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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Drinks of the World</p> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: James Mew and John Ashton</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: November 14, 2021 [eBook #66735]</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Character set encoding: UTF-8</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net</div> - -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DRINKS OF THE WORLD ***</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/frontispiece.jpg" width="500" height="550" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">“DRINKS”</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<h1><span class="smcap">Drinks<br /> -<span class="smaller">of the</span><br /> -World</span></h1> - -<p class="titlepage larger"><span class="smaller">BY</span><br /> -JAMES MEW,<br /> -<span class="smaller">Author of “Types from Spanish Story,” &c., &c.,<br /> -AND</span><br /> -JOHN ASHTON,<br /> -<span class="smaller">Author of “Social Life in the Reign of Queen Anne,” &c., &c.</span></p> - -<p class="titlepage"><i>ONE HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS.</i></p> - -<p class="titlepage">1892.</p> - -<p class="center"><i>LONDON:</i><br /> -<i>The Leadenhall Press, 50, Leadenhall Street, E.C.<br /> -Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent & Co., Ltd.</i></p> - -<p class="center"><i>NEW YORK: Scribner & Welford.</i></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p>“Ingeniosa Sitis.”—<i>Martial, Epig.</i> xiv. 117.</p> - -<p>“J’y ai songé comme un autre, et je suis tenté de mettre -l’appétence des liqueurs fermentées, qui n’est pas connue des -animaux, à côté de l’inquiétude de l’avenir, qui leur est étrangère, -et de les regarder l’une et l’autre comme des attributs distinctifs du -chef-d’œuvre de la dernière révolution sublunaire.”—<i>Brillat-Savarin, -Physiologie du Goût, Medit.</i> 9.</p> - -<p>“Ac si quis diligenter reputet, in nulla parte operosior vita -est, ceu non saluberrimum ad potum aquæ liquorem natura dederit, -quo cætera omnia animantia utuntur.”—<i>Pliny, Nat. Hist.</i> -xiv. 28.</p> - -<p>“Wine that maketh glad the heart of man.”—<i>Ps.</i> civ. 15.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_1"></a>[1]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="nobreak">INDEX.</h2> - -</div> - -<ul> - -<li class="ifrst">Absinthe, <a href="#Page_162">162-166</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Adulteration of Beer, <a href="#Page_199">199</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Aërated Drinks, <a href="#Page_324">324</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Waters, Introduction of, <a href="#Page_332">332</a></li> - -<li class="indx">African Beers, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Wines, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Aix-la-Chapelle Council Decree, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Aizen, <a href="#Page_355">355</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Alcohol in Wine, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Effects on different Races, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Origin of the word, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Alcoholic strength of Gin, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ale Conners, <a href="#Page_200">200-220</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Syllabub, <a href="#Page_335">335</a></li> -<li class="isub1">and Wine drinkers, social difference in, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Early mention of, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Origin of the word, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Various, <a href="#Page_226">226</a></li> - -<li class="indx">American Beers, <a href="#Page_201">201</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Drinks, <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Terms, explanation of, <a href="#Page_180">180-181</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Wines, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Aminean Wine, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Analysis of Tea, <a href="#Page_246">246</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Anglo-Saxon Liquors, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Animals’ Blood, <a href="#Page_355">355</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Anisette, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Aqua Vite Composita recipe, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Early esteem of, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Arrack, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_343">343</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Araffer, <a href="#Page_359">359</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Artificial Wines, <a href="#Page_157">157</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Assur-ba-ni-pal’s List of Wines, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Assyrian Wines, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Athenæus on Egyptian Wines, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Athol-brose, <a href="#Page_148">148</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Auld Man’s Milk, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Augustus’ favourite Drink, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Australian Wines, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Austrian Beers, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Bacon’s value of Cider, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Baga Wine, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ballston Waters, <a href="#Page_353">353</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Barbot’s description of Kola, <a href="#Page_296">296</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Barley Wine, <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bastard Wine, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bavarian Beers, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Beer, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Adulteration of, <a href="#Page_199">199</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Antiquity of, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Belgian, <a href="#Page_202">202</a></li> -<li class="isub1">English, The Metropolis of, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li> -<li class="isub1">English, Popularity of, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Egyptian, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Manufacture of, <a href="#Page_195">195-196</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Origin of the word, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> -<li class="isub1">The Inventor of, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Various, <a href="#Page_226">226</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Beowulf, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Besdon, <a href="#Page_360">360</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Biliousness, Liqueur Specific for, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Black Jack Jug, <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bon Gaultier Ballads, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bordeaux Wines, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Borneo Beers, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bottled Beer, origin of, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bottling, Italian mode of, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Brandy, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></li> -<li class="isub1">German Legend, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Origin of the name, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> -<li class="isub1">and Port, <a href="#Page_361">361</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Braket, <a href="#Page_352">352</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Brewers’ Company, <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Brick Tea, <a href="#Page_243">243</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bull, <a href="#Page_359">359</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Burgundy, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Burns, Robert, <a href="#Page_148">148</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Burton (Robert) and Coffee, <a href="#Page_306">306</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Burton-on-Trent, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Burton Brewery, early mention of, <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Cæcuban Wine, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Caffeine, <a href="#Page_317">317</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Capnian Wine, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Canaries Wines, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Caravan Tea, <a href="#Page_243">243</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cassis, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Catherine de Medicis, <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cattia Edulis, <a href="#Page_298">298</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ceylon Tea, <a href="#Page_243">243</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Champagne Country, The, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Champagne Cyder, <a href="#Page_328">328</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Champagne Manufacture, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chemicals used in non-alcoholic Drinks, <a href="#Page_329">329</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chinese Beers, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Tea, Substitutes for, <a href="#Page_298">298</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Tea Trade, <a href="#Page_243">243</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Natural Beverage, <a href="#Page_237">237</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chocolate, <a href="#Page_323">323</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cider, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> -<li class="isub1">The finest, where made, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Claret, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Clergy Drinking, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cobbler, The, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Coca, <a href="#Page_279">279</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Cultivation of, <a href="#Page_291">291</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Early mention of, <a href="#Page_280">280</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Leaf, Medicinal qualities, <a href="#Page_294">294</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cocaine, <a href="#Page_295">295</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cocks’ Wines of Bordeaux, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cocktail, <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cocoa, <a href="#Page_320">320</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Substitute, <a href="#Page_323">323</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Tax, <a href="#Page_322">322</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cocoa, Its Manufacture, <a href="#Page_321">321</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Where grown, <a href="#Page_320">320</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Coffee, <a href="#Page_303">303</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Adulteration, <a href="#Page_319">319</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Legend about, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>, <a href="#Page_305">305</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Species of, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>, <a href="#Page_319">319</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Prosecution for the Sale of, <a href="#Page_309">309</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Value of different Species, <a href="#Page_316">316</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Its Growth, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>, <a href="#Page_304">304</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Its Medicinal qualities, <a href="#Page_308">308</a></li> -<li class="isub1">How to make, <a href="#Page_318">318</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Where most drunk, <a href="#Page_303">303</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Coffee-Leaf Tea, <a href="#Page_300">300</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Coffee and Liqueur, <a href="#Page_159">159</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Coffee Houses, a Poem on, <a href="#Page_312">312</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Rules and Orders of, <a href="#Page_311">311</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Popularity of, <a href="#Page_309">309</a></li> -<li class="isub1">The first, <a href="#Page_306">306</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Columella’s Wine Receipt, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Continental Liqueurs, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cooked Wine, <a href="#Page_157">157</a></li> - -<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2"></a>[2]</span><i>Cordial Makers’ Guide</i>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cordials (Non-Alcoholic), <a href="#Page_331">331</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cornish Drink, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Corsican Wines, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cowley’s Poem on Cuca, <a href="#Page_288">288</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cow’s Milk, Formula for Fermenting, <a href="#Page_341">341</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cream Syrup, <a href="#Page_330">330</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Crème de Noyau, <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Croker’s Irishman and Whiskey, <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Crusta, The, <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cuca, <a href="#Page_279">279</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Curaçoa, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Curious Records, <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cuttach, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Danish Drinking Vessels, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dantzig Liqueurs, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Date Coffee, <a href="#Page_319">319</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Definition of Wine, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Distilling Brandy, Mode of, <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Drinking Cups, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> -<li class="isub2">Mode of Keeping, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Health, Origin of, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Horns, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Vessels, <a href="#Page_213">213-214-216</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Drinks, Pliny’s List of, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Drunkards, Punishment of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Drunkenness, Common Cause of, <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Cure for, <a href="#Page_298">298</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Duty on Gin, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Eau Clairette de Framboises, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Chamberri, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> -<li class="isub1">de Cerises, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ecbolada, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Egg-nogg, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Egyptian Process of Wine Making, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Egyptians’ Early Use of Wine, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Eichhoff, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Elixir, Derivation of, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> - -<li class="indx">English National Drink, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Wines, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Falernian Wine, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fall of Madame Geneva, <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fathers of Brandies, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fenkål, <a href="#Page_361">361</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fermenting Cow’s Milk, <a href="#Page_341">341</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ferrintosh, <a href="#Page_148">148</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Flannel, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Flip, <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li> - -<li class="indx">“Food of the Gods”, <a href="#Page_320">320</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Francatelli’s Service of Wine, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> -<li class="isub1">on Gin Sling, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li> - -<li class="indx">French Beers, <a href="#Page_228">228</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Liqueurs, <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Wines, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Fruit Syrups, <a href="#Page_330">330</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Garapa, <a href="#Page_360">360</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Garway’s Tea Advertisement, <a href="#Page_253">253</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Garoe, <a href="#Page_349">349</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gartmore Estate Tea, Sale of, <a href="#Page_244">244</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Galazyene, <a href="#Page_340">340</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gallebodde Estate Tea, Sale of, <a href="#Page_244">244</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ganges Water, <a href="#Page_350">350</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Generous Wines, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Geneva (Gin), <a href="#Page_128">128</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gerard and the Use of Cider, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> - -<li class="indx">German Beers, <a href="#Page_228">228</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Liqueurs, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Wines, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ghee, <a href="#Page_354">354</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gill-house, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gin, <a href="#Page_128">128</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Lane, <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Sling, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Alcoholic Strength of, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ginger Ale, <a href="#Page_327">327</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gingerade, <a href="#Page_326">326</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ginger Beer, <a href="#Page_324">324</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Recipes (old & new fashions), <a href="#Page_324">324-325</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Glenlivet, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Goethe’s Opinion of Wines, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gongonha, <a href="#Page_277">277</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gout, Accredited Agent, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Grecian Wines, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Dessert Wines, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Process of Wine Making, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Gregory of Tours, <a href="#Page_157">157</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Greybeard Jug, <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Grieve (Dr. J.) and Koumiss, <a href="#Page_339">339</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Guru, <a href="#Page_297">297</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Hanway’s Essay on Tea, <a href="#Page_266">266</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Harrison’s (Gen.) Favourite Beverage, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Haynau (Gen.) & Brewer’s Draymen, <a href="#Page_225">225</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Heather Beer, <a href="#Page_227">227</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hebrews and Wines, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Heidelberg Tun, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Helbon, The Wine of, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Herb Wine, <a href="#Page_157">157</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hervey (Lord) and Drunkenness, <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hippocras, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hippocrates and the Virtue of Wines, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hittites and Wines, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hock, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hogarth’s Gin Lane, <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Holy Tree, The, <a href="#Page_349">349-350</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Homer’s Wine of Thrace, &c., <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hunding, King, Death of, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hungarian Wines, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hydromel, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Hypoteques, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Indian Beers, <a href="#Page_231">231</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Tea, <a href="#Page_245">245</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Irish Whiskey, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Italian Mode of Bottling, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Wines, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Japanese Beers, <a href="#Page_232">232</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Jekyll, Sir Joseph, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Jerry Thomas, <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Jewish Prayers respecting Wine, <a href="#Page_345">345</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Johnson (Dr.) on Tea, <a href="#Page_267">267</a></li> -<li class="isub1">The Gin Act, <a href="#Page_137">137</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Different Liquors, <a href="#Page_124">124-267</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Julep, <a href="#Page_181">181-182</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Kef, <a href="#Page_355">355</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kirsch, <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kola, <a href="#Page_296">296</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Koumiss, <a href="#Page_336">336-355</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Its Curative Properties, <a href="#Page_339">339</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Its Manufacture, <a href="#Page_341">341-342</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kümmel, <a href="#Page_165">165-174</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kvas, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Ladakh Beer, <a href="#Page_360">360</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ladies’ Tippling, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lamb Wine, <a href="#Page_356">356</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lapps, The Common Drink of, <a href="#Page_360">360</a></li> - -<li class="indx">L’Eau Clairette de Groseilles, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Grenade, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Coings, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Leather Bottel, The, <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li> - -<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3"></a>[3]</span>Leake’s Description of Grecian Wines, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Leban, <a href="#Page_355">355</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lemonade, <a href="#Page_327">327</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Liqueurs, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li> -<li class="isub1">(Non-Alcoholic), <a href="#Page_331">331</a></li> - -<li class="indx"><i>Liqueur Makers’ Guide</i>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lovage Receipt, <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Madeira Wines, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mahogany Drink, <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Maimonides, <a href="#Page_347">347</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Makasso, <a href="#Page_297">297</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Malmsey Wine, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Maraschino, <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Markham on the Coca Leaf, <a href="#Page_291">291</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Marryatt, Capt., and Mint Julep, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Maté, <a href="#Page_272">272</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Production of, <a href="#Page_273">273</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Maturing Spirits, New Process, <a href="#Page_151">151</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mead, <a href="#Page_41">41-48</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mead-hall, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mead-horns, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Medicinal Quality of Tea, <a href="#Page_255">255</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Médoc Wines, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Melo-cacti, <a href="#Page_351">351</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Methylated Spirits, <a href="#Page_362">362</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Metropolis of English Beer, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Milk, <a href="#Page_334">334</a>, <a href="#Page_354">354</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Beer, <a href="#Page_355">355</a></li> -<li class="isub1">As a Beverage, Disadvantages of, <a href="#Page_334">334</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mineral Waters, <a href="#Page_331">331</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mint Julep, <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Misson on Coffee Houses, <a href="#Page_310">310</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Monastical Liqueurs, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Montaigne, <a href="#Page_159">159</a></li> - -<li class="indx"><i>Moonshine</i> on American Drinks, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Morat, <a href="#Page_45">45-158</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Morewood and Birch Wine, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Motteux’s Poem in praise of Tea, <a href="#Page_264">264</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mulder, Professor, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mulls, <a href="#Page_181">181-183</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Murrey, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Murrhine Cups, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mushroom Drink, <a href="#Page_351">351</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Nantz, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Negus, <a href="#Page_181">181-185</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Nile Water, <a href="#Page_350">350</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Nogg, <a href="#Page_181">181-185</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Non-Alcoholic Cordials & Liqueurs, <a href="#Page_331">331</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Northern Love of Drinking, <a href="#Page_47">47-50</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Noyau, <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Olaus Magnus, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Old Falernian, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Old Tom, Origin of, <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ombulbul, <a href="#Page_359">359</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Omeire, <a href="#Page_358">358</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Oporto Wine Co., <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Osiris, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Paraguay Tea, <a href="#Page_272">272</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Parfait Amour, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pepys, <a href="#Page_209">209-260</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pereira, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Perry, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Persian Wines, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Perlin’s description of English society, <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Peter’s Pence, <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pigment, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pliny’s List of Drinks, <a href="#Page_33">33-197-349-353</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Poem on Tea, <a href="#Page_261">261</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Polo (Marco), <a href="#Page_339">339-355-356-357</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pombe, <a href="#Page_361">361</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pomeranzen, <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pope, <a href="#Page_129">129-130</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Popularity of Tea, <a href="#Page_237">237-238</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Populo, <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Port Wines, <a href="#Page_99">99-100</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Portuguese Wines, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Private Brewing, <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Procope, <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Psithian Wine, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ptisana, <a href="#Page_351">351</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pulque, <a href="#Page_359">359</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pulteney’s Duty on Gin, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Punch, <a href="#Page_181">181-185-187</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Punishment of Drunkards, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pusey Horn, The, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Raspail, <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ratafia, <a href="#Page_166">166-175-176</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Recipes (Drinks):—</li> -<li class="isub1">A Yard of Flannel, <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Archbishop, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Black Stripe, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Blue Blazer, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Bimbo Punch, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Bishop, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Bottled Velvet, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Champagne Cyder, <a href="#Page_328">328</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Cardinal, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Ginger Ale, <a href="#Page_327">327</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Gingerade, <a href="#Page_326">326</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Ginger Beer, <a href="#Page_324">324-325</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Lemonade, <a href="#Page_327">327</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Locomotive, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Pope, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Pousse l’Amour, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Rumfustian, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Sleeper, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Stone Fence, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> -<li class="isub1">White Tiger’s Milk, <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Recipes (Liqueurs):—</li> -<li class="isub1">Amiable Vainqueur, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Eau Aerienne, <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li> -<li class="isub2">d’Amour, <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li> -<li class="isub2">de Pucelle, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> -<li class="isub2">de Scubac, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> -<li class="isub2">de Sultane Zoraide, <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li> -<li class="isub2">de Yalpa, <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li> -<li class="isub2">Divine, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> -<li class="isub2">Miraculeuse, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> -<li class="isub2">Nuptiale, <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Elixir de Garus, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Guignolet d’Angers, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Huile des Jeunes Mariés, <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Vespetro, <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Recipe for Cream Syrup, <a href="#Page_330">330</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Fermenting Cow’s Milk, <a href="#Page_341">341</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Redding, Cyrus, <a href="#Page_60">60-83-85-94-107</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Redi’s <i>Bacco in Toscana</i>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Reis’ Classification of Wines, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Reland, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rhine Wines, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rhodes, Father, on Tay, <a href="#Page_249">249</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Roman Wines, <a href="#Page_30">30-32</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Roots’ Cuca Cocoa, <a href="#Page_293">293</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rosee’s Handbill on Coffee, <a href="#Page_307">307</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rossolio, <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Roussillon, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rubruquis and Koumiss, <a href="#Page_339">339</a></li> -<li class="isub1">and Rice Wine, <a href="#Page_357">357</a></li> - -<li class="indx"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4"></a>[4]</span>Rice Wine, <a href="#Page_357">357</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rules & Orders of the Coffee House, <a href="#Page_311">311</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Rum, <a href="#Page_153">153</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Russian Beers, <a href="#Page_233">233</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Wines, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Sabzi, <a href="#Page_355">355</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sacred Wine Tree, <a href="#Page_356">356</a></li> - -<li class="indx">St. Vincent and the Holy Tree, <a href="#Page_349">349</a>, <a href="#Page_350">350</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Saguer, <a href="#Page_357">357</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Samchou, <a href="#Page_361">361</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sangaree, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Saprian Wine, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Saratoga Water, <a href="#Page_354">354</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Säure, <a href="#Page_355">355</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sbitena, <a href="#Page_358">358</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Scandal and the Tea Table, <a href="#Page_263">263</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Schiedam, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Scotch Whiskey, <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Earliest Account of, <a href="#Page_148">148</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sea Water Wine, <a href="#Page_349">349</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Setine Wine, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Shandy-gaff, <a href="#Page_324">324</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sherries, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Shrub, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sicilian Wines, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Silent Spirit, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sir John Barleycorn, <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Slemp, <a href="#Page_336">336</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sling, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sloe Poison, <a href="#Page_271">271</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Small Still Whiskey, <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Smash, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Social difference in Ale & Wine drinkers, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Soda Water, <a href="#Page_332">332</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spanish Wines, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sparkling Wines, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spirit Beading, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Spruce Beer, <a href="#Page_233">233</a></li> - -<li class="indx">“Still Room”, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Strabo, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Substitutes for Chinese Tea, <a href="#Page_298">298</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Surrentine Wine, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Swedish Beers, <a href="#Page_233">233</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Drinking Vessels, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Swiss Wines, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Syllabub, <a href="#Page_335">335</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Syra, <a href="#Page_355">355</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Syrups, List of, <a href="#Page_330">330</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Table Wines, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Taidge, <a href="#Page_360">360</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tartary Beers, <a href="#Page_234">234</a></li> - -<li class="indx"><i>Tatler</i>, The, <a href="#Page_262">262</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tay, <a href="#Page_250">250</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tea Advertisement, Garway’s, <a href="#Page_253">253</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tea, <a href="#Page_237">237</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Duty, <a href="#Page_238">238</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Houses, <a href="#Page_237">237</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Statistics, <a href="#Page_245">245</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Trade, Centre of, <a href="#Page_238">238</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Plant, Growth of, <a href="#Page_241">241</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Value in time of Queen Anne, <a href="#Page_262">262</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Analysis of, <a href="#Page_246">246</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Earliest mention of, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Early Duty on, <a href="#Page_253">253</a></li> -<li class="isub1">High Prices for, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>, <a href="#Page_245">245</a></li> -<li class="isub1">How to Make, <a href="#Page_268">268</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Introduction to England, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>, <a href="#Page_260">260</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Largest Consumers of, <a href="#Page_239">239</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Legendary Origin of, <a href="#Page_239">239</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Medicinal Qualities of, <a href="#Page_255">255</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Poems on, <a href="#Page_261">261-263-264-265</a></li> -<li class="isub1">The Finest, <a href="#Page_243">243</a></li> -<li class="isub1">When First Used, <a href="#Page_240">240</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Where Grown, <a href="#Page_239">239</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Teas, Various, <a href="#Page_242">242</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Thales, <a href="#Page_348">348</a></li> - -<li class="indx">The Brown Jug, <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Theine, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>, <a href="#Page_296">296</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Theobromine, <a href="#Page_322">322</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Thudicum, Dr., <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Toak, <a href="#Page_359">359</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Toast Water, <a href="#Page_351">351</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Toby Philpot, <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Toddy, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tokay Wine, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Toupare, <a href="#Page_359">359</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Trade Rum, <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Transition Wines, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tree Water, <a href="#Page_349">349</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tschudi on the Cuca Plant, <a href="#Page_289">289</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Ulph’s Horn, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Usquebath, Recipe for, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Varieties of Wines, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vega’s Description of Cuca, <a href="#Page_282">282</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vermuth, <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Village Ale-house, The, <a href="#Page_225">225</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Villeneuve, <a href="#Page_161">161-163-164</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vine, Cultivation of, <a href="#Page_39">39-99</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vine’s Treatise on Home-made Wines, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vinegar, <a href="#Page_351">351</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vizitelly and White Wines, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vontaca, <a href="#Page_359">359</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Waller’s Poem on Tea, <a href="#Page_261">261</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Walnut Liquor, <a href="#Page_357">357</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Walpole, Sir Robert, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ward, Edward, and Ladies’ Drinking, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ward’s Dialogue: Claret & Darby Ale, <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Warm Water, <a href="#Page_354">354</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Wassail Song, <a href="#Page_206">206</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Water, <a href="#Page_348">348</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Water Melon Drink, <a href="#Page_358">358</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Water of Life, <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Whiskey, <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Distillation, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Manufacture, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Maturing, <a href="#Page_151">151</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Duty on, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Whistling Shop, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li> - -<li class="indx">White Ratafias, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> - -<li class="indx">White Wines of the Médoc District, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Wine Making by Greeks & Romans, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Vessels, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Alcohol in, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Definition of, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Distinguishing Qualities, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Origin of, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Oldest Records of, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Egyptian Process of, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Varieties of, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> -<li class="isub1">and Beer, Merits of, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Wines, Assyrian, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Francatelli’s Service of, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Goethe’s Opinion of, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> -<li class="isub1">Reis’ Classification of, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Wolff’s Description of Kirsch, <a href="#Page_178">178</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Women’s Tears, <a href="#Page_347">347</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Youourt, <a href="#Page_355">355</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ywera, <a href="#Page_358">358</a></li> - -<li class="ifrst">Zythum, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> - -</ul> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5"></a>[5]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 460px;"> -<img src="images/dedication.jpg" width="460" height="700" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">“DRINKS”</p> -<p class="caption">Dedicated to those who know how to use -and thankfully enjoy the good things so bountifully provided -by Dame Nature.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6"></a>[6]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_7"></a>[7]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header1.jpg" width="500" height="500" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Introduction">Introduction.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>From the Cradle -to the Grave we -need <span class="smcap">Drink</span>, and we -have not far to look for -the reason, when we -consider that at least -seventy per cent. of the -human body is composed -of water, to compensate -the perpetual -waste of which, a fresh supply is, of course, absolutely -necessary. This is taken with our food (all -solid nutriment containing some water), and by the -drink we consume. But, as the largest constituent -part of the body is fluid, so, naturally, its waste is -larger than that of the solid; this fluid waste being -enormous. Besides the natural losses, every breath -we exhale is heavily laden with moisture, as breathing -on a cold polished surface, or a cold day by condensing -the breath, will show; whilst the twenty-eight -miles of tubing disposed over the surface of the -human body will evaporate, <i>invisibly</i>, two or three -pounds of water daily. Of course, in very hot<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8"></a>[8]</span> -weather, or after extreme exertion, this perspiration is -much more, and is visible.</p> - -<p>To remedy this loss we must <span class="smcap">drink</span>, as a stoppage -of the supply would kill sooner than if solid food were -withheld, for then the body would, for a time, live upon -its own substance, as in the cases of the fasting men of -the last two years; but few people can live longer than -three days without drinking, and death by thirst is -looked upon as one of the most cruel forms of dissolution. -To palliate thirst, however, it is not absolutely -necessary to drink, as a moist atmosphere or copious -bathing will do much towards allaying it,—the one by -introducing moisture into the system by means of the -lungs, the other through the medium of the skin.</p> - -<p>Thirst is the notice given by Nature that liquid -aliment is required to repair the waste of the body; -and, as in the case of Hunger, she has kindly provided -that supplying the deficiency shall be a pleasant sensation, -and one calculated to call up a feeling of gratitude -for the means of allaying the want. Indeed, no -man knows the real pleasures of eating and drinking, -until he has suffered both hunger and thirst.</p> - -<p>Water, as a means of slaking man’s thirst, has been -provided for him in abundance from the time of -Father Adam, whose “Ale” is so vaunted by abstainers -from alcoholic liquors. But Water, unless -charged with Carbonic Acid gas, or containing some -mineral in solution, is considered by some, as a constant -drink, rather vapid; and Man, as he became -civilized, has made himself other beverages, more or -less tasty, and provocative of excess, and also more or<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_9"></a>[9]</span> -less deleterious to his internal economy. The juice of -luscious fruits was expressed, the vine was made to -give up its life blood; and, probably through accident, -alcoholic fermentation was discovered, and a new zest -was given to drinking. A good servant, Alcohol is a -bad master; but that it satisfies a widely felt craving, -probably induced by civilization, is certain, for most -savage tribes, emerging from their primitive and -natural state, manufacture drinks from divers vegetable -substances, more or less alcoholic.</p> - -<p>The present volume is intended for that class of the -public which is known as “the general reader”; and -its object is to interest rather than to inform. Therefore -it deals at no great length with what may be -termed the <i>caviare</i> of the subject, as, for instance, the -varied opinions of the medical faculty with respect to -the hygienic value of drinks, their supposed uses in -health and disease, and their chemical constituents, or -analyses. Nor is the question of price discussed, nor -long lists of vineyard proprietors given, nor the names -of the brewers, nor the number of casks of beer -brewed. In short, as few statistics have been introduced -as possible. In deference to a maxim not -always remembered in books on beverages, “<i>De -gustibus non est disputandum</i>,” or its English equivalent, -abhorred of Chesterfield, “What is one man’s -meat is another man’s poison,” the verdicts of enthusiasts -and vendors have been, except in rare instances, -alike rejected.</p> - -<p>Nor has very much been said on the inviting topic -of adulteration. It would be almost cruel to disturb<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10"></a>[10]</span> -the credulity of the good people who drink and pay -for gooseberry as Champagne, or <i>Val de peñas</i> as -curious old Port. It is a pretty comedy to watch the -<i>soi-disant</i> connoisseur drinking a wine fully accredited -with crust, out of a bottle ornamented with fungus and -cobwebs of proper consistency—a wine flavoured with -<i>essence</i> at so much a pound, and stained with <i>colour</i><a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> -at so much per gallon. There is no need to proclaim -upon the housetops the constituents of Hamburg -sherry, nor how the best rum is flavoured with “R.E.,” -or brandy with “Caramel” or “Cognacine.”</p> - -<p>We have generally avoided the profane use of trade -or professional jargon, too often the outcome of ignorance, -pretence, and affectation, such as “full,” “fruity,” -“smooth on palate,” “round in the mouth,” “full of -body,” “wing,” “character,” etc.; nor have we touched, -or desired to touch, on the influence of alcohol on -man’s social or other well-being. Peter the Hermit is -fully represented already, and we have no mission to -call upon our fellow-countrymen to “rise to the dignity -of manhood,” and never touch another glass of -Madeira.</p> - -<p>The authors have followed the example of the illustrious -Molière in taking their matter wherever they -could find it. The information contained in this work -is derived either from other books, oral information, -or personal experience. “The sun robs the sea, the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11"></a>[11]</span> -moon robs the sun, the sea robs the moon,” says -Timon of Athens, repeating Anacreon, who adds -that the earth robs them all. So preceding authors -are indebted to one another, and the present volume -to them all. It has been written, it is hoped, without -bias or prejudice of any kind; but, as the drinks containing -Alcohol are many more than those in which -it is absent, more have been mentioned. That a full -record of all drinks should appear, is impossible; nor -could any critic expect it; but an attempt has been -made to give a fairly full list, and to render it as -pleasant reading as the subject admits.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12"></a>[12]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus1.jpg" width="500" height="650" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13"></a>[13]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header2.jpg" width="500" height="275" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="THE_DRINKS_OF_ANTIQUITY">THE DRINKS OF ANTIQUITY.</h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Egypt</span>: Method of Wine-Making—Early Wines—Names of Wines—Ladies -and Wine—Beer, etc. <span class="smcap">Assyria</span>: List of Assur-ba-ni-pal’s -Wines—Method of Drinking—Different Sorts of Wine. -<span class="smcap">Hittite</span>: Two Ladies Drinking—Their Appreciation of Wine—The -Hittite Bacchus. <span class="smcap">Judea</span>: Mention of Wines in the Old -Testament—Wine as an Article of Commerce—Mixed Wines—Wine -Vessels.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Has any man been bold enough to attempt to -fix upon the discoverer of Wine? Not to our -knowledge. Nor can a date be even hazarded as to its -introduction. It was so good a thing, that we may be -sure that men very soon came to know its revivifying -effects. We do know this: that the oldest records of -which we have any cognisance, those of the Egyptians -(who were in a high state of civilization and -culture when the Hebrews were semi-barbarous -nomads), show us that they had wine, and used it in a -most refined manner, as we see by the headpiece to -this chapter. Here a father is nursing his child, who<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14"></a>[14]</span> -invites him to smell a lotus flower, another blossom of -which his mother is showing him. An attendant -proffers wine in bowls wreathed with flowers, and -another is at hand with a bowl possibly of water, and -a napkin. This wreathing the bowls with flowers -shows how highly they esteemed the “good creature,” -and, also, that they were then at least as civilized as -the later Greeks and Romans, who followed the same -practice.</p> - -<p>We have the Egyptian pictures showing the whole -process of wine-making. We see their vines very -carefully trained in bowers, or in avenues, formed by -columns and rafters; their vineyards were walled in, -and frequently had a reservoir of water within their -precincts, together with a building which contained a -winepress; whilst boys frightened the birds away -with slings and stones, and cries. The grapes, when -gathered, were put into deep wicker baskets, which -men carried either on their heads or shoulders, or -slung upon a yoke, to the winepress, where the wine -was squeezed out of a bag by means of two poles -turned in contrary directions, an earthen pan receiving -the juice. But they also had large presses, in which -they trod the fruit with their naked feet, supporting -themselves by ropes suspended from the roof.</p> - -<p>The grape juice having fermented, it was put into -earthen jars, resembling the Roman <i>amphoræ</i>, which -were closed with a lid covered with pitch, clay, mortar -or gypsum, and sealed, after which they were removed -to the storehouse, and there placed upright. The -Egyptians had a peculiar habit, which used also to be<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_15"></a>[15]</span> -general in Italy and Greece, and now obtains in the -islands of the Archipelago, of putting a certain quantity -of resin or bitumen at the bottom of the amphora -before pouring in the wine. This was supposed to -preserve it, but it was also added to give it a flavour—a -taste probably acquired from their having been used -to wine skins, instead of jars, and having employed -resins to preserve the skins.</p> - -<p>The Egyptians had several kinds of wine, even as -early as the fourth dynasty (above 6000 years ago, -according to Mariette), when four kinds of wine, at -least, were known. Pliny and Horace say that the -wine of Mareotis was most esteemed. The soil, -which lay beyond the reach of the alluvial deposits, -suited the vine, and extensive remains of vineyards -near the Qasr Karóon, still found, show whence the -ancient Egyptians obtained their wines. Athenæus -says, “the Mareotic grape was remarkable for its -sweetness;” and he thus describes the wine made -therefrom: “Its colour is white, its quality excellent, -and it is sweet and light, with a fragrant <i>bouquet</i>; it is -by no means astringent, nor does it affect the head.... -Still, however, it is inferior to the Teniotic, a -wine which receives its name from a place called -Tenia, where it is produced. Its colour is pale and -white, and there is such a degree of richness in it, that, -when mixed with water, it seems gradually to be -diluted, much in the same way as Attic honey when -a liquid is poured into it; and besides the agreeable -flavour of the wine, its fragrance is so delightful as to -render it perfectly aromatic, and it has the property of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_16"></a>[16]</span> -being slightly astringent. There are many other -vineyards in the valley of the Nile, whose wines are -in great repute, and these differ both in colour and -taste; but that which is produced about Anthylla is -preferred to all the rest.” He also commends some -of the wines made in the Thebaïd, especially about -Coptos, and says that they were “so wholesome that -invalids might take them without inconvenience, even -during a fever.”</p> - -<p>Pliny cites the Sebennytic wine as one of the choice -Egyptian <i>crûs</i>, and says it was made of three different -sorts of grapes. He also speaks of a curious wine -called <i>Ecbolada</i>.</p> - -<p>Wine took a large part in the Egyptian ritual, and -was freely poured forth as libations to the different -deities; and in private life women were not restricted -in its use. In fact, the ungallant Egyptians have left -behind them several delineations of ladies in a decided -state of “how came you so?” It was probably put -down to the Egyptian equivalent for Salmon.<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> But if -they noticed the failings of their womankind, they -equally faithfully portrayed their own shortcomings, -for we see them being carried home from a feast limp -and helpless, or else standing on their heads, and -otherwise playing the fool.</p> - -<p>Still, wine was the drink of the wealthy, or at least -of those, as we should call them, “well to do.” They -had a beer, which Diodorus calls <i>zythum</i>,<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> and which,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17"></a>[17]</span> -he says, was scarcely inferior to the juice of the grape. -This beer was made from barley, and, hops being -unknown, it was flavoured with lupins and other -vegetable substances. This old beer was called <i>hega</i>, -and can be traced back as far as the 4th dynasty. -Then they also had Palm wine, and another wine -called <i>baga</i>, supposed to be made from dates or figs; -and they also made wines from pomegranates and -other fruits, and from herbs, such as rue, hellebore,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18"></a>[18]</span> -absinthe, etc., which probably answered the purpose of -our modern “bitters.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus2.jpg" width="500" height="400" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>The Assyrians, who rank next in antiquity to the -Egyptians, were no shunners of wine; they could -drink sociably, and hob-nob together, as we see by the -accompanying illustration.</p> - -<p>Their wine cups were, in keeping with all the dress -and furniture of the royal palaces, exceedingly ornate; -and it is curious to note the comparative barbarism of -the wine skin, and the nervous beauty of the wine -cups being filled by the effeminate eunuch. The -numerous bas-reliefs which, happily, have been -rescued, to our great edification, afford many examples -of wine cups of very great beauty of form. The -inscriptions give us a list of many wines, and among -them was the wine of Helbon, which was grown near -Damascus, at a village now called Halbûn. It is -alluded to in Ezekiel xxvii. 18: “Damascus was -thy merchant, by reason of the multitude of the wares -of thy making, for the multitude of all riches; in the -wine of Helbon, and white wool.”</p> - -<p>Wm. St. Chad Boscawen, Esq., the eminent -Assyriologist, has kindly favoured us with the following -illustration and note on the subject of Assyrian -wines:—</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus3.jpg" width="500" height="225" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19"></a>[19]</span></p> - -<p>“This list of wines is found engraved upon a terra-cotta -tablet from the palace of Assur-ba-ni-pal, the -Sardanapalus of the Greeks, and evidently represents -the wines supplied to the royal table. It reads:</p> - -<table summary="List of wines"> - <tr> - <td class="nw">Col. I.</td> - <td>Wine of the Land of Izalli.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>Wine, the Drink of the King (<i>Daniel</i> i. 5).</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>Wine of the Nazahrie.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>Wine of Ra-h-ū (<i>Shepherds’ Wine</i>).</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>Wine of Khabaru.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="nw">Col. II.</td> - <td>Wine of Khilbunn or Helbon.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>Wine of Arnabani (<i>North Syria</i>).</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>Wine of Sibzu (<i>Sweet Wine</i>).</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>Wine of Sa-ta-ba-bi-ru-ri (<i>which I think means Wines which - from the Vineyard come not</i>).</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>Wine of Kharrubi (<i>Wine of the Carrob or Locust bean</i>).”</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>On Phillips’s Cylinder (col. i. l. 21-26) is a list of -wines which Nabuchodorossor is said to have offered: -“The wine of the countries of Izalla, Toúimmon, -Ssmmini, Helbon, Aranaban, Souha, Bit-Koubati, and -Bigati, as the waters of rivers without number.” And -among the inscriptions deciphered appear a long list -of wines which the Assyrian monarchs are said to -have carried into their country as booty, or to have -received as tribute.</p> - -<p>We see the process of filling the wine cups at a -feast. They were dipped into a large vase instead of -being filled from a small vessel. Nor were they alone -contented with grape wine, they had palm wine, wine -made from dates, and beer even as the Egyptians had.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20"></a>[20]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus4.jpg" width="500" height="325" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>According to the <i>Abodah Zarah</i>, a treatise on false -worship, there was a mixed drink used in Babylon -called <i>Cuttach</i>, which possessed marvellous properties. -“It obstructs the heart, blinds the eyes, and emaciates -the body. It obstructs the heart, because it contains -whey of milk; it blinds the eyes, because it contains -a peculiar salt which has this property; and it -emaciates the body, because of the putrefied bread -which is mixed with it. If poured upon stones, it -breaks them; and of it is a proverb, ‘That it is better -to eat a stinking fish than take <i>Cuttach</i>.’” The same -treatise also mentions Median beer and Edomite -vinegar.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 475px;"> -<img src="images/illus5.jpg" width="475" height="500" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>The Hittites had been a powerful and civilized -nation when the Jews were in an exceedingly primitive -condition, and Abraham found them the rightful -possessors of Hebron, in Southern Palestine (Gen. -xxiii.), and so far recognised their rights to the soil, as<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21"></a>[21]</span> -to purchase from them the Cave of Machpelah for -“four hundred shekels of silver, current money with -the merchant.” Their power afterwards waned, as -they had left Hebron and taken to the mountains, as -was reported by the spies sent by Moses, four hundred -years afterwards (Num. xiii.), but they have left -behind them carvings which throw some light upon -their social customs. For instance, here is one of two -ladies partaking of a social glass together. Unfortunately, -we do not know at present the true meaning of -their inscriptions, for scholars are yet at variance as -to the translation of them. That they thoroughly -cherished wine may be seen from the accompanying -illustration, which represents one of their deities, who -appears to be a compound of Bacchus and Ceres,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22"></a>[22]</span> -and aptly illustrative of the two good things of those -countries, corn and wine, which, with the olive and -honey, made an earthly Paradise for the inhabitants -thereof. It shows how much they appreciated wine, -when they deified it.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 275px;"> -<img src="images/illus6.jpg" width="275" height="500" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>As to the Hebrews, they were well acquainted with -wine, and placed Noah’s beginning to be a husbandman, -and planting a vineyard, as the earliest thing he -did after the subsidence of the flood. Throughout -their sacred writings, wine is frequently mentioned, -and intoxication must have been very well known -among them, judging by the number of passages -making mention of it. A great variety of wines is not -named—nay, there are only two specifically mentioned:<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23"></a>[23]</span> -the wine of Helbon, which, as we have seen, was an -article of merchandise at Damascus, a fat, luscious -wine, as its name signifies; and the wine of Lebanon, -which was celebrated for its <i>bouquet</i>. “The scent -thereof shall be as the wine of Lebanon” (Hos. xiv. -7). It is possible that this <i>bouquet</i> was natural, or it -might have been artificial, for it was the custom to mix -perfumes, spices, and aromatic herbs so as to enhance -the flavour of the wine, as we see in Canticles viii. 2: -“I would cause thee to drink of spiced wine of the -juice of my pomegranate;” by which illustration we -also see that the Hebrews made wines other than -those from grapes.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus7.jpg" width="500" height="275" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>That it was commonly in use is proved, if it needed -proof, by the miracle at the marriage at Cana, where -the worldly-wise ruler of the feast says, “Every man -at the beginning doth set forth good wine; and when -men have well drunk, then that which is worse: but -thou hast kept the good wine until now.” That they -drank water mixed with wine may be inferred by the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24"></a>[24]</span> -two verses (Prov. ix. 2, 5): “She hath mingled her -wine”; “Drink of the wine that I have mingled.” -Their wine used to be trodden in the press, the wine -being put into bottles or wine skins, specially mentioned -in Joshua ix. 4, 13. In later days they had -vessels of earthenware and glass, similar to those in -the illustration, which were found whilst excavating in -Jerusalem.</p> - -<p>That the ancient Jews knew of other intoxicating -liquors, such as palm and date wines, there can be -very little doubt.</p> - -<p class="right">J. A.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> -<img src="images/illus8.jpg" width="350" height="250" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25"></a>[25]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header3.jpg" width="500" height="300" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CLASSICAL_WINES_GREEK">CLASSICAL WINES.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Greek.</span><a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></h2> - -<p>Homer’s Wine of the Coast of Thrace—Pramnian Wine—Psithian, -Capnian, Saprian, and other Wines—The Mixing of Wines—Use -of Pitch and Rosin—Undiluted Wine—Wine Making—Spiced -Wines—A Greek Symposium.</p> - -</div> - -<p>The only wine upon which Homer dilates, in a -tone of approval approaching to hyperbole, is -that produced on the coast of Thrace, the scene of -several of the most remarkable exploits of Bacchus. -This wine the minister of Apollo, Maron, gave to -Ulysses. It was red and honey sweet, so strong that -it was mingled with twenty times its bulk of water, -so fragrant that it filled even when diluted the house -with perfume (<i>Od.</i> ix. 203). Homer’s <i>Pramnian</i> wine -is variously interpreted by various writers.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26"></a>[26]</span></p> - -<p>The most important wines of later times are those -of the islands Chios, Thasos, Cos, and Lesbos, and -a few places on the opposite coast of Asia. The -<i>Aminean</i> wine, so called from the vine which produced -it, was of great durability. The <i>Psithian</i> was -particularly suitable for <i>passum</i>, and the <i>Capnian</i>, or -smoke-wine, was so named from the colour of the -grapes. The <i>Saprian</i> was a remarkably rich wine, -“toothless,” says Athenæus, “and sere and wondrous -old.”</p> - -<p>Wine was the ordinary Greek drink. Diodorus -Siculus says Dionysus invented a drink from barley, -a mead-like drink called βρύτος; but there is nothing -to show that this was ever introduced into Greece. -The Greek wine was conducive to inebriety, and Musæus -and Eumolpus (<i>Plato, Rep.</i> ii.) made the fairest -reward of the virtuous an everlasting booze—ἡγησάμενοι -κάλλιστον ἀρετῆς μισθὸν μέθην αἰώνιον. Different sorts -of wine were sometimes mixed together; sea water -was added to some wines. Plutarch (<i>Quæst. Nat.</i> 10) -also relates that the casks were smeared with pitch, -and that resin was mixed with their wine by the -Eubœans.</p> - -<p>Wine was mingled with hot water as well as with -cold before drinking. To drink wine undiluted was -looked on as a barbarism. Straining, usual among -the Romans, seems to have been the reverse among -the Greeks. It is seldom mentioned. The Roman -wine was most likely filtered through wool. The -Spartans (<i>Herodotus</i>, vi. 84) fancied Cleomenes had -gone mad by drinking neat wine, a habit he had<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27"></a>[27]</span> -learned from the Scythians. The proportions of the -mixture varied, but there was always more water, and -half and half ἴσον ἴσῳ was repudiated as disgraceful.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 325px;"> -<img src="images/illus9.jpg" width="325" height="500" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>The process of wine-making was essentially the -same among the Greeks and the Romans. The -grapes were gathered, trodden, and submitted to the -press. The juice which flowed from the grapes before -any force was applied was known as πρόχυμα, and was -reserved for the manufacture of a particular species of -rich wine described by Pliny (<i>H. N.</i> xiv. II), to which -the inhabitants of Mitylene gave the name of πρόδρομος. -The Greeks recognised three colours in wines—black -or red, white or straw-colour, and tawny brown -(κιῤῥός, <i>fulvus</i>). When wine was carried, ἀσκοί, or -bags of goat-skin, were used, pitched over to make -them seam-tight. The cut above, from a bronze found<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28"></a>[28]</span> -at Herculaneum (<i>Mus. Borbon.</i> iii. 28) exhibits a -Silenus astride one of them.</p> - -<p>The mode of drinking from the ἀμφορεύς, bottle or -amphora, and from a wine skin, is taken from a painting -on an Etruscan vase.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus10.jpg" width="500" height="475" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>A spiced wine is noticed by Athenæus under the -name of τρίμμα. Into the οἶνοι ὑγιεινοί, or medical -wines, drugs, such as horehound, squills, wormwood, -and myrtle-berries, were introduced to produce hygienic -effects. Essential oils were also mixed with -wines. Of these the μυῤῥινίτης<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> is mentioned by Ælian -(<i>V. H.</i> xii. 3 I). So in the early ages when Hecamede<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29"></a>[29]</span> -prepares a drink for Nestor, she sprinkles her cup of -<i>Pramnian</i> wine with grated cheese, perhaps a sort of -Gruyère, and flour. The most popular of these compound -beverages was the οἰνόμελι<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> (<i>mulsum</i>), or honey -wine, said by Pliny (xiv. 4) to have been invented by -Aristæus. Greek wines required no long time to ripen. -The wine drank by Nestor (<i>Odyss.</i> iii. 391) of ten -years old is an exception.</p> - -<p>The sweet wines of the Greeks (the produce of -various islands on the Ægean and Ionian Seas) were -probably something like modern Cyprus and Constantia, -while the dry wines, such as the Pramnian -and Corinthian, were remarkable for their astringency, -and were indeed only drinkable after being preserved -for many years. Of the former of these Aristophanes -says that it shrivelled the features and obstructed the -digestion of all who drank it, while to taste the latter -was mere torture.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30"></a>[30]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header4.jpg" width="500" height="175" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CLASSICAL_WINES_ROMAN">CLASSICAL WINES.<br /> -<span class="smcap">Roman.</span></h2> - -<p>Falernian, Cæcuban, and other Wines—Galen’s Opinion—Columella’s -Receipt—The Roman Banquet—Dessert Wines—The -Supper of Nasidienus—Dedication of Cups—Wines mentioned -by Pliny made of Figs, Medlars, Mulberries, and other Fruits.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Of Roman wines the Campania Felix boasted the -most celebrated growths. The Falernian, Massican, -Cæcuban, and Surrentine wines were all the produce -of this favoured soil. The three first of these -wines have been, as the schoolboy (not necessarily -Macaulay’s) is only too well aware, immortalised by -Horace, who doubtless had ample opportunities of -forming a matured judgment about them.</p> - -<p>The Cæcuban is described by Galen as a generous -wine, ripening only after a long term of years. The -Massican closely resembled the Falernian. The -Setine was a light wine, and, according to Pliny, the -favourite drink of Augustus, who perhaps grounded -his preference on his idea that it was the least injurious -to the stomach. Possibly Horace differed from his -patron in taste. He never mentions this wine, which -is however celebrated both by Martial and by Juvenal.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31"></a>[31]</span></p> - -<p>As for the Surrentine, the fiat of Tiberias has dismissed -it as generous vinegar. Dr. Henderson has -no hesitation in fixing upon the wines of Xeres and -Madeira as those to which the celebrated Falernian -bears the nearest resemblance. Both are straw-coloured, -assuming a deeper tint from age. Both present -the varieties of dry and sweet. Both are strong -and durable. Both require keeping. The soil of -Madeira is more analogous to that of the Campania -Felix, whence we may conclude perhaps that the -flavour and aroma of its wines are similar to those -of the Campania. Finally, if Madeira or sherry -were kept in earthen jars till reduced to the consistence -of honey, the taste would become so bitter -that, to use the expression of Cicero (<i>Brut.</i> 83), we -should condemn it as intolerable.</p> - -<p>The wines of antiquity present disagreeable features; -sea water, for instance, and resin already mentioned. -Columella advises the addition of one pint of salt -water for six gallons of wine. The impregnation with -resin has been still preserved, with the result of making -some modern Greek wines unpalatable save to the -modern Greeks themselves. Columella (<i>De Re -Rustica</i>, xii. 19) says that four ounces of crude pitch -mingled with certain aromatic herbs should be mixed -with two <i>amphoræ</i>, or about thirteen gallons of wine.