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- height: auto; -} - -.figcenter { - margin: auto; - text-align: center; - page-break-inside: avoid; - max-width: 100%; -} - -.figleft { - float: left; - clear: left; - margin-left: 0; - margin-bottom: 1em; - margin-top: 1em; - margin-right: 1em; - padding: 0; - text-align: center; - page-break-inside: avoid; - max-width: 100%; -} -/* comment out next line and uncomment the following one for floating figleft on ebookmaker output */ -.x-ebookmaker .figleft {float: none; text-align: center; margin-right: 0;} -/* .x-ebookmaker .figleft {float: left;} */ - -.figright { - float: right; - clear: right; - margin-left: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - margin-top: 1em; - margin-right: 0; - padding: 0; - text-align: center; - page-break-inside: avoid; - max-width: 100%; -} -/* comment out next line and uncomment the following one for floating figright on ebookmaker output */ -.x-ebookmaker .figright {float: none; text-align: center; margin-left: 0;} -/* .x-ebookmaker .figright {float: right;} */ - -/* Footnotes */ -.footnote {} - -.footnote { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; - font-size: 0.9em; - border: 1px dashed;} - -.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} - -.fnanchor { - vertical-align: super; - font-size: .8em; - text-decoration: - none; -} - -/* Poetry */ -.poetry-container {text-align: center;} -.poetry { text-align: left; - display: inline-block; - margin-left: 5%; - margin-right: 5%;} -/* uncomment the next line for centered poetry in browsers */ -/* .poetry {display: inline-block;} */ -.poetry .stanza {margin: 1em auto;} -.poetry .verse {text-indent: -3em; padding-left: 3em;} - -/* large inline blocks don't split well on paged devices */ -@media print { .poetry {display: block;} } -.x-ebookmaker .poetry {display: block;} - -/* Transcriber's notes */ -.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:smaller; - padding:0.5em; - margin-bottom:5em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif; } - -/* Poetry indents */ -.poetry .indent0 {text-indent: -3em;} -.poetry .indent12 {text-indent: 3em;} -.poetry .indent2 {text-indent: -2em;} -.poetry .indent4 {text-indent: -1em;} -.poetry .indent6 {text-indent: 0em;} - - - </style> - </head> -<body> -<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Cruise of the Royal Mail Steamer Dunottar Castle Round Scotland on Her Trial Trip, by W. Scott Dalgleish</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: The Cruise of the Royal Mail Steamer Dunottar Castle Round Scotland on Her Trial Trip</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: W. Scott Dalgleish</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: April 26, 2022 [eBook #67928]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Fay Dunn, Fiona Holmes and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CRUISE OF THE ROYAL MAIL STEAMER DUNOTTAR CASTLE ROUND SCOTLAND ON HER TRIAL TRIP ***</div> - - - - -<div class="transnote"> -<h2>Transcriber’s Notes</h2> - -<p>Hyphenation has been standardised.</p> - -<p>In the Illustration list the page number 32 was missing and - has been included.</p> - -<p>On <a href="#Page_v" title="">Page v</a>, the word Cathedra has been changed to Cathedral (drawings of the - Cathedral and the Earl’s Palace at Kirkwall).</p> -</div> - - - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_cover"><img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="" width="764" height="1000" /></a> -</div> - -<p class="space-above4"></p> - -<p class="center"><i>With Sir Donald Currie’s Compliments.</i></p> - -<p class="space-above4"></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_title"><img src="images/i_title.jpg" alt="" width="534" height="800" /></a> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p class="space-above4"></p> - -<div class="title-page"> -<p class="center"> THE CRUISE OF</p> - -<p class="center p80"> THE ROYAL MAIL STEAMER</p> - -<p class="center"> Dunottar Castle</p> - -<p class="center"> ROUND SCOTLAND ON HER TRIAL TRIP</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_003"><img src="images/i_003.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="196" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Dunottar Castle</em></p> -</div> - -<p class="space-above4"></p> - -<p class="center p60">EDINBURGH<br /> - Printed by T. and A. <span class="smcap">Constable</span><br /> - Printers to Her Majesty</p> - -<p class="center"> 1890</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h1 class="nobreak" id="CRUISE_OF_THE_DUNOTTAR_CASTLE">CRUISE OF THE ‘DUNOTTAR CASTLE’</h1> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_v"></a>[v]</span></p><h2 class="nobreak" id="FOREWORD">FOREWORD</h2> -</div> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_005.jpg" width="90" height="97" alt="T"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">The</span> first suggestion of this Record of -a very charming trip came from <span class="smcap">Sir -Donald Currie</span>, the genial and courteous -Host of our palatial ‘House -Boat.’ Others pressed the task upon -me; but no great pressure was required for so congenial -a work. Indeed, I need hardly say that the preparation -of the story of our Cruise has given me infinite pleasure.</p> - -<p>My efforts have been ably seconded by the artistic skill -of my fellow-guests, Dr. <span class="smcap">Lennox Browne</span> of London, and -Miss <span class="smcap">Cecilia G. Blackwood</span>, whose facile pencils have contributed -to the work many clever and beautiful illustrations. -I am indebted to Mr. <span class="smcap">T. Maclaren</span> for the architectural -drawings of the Cathedral and the Earl’s Palace at Kirkwall; -while a few of the pictures are taken from photographs -by Miss <span class="smcap">Munn</span>, another of our gifted passengers.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_vi"></a>[vi]</span> -The whole have been reproduced with great skill by the -various engravers, with the assistance, and under the -supervision, of Mr. <span class="smcap">John Gulich</span>, who has also contributed -a few original drawings.</p> - -<p>It is perhaps fitting that I should offer an apology to -the good folks on board the ‘Dunottar Castle,’ who may -not have been prepared for this realisation of the words of -the poet:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">‘A chiel’s amang ye takin’ notes,</div> - <div class="verse">And, faith, he’ll prent it.’</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - - -<p class="right">W. SCOTT DALGLEISH.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p><span class="smcap">Edinburgh</span>, <em>October 1890</em>.</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_frontis"><img src="images/i_frontis.jpg" alt="sailing ship" width="450" height="385" /></a> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_vii"></a>[vii]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</h2> - -<table class="toc" summary="Contents"> -<tr> -<td> </td> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdr"><small>PAGE</small></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="chn">I.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Concerning the Good Ship</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_17">17</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="chn">II.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">In the Firth of Clyde</span>,</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="chn">III.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Among the Southern Hebrides</span>,</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_30">30</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="chn">IV.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">In the Sound of Mull</span>,</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_35">35</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="chn">V.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Round about Skye</span>,</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="chn">VI.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Wild Loch Alsh and Dark Loch Duich</span>,</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="chn">VII.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Round Cape Wrath</span>,</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="chn">VIII.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">A Raid on Orkney</span>,</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_70">70</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="chn">IX.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Our Ship’s Name-Mother</span>,</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="chn">X.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">A Day of Rest</span>,</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="chn">XI.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Homeward Bound</span>,</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td> -</tr><tr> - <td class="chn">XII.</td> - <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">In the Firth of Forth</span>,</td> - <td class="right"><a href="#Page_92">92</a></td> -</tr><tr> -<th></th> -<td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Epilogue</span>,</td> -<td class="right"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></td> -</tr> -</table> -</div> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_viii"></a>[viii]</span></p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="ILLUSTRATIONS">ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_ix"></a>[ix]</span></p> -<table class="toi" summary="Illustrations"> - <tr> - <th></th> - <th>ARTIST</th> - <th></th> - <th>ENGRAVER</th> - </tr><tr> - <td>R.M.S. ‘Dunottar Castle’</td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#image_frontis"><em>Frontispiece</em>.</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Dunottar Castle from the Shore</td> - <td><em>John Blair</em></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>C. Hentschel</em></td> - <td class="pag1"><em>Vignette Title</em>.</td> - </tr><tr> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - <td class="pag"><small>PAGE</small></td> -</tr><tr> - <td>The Music Saloon</td> - <td><em>John Gulich</em></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>John Swain</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>A Corner of the Ladies’ Boudoir</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>The Smoking-room</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>The Main-Deck</td> - <td><em>M. Munn</em> (<em>Photo.</em>)</td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>The Ship on the Stocks at Fairfield</td> - <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Arran—from the Firth of Clyde</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Lamlash Bay and Holy Isle</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>John Swain</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_28">28</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Scarba and the Isles—from Mull</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#image_031">31</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Loch Buy Head—from Carsaig</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#image_031a">31</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Outside of Kerrera—Ben Cruachan - in the distance</td> - <td><em>Cecelia G. Blackwood</em></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Dunolly Castle, Oban</td> - <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>John Swain</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>The ‘Iolanthe’ off Oban—Rainy Weather</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Oban and the Bay</td> - <td>(<em>From Photograph</em>)</td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Oban Pier</td> - <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>The Mull Hills—from Kerrera</td> - <td><em>C. G. Blackwood</em></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_35">35</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Lismore Lighthouse</td> - <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>John Swain</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Castle Duart, Mull</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Calve Island, Tobermory</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>John Swain</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#image_038">38</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Ardnamurchan Point</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_39">39</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Loch Sunart</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_40">40</a></td> -<td><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_x"></a>[x]</span></p></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>The Narrows—Loch Sunart</td> - <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>John Swain</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_40">40</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Mist Rainbow on Ardnamurchan—off - Tobermory Lighthouse</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Glengorm, Mull</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>The Trishnish Islands</td> - <td class="cht1"> <i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td> <em>John Swain</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_42">42</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Distant View of Staffa</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>The Pilot and a Tobermory Lassie</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Ardtornish Castle</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>The ‘Iolanthe’ off Eigg and Rum</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Loch Scavaig</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td> Mountains in Mist—Skye</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Detached Rocks—Coast of Skye</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td> Near Strome Ferry</td> - <td><em>C. G. Blackwood</em></td> - <td></td> - <td> <em>Hare and Co.</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_51">51</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Outside of Portree Bay—Sunrise</td> - <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>John Swain</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Scalpa Island, Skye</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Whale blowing—off Skye</td> - <td><em>M. Munn (Photo.)</em></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Loch Carron—from Strome - Ferry</td> - <td> <em>Lennox Browne</em></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_54">54</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Head of Loch Carron—from - Strome Ferry </td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_54">54</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td> Misty Morning—Loch Carron</td> - <td><em>C. G. Blackwood</em></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_55">55</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>The Coolins—the ‘Dunottar Castle’</td> - <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>John Swain</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_55">55</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Kyle Akin</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_56">56</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Castle Maoil—near Kyle Akin</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>John Swain</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_57">57</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>In Loch Alsh—Skye in the Distance</td> - <td><em>C. G. Blackwood</em></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_57">57</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td> Eilean Donan Castle, Loch Duich</td> - <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Entrance to Loch Duich</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Head of Loch Duich</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td> <em>Hare and Co.</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>The Coolins—from Loch Alsh</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_60">60</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Sammy and the Piper</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>John Swain</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_61">61</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Head of Loch Kishorn</td> - <td><em>C. G. Blackwood</em></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_62">62</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xi"></a>[xi]</span></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Rona Island—Lewis and Harris - in the distance</td> - <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>John Swain</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Summer Sheen—in Skye Waters</td> - <td><em>M. Munn</em> (<em>Photo.