diff options
77 files changed, 17 insertions, 8261 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..58cb414 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #67922 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/67922) diff --git a/old/67922-0.txt b/old/67922-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index b94fc84..0000000 --- a/old/67922-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3539 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Cottages, by Wm. Paul Gebhart - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Cottages - or, Hints on Economical Building - -Author: Wm. Paul Gebhart - -Editor: A. W. Brunner - -Release Date: April 25, 2022 [eBook #67922] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Charlene Taylor and the Online Distributed Proofreading - Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from - images generously made available by The Internet - Archive/American Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COTTAGES *** - - -[Illustration: Perspective Sketch of Bungalow (with Attic) - -(See Plate 17) - -Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.] - - - - - COTTAGES - OR - HINTS ON ECONOMICAL BUILDING - - CONTAINING - - TWENTY-FOUR PLATES OF MEDIUM AND LOW COST HOUSES, - CONTRIBUTED BY DIFFERENT NEW YORK ARCHITECTS. - - TOGETHER WITH - DESCRIPTIVE LETTERPRESS, - GIVING - PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS FOR COTTAGE BUILDING. - - COMPILED AND EDITED BY - A. W. BRUNNER, ARCH’T. - - TO WHICH IS ADDED - - A CHAPTER ON - - THE WATER SUPPLY, DRAINAGE, SEWERAGE, HEATING AND - VENTILATION, AND OTHER SANITARY QUESTIONS - RELATING TO COUNTRY HOUSES. - - BY - WM. PAUL GERHARD, C. E. - - 1884. - NEW YORK: - WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, - 6 ASTOR PLACE. - - COPYRIGHT, - 1884. - WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK. - - - - -[Illustration: Preface] - - -The aim of this little book is simply to offer a few hints and -suggestions to those about to build, or those interested in building, and -to present a series of designs of low-cost cottages. - -These designs were made, by request, by different New York architects who -have turned their attention to the subject. In view of the rapid growth -of “Art Ideas,” and the great improvement in taste that has taken place -during the last few years, it is believed that there is a demand for -dwellings reasonable in cost yet artistic and home-like. - - - - -ARCHITECTS WHOSE DESIGNS ARE CONTAINED IN THIS BOOK. - - - Mr. WM. A. BATES, 149 Broadway, New York. - Mr. CHAS. I. BERG, 152 Fifth Avenue, New York. - Mr. A. W. BRUNNER, 29 Union Square, New York. - Mr. JAS. D. HUNTER, Jr., 57 Broadway, New York. - Mess. ROSSITER & WRIGHT, 149 Broadway, New York. - Mr. THOS. TRYON, 152 Fifth Avenue, New York. - Mr. WM. B. TUTHILL, 52 Broadway, New York. - Mr. FRANK F. WARD, 59 Astor House, New York. - Mr. FRED. B. WHITE, 294 Broadway, New York. - - - - -[Illustration: Cottages - -HINTS ON ECONOMICAL BUILDING] - - -I. - -During the past few years our conception of what a country house should -be, has entirely changed. Simplicity, elegance and refinement of design -are demanded, and outward display, overloading with cheap ornamentation, -is no longer in favor. - -Naturally the more expensive houses were the first to get the benefit of -the architectural inspiration drawn largely from England. But now that -English gables and dormers have spread so widely, now that we realize the -beauty of our own colonial architecture, and that the Queen Anne craze -is subsiding, so that only its best features remain, the less ambitious -dwellings must not be left to the mercy of those builders whose ideas of -beauty are limited to scroll-saw brackets and French roofs. It is our -intention, in presenting a number of designs for country houses, to show -what can be done with simple means, and to give sketches of cottages that -may meet the wants of many who desire inexpensive homes which shall be at -the same time cosy and picturesque. - -It must be stated, however, that all we can hope to do in the compass -of this little volume is to give some hints on building and offer a few -suggestions and ideas which may be of value to those about to build. It -is by no means claimed that the drawings here given are sufficient for -constructing the houses. Proper working drawings are a much more serious -affair, and should in all cases be prepared by an architect. This is as -important for a cottage as for a mansion. - -It seems hardly necessary to enlarge upon the importance of an -architect’s services, since that is now generally recognized. Sensible -people, when they are ill, consult a physician and not an apothecary; and -when they wish to plan a house, they take the advice of an architect and -not a builder. Both apothecary and builder are of course necessary, but -they must be wisely directed or they may be dangerous indeed. - -In this “intensely new world,” as Matthew Arnold calls it, we have not -yet had time to pay much attention to our simpler kind of dwellings. One -can say but little for the majority of our cottages beyond that they give -us shelter from the sun, rain and wind. The quaint interest, the great -beauty of old European towns, are so marked, that we would do well to -remember that each of the houses in their picturesque old streets was -evidently built to suit the special tastes and requirements of its owner. -At present, the fashion is set; and, while it lasts, all cottages are -built to suit. The fashion changes and the next batch of cottages must -come up to the new standard. Now, ready-made houses, like ready-made -clothes, _may_ fit, but the conditions of house-planning are complex and -the requirements are many and varied. The house in which we live should -have some individuality, and not be a mere duplicate of our neighbor’s -dwelling. We do not care to confess that we are exactly like other -people. Of course we are not. We may not wish to be considered eccentric -or “funny,” but we do flatter ourselves that we have some ideas of our -own; so our home, if it is to be a home, must be planned just to suit our -habits. Regarding the exterior appearance, that, to a certain extent at -least, will proclaim both the disposition of the interior and its inmates. - -Now the intelligent client will of course consult a competent architect, -but being intelligent, he and Mrs. Client will first talk it all over -very carefully, and after discussing the matter thoroughly will decide -upon just what they need. When a decision has been arrived at, they will -go to Mr. Architect and tell him their wants, and he will proceed, to the -best of his ability, to solve the problem. This solution he presents in -the form of plans, elevations and sections, which is his way of showing -how he intends to fulfill the conditions imposed. But Mr. and Mrs. Client -may not find it such an easy matter to decide upon what they ought to -have. Building a house is generally a new experience, and many and vexed -are the questions that arise. Being a bright, well-informed couple, with -ideas of their own, they wisely decide to think it out for themselves and -not to tell the disciple of Sir Christopher Wren to make them “something -real pretty—you know what we want—and we’ll call to-morrow to see the -drawings.” - -No, they know better than that. It is for them to say _what_ they want; -and _how_ it is to be done, is the architect’s province. So, to help -the worthy couple in their deliberations, we will mention some of the -points to be considered in building a country home, only touching upon -them, however; for volumes might be, and indeed have been, written on the -numberless considerations that present themselves. A little thought and -time spent before commencing to build may avoid a great deal of trouble -and regret when it is too late to effect alterations. Even when the -house is in the course of erection, changes are unduly expensive, as one -deviation from the plans is likely to entail another. The superficial -knowledge people have of their own houses is often surprising, and it -would be well for Mrs. Client to examine critically her present dwelling, -while Mr. C. takes a few measurements of some of the rooms. This will -bring their ideas of dimensions to a more definite shape and greatly aid -them to fully understand a set of plans. - - -II. - -The first thing to be decided is where the cottage shall be placed. For -a castle in Spain, any picturesque spot would do, nor need we choose it -until our castle is quite complete. But for a real house, one that will -keep out the cold and keep in the heat, one that will be comfortable to -live in and presumably beautiful to look at, one that is subject to many -practical as well as artistic conditions, we will proceed to select the -prettiest piece of ground in the healthiest neighborhood we can find. - -Healthy—of course. Better not build at all than make our house the -abiding-place of malaria. So we will carefully avoid marshy or -ill-drained ground. Sandy or gravelly soil is good. Clay is bad. A -side-hill has many advantages and affords opportunity for something -picturesque. We need not fear it, for a broad trench dug deep as our -cellar, and running obliquely back of the house, will leave us high and -dry. If we are sensible rather than ambitious, we will not choose the -summit of a hill. Sooner be a little lower down on the slope, securing -shelter from the wind and a readier water supply. The question of site -is an important one, and much depends on a wise selection. Even a small -lot offers some choice, and a few feet in either direction may avoid damp -cellars and future fevers. - -But if we have a wider choice, let us exercise it well, and secure a -position where we can study nature in her varying moods and enjoy her -beauty. Let us be surrounded by meadows and flowers and trees. Trees by -all means. Not too near, or we may shut out sunlight and secure dampness -instead; but trees are good neighbors, and we owe them grateful shade in -summer and shelter from winter storms. A stately oak and a few graceful -maples, or perhaps some faithful evergreens, will take away the barren -and forlorn appearance a house often presents when standing quite alone. -A little terracing and grading, besides helping to shed the surface -water, often give the building the appearance of being well and firmly -placed. - -Care will of course be taken to see that an abundant supply of pure water -is obtainable; to decide its quality a few preliminary borings should be -made. - -Having roughly chosen the position and driven a stake in the site, we -must decide in which direction our house shall face. The living rooms -should look to the south or south-east, as they will be cooler in summer, -receiving the southern breezes, and warmer in winter—and always cheerful. -Next to a southern exposure an eastern one is best. We must consider how -the grounds shall be laid out, the approaches to the house, position of -the public road, and proximity of objectionable neighbors. Our friend -Mr. Architect will want to know all this and more too. He will ask you -from what directions come the prevailing winds, what is the character -of the scenery, and whether there is any choice of prospect, or our pet -view will stand in danger of being wasted on blank walls, or visible only -from the kitchen. Then, after telling him how much we wish to spend, he -will be in a condition intelligently to go to work and plan the house. A -thorough understanding between architect and client is most desirable. - - -III. - -“A history of house-planning is the history of civilization, one of -the best means by which we can realize the social condition and family -life of successive times,” says Stephenson in his interesting book on -House Architecture. The gradual change in the arrangement of dwellings -indicates most clearly the development of what we call civilized ideas. - -In all important houses in the Middle Ages, the Hall, which was -frequently an immense apartment, was the chief feature. To quote -Stephenson again, “It was in reality the house, and hence (in England) -country houses are still called Halls.” The ends were screened off by -wooden partitions, the kitchen at one side, the private apartments at -the other. The Hall was used as a dining-room and sitting-room, and the -household would sleep there, both tables and beds being movable. Later, -the tendency arose to have separate apartments for different purposes, -and the number of rooms in a house multiplied. In modern planning strict -privacy is essential, and each room must be accessible from the halls and -stairways. As soon as a room becomes a mere passage to another, it loses -its chief value. The arrangement of a house is, to a certain degree, -influenced by considerations of exterior effect, but use and comfort are -of prime importance. In the so-called “classic” houses, where symmetry -was imperative, convenience of plan was often sacrificed. - -A well-studied plan is characterized by compactness and the absence of -any visible make-shifts or after-thoughts. Everything fits well and seems -in its natural place. - -A rectangular house is the cheapest and best, the octagonal and circular -forms are better adapted for bays or projections only. Very irregular -and straggling plans may produce picturesque results, but are sure to be -comparatively expensive. A square house has always been a favorite with -many practical-minded people. It is such a “sensible” shape and cuts up -well into rooms. True, a given length of line, as a square, encloses -a greater area than in any other rectangular form, so we get the most -house for our materials and money. Still, we will probably find that, -after arranging our plan, considering comfort and convenience alone, -it will not result in a mathematical square; but, if it be compact and -capable of being simply roofed, we need not reproach ourselves with undue -extravagance. - -All space occupied in passages and corridors, increasing the size but not -the capacity of the building, is wasted. - -Light and air are, we know, essentials of life. Let us not forget it in -planning our house. Dark passages and stairways should not be tolerated. - -In our cities, where land is very expensive, and the houses which often -cover nearly the entire building lot are crowded closely together, many -expedients have to be adopted to render the inner rooms habitable. -Light-shafts are used, and rooms often receive only borrowed light by -means of glass doors or partitions. In country houses these methods are -inexcusable. Fresh air and the light of day should have access to every -nook and corner. - - -IV. - -In our modern houses the hall is generally a mere narrow passage -connecting the rooms, and only large enough to contain the staircase. -Lately there has been a tendency to give the hall greater prominence; -and, as many of the plans in this book show, it may be made a most -desirable sitting-room, by adding a few feet to what before was almost -waste space. It may have an open fire-place and some little nook arranged -with a seat. The stairs may be partly or wholly screened, a treatment -giving opportunities for a picturesque effect. Let us have plenty of -light on our staircase, and plan it so that even at night one is not -liable to stumble. “Winders,” that is to say, steps which radiate at -the corners, are to be avoided as much as possible, for it is easy to -slip on the narrow end. Do not try to have your stairs in a single run. -Platforms, which should be square, form a convenient rest. For ordinary -stairs the risers may be 7½ inches, and treads 10 inches. If the risers -are less, the treads must be proportionally greater. The old rule of a 6 -inch riser and 12 inch tread is almost too luxurious, and when the risers -are less than 6 inches they become actually uncomfortable and tiresome. -If newels are used, as they are in the better class of work, have the -tops rounded, and let there be no sharp angles that would be disagreeable -to the touch. - -The dining-room should have an eastern or north-eastern exposure, so that -it may receive the cheerful rays of the morning sun. A western outlook is -undesirable, for at sunset the “western waves of ebbing day” will flood -the apartment, making it necessary to close the shutters, excluding the -air and leaving the room in darkness. 11 feet in width is sufficient to -admit of chairs on both sides of the table, with space for a servant to -pass around, but a larger room is desirable. - -The kitchen should be near the dining-room. It may be in the basement, -and if the house is on a side hill this is a good arrangement, as the -kitchen may then be entirely above ground. In some of the Southern -States it is the custom to separate the kitchen entirely from the house, -thereby avoiding all the smell and heat of cooking. It is a good plan -for summer cottages to have the kitchen in a wing by itself, even if -not disconnected with the rest of the house. In a small house, where -the dining-room and kitchen must be placed next to each other, a pantry -with doors not opposite each other, between the rooms, will do much to -intercept odors and noises. - -A sitting-room or living-room should be bright and cheerful. Let it have -the benefit of any good view that the situation of the house may command. -Give it broad, generous windows, admitting plenty of light and sunshine. -Sunshine may not be good for the carpets, but you are not building the -house for them, and the health and cheerfulness of the inmates are the -first consideration. If carpets will fade we may use matting, which is -now obtainable in good designs and excellent colors. Or let us have good -honest wood floors oiled or waxed, for they need not be very expensive. -Then with a pretty rug, perhaps, in the middle of the room, we secure -greater cleanliness than is possible with a carpet, and need not be -afraid of the light of day, two points which should help to decrease our -doctors’ bills. In providing for light it is better to have one large -window than two small ones. A broad casement with a window-seat, or a -three-sided or semi-circular bay, with room for a few flowers, or perhaps -a small work-table and chairs, will be a delightful feature. - -In the pride of our heart we may want a parlor, or drawing-room, as our -English cousins would call it. - -Well, let us have it if we must, for hospitality is a virtue to be -cherished. But true hospitality consists in giving our friends what we -deem to be our best. Now a parlor that is kept for state occasions and -is such a prim, formal room, that everything in it is too awfully nice -to touch, is not a place where true friendship is likely to flourish. If -we need another apartment for our guests, let it merely be an extension -of our sitting-room. The room we occupy most will be the pleasantest in -the house, as we will naturally surround ourselves with the objects we -love best. But the spirit of cheerfulness and cosiness should pervade the -entire house, and the selection we make of books, pictures and ornaments, -will do much towards giving a room a friendly or unfriendly aspect. - -In a large country-house a separate room for a library is convenient, -also a breakfast or morning-room, and a billiard-room, is a luxury to be -enjoyed, if possible. If we can manage it, a nursery, where the children -can make a noise and have a real good time without shocking anybody’s -nerves, will be found a great comfort. Give the little ones space, where -they can romp to their hearts’ content, a large, sunny room, with broad -windows and a big fire-place, a room with nothing in it that will spoil -by contact with little hands, and you will contribute much to their -happiness. - -If we can contrive a little retreat or “den” in some out-of-the-way -corner of the house, it may be well, for, although man is a social -animal, “solitude sometimes is best society.” - -Many of us will appreciate a little sanctum entered by one door only, -where we can leave our books and papers, having the sweet satisfaction -that they will remain undisturbed. - -The bed-rooms should be specially light, airy and well ventilated. -Space must be left for the bed, a consideration which, if overlooked in -the plan, may make it necessary to put the bed in front of a window or -against a closet door. - -The arrangement of doors and windows requires particular attention, and a -little care in regard to this will contribute much to comfort. A certain -amount of wall-surface should always be left, or there will be no place -to put the furniture—a fault often found in our houses, and productive -of much discomfort. Every bed-room should have a closet, and, indeed, an -abundance of closets is necessary, it being hardly possible to have too -many of them. One for coats, in the front hall, one for linen, one for -stores, and a good-sized pantry for the kitchen, are dear to the heart of -a housekeeper. - -No house should be without a bath-room, large and conveniently located. -Care must be taken that the plumbing apparatus is not exposed to the -cold, or the pipes will freeze in winter. The matter of ventilation -and construction of the plumbing work, is ably discussed in a separate -article devoted to that and other sanitary questions. - - -V. - -Doors are generally hung according to the sweet will of the carpenter, -but there are two ways to hang a door, one so as to expose the room, -the other so as to screen it. The first may be good for the more public -rooms, but, in regard to bed-rooms, the doors must swing so that, when -partly open, they will shield the apartment from view. Closet doors -should be hung so that the closet may receive light from the nearest -window. Doors are sometimes made to swing out on stair landings or halls, -and who has not seen two doors so placed that they strike each other when -opened? It is hardly necessary to say that these methods should not be -adopted. - -The question of how to heat a house is discussed at length elsewhere, -but from the point of beauty, cheerfulness and comfort, we must enter -a plea for the open fire-place. It may be troublesome to keep clean, -although this may be obviated by an ash-shoot to the cellar. We admit -that the open fire-place is wasteful, as two-thirds of the heat goes up -the chimney. And then most of the foul air in the room goes with it, -and we have the best and surest ventilating flue yet devised. But the -cheerful appearance, the crackling of the logs, the sparkling embers, -the ruddy flames twisting themselves into fantastic shapes—are these -worth nothing to us? Contrast a roaring fire of hickory logs, blazing on -a broad brick hearth, with the dismal hole in the floor or wall covered -with a cast-iron register. The cricket on the hearth is a little out of -fashion now, and with it has gone the sense of comfort that the broad, -picturesque chimney-piece always gave. Open fire-places alone are often -insufficient in our climate, and furnaces are extremely useful for -heating the halls and the house generally; but to rely on their heat -entirely excludes one of the features which make home more home-like. -The fire-place should be in a position so as to admit of a group sitting -around it; it should not stand between two doors, for instance. A -little nook or seat may be contrived next to it, making a cosy corner -in the room. Chimney-stacks can be combined if the house be judiciously -planned, and a saving of expense effected. The plans in Plates VI, X and -XVII, show how one stack can serve three rooms on the same floor with -fire-places, and in the case of the double houses all the designs show -that this method of saving expense has been adopted. Chimneys must be -carefully built of good, hard brick, laid in cement mortar, the flues -straight and smooth and of uniform size. To allow of better arrangement -in the upper floors, the flues may be safely drawn on one side to at -least 30° from the perpendicular. There must always be at least 8 inches -of brick work when the chimney-stack comes in contact with any wood-work. - -Every house should have a cellar with stone or brick walls and cement -floors. And it is of the utmost importance that the cellar be dry. To -insure this, the greatest care should be given to the _outside_ finish -of the walls—reversing the usual practice of carefully finishing the -interior, and on the exterior allowing the rough edges of stone to -project and form little courses and channels through which the moisture -will pass. In case the cellar extends only under part of the house, the -rest of the walls should be supported upon brick piers, only filled -in between with wooden lattice, giving free access to the air, thus -preventing dampness and rotting of timbers. - -If the reader desires to study construction, or intends to superintend -the building of his own house, he cannot do better than consult Mr. T. M. -Clark’s book on “Building Superintendence.” The standard of workmanship -that it gives may be a little too high for cheap work, otherwise it is an -extremely useful volume. - - -VI. - -Planning has been called a series of compromises, and in fact we will -nearly always find it impossible to secure all we desire. Something -must be sacrificed, and the best plan is the one that fulfills the most -important requirements at the expense of the minor ones. After securing -the proper relative arrangement of rooms, their exposure may be wrong, -or the chimneys will not combine. We secure an economical combination of -chimneys and find that the doors come “all wrong,” and the staircase is -crowded to one side. Then the shape of the rooms is ugly, the veranda -seems only possible in front of the kitchen, the entrance porch faces the -north, and there is no way of getting to the cellar. - -These little difficulties overcome, we find that we cannot get up-stairs, -and even if we could, the rooms in the upper floors come just as we do -not want them, and the hall will be dark. Then we will begin all over -again. The amateur must not be disheartened if this is the result of -his first attempt to plan a house. The best and seemingly most simple -arrangement of rooms is generally the result of the most study. - -In planning, as in many other things, the simplest is often the best, -and what appears so satisfactory and looks as if it were quite the -most obvious thing to do, was probably arrived at only after much -consideration and thought. - -Irregularities in our plan may be turned to account and picturesque and -useful features result, but they must come naturally and not be forced, -or they will give the appearance of striving to be eccentric. - -It is a comparatively easy matter to plan a house which is intended -exclusively for summer or for winter occupancy. But in those sections of -the country where we have successively samples of every conceivable kind -of weather, and we wish to build a permanent residence, the difficulties -are numerous. - -During part of the year we need broad verandas, large windows and doors -so arranged that we can get a current of air through the rooms. The heat -from the kitchen distresses us, and the refrigerator is regarded with -more affection than the fireplace. In a few months the veranda only -serves to shut out the precious sunlight, and double sashes for the -windows may be desirable to keep out the cold too easily admitted by the -doors. We draw close to the hearth, piled high with blazing logs, and -rejoice that the slight heat from the kitchen chimney is not wasted on -the outer air. - -Fortunately, what keeps out the heat keeps out the cold—or rather keeps -in the heat—and walls constructed so as to keep the house warm in winter -will keep it cool in summer. - -The veranda is a particularly American feature, and should be encouraged, -not only because it is American, but because it is a great comfort and -a sensible contrivance. Let it be broad and low, to keep out the sun’s -rays; let it be large enough for plenty of chairs and a work table, and -perhaps a rattan sofa or a hammock, and during the long summer months it -will be a most delightful retreat. - -Even in winter the veranda serves to keep the wind, sleet and snow from -our windows, and so contributes a little warmth if it does rob us of some -sunlight. It can be so constructed that it may be enclosed in winter, but -it is difficult to heat, even if the cellar extended beneath it. - - -VII. - -Materials of all kinds have been used for building, but for our purpose -only stone, brick and wood are suitable, and mud, papier-maché, glass, -iron, and many others need not be considered. Stone is the favorite for -all monumental buildings, but it may be occasionally used to advantage -in low-cost country houses. If it must be brought from a distance, and -is to be cut, tooled and dressed, it will be much beyond the average -cottager’s means. But when found in the immediate vicinity and laid in -irregular courses “just as it comes,” with the corners squared off only -enough to make good joints, we shall get excellent effects without great -expense. It is well to use it only for the first story of the house, as -shown on Plate XII. If cut stone lintels and jambs are too costly, we -may use brick, either red or buff, selecting the one which harmonizes -best with the color of the stone. The doors and windows in this case will -be arched and not square-headed. Stone walls need not be very thick—18 -inches will be ample—and they need not be damp if properly furred, -leaving an airspace. - -Frequently use large stones, the entire thickness of the wall, as -“binders,” and leave the natural surface as much as possible. Then, if -the stones are well selected, we shall have a beautiful surface, whose -color, softened by that of mosses and lichens, and partly covered by the -creeping ivy, will become more beautiful and mellow with age. - -Brick is a most valuable building material, wonderfully durable, as the -remains of the old Roman buildings testify, and fire-proof, as often -demonstrated. To the minds of many, brick suggests all the ugliness -of the immense crop of buildings that has sprung up in our American -cities—buildings with wondrous painted and sanded cornices and window -caps, with a front pierced with regularly spaced square-headed openings. -But the builder and not the material is at fault, for as countless -European examples show us, brick can be used with most excellent effect. -Bricks are now made in many shapes, and good mouldings can be obtained -for cornices, belt courses, etc. - -Then terra-cotta, which is nothing more than its name implies, baked -earth, or brick in other forms, comes to our aid, and we have ornamental -panels, columns, pilasters, voussoirs and all sorts of architectural -finery. For small cottages we may use brick laid in red mortar, combining -it with wood, and perhaps some of the simpler mouldings, with a -terra-cotta panel or two, to give character to the design. - -Wood is the material that will commend itself, as being the cheapest for -building country houses, needing only a light foundation and being easily -handled. The old “half timbered” houses give us suggestions for a most -picturesque treatment. In these buildings the frame is exposed and filled -in with brick or stucco, producing an excellent effect. In the north of -France, where rain is abundant, the exposed wood is sometimes covered -with slate. This method of construction is adapted to our climate, but -brick is better for filling in than plaster or stucco, which is likely -to be affected by our severe frosts. Clapboards and shingles are both -excellent. The shingles may be cut in different shapes, or irregularly -laid, giving a variety of surface. Tiles, which are more durable but more -expensive, may be substituted. Battened houses, that is, houses faced -with vertical boards, the joints of which are covered by narrow strips of -wood or “battens,” are not recommended. - - -VIII. - -The first four plates in this book show designs for the simplest kind -of cottages. Strict economy has been observed, and the arrangement is -as compact as possible, no space being wasted. The first has two rooms -on a floor—the living-room containing the stairs. The roof is unbroken, -overhanging enough to cover the bay, and merely extending to form the -porch. Plates II, III and IV show a separate hall for the stairs, and -closets and pantry are provided. In one case the upper floor contains -two large rooms, in the others, four smaller chambers. Plate III shows -the kitchen and living-room separated by a pantry with two doors, and -in the next design, communication between these rooms is had through -the hall, an arrangement quite suitable for such a small house. Nothing -could be plainer, or more straight-forward, than the plans and exterior -treatment of these four cottages, and the result is interesting in -showing that even the simplest house may be planned with some reference -to comfort, and a pleasing exterior expression attained without the least -ornamentation. - -Plates V, VI and VII, give designs for slightly larger cottages, with -three rooms on the first floor. The roofs are boldly treated, and in -Plate V we see the picturesque effect obtained by an exterior chimney. -This design also shows an effective treatment of windows in the -sitting-room, and a broad low veranda covered by a continuation of the -main roof. Designs VI and VII are two six-room cottages very compactly -planned; the exteriors show clapboards on the first-story, and shingles -above. - -Plate VIII gives a cottage without a kitchen (there is space for it -if desired), which may be built in connection with a hotel. This is -becoming a favorite way of living during the summer, the inmates of the -cottage taking their meals at the hotel, and thus much of the trouble of -housekeeping is avoided. Several of the plans in this book could be used -in a similar way; the space for kitchen devoted to other uses or omitted -entirely. In this plan the two rooms on the first floor open into each -other, making practically one large airy apartment, which, with the shady -veranda in front, is an arrangement well adapted for warm weather. - -In Plate IX we have a small seven-room house. The sitting-room has a -large fire-place with seats at the side, screened by an arch or transom, -and making a pleasant little nook. - -Plate X is a design of a picturesque cottage which shows in plan a nearly -square hall with a fire-place, opening into a broad piazza. At a little -extra expense the small bed-room on the second floor could be made -wider, or a bath-room added to advantage. - -The plan of Plate XI provides an entrance hall or vestibule, which will -be of special use if the house is occupied in winter. The side door opens -into the end of the main hall, and the arrangement of rooms is well -studied. The overhanging gables have a bold effect, and the materials -used are the same as in nearly all the preceding designs. - -Plate XII gives plans and elevations for a house, the first story -of which is to be built of stone—the second of wood. The stone is -irregularly laid, the rough surface contrasting well with the shingles -above. The plan provides for six good-sized rooms with plenty of closets. - -In Plate XIII we have a house planned so that the two main rooms on each -floor are exposed on three sides, an arrangement which, if the size and -shape of the lot permits, is good for a summer residence. The treatment -of exterior also indicates this use. - -Plate XIV gives a design for a seven-room cottage, with a wide hall and -a bath-room. The kitchen is conveniently placed, both in regard to the -dining-room and front door. The balcony in the second story adds to the -exterior effect by giving more shadow to the front. - -Plate XV is a design for a sea-side cottage. The hall is so arranged that -the stairs are screened, thus making a little vestibule. The dining-room -and parlor are only divided by an arch, and may be separated by a -portière or thrown into one large room, while the veranda gives the shade -so desirable at the sea-shore. - -Plate XVI shows a picturesque house broadly treated. The second story -overhangs the first, covering the piazza. The rooms are large and of good -proportion, and each bed-room has its closet. - -Bungalows, as the one-story houses used in India are called, seem adapted -to some parts of America, particularly as summer cottages. - -Plate XVII and the frontispiece show a house which will commend itself to -those who dislike going up and down stairs. This plan provides a hall, -dining-room and kitchen, each with its fire-place and closet, and three -bed-rooms. The door of the bath-room and that of the bed-room opposite -are misplaced, and should open into the corridor. There is a small -stairway to the attic, where there is space for dormitories, if desired. -The construction of this sort of house is so simple, and the foundation -may be so light, that it will cost but a trifle more than if the rooms -were arranged in the ordinary way. The bungalow here given is very simply -treated, the roof being only broken for the outlook from the attic, and -extending to cover the veranda. - -Plate XVIII shows a house suitable for an ordinary “fifty-foot suburban -lot.” The entrance hall is divided by an arch and book-cases, making -an agreeable sitting-room or library. The second story contains three -bed-rooms and a bath-room. There are accommodations in the attic for -servants. - -Plate XIX is a design for a cottage on a side hill, with the kitchen in -the basement. The projection of the stairs in the main hall gives place -for a seat opposite the fire-place, and may be made a cosy little corner. -The dining-room, hall and sitting-room, open into each other. - -The last four Plates are designs for double or “semi-detached” houses. -If, instead of building single houses, two persons will combine, -adopting some arrangement such as these designs show, they will effect -a considerable saving of expense. The houses, although receiving light -and air only on three sides, are bright and comfortable. Privacy is not -destroyed, as the entrance porches are separated, and windows placed so -as to avoid looking from one house to the other. - -The exterior treatment in Designs XX and XXI seems to indicate more -clearly than the others that they are double houses, while Nos. XXII -and XXIII, though not concealing this fact, have more the air of large -single houses. This is a nice question of “expression” which our readers -may decide for themselves. - -These drawings show different architects’ conceptions of what small and -medium-sized cottages should be. They differ greatly from each other, -both in plan and exterior design, but the general expression seems to -be much the same. They are not pretentious, and no ornament exists for -its own sake. Chimneys and roofs are boldly and frankly treated, and a -certain breadth and hospitality are expressed by nearly all. Only a few -of their special features have been mentioned, a fuller description being -deemed unnecessary. - - -IX. - -It will be noticed in all these designs that whatever grace or charm -they may have is the result of the simplest treatment. A building should -be logically designed, and the exterior be the natural expression of -the plan. This is what is meant by Truth in Architecture. But just how -much need be expressed, is not always clear. A proper regard for our -architectural morals does not require us to exhibit to the passer-by -every detail of construction and arrangement. Only what _is_ shown must -be _true_. A building ought at least to declare its purpose, which should -be recognizable at a glance. But a house may well express more than the -fact that it is a house. It may have a pretentious and showy appearance, -or be modest and unassuming. It may look cheerful and hospitable, or cold -and forbidding. - -Now, for a cottage to be pretentious is in bad taste. It need not be -so humble as to nestle among the violets, but it can assert itself -sufficiently without being decked with tawdry ornaments, or the vanity of -cupola or towers. - -On the other hand, it would be equally false for a large mansion which -should have an air of dignity and magnificence to attempt to assume a -simple, rustic appearance. Indeed, Southey informs us that the devil’s -“favorite sin is the pride that apes humility.” Proportion—that is, the -relation of parts to each other and to the whole, is the most important -element of beauty in architecture. This has been the subject of much -discussion and controversy. The parts of a building having a certain -mathematical relation to each other, numerous attempts have been made -to formulate this and establish reliable rules for the guidance of the -designer. All the theories, however, are conflicting; notwithstanding -that most of them are proved by their authors to apply directly to the -Parthenon, which - - “Earth proudly wears... - As the best gem in her zone.” - -It seems that the sense of proportion, like an eye for color or an ear -for music, is an innate quality possessed by some and lacked by others; -and that it is as impossible to design a building as to make a musical -composition by mathematical rules. - -Beauty alone is not sufficient to constitute architectural excellence. -Architecture is the art of building, and utility is the first -consideration. If the architect be an artist, endowed with an -appreciation of form and color, he will so combine the materials at his -command that he will produce a building at once useful and beautiful. -Exterior ornament should be sparingly used on cottages, and, if at all, -should be so employed as to emphasize the design. But it seems more -sensible in an economical dwelling to keep the exterior quite simple. -While we should not inflict our neighbors with an ugly house, we will not -be open to the charge of selfishness if we choose the extravagance of -a daintily carved oak mantel in our sitting-room to that of ornamented -brackets and posts on the veranda. - - -X. - -In these designs for cottages it will be observed that there has been no -attempt made to adhere to any historical style. And this, we believe, -shows a greater appreciation of the beauties of architectural styles than -if they had been misapplied and tortured into what once was known as -“Rural Gothic” or “Italian.” - -After defining architecture to be “the material expression of the wants, -faculties, and the sentiments of the age in which it is created,” Owen -Jones, in his “Grammar of Ornament,” said that “Style in architecture -is the peculiar form that expression takes under the influence of -climate and the material at hand.” Accepting this definition, we see -the absurdity of copying buildings erected under totally different -conditions from ours. Although an Italian villa is more adaptable to our -wants than a Greek temple (and our country-houses have often copied both -with lamentable results) it does not readily submit to be Americanized. -Italy may give us suggestions, and France, England and Germany offer -us many and valuable ones, but in adapting them to our country houses -we must show discrimination. And our own wants and sentiments, if well -and naturally expressed, take forms that are not displeasing, even if -Corinthian columns and Gothic arches are absent. - -The question of color is an important one, as an unfortunate selection -may spoil the (otherwise) prettiest house. We have discovered that -considerations of cleanliness do not require us to paint our houses -white, which, even with the addition of green shutters, is hardly -satisfactory. The staring, conspicuous effect of these white houses is -what we should avoid, and the tints we choose must be those that will -blend harmoniously with the surrounding landscape. The pearly gray that -shingles become after exposure to the atmosphere has a very good effect -if relieved by contrast with some other color. A good treatment is to -give the house a coat of crude petroleum, and, if desired, a transparent -stain may be mixed with it which will show the grain of the wood. A range -of soft yellows, reds and browns, may be so obtained. Messrs. Rossiter -and Wright have published a book entitled “Modern House Painting,” which -gives excellent directions and examples. - - -XI. - -If we strive to give to the exterior of our houses a pleasing appearance, -how much more reason is there to beautify the interior. - -It has been claimed that pretty and comfortable homes exert a decided -moral influence. Be this as it may, we are all interested in making our -homes attractive. And there is no reason why they should not be so. We -are apt to think that costly things must be beautiful, but this is by -no means true, nor is it true that inexpensive objects must be ugly. -The same materials used in the construction and decoration of an ugly -apartment might, with the exercise of a little taste, be so employed that -a graceful combination result. - -Low ceilings give an air of comfort, while very high ones have a cold and -barren effect, and increase the cost of the house. - -The ventilation of a room should be quite independent of the height -of its ceiling, that is to say, a room with a low ceiling may be -well ventilated, and