</p> - -<p>Ancient wines were also exposed in smoky garrets -until reduced to a thick syrup, when they had to be -strained before they were drunk. Habit only it seems -could have endeared these pickled and pitched and -smoked wines to the Greek and Roman palates, as<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_32"></a>[32]</span> -it has endeared to some of our own caviare and -putrescent game.</p> - -<p>To drink wine unmixed was, it has been said before, -held by the Greeks to be disreputable. Those who -did so were said to be like Scythians. The Maronean -wine of Homer was mixed with twenty measures of -water. The common proportion in the more polished -days of Greece was three or four parts of water to -one of wine. But probably Greece, like Rome, had -many a Menenius who loved a cup of hot wine with -not a drop of allaying Tiber in it. If the condition of -Alcibiades in the Platonic symposium was the result of -wine so diluted, the wine must have been strong indeed.</p> - -<p>The Grecian and Roman banquet began with the -<i>mulsum</i>, of mingled wine and honey. The dessert -wines among the Greeks were the Thasian and -Lesbian; among the Romans the Alban, Cæcuban, -and Falernian, and afterwards the Chian and Lesbian.</p> - -<p>In the triumphal supper of Cæsar in his dictatorship -Pliny says Falernian flowed in hogsheads and Chian -in gallons. At the well-known Horatian supper of -Nasidienus, the Cæcuban and indifferent Chian were -handed round before the host advised Mæcenas that -Alban and Falernian were procurable if he preferred -them.</p> - -<p>Juvenal and Martial tell us of the complaint of -clients, that while the master and his friends drank -the best wine out of costly cups, they themselves had -to put up with ropy liquors in coarse, half-broken -vessels. Human nature has changed little in this -respect since those satirists wrote.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33"></a>[33]</span></p> - -<p>The old fashion of dedicating cups to divinities led -perhaps to our modern system of drinking healths. -Sometimes as many cups were drunk to a person as -there were letters in the name of the person so -honoured.</p> - -<p>It was better then for the bibulous to toast the -ancient Sempronia or Messalina than the modern Meg -or Kate.</p> - -<p><i>Hydromeli</i>, made of honey and five-year-old rain-water; -<i>oxymeli</i>, made of honey, sea-salt, and vinegar; -<i>hydromelon</i>, made of honey and quinces; <i>hydrorosatum</i>, -a similar compound with the addition of roses; -<i>apomeli</i>, water in which honeycomb had been boiled; -<i>omphacomeli</i>, a mixture of honey and verjuice; <i>myrtites</i>, -a compound of honey and myrtle seed; <i>rhoites</i>, -a drink in which the pomegranate took the place of -the myrtle; <i>œnanthinum</i>, made from the fruit of the -wild vine; <i>silatum</i>, taken, according to Festus, in the -forenoon, and made of <i>Saxifragia major</i> (Forcellini) -or <i>Tordylium officinale</i> (Liddell and Scott); <i>sycites</i>, -wine of figs; <i>phœnicites</i>, wine of palms; <i>abrotonites</i>, -wine of wormwood; and <i>adynamon</i>, a weak wine for -the sick—are most of them mentioned as drinks in -Pliny.<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> This author also mentions drinks made of -sorbs, medlars, mulberries, and other fruits, of asparagus, -origanum, thyme, and other herbs. Hippocrates -praises wine as a medical agent. In his third book -the father of medicine gives a description of the -general qualities and virtues of wines, and shows for -what diseases they are in his opinion advantageous.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34"></a>[34]</span> -For more information on wines the reader may consult -Sir Edward Barry, Dr. Alexander Henderson, -and Cyrus Redding. Henderson, who was, like -Barry, a physician, did not always agree with him. -Barry’s observations, according to Henderson, are -chiefly borrowed from Bacci. Those not so borrowed -are for the most part “flimsy and tedious.”</p> - -<p>The vessels and other drinking cups were commonly -ranged on an abacus of marble, something like -our sideboard. It was large, if Philo Judeus is to be -believed. Pliny, speaking of Pompey’s spoils in the -matter of the pirates, says the number of jewel-adorned -drinking cups was enough to furnish nine <i>abaci</i>. Cicero -charges Verres with having plundered the <i>abaci</i>.</p> - -<p>When Rome was in the height of her luxury, murrhine -cups were introduced from the East. What this -substance was, the ruins of Pompeii have never revealed; -some maintain it was porcelain, others think -it was a species of spar.</p> - -<p>Dr. Henderson adopts the opinion of M. de Rozière -that these cups were of fluor-spar; but this article is -not found in Karamania, from which district of Parthia -both Pliny and Propertius agree that they came, -though they differ with respect to their nature; its -geographic situation seems confined to Europe. The -anecdote told by Lampridius of Heliogabalus (502) -proves, not the similarity of material, but only the -equal rareness and value of vessels of onyx and -murrhine.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus11.jpg" width="500" height="625" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">AMPHORÆ, RHYTONS, ETC. (<i>Brit. Mus.</i>).</p> -</div> - -<p>A writer in the <i>Westminster Review</i> for July, 1825, -believes them to have been porcelain cups from China;<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35"></a>[35]</span> -the expression of Propertius, “<i>cocta focis</i>,” proves that -they were manufactured. In the time of Belon (1555) -the Greeks called them <i>the myrrh of Smyrna</i>, from -<i>murex</i>, a shell. From this it seems that their name -was given to the vases from a resemblance of colours<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_36"></a>[36]</span> -to those of the <i>murex</i>. Stolberg (<i>Travels</i>, ix. 280) -says he saw in a collection at Catania a little blue -vase, believed to be a <i>vas murrhinum</i>.</p> - -<p>The modern jars in any of the wine districts of -Italy, such as Asti Montepulciano or Montefiascone, -thin earthen two-handled vessels holding some -twenty quarts, are almost identical with the ancient -<i>amphoræ</i>. Suetonius speaks of a candidate for the -quæstorship who drank the contents of a whole -<i>amphora</i> at a dinner given by Tiberius. This -<i>amphora</i> was probably of a smaller size. Wooden -vessels for wine seem to have been unfamiliar to the -Greeks and Romans; they, however, occasionally employed -glass. Bottles, vases, and cups of that material, -which may be seen often enough now in collections of -antiquities, show the great taste which in these and -in other matters they possessed. A few of these are -given to illustrate our text. Skins of animals, rendered -impervious by oil or resinous gums, were -probably the most ancient receptacles for wine after -it was taken from the vat. To these there are frequent -allusions in Homer and Isaiah. Vessels of clay, -with a coating of pitch, were introduced subsequently.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus12.jpg" width="500" height="200" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37"></a>[37]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header5.jpg" width="500" height="325" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="NORTHERN_DRINKING">NORTHERN DRINKING.</h2> - -<p>Beowulf—Ale—Beer—Mead—English Wine—The Mead Hall—Drinking -Horns—Tosti and Harold—Pigment, etc.—The -Clergy, etc., drinking—Northern Wine drinking—King Hunding—Brewing—Strange -Drinking Vessels, and their Use—Punishment -of Drunkards.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Sailing from the north, being lured to the -south with visions of plunder and luxury, came -the Danish and Norwegian Vikings, and, as England -was the nearest to them, she received an early visit. -With them they brought their habit of deep drinking, -which was scarcely needed, as on that score the then -inhabitants of England could pretty well hold their -own. Their liquors seem to have been ale, <i>ealu</i>, beer, -<i>beor</i>, wine, <i>win</i>, and mead, <i>medo</i>.</p> - -<p>There was a difference between those that drank -ale and those that drank beer, as we find in -<i>Beowulf</i><a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a>:—</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38"></a>[38]</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Full oft have promis’d,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">with beer drunken,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Over <i>the</i> ale cup,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">sons of conflict,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">that they in <i>the</i> beer-hall</div> - <div class="verse indent0">would await</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Grendel’s warfare</div> - <div class="verse indent0">with terrors of edges:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">then was this mead-hall,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">at morning tide,</div> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>this</i> princely court, stain’d with gore;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">when <i>the</i> day dawn’d,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">all <i>the</i> bench-floor</div> - <div class="verse indent0">with blood bestream’d,</div> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>the</i> hall, with horrid gore;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">of faithful <i>followers</i> I own’d the less,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">of dear nobles,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">who then death destroyed.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Sit now to <i>the</i> feast,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">and unbind with mead</div> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>thy</i> valiant breast with <i>my</i> warriors</div> - <div class="verse indent0">as thy mind may excite.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Then was for <i>the</i> sons of <i>the</i> Goths</div> - <div class="verse indent0">altogether</div> - <div class="verse indent0">in <i>the</i> beer hall</div> - <div class="verse indent0">a bench clear’d;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">there the strong of soul</div> - <div class="verse indent0">went to sit</div> - <div class="verse indent0">tumultuously rejoicing:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">the thane observ’d <i>his</i> duty,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">who in <i>his</i> hand bare</div> - <div class="verse indent0">the ornamented ale-cup,</div> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>he</i> pour’d <i>the</i> bright, sweet <i>liquor</i>:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">the gleeman sang at times</div> - <div class="verse indent0">serene in Heorot:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">there was joy of warriors,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">no few nobles</div> - <div class="verse indent0">of Danes and Weders.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_39"></a>[39]</span></p> - -<p>In Dugdale’s <i>Monasticon</i> (ed. 1682, p. 126), in a -Charter of Offa to the Monastery of Westbury, three -sorts of ale are mentioned. Two tuns full of hlutres -aloth (<i>Clear ale</i>), a cumb full of lithes aloth (mild ale), -and a cumb full of Welisces aloth (Welsh ale), which -is again mentioned as <i>cervisia Walliæ</i>.</p> - -<p>But though beer and ale were the drinks of the -common folk, yet they were not despised by their -leaders.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0"><a id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a>“At times before <i>the</i> nobles</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Hrothgar’s daughter</div> - <div class="verse indent0">to <i>the</i> earls in order</div> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>the</i> ale cup bore.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>We see the social difference between ale and wine -drinkers in one of the Cotton MSS. (<i>Tib.</i> A. 3), where -a lad having been asked what he drank replied: “Ale, -if I have it; Water, if I have it not.” Asked why he -does not drink wine, he says: “I am not so rich that -I can buy me wine; and wine is not the drink of -children or the weak-minded, but of the elders and -the wise.”</p> - -<p>The English at that time grew the Vine for wine-making -purposes; indeed, very good wine can now -be, and is, made from English grapes. Every monastery -had its vineyard, and to this day London has -six Vine Streets and one Vineyard Walk. The wine-hall -seems to have been a different apartment to either -the mead or ale-halls, and of a superior order.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0"><a id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a>“<i>The</i> company all arose;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">greeted then<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40"></a>[40]</span></div> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>one</i> man another</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Hrothgar Beowulf,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">and bade him hail,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">gave <i>him</i> command of <i>the</i> wine-hall.”</div> - <div class="verse center">...<a id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a></div> - <div class="verse indent0">“<i>He</i> strode under <i>the</i> clouds,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">until he <i>the</i> wine-house,</div> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>the</i> golden hall of men,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">most readily perceiv’d,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">richly variegated.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>The mead-hall seems to have answered the purpose -of a common hall, as we see by the following. Speaking -of Hrothgar, the poet says:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0"><a id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a>“<i>It</i> ran through his mind</div> - <div class="verse indent0">that <i>he a</i> hall-house</div> - <div class="verse indent0">would command,</div> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>a</i> great mead-house,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">men to make,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">which the sons of men</div> - <div class="verse indent0">should ever hear of;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">and there within</div> - <div class="verse indent0">all distribute</div> - <div class="verse indent0">to young and old,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">as to him God had given,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">except <i>the</i> people’s share,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">and the lives of men.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Then I heard <i>that</i> widely</div> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>the</i> work <i>was</i> proclaim’d</div> - <div class="verse indent0">to many <i>a</i> tribe</div> - <div class="verse indent0">through this mid-earth</div> - <div class="verse indent0">that <i>a</i> public place was building.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Mead was considered a glorified liquor fit for <span class="smcap">Men</span> -and is thus sung of by the bard Taliesin:—</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41"></a>[41]</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“That Maelgwn of Mona be inspired with mead and cheer us with it,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">From the mead-horn’s foaming, pure, and shining liquor,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Which the bees provide, but do not enjoy;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Mead distilled, I praise; its eulogy is everywhere</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Precious to the creature whom the earth maintains.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">God made it to man for his happiness,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The fierce and the mute both enjoy it.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Mead was made from honey and water, fermented, -and in many languages its name has a striking similarity. -In Greek, honey is <i>methu</i>, in Sanskrit, <i>madhu</i>, -and the drink made therefrom in Danish, is <i>miod</i>, in -Anglo-Saxon, <i>medu</i>, in Welsh, <i>medd</i>, whence metheglyn—<i>medd</i>, -mead, and <i>llyn</i>, liquor. In <i>Beowulf</i> we frequently -find mention of the <i>mead-horns</i>, and we see -it vividly portrayed in the heading of this chapter, -which is taken from the Bayeux Tapestry. These -horns were generally those of oxen, although some -were made of ivory, and were probably used because -fictile ware was so easily broken in those drinking -bouts in which they so frequently indulged. Another -reason was doubtless that they promoted conviviality, -for, like the classical <i>Rhyton</i>, they could not be set -down like a bowl, but must either be nursed, or their -contents quaffed.</p> - -<p>Many examples of drinking horns remain to us, and -illustrations of two are here given: one that of Ulph, -belonging to, and now kept at, York Minster, and the -other the Pusey horn. These are veritable <i>drinking -horns</i>; but there are many other tenure horns in -existence, which are hunting horns.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_42"></a>[42]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus13.jpg" width="500" height="325" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">The Pusey Horn.</span></p> -</div> - -<p>This horn is an old tenure horn. It was once the -custom, when making a gift of land, instead of making -out a deed of gift, to present some article of personal -use, such as a knife, a drinking or hunting horn, and -with it the manor or land, the recipient keeping the -present, as a proof that the land was given him. This -Pusey horn is said to have been given by King Knut -to William Pewse, and on the silver-gilt band, to -which are appended dog’s legs and feet, is inscribed -in Gothic letters—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Kyng Knowde geve Wyllyam Pewse</div> - <div class="verse indent0">This horne to holde by thy lond.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>It is an ox horn, dark brown, and is 25½ inches -long, having a silver-gilt rim, and at the small end a -hound’s head, also of silver-gilt, which unscrews, thus -enabling it to be used either as a drinking or hunting -horn.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43"></a>[43]</span></p> - -<p>Ulph’s horn is considered of somewhat later date, -and is of ivory.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus14.jpg" width="500" height="225" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Ulph’s Horn.</span></p> -</div> - -<p>Of this horn Dugdale<a id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> says: “About this time also, -Ulphe, the son of Thorald, who ruled in the west of -Deira,<a id="FNanchor_14" href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> by reason of the difference which was like to -rise between his sons, about the sharing of his lands -and lordships after his death, resolved to make them -all alike; and thereupon, coming to York, with that -horn wherewith he was used to drink, filled it with -wine, and before the altar of God, and Saint Peter, -Prince of the Apostles, kneeling devoutly, drank the -wine, and by that ceremony enfeoffed this church with -all his lands and revenues. The figure of which horn, -in memory thereof, is cut in stone upon several parts -of the choir, but the horn itself, when the Reformation -in King Edward the VIth’s time began, and swept -away many costly ornaments belonging to this church,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44"></a>[44]</span> -was sold to a goldsmith, who took away from it those -tippings of gold wherewith it was adorned, and the -gold chain affixed thereto; since which, the horn itself, -being cut in ivory in an eight square form, came -to the hands of Thomas, late Lord Fairfax.”</p> - -<p>He, dying in 1671, it came into the possession of his -next relation, Henry, Lord Fairfax, who restored its -ornaments in silver-gilt, and restored it to the cathedral -authorities. It bears the following inscription:—</p> - -<p class="center">“<span class="smcap">Cornv hoc, Vlphvs in occidentali parte<br /> -Deiræ princeps, vna cum omnibvs terris<br /> -et redditibvs suis olim donavit.<br /> -Amissvm vel abreptvm.<br /> -Henricvs dom. Fairfax demvm restitvit.<br /> -Dec. et capit. de novo ornavit.</span><br /> -A.D. MDC. LXXV.”</p> - -<p>Most of us know Longfellow’s poem of King Witlaf’s -drinking horn, a story which may be found in -Ingulphus, who says that Witlaf, King of Mercia, -who lived in the reign of Egbert, gave to the Abbey -of Croyland the horn used at his own table, for the -elder monks of the house to drink out of it on festivals -and saints’ days, and that when they gave thanks, they -might remember the soul of Witlaf the donor. That -they had some horn of the kind is probable, for the -same chronicler says that when the monastery was -almost destroyed by fire, this horn was saved.</p> - -<p>Besides the liquors above mentioned, the Anglo-Saxons -had others, as we see in a passage of Henry -of Huntingdon (lib. vi.), which is probably an invention,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45"></a>[45]</span> -the same story being told by Florence of Worcester, -of Caradoc, the son of Griffith, <span class="allsmcap">A.D.</span> 1065. -However, he says that in 1063, in the king’s palace -at Winchester, Tosti seized his brother Harold by the -hair, in the royal presence, and while he was serving -the king with wine; for it had been a source of envy -and hatred that the king showed a higher regard for -Harold, though Tosti was the elder brother. Wherefore, -in a sudden paroxysm of passion, he could not -refrain from this attack on his brother.</p> - -<p>Tosti departed from the king and his brother in -great anger, and went to Hereford, where Harold had -purveyed large supplies for the royal use. There he -butchered all his brother’s servants, and inclosed a -head and an arm in each of the vessels containing -wine, mead, ale, pigment,<a id="FNanchor_15" href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> morat,<a id="FNanchor_16" href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> and cider, sending -a message to the king that when he came to his farm -he would find plenty of salt meat, and that he would -bring more with him. For this horrible crime the -king commanded him to be banished and outlawed.</p> - -<p>There is no doubt but that the Anglo-Saxons drank -to excess, and thought no shame of it. Many times in -Beowulf are we told of their being dragged from the -mead-benches by their enemies and slaughtered, and -in a fragment of an Anglo-Saxon poem on Judith we -read:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Then was Holofernes</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Enchanted with the wine of men:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">In the hall of the guests</div><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46"></a>[46]</span> - <div class="verse indent0">He laughed and shouted,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">He roared and dinn’d,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">That the children of men might hear afar,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">How the sturdy one</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Stormed and clamoured,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Animated and elate with wine</div> - <div class="verse indent0">He admonished amply</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Those sitting on the bench</div> - <div class="verse indent0">That they should bear it well.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">So was the wicked one all day,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The lord and his men,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Drunk with wine;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The stern dispenser of wealth;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Till that they swimming lay</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Over drunk.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">All his nobility</div> - <div class="verse indent0">As they were death slain,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Their property poured about.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">So commanded the lord of men,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To fill to those sitting at the feast,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Till the dark night</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Approached the children of men.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/illus15.jpg" width="300" height="300" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>Even the clergy and monks drank probably more -than was good for them, for a priest was forbidden by -law to eat or drink at places where ale was sold. But -that did not prevent their drinking at home; their<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47"></a>[47]</span> -benefactors provided well for that, as one instance will -show. Ethelwold allowed the Monastery of Abingdon -a great bowl, from which the drinking vessels of the -brothers were filled twice a day. At Christmas, Easter, -Pentecost, the Nativity and Assumption of the -Virgin, on the festivals of Saints Peter and Paul, and -all the other saints, they were to have wine, as well -as mead, twice a day; and taking the number of Saints -in the Anglo-Saxon Calendar, it must have gone hard -with them, if this was not almost an every-day occurrence.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus16.jpg" width="500" height="325" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>The Northern nations did not lose their love of -drink as time rolled on, as we may find in the pages -of Olaus Magnus. They drank wine, but owing to -the extreme cold it was not of native production, but -imported. In this illustration we see the vessel that -has brought it, and the bush outside, denoting that it -was to be sold. They got it from Spain, Italy, France,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48"></a>[48]</span> -and Germany, but he says that the wine most in repute -was a Spanish wine called Bastard, which Shakspeare -mentions more than once, as (1 <i>Henry IV.</i> act ii. sc. 4) -Prince Henry relating his adventures with a drawer, -says, “Anon, anon, sir! Score a pint of Bastard in -the Half Moon.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus17.jpg" width="500" height="325" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>He gives receipts for making Hydromel, or Mead, -which was to be made of one part honey, and four of -boiling water, to be well stirred, boiled, and skimmed. -Hops were then to be added, then casked, and brewers’ -yeast added. Then to be strained, and it was fit for -drinking in eight days. He tells a pathetic story of -King Hunding, who being sorely grieved at the loss -of his brother-in-law, Gutthorm, called all his nobility -around him to a great feast, and had a large tun, filled -with hydromel, placed in the middle of the hall. When -his guests were sufficiently inebriated, he threw himself -into the liquor, and died sweetly.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49"></a>[49]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus18.jpg" width="500" height="325" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>Beer had they, made of malt and hops, and he gives -various methods of brewing, and also a list of divers -beers and their medicinal qualities.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus19.jpg" width="500" height="325" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>He also gives an illustration of various drinking -vessels then (16th cent.) in use among the Danes and -Swedes, where is here reproduced. Here we see<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50"></a>[50]</span> -some plain, others ornamental with runes, and some -with very curious handles. He says they were mostly -of brass, copper, or iron, because in that cold climate -the liquor they held had to be warmed over the fire.</p> - -<p>An old translation of a portion of his <i>Historia de -Gentibus Septentrionalibus</i> gives the following account -“Of the manner of drinking amongst the Northern -People.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus20.jpg" width="500" height="325" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>“It will not displease curious Readers to hear how -the custom is of drinking amongst the Northern -People. First, they hold it Religion to drink the -healths of Kings and Princes, standing, in reverence of -them; and here they will, as it were, sweat in the -contention, who shall at one or two, or more draughts, -drink off a huge bowl. Wherefore they seem to sit at -Table as if they had Crowns on their heads, and to -drink in a certain kind of vessel; which, it may be, -may cause men that know it not, to admire it. But<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51"></a>[51]</span> -that were more admirable to see the servants go in a -long train, in troops, as Pastours of Harts with horns, -that they may drink up those Cups full of beer to the -Ghests. And, not content with these Ceremonies, -they will strive to shew their Sobriety, by setting such -a high Cup full of Beer upon their naked heads, and -dance and turn round with it; in like manner they -deliver other Cups which they bring in both hands to -the Ghests to drink off, at equall draughts, which are -full of Wine, Ale, Mede, Metheglin, or new Wine.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus21.jpg" width="500" height="325" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>He winds up with a moral dissertation on the -punishment of drinkers, and, after detailing the various -effects of alcohol on different races, as rendering the -Gaul petulant, the German quarrelsome, the Goth -obstreperous, and the Finn lachrymose, he suggests -that drunkards should be seated on a sharp wedge, -compelled to drink a mighty horn of beer, and then -be hauled up and down by a rope.</p> - -<p class="right">J. A.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52"></a>[52]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header6.jpg" width="500" height="250" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="WINES">WINES.</h2> - -<p>Definition—Various Meanings of Wine—Alcohol—Varieties of -Wine—Miller—Professor Mulder—Origin of Wine—Brook of -Eshcol—Strabo and Reland—Francatelli’s Order of Wines—Classification -of M. Batalhai Reis.</p> - -</div> - -<p>In the matter of wine, as in that of beer, it is -perhaps as well to commence with a dictionary -description or definition. Ogilvie declares it to be the -“fermented juice of the grape, or fruit of the vine.” -It is, however, also the juice of certain fruits, prepared -in imitation of wine obtained from grapes, but distinguished -by naming the source whence it is derived, -as currant wine, gooseberry wine, etc.; and a third -meaning of wine—a meaning with which we have -happily little to do—is the effect of drinking wine in -excess, or intoxication.<a id="FNanchor_17" href="#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a></p> - -<p>Wines are practically distinguished by their colour, -flavour, stillness or effervescence, and what is known -as hardness or softness. The differences in quality<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53"></a>[53]</span> -depend on the vines, the soils, the exposure of the -vineyards, the treatment of the grapes, and the mode -of manufacture. The alcohol<a id="FNanchor_18" href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> contained is the leading -characteristic. In strong ports and sherries this varies -from about 16 to 25 per cent. It is about 7 per cent. -in claret, hock, and other so-called light wines. Wine -containing about 13 per cent. of alcohol may be assumed -to be <i>fortified</i>, as it is called, with brandy or -other spirit.</p> - -<p>The varieties of wine produced are said to be -“almost endless.” This great number of wines is in -some measure owing to an interesting fact mentioned -by Miller in his <i>Organic Chemistry</i> (3rd ed. p. 187), -who tells us that a particular variety of grape, when -grown upon the Rhine, furnishes a species of hock; -the same grape, when raised in the valley of the -Tagus, yields Bucellas, in which the palate of a connoisseur -may possibly detect the flavour of hock; -whilst in the island of Madeira the same grape -produces the wine known as <i>Sercial</i>, which, though -generally allowed to be a delicious wine, has suggested, -it seems, to no skilled palate the flavour either of -Bucellas or of hock.</p> - -<p>It would therefore be more logical to commence an -article on wines with an article on the grapes from -which they are produced, but we fear it would be far<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54"></a>[54]</span> -less interesting. Of the chemical composition of wine, -and of its <i>uses in health and disease</i>, on which so many -books from the days of old have been already written, -we shall, in accordance with our preface, say nothing -at all, or very little. Every person who feels himself -or herself interested in this latter matter may learn as -much as he or she will from the pages of the <i>Lancet</i>, -while Professor Mulder has probably written enough -about the former to satisfy the most anxious student.</p> - -<p>The origin of most things is obscure. Treatises -have been composed about that of wine. We have no -intention of reproducing aught of them in the present -work. Let us be content to suppose that wine had its -origin, again like most things, somewhere at some -time in the East. The date of its introduction into -Greece is no more known than that of its introduction -into Italy. A traditional credit is due to Saturn, to -Noah, and to Bacchus as early wine manufacturers. -Certainly in Palestine they had the advantage of fine -grapes. On the well-known historic occasion of Moses -sending men to search the land of Canaan, in the time -of the first ripe fruit, we learn that when they came -unto the brook of Eshcol, they cut down from thence -a branch with one cluster of grapes and “bare it between -two upon a staff.” It has been perhaps somewhat -hastily assumed that the fruit was therefore -necessarily of a large size. There may have been other -reasons for this proceeding than an enormity of weight. -But if, as is generally imagined, these grapes were -unusually fine and large, wine makers would be clearly -benefited thereby. In support of this interpretation of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55"></a>[55]</span> -the passage in Numbers, Strabo has declared that -some of the grapes in the Holy Land measured two -feet in length; and Reland has not hesitated to declare, -as if unwilling to be outdone by Strabo, that some -bunches are of ten pounds weight.</p> - -<p>This prefatory matter could make no pretence to -completeness if it omitted an instruction for the -service of wines, denoting the order in which they -should be drank at the dinner table, which has already -been given by an adept. Whether the matter is more -admirable, or the style, it is difficult to determine.</p> - -<p>“I would recommend,” says Francatelli, “all <i>bon -vivants</i> desirous of testing and thoroughly enjoying a -variety of delectable wines, without being incommoded -by the diversity of those introduced for their learned -degustation, to bear in mind that they should be drunk -in the following order;” viz., “When it happens that -oysters preface the dinner, a glass of Chablis or Sauterne -is their most proper accompaniment.”</p> - -<p>After soup of any kind, genuine old Madeira, East -India Sherry, or Amontillado are recommended as -“welcome stomachics.” But you are to avoid, as you -value your health, drinking punch after Turtle soup, -especially Roman punch. With fish, a large variety -of wines, such as Pouilly, Meursault, Montrachet, -Barsac, and generally all dry white wines, is allowed. -With the entrées you are permitted to drink any -variety of Bordeaux or Burgundy.</p> - -<p>Second course and dessert wines are given at too -great a length to admit of reproduction. About these a -“question of the highest importance” arises as to which<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56"></a>[56]</span> -should be preferred. But here Francatelli remembers -a fact which might have spared him his vast labour on -this service of wines: that “it is difficult, not to say -impossible, to lay down rules for the guidance of the -palate.” The sanguine person, we are told, will prefer -the <i>genuine</i> Champagne; the phlegmatic, Sherry or -Madeira. The splenetic and melancholy man will be -prone to select Roussillon and Burgundy. The bilious -will imbibe Bordeaux. In few words, “Burgundy is -aphrodisiac, Champagne is captious, Roussillon restorative, -and Bordeaux stomachic.” By careful attention -to the foregoing remarks, the reader will happily be -preserved from any serious mistake in the matter of -his dinner. But other meals must also be taken into -consideration, about which Francatelli preserves a -Sibylline and mysterious silence. For instance, -luncheon. We learn, however, from another source -that there are luncheon sherries and dessert sherries. -With lunch the brown, rich, and full-bodied Raro may -be suitably drunk; but the pale Solera and the soft yet -nutty Oloroso should make their appearance at dessert -alone.</p> - -<p>M. Batalhai Reis, Consul for Portugal at Newcastle-on-Tyne, -in a report on the wine trade of England, -has troubled himself thus in the interests of posterity -to classify the wines of the world.</p> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Class I.—Table Wines.</span></p> - -<p>Alcohol and sugar imperceptible. Taste acid and -astringent.</p> - -<p>Division A. Red.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57"></a>[57]</span></p> - -<p>Group 1. <i>Acid.</i> Examples: Inferior Bordeaux and -Burgundies, Wines from North of Portugal.</p> - -<p>Group 2. <i>Astringent.</i> Examples: Superior -Bordeaux and Burgundies, Collares from Portugal.</p> - -<p>Division B. White.</p> - -<p>Group 1. Simple Flavour. Example: Rhine -Wines.</p> - -<p>Group 2. Complex Flavour. Example: Bucellas -of Portugal.</p> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Class II.—Transition Wines.</span></p> - -<p>Alcohol and sugar perceptible. Taste astringent. -Flavour complex.</p> - -<p>Division A. Red. Examples: Many Spanish and -Portuguese wines.</p> - -<p>Division B. White. Examples: Many Spanish -and Portuguese wines.</p> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Class III.—Generous Wines.</span></p> - -<p>1st Family. Madeira type. Wines of the Canaries, -Azores, Lisbon; Carcanellas, Sherry, Marsala, and -Cyprian wines.</p> - -<p>2nd Family. Port type.</p> - -<p>3rd Family. Tokay, Malaga.</p> - -<p>4th Family. Château Yquem, Johannisberg, -Steinberg.</p> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Class IV.—Sparkling Wines.</span></p> - -<p>Group A. Natural.</p> - -<p>Group B. Artificial.</p> - -<p>This division of the wines of the world is presented -to the reader as a literary curiosity. It is at once<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58"></a>[58]</span> -simple and scientific. In a word, no book on wines -can be considered complete without it. In the succeeding -pages Wines as Beers are, for convenience -of reference, arranged after the alphabetical order of -their countries.</p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="smcap">Africa</span>: Constantias—Rota—Mascara. <span class="smcap">America</span>: Catawbas—Muscatel—Chacoli—Mosto. -<span class="smcap">Australia</span>: Carbinet—Kaludah—Verdeilho—Conatto. -<span class="smcap">Canaries</span>: Vidueño—Sack. <span class="smcap">England</span>: -Home-made Wines.</p> - -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Africa.</span></h3> - -<p>Of this country the most important wines of the -present are, perhaps, Pontac, Hanepoot, Frontignac, -and Drakenstein. On the wines of the Cape of -Good Hope, Dr. Edward Kretschmar is a great -authority. <i>Kokwyn</i>, made from Muscat grapes, resembles -Malaga. The best dry white wines, called -Cape Hocks, are produced in the village of <i>Paarl</i>. -The <i>Constantias</i>, so called from the wife of the Dutch -governor, Van der Stell, are of three kinds. These -excellent sweet wines are too frequently falsified and -adulterated before reaching the palate of the English -consumer. A red wine, called <i>Rota</i>, is made at -Stellenbosch. Cape Madeira is a boiled and mixed -wine. Stein wine is excellent when old. Red -Cape, when drunk in the country, is a “sound, good -wine,” says Cyrus Redding.<a id="FNanchor_19" href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> The wine of Morocco -is chiefly made by the Jews; it is light, acid, and will -not keep. In Tetuan a wine is made nearly equal, -according to Cyrus Redding, to the Spanish wine of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59"></a>[59]</span> -Xeres. Palm wines are, of course, common. The -people of Cacongo prepare a wine called <i>Embeth</i>, and -those of Benin <i>Pali</i> and <i>Pardon</i>. The Caffres make -a wine called <i>Pombie</i>, from millet or Guinea corn.<a id="FNanchor_20" href="#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> In -Congo they drink a wine called <i>Milaffo</i>, which will not -keep beyond three days.</p> - -<p>Of the many wines produced at Algiers, the best is -probably the white wine of <i>Mascara</i>, situated on a -slope of the plane of Egbris, 1,800 feet above the sea -level. The Arabic name of the place is a corruption -of <i>Umm-al-asakir</i>, or the Mother of Soldiers. The -wine is the principal industry of Algiers. It is eagerly -bought up by agents of Bordeaux houses. Wines of -inferior quality are made at Boue, Tlemcen, Medeah, -and Milianah. The wines of <i>Oran</i> are said to resemble -the small wines of Languedoc. In ancient times -the valley of the Nile produced the wines of Mareotis, -Mendes, Koptos, and Arsinoe, and its Delta the -liqueur wine of Sebenytus.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">America.</span></h3> - -<p>The first attempt to cultivate the vine in North -America was made, we are informed by Drs. Thudichum -and Dupré, in 1564. Some of its best known -wines at the present time are the <i>Catawbas</i><a id="FNanchor_21" href="#Footnote_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> (still and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60"></a>[60]</span> -sparkling), red <i>Aliso</i> and <i>Angelico</i>. Wine has been -made from the vines on the Ohio, said to resemble -Bordeaux in quality. In several parts of Mexico, as -at Passo del Norte, at Zalaya, and at St. Louis de la -Paz, wines are made of tolerable flavour. The red -wine of California is agreeable. In Florida, according -to Sir John Hawkins, wine was made from a grape -like that of Orleans, as far back as 1564. The island -of Cuba possesses a “light, cool, sharp wine,” according -to Redding.</p> - -<p>In South America wine was made long ago in -Paraguay. A sweet wine resembling Malaga is -made at Mendoza, at the foot of the Andes, and is -found to improve by transportation some thousand -miles across the Pampas. The wines made in Chili -and Peru are white and red. The <i>Muscatel</i> of Chili -is considered to be especially good.<a id="FNanchor_22" href="#Footnote_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> The white wine -of <i>Nasca</i> is inferior. The wine of <i>Pisco</i> is highly -esteemed. Though the white is held by connoisseurs -to be superior to the red wine of Chili, yet -it is little drunk in the cradle of its production. -<i>Chacoli</i> is a wine commonly patronised by labourers. -The <i>Mosto</i> of <i>Concepcion</i> differs from <i>Mosto asoleado</i> -by the grapes of the latter being sundried for some -twenty days.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Australia.</span></h3> - -<p>Australian wines are pretty well known from our -tradesmen’s circulars. For instance, there is the -<i>Gouais</i>, the <i>Carbinet</i>, a soft wine like Burgundy, the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_61"></a>[61]</span> -<i>Mataro</i>, the <i>Sauvignon</i>. There is that “elegant -dinner wine,” <i>Kaludah</i>, the Singleton Red or White -<i>Hermitage</i>, “noted for its refinement”; the <i>Tintara -Ferruginous</i>, of “immense power and generous -quality”; the <i>Tokay Imperatrice</i>; and the <i>Alexandrian -Moscat</i>, both poetically described as “abounding in -memories of the sun which begot them,” and possessing -the “most beautiful bouquet that can be imagined,” -with a flavour “resembling the first crush in the -mouth of three or four fine ripe Muscatel grapes—the -large white oval ones—covered with a light bloom, -and attached to a clean, thin stalk.”</p> - -<p>Drs. Thudichum and Dupré, who are themselves -indebted to a publication by Toovey, have given an -excellent description of these wines. <i>Verdeilho</i> is a -wine, like Madeira, of delicate aroma and a full body; -<i>Frontignac</i> is described as a thin white wine with a -slight taste of the Muscat grape, being a fictitious elderflower -flavour; <i>Malbee</i> is described as made from -“claret” grape; <i>Tavoora</i> is described as a pure -“port” of 1859; <i>Tintara</i>, a red, clear wine; <i>Adelaide</i>, -a pure white wine, mainly from <i>Riessling</i> grapes with -a <i>soupçon</i> of Muscatel, “a little too fiery for greatness.” -<i>Wattlesville</i> is an acidulous white wine. The -poor and acid <i>Chasselas</i>, the strong-scented <i>Highercombe</i>, -said to resemble good Sauterne, with many -varieties of so-called claret, as <i>Emu</i>, <i>St. Hubert</i>, and -so-called Hock, as <i>Heron</i> and <i>Royal Reserve</i>, are -also imported from Australia. The <i>Conatto</i> is a rich -liqueur with a flavour of Curaçoa and Rum Shrub -combined.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_62"></a>[62]</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Canaries.</span></h3> - -<p>The Canary Islands have long been celebrated for -their wines. The favourite Teneriffe wine is <i>Vidueño</i> -or <i>Vidonia</i>. Canary <i>sack</i> is supposed to have been -made from the <i>Malvasia</i> sweet grape, whereas the -modern sack is dry (<i>sec</i>). The best vineyards are at -Orotava, S. Ursula, Ycod de los Vinos, Buenavista, -and Valle de Guerra.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">England.</span></h3> - -<p>British made wines hold no very high rank. A -cheap foreign manufacture is, according to some of -their vendors, gradually ousting them from the market. -But at one time they formed a part of the education -of the good housewives of Great Britain. Home wines -were chiefly made from plums, apples, gooseberries, -bilberries, elderberries, blackberries, currants (red and -black), raspberries, cherries, cowslips, parsnips, raisins, -greengages, damsons, ginger, oranges, and lemons. -Less commonly and in former times we had wines from -mulberries, quinces, peaches, apricots, and from the -sap of the birch, beech, sycamore, and other trees. -Years ago “sweets” or home-made wines were sent -from Scotland and Ireland, such as ginger wine and -so-called cherry and raspberry whiskies. The flowers -of meadow-sweet (<i>Spiræa ulmaria</i>) yield a fragrant -distilled water, which is said to be used by wine -merchants to improve the flavour of their wines. In -a little work by Mr. G. Vine on Home-made Wines, -the reader will find numerous receipts how to make -and keep these wines, with observations on gathering<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_63"></a>[63]</span> -and preparing the fruit, fining, bottling, and storing. -A correspondent of the <i>Gardeners’ Chronicle</i> gives a -receipt for <i>beer wine</i>, a beverage which has puzzled -many connoisseurs. The curious may find it also -quoted in Vine’s brochure.</p> - -<p>The manufacture of home-made wines is familiar. -An excellent wine is sometimes made from a mixture -of the fruits above mentioned, as, for instance, that -from gooseberries and currants. All home-made wines -are prone to run into acetous fermentation without the -addition of a due proportion of pure spirits. Plums or -sloes, with other ingredients, can, it is said, be turned -into excellent fruity port, the “very choice” kind, silky, -soft, and full bodied. A wine said to be agreeable is -also made from the red berries of the mountain ash -or service-tree (<i>pyrus aucuparia</i>). Birch wine is still -made in some parts of England. Morewood gives a -long receipt for its manufacture. Like most other -wines, it improves greatly with age. This is especially -true of parsnip wine. From potatoes which have -suffered a sort of malting from frost, a tolerable wine -has been obtained. It is said—but there are people -who will say anything—that a great portion of the -champagne drunk in this country is made from sugar -and green gooseberries. Rhubarb wine has been -affirmed to be synonymous with British champagne. -The reader anxious on this subject may consult Dr. -Shannon’s elaborate <i>Treatise on Brewing</i>. Cowslip -wine is all too like some of the Muscatel wines of -Southern France, and the wine of the <i>Sambucus nigra</i> -has been more than once, through some unlucky -accident, confused with Frontignac.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_64"></a>[64]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header7.jpg" width="500" height="300" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h3>FRENCH WINES.</h3> - -<p>The Great Makers of Champagne—Its Manufacture—Bottling—Treatment—Bordeaux -or Claret—Its early Use and Name—Whence -it comes—The different Growths—White Wines of the -District—Burgundy—Different Growths and Qualities—Other -Wines.</p> - -</div> - -<h4><span class="smcap">Champagne.</span></h4> - -<p>Reims and Epernay are the two great centres -of the Champagne district; but Reims, from -its size and antiquity, must be considered its capital. -Here are the establishments of Pommery & Greno, -Ernest Moy, Théophile Roederer & Co., Louis -Roederer & Co., Henriot & Co., Permet & Fils, -De St. Marceaux & Co., Werlé & Co. (successors to -the renowned Veuve Cliquot), Heidsieck & Co., De -Lossy & Co., G. H. Mumm & Co., Jules Mumm & -Co., Piper & Co., and many others of lesser note.</p> - -<p>The wines of this district have, for centuries, been -famous, and especially beloved of kings and potentates.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_65"></a>[65]</span> -Our Henry VIII. had a vineyard at Ay, and, in order -to know that he got the genuine article, he had a -superintendent of his own on the spot. Francis I., -Leo X., and Charles V. of Spain, all had vineyards -in the Champagne district. But the wine they obtained -thence was not sparkling: that was to come -later, and is said to have been the invention of Dom -Petrus Perignon, who died in 1715, monk of, and -cellarer to, the Royal Monastery of St. Peter’s at -Hautvilliers. He was especially happy in his blends -of wine, and having found out the secret of highly -charging the wine, naturally, with carbonic acid, is -said to have introduced the cork and string necessary -to confine it in its bottles.</p> - -<p>Champagne Wine owes its goodness, in the first -place, to the soil on which it is grown, which is unique -in its mixture of chalk, silica, light clay, and oxide -of iron; in the second, to the very great care and -delicate manipulation which the wine receives. Every -doubtful grape is discarded, and the carts conveying -the grapes from the vineyard go at a most funereal -pace, so that none of their precious contents should -get bruised; for if these little grapes (for they are little -larger than currants) get at all crushed, or partly -fermented, in carriage, the fruit is rendered absolutely -worthless for Champagne purposes.</p> - -<p>Very great care, too, is exercised in the pressing. -The grapes are laid in carefully stacked heaps upon -the floor of the press, where they are left for a time, -and then the first gentle, but firm, sustained squeeze -is applied. The juice thus extracted is the cream of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_66"></a>[66]</span> -the grape, and is used only for the finest brands. -There are six of these squeezes made, each more -powerful than the last; and the result of each is, of -course, inferior in quality to its predecessor, till the -sixth, called the <i>rébêche</i>,<a id="FNanchor_23" href="#Footnote_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> is reached, which produces a -coarse wine, reckoned only fit to be given to the -workmen.</p> - -<p>The must begins to ferment more or less quickly, -according to the temperature, in the casks, at the end -of ten or twelve hours, and the process continues for -a considerable time, during which the colour changes -from pale pink to a light straw tint. About three -months are allowed to elapse, when the fermentation -stops through repeated rackings and the cold of the -season.</p> - -<p>And now the real trouble of the Champagne manufacturer -begins. First, there is the blend, which -varies in the case of each manufacturer. The produce -of the different vineyards is mixed in enormous vats, -according to the recipe in vogue in the particular -establishment, and to this mixture is added, if necessary, -a proportion of some old wine of a superior -vintage. A most subtle, carefully educated, and -exquisite taste is required to discern when the wine, -in this crude state, has acquired the proper flavour -and bouquet. Then comes the important point of -effervescence—a source of much anxiety to the manufacturer,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_67"></a>[67]</span> -for the extremest care is required to regulate -the quantity of carbonic acid gas, so that there shall -be neither too little nor too much. For if there be -too little, the wine will be flat; and if there be too -much, the bottles will burst by thousands. An instrument, -called a <i>glucometer</i>, or <i>saccharometer</i>, is used to -measure the amount of saccharine matter in the wine -at this point; and if the necessary standard be not -reached, the deficiency is supplied by the purest sugar -candy. To the ordinary palate, at this stage it differs -in no respect from still white wine, of somewhat tart -flavour, and is now drawn off into other casks to -undergo the next treatment in the process; viz., the -fining, to make it bright, and remove what is known -to connoisseurs of wine as “ropiness.”</p> - -<p>The wine is now ready for bottling, and the danger -to be avoided is the bursting of the bottles, for the -pressure of the gas is tremendous; hence it is that the -champagne bottle is the most solid and massive in use. -The bottling takes place, as a rule, about eight months -after the grapes have been first pressed, and the precautions -against breakage are of the most minute -description. The instant any symptoms of bursting -display themselves, the wine has to be removed to a -cooler temperature; but even with every precaution, -the loss sustained by the bursting of bottles is often -very serious indeed, sometimes to an almost ruinous -extent. The risk of breakage is generally almost past -by the end of October, and the bottles are then kept -in the cellars for a period ranging from eighteen -months to three years, according to the custom of -the establishment.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_68"></a>[68]</span></p> - -<p>But even now all is not over, for, during this period, -a sediment, resulting from the fermentation of the -wine, has been deposited, which must be removed -before the wine is ready for consumption; and very -troublesome work it is to get rid of this sediment. -The bottles are placed in a slanting direction with the -necks downward, and the angle of inclination is altered -from time to time till they stand almost perpendicular, -whilst every time the position is changed, the bottle -is sharply twisted round, so that the sediment may not -cling to the sides. Finally, the deposit collects in a -ball in the neck of the bottle, from whence it is “disgorged”—literally -blown out—when the original cork -is removed. A temporary stopper is then inserted -until the liqueur, which is to give the wine its distinctive -character, dry or sweet, is introduced. This liquor -consists of a preparation of the very finest sugar candy, -the best Champagne, and the oldest and purest Cognac.</p> - -<p>The next process is corking, and, as we all know, -champagne corks are not as other corks. They are -made larger than the vent of the bottle, and are -soaked in water, and very often steamed. They are -somewhat expensive, the best corks used costing -about threepence each; but it is a very false economy -to use common corks, for the gas would escape. The -pliant cork is placed in a machine which pinches it -and compresses it to the size of the aperture of the -bottle, and holds it there till a twenty-pound weight -is let drop, on the principle of a pile-driving hammer, -and drives the cork in firmly. The powerful leverage -used to bring down the edge of the cork for wiring<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_69"></a>[69]</span> -and stringing, imparts the round-shaped top peculiar -to champagne corks. The bottles, after being corked -and wired, are allowed to rest for two or three months, -in order that the wine and the liqueur may properly -amalgamate, and are then tinselled and labelled, ready -for the consumer; but some of the best wines are kept -for years to mature, and are, of course, of far higher -value.</p> - -<p>A sweet Champagne may be made of any wine, but -a dry Champagne must be a good wine, as, if it is not -sound, its acidity is detected at once; but this defect -would be hidden by the liqueur necessary to make it -sweet.</p> - -<p>At Epernay, the bulk of the wine is not so good as -that coming from Reims, and sells at a lower price; -but there are firms there of world-wide note, such -as Moet & Chandon, Perrier, Joüet & Co., Meunier -Frères, Wachter & Co., etc.</p> - -<h4><span class="smcap">Bordeaux or Claret.</span></h4> - -<p>In England we generally call the wines coming -from Bordeaux, <i>Clarets</i>, the derivation of which -cognomen is somewhat obscure; but it seems almost -universally accepted that it comes from the French -word <i>Clairet</i>, which is used even at the present time -as a generic term for the <i>vins ordinaires</i> of a light and -thin quality, grown in the south of France, and was -in use from a very early date. The old French poet, -Olivier Basselin (who died 1418 or 1419), sings:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Beau nez, dont les rubis ont coûté mainte pipe</div> - <div class="verse indent4">De vin blanc et clairet ...”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_70"></a>[70]</span></p> -<p>There was, however, another Claret, a compounded -wine, resembling <i>hypocras</i>, which Giraldus Cambrensis, -who lived in the twelfth century, classes thus: “Claretum, -mustum, et medonem” (Claret, must, and mead). -And the venerable Franciscan, Bartholomew Glanville,<a id="FNanchor_24" href="#Footnote_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> -says: “Claretum, ex vino et melle et speciebus -aromaticis est confectum” (Claret is made from wine, -honey, and aromatic spices). It makes a marked -feature in a curious tenure.<a id="FNanchor_25" href="#Footnote_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> “John de Roches holds -the Manor of Winterslew, in the county of Wilts, by -the Service, that when our Lord the King should -abide at Clarendon, he should come to the Palace of -the King there, and go into the Butlery, and draw out -of any vessel he should find in the said Butlery at -his choice, as much Wine as should be needful for -making (<i>pro factura</i>) a Pitcher of Claret (<i>unius Picheri -Claretti</i>), which he should make at the King’s charge, -and that he should serve the King with a Cup, and -should have the vessel from whence he took the Wine, -with all the Remainder of the Wine left in the Vessel, -together with the Cup from whence the King should -drink that Claret.” This refers to a roll of 50 Ed. -III., or 1376.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus22.jpg" width="500" height="600" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">FROM THE “COMPOST ET KALENDRIER DES BERGERES,” 1499.</p> -</div> - -<p>But this is not the Claret of our days, which is the -wine produced in the countries watered by the rivers -Dordogne and Garonne and the Gironde, at least it -should be so; but, in truth, owing to the good railway -communication, wine comes to Bordeaux from every<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_71"></a>[71]</span> -part of France, large quantities owing their birth to -the banks of the Rhone, from the Hérault, Roussillon, -etc.; and a judicious blending at Bordeaux, and its -being shipped thence, is a very good title to its being -grown in the Médoc; but the quantity shipped to all -parts of the world, compared with the acreage of -growth, entirely precludes the supposition that it<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72"></a>[72]</span> -possibly could have been the production of that -district.</p> - -<p>The nobility of the Médoc wines is small. There -are only four <i>premiers crûs</i>, but they are magnificent. -They are Château Lafitte, Château Latour, Château -Margaux, and Château Haut-Brion; and all these, -especially the Latour, have a flavour and seductive -<i>bouquet</i> all their own, which is believed to arise from -an extremely volatile oil contained in the grape skins, -which, like all ethers, requires time to evolve and -mature. But the soil, undoubtedly, has most to do -with it, and this must be in a very large degree composed -of fragments of rock, small and large, while the -smooth round pebbles reflect the rays of the sun and -throw them upwards, so as almost to surround the -grapes with light and heat. Again, these stones -absorbing the sun’s rays during the day, give out -warmth after sunset, whilst they keep the roots of the -vines cool, and prevent to a great degree the evaporation -of the natural and necessary moisture of the -earth.</p> - -<p>But these <i>premiers crûs</i> are not always good; for -instance, in 1869, Messrs. Fulcher & Baines, wine -brokers, sold by auction a very large parcel of -Château Margaux for about 30<i>s.</i> per dozen. There -was no doubt but that it was genuine wine, bottled -at the Château, for the cases and corks were all -properly branded; but of such low quality was it, or -it deteriorated so rapidly, that when sold again in -1871 the same wine only averaged 18<i>s.</i> per dozen.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_73"></a>[73]</span></p> - -<table summary="2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th Growths"> - <tr> - <td colspan="3" class="tdc"><i>The 2nd Growths are</i>:—</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Mouton,</td> - <td>coming from</td> - <td><i>Pauillac</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Rauzan-Segla,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Margaux</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Rauzan-Gassies,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Léoville-Las Cases,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>St. Julien</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Léoville-Poyféré,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Léoville-Barton,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Durfort-Vivens,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Margaux</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Lascombes,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Gruard-La rose-Sarg,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>St. Julien</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Gruard-La rose,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Braune-Cantenac,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Cantenac</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Pichon-Longueville,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Pauillac</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Pichon-Longueville-Lalande,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Ducru-Beaucaillou,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>St. Julien</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Cos-Destournel,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>St. Estèphe</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Montrose,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="3" class="tdc"><i>3rd Growths.</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Kirwan,</td> - <td>coming from</td> - <td><i>Cantenac</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Château-d’Issau,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Lagrange,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>St. Julien</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Langoa,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Château-Giscours,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Labarde</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Malescot-St. Exupéry,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Margaux</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Cantenac-Brown,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Cantenac</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Palmer,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>La Lagune,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Ludon</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Desmirail,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Margaux</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Calon-Ségur,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>St. Estèphe</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Ferrière,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Margaux</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>M. d’Alesmeis Becker,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_74"></a>[74]</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="3" class="tdc"><i>4th Growths.</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>St. Pierre,</td> - <td>coming from</td> - <td><i>St. Julien</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Branair-Duluc,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Talbot,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Duhart-Milon,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Pauillac</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Poujet,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Cantenac</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>La Tour-Carnet,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>St. Laurent</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Rochet,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>St. Estèphe</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Château-Beychevelle,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>St. Julien</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>La Prieuré,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Cantenac</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Marquis de Therme,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Margaux</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="3" class="tdc"><i>5th Growths.</i></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Pontet-Canet,</td> - <td>coming from</td> - <td><i>Pauillac</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Batailley,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Grand-Puy-Lacoste,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Ducasse-Grand-Puy,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Pauillac</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Lynch-Bages,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Lynch-Moussas,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Dauzac,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Labarde</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Moulton d’Armailhacq,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Pauillac</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Le Tertre,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Arsac</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Haut-Bages,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Pauillac</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Pédesclaux,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Belgrave,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>St. Laurent</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Camensac,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Cos-Labory,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>St. Estèphe</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Clerc-Milon,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Pauillac</i>.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Croizet-Bages,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Cantemerle,</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td><i>Macau</i>.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_75"></a>[75]</span></p> - -<p>These are only some of the wines of the Médoc, -so that I may be excused from recapitulating the -names of the different growths of the Graves, the -Pays de Sauternes, the Côtes, the Palus, and those of -Entredeux Mers—their name is legion, and it would -answer no good purpose. Cocks, in his <i>Bordeaux -and its Wines</i>, gives a list of 1,900 of the <i>principal -growths</i>, so that we can have a good choice of names -from which to christen our “Shilling Gladstone.”</p> - -<p>The wines of Bordeaux used to be greatly drank -in England until the great wars with France—in the -last century, when, of course, their importation was -prohibited—but, even then, large quantities were -smuggled. They must, however, have been of better -quality than the cheap stuff now imported. In Scotland, -where an affinity with France always existed, it -was a common drink, and very cheap; for in Campbell’s -<i>Life of Lord Loughborough</i> (vi. 29), we find -that excellent claret was drawn from the cask at -eighteenpence a quart: and its downfall as a -beverage in Scotland is thus sung by John Home, -probably in allusion to the Methuen Treaty of 1703.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Firm and erect the Caledonian stood,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Prime was his mutton, and his claret good:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Let him drink port, an English Statesman cried;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">He drank the poison, and his spirit died.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>The white wines of these districts are delicious, -and are not sufficiently appreciated in England, -where we know very little of the Sauternes, Bommes, -Barsac, Fargues, St. Pierre de Mons, Preignac, and -those of Petits Graves and the Côtes. Chief of all is<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_76"></a>[76]</span> -the wine of Château d’Yquem, of which Vizitelly<a id="FNanchor_26" href="#Footnote_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> thus -writes:—</p> - -<p>“Among the white wines of the Gironde which -obtained the higher class reward, two require to be -especially mentioned. One, the renowned Château -d’Yquem of the Marquis de Lur Saluces, the most -luscious and delicately aromatic of wines, which, for -its resplendent colour, resembling liquid gold, its -exquisite bouquet, and rich, delicious flavour, due, -according to the chemists, to the presence of Mannite, -is regarded in France as unique, and which, at -Vienna, naturally met with the recognition of a medal -for progress.</p> - -<p>“Mannite, the distinguished French chemist Berthelot -informs us, has the peculiar quality of not becoming -transformed into alcohol and carbonic acid during -the process of fermentation. For a tonneau of this -splendid wine twelve years old, bought direct from -the Château, the Grand Duke Constantine paid, some -few years since, 20,000 francs, or £800. The other -wine calling for notice was La Tour Blance, one of -those magnificent, liqueur-like Sauternes, ranking -immediately after Château d’Yquem, and to some fine -samples of which, of the vintages of 1864 and 1865, -a medal for merit was awarded.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_77"></a>[77]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus23.jpg" width="700" height="460" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">THE DILETTANTE SOCIETY.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_78"></a>[78]</span></p> - -<p class="caption">In this illustration of “the Dilettante Society” we find that Noblemen -and Gentlemen such as Lord Mulgrave, Lord Seaforth, Hon. -Chas. Greville, Charles Crowle, and the Duke of Leeds, drank their -claret out of the black bottle—dispensing with the decanter altogether.</p> - -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_79"></a>[79]</span></p> - -<p>“The characteristic qualities of Château d’Yquem, -which certain <i>soi-disant</i> connoisseurs pretend to pooh-pooh, -as a mere ordinary <i>vin de liqueur</i>, are due, in -no degree, to simple accident. On the contrary, the -vintaging of this wine is an extremely complicated -and delicate affair. In order to insure the excessive -softness and rich liqueur character which are its distinguishing -qualities, the grapes, naturally excessively -sweet and juicy, are allowed to dry on their stalks, -preserved, as it were, by the rays of the sun, until -they become covered with a kind of down, which -gives to them an almost mouldy appearance. During -this period, the fruit, under the influence of the sun, -ferments within its skin, thereby attaining the requisite -degree of ripeness, akin to rottenness.</p> - -<p>“On the occasion of the vintage, as it is absolutely -essential that the grapes should be gathered, not only -when perfectly dry, but also warm, the cutters never -commence work until the sun has attained a certain -height, and invariably suspend their labours when -rain threatens, or mists begin to rise. At the first -gathering they detach simply the <i>graines rôties</i>, or -such grapes as have dried after arriving at proper -maturity, rejecting those which have shrivelled without -thoroughly ripening, and, from the former, a wine -of extreme softness and density, termed <i>crème de tête</i>, -is produced.</p> - -<p>“By the time the first gathering has terminated, -other grapes will have sufficiently ripened and rotted, -or dried, and both sorts are now detached, yielding -the wine called <i>vin de tête</i>, distinguished by equal -softness with the <i>crème de tête</i>, but combined with a -larger amount of alcohol, and greater delicacy of -flavour. At this point, a delay generally ensues, -according to the state of the weather, it being requisite,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_80"></a>[80]</span> -towards the end of October, to wait while the -rays of the sun, combined with the night dews, bring -the remainder of the grapes to maturity, when the -third gathering takes place, from which the wine, -termed <i>centre</i>, frequently very fine and spirituous, is -produced. Another delay now ensues, and then commences -the final gathering, when all the grapes remaining -on the stalks are picked, which, when the -vintage has been properly conducted, is usually only -a very small quantity, yielding what is termed the -<i>vin de queue</i>.”</p> - -<p>However, although it is not given to all of us to be -able to afford Château d’Yquem, yet there are many -of the other white wines of France, which are within -ordinary limits, and which compare more than favourably -with the red wines.</p> - -<h4><span class="smcap">Burgundy and other Wines.</span></h4> - -<p>Verily there cannot be much amiss with wine that -causes a holy man (by profession) to break forth into -song as follows:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Nous les boirons lentement,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Nous les boirons tendrement,</div> - <div class="verse indent4">Ton Clos Vougeot, ton Romanée:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Par nous la sainte liqueur,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Qui nous rechauffe le cœur,</div> - <div class="verse indent4">Ne sera jamais profanée.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>More generous than the wines of Bordeaux, it has -been the drink of Kings and Popes, and perhaps no -vineyard has a similar honour done it as that of Clos-Vougeot -(Napoleon’s favourite wine); for when a -French regiment marches past that celebrated vineyard,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_81"></a>[81]</span> -it halts, and presents arms. On the golden -slope—the Côte d’Or—is grown this wine of Burgundy, -and the <i>vignerons</i> divide the district into two -parts, the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune, the -first of which produces the finest wines, from Vosne -especially, whence come Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, -Richebourg, Romanée-St. Vivant, La Grande Rue, -Gaudichat, Malconsort, and others; but of all these -Romanée Conti is king. Unfortunately the yield of -this vineyard is very small, and genuine Romanée is -seldom to be met with. But there are plenty of good -wines to be bought at moderate prices, those of -Chambertin, Volnay, Beaune, Mâcon, and Beaujolais. -Chief among the white Burgundies is Chablis; but -there are other sorts, not half enough drank in England—Mâcon, -Pouilly, Meursault, Chevalier-Montrachet, -Montrachet-Ainé, and many other fine white wines. -Sparkling Burgundy is not to be despised.