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-The Project Gutenberg eBook of Condiments, Spices and Flavors, by Anonymous
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
-will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
-using this eBook.
-
-Title: Condiments, Spices and Flavors
-
-Author: Anonymous
-
-Release Date: September 13, 2021 [eBook #66284]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-Produced by: Charlene Taylor, Les Galloway and the Online Distributed
-             Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
-             produced from images generously made available by The Internet
-             Archive/American Libraries.)
-
-*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CONDIMENTS, SPICES AND FLAVORS ***
-
-
-                          Transcriber’s Notes
-
-Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected.
-
-Italics are represented thus _italic_.
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: a sprig of herb]
-
-                           Condiments
-                            Spices and ...
-                              ... Flavors
-
-=Condiments, if properly used, assure digestion and hasten the
-absorption of food by the system.—THEODORE CHILD.=
-
-
-
-
-  COPYRIGHT, 1894, BY
-  MARY E. GREEN, M. D.
-
-
-
-
-                                PREFACE
-
-
-In this pamphlet no attempt has been made to give specific directions
-as to the uses of spices and condiments. It must be borne in mind
-that their usage results neither from the demands of fashion nor of a
-vitiated sense of taste, but from their own germicidal and preservative
-qualities. From the spiced and perfumed mummies of the Pharaohs to
-the spiced apple and pickled pear of our own store-rooms, the same
-reason for the use of spices exists—their antiseptic qualities. A short
-account of the divers kinds and qualities of these excellent substances
-may lead, it is hoped, to a more intelligent use of them in cookery.
-Nothing has been said about adulteration, for, while most of the
-adulterants of spices are harmless, still, fraud lies in the fact that
-the buyer pays a high price for an article part of which is worthless.
-As every housewife cannot be her own chemist, her safeguard lies in
-buying only of reliable spice houses.
-
-
-
-
-                    CONDIMENTS, SPICES AND FLAVORS.
-
-
-A Maxim as ancient as the time of Democritus of Abdera
-reads: “Whatever pleases the palate nourishes.” Modern science has
-proven the truth of this maxim and has given us acceptable reason why
-condiments are no more necessary in palace of connoisseur than in hut
-of barbarian, why they are as eagerly used by the native of Labrador
-as by the swarthy son of the tropics; why they are the property of
-Mohammedan, Confucian, Buddhist, Gentile and Jew, of all castes, races
-and civilizations. Acting principally upon the nervous system through
-the sense of smell, condiments stimulate the flow of both the saliva
-and gastric juices. They materially aid digestion, and the familiar
-phrase, “to make the mouth water,” states a physiological fact.
-From this standpoint the fragrant aroma of steaming coffee and the
-savory odor of a stew are as truly condiments as pepper and salt; for
-condiments are the magic wand which transforms most commonplace of
-foods into essences, subtle and delicious. They are equally appropriate
-to the steaming _potage_ of the French peasant and the sacrificial
-altars of Palestine and Greece. Nothing more closely tests the skill
-of the cook than his use of these appetizing flavors. Like genii of
-the fairy tale, they are willing, versatile and obedient as slaves;
-when master their pathway is strewn with sorrowful though most aromatic
-wrecks of soups and _hors d’œuvres_. They should permeate food as
-incense does the atmosphere, delicate, impalpable and as indescribable
-as they are requisite. The too abundant use of a certain condiment
-or spice, the lack of another or the injudicious mingling of certain
-others will ruin the finest pudding, sauce or soup ever compounded.
-
-Condiments and spices are as ancient as civilization. The oldest books
-of the scriptures, notably Exodus, Leviticus, Job and the Canticles,
-make frequent reference to salt and spices, substances which were
-then costly, chiefly dedicated to royalty and the uses of temple and
-altar. The Greeks followed the Semitic customs to some extent in their
-disposition of spices, not using them as largely in their food as have
-later races. They were fond of aromatic flavorings and it is said that
-the laurels of Greece, of which the cinnamon is a species, possessed
-that quality to a greater extent than those of any other country,
-although all laurels have aromatic leaves.
-
-Homer in the Iliad refers with naïve surprise to those people
-unaccustomed to the use of salt, and in the ninth book pictures
-Patroclus as
-
-    “He strews a bed of glowing embers wide,
-    Above the coals the smoking fragments turns,
-    And sprinkles sacred salt upon the urns.”
-
-By the mediæval Romans condiments were well liked. They made, according
-to one author, a pickle from the tunny fish, just as their languorous
-descendants are doing to-day, and also prepared a condiment from the
-intestines of the mackerel. “Liver of the capon, steeped in milk and
-beccaficoes, and dressed with pepper” was another of their highly
-seasoned dishes.
-
-In the thirteenth century Dante, in the description of the alchemists
-and forgers of the tenth gulf of the Inferno, referred to one Niccolo
-of Sienna, “who first the spice’s luxury discovered.” Contemporary with
-him in England, William Langland, in his “Vision of Piers the Plowman,”
-inquired if thou “hast in thy purse any hot spices?”
-
-Frequent reference by the writers of that day indicates that these
-substances were expensive and used mainly by the luxurious. Venice had
-for many years controlled the trade in spices, which were brought
-overland from the Orient in immense caravans, and not until Diaz and
-Vasco de Gama, in the fifteenth century, rounded the cape of Good Hope
-did their costliness diminish. After that event spices and condiments
-ceased to be regarded merely as luxuries and became as necessary to the
-plainest of soups as to the _Puree de volaille a la Bearnise_ of the
-French chef.
-
-All classes of people use condiments in some form, from the wealthy
-epicure who flavors his terrapin with mace, salt, pepper, and sherry
-to the negro who sifts okra through his fingers into his gumbo soup or
-the Indian, stirring the contents of a steaming kettle with twigs of
-sassafras.
-
-Condiments have been defined as those substances eaten with meat
-and combined with salt while spices are chiefly added to articles
-containing sugar. They may be classified as follows:
-
-
-            {           { Clove, cinnamon, cassia-bud, pimento or
-            {           { allspice, nutmeg, mace, cardamon, pepper,
-            {           { cumin, coriander, fenugreek, grains of
-            { AROMATICS { Paradise, anise, dill, caraway, basil, chervil,
-            {           { celery, fennel, bay-leaves, summer savory,
-            {           { parsley, thyme, sage, sweet marjoram,
-  VEGETABLE {           { mint, tarragon, onion, leek, garlic, saffron,
-            {           { capers, turmeric and curry powder.
-            {
-            {           { Mustard,
-            {  PUNGENT  { horse-radish,
-            { AROMATICS { ginger,
-            {           { chilies (cayenne pepper).