</em>)</td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>The Coolins—Blaven—Marsco</td> - <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Cape Wrath</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>John Swain</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_66">66</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Thurso—from the Bay</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td> The Old Man of Hoy</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>John Swain</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_68">68</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Copinsay Island, Orkney</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_70">70</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td> Kirkwall—from the Bay</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>John Swain</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_71">71</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>The Earl’s Palace, Kirkwall</td> - <td><em>T. Maclaren</em></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td> Gable of the Earl’s Palace, Kirkwall</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_73">73</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>West Door, Kirkwall Cathedral</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Dunottar Castle—from a Port-hole</td> - <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_77">77</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Dunottar Castle in the Olden Time</td> - <td>(<cite>From an old Print</cite>)</td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht2">. . .</td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Montrose—from the Sea</td> - <td><cite>Lennox Browne</cite></td> - <td></td> - <td><cite>John Swain</cite></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_82">82</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Entrance to Loch Torridon</td> - <td><cite>C. G. Blackwood</cite></td> - <td></td> - <td><cite>Hare and Co.</cite></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_86">86</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>The Bell Rock Lighthouse </td> - <td><cite>Lennox Browne</cite></td> - <td></td> - <td><cite>John Swain</cite></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>May Island</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_88">88</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Tantallon Castle </td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_88">88</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>The Bass Rock</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_90">90</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Inchkeith</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_91">91</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>Edinburgh—from Leith Roads</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_92">92</a></td> - </tr><tr> - <td>The Tug in Leith Roads</td> - <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td> - <td></td> - <td><em>John Swain</em></td> - <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td> - </tr> -</table> -</div> - - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_011"><img src="images/i_011.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="192" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">From Leith Roads</span></p> -</div> - -<p class="space-above4"></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xii"></a>[xii]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_012"><img src="images/i_012.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="596" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Dunottar Castle from the Shore</em></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xiii"></a>[xiii]</span></p> - -<h2>THE LOG</h2> - - -<p>1890.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p><em>August 30. Saturday.</em>—Sailed from Greenock, down the Firth of -Clyde, and round Arran. Anchored in Lamlash Bay.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p><em>31. Sunday.</em>—Sailed round Mull of Cantire, and through the -Sound of Islay. Met the ‘Iolanthe.’ Anchored off -north point of Kerrera.</p> -</div> - -<p><em>Sept. 1. Monday.</em>—Lay at anchor all day. Visited Oban.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p><em>2. Tuesday.</em>—Sailed up Sound of Mull. Visited Ardnamurchan, -Loch Sunart, and Trishnish Islands in ‘Iolanthe.’ -Anchored at Tobermory.</p> - -<p><em>3. Wednesday.</em>—Sailed between Eigg and Rum to Loch -Scavaig. Visited Loch Coruisk. Sailed round Skye. -Anchored off Portree.</p> - -<p><em>4. Thursday.</em>—Visited Strome Ferry, Loch Alsh, and Loch -Duich in ‘Iolanthe.’ Anchored in Loch Kishorn.</p> - -<p><em>5. Friday.</em>—Sailed up west coast, round Cape Wrath, and -along north coast. Anchored in Scrabster Roads, -Thurso.</p> - -<p><em>6. Saturday.</em>—Sailed through Pentland Firth, to Kirkwall -in the Orkneys. Anchored in Kirkwall Bay. -Visited Kirkwall Cathedral, the Maeshowe, and the -Stones of Brogar and Stenness. Started at 6 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span> -and sailed southward.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xiv"></a>[xiv]</span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p><em>7. Sunday.</em>—Sailed past Aberdeen, Stonehaven, Dunottar -Castle, Montrose, the Bass Rock, etc. Anchored at -Leith.</p> - -<p><em>8. Monday.</em>—Visited the Forth Bridge in the ‘Iolanthe.’ -Ship visited by Corporations of Edinburgh and Leith, -and by the public. Guests debarked. Ship sailed for -London in the evening.</p> - </div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_014"><img src="images/i_014.jpg" alt="" width="187" height="300" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xv"></a>[xv]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xvi"></a>[xvi]</span></p> -<p class="center p120">CRUISE OF THE ‘DUNOTTAR CASTLE’</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17"></a>[17]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="I">I</h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">CONCERNING THE GOOD SHIP</p> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_017.jpg" width="90" height="97" alt="T"/> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">The</span> ‘Dunottar Castle’ is the twenty-first ship built for the -‘Castle’ Company, and is the largest, and in all respects the most -perfect, of all the vessels engaged in the South African Royal Mail -Service. This fine vessel was built by the Fairfield Shipbuilding and -Engineering Company of Govan, Glasgow, under the direction of Mr. Saxon -White, the Manager of that Company, and the supervision of Mr. John -List and Mr. George Scott of the ‘Castle’ Line. The fact that the ship -was ordered from the Fairfield Company without competing contracts -being invited from other firms, is a proof of the confidence which Sir -Donald Currie had in the builders.</p> - -<p>This is especially noteworthy when the dimensions and the capacity -of the ship are remembered. She exceeds the largest of her sister -ships, the ‘Roslin Castle’ by 1000 tons, the gross tonnage of the -‘Dunottar Castle’ being nearly 5500 tons, and her net tonnage 3069. -Her length is 435 feet; the extreme breadth is 50 feet; and she is -36 feet<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18"></a>[18]</span> deep. -The hull is constructed entirely of steel, with a continuous double -cellular bottom, and with eight vertical bulk-heads, which extend to -the upper deck, and divide the ship into nine water-tight compartments. -The engines are of the triple-expansion type, the cylinders being -respectively 38 inches, 61½ inches, and 100 inches in diameter, with -a stroke of 5 feet 6 inches. Between 6000 and 7000 horse-power can be -developed. Steam is supplied at a pressure of 160 lbs. to the square -inch, by four large steam boilers and a supplementary boiler, each with -six corrugated furnaces.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_018"><img src="images/i_018.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="587" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">The Music Saloon</span></p> -</div> - -<p>The steamer has accommodation for 360 passengers—170 -first class, 100 second class, and 100 third class; but the last -class is capable of being increased by 150 at least. The <span -class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19"></a>[19]</span> crew consists of 150 -officers and men, commanded by Captain Webster, the senior Captain of -the ‘Castle’ Company. Each of the dining saloons accommodates at one -time the whole complement of passengers assigned to it,—a point -of no small importance, as the trouble and worry of double meals are -thereby avoided. The ship is admirably equipped in every particular, -and the furnishings are of the most elegant character. The first-class -dining saloon is a very handsome apartment, with panelled walls and -dado, and is furnished throughout with refined taste. Abaft of this -saloon, there is a supplementary saloon for children and nurses. -Forming a spacious gallery above the dining saloon is the music-room, -which is beautifully decorated in white and gold, and exquisitely -furnished in old-gold upholstery. Adjoining this, and separated from it -by a handsome screen of bevelled glass, is the ladies’ boudoir, which -is also most luxuriously furnished.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_019"><img src="images/i_019.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="518" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">A corner of the Ladies’ Boudoir</span></p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20"></a>[20]</span></p> - -<p>A notable feature of this part of the ship is the spacious double -staircase, leading from the saloon to the main and upper decks. Like -the saloon itself, it is handsomely decorated with solid panels, -and every detail is conceived and executed in good taste. Abaft the -main deck state-rooms, there is a handsome and very comfortable -smoking-room, with bar attached, which is much superior to the -ordinary smoking-rooms of ocean-going steamers, in respect both of -size and of furnishings. Behind the staircase on the upper deck is -the reading-room, which contains writing-tables, book-shelves, and -lounges.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_020"><img src="images/i_020.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="560" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">The Smoking room</span></p> -</div> - -<p>This may be the proper place to mention that the -ship’s library, of nearly five hundred volumes, is exceedingly<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21"></a>[21]</span> -attractive and well selected. It contains many standard -works in history, travels, and fiction, including some of the -most recent publications. It also contains valuable books -of reference, in the shape of atlases and gazetteers, and a -representative selection of music, including Scottish, English, -and Irish songs and glees. The man or the woman would -be very difficult to please who could not find within the ship -itself, with its pianos, organ, and library, ample resources -for spending pleasantly and profitably three or four weeks -at sea.</p> - -<p>The promenade deck is exceptionally spacious, and affords ample -room for those recreations with which time is wont to be beguiled -in tropical seas. The first-class state-rooms are fitted up in a -very handsome, luxurious style, with iron spring-beds, sofas, and -lavatories, all constructed on the most approved principles.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_021"><img src="images/i_021.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="570" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>The Main-Deck.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>The intermediate sleeping-berths differ but little, in point -of comfort and convenience, from those assigned to first-class -passengers; and the dining-saloon, which has its own -piano and organ, is infinitely superior to what we were -accustomed to in old-fashioned steamers. The third-class<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22"></a>[22]</span> -accommodation is altogether superior to that provided in -the general run of ocean-going steamers.</p> - -<p>The sanitary arrangements include some special features, -one of which is an improved system of ventilation with compressed -air. Marble baths, and all the most approved -lavatory appliances, are provided in sumptuous fashion. A -novel luxury in the ‘Castle’ liners is a barber’s shop, with a -rotatory hair-brushing machine worked by an electric motor. -Indeed, scarcely anything is lacking which could be desired -by the most fastidious traveller on shore.</p> - -<p>One of the greatest charms of the ship is the electric -lighting, which is carried out on a perfect scale. Nothing -has done so much as the introduction of the electric light -to make ocean-travelling comfortable and safe. It is -bright and cleanly, and it is always available. It is an -immense advantage to be able to turn on a bright light -in your state-room at any moment. The evening hours -in the saloon, instead of being dreary, are looked forward -to with pleasure, and are thoroughly enjoyed. In point -of fact, the saloon is quite as brilliant at night as during -the day.</p> - -<p>The decks also are brightly lighted up at night with -electric cluster lights, as well as with single lamps, so that -dancing and other recreations can be carried on with the -greatest comfort. The ship’s band of ten or twelve instruments -is also an excellent institution, which does much to -relieve the tedium of the voyage.</p> - -<p>The rapidity with which the ‘Dunottar Castle’ was -got into working order speaks well for the resources and -the organising power of the Clyde shipbuilders. When the -ship was launched at Govan, on May 22d, she was a mere<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23"></a>[23]</span> -hulk—a huge steel case intersected with a few floors and -partitions. When the trial trip took place on August 28th, -exactly fourteen weeks later, she was completely finished, -furnished, and manned, and was ready in every particular to -undertake a long voyage. Those who saw her at the Tail -of the Bank, off Greenock, at the latter date, had some -difficulty in believing that she was the same vessel. Everything -was in its place, down to the minutest curtain-ring -and the smallest carpet-tack; and every man was at his -post, from the Captain to the cabin-boy.</p> - -<p>The behaviour of the ship on the trial trip was admirable, -and left nothing to be desired. The day was splendid, -and everything went well. The ship attained a speed of -17½ knots on the measured mile, off Skelmorlie, and both -builders and owners were satisfied with the results, as they -had good reason to be.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_023"><img src="images/i_023.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="408" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>The Ship on the Stocks—May 22, 1890.</em></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24"></a>[24]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="II">II</h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">IN THE FIRTH OF CLYDE</p> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_024.jpg" width="90" height="97" alt=""/> -</div> -<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">The</span> trial cruise will not soon be forgotten by those who were -privileged to take part in it. The trip was worthy of the great ship, -and worthy of the famous ‘Castle’ Line. The strangers and foreigners, -the Englishmen and the colonists, who were of the party, had an -opportunity of seeing all that is grandest in Scottish coast-scenery, -such as is enjoyed by few natives; and every Scotsman on board must -have felt proud of his country.