</p> - -<p>The Côtes du Rhone produce fine wines, too, such -as Hermitage, Côte Rôtie, Condrieu, and St. Peray; -but of these, perhaps, Hermitage red and white are -best known to us.</p> - -<p>Much wine is made in the South of France, in the -departments of the Hérault, the Gard, the Aude, and -the Pyrenées-Orientales, whilst Languedoc has always -been famous for its wines, which are very similar to -some Spanish varieties. Roussillon is nearly as good -as Burgundy, and, after being manipulated at Cette, is -often palmed off as “Vintage Port,” and the Muscat -wines of the Hérault and the Pyrenées-Orientales are -particularly luscious, especially those from Lunel.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_82"></a>[82]</span></p> - -<p>Some wines come from Corsica, but they do not find -their way, as such, into the English market; no doubt, -though, but we have them in some shape, for the -mystifications of the wine trade are stupendous, and, -to an outsider, unfathomable.</p> - -<p class="right">J. A.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> -<img src="images/footer1.jpg" width="400" height="350" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_83"></a>[83]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="smcap">Germany</span>: Rhine Wines—Heidelberg Tun—Hock—Stein-wein—Asmannhäuser—Straw -Wines—Goethe’s Opinion of Wine -<span class="smcap">Greece</span>: Verdea—Vino Santo—The Wine of Night. <span class="smcap">Hungary</span>: -Maszlacz—Tokay—Carlowitz—Erlauer. <span class="smcap">Italy</span>: Monte -Pulciano—Chianti—Barolo—Barbera—Montefiascone—Lacryma -Christi, etc. <span class="smcap">Madeira</span>: Malvasia—Tinta—Bual, etc. -<span class="smcap">Persia</span>: Shiraz.</p> - -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Germany.</span></h3> - -<p>The Germans, says Cyrus Redding, like vain men -of other nations, have wasted a good deal of idle conjecture -on the antiquity of the culture of the vine in -their country; and then, as though to show by example -that this waste of idle conjecture is not confined to -the Germans, Mr. Redding continues the investigation -of this important matter himself. In the opinion -of an experienced merchant these wines have a “distinct -character and classification of their own.” Their -alcoholic strength is low, averaging about 18 per cent.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus24.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">This illustration dates 1608 as “A Sciographie or Modell of that -stupendous vessel which is at this day shewed in the Pallace of the -Count Palatine of Rhene in the citie of Heidelberg.” A model of -this Tun was shown at the German Exhibition held in London, -1891. Its capacity was eclipsed by a famous <i>tonneau</i>, elaborately -ornamented with allegorical figures, etc., which was shown in the -French Exhibition of 1889. It would hold 200,000 bottles of -Champagne, and came from Epernay. It had to be drawn by a -large team, by road, and the French press was full of its imaginary -adventures on its journey to Paris.</p> -</div> - -<p>To the north of Coblentz the wines are of little -comparative value, though a Rhenish wine has been -produced at Bodendorf, near Bonn. On the Rhine or -its tributary rivers between Coblentz and Mayence, all -the most celebrated wines of Germany are grown. -The grapes preferred for general cultivation are the -Riessling, a small, white, harsh species. The true -<i>Hochheimer</i>, daily consumed in Germany, is grown to -the eastward of Mentz, between there and Frankfort. -The wines mellow best in large vessels, an experience -which has produced the celebrated Heidelberg Tun, -holding some six hundred hogsheads. The distinguishing -characteristics of German wine have been<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_84"></a>[84]</span> -said to be generosity, dryness, fine flavour, and endurance -of age. The dyspeptic will learn with delight -that the strong wines of the Rhine are extremely -salutary, and contain less acid than any other. It is -also averred that they are never saturated with -brandy. <i>Liebfrauenmilch</i><a id="FNanchor_27" href="#Footnote_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> is grown at Worms. It<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_85"></a>[85]</span> -is full bodied, as is that of <i>Scharlachberg</i>. Wines of -<i>Nierstein</i>,<a id="FNanchor_28" href="#Footnote_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> <i>Laubenheim</i>, and <i>Oppenheim</i> are good, but -<i>Deidesheimer</i> is considered superior to them. <i>Hock</i><a id="FNanchor_29" href="#Footnote_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> -is derived from Hochheim; but nearly every town on -the banks of the Rhine gives its name to some lauded -vintage. The flavour of Hock is supposed to be -improved by thin green glasses. Perhaps, says the -judicious Redding, this is mere fancy. The Palatinate -wines are cheaper Hocks. Moselles have a -more delicate perfume. The whole eastern bank of -the Rhine to Lorich, called the Rheingau, about fourteen -miles in extent, has been famous for its wines for -ages. Naturally, therefore, it was once the property -of the Church. Here is <i>Schloss-Johannisberger</i>, once -nearly destroyed by General Hoche, where a leading -Rhine wine is made. <i>Steinberger</i> takes the next rank -to <i>Johannisberger</i>. <i>Gräfenberg</i>, also once ecclesiastical -property, produces wine equal to <i>Rüdesheimer</i>, which is -a wine of the first Rhine growths. <i>Marcobrunner</i>, <i>Roth</i>, -<i>Königsbach</i> are excellent drinks. <i>Bacharach</i> has lost -its former celebrity. The conclusion to which a celebrated<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_86"></a>[86]</span> -connoisseur has arrived after an exhaustive -examination of German wines is this: “On the whole, -the wines of <i>Bischeim</i>, <i>Asmannshäuser</i>, and <i>Laubenheim</i> -are very pleasant wines; those of rather more strength -are <i>Marcobrunner</i>, <i>Rüdesheimer</i> and <i>Niersteiner</i>, while -those of <i>Johannisberg</i>, <i>Geissenheim</i>, and <i>Hochheim</i> give -the most perfect delicacy and aroma.” The Germans -themselves say <i>Rhein-wein, fein-wein; Necker-wein, -lecker-wein; Franken-wein, tranken-wein; Mosel-wein, -unnosel-wein</i>.<a id="FNanchor_30" href="#Footnote_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_87"></a>[87]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus25.jpg" width="500" height="575" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_88"></a>[88]</span></p> - -<p>The red wines of the Rhine are considered inferior -to the white. Red <i>Asmannshäuser</i> is perhaps the -best. Near Lintz <i>Blischert</i> is made. Königsbach -and Altenahr yield ordinary wines. The most celebrated -of Moselle wines is the <i>Brauneberger</i>, of -which the varieties are numerous. A variety called -<i>Gruenhäuser</i> was formerly styled the Nectar of the -Moselle. The wines of Ahr, of which some are red, -resemble Moselles, but will keep longer. Of the wines -of the Neckar the most celebrated is <i>Besigheimer</i>. -Baden, Wiesbaden, Wangen, and Würtzberg, all grow -good wines. Of the last is <i>Stein-wein</i>, produced on -a mountain so called, and named by the Hospital<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_89"></a>[89]</span> -to which it belongs, <i>Wine of the Holy Ghost</i>. <i>Leisten</i> -wines are grown on Mt. Saint Nicolas. <i>Straw</i> wines -are made in Franconia. <i>Calmus</i>, a liqueur wine, like the -sweet wines of Hungary, is made in the territory of -Frankfurt. The best vineyards are those of Bischofsheim. -Wines of Saxony are of little worth. Meissen -and Guben produce the best. Naumburg makes some -small wines, like inferior Burgundy. The excellence -of the Rhine wines has seldom perhaps been proved -more clearly than by one who loved them well. -Goethe, in his <i>Aus einer Reise am Rhein, Main und -Neckar</i>, says: “<i>Niemand schämt sich der Weinlust, sie -rühmen sich einigermaassen des Trinkens. Hübsche -Frauen gestehen dass ihre Kinder mit der Mutterbrust -zugleich Wein geniessen. Wir fragten ob denn wahr -sey, dass es geistlichen Herren, ja Kurfürsten geglückt, -acht Rheinische Maass, das heisst sechzehn unserer Bouteillen, -in vierundzwanzig Stunden zu sich zunehmen? -Ein scheinbar ernsthafter Gast bemerkte, man dürfe -sich zu Beantwortung dieser Frage nur der Fastenpredigt -ihres Weihbischofs erinnern, welcher, nachdem -er das schreckliche Laster der Trunkenheit seiner Gemeinde -mit den stärksten Farben dargestellt, also geschlossen -habe—</i>” But for those who understand not -the German tongue we will give some of the sermon -of this Church dignitary on the Rochusberg in English. -“Those, my pious brethren, commit the greatest sin -who misuse God’s glorious gifts. But the misuse excludes -not the use. Wine, it is written, rejoices man’s -heart. Therefore we are clearly intended to enjoy it. -Now perhaps, beloved brethren, there is not one of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_90"></a>[90]</span> -you who cannot drink two measures of wine without -feeling any ill effects therefrom; he, however, who with -his third or fourth measure has so far forgotten himself -as to abuse, beat and kick his wife and children, -and to treat his dearest friend as his worst enemy, let -such a one discontinue to drink three or four measures, -which thus render him unpleasing to God and -despicable to man. But he who with the fourth measure, -nay, with his fifth or his sixth, still maintains his -sense in such a manner that he can behave properly -to his fellow-Christian, attend to his domestic duties, -and obey his spiritual superiors as he ought, let him -be thankful in modesty for the gift accorded to him. -But let him not advance beyond the sixth measure, -for here commonly is the term set to human power -and endurance. Rare indeed is the occasion in which -the benevolent God has lent a man such especial grace -that he may drink eight measures—a grace which -He has, however, accorded to me His servant. Let, -therefore, every one take only his allotted measure -<i>und auf dass ein solches geschehe, alles Ubermaass dagegen -verbannt sey, handelt sämmtlich nach der Vorschrift -des heiligen Apostels welcher spricht; Prüfet alles und -das Beste behaltet!</i>”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_91"></a>[91]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus26.jpg" width="700" height="400" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">“TASTING THE VINTAGE.”—<i>After</i> Hasenclever.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_92"></a>[92]</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Greece.</span></h3> - -<p>The vinification of Greece is commonly imperfect. -Most of its wines become vinegar in summer. Avoid, -says a well-known guide-book, the wine of this country, -which is generally acid and always impure.<a id="FNanchor_31" href="#Footnote_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> The<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_93"></a>[93]</span> -best Greek wines are those of the islands Ithaca, -Zante, Tenos, Samos, Thera (Santorin),<a id="FNanchor_32" href="#Footnote_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> and Cyprus. -The white wine of Zante, called <i>Verdea</i>, resembles -Madeira in flavour. The wine of Naxos is of considerable -strength, and is greatly improved by age. A -quantity of it, known as <i>Vino Santo</i>, is exported. -Andros was sacred to Dionysus, and a tradition (Plin. -ii. 103; xxxi. 13; Paus. vi. 26) says that for seven -days during a festival of this god the waters of a certain -fountain were changed to wine. The wine did -no credit to the god, if it resembled that which this -island at present produces. The “Nectar” of <i>Morta</i> -is bitter and astringent. Dr. Charnock has recommended -the <i>Monthymet</i> as a good mild wine, and the -<i>œconomos</i>. A white wine, called “<i>the wine of night</i>,” -is supplied under the distinctive names of <i>St. Elie</i> and -<i>Calliste</i>; the latter is the better.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Hungary.</span></h3> - -<p>The wines of Hungary, we are told, “possess considerable -body with a moderate astringency.” The -varieties of wine known as <i>Ausbruch</i> and <i>Maszlacs</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_94"></a>[94]</span> -including the <i>Tokays</i>, <i>Rust</i>, <i>Menes</i>, and many more, -are of the most important character. Without the -addition of dry berries the so-called natural wine or -<i>Szamorodni</i> is obtained. The Tokay essence, a very -sweet wine, should be also very old. When fifty years -in bottle it costs some £3<a id="FNanchor_33" href="#Footnote_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> for a small flask. Ausbruch, -also sweet, should be also old. <i>Maszlacz</i> is of four -different kinds. The <i>Mezes</i>, <i>Male</i> or <i>Imperial</i>, does -not get into trade. <i>Meograd</i>, <i>Krasso</i>, and <i>Villany</i> -from the West of Hungary are good strong wines of -the second class. Wines of the third class are very -numerous. There is no space to mention more than -the red wines: <i>Baranya</i>, <i>Presburger</i>, <i>Somogy</i>, <i>Vagh-Ujhelyer</i>, -<i>Paulitsch</i>, and <i>Erdöd</i>, and the white <i>Miszla</i>, -<i>Balaton</i>, <i>Füred</i>, <i>Hont</i>, <i>Pesth</i>, and <i>Weissenburger</i>. -<i>Samlauer</i> is one of the best white wines made at a -place called Samlau, as <i>Erlauer</i> another good wine at -Erlau. The most commonly known Hungarian wines -of the present are <i>Oedenburger</i>, <i>Samlauer</i>, <i>Neszmely</i>, -and <i>Carlowitz</i>.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Italy.</span></h3> - -<p>That Italy produces good wines is, says Cyrus -Redding, undeniable. She also produces wines that -are very bad. The best Italian wines are believed -to be of Tuscany. As Hafiz is the authority for<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_95"></a>[95]</span> -<i>Shiraz</i>, so Redi’s <i>Bacco in Toscana</i> should be consulted -for the wines of Italy. <i>Monte Pulciano</i> is of a -purple hue, sweet and slightly astringent. It is to -this wine that Redi gives the palm, calling it <i>la manna -di Monte Pulciano</i>. The wine of <i>Chianti</i>, near Sienna, -is well known. <i>Artiminio</i>, <i>Poncino</i>, <i>Antella</i>, and -<i>Carmignano</i>, though of less reputation, are not greatly -inferior. The best <i>Verdea</i><a id="FNanchor_34" href="#Footnote_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> comes from Arcetri near -Florence. <i>Trebbiano</i>, a gold-coloured syrup, is produced, -according to Drs. Thudichum and Dupré, from -grapes, “passulated on the vine by torsion of the -stalk.” <i>Montelcino</i>, <i>Rimaneze</i>, and <i>Santo Stefano</i> are -Siennese wines. Of Sardinia the chief wines are -the so-called <i>Malvasias</i>, <i>Giro</i>, <i>Aleatico</i>, like the <i>Tinto</i> -of Alicante, and <i>Bosa</i>, <i>Ogliastra</i>, and <i>Sassari</i>. Of -Piedmont the principal wines are <i>Barolo</i>, <i>Barbera</i>, -<i>Nebbiolo</i>, <i>Braccheto</i>. <i>Asti</i>, <i>Chaumont</i>, <i>Alba</i>, and -<i>Montferrat</i> have had reputation thrust upon them. -<i>Grignolinos</i> are made from a vine closely related to -the <i>Kadarka</i> of Hungary, and the <i>Carmenet</i> of the -Gironde. The wines of Genoa are of small repute. -Central Italy furnishes <i>Montefiascone</i>,<a id="FNanchor_35" href="#Footnote_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> with a delicious<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_96"></a>[96]</span> -aroma, <i>Albano</i>, resembling <i>Lacryma Christi</i>, and -<i>Orvieto</i>. The principal wine of Naples, from the -base of Vesuvius, is <i>Lacryma Christi</i>, a rich, red, exquisite -drink, affirmed by some adventurous fancies -to be the <i>Falernian</i> of Horace. “O Christ!” said -a Dutchman who drank, “why didst Thou not weep -in my country?” Gallipoli, Tarento, Baia, Pausilippo, -yield good wines. The islands in the Bay of Naples -all produce wine; that of <i>Caprea</i> is of good ordinary -quality, both white and red. Calabria furnishes many -good wines. <i>Muscadenes</i> and dry wines are made at -Reggio. <i>Asprino</i>, a white foamy wine, with a pleasant -sharpness, is a favourite of the Campagna. -<i>Carigliano</i> is a Muscadine, with a flavour of fennel. -Dr. Charnock speaks highly of the wine of Capri, -and of Orvieto, a delicate white wine of Rome. The -disagreement of travellers about the merits of wines -arises principally, of course, from a diversity of tastes, -but also in the matter of Italian wines, from the fact -that different wines bear the same names in different -countries. There is, for instance, a <i>vino santo</i> and a -<i>vino greco</i> in Naples. A Veronese wine, <i>vino debolissimo -e di niuna stima</i>, is also called <i>vino santo</i>, and an -excellently good wine at Brescia. It is the same with -half a dozen of the most noted wines of Italy. <i>Modico</i>, -a fine white wine from the place of that name near -Salerno, was apparently a favourite of the noted School -of Salernum. The best known wines out of Italy are -the <i>Barola</i>, <i>Barbera</i>, and the rest which may be -found on the wine-list of every <i>padrone</i> of an Italian -restaurant; the <i>Inferno</i> of the Valtellina; the <i>Lambrusco</i><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_97"></a>[97]</span> -of Modena; the <i>Chianti</i> of Tuscan—a wine -grown on the estate of Baron Ricasoli, not thought so -much of in Italy as in England; and the <i>Lacryma -Christi</i> of Naples. Most Italian wines are bottled in -flasks, in the old Roman style, with oil<a id="FNanchor_36" href="#Footnote_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> on the top, -and wool over the oil.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Madeira.</span></h3> - -<p>Wine is first mentioned as a product of Funchal, -the capital of Madeira, in the fifteenth century. In -1662, when Charles II. married the Infanta Catherine -of Bragança, English merchants began to settle in -Madeira. The principal varieties of Madeira are -<i>Malvasia</i>, <i>Bual</i>, <i>Sercial</i>, <i>Tinta</i>, and <i>Verdelho</i> (the -<i>Verdea</i> of Tuscany). In England, Madeira is now -within the reach of all. At the beginning of this -century, it was known only to connoisseurs. The -“fine rich old <i>Boal</i>” is fairly familiar, and if we may -trust the wine merchants, the “Very Superior Old,” -variously described as full, soft, golden, delicate, and -mellow, is gradually winning its way into public favour, -since that same “soft fulness,” added to a delicious -and yet pungent flavour, produces a drink “altogether -superior” to the best Sherry.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Persia.</span></h3> - -<p>The ancient, most famous wines of this country were -those of Chorassan, Turan, and Mazanderan. These<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_98"></a>[98]</span> -places still produce wines; but their characteristics -and reputation have, it is affirmed, become blended in -the wine of Shiraz, in the province of Ferdistan, on -the Persian Gulf. Chardin, the Frenchman, describes -this wine as of excellent quality, but of course not -so fine as the French wines. The German, Kämpfer, -puts Shiraz on the same level with the best Burgundy -and Champagne. He who wishes to learn the nature -of the wine of Shiraz should consult the <i>Diwan</i> of -Hafiz. How far this poet speaks of wine literally -understood, and how far of spiritual delights, is a -matter for commentatorial investigation. Persian -wine is frequently mixed with <i>raki</i> and saffron, and -the extract of hemp. <i>Sherbet</i>, made of fruit juices -and water, is English rather than Oriental.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/footer2.jpg" width="300" height="300" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_99"></a>[99]</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Portugal.</span></h3> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="smcap">Portugal</span>: Peso da Regoa—Four Methods of Cultivation of Vine—White -and Black Ports—The <i>Quintas</i>—Tarragona—Charneco. -<span class="smcap">Russia</span>: Kahetia—Gumbrinskoé. <span class="smcap">Sicily</span>: Marsala. <span class="smcap">Spain</span>: -Malaga—Sherry—Amontillado. <span class="smcap">Switzerland</span>: Chiavenna—St. -Gall—The Canton of Vaud. <span class="smcap">Cider</span>: Derivation—Ainsworth—Gerard—Bacon—Evelyn—Turberville—Macaulay—Phillips. -<span class="smcap">Perry.</span></p> - -</div> - -<p>One hundred and fifty years ago, in the small town -of Peso da Regoa, then called Regua only, near the -confluence of the Corgo with the Douro, lived a single -fisherman, in a hut which he had himself constructed. -When the Oporto Wine Company was established, -their warehouses were erected here, and an annual fair -for the sale of wine was established.</p> - -<p>Peso da Regoa—the Peso comes from an adjoining -village—is now a thriving town, and may be considered -the capital of the Alto Douro district (<i>Paiz -Vinhateiro do Alto Douro</i>), whence are sent to England -and elsewhere those wines which are here known as -Port. The wine district is bounded by Villa Real on -the north, Lamego on the south, S. João da Pesqueira -on the east, and Mezãofrio on the west. It is unwholesome, -and but thinly populated. Those who list may -draw from this fact a divine prohibition of the bibbing -of Port.</p> - -<p>The vine is cultivated in Portugal in four ways. -(1) By being trained round oaks or poplars <i>de enforcado</i>, -as the Romans <i>ulmisque adjungere vites</i>. (2) By the -terrace system, the best as (1) is the most picturesque. -(3) By bushes in rows, with the intermediate ground<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_100"></a>[100]</span> -ploughed. (4) By the trellis or <i>de ramada</i>. The first -liquor drawn from the <i>lagar</i>, or press, the result of the -weight of the grapes alone, is called <i>Lacryma Christi</i>. -After that a gang of men jump into the <i>lagar</i>, and -dance to the sound of the fife or bagpipe. The -weather is warm, the work is hard; the result is better -conceived than expressed.</p> - -<p>Of white Ports the best are <i>Muscatel de Jesus</i> (the -testimony to religious influence in this and the -<i>Lacryma Christi</i> is extremely touching), considered -the prince of all, the <i>Dedo de Dama</i>, the <i>Ferral -Branco</i>, <i>Malvazia</i> (our Malmsey),<a id="FNanchor_37" href="#Footnote_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> <i>Abelhal</i>, <i>Agudelho</i>, -<i>Alvaraça</i>, <i>Donzellinho</i>, <i>Folgozão</i>, <i>Gonveio</i>, White -<i>Mourisco</i>, <i>Rabo da Ovelha</i>, and <i>Promissão</i>. Of the -black Ports the finest is <i>Touriga</i>, and the sweetest -<i>Bastardo</i>. Other dark Ports are <i>Souzão</i>, the darkest -of all, <i>Aragonez</i>, <i>Pegudo</i>, besides <i>Tintas</i>, whose names -are legion. Other wines grown here, or in the immediate -vicinity, are <i>Alvarilhão</i>, a kind of Claret, -<i>Alicante</i>, <i>Muscatel</i>, <i>Roxo</i>, and <i>Malvazia Vermelha</i>. -Great quantities of wine are produced in the <i>quintas</i> -outside the line of demarcation, and some of these -wines are equal to those made in the wine district of -the <i>Alto Douro</i> itself. Red wines transformed into -French Clarets at Bordeaux, are exported in large -quantities. A wine from Tarragona, known as -“Spanish Red,” or superb Catalan, is sent yearly to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_103"></a>[103]</span> -England, and sold as very full, rich, fruity, and tawny -Port. Port will not keep good in the cask for more -than two years without the addition of alcohol. The -Oporto merchants use a pure spirit distilled from the -wine itself. The old Port which we prize so highly -and pay for so dearly is seldom unaffected by brandy -or other spirit.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_101"></a>[101]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus27.jpg" width="700" height="475" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">INTRODUCTION OF THE GOUT.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_102"></a>[102]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> -<img src="images/illus28.jpg" width="450" height="500" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">THE GOUT.</p> -</div> - -<p>Some of the best wines are produced by Estremadura, -such as <i>Bucellas</i>, <i>Collares</i>, <i>Lavradio</i>, <i>Chamusca</i>, -<i>Carcavellos</i>, <i>Barra a Barra</i>, and many others of which -not even the names are known in England. The -vines round Torres Vedras might, it has been said, -produce the finest wines in the world, if properly cultivated.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_104"></a>[104]</span> -<i>Arinto</i> and <i>Estremadura</i> are comparatively -new wines. The white wines of Tojal and the vintages -of Palmella and Inglezinhos have only to be -known to become popular. The province of Traz-os-Montes, -in spite of its climate of <i>nove mezes de inverno, -e tres de inferno</i>, produces excellent wines in the Piaz -Vinhateiro. Those in the vicinity of the river Tua -and the Sabor are considered by connoisseurs to resemble -the celebrated <i>Clos Vougeot</i>. There is a -remarkable red wine called <i>Cornifesto</i>, and the white -wines of <i>Arêas</i>, <i>Bragança</i>, <i>Moraes</i>, <i>Moncorvo</i>, and -<i>Nosedo</i> are excellent. The cup of <i>Charneco</i> (2 Hen. -VI. ii. 3), a wine mentioned by Beaumont and Fletcher -and Decker, is said to have been made at <i>Charneco</i>, -a village near Lisbon (<i>European Magazine</i>, March, -1794).</p> - -<p>Port-wine is accredited with producing gout, and -the two accompanying illustrations give the “Introduction -to the Gout,” and the real fiend itself.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Russia.</span></h3> - -<p><i>Kahetia</i> is a wine produced in a district of that -name, east of Tiflis. It is of two descriptions, red -and white, and is much esteemed throughout Transcaucasia. -As it is kept in skins made tight with -naphtha, it has generally a slight taste of leather and -petroleum. <i>Gumbrinskoé</i> is a sweet wine grown in -the Gumbri district of the Caucasus. <i>Donskoé Champanskoé</i>, -the champagne of the Don, is said by Dr. -Charnock to be a very good wine, and better than<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_105"></a>[105]</span> -many sorts drunk in Britain. Russian wines generally, -as those of many other countries, are largely diluted, -and, like the majority of Greek wines, do not improve -by keeping.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Sicily.</span></h3> - -<p>A thousand years before Christ, says Mr. Simmonds, -districts of Sicily were famous for wine. The -coins of Naxos (500 <span class="allsmcap">B.C.</span>) bear the head of Bacchus -on the obverse, on the reverse Pan, or a bunch of -grapes. Of Sicilian wines, the light amber or brown -wine of <i>Marsala</i> is best known. There is Ingham’s -L.P., and Woodhouse’s; there is also the Old Brown. -The Faro is perhaps the strongest wine of Sicily. -The wine of Terre Forte is made near Etna, in some -vineyards of Benedictine monks. Marsala, as we know -it, is generally adulterated, or fortified, to use a more -technical term. Even the “Virgin” has not escaped -this common lot of wines. Much Marsala is indeed -sold as Marsala, but much more is sold as Sherry. -The wine of <i>Taormina</i> has the classic taste of pitch. -Augusta produces a wine with a strong flavour of -violets. This to some palates is the most agreeable -wine drank in Sicily or elsewhere. The <i>Del Bosco</i> -of Catania, and the <i>Borgetto</i> have been both recommended -by the subtle taste of Dr. Charnock. A dry -wine called <i>Vin de Succo</i> is made about ten miles from -Palermo. The wine of Syracuse somewhat resembles -<i>Chablis</i>.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_106"></a>[106]</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Spain.</span></h3> - -<p>As Spain succeeds France geographically, so it -follows it in the excellence of its vinous productions. -Throughout all ages this country has been distinguished -for its wines. But the Spaniard’s chief glory -under heaven is in the preparation of white dry fortified -wines such as Sherries, and sweet wines such as -<i>Malagas</i>. In the province of Andalusia is situated -Xeres de la Frontera, and the convent of <i>Paxarete</i>, -which produces a rich sweet sparkling drink. Here, -too, are the vines of the <i>vino secco</i> and the <i>abocado</i>, -and <i>Rota</i>,<a id="FNanchor_38" href="#Footnote_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> which produces Andalusia’s best red -wines. Here are <i>Ranico</i>, <i>Moguro</i>, or <i>Moguer</i>, a -cheap light wine, <i>Negio</i>, and the capital <i>Seville</i>. -Catalonia yields a large quantity of red wine shipped -to England mostly as a drink for the general. The -<i>Malaga</i> of Granada is well known. Sherry<a id="FNanchor_39" href="#Footnote_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> wines -are, or ought to be, the products of Cadiz, including -Xeres de la Frontera, San Lucar de Barrameda,—where -<i>Tintilla</i>, an excellent Muscadine red wine, is manufactured,—Trebujena, -and Puerto de Santa Maria. -The celebrated wine known as Manzanilla<a id="FNanchor_40" href="#Footnote_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> is made in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_107"></a>[107]</span> -San Lucar de Barrameda. <i>Val de Peñas</i><a id="FNanchor_41" href="#Footnote_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a> wines are -commonly red. After the perfection of age, this -celebrated product of La Manche<a id="FNanchor_42" href="#Footnote_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> is, in the opinion -of Redding, equal to any red wine in the world. -Much wine of Catalonia is now imported into England -as Catalan Port. Borja produces a luscious white -wine. The country about Tarragona on the road to -Barcelona is almost wholly occupied with wine making. -<i>Beni-Carlos</i>, <i>La Torre</i>, <i>Segorbe</i>, and <i>Murviedro</i>, are -all fair wines of Valencia. Alicant produces an -excellent red wine, <i>vino tinto</i>, strong and sweet; when -old, this wine is called <i>Fondellol</i>. Vinaroz, Santo -Domingo, and Perales, offer red wines of moderate -excellence. The best wines of Aragon are <i>Cariñena</i> -and the <i>Hospital</i>, from the vine which the French call -<i>Grenache</i>. In Biscay, at Chacoli, a <i>vino brozno</i>, or -austere wine, is produced in large quantity. The -best is made at Vittoria, and called <i>Pedro Ximenes</i>.<a id="FNanchor_43" href="#Footnote_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a> -Fuençaral, near Madrid, offers a good wine seldom -exported. The most famous wine-growing district of -Granada is that of Malaga, termed Axarquia. This -produces <i>Malagas</i>, <i>Muscatels</i>, <i>Malvasies</i>, and <i>Tintos</i>. -The red wines called <i>Tinto de Rota</i> and <i>Sacra</i> are -unfermented with only enough spirit for preservation, -and are commonly advertised in our wine circulars -as “suitable for sacramental purposes.” <i>Guindre</i> is -flavoured with cherries from which it derives its name.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_108"></a>[108]</span> -Into this wine, as into some others, the Spaniards are -wont to put roasted pears, under the conceit that -thereby it is much improved in taste and rendered -more wholesome. Hence arose the proverb <i>El vino -de las peras dalo a quien bien quiéras</i>. <i>Malaga Xeres</i> -is often known in England as the pale, gold, dry -Sherry,<a id="FNanchor_44" href="#Footnote_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> as the wines of Alicant, Benicarlos, and -Valencia are sold as a rich and fruity Port. The so-called -<i>Amontillado</i> Sherry is very often the outcome -of accident. Out of a hundred butts of Sherry from -the same vineyard, some, says a great authority, will -be <i>Amontillado</i>, without the manufacturers being able -to account for it. At Cordova, a dry wine called -<i>Montilla</i> is commonly drunk.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Switzerland.</span></h3> - -<p>Swiss wines are commonly consumed only in Switzerland. -The best is produced in the Grisons, called -<i>Chiavenna</i>, aromatic and white from the red grape. -A white <i>Malvasia</i> of good quality is made in the -Valais. It is luscious, as is <i>Chiavenna</i>. The Valais -also furnishes red wines, made at La Marque and -Coquempin in the district of Martigny. Schaffhausen -gives plenty of red wine. The <i>wine of blood</i><a id="FNanchor_45" href="#Footnote_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> is -manufactured at Basle. These wines are also known -as those of the <i>Hospital</i> and <i>St. Jaques</i>. The red<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_109"></a>[109]</span> -wines of Erlach, in Berne, are of a good quality. The -red wine of Neufchâtel is equal to a third-class -Burgundy. St. Gall produces tolerable wines. In -the Valteline, the red wines are both good and durable, -much resembling the aromatic wine of Southern -France. These wines are remarkably luscious, and -will, it is said, keep for a century. The largest amount -of wine is produced by the Canton of Vaud. The -wines of <i>Cully</i> and <i>Désalés</i>, near Lausanne, much -resemble the dry wines of the Rhine.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/footer3.jpg" width="300" height="275" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_110"></a>[110]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header8.jpg" width="500" height="350" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">APPLES FOR CIDER.</p> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CIDER">CIDER.</h2> - -</div> - -<p>The original meaning of the word <i>cider</i><a id="FNanchor_46" href="#Footnote_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a> appears -to have been strong drink. It was used to -designate a liquor made of the juice of any fruit -pressed, and an example of the word in this use is to -be found in Wycliffe’s Bible, in the speech of the angel -to Zacharias (Luke i. 15), in allusion to his promised -progeny: <i>He schal not drynke wyn and syder</i>. The -next meaning is that of a liquor made from the juice -of apples expressed and fermented.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_111"></a>[111]</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“A flask of <i>cider</i> from his father’s vats,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Prime, which I knew.”</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse right"><span class="smcap">Tennyson</span>: <i>Audley Court</i>.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>We have little information about cider either from -the Greeks or the Latins. It would seem that it -was not known to them, if we may trust Ainsworth, -who translates cider by <i>succus e pomis expressus</i>, and -Byzantius, who gives μηλίτης (οἶνος) εἶδ. ποτοῦ as the -equivalent for <i>cidre</i>.<a id="FNanchor_47" href="#Footnote_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a> Gerard, in his <i>Historie of -Plants</i>, published in 1597, says that he saw in the -pastures and hedgerows about the grounds of a -“worshipful gentleman,” dwelling two miles from -Hereford, called M. Roger Bodnome, so many trees -of all sorts that the servants drunk for the most part -no other drink but that which is made from apples. -The quantity, says Gerard, was such that by the -report of the gentleman himself, the parson “hath -for tithe many hogsheads of Syder.” This reference -to the servants and the parson drinking it, but not to -the “gentleman,” seems to show that the liquor was -not then held in much esteem.</p> - -<p>Bacon placed cider after wine, and we have followed -in our arrangement of the present volume his august -example. This great philosopher speaks of cider and -perry as “notable beverages on sea-voyages.” The -cider of his day did not, he says, sour by crossing the -line, and was good against sea-sickness. He also -speaks of cider, a “wonderful pleasing and refreshing -drink,” in his <i>New Atlantis</i>.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_112"></a>[112]</span></p> - -<p>John Evelyn’s <i>French Gardener</i> gives much information -on this subject, and his <i>Pomona</i> is, says Stopes, -the first monograph on the manufacture of cider in -England.</p> - -<p>Cider is made in many parts of Barbary, and in -Canada. In all the States, apples are abundant, -particularly in New York and New England, and -cider is a common drink of the inhabitants. And it -is as excellent as it is common. That of New Jersey -is generally considered the best. It is curious that -the least juicy apples afford the best liquor. Cider of -a superior quality is abundant in Cork, Waterford, and -other counties of Ireland, where it was introduced, we -are told, in the reign of Elizabeth. It was first made -at Affane, in the county of Waterford.<a id="FNanchor_48" href="#Footnote_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a> Worledge’s -<i>Vinetum Britannicum</i>, 1676, and his <i>Most Easy -Method for Making the Best Cider</i>, 1687, have been -considered at full length by Mr. Stopes. Worledge’s -press is an improvement upon one shown in Evelyn’s -<i>Pomona</i>.</p> - -<p>Cider appears in Russia under the name of <i>Kvas</i>. -There is <i>Yàblochni kvas</i>, made of apples; <i>Grùshevoi -kvas</i>, of pears, a perry; and <i>Malinovoi kvas</i>, of raspberries. -George Turberville, secretary to the English -Embassy to Moscow in the year 1568, mentions -<i>kvas</i> in a description of the Russians of his time -as:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Folk fit to be of Bacchus’ train, so quaffing is their kind;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Drink is their whole desire, the pot is all their pride.</div><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_113"></a>[113]</span> - <div class="verse indent0">The soberest head doth once a day stand needful of a guide.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">If he to banquet bid his friends, he will not shrink</div> - <div class="verse indent0">On them at dinner to bestow a dozen kinds of drink,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Such liquor as they have, and as the country gives;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">But chiefly two, one called <i>kwas</i>, whereby the Moujike lives,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Small ware and waterlike, but somewhat tart in taste;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The rest is mead, of honey made, wherewith their lips they baste.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Stopes is of opinion that the finest cider is made, not -in the west, as has been commonly asserted, but in the -east of England. This authority seems particularly -to favour the Ribston pippins of Norfolk.</p> - -<p>“Worcester,” says Macaulay, in his <i>History of -England</i>, ch. iii., “is the queen of the cider land;” but -Devon and Somerset, Gloucester and Norfolk, might -dispute the title. To make good cider the apples -should be quite ripe, as the amount of sugar in ripe -apples is 11·0; in unripe apples, 4·9; in over-ripe -apples, 7·95. The fermentation should proceed slowly. -Brande says that the strongest cider contains, in 100 -volumes, 9·87 of alcohol of 92 per cent; the weakest, -5·21. By distillation, cider produces a good spirit; but -it is seldom converted to that purpose in consequence -of its acidity, which, however, is greatly remedied by -rectification.</p> - -<p>Much cider is distilled in Normandy, and sent to -this country under the name of <i>arrack</i>, or some other -foreign spirit, according to its flavour. To the Normans -the invention of this liquor has been attributed. -They are also said to have received it from the Moors. -Whitaker (<i>Hist. Manchester</i>, i. 321) says this drink -was introduced into this country by the Romans; and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_114"></a>[114]</span> -Simmonds (p. 25) that it was first used in England -about 1284.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus29.jpg" width="500" height="275" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">AN OLD CIDER MILL.</p> -</div> - -<p>Cider has been immortalised by Phillips in a classical -poem, in imitation of Virgil’s Georgics, which, according -to Johnson, “need not shun the presence of the -original.” Milton’s nephew thought that cider—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent4">“far surmounts</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Gallic or Latin grapes.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Perry.</span></h3> - -<p>Perry is prepared from pears, as cider from apples. -It is capable of being used in the adulteration of champagne.<a id="FNanchor_49" href="#Footnote_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a> -The harsher, redder, and more tawny pears -produce the best drink. Perry is less popular than -cider, but some consider it superior.<a id="FNanchor_50" href="#Footnote_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_115"></a>[115]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header9.jpg" width="500" height="225" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="BRANDY">BRANDY.</h2> - -<p>The Invention of Brandy—Early Alchemists—Aqua Vitæ—Distillation—The -Still-room—Ladies Drinking—Nantes and Charente—Johnson’s -Idea of Brandy—The Charente District—Manufacture -of Brandy—The Cognac Firms.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Who invented Brandy? is a question that -cannot be authoritatively answered offhand; -but the good people of some parts of Germany hold -that it was the Devil. And their legend is, at all -events, circumstantial.</p> - -<p>Every one who is at all acquainted with old legends -is fully aware that the Father of Evil is extremely -simple, and has allowed himself, many times, to be -outwitted by man. Once, especially, he was so guileless -as to put trust in a Steinbach man, who cajoled -him into entering an old beech tree, and there he was -imprisoned until the tree was cut down. His first step, -on regaining his freedom, was to revisit his own -particular dominion, which, to his horror, he found -empty!</p> - -<p>This, naturally, would not do, and he set about re-peopling -hell without delay. He thought the quickest<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_116"></a>[116]</span> -plan would be to start a distillery; so he hurried off -at once to Nordhausen, where his manufacture of -Brandy (his own invention) became so famous that -people from all parts came to him to learn the new art, -and to become distillers. From that time his Satanic -Majesty has never had to complain of paucity of -subjects.</p> - -<p>It seems fairly established that the famous chemist -Geber, who lived in the 7th or 8th century, was -acquainted with distillation, and we know that it was -practised by the Arabian and Saracenic alchemists, -but have no knowledge whether they made any practical -use of the <i>alcohol</i> they produced. They, at all -events, gave us the word by which we now know the -<i>spirit</i>, or ethereal part, of wine.</p> - -<p>Alcohol, distilled from wine, is first reliably mentioned -by a celebrated French alchemist and physician, -Arnaud de Villeneuve, who died in 1313, who gave it -the name of <i>aqua vitæ</i>, or water of life,<a id="FNanchor_51" href="#Footnote_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a> and regarded -it as a valuable adjunct in physic, and as a boon to -humanity. Raymond Lully, the famous alchemist, -who is said to have been his pupil, declared it to be -“an emanation from the Deity,” and on its introduction -it was supposed to be the elixir of life, capable -of rejuvenating those who partook of it, and, as such, -was only purchasable at an extremely high price.</p> - -<p>We may see, by a book<a id="FNanchor_52" href="#Footnote_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a> written 200 years after the -death of Arnaud de Villeneuve, the esteem in which<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_117"></a>[117]</span> -Aqua Vitæ was held even after so great a lapse of -time.</p> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<div> -<img class="dropcap" src="images/dropcap.jpg" width="150" height="165" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p class="dropcap">Aqua Vite is comonly called the mastresse of al medycynes, -for it easeth the dysseases comynge of -colde. It gyveth also yonge corage in a person, -and cawseth hym to have a good memorye and remembraunce. -It puryfyeth the fyve wittes of -melancolye and of unclenes whan it is dronke by -reason and measure. That is to understande fyve or syx droppes -in the mornynge lastyng with a sponefull of wyne, usynge the -same in the maner aforsayde the evyl humours can not hurte the -body, for it withdryveth them oute of the vaynes.</p> - -<p>¶ It conforteth the harte, and causeth a body to be mery.</p> - -<p>¶ It heleth all olde and newe sores on the hede comynge of colde, -whan the hede is enoynted therwyth and a lytell of the same water -holden in the mouthe, and dronke of the same.</p> - -<p>¶ It causeth a good colour in a parson whan it is dronke and -the hede enoynted therwyth the space of xx dayes; it heleth Alopicia, -or whan it is dronke lastyng with a lytell tryacle. It causeth the -here well to growe, and kylleth the lyce and flees.</p> - -<p>¶ It cureth the Reuma of the hede, whan the temples and the -fore hede therwith be rubbed.</p> - -<p>¶ It cureth Litargiam,<a id="FNanchor_53" href="#Footnote_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a> and all yll humours of the hede.</p> - -<p>¶ It heleth the coloure in the face, and all maner of pymples. -It heleth the fystule when it is put therein with the Juce of Celendyne.</p> - -<p>¶ Cotton wet in the same and a lytell wronge out agayn and -so put in the eares at nyght goynge to bedde, and a lytell dronke -thereof, is good against all defnes.</p> - -<p>¶ It easeth the payn in the teethe, when it is a longe tyme -holden in the mouthe, it causeth a swete brethe, and theleth the -rottyng tethe.</p> - -<p>¶ It heleth the canker in the mouthe, in the teethe, in the lyppes, -and in the tongue, whan it is longe time holden in the mouthe.</p> - -<p>¶ It cawseth the hevy togue to become light and wel spekyng.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_118"></a>[118]</span></p> - -<p>¶ It heleth the shorte brethe whan it is droke with water wheras -the figes be soden in, and vanisheth al flemmes.</p> - -<p>¶ It causeth good dygestynge and appetyte for to eat, and taketh -away all bolkynge.<a id="FNanchor_54" href="#Footnote_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a></p> - -<p>¶ It dryveth the wyndes out of the body, and is good agaynst -the evyll stomake.</p> - -<p>¶ It easeth the fayntenes of the harte, the payn of the mylte, -the yelowe Jandis, the dropsy, the yll lymmes, the goute, in the -handes and in the fete, the payne in the brestes whan they be -swollen, and heleth al diseases in the bladder, and breaketh the -stone.</p> - -<p>¶ It withdryveth venym that hath been taken in meat or in -drynke, whā a lytell tryacle is put therto.</p> - -<p>¶ It heleth the flanckes<a id="FNanchor_55" href="#Footnote_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a> and all dyseases coming of colde.</p> - -<p>¶ It heleth the brennyng of the body, and of al membres whan -it is rubbed therewith by the fyre viii dayes contynnynge.</p> - -<p>¶ It is good to be dronke agaynst the sodeyn dede.</p> - -<p>¶ It heleth all scabbes of the body, and all colde swellynges, -enoynted or washed therwith, and also a lytell thereof dronke.</p> - -<p>¶ It heleth all shronke sinewes, and causeth them to become -softe and right.</p> - -<p>¶ It heleth the febres tertiana and quartana, when it is dronke -an houre before, or the febres becometh on a body.</p> - -<p>¶ It heleth the venymous bytes, and also of a madde dogge, -whan they be wasshed therwith.</p> - -<p>¶ It heleth all stynkyng woundes whan they be wasshed therwith.”</p> - -</div> - -<p>From use in medicine, Aqua Vitæ soon came into -domestic use, and here is given one of Iherom -Bruynswyke’s “Styllatoryes,” which he says was the -“comon fornays” which was “well beknowen amonge -the potters, made of erthe leded or glased, and it may -be removed from the one place to the other.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 325px;"> -<img src="images/illus30.jpg" width="325" height="500" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>It was in a still of this sort that the old housewives -of the sixteenth and succeeding centuries used to -concoct their strong and cordial waters—a practice<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_119"></a>[119]</span> -which has given, and left to, our own times, the name -of “Still-room,” as the housekeeper’s own particular -domain. They experimented on almost every herb<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_120"></a>[120]</span> -that grew, and some of their concoctions must have -been exceedingly nasty. Yet some of their recipes -read as if they were comforting, and they were not -deficient in variety.</p> - -<p>Heywood, in his <i>Philocothonista</i>, or <i>The Drunkard, -Opened, Dissected, and Anatomized</i>, 1635, p. 48, mentions -some of them. “To add to these chiefe and -multiplicitie of wines before named, yet there be Stills -and Limbecks going, swetting out <i>Aqua Vitæ</i> and -strong waters deriving their names from <i>Cynamon</i>, -<i>Lemmons</i>, <i>Balme</i>, <i>Angelica</i>, <i>Aniseed</i>, <i>Stomach Water</i>, -<i>Hunni</i>, etc. And to fill up the number, we have -plenty of <i>Vsque-ba’ha</i>.”</p> - -<p>The old housewives’ books of the latter end of the -sixteenth century, until much later, are still in existence, -and from them we may learn many drinks of our forefathers, -how to make <i>Ipocras</i> (<i>very good</i>, especially -when taken in a “Loving Cup”), to clarify <i>Whey</i>, to -make <i>Buttered Beer</i>, <i>Sirrop of Roses or Violets</i>, <i>Rosa -Solis</i>, <i>a Caudle for an old Man</i>, or to distil <i>Spirits of -Spices</i>, <i>Spirits of Wine tasting of what Vegetable -you please</i>, <i>Balme Water</i>, <i>Rosemary Water</i>, <i>Sinamon -Water</i>, <i>Aqua Rubea</i>, Spirits of Hony, Rose Water, -<i>Vinegar</i>, very many scents, and a distillation called -<i>Aqua Composita</i>, which entered into many receipts. -There are many formulæ for this, but Bruynswyke -gives the following:—</p> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p class="center">“AQUA VITE COMPOSITA.</p> - -<p>“The same water is made some time of wyne with spyces onely, -sometyme with wyne and rotes of the herbes, sometyme with the -herbes, some tyme with the rotes and herbes togyder, for at all tymes -thereto must be stronge wyne.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_121"></a>[121]</span></p> - -<p>“Take a gallon of strong Gascoigne wine, and Sage, Mints, -Red Roses, Time, Pellitorie, Rosemarie, Wild Thime, Camomil, -Lavender, of eche an handfull. These herbes shal be stamped all -togyder in a Morter, and then putte it in a clene vessell and do -herto a pynte of Rose Water, and a quart of romney,<a id="FNanchor_56" href="#Footnote_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a> and then -stoppe it close and let it stand so iii or iiii dayes. Whan ye -have so done, put all this togyder in a styllatory and dystyll water -of the same; than take your dystylled water, and pore it upon the -herbes agayne into the styllatory, and strewe upon it these powders -followynge.</p> - -<p>¶ Fyrst cloves and cynamon, of eche an halfe ounce, Oryous<a id="FNanchor_57" href="#Footnote_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a> -an ounce, and a few Maces, nutmeggs halfe an ounce, a lytell -saffran, muscus, spica nardi, ambre, and some put campher in it, -bycawse the materyals be so hote. Stere<a id="FNanchor_58" href="#Footnote_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a> all the same well togyder -and dystylle it clene of, tyll it come fat lyke oyle, than set -awaye your water, and let it be wel kepte. After that make a -stronge fyre, and dystyll oyle of it, and receyve it in a fyole,<a id="FNanchor_59" href="#Footnote_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a> this -oyle smelleth above all oyles, and he that letteth one droppe fall on -his hande, it will perce through. It is wonderfull good, excellynge -many other soveraygne oyles to dyvers dysseases.”</p> - -</div> - -<p>Although the Still-room was serviceable for medicinal -purposes, yet, as we have seen, there were many -comforting drinks made, including <i>Vsquebath, or Irish -aqua vitæ</i> (a recipe for which we will give in its proper -place), and doubtless this contributed much towards -the tippling habit of some ladies in the 17th and -18th centuries. We hear somewhat of this in the -reign of good Queen Anne (who, by the bye, was -irreverently termed “Brandy-faced Nan”), when they -used to make, and drink, <i>Ratifia of Apricocks</i>, <i>Fenouillette -of Rhé</i>, <i>Millefleurs</i>, <i>Orangiat</i>, <i>Burgamot</i>, <i>Pesicot</i>, -and <i>Citron Water</i>, etc., etc., numerous allusions to -which are made in the pages of “The Spectator,” and -other literature of the times. Edward Ward, who had<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_122"></a>[122]</span> -no objection to call a spade, a spade, thus plainly speaks -out.<a id="FNanchor_60" href="#Footnote_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a></p> - -<p>“It would make a Man smile to behold her Figure -in a front Box, where her twinkling Eyes, by her -Afternoon’s Drams of Ratifee and cold Tea, sparkle -more than her Pendants.... Her closet is -always as well stor’d with Juleps, Restoratives, and -Strong Waters, as an Apothecary’s Shop, or a -Distiller’s Laboratory; and is, herself, so notable a -Housewife in the Art of preparing them, that she has -a larger Collection of Chemical Receipts than a Dutch -Mountebank.... As soon as she rises, she -must have a Salutary Dram to keep her Stomach from -the Cholick; a Whet before she eats, to procure -Appetite; after eating, a plentiful Dose for Concoction; -and to be sure a Bottle of Brandy under her Bed side -for fear of fainting in the Night.”</p> - -<p>There is no necessity to multiply instances of the -feminine liking for brandy, for everyone finds numerous -examples in his reading, from Juliet’s nurse,<a id="FNanchor_61" href="#Footnote_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a> who, after -Tybalt’s death, says, “Give me some <i>aqua vitæ</i>,” to -old Lady Clermont, of whom Grantley Berkeley tells -the following story<a id="FNanchor_62" href="#Footnote_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a>:—</p> - -<p>“Prominent among my earliest Brighton reminiscences -are those of old Lady Clermont, who was a -frequent guest at the Pavilion. Her physician had -recommended a moderate use of stimulants, to supply -that energy which was deficient in her system, and -brandy had been suggested in a prescribed quantity,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_123"></a>[123]</span> -to be mixed with her tea. I remember well having -my curiosity excited by this, to me, novel form of -taking medicine, and holding on by the back of a -chair to watch the <i>modus operandi</i>. Very much to -my astonishment, the patient held a liqueur bottle over -a cup of tea, and began to pour out its contents, with -a peculiar purblind look, upon the <i>back</i> of a teaspoon. -Presently, she seemed suddenly to become aware of -what she was about, turned up the spoon the right -way, and carefully measured, and added the quantity -to which she had been restricted. The Tea, so -strongly ‘laced,’ she now drank with great apparent -gusto.”</p> - -<p>We derive our name of Brandy from the Dutch -<i>brand-wijn</i>, or the German brannt-wein, that is, <i>burnt</i> -or distilled <i>wine</i>; and in the 17th and 18th centuries -it was generally spelt, and spoken of as brandy wine. -But, also, in those centuries was it known by the name -of “Nantz,” from the town (Nantes, the capital of the -Loire Inferieure) whence it came. But this name was -changed early last century, when the trade left Nantes, -and got into the Charente district, of which Cognac -was the centre; so what used to be “right good -Nantz” of the old smuggling days, turned into the -delicate, many-starred “Cognac” of our times.</p> - -<p>It was an eminently respectable spirit. Whiskey -was practically unknown out of Scotland and Ireland. -Gin was the drink of the common people, and rum was -considered only fit for sailors. Even Dr. Johnson, -though so fond of his tea, was also fond of brandy, -as Boswell chronicles of him, when in his 70th year:<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_124"></a>[124]</span> -“On Wednesday, April 7, I dined with him at Sir -Joshua Reynolds’s. Johnson harangued upon the -qualities of different liquors; and spoke with great contempt -of claret, as so weak, that ‘a man would be -drowned by it, before it made him drunk.’ He was -persuaded to drink one glass of it, that he might judge, -not from recollection, which might be dim, but from -immediate sensation. He shook his head, and said, -‘Poor stuff! No, sir, claret is the liquor for boys; -port for men; but he who aspires to be a hero’ -(smiling) ‘must drink brandy. In the first place the -flavour of brandy is the most grateful to the palate, -and then brandy will do soonest for a man what -drinking <i>can</i> do for him. There are, indeed, few who -are able to drink brandy. That is a power rather to -be wished for than attained.’”</p> - -<p>And two years later on he gives another illustration -of the doctor’s liking for strong potations. “Mr. Eliot -mentioned a curious liquor peculiar to his country, -which the Cornish fishermen drink. They call it -<i>Mahogany</i>; and it is made of two parts gin and one -part treacle, well beaten together. I begged to have -some of it made, which was done with proper skill by -Mr. Eliot. I thought it very good liquor, and said it -was a counterpart of what is called <i>Athol porridge</i><a id="FNanchor_63" href="#Footnote_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a> in -the Highlands of Scotland, which is a mixture of -whiskey and honey. Johnson said ‘That must be a -better liquor than the Cornish, for both its component -parts are better.’ He also observed, ‘<i>Mahogany</i> must -be a modern name; for it is not long since the wood -called mahogany was known in this country. I<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_125"></a>[125]</span> -mentioned his scale of liquors: Claret for boys—port -for men—brandy for heroes. ‘Then,’ said Mr. Burke, -‘let me have claret; I love to be a boy; to have the -careless gaiety of boyish days,’ Johnson: ‘I should -drink claret too, if it would give me that; but it does -not; it neither makes boys men, nor men boys. You’ll -be drowned in it before it has any effect upon you.’”</p> - -<p>But it was the spirit always drunk by gentlemen -until well on in this century, as we see by Mr. Pickwick, -whose constant resource in all cases of difficulty, -was a glass of brandy. Pale brandy was not so much -drank as brown, which is now only taken, when very -old, as a liqueur, although a brown brandy of very -dubious quality is to be met with in some country -public houses. Brandy, like every other spirit, developes -its ethers with age, gets mellower, and of -exquisite flavour; and its popularity would undoubtedly -be revived if the drinker were only sure he could get -such brandy as the many starred brands of Hennessy -and Martell, instead of that awful substitute so often -given—British brandy, made of raw potato spirit.</p> - -<p>The soil of the Charente slope is particularly adapted -to the growth of the vine, although, as in all vine-growing -countries some districts, and even small -patches of land, produce finer wine than others. The -grapes are white, not much larger than good-sized -currants, and the vines seldom bear fruit until four or -five years from their planting, and are most vigorous -at the age of from ten to thirty. Many bear well up -to fifty and seventy, and some are fruitful at one -hundred years or more.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_126"></a>[126]</span></p> - -<p>As a rule, the large firms do not distil the brandy -they sell, but leave that operation to the small farmers -round about, and then blend their products; as, to -produce the quantity they sell, enormous distilling -space would be necessary, wine only producing one-eighth -or one-tenth of alcohol to its bulk. The -farmer’s distillery is very primitive; merely a simple -boiler with a head or receiver, and a worm surrounded -with cold water. There are generally two of these -stills at work, and when once the farmer commences -making his brandy, he keeps on day and night, -bivouacking near the stills, until he has converted all -his wine into crude spirit, as colourless as water, which -he carts off, just as it is, to the brandy factory for sale. -There it is tasted, measured, and put into new casks -of oak, hooped round with chestnut wood. These -casks are branded with the date, together with the -quality and place of growth of the wine from which -the brandy was distilled, and they remain some time -in stock before their contents are blended in the proportions -which the firm deem suitable.</p> - -<p>This new spirit is housed on a floor over large vats, -which are filled from selected casks, the spirit being -filtered through flannel discs on its way. This mixes -the various growths pretty well, but the spirit is run -into other vats, being forced through filters of a -peculiar kind of paper, almost like paste-board. -When it gets to the second series of vats, it is kept -well stirred, to prevent the heavier spirit sinking to the -bottom. It is then drawn off into casks, which are -bunged up, and stored for several years that the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_127"></a>[127]</span> -brandy may mature, and that the fusel oil may -develope into the ethyls, which give such flavour and -fragrance to the brandy.</p> - -<p>Perhaps the oldest house in the Cognac district is -Hennessy’s, but it would be invidious to say that their -brandy was superior either to Martell’s, Otard and -Dupuy’s, the Société Vignicole, Courvoisier, or many -other firms. That must be left to individual taste. -But from these firms we can rely on having pure unadulterated -brandies, the pure product of the vine, -without any admixture of grain or beet spirit. At one -time, adulteration was rife among the farmers, but in -1857 and 1858 several of them were prosecuted, and -they are now credited with having abjured their evil -ways.</p> - -<p class="right">J. A.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> -<img src="images/footer4.jpg" width="350" height="400" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_128"></a>[128]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header10.jpg" width="500" height="275" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="GIN">GIN.</h2> - -<p>Massinger’s <i>Duke of Milan</i>—Pope’s <i>Epilogue to Satires</i>—The <i>Dunciad</i>—William -III.—Lord Hervey—Sir R. Walpole—The Fall -of Madame Geneva—Hogarth’s Gin Lane—Schiedam Adulteration—Gin -Sling—Captain Dudley Bradstreet—Tom and Jerry -Hawthorn.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Gin is an alcoholic drink distilled from malt or -from unmalted barley or other grain, and afterwards -rectified and flavoured. The word is French, -<i>genièvre</i>, juniper, corrupted into <i>Geneva</i>, and subsequently -into its present form. It is to the berries -of the juniper that the best Hollands owes its flavour.</p> - -<p>Perhaps one of the earliest allusions to gin is in -Massinger’s <i>Duke of Milan</i> (1623), Act I., scene i., -when Graccho, a creature of Mariana, says to the -courtier Julio, of a chance drunkard,</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent18">“Bid him sleep;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">’Tis a sign he has ta’en his liquor, and if you meet</div> - <div class="verse indent0">An officer preaching of sobriety,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Unless he read it in Geneva print,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Lay him by the heels.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_129"></a>[129]</span></p> -<p>In this extract the word is played upon, Geneva -suggesting both the habit of spirit-drinking and Calvinistic -doctrine.</p> - -<p>When Pope wrote, the corrupted word “Gin” -had become common. In the <i>Epilogue to the Satires</i>, -I. 130.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Vice thus abused, demands a nation’s care;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">This calls the Church to deprecate our sin,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And hurls the thunder of our laws on gin.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Pope has added a note to this passage, to the effect -that gin had almost destroyed the lowest rank of -the people before it was restrained by Parliament -in 1736.</p> - -<p>Another early allusion to Geneva is to be found in -<i>Carmina Quadragesimalia</i>, Oxford, 1723, vol. i., p. 7, -in a copy of verses contributed by Salusbury Cade, -elected from Westminster to Ch. Ch. in 1714.</p> - -<p>The thesis of which Salusbury Cade maintained -the affirmative, is whether life consists in heat, or -in the original <i>An vita consistat in calore?</i></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Dum tremula hyberno Dipsas superimminet igni</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Et dextra cyathum sustinet, ore tubum,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Alternis vicibus fumos hauritque, bibitque,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Quam dat arundo sitim grata Geneva levat.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Languenti hic ingens stomacho est fultura, nec alvus</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Nunc Hypochondriacis flatibus ægra tumet.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Liberior fluit in tepido nunc corpore sanguis,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Hinc nova vis membris et novus inde calor.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Si quando audieris vetulam hanc periisse: Genevæ</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Dicas ampullam non renovasse suam.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Which being Englished, is</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Dipsas, who shivers by her wintry fire,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">While her pipe’s smoke ascends in spire on spire,</div><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_130"></a>[130]</span> - <div class="verse indent0">Alternate puffs and drinks—Geneva lays</div> - <div class="verse indent0">That thirst the weed is wont in her to raise.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">With this her belly propped, its pain expels;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Intestine wind no more her stomach swells;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">A freer blood runs leaping through her frame,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">New heat, new strength recalls the ancient game.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And should you hear she’s dead, the cause you’ll know</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Was that Geneva in her jug ran low.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>In the <i>Dunciad</i>, which Pope wrote in 1726 (book iii., -l. 143), we read,—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“A second see, by meeker manners known,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And modest as the maid that sips alone;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">From the strong fate of drams if thou get free,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Another D’Urfey, Ward! shall sing in thee!</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Thee shall each ale-house, thee each gill-house<a id="FNanchor_64" href="#Footnote_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a> mourn,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And answering gin-shops sourer sighs return.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>An early allusion to Geneva is in a poem by -Alexander Blunt, Distiller, 8vo, 1729, price 6<i>d.</i>, called -“Geneva,” addressed to the Right Honourable Sir -R⸺ W⸺. It commences,</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Thy virtues, O Geneva! yet unsung</div> - <div class="verse indent0">By ancient or by modern bard, the muse</div> - <div class="verse indent0">In verse sublime shall celebrate. And thou</div> - <div class="verse indent0">O W⸺ statesman most profound! vouchsafe</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To lend a gracious ear: for fame reports</div> - <div class="verse indent0">That thou with zeal assiduous dost attempt</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Superior to <i>Canary</i> or <i>Champaigne</i></div> - <div class="verse indent0">Geneva salutiferous to enhance;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To rescue it from hand of porter vile,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And basket woman, and to the bouffet</div><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_131"></a>[131]</span> - <div class="verse indent0">Of lady delicate and courtier grand</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Exalt it; well from thee may it assume</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The glorious modern name of <i>royal</i> <span class="smcap">Bob</span>!”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Though “Brandy cognac, Jamaica Rum, and costly -Arrack” are alluded to, there is no mention of -Hollands in the poem, which is a defence of <i>Geneva</i> -against <i>ale</i>.</p> - -<p>In this poem a statement is contained that Geneva -was introduced by William III., and that he himself -drank it.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent24">“Great Nassau,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Immortal name! Britain’s deliverer</div> - <div class="verse indent0">From slavery, from wooden shoes and chains,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Dungeons and fire; attendants on the sway</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Of tyrants bigotted and zeal accurst,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Of holy butchers, prelates insolent,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Despotic and bloodthirsty! He who did</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Expiring liberty revive (who wrought</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Salvation wondrous!) God-like hero! He</div> - <div class="verse indent0">It was, who to compleat our happiness</div> - <div class="verse indent0">With liberty, restored Geneva introduced.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">O Britons. O my countrymen can you</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To glorious William now commence ingrates</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And spurn his ashes? Can you vilify</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The sovereign cordial he has pointed out,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Which by your own misconduct only can</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Prove detrimental? Martial William drank</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Geneva, yet no age could ever boast</div> - <div class="verse indent0">A braver prince than he. Within his breast</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Glowed every royal virtue! Little sign,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">O Genius of <i>malt liquor</i>! that Geneva</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Debilitates the limbs and health impairs</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And mind enervates. Men for learning famed</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And skill in medicine prescribed it then</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Frequent in recipe, nor did it want</div><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_132"></a>[132]</span> - <div class="verse indent0">Success to recommend its virtues vast</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To late posterity.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>In 1736 Lord Hervey, describing the state of -England, says: The drunkenness of the common -people was so universal by the retailing a liquor called -Gin, with which they could get drunk for a groat, that -the whole town of London and many towns in the -country swarmed with drunken people from morning -till night, and were more like a scene of a Bacchanal -than the residence of a civil society.</p> - -<p>Retailers exhibited placards in their windows, intimating -that people might get drunk for the sum -of 1<i>d.</i> and that clean straw would be provided for -customers in the most comfortable of cellars.</p> - -<p>On Feb. 20, 1736, in the ninth year of George II., -a petition of the Justices of the Peace for Middlesex -against the excessive use of spirituous liquors was -presented to the House of Commons, setting forth: -That the drinking of Geneva and other distilled spirituous -liquors had greatly increased, especially among -the people of inferior rank, that the constant and -excessive use thereof had destroyed thousands of his -Majesty’s subjects, debauching their morals, etc., that -the “pernicious liquor” was then sold not only by the -distillers and Geneva shops, but many other persons -of inferior trades, “by which means journeymen, -apprentices and servants were drawn in to taste, -and by degrees to like, approve, and immoderately -to drink thereof,” and that the petitioners therefore -prayed that the House would take the premises into -their serious consideration, etc. The House having<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_133"></a>[133]</span> -resolved itself into a committee on Feb. 23, Sir Joseph -Jekyll moved the following resolutions: (1) That the -low price of spirituous liquors is the principal inducement -to the excessive and pernicious use thereof. -(2) That a discouragement should be given to their -use by a duty. (3) That the vending, etc., of such -liquors be restrained to persons keeping public brandy-shops, -victualling houses, coffee houses, ale houses and -inn-holders, and to such apothecaries and surgeons -as should make use of the same by way of medicine -only; and, (4) That no person keeping a public -brandy-shop, etc., should be permitted to vend, etc., -such liquors, but by licence with duty payable thereon. -These Resolutions were agreed on without debate.</p> - -<p>On March 8, Mr. William Pulteney affixed a duty -of 20<i>s.</i> per gallon on gin, on the grounds of ancient -use and sanction, and of its reducing many thousands -of families at once to a state of despair.</p> - -<p>Sir Robert Walpole had no immediate concern in -the laying of this tax on spirituous liquors, but suffered -therefrom much unmerited obloquy. The bill was -presented by Jekyll from a spirit of philanthropy, -which led him to contemplate with horror the -progress of vice that marked the popular attachment -to this inflammatory poison. The populace showed -their disapprobation of this Act in their usual fashion -of riot and violence. We are told in Coxe’s Walpole -that numerous desperados continued the clandestine -sale of gin in defiance of every restriction.</p> - -<p>The duty of 20<i>s.</i> per gallon was repealed 16 Geo. II., -c. 8. On the 28th of September, 1736, it was deemed<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_134"></a>[134]</span> -necessary to send a detachment of sixty soldiers from -Kensington to protect the house of Sir Joseph Jekyll, -the Master of the Rolls, in Chancery Lane, from the -violence threatened by the populace against this -eminent lawyer. Two soldiers with their bayonets -fixed were planted as sentinels at the little door next -Chancery Lane, and the great doors were shut up, -the rest of the soldiers kept garrison in the stables in -the yard.</p> - -<p>This agitation gave rise to many a ballad and -broadside, such as the “Fall of Bob,” or the “Oracle of -Gin,” a tragedy; and “Desolation, or the Fall of Gin,” -a poem.</p> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">The Lamentable Fall of Madame Geneva.</span>—<i>29 -Sept., 1736.</i><a id="FNanchor_65" href="#Footnote_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a></p> - -<p class="center">The Woman holds a song to yᵉ tune to yᵉ Children -in yᵉ Wood.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Good lack, good lack, and Well-a-day,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">That Madame Gin should fall:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Superior Powers she must obey.</div> - <div class="verse indent2">This Act will starve us all.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>The Man has the second part to yᵉ same tune.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Th’ Afflicted she has caus’d to sing,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">The Cripple leap and dance;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">All those who die for love of Gin</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Go to Heaven in a Trance.