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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #67942 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/67942)
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-The Project Gutenberg eBook of USDA, Bulletin No. 1. (N.S.) The honey
-bee: a manual of instruction in apiculture, by Frank Benton
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
-will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
-using this eBook.
-
-Title: USDA, Bulletin No. 1. (N.S.) The honey bee: a manual of
- instruction in apiculture
-
-Author: Frank Benton
-
-Release Date: April 27, 2022 [eBook #67942]
-
-Language: English
-
-Produced by: Tom Cosmas produced from materials generously made
- available at The Internet Archive and placed in the Public
- Domain.
-
-*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK USDA, BULLETIN NO. 1. (N.S.)
-THE HONEY BEE: A MANUAL OF INSTRUCTION IN APICULTURE ***
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber Note
-
-Text emphasis denoted by _Italics_ and =Bold=.
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: Bull. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Agriculture.
-
- Frontispiece.
-
- An Apiary in Maryland.]
-
-
-
-
- Bulletin No. 1. New Series. (Third Edition.)
-
- U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.
-
- DIVISION OF ENTOMOLOGY.
-
-
-
- THE HONEY BEE:
-
- A MANUAL OF
-
- INSTRUCTION IN APICULTURE
-
-
- BY
-
- FRANK BENTON, M. S.,
-
- ASSISTANT ENTOMOLOGIST.
-
- [Illustration]
-
-
- WASHINGTON:
-
- GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE.
-
- 1899.
-
-
-
-
- LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL
-
-
- U. S. Department of Agriculture,
-
- Division of Entomology,
- _Washington, D. C, May 27, 1899_.
-
-Sir: I have the honor to transmit herewith for republication a manual
-entitled, The Honey Bee: A Manual of Instruction in Apiculture, by
-Mr. Frank Benton, who has been in charge of the apiarian work of
-this Division for several years. The constant demand for information
-concerning bee culture for a long time indicated a need for such a
-public manual, and the work was begun and nearly completed under the
-direction of my predecessor, Dr. G. V. Riley. The manuscript was
-submitted September 20, 1895, and the edition of 1,000 copies was soon
-exhausted. In April, 1896, Congress ordered a reprint of 20,000 copies,
-in which some corrections and additions were made by the author. He has
-also taken advantage of the reprint of another (the third) edition to
-make some slight additional changes.
-
-The apiarian industry in the United States is practically a development
-of the last forty years, although isolated individuals were engaged in
-this work long prior to that time. The importance of the industry at
-the present day is not generally realized, and the following figures
-will probably be surprising to many well-informed individuals:
-
- Apiarian societies in the United States 110
- Apiarian journals 8
- Steam factories for the manufacture of beehives and apiarian
- implements 15
- Honey produced in the United States in 1869 (according to
- United States Census Report) pounds 14,702,815
- Honey produced in the United States in 1889 (according to
- United States Census Report) pounds 63,894,186
- Persons engaged in the culture of bees (estimated) 300,000
- Honey and wax produced, at wholesale rates (Eleventh Census) $7,000,000
- Mr. Benton's estimate of the present annual value of
- apiarian products $20,000,000
-As supplementary to these figures it may be stated that in addition
-to the 15 steam-power factories there is a very largo number of smaller
-factories, using mainly hand and horse power, which are engaged in the
-production of supplies, such as hives, smokers, honey extractors, sections,
-comb foundation, and other apiarian apparatus. It is estimated
-by Mr. Benton that the present existing flora of the United States
-could undoubtedly support, with the same average profit, ten times the
-number of colonies of bees it now supports. This branch of agricultural
-industry does not impoverish the soil in the least, but, on the
-contrary, results in better seed and fruit crops. The total money gain
-to the country from the prosecution of this industry would undoubtedly
-be placed at several times the amount given in the table above
-were we only able to estimate in dollars and cents the result of the
-work of bees in cross fertilizing the blossoms of fruit crops. In support
-of this it is only necessary to refer to the fact that recent investigations
-by another division of this Department have shown that
-certain varieties of pear are nearly or quite sterile unless bees bring
-pollen from other distinct varieties for their complete cross fertilization.
-I respectfully recommend the publication of this manual as No. 1 of
-the new series of bulletins of this Division.
-
- Respectfully, L. O. Howard,
- _Entomologist_.
- Hon. James Wilson,
- _Secretary of Agriculture_.
-
-
-
-
- PREFACE.
-
-
-This treatise is designed to make the practical management of an apiary
-plain to those whose acquaintance with the subject is limited, and to
-direct such as may find in it a pleasant and profitable occupation to
-a system of management which may be followed on an extensive scale
-with the certainty of fair remuneration for the labor and capital
-required. With this object in view the author has deemed it best to
-treat the natural history of the bee but briefly, and also to give
-little space to matters which are in question, or to different methods
-of accomplishing given results, or to such as are only adapted to a
-limited portion of the country, but rather to explain one settled way
-widely applicable and which will lead to success. The methods advised
-here are such as the author has found practical during an extended
-experience, yet in regard to numerous details many works--both foreign
-and American--have been consulted, none more freely than Langstroth on
-the Honey Bee, revised by Chas. Dadant & Son, and Bees and Bee Keeping,
-by Prof. F. R. Cheshire.
-
-Many of the illustrations were specially prepared for this bulletin.
-Some have been taken from publications of the Department of
-Agriculture. These include some of the smaller illustrations of
-honey-producing plants and also Plates III to X, which are from reports
-of the Botanist of the Department. Plates II and XI, and figures 5, 6,
-8, 44, 50, 51, and 76 are copied from Cheshire; figs. 08 and 69 from
-Simmins. The Department is also under obligations to the A. I. Root
-Company, to Chas. Dadant & Son, T. F. Bingham, Hayek Bros., Tan Allen &
-Williams, and Dr. T. L. Tinker, for electrotypes.
-
- Frank Benton.
-
- Washington, D. C.
-
-
-
-
- CONTENTS.
-
-
- Page.
- Chapter I.--Classification of the honey bee 11
- The different species and races 11
- Common East Indian honey bee, _Apis indica_ 12
- Tiny East Indian honey bee, _Apis florea_ 13
- Giant East Indian honey bee, _Apis dorsata_ 13
- Common hive or honey bee, _Apis mellifera_ 15
- Cyprians 15
- Italians 16
- Carniolans 17
- German, common black or brown bees 18
-
- Chapter II.--Kinds of bees composing a colony Bee
- products and description of combs--Development of brood 19
- Kinds of bees in a colony 19
- Bee products and organs used in their preparation 21
- Nectar and honey 22
- Propolis 24
- Bee poison and the sting 24
- Water 25
- Silk 25
- Wax 25
- Combs 26
- Development of brood 28
- The worker 29
- The drone 30
-
- Chapter III.--Quieting and manipulating bees 31
-
- Chapter IV. Establishing an apiary: Time--Selecting hives
- of bees--Moving bees Selection of site 35
- Selection of stocks 35
- Moving bees 37
- Selection of site 38
-
- Chapter V.--Hives and implements 40
- Hives 40
- Implements 47
- Bee smokers 47
- Veils 48
- Honey extractors and honey knives 49
- Wax extractors 50
- Queen introducing-cages 50
- Bee feeders 51
- Section folders 52
- Bee escapes 52
- Foundation fasteners 52
- Comb-foundation machines 54
-
- Chapter VI.--Bee pasturage 56
- Cultivation of honey plants 59
- Bees as cross fertilizers 62
- Honey and pollen producing plants 64
-
- Chapter VII.--Spring manipulation 69
- Transferring 71
- Queenlessness in spring 74
-
- Chapter VIII.--Securing surplus honey and wax 75
- Extracted honey 75
- Comb honey 79
- Putting on sections 81
- Production of wax 84
-
- Chapter IX.--Rearing and introducing queens 87
- Mailing queens 92
- Introducing queens 93
-
- Chapter X.--Increase of colonies 95
- Natural swarming 95
- Clipping queens 97
- Automatic hivers 98
- Prevention of after-swarming 98
- Artificial increase 99
- Dividing 100
- Driving or brushing 100
- The nucleus system 101
- Prevention of swarming 101
- Dequeening 102
- Requeening 102
- Space near entrances 103
- Langdon non-swarming device 104
- Selection in breeding 105
-
- Chapter XI.--Wintering bees 106
- Outdoor wintering 109
- Indoor wintering 111
-
- Chapter XII.--Diseases and enemies of bees 112
- Diarrhea and dysentery 112
- Foul brood 112
- The wax moth 113
- Braula or bee louse 115
- Other enemies 115
- Robber flies, dragon flies, etc. 115
- Ants and wasps 115
- Spiders 116
- Toads and lizards 116
- Birds 116
- Mammals 116
- Robber bees 116
- Laying workers 117
-
- Brief list of books and journals relating to apiculture 118
-
-
- ILLUSTRATIONS.
-
-
- PLATES.
-
- Page.
- An apiary in Maryland Frontispiece.
-
- Plate I. Honey bees 16
- II. Digestive system of bee 22
- III. Alfalfa (_Medicago saliva_) 64
- IV. Esparcet or sainfoin (_Onobrychis sativa_) 64
- V. Sweet clover or melilot (_Melilotus alba_) 64
- VI. Acacia (_Acacia constricta_) 64
- VII. Mesquite (_Prosopis juliflora_) 64
- VIII. Blue weed or viper's bugloss (_Echium vulgare_) 64
- IX. Crimson clover (_Trifolium incarnatum_) 64
- X. Alsike clover (_Trifolium hybridum_) 64
- XI. _Bacillus alvei_ 112
-
- TEXT FIGURES.
-
- Fig. 1. Worker cells of common East Indian honey bee
- (_Apis indica_) 12
- 2. Worker cells of tiny East Indian honey bee
- (_Apis florea_) 13
- 3. Comb of tiny East Indian honeybee (_Apis florea_) 14
- 4. Worker cells of common honey bee (_Apis mellifera_) 15
- 5. Ovaries of queen and workers 19
- 6. Heads of queen and drone 20
- 7. Modifications of the legs of different bees 21
- 8. Head and tongue of _Apis mellifera_ worker 22
- 9. Wax disks of social bees 26
- 10. Comb building, side of hive removed 27
- 11. Cross section of brood apartment 29
- 12. Use of veil and bee smoker 31
- 13. Manipulation removing comb from hive 32
- 14. Manipulation tilting to bring reverse side of comb
- to view 33
- 15. Manipulation reverse side of comb brought to view 33
- 16. Manipulation examining reverse side of comb 33
- 17. Quinby closed-end frames 34
- 18. Box hive prepared for transportation 37
- 19. Frame hive prepared for transportation 37
- 20. An apiary in Florida 38
- 21. An apiary in California 39
- 22. Ancient Greek movable comb hive 41
- 23. Dadant-Quinby form of Langstroth hive with cap and
- gable roof 41
- 24. Langstroth frame showing construction 42
- 25. Form in which to nail frames 42
- 26. Lock-joint chaff hive 43
- 27. Manner of nailing hives 43
- 28. Section of improved tin frame-rest 44
- 29. The Langstroth hive (Dadant-Quinby form), cross
- section showing construction 45
- 30. The Nonpareil hive 46
- 31. Dadant-Quinby form of Langstroth hive open 46
- 32. The Bingham bee smoker 48
- 33. Automatic reversible honey extractor 49
- 34. Quinby uncapping knife 49
- 35. Bingham & Hetherington uncapping knife 49
- 36. Excelsior wax extractor 50
- 37. Simplicity feeder 51
- 38. Fruit-jar bee feeder, bottom of feeding stage and
- perforated cap shown separately 51
- 39. The Porter spring bee escape 52
- 40. Daisy foundation fastener 53
- 41. Fastening starter of comb foundation in frame 53
- 42. Spur wire-embedder 54
- 43. Comb-foundation machine 55
- 44. Willow herb (_Epilobium angustifolium_) 57
- 45. Wagner's flat pea (_Lathyrus sylvestris wagneri_) 59
- 46. Dwarf Essex or winter rape (_Brassica napus_) 60
- 47. Summer or bird rape (_Brassica napus_) 60
- 48. Sacaline or giant knotweed (_Polygonum sachalinense_) 61
- 49. Russian or hairy vetch (_Vicia villosa_) 61
- 50. Mountain laurel (_Kalmia latifolia_) 63
- 51. Apple (_Pyrus malus_) 63
- 52. Heath-like wild aster (_Aster ericoides_) 64
- 53. Transferring drumming the bees from a box hive into
- a frame hive 71
- 54. Transferred comb and inserted queen cell 73
- 55. Uncapping and extracting honey 77
- 56. One-piece "V"-grooved sections 80
- 57. Super with section holders and sections in place 80
- 58. Dadant-Quinby form of Langstroth hive, elevated from
- bottom board and slid back for ventilation in summer 82
- 59. Langstroth hive with combined surplus case and
- shipping crate 83
- 60. Honey shipping cases 83
- 61. Boardman solar wax extractor 85
- 62. Comb showing worker brood and queen cells 88
- 63. Queen cells and worker brood in various stages 89
- 64. The Benton queen cage fur transporting a queen and
- attendants by mail 92
- 65. Caging a queen for mailing 92
- 66. Queen introducing-cage 94
- 67. Hiving a swarm of bees 96
- 68. The Simmins non-swarming system, single-story hive
- with supers 103
- 69. The Simmins non-swarming system, double-story hive
- with supers 103
- 70. Beehives with Langdon non-swarmer attached 104
- 71. Percolator for preparation of winter food 107
- 72. The American straw hive of Hayek Bros 108
- 73. Davis hive with newspapers packed between inner and
- outer cases and brood frames on end for winter 108
- 74. Double-walled hive adapted to outdoor wintering as
- well as summer use below 40 C north latitude in
- United States 109
- 75. An apiary in Vermont winter view 110
- 76. Cheshire anti-robbing entrance 117
-
-
-
-
- MANUAL OF APICULTURE.
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER I.
-
- =CLASSIFICATION OF THE HONEY BEE=
-
-
- THE DIFFERENT SPECIES AND RACES.
-
-A knowledge of the structural peculiarities and the life history
-of bees will aid anyone who essays to manage them for profit in
-determining more accurately what conditions are necessary to their
-greatest welfare. It is not to be understood that such knowledge will
-take the place of an acquaintance with those conditions under which
-actual practice has shown that bees thrive, but that it forms a good
-basis for an understanding of whatever practice has found best in the
-management of these industrious and profitable insects. It will also
-assist in pointing out in what way practice can be improved.
-
-In a small treatise like the present one, the object of which is to
-give in plain language the information needed by one who engages in
-bee keeping primarily for profit, it is not possible to do more than
-present a mere outline of classification and a few general facts
-regarding structure. The reader who finds them interesting and valuable
-in his work is reminded that the treatment of these matters in more
-extended volumes, such as Langstroth's, Cheshire's, etc., will be found
-far more so.
-
-Singling out from the order Hymenoptera, or membranous-winged insects,
-the family Apidæ, or bee family, several marked types called genera are
-seen to compose it, such as _Apis_ (the hive bee), _Bombus_ (the bumble
-bee), _Xylocopa_ (the carpenter bee), _Megachile_ (the leaf-cutter),
-_Melipona_ (the stingless honey bee of the American tropics), etc. All
-of these are very interesting to study, and each fulfills a purpose
-in the economy of nature; but the plan of these pages can only be
-to consider the first genus, _Apis_, or the hive bee. Incidentally
-it may be mentioned that the plan of introducing the stingless bees
-(_Melipona_) from tropical America has frequently been brought up with
-the expectation of realizing important practical results from it. These
-bees might possibly be kept in the warmer portions of our country, but
-their honey yield is small, not well ripened, and not easily harvested
-in good shape, since the honey cells are of dark wax, like that made
-by our bumble bees, and they are not arranged in regular order, but in
-irregular clumps like those of bumble bees. The writer had a colony
-under observation last year, and experiments have been made with them
-in their native lands as well as in European countries. Of the genus
-_Apis_ the only representative in this country is _mellifera_, although
-several others are natives of Asia and Africa.
-
-
- THE COMMON EAST INDIAN HONEY BEE.
-
- (_Apis indica_ Fab.)
-
-The common bee of southern Asia is kept in very limited numbers and
-with a small degree of profit in earthen jars and sections of hollow
-trees in portions of the British and Dutch East Indies. They are also
-found wild, and build when in this state in hollow trees and in rock
-clefts. Their combs, composed of hexagonal wax cells, are ranged
-parallel to each other like those of _A. mellifera_, but the worker
-brood cells are smaller than those of our ordinary bees, showing 36 to
-the square inch of surface instead of 29, while the comb where worker
-brood is reared, instead of having, like that of _A. mellifera_, a
-thickness of seven-eighths inch, is but five-eighths inch thick. (Fig.
-1.)
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 1.--Worker cells of common East Indian honey bee
-(_Apis indica_); natural size. (Original.)]
-
-_The workers._--The bodies of these, three-eighths inch long when
-empty, measure about one-half inch when dilated with honey. The thorax
-is covered with brownish hair and the shield or crescent between the
-wings is large and yellow. The abdomen is yellow underneath. Above it
-presents a ringed appearance, the anterior part of each segment being
-orange yellow, while the posterior part shows bands of brown of greater
-or less width and covered with whitish-brown hairs; tip black. They are
-nimble on foot and on the wing, and active gatherers.
-
-_The queens._--The queens are large in proportion to their workers and
-are quite prolific; color, leather or dark coppery.
-
-_The drones._--These are only slightly larger than the workers; color,
-jet-like blue black, with no yellow, their strong wings showing
-changing hues like those of wasps.
-
-Manipulations with colonies of these bees are easy to perform if smoke
-be used, and though they are more excitable than our common hive bees,
-this peculiarity does not lead them to sting more, but seems rather to
-proceed from fear. The sting is also less severe.
-
-Under the rude methods thus far employed in the management of this bee
-no great yields of honey are obtained, some 10 or 12 pounds having been
-the most reported from a single hive. It is quite probable that if
-imported into this country it would do more. These bees would no doubt
-visit many small flowers not frequented by the hive bees we now have,
-and whose nectar is therefore wasted, but very likely they might not
-withstand the severe winters of the North unless furnished with such
-extra protection as would be afforded by quite warm cellars or special
-repositories.
-
-
- THE TINY EAST INDIAN HONEY BEE.
-
- (_Apis florea_ Fab.)
-
-This bee, also a native of East India, is the smallest known species of
-the genus. It builds in the open air, attaching a single comb to a twig
-of a shrub or small tree. This comb is only about the size of a man's
-hand and is exceedingly delicate, there being on each side 100 worker
-cells to the square inch of surface (figs. 2 and 3). The workers, more
-slender than house flies, though longer bodied, are blue-black in
-color, with the anterior third of the abdomen bright orange. Colonies
-of these bees accumulate so little surplus honey as to give no hope
-that their cultivation would be profitable.
-
-[Illustration: Fig 2.--Worker cells of tiny East Indian honey bee
-(_Apis florea_); natural size. (Original).]
-
-
- THE GIANT EAST INDIAN HONEY BEE.
-
- (_Apis dorsata_ Fab.)
-
-This large bee (Plate I, figs. 2 and 3), which might not be
-inappropriately styled the Giant East Indian bee, has its home also
-in the far East--both on the continent of Asia and the adjacent
-islands. There are probably several varieties, more or less marked, of
-this species, and very likely _Apis zonata_ Guér. of the Philippine
-Islands, reported to be even larger than _A. dorsata_, will prove on
-further investigation to be only a variety of the latter. All the
-varieties of these bees build huge combs of very pure wax--often 5
-to 6 feet in length and 3 to 4 feet in width, which they attach to
-overhanging ledges of rocks or to large limbs of lofty trees in the
-primitive forests or jungles. When attached to limbs of trees they
-are built singly and present much the same appearance as those of the
-tiny East Indian bee, shown in the accompanying figure (fig. 3). The
-Giant bee, however, quite in contradistinction to the other species of
-Apis mentioned here, does not construct larger cells in which to rear
-drones, these and the workers being produced in cells of the same size.
-Of these bees--long a sort of a myth to the bee keepers of America and
-Europe--strange stories have been told. It has been stated that they
-build their combs horizontally, after the manner of paper-making wasps;
-that they are so given to wandering as to make it impossible to keep
-them in hives, and that their ferocity renders them objects greatly
-to be dreaded. The first real information regarding these points was
-given by the author, lb 4 visited India in 1880-81 for the purpose
-of obtaining colonies of _Apis dorsata_. These were procured in the
-jungles, cutting the combs from their original attachments, and it was
-thus ascertained that (as might have been expected in the case of any
-species of Apis), their combs are always built perpendicularly; also
-that the colonies placed in frame hives and permitted to fly freely
-did not desert these habitations and that, far from being ferocious,
-these colonies were easily handled by proper precautions, without even
-the use of smoke. It was also proved by the quantity of honey and wax
-present that they are good gatherers. The execution at that time of the
-plan of bringing these bees to the United States was prevented only by
-severe illness contracted in India.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 3.--Comb of tiny East Indian honey bee (_Apis
-florea_) one-third natural sized. (Original.)]
-
-These large bees would doubtless be able to get honey from flowers
-whose nectaries are located out of reach of ordinary bees, notably
-those of the red clover, now visited chiefly by bumble bees and which
-it is thought the East Indian bees might pollinate and cause to produce
-seed more abundantly. Even if no further utilizable, they might prove
-an important factor in the production in the Southern States of large
-quantities of excellent beeswax, now such an expensive article. Should
-these bees and the common East Indian bee (_Apis indica_), previously
-referred to, visit in the main only such flowers as are not adapted
-to our hive bees, their introduction, wherever it could be made
-successful, would, without decreasing the yield from our hive bees, add
-materially to the honey and wax production of the country. Theoretical
-conclusions as to the results of such an introduction can not be of
-much account unless based upon an intimate acquaintance with the nature
-and habits of the bees to be introduced. Enough is known of the small
-bee to remove all doubt regarding the possibility of its successful
-introduction, and it is also probable that the large one would prove
-valuable. In neither case does there appear any possibility that evil
-results might follow their introduction. There are also numerous other
-varieties or species of bees in Africa and Asia about which no more or
-even less is known, but to investigate them fully will require much
-time and considerable expense. It is a subject, however, that should
-receive careful consideration because of the possible benefits to
-apiculture and the wider beneficial effects on agriculture.
-
-
- THE COMMON HIVE OR HONEY BEE.
-
- (_Apis mellifera_ Linn.)
-
-Besides the common brown or German bee imported from Europe to this
-country some time in the seventeenth century and now widely spread from
-the Atlantic to the Pacific, several other races have been brought
-here--the Italian in 1860, and later the Egyptian, the Cyprian, the
-Syrian, the Palestine, the Carniolan (Plate I, figs. 1, 4, and 5), and
-the Tunisian. Of these the brown or German, the Italian, and, in a few
-apiaries, the Carniolan bees are probably the only races existing pure
-in the United States, the others having become more or less hybridized
-with the brown race or among themselves or their cultivation having
-been discontinued. It should also be remarked that so few have kept
-their Carniolans pure that purchasers who wish this race should use
-caution in their selection or else import their own breeding queens.
-There are many breeders of Italians from whom good stock can be
-obtained. Egyptian bees were tried some thirty years ago, but only
-to a very limited extent, and, as has been the case with Syrians and
-Palestines imported in 1880, and whose test was more prolonged and
-general, they were condemned as inferior in temper and wintering
-qualities to the races of bees already here, it not being thought that
-these points of inferiority were sufficiently balanced by their greater
-prolificness and their greater energy in honey collecting.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 4.--Worker cells of common honey bee (_Apis
-mellifera_); natural size. (Original.)]
-
-The Tunisians, for similar reasons and also because they are great
-collectors of propolis, never became popular, although a persistent
-attempt was made a few years since to create sale for them under the
-new name of "Punic bees," the undesirable qualities of the race having
-previously been made known, under the original name, by the author,
-who had tested them carefully for several years--a part of the time in
-Tunis.
-
-_Cyprians._--Bees of the race native to the Island of Cyprus have
-produced the largest yield of honey on record from a single colony
-in this country, 1,000 pounds in one season. Everyone who has fairly
-tested them admits their wonderful honey-gathering powers and their
-persevering courage in their labors even when the flowers are secreting
-honey but scantily. They winter well and defend their hives against
-robber bees and other enemies with greater energy than any other known
-race. When storing honey Cyprians till the cells quite fall before
-sealing, and thus the capping rests against the honey, presenting a
-semitransparent or "watery" appearance, which is undesirable. They
-are extremely sensitive, hence easily angered by rough or bungling
-manipulators, and when once thoroughly aroused are very energetic
-in the use of their stings. These faults have caused a very general
-rejection of Cyprians, especially by those who produce comb honey.
-Even the producers of extracted honey do not seem to have learned how
-to manipulate Cyprians easily and without the use of much smoke, nor
-how much more rapidly they could free their extracting combs from
-Cyprian bees than from Italians. Nor have they seemed to count as of
-much importance the fact that Cyprians, unlike Italians and German or
-common bees, do not volunteer an attack when undisturbed; that they
-will, in fact, let one pass and repass their hives quite unmolested
-and even under such circumstances as would call forth a vigorous and
-very disagreeable protest from the other races just mentioned. It is
-to be regretted that there has been such a widespread rejection of a
-race having such important and well-established excellent qualities.
-It would be easier by selection in breeding to reduce the faults of
-this race than to bring any other cultivated race to their equal in the
-other desirable points.
-
-Cyprians are smaller-bodied and more slender than bees of European
-races. The abdomen is also more pointed and shows, when the bees are
-purely bred, three light orange bands on the three segments nearest the
-thorax. The underside of the abdomen is even lighter orange colored
-nearly or quite to the tip. The postscutellum--the small lunule-like
-prominence on the thorax between the bases of the wings--is likewise
-orange colored instead of dull, as in European races. The rest of
-the thorax is covered with a russet-brown pubescence. Cyprians are
-the yellowest of the original races, and their bright colors and
-symmetrical forms render them attractive objects.
-
-_Italians._--Through the agency of the United States Department of
-Agriculture bees of this race were introduced direct from Italy in
-1860. There had previously been repeated individual efforts to secure
-Italians bred in Germany, where the race had been introduced some years
-earlier, and a small number of queens had been landed here alive in
-the autumn of 1859, but most of these died the following winter and
-the few remaining alive seem not to have been multiplied as rapidly
-as those obtained in Italy by a purchasing agent of the Department of
-Agriculture and landed here early in 1860. Their good qualities were
-soon appreciated, and they had become well established and widely
-spread long before the Cyprians, imported twenty years later. For
-this reason, together with the fact that they cap their surplus combs
-whiter than some other races and because less skill is required in
-subduing and handling Italians, they have retained their popularity
-over bees which, though better honey gatherers, are more nervous under
-manipulation. Their golden-yellow color has also proved so attractive
-to many that the good qualities of more somber-hued races--gentler,
-better winterers, and better comb builders--have not received due
-consideration. Italians are, however, certainly preferable to the
-common brown or black bees, for they show greater energy in gathering
-honey and in the defense of their hives against moth larvæ and robber
-bees, while at the same time they are gentler under manipulation than
-the blacks, though they do not winter as well in severe climates.
-
-
- Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.
-
- Plate I.
-
- [Illustration]
-
- Honey Bees.
-
- 1. Worker, Carniolan variety of _Apis mellifera_--twice natural size.
- 2. Giant honey bee of East India (_Apis dorsata_), worker twice
- natural size.
- 3. Giant honey bee of East India (_Apis dorsata_), drone twice
- natural size.
- 4. Drone, Carniolan variety of _Apis mellifera_ twice natural size.
- 5. Queen, Carniolan variety of _Apis mellifera_--twice natural size.
-
-
-Italian workers nearly equal Garniolans in size, and show across
-the abdomen when the latter is distended with honey not less than
-three yellow bands, which approach more or less a reddish or dark
-leathery color. By selection in some instances, and in others by the
-introduction of Cyprian blood, Italians and Italian hybrids have
-recently been bred which show four or five yellow bands or which are
-even yellow to the tip of the abdomen. They are certainly pleasing to
-the eye, and in case due heed has been given to the vigor and working
-qualities of the stock selected when establishing the strain, no
-valid objection can be brought against them except the tendency they
-have to revert to the original type of Italians. This is due to the
-comparatively short time they have been bred, and with each season's
-selection will of course grow less.
-
-_Carniolans._--These, the gray bees from the elevated Alpine province
-of Carniola, Austria, are the gentlest of all races, and as, besides
-their other good qualities, they winter the best of any, it is not
-surprising to see that they have steadily grown in favor. Their sealed
-combs are exceedingly white, as they do not fill the cells so full
-that the honey touches the capping, and they gather little propolis,
-qualities highly appreciated by the producer of comb honey. They
-are quite prolific, and if kept in small hives, such as have been
-popularized of late in the United States, are somewhat more inclined
-to swarm than the other races introduced here. This tendency becomes
-more pronounced when they are taken into a country whose summers are
-hot, like ours, and their hives are not well shaded, as they have been
-bred for centuries, with only slight introduction of outside blood,
-in a climate where the summers are short and cool. Moreover, the
-practice in Carniola is to place the long, shallow hives used almost
-exclusively there, in beehouses and side by side, one above the other,
-with intervening air spaces, so that at most only the front ends are
-exposed to the sun. This management long continued has doubtless tended
-to develop and fix more or less permanently in this race certain
-characteristics which should be taken into account in their management
-elsewhere. With these precautions they do well in all parts of the
-United States. (See Plate I, figs. 1, 4, and 5.)
-
-The Carniolan worker is readily recognized by its large form, less
-pointed abdomen, and general ashy gray coat, the abdominal segments
-especially presenting a ringed appearance on account of silvery white
-hairs which cover the posterior half of each of these segments. By
-crossing Carniolans with Italians or with Cyprians a yellow type with
-silvery rings is produced, and by continued selection in breeding the
-gentle disposition of the Carniolans can be secured with the greater
-honey-gathering powers of Cyprians should these be employed in forming
-the new strain.
-
-_German, common black, or brown bees._--These bees are found commonly
-throughout our country from ocean to ocean, both wild and domesticated.
-Exactly when they were introduced from Europe is not known, but
-considerable evidence exists which shows that there were no hive bees
-(_Apis mellifera_) in this country for some time after the first
-colonies were established; also, it was not until near the close of
-the last century that they reached the Mississippi, and less than half
-a century has passed since the first were successfully landed on the
-Pacific Coast.
-
-Many bee keepers, having more attractively colored and frequently
-better bees, are inclined to consider this race as possessing hardly
-any redeeming qualities, or at least to underrate these because
-accompanied by undesirable traits. While it is true that they have
-some serious faults, the latter are not so great as those of some
-other races. They have become thoroughly acclimated since their first
-importation, over two centuries ago, and besides possessing good
-wintering and comb-building qualities, they will, when the flow of
-honey is quite abundant, generally equal Italians in gathering. But
-the disposition which bees of this race have of flying toward one
-who approaches the apiary and stinging him, even though the hives
-have not been molested, their way of running excitedly over the combs
-and dropping in bunches when they are handled, besides stinging the
-backs of the operator's hands, unless the whole colony has first been
-thoroughly subdued and the bees induced to gorge themselves with honey,
-or are constantly deluged with smoke, are very annoying to the novice
-who undertakes to perform necessary manipulations with them, and may
-even so discourage and daunt him as to cause the neglect of work of
-great importance to the welfare of the colony. The easy discouragement
-of bees of this race when a sudden check in the flow of honey occurs is
-also a peculiarity which does not commend them. These things, tending
-to reduce profits, often dampen the beginner's enthusiasm before
-he has acquired the knowledge and skill necessary to make the work
-genuinely successful. He had therefore better choose either Italians
-or Carniolans, and use as breeders only queens that are known to have
-mated purely.
-
-The common race shows considerable variation in its markings and
-qualities. The workers have a dull, rusty brown color, especially
-about the thorax. Some strains are however much darker than others and
-in general the drones are darker than the workers. In size workers,
-drones, and queens of this race are intermediate between the other
-European races and those from the Orient. The same care and skill
-applied in the selection of breeding stock would result in as great
-improvement in this as in any of the more attractive yellow races.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 5.--Ovaries of queen and workers: A, abdomen of
-queen--under side (magnified eight times); P, petiole; O, O, ovaries;
-_hs_, position filled by honey sac; _ds_, position through which
-digestive system passes; _od_, oviduct; _co.d_, common oviduct; E,
-egg-passing oviduct; _s_, spermatheca; _i_, intestine; _po_, poison
-bag; _p.g_, poison gland; _st_, sting; _p_, palpi. B, rudimentary
-ovaries of ordinary worker; _sp_, rudimentary spermatheca. C, partially
-developed ovaries of fertile worker; _sp_, rudimentary spermatheca.
-(From Cheshire.)]
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER II.
-
- =KINDS OF BEES COMPOSING A COLONY--BEE PRODUCTS AND
- DESCRIPTION OF COMBS--DEVELOPMENT OF BROOD.=
-
-
- KINDS OF BEES IN A COLONY.
-
-Each colony of bees in good condition at the opening of the season
-contains a laying queen and some 30,000 to 40,000 worker bees, or six
-to eight quarts by measurement. Besides this there should be four,
-five, or even more combs fairly stocked with developing brood, with a
-good supply of honey about it. Drones may also be present, even several
-hundred in number, although it is better to limit their production to
-selected hives, which in the main it is not difficult to accomplish.
-
-Under normal conditions the queen lays all of the eggs which are
-deposited in the hive, being capable of depositing under favorable
-conditions as many as 4,000 in twenty-four hours. Ordinarily she mates
-but once, flying from the hive to meet the drone--the male bee--high
-in the air, when five to nine days old generally, although this time
-varies under different climatic conditions as well as with different
-races. Seminal fluid sufficient to impregnate the greater number of
-eggs she will deposit during the next two or three years (sometimes
-even four or five years) is stored at the time of mating in a sac--the
-spermatheca, opening into the oviduct or egg-passage (fig. 5, _s_).
-The queen seems to be able to control this opening so as to fertilize
-eggs or not as she wills at the time of depositing them. If fertilized
-they develop into workers or queens according to the character of the
-food given, the size and shape of the cell, etc.; if unfertilized,
-into drones. The queen's life may extend over a period of four or five
-years, but three years is quite as long as any queen ought to be kept,
-unless a particularly valuable one for breeding purposes and not easy
-to replace. Indeed, if full advantage be taken of her laying powers it
-will rarely be found profitable to retain a queen longer than two years.
-
-Upon the workers, which are undeveloped females, devolves all the labor
-of gathering honey, pollen, propolis, and bringing water, secreting
-wax, building combs, stopping up crevices in the hive, nursing the
-brood, and defending the hives. To enable them to do all this they are
-furnished with highly specialized organs. These will be more fully
-referred to in connection with the description of the products gathered
-and prepared by the workers.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 6.--A, Head of queen, magnified ten times, showing
-smaller compound eyes at sides, and three ocelli on vertex of head;
-_n_, jaw notch. B, head of drone, magnified ten times, showing larger
-compound eyes at sides, with three ocelli between; _n_, jaw notch.
-(From Cheshire.)]
-
-The drones, aside from contributing somewhat to the general warmth
-of the hive necessary to the development of the brood, seem to have
-no other office but that connected with reproduction. In the wild
-state colonies of bees are widely separated, being located wherever
-the swarms chance to have found hollow trees or rock cavities, hence
-the production of many drones has been provided for, so young queens
-flying out to mate will not run too many risks from bird and insect
-enemies, storms, etc. Mating in the hive would result in too continuous
-in-and-in breeding, producing loss of vigor. As we find it arranged,
-the most vigorous are the most likely to reproduce their species.
-
-At the time of the queen's mating there are in the hive neither eggs
-nor young larvæ from which to rear another queen; thus, should she be
-lost, no more fertilized eggs would be deposited, and the old workers
-gradually dying off without being replaced by young ones, the colony
-would become extinct in the course of a few months at most, or meet a
-speedier fate through intruders, such as wax-moth larvæ, robber bees,
-wasps, etc., which its weakness would prevent its repelling longer; or
-cold is very likely to finish such a decimated colony, especially as
-the bees, because queenless, are uneasy and do not cluster compactly.
-
-The loss of queens while flying out to mate is evidently one of the
-provisions in nature to prevent bees from too great multiplication, for
-were there no such checks they would soon become a pest in the land. On
-the other hand, the risk to the queen is not uselessly increased, for
-she mates but once during her life.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 7.--Modifications of the legs of different bees:
-A, _Apis_: _a_, wax pincer and outer view of hind leg; _b_, inner
-aspect of wax pincer and leg; _c_, compound hairs holding grains of
-pollen; _d_, anterior leg, showing antenna cleaner; _e_, spur on tibia
-of middle leg. B, _Melipona:_ _f_, peculiar group of spines at apex of
-tibia of hind leg; _g_, inner aspect of wax pincer and first joint of
-tarsus. C, _Bombus_: _h_, wax pincer; _i_, inner view of same and first
-joint of tarsus--all enlarged. (From Insect Life.)]
-
-
- BEE PRODUCTS AND ORGANS USED IN THEIR PREPARATION.
-
-Pollen and honey form the food of honey bees and their developing
-brood. Both of these are plant products which are only modified
-somewhat by the manipulation to which they are subjected by the bees
-and are then stored in waxen cells if not wanted for immediate use.
-Pollen, the fertilizing dust of flowers, is carried home by the bees in
-small pellets held in basket-like depressions on each of the hind legs.
-The hairs covering the whole surface of the bee's body are more or less
-serviceable in enabling the bee to collect pollen, but those on the
-under side of the abdomen are most likely to get well dusted, and the
-rows of hairs, nine in number, known as pollen brushes, located on the
-inner surface of the first tarsal joint (fig. 7, _b_), are then brought
-into use to brush out this pollen. When these brushes are filled with
-pollen the hind legs are crossed during flight and the pollen combed
-out by the spine-like hairs that fringe the posterior margin of the
-tibial joint--that above a in fig. 7. The outer surface of this joint
-is depressed, and this, with the rows of curved hairs on the anterior
-margin and the straighter ones just referred to forms a basket like
-cavity known as the corbiculum or pollen basket, represented by
-the longest joints of the legs, A, B, and C, fig. 7. Into this the
-pollen falls, and with the middle pair of legs is tamped down for
-transportation to the hive. Having arrived there, the bee thrusts its
-hind legs into a cell located as near to the brood nest as may be, and
-loosening the pellets lets them fall into the bottom of the cell. The
-tibial spur (fig. 7, _e_) on each middle leg is, as Professor Cheshire
-has pointed out, probably of use in prying the pellets out. The latter
-are simply dropped into cells and left for some other bee to pack down
-by kneading or pressing with its mandibles. Various colors--yellow,
-brown, red, slate, etc., according to the kinds of flowers from which
-gathered--frequently show in layers in the same cell. Often when partly
-filled with pollen the cell is then filled up with honey and sealed
-more or less hermetically with wax. The bees store the pollen, for
-convenience in feeding, above and at the sides of the brood and as
-near to it as possible, the comb on each side of the brood nest being
-generally well stored with it.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 8.--Head and tongue of Apis mellifera worker
-(magnified twelve times), _a_, Antenna, or feeler; _m_, mandibula, or
-outer jaw; _g_, gum flap, or epipharynx; _mxp_, maxillary palpus; _pg_,
-paraglossa; _mx_, maxilla, or inner jaw; _lp_, labial palpus, _l_,
-ligula, or tongue; _b_, bouton, or spoon of the same. (Reduced from
-Cheshire.)]
-
-
- NECTAR AND HONEY.
-
-The liquid secreted in the nectaries of flowers is usually quite thin,
-containing, when just gathered, a large per centage of water. Bees suck
-or lap it up from such flowers as they can reach with their flexible,
-sucking tongue, 0.25 to 0.28 inch long. (Fig. 8, _l_.) This nectar is
-taken into the honey sac (Plate II, _h.s._) located in the abdomen, for
-transportation to the hive. It is possible that part of the water is
-eliminated by the gatherers before they reach the hive. A Russian bee
-keeper, M. Nassanoff, while dissecting a worker, discovered between
-the fifth and sixth abdominal segments a small canal, to which he
-attributed an excretory function, and Zoubareff, having noticed bees
-ejecting a watery substance while returning from the fields, suggested
-that this gland probably served to separate a portion of the water from
-the nectar, the liquid deposited in the cells appearing to contain less
-of it than that just secreted by the flowers.
-
-
- Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.
-
- Plate II.
-
- [Illustration]
-
- Digestive System of Bee (magnified ten times).
-
- A, Horizontal section of body; _lp_, labial palpus; _mx_,, maxilla:
- _e_, eye; _dv, dv_, dorsal vessel: _v_, ventricles of the same; No.
- 1. No. 2, No. 3, salivary gland systems, 1, 2, 3; _œ_, œsophagus;
- _pro.t_, prothorax; _mesa.t_, mesathorax; _meta.t_, metathorax; _g,
- g_, ganglia of chief nerve chain; _n_, nerves; _hs_, honey sac; _p_,
- petaloid stopper of honey sac or stomach mouth; _c.s_, chyle stomach:
- _bt_, biliary or Malpighian vessels: _si_, small intestine; _l_,
- lamellæ or gland plates of colon; _li_, large intestine.
-
-
-However this maybe, evaporation takes place rapidly in the heat of
-the hive after the nectar or thin honey has been stored, as it is
-temporarily, in open cells. Besides being thin, the nectar has at first
-a raw, rank taste, generally the flavor and odor peculiar to the plant
-from which gathered, and these are frequently far from agreeable. To
-make from this raw product the healthful and delicious table luxury
-which honey constitutes--"fit food for the gods"--is another of the
-functions peculiar to the worker bee. The first step is the stationing
-of workers in lines near the hive entrances. These, by incessant
-buzzing of their wings, drive currents of air into and out of the hive
-and over the comb surfaces. If the hand be held before the entrance
-at such a time a strong current of warm air may be felt coming out.
-The loud buzzing heard at night during the summer time is due to the
-wings of workers engaged chiefly in ripening nectar. Instead of being
-at rest, as many suppose, the busy workers are caring for the last
-lot of gathered nectar and making room for further accessions. This
-may go on far into the night, or even all night, to a greater or less
-extent, the loudness and activity being proportionate to the amount and
-thinness of the liquid. Frequently the ripening honey is removed from
-one set of cells and placed in others. This may be to gain the use of
-certain combs for the queen, or possibly it is merely incidental to
-the manipulation the bees wish to give it. When, finally, the process
-has been completed, it is found that the water content has usually
-been reduced to 10 or 12 per cent, and that the disagreeable odors
-and flavors, probably due to volatile oils, have also been driven off
-in a great measure, if not wholly, by the heat of the hive, largely
-generated by the bees. During the manipulation an antiseptic--formic
-acid--secreted by glands in the head of the bee, and it is also
-possible other glandular secretions, have been added. The finished
-product is stored in waxen cells above and around the brood nest and
-the main cluster of bees, as far from the entrance as it can be and
-still be near to the brood and bees. The work of sealing with waxen
-caps then goes forward rapidly, the covering being more or less porous.
-
-Each kind of honey has its distinctive flavor and aroma, derived, as
-already indicated, mainly from the particular blossoms by which it
-was secreted, but modified and softened by the manipulation given it
-in the hives. When the secretion is abundant in a flower having a
-short or open corolla, hence one from which the bees find it easy to
-obtain the honey, they will confine their visits to that kind if the
-latter is present in sufficient numbers. Thus it is that linden, white
-clover, buckwheat, white sage, mesquite, sourwood, aster, tulip tree,
-mangrove, orange, and other kinds of honey may be harvested separately,
-and each be readily recognizable by its color, flavor, consistency,
-and aroma. When, however, no great honey yielder is present in large
-quantity and the source is miscellaneous, all manner of combinations
-of qualities may exist, introducing great and often agreeable variety.
-Thus the medicinal qualities and the food value of different kinds of
-honey differ as greatly as do their prices on the market.
-
-
- PROPOLIS.
-
-This substance, commonly known as "bee glue," is obtained by the bees
-from the buds and crevices of trees, and is carried to the hives in
-the corbicula or basket-like cavities on the outside of the tibial
-joints of the workers' hind legs, the same as they carry pollen. The
-workers with their mandibles scrape together and bite off the particles
-of propolis, and with the front and middle legs pass them back to the
-baskets, where the middle legs and feet are used to tamp them down. The
-pellets can be readily distinguished from those of pollen, the latter
-being dull and granular in appearance, while the freshly gathered
-propolis is compact and shiny. This resinous material, which becomes
-hard soon after it is gathered, is at first quite sticky, and the bee
-bringing it requires aid in unloading. Another worker takes hold of
-the mass with its jaws, and by united exertion they get it out of the
-pocket, though often by piecemeal and in long threads. It is not stored
-in cells, but is used at once to stop up crevices in the hives and to
-varnish the whole interior surface, as well as to glue movable portions
-fast, also in strengthening the combs at their attachments, and if the
-latter are designed exclusively for honey, and especially if not filled
-at once, the edges of their completed cells receive a thin coating of
-propolis, which adds considerably to their strength. The bees often
-make the flight hole smaller by filling a part of it with masses of
-propolis, sometimes mixed with old wax. Carniolans gather the least
-and Tunisians the most propolis of any of the different races. On this
-account the former are better suited than the latter to the production
-of fancy white comb honey.
-
-
- BEE POISON AND THE STING.
-
-The worker and the queen are supplied with another organ which is of
-great importance to them, namely, the sting; for without this the
-hard-earned stores of the hive would soon be a prey to all manner of
-marauders, and the queen would be deprived of an organ of occasional
-use to her in dispatching rivals, and of daily use to her during the
-working season in the deposition of eggs. The darts work independently
-and alternately, and are connected at the base with the poison sac,
-without whose powerful contents such a tiny weapon would be wholly
-ineffective. Poison glands pour an acid secretion--largely formic
-acid--into this sac, whence it is conveyed to the tip of the sting
-along the groove or canal formed by the junction of the sheath and the
-darts. The sting being but an ovipositor modified also another purpose
-in addition to oviposition, in the perfect female (the queen) its main
-use is in placing the eggs in their proper position in the bottoms of
-the cells.
-
-Formic acid is known to have considerable antiseptic properties.
-Chemical tests show its presence in well-ripened honey, but not in
-freshly gathered nectar. The natural conclusion is that it has been
-added by the bees to assist in the preservation of the honey. In what
-manner it is supplied has frequently been questioned. Tests applied to
-the blood of the bee show its presence there, and the secretions of the
-head glands show still larger quantities. It is therefore reasonable
-to suppose that these glands, as well as the poison glands themselves
-secrete formic acid, and that the honey receives its portion from the
-former, the head glands, upon being disgorged from the honey-sac or
-during the manipulation to which it is subjected in the hive.
-
-
- WATER.
-
-During cold or cool weather much condensation of moisture takes place
-in wooden hives as these are usually arranged. The water, collecting in
-drops on the interior walls of the hive and on the cold, sealed honey,
-often trickles down over the cluster of bees, to their great injury. It
-has been claimed that when brood rearing begins this condensed moisture
-will be utilized in the preparation of brood food. Very possibly it
-may, yet its use is probably detrimental, since it is charged with
-waste products of the hive--those of respiration, etc. In its absence
-the water contained in the honey, if the latter has not granulated,
-seems to be sufficient. Later, however, when no condensation takes
-place in the hive and the greater number of developing larvæ require
-considerable supplies of water in their food, special trips are made to
-brooks and pools for it, and dew is often gathered from leaves.
-
-
- SILK.
-
-The larval bee produces a small amount of silk from glands in its
-head. The pupal cell is partially lined with this. Later, as the bee
-develops, there being no further use for the glands, they become
-atrophied.
-
-
- WAX.
-
-The light colored pellets which are carried into the hive on the hind
-legs of the workers, and which have been described as pollen, are often
-mistaken for wax. The fact is, wax is not gathered in the form in which
-we see it, except in rare instances, when, bits of comb having been
-left about, small quantities will be loaded up and taken in as pellets
-on the legs. Ordinarily it comes into the hive in the shape of honey
-and is transformed by the workers within their own bodies into wax.
-This production is wholly confined to the workers, for although the
-queen has wax plates 011 the underside of the abdomen and wax glands
-beneath them, yet both are less developed than in the workers and
-are never used. The wax plates of the worker overlying the secreting
-glands are well shown in fig. 9, those of the queen and of the related
-genera, _Bombus_ and _Melipona_, being shown for comparison. During wax
-secretion, that is, when combs are being built or honey cells sealed
-over, a high temperature is maintained in the hive, and many workers
-may be seen to have small scales of wax protruding from between the
-segments of the abdomen on the underside. The molds or plates, eight
-in number, in which the scales appear are concealed by the overlapping
-of the abdominal segments, but when exposed to view (fig. 9, _a_) are
-seen to be five-sided depressions lined with a transparent membrane.
-The wax glands themselves are beneath this membrane, and through it the
-wax comes in a liquid form. As the scales harden they are pushed out by
-the addition of wax beneath. The bees pluck them out with neat pincers
-(fig. 7, _a_ and _b_) formed by the articulation of the hind tibiæ
-with the adjacent tarsal joints, pass them forward to the mandibles,
-and mold them into the shape of hexagonal cells, meanwhile warming and
-moistening them with the secretions of the head glands to render the
-wax more pliable.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 9.--Wax disks of social bees: _a_, Apis mellifera
-worker; _b_. A. mellifera queen; _c_, Melipona worker; _d_, Bombus
-worker--all enlarged. (From Insect Life.)]
-
-
- COMBS.
-
-Wax is fashioned by the workers into cells of various sizes and shapes,
-according to the use to be made of them. The most regular in shape and
-size are the cells designed for brood (fig. 4). These combs in which
-workers are bred show nearly 29 cells on a square inch of surface, the
-combs being seven-eighths inch thick and the cells generally quite
-regular hexagons in outline. Drone cells are larger, there being but
-18 of them to the square inch of surface, and the comb is 1¼ inches
-thick. The cells of combs designed only for honey are frequently more
-irregular in shape, generally curve upward somewhat, and are often
-deepened as the honey is stored in them, so that these combs sometimes
-reach a thickness of 2 or 3 inches.
-
-The cells in which queens are bred bear in size and shape some
-resemblance to a ground or pea nut. They are often irregular in form,
-being sometimes curved, or short and thick, according to the space
-below their point of attachment, which is most frequently the lower
-edge or the side edge of a comb, or sometimes a mere projection or
-angularity in the general surface of a comb. Queen cells open downward
-instead of being built horizontally like drone and worker cells (figs.
-62 and 63).
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 10.--Comb building--side of hive removed.
-(Original.)]
-
-Into the material used in constructing brood combs bees often
-incorporate bits of wax and fiber-like gnawings of cocoons from
-old combs in which brood has been reared, and if given cappings or
-trimmings of combs they will work them all over and utilize most of
-the material. Also when the bees have abundant supplies of pollen much
-of this is incorporated into the material of brood combs, thus saving
-the costlier substance--wax. Such combs show at once by their brownish
-or straw color, even when first constructed, that they are not made of
-wax alone. It will readily be seen from the above that the quantity
-of honey consumed by the bees in producing a pound of comb must vary
-greatly, for if the comb is designed for surplus honey it will be made
-of newly secreted wax, while if for brood other material will, as
-just stated, replace a portion of the wax. The amount of honey coming
-in varies from day to day, and it is difficult to estimate how much
-is consumed in feeding and keeping warm the brood: moreover, a high
-temperature is required in the hive to facilitate the secretion and
-working of wax, necessitating, of course, extra food consumption when
-the outside temperature is low. Accordingly estimates as to the amount
-of honey required to produce 1 pound of comb range from 5 pounds to 25
-pounds. More accurate experiments are needed in this direction before
-anything positive can be stated. Until then 18 to 20 pounds might be
-looked upon as nearest the correct figure for white surplus combs, and
-half as much for dull straw-colored or brownish combs built for brood
-rearing.
-
-
- DEVELOPMENT OF BROOD.
-
-Ordinarily the winter cluster in a hive of bees occupies the more
-central combs, four or five in number. Near the middle of this
-cluster the queen deposits the first eggs of the season (which are
-fertilized eggs) in the small-sized or worker cells. Under favorable
-circumstances, that is, in a strong colony amply protected against
-inclement weather, this deposition usually occurs in January, though
-in a very mild climate some brood is generally present during every
-month of the year, and the cessation of egg-laying is very short. The
-eggs hatch on the third day after deposition into minute white larvæ,
-to which the workers supply food in abundance. The composition of this
-food has been the subject of much attention and more theorizing. It may
-be considered as pretty certain that during the first three days of the
-life of the larva its food is a secretion from glands located in the
-heads of the adult workers--a sort of bee milk, to which, after the
-third day, honey is added in the case of the worker larvæ, and honey
-and pollen in the case of drone larva?. As this weaning proceeds both
-worker and drone larvæ receive pollen, and in constantly increasing
-proportions, in place of the secretion. But this rich albuminous
-substance is continued to the queen larvæ throughout their whole period
-of feeding; moreover, the quantity of this food supplied to each queen
-larva is apparently super-abundant, for after it ceases to feed quite a
-mass of the food somewhat dried out will be found in the bottom of the
-cell from which a well-developed queen has issued. After assuming the
-pupa form the young queen is attached to this food by means of the tip
-of the abdomen, and it very likely continues for some time to receive
-nourishment from the mass.
-
-The following table shows approximately the time occupied in the
-development of worker, drone, and queen:
-
- +----------+---------+---------+---------+-----------------+
- | | | | | From deposition |
- | | Egg. | Larva. | Pupa. | of egg to imago.|
- +----------+---------+---------+---------+-----------------+
- | | _Days._ | _Days._ | _Days._ | _Days._ |
- | Queen | 3 | 5½ | 7 | 15½ |
- | Worker | 3 | 5 | 13 | 21 |
- | Drone | 3 | 6 | 15 | 24 |
- +----------+---------+---------+---------+-----------------+
-
-The original circles of brood are gradually increased by the deposition
-of eggs in the cells next outside those already occupied, and circles
-are soon begun in the adjoining combs. In this way the space occupied
-by the developing bees is gradually increased, while preserving the
-general spherical shape of the brood nest thus formed, which, however,
-the shape of the hive often modifies somewhat. As already mentioned,
-each circle of brood has rows of pollen cells about it, chiefly above
-and at the sides, and the combs on either side contiguous to the brood
-are usually well packed with pollen. Outside of the pollen most of
-the honey on hand is stored. Thus (fig. 11) a cross section made in
-any direction through the middle of a hive in normal condition at the
-opening of the active season should show this relative arrangement
-of brood, pollen, and honey, which economizes most the heat of the
-hive and the labors of the nurse bees, favoring in this way the rapid
-increase of the population.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 11.--Cross section of brood apartment: _s, s_,
-sides of hive; _t, t_, top-bars of frames; _h, p, l, sb_, combs
-containing (_h_) honey, (_p_) pollen, (_l_) larvæ and eggs, and (_sb_)
-sealed brood. (Original.)]
-
-
- THE WORKER.
-
-The worker larvæ are fed five days, and then the cell is given by the
-adult bees a covering which is quite porous by reason of numerous
-pollen grains incorporated into its mass, this openness of texture
-being necessary to give the developing bee air to breathe. The larva
-strength ens this capping by a loose webwork of silk within, extending
-down the side but slightly and attached at its edges to the last skin
-cast by the molting larva. This skin, extremely delicate and pressed
-closely against the inside of the cell, forms the lining of its sides
-and bottom. In about twelve days after sealing, that is, twenty-one
-days from the time the egg was deposited, the imago, or perfect bee,
-bites its way through the brown covering.
-
-In the course of a couple of days it takes up the work of a nurse, and
-in a week to ten days may appear at the entrance on pleasant days,
-taking, however, but short flights for exercise, as ordinary field work
-is not undertaken until it has passed about two weeks in the care of
-brood. The worker then takes up also wax secretion, if honey is to be
-capped over or combs built, although old bees can and do to a certain
-extent engage in wax production.
-
-
- THE DRONE.
-
-Eggs left unfertilized produce drones and require twenty-four days
-from the time they are deposited until the perfect insect appears.
-They are normally deposited in the larger-sized horizontal cells, and
-when the latter are sealed, the capping is more convex as well as
-lighter-colored than that of worker brood, which is brown and nearly
-flat.
-
-The fact that drones develop from unfertilized eggs is to be noted
-as having an important practical bearing in connection with the
-introduction of new strains of a given race or of new races of bees
-into an apiary. From a single choice home-bred or imported mother,
-young queens of undoubted purity of blood may be reared for all of the
-colonies of the apiary, and since the mating of these young queens
-does not affect their drone progeny, thereafter only drones of the
-desired strain or race and pure in blood will be produced, rendering,
-therefore, the pure mating of future rearings fairly certain if other
-bees are not numerous within a mile or two. Eventually also all of
-the colonies will be changed to the new race and without admixture of
-impure blood, provided always that the young queens be reared from
-mothers of pure blood mated to drones of equal purity.
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER III.
-
- QUIETING AND MANIPULATING BEES.
-
-
-The demeanor of bees toward an individual depends largely upon his
-bearing and treatment of them. Langstroth, in his excellent treatise,
-Langstroth on the Honey Bee (p. 193, revised edition), says:
-
- Let all your motions about your hives be gentle and slow; never crush
- or injure the bees; acquaint yourself fully with the principles of
- management, and you will find you have little more reason to dread
- the sting of a bee than the horns of a favorite cow or the heels of
- your faithful horse.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 12. Use of veil and bee smoker. (Original.)]
-
-Most bee manipulators, however, grow somewhat indifferent to stings,
-since in time they become so inoculated with the poison of the bee that
-the pain of the sting is less severe and the swelling slight. _But to
-avoid the stings is, with some of the races more recently introduced
-into this country, simply a question of care in manipulation and a free
-use of smoke._ It is not meant that the bees should be stupefied with
-smoke, but merely alarmed and subjugated, and whenever they show any
-disposition to act on the offensive recourse is to be had to smoke. It
-is not necessary that the smoke should be from a particular source,
-but that from certain substances, as tobacco, subjugates them more
-quickly, while burning puffball stupefies them for the time. There are
-some objections to these substances which do not apply to wood, either
-partially decayed or sound, and as the latter when in a good smoker
-holds fire best and is very effective, it is advisable to keep a good
-supply at hand. Seasoned hickory or hard maple are best, though beech,
-soft maple, etc., are good. The most improved bellows smokers, when
-supplied with such fuel sawed 5 or C inches long and split into bits a
-half inch or less in size, will burn all day and be ready at any time
-to give a good volume of blue smoke, by which bees of most of the races
-now cultivated in this country are subdued at once.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 13.--Manipulation--removing comb from hive.
-(Original.)]
-
-With Italian or black bees a puff or two of smoke should be given at
-the hive entrance and the cover and honey board, or quilt, removed
-slowly and carefully, smoke being driven in as soon as the least
-opening is made and the volume increased enough to keep down all bees
-as fast as the covering is removed. The smoker may then be placed on
-the windward side of the hive to allow the fumes to pass over the top
-and toward the operator. The frames may then be gently pried loose and
-lifted out carefully, without crushing a bee if it can be avoided.
-Crushing bees fills the air with the odor of poison, which irritates
-the bees. So also when one bee is provoked to sting others follow
-because of the odor of poison.
-
-Too much smoke will often render certain manipulations difficult; for
-example, when queens are to be sought out, or nuclei or artificial
-swarms made, volumes of smoke blown in between the combs will drive
-the bees from them so that they will cluster in clumps on the bottoms
-of the frames or in the corners of the hives. A little observation and
-judgment will enable one to know when the bees need smoke and how much
-of it to prevent any outbreak on their part, which it is always best to
-forestall rather than be obliged to quell after it is fully under way.
-
-The frame hive as now made--with metal rabbets and arrangements
-for surplus honey, and quilts instead of honey boards--reduces
-propolization to a minimum and renders the danger of irritating the
-bees by jarring when manipulating much less. As a prerequisite to rapid
-and safe manipulation _perfectly straight combs are necessary_.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 14.--Manipulation--tilting to bring reverse side of
-comb in view. (Original.)]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 15.--Manipulation--reverse side of comb brought to
-view. (Original.)]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 16.--Manipulation--examining verse side of comb.
-(Original.)]
-
-With the common or black bees it is never safe to do without the veil
-as a protection to the face, and with these bees it will also be very
-difficult to avoid stings on the hands unless considerable smoke has
-been driven into the entrance beforehand and time has been given the
-bees to get well filled with honey before the hive is opened; even
-then frequent recourse to smoke will generally be necessary. Blacks
-are by far the most troublesome of all races about flying from their
-hive entrances to sting in an unprovoked manner. Next to these are
-the crosses containing the blood of the blacks. Italians have much
-less of this disposition, and Carniolans and Cyprians rarely, then
-latter almost never, fly from their hive entrances to attack unless
-their hives have been disturbed. _Pure_ Cyprians can generally be
-handled without the use of the bee veil by skillful bee manipulators
-who understand the qualities of the race. Much of the work among pure
-Italians can be done without a veil after one has gained experience
-in manipulation. During four years' residence in Carniola the writer,
-manipulating annually several hundred colonies of bees, never had
-occasion to employ a bee veil. If no bees but gray Carniolans of pure
-blood are in the apiary and some smoke is used a veil will never be
-necessary. They maybe handled in all kinds of weather, early and late,
-even during the night, yet with but a small part of the risk which
-attends the manipulation of other races. Nor will it be necessary to
-delude them with smoke from time to time, as one is obliged to do with
-blacks. To dispense entirely with the bee veil is a more important
-consideration, especially to the professional bee-master, than is at
-first apparent to the inexperienced. Its use injures the eyesight
-seriously, especially where one is obliged to strain his eyes for hours
-to see eggs, larvæ, etc., in the cells, to hunt out queens and queen
-cells, and adjust frames. Besides this, the hindrance to rapid work
-which the veil causes, as well as the great discomfort in wearing it
-for hours during hot weather, are considerations worth weighing.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 17.--Quinby closed-end frames. (From A B C of Bee
-Culture.)]
-
-To recapitulate: To secure easy, rapid, and safe manipulation
-accurately made hives, with the frames, if hanging, arranged to rest on
-folded metal rabbets, and the combs perfectly straight, are essential.
-It is equally important also that some one of the gentler races be
-kept Furthermore, a good bee smoker fed with dry fuel is necessary,
-while the bee escape to clear supers without manipulation of combs is a
-great help. Quilts, queen excluders, and bee escapes reduce the amount
-of manipulation required, and at the same time facilitate what is
-absolutely necessary.
-
-In general, the best time to manipulate hives is when most of the bees
-are busy in the fields. The young bees left at home are most easily
-controlled and the old ones returning are generally laden.
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER IV.
-
- =ESTABLISHING AN APIARY: TIME--SELECTING HIVES OF
- BEES--MOVING BEES--SELECTION OF SITE.=
-
-
-Spring is the best season to establish an apiary, especially for a
-person unacquainted with the practical care of bees. Colonies in good
-condition procured then are more easily kept in order by the novice
-than if purchased in the fall. Mistakes in management may possibly be
-remedied before the season closes, and by the time it is necessary to
-prepare for the winter the learner will have gained a certain amount of
-practical knowledge of the nature and requirements of the bees. If the
-start be made late in the season mistakes, if they occur, may result
-fatally before the proper remedy can be applied.
