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diff --git a/old/67922-0.txt b/old/67922-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index b94fc84..0000000 --- a/old/67922-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3539 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Cottages, by Wm. Paul Gebhart - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Cottages - or, Hints on Economical Building - -Author: Wm. Paul Gebhart - -Editor: A. W. Brunner - -Release Date: April 25, 2022 [eBook #67922] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Charlene Taylor and the Online Distributed Proofreading - Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from - images generously made available by The Internet - Archive/American Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COTTAGES *** - - -[Illustration: Perspective Sketch of Bungalow (with Attic) - -(See Plate 17) - -Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.] - - - - - COTTAGES - OR - HINTS ON ECONOMICAL BUILDING - - CONTAINING - - TWENTY-FOUR PLATES OF MEDIUM AND LOW COST HOUSES, - CONTRIBUTED BY DIFFERENT NEW YORK ARCHITECTS. - - TOGETHER WITH - DESCRIPTIVE LETTERPRESS, - GIVING - PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS FOR COTTAGE BUILDING. - - COMPILED AND EDITED BY - A. W. BRUNNER, ARCH’T. - - TO WHICH IS ADDED - - A CHAPTER ON - - THE WATER SUPPLY, DRAINAGE, SEWERAGE, HEATING AND - VENTILATION, AND OTHER SANITARY QUESTIONS - RELATING TO COUNTRY HOUSES. - - BY - WM. PAUL GERHARD, C. E. - - 1884. - NEW YORK: - WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, - 6 ASTOR PLACE. - - COPYRIGHT, - 1884. - WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK. - - - - -[Illustration: Preface] - - -The aim of this little book is simply to offer a few hints and -suggestions to those about to build, or those interested in building, and -to present a series of designs of low-cost cottages. - -These designs were made, by request, by different New York architects who -have turned their attention to the subject. In view of the rapid growth -of “Art Ideas,” and the great improvement in taste that has taken place -during the last few years, it is believed that there is a demand for -dwellings reasonable in cost yet artistic and home-like. - - - - -ARCHITECTS WHOSE DESIGNS ARE CONTAINED IN THIS BOOK. - - - Mr. WM. A. BATES, 149 Broadway, New York. - Mr. CHAS. I. BERG, 152 Fifth Avenue, New York. - Mr. A. W. BRUNNER, 29 Union Square, New York. - Mr. JAS. D. HUNTER, Jr., 57 Broadway, New York. - Mess. ROSSITER & WRIGHT, 149 Broadway, New York. - Mr. THOS. TRYON, 152 Fifth Avenue, New York. - Mr. WM. B. TUTHILL, 52 Broadway, New York. - Mr. FRANK F. WARD, 59 Astor House, New York. - Mr. FRED. B. WHITE, 294 Broadway, New York. - - - - -[Illustration: Cottages - -HINTS ON ECONOMICAL BUILDING] - - -I. - -During the past few years our conception of what a country house should -be, has entirely changed. Simplicity, elegance and refinement of design -are demanded, and outward display, overloading with cheap ornamentation, -is no longer in favor. - -Naturally the more expensive houses were the first to get the benefit of -the architectural inspiration drawn largely from England. But now that -English gables and dormers have spread so widely, now that we realize the -beauty of our own colonial architecture, and that the Queen Anne craze -is subsiding, so that only its best features remain, the less ambitious -dwellings must not be left to the mercy of those builders whose ideas of -beauty are limited to scroll-saw brackets and French roofs. It is our -intention, in presenting a number of designs for country houses, to show -what can be done with simple means, and to give sketches of cottages that -may meet the wants of many who desire inexpensive homes which shall be at -the same time cosy and picturesque. - -It must be stated, however, that all we can hope to do in the compass -of this little volume is to give some hints on building and offer a few -suggestions and ideas which may be of value to those about to build. It -is by no means claimed that the drawings here given are sufficient for -constructing the houses. Proper working drawings are a much more serious -affair, and should in all cases be prepared by an architect. This is as -important for a cottage as for a mansion. - -It seems hardly necessary to enlarge upon the importance of an -architect’s services, since that is now generally recognized. Sensible -people, when they are ill, consult a physician and not an apothecary; and -when they wish to plan a house, they take the advice of an architect and -not a builder. Both apothecary and builder are of course necessary, but -they must be wisely directed or they may be dangerous indeed. - -In this “intensely new world,” as Matthew Arnold calls it, we have not -yet had time to pay much attention to our simpler kind of dwellings. One -can say but little for the majority of our cottages beyond that they give -us shelter from the sun, rain and wind. The quaint interest, the great -beauty of old European towns, are so marked, that we would do well to -remember that each of the houses in their picturesque old streets was -evidently built to suit the special tastes and requirements of its owner. -At present, the fashion is set; and, while it lasts, all cottages are -built to suit. The fashion changes and the next batch of cottages must -come up to the new standard. Now, ready-made houses, like ready-made -clothes, _may_ fit, but the conditions of house-planning are complex and -the requirements are many and varied. The house in which we live should -have some individuality, and not be a mere duplicate of our neighbor’s -dwelling. We do not care to confess that we are exactly like other -people. Of course we are not. We may not wish to be considered eccentric -or “funny,” but we do flatter ourselves that we have some ideas of our -own; so our home, if it is to be a home, must be planned just to suit our -habits. Regarding the exterior appearance, that, to a certain extent at -least, will proclaim both the disposition of the interior and its inmates. - -Now the intelligent client will of course consult a competent architect, -but being intelligent, he and Mrs. Client will first talk it all over -very carefully, and after discussing the matter thoroughly will decide -upon just what they need. When a decision has been arrived at, they will -go to Mr. Architect and tell him their wants, and he will proceed, to the -best of his ability, to solve the problem. This solution he presents in -the form of plans, elevations and sections, which is his way of showing -how he intends to fulfill the conditions imposed. But Mr. and Mrs. Client -may not find it such an easy matter to decide upon what they ought to -have. Building a house is generally a new experience, and many and vexed -are the questions that arise. Being a bright, well-informed couple, with -ideas of their own, they wisely decide to think it out for themselves and -not to tell the disciple of Sir Christopher Wren to make them “something -real pretty—you know what we want—and we’ll call to-morrow to see the -drawings.” - -No, they know better than that. It is for them to say _what_ they want; -and _how_ it is to be done, is the architect’s province. So, to help -the worthy couple in their deliberations, we will mention some of the -points to be considered in building a country home, only touching upon -them, however; for volumes might be, and indeed have been, written on the -numberless considerations that present themselves. A little thought and -time spent before commencing to build may avoid a great deal of trouble -and regret when it is too late to effect alterations. Even when the -house is in the course of erection, changes are unduly expensive, as one -deviation from the plans is likely to entail another. The superficial -knowledge people have of their own houses is often surprising, and it -would be well for Mrs. Client to examine critically her present dwelling, -while Mr. C. takes a few measurements of some of the rooms. This will -bring their ideas of dimensions to a more definite shape and greatly aid -them to fully understand a set of plans. - - -II. - -The first thing to be decided is where the cottage shall be placed. For -a castle in Spain, any picturesque spot would do, nor need we choose it -until our castle is quite complete. But for a real house, one that will -keep out the cold and keep in the heat, one that will be comfortable to -live in and presumably beautiful to look at, one that is subject to many -practical as well as artistic conditions, we will proceed to select the -prettiest piece of ground in the healthiest neighborhood we can find. - -Healthy—of course. Better not build at all than make our house the -abiding-place of malaria. So we will carefully avoid marshy or -ill-drained ground. Sandy or gravelly soil is good. Clay is bad. A -side-hill has many advantages and affords opportunity for something -picturesque. We need not fear it, for a broad trench dug deep as our -cellar, and running obliquely back of the house, will leave us high and -dry. If we are sensible rather than ambitious, we will not choose the -summit of a hill. Sooner be a little lower down on the slope, securing -shelter from the wind and a readier water supply. The question of site -is an important one, and much depends on a wise selection. Even a small -lot offers some choice, and a few feet in either direction may avoid damp -cellars and future fevers. - -But if we have a wider choice, let us exercise it well, and secure a -position where we can study nature in her varying moods and enjoy her -beauty. Let us be surrounded by meadows and flowers and trees. Trees by -all means. Not too near, or we may shut out sunlight and secure dampness -instead; but trees are good neighbors, and we owe them grateful shade in -summer and shelter from winter storms. A stately oak and a few graceful -maples, or perhaps some faithful evergreens, will take away the barren -and forlorn appearance a house often presents when standing quite alone. -A little terracing and grading, besides helping to shed the surface -water, often give the building the appearance of being well and firmly -placed. - -Care will of course be taken to see that an abundant supply of pure water -is obtainable; to decide its quality a few preliminary borings should be -made. - -Having roughly chosen the position and driven a stake in the site, we -must decide in which direction our house shall face. The living rooms -should look to the south or south-east, as they will be cooler in summer, -receiving the southern breezes, and warmer in winter—and always cheerful. -Next to a southern exposure an eastern one is best. We must consider how -the grounds shall be laid out, the approaches to the house, position of -the public road, and proximity of objectionable neighbors. Our friend -Mr. Architect will want to know all this and more too. He will ask you -from what directions come the prevailing winds, what is the character -of the scenery, and whether there is any choice of prospect, or our pet -view will stand in danger of being wasted on blank walls, or visible only -from the kitchen. Then, after telling him how much we wish to spend, he -will be in a condition intelligently to go to work and plan the house. A -thorough understanding between architect and client is most desirable. - - -III. - -“A history of house-planning is the history of civilization, one of -the best means by which we can realize the social condition and family -life of successive times,” says Stephenson in his interesting book on -House Architecture. The gradual change in the arrangement of dwellings -indicates most clearly the development of what we call civilized ideas. - -In all important houses in the Middle Ages, the Hall, which was -frequently an immense apartment, was the chief feature. To quote -Stephenson again, “It was in reality the house, and hence (in England) -country houses are still called Halls.” The ends were screened off by -wooden partitions, the kitchen at one side, the private apartments at -the other. The Hall was used as a dining-room and sitting-room, and the -household would sleep there, both tables and beds being movable. Later, -the tendency arose to have separate apartments for different purposes, -and the number of rooms in a house multiplied. In modern planning strict -privacy is essential, and each room must be accessible from the halls and -stairways. As soon as a room becomes a mere passage to another, it loses -its chief value. The arrangement of a house is, to a certain degree, -influenced by considerations of exterior effect, but use and comfort are -of prime importance. In the so-called “classic” houses, where symmetry -was imperative, convenience of plan was often sacrificed. - -A well-studied plan is characterized by compactness and the absence of -any visible make-shifts or after-thoughts. Everything fits well and seems -in its natural place. - -A rectangular house is the cheapest and best, the octagonal and circular -forms are better adapted for bays or projections only. Very irregular -and straggling plans may produce picturesque results, but are sure to be -comparatively expensive. A square house has always been a favorite with -many practical-minded people. It is such a “sensible” shape and cuts up -well into rooms. True, a given length of line, as a square, encloses -a greater area than in any other rectangular form, so we get the most -house for our materials and money. Still, we will probably find that, -after arranging our plan, considering comfort and convenience alone, -it will not result in a mathematical square; but, if it be compact and -capable of being simply roofed, we need not reproach ourselves with undue -extravagance. - -All space occupied in passages and corridors, increasing the size but not -the capacity of the building, is wasted. - -Light and air are, we know, essentials of life. Let us not forget it in -planning our house. Dark passages and stairways should not be tolerated. - -In our cities, where land is very expensive, and the houses which often -cover nearly the entire building lot are crowded closely together, many -expedients have to be adopted to render the inner rooms habitable. -Light-shafts are used, and rooms often receive only borrowed light by -means of glass doors or partitions. In country houses these methods are -inexcusable. Fresh air and the light of day should have access to every -nook and corner. - - -IV. - -In our modern houses the hall is generally a mere narrow passage -connecting the rooms, and only large enough to contain the staircase. -Lately there has been a tendency to give the hall greater prominence; -and, as many of the plans in this book show, it may be made a most -desirable sitting-room, by adding a few feet to what before was almost -waste space. It may have an open fire-place and some little nook arranged -with a seat. The stairs may be partly or wholly screened, a treatment -giving opportunities for a picturesque effect. Let us have plenty of -light on our staircase, and plan it so that even at night one is not -liable to stumble. “Winders,” that is to say, steps which radiate at -the corners, are to be avoided as much as possible, for it is easy to -slip on the narrow end. Do not try to have your stairs in a single run. -Platforms, which should be square, form a convenient rest. For ordinary -stairs the risers may be 7½ inches, and treads 10 inches. If the risers -are less, the treads must be proportionally greater. The old rule of a 6 -inch riser and 12 inch tread is almost too luxurious, and when the risers -are less than 6 inches they become actually uncomfortable and tiresome. -If newels are used, as they are in the better class of work, have the -tops rounded, and let there be no sharp angles that would be disagreeable -to the touch. - -The dining-room should have an eastern or north-eastern exposure, so that -it may receive the cheerful rays of the morning sun. A western outlook is -undesirable, for at sunset the “western waves of ebbing day” will flood -the apartment, making it necessary to close the shutters, excluding the -air and leaving the room in darkness. 