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_135"></a>[135]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/illus31.jpg" width="550" height="700" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_136"></a>[136]</span></p> - -<p>Underneath are the following verses—</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_137"></a>[137]</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“The Scene appears, and Madame’s Crew</div> - <div class="verse indent0">In deep Despair, Exposed to view.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">See Tinkers, Cobblers, and cold Watchmen,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">With B⸺s and W⸺s as drunk as Dutchmen.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">All mingling with the Common Throng,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Resort to hear her Passing Song.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Whilst Mirth suppress’d by Parliament,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">In Sober Sadness all lament,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Pursued by Jekyl’s indignation,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">She’s brought to utter desolation.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">With Oaths they storm their Monarch’s name,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And curse their Hands that form’d the Scheme.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“All Billingsgate their Case Bemoan,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And Rag-fair Change in Mourning’s hung;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Queen Gin, for whom they’d sacrifice</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Their Shirts and Smocks, nay, both their Eyes.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Rather than She want Contribution,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">They’d trudge the Streets without their shoes on.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>The following verses on the Gin Act, in 1736, are -supposed by John Nichols to be the production of Dr. -Johnson.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Pensilibus fusis cyatho comitata supremo,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Terribili fremitu stridula mæret anus.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">O longum formosa vale mihi vita decusque,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Fida comes mensæ fida comesque tori!</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Eheu quam longo tecum consumerer ævo,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Heu quam tristitiæ dulce lenimen eras.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Æternum direpta mihi, sed quid moror istis,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Stat, fixum est, nequeunt jam revocare preces;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">I, quoniam sic fata vocant, liceat mihi tantum,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Vivere te viva te moriente mori.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>A clever cento from the Latin poets, which may be -thus represented in English:—</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_138"></a>[138]</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent10">“... Left with her last glass alone,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Thus loud laments her lot, the squeaking crone:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Farewell, my life and beauty, thou art sped,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Faithful companion of my board and bed!</div> - <div class="verse indent0">My earthly term fain with thee would I live,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Who to my sorrowing heart can’st solace give.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Bereft of gin, alas! am I for aye!</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The Act is passed. ’Tis all in vain to pray.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Go where the Fates may call, and know that I</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Living, with thee would live, and dying, die!”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Hogarth’s Gin Lane was advertised in 1751, with a -note that, as its subject was calculated to reform some -reigning vices peculiar to the lower class of people, in -hopes to render them of more extensive use, the author -had published them in the cheapest manner possible. -“The cheapest manner possible” was one shilling -which in those days was a fairly good price for a print. -The following lame and defamatory verse was composed -for the occasion by the Rev. James Townley:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse center">“<span class="smcap">Gin Lane.</span></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">Gin, cursed fiend, with fury fraught,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Makes human race a prey;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">It enters by a deadly draught,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">And steals our life away.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Virtue and Truth, driven to despair,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Its rage compels to fly;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">But cherishes, with hellish care,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Theft, murder, perjury.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Damned cup, that on the vitals preys,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">That liquid fire contains;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Which madness to the heart conveys,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">And rolls it through the veins.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Hogarth tells us that in Gin Lane every circumstance -of the horrid effects of gin drinking is brought to view<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_139"></a>[139]</span> -<i>in terrorem</i>. Idleness, poverty, misery, and distress, -which drives even to madness and death, are the only -objects that are to be seen; and not a house in tolerable -condition but the pawnbrokers and gin shop. -The same moral is taught by Cruikshank, but not -before his conversion to teetotalism.</p> - -<p>Schiedam is the metropolis of gin, and its numerous -distilleries are omnivorous, taking with equal relish cargoes -of rye and buckwheat from Russia, and damaged -rice or any cereal from other countries, and sometimes -also potato spirit from Hamburg.</p> - -<p>The distillery of De Kuypers is probably that of the -greatest note, and that firm’s black square bottles, -packed in cases filled with hemp husks, are known all -over the world. In Africa “square face” is king, but -he frequently holds some counterfeit liquor, even sometimes -the vilest of Cape Smoke.</p> - -<p>Schiedam is the Mecca of the Dutchman, the birthplace -of his beloved Schnapps. This drink is always -acceptable, and fifty good reasons exist for drinking it.</p> - -<p>The chief varieties of the aromatised popular spirit -called gin are now known as Geneva, Hollands, and -Schiedam. It is current in some parts of Africa as a -species of coin.</p> - -<p>Since, however, every distiller varies his materials -and their proportions, the species of this beverage are -practically unlimited. Generally, however, the distinction -is clear between Hollands or Dutch and English -gin. The former is commonly purer than the highly -flavoured and too frequently adulterated British product.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_140"></a>[140]</span></p> - -<p>The matters employed in the adulteration are very -many. Corianders, crushed almond cake, angelica -root powdered, liquorice, cardamoms, cassia, cinnamon, -grains of paradise, and cayenne pepper, and many -more substances take the place of the berries of the -juniper tree. As these substances frequently produce -a cloudy appearance, the liquid is subsequently refined -by other adulterants, such as alum, sulphate of zinc, -and acetate of lead.</p> - -<p>The variety of gin dear to ancient beldams, which is -known as Cordial, is more highly sweetened and aromatized -than the ordinary quality.</p> - -<p>The alcoholic strength of gin as commonly sold -ranges from 22 to 48 degrees. The amount of sugar -varies between 2 and 9 per cent.</p> - -<p>Gin is a beneficial diuretic, but the compounds sold -under that name are too often detrimental in their -effects.</p> - -<p>A popular drink called gin-sling takes its name from -John Collins, formerly a celebrated waiter in Limmer’s -old house. The old lines on this drink ran as -follows:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“My name is John Collins, head waiter at Limmer’s,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Corner of Conduit Street, Hanover Square.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">My chief occupation is filling of brimmers</div> - <div class="verse indent2">For all the young gentlemen frequenters there.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>The poetry is very far from bad, and so was the -liquor. It was a composition of gin, soda water, -lemon, and sugar. John was abbreviated to gin and -Collins to sling.</p> - -<p>Gin has had many popular names, but why gin<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_141"></a>[141]</span> -should be called Old Tom by the publicans and lower -orders of London has sometimes puzzled those who -are inquisitive enough to consider the subject etymologically. -The answer may, perhaps, be found in a -curious book, called “The Life and Uncommon Adventures -of Captain Dudley Bradstreet, Dublin, 1755.” -Captain Dudley, a government spy of the Count -Fathom species, after declaring that the selling of -Geneva in a less quantity than two gallons had been -prohibited, says: “Most of the gaols were full, on -account of this Act, and it occurred to me to venture -upon the trade. I got an acquaintance to rent a house -in Blue Anchor Alley, in St. Luke’s parish, who -privately conveyed his bargain to me: I then got it -well secured, and laid out in a bed and other furniture -five pounds, in provision and drink that would keep, -about two pounds, and purchased in Moorfields the -sign of a cat and had it nailed to a street window. I -then caused a leaden pipe, the small end out about -an inch, to be placed under the paw of the cat, the -end that was within had a funnel to it.</p> - -<p>“When my house was ready for business I inquired -what distiller in London was most famous for good -gin, and was assured by several that it was Mr. L⸺dale, -in Holborn.<a id="FNanchor_66" href="#Footnote_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a> To him I went, and laid out thirteen -pounds.... The cargo was sent to my house, at -the back of which there was a way to go in or out. -When the liquor was properly disposed, I got a person<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_142"></a>[142]</span> -to inform a few of the mob that gin would be sold by -the cat at my window next day, provided they put the -money in his mouth, from whence there was a hole -which conveyed it to me.” This, by the way, is a rare -anticipation of our automatic sweetstuff, scent, and other -machines. To continue: “At night I took possession -of my den, and got up early next morning to be ready -for custom. It was over three hours before anybody -called, which made me almost despair of the project; -at last I heard the chink of money and a comfortable -voice say, ‘Puss, give me two pennyworth of gin!’ -I instantly put my mouth to the tube and bid them -receive it from the pipe under her paw”—the cat -seems to have changed its sex in this short interval of -time—“and then measured and poured it into the funnel, -from whence they soon received it. Before night -I took six shillings, the next day about thirty shillings, -and afterwards three or four pounds a day. From all -parts of London people used to resort to me in such -numbers that my neighbours could scarcely get in and -out of their houses. After this manner I went on for -a month, in which time I cleared upwards of two-and-twenty -pounds.”</p> - -<p>So far Captain Bradstreet, “but,” says the Editor of -<i>Notes & Queries</i>, “the ghost of ‘old Tom Hodges’ -will probably enter a protest against Captain Bradstreet’s -cat.”</p> - -<p>Another popular name for gin was used when Corinthian -Tom and Jerry Hawthorn visited Bob Logic in -the Fleet. Bob says, “Let us spend the day comfortably, -and in the evening I will introduce you both to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_143"></a>[143]</span> -my friend the haberdasher. He is a good whistler,<a id="FNanchor_67" href="#Footnote_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a> -and his shop always abounds with some prime articles -that you will like to look at....” A glass or two -of wine made them as gay as larks, and a hint from -Jerry to Logic about the whistler brought them into -the shop of the latter in a twinkling.</p> - -<p>Hawthorne, with great surprise, said, “Where are -we? This is no haberdasher’s. It’s a ⸺”</p> - -<p>“No nosing, Jerry,” replied Logic, with a grin; -“you’re wrong, the man is a dealer in tape.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/footer5.jpg" width="300" height="300" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_144"></a>[144]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header11.jpg" width="500" height="200" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="WHISKEY">WHISKEY.</h2> - -<p><i>Uisge-beatha</i>—“My Stint”—Its Manufacture—Good and Bad—Early -Mentions of Whiskey—Materials used in its Manufacture—St. -Thorwald—Duncan Forbes and Ferrintosh—Duty on -Whiskey—Silent Spirit—Artificial Maturing.</p> - -</div> - -<p>No matter in what country, wherever it was -known, alcohol has been hailed as the Water -of Life, even in the Gaelic. <i>Uisge-beatha</i>, or, as we -term it, whiskey, bears literally that interpretation. -This is “the wine of the country,” both in Ireland -and Scotland, and the quantities drank, without any -apparently hurtful effect, is astonishing to a southern -Englishman. Northwards, on the border land, it is -a question whether more whiskey is not drunk, <i>pro -rata</i>, than in Scotland.</p> - -<p>Still, even there, every one is not gifted, as was the -Irishman spoken of by John Wilson Croker. He tells -the story of a lawsuit, in which a life insurance company -disputed a claim, on the ground that the death -was caused by excessive drinking. One witness for -the plaintiff was called, who deposed that, for the last -eighteen years of his life, he had been in the nightly -habit of imbibing <i>twenty-four tumblers of whiskey -punch</i>. The cross-examining counsel wished to know<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_145"></a>[145]</span> -whether he would swear to that, or whether he ever -overstepped that limit. The witness replied that he -was upon his oath, and would swear no farther; “for -I never kept count beyond the two dozen, though -there is no saying how many beyond I might drink to -make myself comfortable; but <i>that’s my stint</i>.”</p> - -<p>Good whiskey should be made solely from the finest -barley malt, and is so made by the largest and best -distillers; but the smaller ones, and those who are in -a hurry to get rich by any means, use all kinds of -refuse grain, and produce a spirit which, if drank new, -is neither more nor less than rank poison. The fusel -oil, which is present in all distillations from grain, requires -time to resolve itself into those delicate ethers, -which, while enhancing the flavour and bouquet of the -spirit, are harmless. Good whiskey, properly matured, -mixed with a sufficient quantity of water, and used in -moderation, is a good and a wholesome drink, acting -also in lieu of food.</p> - -<p>When this life-giving liquor was discovered is uncertain. -Edward Campion, in his <i>History of Ireland</i>, -1633, speaking of a famine which happened in 1316, -says that it was caused by the soldiers eating flesh and -drinking <i>aqua vitæ</i> in Lent; and, in another place, he -states that a knight, called Savage, who lived in 1350, -having prepared an army against the Irish, allowed to -every soldier, before he buckled with the enemy, a -mighty draught of <i>aqua vitæ</i>, wine, or old ale.</p> - -<p>Walter Harris, in his <i>Hibernica</i>, 1757, says that in -the reign of Henry VIII. it was decreed that there be -but one maker of <i>aqua vitæ</i> in every borough town,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_146"></a>[146]</span> -upon pain of 6<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i>; and that no <i>wheaten malt</i> go to -any Irishman’s country, upon pain of forfeiture of the -same in value, except only bread, ale, or <i>aqua vitæ</i>.</p> - -<p>In a little book, <i>Delightes for Ladies</i>, etc., 1602, -is the following recipe for <i>Usquebath, or Irish Aqua -Vitæ</i>:—</p> - -<p>“To every gallon of good Aqua Composita, put two -ounces of chosen liquerice, bruised and cut into small -peeces, but first clensed from all his filth, and two -ounces of Annis seeds that are cleane and bruised. -Let them macerate five or six daies in a wodden -Vessel, stopping the same close, and then draw off as -much as will runne cleere, dissolving in that cleare -Aqua Vitæ five or six spoonfuls of the best Malassoes -you can get; Spanish cute, if you can get it, is thought -better than Malassoes; then put this into another -vessell; and after three or foure daies (the more the -better), when the liquor hath fined itself, you may use -the same; some add Dates and Raisons of the Sun to -this receipt: those groundes which remaine, you may -redistill, and make more Aqua Composita of them, and -of that Aqua Composita you may make more Usquebath.”</p> - -<p>The distillation of whiskey in Ireland, on a large -scale, is of comparatively modern date, the <i>poteen</i> -having been manufactured in illicit stills, in inaccessible -and unhandy places. Now, Roe’s distillery turns out -over two million gallons a year, and Jameson’s more -than a million and a half. The whiskey made by these -firms, that of Sir John Power & Sons, and some others, -is distilled from pure malt; but there are many distilleries<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_147"></a>[147]</span> -that send out a spirit made from molasses, -beet-root, potatoes, and other things, which cannot -possibly be called whiskey, which has brought Irish -whiskey somewhat into disrepute, to the great advantage -of the Scotch distillers. Again, unmalted grain is -used, which gives a practically tasteless spirit, which -is almost entirely deficient in the grateful ethers, and -is only so much raw alcohol and water, a very different -article to that which occasioned the following verses:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Oh, Whiskey Punch, I love you much, for you’re the very thing,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To level all distinctions ’twixt a beggar and a king.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">You lift me up so aisy, and so softly let me down,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">That the devil a hair I care what I wear, a caubeen or a crown.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“While you’re a-coorsin’ through my veins I feel mighty pleasant,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">That I cannot just exactly tell whether I’m a prince or peasant;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Maybe I’m one, maybe the other, but that gives me small trouble,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">By the Powers! I believe I’m both on ’em, for I think I’m seein’ double.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Scotch whiskey is the same as Irish, and should be -similarly made from pure malted barley. No one -knows when it was first made; but, until the time of -the Pretender, it was hardly known in the Lowlands, -being a drink strictly of the Highlanders. There is a -tradition of a certain St. Thorwald, whose name may be -sought for in vain in the pages of Alban Butler, who -had a cell in the side of a hill looking upon the Esk. -He is said to have possessed a wonderful elixir, famous<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_148"></a>[148]</span> -for curing all diseases, and, consequently, he was resorted -to by pilgrims both far and near. Could it be -that he had a whiskey still? We know not; but to -this day a spring on the site of his hermitage helps -to supply the Langholm distillery.</p> - -<p>Perhaps the earliest historical account of Scotch -whiskey is the grant, in 1690, to Duncan Forbes of -Culloden, in consideration of his services to William -III., of the privilege of distilling whiskey, duty free, -in the barony of Ferrintosh. Naturally, a number of -distilleries were erected there, and Ferrintosh became -the generic term for whiskey. In 1785 this grant was -annulled on payment of £20,000 to the representatives -of Duncan Forbes, a proceeding which Robert Burns -thus wrote about, in his “Scotch Drink”:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Thee, Ferrintosh! O sadly lost!</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Scotland laments from coast to coast!</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Now colic-grips an’ barkin’ hoast</div> - <div class="verse indent12">May kill us a’;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">For loyal Forbes’ <i>chartered boast</i></div> - <div class="verse indent12">Is ta’en awa’.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>The Highland risings made the Lowlanders more -familiar with this spirit; but it was a long time before -the drink became general, and a far longer before it -was generally introduced into England. “Bonnie -Prince Charlie” got too fond of it, and his affection -for strong drinks was life-long. George IV., on his -visit to Scotland, thought the best way to popularise -himself on his arrival was to call for, and drink, a glass -of whiskey; and even our good Queen has tasted -“Athol-brose.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_149"></a>[149]</span></p> - -<p>The manufacture of whiskey was encouraged for -several reasons: first, that it gave employment; -secondly, that it used up large quantities of grain, -to the benefit of the farmer; and thirdly, it was hoped -that it would, in many cases, supersede the French -brandy, which was most extensively smuggled. But -Government imposed so high a duty, that illicit stills -sprang up everywhere, and contraband whiskey was -universally drank, the smugglers openly bringing their -wares down south, and in such force as to defy the -Excise, and frequently the military. A wise step was -then taken, and in 1823 the excise duty was lowered -from 6<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> 4¾<i>d.</i> per imperial gallon, a proceeding -which, in a year, doubled the output of exciseable -spirits; but, by degrees, fiscal exigencies have raised -it to 10<i>s.</i> per proof gallon. Now, the quantity of home-made -spirits on which duty was paid for the year -ending 31st March, 1890, is as follows:—</p> - -<table summary="The quantity of home-made -spirits on which duty was paid for the year -ending 31st March, 1890"> - <tr> - <th>England.</th> - <th>Scotland.</th> - <th>Ireland.</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <th><i>Galls.</i></th> - <th><i>Galls.</i></th> - <th><i>Galls.</i></th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">12,636,060</td> - <td class="tdr">9,463,012</td> - <td class="tdr">7,521,998</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class="noindent">or in all, 29,621,070 gallons, yielding a revenue of -£14,810,522.</p> - -<p>It would be invidious to particularize any of the -large Scotch distilleries, which mostly owe their fame -to the excellence of their malt and the extreme purity -of their water, together with the fact that peat is extensively -used as fuel, even to the drying of the malt; -but “Glenlivet” has a name as world-wide as “Ferrintosh.” -Do we not read in the <i>Bon Gaultier -Ballads</i> that—</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_150"></a>[150]</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Fhairhson had a son</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Who married Noah’s daughter,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And nearly spoiled ta flood,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">By trinking up ta water;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Which he would have done,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">I at least pelieve it,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Had ta mixture peen</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Only half Glenlivet”?</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>It was such a famous place that, according to the -<i>Ordnance Gazetteer of Scotland</i>, there were as many -as 200 illicit stills there, in brisk work, at the beginning -of the present century.</p> - -<p>“Small still” whiskey is undoubtedly the best, for -only good materials can be used, as the distillation -carries over the flavour of the malt. Hear what Dr. -Thudicum says<a id="FNanchor_68" href="#Footnote_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a>:—</p> - -<p>“The product of the patent still derives its name -from the fact that it is mere alcohol and water, having -no distinctive qualities, telling no tales to nose or -palate of the source from which it was obtained, and -hence, in the almost poetic spirit of the trade, it is -commonly called ‘silent spirit.’ The owner of a -patent still, instead of being confined, like a whiskey -distiller, to the use of the best materials, is able to -make his spirit from any, even spoiled and waste, -materials, and with little reference to any other quality -than cheapness. The worst of the spirit thus produced -is fit only for methylation, preparatory for being used -for trade purposes, exclusive of consumption as a -beverage. When intended for a beverage, it must -be rectified and flavoured. It thus serves as a basis<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_151"></a>[151]</span> -for the implanting of artificial flavours, which may -be those of sham whiskey, sham brandy, or sham -rum....</p> - -<p>“The presence of grain ethers is the condition of -the genuineness of whiskey. Silent spirit, on the -other hand, undergoes no change by keeping, and -must be flavoured to become drinkable. For that -purpose it is either made smoky, to become like -Scotch, or it is mixed with Irish pot whiskey, to -become like Irish whiskey.”</p> - -<p>There is yet another and a newer way of altering -whiskey, which was shown in the Brewers’ Exhibition -at Islington, October, 1890, and described in an -advertisement in a morning paper as “A Transformation -Scene; no Pantomime.” This new process of -maturing spirits is by subjecting them to the action -of compressed air confined in a close chamber. Nothing -but atmospheric air is used, which is filtered -through pure water before being compressed. The -air chamber shown was a cylindrical vessel, which, in -practice, would be some twelve feet high or more. It -is supplied with a finely perforated floor, at a convenient -distance below the top, and it has, besides, one or -two lower floors of metallic gauze. The cylinder is -charged with the liquor to be treated, and the compressed -air is then let into it. The taps having been -closed on the completion of this operation, a rotary -pump keeps the liquor in continuous circulation as it -passes through the floors in the form of a fine shower. -As soon as it reaches the gauze floor it breaks up into -spray, and, in this minute state of sub-division, it is<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_152"></a>[152]</span> -acted on by the condensed air. This air, rising through -a pipe, collects at the top of the cylinder, and in that -way it is prevented from interfering with the steady -flow of the shower. A slight circulation of the air is -at the same time promoted. On the process being -completed, the liquor is run into casks, and the air -which remains in the vessel is allowed to escape, the -quantity of alcohol in combination with it not being -worth saving.</p> - -<p>The object of this process is to bring about the -oxidation of the essential oils contained in the whiskey -or other spirit, and to promote their conversion into -ethers. It is claimed that this transformation does -take place, and that the spirit is changed from a new -spirit, and has all the character, mellowness, and -flavour of that matured by time. This change is said -to be effected in twenty-four hours, and that the spirit -has, in that period, put on a maturity of ten years.</p> - -<p class="right">J. A.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/illus32.jpg" width="300" height="250" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">WOODEN CUAGH OR QUAIGH. (<i>Brit. Mus.</i>)</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_153"></a>[153]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header12.jpg" width="500" height="150" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="RUM">RUM.</h2> - -<p>Derivation of Name—Whence Procured—Its Manufacture—Its -Price—Trade Rum.</p> - -</div> - -<p>The etymon of the name of this spirit is somewhat -dubious. Some have it that it was -formerly spelt (as it now is in French) <i>Rhum</i>, and -that it is derived from <i>rheum</i>, or ῥεῦμα, a flowing, on -account of its manufacture from the juice of the sugar -cane. Others say that, as rum has the strongest -odour of any distilled spirit, it is a corruption of the -word <i>aroma</i>.</p> - -<p>Rum is made from the refuse of sugar, and can, of -course, be produced wherever sugar is grown. This -is notably the case in the West Indies, and the best -rum comes thence. The finest, and that commanding -the highest price in the market, is from Jamaica; -Martinique and Guadaloupe perhaps come next; and -Santa Cruz has a very good name. British Guiana, -the Brazils, Natal, Queensland, and New South -Wales all produce it.</p> - -<p>It is made from molasses and the skimmings of the -boiling sugar. Molasses is the syrup remaining after<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_154"></a>[154]</span> -the separation of all the saccharine matter which will -crystallize, and is a dense, viscous liquid, varying from -light yellow to nearly black, according to the source -from which it is obtained; but its distillation will not -produce rum. Sugar or molasses, if distilled, will -produce alcohol, but it will have no character of -rum. This peculiar odour is imparted to it by the -addition, in distillation, of “skimmings,” which are -the matters separated from the sugar in clarifying and -evaporation; that is to say, the scum of the precipitators, -clarifiers and evaporators is mixed with the -rinsing of the boiling pans, and is thus called. They -contain all the necessaries of fermentation, and when -mixed with molasses and “dunder,” which is the fermented -wash left from distillation, are distilled into -rum.</p> - -<p>The odour of rum is very volatile; so much so, that -it should be casked immediately after distillation. -The raw spirit is extremely injurious; but it improves -so much by age that, at a sale in Carlisle in 1865, -rum, known to be 140 years old, sold at three guineas -a bottle. Like all alcohol, rum, when distilled, is -white, the colour being given to it, as it used to be -in brown brandy, by caramel (burnt sugar). Much -of the rum sold in England is made from “silent” -spirit, flavoured with butyric ether; and it is this stuff -which is sold as “trade rum” for export to Africa. -Some years since an action was brought by an African -merchant against the vendor of “trade rum” for -damages caused by it to his trade. All went merrily -till the negroes drank the rum, when it suddenly<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_155"></a>[155]</span> -ceased, owing to its colouring their excreta red, -probably owing to the colouring matter.</p> - -<p>In the old days of punch drinking, rum was the -great ingredient in that beverage, but its use has -gradually died out, except among sailors, it still being -served out in the navy, on account of its supposed -warming qualities. Rum and milk, taken before -breakfast, is also a beverage used very extensively.</p> - -<p class="right">J. A.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 275px;"> -<img src="images/footer6.jpg" width="275" height="400" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_156"></a>[156]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header13.jpg" width="500" height="175" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="LIQUEURS_I">LIQUEURS.<br /> -I.</h2> - -<p>Derivation of Term—Eichhoff—Gregory of Tours—Liqueur Wines—Herb -Wines—Scot’s <i>Ivanhoe</i>—Hydromel—Murrey—Delille—Montaigne—Monastical -Liqueurs—Arnold de Villeneuve—Catherine -de Medicis—Elixir Ratafia.</p> - -</div> - -<p>The word <i>liqueur</i> has been traced by Eichhoff -to a Sanskrit root, viz., <i>laks</i> or <i>lauc</i>, to see, -appear. It is now commonly understood of a drink -obtained by distillation, a beverage of which alcohol is -the base.</p> - -<p>To the ancients liqueurs appear to have been unknown. -The art of distillation on which they depend -was not apparently discovered till the middle ages. -Fermented wines, of which some description will be -found in another part of this book, occupied their -place at dinner and dessert. Old Falernian when mixed -with honey probably bore some near resemblance to -what is now understood by liqueur. But this drink -was found to have such disastrous effects by way of -intoxication that it was forbidden to women to drink -of it.</p> - -<p>Our ancestors, perhaps in imitation of the ancients, -composed a sort of liqueur with the must of wine, in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_157"></a>[157]</span> -which they had infused berries of the <i>lentiscus</i>, or a -portion of its tender wood. The artificial wines made -either with this <i>lentiscus</i>, or with other aromatic herbs, -called by Gregory of Tours <i>vina odoramentis immixta</i>, -were the only approaches to the modern liqueurs, even -some time after the discovery of the process of distillation.</p> - -<p>Among these liqueur wines must be mentioned that -species of cooked wine which was the result of a portion -of must reduced to half or a third of its original -bulk by boiling. The capitularies of Charlemagne -speak of this drink as <i>vinum coctum</i>, and the southern -provinces called it <i>Sabe</i>, from the Latin <i>sapa</i>, which -with the Romans had the same signification. Both -Galen and Hippocrates refer to a Greek composition -called <i>Siræum</i> or <i>Hepsema</i>, which, says Pliny, -we call <i>sapa</i>. The fashion in which this wine was -cooked is shown in the <i>Pitture antiche d’Ercolano</i>, -t. I., tab. 35.</p> - -<p>Those artificial wines which consisted solely of infusions -of aromatic or medicinal plants, such as absinthe, -aloes, anise, rosemary, hyssop, and so on, were called -<i>herb wines</i>, and were frequently employed as remedies -and preventives. With a herb wine, the wine of a -honied absinthe, it was that Fredegonda poisoned him -who reproached her with the murder of the Pretextate. -The most famous of these wines were those into which -entered, besides honey, the spices and aromatic confections -of Asia, to which were given the name of pigments. -The highly spiced and “most odoriferous” -wine sweetened with honey is one of those drinks<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_158"></a>[158]</span> -which Cedric bids Oswald, in <i>Ivanhoe</i>,<a id="FNanchor_69" href="#Footnote_69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a> to place upon -the board for the refreshment of the Knight Templar. -It is mentioned in company with the oldest wine, the -best mead, the mightiest ale, the richest <i>morat</i>,<a id="FNanchor_70" href="#Footnote_70" class="fnanchor">[70]</a> and -the most sparkling cider.</p> - -<p>The poets of the thirteenth century speak of this -decoction with transport. They regarded it in the -light of an exquisite delicacy. As no gentleman’s -library is complete without the presence of some particular -work of which a bookseller is anxious to dispose, -so no feast at which pigment was not present -was held to be complete by the medieval <i>gourmet</i>. -Indeed this drink seems to have been all too sweet, -and was, in consequence of its inebriating property, -like the honied Falernian, partially prohibited. The -Council of Aix-la-Chapelle in 817 decreed that on -festival days only might this voluptuous cup be introduced -into conventual repasts.</p> - -<p>Hydromel and hippocras were allied to this category -of fermented and almost alcoholic drinks, but they -were not liqueurs. Finally certain liqueurs were composed -entirely of juices of fruits and held the rank and -title of wines. Such were cherry, gooseberry, strawberry -wine, and others. Another liqueur wine often -cited by the thirteenth-century poets is <i>Murrey</i>, a thin -drink coloured or otherwise affected by mulberries.</p> - -<p>The word liqueur appears to have had a considerable -latitude of signification. We talk now of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_159"></a>[159]</span> -coffee and liqueur, but according to the French poet -Delille, who lived at a time very near our own, coffee -itself was included under the latter category—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Cest toi, divin café, dont l’aimable liqueur</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Sans altérer la tête épanouit le cœur”:</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p class="noindent">which presents us with a view of coffee akin to that -held by Cowper of tea, when he talks in his <i>Task</i> -(Book IV.) of</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent18">“the cups</div> - <div class="verse indent0">That cheer but not inebriate.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Liqueurs, indeed, properly so called were not known -till long after the distillation of wine had been recognised, -probably about the fourteenth century. Many -years elapsed before these preparations escaped from -the domination of the alchemists. Those religious -who employed distillation for the confection of balsams -and panaceas seem to have been the first to discover -them to the world. Montaigne, in the strange account -he has written of his travel in Italy, speaks of the -Jesuits of Vicenza—the <i>Jesuates</i> as he calls them—who -had a liquor shop in their fair monastery, in which -were sold phials of scent for a crown. The good -fathers appear to have busied themselves in the intervals -of their religious exercises with distilling waters -of different herbs and flowers for the public use, as -well for medicine as for sensual delight. Speaking of -Verona, Montaigne says he saw also a religious of -monks who call themselves <i>Jesuates</i> of St. Jérosme. -They are dressed in white under a smoked robe with -little white caps. They are not priests, neither do<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_160"></a>[160]</span> -they say mass, nor preach,<a id="FNanchor_71" href="#Footnote_71" class="fnanchor">[71]</a> and they are for the most -part ignorant. But they make a boast to be excellent -distillers of <i>eau de naffé</i><a id="FNanchor_72" href="#Footnote_72" class="fnanchor">[72]</a> and other waters, both in -Verona and elsewhere.</p> - -<p>Monastical liqueurs are worthy of a paragraph to -themselves. So long as monks have existed, they seem -to have manifested a taste for the concoction of these -drinks. We can scarcely pass the shop window of -a liqueur-seller without having our attention attracted -by what the French call a <i>Kyrielle</i> or litany of flasks -of diverse forms, decorated with tickets bearing such -titles as the following:—<i>Liqueur des Chartreux</i>, -<i>Liqueur des Benedictins</i>, <i>Liqueur des Carmes</i>, <i>Liqueur -des Trappistes</i>, <i>Liqueur des Pères de Garaison</i>, <i>Liqueur -du P. Kermann</i>, and so on. A large volume might -well be composed on these liqueurs alone. About -their supposed virtues,—aperient, digestive, antiapoplectic, -antispasmodic, anticholeric, tonic, etc., that -book might be well supposed likely to stretch out as -far as the list of Banquo’s issue to the diseased imagination -of Macbeth.</p> - -<p>The search for the philosopher’s stone and the -powder of projection was by no means wholly fruitless. -It strengthened the hands of chemistry. It was also -the cradle of liqueurs. In the early part of the -middle ages the learned inhabitants of the convents<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_161"></a>[161]</span> -devoted their leisure time, of which they appear to -have had no lack, to the so-called <i>magnum opus</i>. The -<i>magnum opus</i>, the quintessence, the elixir of long life, -were three different denominations of one and the -same thing. Monkish intellectual toil was chiefly connected -at that time with the study of essences, spirits, -alcohols, and distillations. The plants which they -sought with the greatest eagerness were rosemary, -arnica, elder, camomile, sweet trefoil, rose, borage, -balm mint, snake weed, iris, etc.</p> - -<p>In the thirteenth century, Arnold de Villeneuve, a -celebrated physician, possessed with this devil of a -<i>magnum opus</i>, formulated the question of the quintessence -or elixir of long life in these terms, which -became afterwards a dogma for all his monastic -successors. “This is the secret, viz., to find substances -so homogeneous to our nature that they can -increase it without inflaming it, continue it without -diminishing it ... as our life continually loses -somewhat, until at last all is lost.” The outcome of -the long and patient labours of the monkish alchemists -was certain elixirs and liqueurs, of which the secret -composition was transmitted from generation to generation -in convents and monasteries. Such liqueurs -were in their origin simply a pharmaceutic product. -It is only within the last few years comparatively that -they have been converted into delicacies after dinner. -Our age bears the hall mark of positivism. The -monks labour no longer for the sole glory of God and -comfort of the sick. Their object at the present day -is to effect, it is affirmed, a ready and productive sale.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_162"></a>[162]</span> -It may be so; happily it is not our business to determine. -It is certain that a vast development has taken -place in the manufacture of the majority of the monkish -liqueurs. The <i>Chartreux</i> of <i>L’Isère</i> now realize -annual benefices of considerable value, of which a portion -is said to be contributed to the continually diminishing -Papal exchequer, under the title of Peter’s -pence. Of this medicinal liqueur the active and -benevolent element is gathered from herbs scattered -on the Alpine mountains cold, or on the slopes of the -Pyrenees, or in the sombre forests of the north (see -the Prospectus), or in the shops of the apothecaries. -But they all assuredly depend upon cognac for their -element of life. <i>Benedictine</i>, with its four cabalistic -letters, A M D G,<a id="FNanchor_73" href="#Footnote_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a> is made by the monks of Fécamp, -at the famous Carthusian monastery of <i>La Grande -Chartreuse</i>, near Grenoble. The elixir of long life, <i>de -Sept-Fonds</i>, is made in a convent of the Trappists of -l’Allier, and <i>Trappistine</i> is the work of the good -fathers of the abbey of <i>La Grâce-Dieu</i> (Doubs). It -is, however, affirmed that only Chartreuse, coloured -yellow or green at will, and Trappistine, are the -works of religious hands, while all other liqueurs are -made by the laics. The methods of fabrication employed -in the convents are now well known.<a id="FNanchor_74" href="#Footnote_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a> Benedictine -is the only liqueur which has escaped analysis.</p> - -<p><i>Absinthe</i> is not strictly a liqueur. It substitutes -bitter for sweet. This strong spirituous liquor, so -prejudicial to French health and morality, is, however,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_163"></a>[163]</span> -commonly called a liqueur. Its base is an alcoholate, -composed of anise, coriander, and fennel. It is -flavoured with wormwood, a species of <i>artemisia</i>, and -other plants containing <i>absinthin</i>. It is said to be -commonly coloured with indigo and sulphate of copper. -It is prepared chiefly in Switzerland, but much of it is -made at Bordeaux.</p> - -<p>Arnold de Villeneuve, in his medical treatise, written -in Latin, <i>On the preservation of youth and the retardation -of age</i>, has a sermon upon Golden water. “I have -not,” he says, “read the properties of this water in -books of distinguished authority, but it is to be presumed -that, if it exists, it is so sublime a work that they have -concealed the method of its preparation, and have -even refused to mention its name. Of gold, however, -they have spoken, and set it among cordial medicines. -They have praised it for the comforting of the heart -and for the palliation of leprosy. It is possible that -since we every day find things diversified by alteration -of substance, acquiring the operations of those -other things into which they have been transformed, -so out of wine may be made a water of life very different -from wine both in colour and in substance, in effect -and in operation. And the doubt here is, not about -the fact, but how it is brought about. That the bodies -of all metals may be reduced into water by the ingenuity -of mankind, experience allows us not to question; -but the operation and nature of those things by -which this end is obtained it is no easy matter to discover.”</p> - -<p>This golden water was originally nothing else than<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_164"></a>[164]</span> -<i>eau de vie</i> in which had been macerated certain herbs -and aromatic spices to give it taste and colour; afterwards -minute portions of metallic gold were added. -The ingredients mentioned by Arnold de Villeneuve -are rosemary flowers, from which, he says, the water -obtains its golden colour, cinnamon, grains of paradise, -cloves, cubebs, liquorice, and the like.</p> - -<p>In the mind of the middle ages, gold was held to -be a remedy for every ill. Many people applied -themselves to the task of dissolving this metal and -rendering it potable. It was put into drinks, baths, -victuals, pills, and the pharmacopeia of the time -abounds in elixirs of gold, tinctures of gold, drops of -gold, and so on. To please the public eye, those -pieces of the precious metal were cast into the composition -which we now know as <i>Eau de vie de Dantzig</i>.</p> - -<p>Catherine de Medicis brought into France all the -voluptuous discoveries and superfluities of Italy, and -helped to augment considerably the number of new -liqueurs and to popularize their usage. Henry II. -was especially fond of the <i>anisette</i> of Marie Brizard -of Bordeaux. Sully, in 1604, examining the objects of -luxury in France, found <i>Populo</i> and <i>Rossolio</i> to have -the chief share in the public estimation and expenditure. -Of them <i>Populo</i> is mentioned in the Letters of -Gui-Patin.<a id="FNanchor_75" href="#Footnote_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a> It was composed of spirits of wine, -water, sugar, musk, amber, essence of anise, and essence -of cinnamon.</p> - -<p><i>Rossolis</i>, our <i>Rossolio</i>, or <i>Rossoli</i>, said to be derived,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_165"></a>[165]</span> -in consequence of its extreme excellence, from the dew -of the sun, <i>ros solis</i>, was made of burnt brandy, sugar, -and the juice of sweet fruits, such as cherries or mulberries. -Louis XIV. was much attached to this particular -liqueur. That prepared for him was said to -differ a little from the ordinary compound. A receipt -is given of the king’s drink.</p> - -<p>Equal quantities of <i>eau de vie</i> and Spanish wine, in -which were infused anise, coriander, fennel, citron, angelica, -and sugar-candy dissolved in camomile water, -and boiled to a thick syrup, were a distinctive feature -in this royal liqueur.</p> - -<p>Owing to oblivion or ignorance of the <i>anisette</i> of -Henri II. this monarchical recognition of <i>rossolio</i> has -led to the supposition that liqueurs were invented to -invigorate the senile decrepitude of Louis XIV., but -it has been shown that they existed long before his -time. George IV. is said to have been attached to -liqueurs in much the same way as Louis XIV., who -may have supposed that they in some measure improved -his health or arrested his decay.</p> - -<p>The liqueur industry is chiefly continental, and the -liqueurs are very numerous. Holland is famous for -its <i>Curaçoa</i> and Russia for its <i>Kümmel</i>, and almost -every large district of France has its own speciality of -liqueur. Bordeaux<a id="FNanchor_76" href="#Footnote_76" class="fnanchor">[76]</a> is remarkable for its <i>Anisette</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_166"></a>[166]</span> -Dijon for its <i>Cassis</i>, Marseilles for its <i>Absinthe</i>, Grenoble -for its <i>Ratafias</i>, and Paris and Lyons are each -noted for many different kinds.</p> - -<p>The English have attained as yet no high rank as -liqueur manufacturers. The prosaic nature of the -Trade Returns includes all liqueurs of foreign origin -under the heading of “<i>Sweetened or mixed Spirits</i>.” It -makes no distinction between Eaux and Crèmes or -between Ratafias and Elixirs. We have been told -that elixirs are yellow and aromatized, and eaux or -crèmes white, while ratafias are substantially infusions -of fruit. Originally this may have been so. It is not -the case at present.</p> - -<p>Both <i>Elixir</i> and <i>Ratafia</i> are interesting from an -etymological standpoint. The latter word has excited -considerable discussion. Menage, writing it as it was -commonly written in his time, <i>ratafiat</i>, says it is a -term derived from the East Indies. Leibnitz, on the -contrary, holds it to be a corruption of <i>rectifié</i> applied -to alcohol. Another etymology is <i>rata fiat</i>. Parties -were supposed to enter into a contract, and after -drinking the liqueur to say, “Let it be ratified.”</p> - -<p><i>Elixir</i><a id="FNanchor_77" href="#Footnote_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a> is an Arabic word derived from the Greek, -by which the alchemists denoted their powder of projection -or philosopher’s stone.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_167"></a>[167]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header14.jpg" width="500" height="200" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="LIQUEURS_II">LIQUEURS.<br /> -II.</h2> - -<p>Liqueur Maker’s Guide. <span class="smcap">German Liqueurs</span>: Eau d’Amour—Eau -Divine. <span class="smcap">Dantzig Liqueurs</span>: Eau Miraculeuse—Eau Aerienne. -<span class="smcap">French Liqueurs</span>: Vespetro—Scubac—Absinthe—Maraschino, -etc. Du Verger—Vermuth, etc.</p> - -</div> - -<p>To a humble and unpretending volume, little known -by the world, to the <i>Cordial and Liqueur Makers’ -Guide, and Publicans’ Instructor</i>, we are indebted for -a large part of the information in the present chapter. -This excellent and possibly unique volume of modern -date contains some two hundred receipts for the manufacture -of the most favourite drinks in their greatest -perfection; in addition to a variety of miscellaneous -matter of much practical utility to the publicans’ profession, -though of no immediate interest probably to -the readers of the present book. For instance, we are -taught therein the mysteries of <i>Spirit Beading</i>, or, in -exoteric language, the putting a head on weak spirits, -and the <i>fining</i> of sherry, port, gin, ale, and porter. -Most of the receipts, we are assured, have never before -appeared in print. They are the result of an experience -of some thirty years. A warning is given in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_168"></a>[168]</span> -preface about the common and extensive adulteration -of liqueurs with essential oils, turpentine, and spirits of -wine.</p> - -<p>In the first chapter of the <i>Cordial and Liqueur -Makers’ Guide</i>, we find receipts for those familiar -beverages which are most common in our respectable -public firms—public house is what Bentham would call -an emotional term—such as <i>Peppermint</i>, <i>Cloves</i>, <i>Rum -Shrub</i>, <i>Aniseed</i>, <i>Caraway</i>, <i>Noyeau</i>, <i>Raspberry</i>, <i>Gingerette</i>, -<i>Orange Bitters</i>, <i>Wormwood Bitters</i>, <i>Lemonade</i>, -<i>Capillaire</i>, <i>Cherry Brandy</i>, <i>Cinnamon</i>, <i>Lovage</i>, and -<i>Usquebaugh</i>—of these the receipt for <i>Lovage</i> may be -taken as a sole representative.</p> - -<p>This aromatic drink, which is comparatively rare, is -perhaps not generally known to be prepared from a -plant indigenous to Liguria, a country of Cisalpine -Gaul—from which country its name is through sundry -philological decadences derived.<a id="FNanchor_78" href="#Footnote_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</a> After reading this, -the student of human nature and mercantile morality -will be fully prepared to learn that the plant indigenous -to Liguria enters in no way into its composition.</p> - -<p>Mix, says the receipt, five drams of oil of nutmegs, -five drams of oil of cassia, and three drams of oil of -caraway in a quart of strong spirits of wine. Shake it -well, and put it into a ten gallon cask with two gallons -more of spirits of wine. Dissolve twenty pounds of -lump sugar in hot water, add this to the spirit with a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_169"></a>[169]</span> -quarter of a pint of colouring, and fill up the cask with -water. Fine it down with two ounces of alum dissolved -in boiling water, and put into the goods<a id="FNanchor_79" href="#Footnote_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</a> hot; -afterwards add one ounce of salts of tartar, and stir the -whole well together.</p> - -<p>The receipts which follow of German, Dantzig, and -French liqueurs postulate a preliminary grinding of all -dry substances, such as cloves or cinnamon; the cutting -into the smallest pieces of leaves, flowers, peels; and the -reducing to a paste, by means of a marble mortar, of -almonds and fruit kernels with a small quantity of -spirits to prevent them <i>oiling</i>.<a href="#Footnote_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</a> These ingredients -should be allowed to soak in the spirit for a month -with diurnal shakings in a warm place. Then the -spirit must be poured off and the water added after -the quantity in the receipt. After standing a few days, -pour off, press out all the liquid, mix with the spirit, -add sugar and colouring matter, and filter through a -flannel bag. In the matter of gold and silver leaf, an -attempt to break it when dry would reduce one half to -dust, and so spoil the appearance of the liqueur. It -must be spread on a plate which has a little thin syrup -on it. The leaf must also be covered with the syrup, -and then torn by means of two forks into small pieces -about the size of a canary seed. The leaf should not -be added until the liqueur is in the bottle. The -reader will observe the common use of capillaire.<a id="FNanchor_80" href="#Footnote_80" class="fnanchor">[80]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_170"></a>[170]</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">German Liqueurs.</span></h3> - -<h4><i>Eau de Sultane Zoraide.</i></h4> - -<p>Lemon peel, 8 ounces; orange peel, 8 ounces; figs, -8 ounces; dates, 4 ounces; jessamine flowers, 4 ounces; -cinnamon, 3 ounces; spirits of wine, 60 o.p., 19 quarts; -orange-flower water, 2 quarts; pure water, 12 quarts; -capillaire, 8 quarts. <i>Colour,<a id="FNanchor_81" href="#Footnote_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a> rose.</i></p> - -<h4><i>Eau Nuptiale.</i></h4> - -<p>Parsley seed, 6 ounces; carrot seed, 5 ounces; -aniseed, orris root, 2 ounces each; mace, 1½ ounces; -spirit, 60 o.p., 19 quarts; rose water, 7 pints; water, 11 -quarts; capillaire, 9 quarts. <i>Colour, yellow.</i></p> - -<h4><i>Eau d’ Amour.</i></h4> - -<p>Bitter almonds, lemon peel, 12 ounces each; cinnamon, -6 ounces; mace, 1 ounce; cloves, 1½ ounces; -lavender flowers, 8 ounces; spirits of wine, 60 o.p., -19 quarts; Muscat wine, 8 quarts; oil of amber, 36 -drops; water 7 quarts; capillaire, 7 quarts. <i>Colour, -rose.</i></p> - -<h4><i>Eau de Yalpa.</i></h4> - -<p>Marjoram, cinnamon, 3 ounces each; fennel seed, -thyme, sweet basil, bitter almonds, figs, balm, 2 ounces -each; carrot seed, sage, 1 ounce each; cardamom,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_171"></a>[171]</span> -cloves, ½ ounce each; spirits of wine, 60 o.p., 19 quarts; -essence of vanilla, 50 drops; essence of amber, 50 -drams; water, 14 quarts; capillaire 8 quarts. <i>Colour, -scarlet.</i></p> - -<h4><i>Eau Divine.</i></h4> - -<p>Lemon peel, 1½ pounds; coriander, 4 ounces; mace, -cardamom, 1 ounce each; spirits of wine, 60 o.p., 19 -quarts; oil of bergamot, 1½ drams; oil of Neroly,<a id="FNanchor_82" href="#Footnote_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a> 2 -drams; water, 14 quarts; capillaire, 8 quarts.</p> - -<h4><i>Eau de Pucelle.</i></h4> - -<p>Juniper berries, 1½ pounds; fennel seed, 4 ounces; -angelica seed, cinnamon, 3 ounces each; cloves, 1 -ounce; spirits of wine, 60 o.p., 19 quarts; water, 13 -quarts; capillaire, 10 quarts. <i>Colour, yellow.</i></p> - -<p>Other German liqueurs, according to our authority, -are <i>Eau de Zelia</i>, <i>de Rebecca</i>, <i>de Fantaisie</i>, <i>the ruby -Eau des Epicuriens</i>, <i>the Elixir Monfron</i>, <i>the Eau -Divine</i>, <i>the Eau d’Orient de Napoleon</i>, <i>de Didon</i>, <i>du -Dauphin</i>, <i>de Santé</i>, <i>Royale</i>, <i>Américaine</i>, <i>de Paix</i>, <i>de J. -Saint-Aure</i>, <i>de Mille-Fleurs</i>, <i>d’Argent</i>, <i>de Montpellier</i>, -<i>d’Ardelle</i>, <i>de Turin</i>, <i>de Tubinge</i>, <i>du Sorcier-Comte</i>, <i>de -Vertu</i>, <i>de Chypre</i>, <i>de Jacques</i>, <i>Romantique</i>, <i>Crème -Voizot</i>, <i>Aqua Bianca</i>, and many others.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Dantzig Liqueurs.</span></h3> - -<h4><i>Eau Miraculeuse.</i></h4> - -<p>Orange peel, lemon peel, 1 pound each; cinnamon, -ginger, 6 ounces each; rosemary leaves, 2 ounces;<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_172"></a>[172]</span> -galanga,<a id="FNanchor_83" href="#Footnote_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a> mace, cloves, 1 ounce each; orris root, 1½ -ounces; spirits of wine, 60 o.p., 19 quarts; capillaire, 8 -quarts; water, 14 quarts. <i>Colour, red.</i></p> - -<h4><i>Eau Aerienne.</i><a id="FNanchor_84" href="#Footnote_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a></h4> - -<p>Figs, 12 ounces; cumin, 5 ounces; leaves of rosemary, -fennel seed, 4 ounces each; cinnamon, 5 ounces; -sage, sassafras, 2 ounces each; lavender flowers, camomile -flowers, orris root, 4 ounces each; spirits of -wine, 60 o.p., 19 quarts; capillaire, 8 quarts; water, -14 quarts.</p> - -<p>Other Dantzig liqueurs mentioned are the <i>Eau de -vie de Dantzig</i>, <i>Eau Forcifère</i>, <i>Christophelet</i>, <i>Eau -Carminative</i>, <i>de Musettier</i>, <i>de Girofle</i>, <i>Persicot</i>, <i>Amer -d’Angleterre</i>, and <i>Eau des Favorites</i>, the ruby gold -sprinkled <i>Eau de Lisette</i>, the yellow <i>Krambambuli</i>,<a id="FNanchor_85" href="#Footnote_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a> -the <i>Eau de Baal</i>, and the <i>Liqueur des Évèques</i>.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">French Liqueurs.</span></h3> - -<h4><i>Vespetro.</i><a id="FNanchor_86" href="#Footnote_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a></h4> - -<p>Angelica seed, 3 ounces; coriander seed, 2 ounces; -fennel seed, aniseed, ½ ounce each; lemons sliced,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_173"></a>[173]</span> -oranges sliced, 6 ounces each; spirits of wine, 60 o.p., -12 quarts; water, 9½ pints; capillaire, 3 pints.</p> - -<h4><i>Eau de Scubac.</i><a id="FNanchor_87" href="#Footnote_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a></h4> - -<p>Lemon peel, 6 ounces; coriander, 4 ounces; aniseed, -juniper berries, cinnamon, 2 ounces each; angelica -root, 1½ ounces; saffron, 1 ounce; spirits of wine, 60 -o.p., 10 quarts; orange-flower water, 2 quarts; capillaire, -4 quarts; water, 8 quarts.</p> - -<h4><i>Elixir de Garus.</i><a id="FNanchor_88" href="#Footnote_88" class="fnanchor">[88]</a></h4> - -<p>Myrrh, aloes, 2 drams each; cloves, nutmegs, 3 -drams each; saffron, 1 ounce; cinnamon, 5 drams; -spirits of wine, p., 5 quarts; sugar, 6 pounds.</p> - -<h4><i>Amiable<a id="FNanchor_89" href="#Footnote_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a> Vainqueur.</i></h4> - -<p>Spirits of wine, p., 25 quarts; essential oil of citron, -1 ounce; of neroli, of angelica, ½ ounce each; tincture -of vanilla, 1 dram; sugar 12 pounds; water, 4 quarts.</p> - -<h4><i>Guignolet<a id="FNanchor_90" href="#Footnote_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a> d’Angers.</i></h4> - -<p>Spirits of wine, p., 12 quarts; cherries with the -stones, raspberries, gooseberries, red currants, 1 pound -each; oil of cinnamon, of cloves, 10 drops each; sugar, -7 pounds; water, 2 quarts.</p> - -<h4><i>Huile des Jeunes Mariés.</i></h4> - -<p>Aniseed, fennel seed, 2 ounces each; angelica seed, -cumin seed, caraway seed, 1 ounce each; coriander, 3<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_174"></a>[174]</span> -ounces; spirits of wine, p., 4 quarts; distilled water, 3 -quarts; sugar, 10 pounds. <i>Colour, yellow.</i></p> - -<p>Other French liqueurs worthy of notice are <i>Eau -Archiepiscopale</i>, <i>des Financiers</i>, <i>de Noyeau</i>, <i>de Phalsbourg</i>, -<i>de Jasmin</i>, <i>des chevaliers de Saint Louis</i>, <i>des -Pacificateurs de la Grèce</i>, <i>Souvenir d’un Brave</i>, -<i>Goûte Nationale</i>, <i>Coquette Flatteuse</i>, <i>Ratafias</i> of different -kinds, such as <i>Absinthe</i>, <i>Angelique</i>, <i>Celery</i>, <i>Quatre -Graines</i>,<a id="FNanchor_91" href="#Footnote_91" class="fnanchor">[91]</a> <i>Cerises</i>, <i>Noyeau</i> and <i>Carve</i>,<a id="FNanchor_92" href="#Footnote_92" class="fnanchor">[92]</a> <i>Amour sans -Fin</i>, <i>Gaîté Française</i>, <i>Plaisir des Dames</i>, <i>Citronelle</i>, -<i>Elixir Columbat</i>, <i>Eau des Chevaliers de la Legion -d’Honneur</i>, <i>Eau des Amis</i>, <i>Crème de Macaron</i>, and -<i>Eau de Pologne</i>, the crimson <i>Alkermes</i>, the emerald -<i>Huile des Venus</i>, the <i>Elixir des Anges</i>, the pale straw-coloured -<i>Eau de vie d’Andaye</i>,<a id="FNanchor_93" href="#Footnote_93" class="fnanchor">[93]</a> the crimson <i>Nectar des -Dieux</i>, and <i>Missilimakinac</i>.</p> - -<p>The most important, or rather the most popular in -this country, of the very numerous alcoholic preparations -which are flavoured, or perfumed, or sweetened, -or more commonly treated in all these three ways to -be agreeable to the taste are, placing them as they -suggest themselves:—</p> - -<p><i>Kümmel</i>, or <i>Kimmel</i>, as it is sometimes incorrectly -written, from the German name of the herb <i>cumin</i>, -is made with sweetened spirit, generally brandy, -flavoured with coriander and caraway seeds. It is<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_175"></a>[175]</span> -chiefly produced at Riga, and is much esteemed in -Java and the Eastern Archipelago generally.</p> - -<p><i>Maraschino</i> is distilled from bruised cherries. The -fruit and seed are crushed together. It is commonly -prepared in Italy and Dalmatia from a delicately -flavoured variety called <i>Marazques</i> or <i>Marascas</i>, a -small, black, wild cherry, so named, it is said, from its -bitterness. Zara, in Dalmatia, is the principal place of -production of <i>Maraschino</i>.</p> - -<p><i>Cassis</i><a id="FNanchor_94" href="#Footnote_94" class="fnanchor">[94]</a> (or <i>Cacis</i>) is a sort of ratafia made with the -fruit of the cassis, the vulgar French name of a species -of gooseberry with black berries.</p> - -<p><i>Noyau</i>, or <i>Crème de Noyau</i>, derived from the -French word for a kernel, is commonly prepared from -white brandy, bitter almonds or amygdalin, sugar candy, -mace, and nutmeg. Its distinctive flavour comes from -the amygdalin, or the kernels of peaches, plums, cherries, -apricots, and other fruit. In Dominica the bark of the -noyau tree (<i>Cerasus occidentalis</i>) is used, and in France -the leaves of a small convolvulus-like tropical plant -called <i>Ipomœa dissectis</i>. It is coloured white and pink.</p> - -<p><i>Ratafias</i> are called by du Verger <i>liqueurs de conversation</i>, -and <i>eau clairettes</i> and <i>hypoteques</i>, an old term -of which Menage expresses himself unable to find the -derivation as applied to a liqueur. The Master -Distiller considers them preferable to spirituous -liqueurs. Procope, the ancient Master of Paris, -includes under this term liqueurs, or syrups, as we -should say, of cherries, strawberries, gooseberries,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_176"></a>[176]</span> -apricots, peaches, and other fruits. He it was who -first proposed the pressure of the fruits, without infusing -them entire. Some years afterwards, Breard, one -of the chiefs of the fruitery of Louis XIV., gave these -liqueurs the name of <i>Hypoteques</i> to distinguish them. -The products both of Procope and Breard were of -the highest excellence. “‘I,’ says du Verger, ‘have -always considered Procope’s Ratafias as finer and more -delicate, those of Breard softer and more flowing; -but,’ he adds, ‘as tastes differ, both their Ratafias -have their approvers and their critics. It is difficult -to equal them in cold countries, either in taste or in -smell.’” They are called <i>Liqueurs of conversation</i>, -because, according to this authority, in talking after -meals, you may drink of them three or four times as -much as of other liqueurs without fear of any inconvenience. -Nay, they nourish and fortify the stomach, -and in addition to being pleasant to the palate, are -good friends of the liver.</p> - -<p>The first <i>Ratafia</i> was called <i>Eau de Cerises</i>, or -cherry water. The kernels should be added to the -juice of the fruit with cinnamon and mace in small -quantities. This renders the composition beneficent, -strengthens the brain, and banishes the vapours.</p> - -<p>The <i>Eau clairette de framboises</i> is also composed -of cherries, though a few strawberries are added to -give the dominant flavour. It should, therefore, says -the Master Distiller, be rather called <i>Eau clairette -framboisée</i>.</p> - -<p><i>L’eau clairette de groseilles</i> has a specific virtue -against biliousness.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_177"></a>[177]</span></p> - -<p><i>L’eau clairette de grenade</i> is the most agreeable of -<i>Ratafias</i>, but has an astringent property.</p> - -<p><i>L’eau clairette de coings</i> is still more estimable than -the preceding, and imparts a new activity to the -limbs.</p> - -<p><i>Eau clairette de Chamberri</i> should be made of the -ripest black grapes, a small quantity of spirit of wine, -a little sugar, and other ingredients. In addition to -giving an appetite, it rejoices the heart. The longer -it is kept, as in the case with all <i>Ratafias</i>, the better.</p> - -<p>The white <i>Ratafias</i>, or <i>Hypoteques</i>, should be mixed -with cinnamon, mace, cloves, and coriander. Under -these circumstances they render the blood balsamic. -The best fruits for white <i>Ratafias</i> are oranges, -peaches, and apricots.</p> - -<p><i>Curaçoa</i> derives its name from the group of small -islands in the West Indies, situated near the north -shore of Venezuela, in the Caribbean Sea. The -liqueur is made in these islands by the Dutch. It is -also made at Amsterdam from orange peel imported -from the Curaçoas. The bitter orange used is the -<i>Citrus bigaradia</i>.</p> - -<p>It is commonly obtained by digesting orange peel -in sweetened spirits, and flavouring with cinnamon, -cloves, or mace. The spirits employed are usually -reduced to nearly 56 under proof, and each gallon -contains about 3½ pounds of sugar. <i>Curaçoa</i> varies in -colour. The darker is produced by powdered Brazil -wood, mellowed by caramel.</p> - -<p><i>Parfait Amour</i> is a liqueur composed of several -ingredients, such as citron, clove, muscat, and others.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_178"></a>[178]</span></p> - -<p><i>Kirsch</i>, <i>Kirschwasser</i>, or <i>Kirschenwasser</i>, or cherry -water, is the genuine drink of the Black Forest. The -head-quarters of this liqueur, as Griesbach and Petersthal -in the Reuch valley, are rich in cherry trees of the -Machaleb variety. H. W. Wolff, in his <i>Rambles</i>, rises -into an almost poetic description of its virtues. “It -is,” he says, referring to the Black Foresters, “their -general stimulant and comforter, their consoler in -grief, their promoter of conviviality, their safety valve -in trouble or excitement.” After this, little can be -added without the danger, or rather the certainty, of -<i>bathos</i>. When genuine—for alas, it shares the common -fate of drinks, adulteration—it is said to be ardent -and slightly poisonous. In other words, it contains -“that excellent stomachic, hydrocyanic acid.” Of late -the Black Foresters have rivalled the Servians in a -spirit distilled from wild plums. Stolberg thinks -<i>Kirschenwasser</i> in no way inferior to the spirit made -from corn at Dantzic,<a id="FNanchor_95" href="#Footnote_95" class="fnanchor">[95]</a> and others hold it equal to the -Dalmatian <i>Maraschino</i>. The liqueur is also made in -Germany, France, and elsewhere.</p> - -<p><i>Pomeranzen</i>, or <i>Pomeranzen-Wasser</i>, somewhat -resembling our orangeade, is principally drunk in -Northern Germany.</p> - -<p><i>Raspail</i> was originally, as many other liqueurs, -medicinal, and was so called from the name of its -inventor. Mariani has made an <i>Elixir à la coca du -Pérou</i>. This, like <i>Raspail</i>, is an agreeable tonic.</p> - -<p><i>Vermuth</i><a id="FNanchor_96" href="#Footnote_96" class="fnanchor">[96]</a> is composed of white wine, angelica, -absinthe, and other aromatic herbs.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_179"></a>[179]</span></p> - -<p>Many sweet wines approach very nearly liqueurs. -Of these are in Austria some sweet wines of Transylvania -and Dalmatia. In Spain, the <i>Tinto d’Alicante</i>, -and the white <i>Muscats</i> of Malaga. In France, <i>Hermitage</i>, -<i>Grenache</i>, <i>Colmar</i>, and the <i>Muscats</i> of Rivesaltes -and of Roquevaire. In Cyprus, <i>La Commanderie</i>. -In Italy, the <i>Muscats</i> of Vesuvius, Orvieto and -Montefiascone, the holy wine of Castiglione, the white -wines of Albano, and the aromatic wine of Chiavenna. -In Greece, the <i>Malmseys</i> of Santorin and the Ionian -Isles. In Russia, the wines of <i>Koos</i> and <i>Sudach</i> in the -Crimea; and in Mexico, those of <i>Passo del Nocte</i>, -<i>Paras</i>, <i>San Luiz de la Paz</i>, and <i>Zelaya</i>.</p> - -<p>In the <i>Widdowes Treasure</i>, London, 1595, are -receipts for <i>Sirrop of Roses</i> or <i>Violets</i>, and two receipts -for <i>Rosa Solis</i>, and in the <i>Good Housewife’s Jewele</i>, -London, 1596, are receipts for distilling of <i>Rosemary -water</i>, <i>Imperiall water</i>, <i>Sinamon water</i>, and the -<i>Water of Life</i>.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_180"></a>[180]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header15.jpg" width="500" height="125" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="AMERICAN_DRINKS">AMERICAN DRINKS.</h2> - -<p>Cobblers—Cocktails—Flips, etc.—Punch—Varieties—A Bar Tender—Anstey’s -<i>Pleader’s Guide</i>—A Yard of Flannel—Bottled -Velvet—Rumfustian, etc.</p> - -</div> - -<p>The great authority, probably the greatest -authority, on this interesting subject is a -gentleman who, with the true modesty of genius, -allows himself to be known only by the pseudonym of -<i>Jerry Thomas</i>. Formerly a bar-tender at the Metropolitan -Hotel, New York, and the Planter’s House, -St. Louis, he is said to have travelled over Europe -and America in “search of all that is recondite in this -branch of the spirit art.” His very name, says one of -his admirers, is synonymous in the lexicon of mixed -drinks with all that is rare and original.</p> - -<p>Among the chief American drinks are, being alphabetically -arranged, <i>cobblers</i>, <i>cocktails</i>, <i>cups</i>, <i>flips</i>, <i>juleps</i>, -<i>mulls</i>, <i>nectars</i>, <i>neguses</i>, <i>noggs</i>, <i>punches</i>—of which there -are at least three score—<i>sangarees</i>, <i>shrubs</i>, <i>slings</i>, -<i>smashes</i>, and <i>toddies</i>.<a id="FNanchor_97" href="#Footnote_97" class="fnanchor">[97]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_181"></a>[181]</span></p> - -<p>The <i>cobbler</i> is an American invention, though now -common in other countries. It requires small skill in -its composition, but should be arranged to please the -eye. Of this drink the straw is the leading characteristic.</p> - -<p>The <i>cocktail</i> is a comparatively modern discovery. -In this drink <i>Bogart’s Bitters</i> occupies invariably a -prominent place. The <i>Crusta</i> is an improvement on -the <i>cocktail</i>, and is said to have been invented by -Santina, a celebrated Spanish caterer. Its <i>differentia</i> -is a small quantity of lemon juice and a little lump of -ice. The paring of a lemon must also line the glass, -from which feature it probably derives its name.</p> - -<p><i>Flip</i> has been immortalised by Dibdin as the favourite -beverage of sailors, though it has been asserted -that they seldom drink it; a somewhat hazardous -statement, unless limited to the times in which there -is none to be had. The essential feature in <i>a flip</i> is -repeated pouring between two vessels, supposed to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_182"></a>[182]</span> -produce smoothness in the drink. The Slang Dictionary -holds <i>flip</i> to be synonymous with <i>Flannel</i>, the -old term for gin and beer drunk hot with nutmeg, -sugar, etc., a play on the old name <i>lamb’s wool</i>. The -anecdote of Goldsmith drinking <i>flannel</i> in a night-house -with George Parker, Ned Shuter, and the -demure, grave-looking gentleman, is well known.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 375px;"> -<img src="images/illus33.jpg" width="375" height="400" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">MINT JULEP.</p> -</div> - -<p>The <i>julep</i> is especially popular in the Southern -States, and is said to have been introduced into -England by Captain Marryatt. That romance-writing -seaman in his work on <i>America</i>, says: “I must -descant a little upon the <i>mint julep</i>, as it is, with the -thermometer at 100°, one of the most delightful and -insinuating potations that ever was invented, and -may be drunk with equal satisfaction when the thermometer -is as low as 70°. There are many varieties,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_183"></a>[183]</span> -such as those composed of <i>Claret</i>, <i>Madeira</i>, etc., but -the ingredients of the real <i>mint julep</i> are as follows. -I learned how to make them, and succeeded pretty -well.” Then follows the receipt:—</p> - -<p>“Put into a tumbler about a dozen sprigs of the -tender shoots of mint, upon them put a spoonful of -white sugar, and equal proportions of peach and -common brandy so as to fill it up one-third, or perhaps -a little less. Then take rasped or pounded ice and fill -up the tumbler. Epicures rub the lips of the tumbler -with a piece of fresh pine apple, and the tumbler itself -is very often incrusted outside with stalactites of ice. -As the ice melts, you drink.”</p> - -<p>“I once,” says the marine author of this receipt, of -which the reader has <i>ipsissima verba</i>, “I once overheard -two ladies talking in the next room to me, and -one of them said, ‘Well, if I have a weakness for any -one thing, it is for a <i>mint julep</i>!’”</p> - -<p>This weakness of the American lady was, in the -opinion of the Metropolitan Hotel barman in New -York, very amiable, and proved, not only her good -taste, but her good sense.</p> - -<p>In <i>mulls</i>, which may be made of any kind of wine, -the essential feature is the boiling. Sugar and spice, -of which the nursery song tells us little girls are manufactured, -are also invariably used in <i>mulls</i>. We give a -rhymed receipt for mulled wine, not for the sake of -the poetry, which is indifferent, but for that of the -cookery, which is not bad.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“First, my dear madam, you must take</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Nine eggs, which carefully you’ll break,</div><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_184"></a>[184]</span> - <div class="verse indent0">Into a bowl you’ll drop the white,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The yolks into another by it.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Here the poet was evidently hard pressed for a -rhyme.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Let Betsy beat the whites with switch,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Till they appear quite frothed and rich;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Another hand the yolks must beat</div> - <div class="verse indent0">With sugar, which will make them sweet.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>An ordinary effect of sugar. Poet probably hard -pressed as before.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Three or four spoonfuls maybe’ll do,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Though some perhaps would take but two.