-
-
-  MINERAL  { Salt.
-
-  ANIMAL   { Pastes and essences of shrimp, lobster, bloater, anchovy,
-           {  etc.
-  SAUCES   { Chutney, tabasco, lime juice, Worcestershire, ketchup,
-           { carachi, cassareep and soy.
-
-  PICKLES  { Various vegetables and fruits, such as cucumber, olive,
-           { samphire, etc.
-
-  FLAVORS  { Vanilla, tonka bean, almond, chocolate, orange and
-           { various fruits.
-
-  ACIDS    { Vinegar, lime juice, verjuice.
-
-  CORDIALS { Curaçoa, Noyau, Ratafia, anisette, kümmel, absinthe,
-           { Chartreuse, Maraschino, etc.
-
-Salt is even more valuable as a condiment than as a preservative. It
-is used in every staple article of cookery and, as has been said,
-“Plutarch was right when he styled salt the condiment of condiments.”
-Cereals and vegetables are tasteless without the addition of that
-mysterious quantity, “a pinch of salt,” bread is insipid without a
-dash of it, as also are meats and puddings. Meats, when so cooked that
-their own salts are not extracted, as when roasted, are more palatable
-without additional salt than any other food so prepared.
-
-Though salt is unused because unattainable by certain barbaric peoples,
-such as the Bedouins, it is considered to be a necessity by all others.
-Aristotle relates that in Greece a salt spring was believed to be a
-direct gift of the gods, salt always comprising part of the religious
-offerings. Salt is referred to in the scriptures more than a score of
-times. In Leviticus we find the command that “every oblation of thy
-meat offering shall be seasoned with salt.” In Job occurs the question
-“can that which is unsavory be eaten without salt?” The Biblical
-comparison to salt which has lost its savor refers to the custom
-still retained in Oriental countries of adulterating with earth the
-salt which finds its way to the extremely poor, who cannot pay the
-original high price. So costly was salt in the ancient world that the
-old caravan routes were first formed for traffic in this article. The
-“Salarian Way” of Rome was so named because of its immense commerce in
-salt and to this day the trade route across the Sahara is by this means
-mainly supported. Recently, the salt beds of Europe and the salt mines
-and wells of the western hemisphere have made this article so abundant
-that its cheapness effectually protects it from adulteration.
-
-[Illustration: Clove.]
-
-Cloves are the unexpanded flowers of an evergreen tree found in the
-East Indies and indigenous to the Molucca Islands. They are called by
-the Chinese “fragrant nails” owing to the peculiar shape of the dried
-clove buds, and the English word is derived from the Latin _clavus_,
-and French _clou_, also meaning nail. It is doubtful if cloves were
-known to the Greeks or Romans, the Venetians having first obtained them
-from the Arabians, while the clove trade was later monopolized by the
-Portuguese. Then it was owned by the Dutch who expelled the Portuguese
-from the Spice Islands in 1605. The Dutch made great effort to control
-the entire spice trade of these islands, which was a source of abundant
-wealth, and were even known to furnish the market with the adulterated
-article, the oil of clove being extracted by pressure and the buds
-being given a fresh appearance by a glaze of olive oil. They also
-preserve the mother clove, or fully developed fruit. This resembles the
-olive in appearance and, being less pungent in flavor than the bud,
-makes a dainty sweetmeat. The clove tree is not hardy and grows best
-when planted in loamy soil, sheltered from the winds by the hills. It
-has been introduced into the West Indies and Guiana. Cloves from the
-Moluccas and Ceylon are more valuable, being richer in oil, darker in
-color and far more aromatic.
-
-Cinnamon is the inner bark of a tree allied to the laurels. It is
-indigenous to Ceylon and the Penang Islands although believed by
-some authorities to have originally come from China, where it has
-flourished since the remotest times. As it is mentioned in the Old
-Testament it is conjectured that the Hebrews obtained it from the
-Arabians who in turn procured it from India. Later it was mentioned by
-Herodotus. It is known that Hippocrates used cinnamon medicinally and
-the modern medical world has but recently made the discovery that oil
-of cinnamon is a valuable antiseptic and germicide. Not until 1506 was
-cinnamon discovered wild in Ceylon and not until 1770 was it improved
-by cultivation. The tree grows to a height of twenty and occasionally
-thirty feet, although, as the bark from the young shoots is of finer
-flavor, that only is used. Cinnamon shrubs are cultivated in fields,
-the finest being located in the region of Colombo, Ceylon. The shoots,
-which grow in clusters of from four to ten, are cut to the roots twice
-a year, after the rains. The epidermis is peeled off, the bark is put
-up in bundles about forty inches long and thus dried and marketed.
-Three grades are exported, the finest, thin, of a brownish yellow
-color, fragrant and sweet of odor and correspondingly high of price. It
-is also adulterated with cassia bark, a cheaper production.
-
-Cassia is the inner bark of a species of cinnamon called Chinese
-cinnamon or _cassia lignea_. The greater part of it is exported from
-China. The bark is put up in bundles about half the length of cinnamon
-bark and is more pungent and less sweet of flavor. Cassia buds are the
-unripened fruits of the tree which produces Chinese cassia. In shape
-and size they resemble cloves, in aroma, cinnamon, and are usually
-preserved whole for sweetmeats or spices. Cassia is mentioned by Moses
-as an ingredient of the holy oil, in Psalms as a perfume and in Ezekiel
-as a spice.
-
-Allspice, sometimes called Jamaica pepper and properly, _pimento_,
-is native to the Island of Jamaica and has not been successfully
-cultivated outside of the West Indies. The pimento tree is an evergreen
-of the myrtlebloom family, all of which are exotic trees, and reaches a
-height of thirty feet. The allspice of commerce consists of the berries
-of this tree, exported whole after being dried, and so called because
-their aroma resembles that of cloves, cinnamon, juniper and nutmeg. The
-berries are gathered when green, being left on the twigs until dried by
-the sun, by which means all the essential oil is retained.
-
-[Illustration: Cassia Buds.]
-
-[Illustration: Nutmeg.]
