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If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Condiments, Spices and Flavors - -Author: Anonymous - -Release Date: September 13, 2021 [eBook #66284] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Charlene Taylor, Les Galloway and the Online Distributed - Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was - produced from images generously made available by The Internet - Archive/American Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CONDIMENTS, SPICES AND FLAVORS *** - - - Transcriber’s Notes - -Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. - -Italics are represented thus _italic_. - - - - -[Illustration: a sprig of herb] - - Condiments - Spices and ... - ... Flavors - -=Condiments, if properly used, assure digestion and hasten the -absorption of food by the system.—THEODORE CHILD.= - - - - - COPYRIGHT, 1894, BY - MARY E. GREEN, M. D. - - - - - PREFACE - - -In this pamphlet no attempt has been made to give specific directions -as to the uses of spices and condiments. It must be borne in mind -that their usage results neither from the demands of fashion nor of a -vitiated sense of taste, but from their own germicidal and preservative -qualities. From the spiced and perfumed mummies of the Pharaohs to -the spiced apple and pickled pear of our own store-rooms, the same -reason for the use of spices exists—their antiseptic qualities. A short -account of the divers kinds and qualities of these excellent substances -may lead, it is hoped, to a more intelligent use of them in cookery. -Nothing has been said about adulteration, for, while most of the -adulterants of spices are harmless, still, fraud lies in the fact that -the buyer pays a high price for an article part of which is worthless. -As every housewife cannot be her own chemist, her safeguard lies in -buying only of reliable spice houses. - - - - - CONDIMENTS, SPICES AND FLAVORS. - - -A Maxim as ancient as the time of Democritus of Abdera -reads: “Whatever pleases the palate nourishes.” Modern science has -proven the truth of this maxim and has given us acceptable reason why -condiments are no more necessary in palace of connoisseur than in hut -of barbarian, why they are as eagerly used by the native of Labrador -as by the swarthy son of the tropics; why they are the property of -Mohammedan, Confucian, Buddhist, Gentile and Jew, of all castes, races -and civilizations. Acting principally upon the nervous system through -the sense of smell, condiments stimulate the flow of both the saliva -and gastric juices. They materially aid digestion, and the familiar -phrase, “to make the mouth water,” states a physiological fact. -From this standpoint the fragrant aroma of steaming coffee and the -savory odor of a stew are as truly condiments as pepper and salt; for -condiments are the magic wand which transforms most commonplace of -foods into essences, subtle and delicious. They are equally appropriate -to the steaming _potage_ of the French peasant and the sacrificial -altars of Palestine and Greece. Nothing more closely tests the skill -of the cook than his use of these appetizing flavors. Like genii of -the fairy tale, they are willing, versatile and obedient as slaves; -when master their pathway is strewn with sorrowful though most aromatic -wrecks of soups and _hors d’œuvres_. They should permeate food as -incense does the atmosphere, delicate, impalpable and as indescribable -as they are requisite. The too abundant use of a certain condiment -or spice, the lack of another or the injudicious mingling of certain -others will ruin the finest pudding, sauce or soup ever compounded. - -Condiments and spices are as ancient as civilization. The oldest books -of the scriptures, notably Exodus, Leviticus, Job and the Canticles, -make frequent reference to salt and spices, substances which were -then costly, chiefly dedicated to royalty and the uses of temple and -altar. The Greeks followed the Semitic customs to some extent in their -disposition of spices, not using them as largely in their food as have -later races. They were fond of aromatic flavorings and it is said that -the laurels of Greece, of which the cinnamon is a species, possessed -that quality to a greater extent than those of any other country, -although all laurels have aromatic leaves. - -Homer in the Iliad refers with naïve surprise to those people -unaccustomed to the use of salt, and in the ninth book pictures -Patroclus as - - “He strews a bed of glowing embers wide, - Above the coals the smoking fragments turns, - And sprinkles sacred salt upon the urns.” - -By the mediæval Romans condiments were well liked. They made, according -to one author, a pickle from the tunny fish, just as their languorous -descendants are doing to-day, and also prepared a condiment from the -intestines of the mackerel. “Liver of the capon, steeped in milk and -beccaficoes, and dressed with pepper” was another of their highly -seasoned dishes. - -In the thirteenth century Dante, in the description of the alchemists -and forgers of the tenth gulf of the Inferno, referred to one Niccolo -of Sienna, “who first the spice’s luxury discovered.” Contemporary with -him in England, William Langland, in his “Vision of Piers the Plowman,” -inquired if thou “hast in thy purse any hot spices?” - -Frequent reference by the writers of that day indicates that these -substances were expensive and used mainly by the luxurious. Venice had -for many years controlled the trade in spices, which were brought -overland from the Orient in immense caravans, and not until Diaz and -Vasco de Gama, in the fifteenth century, rounded the cape of Good Hope -did their costliness diminish. After that event spices and condiments -ceased to be regarded merely as luxuries and became as necessary to the -plainest of soups as to the _Puree de volaille a la Bearnise_ of the -French chef. - -All classes of people use condiments in some form, from the wealthy -epicure who flavors his terrapin with mace, salt, pepper, and sherry -to the negro who sifts okra through his fingers into his gumbo soup or -the Indian, stirring the contents of a steaming kettle with twigs of -sassafras. - -Condiments have been defined as those substances eaten with meat -and combined with salt while spices are chiefly added to articles -containing sugar. They may be classified as follows: - - - { { Clove, cinnamon, cassia-bud, pimento or - { { allspice, nutmeg, mace, cardamon, pepper, - { { cumin, coriander, fenugreek, grains of - { AROMATICS { Paradise, anise, dill, caraway, basil, chervil, - { { celery, fennel, bay-leaves, summer savory, - { { parsley, thyme, sage, sweet marjoram, - VEGETABLE { { mint, tarragon, onion, leek, garlic, saffron, - { { capers, turmeric and curry powder. - { - { { Mustard, - { PUNGENT { horse-radish, - { AROMATICS { ginger, - { { chilies (cayenne pepper). - - - MINERAL { Salt. - - ANIMAL { Pastes and essences of shrimp, lobster, bloater, anchovy, - { etc. - SAUCES { Chutney, tabasco, lime juice, Worcestershire, ketchup, - { carachi, cassareep and soy. - - PICKLES { Various vegetables and fruits, such as cucumber, olive, - { samphire, etc. - - FLAVORS { Vanilla, tonka bean, almond, chocolate, orange and - { various fruits. - - ACIDS { Vinegar, lime juice, verjuice. - - CORDIALS { Curaçoa, Noyau, Ratafia, anisette, kümmel, absinthe, - { Chartreuse, Maraschino, etc. - -Salt is even more valuable as a condiment than as a preservative. It -is used in every staple article of cookery and, as has been said, -“Plutarch was right when he styled salt the condiment of condiments.” -Cereals and vegetables are tasteless without the addition of that -mysterious quantity, “a pinch of salt,” bread is insipid without a -dash of it, as also are meats and puddings. Meats, when so cooked that -their own salts are not extracted, as when roasted, are more palatable -without additional salt than any other food so prepared. - -Though salt is unused because unattainable by certain barbaric peoples, -such as the Bedouins, it is considered to be a necessity by all others. -Aristotle relates that in Greece a salt spring was believed to be a -direct gift of the gods, salt always comprising part of the religious -offerings. Salt is referred to in the scriptures more than a score of -times. In Leviticus we find the command that “every oblation of thy -meat offering shall be seasoned with salt.” In Job occurs the question -“can that which is unsavory be eaten without salt?” The Biblical -comparison to salt which has lost its savor refers to the custom -still retained in Oriental countries of adulterating with earth the -salt which finds its way to the extremely poor, who cannot pay the -original high price. So costly was salt in the ancient world that the -old caravan routes were first formed for traffic in this article. The -“Salarian Way” of Rome was so named because of its immense commerce in -salt and to this day the trade route across the Sahara is by this means -mainly supported. Recently, the salt beds of Europe and the salt mines -and wells of the western hemisphere have made this article so abundant -that its cheapness effectually protects it from adulteration. - -[Illustration: Clove.] - -Cloves are the unexpanded flowers of an evergreen tree found in the -East Indies and indigenous to the Molucca Islands. They are called by -the Chinese “fragrant nails” owing to the peculiar shape of the dried -clove buds, and the English word is derived from the Latin _clavus_, -and French _clou_, also meaning nail. It is doubtful if cloves were -known to the Greeks or Romans, the Venetians having first obtained them -from the Arabians, while the clove trade was later monopolized by the -Portuguese. Then it was owned by the Dutch who expelled the Portuguese -from the Spice Islands in 1605. The Dutch made great effort to control -the entire spice trade of these islands, which was a source of abundant -wealth, and were even known to furnish the market with the adulterated -article, the oil of clove being extracted by pressure and the buds -being given a fresh appearance by a glaze of olive oil. They also -preserve the mother clove, or fully developed fruit. This resembles the -olive in appearance and, being less pungent in flavor than the bud, -makes a dainty sweetmeat. The clove tree is not hardy and grows best -when planted in loamy soil, sheltered from the winds by the hills. It -has been introduced into the West Indies and Guiana. Cloves from the -Moluccas and Ceylon are more valuable, being richer in oil, darker in -color and far more aromatic. - -Cinnamon is the inner bark of a tree allied to the laurels. It is -indigenous to Ceylon and the Penang Islands although believed by -some authorities to have originally come from China, where it has -flourished since the remotest times. As it is mentioned in the Old -Testament it is conjectured that the Hebrews obtained it from the -Arabians who in turn procured it from India. Later it was mentioned by -Herodotus. It is known that Hippocrates used cinnamon medicinally and -the modern medical world has but recently made the discovery that oil -of cinnamon is a valuable antiseptic and germicide. Not until 1506 was -cinnamon discovered wild in Ceylon and not until 1770 was it improved -by cultivation. The tree grows to a height of twenty and occasionally -thirty feet, although, as the bark from the young shoots is of finer -flavor, that only is used. Cinnamon shrubs are cultivated in fields, -the finest being located in the region of Colombo, Ceylon. The shoots, -which grow in clusters of from four to ten, are cut to the roots twice -a year, after the rains. The epidermis is peeled off, the bark is put -up in bundles about forty inches long and thus dried and marketed. -Three grades are exported, the finest, thin, of a brownish yellow -color, fragrant and sweet of odor and correspondingly high of price. It -is also adulterated with cassia bark, a cheaper production. - -Cassia is the inner bark of a species of cinnamon called Chinese -cinnamon or _cassia lignea_. The greater part of it is exported from -China. The bark is put up in bundles about half the length of cinnamon -bark and is more pungent and less sweet of flavor. Cassia buds are the -unripened fruits of the tree which produces Chinese cassia. In shape -and size they resemble cloves, in aroma, cinnamon, and are usually -preserved whole for sweetmeats or spices. Cassia is mentioned by Moses -as an ingredient of the holy oil, in Psalms as a perfume and in Ezekiel -as a spice. - -Allspice, sometimes called Jamaica pepper and properly, _pimento_, -is native to the Island of Jamaica and has not been successfully -cultivated outside of the West Indies. The pimento tree is an evergreen -of the myrtlebloom family, all of which are exotic trees, and reaches a -height of thirty feet. The allspice of commerce consists of the berries -of this tree, exported whole after being dried, and so called because -their aroma resembles that of cloves, cinnamon, juniper and nutmeg. The -berries are gathered when green, being left on the twigs until dried by -the sun, by which means all the essential oil is retained. - -[Illustration: Cassia Buds.] - -[Illustration: Nutmeg.] - -Nutmeg is the kernel of the fruit of an exotic evergreen tree native -to the Banda and other of the East Indian islands. In appearance it -resembles the orange, yielding fruit when eight or nine years of -age and bearing for fifty or sixty years. It requires a light soil, -moisture and shade, and cannot be propagated in regions in which -these conditions are not present. The tree bears fruit during most -of the year, in the Molucca and other islands three crops a year -being gathered. The fruit, which requires nine months in which to -mature, is carefully dried before the pericarp is removed and the -kernel taken out. There are three varieties, the male or barren, the -royal and the queen, the last, a small, round nutmeg, considered most -valuable. The inferior nutmegs are used for the extraction of nutmeg -butter or oil, known as “oil of mace.” About six per cent of volatile -oil is contained. It is stated that more nutmegs are exported to the -United States than to all Europe. The Dutch formerly preserved the -entire fruit, kernel and pericarp, in a syrup of sweet vinegar for a -sweetmeat. This nation when in control of the spice trade of certain of -the East Indian islands made strenuous efforts to confine the nutmeg -tree to the Bandas. But the “nutmeg bird,” a species of blue pigeon, -frustrated their designs by scattering the nuts all over the islands -after feeding upon their pulpy covering. So determined at one time were -the Dutch to keep the price of nutmegs high that, if an unusually large -harvest occurred, part of it was burned by them. - -Mace is the reticulated aril covering the kernel. When fresh, it is of -a crimson color, reaching the golden tint only when dried and after -some months. In its properties it is similar to the nutmeg. The leaves -of the nutmeg tree as well as the fruit are highly aromatic. - -The cardamon is a member of the ginger family and is native to Malabar, -Madagascar and Ceylon. That from the latter country is of quite large -size. It consists of a rhizome or root stock from which rise tall, -flag-like leaves. The flower stem springs directly from the root and is -much shorter, bearing racemiform clusters of small white flowers. The -fruit consists of greenish pods half an inch in length, each pod being -three capsuled and containing numerous seeds. These seeds are pungent -in flavor and constitute the valuable part of the plant. The pods are -dried slowly as rapid drying causes them to split, thereby