</p> - -<p>The course taken was the converse of that of Agricola, -when his galleys sailed round Scotland, and proved for the -first time that Britain was an island. While the Romans -sailed, or rather rowed in open galleys, from the Firth of -Forth to the Firth of Clyde, the ‘Dunottar Castle’ pleasure-party -steamed from the Clyde to the Forth in a veritable -floating palace, replete with the comforts of advanced civilisation, -and embodying the most recent developments of -science in the applications of steam and of electricity. The -contrast is almost too great to be appreciated even by the -most imaginative modern mind. It is difficult to realise -what the feelings of James Watt, or of Henry Bell, would<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25"></a>[25]</span> -be were they permitted to see to what perfection the -results of their inventive genius have been brought by -their successors.</p> - -<p>Perhaps few of those who entered on the expedition -realised the useful purposes which it served. They thought -only of the pleasant holiday provided for them; but in -truth it answered a more practical and more important end. -It was, in fact, a preliminary trial, in which the crew and -all the officers, including the stewards, were put through -their facings, and in which the commissariat and other -resources of the management were subjected to a pretty -severe test. The whole routine of the daily life was precisely -similar to that which will prevail in the regular -voyages of the ship from London to the Cape, and it is -but just to say that the results were entirely satisfactory.</p> - -<p>The ‘Dunottar Castle’ presented a splendid appearance -as she rode at anchor at the Tail of the Bank, off -Greenock, on Saturday, August 30th, awaiting the arrival of -the invited guests of Sir Donald Currie. Being light of -draught, she lay high in the water, and made everything -else in the neighbourhood, even an American liner, look small -in comparison, while her beautiful lines were seen to the -greatest advantage. On board, everything was ship-shape -and in good order; and when Sir Donald Currie, on his -arrival from Garth, was received on the main deck about -noon, by Captain Webster and his officers, it might have -been supposed that the steamer had been in commission -for years, and was undergoing an inspection on her return -from one of her ocean voyages.</p> - -<p>The view from the upper deck was magnificent. Few -scenes in the British Isles can compare in beauty and variety<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26"></a>[26]</span> -with the estuary of the Clyde opposite Greenock. We -stood in the centre of a wide cyclorama, nearly every point -in which glowed in brilliant sunshine. Greenock alone was -dark and murky, as is its wont. Even Gourock gleamed in -colour, as it caught the sun’s rays emerging from the mists. -Dumbarton Castle loomed large in the warm haze to the -eastward. Helensburgh basked peacefully on its wooded -slopes. Kilcreggan and Cove smiled in their leafy bowers, -while beyond them Ben Lomond raised on high its massive -head. Westward, the rugged ridge of the Arrochar Hills -and Argyll’s Bowling Green filled up the distance. Then -the line of view descended again at Strone Point, and the -placid Holy Loch, and the bright villas of Hunter’s Quay, -and so the circuit was complete.</p> - -<p>When the last tug-load of passengers and luggage had -been received on board, the anchor was weighed, and the -majestic ship steamed down the Firth past the Cloch lighthouse, -past Castle Wemyss, and Wemyss Bay, and Skelmorlie, -on the one side, and past Dunoon and Inellan on -the other. Off the Greater Cumbrae we lay-to, in order -to receive on board Lord Provost Muir of Glasgow, who, -with his brother Commissioners of the Clyde Trust, had -been engaged in an inspection of the lighthouses on these -coasts. Their little steamer drew up alongside, and the -Commissioners were courteously received on board and -were shown over the ship. The Commissioners, <em>minus</em> the -Lord Provost, were dismissed with a cheer, and we proceeded -on our way.</p> - -<p>Passing Rothesay Bay and Mount Stuart House, one of the -Marquis of Bute’s residences, we enter a wider sea, and get -a fine view of Goatfell and the rugged peaks of Arran which<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27"></a>[27]</span> -surround Glen Sannox. Opposite that weird glen, of evil -omen, we turn northward, and steam past the Fallen Rocks, -and round the north point of Arran into Kilbrannan Sound, -our purpose being to sail round Arran and to anchor for -the night in Lamlash Bay. We have a pleasant glimpse, -in passing, of Loch Ranza and its rugged keep, and of the -valleys and ‘cols’ that lead over to Glen Sannox and Glen -Rosa. The west coast of Arran, however, is distinctly -tame, and gives few tokens of cultivation and industry, until -we approach the south end of the island. There are, indeed, -more signs of an active population on the peninsula of -Cantire, on our right. Arran, however, can boast of historical, -or at least of traditional, interest, for the King’s -Cave, near Blackwaterfoot, is said to have been the first -resting-place of Robert the Bruce on his landing from -Rathlin Island.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_027"><img src="images/i_027.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="261" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Arran—from the Firth of Clyde.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>As we steam southward, that island and the Irish coast -are clearly visible beyond the Mull of Cantire. Looking -back from this point, the picturesque outline of the mountains -in the north of Arran stands out boldly against the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28"></a>[28]</span> -northern sky, while southward we see Ailsa Craig and -its pale grey rocks, with their myriads of gannets. By-and-by, -in the gloamin’, we pass Whiting Bay, in which at least -half a hundred small boats are busily engaged in deep-sea -fishing. Then we steam cautiously between Holy Island -and King’s Cross Point (another landmark of the Bruce) -into Lamlash Bay, where we drop anchor, and prepare to -dine in peace.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_028"><img src="images/i_028.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="301" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Lamlash Bay and Holy Isle.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>We then begin to realise the importance of the fact -that our cruise is to be one of pleasure, as well as of practical -use, in a sense not previously thought of. We are -to steam ahead during daylight, and our nights are to be -spent peacefully at anchor in quiet waters. The arrangement -is not only comfortable on that account, but is also -convenient, inasmuch as we shall miss very little of the -coast-scenery—none of it, indeed, if we are careful to rise -betimes.</p> - -<p>As we lay at our anchorage, we had an opportunity of -realising what the electric light has done for navigation, not<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29"></a>[29]</span> -merely in the brilliant lighting of our own ship, but in that -of several of the Clyde steamers. When the ‘Duchess of -Hamilton,’ a coasting steamer, passed through the bay with -her lights gleaming, she might have been a floating firework -displayed for our special gratification.</p> - -<p>Calmly and peacefully the night was passed. Some -spent an hour pleasantly in the Music Saloon, under the -spell of music and song. Others found more congenial -occupation in the Smoking-room. Not a few lingered on -deck till a late hour, bewitched by the galaxy of stars, or -watching the glimmering lights of the Lamlash cottages, -as, one by one, they succumbed to the demands of repose, -and bade us a silent ‘good-night.’ One or two adventurous -rowing boats came out at a late hour to inspect the monster -of the deep that had suddenly disturbed the quiet of the -bay; but the plash of their oars soon died away, and our -little world was left in a silence that was felt.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_029"><img src="images/i_029.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="236" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Ailsa Craig.</em></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30"></a>[30]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="III">III</h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">AMONG THE SOUTHERN HEBRIDES</p> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_030.jpg" width="90" height="87" alt=""/> -</div> -<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">If</span> the denizens of Lamlash were looking forward to obtaining a -good view of the ‘Dunottar Castle’ next day (Sunday), they must have -been grievously disappointed, for we made an early start, and were -out of the bay before the majority of them were out of their beds. By -seven o’clock, we had rounded the Mull of Cantire, and were beginning -to feel the swell of the Atlantic. The morning was clear and crisp, -and both sea and sky seemed joyous in the sunshine. Nearly every one -was on deck for an hour before breakfast, and the sharp air was most -exhilarating.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_031"><img src="images/i_031.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="452" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Scarba and the Isles—from Mull.</em></p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_031a"><img src="images/i_031a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="343" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Loch Buy Head—from Carsaig, Mull.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>The Irish coast remained in sight for several hours; but still more -attractive was the view of the west coast of Cantire. Machrihanish -Bay awakened pleasant memories in the golfers on board. They had been -there, and still would go; and very tempting the bay looked with its -gleaming sands and sparkling wavelets. Our course now lay through the -Sound of Islay, which runs between that island and its sister Jura. -Long before we reached the Sound, we were once more in quiet water -under the lee of Islay, and with the well-marked Paps of Jura right -ahead. In the Sound, the sea was absolutely still, and there we had -morning service,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31"></a>[31]</span> -reverently conducted by Captain Webster, Sir Donald Currie reading -the lessons. Shortly afterwards we met, by appointment, our host’s -large steam yacht, the ‘Iolanthe,’<span class="pagenum"><a -id="Page_32"></a>[32]</span> which attended us during the remainder -of our cruise, and added greatly to our enjoyment by taking us into -narrow and shallow lochs and sounds into which the great ship could -not have ventured. Mr. James Currie, of Leith, with his family, was -on board, and did all in his power to render our voyage an agreeable -one. The interest of the sail increased as we passed northward between -Jura and Colonsay. The weather was superb. The Sabbath calm seemed to -have settled down on hill and sea. It was a day for lounging on deck, -and for gazing at the summer sky, or on the Islands of the Blest which -surrounded us.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_032"><img src="images/i_032.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="370" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Outside of Kerrera—Ben Cruachan in the distance.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>We were prepared for a toss at the Strait of Corrievreckan; -but though the boiling of the tide was perceptible -to the eye, it was unappreciable by any other sense, at -least to those in the massive ‘Dunottar Castle.’ As we -crossed the Firth of Lorne, the mountains of Argyllshire -came into full view, Ben Cruachan and Ben More of Mull -being specially conspicuous. Off Scarba, we made a wide -detour westward in the direction of the Ross of Mull, so -that we might see its cliffs and caves and the shores of -dark Loch Buy.</p> - -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33"></a>[33]</span> -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_033"><img src="images/i_033.jpg" alt="" width="508" height="550" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Dunolly Castle, Oban.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>Toward evening, we reached our anchorage at the northern point of -Kerrera, but outside of Oban Bay, which is crowded at this season with -yachts and other small craft. We were opposite to David Hutchison’s -monument, set up near the scene of his labours, to remind travellers of -the great things which he did for them, and for Scotland, in opening up -the Western Highlands to swift steamer traffic. We had also a distant -view of Dunolly Castle, the ancestral home of the Macdougalls. Evening -service was conducted by Sir Arthur Blackwood, Secretary of the General -Post-Office, London; and the earnestness and freshness of his address -were highly appreciated.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_033a"><img src="images/i_033a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="418" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>The ‘Iolanthe’ off Oban—Rainy Weather.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>The weather changed in the night, and we awoke to find ourselves -enveloped in mist and in drizzling rain. A projected trip up Loch -Linnhe to Ballachulish was consequently abandoned; and we spent the -whole day at our anchorage, awaiting the arrival of expected guests -at Oban, who were brought off in the ‘Iolanthe,’ and thence in the -steam<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34"></a>[34]</span> launch. -Those of us who were so inclined had thus an opportunity of seeing the -capital of the Western Highlands, though not under the most favourable -conditions; of visiting its attractive shops, and of admiring, though -at a safe distance, its numerous or innumerable hotels. When it rains -on this coast it does so with a vengeance. In fine weather Oban is one -of the most beautiful places in Scotland; on a wet day it is one of the -most disagreeable under heaven.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_034"><img src="images/i_034.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="231" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>View of Oban and Bay.</em></p> -</div> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_034a"><img src="images/i_034a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="493" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Oban Pier.</em></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35"></a>[35]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="IV">IV</h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">IN THE SOUND OF MULL</p> - - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_035a"><img src="images/i_035a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="424" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>The Mull Hills—from Kerrera.</em></p> -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_035.jpg" width="90" height="89" alt=""/> -</div> -<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">Next</span> morning (Tuesday) finds us in the Sound of Mull, one of the -most beautiful and romantic of Highland seas. The lighthouse full -astern stands on the point of the island of Lismore, anciently the seat -of the Bishops of Argyll, and still more famous as the home of its -Dean, James Macgregor, who, in the sixteenth century, made a valuable -collection of poems in Gaelic and English, well known as the ‘Book of -the Dean of Lismore.’ The picturesque ruin at<span class="pagenum"><a -id="Page_36"></a>[36]</span> the entrance to the Sound, on the eastmost -point of Mull, is Duart Castle, the home of the Macleans. Not far off -is the ‘Lady Rock,’ which disappears at high-water, and on which one -of the Macleans once left his wife, intending that she should perish -when the tide rose and covered the rock. She was Ellen of Lorne, a -sister of the Earl of Argyll. One of her brothers rescued her, and -afterwards slew Maclean. Such stories are common in these regions: -they cling, like the ivy, to every ruined tower. These traditions of -lawlessness and vengeance formed the greater part of the education of -the people.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_036"><img src="images/i_036.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="427" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Lismore Lighthouse.