11 feet in width is sufficient to -admit of chairs on both sides of the table, with space for a servant to -pass around, but a larger room is desirable. - -The kitchen should be near the dining-room. It may be in the basement, -and if the house is on a side hill this is a good arrangement, as the -kitchen may then be entirely above ground. In some of the Southern -States it is the custom to separate the kitchen entirely from the house, -thereby avoiding all the smell and heat of cooking. It is a good plan -for summer cottages to have the kitchen in a wing by itself, even if -not disconnected with the rest of the house. In a small house, where -the dining-room and kitchen must be placed next to each other, a pantry -with doors not opposite each other, between the rooms, will do much to -intercept odors and noises. - -A sitting-room or living-room should be bright and cheerful. Let it have -the benefit of any good view that the situation of the house may command. -Give it broad, generous windows, admitting plenty of light and sunshine. -Sunshine may not be good for the carpets, but you are not building the -house for them, and the health and cheerfulness of the inmates are the -first consideration. If carpets will fade we may use matting, which is -now obtainable in good designs and excellent colors. Or let us have good -honest wood floors oiled or waxed, for they need not be very expensive. -Then with a pretty rug, perhaps, in the middle of the room, we secure -greater cleanliness than is possible with a carpet, and need not be -afraid of the light of day, two points which should help to decrease our -doctors’ bills. In providing for light it is better to have one large -window than two small ones. A broad casement with a window-seat, or a -three-sided or semi-circular bay, with room for a few flowers, or perhaps -a small work-table and chairs, will be a delightful feature. - -In the pride of our heart we may want a parlor, or drawing-room, as our -English cousins would call it. - -Well, let us have it if we must, for hospitality is a virtue to be -cherished. But true hospitality consists in giving our friends what we -deem to be our best. Now a parlor that is kept for state occasions and -is such a prim, formal room, that everything in it is too awfully nice -to touch, is not a place where true friendship is likely to flourish. If -we need another apartment for our guests, let it merely be an extension -of our sitting-room. The room we occupy most will be the pleasantest in -the house, as we will naturally surround ourselves with the objects we -love best. But the spirit of cheerfulness and cosiness should pervade the -entire house, and the selection we make of books, pictures and ornaments, -will do much towards giving a room a friendly or unfriendly aspect. - -In a large country-house a separate room for a library is convenient, -also a breakfast or morning-room, and a billiard-room, is a luxury to be -enjoyed, if possible. If we can manage it, a nursery, where the children -can make a noise and have a real good time without shocking anybody’s -nerves, will be found a great comfort. Give the little ones space, where -they can romp to their hearts’ content, a large, sunny room, with broad -windows and a big fire-place, a room with nothing in it that will spoil -by contact with little hands, and you will contribute much to their -happiness. - -If we can contrive a little retreat or “den” in some out-of-the-way -corner of the house, it may be well, for, although man is a social -animal, “solitude sometimes is best society.” - -Many of us will appreciate a little sanctum entered by one door only, -where we can leave our books and papers, having the sweet satisfaction -that they will remain undisturbed. - -The bed-rooms should be specially light, airy and well ventilated. -Space must be left for the bed, a consideration which, if overlooked in -the plan, may make it necessary to put the bed in front of a window or -against a closet door. - -The arrangement of doors and windows requires particular attention, and a -little care in regard to this will contribute much to comfort. A certain -amount of wall-surface should always be left, or there will be no place -to put the furniture—a fault often found in our houses, and productive -of much discomfort. Every bed-room should have a closet, and, indeed, an -abundance of closets is necessary, it being hardly possible to have too -many of them. One for coats, in the front hall, one for linen, one for -stores, and a good-sized pantry for the kitchen, are dear to the heart of -a housekeeper. - -No house should be without a bath-room, large and conveniently located. -Care must be taken that the plumbing apparatus is not exposed to the -cold, or the pipes will freeze in winter. The matter of ventilation -and construction of the plumbing work, is ably discussed in a separate -article devoted to that and other sanitary questions. - - -V. - -Doors are generally hung according to the sweet will of the carpenter, -but there are two ways to hang a door, one so as to expose the room, -the other so as to screen it. The first may be good for the more public -rooms, but, in regard to bed-rooms, the doors must swing so that, when -partly open, they will shield the apartment from view. Closet doors -should be hung so that the closet may receive light from the nearest -window. Doors are sometimes made to swing out on stair landings or halls, -and who has not seen two doors so placed that they strike each other when -opened? It is hardly necessary to say that these methods should not be -adopted. - -The question of how to heat a house is discussed at length elsewhere, -but from the point of beauty, cheerfulness and comfort, we must enter -a plea for the open fire-place. It may be troublesome to keep clean, -although this may be obviated by an ash-shoot to the cellar. We admit -that the open fire-place is wasteful, as two-thirds of the heat goes up -the chimney. And then most of the foul air in the room goes with it, -and we have the best and surest ventilating flue yet devised. But the -cheerful appearance, the crackling of the logs, the sparkling embers, -the ruddy flames twisting themselves into fantastic shapes—are these -worth nothing to us? Contrast a roaring fire of hickory logs, blazing on -a broad brick hearth, with the dismal hole in the floor or wall covered -with a cast-iron register. The cricket on the hearth is a little out of -fashion now, and with it has gone the sense of comfort that the broad, -picturesque chimney-piece always gave. Open fire-places alone are often -insufficient in our climate, and furnaces are extremely useful for -heating the halls and the house generally; but to rely on their heat -entirely excludes one of the features which make home more home-like. -The fire-place should be in a position so as to admit of a group sitting -around it; it should not stand between two doors, for instance. A -little nook or seat may be contrived next to it, making a cosy corner -in the room. Chimney-stacks can be combined if the house be judiciously -planned, and a saving of expense effected. The plans in Plates VI, X and -XVII, show how one stack can serve three rooms on the same floor with -fire-places, and in the case of the double houses all the designs show -that this method of saving expense has been adopted. Chimneys must be -carefully built of good, hard brick, laid in cement mortar, the flues -straight and smooth and of uniform size. To allow of better arrangement -in the upper floors, the flues may be safely drawn on one side to at -least 30° from the perpendicular. There must always be at least 8 inches -of brick work when the chimney-stack comes in contact with any wood-work. - -Every house should have a cellar with stone or brick walls and cement -floors. And it is of the utmost importance that the cellar be dry. To -insure this, the greatest care should be given to the _outside_ finish -of the walls—reversing the usual practice of carefully finishing the -interior, and on the exterior allowing the rough edges of stone to -project and form little courses and channels through which the moisture -will pass. In case the cellar extends only under part of the house, the -rest of the walls should be supported upon brick piers, only filled -in between with wooden lattice, giving free access to the air, thus -preventing dampness and rotting of timbers. - -If the reader desires to study construction, or intends to superintend -the building of his own house, he cannot do better than consult Mr. T. M. -Clark’s book on “Building Superintendence.” The standard of workmanship -that it gives may be a little too high for cheap work, otherwise it is an -extremely useful volume. - - -VI. - -Planning has been called a series of compromises, and in fact we will -nearly always find it impossible to secure all we desire. Something -must be sacrificed, and the best plan is the one that fulfills the most -important requirements at the expense of the minor ones. After securing -the proper relative arrangement of rooms, their exposure may be wrong, -or the chimneys will not combine. We secure an economical combination of -chimneys and find that the doors come “all wrong,” and the staircase is -crowded to one side. Then the shape of the rooms is ugly, the veranda -seems only possible in front of the kitchen, the entrance porch faces the -north, and there is no way of getting to the cellar. - -These little difficulties overcome, we find that we cannot get up-stairs, -and even if we could, the rooms in the upper floors come just as we do -not want them, and the hall will be dark. Then we will begin all over -again. The amateur must not be disheartened if this is the result of -his first attempt to plan a house. The best and seemingly most simple -arrangement of rooms is generally the result of the most study. - -In planning, as in many other things, the simplest is often the best, -and what appears so satisfactory and looks as if it were quite the -most obvious thing to do, was probably arrived at only after much -consideration and thought. - -Irregularities in our plan may be turned to account and picturesque and -useful features result, but they must come naturally and not be forced, -or they will give the appearance of striving to be eccentric. - -It is a comparatively easy matter to plan a house which is intended -exclusively for summer or for winter occupancy. But in those sections of -the country where we have successively samples of every conceivable kind -of weather, and we wish to build a permanent residence, the difficulties -are numerous. - -During part of the year we need broad verandas, large windows and doors -so arranged that we can get a current of air through the rooms. The heat -from the kitchen distresses us, and the refrigerator is regarded with -more affection than the fireplace. In a few months the veranda only -serves to shut out the precious sunlight, and double sashes for the -windows may be desirable to keep out the cold too easily admitted by the -doors. We draw close to the hearth, piled high with blazing logs, and -rejoice that the slight heat from the kitchen chimney is not wasted on -the outer air. - -Fortunately, what keeps out the heat keeps out the cold—or rather keeps -in the heat—and walls constructed so as to keep the house warm in winter -will keep it cool in summer. - -The veranda is a particularly American feature, and should be encouraged, -not only because it is American, but because it is a great comfort and -a sensible contrivance. Let it be broad and low, to keep out the sun’s -rays; let it be large enough for plenty of chairs and a work table, and -perhaps a rattan sofa or a hammock, and during the long summer months it -will be a most delightful retreat. - -Even in winter the veranda serves to keep the wind, sleet and snow from -our windows, and so contributes a little warmth if it does rob us of some -sunlight. It can be so constructed that it may be enclosed in winter, but -it is difficult to heat, even if the cellar extended beneath it. - - -VII. - -Materials of all kinds have been used for building, but for our purpose -only stone, brick and wood are suitable, and mud, papier-maché, glass, -iron, and many others need not be considered. Stone is the favorite for -all monumental buildings, but it may be occasionally used to advantage -in low-cost country houses. If it must be brought from a distance, and -is to be cut, tooled and dressed, it will be much beyond the average -cottager’s means. But when found in the immediate vicinity and laid in -irregular courses “just as it comes,” with the corners squared off only -enough to make good joints, we shall get excellent effects without great -expense. It is well to use it only for the first story of the house, as -shown on Plate XII. If cut stone lintels and jambs are too costly, we -may use brick, either red or buff, selecting the one which harmonizes -best with the color of the stone. The doors and windows in this case will -be arched and not square-headed. Stone walls need not be very thick—18 -inches will be ample—and they need not be damp if properly furred, -leaving an airspace. - -Frequently use large stones, the entire thickness of the wall, as -“binders,” and leave the natural surface as much as possible. Then, if -the stones are well selected, we shall have a beautiful surface, whose -color, softened by that of mosses and lichens, and partly covered by the -creeping ivy, will become more beautiful and mellow with age. - -Brick is a most valuable building material, wonderfully durable, as the -remains of the old Roman buildings testify, and fire-proof, as often -demonstrated. To the minds of many, brick suggests all the ugliness -of the immense crop of buildings that has sprung up in our American -cities—buildings with wondrous painted and sanded cornices and window -caps, with a front pierced with regularly spaced square-headed openings. -But the builder and not the material is at fault, for as countless -European examples show us, brick can be used with most excellent effect. -Bricks are now made in many shapes, and good mouldings can be obtained -for cornices, belt courses, etc. - -Then terra-cotta, which is nothing more than its name implies, baked -earth, or brick in other forms, comes to our aid, and we have ornamental -panels, columns, pilasters, voussoirs and all sorts of architectural -finery. For small cottages we may use brick laid in red mortar, combining -it with wood, and perhaps some of the simpler mouldings, with a -terra-cotta panel or two, to give character to the design. - -Wood is the material that will commend itself, as being the cheapest for -building country houses, needing only a light foundation and being easily -handled. The old “half timbered” houses give us suggestions for a most -picturesque treatment. In these buildings the frame is exposed and filled -in with brick or stucco, producing an excellent effect. In the north of -France, where rain is abundant, the exposed wood is sometimes covered -with slate. This method of construction is adapted to our climate, but -brick is better for filling in than plaster or stucco, which is likely -to be affected by our severe frosts. Clapboards and shingles are both -excellent. The shingles may be cut in different shapes, or irregularly -laid, giving a variety of surface. Tiles, which are more durable but more -expensive, may be substituted. Battened houses, that is, houses faced -with vertical boards, the joints of which are covered by narrow strips of -wood or “battens,” are not recommended. - - -VIII. - -The first four plates in this book show designs for the simplest kind -of cottages. Strict economy has been observed, and the arrangement is -as compact as possible, no space being wasted. The first has two rooms -on a floor—the living-room containing the stairs. The roof is unbroken, -overhanging enough to cover the bay, and merely extending to form the -porch. Plates II, III and IV show a separate hall for the stairs, and -closets and pantry are provided. In one case the upper floor contains -two large rooms, in the others, four smaller chambers. Plate III shows -the kitchen and living-room separated by a pantry with two doors, and -in the next design, communication between these rooms is had through -the hall, an arrangement quite suitable for such a small house. Nothing -could be plainer, or more straight-forward, than the plans and exterior -treatment of these four cottages, and the result is interesting in -showing that even the simplest house may be planned with some reference -to comfort, and a pleasing exterior expression attained without the least -ornamentation. - -Plates V, VI and VII, give designs for slightly larger cottages, with -three rooms on the first floor. The roofs are boldly treated, and in -Plate V we see the picturesque effect obtained by an exterior chimney. -This design also shows an effective treatment of windows in the -sitting-room, and a broad low veranda covered by a continuation of the -main roof. Designs VI and VII are two six-room cottages very compactly -planned; the exteriors show clapboards on the first-story, and shingles -above. - -Plate VIII gives a cottage without a kitchen (there is space for it -if desired), which may be built in connection with a hotel. This is -becoming a favorite way of living during the summer, the inmates of the -cottage taking their meals at the hotel, and thus much of the trouble of -housekeeping is avoided. Several of the plans in this book could be used -in a similar way; the space for kitchen devoted to other uses or omitted -entirely. In this plan the two rooms on the first floor open into each -other, making practically one large airy apartment, which, with the shady -veranda in front, is an arrangement well adapted for warm weather. - -In Plate IX we have a small seven-room house. The sitting-room has a -large fire-place with seats at the side, screened by an arch or transom, -and making a pleasant little nook. - -Plate X is a design of a picturesque cottage which shows in plan a nearly -square hall with a fire-place, opening into a broad piazza. At a little -extra expense the small bed-room on the second floor could be made -wider, or a bath-room added to advantage. - -The plan of Plate XI provides an entrance hall or vestibule, which will -be of special use if the house is occupied in winter. The side door opens -into the end of the main hall, and the arrangement of rooms is well -studied. The overhanging gables have a bold effect, and the materials -used are the same as in nearly all the preceding designs. - -Plate XII gives plans and elevations for a house, the first story -of which is to be built of stone—the second of wood. The stone is -irregularly laid, the rough surface contrasting well with the shingles -above. The plan provides for six good-sized rooms with plenty of closets. - -In Plate XIII we have a house planned so that the two main rooms on each -floor are exposed on three sides, an arrangement which, if the size and -shape of the lot permits, is good for a summer residence. The treatment -of exterior also indicates this use. - -Plate XIV gives a design for a seven-room cottage, with a wide hall and -a bath-room. The kitchen is conveniently placed, both in regard to the -dining-room and front door. The balcony in the second story adds to the -exterior effect by giving more shadow to the front. - -Plate XV is a design for a sea-side cottage. The hall is so arranged that -the stairs are screened, thus making a little vestibule. The dining-room -and parlor are only divided by an arch, and may be separated by a -portière or thrown into one large room, while the veranda gives the shade -so desirable at the sea-shore. - -Plate XVI shows a picturesque house broadly treated. The second story -overhangs the first, covering the piazza. The rooms are large and of good -proportion, and each bed-room has its closet. - -Bungalows, as the one-story houses used in India are called, seem adapted -to some parts of America, particularly as summer cottages. - -Plate XVII and the frontispiece show a house which will commend itself to -those who dislike going up and down stairs. This plan provides a hall, -dining-room and kitchen, each with its fire-place and closet, and three -bed-rooms. The door of the bath-room and that of the bed-room opposite -are misplaced, and should open into the corridor. There is a small -stairway to the attic, where there is space for dormitories, if desired. -The construction of this sort of house is so simple, and the foundation -may be so light, that it will cost but a trifle more than if the rooms -were arranged in the ordinary way. The bungalow here given is very simply -treated, the roof being only broken for the outlook from the attic, and -extending to cover the veranda. - -Plate XVIII shows a house suitable for an ordinary “fifty-foot suburban -lot.” The entrance hall is divided by an arch and book-cases, making -an agreeable sitting-room or library. The second story contains three -bed-rooms and a bath-room. There are accommodations in the attic for -servants. - -Plate XIX is a design for a cottage on a side hill, with the kitchen in -the basement. The projection of the stairs in the main hall gives place -for a seat opposite the fire-place, and may be made a cosy little