one with a high ceiling may gain nothing by the -extra height but greater facilities for retaining poisonous gases and -foul air. Gwilt gives as a rule that the height of the ceiling of a -rectangular room should be the same as the width of the room; but since -the apartments on a floor are of unequal size and the ceiling commonly -of the same height throughout, no such proportion can be kept. Nor is it -necessary for a small cottage. From 9 to 10 feet is ample for the first -story rooms. - -The proportion of a room may be modified by the treatment of its walls. -Vertical lines give an appearance of greater height, and horizontal -lines make a room look lower. Accordingly, the division of a wall into -horizontal bands by means of the dado and frieze, now in such favor, has -a tendency to make a room look lower than it really is. This division, -however, is a good one. The dado is simply a substitute of a cheaper -material for a paneled wainscot of wood. The wooden base board and -chair-rail should be retained, as they serve to protect the wall. A broad -frieze is an excellent decorative feature. It should be separated from -the wall surface by a picture-moulding from which the pictures will hang. - -The excavations at Pompeii have shown many beautiful examples of -harmonious wall decoration. The walls are divided by dado and frieze, the -dado being generally darker and the frieze lighter, than the intermediate -surface. We will do well to follow this arrangement even if we do not -adopt the Pompeian colors. - -If the plaster is finished with a rough surface (sand finish) it takes -color well, and makes a satisfactory wall. Within the last few years, -wall-papers have been manufactured which are good in design and low in -cost. Many of them, printed in two tones of the same color, are delicate, -and make good backgrounds for pictures. Being delicate and quiet does not -necessarily mean that the paper must be gray and colorless. It may have -a decided color, and still harmonize well with the pictures and other -objects in the room. - -Dark red matting used for a dado gives a most satisfactory effect. It may -be continuous or divided in panels by narrow strips of wood. - -Cartridge or ingrain-paper is now made in excellent colors, and is a good -substitute for printed wall-papers. To break the flat surface a stencil -pattern may be traced on it, or this may be done directly on the plaster, -which must first be colored. - -A good ceiling is made of simple felting-paper in lieu of plaster; the -paper divided into small panels by narrow beaded strips of wood. - -Lincrusta-Walton is a valuable material for some choice bit of decoration. - -For door and window trims and other interior woodwork, white pine is -recommended, as it is the cheapest, and, if properly finished, looks very -well. - -It may be stained, if too light—the transparent stains merely darken the -wood and do not conceal the natural grain. Under no circumstances try to -imitate oak or walnut by graining. Such shams deceive no one and are in -the worst taste. If we use paint for interior work let us use it frankly, -carefully selecting the color, and avoiding a shiny surface, a flatted or -dull finish being preferable. - -We have a great variety of wood to choose from, if not limited in -expense, but “hard woods,” such as cherry, oak, mahogany, etc., not only -are expensive in themselves, but require more labor. Ash is the cheapest -of them. If some of the patent “fillers” are used, an excellent surface -may be given to the wood, but these require to be finished with shellac, -and carefully rubbed down. For cheap work, two coats of boiled oil may be -used; or, if a polished surface is desired, varnish may be substituted. - -Our fire-places may be of brick laid in red mortar, with wooden shelves, -and perhaps lightly framed with wood. Tiles are appropriate for facings -and hearth, as they are not affected by the heat. Let our windows be -large and extend well up to the ceiling. Have window-seats if we can, and -dispense with interior doors as much as possible. A curtain of some soft -material (it need not be expensive) will look better than a six-panel -door, and it may be pushed to one side, while the door is irrepressible. -Let us make our hall a bright, cheerful apartment, that may aid us to -“welcome the coming, speed the parting, guest.” - - -XII. - -The cost of building depends so largely upon varying circumstances that -it is impossible to give precise estimates without exact information upon -such points as the amount of excavation needed, facilities for obtaining -stone for foundation, etc. Then the prices of labor and materials vary -greatly in different localities, so the figures here given can only be -approximately correct. Cottage No. I could be built as shown on plan, -for $500. A cellar under it would make it cost about $100 more. Cottages -Nos. II, III and IV would cost from $600 to $1000. Those shown in plates -VI, VII, IX, X, and others of similar character and size may be estimated -to cost from $2.50 to $3.00 per square ft. That is to say, if, as in -Fig. IX, the extreme exterior dimensions are 21 ft. by 29 ft., the house -covers 609 square ft., and would cost from $1522 to $1827. Cottage No. -XIV could be built for from $3000 to $3500. - -These prices are given as guides, and may serve the reader as a standard -to follow. If plain interior finish is adopted, these figures may be -relied upon for ordinary cases. Some sites, however, present unexpected -difficulties, and some localities are peculiarly favored. Then the style -of interior finish adopted affects the cost greatly, and the expense may -be easily doubled by the use of elaborate cabinet work. - -A brick house of the same capacity as a wooden one, will cost nearly 20 -per cent. more. Rubble stone, if easily obtained, costs about as much as -brick. - -In building double houses, we may save from 10 to 15 per cent. on the -cost of the houses singly. - -Good materials and workmanship are always the cheapest in the end, and it -is by no means advisable to economize too closely on that score. There -can be no comfort in a house that constantly needs repairs; and the money -spent in building a home, carefully and substantially constructed, will -never be regretted. - - - - -[Illustration: SANITARY QUESTIONS] - -_By WM. PAUL GERHARD, C. E._ - - -In selecting a site, a loose, porous =soil= is, for obvious reasons, -preferable to ground liable to be damp or wet. Pure, dry sand, and -gravel, make excellent sites for building purposes. Next to these, rocky -soils may be chosen, and are usually quite healthy. Clay soils, which are -more or less impervious to water, and therefore always damp and chilly, -and alluvial lands, must not be chosen as a site for dwellings. But, -above all, avoid _made_ land. Although this refers more particularly to -city lots, it is not uncommon, even in the suburbs of large cities, to -find low ground filled with garbage, rubbish, and decaying vegetable and -animal debris, which are prime causes of impure air in dwellings. Ground -which has not before been built upon is, undoubtedly, preferable to sites -of old, torn-down buildings. If the latter must be taken, a detailed and -thorough examination should be made with respect to the purity of the -soil. Some lots are literally honey-combed with cesspools, privy-holes, -or have a net-work of broken drains full of accumulated filth, and the -soil is at times found to be contaminated from liquid house refuse, or -by soakage from barn-yards, stables, etc. A well should never be sunk -through such formerly occupied ground. It is quite important to ascertain -by preliminary borings, the level of the ground water, for a high -water level means continuous dampness, and must be abated by thorough -under-drainage. - -By =underdrainage= of a site, we effect a permanent lowering of the -ground water, and thus secure to the proposed dwelling, dry foundation -walls, and absence of dampness from the house interior. To remove such -subsoil water, small porous, round tile-drains, 1¼ inches in diameter, -should be laid with open joints at least two feet below the level of the -cellar floor. The general arrangement of the lines may vary somewhat -in each case, but ordinarily the branch drains can be laid in parallel -lines, their distance varying from ten to twenty-five feet, according to -the amount of water to be removed. Wherever springs are found, special -lines may be required. The trenches should be refilled with broken stones -or coarse gravel. All branch pipes should be collected in one main pipe, -for which a 2 inch tile pipe will answer in most cases. This main drain -should be continued with proper fall to a ditch, ravine or water course. -There must never be any connection between such subsoil drains and any -foul-water drain, sewer, or with a cesspool or sewage tank. - -If the dwelling stands on a hill-side, exposed to subsoil water flowing -over an impervious stratum, the foundation walls of the house nearest -to the hill are very apt to be wet, often even so much as to have the -subsoil water percolate through the cellar walls. In this case, the -subterranean water vein should be cut off by a blind drain, _i.e._ a -trench dug above the house sufficiently deep and carried with proper fall -diagonally across the lot. The trench to be filled with broken stones and -to be carried down the hill to some outlet, either an open ditch or a -brook. - -Some attention should be paid to the proper _removal of surface water_. -In the case of suburban cottages the rain falling upon the roof is almost -always collected and stored for use in underground cisterns. Occasionally -a public water supply is available, the cistern is omitted, and the roof -water is allowed to run away on the surface, and partly soak into the -ground, thereby tending to keep the foundation walls damp and unhealthy. -To avoid this evil, the grounds surrounding the house must be properly -graded, in order to shed the water off from the walls. At a good distance -from the house the surface water may sometimes be permitted to soak away -into the ground, the vegetation helping to absorb a part of it. In other -cases, however, surface channels or gutters must be arranged, especially -with clay soils. - -Besides water, the upper layers of the soil always contain =ground air=, -which has a tendency to rise into the dwelling, especially in winter when -our heated dwellings act as huge chimneys, drawing up large quantities -of air from the ground beneath them. Such exhalations, which consist in -the case of a pure soil of carbonic acid and watery vapor, and which -in the case of a contaminated soil are largely mixed with gases of -decomposing organic matter, should be rigidly excluded from the interior -of houses. For this reason, dwellings without a cellar should never be -placed immediately on the ground, but must be raised on piers, arches or -posts sufficiently to allow of a large air space and perfect circulation -between the surface and the floor beams. This will, at the same time, -prevent the quick rotting of the joists and floor-boards. To prevent -the rapid cooling of the basement floor this should be laid double with -an intermediate space, filled with a non-conducting material, such as -mineral wool. - -It is more expensive, but always preferable, to excavate for a =cellar= -and to build the house on strong, well made foundation walls. The floor -of the cellar must be made perfectly tight against ground water and -ground air. There are different ways of doing this. One of the best -methods is the following: cover the surface of the cellar, which has -previously been levelled, with a layer of concrete, at least four inches, -better six inches deep. Next put on a thin layer (about ¼ inch) of hot, -pure asphaltum, and on top of this a finish of Portland cement. - -The cellar walls must always be made impervious to dampness. As usually -built, they are extremely porous, and moisture rises in them by contact -with the adjoining ground and by capillary attraction. The best plan to -prevent =dampness of walls= is to have a complete cut-off between the -foundation walls and the ground, by an open area, carried completely -round the building, and well drained and ventilated. This, however, is -expensive, and a similar isolation may be accomplished by building double -or hollow walls, the space between inner and outer walls being well -aired. The foundation walls should be placed upon a bed of concrete, and -must be covered on their outside with a layer of asphaltum to a point -somewhat above the level of the ground. It is very important to provide, -at this height in the wall, a horizontal isolating or damp proof course, -which may consist of a thick layer of asphaltum, or of slate, bedded in -cement, or of layers of tarred roofing paper, or else of hollow tiles. -The sill and the floor joists must, of course, be kept above the damp -proof course. The surface water may be kept away from the outer walls by -filling the space next to the wall, to a depth well below the foundation -walls, with broken stones or gravel. Sometimes a tile drain is placed -below the foot course to carry off any accumulation of percolating storm -water. This trench may be covered at the top with a stone slab to shed -off surface water. - -Most so-called “practical” builders will probably sneer at these -suggestions. I can assure those of my readers who care to build a -_healthy_ home, that the money paid for such preventive measures will -be spent for an excellent purpose. The proper construction of healthy -foundation walls, and of a cellar, dry and cheerful at all times, is the -basis of sanitation in cottage-building. This much accomplished, all -remaining requirements are not so difficult to fulfill. - -Next to dryness, the most desirable features of a good cellar are, that -it is well lighted and perfectly ventilated. Good light in a cellar -helps much toward its being kept in a proper condition. As regards -the necessity of cellar ventilation, remember that your floors will -necessarily have some crevices or shrinkage holes, and through these -the cellar air will rise and mingle with the atmosphere of your living -and sleeping rooms. Above all other things, do not allow your cellar to -be made a sort of gigantic poke-hole for rags, cast-off clothing, old -shoes, tin-cans, rotten vegetables, garbage, swill or other offensive -matters. See that it is kept at all times free from rats and vermin. Do -not tolerate any opening in the cellar floor for the removal of surplus -water into foul water drains. Such opening, even if trapped, will be sure -to act at times as an inlet for unwelcome sewer air. - - * * * * * - -The =water supply= of cottages is derived either from wells, cisterns -or springs. Rarely do we find in the case of scattered houses a public -supply, delivering water under pressure. - -A common sight in the country is a =well= located close to or adjoining -a leaching cesspool or a privy. Such wells are usually sunk to but a -limited depth, and the liquid sewage from cesspools soaks through the -porous subsoil down to the subterranean water stratum. The danger to -health from drinking impure water is now universally acknowledged. -Polluted well water is rendered more dangerous by the fact that it often -has a bright, sparkling and clear appearance and has, in summer time, a -low temperature, making it particularly agreeable to drink. Nothing but a -chemical analysis or the microscope reveals its unwholesome condition. It -is extremely difficult to fix a limit of minimum distance between a well -and a cesspool, or privy, as so many different factors have to be taken -into consideration. In rocky ground, especially, there may exist hidden -fissures carrying the contents of cesspools a much greater distance than -is generally expected. - -If there is no leaching cesspool, no privy, nor other cause of soil -contamination, in the neighborhood, a well may safely be used. If -cesspools must be kept on or near your, or the neighbor’s, lot, or if the -ground has previously been saturated with filth, do not sink a well. - -A properly built well should have walls made tight and impervious from -the level of the ground-water up to the surface, in order to prevent -any filtration from the soil surrounding the well. The surface of the -ground should be raised somewhat at the well, and graded so as to pitch -in all directions away from the well. This will prevent the entrance -of surface-washings. The opening of the well must be _thoroughly well -covered_, in order to prevent the falling into the well of vermin and -smaller animals, or the washing in of decaying vegetable or organic -matter. The following mode of building a well has many advantages over -the ordinary way: Excavate down to the water-level, then arch the well -over with stones, and place the suction-pipe into the well. Next refill -with loose stones, on top of these place coarse gravel, sand, and finally -clean earth. Carry the pipe above ground to the suction-pump. A thus -built well is very safe against introduction of foreign matter. - -The best wells are probably what are called “driven wells” or -“Abyssinian” wells. They are constructed as follows: A wrought-iron tube, -1½ to 2 inches diameter, having at its end a steel point perforated with -numerous holes, is driven into the ground, which must, of course, be free -from stones or boulders, until the ground water is reached. If necessary, -several lengths of tubing are screwed together by means of couplings. -The upper end of the tube is attached to the pump, and continued suction -will soon wash away the sand at the lower end of the pipe, and furnish a -stream of clear water. - -Wherever a well cannot be sunk, cottages should be supplied with rain -water collected from the roof and stored either in tanks placed in -the garret, or else in underground =cisterns=. The latter keep the -temperature of the water moderately low throughout the year. Most people, -unaccustomed to drink rain water, object to it on account of its flat -taste, but if it is carefully collected, properly stored, boiled before -use, filtered, cooled with ice and well aerated, it makes an exceedingly -wholesome and agreeable drink. - -To determine the amount of rain water available from a certain roof, -ascertain the amount of surface of its horizontal projection, and -multiply this by the annual rainfall in feet and decimals of a foot. -The total amount in cubic feet must be divided by two, to allow for -unavoidable loss through evaporation and for wasted, impure roof -washings. It is easy to arrive at a proper size for the cistern, if the -available amount of water is known. - -In collecting roof water, it is important to allow the first washings -from the roof, which always contain more or less filth in the shape of -dust, horse dung from the street, excrements of birds, leaves from trees, -etc., to run off on the surface. This may readily be accomplished by -cut-offs on the rain water pipes, to be worked by hand or arranged to -act automatically. The best roofing surface for collecting rain water -is slate, and next to this shingles. Underground cisterns are usually -built circular in shape, of hard-burnt brick, laid in hydraulic cement. -The walls of the cistern must be made perfectly watertight, not only to -prevent leakage from it to the outside, but also to prevent the entrance -into it of ground water. If an overflow pipe is provided, it should -under no circumstances whatever communicate with any drain or sewer, -or discharge into a cesspool. As soon as delivered into the cistern, -the water must be kept scrupulously clean, and any possible source of -pollution should be removed. It is a good plan to build into the cistern -a filtering chamber to remove the coarser impurities in the water. -Cisterns should be frequently inspected, emptied and cleaned; the opening -at the top must be closed by a solid cover, to prevent the falling in -of vermin, mice, rats, etc., and to guard against contamination by -surface-washings. - -Occasionally a dwelling-house is supplied from a distant =spring=, by a -gravitation supply in case the spring is near a hill-top, or by means of -a hydraulic ram if the spring is situated at a lower level than the house. - -If the dwelling draws its supply from a well or a cistern, the water -is usually lifted by means of suction-pumps, generally located, for -convenience’s sake, inside the house, at the kitchen sink. If the cottage -has any plumbing fixtures on the upper floor, it becomes necessary to -force water by a lift and force-pump to a small reservoir or tank under -the roof, from which it is distributed to the fixtures under a constant -head of pressure. Such =water tanks= should be made of cast iron well -painted, or of wrought iron well protected against rust. Slate tanks are -also very good. Cheaper than either of these are wooden tanks. Wooden -tanks are often lined with tinned copper; lead, zinc or galvanized iron -linings are undesirable. Care must be taken not to run the overflow of -a tank into any soil or drain pipe. The simplest way of disposing of it -is to run it into the gutter of the roof. If this is not feasible run it -down to the kitchen sink, and make it serve as a tell-tale for use with -the force-pump at the kitchen sink. - -=Pipes for conveying water= to the plumbing fixtures may be of drawn -lead, or tin-lined lead, or of block tin. Wrought iron is used -extensively, either plain or galvanized or enamelled; rubber-coated, -glass-lined and tin-lined wrought-iron pipes are also made, but are too -expensive for ordinary use. - -Drawn lead pipe is a material possessing many merits, and hence it is -used extensively. It should be remembered, however, that soft water -attacks lead, and a sufficient amount of lead is occasionally dissolved -to cause dangerous poisoning of persons drinking water from such pipes. -It is a good precaution in the case of new pipes to allow the water to -run for a while, especially if it has been standing in the pipes over -night. Tin-lined pipes, although more expensive, are much safer for use, -but great care must be taken in making joints in such pipe, lest the tin -be removed at the joints. Tin-lined as well as block tin pipes should -always be used as suction-pipes in wells and cisterns in preference to -ordinary lead pipes. - -Plain wrought-iron pipes rust quickly, especially if not constantly kept -full of water; water conveyed through them is apt to make iron stains in -the washing. A further disadvantage is the frequent choking up of the -smaller sizes through rust. Pipes coated with some kind of enamel are -better and safer, provided care is taken in making the joints properly. -Plain wrought-iron pipes, made rustless by the Bower-Barff process, have -lately been used and promise to show good results. Wrought-iron pipes are -largely used, protected with a coating of zinc, and such “galvanized” -pipes may be safely used, for, although water dissolves and is often -found to contain salts of zinc, which are poisonous in large amounts, -dilution makes them practically harmless. A more serious objection to -galvanized pipes may be the fact that the zinc coating, unless applied -with great care, soon wears off and ceases to protect the pipe against -rust. Copper tubes, lined with tin, are occasionally used, but are -expensive and troublesome to put up. In some of the Eastern States -drawn seamless brass tubes are used for hot-water pipes. Their only -advantage over lead would seem to be their neater appearance and less -liability to sag, although changes of temperature affect brass pipes by -expansion and contraction, causing leaky joints. Brass pipes, if used for -drinking-water, should be tinned on the inside. - -It is important to arrange all water-pipes so that they can be -completely drained or emptied, when the supply is shut off. Pipes -running on outside walls should be suitably protected against frost. It -is recommended, even in the case of the smallest buildings, to have a -plan, showing the exact size, material and location of all water pipes, -stop-cocks, faucets, cisterns, etc. All pipes should be kept accessible, -and, wherever possible, in sight. - -The supply for drinking purposes is often purified by means of -=domestic filtration=. This is especially desirable with cistern water. -Domestic filters should act not only as strainers by removing suspended -impurities, but they ought also to act chemically by oxidizing a part -or all of the dissolved organic matter. Various materials are used for -domestic filters, amongst them being sand, sponge, flannel, cotton, -animal charcoal and spongy iron. Nothing is more erroneous than the -supposition that a filter, once started, will continue to act, without -further attention, forever. Whatever the filtering material may be, it -should be frequently cleaned and aerated, and renewed from time to time. -It must, therefore, always be easily accessible. Most small filters, to -be screwed to faucets on the supply pipe, are made reversible, and if -this operation is regularly performed, they work quite well, although -their action is of necessity largely mechanical. Larger filters are -connected by means of a hose or a pipe with the pressure supply, and -these, too, answer well, provided they have an arrangement for periodical -reversing of the direction of the filtering current. Other filters -are portable vessels to be filled by hand. Filters are also placed in -cisterns, or at the end of the suction pipe in wells or cisterns. A good -plan is to build into the cistern a partition wall, establishing a small -chamber, in which the suction pipe is placed. The dividing wall is built -with courses of brick, some of which, being laid dry, act as strainers. -This arrangement, it need hardly be said, wants periodical cleaning as -much as any of the household filters. - - * * * * * - -A serious and all-important matter is the question of =removal and -disposal of the household wastes=. We will assume, as is the case in -ninety-nine out of every hundred isolated country dwellings, that there -are no sewers in the streets, and that a discharge into a large creek or -stream, or into the sea, is not feasible. - -The common practice is to build a _leaching_ =cesspool=, if the soil is -at all porous. All the liquid wastes from the household are carried by -a drain to this cesspool, and allowed to soak away into the soil, while -the cesspool, and the spaces between its wall-stones, are gradually -filling up with the more solid matter, the grease, etc., which undergo -a slow process of decomposition, creating a noxious and disagreeable -accumulation of gases. The cesspool is usually unventilated, and the only -exit for gases is through the drain pipe, up the house pipes, and through -defective joints and equally defective traps into the house. - -Occasionally two cesspools are used, one for the kitchen sink waste, -the other for soil and bath-room waste water. The conditions of these -cesspools after some use will not differ materially from each other, and -such an arrangement is, if anything, more of a nuisance than the one -first-mentioned. - -The smaller the house lot, the greater is the danger from a cesspool. No -leaching cesspool should ever be placed nearer to a dwelling than one -hundred feet. To locate such a cesspool close to the well, or even a -cistern, is a practice which should be forbidden by law. - -A cesspool or sewage tank, if required, should be built _thoroughly -tight_, tighter even, if this were possible, than a cistern. It should -be of moderate dimensions, preferably circular in shape, built with -hard-burnt brick, laid in hydraulic cement, and the tank must be well -rendered inside and outside with pure Portland cement. The tank should be -arched over and covered with an iron cover. It must be emptied, cleaned -and disinfected at frequent intervals, and it should be at all times -well ventilated, by a pipe, carried up to a good height above ground. -If possible, the cesspool should not be located in a direction from the -house of the prevailing winds. - -The liquid contents of a sewage-tank may with advantage be used to -sprinkle and irrigate a lawn, or a kitchen garden, or shrubbery, or a -vine trellis, while the solids, removed at _frequent_ intervals, may be -dug as fertilizers into the ground. If this arrangement is adopted I -usually advise having two chambers in the cesspool; the smaller one for -retaining the solids, the larger one to receive the liquid wastes. The -overflow delivering the latter from the retaining or settling chamber for -solids, into the liquid-tank, must dip well below the water-line, so as -to avoid carrying scum with the water. The liquid manure may be pumped by -a small pump, set over the top of the liquid cesspool chamber. - -The question is to some extent simplified if the cottage contains no -water-closets. The liquid manure will be easier removed and taken care -of. The usual and much to be condemned substitute for a water-closet is -a =privy=, located close to or at a distance from the house. It rivals -with the leaching cesspool in nastiness and danger to health. It pollutes -the soil, taints the water in the well and contaminates the air of the -neighborhood. A privy must always receive unqualified condemnation. There -are cheap and cleanly substitutes for it, such as the various apparatus -known as =earth or ash closets=. While I should hesitate to recommend -placing an earth-closet inside a cottage, except for the use of invalids, -it is very easy to arrange it so as to be quite near the rear part of the -house, accessible from it by a not too conspicuous, well covered, shady, -dry and sheltered walk. - -The shed, in which the earth-closet is placed, should be well-built, -strong and tight, and preferably plastered, so as not to be too cold in -winter storms, but also sufficiently ventilated. A simple earth-closet is -illustrated in the writer’s book, “Hints on the Drainage and Sewerage -of Dwellings.” More expensive closets, with mechanical apparatus for -throwing a fixed quantity of earth after use, are sold and generally give -satisfaction if used intelligently, although plain earth-closets answer -well in the case of inexpensive cottages. - -With cottages, provided with earth-closets, the earth-manure can be -advantageously used in the kitchen garden, or else it may be disposed of -to neighboring farmers. The disposal of slop water (kitchen and chamber -slops) may be effected where there are grounds about the house, sloping -somewhat away from it, by =sub-surface irrigation=, consisting in placing -a series of common 2-inch drain tiles in parallel lines, about 10 inches -below the surface of the ground, and distributing the sewage water -intermittently through such a network of pipes into the ground, where it -is acted upon by the vegetation and purified by the earth, acting as a -filter. The details of this system, which answers better than any other -known method of disposal for isolated country dwellings, are given in -the author’s book, quoted before. This system is also practical when -water-closets are used inside the house, but in this case, the solids -should be intercepted in a small receiving reservoir, which must be -frequently cleaned, otherwise the distributing tiles will speedily choke, -and create a nuisance by ceasing to work. - -Cottages or suburban dwellings of moderate cost should have as few -=plumbing fixtures= as possible, especially if water is scarce, and must -be pumped to a distributing tank by hand labor. Where there is a system -of service pipes, tanks and fixtures, there will be more or less outlay -for annual repairs, besides the frequent annoyance of apparatus getting -out of order, or refusing to work, or freezing up and bursting. It is -certainly much cheaper to have a properly managed earth-closet and to -confine the plumbing in the house to a kitchen sink, a force-pump, a -tank and a kitchen boiler. Certain advantages, however, of an indoor -water-closet, as regards comfort, convenience and health, must be -conceded. A bath-room with a plain bath-tub is also a great convenience -and an important aid to bodily cleanliness. It pays well to arrange -for it, even where one must forego the luxury of a good water-closet. -If means are not available for a system of hot and cold water pipes, -the bath tub may be filled by pails. A small slop sink or slop hopper -for removing chamber slops is also useful and facilitates the work of -servants. Both sink and tub may be arranged in one room, which should -have plenty of ventilation and direct light by large windows to the -outer air. Even the smallest cottage must have a plain kitchen sink. -Where the kitchen is large, a set of laundry tubs may be arranged close -by the sink; in larger dwellings a special room is generally set aside -for laundry purposes, next to the kitchen, or below the kitchen, in the -basement, and hot water from the kitchen boiler is generally available. -If a =bath-room= is wanted, with a water-closet and a bath-tub, and all -necessary amount of hot and cold water pipes, waste and vent pipes, let -the arrangement be as plain and as open—which does not necessarily mean -unsightly—as possible. Keep all pipes outside of walls or partitions, -have them where you can constantly see them and lay your hands on any -stopcock or other plumbing detail, if necessary. Dispense with woodwork -as much as possible. Arrange every fixture, especially the sink and the -water-closet, open to inspection and accessible to the dust-brush and -wiping cloth of the servants. It is important—for the sake of economy -as well as on account of plain and straight arrangement of pipes—that -the bath-room should be as nearly as possible directly over the kitchen, -so that one waste pipe and one line of vent pipe may answer for both. -A little skill and foresight in planning will usually accomplish this -desirable feature. - -Let the kitchen sink be of plain cast-iron, the laundry tubs of wood, -or better, of slate; the bath-tub of wood, lined with 14 oz. copper, -and select a good earthen-ware flushing rim hopper with supply-cistern. -Of course, there is more expensive, more durable and handsomer plumbing -apparatus sold, but the above fixtures, if well set, answer all practical -requirements of a small home. The water-closet should be arranged with -so little woodwork as only a seat resting on cleats; the closet itself -standing on all sides free on the floor. This may be finished in hard -wood or covered with oil-cloth, or with slate slabs. A closet thus -arranged answers well for pouring out chamber slops and for use as a -urinal. For further details on plumbing fixtures see the author’s books -on the subject. - -Here are a few approved rules on =house sewerage=, so far as they relate -to plain cottages. - -The main house sewer outside the building to be of strong well-burnt, -and glazed vitrified pipe, circular in section, four inches in diameter, -laid in straight lines, or with curves of large radius at changes of -direction. Joints to be made with pure Portland cement. It is important -that no cement remains on the inside of the joint. The bottom part of -each pipe should be tightened with particular care. The drain to be -firmly laid at the bottom of the trench, if necessary, on a bed of -concrete. Grooves should be cut for the pipe-sockets. The depth of the -drain should be about 3 feet. Junctions to be made with Y branches. -Inclination to be, if possible, ½ inch to the foot. Wherever grades are -very flat provide some simple and inexpensive flushing apparatus at the -head of the house sewer. - -All the pipes inside the house to be thoroughly gas and water-tight, and -well flushed and ventilated. The house sewer inside the dwelling, to a -point five feet outside of the house walls, to be of heavy iron pipe; -of cast iron, if kept below the floor; of wrought iron or cast iron, if -run along the cellar wall or ceiling. Provide a sufficient number of -access-holes for inspection and for removing stoppages. - -The soil pipe or waste pipe to be of heavy tarred cast iron with well -caulked lead joints, or of asphalted wrought iron with steam-tight -screw-joints. Pipes to run as straight as possible from the cellar to the -roof, and to be continued full-size at least two feet above the roof. -Mouth to be left wide open. Size of soil pipe 4 inches; of waste pipe 2 -inches. - -Provide a running trap on line of main house sewer, inside or outside of -the house. Arrange a 4-inch fresh air pipe, at the house side of such -trap, run preferably some distance away from the house and hidden from -sight by shrubbery. - -Branch waste pipes from fixtures to be of heavy lead pipe, 1½ inches -diameter. Joints between lead and iron pipe to be made with brass -ferrules or brass screw nipples. - -Each fixture to be separately trapped near its outlet by a self-cleansing -and secure trap. Overflow pipes to be dispensed with as much as possible; -if used to join the waste pipe between the fixture and the trap. Traps to -be either the siphon (S or running traps), in which case siphonage should -be prevented by an air pipe, or else to be anti-siphoning or mechanical -or mercury-seal traps. - - * * * * * - -The question of how to =warm= our cottage will depend, in the first -place, upon the climate and locality of the proposed dwelling, and -furthermore upon its exposure. Three methods of warming the air of halls -and rooms must be considered, namely, warming by open fire-places, by -stoves and by hot-air furnaces. Direct and indirect heating by steam -and by hot-water apparatus are excluded on account of their cost for -buildings, such as here shown. - -Ordinary =fire-places= warm principally by radiation, the heat from -the fire being imparted to surrounding objects or persons without much -warming the surrounding air. The degree of heat varies with the square of -the distance from the grate, and it thus happens that with a fire-place -as the only means of heating a room of an exposed dwelling, a person -near the fire may be nearly roasted, while at the opposite extreme end -of the room the temperature may be almost down to the freezing point. A -further disadvantage is the fact that it heats only the part of the body -facing the fire. The greatest objection to the ordinary open grate fire -lies in the fact that 85 per cent. and more of the fuel is wasted, the -heat from it going straight up the chimney flue. A fire-place generally -causes extremely cold drafts from window cracks, or from door spaces, -especially in very cold weather. On the other hand, if such cracks are -all carefully closed and stopped up, the chimney is apt to smoke. While, -therefore, an open fire-place may be adequate in warm climates, it is -entirely inadequate to warm, _per se_, cottages in our eastern, northern, -and northwestern States. - -To say that a very large waste of fuel is incident to warming by -fire-places, is not strictly correct, for the heat is not actually -_wasted_. It forms a good aid to the ventilation of rooms, and we -will see later that, as an accessory of other heating methods, the -fire-place is eminently serviceable, and much to be recommended. -Better, however, than ordinary fire-places, are the improved, so-called -=ventilating fire-places=, which are provided with a large air chamber, -and a sufficient air supply from outdoors. There are several excellent -devices of this kind in the market, and these are, of course, much more -economical as far as burning fuel is concerned, about 35 per cent. of the -heat being utilized. They make splendid ventilators, and are generally -superior and free from defects. - -In this country =stoves= of cast iron and of wrought iron are the -usual and most economical means of heating small cottages and suburban -dwellings. It is also, unfortunately, true that, as ordinarily -arranged, they make the worst possible devices for warming the air -of our rooms. Heating should always be combined with ventilation, -that is, there should be a continuous removal of the fouled air and -introduction of plenty of pure air instead, but arranged so as not to -cause inconvenient or unhealthy drafts. A room warmed by an air-tight -stove must soon contain air entirely unfit to breathe, for a close stove -removes practically none of the vitiated air, and there is usually an -entire absence of any provision for introducing fresh air. Less fuel -is consumed, and stove-heating is consequently economical, at least -apparently so, while in reality it causes loss of strength, vigor and -appetite, and general debility and extreme sensitiveness. - -If a dwelling is to be heated by stoves, the following precautions must -be observed. Select a good-sized, well-built stove, with tight joints, -and lined on the inside with fire-brick to prevent the iron from getting -red hot and to retain, as much as possible, the heat. A supply of -fresh pure air from the outside must be arranged, carried to a jacket -surrounding the stove, where the air is warmed by contact with the stove, -and circulated in the room. The smoke pipe of the stove should be large, -and must never have a damper to shut off the draft. A valve may be placed -on the fresh-air inlet pipe to regulate the amount of ventilation at -will. For the removal of foul air outlets must be arranged, near the -ceiling of the room, and into the chimney, care being taken to prevent -down-drafts or entrance of smoke, by arranging a self-closing flap valve -at the outlet. It is much preferable, however, to have an extracting -or ventilating flue, arranged in the chimney adjoining the smoke flue -and warmed by the latter, with outlets from the room into such flue. -The stove should have ample capacity to heat the room even in very cold -weather without driving the fire to a red heat. It is a good plan to -supply a moderate amount of moisture to the air by placing a water kettle -or evaporating pan on the stove. - -Heating suburban dwellings by =hot-air furnaces= has many advantages -over stove heating. Furnace heating is, strictly speaking, stove -heating, but with this difference, that there is only one large stove, -centrally located in the basement or cellar, from which air pipes of -sufficient size carry the warmed air into the rooms as desired. There is, -consequently, less labor in carrying coal and making fires, less trouble -in keeping up the fire, and less dirt and dust from removing ashes. - -Furnace heating is disliked and has often been condemned by many as -detrimental to health, and while such is true of improperly arranged -furnace apparatus, it is, nevertheless, a mode of heating which can be -made perfectly healthy and agreeable. It is impossible to heat a room -well by furnace heat, unless arrangements are made, by an open fire-place -or other outlet into a chimney flue, for withdrawal of the air once -breathed and fouled by respiration. You cannot introduce pure, warmed -air, unless you remove a like amount of fouled air. Another mistake, -frequently made, is to take the air supply to the furnace air-chamber -directly from the cellar. Thus, cellar air, ground air, or air from -sewer pipes, is often sent up in a heated condition into the living and -sleeping rooms. - -If warming by a hot-air furnace is decided upon, care should be taken -to select from the innumerable patterns in the market a good furnace. -The furnace should be of the best quality of material of its kind—either -cast iron, wrought iron or soap-stone,—and of a good size, for if the -furnace is small, it will be overheated in extremely cold weather, which -is very objectionable, as it renders the air less fit for breathing, and -is liable to cause cracks in cast-iron, and loose joints in wrought-iron -furnaces. The furnace must be well constructed, the pot must be lined -with fire-brick to prevent the rapid burning out of the iron, the joints -must be few in number and perfectly tight, and this must be made the -subject of a special examination. The furnace should have one or two -large cold air-ducts, leading to the outside of the house, located on -opposite sides of the house if there are two. These air-ducts should -take their supply preferably five or more feet above the surface of the -ground. A slide-valve must be arranged in the cold-air box, to regulate -the amount of incoming air, and where there is danger from impurities -in the air, the air supply should be filtered through a loose cotton -filter. At the mouth of the air box place a wire-netting to prevent -rats or other animals from entering. The box should be constructed of -well-dried, wooden plank, with closely fitted joints. Better, although -more expensive, is a galvanized sheet iron air-duct. It is advisable to -carry the cold-air box along the ceiling of the cellar, where it is in -sight, and not below the ground, where it may and often is filled with -ground water or pools of sewage from broken cellar drains. The size of -the fresh-air inlet should be equal in area to the aggregate sum of all -hot-air flues, leading from the air chamber into rooms. The fresh air -should be kept tolerably moist by arranging an evaporating pan kept -constantly full of water in the air chamber of the furnace. - -The furnace must be arranged as centrally as possible, so as to make the -horizontal hot-air flues short, for in these the velocity of the air -current is reduced by friction, especially if the flues are small. The -hot-air flues should, preferably, be kept on inside walls, and must be as -direct as possible, and of ample capacity. The inlets or registers, for -admitting warm air into the room, should not be in the floor, for it is -unhealthy to stand over them, moreover they form receptacles of dirt and -dust, and are unsightly in the floor. The inlets should be placed in a -side wall. To avoid danger from charring woodwork no hot-air flues should -come in direct contact with floor-joists, boards or partitions; all -woodwork should be securely protected by some non-conducting material. -The smoke-pipe must be large and run to a good-sized smooth flue, so as -to insure a good steady draft, which will remove all gases of combustion. -There should be no damper on the smoke pipe, and the fire should be -regulated only by more or less admission of air under the fire grate. -Overheating of the furnace must be avoided, for it unduly dries the air, -and scorches the organic matter in the air coming in contact with the -fire, thus causing a peculiar, disagreeable smell. - -An open fire-place in the hall and all principal rooms makes, in -connection with hot-air heating, the most comfortable and pleasant -arrangement for withdrawing fouled air from the room. With the air of -the room introduced at a warm temperature, the radiant heat from the -fire-place is particularly invigorating and comforting. We all love to -gather around a cheerful, glowing fire on the hearth of a cosy home, and -exchange pleasant thoughts or dream away twilight hours in looking at the -flickering light. - -If fire-places are not available for ventilation, outlets must be -provided into warm, ventilating flues, arranged parallel to smoke-flues -in chimneys. Chimney flues should preferably not be built against outside -walls, for they are not apt to draw well in such position, unless a -special air space is arranged in the rear of the flue to prevent its too -rapid cooling. Ventilating flues must be without sharp angles, smooth on -the inside and preferably round in section. If they remove the air from a -number of rooms, their cross-section must be proportionately increased. -Bedrooms should never be heated by base burner stoves, but should have -a fire-place acting at all times as an efficient foul-air flue. Halls -must be moderately heated to avoid cold drafts through door-cracks, and -to insure a more uniform heat throughout the dwelling. Bathrooms and -kitchens must be ventilated with special care. - -=Ventilation= or change of air in dwellings must go on at all seasons -of the year. It aims at removing the vitiated air in a dwelling and -introducing a sufficient amount of pure air, moderately heated in winter -time, supplied with a proper amount of moisture, and thoroughly and -uniformly diffusing it in the house interior in gentle currents, without -causing undue drafts. Drafts are dangerous to health, because they -rob the human body too suddenly of a part of its heat. In summer-time -ventilation is happily and easily accomplished by opening doors or -windows, and by occasional “air-flushing” by creating cross-currents -through rooms. Fire-places should not be covered up in summer by -fire-boards. In winter-time ventilation should always be combined with -heating. - -In the spring or fall of the year we often content ourselves with a small -wood or coal fire on the hearth, and in such a case the easiest way to -provide for incoming fresh air is by admitting air through the windows, -directing the cold current to rise up to the ceiling. This may be done by -lowering the upper sash and raising the lower one slightly, not enough to -leave openings at top and bottom. A better way is, of course, to have a -ventilating open fire-place, such as the “fire-on-the-hearth” stove, or -other apparatus. - -The so-called spontaneous or accidental ventilation by air penetrating -walls cannot, practically, establish a sufficient change of air. Its -effect is very much reduced by papering, painting, plastering on the -inside, and by treating the outside walls by some water-proof process, as -is frequently done, as a protection against driving rains. - -For details on ventilation, amount of cubic space in rooms, amount of -air-supply required, proper position of inlets and outlets, and other -questions, we refer to larger hand-books on ventilation. - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration: PLATES.] - - -[Illustration: PLATE I - -Perspective Sketch. - -Rossiter and Wright Architects.] - -[Illustration: PLATE II - -Sketch for Cottage. - -Wm. A. Bates. Architect. 