-
-The beginner had better obtain his start by purchasing one or two
-colonies of pure Italian or Carniolan bees in accurately made frame
-hives and in first-class condition. These he should get from some
-bee-master of repute near his own place, if possible, in order to
-avoid expressage and possible damage through long confinement or
-numerous transfers. The cost per colony may be $6 to $8; yet bees
-at this price will generally be found much cheaper in the end, for,
-though common bees in box hives may frequently be obtained for half
-or even less than half as much, the cost, when finally transferred
-into frame hives, fitted up with straight combs, and the common queens
-replaced by Italians or Carniolans, will not be less. The possession
-of a colony already in prime working order gives the novice a standard
-with which to compare all others and often enables him to avoid costly
-experiments. Another plan, also commendable, is to agree with some
-neighboring bee keeper to deliver as many first swarms on the day they
-issue as are wanted. These will give the right start if placed as soon
-as received in hives with foundation starters and the frames properly
-spaced--1⅜ inches from center to center, it being understood that the
-swarms are early and prime ones, with vigorous queens. Only those
-issuing from colonies that have swarmed the year before or from such as
-were themselves second swarms of the previous year should be accepted.
-Swarms from these will have queens not over one year old. It is better
-to have queens of the current year's raising, but these can only be
-obtained by taking the second or third swarms from a given hive, which
-come later and are smaller, or by substituting young queens for those
-which come with the swarms.
-
-
- SELECTION OF STOCKS.
-
-The relative Strength of different stocks may be determined by watching
-the flight of the bees. The playing of the young bees in front of the
-hive is apt to deceive one. This lasts but twenty minutes or so, but
-a weak stock compared then with a strong one whose young bees are not
-flying might be regarded as very populous. The young bees sporting in
-front of the hive may be known by their light, fuzzy appearance, and
-by the fact that as they take wing to leave the hive they turn their
-heads toward the entrance and sail about it in semicircles, frequently
-alighting on the flight board and taking wing again. They are thus
-marking the location of the hive so as to be able to return to it, for
-an attempt to enter another hive might result fatally to them. They
-finally fly away in constantly widening circles. Field workers used to
-the location fly in a direct line away from the hive. When the young
-bees return they do not alight at once as do the field workers laden
-with honey, but generally hover about the entrance until certain they
-have reached the right hive. Having noted by their flight which stocks
-seem to have the most bees, a closer examination can be made by blowing
-a little smoke of any sort into the entrances and tipping the hives
-back, if they stand on loose bottom boards. When not so constructed the
-examination must, of course, be made by removing the top covering, or
-if the combs are built in frames, some of these.
-
-In addition to the strength of the colony, the number of combs
-containing brood, straightness, kind and age of combs, amount of
-honey on hand, the cleanliness and healthfulness of the colony are
-points upon which full information is desirable. In April a good
-colony located in a central latitude ought to have brood in five or
-six combs; yet as ordinarily wintered it will be difficult to find
-colonies having at this time more than three or four combs containing
-brood. The combs should be straight, so that if in an old-fashioned
-box hive they can be cut out and fitted without great waste into
-frames, and if the hive is a frame one it is absolutely necessary to
-have combs straight and built wholly within the frames in order that
-the latter may be readily removed and returned to the hive. The less
-drone comb the better. There will always be enough, an area half the
-size of a man's hand being quite sufficient for each hive. The larger
-size of the drone cells and greater thickness of the combs (1¼ inches)
-will make it readily recognizable. If over one-eighth of the surface
-is drone comb the colony should be rejected. If the combs are so old
-as to be nearly black and to show cell walls much thickened they are
-very objectionable. There should be several pounds of sealed honey
-in each hive in early spring. Other things being equal, those stocks
-which come through the winter with 20 pounds or so of sealed honey in
-the combs will develop much faster than those having just enough to
-last them until they gather fresh honey rapidly enough to supply their
-daily needs. The presence of an abundance gives the bees courage.
-They do not fear to draw upon their stores to supply the young that
-are fast developing. The combs filled with honey part with their heat
-only slowly when the outside temperature falls, and there is thus less
-danger of a check in the development of the brood through too low
-temperature in the hive.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 18.--Box hive prepared for transportation.
-(Original.)]
-
-If the surfaces of the combs, the frames, or the inner walls of the
-hive are spotted with a brown, crumbly looking substance it is an
-evidence that the bees have bad diarrhea during the winter or spring,
-and if they have been badly affected not only will the combs and the
-whole interior of the hive be soiled, the former perhaps so as to be
-rendered almost worthless, but the bees will lack vitality, and will
-soon dwindle in numbers, not being able to survive the first arduous
-labors of the opening of the season. It is not always easy to determine
-whether a stock in a box hive is affected with foul brood or not, for
-the odor of decaying brood is not of itself sufficient to warrant such
-a conclusion, although it is well to reject any hive having any putrid
-odor about it. The natural odor of the hive, produced as it is largely
-by honey, wax, pollen, and propolis, is not unpleasant to most people,
-so that the presence of any disagreeable odor should arouse suspicion.
-If larvæ that have turned black are seen in the cells, and the capping
-of the sealed brood is sunken and in some instances perforated,
-showing brown and ropy contents in the bottoms of the cells, and the
-putrid odor is present, the existence of foul brood (_Bacillus alvei_
-Cheshire) is pretty certain. This is a scourge much to be dreaded. Not
-only should no hives or colonies be purchased from the same apiary, but
-none in the vicinity of an apiary so affected.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 19.--Frame hive prepared for transportation.
-(Orig.)]
-
-
- MOVING BEES.
-
-In moving bees the box hives should be turned bottom upward, the bees
-driven back by blowing a little smoke on them, and a few loose rolls
-of rags laid across the lower edges of the combs in such a manner that
-a piece of sheeting, sacking, or preferably cheese cloth or other open
-material may be tied over the whole lower end and drawn tightly, so
-as to press the rolls against the combs and hold them in place. It is
-even well to tack strips of lath outside of the covering, so placed
-that they will cross the rolls of rags and press the latter more firmly
-against the lower edges of the combs. Strips may also be tacked around
-the lower edges of the hive to hold the cloth in place, or it maybe
-fastened by winding with strong cord. The bees should be thus prepared
-as late in the day as possible, care being taken that none escape, and
-at dusk stood bottom upward in a spring conveyance or on straw or hay
-several inches deep in the box of a wagon, with straw packed between
-and around the hives. It is advisable to drive slowly, avoiding ruts as
-much as possible. By turning the hives bottom upward the weight of the
-combs rests on their points of attachment, and since in such hives the
-combs are not always attached well down the sides danger of breakage
-is lessened, especially when the rolls of cloth are pressed against
-the edges of the combs. If the bees are in frame hives, the frames of
-which have not been disturbed recently, it is likely that, with care in
-driving, the combs will not get displaced. If necessary to use a sheet
-or cloth to give ventilation, it should be tied over the top and the
-hive placed in the wagon in the same position it occupied on the stand,
-lest the combs, not being attached all the way down, should fall to one
-side or the other. Except during quite warm weather and for long trips
-it may not be necessary to adopt all the precautions here indicated,
-although in case bees are to be transported on long journeys by rail or
-water far more careful preparation is even necessary.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 20.--An apiary in Florida. (Reproduced from
-photograph.)]
-
-
- SELECTION OF SITE.
-
-The apiary should be located where no surface water will collect
-during heavy storms, yet the ground should not be very uneven, but
-rather a gentle slope. In the colder portions of the United States
-a south-eastern exposure is decidedly preferable, though in the
-South the slope of the site is less important to the welfare of the
-bees; a direct southern or south western exposure, however, will
-be found extremely uncomfortable at times both for the operator and
-for his bees. A windbreak, such as a board fence, a hedge, or a row
-of evergreens on the north and west, is advisable as a protection
-against sharp winds in winter and early spring, which keep many bees
-from reaching their hives even when near the entrances. Some shade
-is desirable, yet such density as to produce dampness is extremely
-detrimental. In moist elevated regions, which are of course cool,
-no shade will be needed, except temporarily for newly hived swarms.
-Tall trees are objectionable in or near the apiary, because swarms
-are likely to cluster so high as to render their capture difficult
-and dangerous. Some of the self-hivers or nous warming devices now
-offered for sale may with improvement yet accomplish the end in view,
-but heretofore clipping one wing of each laying queen and using all
-precautions to prevent after-swarming, making artificial swarms,
-selection in breeding, or any other means known to limit swarming,
-have not sufficed to prevent the occasional issuance of a swarm with
-a queen having wings. Therefore it is advisable to have the apiary
-located under or near low trees, where the hives can be readily seen
-from the house. Carniolan, Italian, and Cyprian bees give less trouble
-to passers-by or to live stock than do the ordinary brown or German
-bees, or hybrids of these races, yet whatever race be kept, it is best
-to have the apiary as secluded as the necessary or desirable conditions
-will permit.
-
-The frontispiece and figures 20, 21, and 75, taken from photographs of
-apiaries located in different parts of the country, give a fair idea of
-sites actually occupied and the arrangement of hive-.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 21.--An apiary in California. (Reproduced from
-photograph.)]
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER V.
-
- =HIVES AND IMPLEMENTS.=
-
-
-The safest and best rule in making or selecting hives and implements
-for the apiary is, _have them simple and accurate in construction_. A
-plain box with frames and as few other loose parts as possible will
-yield in the hands of a skillful bee-master far better results than the
-most elaborately constructed bee palace manipulated by one who does
-not understand the nature and requirements of bees; in fact, the most
-experienced generally prefer the former. The important point to decide
-in connection with any proposed modification or adjunct of the hive is
-whether its adoption will more than compensate for the resultant loss
-of simplicity. While zealously endeavoring to preserve simplicity of
-construction, however, complete adaptability to the purpose designed
-must be kept in view, and should not be sacrificed because of a
-slight added expense. The bee keeper needs but few implements. With
-even a limited number of hives, a smoker, a wax extractor, and a few
-queen-introducing cages are the most necessary, and one or two bee
-veils had better be added to the equipment, the total cost of which
-need not exceed $5 to $6. If the intention be to produce comb honey,
-and but a few hives are kept, then sections folded and with starters
-in place had better be purchased, but with ten or more hives and time
-during the winter season to prepare sections for the harvest, a section
-folder and a foundation fastener, costing together about $3, may be
-profitably added to the outfit. If only extracted honey is wanted a
-honey extractor with one or two uncapping knives should be purchased
-instead of the section folder and foundation fastener, the cost of the
-outfit being in this case some $15 to $18. Fifty or even seventy-five
-hives may be managed conveniently and economically with no greater
-investment in implements than that indicated above, and if both comb
-and extracted honey are wanted the cost of the outfit, it can readily
-be seen, need not exceed $20.
-
-
- HIVES.
-
-In regard to the particular style or form of hive to be used to insure
-the best results, it should be stated that while an intelligent
-apiarist whose experience has been considerable may be successful with
-almost any hive, even with poor ones, there can be no doubt that a hive
-not only adapted to the nature of the bees but also to the climate of
-the bee keeper's particular locality, and at the same time permitting
-the rapid performance of all operations necessary in securing surplus
-honey, will very materially affect the net profit of an apiary. This
-being the case, the original cost of a hive, whether a dollar or two
-more or less, is of small importance compared with the desirability of
-securing convenience and simplicity in its management and of promoting
-the welfare of the bees in winter and summer. Frame hives managed
-with intelligence and skill are essential to the greatest success.
-Inaccurately made frame hives, neglected, as is too frequently the
-case, so that the combs are built irregularly between or across the
-frames, are not one whit better than box hives. Even an accurately
-built frame hive, if no attention is given to the spacing of the frames
-when combs are being built, will soon present no advantages over a box
-hive of the same dimensions and having the same space for supering
-above the brood apartment.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 22.--Ancient Greek movable comb hive. (After _La
-Maison rustique_, published in 1742.)]
-
-The frame and hive most in use in this country is the invention of
-Rev. L. L. Langstroth, and this hive, with slight modifications,
-has been generally adopted in England and her colonies. It is also
-becoming known and appreciated on the continent of Europe. The patent
-on the frame the essential feature--expired many years ago, so that
-anyone who may wish to do so is now free to employ the invention. It
-is still used by many in the same form in which it was brought out in
-1852. Others have changed the dimensions of the frames and given them
-different names, while retaining the special feature of the inventor's
-principle, namely, the loose-fitting frame suspended by the projecting
-ends of its top bar on a continuous rabbet. The outside dimensions of
-the Langstroth frame most in use are 17⅝ inches long by 9⅛ inches deep
-(fig. 24). Mr. M. Quinby, one of the most practical and successful
-bee-masters of our century, preferred frames 12 inches deep by 18
-inches Long, and these are still used by many large honey raisers.
-Other sizes are also used somewhat.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 23.--Dadant-Quinby form of Langstroth hive, with
-cap and gable roof. (Redrawn from Langstroth on the Honey Bee.)]
-
-The bars composing frames are usually made seven-eighths inch wide,
-although some prefer to have the top bar 1 inch or even 1⅛ inches wide,
-and the bottom bar is made by some as narrow as live-eighths inch or
-even three-eighths inch square. The narrower bottom bar, at least down
-to a width of five eighths inch, renders the removal of the frames
-less difficult, and bees are brushed off a little more easily; but
-when combs cut from box hives are to be fitted into the frames it is
-not quite so easy to hold the pieces in the center of the frame by
-means of transferring sticks and get the bees to fasten them securely
-at the bottom as it is with full seven-eighths-inch bottom bars. Top
-bars have been made by some hive manufacturers from one-fourth-inch to
-three-eighths-inch strips, strengthened somewhat by a very thin strip
-placed edgewise on the underside as a comb guide; but such bars are
-much too light and will sag when filled with honey or with brood and
-honey, and when section holders or other receptacles for surplus honey
-or sets of combs are placed above them more than a bee space exists
-between the upper and lower sets of frames or between the section
-holder and the frames below, and the bees will fill in with bits of
-comb between these, making it difficult to remove the top story or
-any of the combs from it; indeed, an attempt under such circumstances
-to remove combs from the top story generally results in tearing the
-frames apart and breaking the combs, and if honey leaks out robbing
-may be induced at some times of the year, all because of an error in
-construction.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 24.--Langstroth frame; size, 17⅝ in. by 9⅛ in.
-outside; _pn_, projecting nail. (Original.)]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 25.--Form in which to nail frames: _b_, button;
-_db_, double button. (Original.)]
-
-To avoid this the top bar should never be less than five-eighths inch
-to three-fourths inch thick, while for long top bars seven-eighths-inch
-or 1-inch strips are preferable. The side and bottom bars may be made
-of one-fourth-inch strips. A corner is taken from the end of the top
-bar by a cross cut made at exactly right angles on the underside of the
-top bar, reaching to within one-fourth inch of the top of the bar, and
-another cut from the end so as to meet the first-mentioned one. Each
-side bar can then be nailed by one nail driven from above through the
-top bar, and two driven through the side bar itself into the end of
-the top bar. The bottom bar can then be nailed on, or, better still,
-cut short enough to permit it to be inserted between the side bars,
-the nails holding it to be driven through the latter. Nailing frames
-loosely or without getting them exactly in true brings with it great
-disadvantages. If only slightly out of shape they may swing together
-at the bottom or touch the sides of the hive, and in either case will
-be glued fast by the bees; also in the first instance the combs, which
-are always built perpendicularly, will not be wholly within the frames.
-To avoid these troubles it is essential, first, that the parts for the
-frames be cut very accurately; second, that the frame be in exact shape
-at the time of nailing; and third, that the nails be driven in quite
-firmly; long, slender, flat-headed wire nails being necessary to secure
-proper stiffness of the frame. Nails 1½ to 1¾ inches long made of No.
-16 or No, 17 wire, or 4d. fine wire nails are the right size. Nailing
-in a form, such as is shown by fig. 25, is therefore advisable. Greater
-ease in withdrawing the frames from the hive is secured by making the
-bottom of the frame one-fourth inch less in width than the upper part.
-A round-headed nail or a curved wire staple driven through the side bar
-at each lower corner into the end of the bottom bar and left projecting
-one fourth inch will also facilitate the removal of frames and their
-insertion in the hive without the crushing of bees, and hence allow
-more rapid manipulation. (Fig. 24, _pn_.)
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 26.--Lock-joint chaff hive. (From Gleanings in Bee
-Culture.)]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 27.--Manner of nailing hives. (Original.)]
-
-The hive to hold the frames should be the plainest kind of a box, the
-frames resting on rabbets made in the upper edges. Constructing it
-with lock joints, as shown in fig. 26, or by halving together the ends
-of the boards, as in fig. 27, and, in either case, nailing in both
-directions makes a strong hive body. The latter may be single-walled
-for mild climates or where cellar wintering is practiced: but for
-severe regions it is advisable to have permanent double walls with the
-inter-spaces filled with chaff, ground cork, or similar material, or
-else outer cases should be provided giving space between the latter
-and the hive proper for dry packing. As the bees always try to glue
-the frames fast by means of propolis, it is better to make them rest
-on strips of tin, galvanized iron, or band iron. The rabbet should
-therefore be made eleven-sixteenths inch deep, and the strip of iron or
-other metal frame-rest nailed on so that its edge will project upward
-five-sixteenths inch from the bottom of the rabbet. Folded strips of
-tin as made by manufacturers of apiarian implements are preferable to
-single strips nailed on, since they facilitate the sliding of frames
-and do not cut the top bars where the latter rest upon them (fig. 28).
-The projecting ends of the top bars being one-fourth inch thick, the
-bars themselves come within one-eighth inch of the upper edge of the
-hive. It is essential that the distance between the ends of the frames
-and the hive should not exceed three-eighths inch, lest in time of
-plenty the bees should build comb there; nor can less than one-fourth
-inch space be allowed, for if the bees can not readily pass around the
-ends of frames of the Langstroth type they will glue the frames to the
-side walls of the hive, making it very difficult, if not impossible,
-to remove them without breakage. If, as suggested, the frames are made
-one-fourth inch shorter at the bottom than at the top, that is, 17⅜
-inches at bottom and 17⅝ inches at top, the hive should then be 18⅛
-inches inside from front to rear, the frames running in this direction.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 28.--Section of improved tin frame-rest: _A_,
-folded edge on which frame rests; _B_ and _D_, nails. (From Gleanings.)]
-
-If the frames are accurately made there will then be one fourth inch
-space at each end of the frame just below the top bar and three-eighths
-inch at each end of the bottom bar. Between the frames and the bottom
-board, on which the hive rests, one-half inch space answers, but
-five-eighths inch is preferable. The width of the hive will depend, of
-course, upon the number of frames decided upon, 1⅜ inches being allowed
-for each frame, and three-eighths inch added for the extra space at
-the side. If a top story to contain frames for extracting is placed
-over the brood chamber, its depth is to be such as to leave the space
-between the two sets of combs not over five-sixteenths inch, and in
-this, as in the lower story, the space between the ends of the frames
-and the hive wall should be no more than three-eighths inch. A good way
-to keep rain from beating in between the stories and also to retain
-the warmth of the bees in outdoor wintering, yet admit of suitable
-provision for the upward escape of moisture, is to have the second
-story fit over the top of the lower one, and rest on ledges made by
-nailing strips around the latter one-half inch below the upper edge. As
-this makes the upper story nearly 2 inches larger from front to rear
-than the lower one: it will be necessary when arranging this story for
-frames to make the front and rear double-walled. This is easily done
-by tacking on the inside of each end two half-inch strips, on which a
-halt-inch board is then nailed. These inside end pieces should be only
-wide enough to reach within three-fourths inch of the top edge of the
-outer ends, and, like the lower story, should be finished at the top
-with a metal rabbet for the frames to rest on, or the inside piece may
-be made to come within three-eighths inch of the top and its upper edge
-beveled so the frames can not be greatly propolized, an arrangement
-which answers very well for this story.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 29.--The Langstroth hive--Dadant-Quinby form--cross
-section showing construction. (From Langstroth.)]
-
-As to the width of hives and consequent number of frames each story
-is to hold, there has been of late much diversity of opinion. The
-original Langstroth hive held ten frames in the lower story and eleven
-frames in the second or top story. A demand for smaller-sized brood
-chambers and uniformity of the stories having been created, the larger
-hive-manufacturing establishments gave hives constructed to hold eight
-frames the most prominent place in their catalogues, and by many it
-was considered that those who adhered to the older, larger form did so
-merely through conservatism. But after some years' trial a reaction in
-favor of larger hives seems to have set in, especially among producers
-of extracted honey. Many of the latter are finding that with carefully
-bred queens even twelve-frame brood apartments give the best results.
-The author's experience of over twenty-five years with frame hives
-of various sizes and styles, both American and foreign, in widely
-differing climates, convinces him that to restrict a hive to a capacity
-of less than ten frames for the brood chamber is, in most localities,
-undesirable, but it will frequently be found advantageous to contract
-temporarily the space occupied by the bees. For extracted honey alone,
-especially in any region having a short flow of honey, twelve-frame
-capacity is preferable. Thin, movable partitions, known as "division
-boards," enable one to contract the space at will, and the addition of
-supers or top stories gives storage room for surplus honey. Some prefer
-to have the hive in one story holding twice the usual number of frames
-and contractible with a division board. The entrance is then usually
-at one end, parallel with the combs, and the surplus honey is obtained
-from the rear part of the hive, either in sections held in wide frames
-or it is extracted with a machine from ordinary frames. This plan
-renders access to all of the frames somewhat easier than when two or
-more stories are used, but as the methods now most followed involve
-on the whole less manipulation of individual frames than was formerly
-deemed advantageous this superiority can not count for much--hardly
-enough in fact to balance the limitation as to the number of frames and
-the inconvenience of larger and more unwieldy hive bodies, covers, and
-bottom boards.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 30.--The Nonpareil hire. (From Bee-Keeping for
-Profit.)]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 31.--Dadant-Quinby form of Langstroth hive, open:
-_a_, front of brood apartment; _b_, alighting board; _c_, movable
-entrance block; _d_, cap; _e_, straw mat; _f_, carriage-cloth cover for
-frames; _g, g_, frames with combs. (From Langstroth.)]
-
-Small hives may yield excellent results in the hands of a skillful
-bee-master, but an equal degree of skill will, in general, give as
-good, if not better, returns from large hives, and the novice who may
-not know just when or how to perform all operations will find himself
-much safer with hives holding ten or twelve frames in each story, and
-far more likely to secure good returns from them than from smaller ones.
-
-A good, tight roof or cover is indispensable, well painted, so that
-no drop of water can get in from above. A flat roof slanting from
-front to rear will answer, but a ventilated gable roof with the sides
-well slanted is far preferable. Above the sections or the upper set
-of frames a piece of carriage cloth, enameled side down, should be
-laid during the summer season to prevent too great escape of heat
-above and to keep the bees from getting into the roof or propolizing
-it. The cloth is more suitable than a board, since the latter when
-propolized can not be removed without considerably jarring the bees.
-If the carriage cloth be weighted with a board which has been clamped
-with a strip across each end to prevent warping, there will be less
-propolization of the sections above or building of bits of comb on the
-tops of the frames when these have been used. To dispense with this
-extra piece and also to render the gable cover flat on the underside,
-the board which rests on the carriage cloth may be nailed to the cover
-permanently. During very hot weather the quilt may be turned back and
-the cover propped up.
-
-The bottom board to the hive may be nailed permanently or the hive
-may be merely placed on it. In either case the sides and back of the
-hive should be wide enough to come down over the edges of the bottom
-board and thus shed all water that runs down the outside of the hive.
-A sloping board in front will facilitate the entrance of heavily laden
-bees and many that fall to the ground will crawl in if the hive is
-within 8 or 10 inches of the ground. Many persons place the bottom
-boards directly on the ground, and the majority have them but 3 or 4
-inches above the surface. By arranging them farther from the ground, at
-least 6 or 8 inches, dampness is avoided and the ease in manipulation
-is greatly increased. English manufacturers make the Langstroth hive
-with permanent legs some 6 or 8 inches long. This is no doubt necessary
-in the damp climate of that country, and even here the free circulation
-of the air beneath the hive and the entrance of direct rays of sunlight
-at times are so beneficial that there might well be a return to this
-valuable feature, which was part of the original Langstroth hive.
-
-Great accuracy of parts must be insisted upon in hives and frames, both
-because covers and top stories should be made to fit interchangeably,
-and because the bees carry out their own work with great precision,
-so that ease in manipulation of combs can only be secured by nice
-adjustment. Hives cut by machinery are therefore greatly to be
-preferred, and though most of those kept in stock by apiarian
-manufacturers do not include in their construction all of the features
-mentioned above, they still answer in most particulars the requirements
-of bee life, and, if proper protection for the winter be afforded, are
-very serviceable.
-
-
- IMPLEMENTS.
-
- BEE SMOKERS.
-
-No well-appointed apiary in these days is without one or more bee
-smokers. The professional bee keeper who has once used a bellows smoker
-would as soon think of dispensing with this implement as a skillful
-cook would be disposed to go back from the modern cooking range to the
-old-fashioned fireplace.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 32.--The Bingham bee smoker.]
-
-For hundreds of years smoke has been used to quell and even stupefy
-bees, and various forms of bee smokers have long been used; but the
-modern bellows form, so far superior to the old clumsy implements which
-oftentimes required both hands of the operator, or to be held between
-the teeth, is purely an American invention. Mr. M. Quinby, one of the
-pioneers in improved methods in apiculture in America, was the inventor
-of the bellows smoker having the fire box at the side of the bellows
-so arranged as to enable the operator to work it with one hand, and
-when not in use to stand it upright and secure a draft which would keep
-the fire going. Certain improvements on the original Quinby smoker
-have been made without changing the general form of the implement, one
-of the most effective and durable of these improved makes being the
-Bingham direct-draft smoker. Other modifications are the Crane, with
-a cut-off valve, the Clark, Hill, and Corneil smokers. The medium and
-larger sized smokers, even for use in small apiaries, are preferable.
-They light easier, take in all kinds of fuel, and hold fire better,
-while they are always much more effective since they furnish a large
-volume of smoke at a given instant, thus nipping in the bud any
-incipient rebellion. The bee smoker and its use are well shown by figs.
-12, 32, and 53.
-
- VEILS.
-
-Veils for the protection of the face will be needed at times--for
-visitors if not for the manipulator. The beginner, however, should use
-one under all circumstances until he has acquired some skill in opening
-hives and manipulating frames and has become acquainted with the temper
-and notes of bees, so that he will have confidence when they are
-buzzing about him and will know when it is really safe to dispense with
-the face protector. Veils are made of various materials. In those which
-offer the least obstruction to the sight, black silk tulle or brussels
-net is used, the meshes of which are hexagonal. Linen brussels net is
-more durable than silk, as is also cotton, though the latter turns gray
-in time and obstructs the vision. By making the front only of silk and
-the sides of some ordinary white cotton netting the cost of the veil
-is less, but it is not so comfortable to wear in hot weather, being
-less open. A rubber cord is drawn into the upper edge, which brings
-the latter snugly in about the hat band. By having the veil long and
-full and drawing it over a straw hat with a wide, stiff brim, tying the
-lower edge about the shoulders or buttoning it inside a jacket or coat,
-the face is securely protected. (Fig. 12.)
-
- HONEY EXTRACTORS AND HONEY KNIVES.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 33.--Williams' automatic reversible honey
-extractor.]
-
-The honey extractor (fig. 33) consists of a large can, within which a
-light metal basket revolves. The full combs of honey, from which the
-cappings of the cells have been removed by a sharp knife, are placed
-inside the basket and after several rapid revolutions by means of a
-simple gearing are found to have been emptied of their contents. The
-combs, only very slightly damaged, can then be returned to the hives to
-be refilled by the bees. If extra sets of combs are on hand to supply
-as fast as the bees need the room in which to store honey, great yields
-can often be obtained. A good extractor should be made of metal, and
-the basket in which the combs are revolved should be light, strong, and
-doubly braced on the outside so that the wire-cloth surface, against
-which the combs press, will not yield. The wire cloth used, as well
-as all interior parts of the extractor, should be tinned, as acids
-of honey act on galvanized iron, zinc, iron, etc. Wire cloth made of
-coarse wire and with meshes one-half inch square is often used, but it
-injures the surface of new combs and those very heavy with honey more
-than that made of about No. 20 wire and with one-fourth-inch meshes.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 34.--Quinby uncapping knife.]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 35.--Bingham & Hetherington uncapping knife.]
-
-For removing the wax covering with which the bees close the full cells
-a peculiarly shaped knife, known as an uncapping knife, is needed
-(figs. 34 and 35). The blade, which should be of the finest steel to
-hold a keen edge, is fixed at such an angle with the handle as to keep
-the hand that grasps the latter from rubbing over the surface of the
-comb or the edges of the frames. The form of knife with curved point is
-best adapted to reach any depression in the comb, which, if uncapped
-and emptied of its honey, will likely next time be built out even with
-the general surface. Dipping the knife in hot water facilitates rapid
-work, and of course the heavier-bladed knives hold the heat better than
-thin bladed ones, and are for this reason preferred by some; also
-because they more surely lift the capping clear from the surface of the
-comb.
-
- WAX EXTRACTORS.
-
-A solar wax extractor is needed in every apiary; several are kept
-running in many large apiaries. Extractors which render wax by steam
-are also used. To the latter class belongs the improved Swiss wax
-extractor (fig. 36). This implement, invented in Switzerland and
-improved in America, consists of a tin or copper vessel with a circle
-of perforations in the bottom near the sides to let in steam from a
-boiler below, and within this upper vessel another receptacle--the comb
-receiver--made of perforated zinc. Its use, as well as that of the
-solar wax extractor, is described under the head of "Wax production."
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 36.--Excelsior wax extractor.]
-
-Within a few years wax extractors employing the heat of the sun and
-known as solar wax extractors have come into general use (fig. 61).
-The essential features in all the forms that have been devised are a
-metal tank with a glass cover and usually a wire-cloth strainer, below
-which is placed the receptacle for the wax, the whole so arranged as to
-enable one to tilt it at such an angle as will catch the direct rays
-of the sun. The effectiveness of the solar wax extractor is increased
-by having the glass doubled, and adding also a reflector, such as
-a mirror or a sheet of bright metal. An important advantage of the
-solar wax extractor is the ease with which small quantities of comb
-can be rendered. By having this machine much is therefore saved that
-might be ruined by wax moth larvæ if allowed to accumulate, besides
-serving at the same time to increase these pests about the apiary. The
-wax obtained by solar heat is also of superior quality, being clean,
-never water-soaked nor scorched, and also light in color, owing to the
-bleaching action of the sunlight.
-
-The cost of a medium-sized solar wax extractor does not exceed that of
-the larger Swiss steam extractors, yet of the two the former is likely
-to prove by far the more valuable, even though it can be used only
-during the warmer months.
-
- QUEEN-INTRODUCING CAGES.
-
-In every apiary there should be several of these on hand. The best are
-such as permit the caging of the queen directly on the comb over cells
-of honey. A little practice will enable anyone to make very serviceable
-and cheap cages for introducing queens. From a piece of wire cloth
-having ten to twelve meshes to the inch cut a strip 2 inches wide; cut
-this in pieces 4¼ inches long, roll each piece around a stick to give
-it a cylindrical form, lap the edges, and sew with a piece of wire.
-Then in one end of this cylinder make slits three-quarters inch apart
-and three-quarters inch deep, and bend over the tongues thus formed so
-as to close this end of the cage. With the flat end of a pencil press
-warm wax or comb into the bottom inside to give it firmness. Then
-unravel five or six strands of the wire cloth at the other end. The
-wire points left after unraveling these strands may be pressed into
-the comb so as to confine a queen and four or five of her attendant
-workers. (Fig. 66.)
-
-Most of the queen-mailing cages are arranged to admit of their use in
-introducing the queens also, so that when received it is only necessary
-to withdraw a cork and place the cage on top of the brood frames, thus
-admitting the bees to the candy. They will eat their way in and release
-the queen in twenty-four to forty-eight hours. This plan is very good
-for such as lack experience in handling queens, and hence might injure
-them by grasping the abdomen, by pinching the thorax too hard, or by
-catching the legs on the wire cloth of the introducing cage.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 37.--Simplicity feeder. (From A B C of Bee
-Culture.)]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 38.--Fruit-jar bee feeder. Bottom of feeding stage
-and perforated cap shown separately. (Orig.)]
-
- BEE FEEDERS.
-
-During warm weather liquid food may be placed in any open receptacles
-which can be set in the upper stories of the hives. Tin fruit or
-vegetable cans that have been used may be made to serve the purpose,
-a wooden float for each or some bits of comb being put in to keep the
-bees from drowning; but during cool weather feeders arranged to admit
-the bees but not permit the escape of heat had better be employed.
-Glass fruit jars with metal caps are generally at Land, and make
-excellent feeders by merely punching a few holes in each cap. After the
-jar is filled with liquid food and the cap screwed on tightly it is
-inverted over a feed hole in the quilt or honey board. The cap, or top
-story, with cover, protects the whole, and it is very easy to see when
-more food is wanted by merely raising the cover slightly. If arranged
-on a feeding stage covered on the underside with wire cloth, as shown
-in fig. 38, feeding may be accomplished without being troubled by the
-workers.
-
-Feeders of various forms constructed of wood or tin, or of these
-materials combined, most of them serving the purpose excellently, are
-offered in catalogues of apiarian manufacturers.
-
- SECTION FOLDERS.
-
-Sections can be folded or put together readily over an accurately made
-block just large enough to fill the space inclosed by a section, and
-several machines to facilitate the work in case it is to be done on a
-large scale have been devised.
-
- BEE ESCAPES.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 39.--The Porter spring bee escape.]
-
-The bee escape (fig. 39) is an important labor-saving invention for the
-honey producer. A number of them may be regarded as necessary in every
-apiary. They are inserted in holes bored in a honey board and used in
-freeing supers from bees, as described under "Honey production."
-
- FOUNDATION FASTENERS.
-
-_For sections._--Several styles of implements for fastening thin
-foundation in sections have been devised. All of them do the work well.
-A simple one, which is also low priced, is Parker's; Clark's and the
-Daisy are also highly recommended, and A. C. Miller's is very complete,
-working automatically. The latter, and the Daisy shown in fig. 40, each
-require the use of a lamp.
-
-_For frames._--If the top bars of the frames have a slot or saw kerf
-one-eighth to three-sixteenths inch deep on the underside, made by
-passing them lengthwise over a circular saw, sheets of foundation
-can be very readily fastened by slipping the edge into this groove
-and running melted wax along the angle formed on each side by the
-foundation and the top bar. Or a wedge-shaped strip may be crowded in
-at the side and secured with small wire nails. If the top bar is flat
-on the underside it will be necessary to press the foundation firmly
-against it; that is, to incorporate the edge of the wax sheet into the
-wood of the top bar by rubbing it with a smooth bit of hard wood or
-bone, such as a knife handle, moistening this implement to prevent the
-wax from sticking, and then fix it firmly by pouring melted wax down
-the other side. In the case of top bars having triangular comb guides
-or a projecting tongue on the underside the foundation can be securely
-fastened by merely cutting five or six slits three-eighths to one-half
-inch deep in one edge of the foundation and bending the tongues thus
-formed in alternate directions so as to place the V-edge of the top
-bar between them, when they can be firmly attached to the top bar by
-rubbing with a knife handle as before. Soapsuds or starch water may
-be used to advantage in moistening the knife handle. The foundation
-roller (fig. 41), a small disk of hard wood which revolves in a slot
-at the end of a handle and costs but a few cents, does effective work
-in fastening foundation in brood frames; in fact, it is rather better
-than the knife handle for the work just mentioned, except that it will
-not reach into the corners of the frames, and to secure the foundation
-there the knife handle must still be used. The roller will need to be
-moistened the same as the knife handle.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 40.--The Daisy foundation fastener. (From
-Gleanings.)]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 41.--Fastening starter of comb foundation in frame.
-(Original.)]
-
-It is particularly important that the sheets of foundation be well
-fastened, for if one edge breaks loose with the weight of the bees
-it will crumple down in such a way as not only to ruin that comb, or
-rather to prevent the building of a good comb in the frame in question,
-but also very likely in the adjoining frames if they have not been
-previously built out; and in this case damage will probably result to
-them. To prevent bulging of the comb it is also essential that the
-sheets of foundation, if not wired, be narrower than the inside depth
-of the frame and shorter than its inside length. A full inch of space
-should be allowed between the bottom bar and the sheet of foundation,
-and a half inch at each end for two-thirds of the way up.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 42.--Spur wire-embedder. (From Gleanings.)]
-
-With these precautions swarms may even be hived on full sheets of
-foundation without wiring the frames: but the practice will probably
-continue of using starters, chiefly in the case of swarms, and, when
-full sheets are employed, of alternating them with combs already built
-out. Some prefer to wire the frames even though it is considerable
-trouble, for the combs require less attention while in process of
-construction and are firmer for shipping, for use in the extractor,
-or for any other manipulation. Three or four horizontal wires will
-suffice. No. 30 annealed tinned wire is the preferable size and
-quality. The end bars of the frame are pierced by four holes, the first
-1 inch below the top bar. A small tack secures the end of the wire,
-which is then passed back and forth and drawn up so as to leave no
-slack. The four horizontal wires, 2 inches apart, will be sufficient
-to render combs quite secure. After fastening the foundation to the
-top bar in the usual way the wires are embedded in the wax by a spur
-embedder, which is a small wheel with grooved teeth (fig. 42). Where
-large numbers of frames are to be wired a current of electricity from
-a small battery will do the work more neatly and quickly than the spur
-embedder.
-
-The disadvantages of wiring frames are, first, its expense, caused
-chiefly by the time employed in doing it; and second, the fact that
-wherever the wire does not get embedded into the midrib of the
-foundation, as is sure to happen in many cases, the rearing of brood is
-interfered with, and also, under the methods employed by the majority
-in wintering, moisture is very likely to cause the combs to cleave from
-the wires, whereupon the bees are disposed to gnaw the combs away from
-the wires in spots and not rebuild them.
-
-These disadvantages, except that of expense, are overcome by
-incorporating fine wire in the sheets of foundation when they are
-rolled. The sheets are trimmed with wooden shears, which leave the ends
-of the wires projecting. These are then glued to the bars of the frame.
-The added expense is again the main objection, except to those who wish
-to ship colonies or nuclei, or transport them from place to place for
-pasturage.
-
- COMB-FOUNDATION MACHINES.
-
-The first attempts to give bees outlines of cells as a basis for comb
-building were made in Germany. The top bars of the frames were coated
-on the underside with beeswax, and a strip of wood having the outlines
-of bees' cells cut on it was then pressed against this wax so as to
-form a guide which should lead the bees to build their combs within the
-frames. This was only a comb guide, but was succeeded by small strips
-of wax having the outlines of bees' cells pressed on them by hand,
-a block of wood being engraved for this purpose. The general use of
-comb foundation, especially of the full sheets, was only made possible
-through the improved means of manufacturing it developed in the United
-States. The slow process of hand stamping was succeeded by its rapid
-production on machines, the essential feature of which is two engraved
-cylinders between which the warm sheet of wax is made to pass (fig. 43).
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 43.--Comb-foundation machine. (From Langstroth.)]
-
-Such machines are now made in numerous patterns costing from $15 up.
-Foundation is made with flat-bottomed cells and also with the same form
-as that given by the bees to combs constructed wholly by themselves.
-Both sorts are readily accepted by the bees and built out. Both these
-kinds are also made in various qualities and weights. Only a good
-quality of perfectly pure beeswax should be accepted. Brood foundation
-is made in light, medium, and heavy weights. For use in section boxes
-thin surplus and extra thin surplus are made of light-colored wax. When
-full sheets are used in sections it is better to have it extra thin
-lest there should be a noticeable toughness of the midrib, technically
-known as "fishbone." For unwired frames the medium or heavy brood-comb
-foundation should be employed.
-
-Until used it is best to keep comb foundation between sheets of paper
-and well wrapped, since if long exposed to the air the surface of the
-wax hardens somewhat, but if well packed it may be used years after it
-was made with almost the same advantage as when first rolled out.
-
-It requires considerable skill to make foundation successfully, and
-those who use but a small amount will do better to purchase their
-supply. The high quality of nearly all of the foundation thus far
-supplied in this country has also justified this plan. Should the
-practice of adulterating wax become as common among comb-foundation
-manufacturers in this country as on the continent of Europe no doubt
-many more would procure machines and make their own foundation.
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER VI.
-
- =BEE PASTURAGE.=
-
-
-Bees obtain their food from such a variety of sources that there
-are few localities in our country where a small apiary could not be
-made to yield a surplus above its own needs. Even in the center of
-our larger cities bees placed on the roofs of stores and dwellings
-have often furnished quite a surplus gathered from the gardens of
-the city and its environs. Again, in regions where the soil is too
-light, rocky, or wet to admit of profitable cultivation, it is often
-the case that honey-producing plants abound; indeed, waste land is
-frequently far more profitable for the honey-producer than fields that
-have been brought under cultivation, especially when the latter are
-mainly devoted to grain or potato raising, for insignificant weeds
-in field or swamp often yield honey abundantly, and among the best
-yielders are certain forest trees, whose blossoms, by reason of their
-distance from the ground and in some instances their small size, escape
-notice. Showy flowers made double by the gardener's skill, such as
-roses, dahlias, chrysanthemums, etc., have rarely any attraction for
-our honey bees. Moreover, the small number of these ornamental plants
-usually found in any one locality renders the honey yield, even in
-case they are abundant secreters of nectar, so slight that they are
-of little value. The novice who is seeking to determine the honey
-resources of his locality should therefore not be led into error by
-these. He should compare the flora of his locality with reliable lists
-of honey-producing plants, and, if possible, consult some practical
-bee-master familiar with his surroundings. And all information on this
-score should be fully accepted only after careful verification, as it
-is very easy for anyone to be deceived regarding the sources of given
-honey yields--plants which produce abundantly one season not always
-yielding the next, or those that produce honey freely in one portion
-of the country not yielding anything in another. Soil and climate, the
-variations of successive seasons, and all other conditions affecting
-plant growth--conditions which even the most skillful scientific
-agriculturists admit are exceedingly difficult to understand, and in
-many respects, as yet unexplainable--influence the amount and quality
-of nectar secreted by a given plant.
-
-The danger of overstocking is largely imaginary, yet in establishing
-a large apiary it is of course essential to look to the natural
-resources of the location, and especially to decide only upon a place
-where two or more of the leading honey-producing plants are present in
-great numbers. In the North, willows, alder, maples, dandelion, fruit
-blossoms, tulip tree (frequently called whitewood), locust, clovers
-(white, alsike, crimson, and mammoth red), with alfalfa and melilot,
-chestnut, linden or basswood, Indian corn, buckwheat, fireweed,
-willow-herb, knotweeds, mints, cleome, golden-rods, Spanish needle, and
-asters may be cited as the chief sources of pollen and honey; and of
-these the tulip tree, locust, white clover, alfalfa, melilot, linden,
-and buckwheat furnish most of the surplus honey. The fruit blossoms,
-with the exception of raspberry, come so early that a small proportion
-only of the colonies are sufficiently strong to store surplus, and of
-course this statement applies with still more force to plants which
-blossom before apple, pear, cherry, etc. Some of the clovers, mustard,
-rape, cultivated teasel, chestnut, barberry, sumac coral berry,
-pleurisy root, fireweed, borage, mints, willow-herb, Spanish needles,
-cleome, etc., though yielding well, are only found abundantly over
-certain areas, and do not therefore supply any considerable portion
-of the honey that appears on the market, though when any of them are
-plentiful in a certain locality the bee keeper located there will find
-in nearly all cases that the surplus honey is greatly increased thereby.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 44.--Willow herb (_Epilobium angustifolium_). A,
-young flower: _s_, stigma turned back: _a_, anthers; _l_, lobe or pod.
-B, older flower: _s_, stigma turned forward; _a_, anthers: _l_, lobe.
-C, spike of flowers. D, section of pollen grain: _e_, extine; _i_,
-intine; _ti_, thick intine; _f_, fovilla. E, growing point of pollen
-grain: _e, e_, extine; _i, i_, intine; _f_, fovilla; _pt_, pollen tube.
-(From Cheshire.)]
-
-In the middle section of our country, from Maryland, Virginia, and
-North Carolina westward, most of the sources named above are present,
-although the maples (particularly hard maple) furnish less, and fruit
-bloom, the clovers, linden, and buckwheat are not as great yielders
-as in the North. Sourwood or sorrel tree, mountain laurels, sour gum
-or tupelo, huckleberry, cowpea, magnolia, and persimmon make up in
-part for these, the sourwood being especially important, while in some
-localities certain species of asters yield very abundantly. The tulip
-tree (known commonly as poplar) is a greater yielder than in the North,
-while in the western portion of the middle section the Rocky Mountain
-bee plant or cleome and more extensive areas of alfalfa and melilot are
-very important sources.
-
-In the more southern States fruit bloom is far from being as great a
-source of honey as in the North, though with the extension of orange
-groves in Florida and Louisiana an increased production of very fine
-honey maybe looked for in those States. The titi, magnolia, palmetto,
-and black mangrove yield well in some parts, and sour gum (tupelo or
-pepperidge), cotton, and pennyroyal are sources not to be overlooked.
-In Texas horsemint and mesquite, the latter also extending farther
-West, furnish fine yields, while many mountain localities of southern
-California are clothed with white and black sages--wonderful honey
-producers. In certain localities there the orange and other fruit
-orchards, and also wild buckwheat, give the bees excellent pasturage
-for a portion of the year.
-
-Certain small homopterous insects, such as plant-lice, bark-lice,
-mealy-wings, and some leaf-hoppers, which congregate on the leaves or
-bark of various plants and trees, notably pines, oaks, and beeches,
-and suck their juices, secrete a sweet liquid, which is often taken
-up by bees as it falls on the surrounding vegetation. This secretion,
-commonly known as honeydew, or plant-louse honey, is usually of an
-inferior qua lit y, though that from pine-tree aphides is sometimes
-fairly good. Most of it granulates very soon after having been
-gathered, sometimes even before the cells have been sealed.
-
-Under peculiar conditions of the atmosphere sweet exudations, also
-known as honeydew, drop from the leaves of certain plants and are
-eagerly taken up by the bees. This substance is sometimes very abundant
-and of excellent quality. It should not, however, be confounded with
-the secretions of extra-floral glands such as are possessed by the
-cowpea, horse bean, partridge pea, and vetches. These seem to be
-natural productions for the purpose of attracting insects to the
-plants, while the former is apparently an accidental exudation through
-the plant pores, brought about very likely by some sudden change of
-temperature. Both are, however, merely the saccharine juices of the
-plant, and when refined by the bees may become excellent honey.
-
-
- CULTIVATION OF HONEY PLANTS.
-
-In all localities there will probably be found intervals during
-the working season when bees will find very little or even nothing
-gather, unless supplied by cultivation. When possible it is ah best
-to till in such intervals with some honey-producing plant which at
-the same time furnishes some other product--fruit, grain, forage,
-green manure, or timber. The attempt to cultivate any plant for its
-honey alone has not thus far been found profitable, in practice,
-however promising it may seem theoretically. Catnip (_Nepeta
-cataria_), motherwort (_Leonurus cardiaca_), globe thistle (_Echinops
-sphærocephalus_), figwort (_Scrophularia nodosa_), bee balm (_Melissa
-officinalis_), borage (_Borago officinalis_), Rocky Mountain cleome
-(_Cleome serrulata_), melilot or sweet clover (_Melilotus alba_), and
-linden (_Tilia americana_) have all been recommended repeatedly and
-tried here and there somewhat extensively. But thus far the hope of
-securing a sufficient increase in the crop of honey to pay for the
-cultivation of these plants has in all cases had to be abandoned.
-With the appreciation in value of agricultural lands the prospects
-for the profitable cultivation of any crop for honey alone are still
-further removed. Yet the writer is fully convinced that in the future,
-especially in the older portions of our country, eminent success in
-bee raising will require much more attention to the furnishing of
-artificial pasturage for the bees, a close study, in fact, of the
-bee flora of one's locality, and a systematic effort to supply the
-deficiencies by sowing self-propagating honey plants, and such as may
-be cultivated with profit for other reasons besides their honey yield.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 45.--Wagner a flat pea (_Lathyrus sylvestris
-wagneri_).]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 46.--Dwarf Essex or winter rape (_Brassica napus_).]
-
-Among those plants which have just been mentioned as having been
-cultivated at various times for their honey alone, the linden for shade
-and ornament as well as for timber, catnip for sale as an herb or to
-secure its seed, and melilot for forage or green manuring are the only
-ones which, under present conditions, might in some cases be profitably
-cultivated. There may be introduced with advantage, however, all such
-honey-producing plants as, with one sowing or planting, will readily
-propagate themselves and without cultivation extend their area along
-roadsides and over waste lands, always excepting of course such as may
-become troublesome weeds. For this purpose most of the plants referred
-to above are available, and many others which like these are adapted to
-one portion or another of our country might be added, as, for example,
-pleurisy root or butterfly weed (_Asclepias tuberosa_), Indian currant
-or coral berry (_Symphoricarpos symphoricarpos_), viper's bugloss
-(_Echium vulgare_), lady's thumb (_Polygonum persicaria_), horsemint
-(_Monarda citriodora_), willow-herb (_Epilobium angustifolium_),
-etc., but of course it can not be expected that they will thrive and
-thoroughly establish themselves without further attention, except
-in such localities as present very favorable conditions for their
-growth. Furthermore, there is always the risk that a plant which yields
-honey abundantly in one part of the country may not do so in another
-region, even though it grows well, so that it is necessary in most
-cases, especially with wild plants, to test them anew before extensive
-introduction, no matter how well established their reputation as honey
-producers may be elsewhere.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 47.--Summer or bird rape (_Brassica napus_).]
-
-Among plants of economic value in other directions fruit trees and
-shrubs are to be counted as of much importance to bees. The apple and
-the cherry yield well, the others less, though the gooseberry, were it
-more plentiful, would be of considerable value. Strawberry blossoms
-are, in general, visited sparingly and yield only a small amount, but
-the raspberry, coming later, when the colonies are stronger, is a most
-important source, greatly liked by the bees, and furnishing as fine a
-quality of honey as is known. Ten acres in raspberries will furnish
-pasturage for three weeks to 75 or 100 colonies of bees. Mustard for
-seed, and rape for pasture and seed, may be made to furnish much to
-the bees in early spring. Buckwheat honey is dark and strong, but is
-relished by some, and when well ripened is good winter food for bees,
-so that whenever this plant can be made to blossom at a time when the
-bees find nothing better and a crop of grain can also be harvested from
-it, a plentiful supply should by all means be sown: the clovers, white,
-alsike, crimson, and mammoth or medium red may be sown for pasturage,
-hay, forage, for purposes of green manuring, or for seed, and honey of
-fine quality obtained if a sufficient number of blossoms are allowed to
-appear.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 48.--Sacaline or giant knotweed (Polygonum
-sachalinense).]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 49.--Russian or hairy vetch (Vicia villosa).]
-
-Alfalfa (_Medicago sativa_), a most important honey producer as well
-as perennial forage crop, can be grown over a much greater area of the
-United States than has heretofore been generally supposed. Sainfoin
-(_Onobrychis sativa_) and serradella (_Ornithopus sativus_), both most
-excellent honey plants, have not received the attention they merit
-either North or South. Japan clover (_Lespedeza striata_) is grown
-profitably in the South, and more even might be expected from the
-introduction of sulla clover (_Hedysarum coronarium_) there, the latter
-a great honey producer. Chicory, even on poor soil, is a good honey and
-pollen plant. Northern bee keepers should try the dwarf (quick-growing)
-varieties of cowpeas (_Vigna sinensis_) extensively grown in the
-South for forage and green manuring. Vetches are of recognized value
-for the same purposes, especially the Russian hairy vetch (_Vicia
-villosa_). Sacaline (_Polygonum sachalinense_) and flat peas (_Lathyrus
-sylvestris_) are visited by bees, and in certain situations may be
-found of value otherwise. Peppermint (_Mentha piperita_) yields well in
-July and August. Parsnips (_Pastinaca sativa_) when grown for seed are
-assiduously visited by bees for honey during June. July, and August.
-Gorse or furze (_Ulex europæus_) for forage may prove valuable in some
-localities here, as it is highly esteemed in some parts of Europe.
-Its odorous yellow blossoms, much frequented by bees, appear in May.
-Filbert bushes (_Corylus avellana_) will grow in many portions of our
-country, yielding, besides nuts, an abundance of early pollen, even in
-February or March. The carob tree (_Ceratonia siliqua_) succeeds in the
-Southwest, yielding a crop of economic value, besides a harvest in
-late summer for bees. It is also a fine ornamental tree. There are no
-finer shade or ornamental trees for the lawn or roadside than lindens
-(basswoods) and horse-chestnuts. To these chestnut, locust, sourwood,
-and tulip trees may be added. The timber of all is useful; and since
-they are great honey yielders their propagation near the apiary is very
-desirable.
-
-Bees range ordinarily within 2 or 3 miles in all directions from their
-homes, but sometimes go farther. Pasturage to be especially valuable,
-however, should be within 2 miles, and less than a mile distant to
-the main source is quite preferable. The advantage is probably not so
-much in the saving of time in going back and forth, for bees fly with
-great rapidity, but because when sudden storms arise, especially those
-accompanied by high winds, the heavily laden bees are more likely to
-reach home safely and the hive will not be decimated of its gathering
-force.
-
-
- BEES AS CROSS-FERTILIZERS.
-
-Allusion has already been made in this bulletin to the importance of
-bees in the complete cross fertilization of fruit blossoms and to the
-fact that certain varieties of pears have been found to be completely
-self-sterile, requiring, therefore, pollen from other varieties before
-they can develop perfect seeds and fruits. It is interesting to study
-the ways in which cross fertilization of plants is secured through the
-visits of insects. The part that bees perform in the development and
-perpetuation of numerous ornamental and economic plants is thereby
-clearly shown. Space will only permit the introduction here of one or
-two examples. The willow-herb, which is an abundant secreter of nectar
-and thus attracts bees freely, illustrates one feature in pollination
-by bees. A young blossom of this plant (fig. 44, A) shows the stamens
-maturing and shedding their pollen, while the pistil remains curved
-downward and with closed stigmas. In the older flower (fig. 44, B), the
-stamens having shed their pollen and begun to wither, the pistil has
-straightened up and exposed its stigmatic surfaces for the reception
-of the pollen which a bee chancing to come from a younger blossom is
-likely to bring. Self-pollination is thus positively prevented and
-cross fertilization is insured.
-
-In the mountain laurel the anthers are held securely by little pockets
-in the corolla, so that as the flower opens the stamens are found bent
-over (fig. 50, B) ready to be liberated (fig. 50, C) by the visit of a
-bee. When the stamen flies up the pollen is discharged from the anther
-and dusted on the underside of the bee. The latter as it alights on the
-next flower naturally touches the stigma first and rubs off some of the
-pollen it has brought from the last flower visited. It then proceeds to
-secure the nectar of the flower on which it has just alighted, and in
-doing this liberates the stamens of this flower and gets dusted again
-with pollen, which it carries to the next flower.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 50.--Mountain laurel (_Kalmia latifolia_). A,
-flowering branch. B, expanded flower: _ap_, anther pocket. C, section
-of expanded flower: _ap, ap_, anther pockets; _s_, stigma: _a_, anther
-(free); _pg_, pollen grains in shower: _ca_, calyx. D, section of
-flower bud: _ap_, anther pocket. E, stamen more enlarged: _a_, anther;
-_po_, pores; _pg_, pollen grains; _f_, filament. (From Cheshire.)]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 51.--Apple (_Pyrus malus_), showing structure of
-flower and result of imperfect fertilization. A, blossom: _s_, stigmas;
-_a_, anthers; _p_, petal; _s′_, sepal; _ca_, calyx; _d_, dissepiment.
-B, cross section of imperfectly developed fruit: _f, f_, fertilized
-carpels; _u_, unfertilised carpel. (From Cheshire.)]
-
-The cross section of an imperfectly developed apple shown herewith
-(fig. 51, B) illustrates the importance of complete fertilization of
-fruit blossoms. The seed vessel at u shows only an abortive seed,
-and the side of the fruit nearest this point is also correspondingly
-undeveloped. This is owing to imperfect or complete lack of
-fertilization of this carpel, five distinct fertilizations being
-necessary to produce a perfect fruit. Bees being, during the period
-of fruit blossoms, the most abundant insects that might effect the
-necessary distribution of the pollen of these flowers, the importance
-is at once seen of having an apiary in or near the orchard. Continued
-rainy or cold weather may keep the bees confined to their hives much of
-the time during fruit bloom, hence it is advisable to have them near
-at hand and in numbers proportionate to the size of the orchards, so
-that even a few hours of sunshine will assure their making a thorough
-distribution of the pollen. In the absence of accurate experiments
-regarding the number of colonies of bees required to insure proper
-fertilization in the orchard, and also in view of the fact that
-surrounding conditions vary greatly, it is difficult to say exactly how
-many colonies are positively necessary for a given number of trees.
-However, four or five well-populated hives for every hundred large
-apple trees will doubtless suffice, even though no other hive bees are
-within a mile of the orchard. The bees of a neighbor's apiary are often
-quite sufficient for the orchardist's purpose, the benefit resulting
-from their labors being, therefore, mutual, though the orchardist
-doubtless derives in this case greater advantage from them than does
-their owner himself. Escaped swarms lodged in forest trees in the
-vicinity of the orchard are sometimes sufficiently numerous to perform
-the work well. The great value of bees as cross fertilizers makes their
-destruction a serious injury to the interests of the fruit grower.
-Therefore spraying with arsenicals during fruit bloom should never be
-practiced. The injurious insects can be reached quite as well before
-and after the blooming period.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 52.--Heath-like wild aster (_Aster ericoides_).
-(Original.)]
-
-
- Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.
-
- Plate III.
-
-
- [Illustration]
-
-
- Alfalfa (_Medicago sativa_).
-
-
- Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.
-
- Plate IV.
-
- [Illustration]
-
- Esparcet or Sainfoin (_Onobrychis sativa_).
-
- 1, 2. 3, 4, parts of flower; 5, pod; 6, 7, seed
-
-
- Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.
-
- Plate V.
-
- [Illustration]
-
- Sweet Clover or Melilot (_Melilotus alba_).
-
-
- Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.
-
- Plate VI.
-
- [Illustration]
-
- Acacia (_Acacia constricta_),
-
-
- Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.
-
- Plate VII.
-
- [Illustration]
-
- Mesquite (_Prosopis juliflora_).
-
-
- Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.
-
- Plate VIII.
-
- [Illustration]
-
- Blue Weed or Viper's Bugloss (_Echium vulgare_).
-
-
- Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.
-
- Plate IX.
-
- [Illustration]
-
- Crimson Clover (_Trifolium incarnatum_).
-
-
- Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.
-
- Plate X.
-
- [Illustration]
-
- Alsike Clover (_Trifolium hybridum_).
-
-
- HONEY AND POLLEN PRODUCING PLANTS.
-
-In the following lists the intention has been merely to indicate
-the main sources from which our hive bees secure honey and pollen.
-Anything like a complete enumeration of those plants of the United
-States visited by hive bees would occupy far too much space for a brief
-treatise like this. Many plants are therefore omitted which secrete
-nectar freely but which are abundant only locally; others are left
-out because they secrete only at rare intervals, or under peculiar
-conditions, or are visited by bees only when some better honey source
-fails; others again because, though secreting well and readily yielding
-their honey or pollen stores to the bees, they are not often present
-in sufficient numbers in any one locality to enable the bees to add
-materially to their surplus stores. Such plants are, however, often of
-great value because they cause the bees to rear brood during intervals
-between the times of storing surplus honey and thus keep the colonies
-populous for successive harvests.
-
-Besides the main honey plants it would be easy to name for any
-locality quite a number of secondary importance which are frequented
-by honey bees, yet even though the localities were but a few miles
-apart scarcely any two lists would agree either as to the plants to
-be included or as to their relative importance. The following honey
-and pollen producing plants are therefore of wide distribution or of
-special importance in certain localities.
-
-For convenience separate lists are given for the three sections of the
-United States made by the parallels of 35° and 40° N. The flora of the
-western portion of each section differs of course greatly from that of
-the eastern part of the same section. Only the most important honey
-yielders among those of local interest in the extreme Southwest and
-the West have been included in the lists, and the chief range of each
-has been noted. An effort has been made to indicate by the type the
-relative importance of the plants as pollen and honey producers.
-
-
- NORTH AND NORTHEAST.
-
- [Above 40° N.]
-
- Red or Soft Maple (_Acer rubrum_) April.
- Alders (_Alnus_) April.
- Elm (_Ulmus_) April.
- Willows (_Salix_) Apr.-May.
- _Dandelion_ (_Taraxacum taraxacum_ = _T. officinale_ of
- Gray's Manual) Apr.-May.
- _Sugar_, _Rock_, or _Hard Maple_ (_Acer saccharum_ = _A.
- saccharinum_ of Gray's Manual) Apr.-May.
- _Juneberry_, or _Service Berry_ (_Amelanchier canadensis_) May.
- Wild Crab Apples (_Pyrus_) May.
- GOOSEBERRY and CURRANT (_Ribes_) May.
- PEACH, CHERRY, and PLUM (_Prunus_) May.
- PEAR and APPLE (_Pyrus_) May.
- Huckleberries and Blueberries (_Gaylussacia_ and _Vaccinium_) May-June.
- COMMON, BLACK, or YELLOW LOCUST (_Robinia pseudacacia_) May-June.
- European Horse-chestnut (_Æsculus hippocastanum_) May-June.
- Common Barberry (_Berberis vulgaris_) May-June.
- TULIP TREE, or "WHITEWOOD" (_Liriodendron tulipifera_) May-June.
- Grapevines (_Vitis_) May-June.
- Rape (_Brassica napus_) May-June.
- _White Mustard_ and _Black Mustard_ (_Brassica alba_ and
- _B. nigra_) June.
- RASPBERRY (_Rubus_) June.
- WHITE CLOVER (_Trifolium repens_) June-July.
- ALSIKE CLOVER (_Trifolium hybridum_) June-July.
- Edible Chestnut (_Castanea dentata_ = _C. sativa_ var.
- _americana_ of Gray's Manual) June-July.
- ALFALFA, or LUCERN (_Medicago sativa_) June-July.
- LINDEN, or BASSWOOD (_Tilia americana_) July.
- Smooth Sumac (_Rhus glabra_) July.
- _Buttonbush_ (_Cephalanthus occidentalis_) July.
- MELILOT, BOKHARA, or SWEET CLOVER (_Melilotus alba_) July-Aug.
- Indian Corn (Zea mags) July-Aug.
- Melon, Cucumber, Squash, Pumpkin (_Citrullus_, _Cucumis_,
- and _Cucurbita_). July-Aug.
- _Fireweed_ (_Erechthites hieracifolia_) July-Sept.
- Chicory (_Cichorium intybus_) July-Sept.
- GREAT WILLOW-HERB (_Epilobium angustifolium_) July-Aug.
- KNOTWEEDS (_Polygonum_, especially _P. pennsylvanicum_ and
- _P. persicaria_). Aug.-Sept.
- BUCKWHEAT (_Fagopyrum fagopyrum_ = _F. esculentum_ of
- Gray's Manual). Aug.-Sept.
- Indian Currant, or Coral Berry (_Symphoricarpos symphoricarpos_
- = _S. vulgaris_ of Gray's Manual) Aug.-Sept.
- Thorough wort, or Boneset (_Eupatorium perfoliatum_) Aug.-Sept.
- _Bur Marigolds_ (_Bidens_, especially SPANISH NEEDLES,
- _Bidens bipinnata_). Aug.-Oct.
- Wild Asters (_Aster_) Aug.-Oct.
- GOLDEN-RODS (_Solidago_) Aug.-Oct.
-
- MIDDLE SECTION.
-
- [Between 35° and 40° N.]
-
- Redbud (_Cercis canadensis_) Mar.-Apr.
- Alder (_Alnus rugosa_ = _A. serrulata_ of Gray's Manual) Mar.-Apr.
- Red or Soft Maple (_Acer rubrum_) Mar.-Apr.