corner. -The dining-room, hall and sitting-room, open into each other. - -The last four Plates are designs for double or “semi-detached” houses. -If, instead of building single houses, two persons will combine, -adopting some arrangement such as these designs show, they will effect -a considerable saving of expense. The houses, although receiving light -and air only on three sides, are bright and comfortable. Privacy is not -destroyed, as the entrance porches are separated, and windows placed so -as to avoid looking from one house to the other. - -The exterior treatment in Designs XX and XXI seems to indicate more -clearly than the others that they are double houses, while Nos. XXII -and XXIII, though not concealing this fact, have more the air of large -single houses. This is a nice question of “expression” which our readers -may decide for themselves. - -These drawings show different architects’ conceptions of what small and -medium-sized cottages should be. They differ greatly from each other, -both in plan and exterior design, but the general expression seems to -be much the same. They are not pretentious, and no ornament exists for -its own sake. Chimneys and roofs are boldly and frankly treated, and a -certain breadth and hospitality are expressed by nearly all. Only a few -of their special features have been mentioned, a fuller description being -deemed unnecessary. - - -IX. - -It will be noticed in all these designs that whatever grace or charm -they may have is the result of the simplest treatment. A building should -be logically designed, and the exterior be the natural expression of -the plan. This is what is meant by Truth in Architecture. But just how -much need be expressed, is not always clear. A proper regard for our -architectural morals does not require us to exhibit to the passer-by -every detail of construction and arrangement. Only what _is_ shown must -be _true_. A building ought at least to declare its purpose, which should -be recognizable at a glance. But a house may well express more than the -fact that it is a house. It may have a pretentious and showy appearance, -or be modest and unassuming. It may look cheerful and hospitable, or cold -and forbidding. - -Now, for a cottage to be pretentious is in bad taste. It need not be -so humble as to nestle among the violets, but it can assert itself -sufficiently without being decked with tawdry ornaments, or the vanity of -cupola or towers. - -On the other hand, it would be equally false for a large mansion which -should have an air of dignity and magnificence to attempt to assume a -simple, rustic appearance. Indeed, Southey informs us that the devil’s -“favorite sin is the pride that apes humility.” Proportion—that is, the -relation of parts to each other and to the whole, is the most important -element of beauty in architecture. This has been the subject of much -discussion and controversy. The parts of a building having a certain -mathematical relation to each other, numerous attempts have been made -to formulate this and establish reliable rules for the guidance of the -designer. All the theories, however, are conflicting; notwithstanding -that most of them are proved by their authors to apply directly to the -Parthenon, which - - “Earth proudly wears... - As the best gem in her zone.” - -It seems that the sense of proportion, like an eye for color or an ear -for music, is an innate quality possessed by some and lacked by others; -and that it is as impossible to design a building as to make a musical -composition by mathematical rules. - -Beauty alone is not sufficient to constitute architectural excellence. -Architecture is the art of building, and utility is the first -consideration. If the architect be an artist, endowed with an -appreciation of form and color, he will so combine the materials at his -command that he will produce a building at once useful and beautiful. -Exterior ornament should be sparingly used on cottages, and, if at all, -should be so employed as to emphasize the design. But it seems more -sensible in an economical dwelling to keep the exterior quite simple. -While we should not inflict our neighbors with an ugly house, we will not -be open to the charge of selfishness if we choose the extravagance of -a daintily carved oak mantel in our sitting-room to that of ornamented -brackets and posts on the veranda. - - -X. - -In these designs for cottages it will be observed that there has been no -attempt made to adhere to any historical style. And this, we believe, -shows a greater appreciation of the beauties of architectural styles than -if they had been misapplied and tortured into what once was known as -“Rural Gothic” or “Italian.” - -After defining architecture to be “the material expression of the wants, -faculties, and the sentiments of the age in which it is created,” Owen -Jones, in his “Grammar of Ornament,” said that “Style in architecture -is the peculiar form that expression takes under the influence of -climate and the material at hand.” Accepting this definition, we see -the absurdity of copying buildings erected under totally different -conditions from ours. Although an Italian villa is more adaptable to our -wants than a Greek temple (and our country-houses have often copied both -with lamentable results) it does not readily submit to be Americanized. -Italy may give us suggestions, and France, England and Germany offer -us many and valuable ones, but in adapting them to our country houses -we must show discrimination. And our own wants and sentiments, if well -and naturally expressed, take forms that are not displeasing, even if -Corinthian columns and Gothic arches are absent. - -The question of color is an important one, as an unfortunate selection -may spoil the (otherwise) prettiest house. We have discovered that -considerations of cleanliness do not require us to paint our houses -white, which, even with the addition of green shutters, is hardly -satisfactory. The staring, conspicuous effect of these white houses is -what we should avoid, and the tints we choose must be those that will -blend harmoniously with the surrounding landscape. The pearly gray that -shingles become after exposure to the atmosphere has a very good effect -if relieved by contrast with some other color. A good treatment is to -give the house a coat of crude petroleum, and, if desired, a transparent -stain may be mixed with it which will show the grain of the wood. A range -of soft yellows, reds and browns, may be so obtained. Messrs. Rossiter -and Wright have published a book entitled “Modern House Painting,” which -gives excellent directions and examples. - - -XI. - -If we strive to give to the exterior of our houses a pleasing appearance, -how much more reason is there to beautify the interior. - -It has been claimed that pretty and comfortable homes exert a decided -moral influence. Be this as it may, we are all interested in making our -homes attractive. And there is no reason why they should not be so. We -are apt to think that costly things must be beautiful, but this is by -no means true, nor is it true that inexpensive objects must be ugly. -The same materials used in the construction and decoration of an ugly -apartment might, with the exercise of a little taste, be so employed that -a graceful combination result. - -Low ceilings give an air of comfort, while very high ones have a cold and -barren effect, and increase the cost of the house. - -The ventilation of a room should be quite independent of the height -of its ceiling, that is to say, a room with a low ceiling may be -well ventilated, and one with a high ceiling may gain nothing by the -extra height but greater facilities for retaining poisonous gases and -foul air. Gwilt gives as a rule that the height of the ceiling of a -rectangular room should be the same as the width of the room; but since -the apartments on a floor are of unequal size and the ceiling commonly -of the same height throughout, no such proportion can be kept. Nor is it -necessary for a small cottage. From 9 to 10 feet is ample for the first -story rooms. - -The proportion of a room may be modified by the treatment of its walls. -Vertical lines give an appearance of greater height, and horizontal -lines make a room look lower. Accordingly, the division of a wall into -horizontal bands by means of the dado and frieze, now in such favor, has -a tendency to make a room look lower than it really is. This division, -however, is a good one. The dado is simply a substitute of a cheaper -material for a paneled wainscot of wood. The wooden base board and -chair-rail should be retained, as they serve to protect the wall. A broad -frieze is an excellent decorative feature. It should be separated from -the wall surface by a picture-moulding from which the pictures will hang. - -The excavations at Pompeii have shown many beautiful examples of -harmonious wall decoration. The walls are divided by dado and frieze, the -dado being generally darker and the frieze lighter, than the intermediate -surface. We will do well to follow this arrangement even if we do not -adopt the Pompeian colors. - -If the plaster is finished with a rough surface (sand finish) it takes -color well, and makes a satisfactory wall. Within the last few years, -wall-papers have been manufactured which are good in design and low in -cost. Many of them, printed in two tones of the same color, are delicate, -and make good backgrounds for pictures. Being delicate and quiet does not -necessarily mean that the paper must be gray and colorless. It may have -a decided color, and still harmonize well with the pictures and other -objects in the room. - -Dark red matting used for a dado gives a most satisfactory effect. It may -be continuous or divided in panels by narrow strips of wood. - -Cartridge or ingrain-paper is now made in excellent colors, and is a good -substitute for printed wall-papers. To break the flat surface a stencil -pattern may be traced on it, or this may be done directly on the plaster, -which must first be colored. - -A good ceiling is made of simple felting-paper in lieu of plaster; the -paper divided into small panels by narrow beaded strips of wood. - -Lincrusta-Walton is a valuable material for some choice bit of decoration. - -For door and window trims and other interior woodwork, white pine is -recommended, as it is the cheapest, and, if properly finished, looks very -well. - -It may be stained, if too light—the transparent stains merely darken the -wood and do not conceal the natural grain. Under no circumstances try to -imitate oak or walnut by graining. Such shams deceive no one and are in -the worst taste. If we use paint for interior work let us use it frankly, -carefully selecting the color, and avoiding a shiny surface, a flatted or -dull finish being preferable. - -We have a great variety of wood to choose from, if not limited in -expense, but “hard woods,” such as cherry, oak, mahogany, etc., not only -are expensive in themselves, but require more labor. Ash is the cheapest -of them. If some of the patent “fillers” are used, an excellent surface -may be given to the wood, but these require to be finished with shellac, -and carefully rubbed down. For cheap work, two coats of boiled oil may be -used; or, if a polished surface is desired, varnish may be substituted. - -Our fire-places may be of brick laid in red mortar, with wooden shelves, -and perhaps lightly framed with wood. Tiles are appropriate for facings -and hearth, as they are not affected by the heat. Let our windows be -large and extend well up to the ceiling. Have window-seats if we can, and -dispense with interior doors as much as possible. A curtain of some soft -material (it need not be expensive) will look better than a six-panel -door, and it may be pushed to one side, while the door is irrepressible. -Let us make our hall a bright, cheerful apartment, that may aid us to -“welcome the coming, speed the parting, guest.” - - -XII. - -The cost of building depends so largely upon varying circumstances that -it is impossible to give precise estimates without exact information upon -such points as the amount of excavation needed, facilities for obtaining -stone for foundation, etc. Then the prices of labor and materials vary -greatly in different localities, so the figures here given can only be -approximately correct. Cottage No. I could be built as shown on plan, -for $500. A cellar under it would make it cost about $100 more. Cottages -Nos. II, III and IV would cost from $600 to $1000. Those shown in plates -VI, VII, IX, X, and others of similar character and size may be estimated -to cost from $2.50 to $3.00 per square ft. That is to say, if, as in -Fig. IX, the extreme exterior dimensions are 21 ft. by 29 ft., the house -covers 609 square ft., and would cost from $1522 to $1827. Cottage No. -XIV could be built for from $3000 to $3500. - -These prices are given as guides, and may serve the reader as a standard -to follow. If plain interior finish is adopted, these figures may be -relied upon for ordinary cases. Some sites, however, present unexpected -difficulties, and some localities are peculiarly favored. Then the style -of interior finish adopted affects the cost greatly, and the expense may -be easily doubled by the use of elaborate cabinet work. - -A brick house of the same capacity as a wooden one, will cost nearly 20 -per cent. more. Rubble stone, if easily obtained, costs about as much as -brick. - -In building double houses, we may save from 10 to 15 per cent. on the -cost of the houses singly. - -Good materials and workmanship are always the cheapest in the end, and it -is by no means advisable to economize too closely on that score. There -can be no comfort in a house that constantly needs repairs; and the money -spent in building a home, carefully and substantially constructed, will -never be regretted. - - - - -[Illustration: SANITARY QUESTIONS] - -_By WM. PAUL GERHARD, C. E._ - - -In selecting a site, a loose, porous =soil= is, for obvious reasons, -preferable to ground liable to be damp or wet. Pure, dry sand, and -gravel, make excellent sites for building purposes. Next to these, rocky -soils may be chosen, and are usually quite healthy. Clay soils, which are -more or less impervious to water, and therefore always damp and chilly, -and alluvial lands, must not be chosen as a site for dwellings. But, -above all, avoid _made_ land. Although this refers more particularly to -city lots, it is not uncommon, even in the suburbs of large cities, to -find low ground filled with garbage, rubbish, and decaying vegetable and -animal debris, which are prime causes of impure air in dwellings. Ground -which has not before been built upon is, undoubtedly, preferable to sites -of old, torn-down buildings. If the latter must be taken, a detailed and -thorough examination should be made with respect to the purity of the -soil. Some lots are literally honey-combed with cesspools, privy-holes, -or have a net-work of broken drains full of accumulated filth, and the -soil is at times found to be contaminated from liquid house refuse, or -by soakage from barn-yards, stables, etc. A well should never be sunk -through such formerly occupied ground. It is quite important to ascertain -by preliminary borings, the level of the ground water, for a high -water level means continuous dampness, and must be abated by thorough -under-drainage. - -By =underdrainage= of a site, we effect a permanent lowering of the -ground water, and thus secure to the proposed dwelling, dry foundation -walls, and absence of dampness from the house interior. To remove such -subsoil water, small porous, round tile-drains, 1¼ inches in diameter, -should be laid with open joints at least two feet below the level of the -cellar floor. The general arrangement of the lines may vary somewhat -in each case, but ordinarily the branch drains can be laid in parallel -lines, their distance varying from ten to twenty-five feet, according to -the amount of water to be removed. Wherever springs are found, special -lines may be required. The trenches should be refilled with broken stones -or coarse gravel. All branch pipes should be collected in one main pipe, -for which a 2 inch tile pipe will answer in most cases. This main drain -should be continued with proper fall to a ditch, ravine or water course. -There must never be any connection between such subsoil drains and any -foul-water drain, sewer, or with a cesspool or sewage tank. - -If the dwelling stands on a hill-side, exposed to subsoil water flowing -over an impervious stratum, the foundation walls of the house nearest -to the hill are very apt to be wet, often even so much as to have the -subsoil water percolate through the cellar walls. In this case, the -subterranean water vein should be cut off by a blind drain, _i.e._ a -trench dug above the house sufficiently deep and carried with proper fall -diagonally across the lot. The trench to be filled with broken stones and -to be carried down the hill to some outlet, either an open ditch or a -brook. - -Some attention should be paid to the proper _removal of surface water_. -In the case of suburban cottages the rain falling upon the roof is almost -always collected and stored for use in underground cisterns. Occasionally -a public water supply is available, the cistern is omitted, and the roof -water is allowed to run away on the surface, and partly soak into the -ground, thereby tending to keep the foundation walls damp and unhealthy. -To avoid this evil, the grounds surrounding the house must be properly -graded, in order to shed the water off from the walls. At a good distance -from the house the surface water may sometimes be permitted to soak away -into the ground, the vegetation helping to absorb a part of it. In other -cases, however, surface channels or gutters must be arranged, especially -with clay soils. - -Besides water, the upper layers of the soil always contain =ground air=, -which has a tendency to rise into the dwelling, especially in winter when -our heated dwellings act as huge chimneys, drawing up large quantities -of air from the ground beneath them. Such exhalations, which consist in -the case of a pure soil of carbonic acid and watery vapor, and which -in the case of a contaminated soil are largely mixed with gases of -decomposing organic matter, should be rigidly excluded from the interior -of houses. For this reason, dwellings without a cellar should never be -placed immediately on the ground, but must be raised on piers, arches or -posts sufficiently to allow of a large air space and perfect circulation -between the surface and the floor beams. This will, at the same time, -prevent the quick rotting of the joists and floor-boards. To prevent -the rapid cooling of the basement floor this should be laid double with -an intermediate space, filled with a non-conducting material, such as -mineral wool. - -It is more expensive, but always preferable, to excavate for a =cellar= -and to build the house on strong, well made foundation walls. The floor -of the cellar must be made perfectly tight against ground water and -ground air. There are different ways of doing this. One of the best -methods is the following: cover the surface of the cellar, which has -previously been levelled, with a layer of concrete, at least four inches, -better six inches deep. Next put on a thin layer (about ¼ inch) of hot, -pure asphaltum, and on top of this a finish of Portland cement. - -The cellar walls must always be made impervious to dampness. As usually -built, they are extremely porous, and moisture rises in them by contact -with the adjoining ground and by capillary attraction. The best plan to -prevent =dampness of walls= is to have a complete cut-off between the -foundation walls and the ground, by an open area, carried completely -round the building, and well drained and ventilated. This, however, is -expensive, and a similar isolation may be accomplished by building double -or hollow walls, the space between inner and outer walls being well -aired. The foundation walls should be placed upon a bed of concrete, and -must be covered on their outside with a layer of asphaltum to a point -somewhat above the level of the ground. It is very important to provide, -at this height in the wall, a horizontal isolating or damp proof course, -which may consist of a thick layer of asphaltum, or of slate, bedded in -cement, or of layers of tarred roofing paper, or else of hollow tiles. -The sill and the floor joists must, of course, be kept above the damp -proof course. The surface water may be kept away from the outer walls by -filling the space next to the wall, to a depth well below the foundation -walls, with broken stones or gravel. Sometimes a tile drain is placed -below the foot course to carry off any accumulation of percolating storm -water. This trench may be covered at the top with a stone slab to shed -off surface water. - -Most so-called “practical” builders will probably sneer at these -suggestions. I can assure those of my readers who care to build a -_healthy_ home, that the money paid for such preventive measures will -be spent for an excellent purpose. The proper construction of healthy -foundation walls, and of a cellar, dry and cheerful at all times, is the -basis of sanitation in cottage-building. This much accomplished, all -remaining requirements are not so difficult to fulfill. - -Next to dryness, the most desirable features of a good cellar are, that -it is well lighted and perfectly ventilated. Good light in a cellar -helps much toward its being kept in a proper condition. As regards -the necessity of cellar ventilation, remember that your floors will -necessarily have some crevices or shrinkage holes, and through these -the cellar air will rise and mingle with the atmosphere of your living -and sleeping rooms. Above all other things, do not allow your cellar to -be made a sort of gigantic poke-hole for rags, cast-off clothing, old -shoes, tin-cans, rotten vegetables, garbage, swill or other offensive -matters. See that it is kept at all times free from rats and vermin. Do -not tolerate any opening in the cellar floor for the removal of surplus -water into foul water drains. Such opening, even if trapped, will be sure -to act at times as an inlet for unwelcome sewer air. - - * * * * * - -The =water supply= of cottages is derived either from wells, cisterns -or springs. Rarely do we find in the case of scattered houses a public -supply, delivering water under pressure. - -A common sight in the country is a =well= located close to or adjoining -a leaching cesspool or a privy. Such wells are usually sunk to but a -limited depth, and the liquid sewage from cesspools soaks through the -porous subsoil down to the subterranean water stratum. The danger to -health from drinking impure water is now universally acknowledged. -Polluted well water is rendered more dangerous by the fact that it often -has a bright, sparkling and clear appearance and has, in summer time, a -low temperature, making it particularly agreeable to drink. Nothing but a -chemical analysis or the microscope reveals its unwholesome condition. It -is extremely difficult to fix a limit of minimum distance between a well -and a cesspool, or privy, as so many different factors have to be taken -into consideration. In rocky ground, especially, there may exist hidden -fissures carrying the contents of cesspools a much greater distance than -is generally expected. - -If there is no leaching cesspool, no privy, nor other cause of soil -contamination, in the neighborhood, a well may safely be used. If -cesspools must be kept on or near your, or the neighbor’s, lot, or if the -ground has previously been saturated with filth, do not sink a well. - -A properly built well should have walls made tight and impervious from -the level of the ground-water up to the surface, in order to prevent -any filtration from the soil surrounding the well. The surface of the -ground should be raised somewhat at the well, and graded so as to pitch -in all directions away from the well. This will prevent the entrance -of surface-washings. The opening of the well must be _thoroughly well -covered_, in order to prevent the falling into the well of vermin and -smaller animals, or the washing in of decaying vegetable or organic -matter. The following mode of building a well has many advantages over -the ordinary way: Excavate down to the water-level, then arch the well -over with stones, and place the suction-pipe into the well. Next refill -with loose stones, on top of these place coarse gravel, sand, and finally -clean earth. Carry the pipe above ground to the suction-pump. A thus -built well is very safe against introduction of foreign matter. - -The best wells are probably what are called “driven wells” or -“Abyssinian” wells. They are constructed as follows: A wrought-iron tube, -1½ to 2 inches diameter, having at its end a steel point perforated with -numerous holes, is driven into the ground, which must, of course, be free -from stones or boulders, until the ground water is reached. If necessary, -several lengths of tubing are screwed together by means of couplings. -The upper end of the tube is attached to the pump, and continued suction -will soon wash away the sand at the lower end of the pipe, and furnish a -stream of clear water. - -Wherever a well cannot be sunk, cottages should be supplied with rain -water collected from the roof and stored either in tanks placed in -the garret, or else in underground =cisterns=. The latter keep the -temperature of the water moderately low throughout the year. Most people, -unaccustomed to drink rain water, object to it on account of its flat -taste, but if it is carefully collected, properly stored, boiled before -use, filtered, cooled with ice and well aerated, it makes an exceedingly -wholesome and agreeable drink. - -To determine the amount of rain water available from a certain roof, -ascertain the amount of surface of its horizontal projection, and -multiply this by the annual rainfall in feet and decimals of a foot. -The total amount in cubic feet must be divided by two, to allow for -unavoidable loss through evaporation and for wasted, impure roof -washings. It is easy to arrive at a proper size for the cistern, if the -available amount of water is known. - -In collecting roof water, it is important to allow the first washings -from the roof, which always contain more or less filth in the shape of -dust, horse dung from the street, excrements of birds, leaves from trees, -etc., to run off on the surface. This may readily be accomplished by -cut-offs on the rain water pipes, to be worked by hand or arranged to -act automatically. The best roofing surface for collecting rain water -is slate, and next to this shingles. Underground cisterns are usually -built circular in shape, of hard-burnt brick, laid in hydraulic cement. -The walls of the cistern must be made perfectly watertight, not only to -prevent leakage from it to the outside, but also to prevent the entrance -into it of ground water. If an overflow pipe is provided, it should -under no circumstances whatever communicate with any drain or sewer, -or discharge into a cesspool. As soon as delivered into the cistern, -the water must be kept scrupulously clean, and any possible source of -pollution should be removed. It is a good plan to build into the cistern -a filtering chamber to remove the coarser impurities in the water. -Cisterns should be frequently inspected, emptied and cleaned; the opening -at the top must be closed by a solid cover, to prevent the falling in -of vermin, mice, rats, etc., and to guard against contamination by -surface-washings. - -Occasionally a dwelling-house is supplied from a distant =spring=, by a -gravitation supply in case the spring is near a hill-top, or by means of -a hydraulic ram if the spring is situated at a lower level than the house. - -If the dwelling draws its supply from a well or a cistern, the water -is usually lifted by means of suction-pumps, generally located, for -convenience’s sake, inside the house, at the kitchen sink. If the cottage -has any plumbing fixtures on the upper floor, it becomes necessary to -force water by a lift and force-pump to a small reservoir or tank under -the roof, from which it is distributed to the fixtures under a constant -head of pressure. Such =water tanks= should be made of cast iron well -painted, or of wrought iron well protected against rust. Slate tanks are -also very good. Cheaper than either of these are wooden tanks. Wooden -tanks are often lined with tinned copper; lead, zinc or galvanized iron -linings are undesirable. Care must be taken not to run the overflow of -a tank into any soil or drain pipe. The simplest way of disposing of it -is to run it into the gutter of the roof. If this is not feasible run it -down to the kitchen sink, and make it serve as a tell-tale for use with -the force-pump at the kitchen sink. - -=Pipes for conveying water= to the plumbing fixtures may be of drawn -lead, or tin-lined lead, or of block tin. Wrought iron is used -extensively, either plain or galvanized or enamelled; rubber-coated, -glass-lined and tin-lined wrought-iron pipes are also made, but are too -expensive for ordinary use. - -Drawn lead pipe is a material possessing many merits, and hence it is -used extensively. It should be remembered, however, that soft water -attacks lead, and a sufficient amount of lead is occasionally dissolved -to cause dangerous poisoning of persons drinking water from such pipes. -It is a good precaution in the case of new pipes to allow the water to -run for a while, especially if it has been standing in the pipes over -night. Tin-lined pipes, although more expensive, are much safer for use, -but great care must be taken in making joints in such pipe, lest the tin -be removed at the joints. Tin-lined as well as block tin pipes should -always be used as suction-pipes in wells and cisterns in preference to -ordinary lead pipes. - -Plain wrought-iron pipes rust quickly, especially if not constantly kept -full of water; water conveyed through them is apt to make iron stains in -the washing. A further disadvantage is the frequent choking up of the -smaller sizes through rust. Pipes coated with some kind of enamel are -better and safer, provided care is taken in making the joints properly. -Plain wrought-iron pipes, made rustless by the Bower-Barff process, have -lately been used and promise to show good results. Wrought-iron pipes are -largely used, protected with a coating of zinc, and such “galvanized” -pipes may be safely used, for, although water dissolves and is often -found to contain salts of zinc, which are poisonous in large amounts, -dilution makes them practically harmless. A more serious objection to -galvanized pipes may be the fact that the zinc coating, unless applied -with great care, soon wears off and ceases to protect the pipe against -rust. Copper tubes, lined with tin, are occasionally used, but are -expensive and troublesome to put up. In some of the Eastern States -drawn seamless brass tubes are used for hot-water pipes. Their only -advantage over lead would seem to be their neater appearance and less -liability to sag, although changes of temperature affect brass pipes by -expansion and contraction, causing leaky joints. Brass pipes, if used for -drinking-water, should be tinned on the inside. - -It is important to arrange all water-pipes so that they can be -completely drained or emptied, when the supply is shut off. Pipes -running on outside walls should be suitably protected against frost. It -is recommended, even in the case of the smallest buildings, to have a -plan, showing the exact size, material and location of all water pipes, -stop-cocks, faucets, cisterns, etc. All pipes should be kept accessible, -and, wherever possible, in sight. - -The supply for drinking purposes is often purified by means of -=domestic filtration=. This is especially desirable with cistern water. -Domestic filters should act not only as strainers by removing suspended -impurities, but they ought also to act chemically by oxidizing a part -or all of the dissolved organic matter. Various materials are used for -domestic filters, amongst them being sand, sponge, flannel, cotton, -animal charcoal and spongy iron. Nothing is more erroneous than the -supposition that a filter, once started, will continue to act, without -further attention, forever. Whatever the filtering material may be, it -should be frequently cleaned and aerated, and renewed from time to time. -It must, therefore, always be easily accessible. Most small filters, to -be screwed to faucets on the supply pipe, are made reversible, and if -this operation is regularly performed, they work quite well, although -their action is of necessity largely mechanical. Larger filters are -connected by means of a hose or a pipe with the pressure supply, and -these, too, answer well, provided they have an arrangement for periodical -reversing of the direction of the filtering current. Other filters -are portable vessels to be filled by hand. Filters are also placed in -cisterns, or at the end of the suction pipe in wells or cisterns. A good -plan is to build into the cistern a partition wall, establishing a small -chamber, in which the suction pipe is placed. The dividing wall is built -with courses of brick, some of which, being laid dry, act as strainers. -This arrangement, it need hardly be said, wants periodical cleaning as -much as any of the household filters. - - * * * * * - -A serious and all-important matter is the question of =removal and -disposal of the household wastes=. We will assume, as is the case in -ninety-nine out of every hundred isolated country dwellings, that there -are no sewers in the streets, and that a discharge into a large creek or -stream, or into the sea, is not feasible. - -The common practice is to build a _leaching_ =cesspool=, if the soil is -at all porous. All the liquid wastes from the household are carried by -a drain to this cesspool, and allowed to soak away into the soil, while -the cesspool, and the spaces between its wall-stones, are gradually -filling up with the more solid matter, the grease, etc., which undergo -a slow process of decomposition, creating a noxious and disagreeable -accumulation of gases. The cesspool is usually unventilated, and the only -exit for gases is through the drain pipe, up the house pipes, and through -defective joints and equally defective traps into the house. - -Occasionally two cesspools are used, one for the kitchen sink waste, -the other for soil and bath-room waste water. The conditions of these -cesspools after some use will not differ materially from each other, and -such an arrangement is, if anything, more of a nuisance than the one -first-mentioned. - -The smaller the house lot, the greater is the danger from a cesspool. No -leaching cesspool should ever be placed nearer to a dwelling than one -hundred feet. To locate such a cesspool close to the well, or even a -cistern, is a practice which should be forbidden by law. - -A cesspool or sewage tank, if required, should be built _thoroughly -tight_, tighter even, if this were possible, than a cistern. It should -be of moderate dimensions, preferably circular in shape, built with -hard-burnt brick, laid in hydraulic cement, and the tank must be well -rendered inside and outside with pure Portland cement. The tank should be -arched over and covered with an iron cover. It must be emptied, cleaned -and disinfected at frequent intervals, and it should be at all times -well ventilated, by a pipe, carried up to a good height above ground. -If possible, the cesspool should not be located in a direction from the -house of the prevailing winds. - -The liquid contents of a sewage-tank may with advantage be used to -sprinkle and irrigate a lawn, or a kitchen garden, or shrubbery, or a -vine trellis, while the solids, removed at _frequent_ intervals, may be -dug as fertilizers into the ground. If this arrangement is adopted I -usually advise having two chambers in the cesspool; the smaller one for -retaining the solids, the larger one to receive the liquid wastes. The -overflow delivering the latter from the retaining or settling chamber for -solids, into the liquid-tank, must dip well below the water-line, so as -to avoid carrying scum with the water. The liquid manure may be pumped by -a small pump, set over the top of the liquid cesspool chamber. - -The question is to some extent simplified if the cottage contains no -water-closets. The liquid manure will be easier removed and taken care -of. The usual and much to be condemned substitute for a water-closet is -a =privy=, located close to or at a distance from the house. It rivals -with the leaching cesspool in nastiness and danger to health. It pollutes -the soil, taints the water in the well and contaminates the air of the -neighborhood. A privy must always receive unqualified condemnation. There -are cheap and cleanly substitutes for it, such as the various apparatus -known as =earth or ash closets=. While I should hesitate to recommend -placing an earth-closet inside a cottage, except for the use of invalids, -it is very easy to arrange it so as to be quite near the rear part of the -house, accessible from it by a not too conspicuous, well covered, shady, -dry and sheltered walk. - -The shed, in which the earth-closet is placed, should be well-built, -strong and tight, and preferably plastered, so as not to be too cold in -winter storms, but also sufficiently ventilated. A simple earth-closet is -illustrated