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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #67928 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/67928)
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-The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Cruise of the Royal Mail Steamer
-Dunottar Castle Round Scotland on Her Trial Trip, by W. Scott Dalgleish
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
-will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
-using this eBook.
-
-Title: The Cruise of the Royal Mail Steamer Dunottar Castle Round
-       Scotland on Her Trial Trip
-
-Author: W. Scott Dalgleish
-
-Release Date: April 26, 2022 [eBook #67928]
-
-Language: English
-
-Produced by: Fay Dunn, Fiona Holmes and the Online Distributed
-             Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
-             produced from images generously made available by The
-             Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
-
-*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CRUISE OF THE ROYAL MAIL
-STEAMER DUNOTTAR CASTLE ROUND SCOTLAND ON HER TRIAL TRIP ***
-
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber’s Notes
-
- Hyphenation has been standardised.
-
- In the Illustration list the page number 32 was missing and
-   has been included.
-
- On Page v, the word Cathedra has been changed to Cathedral (drawings
-   of the Cathedral and the Earl’s Palace at Kirkwall).
-
-
-
-
-_With Sir Donald Currie’s Compliments._
-
-
-
-
-    THE CRUISE OF
-
-    THE ROYAL MAIL STEAMER
-
-    Dunottar Castle
-
-    ROUND SCOTLAND ON HER TRIAL TRIP
-
-    [Illustration: _Dunottar Castle_]
-
-
-    EDINBURGH
-    Printed by T. and A. CONSTABLE
-    Printers to Her Majesty
-
-    1890
-
-
-CRUISE OF THE ‘DUNOTTAR CASTLE’
-
-
-FOREWORD
-
-
-The first suggestion of this Record of a very charming trip came from
-SIR DONALD CURRIE, the genial and courteous Host of our palatial ‘House
-Boat.’ Others pressed the task upon me; but no great pressure was
-required for so congenial a work. Indeed, I need hardly say that the
-preparation of the story of our Cruise has given me infinite pleasure.
-
-My efforts have been ably seconded by the artistic skill of my
-fellow-guests, Dr. LENNOX BROWNE of London, and Miss CECILIA G.
-BLACKWOOD, whose facile pencils have contributed to the work many
-clever and beautiful illustrations. I am indebted to Mr. T. MACLAREN
-for the architectural drawings of the Cathedral and the Earl’s Palace
-at Kirkwall; while a few of the pictures are taken from photographs
-by Miss MUNN, another of our gifted passengers. The whole have
-been reproduced with great skill by the various engravers, with the
-assistance, and under the supervision, of Mr. JOHN GULICH, who has also
-contributed a few original drawings.
-
-It is perhaps fitting that I should offer an apology to the good folks
-on board the ‘Dunottar Castle,’ who may not have been prepared for this
-realisation of the words of the poet:—
-
-  ‘A chiel’s amang ye takin’ notes,
-  And, faith, he’ll prent it.’
-
-  W. SCOTT DALGLEISH.
-
- EDINBURGH, _October 1890_.
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-CONTENTS
-
-
-                                                      PAGE
-
-    I.    CONCERNING THE GOOD SHIP,                    17
-
-    II.   IN THE FIRTH OF CLYDE,                       24
-
-    III.  AMONG THE SOUTHERN HEBRIDES,                 30
-
-    IV.   IN THE SOUND OF MULL,                        35
-
-    V.    ROUND ABOUT SKYE,                            46
-
-    VI.   WILD LOCH ALSH AND DARK LOCH DUICH,          52
-
-    VII.  ROUND CAPE WRATH,                            63
-
-    VIII. A RAID ON ORKNEY,                            70
-
-    IX.   OUR SHIP’S NAME-MOTHER,                      76
-
-    X.    A DAY OF REST,                               83
-
-    XI.   HOMEWARD BOUND,                              87
-
-    XII.  IN THE FIRTH OF FORTH,                       92
-
-    EPILOGUE,                                          95
-
-
-
-
-ILLUSTRATIONS
-
-
-                                      ARTIST         ENGRAVER
-
- R.M.S. ‘Dunottar Castle’                                  _Frontispiece_.
-
- Dunottar Castle from the
-  Shore                            _John Blair_   _C. Hentschel_ _Vignette
-                                                                  Title_.
-
-                                                                     PAGE
-
- The Music Saloon                 _John Gulich_      _John Swain_     18
-
- A Corner of the Ladies’
-  Boudoir                             _do._            _do._          19
-
- The Smoking-room                     _do._            _do._          20
-
- The Main-Deck                _M. Munn_ (_Photo._)     _do._          21
-
- The Ship on the Stocks at
-  Fairfield                     _Lennox Browne_        _do._          23
-
- Arran—from the Firth of Clyde       _do._           _Hare and Co._   27
-
- Lamlash Bay and Holy Isle           _do._           _John Swain_     28
-
- Scarba and the Isles
-  —from Mull                         _do._             _do._          31
-
- Loch Buy Head—from Carsaig          _do._             _do._          31
-
- Outside of Kerrera—Ben
-  Cruachan in the distance    _Cecelia G. Blackwood_ _Hare and Co._   32
-
- Dunolly Castle, Oban           _Lennox Browne_     _John Swain_      33
-
- The ‘Iolanthe’ off Oban
-  —Rainy Weather                    _do._              _do._          33
-
- Oban and the Bay               (_From Photograph_)    _do._          34
-
- Oban Pier                      _Lennox Browne_        _do._          34
-
- The Mull Hills—from Kerrera   _C. G. Blackwood_ _Hare and Co._       35
-
- Lismore Lighthouse             _Lennox Browne_   _John Swain_        36
-
- Castle Duart, Mull                 _do._         _Hare and Co._      37
-
- Calve Island, Tobermory            _do._         _John Swain_        38
-
- Ardnamurchan Point                 _do._         _Hare and Co._      39
-
- Loch Sunart                        _do._              _do._          40
-
- The Narrows—Loch Sunart      _Lennox Browne_    _John Swain_         40
-
- Mist Rainbow on Ardnamurchan
-  —off Tobermory Lighthouse         _do._        _Hare and Co._       41
-
- Glengorm, Mull                     _do._              _do._          41
-
- The Trishnish Islands              _do._         _John Swain_        42
-
- Distant View of Staffa             _do._              _do._          43
-
- The Pilot and a Tobermory          _do._              _do._          44
-   Lassie
-
- Ardtornish Castle                  _do._              _do._          45
-
- The ‘Iolanthe’ off Eigg
-  and Rum                           _do._              _do._          46
-
- Loch Scavaig                       _do._              _do._          47
-
- Mountains in Mist—Skye             _do._              _do._          49
-
- Detached Rocks—Coast of
-  Skye                              _do._              _do._          50
-
- Near Strome Ferry           _C. G. Blackwood_    _Hare and Co._      51
-
- Outside of Portree Bay
-  —Sunrise                   _Lennox Browne_     _John Swain_         52
-
- Scalpa Island, Skye                _do._              _do._          53
-
- Whale blowing—off Skye      _M. Munn (Photo.)_        _do._          53
-
- Loch Carron—from Strome
-    Ferry                    _Lennox Browne_          _do._           54
-
- Head of Loch Carron—from
-    Strome Ferry                   _do._              _do._           54
-
- Misty Morning—Loch Carron  _C. G. Blackwood_    _Hare and Co._       55
-
- The Coolins—the ‘Dunottar
-    Castle’                  _Lennox Browne_     _John Swain_         55
-
- Kyle Akin                         _do._          _Hare and Co._      56
-
- Castle Maoil—near Kyle
-   Akin                            _do._          _John Swain_        57
-
- In Loch Alsh—Skye in the
-  Distance                    _C. G. Blackwood_        _do._          57
-
- Eilean Donan Castle,
-  Loch Duich                  _Lennox Browne_          _do._          58
-
- Entrance to Loch Duich            _do._               _do._          58
-
- Head of Loch Duich                _do._          _Hare and Co._      59
-
- The Coolins—from
-  Loch Alsh                        _do._               _do._          60
-
- Sammy and the Piper               _do._          _John Swain_        61
-
- Head of Loch Kishorn         _C. G. Blackwood_   _Hare and Co._      62
-
- Rona Island—Lewis and
-  Harris in the distance      _Lennox Browne_    _John Swain_         63
-
- Summer Sheen—in Skye
-  Waters                     _M. Munn_ (_Photo._)      _do._          64
-
- The Coolins—Blaven
-  —Marsco                     _Lennox Browne_    _Hare and Co._       65
-
- Cape Wrath                       _do._           _John Swain_        66
-
- Thurso—from the Bay             _do._           _Hare and Co._       67
-
- The Old Man of Hoy               _do._           _John Swain_        68
-
- Copinsay Island, Orkney          _do._           _Hare and Co._      70
-
- Kirkwall—from the Bay           _do._           _John Swain_         71
-
- The Earl’s Palace, Kirkwall   _T. Maclaren_           _do._          72
-
- Gable of the Earl’s Palace,
-  Kirkwall                        _do._                _do._          73
-
- West Door, Kirkwall Cathedral    _do._                _do._          75
-
- Dunottar Castle—from a
-  Port-hole                    _Lennox Browne_         _do._          77
-
- Dunottar Castle in the
-  Olden Time                  (_From an old Print_)   . . .           79
-
- Montrose—from the Sea        _Lennox Browne_      _John Swain_       82
-
- Entrance to Loch Torridon     _C. G. Blackwood_    _Hare and Co._    86
-
- The Bell Rock Lighthouse      _Lennox Browne_      _John Swain_      87
-
- May Island                       _do._                _do._          88
-
- Tantallon Castle                 _do._                _do._          88
-
- The Bass Rock                    _do._                _do._          90
-
- Inchkeith                        _do._                _do._          91
-
- Edinburgh—from Leith
-  Roads                           _do._            _Hare and Co._     92
-
- The Tug in Leith Roads           _do._            _John Swain_       94
-
-
-[Illustration: FROM LEITH ROADS]
-
-[Illustration: _Dunottar Castle from the Shore_]
-
-
-
-
-THE LOG
-
-
-1890.
-
- _August 30. Saturday._—Sailed from Greenock, down the Firth of Clyde,
- and round Arran. Anchored in Lamlash Bay.
-
- _31. Sunday._—Sailed round Mull of Cantire, and through the Sound of
- Islay. Met the ‘Iolanthe.’ Anchored off north point of Kerrera.
-
-_Sept. 1. Monday._—Lay at anchor all day. Visited Oban.
-
- _2. Tuesday._—Sailed up Sound of Mull. Visited Ardnamurchan, Loch
- Sunart, and Trishnish Islands in ‘Iolanthe.’ Anchored at Tobermory.
-
- _3. Wednesday._—Sailed between Eigg and Rum to Loch Scavaig. Visited
- Loch Coruisk. Sailed round Skye. Anchored off Portree.
-
- _4. Thursday._—Visited Strome Ferry, Loch Alsh, and Loch Duich in
- ‘Iolanthe.’ Anchored in Loch Kishorn.
-
- _5. Friday._—Sailed up west coast, round Cape Wrath, and along north
- coast. Anchored in Scrabster Roads, Thurso.
-
- _6. Saturday._—Sailed through Pentland Firth, to Kirkwall in the
- Orkneys. Anchored in Kirkwall Bay. Visited Kirkwall Cathedral,
- the Maeshowe, and the Stones of Brogar and Stenness. Started at 6
- P.M. and sailed southward.
-
- _7. Sunday._—Sailed past Aberdeen, Stonehaven, Dunottar Castle,
- Montrose, the Bass Rock, etc. Anchored at Leith.
-
- _8. Monday._—Visited the Forth Bridge in the ‘Iolanthe.’ Ship visited
- by Corporations of Edinburgh and Leith, and by the public. Guests
- debarked. Ship sailed for London in the evening.
-
-
-[Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-CRUISE OF THE ‘DUNOTTAR CASTLE’
-
-
-
-
-I
-
-CONCERNING THE GOOD SHIP
-
-
-The ‘Dunottar Castle’ is the twenty-first ship built for the ‘Castle’
-Company, and is the largest, and in all respects the most perfect, of
-all the vessels engaged in the South African Royal Mail Service. This
-fine vessel was built by the Fairfield Shipbuilding and Engineering
-Company of Govan, Glasgow, under the direction of Mr. Saxon White, the
-Manager of that Company, and the supervision of Mr. John List and Mr.
-George Scott of the ‘Castle’ Line. The fact that the ship was ordered
-from the Fairfield Company without competing contracts being invited
-from other firms, is a proof of the confidence which Sir Donald Currie
-had in the builders.
-
-This is especially noteworthy when the dimensions and the capacity of
-the ship are remembered. She exceeds the largest of her sister ships,
-the ‘Roslin Castle’ by 1000 tons, the gross tonnage of the ‘Dunottar
-Castle’ being nearly 5500 tons, and her net tonnage 3069. Her length
-is 435 feet; the extreme breadth is 50 feet; and she is 36 feet deep.
-The hull is constructed entirely of steel, with a continuous double
-cellular bottom, and with eight vertical bulk-heads, which extend to
-the upper deck, and divide the ship into nine water-tight compartments.
-The engines are of the triple-expansion type, the cylinders being
-respectively 38 inches, 61½ inches, and 100 inches in diameter, with
-a stroke of 5 feet 6 inches. Between 6000 and 7000 horse-power can be
-developed. Steam is supplied at a pressure of 160 lbs. to the square
-inch, by four large steam boilers and a supplementary boiler, each with
-six corrugated furnaces.
-
-[Illustration: THE MUSIC SALOON]
-
-The steamer has accommodation for 360 passengers—170 first class, 100
-second class, and 100 third class; but the last class is capable of
-being increased by 150 at least. The crew consists of 150 officers
-and men, commanded by Captain Webster, the senior Captain of the
-‘Castle’ Company. Each of the dining saloons accommodates at one time
-the whole complement of passengers assigned to it,—a point of no
-small importance, as the trouble and worry of double meals are thereby
-avoided. The ship is admirably equipped in every particular, and the
-furnishings are of the most elegant character. The first-class dining
-saloon is a very handsome apartment, with panelled walls and dado, and
-is furnished throughout with refined taste. Abaft of this saloon, there
-is a supplementary saloon for children and nurses. Forming a spacious
-gallery above the dining saloon is the music-room, which is beautifully
-decorated in white and gold, and exquisitely furnished in old-gold
-upholstery. Adjoining this, and separated from it by a handsome
-screen of bevelled glass, is the ladies’ boudoir, which is also most
-luxuriously furnished.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-  A CORNER OF
-  THE LADIES’
-  BOUDOIR]
-
-A notable feature of this part of the ship is the spacious double
-staircase, leading from the saloon to the main and upper decks. Like
-the saloon itself, it is handsomely decorated with solid panels,
-and every detail is conceived and executed in good taste. Abaft the
-main deck state-rooms, there is a handsome and very comfortable
-smoking-room, with bar attached, which is much superior to the
-ordinary smoking-rooms of ocean-going steamers, in respect both of
-size and of furnishings. Behind the staircase on the upper deck is the
-reading-room, which contains writing-tables, book-shelves, and lounges.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-  THE
-  SMOKING
-  ROOM]
-
-This may be the proper place to mention that the ship’s library, of
-nearly five hundred volumes, is exceedingly attractive and well
-selected. It contains many standard works in history, travels, and
-fiction, including some of the most recent publications. It also
-contains valuable books of reference, in the shape of atlases and
-gazetteers, and a representative selection of music, including
-Scottish, English, and Irish songs and glees. The man or the woman
-would be very difficult to please who could not find within the ship
-itself, with its pianos, organ, and library, ample resources for
-spending pleasantly and profitably three or four weeks at sea.
-
-The promenade deck is exceptionally spacious, and affords ample
-room for those recreations with which time is wont to be beguiled
-in tropical seas. The first-class state-rooms are fitted up in a
-very handsome, luxurious style, with iron spring-beds, sofas, and
-lavatories, all constructed on the most approved principles.
-
-[Illustration: _The Main-Deck._]
-
-The intermediate sleeping-berths differ but little, in point of comfort
-and convenience, from those assigned to first-class passengers; and
-the dining-saloon, which has its own piano and organ, is infinitely
-superior to what we were accustomed to in old-fashioned steamers. The
-third-class accommodation is altogether superior to that provided in
-the general run of ocean-going steamers.
-
-The sanitary arrangements include some special features, one of which
-is an improved system of ventilation with compressed air. Marble
-baths, and all the most approved lavatory appliances, are provided in
-sumptuous fashion. A novel luxury in the ‘Castle’ liners is a barber’s
-shop, with a rotatory hair-brushing machine worked by an electric
-motor. Indeed, scarcely anything is lacking which could be desired by
-the most fastidious traveller on shore.
-
-One of the greatest charms of the ship is the electric lighting, which
-is carried out on a perfect scale. Nothing has done so much as the
-introduction of the electric light to make ocean-travelling comfortable
-and safe. It is bright and cleanly, and it is always available. It
-is an immense advantage to be able to turn on a bright light in your
-state-room at any moment. The evening hours in the saloon, instead of
-being dreary, are looked forward to with pleasure, and are thoroughly
-enjoyed. In point of fact, the saloon is quite as brilliant at night as
-during the day.
-
-The decks also are brightly lighted up at night with electric cluster
-lights, as well as with single lamps, so that dancing and other
-recreations can be carried on with the greatest comfort. The ship’s
-band of ten or twelve instruments is also an excellent institution,
-which does much to relieve the tedium of the voyage.
-
-The rapidity with which the ‘Dunottar Castle’ was got into working
-order speaks well for the resources and the organising power of the
-Clyde shipbuilders. When the ship was launched at Govan, on May 22d,
-she was a mere hulk—a huge steel case intersected with a few floors
-and partitions. When the trial trip took place on August 28th, exactly
-fourteen weeks later, she was completely finished, furnished, and
-manned, and was ready in every particular to undertake a long voyage.
-Those who saw her at the Tail of the Bank, off Greenock, at the latter
-date, had some difficulty in believing that she was the same vessel.
-Everything was in its place, down to the minutest curtain-ring and the
-smallest carpet-tack; and every man was at his post, from the Captain
-to the cabin-boy.
-
-The behaviour of the ship on the trial trip was admirable, and left
-nothing to be desired. The day was splendid, and everything went
-well. The ship attained a speed of 17½ knots on the measured mile,
-off Skelmorlie, and both builders and owners were satisfied with the
-results, as they had good reason to be.
-
-[Illustration: _The Ship on the Stocks—May 22, 1890._]
-
-
-
-
-II
-
-IN THE FIRTH OF CLYDE
-
-
-The trial cruise will not soon be forgotten by those who were
-privileged to take part in it. The trip was worthy of the great ship,
-and worthy of the famous ‘Castle’ Line. The strangers and foreigners,
-the Englishmen and the colonists, who were of the party, had an
-opportunity of seeing all that is grandest in Scottish coast-scenery,
-such as is enjoyed by few natives; and every Scotsman on board must
-have felt proud of his country.
-
-The course taken was the converse of that of Agricola, when his galleys
-sailed round Scotland, and proved for the first time that Britain was
-an island. While the Romans sailed, or rather rowed in open galleys,
-from the Firth of Forth to the Firth of Clyde, the ‘Dunottar Castle’
-pleasure-party steamed from the Clyde to the Forth in a veritable
-floating palace, replete with the comforts of advanced civilisation,
-and embodying the most recent developments of science in the
-applications of steam and of electricity. The contrast is almost too
-great to be appreciated even by the most imaginative modern mind. It is
-difficult to realise what the feelings of James Watt, or of Henry Bell,
-would be were they permitted to see to what perfection the results of
-their inventive genius have been brought by their successors.
-
-Perhaps few of those who entered on the expedition realised the useful
-purposes which it served. They thought only of the pleasant holiday
-provided for them; but in truth it answered a more practical and more
-important end. It was, in fact, a preliminary trial, in which the crew
-and all the officers, including the stewards, were put through their
-facings, and in which the commissariat and other resources of the
-management were subjected to a pretty severe test. The whole routine of
-the daily life was precisely similar to that which will prevail in the
-regular voyages of the ship from London to the Cape, and it is but just
-to say that the results were entirely satisfactory.
-
-The ‘Dunottar Castle’ presented a splendid appearance as she rode at
-anchor at the Tail of the Bank, off Greenock, on Saturday, August 30th,
-awaiting the arrival of the invited guests of Sir Donald Currie. Being
-light of draught, she lay high in the water, and made everything else
-in the neighbourhood, even an American liner, look small in comparison,
-while her beautiful lines were seen to the greatest advantage. On
-board, everything was ship-shape and in good order; and when Sir Donald
-Currie, on his arrival from Garth, was received on the main deck about
-noon, by Captain Webster and his officers, it might have been supposed
-that the steamer had been in commission for years, and was undergoing
-an inspection on her return from one of her ocean voyages.
-
-The view from the upper deck was magnificent. Few scenes in the British
-Isles can compare in beauty and variety with the estuary of the Clyde
-opposite Greenock. We stood in the centre of a wide cyclorama, nearly
-every point in which glowed in brilliant sunshine. Greenock alone was
-dark and murky, as is its wont. Even Gourock gleamed in colour, as it
-caught the sun’s rays emerging from the mists. Dumbarton Castle loomed
-large in the warm haze to the eastward. Helensburgh basked peacefully
-on its wooded slopes. Kilcreggan and Cove smiled in their leafy bowers,
-while beyond them Ben Lomond raised on high its massive head. Westward,
-the rugged ridge of the Arrochar Hills and Argyll’s Bowling Green
-filled up the distance. Then the line of view descended again at Strone
-Point, and the placid Holy Loch, and the bright villas of Hunter’s
-Quay, and so the circuit was complete.
-
-When the last tug-load of passengers and luggage had been received on
-board, the anchor was weighed, and the majestic ship steamed down the
-Firth past the Cloch lighthouse, past Castle Wemyss, and Wemyss Bay,
-and Skelmorlie, on the one side, and past Dunoon and Inellan on the
-other. Off the Greater Cumbrae we lay-to, in order to receive on board
-Lord Provost Muir of Glasgow, who, with his brother Commissioners of
-the Clyde Trust, had been engaged in an inspection of the lighthouses
-on these coasts. Their little steamer drew up alongside, and the
-Commissioners were courteously received on board and were shown over
-the ship. The Commissioners, _minus_ the Lord Provost, were dismissed
-with a cheer, and we proceeded on our way.
-
-Passing Rothesay Bay and Mount Stuart House, one of the Marquis of
-Bute’s residences, we enter a wider sea, and get a fine view of
-Goatfell and the rugged peaks of Arran which surround Glen Sannox.
-Opposite that weird glen, of evil omen, we turn northward, and steam
-past the Fallen Rocks, and round the north point of Arran into
-Kilbrannan Sound, our purpose being to sail round Arran and to anchor
-for the night in Lamlash Bay. We have a pleasant glimpse, in passing,
-of Loch Ranza and its rugged keep, and of the valleys and ‘cols’ that
-lead over to Glen Sannox and Glen Rosa. The west coast of Arran,
-however, is distinctly tame, and gives few tokens of cultivation and
-industry, until we approach the south end of the island. There are,
-indeed, more signs of an active population on the peninsula of Cantire,
-on our right. Arran, however, can boast of historical, or at least of
-traditional, interest, for the King’s Cave, near Blackwaterfoot, is
-said to have been the first resting-place of Robert the Bruce on his
-landing from Rathlin Island.