losing the -seeds. Cardamon seeds were used by the ancient Greeks both as a spice -and as medicine. - -Pepper, with cinnamon, salt and incense, was one of the staple -commodities which anciently passed over the caravan routes between -Venice and India. At that time its price was extremely high and, -according to E. M. Holmes, rents were frequently paid in this article -as late as the middle ages. After the sack of Rome by the barbarians -one of the articles of tribute demanded by Alaric was a thousand pounds -of pepper. As late as the eighteenth century the pepper trade was -confined to the Portuguese. In recent years it has become one of the -cheapest of our spices. - -[Illustration: Round Pepper.] - -The pepper plant is a vine, of the order _piperaceæ_, which grows -wild in China, is also indigenous to Malabar and other islands of -the East Indies, and has been introduced into the West Indies. The -plants require a rich moist soil, bearing after the fourth year and -continuing fruitful for from eight to fourteen years. The most famous -of the pepper islands are the Penang, which furnish more than half -the amount produced by the entire East Indies. Only the berries of -the pepper plant are valuable and these, being gathered before fully -developed, have a wrinkled appearance when dried. The berries used for -white pepper are decorticated either in the islands or in London and -reach the United States ready for grinding. The finest grade passes -through more than twenty different operations before it is considered -marketable. - -Black pepper differs from the white in the leaving on of the hull, -which is black and contains the acrid principles of the flavor. Hence, -white pepper is less pungent and fully as fine in flavor as the black. -Shot pepper consists of the finest berries, those richest in oil. It is -selected by throwing a quantity of the berries in water. Those which -sink are collected, labeled, and sold as shot pepper. - -Long pepper, referred to by the Greeks as _piperi macron_, is the -unripe fruit of a species of pepper, an inch or more in length and and -shaped like a spike. The flavor is similar to that of ordinary black -pepper. African pepper is another variety. Those best known to the -western markets are Penang, Tellicherry and Malabar. - -Cumin or cummin is a small herbaceous plant, native to Egypt and very -early cultivated in the Mediterranean countries. It is now grown in -India, Sicily and Malta, the seeds only being valuable. These contain -a large proportion of essential oil which gives them an aromatic but -acrid flavor. They are not now used in cookery though receipts are -still extant which prove them to have once been considered a valuable -culinary spice. The Latin poets relate that the ancients used cumin -seeds medicinally, their effect being to produce languor. They are -referred to in Isaiah as being “beaten out with a rod” and also in the -Mosaic law regarding tithes. - -Coriander is a small umbelliferous plant native to the eastern of the -Mediterranean countries but now cultivated quite generally in both -Europe and America. The fruits, erroneously called the seeds, are -nearly always mentioned in the earlier recipes for meats and puddings -and to this day many a country housewife considers them indispensable -to the flavoring of dried apple pies. The plant grows wild in all parts -of Palestine, especially in the Jordan valley. - -[Illustration: Coriander.] - -Fenugreek is an herbaceous plant allied to the clover. It is native to -the Asiatic countries and is still cultivated in France and Germany. -The seeds were formerly used as a spice, but now only as an ingredient -of curry powder, owing to their strong, bitter and unpleasant flavor. - -Grains of Paradise are the dried seeds of a reed-like plant allied to -the ginger family and indigenous to western Africa. The fruit which -contains the seeds is four or five inches in length and of a bright red -color. The seed are now never used, excepting occasionally by brewers. -Formerly they were esteemed as a spice for cookery and were one of -the ingredients of the famous Norwich herring pies of old England. In -flavor they are extremely hot and pungent. - -Anise is a little annual of the order umbelliferæ and scarcely more -than a foot in height. It is indigenous to Europe, although cultivated -in many of the northern Mediterranean countries. The seeds are powerful -aromatics, used both medicinally and in the preparation of a _liqueur_ -called “anisette,” which is to the Italians what kümmel is to the -Germans. The star anise is a tree allied to the magnolias, the seeds of -which are stronger and less pleasant of flavor than those of the common -anise. They are called star aniseed from the star-like shape of the -fruit. The anise mentioned in the New Testament as part of the tithes -is a different plant, believed to be dill. - -Dill is a small herb, native to Spain, which produces umbelliferous -stalks of yellow flowers. It is still cultivated in portions of -temperate Europe. An aromatic oil is extracted from the tiny seeds -which are also used, whole, for flavoring pickles. - -[Illustration: Caraway.] - -Caraway is also an umbelliferous plant growing wild in the meadows -and pastures of both Europe and Asia. It is cultivated for its mildly -aromatic seeds, although in the northern countries of Europe the root, -which resembles the parsnip, is also eaten. No aromatic of temperate -climates is more common than the dainty, white-blooming plant growing -in the kitchen gardens of both hemispheres. Its seeds are used for the -spicing of cheese, cakes and candies, and in Germany in the rye bread -called “kümmel-brod,” which is universally eaten. The seeds are also -used in the making of an aromatic cordial called “kümmel.” - -Basil is not now used as extensively in cooking as formerly. Its native -haunts are India and Persia, although since it yields gracefully to -culture, it is to be found in many old-fashioned kitchen gardens. Its -aromatic properties are similar to those of other garden herbs. - -[Illustration: Basil.] - -Chervil is an umbelliferous annual possessing aromatic leaves and -somewhat resembling parsley in flavor. It is used in Europe as a -pot-herb for soups and stews, but is chiefly known in America as one of -the obsolete delicacies which deserve to be still popular. The root, -which is fleshy and fusiform in shape, is cooked and eaten by the -people of southern Europe. - -Celery is a veritable plebeian, originally growing wild in the ditches -and fens of Europe, a coarse, offensive and poisonous vegetable. Few -plants are so susceptible to the influences of cultivation and it is -difficult to recognize its unaristocratic prototype in the tender, -white and aromatic stalks of the garden product. It belongs to the -parsley family and every portion is useful to the cook, from the -daintily curled tops which may be used for both flavor and garnish, the -stalks which may be eaten plain, dressed raw in salad or cooked, to the -seeds, the flavor of which makes even the poorest of soups relishable. -The seeds are now commonly ground for the making of “celery salt” or -“celery pepper,” as the same product is variously called. A variety of -celery, called _celeriac_, is cultivated in certain European countries, -notably Germany, the root only, which is large and fleshy, being eaten. -The famous “wild celery” of Chesapeake Bay is simply “eelgrass,” an -aquatic plant which bears no relationship whatever to the umbelliferæ, -of which order celery is a species. - -Fennel is an umbelliferous plant, native to portions of temperate -Europe and Asia, especially Portugal. The fruits possess an aromatic -flavor while the tender shoots are used for salad. The plant and -its culinary value was well known to the Romans, and it is to-day -cultivated in both Europe and America. The fruits of the European -fennel are used in the making of an aromatic drink, while in America -the plant is chiefly cultivated for its leaves. It has been said that -fennel is to fish what mint is to lamb, and in certain of the southern -states mackerel is considered of too strong a flavor to be eaten unless -cooked with fennel. The fennel thus used grows wild, the green leaves -being tied in bunches and boiled with the fish. - -Bay leaves are the leaves of a shrub belonging to the laurel tribe, -which grows wild in the Mediterranean countries. Among the Greeks the -bay leaf was consecrated to the uses of poetry, heroism and religion. -Not until later times was it used as a flavoring for foods and for the -decoration of various dishes. It grows wild in certain of the southern -states but the leaves are usually exported from Europe, dried. The -leaves are used in soups, stews and pickles and, although the average -housewife finds it next to impossible to procure them, scarcely a -recipe for these articles of food but includes bay leaves among its -flavorings. - -[Illustration: Bay Leaves.] - -Summer savory is a hardy little annual which has long grown wild in -southern Europe and is now largely cultivated for culinary use. Both -the summer and winter savories are fragrant and are valuable in the -seasoning of sausages and gravies. - -Parsley is a native of the island of Sardinia and, having been improved -in both fragrance and appearance by culture, is more valuable than -any other herb for the garnishing of dishes. Its curled, crisp, green -leaves give the poorest salad or meat a tempting appearance, well -sustained by the fineness of flavor it imparts. Its flavor somewhat -resembles that of celery. The little herb may be seen in nearly -every garden during the summer months and often in a pot, or kitchen -window-box during the winter, from which it may be plucked fresh -daily. The experienced cook would part with any other half dozen -condiments more willingly than with parsley. The plant belongs to the -_umbelliferæ_, which order includes the carrot, parsnip and celery. It -is said to have come originally from Egypt and mythology represents -Hercules as adorning his head with its curled leaves. - -Thyme, a little under shrub native to the Mediterranean countries, is -allied botanically to sage, summer savory and sweet basil. It possesses -very small leaves and whorls of tiny, lilac-colored flowers, from -which thymol or oil of thyme, a valuable germicide, is distilled. In -flavor it is fragrant and aromatic and it may be readily cultivated in -gardens. The wild thyme of our banks “where ox-lips and the nodding -violet grows,” is a different variety of the same order. Its name is -derived from the Greek word _thumos_, meaning incense or perfume. - -[Illustration: Thyme.] - -Sage is a small plant of the order _labiatæ_, and is native to -southern Europe. It has been so greatly changed by cultivation that -little semblance of the original plant now remains in the sage of our -gardens excepting the flavor. It was known to the ancients and to-day -its fragrant, grayish green leaves constitute one of our commonest -flavorings. - -It was an Englishman who once said that “mint made lamb out of an old -sheep”! Perhaps he loved it also because of the legend that it once -existed in the form of a beautiful maiden, transformed by Persephone -into the modest aromatic of our gardens. The mint designated is that -member of the labiate family known as spear mint, native to Europe -but grown in all portions of the United States and largely marketed. -It is a small, green herb, the leaves being highly aromatic and, when -bruised, yielding a valuable essential oil. It is equally liked in the -mint sauce so indispensable to mutton and the mint-julep— - - “This cordial julep here, - That flames and dances in his crystal bounds.” - -[Illustration: Mint.] - -Sweet marjoram grows wild in Spain and Portugal and, in a cultivated -state, throughout Europe and the United States. It is a member of the -mint family and, like spear mint, possesses aromatic leaves. - -Tarragon is a small, aromatic herb, native to Liberia. It is cultivated -in Europe and is the _estragon_ of the French, who use the young plants -largely for salads. It is hardy, and is grown extensively in America, -being used for flavoring vinegar, mustard and pickles. Tarragon -vinegar, from the excellence of its flavor, should have a place in -every household. - -[Illustration: Tarragon.] - -The onion is believed to have originated in Egypt although it was known -in very early times in India. In the former country it was worshiped as -a deity. “Cucumbers, and the melons, and the leeks, and the onions, and -the garlick” formed the daily food of the Israelites in Egypt. Italy -and Spain are now noted for the immense size of the onions grown there, -as also are the Bermuda Islands. Those of the latter place possess a -far milder flavor, a condition due to soil and climate. The flavor of -onion, when strong, is unpleasant to some people to a nauseating degree -and it is hard to see in it any resemblance to its dainty cousins, -the lily and the hyacinth. But when skillfully used it is a valuable -and wholesome culinary condiment and is more largely employed by the -average cook than the uninitiated ever suspect. Says one author: “The -onion is the sheet anchor of the skillful cook. It is impossible to -prepare the delicate Bordelaise sauce without resorting to the use of -onions and a shade of garlic, ... and it is the judicious use of these -two seasonings that stamps the expert cook.” - -The leek is a member of the onion family, similar in flavor, although -milder, and the leaves of which are flat instead of tubular. It has -been stated that in England the leek was once considered to be the -typical plant, both onion and garlic being but species. The diet of the -soldiers of ancient Greece was at one time leeks and cheese, a custom -which Bulwer has satirized in a Neo-Greek outburst of rhyme: - - “Away, away, with the helm and greaves, - Away with the leeks and cheese! - I have conquered my passion for wounds and blows, - And the worst that I wish to the worst of my foes - Is the glory and gain - Of a year’s campaign - On a diet of leeks and cheese!” - -Garlic possesses an onion-like bulb around which smaller bulbs cluster, -the whole covered by a membranous outer layer. Each bulb is described -as a “clove” of garlic and in flavor is far more demonstrative than -onion. Shallot, on the contrary, is the daintiest of the onion tribe, -growing from a cluster of roots and never forming a compact bulb. - -[Illustration: Garlic.] - -Saffron, a plant of the crocus family, was largely used in mediæval -Europe as a condiment, although to-day its value as a coloring -substance is considered of most account. The coloring matter is -obtained from the stigmas of the flower, which are of a deep orange -hue. The plant grows wild in Asia Minor, is possibly native to Arabia, -and has long been extensively cultivated throughout the Mediterranean -countries. That exported from Spain is considered the finest. At one -time in Germany the adulteration of saffron was held criminal and -punishable by death. History records the burning, in 1444, of a man -with his adulterated saffron and, a dozen years later, the burning -of two men and a woman for a similar offense. The salutary effect of -this penalty was not permanent, however, as it is to-day extensively -adulterated with a cheaper article known as safflower. In the Orient, a -few nations still add saffron to their rice both for flavor and color -while in Europe it is now most largely used for coloring macaroni, -vermicelli and other pastes. Saffron is mentioned in the Old Testament -in connection with spikenard, cinnamon and other spices, and appears -to have