in the writer’s book, “Hints on the Drainage and Sewerage -of Dwellings.” More expensive closets, with mechanical apparatus for -throwing a fixed quantity of earth after use, are sold and generally give -satisfaction if used intelligently, although plain earth-closets answer -well in the case of inexpensive cottages. - -With cottages, provided with earth-closets, the earth-manure can be -advantageously used in the kitchen garden, or else it may be disposed of -to neighboring farmers. The disposal of slop water (kitchen and chamber -slops) may be effected where there are grounds about the house, sloping -somewhat away from it, by =sub-surface irrigation=, consisting in placing -a series of common 2-inch drain tiles in parallel lines, about 10 inches -below the surface of the ground, and distributing the sewage water -intermittently through such a network of pipes into the ground, where it -is acted upon by the vegetation and purified by the earth, acting as a -filter. The details of this system, which answers better than any other -known method of disposal for isolated country dwellings, are given in -the author’s book, quoted before. This system is also practical when -water-closets are used inside the house, but in this case, the solids -should be intercepted in a small receiving reservoir, which must be -frequently cleaned, otherwise the distributing tiles will speedily choke, -and create a nuisance by ceasing to work. - -Cottages or suburban dwellings of moderate cost should have as few -=plumbing fixtures= as possible, especially if water is scarce, and must -be pumped to a distributing tank by hand labor. Where there is a system -of service pipes, tanks and fixtures, there will be more or less outlay -for annual repairs, besides the frequent annoyance of apparatus getting -out of order, or refusing to work, or freezing up and bursting. It is -certainly much cheaper to have a properly managed earth-closet and to -confine the plumbing in the house to a kitchen sink, a force-pump, a -tank and a kitchen boiler. Certain advantages, however, of an indoor -water-closet, as regards comfort, convenience and health, must be -conceded. A bath-room with a plain bath-tub is also a great convenience -and an important aid to bodily cleanliness. It pays well to arrange -for it, even where one must forego the luxury of a good water-closet. -If means are not available for a system of hot and cold water pipes, -the bath tub may be filled by pails. A small slop sink or slop hopper -for removing chamber slops is also useful and facilitates the work of -servants. Both sink and tub may be arranged in one room, which should -have plenty of ventilation and direct light by large windows to the -outer air. Even the smallest cottage must have a plain kitchen sink. -Where the kitchen is large, a set of laundry tubs may be arranged close -by the sink; in larger dwellings a special room is generally set aside -for laundry purposes, next to the kitchen, or below the kitchen, in the -basement, and hot water from the kitchen boiler is generally available. -If a =bath-room= is wanted, with a water-closet and a bath-tub, and all -necessary amount of hot and cold water pipes, waste and vent pipes, let -the arrangement be as plain and as open—which does not necessarily mean -unsightly—as possible. Keep all pipes outside of walls or partitions, -have them where you can constantly see them and lay your hands on any -stopcock or other plumbing detail, if necessary. Dispense with woodwork -as much as possible. Arrange every fixture, especially the sink and the -water-closet, open to inspection and accessible to the dust-brush and -wiping cloth of the servants. It is important—for the sake of economy -as well as on account of plain and straight arrangement of pipes—that -the bath-room should be as nearly as possible directly over the kitchen, -so that one waste pipe and one line of vent pipe may answer for both. -A little skill and foresight in planning will usually accomplish this -desirable feature. - -Let the kitchen sink be of plain cast-iron, the laundry tubs of wood, -or better, of slate; the bath-tub of wood, lined with 14 oz. copper, -and select a good earthen-ware flushing rim hopper with supply-cistern. -Of course, there is more expensive, more durable and handsomer plumbing -apparatus sold, but the above fixtures, if well set, answer all practical -requirements of a small home. The water-closet should be arranged with -so little woodwork as only a seat resting on cleats; the closet itself -standing on all sides free on the floor. This may be finished in hard -wood or covered with oil-cloth, or with slate slabs. A closet thus -arranged answers well for pouring out chamber slops and for use as a -urinal. For further details on plumbing fixtures see the author’s books -on the subject. - -Here are a few approved rules on =house sewerage=, so far as they relate -to plain cottages. - -The main house sewer outside the building to be of strong well-burnt, -and glazed vitrified pipe, circular in section, four inches in diameter, -laid in straight lines, or with curves of large radius at changes of -direction. Joints to be made with pure Portland cement. It is important -that no cement remains on the inside of the joint. The bottom part of -each pipe should be tightened with particular care. The drain to be -firmly laid at the bottom of the trench, if necessary, on a bed of -concrete. Grooves should be cut for the pipe-sockets. The depth of the -drain should be about 3 feet. Junctions to be made with Y branches. -Inclination to be, if possible, ½ inch to the foot. Wherever grades are -very flat provide some simple and inexpensive flushing apparatus at the -head of the house sewer. - -All the pipes inside the house to be thoroughly gas and water-tight, and -well flushed and ventilated. The house sewer inside the dwelling, to a -point five feet outside of the house walls, to be of heavy iron pipe; -of cast iron, if kept below the floor; of wrought iron or cast iron, if -run along the cellar wall or ceiling. Provide a sufficient number of -access-holes for inspection and for removing stoppages. - -The soil pipe or waste pipe to be of heavy tarred cast iron with well -caulked lead joints, or of asphalted wrought iron with steam-tight -screw-joints. Pipes to run as straight as possible from the cellar to the -roof, and to be continued full-size at least two feet above the roof. -Mouth to be left wide open. Size of soil pipe 4 inches; of waste pipe 2 -inches. - -Provide a running trap on line of main house sewer, inside or outside of -the house. Arrange a 4-inch fresh air pipe, at the house side of such -trap, run preferably some distance away from the house and hidden from -sight by shrubbery. - -Branch waste pipes from fixtures to be of heavy lead pipe, 1½ inches -diameter. Joints between lead and iron pipe to be made with brass -ferrules or brass screw nipples. - -Each fixture to be separately trapped near its outlet by a self-cleansing -and secure trap. Overflow pipes to be dispensed with as much as possible; -if used to join the waste pipe between the fixture and the trap. Traps to -be either the siphon (S or running traps), in which case siphonage should -be prevented by an air pipe, or else to be anti-siphoning or mechanical -or mercury-seal traps. - - * * * * * - -The question of how to =warm= our cottage will depend, in the first -place, upon the climate and locality of the proposed dwelling, and -furthermore upon its exposure. Three methods of warming the air of halls -and rooms must be considered, namely, warming by open fire-places, by -stoves and by hot-air furnaces. Direct and indirect heating by steam -and by hot-water apparatus are excluded on account of their cost for -buildings, such as here shown. - -Ordinary =fire-places= warm principally by radiation, the heat from -the fire being imparted to surrounding objects or persons without much -warming the surrounding air. The degree of heat varies with the square of -the distance from the grate, and it thus happens that with a fire-place -as the only means of heating a room of an exposed dwelling, a person -near the fire may be nearly roasted, while at the opposite extreme end -of the room the temperature may be almost down to the freezing point. A -further disadvantage is the fact that it heats only the part of the body -facing the fire. The greatest objection to the ordinary open grate fire -lies in the fact that 85 per cent. and more of the fuel is wasted, the -heat from it going straight up the chimney flue. A fire-place generally -causes extremely cold drafts from window cracks, or from door spaces, -especially in very cold weather. On the other hand, if such cracks are -all carefully closed and stopped up, the chimney is apt to smoke. While, -therefore, an open fire-place may be adequate in warm climates, it is -entirely inadequate to warm, _per se_, cottages in our eastern, northern, -and northwestern States. - -To say that a very large waste of fuel is incident to warming by -fire-places, is not strictly correct, for the heat is not actually -_wasted_. It forms a good aid to the ventilation of rooms, and we -will see later that, as an accessory of other heating methods, the -fire-place is eminently serviceable, and much to be recommended. -Better, however, than ordinary fire-places, are the improved, so-called -=ventilating fire-places=, which are provided with a large air chamber, -and a sufficient air supply from outdoors. There are several excellent -devices of this kind in the market, and these are, of course, much more -economical as far as burning fuel is concerned, about 35 per cent. of the -heat being utilized. They make splendid ventilators, and are generally -superior and free from defects. - -In this country =stoves= of cast iron and of wrought iron are the -usual and most economical means of heating small cottages and suburban -dwellings. It is also, unfortunately, true that, as ordinarily -arranged, they make the worst possible devices for warming the air -of our rooms. Heating should always be combined with ventilation, -that is, there should be a continuous removal of the fouled air and -introduction of plenty of pure air instead, but arranged so as not to -cause inconvenient or unhealthy drafts. A room warmed by an air-tight -stove must soon contain air entirely unfit to breathe, for a close stove -removes practically none of the vitiated air, and there is usually an -entire absence of any provision for introducing fresh air. Less fuel -is consumed, and stove-heating is consequently economical, at least -apparently so, while in reality it causes loss of strength, vigor and -appetite, and general debility and extreme sensitiveness. - -If a dwelling is to be heated by stoves, the following precautions must -be observed. Select a good-sized, well-built stove, with tight joints, -and lined on the inside with fire-brick to prevent the iron from getting -red hot and to retain, as much as possible, the heat. A supply of -fresh pure air from the outside must be arranged, carried to a jacket -surrounding the stove, where the air is warmed by contact with the stove, -and circulated in the room. The smoke pipe of the stove should be large, -and must never have a damper to shut off the draft. A valve may be placed -on the fresh-air inlet pipe to regulate the amount of ventilation at -will. For the removal of foul air outlets must be arranged, near the -ceiling of the room, and into the chimney, care being taken to prevent -down-drafts or entrance of smoke, by arranging a self-closing flap valve -at the outlet. It is much preferable, however, to have an extracting -or ventilating flue, arranged in the chimney adjoining the smoke flue -and warmed by the latter, with outlets from the room into such flue. -The stove should have ample capacity to heat the room even in very cold -weather without driving the fire to a red heat. It is a good plan to -supply a moderate amount of moisture to the air by placing a water kettle -or evaporating pan on the stove. - -Heating suburban dwellings by =hot-air furnaces= has many advantages -over stove heating. Furnace heating is, strictly speaking, stove -heating, but with this difference, that there is only one large stove, -centrally located in the basement or cellar, from which air pipes of -sufficient size carry the warmed air into the rooms as desired. There is, -consequently, less labor in carrying coal and making fires, less trouble -in keeping up the fire, and less dirt and dust from removing ashes. - -Furnace heating is disliked and has often been condemned by many as -detrimental to health, and while such is true of improperly arranged -furnace apparatus, it is, nevertheless, a mode of heating which can be -made perfectly healthy and agreeable. It is impossible to heat a room -well by furnace heat, unless arrangements are made, by an open fire-place -or other outlet into a chimney flue, for withdrawal of the air once -breathed and fouled by respiration. You cannot introduce pure, warmed -air, unless you remove a like amount of fouled air. Another mistake, -frequently made, is to take the air supply to the furnace air-chamber -directly from the cellar. Thus, cellar air, ground air, or air from -sewer pipes, is often sent up in a heated condition into the living and -sleeping rooms. - -If warming by a hot-air furnace is decided upon, care should be taken -to select from the innumerable patterns in the market a good furnace. -The furnace should be of the best quality of material of its kind—either -cast iron, wrought iron or soap-stone,—and of a good size, for if the -furnace is small, it will be overheated in extremely cold weather, which -is very objectionable, as it renders the air less fit for breathing, and -is liable to cause cracks in cast-iron, and loose joints in wrought-iron -furnaces. The furnace must be well constructed, the pot must be lined -with fire-brick to prevent the rapid burning out of the iron, the joints -must be few in number and perfectly tight, and this must be made the -subject of a special examination. The furnace should have one or two -large cold air-ducts, leading to the outside of the house, located on -opposite sides of the house if there are two. These air-ducts should -take their supply preferably five or more feet above the surface of the -ground. A slide-valve must be arranged in the cold-air box, to regulate -the amount of incoming air, and where there is danger from impurities -in the air, the air supply should be filtered through a loose cotton -filter. At the mouth of the air box place a wire-netting to prevent -rats or other animals from entering. The box should be constructed of -well-dried, wooden plank, with closely fitted joints. Better, although -more expensive, is a galvanized sheet iron air-duct. It is advisable to -carry the cold-air box along the ceiling of the cellar, where it is in -sight, and not below the ground, where it may and often is filled with -ground water or pools of sewage from broken cellar drains. The size of -the fresh-air inlet should be equal in area to the aggregate sum of all -hot-air flues, leading from the air chamber into rooms. The fresh air -should be kept tolerably moist by arranging an evaporating pan kept -constantly full of water in the air chamber of the furnace. - -The furnace must be arranged as centrally as possible, so as to make the -horizontal hot-air flues short, for in these the velocity of the air -current is reduced by friction, especially if the flues are small. The -hot-air flues should, preferably, be kept on inside walls, and must be as -direct as possible, and of ample capacity. The inlets or registers, for -admitting warm air into the room, should not be in the floor, for it is -unhealthy to stand over them, moreover they form receptacles of dirt and -dust, and are unsightly in the floor. The inlets should be placed in a -side wall. To avoid danger from charring woodwork no hot-air flues should -come in direct contact with floor-joists, boards or partitions; all -woodwork should be securely protected by some non-conducting material. -The smoke-pipe must be large and run to a good-sized smooth flue, so as -to insure a good steady draft, which will remove all gases of combustion. -There should be no damper on the smoke pipe, and the fire should be -regulated only by more or less admission of air under the fire grate. -Overheating of the furnace must be avoided, for it unduly dries the air, -and scorches the organic matter in the air coming in contact with the -fire, thus causing a peculiar, disagreeable smell. - -An open fire-place in the hall and all principal rooms makes, in -connection with hot-air heating, the most comfortable and pleasant -arrangement for withdrawing fouled air from the room. With the air of -the room introduced at a warm temperature, the radiant heat from the -fire-place is particularly invigorating and comforting. We all love to -gather around a cheerful, glowing fire on the hearth of a cosy home, and -exchange pleasant thoughts or dream away twilight hours in looking at the -flickering light. - -If fire-places are not available for ventilation, outlets must be -provided into warm, ventilating flues, arranged parallel to smoke-flues -in chimneys. Chimney flues should preferably not be built against outside -walls, for they are not apt to draw well in such position, unless a -special air space is arranged in the rear of the flue to prevent its too -rapid cooling. Ventilating flues must be without sharp angles, smooth on -the inside and preferably round in section. If they remove the air from a -number of rooms, their cross-section must be proportionately increased. -Bedrooms should never be heated by base burner stoves, but should have -a fire-place acting at all times as an efficient foul-air flue. Halls -must be moderately heated to avoid cold drafts through door-cracks, and -to insure a more uniform heat throughout the dwelling. Bathrooms and -kitchens must be ventilated with special care. - -=Ventilation= or change of air in dwellings must go on at all seasons -of the year. It aims at removing the vitiated air in a dwelling and -introducing a sufficient amount of pure air, moderately heated in winter -time, supplied with a proper amount of moisture, and thoroughly and -uniformly diffusing it in the house interior in gentle currents, without -causing undue drafts. Drafts are dangerous to health, because they -rob the human body too suddenly of a part of its heat. In summer-time -ventilation is happily and easily accomplished by opening doors or -windows, and by occasional “air-flushing” by creating cross-currents -through rooms. Fire-places should not be covered up in summer by -fire-boards. In winter-time ventilation should always be combined with -heating. - -In the spring or fall of the year we often content ourselves with a small -wood or coal fire on the hearth, and in such a case the easiest way to -provide for incoming fresh air is by admitting air through the windows, -directing the cold current to rise up to the ceiling. This may be done by -lowering the upper sash and raising the lower one slightly, not enough to -leave openings at top and bottom. A better way is, of course, to have a -ventilating open fire-place, such as the “fire-on-the-hearth” stove, or -other apparatus. - -The so-called spontaneous or accidental ventilation by air penetrating -walls cannot, practically, establish a sufficient change of air. Its -effect is very much reduced by papering, painting, plastering on the -inside, and by treating the outside walls by some water-proof process, as -is frequently done, as a protection against driving rains. - -For details on ventilation, amount of cubic space in rooms, amount of -air-supply required, proper position of inlets and outlets, and other -questions, we refer to larger hand-books on ventilation. - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration: PLATES.] - - -[Illustration: PLATE I - -Perspective Sketch. - -Rossiter and Wright Architects.] - -[Illustration: PLATE II - -Sketch for Cottage. - -Wm. A. Bates. Architect. 