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Into a skillet next you’ll pour</div> - <div class="verse indent0">A bottle of good wine, or more;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Put half a pint of water, too,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Or it may prove too strong for you.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>This is personal, nay more, it might to some good -people be offensive, as indicating deficiency of cerebral -power or endurance.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“And while the eggs by two are beating,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The wine and water may be heating;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">But when it comes to boiling heat,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The yolks and whites together beat</div> - <div class="verse indent0">With half a pint of water more,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Mixing them well, then gently pour</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Into the skillet with the wine,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And stir it briskly all the time.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Poet again hard pressed.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Then pour it off into a pitcher,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Grate nutmeg in to make it richer,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Then drink it hot, for he’s a fool</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Who lets such precious liquor cool.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_185"></a>[185]</span></p> -<p>Of <i>nectar</i> we have no information worth the reader’s -acceptance. It appears to be applied indifferently to -any dulcet drink.</p> - -<p><i>Negus</i> may be made of any sweet wine, but is commonly -composed of Port. “It is,” says Jerry Thomas, -“a most refreshing and elegant beverage, particularly -for those who do not take punch or grog after supper.”</p> - -<p><i>Egg-nogg</i>, of which other <i>noggs</i> seem to be the lineal -descendants, though a beverage of American origin, -has “a popularity that is cosmopolitan. In the South -of the United States it is almost indispensable at -Christmas time, and at the North it is a favourite at -all seasons.” In Scotland the beverage is called -“<i>auld man’s milk</i>.” The presence of the egg constitutes -the <i>differentia</i> in this drink. Every well-ordered -bar has a tin egg-nogg “<i>shaker</i>,” which is a -great aid in mixing. The historian will be glad to -learn that it was General Harrison’s favourite beverage, -and the consumptive and debilitated person that -it is full of nourishment.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus34.jpg" width="500" height="450" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">“A CROWN BOWL OF PUNCH.”</p> -</div> - -<p><i>Punch</i><a id="FNanchor_98" href="#Footnote_98" class="fnanchor">[98]</a> is remarkable for its variety. It is considered<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_186"></a>[186]</span> -necessary by the adept to rub the sugar on the -rind of the citron or lemon, to extract properly what -the experienced drinker calls “the ambrosial essence.” -The extraction of the ambrosial essence, and the -making the mixture sweet and strong, using tea -instead of water, and thoroughly amalgamating all the -compounds, so that the taste of neither the bitter, the -sweet, the spirit, nor the element shall be perceptible -one over the other, is the grand secret of making -<i>punch</i>. And to this, as to other learning, there is no -royal road. It must, alas! be laboriously acquired -by practice. Many are the mysteries of its concoction. -For instance, it is essential in making <i>hot punch</i><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_187"></a>[187]</span> -that you put in the spirits before the water; in <i>cold -punch</i> the other way. The precise portions of spirit -and water, or even of the acidity and sweetness, can -have no general rule. To attempt offering one would -only mislead. A certain inspiration must animate the -artist. It has been asserted that no two persons make -this drink alike. This remark is admirable, and -might probably be applied not only to punch, but -to every drink that has yet been composed.</p> - -<p>It has been said that of <i>punches</i> there are at least -threescore. Here follow a few of the many varieties: -<i>Brandy</i>, <i>Sherry</i>, <i>Gin</i>, <i>Whiskey</i>, <i>Port</i>, <i>Sauterne</i>, <i>Claret</i>, -<i>Missisippi</i>, <i>Vanilla</i>, <i>Pine Apple</i>, <i>Orgeat</i>, <i>Curaçoa</i>, -<i>Roman</i>, <i>Glasgow</i>, <i>Milk</i>, and <i>Regent’s</i>, brewed by -George IV.; <i>St. Charles’</i>, <i>Louisiana</i>, <i>Sugar House</i>, -<i>La Patria</i>, <i>Spread Eagle</i>, <i>Imperial</i>, <i>Rochester</i>, and -<i>Rocky Mountain</i>; <i>Non-Such</i>, <i>Philadelphia</i>, <i>Fish-House</i>, -<i>Canadian</i>, <i>Tip-Top</i>, <i>Bimbo</i>, <i>Nuremburgh</i>, -<i>Ruby</i>, <i>Royal</i>, <i>Century Club</i>, <i>Duke of Norfolk</i>, <i>Uncle -Toby</i>, and <i>Gothic</i>.</p> - -<p>People have immortalised themselves by the invention -of <i>punches</i> to which a grateful country has -attached their names. Of these famous ones are -General Ford, for many years commanding engineer -at Dover; Dr. Shelton Mackenzie, of Glasgow; -D’Orsay; and M. Grassot, the eminent French comedian -of the Palais Royal, who communicated his -receipt to Mr. Howard Paul, the equally eminent -entertainer, when performing in Paris.</p> - -<p>Last, though not least, the military have thus distinguished -themselves by the <i>National Guard</i>, the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_188"></a>[188]</span> -<i>7th Regiment</i> Punch, the <i>69th Regiment</i> Punch, the -<i>32nd Regiment</i> or <i>Victoria</i> Punch, and the <i>Light -Guard</i> Punch.</p> - -<p>The <i>sangaree</i>, originally a West Indian drink, is as -unsatisfactory in its explanation as in its etymology. -It seems, indeed, to be little more than spirit and -water, with sugar and nutmeg to taste. It very nearly -approaches, if it is not identical with, <i>toddy</i>.<a id="FNanchor_99" href="#Footnote_99" class="fnanchor">[99]</a></p> - -<p><i>Shrubs</i><a id="FNanchor_100" href="#Footnote_100" class="fnanchor">[100]</a> are unsatisfactory, like <i>sangarees</i>. They -seem to have no distinctive or differentiating feature. -The most common kinds are <i>Rum</i>, <i>Brandy</i>, <i>Cherry</i>, -and <i>Currant</i>.</p> - -<p><i>Slings</i> are very closely related to <i>toddies</i>. Their -difference is, indeed, infinitesimal, so far as we are able -to learn.<a id="FNanchor_101" href="#Footnote_101" class="fnanchor">[101]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_189"></a>[189]</span></p> - -<p>Of the <i>smash</i>, even Jerry Thomas speaks slightingly. -He says, “This beverage is simply a <i>julep</i> on -a small plan.” It, however, can boast of three species—<i>gin</i>, -<i>brandy</i>, and <i>whiskey</i>, and for all a small bar-glass -must be used. It is usual, though not apparently -essential, to lay two small pieces of orange on -the top, and to ornament with the berries of the season.</p> - -<p><i>Toddy</i> is the Hindustani <i>tári tádi</i>, or juice of the -palmyra and cocoa-nut. <i>Tar</i> is the Hindustani word -for a palm. It is the name given by Europeans to -the sweet liquors produced by puncturing the spathes -or stems of certain palms. In the West Indies <i>toddy</i> -is obtained from the trunk of the <i>Attalea cohune</i>, a -native of the Isthmus of Panama. In South-Eastern -Asia the palms from which it is collected are the -<i>gomuti</i>, <i>cocoa-nut</i>, <i>palmyra</i>, <i>date</i>, and the <i>kittul</i> -(<i>Caryota urens</i>). When newly drawn the liquor is -clear, and in taste resembles malt. In a very short -time it becomes turbid, whitish, and sub-acid, quickly -running into the various stages of fermentation, and -acquiring an intoxicating quality.</p> - -<p>In our use of the word, <i>toddy</i> seems to mean -nothing more than spirit and water sweetened, with -the occasional addition of lemon peel. <i>Whiskey toddy</i> -is the common and favourite species, though there are -also <i>apple</i>, <i>gin</i>, and <i>brandy toddies</i>. <i>Toddy</i> differs -from grog in being always made with boiling water, -but this distinction is not universally maintained, nor, -indeed, used by the best authors. <i>Whiskey</i> is probably -the “vulgar” kind alluded to by Anstey in his -<i>Pleader’s Guide</i>, Lect. 7.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_190"></a>[190]</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“First count’s for that with divers jugs,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To wit, twelve pots, twelve cups, twelve mugs,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Of certain vulgar drink called <i>toddy</i>,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Said Gull did sluice said Gudgeon’s body.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>The names of American drinks form an amusing -study. Passing over the well known sleepers, sifters, -flosters, knickerbockers, ching-chings, Alabama fog-cutters -and thunderbolt cocktails, the lightning -smashes and eye-openers of Connecticut, the corpse -revivers, the Mother Shiptons and the Maiden’s -Prayers, we propose to give a list of some of the most -remarkable titles, with receipts added, to satisfy the -appetite of any who care to compound them.</p> - -<h4><i>A Yard of Flannel.</i></h4> - -<p><i>A yard of flannel</i>, otherwise called <i>egg flip</i>.—Boil -a quart of ale in a tinned saucepan. Beat up yolks -of four with the whites of two eggs. Add four tablespoonfuls -of brown sugar and a <i>soupçon</i> of nutmeg. -Pour on this by degrees the hot ale, taking care to -prevent mixture from curdling. Pour back and forward -repeatedly, raising the hand as high as possible. -This produces the frothing and smoothness essential -to the goodness of the drink. It is called <i>a yard of -flannel</i> from its fleecy appearance.</p> - -<h4><i>White Tiger’s Milk</i></h4> - -<p class="center">(à la Thomas Dunn English, Esq.).</p> - -<p>Half a gill apple jack, ½ gill peach brandy, ½ teaspoonful -aromatic tincture,<a id="FNanchor_102" href="#Footnote_102" class="fnanchor">[102]</a> white of an egg well<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_191"></a>[191]</span> -beaten. Sweeten with white sugar to taste. Pour -the mixture into 1 quart of milk, stir well, and -sprinkle with nutmeg. This receipt will make a quart -of the compound.</p> - -<h4><i>Bottled Velvet</i></h4> - -<p class="center">(à la Sir John Bayley).</p> - -<p>A bottle of Moselle, ½ a pint of sherry, small quantity -of lemon peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Well -mix, add a sprig of verbena, strain, and ice.</p> - -<h4><i>Stone Fence.</i></h4> - -<p>One wine glass of whiskey (Bourbon), 2 small lumps -of ice. Use large bar-glass, and fill up with sweet -cider.</p> - -<h4><i>Sleeper.</i></h4> - -<p>To a gill of old rum add 1 ounce of sugar, 2 yolks -of eggs, and the juice of half a lemon. Boil ½ a pint -of water with 6 cloves, 6 coriander seeds, and a bit of -cinnamon. Whisk all together, and strain into a -tumbler.</p> - -<h4><i>Rumfustian.</i></h4> - -<p>Whisk yolks of a dozen eggs, and put into a quart -of beer and a pint of gin. Put a bottle of sherry into -a saucepan, with a stick of cinnamon, a grated nutmeg, -a dozen lumps of sugar, and the thin rind of a lemon. -When the wine boils, pour it on gin and beer, and -drink hot.</p> - -<h4><i>Bimbo Punch.</i></h4> - -<p>Steep in 1 quart cognac brandy 6 lemons, cut in -thin slices, for six hours. Then remove lemon without<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_192"></a>[192]</span> -squeezing. Dissolve 1 pound loaf sugar in 1 -quart boiling water, and add this hot solution to the -cognac. Let it cool.</p> - -<h4><i>Bishop.</i></h4> - -<p>Stick an orange full of cloves, and roast it. When -brown, cut it in quarters, and pour over it 1 quart of -hot port. Add sugar to taste, and let mixture simmer -for half an hour.</p> - -<h4><i>Archbishop.</i></h4> - -<p>The same as <i>Bishop</i>, with substitution of best claret -for port.</p> - -<h4><i>Cardinal.</i></h4> - -<p>The same as <i>Archbishop</i>, with substitution of champagne -for claret.</p> - -<h4><i>Pope.</i></h4> - -<p>The same as <i>Cardinal</i>, with substitution of Burgundy -for champagne.</p> - -<h4><i>Locomotive.</i></h4> - -<p>Put 2 yolks of eggs into a goblet with 1 oz. of -honey, a little essence of cloves, and a liqueur glass of -Curaçoa; add 1 pint of high Burgundy made hot, -whisk together, and serve hot in glasses.</p> - -<h4><i>Pousse l’Amour.</i></h4> - -<p>Fill a small wineglass half full of maraschino, then -put in yolk of 1 egg; in this pour vanilla cordial, and -dash the surface with cognac.</p> - -<h4><i>Blue Blazer</i></h4> - -<p class="center">(use two large silver-plated mugs with handles).</p> - -<p>One wine glass Scotch whiskey, 1 ditto boiling water. -Mix whiskey and water in one mug; ignite, and,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_193"></a>[193]</span> -while blazing, pour from one mug to the other. -Sweeten to taste, and serve in a bar tumbler, with a -piece of lemon peel. <i>Blue Blazer</i> is really nothing -more than ordinary whiskey and water.</p> - -<h4><i>Black Stripe.</i></h4> - -<p>Into a small bar-glass pour 1 wine glass of Santa -Cruz rum and 1 tablespoonful of molasses; cool with -shaved ice, or fill up with boiling water, according to -season. Grate nutmeg on top. This is ordinary rum -and water.</p> - -<p>The following appeared in <i>Moonshine</i>, and may -fitly conclude our chapter on American drinks, for -which the verdant English youth has paid to the -cunning dispenser so many nimble ninepences:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Thou art thirsty, Amaryllis; say to what dost thou incline?</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Wilt thou toy with amber bubbles at the <i>Fons Burtonis</i> brink?</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Shall I crown the crystal goblet with the flashing <i>Rhenish</i> wine?</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Or it may be thou would’st wish for an <i>American long drink</i>?</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Shall I brew a <i>Flash of Lightning</i> or a <i>Bourbon Whiskey-skin</i>?</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Or a <i>Saratoga Brace-up</i>? Sweetest, you have but to say.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Nay, perhaps a <i>Bottle Cocktail</i> would your kind approval win?</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Or a <i>Santa Cruz Rum Daisy</i> will be something in your way?</div> - <div class="verse indent0">I can recommend a <i>Morning-Glory Cocktail</i> to your taste</div> - <div class="verse indent2">And a <i>Corker</i> or a <i>Nerver</i> there are few who will despise;</div><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_194"></a>[194]</span> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>Tom and Jerry</i> offers pleasures it were folly rank to waste;</div> - <div class="verse indent2">In a <i>Nectar</i> for the dog-days sweet Elysian rapture lies.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Be not silent, Amaryllis, name your poison, whatsoe’er</div> - <div class="verse indent2">You’ve a mind for, be it <i>Thunder</i>, <i>Locomotive</i>, or <i>Egg Nogg</i>.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">I have all ingredients handy, and I reckon I’m all there</div> - <div class="verse indent2">When the question’s on the <i>tapis</i> as to what shall be the grog.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"> -<img src="images/illus35.jpg" width="425" height="500" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">AN AMERICAN BAR-TENDER.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_195"></a>[195]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header16.jpg" width="500" height="225" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="BEERS">BEERS.</h2> - -<p>Definition—Different Modes of Manufacture—Antiquity—Osiris, the -Inventor—Adam’s Ale—Egyptian—Scandinavian—Adulterations. -<span class="smcap">Africa</span>: Pitto, Ballo, Bouza. <span class="smcap">America</span>: Persimon, Chica, -Vinho de Batatas. <span class="smcap">Bavaria</span>: Schenk and Lager. <span class="smcap">Belgium</span>: -Lambic, Faro. <span class="smcap">Borneo</span>: Ava or Cava. <span class="smcap">China</span>: Samtchoo.</p> - -</div> - -<p>The dictionary definition, or rather description, -of Beer is “an alcoholic liquor made from any -farinaceous grain, but generally from barley.” This -barley clause is, of course, not true in all countries, -nor is beer always made from a farinaceous grain. -For the rest, the description is all that could be desired. -After the barley is malted and grained, its -fermentable substance is extracted by hot water. To -this extract or infusion hops, or some other plant of -an agreeable bitterness, are added, and it is afterwards -boiled for some time, both to concentrate it and to -obtain all the useful matters from the hops. The -liquor is subsequently allowed to ferment in vats. -The time allowed for fermentation depends upon the -quality and kind of beer. After it has become clear -it is stored for drink.</p> - -<p>This ordinary popular description of beer will be<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_196"></a>[196]</span> -probably sufficient to satisfy the general reader. But -we must add to it a second explanation of beer, which -is applied to a fermented extract, not from any -farinaceous grain, but from the roots and other parts -of various plants, as ginger, spruce-sap, beet, molasses, -and many more. The scientific inquirer may learn -the mysteries of malting and brewing, which are very -nearly distinct trades, in the many treatises on beer-making -which have adorned the literature of this -and other countries. In these he may read as much -as he wills of the <i>steeping</i> of the barley, its extension, -its absorption of water, and the time occupied in this -process; of the <i>couching</i> and <i>sweating</i>, as it is called, -a result of the partial germination of the grain; of -the <i>flooring</i>, or spreading out like hay over a field; -of the <i>kiln-drying</i>, or the introduction of the half-germinated -grain into a kiln with a perforated floor, -with the necessary and variable amount of heat -beneath it. And if all this is not enough, he may -continue to read at full length of <i>cornings</i> or <i>cummings</i>, -of <i>pale</i> and <i>amber-coloured malt</i>, of <i>grinding -the malt</i>, of <i>washing the malt thus ground</i>, of <i>boiling -the worts with hops</i>, of <i>cooling the worts</i>, of <i>fermenting -the worts</i>, and, finally, of <i>clearing and storing</i>.</p> - -<p>Beer is probably a word of German, as ale, signifying -the same thing, is of Scandinavian origin. But -the source of the German word is a moot question of -comparative philology. Those interested in this matter -may find abundant information in a note inserted -by M. A. Schleicher in the <i>Zeitschrift</i> of Kuhn. We -are led thereby to a Gothic form, <i>pius</i>, which in its<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_197"></a>[197]</span> -turn conducts us to the Lithuanian <i>pyvas</i>. <i>Pyvas</i> or -<i>pivas</i>—since etymology is a science <i>dans laquelle les -consonants font peu de chose, et les voyelles rien de tout</i>—may -be easily attached to the secondary root <i>piv</i> -found in the Sanskrit <i>pivâmi.</i> In Indo-European -tongues, and in accordance with the dictum of -Voltaire, p, b, v, are interchangeable as labials. -And so we come to the conclusion that <i>pivas</i>, or its -descendant <i>beer</i>, means nothing else but <i>drink</i>; or, in -other words, that this particular form of drink is <i>the</i> -drink <i>par excellence</i>. And so we might rest content, -were it not for the uneasy scruples of a certain -M. Pictet, who has introduced a Slavic origin. But -of etymology this taste will suffice.</p> - -<p>Twenty centuries before the Christian era, Osiris, -according to some authors, invented beer,<a id="FNanchor_103" href="#Footnote_103" class="fnanchor">[103]</a> and according -to others it has been at all times a drink of the -Hebrews. We have, indeed, heard of Adam’s ale, but -that term has been generally applied to a species of -drink which would hardly come under our present -category. It is perhaps more probable that the -beverage of Osiris and the early Hebrews was a -simple infusion of barley without more. Pliny, however, -Theophrastus, and Tacitus, speak of beer as -known from very early times to the people of the -North, who were prevented by their situation from the -cultivation of wine.<a id="FNanchor_104" href="#Footnote_104" class="fnanchor">[104]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_198"></a>[198]</span></p> - -<p>The ancient beer of Egypt is compared by -Diodorus Siculus to wine on account of its strength -and flavour. This Egyptian beer is indeed spoken of -by Herodotus as <i>barley wine</i>, a title which still survives -in some of the windows of our public-houses. -At present beer is the habitual drink of the English, -German, Dutch, and Scandinavian races. A drink, -better called <i>barley water</i> than <i>beer</i>, appears to have -been the favourite beverage of the Danes and Anglo-Saxons, -our ancestors in the remote past. Before -Christianity had enlightened and corrected their -views about the delights of a future state, these -benighted folk supposed that the chief felicity enjoyed -by the good—in those days synonymous with the brave—after -their death and transplantation into Odin’s -paradise, would be to drink in large goblets large -quantities of ale. Perpetual intoxication thus entered -largely into their conception of celestial joy.</p> - -<p>Beer as we understand it—modified, that is, by the -introduction of the hop—was probably little known in -England before the beginning of the sixteenth century. -The varieties of beer at the present time are<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_199"></a>[199]</span> -numerous. Some of them will be considered later on -in detail. There are, however, only three principal -types of fabrication,—the Belgian, Bavarian, and English. -The beers of England, as of France, and for the -most part of Germany, become sour by the contact of -air. This defect is absent from Bavarian beers.</p> - -<p>So favourite a drink has, of course, been largely -adulterated. Taste, colour, and smell are frequently -due to unscrupulous falsifications. Bitterness is produced -by strychnine, aloes, nux vomica, gentian, -quassia, centaury, pyrethrum, absinthe, and many -other ingredients. Colour is obtained by liquorice, -chicory, and caramel; and flavour by other additions, -which perhaps it is better not to particularize. -Water, of course, is added to beer, as to most drinks, -to enlarge the quantity and therefore the price. Potatoes -are frequently a substitute for grain. Potash is -introduced to give the much-desired “<i>head</i>,” chalk to -diminish acidity, and chloride of sodium, or common -salt, for the sake of what is called a <i>piquant</i> flavour. -It were well if these little eccentricities of the beer -vendors had here their confine; but the sacred hunger -for gold has added, alas! to these, virulent and narcotic -poisons,<a id="FNanchor_105" href="#Footnote_105" class="fnanchor">[105]</a> such as belladonna and opium, henbane -and picric or carbazotic acid. In the city of London -this kind of adulteration was formerly, it was fondly -imagined, to some extent prevented by some ancient<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_200"></a>[200]</span> -guardians, known as <i>ale-conners</i>, who had the right of -entering all public-houses and tasting their ales.</p> - -<p>Only the most important beers of different countries -are given in the following list, arranged alphabetically -for convenience of reference:—</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Africa.</span></h3> - -<p>Captain Clapperton <i>(Expedition to Africa</i>, i., 133, -187) found at Wow-wow, the metropolis of Borghoo, -a kind of ale bearing the name of <i>pitto</i>, obtained from -the same grain as that used for the same purpose in -Dahomey, and by a process nearly similar to the -brewing of beer in England from malt, only that no -hops were added, a defect which prevented it keeping -for any length of time. The people of the countries -from the Gambia to the Senegal use a kind of beer -called <i>ballo</i>. At a village called <i>Wezo</i> there is a beer -called <i>otèe</i>, a sort of ale made from millet, of a very -enlivening nature. Another sort of beer, called <i>gear</i>, -is found at Ragada. At <i>Whidah</i> an excellent beer is -made from two sorts of maize. The Jews at Taffilet -use beer of their own brewing. Isaacs (<i>Travels in -Africa</i>, ii., 319) says that the Zoola nation, between -Delagoa Bay and the Bay of Natal, has a description -of beer, with which the natives are wont to get drunk. -This beer is made from a seed called <i>loopoco</i>, something -in size and colour like rape. It has powerful -fermenting properties, and forms a beverage of a light -brown hue, potent and stimulating. In Sofala a beer -is made from rice and millet; also in Abyssinia is to -be found a drink of many names—<i>tallah</i>, or <i>selleh</i>, or<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_201"></a>[201]</span> -<i>donqua</i>, or <i>sona</i>—commonly brewed from wheat, millet -or barley, mixed with a bitter herb called <i>geso</i>. -According to Bruce, Abyssinian beer of an inferior -kind is made from <i>tocusso</i>. This is really a variety of -<i>bouza</i>, which is also made from <i>teff</i>, the <i>poa abyssinica</i> -of botanists.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">America.</span></h3> - -<p><i>Persimon</i> beer, from the fruit of the date plum -(<i>Diospyros Virginiana</i>), is drunk in North America. -In South America, long before the Spanish conquest, -the Indians prepared and drank a beer obtained from -Indian corn, called <i>chica</i> or maize beer. The process -followed in making <i>chica</i> is very similar to that of -beer brewing in Britain. The maize is moistened -with water, allowed partially to germinate and dried -in the sun. The maize malt so prepared is bruised, -treated with warm water, and allowed to ferment. -The liquor is yellow, and has an acid taste something -like cider. It is in common demand on the west -coast. In the valleys of the Sierra the maize malt -is subjected to human mastication, not invariably by -the young and beautiful girls, but by old ladies and -gentlemen who still retain, by the indulgence of nature, -the requisite dental arrangement. The saliva mixed -with the chewed morsel is supposed to produce a -more excellent <i>chica</i>. Indeed, the result is so choice -that this kind is commonly called Peruvian nectar. -<i>Chica</i> can also be made from barley, rice, peas, -grapes, pine-apples, and manioc. The Brazilians have<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_202"></a>[202]</span> -a beer called <i>Vinho de Batatas</i>, from the Batata<a id="FNanchor_106" href="#Footnote_106" class="fnanchor">[106]</a> root. -<i>Sora</i>, a Peruvian beer, was formerly forbidden by the -Incas because of its extremely intoxicating nature.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Austria.</span></h3> - -<p>The most famous beer is perhaps the Pilsener, or -white beer, from Pilsen in Bohemia, the favourite -drink in Vienna. Gratzer is brewed from wheat malt.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Bavaria.</span></h3> - -<p>The peculiar flavour of the Bavarian ale is perhaps -a result of the very free use of pitch or resinous -matters to protect the wood of the fermenting tun, -but it seems more probable that it is due to the commixture -of pine tops. <i>Schenk</i> beer is draught beer, -in contradistinction to <i>Lager</i>, or store beer. The one -is drunk in summer, the other in winter. <i>Bock beer</i><a id="FNanchor_107" href="#Footnote_107" class="fnanchor">[107]</a> -and <i>Salvator</i>, dark heavy kinds of stout, are both well -known. <i>Kaiserslautern</i> is the name of a famous -brewage in Rhenish Bavaria.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Belgium.</span></h3> - -<p>White beers, the result of a mixture of oats and -wheat, called <i>Walgbaert</i> and <i>Happe</i>, were made in -Brussels in the fifteenth century. <i>Roetbier</i> and <i>Zwartbier</i> -were, as their names tell us, red and black beers. -<i>Cuyte</i> was at one time a favourite and aristocratic<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_203"></a>[203]</span> -drink. It has since fallen from its high estate. There -are some forty kinds of beer, at least, now manufactured -in Brussels. The white beer of Louvain in South -Brabant is the most esteemed; but an Englishman -has described it as having the flavour of pitch, soapsuds -and vinegar. The winter brew is termed <i>Faro</i>, the -summer <i>Lambic</i>. The <i>Faro</i> is by some said to be -prepared from the strong <i>Lambic</i> and a small beer -called <i>Mars</i>. All Belgium beers, according to the -opinion of some experts, have a certain stamp of -vinosity. In addition to the <i>Lambic</i> and <i>Faro</i>, which -are distinguished in this particular, may be mentioned -the <i>Uitzet</i> of Flanders, the <i>Arge</i>, of Antwerp, and -<i>Fortes-Saisons</i> of the Walloons. The white sparkling -beers of Louvain are the best of summer beers, they -are succeeded by those of <i>Hougaerde</i> and <i>Diest</i>. The -brown beers of <i>Malines</i> and the <i>Saison</i> of <i>Liege</i> -possess good reports. Latterly the <i>Grisettes</i> of <i>Gembloux</i>, -the beer of <i>Dinant</i>, the <i>blonde</i> of <i>Buiche</i>, and -the ale of <i>Oppuers</i> have been creditably mentioned.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Borneo.</span></h3> - -<p>The aborigines<a id="FNanchor_108" href="#Footnote_108" class="fnanchor">[108]</a> of Borneo, if we are to believe -Commodore Roggewein,<a id="FNanchor_109" href="#Footnote_109" class="fnanchor">[109]</a> are the “basest, most cruel -and perfidious people in the world.” They are -“honest, industrious, strongly affectionate and self-denying,” -if we are to credit the account of the Italian -missionary, Antonio Ventimiglia. When such diversity -of opinion is manifested about the people,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_204"></a>[204]</span> -some discordance might naturally be supposed to -exhibit itself in the matter of their potations. But -this is not thus. The great drink of the Beajus is -allowed on all hands to be the <i>ava</i> or <i>cava</i>, prepared -from the <i>piper methysticum</i>, or intoxicating pepper -plant. This is a shrub with thick roots, long heart-shaped -leaves, and a clump or spike of berries. The -root is chewed only—it is satisfactory to learn—by -young girls with good teeth and dainty mouths.<a id="FNanchor_110" href="#Footnote_110" class="fnanchor">[110]</a> -Water or cocoa-nut milk is poured on the masticated -pulp, fermentation ensues, and the <i>Beajus</i> drink and -become drunken. The mass of chewed matter is -kneaded with considerable dexterity by practised professionals. -“Every tongue is mute,” says Mariner—one -of the crew of a vessel seized by the natives in -the commencement of this century,—“while this operation -is going on; every eye is upon them, watching -every motion of their arms as they describe the -various curvilinear turns essential to success.” <i>Ava</i> -is also drunk in Otaheite, in the Feejee islands, and -those of the Marquesas and of the South Seas.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">China.</span></h3> - -<p><i>Tar-asun</i>, extracted from barley or wheat, is the beer -of China. It is sweet, and commonly drunk warm, -before distillation. The mixed liquor from which it is -prepared is called <i>tchoo</i>, or wine; after that, <i>sam</i> or <i>san</i><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_205"></a>[205]</span> -is prefixed, to show its hot nature. <i>Samtchoo</i>—the -word is spelt in many ways—may, says Barrow -(<i>Travels</i>, p. 304), be considered the basis of the best -<i>arrack</i>, itself a mere rectification of the above spirit -with the addition of molasses and the juice of the -cocoa-nut tree. <i>Bell’s Travels</i>, ii., 9.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus36.jpg" width="500" height="400" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_206"></a>[206]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header17.jpg" width="500" height="175" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">England.</span></h3> - -<p>Love of the English for Beer—A National Drink—Private Brewing—A -French View of English Society—Sir John Barleycorn—The -“Black Jack” and “Leather Bottel”—“Toby Philpot”—Burton-on-Trent—Bottled -Beer—Brewers—The Village Ale-house—Various -Beers.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Back and syde goo bare, goo bare,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Both hande and foote goo colde;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">But, Bellie, God send the good ale inowghe</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Whether hyt be newe or old.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Brynge us home good ale, syr, brynge us home good ale,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And for our der lady’s love, brynge us som good ale.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Brynge us home no beff, syr, for that is full of bonys,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">But brynge us home goode ale y-nough, for that my love alone ys;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Brynge us home no wetyn brede, for yᵗ be ful of branne,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Nothyr of no ry brede, for yᵗ is of yᵉ same;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Brynge us home no porke, syr, for yᵗ is verie fatt,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Nothyr no barly brede, for neythir love I that;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Brynge us home no muton, for that is tough and lene,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Neyther no trypys, for thei be seldyn clene;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Brynge us home no veel, syr, that do I not desyr,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">But brynge us home good ale y-nough to drynke by yᵉ fyer;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Brynge us home no syder, nor no palde<a id="FNanchor_111" href="#Footnote_111" class="fnanchor">[111]</a> wyne,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">For, and yᵘ do, thow shalt have Criste’s curse and mine.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_207"></a>[207]</span></p> -<p>The foregoing verses epitomise the praise of good -beer. The first is from one of the earliest known -drinking songs in the English language—the last is -an old Wassail song—the Wassail bowl, which was -of hot spiced ale, with roasted apples bobbing therein,—a -kindly way of welcome on New Year’s Eve, of -Saxon derivation as its name “Wes-hal,” <i>be of -health</i>, or <i>your health</i>, testifies.</p> - -<p>That the Anglo-Saxon took kindly to his beer, we -have already seen; and that that feeling exists at the -present day is undoubted, for what says the refrain -of a comparatively modern drinking song?</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“I loves a drop of good beer—I does—</div> - <div class="verse indent0">I’se partickler fond of my beer—I is—</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And ⸺ their eyes,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">If ever they tries</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To rob a poor man of his beer.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Its popularity has never waned—and it has reached -to such a height that the brewing trade seems to be -instituted for the propagation of Peers of the realm—a -fact which Dr. Johnson even could not have foreseen, -although, at the sale of Thrale’s brewery, he did -say that they had not met together to sell boilers and -vats, but “the potentiality of growing rich beyond the -dream of avarice.”</p> - -<p>It was the national drink—for tea and coffee were -not introduced into England until the middle of the -seventeenth century—and it is only of very modern -times that the “free breakfast table” fad of statesmanship -has made those beverages so popular, by bringing -them within the means of the very poorest.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_208"></a>[208]</span> -Beer was, perforce, drank morning, noon and night -by those, and they were the vast majority, who could -not afford wine—and, as a rule, after the Norman -Conquest, when the Anglo-Saxons copied the soberer -customs of their conquerors, the English were not -drunkards as a nation; in fact, although almost all -their jests hinge on drinking, there is in most of them -an underlying moral, which in print are as telling as<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_209"></a>[209]</span> -in this illustration, which, in deference to nasty Mrs. -Grundy, has been slightly toned down. Here is very -cleverly satirised for reprobation the phases of men -under the influence of drink. How it transforms -them into beasts, some like lions, others like asses -and calves, sensual as hogs, greedy as goats, stupid -as gulls.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus37.jpg" width="500" height="575" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>Every man brewed his own beer up to the seventeenth -century, when we find Pepys speaking of Cobb’s -strong ales at Margate; and in the reign of Queen -Elizabeth the public brewing had begun at Burton, for -an inquiry was made by Walsingham to Sir Ralph -Sadler, the governor of Tutbury Castle, as to “What -place neere Tutbury, beere may be provided for her -Majesty’s use?” and the answer was that it might be -obtained at Burton, three miles off. Good Queen Bess -would, indeed, have fared badly without her beer, for -her breakfast beverages were always beer and wine.</p> - -<p>Yet every one was fairly sober. They were weaned -on alcoholic liquors, and, consequently, enjoyed them -as foods, as they undoubtedly are, if properly used. -It is very well to “see our sen as others see us,” but -it is almost impossible to agree with Estienne Perlin, -who published his <i>Description des Royaulmes d’Angleterre -et d’Escosse</i>, at Paris in 1558, in which he says -that the English “sont fort grands yvrongnes.” His -description is, we feel, as untrustworthy as his English. -“Car si un Anglois vous veult traicter, vous dira en -son langage, <i>vis dring a quarta rim vim gasquim, vim -hespaignol, vim malvoysi</i>, c’est a dire veulx tu venir -boire une quarte de vin du gascoigne, une autre<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_210"></a>[210]</span> -d’espaigne, & une autre de malvoisie, en beuvant -& en mengeant vous diront plus de cent fois <i>drind -iou</i>, c’est a dire je m’en vois boyre a toy, & vous -leur responderes en leur langage <i>iplaigiu</i>, qui est a -dire, je vous plege. Si vous les remarcies vous leurs -dires en leurs langages, <i>god tanque artelay</i>, c’est a -dire, je vous remercie de bon cœur. Eulx estans -yvres, vous jureront le sang et le mort que vous -beures tout ce que vous tenes dedans vostre tace, & -vous diront ainsi, <i>bigod sol drind iou agoud oin</i>.” It -is much to be feared that the worthy Frenchman, if -his description is to be at all relied on, mixed with -rather a fast lot.</p> - -<p>Ale was looked upon as a kindly creature, and -our ancestors of the seventeenth century had several -ballads in praise of the “little Barleycorn” and the -indictment, as well as the “Bloody Murther,” of Sir -John Barleycorn. From this latter the peasant poet, -Burns, plagiarised right royally. There was also a -very curious Chap book published in the early part -of the eighteenth century, entitled,</p> - -<p class="center">“The whole <span class="smcap">Trial</span> and <span class="smcap">Indictment</span> of -<i>Sir</i> JOHN BARLEY-CORN—<i>Kⁿᵗ</i>.</p> - -<p>A Person of Noble Birth and Extraction, and well -known by Rich and Poor throughout the Kingdom of -<i>Great Britain</i>: Being accused of several Misdemeanours, -by him committed against His Majesty’s -Liege People; by killing some, wounding others, and -bringing Thousands to Beggary, and ruins many a -poor Family.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_211"></a>[211]</span></p> - -<p>Here you have the Substance of the Evidence given -in against him on his Trial, with the Names of the -Judges, Jury, and Witnesses. Also the Comical Defence -Sir <i>John</i> makes for himself, and the Character -given him by some of his Neighbours, namely, <i>Hewson</i> -the Cobbler, an honest friend of Sir John’s, -who is entomb’d as a <i>Memorandum</i>, at the <i>Two -Brewers</i> in <i>East Smithfield</i>.</p> - -<p><i>Taken in Short Hand by</i> Thomas Tosspott, <i>Foreman -of the Jury</i>.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus38.jpg" width="500" height="500" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>One of the witnesses, hight Mistress <i>Full-Pot</i>, the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_212"></a>[212]</span> -hostess, called in his defence, thus winds up her -evidence,—</p> - -<p>“Nay, I beseech you, give me leave to speak to -you; if you put him to Death, all <i>England</i> is undone, -for there is not such another in the Land that can do -as he can do, and hath done; for he can make a -Cripple to go, he can make a Coward to fight with a -valiant Soldier, nay, he can make a good Soldier feel -neither Hunger or Cold. Besides, for Valour in himself, -there are few that can encounter with him, for -he can pull down the strongest Man in the World, -and lay him fast asleep.”</p> - -<p>Of course, the jury found a verdict of <i>Not Guilty</i>.</p> - -<p>Beer has a large literature of its own, principally -metrical, but this has pretty well been collected in -two books—<i>The Curiosities of Ale and Beer</i>, by -John Bickerdyke; and <i>In Praise of Ale</i>, by W. T. -Marchant—either of which would be a valuable -addition to any one’s library. Yet in neither of -them is met with Ned Ward’s “<i>Dialogue between -Claret and Darby Ale</i>,” published 1691, in which -each of the drinks speak for themselves; and, of -course, the arguments of ale are all potent over his -antagonist. Space will only allow of a very short -extract.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“<i>Darby.</i>—I’m glad to know you, High and Mighty <i>Sir</i>;</div> - <div class="verse indent10">Think you your pompous empty Name could stir</div> - <div class="verse indent10">My Choler? No, your Title makes me fear</div> - <div class="verse indent10">As much as if you’d been <i>Six Shilling Beer</i>.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>Claret.</i>—Thou <i>Son of Earth</i>, thou dull insipid thing,</div> - <div class="verse indent10">To level me, who am of Liquors <i>King</i>,</div><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_213"></a>[213]</span> - <div class="verse indent10">With lean <i>Small Beer</i>, but that thou art not worth</div> - <div class="verse indent10">My Anger, else I’de frown thee into Earth.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>Darby.</i>—I neither fear your Frown, nor court your Smile;</div> - <div class="verse indent10">But, if I’m not mistaken all this while,</div> - <div class="verse indent10">By other names than Claret you are known—</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>Claret.</i>—You do not hear me, Sir, the Fact disown,</div> - <div class="verse indent10">Some call me <i>Barcelona</i>, some <i>Navar</i>,</div> - <div class="verse indent10">Some <i>Syracuse</i>, but at the Vintner’s Bar</div> - <div class="verse indent10"><i>My</i> name’s <i>Red Port</i>. But call me what they will,</div> - <div class="verse indent10"><i>Claret</i> I am, and will be Claret still,” etc., etc.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus39.jpg" width="500" height="275" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>Not content with praising the liquor ale, our ancestors -fell to eulogising the vessels used for its consumption, -and the “Black Jack” and “Leather Bottel” -both came in for their meed of praise. Sketches -of a fine example of each are here given, taken from -the national collection in the British Museum.</p> - -<p>The Black Jack is a jug or pitcher, made of leather, -which was sometimes ornamented with a silver rim -and a silver plate with the owner’s name or coat of -arms engraved thereon. Here is a short lyric, “In -praise of the Black Jack.”<a id="FNanchor_112" href="#Footnote_112" class="fnanchor">[112]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_214"></a>[214]</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Be your liquor small, or as thick as mudd,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The cheating bottle cryes, good, good, good,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Whereat the master begins to storme,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Cause he said more than he could performe.</div> - <div class="verse indent6"><i>And I wish that his heires may never want Sack,</i></div> - <div class="verse indent6"><i>That first devis’d the bonny black Jack.</i></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">No Tankerd, Flaggon, Bottle nor Jugg</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Are half so good, or so well can hold Tugg,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">For when they are broke, or full of cracks,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Then they must fly to the brave black Jacks.</div> - <div class="verse indent22"><i>And I wish</i>, etc.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">When the Bottle and Jack stands together, O fie on’t,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The Bottle looks just like a dwarfe to a Gyant;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Then had we not reason Jacks to chuse</div> - <div class="verse indent0">For this’l make Boots, when the Bottle mends shoes.</div> - <div class="verse indent22"><i>And I wish</i>, etc.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">And as for the bottle you never can fill it</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Without a Tunnell, but you must spill it,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">’Tis as hard to get in, as it is to get out,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">’Tis not so with a Jack, for it runs like a Spout</div> - <div class="verse indent22"><i>And I wish</i>, etc.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">And when we have drank out all our store,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The Jack goes for Barme to brew us some more;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And when our Stomacks with hunger have bled,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Then it marches for more to make us some bread.</div> - <div class="verse indent22"><i>And I wish</i>, etc.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">I now will cease to speak of the Jack,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">But hope his assistance I never shall lack,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And I hope that now every honest man,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Instead of Jack will y’clip him John.</div> - <div class="verse indent22"><i>And I wish</i>, etc.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>But the composer of “A Song in praise of the -Leather Bottel” could rise to the magnitude of his<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_215"></a>[215]</span> -subject in a far superior manner than the preceding -poet, the refrain of his song being of a higher type.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“And I wish in Heaven his Soul may dwell,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">That first devised the Leather Bottel.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus40.jpg" width="500" height="225" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>The uses of the Bottel were so manifest, and its -material so superior to any other, that it occupied a -higher position. It was better than wood, for it -would not run, and was unbreakable. When a man -and his wife fell out, as will occasionally happen even -in the best matrimonial existence, the bottel could be -thrown at each other, without great injury either to -human, or the bottel. It held no temptation to steal, -as if it were of silver; nor could it be broken, as if it -were of glass—because, as the song justly says,—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Then what do you say to these Glasses fine?</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Yes, they shall have no Praise of mine;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">For when a Company there are sat,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">For to be merry, as we are met;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Then, if you chance to touch the Brim,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Down falls your Liquor, and all therein;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">If your Table Cloath be never so fine,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">There lies your Beer, your Ale or Wine;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">It may be for a small Abuse,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">A young Man may his Service lose;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">But had it been in a Leather Bottel,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And the Stopple in, then all had been well.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_216"></a>[216]</span></p> -<p>The rhymester recapitulates the gratitude of all -classes for this extremely handy and unbreakable convenience, -and winds up thus, somewhat sadly—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Then when the Bottel doth grow old,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And will good Liquor no longer hold,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Out of its side you may take a Clout,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Will mend your Shooes when they’r worn out;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Else take it, and hang it upon a Pin,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">It will serve to put many Trifles in,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">As Hinges, Awls, and Candle-ends,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">For young Beginners must have such things.</div> - <div class="verse indent24"><i>Then I wish</i>, etc.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>The next most popular English drinking vessel was -the <i>greybeard</i>, or as it was sometimes, but seldom, called -the <i>Bellarmine</i>, from the Cardinal of that name so -famous for his controversial works. These jugs were -imported largely from the Low Countries, where the -Cardinal’s name was a reproach. These greybeards -are of very common occurrence, being frequently -found in excavating on the sites of old houses.</p> - -<p>Two centuries after the greybeard, came the -brown Staffordshire <i>Toby Philpot</i>, an enormously -stout old gentleman, whose arms and hands encircle -his enormous paunch, and his three-cornered hat -forms a most convenient lip, whence the ale can be -poured. It owes its origin to a once very popular -drinking song, entitled “The Brown Jug,” which is an -imitation from the Latin of Hieronymus Amaltheus, -by Francis Fawkes, M.A., published in 1761, which -is the date of the accompanying illustration.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_217"></a>[217]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus41.jpg" width="500" height="500" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_218"></a>[218]</span></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Dear Tom, this brown jug, which now foams with mild ale,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Out of which I now drink to sweet Nan of the Vale,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Was once Toby Philpot, a thirsty old soul,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">As e’er cracked a bottle, or fathom’d a bowl;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">In bousing about, ’twas his pride to excel,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And amongst jolly topers he bore off the bell.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">It chanced as in dog-days he sat at his ease,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">In his flower-woven arbour, as gay as you please,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">With his friend and a pipe, puffing sorrow away,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And with honest Old Stingo sat soaking his clay,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">His breath-doors of life on a sudden were shut,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And he died full big as a Dorchester Butt.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">His body, when long in the ground it had lain,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And time into clay had dissolved it again,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">A potter found out, in its covert so snug,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And with part of Fat Toby he form’d this brown jug;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Now sacred to friendship, to mirth, and mild ale—</div> - <div class="verse indent0">So here’s to my lovely sweet Nan of the Vale.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_219"></a>[219]</span></p> - -<p>Burton-on-Trent may be termed the Metropolis of -English Beer, and there, veritably, “Beer is King.” -This pre-eminence is attributed to the quality of the -water, which seems peculiarly fitted for brewing purposes, -and the fact that the large brewers there located -use none but the finest malt and hops procurable. -There is an old saying, that wherever an Englishman -has trodden, and where has he not? there may be found -an empty beer bottle. And, truly, he does carry the -taste for his natural beverage wherever he goes, and -the export trade is enormous, every ship wanting -freight, filling up with bottled beer, as a safe thing. -Fuller, in his <i>Worthies of England</i> (ed. 1662, -p. 115), gives his account of the origin of bottled -beer. Speaking of Alexander Nowell, who was made -Dean of St. Paul’s as soon as Queen Elizabeth came<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_220"></a>[220]</span> -to the throne, he mentions his fondness for fishing, -and says, “Without offence it may be remembred, -that leaving a <i>Bottle</i> of <i>Ale</i> (when fishing) in the -<i>Grasse</i>; he found it some dayes after, no <i>Bottle</i>, but a -<i>Gun</i>, such the sound at the opening therof. And this -is believed (Casualty is <i>Mother</i> of more <i>Inventions</i> -than <i>Industry</i>) the original of <i>bottled-ale</i> in <i>England</i>.”</p> - -<p>The London brewer had to be content, before Sir -Hugh Myddleton brought the New River to the -Metropolis, with the water obtained from the Thames, -for Artesian wells were not, and other well water must, -from the crowded state of the City, have been highly -charged with organic matter. But their trade was -so important that they were incorporated into a Gild, -and the Brewers’ Company is now in existence, having -their Hall in Addle Street, Wood Street. The City -still maintains the importance of beer as a beverage by -keeping an Ale Conner, whose duty is to taste ales, -and see that the price charged is not excessive. Their -oath of office may be found in the <i>Liber Albus</i>, published -at the instance of the Government.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_221"></a>[221]<br /><a id="Page_222"></a>[222]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus42.jpg" width="700" height="375" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">VILLAGE INN.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_223"></a>[223]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus43.jpg" width="700" height="475" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">VILLAGE INN.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_224"></a>[224]</span></p> - -<p>The names of our great English brewers are too -well known among the English people to need recapitulation—and -space is too scarce to describe their -premises. The London draymen have always been -noted as a race of tall stalwart men, and brewers -generally have taken a pride in getting the largest and -strongest horses for their work. These two draymen -are of the time of George I., and the weight they -are carrying contrasts favourably with the satire of a -huge dray horse dragging a four and a half gallon<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_225"></a>[225]</span> -cask. On one notable occasion brewers’ draymen -have gone beyond their last. When General Haynau -visited Barclay’s Brewery, they rose in indignation -against him and chased him from the place, because it -was alleged that the General had caused a lady to be -flogged!</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus44.jpg" width="500" height="575" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>The Village Ale-house is, or was, the village club, -and certainly is a welcome place of rest for the wayfarer.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_226"></a>[226]</span> -They are always clean, and frequently quaint, -although now-a-days it would be hard to find, as -Rowlandson did, a turnspit dog on duty.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus45.jpg" width="500" height="600" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>The names of ales are legion; but some are worthy -of a passing notice on account of their strength, such -as some of the College Ales, those brewed at the -birth of an heir—to be drank at his coming of age,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_227"></a>[227]</span> -Ten Guinea Ale, etc., and there are any quantity of -pseudo beers—<i>i.e.</i> those not made from malt and hops, -China Ale, Radish Ale, ale made from beet or mangel -wurzel, and heather beer, which latter is of so great -antiquity that its method of manufacture is said to have -been lost with the extirpation of the Picts, although -some say it was brewed by the Danes. It is probable -that the flowers and tops of the heath were used as a -substitute for hops, as, previous to the introduction of -the latter plant, broom, wormwood and other bitter -herbs were used.</p> - -<p class="right">J. A.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus46.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>After Rowlandson.</i></p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_228"></a>[228]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="smcap">France</span>: Cerevisia; Double Bière; Adulteration. <span class="smcap">Germany</span>: -Mum; Beer Factories; Faust. <span class="smcap">India</span>: Pachwai, Piworree. -<span class="smcap">Japan</span>: Saki; Kæmpfer. <span class="smcap">Russia</span>: Kvas; Vodki; Pivo. -<span class="smcap">Sweden</span>: Spruce. <span class="smcap">Tartary</span>: Baksoum.</p> - -</div> - -<h3><span class="smcap">France.</span></h3> - -<p>In France beer was originally known as <i>cervoise</i> -from the Low Latin <i>cerevisia</i>. There are two sorts, -white and red; the latter has more hops. When much -grain enters into the composition it is called <i>double -bière</i>. Its qualities vary here as elsewhere, according -to the grain employed in its manufacture, the malt, -and the fermentation. It has been commonly adulterated -with <i>ledum palustre</i> or wild rosemary, a strong -narcotic. Allusions to beer are comparatively infrequent -in French works. The details of its manufacture, -which present no remarkable points of variation, may -be found in any French work on brewing.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_229"></a>[229]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus47.jpg" width="700" height="500" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>After A. L. Mayer.</i></p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_230"></a>[230]</span></p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Germany.</span></h3> - -<p>Of the many beers of this country, perhaps the most -deserving of notice here is the <i>Mum</i> of Brunswick, -well known and appreciated for its excellence. The -process observed in its manufacture has been, it is -said, always kept a mystery,<a id="FNanchor_113" href="#Footnote_113" class="fnanchor">[113]</a> and to prevent discovery, -the men who brewed it were hired for life. -The origin of the word <i>Mum</i> is obscure. The -German <i>Mumme</i>, a strong ale producing silence<a id="FNanchor_114" href="#Footnote_114" class="fnanchor">[114]</a> from -intoxication; the Danish word for a mask, because it<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_231"></a>[231]</span> -exhibits the parties drinking it with a new face; and -<i>Christian Mummer</i> of Brunswick, the supposed inventor -of the drink, have been by turns suggested. -The varied kinds of <i>Schenk</i>, or winter beer, and <i>Lager</i>, -or summer beer, are fairly well known. The Leipzig -Goose and the Berlin white beer are refreshing drinks -in summer. An excellent description of <i>Bierbrauerei</i> -apparatus is given in Brockhaus’ <i>Conversations Lexikon</i>, -Band iii. The most important beer factories are in -Munich,<a id="FNanchor_115" href="#Footnote_115" class="fnanchor">[115]</a> Erlangen, Zirndorf, Nürnberg, and Vienna.</p> - -<p>German beer is far less potent than that of -England, but want of strength is made up by the -quantity taken. From the time of Goethe, and long -before, Germans were great consumers of beer, and -the scene in his “Faust,” of students in Auerbach’s -Cellar, was typical of his time. Now-a-days there is -no degeneracy in the German beer drinker, and a -Viennese “Saufender Renommist” will drink his -thirty half-pints of <i>Märzen</i> at a sitting. German -beers are now readily attainable at any German -restaurant in London.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">India.</span></h3> - -<p>The Hill-tribes of India commonly consume -<i>Pachwai</i>, prepared from rice and other grain in Bengal. -In Nepaul a beer named <i>Phaur</i>, made from rice or -wheat, is brewed much in the same manner as English -ale, which it is said strongly to resemble. It is in considerable -repute and, according to Hamilton,<a id="FNanchor_116" href="#Footnote_116" class="fnanchor">[116]</a> wheat<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_232"></a>[232]</span> -and barley are in Nepaul reared for the express purpose -of making the beer and other drinks similar to it. -In the West Indies the negroes make a fermented -drink resembling beer from <i>cassava</i>, which in Barbadoes -is termed <i>piworree</i>,<a id="FNanchor_117" href="#Footnote_117" class="fnanchor">[117]</a> and in other places <i>ouycou</i>.</p> - -<p>This plant, the <i>manioc</i> or <i>mandioc</i> of America, grows -to the size of a small tree, and produces roots like our -parsnips.<a id="FNanchor_118" href="#Footnote_118" class="fnanchor">[118]</a> <i>Ouycou</i> is sometimes brewed very strong. -It is considered nourishing and refreshing, as indeed -most drinks which gratify the palate seem to be considered. -Molasses and yams are used in its preparation. -The liquor is red. <i>Piworree</i> or <i>paiwari</i> is also -made by the Indians in Honduras, as in Brazil, from -cassava. Cassava bread carbonised superficially is -placed in hot water until fermentation arises. To -promote this, feminine chewing is found efficacious. -The taste, says Simmonds, is said to resemble that of -ale, but is not “quite so agreeable—this may easily -be believed.” <i>Cela dépend</i>, as in the case of the <i>chica</i> -of the sierras of South America.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Japan.</span></h3> - -<p>Kæmpfer, in his <i>History of Japan</i>, i., 121, tells us -that in the manufacture of <i>Sacke</i> or <i>Saki</i>,<a id="FNanchor_119" href="#Footnote_119" class="fnanchor">[119]</a> a strong and -wholesome beer produced from rice, the Japanese are -not excelled by any other people. This beer, a very -ancient drink, is white when fresh, but becomes brown,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_233"></a>[233]</span> -if it remains long in the cask. It is manufactured to -the highest degree of excellence in Osacca, and thence -exported to other countries. The beer’s name is said -to be derived from that of this city, being the genitive -case of the word, with the initial letter omitted. It is -wholesome and pleasant, but should be drunk moderately -warm.<a id="FNanchor_120" href="#Footnote_120" class="fnanchor">[120]</a> There are many varieties of <i>saki</i>, distinguished -by different names.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Russia.</span></h3> - -<p><i>Quass</i>, or <i>Kvas</i>, a word signifying <i>sour</i>, an ancient -Scythian beverage, is the ordinary household beer of -Russia. A variety of it called <i>Kisslyschtschy</i> is -variably described as exceedingly pleasant, and as an -abominable small beer, something like sweet wort or -treacle beer, almost as vile as the <i>Vodki</i> or Russian -gin. These matters of course depend on individual -taste. The Russian <i>pivo</i>, also in common use, is said -to resemble German beer, but German beers are many -and diverse.</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Sweden.</span></h3> - -<p>Swedish beer is made at Stockholm. <i>Spruce</i> beer -is much in use. This drink is said to have originated -from a decoction of the tops of the spruce fir. In -Norway and Denmark as well as in Sweden this -liquor is made from boiling the leaves, rind and -branches of pines. But the <i>Spruce</i> beer of Great -Britain and Ireland—either white or brown, according -as sugar or molasses is employed in the making—is<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_234"></a>[234]</span> -an essence or fluid extract procured by boiling the -shoots, tops, bark and cones of the Scotch fir (<i>pinus -sylvestris</i>). <i>Spruce beer</i> is supposed to be of much -medicinal value as an antiscorbutic. Samuel Morewood -presents us with a gratifying reflection on this -matter. While, he says, <i>Spruce</i> is beneficial to the -health of man, it has not, by its “consequence depreciated -his character, or lowered him in his moral -dignity.”</p> - -<h3><span class="smcap">Tartary.</span></h3> - -<p>The beer to be met with in Tartary is for the most -part of an indifferent quality. That brewed from -barley and millet by the Turkestans, termed <i>baksoum</i>, -more resembles water boiled with rice than beer. -They, however, admire it, and affirm that it is an invaluable -remedy for dysentery. The reader will have -already perceived that it is a cosmopolitan practice to -pamper the appetite under the pretence of preserving -the health. <i>Baksoum</i> is acid in taste, of no scent, a -feeble intoxicant, and cannot be kept for any length of -time.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> -<img src="images/illus48.jpg" width="250" height="300" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_235"></a>[235]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_236"></a>[236]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Non-Alcoholic_Drinks"><i>Non-Alcoholic Drinks.</i></h2> - -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_237"></a>[237]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header18.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="TEA_I">TEA.<br /> -I.</h3> - -<p>Popularity of Tea as a Drink—Consumption in England, and comparative -Use all over the World—Legend of its Origin—Date of -its Use—Growth of the Plant—Different Kinds of Tea—Great -Falling off in the Exports from China—Ceylon Tea—High -Prices of—Statistics—Analysis of Tea.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Of all non-alcoholic beverages, Tea claims the -pre-eminence, being drank by nearly, if not -quite, half the population of the world, and common -alike to all climes and all nations.</p> - -<p>In China it is the national beverage, and it is used -not only as an ordinary drink, but it is the chief factor -in visits of ceremony, and in hospitality. Japan, too, -is a large consumer, and its houses of entertainment -are “Tea” houses. In the wilds of Thibet its use is -universal, and so it is on the steppes of Tartary, -where, however, it is made as nauseous and repulsive -a drink as possible. In Russia, it is the traveller’s<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_238"></a>[238]</span> -comfort, and every post house is bound by law to -have its <i>samovar</i> hot and boiling, ready for the wayfarer. -In Australia, New Zealand, and Tasmania, the -“billy” of tea is familiar, and forms the only drink -of the shepherd, the stockman, and the digger. All -the British colonies and possessions are devotees to -the “cup which cheers, but not inebriates.” Great -Britain herself is a great tea drinker, whether it be -the “five o’clock tea,” which has developed into a cult, -with vestments peculiar thereto; the poor seamstress, -stitching for hard life, who takes it to keep herself -awake for her task; or the labourer, who takes his tin -bottle with him to the field. In fact, go where you -will, in every civilized portion of the world (except -Greece, where the consumption is merely nominal), -and you will find drinkers of tea.</p> - -<p>Great Britain is the centre of the tea trade of the -world, and in 1889 she imported a total quantity of -222,147,661 lbs., the declared value of which was -£9,987,967. Of this she took for her own consumption, -and paid duty thereon, 185,628,491 lbs, which, at -6<i>d.</i> per lb. duty, produced a revenue of £4,640,704. -Wisely or not, Mr. Goschen, in the Budget for 1890, -reduced the duty to 4<i>d.</i> per lb.</p> - -<p>In spite of this enormous quantity of tea drank in -Great Britain, she does not rank as the largest consumer -per head, which, leaving out China, Japan, -Thibet, and Tartary, where statistics are unknown, is -as follows:—<a id="FNanchor_121" href="#Footnote_121" class="fnanchor">[121]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_239"></a>[239]</span></p> - -<ul> -<li>Australian Colonies,</li> -<li>New Zealand,</li> -<li>Tasmania,</li> -<li>Great Britain,</li> -<li>Newfoundland,</li> -<li>Canada,</li> -<li>Bermuda,</li> -<li>United States,</li> -<li>Holland,</li> -<li>Cape Colony,</li> -<li>Natal,</li> -<li>Russia,</li> -<li>Denmark,</li> -<li>Uruguay,</li> -<li>Argentine Republic,</li> -<li>B. Honduras,</li> -<li>Barbadoes,</li> -<li>Trinidad,</li> -<li>Antigua,</li> -<li>British Guiana,</li> -<li>Persia,</li> -<li>Portugal,</li> -<li>Bahamas,</li> -<li>Switzerland,</li> -<li>Norway,</li> -<li>Germany,</li> -<li>Grenada,</li> -<li>Morocco,</li> -<li>St. Vincent,</li> -<li>Jamaica,</li> -<li>Belgium,</li> -<li>Sweden,</li> -<li>France,</li> -<li>Roumania,</li> -<li>Austria-Hungary,</li> -<li>Bulgaria,</li> -<li>Spain,</li> -<li>Turkey (no returns),</li> -<li>Italy (ditto),</li> -<li>Greece (nominal),</li> -<li>Mauritius, 1888, 106,589 lbs.</li> -<li>Sierra Leone, 1888, 6,008 lbs.</li> -</ul> - -<p>The tea shrub grows wild in Assam, and in other -parts between the limits of N. Latitude 15° to 40°, and -this zone is most favourable to its growth in its cultivated -form, although of late years Ceylon, which is -nearer the equator, has made enormous strides in the -production of tea. Up to the present time, however, -China has furnished the largest quantity, and for centuries -has enjoyed the monopoly of its production; a -monopoly now broken down, and every day vanishing, -mainly owing to the roguery of its manufacturers and -the folly of its growers.</p> - -<p>Of course such a plant could have had no common -origin, and no reader need be surprised at its story. -The legend runs that Prince Darma, or Djarma, the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_240"></a>[240]</span> -third son of King Kosjusvo, went, very many centuries -ago, from India to China, where he abode, and -became celebrated for his piety. Like the <i>fakirs</i> of -India, he showed his religious tendencies in a morbid -manner—living only under heaven’s canopy, fasting -for weeks together, and eliminating sleep altogether -from his daily wants. Tradition says that this state -of things continued for years, until, one day, weary -nature asserted her pre-eminence, and Darma slept. -Imagine his holy horror on his awakening! Something -of the same kind must have possessed Cranmer -when he stretched forth his right hand in the flames -of his funereal pyre, with the heart-wrung exclamation, -“This hand hath offended.” So with Darma; filled -with pious horror, his first thought was, how to expiate -his offence, and his peccant eyelids were, consequently, -cut off and thrown upon the ground. Next day, returning -to the spot where he had involuntarily sinned, -he saw two shrubs, of a kind never before beheld in -China. He tasted them, found them aromatic, and, -moreover, possessing the quality of imparting wakefulness -to their consumer. The discovery and miracle -became noised abroad, and hence the popularity of -tea in China.</p> - -<p>But, apart from this legend, the Chinese themselves -have no certain record of the introduction of tea into -their country. They believe that it was in use in the -third century, and in the latter end of the fourth century, -Wangmung, a minister of the Tsin dynasty, -made it fashionable and much increased its consumption. -In all probability it was chewed at that time,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_241"></a>[241]</span> -for a decoction of it does not appear to have been -drank until the time of the Suy dynasty, when the -Emperor Wass-te, suffering from headache, was cured -by drinking an infusion of tea leaves, by the advice -of a Buddhist priest. In the early seventh century -this manner of using the shrub was general, and it -has maintained its popularity unto the present time, -making itself friends wherever it is introduced.</p> - -<p>The tea-plant somewhat resembles the Camellia -Japonica, and Linnæus, imagining that the black and -green teas came from different shrubs, named them -<i>Thea bohea</i> and <i>Thea viridis</i>. Fortune has definitely -settled that both green and black tea are made off the -same plants, and it is now taken that there is but one -tea-plant, the <i>Thea Sinensis</i>, of which, however, there -are several varieties, induced by climate, soil, etc.</p> - -<p>Tea-plants are grown from seeds, and are made -bushy by pinching off the leading shoots. They are -planted in rows, each plant being three or four feet -distant from the other, and the leaves are stripped in -the fourth or fifth year of its growth, and are plucked -until the tenth or twelfth, when the plant is grubbed -up. May and June are the general months of picking, -which is done mostly by women; but the time varies -according to the district.</p> - -<p>The young and early leaves give the finest and -most delicate teas, but the flavour very much depends -upon the drying and roasting; but still some soils and -climates have a great deal to do with the taste, the -finest tea in China growing between the 27th and 31st -parallels of latitude.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_242"></a>[242]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/illus49.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">THEA SINENSIS.</p> -</div> - -<p>The Trade names of teas imported from China to -England are: <i>Black</i>—Congou, Souchong, Ning Yong -and Oolong, Flowery and Orange Pekoe. The latter, -and Caper, being artificially scented, are, therefore, -carefully eschewed by <i>cognoscenti</i>. <i>Green</i>—Twankay, -Hyson Skin, Hyson, Young Hyson, Imperial, and -Gunpowder. Black tea has the rougher taste, and -produces the darkest infusion. Green tea, however, -has the greater effect upon the nerves, and if taken -strong, acts as a narcotic, producing, with some people, -tremblings and headaches, and on small animals even -causing paralysis. It is, therefore, generally mixed -with black in small proportion, say ¼ lb. to 1 lb. black<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_243"></a>[243]</span> -tea. There is also what is called <i>brick tea</i>, which is -consumed in the North of China, Tartary, and Thibet, -but which we never see in England. This choice tea -is made from the stalks and refuse and decayed twigs, -mixed with the serum of sheep and ox blood, which, -when it is pressed into moulds, hardens it.</p> - -<p>The Russians are said to get the finest tea that -comes out of China—called Caravan Tea—which is -made into large bales, covered with lead. This goes -to Russia entirely overland, and to this fact some attribute -its superior and delicate flavour.</p> - -<p>The tea trade of China is rapidly going from her, -and she has but herself, and the shortsighted knavery -of her growers and manufacturers, to thank for it. -According to a Tea Circular,<a id="FNanchor_122" href="#Footnote_122" class="fnanchor">[122]</a> the following are the -imports and deliveries of China tea from 1st to 30th -June:—</p> - -<table summary="The imports and deliveries of China tea from 1st to 30th June"> - <tr> - <th>1888.</th> - <th>1889.</th> - <th>1890.</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>6,697,000 lbs.</td> - <td>508,000 lbs.</td> - <td>452,000 lbs.