-
-Nutmeg is the kernel of the fruit of an exotic evergreen tree native
-to the Banda and other of the East Indian islands. In appearance it
-resembles the orange, yielding fruit when eight or nine years of
-age and bearing for fifty or sixty years. It requires a light soil,
-moisture and shade, and cannot be propagated in regions in which
-these conditions are not present. The tree bears fruit during most
-of the year, in the Molucca and other islands three crops a year
-being gathered. The fruit, which requires nine months in which to
-mature, is carefully dried before the pericarp is removed and the
-kernel taken out. There are three varieties, the male or barren, the
-royal and the queen, the last, a small, round nutmeg, considered most
-valuable. The inferior nutmegs are used for the extraction of nutmeg
-butter or oil, known as “oil of mace.” About six per cent of volatile
-oil is contained. It is stated that more nutmegs are exported to the
-United States than to all Europe. The Dutch formerly preserved the
-entire fruit, kernel and pericarp, in a syrup of sweet vinegar for a
-sweetmeat. This nation when in control of the spice trade of certain of
-the East Indian islands made strenuous efforts to confine the nutmeg
-tree to the Bandas. But the “nutmeg bird,” a species of blue pigeon,
-frustrated their designs by scattering the nuts all over the islands
-after feeding upon their pulpy covering. So determined at one time were
-the Dutch to keep the price of nutmegs high that, if an unusually large
-harvest occurred, part of it was burned by them.
-
-Mace is the reticulated aril covering the kernel. When fresh, it is of
-a crimson color, reaching the golden tint only when dried and after
-some months. In its properties it is similar to the nutmeg. The leaves
-of the nutmeg tree as well as the fruit are highly aromatic.
-
-The cardamon is a member of the ginger family and is native to Malabar,
-Madagascar and Ceylon. That from the latter country is of quite large
-size. It consists of a rhizome or root stock from which rise tall,
-flag-like leaves. The flower stem springs directly from the root and is
-much shorter, bearing racemiform clusters of small white flowers. The
-fruit consists of greenish pods half an inch in length, each pod being
-three capsuled and containing numerous seeds. These seeds are pungent
-in flavor and constitute the valuable part of the plant. The pods are
-dried slowly as rapid drying causes them to split, thereby losing the
-seeds. Cardamon seeds were used by the ancient Greeks both as a spice
-and as medicine.
-
-Pepper, with cinnamon, salt and incense, was one of the staple
-commodities which anciently passed over the caravan routes between
-Venice and India. At that time its price was extremely high and,
-according to E. M. Holmes, rents were frequently paid in this article
-as late as the middle ages. After the sack of Rome by the barbarians
-one of the articles of tribute demanded by Alaric was a thousand pounds
-of pepper. As late as the eighteenth century the pepper trade was
-confined to the Portuguese. In recent years it has become one of the
-cheapest of our spices.
-
-[Illustration: Round Pepper.]
-
-The pepper plant is a vine, of the order _piperaceæ_, which grows
-wild in China, is also indigenous to Malabar and other islands of
-the East Indies, and has been introduced into the West Indies. The
-plants require a rich moist soil, bearing after the fourth year and
-continuing fruitful for from eight to fourteen years. The most famous
-of the pepper islands are the Penang, which furnish more than half
-the amount produced by the entire East Indies. Only the berries of
-the pepper plant are valuable and these, being gathered before fully
-developed, have a wrinkled appearance when dried. The berries used for
-white pepper are decorticated either in the islands or in London and
-reach the United States ready for grinding. The finest grade passes
-through more than twenty different operations before it is considered
-marketable.
-
-Black pepper differs from the white in the leaving on of the hull,
-which is black and contains the acrid principles of the flavor. Hence,
-white pepper is less pungent and fully as fine in flavor as the black.
-Shot pepper consists of the finest berries, those richest in oil. It is
-selected by throwing a quantity of the berries in water. Those which
-sink are collected, labeled, and sold as shot pepper.
-
-Long pepper, referred to by the Greeks as _piperi macron_, is the
-unripe fruit of a species of pepper, an inch or more in length and and
-shaped like a spike. The flavor is similar to that of ordinary black
-pepper. African pepper is another variety. Those best known to the
-western markets are Penang, Tellicherry and Malabar.
-
-Cumin or cummin is a small herbaceous plant, native to Egypt and very
-early cultivated in the Mediterranean countries. It is now grown in
-India, Sicily and Malta, the seeds only being valuable. These contain
-a large proportion of essential oil which gives them an aromatic but
-acrid flavor. They are not now used in cookery though receipts are
-still extant which prove them to have once been considered a valuable
-culinary spice. The Latin poets relate that the ancients used cumin
-seeds medicinally, their effect being to produce languor. They are
-referred to in Isaiah as being “beaten out with a rod” and also in the
-Mosaic law regarding tithes.
-
-Coriander is a small umbelliferous plant native to the eastern of the
-Mediterranean countries but now cultivated quite generally in both
-Europe and America. The fruits, erroneously called the seeds, are
-nearly always mentioned in the earlier recipes for meats and puddings
-and to this day many a country housewife considers them indispensable
-to the flavoring of dried apple pies. The plant grows wild in all parts
-of Palestine, especially in the Jordan valley.
-
-[Illustration: Coriander.]
-
-Fenugreek is an herbaceous plant allied to the clover. It is native to
-the Asiatic countries and is still cultivated in France and Germany.
-The seeds were formerly used as a spice, but now only as an ingredient
-of curry powder, owing to their strong, bitter and unpleasant flavor.
-
-Grains of Paradise are the dried seeds of a reed-like plant allied to
-the ginger family and indigenous to western Africa. The fruit which
-contains the seeds is four or five inches in length and of a bright red
-color. The seed are now never used, excepting occasionally by brewers.
-Formerly they were esteemed as a spice for cookery and were one of
-the ingredients of the famous Norwich herring pies of old England. In
-flavor they are extremely hot and pungent.
-
-Anise is a little annual of the order umbelliferæ and scarcely more
-than a foot in height. It is indigenous to Europe, although cultivated
-in many of the northern Mediterranean countries. The seeds are powerful
-aromatics, used both medicinally and in the preparation of a _liqueur_
-called “anisette,” which is to the Italians what kümmel is to the
-Germans. The star anise is a tree allied to the magnolias, the seeds of
-which are stronger and less pleasant of flavor than those of the common
-anise. They are called star aniseed from the star-like shape of the
-fruit. The anise mentioned in the New Testament as part of the tithes
-is a different plant, believed to be dill.
-
-Dill is a small herb, native to Spain, which produces umbelliferous
-stalks of yellow flowers. It is still cultivated in portions of
-temperate Europe. An aromatic oil is extracted from the tiny seeds
-which are also used, whole, for flavoring pickles.
-
-[Illustration: Caraway.]
-
-Caraway is also an umbelliferous plant growing wild in the meadows
-and pastures of both Europe and Asia. It is cultivated for its mildly
-aromatic seeds, although in the northern countries of Europe the root,
-which resembles the parsnip, is also eaten. No aromatic of temperate
-climates is more common than the dainty, white-blooming plant growing
-in the kitchen gardens of both hemispheres. Its seeds are used for the
-spicing of cheese, cakes and candies, and in Germany in the rye bread
-called “kümmel-brod,” which is universally eaten. The seeds are also
-used in the making of an aromatic cordial called “kümmel.”