149 Broadway, New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE III - -Perspective Sketch. - -Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE IV - -Sketch for Cottage. - -Wm. A. Bates. Architect. 149 Broadway, New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE V - -Perspective. - -Thos. Tryon. Architect. New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE VI - -Perspective Sketch. - -Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE VII - -Suburban Cottage. - -Frank F. Ward. Architect. 59 Astor House, N.Y.] - -[Illustration: PLATE VIII - -Sketch. Design for Cottage-Rooms in connection with a Summer Hotel. - -Fredk. B. White. Architect. 294 Broadway, New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE IX - -Sketch for Cottage. - -Wm. A. Bates. Architect. 149 Broadway, New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE X - -Perspective. - -Chas. I. Berg. Architect. N.Y.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XI - -Perspective Sketch. - -Fredk. B. White. Architect. 294 Broadway, New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XII - -A Stone & Timber Cottage. - -Wm. B. Tuthill. Architect. 52 Broadway, N.Y.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XIII - -Perspective Sketch. - -Thos. Tryon. Architect. New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XIV - -Perspective Sketch. - -Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XV - -A Low priced Sea-side Cottage. Perspective Sketch. - -Rossiter and Wright Architects.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XVI - -Sketch for Small Cottage. - -Jas. D. Hunter Jr. Architect. New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XVII - -Bungalow with Attic. - -Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XVIII - -A house planned to meet the requirements of a 50 ft. suburban lot. - -Rossiter and Wright Architects.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XIX - -Cottage on Side Hill. - -Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XX - -A Double Cottage. - -Frank F. Ward. Architect. 59 Astor House, N.Y.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XXI - -Pair of Semi-detached Cottages. - -Chas. I. Berg. Architect. N.Y.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XXII - -Semi-Detached Homes for a Village Street. - -Fredk. B. White. Architect. 294 Broadway, New York.] - -[Illustration: PLATE XXIII - -Sketch for a small double house. - -Wm. B. Tuthill. Architect. 52 Broadway, N.Y.] - - - - -[Illustration: ADVERTISEMENTS] - - -DURHAM SYSTEM OF HOUSE DRAINAGE. - -THE Durham House Drainage Company OF NEW YORK. - -MANUFACTURING THE DURHAM PATENT SYSTEM OF SCREW-JOINT IRON HOUSE DRAINAGE - -TRUSTEES: - - JOSEPH P. DAVIS, Vice-Pres’t Am. Soc. C. E. - RUDOLPH HERING, M. Am. Soc. C. E. - DANIEL P. BRUNER, M. Am. Soc. C. E. - HENRY G. PROUT, M. Am. Soc. C. E. - C. W. DURHAM, M. Am. Soc. C. E. - WM. H. BOARDMAN. - DR. C. FAYETTE TAYLOR. - FLOYD B. WILSON. - CHAS. P. WHITNEY. - - C. W. DURHAM, PRESIDENT. - CHAS. P. WHITNEY, SECRETARY. - WM. PAUL GERHARD, CHIEF ENG’R. - JOSEPH P. DAVIS, VICE-PRESIDENT. - HENRY G. PROUT, TREASURER. - H. C. VAIL, GENERAL AGENT. - -NEW YORK CITY, 231-235 East Forty-Second Street. - -_ALBANY, RICHARD PRESCOTT, M.E. 86 State Street._ - -_PHILADELPHIA, 114 S. Sixth St. (Ledger Building.)_ - -_BROOKLYN, 26 Court St. (40 Garfield Building.)_ - -MECHANICAL PERFECTION IN SCIENTIFIC PLUMBING. - -The Durham system of construction for house drains provides absolute -and permanent security from sewer malaria, and relief from expenses for -repairs. - -The Durham Companies construct all work with their own workmen, under -the supervision of their own engineers. Expert mechanics are sent to any -distance to execute contracts. - -All work is of standard quality, fully guaranteed, and furnished at an -ordinary manufacturing profit, at a cost no greater than is asked for the -best class of old style plumbing. Its permanance renders it cheaper than -the cheapest kind of “skin” plumbing. - -The Durham system will be constructed in old or new buildings, including -or excluding the balance of the plumbing work, fixtures and gas fitting, -as may be desired. - -The Durham system can be cheaply introduced into old buildings, making -them fresh and wholesome. - -Illustrated Pamphlets Sent on Application. - - * * * * * - -APPLETON’S HOME-BOOKS. - -Appleton’s Home-Books are now put up in three volumes, elegantly bound in -cloth, four books to a volume, as follows: - - { BUILDING A HOME. Illustrated. - Volume One: { HOW TO FURNISH A HOME. Illustrated. - { THE HOME GARDEN. Illustrated. - { HOME GROUNDS. Illustrated. - - { HOME DECORATION. Illustrated. - Volume Two: { THE HOME NEEDLE. Illustrated. - { AMENITIES OF HOME. - { HOUSEHOLD HINTS. - - { THE HOME LIBRARY. Illustrated. - Volume Three: { HOME OCCUPATIONS. Illustrated. - { HOME AMUSEMENTS. - { HEALTH AT HOME. - -_Each four books make a large handsome, 12mo volume, printed on extra -fine paper and elegantly bound. Sold in sets, or each volume separately. -Price, $2 per volume. (The separate books may be obtained; price, 60 -cents each.)_ - -“A series of hand-books devoted to the practical scheme of home-making. -The work is planned with especial reference to the needs of the great -body of plain people to whom economy is a prime element in the problem, -but to whom beauty and healthfulness and perfect service are also -indispensable.”—_Home Journal._ - -New York: D. APPLETON & CO., Publishers, 1, 3 and 5 Bond Street. - - * * * * * - -100 Page ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE of BOOKS on - - ARCHITECTURE, - BUILDING, - CARPENTRY, - PAINTING, - DECORATION, _and_ - ORNAMENT. - -SENT TO ANY ADDRESS ON RECEIPT OF 10 CENTS. - -William T. Comstock, Publisher, No. 6 ASTOR PLACE, New York. - - * * * * * - -The attention of architects, builders and house owners is called to the -only practical fixture for opening and closing outside-blinds, from -within the house, without raising the windows or removing window screen. -With each set of fixtures is furnished all the iron-ware necessary for -hanging a pair of blinds. The hinges are the strongest and most durable -of any in the market; they, and all other parts of the fixture, are -made of malleable-iron and subjected to a process which renders them -rust-proof. They can be applied to blinds already hung, as well as to new -work. - -[Illustration] - -For full information apply to - -The Dudley Shutter-Worker and Burglar-Alarm Co., Rooms 105 and 106 Temple -Court, 5 Beekman Street, New York City. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration] - -N. H. EGLESTON JR. No. 7 East Washington Place N.Y. - - MOSAIC GLASS - CURTAINS - TEXTILES - CABINET WOODWORKS - MEMORIAL WINDOWS - AND general leaded glass work for ecclesiastical and domestic use - GAS FIXTURES - Ceiling Designs - AND Mural Decoration - BRASS and OTHER METAL WORK - Glass Mosaics - Designs and estimates for all sorts of interior decoration - - * * * * * - -RECENTLY PUBLISHED. - -[Illustration: DESIGN SELECTED FROM “AMERICAN COTTAGES.”] - -A NEW AND IMPORTANT WORK, - -AMERICAN COTTAGES, - -CONSISTING OF 44 LARGE QUARTO PLATES, - -CONTAINING - -Original Designs of Medium and Low Cost Cottages, Seaside and Country -Houses. Also, a Club House, School House, Pavilion, and a Small Seaside -Chapel, - -TOGETHER WITH A FORM OF SPECIFICATION FOR COTTAGES. - -All in the latest prevailing styles, from the drawings of a number -of prominent architects, thus securing a great variety of plans and -diversity of treatment, and offering the largest opportunity for -selection. - -ONE LARGE QUARTO VOL. PRICE, POST PAID, $5. - -PRESS NOTICES. - -Such books as this ... do absolute good to the profession at large, -by showing the public how infinite are the ways of treating the same -problem, and that even if the appropriation is small, it is not necessary -that the building should be in the carpenter vernacular.—_Am. Architect._ - -This is a very handsomely gotten up book ... some of the designs are -very fine and are in full accord with the present prevailing styles of -architecture, and will be found useful to the man who is about to build, -as well as to the architectural student and professional builder. The -work reflects credit on the publisher.—_Builder and Wood-worker._ - -... The designs are unique, beautiful, and can be erected at small -cost.—_Lumber Trade Journal._ - -Devoted to low priced houses ... is a good exhibit of artistic feeling in -their treatment.—_Am. Agriculturalist._ - -The whole work is an invaluable one to those contemplating building.—_The -Criterion._ - -Persons about to build will like to consult the collection of designs ... -gathered in American Cottages.—_Home Journal._ - -Affords a fine field of selection from the latest and most approved -styles of Modern Architecture.—_The Tradesman._ - - * * * * * - -JUST PUBLISHED. - -A NEW AND REVISED EDITION - -_of this important work of especial interest to Architects, Builders, -Painters and House Owners_. - -MODERN HOUSE PAINTING - -This edition has several new plates, and the whole system of coloring -has been thoroughly revised; new plates in several instances being -substituted for the old ones; the letter press describing the plates has -been entirely re-written, making it practically a new book. - -It contains twenty colored lithographic plates, exhibiting the use of -color in Exterior and Interior House Painting, and embracing examples of -simple and elaborate work in plain, graded and parti-colors. Also the -treatment of old styles of houses, together with full descriptive letter -press, covering the preparation, use and application of colors, with -special directions applicable to each example. The whole work offering -valuable hints and suggestions on harmonious color treatment, suitable to -every variety of building. - -By E. K. ROSSITER and F. A. WRIGHT, Architects. - -1 oblong quarto volume, handsomely bound in cloth. Price, post-paid, $5.00 - - * * * * * - -Building Superintendence. - -By Professor THEODORE M. CLARK. - -1 volume. Profusely illustrated with plans, diagrams, etc. Price, $3.00 - -An exceedingly valuable work, based on the series of thirty articles -recently published in _The American Architect_, and so fully illustrated -with cuts and diagrams that every point is made very plain. The countless -problems involved in the overseeing of the construction of buildings -are stated, studied and solved in a practical, direct and perfectly -comprehensible manner. - -WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, Publisher, 6 Astor Place, New York. - - * * * * * - -RECENTLY PUBLISHED. - -INTERIORS AND INTERIOR DETAILS - -[Illustration: _Miniature Illustration. Selected from “Interiors and -Interior Details.”_] - -Fifty-two large quarto plates, comprising a large number of original -designs of Halls, Stair-cases, Parlors, Libraries, Dining-Rooms, etc. -Together with special designs for Low Cost, Medium and Elaborate Wood -Mantels, Sideboards, Furniture, Wood Ceilings, Doors, Door and Window -Trims, Wainscots, Bank, Office and Store Fittings, in Perspective, -Elevation and Detail, making a valuable series of Suggestions for -Architects, Architectural Designers, Builders and persons intending -to build. And a large collection of interior details suited to the -requirements of carpenters, builders and mechanics, reproduced from the -drawings of prominent architects of New York, Boston, Chicago and other -cities. With an Introduction, Description of Plates, and Notes on Wood -Finish. - -By WILLIAM B. TUTHILL, A. M., Architect. Author of “Practical Lessons in -Architectural Drawing.” - -1 large quarto volume, handsomely bound in cloth. Price, post-paid, $7.50 - -WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, Publisher, 6 Astor Place, New York. - - * * * * * - -JUST PUBLISHED. - -_An Entirely New and Original Work._ - -PRACTICAL LESSONS IN ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING - -OR - -How to Make the Working Drawings for Buildings. - -_44 pages descriptive letter press, illustrated by 33 full page plates -(one in colors), and 33 woodcuts, showing methods of construction and -representation._ - -The work embraces Scale Drawings of Plans, Elevations, Sections and -Details of Frame, Brick and Stone Buildings, with full descriptions and a -form of Specifications adapted to the same. - -Suited to the wants of Architectural Students, Carpenters, Builders, and -all desirous of acquiring a thorough knowledge of Architectural DRAWING -and CONSTRUCTION. - -CONTENTS. - -CHAP. I.—_Introduction._ CHAP. II.—_A Small Frame House._ CHAP. III.—_A -Frame Building._ CHAP. IV.—_A Brick Building._ CHAP. V.—_A Stone -Building._ CHAP. VI.—_The Specifications._ CHAP. VII.—_Color._ - -By WILLIAM B. TUTHILL, A.M., Architect. - -One large 8vo volume, oblong. Cloth. Price, post-paid, $2.50 - -EDITORIAL NOTICES. - -The author has made the most complete and most practical book for -students and builders, ever prepared in this country.—_The American -Bookseller._ - -The Work is designed as a guide to the making of working drawings and -specifications for buildings and is a valuable and practical aid for -carpenters, builders and architectural students.—_The Publishers Weekly._ - -This work is of a purely practical and useful kind, and such as we have -frequently had inquiries for. To the carpenter, joiner or architectural -student who is struggling to obtain a knowledge of architectural drawing -and construction, this work will prove of great value.—_The Builder and -Woodworker._ - -We have been favored with a number of advance sheets of the above work, -and find it, both in conception and execution, worthy of unqualified -praise. The material embraced in this volume promises to be entirely new -and original, and not the mere re-hash of a literary hack. The work will -be a most useful book of instruction.—_The Manufacturer and Builder._ - -The work is admirably described in its title. The author is a practical -architect and has made a practical book which will be of great assistance -to carpenters, builders, and students, containing just the information -they most need, and are least likely to find in books.—_The United States -News Dealer._ - -This is probably the most important work to which we have ever drawn -our readers’ attention. It contains within its covers a greater fund of -knowledge than many of the practicing architects of the day possessed -when they first entered the profession. Its usefulness to those who -desire to engage in architecture can therefore be appreciated.—_Carpentry -and Building._ - -A compact handy little manual, we commend it to students.—_N. Y. Sun._ - -His drawings are clear and thorough and so detailed as to show the whole -construction.—_The N. Y. World._ - -Young men who are seeking a profession, will find it a guide.—_N. Y. -Despatch._ - -The technical work and general construction are admirable. The details -are carefully drawn and show a practiced hand. The introduction is sound. -The work will be welcomed heartily by students and young draftsmen. To -such we cordially recommend it.—_The Sanitary Engineer._ - -—Is one of the most practical and useful books of the kind that we have -ever noticed. It may also be read with advantage by many practicing -architects.—_California Architect._ - - * * * * * - -AN IMPROVED LEVELING INSTRUMENT - -_Adapted to the use of Architects, Engineers, Masons, Builders, Farmers -and others._ - -[Illustration] - -The instrument is made of Brass and Iron, Lacquered and Japanned so that -it will not corrode, and consists of the following principal parts: - -The Sighting Tube A A´. The Horizontal Circle and the lower Disc or Base -B. - -Price of Instrument, Complete, $20. - -THE ONLY LOW PRICED LEVEL THAT CAN BE THOROUGHLY ADJUSTED IN THE FIELD. - -DESCRIPTION OF THE LEVEL. - -The sighting tube A A´ is 14 in. long and has at the end A´ a pin hole -looking through the tube, and at the other end A a small ring inside the -brass shield or outer ring shown in cut holding the cross wires. A cover -is provided as shown in cut to protect the cross wires. This tube rests -in the Ys, Y and Y´. On this tube at the Ys are two rings with flanges, -like car wheels, and it is held in its place by the latches on the top of -the Ys. By loosening these latches this sighting tube may be revolved to -test the adjustment of the cross wires. - -At the feet of the Ys will be seen the nuts, one above and one below the -end of the cross bar, which may be turned, thus raising or lowering the -end of the tube and adjusting the line of sight to the line of level. The -circle C is graduated to 10° and the pointer marked to degrees, so that -the instrument may be used in laying off angles, squaring foundations, -&c. The pointer is movable and can be fixed in position by the set screw -shown in the cut just below the cross bar. The cross bar carries the -glass bubble which is seen in the cut. The bubble itself may be adjusted -by the screws. To the circle are attached the two thumb screws and -springs opposite to them by means of which the instrument is brought to a -level. - -In the outer edge of the Base B is a smoothly turned groove in which -the feet of the screws and springs may slip easily whenever it may be -necessary to revolve the circle on the base. The centre of the base is -formed into a socket for the ball referred to above. The under surface -has a solid cylinder which screws in the collar of the tripod. The cord -suspending the plumb-bob drops from the centre of the instrument to which -it is attached by a loop not shown in the cut. From this description it -will be seen that this instrument can be _adjusted_ in every way possible -in the highest priced instruments, and has besides the additional feature -of a horizontal circle, making it in reality a plain transit, as well as -level. - -_Every instrument will be completely adjusted before it is shipped._ - -The instrument is put up in a handsome wooden box with strap for carrying -and furnished with a surveyor’s tripod and a short or mason’s tripod. - -PRICE OF INSTRUMENT COMPLETE, $20. - -Forwarded by express on receipt of price. The charges of transportation -from New York to the purchaser are in all cases to be borne by him, I -guaranteeing the safe arrival of all instruments to the extent of express -transportations, and holding the express companies responsible to me for -all losses or damages on the way. - -A NEW LEVELING ROD. - -[Illustration] - -This rod is round and made in two sections, so that it can be -conveniently carried, is united by a solid screw joint, so that when -together it is as firm as if of one length, and has a target as shown in -illustration, made to slide on the rod. - -There are two scales: one side being Engineer’s (feet, 10ths and 100ths); -the other Architect’s scale (or feet, inches and 8ths). - -Forwarded by express on receipt of price. The charges of transportation -from New York to the purchaser are in all cases to be borne by him. -Price, $6.00 Where the Level is ordered with the rod, the price of the -two will be, $25.00. - -WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, Manufacturer, 6 Astor Place, New York. - - * * * * * - -JUST PUBLISHED. - -MODERN - -Architectural Designs & Details - -[Illustration: Miniature of Plate 44, full size 9 × 12.] - -CONTAINING 80 FINELY LITHOGRAPHED PLATES; - -showing new and original designs of _Dwellings of Moderate Cost_, in the -_Queen Anne_, _Eastlake_, _Elizabethan_, and other modernized styles, -giving Perspective Views, Floor and Framing Plans, Elevations, Sections, -and a great variety of miscellaneous EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR DETAILS of -Dwellings, Stores, Offices, etc. Also, a number of designs of _Low Priced -Cottages_, in the various popular styles, adapted to the requirements of -_Seaside and Summer Resorts_, and - -Suburban and Country Places, - -comprising drawings by prominent architects of New York, Boston and other -localities, as well as other designs prepared expressly for this work. -All Elevations, Plans and Details to Scale. - -One Large (11 × 14) Quarto Volume, handsomely bound in Cloth. - -Price, post-paid, $10.00. - -☞ For Contents, see following pages. Preface and Contents in English and -German. - - * * * * * - -MODERN - -Architectural Designs and Details. - -PRICE, POST-PAID, $10.00. - -CONTENTS: - - Plate 1—Perspective View and Plans of Queen Anne Cottage. - - Plate 2—Three Elevations of same to ⅛ inch Scale. - - Plate 3—Framing Plans, showing Construction. - - Plate 4—Exterior Details of same, ¼ and ¾ inch Scale and Rear - Elevation. - - Plate 5—Exterior Details of same, ¼ and ¾ inch Scale. - - Plate 6—Interior Details of same, ¼ and ¾ inch Scale. - - Plate 7—Porch and Details, ½ and ¾ inch Scale, miscellaneous. - - Plate 8—4 Piazzas and Details, ½ and ¾ inch Scale, - miscellaneous. - - Plate 9—Store Front, Scale, ¼ inch, 1 foot - Details of Show Window, ” ½ ” 1 ” - 3 Designs for Counters. ” ½ ” 1 ” - Elevation of Shelves with Sections, ” 1 ” 1 ” - - Plate 10—3 Store Counters and Sections. - 2 Designs for Shelving and Sections. - 1 Case with Glass Front and Drawers, Scale, ½ in., 1 ft. - - Plate 11—20 Designs for Brackets, ” ¾ ” 1 ” - - Plate 12—4 Designs for Gates and Fences, ” ¾ ” 1 ” - - Plate 13—10 Designs Window Caps and Hoods, ” 3 ” 1 ” - - Plate 14—24 Designs Architraves and Bases, ” 3 ” 1 ” - 2 Designs Wainscoting, ” ¾ ” 1 ” - 2 Designs Window Sills and Aprons, ” 3 ” 1 ” - - Plate 15—17 Designs, Sections and details of Balconies, Scale, - ⅜ & ¾ inch, 1 foot. - - Plate 16—6 Elevations and 3 Plans of low priced cottages, - costing from $500 to $1,500, according to locality. We do not - publish cost in book, as we prefer to have builders fix prices - as per requirements. Scale of Elevations and Plans, ³⁄₃₂ inch, - 1 foot. - - Plate 17—6 Elevations and 3 Plans of low priced Cottages, in - Queen Anne style, costing from $500 to $1,500 and upwards, - according to locality and style of finish. Scale, ³⁄₃₂ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 18—2 Designs and Details of Summer Houses Scale, ½ & ¼ - in. 1 ft. - - Plate 19—Perspective View and Plans of House Suitable for - Seaside, Summer or Southern Residence, Scale, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 20—3 Elevations of Design Plate 19. Scale, ⅛ & ⅟₁₆ in, 1 - ft. - - Plate 21—Framing Plans of Design Plate 19. Scale, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 22—Exterior Details of Design Plate 19 Scale, ½ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 23—Interior Details of Design Plate 19 Scale, ½ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 24—9 Designs of Window Sash, Queen Anne Style Scale, ¾ - in. 1 ft. - - Plate 25—2 Elevations and Details of Stores of moderate cost, - with Dwellings above. Scale, ⅟₁₆, ⅛ and ¾ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 26—Elevations and Details of Stores in Queen Anne Style. - Scale, ¼,1½ and 3 in. 1 ft. - - Plate 27—2 Elevations and Basement Plan of a First Class Modern - Dwelling, to cost about $5,000. Scale of Elevations. ⅛ in. - Scale of Plan. ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 28—First and Second Floor Plans of Design shown on Plates - 27 and 29 Scale ⅛ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 29—2 Elevations and Attic Plan of Design Plate 27. Scale - of Elevations, ⅓ in. Scale of Plan, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 30—Details of Front Porch Architraves Panels of Front - Door, etc., of Design Plates 27 and 29. Scale, indicated on - plate. - - Plate 31—Details of Rear Porch, Front Gable, Balustrade, - Cornice, Water Table, Shingles, and View of Flower Balcony. - Scale, ¼ and 1 in. 1 ft. - - Plate 32—20 Designs of Exterior and Interior Cornices and Belt - Courses. Scale, ½ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 33—5 Cornices, Wood, Terra Cotta and Stone. Scale, 1 in. - 1 ft. - - Plate 34—4 Designs for Single Doors, and 2 Designs and Sections - of Front and Vestibule Doors. Scale, ½ and 1½ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 35—8 Designs for Exterior and Interior Doors Scale, ½ - in. Details of Panels. ½ full size, and 9 Designs of full size - Mouldings. - - Plate 36—15 Designs of Windows. Scale, ¼ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 37—2 Designs and Details of Bay Windows. Scale, ¼ and ¾ - in. 1 ft. - - Plate 38—Plans, Elevations and View of a Suburban House of - moderate cost. Scale indicated on plate. - - Plate 39—Details of Design Plate 38. Scale, ½ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 40—Elevations and Sections of Hall, Library, Parlor and 2 - Chamber Mantels. Scale, ½ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 41—Perspective View and Plans of House costing $6,000. - Plans to scale. - - Plate 42—2 Elevations of Design Plate 41. Scale, ⅓ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 43—Exterior Details of Design Plates 41 and 42. Scale, ½ - in. 1 ft. General Piazza Details; Front Gable Details; Dormer - in Small Gable; Tower Dormer; Finial on Tower Roof; Section - through Main Cornice; Cut Shingles; Small Posts Dormer, with - Balcony. - - Plate 44—Interior Details of Design Plates 41 and 42. Stair - Details Rail and Balustrade; scale 1 in. 1 ft.; Bracket in - Hall: scale, 1 in. 1 ft.; Bracket used on Beam between Library - and Sitting Room; scale, 3 in. 1 ft.; Window finish; scale, 3 - in. 1 ft.; Elevation of Staircase; scale, 1½ in. 1 ft.; Small - Post, scale, 1½ in. 1 ft.; Bracket on Small Posts; scale, 1½ - in. 1 ft.; Roll stopping Hand Rail on Newel Post; scale, 1½ - in. 1 ft.; Rosette on Newel; scale, 1½ in. 1 ft.; Stair Newel; - scale, 1½ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 45—Perspective View of Queen Anne House at Short Hills, - N. J., with Oriel Bay Window and 4 plans. Plans to scale. Cost - $6,000. - - Plate 46—Front and Side Elevations of Design Plate 45; scale, ⅓ - in. 1 ft. - - Plate 47—Exterior Details, Design Plates 45 and 46; scale, ½ - in. 1 ft.; Bracket over Balcony; Water Table, etc.; Section - through Verandah; Tower Finial; Triplet Window in side Gable; - Carved Panels under front Gable Window; Section through Oriel; - Porch Gable. - - Plate 48—Interior Details, Design Plates 45 and 46; scale - of Elevations, ½ in. 1 ft.; scale of details, 1½ in. 1 ft.; - Interior of Hall; Newel; Baluster Rail, etc.; Wainscot; Hall - Arch; Triplet Window; Horizontal section; Section through - window sill; Cornice. - - Plate 49—Perspective View and Plans of a Sea or Lake-Shore - Cottage. Plans to Scale. - - Plate 50—Water Front and Side Elevation of Design Plate 49. - Drawn to scale. - - Plate 51—Perspective View of Main Hall of Design Plate 49. Half - Plan at Fireplace; Half Plan at Shelf; Plan and Elevation of - Drawing Room; scale, ¼ in. Details of Porch, Gable and Chimney - at ½ in. scale. - - Plate 52—2 Sea-Side Cottages or Southern Houses, with Front - Elevations and Plans of First Floor; Scale, ³⁄₃₂ in. - - Plate 53—3 Small Sea-Shore or Southern Cottages, Two Elevations - of each and one Plan of each. Scale of Elevations, 12 ft. to 1 - in. Scale of Plan 24 and 36 ft. to 1 in. - - Plate 54—5 Designs for Lattice Work. Scale, ⅛ in. to 1 ft. - - Plate 55—6 Specimens of Sea-Side Cottages. Scale Design No. 1, - ⅛ in. to 1 ft. Scale Designs No. 2 to 6, ³⁄₃₂ in. to 1 ft. - - Plate 56—Inside Finish of a Summer Cottage. Fireplace, Niche - and Plan Scale. ⅜ in. to 1 ft. Staircase Details and Bracket - under Beam. Scale, 1 in. to 1 ft. - - Plate 57—Front and North Elevations of a Lake View Cottage. - Scale, ⅛ in. - - Plate 58—Plans of First and Second Floors, Roof and Attic. - Scale, ⅟₁₆ in. - - Plate 59—South and Rear Elevations of Lake View Cottage. Scale, - ⅛ in. - - Plate 60—Details of Lake View Cottage. Hall, Fire-Place and - Section Scale, ⅜ in. Exterior Finish Scale, ¼ in. Interior - Finish Scale, ¾ in. - - Plate 61—Plan, Elevations and Sections of a Dining Room Closet. - Scale of Design, ½ in. Scale of Details, 1½ in. - - Plate 62—Plans, Elevations, Details and Sections of 2 Wash Bowl - Cabinets. Scales, 1 and 3 in. - - Plate 63—5 Elevations and 4 Plans of Low Priced Colonial - Cottages. Scale, ³⁄₃₂ in. - - Plate 64—Turned Work. 5 Designs of Posts, 18 Designs of - Balusters, 3 Designs of Columns, 6 Designs of Drops and 6 - Designs of Finials. - - Plate 65—Perspective View and Plans of a Modern Dwelling - costing about $3,500. Scale of Plans, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 66—2 Elevations and Sections of Design Plate 65. Scale, ⅛ - in. 1 ft. - - Plate 67—Exterior and Interior Details of Design, plate 65. - Scale ½ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 68—A Balcony Gable. Scale, ½ in. 1 ft. Section, ¼ in. - Plan, ⅓ in. Section of Cornices at ½ full size. Baluster, ½ - full size. - - Plate 69—Design of House recently Erected in California. This - plate shows 2 Plans, 2 Elevations, Sections and Details. Scale, - ⅟₁₆ to ¼ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 70—3 Designs and Details of Verge Boards. Scale of - Designs, ½ in. 1 ft. Details, 1½ in. - - Plate 71—2 Plans and 2 Elevations of Dwelling House showing - Eastlake features. Scale, ⅛ in. 1 ft. to ⅟₃₂ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 72—4 Elevations and 4 Sections of Ventilators. Scale, ¼ - in. 1 ft. to ¾ in. 1 ft. - - Plate 73—Perspective View and Plans of Brick and Frame Cottage. - Scale, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 foot. - - Plate 74—Three Elevations of Design, Plate 73. Scale, ⅛ and ⅟₁₆ - in. 1 ft. - - Plate 75—Exterior and Interior Details of Design, Plate 73, - embracing Details of Main Cornice, Parlor Bay, Porch, Cresting, - Front Staircase and Parlor Mantel. Scales, ½ in. and 1½ in. 1 - foot. - - Plate 76—Dwelling in the Elizabethan Style. Elevations and - Plans. Scale, ³⁄₃₂ in. 1 foot. - - Plate 77—Fittings for Banking or Insurance Office. Elevations - and Sections of Counter and Screen; Partition, Balusters, Rail, - Desk, &c. Scale, ½ in. 1 foot. - - Plate 78—Bank Fixtures, 2 Elevations of Bank Desks, Sections of - same and Details. Scale of Elevations, ¾ in. 1 foot; Scale of - Details, 3 in. 1 foot. - - Plate 79—Ventilating Registers, cut in Brass, 2 circular, 2 - oblong, and 3 spandril. Scale, ⅓ and ¼ full size. - - Plate 80—Eight Designs for Chimney Tops. Scale, ½ in. 1 foot. - - * * * * * - -$10.00, Reduced to $6.00. - -THIS VALUABLE BOOK, - -Detail, Cottage and Constructive Architecture. - -[Illustration] - -Containing Seventy-Five Large Lithographic Plates, Published under the -direction of A. J. BICKNELL. - -Showing a great variety of Designs for Cornices, Brackets, Windows -and Window Caps, Doors, Piazzas, Porches, Bay and Dormer Windows, -Observatories, Towers, Chimney Tops, Balconies, Canopies, Scrolls, Gable -and Sawed Ornaments, Fences, Stairs, Newels, Architraves, Mantels, -Plaster Finish, Etc., including: Forty-five Perspectives, Elevations, -and Plans of Modern Designs for Cottages, with Details, and Eighteen -Elevations of Summer Houses, Villas, Sea-Side Cottages, and Country -Houses, together with Fourteen Designs for Street and Store Fronts, -with inside finish for Stores and Banks; also, Framing for Dwellings, -Barns, Exhibition Buildings, Roofs, Bridges, etc., etc., making in all -a Practical Book for Architects, Builders, Carpenters, and all who -contemplate Building or Remodeling Wood, Stone, or Brick Buildings. - -ONE LARGE QUARTO VOLUME. SENT FREE, BY MAIL OR EXPRESS, ON RECEIPT OF -PRICE. $6.00. - -_For description of Plates see following pages._ - - * * * * * - -RECENTLY PUBLISHED. - -[Illustration: “ARTISTIC HOMES.”] - -BY A. W. FULLER, Architect, - -Containing 44 Plates of Queen Anne and Colonial Style Villas and -Cottages, costing from $700 upwards - -_One large (8½ × 12 inches) volume, handsomely bound in Cloth._ - -PRICE, POST-PAID, $3.50. - -CONTENTS: - - Plate I.—Perspective View of Stone and tile villa. - - Plate II.—Floor Plans of Plate I. - - Plate III.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate I, - showing staircase and terra cotta mantel. - - Plate IV.—Perspective View of Dining Room of Plate I, showing - fireplace, recess, sideboard, dining table and furniture. - - Plate V.—Perspective View of brick and tile villa. - - Plate VI.—Floor Plans of Plate V. - - Plate VII.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate V, - showing staircase, fireplace under staircase in arched recess, - and entrance to conservatory. - - Plate VIII.—Perspective View of wood villa. - - Plate IX.—Floor Plans of Plate VIII. - - Plate X.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate VIII, - showing staircase, &c. - - Plate XI.—Perspective View of dining room of Plate VIII, - showing fireplace and mantel, and furniture. - - Plate XII.—Perspective View of “The old made new.” - - Plate XIII.—Perspective View of wood villa. - - Plate XIV.—Floor Plans of Plate XIII. - - Plate XV.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate XIII, - showing staircase, &c. - - Plate XVI.—Perspective View of wood villa. - - Plate XVII.—Floor Plans of villa No. XVI. - - Plate XVIII.—Perspective View of brick and tile villa. - - Plate XIX.—Floor Plans of Plate XVIII. - - Plate XX.—Perspective View of wood villa. - - Plate XXI.—Floor Plans of Plate XX. - - Plate XXII.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage. - - Plate XXIII.—Floor Plans of Plate XXII. - - Plate XXIV.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage. - - Plate XXV.—Floor Plans of Plate XXIV. - - Plate XXVI.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage. - - Plate XXVII.—Floor Plans of Plate XXVI. - - Plate XXVIII.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage. - - Plate XXIX.—Floor Plans of Plate XXVIII. - - Plate XXX.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage. - - Plate XXXI.—Floor Plans of Plate XXX. - - Plate XXXII.—Perspective View of Seaside Cottage (wood). - - Plate XXXIII.—Floor Plans of Plate XXXII. - - Plate XXXIV.—Perspective View of Seaside Cottage (wood). - - Plate XXXV.—Floor Plans of Plate XXXIV. - - Plate XXXVI.—Perspective View of Bed-room Interior, showing - furniture. - - Plate XXXVII.—Perspective View of Bed-room Interior, showing - furniture. - - Plate XXXVIII.—Explanation of the Drainage and Plumbing. - - Plate XXXIX.—Drawing showing the Drain and Plumbing. - - Plate XL.—Perspective View of a City House Front. - - Plate XLI.—Floor Plans of Plate XL. - - Plate XLII.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate XL., - showing Staircase, Hatstand, &c. - - Plate XLIII.—Floor Plans of a City House built in a block. - - Plate XLIV.—Perspective View of a Country Church built of brick - and Stone, and costing $10,000. - - * * * * * - -STANDARD ARCHITECTURAL BOOKS - -=BICKNELL’S DETAIL, COTTAGE AND CONSTRUCTIVE ARCHITECTURE.= Containing -seventy-five large Lithographic Plates, published under the direction -of A. J. BICKNELL, showing a great variety of Designs for Cornices, -Brackets, Windows and Window Caps, Doors, Piazzas, Porches, Bay and -Dormer Windows, Observatories, Towers, Chimney Tops, Balconies, Canopies, -Scrolls, Gable and Sawed Ornaments, Fences, Stairs, Newels, Architraves, -Mantles, Plaster Finish, etc., including forty-five Perspectives, -Elevations and Plans of Modern Designs for Cottages, with Details, and -eighteen Elevations of Summer Houses, Villas, Seaside Cottages and -Country Houses, together with fourteen Designs for Street and Store -Fronts, with inside finish for Stores and Banks; also Framing for -Dwellings, Barns, Exhibition Buildings, Roofs, Bridges, etc., making -in all a Practical Book for Architects, Builders, Carpenters, and all -who contemplate Building or Remodeling Wood, Stone or Brick Buildings. -One large 4to volume, sent free by mail or express on receipt of price. -Reduced from $10.00 to $6.00. - -=BROWN’S BUILDING TABLE AND ESTIMATE BOOK.= By a Practical Mechanic. For -Carpenters, Builders and Lumber Men. One 8vo volume, cloth, 152 pages. -$1.50. - -=CAMP’S DRAFTSMAN’S MANUAL; or, How Can I Learn Architecture.= By F. T. -CAMP. Containing Hints to Enquirers and Directions in Draftsmanship. -Contents:—Introduction; Preliminary Words; Draftsman’s Outfit; Technics -of Planning; General Remarks on Planning; General Remarks on Exteriors; -Drawing the Plan; Using the Instruments; Designing the Elevations; -Tracing and Inking; Proportion of Rooms. New, Revised and Enlarged -Edition. One small volume, cloth. Price 50c. - -=CUMMINGS’ ARCHITECTURAL DETAILS.= By M. F. CUMMINGS, M. A., Architect, -Associate Author of “Architecture, by Cummings and Miller.” Containing -387 Designs and 967 Illustrations of the Various Parts needed in the -Construction of Buildings, Public and Private, both for the City and -Country; also Plans and Elevations of Houses, Stores, Cottages, and other -Buildings. One large 4to volume, fifty-six Plates. Reduced from $10.00 to -$6.00. - -=GARDNER’S COMMON SENSE IN CHURCH BUILDING.= By E. C. GARDNER, author of -“Homes and How to Make them,” “Illustrated Homes,” and “Home Interiors.” -Illustrated by seven original Plates. One 12mo volume, handsomely bound -in cloth. Price $1.00. - -=GOULD’S CARPENTERS’ AND BUILDERS’ ASSISTANT AND WOODWORKERS’ GUIDE.= -By L. D. GOULD, Architect and Practical Builder. (Fourth Revised -Edition) Containing thirty-six Plates, fully described. Also, Tables -of the Strength of Materials, Length of Braces where the Run is given, -and Length of Run where the Brace is given. Technical Terms used by -Carpenters, etc. This work is intended to combine all the knowledge the -workman requires to construct any design in carpentry by an easy system -of lines. 8vo volume, bound in cloth. Price $2.50. - -=HULME’S TREATISE ON MATHEMATICAL DRAWING INSTRUMENTS, and How to Use -Them.= One imperial 16mo volume, bound in cloth, containing 152 Pages, -and over 70 Illustrations, including 11 different Styles of Lettering. -Price $1.50. - -=HUSSEY’S HOME BUILDING.= This work contains 42 Plates of Designs and -Plans of Dwellings of low and medium cost, with short Descriptive -Specifications, including 2 Designs for Small Barns, 1 Design for -Carriage-House, 1 Design for Small Bank Building, 1 Design for Small -Chapel, and 1 Design for a Church. Nearly 400 pages in all, including -letter-press. Price $2.50. - -=INTERIORS AND INTERIOR DETAILS.= With an Introduction, Description of -Plates, and Notes on Wood Finish, by WM. B. TUTHILL, A. M., Architect, -author of “Practical Lessons in Architectural Drawing.” Fifty-two large -quarto plates, comprising a large number of original designs of Halls, -Staircases, Parlors, Libraries, Dining rooms, etc. Together with special -designs for Low Cost, Medium and Elaborate Wood Mantels, Sideboards, -Furniture, Wood Ceilings, Doors, Door and Window Trims, Wainscots, -Bank Office, and Store Fittings, in Perspective, Elevation and Detail, -making a valuable series of Suggestions for Architects and Architectural -Designers. And a large collection of interior details suited to the -requirements of carpenters, builders and mechanics, reproduced from the -drawings of prominent architects of New York, Boston, Chicago, and other -cities. One large quarto volume, handsomely bound in cloth. Price $7.50. - -=MITCHELL’S STEPPING-STONE TO ARCHITECTURE.= By THOMAS MITCHELL. Nearly -100 engravings. Price 60c. - -=ROSSITER & WRIGHT’S MODERN HOUSE PAINTING.= (New Edition). By E. K. -ROSSITER and F. A. WRIGHT, Architects. Containing 20 colored lithographic -plates, exhibiting the use of color in the Exterior and Interior House -Painting, and embracing examples of simple and elaborate work in plain, -graded and parti-colors. Also the treatment of old style of houses, -together with full descriptive letter press, covering the preparation, -use and application of colors, with special directions applicable to -each example. The whole work offering valuable hints and suggestions on -harmonious color treatment, suitable to every variety of building. One -oblong quarto volume, handsomely bound in cloth. Price $5.00. - -=TUTHILL’S PRACTICAL LESSONS IN ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING; Or, How to Make -the Working Drawings for Buildings.= By WM. B. TUTHILL, A. M., Architect. -44 pages descriptive letter-press, illustrated by 33 full-page plates -(one in colors) and 33 wood-cuts, showing methods of construction and -representation. One large 8vo volume, oblong. Cloth. Price $2.50. - -=WITHERS’ CHURCH ARCHITECTURE.