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class="noindent">a truly fearful falling off. English people got tired -of the flavourless stuff sent from China, and India -and Ceylon having perfected the manufacture (which -at first start of the industry of tea growing in those -parts was not good), send us delicious tea, of a much -higher market value than that of China.</p> - -<p>Ceylon tea, especially, has enormously won the -favour of the English tea-drinking community in a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_244"></a>[244]</span> -very few years, as the following short statistics, taken -from a Tea Circular,<a id="FNanchor_123" href="#Footnote_123" class="fnanchor">[123]</a> will show,—</p> - -<table summary="Duty income from Ceylon tea by 1888"> - <tr> - <td>The total value of all the Ceylon tea in bond in</td> - <td>1880 was</td> - <td class="tdr">£5,024.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="ditto">Ditto</span> <span class="ditto">ditto</span> - <span class="ditto">ditto</span></td> - <td>1888 <span class="ditto">”</span></td> - <td class="tdr total">£1,555,095.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">The duty on above, at 6<i>d.</i> per lb., was respectively</td> - <td class="tdr">£2,871.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2"></td> - <td class="tdr total">£464,664.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class="noindent">showing that not only had the quantity imported -enormously increased, but so had the quality, as shown -by the enhanced market value. One instance, although -an exceptional one, will show what Ceylon can -produce in the way of tea. On 13th January, 1890, -was sold at the London Commercial Tea Sale Rooms, -a consignment of tea from the Gallebodde Estate, -Ceylon, which experts described as the finest tea ever -grown. This unique tea was of the brightest gold -colour, resembling grains of gold. Its sale excited the -keenest competition, and it was eventually knocked -down for £4 7<i>s.</i> per lb., but it was resold a few days -afterwards to a wholesale firm at the enormous price -of £5 10<i>s.</i> per lb.</p> - -<p>“Much excitement prevailed yesterday in the London -Commercial Tea Sale Rooms, Mincing Lane, on the -offering of a small lot of Ceylon tea, from the Gartmore -Estate. This tea is composed almost entirely -of small ‘golden tips,’ which are the extreme ends -of the small succulent shoots of the plant. Competition -was of a very keen description, the tea being ultimately -knocked down to the Mazawattee Ceylon Tea Company<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_245"></a>[245]</span> -at the unprecedented price of £10 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> per -pound.”—<i>Standard</i>, March 11th, 1891.<a id="FNanchor_124" href="#Footnote_124" class="fnanchor">[124]</a></p> - -<p>Another circular of the same firm of tea brokers -gives a list of 132 tea gardens in Ceylon.</p> - -<p>Indian tea is fast helping to supersede China tea, -and another Tea Circular<a id="FNanchor_125" href="#Footnote_125" class="fnanchor">[125]</a> points out that, “Towards -the 190 million lbs. probably required for home use -during the coming year, India and Ceylon together -will contribute fully 150 millions.” It also gives the -following:—</p> - -<p class="center">“<span class="smcap">London Statistics for Year ending 31st May.</span>”</p> - -<table summary="London Statistics for Year ending 31st May."> - <tr> - <th></th> - <th></th> - <th>1888.</th> - <th>1889.</th> - <th>1890.</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Import,</td> - <td>Indian</td> - <td class="tdr">86,371,000</td> - <td class="tdr">94,954,000</td> - <td class="tdr">101,052,000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>Ceylon</td> - <td class="tdr">14,705,000</td> - <td class="tdr">26,390,000</td> - <td class="tdr">34,246,000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>China</td> - <td class="tdr">117,185,000</td> - <td class="tdr">98,695,000</td> - <td class="tdr">90,097,000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>Java</td> - <td class="tdr total">2,989,000</td> - <td class="tdr total">4,170,000</td> - <td class="tdr total">3,107,000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>Total</td> - <td class="tdr">221,250,000</td> - <td class="tdr">224,209,000</td> - <td class="tdr">228,502,000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Delivery,</td> - <td>Indian</td> - <td class="tdr">85,619,000</td> - <td class="tdr">91,368,000</td> - <td class="tdr">101,168,000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>Ceylon</td> - <td class="tdr">12,578,000</td> - <td class="tdr">23,830,000</td> - <td class="tdr">31,947,000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>China</td> - <td class="tdr">116,870,000</td> - <td class="tdr">105,668,000</td> - <td class="tdr">87,652,900</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>Java</td> - <td class="tdr total">3,133,100</td> - <td class="tdr total">3,862,000</td> - <td class="tdr total">3,280,000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td></td> - <td class="tdr">218,200,000</td> - <td class="tdr">224,728,000</td> - <td class="tdr">224,047,000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="5"><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_246"></a>[246]</span>Of which—</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Home Consumpt.</td> - <td class="tdr">183,000,000</td> - <td class="tdr">185,250,000</td> - <td class="tdr">187,940,000</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td colspan="2">Export</td> - <td class="tdr">35,200,000</td> - <td class="tdr">39,500,000</td> - <td class="tdr">36,107,000</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>There are three active substances in tea, which we -should do well to notice: Volatile Oil, Theine, and -Tannin.</p> - -<p>The volatile oil can be distilled by ordinary process, -and it contains the aroma and flavour of tea in perfection. -Its action on the human body is not thoroughly -known, with the exception that it is injurious in a -greater or less degree. The Chinese are well aware -of the fact, and will rarely use tea until it is a year old, -thus allowing some of it to evaporate, and it is probably -owing to this oil that tea-tasters (who taste as -much by smell as by palate) are subject to attacks of -headache and giddiness.</p> - -<p>Theine is the principle which gives to tea its power -of lessening the waste of the tissues in the human -body, and, when separated from the decoction, it forms -an alkaloid having no smell, a slightly bitter taste, and -is composed of colourless crystals. It is also an active -agent in Maté or Paraguay tea, in coffee (when it is -called caffeine, although identical in substance), in -Guarana, which is used as coffee in Brazil, and in the -Kola Nut of Africa.</p> - -<p>The third product, tannin, gives roughness of -flavour to the tea, and is particularly developed by -allowing the infusion to stand a long time. It is -harmless; at least, its combination in tea has never -been found to be hurtful; Its presence is at once -shown by dropping some tea on the clean blade of a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_247"></a>[247]</span> -knife, when it will produce a black stain—the tannin -derived from oxgalls, and a solution of iron, forming -the ink with which we write.</p> - -<p>That Chinese tea has been, and is, largely adulterated, -is an indisputable fact, and in those bygone days, when -all our supply came from China, it had to be borne. -Now, at all events, the Indian and Ceylon teas are -pure, and can be taken without the slightest fear. The -green teas used to be most adulterated, but the black -teas could also tell their tale of fraud.</p> - -<p class="right">J. A.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/footer7.jpg" width="300" height="275" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_248"></a>[248]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header19.jpg" width="500" height="425" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="TEA_II">TEA.<br /> -II.</h3> - -<p>Introduction of Tea into Europe—Early Authorities thereon—“Tay”—Its -Introduction into England—Excise Duty thereon—Thomas -Garway’s Advertisement.</p> - -</div> - -<p>When tea was first introduced into Europe is -still an unsettled question, and the earliest -mention that the writers can find (that is, to verify) -is in a volume of Travels by Father Giovanni Pietro -Maffei,<a id="FNanchor_126" href="#Footnote_126" class="fnanchor">[126]</a> published 1588 (book vi., p. 109). Speaking -of his travels in China, he says: “Quanquam è vitibus -more nostro non exprimunt merum, uvas quodam -condimenti genere in hyemem adservare, mos est; -cœterum ex herba quadam expressus liquor admodum<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_249"></a>[249]</span> -salutaris, nomine Chia, calidus hauritur, ut apud -Japonios: Cujus maxime beneficio, pituitam, gravedinem, -lippitudinem nesciunt; vitam bene longam, sine -ullo ferme languore traducunt, oleis alicubi carent.” -“Although they do not extract wine from the vines -as we do, but have a custom of preserving the grapes -as a kind of condiment for the winter, they yet press -out of a certain herb, a liquor which is very healthy, -which is called Chia, and they drink it hot, as do the -Japanese. And the use of this causes them not to -know the meaning of phlegm, heaviness of the head, -or running of the eyes, but they live a long and happy -life, without pain, or infirmity of any sort.”</p> - -<p>Another early mention of it is in a book by Giovanni -Botero,<a id="FNanchor_127" href="#Footnote_127" class="fnanchor">[127]</a> which was translated into English by Robert -Peterson, “of Lincolne’s Inne, Gent.” He says -(p. 75), “They haue also an herbe, out of which they -presse a delicate iuyce, which serues them for drincke -instead of wyne. It also preserues their health, and -frees them from all those euills, that the immoderat vse -of wyne doth breed vnto us.”</p> - -<p>Early in the seventeenth century tea was becoming -known in Europe, mainly through the instrumentality of -the Dutch East India Company, and we learn much -about it in the writings of Father Alexandre de Rhodes, -who, after thirty-five years’ travel, gave the benefit of -his experiences to the public. He left Rome in October, -1618, and thus writes about “De l’Vsage du Tay, qui<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_250"></a>[250]</span> -est fort ordinaire en la Chine.”<a id="FNanchor_128" href="#Footnote_128" class="fnanchor">[128]</a> He says, “One of -the things which, in my opinion, contributes most to -the great health of this people, who often attain to -extreme old age, is <i>Tay</i>, the use of which is very common -throughout the East, and which is beginning to -be known in France, by means of the Dutch, who -bring it from China, and sell it at Paris at 30 francs -the pound, which they have bought in that country for -8 or 10 sols, and yet I perceive that it is very old, and -spoilt. Thus it is that we brave Frenchmen suffer -strangers to enrich themselves in the East India trade, -whence they might draw the fairest treasures of the -world, if they had but the courage to undertake it as -well as their neighbours, who have less means of being -successful than they have.</p> - -<p>“<i>Tay</i> is a leaf as large as that of our pomegranate, -and it grows on shrubs similar to the myrtle: it does -not exist elsewhere throughout the world, but in two -provinces of China, where it grows. The chief is that -of Nanquin, whence comes the best <i>Tay</i>, which they -call <i>Chà</i>; the other is the province of Chin Chean. -The gathering of this leaf in both these provinces is -made with as much care as we exercise in our vintage, -and its abundance is so great, that they have enough -to supply the rest of China, Japan, Tonquin, Cochin -China, and several other kingdoms, where the use of -tea is so common, that those who drink it but three -times a day are most moderate, many taking it ten or<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_251"></a>[251]</span> -twelve times, or, in other words, at all hours of the -day.</p> - -<p>“When the leaf is gathered, it is well dried in an -oven, after which it is put in tin boxes, which are tightly -closed, because if the air gets to it, it is spoiled, and -has no strength, the same as wine that is exposed to -the air. I leave you to judge if Messieurs the Hollanders -take care of that when they sell it in France. -To know whether the <i>Tay</i> is good, you must see that it -is very green, bitter, and so dry as to be easily broken -with the fingers. If it passes these tests, it is good; -otherwise, be assured it is not worth much.</p> - -<p>“This is how the Chinese treat the <i>Tay</i> when they -take it. Some water is boiled in a very clean pot, and -when it boils it is taken off the fire, and this leaf is put -therein, according to the quantity of water: that is to -say, the weight of a crown of <i>Tay</i> to a large glass of -water. They cover the pot well, and, when the leaves -sink to the bottom of the water, then is the time to -drink it, for then it is that the <i>Tay</i> has communicated -its virtue to the water, and made it of a reddish colour. -They drink it as hot as they can, for it is good for -nothing if it gets cold. The same leaves which remain -at the bottom of the pot will serve a second time, but -then they boil them with the water.</p> - -<p>“The Japanese take <i>Tay</i> differently, for they make -it into powder, which they throw into boiling water, -and swallow the whole. I know not whether this -method of making it is more wholesome than the -former; I always use it thus, and find that it is common -among the Chinese. Both mix a little sugar with<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_252"></a>[252]</span> -the <i>Tay</i> to correct the bitterness, which, however, does -not seem disagreeable to me.</p> - -<p>“There are three chief virtues in <i>Tay</i>. The first is -to cure and prevent headache; for my part, when I -had a headache, by taking <i>Tay</i>, I felt so comforted, -that it seemed to draw all my pain away, for the principal -force in <i>Tay</i> is to expel those gross vapours that -mount to the head, and inconvenience us. If it is -taken after supper, it generally hinders sleep; yet -there are some in whom it causes sleep, because by -only expelling the grossest vapours, it leaves those -which induce sleep. For myself, I have experienced -it often enough, when I have been obliged to sit up -all night hearing the confessions of my native Christians, -which frequently happened; I had only to take -<i>Tay</i> at the hour when I should have been going to -sleep, and I could go all night without wishing for -sleep, and next morning I was as fresh as if I had had -my usual slumber. I could do this once a week -without being incommoded. Once I tried to continue -this wakefulness for six consecutive nights, but on the -sixth I was quite knocked up.</p> - -<p>“<i>Tay</i> is not only good for the head; it has a marvellous -effect in comforting the stomach, and aiding -the digestion, so that it is ordinarily drank after dinner, -but not generally after supper, if sleep is required. -The third thing that <i>Tay</i> does is to purge the reins -of gout and gravel, and it is, perhaps, the true reason -why these maladies are unknown in these countries, -as I have said before.”</p> - -<p>One thing is very certain. Tea would not have<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_253"></a>[253]</span> -been in use any length of time in France before it -would be drank, as a novelty, in England, and by the -year 1660 it had become in such general use that it -was made a vehicle for taxation, as we see by the -12 Chas. II., c. 23: “For every gallon of Chocolate, -Sherbet, and Tea, made and sold, to be paid by the -Makers thereof, Eightpence,” and men were appointed -to visit the coffee-houses twice daily to see the quantity -brewed.</p> - -<p>But this was so inconvenient, that in 1688, after -giving this scheme a good trial, the Act was repealed -by 1 Will. & Mary, c. 40, and the duties on coffee, -chocolate, and tea (for this latter 1<i>s.</i> per lb.) were -charged and collected at the Custom House, because -“It hath been found by experience, that the collecting -of the duty arising to your Majesties by virtue of -several Acts of Parliament, by way of excise, upon -the liquors of Coffee, Chocolate and Tea, is not only -very troublesome and unequal upon the retailers of -those liquors, but requireth such attendance of officers, -as makes the neat receipt very inconsiderable.”</p> - -<p>In the British Museum is a broadside folio advertisement, -supposed to be about <span class="allsmcap">A.D.</span> 1600, of a tobacconist, -one Thomas Garway, who kept a coffee-house in -Exchange Alley, known up till late years, when it has -disappeared in the universal rage for improvements, -as Garraway’s Coffee House. It is as follows:—</p> - -<p>“An Exact Description of the Growth, Quality, and -Vertues of the Leaf TEA, by <i>Thomas Garway</i> in -<i>Exchange Alley</i>, near the <i>Royal Exchange</i> in <i>London</i>, -and Seller and Retailer of TEA and COFFEE.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_254"></a>[254]</span></p> - -<p>“<span class="smcap">Tea</span> is generally brought from <i>China</i>, and groweth -there upon little Shrubs or Bushes, the Branches -whereof are well garnished with white Flowers that -are yellow within, of the bigness and fashion of sweet -Brier, but smell unlike, bearing thin green leaves -about the bigness of <i>Scordium</i>, <i>Mirtle</i>, or <i>Sumack</i>, -and is judged to be a kind of <i>Sumack</i>: This Plant -hath been reported to grow wild only, but doth not, -for they plant it in their Gardens about four foot -distance, and it groweth about four foot high, and of the -Seeds they maintain and increase their Stock. Of all -places in <i>China</i> this Plant groweth in greatest plenty -in the Province of <i>Xemsi</i>, Latitude 36 degrees, bordering -upon the West of the Province of <i>Honam</i>, and -in the Province of <i>Namking</i>, near the City of <i>Lucheu</i>; -there is likewise of the growth of <i>Sinam</i>, <i>Cochin China</i>, -the Island <i>de Ladrones</i> and <i>Japan</i>, and is called <i>Cha</i>. -Of this famous Leaf there are divers sorts (though all -of one shape) some much better than the other, the -upper Leaves excelling the other in fineness, a property -almost in all Plants, which Leaves they gather -every day, and drying them in the shade, or in Iron -pans over a gentle fire till the humidity be exhausted, -then put up close in Leaden pots, preserve them for -their Drink <i>Tea</i>, which is used at Meals, and upon all -Visits and Entertainments in private Families, and in -the Palaces of Grandees. And it is averred by a -Padre of <i>Macao</i>, native of <i>Japan</i>, that the best <i>Tea</i> -ought not to be gathered but by Virgins who are -destined to this work, and such <i>Quæ non dum Menstrua -patiuntur; gemmæ quæ nascuntur in summitatæ<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_255"></a>[255]</span> -arbuscula, servantur Imperitorie̅, ac præcipuis ejus -Dynastis: quæ autem infra nascuntur, ad latera, populo -conceduntur</i>. The said Leaf is of such known vertues, -that those very Nations so famous for Antiquity, -Knowledge, and Wisdom, do frequently sell it -amongst themselves for twice its weight in Silver, -and the high estimation of the Drink made therewith, -hath occasioned an inquiry into the nature thereof -among the most intelligent persons of all Nations that -have travelled in those parts, who, after exact Tryal -and Experience by all Wayes imaginable, have commended -it to the use of their several Countries, for -its Vertues and Operations, particularly as followeth, -<i>viz.</i>:—</p> - -<p>“<i>The Quality is moderately hot, proper for Winter -or Summer.</i></p> - -<p>“<i>The Drink is declared to be most wholesome, preserving -in perfect health untill extreme Old Age.</i></p> - -<p class="center">“<i>The particular Vertues are these</i>:—</p> - -<p>“It maketh the Body clean and lusty.</p> - -<p>“It helpeth the Head-ach, giddiness and heaviness -thereof.</p> - -<p>“It removeth the Obstructions of the Spleen.</p> - -<p>“It is very good against the Stone and Gravel, -cleansing the Kidneys and Vriters, being drank with -Virgin’s Honey instead of Sugar.</p> - -<p>“It taketh away the difficulty of breathing, opening -Obstructions.</p> - -<p>“It is good against Lipitude distillations, and -cleareth the Sight.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_256"></a>[256]</span></p> - -<p>“It removeth Lassitude, and cleanseth and purifieth -adult Humors and a hot Liver.</p> - -<p>“It is good against Crudities, strengthening the -weakness of the Ventricle or Stomack, causing good -Appetite and Digestion, and particularly for Men of -a Corpulent Body, and such as are great eaters of -Flesh.</p> - -<p>“It vanquisheth heavy Dreams, easeth the Brain, -and strengtheneth the Memory.</p> - -<p>“It overcometh superfluous Sleep, and prevents -Sleepiness in general, a draught of the Infusion being -taken, so that, without trouble, whole nights may be -spent in Study without hurt to the Body, in that it -moderately heateth and bindeth the mouth of the -Stomach.</p> - -<p>“It prevents and cures Agues, Surfets and Feavers, -by infusing a fit quantity of the Leaf, thereby provoking -a most gentle Vomit and breathing of the Pores, -and hath been given with wonderful success.</p> - -<p>“It (being prepared and drank with Milk and -Water) strengtheneth the inward parts, and prevents -Consumptions, and powerfully asswageth the pains of -the Bowels, or griping of the Guts, or Looseness.</p> - -<p>“It is good for Colds, Dropsies, and Scurveys, if -properly infused, purging the Blood by Sweat and -Urine, and expelleth Infection.</p> - -<p>“It drives away all pains in the Collick proceeding -from Wind, and purgeth safely the Gall.</p> - -<p>“And that the Vertues and Excellencies of this -Leaf, and Drink, are many and great, it is evident and -manifest by the high esteem and use of it (especially<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_257"></a>[257]</span> -of late years) among the Physitians and Knowing men -in <i>France</i>, <i>Italy</i>, <i>Holland</i>, and other parts of Christendom; -and in <i>England</i> it hath been sold in the Leaf for -six pounds, and some times for ten pounds the pound -weight, and, in respect of its former scarceness and -dearness, it hath been only used as a <i>Regalia</i> in high -Treatments and Entertainments, and Presents made -thereof to Princes and Grandees till the year 1657. -The said <i>Thomas Garway</i> did purchase a quantity -thereof, and first publickly sold the said <i>Tea</i> in Leaf -and Drink, made according to the directions of the -most knowing Merchants and Travellers into those -Eastern Countries; And upon knowledge and experience -of the said <i>Garway’s</i> continued care and industry -in obtaining the best <i>Tea</i>, and making Drink thereof, -very many Noblemen, Physitians, Merchants and -Gentlemen of Quality have ever since sent to him -for the said Leaf, and daily resort to his House in -<i>Exchange Alley</i> aforesaid, to drink the Drink thereof.</p> - -<p>“And that Ignorance nor Envy have no ground or -power to report or suggest that what is here asserted -of the Vertues and Excellences of this pretious Leaf -and Drink hath more of design than truth, for the -justification of himself and satisfaction of others, he -hath here innumerated several Authors, who, in their -Learned Works, have expressly written and asserted -the same, and much more, in honour of this noble -Leaf and Drink, <i>viz.</i>, <i>Bontius</i>, <i>Riccius</i>, <i>Jarricus</i>, <i>Almeyda</i>, -<i>Horstius</i>, <i>Alvarez Semeda</i>, <i>Martinious</i> in his -<i>China Atlas</i>, and <i>Alexander de Rhodes</i> in his Voyage -and Missions, in a large discourse of the ordering of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_258"></a>[258]</span> -this Leaf, and the many Vertues of the Drink, printed -at <i>Paris</i> 1653 part 10. Chap. 13.</p> - -<p>“And to the end that all Persons of Eminency and -Quality, Gentlemen and others who have occasion for -<i>Tea</i> in Leaf, may be supplyed, These are to give -notice that the said <i>Thomas Garway</i> hath <i>Tea</i> to sell -from sixteen to fifty Shillings the pound.</p> - -<p>“And whereas several Persons using <i>Coffee</i>, have -been accustomed to buy the powder thereof by the -pound, or in lesser, or greater quantities, which, if kept -two dayes looseth much of its first Goodness. And, -forasmuch as the Berries after drying may be kept, if -need require for some Moneths; Therefore all persons -living remote from <i>London</i>, and have occasion for the -said powder, are advised to buy the said <i>Coffee</i> Berries -ready dryed, which being in a Morter beaten, or in a -Mill ground to powder, as they use it, will so often be -brisk, fresh, and fragrant, and in its full vigour and -strength as if new prepared, to the great satisfaction -of the Drinkers thereof, as hath been experienced by -many in this City. Which Commodity of the best -sort, the said <i>Thomas Garway</i> hath alwayes ready -dryed to be sold at reasonable Rates.</p> - -<p>“Also such as will have <i>Coffee</i> in powder, or the -Berries undryed, or <i>Chocolata</i>, may by the said <i>Thomas -Garway</i> be supplied to their content: With such further -Instructions and perfect Directions how to use -<i>Tea</i>, <i>Coffee</i> and <i>Chocolata</i>, as is, or may be needful, -and so as to be efficatious and operative, according to -their several Vertues.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_259"></a>[259]</span></p> - -<p class="center">“<span class="smcap">Finis.</span></p> - -<p>“<span class="smcap">Advertisement.</span> That <i>Nicholas Brook</i>, living at -the Sign of the <i>Frying-pan</i> in St. <i>Tulies</i> Street against -the Church, is the only known man for the making of -Mills for grinding of <i>Coffee</i> powder; which Mills are -by him sold from 40 to 45 shillings the Mill.”</p> - -<p class="right">J. A.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 325px;"> -<img src="images/footer8.jpg" width="325" height="400" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_260"></a>[260]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header20.jpg" width="500" height="175" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="TEA_III">TEA.<br /> -III.</h3> - -<p>Pepys and Tea—First English Poem on Tea—Price of Tea temp. -Queen Anne—Scandal over the Tea Cup—Jonas Hanway -and Dr. Johnson on Tea—Love of the latter for this Beverage—How -to make Good Tea.</p> - -</div> - -<p>By Garway’s Advertisement we get at one fact, -that the use of tea had not been brought into -popular use before 1657: a fact which is borne out by -that old <i>quid nunc</i> Pepys, who would surely have -noticed it, as, indeed, he did as soon as it was brought -under his ken. He mentions it in his diary under -date 25th Sept., 1661, as being then a novelty, at all -events to him. “I did send for a Cup of Tee, a China -Drink of which I never drank before.” And again, -28th June, 1667, “Home, and there find my wife -making of Tee, a drink which Mr. Pelling the Potticary -tells her is good for her cold and defluxions.” So -that even then it was not a common drink with people -well to do, as we know Pepys was. The old English -custom of drinking beer at breakfast died very hard—nay, -it is not yet dead—surviving in farm houses in -many places in the country, notably in Somersetshire; -and when tea became cheap enough to be drank by -the middle classes, those beneath them in the social<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_261"></a>[261]</span> -scale indulged in sage tea, and infusions of other -home grown herbs.</p> - -<p>As it increased in popularity, the poets got hold of -it, and numerous were the laudatory verses in Latin -respecting its virtues. But, as far as can be found, -the earliest English poem about it was by Waller, as -under:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse center">“OF TEA.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse center"><span class="smcap">Commended by Her Majesty.</span><a id="FNanchor_129" href="#Footnote_129" class="fnanchor">[129]</a></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Venus her Myrtle, Phœbus has his bays;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Tea both excels, which she vouchsafes to praise.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The best of queens,<a id="FNanchor_130" href="#Footnote_130" class="fnanchor">[130]</a> and best of herbs, we owe</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To that bold nation<a href="#Footnote_130" class="fnanchor">[130]</a> which the way did shew</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To the fair region where the Sun does rise,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Whose rich productions we so justly prize.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The Muses’ friend, Tea does our fancy aid,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Repress those vapours which the head invade,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And keeps that palace of the soul serene,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Fit on her birthday to salute the Queen.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>As years went on, its popularity became greater, -and it is satisfactory to find by the following extract -from Lord Clarendon’s diary, 10th Feb., 1688, that -the tea imported was good, and that it was treated -properly. “Le Père Couplet supped with me; he is -a man of very good conversation. After supper we -had tea, which he said was as good as any he had -drank in China. The Chinese, who came over with -him and Mr. Fraser, supped likewise with us.”</p> - -<p>With time, the consumption of tea increased, and -its price was much lower; but still, taking the money<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_262"></a>[262]</span> -value in the time of Queen Anne, in relation to our -own it was excessively dear, and its value fluctuated -much. Black tea varied in 1704 from 12<i>s.</i> to 16<i>s.</i> per -pound; in 1706, 14<i>s.</i> to 16<i>s.</i>; in 1707, which seems -to have been an exceptionally dear year, 16<i>s.</i>, 20<i>s.</i>, -22<i>s.</i>, 24<i>s.</i>, 30<i>s.</i>, and 32<i>s.</i> In 1709 it was from 14<i>s.</i> to -28<i>s.</i>; and in 1710, 12<i>s.</i> to 28<i>s.</i> Green tea in 1705 -was 13<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>; in 1707, 20<i>s.</i>, 22<i>s.</i>, 26<i>s.</i>; in 1709, 10<i>s.</i> to -15<i>s.</i>; and in 1710, 10<i>s.</i> to 16<i>s.</i> The difference between -new and old is given once; the new tea is 14<i>s.</i>, and -the old 12<i>s.</i> and 10<i>s.</i></p> - -<p>The margins in price are not only accounted for by -difference in age, but it was well known that old leaves -were re-dried and used in the cheaper sorts; indeed, -there is a very curious advertisement in the advertising -portion of the <i>Tatler</i>, Aug. 26th, 1710: “Bohea -Tea, made of the same Materials that Foreign Bohea -is made of, 16<i>s.</i> a Pound. Sold by R. Fary only, at -the Bell in Grace Church Street, Druggist. Note. -The Natural Pecko Tea will remain, after Infusion, of -a light grey colour. All other Bohea Tea, tho’ there -be White in it will Change Colour, and is artificial.”</p> - -<p>Tea was now “in Society,” and was made the -medium of pleasant little <i>réunions</i>. The accompanying -illustration gives a Tea-party, temp. Queen Anne, -by which it appears that the cups had no handles at -that time, and were of veritable oriental porcelain, and -that it was not considered a breach of good manners -to drink tea out of saucers.</p> - -<p>But even this Eden had its serpent, in the shape -of scandal, from which the tea table seemed no freer<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_263"></a>[263]</span> -in the time of Good Queen Anne than our own.<a id="FNanchor_131" href="#Footnote_131" class="fnanchor">[131]</a> -“Thus they take a sip of Tea, then for a draught or -two of Scandal to digest it, next let it be Ratifia, or -any other Favourite Liquor, Scandal must be the -after draught to make it sit easie on their Stomach, -till the half hour’s past, and they have disburthen’d -themselves of their Secrets, and take Coach for some -other place, to collect new matter for Defamation.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus50.jpg" width="500" height="425" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>An anonymous poet of that time sings thus of the -tea table:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Here we see Scandal, (for our sex too base),</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Seat in dread Empire in the Female Race,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">’Mong Beaus and Women, Fans and Mechlin Lace,</div><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_264"></a>[264]</span> - <div class="verse indent0">Chief seat of Slander, Ever there we see</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Thick Scandal circulate with right Bohea.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">There, source of black’ning Falsehood’s Mint of Lies,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Each Dame th’ Improvement of her Talent tries,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And at each Sip a Lady’s Honour dies;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Truth rare as Silence, or a Negro Swan,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Appears among those Daughters of the Fan.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Peter Motteux, in the same reign (1712), wrote “A -Poem in Praise of Tea;” but his theme may, after all, -only have been taken to advertise his East India Warehouse -in Leadenhall Street. He says:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“From boist’rous Wine I fled to gentle Tea;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">For, Calms compose us after Storms at Sea.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">In vain wou’d Coffee boast an equal Good;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The Chrystal Stream transcends the flowing Mud.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Tea, ev’n the Ills from Coffee sprung, repairs,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Disclaims its Vices, and its Vertue shares.</div> - <div class="verse indent2">To bless me with the Juice two Foes conspire,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The clearest Water with the purest Fire,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Wine’s Essence in a Lamp to Fewel turns,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Exhales its Soul, and for a Rival burns.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The Leaf is mov’d, and the diffusive Good,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Thus urg’d, resigns its Spirits in the Flood.</div> - <div class="verse indent2">In curious Cups the liquid Blessing flows,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Cups fit alone the <i>Nectar</i> to enclose.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Dissembled Groves and Nymphs by Tables plac’d,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Adorn the Sides, and tempt the Sight and Taste,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Yet more the gay, the lovely Colour courts,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The Flavour charms us, but the Taste transports,” etc., etc.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>As years went on, the poets still sung its praises; -and the following portion of “Tea Drinking” brings -us down to 1752, by which time it was a necessity in -polite society:—</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_265"></a>[265]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus51.jpg" width="500" height="550" alt="" /> -</div> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Sparkling with Youth’s gay Pride, like mirthful <i>May</i></div> - <div class="verse indent2">In the Sedan enclos’d, by Slaves up-born;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">See the Love-darting Dame, swing ’long the Way,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Or to present the Visit, or return.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">The sleek-comb’d Valet trimly trips before;</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Loud, thro’ the gazing Croud, commanding Place;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">With well-tim’d Raps he strikes the sounding Door,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Thunders in Taste, and rattles with a Grace.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">Along the Pavement grates the swift-slop’d Chair,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Back on its well-oil’d Hinges flies the Gate;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Behind the high held Hoop, up-springs the Fair,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Rustling in rich Array, and silken State.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">The how d’ye ended, the Contest of Place,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">And all the fashionable flutt’ring Toils,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Down, curtsying, sink the Laughter loving Race,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">And undisturb’d one Moment, Silence smiles.</div><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_266"></a>[266]</span> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">Behold! the Beau-complexion’d Porcelain,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">As Bell turn’d Tulips variegated show,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">In order set among the tittering Train,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Replete with Spoils which from <i>Cathaya</i> flow.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">The leading Fair the Word harmonious gives,</div> - <div class="verse indent2"><i>Betty</i> around attends with bending Knee;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Each white-arm Fair, the painted Cup receives</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Pours the rich Cream, or stirs the sweetened Tea,” etc., etc.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>But, although some wrote in praise of it, there was -a class of people who were opposed to its use, and -one of them was the celebrated Jonas Hanway, of -umbrella fame. Possessed of a competence, he had -nothing particular to do, so he turned philanthrope. -He took up the cause of the Marine Society, he was -a Governor of the Foundling Hospital, and he founded -a Magdalen Hospital, which is now at Streatham. -These things, however, did not fully occupy his time, -and he scribbled <i>de omnibus rebis</i>: among other things, -about Tea, against which he had a great aversion. In -1757 he wrote “<span class="smcap">An Essay on Tea</span>, considered as -pernicious to <i>Health</i>, obstructing <i>Industry</i>, and impoverishing -the <i>Nation</i>; also an Account of its -<i>Growth</i>, and great <i>Consumption</i> in these <i>Kingdoms</i>.”</p> - -<p>Judged from our present standpoint, it was a farrago -of rubbish and false arguments, and he recommends -“Herbs of our own growth in lieu of Tea.” He gives -a list of plants which he thinks useful for the purpose:—Ground -Ivy, plain, or with a few drops of -lemon Balm, or lemon Balm alone, or mixed with -Sage, and Lavender flowers; Lavender itself; the -fresh tops of Thyme; Mint; the flowery tops of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_267"></a>[267]</span> -Rosemary, by themselves, or mixed with Lavender; -Penny royal and Lavender; Horehound; Trefoil -flowers; Sorrel; Angelica; Sage; Cowslips; and -recommends a drink, which he occasionally used -himself, made of Ground Ivy and stick Liquorice.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus52.jpg" width="500" height="425" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">A Tea Garden: <i>George Morland</i>.</p> -</div> - -<p>This roused the ire of no less a person than Dr. -Samuel Johnson, who, as “a hardened and shameless -tea drinker; who has for many years diluted his meals -with only the infusion of this fascinating plant; whose -kettle has scarcely time to cool; who with tea amuses -the evening, with tea solaces the midnights, and with tea -welcomes the morning,”<a id="FNanchor_132" href="#Footnote_132" class="fnanchor">[132]</a> could not sit still, and have -his favourite beverage abused. So he wrote a review<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_268"></a>[268]</span> -of Hanway’s Essay, and demolished it. Johnson certainly -was an immoderate and enthusiastic tea drinker, -and somewhat a tyrant over it, as Mrs. Piozzi rather -ruefully relates. “By this pathetic manner, which no -one ever possessed in so eminent a degree, he used to -shock me from quitting his company, till I hurt my -own health not a little by sitting up with him, when -I was myself far from well; nor was it an easy matter -to oblige him even by compliance, for he always maintained -that no one forebore their own gratifications for -the sake of pleasing another; and if one <i>did</i> sit up, it -was, probably, to amuse one’s self. Some right, however, -he certainly had to say so, as he made his company -exceedingly entertaining, when he had once -forced one, by his vehement lamentations and piercing -reproofs, not to leave the room, but to sit quietly, and -make tea for him, as I often did in London till four -o’clock in the morning.”</p> - -<p>When dining one day with William Scott (afterwards -Lord Stowell), Johnson told a little story of -Garrick and his tea drinking. “I remember drinking -tea with him long ago, when Peg Woffington made it, -and he grumbled at her for making it too strong.” But -the names of worthy and eminent tea drinkers are -legion, and its virtues are so patent that even our -Legislators have a room set apart in the Houses of -Parliament for the discussion of it and other matters.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_269"></a>[269]</span></p> - -<p>One or two words only, before concluding the subject -of tea, and those are to show how to make a -good cup of tea.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_270"></a>[270]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus53.jpg" width="700" height="425" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_271"></a>[271]</span></p> - -<p>The teapot should be thoroughly warmed, and the -tea put into it before the addition of the water, which -should <i>just have come to the boil</i>, and not have been -boiling for any length of time. After standing about -three minutes it should be ready for drinking. No -second water should be used. A sufficiently large -teapot, or teapots, should be provided, and if the -quantity required exceeds the supply, then fresh tea -should be made.</p> - -<p>Tea drinking has been stigmatised by some as slow -poisoning; and in one of Hood’s works we are treated -to a pictorial representation of “Sloe poison.”</p> - -<p class="right">J. A.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> -<img src="images/illus54.jpg" width="400" height="500" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_272"></a>[272]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header21.jpg" width="500" height="125" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="MATE">MATÉ.</h3> - -<p>Its Use in South America—Districts where Grown—Its Manufacture—Early -Notice of—The <i>Maté</i> Cup and <i>Bombilla</i>—Method -of Drinking—Its Rapid Deterioration.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Yerba Maté, or Paraguay Tea, which is made -from the leaves of the <i>Ilex Paraguayensis</i>, or -Brazilian Holly, takes the place of <i>Thea Sinensis</i> -in nearly the whole of South America, where it has -been used by the Indians from time immemorial, and -by their conquerors and settlers since the seventeenth -century.</p> - -<p>It grows abundantly in Paraguay, Corrientes, Chaco, -and the south of Brazil, forming woods called <i>yerbales</i>. -One of the principal centres of the Maté industry is -the Villa Real, a small town above Asuncion, on the -Paraguay River; another is the Villa de San Xavier -in the district between the rivers Uruguay and Parana. -If let alone, it grows into a tree some fifteen or twenty -feet high; but the plants from which the Maté is collected -are moderate-sized shrubs, with numerous stems -from one root. The leaves are from four to five inches -long, and the finest Maté is made from the smallest -shrubs. One bush will furnish three different kinds -of tea, which are called <i>caa-cuys</i>, <i>caa-miri</i>, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_273"></a>[273]</span> -<i>caa-guaza</i>—<i>caa</i> meaning leaf. <i>Caa-cuys</i> is made from -the half expanded buds; but, although fine in flavour, -it has the misfortune of not keeping, and, consequently, -is all consumed in Paraguay. <i>Caa-miri</i> is prepared -in the same way as the Jesuit padres made it, the -leaves being carefully picked, and the nerves stripped -before roasting them; and the <i>Caa-guaza</i>, which is the -commonest, is prepared as follows:—</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"> -<img src="images/illus55.jpg" width="250" height="300" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>A Maté <i>yerbal</i>, or plantation, having been found, -and a sum paid to Government for the collection of -its leaves, a party of from twenty-five to thirty Indians -settle down there with the intention of passing some -five or six months. They make themselves as comfortable -as circumstances will permit, by building -wigwams covered with palm or banana leaves. Their -next care is to beat, with mallets, a good hard and -smooth earthen floor, about six feet square, which is -called a <i>tatacua</i>. Over this is built an arch of poles,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_274"></a>[274]</span> -on which is spread the boughs of the <i>Ilex</i>, and under -which a lively fire is kindled, that the leaves may be -thoroughly dried without being scorched. This result -being effected, the fire is swept off the hearth, and the -dried branches being spread thereon, the leaves are -beaten off with sticks, which operation reduces them to -a coarse powder. Sometimes they are pounded in -mortars, made by digging holes in the ground, well -rammed; but now-a-days the Maté is generally treated -in a more scientific and cleanly manner, the leaves -being heated, as tea in China, in large iron pans set -in brick work. The dried leaves are then taken to -the Maté mill, which may be worked by water power, -or by mules, the wooden stampers being worked by -teeth placed spirally round the circumference of a -revolving cylinder. A good-sized mill will turn out -three tons of Maté in a day. The crushed leaves are -then tightly packed in bags of damp bullock’s hide, -sewn up and left to dry, when they become as hard -as stones. These sacks generally weigh from 200 -to 220 lbs., and this quantity is considered a good -day’s work for a peon. The collectors suffer terribly -during this six months of forest life, and the severe -labour of collecting, in those tropical forests, is especially -fatal to the unfortunate peons.</p> - -<p>Its use is as universal as tea in China. The -method of taking it has not varied for centuries; and -a description of it in 1713<a id="FNanchor_133" href="#Footnote_133" class="fnanchor">[133]</a> is as good as if written -to-day.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_275"></a>[275]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus56.jpg" width="500" height="500" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>“During the day, they make much use of the Herb -of <i>Paraguay</i>, which some call St. Bartholomew’s Herb, -who, they pretend, came into that Province, where he -made it wholesome and beneficial, whereas, before, it -was venomous. Being only brought dry, and almost -in Powder, I cannot describe it. Instead of drinking -the Tincture, or Infusion, apart, as we drink Tea, they -put the Herb into a cup or bowl, made of a Calabash -or Gourd, tipped with silver, which they call <i>Maté</i>; -they add sugar, and pour on it the hot water, which -they drink immediately, without giving it time to -infuse, because it turns as black as ink. To avoid -drinking the Herb which swims at the top, they make -use of a silver pipe, at the end whereof is a bowl, full -of little holes, so that the liquor sucked in at the other<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_276"></a>[276]</span> -end is clear from the Herb. They drink round from -the same pipe, pouring hot water on the Herb as it is -drank off. Instead of a pipe, which they call <i>Bombilla</i>; -some part the Herb with a silver separation, called -<i>Apartador</i>, full of little holes. The reluctance which -the French have shown to drink after all sorts of -people, in a country where so many are diseased, has -occasioned the inventing of the use of little glass -pipes, which they began to use at <i>Lima</i>. That liquor -is, in my opinion, better than Tea; it has a flavour -of the Herb, which is agreeable enough; the people of -the country are so used to it, that even the poorest -use it once a day, when they rise in the morning.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 325px;"> -<img src="images/illus57.jpg" width="325" height="500" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>Frezier gives us an illustration of <i>Maté</i> drinking, in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_277"></a>[277]</span> -which we see a lady using the <i>bombilla</i>, although the -<i>Maté</i> cup has an <i>apartador</i>. The silver kettle for -supplying hot water is fed with charcoal at the side, -and somewhat resembles the Russian <i>Samovar</i>.</p> - -<p>We give a modern <i>Maté</i> cup and <i>bombilla</i>; but -this, which is made wholly of silver, is only intended -for one person’s use.</p> - -<p>Sometimes the <i>Maté</i> cups are made of the gourds -of the Cuca (<i>Crescentia Cujete</i>) or Cabaço (<i>Cucurbita -lagenaria</i>) silver mounted. Indeed, the cup itself is -the <i>Maté</i>, which gives the name to the herb, meaning, -in the language of the Incas, a <i>calabash</i>. The decoction -is drank with a little brown sugar or lemon added, -never with milk, and if not drank very quickly will -turn quite black.</p> - -<p>It loses in flavour and aroma by keeping, so that in -England it cannot possibly be drunk in perfection, -which, of course, can only be done on the spot where -it is produced. Its virtues are much vaunted. It is -supposed to give nervous vigour, and to enable the -system to resist fatigue; but this can scarcely account -for the enormous quantity drunk, although to persons -unused to it, when taken in large doses it is both purgative -and emetic.</p> - -<p>Like Chinese tea, it has a volatile oil, which gives -it its peculiar aroma; it also contains nearly 2 per -cent. of theine, and about 16 per cent. of an astringent -acid, resembling tannin, which causes the infusion to -turn black after a slight exposure to the air.</p> - -<p>There is another variety of <i>Maté</i>, called <i>Gongonha</i>, -which is drunk in Brazil, which is prepared from two<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_278"></a>[278]</span> -other species of holly, the <i>Ilex Gongonha</i> and the <i>Ilex -Theezans</i>. In Chili a tea is made from the leaves -of the <i>Psoralea glandulosa</i>, and in Central America -an infusion of the leaves of the <i>Capraria bifolia</i> is -drunk.</p> - -<p class="right">J. A.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> -<img src="images/footer9.jpg" width="200" height="325" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_279"></a>[279]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header22.jpg" width="500" height="300" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="CUCA">CUCA.</h3> - -<p>Where Grown—Sustaining Power of Cuca—Early Mention of it, -and Methods of Preparing and Using it—Cowley on Cuca—Its -Modern Manufacture and Cost—Its Medicinal Properties—Cocaine -and its Dangers.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Cuca or Coca (<i>Erythroxylon Coca</i>) is now used -as a drink, the leaves, hitherto, having been -masticated. It has very valuable medicinal qualities, -one of the chief being the ability to sustain fatigue -by those who use it. It grows in the valleys of the -eastern slope of the Andes, in Bolivia, and Peru; wild -in many places, but that in use is generally cultivated. -It has been known ever since the Conquest of Peru, -notices of it being very early; and, considering the -length of time this knowledge has obtained, it is -marvellous that it is only of very late years that -our scientific men have interested themselves in its -medicinal properties, and that an infusion of its leaves -has not come into common use.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_280"></a>[280]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> -<img src="images/illus58.jpg" width="350" height="500" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>The earliest mention to be found of it in English -is in a<a id="FNanchor_134" href="#Footnote_134" class="fnanchor">[134]</a> translation (1577) of a book written by Dr. -Monades of Seville.</p> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p class="center">“<span class="smcap">Of the Coca.</span></p> - -<p>“I was desirous to see that hearbe so celebrated -of the Indians, so many yeares past, which they doe -call the <i>Coca</i>, which they doe sow and till with muche -care and diligence, for because they doe use it for -their pleasures, which we will speake of. The <i>Coca</i> is -an hearbe of the height of a yerd, little more or lesse,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_281"></a>[281]</span> -he carrieth his Leaves like to <i>Arraihau</i>, somewhat -greater, and in that Leafe there is marked another -Leafe of the like forme, with a line very thinne, they -are softe, and of Coulour a light greene, they carrie -the seede in clusters, and it commeth to be so redde -when it is ripe, as the Seede of <i>Arraihau</i>, when it is -ripe. And it is of the same greatnesse, when the -hearbe is seasoned, that it is to be gathered, it is -knowen in the seede, that it is ripe, and of some -rednes like to a blackekishe coulour, and the hearbe -beyng gathered, they put them into Canes, and other -thinges, that they may drie, that it maie be kepte and -caried to other partes. For that they carrie them from -some high Mountaines, to others, as Marchaundise -to be soulde, and they barter and chaunge them for -Mantelles, and Cattell, and Salte, and other thinges -whiche doe runne like to money amongest us, they doe -put the seede into <i>Almaciga</i>,<a id="FNanchor_135" href="#Footnote_135" class="fnanchor">[135]</a> and from that thei do -take them up, and set them in another place, into -Earth that is wel laboured or tilled, and made as -it is convenient for to put them, by their lines and -order, as we doe put here a Garden of Beanes, or of -Peason.</p> - -<p>“The use of it amongest the Indians is a thing -generall, for many thinges, for when they doe travail -by the waie, for neede and for their content when they -are in their houses, thei use it in this forme. Thei -take Cokles or Oisters in their shelles, and they doe -burne them and grinde them, and after they are -burned they remaine like Lyme, very small grounde,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_282"></a>[282]</span> -and they take of the Leves of the <i>Coca</i>, and they -chawe them in their Mouthes, and, as they go -chawyng, they goe mingling with it of that pouder -made of the shelles in such sorte, that they make it -like to a Paste taking lesse of the Pouder then of the -Hearbe, and of this Paste they make certaine small -Bawles rounde, and they put them to drie, and when -they will use of them, they take a little Ball in their -mouthe, and they chawe hym; passing hym from one -parte to another, procuring to conserue him all that -they can, and that beyng doen, they doe retaurne to -take another, and so they goe, using of it all the tyme -that they have neede, whiche is when they travaill -by the waie, and especially if it be by waies where is -no meate, or lacke of water. For the use of these -little Bawles doe take the hunger and thurste from -them, and they say that they dooe receive substaunce, -as though that they did eate. At other times thei -use of them for their pleasure, although that they -labour not by the waie, and thei do use the same <i>Coca</i> -alone, chawing it and bringing it in their mouthes, -from one side to another, untill there be no vertue -remainyng in it, and then they take another.”</p> - -</div> - -<p>Garcia Lasso de la Vega, who wrote his <i>Commentarios -Reales</i> in 1609, gives a fine description of -Cuca—which is taken from his translator, Sir Paul -Rycaut.</p> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p class="center">“<i>Of the pretious Leafe called</i> Cuca.”</p> - -<p>“But above all we must not omit to discourse at -large of the Herb which the <i>Indians</i> call <i>Cuca</i>, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_283"></a>[283]</span> -the <i>Spaniards</i>, <i>Coca</i>, being that which is, and hath -been a considerable part of the Riches of <i>Peru</i>, and -such as hath yielded great benefit to the Merchants. -And, indeed, the <i>Indians</i> did justly esteem it for the -rare Virtues and Qualities of it, which the <i>Spaniards</i> -have not onely approved, but have also discovered -several other specifick and medicinal Qualities belonging -to it. <i>Blas Valera</i>, who was a very curious -Person, and one who had resided many years in <i>Peru</i>, -and came from thence thirty years after my departure, -hath wrote Very largely of the many Virtues of this -Herb, and such as he hath found out by his own -experience. His words are these, ‘The <i>Cuca</i> is a -small, tender Tree or Bind, about the height and -biggness of a Vine; it produceth not many Branches, -but is full of delicate Leaves, of about the breadth and -length of a Man’s Thumb; it is of an excellent smell, -and very fragrant; the <i>Spaniards</i> and <i>Indians</i> do both -give them the name of <i>Cuca</i>; the which is so much -esteemed by the <i>Indians</i>, that they prefer it before -Gold, or Silver, or Pretious Stones. They plant and -manure them with great art and diligence, and gather -them with great care, pulling them leaf by leaf, and -then lay them to dry in the Sun, and so the Indians -eat them dry.</p> - -<p>“‘The Virtue and Benefit of this <i>Cuca</i> is plainly -observable in labouring Men, who, having eaten it are -much refreshed, and often labour a whole day in the -strength of it, without any other nourishment. The -<i>Cuca</i> moreover preserves the Body from many infirmities; -and our Physicians make use of it, being<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_284"></a>[284]</span> -dried and beaten to powder, to ease and assuage the -Inflammation, or swelling of any Wound; it is good -to strengthen bones which have been broken, and -expell colds from the Body, and to prevent them; it -is good also to cleanse great Wounds of Worms, and -heal them; nor is the Virtue of it less, being taken -inwardly, than it is by outward applications. Besides -all which Virtues, it yields a great benefit to the -Bishop and Canons and other Dependents on the -Cathedral Church of <i>Cozco</i>, the Tithes of the Leaves of -<i>Cuca</i> being their greatest Revenue; it is also a great -commodity amongst the Merchants; notwithstanding -all which good Qualities of the <i>Cuca</i>, there are many, -who being ignorant of its Virtues have wrote against -it; for no other reason, than because the Gentiles, in -ancient times, did, by their Diviners and Wizards offer -this <i>Cuca</i> to their Gods in Sacrifice; and, therefore, -having been abused to Idolatry, they conclude that it -ought for ever to be esteemed abominable and prophane. -This Argument might be available, if it had -been the custome to offer this Herb onely to the Devil, -but, in regard that both ancient and modern Idolaters -have made their Corn, and Fruits, and whatsoever -grows above or beneath the earth, their Drinks and -Water, their Wool and Clothing, their Flocks and -Herds, and all things else, the matter and subject of -their Sacrifices; we may argue from the same foundation, -that all those things are defiled and rendred as -abominable and unclean as the <i>Cuca</i>; but to the clean, -all things being clean, let us teach them to abhor and -forsake their superstitious and idolatrous Worships,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_285"></a>[285]</span> -and let us, using our Christian Liberty, receive those -Blessings with moderation and thanksgiving.’</p> - -<p>“Thus far are the Words of <i>Blas Valera</i>. To which -we shall add thus much farther, that this little Tree is -about the height of a Man, in the planting of which -they cast the seed in its green shell, and when it -grows up, they then hoa and open the Earth for it, as -they do for Vines, supporting the tender twigs with -stakes; and in planting, they take great care that the -tender roots be laid streight in the Earth, for with the -least doubling they dry and wither; they take likewise -the Leaf of every sprig by itself, and, holding it -between their fingers, they cut it with great care till -they come to the Bud, but do not touch it, for then -the whole branch will wither; both the outside and -inside of this Leaf in the greenness and shape of it, is -like the <i>Arbuteus</i>, onely the Leaves are so thin, that -three or four of them, being doubled, are not so thick -as that of the <i>Arbuteus</i>....</p> - -<p>“When they gather the Leaves they dry them in the -Sun; but care is to be taken that they are not over-dried, -for then they lose much of their Virtue, and, -being very thin, soon turn to powder; nor will they -bear much moisture; for they soon grow musty and -rotten; but they lay them up in Baskets of slit Canes, -of which many fine ones are made in the <i>Antis</i>. -With the Leaves of those big Canes, which are about -the third of a yard long, they cover the top of the -Baskets, to keep Moisture from the Leaves, which is -very prejudicial to them; and to consider the great -pains and care which is taken to nourish this <i>Cuca</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_286"></a>[286]</span> -and the provisions of all things which are made for it, -we ought rather to render thanks to God for his -abundant blessings in the variety of his Creatures, -than to believe or conclude that what we write is -fabulous or incredible; if these fruits were to be -planted or nourished in other Countries, the charge -and labour of them would be more than the benefit.</p> - -<p>“The Herb is gathered every four Months, that is -three times a year, and in the manuring of it care is -taken to weed it often; for the Country being hot and -moist, the Weeds grow apace, and the Herb sometimes -increases so fast, that the season for gathering of it -advances fifteen days; so that sometimes they have -four Harvests for it in a year; the which, a certain -covetous Tithe-gatherer observing, in my time, farmed -the Tithes of all the principal and rich Inheritances -and Possessions about <i>Cozco</i>, and, taking care to keep -them clear and clean from Weeds, he so improved his -Revenue, that the year following, the Farmer of the -Tithes made two thirds more than what had been -made in the preceding years; which caused a Law -Suit between the Farmer and the Proprietor, but what -the Issue was of it, I that was then but a Boy, did -not much remark.</p> - -<p>“Amongst many other Virtues of this <i>Cuca</i>, they say -it corroborates the Gums, and fortifies the Teeth, and -that it gives strength and vigour to any person that -labours and toils, onely by carrying it in his mouth. I -remember a Story which I heard in my own Countrey. -That a certain Gentleman, both by Bloud and Vertue, -called <i>Rodrigo Pantoia</i>, journeying once from <i>Cozco</i> to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_287"></a>[287]</span> -<i>Rimac</i>,<a id="FNanchor_136" href="#Footnote_136" class="fnanchor">[136]</a> met with a poor <i>Spaniard</i> (for there are some -poor there, as well as here), travelling on foot, carrying -a little Girl of about two years of age in his Armes; -and being an acquaintance of this <i>Pantoia</i>, he asked him -how he came to give himself the trouble of carrying -that burthen; to which the person that was on foot, -replied, that he was poor, and had not money to hire -an <i>Indian</i> to carry it.</p> - -<p>“In this discourse with him, <i>Pantoia</i> observed that -his mouth was full of the <i>Cuca</i>; and it being, at that -time, that the <i>Spaniards</i> abhorred all things which -the <i>Indians</i> did eat or drink, because they had been -abused to Idolatry, and particularly they hated the -<i>Cuca</i>, as a base and stinking Weed, which gave cause -to <i>Pantoia</i> to ask him farther, why he, being a -<i>Spaniards</i>, did use those things which the <i>Spaniards</i> -hated; for his necessities could never be so great as -to compell him to Meats or Customs unlawfull. To -which the Souldier replied, that though he abhorred -it as much as the <i>Spaniards</i>, yet necessity forced him -to imitate the <i>Indians</i> therein; for that without it he -could never be able to travell and carry his Burthen, -for that holding it in his mouth, he found such refreshment -and strength, that he was able to carry his Load, -and perform his Journey with chearfulness. <i>Pantoia</i> -wondring at this Report, related to many others, who, -afterwards, making the same experiment thereof, -found that the <i>Indians</i> made use of it rather for their -refreshment and necessity, than for any pleasure in the -taste, which in itself is not very pleasant or agreeable.”</p> - -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_288"></a>[288]</span></p> - -<p>A plant having such manifold and beneficent properties -must needs have a supernatural origin, and -the Indians had a belief that the goddess Varischa -first introduced the Cuca plant into Peru, and taught -the inhabitants the use thereof. Abraham Cowley -sang thereof in his Latin poems, “Sex libri plantarum,” -and use is made here of the translation by -Nahum Tate, of the fifth book, published in 1700. -The Indian Bacchus challenge the other deities to -judge between the fruits of the two worlds.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse center">...</div> - <div class="verse indent0">“But <i>Bacchus</i> much more sportive than the rest,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Fills up a Bowl with Juice from Grapestones drein’d,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And puts it in <i>Omelichilus</i> hand;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Take off this Draught, said he, if thou art wise,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">’Twill purge thy Cannibal Stomach’s Crudities.</div> - <div class="verse indent2">He, unaccustomed to the acid Juice</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Storm’d, and with blows had answer’d the Abuse,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">But fear’d t’engage the <i>European</i> Guest,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Whose Strength and Courage had subdu’d the <i>East</i>.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">He therefore chooses a less dang’rous fray,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And summons all his Country’s Plants away:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Forthwith in decent Order they appear,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And various Fruits on various Branches wear;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Like <i>Amazons</i> they stand in painted Arms,</div> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>Coca</i> alone appears with little Charms;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Yet led the Van, our scoffing <i>Venus</i> scorn’d</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The shrublike Tree, and with no Fruit adorn’d.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The <i>Indian</i> Plants, said she, are like to speed</div> - <div class="verse indent0">In this Dispute of the most sterile Breed,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Who choose a <i>Dwarf</i> and <i>Eunuch</i> for their Head.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Our Gods laugh’d out aloud at what she said.</div> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>Pachamama</i> defends her darling Tree,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And said the wanton Goddess was too free,</div><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_289"></a>[289]</span> - <div class="verse indent0">You only know the fruitfulness of Lust,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And therefore here your Judgement is unjust,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Your skill in other offsprings we may trust,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">With those Chast Tribes that no distinction know</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Of Sex, your Province nothing has to do.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Of all the Plants that any Soil does bear,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">This Tree in Fruits the Richest does appear,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">It bears the best, and bears ’em all the year.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Ev’n now with Fruits ’tis stor’d—why laugh you yet?</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Behold how thick with Leaves it is beset,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Each Leaf is Fruit, and such substantial Fare</div> - <div class="verse indent0">No Fruit beside to Rival it will dare.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Mov’d with his Countries Roming Fate (whose Coil</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Must for her Treasures be expos’d to toil)</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Our <i>Varicocha</i> first this <i>Coca</i> sent,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Endow’d with Leaves of wondrous Nourishment,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Whose Juice succ’d in, and to the Stomach ta’en,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Long Hunger and long Labour can sustain;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">From which our faint and weary Bodies find</div> - <div class="verse indent0">More Succour, more they cheat the drooping Mind</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Than can your <i>Bacchus</i> and your Ceres join’d.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Three Leaves supply for six days march afford,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The <i>Quitoita</i> with this Provision stor’d</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Can pass the vast and cloudy <i>Andes</i> o’er—</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The dreadful <i>Andes</i> plac’d ’twixt Winter’s store</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Of Winds, Rain, Snow, and that more humble Earth,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">That gives the small but valiant <i>Coca</i> Birth;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">This Champion that makes war-like <i>Venus</i> Mirth.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Nor <i>Coca</i> only useful art at home,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">A famous Merchandize thou art become;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">A thousand <i>Paci</i> and <i>Vicugni</i> groan</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Yearly beneath thy Loads, and for thy sake alone</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The spacious World’s to us by Commerce known.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Dr. Von Tschudi says that the Coca plant is regarded -by the Peruvian Indian, as something sacred -and mysterious, and it sustained an important part in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_290"></a>[290]</span> -religion of the Incas. In all ceremonies, whether -religious or warlike, it was introduced, for producing -smoke at the great offerings, or as the sacrifice itself. -During divine worship the priests chewed Coca -leaves, and, unless they were supplied with them, it -was believed that the favour of the gods could not be -propitiated. It was also deemed necessary that the -supplicator for divine grace should approach the -priests with an <i>Acullico</i> in his mouth. It was -believed that any business undertaken without the -benediction of Coca leaves could not prosper; and to -the shrub itself worship was rendered.</p> - -<p>During an interval of more than 300 years, Christianity -has not been able to subdue the deep-rooted -idolatry; for everywhere are found traces of belief in -the mysterious power of this plant. The excavators -in the mines of Cerro de Pasco throw masticated Coca -on hard veins of metal, in the belief that it softens the -ore and renders it more easy to work. The origin of -this custom is easily explained, when it is recollected -that in the time of the Incas it was believed that the -<i>Coyas</i>, or deities of metals, rendered the mountains -impenetrable, if they were not propitiated by the -odour of Coca. The Indians, even at the present -time,<a id="FNanchor_137" href="#Footnote_137" class="fnanchor">[137]</a> put Coca leaves into the mouths of dead persons, -to secure to them a favourable reception on their -entrance into another world; and when a Peruvian -Indian, on a journey, falls in with a mummy, he, with -timid reverence, presents to it some Coca leaves as his -pious offering.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_291"></a>[291]</span></p> - -<p>Markham<a id="FNanchor_138" href="#Footnote_138" class="fnanchor">[138]</a> also says, “The reliance on the extraordinary -virtues of the Coca leaf, amongst the -Peruvian Indians, is so strong, that, in the Huanaco -province, they believe that, if a dying man can taste -a leaf placed on his tongue, it is a sure sign of his -future happiness.”</p> - -<p>He also gives an account of the modern cultivation -of the plant. Sowing is commenced in December and -January, when the rains begin, which continue until -April. The seeds are spread on the surface of the -soil in a small nursery or raising ground called -<i>almaciga</i>, over which there is generally a thatch roof -(<i>huascichi</i>). At the end of about a fortnight they -come up; the young plants being continually watered, -and protected from the sun by the <i>huascichi</i>. The -following year they are transplanted to a soil specially -prepared by thorough weeding, and breaking up the -clods very fine by hand; often in terraces only affording -room for a single row of plants, up the side of the -mountains, which are kept up by small stone walls. -The plants are generally placed in square holes called -<i>aspi</i>, a foot deep, with stones on the sides to prevent -the earth from falling in. Three or four are planted -in each hole, and grow up together.</p> - -<p>In Caravaya and Bolivia the soil in which the Coca -grows is composed of a blackish clay, formed from the -decomposition of the schists, which form the principal -geological features of the mountains. On level ground -the plants are placed in furrows called <i>nachos</i>, separated -by little walls of earth, <i>umachas</i>, at the foot of each of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_292"></a>[292]</span> -which a row of plants is placed; but this is a modern -innovation, the terrace cultivation being the most -ancient. At the end of eighteen months the plants -yield their first harvest, and continue to yield for upwards -of forty years. The first harvest is called <i>quita -calzon</i>, and the leaves are then picked very carefully, -one by one, to avoid disturbing the roots of the young -tender plants. The following harvests are called <i>mitta</i> -(“time” or “season”), and take place three and even -four times in the year. The most abundant harvest -takes place in March, immediately after the rains; the -worst, at the end of June, called the <i>Mitta de San Juan</i>. -The third, called <i>Mitta de Santos</i>, is in October or -November. With plenty of watering, forty days -suffice to cover the plants with leaves afresh. It is -necessary to weed the ground very carefully, especially -while the plants are young, and the harvest is gathered -by women and children.</p> - -<p>The green leaves, called <i>matu</i>, are deposited in a -piece of cloth which each picker carries, and are then -spread out in the drying yard, called <i>matu-caucha</i>, -and carefully dried in the sun. The dried leaf is called -<i>Coca</i>. The drying yard is formed of slate flags, called -<i>pizarra</i>; and when the leaves are thoroughly dry, -they are sewn up in <i>cestos</i>, or sacks, made of banana -leaves, of 20 lbs. each, strengthened by an exterior -covering of <i>bayeta</i>, or cloth.<a id="FNanchor_139" href="#Footnote_139" class="fnanchor">[139]</a> They are also -packed in <i>tambores</i> of 50 lbs. each, pressed tightly -down. Dr. Poeppig (writing in 1827-32) reckoned -the profits of a Coca farm to be forty-five per cent.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_293"></a>[293]</span></p> - -<p>The harvest is greatest in a hot moist situation; but -the leaf generally considered the best flavoured by -consumers, grows in drier parts, on the sides of hills. -The greatest care is required in the drying; for too -much sun causes the leaves to dry up and lose their -flavour, while, if packed up moist, they become fetid. -They are generally exposed to the sun in thin layers.