- Elm (_Ulmus_) Mar.-Apr.
- Willows (_Salix_) Mar.-May.
- _Dandelion_ (_Taraxacum taraxacum_ = _T. officinale_ of
- Gray's Manual) Apr.-May.
- _Apricot_ (_Prunus armeniaca_) Apr.-May.
- _Juneberry_ or _Service Berry_ (_Amelanchier canadensis_) Apr.-May.
- Wild Crab Apples (_Pyrus_) Apr.-May.
- _Gooseberry_ and _Currant_ (_Ribes_) Apr.-May.
- Rhododendrons (_Rhododendron_) Apr.-May.
- _Peach_, _Cherry_, and _Plum_ (_Prunus_) Apr.-May.
- _Pear_ and _Apple_ (_Pyrus_) Apr.-May.
- CRIMSON CLOVER (_Trifolium incarnatum_) Apr.-May.
- Huckleberries and Blueberries (_Gaylussacia_ and _Vaccinium_) May.
- American Holly (_Ilex opaca_) May.
- _Black Gum_, _Sour Gum_, _Tupelo_ or _Pepperidge_
- (_Nyssa aquatica_ = _N. sylvatica_ of Gray's Manual) May.
- Manzanitas (_Arctostaphylos_) (California) May.
- COMMON, BLACK, or YELLOW LOCUST (_Robinia pseudacacia_) May.
- Barberry (_Berberis canadensis_) May.
- TULIP TREE, or "POPLAR" (_Liriodendron tulipifera_) May.
- Mountain Laurel (_Kalmia latifolia_) May-June.
- Grapevines (_Vitis_) May-June.
- _Persimmon_ (_Diospyros virginiana_) May-June.
- WHITE CLOVER (_Trifolium repens_) May-June.
- _Alsike Clover_ (_Trifolium hybridum_) May-June.
- RASPBERRY (_Rubus_) May-June.
- COWPEA (_Vigna sinensis_) May-Aug.
- EDIBLE CHESTNUT (_Castanet dentata_ = _C. saliva_ var.
- _americana_ of Gray's Manual) June.
- _Chinquapin_ (_Castanea pumila_) June.
- Catalpas, or Indian Bean Trees (_Catalpa_) June.
- MAGNOLIA, or SWEET BAY (_Magnolia glauca_) June
- LINDEN, or "LINN" (_Tilia americana_ and _T. heterophylla_) June.
- SOURWOOD, or SORREL TREE (_Oxydendrum arboreum_) June-July.
- _Oxeye Daisy_, or _Whiteweed_ (_Chrysanthemum leucanthemum_) June-July.
- ALFALFA (_Medicago saliva_) (West) June-Aug.
- MELILOT, BOKHARA, or SWEET CLOVER (_Melilotus alba_) June-Aug.
- Smooth Sumac (_Rhus glabra_) July.
- _Buttonbush_ (_Cephalanthus occidentalis_) July.
- CLEOME, or "ROCKY MOUNTAIN BEE PLANT" (_Cleome serrulata_ =
- _C. integrifolia_ of Gray's Manual) (West) July-Aug.
- Indian Corn (_Zea mays_) July-Aug.
- Cucumber. Melon. Squash. Pumpkin (_Cucumis_, _Citrullus_,
- and _Cucurbita_) July-Aug.
- _Knotweeds_ (_Polygonum_, especially _P. pennsylvanicum_ and
- _P. persicaria_) July-Sept.
- _Buckwheat_ (_Fagopyrum fagopyrum_ = _F. esculentum_ of
- Gray's Manual) Aug.-Sept.
- Wild Asters (_Aster_, especially HEATH-LIKE ASTER,
- _Aster ericoides_) Aug.-Oct.
- Thoroughwort, or Boneset (_Eupatorium perfoliatum_) Aug.-Oct.
- Bur Marigolds (_Bidens_, especially SPANISH NEEDLES,
- _Bidens bipinnata_) Aug.-Oct.
- Golden-rods (_Solidago_) Aug.-Oct.
-
-
- SOUTH.
-
- [Below 35° N.]
-
- Redbud (_Cercis canadensis_) Feb.-Mar.
- Alder (_Alnus rugosa_ = _A. serrulata_ of Gray's Manual ) Feb.-Mar.
- Red or Soft Maple (_Acer rubrum_) Feb.-Mar.
- Elm (_Ulmus_) Feb.-Mar.
- Willows (_Salix_) Feb.-Mar.
- Dandelion (_Taraxacum taraxacum_ = _T. officinale_ of
- Gray's Manual) Feb.-Mar.
- _Apricot_ (_Prunus armeniaca_) Feb.-Mar.
- WILD PENNYROYAL (_Hedeoma pulegioides_) Feb.-Mar.
- Carolina Cherry, or Laurel Cherry (_Prunus caroliniana_) March.
- Juueberry, or Service Berry (_Amelanchier canadensis_) March.
- ORANGE and _Lemon_ (_Citrus_) Mar.-Apr.
- _Cottonwoods_, or _Poplars_ (_Populus_) Mar.-Apr.
- TITI (_Cliftonia monophylla_) (Florida and southern Georgia,
- westward.) Mar.-Apr.
- Gooseberry and Currant (_Ribes_) Mar.-Apr.
- _Peach_, _Cherry_, and _Plum_ (_Prunus_) Mar.-Apr.
- _Pear_ and Apple (_Pyrus_) Mar.-Apr.
- Huckleberries and Blueberries (_Gaylussacia_ and _Vaccinium_) April.
- _Crimson Clover_ (_Trifolium incarnatum_) April.
- BLACK GUM, SOUR GUM, TUPELO, or PEPPERIDGE
- (_Nyssa aquatica_ = _N. sylvatica_ of Gray's Manual) April.
- BALL, or BLACK SAGE (_Romona stachyoides_, _R. palmeri_,
- etc. = _Audibertia stachyoides_, etc., of the Botany of
- California) (California) April.
- GALLBERRY, or HOLLY (_Ilex glabra_) Apr.-May.
- Manzanitas (_Arctostaphylos California_) Apr.-May.
- Acacias (_Acacia_) Apr.-May.
- _Common_, _Black_, or _Yellow Locust_ (_Robinia pseudacacia_) Apr.-May.
- Persimmon (_Diospyros virginiana_) Apr.-May.
- EDIBLE CHESTNUT (_Castanea dentata_ = _C. sativa_ var.
- _americana_ of Gray's Manual) Apr.-May.
- Chinquapin (_Castanea pumila_) Apr.-May.
- Catalpas (_Catalpa_) Apr.-May.
- MAGNOLIAS (_Magnolia_) Apr.-May.
- Rhododendrons, Rosebays, Azaleas (_Rhododendron_) Apr.-May-June.
- MESQUITE (_Prosopis juliflora_) (Texas and westward) Apr.-July.
- _Cowpea_ (_Vigna sinensis_) Apr.-Aug.
- TULIP TREE, or "POPLAR," (_Liriodendron tulipifera_) May.
- Mountain Laurel (_Kalmia latifolia_) May.
- Grapevines (_Vitis_) May.
- _Raspberry_ (_Rubus_) May.
- China Berry, China Tree, or Pride of India (_Melia azedarach_) May.
- WHITE SAGE (_Ramona polystachya_ = _Audibertia polystachya_
- of the Botany of California) (California) May-June.
- SOURWOOD, or SORREL TREE (_Oxydendrum arboreum_) May-June.
- SAW PALMETTO (_Serenoa serrulata_) (coasts of Georgia
- and Florida) May-June.
- HORSEMINT (_Monarda citriodora_) May-July.
- BANANA (_Musa sapientum_) May-Sept.
- LINDEN, or "LINN" (_Tilia americana_, _T. pubescens_, and
- _T. heterophylla_) June.
- _Bed Bay_ (_Persea borbonia_ = _P. carolinensis_ of
- Gray's Manual) June.
- Indian Corn (_Zea mays_) June-July.
- _Cucumber_, _Melon_, _Squash_, _Pumpkin_ (_Cucumis_,
- _Citrullus_, and _Cucurbita_) June-July.
- BLACKWOOD or BLACK MANGROVE (Aricennia nitida) (Florida) June-July.
- ALFALFA (_Medicago sativa_) June-Aug.
- MELILOT, BOKHARA, or SWEET CLOVER (_Melilotus alba_) June-Aug.
- COTTON (_Gossypium herbaceum_) June-Aug.
- WILD BUCKWHEAT (_Eriogonum fasciculatum_) (California) June-Oct.
- CABBAGE PALMETTO (_Sabal palmetto_) (coasts of South Carolina.
- Georgia, and Florida) July-Aug.
- _Japan_ or _Bush Clover_ (_Lespedeza striata_) Aug.-Sept.
- Bur Marigolds (_Bidens_, especially SPANISH NEEDLES,
- _Bidens bipinnata_) Aug.-frost.
- Wild Asters (_Aster_, especially HEATH-LIKE ASTER,
- _Aster ericoides_) Aug.-frost.
- Golden-rods (_Solidago_) Aug.-frost.
- BLUE GUM and RED GUM (_Eucalyptus globulus_ and _E. rostrata_)
- (California). Dec.-Mar.
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER VII.
-
- =SPRING MANIPULATION.=
-
-
-The first examination in the spring should be mainly for the purpose
-of ascertaining whether or not the honey stores have been exhausted.
-It should be early, and hence not so extended as to risk the loss of
-much warmth from the brood apartment. Merely lifting one edge of the
-quilt or, if the bottom board is a loose one, tipping the hive back so
-as to get a view in between the combs will often suffice. Should there
-not be at least the equivalent of two full frames of honey it is best
-to supply the deficiency at once. Without disturbing the brood full
-combs may be substituted at each side for the empty ones. If combs
-stored with honey and sealed over are not in reserve liquid honey or
-sugar sirup may be poured into empty ones and placed in the hives at
-night. A less dauby plan is to use one or more feeders directly over
-the brood nest, supplying several pounds of food at once. An excellent
-way is to give at one time all they need in the shape of a cake of bee
-candy, made by mixing fine sugar with just enough honey to produce a
-stiff dough. This cake of candy should be wrapped in heavy paper (half
-parchment, or such as is used for wrapping butter is good) and laid on
-top of the frames, after having punctured the paper in several places
-with a pencil or sharp stick to give the bees ready access. Two or
-three twigs or strips of wood laid across the frames before the cake is
-placed on them will also give the bees a better opportunity to reach
-the food.
-
-If the food be given in small quantities brood rearing will be
-encouraged and still greater supplies of food will be called for,
-rendering it absolutely necessary to give a large amount at once or
-continue the feeding until natural sources fully supply the needs
-of the bees and brood, otherwise both may starve. Three pounds of
-sugar dissolved in one quart of water will make a suitable sirup for
-spring feeding. Dry sugar may be used instead of sirup. The bees will
-liquefy it themselves if they have access to water. For stimulative
-purposes honey; s better than sugar, "strained honey" being better than
-extracted. This is because of the greater amount of pollen which the
-strained product contains, the pollen being highly nitrogenous, hence
-capable of building up muscular tissue. But if the liquid honey is
-one-half more in price per pound than sugar the latter would doubtless
-be the more economical, certainly so if a plentiful supply of good
-pollen in the combs or fresh from the fields can be had. Eye flour put
-in sunny places and sprinkled with honey to attract the bees will be
-collected until new pollen comes.
-
-When the weather has become sufficiently settled to render safe the
-inspection of the brood combs, or, in general, when the bees fly the
-greater part of each clear day, the work of the queen may be inspected.
-Should the comb having the largest area of brood in it be toward one
-side of the hive it is best to locate it as near the center as may
-be, placing on either side successively those combs having smaller
-circles of brood and on each side of these the combs containing no
-brood, but well stored with pollen, while those having honey only
-will come still outside of these. The brood nest will then have an
-opportunity to develop equally in all directions. Empty combs are of
-little use at this time outside of the brood nest as thus arranged,
-and should be replaced by combs of honey if the latter is needed, or
-removed altogether. If the combs are well crowded with bees and the
-queen shows by her regular and compact placing of the brood, as well
-as by the quantity she seems to have, that she is vigorous and thus
-capable of accomplishing more than any ordinary brood nest will require
-of her at this time of the year, a frame filled with worker comb may
-be slipped into the center of the brood nest. This will be taken
-possession of immediately by the bees, cleaned and warmed up, whereupon
-the queen will soon have it filled with eggs. From time to time other
-combs may be added in the same manner. If cautiously and judiciously
-followed this plan, supplemented by liberal stores, will increase the
-brood area and eventually the population of the hive. But the utmost
-caution is needed, for if done too early cool weather may cause the
-bees to cluster more closely and result in the chilling of some part
-of the brood which has thus been spread. The very object sought is not
-only missed, but the loss of brood will prove a serious setback to
-the colony. The escape of any of the warmth generated by the bees, as
-also sudden changes in the weather, should be guarded against. Warm
-covering above and outer protection are therefore absolute necessities
-if the best results are to be attained. With favorable weather for the
-development of brood it is certain that stimulative feeding, if made
-necessary by the fact that the natural honey resources of the country
-will not alone bring the strength of the colony fairly up to the
-desired standard by the opening of the harvest, is to be begun six to
-seven weeks before the opening of the honey flow from which surplus is
-to be expected.
-
-If, however, this honey flow comes so early that it is likely to be
-preceded by weather unfavorable to the development of brood, it will be
-necessary to allow for this by beginning the stimulation even earlier,
-so that it may be done more gradually, and the greatest care will have
-to be taken to retain all the heat of the brood nest. Should the main
-flow be preceded by a lighter one, especially if the latter comes some
-weeks before the chief harvest, it may be important to watch the brood
-nest closely lest it becomes clogged with honey to the exclusion of
-brood, inclining the bees not to enter surplus receptacles placed above
-and causing the colony to be weak in numbers later in the season. This
-state of affairs can be easily avoided by the timely use of the honey
-extractor, since the brood combs, emptied of the honey which the
-workers in an emergency have stored wherever they found vacant cells,
-are made available for the queen. Before the main harvest opens it may
-even be necessary in order to keep the combs filled with brood to feed
-back gradually this extracted honey or its equivalent; but by taking
-it away and returning it gradually the object sought will have been
-accomplished, namely, keeping the combs stocked with brood until the
-harvest is well under way, or as long as the larger population thus
-gained in the hive can be made available.
-
-It is in this getting workers ready for the early harvest--hives over
-flowing, as it were, with bees--that the skill of the apiarist is taxed
-to its utmost. The work properly begins with the close of the summer
-preceding the harvest, for the first steps toward successful wintering
-should be taken then, and unless wintered successfully the colony can
-not be put in shape to take full advantage of an early honey harvest.
-
-Good judgment in the application of the hints given in this chapter,
-with careful and frequent attention, will bring colonies to the chief
-spring or early summer flow of honey in good condition, with plenty
-of bees and with combs well stocked with brood, provided they have
-wintered well and have good queens.
-
-
- TRANSFERRING.
-
-If colonies have been purchased in box hives, it is advisable at the
-first favorable opportunity to get them into frame hives.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 53.--Transferring--drumming the bees from a box
-hive into a frame hire. (Original.)]
-
-Early in the season--that is, in April or May in middle latitudes,
-before the brood nest has reached its greatest extension and while the
-hive contains the least honey--it is not a difficult matter to drive
-the bees from their combs, cut out the latter, and fit them into
-frames. If the combs thus fitted in are held temporarily in place in
-the frames, the bees, under whose care they should be placed at once,
-will fasten them securely in a few hours or days at most. To drive
-the bees from the box hive proceed as follows: Toward the middle of
-a pleasant day blow smoke into the hive to be transferred, and after
-the bees have been given a few minutes in which to lap up their fill
-of honey, invert the hive and place over the open end an empty box,
-or the frame hive itself, making whichever is used fit closely on
-the hive (fig. 53). By rapping continuously for some minutes on the
-hive the bees will be impelled to leave it and cluster in the upper
-box. A loud humming will denote that they are moving. The hive thus
-vacated may then be taken into a closed room and one side pried off to
-facilitate the removal of the combs. The box containing the bees is to
-be placed meanwhile on the spot originally occupied by the box hive,
-the bees being allowed to go in and out without restraint, only two
-precautions being necessary, namely, to shade the box well and provide
-for ventilation by propping it up from the bottom, leaving also, if
-possible, an opening at the top. When the combs have been fitted into
-frames, the hive containing them is placed on the original stand and
-the bees shaken from the box in front of it.
-
-In filling the frames with combs cut from a box hive, the largest and
-straightest sheets having the most sealed worker brood in them should
-be selected first and so cut that the frame will slip over them snugly,
-taking pains, as far as possible, to have the comb placed in the frame
-in the same position in which it was built, since most of the cells,
-instead of being horizontal, are inclined upward, the inclination of
-the deeper store cells being greatest. The comb, if not heavy, can be
-held in place temporarily by slender wire nails pushed through holes
-punched in the side and top bars. Before the introduction of wire
-nails the writer used long thorns pulled from thorn-apple trees, which
-served the purpose very well. In the case of combs heavy with honey
-or brood or pieced more or less it will be safer to use, in addition
-to a few wire nails, a pair or two of transferring sticks. These are
-simply slender strips of wood slightly longer than the depth of the
-frame and notched at each end. By placing such a stick on either side
-of the comb and winding annealed wire around the top and bottom ends
-so as to draw the sticks firmly against the surface of the combs the
-latter will be held securely in the frames. The midrib between the rows
-of cells should be pressed neither to one side nor the other; thus,
-if cells on one side are deeper than those on the other, they should
-be shaved down, unless the honey will be cut into too much, in which
-case the comb maybe allowed to project on one side until it has been
-fastened in the frame and the hive has been generally put in order by
-the bees, the point being not to force them to try to manage too much
-running honey at one time, lest robbing be induced. In many instances
-the comb when pressed into the frame will seem to be so firm as not to
-need nails or sticks, but in the heat of the hive, and with the weight
-of the bees that will cluster on it to repair the cut edges and fasten
-them to the bars of the frame, unsupported combs are very apt to give
-way, creating disastrous confusion. Thus the sticks, nails, or their
-equivalent should always be used (fig. 54). All frames should be filled
-with perfectly straight combs so as to be interchangeable. With care in
-fitting in and some trimming and pressing into shape afterwards, fully
-three-fourths of the worker combs cut from box hives can be made into
-good, serviceable combs in frame hives. The process is much facilitated
-if such combs are used in the extractor during the first season or two
-after transferring.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 54.--Transferred comb and inserted queen cell.
-(Original.)]
-
-Should the time be near the swarming season the combs will be so filled
-with brood and honey that the task will be much greater, and the
-transfer should be postponed until three weeks after the first swarm
-issues. The brood left by the old queen will have matured and issued
-from the cells by that time, and the young queen, if no accident has
-happened to her, will have begun laying; yet there will usually be only
-eggs, with perhaps a few very young larvæ, present in the combs at this
-time, so that the cutting out and fitting of the latter into frames
-will not be as troublesome nor attended with so much waste as just
-before the swarm issued.
-
-Still another plan--one which it would not be best to employ before
-fairly warm weather has set in, but which will render the work of
-transferring the lightest--is to turn the box hive bottom upward and
-place on it the brood apartment of a frame hive, having in it frames
-filled with worker combs or with comb foundation, arranging at the same
-time to give the bees ready access from their combs to those above and
-no entrance to their hive except through the frame hive above. This can
-easily be done by making a temporary bottom board for the frame hive,
-with several holes through it, or with one large one about the size of
-the open end of the box hive. As soon as it is perceived that the queen
-has taken possession of the new combs--as she will be almost certain
-to do, especially if one of the combs placed above contains some
-brood--a piece of queen-excluding zinc placed over the opening between
-the two hives will keep her above, and three weeks later, when all the
-brood in the combs below has matured, the box hive may be removed and
-the combs transferred to frames, if worth using in this way; but if
-old or composed of drone cells or very irregular in shape these combs
-may be rendered into wax, after extracting any honey that may happen
-to be in them. Inverting the box hive will generally cause the bees
-to remove what honey they have stored in the combs. This honey will
-be utilized in building out the foundation placed in the added story,
-or, having these combs completed, the bees will store in them whatever
-remains. Should the queen fail to enter the superposed hive, the plan
-may be adopted of driving her with her workers into the added story, as
-described on page 72. When the lower combs have been nearly deserted it
-will be safe to assume that the queen has gone into the upper hive with
-the main force of workers, and the excluder zinc may be inserted.
-
-
- QUEENLESSNESS IN SPRING.
-
-The loss of a queen during winter or early spring can generally be
-discovered by noticing just at nightfall, after the first or second
-general flight, which colonies are restless and continue to buzz
-excitedly when the others are humming in a contented manner or have
-quieted down for the night. The workers of the queenless colony run in
-and out excitedly, searching over the front of the hive. Should it be
-opened they will not resent the intrusion, but, remaining on the combs,
-will at once set up a loud and prolonged buzzing. These symptoms become
-less pronounced from day to day. If a comb containing brood be inserted
-during this period it will be hailed with evident delight, manifested
-by the eager crowding of the bees from all sides toward it. A contented
-hum replaces the sound of mourning, and if young worker-larvæ are
-present preparations, as described on pages 88-89, are begun at once
-to rear a queen. However, if much reduced in numbers the colony should
-be joined to one with a queen, or several queenless ones united. The
-latter may be smoked and simply shaken or brushed together. But bees
-that have been queenless long when added to those that have not yet
-missed their own queen will frequently be killed at once. The queen
-should therefore be taken from her own bees and caged for thirty-six to
-forty-eight hours in the hive which has previously been queenless, and
-her own bees added when she is released. (See page 94.) A board leaned
-against the front of the hive will cause the bees to note their change
-in location when they fly out and they will then easily find their new
-quarters when returning from their flight.
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER VIII.
-
- =SECURING SURPLUS HONEY AND WAX.=
-
-
-If the colonies of bees have been brought to the opening of a given
-honey flow with a powerful population recently hatched it will require
-no great skill to secure a good crop, granted, of course, that the
-flowers actually do secrete the nectar. In the ordinary course of
-events some colonies are likely to come through to the early harvest
-in good shape, but if all those contained in a large apiary are in
-prime order at this time it is good evidence of skill on the part of
-the attendant, this even though the weather and other circumstances
-may have favored his work. To secure a yield of surplus honey the part
-remaining to be done, if all goes well, is merely to put the surplus
-receptacles in place, admit the bees, and remove the combs when filled
-and sealed. But if swarming complications arise the whole of the bee
-keeper's skill and ingenuity may again be called into requisition to
-keep the forces together and storing in the surplus receptacles. Should
-the expected harvest not come--that is, should the flowers from which
-the yield is anticipated not secrete honey, or should they bloom when
-the weather would not permit the bees to fly--of course no amount of
-skill could make up the deficiency. In such a case all that can be
-done is to carry the colonies through to the next honey yield in good
-shape--to keep up (by feeding if necessary) the populousness of the
-colonies. The flow may begin suddenly or before it is looked for; it
-may be excellent for only a very short time, a day or two even, and be
-cut off short in the midst of its greatest abundance. Thus the skill
-lies in having the colonies ready for whatever may come and a force
-sufficient to store the whole season's surplus in a few days.
-
-
- EXTRACTED HONEY.
-
-One of the most important points in securing extracted honey is to
-have a large stock of surplus combs. These, with the strong colonies
-of bees to utilize them, and the honey extractor, are the great
-requisites of the producer of extracted honey. As fast as the bees
-can cover and utilize them, these combs are added to the colonies,
-one or two at a time from the opening of the season until the brood
-apartment is full. As soon as more combs than the lower story will
-hold are needed a second story filled with combs may be added, or but
-two or three may be placed in it at one side with a division board
-next to them. It is a good plan to sort over the combs of the brood
-apartment, removing several of the less regular ones, or if all are
-alike as regards regularity and in having worker cells only, but some
-contain considerable honey and little brood, these are to be removed
-and the empty space filled in with good worker combs. The removed
-combs should be placed in the top story, which, if the weather and
-the strength of the colony permit, is to be filled out with combs at
-once. The strongest colonies will, of course, begin work first, and
-can often spare partly filled combs to be placed in the top stories
-of less populous colonies, thus encouraging the latter to begin work
-in the upper stories. It is safe to say that in general more than
-twice the yield of honey can be obtained from colonies supplied during
-the whole honey flow, with all the completed combs they are able to
-utilize, than can be expected from colonies that have to build all of
-the combs for their surplus while storing. Completed combs not being
-available, comb foundation in full sheets should be employed. During
-the early part of the harvest this will be drawn out very quickly and
-aid greatly in securing the honey which otherwise might be lost for
-want of store combs as fast as might be needed. During a fair yield the
-foundation will pay for itself the first season in the extra amount
-of honey, and the combs, properly cared for, can be used year after
-year--indefinitely, in fact--for extracting. The best of them should be
-picked out constantly to replace less desirable ones that may be found
-in the brood apartment, or to give to new swarms destined to produce
-extracted honey. Some prefer for the surplus cases frames half the
-depth of ordinary brood frames, finding them easier to manipulate.
-
-Whenever the combs of a top story are nearly filled, and before they
-are completely sealed, it may be lifted up and another story, filled
-with empty combs, placed between it and the brood apartment, and this
-may be continued until the end of the honey flow, and all may be left
-on the hive during the warm weather. It would, of course, be easier
-to add the new stories successively at the top--that is, above the
-partially filled surplus stories--and this plan works well as long as
-the honey flow is abundant, but when put on just as the yield slackens,
-even if but little, or when the weather is cool, the bees may refuse to
-begin work in the new super unless it is placed between the partially
-filled ones and the brood apartment. Leaving the filled top stories
-on the hives for some time permits the more complete evaporation of
-the moisture contained in the newly gathered honey, and by marking
-the stories the honey from a certain source, when the yield has been
-sufficient to get the combs filled and sealed, can be extracted by
-itself. If the supply of combs is insufficient to hold the whole
-amount gathered, it must then be extracted as fast as sealed, lest the
-bees, lacking ready cells in which to deposit their surplus as fast
-as gathered, hang idly about, or if space for new combs exists, only
-slowly provide these, losing meanwhile much of the harvest. When sealed
-the honey will generally be found fairly ripened, though it may improve
-by being stored in open buckets or cans in a dry, warm room.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 55.--Uncapping and extracting honey. (Original.)]
-
-The process of extracting is extremely simple, and a little practice
-will enable an observing person to do it well (fig. 55). As indicated
-above, some judgment is required in the selection of combs, regard
-being had to the future condition of the colony. The filled comb-, as
-fast as removed, are placed in a light case the size of a hive, or a
-tin can made specially for the purpose, covered closely to prevent the
-access of robbers, and taken to the extracting room, which should be
-bee-proof. It is not always necessary to use such care in excluding all
-bees, but the novice should practice it until he learns to distinguish
-by the actions of the bees when such precautions may be dispensed
-with. Whenever possible the stories containing surplus honey should
-be lifted up and honey boards containing bee escapes slipped between
-them and the brood apartment early in the morning of the day before
-the extracting is to be done, in case the bees are still gathering,
-otherwise the night before will do. The combs will then be free from
-bees, or nearly so, when the operator wishes to remove them, and will
-contain no honey gathered within twenty-four hours, the last day's
-gathering having also been ripened considerably during the night
-preceding the insertion of the escapes. When the queen has not been
-restricted in her laying to the lower story by means of excluders,
-this plan of freeing the combs of bees will fail in case the escapes
-are placed on lower stories above which the brood and the queen may
-be. The only way then will be to remove the combs one by one, after
-smoking the bees to quiet them, and shake or brush off the latter into
-the top story. Italians can not be shaken off unless their bodies are
-pretty well filled with honey, but they may be safely brushed off after
-smoking. For this a single large feather from the left wing of a turkey
-is best. Other races can be shaken off after smoking. Eastern bees
-should never be brushed from the combs when extracting, nor at any time
-unless they are gorged with honey. They can all be shaken off easily,
-and will need less smoke than the European races.
-
-When much extracting is to be done, top stories of hives or light
-cases with cloth covers, weighted with a rod sewed into the loose
-edge, may be used to hold the full combs as fast as taken from the
-hives, and these, placed on a wheelbarrow, cart, or car, can be easily
-transported to the extracting room. The uncapping knife, kept in hot
-water when not in use, is passed rapidly under the capping of the
-sealed combs, the point of it being used to reach depressed surfaces.
-The loosened cappings drop into a sieve resting over a pan, or into
-the upper part of a can specially designed to receive cappings. The
-small amount of honey removed with the cappings drains through the
-strainer and is drawn off below. The uncapped combs are placed in
-the extractor at once. As the cells generally slant upward more or
-less, especially those built for store cells outside the brood nest,
-the throwing out of the honey is facilitated by placing each comb in
-such a manner as to bring the top bar at the right hand, the basket
-being revolved in the most natural way--that is, from right to left.
-A little practice will enable the operator to note the speed required
-in order to free the combs entirely from honey, which will depend, of
-course, upon the consistency of the honey and the length of time combs
-are revolved. While it is, in general, best to avoid extracting from
-combs containing brood, cases will arise where it is necessary. If the
-brood is sealed, there will, be less liability of injuring it than
-when open cells containing larvæ are placed in the extractor; but a
-moderate degree of speed continued somewhat longer will usually bring
-the honey out without disturbance to the immature bees. Three persons
-can work together very advantageously--one to remove the surplus cases
-or combs from the hives, free them of their bees, and bring them into
-the extracting room, where two assistants uncap and extract the honey.
-If the bees are not gathering honey and are therefore prone to rob,
-the person who removes the combs from the hives should be assisted by
-an active boy who can cover hives or cases quickly or lift the latter
-when necessary. The combs when emptied may be returned at once to the
-hives if the bees are still engaged in storing. The slight damage which
-they have sustained under the uncapping knife or in the extractor will
-soon be repaired; indeed, with a little experience the uncappers will
-be able to smooth and trim irregular combs in such a way as to render
-them straighter after they have been through the extractor. It is
-particularly desirable, in order to straighten the combs of transferred
-colonies and get them in good working trim, that they be run for
-extracted honey during the first year or two; moreover, a good yield of
-extracted honey is more likely to be obtained from recently transferred
-colonies than comb honey, especially if the manipulators are beginners
-in the work.
-
-When the extracting is done after the close of the gathering period,
-the greatest care should be taken not to start robbing. The surplus
-combs should be returned to the hives just before nightfall, and not
-even a taste of sweets of any kind should be left exposed. The object
-in returning the combs is to have them cleaned up, and also to have
-them under the protection of the bees until cool weather puts a stop
-to the destructive work of wax-moth larvæ. When sharp frosts occur,
-the surplus combs may be removed from the hives and placed in a dry,
-cold room. An open loft (if not infested with mice or if the combs are
-protected from the latter) is a good place, and it is much better to
-place the combs so they do not touch each other.
-
-
- COMB HONEY.
-
-The general directions given in the preceding chapter on spring
-manipulation to secure populous colonies apply as well to those
-designed for comb honey as to those which are to produce extracted
-honey. If any difference is to be observed it is even more important
-that the former be brought to the opening of the honey flow with the
-brood combs compactly filled with developing bees to the exclusion
-of honey, than that the latter should be so; and colonies not strong
-enough to enter sections readily, if at all, may still be utilized, and
-often do fairly well in the production of extracted honey.
-
-The old-fashioned surplus boxes holding 25 to 30 pounds are regarded
-quite as relics of the past by those who use frame hives and produce
-comb honey in fine marketable shape, and even if for home consumption
-the pound (fig. 50) and 12-pound sections are always preferred, since
-they are so cheap, permit the use of comb foundation, and are in neat
-shape and of convenient size for the table.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 56.--One-piece V-grooved section. (From Gleanings.)]
-
-Section holders (fig. 57) with sections folded and in place, each
-section supplied with thin foundation, preferably full sheets, but at
-least guides, should be in readiness before the opening of the harvest.
-Forty to fifty sections for each hive should be prepared. One-piece
-sections, if bought in the flat, should be placed in the cellar for two
-or three days before folding. If the section back of the V-joints is
-then moistened slightly they can be set up rapidly without breakage.
-Sections made of white poplar are by far the neatest looking and do
-not cost much if any more than basswood, so that bee keepers might
-show their disapproval of the wholesale destruction of our basswood or
-linden timber by resolutely refusing to buy sections made of that wood.
-The four-piece sections, if well made, are preferable to the one-piece.
-The latter do not keep their shape as firmly as the four-piece
-sections, which are made with lock joints at all the corners.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 57.--Super with sections and section holders in
-place: A, super; D, separator; E, sections; F, follower; G, wedge.
-(From Gleanings.)]
-
-The foundation for sections should be the quality known as "thin
-surplus" or, preferably, if full sheets be used, "extra-thin surplus."
-These grades are made of selected, light-colored wax, and 1 pound
-furnishes full sheets for 100 to 125 standard sections (4¼ by 4¼
-inches). The sheets should be cut no larger than 3¾ inches square.
-These will take up about three-sixteenths of an inch in fastening,
-which will leave nearly one-half inch space between the lower edge and
-the bottom piece of the section and allow the foundation to stretch
-while being drawn out. This is necessary, otherwise the partially
-completed comb will bulge as soon as it reaches the bottom of the
-section. In cutting foundation either for sections or frames one
-edge--the one to be attached--should be perfectly straight. To secure
-this not more than six to ten sheets (depending on their thickness)
-should be laid in one pile, and a sharp, thin-bladed knife, as well
-as a straight rule, used. Two or three piles may be laid side by
-side and with a rule long enough to reach across them all a dozen to
-thirty sheets can be cut at a time. Dipping the knife in warm water
-facilitates the work.
-
-The sheets are fastened in the section by the use of one of the
-machines mentioned on page 52. They secure the wax to the wood by
-pressure combined in some instances with heat. Fig. 40 shows one of
-these. The simplest form consists merely of a sliding lever hinged to
-a block. It is intended to be fastened by means of screws to a table
-or bench, and is then ready for use when the lever is moistened with
-honey, starch water, or soapsuds along the edge which is to touch the
-wax sheets. The foundation is laid flat on the top piece of the section
-in such a way that the straight edge passes the center line one-eighth
-of an inch, and the whole is then slipped under the lever. The latter
-is brought down with a sliding motion toward the operator and at the
-same time the foundation is bent up at right angles to the top piece.
-If the wax is slightly soft it will adhere firmly. A heated brick
-placed before the pile of starters will keep the edges soft enough if
-the work is done in a moderately warm room.
-
-Starters half to three-fourths inch in width are sometimes used at the
-bottoms of sections to secure firm attachment of combs there. Bees
-incline to gnaw these bottom starters away unless the top pieces of
-foundation reach within one-half inch of them. Top starters an inch or
-less in width may be used alone as comb guides when it is desirable to
-avoid great outlay for foundation.
-
-The use of strips of tin or wood as separators (fig. 57, D) between the
-sections insures straight combs with smooth surfaces, thus convenient
-to handle and ship.
-
-The sections furnished with starters or full sheets of foundation are
-slipped with separators into supers and piled away ready for use as
-soon as the harvest opens.
-
- PUTTING ON SECTIONS.
-
-It is better not to put surplus honey receptacles on the hive until the
-honey flow actually begins, as, of course, no work will be done in them
-until then. Moreover, all the heat is needed in the brood apartment
-during the early part of the season. The bees might also become
-discouraged by the large amount of empty space and might not begin work
-in it at all before swarming. The sections would also be soiled by the
-bees crawling over them and daubing them with propolis.
-
-The bee keeper who is familiar with the honey-producing flora of his
-locality will note the development of the flower buds of any plant
-from which he expects a crop and will be able to judge accurately by
-a glance at the colony when sections are needed. The beginner will do
-well to consult carefully the list of honey-producing plants given in
-the chapter on "Bee pasturage," and also endeavor by inquiry in his
-neighborhood to ascertain what other sources, if any, are within the
-reach of his bees. The usual time of blooming of all principal honey
-plants should be noted, and the management to secure populous colonies
-having been in accordance with the directions given in Chapter VII on
-"Spring manipulation," the opening of the first blossoms of any one of
-the important honey yielders should be the signal for placing supers
-with sections on all hives intended for comb honey production. Should
-these indications not be sufficient, there is still another which
-no one could mistake. It is to examine the tops of the brood combs
-from time to time and note when the store cells between the brood and
-the top bar are being made deeper by added wax. The fresh, whitened
-appearance which such combs present when viewed from above readily
-distinguishes them from the yellow or dark combs wholly built during
-previous seasons. The lower edges of partially completed combs will
-also show additions at the same time.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 58.--Dadant-Quinby form of Langstroth hive,
-elevated from bottom board and slid back for ventilation in summer.
-(Redrawn from Langstroth.)]
-
-It having been determined that the time to put on sections has arrived,
-the quilt used over the frames is removed and the super, with section
-holders, sections, and separators in place, is set over the frames. A
-clean enameled or carriage-cloth quilt should be laid over the tops
-of the sections, if these are open above, and this weighted down
-with a board which has been clamped to prevent warping. At this time
-the flight hole should be full width and the hive protected from the
-direct rays of the sun during the hotter portions of the day. With
-small, single-walled hives, such as hold eight combs or less, it may be
-necessary, if the hives are crowded with bees, to raise them slightly
-from the bottom board or slide them back, so as to give small openings
-at the rear. Mr. Simmins's plan of placing below the brood nest a hive
-chamber with starters only in the frames permits the bees to avoid
-clustering too compactly and yet to keep up their work inside during
-extremely hot weather. Ventilation and shading of hives assist greatly
-toward the prevention of swarming, and having bred the colony up until
-it is sufficiently strong to take advantage of the harvest, and having
-reached the opening of that harvest, it is desirable by all means to
-keep the forces together as long as the flow lasts. (Fig. 58.)
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 59.--Langstroth hive with combined surplus case and
-shipping crate. (Original.)]
-
-The supers should be removed as fast as fairly filled. The bees are
-slow in sealing over the outside sections; therefore it is better not
-to lose time waiting for these to be completely capped, but replace
-the whole with a new set. Some prefer to lift up the super when about
-three-fourths completed and place the empty one below--that is, between
-it and the brood chamber. The objection to this plan is that by the
-time the sections placed above have been fully completed they will have
-more or less propolis daubed on them and the combs will be considerably
-soiled by the bees running over them. A better plan to secure the
-completion of the outside sections is, after removing a number of
-supers, to select enough incomplete Sections to fill one super, Which
-is then placed on a strong colony for completion, or the partly filled
-sections may be used in the middle of new supers as bait sections to
-induce the bees to cluster and begin work in them at once.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 60.--Honey shipping-cases. (From Gleanings.)]
-
-Notwithstanding such precautions for the prevention of swarming
-as shading the hives, ventilation, having only young queens, and
-the removal of the outside combs, substituting for them frames of
-foundations or starters near the center of the brood nest, swarms
-will sometimes issue, especially from hives devoted to comb-honey
-production. The best plan in this case is to hive the swarm in a clean
-new hive whose frames have been filled with starters and place this on
-the stand of the parent colony, moving the latter to a new position
-or more feet away. The swarm in its new quarters will then be joined
-by the rest of the field workers from the parent hive, and the whole
-tone, reunited and having for some days no brood to care for, will
-constitute a strong colony for storing honey. The super of partly
-finished sections should be lifted, bees and all, from the parent hive
-and placed on the brood chamber of the new colony.
-
-The supers should be promptly removed at the close of the honey
-harvest, honey boards with bee escapes in them being used to free
-them from bees, as described under the head of "Extracting." If the
-gathering season for the year has also ended, an examination of
-the brood apartment should be made to determine whether feeding is
-necessary, either to prolong brood rearing or for winter stores.
-
-
- PRODUCTION OF WAX.
-
-The progressive apiarist of the present time does not look upon the
-production of wax in so great a proportion compared with his honey
-yield as did the old-time box-hive bee keeper. The latter obtained much
-of his honey for the market by crushing the combs and straining it out,
-leaving the crushed combs to be melted up for their wax. Before the
-use of supers late swarms and many colonies quite heavy in honey were
-smothered by the use of sulphur; the light ones because their honey
-supply would not bring them through the winter, and the very heavy
-ones because of the rich yield in honey. Frequent losses of bees in
-wintering and through queenlessness gave more combs for melting, as
-without frame hives; honey extractors, or comb-foundation machines, the
-vacated combs were not often utilized again. The wax from the pressed
-combs was all marketed, since there could be but little home use for it.
-
-The bee keeper of to-day, after having removed the honey from the
-combs by centrifugal force, returns them, but slightly injured, to be
-refilled by the bees, and at the end of the season these combs are
-stored away for use in successive years, or he secures the surplus,
-also apart from the brood, in neat sectional boxes, to be marketed as
-stored--that is, without cutting.
-
-The wax must therefore come from the cappings of combs where extracted
-honey is produced, from occasional broken comb, bits of drone comb
-that are cut out to be replaced by worker comb, from unfinished and
-travel-stained sections from which the honey has been extracted, or
-from old brood combs that need to be replaced. Since the price per
-pound of extracted honey is usually not less than one-third and that
-of comb honey one-half the price of wax, and it has already been
-indicated (p. 28) that some 12 to 15 pounds of honey may in general be
-safely reckoned as necessary to produce 1 pound of comb, it can readily
-be seen that it is much more profitable to turn the working force,
-in so far as possible, to the production of honey rather than wax,
-taking only as much wax as can be produced without lowering the yield
-of honey; and what wax is taken is practically turned into honey the
-following year, for it is made into comb foundation, which, judiciously
-used, increases in turn the season's yield of honey.
-
-Wax being so much more valuable than honey, it behooves the bee keeper
-to save even the smallest pieces of comb; but during warm weather they
-must not be left long or they will serve as breeding places for the
-wax moth, unless fumigated with burning sulphur or exposed to the fumes
-of bisulphide of carbon two or three times each month until no more
-eggs of the moth remain.
-
-The old way of rendering wax was to put the combs into a sack made of
-some open stuff', weight this down in a kettle of water, and boil for
-some time. The wax rose, and when cold was removed in a cake. This
-process, besides being dauby, often yielded inferior wax--burned,
-water-soaked, or filled with settlings.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 61.--The Boardman solar wax extractor. (From
-Gleanings.)]
-
-The most approved method of rendering wax is, for moderate-sized
-apiaries at least, by means of the solar wax extractor (fig. 61),
-already mentioned under the head of "Implements." Its management is
-very simple. The machine is placed in the sunniest spot in or near the
-apiary, and all of the wax cappings, after having been drained of honey
-or worked over by the bees, as well as bits of comb, are thrown into
-the receiver above the wire strainer, the glass is adjusted, and the
-whole is turned so that the direct rays of the sun enter. More bits
-of comb are added from time to time during the day. The melted wax
-trickles through the strainer and collects in a tin placed at the lower
-edge of the tank or melter. The cake is removed each morning, it having
-cooled and contracted during the night sufficiently to cause the mass
-to cleave readily from the vessel.
-
-The solar wax extractor can be used during four or five months of the
-year in the more northern States, and for a longer time in the South.
-To render wax at other times steam heat is best. When available a jet
-from a boiler may be connected with a barrel or vessel containing the
-combs and a large amount rendered in a short time. In smaller apiaries
-a steam extractor for use over a boiler on the stove may be employed
-(fig. 30). The manner of using these extractors is simple. The cappings
-and bits of comb to be rendered are placed in an inside basket made of
-perforated metal. Upon placing this over a water boiler, into which it
-tits closely, the steam rises through holes in the bottom of the upper
-can and readily penetrates the mass. The melted wax runs out through a
-spout at the lower edge of the upper can and is caught in a pan partly
-filled with warm water. As fast as the mass in the perforated can
-settles away more bits of comb are added. The dark residue remaining
-is composed of cocoons, pollen, and accidental impurities. These
-may, however, contain considerable wax which they have absorbed as it
-melted. This waste may be avoided in a great measure if the combs are
-broken up and soaked in rain water for twenty-four hours before melting.
-
-Cakes of wax, if designed for the comb-foundation manufacturer, will
-be acceptable just as they come from the wax extractor, but if for the
-general market they should all be remelted in order to purify them.
-This must be done with care or the wax will be seriously injured.
-Iron vessels will discolor it, and as well or spring water frequently
-contains iron, the use of rain water, whenever it is to come in contact
-with the melted wax, will be found more desirable. It is best to
-melt the wax slowly, for if heated too rapidly the particles become
-disaggregated and take up a certain quantity of water, the mass loses
-its luster, and becomes pale and granular. In this condition its market
-value is low. Remelting slowly, especially in a solar wax extractor,
-will restore it.
-
-These difficulties in purifying wax may be avoided if it is melted in
-a tin or copper vessel and in a water bath, that is, the melter is to
-stand within a larger vessel containing sufficient water to surround
-the former. As much wax as possible should be melted at one time, and
-when convenient the inner can is left standing in the water, so that
-the wax remains liquid some time, permitting the impurities to settle.
-These may be shaved from the bottom of the cake and remelted if they
-contain much wax.
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER IX.
-
- =REARING AND INTRODUCING QUEENS.=
-
-
-So much of the bee keeper's success depends upon the strength of
-his colonies, and this in turn upon the character of the queens
-heading these colonies, that he needs to be well informed as to what
-constitutes a really good queen and how to produce such, and, having
-this knowledge, it will be profitable to be constantly on the alert to
-see that all colonies are supplied with the best queens procurable.
-With a queen from a poor strain of bees, or an unprolific one from a
-good strain, a colony, even in a season of abundant honey secretion,
-will give little or no return, while the seasons are not frequent
-during which one given a fair start and having a large, prolific queen
-of an active honey-producing strain can not collect a fair surplus
-beyond its own needs. Admitting this, it will be plain to all that
-queen bees differ proportionately in value as much as horses or cattle,
-and the keeper of bees who does not know how to select and produce the
-best can not be called a bee-master.
-
-When bees swarm they generally leave a number of sealed queen cells
-in the parent colony. With blacks and Italians there are usually 6 to
-10; rarely more than a dozen. Carniolans generally construct about
-two dozen, but under favorable conditions can be induced to build 75
-to 100 good cells at a time. Fig. 62 represents a comb from a hive of
-Carniolans which had built at one time 70 queen cells. Cyprians usually
-make 30 or 40 queen cells, but may greatly exceed this number under the
-best conditions, while Syrians nearly always exceed it, sometimes even
-building as many as 200; and the writer has seen 350 cells constructed
-at one time by a single colony of bees in Tunis. It might be thought
-that where so many were constructed only a small proportion of them
-would produce good queens. Such is not the case, however; for in
-general a much larger proportion of the cells formed by these eastern
-races produce well developed queens. But in all hives some queen cells
-are undersized. This may be because they are located near the bottom
-or sides, where space for full development is lacking, but in many
-instances it arises from the fact that they are formed last, and larvæ
-that are really too old to make full sized, perfect queens have to
-be used. These smaller cells are usually smooth on the outside and
-show thin walls. In selecting cells only the large, slightly tapering
-ones, an inch or more in length and straight, should be saved. Yet
-good queens may frequently be obtained from crooked cells, in case the
-latter are large and extend well into the midrib of the comb.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 62.--Comb showing worker brood and queen cells.
-(Original--from photograph.)]
-
-When a laying queen is removed from a colony during the working season,
-eggs and larvæ of all ages are left behind. As indicated in Chapter
-II, any egg which has been fertilized may be made to develop into a
-queen. So also larva? from such eggs may, up to the third day, be
-taken to rear from without danger of producing inferior queens. Cells
-in which to produce queens will be started over some of these larvæ
-on the edges of the combs, or, by tearing down partitions and thus
-enlarging the lower portion of the cell, a beginning is obtained for
-a queen cell. Fig. 63 shows such queen cells constructed over eggs
-or larvæ originally designed to produce workers. They are known as
-emergency cells. The young larva is at once liberally supplied with
-a secretion, which is probably a production of the glands of the
-head, and which analyses have shown to be rich in nitrogen and fatty
-elements, being similar to that given at first to the worker larva.
-This is continued throughout the whole feeding period, while, as Dr.
-Von Planta has shown, in the case of the workers and drones, after the
-third day the proportion of the constituents of the larval food is so
-changed that they receive much less albumen and fat and more sugar.
-It is chiefly the influence of this food which causes the larva that
-would have developed as a worker to become a queen. The latter has
-somewhat changed instincts,, and its reproductive system is developed,
-instead of abortive as in the case of the worker. The size of the cell,
-and, to a less extent perhaps, its position, no doubt influence this
-development, but the food seems to be the main factor, for small cells
-built horizontally, if their larvæ are supplied with the food designed
-for royal larvæ, will be found to contain queens, and frequently these
-queens, even though small, are quite prolific, and show in all respects
-the instincts of a queen.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 63.--Queen cells and worker brood in various
-stages. (Original.)]
-
-It is believed by most queen raisers that in order to secure the best
-development of the young queens a colony should be allowed to build but
-a few cells at a time. That their belief is not well founded is shown
-by the facts just cited concerning the large numbers of well-developed
-queen cells which produce also perfect and prolific queens. It lies
-within the skill of the bee-master to establish conditions favoring
-the production of food for the queen larvæ--the so called "royal
-jelly"--and this having been brought about, there need be no hesitancy
-in permitting the construction of hundreds of queen cells in one colony
-if such numbers are needed.
-
-It was formerly the plan, after removing the queen from a colony
-in order to secure queen cells, to trim the lower edges of the
-combs containing eggs or very young larvæ, or to cut out strips of
-comb about an inch wide just below worker cells containing eggs or
-just-hatched larvæ. This practice gave the bees space in which to
-build perfect full-sized cells, but it had certain disadvantages. Good
-worker combs were mutilated, often quite ruined, in order to secure
-the construction of the cells and also in cutting out the latter.
-Cells so formed are often in groups so close together that they can
-not be separated without injury to numbers of them, necessitating, if
-desirable to save all, a close watch, or at least frequent examination,
-for hours or even days, since all the queens are not likely to emerge
-at the same time.
-
-To remedy this Mr. O. H. Townsend, of Michigan, devised a plan which
-is described in Gleanings in Bee Culture for July, 1880 (Vol. VIII, p.
-322). It consists in cutting combs whose cells contain eggs or freshly
-hatched larvæ into narrow strips and pinning or sticking these on
-the sides of brood combs in such a manner that the cells containing
-the eggs or larvæ from which queens are desired shall open downward.
-Mr. Townsend removed the larvæ from some of the cells, believing
-that he secured better developed queens by limiting the number, and
-also because he could then cut them out more easily for insertion in
-separate hives. In the succeeding number of Gleanings (August, 1880),
-Mr. J. M. Brooks, of Indiana, illustrated a plan for securing even
-greater regularity. This consists in shaving off the cells on one side
-down nearly to the midrib of each strip of worker comb containing the
-eggs or larvæ selected to rear queens from, and then sticking these
-strips on the undersides of horizontal bars nailed in ordinary comb
-frames. Mr. Henry Alley, in his work on queen rearing, published in
-1883, recommends sticking the prepared strips, shallow cells downward,
-on the lower edges of combs which have been trimmed so as to round
-downward. This leaves plenty of space for the full development of queen
-cells, the eggs or larvæ in alternate cells having been removed as in
-the plans previously mentioned. All conditions being favorable, many
-cells conveniently located are thus secured, and if the exact age of
-the eggs or just-hatched larvæ has been noted the time the young queens
-will emerge may be known beforehand, so that preparation can be made
-for them. Nuclei--small clusters of bees containing a quart to two
-quarts--are to be placed in separate hives and given combs, emerging
-brood, and a supply of food, and to each of these a mature cell is to
-be given. The nuclei thus prepared may be confined to their hives with
-wire cloth and placed in a cellar for two or three days, and when set
-out, just at dusk (p. 117), the bees will adhere to their new location.
-Full colonies, whose queens it is desired to replace, may also be made
-queenless about two or three days beforehand, and when mature the cells
-inserted one each in these. In cutting out the cell a small piece of
-comb, triangular shaped, 1½ to 2 inches long and about 1½ inches broad
-at the top, is to be left attached to it whenever practicable, since
-it will then be easy to insert it in one of the combs of the queenless
-colony or nucleus, by cutting out a corresponding triangular piece.
-Fig. 54 shows a queen cell inserted in a brood comb. It is safest not
-to cut the cells out until they are within twenty-four to forty-eight
-hours of their full maturity. In case a nucleus or colony has not been
-queenless long enough to make it ready to accept a queen cell, the
-latter may be placed in a cell protector made of wire cloth or of a
-spiral coil of wire and then inserted between the central combs of the
-hive. The lower end only of the protector is open, so that the upper
-portion of the cell--the part easily bitten open by the workers--is
-wholly covered.
-
-Queen nurseries on the general plan devised many years ago by Dr.
-Jewell Davis, of Illinois, are used to hold surplus maturing cells and
-the young queens, after emerging, for which colonies or nuclei are not
-ready at once. These nurseries consist of compartments about 1½ inches
-square, made of wood and wire cloth, and so arranged that they may be
-suspended in the center of a colony of bees, a frame being filled with
-them for this purpose. Each compartment contains a bit of soft candy to
-sustain the life of the queen in case the bees fail to feed her. Spiral
-coils of wire somewhat longer than those used as queen-cell protectors
-have been arranged with a metal cup for food, so that, in principle,
-they are the same as the compartments of the Davis queen nurseries and
-are used for the same purpose.
-
-The young queens will usually mate when from five to seven days old,
-flying from the hive for this purpose. If any undesirable drones are
-in the apiary they may be restrained from flying by means of excluder
-zinc over the hive entrances, permitting only workers to pass in and
-out. In a day or two after mating the queen generally commences to
-deposit eggs, and is then ready for use in the apiary or to be sent
-away as an "untested queen." To enable her to rank as a "tested queen"
-it will be necessary to keep her three weeks or a little longer in
-order to see her worker progeny and ascertain by their markings that
-the queen has mated with a drone of her own race. As both tested and
-untested queens are usually raised from the same mothers--the best in
-the given apiary--either may be obtained for honey production; but for
-use as breeders only tested queens which have been approved in every
-way should be purchased, unless, indeed, the purchaser prefers to buy
-several untested queens, which can usually be obtained for the price
-of one approved and selected breeder, and do his own testing, trusting
-that among them one or more may prove valuable as a breeding queen.
-"Warranted queens" are untested queens sent out with a guaranty that
-they have mated purely. If few or no drones of another race are in the
-vicinity of a breeder, he is tolerably safe in doing this. The proper
-plan is for the breeder to keep a record of the brood of all such
-queens and replace such as show that they have mismated.
-
-Exact records of the ages of all queens should be kept, and notes on
-the qualities of their progeny are desirable, while in some instances
-particulars as to pedigrees are valuable.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 64.--The Benton cage for transporting a queen and
-attendants by mail. (Original.)]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 65.--Caging a queen for mailing. (Original--from
-photograph.)]
-
-
- MAILING QUEENS.
-
-Queens are now transported nearly always by mail, and sent to all parts
-of the United States, and even to distant foreign countries, the cage
-used almost exclusively being the one shown in fig. 64 or some slightly
-modified form of the same. No attempt was ever made to patent this
-cage, and as the construction is obvious from the figure given here,
-anyone who desires can make and use it. The food usually employed in
-these cages by queen breeders is a soft candy recommended many years
-ago as bee food by the Rev. Mr. Scholz, of Germany. The Scholz candy
-is made by kneading fine sugar and honey together until a stiff dough
-has been formed. Some think it an improvement to heat the honey before
-adding the sugar. The Viallon shipping candy consists of four parts
-of brown sugar and twelve of white sugar, with two tablespoonfuls of
-honey and one of flour to each pound of the mixed sugars; these, with a
-little water added, form a batter, which is boiled until it commences
-to thicken, when it is poured into the food compartment of the mailing
-cage. Mr. I. R. Good recommended for use in queen cages a mixture
-of granulated sugar and extracted honey; hence this candy has since
-been known as the Good candy. The bees fed on it leave loose granules
-of sugar in the cage, and these becoming moist often daub the whole
-interior in such a way as to cause the death of queen and workers. It
-is therefore not adapted to long journeys.
-
-The food for the journey having been placed in the end opposite that
-containing the ventilating holes, a bit of comb foundation is pressed
-down over it to assist in retaining the moisture, the food compartment
-having also previously been coated with wax for the same purpose. The
-cover, with perhaps a bit of wire cloth between it and the bees to
-give greater security, together with the address and a 1-cent stamp,
-completes the arrangement for a queen and eight to twelve attendant
-workers to take a journey of 3,000 miles. A special postal regulation
-admits them to the mails at merchandise rates (I cent per ounce). For
-transportation to distant countries of the Pacific a larger cage and
-more care are necessary to success. A recent estimate by one of the
-apiarian journals places the number of queens sold and thus transported
-in the United States annually at 20,000.
-
-
- INTRODUCING QUEENS.
-
-Most of the mailing cages are arranged so that when received the
-removal of the wooden lid and also of a small cork at one end will
-permit the bees to eat their way out when assisted by those of the hive
-to which the queen is to be given. The cage is laid, with the wire
-cloth down, on the frames of a colony that has previously been made
-queenless. In twenty-four to forty-eight hours the queen will usually
-have been liberated, but it is safer not to disturb the combs for four
-or five days lest the bees, on the watch for intruders when their combs
-are exposed, regard the new queen as such, and, crowding about her in a
-dense ball, sting her instantly or smother her.
-
-Colonies having only young bees accept queens readily, so that when a
-swarm has issued and the parent stock has been removed to a new stand
-the time for queen introduction is propitious. During a great honey
-flow queens are accepted without much question, if any at all. They may
-at such times nearly always be safely run in just at dark by lifting
-one corner of the cover or quilt of a queenless hive and driving the
-bees back with smoke. The new queen, having been kept without food and
-away from all other bees for a half hour previously, is then slipped
-in and the hive left undisturbed for several days. This and similar
-methods of direct introduction without cages, having been developed and
-advocated by Mr. Samuel Simmins, of England, are known as the Simmins
-methods of direct introduction of queens.
-
-In the fall and at all times when honey is not coming in freely, caging
-the queen for a few hours or days is desirable. A cage which permits
-the queen to remain directly on the comb itself is infinitely superior
-to any other. Fig. 66 shows a pipe-cover cage as made by the author,
-the size of which may be greater if circumstances require--that is,
-when it seems advisable, with a queen of great value, to include under
-the cage a number of cells containing emerging brood. Ordinarily the
-size here shown will suffice. The queen is caged before a closed window
-on a comb of honey with five or six recently emerged bees taken from
-the hive to which she is to be introduced. The comb holding the caged
-queen is to be placed in the center of the queenless colony, where the
-bees will cluster on it, yet with the end of the cage pressed firmly
-against the adjoining comb, so that the cage will remain in place even
-though a heavy cluster should gather on it. On the following day, just
-before dark, the queen should be released, provided that upon opening
-the hive the workers are not packed densely about the cage trying to
-sting her through it. In the latter case she should be left twenty-four
-or even forty-eight hours longer, and in the autumn it is generally
-advisable to keep her caged several days or even a whole week. If left
-longer than one day all queen cells should be hunted out and destroyed
-a few hours before releasing the queen. Feeding while the queen is
-caged is a good plan if gathering is not going on briskly. Upon freeing
-the queen, diluted honey drizzled down between the combs will serve to
-put the bees in a good humor for the reception of the new mother bee.
-The entrance of the hive should be contracted for a short time so that
-but a few bees can pass in or out at a time.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 66.--Benton queen-introducing cage. (Original.)]
-
-The conditions necessary to success in introducing queens are complied
-with by the above plan, namely: The bees are queenless long enough
-to have become fully aware of the fact, yet usually not long enough
-to have started queen cells; the strange queen is caged a sufficient
-length of time to acquire the peculiar odor of the hive to which she
-is to be given; the bees are all at home when the queen is released,
-and thus all become thoroughly gorged with food and are well disposed
-toward the new queen. No robber-bees come about, and by morning all is
-in order.
-
-As queens mate only once (p. 19), and workers and drones live but a few
-weeks or at most a few months (p. 20), if an Italian, a Carniolan, or
-other choice queen mated to a drone of her own race, be introduced to a
-given colony the bees of this colony will soon be replaced by others of
-the same race as the queen introduced. All of the colonies of an apiary
-may thus be changed; or, from a single breeding queen the apiary may be
-supplied with young queens pure in blood, and, since these (even though
-mated to drones of another race) will produce drones of their own blood
-the apiary will soon be stocked with males of the desired race.
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER X.
-
- =INCREASE OF COLONIES.=
-
-
- NATURAL SWARMING.
-
-An abundant secretion of honey and general prosperity of the
-colony--with combs crowded with bees and brood--are the immediate
-conditions which incite a colony of bees to swarm. If a colony in
-prosperous condition be found when the gathering season has fairly
-opened, with eggs or larvæ in partly finished queen cells, a swarm
-may be expected in a few days should the weather continue favorable.
-The first one from a given hive usually issues within twenty-four to
-forty-eight hours after the sealing of the first queen cell. In the
-case of strong colonies this may occur in favored situations in the
-North early in May, in the Middle States in April, and in the extreme
-South in March. But most of the swarms will come, in each section, a
-month later. When the flow of honey is prolonged the period during
-which swarms may issue is also extended, and in case a second flow
-occurs in midsummer, after an interruption, a second swarming period
-may occur.
-
-The outward indications immediately preceding swarming are a partial
-cessation of field work on the part of colonies that have been
-industriously gathering and the clustering or loitering of the workers
-about the entrances at times when they have usually been engaged in
-collecting and when other colonies no more populous are at work.
-Apparently many are awaiting the signal to migrate, while some seem
-not to have caught the spirit, but continue their field work. Suddenly
-great excitement seizes the workers that happen to be in the hive at
-the time. They rush forth pellmell, accompanied by the old queen, and
-after circling about for some minutes cluster on some neighboring tree
-or shrub.
-
-It very rarely happens that a swarm fails to cluster before leaving,
-but it may do so if it has swarmed before and returned to the hive
-because the queen failed to accompany it. Spraying water on the leaders
-or advance portion of the swarm from a force pump, firing a gun among
-them, or throwing the reflection from a mirror on them will disconcert
-the absconding swarm and nearly always cause the bees to settle, but
-the remedy must be at hand and applied instantly.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 67.--Hiving a swarm. (Original--from photograph.)]
-
-When a swarm has fairly settled it is best to hive it as soon as
-possible, lest others coming out may join it, occasioning a loss of
-queens, and sometimes of bees, or much trouble in separating them.
-The operation of hiving may appear very formidable to the novice and
-attended with great risks, but a little experience will dispel such
-apprehensions. The bees before swarming usually fill their sacs with
-honey and are quite peaceable, so that by the use of a little smoke
-in hiving there is seldom any difficulty. But to be doubly sure the
-novice should sprinkle sweetened water over the cluster, and at the
-same time wear a veil to protect his face. Of course, the hive has
-been ready for some time and has been standing in the shade so it will
-not be heated. If the cluster should be on a small limb which can be
-readily cut off, it can be laid down in front of the new hive, which
-should have a full-width entrance or be raised up in front. The bees
-will go trooping in, but if not fast enough gentle urging of the rear
-guard with a feather will hasten matters. If the bees have clustered
-on a branch which it is desirable to preserve, yet where the hive can
-conveniently be placed directly under the cluster and close to it, the
-swarm may be shaken into the hive at once (fig. 67); or the hive may
-be located on the stand it is to occupy and the bees shaken into a
-large basket or into a regular swarm catcher and poured in front of the
-hive. If the cluster is on the body of the tree it will be necessary
-to place the hive near and smoke or brush the bees into it. They will
-go up more readily than down, and may often be dipped with a small tin
-dipper or a wooden spoon and poured in front of the hive. Whatever plan
-be pursued, expedition is advisable, and it is best before leaving
-them to see that nearly all of the bees are inside of the hive: at
-least no clusters, however small, should be left on the tree, as the
-queen might be among those left behind, in which case the swarm would
-desert the new hive and return to the tree or go wherever the queen had
-settled, or, failing to find her, would return to the hive whence they
-had issued, unless meanwhile some other swarm should issue, which they
-would be likely to join. A few bees flying about or crawling excitedly
-over the spot from which the main part of the swarm has been removed
-need not be heeded. They will find their way back to the stand from
-which they came. As soon as the swarm is fairly within the new hive the
-latter should be carried to its permanent stand, and well shaded and
-ventilated. It is better policy, however, to place the hive containing
-the first swarm on the stand of the parent colony at once, removing the
-latter to a new location. The new swarm, having the old queen, with
-nearly all of the flight bees, will be in prime condition for storing
-honey, so that supers may be placed on it as soon as it has made a fair
-start in its new home--that is, on the second or third day after the
-swarm was hived. If there are uncompleted supers on the parent colony
-which has been removed, they should be lifted over to the new hive on
-the second or third day, as the parent colony, having parted with so
-many of its workers, will not be able to store at once. But the new
-swarm, placed in a clean hive with starters only, will be in shape to
-store in sections at once and produce the whitest combs and honey which
-the source of the yield will permit.