been used by the early Greeks medicinally, and as both dye and -perfume. - -Capers are the unopened flowers of a low, trailing shrub which grows -wild in Africa and southern Europe. It is native to Italy and is said -to have grown wild upon the walls of ancient Rome. It is cultivated in -France, only the small, grayish green, flower buds being of commercial -value. They possess an aromatic and slightly pungent flavor and, when -preserved as is usual in either salt or vinegar, are used for flavoring -gravies, being well-nigh indispensable in the serving of roast mutton. -Four or five grades of capers are exported, the finest grade consisting -of the tiniest and most perfect buds which gradually diminish in value -as they increase in size. - -[Illustration: Capers.] - -Turmeric, while classed with condiments owing to its pungent and -aromatic properties, is most extensively used as a coloring agent. It -is obtained from the root of the _curcuma longa_, a plant allied to the -ginger family and native to India and Annam. It is used as a condiment -only by the Orientals who flavor their rice with it, its greatest value -to the cooking world being due to the fact that it is one of the chief -ingredients of curry powder. - -Curry powder is a manufactured condiment, one of the most aromatic -and highly seasoned used. It originated in the East Indies, through -the skill of whom it is not known. The story goes that the famed and -delicious cookery of the Orient came about in this fashion. The early -English, French and Dutch, when setting out for the East Indies, each -determined to seize and appropriate the islands, spices and all; for -fear of being compelled to eat poor and unappetizing food took with -them their most accomplished cooks. From the friendly concourse of -these chefs arose certain of the celebrated eastern dishes, and from -its ingredients it is easy to believe that curry was one of them; for -in it are united, with the herbs of the temperate zones, the spices -and fruits of the tropics. The ingredients used vary in character -and in proportion according to the different houses or localities -manufacturing it. One recipe calls for the following: turmeric, black -pepper, cayenne pepper, nutmeg, ginger, cloves, cinnamon, allspice, -cardamon seeds, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, caraway seeds and -fenugreek. In India the following ingredients are sometimes used, -besides those above named: anise, almonds, asafœtida, butter (ghee), -cocoanut and cocoa oil, cream and curds, various nuts, garlic, lime -juice, mangoes, saffron, salt, and tamarinds. In India alone there -exist nearly forty different methods of preparing curry, to which list -might be added the recipes of the numerous spice houses of Europe and -America. The ingredients of curry are always finely ground and well -mixed. When lime-juice and butter or oil are added to the curry, a -paste is prepared. This is preserved by being packed in earthen jars. -The curries and curry pastes of Ceylon and Java (these being often -combined with garlic) are quite as celebrated as those of India, while -the English and American preparations rank enviably high. - -[Illustration: Mustard.] - -The mustard of commerce consists of the pulverized seed of the mustard -plant, which grows wild in England and which may be cultivated in -nearly every part of the globe, even in India. The use of mustard as -a condiment dates from the Elizabethan age, although it was used -medicinally by the most celebrated physicians of antiquity. It was -first compounded in its present form for table use by an old lady of -Durham, from which circumstance it came to be widely celebrated as -“Durham mustard.” One of the merchants, to whom this industrious old -lady sold her mustard, is credited with saying that he owed his wealth, -not to the mustard which people ate but to that which they left on -their plates. Two varieties of mustard are cultivated, one producing -white seeds, the other, seeds which are tiny and black. Both varieties -of seeds are used, whole, in the spicing of pickles. It is requisite -that mustard possess good keeping qualities, that it be of a bright -yellow color, and have an aromatic as well as pungent flavor. - -[Illustration: Ginger.] - -Horse-radish is a plant allied to the nasturtium and, like the seeds -and stems of the latter, possesses a sharply pungent flavor. It is -native to England and western Europe although cultivated in nearly all -portions of the temperate zone. The root, which is large and fleshy, is -grated, mixed with salt and vinegar, and used as a condiment. It may -be prepared in season and bottled, either with vinegar or dessicated, -keeping for use during the remainder of the year. - -Ginger is a flag-like plant, probably native to the East and West -Indies, the rhizomatous root of which is the only portion commercially -valuable. According to some authorities ginger was known to the -earliest of the Greeks and Romans and has been a common spice among -the nations of Europe, including England, since the eleventh century. -Under the Plantagenets and Tudors ginger was used as a flavoring for -meats, unlike the modern custom of using it only in curries, cakes and -beverages. To-day ginger is exported from both the Indies, that from -Jamaica being particularly fine, from Africa, from China, from India -and from Borneo. The African ginger is of excellent flavor but of dark -color. It is chiefly sold to bakers. That from Borneo is good for -household use, having a sweet and aromatic flavor and containing very -little fibre. From Calcutta the “race” or “hand” ginger is exported, so -called because of the palmate shape of the root. It is exported before -being decorticated and is not a high grade ginger. The root is often -preserved in sugar, being taken when young and succulent. It may be -preserved whole or cut into cubes or slices. Both preserved and dried -it is largely exported from China and Japan. - -Chili is the Spanish name for the pod of the cayenne, the Guinea -pepper, and other species of capsicum. Capsicum is a member of the -night shade family, in no way related to the true pepper. It is native -to tropical America, although now found in nearly all of the warmer -countries. Cayenne is the pod of the capsicum pulverized to extreme -fineness. It should be of a dull, red color and, if very red, is quite -likely to be adulterated, often with red lead or vermilion. Cayenne -pepper is, perhaps, the most acrid and pungent aromatic used and is -also valuable medicinally. There are many varieties of capsicum, the -most noted being the _capsicum annuum_, cultivated in the East Indies, -in Mexico and southern parts of the United States, and from which -cayenne pepper is made; and the _capsicum frutescens_, the Guinea or -bird pepper, a much smaller pod and which, dried whole, is most often -used in cookery. Chilis are used in enormous quantities by natives of -hot countries, a paradoxical custom it appears to be, and the hottest, -most “peppery” dishes known have originated where the sunbeam is -nearest vertical. Those best known to Americans are the _chili con -carne_ and the chicken _tomale_ of Mexico. In the southern states -cayenne is customarily added to all meats, soups and stews. Capsicum -is an agreeable and valuable stimulant, having the medicinal effect of -alcohol without disastrous results from its use. - -[Illustration: Chili Pepper.] - -Mixed seasonings are now to be found in nearly all markets and in point -of convenience deserve to be popular. They consist of the aromatic -herbs and spices, mixed and prepared by experts and intended for the -seasoning of poultry and meats of all kinds. - -Penang or mixed spices, are also a modern preparation and are useful in -cooking, pickling and preserving. They consist of aromatic and pungent -spices mixed in varying proportions. - -Among condiments prepared from animal foods, those of the anchovy, -lobster, shrimp, and Yarmouth bloater are the most common. The anchovy -is a tiny, silvery fish, caught in the Mediterranean sea in vast -quantities. The most famous come from Gorgona, a small island near -Leghorn, where they are caught in nets as they come in from the deeper -waters for the purpose of depositing spawn. Anchovies were used as -a condiment by the most luxurious of the Romans, one preparation, -called “garum,” consisting of the partly decomposed intestines of this -fish mixed with spices. They are now exported for use as a condiment -to all parts of the world, being preserved whole as well as in the -form of pastes and essences. The pastes are prepared by pressing the -fish through a sieve, simple flavorings and some oil being added. -The essences consist of the fish steeped in a highly spiced brine or -pickle, then strained and bottled. Essences of lobster, shrimp, and -various fish are similarly prepared. - -Various appetizing mixtures intended to give relish to meats, fish and -soups, and composed of vegetables, fruits and divers spices, are known -as sauces. “Roots, herbs, vine fruits and salad-flowers, they dish up -various ways and find them a very delicious sauce to their meats, both -roasted and boiled, fresh and salt.” No other sauce made compares with -genuine East Indian chutney. It is a thick sauce, made from the mango -apple, chilies, spices, lemon juice, raisins, figs, salt and sugar. -Those most celebrated are the Bengal Club, Terhoot, Sweet Lucknow and a -number of club chutneys. Trinidad chutney is particularly fine. Ceylon -chutney is often slightly flavored with garlic. Another kind is “mango -chutney, a characteristic Singalese condiment, among the ingredients of -which are fresh, grated cocoanut and chilies carefully brayed together -in a mortar. This chutney is of a rich roseate hue; and after eating it -with his prawn curry the epicure feels like the Grand Turk.” - -Carachi is a sauce little known in America, although, as it is much -liked abroad, I give a recipe for its making, which sufficiently -defines its character: one head of garlic, one dessert spoonful of -cayenne pepper, three table spoonsful each, of soy, mushroom ketchup, -walnut pickle, and mango pickle, five anchovies and a pint of vinegar. - -Cassareep consists of the inspissated juice of the root of the bitter -cassava, flavored with various spices. From the cassava, or manioc, -is prepared tapioca and also cassava flour of which bread is made. The -root is poisonous because of the prussic acid contained, this, however, -being dissipated by heat. After the juice is extracted, it is boiled -down to the color and consistency of molasses, after which spices are -added. It is the basis of Worcestershire and many other sauces and is -valuable in the flavoring of soups and ragouts. It is largely exported -from British Guiana and is used throughout the tropics. - -Worcestershire sauce is one of the commonest of table condiments. It -is prepared from cassareep and varying proportions of spices, garlic, -peppers, and lime-juice, according to the tastes of the various houses -manufacturing it. - -Both lime-juice and Devonshire sauces are similar in preparation and -flavor to Worcestershire, the former being quite acid, owing to the -greater proportion of lime-juice used. - -Ketchup is a sauce made variously from tomatoes, mushrooms, walnuts, -oysters, etc. It should be semi-fluid, about the consistency of a good -purée and, although spices may be added, the original flavor of the -basic ingredients must always be preserved. Color is one desideratum. -In tomato ketchup the sauce is always made of the ripe tomato fruit, -although, as the color is sometimes produced artificially, the only -safeguard lies in purchasing of reliable manufacturers. The tomato -ketchup is a typical American sauce, corresponding in our dietary with -the mushroom ketchup of the English. - -Soy or _shoyu_ is in general use throughout the East, particularly in -China and Japan, that from the latter country being acknowledged the -finest made. One authority states that our word ketchup is derived -from the Chinese name for soy, _kitjap_. The basis of soy, the soy -bean, has been cultivated in Japan since the earliest dynasties, and is -to-day one of their important crops. The different varieties of the soy -bean produce three kinds of soy known as the black, the green and the -white. The process of making soy consists in first boiling the beans -and mixing them with parched barley and wheat, coarsely ground. This -_barm_ is fermented and when the whole mixture is covered with fungi -it is mixed with brine of a certain strength, which has already been -boiled and allowed to cool. This mixture is then kept for fermentation -about twenty-five months. It is stirred with a wooden paddle twice a -day during winter, three times a day in summer and, when sufficiently -fermented, is put through a soy press. It is then heated to 130 degrees -Fahrenheit and, after becoming cold again, is put up in bottles and -casks. It may be preserved for any length of time. In appearance it -resembles Worcestershire sauce and from a nutritive point of view is -superior to any other sauce in our markets. - -Soy is manufactured in every part of Japan, no fewer than 10,682 firms -being engaged in making it in 1891. It is eaten by the entire Japanese -population with every meal and, besides being a sauce, is sufficient -as a salt. Used upon fish, beef-steaks and meats, generally, it gives -a relish that is impossible to the choicest of cookery otherwise. In -Japan it is used by all classes excepting the extremely destitute, who -cannot afford to buy it. - -Tabasco is a popular sauce, the chief ingredient of which is the pulp -of the red pepper. This, a species of chili, came originally from -Central America and through cultivation, largely carried on in the -South, its strength and flavor have been greatly improved. The sauce is -extremely hot with chilis and, as it keeps well in any climate, it is -liked by connoisseurs. - -There are on the market numerous preparations known as salad dressings. -They are useful in cases of inexperience or emergency, but are by no -means equal to the freshly made mayonnaise of the home kitchen. There -is real art in preparing a good mayonnaise and a Spanish proverb reads: -“Four persons are necessary to the making of a salad dressing: a -spendthrift for oil, a miser for vinegar, a counsellor for salt and a -madman to stir it all up.” - -Pickles are those articles of food, fruit or vegetables, which are -preserved by immersion in vinegar, with or without the addition of -salt or spices. Cucumber and green tomato pickles are the commonest -varieties. When vegetables are mixed, as with chow-chow, piccalilli -and “mixed pickles,” cucumbers, small onions, green beans, cabbage, -pepper-pods, cauliflower and various spices are used. Fruits, such as -apple, melon, peach, crab-apple and pear are also pickled. - -Pickled sanphire, although at one time popularly used as a condiment, -is now little known outside of England. It is a variety of sea-weed -and grows upon dangerous and rocky cliffs. Shakespeare refers to -“the sanphire gatherer’s dangerous trade,” and another poet has -apostrophized the - - “Green girdles and crowns of the sea gods, - Cool blossoms of water and foam,” - -quite omitting to mention the fact that the “girdles and crowns” make, -when chopped and packed in vinegar, a most delicious pickle. Unlike -most condiments, this is, as are all seaweeds, nutritious. The people -of the Sandwich Islands, as well as the English, consider sanphire, -both the true and false varieties, a choice condiment. It is specially -liked when served with mutton. - -One of the choicest of condiments