149 Broadway, New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE III - -Perspective Sketch. - -Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE IV - -Sketch for Cottage. - -Wm. A. Bates. Architect. 149 Broadway, New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE V - -Perspective. - -Thos. Tryon. Architect. New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE VI - -Perspective Sketch. - -Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE VII - -Suburban Cottage. - -Frank F. Ward. Architect. 59 Astor House, N.Y.] - -[Illustration: PLATE VIII - -Sketch. Design for Cottage-Rooms in connection with a Summer Hotel. - -Fredk. B. White. Architect. 294 Broadway, New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE IX - -Sketch for Cottage. - -Wm. A. Bates. Architect. 149 Broadway, New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE X - -Perspective. - -Chas. I. Berg. Architect. N.Y.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XI - -Perspective Sketch. - -Fredk. B. White. Architect. 294 Broadway, New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XII - -A Stone & Timber Cottage. - -Wm. B. Tuthill. Architect. 52 Broadway, N.Y.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XIII - -Perspective Sketch. - -Thos. Tryon. Architect. New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XIV - -Perspective Sketch. - -Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XV - -A Low priced Sea-side Cottage. Perspective Sketch. - -Rossiter and Wright Architects.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XVI - -Sketch for Small Cottage. - -Jas. D. Hunter Jr. Architect. New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XVII - -Bungalow with Attic. - -Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XVIII - -A house planned to meet the requirements of a 50 ft. suburban lot. - -Rossiter and Wright Architects.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XIX - -Cottage on Side Hill. - -Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XX - -A Double Cottage. - -Frank F. Ward. Architect. 59 Astor House, N.Y.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XXI - -Pair of Semi-detached Cottages. - -Chas. I. Berg. Architect. N.Y.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XXII - -Semi-Detached Homes for a Village Street. - -Fredk. B. White. Architect. 294 Broadway, New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XXIII - -Sketch for a small double house. - -Wm. B. Tuthill. Architect. 52 Broadway, N.Y.] - - - - -[Illustration: ADVERTISEMENTS] - - -DURHAM SYSTEM OF HOUSE DRAINAGE. - -THE Durham House Drainage Company OF NEW YORK. - -MANUFACTURING THE DURHAM PATENT SYSTEM OF SCREW-JOINT IRON HOUSE DRAINAGE - -TRUSTEES: - - JOSEPH P. DAVIS, Vice-Pres’t Am. Soc. C. E. - RUDOLPH HERING, M. Am. Soc. C. E. - DANIEL P. BRUNER, M. Am. Soc. C. E. - HENRY G. PROUT, M. Am. Soc. C. E. - C. W. DURHAM, M. Am. Soc. C. E. - WM. H. BOARDMAN. - DR. C. FAYETTE TAYLOR. - FLOYD B. WILSON. - CHAS. P. WHITNEY. - - C. W. DURHAM, PRESIDENT. - CHAS. P. WHITNEY, SECRETARY. - WM. PAUL GERHARD, CHIEF ENG’R. - JOSEPH P. DAVIS, VICE-PRESIDENT. - HENRY G. PROUT, TREASURER. - H. C. VAIL, GENERAL AGENT. - -NEW YORK CITY, 231-235 East Forty-Second Street. - -_ALBANY, RICHARD PRESCOTT, M.E. 86 State Street._ - -_PHILADELPHIA, 114 S. Sixth St. (Ledger Building.)_ - -_BROOKLYN, 26 Court St. (40 Garfield Building.)_ - -MECHANICAL PERFECTION IN SCIENTIFIC PLUMBING. - -The Durham system of construction for house drains provides absolute -and permanent security from sewer malaria, and relief from expenses for -repairs. - -The Durham Companies construct all work with their own workmen, under -the supervision of their own engineers. Expert mechanics are sent to any -distance to execute contracts. - -All work is of standard quality, fully guaranteed, and furnished at an -ordinary manufacturing profit, at a cost no greater than is asked for the -best class of old style plumbing. Its permanance renders it cheaper than -the cheapest kind of “skin” plumbing. - -The Durham system will be constructed in old or new buildings, including -or excluding the balance of the plumbing work, fixtures and gas fitting, -as may be desired. - -The Durham system can be cheaply introduced into old buildings, making -them fresh and wholesome. - -Illustrated Pamphlets Sent on Application. - - * * * * * - -APPLETON’S HOME-BOOKS. - -Appleton’s Home-Books are now put up in three volumes, elegantly bound in -cloth, four books to a volume, as follows: - - { BUILDING A HOME. Illustrated. - Volume One: { HOW TO FURNISH A HOME. Illustrated. - { THE HOME GARDEN. Illustrated. - { HOME GROUNDS. Illustrated. - - { HOME DECORATION. Illustrated. - Volume Two: { THE HOME NEEDLE. Illustrated. - { AMENITIES OF HOME. - { HOUSEHOLD HINTS. - - { THE HOME LIBRARY. Illustrated. - Volume Three: { HOME OCCUPATIONS. Illustrated. - { HOME AMUSEMENTS. - { HEALTH AT HOME. - -_Each four books make a large handsome, 12mo volume, printed on extra -fine paper and elegantly bound. Sold in sets, or each volume separately. -Price, $2 per volume. (The separate books may be obtained; price, 60 -cents each.)_ - -“A series of hand-books devoted to the practical scheme of home-making. -The work is planned with especial reference to the needs of the great -body of plain people to whom economy is a prime element in the problem, -but to whom beauty and healthfulness and perfect service are also -indispensable.”—_Home Journal._ - -New York: D. APPLETON & CO., Publishers, 1, 3 and 5 Bond Street. - - * * * * * - -100 Page ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE of BOOKS on - - ARCHITECTURE, - BUILDING, - CARPENTRY, - PAINTING, - DECORATION, _and_ - ORNAMENT. - -SENT TO ANY ADDRESS ON RECEIPT OF 10 CENTS. - -William T. Comstock, Publisher, No. 6 ASTOR PLACE, New York. - - * * * * * - -The attention of architects, builders and house owners is called to the -only practical fixture for opening and closing outside-blinds, from -within the house, without raising the windows or removing window screen. -With each set of fixtures is furnished all the iron-ware necessary for -hanging a pair of blinds. The hinges are the strongest and most durable -of any in the market; they, and all other parts of the fixture, are -made of malleable-iron and subjected to a process which renders them -rust-proof. They can be applied to blinds already hung, as well as to new -work. - -[Illustration] - -For full information apply to - -The Dudley Shutter-Worker and Burglar-Alarm Co., Rooms 105 and 106 Temple -Court, 5 Beekman Street, New York City. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration] - -N. H. EGLESTON JR. No. 7 East Washington Place N.Y. - - MOSAIC GLASS - CURTAINS - TEXTILES - CABINET WOODWORKS - MEMORIAL WINDOWS - AND general leaded glass work for ecclesiastical and domestic use - GAS FIXTURES - Ceiling Designs - AND Mural Decoration - BRASS and OTHER METAL WORK - Glass Mosaics - Designs and estimates for all sorts of interior decoration - - * * * * * - -RECENTLY PUBLISHED. - -[Illustration: DESIGN SELECTED FROM “AMERICAN COTTAGES.”] - -A NEW AND IMPORTANT WORK, - -AMERICAN COTTAGES, - -CONSISTING OF 44 LARGE QUARTO PLATES, - -CONTAINING - -Original Designs of Medium and Low Cost Cottages, Seaside and Country -Houses. Also, a Club House, School House, Pavilion, and a Small Seaside -Chapel, - -TOGETHER WITH A FORM OF SPECIFICATION FOR COTTAGES. - -All in the latest prevailing styles, from the drawings of a number -of prominent architects, thus securing a great variety of plans and -diversity of treatment, and offering the largest opportunity for -selection. - -ONE LARGE QUARTO VOL. PRICE, POST PAID, $5. - -PRESS NOTICES. - -Such books as this ... do absolute good to the profession at large, -by showing the public how infinite are the ways of treating the same -problem, and that even if the appropriation is small, it is not necessary -that the building should be in the carpenter vernacular.—_Am. Architect._ - -This is a very handsomely gotten up book ... some of the designs are -very fine and are in full accord with the present prevailing styles of -architecture, and will be found useful to the man who is about to build, -as well as to the architectural student and professional builder. The -work reflects credit on the publisher.—_Builder and Wood-worker._ - -... The designs are unique, beautiful, and can be erected at small -cost.—_Lumber Trade Journal._ - -Devoted to low priced houses ... is a good exhibit of artistic feeling in -their treatment.—_Am. Agriculturalist._ - -The whole work is an invaluable one to those contemplating building.—_The -Criterion._ - -Persons about to build will like to consult the collection of designs ... -gathered in American Cottages.—_Home Journal._ - -Affords a fine field of selection from the latest and most approved -styles of Modern Architecture.—_The Tradesman._ - - * * * * * - -JUST PUBLISHED. - -A NEW AND REVISED EDITION - -_of this important work of especial interest to Architects, Builders, -Painters and House Owners_. - -MODERN HOUSE PAINTING - -This edition has several new plates, and the whole system of coloring -has been thoroughly revised; new plates in several instances being -substituted for the old ones; the letter press describing the plates has -been entirely re-written, making it practically a new book. - -It contains twenty colored lithographic plates, exhibiting the use of -color in Exterior and Interior House Painting, and embracing examples of -simple and elaborate work in plain, graded and parti-colors. Also the -treatment of old styles of houses, together with full descriptive letter -press, covering the preparation, use and application of colors, with -special directions applicable to each example. The whole work offering -valuable hints and suggestions on harmonious color treatment, suitable to -every variety of building. - -By E. K. ROSSITER and F. A. WRIGHT, Architects. - -1 oblong quarto volume, handsomely bound in cloth. Price, post-paid, $5.00 - - * * * * * - -Building Superintendence. - -By Professor THEODORE M. CLARK. - -1 volume. Profusely illustrated with plans, diagrams, etc. Price, $3.00 - -An exceedingly valuable work, based on the series of thirty articles -recently published in _The American Architect_, and so fully illustrated -with cuts and diagrams that every point is made very plain. The countless -problems involved in the overseeing of the construction of buildings -are stated, studied and solved in a practical, direct and perfectly -comprehensible manner. - -WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, Publisher, 6 Astor Place, New York. - - * * * * * - -RECENTLY PUBLISHED. - -INTERIORS AND INTERIOR DETAILS - -[Illustration: _Miniature Illustration. Selected from “Interiors and -Interior Details.”_] - -Fifty-two large quarto plates, comprising a large number of original -designs of Halls, Stair-cases, Parlors, Libraries, Dining-Rooms, etc. -Together with special designs for Low Cost, Medium and Elaborate Wood -Mantels, Sideboards, Furniture, Wood Ceilings, Doors, Door and Window -Trims, Wainscots, Bank, Office and Store Fittings, in Perspective, -Elevation and Detail, making a valuable series of Suggestions for -Architects, Architectural Designers, Builders and persons intending -to build. And a large collection of interior details suited to the -requirements of carpenters, builders and mechanics, reproduced from the -drawings of prominent architects of New York, Boston, Chicago and other -cities. With an Introduction, Description of Plates, and Notes on Wood -Finish. - -By WILLIAM B. TUTHILL, A. M., Architect. Author of “Practical Lessons in -Architectural Drawing.” - -1 large quarto volume, handsomely bound in cloth. Price, post-paid, $7.50 - -WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, Publisher, 6 Astor Place, New York. - - * * * * * - -JUST PUBLISHED. - -_An Entirely New and Original Work._ - -PRACTICAL LESSONS IN ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING - -OR - -How to Make the Working Drawings for Buildings. - -_44 pages descriptive letter press, illustrated by 33 full page plates -(one in colors), and 33 woodcuts, showing methods of construction and -representation._ - -The work embraces Scale Drawings of Plans, Elevations, Sections and -Details of Frame, Brick and Stone Buildings, with full descriptions and a -form of Specifications adapted to the same. - -Suited to the wants of Architectural Students, Carpenters, Builders, and -all desirous of acquiring a thorough knowledge of Architectural DRAWING -and CONSTRUCTION. - -CONTENTS. - -CHAP. I.—_Introduction._ CHAP. II.—_A Small Frame House._ CHAP. III.—_A -Frame Building._ CHAP. IV.—_A Brick Building._ CHAP. V.—_A Stone -Building._ CHAP. VI.—_The Specifications._ CHAP. VII.—_Color._ - -By WILLIAM B. TUTHILL, A.M., Architect. - -One large 8vo volume, oblong. Cloth. Price, post-paid, $2.50 - -EDITORIAL NOTICES. - -The author has made the most complete and most practical book for -students and builders, ever prepared in this country.—_The American -Bookseller._ - -The Work is designed as a guide to the making of working drawings and -specifications for buildings and is a valuable and practical aid for -carpenters, builders and architectural students.—_The Publishers Weekly._ - -This work is of a purely practical and useful kind, and such as we have -frequently had inquiries for. To the carpenter, joiner or architectural -student who is struggling to obtain a knowledge of architectural drawing -and construction, this work will prove of great value.—_The Builder and -Woodworker._ - -We have been favored with a number of advance sheets of the above work, -and find it, both in conception and execution, worthy of unqualified -praise. The material embraced in this volume promises to be entirely new -and original, and not the mere re-hash of a literary hack. The work will -be a most useful book of instruction.—_The Manufacturer and Builder._ - -The work is admirably described in its title. The author is a practical -architect and has made a practical book which will be of great assistance -to carpenters, builders, and students, containing just the information -they most need, and are least likely to find in books.—_The United States -News Dealer._ - -This is probably the most important work to which we have ever drawn -our readers’ attention. It contains within its covers a greater fund of -knowledge than many of the practicing architects of the day possessed -when they first entered the profession. Its usefulness to those who -desire to engage in architecture can therefore be appreciated.—_Carpentry -and Building._ - -A compact handy little manual, we commend it to students.—_N. Y. Sun._ - -His drawings are clear and thorough and so detailed as to show the whole -construction.—_The N. Y. World._ - -Young men who are seeking a profession, will find it a guide.—_N. Y. -Despatch._ - -The technical work and general construction are admirable. The details -are carefully drawn and show a practiced hand. The introduction is sound. -The work will be welcomed heartily by students and young draftsmen. To -such we cordially recommend it.—_The Sanitary Engineer._ - -—Is one of the most practical and useful books of the kind that we have -ever noticed. It may also be read with advantage by many practicing -architects.