-
- CLIPPING QUEENS.
-
-To prevent swarms from absconding and to facilitate the work of hiving
-them, as well as to keep track more easily of the ages of queens, many
-persons prefer to clip the wings of their queens as soon as mated. The
-first season one of the large or primary wings is clipped half away;
-at the opening of the second season the Other large wing, and the
-third season an additional clip is taken from one of the large wings,
-and with it a portion of one of the secondary or smaller wings. With
-finely pointed scissors this operation can be performed while the queen
-is loose on the combs, but there is much danger of clipping one or more
-of her legs also. If she be caught by her wings with the thumb and
-first finger of the right hand, and then grasped by the thorax with
-the thumb and first two fingers of the left hand, her wings can easily
-be reached with the scissors. It will not do to grasp the queen by the
-abdomen? and of course there should be but little pressure exerted on
-the thorax. There are some objections against clipping. The queens,
-being unable to fly, are liable to get lost in the grass or stray into
-the wrong hives when they swarm during the absence of the attendant.
-They certainly look unsightly when thus maimed, and occasionally the
-bees are more disposed to replace such queens than unmutilated ones. It
-is of course preferable to lose one of these occasionally rather than
-the whole swarm. When the queen is clipped the operation of hiving is
-very easy if the bee keeper is on hand to catch the queen as she falls
-from the entrance to the ground. When the swarm is fairly out and while
-the bees are still circling in the air an empty hive should be set in
-place of the one from which the swarm has issued. The bees, missing
-their queen, will soon begin to return to their old location and will
-shortly crowd the entrance of the new hive. When about one-fourth have
-entered the queen may be allowed to run in, and the treatment will then
-not be different from that given any newly hived swarm.
-
- AUTOMATIC HIVERS.
-
-Thus far the automatic hivers have been only partially successful, so
-that the experimental stage has not yet been passed; but the practical
-perfection of such a device is looked forward to with considerable
-confidence.
-
- PREVENTION OF AFTER-SWARMING.
-
-The parent colony, removed from its old hive as soon as the first
-swarm issues, will rarely cast a second swarm, especially if a young
-queen is at hand to be introduced within a day or two. The surplus
-queen cells are likely to be destroyed by this young queen, with the
-assistance of the workers. A laying queen will be readily accepted
-by a colony which by swarming and removal has lost its old bees,
-and ten to fifteen days will be gained in the production of brood.
-Unless increase is especially desired it is best to limit it in this
-way to first swarms. If still less increase is wanted, methods which
-will be referred to later may be followed to prevent swarming as far
-as possible, and such chance swarms as do issue may be returned to
-the parent hive. If the queens are two or more years old, they may
-in most instances be profitably destroyed at this time and young
-ones introduced from nuclei; but whether introducing young queens or
-returning the swarm with its old queen, great care must be taken to
-destroy every queen cell, otherwise the introduced queen may be killed
-or the swarm may again issue. If, however, no young queen is at hand
-and it is desirable to replace the old queen, all cells but one may be
-destroyed, but this must on no account be jarred or dented. The danger
-of overlooking a cell where the hive is crowded with bees makes this
-method somewhat uncertain: moreover, when the bees have once got the
-"swarming fever" they may swarm again without preparation in the way of
-queen cells. It is also very troublesome to remove supers to get at the
-brood combs. These difficulties will induce many who may wish to limit
-the number of their colonies to prefer hiving the swarms on starters
-of foundation on the old stands and giving them the supers, while the
-parent colonies are placed near them with entrances turned away for
-a few days. The flight bees return, of course, to the old stand. The
-parent colony should be turned a little each day so as to bring it
-in five or six days side by side with the hive containing the swarm,
-which is on the old stand, and make its front face in the same way. By
-lifting it a day or so later, while the young bees are flying, over to
-the opposite side of the old stand and turning its entrance away from
-that of the hive on this stand, the bees that are flying, as well as
-those that have marked their last location, will join the swarm: and if
-the same operation be repeated at the end of another week most of the
-remaining bees will find their way within a day or two into the hive on
-the old stand. About this time--that is, some fifteen or sixteen days
-after the issuance of the first swarm--the young queen will commence
-laying and may be put in place of the old one which issued with the
-swarm. If honey is still coming in, the young queen, with accompanying
-bees, may usually be safely introduced at this time by shaking them in
-front of the hive from which the queen has been removed, both lots of
-bees having been smoked beforehand so as to get them to fill themselves
-with honey: or the two combs between which the queen is found may be
-lifted, with adhering bees, and placed in the center of the colony to
-which the queen is to be given. Before doing this it is best to smoke
-the latter pretty thoroughly, and if two of the brood combs from this
-hive have been removed a few hours before and placed, after their
-bees have been shaken off, in the colony to be united, and all other
-combs taken away from the latter, the bees, with their queen, will
-be clustered on these brood combs, and they may be lifted up without
-disturbance and placed in the middle of the other hive, whose supers
-and cover are to be put in place at once and the bees left to quiet
-down and resume storing. Under these circumstances the loss of a queen
-will be very rare: nevertheless, in the case of an exceptionally
-valuable one, cages and other methods are advisable. (See Chapter IX.)
-
-
- ARTIFICIAL INCREASE.
-
-The time lost in watching for swarms and hiving them, the occasional
-losses of swarms, and the vexations attendant upon their issuance, such
-as their clustering in tall trees, uniting and killing queens, and the
-delay in their swarming when the time has come for it, have led bee
-keepers to devise methods which would save their time and avoid as far
-as possible the uncertainties connected with this feature of their
-work. Where increase is desired the question is one of considerable
-importance. In the more northern States, where the main honey yield
-comes on suddenly and is abundant for a short period only, and swarming
-is confined mainly to a period of four to six weeks, or even to three
-weeks if the colonies are of pretty uniform strength, this question
-has less weight; but farther south, where the yield is more prolonged
-and the period during which swarms are liable to issue is sometimes
-extended over three or four months, it is of considerable moment, and
-the bee master who intends to multiply the number of his colonies will
-do well to follow some good system of control.
-
- DIVIDING.
-
-The simplest method of artificial increase is to lift from the populous
-colony a portion of the combs, with adhering bees, and place them in
-another hive near the parent colony, taking care that the part without
-any queen should have a majority of the bees and should be on the old
-stand. If a mature queen cell is at hand to give to this part a day or
-two after the division, the new colony will soon have a laying queen,
-should all go well. But this last point will need looking after ten
-days or so later. Should a laying queen be at hand to supply to the
-queenless portion of the divided colony, the queen found in the hive at
-the time of the division had better be left in that part of the colony
-which remains on the original stand, since the old bees will of course
-return to that spot and will not as readily receive a strange queen
-as will the removed portion of the colony which has parted with its
-flight bees. By introducing a laying queen when the division is made
-the deposition of eggs will be begun a week earlier than if a cell only
-should be given. At this season of the year this will make a difference
-of a good many thousands of workers, and will also prevent the bees
-from clogging the brood combs with honey, as they would if left without
-a laying queen for a week or more. The supers are to be placed on this
-part on the old stand, which, having most of the flight bees, will be
-far better able to store surplus than the other portion. The plan of
-making the division nearly equal is quite objectionable in case it is
-followed closely by the main honey flow of the season, for it places
-neither colony in the best condition for immediate storing. But if only
-a moderate yet continuous honey flow, followed by a larger yield, is to
-be anticipated, both parts will have time to become populous, and the
-equal division, if done in time--that is, before the "swarming fever"
-has taken hold of the colony--will be likely to prevent swarming.
-
- DRIVING OR BRUSHING.
-
-In case, however, some immediate work is expected of either part of
-the divided colony, it is preferable to make the division in such a
-way as to secure about all of the flight bees as well as most of the
-young bees, which will soon become flight bees, in the hive on the old
-stand. This may be done by shaking or brushing nearly all of the bees
-from the combs of the hive to be divided, or, if the latter is a box
-hive, the swarm may be driven into an empty box, as described under
-"Transferring," in Chapter VII, and then hived as an ordinary swarm,
-the parent colony receiving also the same treatment as described under
-"Natural swarming."
-
- THE NUCLEUS SYSTEM.
-
-Perhaps the safest plan, considering that the yield, even when one is
-acquainted with the flora, can not be foretold, is to follow the plan
-of making nuclei, and, as soon as these have laying queens, building
-them up gradually to full colonies by adding frames of brood, frames
-filled with worker comb, or with comb foundation, or merely starters,
-as may seem best. This system, besides being safe, has certain other
-advantages. It leaves the parent hives strong for the working season,
-yet tends to discourage swarming, because whenever colonies become
-overcrowded, and before they have contracted the swarming fever, one or
-more brood combs are removed and the colony is thus induced to continue
-work in the brood chamber to fill the empty space, while, of course,
-they are kept supplied with plenty of storage room above for surplus
-honey. Furthermore, it is easy to exchange the young queen of the
-nucleus, as soon as she commences laying, with the queen of the full
-colony. If the nucleus has been started early, the full colony will
-thus secure a queen of the current season's raising sufficiently early
-to reduce greatly the probability of its wanting to swarm that year,
-even though permitted to get very strong, as it is almost certain to do
-under such circumstances. These nuclei build straight combs and may be
-relied on to build, even without foundation, worker comb only.
-
-On the whole, a rational method of artificial increase is preferable to
-natural swarming; but experience and judgment in carrying it out are
-required to make it advantageous. It should be cautiously undertaken by
-the beginner, and the main reliance placed upon natural swarming until
-the bee keeper is familiar with the bees' way.
-
-
- PREVENTION OF SWARMING.
-
-The most commonly practiced and easily applied preventive measure is
-that of giving abundant room for storage of honey. This to be effective
-should be given early in the season, before the bees get fairly into
-the swarming notion, and the honey should be removed frequently,
-unless additional empty combs can be given in the case of colonies
-managed for extracted honey, while those storing in sections should be
-given additional supers before those already on are completed. With
-colonies run for comb honey it is not so easy to keep down swarming as
-in those run for extracted honey and kept supplied with empty comb.
-Free ventilation and shading of the hives as soon as warm days come
-will also tend toward prevention. Opening the hives once or twice
-weekly and destroying all queen cells that have been commenced will
-check swarming for a time in many instances, and is a plan which
-seems very thorough and the most plausible of any to beginners. But
-sometimes swarms issue without waiting to form cells; it is also very
-difficult to find all cells without shaking the bees from each comb in
-succession, an operation which, besides consuming much time, is very
-laborious when supers have to be removed, and greatly disturbs the
-labors of the bees. If but one cell is overlooked the colony will still
-swarm. The plan therefore leaves at best much to be desired, and is in
-general not worth the effort it costs and can not be depended on.
-
- DEQUEENING.
-
-The removal of a queen at the opening of the swarming season
-interferes, of course, with the plans of the bees, and they will then
-delay swarming until they get a young queen. Then if the bee keeper
-destroys all queen cells before the tenth day, swarming will again be
-checked. But to prevent swarming by keeping colonies queenless longer
-than a few days at most is to attain a certain desired result at a
-disproportionate cost, for the bees will not store diligently when
-first made queenless, and the whole yield of honey, especially if the
-flow is extended over some time or other yields come later in the
-season, is likely, or even nearly sure, to be less from such colonies,
-while the interruption to brood rearing may decimate the colony and
-prove very disastrous to it. The plan is therefore not to be commended.
-
- REQUEENING.
-
-Quite the opposite of this, and more efficacious in the prevention
-of swarming, is the practice of replacing the old queen early in
-the season with a young one of the same season's raising, produced,
-perhaps, in the South before it is possible to rear queens in the
-North. Such queens are not likely to swarm during the first season,
-and as they are vigorous layers the hive will be well populated at
-all times and thus ready for any harvest. This is important inasmuch
-as a flow of honey may come unexpectedly from some plant ordinarily
-not counted upon, and also since the conditions essential to the
-development of the various honey-yielding plants differ greatly, their
-time and succession of honey yield will also differ with the season,
-the same as the quantity may vary. Young queens are also safest to
-head the colonies for the winter. The plan is conducive to the highest
-prosperity of the colonies and is consistent with the securing of the
-largest average yield of honey, since besides giving them vigorous
-layers it generally keeps the population together in powerful colonies.
-It is therefore to be commended on all accounts as being in line with
-the most progressive management, without at the same time interfering
-with the application of other preventive measures.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 68.--The Simmins non-swarming system--single-story
-hive with supers: _bc_, brood chamber; _sc_, super; _st_, starters of
-foundation; _c_, entrance. (Redrawn from A Modern Bee-Farm.)]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 69.--The Simmins non-swarming system--double-story
-hive with supers; _bc_, brood chamber; _sc_, supers; _st_, chamber with
-starters; _e_, entrance. (Redrawn from A Modern Bee Farm.)]
-
- SPACE NEAR ENTRANCES.
-
-Arranging frames with starters or combs merely begun between the
-brood nest and the flight hole of the hive while the bees are given
-storing space above or back of the brood-nest (figs. 68 and 69) La
-a plan strongly recommended by Mr. Samuel Simmins, of England, and
-which has come to be known as "the Simmins non-swarming method," some
-features of it and the combination into a well defined method having
-been original with him. It is an excellent preventive measure, though
-not invariably successful even when the distinctive features brought
-forward prominently by Mr. Simmins--empty space between the brood
-combs and entrance, together with the employment of drawn combs in the
-supers--are supplemented by other measures already mentioned; but when,
-in addition to the space between the brood and the flight hole, the
-precaution be taken to get supers on in time, to ventilate the hive
-well, and to keep queens not over two years old, swarming will be very
-limited. If to these precautions be added that of substituting for the
-old queens young ones of the current season's raising, before swarming
-has begun, practical immunity from swarming is generally insured.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 70.--Beehives with Langdon non-swarmer attached:
-_A, B_, hives; _S, S′_, supers; _D_, non-swarming device; _e, e′_,
-entrances corresponding to hive entrances; _sl_, slide for closing
-entrance; _c, c′_, conical wire-cloth bee-escapes; _ex, ex′_, exits of
-same. (From Insect Life.)]
-
- LANGDON NON-SWARMING DEVICE.
-
-This device (fig. 70, _D_), first described and illustrated in Insect
-Life for April, 1893 (Vol. V, No. 4), is designed to do more than
-merely prevent swarming. The following claims are made by the inventor:
-
- (1) It prevents all swarming without caging queens, cutting out
- queen cells or manipulation of brood combs.
-
- (2) Two light colonies that would not do much in sections if
- working separately make one good one by running the field force
- of both into the same set of supers.
-
- (3) No bait sections are needed, as the bees can be crowded into
- the sections without swarming.
-
- (4) The honey will be finished in better condition, that is, with
- less travel stain, because the union of the field forces enables
- them to complete the work in less time.
-
- (5) There will be fewer unfinished sections at the close of the
- honey harvest for the reason just mentioned.
-
- (6) Also for the same reason honey can be taken off by the full
- case instead of by the section or holderful.
-
- (7) Drones will be fewer in number, as a double handful will often
- be killed off in the closed hive while the other is storing
- honey rapidly.
-
- (8) Artificial swarms and nuclei can be more easily made, as combs
- of brood and bees can be taken from the closed hive in which the
- queen can be found very quickly.
-
- (9) It enables one to care for more than twice as many colonies as
- under the swarming system.
-
-Results according with the claims mentioned above have been reported
-from various localities, but numerous adverse reports have also been
-given, the latter indicating clearly that some modification of the
-device is necessary if it is to be made generally serviceable. A
-further trial of the principle under varying conditions and climates
-will also be required to decide its exact value.
-
-The manner of using the device is simple. Before the colonies swarm
-the device is attached to the fronts of two adjacent hives. The slide
-(fig. 70, _sl_) having been inserted at one end of the device, the bees
-returning from the fields are all run into the other hive, on which the
-supers are then placed. Before the colony, thus made doubly populous,
-decides to swarm, the slide and supers are both changed to the other
-hive. This is repeated every four or five days during the swarming
-period.
-
- SELECTION IN BREEDING.
-
-Some races of bees show greater inclination than others toward
-swarming, and the same difference can be noted between individual
-colonies of a given race; therefore, whatever methods be adopted to
-prevent or limit increase, no doubt the constant selection of those
-queens to breed from whose workers show the least tendency toward
-swarming would in time greatly reduce this disposition. Indeed, it is
-perfectly consistent to believe that persistent effort, coupled with
-rigid and intelligent selection, will eventually result in a strain
-of bees quite as much entitled to be termed non-swarming as certain
-breeds of fowls which have been produced by artificial selection are to
-be called non-sitters. These terms are of course only relative, being
-merely indicative of the possession of a certain disposition in a less
-degree than that shown by others of the same species. It might never
-be possible to change the nature of our honey bees so completely that
-they would never swarm under any circumstances, and even if possible it
-would take a long period, so strongly implanted seems this instinct.
-But to modify it is within the reach of any intelligent breeder who
-will persistently make the effort. Such work should be undertaken in
-experimental apiaries where its continuance when a single point has
-been gained will not be affected by the changes of individual fortunes.
-
-Many features connected with swarming still remain mysteries. The whole
-subject requires still more study, and its full elucidation would no
-doubt be of great practical value to apiculture. The field is inviting.
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER XI.
-
- =WINTERING BEES.=
-
-
-There will be little complaint of losses in wintering bees, whether in
-a cold climate or a warm one, whether indoors or outside, provided the
-following points are observed with each colony:
-
-(1) _The colony must have a good queen._--By a good queen is meant one
-not over two years old and which shows no signs of failure during the
-latter part of the season. It is preferable to have a queen of the
-current season's raising. Such a queen, if reared from good stock and
-under good conditions during the latter part of the summer, will be in
-her prime the following spring, and if no other conditions are lacking
-will have her colony strong for the harvest.
-
-(2) _Plenty of good bees._--Bees that are several months old or that
-have gathered a heavy fall harvest of honey are not good to depend
-upon for the winter. They drop off gradually of old age before there
-are young bees to fill their places, and the queen, however prolific,
-not having bees enough to cover her eggs, can not bring up, as she
-otherwise would, the strength of the colony to a proper standard in
-time for the harvest. There should be young bees emerging at all times
-up to the month of October, or, in the South, even later.
-
-(3) _Good food and plenty of it._--Any well-ripened sealed honey
-that is not crystallized is good winter food. Honeydew stored by
-bees and honey from a few flowers (cruciferous plants, asters, etc.)
-crystallizes in the combs soon after it is gathered and the bees are
-obliged to liquefy it as they use it. They can not do this well in dry,
-cold weather, and dampness within the hive, though it might enable
-the bees to liquefy the crystallized honey, is otherwise inimical to
-bee life, especially so during winter. Some of the crystallized food
-is also wasted; hence the bees may starve even though the fall weight
-indicated sufficient stores for winter. Disastrous results are very
-likely, therefore, to follow the attempt to winter on such food.
-
-The removal of all pollen when preparing bees for winter has been
-advised by some, who assert that it is unfit winter food and produces
-dysentery. It will not, of course, alone sustain the life of the adult
-bees, but if all conditions are right no more of it will be eaten than
-the bees require to repair the waste of bodily tissue, and this being
-slight in winter the consumption is small as long as other food lasts.
-The pollen grains which by accident find their way into honey as the
-bees gather it would probably be quite sufficient to supply this waste
-in the case of the adult workers and no harm would result to these bees
-from the substitution of other combs for those containing pollen. But
-good colonies should begin brood rearing in January or February, and
-pollen or a suitable substitute for it containing nitrogen most then
-be present or the nurse bees will be subjected to a fearful drain on
-their vitality to supply the rich nitrogenous secretion required by
-the developing larvæ; in fact, they can not do so long, and the colony
-dwindles. This absurd theory that bees can not have access to pollen in
-winter without detrimental results can best be answered by referring to
-the well-known fact that a colony in a large box or straw hive, freely
-ventilated, yet having some part of the hive protected from drafts
-of air and kept dry, will almost invariably come out strong in the
-spring if populous in the fall, heavy with honey, and having a young
-and vigorous queen. The pollen, it could not possibly be claimed, had
-been injurious to such colonies, although they always gather and store
-it without restriction, and are not disturbed in the possession of it.
-In truth, their stores of pollen have constituted an important factor
-in their development, and the strong instinct which they have toward
-making accumulations of pollen for winter use and which they have
-exercised for thousands of years undisturbed is of great benefit to
-them.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 71.--Percolator for preparation of winter food.
-(Original.)]
-
-Other conditions being equal, those colonies having the most honey
-stored compactly in the brood apartment and close about the very
-center where the last brood of young bees should emerge, are the ones
-which will winter best. Forty pounds for a northern latitude and 30
-in the middle sections of the Tinted States may be considered only a
-good supply. When natural stores are found to be lacking in the brood
-chamber, the best substitute is a sirup made of granulated sugar, which
-should be fed early in the autumn as rapidly as the bees can manipulate
-it and store it away. If given slowly the bees will be incited to rear
-brood unseasonably, and will consume much of the food in this way.
-If several pounds be given at a time--placed in the top story of the
-colony to be fed, just at nightfall--it will be stored away quickly,
-so that in a week at most the full winter stores will be completed.
-The bees will seal it over better if fed slowly at the last; that is,
-after the main feeding. Sirup made by percolation of cold water through
-a mass of sugar and then through some porous material, as cotton, is
-what is called a completely saturated solution; that is, it contains
-all the sugar the water can be made to hold, and will not trouble
-by granulation (fig. 71). The same difficulty is avoided by adding
-well-ripened honey to moderately thick sirup, about one-fourth or
-one-fifth as much honey as sirup. Molasses, brown sugar, glucose, etc.,
-are not suitable for winter stores for bees.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 72.--The American straw hive of Hayek Bros.]
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 73.--Davis hive with newspapers packed between
-inner and outer cases, and brood frames on end for the winter.
-(Original.)]
-
-It is poor policy to permit bees to enter winter quarters without an
-abundance of stores--better twice the amount that will be actually
-consumed than merely enough to enable them to live through.
-
-(4) _The bees must be kept dry and warm._--A substantial hive with
-a tight roof will keep rain and snow from the cluster; but the bees
-must have air even during the severest weather and also when in their
-most quiescent state; hence the question of ventilation has to be
-considered. It has occasioned more discussion and experimentation
-than any other point concerned in the wintering of bees. The amount
-of ventilation both indoors and outside, whether upward ventilation
-or lower ventilation, or both, and whether through the wooden walls
-of the hive alone, have given rise to thousands of experiments based
-on all sorts of theories, and innumerable losses have resulted. The
-matter is really more complicated than would seem at first thought. The
-warm air about the bodies of the bees (the winter temperature of the
-cluster being about 72° F.) coming in contact with the cold surfaces
-of combs of honey in ordinary hives, or with the inner Avails of such
-hives, condensation and deposition of moisture occurs. During severe
-weather this accumulates in the shape of hoarfrost, which, melting with
-a rise of temperature, trickles down over the combs, the walls of the
-hive, and the bees themselves, and, entering the honey cells through
-the somewhat porous capping, sours the honey with which it mixes. The
-soured food, dampness, and chilling of the bees combine to bring on
-diarrhea, which is sure to weaken and decimate the colony if it does
-not exterminate it. To avoid these troubles the surplus moisture of the
-hive must be carried away by free ventilation, which at the same time
-supplies pure air, but which does not create drafts in the hive nor
-permit such an escape of heat as will chill the cluster through. Straw
-hives (fig. 72) do this well; also the forms shown in figs. 73 and 74
-if well packed over the combs and ventilated above the packing.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 74.--Double-walled hive adapted to outdoor
-wintering as well as summer use below 40° north latitude in the United
-States. Thickness of each wall, ⅜ inch; space between walls, 2 inches,
-packed with dry chaff or ground cork. (Original.)]
-
-(5) _There should be no manipulation out of season._--Breaking up the
-cluster and exposing the individual bees and their combs to a low
-temperature, as well as causing them to gorge themselves with honey
-when an opportunity for a cleansing flight may not occur soon, are also
-causes which bring on diarrheal difficulties. Feeding to complete the
-winter stores, when necessary, should be done soon after the last honey
-flow, so that the bees will settle down for the winter on the approach
-of cool autumn days. After this they are better off if left undisturbed
-until the final work of preparing them for winter is done, which, if
-the hive is well arranged, will be no material disturbance to the bees.
-It is always preferable not to be obliged to touch the brood combs or
-disturb the cluster when the weather is too cold for the bees to fly
-freely.
-
-
- OUTDOOR WINTERING.
-
-A consideration of the requirements above mentioned leads at once to
-the essential features of any plan of outdoor wintering that may be
-followed in the colder portions of our country with uniform success,
-namely, the presence in the colony of a vigorous queen less than two
-years old; a good cluster of healthy bees bred the latter part of the
-season, that is, of sufficient numbers so that when closely clustered
-during quite cool weather late in October or November not less than six
-spaces between the brood combs, and preferably eight or nine spaces,
-shall be occupied by a good number of bees, or that the cluster shall
-be at such a time not less than 8, and preferably 10 to 12, inches
-in diameter; the stores should consist of 30 pounds of well-ripened
-honey or thick sugar sirup, stored and mostly sealed over and about
-the bees; since in a long, shallow hive the heat is too diffused,
-combs much longer than deep should be on end for the winter, to enable
-the bees to economize their natural warmth; free access of pure air,
-but without the creation of drafts, hence the entrance should be
-indirect or screened in some manner; the ventilation should permit the
-gradual passing away of the moisture-laden air of the hive, but not
-the escape of heat, hence 6 or more inches (in the coldest portions of
-the United States 10 or 12 inches) of dry, porous material, soft and
-warmth-retaining, should be on all sides of the cluster and near to
-it, the whole being protected by waterproof walls from any access of
-outside moisture. Care to establish in all cases conditions similar
-to the above before bees cease flying in the autumn will insure the
-apiarist against any serious losses in wintering out of doors, even in
-the severest portions of our country.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 75.--An apiary in Vermont--winter view. (Reproduced
-from photograph.)]
-
-In the extreme South, where bees can fly out at any time of the year,
-little extra precaution is needed for the winter beyond seeing that the
-stores do not become exhausted during a drought or a protracted rain,
-when no honey can be gathered. Just in proportion to the severity and
-length of the winter season the above general rules may be looked upon
-as applicable, always bearing in mind, however, that in the variable
-climate of the middle section of the country many of the precautions
-strictly essential in a colder climate may still be profitably
-followed, although fair results may be expected in the main without
-their strict observance.
-
-
- INDOOR WINTERING.
-
-Dry cellars or special repositories are utilized in those portions
-of the country where the cold of winter is extreme and likely to be
-somewhat continuous. Economy of food is one of the chief advantages,
-but two-thirds as much, or about 20 to 25 pounds per hive, are needed
-to bring a colony through if conditions are favorable. The colonies,
-prepared as regards bees, queens, character of stores, etc., the same
-as for outdoor wintering, are carried into the cellar or repository
-just before the first snows come or severe freezing occurs. Caps are
-removed or lifted up and cushions or mats laid on the frames. Light is
-excluded and all other disturbing influences in so far as possible,
-the effort being made to keep the temperature at about 42° F. during
-the earlier part of the winter. Later, especially after brood-rearing
-may have been begun, a somewhat higher degree is admissible--45° to
-46°, some even allowing it to go up to 50°. No definite rule can be
-given, however, since much depends upon the humidity of the air, etc.
-As long as the bees remain quiet the temperature is not too high and is
-preferably to be maintained. Should they become exceedingly restless,
-and the opportunity occur during a winter thaw to give them a cleansing
-flight, it will be advisable to return them for a few hours or a day or
-two to their summer stands, and when they have flown and quieted down,
-replace them in the cellar or repository. In the spring there should
-not be too great eagerness to get them out of the cellar, provided
-they are not restless. Their confinement indoors makes them somewhat
-sensitive to the outside cold, and due caution should be observed, else
-the ranks of the workers will become greatly decimated before young
-ones appear to take their places.
-
-The same questions regarding ventilation of hives indoors that
-puzzle many in the case of those left on their summer stands have
-been discussed over and over. All that is necessary, however, is
-to consider the same points, the question being less complicated,
-though, by reason of the greater uniformity between the temperature
-surrounding the cluster of bees and that outside the hive when the
-latter is in a suitable winter repository. Some have reported success
-in wintering in damp cellars, yet it is probable that such success was
-purely accidental, or rather occurred in spite of the dampness of the
-repository, the other conditions very likely having all been favorable,
-especially as regards ventilation of the cellar, and the important
-points of having good stores and an even temperature, which should be
-several degrees higher than is required in a dry cellar. Wintering in
-a damp repository is, however, attended in general with such risks
-that it should by all means be avoided, and the bees, even in a severe
-climate, intrusted preferably to their summer stands, if well prepared
-as regards their stores and populousness.
-
-
-
-
- CHAPTER XII.
-
- =DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES.=
-
-
- DIARRHEA AND DYSENTERY.
-
-In the chapter on wintering bees allusion has been made to certain
-conditions which bring about diarrhea in bees. Not only will soured or
-fermented honey produce this disease, but thin honey also, by requiring
-too great exertion on the part of the bees to get rid of the surplus
-moisture taken into their bodies, may indirectly cause the disease.
-Repeated complaints have been made by those located near cider mills
-that the apple juice collected by their bees was the cause of diarrhea
-and dysentery. Aphidid secretions sometimes have the same effect.
-Prolonged and intense cold in the interior of the hive, especially if
-the stores are not of the best quality, causes distention and resulting
-weakness and soiling of the hive and combs. Dampness and chilling of
-individual bees frequently cause it. The effort some make to avoid the
-dampness often results in the chilling, for the cover is removed, and
-also some portion of the packing or the quilt or honey board to let the
-air pass through to dry the interior. The true remedy is a cleansing
-flight and warmth in the hive. Should the weather not be favorable
-for this out of doors, the hive may be brought into a warm room and a
-cage of wire cloth 2 or 3 feet square placed over the entrance. When
-thoroughly warmed up the bees will fly in this and find their way back
-into the hive. It is best to leave them in the warm room two or three
-days, lowering the temperature gradually before returning the hive to
-its outside stand.
-
-
- FOUL BROOD.
-
-This disease, being highly contagious, is dreaded most of all by the
-bee keeper. It is due to the presence of minute vegetable organisms
-in the body of the bee, the larva, or the egg, which prey upon its
-tissues. These, as Prof. Frank Cheshire has shown, are bacilli, which,
-multiplying with marvelous rapidity by division and also by spores,
-are carried from hive to hive, until from a single infection the whole
-apiary is soon ruined. The particular bacillus which is commonly known
-as foul brood Professor Cheshire has described as _Bacillus alvei_,
-or hive bacillus, as it affects not only the brood but also the adult
-bees. (See Pl. XI.) The first symptoms noticeable in the hive are its
-lack of energy, then dead larvæ turned black in the cells, and finally
-sunken caps, some of them perforated slightly over larvæ and pupæ.
-
-
- Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.
-
- Plate XI.
-
- [Illustration]
-
- Bacillus Alvei (Cheshire).
-
- [Drawn from nature by Frank R. Cheshire for Jour. R. Micr. Soc., and
- here reduced one-sixth from the original plate.]
-
- Fig. 1.--Residue of larva three days dead of _bacillus alvei_;
- _b_, bacilli. Spores and degenerated trachæ cover the field.
- Fig. 2.--Healthy juices of bee larva.
- Fig. 3.--Juices of larva (living) with disease in acute stage;
- _a a_, leptothrix forms.
- Fig. 4.--Brood cells from a diseased colony; _a a_, cells containing
- healthy forms.
- Fig. 5.--Cultivation in sterilized agar-agar showing the colony form of
- bacillus.
- Fig. 6.--Same cultivation twenty-four hours later.
- Fig. 7.--Spore changing into bacilli.
- Fig. 8.--Bacillus passing into spore condition.
-
-All of these symptoms may, however, be present when no foul brood
-exists; but if, upon opening some of the cells whose caps are sunken
-or slightly punctured, a brown, ropy, putrid mass is found, which,
-when lifted on the end of a sliver of wood, glides back into the cell
-or strings down from the mass like thick sirup, it is pretty certain
-that foul brood is present. Caution is necessary or it maybe spread
-all through the apiary. The hands, as well as all tools used about
-the infected colony, should be cleansed by washing in a solution of
-corrosive sublimate (one-eighth ounce dissolved in 1 gallon water)
-before going to another hive. If but few are found diseased they should
-be burned at once--at night, when all the bees are at home. If all
-or nearly all are affected, or if the disease does not seem virulent
-and other apiaries in the neighborhood are not endangered thereby, a
-cure may be attempted. Removal of all of the combs and confinement
-of the bees in an empty box, obliging them to fast until some drop
-from hunger, followed after releasing them by liberal feeding, will
-frequently effect a cure, as indicated many years since by Mr. M.
-Quinby. The hives may be disinfected by washing in carbolic-acid
-water and used again. A second removal of the bees and fasting may
-be necessary in some cases. It will also be well to feed medicated
-sirup--1 part of carbolic acid, or phenol, to 600 or 700 parts of
-sirup. Many omit the fasting, but destroy all combs and frames and
-supply comb-foundation starters, removing four days later all combs
-built and giving a second lot of starters. It is well to supplement
-this treatment with feeding of medicated sirup. Phenol having been
-suggested to Professor Cheshire as a remedy, he experimented until he
-found that if a sirup containing 1 part of phenol to 400 or 500 parts
-of the food be poured in the cells adjacent to the brood, and the
-diseased brood, after brushing off the bees, sprayed with a solution of
-1 phenol to 50 water, a cure was speedily effected. The great risk of
-spreading the disease, as well as the time and expense which a cure by
-drugs by the fasting process involves, will cause immediate destruction
-to be resorted to as the cheapest in the end if taken in time.
-
-_Bacillus gaytoni_, also described by Professor Cheshire, is
-characterized by loss of hairy covering on the part of the workers and
-their crawling out of the hives over the ground, constantly wriggling
-their bodies until death occurs. It yields, according to Professor
-Cheshire, to the same remedies as Bacillus alvei, but having been less
-destructive and being far more likely to disappear without effort to
-cure it, less attention has been given to it. Lately, however, it
-has been alarmingly destructive in some of the extensive apiaries of
-California. Colorado, and Texas, so that some simple remedy would be
-very welcome.
-
-
- THE WAX OR BEE MOTH.
-
-The larva of a moth known to entomologists as _Galleria mellonella_
-Linn. gnaws passages through the combs of the bees, especially those
-in or near the brood nest, often proving very destructive in weak or
-neglected colonies. The popular name, wax moth, was doubtless given
-on the supposition that the food of the larva was chiefly wax; but
-when an attempt to rear them on this substance in its usual commercial
-purity is made slight development only results. Probably chemically
-pure wax would not be touched by the larva; but in combs containing the
-larval skins left by developing bees, or containing brood or pollen,
-they reach their highest development if left undisturbed during warm
-weather, finding ample nourishment in the nitrogen-containing pollen
-and animal tissues left by the molting larvæ. To protect themselves
-from the bees they line their galleries through the combs with a strong
-web of silk and are able to retreat or advance rapidly through them
-when attacked. The observing bee keeper will occasionally notice the
-moths resting during the daytime on the corners of the hives or under
-the roof projections or edges of the bottom boards. Its color is dull
-or ashy gray, with light and dark streaks, making it so nearly like a
-protruding sliver of a weather-beaten board as to protect it materially
-from its enemies when resting on any unpainted surface that has been
-long exposed. At nightfall the moths may be seen flitting about the
-hive entrances, seeking an opportunity to enter and deposit their eggs.
-If prevented by the bees, which are then instinctively on the alert,
-they deposit in the crevices between the hive and stand or between the
-hive and cap. The minute larvæ as they emerge soon make their way into
-the interior of the hive. It is possible also that some of the eggs
-of the moth may be left where the bees crawling over them carry them
-into the hive by accident, the freshly laid egg adhering readily to
-any substance it touches. In the northern and middle sections of the
-United States two broods are reared, the first appearing in May, the
-second and larger brood in midsummer or even August. The eggs deposited
-by the last brood develop slowly in the cooler autumn weather, but
-usually reach the pupal stage, in which they normally pass the winter.
-Individual moths may, however, be seen about the apiary during June and
-July, and even into the autumn, so that egg deposition is constantly
-going on, and any combs removed from the hive and left unprotected by
-bees, especially if in a warm apartment or a closed box, will soon be
-in complete possession of the destructive larvæ, which wax fat and
-soon reduce them to a mass of webs. The only remedies are to keep the
-combs under the constant protection of the bees, or, if the colonies
-are not populous enough to cover them fairly, the combs should be hung
-so as to leave a space between them in a cupboard or large box which
-can be closed tightly, so as to subject them for some time to the fumes
-generated by throwing a handful or two of sulphur on live coals, or to
-the odors of bisulphide of carbon in an open vial. Caution is needed in
-the use of the latter, since it is highly inflammable.
-
-Oriental races of bees are more energetic than others in clearing out
-wax-moth larvæ, and Carniolans and Italians more so than the common
-bees. But in colonies always supplied with good queens the wax-moth
-larvæ make little headway, and it is therefore only the neglected
-hives that are seriously troubled. Moth-trap attachments or moth-proof
-hives are therefore of no use, unless, in the case of the former,
-larvæ seeking a secure place in which to pupate may be caught; but
-that implies frequent examination, and the same or less attention to
-the colony itself will suffice to do away with almost any breeding of
-moths. Hives proof against the entrance of wax-moth larvæ would, as
-the statements here made regarding the breeding habits of the moth
-indicate, exclude the bees also. From the foregoing it can be readily
-seen that the attentive apiarist no longer regards the wax moth as a
-serious pest.
-
-
- BRAULA OR "BEE LOUSE."
-
-A wingless dipteron, _Braula cæca_ Nitsch, known under the common name
-of "bee louse," is a troublesome parasite on bees in Mediterranean
-countries, the adults, which are very large in proportion to the host,
-gathering on the thoraces of the workers, rarely of the drones, but
-in great numbers on the queens. The writer has removed seventy-five
-at one time from a queen, though ordinarily the numbers do not exceed
-a dozen. When numerous they render the queen weak by the removal of
-vital fluids. The insect has frequently been imported to this country
-on queens with attendant bees, but thus far has probably gained no
-foothold. Likely it will never do so in the North, but the case might
-be different in any region resembling southern Europe in climate, and
-it is by all means advisable to remove every one from any queen or
-worker arriving here infested with them.
-
-
- OTHER ENEMIES.
-
-_Robber flies, dragon flies, etc._--Several species of _Asilus_ and
-related predaceous Diptera do not live upon injurious insects alone,
-but also capture and devour honey bees. They are more destructive in
-the South than elsewhere. The same is true of the neuropterous insects
-known as mosquito hawks, dragon flies, or devil's darning needles.
-There seems to be no remedy for any of these except that of frightening
-them away when noticed about the apiary. The "stinging bugs," belonging
-in the hemipterous family Phymatidæ, often capture and destroy workers
-as they visit the flowers. No remedy is practicable.
-
-_Ants and wasps._--Some of the larger ants and social wasps are very
-troublesome to the apiarist in tropical and even in subtropical
-regions. They seize the workers and cut them in pieces with their
-powerful jaws. Having once reduced the hive defenders, they even make
-bold to enter and carry off the queen as well as help themselves to
-honey. Trapping them with honey or with meat and killing them, as well
-as destroying the nests when found, are the only remedies. The paper
-nests are easily burned away, while an effectual remedy against ants is
-to open the hill and pour in an ounce or two of bisulphide of carbon.
-
-_Spiders._--Webs made about hive entrances often capture bees as well
-as wax moths, and, notwithstanding this last-mentioned point in their
-favor, they had better be removed.
-
-_Toads and lizards._--These devour many bees, and whenever found near
-the hives should be destroyed or removed to the vegetable garden.
-
-_Birds._--Swallows and kingbirds have been accused of eating many bees.
-It is probable that the destruction of injurious insects by them more
-than makes amends for the bees taken. This was clearly proven in the
-case of the kingbird, stomachs of which, examined at the United States
-Department of Agriculture, showed only a very small percentage of honey
-bees, and these mostly drones.
-
-
- MAMMALS.
-
-Mice gaining access to the hive during winter gnaw out among the combs
-a nest cavity and eat honey, pollen, and bees. Low entrances, covered,
-if found necessary, with a strip of tin, will prevent the mice from
-gnawing larger holes, yet permit the bees to pass in and out. Skunks
-sometimes disturb hive entrances and catch bees as they come out. This
-is particularly vexatious in the winter, when colonies should be left
-quiet. In mountain localities, bears, led by their fondness for honey,
-still occasionally overturn beehives. The remedies for both of these
-are, of course, shooting or trapping.
-
-
- ROBBER BEES.
-
-When forage is scarce in the field, bees belonging to different
-colonies often wage fierce wars over the stores already in hives.
-Thousands are killed and the victors relentlessly carry off as booty
-every drop of honey from the vanquished hive, leaving its bees to
-starve miserably. A great stir and loud buzzing in the hive of the
-conquerors attests their rejoicing over the ill-gotten gains. Nor have
-they any code of morals which inclines them to select as opponents
-forces equal in strength to their own. With them "all's fair in war."
-Their only object is plunder, and they therefore select the most
-defenseless, a colony disorganized through loss of its queen being an
-especial mark for a combined attack.
-
-Extreme caution to prevent robbing is always advisable. A little
-carelessness or neglect in the apiary early in the spring or toward
-the latter part of the season may result in much loss. It is easier to
-prevent robbing than to check it at once or without loss after it is
-well under way. Leaving honey exposed about the apiary often induces
-robbers to begin their work; hence extracting and similar work must
-be done in bee-proof rooms whenever the bees are not gathering honey
-freely. It may at such times be necessary to do all manipulating early
-in the morning, before many of the bees have begun to fly, or later in
-the day, after they have ceased, or even under a tent made of mosquito
-netting and placed temporarily over the hive to be manipulated.
-Queenless and weak colonies should be put in order if possible before
-the honey flow ceases. In any event the entrances of such hives should
-be contracted until but few or even no more than one bee can gain
-access to the interior at one time. Professor Cheshire has devised an
-excellent entrance block to prevent or check robbing. This is shown in
-fig. 70, and is so simple that anyone can make it. When contracted and
-placed at the hive entrance it will be seen that the robbers must make
-their way through a narrow and bent passage, something they are loath
-to attempt, especially if at the first onset they find the passage well
-guarded.
-
-[Illustration: Fig. 76.--Cheshire anti-robbing entrance: _st_,
-stationary piece; _s_, slide; _p_, pin or stop. (Redrawn.)]
-
-If robbing has begun it may sometimes be stopped by throwing coarse
-grass or weeds over the entrance of the hive attacked, or by leaning
-a pane of glass against its front, the entrance being, of course,
-contracted as indicated above. These plans tend to confuse the robbers
-for a time, and meanwhile the rightful occupants of the hive may be
-able to organize for defense. If convenient the colony attacked may be
-moved a distance of a half mile or more and placed as far as possible
-from other apiaries until it can recuperate. Another plan in extreme
-cases is to put the colony in a dark cellar for a few days, confining
-the bees to the hive with wire cloth, so as to allow plenty of
-ventilation, as described under the head of "Moving bees." When brought
-out of the cellar it is well to place the colony on a new stand, apart
-from the other bees, contract the entrance, and lean a board against
-the front of the hive. It is also safest to bring it out late in the
-day, even just at dusk, so the bees will begin flying from it gradually
-and not attract the attention of robbers. It may be well, when removing
-a colony from its stand to save it from robbers, to put in its place
-a hive with combs containing a little honey and pollen. The robbers,
-instead of scattering and entering adjacent hives, will continue to
-visit the same stand, their numbers gradually diminishing as the honey
-gives out and the pollen is sucked dry. If meanwhile the entrances of
-adjoining hives have been contracted and these colonies are fairly
-strong and in normal condition, individual robbers will be successively
-repulsed as they appear. Quiet will thus be eventually restored.
-
-
- LAYING WORKERS.
-
-Although laying workers are not strictly enemies of their kind, their
-work hastens the extinction of the colony to which they belong, in case
-the latter has become queenless and is without the means of rearing
-another queen. They cause the expenditure of the stores and strength
-of the colonies in a vain though well-meant endeavor to perpetuate
-their species; the eggs which laying workers deposit, and for whose
-development through the larval stage much honey and pollen are
-required, only resulting in the production of a lot of drones, for the
-most part weak and dwarfed.
-
-If not discovered until the hive is nearly depopulated, the remaining
-old bees should be brushed off, and the combs, after the sealed drone
-brood has been unmapped and jarred out, may be distributed among other
-colonies. Should the affected colony still be worth saving, combs
-containing emerging bees should be added and a queen introduced a few
-days later, or a queen cell inserted, as soon as the added brood has
-stocked the hive well with young bees.
-
-
-
-
- =BOOKS AND JOURNALS RELATING TO APICULTURE.=
-
-The following are among the leading books and journals relating to
-apiculture:
-
- BOOKS.
-
- Langstroth on the Honey Bee. Revised edition, 1889. By Chas. Dadant
- & Son.
- Quinby's New Bee Keeping; or The Mysteries of Bee Keeping Explained.
- 1884. By L. C. Root.
- The A B C of Bee Culture: A Cyclopædia of Everything Pertaining to the
- Care of the Honey Bee. By A. I. Root.
- Advanced Bee Culture: Its Methods and Management. 1891. By W. Z.
- Hutchinson.
- Bees and Bee Keeping, Scientific and Practical. By Frank R. Cheshire.
- In two volumes: Vol. I (scientific), Vol. II (practical). Published
- in London, England.
- The Bee Keeper's Guide; or Manual of the Apiary. By A. J. Cook.
- A Modern Bee Farm and its Economic Management. By S. Simmins. Published
- in London, England.
- The Blessed Bees. By John Allen.
- Bee Keeping for Profit. By Dr. G. L. Tinker.
-
- JOURNALS.
-
- The American Bee Journal. Weekly. Chicago, Ill.
- Gleanings in Bee Culture. Semimonthly. Medina, Ohio.
- The Bee Keepers' Review. Monthly. Flint, Mich.
- The American Bee Keeper. Monthly. Falconer, N. Y.
- The Progressive Bee Keeper. Monthly. Higginsville, Mo.
- The Southland Queen. Monthly. Beeville, Texas.
- The Western Bee Keeper. Monthly. Denver, Colo.
-
-
- * * * * *
-
-
- Transcriber Note
-
-Minor typos corrected. Illustrations repositioned where they split
-paragraphs.
-
-
-
-
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-*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK USDA, BULLETIN NO. 1. (N.S.)
-THE HONEY BEE: A MANUAL OF INSTRUCTION IN APICULTURE ***
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-<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of USDA, Bulletin No. 1. (N.S.) The honey bee: a manual of instruction in apiculture, by Frank Benton</p>
-<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online
-at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you
-are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the
-country where you are located before using this eBook.
-</div>
-
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: USDA, Bulletin No. 1. (N.S.) The honey bee: a manual of instruction in apiculture</p>
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Frank Benton</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: April 27, 2022 [eBook #67942]</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p>
- <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Tom Cosmas produced from materials generously made available at The Internet Archive and placed in the Public Domain.</p>
-<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK USDA, BULLETIN NO. 1. (N.S.) THE HONEY BEE: A MANUAL OF INSTRUCTION IN APICULTURE ***</div>
-
-
-
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="cover" style="width: 359px;">
- <img src="images/cover.png" width="359" height="608" alt="USDA: Bull. 1.--the Honey Bee: a Manual of Instruction in Apiculture, by Frank Benton" />
-</div>
-
-
-
-<p>Bull. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Agriculture.</p>
-
-<p><span class="smcap">Frontispiece.</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="Frontispiece" style="width: 662px;">
- <img src="images/apiary_in_maryland.png" width="662" height="375" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">An Apiary in Maryland.</span></div>
-</div>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">- 1 -</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="Bulletin_No_1_New_Series_Third_Edition"><span class="smcap">Bulletin No. 1. New Series. (Third Edition.)</span></h2>
-</div>
-
-<p>U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.</p>
-
-<p>DIVISION OF ENTOMOLOGY.</p>
-
-
-
-<h1>THE HONEY BEE:<br />
-
-<span class="vsmall">A MANUAL OF</span><br />
-
-<span class="smaller">INSTRUCTION IN APICULTURE</span></h1>
-
-
-<p class="tdc">BY</p>
-
-<h2>FRANK BENTON, M. S.,</h2>
-
-<p class="tdc">ASSISTANT ENTOMOLOGIST.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="usda_logo" style="width: 179px;">
- <img src="images/usda_logo.png" width="179" height="179" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-
-<p>WASHINGTON:</p>
-
-<p>GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE.</p>
-
-<p>1899.</p>
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">- 3 -</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak">LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>
-<span class="smcap">U. S. Department of Agriculture</span>,<br />
-<br />
-<span class="smcap">Division of Entomology</span>,<br />
-<i>Washington, D. C, May 27, 1899</i>.<br />
-</p>
-
-<p><span class="smcap">Sir:</span> I have the honor to transmit herewith for republication a manual
-entitled, The Honey Bee: A Manual of Instruction in Apiculture, by
-Mr. Frank Benton, who has been in charge of the apiarian work of this
-Division for several years. The constant demand for information concerning
-bee culture for a long time indicated a need for such a public
-manual, and the work was begun and nearly completed under the direction
-of my predecessor, Dr. G. V. Riley. The manuscript was submitted
-September 20, 1895, and the edition of 1,000 copies was soon
-exhausted. In April, 1896, Congress ordered a reprint of 20,000 copies,
-in which some corrections and additions were made by the author. He
-has also taken advantage of the reprint of another (the third) edition
-to make some slight additional changes.</p>
-
-<p>The apiarian industry in the United States is practically a development
-of the last forty years, although isolated individuals were engaged
-in this work long prior to that time. The importance of the industry
-at the present day is not generally realized, and the following figures
-will probably be surprising to many well-informed individuals:</p>
-
-<table class="tblcont" summary="data">
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Apiarian societies in the United States</td>
- <td class="tdr">110</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Apiarian journals</td>
- <td class="tdr">8</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Steam factories for the manufacture of beehives<br />
- &nbsp;&nbsp;and apiarian implements</td>
- <td class="tdr">15</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Honey produced in the United States in 1869<br />
- &nbsp;&nbsp;(according to United States Census Report)</td>
- <td class="tdr">pounds&nbsp;14,702,815</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Honey produced in the United States in 1889<br />
- &nbsp;&nbsp;(according to United States Census Report)</td>
- <td class="tdr">pounds&nbsp;63,894,186</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Persons engaged in the culture of bees (estimated)</td>
- <td class="tdr">300,000</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Honey and wax produced, at wholesale rates<br />
- &nbsp;&nbsp;(Eleventh Census)</td>
- <td class="tdr">$7,000,000</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Mr. Benton's estimate of the present annual<br />
- &nbsp;&nbsp;value of apiarian products</td>
- <td class="tdr">$20,000,000</td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-<p>As supplementary to these figures it may be stated that in addition
-to the 15 steam-power factories there is a very largo number of smaller
-factories, using mainly hand and horse power, which are engaged in the
-production of supplies, such as hives, smokers, honey extractors, sections,
-comb foundation, and other apiarian apparatus. It is estimated
-by Mr. Benton that the present existing flora of the United States
-could undoubtedly support, with the same average profit, ten times the
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">- 4 -</span>
-number of colonies of bees it now supports. This branch of agricultural
-industry does not impoverish the soil in the least, but, on the
-contrary, results in better seed and fruit crops. The total money gain
-to the country from the prosecution of this industry would undoubtedly
-be placed at several times the amount given in the table above
-were we only able to estimate in dollars and cents the result of the
-work of bees in cross fertilizing the blossoms of fruit crops. In support
-of this it is only necessary to refer to the fact that recent investigations
-by another division of this Department have shown that
-certain varieties of pear are nearly or quite sterile unless bees bring
-pollen from other distinct varieties for their complete cross fertilization.
-I respectfully recommend the publication of this manual as No. 1 of
-the new series of bulletins of this Division.</p>
-
-<p class="tdc">Respectfully,<br />
-<span style="padding-left: 6em;">&nbsp;</span><span class="smcap">L. O. Howard</span>,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<br />
-<span style="padding-left: 6em;">&nbsp;</span>&nbsp;&nbsp;<i>Entomologist</i>.</p>
-
-<p>Hon. <span class="smcap">James Wilson</span>,<br />
-<span style="padding-left: 4em;">&nbsp;</span><i>Secretary of Agriculture</i>.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">- 5 -</span></p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="PREFACE">PREFACE.</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>This treatise is designed to make the practical management of an
-apiary plain to those whose acquaintance with the subject is limited,
-and to direct such as may find in it a pleasant and profitable occupation
-to a system of management which may be followed on an extensive
-scale with the certainty of fair remuneration for the labor and
-capital required. With this object in view the author has deemed it
-best to treat the natural history of the bee but briefly, and also to give
-little space to matters which are in question, or to different methods of
-accomplishing given results, or to such as are only adapted to a limited
-portion of the country, but rather to explain one settled way widely
-applicable and which will lead to success. The methods advised here
-are such as the author has found practical during an extended experience,
-yet in regard to numerous details many works&mdash;both foreign and
-American&mdash;have been consulted, none more freely than Langstroth on
-the Honey Bee, revised by Chas. Dadant &amp; Son, and Bees and Bee
-Keeping, by Prof. F. R. Cheshire.</p>
-
-<p>Many of the illustrations were specially prepared for this bulletin.
-Some have been taken from publications of the Department of Agriculture.
-These include some of the smaller illustrations of honey-producing
-plants and also Plates III to X, which are from reports of
-the Botanist of the Department. Plates II and XI, and figures 5, 6,
-8, 44, 50, 51, and 76 are copied from Cheshire; figs. 08 and 69 from
-Simmins. The Department is also under obligations to the A. I. Root
-Company, to Chas. Dadant &amp; Son, T. F. Bingham, Hayek Bros., Tan
-Allen &amp; Williams, and Dr. T. L. Tinker, for electrotypes.</p>
-
-<p class="tdr">
-<span class="smcap">Frank Benton.</span><br />
-</p>
-
-<p><span class="smcap">Washington, D. C.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">- 7 -</span></span></p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak">CONTENTS.</h2>
-</div>
-
-<table class="tblcont" summary="Contents">
-<tr>
- <td></td>
- <td class="tdr smaller">Page.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Chapter I.</span>&mdash;Classification of the honey bee</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">11</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The different species and races</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_11">11</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Common East Indian honey bee, <i>Apis indica</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tiny East Indian honey bee, <i>Apis florea</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Giant East Indian honey bee, <i>Apis dorsata</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Common hive or honey bee, <i>Apis mellifera</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cyprians</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Italians</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_16">16</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Carniolans</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_17">17</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;German, common black or brown bees</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Chapter II.</span>&mdash;Kinds of bees composing a colony&mdash;Bee
- products<br />and description of combs&mdash;Development of brood</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">19</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Kinds of bees in a colony</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bee products and organs used in their preparation</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Nectar and honey</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Propolis</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bee poison and the sting</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Water</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Silk</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Wax</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Combs</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_26">26</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Development of brood</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_28">28</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The worker</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The drone</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_30">30</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Chapter III.</span> Quieting and manipulating bees</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">31</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Chapter IV.</span> Establishing an apiary: Time&#8212;Selecting hives<br />
- &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;of bees&#8212;Moving bees Selection of site</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">35</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Selection of stocks</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_35">35</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Moving bees</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Selection of site</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_38">38</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Chapter V.</span> Hives and implements</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">40</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Hives</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_40">40</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Implements</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bee smokers</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Veils</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_48">48</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Honey extractors and honey knives</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Wax extractors</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Queen introducing-cages</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bee feeders</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_51">51</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Section folders</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bee escapes</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Foundation fasteners</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Comb-foundation machines</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_54">54</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Chapter VI.</span> Bee pasturage
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">- 8 -</span></td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">56</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cultivation of honey plants</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bees as cross fertilizers</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_62">62</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Honey and pollen producing plants</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Chapter VII.</span> Spring manipulation</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">69</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Transferring</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_71">71</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Queenlessness in spring</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_74">74</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Chapter VIII.</span> Securing surplus honey and wax</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">75</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Extracted honey</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Comb honey</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Putting on sections</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Production of wax</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_84">84</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Chapter IX.</span> Rearing and introducing queens</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">87</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mailing queens</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_92">92</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Introducing queens</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Chapter X.</span> Increase of colonies</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">95</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Natural swarming</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Clipping queens</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Automatic hivers</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_98">98</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Prevention of after-swarming</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_98">98</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Artificial increase</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_99">99</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dividing</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Driving or brushing</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The nucleus system</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Prevention of swarming</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Dequeening</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_102">102</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Requeening</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_102">102</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Space near entrances</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_103">103</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Langdon non-swarming device</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_104">104</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Selection in breeding</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_105">105</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Chapter XI.</span> Wintering bees</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">106</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Outdoor wintering</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_109">109</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Indoor wintering</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_111">111</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Chapter XII.</span> Diseases and enemies of bees</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">112</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Diarrhea and dysentery</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_112">112</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Foul brood</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_112">112</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The wax moth</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_113">113</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Braula or bee louse</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_115">115</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Other enemies</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_115">115</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Robber flies, dragon flies, etc.</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_115">115</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ants and wasps</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_115">115</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Spiders</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Toads and lizards</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Birds</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Mammals</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Robber bees</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Laying workers</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Brief list of books and journals relating to apiculture</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_118">118</a></td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">- 9 -</span></p>
-
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak">ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2>
-</div>
-
-<h3>PLATES.</h3>
-
-<table class="tblcont" summary="Contents">
-<tr>
- <td colspan="3"></td>
- <td class="tdr smaller">Page.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="3" class="tdl">An apiary in Maryland</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Frontispiece">Frontispiece.</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl vtop" rowspan="11"><span class="smcap">Plate</span></td>
- <td class="tdr">I.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Honey bees</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Plate_I">16</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">II.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Digestive system of bee</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Plate_II">22</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">III.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Alfalfa (<i>Medicago saliva</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Plate_III">64</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">IV.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Esparcet or sainfoin (<i>Onobrychis sativa</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Plate_IV">64</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">V.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Sweet clover or melilot (<i>Melilotus alba</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Plate_V">64</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">VI.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Acacia (<i>Acacia constricta</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Plate_IV">64</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">VII.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Mesquite (<i>Prosopis juliflora</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Plate_VII">64</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">VIII.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Blue weed or viper's bugloss (<i>Echium vulgare</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Plate_VIII">64</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">IX.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Crimson clover (<i>Trifolium incarnatum</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Plate_IX">64</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">X.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Alsike clover (<i>Trifolium hybridum</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Plate_X">64</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">XI.</td>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Bacillus alvei</i></td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#Plate_XI">112</a></td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-<h3>TEXT FIGURES.</h3>
-
-<table class="tblcont" summary="Contents">
-<tr>
- <td class="tdc vtop" rowspan="76"><span class="smcap">Fig.</span></td>
- <td class="tdr">1.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Worker cells of common East Indian honey bee (<i>Apis indica</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig1">12</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">2.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Worker cells of tiny East Indian honey bee (<i>Apis florea</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig2">13</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">3.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Comb of tiny East Indian honeybee (<i>Apis florea</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig3">14</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">4.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Worker cells of common honey bee (<i>Apis mellifera</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig4">15</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">5.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Ovaries of queen and workers</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig5">19</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">6.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Heads of queen and drone</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig6">20</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">7.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Modifications of the legs of different bees</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig7">21</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">8.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Head and tongue of <i>Apis mellifera</i> worker</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig8">22</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">9.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Wax disks of social bees</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig9">26</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">10.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Comb building, side of hive removed</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig10">27</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">11.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Cross section of brood apartment</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig11">29</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">12.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Use of veil and bee smoker</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig12">31</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">13.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Manipulation removing comb from hive</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig13">32</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">14.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Manipulation tilting to bring reverse side of comb to view</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig14">33</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">15.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Manipulation reverse side of comb brought to view</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig15">33</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">16.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Manipulation examining reverse side of comb</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig16">33</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">17.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Quinby closed-end frames</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig17">34</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">18.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Box hive prepared for transportation</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig18">37</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">19.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Frame hive prepared for transportation</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig19">37</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">20.</td>
- <td class="tdl">An apiary in Florida</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig20">38</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">21.</td>
- <td class="tdl">An apiary in California</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig21">39</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">22.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Ancient Greek movable comb hive</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig22">41</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">23.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Dadant-Quinby form of Langstroth hive with cap and gable roof</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig23">41</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">24.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Langstroth frame showing construction</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig24">42</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">25.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Form in which to nail frames</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig25">42</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">26.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Lock-joint chaff hive</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig26">43</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">27.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Manner of nailing hives</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig27">43</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">28.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Section of improved tin frame-rest
- <span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">- 10 -</span></td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig28">44</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">29.</td>
- <td class="tdl">The Langstroth hive (Dadant-Quinby form), cross section
- showing construction</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig29">45</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">30.</td>
- <td class="tdl">The Nonpareil hive</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig30">46</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">31.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Dadant-Quinby form of Langstroth hive open</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig31">46</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">32.</td>
- <td class="tdl">The Bingham bee smoker</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig32top">48</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">33.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Automatic reversible honey extractor</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig33">49</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">34.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Quinby uncapping knife</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig34">49</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">35.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Bingham &amp; Hetherington uncapping knife</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig35">49</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">36.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Excelsior wax extractor</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig36">50</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">37.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Simplicity feeder</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig37">51</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">38.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Fruit-jar bee feeder, bottom of feeding stage and
- perforated cap shown separately</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig38">51</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">39.</td>
- <td class="tdl">The Porter spring bee escape</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig39">52</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">40.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Daisy foundation fastener</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig40">53</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">41.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Fastening starter of comb foundation in frame</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig41">53</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">42.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Spur wire-embedder</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig42">54</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">43.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Comb-foundation machine</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig43">55</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">44.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Willow herb (<i>Epilobium angustifolium</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig44">57</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">45.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Wagner's flat pea (<i>Lathyrus sylvestris wagneri</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig45">59</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">46.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Dwarf Essex or winter rape (<i>Brassica napus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig46">60</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">47.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Summer or bird rape (<i>Brassica napus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig47">60</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">48.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Sacaline or giant knotweed (<i>Polygonum sachalinense</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig48">61</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">49.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Russian or hairy vetch (<i>Vicia villosa</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig49">61</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">50.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Mountain laurel (<i>Kalmia latifolia</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig50">63</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">51.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apple (<i>Pyrus malus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig51">63</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">52.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Heath-like wild aster (<i>Aster ericoides</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig52">64</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">53.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Transferring drumming the bees from a box hive into a frame hive</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig53">71</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">54.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Transferred comb and inserted queen cell</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig54">73</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">55.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Uncapping and extracting honey</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig55">77</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">56.</td>
- <td class="tdl">One-piece "V"-grooved sections</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig56">80</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">57.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Super with section holders and sections in place</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig57">80</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">58.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Dadant-Quinby form of Langstroth hive, elevated from bottom
- board and slid back for ventilation in summer</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig58">82</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">59.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Langstroth hive with combined surplus case and shipping crate</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig59">83</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">60.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Honey shipping cases</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig60">83</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">61.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Boardman solar wax extractor</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig61">85</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">62.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Comb showing worker brood and queen cells</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig62">88</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">63.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Queen cells and worker brood in various stages</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig63">89</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">64.</td>
- <td class="tdl">The Benton queen cage fur transporting a queen and attendants
- by mail</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig64">92</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">65.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Caging a queen for mailing</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig65">92</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">66.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Queen introducing-cage</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig66">94</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">67.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Hiving a swarm of bees</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig67">96</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">68.</td>
- <td class="tdl">The Simmins non-swarming system, single-story hive with supers</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig68">103</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">69.</td>
- <td class="tdl">The Simmins non-swarming system, double-story hive with supers</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig69">103</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">70.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Beehives with Langdon non-swarmer attached</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig70">104</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">71.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Percolator for preparation of winter food</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig71">107</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">72.</td>
- <td class="tdl">The American straw hive of Hayek Bros</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig72">108</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">73.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Davis hive with newspapers packed between inner and outer
- cases and brood frames on end for winter</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig73">108</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">74.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Double-walled hive adapted to outdoor wintering as well as
- summer use below 40 C north latitude in United States</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig74">109</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">75.</td>
- <td class="tdl">An apiary in Vermont winter view</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig75">110</a></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdr">76.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Cheshire anti-robbing entrance</td>
- <td class="tdr"><a href="#fig76">117</a></td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">- 11 -</span></p>
-
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h1 class="nobreak">MANUAL OF APICULTURE.</h1>
-
-
-
-<h2 id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.<br />
-
-<span class="smaller">CLASSIFICATION OF THE HONEY BEE</span></h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<h3>THE DIFFERENT SPECIES AND RACES.</h3>
-
-<p>A knowledge of the structural peculiarities and the life history of
-bees will aid anyone who essays to manage them for profit in determining
-more accurately what conditions are necessary to their greatest
-welfare. It is not to be understood that such knowledge will take the
-place of an acquaintance with those conditions under which actual
-practice has shown that bees thrive, but that it forms a good basis for
-an understanding of whatever practice has found best in the management
-of these industrious and profitable insects. It will also assist in
-pointing out in what way practice can be improved.</p>
-
-<p>In a small treatise like the present one, the object of which is to give
-in plain language the information needed by one who engages in bee
-keeping primarily for profit, it is not possible to do more than present
-a mere outline of classification and a few general facts regarding structure.