is the olive. It is the fruit of -an evergreen tree, native to Syria and lower Asia but now cultivated -extensively in southern Europe and California. Unlike most pickles -it may be classed as a food, owing to the oil contained. The fruit -is picked by hand and carefully sorted about six weeks before it -would ripen. It is first placed in strong lye for about twenty-four -hours, then removed to fresh water where it may remain several days. -After several washings in fresh water the olives are removed and -packed in brine. They are ready for use in from one to three months. -The residents of the olive districts both in Greece, Spain, and in -California often prefer the olive preserved after it has ripened, the -oil having then matured and the flavor being finer. Among the export -trade there is much prejudice against it owing to its dull, black -color. Olives should be of good color, crisp and firm, but never tough. -The Spanish and Italian olives are widely popular but are really no -finer than the best California products. - -The candle-nut, used as a relish and somewhat resembling a green -walnut, is the fruit of a tropical tree. It is chopped fine, packed in -jars, or bottled, with salt added. As a relish it is highly prized, -specially by the natives of the Sandwich Islands. - -[Illustration: Candle-nut.] - -Flavors are used almost entirely in the making of sweetmeats, candies -and pastry. Vanilla is perhaps the most choice, being invariably used -in the preparation of chocolate and cocoa for the market. The vanilla -vine is an orchid, native to Central America, and cultivated in South -America, the West Indies, Mexico, and upon the islands of the Indian -and southern Pacific oceans. The vanilla of commerce is made from -the delicate, volatile oil extracted from the seed-pods. These are -several inches in length and great care is exerted in curing that the -flavor be not destroyed. The curing process occupies about six months. -The vanilla plant bears fruit when about three years old, remaining -productive for thirty or forty years. The best vanilla is exported from -Mexico, while that from Brazil is of an inferior quality. - -The Tonka bean, called also Tongua and Tonquin bean, is frequently -sold as a substitute for or adulterant of vanilla. It belongs to the -_leguminosæ_, producing thick, short pods from which an oil, resembling -vanilla, is extracted. The tree is common in British Guiana and the -tropics and grows to an immense size. It is much cheaper commercially -than vanilla. - -[Illustration: Vanilla Vine and Bean.] - -The extract of bitter almond consists of a tincture made from the -kernel of the nut. The tree of the bitter almond originated, it is -believed, in Prussia, although now growing wild in southern Europe. -The flavor obtained from the kernel is due to the prussic acid -developed in the process of making the tincture. A similar flavor -exists in the kernel and leaves of the peach, a tree allied botanically -to the almond. Flavoring extracts are also made from the orange, lemon, -strawberry, and other fruits. They are also produced chemically, as -many alleged fruit-flavors found upon the market prove, from the -coal-tar products. - -The pistachio or pistache nut is particularly liked by confectioners -because of its delicate flavor, resembling that of the almond. It is -the kernel of a pine-tree, is small and of a light green color. It is -native to Europe and the far East. - -Cordials or _liqueurs_ are used both for flavoring pastries and ices -and, in the way of beverages, as aids to the digestion. In the latter -case they are taken in very small quantities just at the close of a -meal. - -Curaçoa is one of the most celebrated of cordials. It was originally -made in the island of Curaçoa, whence its name, and is prepared from -limes, orange peel and spices. It is still an important source of -revenue to its native island. - -Noyau is a _liqueur_ made from brandy, flavored with bitter almond. - -Ratafia is a _liqueur_ similar to Curaçoa and noyau, which is flavored -with peach and almond extracts and spiced. - -Anisette and kümmel have been already mentioned, the former a cordial -made by the French and Italians and flavored with aniseed; the latter, -a German and Russian _liqueur_, flavored with kümmel or caraway seed. - -Absinthe is a bitter and aromatic cordial, the bitterness being due to -the use of wormwood in its preparation. It is particularly pernicious -and treacherous to use if taken before meals, as is often the custom, -instead of afterward. It is largely used by the French. - -Maraschino is an aromatic cordial, the flavor of which is produced by -the use of the bitter almond and the Italian cherry. - -Chartreuse was originally prepared by the monks of a monastery of that -name in France. For obvious reasons the Pope prohibited its manufacture -by them in 1864 and the original receipt was lost. There are four kinds -now made, of which the green is perhaps the most popular. Chartreuse -possesses the fragrance of garden herbs, the aroma of various spices, -flowers and nuts, and even the balsamy fragrance of the young, green -tassel from the pine tree. These cordials are more largely used in -France and Italy than anywhere else. Owing to a growing sentiment -against their use, they are tolerated to only a limited extent in -America although, because of their common use as flavorings, they are -here mentioned. - -Vegetable acids are also largely used for the flavoring of foods. One -of the oldest known is verjuice, used by the ancients as a beverage. -Its use in cookery is believed to have originated in mediæval France. -It is made from the juice of crab-apples and of unripe grapes. - -Vinegar is a developed acid. The word comes from the French -_vin-aigre_, meaning sour wine. If simple cane sugar be mixed with -water and some ferment, it will turn to grape sugar, then to alcohol, -then to vinegar. However, the best vinegar now used is a fruit acid, -either from apple or grape. It is also made from the red and white -wines and from sour beer, the latter being known as malt vinegar. In -England the law allows a percentage of sulphuric acid to be added to -malt vinegar while in America both sulphuric and muriatic acids are -considered adulterants. Vinegar is the one indispensable ingredient of -pickles and various sauces as well as a valuable condiment. - -Limes and lemons, similar fruits, contain large quantities of acid -which is thoroughly wholesome and agreeable. To some extent these acids -are displacing vinegar as condiments, being considered both more health -giving and more palatable. - -The most complete and instructive exhibition of condiments and spices -ever given was held in the Agricultural Building during the World’s -Columbian Exposition. The nations of all the earth contributed. There -were capers and olives from Italy, spices from Java, chutney from -Trinidad, Calcutta, and the far away island of Ceylon; ketchup from -both England and America, cassareep and pickled limes from British -Guiana, soy from China and Japan, and pickles from lands galore. The -long, daintily curved, vanilla bean was exhibited side by side with its -short, fat, plebeian looking adulterant, the tonka bean. Cordials were -sent from every country exhibiting. There was in one portion of the -building a small conservatory filled with growing spice plants, among -them pimento, ginger, clove, nutmeg, pepper, cassia and cinnamon. - -[Illustratio: A pot surrounded by flowers] - - - - - INDEX. - - - PAGE. - - Absinthe, 40 - - Almond, 38 - - Allspice, 9 - - Anchovy Paste, 31 - - Anise, 14 - - Anisette, 40 - - - Basil, 16 - - Bay Leaves, 18 - - Black Pepper, 12 - - - Candle-Nut, 37 - - Capers, 25 - - Capsicum, _vide_ chili, 20 - - Carachi, 32 - - Caraway, 15 - - Cardamon, 11 - - Cassia, 8 - - Cassareep, 32 - - Catsup, _vide_ Ketchup - - Cayenne, _vide_ Chili - - Celery, 16 - - Chartreuse, 40 - - Chervil, 16 - - Chili, 29 - - Chutney, 32 - - Cinnamon, 7 - - Clove, 6 - - Condiments, antiquity of, 2; - classification of, 3; - digestive value of, 1; - exhibition of, 41; - mediæval use of, 3. - - Coriander, 13 - - Cumin, 13 - - Curaçoa, 39 - - Curry, 26 - - - Devonshire Sauce, 33 - - Dill, 15 - - - Fennel, 17 - - Fenugreek, 14 - - - Garlic, 23 - - Ginger, 29 - - Grains of Paradise, 14 - - Guinea Pepper, 30 - - - Horse-Radish, 28 - - - Ketchup, 33 - - Kümmel, 40 - - - Leek, 23 - - Lemon, 41 - - Lime, 41 - - Lime-juice Sauce, 33 - - Long Pepper, 13 - - - Mace, 11 - - Maraschino, 40 - - Mint, 20 - - Mixed Seasonings, 31 - - Mustard, 26 - - - Noyau, 39 - - Nutmeg, 10 - - - Olive, 36 - - Onion, 22 - - - Parsley, 19 - - Penang Spices, 31 - - Pepper, 11 - - Pickles, 35 - - Pistache Nut, 39 - - - Ratafia, 39 - - - Safflower, 24 - - Saffron, 24 - - Sage, 20 - - Salad Dressings, 35 - - Salt, 5 - - Samphire, 36 - - Sauces, 32 - - Shallot, 24 - - Soy, 34 - - Star Anise, 15 - - Summer Savory, 19 - - Sweet Marjoram, 21 - - - Tabasco Sauce, 35 - - Tarragon, 22 - - Thyme, 19 - - Tonka-bean, 38 - - Turmeric, 25 - - - Vanilla, 37 - - Verjuice, 41 - - Vinegar, 41 - - - Winter Savory, 19 - - Worcestershire Sauce, 33 - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CONDIMENTS, SPICES AND FLAVORS *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Condiments, Spices and Flavors</p> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Anonymous</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: September 13, 2021 [eBook #66284]</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Character set encoding: UTF-8</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: Charlene Taylor, Les Galloway and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)</div> - -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CONDIMENTS, SPICES AND FLAVORS ***</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="transnote"> - -<h3> Transcriber’s Notes</h3> - -<p>Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected.</p> - -<p>The cover was prepared by the transcriber and is placed in the public domain.</p> - -</div> - - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="titlepage" style="max-width: 50em;"> - <img src="images/titlepage.jpg" alt="Titlepage" /> -</div> - -<h1> -Condiments -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spices and ...</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">... Flavors</span><br /> -</h1> - -<p><small><b>Condiments, if properly used, assure digestion and hasten -the absorption of food by the system.—THEODORE CHILD.</b></small></p> - - - - -<p class="center spaced"> -<small><span class="smcap">Copyright, 1894, by</span><br /> -MARY E. GREEN, M. D.<br /></small> -</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="PREFACE">PREFACE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>In this pamphlet no attempt has been made to give specific -directions as to the uses of spices and condiments. It must -be borne in mind that their usage results neither from the -demands of fashion nor of a vitiated sense of taste, but from -their own germicidal and preservative qualities. From the -spiced and perfumed mummies of the Pharaohs to the spiced -apple and pickled pear of our own store-rooms, the same -reason for the use of spices exists—their antiseptic qualities. -A short account of the divers kinds and qualities of these -excellent substances may lead, it is hoped, to a more intelligent -use of them in cookery. Nothing has been said about adulteration, -for, while most of the adulterants of spices are harmless, -still, fraud lies in the fact that the buyer pays a high price for -an article part of which is worthless. As every housewife -cannot be her own chemist, her safeguard lies in buying only -of reliable spice houses.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CONDIMENTS_SPICES_AND_FLAVORS">CONDIMENTS, SPICES AND FLAVORS.</h2> -</div> - - <div class="ddropcapbox"><img class="idropcap" - src="images/image001.jpg" alt="A" /></div> - -<p class="pfirst"> Maxim as ancient as the time of Democritus of Abdera -reads: “Whatever pleases the palate nourishes.” Modern -science has proven the truth of this maxim and has given -us acceptable reason why condiments are no more -necessary in palace of connoisseur than in hut of barbarian, -why they are as eagerly used by the native of Labrador as -by the swarthy son of the tropics; why they are the property of -Mohammedan, Confucian, Buddhist, Gentile and Jew, of all castes, -races and civilizations. Acting principally upon the nervous system -through the sense of smell, condiments stimulate the flow of -both the saliva and gastric juices. They materially aid digestion, -and the familiar phrase, “to make the mouth water,” states a physiological -fact. From this standpoint the fragrant aroma of steaming<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</span> -coffee and the savory odor of a stew are as truly condiments as -pepper and salt; for condiments are the magic wand which transforms -most commonplace of foods into essences, subtle and delicious. -They are equally appropriate to the steaming <i>potage</i> of the French -peasant and the sacrificial altars of Palestine and Greece. Nothing -more closely tests the skill of the cook than his use of these appetizing -flavors. Like genii of the fairy tale, they are willing, versatile -and obedient as slaves; when master their pathway is strewn -with sorrowful though most aromatic wrecks of soups and <i>hors -d’œuvres</i>. They should permeate food as incense does the atmosphere, -delicate, impalpable and as indescribable as they are requisite. -The too abundant use of a certain condiment or spice, the -lack of another or the injudicious mingling of certain others will -ruin the finest pudding, sauce or soup ever compounded.</p> - -<p>Condiments and spices are as ancient as civilization. The -oldest books of the scriptures, notably Exodus, Leviticus, Job and -the Canticles, make frequent reference to salt and spices, substances -which were then costly, chiefly dedicated to royalty and the -uses of temple and altar. The Greeks followed the Semitic customs -to some extent in their disposition of spices, not using them as -largely in their food as have later races. They were fond of aromatic -flavorings and it is said that the laurels of Greece, of which the -cinnamon is a species, possessed that quality to a greater extent<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</span> -than those of any other country, although all laurels have aromatic -leaves.</p> - -<p>Homer in the Iliad refers with naïve surprise to those people -unaccustomed to the use of salt, and in the ninth book pictures -Patroclus as</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“He strews a bed of glowing embers wide,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Above the coals the smoking fragments turns,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And sprinkles sacred salt upon the urns.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>By the mediæval Romans condiments were well liked. They -made, according to one author, a pickle from the tunny fish, just as -their languorous descendants are doing to-day, and also prepared a -condiment from the intestines of the mackerel. “Liver of the -capon, steeped in milk and beccaficoes, and dressed with pepper” -was another of their highly seasoned dishes.</p> - -<p>In the thirteenth century Dante, in the description of the -alchemists and forgers of the tenth gulf of the Inferno, referred to -one Niccolo of Sienna, “who first the spice’s luxury discovered.” -Contemporary with him in England, William Langland, in his -“Vision of Piers the Plowman,” inquired if thou “hast in thy purse -any hot spices?”