—_California Architect._ - - * * * * * - -AN IMPROVED LEVELING INSTRUMENT - -_Adapted to the use of Architects, Engineers, Masons, Builders, Farmers -and others._ - -[Illustration] - -The instrument is made of Brass and Iron, Lacquered and Japanned so that -it will not corrode, and consists of the following principal parts: - -The Sighting Tube A A´. The Horizontal Circle and the lower Disc or Base -B. - -Price of Instrument, Complete, $20. - -THE ONLY LOW PRICED LEVEL THAT CAN BE THOROUGHLY ADJUSTED IN THE FIELD. - -DESCRIPTION OF THE LEVEL. - -The sighting tube A A´ is 14 in. long and has at the end A´ a pin hole -looking through the tube, and at the other end A a small ring inside the -brass shield or outer ring shown in cut holding the cross wires. A cover -is provided as shown in cut to protect the cross wires. This tube rests -in the Ys, Y and Y´. On this tube at the Ys are two rings with flanges, -like car wheels, and it is held in its place by the latches on the top of -the Ys. By loosening these latches this sighting tube may be revolved to -test the adjustment of the cross wires. - -At the feet of the Ys will be seen the nuts, one above and one below the -end of the cross bar, which may be turned, thus raising or lowering the -end of the tube and adjusting the line of sight to the line of level. The -circle C is graduated to 10° and the pointer marked to degrees, so that -the instrument may be used in laying off angles, squaring foundations, -&c. The pointer is movable and can be fixed in position by the set screw -shown in the cut just below the cross bar. The cross bar carries the -glass bubble which is seen in the cut. The bubble itself may be adjusted -by the screws. To the circle are attached the two thumb screws and -springs opposite to them by means of which the instrument is brought to a -level. - -In the outer edge of the Base B is a smoothly turned groove in which -the feet of the screws and springs may slip easily whenever it may be -necessary to revolve the circle on the base. The centre of the base is -formed into a socket for the ball referred to above. The under surface -has a solid cylinder which screws in the collar of the tripod. The cord -suspending the plumb-bob drops from the centre of the instrument to which -it is attached by a loop not shown in the cut. From this description it -will be seen that this instrument can be _adjusted_ in every way possible -in the highest priced instruments, and has besides the additional feature -of a horizontal circle, making it in reality a plain transit, as well as -level. - -_Every instrument will be completely adjusted before it is shipped._ - -The instrument is put up in a handsome wooden box with strap for carrying -and furnished with a surveyor’s tripod and a short or mason’s tripod. - -PRICE OF INSTRUMENT COMPLETE, $20. - -Forwarded by express on receipt of price. The charges of transportation -from New York to the purchaser are in all cases to be borne by him, I -guaranteeing the safe arrival of all instruments to the extent of express -transportations, and holding the express companies responsible to me for -all losses or damages on the way. - -A NEW LEVELING ROD. - -[Illustration] - -This rod is round and made in two sections, so that it can be -conveniently carried, is united by a solid screw joint, so that when -together it is as firm as if of one length, and has a target as shown in -illustration, made to slide on the rod. - -There are two scales: one side being Engineer’s (feet, 10ths and 100ths); -the other Architect’s scale (or feet, inches and 8ths). - -Forwarded by express on receipt of price. The charges of transportation -from New York to the purchaser are in all cases to be borne by him. -Price, $6.00 Where the Level is ordered with the rod, the price of the -two will be, $25.00. - -WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, Manufacturer, 6 Astor Place, New York. - - * * * * * - -JUST PUBLISHED. - -MODERN - -Architectural Designs & Details - -[Illustration: Miniature of Plate 44, full size 9 × 12.] - -CONTAINING 80 FINELY LITHOGRAPHED PLATES; - -showing new and original designs of _Dwellings of Moderate Cost_, in the -_Queen Anne_, _Eastlake_, _Elizabethan_, and other modernized styles, -giving Perspective Views, Floor and Framing Plans, Elevations, Sections, -and a great variety of miscellaneous EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR DETAILS of -Dwellings, Stores, Offices, etc. Also, a number of designs of _Low Priced -Cottages_, in the various popular styles, adapted to the requirements of -_Seaside and Summer Resorts_, and - -Suburban and Country Places, - -comprising drawings by prominent architects of New York, Boston and other -localities, as well as other designs prepared expressly for this work. -All Elevations, Plans and Details to Scale. - -One Large (11 × 14) Quarto Volume, handsomely bound in Cloth. - -Price, post-paid, $10.00. - -☞ For Contents, see following pages. Preface and Contents in English and -German. - - * * * * * - -MODERN - -Architectural Designs and Details. - -PRICE, POST-PAID, $10.00. - -CONTENTS: - - Plate 1—Perspective View and Plans of Queen Anne Cottage. - - Plate 2—Three Elevations of same to ⅛ inch Scale. - - Plate 3—Framing Plans, showing Construction. - - Plate 4—Exterior Details of same, ¼ and ¾ inch Scale and Rear - Elevation. - - Plate 5—Exterior Details of same, ¼ and ¾ inch Scale. - - Plate 6—Interior Details of same, ¼ and ¾ inch Scale. - - Plate 7—Porch and Details, ½ and ¾ inch Scale, miscellaneous. - - Plate 8—4 Piazzas and Details, ½ and ¾ inch Scale, - miscellaneous. - - Plate 9—Store Front, Scale, ¼ inch, 1 foot - Details of Show Window, ” ½ ” 1 ” - 3 Designs for Counters. ” ½ ” 1 ” - Elevation of Shelves with Sections, ” 1 ” 1 ” - - Plate 10—3 Store Counters and Sections. - 2 Designs for Shelving and Sections. - 1 Case with Glass Front and Drawers, Scale, ½ in., 1 ft. - - Plate 11—20 Designs for Brackets, ” ¾ ” 1 ” - - Plate 12—4 Designs for Gates and Fences, ” ¾ ” 1 ” - - Plate 13—10 Designs Window Caps and Hoods, ” 3 ” 1 ” - - Plate 14—24 Designs Architraves and Bases, ” 3 ” 1 ” - 2 Designs Wainscoting, ” ¾ ” 1 ” - 2 Designs Window Sills and Aprons, ” 3 ” 1 ” - - Plate 15—17 Designs, Sections and details of Balconies, Scale, - ⅜ & ¾ inch, 1 foot. - - Plate 16—6 Elevations and 3 Plans of low priced cottages, - costing from $500 to $1,500, according to locality. We do not - publish cost in book, as we prefer to have builders fix prices - as per requirements. Scale of Elevations and Plans, ³⁄₃₂ inch, - 1 foot. - - Plate 17—6 Elevations and 3 Plans of low priced Cottages, in - Queen Anne style, costing from $500 to $1,500 and upwards, - according to locality and style of finish. Scale, ³⁄₃₂ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 18—2 Designs and Details of Summer Houses Scale, ½ & ¼ - in. 1 ft. - - Plate 19—Perspective View and Plans of House Suitable for - Seaside, Summer or Southern Residence, Scale, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 20—3 Elevations of Design Plate 19. Scale, ⅛ & ⅟₁₆ in, 1 - ft. - - Plate 21—Framing Plans of Design Plate 19. Scale, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 22—Exterior Details of Design Plate 19 Scale, ½ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 23—Interior Details of Design Plate 19 Scale, ½ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 24—9 Designs of Window Sash, Queen Anne Style Scale, ¾ - in. 1 ft. - - Plate 25—2 Elevations and Details of Stores of moderate cost, - with Dwellings above. Scale, ⅟₁₆, ⅛ and ¾ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 26—Elevations and Details of Stores in Queen Anne Style. - Scale, ¼,1½ and 3 in. 1 ft. - - Plate 27—2 Elevations and Basement Plan of a First Class Modern - Dwelling, to cost about $5,000. Scale of Elevations. ⅛ in. - Scale of Plan. ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 28—First and Second Floor Plans of Design shown on Plates - 27 and 29 Scale ⅛ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 29—2 Elevations and Attic Plan of Design Plate 27. Scale - of Elevations, ⅓ in. Scale of Plan, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 30—Details of Front Porch Architraves Panels of Front - Door, etc., of Design Plates 27 and 29. Scale, indicated on - plate. - - Plate 31—Details of Rear Porch, Front Gable, Balustrade, - Cornice, Water Table, Shingles, and View of Flower Balcony. - Scale, ¼ and 1 in. 1 ft. - - Plate 32—20 Designs of Exterior and Interior Cornices and Belt - Courses. Scale, ½ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 33—5 Cornices, Wood, Terra Cotta and Stone. Scale, 1 in. - 1 ft. - - Plate 34—4 Designs for Single Doors, and 2 Designs and Sections - of Front and Vestibule Doors. Scale, ½ and 1½ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 35—8 Designs for Exterior and Interior Doors Scale, ½ - in. Details of Panels. ½ full size, and 9 Designs of full size - Mouldings. - - Plate 36—15 Designs of Windows. Scale, ¼ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 37—2 Designs and Details of Bay Windows. Scale, ¼ and ¾ - in. 1 ft. - - Plate 38—Plans, Elevations and View of a Suburban House of - moderate cost. Scale indicated on plate. - - Plate 39—Details of Design Plate 38. Scale, ½ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 40—Elevations and Sections of Hall, Library, Parlor and 2 - Chamber Mantels. Scale, ½ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 41—Perspective View and Plans of House costing $6,000. - Plans to scale. - - Plate 42—2 Elevations of Design Plate 41. Scale, ⅓ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 43—Exterior Details of Design Plates 41 and 42. Scale, ½ - in. 1 ft. General Piazza Details; Front Gable Details; Dormer - in Small Gable; Tower Dormer; Finial on Tower Roof; Section - through Main Cornice; Cut Shingles; Small Posts Dormer, with - Balcony. - - Plate 44—Interior Details of Design Plates 41 and 42. Stair - Details Rail and Balustrade; scale 1 in. 1 ft.; Bracket in - Hall: scale, 1 in. 1 ft.; Bracket used on Beam between Library - and Sitting Room; scale, 3 in. 1 ft.; Window finish; scale, 3 - in. 1 ft.; Elevation of Staircase; scale, 1½ in. 1 ft.; Small - Post, scale, 1½ in. 1 ft.; Bracket on Small Posts; scale, 1½ - in. 1 ft.; Roll stopping Hand Rail on Newel Post; scale, 1½ - in. 1 ft.; Rosette on Newel; scale, 1½ in. 1 ft.; Stair Newel; - scale, 1½ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 45—Perspective View of Queen Anne House at Short Hills, - N. J., with Oriel Bay Window and 4 plans. Plans to scale. Cost - $6,000. - - Plate 46—Front and Side Elevations of Design Plate 45; scale, ⅓ - in. 1 ft. - - Plate 47—Exterior Details, Design Plates 45 and 46; scale, ½ - in. 1 ft.; Bracket over Balcony; Water Table, etc.; Section - through Verandah; Tower Finial; Triplet Window in side Gable; - Carved Panels under front Gable Window; Section through Oriel; - Porch Gable. - - Plate 48—Interior Details, Design Plates 45 and 46; scale - of Elevations, ½ in. 1 ft.; scale of details, 1½ in. 1 ft.; - Interior of Hall; Newel; Baluster Rail, etc.; Wainscot; Hall - Arch; Triplet Window; Horizontal section; Section through - window sill; Cornice. - - Plate 49—Perspective View and Plans of a Sea or Lake-Shore - Cottage. Plans to Scale. - - Plate 50—Water Front and Side Elevation of Design Plate 49. - Drawn to scale. - - Plate 51—Perspective View of Main Hall of Design Plate 49. Half - Plan at Fireplace; Half Plan at Shelf; Plan and Elevation of - Drawing Room; scale, ¼ in. Details of Porch, Gable and Chimney - at ½ in. scale. - - Plate 52—2 Sea-Side Cottages or Southern Houses, with Front - Elevations and Plans of First Floor; Scale, ³⁄₃₂ in. - - Plate 53—3 Small Sea-Shore or Southern Cottages, Two Elevations - of each and one Plan of each. Scale of Elevations, 12 ft. to 1 - in. Scale of Plan 24 and 36 ft. to 1 in. - - Plate 54—5 Designs for Lattice Work. Scale, ⅛ in. to 1 ft. - - Plate 55—6 Specimens of Sea-Side Cottages. Scale Design No. 1, - ⅛ in. to 1 ft. Scale Designs No. 2 to 6, ³⁄₃₂ in. to 1 ft. - - Plate 56—Inside Finish of a Summer Cottage. Fireplace, Niche - and Plan Scale. ⅜ in. to 1 ft. Staircase Details and Bracket - under Beam. Scale, 1 in. to 1 ft. - - Plate 57—Front and North Elevations of a Lake View Cottage. - Scale, ⅛ in. - - Plate 58—Plans of First and Second Floors, Roof and Attic. - Scale, ⅟₁₆ in. - - Plate 59—South and Rear Elevations of Lake View Cottage. Scale, - ⅛ in. - - Plate 60—Details of Lake View Cottage. Hall, Fire-Place and - Section Scale, ⅜ in. Exterior Finish Scale, ¼ in. Interior - Finish Scale, ¾ in. - - Plate 61—Plan, Elevations and Sections of a Dining Room Closet. - Scale of Design, ½ in. Scale of Details, 1½ in. - - Plate 62—Plans, Elevations, Details and Sections of 2 Wash Bowl - Cabinets. Scales, 1 and 3 in. - - Plate 63—5 Elevations and 4 Plans of Low Priced Colonial - Cottages. Scale, ³⁄₃₂ in. - - Plate 64—Turned Work. 5 Designs of Posts, 18 Designs of - Balusters, 3 Designs of Columns, 6 Designs of Drops and 6 - Designs of Finials. - - Plate 65—Perspective View and Plans of a Modern Dwelling - costing about $3,500. Scale of Plans, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 66—2 Elevations and Sections of Design Plate 65. Scale, ⅛ - in. 1 ft. - - Plate 67—Exterior and Interior Details of Design, plate 65. - Scale ½ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 68—A Balcony Gable. Scale, ½ in. 1 ft. Section, ¼ in. - Plan, ⅓ in. Section of Cornices at ½ full size. Baluster, ½ - full size. - - Plate 69—Design of House recently Erected in California. This - plate shows 2 Plans, 2 Elevations, Sections and Details. Scale, - ⅟₁₆ to ¼ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 70—3 Designs and Details of Verge Boards. Scale of - Designs, ½ in. 1 ft. Details, 1½ in. - - Plate 71—2 Plans and 2 Elevations of Dwelling House showing - Eastlake features. Scale, ⅛ in. 1 ft. to ⅟₃₂ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 72—4 Elevations and 4 Sections of Ventilators. Scale, ¼ - in. 1 ft. to ¾ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 73—Perspective View and Plans of Brick and Frame Cottage. - Scale, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 foot. - - Plate 74—Three Elevations of Design, Plate 73. Scale, ⅛ and ⅟₁₆ - in. 1 ft. - - Plate 75—Exterior and Interior Details of Design, Plate 73, - embracing Details of Main Cornice, Parlor Bay, Porch, Cresting, - Front Staircase and Parlor Mantel. Scales, ½ in. and 1½ in. 1 - foot. - - Plate 76—Dwelling in the Elizabethan Style. Elevations and - Plans. Scale, ³⁄₃₂ in. 1 foot. - - Plate 77—Fittings for Banking or Insurance Office. Elevations - and Sections of Counter and Screen; Partition, Balusters, Rail, - Desk, &c. Scale, ½ in. 1 foot. - - Plate 78—Bank Fixtures, 2 Elevations of Bank Desks, Sections of - same and Details. Scale of Elevations, ¾ in. 1 foot; Scale of - Details, 3 in. 1 foot. - - Plate 79—Ventilating Registers, cut in Brass, 2 circular, 2 - oblong, and 3 spandril. Scale, ⅓ and ¼ full size. - - Plate 80—Eight Designs for Chimney Tops. Scale, ½ in. 1 foot. - - * * * * * - -$10.00, Reduced to $6.00. - -THIS VALUABLE BOOK, - -Detail, Cottage and Constructive Architecture. - -[Illustration] - -Containing Seventy-Five Large Lithographic Plates, Published under the -direction of A. J. BICKNELL. - -Showing a great variety of Designs for Cornices, Brackets, Windows -and Window Caps, Doors, Piazzas, Porches, Bay and Dormer Windows, -Observatories, Towers, Chimney Tops, Balconies, Canopies, Scrolls, Gable -and Sawed Ornaments, Fences, Stairs, Newels, Architraves, Mantels, -Plaster Finish, Etc., including: Forty-five Perspectives, Elevations, -and Plans of Modern Designs for Cottages, with Details, and Eighteen -Elevations of Summer Houses, Villas, Sea-Side Cottages, and Country -Houses, together with Fourteen Designs for Street and Store Fronts, -with inside finish for Stores and Banks; also, Framing for Dwellings, -Barns, Exhibition Buildings, Roofs, Bridges, etc., etc., making in all -a Practical Book for Architects, Builders, Carpenters, and all who -contemplate Building or Remodeling Wood, Stone, or Brick Buildings. - -ONE LARGE QUARTO VOLUME. SENT FREE, BY MAIL OR EXPRESS, ON RECEIPT OF -PRICE. $6.00. - -_For description of Plates see following pages._ - - * * * * * - -RECENTLY PUBLISHED. - -[Illustration: “ARTISTIC HOMES.”] - -BY A. W. FULLER, Architect, - -Containing 44 Plates of Queen Anne and Colonial Style Villas and -Cottages, costing from $700 upwards - -_One large (8½ × 12 inches) volume, handsomely bound in Cloth._ - -PRICE, POST-PAID, $3.50. - -CONTENTS: - - Plate I.—Perspective View of Stone and tile villa. - - Plate II.—Floor Plans of Plate I. - - Plate III.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate I, - showing staircase and terra cotta mantel. - - Plate IV.—Perspective View of Dining Room of Plate I, showing - fireplace, recess, sideboard, dining table and furniture. - - Plate V.—Perspective View of brick and tile villa. - - Plate VI.—Floor Plans of Plate V. - - Plate VII.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate V, - showing staircase, fireplace under staircase in arched recess, - and entrance to conservatory. - - Plate VIII.—Perspective View of wood villa. - - Plate IX.—Floor Plans of Plate VIII. - - Plate X.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate VIII, - showing staircase, &c. - - Plate XI.—Perspective View of dining room of Plate VIII, - showing fireplace and mantel, and furniture. - - Plate XII.—Perspective View of “The old made new.” - - Plate XIII.—Perspective View of wood villa. - - Plate XIV.—Floor Plans of Plate XIII. - - Plate XV.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate XIII, - showing staircase, &c. - - Plate XVI.—Perspective View of wood villa. - - Plate XVII.—Floor Plans of villa No. XVI. - - Plate XVIII.—Perspective View of brick and tile villa. - - Plate XIX.—Floor Plans of Plate XVIII. - - Plate XX.—Perspective View of wood villa. - - Plate XXI.—Floor Plans of Plate XX. - - Plate XXII.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage. - - Plate XXIII.—Floor Plans of Plate XXII. - - Plate XXIV.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage. - - Plate XXV.—Floor Plans of Plate XXIV. - - Plate XXVI.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage. - - Plate XXVII.—Floor Plans of Plate XXVI. - - Plate XXVIII.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage. - - Plate XXIX.—Floor Plans of Plate XXVIII. - - Plate XXX.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage. - - Plate XXXI.—Floor Plans of Plate XXX. - - Plate XXXII.—Perspective View of Seaside Cottage (wood). - - Plate XXXIII.—Floor Plans of Plate XXXII. - - Plate XXXIV.—Perspective View of Seaside Cottage (wood). - - Plate XXXV.—Floor Plans of Plate XXXIV. - - Plate XXXVI.—Perspective View of Bed-room Interior, showing - furniture. - - Plate XXXVII.—Perspective View of Bed-room Interior, showing - furniture. - - Plate XXXVIII.—Explanation of the Drainage and Plumbing. - - Plate XXXIX.—Drawing showing the Drain and Plumbing. - - Plate XL.—Perspective View of a City House Front. - - Plate XLI.—Floor Plans of Plate XL. - - Plate XLII.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate XL., - showing Staircase, Hatstand, &c. - - Plate XLIII.—Floor Plans of a City House built in a block. - - Plate XLIV.—Perspective View of a Country Church built of brick - and Stone, and costing $10,000. - - * * * * * - -STANDARD ARCHITECTURAL BOOKS - -=BICKNELL’S DETAIL, COTTAGE AND CONSTRUCTIVE ARCHITECTURE.= Containing -seventy-five large Lithographic Plates, published under the direction -of A. J. BICKNELL, showing a great variety of Designs for Cornices, -Brackets, Windows and Window Caps, Doors, Piazzas, Porches, Bay and -Dormer Windows, Observatories, Towers, Chimney Tops, Balconies, Canopies, -Scrolls, Gable and Sawed Ornaments, Fences, Stairs, Newels, Architraves, -Mantles, Plaster Finish, etc., including forty-five Perspectives, -Elevations and Plans of Modern Designs for Cottages, with Details, and -eighteen Elevations of Summer Houses, Villas, Seaside Cottages and -Country Houses, together with fourteen Designs for Street and Store -Fronts, with inside finish for Stores and Banks; also Framing for -Dwellings, Barns, Exhibition Buildings, Roofs, Bridges, etc., making -in all a Practical Book for Architects, Builders, Carpenters, and all -who contemplate Building or Remodeling Wood, Stone or Brick Buildings. -One large 4to volume, sent free by mail or express on receipt of price. -Reduced from $10.00 to $6.00. - -=BROWN’S BUILDING TABLE AND ESTIMATE BOOK.= By a Practical Mechanic. For -Carpenters, Builders and Lumber Men. One 8vo volume, cloth, 152 pages. -$1.50. - -=CAMP’S DRAFTSMAN’S MANUAL; or, How Can I Learn Architecture.