= By FREDERICK CLARK WITHERS. Illustrated -with Plans, Elevations and Views of twenty-one Churches and two School -Houses, Photo-Lithographed from original drawings; also full descriptive -letter-press, which includes numerous engravings on wood, showing -construction and details. One large volume of fifty-one 9 × 10 Plates, -substantially bound in extra cloth. Sent by express to any part of the -United States on receipt of the price $10.00. - - * * * * * - -HINTS ON THE Drainage and Sewerage of Dwellings. - -By WM. PAUL GERHARD, Civil Engineer. - -One 12mo volume. Cloth, Price, $2.50. - -CONTENTS. - - CHAPTER I.—Fresh Air versus Sewer Gas. - ” II.—Necessity of Ventilation in Rooms containing “Modern - Conveniences, and Defective Arrangements of Plumbing - Fixtures.” Figs. 1 to 18. - ” III.—Soil and Waste Pipe System as usually found in Dwellings. - Figs. 19 to 31. - ” IV.—Traps and Systems of Trapping. Figs 32 to 38. - ” V.—Details of Traps. Figs. 39 to 159. - ” VI.—Insecurity of Common Water Seal Traps. Figs. 160 to 164. - ” VII.—Defects in the Plumbing Work of Dwellings. - ” VIII.—Cellar Drains and Drainage of Cellars. Figs. 165 to 169. - ” IX.—Usual Defects of House Drains, Sewer Connections, Privies, - Vaults and Cesspools. Figs. 170 to 181. - ” X.—System of Plumbing as it should be inside a Dwelling. Figs. - 182 to 206. - ” XI.—Plumbing Fixtures. Figs. 207 to 262. - ” XII.—Removal and Disposal of Household Wastes. Figs. 263 to 282. - -_NOTICES OF THE PRESS._ - -Rarely do we find between the covers of one small book more satisfactory -wisdom than is contained in Mr. Wm. Paul Gerhard’s “Drainage and Sewerage -of Dwellings.”... Typographically, the book is all that can be desired, -the binding is elegant, and the illustrations are copious and clear.—_The -Builder._ - -... It contains a large amount of well-digested matter, is copiously -illustrated on almost every page, and written in a clear and direct -style.... We recommend the work to all who are interested in the subject -as a valuable addition to the existing literature on the subject -treated.—_The Sanitary Engineer._ - -Mr. Gerhard again shows his practical acquaintance with sanitary matters -and the best remedies and methods to correct the prevalent evils -connected with the application of this important science in the work -before us. The very presentable manner, in which the author treats his -subject, is by no means the least valuable feature of his literary work -in the direction indicated.—_American Engineer._ - -... While it does not pretend to be an _exhaustive_ treatise on these -subjects, it most certainly possesses a practical value, which is far -superior to many of the larger works on Dwelling House Sanitation. -The author has wisely employed the _pencil_ as well as the pen in the -illustration of his subject. And when we state the fact that there are -282 illustrations (not old ones already used in other works, but mostly -new, fresh and artistic) within the compass of 302 pages, it will be -seen that suggestion and instruction are conveyed in the most direct and -forcible manner.... There is throughout the book a remarkable absence -of any “pet theory,” or of the advertisement of any special “patent”—in -short, it is a book which we should like to see upon the library table of -every physician in the land.—_N. Y. Medical Times._ - -Our readers are already familiar with the thoroughly lucid and practical -style of Mr. Gerhard’s contributions to sanitary works. We commend this -book as a brief manual to all architects, engineers, builders, mechanics, -physicians, sanitarians and householders—to none more than the last.—_The -Sanitarian._ - -We have seen no more thorough, intelligent and convincing discussion -of the important subject of house drainage than Mr. Wm. Paul Gerhard’s -“Hints on the Drainage and Sewerage of Dwellings.”—_Literary World._ - -A volume on domestic economy, well worth examination, is _Hints on the -Drainage and Sewerage of Dwellings_, by Wm. Paul Gerhard, C. E., a 16mo. -of about 300 pages, which states clearly the correct principles and -methods, shows by copious intelligible diagrams the ordinary variations, -neglects and defects, and contains in large variety and full detail, -descriptions and drawings of the means and appliances that may be relied -on, and the principle of their construction and operation. For full, -intelligent treatment of all questions involved, both in theory and -practice, relating to the causes of trouble, the theories involved in -their treatment, and the mechanical appliances available, this is the -very best condensed manual that has yet appeared.—_The Independent._ - -This valuable little manual consists of articles from “Building,” revised -and extended, and will be found of much service by builders, architects, -physicians and householders.... It would be a good idea for every head -of a family to examine the sanitary state of his or her surroundings, -with this book as a guide.... So also, those intending to lease or buy -new houses, would find the price of the work an ounce of prevention which -could not be better expended. Mr. Gerhard is an experienced engineer, -well read in sanitary literature, and a clear and careful writer.—_The -Christian Union._ - - * * * * * - -“BUILDING.” - -AN ARCHITECTURAL MONTHLY. - -Subscription, $1.00 per Year, in advance. Single Copies, 10 cts. - -Treating on all matters of interest to the Building trades. _Each number -contains 4 full-page lithographic plates._ With the February number will -commence a series of articles on Roof Construction, fully illustrated, -by Prof. N. CLIFFORD RICKER, of the Illinois Industrial University. -The _Competition Designs for a $2,500 Cottage_ are now in course of -publication. - -Samples sent on application. Special inducements will be offered those -wishing to get up clubs; _send for club rates_. - -“SPECIAL ILLUSTRATED EDITION OF BUILDING.” - -DEVOTED TO ARCHITECTURE, FURNITURE, DECORATION AND ORNAMENT. - -_PUBLISHED MONTHLY._ - -Subscription, $5 a Year in advance. Single Copies, 50c. - -It is intended to make this a most elaborate and complete architectural -journal. It will be issued in a handsome cover, and contain in addition -to the contents of the regular issue of “BUILDING,” a large number of -Lithographic Plates, a special feature of which will be the republication -of the best designs selected from the _leading foreign journals_, so that -subscribers for this monthly will obtain the _cream_ of all the _foreign -publications_ on these subjects. - -Each number contains _16 full-page lithographic plates_. - -PRESS NOTICES - -Of “BUILDING,” and the “SPECIAL ILLUSTRATED EDITION OF BUILDING.” - -It is not often that so much and so valuable material is found at one -time in a trade journal.—_The Publishers’ Weekly._ - -In its specialty this journal cannot fail to be of the greatest service, -and all persons interested in building should avail themselves of its -store of valuable information.—_Bookseller and Stationer._ - -The magazine is well edited, and must prove very interesting to those -interested in building.—_American Machinist._ - -Mr. Comstock is to be congratulated upon the contents and general -appearance of his Special Illustrated Edition of BUILDING. We have no -doubt this new venture will be appreciated by the architectural and -building public.—_Engineering News._ - -The first number of the second volume of BUILDING, an excellent -architectural monthly, has just made its appearance. It is full of -instructive matter, and the illustrations are numerous, well executed and -interesting.—_The Evening Telegram._ - -For an architect or builder, this publication cannot fail to be of great -and continual interest.—_The New York World._ - -We are in receipt of BUILDING. It bears eloquent testimony to -eminent literary, as well as artistic talent, connected with its -publication.—_Chemical Review._ - -“BUILDING” begins its second volume with a special number filled with a -rich array of illustrations.... Persons who desire a monthly magazine, -devoted to the circle of arts, included under the title of building, will -do well to examine this work.—_Home Journal._ - -One of the handsomest and best architectural papers among our exchanges -is BUILDING. Well illustrated, printed and edited, treating on all -matters of interest to the building trade.—_Wood and Iron._ - -We most heartily congratulate Mr. Comstock on the fine appearance of -BUILDING, and feel confident he will meet with the success his energy and -enterprise deserves.—_American Real Estate Guide._ - -In the richness of contents, beauty of illustrations, the current number -of BUILDING is a decided credit to American journalism.—_Trade Review and -Western Machinist._ - -The value to the architect and builder cannot be overestimated, and the -price, five dollars a year, is a merely nominal consideration for the -subjects of interest and instruction it possesses.—_Lumber Trade Journal._ - -Very attractive in appearance, and is well worthy of liberal -patronage.—_American Engineer._ - -Nothing finer in its way has been offered to the public.—_The Mechanical -News._ - -The illustrations are very artistic.—_The Sanitary News._ - -The number before us is in itself a complete book on building and kindred -subjects.—_Chattanooga Daily Times._ - -We commend the BUILDING to our students, amateurs and professors in -architecture and building.—_Ithaca Daily Journal._ - -It is without doubt the most valuable publication of the kind published -in the country.—_Southern Lumberman._ - -One of the best architectural periodicals of the day is BUILDING.—_The -Christian Union._ - -BUILDING, an architectural monthly.... This new claimant for public favor -well deserves it.... Every number is worth the subscription price to any -who have interest in building, old or new.—_Living Church, Chicago._ - -_Persons sending 50c. for sample copy of the “SPECIAL ILLUSTRATED EDITION -OF BUILDING” will receive a receipt entitling them to the remaining -numbers for the year on receipt of $4.50, provided their subscription is -received within 60 days thereafter._ - -[Illustration: _Miniature Illustration. Selected from the “Special -Illustrated Edition of Building.”_] - -Subscription, $5.00 per Year. Single Copies, 50 cents. - -[Illustration: _Miniature Illustration. Selected from “Building.”_] - -Subscription, $1.00 per Year. Single Copies, 10 cents. - -WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, Publisher, 6 Astor Place, NEW YORK. - -[Illustration: _Miniature Illustration. Selected from “Building.”_] - -BUILDING. - -Regular Edition, $1.00 per Year. - -Special Illustrated Edition, $5.00 per Year. - -WM. T. COMSTOCK, Publisher, 6 Astor Place, N. Y. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Lincrusta-Walton_ - -THE New Indestructible AND Imperishable Decoration FOR WALLS AND -CEILINGS, FURNITURE AND ART OBJECTS. - -_Lincrusta-Walton_] - -[Illustration: WAINSCOTING IN LINCRUSTA-WALTON.] - -The Designs. - -Lincrusta-Walton is the refinement of all previous systems of decoration. -The designs are of a high order of artistic merit, making the material -the most perfect and beautiful of all coverings for Walls and Ceilings. - -The Material - -is water-proof. Durable as the wall. Has many _sanitary advantages_. As -easy to hang as wall paper. - -Cost. - -The price is quite moderate, and its durability renders its use -economical. - -New Buildings - -can be permanently decorated at once, as Lincrusta-Walton is unaffected -by moisture, and excludes damp. Now in general use in Public Buildings -and Private Dwellings, Hotels, Offices, and the homes of the people. Sold -by all Decorators, Furniture, Wall Paper and Art Dealers throughout the -United States. _Send for Descriptive Pamphlet._ - -FR. BECK & CO. Manufacturers of Fine Wall Papers, Corner 29th Street and -7th Avenue, N. Y. - -The only Manufacturers of Lincrusta-Walton in the United States under the -patents. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: H. W. JOHNS’ ASBESTOS LIQUID PAINTS] - -Our liquid paints _are composed exclusively of the best and purest -materials combined on different principles from any other Liquid or Mixed -Paints_. They have been thoroughly tested in nearly all parts of the -world and have been found to withstand the severest tests of climatic -changes, sea air and other trying exposures, where the best white lead -has failed, and the universal testimony of those who have used them is -sufficient proof of our claims that they are in every respect _strictly -reliable and first-class paints of a higher grade_ than have ever before -been offered to the public for structural purposes, either in “paste” -or liquid form, and second to none in richness and permanency of color, -beauty of finish, durability, uniformity, and all characteristics which -are requisite to form a perfect ornamental protective covering. - -_Our paints are sold by U.S. Standard Gallon measure (231 cubic inches); -i.e., our packages contain, from 8 to 12 per cent. more paint than is -usually sold for the same quantity, and they weigh from 10 to 20 per -cent. more to the gallon than any others in the market._ ONE GALLON WILL -COVER FROM 225 TO 250 SQUARE FEET, TWO COATS. - -We manufacture forty-eight shades of “body” and trimming colors, and also -make Standard and Light Greens, Light and Dark Blues, Reds, Black, etc., -samples of which will be supplied on application. - -The finest and most extensive structures in this country are painted -with these paints, among them, the U.S. Capitol at Washington; Light -Houses and Life Saving Stations; U.S. Custom House at Chicago; Navy Yard -Buildings; Metropolitan Elevated R. R; Oriental and Manhattan Beach -Hotels; the “Argyle” and Cottages at Babylon; Hygeia Hotel, Fortress -Monroe; Thousand Islands House; Crossman House; Forest Hill House, -Franconia, N. H.; Sinclair House, Bethlehem, N. H.; Fort Point House, -Stockton, Me.; Pequot House and Cottages, New London, Conn.; Appledore -House, Isle of Shoals; the “Dakota,” New York City, and thousands of -other public and private buildings. - -Our pamphlet on - -“STRUCTURAL DECORATION” - -_Will be sent free by mail on application._ - - * * * * * - -ROOF, CAR AND BRIDGE PAINTS - -These paints possess a more elastic body than any other, and are less -liable to injury. They are prepared ready for use, and have proven to -be the most economical paints ever produced for similar purposes. They -were originally designed for preserving TIN AND OTHER ROOFS, but are now -also used for railroad buildings, bridges, freight cars, steamboat decks, -boats, and all wood and iron work exposed to salt or fresh water, and are -especially adapted for out-buildings, fences, floors, gas holders, and -other iron and rough wood-work. They are supplied in seven colors, viz.: -brown, red, yellow, gray, buff, slate, and cream-white. One gallon will -cover about 400 square feet, one coat. - - * * * * * - -STRICTLY PURE COLORS - -Ground in Refined Oil. - -They are intended to take the place of the ordinary “colors in oil” for -general house decoration. They are ground in refined Calcutta linseed -oil, to a fineness not excelled by the best imported “artists colors.” - - * * * * * - -ASBESTOS BUILDING FELTS - -_For interlining frame buildings, floors, etc. Are wind, dust and -fire-proof._ - - * * * * * - -H. W. Johns Manufacturing Co. 87 MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK. - -SOLE MANUFACTURERS OF - -_H. W. Johns’ Genuine Asbestos Liquid Paints, Roof Paints, Roofing, Steam -Pipe and Boiler Coverings, Fire proof Coatings, Cements, etc._ - -DESCRIPTIVE PRICE LIST AND SAMPLE FREE. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COTTAGES *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for an eBook, except by following -the terms of the trademark license, including paying royalties for use -of the Project Gutenberg trademark. If you do not charge anything for -copies of this eBook, complying with the trademark license is very -easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose such as creation -of derivative works, reports, performances and research. Project -Gutenberg eBooks may be modified and printed and given away--you may -do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks not protected -by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the trademark -license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country other than the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where - you are located before using this eBook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm website -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that: - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the manager of -the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the Foundation as set -forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non-profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, -Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up -to date contact information can be found at the Foundation's website -and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without -widespread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine-readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our website which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This website includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/old/67922-0.zip b/old/67922-0.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 049fc89..0000000 --- a/old/67922-0.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h.zip b/old/67922-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index da23d96..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/67922-h.htm b/old/67922-h/67922-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 1a51927..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/67922-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4722 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> - <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=utf-8" /> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> - <title> - The Project Gutenberg eBook of Cottages, or Hints on Economical Building, by A. W. Brunner. - </title> - - <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> - -<style type="text/css"> - -a { - text-decoration: none; -} - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - -h1,h2 { - text-align: center; - clear: both; -} - -h2.nobreak { - page-break-before: avoid; -} - -hr { - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - clear: both; -} - -hr.tb { - width: 45%; - margin-left: 27.5%; - margin-right: 27.5%; -} - -hr.chap { - width: 65%; - margin-left: 17.5%; - margin-right: 17.5%; -} - -div.chapter { - page-break-before: always; -} - -ul { - list-style-type: none; - text-align: left; -} - -li { - margin-top: .5em; - padding-left: 2em; - text-indent: -2em; -} - -p { - margin-top: 0.5em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: 0.5em; - text-indent: 1em; -} - -p.dropcap { - text-indent: 0em; -} - -p.dropcap:first-letter { - float: left; - margin: 0.1em 0.1em 0em 0em; - font-size: 250%; - line-height: 0.85em; -} - -table { - margin: 1em auto 1em auto; - max-width: 40em; - border-collapse: collapse; -} - -table.plate { - margin: auto auto auto 1em; - max-width: 40em; - border-collapse: collapse; -} - -table.plate td { - padding: 0.25em 0em; -} - -td { - padding-left: 0.25em; - padding-right: 0.25em; - vertical-align: top; -} - -.tdc { - text-align: center; -} - -.tdr { - text-align: right; - vertical-align: bottom; -} - -div.ads { - margin: auto; - max-width: 50em; -} - -.caption { - text-align: center; - font-size: 90%; - text-indent: 0em; -} - -.caption-main { - text-align: center; - margin-top: 2em; - font-size: 120%; - text-indent: 0em; -} - -.center { - text-align: center; - text-indent: 0em; -} - -.figcenter { - margin: auto; - text-align: center; -} - -div.hanging p { - padding-left: 3em; - text-indent: -2em; -} - -.larger { - font-size: 150%; -} - -.noindent { - text-indent: 0em; -} - -.nw { - white-space: nowrap; -} - -.pagenum { - position: absolute; - right: 4%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; - font-style: normal; -} - -.poetry-container { - text-align: center; - margin: 1em; -} - -.poetry { - display: inline-block; - text-align: left; -} - -.poetry .stanza { - margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em; -} - -.poetry .verse { - padding-left: 3em; -} - -.poetry .indent0 { - text-indent: -3em; -} - -.smaller { - font-size: 80%; -} - -.smcap { - font-variant: small-caps; - font-style: normal; -} - -.tb { - margin-top: 2em; -} - -.titlepage { - text-align: center; - margin-top: 3em; - text-indent: 0em; -} - -.titlepage2 { - text-align: center; - margin-top: 1.5em; - text-indent: 0em; - line-height: 150%; -} - -.transnote { - background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - text-align: center; - font-size: smaller; - padding: 0.5em; - margin-bottom: 5em; -} - -.valign { - vertical-align: middle; -} - -.x-ebookmaker img { - max-width: 100%; - width: auto; - height: auto; -} - -.x-ebookmaker .poetry { - display: block; - margin-left: 1.5em; -} - - </style> - </head> -<body> -<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Cottages, by Wm. Paul Gebhart</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Cottages</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em;'>or, Hints on Economical Building</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Wm. Paul Gebhart</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Editor: A. W. Brunner</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: April 25, 2022 [eBook #67922]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Charlene Taylor and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COTTAGES ***</div> - -<div class="transnote"> -<b>Transcriber’s Note:</b> All of the plates are clickable for -a larger version of the image. -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_1"></a>[1]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;" id="frontispiece"> - -<a href="images/frontispiece.jpg"><img src="images/frontispiece-small.jpg" width="500" height="300" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Perspective Sketch of Bungalow (with Attic)</p> - -<p class="caption">(<a href="#plate17">See Plate 17</a>)</p> - -<p class="caption">Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.</p> - -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2"></a>[2]</span></p> - -<p class="titlepage larger">COTTAGES<br /> -<span class="smaller"><span class="smaller">OR</span><br /> -HINTS ON ECONOMICAL BUILDING</span></p> - -<p class="titlepage2 smaller">CONTAINING</p> - -<p class="titlepage2"><span class="smcap">Twenty-Four Plates of Medium and Low Cost Houses,<br /> -Contributed by different New York Architects</span>.</p> - -<p class="titlepage2"><span class="smaller">TOGETHER WITH</span><br /> -DESCRIPTIVE LETTERPRESS,<br /> -<span class="smaller">GIVING</span><br /> -PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS FOR COTTAGE BUILDING.</p> - -<p class="titlepage2"><span class="smaller">COMPILED AND EDITED BY</span><br /> -<span class="smcap">A. W. BRUNNER, Arch’t.</span></p> - -<p class="titlepage smaller">TO WHICH IS ADDED</p> - -<p class="center">A CHAPTER ON</p> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">The Water Supply, Drainage, Sewerage, Heating and<br /> -Ventilation, and other Sanitary Questions<br /> -relating to Country Houses</span>.</p> - -<p class="titlepage2"><span class="smaller">BY</span><br /> -WM. PAUL GERHARD, C. E.</p> - -<p class="titlepage">1884.<br /> -<span class="smcap">New York</span>:<br /> -WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK,<br /> -6 ASTOR PLACE.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3"></a>[3]</span></p> - -<p class="titlepage smaller">COPYRIGHT,<br /> -1884.<br /> -<span class="smcap">William T. Comstock.</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4"></a>[4]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/header-preface.jpg" width="600" height="150" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Preface">Preface</h2> - -</div> - -<p class="dropcap"><span class="smcap">The</span> aim of this little book is simply to offer a -few hints and suggestions to those about to build, -or those interested in building, and to present a series -of designs of low-cost cottages.</p> - -<p>These designs were made, by request, by different -New York architects who have turned their attention -to the subject. In view of the rapid growth of “Art -Ideas,” and the great improvement in taste that has -taken place during the last few years, it is believed -that there is a demand for dwellings reasonable in cost -yet artistic and home-like.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5"></a>[5]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="ARCHITECTS">ARCHITECTS<br /> -<span class="smaller">WHOSE DESIGNS ARE CONTAINED IN THIS BOOK.</span></h2> - -</div> - -<table summary="List of architects and their office addresses"> - <tr> - <td>Mr. WM. A. BATES,</td> - <td class="tdr">149 Broadway, New York.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Mr. CHAS. I. BERG,</td> - <td class="tdr">152 Fifth Avenue, New York.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Mr. A. W. BRUNNER,</td> - <td class="tdr">29 Union Square, New York.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Mr. JAS. D. HUNTER, Jr.,</td> - <td class="tdr">57 Broadway, New York.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Mess. ROSSITER & WRIGHT,</td> - <td class="tdr">149 Broadway, New York.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Mr. THOS. TRYON,</td> - <td class="tdr">152 Fifth Avenue, New York.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Mr. WM. B. TUTHILL,</td> - <td class="tdr">52 Broadway, New York.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Mr. FRANK F. WARD,</td> - <td class="tdr">59 Astor House, New York.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Mr. FRED. B. WHITE,</td> - <td class="tdr">294 Broadway, New York.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6"></a>[6]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_7"></a>[7]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/header-title.jpg" width="600" height="250" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h1>Cottages<br /> -<span class="smcap smaller">Hints on Economical Building</span></h1> - -</div> - -<h2>I.</h2> - -<p class="dropcap"><span class="smcap">During</span> the past few years our conception of what -a country house should be, has entirely changed. -Simplicity, elegance and refinement of design are -demanded, and outward display, overloading with cheap -ornamentation, is no longer in favor.</p> - -<p>Naturally the more expensive houses were the first to get -the benefit of the architectural inspiration drawn largely -from England. But now that English gables and dormers -have spread so widely, now that we realize the beauty of -our own colonial architecture, and that the Queen Anne -craze is subsiding, so that only its best features remain, the -less ambitious dwellings must not be left to the mercy of -those builders whose ideas of beauty are limited to scroll-saw -brackets and French roofs. It is our intention, in -presenting a number of designs for country houses, to show -what can be done with simple means, and to give sketches -of cottages that may meet the wants of many who desire -inexpensive homes which shall be at the same time cosy and -picturesque.</p> - -<p>It must be stated, however, that all we can hope to do in -the compass of this little volume is to give some hints on -building and offer a few suggestions and ideas which may<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8"></a>[8]</span> -be of value to those about to build. It is by no means -claimed that the drawings here given are sufficient for constructing -the houses. Proper working drawings are a -much more serious affair, and should in all cases be prepared -by an architect. This is as important for a cottage as for a -mansion.</p> - -<p>It seems hardly necessary to enlarge upon the importance of -an architect’s services, since that is now generally recognized. -Sensible people, when they are ill, consult a physician and -not an apothecary; and when they wish to plan a house, -they take the advice of an architect and not a builder. Both -apothecary and builder are of course necessary, but they must -be wisely directed or they may be dangerous indeed.</p> - -<p>In this “intensely new world,” as Matthew Arnold calls -it, we have not yet had time to pay much attention to our -simpler kind of dwellings. One can say but little for the -majority of our cottages beyond that they give us shelter -from the sun, rain and wind. The quaint interest, the great -beauty of old European towns, are so marked, that we would -do well to remember that each of the houses in their picturesque -old streets was evidently built to suit the special -tastes and requirements of its owner. At present, the fashion -is set; and, while it lasts, all cottages are built to suit. -The fashion changes and the next batch of cottages must -come up to the new standard. Now, ready-made houses, -like ready-made clothes, <i>may</i> fit, but the conditions of house-planning -are complex and the requirements are many and -varied. The house in which we live should have some individuality, -and not be a mere duplicate of our neighbor’s -dwelling. We do not care to confess that we are exactly -like other people. Of course we are not. We may not -wish to be considered eccentric or “funny,” but we do -flatter ourselves that we have some ideas of our own; so our -home, if it is to be a home, must be planned just to suit our -habits. Regarding the exterior appearance, that, to a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_9"></a>[9]</span> -certain extent at least, will proclaim both the disposition of -the interior and its inmates.</p> - -<p>Now the intelligent client will of course consult a competent -architect, but being intelligent, he and Mrs. Client -will first talk it all over very carefully, and after discussing -the matter thoroughly will decide upon just what they need. -When a decision has been arrived at, they will go to Mr. -Architect and tell him their wants, and he will proceed, to -the best of his ability, to solve the problem. This solution -he presents in the form of plans, elevations and sections, -which is his way of showing how he intends to fulfill the -conditions imposed. But Mr. and Mrs. Client may not find -it such an easy matter to decide upon what they ought to -have. Building a house is generally a new experience, and -many and vexed are the questions that arise. Being a bright, -well-informed couple, with ideas of their own, they wisely -decide to think it out for themselves and not to tell the disciple -of Sir Christopher Wren to make them “something real -pretty—you know what we want—and we’ll call to-morrow -to see the drawings.”</p> - -<p>No, they know better than that. It is for them to say -<i>what</i> they want; and <i>how</i> it is to be done, is the architect’s -province. So, to help the worthy couple in their deliberations, -we will mention some of the points to be considered in -building a country home, only touching upon them, however; -for volumes might be, and indeed have been, written -on the numberless considerations that present themselves. -A little thought and time spent before commencing to build -may avoid a great deal of trouble and regret when it is too -late to effect alterations. Even when the house is in the -course of erection, changes are unduly expensive, as one deviation -from the plans is likely to entail another. The -superficial knowledge people have of their own houses is -often surprising, and it would be well for Mrs. Client to examine -critically her present dwelling, while Mr. C. takes<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10"></a>[10]</span> -a few measurements of some of the rooms. This will bring -their ideas of dimensions to a more definite shape and greatly -aid them to fully understand a set of plans.</p> - -<h2>II.</h2> - -<p class="dropcap"><span class="smcap">The</span> first thing to be decided is where the cottage shall -be placed. For a castle in Spain, any picturesque -spot would do, nor need we choose it until our castle is -quite complete. But for a real house, one that will keep out -the cold and keep in the heat, one that will be comfortable to -live in and presumably beautiful to look at, one that is subject -to many practical as well as artistic conditions, we will -proceed to select the prettiest piece of ground in the healthiest -neighborhood we can find.</p> - -<p>Healthy—of course. Better not build at all than make -our house the abiding-place of malaria. So we will carefully -avoid marshy or ill-drained ground. Sandy or gravelly soil -is good. Clay is bad. A side-hill has many advantages -and affords opportunity for something picturesque. We -need not fear it, for a broad trench dug deep as our cellar, -and running obliquely back of the house, will leave us high -and dry. If we are sensible rather than ambitious, we will -not choose the summit of a hill. Sooner be a little lower -down on the slope, securing shelter from the wind and a -readier water supply. The question of site is an important -one, and much depends on a wise selection. Even a small -lot offers some choice, and a few feet in either direction may -avoid damp cellars and future fevers.</p> - -<p>But if we have a wider choice, let us exercise it well, and -secure a position where we can study nature in her varying -moods and enjoy her beauty. Let us be surrounded by -meadows and flowers and trees. Trees by all means. Not -too near, or we may shut out sunlight and secure dampness -instead; but trees are good neighbors, and we owe them<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11"></a>[11]</span> -grateful shade in summer and shelter from winter storms. -A stately oak and a few graceful maples, or perhaps some -faithful evergreens, will take away the barren and forlorn -appearance a house often presents when standing quite -alone. A little terracing and grading, besides helping to -shed the surface water, often give the building the appearance -of being well and firmly placed.</p> - -<p>Care will of course be taken to see that an abundant -supply of pure water is obtainable; to decide its quality a -few preliminary borings should be made.</p> - -<p>Having roughly chosen the position and driven a stake -in the site, we must decide in which direction our house -shall face. The living rooms should look to the south or -south-east, as they will be cooler in summer, receiving the -southern breezes, and warmer in winter—and always cheerful. -Next to a southern exposure an eastern one is best. -We must consider how the grounds shall be laid out, the -approaches to the house, position of the public road, and -proximity of objectionable neighbors. Our friend Mr. Architect -will want to know all this and more too. He will ask -you from what directions come the prevailing winds, what is -the character of the scenery, and whether there is any choice -of prospect, or our pet view will stand in danger of being -wasted on blank walls, or visible only from the kitchen. -Then, after telling him how much we wish to spend, he will -be in a condition intelligently to go to work and plan the -house. A thorough understanding between architect and -client is most desirable.</p> - -<h2>III.</h2> - -<p class="dropcap"><span class="smcap">“A history</span> of house-planning is the history of civilization, -one of the best means by which we can realize -the social condition and family life of successive -times,” says Stephenson in his interesting book on House<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12"></a>[12]</span> -Architecture. The gradual change in the arrangement of -dwellings indicates most clearly the development of what -we call civilized ideas.</p> - -<p>In all important houses in the Middle Ages, the Hall, -which was frequently an immense apartment, was the chief -feature. To quote Stephenson again, “It was in reality -the house, and hence (in England) country houses are still -called Halls.” The ends were screened off by wooden partitions, -the kitchen at one side, the private apartments at the -other. The Hall was used as a dining-room and sitting-room, -and the household would sleep there, both tables and -beds being movable. Later, the tendency arose to have -separate apartments for different purposes, and the number -of rooms in a house multiplied. In modern planning strict -privacy is essential, and each room must be accessible from -the halls and stairways. As soon as a room becomes a mere -passage to another, it loses its chief value. The arrangement -of a house is, to a certain degree, influenced by considerations -of exterior effect, but use and comfort are of -prime importance. In the so-called “classic” houses, where -symmetry was imperative, convenience of plan was often -sacrificed.</p> - -<p>A well-studied plan is characterized by compactness and -the absence of any visible make-shifts or after-thoughts. -Everything fits well and seems in its natural place.</p> - -<p>A rectangular house is the cheapest and best, the octagonal -and circular forms are better adapted for bays or projections -only. Very irregular and straggling plans may produce -picturesque results, but are sure to be comparatively expensive. -A square house has always been a favorite with many -practical-minded people. It is such a “sensible” shape and -cuts up well into rooms. True, a given length of line, as a -square, encloses a greater area than in any other rectangular -form, so we get the most house for our materials and money. -Still, we will probably find that, after arranging our plan,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13"></a>[13]</span> -considering comfort and convenience alone, it will not -result in a mathematical square; but, if it be compact and -capable of being simply roofed, we need not reproach ourselves -with undue extravagance.</p> - -<p>All space occupied in passages and corridors, increasing -the size but not the capacity of the building, is wasted.</p> - -<p>Light and air are, we know, essentials of life. Let us not -forget it in planning our house. Dark passages and stairways -should not be tolerated.</p> - -<p>In our cities, where land is very expensive, and the houses -which often cover nearly the entire building lot are crowded -closely together, many expedients have to be adopted to -render the inner rooms habitable. Light-shafts are used, and -rooms often receive only borrowed light by means of glass -doors or partitions. In country houses these methods are -inexcusable. Fresh air and the light of day should have -access to every nook and corner.</p> - -<h2>IV.</h2> - -<p class="dropcap"><span class="smcap">In</span> our modern houses the hall is generally a mere narrow -passage connecting the rooms, and only large enough -to contain the staircase. Lately there has been a tendency -to give the hall greater prominence; and, as many of -the plans in this book show, it may be made a most desirable -sitting-room, by adding a few feet to what before was almost -waste space. It may have an open fire-place and some little -nook arranged with a seat. The stairs may be partly or -wholly screened, a treatment giving opportunities for a -picturesque effect. Let us have plenty of light on our staircase, -and plan it so that even at night one is not liable to -stumble. “Winders,” that is to say, steps which radiate at -the corners, are to be avoided as much as possible, for it is -easy to slip on the narrow end. Do not try to have your -stairs in a single run. Platforms, which should be square,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14"></a>[14]</span> -form a convenient rest. For ordinary stairs the risers may -be 7½ inches, and treads 10 inches. If the risers are less, the -treads must be proportionally greater. The old rule of a -6 inch riser and 12 inch tread is almost too luxurious, and -when the risers are less than 6 inches they become actually -uncomfortable and tiresome. If newels are used, as they are in -the better class of work, have the tops rounded, and let there -be no sharp angles that would be disagreeable to the touch.</p> - -<p>The dining-room should have an eastern or north-eastern -exposure, so that it may receive the cheerful rays of the -morning sun. A western outlook is undesirable, for at sunset -the “western waves of ebbing day” will flood the -apartment, making it necessary to close the shutters, excluding -the air and leaving the room in darkness. 11 feet in -width is sufficient to admit of chairs on both sides of the -table, with space for a servant to pass around, but a larger -room is desirable.</p> - -<p>The kitchen should be near the dining-room. It may be -in the basement, and if the house is on a side hill this is a -good arrangement, as the kitchen may then be entirely -above ground. In some of the Southern States it is the -custom to separate the kitchen entirely from the house, -thereby avoiding all the smell and heat of cooking. It is a -good plan for summer cottages to have the kitchen in a -wing by itself, even if not disconnected with the rest of the -house. In a small house, where the dining-room and kitchen -must be placed next to each other, a pantry with doors not -opposite each other, between the rooms, will do much to -intercept odors and noises.</p> - -<p>A sitting-room or living-room should be bright and cheerful. -Let it have the benefit of any good view that the -situation of the house may command. Give it broad, -generous windows, admitting plenty of light and sunshine. -Sunshine may not be good for the carpets, but you are not -building the house for them, and the health and cheerfulness<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_15"></a>[15]</span> -of the inmates are the first consideration. If carpets will -fade we may use matting, which is now obtainable in good -designs and excellent colors. Or let us have good honest -wood floors oiled or waxed, for they need not be very -expensive. Then with a pretty rug, perhaps, in the middle -of the room, we secure greater cleanliness than is possible -with a carpet, and need not be afraid of the light of day, two -points which should help to decrease our doctors’ bills. In -providing for light it is better to have one large window -than two small ones. A broad casement with a window-seat, -or a three-sided or semi-circular bay, with room for a few -flowers, or perhaps a small work-table and chairs, will be a -delightful feature.</p> - -<p>In the pride of our heart we may want a parlor, or drawing-room, -as our English cousins would call it.</p> - -<p>Well, let us have it if we must, for hospitality is a virtue -to be cherished. But true hospitality consists in giving our -friends what we deem to be our best. Now a parlor that is -kept for state occasions and is such a prim, formal room, that -everything in it is too awfully nice to touch, is not a place -where true friendship is likely to flourish. If we need another -apartment for our guests, let it merely be an extension of our -sitting-room. The room we occupy most will be the -pleasantest in the house, as we will naturally surround ourselves -with the objects we love best. But the spirit of -cheerfulness and cosiness should pervade the entire house, -and the selection we make of books, pictures and ornaments, -will do much towards giving a room a friendly or unfriendly -aspect.</p> - -<p>In a large country-house a separate room for a library is -convenient, also a breakfast or morning-room, and a billiard-room, -is a luxury to be enjoyed, if possible. If we can manage -it, a nursery, where the children can make a noise and have -a real good time without shocking anybody’s nerves, will be -found a great comfort. Give the little ones space, where they<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_16"></a>[16]</span> -can romp to their hearts’ content, a large, sunny room, with -broad windows and a big fire-place, a room with nothing in -it that will spoil by contact with little hands, and you will -contribute much to their happiness.</p> - -<p>If we can contrive a little retreat or “den” in some out-of-the-way -corner of the house, it may be well, for, although -man is a social animal, “solitude sometimes is best society.”</p> - -<p>Many of us will appreciate a little sanctum entered by -one door only, where we can leave our books and papers, -having the sweet satisfaction that they will remain undisturbed.</p> - -<p>The bed-rooms should be specially light, airy and well -ventilated. Space must be left for the bed, a consideration -which, if overlooked in the plan, may make it necessary to -put the bed in front of a window or against a closet door.</p> - -<p>The arrangement of doors and windows requires particular -attention, and a little care in regard to this will contribute -much to comfort. A certain amount of wall-surface should -always be left, or there will be no place to put the furniture—a -fault often found in our houses, and productive of much -discomfort. Every bed-room should have a closet, and, -indeed, an abundance of closets is necessary, it being hardly -possible to have too many of them. One for coats, in the -front hall, one for linen, one for stores, and a good-sized -pantry for the kitchen, are dear to the heart of a housekeeper.