</p> - -<p>Frequent reference by the writers of that day indicates that -these substances were expensive and used mainly by the luxurious. -Venice had for many years controlled the trade in spices, which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</span> -were brought overland from the Orient in immense caravans, and -not until Diaz and Vasco de Gama, in the fifteenth century, rounded -the cape of Good Hope did their costliness diminish. After that -event spices and condiments ceased to be regarded merely as luxuries -and became as necessary to the plainest of soups as to the -<i>Puree de volaille a la Bearnise</i> of the French chef.</p> - -<p>All classes of people use condiments in some form, from the -wealthy epicure who flavors his terrapin with mace, salt, pepper, -and sherry to the negro who sifts okra through his fingers into his -gumbo soup or the Indian, stirring the contents of a steaming kettle -with twigs of sassafras.</p> - -<p>Condiments have been defined as those substances eaten with -meat and combined with salt while spices are chiefly added to -articles containing sugar. They may be classified as follows:</p> - - -<table class="standard" summary=""> -<tr> -<td class="tdl_bb" rowspan ="5"><span class="smcap">Vegetable</span></td> -<td class="tdl_bb"><span class="smcap lowercase">AROMATICS</span></td> - -<td class="tdl_bb">Clove, cinnamon, cassia-bud, pimento or -allspice, nutmeg, mace, cardamon, pepper, -cumin, coriander, fenugreek, grains of -Paradise, anise, dill, caraway, basil, chervil, -celery, fennel, bay-leaves, summer savory, -parsley, thyme, sage, sweet marjoram, -mint, tarragon, onion, leek, garlic, saffron, -capers, turmeric and curry powder.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl_bb" rowspan="4"><span class="smcap lowercase">PUNGENT AROMATICS</span></td> -<td class="tdl">Mustard,</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">horse-radish,</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl">ginger,</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl_bb">chillies (cayenne pepper). -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</span></td> -</tr> - - -<tr> -<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Mineral</span></td> -<td> </td> -<td class="tdl">Salt.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Animal</span></td> -<td></td><td class="tdl">Pastes and essences of shrimp, lobster, bloater, anchovy, etc.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Sauces</span></td> -<td></td><td class="tdl">Chutney, tabasco, lime juice, Worcestershire, ketchup, -carachi, cassareep and soy.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Pickles</span></td> -<td></td><td class="tdl">Various vegetables and fruits, such as cucumber, olive, -samphire, etc.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Flavors</span></td> -<td></td><td class="tdl">Vanilla, tonka bean, almond, chocolate, orange and -various fruits.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Acids</span></td> -<td></td><td class="tdl">Vinegar, lime juice, verjuice.</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Cordials</span></td> -<td></td><td class="tdl">Curaçoa, Noyau, Ratafia, anisette, kümmel, absinthe, -Chartreuse, Maraschino, etc.</td> -</tr> -</table> - - -<p>Salt is even more valuable as a condiment than as a preservative. -It is used in every staple article of cookery and, as has been said, -“Plutarch was right when he styled salt the condiment of condiments.” -Cereals and vegetables are tasteless without the addition -of that mysterious quantity, “a pinch of salt,” bread is insipid without -a dash of it, as also are meats and puddings. Meats, when so -cooked that their own salts are not extracted, as when roasted, are -more palatable without additional salt than any other food so -prepared.</p> - -<p>Though salt is unused because unattainable by certain barbaric -peoples, such as the Bedouins, it is considered to be a necessity by -all others. Aristotle relates that in Greece a salt spring was believed -to be a direct gift of the gods, salt always comprising part of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</span> -the religious offerings. Salt is referred to in the scriptures more -than a score of times. In Leviticus we find the command that -“every oblation of thy meat offering shall be seasoned with salt.” -In Job occurs the question “can that which is unsavory be eaten -without salt?” The Biblical comparison to salt which has lost its -savor refers to the custom still retained in Oriental countries of -adulterating with earth the salt which -finds its way to the extremely poor, who -cannot pay the original high price. So -costly was salt in the ancient world that -the old caravan routes were first formed -for traffic in this article. The “Salarian -Way” of Rome was so named because of -its immense commerce in salt and to this -day the trade route across the Sahara is -by this means mainly supported. Recently, -the salt beds of Europe and the -salt mines and wells of the western hemisphere -have made this article so abundant -that its cheapness effectually protects it from adulteration.</p> - -<div class="figleft illowp40" id="image006" style="max-width: 20em;"> - <img src="images/image006.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">Clove.</div> -</div> - - -<p>Cloves are the unexpanded flowers of an evergreen tree found -in the East Indies and indigenous to the Molucca Islands. They -are called by the Chinese “fragrant nails” owing to the peculiar<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</span> -shape of the dried clove buds, and the English word is derived from -the Latin <i>clavus</i>, and French <i>clou</i>, also meaning nail. It is doubtful -if cloves were known to the Greeks or Romans, the Venetians -having first obtained them from the Arabians, while the clove trade -was later monopolized by the Portuguese. Then it was owned by -the Dutch who expelled the Portuguese from the Spice Islands in -1605. The Dutch made great effort to control the entire spice trade -of these islands, which was a source of abundant wealth, and were -even known to furnish the market with the adulterated article, the -oil of clove being extracted by pressure and the buds being given a -fresh appearance by a glaze of olive oil. They also preserve the -mother clove, or fully developed fruit. This resembles the olive in -appearance and, being less pungent in flavor than the bud, makes a -dainty sweetmeat. The clove tree is not hardy and grows best when -planted in loamy soil, sheltered from the winds by the hills. It has -been introduced into the West Indies and Guiana. Cloves from the -Moluccas and Ceylon are more valuable, being richer in oil, darker -in color and far more aromatic.</p> - -<p>Cinnamon is the inner bark of a tree allied to the laurels. It is -indigenous to Ceylon and the Penang Islands although believed by -some authorities to have originally come from China, where it has -flourished since the remotest times. As it is mentioned in the Old -Testament it is conjectured that the Hebrews obtained it from the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</span> -Arabians who in turn procured it from India. Later it was mentioned -by Herodotus. It is known that Hippocrates used cinnamon -medicinally and the modern medical world has but recently made -the discovery that oil of cinnamon is a valuable antiseptic and -germicide. Not until 1506 was cinnamon discovered wild in Ceylon -and not until 1770 was it improved by cultivation. The tree grows -to a height of twenty and occasionally thirty feet, although, as the -bark from the young shoots is of finer flavor, that only is used. -Cinnamon shrubs are cultivated in fields, the finest being located in -the region of Colombo, Ceylon. The shoots, which grow in clusters -of from four to ten, are cut to the roots twice a year, after the rains. -The epidermis is peeled off, the bark is put up in bundles about -forty inches long and thus dried and marketed. Three grades are -exported, the finest, thin, of a brownish yellow color, fragrant and -sweet of odor and correspondingly high of price. It is also adulterated -with cassia bark, a cheaper production.</p> - -<p>Cassia is the inner bark of a species of cinnamon called Chinese -cinnamon or <i>cassia lignea</i>. The greater part of it is exported from -China. The bark is put up in bundles about half the length of -cinnamon bark and is more pungent and less sweet of flavor. Cassia -buds are the unripened fruits of the tree which produces Chinese -cassia. In shape and size they resemble cloves, in aroma, cinnamon, -and are usually preserved whole for sweetmeats or spices. Cassia<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</span> -is mentioned by Moses as an ingredient of the holy oil, in Psalms as -a perfume and in Ezekiel as a spice.</p> - -<p>Allspice, sometimes called Jamaica pepper and properly, -<i>pimento</i>, is native to the Island of Jamaica and has not been successfully -cultivated outside of the West Indies. The pimento tree -is an evergreen of the myrtlebloom family, all of which are exotic -trees, and reaches a height of thirty feet. The allspice of commerce -consists of the berries of this tree, exported whole after being dried, -and so called because their aroma resembles that of cloves, cinnamon, -juniper and nutmeg. The berries are gathered when green, -being left on the twigs until dried by the sun, by which means all -the essential oil is retained.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="image009" style="max-width: 50em;"> - <img src="images/image009.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">Cassia Buds.</div> -</div> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</span></p> - -<div class="figleft illowp30" id="image010" style="max-width: 15em;"> - <img src="images/image010.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">Nutmeg.</div> -</div> - -<p>Nutmeg is the kernel of the fruit of an exotic evergreen tree -native to the Banda and other of the East Indian islands. In appearance -it resembles the orange, yielding fruit -when eight or nine years of age and bearing -for fifty or sixty years. It requires a light soil, -moisture and shade, and cannot be propagated -in regions in which these conditions are not -present. The tree bears fruit during most of -the year, in the Molucca and other islands three -crops a year being gathered. The fruit, which -requires nine months in which to mature, is -carefully dried before the pericarp is removed and the -kernel taken out. There are three varieties, the male or barren, -the royal and the queen, the last, a small, round nutmeg, considered -most valuable. The inferior nutmegs are used for the -extraction of nutmeg butter or oil, known as “oil of mace.” About -six per cent of volatile oil is contained. It is stated that more nutmegs -are exported to the United States than to all Europe. The -Dutch formerly preserved the entire fruit, kernel and pericarp, in a -syrup of sweet vinegar for a sweetmeat. This nation when in control -of the spice trade of certain of the East Indian islands made -strenuous efforts to confine the nutmeg tree to the Bandas. But -the “nutmeg bird,” a species of blue pigeon, frustrated their designs<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</span> -by scattering the nuts all over the islands after feeding upon their -pulpy covering. So determined at one time were the Dutch to keep -the price of nutmegs high that, if an unusually large harvest occurred, -part of it was burned by them.</p> - -<p>Mace is the reticulated aril covering the kernel. When fresh, it -is of a crimson color, reaching the golden tint only when dried and -after some months. In its properties it is similar to the nutmeg. -The leaves of the nutmeg tree as well as the fruit are highly aromatic.</p> - -<p>The cardamon is a member of the ginger family and is native to -Malabar, Madagascar and Ceylon. That from the latter country -is of quite large size. It consists of a rhizome or root stock from which -rise tall, flag-like leaves. The flower stem springs directly from the -root and is much shorter, bearing racemiform clusters of small -white flowers. The fruit consists of greenish pods half an inch in -length, each pod being three capsuled and containing numerous -seeds. These seeds are pungent in flavor and constitute the valuable -part of the plant. The pods are dried slowly as rapid drying -causes them to split, thereby losing the seeds. Cardamon seeds -were used by the ancient Greeks both as a spice and as medicine.</p> - -<p>Pepper, with cinnamon, salt and incense, was one of the staple -commodities which anciently passed over the caravan routes between -Venice and India. At that time its price was extremely -high and, according to E. M. Holmes, rents were frequently paid<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</span> -in this article as late as the middle ages. After the sack of -Rome by the barbarians one of the articles of tribute demanded -by Alaric was a thousand pounds of pepper. As -late as the eighteenth century the pepper trade was -confined to the Portuguese. In recent years it has -become one of the cheapest of our spices.</p> - -<div class="figleft illowp30" id="image012" style="max-width: 20em;"> - <img src="images/image012.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">Round Pepper.</div> -</div> - -<p>The pepper plant is a vine, of the order <i>piperaceæ</i>, -which grows wild in China, is also indigenous -to Malabar and other islands of the East -Indies, and has been introduced into the West -Indies. The plants require a rich moist soil, -bearing after the fourth year and continuing -fruitful for from eight to fourteen years. The most famous of -the pepper islands are the Penang, which furnish more than -half the amount produced by the entire East Indies. Only -the berries of the pepper plant are valuable and these, being -gathered before fully developed, have a wrinkled appearance when -dried. The berries used for white pepper are decorticated either in -the islands or in London and reach the United States ready for -grinding. The finest grade passes through more than twenty different -operations before it is considered marketable.</p> - -<p>Black pepper differs from the white in the leaving on of the -hull, which is black and contains the acrid principles of the flavor.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</span> -Hence, white pepper is less pungent and fully as fine in flavor as -the black. Shot pepper consists of the finest berries, those richest -in oil. It is selected by throwing a quantity of the berries in water. -Those which sink are collected, labeled, and sold as shot pepper.</p> - -<p>Long pepper, referred to by the Greeks as <i>piperi macron</i>, is the -unripe fruit of a species of pepper, an inch or more in length and -and shaped like a spike. The flavor is similar to that of ordinary -black pepper. African pepper is another variety. Those best -known to the western markets are Penang, Tellicherry and Malabar.</p> - -<p>Cumin or cummin is a small herbaceous plant, native to Egypt -and very early cultivated in the Mediterranean countries. It is now -grown in India, Sicily and Malta, the seeds only being valuable. -These contain a large proportion of essential oil which gives them -an aromatic but acrid flavor. They are not now used in cookery -though receipts are still extant which prove them to have once -been considered a valuable culinary spice. The Latin poets relate -that the ancients used cumin seeds medicinally, their effect being -to produce languor. They are referred to in Isaiah as being -“beaten out with a rod” and also in the Mosaic law regarding tithes.