</p> - -<p>The approximate annual produce of Coca in Peru is -about 15,000,000 lbs., the average yield being about -800 lbs. an acre. More than 10,000,000 lbs. are produced -annually in Bolivia, according to Dr. Booth of -La Paz; so that the annual yield of Coca throughout -South America, including Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, and -Pasto, may be estimated at more than 30,000,000 lbs. -At Tacna, the <i>tambor</i> of 50 lbs. is worth 9 to 12 -dollars, the fluctuations in price being caused by the -perishable nature of the article, which cannot be kept -in stock for any length of time. The average duration -of Coca in a sound state, on the coast, is about five -months, after which time it is said to lose flavour, and -is rejected by the Indians as worthless.</p> - -<p>Cuca leaves can be bought in London, but up to -the present time it has not come into much use as -a beverage, yet it is supplied in Roots’ Cuca Cocoa, -which is a combination of Cuca leaves, and the Cocoa -bean.</p> - -<p>There is no doubt whatever in Cuca possessing the -qualities ascribed to it, and its application in medicine -for many “ills that man is heir to,” is being diligently -pursued by physicians all over the civilized world, -with very beneficial results, and it is a valuable<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_294"></a>[294]</span> -addition to our pharmacopœia. Johnston, in <i>The -Chemistry of Common Life</i>,<a id="FNanchor_140" href="#Footnote_140" class="fnanchor">[140]</a> speaking of the general -effects of the Coca leaf, says that it “acts differently -according to the way in which it is used. When infused, -and drunk like tea, it produces a gentle excitement, -followed by wakefulness; and, if taken strong, -retards the approach of hunger, prevents the usual -breathlessness in climbing hills, and, in large doses, -dilates the pupil, and renders the eye intolerant of -light. It is seldom used in this way, however, but is -commonly chewed in the form of a ball or quid, which -is turned over and over in the mouth, as is done with -tobacco. In this way its action is more gradual and -prolonged than when the infusion only is taken. It is -also very different in its character, because the constant -chewing, the continued action of the saliva, and the -influence of the lime or ashes chewed along with it, -extract from the leaf certain other active constituents -which water alone does not dissolve, when it is infused -after the manner of tea.”</p> - -<p>It contains at least three different constituents; an -odoriferous substance, a bitter principle, and a kind of -tannic acid. When Cuca is imported into this country -the leaves are coated with a resinous substance, like -hops have, slightly soluble in water, but wholly in -ether—which, on evaporation, leaves a brownish resin, -which is powerfully odorous. This scent vanishes if it -is exposed to the air for any length of time, and thus -is lost one of the most important ingredients of good -Cuca—rendering the leaf useless by keeping.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_295"></a>[295]</span></p> - -<p>It contains a crystalline bitter principle which can -be separated from it by alcohol. Like <i>Theine</i>, it is an -alkaloid, and is called <i>Cocaine</i>; but it is not harmless, -as, in many particulars, and in its physiological action -upon the system, it resembles <i>Atropine</i>, the alkaloid -of the deadly nightshade.</p> - -<p>It also has a tannic acid, which gives a deep brownish -green colour to the <i>per</i> salts of iron. So we see in its -constituents it closely resembles the <i>Thea Sinensis</i>, -only it is more powerful in its effects on the human -frame, and, consequently, ought not to be taken in the -same quantity as we now take tea, but it is invaluable -in preventing, or greatly diminishing, the ordinary and -natural waste which usually accompanies bodily exertion.</p> - -<p class="right">J. A.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/footer10.jpg" width="300" height="300" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_296"></a>[296]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header23.jpg" width="500" height="125" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="KOLA">KOLA.</h3> - -<p>Whence Kola comes—Early Mention of—Early Trade in—Cure -for Drunkenness—The <i>Cattia edulis</i>—Substitutes for Tea.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Kola can scarcely be called a tea, because, as -a drink, it is produced from a nut, instead of a -leaf, but it is put here because it contains the alkaloid -<i>Theine</i>. Its botanical name is <i>Sterculia acuminata</i>, -and it is a native of tropical West Africa, although -now introduced into the West Indies and Brazils. -The earliest mention of it to be found, is in “the -Sieur Brüe’s Journey from Albreda, on the river -Gambia, to Kachao, by land, in the year 1700.” Shortly -after his start from Gambia, he was entertained by a -Portuguese lady, and “after a short Compliment, one -of her Slaves, a young, handsome Girl, but very immodestly -dressed, presented the General a Pewter -Basin full of <i>Kola</i>, a fruit much valued by the -<i>Portugueze</i>. It is bitter, and makes the Teeth and -Spittle yellow.”</p> - -<p>Barbot<a id="FNanchor_141" href="#Footnote_141" class="fnanchor">[141]</a> gives a very bad illustration of the nut, and -the following description. “The <i>Cola</i> is a sort of fruit, -somewhat resembling a large chestnut. The tree is<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_297"></a>[297]</span> -very tall and large, on which this fruit grows, in clusters, -ten or twelve of them together; the outside of it is -red, with some mixture of blue; and the inside, when -cut, violet colour and brown. It comes once a year, -is of a harsh, sharp taste, but quenches the thirst, and -makes water relish so well, that most of the <i>Blacks</i> -carry it about them, wheresoever they go, frequently -chewing, and some eat it all day, but forbear at night, -believing it hinders their sleeping. The whole country -abounds in this <i>Cola</i>, which yields the natives considerable -profit, selling it to their neighbours up in the inland; -who, as some <i>Blacks</i> told me, sell it again to -a sort of white men, who repair to them at a certain -time of the year, and take off great quantities of it. -These white men are suppos’d to be of <i>Morocco</i> or -<i>Barbary</i>, for the <i>English</i> of <i>Bence</i> island assur’d me, -there was a great quantity carry’d yearly by land to -<i>Tunis</i> and <i>Tripoli</i>, in <i>Barbary</i>.”</p> - -<p>So we see that, although a fair trade was done in -Kola over 150 years ago, it is only beginning to be -known in Europe.</p> - -<p>In Congo it is called Makasso, and Guru in Soudan, -and the seeds or nuts are used in West and Central -Africa to make a refreshing beverage, which is somewhat -allied to tea, and which has the same active -principle as cocoa, without so much fatty matter. It -is refreshing, invigorating, and has digestive properties. -In the West Indies it is sometimes used by the -negroes to counteract the effects of intoxication. It -grows in pods, which contains several seeds, about the -size of a horse chestnut. At present it is only used as<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_298"></a>[298]</span> -a tonic. Kola is said to be a cure for drunkenness, -and to sober an inebriate in an hour’s time; but woe -be to him if he returns to his evil courses for three or -four days—his punishment will be equal to sea-sickness.</p> - -<p>There is a new product, about which, at present, -very little is known in Europe. This is the <i>Cattia -edulis</i>, which is said to be similar in its properties to -Maté, Cuca, and Kola, in maintaining animal strength -for a time, in the absence of food. It has been used -by the natives of Arabia and Abyssinia for centuries. -The plant is a shrub with lanceolate leaves of an olive-green -colour, and it flourishes in Africa between 15° -N. and 30° S. latitude, but it is chiefly cultivated in -Arabia, especially in the province of Yemen. From -Aden it is exported to the north-east of Africa, and -the coasts of Somali land. The leaves are either -chewed or infused like tea, and their sustaining virtues -have recently been tested by M. Leloups, a French -therapeutist. He employed not only the infusion, but -the tincture, and an extract of the leaves, finding them -all to produce wakefulness and banish fatigue. No -definite alkaloid has yet been obtained from the -leaves.</p> - -<p>In conclusion I may give the following list of substitutes -for Chinese Tea and Maté.</p> - -<table summary="Substitutes for Chinese Tea and Maté"> - <tr> - <th>Popular Name.</th> - <th>Where collected and used.</th> - <th>Name of Plant.</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Arabian Tea.</td> - <td>Arabia.</td> - <td>{ Cattia edulis.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td>Abyssinia.</td> - <td>{ Cattia Spinosa.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Unnamed.</td> - <td>China.</td> - <td>Sageretia theezans.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>New Jersey Tea.</td> - <td>N. America.</td> - <td>Ceanothus Americanus.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Unnamed.</td> - <td>Chili.</td> - <td>Psoralea glandulosa.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_299"></a>[299]</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Boer Tea.</td> - <td>Cape of Good Hope.</td> - <td>Cyclopia Vogelii.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td rowspan="2" class="valign nw">Sloe and Strawberry Tea.</td> - <td rowspan="2" class="valign">North Europe.</td> - <td>{ Prunus spinosa ⅓</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>{ Fragraria collina or F. resca ⅔.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Long-life Tea.</td> - <td>Bencoolen.</td> - <td>Glaphyria nitida (flowers).</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Tea Plants.</td> - <td rowspan="2" class="valign">New Holland.</td> - <td rowspan="2" class="valign">Leptospermum scoparium and L. Thea. Melaleuca genistifolia, and M. scoparia.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Tasmanian Tea.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Unnamed.</td> - <td>Chili.</td> - <td>Myrtus ugni.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Colony Tea.</td> - <td>Cape of Good Hope.</td> - <td>Helichrysum serpyllifolium.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Mountain Tea.</td> - <td>N. America.</td> - <td>Gualtheria procumbens.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Labrador Tea.</td> - <td rowspan="2" class="valign">N. America.</td> - <td rowspan="2" class="valign">Ledum palustre and Ledum latifolium.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>James’s Tea.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Toolsie Tea.</td> - <td>India.</td> - <td>Ocymum album.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Oswego Tea.</td> - <td>N. America.</td> - <td>Monarda didyma and M. purpurea.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Unnamed.</td> - <td>France.</td> - <td>Micromeria thea sinensis.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Sage Tea.</td> - <td>North Europe.</td> - <td>Salvia officinalis.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Ama tsja: Tea of Heaven.</td> - <td>Japan.</td> - <td>Hydrangea thunbergii.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>“Burr.”</td> - <td>New Holland.</td> - <td>Acæna sanguisorba.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Santa Fé Tea.</td> - <td>New Granada.</td> - <td>Styrax alstonia.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Unnamed.</td> - <td>Central America.</td> - <td>Capraria bifolia.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Cape Barran Tea.</td> - <td>New Holland.</td> - <td>Correa alba.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Capitão da matto.</td> - <td>Brazil.</td> - <td>Lautana pseudo thea.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Faham or Bourbon Tea.</td> - <td>Mauritius.</td> - <td>Angrœcum fragrans.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Brazilian Tea.</td> - <td>Austria.</td> - <td>Stachytarpheta jamaicensis.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Mexican Tea.</td> - <td class="nw">Mexico and Columbia.</td> - <td>Chenopodium ambrosoides.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Apalachian Tea.</td> - <td>N. America.</td> - <td>Viburnum Cassinoides, and Prinos glaber.</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_300"></a>[300]</span></p> - -<p>A tea is also made of coffee leaves, and this infusion -has been drunk for an unknown time in the -Eastern Archipelago, especially in the island of Sumatra. -It is said to be an agreeable beverage, and is -preferred by the natives to the berry.</p> - -<p class="right">J. A.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> -<img src="images/footer11.jpg" width="350" height="400" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_301"></a>[301]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/illus59.jpg" width="700" height="400" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_302"></a>[302]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_303"></a>[303]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> -<img src="images/header24.jpg" width="350" height="500" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="COFFEE">COFFEE.</h3> - -<p>Its Growth and Birthplace—Where most Drank—Legends as to its -Origin—Its Gradual Spread—Introduction into Europe and -England—Pasqua Rosee’s Handbill—The English Coffee -Houses—Their Rules—A Poem about Coffee Houses.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Next to tea, Coffee is, perhaps, the infusion -most drank, its use being universal in Turkey, -Egypt, Persia, and most Mahometan countries; and on -the continent of Europe, with the exception of Russia, -it is a greater favourite than tea. In Norway and -Sweden it is especially drank, whilst tea is comparatively -disused.</p> - -<p>It is the seed of an evergreen shrub (<i>Coffea Arabica</i>) -which grows from six to twelve feet high, with a stem -of from six to fifteen inches in circumference. When -the blossom falls off, there remains, in its room, or -rather, springs from each blossom, a small fruit, green<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_304"></a>[304]</span> -at first, but which becomes red when it ripens; it is -not unlike a cherry, and is very good to eat. Under -the flesh of this cherry, instead of the stone, is found -the bean, or berry, which we call coffee, wrapped -round in a fine thin skin. The berry is then very -soft, and of a disagreeable taste; but as the cherry -ripens, the berry in the inside grows harder, and the -dried-up fruit being the flesh or the pulp of it, which -was before eatable, becomes a shell or pod, of a deep -brown colour. The berry is now solid, and of a clear -transparent green. Each shell contains one berry, -which splits into two equal parts.</p> - -<p>In Abyssinia coffee appears to have been used as a -drink from time immemorial. Abd-Alkader, a learned -native of Medina, writing at the beginning of the -seventeenth century, gives us the history of its introduction -into Arabia. A certain Sheikh, notorious for -his piety and knowledge, named Jemal-Eddin, brought -it from Persia to Aden. He was wont to take it as a -medicine relieving the headache, enlivening the heart, -and preventing drowsiness. This last attribute at -once recommended it to the various imams, muftis, and -dervishes, who wished to remain awake for the performance -of religious exercises at night. The examples -of these holy persons had its usual influence -upon the people, and coffee drinking soon became a -common custom.</p> - -<p>Not, however, without considerable opposition did -this fashion come into vogue; there were many long -and animated disputes about the legitimacy of drinking -coffee. Its defenders alleged its medicinal virtues, its<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_305"></a>[305]</span> -opponents declared it to be like wine, of an inebriating -nature—indeed, a sort of wine itself; and went so far, -in the heat of argument, as to say that all who drank it -would appear at the general resurrection with faces -blacker than the bottoms of their coffee-pots.</p> - -<p>An insult of this sort was surely sufficient to justify -a prompt adoption of the severest rejoinder by the -other side, and, in replying, they became poetic. Said -one:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“It is a dear object of desire to the collector of knowledge;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">It is the drink of the people of God, and in it is health,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">It’s odour is Musk, it’s colour Ink:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The wise man and the good will sip it pure as milk in its innocence,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And differing from it but in blackness.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>And another sang—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Courtesy is the coat of the customers in a Coffee-house.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The Coffee-house itself is as Paradise in its carpets, its company and its tender delights.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">When the waiter comes with the Coffee in its cup of porcelain, sorrow disappears, and all anguish sinks under its dominion.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">In its water we wash away our impurities, and burn out our solicitudes in its fire.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The man who has looked only on its chafing dish will say, ‘Fie upon the Wine and the Wine Vats.’”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Coffee won the day.</p> - -<p>There is, however, another story of its introduction—how -in the far-off past a poor dervish, who lived in -the deserts of Arabia, noticed that his goats came -home every evening in a state of hilarity. Unable to -account for this, he watched them, and found them<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_306"></a>[306]</span> -feeding on the blossoms and berries of a tree which he -had never before noticed. He experimented upon -himself by eating them, and soon became as jocund -as his goats, so much so, that he was accused of having -partaken of the accursed juice of the grape. But he -soon convinced his maligners that the source of his -high spirits was harmless, and they, tasting, became -converts, and the berry became of general use.</p> - -<p>From Abyssinia, the use of coffee spread to Persia -and Arabia, thence to Aden, Mecca, Cairo, Damascus, -Aleppo and Constantinople, whence it found its way -to Venice in 1615. But it is hard to say exactly when -its use was introduced into England. Robert Burton -mentions it in his <i>Anatomy of Melancholy</i>, but not -in the 1621 edition. He says,<a id="FNanchor_142" href="#Footnote_142" class="fnanchor">[142]</a> “The Turks have a -drink called Coffee (for they use no wine), so named of -a berry, as black as soot, and as bitter (like that black -drink which was in use among the Lacedæmonians, -and perhaps the same), which they sip still of, and sup -as warm as they can suffer; they spend much time -in those coffee houses, which are somewhat like our -alehouses or taverns, and there they sit, chatting and -drinking, to drive away the time, and to be merry -together, because they find by experience that kind -of drink, so used, helpeth digestion, and procureth -alacrity.”</p> - -<p>Anthony à Wood says that the first coffee-house was -kept in 1650 in Oxford, by Jacobs, a Jew; and it -seems generally recognised that the first coffee-house -in London was opened in St. Michael’s Alley, Cornhill,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_307"></a>[307]</span> -in 1652, by one Pasqua Rosee, a Greek, servant -to Mr. Edwards, a Turkey merchant. In “A Broadside -against <span class="smcap">Coffee</span>, or the Marriage of the Turk” -(1672), he is thus mentioned:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“A Coachman was the first (here) <i>Coffee</i> made,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And ever since the rest <i>drive on</i> the trade;</div> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>Me no good Engalash!</i> and sure enough,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">He plaid the Quack to salve his Stygian stuff;</div> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>Ver boon for de stomach, de Cough, de Ptisick</i>,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And I believe him, for it looks like Physick.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Here is Rosee’s handbill:—</p> - -<div class="blockquote"> - -<p class="center">“<span class="smcap">The Vertue of the Coffee Drink.</span></p> - -<p>“First publiquely made and sold in England, by -<i>Pasqua Rosee</i>.</p> - -<p>“The grain or berry called <i>Coffee</i>, groweth upon -little Trees, only in the <i>Deserts of Arabia</i>.</p> - -<p>“It is brought from thence, and drunk generally -throughout all the Grand Seignior’s Dominions.</p> - -<p>“It is a simple innocent thing, composed into a -Drink, by being dryed in an Oven, and ground to -Powder, and boiled up with Spring water, and about -half a pint of it to be drunk, fasting an hour before, -and not Eating an hour after, and to be taken as hot -as possibly can be endured; the which will never fetch -the skin off the mouth, or raise any Blisters, by reason -of that Heat.</p> - -<p>“The Turks drink at Meals and other times, is -usually <i>Water</i>, and their Dyet consists much of <i>Fruit</i>; -the <i>Crudities</i> whereof are very much corrected by this -Drink.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_308"></a>[308]</span></p> - -<p>“The quality of this Drink is Cold and Dry; and -though it be a Dryer, yet it neither <i>heats</i>, nor <i>inflames</i> -more than <i>hot Posset</i>.</p> - -<p>“It so closeth the Orifice of the Stomack, and fortifies -the heat within, that it’s very good to help -digestion; and therefore of great use to be taken -about 3 or 4 o’clock afternoon, as well as in the morning.</p> - -<p>“It much quickens the <i>Spirits</i>, and makes the Heart -<i>Lightsome</i>.</p> - -<p>“It is good against sore Eys, and the better if you -hold your Head over it, and take in the Steem that -way.</p> - -<p>“It suppresseth Fumes exceedingly, and therefore -good against the <i>Head-ach</i>, and will very much stop -any <i>Defluxion of Rheums</i> that distil from the <i>Head</i> -upon the <i>Stomack</i>, and so prevent and help <i>Consumptions</i>, -and the <i>Cough of the Lungs</i>.</p> - -<p>“It is excellent to prevent and cure the <i>Dropsy</i>, <i>Gout</i> -and <i>Scurvy</i>.</p> - -<p>“It is known by experience to be better than any -other Drying Drink for <i>People in years</i>, or <i>Children</i> -that have any <i>running humors</i> upon them, as <i>the -King’s Evil</i>, etc.</p> - -<p>“It is very good to prevent <i>Mis-carryings in -Child-bearing Women</i>.</p> - -<p>“It is a most excellent remedy against the <i>Spleen</i>, -<i>Hypocondriack Winds</i>, or the like.</p> - -<p>“It will prevent <i>Drowsiness</i>, and make one fit for -busines, if one have occasion to <i>Watch</i>; and therefore -you are not to drink of it <i>after Supper</i>, unless you<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_309"></a>[309]</span> -intend to be <i>watchful</i>, for it will hinder sleep for three -or four hours.</p> - -<p>“<i>It is observed that in Turkey, where this is generally -drunk, that they are not trobled with the Stone, Gout, -Dropsie, or Scurvey, and that their Skins are exceeding -cleer and white.</i></p> - -<p>“It is neither <i>Laxative</i> nor <i>Restringente</i>.</p> - -<p>“Made and Sold in <i>St. Michael’s Alley</i> in -<i>Cornhill</i>, by <i>Pasqua Rosee</i>, at the Signe of -his own Head.”</p> - -</div> - -<p>That it met with opposition at its introduction, we -have already seen in “A Broadside against Coffee;” -but Hatton, in his “New View of London,” 1708, -gives a case of clear persecution. “I find it Recorded -that one <i>James Farr</i>, a barber, who kept the Coffee -House which is now the <i>Rainbow</i>, was, in the year -1657, presented by the Inquest of St. Dunstan’s in -the W. for Making and Selling a sort of Liquor, called -Coffee, as a great Nusance and Prejudice of the neighbourhood, -etc. And who would then have thought -London would ever have had near 3000 such Nusances, -and that Coffee should have been, as now, so much -Drank by the best of Quality and Physicians.”<a id="FNanchor_143" href="#Footnote_143" class="fnanchor">[143]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 475px;"> -<img src="images/illus60.jpg" width="475" height="700" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>The coffee houses soon became popular, because -they filled a social want. There were no clubs, as we -know them, although there were limited social gatherings, -under the name of club, held at stated periods—and -the coffee house provided a convenient place for -gossip and news. Here were served alcoholic drinks<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_310"></a>[310]</span> -as well as coffee; here the newspapers might be seen; -here, also, men could indulge in a pipe, and its advantages -are well summed up by Misson,<a id="FNanchor_144" href="#Footnote_144" class="fnanchor">[144]</a> who<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_311"></a>[311]</span> -travelled in England in the reign of William and -Mary. “These Houses, which are very numerous in -London, are extreamly convenient. You have all -Manner of News there; You have a good Fire, which -you may sit by as long as you please; You have a dish -of Coffee, you meet your Friends for the Transaction -of Business, and all for a Penny, if you don’t care to -spend more.”</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse center">“THE RULES AND ORDERS OF THE COFFEE-HOUSE.<a id="FNanchor_145" href="#Footnote_145" class="fnanchor">[145]</a></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“<i>Enter Sirs, freely, But first, if you please,</i></div> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>Peruse our Civil-Orders, which are these.</i></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“First, Gentry, Tradesmen, all are welcome hither,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And may, without Affront, sit down Together:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Pre-eminence of Place, none here should Mind,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">But take the next fit Seat that he can find:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Nor need any, if Finer Persons come,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Rise up for to assigne to them his Room;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To limit Men’s Expence, we think not fair,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">But let him forfeit Twelve pence that shall Swear;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">He that shall any Quarrel here begin,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Shall give each Man a Dish t’ Atone the Sin;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And so shall he, whose Complements extend</div> - <div class="verse indent0">So far to drink in <span class="smcap">Coffee</span> to his Friend;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Let Noise of loud Disputes be quite forborn,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">No Maudlin Lovers here in Corners Mourn:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">But all be Brisk, and Talk, but not too much;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">On Sacred things, Let none presume to touch,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Nor Profane Scripture, or sawcily wrong</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Affairs of State with an Irreverent Tongue:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Let mirth be Innocent, and each Man see,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">That all his Jests without Reflection be;</div><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_312"></a>[312]</span> - <div class="verse indent0">To keep the House more Quiet, and from Blame,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">We Banish hence Cards, Dice and every Game:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Nor can allow of Wagers, that Exceed</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Five Shillings, which, oft-times, much Trouble Breed;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Let all that’s Lost or Forfeited be spent</div> - <div class="verse indent0">In such Good Liquor as the House doth Vent,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And Customers endeavour to their Powers,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">For to observe still seasonable Howers.</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Lastly, Let each Man what he calls for <i>Pay</i>,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">And so you’re welcome to come every Day.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>To know of coffee-houses in their prime, we must -turn to the pages of Addison and Steele, to the <i>Guardian</i>, -the <i>Spectator</i>, the <i>Tatler</i>, etc., but they are well -epitomised in the following poem, which bears date -1667:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse center">“NEWS FROM THE COFFEE-HOUSE.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“In which is shewn their several sorts of Passions,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Containing Newes from all our Neighbour <i>Nations</i>.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse center">“<span class="smcap">A Poem.</span></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“You that delight in Wit and Mirth,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">And long to hear such News,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">As comes from all Parts of the <i>Earth</i>,</div> - <div class="verse indent2"><i>Dutch</i>, <i>Danes</i>, and <i>Turks</i>, and <i>Jews</i>,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">I’le send yee to a Rendezvouz,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Where it is smoaking new;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Go, hear it at a <i>Coffee-house</i>,</div> - <div class="verse indent2"><i>It cannot but be true</i>.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">There Battles and Sea-Fights are Fought,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">And bloudy Plots display’d;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">They know more things than ’ere was thought</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Or ever was betray’d:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">No Money in the Minting House</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Is halfe so Bright and New;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And, comming from a <i>Coffee-House</i></div> - <div class="verse indent2"><i>It cannot but be true</i>.</div><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_313"></a>[313]</span> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">Before the <i>Navyes</i> fall to Work,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">They know who shall be Winner;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">They there can tell ye what the <i>Turk</i></div> - <div class="verse indent2">Last Sunday had to Dinner;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Who last did cut <i>Du Ruitter’s</i> Corns,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Amongst his jovial Crew;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Or Who first gave the <i>Devil</i> Horns.</div> - <div class="verse indent2"><i>Which cannot but be true.</i></div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">A <i>Fisherman</i> did boldly tell,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">And strongly did avouch,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">He Caught a Shoal of Mackarel,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">That Parley’d all in <i>Dutch</i>,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And cry’d out, <i>Yaw, yaw, yaw, Myne Here</i>;</div> - <div class="verse indent2">But as the Draught they Drew,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">They Struck for fear that <i>Monck</i> was there,</div> - <div class="verse indent2"><i>Which cannot but be true</i>.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">Another Swears by both his Ears,</div> - <div class="verse indent2"><i>Mounsieur</i> will cut our Throats;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">The <i>French King</i> will a Girdle bring,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Made of Flat-bottom’d Boats;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Shall compas <i>England</i> round about,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Which must not be a few,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">To give our <i>Englishmen</i> the Rout;</div> - <div class="verse indent2"><i>This sounds as if ’twere true</i>.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">There’s nothing done in all the World,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">From <i>Monarch</i> to the <i>Mouse</i>,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">But every Day or Night ’tis hurl’d</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Into the <i>Coffee-house</i>.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">What <i>Lillie</i> or what <i>Booker</i> can</div> - <div class="verse indent2">By Art, not bring about</div> - <div class="verse indent0">At <i>Coffee-house</i> you’l find a Man,</div> - <div class="verse indent2"><i>Can quickly find it out</i>.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">They’l tell ye there, what Lady-ware,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Of late is grown too light;</div><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_314"></a>[314]</span> - <div class="verse indent0">What Wise-man shall from Favour Fall,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">What Fool shall be a Knight;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">They’l tell ye when our Fayling Trade</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Shall Rise again, and Flourish,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Or when <i>Jack Adams</i> shall be made</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Church-Warden of the Parish.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">They know who shall in Times to come,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Be either made or undone,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">From great <i>St. Peter’s-street</i> in <i>Rome</i>,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">To <i>Turnbull-street</i> in <i>London</i>.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And likewise tell, in <i>Clerkenwell</i>,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">What w⸺ hath greatest Gain,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And in that place, what Brazen-face</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Doth wear a Golden Chain.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">At Sea their knowledge is so much,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">They know all Rocks and Shelves,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">They know all Councils of the <i>Dutch</i>,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">More than they know Themselves.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Who ’tis shall get the best at last,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">They perfectly can shew</div> - <div class="verse indent0">At <i>Coffee-house</i>, when they are plac’d</div> - <div class="verse indent2"><i>You’d scarce believe it true</i>.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">They know all that is Good, or Hurt,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">To Dam ye, or to Save ye;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">There is the <i>Colledge</i> and the <i>Court</i>,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">The <i>Country</i>, <i>Camp</i>, and <i>Navie</i>;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">So great a <i>Vniversitie</i></div> - <div class="verse indent2">I think there ne’re was any;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">In which you may a Schoolar be</div> - <div class="verse indent2">For spending of a Penny.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">A <i>Merchant’s Prentice</i> there shall show</div> - <div class="verse indent2">You all and every thing,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">What hath been done, and is to do,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">’Twix <i>Holland</i> and the <i>King</i>;</div><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_315"></a>[315]</span> - <div class="verse indent0">What <i>Articles</i> of <i>Peace</i> will bee</div> - <div class="verse indent2">He can precisely show,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">What will be good for <i>Them</i> or <i>Wee</i>,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">He perfectly doth know.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">Here Men do talk of every Thing,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">With large and liberal Lungs,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Like Women at a Gossiping,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">With double tyre of Tongues;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">They’l give a Broad-side presently,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Soon as you are in view,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">With Stories that you’l wonder at,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Which they will swear are true.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">The Drinking there of <i>Chockolat</i>,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Can make a <i>Fool</i> a <i>Sophie</i>,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">’Tis thought the <i>Turkish Mahomet</i></div> - <div class="verse indent2">Was first Inspir’d with Coffee:</div> - <div class="verse indent0">By which his Powers did Over-flow</div> - <div class="verse indent2">The Land of <i>Palestine</i>;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Then let us to the <i>Coffee-house</i> go,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">’Tis Cheaper farr than Wine.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">You shall know there, what Fashions are;</div> - <div class="verse indent2">How Perrywiggs are Curl’d;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And for a Penny you shall heare</div> - <div class="verse indent2">All Novells in the World.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Both Old and Young, and Great and Small,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">And Rich and Poore, you’ll see;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Therefore let’s to the <i>Coffee</i> all,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Come All away with Mee. <i>Finis.</i>”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p class="right">J. A.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_316"></a>[316]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header25.jpg" width="500" height="225" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>Different Sorts of Coffee—Its Enemies—Its Composition and Treatment—Methods -of Making—Adulterations—Liberian Coffee—Date -Coffee and other Substitutes.</p> - -</div> - -<p>There are about twenty-two species of coffee, -seven of them belonging to Asia, and fifteen to -Africa, where it grows in districts widely apart, as in -Angola and on the shores of the Victoria Nyanza; -yet, although it is so widely disseminated, and comes -from so many different places, it is getting commercially -dearer without any present prospect of any -reduction. Its value in the market is as follows—the -first being the highest, and the last the lowest in price. -Mocha, Jamaica, Ceylon, Honduras, Mysore, Costa -Rica, Guatemala, Brazil, New Grenada, and divers -East Indian growths; and its consumption per head -in Europe, ranks thus: Holland, Denmark, Germany, -Belgium, Norway, Switzerland, Sweden, France, -Austria, Greece, Great Britain, Italy and Russia.</p> - -<p>Unfortunately the coffee plant has its enemies, in -the shape of two fungi which have devastated the -plantations of Ceylon and Mysore, one the <i>Hemileia<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_317"></a>[317]</span> -Vastata</i>, and the other the <i>Pellicularia Kolerota</i>, -whilst an insect called the coffee bug (<i>Lecanium Coffeæ</i>) -causes great destruction, as does also the coffee, or -Golunda rat. Indeed, these enemies so prevailed in -Ceylon as to render coffee growing not only unprofitable, -but almost impossible, so the planters took to -growing tea, with the good results which we have -seen.</p> - -<p>Raw coffee has very little scent, and a bitter taste, -and no one would credit it with the delicious aroma -which is developed—like the tea leaf—by roasting, an -operation which increases the bulk of the berry, whilst -diminishing its weight. Its commercial value is in proportion -to its aroma; and it is found that, by keeping -the raw berry, a chemical change takes place, which -very much improves inferior qualities. But this aroma -is extremely volatile, and ground coffee should be kept -in scrupulously air-tight cases. Indeed, so fugitive is -it, that coffee to be drank in perfection should be made -from berries roasted freshly every day, as is frequently -done in France.</p> - -<p>Raw coffee contains an astringent acid, which does -not stain iron black, like that of tea, but green; and it -also embodies Theine, or, as it is called when applied to -coffee, <i>Caffeine</i>. This alkaloid does not exist in large -quantities as in tea, <i>i.e.</i>, the drinker of an equal number -of cups of both beverages would have less of the -alkaloid if coffee was drunk.</p> - -<p>The berries, when roasted, and their flavour developed, -are ground—coarse or fine according to taste, -and are then ready to be made into a drink. It is<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_318"></a>[318]</span> -here, in conjunction with the use of stale, and consequently, -tasteless coffee, that we, in England, go to -grief. Of coffee-making machines there are numbers; -but if pure coffee is used, they might as well be dispensed -with, whilst they are almost necessary if the -coffee is adulterated. Another thing that our English -housekeepers do not understand is, that coffee, in -order to be productive of a good result, should be -used large-handedly and generously, and not according -to the time-honoured, grandmotherly, but parsimonious -method applied to tea, of a teaspoonful for each person -and one for the pot. The allowance of freshly ground -coffee should be from 1½ to 2 oz. per pint of water, -and any less does not make coffee, but only “water -bewitched.”</p> - -<p>With this quantity excellent coffee can be made -without the aid of any machine. Warm the coffee -pot, or jug, put in the coffee, and then add the water, -which, as with tea, should just have come to the boil, -and after standing a little time, the coffee is fit to -drink. If the coffee is boiled, the extremely volatile -aroma is dissipated, and its exquisite flavour lost.</p> - -<p>But a good way of making coffee is to make it over -night. Put the coffee in a jug, and pour cold water -on it. The lighter particles soon get soaked and fall -to the bottom. In the morning it has only to be -warmed until it just boils, when it should be strained -and served at once. This only applies to <i>pure</i> coffee.</p> - -<p>There are too many adulterants used, and what -“French Coffee” and “Coffee as in France” is made -of, the Lord and their manufacturers only know. The<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_319"></a>[319]</span> -chief of these offenders in England is the root of the -succory, chicory, or wild endive (<i>Cichorium Intybus</i>), -which, originally wild, is now extensively cultivated in -England; whilst on the Continent it is very largely -grown in France, Germany, Belgium, and Holland, -and both home-grown and foreign chicory are largely -in our market, the latter fetching the higher price. It -does not taste like coffee, nor has it any aroma; but, -when roasted, it gives a dark colour to water, and -a bitter taste, as if a great deal of coffee had been -used; and for this purpose it must have been first -used in the old coffee-houses. But it is a question -whether you buy pure roasted and ground chicory. -In Germany it is adulterated largely with turnips and -carrots, whilst Venetian red is used to give it a colour.</p> - -<p>Notice has already been made of the different kinds -of coffee, but not the West African species—the Liberian -coffee (<i>Coffea Liberica</i>)—which has not, as yet, -come into common use in England. There are many -substitutes for coffee, one of which developed a few -years since into a large commercial undertaking, but -eventually collapsed. It was Date Coffee, made out -of date stones roasted and ground. Among other -substances used in lieu of coffee, are the roasted seeds -of the yellow water-lily (<i>Iris pseudocorus</i>); the seeds -of a <i>Goumelia</i>, called in Turkey <i>Keuguel</i>; roasted -acorns and beans, chick peas, rye and other grains, -nuts, almonds, and dandelion roots (<i>Leontodon taraxacum</i>), -whilst in Africa many berries are used in its -stead.</p> - -<p class="right">J. A.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_320"></a>[320]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 325px;"> -<img src="images/header26.jpg" width="325" height="500" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="COCOA">COCOA.</h3> - -<p>Where Cocoa is Grown—Its Manufacture—Its Use Abroad and in -England—Cocoa as a Drink—Chocolate, Edible and Otherwise—Substitutes -for Cocoa.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Linnæus was so fond of the drink made -from the seeds of this plant that he gave it the -name of <i>Cacao Theobroma</i>, or “Food of the Gods.”</p> - -<p>As a drink it cannot be classed among the infusions, -like tea, nor is it roasted and ground to powder like -coffee; but the seeds are crushed and mealed in a -mill, and from this oily meal is made the thin gruel -which we drink as cocoa.</p> - -<p>It seems to have been originally a native of Mexico, -and is now cultivated there, in Honduras, Guatemala, -Nicaragua, Brazil, Peru, Ecuador, New Granada,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_321"></a>[321]</span> -Venezuela, Guiana, and most of the West India -Islands. Commercially the different sorts rank in -value as follow: Trinidad, Caraccas, Grenada, Guayaquil, -Surinam, Bahia, Ceylon, and British West -Indies.</p> - -<p>It grows, as we see in the illustration, somewhat -like a melon, which contains some fifty or more seeds, -in rows embedded in a spongy substance, from which -the seeds are cleansed and then dried in the sun, -when it becomes brittle and of a dark colour internally, -eating like an oily nut, but with a decidedly bitter -and somewhat astringent taste. To render it fit for -food, it is gently roasted to develop the aroma, allowed -to cool, deprived of its husk, and then crushed into -small fragments called cocoa nibs, which is the purest -form in which it is used, but also the one which entails -the greatest trouble in making a drink therefrom. The -granulated, rock, flake, and soluble cocoas are made -by the beans being ground into a paste in a rolling -mill; starch, flour, sugar, and other ingredients being -used, according to the taste of different manufacturers.</p> - -<p>It was used by the Mexicans and Peruvians before -their conquest by the Spaniards, and formed an article -of barter among them. Columbus brought a knowledge -of it to Europe; but those were not the days -of non-alcoholic drinks, and it was some time before it -came into vogue. Naturally, first of all in Spain, and -to this day Spain is the greatest European consumer -of cocoa in some shape or other. It was introduced -into England about the same time as tea and coffee, -but the chocolate houses, pure and simple, as such,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_322"></a>[322]</span> -were very few compared to the coffee houses. It was -taxed as a drink by the same Acts as tea, and paid -the same duty. In the eighteenth century it became -a fashionable morning drink, especially for ladies, and -is perpetually alluded to by the essayists; but it was -so expensive as to be only a drink for the upper -classes.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus61.jpg" width="500" height="450" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">CHOCOLATE DRINKING.</p> -</div> - -<p>Cocoa as a drink is far more nutritious than either -tea or coffee, and like those two substances it has a -volatile oil which gives the delicious aroma, and an -active principle resembling Theine or Caffeine—but not -identical with them—called <i>Theobromine</i>. It has no -tannic acid, but it has what the other two do not<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_323"></a>[323]</span> -possess, it has a peculiar fatty matter, known as cocoa -butter, which sometimes amounts to half the contents -of the seed. It is this excess of fat which renders it -liable to disagree with some susceptible stomachs, but -the mixture of farinaceous matter and sugar tend in a -great measure to obviate this inconvenience.</p> - -<p>In another method of manufacture it is known as -Chocolate, which is simply the cocoa bean ground and -flavoured with sugar, vanilla, almonds, cinnamon, or -what not, according to taste. It is in a dry form the -most popular of sweetmeats, although the adulterations -practised by low class firms, in order to sell a cheap -article, are many, owing to its high price; yet the -goods of first-rate firms like Menier, Fry, Cadbury, -and others, may be taken without suspicion, and -are—good!!!</p> - -<p>There are pseudo cocoas, as there are pseudo coffees -and teas. The Guarana, or Brazilian Cocoa (<i>Paullina -sorbilis</i>); a ground nut, the <i>Arachis hypogeia</i>, used in -South Carolina, Angola, and elsewhere; the <i>Cyperus -esculentus</i>, or earth chestnut, in Spain, are the chief -substitutes; but it is needless to say that none compare -with the <span class="smcap">Theobroma</span>. Alas! that it should be -adulterated.</p> - -<p class="right">J. A.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/footer12.jpg" width="500" height="150" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_324"></a>[324]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header27.jpg" width="500" height="175" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="AERATED_DRINKS">AËRATED DRINKS.</h3> - -<p>Ginger Beer—Old and New Methods of Manufacture—Lemonade—Chemicals -in Non-Alcoholic Drinks—Fruit Syrups—Non-Alcoholic -Cordials and Liquors—Natural Mineral Waters—Their -Constituents—Artificial Aërated Waters—Their Introduction -into England—Manufacture.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Popular among non-intoxicant drinks is the -homely Ginger Beer, so dearly beloved of thirsty -holiday makers and small children; dear also to the -boating man in connection with good ale, as “Shandy-gaff.” -And the stone bottle, in which it used generally -to be encased, is familiar to every reader. We -say, advisedly, <i>used</i>, because now-a-days it is also put -up in glass bottles; nay, it is sold in casks, like beer, -to the publicans and others. The probability is that, -in the old days, its somewhat murky colour would not -bear inspection through bright glass. The old ginger -beer, whose flavour cannot be approached by the -modern decoctions, was made of Jamaica ginger macerated -in water, with the addition of lemon juice and -sugar. It was allowed to ferment, and possessed -decided traces of alcohol. It was made after this -fashion:—</p> - -<p>Take 1 ounce of best Jamaica ginger, and crush<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_325"></a>[325]</span> -thoroughly with a hammer or suitable crushing machine; -boil gently for about an hour in about a quart -of water, then add 1 lb. of best loaf sugar, and make -up to a gallon with hot water; stir until all is dissolved. -Add a small quantity of the soluble essence -of lemon, and gum extract, the quantity to be regulated -to taste of the maker. Then stir in ¼ ounce of -tartaric acid, and, if required for quick fermentation, a -very small quantity of yeast. The beer should fine -down perfectly clear, and should then be bottled. In -from one to three weeks time it is ready for drinking, -and should keep good about six months.</p> - -<p>This was the old fashion—now for the new.<a id="FNanchor_146" href="#Footnote_146" class="fnanchor">[146]</a></p> - -<table summary="Recipe" class="smaller"> - <tr> - <td>Plain Syrup, from 56° to 60° T.<a id="FNanchor_147" href="#Footnote_147" class="fnanchor">[147]</a></td> - <td class="tdr">3</td> - <td>quarts</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Boiling Water</td> - <td class="tdr">1</td> - <td>quart</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Oil of Lemon</td> - <td class="tdr">24</td> - <td>minims</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Acetic Acid</td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - <td>fluid ounces</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Ginger Tincture (21, 22, or 23), Q.S.<a id="FNanchor_148" href="#Footnote_148" class="fnanchor">[148]</a></td> - <td class="tdr"></td> - <td></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class="center smaller">Use 1 to 1½ ounce of the flavoured spirit to each bottle.</p> - -<p>First incorporate the lemon oil with 1 quart of the -thick syrup. (If the oil contains a large proportion of -insoluble matter, it may be well to use rather less than -1 quart of syrup in the first place.) Then add the -boiling water, and, after that, the remaining syrup; -taking care to keep the mixture constantly agitated -during the process.</p> - -<p>Lastly, add the acid, and ginger tincture according -to taste, or the requirements of the public analyst.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_326"></a>[326]</span></p> - -<p>By adding boiling <i>syrup</i> instead of boiling water to -the mixture of plain syrup and oil of lemon, and subsequently -adding the required quantity of cold water, -the whole operation will be brought more thoroughly -under control, and a larger proportion of oil may be -employed without waste. With some samples of the -oil, it may be necessary to heat a larger portion of the -syrup; but the oil should always be mixed with <i>cold</i>, -<i>thick</i> syrup in the first place, unless a perfectly <i>close</i>, -<i>air-tight vessel</i> is provided for mixing; in this case, -hot, thick syrup may be poured on the oil, cold -water being subsequently added to give the requisite -density.</p> - -<p>When it is required to incorporate a maximum -quantity of lemon oil with the syrup, it should first be -whisked into the <i>whole</i> of the thick syrup <i>cold</i>; the -flavoured syrup should then be carefully heated by -means of a steam jacket, or other convenient arrangement, -until the suspended oil is reduced to a state of -solution. The syrup will then be transparent. Let -it be cooled again as quickly as possible.</p> - -<p class="center"><i>Gingerade.</i></p> - -<table summary="Recipe" class="smaller"> - <tr> - <td>Plain Syrup, 42° T.<a id="FNanchor_149" href="#Footnote_149" class="fnanchor">[149]</a></td> - <td class="tdr">1</td> - <td>gallon</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Ginger Tincture (No. 21 or 22)</td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - <td>fluid ounces</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Acetic Acid</td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Bitter Orange Tincture, Q.S.</td> - <td class="tdr"></td> - <td></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class="center smaller">Use 1 to 1½ ounce of flavoured syrup to each bottle.</p> - -<p>Ginger Ale is a beverage supposed to beguile the -artless teetotaller into an idea that he is doing something<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_327"></a>[327]</span> -naughty, or at all events, placing himself on the -very verge of tampering with the accursed thing -“Beer.” Hence its name, but what a difference in -the two drinks! Here are two receipts for making</p> - -<p class="center"><i>Ginger Ale.</i></p> - -<table summary="Recipe" class="smaller"> - <tr> - <td>Plain Syrup, 42° T.</td> - <td class="tdr">1</td> - <td>gallon</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Comp. Ginger Tincture (No. 23)</td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - <td>fluid ounces</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Acetic Acid</td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Sugar Colouring</td> - <td class="tdr">½</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class="center">Or</p> - -<table summary="Recipe" class="smaller"> - <tr> - <td>Plain Syrup, 42° T.</td> - <td class="tdr">1</td> - <td>gallon</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Ginger Tincture (No. 21 or 22)</td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - <td>fluid ounces</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Capsicum Tincture (No. 24)</td> - <td class="tdr">1</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Sugar Colouring</td> - <td class="tdr">½</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class="center smaller">Use 1 to 1½ ounce of flavoured syrup to each bottle.</p> - -<p>If desired, the <i>bouquet</i> may be enriched by the use -of one or more of the following ingredients:—</p> - -<table summary="Recipe" class="smaller"> - <tr> - <td>Essence of Vanilla</td> - <td class="tdr">3</td> - <td>drams (180 minims)</td> - <td>per gallon</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Butyric Ether</td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - <td>minims</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Otto of Roses</td> - <td class="tdr">⅓</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>Half an ounce of Spanish liquorice to the gallon will -considerably improve the flavour.</p> - -<p class="center"><i>Lemonade.</i></p> - -<table summary="Recipe" class="smaller"> - <tr> - <td>Plain Syrup, 42° T.</td> - <td class="tdr">1</td> - <td>gallon</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Lemon Tincture (No. 19)</td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - <td>fluid ounces</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Acetic Acid</td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - <td>to 5 <span class="ditto">”</span></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class="center smaller">Use 1½ ounce of flavoured syrup to each bottle.</p> - -<p>When lemonade is required specially for medicinal -purposes, and is sold expressly as a genuine fruit preparation, -citric acid should be employed instead of -acetic. In that case dissolve 1 lb. of citric acid in a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_328"></a>[328]</span> -pint of boiling water, and use 4 fluid ounces of the -clear solution to each gallon of syrup.</p> - -<p>Some manufacturers have attained a high reputation -for their lemonade by adding a small quantity of -<i>Neroli</i><a id="FNanchor_150" href="#Footnote_150" class="fnanchor">[150]</a> to the ordinary syrup. This, if judiciously -used, will doubtless be deemed an improvement by -connoisseurs generally, provided they are kept in -ignorance of the substance employed; but a still -greater improvement is produced by adding about -1 fluid ounce of good <i>orange flower water</i> to each -gallon of syrup.</p> - -<p>In the next beverage we are perilously tempting the -fiend Alcohol, although it ranks as a Temperance -drink.</p> - -<p class="center"><i>Champagne Cyder.</i></p> - -<table summary="Recipe" class="smaller"> - <tr> - <td>Plain Syrup, 42° T.</td> - <td class="tdr">1</td> - <td>gallon</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Butyrate of Ethyl<a id="FNanchor_151" href="#Footnote_151" class="fnanchor">[151]</a></td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - <td>minims</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Acetate of Amyl<a id="FNanchor_152" href="#Footnote_152" class="fnanchor">[152]</a></td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - <td><span class="ditto">”</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Nitrate of Amyl</td> - <td class="tdr">2</td> - <td><span class="ditto">”</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Acetic Acid</td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - <td>or 5 fluid ounces</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Sugar Colouring</td> - <td class="tdr">1</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p class="center smaller">Use 1 to 1½ fluid ounces of this syrup to each bottle.</p> - -<p>But here is a direction which plainly shows the -cloven hoof.</p> - -<p>“The Ethyl and Amyl compounds are conveniently -used by mixing them separately in the first place with -nine times their bulk of Alcohol, or strong rectified -spirit, adding these mixtures to the Acetic Acid, and -this in turn to the syrup.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_329"></a>[329]</span></p> - -<p>At every turn, in all these drinks, are chemicals -used. Do you want the flavour of the luscious -Jargonelle pear? hey, presto! There it is for you -in a spirituous solution of Acetate of Amyl, made by -distilling potato spirit with Oil of Vitrol and Acetate -of Potash, at least this gives a fine fruity flavour, but to -bring out the true Jargonelle taste it must be mixed -with six times its bulk of spirits of wine (<i>Mem. for -Teetotallers</i>). The taste of apples can be counterfeited -by mixing Amylic Ether (potato ether) and -Valerianic Acid, which latter is made by substituting -Bichromate of Potash for Acetate of Potash, and -largely added Alcohol. The delicious aroma of the -Pine-apple is made from Butyric Acid, mixed with -ordinary ether, and dissolved in Alcohol. Indeed -with compounds of the Ethyls, Methyls, and Amyls, -all the bouquets contained in wines or spirits can be -obtained.<a id="FNanchor_153" href="#Footnote_153" class="fnanchor">[153]</a></p> - -<p>Does your chemical compound look flat and dull -when poured out? lo! you can produce a “head,” or -froth, made out of isinglass, gum arabic, gelatine, -white of egg, Irish moss, or soapwort. The latter -gives an excellent head; but as these frothing -mixtures detract from the keeping of the chemical -drink, yet another chemical has to be used as an antiseptic, -and Salicylic Acid, made from Carbolic Acid, -is recommended. Do you want to colour your decoctions? -There is a wide range of tints for you to -choose from, from the harmless burnt sugar to the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_330"></a>[330]</span> -Acetate of Rosaniline, or Aniline Magenta, of which -1/30th of a grain will colour a bottleful, a beautiful red.</p> - -<p>For the fruit syrups, fruits are very often used, but -of course not necessarily. Even milk is not sacred -from the chemist. Here are two recipes for making -Cream Syrup:—</p> - -<p class="center">No. 1.</p> - -<table summary="Recipe" class="smaller"> - <tr> - <td>Fresh Cream</td> - <td class="tdr">½</td> - <td>pint</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Fresh Milk</td> - <td class="tdr">½</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Powdered Sugar</td> - <td class="tdr">1</td> - <td>pound</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>Another formula:—</p> - -<p class="center">No. 2.</p> - -<table summary="Recipe" class="smaller"> - <tr> - <td>Oil of Sweet Almonds</td> - <td class="tdr">2</td> - <td>ounces</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Powdered Gum Arabic</td> - <td class="tdr">2</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Water</td> - <td class="tdr">4</td> - <td class="tdc">”</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>Make an emulsion, and add simple syrup to make -up 2 pints, and there you are, thoroughly independent -of the cow!</p> - -<p>In these syrupy mixtures the Americans run riot, -and a few years since many shops, notably druggists, -sold strange and curious frothing mixtures; but there -was no call for them in the winter, and they died out -as suddenly as they were introduced. The following -is a fair list of syrups, some of which, however, are -decidedly exciseable. Ambrosia, Apple, Apricot, -Banana, Blackberry, Brandy, Capillaire, Cherry, -Chocolate, Citron, Clove, Coffee, Cream, Curaçoa, -Currant (black or red), Ginger, Grape, Groseille, Gum, -Lemon, Limes, Mulberry, Nectar, Nectarine, Noyeau, -Orange (bitter), Orange (sweet), Orange (Tangerine), -Orgeat, Peach, Pear, Peppermint, Pine-apple, Plum, -Quince, Raspberry, Roses, Sarsaparilla, Sherbet, -Strawberry, Vanilla, Violets.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_331"></a>[331]</span></p> - -<p>And here is a list of Non-Alcoholic Cordials and -Liqueurs (non-exciseable), it is said; but if so, they -must be fearfully and wonderfully made. Anisette, -Bitters, Caraway, Cherry Brandy, Clove, Curaçoa, -Elderette, Fettle, Ginger Brandy, Ginger Cordial, -Ginger Gin, Ginger Punch, Gingerette, Lemon Punch, -Lime Fruit, Nectar Punch, Noyeau, Orange Bitters, -Orange Gin, Peppermint, Pepper Punch, Pick-me-up, -Raspberry, Raspberry Punch, Rum Punch, Rum -Shrub, Sarsaparilla, Shrub, Spiced Ale, Strawberry, -Tangerine, Tonic, Winter Punch.</p> - -<p>But enough of these chemical concoctions of man; -let us go to Nature, and see what she turns out of -her laboratory. Most marvellous combinations of -Minerals, Acids, Gases, and Water. Among the -Minerals may be named Alumina, Arsenic, Barium, -Boron, Bromine, Cæsium, Calcium, Copper, Fluorine, -Iodine, Iron, Lithium, Magnesium, Manganese, -Phosphorus, Potassium, Rubidium, Silicon, Sodium, -Strontium, Sulphur, Zinc, etc. And of Gases we -have Ammonia, Carbonic Acid, Hydrogen, Hydro-Sulphuric, -Nitrogen, and Oxygen. These materials -are mixed in very varying amounts, and from very -valuable medical agencies, from the purgative -Friedrichshall, to the nauseous Harrogate. But all -are not nasty: some are just sufficiently alkaline to be -tasty, and, having a briskness imparted to them either -naturally, or otherwise, by carbonic acid, make -pleasant drinks for table.</p> - -<p>These simple waters are abundant on the Continent. -In Germany we have the well-known Apollinaris,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_332"></a>[332]</span> -Selters, Landskro, Brückenau, Roisdorf, Gieshübel, -and Heppingen, whilst in France there are those of -St. Galmier, Chateldon, and Pougues, besides some -in Italy and many in America.</p> - -<p>These, especially the medical waters, are imported -into England; but mineral waters are largely manufactured. -By mineral waters I do not mean the -aërated waters we drink under the names of Soda, and -Seltzer, but the medicinal waters.</p> - -<p>The effervescing, or aërated waters, which are now -so much used all over the civilized world, were -first made on a large commercial scale by the firm of -J. Schweppe, of Geneva (a name very well known in -England, in connection with the manufacture), in -1789; and ten years afterwards, his partner, Mr. N. -Paul (whose name yet survives in the firm Paul & -Burrows, St. George’s Road, S.E.), established an -Aërated Water Factory in England. It is somewhat -curious how the names last in this trade, for in 1799 a -Mr. Thwaites established a factory in Dublin, and the -firm still remains as A. & R. Thwaites & Co.</p> - -<p>Since its introduction, aërated water has much improved, -especially the universal soda water, which is -simply ordinary water charged with carbonic acid -gas. Vastly improved machinery has been introduced, -cleanliness and purity of materials are specially looked -after, and the bottles and vessels for holding it -wonderfully improved. We have not, in England, -taken so kindly to the syphon as they have abroad; -but the cork in the bottle has been nearly entirely done -away with, and we are no longer compelled to pay for,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_333"></a>[333]</span> -if we could not drink, the large bottle, which at one -time bid fair to be perennial; but which has almost -succumbed to its younger brother the “Small” Soda. -Year by year, through competition and vastly increased -consumption, aërated waters are getting cheaper, and -consequently more used.</p> - -<p>The ordinary soda water of commerce contains no -soda,—it is made by the absorption, under pressure, of -carbonic acid gas, which is generally obtained from -chalk or whitening, and sulphuric acid, which makes -as good a gas for commercial purposes as if it were -produced from the purest Carrara marble.</p> - -<p>The number of chemical teetotal drinks is legion. -They are all calculated according to their concocter’s -reports, to make the drinker healthier and wiser; nay, -even to provide him with extra brain power, as did -the vaunted Zoedone, which contained phosphates and -iron. They have their little day, and another nostrum -takes their place. It has, hitherto, always been so, -and probably will continue, only intensified, to the end -of time.</p> - -<p class="right">J. A.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> -<img src="images/footer13.jpg" width="300" height="275" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_334"></a>[334]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header28.jpg" width="500" height="150" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="MILK">MILK.</h3> - -<p>First Food of all Mammals—Skim and Butter Milk—Chemicals -used in its Preservation—Condensed Milk—Syllabubs—Koumiss—Its -Early Use—When first utilized in Medical -Treatment—Koumiss from Cows’ Milk—Methods of Manufacture—Intoxicating -Drinks made from Milk.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Milk is the first liquid food taken by man, in -common with all mammals, after his birth; -and this liquid is so happily ordered, as to contain all -the elements of food necessary for him, at this period -of his existence. The new-born mammal naturally, -and directly after its birth, seeks the fountain of its -nourishment, and even that most helpless of all created -beings, a baby, is soon taught where to seek its food.</p> - -<p>But we have to consider milk as a beverage, more -than as a food, and, as a drink, it is comparatively a -failure, as to most people it is indigestible, if taken in -any quantity. It may, however, be taken with comparative -impunity as skim milk, <i>i.e.</i> when deprived to -a very large extent of its fat, and of a hot day, for a -perfect thirst quencher, let us commend slightly acidulated -butter milk. Milk has very great disadvantages -as a beverage: first, that it will not keep good any -time, unless chemicalized by salicylic acid, borax,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_335"></a>[335]</span> -liquor potassæ, or some other bedevilment, except as -condensed milk, which is milk with much of its water -evaporated, and sugar added. This, however good it -may be as a substitute for fresh cow’s milk, where such -is not attainable, can hardly be called a drink. Secondly, -milk, in common with all fatty animal substances, has -a tendency to absorb any odour which may come in -contact with it, and is a ready vehicle for the seeds of -disease, especially the microbes of fever or cholera.</p> - -<p>It is singular that milk has not been made into more -<i>drinks</i>. Of modern times we have soda and milk, or -aërated milk and water, and in the pastoral times of the -last century, the times of Corydon and Phyllis, Chloe -and Strephon, it was <i>de rigueur</i> to indulge in “syllabubs” -whenever the nearest approach to rurality, in the shape -of a grass field, and a cow, presented itself. Whoever -tastes a syllabub now? Ask fifty people—forty-nine at -least, will answer that they have never partaken of the -delicacy, and the vast majority will be totally ignorant -even of its composition. It was made of milk, milked -from the cow into a bowl containing mashed fruit, such -as gooseberries, and sugar, or else, wine or beer. The -great thing was to make it froth, as we may see in the -following recipe for an Ale Syllabub, which our forefathers -considered as the <i>ne plus ultra</i> of a syllabub.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“No Syllabubs made at the milking pail,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">But what are composed of a pot of good ale.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>“Place in a large bowl, a quart of strong ale or -beer, grate into this a little nutmeg, and sweeten with -sugar: milk the cow rapidly into the bowl, forcing the -milk as strongly as possible into the ale, and against<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_336"></a>[336]</span> -the sides of the vessel, to raise a good froth. Let it -stand an hour, and it will be fit for use. The proportion -of milk, or of sugar, will depend upon the taste -of the drinker, who will, after a trial or two, be able to -make a delightful beverage. Cider may be used instead -of malt liquor for those who object to the alcoholic -strength of the ale, or a bottle of wine.”</p> - -<p>The Dutch, who are naturally a pastoral people, -make a syllabub of milk, sugar, etc., which they call -<i>Slemp</i>; but this rustic delicacy has died out owing to -the universal use of tea and coffee. Curds and whey -used to be much drank, and white wine whey is not to -be despised when one has a very heavy cold—but, of -course, it can only be drank by the wicked and intemperate; -good people confining themselves to hot -milk, or treacle posset, either of which served the purpose -nearly as well. So, also, the unregenerate have -the solace of rum and milk in the early morning.</p> - -<p>We have now exhausted all the milk drinks we know -of, except “Koumiss,” which, although as old as the -hills, is of very modern introduction into civilization, -and comes to us heralded by a fanfare of medical -trumpets as a <i>panacea</i> for many evils which the human -body has to bear, especially consumption; but Koumiss -is decidedly alcoholic.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_337"></a>[337]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;"> -<img src="images/illus62.jpg" width="425" height="700" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_338"></a>[338]</span></p> - -<p>As a drink made from mare’s milk, it has been -known for centuries to the Tartars, Khurgese, and Calmucks -of the Russian Steppes, and Central and South -Western Asia. Perhaps the first mention of it may -be found in the <i>Ipatof Annals</i>, published at St. Petersburg, -1871. “In 1182, Prince Igor Seversky was<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_339"></a>[339]</span> -taken prisoner by the Polovtsky, and the captors got -so drunk upon Koumiss that they allowed their prisoner -to escape.” The old monk and traveller Gulielmus -de Rubruquis, who travelled in Tartary in the middle -of the thirteenth century, says: “The same evening, -the guide who had conducted us, gave us some <i>Cosmos</i>. -After I had drunk thereof, I sweat most extremely -from the dread and novelty, because I never drank of -it before. Notwithstanding I thought it very savoury -as indeed it was.” And in another place, he thus refers -to it: “Then they taste it, and being pretty sharp, -they drink it; for it biteth a man’s tongue like wine of -<i>raspes</i>,<a id="FNanchor_154" href="#Footnote_154" class="fnanchor">[154]</a> when it is drunk. After a man has taken a -draught thereof, it leaveth behind it a taste like that of -almond milk, and maketh one’s inside feel very comfortable; -and it also intoxicateth weak heads.” Ser -Marco Polo speaks of it. “Their drink is mare’s -milk, prepared in such a way, you would take it for a -white wine; and a right good drink it is, called by -them <i>Kemiz</i>.”</p> - -<p>It remained as a traveller’s curiosity until 1784, -when Dr. John Grieve, a surgeon, one of the many -Scotchmen who have from time to time entered the -Russian service, wrote to the Royal Society of Edinburgh -(who published his communication in their -“Transactions,” Vol. I., 1788). “An account of the -Method of making a Wine, called by the Tartars -Koumiss, with observations on its use in Medicine,” -and, especially, he thought that, “with the superaddition -of a fermented spirit, it might be of essential<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_340"></a>[340]</span> -service in all those disorders where the body is defective -either in nourishment or strength.” And he -further proved the benefit of the milk-wine on three -patients, two consumptive, and one syphilitic, sending -them to the Steppes among the Tartars, whence they -returned stout, and in perfect health. From time to -time, until the middle of this century, phthisical patients -were sent to Tartary to undergo this milk cure; but -life among these nomad tribes, with its filth and privations, -was hardly congenial to a sick man, so that -although some returned cured, others came back only -to die.</p> - -<p>But, in 1858, Dr. Postnikof started an establishment -for the cure of diseases by fermented mare’s -milk, at Samàra, in Eastern Russia, and a similar -establishment, about forty-five miles distant, was started -by the late Dr. Tchembulatof, both of which have -been extremely well patronised, as their places were -well ordered, and the Koumiss was prepared in a cleanly -manner. So successful were they, that the Russian -Government, in 1870, started a place of their own for -the cure of sick soldiers belonging to the Kazan -district. Here are beds for 100 soldiers and 20 officers.