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-The Project Gutenberg eBook of Wayside Sketches in Tasmania, by S. H.
-Wintle
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
-will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
-using this eBook.
-
-Title: Wayside Sketches in Tasmania
-
-Author: S. H. Wintle
-
-Release Date: September 11, 2021 [eBook #66275]
-
-Language: English
-
-Produced by: Donald Cummings and the Online Distributed Proofreading
- Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from
- scans of public domain works at The National Library of
- Australia.)
-
-*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WAYSIDE SKETCHES IN
-TASMANIA ***
-
-
-
-
-
- WAYSIDE SKETCHES
- IN
- TASMANIA
-
- BY
- S. H. WINTLE.
-
-
- MELBOURNE:
- H. THOMAS, 80 CHANCERY LANE.
- 1880.
-
- AUTHOR’S RIGHTS RESERVED.
-
-
-
-
- NORTH-EASTERN TASMANIA.
-
- By S. H. Wintle.
-
-
- THE CORNERS.
-
-Notwithstanding that Tasmania is noted for the salubrity of its
-climate, and the magnificence of its scenery from one end of the
-island to the other, still there are localities which may claim the
-preference, perhaps, in the eyes of the visitor who is in search
-of health and the picturesque. There is no part of the beautiful
-island that offers the same attractions as the North East Coast in
-the neighborhood of George’s Bay, for here there is a combination of
-majestic grandeur with Arcadian beauty. To reach this favored locality,
-the traveller exchanges a seat in the railway car for one in a four
-wheeled conveyance at the Corners. It is very questionable if such
-another dreary, monotonous spot exists on the face of the earth as
-the Corners. Wherever the eye may wander, it meets with nothing but a
-dismal stretch of a sheep run, dotted with a few stunted, distorted
-trees, and the solitary, and still more dreary looking hotel rising
-out of the midst, while its proprietor, and those about him, have
-become hopelessly infected with the prevailing gruesome air of the
-detested spot. But this unromantic place is calculated to enhance the
-beauty of the scenes which await the visitor, and as he bowls along
-on a hematite gravelled road, as level as a billiard table, with good
-genial George Avery, the Jehu, he feels a sense of satisfaction as he
-sees the Corners fading away in the distance and the grand hills rising
-up before him. On either side of the road for some distance, he will
-see vestiges of the early days of the colony in the primitive fences
-of brushwood, and “dogleg.” In eight miles, Stoney Steps is reached
-where there is a hostelry kept by Herr Shmidt. Here the traveller for
-the first time since leaving the city, makes acquaintance with that
-most beautiful river, the picturesque South Esk. While the horses are
-being changed, he will have an opportunity of watching the falls at
-the rear of the Inn where the pellucid stream tumbles over a rugged
-barrier of basalt; and a little lower down observe how it spreads out
-into a dreamy, apparently motionless reach, reflecting the acacias,
-casuarina, and gums that thickly clothe its banks. Be the visitor an
-enthusiast in the icthyial pastime, not the least attractive feature
-of this stream in his eyes would be the fine brown trout with which
-it abounds. Fifteen miles further, through country consecrated to
-sheepdom, Avoca is reached. It is a small village or hamlet with one
-inn, two stores, and about a dozen cottages, but it is exceedingly
-picturesque, with the river St. Paul, meandering through it, and it is
-well calculated to awaken memories of what Ireland’s lyric bard wrote
-about the “Meeting of the Waters.” Those
-
-
- BLUE HILLS
-
-which the traveller saw after leaving the dismal Corners, stretching
-like a barrier in the dim distance, he is now fairly amongst. Grim,
-granite mountain heights, flanked and ribbed with the old world
-palæozoic slates and sandstones, that have been upheaved by the said
-granite from their originally horizontal position, into a nearly
-vertical one, rise on either hand before him. At the feet of those
-gracefully rounded heights, on the left hand, flows the South Esk, and
-now, and anon, the visitor will get glimpses of it through the trees
-that he is not likely to readily forget. He will observe that the
-material of the road is of a very different character to that he has
-been travelling over for some time past, since he took his seat in the
-coach. He will observe that it consists of waterworn pebbles of quartz
-and gravel. In a word, he is in an auriferous region, and that charming
-river that flows so peacefully at the feet of the high hills far
-below, is responsible for these pebbles. In the slates and sandstones
-on these hillsides, there are quartz veins and lodes containing gold
-more, or less, and these have been worn down ages ago, the result
-being that deep down in the old river bed the precious metal lies, but
-it is locked up, and the woolgrowers have the key. On the summits of
-those granite hills which are table-topped there is tin ore in small
-quantity. But we must not stay here too long to geologise, for we’ve
-many a league to traverse yet. Now are we fairly in Saintdom, for we
-have crossed St. Paul’s river, and two or three miles off the road to
-our right, rises St. Paul’s Dome――a conspicuously rounded lofty hill,
-while St. Mary’s, Mt. St. Nicholas and St. Patrick’s Head await us in
-the distance. Some of the earlier colonists who conferred these names,
-in most instances quite inappropriate, must have been deeply imbued
-with Saint Worship. The road now for many miles will skirt the ancient
-bed of the South Esk, which is perhaps the finest valley in the island;
-much of it is devoted to agriculture, but more of it to grazing.