-
-Basil is not now used as extensively in cooking as formerly. Its native
-haunts are India and Persia, although since it yields gracefully to
-culture, it is to be found in many old-fashioned kitchen gardens. Its
-aromatic properties are similar to those of other garden herbs.
-
-[Illustration: Basil.]
-
-Chervil is an umbelliferous annual possessing aromatic leaves and
-somewhat resembling parsley in flavor. It is used in Europe as a
-pot-herb for soups and stews, but is chiefly known in America as one of
-the obsolete delicacies which deserve to be still popular. The root,
-which is fleshy and fusiform in shape, is cooked and eaten by the
-people of southern Europe.
-
-Celery is a veritable plebeian, originally growing wild in the ditches
-and fens of Europe, a coarse, offensive and poisonous vegetable. Few
-plants are so susceptible to the influences of cultivation and it is
-difficult to recognize its unaristocratic prototype in the tender,
-white and aromatic stalks of the garden product. It belongs to the
-parsley family and every portion is useful to the cook, from the
-daintily curled tops which may be used for both flavor and garnish, the
-stalks which may be eaten plain, dressed raw in salad or cooked, to the
-seeds, the flavor of which makes even the poorest of soups relishable.
-The seeds are now commonly ground for the making of “celery salt” or
-“celery pepper,” as the same product is variously called. A variety of
-celery, called _celeriac_, is cultivated in certain European countries,
-notably Germany, the root only, which is large and fleshy, being eaten.
-The famous “wild celery” of Chesapeake Bay is simply “eelgrass,” an
-aquatic plant which bears no relationship whatever to the umbelliferæ,
-of which order celery is a species.
-
-Fennel is an umbelliferous plant, native to portions of temperate
-Europe and Asia, especially Portugal. The fruits possess an aromatic
-flavor while the tender shoots are used for salad. The plant and
-its culinary value was well known to the Romans, and it is to-day
-cultivated in both Europe and America. The fruits of the European
-fennel are used in the making of an aromatic drink, while in America
-the plant is chiefly cultivated for its leaves. It has been said that
-fennel is to fish what mint is to lamb, and in certain of the southern
-states mackerel is considered of too strong a flavor to be eaten unless
-cooked with fennel. The fennel thus used grows wild, the green leaves
-being tied in bunches and boiled with the fish.
-
-Bay leaves are the leaves of a shrub belonging to the laurel tribe,
-which grows wild in the Mediterranean countries. Among the Greeks the
-bay leaf was consecrated to the uses of poetry, heroism and religion.
-Not until later times was it used as a flavoring for foods and for the
-decoration of various dishes. It grows wild in certain of the southern
-states but the leaves are usually exported from Europe, dried. The
-leaves are used in soups, stews and pickles and, although the average
-housewife finds it next to impossible to procure them, scarcely a
-recipe for these articles of food but includes bay leaves among its
-flavorings.
-
-[Illustration: Bay Leaves.]
-
-Summer savory is a hardy little annual which has long grown wild in
-southern Europe and is now largely cultivated for culinary use. Both
-the summer and winter savories are fragrant and are valuable in the
-seasoning of sausages and gravies.
-
-Parsley is a native of the island of Sardinia and, having been improved
-in both fragrance and appearance by culture, is more valuable than
-any other herb for the garnishing of dishes. Its curled, crisp, green
-leaves give the poorest salad or meat a tempting appearance, well
-sustained by the fineness of flavor it imparts. Its flavor somewhat
-resembles that of celery. The little herb may be seen in nearly
-every garden during the summer months and often in a pot, or kitchen
-window-box during the winter, from which it may be plucked fresh
-daily. The experienced cook would part with any other half dozen
-condiments more willingly than with parsley. The plant belongs to the
-_umbelliferæ_, which order includes the carrot, parsnip and celery. It
-is said to have come originally from Egypt and mythology represents
-Hercules as adorning his head with its curled leaves.
-
-Thyme, a little under shrub native to the Mediterranean countries, is
-allied botanically to sage, summer savory and sweet basil. It possesses
-very small leaves and whorls of tiny, lilac-colored flowers, from
-which thymol or oil of thyme, a valuable germicide, is distilled. In
-flavor it is fragrant and aromatic and it may be readily cultivated in
-gardens. The wild thyme of our banks “where ox-lips and the nodding
-violet grows,” is a different variety of the same order. Its name is
-derived from the Greek word _thumos_, meaning incense or perfume.
-
-[Illustration: Thyme.]
-
-Sage is a small plant of the order _labiatæ_, and is native to
-southern Europe. It has been so greatly changed by cultivation that
-little semblance of the original plant now remains in the sage of our
-gardens excepting the flavor. It was known to the ancients and to-day
-its fragrant, grayish green leaves constitute one of our commonest
-flavorings.
-
-It was an Englishman who once said that “mint made lamb out of an old
-sheep”! Perhaps he loved it also because of the legend that it once
-existed in the form of a beautiful maiden, transformed by Persephone
-into the modest aromatic of our gardens. The mint designated is that
-member of the labiate family known as spear mint, native to Europe
-but grown in all portions of the United States and largely marketed.
-It is a small, green herb, the leaves being highly aromatic and, when
-bruised, yielding a valuable essential oil. It is equally liked in the
-mint sauce so indispensable to mutton and the mint-julep—
-
-            “This cordial julep here,
-    That flames and dances in his crystal bounds.”
-
-[Illustration: Mint.]
-
-Sweet marjoram grows wild in Spain and Portugal and, in a cultivated
-state, throughout Europe and the United States. It is a member of the
-mint family and, like spear mint, possesses aromatic leaves.
-
-Tarragon is a small, aromatic herb, native to Liberia. It is cultivated
-in Europe and is the _estragon_ of the French, who use the young plants
-largely for salads. It is hardy, and is grown extensively in America,
-being used for flavoring vinegar, mustard and pickles. Tarragon
-vinegar, from the excellence of its flavor, should have a place in
-every household.
-
-[Illustration: Tarragon.]