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>By and by we pass on the right Ardtornish Castle, a -stronghold of the Lords of the Isles, and memorable as the -site of the opening of Scott’s poem:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">‘Thy rugged halls, Ardtornish! rung,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And the dark seas, thy towers that lave,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Heaved on the beach a softer wave,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">As ’mid the tuneful choir to keep</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The diapason of the Deep.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Lulled were the winds on Inninmore,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And green Loch Aline’s woodland shore,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">As if wild woods and waves had pleasure</div> - <div class="verse indent0">In listing to the lovely measure.’</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37"></a>[37]</span></p> -<p>The ruins of Ardtornish are near the entrance to -Loch Aline, and under the shadow of the massive and bare -hills of Morven. These hills had a never-ending charm for -Dr. Norman M‘Leod, whose native village of Morven lies -on the east coast of the Sound, nearly opposite Tobermory. -The Sound to-day is in one of its angry moods: clouds -obscure the sun; mists cling to the mountains, and the -sullen sky is reflected in the fretful sea.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_037"><img src="images/i_037.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="418" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Castle Duart—Mull.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>Presently we pass on the left the ruins of Aros Castle, another of -those rock-built fortresses which are so numerous on these coasts. The -stupendous mountain-wall which appears to close up the Sound at the -north end is the rocky peninsula of Ardnamurchan, the most westerly -point on the British mainland. At its base stands yet another ruined -castle, that of Mingarry, also a stronghold of the Lords of the Isles, -and woven with warp of treachery and woof of heroism into their -adventurous story.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_038"><img src="images/i_038.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="372" /></a> -<p class="caption center">Calve Isl<sup>d</sup>. Tobermory</p> -</div> - -<p>Passing Tobermory Bay, to which we shall return by-and-by, -we sail beyond Ardnamurchan Point, and have a distant -view of the Scuir of Eigg and the graceful outline -of the mountains of Rum. The mists lift somewhat, -and give us a view of the north coast of Mull, -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38"></a>[38]<br /><a id="Page_39"></a>[39]</span>and of the bold beetling headland of Ardnamurchan, -with its tall lighthouse thrust out into the sea. Then -we return to Tobermory, the quaint and primitive capital -of Mull, and anchor in its lovely Bay.</p> - -<p>The village, which, like a few other places in the Highlands, -looks best at a distance, skirts two sides of the Bay. -The western banks are steep and richly wooded. On the -east, the Bay is cut off from the sea by the small island of -Calve, which forms a natural breakwater, thus producing -a spacious and very safe anchorage. Aros House, imbedded -in woods, stands on the south side of the Bay, and near -it there is a very fine waterfall on the stream which -emerges from the Mishnish Lochs—a favourite resort of -anglers. From the deck, a lovely view of the Sound of -Mull is seen over the crest of Calve. The hills in the -distance are dark, but the east shores of the Sound are -lighted up with gleams of sunshine, developing marvellous -combinations of colour.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_039"><img src="images/i_039.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="460" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Ardnamurchan Point.</em></p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40"></a>[40]</span></p> - -<p>The day being still young, the ‘Iolanthe’ is brought into -requisition, and a delightful trip is made up Loch Sunart, a veritable -fiord in its windings, and its narrowness, and its flanking mountains. -As we enter the Loch, we catch one of those occasional and transient -effects which delight artists, but which it is hazardous to paint, and -still more difficult to reproduce without colour. A brilliant rainbow -rests one of its extremities on the massive hill of Ardnamurchan, and -practically cuts it in two; one half of it being melted away under the -changing colours of the arch.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_040"><img src="images/i_040.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="429" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Loch Sunart.</em></p> -</div> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_040a"><img src="images/i_040a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="395" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>The Narrows—Loch Sunart.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>It was during this trip that some members of the party developed -extraordinary skill in the game of deck quoits, while others indulged -in athletic sports of various kinds, terminating in a ‘tug-of-war’ in -which nearly every man and boy on board took part. It was alleged, -however, with<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41"></a>[41]</span> -what truth I know not, that a majority of those on the winning side -wore deck shoes with india-rubber soles. Nevertheless, they maintained -stoutly that ‘it was weight that told.’ The sail up Loch Sunart was -very enjoyable. A fair breeze was blowing, and the sun, which had been -concealed before, burst through the clouds, and shed beauty on the -landscape.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_041"><img src="images/i_041.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="368" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Mist Rainbow on Ardnamurchan—off -Tobermory Lighthouse.</em></p> -</div> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_041a"><img src="images/i_041a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="397" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Glengorm—Mull.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>In the afternoon we embarked on the ‘Iolanthe’ again, and sailed -round the north coast of Mull in fairly good weather, past Ardmore -Point, past Glengorm Castle (the property of Mr. James Cowan), past -Caliach Point, and Calgary Castle with its marvellous silver strand, -and past<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_42"></a>[42]</span> -Trishnish Point, in the direction of the Trishnish Islands. A farmhouse -near Caliach Point has an interest for literary men. Thomas Campbell -the poet spent five months there as tutor when a young man; and there -he first conceived the theme of <em>The Pleasures of Hope</em>. Another -poet has revelled in this region; for the Trishnish Islands belong to -the group described by Scott:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">‘The shores of Mull on the eastward lay,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And Ulva dark, and Colonsay,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And all the group of islets gay</div> - <div class="verse indent2">That guard famed Staffa round.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Then all unknown its columns rose,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Where dark and undisturbed repose</div> - <div class="verse indent2">The cormorant had found,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And the shy seal had quiet home,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And weltered in that wondrous dome,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Where, as to shame the temples decked</div> - <div class="verse indent0">By skill of earthly architect,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Nature herself, it seemed, would raise</div> - <div class="verse indent0">A Minster to her Maker’s praise!’</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_042"><img src="images/i_042.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="295" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>The Trishnish Islands.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>The Trishnish Islands are covered with rich grass, which -makes excellent pasture. The Laird of Calgary fattens his -mutton there during the summer months, and sends out a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43"></a>[43]</span> -yacht once a fortnight to capture two or three sheep for -use. As the animals are as wild and as swift as deer, capturing -them is no easy task. They are generally driven -by a contracting line of men and boys into a trap made -with spars and a sail between two rocks on the shore; but -they often break through the cordon, and even leap sometimes -over the heads of the drivers.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_043"><img src="images/i_043.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="443" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Distant View of Staffa.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>This, however, is a digression. The rough sea, and consideration -for the weaker vessels of the party, male and -female, induced Sir Donald Currie to abandon the intention -of visiting Staffa, with a distant view of which the guests -had to be satisfied. It is noteworthy that this yachting -cruise was the only occasion, during the whole trip, on which -symptoms of sea-sickness showed themselves. It may be -added that the most serious case was that of Sir Donald’s -young piper, who had never been on the sea before; but -scarcely had the yacht been put about when a few blasts of -a pibroch, recalling memories of the braes of Garth and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44"></a>[44]</span> -Glenlyon, gave audible proofs of his convalescence, and -indeed completed the cure. On returning to Tobermory we -landed, and enjoyed a refreshing walk on the shore before -dinner: some exploring the woods about Aros House, and -others climbing to the heights that surround the town, -whence a wider view was obtained.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_044"><img src="images/i_044.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="515" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>The Pilot.</em>——<em>A Tobermory Lassie.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>The evening was given up to recreation, including dancing -to the music of the ship’s band, under the awning on the -promenade deck, which, lighted up with electric lamps, -made a spacious and brilliant ballroom. This was carried -on in presence of nearly the whole population of Tobermory, -which had come out, on Sir Donald’s invitation, to see the -stately ship. The performances were not by any means confined -to the saloon folks. Our stalwart pilot, relieved of his -duties for the night, came out strong in the ‘reels’; and, -having shown his paces in a ‘fling’ with our chief, he was in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45"></a>[45]</span> -great request with the Tobermory lassies, with one of whom -he engaged in a kind of terpsichorean duel, which reminded -the spectators of</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">‘The dancing pair that, simply, sought renown</div> - <div class="verse indent0">By holding out to tire each other down.’</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Another hero of the dance was one of the quartermasters, -who was a match for any of the natives, or, for that matter, -for any of the crew, engineers or seamen. It was a case of -‘one down, another come on,’ and the contest might have -lasted till break of day. Unfortunately, however, the -festivities were marred by a heavy downpour of rain; but -that did not prevent the singing of ‘Auld Lang Syne’ and -‘God save the Queen,’ or hearty cheers for our host, before -the party broke up. One could not but feel sorry for the -poor people who had to find their way to the shore in the -dark, and through the pelting, pitiless rain.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_045"><img src="images/i_045.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="456" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Ardtornish Castle.</em></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46"></a>[46]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="V">V</h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">ROUND ABOUT SKYE</p> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_046.jpg" width="90" height="82" alt=""/> -</div> -<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">Wednesday</span> morning was dull and misty. We had to feel our way -cautiously between Eigg and Rum in the direction of Skye. No view could -be obtained either of the Coolins or of the mountains of the mainland. -It was indeed tantalising to know that we were in the neighbourhood -of some of the grandest scenery in Scotland, and to be unable to -see a vestige of it, except occasionally a few outlying rocks, or a -mountainous headland swept by the mist. Early in the day we cast anchor -in the Sound of Soa, near the entrance to Loch Scavaig.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_046a"><img src="images/i_046a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="450" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>The ‘Iolanthe’ off Eigg and Rum.</em></p> -</div> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47"></a>[47]</span> -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_047"><img src="images/i_047.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="486" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Loch Scavaig.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>The object of stopping at that point in the voyage was -to visit Loch Coruisk, the wildest and most desolate of -Highland lochs, imbedded in the heart of the Coolins. -In spite of the mist and the threatening rain, nearly the -whole party started in the ‘Iolanthe’ for the head of Loch -Scavaig. Scavaig itself is a very grand loch, partaking of -the gloom of the mountains that surround it,—a gloom -relieved only by the breakers on the rocky coast, and the -glint of the wings of sea-birds. The landing, at all times -difficult, was rendered more so by the slippery state of the -rocks: but it was effected without serious mishap. After a -rough walk of half a mile, over boulders and broken rocks, -the south end of the dark lake was reached. No one had -any reason to regret the toils or the risks of the expedition. -Though the mists concealed the mountain tops, they intensified -the darkness of the lake. The rain, which had been -falling for some time in sport, now began to come down in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48"></a>[48]</span> -earnest, and it quickly swelled the thousand streams that -covered the hillsides. The silver streaks had become roaring -cataracts. The loneliness of the scene was oppressive. The -lines in which Scott has described the silent lake, whose -name is a synonym for desolation, occurred to many. It is -the Bruce that speaks:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">‘Saint Mary! what a scene is here!</div> - <div class="verse indent0">I’ve traversed many a mountain-strand,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Abroad, and in my native land,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And it has been my lot to tread</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Where safety more than pleasure led;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Thus, many a waste I’ve wandered o’er,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Clombe many a crag, crossed many a moor;</div> - <div class="verse indent2">But, by my halidome,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">A scene so rude, so wild as this,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Yet so sublime in barrenness,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Never did my wandering footsteps press,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Where’er I happed to roam.’</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">No marvel thus the Monarch spake;</div> - <div class="verse indent2">For rarely human eye has known</div> - <div class="verse indent0">A scene so stern as that dread lake,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">With its dark ledge of barren stone.