-
-[Illustration: _Arran—from the Firth of Clyde._]
-
-As we steam southward, that island and the Irish coast are clearly
-visible beyond the Mull of Cantire. Looking back from this point, the
-picturesque outline of the mountains in the north of Arran stands out
-boldly against the northern sky, while southward we see Ailsa Craig
-and its pale grey rocks, with their myriads of gannets. By-and-by, in
-the gloamin’, we pass Whiting Bay, in which at least half a hundred
-small boats are busily engaged in deep-sea fishing. Then we steam
-cautiously between Holy Island and King’s Cross Point (another landmark
-of the Bruce) into Lamlash Bay, where we drop anchor, and prepare to
-dine in peace.
-
-[Illustration: _Lamlash Bay and Holy Isle._]
-
-We then begin to realise the importance of the fact that our cruise
-is to be one of pleasure, as well as of practical use, in a sense
-not previously thought of. We are to steam ahead during daylight,
-and our nights are to be spent peacefully at anchor in quiet waters.
-The arrangement is not only comfortable on that account, but is
-also convenient, inasmuch as we shall miss very little of the
-coast-scenery—none of it, indeed, if we are careful to rise betimes.
-
-As we lay at our anchorage, we had an opportunity of realising what the
-electric light has done for navigation, not merely in the brilliant
-lighting of our own ship, but in that of several of the Clyde steamers.
-When the ‘Duchess of Hamilton,’ a coasting steamer, passed through the
-bay with her lights gleaming, she might have been a floating firework
-displayed for our special gratification.
-
-Calmly and peacefully the night was passed. Some spent an hour
-pleasantly in the Music Saloon, under the spell of music and song.
-Others found more congenial occupation in the Smoking-room. Not a few
-lingered on deck till a late hour, bewitched by the galaxy of stars,
-or watching the glimmering lights of the Lamlash cottages, as, one by
-one, they succumbed to the demands of repose, and bade us a silent
-‘good-night.’ One or two adventurous rowing boats came out at a late
-hour to inspect the monster of the deep that had suddenly disturbed the
-quiet of the bay; but the plash of their oars soon died away, and our
-little world was left in a silence that was felt.
-
-[Illustration: _Ailsa Craig._]
-
-
-
-
-III
-
-AMONG THE SOUTHERN HEBRIDES
-
-
-If the denizens of Lamlash were looking forward to obtaining a good
-view of the ‘Dunottar Castle’ next day (Sunday), they must have been
-grievously disappointed, for we made an early start, and were out of
-the bay before the majority of them were out of their beds. By seven
-o’clock, we had rounded the Mull of Cantire, and were beginning to feel
-the swell of the Atlantic. The morning was clear and crisp, and both
-sea and sky seemed joyous in the sunshine. Nearly every one was on deck
-for an hour before breakfast, and the sharp air was most exhilarating.
-
-[Illustration: _Scarba and the Isles—from Mull._]
-
-[Illustration: _Loch Buy Head—from Carsaig, Mull._]
-
-The Irish coast remained in sight for several hours; but still more
-attractive was the view of the west coast of Cantire. Machrihanish
-Bay awakened pleasant memories in the golfers on board. They had been
-there, and still would go; and very tempting the bay looked with its
-gleaming sands and sparkling wavelets. Our course now lay through the
-Sound of Islay, which runs between that island and its sister Jura.
-Long before we reached the Sound, we were once more in quiet water
-under the lee of Islay, and with the well-marked Paps of Jura right
-ahead. In the Sound, the sea was absolutely still, and there we had
-morning service, reverently conducted by Captain Webster, Sir Donald
-Currie reading the lessons. Shortly afterwards we met, by appointment,
-our host’s large steam yacht, the ‘Iolanthe,’ which attended us
-during the remainder of our cruise, and added greatly to our enjoyment
-by taking us into narrow and shallow lochs and sounds into which the
-great ship could not have ventured. Mr. James Currie, of Leith, with
-his family, was on board, and did all in his power to render our
-voyage an agreeable one. The interest of the sail increased as we
-passed northward between Jura and Colonsay. The weather was superb.
-The Sabbath calm seemed to have settled down on hill and sea. It was a
-day for lounging on deck, and for gazing at the summer sky, or on the
-Islands of the Blest which surrounded us.
-
-[Illustration: _Outside of Kerrera—Ben Cruachan in the distance._]
-
-We were prepared for a toss at the Strait of Corrievreckan; but
-though the boiling of the tide was perceptible to the eye, it was
-unappreciable by any other sense, at least to those in the massive
-‘Dunottar Castle.’ As we crossed the Firth of Lorne, the mountains of
-Argyllshire came into full view, Ben Cruachan and Ben More of Mull
-being specially conspicuous. Off Scarba, we made a wide detour westward
-in the direction of the Ross of Mull, so that we might see its cliffs
-and caves and the shores of dark Loch Buy.
-
-[Illustration: _Dunolly Castle, Oban._]
-
-Toward evening, we reached our anchorage at the northern point of
-Kerrera, but outside of Oban Bay, which is crowded at this season with
-yachts and other small craft. We were opposite to David Hutchison’s
-monument, set up near the scene of his labours, to remind travellers of
-the great things which he did for them, and for Scotland, in opening up
-the Western Highlands to swift steamer traffic. We had also a distant
-view of Dunolly Castle, the ancestral home of the Macdougalls. Evening
-service was conducted by Sir Arthur Blackwood, Secretary of the General
-Post-Office, London; and the earnestness and freshness of his address
-were highly appreciated.
-
-[Illustration: _The ‘Iolanthe’ off Oban—Rainy Weather._]
-
-The weather changed in the night, and we awoke to find ourselves
-enveloped in mist and in drizzling rain. A projected trip up Loch
-Linnhe to Ballachulish was consequently abandoned; and we spent the
-whole day at our anchorage, awaiting the arrival of expected guests
-at Oban, who were brought off in the ‘Iolanthe,’ and thence in the
-steam launch. Those of us who were so inclined had thus an opportunity
-of seeing the capital of the Western Highlands, though not under the
-most favourable conditions; of visiting its attractive shops, and
-of admiring, though at a safe distance, its numerous or innumerable
-hotels. When it rains on this coast it does so with a vengeance. In
-fine weather Oban is one of the most beautiful places in Scotland; on a
-wet day it is one of the most disagreeable under heaven.
-
-[Illustration: _View of Oban and Bay._]
-
-[Illustration: _Oban Pier._]
-
-
-
-
-IV
-
-IN THE SOUND OF MULL
-
-
-[Illustration: _The Mull Hills—from Kerrera._]
-
-Next morning (Tuesday) finds us in the Sound of Mull, one of the most
-beautiful and romantic of Highland seas. The lighthouse full astern
-stands on the point of the island of Lismore, anciently the seat of the
-Bishops of Argyll, and still more famous as the home of its Dean, James
-Macgregor, who, in the sixteenth century, made a valuable collection
-of poems in Gaelic and English, well known as the ‘Book of the Dean
-of Lismore.’ The picturesque ruin at the entrance to the Sound, on
-the eastmost point of Mull, is Duart Castle, the home of the Macleans.
-Not far off is the ‘Lady Rock,’ which disappears at high-water, and
-on which one of the Macleans once left his wife, intending that she
-should perish when the tide rose and covered the rock. She was Ellen of
-Lorne, a sister of the Earl of Argyll. One of her brothers rescued her,
-and afterwards slew Maclean. Such stories are common in these regions:
-they cling, like the ivy, to every ruined tower. These traditions of
-lawlessness and vengeance formed the greater part of the education of
-the people.
-
-[Illustration: _Lismore Lighthouse._]
-
-By and by we pass on the right Ardtornish Castle, a stronghold of the
-Lords of the Isles, and memorable as the site of the opening of Scott’s
-poem:—
-
-    ‘Thy rugged halls, Ardtornish! rung,
-    And the dark seas, thy towers that lave,
-    Heaved on the beach a softer wave,
-    As ’mid the tuneful choir to keep
-    The diapason of the Deep.
-    Lulled were the winds on Inninmore,
-    And green Loch Aline’s woodland shore,
-    As if wild woods and waves had pleasure
-    In listing to the lovely measure.’
-
-The ruins of Ardtornish are near the entrance to Loch Aline, and under
-the shadow of the massive and bare hills of Morven. These hills had
-a never-ending charm for Dr. Norman M‘Leod, whose native village of
-Morven lies on the east coast of the Sound, nearly opposite Tobermory.
-The Sound to-day is in one of its angry moods: clouds obscure the sun;
-mists cling to the mountains, and the sullen sky is reflected in the
-fretful sea.
-
-[Illustration: _Castle Duart—Mull._]
-
-Presently we pass on the left the ruins of Aros Castle, another of
-those rock-built fortresses which are so numerous on these coasts. The
-stupendous mountain-wall which appears to close up the Sound at the
-north end is the rocky peninsula of Ardnamurchan, the most westerly
-point on the British mainland. At its base stands yet another ruined
-castle, that of Mingarry, also a stronghold of the Lords of the Isles,
-and woven with warp of treachery and woof of heroism into their
-adventurous story.
-
-[Illustration: Calve Isl^d. Tobermory]
-
-Passing Tobermory Bay, to which we shall return by-and-by, we sail
-beyond Ardnamurchan Point, and have a distant view of the Scuir of
-Eigg and the graceful outline of the mountains of Rum. The mists lift
-somewhat, and give us a view of the north coast of Mull, and of the
-bold beetling headland of Ardnamurchan, with its tall lighthouse thrust
-out into the sea. Then we return to Tobermory, the quaint and primitive
-capital of Mull, and anchor in its lovely Bay.
-
-The village, which, like a few other places in the Highlands, looks
-best at a distance, skirts two sides of the Bay. The western banks are
-steep and richly wooded. On the east, the Bay is cut off from the sea
-by the small island of Calve, which forms a natural breakwater, thus
-producing a spacious and very safe anchorage. Aros House, imbedded in
-woods, stands on the south side of the Bay, and near it there is a very
-fine waterfall on the stream which emerges from the Mishnish Lochs—a
-favourite resort of anglers. From the deck, a lovely view of the Sound
-of Mull is seen over the crest of Calve. The hills in the distance are
-dark, but the east shores of the Sound are lighted up with gleams of
-sunshine, developing marvellous combinations of colour.
-
-[Illustration: _Ardnamurchan Point._]
-
-The day being still young, the ‘Iolanthe’ is brought into requisition,
-and a delightful trip is made up Loch Sunart, a veritable fiord in its
-windings, and its narrowness, and its flanking mountains. As we enter
-the Loch, we catch one of those occasional and transient effects which
-delight artists, but which it is hazardous to paint, and still more
-difficult to reproduce without colour. A brilliant rainbow rests one of
-its extremities on the massive hill of Ardnamurchan, and practically
-cuts it in two; one half of it being melted away under the changing
-colours of the arch.
-
-[Illustration: _Loch Sunart._]
-
-[Illustration: _The Narrows—Loch Sunart._]
-
-It was during this trip that some members of the party developed
-extraordinary skill in the game of deck quoits, while others indulged
-in athletic sports of various kinds, terminating in a ‘tug-of-war’ in
-which nearly every man and boy on board took part. It was alleged,
-however, with what truth I know not, that a majority of those on the
-winning side wore deck shoes with india-rubber soles. Nevertheless,
-they maintained stoutly that ‘it was weight that told.’ The sail up
-Loch Sunart was very enjoyable. A fair breeze was blowing, and the sun,
-which had been concealed before, burst through the clouds, and shed
-beauty on the landscape.
-
-[Illustration:
-
- _Mist Rainbow on Ardnamurchan—off Tobermory Lighthouse._]
-
-[Illustration: _Glengorm—Mull._]
-
-In the afternoon we embarked on the ‘Iolanthe’ again, and sailed round
-the north coast of Mull in fairly good weather, past Ardmore Point,
-past Glengorm Castle (the property of Mr. James Cowan), past Caliach
-Point, and Calgary Castle with its marvellous silver strand, and past
-Trishnish Point, in the direction of the Trishnish Islands. A farmhouse
-near Caliach Point has an interest for literary men. Thomas Campbell
-the poet spent five months there as tutor when a young man; and there
-he first conceived the theme of _The Pleasures of Hope_. Another poet
-has revelled in this region; for the Trishnish Islands belong to the
-group described by Scott:—
-
-    ‘The shores of Mull on the eastward lay,
-    And Ulva dark, and Colonsay,
-    And all the group of islets gay
-      That guard famed Staffa round.
-    Then all unknown its columns rose,
-    Where dark and undisturbed repose
-      The cormorant had found,
-    And the shy seal had quiet home,
-    And weltered in that wondrous dome,
-    Where, as to shame the temples decked
-    By skill of earthly architect,
-    Nature herself, it seemed, would raise
-    A Minster to her Maker’s praise!’
-
-[Illustration: _The Trishnish Islands._]
-
-The Trishnish Islands are covered with rich grass, which makes
-excellent pasture. The Laird of Calgary fattens his mutton there during
-the summer months, and sends out a yacht once a fortnight to capture
-two or three sheep for use. As the animals are as wild and as swift
-as deer, capturing them is no easy task. They are generally driven by
-a contracting line of men and boys into a trap made with spars and a
-sail between two rocks on the shore; but they often break through the
-cordon, and even leap sometimes over the heads of the drivers.
-
-[Illustration: _Distant View of Staffa._]
-
-This, however, is a digression. The rough sea, and consideration for
-the weaker vessels of the party, male and female, induced Sir Donald
-Currie to abandon the intention of visiting Staffa, with a distant view
-of which the guests had to be satisfied. It is noteworthy that this
-yachting cruise was the only occasion, during the whole trip, on which
-symptoms of sea-sickness showed themselves. It may be added that the
-most serious case was that of Sir Donald’s young piper, who had never
-been on the sea before; but scarcely had the yacht been put about when
-a few blasts of a pibroch, recalling memories of the braes of Garth
-and Glenlyon, gave audible proofs of his convalescence, and indeed
-completed the cure. On returning to Tobermory we landed, and enjoyed a
-refreshing walk on the shore before dinner: some exploring the woods
-about Aros House, and others climbing to the heights that surround the
-town, whence a wider view was obtained.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-  _The Pilot._—— _A Tobermory Lassie._]
-
-
-The evening was given up to recreation, including dancing to the music
-of the ship’s band, under the awning on the promenade deck, which,
-lighted up with electric lamps, made a spacious and brilliant ballroom.
-This was carried on in presence of nearly the whole population of
-Tobermory, which had come out, on Sir Donald’s invitation, to see
-the stately ship. The performances were not by any means confined to
-the saloon folks. Our stalwart pilot, relieved of his duties for the
-night, came out strong in the ‘reels’; and, having shown his paces in
-a ‘fling’ with our chief, he was in great request with the Tobermory
-lassies, with one of whom he engaged in a kind of terpsichorean duel,
-which reminded the spectators of
-
-    ‘The dancing pair that, simply, sought renown
-    By holding out to tire each other down.’
-
-Another hero of the dance was one of the quartermasters, who was a
-match for any of the natives, or, for that matter, for any of the crew,
-engineers or seamen. It was a case of ‘one down, another come on,’
-and the contest might have lasted till break of day. Unfortunately,
-however, the festivities were marred by a heavy downpour of rain; but
-that did not prevent the singing of ‘Auld Lang Syne’ and ‘God save the
-Queen,’ or hearty cheers for our host, before the party broke up. One
-could not but feel sorry for the poor people who had to find their way
-to the shore in the dark, and through the pelting, pitiless rain.
-
-[Illustration: _Ardtornish Castle._]
-
-
-
-
-V
-
-ROUND ABOUT SKYE
-
-
-Wednesday morning was dull and misty. We had to feel our way cautiously
-between Eigg and Rum in the direction of Skye. No view could be
-obtained either of the Coolins or of the mountains of the mainland.
-It was indeed tantalising to know that we were in the neighbourhood
-of some of the grandest scenery in Scotland, and to be unable to
-see a vestige of it, except occasionally a few outlying rocks, or a
-mountainous headland swept by the mist. Early in the day we cast anchor
-in the Sound of Soa, near the entrance to Loch Scavaig.
-
-[Illustration: _The ‘Iolanthe’ off Eigg and Rum._]
-
-[Illustration: _Loch Scavaig._]
-
-The object of stopping at that point in the voyage was to visit Loch
-Coruisk, the wildest and most desolate of Highland lochs, imbedded in
-the heart of the Coolins. In spite of the mist and the threatening
-rain, nearly the whole party started in the ‘Iolanthe’ for the head
-of Loch Scavaig. Scavaig itself is a very grand loch, partaking of
-the gloom of the mountains that surround it,—a gloom relieved only
-by the breakers on the rocky coast, and the glint of the wings of
-sea-birds. The landing, at all times difficult, was rendered more
-so by the slippery state of the rocks: but it was effected without
-serious mishap. After a rough walk of half a mile, over boulders and
-broken rocks, the south end of the dark lake was reached. No one had
-any reason to regret the toils or the risks of the expedition. Though
-the mists concealed the mountain tops, they intensified the darkness
-of the lake. The rain, which had been falling for some time in sport,
-now began to come down in earnest, and it quickly swelled the thousand
-streams that covered the hillsides. The silver streaks had become
-roaring cataracts. The loneliness of the scene was oppressive. The
-lines in which Scott has described the silent lake, whose name is a
-synonym for desolation, occurred to many. It is the Bruce that speaks:—
-
-    ‘Saint Mary! what a scene is here!
-    I’ve traversed many a mountain-strand,
-    Abroad, and in my native land,
-    And it has been my lot to tread
-    Where safety more than pleasure led;
-    Thus, many a waste I’ve wandered o’er,
-    Clombe many a crag, crossed many a moor;
-      But, by my halidome,
-    A scene so rude, so wild as this,
-    Yet so sublime in barrenness,
-    Never did my wandering footsteps press,
-      Where’er I happed to roam.’
-
-    No marvel thus the Monarch spake;
-      For rarely human eye has known
-    A scene so stern as that dread lake,
-      With its dark ledge of barren stone.
-    Seems that primeval earthquake’s sway
-    Hath rent a strange and shattered way
-      Through the rude bosom of the hill;
-    And that each naked precipice,
-    Sable ravine, and dark abyss,
-      Tells of the outrage still.
-    The wildest glen but this can show
-    Some touch of Nature’s genial glow;
-    On high Benmore green mosses grow,
-    And heath-bells bud in deep Glencroe,
-      And copse on Cruchan-Ben;
-    But here,—above, around, below,
-      On mountain or in glen,—
-    Nor tree, nor shrub, nor plant, nor flower,
-    Nor ought of vegetative power,
-      The weary eye may ken.
-    For all is rocks at random thrown,
-    Black waves, bare crags, and banks of stone,
-      As if were here denied
-    The summer sun, the spring’s sweet dew,
-    That clothe with many a varied hue
-      The bleakest mountain-side.
-
-    The evening mists, with ceaseless change,
-    Now clothed the mountains’ lofty range,
-      Now left their foreheads bare,
-    And round the skirts their mantle furled,
-    Or on the sable waters curled,
-    Or on the eddying breezes whirled,
-      Dispersed in middle air.
-    And oft, condensed, at once they lower,
-    When, brief and fierce, the mountain shower
-      Pours like a torrent down.
-
-[Illustration: _Mountains in Mist—Skye._]
-
-If the rain added to the picturesqueness of the scene, it did not add
-to the comfort of the visitors, most of whom returned to the ship
-drenched from head to foot. But their spirits were not damped, whatever
-their bodies were: for all were in the greatest good humour. Some
-one, probably a man, expressed the wish that the mist were away. Some
-one else, probably a woman, suggested that it would not be _missed_
-if it were away. Such ‘Coruiskations’ of wit were not inappropriate
-to the occasion, though they may have been to the scene. They helped
-at all events to keep up the spirits of the party. The refreshments
-distributed on the return to the ‘Dunottar Castle’ had a similar effect.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-  _Detached Rocks—Coast of Skye._]
-
-The anchor was then weighed, and we steamed round the west and north
-coasts of Skye, the ‘Iolanthe’ going in the opposite direction through
-the Sound of Sleat to Portree, where we were to meet, and to anchor for
-the night. The effects of the rain were seen in a tremendous increase
-in the waterfalls that precipitate themselves into the Sound of Soa
-from the steep sides of the mountains. The cataracts were indeed
-magnificent, and every one felt that the wild weather had not been
-without its compensations.
-
-To tell the truth, however, the scenery had to be taken very much for
-granted. One or two picturesque bits of rocky coast were all that
-could be seen. ‘M‘Leod’s Maidens’ were ‘children of the Mist.’ Dunvegan
-Castle was nowhere. Duntulm was invisible. The bold Quiraing, and
-the Old Man of Storr, and Prince Charlie’s Cave, were held as seen;
-and when we anchored in the evening in the Sound of Raasay, opposite
-Portree, we might have been anywhere.
-
-These untoward conditions, however, did not interfere with our
-enjoyment of the good things provided for us on board, or of the
-adjournment to the smoking-room at a later hour, when bad jokes and
-good stories were equally enjoyed, and when some wonderful card tricks
-were performed by our own Wizard of the North, who proved, however,
-mere potter’s clay in the cool hands of Captain Webster.
-
-[Illustration: _Near Strome Ferry._]
-
-
-
-
-VI
-
-WILD LOCH ALSH AND DARK LOCH DUICH
-
-
-[Illustration: _Outside of Portree Bay—Sunrise._]
-
-The morning of Thursday brought a welcome change. The day opened
-grandly, and the good weather which then set in blessed us during the
-remainder of the cruise. Those who rose early, of whom our Special
-Artist was one, were rewarded with a splendid view of the hills behind
-Portree, and of the bay and harbour. We started soon after breakfast
-in the ‘Iolanthe’ for Strome Ferry, where several members of the party
-were to leave us, and where others were to take their places, while all
-eagerly awaited letters and telegrams.
-
-[Illustration: _Scalpa Island—Skye._]
-
-[Illustration: _Whale blowing—off Skye._]
-
-The sail across the Inner Sound was extremely pleasant and
-exhilarating. Loch Sligachan slept in peace. Scuirna-gillean and Blaven
-still wore their nightcaps. The island of Scalpa was a blaze of rich
-colour, heightened by the white sails of a passing yacht. The Islands
-of Longa and Pabba were emeralds set in a blue sea. Broadford was a
-picture of self-contained repose. Off Pabba, two large whales—probably
-truants from the school, a thousand strong, lately reported from the
-Shetland seas—appeared ever and anon to plough the surface of the
-water, and one of our photographers succeeded in catching them (in her
-camera) in the very act of blowing clouds of spray into the air.
-
-[Illustration: _Loch Carron—from Strome Ferry._]
-
-[Illustration: _Head of Loch Carron—from Strome Ferry._]
-
-At the entrance to Loch Carron, the parallel beaches on opposite
-sides of the loch were mistaken by not a few on board for railway
-embankments. Like the parallel beaches of Glen Roy and the other
-valleys of Lochaber, they are obviously old moraines, but that does not
-make them less interesting; rather more so. Unfortunately, we reached
-Strome Ferry pier just in time to see the eleven o’clock train steam
-out of the station, and meander along the coast of the Loch. It was
-rather aggravating, no doubt; but everything comes to him who waits;
-and our disappointed friends, who wished to go southward, were able to
-enjoy a drive over the crest of the promontory to Balmacarra, and to
-return in time for the two o’clock train.