-
-The onion is believed to have originated in Egypt although it was known
-in very early times in India. In the former country it was worshiped as
-a deity. “Cucumbers, and the melons, and the leeks, and the onions, and
-the garlick” formed the daily food of the Israelites in Egypt. Italy
-and Spain are now noted for the immense size of the onions grown there,
-as also are the Bermuda Islands. Those of the latter place possess a
-far milder flavor, a condition due to soil and climate. The flavor of
-onion, when strong, is unpleasant to some people to a nauseating degree
-and it is hard to see in it any resemblance to its dainty cousins,
-the lily and the hyacinth. But when skillfully used it is a valuable
-and wholesome culinary condiment and is more largely employed by the
-average cook than the uninitiated ever suspect. Says one author: “The
-onion is the sheet anchor of the skillful cook. It is impossible to
-prepare the delicate Bordelaise sauce without resorting to the use of
-onions and a shade of garlic, ... and it is the judicious use of these
-two seasonings that stamps the expert cook.”
-
-The leek is a member of the onion family, similar in flavor, although
-milder, and the leaves of which are flat instead of tubular. It has
-been stated that in England the leek was once considered to be the
-typical plant, both onion and garlic being but species. The diet of the
-soldiers of ancient Greece was at one time leeks and cheese, a custom
-which Bulwer has satirized in a Neo-Greek outburst of rhyme:
-
-        “Away, away, with the helm and greaves,
-        Away with the leeks and cheese!
-    I have conquered my passion for wounds and blows,
-    And the worst that I wish to the worst of my foes
-            Is the glory and gain
-            Of a year’s campaign
-        On a diet of leeks and cheese!”
-
-Garlic possesses an onion-like bulb around which smaller bulbs cluster,
-the whole covered by a membranous outer layer. Each bulb is described
-as a “clove” of garlic and in flavor is far more demonstrative than
-onion. Shallot, on the contrary, is the daintiest of the onion tribe,
-growing from a cluster of roots and never forming a compact bulb.
-
-[Illustration: Garlic.]
-
-Saffron, a plant of the crocus family, was largely used in mediæval
-Europe as a condiment, although to-day its value as a coloring
-substance is considered of most account. The coloring matter is
-obtained from the stigmas of the flower, which are of a deep orange
-hue. The plant grows wild in Asia Minor, is possibly native to Arabia,
-and has long been extensively cultivated throughout the Mediterranean
-countries. That exported from Spain is considered the finest. At one
-time in Germany the adulteration of saffron was held criminal and
-punishable by death. History records the burning, in 1444, of a man
-with his adulterated saffron and, a dozen years later, the burning
-of two men and a woman for a similar offense. The salutary effect of
-this penalty was not permanent, however, as it is to-day extensively
-adulterated with a cheaper article known as safflower. In the Orient, a
-few nations still add saffron to their rice both for flavor and color
-while in Europe it is now most largely used for coloring macaroni,
-vermicelli and other pastes. Saffron is mentioned in the Old Testament
-in connection with spikenard, cinnamon and other spices, and appears
-to have been used by the early Greeks medicinally, and as both dye and
-perfume.
-
-Capers are the unopened flowers of a low, trailing shrub which grows
-wild in Africa and southern Europe. It is native to Italy and is said
-to have grown wild upon the walls of ancient Rome. It is cultivated in
-France, only the small, grayish green, flower buds being of commercial
-value. They possess an aromatic and slightly pungent flavor and, when
-preserved as is usual in either salt or vinegar, are used for flavoring
-gravies, being well-nigh indispensable in the serving of roast mutton.
-Four or five grades of capers are exported, the finest grade consisting
-of the tiniest and most perfect buds which gradually diminish in value
-as they increase in size.
-
-[Illustration: Capers.]
-
-Turmeric, while classed with condiments owing to its pungent and
-aromatic properties, is most extensively used as a coloring agent. It
-is obtained from the root of the _curcuma longa_, a plant allied to the
-ginger family and native to India and Annam. It is used as a condiment
-only by the Orientals who flavor their rice with it, its greatest value
-to the cooking world being due to the fact that it is one of the chief
-ingredients of curry powder.
-
-Curry powder is a manufactured condiment, one of the most aromatic
-and highly seasoned used. It originated in the East Indies, through
-the skill of whom it is not known. The story goes that the famed and
-delicious cookery of the Orient came about in this fashion. The early
-English, French and Dutch, when setting out for the East Indies, each
-determined to seize and appropriate the islands, spices and all; for
-fear of being compelled to eat poor and unappetizing food took with
-them their most accomplished cooks. From the friendly concourse of
-these chefs arose certain of the celebrated eastern dishes, and from
-its ingredients it is easy to believe that curry was one of them; for
-in it are united, with the herbs of the temperate zones, the spices
-and fruits of the tropics. The ingredients used vary in character
-and in proportion according to the different houses or localities
-manufacturing it. One recipe calls for the following: turmeric, black
-pepper, cayenne pepper, nutmeg, ginger, cloves, cinnamon, allspice,
-cardamon seeds, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, caraway seeds and
-fenugreek. In India the following ingredients are sometimes used,
-besides those above named: anise, almonds, asafœtida, butter (ghee),
-cocoanut and cocoa oil, cream and curds, various nuts, garlic, lime
-juice, mangoes, saffron, salt, and tamarinds. In India alone there
-exist nearly forty different methods of preparing curry, to which list
-might be added the recipes of the numerous spice houses of Europe and
-America. The ingredients of curry are always finely ground and well
-mixed. When lime-juice and butter or oil are added to the curry, a
-paste is prepared. This is preserved by being packed in earthen jars.
-The curries and curry pastes of Ceylon and Java (these being often
-combined with garlic) are quite as celebrated as those of India, while
-the English and American preparations rank enviably high.
-
-[Illustration: Mustard.]
-
-The mustard of commerce consists of the pulverized seed of the mustard
-plant, which grows wild in England and which may be cultivated in
-nearly every part of the globe, even in India. The use of mustard as
-a condiment dates from the Elizabethan age, although it was used
-medicinally by the most celebrated physicians of antiquity. It was
-first compounded in its present form for table use by an old lady of
-Durham, from which circumstance it came to be widely celebrated as
-“Durham mustard.” One of the merchants, to whom this industrious old
-lady sold her mustard, is credited with saying that he owed his wealth,
-not to the mustard which people ate but to that which they left on
-their plates. Two varieties of mustard are cultivated, one producing
-white seeds, the other, seeds which are tiny and black. Both varieties
-of seeds are used, whole, in the spicing of pickles. It is requisite
-that mustard possess good keeping qualities, that it be of a bright
-yellow color, and have an aromatic as well as pungent flavor.
-
-[Illustration: Ginger.]
-
-Horse-radish is a plant allied to the nasturtium and, like the seeds
-and stems of the latter, possesses a sharply pungent flavor. It is
-native to England and western Europe although cultivated in nearly all
-portions of the temperate zone. The root, which is large and fleshy, is
-grated, mixed with salt and vinegar, and used as a condiment. It may
-be prepared in season and bottled, either with vinegar or dessicated,
-keeping for use during the remainder of the year.