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Seems that primeval earthquake’s sway</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Hath rent a strange and shattered way</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Through the rude bosom of the hill;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And that each naked precipice,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Sable ravine, and dark abyss,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Tells of the outrage still.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The wildest glen but this can show</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Some touch of Nature’s genial glow;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">On high Benmore green mosses grow,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And heath-bells bud in deep Glencroe,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">And copse on Cruchan-Ben;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">But here,—above, around, below,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">On mountain or in glen,—</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Nor tree, nor shrub, nor plant, nor flower,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Nor ought of vegetative power,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">The weary eye may ken.</div><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49"></a>[49]</span> - <div class="verse indent0">For all is rocks at random thrown,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Black waves, bare crags, and banks of stone,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">As if were here denied</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The summer sun, the spring’s sweet dew,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">That clothe with many a varied hue</div> - <div class="verse indent2">The bleakest mountain-side.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">The evening mists, with ceaseless change,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Now clothed the mountains’ lofty range,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Now left their foreheads bare,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And round the skirts their mantle furled,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Or on the sable waters curled,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Or on the eddying breezes whirled,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Dispersed in middle air.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And oft, condensed, at once they lower,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">When, brief and fierce, the mountain shower</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Pours like a torrent down.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_049"><img src="images/i_049.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="428" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Mountains in Mist—Skye.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>If the rain added to the picturesqueness of the scene, it -did not add to the comfort of the visitors, most of whom -returned to the ship drenched from head to foot. But -their spirits were not damped, whatever their bodies were:<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50"></a>[50]</span> -for all were in the greatest good humour. Some one, -probably a man, expressed the wish that the mist were -away. Some one else, probably a woman, suggested that it -would not be <em>missed</em> if it were away. Such ‘Coruiskations’ -of wit were not inappropriate to the occasion, though they -may have been to the scene. They helped at all events -to keep up the spirits of the party. The refreshments -distributed on the return to the ‘Dunottar Castle’ had a -similar effect.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_050"><img src="images/i_050.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="309" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Detached Rocks—Coast of Skye.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>The anchor was then weighed, and we steamed round the -west and north coasts of Skye, the ‘Iolanthe’ going in the -opposite direction through the Sound of Sleat to Portree, -where we were to meet, and to anchor for the night. The -effects of the rain were seen in a tremendous increase in the -waterfalls that precipitate themselves into the Sound of -Soa from the steep sides of the mountains. The cataracts -were indeed magnificent, and every one felt that the wild -weather had not been without its compensations.</p> - -<p>To tell the truth, however, the scenery had to be taken -very much for granted. One or two picturesque bits of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51"></a>[51]</span> -rocky coast were all that could be seen. ‘M‘Leod’s Maidens’ -were ‘children of the Mist.’ Dunvegan Castle was nowhere. -Duntulm was invisible. The bold Quiraing, and the Old -Man of Storr, and Prince Charlie’s Cave, were held as seen; -and when we anchored in the evening in the Sound of Raasay, -opposite Portree, we might have been anywhere.</p> - -<p>These untoward conditions, however, did not interfere -with our enjoyment of the good things provided for us on -board, or of the adjournment to the smoking-room at a -later hour, when bad jokes and good stories were equally -enjoyed, and when some wonderful card tricks were performed -by our own Wizard of the North, who proved, -however, mere potter’s clay in the cool hands of Captain -Webster.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_051"><img src="images/i_051.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="365" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Near Strome Ferry.</em></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52"></a>[52]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="VI">VI</h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">WILD LOCH ALSH AND DARK LOCH DUICH</p> - - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_052a"><img src="images/i_052a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="416" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Outside of Portree Bay—Sunrise.</em></p> -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_052.jpg" width="90" height="96" alt=""/> -</div> -<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">The</span> morning of Thursday brought a welcome change. The day opened -grandly, and the good weather which then set in blessed us during the -remainder of the cruise. Those who rose early, of whom our Special -Artist was one, were rewarded with a splendid view of the hills behind -Portree, and of the bay and harbour. We started soon after breakfast -in the ‘Iolanthe’ for Strome Ferry, where several members of the party -were to leave us, and where others were to take their places, while all -eagerly awaited letters and telegrams.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53"></a>[53]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_053"><img src="images/i_053.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="439" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Scalpa Island—Skye.</em></p> -</div> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_053a"><img src="images/i_053a.jpg" alt="" width="550" height="573" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Whale blowing—off Skye.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>The sail across the Inner Sound was extremely pleasant and -exhilarating. Loch Sligachan slept in peace. Scuirna-gillean and -Blaven still wore their nightcaps. The island of Scalpa was a blaze -of rich colour, heightened by the white sails of a passing yacht. -The Islands of Longa and Pabba were emeralds set in a blue sea. -Broadford was a picture of self-contained repose. Off Pabba, two -large whales—probably truants from the school, a thousand -strong, lately reported from the Shetland seas—appeared<span -class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54"></a>[54]</span> ever and anon to plough -the surface of the water, and one of our photographers succeeded in -catching them (in her camera) in the very act of blowing clouds of -spray into the air.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_054"><img src="images/i_054.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="427" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Loch Carron—from Strome Ferry.</em></p> -</div> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_054a"><img src="images/i_054a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="352" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Head of Loch Carron—from Strome Ferry.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>At the entrance to Loch Carron, the parallel beaches on opposite -sides of the loch were mistaken by not a few on board for railway -embankments. Like the parallel beaches of Glen Roy and the other -valleys of Lochaber, they are obviously old moraines, but that does -not make them less interesting; rather more so. Unfortunately, we -reached Strome Ferry pier just in time to see the eleven o’clock -train steam out of the station, and meander along the coast of -the Loch. It was rather aggravating,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55"></a>[55]</span> -no doubt; but everything comes to him who waits; and our disappointed -friends, who wished to go southward, were able to enjoy a drive over -the crest of the promontory to Balmacarra, and to return in time for -the two o’clock train.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_055"><img src="images/i_055.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="429" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Misty Morning—Loch Carron.</em></p> -</div> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_055a"><img src="images/i_055a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="459" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>The Coolins—The ‘Dunottar Castle.’</em></p> -</div> - -<p>Loch Carron is a very beautiful sea. It cannot compare in -grandeur or boldness with Loch Alsh or Loch Hourn. Its beauty is -of a softer type, and a simpler character; but its charms are not -less. The navigable entrance to it is narrow, owing to treacherous -rocks; and the tide flows through the passage with tremendous force -and speed. We pass on the one shore the ruins of Strome Castle, -and on the other the handsome residence of Duncraig, and the -fishing<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56"></a>[56]</span> village -of Plockton—a collection of weatherbeaten huts, but prettily -situated on an outstanding promontory. As we emerge from the Loch, we -have a very grand view of the Coolins, with the ‘Dunottar Castle’ lying -under their shadow, and of the islands of Scalpa and Raasay—the -latter crowned with a curious little table-mountain over which the Old -Man of Storr is distinctly visible.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_056"><img src="images/i_056.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="433" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Kyle Akin.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>Later in the day, and still on board the ‘Iolanthe,’ we steamed -through the narrow passage of Kyle Akin (between Skye and the mainland) -into Loch Alsh. The mouth of the loch is intersected by reefs and -rocks, on the crest of one of which is the ruin of Castle Maoil. Near -it, on the right hand, is the pretty village of Kyle Akin, built -round a crescent-shaped bay with lovely sands. One would like to -pause at such a charming spot, or to visit Balmacarra, peaceful and -sweet-looking, or to inspect more closely the monument, not far off, -erected by Sir Roderick Murchison to the memory of one of his ancestors -who heroically collected the rents of the proscribed Earl of Seaforth -after the ’45; but we have to content ourselves with distant views, in -the meantime at least.</p> - -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57"></a>[57]</span> -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_057"><img src="images/i_057.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="468" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Castle Maoil—near Kyle Akin.</em></p> -</div> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_057a"><img src="images/i_057a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="415" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>In Loch Alsh—Skye in the distance.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>The constant changes in the character of the scenery of -Loch Alsh are perplexing. We think we have reached the -head of the loch, when, suddenly, a new channel opens up in -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58"></a>[58]</span>the apparently landlocked course. When King Haco of -Norway found his way into this inland loch, as he did on his northward -voyage after his defeat at Largs, he might very well have imagined -himself to have been caught in one of his native fiords, so tortuous is -the course and so difficult is the navigation.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_058"><img src="images/i_058.jpg" alt="" width="411" height="600" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Eilean Donan Castle—Loch Duich.</em></p> -</div> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_058a"><img src="images/i_058a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="448" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Entrance to Loch Duich.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>At the head of the loch, we approach the ruin of Eilean Donan -Castle, which stands at the junction of three lochs—Loch<span -class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59"></a>[59]</span> Alsh, Loch Long, and -Loch Duich. The castle, built on a detached island, must in olden -times have been a place of strength; but the story goes that it was -demolished by the guns of Cromwell. Passing the Castle on the left, -we enter Loch Duich, which, though an arm of the sea, has all the -appearance of a fresh-water lake, so smooth is its surface, and so -soft and fertile are its banks. It attains its greatest beauty near -the mansion-house of Inverinate and the village of Kintail, in the -midst of rich woods on its northern shore. The prevailing green tints -gleam out in the fitful sunshine with a richness and variety that are -enchanting. At its head, the loch is closed in by a magnificent group -of pyramidal mountains—Ben Attow, Scour Ouran, Ben Mhor, and -the Saddle—all rising to a height of upwards of 3300 feet, and -separated by well-defined and gloomy valleys.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_059"><img src="images/i_059.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="260" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Head of Loch Duich.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>The return voyage in the evening was very fine. As we emerged from -Loch Alsh and crossed Loch Carron, we had again a grand view of the -Coolins, cloud-capped and solemn, and traversed by the axled rays of -the setting sun. We steamed in the direction of Loch Kishorn,<span -class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60"></a>[60]</span> a northerly arm of Loch -Carron, where the ‘Dunottar Castle’ awaited us, and where we anchored -for the night.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_060"><img src="images/i_060.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="374" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>The Coolins—from Loch Alsh.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>That night was made memorable by several incidents. -In the first place, the electric search-light was got into working -order, and we astonished the natives of Courthill and -other solitary houses by flashing the light of day in upon -them at midnight. The ship’s pinnace and other small -craft on the loch appeared like lime-light pictures thrown -on a screen. The submarine electric tackle, which is used -in cases of accident to the screw, or to the bottom of the -vessel, was also got into play; and a very striking and novel -effect it produced. A number of small fishes were attracted -by the light, and swam about within the halo it formed. -The scene recalled forcibly the stanza which Byron completed -by adding the last two lines:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“The sun’s perpendicular ray</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Illumined the depths of the sea;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And the fishes, beginning to sweat,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Cried (something) how hot we shall be.