-
-[Illustration: _Misty Morning—Loch Carron._]
-
-[Illustration: _The Coolins—The ‘Dunottar Castle.’_]
-
-Loch Carron is a very beautiful sea. It cannot compare in grandeur
-or boldness with Loch Alsh or Loch Hourn. Its beauty is of a softer
-type, and a simpler character; but its charms are not less. The
-navigable entrance to it is narrow, owing to treacherous rocks; and
-the tide flows through the passage with tremendous force and speed.
-We pass on the one shore the ruins of Strome Castle, and on the other
-the handsome residence of Duncraig, and the fishing village of
-Plockton—a collection of weatherbeaten huts, but prettily situated on
-an outstanding promontory. As we emerge from the Loch, we have a very
-grand view of the Coolins, with the ‘Dunottar Castle’ lying under their
-shadow, and of the islands of Scalpa and Raasay—the latter crowned
-with a curious little table-mountain over which the Old Man of Storr is
-distinctly visible.
-
-[Illustration: _Kyle Akin._]
-
-Later in the day, and still on board the ‘Iolanthe,’ we steamed through
-the narrow passage of Kyle Akin (between Skye and the mainland) into
-Loch Alsh. The mouth of the loch is intersected by reefs and rocks,
-on the crest of one of which is the ruin of Castle Maoil. Near it,
-on the right hand, is the pretty village of Kyle Akin, built round a
-crescent-shaped bay with lovely sands. One would like to pause at such
-a charming spot, or to visit Balmacarra, peaceful and sweet-looking,
-or to inspect more closely the monument, not far off, erected by Sir
-Roderick Murchison to the memory of one of his ancestors who heroically
-collected the rents of the proscribed Earl of Seaforth after the ’45;
-but we have to content ourselves with distant views, in the meantime at
-least.
-
-[Illustration: _Castle Maoil—near Kyle Akin._]
-
-[Illustration: _In Loch Alsh—Skye in the distance._]
-
-The constant changes in the character of the scenery of Loch Alsh
-are perplexing. We think we have reached the head of the loch, when,
-suddenly, a new channel opens up in the apparently landlocked course.
-When King Haco of Norway found his way into this inland loch, as he did
-on his northward voyage after his defeat at Largs, he might very well
-have imagined himself to have been caught in one of his native fiords,
-so tortuous is the course and so difficult is the navigation.
-
-[Illustration: _Eilean Donan Castle—Loch Duich._]
-
-[Illustration: _Entrance to Loch Duich._]
-
-At the head of the loch, we approach the ruin of Eilean Donan Castle,
-which stands at the junction of three lochs—Loch Alsh, Loch Long,
-and Loch Duich. The castle, built on a detached island, must in olden
-times have been a place of strength; but the story goes that it was
-demolished by the guns of Cromwell. Passing the Castle on the left,
-we enter Loch Duich, which, though an arm of the sea, has all the
-appearance of a fresh-water lake, so smooth is its surface, and so soft
-and fertile are its banks. It attains its greatest beauty near the
-mansion-house of Inverinate and the village of Kintail, in the midst of
-rich woods on its northern shore. The prevailing green tints gleam out
-in the fitful sunshine with a richness and variety that are enchanting.
-At its head, the loch is closed in by a magnificent group of pyramidal
-mountains—Ben Attow, Scour Ouran, Ben Mhor, and the Saddle—all rising
-to a height of upwards of 3300 feet, and separated by well-defined and
-gloomy valleys.
-
-[Illustration: _Head of Loch Duich._]
-
-The return voyage in the evening was very fine. As we emerged from Loch
-Alsh and crossed Loch Carron, we had again a grand view of the Coolins,
-cloud-capped and solemn, and traversed by the axled rays of the setting
-sun. We steamed in the direction of Loch Kishorn, a northerly arm
-of Loch Carron, where the ‘Dunottar Castle’ awaited us, and where we
-anchored for the night.
-
-[Illustration: _The Coolins—from Loch Alsh._]
-
-That night was made memorable by several incidents. In the first place,
-the electric search-light was got into working order, and we astonished
-the natives of Courthill and other solitary houses by flashing the
-light of day in upon them at midnight. The ship’s pinnace and other
-small craft on the loch appeared like lime-light pictures thrown on
-a screen. The submarine electric tackle, which is used in cases of
-accident to the screw, or to the bottom of the vessel, was also got
-into play; and a very striking and novel effect it produced. A number
-of small fishes were attracted by the light, and swam about within the
-halo it formed. The scene recalled forcibly the stanza which Byron
-completed by adding the last two lines:—
-
-    “The sun’s perpendicular ray
-      Illumined the depths of the sea;
-    And the fishes, beginning to sweat,
-      Cried (something) how hot we shall be.”
-
-[Illustration: _The Piper._]
-
-[Illustration: SAMMY.]
-
-Most memorable of all, the Captain’s boy astonished every one by
-volunteering a hornpipe, while dancing was in progress on the
-promenade deck. Sir Donald summoned his piper to play the necessary
-accompaniment; but that did not suit Sammy’s steps. He required the
-whole orchestra of the ship’s band; and he gave them his instructions
-with the cool confidence of a professional performer. While he was in
-the very midst of his double-shuffle, Captain Webster appeared on the
-gangway, calling, ‘Sammy, you rascal, what are you doing there?’ Sir
-Donald, fancying for the moment that the Captain was in earnest, rushed
-forward to propitiate his wrath. It was as good as a play. If the scene
-had been preconcerted, it could not have been more effective. But Sam
-was not in the least perturbed. He continued his performance amid the
-applause of the whole company, until he was tired out. It afterwards
-transpired that the boy had been ‘on the boards’ before, probably in
-the part of the ‘Midshipmite’ in the Children’s ‘Pinafore.’
-
-[Illustration: _Head of Loch Kishorn._]
-
-
-
-
-VII
-
-ROUND CAPE WRATH
-
-
-[Illustration: _Rona Island—Lewis and Harris in the distance._]
-
-Friday, September 5th, was perhaps the most enjoyable day of the whole
-cruise. We started, in magnificent weather, with the intention of
-steaming up the west coast to Cape Wrath, and thence eastward along the
-north coast to Thurso. We steered up the Inner Sound, between Raasay
-and Rona on the one hand, and the rugged coast of Applecross on the
-other. We crossed Loch Torridon, at the head of which Ben Liugach rose
-in calm and majestic splendour. Opposite Gairloch, we had a fine view
-of Ben Slioch, which overlooks Loch Maree. Still finer, however, was
-the view backward, where the Coolins frowned even in the sunshine—the
-solemn pyramid of Blaven asserting itself in presence of loftier peaks.
-From this rugged background the rocky ridge extended northward by the
-Storr rocks and the Quiraing to the extremity of the island. Toward
-the west, the misty outline of Lewis and Harris broke, but scarcely
-broke, the regularity of the horizon.
-
-[Illustration: _Summer Sheen—in Skye Waters._]
-
-Then we crossed Loch Broom, with its Summer Isles, and the point of
-Rhu-Coigach, and Enard Bay, and Loch Inver, and we began to recognise
-the peculiar character of the Sutherlandshire mountains. They rise
-abruptly to a considerable height from wide intervening valleys, and
-they frequently assume the sugar-loaf shape. That is the case with
-Suilven, ‘the sugar-loaf’ _par excellence_, and also with Canisp, and
-Ben Stack, and Foinaven near Loch Laxford.
-
-[Illustration: _The Coolins—Blaven—Marsco._]
-
-The whole coast is rugged and forbidding. Close to the Point of Stoer
-is the Rhu-Stoer, a detached columnar rock resembling the Old Man of
-Hoy in Orkney. Several other stacks of similar formation were seen as
-we passed northward, conspicuously ‘The Shepherd’ between Loch Inchard
-and Cape Wrath. As we approached the latter, we felt once more the
-Atlantic swell, and the ship pitched and rolled somewhat, though she
-was as a rock in comparison with the smaller coasting steamers that ply
-habitually in these waters, two of which we saw labouring heavily; and
-some of us, at least, felt thankful that we were not as they.
-
-[Illustration: Cape Wrath
-
-—Lennox Browne]
-
-Cape Wrath, now seen by many of us for the first time, is really
-a splendid headland. The name in its modern interpretation may be
-appropriate enough, considering the wild seas that roar and bluster
-around it; but in point of fact it has no connection with the English
-word ‘wrath.’ It is a corruption of the Norse ‘Hvarf,’ which meant
-‘the turning-point of the land,’ and might have been more correctly
-Englished ‘Cape Warp.’ The lighthouse stands on a cliff 370 feet
-above the sea, beneath which there is a succession of jagged points,
-or needle-rocks, stretching seaward, perforated at their bases with
-several openings, through which the surf breaks and spends itself in
-spray. A more perilous point for shipping in a dark night it would
-be hard to conceive. As we passed the Cape, the cold, rainy squalls
-which had followed us for some time cleared off, leaving behind them,
-however, very striking effects of sea and sky.
-
-The north coast, east of Cape Wrath, partakes of the same rugged
-character as the promontory. There are castle rocks, and detached
-rocks, and dark ‘cletts,’ too numerous to mention. There are isolated
-mountains of considerable height about the dark Kyle of Durness, and
-Loch Erribol, and the Kyle of Tongue. The coast-scenery, however,
-becomes rapidly tamer. Ben Hope and Ben Loyal are the last prominent
-peaks that stand out from the undulating plain.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-  _Thurso—from the Bay._]
-
-Beyond Strathy Point, we reach the lowlands of Caithness. Green meadows
-and yellow corn-fields sloping down to the golden sands become common.
-Around Brims Ness and Holburn Head, the coast is as flat and level as
-the shores of Fife and the Lothians. Near Holburn Head, however, there
-is another huge detached rock, 200 feet high, called the Clett, around
-which the ocean surges and swells night and day in most weathers.
-Passing this rock at a safe distance, we entered Thurso Bay, and
-anchored securely in Scrabster Roads. The rain clouds cleared off
-toward evening, and revealed a beautiful sunset.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-  _The Old Man of Hoy._]
-
-At Thurso (which is Thor’s Town, another Norse landmark) we were in
-touch once more with the British railway and postal systems. The
-most prominent object on the mainland was the castle lately rebuilt
-by Sir J. G. Tollemache Sinclair—a cold-looking mansion, rendered
-more forbidding by the absence of trees. The town itself looked very
-picturesque, with its spires and chimneys breaking the coast-line,
-while the fields of golden grain that surrounded it bespoke fertility
-and prosperity. Other noteworthy features of the neighbourhood were
-Harold’s Tower, the Bishop’s Castle, and the bold bluffs of Dunnet
-Head, the most northerly point of the mainland. The northward view
-included the Orkney Islands, and Hoy Head, with the Old Man of Hoy at
-its base, which, at a later hour, and in the ‘witching time of night,’
-stood out grandly in the moonlight.
-
-                ‘The Old Man of Hoy
-                Looks out on the sea,
-    Where the tide runs strong, and the wave rides free:
-          He looks on the broad Atlantic sea,
-                And the Old Man of Hoy
-                Hath this great joy,
-    To hear the deep roar of the wide blue ocean,
-    And to stand unmoved ’mid the sleepless motion,
-                And to feel o’er his head
-                The white foam spread
-          From the wild wave proudly swelling,
-                And to care no whit
-                For the storm’s rude fit,
-          Where he stands on his old rock-dwelling.’
-
-                             —PROFESSOR BLACKIE.
-
-
-
-
-VIII
-
-A RAID ON ORKNEY
-
-
-[Illustration: _Copinsay Island—Orkney._]
-
-During the night we were rocked in the cradle of the deep, even at
-our anchorage, by the north-west wind, which blew strongly; and at
-an early hour in the morning, the anchor was weighed, and we steamed
-steadily through the Pentland Firth, generally a tempestuous passage,
-and then northward past the rugged islet of Copinsay, with its myriads
-of sea-birds, into Shapinsay Sound. Balfour Castle, on the island of
-Shapinsay, was the most prominent object in the landscape. One is apt
-to wonder how the massive building came there, so inconsistent is
-its pretentious appearance with its bare and cheerless surroundings.
-By-and-by we anchored in Kirkwall Roads, and every one, as quickly as
-possible, was transferred to land in the ‘Iolanthe,’ and the steam
-launch, or the attendant gigs.
-
-Kirkwall is not a very stirring or lively place, but it has an
-old-world flavour, which makes a visit to it pleasant and memorable.
-Its narrow and tortuous streets, paved with flags, its old-fashioned
-houses, many of them with secluded courts, and presenting their gables
-to the sea, and most of all its ancient Cathedral, invest it with a
-peculiar interest.
-
-[Illustration: _Kirkwall—from the Bay._]
-
-The Cathedral forms, of course, its chief attraction. This building,
-which is the most conspicuous object in the town, as seen either from
-the sea or from the land, dates from the twelfth century, having
-been founded by Jarl Rognvald in 1137, in memory of his uncle, St.
-Magnus. Its style is chiefly Norman, but it contains many features of
-the Pointed Gothic or Early English style, which makes it extremely
-interesting to the antiquary and the architect, resembling in that
-respect the famous Cathedral of Trondhjem, which belongs to the same
-period. Outwardly, it is wonderfully well preserved. Though really a
-very small building of its kind—a cathedral in miniature,—its parts
-are so well proportioned that it has almost an imposing appearance.
-Worthy of special notice are the great east window, which Sir Henry
-Dryden believed to be unique; the circular window in the south
-transept; and the carving of the west door, which Dryden refers to as
-probably the finest example in the British Islands of the effective
-combination of particoloured stones. But the delicate floral work in
-the arch of the doorway is now much weather-worn, and the fine pillars
-are wasted to skeletons. The tower, to which we mounted, commands a
-splendid view of the town and bay and the surrounding islands.
-
-[Illustration: _The Earl’s Palace—Kirkwall._]
-
-From the Cathedral we passed to the Bishop’s Palace, part of which is
-probably as old as the Cathedral itself, though the greater part is
-known to have been built in the sixteenth century by Bishop Reid, who
-made additions to the Cathedral also. In the older part of this palace
-King Haco died on his return from Largs, and his remains lay for a time
-within the Cathedral.
-
-Still more interesting are the remains of the Earl’s Palace, which
-stands to the east of the last-named building. It was erected by the
-notorious Earl Patrick Stewart—“Black Pate”—about 1590. He was the
-son of Lord Robert Stewart (a natural son of James V.), Earl of Orkney.
-Black Pate also built Scalloway Castle in Shetland; and in the erection
-of both he levied contributions from his vassals and retainers without
-stint, requiring them not only to furnish the materials in stone, lime
-and eggs, with which the mortar was mixed, but also to work like slaves
-under his command: hence his by-name, “The Scourge of the Islands.”
-By-and-by his notorious deeds became known in Edinburgh, and he was
-captured, and ended his career on the gallows.
-
-[Illustration:
-
- _The Earl’s Palace—Kirkwall._]
-
-He must, however, have been a man of fine taste and grand notions, if
-we are to judge by the architectural features of his palace. It is
-really a fine specimen of the Scottish baronial style, many of the
-details of ornament—in round turrets, quaint gables, and projecting
-windows—being beautiful, especially as seen through the grove of
-sycamore-trees which surrounds the building. A remarkable feature is a
-level arch over one of the great fireplaces in the banqueting hall, on
-either side of which the initials “P.E.O.” (Patrick, Earl of Orkney)
-may still be seen. This is one of the best examples of the straight
-arch in Scotland.
-
-The day being exceedingly fine, a large contingent enjoyed a drive
-along the Stromness road to Maeshowe and the Stones of Brogar and
-Stenness.
-
-Maeshowe is an unique chambered mound, and is one of the most
-interesting of the many interesting antiquities of Orkney. The mound
-is 36 feet high and 300 feet in circumference. The central chamber (15
-feet square) is built of solid blocks of stone. The roof is of bee-hive
-shape, and in the walls there are on three sides deep cells or shelves
-5 or 6 feet long. It is reached by a long and narrow passage, and as
-the whole is underground, it has to be explored by candle-light. The
-position and the dimensions of the cells suggest a place of burial,
-such as the early Britons used; but the numerous inscriptions on the
-walls are Runic and Norse. There has therefore been a great deal of
-discussion as to the purpose of the building; but the general belief
-now is that it was originally a Pictish sepulchre, and that it was
-broken into by the Norsemen after the ninth century, and was used by
-them as a place of refuge, and for the concealment of treasure.
-
-A mile and a half farther on are the two celebrated stone circles,
-called respectively the Ring of Brogar and the Ring of Stenness. The
-latter is the smaller, though it has given its name to the whole.
-According to our own Antiquary, who accompanied the party, that circle
-was 104 feet in diameter, and consisted originally of twelve stones, of
-which only two are standing. The Ring of Brogar, according to the same
-authority, was 340 feet in diameter, and comprised sixty stones, of
-which thirteen are standing, while ten others, though they have fallen,
-are still entire. We were assured that these are the finest stone
-circles in Scotland, far surpassing in extent the Stones of Callernish
-in Lewis, and comparing favourably with the more famous remains of
-Stonehenge. As to the purpose of these circles, we were left to solve
-the mystery for ourselves, being warned, however, that their connection
-with Druidical worship is now discredited.
-
-One of the most famous of these monoliths was the Stone of Odin in
-the Stenness circle, now no longer erect. It was perforated by a
-hole, about five feet from the ground, and was regarded with the
-utmost veneration, being used (as the readers of Scott’s _Pirate_ will
-remember) as the place where lovers plighted their troth by clasping
-hands through the aperture. The stones in the case of both circles are
-of the Old Red Sandstone formation.
-
-[Illustration:
-
-  WEST DOORWAY
-  KIRKWALL
-  CATHEDRAL]
-
-
-
-
-IX
-
-OUR SHIP’S NAME-MOTHER
-
-
-The whole party returned to the ‘Dunottar Castle’ about five o’clock,
-and soon afterwards the anchor was weighed and we started on our
-homeward voyage. The wind, which had been blowing fresh from the
-north-west all day, fell away toward sunset, and during the night—the
-only night spent in sailing—we had a wonderfully quiet passage.
-
-About five o’clock in the morning, those who were fortunate enough to
-occupy berths on the port side of the ship saw a magnificent sunrise.
-The sky was clear overhead, but there was a dense bank of clouds on
-the eastern horizon. Presently, in the midst of the dark mass, a
-ruddy longitudinal streak appeared. Then the streak was doubled and
-multiplied. The upper air glowed with opalescent tints. The clouds
-melted away, and the ruddy orb of the sun appeared on the verge of the
-ocean. The sea around us, and for miles away, was calm as a mirror, and
-reflected the gradations of light and the fiery hues of the eastern
-sky. It was an enchanting scene, such as could be witnessed only once
-or twice in a lifetime.
-
-We passed Aberdeen about six o’clock, but at too great a distance to
-obtain a definite view. About breakfast-time we were off Stonehaven,
-which threw back from its windows the rays of the morning sun. It
-was a glorious day. Not a cloud darkened the sky, not a ripple broke
-the surface of the sea except in the track of the ship. Presently we
-were abreast of the ruins of Dunottar Castle, perched on its rocky
-pedestal—the veritable name-mother of our ship. The breakfast-bell
-was ringing (a welcome sound in ordinary circumstances), but every one
-was loath to leave the deck. The order was therefore given to lie-to
-until that necessary rite had been performed. Then we returned to the
-deck with satisfied spirits, and gazed for half an hour or more on the
-beautiful scene. Artists, photographers, and scribes were soon busily
-at work, all eager to catch the fleeting beauty.
-
-[Illustration: _Dunottar Castle._]
-
-The detached, or semi-detached, rock on which the ruins of the Castle
-stand is about two miles south of Stonehaven. It is 160 feet high,
-and a deep chasm separates it, all but completely, from the mainland,
-which at this point is wild and precipitous. The neighbourhood,
-indeed, is a continuous series of cliffs, which are frequented by
-numerous sea-birds: hence the popular name given to the coast, of the
-‘Fowlesheugh.’
-
-Here again the resources of our own Antiquary were called into
-requisition, and he assured us, with the unblushing confidence of an
-expert, that the name of the Castle meant in Gaelic ‘the fort of the
-low promontory.’ It is easy to believe that the rock was the site of a
-castle from very early times, a siege of ‘Dunfoither’ (as it was then
-called) by a king of the Picts in the seventh century being on record
-(681 A.D.).[1] The Castle the ruins of which remain is of course of
-much later date, though its buildings belong to different ages. It
-appears, from evident signs, to have covered the greater part of the
-surface of the rock, which is 4½ acres in extent.
-
-[1] See Sir Donald Currie’s _Book of Garth and Fortingall_, page 83.
-
-Its position resembles very closely that of Tantallon Castle in the
-Firth of Forth, and before the days of artillery it must have been
-almost impregnable. Nevertheless, Blind Harry describes a capture of
-Dunottar by William Wallace, when four thousand Englishmen were burned
-in the Castle. It was re-fortified by Edward III. in 1336; but these
-incidents relate to an older castle than that of which the remains
-survive.
-
-The present Castle, as far as can be ascertained, was begun by Sir
-William Keith, the ‘Great Marischal of Scotland,’ towards the close of
-the fourteenth century, and the lands and castle remained in the hands
-of the Keith family till the Rebellion of 1715, when the owner threw
-in his lot with the Pretender, and forfeited his estates. One of the
-mottoes of the family was couched in the quaint and defiant words,
-
-    ‘They haif said:
-    Quhat say they:
-    Lat thame say!’
-
-When the ship received the name of the Castle, these words also were
-adopted as its motto.
-
-[Illustration: _Dunottar Castle in olden time—from an old print._]
-
-Dunottar was besieged by the gallant Marquis of Montrose during
-the great Rebellion, the Earl Marischal of that time having been
-a Covenanter (1645). Montrose offered him fair terms if he would
-capitulate, but the Covenanting clergymen who had taken refuge within
-the Castle overruled him, as their kind overruled David Leslie at
-Dunbar; and he was not allowed to surrender. Thereupon the Marquis
-subjected the surrounding property to military execution, to the great
-dismay of the Earl, when he saw flames and smoke rising from his
-houses, and notwithstanding the assurance of Andrew Cant (ominous name)
-‘that the reek would be a sweet-smelling incense in the nostrils of the
-Lord.’ Evacuation followed as a matter of course.
-
-When Charles II. visited Scotland in 1650, he was entertained in
-Dunottar Castle by the seventh Earl Marischal. In the following year,
-when the English Parliamentary army overran Scotland, the Scottish
-Estates deposited the Regalia in Dunottar Castle, then deemed the
-strongest place in the kingdom, and George Ogilvy of Barras was
-appointed Lieutenant-Governor. It was besieged by Cromwell’s army, and
-Ogilvy held out until famine rendered his troops mutinous, whereupon he
-surrendered. Before he did so, however, the Regalia had been cleverly
-removed by Mrs. Granger, the wife of the minister of Kinneff—a village
-on the coast, four miles farther south. Having obtained the permission
-of the English commandant to visit her friend Mrs. Ogilvy, the
-Lieutenant-Governor’s wife, Mrs. Granger, carried with her, on leaving
-the Castle, a bundle of clothes, in which the Crown was imbedded, and
-also a huge distaff covered with lint, which was in fact formed of the
-Sceptre and the Sword of State.
-
-The same night, the precious treasures were buried by the minister
-himself under the flags of his church at Kinneff; and there they
-remained till after the Restoration of 1660, when they were unearthed,
-and were presented to Charles II. by the same George Ogilvy who had
-formerly been Commander of the Castle. Ogilvy’s only reward was the
-title of Baronet, and a new coat of arms. The minister and his wife
-received no reward—not even thanks. Sir John Keith, the brother of the
-Earl Marischal, was made Earl of Kintore in 1677, and was the ancestor
-of the present Earl, who is the tenth to hold the dignity.