-The reader who finds them interesting and valuable in his work
-is reminded that the treatment of these matters in more extended
-volumes, such as Langstroth's, Cheshire's, etc., will be found far more so.</p>
-
-<p>Singling out from the order Hymenoptera, or membranous-winged
-insects, the family Apid&aelig;, or bee family, several marked types called
-genera are seen to compose it, such as <i>Apis</i> (the hive bee), <i>Bombus</i> (the
-bumble bee), <i>Xylocopa</i> (the carpenter bee), <i>Megachile</i> (the leaf-cutter),
-<i>Melipona</i> (the stingless honey bee of the American tropics), etc. All
-of these are very interesting to study, and each fulfills a purpose in
-the economy of nature; but the plan of these pages can only be to consider
-the first genus, <i>Apis</i>, or the hive bee. Incidentally it may be
-mentioned that the plan of introducing the stingless bees (<i>Melipona</i>)
-from tropical America has frequently been brought up with the expectation
-of realizing important practical results from it. These bees
-might possibly be kept in the warmer portions of our country, but their
-honey yield is small, not well ripened, and not easily harvested in good
-shape, since the honey cells are of dark wax, like that made by our
-bumble bees, and they are not arranged in regular order, but in irregular
-clumps like those of bumble bees. The writer had a colony under observation
-last year, and experiments have been made with them in their
-native lands as well as in European countries. Of the genus <i>Apis</i> the
-only representative in this country is <i>mellifera</i>, although several others
-are natives of Asia and Africa.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">- 12 -</span></p>
-
-
-<h3>THE COMMON EAST INDIAN HONEY BEE.</h3>
-
-<h4>(<i>Apis indica</i> Fab.)</h4>
-
-<p>The common bee of southern Asia is kept in very limited numbers
-and with a small degree of profit in earthen jars and sections of hollow
-trees in portions of the British and Dutch East Indies. They are
-also found wild, and build when in this state in hollow trees and in
-rock clefts. Their combs, composed of hexagonal wax cells, are ranged
-parallel to each other like those of <i>A. mellifera</i>, but the worker brood
-cells are smaller than those of our ordinary bees, showing 36 to the
-square inch of surface instead of 29, while the comb where worker
-brood is reared, instead of having, like that of <i>A. mellifera</i>, a thickness
-of seven-eighths inch, is but five-eighths inch thick.
-(Fig. 1.)</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig1" style="width: 105px;">
- <img src="images/fig1.png" width="105" height="233" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span>&mdash;Worker cells
-of common East Indian
-honey bee (<i>Apis indica</i>);
-natural size. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p><i>The workers.</i>&mdash;The bodies of these, three-eighths
-inch long when empty, measure about one-half inch
-when dilated with honey. The thorax is covered
-with brownish hair and the shield or crescent between
-the wings is large and yellow. The abdomen is yellow
-underneath. Above it presents a ringed appearance,
-the anterior part of each segment being orange
-yellow, while the posterior part shows bands of
-brown of greater or less width and covered with
-whitish-brown hairs; tip black. They are nimble on
-foot and on the wing, and active gatherers.</p>
-
-<p><i>The queens.</i>&mdash;The queens are large in proportion to
-their workers and are quite prolific; color, leather or
-dark coppery.</p>
-
-<p><i>The drones.</i>&mdash;These are only slightly larger than
-the workers; color, jet-like blue black, with no yellow, their strong
-wings showing changing hues like those of wasps.</p>
-
-<p>Manipulations with colonies of these bees are easy to perform if smoke
-be used, and though they are more excitable than our common hive bees,
-this peculiarity does not lead them to sting more, but seems rather
-to proceed from fear. The sting is also less severe.</p>
-
-<p>Under the rude methods thus far employed in the management of
-this bee no great yields of honey are obtained, some 10 or 12 pounds
-having been the most reported from a single hive. It is quite probable
-that if imported into this country it would do more. These bees would
-no doubt visit many small flowers not frequented by the hive bees we
-now have, and whose nectar is therefore wasted, but very likely they
-might not withstand the severe winters of the North unless furnished
-with such extra protection as would be afforded by quite warm cellars
-or special repositories.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">- 13 -</span></p>
-
-
-<h3>THE TINY EAST INDIAN HONEY BEE.</h3>
-
-<h4>(<i>Apis florea</i> Fab.)</h4>
-
-<p>This bee, also a native of East India, is the smallest known species
-of the genus. It builds in the open air, attaching a single comb to a
-twig of a shrub or small tree. This comb is only about the size of a man's
-hand and is exceedingly delicate, there being on
-each side 100 worker cells to the square inch of
-surface (figs. 2 and 3). The workers, more slender
-than house flies, though longer bodied, are
-blue-black in color, with the anterior third of
-the abdomen bright orange. Colonies of these
-bees accumulate so little surplus honey as to give
-no hope that their cultivation would be profitable.</p>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig2" style="width: 133px;">
- <img src="images/fig2.png" width="133" height="210" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption">Fig 2.&mdash;Worker cells of
-tiny East Indian honey bee
-(<span class="smcap">Apis florea</span>); natural size.
-(Original).</div>
-</div>
-
-
-<h3>THE GIANT EAST INDIAN HONEY BEE.</h3>
-
-<h4>(<i>Apis dorsata</i> Fab.)</h4>
-
-<p>This large bee (<a href="#Plate_I">Plate I, figs. 2 and 3</a>), which
-might not be inappropriately styled the Giant
-East Indian bee, has its home also in the far East&mdash;both on the continent
-of Asia and the adjacent islands. There are probably several
-varieties, more or less marked, of this species, and very likely <i>Apis
-zonata</i> Gu&eacute;r. of the Philippine Islands, reported to be even larger
-than <i>A. dorsata</i>, will prove on further investigation to be only a variety
-of the latter. All the varieties of these bees build huge combs of very
-pure wax&mdash;often 5 to 6 feet in length and 3 to 4 feet in width, which
-they attach to overhanging ledges of rocks or to large limbs of lofty
-trees in the primitive forests or jungles. When attached to limbs of
-trees they are built singly and present much the same appearance as
-those of the tiny East Indian bee, shown in the accompanying figure
-(<a href="#fig3">fig. 3</a>). The Giant bee, however, quite in contradistinction to the other
-species of Apis mentioned here, does not construct larger cells in which
-to rear drones, these and the workers being produced in cells of the
-same size. Of these bees&mdash;long a sort of a myth to the bee keepers of
-America and Europe&mdash;strange stories have been told. It has been
-stated that they build their combs horizontally, after the manner of
-paper-making wasps; that they are so given to wandering as to make
-it impossible to keep them in hives, and that their ferocity renders
-them objects greatly to be dreaded. The first real information regarding
-these points was given by the author, lb 4 visited India in
-1880-81 for the purpose of obtaining colonies of <i>Apis dorsata</i>. These
-were procured in the jungles, cutting the combs from their original
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">- 14 -</span>
-attachments, and it was thus ascertained that (as might have been
-expected in the case of any species of Apis), their combs are always
-built perpendicularly; also that the colonies placed in frame hives
-and permitted to fly freely did not desert these habitations and that,
-far from being ferocious, these colonies were easily handled by proper
-precautions, without even the use of smoke. It was also proved by
-the quantity of honey and wax present that they are good gatherers.
-The execution at that time of the plan of bringing these bees to the
-United States was prevented only by severe illness contracted in India.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig3" style="width: 320px;">
- <img src="images/fig3.png" width="320" height="341" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 3.</span>&mdash;Comb of tiny East Indian honey bee (<i>Apis florea</i>)
-one-third natural sized. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>These large bees would doubtless be able to get honey from flowers
-whose nectaries are located out of reach of ordinary bees, notably those
-of the red clover, now visited chiefly by bumble bees and which it
-is thought the East Indian
-bees might pollinate
-and cause to produce seed
-more abundantly. Even
-if no further utilizable,
-they might prove an important
-factor in the production
-in the Southern
-States of large quantities
-of excellent beeswax, now
-such an expensive article.
-Should these bees and
-the common East Indian
-bee (<i>Apis indica</i>), previously
-referred to, visit
-in the main only such
-flowers as are not adapted
-to our hive bees, their introduction,
-wherever it
-could be made successful,
-would, without decreasing
-the yield from our
-hive bees, add materially to the honey and wax production of the country.
-Theoretical conclusions as to the results of such an introduction
-can not be of much account unless based upon an intimate acquaintance
-with the nature and habits of the bees to be introduced. Enough is
-known of the small bee to remove all doubt regarding the possibility
-of its successful introduction, and it is also probable that the large one
-would prove valuable. In neither case does there appear any possibility
-that evil results might follow their introduction. There are also
-numerous other varieties or species of bees in Africa and Asia about
-which no more or even less is known, but to investigate them fully will
-require much time and considerable expense. It is a subject, however,
-that should receive careful consideration because of the possible benefits
-to apiculture and the wider beneficial effects on agriculture.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">- 15 -</span></p>
-
-
-<h3>THE COMMON HIVE OR HONEY BEE.</h3>
-
-<h4>(<i>Apis mellifera</i> Linn.)</h4>
-
-<p>Besides the common brown or German bee imported from Europe to
-this country some time in the seventeenth century and now widely
-spread from the Atlantic to the Pacific, several other races have been
-brought here&mdash;the Italian in 1860, and later the Egyptian, the Cyprian,
-the Syrian, the Palestine, the Carniolan (<a href="#Plate_I">Plate I, figs. 1, 4, and 5</a>), and
-the Tunisian. Of these the brown or German, the Italian, and, in a
-few apiaries, the Carniolan bees are probably the only races existing
-pure in the United States, the others having become more or less
-hybridized with the brown race or among themselves or their cultivation
-having been discontinued. It should also be remarked that so
-few have kept their Carniolans pure that purchasers who wish this
-race should use caution in their selection or else import their own
-breeding queens. There are many breeders of Italians from whom
-good stock can be obtained. Egyptian bees
-were tried some thirty years ago, but only to a
-very limited extent, and, as has been the case
-with Syrians and Palestines imported in 1880,
-and whose test was more prolonged and general,
-they were condemned as inferior in temper and
-wintering qualities to the races of bees already
-here, it not being thought that these points of
-inferiority were sufficiently balanced by their
-greater prolificness and their greater energy in
-honey collecting.</p>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig4" style="width: 141px;">
- <img src="images/fig4.png" width="141" height="271" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 4.</span>&mdash;Worker cells of common
-honey bee (<i>Apis mellifera</i>);
-natural size. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The Tunisians, for similar reasons and also
-because they are great collectors of propolis,
-never became popular, although a persistent
-attempt was made a few years since to create
-sale for them under the new name of "Punic
-bees," the undesirable qualities of the race having
-previously been made known, under the original
-name, by the author, who had tested them carefully for several
-years&mdash;a part of the time in Tunis.</p>
-
-<p><i>Cyprians.</i>&mdash;Bees of the race native to the Island of Cyprus have produced
-the largest yield of honey on record from a single colony in this
-country, 1,000 pounds in one season. Everyone who has fairly tested
-them admits their wonderful honey-gathering powers and their persevering
-courage in their labors even when the flowers are secreting
-honey but scantily. They winter well and defend their hives against
-robber bees and other enemies with greater energy than any other
-known race. When storing honey Cyprians till the cells quite fall
-before sealing, and thus the capping rests against the honey, presenting
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">- 16 -</span>
-a semitransparent or "watery" appearance, which is undesirable.
-They are extremely sensitive, hence easily angered by rough or bungling
-manipulators, and when once thoroughly aroused are very energetic
-in the use of their stings. These faults have caused a very
-general rejection of Cyprians, especially by those who produce comb
-honey. Even the producers of extracted honey do not seem to have
-learned how to manipulate Cyprians easily and without the use of
-much smoke, nor how much more rapidly they could free their extracting
-combs from Cyprian bees than from Italians. Nor have they
-seemed to count as of much importance the fact that Cyprians, unlike
-Italians and German or common bees, do not volunteer an attack
-when undisturbed; that they will, in fact, let one pass and repass
-their hives quite unmolested and even under such circumstances as
-would call forth a vigorous and very disagreeable protest from the
-other races just mentioned. It is to be regretted that there has been
-such a widespread rejection of a race having such important and well-established
-excellent qualities. It would be easier by selection in
-breeding to reduce the faults of this race than to bring any other cultivated
-race to their equal in the other desirable points.</p>
-
-<p>Cyprians are smaller-bodied and more slender than bees of European
-races. The abdomen is also more pointed and shows, when the bees
-are purely bred, three light orange bands on the three segments nearest
-the thorax. The underside of the abdomen is even lighter orange
-colored nearly or quite to the tip. The postscutellum&mdash;the small
-lunule-like prominence on the thorax between the bases of the wings&mdash;is
-likewise orange colored instead of dull, as in European races. The
-rest of the thorax is covered with a russet-brown pubescence. Cyprians
-are the yellowest of the original races, and their bright colors
-and symmetrical forms render them attractive objects.</p>
-
-<p><i>Italians.</i>&mdash;Through the agency of the United States Department of
-Agriculture bees of this race were introduced direct from Italy in
-1860. There had previously been repeated individual efforts to secure
-Italians bred in Germany, where the race had been introduced some
-years earlier, and a small number of queens had been landed here alive
-in the autumn of 1859, but most of these died the following winter and
-the few remaining alive seem not to have been multiplied as rapidly as
-those obtained in Italy by a purchasing agent of the Department of
-Agriculture and landed here early in 1860. Their good qualities were
-soon appreciated, and they had become well established and widely
-spread long before the Cyprians, imported twenty years later. For
-this reason, together with the fact that they cap their surplus combs
-whiter than some other races and because less skill is required in
-subduing and handling Italians, they have retained their popularity
-over bees which, though better honey gatherers, are more nervous
-under manipulation. Their golden-yellow color has also proved so
-attractive to many that the good qualities of more somber-hued races&mdash;gentler,
-better winterers, and better comb builders&mdash;have not received
-due consideration. Italians are, however, certainly preferable to the
-common brown or black bees, for they show greater energy in gathering
-honey and in the defense of their hives against moth larv&aelig; and
-robber bees, while at the same time they are gentler under manipulation
-than the blacks, though they do not winter as well in severe
-climates.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<table id="Plate_I" summary="Plate_I">
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl smaller">Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.</td>
- <td class="tdr smaller"><span class="smcap">Plate I.</span></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 474px;">
- <img src="images/plate_1.png" width="474" height="697" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="caption4nb"><span class="smcap">Honey Bees.</span></p>
-
-<table summary="Bees">
-<tr>
- <td>1.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Worker, Carniolan variety of <i>Apis mellifera</i>&mdash;twice natural size.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td>2.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Giant honey bee of East India (<i>Apis dorsata</i>), worker twice natural size.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td>3.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Giant honey bee of East India (<i>Apis dorsata</i>), drone twice natural size.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td>4.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Drone, Carniolan variety of <i>Apis mellifera</i> twice natural size.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td>5.</td>
- <td class="tdl">Queen, Carniolan variety of <i>Apis mellifera</i>&mdash;twice natural size.</td>
-</tr>
-</table>
- </td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">- 17 -</span></p>
-
-<p>Italian workers nearly equal Garniolans in size, and show across the
-abdomen when the latter is distended with honey not less than three
-yellow bands, which approach more or less a reddish or dark leathery
-color. By selection in some instances, and in others by the introduction
-of Cyprian blood, Italians and Italian hybrids have recently been
-bred which show four or five yellow bands or which are even yellow to
-the tip of the abdomen. They are certainly pleasing to the eye, and
-in case due heed has been given to the vigor and working qualities of
-the stock selected when establishing the strain, no valid objection can
-be brought against them except the tendency they have to revert to
-the original type of Italians. This is due to the comparatively short
-time they have been bred, and with each season's selection will of
-course grow less.</p>
-
-<p><i>Carniolans.</i>&mdash;These, the gray bees from the elevated Alpine province
-of Carniola, Austria, are the gentlest of all races, and as, besides their
-other good qualities, they winter the best of any, it is not surprising to
-see that they have steadily grown in favor. Their sealed combs are
-exceedingly white, as they do not fill the cells so full that the honey
-touches the capping, and they gather little propolis, qualities highly
-appreciated by the producer of comb honey. They are quite prolific,
-and if kept in small hives, such as have been popularized of late in the
-United States, are somewhat more inclined to swarm than the other
-races introduced here. This tendency becomes more pronounced when
-they are taken into a country whose summers are hot, like ours, and
-their hives are not well shaded, as they have been bred for centuries,
-with only slight introduction of outside blood, in a climate where the
-summers are short and cool. Moreover, the practice in Carniola is to
-place the long, shallow hives used almost exclusively there, in beehouses
-and side by side, one above the other, with intervening air spaces, so
-that at most only the front ends are exposed to the sun. This management
-long continued has doubtless tended to develop and fix more or
-less permanently in this race certain characteristics which should be
-taken into account in their management elsewhere. With these precautions
-they do well in all parts of the United States. (See <a href="#Plate_I">Plate I,
-figs. 1, 4, and 5</a>.)</p>
-
-<p>The Carniolan worker is readily recognized by its large form, less
-pointed abdomen, and general ashy gray coat, the abdominal segments
-especially presenting a ringed appearance on account of silvery white
-hairs which cover the posterior half of each of these segments. By
-crossing Carniolans with Italians or with Cyprians a yellow type with
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">- 18 -</span>
-silvery rings is produced, and by continued selection in breeding the
-gentle disposition of the Carniolans can be secured with the greater
-honey-gathering powers of Cyprians should these be employed in forming
-the new strain.</p>
-
-<p><i>German, common black, or brown bees.</i>&mdash;These bees are found commonly
-throughout our country from ocean to ocean, both wild and
-domesticated. Exactly when they were introduced from Europe is not
-known, but considerable evidence exists which shows that there were
-no hive bees (<i>Apis mellifera</i>) in this country for some time after the first
-colonies were established; also, it was not until near the close of the
-last century that they reached the Mississippi, and less than half a
-century has passed since the first were successfully landed on the Pacific
-Coast.</p>
-
-<p>Many bee keepers, having more attractively colored and frequently
-better bees, are inclined to consider this race as possessing hardly any
-redeeming qualities, or at least to underrate these because accompanied
-by undesirable traits. While it is true that they have some serious
-faults, the latter are not so great as those of some other races. They
-have become thoroughly acclimated since their first importation, over
-two centuries ago, and besides possessing good wintering and comb-building
-qualities, they will, when the flow of honey is quite abundant,
-generally equal Italians in gathering. But the disposition which bees
-of this race have of flying toward one who approaches the apiary and
-stinging him, even though the hives have not been molested, their way
-of running excitedly over the combs and dropping in bunches when
-they are handled, besides stinging the backs of the operator's hands,
-unless the whole colony has first been thoroughly subdued and the
-bees induced to gorge themselves with honey, or are constantly deluged
-with smoke, are very annoying to the novice who undertakes to perform
-necessary manipulations with them, and may even so discourage
-and daunt him as to cause the neglect of work of great importance
-to the welfare of the colony. The easy discouragement of bees of this
-race when a sudden check in the flow of honey occurs is also a peculiarity
-which does not commend them. These things, tending to reduce
-profits, often dampen the beginner's enthusiasm before he has acquired
-the knowledge and skill necessary to make the work genuinely successful.
-He had therefore better choose either Italians or Carniolans, and
-use as breeders only queens that are known to have mated purely.</p>
-
-<p>The common race shows considerable variation in its markings and
-qualities. The workers have a dull, rusty brown color, especially about
-the thorax. Some strains are however much darker than others and
-in general the drones are darker than the workers. In size workers,
-drones, and queens of this race are intermediate between the other
-European races and those from the Orient. The same care and skill
-applied in the selection of breeding stock would result in as great improvement
-in this as in any of the more attractive yellow races.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">- 19 -</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.<br />
-
-<span class="smaller">KINDS OF BEES COMPOSING A COLONY&mdash;BEE PRODUCTS AND
-DESCRIPTION OF COMBS&mdash;DEVELOPMENT OF BROOD.</span></h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<h3>KINDS OF BEES IN A COLONY.</h3>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig5" style="width: 267px;">
- <img src="images/fig5.png" width="267" height="395" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 5.</span>&mdash;Ovaries of queen and workers: A, abdomen
- of queen&mdash;under side (magnified eight times); P, petiole;
- O, O, ovaries; <i>hs</i>, position filled by honey sac; <i>ds</i>,
- position through which digestive system passes; <i>od</i>,
- oviduct; <i>co.d</i>, common oviduct; E, egg-passing oviduct;
- <i>s</i>, spermatheca; <i>i</i>, intestine; <i>po</i>, poison bag;
- <i>p.g</i>, poison gland; <i>st</i>, sting; <i>p</i>, palpi. B, rudimentary
- ovaries of ordinary worker; <i>sp</i>, rudimentary spermatheca.
- C, partially developed ovaries of fertile
- worker; <i>sp</i>, rudimentary spermatheca. (From Cheshire.)</div>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>Each colony of bees in good condition at the opening of the season
-contains a laying queen and
-some 30,000 to 40,000 worker
-bees, or six to eight quarts by
-measurement. Besides this
-there should be four, five, or
-even more combs fairly stocked
-with developing brood, with a
-good supply of honey about it.
-Drones may also be present,
-even several hundred in number,
-although it is better to
-limit their production to selected
-hives, which in the main
-it is not difficult to accomplish.</p>
-
-<p>Under normal conditions the
-queen lays all of the eggs which
-are deposited in the hive, being
-capable of depositing under favorable
-conditions as many as
-4,000 in twenty-four hours. Ordinarily
-she mates but once,
-flying from the hive to meet
-the drone&mdash;the male bee&mdash;high
-in the air, when five to nine
-days old generally, although
-this time varies under different
-climatic conditions as well as
-with different races. Seminal
-fluid sufficient to impregnate
-the greater number of eggs she
-will deposit during the next two or three years (sometimes even four
-or five years) is stored at the time of mating in a sac&mdash;the spermatheca,
-opening into the oviduct or egg-passage (<a href="#fig5">fig. 5, <i>s</i></a>). The queen seems
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">- 20 -</span>
-to be able to control this opening so as to fertilize eggs or not as she
-wills at the time of depositing them. If fertilized they develop into
-workers or queens according to the character of the food given, the
-size and shape of the cell, etc.; if unfertilized, into drones. The queen's
-life may extend over a period of four or five years, but three years is
-quite as long as any queen ought to be kept, unless a particularly valuable
-one for breeding purposes and not easy to replace. Indeed, if
-full advantage be taken of her laying powers it will rarely be found
-profitable to retain a queen longer than two years.</p>
-
-<p>Upon the workers, which are undeveloped females, devolves all the
-labor of gathering honey, pollen, propolis, and bringing water, secreting
-wax, building combs, stopping up crevices in the hive, nursing the
-brood, and defending the hives. To enable them to do all this they
-are furnished with highly specialized organs. These will be more fully
-referred to in connection with the description of the products gathered
-and prepared by the workers.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig6" style="width: 379px;">
- <img src="images/fig6.png" width="379" height="216" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 6.</span>&mdash;A, Head of queen, magnified ten times, showing smaller compound eyes at sides, and three
-ocelli on vertex of head; <i>n</i>, jaw notch. B, head of drone, magnified ten times, showing larger
-compound eyes at sides, with three ocelli between; <i>n</i>, jaw notch. (From Cheshire.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The drones, aside from contributing somewhat to the general warmth
-of the hive necessary to the development of the brood, seem to have
-no other office but that connected with reproduction. In the wild state
-colonies of bees are widely separated, being located wherever the
-swarms chance to have found hollow trees or rock cavities, hence the
-production of many drones has been provided for, so young queens
-flying out to mate will not run too many risks from bird and insect
-enemies, storms, etc. Mating in the hive would result in too continuous
-in-and-in breeding, producing loss of vigor. As we find it arranged, the
-most vigorous are the most likely to reproduce their species.</p>
-
-<p>At the time of the queen's mating there are in the hive neither eggs
-nor young larv&aelig; from which to rear another queen; thus, should she be
-lost, no more fertilized eggs would be deposited, and the old workers
-gradually dying off without being replaced by young ones, the colony
-would become extinct in the course of a few months at most, or meet a
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">- 21 -</span>
-speedier fate through intruders, such as wax-moth larv&aelig;, robber bees,
-wasps, etc., which its weakness would prevent its repelling longer;
-or cold is very likely to finish such a decimated colony, especially as
-the bees, because queenless, are uneasy and do not cluster compactly.</p>
-
-<p>The loss of queens while flying out to mate is evidently one of the
-provisions in nature to prevent bees from too great multiplication, for
-were there no such checks they would soon become a pest in the land.
-On the other hand, the risk to the queen is not uselessly increased, for
-she mates but once during her life.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig7" style="width: 465px;">
- <img src="images/fig7.png" width="465" height="207" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 7.</span>&mdash;Modifications of the legs of different bees: A, <i>Apis</i>: <i>a</i>, wax pincer and outer view of hind
-leg; <i>b</i>, inner aspect of wax pincer and leg; <i>c</i>, compound hairs holding grains of pollen; <i>d</i>, anterior
-leg, showing antenna cleaner; <i>e</i>, spur on tibia of middle leg. B, <i>Melipona:</i> <i>f</i>, peculiar group of spines
-at apex of tibia of hind leg; <i>g</i>, inner aspect of wax pincer and first joint of tarsus. C, <i>Bombus</i>:
-<i>h</i>, wax pincer; <i>i</i>, inner view of same and first joint of tarsus&mdash;all enlarged. (From Insect Life.)</div>
-</div>
-
-
-<h3>BEE PRODUCTS AND ORGANS USED IN THEIR PREPARATION.</h3>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig8" style="width: 317px;">
- <img src="images/fig8.png" width="317" height="499" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 8.</span>&mdash;Head and tongue of Apis mellifera worker
- (magnified twelve times), <i>a</i>, Antenna, or feeler; <i>m</i>, mandibula, or
- outer jaw; <i>g</i>, gum flap, or epipharynx; <i>mxp</i>, maxillary palpus;
- <i>pg</i>, paraglossa; <i>mx</i>, maxilla, or inner jaw; <i>lp</i>, labial palpus,
- <i>l</i>, ligula, or tongue; <i>b</i>, bouton, or spoon of the same. (Reduced
- from Cheshire.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Pollen and honey form the food of honey bees and their developing
-brood. Both of these are plant products which are only modified somewhat
-by the manipulation to which they are subjected by the bees and
-are then stored in waxen cells if not wanted for immediate use. Pollen,
-the fertilizing dust of flowers, is carried home by the bees in small pellets
-held in basket-like depressions on each of the hind legs. The hairs
-covering the whole surface of the bee's body are more or less serviceable
-in enabling the bee to collect pollen, but those on the under side
-of the abdomen are most likely to get well dusted, and the rows of
-hairs, nine in number, known as pollen brushes, located on the inner
-surface of the first tarsal joint (<a href="#fig7">fig. 7, <i>b</i></a>), are then brought into use to
-brush out this pollen. When these brushes are filled with pollen the
-hind legs are crossed during flight and the pollen combed out by the
-spine-like hairs that fringe the posterior margin of the tibial joint&mdash;that
-above a in <a href="#fig7">fig. 7</a>. The outer surface of this joint is depressed, and this,
-with the rows of curved hairs on the anterior margin and the straighter
-ones just referred to forms a basket like cavity known as the corbiculum
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">- 22 -</span>
-or pollen basket, represented by the longest joints of the legs,
-A, B, and C, <a href="#fig7">fig. 7</a>. Into this the pollen falls, and with the middle
-pair of legs is tamped down for transportation to the hive. Having
-arrived there, the bee thrusts its hind legs into a cell located as near to
-the brood nest as may be, and loosening the pellets lets them fall into
-the bottom of the cell. The tibial spur (<a href="#fig7">fig. 7, <i>e</i></a>) on each middle leg is,
-as Professor Cheshire has pointed out, probably of use in prying the
-pellets out. The latter are simply dropped into cells and left for some
-other bee to pack down
-by kneading or pressing
-with its mandibles. Various
-colors&mdash;yellow,
-brown, red, slate, etc.,
-according to the kinds
-of flowers from which
-gathered&mdash;frequently
-show in layers in the
-same cell. Often when
-partly filled with pollen
-the cell is then filled up
-with honey and sealed
-more or less hermetically
-with wax. The bees
-store the pollen, for convenience
-in feeding,
-above and at the sides
-of the brood and as near
-to it as possible, the
-comb on each side of the
-brood nest being generally
-well stored with it.</p>
-
-
-<h4>NECTAR AND HONEY.</h4>
-
-<p>The liquid secreted in
-the nectaries of flowers
-is usually quite thin,
-containing, when just
-gathered, a large per
-centage of water. Bees
-suck or lap it up from
-such flowers as they can
-reach with their flexible, sucking tongue, 0.25 to 0.28 inch long.
-(<a href="#fig8">Fig. 8, <i>l</i>.</a>) This nectar is taken into the honey sac (<a href="#Plate_II">Plate II, <i>h.s.</i></a>) located in
-the abdomen, for transportation to the hive. It is possible that part of
-the water is eliminated by the gatherers before they reach the hive. A
-Russian bee keeper, M. Nassanoff, while dissecting a worker, discovered
-between the fifth and sixth abdominal segments a small canal, to which
-he attributed an excretory function, and Zoubareff, having noticed bees
-ejecting a watery substance while returning from the fields, suggested
-that this gland probably served to separate a portion of the water from
-the nectar, the liquid deposited in the cells appearing to contain less of it
-than that just secreted by the flowers.</p>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<table id="Plate_II" summary="Plate_II">
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl smaller">Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.</td>
- <td class="tdr smaller"><span class="smcap">Plate II.</span></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 376px;">
- <img src="images/plate_2.png" width="376" height="636" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="caption4nb"><span class="smcap">Digestive System of Bee</span> (magnified ten times).</p>
-
-<p>
-A, Horizontal section of body; <i>lp</i>, labial palpus; <i>mx</i>,, maxilla: <i>e</i>, eye; <i>dv, dv</i>, dorsal<br />
-vessel: <i>v</i>, ventricles of the same; No. 1. No. 2, No. 3, salivary gland systems, 1, 2, 3;<br />
-<i>&#339;</i>, &#339;sophagus; <i>pro.t</i>, prothorax; <i>mesa.t</i>, mesathorax; <i>meta.t</i>, metathorax; <i>g, g</i>,<br />
-ganglia of chief nerve chain; <i>n</i>, nerves; <i>hs</i>, honey sac; <i>p</i>, petaloid stopper of honey<br />
-sac or stomach mouth; <i>c.s</i>, chyle stomach: <i>bt</i>, biliary or Malpighian vessels: <i>si</i>,<br />
-small intestine; <i>l</i>, lamell&aelig; or gland plates of colon; <i>li</i>, large intestine.<br />
-</p>
- </td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">- 23 -</span></p>
-
-<p>However this maybe, evaporation
-takes place rapidly in the heat of the hive after the nectar or thin
-honey has been stored, as it is temporarily, in open cells. Besides being
-thin, the nectar has at first a raw, rank taste, generally the flavor and odor
-peculiar to the plant from which gathered, and these are frequently far
-from agreeable. To make from this raw product the healthful and delicious
-table luxury which honey constitutes&mdash;"fit food for the gods"&mdash;is
-another of the functions peculiar to the worker bee. The first step is
-the stationing of workers in lines near the hive entrances. These,
-by incessant buzzing of their wings, drive currents of air into and
-out of the hive and over the comb surfaces. If the hand be held before
-the entrance at such a time a strong current of warm air may
-be felt coming out. The loud buzzing heard at night during the
-summer time is due to the wings of workers engaged chiefly in ripening
-nectar. Instead of being at rest, as many suppose, the busy workers
-are caring for the last lot of gathered nectar and making room for
-further accessions. This may go on far into the night, or even all night,
-to a greater or less extent, the loudness and activity being proportionate
-to the amount and thinness of the liquid. Frequently the ripening
-honey is removed from one set of cells and placed in others. This may
-be to gain the use of certain combs for the queen, or possibly it is merely
-incidental to the manipulation the bees wish to give it. When, finally,
-the process has been completed, it is found that the water content has
-usually been reduced to 10 or 12 per cent, and that the disagreeable
-odors and flavors, probably due to volatile oils, have also been driven
-off in a great measure, if not wholly, by the heat of the hive, largely
-generated by the bees. During the manipulation an antiseptic&mdash;formic
-acid&mdash;secreted by glands in the head of the bee, and it is also possible
-other glandular secretions, have been added. The finished product is
-stored in waxen cells above and around the brood nest and the main
-cluster of bees, as far from the entrance as it can be and still be near
-to the brood and bees. The work of sealing with waxen caps then goes
-forward rapidly, the covering being more or less porous.</p>
-
-<p>Each kind of honey has its distinctive flavor and aroma, derived, as
-already indicated, mainly from the particular blossoms by which it was
-secreted, but modified and softened by the manipulation given it in the
-hives. When the secretion is abundant in a flower having a short or
-open corolla, hence one from which the bees find it easy to obtain the
-honey, they will confine their visits to that kind if the latter is present
-in sufficient numbers. Thus it is that linden, white clover, buckwheat,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">- 24 -</span>
-white sage, mesquite, sourwood, aster, tulip tree, mangrove, orange, and
-other kinds of honey may be harvested separately, and each be readily
-recognizable by its color, flavor, consistency, and aroma. When, however,
-no great honey yielder is present in large quantity and the source is
-miscellaneous, all manner of combinations of qualities may exist, introducing
-great and often agreeable variety. Thus the medicinal qualities
-and the food value of different kinds of honey differ as greatly as do
-their prices on the market.</p>
-
-
-<h4>PROPOLIS.</h4>
-
-<p>This substance, commonly known as "bee glue," is obtained by the
-bees from the buds and crevices of trees, and is carried to the hives in
-the corbicula or basket-like cavities on the outside of the tibial joints
-of the workers' hind legs, the same as they carry pollen. The workers
-with their mandibles scrape together and bite off the particles of propolis,
-and with the front and middle legs pass them back to the baskets,
-where the middle legs and feet are used to tamp them down. The
-pellets can be readily distinguished from those of pollen, the latter
-being dull and granular in appearance, while the freshly gathered
-propolis is compact and shiny. This resinous material, which becomes
-hard soon after it is gathered, is at first quite sticky, and the bee bringing
-it requires aid in unloading. Another worker takes hold of the
-mass with its jaws, and by united exertion they get it out of the pocket,
-though often by piecemeal and in long threads. It is not stored in cells,
-but is used at once to stop up crevices in the hives and to varnish the
-whole interior surface, as well as to glue movable portions fast, also in
-strengthening the combs at their attachments, and if the latter are
-designed exclusively for honey, and especially if not filled at once, the
-edges of their completed cells receive a thin coating of propolis, which
-adds considerably to their strength. The bees often make the flight
-hole smaller by filling a part of it with masses of propolis, sometimes
-mixed with old wax. Carniolans gather the least and Tunisians the
-most propolis of any of the different races. On this account the former
-are better suited than the latter to the production of fancy white
-comb honey.</p>
-
-
-<h4>BEE POISON AND THE STING.</h4>
-
-<p>The worker and the queen are supplied with another organ which is
-of great importance to them, namely, the sting; for without this the
-hard-earned stores of the hive would soon be a prey to all manner of
-marauders, and the queen would be deprived of an organ of occasional
-use to her in dispatching rivals, and of daily use to her during the
-working season in the deposition of eggs. The darts work independently
-and alternately, and are connected at the base with the poison
-sac, without whose powerful contents such a tiny weapon would be
-wholly ineffective. Poison glands pour an acid secretion&mdash;largely
-formic acid&mdash;into this sac, whence it is conveyed to the tip of the sting<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">- 25 -</span>
-along the groove or canal formed by the junction of the sheath and the
-darts. The sting being but an ovipositor modified also another
-purpose in addition to oviposition, in the perfect female (the queen) its
-main use is in placing the eggs in their proper position in the bottoms
-of the cells.</p>
-
-<p>Formic acid is known to have considerable antiseptic properties.
-Chemical tests show its presence in well-ripened honey, but not in
-freshly gathered nectar. The natural conclusion is that it has been
-added by the bees to assist in the preservation of the honey. In what
-manner it is supplied has frequently been questioned. Tests applied
-to the blood of the bee show its presence there, and the secretions of
-the head glands show still larger quantities. It is therefore reasonable
-to suppose that these glands, as well as the poison glands themselves
-secrete formic acid, and that the honey receives its portion from the
-former, the head glands, upon being disgorged from the honey-sac or
-during the manipulation to which it is subjected in the hive.</p>
-
-
-<h4>WATER.</h4>
-
-<p>During cold or cool weather much condensation of moisture takes
-place in wooden hives as these are usually arranged. The water, collecting
-in drops on the interior walls of the hive and on the cold, sealed
-honey, often trickles down over the cluster of bees, to their great
-injury. It has been claimed that when brood rearing begins this condensed
-moisture will be utilized in the preparation of brood food.
-Very possibly it may, yet its use is probably detrimental, since it is
-charged with waste products of the hive&mdash;those of respiration, etc. In
-its absence the water contained in the honey, if the latter has not granulated,
-seems to be sufficient. Later, however, when no condensation
-takes place in the hive and the greater number of developing larv&aelig;
-require considerable supplies of water in their food, special trips are
-made to brooks and pools for it, and dew is often gathered from leaves.</p>
-
-
-<h4>SILK.</h4>
-
-<p>The larval bee produces a small amount of silk from glands in its
-head. The pupal cell is partially lined with this. Later, as the bee
-develops, there being no further use for the glands, they become
-atrophied.</p>
-
-
-<h4>WAX.</h4>
-
-<p>The light colored pellets which are carried into the hive on the hind
-legs of the workers, and which have been described as pollen, are often
-mistaken for wax. The fact is, wax is not gathered in the form in
-which we see it, except in rare instances, when, bits of comb having
-been left about, small quantities will be loaded up and taken in as
-pellets on the legs. Ordinarily it comes into the hive in the shape of
-honey and is transformed by the workers within their own bodies into
-wax. This production is wholly confined to the workers, for although<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">- 26 -</span>
-the queen has wax plates 011 the underside of the abdomen and wax
-glands beneath them, yet both are less developed than in the workers
-and are never used. The wax plates of the worker overlying the
-secreting glands are well shown in <a href="#fig9">fig. 9</a>, those of the queen and of
-the related genera, <i>Bombus</i> and <i>Melipona</i>, being shown for comparison.
-During wax secretion, that is, when combs are being built or honey
-cells sealed over, a high temperature is maintained in the hive, and
-many workers may be seen to have small scales of wax protruding
-from between the segments of the abdomen on the underside. The
-molds or plates, eight in number, in which the scales appear are concealed
-by the overlapping of the abdominal segments, but when
-exposed to view (<a href="#fig9">fig. 9, <i>a</i></a>) are seen to be five-sided depressions lined
-with a transparent membrane. The wax glands themselves are beneath
-this membrane, and through it the wax comes in a liquid form. As the
-scales harden they are pushed out by the addition of wax beneath.
-The bees pluck them out with neat pincers (<a href="#fig7">fig. 7, <i>a</i> and <i>b</i></a>) formed by
-the articulation of the hind tibi&aelig; with the adjacent tarsal joints, pass
-them forward to the mandibles, and mold them into the shape of hexagonal
-cells, meanwhile warming and moistening them with the secretions
-of the head glands to render the wax more pliable.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig9" style="width: 428px;">
- <img src="images/fig9.png" width="428" height="245" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 9.</span>&mdash;Wax disks of social bees: <i>a</i>, Apis mellifera worker; <i>b</i>. A. mellifera queen; <i>c</i>, Melipona worker;
-<i>d</i>, Bombus worker&mdash;all enlarged. (From Insect Life.)</div>
-</div>
-
-
-<h4>COMBS.</h4>
-
-<p>Wax is fashioned by the workers into cells of various sizes and shapes,
-according to the use to be made of them. The most regular in shape
-and size are the cells designed for brood (<a href="#fig4">fig. 4</a>). These combs in which
-workers are bred show nearly 29 cells on a square inch of surface, the
-combs being seven-eighths inch thick and the cells generally quite
-regular hexagons in outline. Drone cells are larger, there being but 18
-of them to the square inch of surface, and the comb is 1&frac14; inches thick.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">- 27 -</span>
-The cells of combs designed only for honey are frequently more irregular
-in shape, generally curve upward somewhat, and are often deepened
-as the honey is stored in them, so that these combs sometimes
-reach a thickness of 2 or 3 inches.</p>
-
-<p>The cells in which queens are bred bear in size and shape some
-resemblance to a ground or pea nut. They are often irregular in form,
-being sometimes curved, or short and thick, according to the space
-below their point of attachment, which is most frequently the lower
-edge or the side edge of a comb, or sometimes a mere projection or
-angularity in the general surface of a comb. Queen cells open downward
-instead of being built horizontally like drone and worker cells
-(figs. <a href="#fig62">62</a> and <a href="#fig63">63</a>).</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig10" style="width: 464px;">
- <img src="images/fig10.png" width="464" height="242" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 10.</span>&mdash;Comb building&mdash;side of hive removed. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Into the material used in constructing brood combs bees often incorporate
-bits of wax and fiber-like gnawings of cocoons from old combs
-in which brood has been reared, and if given cappings or trimmings of
-combs they will work them all over and utilize most of the material.
-Also when the bees have abundant supplies of pollen much of this is
-incorporated into the material of brood combs, thus saving the costlier
-substance&mdash;wax. Such combs show at once by their brownish or straw
-color, even when first constructed, that they are not made of wax
-alone. It will readily be seen from the above that the quantity of
-honey consumed by the bees in producing a pound of comb must vary
-greatly, for if the comb is designed for surplus honey it will be made
-of newly secreted wax, while if for brood other material will, as just
-stated, replace a portion of the wax. The amount of honey coming in
-varies from day to day, and it is difficult to estimate how much is consumed
-in feeding and keeping warm the brood: moreover, a high temperature
-is required in the hive to facilitate the secretion and working
-of wax, necessitating, of course, extra food consumption when the outside<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">- 28 -</span>
-temperature is low. Accordingly estimates as to the amount of
-honey required to produce 1 pound of comb range from 5 pounds to 25
-pounds. More accurate experiments are needed in this direction before
-anything positive can be stated. Until then 18 to 20 pounds might be
-looked upon as nearest the correct figure for white surplus combs, and
-half as much for dull straw-colored or brownish combs built for brood
-rearing.</p>
-
-
-<h3>DEVELOPMENT OF BROOD.</h3>
-
-<p>Ordinarily the winter cluster in a hive of bees occupies the more central
-combs, four or five in number. Near the middle of this cluster the
-queen deposits the first eggs of the season (which are fertilized eggs) in
-the small-sized or worker cells. Under favorable circumstances, that
-is, in a strong colony amply protected against inclement weather, this
-deposition usually occurs in January, though in a very mild climate some
-brood is generally present during every month of the year, and the cessation
-of egg-laying is very short. The eggs hatch on the third day after
-deposition into minute white larv&aelig;, to which the workers supply food
-in abundance. The composition of this food has been the subject of
-much attention and more theorizing. It may be considered as pretty
-certain that during the first three days of the life of the larva its food
-is a secretion from glands located in the heads of the adult workers&mdash;a
-sort of bee milk, to which, after the third day, honey is added
-in the case of the worker larv&aelig;, and honey and pollen in the case of
-drone larva?. As this weaning proceeds both worker and drone larv&aelig;
-receive pollen, and in constantly increasing proportions, in place of the
-secretion. But this rich albuminous substance is continued to the
-queen larv&aelig; throughout their whole period of feeding; moreover, the
-quantity of this food supplied to each queen larva is apparently super-abundant,
-for after it ceases to feed quite a mass of the food somewhat
-dried out will be found in the bottom of the cell from which a well-developed
-queen has issued. After assuming the pupa form the young
-queen is attached to this food by means of the tip of the abdomen, and
-it very likely continues for some time to receive nourishment from the
-mass.</p>
-
-<p>The following table shows approximately the time occupied in the
-development of worker, drone, and queen:</p>
-
-<table summary="data">
-<tr>
- <td class="bdt bdl bdb"></td>
- <td class="bdt bdl bdb tdc">Egg.</td>
- <td class="bdt bdl bdb tdc">Larva.</td>
- <td class="bdt bdl bdb tdc">Pupa.</td>
- <td class="bdt bdr bdl bdb tdc">From deposition<br />of egg to imago.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="bdl"></td>
- <td class="bdl tdc"><i>Days.</i></td>
- <td class="bdl tdc"><i>Days.</i></td>
- <td class="bdl tdc"><i>Days.</i></td>
- <td class="bdl bdr tdc"><i>Days.</i></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="bdl">Queen</td>
- <td class="bdl tdc">3</td>
- <td class="bdl tdc">5&frac12;</td>
- <td class="bdl tdc">7</td>
- <td class="bdl bdr tdc">15&frac12;</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="bdl">Worker</td>
- <td class="bdl tdc">3</td>
- <td class="bdl tdc">5</td>
- <td class="bdl tdc">13</td>
- <td class="bdl bdr tdc">21</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="bdb bdl">Drone</td>
- <td class="bdb bdl tdc">3</td>
- <td class="bdb bdl tdc">6</td>
- <td class="bdb bdl tdc">15</td>
- <td class="bdb bdr bdl tdc">24</td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-<p>The original circles of brood are gradually increased by the deposition
-of eggs in the cells next outside those already occupied, and circles are
-soon begun in the adjoining combs. In this way the space occupied by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">- 29 -</span>
-the developing bees is gradually increased, while preserving the general
-spherical shape of the brood nest thus formed, which, however, the
-shape of the hive often modifies somewhat. As already mentioned, each
-circle of brood has rows of pollen cells about it, chiefly above and at the
-sides, and the combs on either side contiguous to the brood are usually
-well packed with pollen. Outside of the pollen most of the honey on
-hand is stored. Thus (<a href="#fig11">fig. 11</a>) a cross section made in any direction
-through the middle of a hive in normal condition at the opening of the
-active season should show this relative arrangement of brood, pollen,
-and honey, which economizes most the heat of the hive and the labors of
-the nurse bees, favoring in this way the rapid increase of the population.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig11" style="width: 432px;">
- <img src="images/fig11.png" width="432" height="283" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 11.</span>&mdash;Cross section of brood apartment: <i>s, s</i>, sides of hive; <i>t, t</i>, top-bars of frames;
-<i>h, p, l, sb</i>, combs containing (<i>h</i>) honey, (<i>p</i>) pollen, (<i>l</i>) larv&aelig; and eggs, and (<i>sb</i>) sealed brood. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-
-<h4>THE WORKER.</h4>
-
-<p>The worker larv&aelig; are fed five days, and then the cell is given by the
-adult bees a covering which is quite porous by reason of numerous
-pollen grains incorporated into its mass, this openness of texture being
-necessary to give the developing bee air to breathe. The larva strength
-ens this capping by a loose webwork of silk within, extending down the
-side but slightly and attached at its edges to the last skin cast by the
-molting larva. This skin, extremely delicate and pressed closely against
-the inside of the cell, forms the lining of its sides and bottom. In
-about twelve days after sealing, that is, twenty-one days from the time
-the egg was deposited, the imago, or perfect bee, bites its way through
-the brown covering.</p>
-
-<p>In the course of a couple of days it takes up the work of a nurse, and
-in a week to ten days may appear at the entrance on pleasant days,
-taking, however, but short flights for exercise, as ordinary field work is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">- 30 -</span>
-not undertaken until it has passed about two weeks in the care of
-brood. The worker then takes up also wax secretion, if honey is to be
-capped over or combs built, although old bees can and do to a certain
-extent engage in wax production.</p>
-
-
-<h4>THE DRONE.</h4>
-
-<p>Eggs left unfertilized produce drones and require twenty-four days
-from the time they are deposited until the perfect insect appears. They
-are normally deposited in the larger-sized horizontal cells, and when
-the latter are sealed, the capping is more convex as well as lighter-colored
-than that of worker brood, which is brown and nearly flat.</p>
-
-<p>The fact that drones develop from unfertilized eggs is to be noted as
-having an important practical bearing in connection with the introduction
-of new strains of a given race or of new races of bees into an
-apiary. From a single choice home-bred or imported mother, young
-queens of undoubted purity of blood may be reared for all of the colonies
-of the apiary, and since the mating of these young queens does
-not affect their drone progeny, thereafter only drones of the desired
-strain or race and pure in blood will be produced, rendering, therefore,
-the pure mating of future rearings fairly certain if other bees are not
-numerous within a mile or two. Eventually also all of the colonies
-will be changed to the new race and without admixture of impure
-blood, provided always that the young queens be reared from mothers
-of pure blood mated to drones of equal purity.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">- 31 -</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.<br />
-
-<span class="smaller">QUIETING AND MANIPULATING BEES.</span></h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>The demeanor of bees toward an individual depends largely upon his
-bearing and treatment of them. Langstroth, in his excellent treatise,
-Langstroth on the Honey Bee (p. 193, revised edition), says:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>Let all your motions about your hives be gentle and slow; never crush or injure
-the bees; acquaint yourself fully with the principles of management, and you will
-find you have little more reason to dread the sting of a bee than the horns of a
-favorite cow or the heels of your faithful horse.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig12" style="width: 280px;">
- <img src="images/fig12.png" width="280" height="370" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 12.</span> Use of veil and bee smoker. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Most bee manipulators, however, grow somewhat indifferent to stings,
-since in time they become
-so inoculated with the poison
-of the bee that the pain
-of the sting is less severe
-and the swelling slight.
-<i>But to avoid the stings is,
-with some of the races more
-recently introduced into this
-country, simply a question
-of care in manipulation and
-a free use of smoke.</i> It is
-not meant that the bees
-should be stupefied with
-smoke, but merely alarmed
-and subjugated, and whenever
-they show any disposition
-to act on the offensive
-recourse is to be had
-to smoke. It is not necessary
-that the smoke should
-be from a particular source,
-but that from certain substances,
-as tobacco, subjugates
-them more quickly,
-while burning puffball stupefies them for the time. There are some
-objections to these substances which do not apply to wood, either partially
-decayed or sound, and as the latter when in a good smoker holds
-fire best and is very effective, it is advisable to keep a good supply at
-hand. Seasoned hickory or hard maple are best, though beech, soft<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">- 32 -</span>
-maple, etc., are good. The most improved bellows smokers, when supplied
-with such fuel sawed 5 or C inches long and split into bits a half
-inch or less in size, will burn all day and be ready at any time to give
-a good volume of blue smoke, by which bees of most of the races now
-cultivated in this country are subdued at once.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig13" style="width: 277px;">
- <img src="images/fig13.png" width="277" height="369" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 13.</span>&mdash;Manipulation&mdash;removing comb from hive. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>With Italian or black bees a puff or two of smoke should be given
-at the hive entrance and the cover and honey board, or quilt, removed
-slowly and carefully, smoke being driven in as soon as the least opening
-is made and the volume increased enough to keep down all bees as fast
-as the covering is removed. The smoker may then be placed on the windward
-side of the hive to
-allow the fumes to pass
-over the top and toward
-the operator. The frames
-may then be gently pried
-loose and lifted out carefully,
-without crushing a
-bee if it can be avoided.
-Crushing bees fills the air
-with the odor of poison,
-which irritates the bees.
-So also when one bee is
-provoked to sting others
-follow because of the odor
-of poison.</p>
-
-<p>Too much smoke will
-often render certain manipulations difficult; for
-example, when queens are
-to be sought out, or nuclei
-or artificial swarms made,
-volumes of smoke blown
-in between the combs will
-drive the bees from them
-so that they will cluster in clumps on the bottoms of the frames or in
-the corners of the hives. A little observation and judgment will enable
-one to know when the bees need smoke and how much of it to prevent
-any outbreak on their part, which it is always best to forestall rather
-than be obliged to quell after it is fully under way.</p>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig14" style="width: 210px;">
- <img src="images/fig14.png" width="210" height="212" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 14.</span>&mdash;Manipulation&mdash;tilting to bring
-reverse side of comb in view. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The frame hive as now made&mdash;with metal rabbets and arrangements
-for surplus honey, and quilts instead of honey boards&mdash;reduces propolization
-to a minimum and renders the danger of irritating the bees by
-jarring when manipulating much less. As a prerequisite to rapid and
-safe manipulation <i>perfectly straight combs are necessary</i>.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">- 33 -</span></p>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig15" style="width: 172px;">
- <img src="images/fig15.png" width="172" height="217" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 15.</span>&mdash;Manipulation&mdash;reverse side
-of comb brought to view. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig16" style="width: 207px;">
- <img src="images/fig16.png" width="207" height="193" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 16.</span>&mdash;Manipulation&mdash;examining
-verse side of comb. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>With the common or black bees it is never safe to do without the veil
-as a protection to the face, and with these bees it will also be very difficult
-to avoid stings on the hands unless considerable smoke has been
-driven into the entrance beforehand and
-time has been given the bees to get well
-filled with honey before the hive is
-opened; even then frequent recourse to
-smoke will generally be necessary.
-Blacks are by far the most troublesome
-of all races about flying from their hive
-entrances to sting in an unprovoked
-manner. Next to these are the crosses
-containing the blood of the blacks. Italians
-have much less of this disposition,
-and Carniolans and Cyprians rarely, then
-latter almost never, fly from their hive
-entrances to attack unless their hives
-have been disturbed. <i>Pure</i> Cyprians
-can generally be handled without the use of the bee veil by skillful bee
-manipulators who understand the qualities of
-the race. Much of the work among pure Italians
-can be done without a veil after one has
-gained experience in manipulation. During
-four years' residence in Carniola the writer,
-manipulating annually several hundred colonies
-of bees, never had occasion to employ a
-bee veil. If no bees but gray Carniolans of
-pure blood are in the apiary and some smoke
-is used a veil will never be necessary. They
-maybe handled in all kinds of weather, early
-and late, even during the night, yet with but
-a small part of the risk which attends the
-manipulation of other races. Nor will it be
-necessary to delude them with smoke from
-time to time, as one is obliged to do with blacks. To dispense entirely
-with the bee veil is a more important consideration,
-especially to the professional
-bee-master, than is at first apparent to
-the inexperienced. Its use injures the
-eyesight seriously, especially where one
-is obliged to strain his eyes for hours to
-see eggs, larv&aelig;, etc., in the cells, to hunt
-out queens and queen cells, and adjust
-frames. Besides this, the hindrance to
-rapid work which the veil causes, as
-well as the great discomfort in wearing
-it for hours during hot weather, are
-considerations worth weighing.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">- 34 -</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig17" style="width: 318px;">
- <img src="images/fig17.png" width="318" height="264" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 17.</span>&mdash;Quinby closed-end frames. (From A B C of Bee Culture.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>To recapitulate: To secure easy, rapid, and safe manipulation accurately
-made hives, with the frames, if hanging, arranged to rest on
-folded metal rabbets, and the combs perfectly straight, are essential.
-It is equally important also that some one of the gentler races be kept
-Furthermore, a good bee smoker fed with dry fuel is necessary, while
-the bee escape to clear supers without manipulation of combs is a great
-help. Quilts, queen excluders, and bee escapes reduce the amount of
-manipulation required, and at the same time facilitate what is absolutely
-necessary.</p>
-
-<p>In general, the best time to manipulate hives is when most of the
-bees are busy in the fields. The young bees left at home are most easily
-controlled and the old ones returning are generally laden.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">- 35 -</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.<br />
-
-<span class="smaller">ESTABLISHING AN APIARY: TIME&mdash;SELECTING HIVES OF BEES&mdash;MOVING
-BEES&mdash;SELECTION OF SITE.</span></h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>Spring is the best season to establish an apiary, especially for a person
-unacquainted with the practical care of bees. Colonies in good
-condition procured then are more easily kept in order by the novice than
-if purchased in the fall. Mistakes in management may possibly be remedied
-before the season closes, and by the time it is necessary to prepare
-for the winter the learner will have gained a certain amount of
-practical knowledge of the nature and requirements of the bees. If
-the start be made late in the season mistakes, if they occur, may result
-fatally before the proper remedy can be applied.</p>
-
-<p>The beginner had better obtain his start by purchasing one or two
-colonies of pure Italian or Carniolan bees in accurately made frame
-hives and in first-class condition. These he should get from some bee-master
-of repute near his own place, if possible, in order to avoid
-expressage and possible damage through long confinement or numerous
-transfers. The cost per colony may be $6 to $8; yet bees at this price
-will generally be found much cheaper in the end, for, though common
-bees in box hives may frequently be obtained for half or even less than
-half as much, the cost, when finally transferred into frame hives, fitted
-up with straight combs, and the common queens replaced by Italians
-or Carniolans, will not be less. The possession of a colony already in
-prime working order gives the novice a standard with which to compare
-all others and often enables him to avoid costly experiments.
-Another plan, also commendable, is to agree with some neighboring
-bee keeper to deliver as many first swarms on the day they issue as are
-wanted. These will give the right start if placed as soon as received
-in hives with foundation starters and the frames properly spaced&mdash;1&#8540;
-inches from center to center, it being understood that the swarms are
-early and prime ones, with vigorous queens. Only those issuing from
-colonies that have swarmed the year before or from such as were themselves
-second swarms of the previous year should be accepted. Swarms
-from these will have queens not over one year old. It is better to have
-queens of the current year's raising, but these can only be obtained by
-taking the second or third swarms from a given hive, which come later
-and are smaller, or by substituting young queens for those which come
-with the swarms.</p>
-
-
-<h3>SELECTION OF STOCKS.</h3>
-
-<p>The relative Strength of different stocks may be determined by
-watching the flight of the bees. The playing of the young bees in
-front of the hive is apt to deceive one. This lasts but twenty minutes
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">- 36 -</span>
-or so, but a weak stock compared then with a strong one whose young
-bees are not flying might be regarded as very populous. The young bees
-sporting in front of the hive may be known by their light, fuzzy appearance,
-and by the fact that as they take wing to leave the hive they turn
-their heads toward the entrance and sail about it in semicircles, frequently
-alighting on the flight board and taking wing again. They are
-thus marking the location of the hive so as to be able to return to it,
-for an attempt to enter another hive might result fatally to them. They
-finally fly away in constantly widening circles. Field workers used to
-the location fly in a direct line away from the hive. When the young
-bees return they do not alight at once as do the field workers laden
-with honey, but generally hover about the entrance until certain they
-have reached the right hive. Having noted by their flight which stocks
-seem to have the most bees, a closer examination can be made by blowing
-a little smoke of any sort into the entrances and tipping the hives
-back, if they stand on loose bottom boards. When not so constructed
-the examination must, of course, be made by removing the top covering,
-or if the combs are built in frames, some of these.</p>
-
-<p>In addition to the strength of the colony, the number of combs containing
-brood, straightness, kind and age of combs, amount of honey
-on hand, the cleanliness and healthfulness of the colony are points
-upon which full information is desirable. In April a good colony
-located in a central latitude ought to have brood in five or six combs;
-yet as ordinarily wintered it will be difficult to find colonies having
-at this time more than three or four combs containing brood. The
-combs should be straight, so that if in an old-fashioned box hive they
-can be cut out and fitted without great waste into frames, and if the
-hive is a frame one it is absolutely necessary to have combs straight
-and built wholly within the frames in order that the latter may be readily
-removed and returned to the hive. The less drone comb the better.
-There will always be enough, an area half the size of a man's hand
-being quite sufficient for each hive. The larger size of the drone cells
-and greater thickness of the combs (1&frac14; inches) will make it readily recognizable.
-If over one-eighth of the surface is drone comb the colony
-should be rejected. If the combs are so old as to be nearly black and
-to show cell walls much thickened they are very objectionable. There
-should be several pounds of sealed honey in each hive in early spring.