</p> - -<p>The curative effect of fermented mare’s milk set -people thinking whether the milk of cows, which is -much more easy to procure, would not answer the -same purpose. It was tried, and a new drink was -given to the civilized world, as also a new name, which -was coined expressly for it—<span class="smcap">Galazyene</span>, from γάλα, -milk, and ζῦμη, a ferment. It can be obtained in -London from the large dairies.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_341"></a>[341]</span></p> - -<p>Dr. Polubensky gives the following formula for -fermenting cow’s milk.</p> - -<p>“An oak churn, such as is used for churning butter, -has a bottle of fermented cow’s or mare’s milk, five -days old, poured into it in the morning. A tumbler -and a half of warm milk (of a temperature of about -90° Fahr.), in which half an ounce of cane, still -better milk, sugar has been dissolved, and a bottle of -skimmed cow’s milk, are then added.</p> - -<p>“The addition of the sugar is made for the purpose -of remedying the small amount of lactine in cow’s milk; -the water is added to make the milk, which is rich in -casein, thinner, and thus to facilitate its agitation and -emulsion. Skim milk is used because it contains less -fat, an excess of which interferes with fermentation. -The mixture is then beaten up during half an hour, to -prevent the curdling of the casein, and is then laid -aside for three hours. (This is effected at an ordinary -room temperature of 60° Fahr.)</p> - -<p>“After the lapse of three hours, when the surface of -the mixture is covered with a film (of casein and fat in -a non-emulsioned condition), it is again agitated for -half an hour, and another bottle of skim milk—with or -without warm water, according to the thickness of the -milk—is added; the whole mass is again churned for -an hour and a half, or longer, until the casein is well -divided, and small bubbles appear on the surface of -the fluid. Then the mixture, having stood for half an -hour, has a fresh bottle of milk added to it, and -the stirring is again renewed, with short intervals, -until the Koumiss is ready, which usually happens by<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_342"></a>[342]</span> -10 o’clock p.m., if its preparation was commenced at -8 a.m.</p> - -<p>“The approaching completion of the Koumiss is -known by a thick froth, which sometimes rises very -high, forming on its surface; while the full completion -of fermentation is recognised by a falling of the froth, -and by certain signs detectable by the ear and hand; -the process of churning becomes easier, and the splash -of the drops during agitation presents a clearer and -more metallic sound. The Koumiss is then poured -into Champagne bottles, well corked, and left for the -night at a room temperature of from 60° to 70° Fahr. -Towards morning, the Koumiss is quite fit for use. -Left in bottle till the next day, it becomes stronger, -but is still drinkable; while, if placed in a cold room, -it may be used even on the fifth day.</p> - -<p>“In order that the preparation of Koumiss may be -carried on successfully, it will be necessary to put aside -two bottles of the Koumiss first prepared, and to keep -them for three or four days, so as always to have a -bottle of four days old Koumiss in store for fermenting -new portions of milk, and of replacing the used bottles -by new ones.”</p> - -<p>This seems to be rather a long method of making -Koumiss, compared to that given by Dr. Wolff of -Philadelphia, which is excessively simple.</p> - -<p>“Take of grape sugar ½ oz.; dissolve in 4 ozs. of -water. In about 2 ozs. of milk dissolve 20 grains of -compressed yeast, or else well washed and pressed out -brewer’s yeast. Mix the two in a quart Champagne -bottle, which is to be filled with good cow’s milk to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_343"></a>[343]</span> -within two inches of the top; cork well, and secure the -cork with string or wire, and place in an ice chest or -cellar at a temperature of 50° Fahr. or less, and agitate -three times a day. At the expiration of three or four -days, at the latest, the Koumiss is ready for use, and -ought not then to be kept longer than four or five -days. It should be drawn with a Champagne syphon -tap, so that the carbonic acid may be retained, and -the contents will not entirely escape on opening the -bottle.”</p> - -<p>Be wary in opening a bottle of Koumiss, or you may -be thoroughly drenched, and have nothing left to drink, -for it generates a large quantity of carbonic acid gas, -so much so, indeed, that extra thick bottles should be -used.</p> - -<p>There is an interesting speculation abroad, that the -milk which Jael gave Sisera was fermented, and highly -intoxicating, which rendered him in a condition favourable -for her purpose.</p> - -<p>The Usbecks, Mongols, Kalmucks, and other -Tartars not only make milk into Koumiss, but distil a -very strong spirit from it, which they call <i>araka</i>, conjectured -by some, from its high antiquity, to be the -true source whence the Indian <i>Arrack</i> derives its -name. The distillation is generally effected by means -of two earthen pots closely stopped, from which the -liquor slowly runs through a small wooden pipe into a -receiver, which is usually covered with a coating of -wet clay. The spirit, at first, is weak, but after two or -three times distilling, it becomes exceedingly intoxicating. -Dr. Edward Clarke, in his <i>Travels in Russia,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_344"></a>[344]</span> -Turkey, and Asia</i>, saw this process performed by -means of a still constructed of mud, or very coarse -clay, having for the neck of the retort a piece of -cane.</p> - -<p class="right">J. A.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/illus63.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_345"></a>[345]</span></p> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/header29.jpg" width="500" height="200" alt="" /> -</div> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="ADDITIONAL_DRINKS">ADDITIONAL DRINKS.</h2> - -<p>Jewish Prayers respecting various Drinks—Women’s Tears—Dew—Oil—Sea -Water—Blood—Vegetable Water—Ganges Water—Vinegar—Ptisana—Toast -Water—Bragget—Ballston Water—Warm -Water—Asses’ Milk—Ghee—Milk Beer—Kumyss—Syra—Lamb -Wine—Rice Wine—Garapa—Fenkål—Brandy and -Port—Methylated Spirit.</p> - -</div> - -<p>In the Jewish prayers there is an especial, exclusive -and extensive blessing upon wine, which runs in -the following wise:—</p> - -<p>“Blessed art thou, O Lord our God, universal King, -for the vine, and for the fruit of the vine, and for the -produce of the field, and for the land of delight and -goodness and amplitude which Thou hast been pleased -to give as an inheritance to thy people Israel, to eat -of its fruit, and to be satisfied with its goodness.” -Then follow petitions for the divine mercy upon those -who say the blessing, upon Israel, God’s people, and -upon God’s city, Jerusalem, and upon Zion, the -dwelling-place of His glory, and upon His altar, and -upon His temple.</p> - -<p>The blessing concludes with a prayer for speedy -transportation into the holy city: “Bring us up into<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_346"></a>[346]</span> -the midst thereof eftsoons, even in these present -days, that we may bless Thee in purity and holiness. -For Thou art good, and the Giver of good to all. -Blessed art Thou, O Lord, for the land and for the -fruit of the vine.”</p> - -<p>This beautiful prayer,<a id="FNanchor_155" href="#Footnote_155" class="fnanchor">[155]</a> of which only the roughest -sketch has been given here, has been said by pious -Hebrews at every meal in which wine has been drunk -from time immemorial. But upon wine alone has this -honour been conferred. Those who drink <i>Shecar</i>, or -water, or any other beverage except wine, say before -their draught thus much only: “Blessed art Thou, O -Lord our God, universal King, by whose word all -things were made;” and after it, “Blessed art Thou, -O Lord our God, universal King, the Creator of many -souls, and their needs, for all which Thou hast created, -to keep alive the soul of every living thing. Blessed -art Thou who livest everlastingly.”</p> - -<p>But these two prayers have no especial and necessary -relation to drinks. They are also used where -aught is eaten which has not grown originally and -directly out of the earth, as, for example, the flesh of -some beasts, and birds, and fishes, and cheese, milk, -butter, and honey.</p> - -<p>In the present work particular attention has been -given, in the case of alcoholic drinks, to wines, spirits, -liqueurs, and beers, and in the case of non-alcoholic, -to mineral waters, tea, coffee, and other beverages<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_347"></a>[347]</span> -usually considered non-intoxicant; but under both -these widely extended categories a large number of -drinks must enter of which no mention whatever has -been made in the preceding pages. It remains for us, -therefore, to consider in the present chapter the most -interesting and important of these drinks which have -been hitherto excluded. Of the curious and, in many -cases, repulsive liquids which have from time to time -been taken, either to assuage the pangs of human thirst, -or to gratify the taste of the human palate in health -or in disease, the reader who has not devoted some -little time and attention to the investigation of this -subject will probably have but a very faint conception. -To go no farther back on the pathway of time than -to the age of John Taylor, the water poet, we find so -strange a drink as women’s tears.</p> - -<p>But at a date far earlier than that of the water poet, -the date of the Babylonian Talmud, in <i>Machshirin</i>, -vi. 64, there are seven liquids comprehended under -the generic term <i>drink</i> (Lev. xi. 34, and therefore -liable to ceremonial defilement), dew, water, wine, oil, -blood, milk, and honey. Upon every one of these -seven liquids something curious and interesting might -be written.</p> - -<p>About these drinks a question arises in the Talmud, -whether under water are included such beverages as -mulberry water, pomegranate water, and other waters -of fruits which have a <i>shem livoui</i>, or compound name. -Rambam the great Eagle, more commonly known as -Maimonides, seems to exclude these drinks from the -general category. By honey is to be understood the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_348"></a>[348]</span> -honey of bees; the honey of hornets is not to be -numbered in the list. In the <i>Tosephoth</i> of <i>Shabbath</i> -it is asked, How do we know that blood is a drink? -Because it is said (Num. xxiii. 24), And drink the -blood of the slain. How do we know that wine is -a drink? Because it is said (Deut. xxxii. 14), And -thou didst drink the pure blood of the grape. How -do we know that honey is a drink? Because it is said -(Deut. xxxii. 13), But He made him to suck honey -out of the rock. How do we know that oil is a -drink? Because it is said (Isa. xxv. 6), A feast of -fat things. How do we know that milk is a drink? -Because it is said (Judges iv. 19), And she opened -a bottle of milk and gave him drink. How do we -know that dew is a drink? Because it is said (Judges -vi. 38), And wringed the dew out of the fleece, a bowl -full of water. There is a curious addition, reminding -us of Taylor, the water poet. How do we know that -the tears of the eye are a drink? Because it is said -(Ps. lxxx. 5), And givest them tears to drink in great -measure. How do we know that the water of the -nose is a drink? Because—but the reader has had -probably enough of the Rabbinical lucubrations.</p> - -<p>A chapter of this book might, were not space a consideration, -be devoted to water, which Thales<a id="FNanchor_156" href="#Footnote_156" class="fnanchor">[156]</a> declared -to be the first principle of things, and, according to -Seneca,<a id="FNanchor_157" href="#Footnote_157" class="fnanchor">[157]</a> <i>valentissimum elementum</i>. Iced, it was inveighed<a id="FNanchor_158" href="#Footnote_158" class="fnanchor">[158]</a> -against by the Stoic philosopher, as injurious<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_349"></a>[349]</span> -to the stomach. The desire for it was said to proceed -from a pampered appetite. Pliny<a id="FNanchor_159" href="#Footnote_159" class="fnanchor">[159]</a> speaks of a wine -made from sea water, but considers it, with Celsus, -a bad stomachic. In later times sea water has been -converted into fresh.</p> - -<p>Bory de St. Vincent,<a id="FNanchor_160" href="#Footnote_160" class="fnanchor">[160]</a> in his <i>Essais sur les Isles Fortunées</i>, -an entertaining description of the archipelago -of the Canaries, says that in Fer, one of the Canary -Islands, a nearly total privation of running water was -compensated by an extraordinary tree. Bacon (<i>Nov. -Scient. Org.</i>, 412), the Father Taillandier (<i>Lettr. -Edit.</i>, vii., 280), Corneille (<i>Grand Dict.</i>, under <i>Fer</i>) -may be consulted about this tree, called the holy one. -Gonzalez d’Oviedo (ii., 9) says it distils water through -its trunk, branches, and leaves, which resemble so -many fountains. The “exaggerator Jakson,” says -Bory de St. Vincent, being at Fer in 1618, saw this -tree dried up during the day, but at night yielding -enough water to supply the thirst of 8,000 inhabitants -and 100,000 other animals. According to this authority, -it was distributed from time immemorial all over the -island by pipes of lead. It is nothing to “Jakson” -that lead was not known from time immemorial. -Viana (<i>Cant.</i>, i.) speaks of the sacred tree as a sort of -celestial pump.<a id="FNanchor_161" href="#Footnote_161" class="fnanchor">[161]</a> Another author says the holy tree -was called <i>Garoe</i>, and that its fruit resembled an acorn, -that its leaves were evergreen, and like those of a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_350"></a>[350]</span> -laurel. During an east wind the water harvest was -the most abundant.</p> - -<p>This celebrated vegetable product was unfortunately -destroyed by a hurricane in 1625. But even about -this date authors disagree. While Nunez de la Pena -is an authority for that given, Nieremberg assures us -the catastrophe occurred in 1629. Another date mentioned -is 1612.</p> - -<p>The view of Bory de St. Vincent is that this holy -tree was nothing more than the <i>Laurus Indica</i> of -Linnæus, which is indigenous to the mountain summits -of the Canary Islands. His concluding remark is -pregnant with common sense: <i>Si les auteurs que nous -ont parlé du Garoé ont dit qu’il était seul de son espèce -dans l’île, c’est qu’ils n’étaient pas botanistes, et qu’ils -n’avaient pas réfléchi que cet arbre ayant un fruit, devait -se reproduire, comme tous les autres végétaux.</i></p> - -<p>The water of rivers is often clarified in a peculiar -manner before drinking. For instance, that of the -Ganges is said to be improved by rubbing certain nuts -on the edges of the vessel in which it is kept,<a id="FNanchor_162" href="#Footnote_162" class="fnanchor">[162]</a> though -how this may be it is as difficult to understand, as how -the turtle is affected by a touch of his carapace, or -the Dean and Chapter—to borrow Sydney Smith’s -illustration—of St. Paul’s by stroking the cupola of -that cathedral. The Nile water is also said to be -purified by treating the vessel which holds it in a -similar manner to that which holds the water of the -Ganges, with bitter almonds. The bitter waters of -Marah were made sweet in a far different fashion.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_351"></a>[351]</span></p> - -<p>The <i>Melo-cacti</i> of South America have earned for -themselves the name of “springs of the desert,” -owing to their liquor-preserving properties. An ingenious -drink is that of the natives of Siberia, a drink -prepared of an intoxicating mushroom,<a id="FNanchor_163" href="#Footnote_163" class="fnanchor">[163]</a> in a peculiar -and economical manner, by natural distillation.</p> - -<p>Vinegar appears as a beverage in a few countries -only, and then for special purposes. The Roman -soldiers received it as a refreshing drink on their -marches, and even in the time of Constantine their -rations included vinegar on one day and wine on the -other. After all, this vinegar may have been nothing -more than what many of us drink at present under the -title of wine. That “excellent claret,” for instance, -“fit for any gentleman’s table,” which may be had at -1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> a bottle, may be very like the vinegar of the -Roman soldier. Roman reapers used it mixed with -water, we are told by Theocritus (Idyl x.), and before -that time Ruth was directed to dip her morsel in the -vinegar when she gleaned in the field of Boaz.</p> - -<p><i>Ptisana</i>, mentioned by Celsus (iii., 7), appears to -have been a mixture of rice or barley water and -vinegar.</p> - -<p>Toast-water is a drink which may be held by<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_352"></a>[352]</span> -some unworthy of mention, but they may change -their minds after reading what Mr. James Sedgwick, -apothecary at Stratford-le-Bow, had to say on this -subject in the year 1725. The burning of a crust and -putting it hissing hot into water has, according to this -gentleman, several good advantages. By it, the “raw -coldness from nitrous particles are (sic) taken off and -moderated, and it becomes more palatable, besides -which, from the sudden hissing opposition of temperament, -an elevation is made of the heterogeal particles, -a motion, an interchanging position is obtained: These -Principles during their intercourses will be imbibed -and sucked into the bread in order, according to their -respective distance and gravities, whereby the liquor -will become more pure and almost uncompounded, -less foreign than it was under its natural acception.” -And yet though all these securities are taken to blunt -the “frigorific mischiefs” of the water in general, yet -in many constitutions and at particular seasons it is -not to be trusted without some “substantial warmth -to give and maintain a glowing, e’er it dilutes and disperses.” -He goes on to say that it is better to add -wine to the water, “to prevent the contingent hazards -from the limpid element.”</p> - -<p><i>Braket</i> or <i>Bragget</i> or <i>Bragwort</i>, was a drink made -of the wort of ale, honey, and spices.<a id="FNanchor_164" href="#Footnote_164" class="fnanchor">[164]</a> Her mouth, -says Chaucer, speaking of Alison, the carpenter’s -pretty wife in the <i>Mother’s Tale</i>,</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent10">“was swete as <i>braket</i> or the meth,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Or hord of apples, laid in hay or heth.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_353"></a>[353]</span></p> -<p>And in Beaumont and Fletcher’s <i>Little Thief, or the -Night-Walker</i>, Jack Wildbrain speaks with contempt -of</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“One that knows not neck-beef from a pheasant,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Nor cannot relish <i>braggat</i> from ambrosia.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>The opponents of alcoholic drinks are often met by -the objection that some of the drinks recommended -by themselves are alcoholic, as indeed they often are. -Even water appears to possess, in some cases, an intoxicating -property. Pliny (<i>Nat. Hist.</i>, ii., cvi.) speaks -of a <i>Lyncestis aqua</i>,<a id="FNanchor_165" href="#Footnote_165" class="fnanchor">[165]</a> of a certain acidity, which makes -men drunken. The celebrated <i>Ballston</i> waters in the -State of New York, are said to be affected with qualities -“highly exhilarating,” sometimes producing vertigo, -which has been followed by drowsiness; in other words, -they who drink them exhibit the usual symptoms of -drunkenness.</p> - -<p>Timothy Dwight, in his <i>Travels in New England -and New York</i>, says that these waters are considered -by the farmers of the neighbourhood as an excellent -beverage, and are sent for from a considerable distance -for drink to labourers during haymaking and harvesting, -a time well known to be full of desire on the part -of country people employed in these agricultural pursuits, -for alcoholic refreshment. “They supersede,” -says Dwight, “in a great measure the use of any -ardent spirits.” But since the result of drinking these -waters seems precisely the same, as far as regards<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_354"></a>[354]</span> -inebriation, as that of drinking beer or other alcoholic -liquor, it is questionable whether any advantage is -gained by this supersession.</p> - -<p>The properties of the <i>Saratoga</i> water, situated some -seven miles from that of <i>Ballston</i>, are also of a very -remarkable nature. They abound to such an extent -in a species of gas, that we are told a very nice sort -of breakfast bread is baked from them instead of yeast.</p> - -<p>The Romans considered warm water an agreeable -drink at the conclusion of the chief repast of the day. -This may explain why Julius Cæsar was always taken -ill after dinner.</p> - -<p>Many drinks are derived from animals, either wholly -as milk and blood, or from animals and vegetables in -common, as oil.</p> - -<p>It is said that there are people here in England -who like—so strange is the diversity of tastes—a -draught of oil from the liver of a cod as much as an -Esquimaux approves of a draught of the oil of a porpoise -or a seal.</p> - -<p>Of milk a large catalogue of drinks can be reckoned. -First, there are the different kinds of milk of different -animals, as the milk of asses, of women, of goats, of -cows, of sheep, of reindeer, of camels, of sows, and -of mares. Then it may be swallowed as it is drawn, -or in the form of whey, or curdled. <i>Ghee</i><a id="FNanchor_166" href="#Footnote_166" class="fnanchor">[166]</a> is a common -favourite throughout all India. It is a stale butter -clarified by boiling and straining, and then set to cool, -when it remains in a semi-liquid or oily state, and is -used in cooking, or is drunk by the natives.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_355"></a>[355]</span></p> - -<p>In milk-beer, milk is substituted for water. <i>Kef</i> is -a kind of effervescing fermented milk, much resembling -<i>Koumiss</i> (or rather <i>Kumyss</i>), of which the best is -probably to be obtained in Samàra. <i>Youourt</i><a id="FNanchor_167" href="#Footnote_167" class="fnanchor">[167]</a> is a -favourite drink at Constantinople, made of milk curdled -after a peculiar fashion. <i>Syra</i>, a form allied with the -German <i>Säure</i>, is a sour whey, used for drink like -small beer in Norway and Iceland. <i>Aizen</i> and <i>Leban</i> -are both sorts of <i>Kumyss</i>, one of the Tartars, the other -of the Arabs. The latter have also an intoxicating -liquor <i>Sabzi</i>, made of <i>Bhang</i>, a species of hemp. The -green leaf from which the drink derives its name is -pounded and diluted with sugared water.</p> - -<p>Even the warm blood of living animals has been -considered suitable for a drink. In the book of Ser -Marco Polo the Venetian, concerning the marvels of the -East, we are told, the Tartar will sustain himself in -an economical manner, by opening a vein in the neck -of the horse upon which he rides, and having taken a -sufficient drink will close the aperture, and ride on as -before. Carpini says much the same of the Mongols. -This appears indeed to have been a time-honoured -institution.</p> - -<p>Dionysius Periegetes, in the nineteenth chapter of -his <i>Description of the World</i>, treating of Scythia and -other ancient nations situated in what is now known -as Great Tartary, says of the Massagetæ that they -have no eating of bread nor any native wine, but</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent44">ἵππων</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Αἵματι μίσγοντες λευκὸν γάλα δαῖτα τίθεντο.</div><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_356"></a>[356]</span> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent20">“Or with horses blood,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And white milk mingled set their banquets forth,”</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse right"><i>Orbis Desc.</i>, 578.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>And Sidonius, to the same effect,</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent16">“<i>solitosque cruentum</i></div> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>Lac potare Getas, et pocula tingere venas.</i>”</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse right"><i>Parag. ad Avitum.</i></div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Another strange variety of drink is made by the -Peruvians. The ordinary <i>chica</i> is mixed with the -bloody garments of a slain warrior. Temple (<i>Travels</i>, -ii., 311).</p> - -<p>According to Lobo, the Abyssinians esteem the -gall one of the most delicious parts of a beast, and -drink glasses of it, as epicures with us drink <i>Château -Lafitte</i>. Pearce (<i>Adventures in Abyssinia</i>, i., 95) -says that they also drink blood warm from the animal -with an extraordinary relish.</p> - -<p>The Mantchoos, the conquerors of China, prepare -a wine of a peculiar mixture from the flesh of lambs, -either by fermenting it reduced to a kind of paste with -the milk of their domestic animals, or by bruising it -to a pulp with rice. When properly matured, it is -put into jars and drawn as occasion requires. It is -said to be strong and nutritious, and the most -voluptuous orgies of the Tartars are the result of an -intoxication from <i>lamb wine</i>. Abbé Rickard, <i>History -of Tonquin</i>.</p> - -<p>The only wine in Sumatra, according to Marco -Polo, was derived from a certain tree, the <i>sacred -wine</i>-tree as it might be called, in comparison with the -<i>sacred water</i>-tree, afterwards known as <i>Areng Saccharifera</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_357"></a>[357]</span> -from the Javanese name, called by the Malays -<i>Gomuti</i> and by the Portuguese <i>Saguer</i>. It has some -resemblance to a date palm, to which Polo compares -it, but is much coarser and more ragged, <i>incompta et -adspectu tristis</i>, dishevelled and of a melancholy aspect, -as it is described by Rumphius. A branch of this tree -was cut, a large pot attached, and in a day and a night -the pot was filled with excellent wine, both white and -red, which, says the Venetian, cures dropsy and tisick -and spleen.</p> - -<p>The Chinese <i>Rice Wine</i> and its manufacture is -described in Amyot’s <i>Memoires</i>, v., 468. A yeast is -employed, with which is often mixed a flour prepared -from fragrant herbs, almonds, pine seeds, dried fruits, -etc. Rubruquis says the liquor is not distinguishable, -except by smell, from the best wine of Auxerre, -a wine so famous in the middle ages that the historian -friar Salimbene went to that town for the express -purpose of drinking it. Ysbrand Ides compares it to -Rhenish, John Bell to Canary, and a modern traveller, -quoted by Davis, “in colour and a little in taste to -Madeira.” Marco Polo says, “it is a very hot stuff,” -making one drunk sooner than any other beverage.</p> - -<p>From the walnut, which is cultivated to great extent -in the Crimea, a sweet clear liquor is extracted in the -spring, at the time the sap is rising in the tree. The -trunk of the walnut is pierced and a spigot placed in -the incision. The fluid obtained soon coagulates into a -substance used as sugar. It does not, however, appear -that the juice has been converted to any inebriating -purpose. Not only, however, from the walnut can a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_358"></a>[358]</span> -good drink be extracted, but also from the birch, the -willow, the poplar and the sycamore.</p> - -<p>A sort of birch wine is made in Normandy.</p> - -<p>An excellent drink, resembling brandy, has been -distilled, it is said, from water melons in the southern -provinces of Russia, where consequently much attention -is paid to the culture of this vegetable, producing -in some cases water melons of thirty pounds in weight.</p> - -<p>In the Sandwich Islands a drink is distilled from -the root of the <i>Dracæna</i>, something like the beet of this -country. The root of the <i>Dracæna</i> gives a saccharine -juice resembling molasses. From this, with the addition -of some ginger, a kind of tea is made, also a -spirit called by the natives <i>Ywera</i>. Their manufacture -of this drink is remarkable for its complexity, -involving certain mystic operations with an old pot, -a leaky canoe, a calabash, and a rusty gun-barrel. It -is unnecessary to give a detailed account of the process. -We yearn in vain for that absence of entanglement -which distinguishes the religion of the Iroquois, -who have no other worship than the annual sacrifice -of a dog to <i>Taulonghyaawangooa</i>, which being interpreted -is the “supporter of the Heavens.” At this -sacrifice they eat the dog.</p> - -<p><i>Sbitena</i>, or Sbetin, is the name of a delightful drink -sold in the streets of <i>St. Petersburg</i> to the populace. -In Granville’s <i>St. Petersburg</i> (ii., 422) a mention is -made of this beverage. It is composed of honey and -hot water and pepper and boiling milk.</p> - -<p>A drink called <i>Omeire</i> is prepared in the South-West -of Africa by the aid of some dirty gourds and -milk vigorously shaken therein at stated intervals.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_359"></a>[359]</span></p> - -<p>In Nubia the crumb of strongly leavened bread -made from <i>dhurra</i> is mixed with water and set on -the fire. It is afterwards allowed to ferment for two -days, strained through a cloth, a lady’s garment by -choice, and drunk. It is called <i>Ombulbul</i>, or the -mother of the nightingale, because it makes the drinker -sing like that bird. <i>Pulque</i> is a vinous beverage made -in Mexico by fermenting the juice of the <i>agave</i>. Its -distinctive peculiarity is its odour, which has been -compared by an experimentalist to that of putrid -meat.</p> - -<p>There are four drinks in Madagascar: <i>Toak</i>, made -from honey and water; <i>Araffer</i>, from a tree called -<i>Sater</i>, resembling a small cocoa-nut; <i>Toupare</i>, from -boiled cane, a liquid so corrosive as in a short time to -penetrate an egg shell; and <i>Vontaca</i>, from the juice of -the so-called Bengal quince. The last soon produces -intoxication, against which another curious drink is -mentioned as a remedy by Ovalle, to wit, the sweat of -a horse infused in wine.</p> - -<p>The aborigines of Australia (Dawson’s <i>Present -State of Australia</i>, p. 60) are inordinately fond of a -beverage known by them under the name of <i>bull</i>. -The recipe for this, as given by Mr. Dawson, runs -thus: Get an old sugar bag, steal it if you cannot get -it by any other means, and cut it into small pieces. -Prepare a large kettle of boiling water, throw into it -as many of these pieces of bag as it will hold, and let -it simmer for half a day. An excellent <i>bull</i> will be -the result. This <i>bull</i>, says Dawson, they are extremely -fond of, and will drink it till they are blown out like -an ox with clover, and can contain no more.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_360"></a>[360]</span></p> - -<p>Poncet speaks of booza as the usual liquor of the -Abyssinians, “vastly thick and very ill tasted,” produced -from a day’s soaking of a roasted berry.</p> - -<p>The negroes of Brazil affect a mixture of black -sugar and water without fermentation, called <i>Garapa</i>, -to which heat is sometimes added by the leaves of the -<i>Acajou</i> tree.</p> - -<p>Snow melted and impregnated with the flavour of -smoke from the fire upon which it is placed is the -common drink of the Lapp. Occasionally he gets a -decoction of the herb <i>angelica</i> in milk. The maritime -Lapp drinks with gusto the oil squeezed from the entrails -of fish. Women, it is said, will take a pint and a -half of this so-called <i>tran</i> at a meal. But the favourite -drink is composed of water and meal flavoured with a -quantity of tallow, and, if circumstances will permit, the -blood of the reindeer.</p> - -<p><i>Taidge</i> or <i>Tedge</i> or <i>Tedj</i> is a kind of honey wine -or hydromel, said by Father Poncet<a id="FNanchor_168" href="#Footnote_168" class="fnanchor">[168]</a> to be a delicious -liquor, pure, clarified, and of the colour of Spanish -white wine. The process of its manufacture is simple. -Wild honey is mixed with water, and set in a jar, with -a little sprouted barley, some <i>biccalo</i> or <i>taddoo</i> bark, -and a few <i>geso</i> or <i>guécho</i> leaves. A superior kind is -made by adding <i>kuloh</i> berries. This is called <i>barilla</i>. -The taste of <i>tedj</i> has been described as that of small -beer and musty lemonade. The women commonly -strain it through their shifts.</p> - -<p><i>Besdon</i> is made like <i>tedj</i>, with honey, and is highly -valued in some parts of Africa. <i>Ladakh</i> beer has the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_361"></a>[361]</span> -merit of portability. It is made of parched barley, rice, -and the root of an aromatic plant, and pressed into a -cake. A piece of this is broken off and cast into water. -It resembles in taste sour gruel.</p> - -<p><i>Pombe</i> is a liquid brewed of fruit, furnishing a -common sort of cider known well in Eastern Africa.</p> - -<p>In Tonquin<a id="FNanchor_169" href="#Footnote_169" class="fnanchor">[169]</a> on the annual renewal of allegiance, -they drink chicken’s blood mixed with arrack. They -make a sort of cider from <i>miengou</i>, a fruit like a -pomegranate. An extract of wheat, rye, or millet is -mixed with <i>peka</i>, consisting of rice flour, garlic, -aniseed, and liquorice. After fermentation it is distilled -and becomes the celebrated <i>Samchou</i>.</p> - -<p>In Sweden, with the <i>smör-gås</i>, or fore taste<a id="FNanchor_170" href="#Footnote_170" class="fnanchor">[170]</a> at a side-table -a glass of <i>fenkål</i>, sometimes very good, sometimes -very bad, is given to him who is about to dine. -It is made from fennel—a form perhaps of <i>fœniculum</i>—growing -wild and abundant, as at Marathon<a id="FNanchor_171" href="#Footnote_171" class="fnanchor">[171]</a> the celebrated -deme on the east coast of Attica, the field of -the famous battle.</p> - -<p>In addition to strange compounds known in various -parts of this country, such as Gin and Lime Juice, -Whiskey or Rum and Milk, Brandy and Port, a -drink said to have originated in Lancashire, Dog’s -Nose, Shandy Gaff, etc., etc., may be mentioned Ethyl<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_362"></a>[362]</span> -or Methylated Spirits, a beverage which, like ether in -Ireland, has of late years advanced considerably in -public estimation. It has the two advantages of being -cheap and heady. An Act of 1880 imposed penalties -on any retail tradesman selling it for the purpose of -drink. A better method perhaps to prevent its being -poured down the throats of Her Majesty’s liege subjects -would be to take steps to ensure its being mixed -before sold with a strong emetic. The palate can be -trained, but the stomach is far less docile.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> -<img src="images/footer14.jpg" width="200" height="400" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="footnotes"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h2 class="nobreak">FOOTNOTES</h2> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> These essences and colours are no new thing. Addison spoke -of them nearly two hundred years ago in his “Trial of the Wine -Brewers” in the <i>Tatler</i>. Tom Tintoret and Harry Sippet have left -a large family behind them.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> See tailpiece, where a servant is coming to the assistance of -her mistress.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> Jablonski is our authority for supposing it primarily an Egyptian -drink. A <i>zythum</i> and a <i>dizythum</i> seem to have existed, corresponding, -let us say, to our <i>Single</i> and <i>Double X</i>.</p> - -<p>This <i>zythum</i> is nearly allied to the <i>sacera</i> of Palestine, the <i>cesia</i> -of Spain, the <i>cervisia</i> of Gaul, the <i>sebaia</i> of Dalmatia, and the <i>curmi</i> -or <i>camum</i> of Germany. According to Rabbi Joseph, this beer was -made ⅓ barley, ⅓ <i>Crocus Sylvestris</i>, ⅓ salt. He adds, “He that -is bound, it looseth; and he who is loose, it binds; and it is -dangerous for pregnant women.”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> Information on this subject is given by Sir Edward Barry, -<i>Observations on the Wines of the Ancients</i>; Henderson, <i>History of -Ancient and Modern Wines</i>; and Becker’s <i>Charicles</i>.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">[5]</a> This is probably the murrhina of Plautus (<i>Pseudol.</i> ii. 4, 50)</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">[6]</a> This drink must not be confounded with ὑδρόμελι, honey and -water, our mead, or ὑδρόμήλον, our cider.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">[7]</a> Pliny, <i>Nat. Hist.</i> xiv. 19, etc.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">[8]</a> Line 964, etc.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9" class="label">[9]</a> Line 4044, etc.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10" class="label">[10]</a> Line 1387, etc.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11" class="label">[11]</a> Line 1432, etc.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12" class="label">[12]</a> Line 135, etc.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13" class="label">[13]</a> <i>Hist. Account of the Cathedral Church of York</i>, Lond., 1715, p. 7.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_14" href="#FNanchor_14" class="label">[14]</a> That division of the ancient kingdom of Northumberland, which -was bounded by the river Humber southwards, and to the north by -the Tyne.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_15" href="#FNanchor_15" class="label">[15]</a> A liquor made of honey, wine, and spice.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_16" href="#FNanchor_16" class="label">[16]</a> Honey, diluted with the juice of mulberries.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_17" href="#FNanchor_17" class="label">[17]</a> In this sense it is apparently used in Gen. ix. 24: “Noah awoke -from his <i>wine</i>.”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_18" href="#FNanchor_18" class="label">[18]</a> From an Arabic word for antimony, applied to the eyes, the -name is said to have been transferred to rectified spirits (C₂H₆O). -It is a liquid formed by fermentation of aqueous sugar solutions. -<i>Spirit of Wine</i> contains about 90 per cent. of alcohol. 55 parts of -alcohol and 45 of water form <i>proof spirit</i>. Of alcohol, spirits contain -40-50 per cent.; wines, 7-25; ale and porter, 6-8; small beer, 1-2.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_19" href="#FNanchor_19" class="label">[19]</a> Who would believe this from the specimens tasted in England? -Yet we are assured the statement is perfectly true.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_20" href="#FNanchor_20" class="label">[20]</a> Patterson’s <i>Travels in Caffraria</i>, p. 92.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_21" href="#FNanchor_21" class="label">[21]</a> One of these inspired Longfellow, who thinks (poetically) the -richest wine is that of the West, which grows by the beautiful river, -whose sweet perfume fills the apartment, with a benison on the -giver:—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Very good in its way is the Verzenay,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">Or the Sillery, soft and creamy;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">But Catawba wine has a taste more divine,</div> - <div class="verse indent2">More dulcet, delicious, and dreamy.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>A dreamy taste is something startling even in poetical description.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_22" href="#FNanchor_22" class="label">[22]</a> Chili has lately taken Paris medals for its wines; it also produces -a light and wholesome beer.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_23" href="#FNanchor_23" class="label">[23]</a> The <i>rébêche</i> is principally sold to people manufacturing cheap -Champagnes; by mixing with other wines of very light complexion, -they give them body, and make a stuff which can be produced at -a very low price.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_24" href="#FNanchor_24" class="label">[24]</a> <i>De Proprietatibus Rerum.</i> Argent. 1485, lib. xix. cap. 56.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_25" href="#FNanchor_25" class="label">[25]</a> Blount’s <i>Fragmenta Antiquitatis</i>. Sec. “Grand Serjeantry,” -No. IV.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_26" href="#FNanchor_26" class="label">[26]</a> <i>The Wines of the World, Characterized and Classed</i>, 1875, pp. -16, 17.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_27" href="#FNanchor_27" class="label">[27]</a> This wine is said to profit much by a quiescent state of the air -afforded by the town wall.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_28" href="#FNanchor_28" class="label">[28]</a> A wine at Homburg, called <i>Erlacher</i>, at about one mark a bottle, -is, says Dr. Charnock, frequently superior to the ordinary <i>Niersteiner</i>.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_29" href="#FNanchor_29" class="label">[29]</a> “Hock,” says one of those wine circulars, which weary alike the -postman and the public, “is the English name for the noble vintages -of the Rhine, which afford models of what wine ought to be. Their -purity is attested by their durability. They are almost imperishable. -They increase appetite, they exhilarate without producing languor, -and they purify the blood. The Germans say good Hock keeps off -the doctor. Southey says it deserves to be called the Liquor of Life. -And so Pindar would have called it, if he had ever tasted it.” -Nothing surely can be added to this description of its virtues.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_30" href="#FNanchor_30" class="label">[30]</a> Thus unfortunately translated, “Rhine wine is good, Neckar pleasant, -Frankfort bad, Moselle innocent.” But Moselle, we have been -told, is very far from “innocent.” <i>Unnosel</i> is without bouquet. <i>Tranken</i> -means not bad but drinkable, and <i>lecker</i> is rather lickerish than -good. A sample of the same carelessness occurs on the next page, -where <i>ein weinfask von anderhalb ahm ein pipe</i> is intended to express -<i>ein Weinfass von anderthalb Ohm, eine Pipe</i>. It is a pity that an excellent -work, to which we, as many writers on wine like ourselves, have -been deeply indebted, should be marred by these irregularities.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_31" href="#FNanchor_31" class="label">[31]</a> Colonel Leake described the ordinary country wine as a villainous -compound of lime, resin, spirits of wine, and grapes, without body or -flavour. Nor were things better in the days of old. Dugald Dalgetty, -a German Ensign, writing from Athens in 1687, says, “Would -that I could exchange a cask of Athenian wine for a cask of German -beer!” The <i>vin du pays</i> is impregnated with resin or turpentine now -as formerly, whence, according to Plutarch, the Thyrsus of Bacchus -is adorned with a pine cone. Pliny says it favours the preservation -of the drink.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_32" href="#FNanchor_32" class="label">[32]</a> The island owes this name to its patron saint Irene, martyred -here <span class="allsmcap">A.D.</span> 304.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_33" href="#FNanchor_33" class="label">[33]</a> The value attached to this wine is one example among many of -the caprice of fashion. The <i>Muscadine</i> of Syracuse or the <i>Lagrima</i> -of Malaga is equal to it in richness, and few people would prefer it -to other wines, did they dare to contradict the decision of fashion -in its favour, and to have a taste of their own.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_34" href="#FNanchor_34" class="label">[34]</a> So called from its green colour. It is said to have been a favourite -wine of Frederick the Great. It is held now in slighter esteem.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_35" href="#FNanchor_35" class="label">[35]</a> Called <i>Est Est</i> from the writing under the bust of the valet of -the bibulous German bishop Defoucris, who drank himself to death, -upon which his valet composed his epitaph.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>‘Est est,’ propter minium ‘est,’.</i></div> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>Dominus meus mortuus est.</i></div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Reverence for antiquity is our sole excuse for the reproduction of -these wretched lines. <i>Monte Pulciano</i> has also the credit of having -killed a Churchman. Other wines doubtless have had the same -honour.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_36" href="#FNanchor_36" class="label">[36]</a> “Let no man,” says the Talmud, “send his neighbour wine with -oil upon its surface.”—<i>Chulin</i>, fol. 94, col. 1.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_37" href="#FNanchor_37" class="label">[37]</a> Malmsey wine is also a product of Funchal, in Madeira. The -first so-called wine was shipped for Francis I. of France. The word -is probably a corruption of <i>Malvasia</i> or <i>Monemvasia</i> (μόνη ἐμβασία, -or single entrance), a Greek island from which the grape may have -been brought by the Florentine Acciajoli in 1515.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_38" href="#FNanchor_38" class="label">[38]</a> Rota wines are mostly coloured, or <i>Tintos</i>, whence our English -sacramental drink. They are all simmered—at their best in youth, -and their worst in age.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_39" href="#FNanchor_39" class="label">[39]</a> Supposed by some to be the old English Sack. The reader -interested may consult Hakluyt, Nicols, Hewell’s Dictionary, and -Venner’s <i>Via Recta</i>.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_40" href="#FNanchor_40" class="label">[40]</a> The etymology is uncertain. Some derive it from the town near -Seville, others from the Spanish word for an apple, and others again -from that for a camomile flower.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_41" href="#FNanchor_41" class="label">[41]</a> <i>Valley of Rocks</i>, indicating the soil on which it is grown.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_42" href="#FNanchor_42" class="label">[42]</a> It is frequently damaged by the carelessness of the <i>vinatero</i>, or -wine-seller, to such an extent that the proverb <i>Pregonar vino y vender -vinagre</i> becomes, like wisdom, justified of her children.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_43" href="#FNanchor_43" class="label">[43]</a> So called from the grape common in most parts of Spain.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_44" href="#FNanchor_44" class="label">[44]</a> The fine old Amoroso, of which a small stock is still remaining.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_45" href="#FNanchor_45" class="label">[45]</a> So called from the battle of Birs, in the reign of Louis XI., in -which 1,600 Swiss opposed 30,000 French, and only sixteen of the -former survived. The fallen succumbed, we are told, less to the -power of the foe than to the fatigue of the fighting.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_46" href="#FNanchor_46" class="label">[46]</a> It is supposed by the erudite divine, Adam Clarke, to be probably -borrowed from the Hebrew word שֵׁכָר, Greek σίκερα, which, -according to St. Jerome (<i>Epist. ad Nepotianum de vita Clericorum, et -in Isai. xxvii. 1</i>), means any intoxicating liquor, whether of honey, -corn, apples, dates, or other fruits.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_47" href="#FNanchor_47" class="label">[47]</a> In a treatise of the Talmud, <i>Abodah Zarah</i>, fol. 40, col. 2, -cider is called “wine of apples.”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_48" href="#FNanchor_48" class="label">[48]</a> Walker: <i>Hist. Essay on Gardening</i>, p. 166. <i>Anthologia Hibernica</i>, -i. 194.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_49" href="#FNanchor_49" class="label">[49]</a> The extra dry old lauded or pale cremant, or the extra reserve -Cuvée, 1884 vintage.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_50" href="#FNanchor_50" class="label">[50]</a> For further information, see Crocker, Marshall, Knight, and -especially Stopes.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_51" href="#FNanchor_51" class="label">[51]</a> The French name, <i>Eau de Vie</i>, having the same meaning.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_52" href="#FNanchor_52" class="label">[52]</a> “The Vertuose boke of Distyllacyon of the Waters of all maner -of Herbes, with the fygures of the styllatoryes, Fyrst made and compyled -by the thyrte yeres study and labour of the most con̅ynge and -famous master of phisyke, Master Iherom bruynswyke. And now -newly Translated out of Duyche into Englysshe,” etc. Lond., 1572.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_53" href="#FNanchor_53" class="label">[53]</a> Lethargy.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_54" href="#FNanchor_54" class="label">[54]</a> Belching.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_55" href="#FNanchor_55" class="label">[55]</a> Pleurisy.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_56" href="#FNanchor_56" class="label">[56]</a> A Spanish Wine.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_57" href="#FNanchor_57" class="label">[57]</a> ? Orrice.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_58" href="#FNanchor_58" class="label">[58]</a> Stir.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_59" href="#FNanchor_59" class="label">[59]</a> Phial.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_60" href="#FNanchor_60" class="label">[60]</a> <i>Adam and Eve stript of their furbelows</i>, 1710 (?)</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_61" href="#FNanchor_61" class="label">[61]</a> Act III., s. 3.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_62" href="#FNanchor_62" class="label">[62]</a> <i>My Life and Recollections</i>, Vol. I., p. 59.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_63" href="#FNanchor_63" class="label">[63]</a> Now called Athol brose.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_64" href="#FNanchor_64" class="label">[64]</a> Of the word gill-house a recent editor of Pope observes that it is -doubtful whether it is to be understood as a house where gill, or beer -impregnated with ground-ivy, was sold, or whether as an inferior -tavern, where beer was sold by the measure known as a gill.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_65" href="#FNanchor_65" class="label">[65]</a> There are two other prints connected with this event, all -published at the same time. One is “The Funeral Procession of -Madame Geneva, Sept. 29, 1736.” The other is a Memorial, “To -the Mortal Memory of Madame Geneva, who died Sept. 29, 1736. -Her weeping Servants and loving Friends, consecrate this Tomb.”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_66" href="#FNanchor_66" class="label">[66]</a> Whose premises were burnt down during the Lord George -Gordon riots. Dickens immortalized Langdale in <i>Barnaby Rudge</i>. -The distillery is still in existence at the same place.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_67" href="#FNanchor_67" class="label">[67]</a> A whistling shop was a sly grog-shop. No spirits were allowed -in the Fleet prison, but of course they were introduced, and could -be got at some places. The method of telling who could be -trusted, was for the customers to whistle—hence the term.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_68" href="#FNanchor_68" class="label">[68]</a> <i>Alcoholic Drinks</i>, 1884, p. 67.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_69" href="#FNanchor_69" class="label">[69]</a> Scott’s <i>Ivanhoe</i>, cap. iii.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_70" href="#FNanchor_70" class="label">[70]</a> <i>Morat</i> is a composition of honey and mulberries, from which -latter its name is derived.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_71" href="#FNanchor_71" class="label">[71]</a> According to their first institution the Jesuits were not priests. -This was conceded to them afterwards by Paul V. Their primitive -principal occupation was the assistance of the sick and the distillation -of salutiferous waters, whence they were known as “<i>padri dell’ -acquavite</i>,” or Fathers of brandies.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_72" href="#FNanchor_72" class="label">[72]</a> A liqueur made with the flower of citron.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_73" href="#FNanchor_73" class="label">[73]</a> <i>Ad majorem Dei gloriam.</i></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_74" href="#FNanchor_74" class="label">[74]</a> Roret’s “<i>Manuel du distillateur-liquoriste</i>.”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_75" href="#FNanchor_75" class="label">[75]</a> <i>Gui-Patin Lettres</i>, ii. 425.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_76" href="#FNanchor_76" class="label">[76]</a> One of the most important liqueur manufactories is that of -Marie Brizard and Roger of Bordeaux. In 1755 Marie Brizard, in -the Quartier S. Pierre, a lady of much devotion and charity, devoted -a large portion of her time, in imitation of the monks, to the concoction -of medicinal cordials. Of these, her <i>Anisette</i>, so called from -its chief ingredient, soon attained a wide reputation. Roger married -the niece of this lady, and the firm is now known under their joint -names. They manufacture many other liqueurs, but are still chiefly -famous for the old medicinal cordial.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_77" href="#FNanchor_77" class="label">[77]</a> الاكسير, <i>alacsir</i>, from ξηρόν, dry.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_78" href="#FNanchor_78" class="label">[78]</a> Here is the etymological process for the linguistic student: -<i>Ligusticum</i>; Lat., <i>levisticum</i>; Fr., <i>luvesche</i>, <i>leveshe</i>, <i>livèche</i>; O. Eng., -<i>livish</i>, <i>lovage</i>. The Italian has the form <i>libistico</i>, and the Portuguese -<i>levistico</i>.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_79" href="#FNanchor_79" class="label">[79]</a> A technical term.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_80" href="#FNanchor_80" class="label">[80]</a> So called because said to be prepared from the maidenhair -fern, <i>Adiantum capillus Veneris</i>; “but,” says Pereira, (<i>Materia -Medica</i>), “the liqueur sold in the shops under this name is nothing -but clarified syrup flavoured with orange-flower water.”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_81" href="#FNanchor_81" class="label">[81]</a> These colours by which <i>soi-disant</i> connoisseurs profess to -determine the excellence of the liqueur, are in most cases merely -adscititious. Rules are given for their manufacture. Rose, for -instance, is the outcome of cochineal or sanders wood steeped for a -fortnight in spirits of wine. Blue, of indigo and sulphuric acid. -Yellow, of saffron. Pink, of cudbear, a corruption of the name of the -chemist, Dr. <i>Cuthbert</i> Gordon, who first employed this lichen; and -green, of blue and yellow mixed.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_82" href="#FNanchor_82" class="label">[82]</a> A pharmaceutical term for volatile oil of orange flowers. Said -to be derived from an Italian princess, Néroli, who invented it.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_83" href="#FNanchor_83" class="label">[83]</a> From Arabic خلنج <i>Khulanj</i>, “a tree from which wooden bowls -are made,” Richardson. A dried rhizome brought from China, an -aromatic stimulant of the nature of ginger. The drug is mostly produced -by <i>Alpinia officinarum</i>.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_84" href="#FNanchor_84" class="label">[84]</a> Also called Luft-Wasser.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_85" href="#FNanchor_85" class="label">[85]</a> Only an Italian, we are told, can make this liqueur. The -composition is a dark secret, but, we are also told, it originated in -Austria, and is a mixture of tea, wine and milk in unknown quantities.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_86" href="#FNanchor_86" class="label">[86]</a> Said, on account of its carminative properties, to be derived -from the three words <i>vesse</i>, <i>pet</i>, and <i>rot</i>, which it is not incumbent -upon us to translate.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_87" href="#FNanchor_87" class="label">[87]</a> Merely a corruption of <i>Usquebaugh</i>.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_88" href="#FNanchor_88" class="label">[88]</a> So called from the inventor. Said to be useful in stomachic -affections.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_89" href="#FNanchor_89" class="label">[89]</a> <i>Sic</i>, aimable (?)</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_90" href="#FNanchor_90" class="label">[90]</a> So called because made with <i>guignes</i>, Sp. <i>guindas</i>; dark red, -very sweet cherries, smaller than the <i>bigarreaux</i>. The <i>Guignolet -d’Angers</i> is especially famous.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_91" href="#FNanchor_91" class="label">[91]</a> This is composed of fennel, celery, coriander, and angelica.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_92" href="#FNanchor_92" class="label">[92]</a> Sometimes written <i>Karoy</i>. <i>Carum carve</i>, L., from the Greek -κάρον, an umbelliferous plant of which the root by culture becomes -edible. The fruit is analogous to that of anise.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_93" href="#FNanchor_93" class="label">[93]</a> Also written more correctly <i>d’Hendaye</i>; white, yellow, and green, -according to its alcoholic strength.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_94" href="#FNanchor_94" class="label">[94]</a> <i>Cassis</i> would appear to be the name of a <i>ville</i> (<i>Bouches-du-Rhone</i>) -which has a commerce of wine and fruit.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_95" href="#FNanchor_95" class="label">[95]</a> <i>Stolberg’s Travels</i>, i., 146.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_96" href="#FNanchor_96" class="label">[96]</a> Germ. <i>Wermuth</i>, absinthe or wormwood, plant of genus -<i>Artemisia</i>—perhaps originally connected with <i>warm</i>, on account of -the warmth it produces in the stomach. This bitter, though -commonly quoted under liqueurs, should be classed with <i>Quinine -Wine</i>, <i>Angostura</i>, <i>Khoosh</i>, etc., <i>Juglandine</i>, made in France from the -walnut, <i>Malakoff</i> made in Silesia, the <i>Shaddock</i> and <i>Quassia</i> bitters -of the West Indies, and the <i>Schapps</i> bitter of Switzerland.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_97" href="#FNanchor_97" class="label">[97]</a> The dictionary explanations of these terms are commonly unsatisfactory. -The experience of the bar-tender is more than the -learning of the lexicographer. <i>Cobbler</i>, indeed, is well explained as -compounded of wine, sugar, lemon, and sucked up through a -straw; but of <i>cocktail</i> we only learn that it is a compounded drink -much used in America. The etymologies given are generally satisfactory. -<i>Julep</i> is from گلاب rose water. <i>Mull</i> from <i>mulled</i>, erroneously -taken as a past participle. According to Wedgwood, <i>mulled</i> is a -form of <i>mould</i>, and <i>mulled</i> ale is funeral ale, <i>potatio funerosa</i>. -<i>Nogg</i> is from <i>noggin</i>, signifying a pot, and then the strong beer which it -contains. <i>Negus</i> is commonly known to have been the invention of Col. -Francis Negus in the reign of Anne. <i>Punch</i> is of course from the -Hindustani پانچ, signifying 5, from its five original ingredients, to -wit, <i>aqua vitæ</i>, <i>rose water</i>, <i>sugar</i>, <i>arrack</i>, and <i>citron juice</i>. A very unsatisfactory -derivation of <i>Sangaree</i> is from the Spanish <i>sangria</i>, the -incision of a vein. <i>Shrub</i> is clearly the Arabic شرب or syrup. -<i>Smash</i>, explained curtly as “iced brandy and water.” (<i>Slang</i>) is probably -from the smashing of the ice; while <i>sling</i> seems evidently to -be from the German <i>schlingen</i>, to swallow.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_98" href="#FNanchor_98" class="label">[98]</a> The verdict of François Guislier du Verger, the master-distiller in -the art of chemistry at Paris, in his <i>Traité des Liqueurs</i>, in 1728, -is altogether unfavourable to what he calls <i>Le Ponge</i>. “It is,” he -says, “an English liqueur, and a man must be English to drink it; for -I think it cannot be to the taste of any other nation in the world. -It upsets the stomach, provokes the bile, and violently affects the -head. How, indeed, can it be otherwise, seeing that it is composed -of white wine, Eau de vie, citrons, a little sugar, and bread crumbs.” -And then follows the observation: “If water were put instead of Eau -de vie, with an equal quantity of wine, a citron, and four ounces of -sugar, a liqueur suitable to every one would be the result, a liqueur -which would do as much good as the other does harm.”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_99" href="#FNanchor_99" class="label">[99]</a> Such at least is the signification of <i>sangaree</i> as far as American -drinks are concerned. But <i>Sang-gris</i> is said by Bescherelle to be a -mixture of tea in wine amongst the sailors of the North. Perhaps -the name is taken from the colour. It recalls David Garrick’s -“Why, the tea is as red as blood.” In the West Indies it is made of -Madeira, water, lime juice, and sugar. Spices are sometimes added. -Pinckard’s “West Indies,” i. 469.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_100" href="#FNanchor_100" class="label">[100]</a> <i>Shrub</i> is called <i>santa</i> in Jamaica. It is made in the West -Indies with rum, syrup, and orange-peel.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_101" href="#FNanchor_101" class="label">[101]</a> The Slang Dictionary, however, defines <i>Sling</i> as a drink peculiar -to Americans, generally composed of gin, soda-water, ice, and slices -of lemon. At some houses (understand public) in London <i>gin -slings</i> may be obtained. Francatelli has an exquisite note on <i>Gin -Sling</i>, which he directs to be sucked through a straw. “I fear that -very genteel persons will be exceedingly shocked at my words; but -when I tell them that the very act of imbibition through a straw -prevents the gluttonous absorption of large and baneful quantities -of drink, they will, I make no doubt, accept the vulgar precept for -the sake of its protection against sudden inebriety.”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_102" href="#FNanchor_102" class="label">[102]</a> Aromatic tincture: Ginger, cinnamon, orange peel, each 1 oz.; -valerian, ½ oz.; alcohol, 2 quarts. Macerate for fourteen days and -filter through unsized paper.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_103" href="#FNanchor_103" class="label">[103]</a> Those who wish to investigate the antiquity of beer may find -ample matter to supply their desire in a work commonly attributed -to Archdeacon Rolleston, entitled, “Οινος Κριθινος, <i>a dissertation -concerning the origin and antiquity of barley wine</i>.” Oxford, 1750.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_104" href="#FNanchor_104" class="label">[104]</a> Much has been written on the comparative merits of wine and -beer. Perhaps as good a remark as any on this subject was made by -a modern tradesman who, wishing to sell both, explained that, while -strongly advocating the introduction of wine, he did not at all intend -to depreciate the merits of our national beverage, beer. Where, he -continued, plenty of out-door exercise is taken, and little intellectual -effort is demanded, good beer is perhaps the most wholesome of all -drinks; and therefore he advised the “labouring man,” who could -not probably afford to buy wine, to drink beer, while others, who -might be supposed able to afford wine, were warned that they could -not drink beer with impunity.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_105" href="#FNanchor_105" class="label">[105]</a> The world has little altered since the time of Martial (i. 19).</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent6">“<i>scelus est jugulare Falernum,</i></div> - <div class="verse indent0"><i>Et dare Campano toxica sæva mero.</i>”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_106" href="#FNanchor_106" class="label">[106]</a> This is the sweet potato, introduced into Europe before the -common potato.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_107" href="#FNanchor_107" class="label">[107]</a> For an interesting account of this, vid., Dr., Charnock’s <i>Verba -Nominalia</i>.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_108" href="#FNanchor_108" class="label">[108]</a> <i>Beajus</i>, which in Malay signifies a wild man.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_109" href="#FNanchor_109" class="label">[109]</a> Roggewein’s <i>Voyage Round the World</i>.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_110" href="#FNanchor_110" class="label">[110]</a> According to Kotzebue, old women chew, as in the South -American <i>chica</i>—let us hope this cannot be correct—and little -girls spit on it to thin the paste. Kotzebue’s <i>New Voyage Round -the World</i>, vol. ii., p. 170.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_111" href="#FNanchor_111" class="label">[111]</a> From the old French <i>Pallir</i>, to become vapid, lose spirit. -Washy stuff.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_112" href="#FNanchor_112" class="label">[112]</a> See second part of <i>Westminster Drollery</i>, 1672.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_113" href="#FNanchor_113" class="label">[113]</a> General Monk’s receipt is given in the <i>Harleian Miscellany</i>, i., -524. London, 1744.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_114" href="#FNanchor_114" class="label">[114]</a> “Mum’s the word,” etc.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_115" href="#FNanchor_115" class="label">[115]</a> <i>Der Bierbrauer</i>, Prag., 1874.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_116" href="#FNanchor_116" class="label">[116]</a> Hamilton’s <i>Account of Nepaul</i>.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_117" href="#FNanchor_117" class="label">[117]</a> Pinckard’s <i>Notes</i>, p. 429.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_118" href="#FNanchor_118" class="label">[118]</a> Robertson’s <i>History of America</i>, ii., 7.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_119" href="#FNanchor_119" class="label">[119]</a> This is the beverage in general use. Titsingh’s <i>Japan</i>. Some -writers have connected it with our “<i>sack</i>.”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_120" href="#FNanchor_120" class="label">[120]</a> When cold, it is said to produce <i>serki</i>, a species of fatal colic.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_121" href="#FNanchor_121" class="label">[121]</a> For this list we are indebted to the courtesy of Messrs. Gow, -Wilson & Stanton, 13, Rood Lane, London, E.C.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_122" href="#FNanchor_122" class="label">[122]</a> Messrs. William, James & Henry Thompson, 38, Mincing Lane -London.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_123" href="#FNanchor_123" class="label">[123]</a> Messrs. Gow, Wilson & Stanton.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_124" href="#FNanchor_124" class="label">[124]</a> In September, 1890, a small parcel of Flowering Pekoe fetched, -at public sale, 36<i>s.</i> per lb., and this price has been largely exceeded -on former occasions.</p> - -<p>“A parcel of tea from the Oriental Bank Estates Company’s -Havilland Estate in Ceylon was sold at auction in Mincing Lane -yesterday for £17 per lb., or over one guinea an ounce.”—<i>Standard</i>, -May 6th, 1891.</p> - -<p>“A small lot of Golden Tip Ceylon tea from the Gartmore Estate -was sold by auction in Mincing Lane yesterday to the Mazawattee -Ceylon Tea Company at £25 <i>10s.</i> per lb.”—<i>Standard</i>, May 8th, -1891.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_125" href="#FNanchor_125" class="label">[125]</a> Messrs. Wm. Jas. and Hy. Thompson.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_126" href="#FNanchor_126" class="label">[126]</a> <i>Joannis Petri Maffeii Bergomatis, e Societate Jesu, Historiarum -Indicarum</i>, etc. <i>Florentiæ</i>, 1588.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_127" href="#FNanchor_127" class="label">[127]</a> <i>Delle Cause della grandezza delle Città</i>, etc., del Giovanni -Botero. <i>Milano</i>, ed. 1596, p. 61.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_128" href="#FNanchor_128" class="label">[128]</a> <i>Divers Voyages et Missions du P. Alexandre de Rhodes, en la -Chine, & autres Royaumes de l’Orient</i>, etc. <i>Paris</i>, 1653, p. 49.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_129" href="#FNanchor_129" class="label">[129]</a> Catharine of Braganza, wife of Charles II.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_130" href="#FNanchor_130" class="label">[130]</a> Portugal.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_131" href="#FNanchor_131" class="label">[131]</a> The Works of Thomas Brown, ed. 1708, vol. iii., p. 86.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_132" href="#FNanchor_132" class="label">[132]</a> His friend Tyers parodied the last phrase as “<i>te</i> inviente die, -<i>te</i> decedente.”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_133" href="#FNanchor_133" class="label">[133]</a> <i>Relation du voyage de la Mer du Sud, aux côtes du Chily, et du -Pérou, fait pendant les années 1712, 13, 14</i>, par Amédée François -Frezier. <i>Paris</i>, 1716, 4ᵒ.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_134" href="#FNanchor_134" class="label">[134]</a> <i>Joyfull Newes out of the newe founde Worlde</i>, etc. Englished, -by Jhon Frampton, <i>Marchaunt</i>, 1577, fol 101 b.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_135" href="#FNanchor_135" class="label">[135]</a> Garden beds in which seeds are planted.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_136" href="#FNanchor_136" class="label">[136]</a> Lima.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_137" href="#FNanchor_137" class="label">[137]</a> Tschudi travelled in Peru, 1838-1842.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_138" href="#FNanchor_138" class="label">[138]</a> <i>Travels in Peru</i>, by C. R. Markham, 1862, p. 237.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_139" href="#FNanchor_139" class="label">[139]</a> In 1861, the cesto of Coca sold at 8 dollars in Sandia. In -Huanaco it was 5 dollars the aroba of 25 lbs.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_140" href="#FNanchor_140" class="label">[140]</a> Ed. 1879, p. 363.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_141" href="#FNanchor_141" class="label">[141]</a> <i>A Description of the Coasts of North and South Guinea, etc., by -John Barbot, etc. Now first printed from his original MS., 1732.</i></p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_142" href="#FNanchor_142" class="label">[142]</a> Part 2, Section 5.—Mem. 1, Sub. 5.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_143" href="#FNanchor_143" class="label">[143]</a> For a list of 500 Coffee Houses, see Appendix to <i>Social Life in -the Reign of Queen Anne</i>, by John Ashton.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_144" href="#FNanchor_144" class="label">[144]</a> <i>Memoirs and Observations in his Travels over England</i>, etc.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_145" href="#FNanchor_145" class="label">[145]</a> <i>A Brief Description of the excellent Vertues of that Sober and -Wholesome Drink called Coffee.</i> 1674, s. sh. fol.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_146" href="#FNanchor_146" class="label">[146]</a> <i>The Mineral Water Maker’s Manual for 1866</i>, from which -many receipts are taken with thanks.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_147" href="#FNanchor_147" class="label">[147]</a> Twaddell’s Hydrometer. From 11 to 12 lbs. sugar to the -gallon should give something near this specific gravity.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_148" href="#FNanchor_148" class="label">[148]</a> A sufficient quantity.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_149" href="#FNanchor_149" class="label">[149]</a> About 8½ lbs. loaf sugar to the gallon of water should produce -this S. G.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_150" href="#FNanchor_150" class="label">[150]</a> An extract made from orange flowers.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_151" href="#FNanchor_151" class="label">[151]</a> Or Butyric Ether, known as Essence of Pine-apple.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_152" href="#FNanchor_152" class="label">[152]</a> Jargonelle Ether.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_153" href="#FNanchor_153" class="label">[153]</a> Beware, however, of one compound ether, which gives the taste -of cinnamon, and is, Ethyl Perchlorate. This mixture is <i>explosive</i>!!!</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_154" href="#FNanchor_154" class="label">[154]</a> Raspberries.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_155" href="#FNanchor_155" class="label">[155]</a> The form of this thanksgiving is very nearly akin to that said -on the occasion of eating any of the five kinds of cooked food from -which the <i>challah</i> is due.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_156" href="#FNanchor_156" class="label">[156]</a> Arist., <i>Metaph.</i>, i., 3.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_157" href="#FNanchor_157" class="label">[157]</a> Seneca, <i>Nat. Quæst.</i>, iii., 13.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_158" href="#FNanchor_158" class="label">[158]</a> <i>Ibid.</i>, iv., 13.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_159" href="#FNanchor_159" class="label">[159]</a> Pliny, <i>Nat. Hist.</i>, xxiii., 24.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_160" href="#FNanchor_160" class="label">[160]</a> p. 220.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_161" href="#FNanchor_161" class="label">[161]</a> Other authorities concerning this remarkable drinking fountain -are Nieremberg (<i>Occult. Philos.</i>, ii., 350), Clavijo, Cairasio, and -Dapper.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_162" href="#FNanchor_162" class="label">[162]</a> <i>Harper’s New Monthly Magazine</i>, xi., p. 499.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_163" href="#FNanchor_163" class="label">[163]</a> The mushroom used by the Chukchees is described by Lansdell, -<i>Through Siberia</i>, ii., 269, as “spotted like a leopard, and surmounted -by a small hood—the fly agaric, which here has the top -scarlet, flecked with white points. It sells for three or four reindeer.” -So powerful is the fungus that the native who eats it remains drunk -for several days. Half a dozen persons may be successively intoxicated -by a single mushroom, but every one in a less degree than his -predecessor. Goldsmith, <i>Chinese Philosopher</i>.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_164" href="#FNanchor_164" class="label">[164]</a> Another description is, “Ale mixed with pepper and honey.”</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_165" href="#FNanchor_165" class="label">[165]</a></p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">Quem quicunque parum moderato gutture traxit,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Haud aliter turbat quam si mera vina bibisset.</div> - </div> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse right">—Ovid, <i>Metam.</i>, xv., 329.</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_166" href="#FNanchor_166" class="label">[166]</a> The Hindustani گهي.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_167" href="#FNanchor_167" class="label">[167]</a> A corruption of the Turkish يوغرت <i>Yughurt</i>.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_168" href="#FNanchor_168" class="label">[168]</a> Lockman’s <i>Travels of the Jesuits</i>, i., 218.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_169" href="#FNanchor_169" class="label">[169]</a> P. Alex. de Rhodes, <i>Voyages et Missions</i>. P. de Marini, <i>On the -Kingdom of Tonquin</i>.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_170" href="#FNanchor_170" class="label">[170]</a> A word which, according to the <i>Glossarium Suiogothicum</i>, originally -meant simply bread and butter. It now comprehends anchovies -and other antepasts.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_171" href="#FNanchor_171" class="label">[171]</a> So called probably from its being overgrown with fennel -(μαραθρῶν in Strabo, 160).</p> - -</div> - -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DRINKS OF THE WORLD ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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