</p> - -<p>Coriander is a small umbelliferous plant native to the eastern -of the Mediterranean countries but now cultivated quite generally -in both Europe and America. The fruits, erroneously called the -seeds, are nearly always mentioned in the earlier recipes for meats<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</span> -and puddings and to this day many a country housewife considers -them indispensable to the flavoring of -dried apple pies. The plant grows wild -in all parts of Palestine, especially in the -Jordan valley.</p> - -<div class="figleft illowp40" id="image014" style="max-width: 25em;"> - <img src="images/image014.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">Coriander.</div> -</div> - - -<p>Fenugreek is an herbaceous plant allied -to the clover. It is native to the -Asiatic countries and is still cultivated in -France and Germany. The seeds were -formerly used as a spice, but now only as -an ingredient of curry powder, owing to -their strong, bitter and unpleasant flavor.</p> - -<p>Grains of Paradise are the dried seeds of a reed-like plant allied -to the ginger family and indigenous to western Africa. The fruit -which contains the seeds is four or five inches in length and of a -bright red color. The seed are now never used, excepting occasionally -by brewers. Formerly they were esteemed as a spice for cookery -and were one of the ingredients of the famous Norwich herring pies -of old England. In flavor they are extremely hot and pungent.</p> - -<p>Anise is a little annual of the order umbelliferæ and scarcely -more than a foot in height. It is indigenous to Europe, although -cultivated in many of the northern Mediterranean countries. The -seeds are powerful aromatics, used both medicinally and in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</span> -preparation of a <i>liqueur</i> called “anisette,” which is to the Italians -what kümmel is to the Germans. The star -anise is a tree allied to the magnolias, -the seeds of which are stronger and less -pleasant of flavor than those of the common -anise. They are called star aniseed -from the star-like shape of the fruit. -The anise mentioned in the New Testament -as part of the tithes is a different -plant, believed to be dill.</p> - -<p>Dill is a small herb, native to Spain, -which produces umbelliferous stalks of -yellow flowers. It is still cultivated in -portions of temperate Europe. An aromatic -oil is extracted from the tiny seeds -which are also used, whole, for flavoring -pickles.</p> - -<div class="figleft illowp40" id="image015" style="max-width: 20em;"> - <img src="images/image015.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">Caraway.</div> -</div> - -<p>Caraway is also an umbelliferous -plant growing wild in the meadows and -pastures of both Europe and Asia. It is -cultivated for its mildly aromatic seeds, -although in the northern countries of -Europe the root, which resembles the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</span> -parsnip, is also eaten. No aromatic of temperate climates is more -common than the dainty, white-blooming plant growing in the -kitchen gardens of both hemispheres. Its seeds are used for the -spicing of cheese, cakes and candies, and in Germany in the rye -bread called “kümmel-brod,” which is universally eaten. The -seeds are also used in the making of an aromatic cordial called -“kümmel.”</p> - -<p>Basil is not now used as extensively in cooking -as formerly. Its native haunts are India and Persia, -although since it yields gracefully to culture, it is -to be found in many old-fashioned kitchen gardens. -Its aromatic properties are similar to those of other -garden herbs.</p> - -<div class="figleft illowp30" id="image016" style="max-width: 20em;"> - <img src="images/image016.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption"> Basil.</div> -</div> - -<p>Chervil is an umbelliferous annual possessing -aromatic leaves and somewhat resembling -parsley in flavor. It is used in Europe as a pot-herb -for soups and stews, but is chiefly known in -America as one of the obsolete delicacies which -deserve to be still popular. The root, which is -fleshy and fusiform in shape, is cooked and eaten -by the people of southern Europe.</p> - -<p>Celery is a veritable plebeian, originally growing -wild in the ditches and fens of Europe, a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</span> -coarse, offensive and poisonous vegetable. Few plants are so susceptible -to the influences of cultivation and it is difficult to recognize its -unaristocratic prototype in the tender, white and aromatic stalks of -the garden product. It belongs to the parsley family and every portion -is useful to the cook, from the daintily curled tops which may be -used for both flavor and garnish, the stalks which may be eaten -plain, dressed raw in salad or cooked, to the seeds, the flavor of -which makes even the poorest of soups relishable. The seeds are -now commonly ground for the making of “celery salt” or “celery -pepper,” as the same product is variously called. A variety of -celery, called <i>celeriac</i>, is cultivated in certain European countries, -notably Germany, the root only, which is large and fleshy, being -eaten. The famous “wild celery” of Chesapeake Bay is simply “eelgrass,” -an aquatic plant which bears no relationship whatever to the -umbelliferæ, of which order celery is a species.</p> - -<p>Fennel is an umbelliferous plant, native to portions of temperate -Europe and Asia, especially Portugal. The fruits possess an -aromatic flavor while the tender shoots are used for salad. The -plant and its culinary value was well known to the Romans, and it is -to-day cultivated in both Europe and America. The fruits of the -European fennel are used in the making of an aromatic drink, -while in America the plant is chiefly cultivated for its leaves. It -has been said that fennel is to fish what mint is to lamb, and in cer<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</span>tain -of the southern states mackerel is considered of too strong a -flavor to be eaten unless cooked with fennel. The fennel thus used -grows wild, the green leaves being tied in bunches and boiled with -the fish.</p> - -<div class="figleft illowp70" id="image018" style="max-width: 50em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/image018.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">Bay Leaves.</div> -</div> - -<p>Bay leaves are the -leaves of a shrub belonging -to the laurel -tribe, which grows wild -in the Mediterranean -countries. Among the -Greeks the bay leaf was -consecrated to the uses -of poetry, heroism and -religion. Not until later -times was it used as a flavoring for foods and for the decoration -of various dishes. It grows wild in certain of the southern -states but the leaves are usually exported from Europe, dried. The -leaves are used in soups, stews and pickles and, although the average -housewife finds it next to impossible to procure them, scarcely a -recipe for these articles of food but includes bay leaves among its -flavorings.</p> - -<p>Summer savory is a hardy little annual which has long grown -wild in southern Europe and is now largely cultivated for culinary<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</span> -use. Both the summer and winter savories are fragrant and are -valuable in the seasoning of sausages and gravies.</p> - -<p>Parsley is a native of the island of Sardinia and, having been -improved in both fragrance and appearance by culture, is more valuable -than any other herb for the garnishing of dishes. Its curled, -crisp, green leaves give the poorest salad or meat a tempting appearance, -well sustained by the fineness of flavor it imparts. -Its flavor somewhat resembles that of celery. The little herb -may be seen in nearly every garden during the summer months -and often in a pot, or kitchen window-box during the winter, from -which it may be plucked fresh daily. The experienced cook would -part with any other half dozen condiments more willingly than -with parsley. The plant belongs to the <i>umbelliferæ</i>, which order includes -the carrot, parsnip and celery. It is said to have come -originally from Egypt and mythology represents Hercules as adorning -his head with its curled leaves.</p> - -<p>Thyme, a little under shrub native to the Mediterranean countries, -is allied botanically to sage, summer savory and sweet basil. -It possesses very small leaves and whorls of tiny, lilac-colored -flowers, from which thymol or oil of thyme, a valuable germicide, is -distilled. In flavor it is fragrant and aromatic and it may be -readily cultivated in gardens. The wild thyme of our banks “where -ox-lips and the nodding violet grows,” is a different variety of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</span> -same order. Its name is derived from the Greek word <i>thumos</i>, -meaning incense or perfume.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="image020" style="max-width: 50em;"> - <img src="images/image020.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">Thyme.</div> -</div> - -<p>Sage is a small plant of the order <i>labiatæ</i>, and is native to -southern Europe. It has been so greatly changed by cultivation -that little semblance of the original plant now remains in the sage -of our gardens excepting the flavor. It was known to the ancients -and to-day its fragrant, grayish green leaves constitute one of our -commonest flavorings.</p> - -<p>It was an Englishman who once said that “mint made lamb out -of an old sheep”! Perhaps he loved it also because of the legend -that it once existed in the form of a beautiful maiden, transformed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</span> -by Persephone into the modest aromatic of our gardens. The mint -designated is that member of the labiate family known as spear -mint, native to Europe but grown in all portions of the United -States and largely marketed. It is a small, green herb, the leaves -being highly aromatic and, when bruised, yielding a valuable essential -oil. It is equally liked in the mint sauce so indispensable to -mutton and the mint-julep—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent8">“This cordial julep here,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">That flames and dances in his crystal bounds.”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="image021" style="max-width: 75em;"> - <img src="images/image021.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">Mint.</div> -</div> - -<p>Sweet marjoram grows wild in Spain and Portugal and, in a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</span> -cultivated state, throughout Europe and the United States. It is a -member of the mint family and, like spear mint, possesses aromatic -leaves.</p> - -<p>Tarragon is a small, aromatic herb, native to -Liberia. It is cultivated in Europe and is the -<i>estragon</i> of the French, who use the young -plants largely for salads. It is hardy, and is -grown extensively in America, being used for -flavoring vinegar, mustard and pickles. Tarragon -vinegar, from the excellence of its flavor, -should have a place in every household.</p> - -<div class="figleft illowp35" id="image022" style="max-width: 15em;"> - <img src="images/image022.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">Tarragon.</div> -</div> - -<p>The onion is believed to have originated in -Egypt although it was known in very early times -in India. In the former country it was worshiped as a deity. -“Cucumbers, and the melons, and the leeks, and the onions, -and the garlick” formed the daily food of the Israelites in -Egypt. Italy and Spain are now noted for the immense -size of the onions grown there, as also are the Bermuda -Islands. Those of the latter place possess a far milder flavor, a -condition due to soil and climate. The flavor of onion, when strong, -is unpleasant to some people to a nauseating degree and it is hard -to see in it any resemblance to its dainty cousins, the lily and the -hyacinth. But when skillfully used it is a valuable and wholesome<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</span> -culinary condiment and is more largely employed by the average -cook than the uninitiated ever suspect. Says one author: “The -onion is the sheet anchor of the skillful cook. It is impossible to -prepare the delicate Bordelaise sauce without resorting to the use -of onions and a shade of garlic, ... and it is the judicious use -of these two seasonings that stamps the expert cook.”</p> - -<p>The leek is a member of the onion family, similar in flavor, -although milder, and the leaves of which are flat instead of tubular. -It has been stated that in England the leek was once considered to -be the typical plant, both onion and garlic being but species. The -diet of the soldiers of ancient Greece was at one time leeks and -cheese, a custom which Bulwer has satirized in a Neo-Greek outburst -of rhyme:</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent4">“Away, away, with the helm and greaves,</div> - <div class="verse indent4">Away with the leeks and cheese!</div> - <div class="verse indent0">I have conquered my passion for wounds and blows,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">And the worst that I wish to the worst of my foes</div> - <div class="verse indent8">Is the glory and gain</div> - <div class="verse indent8">Of a year’s campaign</div> - <div class="verse indent4">On a diet of leeks and cheese!”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Garlic possesses an onion-like bulb around which smaller bulbs -cluster, the whole covered by a membranous outer layer. Each -bulb is described as a “clove” of garlic and in flavor is far more<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</span> -demonstrative than onion. Shallot, on the contrary, is the daintiest -of the onion tribe, growing from a cluster of roots -and never forming a compact bulb.</p> - -<div class="figleft illowp30" id="image024" style="max-width: 15em;"> - <img src="images/image024.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">Garlic.</div> -</div> - -<p>Saffron, a plant of the crocus family, was largely -used in mediæval Europe as a condiment, although to-day -its value as a coloring substance is considered of -most account. The coloring matter is obtained from -the stigmas of the flower, which are of a deep orange -hue. The plant grows wild in Asia Minor, is possibly -native to Arabia, and has long been extensively cultivated -throughout the Mediterranean countries. That exported from -Spain is considered the finest. At one time in Germany the -adulteration of saffron was held criminal and punishable by death. -History records the burning, in 1444, of a man with his adulterated -saffron and, a dozen years later, the burning of two men and a woman -for a similar offense. The salutary effect of this penalty was not -permanent, however, as it is to-day extensively adulterated with a -cheaper article known as safflower. In the Orient, a few nations still -add saffron to their rice both for flavor and color while in Europe it -is now most largely used for coloring macaroni, vermicelli and other -pastes. Saffron is mentioned in the Old Testament in connection -with spikenard, cinnamon and other spices, and appears to have been -used by the early Greeks medicinally, and as both dye and perfume.