</p> - -<p>No house should be without a bath-room, large and conveniently -located. Care must be taken that the plumbing -apparatus is not exposed to the cold, or the pipes will freeze -in winter. The matter of ventilation and construction of -the plumbing work, is ably discussed in a separate article -devoted to that and other sanitary questions.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17"></a>[17]</span></p> - -<h2>V.</h2> - -<p class="dropcap"><span class="smcap">Doors</span> are generally hung according to the sweet will -of the carpenter, but there are two ways to hang a -door, one so as to expose the room, the other so as to -screen it. The first may be good for the more public rooms, -but, in regard to bed-rooms, the doors must swing so that, -when partly open, they will shield the apartment from view. -Closet doors should be hung so that the closet may receive -light from the nearest window. Doors are sometimes made -to swing out on stair landings or halls, and who has not -seen two doors so placed that they strike each other when -opened? It is hardly necessary to say that these methods -should not be adopted.</p> - -<p>The question of how to heat a house is discussed at length -elsewhere, but from the point of beauty, cheerfulness and -comfort, we must enter a plea for the open fire-place. It -may be troublesome to keep clean, although this may be -obviated by an ash-shoot to the cellar. We admit that the -open fire-place is wasteful, as two-thirds of the heat goes up -the chimney. And then most of the foul air in the room -goes with it, and we have the best and surest ventilating -flue yet devised. But the cheerful appearance, the crackling -of the logs, the sparkling embers, the ruddy flames twisting -themselves into fantastic shapes—are these worth nothing to -us? Contrast a roaring fire of hickory logs, blazing on a -broad brick hearth, with the dismal hole in the floor or wall -covered with a cast-iron register. The cricket on the hearth -is a little out of fashion now, and with it has gone the sense -of comfort that the broad, picturesque chimney-piece always -gave. Open fire-places alone are often insufficient in our -climate, and furnaces are extremely useful for heating the -halls and the house generally; but to rely on their heat -entirely excludes one of the features which make home -more home-like. The fire-place should be in a position so -as to admit of a group sitting around it; it should not stand<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18"></a>[18]</span> -between two doors, for instance. A little nook or seat may -be contrived next to it, making a cosy corner in the room. -Chimney-stacks can be combined if the house be judiciously -planned, and a saving of expense effected. The plans in -Plates VI, X and XVII, show how one stack can serve three -rooms on the same floor with fire-places, and in the case of -the double houses all the designs show that this method of -saving expense has been adopted. Chimneys must be carefully -built of good, hard brick, laid in cement mortar, the -flues straight and smooth and of uniform size. To allow of -better arrangement in the upper floors, the flues may be -safely drawn on one side to at least 30° from the perpendicular. -There must always be at least 8 inches of brick -work when the chimney-stack comes in contact with any -wood-work.</p> - -<p>Every house should have a cellar with stone or brick walls -and cement floors. And it is of the utmost importance that -the cellar be dry. To insure this, the greatest care should be -given to the <i>outside</i> finish of the walls—reversing the usual -practice of carefully finishing the interior, and on the exterior -allowing the rough edges of stone to project and form little -courses and channels through which the moisture will pass. -In case the cellar extends only under part of the house, the -rest of the walls should be supported upon brick piers, only -filled in between with wooden lattice, giving free access to -the air, thus preventing dampness and rotting of timbers.</p> - -<p>If the reader desires to study construction, or intends to -superintend the building of his own house, he cannot do -better than consult Mr. T. M. Clark’s book on “Building -Superintendence.” The standard of workmanship that it -gives may be a little too high for cheap work, otherwise it is -an extremely useful volume.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19"></a>[19]</span></p> - -<h2>VI.</h2> - -<p class="dropcap"><span class="smcap">Planning</span> has been called a series of compromises, -and in fact we will nearly always find it impossible to -secure all we desire. Something must be sacrificed, -and the best plan is the one that fulfills the most important -requirements at the expense of the minor ones. After securing -the proper relative arrangement of rooms, their exposure -may be wrong, or the chimneys will not combine. We -secure an economical combination of chimneys and find that -the doors come “all wrong,” and the staircase is crowded to -one side. Then the shape of the rooms is ugly, the veranda -seems only possible in front of the kitchen, the entrance -porch faces the north, and there is no way of getting to the -cellar.</p> - -<p>These little difficulties overcome, we find that we cannot -get up-stairs, and even if we could, the rooms in the upper -floors come just as we do not want them, and the hall will -be dark. Then we will begin all over again. The amateur -must not be disheartened if this is the result of his first -attempt to plan a house. The best and seemingly most -simple arrangement of rooms is generally the result of the -most study.</p> - -<p>In planning, as in many other things, the simplest is often -the best, and what appears so satisfactory and looks as if it -were quite the most obvious thing to do, was probably -arrived at only after much consideration and thought.</p> - -<p>Irregularities in our plan may be turned to account and -picturesque and useful features result, but they must come -naturally and not be forced, or they will give the appearance -of striving to be eccentric.</p> - -<p>It is a comparatively easy matter to plan a house which -is intended exclusively for summer or for winter occupancy. -But in those sections of the country where we have successively -samples of every conceivable kind of weather, and we<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20"></a>[20]</span> -wish to build a permanent residence, the difficulties are -numerous.</p> - -<p>During part of the year we need broad verandas, large -windows and doors so arranged that we can get a current of -air through the rooms. The heat from the kitchen distresses -us, and the refrigerator is regarded with more affection than -the fireplace. In a few months the veranda only serves to -shut out the precious sunlight, and double sashes for the -windows may be desirable to keep out the cold too easily admitted -by the doors. We draw close to the hearth, piled -high with blazing logs, and rejoice that the slight heat from -the kitchen chimney is not wasted on the outer air.</p> - -<p>Fortunately, what keeps out the heat keeps out the cold—or -rather keeps in the heat—and walls constructed so as to -keep the house warm in winter will keep it cool in summer.</p> - -<p>The veranda is a particularly American feature, and -should be encouraged, not only because it is American, but -because it is a great comfort and a sensible contrivance. -Let it be broad and low, to keep out the sun’s rays; let it be -large enough for plenty of chairs and a work table, and perhaps -a rattan sofa or a hammock, and during the long summer -months it will be a most delightful retreat.</p> - -<p>Even in winter the veranda serves to keep the wind, -sleet and snow from our windows, and so contributes a little -warmth if it does rob us of some sunlight. It can be so constructed -that it may be enclosed in winter, but it is difficult -to heat, even if the cellar extended beneath it.</p> - -<h2>VII.</h2> - -<p class="dropcap"><span class="smcap">Materials</span> of all kinds have been used for building, -but for our purpose only stone, brick and wood are -suitable, and mud, papier-maché, glass, iron, and -many others need not be considered. Stone is the favorite for -all monumental buildings, but it may be occasionally used to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21"></a>[21]</span> -advantage in low-cost country houses. If it must be brought -from a distance, and is to be cut, tooled and dressed, it will -be much beyond the average cottager’s means. But when -found in the immediate vicinity and laid in irregular courses -“just as it comes,” with the corners squared off only enough -to make good joints, we shall get excellent effects without -great expense. It is well to use it only for the first story of -the house, as shown on Plate <a href="#plate12">XII</a>. If cut stone lintels and -jambs are too costly, we may use brick, either red or buff, -selecting the one which harmonizes best with the color of -the stone. The doors and windows in this case will be -arched and not square-headed. Stone walls need not be very -thick—18 inches will be ample—and they need not be damp -if properly furred, leaving an airspace.</p> - -<p>Frequently use large stones, the entire thickness of the -wall, as “binders,” and leave the natural surface as much as -possible. Then, if the stones are well selected, we shall have -a beautiful surface, whose color, softened by that of mosses -and lichens, and partly covered by the creeping ivy, will become -more beautiful and mellow with age.</p> - -<p>Brick is a most valuable building material, wonderfully -durable, as the remains of the old Roman buildings testify, -and fire-proof, as often demonstrated. To the minds of -many, brick suggests all the ugliness of the immense crop of -buildings that has sprung up in our American cities—buildings -with wondrous painted and sanded cornices and -window caps, with a front pierced with regularly spaced -square-headed openings. But the builder and not the -material is at fault, for as countless European examples -show us, brick can be used with most excellent effect. -Bricks are now made in many shapes, and good mouldings -can be obtained for cornices, belt courses, etc.</p> - -<p>Then terra-cotta, which is nothing more than its name implies, -baked earth, or brick in other forms, comes to our aid, -and we have ornamental panels, columns, pilasters, voussoirs<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22"></a>[22]</span> -and all sorts of architectural finery. For small cottages -we may use brick laid in red mortar, combining it -with wood, and perhaps some of the simpler mouldings, with -a terra-cotta panel or two, to give character to the design.</p> - -<p>Wood is the material that will commend itself, as being -the cheapest for building country houses, needing only a light -foundation and being easily handled. The old “half timbered” -houses give us suggestions for a most picturesque -treatment. In these buildings the frame is exposed and filled -in with brick or stucco, producing an excellent effect. In the -north of France, where rain is abundant, the exposed wood -is sometimes covered with slate. This method of construction -is adapted to our climate, but brick is better for filling -in than plaster or stucco, which is likely to be affected by our -severe frosts. Clapboards and shingles are both excellent. -The shingles may be cut in different shapes, or irregularly -laid, giving a variety of surface. Tiles, which are more durable -but more expensive, may be substituted. Battened -houses, that is, houses faced with vertical boards, the joints of -which are covered by narrow strips of wood or “battens,” -are not recommended.</p> - -<h2>VIII.</h2> - -<p class="dropcap"><span class="smcap">The first</span> four plates in this book show designs for the -simplest kind of cottages. Strict economy has been -observed, and the arrangement is as compact as possible, -no space being wasted. The first has two rooms -on a floor—the living-room containing the stairs. The -roof is unbroken, overhanging enough to cover the bay, -and merely extending to form the porch. Plates <a href="#plate2">II</a>, -<a href="#plate3">III</a> and <a href="#plate4">IV</a> show a separate hall for the stairs, and -closets and pantry are provided. In one case the upper -floor contains two large rooms, in the others, four -smaller chambers. Plate <a href="#plate3">III</a> shows the kitchen and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23"></a>[23]</span> -living-room separated by a pantry with two doors, and in -the next design, communication between these rooms is had -through the hall, an arrangement quite suitable for such a -small house. Nothing could be plainer, or more straight-forward, -than the plans and exterior treatment of these four -cottages, and the result is interesting in showing that even -the simplest house may be planned with some reference to -comfort, and a pleasing exterior expression attained without -the least ornamentation.</p> - -<p>Plates <a href="#plate5">V</a>, <a href="#plate6">VI</a> and <a href="#plate7">VII</a>, give designs for slightly larger -cottages, with three rooms on the first floor. The roofs are -boldly treated, and in Plate <a href="#plate5">V</a> we see the picturesque effect -obtained by an exterior chimney. This design also shows -an effective treatment of windows in the sitting-room, and a -broad low veranda covered by a continuation of the main -roof. Designs <a href="#plate6">VI</a> and <a href="#plate7">VII</a> are two six-room cottages very -compactly planned; the exteriors show clapboards on the -first-story, and shingles above.</p> - -<p>Plate <a href="#plate8">VIII</a> gives a cottage without a kitchen (there is -space for it if desired), which may be built in connection -with a hotel. This is becoming a favorite way of living during -the summer, the inmates of the cottage taking their -meals at the hotel, and thus much of the trouble of housekeeping -is avoided. Several of the plans in this book could -be used in a similar way; the space for kitchen devoted to -other uses or omitted entirely. In this plan the two rooms -on the first floor open into each other, making practically -one large airy apartment, which, with the shady veranda in -front, is an arrangement well adapted for warm weather.</p> - -<p>In Plate <a href="#plate9">IX</a> we have a small seven-room house. The sitting-room -has a large fire-place with seats at the side, screened -by an arch or transom, and making a pleasant little nook.</p> - -<p>Plate <a href="#plate10">X</a> is a design of a picturesque cottage which shows -in plan a nearly square hall with a fire-place, opening into a -broad piazza. At a little extra expense the small bed-room<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24"></a>[24]</span> -on the second floor could be made wider, or a bath-room -added to advantage.</p> - -<p>The plan of Plate <a href="#plate11">XI</a> provides an entrance hall or vestibule, -which will be of special use if the house is occupied in -winter. The side door opens into the end of the main hall, -and the arrangement of rooms is well studied. The overhanging -gables have a bold effect, and the materials used are -the same as in nearly all the preceding designs.</p> - -<p>Plate <a href="#plate12">XII</a> gives plans and elevations for a house, the first -story of which is to be built of stone—the second of wood. -The stone is irregularly laid, the rough surface contrasting -well with the shingles above. The plan provides for six -good-sized rooms with plenty of closets.</p> - -<p>In Plate <a href="#plate13">XIII</a> we have a house planned so that the two -main rooms on each floor are exposed on three sides, an -arrangement which, if the size and shape of the lot permits, -is good for a summer residence. The treatment of exterior -also indicates this use.</p> - -<p>Plate <a href="#plate14">XIV</a> gives a design for a seven-room cottage, with -a wide hall and a bath-room. The kitchen is conveniently -placed, both in regard to the dining-room and front door. -The balcony in the second story adds to the exterior effect -by giving more shadow to the front.</p> - -<p>Plate <a href="#plate15">XV</a> is a design for a sea-side cottage. The hall is so -arranged that the stairs are screened, thus making a little -vestibule. The dining-room and parlor are only divided by -an arch, and may be separated by a portière or thrown into -one large room, while the veranda gives the shade so desirable -at the sea-shore.</p> - -<p>Plate <a href="#plate16">XVI</a> shows a picturesque house broadly treated. -The second story overhangs the first, covering the piazza. -The rooms are large and of good proportion, and each bed-room -has its closet.</p> - -<p>Bungalows, as the one-story houses used in India are -called, seem adapted to some parts of America, particularly -as summer cottages.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25"></a>[25]</span></p> - -<p>Plate <a href="#plate17">XVII</a> and the <a href="#frontispiece">frontispiece</a> show a house which will -commend itself to those who dislike going up and down -stairs. This plan provides a hall, dining-room and kitchen, -each with its fire-place and closet, and three bed-rooms. -The door of the bath-room and that of the bed-room opposite -are misplaced, and should open into the corridor. -There is a small stairway to the attic, where there is space -for dormitories, if desired. The construction of this sort of -house is so simple, and the foundation may be so light, that -it will cost but a trifle more than if the rooms were -arranged in the ordinary way. The bungalow here given is -very simply treated, the roof being only broken for the outlook -from the attic, and extending to cover the veranda.</p> - -<p>Plate <a href="#plate18">XVIII</a> shows a house suitable for an ordinary “fifty-foot -suburban lot.” The entrance hall is divided by an arch -and book-cases, making an agreeable sitting-room or library. -The second story contains three bed-rooms and a bath-room. -There are accommodations in the attic for servants.</p> - -<p>Plate <a href="#plate19">XIX</a> is a design for a cottage on a side hill, with the -kitchen in the basement. The projection of the stairs in the -main hall gives place for a seat opposite the fire-place, and -may be made a cosy little corner. The dining-room, hall -and sitting-room, open into each other.</p> - -<p>The last four Plates are designs for double or “semi-detached” -houses. If, instead of building single houses, -two persons will combine, adopting some arrangement such -as these designs show, they will effect a considerable saving -of expense. The houses, although receiving light and air -only on three sides, are bright and comfortable. Privacy is -not destroyed, as the entrance porches are separated, and -windows placed so as to avoid looking from one house to -the other.</p> - -<p>The exterior treatment in Designs <a href="#plate20">XX</a> and <a href="#plate21">XXI</a> seems to -indicate more clearly than the others that they are double -houses, while Nos. <a href="#plate23">XXII</a> and <a href="#plate23">XXIII</a>, though not concealing<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26"></a>[26]</span> -this fact, have more the air of large single houses. This is -a nice question of “expression” which our readers may -decide for themselves.</p> - -<p>These drawings show different architects’ conceptions of -what small and medium-sized cottages should be. They -differ greatly from each other, both in plan and exterior design, -but the general expression seems to be much the same. -They are not pretentious, and no ornament exists for its own -sake. Chimneys and roofs are boldly and frankly treated, -and a certain breadth and hospitality are expressed by nearly -all. Only a few of their special features have been mentioned, -a fuller description being deemed unnecessary.</p> - -<h2>IX.</h2> - -<p class="dropcap"><span class="smcap">It will</span> be noticed in all these designs that whatever -grace or charm they may have is the result of the simplest -treatment. A building should be logically designed, -and the exterior be the natural expression of the plan. This -is what is meant by Truth in Architecture. But just how -much need be expressed, is not always clear. A proper regard -for our architectural morals does not require us to -exhibit to the passer-by every detail of construction and -arrangement. Only what <i>is</i> shown must be <i>true</i>. A building -ought at least to declare its purpose, which should be -recognizable at a glance. But a house may well express -more than the fact that it is a house. It may have a pretentious -and showy appearance, or be modest and unassuming. -It may look cheerful and hospitable, or cold and forbidding.</p> - -<p>Now, for a cottage to be pretentious is in bad taste. It -need not be so humble as to nestle among the violets, but it -can assert itself sufficiently without being decked with -tawdry ornaments, or the vanity of cupola or towers.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27"></a>[27]</span></p> - -<p>On the other hand, it would be equally false for a large mansion -which should have an air of dignity and magnificence to -attempt to assume a simple, rustic appearance. Indeed, -Southey informs us that the devil’s “favorite sin is the pride -that apes humility.” Proportion—that is, the relation of -parts to each other and to the whole, is the most important -element of beauty in architecture. This has been the subject -of much discussion and controversy. The parts of a -building having a certain mathematical relation to each -other, numerous attempts have been made to formulate -this and establish reliable rules for the guidance of the designer. -All the theories, however, are conflicting; notwithstanding -that most of them are proved by their authors to -apply directly to the Parthenon, which</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Earth proudly wears...</div> - <div class="verse indent0">As the best gem in her zone.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>It seems that the sense of proportion, like an eye for color -or an ear for music, is an innate quality possessed by some -and lacked by others; and that it is as impossible to design -a building as to make a musical composition by mathematical -rules.</p> - -<p>Beauty alone is not sufficient to constitute architectural -excellence. Architecture is the art of building, and utility -is the first consideration. If the architect be an artist, -endowed with an appreciation of form and color, he -will so combine the materials at his command that he -will produce a building at once useful and beautiful. -Exterior ornament should be sparingly used on cottages, -and, if at all, should be so employed as to emphasize -the design. But it seems more sensible in an economical -dwelling to keep the exterior quite simple. While we -should not inflict our neighbors with an ugly house, we will -not be open to the charge of selfishness if we choose the -extravagance of a daintily carved oak mantel in our sitting-room -to that of ornamented brackets and posts on the -veranda.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28"></a>[28]</span></p> - -<h2>X.</h2> - -<p class="dropcap"><span class="smcap">In these</span> designs for cottages it will be observed that -there has been no attempt made to adhere to any historical -style. And this, we believe, shows a greater -appreciation of the beauties of architectural styles than if -they had been misapplied and tortured into what once was -known as “Rural Gothic” or “Italian.”</p> - -<p>After defining architecture to be “the material expression -of the wants, faculties, and the sentiments of the age in -which it is created,” Owen Jones, in his “Grammar of Ornament,” -said that “Style in architecture is the peculiar -form that expression takes under the influence of climate and -the material at hand.” Accepting this definition, we see the -absurdity of copying buildings erected under totally different -conditions from ours. Although an Italian villa is more -adaptable to our wants than a Greek temple (and our -country-houses have often copied both with lamentable -results) it does not readily submit to be Americanized. -Italy may give us suggestions, and France, England and -Germany offer us many and valuable ones, but in adapting -them to our country houses we must show discrimination. -And our own wants and sentiments, if well and naturally -expressed, take forms that are not displeasing, even if -Corinthian columns and Gothic arches are absent.</p> - -<p>The question of color is an important one, as an unfortunate -selection may spoil the (otherwise) prettiest house. -We have discovered that considerations of cleanliness do -not require us to paint our houses white, which, even with -the addition of green shutters, is hardly satisfactory. The -staring, conspicuous effect of these white houses is what we -should avoid, and the tints we choose must be those that will -blend harmoniously with the surrounding landscape. The -pearly gray that shingles become after exposure to the -atmosphere has a very good effect if relieved by contrast with -some other color. A good treatment is to give the house a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29"></a>[29]</span> -coat of crude petroleum, and, if desired, a transparent stain -may be mixed with it which will show the grain of the -wood. A range of soft yellows, reds and browns, may be so -obtained. Messrs. Rossiter and Wright have published a -book entitled “Modern House Painting,” which gives excellent -directions and examples.</p> - -<h2>XI.</h2> - -<p class="dropcap"><span class="smcap">If we</span> strive to give to the exterior of our houses a -pleasing appearance, how much more reason is there to -beautify the interior.</p> - -<p>It has been claimed that pretty and comfortable homes -exert a decided moral influence. Be this as it may, we are -all interested in making our homes attractive. And there is -no reason why they should not be so. We are apt to think -that costly things must be beautiful, but this is by no means -true, nor is it true that inexpensive objects must be ugly. -The same materials used in the construction and decoration -of an ugly apartment might, with the exercise of a little taste, -be so employed that a graceful combination result.</p> - -<p>Low ceilings give an air of comfort, while very high -ones have a cold and barren effect, and increase the cost of -the house.</p> - -<p>The ventilation of a room should be quite independent of -the height of its ceiling, that is to say, a room with a low -ceiling may be well ventilated, and one with a high ceiling -may gain nothing by the extra height but greater facilities -for retaining poisonous gases and foul air. Gwilt gives as a -rule that the height of the ceiling of a rectangular room -should be the same as the width of the room; but since the -apartments on a floor are of unequal size and the ceiling -commonly of the same height throughout, no such proportion -can be kept. Nor is it necessary for a small cottage. -From 9 to 10 feet is ample for the first story rooms.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30"></a>[30]</span></p> - -<p>The proportion of a room may be modified by the treatment -of its walls. Vertical lines give an appearance of -greater height, and horizontal lines make a room look lower. -Accordingly, the division of a wall into horizontal bands by -means of the dado and frieze, now in such favor, has a tendency -to make a room look lower than it really is. This -division, however, is a good one. The dado is simply a -substitute of a cheaper material for a paneled wainscot of -wood. The wooden base board and chair-rail should be -retained, as they serve to protect the wall. A broad frieze -is an excellent decorative feature. It should be separated -from the wall surface by a picture-moulding from which -the pictures will hang.</p> - -<p>The excavations at Pompeii have shown many beautiful -examples of harmonious wall decoration. The walls are -divided by dado and frieze, the dado being generally darker -and the frieze lighter, than the intermediate surface. We -will do well to follow this arrangement even if we do not -adopt the Pompeian colors.</p> - -<p>If the plaster is finished with a rough surface (sand finish) -it takes color well, and makes a satisfactory wall. Within -the last few years, wall-papers have been manufactured -which are good in design and low in cost. Many of them, -printed in two tones of the same color, are delicate, and -make good backgrounds for pictures. Being delicate and -quiet does not necessarily mean that the paper must be gray -and colorless. It may have a decided color, and still harmonize -well with the pictures and other objects in the room.</p> - -<p>Dark red matting used for a dado gives a most satisfactory -effect. It may be continuous or divided in panels by -narrow strips of wood.</p> - -<p>Cartridge or ingrain-paper is now made in excellent colors, -and is a good substitute for printed wall-papers. To break -the flat surface a stencil pattern may be traced on it, or this -may be done directly on the plaster, which must first be -colored.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31"></a>[31]</span></p> - -<p>A good ceiling is made of simple felting-paper in lieu of -plaster; the paper divided into small panels by narrow -beaded strips of wood.</p> - -<p>Lincrusta-Walton is a valuable material for some choice -bit of decoration.</p> - -<p>For door and window trims and other interior woodwork, -white pine is recommended, as it is the cheapest, and, -if properly finished, looks very well.</p> - -<p>It may be stained, if too light—the transparent stains -merely darken the wood and do not conceal the natural -grain. Under no circumstances try to imitate oak or walnut -by graining. Such shams deceive no one and are in the -worst taste. If we use paint for interior work let us use -it frankly, carefully selecting the color, and avoiding a shiny -surface, a flatted or dull finish being preferable.</p> - -<p>We have a great variety of wood to choose from, if not -limited in expense, but “hard woods,” such as cherry, oak, -mahogany, etc., not only are expensive in themselves, but -require more labor. Ash is the cheapest of them. If -some of the patent “fillers” are used, an excellent surface -may be given to the wood, but these require to be finished -with shellac, and carefully rubbed down. For cheap work, -two coats of boiled oil may be used; or, if a polished surface -is desired, varnish may be substituted.</p> - -<p>Our fire-places may be of brick laid in red mortar, with -wooden shelves, and perhaps lightly framed with wood. -Tiles are appropriate for facings and hearth, as they are not -affected by the heat. Let our windows be large and extend -well up to the ceiling. Have window-seats if we can, and -dispense with interior doors as much as possible. A curtain -of some soft material (it need not be expensive) will look better -than a six-panel door, and it may be pushed to one side, -while the door is irrepressible. Let us make our hall a -bright, cheerful apartment, that may aid us to “welcome the -coming, speed the parting, guest.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_32"></a>[32]</span></p> - -<h2>XII.</h2> - -<p class="dropcap"><span class="smcap">The</span> cost of building depends so largely upon varying -circumstances that it is impossible to give precise -estimates without exact information upon such points -as the amount of excavation needed, facilities for obtaining -stone for foundation, etc. Then the prices of labor and materials -vary greatly in different localities, so the figures here -given can only be approximately correct. Cottage No. I -could be built as shown on plan, for $500. A cellar under it -would make it cost about $100 more. Cottages Nos. II, III -and IV would cost from $600 to $1000. Those shown in -plates VI, VII, IX, X, and others of similar character and size -may be estimated to cost from $2.50 to $3.00 per square ft. -That is to say, if, as in Fig. IX, the extreme exterior dimensions -are 21 ft. by 29 ft., the house covers 609 square ft., -and would cost from $1522 to $1827. Cottage No. XIV -could be built for from $3000 to $3500.</p> - -<p>These prices are given as guides, and may serve the -reader as a standard to follow. If plain interior finish is -adopted, these figures may be relied upon for ordinary -cases. Some sites, however, present unexpected difficulties, -and some localities are peculiarly favored. Then the style -of interior finish adopted affects the cost greatly, and the -expense may be easily doubled by the use of elaborate -cabinet work.</p> - -<p>A brick house of the same capacity as a wooden one, will -cost nearly 20 per cent. more. Rubble stone, if easily -obtained, costs about as much as brick.</p> - -<p>In building double houses, we may save from 10 to 15 -per cent. on the cost of the houses singly.</p> - -<p>Good materials and workmanship are always the cheapest -in the end, and it is by no means advisable to economize -too closely on that score. There can be no comfort in a -house that constantly needs repairs; and the money spent -in building a home, carefully and substantially constructed, -will never be regretted.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33"></a>[33]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/header-sanitary.jpg" width="600" height="200" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Sanitary_Questions"><span class="smcap">Sanitary Questions</span></h2> - -<p class="center larger"><i>By WM. PAUL GERHARD, C. E.</i></p> - -</div> - -<p class="dropcap"><span class="smcap">In</span> selecting a site, a loose, porous <b>soil</b> is, for obvious -reasons, preferable to ground liable to be damp or wet. -Pure, dry sand, and gravel, make excellent sites for building -purposes. Next to these, rocky soils may be chosen, and -are usually quite healthy. Clay soils, which are more or less -impervious to water, and therefore always damp and chilly, -and alluvial lands, must not be chosen as a site for dwellings. -But, above all, avoid <i>made</i> land. Although this refers more -particularly to city lots, it is not uncommon, even in the -suburbs of large cities, to find low ground filled with garbage, -rubbish, and decaying vegetable and animal debris, which -are prime causes of impure air in dwellings. Ground which -has not before been built upon is, undoubtedly, preferable -to sites of old, torn-down buildings. If the latter must be -taken, a detailed and thorough examination should be made -with respect to the purity of the soil. Some lots are literally -honey-combed with cesspools, privy-holes, or have a net-work -of broken drains full of accumulated filth, and the soil is at -times found to be contaminated from liquid house refuse, or -by soakage from barn-yards, stables, etc. A well should -never be sunk through such formerly occupied ground. It -is quite important to ascertain by preliminary borings, the -level of the ground water, for a high water level means continuous -dampness, and must be abated by thorough under-drainage.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34"></a>[34]</span></p> - -<p>By <b>underdrainage</b> of a site, we effect a permanent -lowering of the ground water, and thus secure to the proposed -dwelling, dry foundation walls, and absence of dampness -from the house interior. To remove such subsoil water, -small porous, round tile-drains, 1¼ inches in diameter, should -be laid with open joints at least two feet below the level of -the cellar floor. The general arrangement of the lines may -vary somewhat in each case, but ordinarily the branch drains -can be laid in parallel lines, their distance varying from ten -to twenty-five feet, according to the amount of water to be -removed. Wherever springs are found, special lines may -be required. The trenches should be refilled with broken -stones or coarse gravel. All branch pipes should be collected -in one main pipe, for which a 2 inch tile pipe will answer in -most cases. This main drain should be continued with -proper fall to a ditch, ravine or water course. There must -never be any connection between such subsoil drains and any -foul-water drain, sewer, or with a cesspool or sewage tank.</p> - -<p>If the dwelling stands on a hill-side, exposed to subsoil -water flowing over an impervious stratum, the foundation -walls of the house nearest to the hill are very apt to be wet, -often even so much as to have the subsoil water percolate -through the cellar walls. In this case, the subterranean -water vein should be cut off by a blind drain, <i>i.e.</i> a trench -dug above the house sufficiently deep and carried with -proper fall diagonally across the lot. The trench to be filled -with broken stones and to be carried down the hill to some -outlet, either an open ditch or a brook.</p> - -<p>Some attention should be paid to the proper <i>removal of -surface water</i>. In the case of suburban cottages the rain -falling upon the roof is almost always collected and stored -for use in underground cisterns. Occasionally a public -water supply is available, the cistern is omitted, and the roof -water is allowed to run away on the surface, and partly soak -into the ground, thereby tending to keep the foundation walls<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35"></a>[35]</span> -damp and unhealthy. To avoid this evil, the grounds -surrounding the house must be properly graded, in order -to shed the water off from the walls. At a good distance -from the house the surface water may sometimes be -permitted to soak away into the ground, the vegetation helping -to absorb a part of it. In other cases, however, surface -channels or gutters must be arranged, especially with clay -soils.</p> - -<p>Besides water, the upper layers of the soil always contain -<b>ground air</b>, which has a tendency to rise into the dwelling, -especially in winter when our heated dwellings act as huge -chimneys, drawing up large quantities of air from the ground -beneath them. Such exhalations, which consist in the case -of a pure soil of carbonic acid and watery vapor, and which -in the case of a contaminated soil are largely mixed with -gases of decomposing organic matter, should be rigidly -excluded from the interior of houses. For this reason, dwellings -without a cellar should never be placed immediately -on the ground, but must be raised on piers, arches or posts -sufficiently to allow of a large air space and perfect circulation -between the surface and the floor beams. This will, at -the same time, prevent the quick rotting of the joists and -floor-boards. To prevent the rapid cooling of the basement -floor this should be laid double with an intermediate space, -filled with a non-conducting material, such as mineral wool.</p> - -<p>It is more expensive, but always preferable, to excavate for -a <b>cellar</b> and to build the house on strong, well made foundation -walls. The floor of the cellar must be made perfectly -tight against ground water and ground air. There are different -ways of doing this. One of the best methods is the following: -cover the surface of the cellar, which has previously -been levelled, with a layer of concrete, at least four inches, -better six inches deep. Next put on a thin layer (about -¼ inch) of hot, pure asphaltum, and on top of this a finish -of Portland cement.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_36"></a>[36]</span></p> - -<p>The cellar walls must always be made impervious to dampness. -As usually built, they are extremely porous, and -moisture rises in them by contact with the adjoining ground -and by capillary attraction. The best plan to prevent -<b>dampness of walls</b> is to have a complete cut-off between the -foundation walls and the ground, by an open area, carried -completely round the building, and well drained and ventilated. -This, however, is expensive, and a similar isolation -may be accomplished by building double or hollow walls, the -space between inner and outer walls being well aired. The -foundation walls should be placed upon a bed of concrete, -and must be covered on their outside with a layer of asphaltum -to a point somewhat above the level of the ground. -It is very important to provide, at this height in the wall, a -horizontal isolating or damp proof course, which may consist -of a thick layer of asphaltum, or of slate, bedded in cement, -or of layers of tarred roofing paper, or else of hollow -tiles. The sill and the floor joists must, of course, be kept -above the damp proof course. The surface water may be -kept away from the outer walls by filling the space next to -the wall, to a depth well below the foundation walls, with -broken stones or gravel. Sometimes a tile drain is placed -below the foot course to carry off any accumulation of percolating -storm water. This trench may be covered at the -top with a stone slab to shed off surface water.</p> - -<p>Most so-called “practical” builders will probably sneer at -these suggestions. I can assure those of my readers who -care to build a <i>healthy</i> home, that the money paid for such -preventive measures will be spent for an excellent purpose. -The proper construction of healthy foundation walls, and of -a cellar, dry and cheerful at all times, is the basis of sanitation -in cottage-building. This much accomplished, all remaining -requirements are not so difficult to fulfill.</p> - -<p>Next to dryness, the most desirable features of a good -cellar are, that it is well lighted and perfectly ventilated.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37"></a>[37]</span> -Good light in a cellar helps much toward its being kept in a -proper condition. As regards the necessity of cellar ventilation, -remember that your floors will necessarily have -some crevices or shrinkage holes, and through these the -cellar air will rise and mingle with the atmosphere of -your living and sleeping rooms. Above all other things, -do not allow your cellar to be made a sort of gigantic poke-hole -for rags, cast-off clothing, old shoes, tin-cans, rotten -vegetables, garbage, swill or other offensive matters. See -that it is kept at all times free from rats and vermin. Do not -tolerate any opening in the cellar floor for the removal of -surplus water into foul water drains. Such opening, even if -trapped, will be sure to act at times as an inlet for unwelcome -sewer air.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="dropcap"><span class="smcap">The</span> <b>water supply</b> of cottages is derived either from -wells, cisterns or springs. Rarely do we find in the -case of scattered houses a public supply, delivering -water under pressure.</p> - -<p>A common sight in the country is a <b>well</b> located close to -or adjoining a leaching cesspool or a privy. Such wells are -usually sunk to but a limited depth, and the liquid sewage -from cesspools soaks through the porous subsoil down to -the subterranean water stratum. The danger to health from -drinking impure water is now universally acknowledged. -Polluted well water is rendered more dangerous by the fact -that it often has a bright, sparkling and clear appearance and -has, in summer time, a low temperature, making it particularly -agreeable to drink. Nothing but a chemical analysis -or the microscope reveals its unwholesome condition. It is -extremely difficult to fix a limit of minimum distance between -a well and a cesspool, or privy, as so many different factors -have to be taken into consideration. In rocky ground, especially, -there may exist hidden fissures carrying the contents<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38"></a>[38]</span> -of cesspools a much greater distance than is generally -expected.</p> - -<p>If there is no leaching cesspool, no privy, nor other cause -of soil contamination, in the neighborhood, a well may safely -be used. If cesspools must be kept on or near your, or the -neighbor’s, lot, or if the ground has previously been saturated -with filth, do not sink a well.</p> - -<p>A properly built well should have walls made tight and -impervious from the level of the ground-water up to the surface, -in order to prevent any filtration from the soil surrounding -the well. The surface of the ground should be raised -somewhat at the well, and graded so as to pitch in all directions -away from the well. This will prevent the entrance of -surface-washings. The opening of the well must be <i>thoroughly -well covered</i>, in order to prevent the falling into the -well of vermin and smaller animals, or the washing in of -decaying vegetable or organic matter. The following mode -of building a well has many advantages over the ordinary -way: Excavate down to the water-level, then arch the well -over with stones, and place the suction-pipe into the well. -Next refill with loose stones, on top of these place coarse -gravel, sand, and finally clean earth. Carry the pipe above -ground to the suction-pump. A thus built well is very safe -against introduction of foreign matter.