-
-After its surrender to Cromwell, the Castle was partially dismantled
-and reduced to ruins. What remained of it was, like the Bass Rock,
-used as a State prison for the Covenanters during the persecutions
-under Charles II. and the Duke of York. One hundred and sixty-seven
-men and women were imprisoned at one time in its ‘Whig’s Vault,’ or
-Black Hole, and nine of them speedily died of suffocation. Driven to
-despair, some twenty-five of them one night crept out of a window and
-along the face of the cliff, in the hope of effecting their escape. Two
-of these daring men fell over the rock and were killed. The others were
-captured, and were subjected to terrible cruelties.
-
-A few years after the forfeiture already referred to, the Castle was
-sold, and was completely dismantled. It was subsequently repurchased by
-the Keith family; and it passed finally into the hands of Sir Alexander
-Keith, Writer, Edinburgh, whose grandson, Sir Patrick Keith Murray of
-Ochtertyre, sold it in 1875 to Mr. Innes of Cowie, near Stonehaven.
-
-Having studied the Castle and its surroundings long enough to deepen
-our impressions of it, we got up steam again, and went on our way past
-Bervie, with its outstanding Craig-David; past Montrose, stretched
-over a level site; past Arbroath, with its tall chimneys, its spires,
-and its ancient Abbey,—all seen in the dim distance, and reposing
-peacefully in the Sabbath calm.
-
-[Illustration: _Montrose—from the Sea._]
-
-
-
-
-X
-
-A DAY OF REST
-
-
-At the morning service, which was held as usual in the saloon, Dr.
-Cameron of Cape Town preached an eloquent and suggestive sermon from
-Luke xiii. 29, ‘They shall come from the east, and from the west, and
-from the north, and from the south, and shall sit down in the kingdom
-of God.’ The words, he thought, were not inappropriate to the occasion;
-for the company was gathered from many parts of this country, and some
-of its members from distant lands. It might be said, indeed, that we
-had come from the east, and from the west, from the north, and from
-the south. After pointing out that the words were Christ’s real answer
-to the question, ‘Are there few that be saved?’ and showing that His
-restrictions applied to those who sought to enter the kingdom of God in
-other ways than by the strait gate, the preacher continued:—
-
- ‘My text gives us the vision of a great commonwealth or society,
- into which all worthy elements of human character are gathered up—a
- kingdom of God which is at the same time a kingdom of man. And they
- form a great multitude which no man can number, because fresh crowds
- are ever gathering into it. “The nations of them that are saved shall
- walk in the light of it.”
-
-‘“They shall come from the East”—the land of immemorial traditions and
-gorgeous imaginations, of Oriental splendour and barbaric gold: the
-cradle of civilisation, and philosophy, and religion: where, a thousand
-years before Christ, mystics dreamed of a blessedness which could be
-reached only by those who mortified the flesh, and contemplated the
-unseen glories of the spiritual world;—the East, with its patient
-millions who have borne without complaint the yoke of a cruel bondage:
-with its frankincense and myrrh, once laid in homage at the cradle of a
-little child: with its jewelled temples raised in honour of gods many
-and lords many, and its holy plains,
-
-    “Over whose acres walked those blessed feet
-    Which, eighteen hundred years ago, were nailed,
-    For our advantage, to the bitter cross.”
-
-‘None of that splendour shall be lost: it shall receive a new
-consecration. That devotion shall find its true object: those dusky
-brows shall be decked by the hand of Him who hath made us kings and
-priests unto God. “They shall come from the east,” and sit down with
-prophets and patriarchs in the kingdom of God.
-
-‘“They shall come from the West.” The kingdom of God is no palace of
-luxury, no paradise of passive repose, where kings sit in solemn state,
-and mystics dream away their days in fruitless visions. It is the
-commonwealth of those banded together to do the work of the Lord, and
-there must be place in it for the practical vigour and the restless
-energy of the Western mind. The subtle Greek, who sent the arrows of
-his thought quivering into the heart of Europe: the practical Roman,
-fulfilling his great part in the commission to replenish and subdue the
-earth: the nations of modern Europe, with their culture, and power,
-and ambitions: the great Republic of the West, where the banner of
-religious freedom was unfurled, and great problems in politics and
-religion are being worked out—not one of these can be spared from
-the final association of men in the kingdom of God. Each has its
-contribution to bring. We are debtors to the Greek and the barbarian,
-to the wise and the unwise: and they in their turn are debtors to the
-great world of which they form a part, and are to bring their glory and
-honour, their worth and their wisdom, into the Community of the Saved.
-
-‘“They shall come from the North.” They came from the north in mighty
-hordes—those fierce barbarians who swept down upon the tottering
-Roman Empire, and crushed out what remained to it of life. Province
-after province was invaded by these terrible men, the fairest tracts
-of Southern Europe were occupied by them, and are still held by their
-descendants. They shall come again, Christ says, from the north: not
-for destruction, but for help and blessing: not to ravage the provinces
-of a decaying earthly empire, but to swell the population and to add
-to the wealth of the city of God: from the far north, the land of the
-midnight sun, and the noonday darkness, into the city of which the Lord
-is the everlasting light, and whose sun shall no more go down for ever.
-
-‘“They shall come from the South”: where palm-trees cast their grateful
-shadows on the earth, and temples lift their stately heads to heaven.
-We read and speak of the luxury and ease of the South, where life is
-free from care, and its burdens rest very lightly on men whose hearts
-are bright and gay. But there is a place even for something of this
-kind in the final home. There must be rest and peace, as well as toil
-and energy: enjoyment, as well as action. So the men of the South come
-trooping in at the call of Christ, even as the Queen of the South once
-came to hear the wisdom of Solomon. From the banks of the river of
-Egypt, with its mighty pyramids and mystic learning: from the central
-plains and southern shores of the dark continent of Africa, which shall
-one day be light in the Lord: from the new world of the Southern Seas
-with their multitude of islands, and from that greater Britain which is
-throbbing with the vigorous life of what they love to call the Mother
-Country—from each and all of these they shall come, a goodly host,
-each under its own standard, but high over all the blood-red banner of
-the Captain of our Salvation. They shall come, a great multitude which
-no man can number, “from the east, and from the west, from the north,
-and from the south”: and this is the processional hymn to the music of
-which they march through the gates into the city—
-
-    “Unto Him that loved us, and washed
-      us from our sins in His own blood,
-    And hath made us kings and
-      priests unto God and His Father;
-    To Him be glory and dominion
-      for ever and ever. Amen.”’
-
-[Illustration: _Entrance to Loch Torridon._]
-
-
-
-
-XI
-
-HOMEWARD BOUND
-
-
-When we returned to the deck we found ourselves within sight of the
-Bell Rock, off the Firth of Tay, and the old stories were retold of the
-fate of Ralph the Rover, and of the trials and hair-breadth ’scapes
-of Robert Stevenson and the heroes who helped him to build the famous
-lighthouse, and to carry out in an enduring form the humane intentions
-of
-
-  “The pious Abbot of Aberbrothock.”
-
-[Illustration: _The Bell Rock Lighthouse._]
-
-A heavy haze now began to gather on the shore. No trace of St.
-Andrews could be seen. The East Neuk of Fife, with King’s Barns on
-the one side and Crail on the other, was only dimly visible. Steaming
-close to the Isle of May, we saw very plainly its lighthouses, its
-store-houses, and its ruined chapel of St. Adrian. We were reminded,
-in view of recent events, that this island is nearly of the same size
-as Heligoland; and one wonders that it has not been turned to as good
-account as the latter. Late in the evening we entered the Firth of
-Forth by the passage between Tantallon Castle and the Bass Rock, in
-order to obtain a view of these famous fortresses.
-
-[Illustration: _May Island._]
-
-[Illustration: _Tantallon Castle._]
-
-Tantallon Castle, like Dunottar, stands on a detached rock, and is
-accessible from the mainland only at one point. It is famous in the
-history of Scottish wars, and especially in that of the house of
-Douglas. Every one is familiar with Scott’s graphic description of it,
-and of the parting scene of Marmion and Douglas at its gate:—
-
-    ‘On the Earl’s cheek the flush of rage
-    O’ercame the ashen hue of age:
-    Fierce he broke forth,—“And darest thou then
-    To beard the lion in his den,
-        The Douglas in his hall?
-    And hopest thou hence unscathed to go?—
-    No, by Saint Bride of Bothwell, no!—
-    Up drawbridge, grooms!—what, warder, ho!
-        Let the portcullis fall.”—
-
-    Lord Marmion turned—well was his need—
-    And dashed the rowels in his steed,
-    Like arrow through the archway sprung;
-    The ponderous gate behind him rung:
-    To pass there was such scanty room,
-    The bars, descending, razed his plume.’
-
-The buildings and the surrounding walls cover the entire surface of
-the rock. Its strength in olden times was proverbial, and led to the
-saying—
-
-    ‘Ding doon Tantallon,
-    Mak’ a brig to the Bass,’
-
-the one achievement being deemed about as easy as the other. The ruins
-as seen from the sea do not present any picturesque features, but
-they give the impression of a place of great size, and practically
-impregnable.
-
-The Bass Rock (313 feet high) is the counterpart in the Firth of Forth
-of Ailsa Craig in the Firth of Clyde; and it is remarkable that these
-two rocks are the only ones in Scotland that are frequented by the
-gannet, or solan goose. The Bass presents a very bold outline, from
-whatever point it may be seen. Its summit slopes from north to south,
-and it is surrounded on all sides by steep cliffs, rising sheer out of
-the sea. The only possible landing-place is on a shelf of rock on the
-south side, above which are the ruins of a fortress, which stretched
-across the island from east to west.
-
-[Illustration: _The Bass Rock._]
-
-This fortress, as has been mentioned, was used as a State prison in
-the times of Charles II. and his brother James VII. Many Covenanters
-were immured there, including stout old John Blackadder, who died on
-the island after a long imprisonment. The Bass was the last stronghold
-in Britain that held out for James VII., and after its surrender its
-castle was demolished.
-
-As we passed close to the rock the steam-whistle was sounded, and
-at once great numbers of solan geese rushed forth like a living
-whirlwind, darting and wheeling in the air, and filling it with
-their hoarse cries. The noise had scarce died away when we passed
-North Berwick—sentinelled by its Law, and guarded by its outposts,
-Craigleith and Fidra. The haze grew denser and denser as we sailed up
-the Firth of Forth, so much so that it was thought advisable to go at
-half-speed. Inchkeith was not visible until we were within less than
-a mile of it. One consequence of the changed atmospheric conditions
-was that a projected visit to the Forth Bridge had to be postponed;
-another was, that we failed to obtain the view of Edinburgh from the
-sea, which is considered one of the finest.
-
-Above Inchkeith, we were met by a tug from the shore, which brought out
-some of the representatives of the Leith house (James Currie and Co.)
-and other friends. The tug marshalled us the way to our anchorage; and
-about six o’clock we dropped anchor in Leith Roads, not without regret
-that the act signalised the practical termination of our delightful
-cruise.
-
-After dinner that evening, Sir Arthur Blackwood and Lord Provost Muir
-expressed to Sir Donald Currie, in the name of the guests, their hearty
-thanks for his splendid hospitality, and for the pleasure which the
-trip had afforded them in many ways. Captain Webster, his officers and
-men, were not forgotten in this thanksgiving service; and well they
-deserved this recognition, for what was a pleasure-trip to the guests
-involved no little hard work for them. Indeed the Captain declared that
-his anxieties had turned his hair white, but he added that the many
-kind things said of him had restored its natural colour—a kind of
-capillary blush after the blanching of care.
-
-[Illustration: _Inchkeith._]
-
-
-
-
-XII
-
-IN THE FIRTH OF FORTH
-
-
-Next morning the mist had risen sufficiently to show dimly, but
-yet with a certain poetic mystery, the beauties of the unrivalled
-position of ‘the grey Metropolis of the North’ within her cincture
-of hills—Salisbury Crags and Arthur’s Seat, Blackford Hill and the
-Braids, Corstorphine Hill and the wooded heights of Dalmeny and
-Hopetoun. In the midst, there was a dreamy indication of the city, with
-its masses of buildings following the contours of the undulating site,
-and relieved by outstanding spires, monuments, and tall chimneys—the
-whole culminating in the Castle Rock, which stood out like an aerial
-island from a sea of haze.
-
-[Illustration: From Leith Roads]
-
-In the forenoon, a delightful trip was made in the ‘Iolanthe’ up to
-and under the Forth Bridge; and those who made it were rewarded with
-a splendid view of that wonderful structure. As every one knows, the
-view of the Bridge from the sea is the finest that can be obtained. You
-see it as a whole. You take in at a glance all its details. You see
-each of the cantilevers separately, as well as the connecting girders.
-You see the width of the great spans and the height of the ‘fair-way’;
-and you understand why such vast superstructures were necessary in
-order to secure the stability of the intermediate railway line. All
-this is missed by one who crosses the Bridge in a railway carriage,
-unless, as occurred once in the experience of the writer, the western
-sun casts a perfect shadow of the Bridge on the placid bosom of the
-Firth below.
-
-In the course of the day, several thousands of the inhabitants of
-Edinburgh and Leith visited the ‘Dunottar Castle,’ on the general
-invitation of the Castle Company, and in steamers provided for their
-accommodation. The extent to which the privilege was taken advantage of
-showed how highly it was appreciated.
-
-In response to special invitations, the Corporations of Edinburgh and
-Leith, the Merchant Company, the Chambers of Commerce, and other public
-bodies, paid a visit to the ship about noon, and were entertained to
-luncheon, to the number of 150, Sir Donald Currie presiding. The manner
-in which the extempore function was carried through showed that the
-resources of the ship, without extraneous aid, were quite equal to such
-an emergency. It is needless to do more than refer to the eloquent
-speeches in which the beauty of the ship and the enterprise of its
-owners were acknowledged.
-
-Then, at length, the harmonious party, which for ten days had been at
-home in the great ship, was scattered promiscuously to the East and
-the West, the North and the South, to resume old ties of love and
-friendship, but not to forget the new ties that had been formed.
-
-In the evening of the same day, the great ship left her moorings and
-sailed for London, there to take her appointed place in the Cape and
-Natal Mail Service; and no vessel ever entered on her career with more
-cordial good wishes from troops of friends than
-
- ‘THE DUNOTTAR CASTLE.’
-
-[Illustration: _The Tug in Leith Roads._]
-
-
-
-
-_EPILOGUE_
-
-
-_History, in these days, is made more rapidly than it is written.
-Before these sheets have left the Press, there comes the news that ‘The
-Dunottar Castle’ has ‘beaten the record’ on her first Cape voyage in
-both directions._
-
-_She made the outward passage in 16 days, 11 hours, 54 minutes, and
-completed the homeward run to Plymouth in 16 days, 6 hours, net
-steaming time. The fastest passages previously recorded were made by
-‘The Roslin Castle’: outward in 17 days, 10 hours, 15 minutes, and
-homeward in 16 days, 16 hours, 35 minutes. ‘The Dunottar Castle’ has
-thus shortened the passage between England and the Cape by nearly a
-whole day._
-
-  W. S. D.
-
-
-
-
-EDINBURGH UNIVERSITY PRESS
-
-[Illustration]
-
-  T. AND A. CONSTABLE
-  _Printers to Her Majesty_
-
-  MDCCCXC
-
-*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CRUISE OF THE ROYAL MAIL
-STEAMER DUNOTTAR CASTLE ROUND SCOTLAND ON HER TRIAL TRIP ***
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-<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Cruise of the Royal Mail Steamer Dunottar Castle Round Scotland on Her Trial Trip, by W. Scott Dalgleish</p>
-<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online
-at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you
-are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the
-country where you are located before using this eBook.
-</div>
-
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: The Cruise of the Royal Mail Steamer Dunottar Castle Round Scotland on Her Trial Trip</p>
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: W. Scott Dalgleish</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: April 26, 2022 [eBook #67928]</p>
-<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p>
-  <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Fay Dunn, Fiona Holmes and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)</p>
-<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CRUISE OF THE ROYAL MAIL STEAMER DUNOTTAR CASTLE ROUND SCOTLAND ON HER TRIAL TRIP ***</div>
-
-
-
-
-<div class="transnote">
-<h2>Transcriber’s Notes</h2>
-
-<p>Hyphenation has been standardised.</p>
-
-<p>In the Illustration list the page number 32 was missing and
-  has been included.</p>
-
-<p>On <a href="#Page_v" title="">Page v</a>, the word Cathedra has been changed to Cathedral (drawings of the
-  Cathedral and the Earl’s Palace at Kirkwall).</p>
-</div>
-
-
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_cover"><img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="" width="764" height="1000" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<p class="space-above4"></p>
-
-<p class="center"><i>With Sir Donald Currie’s Compliments.</i></p>
-
-<p class="space-above4"></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_title"><img src="images/i_title.jpg" alt="" width="534" height="800" /></a>
-</div>
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<p class="space-above4"></p>
-
-<div class="title-page">
-<p class="center">    THE CRUISE OF</p>
-
-<p class="center p80">    THE ROYAL MAIL STEAMER</p>
-
-<p class="center">    Dunottar Castle</p>
-
-<p class="center">    ROUND SCOTLAND ON HER TRIAL TRIP</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_003"><img src="images/i_003.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="196" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Dunottar Castle</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p class="space-above4"></p>
-
-<p class="center p60">EDINBURGH<br />
-   Printed by T. and A. <span class="smcap">Constable</span><br />
-   Printers to Her Majesty</p>
-
-<p class="center">    1890</p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h1 class="nobreak" id="CRUISE_OF_THE_DUNOTTAR_CASTLE">CRUISE OF THE ‘DUNOTTAR CASTLE’</h1>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_v"></a>[v]</span></p><h2 class="nobreak" id="FOREWORD">FOREWORD</h2>
-</div>
-
-
-<div>
-  <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_005.jpg" width="90" height="97" alt="T"/>
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">The</span> first suggestion of this Record of
-a very charming trip came from <span class="smcap">Sir
-Donald Currie</span>, the genial and courteous
-Host of our palatial ‘House
-Boat.’ Others pressed the task upon
-me; but no great pressure was required for so congenial
-a work. Indeed, I need hardly say that the preparation
-of the story of our Cruise has given me infinite pleasure.</p>
-
-<p>My efforts have been ably seconded by the artistic skill
-of my fellow-guests, Dr. <span class="smcap">Lennox Browne</span> of London, and
-Miss <span class="smcap">Cecilia G. Blackwood</span>, whose facile pencils have contributed
-to the work many clever and beautiful illustrations.