-
-Towering far above all other hills proudly rises
-
-
- BEN LOMOND,
-
-the highest mountain but one in Tasmania, and the fountain head
-of several rivers. Here is another instance of topographical
-mis-nomenclature in Tasmania. If the truth were known, it probably, in
-no particular, resembles the Ben Lomond of Scotland. Its bold broken
-and rugged outline at once arrests the visitor’s attention. It, in this
-particular, presenting such striking contrast to the smoothly rounded
-hills in the neighborhood. This feature is due to the fact, that its
-summit consists of diorite, _i. e._ trap rock used as metal for the
-roads. The granite, as already stated, has burst through the stratified
-formations, and it in turn has been disrupted by the diorite which
-covers it with a capping, and this occurred during a far subsequent
-period known to geologists as the great Volcanic Epoch. Many, and
-diverse are the forms the outline of this mountain present as the
-traveller speeds along. At one time its southernmost part presents the
-appearance of a lion _couchant_. A mile or two further on, and this
-resemblance no longer exists, and is like anything the imagination of
-the spectator can supply. On the eastern escarpment, near the foot
-of the mountain there is coal, and also auriferous quartz lodes. The
-latter only is worked.
-
-When about half the distance to Fingal is accomplished, there is
-another short stoppage to change horses at a roadside stable, and a
-little further on the visitor sees an antiquated vestige of former days
-in the shape of a ruined dwelling. It is known as Grenbers Haunted
-House. Tradition has it, that a horrible murder was committed there in
-the early days of the colony, and no one will live in it on account of
-the nightly visitations of the ghost of the murdered man. Yonder lofty
-hill, with the peculiar cone-shaped rock-mass rising high from the
-centre of the summit, is Tower Hill, where gold mining in the quartz
-lodes is carried on with apparently not very satisfactory results.
-As the traveller proceeds along the smooth and winding road, he will
-observe that some of the cuttings have been made to a considerable
-depth through very rounded pebbles and boulders of quartz, and granite,
-interspersed occasionally with slate, sandstone, and greenstone, while
-bands of gravel are frequently interstratified. These are the ancient
-bed of the South Esk river, rolling now more than one hundred feet
-below, through the valley, and they tell him that many ages ago at
-this height that river flowed. These exposed terraces alternate with
-cuttings through the Silurian beds, exposing in vertical sections
-quartz veins, traversing the almost vertical, and very much contorted
-slates and sandstones. He has now reached “Tullochgorum,” the fine
-property of James Grant, Esq., where the neat villa is just discernible
-through the foliage of willows which surround it. In half an hour more
-he will enter the township of
-
-
- FINGAL.
-
-A quarter of a century ago this place was the scene of much stir and
-excitement, owing to it being the _locale_ where payable gold was
-first found in Tasmania. But the excitement was of comparatively brief
-duration. Much money was lost, and the place sank into unimportance.