</p> - -<p>The best wells are probably what are called “driven -wells” or “Abyssinian” wells. They are constructed as -follows: A wrought-iron tube, 1½ to 2 inches diameter, -having at its end a steel point perforated with numerous -holes, is driven into the ground, which must, of course, be -free from stones or boulders, until the ground water is -reached. If necessary, several lengths of tubing are screwed -together by means of couplings. The upper end of the tube -is attached to the pump, and continued suction will soon -wash away the sand at the lower end of the pipe, and furnish -a stream of clear water.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_39"></a>[39]</span></p> - -<p>Wherever a well cannot be sunk, cottages should be supplied -with rain water collected from the roof and stored -either in tanks placed in the garret, or else in underground -<b>cisterns</b>. The latter keep the temperature of the water -moderately low throughout the year. Most people, unaccustomed -to drink rain water, object to it on account of its -flat taste, but if it is carefully collected, properly stored, -boiled before use, filtered, cooled with ice and well aerated, -it makes an exceedingly wholesome and agreeable drink.</p> - -<p>To determine the amount of rain water available from a -certain roof, ascertain the amount of surface of its horizontal -projection, and multiply this by the annual rainfall in feet -and decimals of a foot. The total amount in cubic feet must -be divided by two, to allow for unavoidable loss through -evaporation and for wasted, impure roof washings. It is easy -to arrive at a proper size for the cistern, if the available -amount of water is known.</p> - -<p>In collecting roof water, it is important to allow the first -washings from the roof, which always contain more or less -filth in the shape of dust, horse dung from the street, excrements -of birds, leaves from trees, etc., to run off on the surface. -This may readily be accomplished by cut-offs on the -rain water pipes, to be worked by hand or arranged to act -automatically. The best roofing surface for collecting rain -water is slate, and next to this shingles. Underground cisterns -are usually built circular in shape, of hard-burnt brick, -laid in hydraulic cement. The walls of the cistern must be -made perfectly watertight, not only to prevent leakage from -it to the outside, but also to prevent the entrance into it of -ground water. If an overflow pipe is provided, it should -under no circumstances whatever communicate with any -drain or sewer, or discharge into a cesspool. As soon as -delivered into the cistern, the water must be kept scrupulously -clean, and any possible source of pollution should -be removed. It is a good plan to build into the cistern<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40"></a>[40]</span> -a filtering chamber to remove the coarser impurities in -the water. Cisterns should be frequently inspected, emptied -and cleaned; the opening at the top must be closed by a solid -cover, to prevent the falling in of vermin, mice, rats, etc., -and to guard against contamination by surface-washings.</p> - -<p>Occasionally a dwelling-house is supplied from a distant -<b>spring</b>, by a gravitation supply in case the spring is near a -hill-top, or by means of a hydraulic ram if the spring is -situated at a lower level than the house.</p> - -<p>If the dwelling draws its supply from a well or a cistern, -the water is usually lifted by means of suction-pumps, generally -located, for convenience’s sake, inside the house, at the -kitchen sink. If the cottage has any plumbing fixtures on -the upper floor, it becomes necessary to force water by a -lift and force-pump to a small reservoir or tank under the -roof, from which it is distributed to the fixtures under a constant -head of pressure. Such <b>water tanks</b> should be made -of cast iron well painted, or of wrought iron well protected -against rust. Slate tanks are also very good. Cheaper than -either of these are wooden tanks. Wooden tanks are often -lined with tinned copper; lead, zinc or galvanized iron linings -are undesirable. Care must be taken not to run the -overflow of a tank into any soil or drain pipe. The simplest -way of disposing of it is to run it into the gutter of the roof. -If this is not feasible run it down to the kitchen sink, and -make it serve as a tell-tale for use with the force-pump at the -kitchen sink.</p> - -<p><b>Pipes for conveying water</b> to the plumbing fixtures may -be of drawn lead, or tin-lined lead, or of block tin. Wrought -iron is used extensively, either plain or galvanized or enamelled; -rubber-coated, glass-lined and tin-lined wrought-iron -pipes are also made, but are too expensive for ordinary use.</p> - -<p>Drawn lead pipe is a material possessing many merits, and -hence it is used extensively. It should be remembered, however, -that soft water attacks lead, and a sufficient amount of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41"></a>[41]</span> -lead is occasionally dissolved to cause dangerous poisoning -of persons drinking water from such pipes. It is a good precaution -in the case of new pipes to allow the water to run for -a while, especially if it has been standing in the pipes over -night. Tin-lined pipes, although more expensive, are much -safer for use, but great care must be taken in making joints -in such pipe, lest the tin be removed at the joints. Tin-lined -as well as block tin pipes should always be used as suction-pipes -in wells and cisterns in preference to ordinary lead -pipes.</p> - -<p>Plain wrought-iron pipes rust quickly, especially if not -constantly kept full of water; water conveyed through them -is apt to make iron stains in the washing. A further disadvantage -is the frequent choking up of the smaller sizes -through rust. Pipes coated with some kind of enamel are -better and safer, provided care is taken in making the joints -properly. Plain wrought-iron pipes, made rustless by the -Bower-Barff process, have lately been used and promise to -show good results. Wrought-iron pipes are largely used, -protected with a coating of zinc, and such “galvanized” -pipes may be safely used, for, although water dissolves and -is often found to contain salts of zinc, which are poisonous in -large amounts, dilution makes them practically harmless. A -more serious objection to galvanized pipes may be the fact -that the zinc coating, unless applied with great care, soon -wears off and ceases to protect the pipe against rust. Copper -tubes, lined with tin, are occasionally used, but are expensive -and troublesome to put up. In some of the Eastern -States drawn seamless brass tubes are used for hot-water -pipes. Their only advantage over lead would seem to -be their neater appearance and less liability to sag, although -changes of temperature affect brass pipes by expansion and -contraction, causing leaky joints. Brass pipes, if used for -drinking-water, should be tinned on the inside.</p> - -<p>It is important to arrange all water-pipes so that they can<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_42"></a>[42]</span> -be completely drained or emptied, when the supply is shut -off. Pipes running on outside walls should be suitably protected -against frost. It is recommended, even in the case of -the smallest buildings, to have a plan, showing the exact -size, material and location of all water pipes, stop-cocks, -faucets, cisterns, etc. All pipes should be kept accessible, -and, wherever possible, in sight.</p> - -<p>The supply for drinking purposes is often purified by -means of <b>domestic filtration</b>. This is especially desirable -with cistern water. Domestic filters should act not only as -strainers by removing suspended impurities, but they ought -also to act chemically by oxidizing a part or all of the dissolved -organic matter. Various materials are used for domestic -filters, amongst them being sand, sponge, flannel, -cotton, animal charcoal and spongy iron. Nothing is more -erroneous than the supposition that a filter, once started, will -continue to act, without further attention, forever. Whatever -the filtering material may be, it should be frequently -cleaned and aerated, and renewed from time to time. It -must, therefore, always be easily accessible. Most small -filters, to be screwed to faucets on the supply pipe, are made -reversible, and if this operation is regularly performed, they -work quite well, although their action is of necessity largely -mechanical. Larger filters are connected by means of a -hose or a pipe with the pressure supply, and these, too, answer -well, provided they have an arrangement for periodical -reversing of the direction of the filtering current. Other -filters are portable vessels to be filled by hand. Filters are -also placed in cisterns, or at the end of the suction pipe in -wells or cisterns. A good plan is to build into the cistern -a partition wall, establishing a small chamber, in which -the suction pipe is placed. The dividing wall is built -with courses of brick, some of which, being laid dry, act as -strainers. This arrangement, it need hardly be said, wants -periodical cleaning as much as any of the household filters.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43"></a>[43]</span></p> - -<p class="dropcap"><span class="smcap">A serious</span> and all-important matter is the question of -<b>removal and disposal of the household wastes</b>. -We will assume, as is the case in ninety-nine out of -every hundred isolated country dwellings, that there are no -sewers in the streets, and that a discharge into a large creek -or stream, or into the sea, is not feasible.</p> - -<p>The common practice is to build a <i>leaching</i> <b>cesspool</b>, if the -soil is at all porous. All the liquid wastes from the household -are carried by a drain to this cesspool, and allowed to -soak away into the soil, while the cesspool, and the spaces -between its wall-stones, are gradually filling up with the more -solid matter, the grease, etc., which undergo a slow process -of decomposition, creating a noxious and disagreeable accumulation -of gases. The cesspool is usually unventilated, -and the only exit for gases is through the drain pipe, up the -house pipes, and through defective joints and equally defective -traps into the house.</p> - -<p>Occasionally two cesspools are used, one for the kitchen -sink waste, the other for soil and bath-room waste water. -The conditions of these cesspools after some use will not differ -materially from each other, and such an arrangement is, -if anything, more of a nuisance than the one first-mentioned.</p> - -<p>The smaller the house lot, the greater is the danger from -a cesspool. No leaching cesspool should ever be placed -nearer to a dwelling than one hundred feet. To locate such -a cesspool close to the well, or even a cistern, is a practice -which should be forbidden by law.</p> - -<p>A cesspool or sewage tank, if required, should be built -<i>thoroughly tight</i>, tighter even, if this were possible, than a -cistern. It should be of moderate dimensions, preferably -circular in shape, built with hard-burnt brick, laid in hydraulic -cement, and the tank must be well rendered inside -and outside with pure Portland cement. The tank should be -arched over and covered with an iron cover. It must be -emptied, cleaned and disinfected at frequent intervals, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44"></a>[44]</span> -it should be at all times well ventilated, by a pipe, carried up -to a good height above ground. If possible, the cesspool -should not be located in a direction from the house of the -prevailing winds.</p> - -<p>The liquid contents of a sewage-tank may with advantage -be used to sprinkle and irrigate a lawn, or a kitchen -garden, or shrubbery, or a vine trellis, while the solids, removed -at <i>frequent</i> intervals, may be dug as fertilizers into the -ground. If this arrangement is adopted I usually advise -having two chambers in the cesspool; the smaller one for -retaining the solids, the larger one to receive the liquid -wastes. The overflow delivering the latter from the retaining -or settling chamber for solids, into the liquid-tank, must -dip well below the water-line, so as to avoid carrying scum -with the water. The liquid manure may be pumped by a -small pump, set over the top of the liquid cesspool chamber.</p> - -<p>The question is to some extent simplified if the cottage -contains no water-closets. The liquid manure will be easier -removed and taken care of. The usual and much to be condemned -substitute for a water-closet is a <b>privy</b>, located close -to or at a distance from the house. It rivals with the leaching -cesspool in nastiness and danger to health. It pollutes the -soil, taints the water in the well and contaminates the air of -the neighborhood. A privy must always receive unqualified -condemnation. There are cheap and cleanly substitutes for it, -such as the various apparatus known as <b>earth or ash closets</b>. -While I should hesitate to recommend placing an earth-closet -inside a cottage, except for the use of invalids, it -is very easy to arrange it so as to be quite near the rear -part of the house, accessible from it by a not too conspicuous, -well covered, shady, dry and sheltered walk.</p> - -<p>The shed, in which the earth-closet is placed, should be -well-built, strong and tight, and preferably plastered, so as -not to be too cold in winter storms, but also sufficiently ventilated. -A simple earth-closet is illustrated in the writer’s<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45"></a>[45]</span> -book, “Hints on the Drainage and Sewerage of Dwellings.” -More expensive closets, with mechanical apparatus for -throwing a fixed quantity of earth after use, are sold and -generally give satisfaction if used intelligently, although -plain earth-closets answer well in the case of inexpensive -cottages.</p> - -<p>With cottages, provided with earth-closets, the earth-manure -can be advantageously used in the kitchen garden, -or else it may be disposed of to neighboring farmers. The -disposal of slop water (kitchen and chamber slops) may be -effected where there are grounds about the house, sloping -somewhat away from it, by <b>sub-surface irrigation</b>, consisting -in placing a series of common 2-inch drain tiles in parallel -lines, about 10 inches below the surface of the ground, -and distributing the sewage water intermittently through -such a network of pipes into the ground, where it is acted -upon by the vegetation and purified by the earth, acting as a -filter. The details of this system, which answers better than -any other known method of disposal for isolated country -dwellings, are given in the author’s book, quoted before. -This system is also practical when water-closets are used -inside the house, but in this case, the solids should be intercepted -in a small receiving reservoir, which must be frequently -cleaned, otherwise the distributing tiles will speedily -choke, and create a nuisance by ceasing to work.</p> - -<p>Cottages or suburban dwellings of moderate cost should -have as few <b>plumbing fixtures</b> as possible, especially if -water is scarce, and must be pumped to a distributing tank -by hand labor. Where there is a system of service pipes, -tanks and fixtures, there will be more or less outlay for annual -repairs, besides the frequent annoyance of apparatus -getting out of order, or refusing to work, or freezing up and -bursting. It is certainly much cheaper to have a properly -managed earth-closet and to confine the plumbing in the -house to a kitchen sink, a force-pump, a tank and a kitchen<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46"></a>[46]</span> -boiler. Certain advantages, however, of an indoor water-closet, -as regards comfort, convenience and health, must be -conceded. A bath-room with a plain bath-tub is also a great -convenience and an important aid to bodily cleanliness. It -pays well to arrange for it, even where one must forego the -luxury of a good water-closet. If means are not available -for a system of hot and cold water pipes, the bath tub may -be filled by pails. A small slop sink or slop hopper for removing -chamber slops is also useful and facilitates the work -of servants. Both sink and tub may be arranged in one -room, which should have plenty of ventilation and direct -light by large windows to the outer air. Even the smallest -cottage must have a plain kitchen sink. Where the kitchen is -large, a set of laundry tubs may be arranged close by the -sink; in larger dwellings a special room is generally set aside -for laundry purposes, next to the kitchen, or below the kitchen, -in the basement, and hot water from the kitchen boiler -is generally available. If a <b>bath-room</b> is wanted, -with a water-closet and a bath-tub, and all necessary -amount of hot and cold water pipes, waste and vent pipes, -let the arrangement be as plain and as open—which does not -necessarily mean unsightly—as possible. Keep all pipes outside -of walls or partitions, have them where you can constantly -see them and lay your hands on any stopcock or -other plumbing detail, if necessary. Dispense with woodwork -as much as possible. Arrange every fixture, especially -the sink and the water-closet, open to inspection and accessible -to the dust-brush and wiping cloth of the servants. It -is important—for the sake of economy as well as on account -of plain and straight arrangement of pipes—that the bath-room -should be as nearly as possible directly over the -kitchen, so that one waste pipe and one line of vent pipe -may answer for both. A little skill and foresight in planning -will usually accomplish this desirable feature.</p> - -<p>Let the kitchen sink be of plain cast-iron, the laundry tubs<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47"></a>[47]</span> -of wood, or better, of slate; the bath-tub of wood, lined with -14 oz. copper, and select a good earthen-ware flushing rim -hopper with supply-cistern. Of course, there is more expensive, -more durable and handsomer plumbing apparatus sold, -but the above fixtures, if well set, answer all practical requirements -of a small home. The water-closet should be arranged -with so little woodwork as only a seat resting on cleats; the -closet itself standing on all sides free on the floor. This may -be finished in hard wood or covered with oil-cloth, or -with slate slabs. A closet thus arranged answers well for -pouring out chamber slops and for use as a urinal. For -further details on plumbing fixtures see the author’s books on -the subject.</p> - -<p>Here are a few approved rules on <b>house sewerage</b>, so far -as they relate to plain cottages.</p> - -<p>The main house sewer outside the building to be of strong -well-burnt, and glazed vitrified pipe, circular in section, -four inches in diameter, laid in straight lines, or with curves -of large radius at changes of direction. Joints to be made -with pure Portland cement. It is important that no cement -remains on the inside of the joint. The bottom part of each -pipe should be tightened with particular care. The drain to -be firmly laid at the bottom of the trench, if necessary, on a -bed of concrete. Grooves should be cut for the pipe-sockets. -The depth of the drain should be about 3 feet. Junctions to -be made with Y branches. Inclination to be, if possible, -½ inch to the foot. Wherever grades are very flat provide -some simple and inexpensive flushing apparatus at the head -of the house sewer.</p> - -<p>All the pipes inside the house to be thoroughly gas and -water-tight, and well flushed and ventilated. The house -sewer inside the dwelling, to a point five feet outside of the -house walls, to be of heavy iron pipe; of cast iron, if kept -below the floor; of wrought iron or cast iron, if run along -the cellar wall or ceiling. Provide a sufficient number of -access-holes for inspection and for removing stoppages.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48"></a>[48]</span></p> - -<p>The soil pipe or waste pipe to be of heavy tarred cast iron -with well caulked lead joints, or of asphalted wrought iron -with steam-tight screw-joints. Pipes to run as straight -as possible from the cellar to the roof, and to be continued full-size -at least two feet above the roof. Mouth to be left wide -open. Size of soil pipe 4 inches; of waste pipe 2 inches.</p> - -<p>Provide a running trap on line of main house sewer, inside -or outside of the house. Arrange a 4-inch fresh air pipe, at -the house side of such trap, run preferably some distance -away from the house and hidden from sight by shrubbery.</p> - -<p>Branch waste pipes from fixtures to be of heavy lead pipe, -1½ inches diameter. Joints between lead and iron pipe to -be made with brass ferrules or brass screw nipples.</p> - -<p>Each fixture to be separately trapped near its outlet by a -self-cleansing and secure trap. Overflow pipes to be dispensed -with as much as possible; if used to join the waste pipe -between the fixture and the trap. Traps to be either the -siphon (S or running traps), in which case siphonage should -be prevented by an air pipe, or else to be anti-siphoning or -mechanical or mercury-seal traps.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="dropcap"><span class="smcap">The</span> question of how to <b>warm</b> our cottage will depend, in -the first place, upon the climate and locality of the proposed -dwelling, and furthermore upon its exposure. -Three methods of warming the air of halls and rooms must -be considered, namely, warming by open fire-places, by stoves -and by hot-air furnaces. Direct and indirect heating by -steam and by hot-water apparatus are excluded on account -of their cost for buildings, such as here shown.</p> - -<p>Ordinary <b>fire-places</b> warm principally by radiation, the -heat from the fire being imparted to surrounding objects or -persons without much warming the surrounding air. The -degree of heat varies with the square of the distance from the -grate, and it thus happens that with a fire-place as the only<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49"></a>[49]</span> -means of heating a room of an exposed dwelling, a person -near the fire may be nearly roasted, while at the opposite -extreme end of the room the temperature may be almost -down to the freezing point. A further disadvantage is the -fact that it heats only the part of the body facing the fire. -The greatest objection to the ordinary open grate fire lies -in the fact that 85 per cent. and more of the fuel is wasted, -the heat from it going straight up the chimney flue. A fire-place -generally causes extremely cold drafts from window -cracks, or from door spaces, especially in very cold weather. -On the other hand, if such cracks are all carefully closed and -stopped up, the chimney is apt to smoke. While, therefore, -an open fire-place may be adequate in warm climates, it is -entirely inadequate to warm, <i>per se</i>, cottages in our eastern, -northern, and northwestern States.</p> - -<p>To say that a very large waste of fuel is incident to warming -by fire-places, is not strictly correct, for the heat is not -actually <i>wasted</i>. It forms a good aid to the ventilation of -rooms, and we will see later that, as an accessory of other -heating methods, the fire-place is eminently serviceable, and -much to be recommended. Better, however, than ordinary fire-places, -are the improved, so-called <b>ventilating fire-places</b>, -which are provided with a large air chamber, and a sufficient -air supply from outdoors. There are several excellent devices -of this kind in the market, and these are, of course, -much more economical as far as burning fuel is concerned, -about 35 per cent. of the heat being utilized. They make -splendid ventilators, and are generally superior and free -from defects.</p> - -<p>In this country <b>stoves</b> of cast iron and of wrought iron -are the usual and most economical means of heating small -cottages and suburban dwellings. It is also, unfortunately, -true that, as ordinarily arranged, they make the worst possible -devices for warming the air of our rooms. Heating -should always be combined with ventilation, that is, there<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50"></a>[50]</span> -should be a continuous removal of the fouled air and introduction -of plenty of pure air instead, but arranged so as not -to cause inconvenient or unhealthy drafts. A room warmed -by an air-tight stove must soon contain air entirely unfit to -breathe, for a close stove removes practically none of the vitiated -air, and there is usually an entire absence of any provision -for introducing fresh air. Less fuel is consumed, and -stove-heating is consequently economical, at least apparently -so, while in reality it causes loss of strength, vigor and -appetite, and general debility and extreme sensitiveness.</p> - -<p>If a dwelling is to be heated by stoves, the following precautions -must be observed. Select a good-sized, well-built -stove, with tight joints, and lined on the inside with fire-brick -to prevent the iron from getting red hot and to retain, -as much as possible, the heat. A supply of fresh pure air -from the outside must be arranged, carried to a jacket surrounding -the stove, where the air is warmed by contact with -the stove, and circulated in the room. The smoke pipe of -the stove should be large, and must never have a damper to -shut off the draft. A valve may be placed on the fresh-air -inlet pipe to regulate the amount of ventilation at will. -For the removal of foul air outlets must be arranged, near -the ceiling of the room, and into the chimney, care being -taken to prevent down-drafts or entrance of smoke, by -arranging a self-closing flap valve at the outlet. It is much -preferable, however, to have an extracting or ventilating -flue, arranged in the chimney adjoining the smoke flue and -warmed by the latter, with outlets from the room into such -flue. The stove should have ample capacity to heat the -room even in very cold weather without driving the fire to -a red heat. It is a good plan to supply a moderate amount -of moisture to the air by placing a water kettle or evaporating -pan on the stove.</p> - -<p>Heating suburban dwellings by <b>hot-air furnaces</b> has -many advantages over stove heating. Furnace heating is,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51"></a>[51]</span> -strictly speaking, stove heating, but with this difference, -that there is only one large stove, centrally located in the -basement or cellar, from which air pipes of sufficient size -carry the warmed air into the rooms as desired. There is, -consequently, less labor in carrying coal and making fires, -less trouble in keeping up the fire, and less dirt and dust -from removing ashes.</p> - -<p>Furnace heating is disliked and has often been condemned -by many as detrimental to health, and while such is true of improperly -arranged furnace apparatus, it is, nevertheless, a -mode of heating which can be made perfectly healthy and -agreeable. It is impossible to heat a room well by furnace heat, -unless arrangements are made, by an open fire-place or other -outlet into a chimney flue, for withdrawal of the air once -breathed and fouled by respiration. You cannot introduce -pure, warmed air, unless you remove a like amount of fouled -air. Another mistake, frequently made, is to take the air supply -to the furnace air-chamber directly from the cellar. Thus, -cellar air, ground air, or air from sewer pipes, is often sent -up in a heated condition into the living and sleeping rooms.</p> - -<p>If warming by a hot-air furnace is decided upon, care -should be taken to select from the innumerable patterns in -the market a good furnace. The furnace should be of the best -quality of material of its kind—either cast iron, wrought iron -or soap-stone,—and of a good size, for if the furnace is small, -it will be overheated in extremely cold weather, which is -very objectionable, as it renders the air less fit for breathing, -and is liable to cause cracks in cast-iron, and loose joints in -wrought-iron furnaces. The furnace must be well constructed, -the pot must be lined with fire-brick to prevent the -rapid burning out of the iron, the joints must be few in -number and perfectly tight, and this must be made the -subject of a special examination. The furnace should have -one or two large cold air-ducts, leading to the outside of the -house, located on opposite sides of the house if there are two.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52"></a>[52]</span> -These air-ducts should take their supply preferably five or -more feet above the surface of the ground. A slide-valve -must be arranged in the cold-air box, to regulate the amount -of incoming air, and where there is danger from impurities -in the air, the air supply should be filtered through a loose -cotton filter. At the mouth of the air box place a wire-netting -to prevent rats or other animals from entering. The box -should be constructed of well-dried, wooden plank, with -closely fitted joints. Better, although more expensive, is a -galvanized sheet iron air-duct. It is advisable to carry the -cold-air box along the ceiling of the cellar, where it is in -sight, and not below the ground, where it may and often is -filled with ground water or pools of sewage from broken -cellar drains. The size of the fresh-air inlet should be -equal in area to the aggregate sum of all hot-air flues, leading -from the air chamber into rooms. The fresh air should -be kept tolerably moist by arranging an evaporating pan -kept constantly full of water in the air chamber of the -furnace.</p> - -<p>The furnace must be arranged as centrally as possible, so -as to make the horizontal hot-air flues short, for in these the -velocity of the air current is reduced by friction, especially -if the flues are small. The hot-air flues should, preferably, -be kept on inside walls, and must be as direct as possible, -and of ample capacity. The inlets or registers, for admitting -warm air into the room, should not be in the floor, for it is -unhealthy to stand over them, moreover they form receptacles -of dirt and dust, and are unsightly in the floor. The -inlets should be placed in a side wall. To avoid danger from -charring woodwork no hot-air flues should come in direct -contact with floor-joists, boards or partitions; all woodwork -should be securely protected by some non-conducting -material. The smoke-pipe must be large and run to a good-sized -smooth flue, so as to insure a good steady draft, which -will remove all gases of combustion. There should be no<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53"></a>[53]</span> -damper on the smoke pipe, and the fire should be regulated -only by more or less admission of air under the fire grate. -Overheating of the furnace must be avoided, for it unduly -dries the air, and scorches the organic matter in the air -coming in contact with the fire, thus causing a peculiar, -disagreeable smell.</p> - -<p>An open fire-place in the hall and all principal rooms -makes, in connection with hot-air heating, the most comfortable -and pleasant arrangement for withdrawing fouled air -from the room. With the air of the room introduced at a -warm temperature, the radiant heat from the fire-place is -particularly invigorating and comforting. We all love to -gather around a cheerful, glowing fire on the hearth of a -cosy home, and exchange pleasant thoughts or dream away -twilight hours in looking at the flickering light.</p> - -<p>If fire-places are not available for ventilation, outlets must -be provided into warm, ventilating flues, arranged parallel -to smoke-flues in chimneys. Chimney flues should preferably -not be built against outside walls, for they are not apt -to draw well in such position, unless a special air space is -arranged in the rear of the flue to prevent its too rapid cooling. -Ventilating flues must be without sharp angles, smooth on -the inside and preferably round in section. If they remove -the air from a number of rooms, their cross-section must be -proportionately increased. Bedrooms should never be heated -by base burner stoves, but should have a fire-place acting -at all times as an efficient foul-air flue. Halls must -be moderately heated to avoid cold drafts through door-cracks, -and to insure a more uniform heat throughout the -dwelling. Bathrooms and kitchens must be ventilated with -special care.</p> - -<p><b>Ventilation</b> or change of air in dwellings must go on at -all seasons of the year. It aims at removing the vitiated air -in a dwelling and introducing a sufficient amount of pure air, -moderately heated in winter time, supplied with a proper<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54"></a>[54]</span> -amount of moisture, and thoroughly and uniformly diffusing -it in the house interior in gentle currents, without causing -undue drafts. Drafts are dangerous to health, because they -rob the human body too suddenly of a part of its heat. In -summer-time ventilation is happily and easily accomplished by -opening doors or windows, and by occasional “air-flushing” by -creating cross-currents through rooms. Fire-places should -not be covered up in summer by fire-boards. In winter-time -ventilation should always be combined with heating.</p> - -<p>In the spring or fall of the year we often content ourselves -with a small wood or coal fire on the hearth, and in such a -case the easiest way to provide for incoming fresh air is by -admitting air through the windows, directing the cold -current to rise up to the ceiling. This may be done by -lowering the upper sash and raising the lower one slightly, -not enough to leave openings at top and bottom. A better -way is, of course, to have a ventilating open fire-place, such -as the “fire-on-the-hearth” stove, or other apparatus.</p> - -<p>The so-called spontaneous or accidental ventilation -by air penetrating walls cannot, practically, establish a -sufficient change of air. Its effect is very much reduced by -papering, painting, plastering on the inside, and by treating -the outside walls by some water-proof process, as is frequently -done, as a protection against driving rains.</p> - -<p>For details on ventilation, amount of cubic space in rooms, -amount of air-supply required, proper position of inlets and -outlets, and other questions, we refer to larger hand-books -on ventilation.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> -<img src="images/footer.jpg" width="400" height="175" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55"></a>[55]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/header-plates.jpg" width="600" height="225" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Plates"><span class="smcap">Plates.</span></h2> - -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56"></a>[56]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate1"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate I</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate1.jpg"><img src="images/plate1-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Perspective Sketch.</p> - -<p class="caption">Rossiter and Wright Architects.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate2"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate II</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate2.jpg"><img src="images/plate2-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Sketch for Cottage.</p> - -<p class="caption">Wm. A. Bates. Architect. 149 Broadway, New York.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate3"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate III</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate3.jpg"><img src="images/plate3-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Perspective Sketch.</p> - -<p class="caption">Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate4"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate IV</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate4.jpg"><img src="images/plate4-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Sketch for Cottage.</p> - -<p class="caption">Wm. A. Bates. Architect. 149 Broadway, New York.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate5"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate V</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate5.jpg"><img src="images/plate5-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Perspective.</p> - -<p class="caption">Thos. Tryon. Architect. New York.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate6"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate VI</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate6.jpg"><img src="images/plate6-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Perspective Sketch.</p> - -<p class="caption">Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate7"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate VII</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate7.jpg"><img src="images/plate7-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Suburban Cottage.</p> - -<p class="caption">Frank F. Ward. Architect. 59 Astor House, N.Y.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate8"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate VIII</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate8.jpg"><img src="images/plate8-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Sketch. Design for Cottage-Rooms in connection with a Summer Hotel.</p> - -<p class="caption">Fredk. B. White. Architect. 294 Broadway, New York.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate9"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate IX</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate9.jpg"><img src="images/plate9-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Sketch for Cottage.</p> - -<p class="caption">Wm. A. Bates. Architect. 149 Broadway, New York.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate10"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate X</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate10.jpg"><img src="images/plate10-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Perspective.</p> - -<p class="caption">Chas. I. Berg. Architect. N.Y.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate11"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate XI</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate11.jpg"><img src="images/plate11-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Perspective Sketch.</p> - -<p class="caption">Fredk. B. White. Architect. 294 Broadway, New York.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate12"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate XII</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate12.jpg"><img src="images/plate12-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">A Stone & Timber Cottage.</p> - -<p class="caption">Wm. B. Tuthill. Architect. 52 Broadway, N.Y.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate13"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate XIII</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate13.jpg"><img src="images/plate13-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Perspective Sketch.</p> - -<p class="caption">Thos. Tryon. Architect. New York.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate14"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate XIV</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate14.jpg"><img src="images/plate14-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Perspective Sketch.</p> - -<p class="caption">Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate15"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate XV</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate15.jpg"><img src="images/plate15-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">A Low priced Sea-side Cottage. Perspective Sketch.</p> - -<p class="caption">Rossiter and Wright Architects.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate16"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate XVI</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate16.jpg"><img src="images/plate16-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Sketch for Small Cottage.</p> - -<p class="caption">Jas. D. Hunter Jr. Architect. New York.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate17"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate XVII</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate17.jpg"><img src="images/plate17-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Bungalow with Attic.</p> - -<p class="caption">Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate18"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate XVIII</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate18.jpg"><img src="images/plate18-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">A house planned to meet the requirements of a 50 ft. suburban lot.</p> - -<p class="caption">Rossiter and Wright Architects.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate19"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate XIX</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate19.jpg"><img src="images/plate19-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Cottage on Side Hill.</p> - -<p class="caption">Arnold W. Brunner. Architect. New York.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate20"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate XX</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate20.jpg"><img src="images/plate20-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">A Double Cottage.</p> - -<p class="caption">Frank F. Ward. Architect. 59 Astor House, N.Y.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate21"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate XXI</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate21.jpg"><img src="images/plate21-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Pair of Semi-detached Cottages.</p> - -<p class="caption">Chas. I. Berg. Architect. N.Y.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate22"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate XXII</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate22.jpg"><img src="images/plate22-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Semi-Detached Homes for a Village Street.</p> - -<p class="caption">Fredk. B. White. Architect. 294 Broadway, New York.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;" id="plate23"> - -<p class="caption-main"><span class="smcap">Plate XXIII</span></p> - -<a href="images/plate23.jpg"><img src="images/plate23-small.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /></a> - -<p class="caption">Sketch for a small double house.</p> - -<p class="caption">Wm. B. Tuthill. Architect. 52 Broadway, N.Y.</p> - -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="ads"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57"></a>[57]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/header-advertisements.jpg" width="600" height="700" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="ADVERTISEMENTS">ADVERTISEMENTS</h2> - -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="center">DURHAM SYSTEM OF HOUSE DRAINAGE.</p> - -<p class="titlepage2">THE<br /> -<span class="larger">Durham House Drainage Company</span><br /> -OF NEW YORK.</p> - -<p class="center smaller">MANUFACTURING THE DURHAM PATENT SYSTEM OF</p> - -<p class="center larger"><span class="smcap">Screw-Joint</span><br /> -IRON HOUSE DRAINAGE</p> - -<p class="center">TRUSTEES:</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 25em;"> - -<ul> -<li><span class="smcap">Joseph P. Davis</span>, Vice-Pres’t Am. Soc. C. E.</li> -<li><span class="smcap">Rudolph Hering</span>, M. Am. Soc. C. E.</li> -<li><span class="smcap">Daniel P. Bruner</span>, M. Am. Soc. C. E.</li> -<li><span class="smcap">Henry G. Prout</span>, M. Am. Soc. C. E.</li> -<li><span class="smcap">C. W. Durham</span>, M. Am. Soc. C. E.</li> -<li><span class="smcap">Wm. H. Boardman.</span></li> -<li><span class="smcap">Dr. C. Fayette Taylor.</span></li> -<li><span class="smcap">Floyd B. Wilson.</span></li> -<li><span class="smcap">Chas. P. Whitney.</span></li> -</ul> - -<ul> -<li>C. W. DURHAM, <span class="smcap">President</span>.</li> -<li>CHAS. P. WHITNEY, <span class="smcap">Secretary</span>.</li> -<li>WM. PAUL GERHARD, <span class="smcap">Chief Eng’r.</span></li> -<li>JOSEPH P. DAVIS, <span class="smcap">Vice-President</span>.</li> -<li>HENRY G. PROUT, <span class="smcap">Treasurer</span>.</li> -<li>H. C. VAIL, <span class="smcap">General Agent</span>.</li> -</ul> - -</div> - -<p class="center">NEW YORK CITY,<br /> -231-235 East Forty-Second Street.</p> - -<table summary=" "> - <tr> - <td><p class="center"><i>ALBANY,<br /><span class="smcap">Richard Prescott, M.E.</span><br />86 State Street.</i></p></td> - <td><p class="center"><i>PHILADELPHIA,<br />114 S. Sixth St.<br />(Ledger Building.)</i></p></td> - <td><p class="center"><i>BROOKLYN,<br />26 Court St.<br />(40 Garfield Building.)</i></p></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class="center">MECHANICAL PERFECTION IN SCIENTIFIC PLUMBING.