-
-Ginger is a flag-like plant, probably native to the East and West
-Indies, the rhizomatous root of which is the only portion commercially
-valuable. According to some authorities ginger was known to the
-earliest of the Greeks and Romans and has been a common spice among
-the nations of Europe, including England, since the eleventh century.
-Under the Plantagenets and Tudors ginger was used as a flavoring for
-meats, unlike the modern custom of using it only in curries, cakes and
-beverages. To-day ginger is exported from both the Indies, that from
-Jamaica being particularly fine, from Africa, from China, from India
-and from Borneo. The African ginger is of excellent flavor but of dark
-color. It is chiefly sold to bakers. That from Borneo is good for
-household use, having a sweet and aromatic flavor and containing very
-little fibre. From Calcutta the “race” or “hand” ginger is exported, so
-called because of the palmate shape of the root. It is exported before
-being decorticated and is not a high grade ginger. The root is often
-preserved in sugar, being taken when young and succulent. It may be
-preserved whole or cut into cubes or slices. Both preserved and dried
-it is largely exported from China and Japan.
-
-Chili is the Spanish name for the pod of the cayenne, the Guinea
-pepper, and other species of capsicum. Capsicum is a member of the
-night shade family, in no way related to the true pepper. It is native
-to tropical America, although now found in nearly all of the warmer
-countries. Cayenne is the pod of the capsicum pulverized to extreme
-fineness. It should be of a dull, red color and, if very red, is quite
-likely to be adulterated, often with red lead or vermilion. Cayenne
-pepper is, perhaps, the most acrid and pungent aromatic used and is
-also valuable medicinally. There are many varieties of capsicum, the
-most noted being the _capsicum annuum_, cultivated in the East Indies,
-in Mexico and southern parts of the United States, and from which
-cayenne pepper is made; and the _capsicum frutescens_, the Guinea or
-bird pepper, a much smaller pod and which, dried whole, is most often
-used in cookery. Chilis are used in enormous quantities by natives of
-hot countries, a paradoxical custom it appears to be, and the hottest,
-most “peppery” dishes known have originated where the sunbeam is
-nearest vertical. Those best known to Americans are the _chili con
-carne_ and the chicken _tomale_ of Mexico. In the southern states
-cayenne is customarily added to all meats, soups and stews. Capsicum
-is an agreeable and valuable stimulant, having the medicinal effect of
-alcohol without disastrous results from its use.
-
-[Illustration: Chili Pepper.]
-
-Mixed seasonings are now to be found in nearly all markets and in point
-of convenience deserve to be popular. They consist of the aromatic
-herbs and spices, mixed and prepared by experts and intended for the
-seasoning of poultry and meats of all kinds.
-
-Penang or mixed spices, are also a modern preparation and are useful in
-cooking, pickling and preserving. They consist of aromatic and pungent
-spices mixed in varying proportions.
-
-Among condiments prepared from animal foods, those of the anchovy,
-lobster, shrimp, and Yarmouth bloater are the most common. The anchovy
-is a tiny, silvery fish, caught in the Mediterranean sea in vast
-quantities. The most famous come from Gorgona, a small island near
-Leghorn, where they are caught in nets as they come in from the deeper
-waters for the purpose of depositing spawn. Anchovies were used as
-a condiment by the most luxurious of the Romans, one preparation,
-called “garum,” consisting of the partly decomposed intestines of this
-fish mixed with spices. They are now exported for use as a condiment
-to all parts of the world, being preserved whole as well as in the
-form of pastes and essences. The pastes are prepared by pressing the
-fish through a sieve, simple flavorings and some oil being added.
-The essences consist of the fish steeped in a highly spiced brine or
-pickle, then strained and bottled. Essences of lobster, shrimp, and
-various fish are similarly prepared.
-
-Various appetizing mixtures intended to give relish to meats, fish and
-soups, and composed of vegetables, fruits and divers spices, are known
-as sauces. “Roots, herbs, vine fruits and salad-flowers, they dish up
-various ways and find them a very delicious sauce to their meats, both
-roasted and boiled, fresh and salt.” No other sauce made compares with
-genuine East Indian chutney. It is a thick sauce, made from the mango
-apple, chilies, spices, lemon juice, raisins, figs, salt and sugar.
-Those most celebrated are the Bengal Club, Terhoot, Sweet Lucknow and a
-number of club chutneys. Trinidad chutney is particularly fine. Ceylon
-chutney is often slightly flavored with garlic. Another kind is “mango
-chutney, a characteristic Singalese condiment, among the ingredients of
-which are fresh, grated cocoanut and chilies carefully brayed together
-in a mortar. This chutney is of a rich roseate hue; and after eating it
-with his prawn curry the epicure feels like the Grand Turk.”
-
-Carachi is a sauce little known in America, although, as it is much
-liked abroad, I give a recipe for its making, which sufficiently
-defines its character: one head of garlic, one dessert spoonful of
-cayenne pepper, three table spoonsful each, of soy, mushroom ketchup,
-walnut pickle, and mango pickle, five anchovies and a pint of vinegar.
-
-Cassareep consists of the inspissated juice of the root of the bitter
-cassava, flavored with various spices. From the cassava, or manioc,
-is prepared tapioca and also cassava flour of which bread is made. The
-root is poisonous because of the prussic acid contained, this, however,
-being dissipated by heat. After the juice is extracted, it is boiled
-down to the color and consistency of molasses, after which spices are
-added. It is the basis of Worcestershire and many other sauces and is
-valuable in the flavoring of soups and ragouts. It is largely exported
-from British Guiana and is used throughout the tropics.
-
-Worcestershire sauce is one of the commonest of table condiments. It
-is prepared from cassareep and varying proportions of spices, garlic,
-peppers, and lime-juice, according to the tastes of the various houses
-manufacturing it.
-
-Both lime-juice and Devonshire sauces are similar in preparation and
-flavor to Worcestershire, the former being quite acid, owing to the
-greater proportion of lime-juice used.
-
-Ketchup is a sauce made variously from tomatoes, mushrooms, walnuts,
-oysters, etc. It should be semi-fluid, about the consistency of a good
-purée and, although spices may be added, the original flavor of the
-basic ingredients must always be preserved. Color is one desideratum.
-In tomato ketchup the sauce is always made of the ripe tomato fruit,
-although, as the color is sometimes produced artificially, the only
-safeguard lies in purchasing of reliable manufacturers. The tomato
-ketchup is a typical American sauce, corresponding in our dietary with
-the mushroom ketchup of the English.