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_61"></a>[61]</span></p> -<div class="figright"> -<a id="image_061"><img src="images/i_061.jpg" alt="" width="244" height="500" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>The Piper.</em></p> -</div> - -<div class="figleft"> -<a id="image_061a"><img src="images/i_061a.jpg" alt="" width="192" height="500" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">Sammy.</span></p> -</div> - -<p>Most memorable of all, the Captain’s boy astonished every one -by volunteering a hornpipe, while dancing was in progress on the -promenade deck. Sir Donald summoned his piper to play the necessary -accompaniment; but that did not suit Sammy’s steps. He required the -whole orchestra of the ship’s band; and he gave them his instructions -with the cool confidence of a professional performer. While he was -in the very midst of his double-shuffle, Captain Webster appeared on -the gangway, calling, ‘Sammy, you rascal, what are you doing there?’ -Sir Donald, fancying for the moment that the Captain was in earnest, -rushed forward to propitiate his wrath. It was as good as a play. If -the scene had been preconcerted, it could not have been more effective. -But Sam was not in the least perturbed. He continued his performance -amid the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_62"></a>[62]</span> applause -of the whole company, until he was tired out. It afterwards transpired -that the boy had been ‘on the boards’ before, probably in the part of -the ‘Midshipmite’ in the Children’s ‘Pinafore.’</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_062"><img src="images/i_062.jpg" alt="" width="472" height="550" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Head of Loch Kishorn.</em></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_63"></a>[63]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="VII">VII</h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">ROUND CAPE WRATH</p> - - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_063a"><img src="images/i_063a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="216" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Rona Island—Lewis and Harris in the distance.</em></p> -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_063.jpg" width="90" height="86" alt=""/> -</div> -<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">Friday</span>, September 5th, was perhaps the most enjoyable day of the -whole cruise. We started, in magnificent weather, with the intention -of steaming up the west coast to Cape Wrath, and thence eastward along -the north coast to Thurso. We steered up the Inner Sound, between -Raasay and Rona on the one hand, and the rugged coast of Applecross -on the other. We crossed Loch Torridon, at the head of which Ben -Liugach rose in calm and majestic splendour. Opposite Gairloch, we had -a fine view of Ben Slioch, which overlooks Loch Maree. Still finer, -however, was the view backward, where the Coolins frowned even in -the sunshine—the solemn pyramid of Blaven asserting itself in -presence of loftier peaks. From this rugged background the rocky ridge -extended northward by the Storr rocks and the Quiraing to the extremity -of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_64"></a>[64]</span> island. -Toward the west, the misty outline of Lewis and Harris broke, but -scarcely broke, the regularity of the horizon.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_064"><img src="images/i_064.jpg" alt="" width="359" height="550" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Summer Sheen—in Skye Waters.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>Then we crossed Loch Broom, with its Summer Isles, and -the point of Rhu-Coigach, and Enard Bay, and Loch Inver, -and we began to recognise the peculiar character of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_65"></a>[65]</span> -Sutherlandshire mountains. They rise abruptly to a considerable -height from wide intervening valleys, and they -frequently assume the sugar-loaf shape. That is the case -with Suilven, ‘the sugar-loaf’ <em>par excellence</em>, and also with -Canisp, and Ben Stack, and Foinaven near Loch Laxford.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_065"><img src="images/i_065.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="396" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>The Coolins—Blaven—Marsco.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>The whole coast is rugged and forbidding. Close to the Point of -Stoer is the Rhu-Stoer, a detached columnar rock resembling the Old -Man of Hoy in Orkney. Several other stacks of similar formation were -seen as we passed northward, conspicuously ‘The Shepherd’ between Loch -Inchard and Cape Wrath. As we approached the latter, we felt once more -the Atlantic swell, and the ship pitched and rolled somewhat, though -she was as a rock in comparison with the smaller coasting steamers that -ply habitually in these waters, two of which we saw labouring heavily; -and some of us, at least, felt thankful that we were not as they.</p> - -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_66"></a>[66]</span> -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_066"><img src="images/i_066.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="348" /></a> -<p class="caption center">Cape Wrath</p> -<p class="caption center">—Lennox Browne</p> -</div> - -<p>Cape Wrath, now seen by many of us for the first time, is really -a splendid headland. The name in its modern interpretation may be -appropriate enough, considering the wild seas that roar and bluster -around it; but in point of fact it has no connection with the English -word ‘wrath.’ It is a corruption of the Norse ‘Hvarf,’ which meant ‘the -turning-point of the land,’ and might have been more correctly<span -class="pagenum"><a id="Page_67"></a>[67]</span> Englished ‘Cape Warp.’ -The lighthouse stands on a cliff 370 feet above the sea, beneath which -there is a succession of jagged points, or needle-rocks, stretching -seaward, perforated at their bases with several openings, through which -the surf breaks and spends itself in spray. A more perilous point for -shipping in a dark night it would be hard to conceive. As we passed -the Cape, the cold, rainy squalls which had followed us for some time -cleared off, leaving behind them, however, very striking effects of sea -and sky.</p> - -<p>The north coast, east of Cape Wrath, partakes of the -same rugged character as the promontory. There are castle -rocks, and detached rocks, and dark ‘cletts,’ too numerous to -mention. There are isolated mountains of considerable -height about the dark Kyle of Durness, and Loch Erribol, -and the Kyle of Tongue. The coast-scenery, however, becomes -rapidly tamer. Ben Hope and Ben Loyal are the last prominent -peaks that stand out from the undulating plain.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_067"><img src="images/i_067.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="298" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Thurso—from the Bay.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>Beyond Strathy Point, we reach the lowlands of Caithness. -Green meadows and -yellow corn-fields sloping down to the golden sands become<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_68"></a>[68]</span> -common. Around Brims Ness and Holburn Head, the -coast is as flat and level as the shores of Fife and the -Lothians. Near Holburn -Head, however, there is another -huge detached rock, 200 feet high, -called the Clett, around which the -ocean surges and swells night and day in most weathers. -Passing this rock at a safe distance, we entered Thurso -Bay, and anchored securely in Scrabster Roads. The rain -clouds cleared off toward evening, and revealed a beautiful -sunset.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_068"><img src="images/i_068.jpg" alt="" width="365" height="550" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>The Old Man of Hoy.</em></p> -</div> - -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_69"></a>[69]</span> -<p>At Thurso (which is Thor’s Town, another Norse landmark) -we were in touch once more with the British railway -and postal systems. The most prominent object on the mainland -was the castle lately rebuilt by Sir J. G. Tollemache -Sinclair—a cold-looking mansion, rendered more forbidding -by the absence of trees. The town itself looked very -picturesque, with its spires and chimneys breaking the -coast-line, while the fields of golden grain that surrounded -it bespoke fertility and prosperity. Other noteworthy -features of the neighbourhood were Harold’s Tower, the -Bishop’s Castle, and the bold bluffs of Dunnet Head, the -most northerly point of the mainland. The northward -view included the Orkney Islands, and Hoy Head, with -the Old Man of Hoy at its base, which, at a later hour, -and in the ‘witching time of night,’ stood out grandly in -the moonlight.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent12">‘The Old Man of Hoy</div> - <div class="verse indent12">Looks out on the sea,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Where the tide runs strong, and the wave rides free:</div> - <div class="verse indent6">He looks on the broad Atlantic sea,</div> - <div class="verse indent12">And the Old Man of Hoy</div> - <div class="verse indent12">Hath this great joy,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To hear the deep roar of the wide blue ocean,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And to stand unmoved ’mid the sleepless motion,</div> - <div class="verse indent12">And to feel o’er his head</div> - <div class="verse indent12">The white foam spread</div> - <div class="verse indent6">From the wild wave proudly swelling,</div> - <div class="verse indent12">And to care no whit</div> - <div class="verse indent12">For the storm’s rude fit,</div> - <div class="verse indent6">Where he stands on his old rock-dwelling.’</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p class="date-r">—<span class="smcap">Professor Blackie.</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_70"></a>[70]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="VIII">VIII</h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">A RAID ON ORKNEY</p> - - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_070a"><img src="images/i_070a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="355" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Copinsay Island—Orkney.</em></p> -</div> - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_070.jpg" width="90" height="92" alt=""/> -</div> -<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">During</span> the night we were rocked in the cradle of the deep, even at -our anchorage, by the north-west wind, which blew strongly; and at -an early hour in the morning, the anchor was weighed, and we steamed -steadily through the Pentland Firth, generally a tempestuous passage, -and then northward past the rugged islet of Copinsay, with its myriads -of sea-birds, into Shapinsay Sound. Balfour Castle, on the island of -Shapinsay, was the most prominent object in the landscape. One is apt -to wonder how the massive building came there, so inconsistent is -its pretentious appearance with its bare and cheerless surroundings. -By-and-by we anchored in Kirkwall Roads, and every one, as quickly as -possible, was<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_71"></a>[71]</span> -transferred to land in the ‘Iolanthe,’ and the steam launch, or the -attendant gigs.</p> - -<p>Kirkwall is not a very stirring or lively place, but it has an -old-world flavour, which makes a visit to it pleasant and memorable. -Its narrow and tortuous streets, paved with flags, its old-fashioned -houses, many of them with secluded courts, and presenting their gables -to the sea, and most of all its ancient Cathedral, invest it with a -peculiar interest.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_071"><img src="images/i_071.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="350" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Kirkwall—from the Bay.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>The Cathedral forms, of course, its chief attraction. -This building, which is the most conspicuous object in the -town, as seen either from the sea or from the land, dates -from the twelfth century, having been founded by Jarl -Rognvald in 1137, in memory of his uncle, St. Magnus. Its -style is chiefly Norman, but it contains many features of -the Pointed Gothic or Early English style, which makes -it extremely interesting to the antiquary and the architect, -resembling in that respect the famous Cathedral of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72"></a>[72]</span> -Trondhjem, which belongs to the same period. Outwardly, -it is wonderfully well preserved. Though really a very -small building of its kind—a cathedral in miniature,—its -parts are so well proportioned that it has almost an imposing -appearance. Worthy of special notice are the great -east window, which Sir Henry Dryden believed to be unique; -the circular window in the south transept; and the carving -of the west door, which Dryden refers to as probably the -finest example in the British Islands of the effective combination -of particoloured stones. But the delicate floral -work in the arch of the doorway is now much weather-worn, -and the fine pillars are wasted to skeletons. The -tower, to which we mounted, commands a splendid view of -the town and bay and the surrounding islands.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_072"><img src="images/i_072.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="453" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>The Earl’s Palace—Kirkwall.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>From the Cathedral we passed to the Bishop’s Palace, -part of which is probably as old as the Cathedral itself, -though the greater part is known to have been built in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_73"></a>[73]</span> -the sixteenth century by Bishop Reid, who made additions -to the Cathedral also. In the older part of this palace -King Haco died on his return from Largs, and his remains -lay for a time within the Cathedral.</p> - -<p>Still more interesting are the remains of the Earl’s Palace, which -stands to the east of the last-named building. It was erected by the -notorious Earl Patrick Stewart—“Black Pate”—about 1590. -He was the son of Lord Robert Stewart (a natural son of James <span -class="allsmcap"><abbr title="5">V</abbr>.</span>), Earl of Orkney. Black Pate also built -Scalloway Castle in Shetland; and in the erection of both he levied -contributions from his vassals and retainers without stint, requiring -them not only to furnish the materials in stone, lime and eggs, with -which the mortar was mixed, but also to work like slaves under his -command: hence his by-name, “The Scourge of the Islands.” By-and-by his -notorious deeds became known in Edinburgh, and he was captured, and -ended his career on the gallows.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_073"><img src="images/i_073.jpg" alt="" width="348" height="550" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>The Earl’s Palace—Kirkwall.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>He must, however, have been a man of fine taste and grand -notions, if we are to judge by the architectural features of his -palace. It is really a fine specimen of the Scottish baronial style, -many of the details of ornament—in<span class="pagenum"><a -id="Page_74"></a>[74]</span> round turrets, quaint gables, and -projecting windows—being beautiful, especially as seen through -the grove of sycamore-trees which surrounds the building. A remarkable -feature is a level arch over one of the great fireplaces in the -banqueting hall, on either side of which the initials “P.E.O.” -(Patrick, Earl of Orkney) may still be seen. This is one of the best -examples of the straight arch in Scotland.</p> - -<p>The day being exceedingly fine, a large contingent enjoyed -a drive along the Stromness road to Maeshowe and the -Stones of Brogar and Stenness.</p> - -<p>Maeshowe is an unique chambered mound, and is one of -the most interesting of the many interesting antiquities of -Orkney. The mound is 36 feet high and 300 feet in circumference. -The central chamber (15 feet square) is built -of solid blocks of stone. The roof is of bee-hive shape, and -in the walls there are on three sides deep cells or shelves -5 or 6 feet long. It is reached by a long and narrow -passage, and as the whole is underground, it has to be -explored by candle-light. The position and the dimensions -of the cells suggest a place of burial, such as the early Britons -used; but the numerous inscriptions on the walls are Runic -and Norse. There has therefore been a great deal of discussion -as to the purpose of the building; but the general -belief now is that it was originally a Pictish sepulchre, and -that it was broken into by the Norsemen after the ninth -century, and was used by them as a place of refuge, and -for the concealment of treasure.