-Other things being equal, those stocks which come through the winter
-with 20 pounds or so of sealed honey in the combs will develop much
-faster than those having just enough to last them until they gather
-fresh honey rapidly enough to supply their daily needs. The presence
-of an abundance gives the bees courage. They do not fear to draw upon
-their stores to supply the young that are fast developing. The combs
-filled with honey part with their heat only slowly when the outside temperature
-falls, and there is thus less danger of a check in the development
-of the brood through too low temperature in the hive.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">- 37 -</span></p>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig18" style="width: 154px;">
- <img src="images/fig18.png" width="154" height="206" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 18.</span>&mdash;Box hive prepared for transportation. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>If the surfaces of the combs, the frames, or the inner walls of the hive
-are spotted with a brown, crumbly looking substance it is an evidence
-that the bees have bad diarrhea during the winter or spring, and if they
-have been badly affected not only will the combs and the whole interior
-of the hive be soiled, the former perhaps
-so as to be rendered almost worthless, but
-the bees will lack vitality, and will soon
-dwindle in numbers, not being able to survive
-the first arduous labors of the opening
-of the season. It is not always easy
-to determine whether a stock in a box hive
-is affected with foul brood or not, for the
-odor of decaying brood is not of itself
-sufficient to warrant such a conclusion,
-although it is well to reject any hive having
-any putrid odor about it. The natural
-odor of the hive, produced as it is largely
-by honey, wax, pollen, and propolis, is not
-unpleasant to most people, so that the
-presence of any disagreeable odor should arouse suspicion. If larv&aelig;
-that have turned black are seen in the cells, and the capping of the
-sealed brood is sunken and in some instances perforated, showing
-brown and ropy contents in the bottoms of the cells, and the putrid
-odor is present, the existence of foul brood (<i>Bacillus alvei</i> Cheshire) is
-pretty certain. This is a scourge much to be dreaded. Not only
-should no hives or colonies be purchased from the same apiary, but
-none in the vicinity of an
-apiary so affected.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig19" style="width: 252px;">
- <img src="images/fig19.png" width="252" height="218" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 19.</span>&mdash;Frame hive prepared for transportation. (Orig.)</div>
-</div>
-
-
-<h3>MOVING BEES.</h3>
-
-<p>In moving bees the box
-hives should be turned bottom upward, the bees driven
-back by blowing a little
-smoke on them, and a few
-loose rolls of rags laid across
-the lower edges of the combs
-in such a manner that a
-piece of sheeting, sacking,
-or preferably cheese cloth or
-other open material may be
-tied over the whole lower end and drawn tightly, so as to press
-the rolls against the combs and hold them in place. It is even
-well to tack strips of lath outside of the covering, so placed that
-they will cross the rolls of rags and press the latter more firmly against
-the lower edges of the combs. Strips may also be tacked around the
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">- 38 -</span>
-lower edges of the hive to hold the cloth in place, or it maybe fastened
-by winding with strong cord. The bees should be thus prepared as
-late in the day as possible, care being taken that none escape, and at
-dusk stood bottom upward in a spring conveyance or on straw or hay
-several inches deep in the box of a wagon, with straw packed between
-and around the hives. It is advisable to drive slowly, avoiding ruts as
-much as possible. By turning the hives bottom upward the weight of
-the combs rests on their points of attachment, and since in such hives
-the combs are not always attached well down the sides danger of breakage
-is lessened, especially when the rolls of cloth are pressed against
-the edges of the combs. If the bees are in frame hives, the frames of
-which have not been disturbed recently, it is likely that, with care in
-driving, the combs will not get displaced. If necessary to use a sheet
-or cloth to give ventilation, it should be tied over the top and the hive
-placed in the wagon in the same position it occupied on the stand, lest
-the combs, not being attached all the way down, should fall to one side
-or the other. Except during quite warm weather and for long trips
-it may not be necessary to adopt all the precautions here indicated,
-although in case bees are to be transported on long journeys by rail or
-water far more careful preparation is even necessary.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig20" style="width: 464px;">
- <img src="images/fig20.png" width="464" height="275" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 20.</span>&mdash;An apiary in Florida. (Reproduced from photograph.)</div>
-</div>
-
-
-<h3>SELECTION OF SITE.</h3>
-
-<p>The apiary should be located where no surface water will collect during
-heavy storms, yet the ground should not be very uneven, but rather
-a gentle slope. In the colder portions of the United States a south-eastern
-exposure is decidedly preferable, though in the South the slope
-of the site is less important to the welfare of the bees; a direct southern
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">- 39 -</span>
-or south western exposure, however, will be found extremely uncomfortable
-at times both for the operator and for his bees. A windbreak,
-such as a board fence, a hedge, or a row of evergreens on the north and
-west, is advisable as a protection against sharp winds in winter and
-early spring, which keep many bees from reaching their hives even when
-near the entrances. Some shade is desirable, yet such density as to
-produce dampness is extremely detrimental. In moist elevated regions,
-which are of course cool, no shade will be needed, except temporarily
-for newly hived swarms. Tall trees are objectionable in or near the
-apiary, because swarms are likely to cluster so high as to render their
-capture difficult and dangerous. Some of the self-hivers or nous warming
-devices now offered for sale may with improvement yet accomplish
-the end in view, but heretofore clipping one wing of each laying queen
-and using all precautions to prevent after-swarming, making artificial
-swarms, selection in breeding, or any other means known to limit
-swarming, have not sufficed to prevent the occasional issuance of a
-swarm with a queen having wings. Therefore it is advisable to have
-the apiary located under or near low trees, where the hives can be
-readily seen from the house. Carniolan, Italian, and Cyprian bees give
-less trouble to passers-by or to live stock than do the ordinary brown
-or German bees, or hybrids of these races, yet whatever race be kept,
-it is best to have the apiary as secluded as the necessary or desirable
-conditions will permit.</p>
-
-<p>The frontispiece and figures 20, 21, and 75, taken from photographs
-of apiaries located in different parts of the country, give a fair idea of
-sites actually occupied and the arrangement of hive-.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig21" style="width: 467px;">
- <img src="images/fig21.png" width="467" height="304" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 21.</span>&mdash;An apiary in California. (Reproduced from photograph.)</div>
-</div>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">- 40 -</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.<br />
-
-<span class="smaller">HIVES AND IMPLEMENTS.</span></h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>The safest and best rule in making or selecting hives and implements
-for the apiary is, <i>have them simple and accurate in construction</i>. A plain
-box with frames and as few other loose parts as possible will yield in
-the hands of a skillful bee-master far better results than the most elaborately
-constructed bee palace manipulated by one who does not understand
-the nature and requirements of bees; in fact, the most experienced
-generally prefer the former. The important point to decide in connection
-with any proposed modification or adjunct of the hive is whether
-its adoption will more than compensate for the resultant loss of simplicity.
-While zealously endeavoring to preserve simplicity of construction,
-however, complete adaptability to the purpose designed must be
-kept in view, and should not be sacrificed because of a slight added
-expense. The bee keeper needs but few implements. With even a
-limited number of hives, a smoker, a wax extractor, and a few queen-introducing
-cages are the most necessary, and one or two bee veils had
-better be added to the equipment, the total cost of which need not exceed
-$5 to $6. If the intention be to produce comb honey, and but a few hives
-are kept, then sections folded and with starters in place had better be
-purchased, but with ten or more hives and time during the winter season
-to prepare sections for the harvest, a section folder and a foundation
-fastener, costing together about $3, may be profitably added to the outfit.
-If only extracted honey is wanted a honey extractor with one or two
-uncapping knives should be purchased instead of the section folder and
-foundation fastener, the cost of the outfit being in this case some $15 to
-$18. Fifty or even seventy-five hives may be managed conveniently
-and economically with no greater investment in implements than that
-indicated above, and if both comb and extracted honey are wanted the
-cost of the outfit, it can readily be seen, need not exceed $20.</p>
-
-
-<h3>HIVES.</h3>
-
-<p>In regard to the particular style or form of hive to be used to insure
-the best results, it should be stated that while an intelligent apiarist
-whose experience has been considerable may be successful with almost
-any hive, even with poor ones, there can be no doubt that a hive not
-only adapted to the nature of the bees but also to the climate of the
-bee keeper's particular locality, and at the same time permitting the
-rapid performance of all operations necessary in securing surplus
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">- 41 -</span>
-honey, will very materially affect the net profit of an apiary. This
-being the case, the original cost of a hive, whether a dollar or two more
-or less, is of small importance compared with the desirability of securing
-convenience and simplicity in its management and of promoting
-the welfare of the bees in winter and summer. Frame hives managed
-with intelligence and skill are essential to the greatest success. Inaccurately
-made frame hives, neglected, as is too
-frequently the case, so that the combs are built
-irregularly between or across the frames, are not
-one whit better than box hives. Even an accurately
-built frame hive, if no attention is given to
-the spacing of the frames when combs are being
-built, will soon present no advantages over a box
-hive of the same dimensions and having the same
-space for supering above the brood apartment.</p>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig22" style="width: 134px;">
- <img src="images/fig22.png" width="134" height="137" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 22.</span>&mdash;Ancient Greek
-movable comb hive.
-(After <i>La Maison rustique</i>,
-published in 1742.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The frame and hive most in use in this country
-is the invention of Rev. L. L. Langstroth, and this
-hive, with slight modifications, has been generally
-adopted in England and her colonies. It is also becoming known and
-appreciated on the continent of Europe. The patent on the frame
-the essential feature&mdash;expired many years ago, so that anyone who may
-wish to do so is now free to employ the invention. It is still used by
-many in the same form in which it was brought out in 1852. Others
-have changed the dimensions of the frames and given them different
-names, while retaining the
-special feature of the inventor's
-principle, namely, the
-loose-fitting frame suspended
-by the projecting ends
-of its top bar on a continuous
-rabbet. The outside
-dimensions of the Langstroth
-frame most in use
-are 17&#8541; inches long by 9&#8539;
-inches deep (<a href="#fig24">fig. 24</a>). Mr.
-M. Quinby, one of the most
-practical and successful
-bee-masters of our century,
-preferred frames 12 inches
-deep by 18 inches Long, and
-these are still used by
-many large honey raisers. Other sizes are also used somewhat.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig23" style="width: 286px;">
- <img src="images/fig23.png" width="286" height="242" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 23.</span>&mdash;Dadant-Quinby form of Langstroth hive, with cap
-and gable roof. (Redrawn from Langstroth on the Honey
-Bee.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig24" style="width: 282px;">
- <img src="images/fig24.png" width="282" height="150" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 24.</span>&mdash;Langstroth frame; size, 17&#8541; in. by 9&#8539; in. outside;
-<i>pn</i>, projecting nail. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The bars composing frames are usually made seven-eighths inch wide,
-although some prefer to have the top bar 1 inch or even 1&#8539; inches wide,
-and the bottom bar is made by some as narrow as live-eighths inch or
-even three-eighths inch square. The narrower bottom bar, at least
-down to a width of five eighths inch, renders the removal of the frames
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">- 42 -</span>
-less difficult, and bees are brushed off a little more easily; but when
-combs cut from box hives are to be fitted into the frames it is not quite
-so easy to hold the pieces in the center of the frame by means of transferring
-sticks and get the bees to fasten them securely at the bottom as
-it is with full seven-eighths-inch bottom bars. Top bars
-have been made by some
-hive manufacturers from
-one-fourth-inch to three-eighths-inch strips,
-strengthened somewhat by
-a very thin strip placed
-edgewise on the underside
-as a comb guide; but such
-bars are much too light and
-will sag when filled with
-honey or with brood and honey, and when section holders or other
-receptacles for surplus honey or sets of combs are placed above them
-more than a bee space exists between the upper and lower sets of frames
-or between the section holder and the frames below, and the bees will
-fill in with bits of comb between these, making it difficult to remove the
-top story or any of the combs from it; indeed, an attempt under such
-circumstances to remove combs from the top story generally results
-in tearing the frames apart and breaking the combs, and if honey leaks
-out robbing may be induced at some times of the year, all because of an
-error in construction.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig25" style="width: 400px;">
- <img src="images/fig25.png" width="400" height="237" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 25.</span>&mdash;Form in which to nail frames: <i>b</i>, button; <i>db</i>, double button. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>To avoid this the top bar should never be less
-than five-eighths inch to three-fourths inch thick, while for long top
-bars seven-eighths-inch or 1-inch strips are preferable. The side and
-bottom bars may be made of one-fourth-inch strips. A corner is taken
-from the end of the top bar by a cross cut made at exactly right angles
-on the underside of the top bar, reaching to within one-fourth inch of
-the top of the bar, and another cut from the end so as to meet the first-mentioned<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">- 43 -</span>
-one. Each side bar can then be nailed by one nail driven
-from above through the top bar, and two driven through the side bar
-itself into the end of the top
-bar. The bottom bar can then
-be nailed on, or, better still,
-cut short enough to permit it
-to be inserted between the
-side bars, the nails holding it
-to be driven through the latter.
-Nailing frames loosely
-or without getting them exactly
-in true brings with it
-great disadvantages. If only
-slightly out of shape they may
-swing together at the bottom
-or touch the sides of the hive,
-and in either case will be
-glued fast by the bees; also in
-the first instance the combs,
-which are always built perpendicularly,
-will not be wholly within the frames. To avoid these
-troubles it is essential, first, that the parts for the frames be cut very
-accurately; second, that the frame be in exact shape at the time of
-nailing; and third, that the nails be driven in quite firmly; long, slender,
-flat-headed wire nails being necessary to secure proper stiffness of
-the frame. Nails 1&frac12; to 1&frac34; inches long made of No. 16 or No, 17 wire, or
-4d. fine wire nails are the right size. Nailing in a form, such as is shown
-by <a href="#fig25">fig. 25</a>, is therefore advisable.
-Greater ease in withdrawing the
-frames from the hive is secured by
-making the bottom of the frame
-one-fourth inch less in width than
-the upper part. A round-headed
-nail or a curved wire staple driven
-through the side bar at each lower
-corner into the end of the bottom
-bar and left projecting one fourth
-inch will also facilitate the removal
-of frames and their insertion in
-the hive without the crushing of
-bees, and hence allow more rapid manipulation. (Fig. 24, <i>pn</i>.)</p>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig26" style="width: 275px;">
- <img src="images/fig26.png" width="275" height="273" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 26.</span>&mdash;Lock-joint chaff hive. (From Gleanings in Bee
-Culture.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig27" style="width: 233px;">
- <img src="images/fig27.png" width="233" height="169" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 27.</span>&mdash;Manner of nailing hives. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The hive to hold the frames should be the plainest kind of a box, the
-frames resting on rabbets made in the upper edges. Constructing it
-with lock joints, as shown in <a href="#fig26">fig. 26</a>, or by halving together the ends
-of the boards, as in <a href="#fig27">fig. 27</a>, and, in either case, nailing in both directions
-makes a strong hive body. The latter may be single-walled for
-mild climates or where cellar wintering is practiced: but for severe
-regions it is advisable to have permanent double walls with the inter-spaces<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">- 44 -</span>
-filled with chaff, ground cork, or similar material, or else outer
-cases should be provided giving space between the latter and the hive
-proper for dry packing. As the bees always try to glue the frames
-fast by means of propolis, it is better to make them rest on strips of tin,
-galvanized iron, or band iron. The rabbet should therefore be made
-eleven-sixteenths inch deep, and the strip of iron or other metal frame-rest
-nailed on so that its edge will project upward five-sixteenths inch
-from the bottom of the rabbet. Folded strips of tin as made by manufacturers
-of apiarian implements are preferable to single strips nailed
-on, since they facilitate the sliding of frames and do not cut the top bars
-where the latter rest upon them (<a href="#fig28">fig. 28</a>). The projecting ends of
-the top bars being one-fourth inch thick, the bars themselves come
-within one-eighth inch of the upper edge of the hive. It is essential
-that the distance between the ends of the frames and the hive should
-not exceed three-eighths inch, lest in time of plenty the bees should
-build comb there; nor can less than one-fourth inch space be allowed,
-for if the bees can not readily pass around the ends of frames of the
-Langstroth type they will glue the frames to the side walls of the hive,
-making it very difficult, if not
-impossible, to remove them
-without breakage. If, as suggested,
-the frames are made
-one-fourth inch shorter at the
-bottom than at the top, that
-is, 17&#8540; inches at bottom and
-17&#8541; inches at top, the hive
-should then be 18&#8539; inches inside
-from front to rear, the
-frames running in this direction.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig28" style="width: 236px;">
- <img src="images/fig28.png" width="236" height="125" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 28.</span>&mdash;Section of improved tin frame-rest:
-<i>A</i>, folded edge on which frame rests; <i>B</i> and <i>D</i>, nails.
-(From Gleanings.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>If the frames are accurately made
-there will then be one fourth inch space at each end of the frame just
-below the top bar and three-eighths inch at each end of the bottom
-bar. Between the frames and the bottom board, on which the hive
-rests, one-half inch space answers, but five-eighths inch is preferable.
-The width of the hive will depend, of course, upon the number of frames
-decided upon, 1&#8540; inches being allowed for each frame, and three-eighths
-inch added for the extra space at the side. If a top story to contain
-frames for extracting is placed over the brood chamber, its depth is to
-be such as to leave the space between the two sets of combs not over
-five-sixteenths inch, and in this, as in the lower story, the space between
-the ends of the frames and the hive wall should be no more than three-eighths
-inch. A good way to keep rain from beating in between the
-stories and also to retain the warmth of the bees in outdoor wintering,
-yet admit of suitable provision for the upward escape of moisture, is
-to have the second story fit over the top of the lower one, and rest on
-ledges made by nailing strips around the latter one-half inch below the
-upper edge. As this makes the upper story nearly 2 inches larger from
-front to rear than the lower one: it will be necessary when arranging
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">- 45 -</span>
-this story for frames to make the front and rear double-walled. This
-is easily done by tacking on the inside of each end two half-inch strips,
-on which a halt-inch board is then nailed. These inside end pieces
-should be only wide enough to reach within three-fourths inch of the
-top edge of the outer ends, and, like the lower story, should be finished
-at the top with a metal rabbet for the frames to rest on, or the inside
-piece may be made to come within three-eighths inch of the top and its
-upper edge beveled so the frames can not be greatly propolized, an
-arrangement which answers very well for this story.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig29" style="width: 418px;">
- <img src="images/fig29.png" width="418" height="329" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 29.</span>&mdash;The Langstroth hive&mdash;Dadant-Quinby form&mdash;cross section showing construction.
-(From Langstroth.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>As to the width of hives and consequent number of frames each
-story is to hold, there has been of late much diversity of opinion.
-The original Langstroth hive held ten frames in the lower story and
-eleven frames in the second or top story. A demand for smaller-sized
-brood chambers and uniformity of the stories having been created, the
-larger hive-manufacturing establishments gave hives constructed to
-hold eight frames the most prominent place in their catalogues, and
-by many it was considered that those who adhered to the older, larger
-form did so merely through conservatism. But after some years' trial
-a reaction in favor of larger hives seems to have set in, especially
-among producers of extracted honey. Many of the latter are finding
-that with carefully bred queens even twelve-frame brood apartments
-give the best results. The author's experience of over twenty-five years
-with frame hives of various sizes and styles, both American and foreign,
-in widely differing climates, convinces him that to restrict a hive to
-a capacity of less than ten frames for the brood chamber is, in most
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">- 46 -</span>
-localities, undesirable, but it will frequently be found advantageous
-to contract temporarily the space occupied by the bees. For extracted
-honey alone, especially in any region having a short flow of honey,
-twelve-frame capacity is preferable. Thin, movable partitions, known
-as "division boards," enable
-one to contract the space at
-will, and the addition of supers
-or top stories gives storage
-room for surplus honey.
-Some prefer to have the hive
-in one story holding twice
-the usual number of frames
-and contractible with a division
-board. The entrance is
-then usually at one end, parallel
-with the combs, and the
-surplus honey is obtained from the rear part of the hive, either in sections
-held in wide frames or it is extracted with a machine from ordinary
-frames. This plan renders access to all of the frames somewhat
-easier than when two or more stories are used, but as the methods now
-most followed involve on
-the whole less manipulation
-of individual frames
-than was formerly deemed
-advantageous this superiority
-can not count for
-much&mdash;hardly enough in
-fact to balance the limitation
-as to the number of
-frames and the inconvenience
-of larger and more
-unwieldy hive bodies, covers,
-and bottom boards.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig30" style="width: 269px;">
- <img src="images/fig30.png" width="269" height="175" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 30.</span>&mdash;The Nonpareil hire. (From Bee-Keeping for
-Profit.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig31" style="width: 296px;">
- <img src="images/fig31.png" width="296" height="277" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 31.</span>&mdash;Dadant-Quinby form of Langstroth hive, open:
-<i>a</i>, front of brood apartment; <i>b</i>, alighting board; <i>c</i>, movable
-entrance block; <i>d</i>, cap; <i>e</i>, straw mat; <i>f</i>, carriage-cloth cover
-for frames; <i>g, g</i>, frames with combs. (From Langstroth.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Small hives may yield
-excellent results in the
-hands of a skillful bee-master,
-but an equal degree
-of skill will, in general,
-give as good, if not
-better, returns from large
-hives, and the novice who may not know just when or how to perform
-all operations will find himself much safer with hives holding ten or
-twelve frames in each story, and far more likely to secure good returns
-from them than from smaller ones.</p>
-
-<p>A good, tight roof or cover is indispensable, well painted, so that no
-drop of water can get in from above. A flat roof slanting from front to
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">- 47 -</span>
-rear will answer, but a ventilated gable roof with the sides well slanted
-is far preferable. Above the sections or the upper set of frames a piece
-of carriage cloth, enameled side down, should be laid during the summer
-season to prevent too great escape of heat above and to keep the bees
-from getting into the roof or propolizing it. The cloth is more suitable
-than a board, since the latter when propolized can not be removed without
-considerably jarring the bees. If the carriage cloth be weighted
-with a board which has been clamped with a strip across each end to
-prevent warping, there will be less propolization of the sections above
-or building of bits of comb on the tops of the frames when these have
-been used. To dispense with this extra piece and also to render the
-gable cover flat on the underside, the board which rests on the carriage
-cloth may be nailed to the cover permanently. During very hot
-weather the quilt may be turned back and the cover propped up.</p>
-
-<p>The bottom board to the hive may be nailed permanently or the hive
-may be merely placed on it. In either case the sides and back of the
-hive should be wide enough to come down over the edges of the bottom
-board and thus shed all water that runs down the outside of the hive.
-A sloping board in front will facilitate the entrance of heavily laden bees
-and many that fall to the ground will crawl in if the hive is within 8 or
-10 inches of the ground. Many persons place the bottom boards directly
-on the ground, and the majority have them but 3 or 4 inches above the
-surface. By arranging them farther from the ground, at least 6 or 8
-inches, dampness is avoided and the ease in manipulation is greatly
-increased. English manufacturers make the Langstroth hive with permanent
-legs some 6 or 8 inches long. This is no doubt necessary in
-the damp climate of that country, and even here the free circulation of
-the air beneath the hive and the entrance of direct rays of sunlight at
-times are so beneficial that there might well be a return to this valuable
-feature, which was part of the original Langstroth hive.</p>
-
-<p>Great accuracy of parts must be insisted upon in hives and frames,
-both because covers and top stories should be made to fit interchangeably,
-and because the bees carry out their own work with great precision,
-so that ease in manipulation of combs can only be secured by
-nice adjustment. Hives cut by machinery are therefore greatly to be
-preferred, and though most of those kept in stock by apiarian manufacturers
-do not include in their construction all of the features mentioned
-above, they still answer in most particulars the requirements
-of bee life, and, if proper protection for the winter be afforded, are very
-serviceable.</p>
-
-
-<h3>IMPLEMENTS.</h3>
-
-<h4>BEE SMOKERS.</h4>
-
-<p>No well-appointed apiary in these days is without one or more bee
-smokers. The professional bee keeper who has once used a bellows
-smoker would as soon think of dispensing with this implement as a
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">- 48 -</span>
-skillful cook would be disposed to go back from the modern cooking
-range to the old-fashioned fireplace.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig32top" style="width: 234px; margin-bottom:0; padding:0;">
- <img src="images/fig32top.png" width="234" height="55" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig32bot" style="width: 90px; margin-top:0; padding:0;">
- <img src="images/fig32bot.png" width="90" height="105" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 32.</span>&mdash;The Bingham bee smoker.</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>For hundreds of years smoke has been used to quell and even stupefy
-bees, and various forms of bee smokers have long been used; but the
-modern bellows form, so far superior to the old clumsy implements
-which oftentimes required both hands of the operator, or to be held
-between the teeth, is purely an American invention. Mr. M. Quinby,
-one of the pioneers in improved methods in apiculture in America, was
-the inventor of the bellows smoker having the fire box at the side of
-the bellows so arranged as to enable the operator to work it with
-one hand, and when not in use to
-stand it upright and secure a draft
-which would keep the fire going.
-Certain improvements on the original Quinby smoker
-have been made without changing the general form of
-the implement, one of the most effective and durable of
-these improved makes being the Bingham direct-draft
-smoker. Other modifications are the Crane, with a cut-off
-valve, the Clark, Hill, and Corneil smokers. The
-medium and larger sized smokers, even for use in small
-apiaries, are preferable. They light easier, take in all kinds of fuel, and
-hold fire better, while they are always much more effective since they
-furnish a large volume of smoke at a given instant, thus nipping in the
-bud any incipient rebellion. The bee smoker and its use are well shown
-by figs. <a href="#fig12">12</a>, <a href="#fig32top">32</a>, and <a href="#fig53">53</a>.</p>
-
-<h4>VEILS.</h4>
-
-<p>Veils for the protection of the face will be needed at times&mdash;for visitors
-if not for the manipulator. The beginner, however, should use
-one under all circumstances until he has acquired some skill in opening
-hives and manipulating frames and has become acquainted with the
-temper and notes of bees, so that he will have confidence when they
-are buzzing about him and will know when it is really safe to dispense
-with the face protector. Veils are made of various materials. In those
-which offer the least obstruction to the sight, black silk tulle or brussels
-net is used, the meshes of which are hexagonal. Linen brussels
-net is more durable than silk, as is also cotton, though the latter turns
-gray in time and obstructs the vision. By making the front only of
-silk and the sides of some ordinary white cotton netting the cost of the
-veil is less, but it is not so comfortable to wear in hot weather, being
-less open. A rubber cord is drawn into the upper edge, which brings
-the latter snugly in about the hat band. By having the veil long and
-full and drawing it over a straw hat with a wide, stiff brim, tying the
-lower edge about the shoulders or buttoning it inside a jacket or coat,
-the face is securely protected. (Fig. 12.)</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">- 49 -</span></p>
-
-<h4>HONEY EXTRACTORS AND HONEY KNIVES.</h4>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig33" style="width: 227px;">
- <img src="images/fig33.png" width="227" height="255" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 33.</span>&mdash;Williams' automatic reversible
- honey extractor.</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The honey extractor (<a href="#fig33">fig. 33</a>) consists of a large can, within which a
-light metal basket revolves. The full combs of honey, from which the
-cappings of the cells have been removed by a sharp knife, are placed
-inside the basket and after several
-rapid revolutions by means of a simple
-gearing are found to have been
-emptied of their contents. The combs,
-only very slightly damaged, can then
-be returned to the hives to be refilled
-by the bees. If extra sets of combs
-are on hand to supply as fast as the
-bees need the room in which to store
-honey, great yields can often be obtained.
-A good extractor should be
-made of metal, and the basket in
-which the combs are revolved should
-be light, strong, and doubly braced
-on the outside so that the wire-cloth
-surface, against which the combs
-press, will not yield. The wire cloth
-used, as well as all interior parts of the extractor, should be tinned,
-as acids of honey act on galvanized iron, zinc, iron, etc. Wire cloth
-made of coarse wire and with meshes one-half inch square is often
-used, but it injures the surface of new combs and those very heavy
-with honey more than that made
-of about No. 20 wire and with
-one-fourth-inch meshes.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig34" style="width: 247px;">
- <img src="images/fig34.png" width="247" height="72" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 34.</span>&mdash;Quinby uncapping knife.</div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig35" style="width: 228px;">
- <img src="images/fig35.png" width="228" height="62" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 35.</span>&mdash;Bingham &amp; Hetherington uncapping
- knife.</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>For removing the wax covering
-with which the bees close
-the full cells a peculiarly shaped
-knife, known as an uncapping knife, is needed (figs. <a href="#fig34">34</a> and <a href="#fig35">35</a>). The
-blade, which should be of the finest steel to hold a keen edge, is fixed
-at such an angle with the handle as to keep the hand that grasps the
-latter from rubbing over the surface of the comb or the edges of the
-frames. The form of knife with
-curved point is best adapted to
-reach any depression in the comb,
-which, if uncapped and emptied
-of its honey, will likely next time
-be built out even with the general
-surface. Dipping the knife in hot water facilitates rapid work, and
-of course the heavier-bladed knives hold the heat better than thin
-bladed ones, and are for this reason preferred by some; also because
-they more surely lift the capping clear from the surface of the comb.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">- 50 -</span></p>
-
-<h4>WAX EXTRACTORS.</h4>
-
-<p>A solar wax extractor is needed in every apiary; several are kept
-running in many large apiaries. Extractors which render wax by steam
-are also used. To the latter class belongs the improved Swiss wax
-extractor (<a href="#fig36">fig. 36</a>). This implement, invented in Switzerland and
-improved in America, consists of a tin or copper vessel with a circle of
-perforations in the bottom near the sides to let in steam from a boiler
-below, and within this upper vessel another receptacle&mdash;the comb
-receiver&mdash;made of perforated zinc. Its use, as well as that of the solar
-wax extractor, is described under the head of "Wax production."</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig36" style="width: 161px;">
- <img src="images/fig36.png" width="161" height="214" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 36.</span>&mdash;Excelsior wax extractor.</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Within a few years wax extractors employing the heat of the sun
-and known as solar wax extractors have come into general use (<a href="#fig61">fig. 61</a>).
-The essential features in all the forms that have been devised are a
-metal tank with a glass cover and usually a wire-cloth strainer, below
-which is placed the receptacle for the wax,
-the whole so arranged as to enable one to tilt
-it at such an angle as will catch the direct
-rays of the sun. The effectiveness of the
-solar wax extractor is increased by having
-the glass doubled, and adding also a reflector,
-such as a mirror or a sheet of bright metal.
-An important advantage of the solar wax
-extractor is the ease with which small quantities
-of comb can be rendered. By having
-this machine much is therefore saved that
-might be ruined by wax moth larv&aelig; if allowed
-to accumulate, besides serving at the same
-time to increase these pests about the apiary.
-The wax obtained by solar heat is also of
-superior quality, being clean, never water-soaked nor scorched, and
-also light in color, owing to the bleaching action of the sunlight.</p>
-
-<p>The cost of a medium-sized solar wax extractor does not exceed that
-of the larger Swiss steam extractors, yet of the two the former is likely
-to prove by far the more valuable, even though it can be used only
-during the warmer months.</p>
-
-<h4>QUEEN-INTRODUCING CAGES.</h4>
-
-<p>In every apiary there should be several of these on hand. The best
-are such as permit the caging of the queen directly on the comb over
-cells of honey. A little practice will enable anyone to make very
-serviceable and cheap cages for introducing queens. From a piece of
-wire cloth having ten to twelve meshes to the inch cut a strip 2 inches
-wide; cut this in pieces 4&frac14; inches long, roll each piece around a stick
-to give it a cylindrical form, lap the edges, and sew with a piece of
-wire. Then in one end of this cylinder make slits three-quarters inch
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">- 51 -</span>
-apart and three-quarters inch deep, and bend over the tongues thus
-formed so as to close this end of the cage. With the flat end of a
-pencil press warm wax or comb into the bottom inside to give it firmness.
-Then unravel five or six strands of the wire cloth at the other end.
-The wire points left after unraveling these strands may be pressed into
-the comb so as to confine a queen and four or five of her attendant
-workers. (<a href="#fig66">Fig. 66.</a>)</p>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig37" style="width: 254px;">
- <img src="images/fig37.png" width="254" height="72" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 37.</span>&mdash;Simplicity feeder. (From A B C of Bee
-Culture.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Most of the queen-mailing cages are arranged to admit of their use
-in introducing the queens also, so that when received it is only necessary
-to withdraw a cork and place the cage on top of the brood frames,
-thus admitting the bees to the candy. They will eat their way in and
-release the queen in twenty-four to forty-eight hours. This plan is
-very good for such as lack experience in handling queens, and hence
-might injure them by grasping the abdomen, by pinching the thorax
-too hard, or by catching the legs on the wire cloth of the introducing
-cage.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig38" style="width: 458px;">
- <img src="images/fig38.png" width="458" height="318" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 38.</span>&mdash;Fruit-jar bee feeder. Bottom of feeding stage and perforated cap shown separately. (Orig.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<h4>BEE FEEDERS.</h4>
-
-<p>During warm weather liquid food may be placed in any open receptacles
-which can be set in the
-upper stories of the hives. Tin
-fruit or vegetable cans that have
-been used may be made to serve
-the purpose, a wooden float for
-each or some bits of comb being
-put in to keep the bees from drowning; but during cool weather feeders
-arranged to admit the bees but not permit the escape of heat had better
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">- 52 -</span>
-be employed. Glass fruit jars with metal caps are generally at Land, and
-make excellent feeders by merely punching a few holes in each cap.
-After the jar is filled with liquid food and the cap screwed on tightly
-it is inverted over a feed hole in the quilt or honey board. The cap, or
-top story, with cover, protects the whole, and it is very easy to see when
-more food is wanted by merely raising the cover slightly. If arranged
-on a feeding stage covered on the underside with wire cloth, as shown
-in <a href="#fig38">fig. 38</a>, feeding may be accomplished without being troubled by the
-workers.</p>
-
-<p>Feeders of various forms constructed of wood or tin, or of these
-materials combined, most of them serving the purpose excellently, are
-offered in catalogues of apiarian manufacturers.</p>
-
-<h4>SECTION FOLDERS.</h4>
-
-<p>Sections can be folded or put together readily over an accurately
-made block just large enough to fill the space inclosed by a section,
-and several machines to facilitate the work in case it is to be done on
-a large scale have been devised.</p>
-
-<h4>BEE ESCAPES.</h4>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig39" style="width: 263px;">
- <img src="images/fig39.png" width="263" height="111" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 39.</span>&mdash;The Porter spring bee escape.</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The bee escape (<a href="#fig39">fig. 39</a>) is an important labor-saving invention for
-the honey producer. A number of them may be regarded as necessary
-in every apiary. They are inserted
-in holes bored in a honey
-board and used in freeing
-supers from bees, as described
-under "Honey production."</p>
-
-<h4>FOUNDATION FASTENERS.</h4>
-
-<p><i>For sections.</i>&mdash;Several styles
-of implements for fastening
-thin foundation in sections have been devised. All of them do the
-work well. A simple one, which is also low priced, is Parker's; Clark's
-and the Daisy are also highly recommended, and A. C. Miller's is very
-complete, working automatically. The latter, and the Daisy shown in
-<a href="#fig40">fig. 40</a>, each require the use of a lamp.</p>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig40" style="width: 135px;">
- <img src="images/fig40.png" width="135" height="261" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 40.</span>&mdash;The Daisy
-foundation fastener. (From Gleanings.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p><i>For frames.</i>&mdash;If the top bars of the frames have a slot or saw kerf
-one-eighth to three-sixteenths inch deep on the underside, made by
-passing them lengthwise over a circular saw, sheets of foundation can
-be very readily fastened by slipping the edge into this groove and running
-melted wax along the angle formed on each side by the foundation
-and the top bar. Or a wedge-shaped strip may be crowded in at the side
-and secured with small wire nails. If the top bar is flat on the underside
-it will be necessary to press the foundation firmly against it; that is, to
-incorporate the edge of the wax sheet into the wood of the top bar by
-rubbing it with a smooth bit of hard wood or bone, such as a knife handle,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">- 53 -</span>
-moistening this implement to prevent the wax from sticking, and then
-fix it firmly by pouring melted wax down the other side. In the case
-of top bars having triangular comb guides or a projecting tongue on
-the underside the foundation can be securely fastened by merely cutting
-five or six slits three-eighths to one-half inch
-deep in one edge of the foundation and bending the
-tongues thus formed in alternate directions so as
-to place the V-edge of the top bar between them,
-when they can be firmly attached to the top bar by
-rubbing with a knife handle as before. Soapsuds
-or starch water may be used to advantage in moistening
-the knife handle. The foundation roller (<a href="#fig41">fig. 41</a>),
-a small disk of hard wood which revolves in a
-slot at the end of a handle and costs but a few
-cents, does effective work in fastening foundation
-in brood frames; in fact, it is rather better than
-the knife handle for the work just mentioned, except
-that it will not reach into the corners of the
-frames, and to secure the foundation there the knife
-handle must still be used. The roller will need to
-be moistened the same as the knife handle.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig41" style="width: 338px;">
- <img src="images/fig41.png" width="338" height="225" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 41.</span>&mdash;Fastening starter of comb foundation in
-frame. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>It is particularly important that the sheets of foundation be well
-fastened, for if one edge breaks loose with the weight of the bees it will
-crumple down in such a way as not only to ruin that comb, or rather to
-prevent the building of a good comb in the frame in question, but also
-very likely in the adjoining frames if they have not been previously
-built out; and in this case damage will probably result to them. To
-prevent bulging of the comb it is also essential that the sheets of foundation,
-if not wired, be narrower than the inside depth of the frame
-and shorter than its inside length. A full inch of space should be
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">- 54 -</span>
-allowed between the bottom bar and the sheet of foundation, and a
-half inch at each end for two-thirds of the way up.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig42" style="width: 280px;">
- <img src="images/fig42.png" width="280" height="148" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 42.</span>&mdash;Spur wire-embedder. (From Gleanings.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>With these precautions swarms may even be hived on full sheets of
-foundation without wiring the frames: but the practice will probably
-continue of using starters, chiefly in the case of swarms, and, when full
-sheets are employed, of alternating them with combs already built out.
-Some prefer to wire the frames even though it is considerable trouble,
-for the combs require less attention while in process of construction
-and are firmer for shipping, for use in the extractor, or for any other
-manipulation. Three or four horizontal wires will suffice. No. 30
-annealed tinned wire is the preferable size and quality. The end bars
-of the frame are pierced by four holes, the first 1 inch below the
-top bar. A small tack secures the end of the wire, which is then
-passed back and forth and drawn up so as to leave no slack. The
-four horizontal wires, 2 inches apart, will be sufficient to render
-combs quite secure. After fastening the foundation to the top bar in
-the usual way the wires are
-embedded in the wax by a
-spur embedder, which is a
-small wheel with grooved
-teeth (<a href="#fig42">fig. 42</a>). Where large
-numbers of frames are to
-be wired a current of electricity from a small battery
-will do the work more
-neatly and quickly than the
-spur embedder.</p>
-
-<p>The disadvantages of wiring frames are, first, its expense, caused
-chiefly by the time employed in doing it; and second, the fact that
-wherever the wire does not get embedded into the midrib of the foundation,
-as is sure to happen in many cases, the rearing of brood is interfered
-with, and also, under the methods employed by the majority in
-wintering, moisture is very likely to cause the combs to cleave from the
-wires, whereupon the bees are disposed to gnaw the combs away from
-the wires in spots and not rebuild them.</p>
-
-<p>These disadvantages, except that of expense, are overcome by incorporating
-fine wire in the sheets of foundation when they are rolled.
-The sheets are trimmed with wooden shears, which leave the ends of
-the wires projecting. These are then glued to the bars of the frame.
-The added expense is again the main objection, except to those who
-wish to ship colonies or nuclei, or transport them from place to place
-for pasturage.</p>
-
-<h4>COMB-FOUNDATION MACHINES.</h4>
-
-<p>The first attempts to give bees outlines of cells as a basis for comb
-building were made in Germany. The top bars of the frames were
-coated on the underside with beeswax, and a strip of wood having
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">- 55 -</span>
-the outlines of bees' cells cut on it was then pressed against this wax
-so as to form a guide which should lead the bees to build their combs
-within the frames. This was only a comb guide, but was succeeded by
-small strips of wax having the outlines of bees' cells pressed on them
-by hand, a block of wood being engraved for this purpose. The general
-use of comb foundation, especially of the full sheets, was only
-made possible through the improved means of manufacturing it developed
-in the United States. The slow process of hand stamping was
-succeeded by its rapid production on machines, the essential feature of
-which is two engraved cylinders
-between which the warm sheet of
-wax is made to pass (<a href="#fig43">fig. 43</a>).</p>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig43" style="width: 232px;">
- <img src="images/fig43.png" width="232" height="265" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 43.</span>&mdash;Comb-foundation machine. (From
- Langstroth.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Such machines are now made in numerous
-patterns costing from $15 up.
-Foundation is made with flat-bottomed
-cells and also with the same
-form as that given by the bees to
-combs constructed wholly by themselves.
-Both sorts are readily
-accepted by the bees and built out.
-Both these kinds are also made in
-various qualities and weights. Only
-a good quality of perfectly pure
-beeswax should be accepted. Brood
-foundation is made in light, medium,
-and heavy weights. For use in section
-boxes thin surplus and extra thin surplus are made of light-colored
-wax. When full sheets are used in sections it is better to have it extra
-thin lest there should be a noticeable toughness of the midrib, technically
-known as "fishbone." For unwired frames the medium or heavy brood-comb
-foundation should be employed.</p>
-
-<p>Until used it is best to keep comb foundation between sheets of paper
-and well wrapped, since if long exposed to the air the surface of the
-wax hardens somewhat, but if well packed it may be used years after
-it was made with almost the same advantage as when first rolled out.</p>
-
-<p>It requires considerable skill to make foundation successfully, and
-those who use but a small amount will do better to purchase their supply.
-The high quality of nearly all of the foundation thus far supplied in this
-country has also justified this plan. Should the practice of adulterating
-wax become as common among comb-foundation manufacturers
-in this country as on the continent of Europe no doubt many more
-would procure machines and make their own foundation.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">- 56 -</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.<br />
-
-<span class="smaller">BEE PASTURAGE.</span></h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>Bees obtain their food from such a variety of sources that there are
-few localities in our country where a small apiary could not be made to
-yield a surplus above its own needs. Even in the center of our larger
-cities bees placed on the roofs of stores and dwellings have often furnished
-quite a surplus gathered from the gardens of the city and its
-environs. Again, in regions where the soil is too light, rocky, or wet
-to admit of profitable cultivation, it is often the case that honey-producing
-plants abound; indeed, waste land is frequently far more profitable
-for the honey-producer than fields that have been brought under
-cultivation, especially when the latter are mainly devoted to grain or
-potato raising, for insignificant weeds in field or swamp often yield
-honey abundantly, and among the best yielders are certain forest trees,
-whose blossoms, by reason of their distance from the ground and in
-some instances their small size, escape notice. Showy flowers made
-double by the gardener's skill, such as roses, dahlias, chrysanthemums,
-etc., have rarely any attraction for our honey bees. Moreover, the small
-number of these ornamental plants usually found in any one locality
-renders the honey yield, even in case they are abundant secreters of
-nectar, so slight that they are of little value. The novice who is seeking
-to determine the honey resources of his locality should therefore
-not be led into error by these. He should compare the flora of his
-locality with reliable lists of honey-producing plants, and, if possible,
-consult some practical bee-master familiar with his surroundings. And
-all information on this score should be fully accepted only after careful
-verification, as it is very easy for anyone to be deceived regarding
-the sources of given honey yields&mdash;plants which produce abundantly
-one season not always yielding the next, or those that produce honey
-freely in one portion of the country not yielding anything in another.
-Soil and climate, the variations of successive seasons, and all other
-conditions affecting plant growth&mdash;conditions which even the most skillful
-scientific agriculturists admit are exceedingly difficult to understand,
-and in many respects, as yet unexplainable&mdash;influence the amount and
-quality of nectar secreted by a given plant.</p>
-
-<p>The danger of overstocking is largely imaginary, yet in establishing
-a large apiary it is of course essential to look to the natural
-resources of the location, and especially to decide only upon a place
-where two or more of the leading honey-producing plants are present
-in great numbers. In the North, willows, alder, maples, dandelion,
-fruit blossoms, tulip tree (frequently called whitewood), locust,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">- 57 -</span>
-clovers (white, alsike, crimson, and mammoth red), with alfalfa and
-melilot, chestnut, linden or basswood, Indian corn, buckwheat, fireweed,
-willow-herb, knotweeds, mints, cleome, golden-rods, Spanish
-needle, and asters may be cited as the chief sources of pollen and
-honey; and of these the tulip tree, locust, white clover, alfalfa, melilot,
-linden, and buckwheat furnish most of the surplus honey. The fruit
-blossoms, with the exception of raspberry, come so early that a small
-proportion only of the colonies are sufficiently strong to store surplus,
-and of course this statement applies with still more force to plants which
-blossom before apple, pear, cherry, etc. Some of the clovers, mustard,
-rape, cultivated teasel, chestnut, barberry, sumac coral berry, pleurisy
-root, fireweed, borage, mints, willow-herb, Spanish needles, cleome, etc.,
-though yielding well, are only found abundantly over certain areas,
-and do not therefore supply any considerable portion of the honey that
-appears on the market, though when any of them are plentiful in a
-certain locality the bee keeper located there will find in nearly all cases
-that the surplus honey is greatly increased thereby.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig44" style="width: 422px;">
- <img src="images/fig44.png" width="422" height="426" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 44.</span>&mdash;Willow herb (<i>Epilobium angustifolium</i>). A, young flower: <i>s</i>, stigma turned back: <i>a</i>, anthers;
-<i>l</i>, lobe or pod. B, older flower: <i>s</i>, stigma turned forward; <i>a</i>, anthers: <i>l</i>, lobe. C, spike of flowers.
-D, section of pollen grain: <i>e</i>, extine; <i>i</i>, intine; <i>ti</i>, thick intine; <i>f</i>, fovilla. E, growing point of pollen
-grain: <i>e, e</i>, extine; <i>i, i</i>, intine; <i>f</i>, fovilla; <i>pt</i>, pollen tube. (From Cheshire.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">- 58 -</span></p>
-
-<p>In the middle section of our country, from Maryland, Virginia, and
-North Carolina westward, most of the sources named above are present,
-although the maples (particularly hard maple) furnish less, and fruit
-bloom, the clovers, linden, and buckwheat are not as great yielders as in
-the North. Sourwood or sorrel tree, mountain laurels, sour gum or
-tupelo, huckleberry, cowpea, magnolia, and persimmon make up in part
-for these, the sourwood being especially important, while in some localities
-certain species of asters yield very abundantly. The tulip tree
-(known commonly as poplar) is a greater yielder than in the North,
-while in the western portion of the middle section the Rocky Mountain
-bee plant or cleome and more extensive areas of alfalfa and melilot are
-very important sources.</p>
-
-<p>In the more southern States fruit bloom is far from being as great a
-source of honey as in the North, though with the extension of orange
-groves in Florida and Louisiana an increased production of very fine
-honey maybe looked for in those States. The titi, magnolia, palmetto,
-and black mangrove yield well in some parts, and sour gum (tupelo or
-pepperidge), cotton, and pennyroyal are sources not to be overlooked.
-In Texas horsemint and mesquite, the latter also extending farther
-West, furnish fine yields, while many mountain localities of southern
-California are clothed with white and black sages&mdash;wonderful honey
-producers. In certain localities there the orange and other fruit
-orchards, and also wild buckwheat, give the bees excellent pasturage
-for a portion of the year.</p>
-
-<p>Certain small homopterous insects, such as plant-lice, bark-lice, mealy-wings,
-and some leaf-hoppers, which congregate on the leaves or bark of
-various plants and trees, notably pines, oaks, and beeches, and suck
-their juices, secrete a sweet liquid, which is often taken up by bees as it
-falls on the surrounding vegetation. This secretion, commonly known
-as honeydew, or plant-louse honey, is usually of an inferior qua lit y,
-though that from pine-tree aphides is sometimes fairly good. Most of
-it granulates very soon after having been gathered, sometimes even
-before the cells have been sealed.</p>
-
-<p>Under peculiar conditions of the atmosphere sweet exudations, also
-known as honeydew, drop from the leaves of certain plants and are
-eagerly taken up by the bees. This substance is sometimes very
-abundant and of excellent quality. It should not, however, be confounded
-with the secretions of extra-floral glands such as are possessed
-by the cowpea, horse bean, partridge pea, and vetches. These seem
-to be natural productions for the purpose of attracting insects to the
-plants, while the former is apparently an accidental exudation through
-the plant pores, brought about very likely by some sudden change of
-temperature. Both are, however, merely the saccharine juices of the
-plant, and when refined by the bees may become excellent honey.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">- 59 -</span></p>
-
-
-<h3>CULTIVATION OF HONEY PLANTS</h3>
-
-<p>In all localities there will probably be found intervals during the
-working season when bees will find very little or even nothing
-gather, unless supplied by cultivation. When possible it is ah
-best to till in such intervals with some honey-producing plant which at
-the same time furnishes some other product&mdash;fruit, grain, forage, green
-manure, or timber. The attempt to cultivate any plant for its honey
-alone has not thus far been found profitable, in practice, however
-promising it may seem theoretically. Catnip (<i>Nepeta cataria</i>), motherwort
-(<i>Leonurus cardiaca</i>), globe thistle (<i>Echinops sph&aelig;rocephalus</i>),
-figwort (<i>Scrophularia nodosa</i>), bee balm (<i>Melissa officinalis</i>), borage
-(<i>Borago officinalis</i>), Rocky Mountain cleome (<i>Cleome serrulata</i>), melilot
-or sweet clover (<i>Melilotus alba</i>), and linden (<span class="smcap">Tilia americana</span>) have
-all been recommended repeatedly and tried here and there somewhat
-extensively. But thus far the hope of securing a sufficient increase in
-the crop of honey to pay for the cultivation of these plants has in all
-cases had to be abandoned. With the appreciation in value of agricultural
-lands the prospects for the profitable cultivation of any crop
-for honey alone are still further removed. Yet the writer is fully convinced
-that in the future, especially in the older portions of our country,
-eminent success in bee raising will require much more attention to the
-furnishing of artificial pasturage for the bees, a close study, in fact, of
-the bee flora of one's locality, and a systematic effort to supply the
-deficiencies by sowing self-propagating honey plants, and such as may
-be cultivated with profit for other reasons besides their honey yield.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig45" style="width: 434px;">
- <img src="images/fig45.png" width="434" height="276" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 45.</span>&mdash;Wagner a flat pea (<i>Lathyrus sylvestris wagneri</i>).</div>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">- 60 -</span></p>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig46" style="width: 273px;">
- <img src="images/fig46.png" width="273" height="247" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 46.</span>&mdash;Dwarf Essex or winter rape (<i>Brassica napus</i>).</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Among those plants which have just been mentioned as having been
-cultivated at various times for their honey alone, the linden for shade
-and ornament as well as for timber, catnip for sale as an herb or to
-secure its seed, and melilot for forage or green manuring are the only ones
-which, under present conditions, might in some cases be profitably
-cultivated. There may be introduced with advantage, however, all
-such honey-producing plants
-as, with one sowing or planting,
-will readily propagate
-themselves and without cultivation
-extend their area
-along roadsides and over
-waste lands, always excepting
-of course such as may
-become troublesome weeds.
-For this purpose most of the
-plants referred to above are
-available, and many others
-which like these are adapted
-to one portion or another of
-our country might be added,
-as, for example, pleurisy root
-or butterfly weed (<i>Asclepias
-tuberosa</i>), Indian currant or coral berry (<i>Symphoricarpos symphoricarpos</i>),
-viper's bugloss (<i>Echium vulgare</i>), lady's thumb (<i>Polygonum
-persicaria</i>), horsemint (<i>Monarda citriodora</i>), willow-herb (<i>Epilobium
-angustifolium</i>), etc., but of course it can not be expected that they will
-thrive and thoroughly establish themselves without further attention,
-except in such localities as present very favorable
-conditions for their growth. Furthermore,
-there is always the risk that a plant which
-yields honey abundantly in one part of the
-country may not do so in another region, even
-though it grows well, so that it is necessary
-in most cases, especially with wild plants, to
-test them anew before extensive introduction,
-no matter how well established their reputation
-as honey producers may be elsewhere.</p>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig47" style="width: 150px;">
- <img src="images/fig47.png" width="150" height="238" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 47.</span>&mdash;Summer or bird rape
-(<i>Brassica napus</i>).</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Among plants of economic value in other
-directions fruit trees and shrubs are to be
-counted as of much importance to bees. The
-apple and the cherry yield well, the others less,
-though the gooseberry, were it more plentiful,
-would be of considerable value. Strawberry
-blossoms are, in general, visited sparingly and
-yield only a small amount, but the raspberry, coming later, when the
-colonies are stronger, is a most important source, greatly liked by the
-bees, and furnishing as fine a quality of honey as is known. Ten acres<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">- 61 -</span>
-in raspberries will furnish pasturage for three weeks to 75 or 100 colonies
-of bees. Mustard for seed, and rape for pasture and seed, may be made
-to furnish much to the bees in early spring. Buckwheat honey is dark
-and strong, but is relished by some, and when well ripened is good
-winter food for bees, so that whenever this plant can be made to blossom
-at a time when the bees find nothing better and a crop of grain can
-also be harvested from it, a plentiful
-supply should by all means be
-sown: the clovers, white, alsike,
-crimson, and mammoth or medium
-red may be sown for pasturage,
-hay, forage, for purposes of green
-manuring, or for seed, and honey
-of fine quality obtained if a sufficient
-number of blossoms are
-allowed to appear.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig48" style="width: 236px;">
- <img src="images/fig48.png" width="236" height="188" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 48.</span>&mdash;Sacaline or giant knotweed (Polygonum
-sachalinense).</div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig49" style="width: 130px;">
- <img src="images/fig49.png" width="130" height="226" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 49.</span>&mdash;Russian or hairy
-vetch (Vicia villosa).</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Alfalfa (<i>Medicago sativa</i>), a most important honey
-producer as well as perennial forage
-crop, can be grown over a much
-greater area of the United States than has heretofore been generally
-supposed. Sainfoin (<i>Onobrychis sativa</i>) and serradella (<i>Ornithopus
-sativus</i>), both most excellent honey plants, have not received the attention
-they merit either North or South. Japan clover (<i>Lespedeza striata</i>)
-is grown profitably in the South, and more even might be expected
-from the introduction of sulla clover (<i>Hedysarum
-coronarium</i>) there, the latter a great honey producer.
-Chicory, even on poor soil, is a good honey
-and pollen plant. Northern bee keepers should try
-the dwarf (quick-growing) varieties of cowpeas
-(<i>Vigna sinensis</i>) extensively grown in the South for
-forage and green manuring. Vetches are of recognized
-value for the same purposes, especially the
-Russian hairy vetch (<i>Vicia villosa</i>). Sacaline
-(<i>Polygonum sachalinense</i>) and flat peas (<i>Lathyrus sylvestris</i>)
-are visited by bees, and in certain situations
-may be found of value otherwise. Peppermint
-(<i>Mentha piperita</i>) yields well in July and August.
-Parsnips (<i>Pastinaca sativa</i>) when grown for seed
-are assiduously visited by bees for honey during
-June. July, and August. Gorse or furze (<i>Ulex
-europ&aelig;us</i>) for forage may prove valuable in some localities here, as it
-is highly esteemed in some parts of Europe. Its odorous yellow blossoms,
-much frequented by bees, appear in May. Filbert bushes (<i>Corylus
-avellana</i>) will grow in many portions of our country, yielding, besides
-nuts, an abundance of early pollen, even in February or March. The
-carob tree (<i>Ceratonia siliqua</i>) succeeds in the Southwest, yielding a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">- 62 -</span>
-crop of economic value, besides a harvest in late summer for bees. It
-is also a fine ornamental tree. There are no finer shade or ornamental
-trees for the lawn or roadside than lindens (basswoods) and horse-chestnuts.
-To these chestnut, locust, sourwood, and tulip trees may be
-added. The timber of all is useful; and since they are great honey
-yielders their propagation near the apiary is very desirable.</p>
-
-<p>Bees range ordinarily within 2 or 3 miles in all directions from their
-homes, but sometimes go farther. Pasturage to be especially valuable,
-however, should be within 2 miles, and less than a mile distant to
-the main source is quite preferable. The advantage is probably not so
-much in the saving of time in going back and forth, for bees fly with
-great rapidity, but because when sudden storms arise, especially those
-accompanied by high winds, the heavily laden bees are more likely to
-reach home safely and the hive will not be decimated of its gathering
-force.</p>
-
-
-<h3>BEES AS CROSS-FERTILIZERS.</h3>
-
-<p>Allusion has already been made in this bulletin to the importance of
-bees in the complete cross fertilization of fruit blossoms and to the fact
-that certain varieties of pears have been found to be completely self-sterile,
-requiring, therefore, pollen from other varieties before they can
-develop perfect seeds and fruits. It is interesting to study the ways
-in which cross fertilization of plants is secured through the visits of
-insects. The part that bees perform in the development and perpetuation
-of numerous ornamental and economic plants is thereby clearly
-shown. Space will only permit the introduction here of one or two
-examples. The willow-herb, which is an abundant secreter of nectar
-and thus attracts bees freely, illustrates one feature in pollination by
-bees. A young blossom of this plant (<a href="#fig44">fig. 44, A</a>) shows the stamens
-maturing and shedding their pollen, while the pistil remains curved
-downward and with closed stigmas. In the older flower (<a href="#fig44">fig. 44, B</a>),
-the stamens having shed their pollen and begun to wither, the pistil
-has straightened up and exposed its stigmatic surfaces for the reception
-of the pollen which a bee chancing to come from a younger blossom
-is likely to bring. Self-pollination is thus positively prevented and
-cross fertilization is insured.</p>
-
-<p>In the mountain laurel the anthers are held securely by little pockets
-in the corolla, so that as the flower opens the stamens are found bent
-over (<a href="#fig50">fig. 50, B</a>) ready to be liberated (<a href="#fig50">fig. 50, C</a>) by the visit of a bee.
-When the stamen flies up the pollen is discharged from the anther and
-dusted on the underside of the bee. The latter as it alights on the
-next flower naturally touches the stigma first and rubs off some of the
-pollen it has brought from the last flower visited. It then proceeds to
-secure the nectar of the flower on which it has just alighted, and in
-doing this liberates the stamens of this flower and gets dusted again
-with pollen, which it carries to the next flower.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">- 63 -</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig50" style="width: 427px;">
- <img src="images/fig50.png" width="427" height="281" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 50.</span>&mdash;Mountain laurel (<i>Kalmia latifolia</i>). A, flowering branch. B, expanded flower: <i>ap</i>, anther
-pocket. C, section of expanded flower: <i>ap, ap</i>, anther pockets; <i>s</i>, stigma: <i>a</i>, anther (free); <i>pg</i>, pollen
-grains in shower: <i>ca</i>, calyx. D, section of flower bud: <i>ap</i>, anther pocket. E, stamen more enlarged:
-<i>a</i>, anther; <i>po</i>, pores; <i>pg</i>, pollen grains; <i>f</i>, filament. (From Cheshire.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig51" style="width: 326px;">
- <img src="images/fig51.png" width="326" height="143" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 51.</span>&mdash;Apple (<i>Pyrus malus</i>), showing structure of flower and result of imperfect fertilization.
-A, blossom: <i>s</i>, stigmas; <i>a</i>, anthers; <i>p</i>, petal; <i>s&#8242;</i>, sepal; <i>ca</i>, calyx; <i>d</i>, dissepiment. B, cross section of
-imperfectly developed fruit: <i>f, f</i>, fertilized carpels; <i>u</i>, unfertilised carpel. (From Cheshire.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The cross section of an imperfectly developed apple shown herewith
-(<a href="#fig51">fig. 51, B</a>) illustrates the importance of complete fertilization of fruit
-blossoms. The seed vessel at u shows only an abortive seed, and the
-side of the fruit nearest this point is also correspondingly undeveloped.
-This is owing to imperfect or complete lack of fertilization of this
-carpel, five distinct fertilizations being necessary to produce a perfect
-fruit. Bees being, during the period of fruit blossoms, the most abundant
-insects that might effect the necessary distribution of the pollen
-of these flowers, the importance is at once seen of having an apiary in
-or near the orchard. Continued rainy or cold weather may keep the
-bees confined to their hives much of the time during fruit bloom, hence
-it is advisable to have them near at hand and in numbers proportionate
-to the size of the orchards, so that even a few hours of sunshine will
-assure their making a thorough distribution of the pollen. In the
-absence of accurate experiments regarding the number of colonies of
-bees required to insure proper fertilization in the orchard, and also in
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">- 64 -</span>
-view of the fact that surrounding conditions vary greatly, it is difficult
-to say exactly how many colonies are positively necessary for a given
-number of trees. However, four or five well-populated hives for every
-hundred large apple trees will doubtless suffice, even though no other
-hive bees are within a mile of the orchard. The bees of a neighbor's
-apiary are often quite sufficient for the orchardist's purpose, the benefit
-resulting from their labors being, therefore, mutual, though the orchardist
-doubtless derives in this case greater advantage from them than
-does their owner himself. Escaped swarms lodged in forest trees in
-the vicinity of the orchard are sometimes sufficiently numerous to perform
-the work well. The great value of bees as cross fertilizers makes
-their destruction a serious injury to the interests of the fruit grower.