-I am indebted to Mr. <span class="smcap">T. Maclaren</span> for the architectural
-drawings of the Cathedral and the Earl’s Palace at Kirkwall;
-while a few of the pictures are taken from photographs
-by Miss <span class="smcap">Munn</span>, another of our gifted passengers.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_vi"></a>[vi]</span>
-The whole have been reproduced with great skill by the
-various engravers, with the assistance, and under the
-supervision, of Mr. <span class="smcap">John Gulich</span>, who has also contributed
-a few original drawings.</p>
-
-<p>It is perhaps fitting that I should offer an apology to
-the good folks on board the ‘Dunottar Castle,’ who may
-not have been prepared for this realisation of the words of
-the poet:&mdash;</p>
-
-<div class="poetry-container">
-<div class="poetry">
-  <div class="stanza">
-    <div class="verse">‘A chiel’s amang ye takin’ notes,</div>
-    <div class="verse">And, faith, he’ll prent it.’</div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-</div>
-
-
-<p class="right">W. SCOTT DALGLEISH.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p><span class="smcap">Edinburgh</span>, <em>October 1890</em>.</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_frontis"><img src="images/i_frontis.jpg" alt="sailing ship" width="450" height="385" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_vii"></a>[vii]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</h2>
-
-<table class="toc" summary="Contents">
-<tr>
-<td> </td>
-<td> </td>
-<td class="tdr"><small>PAGE</small></td>
-</tr><tr>
-  <td class="chn">I.</td>
-  <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Concerning the Good Ship</span>,</td>
-  <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_17">17</a></td>
-</tr><tr>
-  <td class="chn">II.</td>
-  <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">In the Firth of Clyde</span>,</td>
-  <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td>
-</tr><tr>
-  <td class="chn">III.</td>
-  <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Among the Southern Hebrides</span>,</td>
-  <td class="right"><a href="#Page_30">30</a></td>
-</tr><tr>
-  <td class="chn">IV.</td>
-  <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">In the Sound of Mull</span>,</td>
-  <td class="right"><a href="#Page_35">35</a></td>
-</tr><tr>
-  <td class="chn">V.</td>
-  <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Round about Skye</span>,</td>
-  <td class="right"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td>
-</tr><tr>
-  <td class="chn">VI.</td>
-  <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Wild Loch Alsh and Dark Loch Duich</span>,</td>
-  <td class="right"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td>
-</tr><tr>
-  <td class="chn">VII.</td>
-  <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Round Cape Wrath</span>,</td>
-  <td class="right"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></td>
-</tr><tr>
-  <td class="chn">VIII.</td>
-  <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">A Raid on Orkney</span>,</td>
-  <td class="right"><a href="#Page_70">70</a></td>
-</tr><tr>
-  <td class="chn">IX.</td>
-  <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Our Ship’s Name-Mother</span>,</td>
-  <td class="right"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td>
-</tr><tr>
-  <td class="chn">X.</td>
-  <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">A Day of Rest</span>,</td>
-  <td class="right"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td>
-</tr><tr>
-  <td class="chn">XI.</td>
-  <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Homeward Bound</span>,</td>
-  <td class="right"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td>
-</tr><tr>
-  <td class="chn">XII.</td>
-  <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">In the Firth of Forth</span>,</td>
-  <td class="right"><a href="#Page_92">92</a></td>
-</tr><tr>
-<th></th>
-<td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Epilogue</span>,</td>
-<td class="right"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-</div>
-
-
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_viii"></a>[viii]</span></p>
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="ILLUSTRATIONS">ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_ix"></a>[ix]</span></p>
-<table class="toi" summary="Illustrations">
-  <tr>
-    <th></th>
-    <th>ARTIST</th>
-    <th></th>
-    <th>ENGRAVER</th>
-  </tr><tr>
-   <td>R.M.S. ‘Dunottar Castle’</td>
-   <td> </td>
-   <td> </td>
-   <td> </td>
-   <td class="pag"><a href="#image_frontis"><em>Frontispiece</em>.</a></td>
-   </tr><tr>
-    <td>Dunottar Castle from the Shore</td>
-    <td><em>John Blair</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>C. Hentschel</em></td>
-    <td class="pag1"><em>Vignette Title</em>.</td>
-  </tr><tr>
-   <td> </td>
-   <td> </td>
-   <td> </td>
-   <td> </td>
-    <td class="pag"><small>PAGE</small></td>
-</tr><tr>
-    <td>The Music Saloon</td>
-    <td><em>John Gulich</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>John Swain</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>A Corner of the Ladies’ Boudoir</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td  class="pag"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>The Smoking-room</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>The Main-Deck</td>
-    <td><em>M. Munn</em> (<em>Photo.</em>)</td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>The Ship on the Stocks at Fairfield</td>
-    <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Arran&mdash;from the Firth of Clyde</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Lamlash Bay and Holy Isle</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>John Swain</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_28">28</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Scarba and the Isles&mdash;from Mull</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#image_031">31</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Loch Buy Head&mdash;from Carsaig</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#image_031a">31</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Outside of Kerrera&mdash;Ben Cruachan
-    in the distance</td>
-    <td><em>Cecelia G. Blackwood</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Dunolly Castle, Oban</td>
-    <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>John Swain</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>The ‘Iolanthe’ off Oban&mdash;Rainy Weather</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Oban and the Bay</td>
-    <td>(<em>From Photograph</em>)</td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Oban Pier</td>
-    <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>The Mull Hills&mdash;from Kerrera</td>
-    <td><em>C. G. Blackwood</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_35">35</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Lismore Lighthouse</td>
-    <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>John Swain</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Castle Duart, Mull</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Calve Island, Tobermory</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>John Swain</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#image_038">38</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Ardnamurchan Point</td>
-   <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_39">39</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Loch Sunart</td>
-   <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_40">40</a></td>
-<td><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_x"></a>[x]</span></p></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>The Narrows&mdash;Loch Sunart</td>
-    <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>John Swain</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_40">40</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Mist Rainbow on Ardnamurchan&mdash;off
-        Tobermory Lighthouse</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Glengorm, Mull</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>The Trishnish Islands</td>
-   <td class="cht1"> <i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td> <em>John Swain</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_42">42</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Distant View of Staffa</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-   <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>The Pilot and a Tobermory Lassie</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Ardtornish Castle</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-   <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>The ‘Iolanthe’ off Eigg and Rum</td>
-   <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Loch Scavaig</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-   <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td> Mountains in Mist&mdash;Skye</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Detached Rocks&mdash;Coast of Skye</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td> Near Strome Ferry</td>
-    <td><em>C. G. Blackwood</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td> <em>Hare and Co.</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_51">51</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Outside of Portree Bay&mdash;Sunrise</td>
-    <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>John Swain</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Scalpa Island, Skye</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Whale blowing&mdash;off Skye</td>
-    <td><em>M. Munn (Photo.)</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Loch Carron&mdash;from Strome
-        Ferry</td>
-    <td> <em>Lennox Browne</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_54">54</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Head of Loch Carron&mdash;from
-        Strome Ferry </td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_54">54</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td> Misty Morning&mdash;Loch Carron</td>
-    <td><em>C. G. Blackwood</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_55">55</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>The Coolins&mdash;the ‘Dunottar Castle’</td>
-    <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>John Swain</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_55">55</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Kyle Akin</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_56">56</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Castle Maoil&mdash;near Kyle Akin</td>
-   <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>John Swain</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_57">57</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>In Loch Alsh&mdash;Skye in the Distance</td>
-    <td><em>C. G. Blackwood</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_57">57</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td> Eilean Donan Castle, Loch Duich</td>
-    <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Entrance to Loch Duich</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Head of Loch Duich</td>
-   <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td> <em>Hare and Co.</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>The Coolins&mdash;from Loch Alsh</td>
-   <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_60">60</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Sammy and the Piper</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>John Swain</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_61">61</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Head of Loch Kishorn</td>
-    <td><em>C. G. Blackwood</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_62">62</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-  <td><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xi"></a>[xi]</span></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Rona Island&mdash;Lewis and Harris
-    in the distance</td>
-    <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>John Swain</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Summer Sheen&mdash;in Skye Waters</td>
-    <td><em>M. Munn</em> (<em>Photo.</em>)</td>
-    <td></td>
-   <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>The Coolins&mdash;Blaven&mdash;Marsco</td>
-    <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Cape Wrath</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>John Swain</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_66">66</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Thurso&mdash;from the Bay</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td> The Old Man of Hoy</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>John Swain</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_68">68</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Copinsay Island, Orkney</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_70">70</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td> Kirkwall&mdash;from the Bay</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>John Swain</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_71">71</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>The Earl’s Palace, Kirkwall</td>
-    <td><em>T. Maclaren</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td> Gable of the Earl’s Palace, Kirkwall</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_73">73</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>West Door, Kirkwall Cathedral</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Dunottar Castle&mdash;from a Port-hole</td>
-    <td><em>Lennox Browne</em></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_77">77</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Dunottar Castle in the Olden Time</td>
-    <td>(<cite>From an old Print</cite>)</td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht2">. . .</td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Montrose&mdash;from the Sea</td>
-    <td><cite>Lennox Browne</cite></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><cite>John Swain</cite></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_82">82</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Entrance to Loch Torridon</td>
-    <td><cite>C. G. Blackwood</cite></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><cite>Hare and Co.</cite></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_86">86</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>The Bell Rock Lighthouse </td>
-    <td><cite>Lennox Browne</cite></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><cite>John Swain</cite></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>May Island</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-   <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_88">88</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Tantallon Castle </td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-   <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_88">88</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>The Bass Rock</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_90">90</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Inchkeith</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-   <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_91">91</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>Edinburgh&mdash;from Leith Roads</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>Hare and Co.</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_92">92</a></td>
-  </tr><tr>
-    <td>The Tug in Leith Roads</td>
-    <td class="cht1"><i>do.</i></td>
-    <td></td>
-    <td><em>John Swain</em></td>
-    <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td>
-  </tr>
-</table>
-</div>
-
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_011"><img src="images/i_011.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="192" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">From Leith Roads</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<p class="space-above4"></p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xii"></a>[xii]</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_012"><img src="images/i_012.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="596" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Dunottar Castle from the Shore</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xiii"></a>[xiii]</span></p>
-
-<h2>THE LOG</h2>
-
-
-<p>1890.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p><em>August 30. Saturday.</em>&mdash;Sailed from Greenock, down the Firth of
-Clyde, and round Arran. Anchored in Lamlash Bay.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p><em>31. Sunday.</em>&mdash;Sailed round Mull of Cantire, and through the
-Sound of Islay. Met the ‘Iolanthe.’ Anchored off
-north point of Kerrera.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p><em>Sept. 1. Monday.</em>&mdash;Lay at anchor all day. Visited Oban.</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p><em>2. Tuesday.</em>&mdash;Sailed up Sound of Mull. Visited Ardnamurchan,
-Loch Sunart, and Trishnish Islands in ‘Iolanthe.’
-Anchored at Tobermory.</p>
-
-<p><em>3. Wednesday.</em>&mdash;Sailed between Eigg and Rum to Loch
-Scavaig. Visited Loch Coruisk. Sailed round Skye.
-Anchored off Portree.</p>
-
-<p><em>4. Thursday.</em>&mdash;Visited Strome Ferry, Loch Alsh, and Loch
-Duich in ‘Iolanthe.’ Anchored in Loch Kishorn.</p>
-
-<p><em>5. Friday.</em>&mdash;Sailed up west coast, round Cape Wrath, and
-along north coast. Anchored in Scrabster Roads,
-Thurso.</p>
-
-<p><em>6. Saturday.</em>&mdash;Sailed through Pentland Firth, to Kirkwall
-in the Orkneys. Anchored in Kirkwall Bay.
-Visited Kirkwall Cathedral, the Maeshowe, and the
-Stones of Brogar and Stenness. Started at 6 <span class="allsmcap">P.M.</span>
-and sailed southward.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xiv"></a>[xiv]</span></p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p><em>7. Sunday.</em>&mdash;Sailed past Aberdeen, Stonehaven, Dunottar
-Castle, Montrose, the Bass Rock, etc. Anchored at
-Leith.</p>
-
-<p><em>8. Monday.</em>&mdash;Visited the Forth Bridge in the ‘Iolanthe.’
-Ship visited by Corporations of Edinburgh and Leith,
-and by the public. Guests debarked. Ship sailed for
-London in the evening.</p>
-  </div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_014"><img src="images/i_014.jpg" alt="" width="187" height="300" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xv"></a>[xv]</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xvi"></a>[xvi]</span></p>
-<p class="center p120">CRUISE OF THE ‘DUNOTTAR CASTLE’</p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17"></a>[17]</span></p>
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="I">I</h2>
-</div>
-
-<p class="center">CONCERNING THE GOOD SHIP</p>
-
-
-<div>
-  <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_017.jpg" width="90" height="97" alt="T"/>
-</div>
-
-<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">The</span> ‘Dunottar Castle’ is the twenty-first ship built for the
-‘Castle’ Company, and is the largest, and in all respects the most
-perfect, of all the vessels engaged in the South African Royal Mail
-Service. This fine vessel was built by the Fairfield Shipbuilding and
-Engineering Company of Govan, Glasgow, under the direction of Mr. Saxon
-White, the Manager of that Company, and the supervision of Mr. John
-List and Mr. George Scott of the ‘Castle’ Line. The fact that the ship
-was ordered from the Fairfield Company without competing contracts
-being invited from other firms, is a proof of the confidence which Sir
-Donald Currie had in the builders.</p>
-
-<p>This is especially noteworthy when the dimensions and the capacity
-of the ship are remembered. She exceeds the largest of her sister
-ships, the ‘Roslin Castle’ by 1000 tons, the gross tonnage of the
-‘Dunottar Castle’ being nearly 5500 tons, and her net tonnage 3069.
-Her length is 435 feet; the extreme breadth is 50 feet; and she is
-36 feet<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18"></a>[18]</span> deep.
-The hull is constructed entirely of steel, with a continuous double
-cellular bottom, and with eight vertical bulk-heads, which extend to
-the upper deck, and divide the ship into nine water-tight compartments.
-The engines are of the triple-expansion type, the cylinders being
-respectively 38 inches, 61½ inches, and 100 inches in diameter, with
-a stroke of 5 feet 6 inches. Between 6000 and 7000 horse-power can be
-developed. Steam is supplied at a pressure of 160 lbs. to the square
-inch, by four large steam boilers and a supplementary boiler, each with
-six corrugated furnaces.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_018"><img src="images/i_018.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="587" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">The Music Saloon</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The steamer has accommodation for 360 passengers&mdash;170
-first class, 100 second class, and 100 third class; but the last
-class is capable of being increased by 150 at least. The <span
-class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19"></a>[19]</span> crew consists of 150
-officers and men, commanded by Captain Webster, the senior Captain of
-the ‘Castle’ Company. Each of the dining saloons accommodates at one
-time the whole complement of passengers assigned to it,&mdash;a point
-of no small importance, as the trouble and worry of double meals are
-thereby avoided. The ship is admirably equipped in every particular,
-and the furnishings are of the most elegant character. The first-class
-dining saloon is a very handsome apartment, with panelled walls and
-dado, and is furnished throughout with refined taste. Abaft of this
-saloon, there is a supplementary saloon for children and nurses.
-Forming a spacious gallery above the dining saloon is the music-room,
-which is beautifully decorated in white and gold, and exquisitely
-furnished in old-gold upholstery. Adjoining this, and separated from it
-by a handsome screen of bevelled glass, is the ladies’ boudoir, which
-is also most luxuriously furnished.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_019"><img src="images/i_019.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="518" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">A corner of the Ladies’ Boudoir</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20"></a>[20]</span></p>
-
-<p>A notable feature of this part of the ship is the spacious double
-staircase, leading from the saloon to the main and upper decks. Like
-the saloon itself, it is handsomely decorated with solid panels,
-and every detail is conceived and executed in good taste. Abaft the
-main deck state-rooms, there is a handsome and very comfortable
-smoking-room, with bar attached, which is much superior to the
-ordinary smoking-rooms of ocean-going steamers, in respect both of
-size and of furnishings. Behind the staircase on the upper deck is
-the reading-room, which contains writing-tables, book-shelves, and
-lounges.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_020"><img src="images/i_020.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="560" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">The Smoking room</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>This may be the proper place to mention that the
-ship’s library, of nearly five hundred volumes, is exceedingly<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21"></a>[21]</span>
-attractive and well selected. It contains many standard
-works in history, travels, and fiction, including some of the
-most recent publications. It also contains valuable books
-of reference, in the shape of atlases and gazetteers, and a
-representative selection of music, including Scottish, English,
-and Irish songs and glees. The man or the woman would
-be very difficult to please who could not find within the ship
-itself, with its pianos, organ, and library, ample resources
-for spending pleasantly and profitably three or four weeks
-at sea.</p>
-
-<p>The promenade deck is exceptionally spacious, and affords ample
-room for those recreations with which time is wont to be beguiled
-in tropical seas. The first-class state-rooms are fitted up in a
-very handsome, luxurious style, with iron spring-beds, sofas, and
-lavatories, all constructed on the most approved principles.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_021"><img src="images/i_021.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="570" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>The Main-Deck.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The intermediate sleeping-berths differ but little, in point
-of comfort and convenience, from those assigned to first-class
-passengers; and the dining-saloon, which has its own
-piano and organ, is infinitely superior to what we were
-accustomed to in old-fashioned steamers. The third-class<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22"></a>[22]</span>
-accommodation is altogether superior to that provided in
-the general run of ocean-going steamers.</p>
-
-<p>The sanitary arrangements include some special features,
-one of which is an improved system of ventilation with compressed
-air. Marble baths, and all the most approved
-lavatory appliances, are provided in sumptuous fashion. A
-novel luxury in the ‘Castle’ liners is a barber’s shop, with a
-rotatory hair-brushing machine worked by an electric motor.
-Indeed, scarcely anything is lacking which could be desired
-by the most fastidious traveller on shore.</p>
-
-<p>One of the greatest charms of the ship is the electric
-lighting, which is carried out on a perfect scale. Nothing
-has done so much as the introduction of the electric light
-to make ocean-travelling comfortable and safe. It is
-bright and cleanly, and it is always available. It is an
-immense advantage to be able to turn on a bright light
-in your state-room at any moment. The evening hours
-in the saloon, instead of being dreary, are looked forward
-to with pleasure, and are thoroughly enjoyed. In point
-of fact, the saloon is quite as brilliant at night as during
-the day.</p>
-
-<p>The decks also are brightly lighted up at night with
-electric cluster lights, as well as with single lamps, so that
-dancing and other recreations can be carried on with the
-greatest comfort. The ship’s band of ten or twelve instruments
-is also an excellent institution, which does much to
-relieve the tedium of the voyage.</p>
-
-<p>The rapidity with which the ‘Dunottar Castle’ was
-got into working order speaks well for the resources and
-the organising power of the Clyde shipbuilders. When the
-ship was launched at Govan, on May 22d, she was a mere<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23"></a>[23]</span>
-hulk&mdash;a huge steel case intersected with a few floors and
-partitions. When the trial trip took place on August 28th,
-exactly fourteen weeks later, she was completely finished,
-furnished, and manned, and was ready in every particular to
-undertake a long voyage. Those who saw her at the Tail
-of the Bank, off Greenock, at the latter date, had some
-difficulty in believing that she was the same vessel. Everything
-was in its place, down to the minutest curtain-ring
-and the smallest carpet-tack; and every man was at his
-post, from the Captain to the cabin-boy.</p>
-
-<p>The behaviour of the ship on the trial trip was admirable,
-and left nothing to be desired. The day was splendid,
-and everything went well. The ship attained a speed of
-17½ knots on the measured mile, off Skelmorlie, and both
-builders and owners were satisfied with the results, as they
-had good reason to be.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_023"><img src="images/i_023.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="408" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>The Ship on the Stocks&mdash;May 22, 1890.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24"></a>[24]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="II">II</h2>
-</div>
-
-<p class="center">IN THE FIRTH OF CLYDE</p>
-
-
-<div>
-  <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_024.jpg" width="90" height="97" alt=""/>
-</div>
-<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">The</span> trial cruise will not soon be forgotten by those who were
-privileged to take part in it. The trip was worthy of the great ship,
-and worthy of the famous ‘Castle’ Line. The strangers and foreigners,
-the Englishmen and the colonists, who were of the party, had an
-opportunity of seeing all that is grandest in Scottish coast-scenery,
-such as is enjoyed by few natives; and every Scotsman on board must
-have felt proud of his country.</p>
-
-<p>The course taken was the converse of that of Agricola,
-when his galleys sailed round Scotland, and proved for the
-first time that Britain was an island. While the Romans
-sailed, or rather rowed in open galleys, from the Firth of
-Forth to the Firth of Clyde, the ‘Dunottar Castle’ pleasure-party
-steamed from the Clyde to the Forth in a veritable
-floating palace, replete with the comforts of advanced civilisation,
-and embodying the most recent developments of
-science in the applications of steam and of electricity. The
-contrast is almost too great to be appreciated even by the
-most imaginative modern mind. It is difficult to realise
-what the feelings of James Watt, or of Henry Bell, would<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25"></a>[25]</span>
-be were they permitted to see to what perfection the
-results of their inventive genius have been brought by
-their successors.</p>
-
-<p>Perhaps few of those who entered on the expedition
-realised the useful purposes which it served. They thought
-only of the pleasant holiday provided for them; but in
-truth it answered a more practical and more important end.
-It was, in fact, a preliminary trial, in which the crew and
-all the officers, including the stewards, were put through
-their facings, and in which the commissariat and other
-resources of the management were subjected to a pretty
-severe test. The whole routine of the daily life was precisely
-similar to that which will prevail in the regular
-voyages of the ship from London to the Cape, and it is
-but just to say that the results were entirely satisfactory.</p>
-
-<p>The ‘Dunottar Castle’ presented a splendid appearance
-as she rode at anchor at the Tail of the Bank, off
-Greenock, on Saturday, August 30th, awaiting the arrival of
-the invited guests of Sir Donald Currie. Being light of
-draught, she lay high in the water, and made everything
-else in the neighbourhood, even an American liner, look small
-in comparison, while her beautiful lines were seen to the
-greatest advantage. On board, everything was ship-shape
-and in good order; and when Sir Donald Currie, on his
-arrival from Garth, was received on the main deck about
-noon, by Captain Webster and his officers, it might have
-been supposed that the steamer had been in commission
-for years, and was undergoing an inspection on her return
-from one of her ocean voyages.</p>
-
-<p>The view from the upper deck was magnificent. Few
-scenes in the British Isles can compare in beauty and variety<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26"></a>[26]</span>
-with the estuary of the Clyde opposite Greenock. We
-stood in the centre of a wide cyclorama, nearly every point
-in which glowed in brilliant sunshine. Greenock alone was
-dark and murky, as is its wont. Even Gourock gleamed in
-colour, as it caught the sun’s rays emerging from the mists.
-Dumbarton Castle loomed large in the warm haze to the
-eastward. Helensburgh basked peacefully on its wooded
-slopes. Kilcreggan and Cove smiled in their leafy bowers,
-while beyond them Ben Lomond raised on high its massive
-head. Westward, the rugged ridge of the Arrochar Hills
-and Argyll’s Bowling Green filled up the distance. Then
-the line of view descended again at Strone Point, and the
-placid Holy Loch, and the bright villas of Hunter’s Quay,
-and so the circuit was complete.</p>
-
-<p>When the last tug-load of passengers and luggage had
-been received on board, the anchor was weighed, and the
-majestic ship steamed down the Firth past the Cloch lighthouse,
-past Castle Wemyss, and Wemyss Bay, and Skelmorlie,
-on the one side, and past Dunoon and Inellan on
-the other. Off the Greater Cumbrae we lay-to, in order
-to receive on board Lord Provost Muir of Glasgow, who,
-with his brother Commissioners of the Clyde Trust, had
-been engaged in an inspection of the lighthouses on these
-coasts. Their little steamer drew up alongside, and the
-Commissioners were courteously received on board and
-were shown over the ship. The Commissioners, <em>minus</em> the
-Lord Provost, were dismissed with a cheer, and we proceeded
-on our way.</p>
-
-<p>Passing Rothesay Bay and Mount Stuart House, one of the
-Marquis of Bute’s residences, we enter a wider sea, and get
-a fine view of Goatfell and the rugged peaks of Arran which<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27"></a>[27]</span>
-surround Glen Sannox. Opposite that weird glen, of evil
-omen, we turn northward, and steam past the Fallen Rocks,
-and round the north point of Arran into Kilbrannan Sound,
-our purpose being to sail round Arran and to anchor for
-the night in Lamlash Bay. We have a pleasant glimpse,
-in passing, of Loch Ranza and its rugged keep, and of the
-valleys and ‘cols’ that lead over to Glen Sannox and Glen
-Rosa. The west coast of Arran, however, is distinctly
-tame, and gives few tokens of cultivation and industry, until
-we approach the south end of the island. There are, indeed,
-more signs of an active population on the peninsula of
-Cantire, on our right. Arran, however, can boast of historical,
-or at least of traditional, interest, for the King’s
-Cave, near Blackwaterfoot, is said to have been the first
-resting-place of Robert the Bruce on his landing from
-Rathlin Island.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_027"><img src="images/i_027.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="261" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Arran&mdash;from the Firth of Clyde.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>As we steam southward, that island and the Irish coast
-are clearly visible beyond the Mull of Cantire. Looking
-back from this point, the picturesque outline of the mountains
-in the north of Arran stands out boldly against the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28"></a>[28]</span>
-northern sky, while southward we see Ailsa Craig and
-its pale grey rocks, with their myriads of gannets. By-and-by,
-in the gloamin’, we pass Whiting Bay, in which at least
-half a hundred small boats are busily engaged in deep-sea
-fishing. Then we steam cautiously between Holy Island
-and King’s Cross Point (another landmark of the Bruce)
-into Lamlash Bay, where we drop anchor, and prepare to
-dine in peace.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_028"><img src="images/i_028.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="301" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Lamlash Bay and Holy Isle.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>We then begin to realise the importance of the fact
-that our cruise is to be one of pleasure, as well as of practical
-use, in a sense not previously thought of. We are
-to steam ahead during daylight, and our nights are to be
-spent peacefully at anchor in quiet waters. The arrangement
-is not only comfortable on that account, but is also
-convenient, inasmuch as we shall miss very little of the
-coast-scenery&mdash;none of it, indeed, if we are careful to rise
-betimes.</p>
-
-<p>As we lay at our anchorage, we had an opportunity of
-realising what the electric light has done for navigation, not<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29"></a>[29]</span>
-merely in the brilliant lighting of our own ship, but in that
-of several of the Clyde steamers. When the ‘Duchess of
-Hamilton,’ a coasting steamer, passed through the bay with
-her lights gleaming, she might have been a floating firework
-displayed for our special gratification.</p>
-
-<p>Calmly and peacefully the night was passed. Some
-spent an hour pleasantly in the Music Saloon, under the
-spell of music and song. Others found more congenial
-occupation in the Smoking-room. Not a few lingered on
-deck till a late hour, bewitched by the galaxy of stars, or
-watching the glimmering lights of the Lamlash cottages,
-as, one by one, they succumbed to the demands of repose,
-and bade us a silent ‘good-night.’ One or two adventurous
-rowing boats came out at a late hour to inspect the monster
-of the deep that had suddenly disturbed the quiet of the
-bay; but the plash of their oars soon died away, and our
-little world was left in a silence that was felt.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_029"><img src="images/i_029.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="236" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Ailsa Craig.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30"></a>[30]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="III">III</h2>
-</div>
-
-<p class="center">AMONG THE SOUTHERN HEBRIDES</p>
-
-
-<div>
-  <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_030.jpg" width="90" height="87" alt=""/>
-</div>
-<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">If</span> the denizens of Lamlash were looking forward to obtaining a
-good view of the ‘Dunottar Castle’ next day (Sunday), they must have
-been grievously disappointed, for we made an early start, and were
-out of the bay before the majority of them were out of their beds. By
-seven o’clock, we had rounded the Mull of Cantire, and were beginning
-to feel the swell of the Atlantic. The morning was clear and crisp,
-and both sea and sky seemed joyous in the sunshine. Nearly every one
-was on deck for an hour before breakfast, and the sharp air was most
-exhilarating.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_031"><img src="images/i_031.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="452" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Scarba and the Isles&mdash;from Mull.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_031a"><img src="images/i_031a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="343" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Loch Buy Head&mdash;from Carsaig, Mull.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The Irish coast remained in sight for several hours; but still more
-attractive was the view of the west coast of Cantire. Machrihanish
-Bay awakened pleasant memories in the golfers on board. They had been
-there, and still would go; and very tempting the bay looked with its
-gleaming sands and sparkling wavelets. Our course now lay through the
-Sound of Islay, which runs between that island and its sister Jura.