-There are two large, substantial hotels, a bank, two or three stores, a
-jail, surrounded by a high brick wall, and a church which has remained
-unfinished for years. Immediately behind the township is an immense
-precipice several hundred feet high, as smooth on the face as a wall,
-and as vertical. This marks the line of a very extensive fault, which
-runs for many miles through the district to the East Coast. There
-is a stoppage here, long enough to enable travellers to partake of
-refreshment, post letters, or send telegrams. “All aboard” again, and
-in a very few minutes the coach is crossing the Break o’ Day rivulet
-on a very neat and substantial bridge, lately thrown across. Before
-him stretches the magnificent Break o’ Day valley, about 12 miles long
-and from 2 to 3 miles in breadth. It may be considered as an easterly
-extension of the South Esk valley. It is the cream of this part of the
-country, and is in the tight embrace of the octopus arms of two or
-three woolgrowers. According to tradition it was the haunt of one of
-the bands of bushrangers in the olden days, and many thrilling tales
-are told of the daring exploits of some of these desperadoes, as from
-the lofty heights on either side of the valley they could look down
-unperceived, and observe what was going on below. To the naturalist
-the stream that flows through the vale is of interest for the number
-and size of its freshwater mussels, (_unio_) their shining, nacreous
-shells strewing the banks――the work of the voracious cormorant. Here,
-and indeed for some miles back, at intervals along the valley of the
-South Esk he will hear a peculiar half cackling cry, and then perchance
-see an apparently wingless bird about the size and shape of a barn-door
-fowl, dart through the tall grass with the speed of the emu and make
-for the rushes and sedges which line the banks of the stream. This is
-the native hen. I have never heard of them being shot for the table,
-as an impression prevails that they are tough. The most striking
-feature about them is the remarkable speed they attain when running,
-for there are very few dogs that can catch them. The traveller is now
-passing through a district in which there is much that is geologically
-interesting and most paradoxical. High ranges shut in the valley on
-either hand. That, on the left hand with a huge precipice ascending
-from one side of a “saddle” is
-
-
- MOUNT ST. NICHOLAS,
-
-celebrated for a very thick seam of coal and three or four smaller ones
-which make their appearance on the side of the range 500 feet above the
-valley. The large seam is 16 feet in thickness, but the coal, although
-bituminous, is of a quality that renders it unfit for steam, or gas
-making purposes. For one or two inches of good bright coal, there are
-on the average from 12 to 15 inches of inferior earthy matter――in fine
-bituminized clay. On the opposite side of the valley this seam again
-appears at the same altitude at Mt. Legion 4 or 5 miles away, and
-again at the back of Fingal. There is a bullock dray road to the big
-seam, which is surrounded by some very romantic bits of scenery. For
-500 feet above the upper seam of coal, volcanic rock obtains, which on
-the summit of the hill rises in very fine columns, a characteristic of
-the greenstone of the same age in Tasmania. The beds of clay above and
-below the coal furnish very fine specimens of fossil ferns conspicuous
-among which, are the tongue-fern _Glossopteris_, the wedge-fern
-_Sphenopteris_, the nerve-fern _Neuropteris_ and the tooth-fern
-_Odontopteris_. All of which are long since extinct it is believed.
-
-That mansion just discernible through the poplar and other acclimatised
-trees on the right hand of the visitor, is Killymoon, the largest and
-most imposing structure in the district, and is the residence of S.
-Ransome, Esq. Its founder, the late Mr. Steiglitz, was evidently a man
-of good architectural taste, and in it one is strongly reminded of much
-that characterises the structures of medieval times. The freestone of
-which it is built was quarried close by, and is associated with the
-coal seams. It possesses the remarkable property of resisting, to a
-great degree, the action of fire, and in this respect much resembles
-itacolumite sandstone, which is employed for the floor of furnaces
-occasionally in Europe. When it is closely examined it is found to
-consist of small, well rounded grains of quartz, bound together by an
-argillo-siliceous cement.
-
-The visitor is now passing through Cullenswood, by which name this part
-of the Break o’ Day valley is known. A few cottages, and cultivated
-fields, with a church and its resting place for the dead, are its chief
-features. Two miles further on it merges into St. Mary’s. This village
-boasts one inn, one general store, and a smithy. The inn is situated
-on the brink of a clear, cool mountain stream which is never failing.