-
-Soy or _shoyu_ is in general use throughout the East, particularly in
-China and Japan, that from the latter country being acknowledged the
-finest made. One authority states that our word ketchup is derived
-from the Chinese name for soy, _kitjap_. The basis of soy, the soy
-bean, has been cultivated in Japan since the earliest dynasties, and is
-to-day one of their important crops. The different varieties of the soy
-bean produce three kinds of soy known as the black, the green and the
-white. The process of making soy consists in first boiling the beans
-and mixing them with parched barley and wheat, coarsely ground. This
-_barm_ is fermented and when the whole mixture is covered with fungi
-it is mixed with brine of a certain strength, which has already been
-boiled and allowed to cool. This mixture is then kept for fermentation
-about twenty-five months. It is stirred with a wooden paddle twice a
-day during winter, three times a day in summer and, when sufficiently
-fermented, is put through a soy press. It is then heated to 130 degrees
-Fahrenheit and, after becoming cold again, is put up in bottles and
-casks. It may be preserved for any length of time. In appearance it
-resembles Worcestershire sauce and from a nutritive point of view is
-superior to any other sauce in our markets.
-
-Soy is manufactured in every part of Japan, no fewer than 10,682 firms
-being engaged in making it in 1891. It is eaten by the entire Japanese
-population with every meal and, besides being a sauce, is sufficient
-as a salt. Used upon fish, beef-steaks and meats, generally, it gives
-a relish that is impossible to the choicest of cookery otherwise. In
-Japan it is used by all classes excepting the extremely destitute, who
-cannot afford to buy it.
-
-Tabasco is a popular sauce, the chief ingredient of which is the pulp
-of the red pepper. This, a species of chili, came originally from
-Central America and through cultivation, largely carried on in the
-South, its strength and flavor have been greatly improved. The sauce is
-extremely hot with chilis and, as it keeps well in any climate, it is
-liked by connoisseurs.
-
-There are on the market numerous preparations known as salad dressings.
-They are useful in cases of inexperience or emergency, but are by no
-means equal to the freshly made mayonnaise of the home kitchen. There
-is real art in preparing a good mayonnaise and a Spanish proverb reads:
-“Four persons are necessary to the making of a salad dressing: a
-spendthrift for oil, a miser for vinegar, a counsellor for salt and a
-madman to stir it all up.”
-
-Pickles are those articles of food, fruit or vegetables, which are
-preserved by immersion in vinegar, with or without the addition of
-salt or spices. Cucumber and green tomato pickles are the commonest
-varieties. When vegetables are mixed, as with chow-chow, piccalilli
-and “mixed pickles,” cucumbers, small onions, green beans, cabbage,
-pepper-pods, cauliflower and various spices are used. Fruits, such as
-apple, melon, peach, crab-apple and pear are also pickled.
-
-Pickled sanphire, although at one time popularly used as a condiment,
-is now little known outside of England. It is a variety of sea-weed
-and grows upon dangerous and rocky cliffs. Shakespeare refers to
-“the sanphire gatherer’s dangerous trade,” and another poet has
-apostrophized the
-
-    “Green girdles and crowns of the sea gods,
-    Cool blossoms of water and foam,”
-
-quite omitting to mention the fact that the “girdles and crowns” make,
-when chopped and packed in vinegar, a most delicious pickle. Unlike
-most condiments, this is, as are all seaweeds, nutritious. The people
-of the Sandwich Islands, as well as the English, consider sanphire,
-both the true and false varieties, a choice condiment. It is specially
-liked when served with mutton.
-
-One of the choicest of condiments is the olive. It is the fruit of
-an evergreen tree, native to Syria and lower Asia but now cultivated
-extensively in southern Europe and California. Unlike most pickles
-it may be classed as a food, owing to the oil contained. The fruit
-is picked by hand and carefully sorted about six weeks before it
-would ripen. It is first placed in strong lye for about twenty-four
-hours, then removed to fresh water where it may remain several days.
-After several washings in fresh water the olives are removed and
-packed in brine. They are ready for use in from one to three months.
-The residents of the olive districts both in Greece, Spain, and in
-California often prefer the olive preserved after it has ripened, the
-oil having then matured and the flavor being finer. Among the export
-trade there is much prejudice against it owing to its dull, black
-color. Olives should be of good color, crisp and firm, but never tough.
-The Spanish and Italian olives are widely popular but are really no
-finer than the best California products.
-
-The candle-nut, used as a relish and somewhat resembling a green
-walnut, is the fruit of a tropical tree. It is chopped fine, packed in
-jars, or bottled, with salt added. As a relish it is highly prized,
-specially by the natives of the Sandwich Islands.
-
-[Illustration: Candle-nut.]
-
-Flavors are used almost entirely in the making of sweetmeats, candies
-and pastry. Vanilla is perhaps the most choice, being invariably used
-in the preparation of chocolate and cocoa for the market. The vanilla
-vine is an orchid, native to Central America, and cultivated in South
-America, the West Indies, Mexico, and upon the islands of the Indian
-and southern Pacific oceans. The vanilla of commerce is made from
-the delicate, volatile oil extracted from the seed-pods. These are
-several inches in length and great care is exerted in curing that the
-flavor be not destroyed. The curing process occupies about six months.
-The vanilla plant bears fruit when about three years old, remaining
-productive for thirty or forty years. The best vanilla is exported from
-Mexico, while that from Brazil is of an inferior quality.
-
-The Tonka bean, called also Tongua and Tonquin bean, is frequently
-sold as a substitute for or adulterant of vanilla. It belongs to the
-_leguminosæ_, producing thick, short pods from which an oil, resembling
-vanilla, is extracted. The tree is common in British Guiana and the
-tropics and grows to an immense size. It is much cheaper commercially
-than vanilla.
-
-[Illustration: Vanilla Vine and Bean.]
-
-The extract of bitter almond consists of a tincture made from the
-kernel of the nut. The tree of the bitter almond originated, it is
-believed, in Prussia, although now growing wild in southern Europe.
-The flavor obtained from the kernel is due to the prussic acid
-developed in the process of making the tincture. A similar flavor
-exists in the kernel and leaves of the peach, a tree allied botanically
-to the almond. Flavoring extracts are also made from the orange, lemon,
-strawberry, and other fruits. They are also produced chemically, as
-many alleged fruit-flavors found upon the market prove, from the
-coal-tar products.
-
-The pistachio or pistache nut is particularly liked by confectioners
-because of its delicate flavor, resembling that of the almond. It is
-the kernel of a pine-tree, is small and of a light green color. It is
-native to Europe and the far East.
-
-Cordials or _liqueurs_ are used both for flavoring pastries and ices
-and, in the way of beverages, as aids to the digestion. In the latter
-case they are taken in very small quantities just at the close of a
-meal.