-Therefore spraying with arsenicals during fruit bloom should never be
-practiced. The injurious insects can be reached quite as well before
-and after the blooming period.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig52" style="width: 469px;">
- <img src="images/fig52.png" width="469" height="456" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 52.</span>&mdash;Heath-like wild aster (<i>Aster ericoides</i>). (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<table id="Plate_III" summary="Plate_III">
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl smaller">Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.</td>
- <td class="tdr smaller"><span class="smcap">Plate III.</span></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">
-
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 437px;">
- <img src="images/plate_3.png" width="437" height="710" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="smcap">Alfalfa</span> (<i>Medicago sativa</i>).</p>
-
- </td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<table id="Plate_IV" summary="Plate_IV">
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl smaller">Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.</td>
- <td class="tdr smaller"><span class="smcap">Plate IV.</span></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 453px;">
- <img src="images/plate_4.png" width="453" height="732" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="smcap">Esparcet or Sainfoin</span> (<i>Onobrychis sativa</i>).</p>
-
-<p>1, 2. 3, 4, parts of flower; 5, pod; 6, 7, seed</p>
-
- </td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<table id="Plate_V" summary="Plate_V">
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl smaller">Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.</td>
- <td class="tdr smaller"><span class="smcap">Plate V.</span></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 359px;">
- <img src="images/plate_5.png" width="359" height="819" alt="" />
-</div>
-
- </td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<table id="Plate_VI" summary="Plate_VI">
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl smaller">Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.</td>
- <td class="tdr smaller"><span class="smcap">Plate VI.</span></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 507px;">
- <img src="images/plate_6.png" width="507" height="830" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="smcap">Acacia</span> (<i>Acacia constricta</i>),</p>
-
- </td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<table id="Plate_VII" summary="Plate_VII">
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl smaller">Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.</td>
- <td class="tdr smaller"><span class="smcap">Plate VII.</span></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 530px;">
- <img src="images/plate_7.png" width="530" height="831" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="smcap">Mesquite</span> (<i>Prosopis juliflora</i>).</p>
-
- </td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<table id="Plate_VIII" summary="Plate_VIII">
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl smaller">Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.</td>
- <td class="tdr smaller"><span class="smcap">Plate VIII.</span></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 527px;">
- <img src="images/plate_8.png" width="527" height="836" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="smcap">Blue Weed or Viper's Bugloss</span> (<i>Echium vulgare</i>).</p>
-
- </td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<table id="Plate_IX" summary="Plate_IX">
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl smaller">Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.</td>
- <td class="tdr smaller"><span class="smcap">Plate IX.</span></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 535px;">
- <img src="images/plate_9.png" width="535" height="807" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="smcap">Crimson Clover</span> (<i>Trifolium incarnatum</i>).</p>
-
- </td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<table id="Plate_X" summary="Plate_X">
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl smaller">Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.</td>
- <td class="tdr smaller"><span class="smcap">Plate X.</span></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 449px;">
- <img src="images/plate_10.png" width="449" height="817" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="smcap">Alsike Clover</span> (<i>Trifolium hybridum</i>).</p>
-
- </td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">- 65 -</span></p>
-
-
-<h3>HONEY AND POLLEN PRODUCING PLANTS.</h3>
-
-<p>In the following lists the intention has been merely to indicate the
-main sources from which our hive bees secure honey and pollen. Anything
-like a complete enumeration of those plants of the United States
-visited by hive bees would occupy far too much space for a brief treatise
-like this. Many plants are therefore omitted which secrete nectar
-freely but which are abundant only locally; others are left out because
-they secrete only at rare intervals, or under peculiar conditions, or are
-visited by bees only when some better honey source fails; others again
-because, though secreting well and readily yielding their honey or pollen
-stores to the bees, they are not often present in sufficient numbers
-in any one locality to enable the bees to add materially to their surplus
-stores. Such plants are, however, often of great value because they
-cause the bees to rear brood during intervals between the times of storing
-surplus honey and thus keep the colonies populous for successive
-harvests.</p>
-
-<p>Besides the main honey plants it would be easy to name for any locality
-quite a number of secondary importance which are frequented by
-honey bees, yet even though the localities were but a few miles apart
-scarcely any two lists would agree either as to the plants to be included
-or as to their relative importance. The following honey and pollen producing
-plants are therefore of wide distribution or of special importance
-in certain localities.</p>
-
-<p>For convenience separate lists are given for the three sections of the
-United States made by the parallels of 35&deg; and 40&deg; N. The flora of the
-western portion of each section differs of course greatly from that of
-the eastern part of the same section. Only the most important honey
-yielders among those of local interest in the extreme Southwest and the
-West have been included in the lists, and the chief range of each has
-been noted. An effort has been made to indicate by the type the relative
-importance of the plants as pollen and honey producers.</p>
-
-
-<h4>NORTH AND NORTHEAST.</h4>
-
-<p class="tdc">[Above 40&deg; N.]</p>
-
-<table class="tblcont" summary="pollen sources">
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Red or Soft Maple (<i>Acer rubrum</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl" style="width: 5em;">April.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Alders (<i>Alnus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">April.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Elm (<i>Ulmus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">April.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Willows (<i>Salix</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Dandelion</i> (<i>Taraxacum taraxacum</i> = <i>T. officinale</i> of Gray's Manual)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Sugar</i>, <i>Rock</i>, or <i>Hard Maple</i> (<i>Acer saccharum</i> = <i>A. saccharinum</i> of Gray's
- Manual)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Juneberry</i>, or <i>Service Berry</i> (<i>Amelanchier canadensis</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Wild Crab Apples (<i>Pyrus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Gooseberry</span> and <span class="smcap">Currant</span> (<i>Ribes</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Peach</span>, <span class="smcap">Cherry</span>, and <span class="smcap">Plum</span> (<i>Prunus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Pear</span> and <span class="smcap">Apple</span> (<i>Pyrus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Huckleberries and Blueberries (<i>Gaylussacia</i> and <i>Vaccinium</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Common</span>, <span class="smcap">Black</span>, or <span class="smcap">Yellow Locust</span> (<i>Robinia pseudacacia</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">European Horse-chestnut (<i>&AElig;sculus hippocastanum</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Common Barberry (<i>Berberis vulgaris</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Tulip Tree</span>, or "<span class="smcap">Whitewood</span>" (<i>Liriodendron tulipifera</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Grapevines (<i>Vitis</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Rape (<i>Brassica napus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">- 66 -</span>
- <i>White Mustard</i> and <i>Black Mustard</i> (<i>Brassica alba</i> and <i>B. nigra</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">RASPBERRY (<i>Rubus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">WHITE CLOVER (<i>Trifolium repens</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June-July.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">ALSIKE CLOVER (<i>Trifolium hybridum</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June-July.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Edible Chestnut (<i>Castanea dentata</i> = <i>C. sativa</i> var. <i>americana</i> of Gray's
- Manual)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June-July.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Alfalfa</span>, or <span class="smcap">Lucern</span> (<i>Medicago sativa</i>) June-July.
- LINDEN, or BASSWOOD (<i>Tilia americana</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">July.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Smooth Sumac (<i>Rhus glabra</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">July.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Buttonbush</i> (<i>Cephalanthus occidentalis</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">July.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Melilot</span>, <span class="smcap">Bokhara</span>, or <span class="smcap">Sweet Clover</span> (<i>Melilotus alba</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">July-Aug.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Indian Corn (Zea mags)</td>
- <td class="tdl">July-Aug.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Melon, Cucumber, Squash, Pumpkin (<i>Citrullus</i>, <i>Cucumis</i>, and <i>Cucurbita</i>).</td>
- <td class="tdl">July-Aug.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Fireweed</i> (<i>Erechthites hieracifolia</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">July-Sept.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Chicory (<i>Cichorium intybus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl wsnw">July-Sept.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Great Willow-herb</span> (<i>Epilobium angustifolium</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">July-Aug.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Knotweeds</span> (<i>Polygonum</i>, especially <i>P. pennsylvanicum</i> and <i>P. persicaria</i>).</td>
- <td class="tdl">Aug.-Sept.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">BUCKWHEAT (<i>Fagopyrum fagopyrum</i> = <i>F. esculentum</i> of Gray's Manual).</td>
- <td class="tdl">Aug.-Sept.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Indian Currant, or Coral Berry (<i>Symphoricarpos symphoricarpos</i> = <i>S. vulgaris</i>
- of Gray's Manual)</td>
- <td class="tdl wsnw">Aug.-Sept.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Thorough wort, or Boneset (<i>Eupatorium perfoliatum</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Aug.-Sept.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Bur Marigolds</i> (<i>Bidens</i>, especially <span class="smcap">Spanish Needles</span>, <i>Bidens bipinnata</i>).</td>
- <td class="tdl">Aug.-Oct.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Wild Asters (<i>Aster</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Aug.-Oct.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Golden-rods</span> (<i>Solidago</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Aug.-Oct.</td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-<h4>MIDDLE SECTION.</h4>
-
-<p class="tdc">[Between 35&deg; and 40&deg; N.]</p>
-
-<table class="tblcont" summary="pollen sources">
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Redbud (<i>Cercis canadensis</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl" style="width: 5em;">Mar.-Apr.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Alder (<i>Alnus rugosa</i> = <i>A. serrulata</i> of Gray's Manual)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Mar.-Apr.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Red or Soft Maple (<i>Acer rubrum</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Mar.-Apr.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Elm (<i>Ulmus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Mar.-Apr.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Willows (<i>Salix</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Mar.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Dandelion</i> (<i>Taraxacum taraxacum</i> = <i>T. officinale</i> of Gray's Manual)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Apricot</i> (<i>Prunus armeniaca</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Juneberry</i> or <i>Service Berry</i> (<i>Amelanchier canadensis</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Wild Crab Apples (<i>Pyrus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Gooseberry</i> and <i>Currant</i> (<i>Ribes</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Rhododendrons (<i>Rhododendron</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Peach</i>, <i>Cherry</i>, and <i>Plum</i> (<i>Prunus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Pear</i> and <i>Apple</i> (<i>Pyrus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Crimson Clover</span> (<i>Trifolium incarnatum</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Huckleberries and Blueberries (<i>Gaylussacia</i> and <i>Vaccinium</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">American Holly (<i>Ilex opaca</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Black Gum</i>, <i>Sour Gum</i>, <i>Tupelo</i> or <i>Pepperidge</i>
- (<i>Nyssa aquatica</i> = <i>N. sylvatica</i> of Gray's Manual)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Manzanitas (<i>Arctostaphylos</i>) (California)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Common</span>, <span class="smcap">Black</span>,
- or <span class="smcap">Yellow Locust</span> (<i>Robinia pseudacacia</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Barberry (<i>Berberis canadensis</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">TULIP TREE, or "POPLAR" (<i>Liriodendron tulipifera</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Mountain Laurel (<i>Kalmia latifolia</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Grapevines (<i>Vitis</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Persimmon</i> (<i>Diospyros virginiana</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">White Clover</span> (<i>Trifolium repens</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Alsike Clover</i> (<i>Trifolium hybridum</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Raspberry</span> (<i>Rubus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">- 67 -</span>
- <span class="smcap">Cowpea</span> (<i>Vigna sinensis</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-Aug.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Edible Chestnut</span> (<i>Castanet dentata</i> = <i>C. saliva</i>
- var. <i>americana</i> of Gray's Manual)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Chinquapin</i> (<i>Castanea pumila</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Catalpas, or Indian Bean Trees (<i>Catalpa</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Magnolia</span>, or <span class="smcap">Sweet Bay</span> (<i>Magnolia glauca</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Linden</span>, or "<span class="smcap">Linn</span>" (<i>Tilia americana</i>
- and <i>T. heterophylla</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">SOURWOOD, or SORREL TREE (<i>Oxydendrum arboreum</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June-July.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Oxeye Daisy</i>, or <i>Whiteweed</i> (<i>Chrysanthemum leucanthemum</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June-July.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">ALFALFA (<i>Medicago saliva</i>) (West)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June-Aug.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">MELILOT, BOKHARA, or SWEET CLOVER (<i>Melilotus alba</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June-Aug.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Smooth Sumac (<i>Rhus glabra</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">July.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Buttonbush</i> (<i>Cephalanthus occidentalis</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">July.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Cleome</span>, or "<span class="smcap">Rocky Mountain
- Bee Plant</span>" (<i>Cleome serrulata</i> = <i>C. integrifolia</i> of Gray's Manual) (West)</td>
- <td class="tdl">July-Aug.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Indian Corn (<i>Zea mays</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">July-Aug.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Cucumber. Melon. Squash. Pumpkin (<i>Cucumis</i>, <i>Citrullus</i>, and <i>Cucurbita</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">July-Aug.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Knotweeds</i> (<i>Polygonum</i>, especially <i>P. pennsylvanicum</i> and <i>P. persicaria</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">July-Sept.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Buckwheat</i> (<i>Fagopyrum fagopyrum</i> = <i>F. esculentum</i> of Gray's Manual)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Aug.-Sept.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Wild Asters (<i>Aster</i>, especially <span class="smcap">Heath-like Aster</span>, <i>Aster ericoides</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Aug.-Oct.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Thoroughwort, or Boneset (<i>Eupatorium perfoliatum</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Aug.-Oct.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Bur Marigolds (<i>Bidens</i>, especially <span class="smcap">Spanish Needles</span>,
- <i>Bidens bipinnata</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Aug.-Oct.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Golden-rods (<i>Solidago</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Aug.-Oct.</td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-
-<h4>SOUTH.</h4>
-
-<p class="tdc">[Below 35&deg; N.]</p>
-
-<table class="tblcont" summary="pollen sources">
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Redbud (<i>Cercis canadensis</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl" style="width: 5em;">Feb.-Mar.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Alder (<i>Alnus rugosa</i> = <i>A. serrulata</i> of Gray's Manual )</td>
- <td class="tdl">Feb.-Mar.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Red or Soft Maple (<i>Acer rubrum</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Feb.-Mar.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Elm (<i>Ulmus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Feb.-Mar.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Willows (<i>Salix</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Feb.-Mar.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Dandelion (<i>Taraxacum taraxacum</i> = <i>T. officinale</i> of Gray's Manual)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Feb.-Mar.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Apricot</i> (<i>Prunus armeniaca</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Feb.-Mar.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Wild Pennyroyal</span> (<i>Hedeoma pulegioides</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Feb.-Mar.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Carolina Cherry, or Laurel Cherry (<i>Prunus caroliniana</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">March.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Juueberry, or Service Berry (<i>Amelanchier canadensis</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">March.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Orange</span> and <i>Lemon</i> (<i>Citrus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Mar.-Apr.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Cottonwoods</i>, or <i>Poplars</i> (<i>Populus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Mar.-Apr.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Titi</span> (<i>Cliftonia monophylla</i>) (Florida and southern Georgia, westward.)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Mar.-Apr.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Gooseberry and Currant (<i>Ribes</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Mar.-Apr.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Peach</i>, <i>Cherry</i>, and <i>Plum</i> (<i>Prunus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Mar.-Apr.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Pear</i> and Apple (<i>Pyrus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Mar.-Apr.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Huckleberries and Blueberries (<i>Gaylussacia</i> and <i>Vaccinium</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">April.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Crimson Clover</i> (<i>Trifolium incarnatum</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">April.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Black Gum</span>, <span class="smcap">Sour Gum</span>, <span class="smcap">Tupelo</span>, or <span class="smcap">Pepperidge</span>
- (<i>Nyssa aquatica</i> = <i>N. sylvatica</i> of Gray's Manual)</td>
- <td class="tdl">April.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Ball</span>, or <span class="smcap">Black Sage</span> (<i>Romona stachyoides</i>, <i>R. palmeri</i>,
- etc. = <i>Audibertia stachyoides</i>, etc., of the Botany of California) (California)</td>
- <td class="tdl">April.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Gallberry</span>, or <span class="smcap">Holly</span> (<i>Ilex glabra</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Manzanitas (<i>Arctostaphylos California</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Acacias (<i>Acacia</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Common</i>, <i>Black</i>, or <i>Yellow Locust</i> (<i>Robinia pseudacacia</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Persimmon (<i>Diospyros virginiana</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Edible Chestnut</span> (<i>Castanea dentata</i> = <i>C. sativa</i> var. <i>americana</i>
- of Gray's Manual)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">- 68 -</span>
- Chinquapin (<i>Castanea pumila</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Catalpas (<i>Catalpa</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Magnolias</span> (<i>Magnolia</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Rhododendrons, Rosebays, Azaleas (<i>Rhododendron</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-May-June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Mesquite</span> (<i>Prosopis juliflora</i>) (Texas and westward)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-July.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Cowpea</i> (<i>Vigna sinensis</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Apr.-Aug.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Tulip Tree</span>, or "<span class="smcap">Poplar</span>," (<i>Liriodendron tulipifera</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Mountain Laurel (<i>Kalmia latifolia</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Grapevines (<i>Vitis</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Raspberry</i> (<i>Rubus</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">China Berry, China Tree, or Pride of India (<i>Melia azedarach</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">WHITE SAGE (<i>Ramona polystachya</i> = <i>Audibertia polystachya</i> of the Botany
- of California) (California)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">SOURWOOD, or SORREL TREE (<i>Oxydendrum arboreum</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">SAW PALMETTO (<i>Serenoa serrulata</i>) (coasts of Georgia and Florida)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">HORSEMINT (<i>Monarda citriodora</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-July.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Banana</span> (<i>Musa sapientum</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">May-Sept.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Linden</span>, or "<span class="smcap">Linn</span>" (<i>Tilia americana</i>, <i>T. pubescens</i>, and <i>T. heterophylla</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Bed Bay</i> (<i>Persea borbonia</i> = <i>P. carolinensis</i> of Gray's Manual)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Indian Corn (<i>Zea mays</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June-July.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Cucumber</i>, <i>Melon</i>, <i>Squash</i>, <i>Pumpkin</i> (<i>Cucumis</i>, <i>Citrullus</i>,
- and <i>Cucurbita</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June-July.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">BLACKWOOD or BLACK MANGROVE (Aricennia nitida) (Florida)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June-July.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">ALFALFA (<i>Medicago sativa</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June-Aug.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Melilot</span>, <span class="smcap">Bokhara</span>, or <span class="smcap">Sweet Clover</span> (<i>Melilotus alba</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June-Aug.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Cotton</span> (<i>Gossypium herbaceum</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June-Aug.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Wild Buckwheat</span> (<i>Eriogonum fasciculatum</i>) (California)</td>
- <td class="tdl">June-Oct.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">CABBAGE PALMETTO (<i>Sabal palmetto</i>) (coasts of South Carolina.
- Georgia, and Florida)</td>
- <td class="tdl">July-Aug.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><i>Japan</i> or <i>Bush Clover</i> (<i>Lespedeza striata</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Aug.-Sept.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Bur Marigolds (<i>Bidens</i>, especially <span class="smcap">Spanish Needles</span>, <i>Bidens bipinnata</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Aug.-frost.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Wild Asters (<i>Aster</i>, especially <span class="smcap">Heath-like Aster</span>, <i>Aster ericoides</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Aug.-frost.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl">Golden-rods (<i>Solidago</i>)</td>
- <td class="tdl">Aug.-frost.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Blue Gum</span> and <span class="smcap">Red Gum</span> (<i>Eucalyptus globulus</i> and <i>E. rostrata</i>) (California).</td>
- <td class="tdl">Dec.-Mar.</td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">- 69 -</span></p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.<br />
-
-<span class="smaller">SPRING MANIPULATION.</span></h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>The first examination in the spring should be mainly for the purpose
-of ascertaining whether or not the honey stores have been exhausted.
-It should be early, and hence not so extended as to risk the loss of much
-warmth from the brood apartment. Merely lifting one edge of the quilt
-or, if the bottom board is a loose one, tipping the hive back so as to get
-a view in between the combs will often suffice. Should there not be at
-least the equivalent of two full frames of honey it is best to supply the
-deficiency at once. Without disturbing the brood full combs may be
-substituted at each side for the empty ones. If combs stored with
-honey and sealed over are not in reserve liquid honey or sugar sirup
-may be poured into empty ones and placed in the hives at night. A
-less dauby plan is to use one or more feeders directly over the brood
-nest, supplying several pounds of food at once. An excellent way is to
-give at one time all they need in the shape of a cake of bee candy, made
-by mixing fine sugar with just enough honey to produce a stiff dough.
-This cake of candy should be wrapped in heavy paper (half parchment,
-or such as is used for wrapping butter is good) and laid on top of the
-frames, after having punctured the paper in several places with a pencil
-or sharp stick to give the bees ready access. Two or three twigs or
-strips of wood laid across the frames before the cake is placed on them
-will also give the bees a better opportunity to reach the food.</p>
-
-<p>If the food be given in small quantities brood rearing will be encouraged
-and still greater supplies of food will be called for, rendering
-it absolutely necessary to give a large amount at once or continue
-the feeding until natural sources fully supply the needs of the bees and
-brood, otherwise both may starve. Three pounds of sugar dissolved in
-one quart of water will make a suitable sirup for spring feeding. Dry
-sugar may be used instead of sirup. The bees will liquefy it themselves
-if they have access to water. For stimulative purposes honey; s better
-than sugar, "strained honey" being better than extracted. This is
-because of the greater amount of pollen which the strained product
-contains, the pollen being highly nitrogenous, hence capable of building
-up muscular tissue. But if the liquid honey is one-half more in price
-per pound than sugar the latter would doubtless be the more economical,
-certainly so if a plentiful supply of good pollen in the combs or
-fresh from the fields can be had. Eye flour put in sunny places and
-sprinkled with honey to attract the bees will be collected until new
-pollen comes.</p>
-
-<p>When the weather has become sufficiently settled to render safe
-the inspection of the brood combs, or, in general, when the bees fly
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">- 70 -</span>
-the greater part of each clear day, the work of the queen may be
-inspected. Should the comb having the largest area of brood in it
-be toward one side of the hive it is best to locate it as near the center
-as may be, placing on either side successively those combs having
-smaller circles of brood and on each side of these the combs containing
-no brood, but well stored with pollen, while those having honey only
-will come still outside of these. The brood nest will then have an
-opportunity to develop equally in all directions. Empty combs are of
-little use at this time outside of the brood nest as thus arranged, and
-should be replaced by combs of honey if the latter is needed, or removed
-altogether. If the combs are well crowded with bees and the queen
-shows by her regular and compact placing of the brood, as well as by
-the quantity she seems to have, that she is vigorous and thus capable
-of accomplishing more than any ordinary brood nest will require of her
-at this time of the year, a frame filled with worker comb may be slipped
-into the center of the brood nest. This will be taken possession of
-immediately by the bees, cleaned and warmed up, whereupon the queen
-will soon have it filled with eggs. From time to time other combs may
-be added in the same manner. If cautiously and judiciously followed
-this plan, supplemented by liberal stores, will increase the brood area
-and eventually the population of the hive. But the utmost caution is
-needed, for if done too early cool weather may cause the bees to cluster
-more closely and result in the chilling of some part of the brood which
-has thus been spread. The very object sought is not only missed, but
-the loss of brood will prove a serious setback to the colony. The escape
-of any of the warmth generated by the bees, as also sudden changes
-in the weather, should be guarded against. Warm covering above and
-outer protection are therefore absolute necessities if the best results are
-to be attained. With favorable weather for the development of brood
-it is certain that stimulative feeding, if made necessary by the fact that
-the natural honey resources of the country will not alone bring the
-strength of the colony fairly up to the desired standard by the opening
-of the harvest, is to be begun six to seven weeks before the opening of
-the honey flow from which surplus is to be expected.</p>
-
-<p>If, however, this honey flow comes so early that it is likely to be preceded
-by weather unfavorable to the development of brood, it will be
-necessary to allow for this by beginning the stimulation even earlier, so
-that it may be done more gradually, and the greatest care will have to
-be taken to retain all the heat of the brood nest. Should the main flow
-be preceded by a lighter one, especially if the latter comes some weeks
-before the chief harvest, it may be important to watch the brood nest
-closely lest it becomes clogged with honey to the exclusion of brood,
-inclining the bees not to enter surplus receptacles placed above and
-causing the colony to be weak in numbers later in the season. This
-state of affairs can be easily avoided by the timely use of the honey
-extractor, since the brood combs, emptied of the honey which the
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">- 71 -</span>
-workers in an emergency have stored wherever they found vacant cells,
-are made available for the queen. Before the main harvest opens it may
-even be necessary in order to keep the combs filled with brood to feed
-back gradually this extracted honey or its equivalent; but by taking
-it away and returning it gradually the object sought will have been
-accomplished, namely, keeping the combs stocked with brood until the
-harvest is well under way, or as long as the larger population thus
-gained in the hive can be made available.</p>
-
-<p>It is in this getting workers ready for the early harvest&mdash;hives over
-flowing, as it were, with bees&mdash;that the skill of the apiarist is taxed to
-its utmost. The work properly begins with the close of the summer
-preceding the harvest, for the first steps toward successful wintering
-should be taken then, and unless wintered successfully the colony can
-not be put in shape to take full advantage of an early honey harvest.</p>
-
-<p>Good judgment in the application of the hints given in this chapter,
-with careful and frequent attention, will bring colonies to the chief
-spring or early summer flow of honey in good condition, with plenty
-of bees and with combs well stocked with brood, provided they have
-wintered well and have good queens.</p>
-
-
-<h3>TRANSFERRING.</h3>
-
-<p>If colonies have been purchased in box hives, it is advisable at the
-first favorable opportunity to get them into frame hives.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig53" style="width: 320px;">
- <img src="images/fig53.png" width="320" height="319" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 53.</span>&mdash;Transferring&mdash;drumming the bees from a box hive into a frame hire. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Early in the season&mdash;that is, in April or May in middle latitudes,
-before the brood nest has reached its greatest extension and while the
-hive contains the least honey&mdash;it is not a difficult matter to drive the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">- 72 -</span>
-bees from their combs, cut out the latter, and fit them into frames. If
-the combs thus fitted in are held temporarily in place in the frames,
-the bees, under whose care they should be placed at once, will fasten
-them securely in a few hours or days at most. To drive the bees from
-the box hive proceed as follows: Toward the middle of a pleasant day
-blow smoke into the hive to be transferred, and after the bees have
-been given a few minutes in which to lap up their fill of honey, invert
-the hive and place over the open end an empty box, or the frame hive
-itself, making whichever is used fit closely on the hive (<a href="#fig53">fig. 53</a>). By
-rapping continuously for some minutes on the hive the bees will be
-impelled to leave it and cluster in the upper box. A loud humming
-will denote that they are moving. The hive thus vacated may then be
-taken into a closed room and one side pried off to facilitate the removal
-of the combs. The box containing the bees is to be placed meanwhile
-on the spot originally occupied by the box hive, the bees being allowed
-to go in and out without restraint, only two precautions being necessary,
-namely, to shade the box well and provide for ventilation by
-propping it up from the bottom, leaving also, if possible, an opening at
-the top. When the combs have been fitted into frames, the hive containing
-them is placed on the original stand and the bees shaken from
-the box in front of it.</p>
-
-<p>In filling the frames with combs cut from a box hive, the largest and
-straightest sheets having the most sealed worker brood in them should
-be selected first and so cut that the frame will slip over them snugly,
-taking pains, as far as possible, to have the comb placed in the frame
-in the same position in which it was built, since most of the cells, instead
-of being horizontal, are inclined upward, the inclination of the deeper
-store cells being greatest. The comb, if not heavy, can be held in place
-temporarily by slender wire nails pushed through holes punched in the
-side and top bars. Before the introduction of wire nails the writer used
-long thorns pulled from thorn-apple trees, which served the purpose
-very well. In the case of combs heavy with honey or brood or pieced
-more or less it will be safer to use, in addition to a few wire nails, a pair
-or two of transferring sticks. These are simply slender strips of wood
-slightly longer than the depth of the frame and notched at each end.
-By placing such a stick on either side of the comb and winding annealed
-wire around the top and bottom ends so as to draw the sticks firmly
-against the surface of the combs the latter will be held securely in the
-frames. The midrib between the rows of cells should be pressed neither
-to one side nor the other; thus, if cells on one side are deeper than those
-on the other, they should be shaved down, unless the honey will be cut
-into too much, in which case the comb maybe allowed to project on one
-side until it has been fastened in the frame and the hive has been generally
-put in order by the bees, the point being not to force them to try
-to manage too much running honey at one time, lest robbing be induced.
-In many instances the comb when pressed into the frame will seem to
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">- 73 -</span>
-be so firm as not to need nails or sticks, but in the heat of the hive, and
-with the weight of the bees that will cluster on it to repair the cut edges
-and fasten them to the bars of the frame, unsupported combs are very
-apt to give way, creating disastrous confusion. Thus the sticks, nails,
-or their equivalent should always be used (<a href="#fig54">fig. 54</a>). All frames should
-be filled with perfectly straight combs so as to be interchangeable.
-With care in fitting in and some trimming and pressing into shape
-afterwards, fully three-fourths of the worker combs cut from box hives
-can be made into good, serviceable combs in frame hives. The process
-is much facilitated if such combs are used in the extractor during the
-first season or two after transferring.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig54" style="width: 352px;">
- <img src="images/fig54.png" width="352" height="196" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 54.</span>&mdash;Transferred comb and inserted queen cell. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Should the time be near the swarming season the combs will be so
-filled with brood and honey that the task will be much greater, and the
-transfer should be postponed until three weeks after the first swarm
-issues. The brood left by the old queen will have matured and issued
-from the cells by that time, and the young queen, if no accident has
-happened to her, will have begun laying; yet there will usually be only
-eggs, with perhaps a few very young larv&aelig;, present in the combs at this
-time, so that the cutting out and fitting of the latter into frames will
-not be as troublesome nor attended with so much waste as just before
-the swarm issued.</p>
-
-<p>Still another plan&mdash;one which it would not be best to employ before
-fairly warm weather has set in, but which will render the work of
-transferring the lightest&mdash;is to turn the box hive bottom upward and
-place on it the brood apartment of a frame hive, having in it frames
-filled with worker combs or with comb foundation, arranging at the
-same time to give the bees ready access from their combs to those above
-and no entrance to their hive except through the frame hive above.
-This can easily be done by making a temporary bottom board for the
-frame hive, with several holes through it, or with one large one about
-the size of the open end of the box hive. As soon as it is perceived
-that the queen has taken possession of the new combs&mdash;as she will be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">- 74 -</span>
-almost certain to do, especially if one of the combs placed above contains
-some brood&mdash;a piece of queen-excluding zinc placed over the opening
-between the two hives will keep her above, and three weeks later,
-when all the brood in the combs below has matured, the box hive may
-be removed and the combs transferred to frames, if worth using in
-this way; but if old or composed of drone cells or very irregular in
-shape these combs may be rendered into wax, after extracting any
-honey that may happen to be in them. Inverting the box hive will
-generally cause the bees to remove what honey they have stored in the
-combs. This honey will be utilized in building out the foundation
-placed in the added story, or, having these combs completed, the bees
-will store in them whatever remains. Should the queen fail to enter
-the superposed hive, the plan may be adopted of driving her with her
-workers into the added story, as described on page 72. When the
-lower combs have been nearly deserted it will be safe to assume that
-the queen has gone into the upper hive with the main force of workers,
-and the excluder zinc may be inserted.</p>
-
-
-<h3>QUEENLESSNESS IN SPRING.</h3>
-
-<p>The loss of a queen during winter or early spring can generally be
-discovered by noticing just at nightfall, after the first or second general
-flight, which colonies are restless and continue to buzz excitedly when
-the others are humming in a contented manner or have quieted down
-for the night. The workers of the queenless colony run in and out
-excitedly, searching over the front of the hive. Should it be opened
-they will not resent the intrusion, but, remaining on the combs, will at
-once set up a loud and prolonged buzzing. These symptoms become
-less pronounced from day to day. If a comb containing brood be
-inserted during this period it will be hailed with evident delight, manifested
-by the eager crowding of the bees from all sides toward it. A
-contented hum replaces the sound of mourning, and if young worker-larv&aelig;
-are present preparations, as described on pages 88-89, are begun
-at once to rear a queen. However, if much reduced in numbers the
-colony should be joined to one with a queen, or several queenless ones
-united. The latter may be smoked and simply shaken or brushed
-together. But bees that have been queenless long when added to those
-that have not yet missed their own queen will frequently be killed at
-once. The queen should therefore be taken from her own bees and
-caged for thirty-six to forty-eight hours in the hive which has previously
-been queenless, and her own bees added when she is released.
-(See page 94.) A board leaned against the front of the hive will cause
-the bees to note their change in location when they fly out and they
-will then easily find their new quarters when returning from their
-flight.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">- 75 -</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.<br />
-
-<span class="smaller">SECURING SURPLUS HONEY AND WAX.</span></h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>If the colonies of bees have been brought to the opening of a given
-honey flow with a powerful population recently hatched it will require
-no great skill to secure a good crop, granted, of course, that the flowers
-actually do secrete the nectar. In the ordinary course of events some
-colonies are likely to come through to the early harvest in good shape, but
-if all those contained in a large apiary are in prime order at this time
-it is good evidence of skill on the part of the attendant, this even though
-the weather and other circumstances may have favored his work. To
-secure a yield of surplus honey the part remaining to be done, if all
-goes well, is merely to put the surplus receptacles in place, admit the
-bees, and remove the combs when filled and sealed. But if swarming
-complications arise the whole of the bee keeper's skill and ingenuity
-may again be called into requisition to keep the forces together and
-storing in the surplus receptacles. Should the expected harvest not
-come&mdash;that is, should the flowers from which the yield is anticipated not
-secrete honey, or should they bloom when the weather would not permit
-the bees to fly&mdash;of course no amount of skill could make up the deficiency.
-In such a case all that can be done is to carry the colonies through to
-the next honey yield in good shape&mdash;to keep up (by feeding if necessary)
-the populousness of the colonies. The flow may begin suddenly or
-before it is looked for; it may be excellent for only a very short time, a
-day or two even, and be cut off short in the midst of its greatest abundance.
-Thus the skill lies in having the colonies ready for whatever may
-come and a force sufficient to store the whole season's surplus in a few
-days.</p>
-
-
-<h3>EXTRACTED HONEY.</h3>
-
-<p>One of the most important points in securing extracted honey is to
-have a large stock of surplus combs. These, with the strong colonies
-of bees to utilize them, and the honey extractor, are the great requisites
-of the producer of extracted honey. As fast as the bees can cover and
-utilize them, these combs are added to the colonies, one or two at a time
-from the opening of the season until the brood apartment is full. As
-soon as more combs than the lower story will hold are needed a second
-story filled with combs may be added, or but two or three may be placed
-in it at one side with a division board next to them. It is a good plan
-to sort over the combs of the brood apartment, removing several of the
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">- 76 -</span>
-less regular ones, or if all are alike as regards regularity and in having
-worker cells only, but some contain considerable honey and little
-brood, these are to be removed and the empty space filled in with good
-worker combs. The removed combs should be placed in the top story,
-which, if the weather and the strength of the colony permit, is to be filled
-out with combs at once. The strongest colonies will, of course, begin
-work first, and can often spare partly filled combs to be placed in the top
-stories of less populous colonies, thus encouraging the latter to begin
-work in the upper stories. It is safe to say that in general more than twice
-the yield of honey can be obtained from colonies supplied during the
-whole honey flow, with all the completed combs they are able to utilize,
-than can be expected from colonies that have to build all of the combs
-for their surplus while storing. Completed combs not being available,
-comb foundation in full sheets should be employed. During the early
-part of the harvest this will be drawn out very quickly and aid greatly
-in securing the honey which otherwise might be lost for want of store
-combs as fast as might be needed. During a fair yield the foundation
-will pay for itself the first season in the extra amount of honey, and the
-combs, properly cared for, can be used year after year&mdash;indefinitely, in
-fact&mdash;for extracting. The best of them should be picked out constantly
-to replace less desirable ones that may be found in the brood apartment,
-or to give to new swarms destined to produce extracted honey. Some
-prefer for the surplus cases frames half the depth of ordinary brood
-frames, finding them easier to manipulate.</p>
-
-<p>Whenever the combs of a top story are nearly filled, and before they
-are completely sealed, it may be lifted up and another story, filled with
-empty combs, placed between it and the brood apartment, and this may
-be continued until the end of the honey flow, and all may be left on the
-hive during the warm weather. It would, of course, be easier to add
-the new stories successively at the top&mdash;that is, above the partially filled
-surplus stories&mdash;and this plan works well as long as the honey flow is
-abundant, but when put on just as the yield slackens, even if but little,
-or when the weather is cool, the bees may refuse to begin work in the
-new super unless it is placed between the partially filled ones and the
-brood apartment. Leaving the filled top stories on the hives for some
-time permits the more complete evaporation of the moisture contained
-in the newly gathered honey, and by marking the stories the honey
-from a certain source, when the yield has been sufficient to get the
-combs filled and sealed, can be extracted by itself. If the supply of
-combs is insufficient to hold the whole amount gathered, it must then be
-extracted as fast as sealed, lest the bees, lacking ready cells in which to
-deposit their surplus as fast as gathered, hang idly about, or if space
-for new combs exists, only slowly provide these, losing meanwhile much
-of the harvest. When sealed the honey will generally be found fairly
-ripened, though it may improve by being stored in open buckets or cans
-in a dry, warm room.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">- 77 -</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig55" style="width: 426px;">
- <img src="images/fig55.png" width="426" height="541" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 55.</span>&mdash;Uncapping and extracting honey. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The process of extracting is extremely simple, and a little practice
-will enable an observing person to do it well (<a href="#fig55">fig. 55</a>). As indicated
-above, some judgment is required in the selection of combs, regard
-being had to the future condition of the colony. The filled comb-, as
-fast as removed, are placed in a light case the size of a hive, or a tin can
-made specially for the purpose, covered closely to prevent the access
-of robbers, and taken to the extracting room, which should be bee-proof.
-It is not always necessary to use such care in excluding all bees, but
-the novice should practice it until he learns to distinguish by the actions
-of the bees when such precautions may be dispensed with. Whenever
-possible the stories containing surplus honey should be lifted up and
-honey boards containing bee escapes slipped between them and the
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">- 78 -</span>
-brood apartment early in the morning of the day before the extracting
-is to be done, in case the bees are still gathering, otherwise the night
-before will do. The combs will then be free from bees, or nearly so,
-when the operator wishes to remove them, and will contain no honey
-gathered within twenty-four hours, the last day's gathering having also
-been ripened considerably during the night preceding the insertion of
-the escapes. When the queen has not been restricted in her laying to
-the lower story by means of excluders, this plan of freeing the combs
-of bees will fail in case the escapes are placed on lower stories above
-which the brood and the queen may be. The only way then will be to
-remove the combs one by one, after smoking the bees to quiet them,
-and shake or brush off the latter into the top story. Italians can not
-be shaken off unless their bodies are pretty well filled with honey, but
-they may be safely brushed off after smoking. For this a single large
-feather from the left wing of a turkey is best. Other races can be
-shaken off after smoking. Eastern bees should never be brushed from
-the combs when extracting, nor at any time unless they are gorged
-with honey. They can all be shaken off easily, and will need less smoke
-than the European races.</p>
-
-<p>When much extracting is to be done, top stories of hives or light
-cases with cloth covers, weighted with a rod sewed into the loose edge,
-may be used to hold the full combs as fast as taken from the hives, and
-these, placed on a wheelbarrow, cart, or car, can be easily transported to
-the extracting room. The uncapping knife, kept in hot water when
-not in use, is passed rapidly under the capping of the sealed combs,
-the point of it being used to reach depressed surfaces. The loosened
-cappings drop into a sieve resting over a pan, or into the upper part of
-a can specially designed to receive cappings. The small amount of
-honey removed with the cappings drains through the strainer and is
-drawn off below. The uncapped combs are placed in the extractor at
-once. As the cells generally slant upward more or less, especially
-those built for store cells outside the brood nest, the throwing out of
-the honey is facilitated by placing each comb in such a manner as to
-bring the top bar at the right hand, the basket being revolved in the
-most natural way&mdash;that is, from right to left. A little practice will
-enable the operator to note the speed required in order to free the combs
-entirely from honey, which will depend, of course, upon the consistency
-of the honey and the length of time combs are revolved. While it is,
-in general, best to avoid extracting from combs containing brood, cases
-will arise where it is necessary. If the brood is sealed, there will, be
-less liability of injuring it than when open cells containing larv&aelig; are
-placed in the extractor; but a moderate degree of speed continued
-somewhat longer will usually bring the honey out without disturbance
-to the immature bees. Three persons can work together very advantageously&mdash;one
-to remove the surplus cases or combs from the hives,
-free them of their bees, and bring them into the extracting room, where
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">- 79 -</span>
-two assistants uncap and extract the honey. If the bees are not gathering
-honey and are therefore prone to rob, the person who removes the
-combs from the hives should be assisted by an active boy who can
-cover hives or cases quickly or lift the latter when necessary. The
-combs when emptied may be returned at once to the hives if the bees
-are still engaged in storing. The slight damage which they have sustained
-under the uncapping knife or in the extractor will soon be
-repaired; indeed, with a little experience the uncappers will be able to
-smooth and trim irregular combs in such a way as to render them
-straighter after they have been through the extractor. It is particularly
-desirable, in order to straighten the combs of transferred colonies
-and get them in good working trim, that they be run for extracted
-honey during the first year or two; moreover, a good yield of extracted
-honey is more likely to be obtained from recently transferred colonies
-than comb honey, especially if the manipulators are beginners in the
-work.</p>
-
-<p>When the extracting is done after the close of the gathering period,
-the greatest care should be taken not to start robbing. The surplus
-combs should be returned to the hives just before nightfall, and not
-even a taste of sweets of any kind should be left exposed. The object
-in returning the combs is to have them cleaned up, and also to have
-them under the protection of the bees until cool weather puts a stop to
-the destructive work of wax-moth larv&aelig;. When sharp frosts occur, the
-surplus combs may be removed from the hives and placed in a dry, cold
-room. An open loft (if not infested with mice or if the combs are protected
-from the latter) is a good place, and it is much better to place
-the combs so they do not touch each other.</p>
-
-
-<h3>COMB HONEY.</h3>
-
-<p>The general directions given in the preceding chapter on spring manipulation
-to secure populous colonies apply as well to those designed
-for comb honey as to those which are to produce extracted honey. If any
-difference is to be observed it is even more important that the former
-be brought to the opening of the honey flow with the brood combs compactly
-filled with developing bees to the exclusion of honey, than that
-the latter should be so; and colonies not strong enough to enter sections
-readily, if at all, may still be utilized, and often do fairly well in the
-production of extracted honey.</p>
-
-<p>The old-fashioned surplus boxes holding 25 to 30 pounds are regarded
-quite as relics of the past by those who use frame hives and produce comb
-honey in fine marketable shape, and even if for home consumption the
-pound (<a href="#fig50">fig. 50</a>) and 12-pound sections are always preferred, since they
-are so cheap, permit the use of comb foundation, and are in neat shape
-and of convenient size for the table.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">- 80 -</span></p>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig56" style="width: 258px;">
- <img src="images/fig56.png" width="258" height="189" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 56.</span>&mdash;One-piece V-grooved section. (From Gleanings.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Section holders (<a href="#fig57">fig. 57</a>) with sections folded and in place, each section
-supplied with thin foundation, preferably full sheets, but at least
-guides, should be in readiness before the opening of the harvest. Forty
-to fifty sections for each hive should be prepared. One-piece sections, if
-bought in the flat, should be placed in the cellar for two or three days
-before folding. If the section back of the V-joints is then moistened
-slightly they can be set up rapidly without breakage. Sections made
-of white poplar are by far the
-neatest looking and do not cost
-much if any more than basswood,
-so that bee keepers
-might show their disapproval
-of the wholesale destruction of
-our basswood or linden timber
-by resolutely refusing to buy
-sections made of that wood.
-The four-piece sections, if well
-made, are preferable to the one-piece.
-The latter do not keep
-their shape as firmly as the
-four-piece sections, which are made with lock joints at all the corners.</p>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig57" style="width: 263px;">
- <img src="images/fig57.png" width="263" height="193" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 57.</span>&mdash;Super with sections and section holders in place:
-A, super; D, separator; E, sections; F, follower; G,
-wedge. (From Gleanings.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The foundation for sections should be the quality known as "thin surplus"
-or, preferably, if full sheets be used, "extra-thin surplus." These
-grades are made of selected, light-colored wax, and 1 pound furnishes
-full sheets for 100 to 125 standard sections (4&frac14; by 4&frac14; inches). The
-sheets should be cut no larger than 3&frac34; inches square. These will take
-up about three-sixteenths of an inch in fastening, which will leave nearly
-one-half inch space between
-the lower edge and the bottom
-piece of the section and
-allow the foundation to stretch
-while being drawn out. This
-is necessary, otherwise the
-partially completed comb will
-bulge as soon as it reaches
-the bottom of the section. In
-cutting foundation either for
-sections or frames one edge&mdash;the
-one to be attached&mdash;should
-be perfectly straight.
-To secure this not more than
-six to ten sheets (depending
-on their thickness) should be laid in one pile, and a sharp, thin-bladed
-knife, as well as a straight rule, used. Two or three piles may be laid
-side by side and with a rule long enough to reach across them all a
-dozen to thirty sheets can be cut at a time. Dipping the knife in warm
-water facilitates the work.</p>
-
-<p>The sheets are fastened in the section by the use of one of the
-machines mentioned on page 52. They secure the wax to the wood by
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">- 81 -</span>
-pressure combined in some instances with heat. Fig. 40 shows one of
-these. The simplest form consists merely of a sliding lever hinged to a
-block. It is intended to be fastened by means of screws to a table or
-bench, and is then ready for use when the lever is moistened with honey,
-starch water, or soapsuds along the edge which is to touch the wax
-sheets. The foundation is laid flat on the top piece of the section in
-such a way that the straight edge passes the center line one-eighth of
-an inch, and the whole is then slipped under the lever. The latter is
-brought down with a sliding motion toward the operator and at the
-same time the foundation is bent up at right angles to the top piece.
-If the wax is slightly soft it will adhere firmly. A heated brick placed
-before the pile of starters will keep the edges soft enough if the work
-is done in a moderately warm room.</p>
-
-<p>Starters half to three-fourths inch in width are sometimes used at
-the bottoms of sections to secure firm attachment of combs there.
-Bees incline to gnaw these bottom starters away unless the top pieces
-of foundation reach within one-half inch of them. Top starters an
-inch or less in width may be used alone as comb guides when it is
-desirable to avoid great outlay for foundation.</p>
-
-<p>The use of strips of tin or wood as separators (<a href="#fig57">fig. 57, D</a>) between the
-sections insures straight combs with smooth surfaces, thus convenient
-to handle and ship.</p>
-
-<p>The sections furnished with starters or full sheets of foundation are
-slipped with separators into supers and piled away ready for use as soon
-as the harvest opens.</p>
-
-<h3>PUTTING ON SECTIONS.</h3>
-
-<p>It is better not to put surplus honey receptacles on the hive until the
-honey flow actually begins, as, of course, no work will be done in them
-until then. Moreover, all the heat is needed in the brood apartment
-during the early part of the season. The bees might also become discouraged
-by the large amount of empty space and might not begin
-work in it at all before swarming. The sections would also be soiled by
-the bees crawling over them and daubing them with propolis.</p>
-
-<p>The bee keeper who is familiar with the honey-producing flora of his
-locality will note the development of the flower buds of any plant from
-which he expects a crop and will be able to judge accurately by a glance
-at the colony when sections are needed. The beginner will do well to
-consult carefully the list of honey-producing plants given in the chapter
-on "Bee pasturage," and also endeavor by inquiry in his neighborhood
-to ascertain what other sources, if any, are within the reach of his bees.
-The usual time of blooming of all principal honey plants should be
-noted, and the management to secure populous colonies having been
-in accordance with the directions given in Chapter VII on "Spring
-manipulation," the opening of the first blossoms of any one of the
-important honey yielders should be the signal for placing supers with
-sections on all hives intended for comb honey production. Should
-these indications not be sufficient, there is still another which no one
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">- 82 -</span>
-could mistake. It is to examine the tops of the brood combs from time
-to time and note when the store cells between the brood and the top
-bar are being made deeper by added wax. The fresh, whitened appearance
-which such combs present when viewed from above readily distinguishes
-them from the yellow or dark combs wholly built during
-previous seasons. The lower edges of partially completed combs will
-also show additions at the same time.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig58" style="width: 332px;">
- <img src="images/fig58.png" width="332" height="331" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 58.</span>&mdash;Dadant-Quinby form of Langstroth hive,
-elevated from bottom board and slid back for ventilation in summer.
-(Redrawn from Langstroth.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>It having been determined that the time to put on sections has
-arrived, the quilt used over the frames is removed and the super, with
-section holders, sections, and separators in place, is set over the frames.
-A clean enameled or carriage-cloth quilt should be laid over the tops of
-the sections, if these are open above, and this weighted down with a
-board which has been clamped to prevent warping. At this time the
-flight hole should be full width and the hive protected from the direct
-rays of the sun during the hotter portions of the day. With small,
-single-walled hives, such as hold eight combs or less, it may be necessary,
-if the hives are crowded with bees, to raise them slightly from the
-bottom board or slide them back, so as to give small openings at the
-rear. Mr. Simmins's plan of placing below the brood nest a hive chamber
-with starters only in the frames permits the bees to avoid clustering
-too compactly and yet to keep up their work inside during extremely
-hot weather. Ventilation and shading of hives assist greatly toward
-the prevention of swarming, and having bred the colony up until it is
-sufficiently strong to take advantage of the harvest, and having reached
-the opening of that harvest, it is desirable by all means to keep the
-forces together as long as the flow lasts. (Fig. 58.)</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">- 83 -</span></p>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig59" style="width: 280px;">
- <img src="images/fig59.png" width="280" height="228" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 59.</span>&mdash;Langstroth hive with combined surplus case and
-shipping crate. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The supers should be removed as fast as fairly filled. The bees are
-slow in sealing over the outside sections; therefore it is better not to
-lose time waiting for these to be completely capped, but replace the
-whole with a new set. Some prefer to lift up the super when about
-three-fourths completed and place the empty one below&mdash;that is, between
-it and the brood chamber.
-The objection to this plan is
-that by the time the sections
-placed above have been fully
-completed they will have
-more or less propolis daubed
-on them and the combs will
-be considerably soiled by the
-bees running over them. A
-better plan to secure the
-completion of the outside
-sections is, after removing a
-number of supers, to select
-enough incomplete Sections
-to fill one super, Which is
-then placed on a strong colony for completion, or the partly filled sections
-may be used in the middle of new supers as bait sections to induce
-the bees to cluster and begin work in them at once.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig60" style="width: 254px;">
- <img src="images/fig60.png" width="254" height="246" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 60.</span>&mdash;Honey shipping-cases. (From Gleanings.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Notwithstanding such precautions for the prevention of swarming as
-shading the hives, ventilation, having only young queens, and the
-removal of the outside combs,
-substituting for them frames of
-foundations or starters near the
-center of the brood nest, swarms
-will sometimes issue, especially
-from hives devoted to comb-honey
-production. The best
-plan in this case is to hive the
-swarm in a clean new hive
-whose frames have been filled
-with starters and place this on
-the stand of the parent colony,
-moving the latter to a new
-position or more feet away.
-The swarm in its new quarters
-will then be joined by the rest
-of the field workers from the parent hive, and the whole tone, reunited
-and having for some days no brood to care for, will constitute a strong
-colony for storing honey. The super of partly finished sections should
-be lifted, bees and all, from the parent hive and placed on the brood
-chamber of the new colony.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">- 84 -</span></p>
-
-<p>The supers should be promptly removed at the close of the honey
-harvest, honey boards with bee escapes in them being used to free
-them from bees, as described under the head of "Extracting." If the
-gathering season for the year has also ended, an examination of the
-brood apartment should be made to determine whether feeding is necessary,
-either to prolong brood rearing or for winter stores.</p>
-
-
-<h3>PRODUCTION OF WAX.</h3>
-
-<p>The progressive apiarist of the present time does not look upon the
-production of wax in so great a proportion compared with his honey
-yield as did the old-time box-hive bee keeper. The latter obtained much
-of his honey for the market by crushing the combs and straining it out,
-leaving the crushed combs to be melted up for their wax. Before the
-use of supers late swarms and many colonies quite heavy in honey were
-smothered by the use of sulphur; the light ones because their honey
-supply would not bring them through the winter, and the very heavy
-ones because of the rich yield in honey. Frequent losses of bees in
-wintering and through queenlessness gave more combs for melting, as
-without frame hives; honey extractors, or comb-foundation machines,
-the vacated combs were not often utilized again. The wax from the
-pressed combs was all marketed, since there could be but little home
-use for it.</p>
-
-<p>The bee keeper of to-day, after having removed the honey from the
-combs by centrifugal force, returns them, but slightly injured, to be
-refilled by the bees, and at the end of the season these combs are stored
-away for use in successive years, or he secures the surplus, also apart
-from the brood, in neat sectional boxes, to be marketed as stored&mdash;that
-is, without cutting.</p>
-
-<p>The wax must therefore come from the cappings of combs where
-extracted honey is produced, from occasional broken comb, bits of drone
-comb that are cut out to be replaced by worker comb, from unfinished
-and travel-stained sections from which the honey has been extracted,
-or from old brood combs that need to be replaced. Since the price per
-pound of extracted honey is usually not less than one-third and that
-of comb honey one-half the price of wax, and it has already been indicated
-(p. 28) that some 12 to 15 pounds of honey may in general be
-safely reckoned as necessary to produce 1 pound of comb, it can readily
-be seen that it is much more profitable to turn the working force, in so
-far as possible, to the production of honey rather than wax, taking only
-as much wax as can be produced without lowering the yield of honey;
-and what wax is taken is practically turned into honey the following
-year, for it is made into comb foundation, which, judiciously used,
-increases in turn the season's yield of honey.</p>
-
-<p>Wax being so much more valuable than honey, it behooves the bee
-keeper to save even the smallest pieces of comb; but during warm
-weather they must not be left long or they will serve as breeding places
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">- 85 -</span>
-for the wax moth, unless fumigated with burning sulphur or exposed to
-the fumes of bisulphide of carbon two or three times each month until
-no more eggs of the moth remain.</p>
-
-<p>The old way of rendering wax was to put the combs into a sack made
-of some open stuff', weight this down in a kettle of water, and boil for
-some time. The wax rose, and when cold was removed in a cake.
-This process, besides being dauby, often yielded inferior wax&mdash;burned,
-water-soaked, or filled with settlings.</p>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig61" style="width: 270px;">
- <img src="images/fig61.png" width="270" height="241" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 61.</span>&mdash;The Boardman solar wax extractor.
-(From Gleanings.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The most approved method of rendering wax is, for moderate-sized
-apiaries at least, by means of the solar wax extractor (<a href="#fig61">fig. 61</a>), already
-mentioned under the head of "Implements." Its management is very
-simple. The machine is placed in the sunniest spot in or near the
-apiary, and all of the wax cappings, after having been drained of honey
-or worked over by the bees, as well as bits of comb, are thrown into
-the receiver above the wire
-strainer, the glass is adjusted,
-and the whole is turned so that
-the direct rays of the sun enter.
-More bits of comb are added
-from time to time during the
-day. The melted wax trickles
-through the strainer and collects
-in a tin placed at the
-lower edge of the tank or
-melter. The cake is removed
-each morning, it having cooled
-and contracted during the
-night sufficiently to cause the
-mass to cleave readily from
-the vessel.</p>
-
-<p>The solar wax extractor can
-be used during four or five months of the year in the more northern
-States, and for a longer time in the South. To render wax at other
-times steam heat is best. When available a jet from a boiler may
-be connected with a barrel or vessel containing the combs and a large
-amount rendered in a short time. In smaller apiaries a steam extractor
-for use over a boiler on the stove may be employed (<a href="#fig30">fig. 30</a>). The
-manner of using these extractors is simple. The cappings and bits
-of comb to be rendered are placed in an inside basket made of perforated
-metal. Upon placing this over a water boiler, into which it
-tits closely, the steam rises through holes in the bottom of the upper
-can and readily penetrates the mass. The melted wax runs out
-through a spout at the lower edge of the upper can and is caught in a
-pan partly filled with warm water. As fast as the mass in the perforated
-can settles away more bits of comb are added. The dark residue
-remaining is composed of cocoons, pollen, and accidental impurities.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">- 86 -</span>
-These may, however, contain considerable wax which they have
-absorbed as it melted. This waste may be avoided in a great measure
-if the combs are broken up and soaked in rain water for twenty-four
-hours before melting.</p>
-
-<p>Cakes of wax, if designed for the comb-foundation manufacturer,
-will be acceptable just as they come from the wax extractor, but if for
-the general market they should all be remelted in order to purify them.
-This must be done with care or the wax will be seriously injured. Iron
-vessels will discolor it, and as well or spring water frequently contains
-iron, the use of rain water, whenever it is to come in contact with the
-melted wax, will be found more desirable. It is best to melt the wax
-slowly, for if heated too rapidly the particles become disaggregated
-and take up a certain quantity of water, the mass loses its luster, and
-becomes pale and granular. In this condition its market value is low.
-Remelting slowly, especially in a solar wax extractor, will restore it.</p>
-
-<p>These difficulties in purifying wax may be avoided if it is melted in
-a tin or copper vessel and in a water bath, that is, the melter is to stand
-within a larger vessel containing sufficient water to surround the former.
-As much wax as possible should be melted at one time, and when convenient
-the inner can is left standing in the water, so that the wax
-remains liquid some time, permitting the impurities to settle. These
-may be shaved from the bottom of the cake and remelted if they contain
-much wax.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">- 87 -</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.<br />
-
-<span class="smaller">REARING AND INTRODUCING QUEENS.</span></h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>So much of the bee keeper's success depends upon the strength of
-his colonies, and this in turn upon the character of the queens heading
-these colonies, that he needs to be well informed as to what constitutes
-a really good queen and how to produce such, and, having this knowledge,
-it will be profitable to be constantly on the alert to see that all
-colonies are supplied with the best queens procurable. With a queen
-from a poor strain of bees, or an unprolific one from a good strain, a
-colony, even in a season of abundant honey secretion, will give little or
-no return, while the seasons are not frequent during which one given
-a fair start and having a large, prolific queen of an active honey-producing
-strain can not collect a fair surplus beyond its own needs.
-Admitting this, it will be plain to all that queen bees differ proportionately
-in value as much as horses or cattle, and the keeper of bees who
-does not know how to select and produce the best can not be called a
-bee-master.</p>
-
-<p>When bees swarm they generally leave a number of sealed queen
-cells in the parent colony. With blacks and Italians there are usually
-6 to 10; rarely more than a dozen. Carniolans generally construct
-about two dozen, but under favorable conditions can be induced to
-build 75 to 100 good cells at a time. Fig. 62 represents a comb from a
-hive of Carniolans which had built at one time 70 queen cells.
-Cyprians usually make 30 or 40 queen cells, but may greatly exceed
-this number under the best conditions, while Syrians nearly always
-exceed it, sometimes even building as many as 200; and the writer
-has seen 350 cells constructed at one time by a single colony of bees
-in Tunis. It might be thought that where so many were constructed
-only a small proportion of them would produce good queens. Such is not
-the case, however; for in general a much larger proportion of the cells
-formed by these eastern races produce well developed queens. But in
-all hives some queen cells are undersized. This may be because they
-are located near the bottom or sides, where space for full development
-is lacking, but in many instances it arises from the fact that they are
-formed last, and larv&aelig; that are really too old to make full sized, perfect
-queens have to be used. These smaller cells are usually smooth on the
-outside and show thin walls. In selecting cells only the large, slightly
-tapering ones, an inch or more in length and straight, should be saved.
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">- 88 -</span>
-Yet good queens may frequently be obtained from crooked cells, in case
-the latter are large and extend well into the midrib of the comb.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig62" style="width: 600px;">
- <img src="images/fig62.png" width="600" height="327" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 62.</span>&mdash;Comb showing worker brood and queen cells.
-(Original&mdash;from photograph.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>When a laying queen is removed from a colony during the working
-season, eggs and larv&aelig; of all ages are left behind. As indicated in
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">- 89 -</span>
-Chapter II, any egg which has been fertilized may be made to develop
-into a queen. So also larva? from such eggs may, up to the third day,
-be taken to rear from without danger of producing inferior queens.
-Cells in which to produce queens will be started over some of these
-larv&aelig; on the edges of the combs, or, by tearing down partitions and
-thus enlarging the lower portion of the cell, a beginning is obtained
-for a queen cell. Fig. 63 shows such queen cells constructed over eggs
-or larv&aelig; originally designed to produce workers. They are known
-as emergency cells. The young larva is at once liberally supplied
-with a secretion, which is probably a production of the glands of the
-head, and which analyses have shown to be rich in nitrogen and fatty
-elements, being similar to that given at first to the worker larva.
-This is continued throughout the whole feeding period, while, as Dr. Von
-Planta has shown, in the case of the workers and drones, after the third
-day the proportion of the constituents of the larval food is so changed
-that they receive much less albumen
-and fat and more sugar. It is chiefly
-the influence of this food which causes
-the larva that would have developed
-as a worker to become a queen. The
-latter has somewhat changed instincts,,
-and its reproductive system
-is developed, instead of abortive as
-in the case of the worker. The size of
-the cell, and, to a less extent perhaps,
-its position, no doubt influence
-this development, but the food seems
-to be the main factor, for small cells
-built horizontally, if their larv&aelig; are
-supplied with the food designed for
-royal larv&aelig;, will be found to contain
-queens, and frequently these queens,
-even though small, are quite prolific,
-and show in all respects the instincts
-of a queen.</p>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig63" style="width: 231px;">
- <img src="images/fig63.png" width="231" height="308" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 63.</span>&mdash;Queen cells and worker brood in various
-stages. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>It is believed by most queen raisers that in order to secure the best
-development of the young queens a colony should be allowed to build
-but a few cells at a time. That their belief is not well founded is shown
-by the facts just cited concerning the large numbers of well-developed
-queen cells which produce also perfect and prolific queens. It lies
-within the skill of the bee-master to establish conditions favoring the
-production of food for the queen larv&aelig;&mdash;the so called "royal jelly"&mdash;and
-this having been brought about, there need be no hesitancy in permitting
-the construction of hundreds of queen cells in one colony if
-such numbers are needed.</p>
-
-<p>It was formerly the plan, after removing the queen from a colony in
-order to secure queen cells, to trim the lower edges of the combs containing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">- 90 -</span>
-eggs or very young larv&aelig;, or to cut out strips of comb about an
-inch wide just below worker cells containing eggs or just-hatched larv&aelig;.
-This practice gave the bees space in which to build perfect full-sized
-cells, but it had certain disadvantages. Good worker combs were
-mutilated, often quite ruined, in order to secure the construction of the
-cells and also in cutting out the latter. Cells so formed are often in
-groups so close together that they can not be separated without injury
-to numbers of them, necessitating, if desirable to save all, a close watch,
-or at least frequent examination, for hours or even days, since all the
-queens are not likely to emerge at the same time.</p>
-
-<p>To remedy this Mr. O. H. Townsend, of Michigan, devised a plan which
-is described in Gleanings in Bee Culture for July, 1880 (Vol. VIII, p. 322).
-It consists in cutting combs whose cells contain eggs or freshly hatched
-larv&aelig; into narrow strips and pinning or sticking these on the sides of
-brood combs in such a manner that the cells containing the eggs or larv&aelig;
-from which queens are desired shall open downward. Mr. Townsend
-removed the larv&aelig; from some of the cells, believing that he secured
-better developed queens by limiting the number, and also because he
-could then cut them out more easily for insertion in separate hives. In
-the succeeding number of Gleanings (August, 1880), Mr. J. M. Brooks,
-of Indiana, illustrated a plan for securing even greater regularity.
-This consists in shaving off the cells on one side down nearly to the
-midrib of each strip of worker comb containing the eggs or larv&aelig;
-selected to rear queens from, and then sticking these strips on the undersides
-of horizontal bars nailed in ordinary comb frames. Mr. Henry
-Alley, in his work on queen rearing, published in 1883, recommends
-sticking the prepared strips, shallow cells downward, on the lower edges
-of combs which have been trimmed so as to round downward. This
-leaves plenty of space for the full development of queen cells, the eggs
-or larv&aelig; in alternate cells having been removed as in the plans previously
-mentioned. All conditions being favorable, many cells conveniently
-located are thus secured, and if the exact age of the eggs or just-hatched
-larv&aelig; has been noted the time the young queens will emerge
-may be known beforehand, so that preparation can be made for them.
-Nuclei&mdash;small clusters of bees containing a quart to two quarts&mdash;are to
-be placed in separate hives and given combs, emerging brood, and a
-supply of food, and to each of these a mature cell is to be given. The
-nuclei thus prepared may be confined to their hives with wire cloth
-and placed in a cellar for two or three days, and when set out, just at
-dusk (p. 117), the bees will adhere to their new location. Full colonies,
-whose queens it is desired to replace, may also be made queenless about
-two or three days beforehand, and when mature the cells inserted
-one each in these. In cutting out the cell a small piece of comb,
-triangular shaped, 1&frac12; to 2 inches long and about 1&frac12; inches broad at
-the top, is to be left attached to it whenever practicable, since it will
-then be easy to insert it in one of the combs of the queenless colony
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">- 91 -</span>
-or nucleus, by cutting out a corresponding triangular piece. Fig. 54
-shows a queen cell inserted in a brood comb. It is safest not to cut
-the cells out until they are within twenty-four to forty-eight hours of
-their full maturity. In case a nucleus or colony has not been queenless
-long enough to make it ready to accept a queen cell, the latter
-may be placed in a cell protector made of wire cloth or of a spiral coil
-of wire and then inserted between the central combs of the hive. The
-lower end only of the protector is open, so that the upper portion of the
-cell&mdash;the part easily bitten open by the workers&mdash;is wholly covered.</p>
-
-<p>Queen nurseries on the general plan devised many years ago by Dr.
-Jewell Davis, of Illinois, are used to hold surplus maturing cells and
-the young queens, after emerging, for which colonies or nuclei are not
-ready at once. These nurseries consist of compartments about 1&frac12; inches
-square, made of wood and wire cloth, and so arranged that they may
-be suspended in the center of a colony of bees, a frame being filled with
-them for this purpose. Each compartment contains a bit of soft candy
-to sustain the life of the queen in case the bees fail to feed her. Spiral
-coils of wire somewhat longer than those used as queen-cell protectors
-have been arranged with a metal cup for food, so that, in principle,
-they are the same as the compartments of the Davis queen nurseries
-and are used for the same purpose.</p>
-
-<p>The young queens will usually mate when from five to seven days
-old, flying from the hive for this purpose. If any undesirable drones are
-in the apiary they may be restrained from flying by means of excluder
-zinc over the hive entrances, permitting only workers to pass in and
-out. In a day or two after mating the queen generally commences to
-deposit eggs, and is then ready for use in the apiary or to be sent away
-as an "untested queen." To enable her to rank as a "tested queen" it
-will be necessary to keep her three weeks or a little longer in order to
-see her worker progeny and ascertain by their markings that the queen
-has mated with a drone of her own race. As both tested and untested
-queens are usually raised from the same mothers&mdash;the best in the given
-apiary&mdash;either may be obtained for honey production; but for use as
-breeders only tested queens which have been approved in every way
-should be purchased, unless, indeed, the purchaser prefers to buy several
-untested queens, which can usually be obtained for the price of one
-approved and selected breeder, and do his own testing, trusting that
-among them one or more may prove valuable as a breeding queen.