-Long before we reached the Sound, we were once more in quiet water
-under the lee of Islay, and with the well-marked Paps of Jura right
-ahead. In the Sound, the sea was absolutely still, and there we had
-morning service,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31"></a>[31]</span>
-reverently conducted by Captain Webster, Sir Donald Currie reading
-the lessons. Shortly afterwards we met, by appointment, our host’s
-large steam yacht, the ‘Iolanthe,’<span class="pagenum"><a
-id="Page_32"></a>[32]</span> which attended us during the remainder
-of our cruise, and added greatly to our enjoyment by taking us into
-narrow and shallow lochs and sounds into which the great ship could
-not have ventured. Mr. James Currie, of Leith, with his family, was
-on board, and did all in his power to render our voyage an agreeable
-one. The interest of the sail increased as we passed northward between
-Jura and Colonsay. The weather was superb. The Sabbath calm seemed to
-have settled down on hill and sea. It was a day for lounging on deck,
-and for gazing at the summer sky, or on the Islands of the Blest which
-surrounded us.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_032"><img src="images/i_032.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="370" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Outside of Kerrera&mdash;Ben Cruachan in the distance.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>We were prepared for a toss at the Strait of Corrievreckan;
-but though the boiling of the tide was perceptible
-to the eye, it was unappreciable by any other sense, at
-least to those in the massive ‘Dunottar Castle.’ As we
-crossed the Firth of Lorne, the mountains of Argyllshire
-came into full view, Ben Cruachan and Ben More of Mull
-being specially conspicuous. Off Scarba, we made a wide
-detour westward in the direction of the Ross of Mull, so
-that we might see its cliffs and caves and the shores of
-dark Loch Buy.</p>
-
-<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33"></a>[33]</span>
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_033"><img src="images/i_033.jpg" alt="" width="508" height="550" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Dunolly Castle, Oban.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Toward evening, we reached our anchorage at the northern point of
-Kerrera, but outside of Oban Bay, which is crowded at this season with
-yachts and other small craft. We were opposite to David Hutchison’s
-monument, set up near the scene of his labours, to remind travellers of
-the great things which he did for them, and for Scotland, in opening up
-the Western Highlands to swift steamer traffic. We had also a distant
-view of Dunolly Castle, the ancestral home of the Macdougalls. Evening
-service was conducted by Sir Arthur Blackwood, Secretary of the General
-Post-Office, London; and the earnestness and freshness of his address
-were highly appreciated.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_033a"><img src="images/i_033a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="418" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>The ‘Iolanthe’ off Oban&mdash;Rainy Weather.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The weather changed in the night, and we awoke to find ourselves
-enveloped in mist and in drizzling rain. A projected trip up Loch
-Linnhe to Ballachulish was consequently abandoned; and we spent the
-whole day at our anchorage, awaiting the arrival of expected guests
-at Oban, who were brought off in the ‘Iolanthe,’ and thence in the
-steam<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34"></a>[34]</span> launch.
-Those of us who were so inclined had thus an opportunity of seeing the
-capital of the Western Highlands, though not under the most favourable
-conditions; of visiting its attractive shops, and of admiring, though
-at a safe distance, its numerous or innumerable hotels. When it rains
-on this coast it does so with a vengeance. In fine weather Oban is one
-of the most beautiful places in Scotland; on a wet day it is one of the
-most disagreeable under heaven.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_034"><img src="images/i_034.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="231" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>View of Oban and Bay.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p class="space-above2"></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_034a"><img src="images/i_034a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="493" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Oban Pier.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35"></a>[35]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="IV">IV</h2>
-</div>
-
-<p class="center">IN THE SOUND OF MULL</p>
-
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_035a"><img src="images/i_035a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="424" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>The Mull Hills&mdash;from Kerrera.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<div>
-  <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_035.jpg" width="90" height="89" alt=""/>
-</div>
-<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">Next</span> morning (Tuesday) finds us in the Sound of Mull, one of the
-most beautiful and romantic of Highland seas. The lighthouse full
-astern stands on the point of the island of Lismore, anciently the seat
-of the Bishops of Argyll, and still more famous as the home of its
-Dean, James Macgregor, who, in the sixteenth century, made a valuable
-collection of poems in Gaelic and English, well known as the ‘Book of
-the Dean of Lismore.’ The picturesque ruin at<span class="pagenum"><a
-id="Page_36"></a>[36]</span> the entrance to the Sound, on the eastmost
-point of Mull, is Duart Castle, the home of the Macleans. Not far off
-is the ‘Lady Rock,’ which disappears at high-water, and on which one
-of the Macleans once left his wife, intending that she should perish
-when the tide rose and covered the rock. She was Ellen of Lorne, a
-sister of the Earl of Argyll. One of her brothers rescued her, and
-afterwards slew Maclean. Such stories are common in these regions:
-they cling, like the ivy, to every ruined tower. These traditions of
-lawlessness and vengeance formed the greater part of the education of
-the people.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_036"><img src="images/i_036.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="427" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Lismore Lighthouse.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>By and by we pass on the right Ardtornish Castle, a
-stronghold of the Lords of the Isles, and memorable as the
-site of the opening of Scott’s poem:&mdash;</p>
-
-<div class="poetry-container">
-<div class="poetry">
-  <div class="stanza">
-    <div class="verse indent0">‘Thy rugged halls, Ardtornish! rung,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">And the dark seas, thy towers that lave,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Heaved on the beach a softer wave,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">As ’mid the tuneful choir to keep</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">The diapason of the Deep.</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Lulled were the winds on Inninmore,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">And green Loch Aline’s woodland shore,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">As if wild woods and waves had pleasure</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">In listing to the lovely measure.’</div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-</div>
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37"></a>[37]</span></p>
-<p>The ruins of Ardtornish are near the entrance to
-Loch Aline, and under the shadow of the massive and bare
-hills of Morven. These hills had a never-ending charm for
-Dr. Norman M‘Leod, whose native village of Morven lies
-on the east coast of the Sound, nearly opposite Tobermory.
-The Sound to-day is in one of its angry moods: clouds
-obscure the sun; mists cling to the mountains, and the
-sullen sky is reflected in the fretful sea.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_037"><img src="images/i_037.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="418" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Castle Duart&mdash;Mull.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Presently we pass on the left the ruins of Aros Castle, another of
-those rock-built fortresses which are so numerous on these coasts. The
-stupendous mountain-wall which appears to close up the Sound at the
-north end is the rocky peninsula of Ardnamurchan, the most westerly
-point on the British mainland. At its base stands yet another ruined
-castle, that of Mingarry, also a stronghold of the Lords of the Isles,
-and woven with warp of treachery and woof of heroism into their
-adventurous story.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_038"><img src="images/i_038.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="372" /></a>
-<p class="caption center">Calve Isl<sup>d</sup>. Tobermory</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Passing Tobermory Bay, to which we shall return by-and-by,
-we sail beyond Ardnamurchan Point, and have a distant
-view of the Scuir of Eigg and the graceful outline
-of the mountains of Rum. The mists lift somewhat,
-and give us a view of the north coast of Mull,
-<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38"></a>[38]<br /><a id="Page_39"></a>[39]</span>and of the bold beetling headland of Ardnamurchan,
-with its tall lighthouse thrust out into the sea. Then
-we return to Tobermory, the quaint and primitive capital
-of Mull, and anchor in its lovely Bay.</p>
-
-<p>The village, which, like a few other places in the Highlands,
-looks best at a distance, skirts two sides of the Bay.
-The western banks are steep and richly wooded. On the
-east, the Bay is cut off from the sea by the small island of
-Calve, which forms a natural breakwater, thus producing
-a spacious and very safe anchorage. Aros House, imbedded
-in woods, stands on the south side of the Bay, and near
-it there is a very fine waterfall on the stream which
-emerges from the Mishnish Lochs&mdash;a favourite resort of
-anglers. From the deck, a lovely view of the Sound of
-Mull is seen over the crest of Calve. The hills in the
-distance are dark, but the east shores of the Sound are
-lighted up with gleams of sunshine, developing marvellous
-combinations of colour.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_039"><img src="images/i_039.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="460" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Ardnamurchan Point.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40"></a>[40]</span></p>
-
-<p>The day being still young, the ‘Iolanthe’ is brought into
-requisition, and a delightful trip is made up Loch Sunart, a veritable
-fiord in its windings, and its narrowness, and its flanking mountains.
-As we enter the Loch, we catch one of those occasional and transient
-effects which delight artists, but which it is hazardous to paint, and
-still more difficult to reproduce without colour. A brilliant rainbow
-rests one of its extremities on the massive hill of Ardnamurchan, and
-practically cuts it in two; one half of it being melted away under the
-changing colours of the arch.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_040"><img src="images/i_040.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="429" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Loch Sunart.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p class="space-above2"></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_040a"><img src="images/i_040a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="395" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>The Narrows&mdash;Loch Sunart.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>It was during this trip that some members of the party developed
-extraordinary skill in the game of deck quoits, while others indulged
-in athletic sports of various kinds, terminating in a ‘tug-of-war’ in
-which nearly every man and boy on board took part. It was alleged,
-however, with<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41"></a>[41]</span>
-what truth I know not, that a majority of those on the winning side
-wore deck shoes with india-rubber soles. Nevertheless, they maintained
-stoutly that ‘it was weight that told.’ The sail up Loch Sunart was
-very enjoyable. A fair breeze was blowing, and the sun, which had been
-concealed before, burst through the clouds, and shed beauty on the
-landscape.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_041"><img src="images/i_041.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="368" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Mist Rainbow on Ardnamurchan&mdash;off
-Tobermory Lighthouse.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p class="space-above2"></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_041a"><img src="images/i_041a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="397" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Glengorm&mdash;Mull.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>In the afternoon we embarked on the ‘Iolanthe’ again, and sailed
-round the north coast of Mull in fairly good weather, past Ardmore
-Point, past Glengorm Castle (the property of Mr. James Cowan), past
-Caliach Point, and Calgary Castle with its marvellous silver strand,
-and past<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_42"></a>[42]</span>
-Trishnish Point, in the direction of the Trishnish Islands. A farmhouse
-near Caliach Point has an interest for literary men. Thomas Campbell
-the poet spent five months there as tutor when a young man; and there
-he first conceived the theme of <em>The Pleasures of Hope</em>. Another
-poet has revelled in this region; for the Trishnish Islands belong to
-the group described by Scott:&mdash;</p>
-
-<div class="poetry-container">
-<div class="poetry">
-  <div class="stanza">
-    <div class="verse indent0">‘The shores of Mull on the eastward lay,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">And Ulva dark, and Colonsay,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">And all the group of islets gay</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">That guard famed Staffa round.</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Then all unknown its columns rose,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Where dark and undisturbed repose</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">The cormorant had found,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">And the shy seal had quiet home,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">And weltered in that wondrous dome,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Where, as to shame the temples decked</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">By skill of earthly architect,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Nature herself, it seemed, would raise</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">A Minster to her Maker’s praise!’</div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_042"><img src="images/i_042.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="295" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>The Trishnish Islands.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The Trishnish Islands are covered with rich grass, which
-makes excellent pasture. The Laird of Calgary fattens his
-mutton there during the summer months, and sends out a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43"></a>[43]</span>
-yacht once a fortnight to capture two or three sheep for
-use. As the animals are as wild and as swift as deer, capturing
-them is no easy task. They are generally driven
-by a contracting line of men and boys into a trap made
-with spars and a sail between two rocks on the shore; but
-they often break through the cordon, and even leap sometimes
-over the heads of the drivers.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_043"><img src="images/i_043.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="443" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Distant View of Staffa.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>This, however, is a digression. The rough sea, and consideration
-for the weaker vessels of the party, male and
-female, induced Sir Donald Currie to abandon the intention
-of visiting Staffa, with a distant view of which the guests
-had to be satisfied. It is noteworthy that this yachting
-cruise was the only occasion, during the whole trip, on which
-symptoms of sea-sickness showed themselves. It may be
-added that the most serious case was that of Sir Donald’s
-young piper, who had never been on the sea before; but
-scarcely had the yacht been put about when a few blasts of
-a pibroch, recalling memories of the braes of Garth and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44"></a>[44]</span>
-Glenlyon, gave audible proofs of his convalescence, and
-indeed completed the cure. On returning to Tobermory we
-landed, and enjoyed a refreshing walk on the shore before
-dinner: some exploring the woods about Aros House, and
-others climbing to the heights that surround the town,
-whence a wider view was obtained.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_044"><img src="images/i_044.jpg" alt="" width="650" height="515" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>The Pilot.</em>&mdash;&mdash;<em>A Tobermory Lassie.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The evening was given up to recreation, including dancing
-to the music of the ship’s band, under the awning on the
-promenade deck, which, lighted up with electric lamps,
-made a spacious and brilliant ballroom. This was carried
-on in presence of nearly the whole population of Tobermory,
-which had come out, on Sir Donald’s invitation, to see the
-stately ship. The performances were not by any means confined
-to the saloon folks. Our stalwart pilot, relieved of his
-duties for the night, came out strong in the ‘reels’; and,
-having shown his paces in a ‘fling’ with our chief, he was in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45"></a>[45]</span>
-great request with the Tobermory lassies, with one of whom
-he engaged in a kind of terpsichorean duel, which reminded
-the spectators of</p>
-
-<div class="poetry-container">
-<div class="poetry">
-  <div class="stanza">
-    <div class="verse indent0">‘The dancing pair that, simply, sought renown</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">By holding out to tire each other down.’</div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>Another hero of the dance was one of the quartermasters,
-who was a match for any of the natives, or, for that matter,
-for any of the crew, engineers or seamen. It was a case of
-‘one down, another come on,’ and the contest might have
-lasted till break of day. Unfortunately, however, the
-festivities were marred by a heavy downpour of rain; but
-that did not prevent the singing of ‘Auld Lang Syne’ and
-‘God save the Queen,’ or hearty cheers for our host, before
-the party broke up. One could not but feel sorry for the
-poor people who had to find their way to the shore in the
-dark, and through the pelting, pitiless rain.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_045"><img src="images/i_045.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="456" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Ardtornish Castle.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46"></a>[46]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="V">V</h2>
-</div>
-
-<p class="center">ROUND ABOUT SKYE</p>
-
-<div>
-  <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_046.jpg" width="90" height="82" alt=""/>
-</div>
-<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">Wednesday</span> morning was dull and misty. We had to feel our way
-cautiously between Eigg and Rum in the direction of Skye. No view could
-be obtained either of the Coolins or of the mountains of the mainland.
-It was indeed tantalising to know that we were in the neighbourhood
-of some of the grandest scenery in Scotland, and to be unable to
-see a vestige of it, except occasionally a few outlying rocks, or a
-mountainous headland swept by the mist. Early in the day we cast anchor
-in the Sound of Soa, near the entrance to Loch Scavaig.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_046a"><img src="images/i_046a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="450" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>The ‘Iolanthe’ off Eigg and Rum.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p class="space-above2"></p>
-<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47"></a>[47]</span>
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_047"><img src="images/i_047.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="486" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Loch Scavaig.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The object of stopping at that point in the voyage was
-to visit Loch Coruisk, the wildest and most desolate of
-Highland lochs, imbedded in the heart of the Coolins.
-In spite of the mist and the threatening rain, nearly the
-whole party started in the ‘Iolanthe’ for the head of Loch
-Scavaig. Scavaig itself is a very grand loch, partaking of
-the gloom of the mountains that surround it,&mdash;a gloom
-relieved only by the breakers on the rocky coast, and the
-glint of the wings of sea-birds. The landing, at all times
-difficult, was rendered more so by the slippery state of the
-rocks: but it was effected without serious mishap. After a
-rough walk of half a mile, over boulders and broken rocks,
-the south end of the dark lake was reached. No one had
-any reason to regret the toils or the risks of the expedition.
-Though the mists concealed the mountain tops, they intensified
-the darkness of the lake. The rain, which had been
-falling for some time in sport, now began to come down in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48"></a>[48]</span>
-earnest, and it quickly swelled the thousand streams that
-covered the hillsides. The silver streaks had become roaring
-cataracts. The loneliness of the scene was oppressive. The
-lines in which Scott has described the silent lake, whose
-name is a synonym for desolation, occurred to many. It is
-the Bruce that speaks:&mdash;</p>
-
-<div class="poetry-container">
-<div class="poetry">
-  <div class="stanza">
-    <div class="verse indent0">‘Saint Mary! what a scene is here!</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">I’ve traversed many a mountain-strand,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Abroad, and in my native land,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">And it has been my lot to tread</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Where safety more than pleasure led;</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Thus, many a waste I’ve wandered o’er,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Clombe many a crag, crossed many a moor;</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">But, by my halidome,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">A scene so rude, so wild as this,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Yet so sublime in barrenness,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Never did my wandering footsteps press,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">Where’er I happed to roam.’</div>
-  </div>
-  <div class="stanza">
-    <div class="verse indent0">No marvel thus the Monarch spake;</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">For rarely human eye has known</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">A scene so stern as that dread lake,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">With its dark ledge of barren stone.</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Seems that primeval earthquake’s sway</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Hath rent a strange and shattered way</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">Through the rude bosom of the hill;</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">And that each naked precipice,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Sable ravine, and dark abyss,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">Tells of the outrage still.</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">The wildest glen but this can show</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Some touch of Nature’s genial glow;</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">On high Benmore green mosses grow,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">And heath-bells bud in deep Glencroe,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">And copse on Cruchan-Ben;</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">But here,&mdash;above, around, below,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">On mountain or in glen,&mdash;</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Nor tree, nor shrub, nor plant, nor flower,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Nor ought of vegetative power,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">The weary eye may ken.</div><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49"></a>[49]</span>
-    <div class="verse indent0">For all is rocks at random thrown,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Black waves, bare crags, and banks of stone,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">As if were here denied</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">The summer sun, the spring’s sweet dew,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">That clothe with many a varied hue</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">The bleakest mountain-side.</div>
-  </div>
-  <div class="stanza">
-    <div class="verse indent0">The evening mists, with ceaseless change,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Now clothed the mountains’ lofty range,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">Now left their foreheads bare,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">And round the skirts their mantle furled,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Or on the sable waters curled,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Or on the eddying breezes whirled,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">Dispersed in middle air.</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">And oft, condensed, at once they lower,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">When, brief and fierce, the mountain shower</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">Pours like a torrent down.</div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_049"><img src="images/i_049.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="428" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Mountains in Mist&mdash;Skye.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>If the rain added to the picturesqueness of the scene, it
-did not add to the comfort of the visitors, most of whom
-returned to the ship drenched from head to foot. But
-their spirits were not damped, whatever their bodies were:<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50"></a>[50]</span>
-for all were in the greatest good humour. Some one,
-probably a man, expressed the wish that the mist were
-away. Some one else, probably a woman, suggested that it
-would not be <em>missed</em> if it were away. Such ‘Coruiskations’
-of wit were not inappropriate to the occasion, though they
-may have been to the scene. They helped at all events
-to keep up the spirits of the party. The refreshments
-distributed on the return to the ‘Dunottar Castle’ had a
-similar effect.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_050"><img src="images/i_050.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="309" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Detached Rocks&mdash;Coast of Skye.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The anchor was then weighed, and we steamed round the
-west and north coasts of Skye, the ‘Iolanthe’ going in the
-opposite direction through the Sound of Sleat to Portree,
-where we were to meet, and to anchor for the night. The
-effects of the rain were seen in a tremendous increase in the
-waterfalls that precipitate themselves into the Sound of
-Soa from the steep sides of the mountains. The cataracts
-were indeed magnificent, and every one felt that the wild
-weather had not been without its compensations.</p>
-
-<p>To tell the truth, however, the scenery had to be taken
-very much for granted. One or two picturesque bits of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51"></a>[51]</span>
-rocky coast were all that could be seen. ‘M‘Leod’s Maidens’
-were ‘children of the Mist.’ Dunvegan Castle was nowhere.
-Duntulm was invisible. The bold Quiraing, and the Old
-Man of Storr, and Prince Charlie’s Cave, were held as seen;
-and when we anchored in the evening in the Sound of Raasay,
-opposite Portree, we might have been anywhere.</p>
-
-<p>These untoward conditions, however, did not interfere
-with our enjoyment of the good things provided for us on
-board, or of the adjournment to the smoking-room at a
-later hour, when bad jokes and good stories were equally
-enjoyed, and when some wonderful card tricks were performed
-by our own Wizard of the North, who proved,
-however, mere potter’s clay in the cool hands of Captain
-Webster.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_051"><img src="images/i_051.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="365" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Near Strome Ferry.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52"></a>[52]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="VI">VI</h2>
-</div>
-
-<p class="center">WILD LOCH ALSH AND DARK LOCH DUICH</p>
-
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_052a"><img src="images/i_052a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="416" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Outside of Portree Bay&mdash;Sunrise.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<div>
-  <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_052.jpg" width="90" height="96" alt=""/>
-</div>
-<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">The</span> morning of Thursday brought a welcome change. The day opened
-grandly, and the good weather which then set in blessed us during the
-remainder of the cruise. Those who rose early, of whom our Special
-Artist was one, were rewarded with a splendid view of the hills behind
-Portree, and of the bay and harbour. We started soon after breakfast
-in the ‘Iolanthe’ for Strome Ferry, where several members of the party
-were to leave us, and where others were to take their places, while all
-eagerly awaited letters and telegrams.</p>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53"></a>[53]</span></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_053"><img src="images/i_053.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="439" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Scalpa Island&mdash;Skye.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p class="space-above2"></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_053a"><img src="images/i_053a.jpg" alt="" width="550" height="573" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Whale blowing&mdash;off Skye.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The sail across the Inner Sound was extremely pleasant and
-exhilarating. Loch Sligachan slept in peace. Scuirna-gillean and
-Blaven still wore their nightcaps. The island of Scalpa was a blaze
-of rich colour, heightened by the white sails of a passing yacht.
-The Islands of Longa and Pabba were emeralds set in a blue sea.