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</span></p> - -<p>Capers are the unopened flowers of a -low, trailing shrub which grows wild in -Africa and southern Europe. It is native -to Italy and is said to have grown wild -upon the walls of ancient Rome. It is -cultivated in France, only the small, grayish -green, flower buds being of commercial -value. They possess an aromatic and -slightly pungent flavor and, when preserved -as is usual in either salt or vinegar, -are used for flavoring gravies, being well-nigh -indispensable in the serving of roast -mutton. Four or five grades of capers -are exported, the finest grade consisting -of the tiniest and most perfect buds which gradually diminish in -value as they increase in size.</p> - -<div class="figleft illowp50" id="image025" style="max-width: 20em;"> - <img src="images/image025.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">Capers.</div> -</div> - -<p>Turmeric, while classed with condiments owing to its pungent -and aromatic properties, is most extensively used as a coloring -agent. It is obtained from the root of the <i>curcuma longa</i>, a plant -allied to the ginger family and native to India and Annam. It is -used as a condiment only by the Orientals who flavor their rice with -it, its greatest value to the cooking world being due to the fact that -it is one of the chief ingredients of curry powder.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</span></p> - -<p>Curry powder is a manufactured condiment, one of the most -aromatic and highly seasoned used. It originated in the East -Indies, through the skill of whom it is not known. The story goes -that the famed and delicious cookery of the Orient came about in -this fashion. The early English, French and Dutch, when setting -out for the East Indies, each determined to seize and appropriate -the islands, spices and all; for fear of being compelled to eat poor -and unappetizing food took with them their most accomplished -cooks. From the friendly concourse of these chefs arose certain -of the celebrated eastern dishes, and from its ingredients it is easy -to believe that curry was one of them; for in it are united, with the -herbs of the temperate zones, the spices and fruits of the tropics. -The ingredients used vary in character and in proportion according -to the different houses or localities manufacturing it. One recipe -calls for the following: turmeric, black pepper, cayenne pepper, nutmeg, -ginger, cloves, cinnamon, allspice, cardamon seeds, coriander -seeds, cumin seeds, caraway seeds and fenugreek. In India the following -ingredients are sometimes used, besides those above named: -anise, almonds, asafœtida, butter (ghee), cocoanut and cocoa oil, -cream and curds, various nuts, garlic, lime juice, mangoes, saffron, -salt, and tamarinds. In India alone there exist nearly forty -different methods of preparing curry, to which list might be added -the recipes of the numerous spice houses of Europe and America.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</span> -The ingredients of curry are always finely ground and well mixed. -When lime-juice and butter or oil are added to the curry, a paste is -prepared. This is preserved by being packed in earthen jars. The -curries and curry pastes of Ceylon and Java (these being often combined -with garlic) are quite as celebrated as those of India, while -the English and American preparations rank enviably high.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="image027" style="max-width: 50em;"> - <img src="images/image027.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">Mustard.</div> -</div> - -<p>The mustard of commerce consists of the pulverized seed of the -mustard plant, which grows wild in England and which may be -cultivated in nearly every part of the globe, even in India. The use -of mustard as a condiment dates from the Elizabethan age, although<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</span> -it was used medicinally by the most celebrated physicians of -antiquity. It was first compounded in its present form for table -use by an old lady of Durham, from which circumstance it came to -be widely celebrated as “Durham mustard.” One of the merchants, -to whom this industrious old lady sold her mustard, is credited with -saying that he owed his wealth, not to the -mustard which people ate but to that which -they left on their plates. Two varieties of -mustard are cultivated, one producing white -seeds, the other, seeds which are tiny and black. -Both varieties of seeds are used, whole, in the -spicing of pickles. It is requisite that mustard -possess good keeping qualities, that it be of a -bright yellow color, and have an aromatic as -well as pungent flavor.</p> - -<div class="figleft illowp40" id="image028" style="max-width: 15em;"> - <img src="images/image028.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">Ginger.</div> -</div> - -<p>Horse-radish is a plant allied to the nasturtium -and, like the seeds and stems of the -latter, possesses a sharply pungent flavor. It -is native to England and western Europe -although cultivated in nearly all portions of -the temperate zone. The root, which is large -and fleshy, is grated, mixed with salt and -vinegar, and used as a condiment. It may be prepared in season<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</span> -and bottled, either with vinegar or dessicated, keeping for use -during the remainder of the year.</p> - -<p>Ginger is a flag-like plant, probably native to the East and -West Indies, the rhizomatous root of which is the only portion -commercially valuable. According to some authorities ginger was -known to the earliest of the Greeks and Romans and has been -a common spice among the nations of Europe, including England, -since the eleventh century. Under the Plantagenets and Tudors -ginger was used as a flavoring for meats, unlike the modern -custom of using it only in curries, cakes and beverages. To-day -ginger is exported from both the Indies, that from Jamaica -being particularly fine, from Africa, from China, from India -and from Borneo. The African ginger is of excellent flavor -but of dark color. It is chiefly sold to bakers. That from Borneo -is good for household use, having a sweet and aromatic flavor and containing -very little fibre. From Calcutta the “race” or “hand” ginger -is exported, so called because of the palmate shape of the root. -It is exported before being decorticated and is not a high grade -ginger. The root is often preserved in sugar, being taken when -young and succulent. It may be preserved whole or cut into -cubes or slices. Both preserved and dried it is largely exported -from China and Japan.</p> - -<p>Chili is the Spanish name for the pod of the cayenne,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</span> -the Guinea pepper, and other species of capsicum. Capsicum -is a member of the night shade family, in no -way related to the true pepper. It is native to tropical -America, although now found in nearly all of the -warmer countries. Cayenne is the pod of the capsicum -pulverized to extreme fineness. It should be of a dull, -red color and, if very red, is quite likely to be adulterated, -often with red lead or vermilion. Cayenne pepper -is, perhaps, the most acrid and pungent aromatic -used and is also valuable medicinally. There are many varieties of -capsicum, the most noted being the <i>capsicum annuum</i>, cultivated in -the East Indies, in Mexico and southern parts of the United States, -and from which cayenne pepper is made; and the <i>capsicum frutescens</i>, -the Guinea or bird pepper, a much smaller pod and which, -dried whole, is most often used in cookery. Chilis are used in enormous -quantities by natives of hot countries, a paradoxical custom it -appears to be, and the hottest, most “peppery” dishes known have -originated where the sunbeam is nearest vertical. Those best -known to Americans are the <i>chili con carne</i> and the chicken <i>tomale</i> -of Mexico. In the southern states cayenne is customarily added to -all meats, soups and stews. Capsicum is an agreeable and valuable -stimulant, having the medicinal effect of alcohol without disastrous -results from its use.</p> - -<div class="figleft illowp20" id="image030" style="max-width: 10em;"> - <img src="images/image030.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"> Chili Pepper.</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</span></p> - -<p>Mixed seasonings are now to be found in nearly all markets and -in point of convenience deserve to be popular. They consist of the -aromatic herbs and spices, mixed and prepared by experts and intended -for the seasoning of poultry and meats of all kinds.</p> - -<p>Penang or mixed spices, are also a modern preparation and are -useful in cooking, pickling and preserving. They consist of aromatic -and pungent spices mixed in varying proportions.</p> - -<p>Among condiments prepared from animal foods, those of the -anchovy, lobster, shrimp, and Yarmouth bloater are the most common. -The anchovy is a tiny, silvery fish, caught in the Mediterranean -sea in vast quantities. The most famous come from Gorgona, a -small island near Leghorn, where they are caught in nets as they -come in from the deeper waters for the purpose of depositing spawn. -Anchovies were used as a condiment by the most luxurious of the -Romans, one preparation, called “garum,” consisting of the partly -decomposed intestines of this fish mixed with spices. They are now -exported for use as a condiment to all parts of the world, being preserved -whole as well as in the form of pastes and essences. The -pastes are prepared by pressing the fish through a sieve, simple -flavorings and some oil being added. The essences consist of the -fish steeped in a highly spiced brine or pickle, then strained and -bottled. Essences of lobster, shrimp, and various fish are similarly -prepared.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</span></p> - -<p>Various appetizing mixtures intended to give relish to meats, -fish and soups, and composed of vegetables, fruits and divers spices, -are known as sauces. “Roots, herbs, vine fruits and salad-flowers, -they dish up various ways and find them a very delicious sauce to -their meats, both roasted and boiled, fresh and salt.” No other -sauce made compares with genuine East Indian chutney. It is a -thick sauce, made from the mango apple, chilies, spices, lemon juice, -raisins, figs, salt and sugar. Those most celebrated are the Bengal -Club, Terhoot, Sweet Lucknow and a number of club chutneys. -Trinidad chutney is particularly fine. Ceylon chutney is often -slightly flavored with garlic. Another kind is “mango chutney, a -characteristic Singalese condiment, among the ingredients of which -are fresh, grated cocoanut and chilies carefully brayed together in a -mortar. This chutney is of a rich roseate hue; and after eating it -with his prawn curry the epicure feels like the Grand Turk.”</p> - -<p>Carachi is a sauce little known in America, although, as it is -much liked abroad, I give a recipe for its making, which sufficiently -defines its character: one head of garlic, one dessert spoonful of -cayenne pepper, three table spoonsful each, of soy, mushroom -ketchup, walnut pickle, and mango pickle, five anchovies and a pint -of vinegar.</p> - -<p>Cassareep consists of the inspissated juice of the root of the -bitter cassava, flavored with various spices. From the cassava, or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</span> -manioc, is prepared tapioca and also cassava flour of which bread -is made. The root is poisonous because of the prussic acid contained, -this, however, being dissipated by heat. After the juice is -extracted, it is boiled down to the color and consistency of molasses, -after which spices are added. It is the basis of Worcestershire and -many other sauces and is valuable in the flavoring of soups and -ragouts. It is largely exported from British Guiana and is used -throughout the tropics.</p> - -<p>Worcestershire sauce is one of the commonest of table condiments. -It is prepared from cassareep and varying proportions of -spices, garlic, peppers, and lime-juice, according to the tastes of the -various houses manufacturing it.</p> - -<p>Both lime-juice and Devonshire sauces are similar in preparation -and flavor to Worcestershire, the former being quite acid, owing -to the greater proportion of lime-juice used.</p> - -<p>Ketchup is a sauce made variously from tomatoes, mushrooms, -walnuts, oysters, etc. It should be semi-fluid, about the consistency -of a good purée and, although spices may be added, the original -flavor of the basic ingredients must always be preserved. Color is -one desideratum. In tomato ketchup the sauce is always made of -the ripe tomato fruit, although, as the color is sometimes produced -artificially, the only safeguard lies in purchasing of reliable manufacturers. -The tomato ketchup is a typical American sauce, corre<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</span>sponding -in our dietary with the mushroom ketchup of the English.</p> - -<p>Soy or <i>shoyu</i> is in general use throughout the East, particularly -in China and Japan, that from the latter country being acknowledged -the finest made. One authority states that our word ketchup is derived -from the Chinese name for soy, <i>kitjap</i>. The basis of soy, -the soy bean, has been cultivated in Japan since the earliest -dynasties, and is to-day one of their important crops. The different -varieties of the soy bean produce three kinds of soy known as the -black, the green and the white. The process of making soy consists -in first boiling the beans and mixing them with parched barley and -wheat, coarsely ground. This <i>barm</i> is fermented and when the -whole mixture is covered with fungi it is mixed with brine of a certain -strength, which has already been boiled and allowed to cool. -This mixture is then kept for fermentation about twenty-five -months. It is stirred with a wooden paddle twice a day during -winter, three times a day in summer and, when sufficiently fermented, -is put through a soy press. It is then heated to 130 degrees -Fahrenheit and, after becoming cold again, is put up in bottles and -casks. It may be preserved for any length of time. In appearance -it resembles Worcestershire sauce and from a nutritive point of -view is superior to any other sauce in our markets.</p> - -<p>Soy is manufactured in every part of Japan, no fewer than -10,682 firms being engaged in making it in 1891. It is eaten by the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</span> -entire Japanese population with every meal and, besides being a -sauce, is sufficient as a salt. Used upon fish, beef-steaks and meats, -generally, it gives a relish that is impossible to the choicest of cookery -otherwise. In Japan it is used by all classes excepting the -extremely destitute, who cannot afford to buy it.</p> - -<p>Tabasco is a popular sauce, the chief ingredient of which is the -pulp of the red pepper. This, a species of chili, came originally -from Central America and through cultivation, largely carried on in -the South, its strength and flavor have been greatly improved. The -sauce is extremely hot with chilis and, as it keeps well in any climate, -it is liked by connoisseurs.</p> - -<p>There are on the market numerous preparations known as salad -dressings. They are useful in cases of inexperience or emergency, -but are by no means equal to the freshly made mayonnaise of the -home kitchen. There is real art in preparing a good mayonnaise -and a Spanish proverb reads: “Four persons are necessary to the -making of a salad dressing: a spendthrift for oil, a miser for vinegar, -a counsellor for salt and a madman to stir it all up.”