-"Warranted queens" are untested queens sent out with a guaranty
-that they have mated purely. If few or no drones of another race are
-in the vicinity of a breeder, he is tolerably safe in doing this. The
-proper plan is for the breeder to keep a record of the brood of all such
-queens and replace such as show that they have mismated.</p>
-
-<p>Exact records of the ages of all queens should be kept, and notes on
-the qualities of their progeny are desirable, while in some instances
-particulars as to pedigrees are valuable.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">- 92 -</span></p>
-
-
-<h3>MAILING QUEENS.</h3>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig64" style="width: 236px;">
- <img src="images/fig64.png" width="236" height="109" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 64.</span>&mdash;The Benton cage for transporting a queen
-and attendants by mail. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Queens are now transported nearly always by mail, and sent to all
-parts of the United States, and even to distant foreign countries,
-the cage used almost exclusively being the one shown in <a href="#fig64">fig. 64</a> or
-some slightly modified form of the
-same. No attempt was ever made
-to patent this cage, and as the
-construction is obvious from the
-figure given here, anyone who
-desires can make and use it. The
-food usually employed in these
-cages by queen breeders is a soft
-candy recommended many years
-ago as bee food by the Rev. Mr. Scholz, of Germany. The Scholz
-candy is made by kneading fine sugar and honey together until a
-stiff dough has been formed. Some think it an improvement to heat
-the honey before adding the sugar. The Viallon shipping candy
-consists of four parts of brown sugar and twelve of white sugar,
-with two tablespoonfuls of honey and one of flour to each pound of the
-mixed sugars; these, with a little water added, form a batter, which
-is boiled until it commences to thicken, when it is poured into the food
-compartment of the mailing cage. Mr. I. R. Good recommended for
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">- 93 -</span>
-use in queen cages a mixture of granulated sugar and extracted honey;
-hence this candy has since been known as the Good candy. The bees
-fed on it leave loose granules of sugar in the cage, and these becoming
-moist often daub the whole interior in such a way as to cause the death
-of queen and workers. It is therefore not adapted to long journeys.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig65" style="width: 366px;">
- <img src="images/fig65.png" width="366" height="362" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 65.</span>&mdash;Caging a queen for mailing. (Original&mdash;from photograph.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The food for the journey having been placed in the end opposite that
-containing the ventilating holes, a bit of comb foundation is pressed
-down over it to assist in retaining the moisture, the food compartment
-having also previously been coated with wax for the same purpose.
-The cover, with perhaps a bit of wire cloth between it and the bees to
-give greater security, together with the address and a 1-cent stamp,
-completes the arrangement for a queen and eight to twelve attendant
-workers to take a journey of 3,000 miles. A special postal regulation
-admits them to the mails at merchandise rates (I cent per ounce). For
-transportation to distant countries of the Pacific a larger cage and
-more care are necessary to success. A recent estimate by one of the
-apiarian journals places the number of queens sold and thus transported
-in the United States annually at 20,000.</p>
-
-
-<h3>INTRODUCING QUEENS.</h3>
-
-<p>Most of the mailing cages are arranged so that when received the
-removal of the wooden lid and also of a small cork at one end will permit
-the bees to eat their way out when assisted by those of the hive to which
-the queen is to be given. The cage is laid, with the wire cloth down,
-on the frames of a colony that has previously been made queenless.
-In twenty-four to forty-eight hours the queen will usually have been
-liberated, but it is safer not to disturb the combs for four or five days
-lest the bees, on the watch for intruders when their combs are exposed,
-regard the new queen as such, and, crowding about her in a dense ball,
-sting her instantly or smother her.</p>
-
-<p>Colonies having only young bees accept queens readily, so that when
-a swarm has issued and the parent stock has been removed to a new
-stand the time for queen introduction is propitious. During a great
-honey flow queens are accepted without much question, if any at all.
-They may at such times nearly always be safely run in just at dark by
-lifting one corner of the cover or quilt of a queenless hive and driving
-the bees back with smoke. The new queen, having been kept without
-food and away from all other bees for a half hour previously, is then
-slipped in and the hive left undisturbed for several days. This and
-similar methods of direct introduction without cages, having been
-developed and advocated by Mr. Samuel Simmins, of England, are
-known as the Simmins methods of direct introduction of queens.</p>
-
-<p>In the fall and at all times when honey is not coming in freely, caging
-the queen for a few hours or days is desirable. A cage which permits
-the queen to remain directly on the comb itself is infinitely superior to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">- 94 -</span>
-any other. Fig. 66 shows a pipe-cover cage as made by the author,
-the size of which may be greater if circumstances require&mdash;that is, when
-it seems advisable, with a queen of great value, to include under the
-cage a number of cells containing emerging brood. Ordinarily the size
-here shown will suffice. The queen is caged before a closed window on
-a comb of honey with five or six recently emerged bees taken from the
-hive to which she is to be introduced. The comb holding the caged
-queen is to be placed in the center of the
-queenless colony, where the bees will cluster
-on it, yet with the end of the cage pressed
-firmly against the adjoining comb, so that the
-cage will remain in place even though a heavy
-cluster should gather on it. On the following
-day, just before dark, the queen should be
-released, provided that upon opening the hive
-the workers are not packed densely about the
-cage trying to sting her through it. In the
-latter case she should be left twenty-four or
-even forty-eight hours longer, and in the
-autumn it is generally advisable to keep her
-caged several days or even a whole week. If left longer than one day
-all queen cells should be hunted out and destroyed a few hours before
-releasing the queen. Feeding while the queen is caged is a good plan
-if gathering is not going on briskly. Upon freeing the queen, diluted
-honey drizzled down between the combs will serve to put the bees in a
-good humor for the reception of the new mother bee. The entrance
-of the hive should be contracted for a short time so that but a few bees
-can pass in or out at a time.</p>
-
-<div class="figleft" id="fig66" style="width: 163px;">
- <img src="images/fig66.png" width="163" height="178" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 66.</span>&mdash;Benton queen-introducing
-cage. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The conditions necessary to success in introducing queens are complied
-with by the above plan, namely: The bees are queenless long
-enough to have become fully aware of the fact, yet usually not long
-enough to have started queen cells; the strange queen is caged a sufficient
-length of time to acquire the peculiar odor of the hive to which
-she is to be given; the bees are all at home when the queen is released,
-and thus all become thoroughly gorged with food and are well disposed
-toward the new queen. No robber-bees come about, and by morning
-all is in order.</p>
-
-<p>As queens mate only once (p. 19), and workers and drones live but a
-few weeks or at most a few months (p. 20), if an Italian, a Carniolan,
-or other choice queen mated to a drone of her own race, be introduced
-to a given colony the bees of this colony will soon be replaced by others
-of the same race as the queen introduced. All of the colonies of an
-apiary may thus be changed; or, from a single breeding queen the
-apiary may be supplied with young queens pure in blood, and, since
-these (even though mated to drones of another race) will produce
-drones of their own blood the apiary will soon be stocked with males
-of the desired race.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">- 95 -</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.<br />
-
-<span class="smaller">INCREASE OF COLONIES.</span></h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<h3>NATURAL SWARMING.</h3>
-
-<p>An abundant secretion of honey and general prosperity of the colony&mdash;with
-combs crowded with bees and brood&mdash;are the immediate
-conditions which incite a colony of bees to swarm. If a colony in
-prosperous condition be found when the gathering season has fairly
-opened, with eggs or larv&aelig; in partly finished queen cells, a swarm may
-be expected in a few days should the weather continue favorable. The
-first one from a given hive usually issues within twenty-four to forty-eight
-hours after the sealing of the first queen cell. In the case of
-strong colonies this may occur in favored situations in the North early
-in May, in the Middle States in April, and in the extreme South in
-March. But most of the swarms will come, in each section, a month
-later. When the flow of honey is prolonged the period during which
-swarms may issue is also extended, and in case a second flow occurs in
-midsummer, after an interruption, a second swarming period may occur.</p>
-
-<p>The outward indications immediately preceding swarming are a
-partial cessation of field work on the part of colonies that have been
-industriously gathering and the clustering or loitering of the workers
-about the entrances at times when they have usually been engaged in
-collecting and when other colonies no more populous are at work.
-Apparently many are awaiting the signal to migrate, while some seem
-not to have caught the spirit, but continue their field work. Suddenly
-great excitement seizes the workers that happen to be in the hive at
-the time. They rush forth pellmell, accompanied by the old queen, and
-after circling about for some minutes cluster on some neighboring tree
-or shrub.</p>
-
-<p>It very rarely happens that a swarm fails to cluster before leaving,
-but it may do so if it has swarmed before and returned to the hive
-because the queen failed to accompany it. Spraying water on the
-leaders or advance portion of the swarm from a force pump, firing a
-gun among them, or throwing the reflection from a mirror on them will
-disconcert the absconding swarm and nearly always cause the bees to
-settle, but the remedy must be at hand and applied instantly.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">- 96 -</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig67" style="width: 398px;">
- <img src="images/fig67.png" width="398" height="624" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 67.</span>&mdash;Hiving a swarm. (Original&mdash;from photograph.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>When a swarm has fairly settled it is best to hive it as soon as possible,
-lest others coming out may join it, occasioning a loss of queens, and
-sometimes of bees, or much trouble in separating them. The operation
-of hiving may appear very formidable to the novice and attended with
-great risks, but a little experience will dispel such apprehensions. The
-bees before swarming usually fill their sacs with honey and are quite
-peaceable, so that by the use of a little smoke in hiving there is seldom
-any difficulty. But to be doubly sure the novice should sprinkle sweetened
-water over the cluster, and at the same time wear a veil to protect
-his face. Of course, the hive has been ready for some time and has been
-standing in the shade so it will not be heated. If the cluster should be
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">- 97 -</span>
-on a small limb which can be readily cut off, it can be laid down in front
-of the new hive, which should have a full-width entrance or be raised
-up in front. The bees will go trooping in, but if not fast enough gentle
-urging of the rear guard with a feather will hasten matters. If the
-bees have clustered on a branch which it is desirable to preserve, yet
-where the hive can conveniently be placed directly under the cluster
-and close to it, the swarm may be shaken into the hive at once (<a href="#fig67">fig. 67</a>);
-or the hive may be located on the stand it is to occupy and the bees
-shaken into a large basket or into a regular swarm catcher and poured
-in front of the hive. If the cluster is on the body of the tree it will be
-necessary to place the hive near and smoke or brush the bees into it.
-They will go up more readily than down, and may often be dipped with
-a small tin dipper or a wooden spoon and poured in front of the hive.
-Whatever plan be pursued, expedition is advisable, and it is best before
-leaving them to see that nearly all of the bees are inside of the hive: at
-least no clusters, however small, should be left on the tree, as the queen
-might be among those left behind, in which case the swarm would desert
-the new hive and return to the tree or go wherever the queen had
-settled, or, failing to find her, would return to the hive whence they
-had issued, unless meanwhile some other swarm should issue, which they
-would be likely to join. A few bees flying about or crawling excitedly
-over the spot from which the main part of the swarm has been removed
-need not be heeded. They will find their way back to the stand from
-which they came. As soon as the swarm is fairly within the new hive
-the latter should be carried to its permanent stand, and well shaded
-and ventilated. It is better policy, however, to place the hive containing
-the first swarm on the stand of the parent colony at once, removing
-the latter to a new location. The new swarm, having the old queen,
-with nearly all of the flight bees, will be in prime condition for storing
-honey, so that supers may be placed on it as soon as it has made a fair
-start in its new home&mdash;that is, on the second or third day after the
-swarm was hived. If there are uncompleted supers on the parent colony
-which has been removed, they should be lifted over to the new hive
-on the second or third day, as the parent colony, having parted with so
-many of its workers, will not be able to store at once. But the new
-swarm, placed in a clean hive with starters only, will be in shape to store
-in sections at once and produce the whitest combs and honey which the
-source of the yield will permit.</p>
-
-<h4>CLIPPING QUEENS.</h4>
-
-<p>To prevent swarms from absconding and to facilitate the work of
-hiving them, as well as to keep track more easily of the ages of queens,
-many persons prefer to clip the wings of their queens as soon as mated.
-The first season one of the large or primary wings is clipped half away;
-at the opening of the second season the Other large wing, and the third
-season an additional clip is taken from one of the large wings, and with
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">- 98 -</span>
-it a portion of one of the secondary or smaller wings. With finely
-pointed scissors this operation can be performed while the queen is
-loose on the combs, but there is much danger of clipping one or more of
-her legs also. If she be caught by her wings with the thumb and first
-finger of the right hand, and then grasped by the thorax with the thumb
-and first two fingers of the left hand, her wings can easily be reached
-with the scissors. It will not do to grasp the queen by the abdomen?
-and of course there should be but little pressure exerted on the thorax.
-There are some objections against clipping. The queens, being unable
-to fly, are liable to get lost in the grass or stray into the wrong hives
-when they swarm during the absence of the attendant. They certainly
-look unsightly when thus maimed, and occasionally the bees are more
-disposed to replace such queens than unmutilated ones. It is of course
-preferable to lose one of these occasionally rather than the whole swarm.
-When the queen is clipped the operation of hiving is very easy if the
-bee keeper is on hand to catch the queen as she falls from the entrance
-to the ground. When the swarm is fairly out and while the bees are
-still circling in the air an empty hive should be set in place of the one
-from which the swarm has issued. The bees, missing their queen, will
-soon begin to return to their old location and will shortly crowd the
-entrance of the new hive. When about one-fourth have entered the
-queen may be allowed to run in, and the treatment will then not be
-different from that given any newly hived swarm.</p>
-
-<h4>AUTOMATIC HIVERS.</h4>
-
-<p>Thus far the automatic hivers have been only partially successful, so
-that the experimental stage has not yet been passed; but the practical
-perfection of such a device is looked forward to with considerable
-confidence.</p>
-
-<h4>PREVENTION OF AFTER-SWARMING.</h4>
-
-<p>The parent colony, removed from its old hive as soon as the first swarm
-issues, will rarely cast a second swarm, especially if a young queen is
-at hand to be introduced within a day or two. The surplus queen cells
-are likely to be destroyed by this young queen, with the assistance of
-the workers. A laying queen will be readily accepted by a colony which
-by swarming and removal has lost its old bees, and ten to fifteen days
-will be gained in the production of brood. Unless increase is especially
-desired it is best to limit it in this way to first swarms. If still less
-increase is wanted, methods which will be referred to later may be followed
-to prevent swarming as far as possible, and such chance swarms
-as do issue may be returned to the parent hive. If the queens are two
-or more years old, they may in most instances be profitably destroyed
-at this time and young ones introduced from nuclei; but whether introducing
-young queens or returning the swarm with its old queen, great
-care must be taken to destroy every queen cell, otherwise the introduced
-queen may be killed or the swarm may again issue. If, however, no
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">- 99 -</span>
-young queen is at hand and it is desirable to replace the old queen, all
-cells but one may be destroyed, but this must on no account be jarred
-or dented. The danger of overlooking a cell where the hive is crowded
-with bees makes this method somewhat uncertain: moreover, when the
-bees have once got the "swarming fever" they may swarm again without
-preparation in the way of queen cells. It is also very troublesome
-to remove supers to get at the brood combs. These difficulties will
-induce many who may wish to limit the number of their colonies to
-prefer hiving the swarms on starters of foundation on the old stands
-and giving them the supers, while the parent colonies are placed near
-them with entrances turned away for a few days. The flight bees return,
-of course, to the old stand. The parent colony should be turned a little
-each day so as to bring it in five or six days side by side with the hive
-containing the swarm, which is on the old stand, and make its front
-face in the same way. By lifting it a day or so later, while the young
-bees are flying, over to the opposite side of the old stand and turning
-its entrance away from that of the hive on this stand, the bees that are
-flying, as well as those that have marked their last location, will join the
-swarm: and if the same operation be repeated at the end of another
-week most of the remaining bees will find their way within a day or
-two into the hive on the old stand. About this time&mdash;that is, some fifteen
-or sixteen days after the issuance of the first swarm&mdash;the young
-queen will commence laying and may be put in place of the old one
-which issued with the swarm. If honey is still coming in, the young
-queen, with accompanying bees, may usually be safely introduced at this
-time by shaking them in front of the hive from which the queen has
-been removed, both lots of bees having been smoked beforehand so as
-to get them to fill themselves with honey: or the two combs between
-which the queen is found may be lifted, with adhering bees, and placed
-in the center of the colony to which the queen is to be given. Before
-doing this it is best to smoke the latter pretty thoroughly, and if two
-of the brood combs from this hive have been removed a few hours before
-and placed, after their bees have been shaken off, in the colony to be
-united, and all other combs taken away from the latter, the bees, with
-their queen, will be clustered on these brood combs, and they may be
-lifted up without disturbance and placed in the middle of the other hive,
-whose supers and cover are to be put in place at once and the bees left
-to quiet down and resume storing. Under these circumstances the loss
-of a queen will be very rare: nevertheless, in the case of an exceptionally
-valuable one, cages and other methods are advisable. (See
-Chapter IX.)</p>
-
-
-<h3>ARTIFICIAL INCREASE.</h3>
-
-<p>The time lost in watching for swarms and hiving them, the occasional
-losses of swarms, and the vexations attendant upon their issuance, such
-as their clustering in tall trees, uniting and killing queens, and the
-delay in their swarming when the time has come for it, have led bee
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">- 100 -</span>
-keepers to devise methods which would save their time and avoid as
-far as possible the uncertainties connected with this feature of their
-work. Where increase is desired the question is one of considerable
-importance. In the more northern States, where the main honey yield
-comes on suddenly and is abundant for a short period only, and swarming
-is confined mainly to a period of four to six weeks, or even to three
-weeks if the colonies are of pretty uniform strength, this question has
-less weight; but farther south, where the yield is more prolonged and
-the period during which swarms are liable to issue is sometimes
-extended over three or four months, it is of considerable moment, and
-the bee master who intends to multiply the number of his colonies will
-do well to follow some good system of control.</p>
-
-<h4>DIVIDING.</h4>
-
-<p>The simplest method of artificial increase is to lift from the populous
-colony a portion of the combs, with adhering bees, and place them in
-another hive near the parent colony, taking care that the part without
-any queen should have a majority of the bees and should be on the
-old stand. If a mature queen cell is at hand to give to this part a day
-or two after the division, the new colony will soon have a laying queen,
-should all go well. But this last point will need looking after ten days
-or so later. Should a laying queen be at hand to supply to the queenless
-portion of the divided colony, the queen found in the hive at the
-time of the division had better be left in that part of the colony which
-remains on the original stand, since the old bees will of course return
-to that spot and will not as readily receive a strange queen as will the
-removed portion of the colony which has parted with its flight bees.
-By introducing a laying queen when the division is made the deposition
-of eggs will be begun a week earlier than if a cell only should be
-given. At this season of the year this will make a difference of a good
-many thousands of workers, and will also prevent the bees from clogging
-the brood combs with honey, as they would if left without a laying
-queen for a week or more. The supers are to be placed on this part on
-the old stand, which, having most of the flight bees, will be far better
-able to store surplus than the other portion. The plan of making the
-division nearly equal is quite objectionable in case it is followed closely
-by the main honey flow of the season, for it places neither colony in
-the best condition for immediate storing. But if only a moderate yet
-continuous honey flow, followed by a larger yield, is to be anticipated,
-both parts will have time to become populous, and the equal division,
-if done in time&mdash;that is, before the "swarming fever" has taken hold
-of the colony&mdash;will be likely to prevent swarming.</p>
-
-<h4>DRIVING OR BRUSHING.</h4>
-
-<p>In case, however, some immediate work is expected of either part of
-the divided colony, it is preferable to make the division in such a way
-as to secure about all of the flight bees as well as most of the young
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">- 101 -</span>
-bees, which will soon become flight bees, in the hive on the old stand.
-This may be done by shaking or brushing nearly all of the bees from
-the combs of the hive to be divided, or, if the latter is a box hive, the
-swarm may be driven into an empty box, as described under "Transferring,"
-in Chapter VII, and then hived as an ordinary swarm, the
-parent colony receiving also the same treatment as described under
-"Natural swarming."</p>
-
-<h4>THE NUCLEUS SYSTEM.</h4>
-
-<p>Perhaps the safest plan, considering that the yield, even when one is
-acquainted with the flora, can not be foretold, is to follow the plan of
-making nuclei, and, as soon as these have laying queens, building them
-up gradually to full colonies by adding frames of brood, frames filled
-with worker comb, or with comb foundation, or merely starters, as may
-seem best. This system, besides being safe, has certain other advantages.
-It leaves the parent hives strong for the working season, yet
-tends to discourage swarming, because whenever colonies become overcrowded,
-and before they have contracted the swarming fever, one or
-more brood combs are removed and the colony is thus induced to continue
-work in the brood chamber to fill the empty space, while, of course,
-they are kept supplied with plenty of storage room above for surplus
-honey. Furthermore, it is easy to exchange the young queen of the
-nucleus, as soon as she commences laying, with the queen of the full
-colony. If the nucleus has been started early, the full colony will thus
-secure a queen of the current season's raising sufficiently early to
-reduce greatly the probability of its wanting to swarm that year, even
-though permitted to get very strong, as it is almost certain to do under
-such circumstances. These nuclei build straight combs and may be
-relied on to build, even without foundation, worker comb only.</p>
-
-<p>On the whole, a rational method of artificial increase is preferable to
-natural swarming; but experience and judgment in carrying it out are
-required to make it advantageous. It should be cautiously undertaken
-by the beginner, and the main reliance placed upon natural swarming
-until the bee keeper is familiar with the bees' way.</p>
-
-
-<h3>PREVENTION OF SWARMING.</h3>
-
-<p>The most commonly practiced and easily applied preventive measure
-is that of giving abundant room for storage of honey. This to be
-effective should be given early in the season, before the bees get fairly
-into the swarming notion, and the honey should be removed frequently,
-unless additional empty combs can be given in the case of colonies
-managed for extracted honey, while those storing in sections should be
-given additional supers before those already on are completed. With
-colonies run for comb honey it is not so easy to keep down swarming as
-in those run for extracted honey and kept supplied with empty comb.
-Free ventilation and shading of the hives as soon as warm days come
-will also tend toward prevention. Opening the hives once or twice
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">- 102 -</span>
-weekly and destroying all queen cells that have been commenced will
-check swarming for a time in many instances, and is a plan which seems
-very thorough and the most plausible of any to beginners. But sometimes
-swarms issue without waiting to form cells; it is also very difficult
-to find all cells without shaking the bees from each comb in succession,
-an operation which, besides consuming much time, is very laborious
-when supers have to be removed, and greatly disturbs the labors of the
-bees. If but one cell is overlooked the colony will still swarm. The
-plan therefore leaves at best much to be desired, and is in general not
-worth the effort it costs and can not be depended on.</p>
-
-<h4>DEQUEENING.</h4>
-
-<p>The removal of a queen at the opening of the swarming season interferes,
-of course, with the plans of the bees, and they will then delay
-swarming until they get a young queen. Then if the bee keeper
-destroys all queen cells before the tenth day, swarming will again be
-checked. But to prevent swarming by keeping colonies queenless
-longer than a few days at most is to attain a certain desired result at
-a disproportionate cost, for the bees will not store diligently when first
-made queenless, and the whole yield of honey, especially if the flow is
-extended over some time or other yields come later in the season, is
-likely, or even nearly sure, to be less from such colonies, while the interruption
-to brood rearing may decimate the colony and prove very disastrous
-to it. The plan is therefore not to be commended.</p>
-
-<h4>REQUEENING.</h4>
-
-<p>Quite the opposite of this, and more efficacious in the prevention of
-swarming, is the practice of replacing the old queen early in the season
-with a young one of the same season's raising, produced, perhaps, in the
-South before it is possible to rear queens in the North. Such queens
-are not likely to swarm during the first season, and as they are vigorous
-layers the hive will be well populated at all times and thus ready
-for any harvest. This is important inasmuch as a flow of honey may
-come unexpectedly from some plant ordinarily not counted upon, and
-also since the conditions essential to the development of the various
-honey-yielding plants differ greatly, their time and succession of honey
-yield will also differ with the season, the same as the quantity may vary.
-Young queens are also safest to head the colonies for the winter. The
-plan is conducive to the highest prosperity of the colonies and is consistent
-with the securing of the largest average yield of honey, since
-besides giving them vigorous layers it generally keeps the population
-together in powerful colonies. It is therefore to be commended on all
-accounts as being in line with the most progressive management, without
-at the same time interfering with the application of other preventive
-measures.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">- 103 -</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig68" style="width: 332px;">
- <img src="images/fig68.png" width="332" height="242" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 68.</span>&mdash;The Simmins non-swarming system&mdash;single-story hive with supers: <i>bc</i>, brood chamber;
-<i>sc</i>, super; <i>st</i>, starters of foundation; <i>c</i>, entrance. (Redrawn from A Modern Bee-Farm.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<h4>SPACE NEAR ENTRANCES.</h4>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig69" style="width: 254px;">
- <img src="images/fig69.png" width="254" height="285" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 69.</span>&mdash;The Simmins non-swarming system&mdash;double-story
-hive with supers; <i>bc</i>, brood chamber;
-<i>sc</i>, supers; <i>st</i>, chamber with starters; <i>e</i>, entrance.
-(Redrawn from A Modern Bee Farm.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Arranging frames with starters or combs merely begun between the
-brood nest and the flight hole of the hive while the bees are given storing
-space above or back of the brood-nest (figs. <a href="#fig68">68</a> and <a href="#fig69">69</a>) La a plan
-strongly recommended by Mr. Samuel Simmins, of England, and which
-has come to be known as "the Simmins non-swarming method," some
-features of it and the combination into a well defined method having
-been original with him. It is an
-excellent preventive measure,
-though not invariably successful
-even when the distinctive features
-brought forward prominently
-by Mr. Simmins&mdash;empty
-space between the brood combs
-and entrance, together with the
-employment of drawn combs in
-the supers&mdash;are supplemented
-by other measures already mentioned;
-but when, in addition to
-the space between the brood and
-the flight hole, the precaution be
-taken to get supers on in time,
-to ventilate the hive well, and to
-keep queens not over two years
-old, swarming will be very
-limited. If to these precautions
-be added that of substituting for
-the old queens young ones of the current season's raising, before swarming
-has begun, practical immunity from swarming is generally insured.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">- 104 -</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig70" style="width: 328px;">
- <img src="images/fig70.png" width="328" height="267" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 70.</span>&mdash;Beehives with Langdon non-swarmer attached: <i>A, B</i>, hives; <i>S, S&#8242;</i>, supers; <i>D</i>, non-swarming
-device; <i>e, e&#8242;</i>, entrances corresponding to hive entrances; <i>sl</i>, slide for closing entrance; <i>c, c&#8242;</i>, conical
-wire-cloth bee-escapes; <i>ex, ex&#8242;</i>, exits of same. (From Insect Life.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<h4>LANGDON NON-SWARMING DEVICE.</h4>
-
-<p>This device (<a href="#fig70">fig. 70, <i>D</i></a>), first described and illustrated in Insect Life
-for April, 1893 (Vol. V, No. 4), is designed to do more than merely prevent
-swarming. The following claims are made by the inventor:</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>(1) It prevents all swarming without caging queens, cutting out queen cells or
-manipulation of brood combs.</p>
-
-<p>(2) Two light colonies that would not do much in sections if working separately
-make one good one by running the field force of both into the same set of supers.</p>
-
-<p>(3) No bait sections are needed, as the bees can be crowded into the sections without
-swarming.</p>
-
-<p>(4) The honey will be finished in better condition, that is, with less travel stain,
-because the union of the field forces enables them to complete the work in less time.</p>
-
-<p>(5) There will be fewer unfinished sections at the close of the honey harvest for
-the reason just mentioned.</p>
-
-<p>(6) Also for the same reason honey can be taken off by the full case instead of by
-the section or holderful.</p>
-
-<p>(7) Drones will be fewer in number, as a double handful will often be killed off in
-the closed hive while the other is storing honey rapidly.</p>
-
-<p>(8) Artificial swarms and nuclei can be more easily made, as combs of brood and
-bees can be taken from the closed hive in which the queen can be found very
-quickly.</p>
-
-<p>(9) It enables one to care for more than twice as many colonies as under the
-swarming system.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Results according with the claims mentioned above have been reported
-from various localities, but numerous adverse reports have also been
-given, the latter indicating clearly that some modification of the device
-is necessary if it is to be made generally serviceable. A further trial
-of the principle under varying conditions and climates will also be
-required to decide its exact value.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">- 105 -</span></p>
-
-<p>The manner of using the device is simple. Before the colonies swarm
-the device is attached to the fronts of two adjacent hives. The slide
-(<a href="#fig70">fig. 70, <i>sl</i></a>) having been inserted at one end of the device, the bees
-returning from the fields are all run into the other hive, on which the
-supers are then placed. Before the colony, thus made doubly populous,
-decides to swarm, the slide and supers are both changed to the other
-hive. This is repeated every four or five days during the swarming
-period.</p>
-
-<h4>SELECTION IN BREEDING.</h4>
-
-<p>Some races of bees show greater inclination than others toward
-swarming, and the same difference can be noted between individual
-colonies of a given race; therefore, whatever methods be adopted to
-prevent or limit increase, no doubt the constant selection of those
-queens to breed from whose workers show the least tendency toward
-swarming would in time greatly reduce this disposition. Indeed, it is
-perfectly consistent to believe that persistent effort, coupled with rigid
-and intelligent selection, will eventually result in a strain of bees quite
-as much entitled to be termed non-swarming as certain breeds of fowls
-which have been produced by artificial selection are to be called non-sitters.
-These terms are of course only relative, being merely indicative
-of the possession of a certain disposition in a less degree than that
-shown by others of the same species. It might never be possible to
-change the nature of our honey bees so completely that they would
-never swarm under any circumstances, and even if possible it would
-take a long period, so strongly implanted seems this instinct. But to
-modify it is within the reach of any intelligent breeder who will persistently
-make the effort. Such work should be undertaken in experimental
-apiaries where its continuance when a single point has been
-gained will not be affected by the changes of individual fortunes.</p>
-
-<p>Many features connected with swarming still remain mysteries. The
-whole subject requires still more study, and its full elucidation would
-no doubt be of great practical value to apiculture. The field is inviting.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">- 106 -</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.<br />
-
-<span class="smaller">WINTERING BEES.</span></h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<p>There will be little complaint of losses in wintering bees, whether in
-a cold climate or a warm one, whether indoors or outside, provided the
-following points are observed with each colony:</p>
-
-<p>(1) <i>The colony must have a good queen.</i>&mdash;By a good queen is meant one
-not over two years old and which shows no signs of failure during the
-latter part of the season. It is preferable to have a queen of the current
-season's raising. Such a queen, if reared from good stock and
-under good conditions during the latter part of the summer, will be in
-her prime the following spring, and if no other conditions are lacking
-will have her colony strong for the harvest.</p>
-
-<p>(2) <i>Plenty of good bees.</i>&mdash;Bees that are several months old or that
-have gathered a heavy fall harvest of honey are not good to depend
-upon for the winter. They drop off gradually of old age before there
-are young bees to fill their places, and the queen, however prolific, not
-having bees enough to cover her eggs, can not bring up, as she otherwise
-would, the strength of the colony to a proper standard in time
-for the harvest. There should be young bees emerging at all times up
-to the month of October, or, in the South, even later.</p>
-
-<p>(3) <i>Good food and plenty of it.</i>&mdash;Any well-ripened sealed honey that
-is not crystallized is good winter food. Honeydew stored by bees and
-honey from a few flowers (cruciferous plants, asters, etc.) crystallizes in
-the combs soon after it is gathered and the bees are obliged to liquefy
-it as they use it. They can not do this well in dry, cold weather, and
-dampness within the hive, though it might enable the bees to liquefy
-the crystallized honey, is otherwise inimical to bee life, especially so
-during winter. Some of the crystallized food is also wasted; hence the
-bees may starve even though the fall weight indicated sufficient stores
-for winter. Disastrous results are very likely, therefore, to follow the
-attempt to winter on such food.</p>
-
-<p>The removal of all pollen when preparing bees for winter has been
-advised by some, who assert that it is unfit winter food and produces
-dysentery. It will not, of course, alone sustain the life of the adult bees,
-but if all conditions are right no more of it will be eaten than the bees
-require to repair the waste of bodily tissue, and this being slight in
-winter the consumption is small as long as other food lasts. The pollen
-grains which by accident find their way into honey as the bees gather
-it would probably be quite sufficient to supply this waste in the case of
-the adult workers and no harm would result to these bees from the
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">- 107 -</span>
-substitution of other combs for those containing pollen. But good colonies
-should begin brood rearing in January or February, and pollen or
-a suitable substitute for it containing nitrogen most then be present
-or the nurse bees will be subjected to a fearful drain on their vitality
-to supply the rich nitrogenous secretion required by the developing
-larv&aelig;; in fact, they can not do so long, and the colony dwindles. This
-absurd theory that bees can not have access to pollen in winter without
-detrimental results can best be answered by referring to the well-known
-fact that a colony in a large box or straw hive, freely ventilated, yet
-having some part of the hive protected from drafts of air and kept dry,
-will almost invariably come out strong in the spring if populous in the
-fall, heavy with honey, and having a young and vigorous queen. The
-pollen, it could not possibly be claimed, had been injurious to such
-colonies, although they always gather and store it without restriction,
-and are not disturbed in the possession of it. In truth, their stores of
-pollen have constituted an important factor in their development, and
-the strong instinct which they have toward making accumulations of
-pollen for winter use and which they have exercised for thousands
-of years undisturbed is of great benefit to them.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig71" style="width: 339px;">
- <img src="images/fig71.png" width="339" height="341" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 71.</span>&mdash;Percolator for preparation of winter food. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Other conditions being equal, those colonies having the most honey
-stored compactly in the brood apartment and close about the very
-center where the last brood of young bees should emerge, are the ones
-which will winter best. Forty pounds for a northern latitude and 30
-in the middle sections of the Tinted States may be considered only a
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">- 108 -</span>
-good supply. When natural stores are found to be lacking in the
-brood chamber, the best substitute is a sirup made of granulated sugar,
-which should be fed early in the autumn as rapidly as the bees can
-manipulate it and store it away. If
-given slowly the bees will be incited
-to rear brood unseasonably, and will
-consume much of the food in this
-way. If several pounds be given
-at a time&mdash;placed in the top story of
-the colony to be fed, just at nightfall&mdash;it will be stored away quickly,
-so that in a week at most the full
-winter stores will be completed.
-The bees will seal it over better if fed
-slowly at the last; that is, after the
-main feeding. Sirup made by percolation
-of cold water through a
-mass of sugar and then through some porous material, as cotton, is what
-is called a completely saturated solution; that is, it contains all the sugar
-the water can be made to hold, and will not trouble by granulation (<a href="#fig71">fig. 71</a>).
-The same difficulty is avoided
-by adding well-ripened honey to
-moderately thick sirup, about one-fourth
-or one-fifth as much honey
-as sirup. Molasses, brown sugar,
-glucose, etc., are not suitable for
-winter stores for bees.</p>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig72" style="width: 240px;">
- <img src="images/fig72.png" width="240" height="201" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 72.</span>&mdash;The American straw hive of Hayek
-Bros.</div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig73" style="width: 219px;">
- <img src="images/fig73.png" width="219" height="342" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 73.</span>&mdash;Davis hive with newspapers packed
-between inner and outer cases, and brood
-frames on end for the winter. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>It is poor policy to permit bees to
-enter winter quarters without an
-abundance of stores&mdash;better twice
-the amount that will be actually
-consumed than merely enough to
-enable them to live through.</p>
-
-<p>(4) <i>The bees must be kept dry and
-warm.</i>&mdash;A substantial hive with a
-tight roof will keep rain and snow
-from the cluster; but the bees must
-have air even during the severest
-weather and also when in their most
-quiescent state; hence the question
-of ventilation has to be considered.
-It has occasioned more discussion
-and experimentation than any other
-point concerned in the wintering of bees. The amount of ventilation
-both indoors and outside, whether upward ventilation or lower ventilation,
-or both, and whether through the wooden walls of the hive alone,
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">- 109 -</span>
-have given rise to thousands of experiments based on all sorts of theories,
-and innumerable losses have resulted. The matter is really more
-complicated than would seem at first thought. The warm air about the
-bodies of the bees (the winter temperature of the cluster being about
-72&deg; F.) coming in contact with the cold surfaces of combs of honey in
-ordinary hives, or with the inner Avails of such hives, condensation and
-deposition of moisture occurs. During severe weather this accumulates
-in the shape of hoarfrost, which, melting with a rise of temperature,
-trickles down over the combs, the walls of the hive, and the bees themselves,
-and, entering the honey cells through the somewhat porous capping,
-sours the honey with which it mixes. The soured food, dampness,
-and chilling of the bees combine to bring on diarrhea, which is sure to
-weaken and decimate the colony if it does not exterminate it. To
-avoid these troubles the surplus moisture of the hive must be carried
-away by free ventilation, which at the same time supplies pure air, but
-which does not create drafts in the
-hive nor permit such an escape of
-heat as will chill the cluster through.
-Straw hives (<a href="#fig72">fig. 72</a>) do this well; also
-the forms shown in figs. <a href="#fig73">73</a> and <a href="#fig74">74</a>
-if well packed over the combs and
-ventilated above the packing.</p>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig74" style="width: 214px;">
- <img src="images/fig74.png" width="214" height="150" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 74.</span>&mdash;Double-walled hive adapted to outdoor
-wintering as well as summer use below
-40&deg; north latitude in the United States.
-Thickness of each wall, &#8540; inch; space between
-walls, 2 inches, packed with dry chaff
-or ground cork. (Original.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>(5) <i>There should be no manipulation
-out of season.</i>&mdash;Breaking up the cluster
-and exposing the individual bees
-and their combs to a low temperature,
-as well as causing them to gorge
-themselves with honey when an opportunity
-for a cleansing flight may
-not occur soon, are also causes which bring on diarrheal difficulties.
-Feeding to complete the winter stores, when necessary, should be done
-soon after the last honey flow, so that the bees will settle down for
-the winter on the approach of cool autumn days. After this they are
-better off if left undisturbed until the final work of preparing them
-for winter is done, which, if the hive is well arranged, will be no
-material disturbance to the bees. It is always preferable not to be
-obliged to touch the brood combs or disturb the cluster when the
-weather is too cold for the bees to fly freely.</p>
-
-
-<h3>OUTDOOR WINTERING.</h3>
-
-<p>A consideration of the requirements above mentioned leads at once
-to the essential features of any plan of outdoor wintering that may be
-followed in the colder portions of our country with uniform success,
-namely, the presence in the colony of a vigorous queen less than two
-years old; a good cluster of healthy bees bred the latter part of the
-season, that is, of sufficient numbers so that when closely clustered
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">- 110 -</span>
-during quite cool weather late in October or November not less than
-six spaces between the brood combs, and preferably eight or nine
-spaces, shall be occupied by a good number of bees, or that the cluster
-shall be at such a time not less than 8, and preferably 10 to 12, inches
-in diameter; the stores should consist of 30 pounds of well-ripened
-honey or thick sugar sirup, stored and mostly sealed over and about
-the bees; since in a long, shallow hive the heat is too diffused, combs
-much longer than deep should be on end for the winter, to enable
-the bees to economize their natural warmth; free access of pure air,
-but without the creation of drafts, hence the entrance should be indirect
-or screened in some manner; the ventilation should permit the
-gradual passing away of the moisture-laden air of the hive, but not
-the escape of heat, hence 6 or more inches (in the coldest portions of the
-United States 10 or 12 inches) of dry, porous material, soft and warmth-retaining,
-should be on all sides of the cluster and near to it, the whole
-being protected by waterproof walls from any access of outside
-moisture. Care to establish in all cases conditions similar to the above
-before bees cease flying in the autumn will insure the apiarist against
-any serious losses in wintering out of doors, even in the severest
-portions of our country.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter" id="fig75" style="width: 460px;">
- <img src="images/fig75.png" width="460" height="294" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 75.</span>&mdash;An apiary in Vermont&mdash;winter view. (Reproduced from photograph.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>In the extreme South, where bees can fly out at any time of the year,
-little extra precaution is needed for the winter beyond seeing that the
-stores do not become exhausted during a drought or a protracted rain,
-when no honey can be gathered. Just in proportion to the severity
-and length of the winter season the above general rules may be looked
-upon as applicable, always bearing in mind, however, that in the
-variable climate of the middle section of the country many of the precautions
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">- 111 -</span>
-strictly essential in a colder climate may still be profitably
-followed, although fair results may be expected in the main without
-their strict observance.</p>
-
-
-<h3>INDOOR WINTERING.</h3>
-
-<p>Dry cellars or special repositories are utilized in those portions of
-the country where the cold of winter is extreme and likely to be somewhat
-continuous. Economy of food is one of the chief advantages, but
-two-thirds as much, or about 20 to 25 pounds per hive, are needed to
-bring a colony through if conditions are favorable. The colonies, prepared
-as regards bees, queens, character of stores, etc., the same as for
-outdoor wintering, are carried into the cellar or repository just before
-the first snows come or severe freezing occurs. Caps are removed or
-lifted up and cushions or mats laid on the frames. Light is excluded
-and all other disturbing influences in so far as possible, the effort being
-made to keep the temperature at about 42&deg; F. during the earlier part
-of the winter. Later, especially after brood-rearing may have been
-begun, a somewhat higher degree is admissible&mdash;45&deg; to 46&deg;, some even
-allowing it to go up to 50&deg;. No definite rule can be given, however,
-since much depends upon the humidity of the air, etc. As long as the
-bees remain quiet the temperature is not too high and is preferably
-to be maintained. Should they become exceedingly restless, and the
-opportunity occur during a winter thaw to give them a cleansing flight,
-it will be advisable to return them for a few hours or a day or two to
-their summer stands, and when they have flown and quieted down,
-replace them in the cellar or repository. In the spring there should
-not be too great eagerness to get them out of the cellar, provided they
-are not restless. Their confinement indoors makes them somewhat
-sensitive to the outside cold, and due caution should be observed, else
-the ranks of the workers will become greatly decimated before young
-ones appear to take their places.</p>
-
-<p>The same questions regarding ventilation of hives indoors that puzzle
-many in the case of those left on their summer stands have been
-discussed over and over. All that is necessary, however, is to consider
-the same points, the question being less complicated, though, by reason
-of the greater uniformity between the temperature surrounding the
-cluster of bees and that outside the hive when the latter is in a suitable
-winter repository. Some have reported success in wintering in damp
-cellars, yet it is probable that such success was purely accidental, or
-rather occurred in spite of the dampness of the repository, the other
-conditions very likely having all been favorable, especially as regards
-ventilation of the cellar, and the important points of having good
-stores and an even temperature, which should be several degrees higher
-than is required in a dry cellar. Wintering in a damp repository is,
-however, attended in general with such risks that it should by all means
-be avoided, and the bees, even in a severe climate, intrusted preferably
-to their summer stands, if well prepared as regards their stores and
-populousness.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">- 112 -</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.<br />
-
-<span class="smaller">DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES.</span></h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<h3>DIARRHEA AND DYSENTERY.</h3>
-
-<p>In the chapter on wintering bees allusion has been made to certain
-conditions which bring about diarrhea in bees. Not only will soured or
-fermented honey produce this disease, but thin honey also, by requiring
-too great exertion on the part of the bees to get rid of the surplus
-moisture taken into their bodies, may indirectly cause the disease.
-Repeated complaints have been made by those located near cider mills
-that the apple juice collected by their bees was the cause of diarrhea
-and dysentery. Aphidid secretions sometimes have the same effect.
-Prolonged and intense cold in the interior of the hive, especially if the
-stores are not of the best quality, causes distention and resulting
-weakness and soiling of the hive and combs. Dampness and chilling
-of individual bees frequently cause it. The effort some make to avoid
-the dampness often results in the chilling, for the cover is removed, and
-also some portion of the packing or the quilt or honey board to let the air
-pass through to dry the interior. The true remedy is a cleansing flight
-and warmth in the hive. Should the weather not be favorable for this
-out of doors, the hive may be brought into a warm room and a cage of
-wire cloth 2 or 3 feet square placed over the entrance. When thoroughly
-warmed up the bees will fly in this and find their way back into the
-hive. It is best to leave them in the warm room two or three days,
-lowering the temperature gradually before returning the hive to its
-outside stand.</p>
-
-
-<h3>FOUL BROOD.</h3>
-
-<p>This disease, being highly contagious, is dreaded most of all by the
-bee keeper. It is due to the presence of minute vegetable organisms
-in the body of the bee, the larva, or the egg, which prey upon its tissues.
-These, as Prof. Frank Cheshire has shown, are bacilli, which, multiplying
-with marvelous rapidity by division and also by spores, are carried
-from hive to hive, until from a single infection the whole apiary is soon
-ruined. The particular bacillus which is commonly known as foul brood
-Professor Cheshire has described as <i>Bacillus alvei</i>, or hive bacillus, as it
-affects not only the brood but also the adult bees. (See Pl. XI.) The
-first symptoms noticeable in the hive are its lack of energy, then dead
-larv&aelig; turned black in the cells, and finally sunken caps, some of them
-perforated slightly over larv&aelig; and pup&aelig;.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<table id="Plate_XI" summary="Plate_XI">
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl smaller">Bul. 1, new series, Div. of Entomology, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture.</td>
- <td class="tdr smaller"><span class="smcap">Plate XI.</span></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td colspan="2">
-
-<div class="figcenter" style="width: 408px;">
- <img src="images/plate_11.png" width="408" height="641" alt="" />
-</div>
-
-<p class="caption4nb"><span class="smcap">Bacillus Alvei</span> (Cheshire).</p>
-
-<p class="tdc">[Drawn from nature by Frank R. Cheshire for Jour. R. Micr. Soc.,<br />
-and here reduced one-sixth from the original plate.]</p>
-
-<table style="font-size: 0.75em; width: 40em;" summary="Bees">
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl vtop"><span class="smcap">Fig.&nbsp;1.</span>&mdash;</td>
- <td>Residue of larva three days dead of <i>bacillus alvei</i>; <i>b</i>, bacilli.
- Spores and degenerated trach&aelig; cover the field.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span>&mdash;</td>
- <td>Healthy juices of bee larva.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Fig. 3.</span>&mdash;</td>
- <td>Juices of larva (living) with disease in acute stage; <i>a a</i>, leptothrix forms.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Fig. 4.</span>&mdash;</td>
- <td>Brood cells from a diseased colony; <i>a a</i>, cells containing healthy forms.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Fig. 5.</span>&mdash;</td>
- <td>Cultivation in sterilized agar-agar showing the colony form of bacillus.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Fig. 6.</span>&mdash;</td>
- <td>Same cultivation twenty-four hours later.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Fig. 7.</span>&mdash;</td>
- <td>Spore changing into bacilli.</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
- <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Fig. 8.</span>&mdash;</td>
- <td>Bacillus passing into spore condition.</td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
- </td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">- 113 -</span></p>
-
-<p>All of these symptoms may,
-however, be present when no foul brood exists; but if, upon opening
-some of the cells whose caps are sunken or slightly punctured, a brown,
-ropy, putrid mass is found, which, when lifted on the end of a sliver of
-wood, glides back into the cell or strings down from the mass like thick
-sirup, it is pretty certain that foul brood is present. Caution is necessary
-or it maybe spread all through the apiary. The hands, as well as
-all tools used about the infected colony, should be cleansed by washing
-in a solution of corrosive sublimate (one-eighth ounce dissolved in 1
-gallon water) before going to another hive. If but few are found diseased
-they should be burned at once&mdash;at night, when all the bees are at
-home. If all or nearly all are affected, or if the disease does not seem
-virulent and other apiaries in the neighborhood are not endangered
-thereby, a cure may be attempted. Removal of all of the combs and
-confinement of the bees in an empty box, obliging them to fast until
-some drop from hunger, followed after releasing them by liberal feeding,
-will frequently effect a cure, as indicated many years since by
-Mr. M. Quinby. The hives may be disinfected by washing in carbolic-acid
-water and used again. A second removal of the bees and fasting
-may be necessary in some cases. It will also be well to feed medicated
-sirup&mdash;1 part of carbolic acid, or phenol, to 600 or 700 parts of sirup.
-Many omit the fasting, but destroy all combs and frames and supply
-comb-foundation starters, removing four days later all combs built and
-giving a second lot of starters. It is well to supplement this treatment
-with feeding of medicated sirup. Phenol having been suggested
-to Professor Cheshire as a remedy, he experimented until he found
-that if a sirup containing 1 part of phenol to 400 or 500 parts of the
-food be poured in the cells adjacent to the brood, and the diseased
-brood, after brushing off the bees, sprayed with a solution of 1 phenol
-to 50 water, a cure was speedily effected. The great risk of spreading
-the disease, as well as the time and expense which a cure by drugs
-by the fasting process involves, will cause immediate destruction to be
-resorted to as the cheapest in the end if taken in time.</p>
-
-<p><i>Bacillus gaytoni</i>, also described by Professor Cheshire, is characterized
-by loss of hairy covering on the part of the workers and their
-crawling out of the hives over the ground, constantly wriggling their
-bodies until death occurs. It yields, according to Professor Cheshire,
-to the same remedies as Bacillus alvei, but having been less destructive
-and being far more likely to disappear without effort to cure it, less
-attention has been given to it. Lately, however, it has been alarmingly
-destructive in some of the extensive apiaries of California. Colorado,
-and Texas, so that some simple remedy would be very welcome.</p>
-
-
-<h3>THE WAX OR BEE MOTH.</h3>
-
-<p>The larva of a moth known to entomologists as <i>Galleria mellonella</i>
-Linn. gnaws passages through the combs of the bees, especially those in
-or near the brood nest, often proving very destructive in weak or neglected<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">- 114 -</span>
-colonies. The popular name, wax moth, was doubtless given on
-the supposition that the food of the larva was chiefly wax; but when an
-attempt to rear them on this substance in its usual commercial purity
-is made slight development only results. Probably chemically pure wax
-would not be touched by the larva; but in combs containing the larval
-skins left by developing bees, or containing brood or pollen, they reach
-their highest development if left undisturbed during warm weather,
-finding ample nourishment in the nitrogen-containing pollen and animal
-tissues left by the molting larv&aelig;. To protect themselves from the bees
-they line their galleries through the combs with a strong web of silk
-and are able to retreat or advance rapidly through them when attacked.
-The observing bee keeper will occasionally notice the moths resting
-during the daytime on the corners of the hives or under the roof projections
-or edges of the bottom boards. Its color is dull or ashy gray,
-with light and dark streaks, making it so nearly like a protruding sliver
-of a weather-beaten board as to protect it materially from its enemies
-when resting on any unpainted surface that has been long exposed. At
-nightfall the moths may be seen flitting about the hive entrances, seeking
-an opportunity to enter and deposit their eggs. If prevented by
-the bees, which are then instinctively on the alert, they deposit in the
-crevices between the hive and stand or between the hive and cap. The
-minute larv&aelig; as they emerge soon make their way into the interior of
-the hive. It is possible also that some of the eggs of the moth may be
-left where the bees crawling over them carry them into the hive by
-accident, the freshly laid egg adhering readily to any substance it
-touches. In the northern and middle sections of the United States
-two broods are reared, the first appearing in May, the second and larger
-brood in midsummer or even August. The eggs deposited by the last
-brood develop slowly in the cooler autumn weather, but usually reach
-the pupal stage, in which they normally pass the winter. Individual
-moths may, however, be seen about the apiary during June and July,
-and even into the autumn, so that egg deposition is constantly going
-on, and any combs removed from the hive and left unprotected by bees,
-especially if in a warm apartment or a closed box, will soon be in complete
-possession of the destructive larv&aelig;, which wax fat and soon reduce
-them to a mass of webs. The only remedies are to keep the combs
-under the constant protection of the bees, or, if the colonies are not
-populous enough to cover them fairly, the combs should be hung so as
-to leave a space between them in a cupboard or large box which can
-be closed tightly, so as to subject them for some time to the fumes generated
-by throwing a handful or two of sulphur on live coals, or to the
-odors of bisulphide of carbon in an open vial. Caution is needed in the
-use of the latter, since it is highly inflammable.</p>
-
-<p>Oriental races of bees are more energetic than others in clearing
-out wax-moth larv&aelig;, and Carniolans and Italians more so than the
-common bees. But in colonies always supplied with good queens
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">- 115 -</span>
-the wax-moth larv&aelig; make little headway, and it is therefore only the
-neglected hives that are seriously troubled. Moth-trap attachments
-or moth-proof hives are therefore of no use, unless, in the case of the
-former, larv&aelig; seeking a secure place in which to pupate may be caught;
-but that implies frequent examination, and the same or less attention
-to the colony itself will suffice to do away with almost any breeding of
-moths. Hives proof against the entrance of wax-moth larv&aelig; would,
-as the statements here made regarding the breeding habits of the
-moth indicate, exclude the bees also. From the foregoing it can be
-readily seen that the attentive apiarist no longer regards the wax moth
-as a serious pest.</p>
-
-
-<h3>BRAULA OR "BEE LOUSE."</h3>
-
-<p>A wingless dipteron, <i>Braula c&aelig;ca</i> Nitsch, known under the common
-name of "bee louse," is a troublesome parasite on bees in Mediterranean
-countries, the adults, which are very large in proportion to the host,
-gathering on the thoraces of the workers, rarely of the drones, but in
-great numbers on the queens. The writer has removed seventy-five at
-one time from a queen, though ordinarily the numbers do not exceed a
-dozen. When numerous they render the queen weak by the removal
-of vital fluids. The insect has frequently been imported to this country
-on queens with attendant bees, but thus far has probably gained no
-foothold. Likely it will never do so in the North, but the case might
-be different in any region resembling southern Europe in climate, and
-it is by all means advisable to remove every one from any queen or
-worker arriving here infested with them.</p>
-
-
-<h3>OTHER ENEMIES.</h3>
-
-<p><i>Robber flies, dragon flies, etc.</i>&mdash;Several species of <i>Asilus</i> and related
-predaceous Diptera do not live upon injurious insects alone, but also
-capture and devour honey bees. They are more destructive in the
-South than elsewhere. The same is true of the neuropterous insects
-known as mosquito hawks, dragon flies, or devil's darning needles.
-There seems to be no remedy for any of these except that of frightening
-them away when noticed about the apiary. The "stinging bugs,"
-belonging in the hemipterous family Phymatid&aelig;, often capture and
-destroy workers as they visit the flowers. No remedy is practicable.</p>
-
-<p><i>Ants and wasps.</i>&mdash;Some of the larger ants and social wasps are very
-troublesome to the apiarist in tropical and even in subtropical regions.
-They seize the workers and cut them in pieces with their powerful jaws.
-Having once reduced the hive defenders, they even make bold to enter
-and carry off the queen as well as help themselves to honey. Trapping
-them with honey or with meat and killing them, as well as destroying
-the nests when found, are the only remedies. The paper nests are
-easily burned away, while an effectual remedy against ants is to open
-the hill and pour in an ounce or two of bisulphide of carbon.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">- 116 -</span></p>
-
-<p><i>Spiders.</i>&mdash;Webs made about hive entrances often capture bees as
-well as wax moths, and, notwithstanding this last-mentioned point in
-their favor, they had better be removed.</p>
-
-<p><i>Toads and lizards.</i>&mdash;These devour many bees, and whenever found
-near the hives should be destroyed or removed to the vegetable garden.</p>
-
-<p><i>Birds.</i>&mdash;Swallows and kingbirds have been accused of eating many
-bees. It is probable that the destruction of injurious insects by them
-more than makes amends for the bees taken. This was clearly proven
-in the case of the kingbird, stomachs of which, examined at the United
-States Department of Agriculture, showed only a very small percentage
-of honey bees, and these mostly drones.</p>
-
-
-<h3>MAMMALS.</h3>
-
-<p>Mice gaining access to the hive during winter gnaw out among the
-combs a nest cavity and eat honey, pollen, and bees. Low entrances,
-covered, if found necessary, with a strip of tin, will prevent the mice
-from gnawing larger holes, yet permit the bees to pass in and out.
-Skunks sometimes disturb hive entrances and catch bees as they come
-out. This is particularly vexatious in the winter, when colonies should
-be left quiet. In mountain localities, bears, led by their fondness for
-honey, still occasionally overturn beehives. The remedies for both of
-these are, of course, shooting or trapping.</p>
-
-
-<h3>ROBBER BEES.</h3>
-
-<p>When forage is scarce in the field, bees belonging to different colonies
-often wage fierce wars over the stores already in hives. Thousands are
-killed and the victors relentlessly carry off as booty every drop of honey
-from the vanquished hive, leaving its bees to starve miserably. A great
-stir and loud buzzing in the hive of the conquerors attests their rejoicing
-over the ill-gotten gains. Nor have they any code of morals which
-inclines them to select as opponents forces equal in strength to their own.
-With them "all's fair in war." Their only object is plunder, and they
-therefore select the most defenseless, a colony disorganized through loss
-of its queen being an especial mark for a combined attack.</p>
-
-<p>Extreme caution to prevent robbing is always advisable. A little
-carelessness or neglect in the apiary early in the spring or toward the
-latter part of the season may result in much loss. It is easier to prevent
-robbing than to check it at once or without loss after it is well under
-way. Leaving honey exposed about the apiary often induces robbers to
-begin their work; hence extracting and similar work must be done in
-bee-proof rooms whenever the bees are not gathering honey freely. It
-may at such times be necessary to do all manipulating early in the
-morning, before many of the bees have begun to fly, or later in the day,
-after they have ceased, or even under a tent made of mosquito netting
-and placed temporarily over the hive to be manipulated. Queenless
-and weak colonies should be put in order if possible before the honey
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">- 117 -</span>
-flow ceases. In any event the entrances of such hives should be contracted
-until but few or even no more than one bee can gain access to
-the interior at one time. Professor Cheshire has devised an excellent
-entrance block to prevent or check robbing. This is shown in <a href="#fig70">fig. 70</a>,
-and is so simple that anyone can make it. When contracted and placed
-at the hive entrance it will be seen that the robbers must make their
-way through a narrow and bent passage, something they are loath to
-attempt, especially if at the first onset they find the passage well
-guarded.</p>
-
-<div class="figright" id="fig76" style="width: 223px;">
- <img src="images/fig76.png" width="223" height="56" alt="" />
- <div class="figcaption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 76.</span>&mdash;Cheshire anti-robbing entrance: <i>st</i>,
-stationary piece; <i>s</i>, slide; <i>p</i>, pin or stop. (Redrawn.)</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>If robbing has begun it may sometimes be stopped by throwing
-coarse grass or weeds over the entrance of the hive attacked, or by
-leaning a pane of glass against its front, the entrance being, of course,
-contracted as indicated above. These plans tend to confuse the robbers
-for a time, and meanwhile the rightful occupants of the hive may
-be able to organize for defense. If convenient the colony attacked
-may be moved a distance of a half mile or more and placed as far as possible
-from other apiaries until it can recuperate. Another plan in
-extreme cases is to put the colony in a dark cellar for a few days, confining
-the bees to the hive with wire cloth, so as to allow plenty of
-ventilation, as described under the head of "Moving bees." When
-brought out of the cellar it is well
-to place the colony on a new stand,
-apart from the other bees, contract
-the entrance, and lean a board against
-the front of the hive. It is also safest
-to bring it out late in the day, even
-just at dusk, so the bees will begin
-flying from it gradually and not attract the attention of robbers. It
-may be well, when removing a colony from its stand to save it from robbers,
-to put in its place a hive with combs containing a little honey and
-pollen. The robbers, instead of scattering and entering adjacent hives,
-will continue to visit the same stand, their numbers gradually diminishing
-as the honey gives out and the pollen is sucked dry. If meanwhile
-the entrances of adjoining hives have been contracted and these
-colonies are fairly strong and in normal condition, individual robbers
-will be successively repulsed as they appear. Quiet will thus be eventually
-restored.</p>
-
-
-<h3>LAYING WORKERS.</h3>
-
-<p>Although laying workers are not strictly enemies of their kind, their
-work hastens the extinction of the colony to which they belong, in case
-the latter has become queenless and is without the means of rearing
-another queen. They cause the expenditure of the stores and strength
-of the colonies in a vain though well-meant endeavor to perpetuate
-their species; the eggs which laying workers deposit, and for whose
-development through the larval stage much honey and pollen are
-<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">- 118 -</span>
-required, only resulting in the production of a lot of drones, for the
-most part weak and dwarfed.</p>
-
-<p>If not discovered until the hive is nearly depopulated, the remaining
-old bees should be brushed off, and the combs, after the sealed drone
-brood has been unmapped and jarred out, may be distributed among
-other colonies. Should the affected colony still be worth saving, combs
-containing emerging bees should be added and a queen introduced a
-few days later, or a queen cell inserted, as soon as the added brood has
-stocked the hive well with young bees.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="BOOKS_AND_JOURNALS_RELATING_TO_APICULTURE"><b>BOOKS AND JOURNALS RELATING TO APICULTURE.</b></h2>
-</div>
-
-<p>The following are among the leading books and journals relating to
-apiculture:</p>
-
-<p class="caption3nb">BOOKS.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
- <p>Langstroth on the Honey Bee. Revised edition, 1889. By Chas. Dadant
- &amp; Son.</p>
-
- <p>Quinby's New Bee Keeping; or The Mysteries of Bee Keeping Explained.
- 1884. By L. C. Root.</p>
-
- <p>The A B C of Bee Culture: A Cyclop&aelig;dia of Everything Pertaining to the
- Care of the Honey Bee. By A. I. Root.</p>
-
- <p>Advanced Bee Culture: Its Methods and Management. 1891. By W. Z.
- Hutchinson.</p>
-
- <p>Bees and Bee Keeping, Scientific and Practical. By Frank R. Cheshire.
- In two volumes: Vol. I (scientific), Vol. II (practical). Published
- in London, England.</p>
-
- <p>The Bee Keeper's Guide; or Manual of the Apiary. By A. J. Cook.</p>
-
- <p>A Modern Bee Farm and its Economic Management. By S. Simmins. Published
- in London, England.</p>
-
- <p>The Blessed Bees. By John Allen.</p>
-
- <p>Bee Keeping for Profit. By Dr. G. L. Tinker.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p class="caption3nb">JOURNALS.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
- <p>The American Bee Journal. Weekly. Chicago, Ill.</p>
- <p>Gleanings in Bee Culture. Semimonthly. Medina, Ohio.</p>
- <p>The Bee Keepers' Review. Monthly. Flint, Mich.</p>
- <p>The American Bee Keeper. Monthly. Falconer, N. Y.</p>
- <p>The Progressive Bee Keeper. Monthly. Higginsville, Mo.</p>
- <p>The Southland Queen. Monthly. Beeville, Texas.</p>
- <p>The Western Bee Keeper. Monthly. Denver, Colo.</p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap" />
-
-<hr class="tb" />
-
-<div class="transnote">
-
-<p class="caption3nb">Transcriber Note</p>
-
-<p>Minor typos corrected. Illustrations repositioned where they split paragraphs.</p>
-
-</div>
-
-
-
-
-
-<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK USDA, BULLETIN NO. 1. (N.S.) THE HONEY BEE: A MANUAL OF INSTRUCTION IN APICULTURE ***</div>
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