= By F. T. -CAMP. Containing Hints to Enquirers and Directions in Draftsmanship. -Contents:—Introduction; Preliminary Words; Draftsman’s Outfit; Technics -of Planning; General Remarks on Planning; General Remarks on Exteriors; -Drawing the Plan; Using the Instruments; Designing the Elevations; -Tracing and Inking; Proportion of Rooms. New, Revised and Enlarged -Edition. One small volume, cloth. Price 50c. - -=CUMMINGS’ ARCHITECTURAL DETAILS.= By M. F. CUMMINGS, M. A., Architect, -Associate Author of “Architecture, by Cummings and Miller.” Containing -387 Designs and 967 Illustrations of the Various Parts needed in the -Construction of Buildings, Public and Private, both for the City and -Country; also Plans and Elevations of Houses, Stores, Cottages, and other -Buildings. One large 4to volume, fifty-six Plates. Reduced from $10.00 to -$6.00. - -=GARDNER’S COMMON SENSE IN CHURCH BUILDING.= By E. C. GARDNER, author of -“Homes and How to Make them,” “Illustrated Homes,” and “Home Interiors.” -Illustrated by seven original Plates. One 12mo volume, handsomely bound -in cloth. Price $1.00. - -=GOULD’S CARPENTERS’ AND BUILDERS’ ASSISTANT AND WOODWORKERS’ GUIDE.= -By L. D. GOULD, Architect and Practical Builder. (Fourth Revised -Edition) Containing thirty-six Plates, fully described. Also, Tables -of the Strength of Materials, Length of Braces where the Run is given, -and Length of Run where the Brace is given. Technical Terms used by -Carpenters, etc. This work is intended to combine all the knowledge the -workman requires to construct any design in carpentry by an easy system -of lines. 8vo volume, bound in cloth. Price $2.50. - -=HULME’S TREATISE ON MATHEMATICAL DRAWING INSTRUMENTS, and How to Use -Them.= One imperial 16mo volume, bound in cloth, containing 152 Pages, -and over 70 Illustrations, including 11 different Styles of Lettering. -Price $1.50. - -=HUSSEY’S HOME BUILDING.= This work contains 42 Plates of Designs and -Plans of Dwellings of low and medium cost, with short Descriptive -Specifications, including 2 Designs for Small Barns, 1 Design for -Carriage-House, 1 Design for Small Bank Building, 1 Design for Small -Chapel, and 1 Design for a Church. Nearly 400 pages in all, including -letter-press. Price $2.50. - -=INTERIORS AND INTERIOR DETAILS.= With an Introduction, Description of -Plates, and Notes on Wood Finish, by WM. B. TUTHILL, A. M., Architect, -author of “Practical Lessons in Architectural Drawing.” Fifty-two large -quarto plates, comprising a large number of original designs of Halls, -Staircases, Parlors, Libraries, Dining rooms, etc. Together with special -designs for Low Cost, Medium and Elaborate Wood Mantels, Sideboards, -Furniture, Wood Ceilings, Doors, Door and Window Trims, Wainscots, -Bank Office, and Store Fittings, in Perspective, Elevation and Detail, -making a valuable series of Suggestions for Architects and Architectural -Designers. And a large collection of interior details suited to the -requirements of carpenters, builders and mechanics, reproduced from the -drawings of prominent architects of New York, Boston, Chicago, and other -cities. One large quarto volume, handsomely bound in cloth. Price $7.50. - -=MITCHELL’S STEPPING-STONE TO ARCHITECTURE.= By THOMAS MITCHELL. Nearly -100 engravings. Price 60c. - -=ROSSITER & WRIGHT’S MODERN HOUSE PAINTING.= (New Edition). By E. K. -ROSSITER and F. A. WRIGHT, Architects. Containing 20 colored lithographic -plates, exhibiting the use of color in the Exterior and Interior House -Painting, and embracing examples of simple and elaborate work in plain, -graded and parti-colors. Also the treatment of old style of houses, -together with full descriptive letter press, covering the preparation, -use and application of colors, with special directions applicable to -each example. The whole work offering valuable hints and suggestions on -harmonious color treatment, suitable to every variety of building. One -oblong quarto volume, handsomely bound in cloth. Price $5.00. - -=TUTHILL’S PRACTICAL LESSONS IN ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING; Or, How to Make -the Working Drawings for Buildings.= By WM. B. TUTHILL, A. M., Architect. -44 pages descriptive letter-press, illustrated by 33 full-page plates -(one in colors) and 33 wood-cuts, showing methods of construction and -representation. One large 8vo volume, oblong. Cloth. Price $2.50. - -=WITHERS’ CHURCH ARCHITECTURE.= By FREDERICK CLARK WITHERS. Illustrated -with Plans, Elevations and Views of twenty-one Churches and two School -Houses, Photo-Lithographed from original drawings; also full descriptive -letter-press, which includes numerous engravings on wood, showing -construction and details. One large volume of fifty-one 9 × 10 Plates, -substantially bound in extra cloth. Sent by express to any part of the -United States on receipt of the price $10.00. - - * * * * * - -HINTS ON THE Drainage and Sewerage of Dwellings. - -By WM. PAUL GERHARD, Civil Engineer. - -One 12mo volume. Cloth, Price, $2.50. - -CONTENTS. - - CHAPTER I.—Fresh Air versus Sewer Gas. - ” II.—Necessity of Ventilation in Rooms containing “Modern - Conveniences, and Defective Arrangements of Plumbing - Fixtures.” Figs. 1 to 18. - ” III.—Soil and Waste Pipe System as usually found in Dwellings. - Figs. 19 to 31. - ” IV.—Traps and Systems of Trapping. Figs 32 to 38. - ” V.—Details of Traps. Figs. 39 to 159. - ” VI.—Insecurity of Common Water Seal Traps. Figs. 160 to 164. - ” VII.—Defects in the Plumbing Work of Dwellings. - ” VIII.—Cellar Drains and Drainage of Cellars. Figs. 165 to 169. - ” IX.—Usual Defects of House Drains, Sewer Connections, Privies, - Vaults and Cesspools. Figs. 170 to 181. - ” X.—System of Plumbing as it should be inside a Dwelling. Figs. - 182 to 206. - ” XI.—Plumbing Fixtures. Figs. 207 to 262. - ” XII.—Removal and Disposal of Household Wastes. Figs. 263 to 282. - -_NOTICES OF THE PRESS._ - -Rarely do we find between the covers of one small book more satisfactory -wisdom than is contained in Mr. Wm. Paul Gerhard’s “Drainage and Sewerage -of Dwellings.”... Typographically, the book is all that can be desired, -the binding is elegant, and the illustrations are copious and clear.—_The -Builder._ - -... It contains a large amount of well-digested matter, is copiously -illustrated on almost every page, and written in a clear and direct -style.... We recommend the work to all who are interested in the subject -as a valuable addition to the existing literature on the subject -treated.—_The Sanitary Engineer._ - -Mr. Gerhard again shows his practical acquaintance with sanitary matters -and the best remedies and methods to correct the prevalent evils -connected with the application of this important science in the work -before us. The very presentable manner, in which the author treats his -subject, is by no means the least valuable feature of his literary work -in the direction indicated.—_American Engineer._ - -... While it does not pretend to be an _exhaustive_ treatise on these -subjects, it most certainly possesses a practical value, which is far -superior to many of the larger works on Dwelling House Sanitation. -The author has wisely employed the _pencil_ as well as the pen in the -illustration of his subject. And when we state the fact that there are -282 illustrations (not old ones already used in other works, but mostly -new, fresh and artistic) within the compass of 302 pages, it will be -seen that suggestion and instruction are conveyed in the most direct and -forcible manner.... There is throughout the book a remarkable absence -of any “pet theory,” or of the advertisement of any special “patent”—in -short, it is a book which we should like to see upon the library table of -every physician in the land.—_N. Y. Medical Times._ - -Our readers are already familiar with the thoroughly lucid and practical -style of Mr. Gerhard’s contributions to sanitary works. We commend this -book as a brief manual to all architects, engineers, builders, mechanics, -physicians, sanitarians and householders—to none more than the last.—_The -Sanitarian._ - -We have seen no more thorough, intelligent and convincing discussion -of the important subject of house drainage than Mr. Wm. Paul Gerhard’s -“Hints on the Drainage and Sewerage of Dwellings.”—_Literary World._ - -A volume on domestic economy, well worth examination, is _Hints on the -Drainage and Sewerage of Dwellings_, by Wm. Paul Gerhard, C. E., a 16mo. -of about 300 pages, which states clearly the correct principles and -methods, shows by copious intelligible diagrams the ordinary variations, -neglects and defects, and contains in large variety and full detail, -descriptions and drawings of the means and appliances that may be relied -on, and the principle of their construction and operation. For full, -intelligent treatment of all questions involved, both in theory and -practice, relating to the causes of trouble, the theories involved in -their treatment, and the mechanical appliances available, this is the -very best condensed manual that has yet appeared.—_The Independent._ - -This valuable little manual consists of articles from “Building,” revised -and extended, and will be found of much service by builders, architects, -physicians and householders.... It would be a good idea for every head -of a family to examine the sanitary state of his or her surroundings, -with this book as a guide.... So also, those intending to lease or buy -new houses, would find the price of the work an ounce of prevention which -could not be better expended. Mr. Gerhard is an experienced engineer, -well read in sanitary literature, and a clear and careful writer.—_The -Christian Union._ - - * * * * * - -“BUILDING.” - -AN ARCHITECTURAL MONTHLY. - -Subscription, $1.00 per Year, in advance. Single Copies, 10 cts. - -Treating on all matters of interest to the Building trades. _Each number -contains 4 full-page lithographic plates._ With the February number will -commence a series of articles on Roof Construction, fully illustrated, -by Prof. N. CLIFFORD RICKER, of the Illinois Industrial University. -The _Competition Designs for a $2,500 Cottage_ are now in course of -publication. - -Samples sent on application. Special inducements will be offered those -wishing to get up clubs; _send for club rates_. - -“SPECIAL ILLUSTRATED EDITION OF BUILDING.” - -DEVOTED TO ARCHITECTURE, FURNITURE, DECORATION AND ORNAMENT. - -_PUBLISHED MONTHLY._ - -Subscription, $5 a Year in advance. Single Copies, 50c. - -It is intended to make this a most elaborate and complete architectural -journal. It will be issued in a handsome cover, and contain in addition -to the contents of the regular issue of “BUILDING,” a large number of -Lithographic Plates, a special feature of which will be the republication -of the best designs selected from the _leading foreign journals_, so that -subscribers for this monthly will obtain the _cream_ of all the _foreign -publications_ on these subjects. - -Each number contains _16 full-page lithographic plates_. - -PRESS NOTICES - -Of “BUILDING,” and the “SPECIAL ILLUSTRATED EDITION OF BUILDING.” - -It is not often that so much and so valuable material is found at one -time in a trade journal.—_The Publishers’ Weekly._ - -In its specialty this journal cannot fail to be of the greatest service, -and all persons interested in building should avail themselves of its -store of valuable information.—_Bookseller and Stationer._ - -The magazine is well edited, and must prove very interesting to those -interested in building.—_American Machinist._ - -Mr. Comstock is to be congratulated upon the contents and general -appearance of his Special Illustrated Edition of BUILDING. We have no -doubt this new venture will be appreciated by the architectural and -building public.—_Engineering News._ - -The first number of the second volume of BUILDING, an excellent -architectural monthly, has just made its appearance. It is full of -instructive matter, and the illustrations are numerous, well executed and -interesting.—_The Evening Telegram._ - -For an architect or builder, this publication cannot fail to be of great -and continual interest.—_The New York World._ - -We are in receipt of BUILDING. It bears eloquent testimony to -eminent literary, as well as artistic talent, connected with its -publication.—_Chemical Review._ - -“BUILDING” begins its second volume with a special number filled with a -rich array of illustrations.... Persons who desire a monthly magazine, -devoted to the circle of arts, included under the title of building, will -do well to examine this work.—_Home Journal._ - -One of the handsomest and best architectural papers among our exchanges -is BUILDING. Well illustrated, printed and edited, treating on all -matters of interest to the building trade.—_Wood and Iron._ - -We most heartily congratulate Mr. Comstock on the fine appearance of -BUILDING, and feel confident he will meet with the success his energy and -enterprise deserves.—_American Real Estate Guide._ - -In the richness of contents, beauty of illustrations, the current number -of BUILDING is a decided credit to American journalism.—_Trade Review and -Western Machinist._ - -The value to the architect and builder cannot be overestimated, and the -price, five dollars a year, is a merely nominal consideration for the -subjects of interest and instruction it possesses.—_Lumber Trade Journal._ - -Very attractive in appearance, and is well worthy of liberal -patronage.—_American Engineer._ - -Nothing finer in its way has been offered to the public.—_The Mechanical -News._ - -The illustrations are very artistic.—_The Sanitary News._ - -The number before us is in itself a complete book on building and kindred -subjects.—_Chattanooga Daily Times._ - -We commend the BUILDING to our students, amateurs and professors in -architecture and building.—_Ithaca Daily Journal._ - -It is without doubt the most valuable publication of the kind published -in the country.—_Southern Lumberman._ - -One of the best architectural periodicals of the day is BUILDING.—_The -Christian Union._ - -BUILDING, an architectural monthly.... This new claimant for public favor -well deserves it.... Every number is worth the subscription price to any -who have interest in building, old or new.—_Living Church, Chicago._ - -_Persons sending 50c. for sample copy of the “SPECIAL ILLUSTRATED EDITION -OF BUILDING” will receive a receipt entitling them to the remaining -numbers for the year on receipt of $4.50, provided their subscription is -received within 60 days thereafter._ - -[Illustration: _Miniature Illustration. Selected from the “Special -Illustrated Edition of Building.”_] - -Subscription, $5.00 per Year. Single Copies, 50 cents. - -[Illustration: _Miniature Illustration. Selected from “Building.”_] - -Subscription, $1.00 per Year. Single Copies, 10 cents. - -WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, Publisher, 6 Astor Place, NEW YORK. - -[Illustration: _Miniature Illustration. Selected from “Building.”_] - -BUILDING. - -Regular Edition, $1.00 per Year. - -Special Illustrated Edition, $5.00 per Year. - -WM. T. COMSTOCK, Publisher, 6 Astor Place, N. Y. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Lincrusta-Walton_ - -THE New Indestructible AND Imperishable Decoration FOR WALLS AND -CEILINGS, FURNITURE AND ART OBJECTS. - -_Lincrusta-Walton_] - -[Illustration: WAINSCOTING IN LINCRUSTA-WALTON.] - -The Designs. - -Lincrusta-Walton is the refinement of all previous systems of decoration. -The designs are of a high order of artistic merit, making the material -the most perfect and beautiful of all coverings for Walls and Ceilings. - -The Material - -is water-proof. Durable as the wall. Has many _sanitary advantages_. As -easy to hang as wall paper. - -Cost. - -The price is quite moderate, and its durability renders its use -economical. - -New Buildings - -can be permanently decorated at once, as Lincrusta-Walton is unaffected -by moisture, and excludes damp. Now in general use in Public Buildings -and Private Dwellings, Hotels, Offices, and the homes of the people. Sold -by all Decorators, Furniture, Wall Paper and Art Dealers throughout the -United States. _Send for Descriptive Pamphlet._ - -FR. BECK & CO. Manufacturers of Fine Wall Papers, Corner 29th Street and -7th Avenue, N. Y. - -The only Manufacturers of Lincrusta-Walton in the United States under the -patents. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: H. W. JOHNS’ ASBESTOS LIQUID PAINTS] - -Our liquid paints _are composed exclusively of the best and purest -materials combined on different principles from any other Liquid or Mixed -Paints_. They have been thoroughly tested in nearly all parts of the -world and have been found to withstand the severest tests of climatic -changes, sea air and other trying exposures, where the best white lead -has failed, and the universal testimony of those who have used them is -sufficient proof of our claims that they are in every respect _strictly -reliable and first-class paints of a higher grade_ than have ever before -been offered to the public for structural purposes, either in “paste” -or liquid form, and second to none in richness and permanency of color, -beauty of finish, durability, uniformity, and all characteristics which -are requisite to form a perfect ornamental protective covering. - -_Our paints are sold by U.S. Standard Gallon measure (231 cubic inches); -i.e., our packages contain, from 8 to 12 per cent. more paint than is -usually sold for the same quantity, and they weigh from 10 to 20 per -cent. more to the gallon than any others in the market._ ONE GALLON WILL -COVER FROM 225 TO 250 SQUARE FEET, TWO COATS. - -We manufacture forty-eight shades of “body” and trimming colors, and also -make Standard and Light Greens, Light and Dark Blues, Reds, Black, etc., -samples of which will be supplied on application. - -The finest and most extensive structures in this country are painted -with these paints, among them, the U.S. Capitol at Washington; Light -Houses and Life Saving Stations; U.S. Custom House at Chicago; Navy Yard -Buildings; Metropolitan Elevated R. R; Oriental and Manhattan Beach -Hotels; the “Argyle” and Cottages at Babylon; Hygeia Hotel, Fortress -Monroe; Thousand Islands House; Crossman House; Forest Hill House, -Franconia, N. H.; Sinclair House, Bethlehem, N. H.; Fort Point House, -Stockton, Me.; Pequot House and Cottages, New London, Conn.; Appledore -House, Isle of Shoals; the “Dakota,” New York City, and thousands of -other public and private buildings. - -Our pamphlet on - -“STRUCTURAL DECORATION” - -_Will be sent free by mail on application._ - - * * * * * - -ROOF, CAR AND BRIDGE PAINTS - -These paints possess a more elastic body than any other, and are less -liable to injury. They are prepared ready for use, and have proven to -be the most economical paints ever produced for similar purposes. 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