</p> - -<p>Pickles are those articles of food, fruit or vegetables, which are -preserved by immersion in vinegar, with or without the addition of -salt or spices. Cucumber and green tomato pickles are the commonest -varieties. When vegetables are mixed, as with chow-chow, -piccalilli and “mixed pickles,” cucumbers, small onions, green beans,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</span> -cabbage, pepper-pods, cauliflower and various spices are used. -Fruits, such as apple, melon, peach, crab-apple and pear are also -pickled.</p> - -<p>Pickled sanphire, although at one time popularly used as a condiment, -is now little known outside of England. It is a variety of -sea-weed and grows upon dangerous and rocky cliffs. Shakespeare -refers to “the sanphire gatherer’s dangerous trade,” and another poet -has apostrophized the</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">“Green girdles and crowns of the sea gods,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Cool blossoms of water and foam,”</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>quite omitting to mention the fact that the “girdles and crowns” -make, when chopped and packed in vinegar, a most delicious pickle. -Unlike most condiments, this is, as are all seaweeds, nutritious. -The people of the Sandwich Islands, as well as the English, consider -sanphire, both the true and false varieties, a choice condiment. It -is specially liked when served with mutton.</p> - -<p>One of the choicest of condiments is the olive. It is the fruit of -an evergreen tree, native to Syria and lower Asia but now cultivated -extensively in southern Europe and California. Unlike most -pickles it may be classed as a food, owing to the oil contained. The -fruit is picked by hand and carefully sorted about six weeks before -it would ripen. It is first placed in strong lye for about twenty-four -hours, then removed to fresh water where it may remain several<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</span> -days. After several washings in fresh water the olives are removed -and packed in brine. They are ready for use in from one to three -months. The residents of the olive districts -both in Greece, Spain, and in California often -prefer the olive preserved after it has ripened, -the oil having then matured and the flavor -being finer. Among the export trade there is -much prejudice against it owing to its dull, -black color. Olives should be of good color, -crisp and firm, but never tough. The Spanish -and Italian olives are widely popular but are -really no finer than the best California products.</p> - -<div class="figleft illowp50" id="image037" style="max-width: 20em;"> - <img src="images/image037.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">Candle-nut.</div> -</div> - -<p>The candle-nut, used as a relish and somewhat -resembling a green walnut, is the fruit of -a tropical tree. It is chopped fine, packed in -jars, or bottled, with salt added. As a relish -it is highly prized, specially by the natives of the Sandwich Islands.</p> - -<p>Flavors are used almost entirely in the making of sweetmeats, -candies and pastry. Vanilla is perhaps the most choice, being -invariably used in the preparation of chocolate and cocoa for the -market. The vanilla vine is an orchid, native to Central America, -and cultivated in South America, the West Indies, Mexico, and -upon the islands of the Indian and southern Pacific oceans. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</span> -vanilla of commerce is made from the delicate, volatile oil extracted -from the seed-pods. These are several inches in length -and great care is exerted in curing that the flavor be not destroyed. -The curing process occupies about six months. The vanilla plant -bears fruit when about three years old, remaining productive for -thirty or forty years. The best vanilla is exported from Mexico, -while that from Brazil is of an inferior quality.</p> - -<div class="figleft illowp60" id="image038" style="max-width: 20em;"> - <img src="images/image038.jpg" alt="" /> - <div class="caption">Vanilla Vine and Bean.</div> -</div> - -<p>The Tonka bean, called also -Tongua and Tonquin bean, is frequently -sold as a substitute for or -adulterant of vanilla. It belongs to -the <i>leguminosæ</i>, producing thick, -short pods from which an oil, resembling -vanilla, is extracted. The -tree is common in British Guiana and -the tropics and grows to an immense -size. It is much cheaper commercially -than vanilla.</p> - -<p>The extract of bitter almond consists -of a tincture made from the -kernel of the nut. The tree of the -bitter almond originated, it is believed, -in Prussia, although now growing wild<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</span> -in southern Europe. The flavor obtained from the kernel is due to the -prussic acid developed in the process of making the tincture. A similar -flavor exists in the kernel and leaves of the peach, a tree allied -botanically to the almond. Flavoring extracts are also made from -the orange, lemon, strawberry, and other fruits. They are also produced -chemically, as many alleged fruit-flavors found upon the -market prove, from the coal-tar products.</p> - -<p>The pistachio or pistache nut is particularly liked by confectioners -because of its delicate flavor, resembling that of the almond. -It is the kernel of a pine-tree, is small and of a light green color. -It is native to Europe and the far East.</p> - -<p>Cordials or <i>liqueurs</i> are used both for flavoring pastries and -ices and, in the way of beverages, as aids to the digestion. In -the latter case they are taken in very small quantities just at the -close of a meal.</p> - -<p>Curaçoa is one of the most celebrated of cordials. It was -originally made in the island of Curaçoa, whence its name, and is -prepared from limes, orange peel and spices. It is still an important -source of revenue to its native island.</p> - -<p>Noyau is a <i>liqueur</i> made from brandy, flavored with bitter -almond.</p> - -<p>Ratafia is a <i>liqueur</i> similar to Curaçoa and noyau, which is -flavored with peach and almond extracts and spiced.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</span></p> - -<p>Anisette and kümmel have been already mentioned, the former -a cordial made by the French and Italians and flavored with aniseed; -the latter, a German and Russian <i>liqueur</i>, flavored with kümmel or -caraway seed.</p> - -<p>Absinthe is a bitter and aromatic cordial, the bitterness being -due to the use of wormwood in its preparation. It is particularly -pernicious and treacherous to use if taken before meals, as is -often the custom, instead of afterward. It is largely used by the -French.</p> - -<p>Maraschino is an aromatic cordial, the flavor of which is produced -by the use of the bitter almond and the Italian cherry.</p> - -<p>Chartreuse was originally prepared by the monks of a monastery -of that name in France. For obvious reasons the Pope prohibited -its manufacture by them in 1864 and the original receipt -was lost. There are four kinds now made, of which the green is perhaps -the most popular. Chartreuse possesses the fragrance of -garden herbs, the aroma of various spices, flowers and nuts, and even -the balsamy fragrance of the young, green tassel from the pine tree. -These cordials are more largely used in France and Italy than anywhere -else. Owing to a growing sentiment against their use, they -are tolerated to only a limited extent in America although, because -of their common use as flavorings, they are here mentioned.</p> - -<p>Vegetable acids are also largely used for the flavoring of foods.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</span> -One of the oldest known is verjuice, used by the ancients as a beverage. -Its use in cookery is believed to have originated in mediæval -France. It is made from the juice of crab-apples and of unripe -grapes.</p> - -<p>Vinegar is a developed acid. The word comes from the French -<i>vin-aigre</i>, meaning sour wine. If simple cane sugar be mixed with -water and some ferment, it will turn to grape sugar, then to alcohol, -then to vinegar. However, the best vinegar now used is a fruit acid, -either from apple or grape. It is also made from the red and white -wines and from sour beer, the latter being known as malt vinegar. -In England the law allows a percentage of sulphuric acid to be -added to malt vinegar while in America both sulphuric and muriatic -acids are considered adulterants. Vinegar is the one indispensable -ingredient of pickles and various sauces as well as a valuable -condiment.</p> - -<p>Limes and lemons, similar fruits, contain large quantities of -acid which is thoroughly wholesome and agreeable. To some extent -these acids are displacing vinegar as condiments, being considered -both more health giving and more palatable.</p> - -<p>The most complete and instructive exhibition of condiments -and spices ever given was held in the Agricultural Building during -the World’s Columbian Exposition. The nations of all the earth -contributed. There were capers and olives from Italy, spices from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</span> -Java, chutney from Trinidad, Calcutta, and the far away island of -Ceylon; ketchup from both England and America, cassareep and -pickled limes from British Guiana, soy from China and Japan, and -pickles from lands galore. The long, daintily curved, vanilla bean -was exhibited side by side with its short, fat, plebeian looking -adulterant, the tonka bean. Cordials were sent from every -country exhibiting. There was in one portion of the building a -small conservatory filled with growing spice plants, among them -pimento, ginger, clove, nutmeg, pepper, cassia and cinnamon.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp30" id="image043" style="max-width: 20em;"> - <img src="images/image043.jpg" alt="Bowl and flowers" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="INDEX">INDEX.</h2> -</div> - - -<div class="index"> - -<ul class="index"> -<li class="ifrst">Absinthe, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Almond, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Allspice, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Anchovy Paste, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Anise, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Anisette, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Basil, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Bay Leaves, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Black Pepper, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Candle-Nut, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Capers, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Capsicum, <i>vide</i> chili, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Carachi, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Caraway, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cardamon, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cassia, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cassareep, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Catsup, <i>vide</i> Ketchup</li> - -<li class="indx">Cayenne, <i>vide</i> Chili</li> - -<li class="indx">Celery, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chartreuse, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chervil, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chili, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Chutney, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cinnamon, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Clove, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Condiments, antiquity of, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">classification of, 3;</li> -<li class="isub1">digestive value of, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">exhibition of, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">mediæval use of, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a>.</li> - -<li class="indx">Coriander, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Cumin, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Curaçoa, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Curry, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Devonshire Sauce, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Dill, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Fennel, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</span></li> - -<li class="indx">Fenugreek, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Garlic, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Ginger, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Grains of Paradise, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Guinea Pepper, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Horse-Radish, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Ketchup, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Kümmel, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Leek, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lemon, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lime, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Lime-juice Sauce, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Long Pepper, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Mace, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Maraschino, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mint, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mixed Seasonings, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Mustard, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Noyau, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Nutmeg, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Olive, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Onion, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Parsley, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Penang Spices, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pepper, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pickles, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Pistache Nut, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Ratafia, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Safflower, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Saffron, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sage, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Salad Dressings, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Salt, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Samphire, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sauces, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Shallot, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Soy, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Star Anise, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Summer Savory, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Sweet Marjoram, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Tabasco Sauce, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tarragon, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Thyme, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Tonka-bean, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Turmeric, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Vanilla, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Verjuice, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Vinegar, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> - - -<li class="ifrst">Winter Savory, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> - -<li class="indx">Worcestershire Sauce, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> -</ul> -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CONDIMENTS, SPICES AND FLAVORS ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - 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