-
-Curaçoa is one of the most celebrated of cordials. It was originally
-made in the island of Curaçoa, whence its name, and is prepared from
-limes, orange peel and spices. It is still an important source of
-revenue to its native island.
-
-Noyau is a _liqueur_ made from brandy, flavored with bitter almond.
-
-Ratafia is a _liqueur_ similar to Curaçoa and noyau, which is flavored
-with peach and almond extracts and spiced.
-
-Anisette and kümmel have been already mentioned, the former a cordial
-made by the French and Italians and flavored with aniseed; the latter,
-a German and Russian _liqueur_, flavored with kümmel or caraway seed.
-
-Absinthe is a bitter and aromatic cordial, the bitterness being due to
-the use of wormwood in its preparation. It is particularly pernicious
-and treacherous to use if taken before meals, as is often the custom,
-instead of afterward. It is largely used by the French.
-
-Maraschino is an aromatic cordial, the flavor of which is produced by
-the use of the bitter almond and the Italian cherry.
-
-Chartreuse was originally prepared by the monks of a monastery of that
-name in France. For obvious reasons the Pope prohibited its manufacture
-by them in 1864 and the original receipt was lost. There are four kinds
-now made, of which the green is perhaps the most popular. Chartreuse
-possesses the fragrance of garden herbs, the aroma of various spices,
-flowers and nuts, and even the balsamy fragrance of the young, green
-tassel from the pine tree. These cordials are more largely used in
-France and Italy than anywhere else. Owing to a growing sentiment
-against their use, they are tolerated to only a limited extent in
-America although, because of their common use as flavorings, they are
-here mentioned.
-
-Vegetable acids are also largely used for the flavoring of foods. One
-of the oldest known is verjuice, used by the ancients as a beverage.
-Its use in cookery is believed to have originated in mediæval France.
-It is made from the juice of crab-apples and of unripe grapes.
-
-Vinegar is a developed acid. The word comes from the French
-_vin-aigre_, meaning sour wine. If simple cane sugar be mixed with
-water and some ferment, it will turn to grape sugar, then to alcohol,
-then to vinegar. However, the best vinegar now used is a fruit acid,
-either from apple or grape. It is also made from the red and white
-wines and from sour beer, the latter being known as malt vinegar. In
-England the law allows a percentage of sulphuric acid to be added to
-malt vinegar while in America both sulphuric and muriatic acids are
-considered adulterants. Vinegar is the one indispensable ingredient of
-pickles and various sauces as well as a valuable condiment.
-
-Limes and lemons, similar fruits, contain large quantities of acid
-which is thoroughly wholesome and agreeable. To some extent these acids
-are displacing vinegar as condiments, being considered both more health
-giving and more palatable.
-
-The most complete and instructive exhibition of condiments and spices
-ever given was held in the Agricultural Building during the World’s
-Columbian Exposition. The nations of all the earth contributed. There
-were capers and olives from Italy, spices from Java, chutney from
-Trinidad, Calcutta, and the far away island of Ceylon; ketchup from
-both England and America, cassareep and pickled limes from British
-Guiana, soy from China and Japan, and pickles from lands galore. The
-long, daintily curved, vanilla bean was exhibited side by side with its
-short, fat, plebeian looking adulterant, the tonka bean. Cordials were
-sent from every country exhibiting. There was in one portion of the
-building a small conservatory filled with growing spice plants, among
-them pimento, ginger, clove, nutmeg, pepper, cassia and cinnamon.
-
-[Illustratio: A pot surrounded by flowers]
-
-
-
-
-                                INDEX.
-
-
-           PAGE.
-
-  Absinthe, 40
-
-  Almond, 38
-
-  Allspice, 9
-
-  Anchovy Paste, 31
-
-  Anise, 14
-
-  Anisette, 40
-
-
-  Basil, 16
-
-  Bay Leaves, 18
-
-  Black Pepper, 12
-
-
-  Candle-Nut, 37
-
-  Capers, 25
-
-  Capsicum, _vide_ chili, 20
-
-  Carachi, 32
-
-  Caraway, 15
-
-  Cardamon, 11
-
-  Cassia, 8
-
-  Cassareep, 32
-
-  Catsup, _vide_ Ketchup
-
-  Cayenne, _vide_ Chili
-
-  Celery, 16
-
-  Chartreuse, 40
-
-  Chervil, 16
-
-  Chili, 29
-
-  Chutney, 32
-
-  Cinnamon, 7
-
-  Clove, 6
-
-  Condiments, antiquity of, 2;
-    classification of, 3;
-    digestive value of, 1;
-    exhibition of, 41;
-    mediæval use of, 3.
-
-  Coriander, 13
-
-  Cumin, 13
-
-  Curaçoa, 39
-
-  Curry, 26
-
-
-  Devonshire Sauce, 33
-
-  Dill, 15
-
-
-  Fennel, 17
-
-  Fenugreek, 14
-
-
-  Garlic, 23
-
-  Ginger, 29
-
-  Grains of Paradise, 14
-
-  Guinea Pepper, 30
-
-
-  Horse-Radish, 28
-
-
-  Ketchup, 33
-
-  Kümmel, 40
-
-
-  Leek, 23
-
-  Lemon, 41
-
-  Lime, 41
-
-  Lime-juice Sauce, 33
-
-  Long Pepper, 13
-
-
-  Mace, 11
-
-  Maraschino, 40
-
-  Mint, 20
-
-  Mixed Seasonings, 31
-
-  Mustard, 26
-
-
-  Noyau, 39
-
-  Nutmeg, 10
-
-
-  Olive, 36
-
-  Onion, 22
-
-
-  Parsley, 19
-
-  Penang Spices, 31
-
-  Pepper, 11
-
-  Pickles, 35
-
-  Pistache Nut, 39
-
-
-  Ratafia, 39
-
-
-  Safflower, 24
-
-  Saffron, 24
-
-  Sage, 20
-
-  Salad Dressings, 35
-
-  Salt, 5
-
-  Samphire, 36
-
-  Sauces, 32
-
-  Shallot, 24
-
-  Soy, 34
-
-  Star Anise, 15
-
-  Summer Savory, 19
-
-  Sweet Marjoram, 21
-
-
-  Tabasco Sauce, 35
-
-  Tarragon, 22
-
-  Thyme, 19
-
-  Tonka-bean, 38
-
-  Turmeric, 25
-
-
-  Vanilla, 37
-
-  Verjuice, 41
-
-  Vinegar, 41
-
-
-  Winter Savory, 19
-
-  Worcestershire Sauce, 33
-
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