</p> - -<p>The Durham system of construction for house drains provides absolute -and permanent security from sewer malaria, and relief from expenses for -repairs.</p> - -<p>The Durham Companies construct all work with their own workmen, -under the supervision of their own engineers. Expert mechanics are sent to -any distance to execute contracts.</p> - -<p>All work is of standard quality, fully guaranteed, and furnished at an -ordinary manufacturing profit, at a cost no greater than is asked for the best -class of old style plumbing. Its permanance renders it cheaper than the -cheapest kind of “skin” plumbing.</p> - -<p>The Durham system will be constructed in old or new buildings, including -or excluding the balance of the plumbing work, fixtures and gas fitting, -as may be desired.</p> - -<p>The Durham system can be cheaply introduced into old buildings, making -them fresh and wholesome.</p> - -<p class="center">Illustrated Pamphlets Sent on Application.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58"></a>[58]</span></p> - -<p class="center larger">APPLETON’S HOME-BOOKS.</p> - -<p class="center">Appleton’s Home-Books are now put up in three volumes, elegantly bound in cloth, -four books to a volume, as follows:</p> - -<table summary=" "> - <tr> - <td rowspan="4" class="valign">Volume One:</td> - <td>{</td> - <td>BUILDING A HOME. Illustrated.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>{</td> - <td>HOW TO FURNISH A HOME. Illustrated.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>{</td> - <td>THE HOME GARDEN. Illustrated.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>{</td> - <td>HOME GROUNDS. Illustrated.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td rowspan="4" class="valign">Volume Two:</td> - <td>{</td> - <td>HOME DECORATION. Illustrated.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>{</td> - <td>THE HOME NEEDLE. Illustrated.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>{</td> - <td>AMENITIES OF HOME.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>{</td> - <td>HOUSEHOLD HINTS.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td> </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td rowspan="4" class="valign">Volume Three:</td> - <td>{</td> - <td>THE HOME LIBRARY. Illustrated.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>{</td> - <td>HOME OCCUPATIONS. Illustrated.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>{</td> - <td>HOME AMUSEMENTS.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>{</td> - <td>HEALTH AT HOME.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p><i>Each four books make a large handsome, 12mo volume, printed on extra -fine paper and elegantly bound. Sold in sets, or each volume separately. -Price, $2 per volume. (The separate books may be obtained; price, 60 -cents each.)</i></p> - -<p>“A series of hand-books devoted to the practical scheme of home-making. -The work is planned with especial reference to the needs of the great -body of plain people to whom economy is a prime element in the problem, -but to whom beauty and healthfulness and perfect service are also -indispensable.”—<i>Home Journal.</i></p> - -<p class="center">New York: D. APPLETON & CO., Publishers, 1, 3 and 5 Bond Street.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="center"><span class="larger">100 Page<br /> -ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE</span><br /> -of BOOKS on</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 25em;"> - -<ul> -<li>ARCHITECTURE,</li> -<li>BUILDING,</li> -<li>CARPENTRY,</li> -<li>PAINTING,</li> -<li>DECORATION, <i>and</i></li> -<li>ORNAMENT.</li> -</ul> - -</div> - -<p class="center">SENT TO ANY ADDRESS ON RECEIPT OF 10 CENTS.</p> - -<p class="center">William T. Comstock, Publisher, No. 6 ASTOR PLACE, New York.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59"></a>[59]</span></p> - -<p class="dropcap">The attention of architects, builders and house owners is called to the -only practical fixture for opening and closing outside-blinds, from -within the house, without raising the windows or removing window screen. -With each set of fixtures is furnished all the iron-ware necessary for -hanging a pair of blinds. The hinges are the strongest and most durable -of any in the market; they, and all other parts of the fixture, are -made of malleable-iron and subjected to a process which renders them -rust-proof. They can be applied to blinds already hung, as well as to new -work.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/ad-img-1.jpg" width="700" height="375" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p class="center">For full information apply to</p> - -<p class="center">The Dudley Shutter-Worker and Burglar-Alarm Co.,<br /> -Rooms 105 and 106 Temple Court,<br /> -5 Beekman Street,<br /> -New York City.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60"></a>[60]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/ad-img-2.jpg" width="550" height="700" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">N. H. EGLESTON Jr.</span> No. 7 East Washington Place N.Y.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 25em;"> - -<ul> -<li>MOSAIC GLASS</li> -<li>CURTAINS</li> -<li>TEXTILES</li> -<li>CABINET WOODWORKS</li> -<li>MEMORIAL WINDOWS</li> -<li>AND general leaded glass work for ecclesiastical and domestic use</li> -<li>GAS FIXTURES</li> -<li>Ceiling Designs</li> -<li>AND Mural Decoration</li> -<li>BRASS and OTHER METAL WORK</li> -<li>Glass Mosaics</li> -<li>Designs and estimates for all sorts of interior decoration</li> -</ul> - -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_61"></a>[61]</span></p> - -<p class="center">RECENTLY PUBLISHED.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/ad-img-3.jpg" width="500" height="400" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Design Selected from “American Cottages.”</span></p> -</div> - -<p class="titlepage2">A NEW AND IMPORTANT WORK,</p> - -<p class="center larger">AMERICAN COTTAGES,</p> - -<p class="center">CONSISTING OF 44 LARGE QUARTO PLATES,</p> - -<p class="center smaller">CONTAINING</p> - -<p>Original Designs of Medium and Low Cost Cottages, Seaside and Country -Houses. Also, a Club House, School House, Pavilion, -and a Small Seaside Chapel,</p> - -<p class="center">TOGETHER WITH A FORM OF SPECIFICATION FOR COTTAGES.</p> - -<p>All in the latest prevailing styles, from the drawings of a number of prominent -architects, thus securing a great variety of plans and diversity of treatment, -and offering the largest opportunity for selection.</p> - -<p class="center">ONE LARGE QUARTO VOL. PRICE, POST PAID, $5.</p> - -<p class="titlepage2">PRESS NOTICES.</p> - -<p>Such books as this ... do absolute good to the -profession at large, by showing the public how infinite -are the ways of treating the same problem, and -that even if the appropriation is small, it is not necessary -that the building should be in the carpenter vernacular.—<i>Am. -Architect.</i></p> - -<p>This is a very handsomely gotten up book ... -some of the designs are very fine and are in full accord -with the present prevailing styles of architecture, -and will be found useful to the man who is about to -build, as well as to the architectural student and professional -builder. The work reflects credit on the -publisher.—<i>Builder and Wood-worker.</i></p> - -<p>... The designs are unique, beautiful, and can -be erected at small cost.—<i>Lumber Trade Journal.</i></p> - -<p>Devoted to low priced houses ... is a good -exhibit of artistic feeling in their treatment.—<i>Am. -Agriculturalist.</i></p> - -<p>The whole work is an invaluable one to those contemplating -building.—<i>The Criterion.</i></p> - -<p>Persons about to build will like to consult the collection -of designs ... gathered in American -Cottages.—<i>Home Journal.</i></p> - -<p>Affords a fine field of selection from the latest -and most approved styles of Modern Architecture.—<i>The -Tradesman.</i></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_62"></a>[62]</span></p> - -<p class="center">JUST PUBLISHED.</p> - -<p class="center">A NEW AND REVISED EDITION</p> - -<p class="center"><i>of this important work of especial interest to Architects, Builders, -Painters and House Owners</i>.</p> - -<p class="center larger">MODERN HOUSE PAINTING</p> - -<p>This edition has several new plates, and the whole system of coloring has been -thoroughly revised; new plates in several instances being substituted for the old -ones; the letter press describing the plates has been entirely re-written, making it -practically a new book.</p> - -<p>It contains twenty colored lithographic plates, exhibiting the use of color in -Exterior and Interior House Painting, and embracing examples of simple and elaborate -work in plain, graded and parti-colors. Also the treatment of old styles of -houses, together with full descriptive letter press, covering the preparation, use and -application of colors, with special directions applicable to each example. The whole -work offering valuable hints and suggestions on harmonious color treatment, suitable -to every variety of building.</p> - -<p class="center">By E. K. ROSSITER and F. A. WRIGHT, Architects.</p> - -<p class="center smaller">1 oblong quarto volume, handsomely bound in cloth. Price, post-paid, $5.00</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="center larger">Building Superintendence.</p> - -<p class="center">By Professor THEODORE M. CLARK.</p> - -<p class="center">1 volume. Profusely illustrated with plans, diagrams, etc. Price, $3.00</p> - -<p>An exceedingly valuable work, based on the series of thirty articles recently -published in <i>The American Architect</i>, and so fully illustrated with cuts and diagrams -that every point is made very plain. The countless problems involved in the overseeing -of the construction of buildings are stated, studied and solved in a practical, -direct and perfectly comprehensible manner.</p> - -<p class="center">WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, Publisher, 6 Astor Place, New York.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_63"></a>[63]</span></p> - -<p class="center">RECENTLY PUBLISHED.</p> - -<p class="center larger">INTERIORS<br /> -<span class="smaller">AND</span><br /> -INTERIOR DETAILS</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/ad-img-4.jpg" width="700" height="450" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>Miniature Illustration. Selected from “Interiors and Interior Details.”</i></p> -</div> - -<p>Fifty-two large quarto plates, comprising a large number of original designs of -Halls, Stair-cases, Parlors, Libraries, Dining-Rooms, etc. Together with special -designs for Low Cost, Medium and Elaborate Wood Mantels, Sideboards, Furniture, -Wood Ceilings, Doors, Door and Window Trims, Wainscots, Bank, Office and Store -Fittings, in Perspective, Elevation and Detail, making a valuable series of Suggestions -for Architects, Architectural Designers, Builders and persons intending to build. And -a large collection of interior details suited to the requirements of carpenters, builders -and mechanics, reproduced from the drawings of prominent architects of New York, -Boston, Chicago and other cities. With an Introduction, Description of Plates, and -Notes on Wood Finish.</p> - -<p class="center">By WILLIAM B. TUTHILL, A. M., Architect.<br /> -Author of “Practical Lessons in Architectural Drawing.”</p> - -<p class="center">1 large quarto volume, handsomely bound in cloth. Price, post-paid, $7.50</p> - -<p class="center">WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, Publisher, 6 Astor Place, New York.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_64"></a>[64]</span></p> - -<p class="center">JUST PUBLISHED.</p> - -<p class="center"><i>An Entirely New and Original Work.</i></p> - -<p class="center larger">PRACTICAL LESSONS<br /> -<span class="smaller">IN</span><br /> -ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING</p> - -<p class="center">OR</p> - -<p class="center">How to Make the Working Drawings for Buildings.</p> - -<p><i>44 pages descriptive letter press, illustrated by 33 full page plates -(one in colors), and 33 woodcuts, showing methods of construction and -representation.</i></p> - -<p>The work embraces Scale Drawings of Plans, Elevations, Sections and Details of -Frame, Brick and Stone Buildings, with full descriptions and a form of Specifications -adapted to the same.</p> - -<p>Suited to the wants of Architectural Students, Carpenters, Builders, and all desirous -of acquiring a thorough knowledge of Architectural <span class="smcap">Drawing</span> and <span class="smcap">Construction</span>.</p> - -<p class="center">CONTENTS.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Chap. I.</span>—<i>Introduction.</i> <span class="smcap">Chap. II.</span>—<i>A Small -Frame House.</i> <span class="smcap">Chap. III.</span>—<i>A Frame Building.</i> <span class="smcap">Chap. -IV.</span>—<i>A Brick Building.</i> <span class="smcap">Chap. V.</span>—<i>A Stone -Building.</i> <span class="smcap">Chap. VI.</span>—<i>The Specifications.</i> <span class="smcap">Chap. -VII.</span>—<i>Color.</i></p> - -<p class="center">By WILLIAM B. TUTHILL, A.M., Architect.</p> - -<p class="center">One large 8vo volume, oblong. Cloth. Price, post-paid, $2.50</p> - -<p class="titlepage2">EDITORIAL NOTICES.</p> - -<p>The author has made the most complete and most practical book for -students and builders, ever prepared in this country.—<i>The American -Bookseller.</i></p> - -<p>The Work is designed as a guide to the making of working drawings and -specifications for buildings and is a valuable and practical aid for -carpenters, builders and architectural students.—<i>The Publishers -Weekly.</i></p> - -<p>This work is of a purely practical and useful kind, and such as we have -frequently had inquiries for. To the carpenter, joiner or architectural -student who is struggling to obtain a knowledge of architectural drawing -and construction, this work will prove of great value.—<i>The Builder -and Woodworker.</i></p> - -<p>We have been favored with a number of advance sheets of the above work, -and find it, both in conception and execution, worthy of unqualified -praise. The material embraced in this volume promises to be entirely -new and original, and not the mere re-hash of a literary hack. The work -will be a most useful book of instruction.—<i>The Manufacturer and -Builder.</i></p> - -<p>The work is admirably described in its title. The author is a practical -architect and has made a practical book which will be of great assistance -to carpenters, builders, and students, containing just the information -they most need, and are least likely to find in books.—<i>The United -States News Dealer.</i></p> - -<p>This is probably the most important work to which we have ever drawn -our readers’ attention. It contains within its covers a greater -fund of knowledge than many of the practicing architects of the day -possessed when they first entered the profession. Its usefulness -to those who desire to engage in architecture can therefore be -appreciated.—<i>Carpentry and Building.</i></p> - -<p>A compact handy little manual, we commend it to students.—<i>N. Y. -Sun.</i></p> - -<p>His drawings are clear and thorough and so detailed as to show the whole -construction.—<i>The N. Y. World.</i></p> - -<p>Young men who are seeking a profession, will find it a guide.—<i>N. Y. -Despatch.</i></p> - -<p>The technical work and general construction are admirable. The details -are carefully drawn and show a practiced hand. The introduction is sound. -The work will be welcomed heartily by students and young draftsmen. To -such we cordially recommend it.—<i>The Sanitary Engineer.</i></p> - -<p>—Is one of the most practical and useful books of the kind that we have -ever noticed. It may also be read with advantage by many practicing -architects.—<i>California Architect.</i></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_65"></a>[65]</span></p> - -<p class="center larger">AN IMPROVED LEVELING INSTRUMENT</p> - -<p class="center"><i>Adapted to the use of Architects, Engineers, Masons, Builders, Farmers -and others.</i></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> - -<img src="images/ad-img-5.jpg" width="700" height="450" alt="" /> - -<p>The instrument is made of Brass and Iron, Lacquered and Japanned so that -it will not corrode, and consists of the following principal parts:</p> - -<p>The Sighting Tube A A´. The Horizontal Circle and the lower Disc or Base -B.</p> - -<p class="center">Price of Instrument, Complete, $20.</p> - -<p class="center">THE ONLY LOW PRICED LEVEL THAT CAN BE THOROUGHLY ADJUSTED IN THE FIELD.</p> - -</div> - -<p class="titlepage2">DESCRIPTION OF THE LEVEL.</p> - -<p>The sighting tube A A´ is 14 in. long and has at the end A´ a pin hole -looking through the tube, and at the other end A a small ring inside the -brass shield or outer ring shown in cut holding the cross wires. A cover -is provided as shown in cut to protect the cross wires. This tube rests -in the Ys, Y and Y´. On this tube at the Ys are two rings with flanges, -like car wheels, and it is held in its place by the latches on the top of -the Ys. By loosening these latches this sighting tube may be revolved to -test the adjustment of the cross wires.</p> - -<p>At the feet of the Ys will be seen the nuts, one above and one below the -end of the cross bar, which may be turned, thus raising or lowering the -end of the tube and adjusting the line of sight to the line of level. The -circle C is graduated to 10° and the pointer marked to degrees, so that -the instrument may be used in laying off angles, squaring foundations, -&c. The pointer is movable and can be fixed in position by the set screw -shown in the cut just below the cross bar. The cross bar carries the -glass bubble which is seen in the cut. The bubble itself may be adjusted -by the screws. To the circle are attached the two thumb screws and -springs opposite to them by means of which the instrument is brought to a -level.</p> - -<p>In the outer edge of the Base B is a smoothly turned groove in which -the feet of the screws and springs may slip easily whenever it may be -necessary to revolve the circle on the base. The centre of the base is -formed into a socket for the ball referred to above. The under surface -has a solid cylinder which screws in the collar of the tripod. The cord -suspending the plumb-bob drops from the centre of the instrument to which -it is attached by a loop not shown in the cut. From this description -it will be seen that this instrument can be <i>adjusted</i> in every -way possible in the highest priced instruments, and has besides the -additional feature of a horizontal circle, making it in reality a plain -transit, as well as level.</p> - -<p><i>Every instrument will be completely adjusted before it is shipped.</i></p> - -<p>The instrument is put up in a handsome wooden box with strap for carrying -and furnished with a surveyor’s tripod and a short or mason’s tripod.</p> - -<p class="center">PRICE OF INSTRUMENT COMPLETE, $20.</p> - -<p>Forwarded by express on receipt of price. The charges of transportation -from New York to the purchaser are in all cases to be borne by him, I -guaranteeing the safe arrival of all instruments to the extent of express -transportations, and holding the express companies responsible to me for -all losses or damages on the way.</p> - -<p class="titlepage2">A NEW LEVELING ROD.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/ad-img-6.jpg" width="700" height="75" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>This rod is round and made in two sections, so that it can be -conveniently carried, is united by a solid screw joint, so that when -together it is as firm as if of one length, and has a target as shown in -illustration, made to slide on the rod.</p> - -<p>There are two scales: one side being Engineer’s (feet, 10ths and 100ths); -the other Architect’s scale (or feet, inches and 8ths).</p> - -<p>Forwarded by express on receipt of price. The charges of transportation -from New York to the purchaser are in all cases to be borne by him. -Price, $6.00 Where the Level is ordered with the rod, the price of the -two will be, $25.00.</p> - -<p class="center">WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, Manufacturer, 6 Astor Place, New York.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_66"></a>[66]</span></p> - -<p class="center">JUST PUBLISHED.</p> - -<p class="center larger">MODERN<br /> -Architectural Designs & Details</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/ad-img-7.jpg" width="550" height="700" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Miniature of Plate 44, full size 9 × 12.</p> -</div> - -<p class="center">CONTAINING 80 FINELY LITHOGRAPHED PLATES;</p> - -<p class="noindent">showing new and original designs of <i>Dwellings of Moderate Cost</i>, -in the <i>Queen Anne</i>, <i>Eastlake</i>, <i>Elizabethan</i>, and other -modernized styles, giving Perspective Views, Floor and Framing Plans, -Elevations, Sections, and a great variety of miscellaneous EXTERIOR AND -INTERIOR DETAILS of Dwellings, Stores, Offices, etc. Also, a number of -designs of <i>Low Priced Cottages</i>, in the various popular styles, -adapted to the requirements of <i>Seaside and Summer Resorts</i>, and</p> - -<p class="center">Suburban and Country Places,</p> - -<p class="noindent">comprising drawings by prominent architects of New York, Boston and other localities, as -well as other designs prepared expressly for this work. All Elevations, Plans and Details -to Scale.</p> - -<p class="center">One Large (11 × 14) Quarto Volume, handsomely bound in Cloth.</p> - -<p class="center">Price, post-paid, $10.00.</p> - -<p>☞ For Contents, see following pages. Preface and Contents in English and German.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_67"></a>[67]</span></p> - -<p class="center larger">MODERN<br /> -Architectural Designs and Details.</p> - -<p class="center">PRICE, POST-PAID, $10.00.</p> - -<p class="center">CONTENTS:</p> - -<div class="hanging"> - -<p>Plate 1—Perspective View and Plans of Queen Anne Cottage.</p> - -<p>Plate 2—Three Elevations of same to ⅛ inch Scale.</p> - -<p>Plate 3—Framing Plans, showing Construction.</p> - -<p>Plate 4—Exterior Details of same, ¼ and ¾ inch Scale and Rear Elevation.</p> - -<p>Plate 5—Exterior Details of same, ¼ and ¾ inch Scale.</p> - -<p>Plate 6—Interior Details of same, ¼ and ¾ inch Scale.</p> - -<p>Plate 7—Porch and Details, ½ and ¾ inch Scale, miscellaneous.</p> - -<p>Plate 8—4 Piazzas and Details, ½ and ¾ inch Scale, miscellaneous.</p> - -<table summary=" " class="plate"> - <tr> - <td>Plate 9—</td> - <td>Store Front,</td> - <td> Scale, </td> - <td>¼</td> - <td> inch, </td> - <td>1</td> - <td> foot</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>Details of Show Window,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>½</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>1</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>3 Designs for Counters.</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>½</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>1</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>Elevation of Shelves with Sections,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>1</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>1</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Plate 10—</td> - <td>3 Store Counters and Sections.</td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>2 Designs for Shelving and Sections.</td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>1 Case with Glass Front and Drawers,</td> - <td> Scale, </td> - <td>½</td> - <td class="tdc">in.,</td> - <td>1</td> - <td class="tdc">ft.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Plate 11—</td> - <td>20 Designs for Brackets,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>¾</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>1</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Plate 12—</td> - <td>4 Designs for Gates and Fences,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>¾</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>1</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Plate 13—</td> - <td>10 Designs Window Caps and Hoods,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>3</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>1</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Plate 14—</td> - <td>24 Designs Architraves and Bases,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>3</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>1</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>2 Designs Wainscoting,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>¾</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>1</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>2 Designs Window Sills and Aprons,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>3</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td>1</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>Plate 15—17 Designs, Sections and details of Balconies, Scale, ⅜ & ¾ -inch, 1 foot.</p> - -<p>Plate 16—6 Elevations and 3 Plans of low priced cottages, costing from -$500 to $1,500, according to locality. We do not publish cost in book, -as we prefer to have builders fix prices as per requirements. Scale of -Elevations and Plans, ³⁄₃₂ inch, 1 foot.</p> - -<p>Plate 17—6 Elevations and 3 Plans of low priced Cottages, in Queen Anne -style, costing from $500 to $1,500 and upwards, according to locality and -style of finish. Scale, ³⁄₃₂ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 18—2 Designs and Details of Summer Houses Scale, ½ & ¼ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 19—Perspective View and Plans of House Suitable for Seaside, -Summer or Southern Residence, Scale, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 20—3 Elevations of Design Plate 19. Scale, ⅛ & ⅟₁₆ in, 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 21—Framing Plans of Design Plate 19. Scale, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 22—Exterior Details of Design Plate 19 Scale, ½ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 23—Interior Details of Design Plate 19 Scale, ½ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 24—9 Designs of Window Sash, Queen Anne Style Scale, ¾ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 25—2 Elevations and Details of Stores of moderate cost, with -Dwellings above. Scale, ⅟₁₆, ⅛ and ¾ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 26—Elevations and Details of Stores in Queen Anne Style. Scale, -¼,1½ and 3 in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 27—2 Elevations and Basement Plan of a First Class Modern -Dwelling, to cost about $5,000. Scale of Elevations. ⅛ in. Scale of Plan. -⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 28—First and Second Floor Plans of Design shown on Plates 27 and -29 Scale ⅛ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 29—2 Elevations and Attic Plan of Design Plate 27. Scale of -Elevations, ⅓ in. Scale of Plan, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 30—Details of Front Porch Architraves Panels of Front Door, etc., -of Design Plates 27 and 29. Scale, indicated on plate.</p> - -<p>Plate 31—Details of Rear Porch, Front Gable, Balustrade, Cornice, Water -Table, Shingles, and View of Flower Balcony. Scale, ¼ and 1 in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 32—20 Designs of Exterior and Interior Cornices and Belt Courses. -Scale, ½ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 33—5 Cornices, Wood, Terra Cotta and Stone. Scale, 1 in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 34—4 Designs for Single Doors, and 2 Designs and Sections of Front -and Vestibule Doors. Scale, ½ and 1½ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 35—8 Designs for Exterior and Interior Doors Scale, ½ in. Details -of Panels. ½ full size, and 9 Designs of full size Mouldings.</p> - -<p>Plate 36—15 Designs of Windows. Scale, ¼ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 37—2 Designs and Details of Bay Windows. Scale, ¼ and ¾ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 38—Plans, Elevations and View of a Suburban House of moderate -cost. Scale indicated on plate.</p> - -<p>Plate 39—Details of Design Plate 38. Scale, ½ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 40—Elevations and Sections of Hall, Library, Parlor and 2 Chamber -Mantels. Scale, ½ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 41—Perspective View and Plans of House costing $6,000. Plans to -scale.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_68"></a>[68]</span></p> - -<p>Plate 42—2 Elevations of Design Plate 41. Scale, ⅓ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 43—Exterior Details of Design Plates 41 and 42. Scale, ½ in. 1 ft. -General Piazza Details; Front Gable Details; Dormer in Small Gable; Tower -Dormer; Finial on Tower Roof; Section through Main Cornice; Cut Shingles; -Small Posts Dormer, with Balcony.</p> - -<p>Plate 44—Interior Details of Design Plates 41 and 42. Stair Details Rail -and Balustrade; scale 1 in. 1 ft.; Bracket in Hall: scale, 1 in. 1 ft.; -Bracket used on Beam between Library and Sitting Room; scale, 3 in. 1 -ft.; Window finish; scale, 3 in. 1 ft.; Elevation of Staircase; scale, -1½ in. 1 ft.; Small Post, scale, 1½ in. 1 ft.; Bracket on Small Posts; -scale, 1½ in. 1 ft.; Roll stopping Hand Rail on Newel Post; scale, 1½ in. -1 ft.; Rosette on Newel; scale, 1½ in. 1 ft.; Stair Newel; scale, 1½ in. 1 -ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 45—Perspective View of Queen Anne House at Short Hills, N. J., -with Oriel Bay Window and 4 plans. Plans to scale. Cost $6,000.</p> - -<p>Plate 46—Front and Side Elevations of Design Plate 45; scale, ⅓ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 47—Exterior Details, Design Plates 45 and 46; scale, ½ in. 1 ft.; -Bracket over Balcony; Water Table, etc.; Section through Verandah; Tower -Finial; Triplet Window in side Gable; Carved Panels under front Gable -Window; Section through Oriel; Porch Gable.</p> - -<p>Plate 48—Interior Details, Design Plates 45 and 46; scale of Elevations, -½ in. 1 ft.; scale of details, 1½ in. 1 ft.; Interior of Hall; Newel; -Baluster Rail, etc.; Wainscot; Hall Arch; Triplet Window; Horizontal -section; Section through window sill; Cornice.</p> - -<p>Plate 49—Perspective View and Plans of a Sea or Lake-Shore Cottage. -Plans to Scale.</p> - -<p>Plate 50—Water Front and Side Elevation of Design Plate 49. Drawn to -scale.</p> - -<p>Plate 51—Perspective View of Main Hall of Design Plate 49. Half Plan at -Fireplace; Half Plan at Shelf; Plan and Elevation of Drawing Room; scale, -¼ in. Details of Porch, Gable and Chimney at ½ in. scale.</p> - -<p>Plate 52—2 Sea-Side Cottages or Southern Houses, with Front Elevations -and Plans of First Floor; Scale, ³⁄₃₂ in.</p> - -<p>Plate 53—3 Small Sea-Shore or Southern Cottages, Two Elevations of each -and one Plan of each. Scale of Elevations, 12 ft. to 1 in. Scale of Plan -24 and 36 ft. to 1 in.</p> - -<p>Plate 54—5 Designs for Lattice Work. Scale, ⅛ in. to 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 55—6 Specimens of Sea-Side Cottages. Scale Design No. 1, ⅛ in. to -1 ft. Scale Designs No. 2 to 6, ³⁄₃₂ in. to 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 56—Inside Finish of a Summer Cottage. Fireplace, Niche and Plan -Scale. ⅜ in. to 1 ft. Staircase Details and Bracket under Beam. Scale, 1 -in. to 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 57—Front and North Elevations of a Lake View Cottage. Scale, ⅛ in.</p> - -<p>Plate 58—Plans of First and Second Floors, Roof and Attic. Scale, ⅟₁₆ in.</p> - -<p>Plate 59—South and Rear Elevations of Lake View Cottage. Scale, ⅛ in.</p> - -<p>Plate 60—Details of Lake View Cottage. Hall, Fire-Place and Section -Scale, ⅜ in. Exterior Finish Scale, ¼ in. Interior Finish Scale, ¾ in.</p> - -<p>Plate 61—Plan, Elevations and Sections of a Dining Room Closet. Scale of -Design, ½ in. Scale of Details, 1½ in.</p> - -<p>Plate 62—Plans, Elevations, Details and Sections of 2 Wash Bowl -Cabinets. Scales, 1 and 3 in.</p> - -<p>Plate 63—5 Elevations and 4 Plans of Low Priced Colonial Cottages. -Scale, ³⁄₃₂ in.</p> - -<p>Plate 64—Turned Work. 5 Designs of Posts, 18 Designs of Balusters, 3 -Designs of Columns, 6 Designs of Drops and 6 Designs of Finials.</p> - -<p>Plate 65—Perspective View and Plans of a Modern Dwelling costing about -$3,500. Scale of Plans, ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 66—2 Elevations and Sections of Design Plate 65. Scale, ⅛ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 67—Exterior and Interior Details of Design, plate 65. Scale ½ in. -1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 68—A Balcony Gable. Scale, ½ in. 1 ft. Section, ¼ in. Plan, ⅓ in. -Section of Cornices at ½ full size. Baluster, ½ full size.</p> - -<p>Plate 69—Design of House recently Erected in California. This plate -shows 2 Plans, 2 Elevations, Sections and Details. Scale, ⅟₁₆ to ¼ in. 1 -ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 70—3 Designs and Details of Verge Boards. Scale of Designs, ½ in. -1 ft. Details, 1½ in.</p> - -<p>Plate 71—2 Plans and 2 Elevations of Dwelling House showing Eastlake -features. Scale, ⅛ in. 1 ft. to ⅟₃₂ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 72—4 Elevations and 4 Sections of Ventilators. Scale, ¼ in. 1 ft. -to ¾ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 73—Perspective View and Plans of Brick and Frame Cottage. Scale, -⅟₁₆ in. 1 foot.</p> - -<p>Plate 74—Three Elevations of Design, Plate 73. Scale, ⅛ and ⅟₁₆ in. 1 ft.</p> - -<p>Plate 75—Exterior and Interior Details of Design, Plate 73, embracing -Details of Main Cornice, Parlor Bay, Porch, Cresting, Front Staircase and -Parlor Mantel. Scales, ½ in. and 1½ in. 1 foot.</p> - -<p>Plate 76—Dwelling in the Elizabethan Style. Elevations and Plans. Scale, -³⁄₃₂ in. 1 foot.</p> - -<p>Plate 77—Fittings for Banking or Insurance Office. Elevations and -Sections of Counter and Screen; Partition, Balusters, Rail, Desk, &c. -Scale, ½ in. 1 foot.</p> - -<p>Plate 78—Bank Fixtures, 2 Elevations of Bank Desks, Sections of same and -Details. Scale of Elevations, ¾ in. 1 foot; Scale of Details, 3 in. 1 -foot.</p> - -<p>Plate 79—Ventilating Registers, cut in Brass, 2 circular, 2 oblong, and -3 spandril. Scale, ⅓ and ¼ full size.</p> - -<p>Plate 80—Eight Designs for Chimney Tops. Scale, ½ in. 1 foot.</p> - -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_69"></a>[69]</span></p> - -<p class="center">$10.00, Reduced to $6.00.</p> - -<p class="center">THIS VALUABLE BOOK,</p> - -<p class="center larger">Detail, Cottage and Constructive Architecture.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/ad-img-8.jpg" width="600" height="700" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p class="center">Containing Seventy-Five Large Lithographic Plates, Published under the -direction of A. J. BICKNELL.</p> - -<p>Showing a great variety of Designs for Cornices, Brackets, Windows -and Window Caps, Doors, Piazzas, Porches, Bay and Dormer Windows, -Observatories, Towers, Chimney Tops, Balconies, Canopies, Scrolls, Gable -and Sawed Ornaments, Fences, Stairs, Newels, Architraves, Mantels, -Plaster Finish, Etc., including: Forty-five Perspectives, Elevations, -and Plans of Modern Designs for Cottages, with Details, and Eighteen -Elevations of Summer Houses, Villas, Sea-Side Cottages, and Country -Houses, together with Fourteen Designs for Street and Store Fronts, -with inside finish for Stores and Banks; also, Framing for Dwellings, -Barns, Exhibition Buildings, Roofs, Bridges, etc., etc., making in all -a Practical Book for Architects, Builders, Carpenters, and all who -contemplate Building or Remodeling Wood, Stone, or Brick Buildings.</p> - -<p class="center">ONE LARGE QUARTO VOLUME.<br /> -SENT FREE, BY MAIL OR EXPRESS, ON RECEIPT OF PRICE.<br /> -$6.00.</p> - -<p class="center"><i>For description of Plates see following pages.</i></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_70"></a>[70]</span></p> - -<p class="center">RECENTLY PUBLISHED.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/ad-img-9.jpg" width="700" height="250" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">“Artistic Homes.”</span></p> -</div> - -<p class="center">BY A. W. FULLER, Architect,</p> - -<p class="center">Containing 44 Plates of Queen Anne and Colonial Style Villas and Cottages, -costing from $700 upwards</p> - -<p class="center"><i>One large (8½ × 12 inches) volume, handsomely bound in Cloth.</i></p> - -<p class="center">PRICE, POST-PAID, $3.50.</p> - -<p class="titlepage2">CONTENTS:</p> - -<div class="hanging"> - -<p>Plate I.—Perspective View of Stone and tile villa.</p> - -<p>Plate II.—Floor Plans of Plate I.</p> - -<p>Plate III.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate I, showing -staircase and terra cotta mantel.</p> - -<p>Plate IV.—Perspective View of Dining Room of Plate I, showing fireplace, -recess, sideboard, dining table and furniture.</p> - -<p>Plate V.—Perspective View of brick and tile villa.</p> - -<p>Plate VI.—Floor Plans of Plate V.</p> - -<p>Plate VII.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate V, showing -staircase, fireplace under staircase in arched recess, and entrance to -conservatory.</p> - -<p>Plate VIII.—Perspective View of wood villa.</p> - -<p>Plate IX.—Floor Plans of Plate VIII.</p> - -<p>Plate X.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate VIII, showing -staircase, &c.</p> - -<p>Plate XI.—Perspective View of dining room of Plate VIII, showing -fireplace and mantel, and furniture.</p> - -<p>Plate XII.—Perspective View of “The old made new.”</p> - -<p>Plate XIII.—Perspective View of wood villa.</p> - -<p>Plate XIV.—Floor Plans of Plate XIII.</p> - -<p>Plate XV.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate XIII, showing -staircase, &c.</p> - -<p>Plate XVI.—Perspective View of wood villa.</p> - -<p>Plate XVII.—Floor Plans of villa No. XVI.</p> - -<p>Plate XVIII.—Perspective View of brick and tile villa.</p> - -<p>Plate XIX.—Floor Plans of Plate XVIII.</p> - -<p>Plate XX.—Perspective View of wood villa.</p> - -<p>Plate XXI.—Floor Plans of Plate XX.</p> - -<p>Plate XXII.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage.</p> - -<p>Plate XXIII.—Floor Plans of Plate XXII.</p> - -<p>Plate XXIV.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage.</p> - -<p>Plate XXV.—Floor Plans of Plate XXIV.</p> - -<p>Plate XXVI.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage.</p> - -<p>Plate XXVII.—Floor Plans of Plate XXVI.</p> - -<p>Plate XXVIII.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage.</p> - -<p>Plate XXIX.—Floor Plans of Plate XXVIII.</p> - -<p>Plate XXX.—Perspective View of Wood Cottage.</p> - -<p>Plate XXXI.—Floor Plans of Plate XXX.</p> - -<p>Plate XXXII.—Perspective View of Seaside Cottage (wood).</p> - -<p>Plate XXXIII.—Floor Plans of Plate XXXII.</p> - -<p>Plate XXXIV.—Perspective View of Seaside Cottage (wood).</p> - -<p>Plate XXXV.—Floor Plans of Plate XXXIV.</p> - -<p>Plate XXXVI.—Perspective View of Bed-room Interior, showing furniture.</p> - -<p>Plate XXXVII.—Perspective View of Bed-room Interior, showing furniture.</p> - -<p>Plate XXXVIII.—Explanation of the Drainage and Plumbing.</p> - -<p>Plate XXXIX.—Drawing showing the Drain and Plumbing.</p> - -<p>Plate XL.—Perspective View of a City House Front.</p> - -<p>Plate XLI.—Floor Plans of Plate XL.</p> - -<p>Plate XLII.—Perspective View of Staircase Hall of Plate XL., showing -Staircase, Hatstand, &c.</p> - -<p>Plate XLIII.—Floor Plans of a City House built in a block.</p> - -<p>Plate XLIV.—Perspective View of a Country Church built of brick and -Stone, and costing $10,000.</p> - -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_71"></a>[71]</span></p> - -<p class="center larger">STANDARD ARCHITECTURAL BOOKS</p> - -<div class="hanging"> - -<p><b>BICKNELL’S DETAIL, COTTAGE AND CONSTRUCTIVE ARCHITECTURE.</b> -Containing seventy-five large Lithographic Plates, published under -the direction of <span class="smcap">A. J. Bicknell</span>, showing a great variety of -Designs for Cornices, Brackets, Windows and Window Caps, Doors, Piazzas, -Porches, Bay and Dormer Windows, Observatories, Towers, Chimney Tops, -Balconies, Canopies, Scrolls, Gable and Sawed Ornaments, Fences, Stairs, -Newels, Architraves, Mantles, Plaster Finish, etc., including forty-five -Perspectives, Elevations and Plans of Modern Designs for Cottages, with -Details, and eighteen Elevations of Summer Houses, Villas, Seaside -Cottages and Country Houses, together with fourteen Designs for Street -and Store Fronts, with inside finish for Stores and Banks; also Framing -for Dwellings, Barns, Exhibition Buildings, Roofs, Bridges, etc., making -in all a Practical Book for Architects, Builders, Carpenters, and all -who contemplate Building or Remodeling Wood, Stone or Brick Buildings. -One large 4to volume, sent free by mail or express on receipt of price. -Reduced from $10.00 to $6.00.</p> - -<p><b>BROWN’S BUILDING TABLE AND ESTIMATE BOOK.</b> By a Practical Mechanic. -For Carpenters, Builders and Lumber Men. One 8vo volume, cloth, 152 -pages. $1.50.</p> - -<p><b>CAMP’S DRAFTSMAN’S MANUAL; or, How Can I Learn Architecture.</b> By -<span class="smcap">F. T. Camp</span>. Containing Hints to Enquirers and Directions in -Draftsmanship. Contents:—Introduction; Preliminary Words; Draftsman’s -Outfit; Technics of Planning; General Remarks on Planning; General -Remarks on Exteriors; Drawing the Plan; Using the Instruments; Designing -the Elevations; Tracing and Inking; Proportion of Rooms. New, Revised and -Enlarged Edition. One small volume, cloth. Price 50c.</p> - -<p><b>CUMMINGS’ ARCHITECTURAL DETAILS.</b> By <span class="smcap">M. F. Cummings</span>, -M. A., Architect, Associate Author of “Architecture, by Cummings and -Miller.” Containing 387 Designs and 967 Illustrations of the Various -Parts needed in the Construction of Buildings, Public and Private, both -for the City and Country; also Plans and Elevations of Houses, Stores, -Cottages, and other Buildings. One large 4to volume, fifty-six Plates. -Reduced from $10.00 to $6.00.</p> - -<p><b>GARDNER’S COMMON SENSE IN CHURCH BUILDING.</b> By <span class="smcap">E. C. -Gardner</span>, author of “Homes and How to Make them,” “Illustrated -Homes,” and “Home Interiors.” Illustrated by seven original Plates. One -12mo volume, handsomely bound in cloth. Price $1.00.</p> - -<p><b>GOULD’S CARPENTERS’ AND BUILDERS’ ASSISTANT AND WOODWORKERS’ -GUIDE.</b> By <span class="smcap">L. D. Gould</span>, Architect and Practical Builder. -(Fourth Revised Edition) Containing thirty-six Plates, fully described. -Also, Tables of the Strength of Materials, Length of Braces where the -Run is given, and Length of Run where the Brace is given. Technical -Terms used by Carpenters, etc. This work is intended to combine all the -knowledge the workman requires to construct any design in carpentry by an -easy system of lines. 8vo volume, bound in cloth. Price $2.50.</p> - -<p><b>HULME’S TREATISE ON MATHEMATICAL DRAWING INSTRUMENTS, and How to Use -Them.</b> One imperial 16mo volume, bound in cloth, containing 152 Pages, -and over 70 Illustrations, including 11 different Styles of Lettering. -Price $1.50.</p> - -<p><b>HUSSEY’S HOME BUILDING.</b> This work contains 42 Plates of Designs -and Plans of Dwellings of low and medium cost, with short Descriptive -Specifications, including 2 Designs for Small Barns, 1 Design for -Carriage-House, 1 Design for Small Bank Building, 1 Design for Small -Chapel, and 1 Design for a Church. Nearly 400 pages in all, including -letter-press. Price $2.50.</p> - -<p><b>INTERIORS AND INTERIOR DETAILS.</b> With an Introduction, Description -of Plates, and Notes on Wood Finish, by <span class="smcap">Wm. B. Tuthill</span>, A. -M., Architect, author of “Practical Lessons in Architectural Drawing.” -Fifty-two large quarto plates, comprising a large number of original -designs of Halls, Staircases, Parlors, Libraries, Dining rooms, etc. -Together with special designs for Low Cost, Medium and Elaborate Wood -Mantels, Sideboards, Furniture, Wood Ceilings, Doors, Door and Window -Trims, Wainscots, Bank Office, and Store Fittings, in Perspective, -Elevation and Detail, making a valuable series of Suggestions for -Architects and Architectural Designers. And a large collection of -interior details suited to the requirements of carpenters, builders -and mechanics, reproduced from the drawings of prominent architects of -New York, Boston, Chicago, and other cities. One large quarto volume, -handsomely bound in cloth. Price $7.50.</p> - -<p><b>MITCHELL’S STEPPING-STONE TO ARCHITECTURE.</b> By <span class="smcap">Thomas -Mitchell</span>. Nearly 100 engravings. Price 60c.</p> - -<p><b>ROSSITER & WRIGHT’S MODERN HOUSE PAINTING.