-Broadford was a picture of self-contained repose. Off Pabba, two
-large whales&mdash;probably truants from the school, a thousand
-strong, lately reported from the Shetland seas&mdash;appeared<span
-class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54"></a>[54]</span> ever and anon to plough
-the surface of the water, and one of our photographers succeeded in
-catching them (in her camera) in the very act of blowing clouds of
-spray into the air.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_054"><img src="images/i_054.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="427" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Loch Carron&mdash;from Strome Ferry.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p class="space-above2"></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_054a"><img src="images/i_054a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="352" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Head of Loch Carron&mdash;from Strome Ferry.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>At the entrance to Loch Carron, the parallel beaches on opposite
-sides of the loch were mistaken by not a few on board for railway
-embankments. Like the parallel beaches of Glen Roy and the other
-valleys of Lochaber, they are obviously old moraines, but that does
-not make them less interesting; rather more so. Unfortunately, we
-reached Strome Ferry pier just in time to see the eleven o’clock
-train steam out of the station, and meander along the coast of
-the Loch. It was rather aggravating,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55"></a>[55]</span>
-no doubt; but everything comes to him who waits; and our disappointed
-friends, who wished to go southward, were able to enjoy a drive over
-the crest of the promontory to Balmacarra, and to return in time for
-the two o’clock train.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_055"><img src="images/i_055.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="429" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Misty Morning&mdash;Loch Carron.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p class="space-above2"></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_055a"><img src="images/i_055a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="459" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>The Coolins&mdash;The ‘Dunottar Castle.’</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Loch Carron is a very beautiful sea. It cannot compare in
-grandeur or boldness with Loch Alsh or Loch Hourn. Its beauty is
-of a softer type, and a simpler character; but its charms are not
-less. The navigable entrance to it is narrow, owing to treacherous
-rocks; and the tide flows through the passage with tremendous force
-and speed. We pass on the one shore the ruins of Strome Castle,
-and on the other the handsome residence of Duncraig, and the
-fishing<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56"></a>[56]</span> village
-of Plockton&mdash;a collection of weatherbeaten huts, but prettily
-situated on an outstanding promontory. As we emerge from the Loch, we
-have a very grand view of the Coolins, with the ‘Dunottar Castle’ lying
-under their shadow, and of the islands of Scalpa and Raasay&mdash;the
-latter crowned with a curious little table-mountain over which the Old
-Man of Storr is distinctly visible.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_056"><img src="images/i_056.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="433" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Kyle Akin.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Later in the day, and still on board the ‘Iolanthe,’ we steamed
-through the narrow passage of Kyle Akin (between Skye and the mainland)
-into Loch Alsh. The mouth of the loch is intersected by reefs and
-rocks, on the crest of one of which is the ruin of Castle Maoil. Near
-it, on the right hand, is the pretty village of Kyle Akin, built
-round a crescent-shaped bay with lovely sands. One would like to
-pause at such a charming spot, or to visit Balmacarra, peaceful and
-sweet-looking, or to inspect more closely the monument, not far off,
-erected by Sir Roderick Murchison to the memory of one of his ancestors
-who heroically collected the rents of the proscribed Earl of Seaforth
-after the ’45; but we have to content ourselves with distant views, in
-the meantime at least.</p>
-
-<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57"></a>[57]</span>
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_057"><img src="images/i_057.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="468" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Castle Maoil&mdash;near Kyle Akin.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p class="space-above2"></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_057a"><img src="images/i_057a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="415" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>In Loch Alsh&mdash;Skye in the distance.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The constant changes in the character of the scenery of
-Loch Alsh are perplexing. We think we have reached the
-head of the loch, when, suddenly, a new channel opens up in
-<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58"></a>[58]</span>the apparently landlocked course. When King Haco of
-Norway found his way into this inland loch, as he did on his northward
-voyage after his defeat at Largs, he might very well have imagined
-himself to have been caught in one of his native fiords, so tortuous is
-the course and so difficult is the navigation.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_058"><img src="images/i_058.jpg" alt="" width="411" height="600" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Eilean Donan Castle&mdash;Loch Duich.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p class="space-above2"></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_058a"><img src="images/i_058a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="448" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Entrance to Loch Duich.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>At the head of the loch, we approach the ruin of Eilean Donan
-Castle, which stands at the junction of three lochs&mdash;Loch<span
-class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59"></a>[59]</span> Alsh, Loch Long, and
-Loch Duich. The castle, built on a detached island, must in olden
-times have been a place of strength; but the story goes that it was
-demolished by the guns of Cromwell. Passing the Castle on the left,
-we enter Loch Duich, which, though an arm of the sea, has all the
-appearance of a fresh-water lake, so smooth is its surface, and so
-soft and fertile are its banks. It attains its greatest beauty near
-the mansion-house of Inverinate and the village of Kintail, in the
-midst of rich woods on its northern shore. The prevailing green tints
-gleam out in the fitful sunshine with a richness and variety that are
-enchanting. At its head, the loch is closed in by a magnificent group
-of pyramidal mountains&mdash;Ben Attow, Scour Ouran, Ben Mhor, and
-the Saddle&mdash;all rising to a height of upwards of 3300 feet, and
-separated by well-defined and gloomy valleys.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_059"><img src="images/i_059.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="260" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Head of Loch Duich.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The return voyage in the evening was very fine. As we emerged from
-Loch Alsh and crossed Loch Carron, we had again a grand view of the
-Coolins, cloud-capped and solemn, and traversed by the axled rays of
-the setting sun. We steamed in the direction of Loch Kishorn,<span
-class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60"></a>[60]</span> a northerly arm of Loch
-Carron, where the ‘Dunottar Castle’ awaited us, and where we anchored
-for the night.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_060"><img src="images/i_060.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="374" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>The Coolins&mdash;from Loch Alsh.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>That night was made memorable by several incidents.
-In the first place, the electric search-light was got into working
-order, and we astonished the natives of Courthill and
-other solitary houses by flashing the light of day in upon
-them at midnight. The ship’s pinnace and other small
-craft on the loch appeared like lime-light pictures thrown
-on a screen. The submarine electric tackle, which is used
-in cases of accident to the screw, or to the bottom of the
-vessel, was also got into play; and a very striking and novel
-effect it produced. A number of small fishes were attracted
-by the light, and swam about within the halo it formed.
-The scene recalled forcibly the stanza which Byron completed
-by adding the last two lines:&mdash;</p>
-
-<div class="poetry-container">
-<div class="poetry">
-  <div class="stanza">
-    <div class="verse indent0">“The sun’s perpendicular ray</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">Illumined the depths of the sea;</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">And the fishes, beginning to sweat,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">Cried (something) how hot we shall be.”</div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-</div>
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_61"></a>[61]</span></p>
-<div class="figright">
-<a id="image_061"><img src="images/i_061.jpg" alt="" width="244" height="500" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>The Piper.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figleft">
-<a id="image_061a"><img src="images/i_061a.jpg" alt="" width="192" height="500" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">Sammy.</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Most memorable of all, the Captain’s boy astonished every one
-by volunteering a hornpipe, while dancing was in progress on the
-promenade deck. Sir Donald summoned his piper to play the necessary
-accompaniment; but that did not suit Sammy’s steps. He required the
-whole orchestra of the ship’s band; and he gave them his instructions
-with the cool confidence of a professional performer. While he was
-in the very midst of his double-shuffle, Captain Webster appeared on
-the gangway, calling, ‘Sammy, you rascal, what are you doing there?’
-Sir Donald, fancying for the moment that the Captain was in earnest,
-rushed forward to propitiate his wrath. It was as good as a play. If
-the scene had been preconcerted, it could not have been more effective.
-But Sam was not in the least perturbed. He continued his performance
-amid the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_62"></a>[62]</span> applause
-of the whole company, until he was tired out. It afterwards transpired
-that the boy had been ‘on the boards’ before, probably in the part of
-the ‘Midshipmite’ in the Children’s ‘Pinafore.’</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_062"><img src="images/i_062.jpg" alt="" width="472" height="550" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Head of Loch Kishorn.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_63"></a>[63]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="VII">VII</h2>
-</div>
-
-<p class="center">ROUND CAPE WRATH</p>
-
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_063a"><img src="images/i_063a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="216" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Rona Island&mdash;Lewis and Harris in the distance.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<div>
-  <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_063.jpg" width="90" height="86" alt=""/>
-</div>
-<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">Friday</span>, September 5th, was perhaps the most enjoyable day of the
-whole cruise. We started, in magnificent weather, with the intention
-of steaming up the west coast to Cape Wrath, and thence eastward along
-the north coast to Thurso. We steered up the Inner Sound, between
-Raasay and Rona on the one hand, and the rugged coast of Applecross
-on the other. We crossed Loch Torridon, at the head of which Ben
-Liugach rose in calm and majestic splendour. Opposite Gairloch, we had
-a fine view of Ben Slioch, which overlooks Loch Maree. Still finer,
-however, was the view backward, where the Coolins frowned even in
-the sunshine&mdash;the solemn pyramid of Blaven asserting itself in
-presence of loftier peaks. From this rugged background the rocky ridge
-extended northward by the Storr rocks and the Quiraing to the extremity
-of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_64"></a>[64]</span> island.
-Toward the west, the misty outline of Lewis and Harris broke, but
-scarcely broke, the regularity of the horizon.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_064"><img src="images/i_064.jpg" alt="" width="359" height="550" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Summer Sheen&mdash;in Skye Waters.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Then we crossed Loch Broom, with its Summer Isles, and
-the point of Rhu-Coigach, and Enard Bay, and Loch Inver,
-and we began to recognise the peculiar character of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_65"></a>[65]</span>
-Sutherlandshire mountains. They rise abruptly to a considerable
-height from wide intervening valleys, and they
-frequently assume the sugar-loaf shape. That is the case
-with Suilven, ‘the sugar-loaf’ <em>par excellence</em>, and also with
-Canisp, and Ben Stack, and Foinaven near Loch Laxford.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_065"><img src="images/i_065.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="396" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>The Coolins&mdash;Blaven&mdash;Marsco.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The whole coast is rugged and forbidding. Close to the Point of
-Stoer is the Rhu-Stoer, a detached columnar rock resembling the Old
-Man of Hoy in Orkney. Several other stacks of similar formation were
-seen as we passed northward, conspicuously ‘The Shepherd’ between Loch
-Inchard and Cape Wrath. As we approached the latter, we felt once more
-the Atlantic swell, and the ship pitched and rolled somewhat, though
-she was as a rock in comparison with the smaller coasting steamers that
-ply habitually in these waters, two of which we saw labouring heavily;
-and some of us, at least, felt thankful that we were not as they.</p>
-
-<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_66"></a>[66]</span>
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_066"><img src="images/i_066.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="348" /></a>
-<p class="caption center">Cape Wrath</p>
-<p class="caption center">&mdash;Lennox Browne</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Cape Wrath, now seen by many of us for the first time, is really
-a splendid headland. The name in its modern interpretation may be
-appropriate enough, considering the wild seas that roar and bluster
-around it; but in point of fact it has no connection with the English
-word ‘wrath.’ It is a corruption of the Norse ‘Hvarf,’ which meant ‘the
-turning-point of the land,’ and might have been more correctly<span
-class="pagenum"><a id="Page_67"></a>[67]</span> Englished ‘Cape Warp.’
-The lighthouse stands on a cliff 370 feet above the sea, beneath which
-there is a succession of jagged points, or needle-rocks, stretching
-seaward, perforated at their bases with several openings, through which
-the surf breaks and spends itself in spray. A more perilous point for
-shipping in a dark night it would be hard to conceive. As we passed
-the Cape, the cold, rainy squalls which had followed us for some time
-cleared off, leaving behind them, however, very striking effects of sea
-and sky.</p>
-
-<p>The north coast, east of Cape Wrath, partakes of the
-same rugged character as the promontory. There are castle
-rocks, and detached rocks, and dark ‘cletts,’ too numerous to
-mention. There are isolated mountains of considerable
-height about the dark Kyle of Durness, and Loch Erribol,
-and the Kyle of Tongue. The coast-scenery, however, becomes
-rapidly tamer. Ben Hope and Ben Loyal are the last prominent
-peaks that stand out from the undulating plain.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_067"><img src="images/i_067.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="298" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Thurso&mdash;from the Bay.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Beyond Strathy Point, we reach the lowlands of Caithness.
-Green meadows and
-yellow corn-fields sloping down to the golden sands become<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_68"></a>[68]</span>
-common. Around Brims Ness and Holburn Head, the
-coast is as flat and level as the shores of Fife and the
-Lothians. Near Holburn
-Head, however, there is another
-huge detached rock, 200 feet high,
-called the Clett, around which the
-ocean surges and swells night and day in most weathers.
-Passing this rock at a safe distance, we entered Thurso
-Bay, and anchored securely in Scrabster Roads. The rain
-clouds cleared off toward evening, and revealed a beautiful
-sunset.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_068"><img src="images/i_068.jpg" alt="" width="365" height="550" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>The Old Man of Hoy.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_69"></a>[69]</span>
-<p>At Thurso (which is Thor’s Town, another Norse landmark)
-we were in touch once more with the British railway
-and postal systems. The most prominent object on the mainland
-was the castle lately rebuilt by Sir J. G. Tollemache
-Sinclair&mdash;a cold-looking mansion, rendered more forbidding
-by the absence of trees. The town itself looked very
-picturesque, with its spires and chimneys breaking the
-coast-line, while the fields of golden grain that surrounded
-it bespoke fertility and prosperity. Other noteworthy
-features of the neighbourhood were Harold’s Tower, the
-Bishop’s Castle, and the bold bluffs of Dunnet Head, the
-most northerly point of the mainland. The northward
-view included the Orkney Islands, and Hoy Head, with
-the Old Man of Hoy at its base, which, at a later hour,
-and in the ‘witching time of night,’ stood out grandly in
-the moonlight.</p>
-
-<div class="poetry-container">
-<div class="poetry">
-  <div class="stanza">
-    <div class="verse indent12">‘The Old Man of Hoy</div>
-    <div class="verse indent12">Looks out on the sea,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Where the tide runs strong, and the wave rides free:</div>
-    <div class="verse indent6">He looks on the broad Atlantic sea,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent12">And the Old Man of Hoy</div>
-    <div class="verse indent12">Hath this great joy,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">To hear the deep roar of the wide blue ocean,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">And to stand unmoved ’mid the sleepless motion,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent12">And to feel o’er his head</div>
-    <div class="verse indent12">The white foam spread</div>
-    <div class="verse indent6">From the wild wave proudly swelling,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent12">And to care no whit</div>
-    <div class="verse indent12">For the storm’s rude fit,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent6">Where he stands on his old rock-dwelling.’</div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="date-r">&mdash;<span class="smcap">Professor Blackie.</span></p>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_70"></a>[70]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="VIII">VIII</h2>
-</div>
-
-<p class="center">A RAID ON ORKNEY</p>
-
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_070a"><img src="images/i_070a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="355" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Copinsay Island&mdash;Orkney.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<div>
-  <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_070.jpg" width="90" height="92" alt=""/>
-</div>
-<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">During</span> the night we were rocked in the cradle of the deep, even at
-our anchorage, by the north-west wind, which blew strongly; and at
-an early hour in the morning, the anchor was weighed, and we steamed
-steadily through the Pentland Firth, generally a tempestuous passage,
-and then northward past the rugged islet of Copinsay, with its myriads
-of sea-birds, into Shapinsay Sound. Balfour Castle, on the island of
-Shapinsay, was the most prominent object in the landscape. One is apt
-to wonder how the massive building came there, so inconsistent is
-its pretentious appearance with its bare and cheerless surroundings.
-By-and-by we anchored in Kirkwall Roads, and every one, as quickly as
-possible, was<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_71"></a>[71]</span>
-transferred to land in the ‘Iolanthe,’ and the steam launch, or the
-attendant gigs.</p>
-
-<p>Kirkwall is not a very stirring or lively place, but it has an
-old-world flavour, which makes a visit to it pleasant and memorable.
-Its narrow and tortuous streets, paved with flags, its old-fashioned
-houses, many of them with secluded courts, and presenting their gables
-to the sea, and most of all its ancient Cathedral, invest it with a
-peculiar interest.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_071"><img src="images/i_071.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="350" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Kirkwall&mdash;from the Bay.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>The Cathedral forms, of course, its chief attraction.
-This building, which is the most conspicuous object in the
-town, as seen either from the sea or from the land, dates
-from the twelfth century, having been founded by Jarl
-Rognvald in 1137, in memory of his uncle, St. Magnus. Its
-style is chiefly Norman, but it contains many features of
-the Pointed Gothic or Early English style, which makes
-it extremely interesting to the antiquary and the architect,
-resembling in that respect the famous Cathedral of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72"></a>[72]</span>
-Trondhjem, which belongs to the same period. Outwardly,
-it is wonderfully well preserved. Though really a very
-small building of its kind&mdash;a cathedral in miniature,&mdash;its
-parts are so well proportioned that it has almost an imposing
-appearance. Worthy of special notice are the great
-east window, which Sir Henry Dryden believed to be unique;
-the circular window in the south transept; and the carving
-of the west door, which Dryden refers to as probably the
-finest example in the British Islands of the effective combination
-of particoloured stones. But the delicate floral
-work in the arch of the doorway is now much weather-worn,
-and the fine pillars are wasted to skeletons. The
-tower, to which we mounted, commands a splendid view of
-the town and bay and the surrounding islands.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_072"><img src="images/i_072.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="453" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>The Earl’s Palace&mdash;Kirkwall.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>From the Cathedral we passed to the Bishop’s Palace,
-part of which is probably as old as the Cathedral itself,
-though the greater part is known to have been built in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_73"></a>[73]</span>
-the sixteenth century by Bishop Reid, who made additions
-to the Cathedral also. In the older part of this palace
-King Haco died on his return from Largs, and his remains
-lay for a time within the Cathedral.</p>
-
-<p>Still more interesting are the remains of the Earl’s Palace, which
-stands to the east of the last-named building. It was erected by the
-notorious Earl Patrick Stewart&mdash;“Black Pate”&mdash;about 1590.
-He was the son of Lord Robert Stewart (a natural son of James <span
-class="allsmcap"><abbr title="5">V</abbr>.</span>), Earl of Orkney. Black Pate also built
-Scalloway Castle in Shetland; and in the erection of both he levied
-contributions from his vassals and retainers without stint, requiring
-them not only to furnish the materials in stone, lime and eggs, with
-which the mortar was mixed, but also to work like slaves under his
-command: hence his by-name, “The Scourge of the Islands.” By-and-by his
-notorious deeds became known in Edinburgh, and he was captured, and
-ended his career on the gallows.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_073"><img src="images/i_073.jpg" alt="" width="348" height="550" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>The Earl’s Palace&mdash;Kirkwall.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>He must, however, have been a man of fine taste and grand
-notions, if we are to judge by the architectural features of his
-palace. It is really a fine specimen of the Scottish baronial style,
-many of the details of ornament&mdash;in<span class="pagenum"><a
-id="Page_74"></a>[74]</span> round turrets, quaint gables, and
-projecting windows&mdash;being beautiful, especially as seen through
-the grove of sycamore-trees which surrounds the building. A remarkable
-feature is a level arch over one of the great fireplaces in the
-banqueting hall, on either side of which the initials “P.E.O.”
-(Patrick, Earl of Orkney) may still be seen. This is one of the best
-examples of the straight arch in Scotland.</p>
-
-<p>The day being exceedingly fine, a large contingent enjoyed
-a drive along the Stromness road to Maeshowe and the
-Stones of Brogar and Stenness.</p>
-
-<p>Maeshowe is an unique chambered mound, and is one of
-the most interesting of the many interesting antiquities of
-Orkney. The mound is 36 feet high and 300 feet in circumference.
-The central chamber (15 feet square) is built
-of solid blocks of stone. The roof is of bee-hive shape, and
-in the walls there are on three sides deep cells or shelves
-5 or 6 feet long. It is reached by a long and narrow
-passage, and as the whole is underground, it has to be
-explored by candle-light. The position and the dimensions
-of the cells suggest a place of burial, such as the early Britons
-used; but the numerous inscriptions on the walls are Runic
-and Norse. There has therefore been a great deal of discussion
-as to the purpose of the building; but the general
-belief now is that it was originally a Pictish sepulchre, and
-that it was broken into by the Norsemen after the ninth
-century, and was used by them as a place of refuge, and
-for the concealment of treasure.</p>
-
-<p>A mile and a half farther on are the two celebrated stone
-circles, called respectively the Ring of Brogar and the Ring
-of Stenness. The latter is the smaller, though it has given its<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_75"></a>[75]</span>
-name to the whole. According to our own Antiquary, who
-accompanied the party, that circle was 104 feet in diameter,
-and consisted originally of twelve stones, of which only two
-are standing. The Ring of Brogar, according to the same
-authority, was 340 feet in diameter, and comprised sixty
-stones, of which thirteen are standing, while ten others,
-though they have fallen, are still entire. We were assured
-that these are the finest stone circles in Scotland, far surpassing
-in extent the Stones of Callernish in Lewis, and
-comparing favourably with the more famous remains of
-Stonehenge. As to the purpose of these circles, we were left
-to solve the mystery for ourselves, being warned, however, that
-their connection with Druidical worship is now discredited.</p>
-
-<p>One of the most famous of these monoliths was the Stone
-of Odin in the Stenness circle, now no longer erect. It was
-perforated by a hole, about five feet from the ground, and
-was regarded with the utmost veneration, being used (as the
-readers of Scott’s <em>Pirate</em> will remember) as the place where
-lovers plighted their troth by clasping hands through the
-aperture. The stones in the case of both circles are of the
-Old Red Sandstone formation.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_075"><img src="images/i_075.jpg" alt="" width="460" height="500" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">West Doorway Kirkwall Cathedral </span></p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_76"></a>[76]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="IX">IX</h2>
-</div>
-
-<p class="center">OUR SHIP’S NAME-MOTHER</p>
-
-
-<div>
-  <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_076.jpg" width="90" height="96" alt=""/>
-</div>
-<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">The</span> whole party returned to the ‘Dunottar Castle’ about five
-o’clock, and soon afterwards the anchor was weighed and we started
-on our homeward voyage. The wind, which had been blowing fresh from
-the north-west all day, fell away toward sunset, and during the
-night&mdash;the only night spent in sailing&mdash;we had a wonderfully
-quiet passage.</p>
-
-<p>About five o’clock in the morning, those who were fortunate enough
-to occupy berths on the port side of the ship saw a magnificent
-sunrise. The sky was clear overhead, but there was a dense bank of
-clouds on the eastern horizon. Presently, in the midst of the dark
-mass, a ruddy longitudinal streak appeared. Then the streak was doubled
-and multiplied. The upper air glowed with opalescent tints. The clouds
-melted away, and the ruddy orb of the sun appeared on the verge of the
-ocean. The sea around us, and for miles away, was calm as a mirror, and
-reflected the gradations of light and the fiery hues of the eastern
-sky. It was an enchanting scene, such as could be witnessed only once
-or twice in a lifetime.</p>
-
-<p>We passed Aberdeen about six o’clock, but at too great a
-distance to obtain a definite view. About breakfast-time we<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_77"></a>[77]</span>
-were off Stonehaven, which threw back from its windows the
-rays of the morning sun. It was a glorious day. Not a
-cloud darkened the sky, not a ripple broke the surface of
-the sea except in the track of the ship. Presently we were
-abreast of the ruins of Dunottar Castle, perched on its rocky
-pedestal&mdash;the veritable name-mother of our ship. The
-breakfast-bell was ringing (a welcome sound in ordinary
-circumstances), but every one was loath to leave the deck.
-The order was therefore given to lie-to until that necessary
-rite had been performed. Then we returned to the deck
-with satisfied spirits, and gazed for half an hour or more on
-the beautiful scene. Artists, photographers, and scribes
-were soon busily at work, all eager to catch the fleeting
-beauty.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_077"><img src="images/i_077.jpg" alt="" width="499" height="500" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Dunottar Castle.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_78"></a>[78]</span></p>
-
-<p>The detached, or semi-detached, rock on which the ruins
-of the Castle stand is about two miles south of Stonehaven.