</p> - -<p>A mile and a half farther on are the two celebrated stone -circles, called respectively the Ring of Brogar and the Ring -of Stenness. The latter is the smaller, though it has given its<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_75"></a>[75]</span> -name to the whole. According to our own Antiquary, who -accompanied the party, that circle was 104 feet in diameter, -and consisted originally of twelve stones, of which only two -are standing. The Ring of Brogar, according to the same -authority, was 340 feet in diameter, and comprised sixty -stones, of which thirteen are standing, while ten others, -though they have fallen, are still entire. We were assured -that these are the finest stone circles in Scotland, far surpassing -in extent the Stones of Callernish in Lewis, and -comparing favourably with the more famous remains of -Stonehenge. As to the purpose of these circles, we were left -to solve the mystery for ourselves, being warned, however, that -their connection with Druidical worship is now discredited.</p> - -<p>One of the most famous of these monoliths was the Stone -of Odin in the Stenness circle, now no longer erect. It was -perforated by a hole, about five feet from the ground, and -was regarded with the utmost veneration, being used (as the -readers of Scott’s <em>Pirate</em> will remember) as the place where -lovers plighted their troth by clasping hands through the -aperture. The stones in the case of both circles are of the -Old Red Sandstone formation.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_075"><img src="images/i_075.jpg" alt="" width="460" height="500" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">West Doorway Kirkwall Cathedral </span></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_76"></a>[76]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="IX">IX</h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">OUR SHIP’S NAME-MOTHER</p> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_076.jpg" width="90" height="96" alt=""/> -</div> -<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">The</span> whole party returned to the ‘Dunottar Castle’ about five -o’clock, and soon afterwards the anchor was weighed and we started -on our homeward voyage. The wind, which had been blowing fresh from -the north-west all day, fell away toward sunset, and during the -night—the only night spent in sailing—we had a wonderfully -quiet passage.</p> - -<p>About five o’clock in the morning, those who were fortunate enough -to occupy berths on the port side of the ship saw a magnificent -sunrise. The sky was clear overhead, but there was a dense bank of -clouds on the eastern horizon. Presently, in the midst of the dark -mass, a ruddy longitudinal streak appeared. Then the streak was doubled -and multiplied. The upper air glowed with opalescent tints. The clouds -melted away, and the ruddy orb of the sun appeared on the verge of the -ocean. The sea around us, and for miles away, was calm as a mirror, and -reflected the gradations of light and the fiery hues of the eastern -sky. It was an enchanting scene, such as could be witnessed only once -or twice in a lifetime.</p> - -<p>We passed Aberdeen about six o’clock, but at too great a -distance to obtain a definite view. About breakfast-time we<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_77"></a>[77]</span> -were off Stonehaven, which threw back from its windows the -rays of the morning sun. It was a glorious day. Not a -cloud darkened the sky, not a ripple broke the surface of -the sea except in the track of the ship. Presently we were -abreast of the ruins of Dunottar Castle, perched on its rocky -pedestal—the veritable name-mother of our ship. The -breakfast-bell was ringing (a welcome sound in ordinary -circumstances), but every one was loath to leave the deck. -The order was therefore given to lie-to until that necessary -rite had been performed. Then we returned to the deck -with satisfied spirits, and gazed for half an hour or more on -the beautiful scene. Artists, photographers, and scribes -were soon busily at work, all eager to catch the fleeting -beauty.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_077"><img src="images/i_077.jpg" alt="" width="499" height="500" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Dunottar Castle.</em></p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_78"></a>[78]</span></p> - -<p>The detached, or semi-detached, rock on which the ruins -of the Castle stand is about two miles south of Stonehaven. -It is 160 feet high, and a deep chasm separates it, all but -completely, from the mainland, which at this point is wild -and precipitous. The neighbourhood, indeed, is a continuous -series of cliffs, which are frequented by numerous -sea-birds: hence the popular name given to the coast, of -the ‘Fowlesheugh.’</p> - -<p>Here again the resources of our own Antiquary were -called into requisition, and he assured us, with the unblushing -confidence of an expert, that the name of the Castle meant -in Gaelic ‘the fort of the low promontory.’ It is easy to -believe that the rock was the site of a castle from very early -times, a siege of ‘Dunfoither’ (as it was then called) by -a king of the Picts in the seventh century being on record -(681 <span class="allsmcap">A.D.</span>). <a id="FNanchor_1_1" href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> The Castle the ruins of which remain is of -course of much later date, though its buildings belong -to different ages. It appears, from evident signs, to have -covered the greater part of the surface of the rock, which -is 4½ acres in extent.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> -<p><a id="Footnote_1_1" href="#FNanchor_1_1" class="label">[1]</a> See Sir Donald Currie’s <cite>Book of Garth and Fortingall</cite>, page -83.</p> -</div> - -<p>Its position resembles very closely that of Tantallon -Castle in the Firth of Forth, and before the days of artillery -it must have been almost impregnable. Nevertheless, Blind -Harry describes a capture of Dunottar by William Wallace, -when four thousand Englishmen were burned in the Castle. -It was re-fortified by Edward <span class="allsmcap"><abbr title="3">III</abbr>.</span> in 1336; but these incidents -relate to an older castle than that of which the remains -survive.</p> - -<p>The present Castle, as far as can be ascertained, was -begun by Sir William Keith, the ‘Great Marischal of -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_79"></a>[79]</span>Scotland,’ towards the close of the fourteenth century, and the -lands and castle remained in the hands of the Keith family -till the Rebellion of 1715, when the owner threw in his lot with -the Pretender, and forfeited his estates. One of the mottoes -of the family was couched in the quaint and defiant words,</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">‘They haif said:</div> - <div class="verse">Quhat say they:</div> - <div class="verse">Lat thame say!’</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>When the ship received the name of the Castle, these words -also were adopted as its motto.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_079"><img src="images/i_079.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="418" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Dunottar Castle in olden time—from an old print.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>Dunottar was besieged by the gallant Marquis of -Montrose during the great Rebellion, the Earl Marischal -of that time having been a Covenanter (1645). Montrose -offered him fair terms if he would capitulate, but the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_80"></a>[80]</span> -Covenanting clergymen who had taken refuge within the -Castle overruled him, as their kind overruled David Leslie -at Dunbar; and he was not allowed to surrender. Thereupon -the Marquis subjected the surrounding property to -military execution, to the great dismay of the Earl, when he -saw flames and smoke rising from his houses, and notwithstanding -the assurance of Andrew Cant (ominous name) ‘that -the reek would be a sweet-smelling incense in the nostrils -of the Lord.’ Evacuation followed as a matter of course.</p> - -<p>When Charles <span class="allsmcap"><abbr title="2">II</abbr>.</span> visited Scotland in 1650, he was entertained -in Dunottar Castle by the seventh Earl Marischal. -In the following year, when the English Parliamentary army -overran Scotland, the Scottish Estates deposited the Regalia -in Dunottar Castle, then deemed the strongest place in -the kingdom, and George Ogilvy of Barras was appointed -Lieutenant-Governor. It was besieged by Cromwell’s army, -and Ogilvy held out until famine rendered his troops -mutinous, whereupon he surrendered. Before he did so, -however, the Regalia had been cleverly removed by Mrs. -Granger, the wife of the minister of Kinneff—a village on -the coast, four miles farther south. Having obtained the -permission of the English commandant to visit her friend -Mrs. Ogilvy, the Lieutenant-Governor’s wife, Mrs. Granger, -carried with her, on leaving the Castle, a bundle of clothes, -in which the Crown was imbedded, and also a huge distaff -covered with lint, which was in fact formed of the Sceptre -and the Sword of State.</p> - -<p>The same night, the precious treasures were buried by the -minister himself under the flags of his church at Kinneff; -and there they remained till after the Restoration of 1660, -when they were unearthed, and were presented to Charles <span class="allsmcap"><abbr title="2">II</abbr>.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_81"></a>[81]</span></span> -by the same George Ogilvy who had formerly been Commander -of the Castle. Ogilvy’s only reward was the title -of Baronet, and a new coat of arms. The minister and -his wife received no reward—not even thanks. Sir John -Keith, the brother of the Earl Marischal, was made Earl -of Kintore in 1677, and was the ancestor of the present -Earl, who is the tenth to hold the dignity.</p> - -<p>After its surrender to Cromwell, the Castle was partially -dismantled and reduced to ruins. What remained of -it was, like the Bass Rock, used as a State prison for the -Covenanters during the persecutions under Charles <span class="allsmcap"><abbr title="2">II</abbr>.</span> -and the Duke of York. One hundred and sixty-seven men -and women were imprisoned at one time in its ‘Whig’s -Vault,’ or Black Hole, and nine of them speedily died of -suffocation. Driven to despair, some twenty-five of them -one night crept out of a window and along the face -of the cliff, in the hope of effecting their escape. Two -of these daring men fell over the rock and were killed. -The others were captured, and were subjected to terrible -cruelties.</p> - -<p>A few years after the forfeiture already referred to, the -Castle was sold, and was completely dismantled. It was -subsequently repurchased by the Keith family; and it passed -finally into the hands of Sir Alexander Keith, Writer, -Edinburgh, whose grandson, Sir Patrick Keith Murray of -Ochtertyre, sold it in 1875 to Mr. Innes of Cowie, near -Stonehaven.</p> - -<p>Having studied the Castle and its surroundings long -enough to deepen our impressions of it, we got up steam -again, and went on our way past Bervie, with its outstanding -Craig-David; past Montrose, stretched over a level site;<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_82"></a>[82]</span> -past Arbroath, with its tall chimneys, its spires, and its -ancient Abbey,—all seen in the dim distance, and reposing -peacefully in the Sabbath calm.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_082"><img src="images/i_082.jpg" alt="" width="550" height="228" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Montrose—from the Sea.</em></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_83"></a>[83]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="X">X</h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">A DAY OF REST</p> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_083.jpg" width="90" height="85" alt=""/> -</div> -<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">At</span> the morning service, which was held as usual in the saloon, Dr. -Cameron of Cape Town preached an eloquent and suggestive sermon from -Luke xiii. 29, ‘They shall come from the east, and from the west, and -from the north, and from the south, and shall sit down in the kingdom -of God.’ The words, he thought, were not inappropriate to the occasion; -for the company was gathered from many parts of this country, and some -of its members from distant lands. It might be said, indeed, that we -had come from the east, and from the west, from the north, and from -the south. After pointing out that the words were Christ’s real answer -to the question, ‘Are there few that be saved?’ and showing that His -restrictions applied to those who sought to enter the kingdom of God in -other ways than by the strait gate, the preacher continued:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>‘My text gives us the vision of a great commonwealth or -society, into which all worthy elements of human character are -gathered up—a kingdom of God which is at the same time a -kingdom of man. And they form a great multitude which no -man can number, because fresh crowds are ever gathering into -it. “The nations of them that are saved shall walk in the -light of it.”</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_84"></a>[84]</span></p> - -<p>‘“They shall come from the East”—the land of immemorial -traditions and gorgeous imaginations, of Oriental splendour and -barbaric gold: the cradle of civilisation, and philosophy, and -religion: where, a thousand years before Christ, mystics -dreamed of a blessedness which could be reached only by those -who mortified the flesh, and contemplated the unseen glories of -the spiritual world;—the East, with its patient millions who -have borne without complaint the yoke of a cruel bondage: -with its frankincense and myrrh, once laid in homage at the -cradle of a little child: with its jewelled temples raised in -honour of gods many and lords many, and its holy plains,</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Over whose acres walked those blessed feet</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Which, eighteen hundred years ago, were nailed,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">For our advantage, to the bitter cross.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>‘None of that splendour shall be lost: it shall receive a new -consecration. That devotion shall find its true object: those -dusky brows shall be decked by the hand of Him who hath -made us kings and priests unto God. “They shall come from -the east,” and sit down with prophets and patriarchs in the -kingdom of God.</p> - -<p>‘“They shall come from the West.” The kingdom of God -is no palace of luxury, no paradise of passive repose, where -kings sit in solemn state, and mystics dream away their days -in fruitless visions. It is the commonwealth of those banded -together to do the work of the Lord, and there must be place -in it for the practical vigour and the restless energy of the -Western mind. The subtle Greek, who sent the arrows of his -thought quivering into the heart of Europe: the practical -Roman, fulfilling his great part in the commission to replenish -and subdue the earth: the nations of modern Europe, with -their culture, and power, and ambitions: the great Republic of -the West, where the banner of religious freedom was unfurled, -and great problems in politics and religion are being worked -out—not one of these can be spared from the final association -of men in the kingdom of God. Each has its contribution to -bring. We are debtors to the Greek and the barbarian, to the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_85"></a>[85]</span> -wise and the unwise: and they in their turn are debtors to the -great world of which they form a part, and are to bring their -glory and honour, their worth and their wisdom, into the Community -of the Saved.