</b> (New Edition). By -<span class="smcap">E. K. Rossiter</span> and <span class="smcap">F. A. Wright</span>, Architects. Containing -20 colored lithographic plates, exhibiting the use of color in the -Exterior and Interior House Painting, and embracing examples of simple -and elaborate work in plain, graded and parti-colors. Also the treatment -of old style of houses, together with full descriptive letter press, -covering the preparation, use and application of colors, with special -directions applicable to each example. The whole work offering valuable -hints and suggestions on harmonious color treatment, suitable to every -variety of building. One oblong quarto volume, handsomely bound in cloth. -Price $5.00.</p> - -<p><b>TUTHILL’S PRACTICAL LESSONS IN ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING; Or, How to Make -the Working Drawings for Buildings.</b> By <span class="smcap">Wm. B. Tuthill</span>, A. -M., Architect. 44 pages descriptive letter-press, illustrated by 33 -full-page plates (one in colors) and 33 wood-cuts, showing methods of -construction and representation. One large 8vo volume, oblong. Cloth. -Price $2.50.</p> - -<p><b>WITHERS’ CHURCH ARCHITECTURE.</b> By <span class="smcap">Frederick Clark Withers</span>. -Illustrated with Plans, Elevations and Views of twenty-one Churches and -two School Houses, Photo-Lithographed from original drawings; also full -descriptive letter-press, which includes numerous engravings on wood, -showing construction and details. One large volume of fifty-one 9 × 10 -Plates, substantially bound in extra cloth. Sent by express to any part -of the United States on receipt of the price $10.00.</p> - -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72"></a>[72]</span></p> - -<p class="center larger">HINTS<br /> -<span class="smaller">ON THE</span><br /> -Drainage and Sewerage of Dwellings.</p> - -<p class="center">By WM. PAUL GERHARD, Civil Engineer.</p> - -<p class="center">One 12mo volume. Cloth, Price, $2.50.</p> - -<p class="titlepage2">CONTENTS.</p> - -<table summary=" "> - <tr> - <td class="nw">CHAPTER</td> - <td class="tdr">I.—</td> - <td>Fresh Air versus Sewer Gas.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdr">II.—</td> - <td>Necessity of Ventilation in Rooms containing “Modern Conveniences, and Defective Arrangements of Plumbing Fixtures.” Figs. 1 to 18.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdr">III.—</td> - <td>Soil and Waste Pipe System as usually found in Dwellings. Figs. 19 to 31.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdr">IV.—</td> - <td>Traps and Systems of Trapping. Figs 32 to 38.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdr">V.—</td> - <td>Details of Traps. Figs. 39 to 159.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdr">VI.—</td> - <td>Insecurity of Common Water Seal Traps. Figs. 160 to 164.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdr">VII.—</td> - <td>Defects in the Plumbing Work of Dwellings.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdr">VIII.—</td> - <td>Cellar Drains and Drainage of Cellars. Figs. 165 to 169.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdr">IX.—</td> - <td>Usual Defects of House Drains, Sewer Connections, Privies, Vaults and Cesspools. Figs. 170 to 181.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdr">X.—</td> - <td>System of Plumbing as it should be inside a Dwelling. Figs. 182 to 206.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdr">XI.—</td> - <td>Plumbing Fixtures. Figs. 207 to 262.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdr">XII.—</td> - <td>Removal and Disposal of Household Wastes. Figs. 263 to 282.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class="titlepage2"><i>NOTICES OF THE PRESS.</i></p> - -<p>Rarely do we find between the covers of one small book more satisfactory -wisdom than is contained in Mr. Wm. Paul Gerhard’s “Drainage and -Sewerage of Dwellings.”... Typographically, the book is all that can be -desired, the binding is elegant, and the illustrations are copious and -clear.—<i>The Builder.</i></p> - -<p>... It contains a large amount of well-digested matter, is copiously -illustrated on almost every page, and written in a clear and direct -style.... We recommend the work to all who are interested in the subject -as a valuable addition to the existing literature on the subject -treated.—<i>The Sanitary Engineer.</i></p> - -<p>Mr. Gerhard again shows his practical acquaintance with sanitary matters -and the best remedies and methods to correct the prevalent evils -connected with the application of this important science in the work -before us. The very presentable manner, in which the author treats his -subject, is by no means the least valuable feature of his literary work -in the direction indicated.—<i>American Engineer.</i></p> - -<p>... While it does not pretend to be an <i>exhaustive</i> treatise on -these subjects, it most certainly possesses a practical value, which is -far superior to many of the larger works on Dwelling House Sanitation. -The author has wisely employed the <i>pencil</i> as well as the pen in -the illustration of his subject. And when we state the fact that there -are 282 illustrations (not old ones already used in other works, but -mostly new, fresh and artistic) within the compass of 302 pages, it will -be seen that suggestion and instruction are conveyed in the most direct -and forcible manner.... There is throughout the book a remarkable absence -of any “pet theory,” or of the advertisement of any special “patent”—in -short, it is a book which we should like to see upon the library table of -every physician in the land.—<i>N. Y. Medical Times.</i></p> - -<p>Our readers are already familiar with the thoroughly lucid and practical -style of Mr. Gerhard’s contributions to sanitary works. We commend -this book as a brief manual to all architects, engineers, builders, -mechanics, physicians, sanitarians and householders—to none more than -the last.—<i>The Sanitarian.</i></p> - -<p>We have seen no more thorough, intelligent and convincing discussion -of the important subject of house drainage than Mr. Wm. Paul Gerhard’s -“Hints on the Drainage and Sewerage of Dwellings.”—<i>Literary World.</i></p> - -<p>A volume on domestic economy, well worth examination, is <i>Hints on the -Drainage and Sewerage of Dwellings</i>, by Wm. Paul Gerhard, C. E., a -16mo. of about 300 pages, which states clearly the correct principles and -methods, shows by copious intelligible diagrams the ordinary variations, -neglects and defects, and contains in large variety and full detail, -descriptions and drawings of the means and appliances that may be relied -on, and the principle of their construction and operation. For full, -intelligent treatment of all questions involved, both in theory and -practice, relating to the causes of trouble, the theories involved in -their treatment, and the mechanical appliances available, this is the -very best condensed manual that has yet appeared.—<i>The Independent.</i></p> - -<p>This valuable little manual consists of articles from “Building,” revised -and extended, and will be found of much service by builders, architects, -physicians and householders.... It would be a good idea for every head -of a family to examine the sanitary state of his or her surroundings, -with this book as a guide.... So also, those intending to lease or buy -new houses, would find the price of the work an ounce of prevention which -could not be better expended. Mr. Gerhard is an experienced engineer, -well read in sanitary literature, and a clear and careful writer.—<i>The -Christian Union.</i></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_73"></a>[73]</span></p> - -<p class="center larger">“BUILDING.”</p> - -<p class="center">AN ARCHITECTURAL MONTHLY.</p> - -<p class="center">Subscription, $1.00 per Year, in advance. Single Copies, 10 cts.</p> - -<p>Treating on all matters of interest to the Building trades. <i>Each -number contains 4 full-page lithographic plates.</i> With the February -number will commence a series of articles on Roof Construction, fully -illustrated, by Prof. <span class="smcap">N. Clifford Ricker</span>, of the Illinois Industrial University. -The <i>Competition Designs for a $2,500 Cottage</i> are now in -course of publication.</p> - -<p>Samples sent on application. Special inducements will be offered those -wishing to get up clubs; <i>send for club rates</i>.</p> - -<p class="center larger">“SPECIAL ILLUSTRATED EDITION OF BUILDING.”</p> - -<p class="center">DEVOTED TO ARCHITECTURE, FURNITURE, DECORATION AND ORNAMENT.</p> - -<p class="center"><i>PUBLISHED MONTHLY.</i></p> - -<p class="center">Subscription, $5 a Year in advance. Single Copies, 50c.</p> - -<p>It is intended to make this a most elaborate and complete architectural -journal. It will be issued in a handsome cover, and contain in addition -to the contents of the regular issue of “<span class="smcap">Building</span>,” a large number of -Lithographic Plates, a special feature of which will be the republication -of the best designs selected from the <i>leading foreign journals</i>, so that -subscribers for this monthly will obtain the <i>cream</i> of all the <i>foreign -publications</i> on these subjects.</p> - -<p>Each number contains <i>16 full-page lithographic plates</i>.</p> - -<p class="titlepage2">PRESS NOTICES</p> - -<p class="center">Of “<span class="smcap">Building</span>,” and the “<span class="smcap">Special Illustrated Edition of Building</span>.”</p> - -<p>It is not often that so much and so valuable material -is found at one time in a trade journal.—<i>The -Publishers’ Weekly.</i></p> - -<p>In its specialty this journal cannot fail to be of -the greatest service, and all persons interested in -building should avail themselves of its store of valuable -information.—<i>Bookseller and Stationer.</i></p> - -<p>The magazine is well edited, and must prove very -interesting to those interested in building.—<i>American -Machinist.</i></p> - -<p>Mr. Comstock is to be congratulated upon the contents -and general appearance of his Special Illustrated -Edition of <span class="smcap">Building</span>. We have no doubt this -new venture will be appreciated by the architectural -and building public.—<i>Engineering News.</i></p> - -<p>The first number of the second volume of <span class="smcap">Building</span>, -an excellent architectural monthly, has just -made its appearance. It is full of instructive matter, -and the illustrations are numerous, well executed -and interesting.—<i>The Evening Telegram.</i></p> - -<p>For an architect or builder, this publication cannot -fail to be of great and continual interest.—<i>The -New York World.</i></p> - -<p>We are in receipt of <span class="smcap">Building</span>. It bears eloquent -testimony to eminent literary, as well as artistic -talent, connected with its publication.—<i>Chemical -Review.</i></p> - -<p>“<span class="smcap">Building</span>” begins its second volume with a -special number filled with a rich array of illustrations.... -Persons who desire a monthly magazine, -devoted to the circle of arts, included under the title -of building, will do well to examine this work.—<i>Home -Journal.</i></p> - -<p>One of the handsomest and best architectural -papers among our exchanges is <span class="smcap">Building</span>. Well -illustrated, printed and edited, treating on all matters -of interest to the building trade.—<i>Wood and -Iron.</i></p> - -<p>We most heartily congratulate Mr. Comstock on -the fine appearance of <span class="smcap">Building</span>, and feel confident -he will meet with the success his energy and enterprise -deserves.—<i>American Real Estate Guide.</i></p> - -<p>In the richness of contents, beauty of illustrations, -the current number of <span class="smcap">Building</span> is a decided credit -to American journalism.—<i>Trade Review and Western -Machinist.</i></p> - -<p>The value to the architect and builder cannot be -overestimated, and the price, five dollars a year, is a -merely nominal consideration for the subjects of interest -and instruction it possesses.—<i>Lumber Trade -Journal.</i></p> - -<p>Very attractive in appearance, and is well worthy -of liberal patronage.—<i>American Engineer.</i></p> - -<p>Nothing finer in its way has been offered to the -public.—<i>The Mechanical News.</i></p> - -<p>The illustrations are very artistic.—<i>The Sanitary -News.</i></p> - -<p>The number before us is in itself a complete book -on building and kindred subjects.—<i>Chattanooga -Daily Times.</i></p> - -<p>We commend the <span class="smcap">Building</span> to our students, amateurs -and professors in architecture and building.—<i>Ithaca -Daily Journal.</i></p> - -<p>It is without doubt the most valuable publication -of the kind published in the country.—<i>Southern -Lumberman.</i></p> - -<p>One of the best architectural periodicals of the day -is <span class="smcap">Building</span>.—<i>The Christian Union.</i></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Building</span>, an architectural monthly.... This -new claimant for public favor well deserves it.... -Every number is worth the subscription price to any -who have interest in building, old or new.—<i>Living -Church, Chicago.</i></p> - -<p><i>Persons sending 50c. for sample copy of the “<span class="smcap">Special Illustrated -Edition of Building</span>” will receive a receipt entitling them to the -remaining numbers for the year on receipt of $4.50, provided their -subscription is received within 60 days thereafter.</i></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_74"></a>[74]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/ad-img-10.jpg" width="700" height="500" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>Miniature Illustration. Selected from the “Special -Illustrated Edition of Building.”</i></p> -</div> - -<p class="center">Subscription, $5.00 per Year. Single Copies, 50 cents.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/ad-img-11.jpg" width="700" height="450" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>Miniature Illustration. Selected from “Building.”</i></p> -</div> - -<p class="center">Subscription, $1.00 per Year. Single Copies, 10 cents.</p> - -<p class="center">WILLIAM T. COMSTOCK, Publisher, 6 Astor Place, NEW YORK.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_75"></a>[75]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/ad-img-12.jpg" width="700" height="500" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>Miniature Illustration. Selected from “Building.”</i></p> -</div> - -<p class="center">BUILDING.</p> - -<p class="center">Regular Edition, $1.00 per Year.</p> - -<p class="center">Special Illustrated Edition, $5.00 per Year.</p> - -<p class="center">WM. T. COMSTOCK, Publisher, 6 Astor Place, N. Y.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_76"></a>[76]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> - -<img src="images/ad-img-13.jpg" width="700" height="250" alt="" /> - -<p class="center"><i>Lincrusta-Walton</i></p> - -<p class="center">THE<br /> -New Indestructible<br /> -AND<br /> -Imperishable Decoration -FOR<br /> -WALLS AND CEILINGS, FURNITURE AND ART OBJECTS.</p> - -<p class="center"><i>Lincrusta-Walton</i></p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/ad-img-14.jpg" width="700" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">WAINSCOTING IN LINCRUSTA-WALTON.</p> -</div> - -<p class="center">The Designs.</p> - -<p>Lincrusta-Walton is the refinement of all previous systems of decoration. -The designs are of a high order of artistic merit, making the material -the most perfect and beautiful of all coverings for Walls and Ceilings.</p> - -<p class="center">The Material</p> - -<p class="noindent">is water-proof. Durable as the wall. Has many <i>sanitary advantages</i>. -As easy to hang as wall paper.</p> - -<p class="center">Cost.</p> - -<p>The price is quite moderate, and its durability renders its use -economical.</p> - -<p class="center">New Buildings</p> - -<p class="noindent">can be permanently decorated at once, as Lincrusta-Walton is unaffected -by moisture, and excludes damp. Now in general use in Public Buildings -and Private Dwellings, Hotels, Offices, and the homes of the people. Sold -by all Decorators, Furniture, Wall Paper and Art Dealers throughout the -United States. <i>Send for Descriptive Pamphlet.</i></p> - -<p class="center">FR. BECK & CO. Manufacturers of Fine Wall Papers,<br /> -Corner 29th Street and 7th Avenue, N. Y.</p> - -<p class="center">The only Manufacturers of Lincrusta-Walton in the United States under the patents.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_77"></a>[77]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/ad-img-15.jpg" width="700" height="200" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">H. W. JOHNS’ ASBESTOS LIQUID PAINTS</p> -</div> - -<p>Our liquid paints <i>are composed exclusively of the best and purest -materials combined on different principles from any other Liquid or Mixed -Paints</i>. They have been thoroughly tested in nearly all parts of the -world and have been found to withstand the severest tests of climatic -changes, sea air and other trying exposures, where the best white lead -has failed, and the universal testimony of those who have used them is -sufficient proof of our claims that they are in every respect <i>strictly -reliable and first-class paints of a higher grade</i> than have ever -before been offered to the public for structural purposes, either in -“paste” or liquid form, and second to none in richness and permanency of -color, beauty of finish, durability, uniformity, and all characteristics -which are requisite to form a perfect ornamental protective covering.</p> - -<p><i>Our paints are sold by U.S. Standard Gallon measure (231 cubic -inches); i.e., our packages contain, from 8 to 12 per cent. more paint -than is usually sold for the same quantity, and they weigh from 10 to 20 -per cent. more to the gallon than any others in the market.</i> <span class="smcap">One -gallon will cover from 225 to 250 square feet, two coats.</span></p> - -<p>We manufacture forty-eight shades of “body” and trimming colors, and also -make Standard and Light Greens, Light and Dark Blues, Reds, Black, etc., -samples of which will be supplied on application.</p> - -<p>The finest and most extensive structures in this country are painted -with these paints, among them, the U.S. Capitol at Washington; Light -Houses and Life Saving Stations; U.S. Custom House at Chicago; Navy Yard -Buildings; Metropolitan Elevated R. R; Oriental and Manhattan Beach -Hotels; the “Argyle” and Cottages at Babylon; Hygeia Hotel, Fortress -Monroe; Thousand Islands House; Crossman House; Forest Hill House, -Franconia, N. H.; Sinclair House, Bethlehem, N. H.; Fort Point House, -Stockton, Me.; Pequot House and Cottages, New London, Conn.; Appledore -House, Isle of Shoals; the “Dakota,” New York City, and thousands of -other public and private buildings.</p> - -<p class="center">Our pamphlet on</p> - -<p class="center">“STRUCTURAL DECORATION”</p> - -<p class="center"><i>Will be sent free by mail on application.</i></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="center larger"><span class="smcap">ROOF, CAR and BRIDGE PAINTS</span></p> - -<p>These paints possess a more elastic body than any other, and are less -liable to injury. They are prepared ready for use, and have proven to be -the most economical paints ever produced for similar purposes. They were -originally designed for preserving <span class="smcap">tin and other roofs</span>, but are -now also used for railroad buildings, bridges, freight cars, steamboat -decks, boats, and all wood and iron work exposed to salt or fresh water, -and are especially adapted for out-buildings, fences, floors, gas -holders, and other iron and rough wood-work. They are supplied in seven -colors, viz.: brown, red, yellow, gray, buff, slate, and cream-white. One -gallon will cover about 400 square feet, one coat.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="center larger">STRICTLY PURE COLORS</p> - -<p class="center">Ground in Refined Oil.</p> - -<p>They are intended to take the place of the ordinary “colors in oil” for -general house decoration. They are ground in refined Calcutta linseed -oil, to a fineness not excelled by the best imported “artists colors.”</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="center larger">ASBESTOS BUILDING FELTS</p> - -<p><i>For interlining frame buildings, floors, etc. Are wind, dust and fire-proof.</i></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="center larger">H. W. Johns Manufacturing Co.<br /> -<span class="smaller">87 MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK.</span></p> - -<p class="center">SOLE MANUFACTURERS OF</p> - -<p><i>H. W. Johns’ Genuine Asbestos Liquid Paints, Roof Paints, Roofing, Steam -Pipe and Boiler Coverings, Fire proof Coatings, Cements, etc.</i></p> - -<p class="center">DESCRIPTIVE PRICE LIST AND SAMPLE FREE.</p> - -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COTTAGES ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg™ electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG™ -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for an eBook, except by following -the terms of the trademark license, including paying royalties for use -of the Project Gutenberg trademark. If you do not charge anything for -copies of this eBook, complying with the trademark license is very -easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose such as creation -of derivative works, reports, performances and research. Project -Gutenberg eBooks may be modified and printed and given away—you may -do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks not protected -by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the trademark -license, especially commercial redistribution. -</div> - -<div style='margin-top:1em; font-size:1.1em; text-align:center'>START: FULL LICENSE</div> -<div style='text-align:center;font-size:0.9em'>THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE</div> -<div style='text-align:center;font-size:0.9em'>PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -To protect the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase “Project -Gutenberg”), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg™ License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; font-size:1.1em; margin:1em 0; font-weight:bold'> -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg™ -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg™ electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person -or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.B. “Project Gutenberg” is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg™ electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg™ electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg™ -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation (“the -Foundation” or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg™ -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg™ name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg™ License when -you share it without charge with others. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg™ work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country other than the United States. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg™ License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg™ work (any work -on which the phrase “Project Gutenberg” appears, or with which the -phrase “Project Gutenberg” is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: -</div> - -<blockquote> - <div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most - other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions - whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms - of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online - at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you - are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws - of the country where you are located before using this eBook. - </div> -</blockquote> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase “Project -Gutenberg” associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg™ -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg™ License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg™ -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg™. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg™ License. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg™ work in a format -other than “Plain Vanilla ASCII” or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg™ website -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original “Plain -Vanilla ASCII” or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg™ License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg™ works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works -provided that: -</div> - -<div style='margin-left:0.7em;'> - <div style='text-indent:-0.7em'> - • You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg™ works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg™ trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, “Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation.” - </div> - - <div style='text-indent:-0.7em'> - • You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg™ - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg™ - works. - </div> - - <div style='text-indent:-0.7em'> - • You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - </div> - - <div style='text-indent:-0.7em'> - • You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg™ works. - </div> -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg™ electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the manager of -the Project Gutenberg™ trademark. Contact the Foundation as set -forth in Section 3 below. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.F. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg™ collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg™ -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain “Defects,” such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the “Right -of Replacement or Refund” described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg™ trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg™ electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you ‘AS-IS’, WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg™ -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg™ work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg™ work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; font-size:1.1em; margin:1em 0; font-weight:bold'> -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg™ -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Project Gutenberg™ is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg™’s -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg™ collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg™ and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; font-size:1.1em; margin:1em 0; font-weight:bold'> -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non-profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation’s EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state’s laws. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -The Foundation’s business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, -Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up -to date contact information can be found at the Foundation’s website -and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact -</div> - -<div style='display:block; font-size:1.1em; margin:1em 0; font-weight:bold'> -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Project Gutenberg™ depends upon and cannot survive without widespread -public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine-readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular state -visit <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/donate/">www.gutenberg.org/donate</a>. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Please check the Project Gutenberg web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate -</div> - -<div style='display:block; font-size:1.1em; margin:1em 0; font-weight:bold'> -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg™ electronic works -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg™ concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg™ eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Project Gutenberg™ eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Most people start at our website which has the main PG search -facility: <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This website includes information about Project Gutenberg™, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. -</div> - -</div> -</body> -</html> diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-1.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-1.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 7c725d4..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-1.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-10.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-10.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index d1a2f78..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-10.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-11.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-11.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 702265b..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-11.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-12.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-12.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ca31b30..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-12.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-13.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-13.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index b557ffd..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-13.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-14.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-14.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index cdf3fba..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-14.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-15.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-15.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 5f0978f..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-15.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-2.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-2.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9dff05a..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-2.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-3.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-3.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 0097920..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-3.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-4.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-4.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index eedb02a..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-4.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-5.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-5.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ee901a9..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-5.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-6.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-6.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 3032c25..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-6.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-7.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-7.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 8c7aabc..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-7.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-8.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-8.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index c9f542c..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-8.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-9.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-9.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 608a44d..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/ad-img-9.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/cover.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 1c7385e..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/cover.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/footer.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/footer.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index d2984c9..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/footer.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/frontispiece-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/frontispiece-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 45a3055..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/frontispiece-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/frontispiece.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/frontispiece.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 0c2e80f..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/frontispiece.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/header-advertisements.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/header-advertisements.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 3937a1c..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/header-advertisements.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/header-plates.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/header-plates.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 6e6ccf2..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/header-plates.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/header-preface.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/header-preface.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 80591af..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/header-preface.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/header-sanitary.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/header-sanitary.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 5d473b9..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/header-sanitary.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/header-title.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/header-title.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index bde2999..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/header-title.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate1-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate1-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 03998f7..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate1-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate1.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate1.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 78d623b..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate1.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate10-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate10-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 35df1dd..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate10-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate10.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate10.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index dbc47f5..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate10.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate11-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate11-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 6839409..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate11-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate11.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate11.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 0c31444..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate11.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate12-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate12-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index f2ce9eb..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate12-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate12.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate12.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 193d9f4..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate12.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate13-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate13-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index d681320..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate13-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate13.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate13.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index ba8257c..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate13.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate14-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate14-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 23ad2e4..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate14-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate14.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate14.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9ebadab..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate14.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate15-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate15-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 81184da..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate15-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate15.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate15.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a676e10..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate15.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate16-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate16-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index cb31ac1..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate16-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate16.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate16.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 54ca834..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate16.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate17-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate17-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 49c5d0b..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate17-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate17.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate17.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index f80f678..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate17.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate18-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate18-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9ebf84f..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate18-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate18.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate18.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 966cf04..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate18.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate19-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate19-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index f2b8bfa..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate19-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate19.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate19.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a535090..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate19.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate2-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate2-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index cb3beb4..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate2-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate2.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate2.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 051d3b1..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate2.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate20-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate20-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 1523c53..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate20-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate20.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate20.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 5f5df68..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate20.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate21-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate21-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e684288..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate21-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate21.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate21.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 2c07b4b..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate21.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate22-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate22-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9f0c8bb..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate22-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate22.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate22.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 0b4ed04..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate22.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate23-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate23-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 69126c2..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate23-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate23.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate23.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 2cde5ea..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate23.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate3-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate3-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9f3a930..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate3-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate3.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate3.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 4dee442..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate3.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate4-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate4-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 429a1b8..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate4-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate4.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate4.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 76cb1d8..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate4.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate5-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate5-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e39dde6..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate5-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate5.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate5.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 1cff8c5..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate5.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate6-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate6-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 84d9114..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate6-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate6.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate6.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index d4f61cb..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate6.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate7-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate7-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 26e59a7..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate7-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate7.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate7.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 5612c4f..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate7.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate8-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate8-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 716b659..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate8-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate8.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate8.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 342e78a..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate8.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate9-small.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate9-small.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 969022e..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate9-small.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/67922-h/images/plate9.jpg b/old/67922-h/images/plate9.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 8698abf..0000000 --- a/old/67922-h/images/plate9.jpg +++ /dev/null |