-It is 160 feet high, and a deep chasm separates it, all but
-completely, from the mainland, which at this point is wild
-and precipitous. The neighbourhood, indeed, is a continuous
-series of cliffs, which are frequented by numerous
-sea-birds: hence the popular name given to the coast, of
-the ‘Fowlesheugh.’</p>
-
-<p>Here again the resources of our own Antiquary were
-called into requisition, and he assured us, with the unblushing
-confidence of an expert, that the name of the Castle meant
-in Gaelic ‘the fort of the low promontory.’ It is easy to
-believe that the rock was the site of a castle from very early
-times, a siege of ‘Dunfoither’ (as it was then called) by
-a king of the Picts in the seventh century being on record
-(681 <span class="allsmcap">A.D.</span>). <a id="FNanchor_1_1" href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> The Castle the ruins of which remain is of
-course of much later date, though its buildings belong
-to different ages. It appears, from evident signs, to have
-covered the greater part of the surface of the rock, which
-is 4½ acres in extent.</p>
-
-<div class="footnote">
-<p><a id="Footnote_1_1" href="#FNanchor_1_1" class="label">[1]</a> See Sir Donald Currie’s <cite>Book of Garth and Fortingall</cite>, page
-83.</p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Its position resembles very closely that of Tantallon
-Castle in the Firth of Forth, and before the days of artillery
-it must have been almost impregnable. Nevertheless, Blind
-Harry describes a capture of Dunottar by William Wallace,
-when four thousand Englishmen were burned in the Castle.
-It was re-fortified by Edward <span class="allsmcap"><abbr title="3">III</abbr>.</span> in 1336; but these incidents
-relate to an older castle than that of which the remains
-survive.</p>
-
-<p>The present Castle, as far as can be ascertained, was
-begun by Sir William Keith, the ‘Great Marischal of
-<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_79"></a>[79]</span>Scotland,’ towards the close of the fourteenth century, and the
-lands and castle remained in the hands of the Keith family
-till the Rebellion of 1715, when the owner threw in his lot with
-the Pretender, and forfeited his estates. One of the mottoes
-of the family was couched in the quaint and defiant words,</p>
-
-<div class="poetry-container">
-<div class="poetry">
-  <div class="stanza">
-    <div class="verse">‘They haif said:</div>
-    <div class="verse">Quhat say they:</div>
-    <div class="verse">Lat thame say!’</div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>When the ship received the name of the Castle, these words
-also were adopted as its motto.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_079"><img src="images/i_079.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="418" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Dunottar Castle in olden time&mdash;from an old print.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Dunottar was besieged by the gallant Marquis of
-Montrose during the great Rebellion, the Earl Marischal
-of that time having been a Covenanter (1645). Montrose
-offered him fair terms if he would capitulate, but the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_80"></a>[80]</span>
-Covenanting clergymen who had taken refuge within the
-Castle overruled him, as their kind overruled David Leslie
-at Dunbar; and he was not allowed to surrender. Thereupon
-the Marquis subjected the surrounding property to
-military execution, to the great dismay of the Earl, when he
-saw flames and smoke rising from his houses, and notwithstanding
-the assurance of Andrew Cant (ominous name) ‘that
-the reek would be a sweet-smelling incense in the nostrils
-of the Lord.’ Evacuation followed as a matter of course.</p>
-
-<p>When Charles <span class="allsmcap"><abbr title="2">II</abbr>.</span> visited Scotland in 1650, he was entertained
-in Dunottar Castle by the seventh Earl Marischal.
-In the following year, when the English Parliamentary army
-overran Scotland, the Scottish Estates deposited the Regalia
-in Dunottar Castle, then deemed the strongest place in
-the kingdom, and George Ogilvy of Barras was appointed
-Lieutenant-Governor. It was besieged by Cromwell’s army,
-and Ogilvy held out until famine rendered his troops
-mutinous, whereupon he surrendered. Before he did so,
-however, the Regalia had been cleverly removed by Mrs.
-Granger, the wife of the minister of Kinneff&mdash;a village on
-the coast, four miles farther south. Having obtained the
-permission of the English commandant to visit her friend
-Mrs. Ogilvy, the Lieutenant-Governor’s wife, Mrs. Granger,
-carried with her, on leaving the Castle, a bundle of clothes,
-in which the Crown was imbedded, and also a huge distaff
-covered with lint, which was in fact formed of the Sceptre
-and the Sword of State.</p>
-
-<p>The same night, the precious treasures were buried by the
-minister himself under the flags of his church at Kinneff;
-and there they remained till after the Restoration of 1660,
-when they were unearthed, and were presented to Charles <span class="allsmcap"><abbr title="2">II</abbr>.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_81"></a>[81]</span></span>
-by the same George Ogilvy who had formerly been Commander
-of the Castle. Ogilvy’s only reward was the title
-of Baronet, and a new coat of arms. The minister and
-his wife received no reward&mdash;not even thanks. Sir John
-Keith, the brother of the Earl Marischal, was made Earl
-of Kintore in 1677, and was the ancestor of the present
-Earl, who is the tenth to hold the dignity.</p>
-
-<p>After its surrender to Cromwell, the Castle was partially
-dismantled and reduced to ruins. What remained of
-it was, like the Bass Rock, used as a State prison for the
-Covenanters during the persecutions under Charles <span class="allsmcap"><abbr title="2">II</abbr>.</span>
-and the Duke of York. One hundred and sixty-seven men
-and women were imprisoned at one time in its ‘Whig’s
-Vault,’ or Black Hole, and nine of them speedily died of
-suffocation. Driven to despair, some twenty-five of them
-one night crept out of a window and along the face
-of the cliff, in the hope of effecting their escape. Two
-of these daring men fell over the rock and were killed.
-The others were captured, and were subjected to terrible
-cruelties.</p>
-
-<p>A few years after the forfeiture already referred to, the
-Castle was sold, and was completely dismantled. It was
-subsequently repurchased by the Keith family; and it passed
-finally into the hands of Sir Alexander Keith, Writer,
-Edinburgh, whose grandson, Sir Patrick Keith Murray of
-Ochtertyre, sold it in 1875 to Mr. Innes of Cowie, near
-Stonehaven.</p>
-
-<p>Having studied the Castle and its surroundings long
-enough to deepen our impressions of it, we got up steam
-again, and went on our way past Bervie, with its outstanding
-Craig-David; past Montrose, stretched over a level site;<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_82"></a>[82]</span>
-past Arbroath, with its tall chimneys, its spires, and its
-ancient Abbey,&mdash;all seen in the dim distance, and reposing
-peacefully in the Sabbath calm.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_082"><img src="images/i_082.jpg" alt="" width="550" height="228" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Montrose&mdash;from the Sea.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_83"></a>[83]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="X">X</h2>
-</div>
-
-<p class="center">A DAY OF REST</p>
-
-
-<div>
-  <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_083.jpg" width="90" height="85" alt=""/>
-</div>
-<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">At</span> the morning service, which was held as usual in the saloon, Dr.
-Cameron of Cape Town preached an eloquent and suggestive sermon from
-Luke xiii. 29, ‘They shall come from the east, and from the west, and
-from the north, and from the south, and shall sit down in the kingdom
-of God.’ The words, he thought, were not inappropriate to the occasion;
-for the company was gathered from many parts of this country, and some
-of its members from distant lands. It might be said, indeed, that we
-had come from the east, and from the west, from the north, and from
-the south. After pointing out that the words were Christ’s real answer
-to the question, ‘Are there few that be saved?’ and showing that His
-restrictions applied to those who sought to enter the kingdom of God in
-other ways than by the strait gate, the preacher continued:&mdash;</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p>‘My text gives us the vision of a great commonwealth or
-society, into which all worthy elements of human character are
-gathered up&mdash;a kingdom of God which is at the same time a
-kingdom of man. And they form a great multitude which no
-man can number, because fresh crowds are ever gathering into
-it. “The nations of them that are saved shall walk in the
-light of it.”</p>
-</div>
-
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_84"></a>[84]</span></p>
-
-<p>‘“They shall come from the East”&mdash;the land of immemorial
-traditions and gorgeous imaginations, of Oriental splendour and
-barbaric gold: the cradle of civilisation, and philosophy, and
-religion: where, a thousand years before Christ, mystics
-dreamed of a blessedness which could be reached only by those
-who mortified the flesh, and contemplated the unseen glories of
-the spiritual world;&mdash;the East, with its patient millions who
-have borne without complaint the yoke of a cruel bondage:
-with its frankincense and myrrh, once laid in homage at the
-cradle of a little child: with its jewelled temples raised in
-honour of gods many and lords many, and its holy plains,</p>
-
-<div class="poetry-container">
-<div class="poetry">
-  <div class="stanza">
-    <div class="verse indent0">“Over whose acres walked those blessed feet</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Which, eighteen hundred years ago, were nailed,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">For our advantage, to the bitter cross.”</div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>‘None of that splendour shall be lost: it shall receive a new
-consecration. That devotion shall find its true object: those
-dusky brows shall be decked by the hand of Him who hath
-made us kings and priests unto God. “They shall come from
-the east,” and sit down with prophets and patriarchs in the
-kingdom of God.</p>
-
-<p>‘“They shall come from the West.” The kingdom of God
-is no palace of luxury, no paradise of passive repose, where
-kings sit in solemn state, and mystics dream away their days
-in fruitless visions. It is the commonwealth of those banded
-together to do the work of the Lord, and there must be place
-in it for the practical vigour and the restless energy of the
-Western mind. The subtle Greek, who sent the arrows of his
-thought quivering into the heart of Europe: the practical
-Roman, fulfilling his great part in the commission to replenish
-and subdue the earth: the nations of modern Europe, with
-their culture, and power, and ambitions: the great Republic of
-the West, where the banner of religious freedom was unfurled,
-and great problems in politics and religion are being worked
-out&mdash;not one of these can be spared from the final association
-of men in the kingdom of God. Each has its contribution to
-bring. We are debtors to the Greek and the barbarian, to the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_85"></a>[85]</span>
-wise and the unwise: and they in their turn are debtors to the
-great world of which they form a part, and are to bring their
-glory and honour, their worth and their wisdom, into the Community
-of the Saved.</p>
-
-<p>‘“They shall come from the North.” They came from the
-north in mighty hordes&mdash;those fierce barbarians who swept down
-upon the tottering Roman Empire, and crushed out what
-remained to it of life. Province after province was invaded by
-these terrible men, the fairest tracts of Southern Europe were
-occupied by them, and are still held by their descendants.
-They shall come again, Christ says, from the north: not for
-destruction, but for help and blessing: not to ravage the
-provinces of a decaying earthly empire, but to swell the
-population and to add to the wealth of the city of God: from
-the far north, the land of the midnight sun, and the noonday
-darkness, into the city of which the Lord is the everlasting
-light, and whose sun shall no more go down for ever.</p>
-
-<p>‘“They shall come from the South”: where palm-trees cast
-their grateful shadows on the earth, and temples lift their
-stately heads to heaven. We read and speak of the luxury and
-ease of the South, where life is free from care, and its burdens
-rest very lightly on men whose hearts are bright and gay.
-But there is a place even for something of this kind in the
-final home. There must be rest and peace, as well as toil and
-energy: enjoyment, as well as action. So the men of the
-South come trooping in at the call of Christ, even as the
-Queen of the South once came to hear the wisdom of Solomon.
-From the banks of the river of Egypt, with its mighty pyramids
-and mystic learning: from the central plains and southern
-shores of the dark continent of Africa, which shall one day be
-light in the Lord: from the new world of the Southern Seas
-with their multitude of islands, and from that greater Britain
-which is throbbing with the vigorous life of what they love to
-call the Mother Country&mdash;from each and all of these they shall
-come, a goodly host, each under its own standard, but high
-over all the blood-red banner of the Captain of our Salvation.
-They shall come, a great multitude which no man can number,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_86"></a>[86]</span>
-“from the east, and from the west, from the north, and from
-the south”: and this is the processional hymn to the music of
-which they march through the gates into the city&mdash;</p>
-
-<div class="poetry-container">
-<div class="poetry">
-  <div class="stanza">
-    <div class="verse indent0">“Unto Him that loved us, and washed</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">us from our sins in His own blood,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">And hath made us kings and</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">priests unto God and His Father;</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">To Him be glory and dominion</div>
-    <div class="verse indent2">for ever and ever. Amen.”’</div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_086"><img src="images/i_086.jpg" alt="" width="550" height="230" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Entrance to Loch Torridon.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_87"></a>[87]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="XI">XI</h2>
-</div>
-
-<p class="center">HOMEWARD BOUND</p>
-
-
-<div>
-  <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_087.jpg" width="90" height="83" alt=""/>
-</div>
-<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">When</span> we returned to the deck we found ourselves
-within sight of the Bell Rock, off the
-Firth of Tay, and the old stories were retold
-of the fate of Ralph the Rover, and of the
-trials and hair-breadth ’scapes of Robert
-Stevenson and the heroes who helped him to build the famous
-lighthouse, and to carry out in an enduring
-form the humane intentions of</p>
-
-<p>“The pious Abbot of Aberbrothock.”</p>
-
-<p class="space-above2"></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_087a"><img src="images/i_087a.jpg" alt="" width="413" height="600" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>The Bell Rock Lighthouse.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>A heavy haze now began to gather on the shore. No trace of St.
-Andrews could be seen. The East Neuk of Fife, with King’s Barns on the
-one side and Crail on the other, was only dimly visible. Steaming close
-to the Isle of May, we saw very plainly its
-lighthouses, its store-houses,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_88"></a>[88]</span>
-and its ruined chapel of St. Adrian. We were reminded,
-in view of recent events, that this island is nearly
-of the same size as Heligoland; and one wonders that it has
-not been turned to as good account as the latter. Late
-in the evening we entered the Firth of Forth by the passage
-between Tantallon Castle and the Bass Rock, in order to
-obtain a view of these famous fortresses.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_088"><img src="images/i_088.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="185" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>May Island.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p class="space-above2"></p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_088a"><img src="images/i_088a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="472" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Tantallon Castle.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>Tantallon Castle, like Dunottar, stands on a detached
-rock, and is accessible from the mainland only at one point.
-It is famous in the history of Scottish wars, and especially<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_89"></a>[89]</span>
-in that of the house of Douglas. Every one is familiar with
-Scott’s graphic description of it, and of the parting scene of
-Marmion and Douglas at its gate:&mdash;</p>
-
-<div class="poetry-container">
-<div class="poetry">
-  <div class="stanza">
-    <div class="verse indent0">‘On the Earl’s cheek the flush of rage</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">O’ercame the ashen hue of age:</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Fierce he broke forth,&mdash;“And darest thou then</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">To beard the lion in his den,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent4">The Douglas in his hall?</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">And hopest thou hence unscathed to go?&mdash;</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">No, by Saint Bride of Bothwell, no!&mdash;</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Up drawbridge, grooms!&mdash;what, warder, ho!</div>
-    <div class="verse indent4">Let the portcullis fall.”&mdash;</div>
-  </div>
-  <div class="stanza">
-    <div class="verse indent0">Lord Marmion turned&mdash;well was his need&mdash;</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">And dashed the rowels in his steed,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Like arrow through the archway sprung;</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">The ponderous gate behind him rung:</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">To pass there was such scanty room,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">The bars, descending, razed his plume.’</div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-</div>
-
-<p>The buildings and the surrounding walls cover the
-entire surface of the rock. Its strength in olden times was
-proverbial, and led to the saying&mdash;</p>
-
-<div class="poetry-container">
-<div class="poetry">
-  <div class="stanza">
-    <div class="verse indent0">‘Ding doon Tantallon,</div>
-    <div class="verse indent0">Mak’ a brig to the Bass,’</div>
-  </div>
-</div>
-</div>
-
-<p class="noindent">the one achievement being deemed about as easy as the
-other. The ruins as seen from the sea do not present any
-picturesque features, but they give the impression of a place
-of great size, and practically impregnable.</p>
-
-<p>The Bass Rock (313 feet high) is the counterpart in the
-Firth of Forth of Ailsa Craig in the Firth of Clyde; and it
-is remarkable that these two rocks are the only ones in
-Scotland that are frequented by the gannet, or solan goose.
-The Bass presents a very bold outline, from whatever point
-it may be seen. Its summit slopes from north to south, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_90"></a>[90]</span>
-it is surrounded on all sides by steep cliffs, rising sheer out
-of the sea. The only possible landing-place is on a shelf of rock
-on the south side, above which are the ruins of a fortress, which
-stretched across the island from east to west.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_090"><img src="images/i_090.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="483" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>The Bass Rock.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>This fortress, as has been mentioned, was used as a State prison in
-the times of Charles <span class="allsmcap"><abbr title="2">II</abbr>.</span> and his brother
-James <span class="allsmcap"><abbr title="7">VII</abbr>.</span> Many Covenanters were immured
-there, including stout old John Blackadder, who died on the island
-after a long imprisonment. The Bass was the last stronghold in Britain
-that held out for James <span class="allsmcap"><abbr title="7">VII</abbr>.</span>, and after
-its surrender its castle was demolished.</p>
-
-<p>As we passed close to the rock the steam-whistle was
-sounded, and at once great numbers of solan geese rushed
-forth like a living whirlwind, darting and wheeling in the
-air, and filling it with their hoarse cries. The noise had
-scarce died away when we passed North Berwick&mdash;sentinelled
-by its Law, and guarded by its outposts, Craigleith and
-Fidra. The haze grew denser and denser as we sailed up
-the Firth of Forth, so much so that it was thought
-advisable to go at half-speed. Inchkeith was not visible
-until we were within less than a mile of it. One consequence
-of the changed atmospheric conditions was that a
-projected visit to the Forth Bridge had to be postponed;<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_91"></a>[91]</span>
-another was, that we failed to obtain the view of Edinburgh
-from the sea, which is considered one of the finest.</p>
-
-<p>Above Inchkeith, we were met by a tug from the shore,
-which brought out some of the representatives of the Leith
-house (James Currie and Co.) and other friends. The tug
-marshalled us the way to our anchorage; and about six
-o’clock we dropped anchor in Leith Roads, not without
-regret that the act signalised the practical termination of
-our delightful cruise.</p>
-
-<p>After dinner that evening, Sir Arthur Blackwood and
-Lord Provost Muir expressed to Sir Donald Currie, in the
-name of the guests, their hearty thanks for his splendid
-hospitality, and for the pleasure which the trip had afforded
-them in many ways. Captain Webster, his officers and
-men, were not forgotten in this thanksgiving service; and
-well they deserved this recognition, for what was a pleasure-trip
-to the guests involved no little hard work for them.
-Indeed the Captain declared that his anxieties had turned
-his hair white, but he added that the many kind things said
-of him had restored its natural colour&mdash;a kind of capillary
-blush after the blanching of care.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_091"><img src="images/i_091.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="299" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>Inchkeith.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_92"></a>[92]</span></p>
-
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="XII">XII</h2>
-</div>
-
-<p class="center">IN THE FIRTH OF FORTH</p>
-
-
-<div>
-  <img class="drop-cap" src="images/i_092.jpg" width="90" height="90" alt=""/>
-</div>
-<p class="drop-cap noindent"><span class="upper-case">Next</span> morning the mist had risen sufficiently
-to show dimly, but yet with a certain poetic
-mystery, the beauties of the unrivalled position
-of ‘the grey Metropolis of the North’
-within her cincture of hills&mdash;Salisbury
-Crags and Arthur’s Seat, Blackford Hill and the Braids,
-Corstorphine Hill and the wooded heights of Dalmeny and
-Hopetoun. In the midst, there was a dreamy indication of
-the city, with its masses of buildings following the contours
-of the undulating site, and relieved by outstanding spires,
-monuments, and tall chimneys&mdash;the whole culminating in
-the Castle Rock, which stood out like an aerial island from
-a sea of haze.</p>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_092a"><img src="images/i_092a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="174" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><span class="smcap">From Leith Roads</span></p>
-</div>
-
-<p>In the forenoon, a delightful trip was made in the
-‘Iolanthe’ up to and under the Forth Bridge; and those who
-made it were rewarded with a splendid view of that wonderful<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_93"></a>[93]</span>
-structure. As every one knows, the view of the Bridge
-from the sea is the finest that can be obtained. You see it
-as a whole. You take in at a glance all its details. You
-see each of the cantilevers separately, as well as the connecting
-girders. You see the width of the great spans and the
-height of the ‘fair-way’; and you understand why such
-vast superstructures were necessary in order to secure the
-stability of the intermediate railway line. All this is missed
-by one who crosses the Bridge in a railway carriage, unless,
-as occurred once in the experience of the writer, the western
-sun casts a perfect shadow of the Bridge on the placid bosom
-of the Firth below.</p>
-
-<p>In the course of the day, several thousands of the inhabitants
-of Edinburgh and Leith visited the ‘Dunottar Castle,’
-on the general invitation of the Castle Company, and in
-steamers provided for their accommodation. The extent
-to which the privilege was taken advantage of showed how
-highly it was appreciated.</p>
-
-<p>In response to special invitations, the Corporations of
-Edinburgh and Leith, the Merchant Company, the Chambers
-of Commerce, and other public bodies, paid a visit to the
-ship about noon, and were entertained to luncheon, to the
-number of 150, Sir Donald Currie presiding. The manner
-in which the extempore function was carried through showed
-that the resources of the ship, without extraneous aid, were
-quite equal to such an emergency. It is needless to do more
-than refer to the eloquent speeches in which the beauty of
-the ship and the enterprise of its owners were acknowledged.</p>
-
-<p>Then, at length, the harmonious party, which for ten
-days had been at home in the great ship, was scattered promiscuously
-to the East and the West, the North and the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_94"></a>[94]</span>
-South, to resume old ties of love and friendship, but not to
-forget the new ties that had been formed.</p>
-
-<p>In the evening of the same day, the great ship left
-her moorings and sailed for London, there to take her
-appointed place in the Cape and Natal Mail Service;
-and no vessel ever entered on her career with more cordial
-good wishes from troops of friends than</p>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-
-<p class="center p120">‘THE DUNOTTAR CASTLE.’</p>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_094"><img src="images/i_094.jpg" alt="" width="380" height="650" /></a>
-<p class="caption center"><em>The Tug in Leith Roads.</em></p>
-</div>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_95"></a>[95]</span>
-<div class="chapter">
-<h2 class="nobreak" id="EPILOGUE"><em>EPILOGUE</em></h2>
-</div>
-
-<div class="blockquot">
-<p><em>History, in these days, is made more rapidly than it
-is written. Before these sheets have left the Press,
-there comes the news that ‘The Dunottar Castle’ has
-‘beaten the record’ on her first Cape voyage in both
-directions.</em></p>
-
-<p><em>She made the outward passage in 16 days, 11 hours,
-54 minutes, and completed the homeward run to
-Plymouth in 16 days, 6 hours, net steaming time.
-The fastest passages previously recorded were made
-by ‘The Roslin Castle’: outward in 17 days, 10 hours,
-15 minutes, and homeward in 16 days, 16 hours,
-35 minutes. ‘The Dunottar Castle’ has thus shortened
-the passage between England and the Cape by
-nearly a whole day.</em></p>
-</div>
-<p class="right">W. S. D.</p>
-
-
-<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
-
-<div class="chapter">
-<h3 class="nobreak" id="EDINBURGH_UNIVERSITY_PRESS">EDINBURGH UNIVERSITY PRESS</h3>
-</div>
-
-<div class="figcenter">
-<a id="image_colophon"><img src="images/i_colophon.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="199" /></a>
-</div>
-
-<p class="center">T. <span class="allsmcap">AND</span> A. CONSTABLE<br />
-<em>Printers to Her Majesty</em></p>
-
-<p class="center"><abbr title="1890">MDCCCXC</abbr></p>
-
-</div>
-<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CRUISE OF THE ROYAL MAIL STEAMER DUNOTTAR CASTLE ROUND SCOTLAND ON HER TRIAL TRIP ***</div>
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