</p> - -<p>‘“They shall come from the North.” They came from the -north in mighty hordes—those fierce barbarians who swept down -upon the tottering Roman Empire, and crushed out what -remained to it of life. Province after province was invaded by -these terrible men, the fairest tracts of Southern Europe were -occupied by them, and are still held by their descendants. -They shall come again, Christ says, from the north: not for -destruction, but for help and blessing: not to ravage the -provinces of a decaying earthly empire, but to swell the -population and to add to the wealth of the city of God: from -the far north, the land of the midnight sun, and the noonday -darkness, into the city of which the Lord is the everlasting -light, and whose sun shall no more go down for ever.</p> - -<p>‘“They shall come from the South”: where palm-trees cast -their grateful shadows on the earth, and temples lift their -stately heads to heaven. We read and speak of the luxury and -ease of the South, where life is free from care, and its burdens -rest very lightly on men whose hearts are bright and gay. -But there is a place even for something of this kind in the -final home. There must be rest and peace, as well as toil and -energy: enjoyment, as well as action. So the men of the -South come trooping in at the call of Christ, even as the -Queen of the South once came to hear the wisdom of Solomon. -From the banks of the river of Egypt, with its mighty pyramids -and mystic learning: from the central plains and southern -shores of the dark continent of Africa, which shall one day be -light in the Lord: from the new world of the Southern Seas -with their multitude of islands, and from that greater Britain -which is throbbing with the vigorous life of what they love to -call the Mother Country—from each and all of these they shall -come, a goodly host, each under its own standard, but high -over all the blood-red banner of the Captain of our Salvation. -They shall come, a great multitude which no man can number,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_86"></a>[86]</span> -“from the east, and from the west, from the north, and from -the south”: and this is the processional hymn to the music of -which they march through the gates into the city—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Unto Him that loved us, and washed</div> - <div class="verse indent2">us from our sins in His own blood,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And hath made us kings and</div> - <div class="verse indent2">priests unto God and His Father;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To Him be glory and dominion</div> - <div class="verse indent2">for ever and ever. Amen.”’</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_086"><img src="images/i_086.jpg" alt="" width="550" height="230" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Entrance to Loch Torridon.</em></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_87"></a>[87]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="XI">XI</h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">HOMEWARD BOUND</p> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_087.jpg" width="90" height="83" alt=""/> -</div> -<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">When</span> we returned to the deck we found ourselves -within sight of the Bell Rock, off the -Firth of Tay, and the old stories were retold -of the fate of Ralph the Rover, and of the -trials and hair-breadth ’scapes of Robert -Stevenson and the heroes who helped him to build the famous -lighthouse, and to carry out in an enduring -form the humane intentions of</p> - -<p>“The pious Abbot of Aberbrothock.”</p> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_087a"><img src="images/i_087a.jpg" alt="" width="413" height="600" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>The Bell Rock Lighthouse.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>A heavy haze now began to gather on the shore. No trace of St. -Andrews could be seen. The East Neuk of Fife, with King’s Barns on the -one side and Crail on the other, was only dimly visible. Steaming close -to the Isle of May, we saw very plainly its -lighthouses, its store-houses,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_88"></a>[88]</span> -and its ruined chapel of St. Adrian. We were reminded, -in view of recent events, that this island is nearly -of the same size as Heligoland; and one wonders that it has -not been turned to as good account as the latter. Late -in the evening we entered the Firth of Forth by the passage -between Tantallon Castle and the Bass Rock, in order to -obtain a view of these famous fortresses.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_088"><img src="images/i_088.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="185" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>May Island.</em></p> -</div> - -<p class="space-above2"></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_088a"><img src="images/i_088a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="472" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Tantallon Castle.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>Tantallon Castle, like Dunottar, stands on a detached -rock, and is accessible from the mainland only at one point. -It is famous in the history of Scottish wars, and especially<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_89"></a>[89]</span> -in that of the house of Douglas. Every one is familiar with -Scott’s graphic description of it, and of the parting scene of -Marmion and Douglas at its gate:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">‘On the Earl’s cheek the flush of rage</div> - <div class="verse indent0">O’ercame the ashen hue of age:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Fierce he broke forth,—“And darest thou then</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To beard the lion in his den,</div> - <div class="verse indent4">The Douglas in his hall?</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And hopest thou hence unscathed to go?—</div> - <div class="verse indent0">No, by Saint Bride of Bothwell, no!—</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Up drawbridge, grooms!—what, warder, ho!</div> - <div class="verse indent4">Let the portcullis fall.”—</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">Lord Marmion turned—well was his need—</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And dashed the rowels in his steed,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Like arrow through the archway sprung;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The ponderous gate behind him rung:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To pass there was such scanty room,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The bars, descending, razed his plume.’</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>The buildings and the surrounding walls cover the -entire surface of the rock. Its strength in olden times was -proverbial, and led to the saying—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">‘Ding doon Tantallon,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Mak’ a brig to the Bass,’</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">the one achievement being deemed about as easy as the -other. The ruins as seen from the sea do not present any -picturesque features, but they give the impression of a place -of great size, and practically impregnable.</p> - -<p>The Bass Rock (313 feet high) is the counterpart in the -Firth of Forth of Ailsa Craig in the Firth of Clyde; and it -is remarkable that these two rocks are the only ones in -Scotland that are frequented by the gannet, or solan goose. -The Bass presents a very bold outline, from whatever point -it may be seen. Its summit slopes from north to south, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_90"></a>[90]</span> -it is surrounded on all sides by steep cliffs, rising sheer out -of the sea. The only possible landing-place is on a shelf of rock -on the south side, above which are the ruins of a fortress, which -stretched across the island from east to west.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_090"><img src="images/i_090.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="483" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>The Bass Rock.</em></p> -</div> - -<p>This fortress, as has been mentioned, was used as a State prison in -the times of Charles <span class="allsmcap"><abbr title="2">II</abbr>.</span> and his brother -James <span class="allsmcap"><abbr title="7">VII</abbr>.</span> Many Covenanters were immured -there, including stout old John Blackadder, who died on the island -after a long imprisonment. The Bass was the last stronghold in Britain -that held out for James <span class="allsmcap"><abbr title="7">VII</abbr>.</span>, and after -its surrender its castle was demolished.</p> - -<p>As we passed close to the rock the steam-whistle was -sounded, and at once great numbers of solan geese rushed -forth like a living whirlwind, darting and wheeling in the -air, and filling it with their hoarse cries. The noise had -scarce died away when we passed North Berwick—sentinelled -by its Law, and guarded by its outposts, Craigleith and -Fidra. The haze grew denser and denser as we sailed up -the Firth of Forth, so much so that it was thought -advisable to go at half-speed. Inchkeith was not visible -until we were within less than a mile of it. One consequence -of the changed atmospheric conditions was that a -projected visit to the Forth Bridge had to be postponed;<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_91"></a>[91]</span> -another was, that we failed to obtain the view of Edinburgh -from the sea, which is considered one of the finest.</p> - -<p>Above Inchkeith, we were met by a tug from the shore, -which brought out some of the representatives of the Leith -house (James Currie and Co.) and other friends. The tug -marshalled us the way to our anchorage; and about six -o’clock we dropped anchor in Leith Roads, not without -regret that the act signalised the practical termination of -our delightful cruise.</p> - -<p>After dinner that evening, Sir Arthur Blackwood and -Lord Provost Muir expressed to Sir Donald Currie, in the -name of the guests, their hearty thanks for his splendid -hospitality, and for the pleasure which the trip had afforded -them in many ways. Captain Webster, his officers and -men, were not forgotten in this thanksgiving service; and -well they deserved this recognition, for what was a pleasure-trip -to the guests involved no little hard work for them. -Indeed the Captain declared that his anxieties had turned -his hair white, but he added that the many kind things said -of him had restored its natural colour—a kind of capillary -blush after the blanching of care.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_091"><img src="images/i_091.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="299" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>Inchkeith.</em></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_92"></a>[92]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="XII">XII</h2> -</div> - -<p class="center">IN THE FIRTH OF FORTH</p> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_092.jpg" width="90" height="90" alt=""/> -</div> -<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">Next</span> morning the mist had risen sufficiently -to show dimly, but yet with a certain poetic -mystery, the beauties of the unrivalled position -of ‘the grey Metropolis of the North’ -within her cincture of hills—Salisbury -Crags and Arthur’s Seat, Blackford Hill and the Braids, -Corstorphine Hill and the wooded heights of Dalmeny and -Hopetoun. In the midst, there was a dreamy indication of -the city, with its masses of buildings following the contours -of the undulating site, and relieved by outstanding spires, -monuments, and tall chimneys—the whole culminating in -the Castle Rock, which stood out like an aerial island from -a sea of haze.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_092a"><img src="images/i_092a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="174" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">From Leith Roads</span></p> -</div> - -<p>In the forenoon, a delightful trip was made in the -‘Iolanthe’ up to and under the Forth Bridge; and those who -made it were rewarded with a splendid view of that wonderful<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_93"></a>[93]</span> -structure. As every one knows, the view of the Bridge -from the sea is the finest that can be obtained. You see it -as a whole. You take in at a glance all its details. You -see each of the cantilevers separately, as well as the connecting -girders. You see the width of the great spans and the -height of the ‘fair-way’; and you understand why such -vast superstructures were necessary in order to secure the -stability of the intermediate railway line. All this is missed -by one who crosses the Bridge in a railway carriage, unless, -as occurred once in the experience of the writer, the western -sun casts a perfect shadow of the Bridge on the placid bosom -of the Firth below.</p> - -<p>In the course of the day, several thousands of the inhabitants -of Edinburgh and Leith visited the ‘Dunottar Castle,’ -on the general invitation of the Castle Company, and in -steamers provided for their accommodation. The extent -to which the privilege was taken advantage of showed how -highly it was appreciated.</p> - -<p>In response to special invitations, the Corporations of -Edinburgh and Leith, the Merchant Company, the Chambers -of Commerce, and other public bodies, paid a visit to the -ship about noon, and were entertained to luncheon, to the -number of 150, Sir Donald Currie presiding. The manner -in which the extempore function was carried through showed -that the resources of the ship, without extraneous aid, were -quite equal to such an emergency. It is needless to do more -than refer to the eloquent speeches in which the beauty of -the ship and the enterprise of its owners were acknowledged.</p> - -<p>Then, at length, the harmonious party, which for ten -days had been at home in the great ship, was scattered promiscuously -to the East and the West, the North and the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_94"></a>[94]</span> -South, to resume old ties of love and friendship, but not to -forget the new ties that had been formed.</p> - -<p>In the evening of the same day, the great ship left -her moorings and sailed for London, there to take her -appointed place in the Cape and Natal Mail Service; -and no vessel ever entered on her career with more cordial -good wishes from troops of friends than</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p class="center p120">‘THE DUNOTTAR CASTLE.’</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_094"><img src="images/i_094.jpg" alt="" width="380" height="650" /></a> -<p class="caption center"><em>The Tug in Leith Roads.</em></p> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> -<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_95"></a>[95]</span> -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="EPILOGUE"><em>EPILOGUE</em></h2> -</div> - -<div class="blockquot"> -<p><em>History, in these days, is made more rapidly than it -is written. Before these sheets have left the Press, -there comes the news that ‘The Dunottar Castle’ has -‘beaten the record’ on her first Cape voyage in both -directions.</em></p> - -<p><em>She made the outward passage in 16 days, 11 hours, -54 minutes, and completed the homeward run to -Plymouth in 16 days, 6 hours, net steaming time. -The fastest passages previously recorded were made -by ‘The Roslin Castle’: outward in 17 days, 10 hours, -15 minutes, and homeward in 16 days, 16 hours, -35 minutes. ‘The Dunottar Castle’ has thus shortened -the passage between England and the Cape by -nearly a whole day.</em></p> -</div> -<p class="right">W. S. D.</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h3 class="nobreak" id="EDINBURGH_UNIVERSITY_PRESS">EDINBURGH UNIVERSITY PRESS</h3> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a id="image_colophon"><img src="images/i_colophon.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="199" /></a> -</div> - -<p class="center">T. <span class="allsmcap">AND</span> A. CONSTABLE<br /> -<em>Printers to Her Majesty</em></p> - -<p class="center"><abbr title="1890">MDCCCXC</abbr></p> - -</div> -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CRUISE OF THE ROYAL MAIL STEAMER DUNOTTAR CASTLE ROUND SCOTLAND ON HER TRIAL TRIP ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg™ electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG™ -concept and trademark. 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