-St. Patrick’s Head, with its perfect pyramid form, rises grandly in
-front, while another conspicuous, though less aspiring hill, the Black
-Elephant, forms the eastern boundary of the vale. Horses are changed at
-the inn and soon the traveller is being hurled merrily along through
-an avenue of fine old wattle trees, whose branches meet over-head,
-and if it be Spring time the perfume from their golden blossoms
-is intoxicating. He must now be prepared to witness in a very few
-minutes, one of the grandest sights in natural scenery of the Southern
-hemisphere. There are few persons who have resided long enough in these
-colonies to become acclimatised that have not heard of
-
-
- ST. MARY’S PASS.
-
-It is a proverb, “See Venice and die,” I would say, See St. Mary’s
-Pass, and _live_ to describe it if you can (for it will sorely tax your
-descriptive powers, be they ever so good) to your friends. It alone
-is worth travelling a thousand miles to behold where expense is not a
-consideration.
-
-From the time the last inn was left, the road gradually ascends a
-gentle acclivity, and when the top is gained the visitor is at the
-entrance of the Pass. An abrupt turn of the road, and lo! opening
-far beneath him on his left hand, is a yawning gulf, with almost
-perpendicular mountains ascending on both sides. From this point it is
-_facilis descensus_. As he looks down the awful chasm from the narrow
-rock-hewn road, he involuntary recoils with a shudder. Genial George
-observes this, for he was prepared for it, and a suppressed smile,
-with a humorous twinkle in his eye records it. Whatever exclamation of
-surprise, fear, or appreciation of the sublime grandeur of the scene,
-may escape the lips of the traveller, it is drowned with a crack of the
-whip and “Come, get along there, lazy bones” as the vehicle rattles
-over the adamantine, tortuous road, leaving barely room for a foot
-passenger to pass between it and the verge of the gorge; for there is
-no fence, except at very sharp turns of the road. Down――down――down,
-sweeps the terrible gulf. Higher――higher――higher, ascend the
-tree-crowned heights, and looking from the road, the traveller feels
-it would be possible to shoot a bird on the opposite side. There is
-not a foot of ground but what is densely covered with timber and
-undergrowth. Far below, in the cool mossy depths can be seen the ever
-beautiful plume-fronded fern trees, waving in graceful undulations with
-the breeze, born of the great chasm; their tender green, contrasting
-favorably with the darker, harder hue of the surrounding gum trees.
-High over the tops of patriarchal forest giants, the eye sweeps
-the great abyss and through the ambient air, can distinctly see the
-mosses of green and gold draping the rocks and trees in the depths of
-those sunless shades. It may be Spring time, and if so the blossom of
-a wattle tree here and there, stands out in strong relief among the
-myrtles and sassafras, scenting the air with its rich perfume. Another
-turn of the Pass, and there is a stone trough at which man and horse
-may drink of water as pellucid and cool as the pendant dew-drops. A
-mountain rill, which is almost vertical, comes leaping down in tiny
-falls, and is then conducted by a little flume into the stone trough.
-At one time the pass appears to have turned back on itself――at another
-it is taking a course at right angles――so numerous and acute are its
-windings as it rounds the heads of the many gullies. Considering that
-the pace at which the coach is being driven, which is very little,
-if indeed, anything less than that before the Pass was reached,
-apprehension of danger in the coolest and most courageous spirits is
-excusable, but the horses as well as driver know their work so well
-that a mishap is of very rare occurrence while a fatal accident as far
-as I know, has never yet been chronicled. St. Patrick’s Head which
-the visitor saw from St. Mary’s rising into the upper air, like a
-mighty pyramid he is now careering along. A little over two miles of
-the descent is accomplished, when another sharp turn unfolds to view
-the boundless ocean rolling in long lines of foaming, curling, surges
-on the shore――the hollow booming roar of which, is, and has been for
-some time past distinctly audible. That little hamlet consisting of
-one weather-boarded inn, and barely half a dozen primitive cottages
-is Falmouth. The inn which stands on a small headland overlooking the
-surf-beaten shore, is as solitary-looking as a light-house. Down,
-and still down, with its apparently endless windings, goes the Pass.
-Deeper and still deeper seems to grow the mighty gorge. On one hand
-is a high wall of rock, produced by forming the road. It is compact
-greenstone, _i.e._ trap rock, and testifies to the vast amount of
-labor and engineering skill in constructing the Pass in days long
-past. High overhead the mountain soars, and huge masses of rock are
-impending like Damocles sword, and seem ready to come thundering down
-on the slightest provocation, carrying destruction and death in their
-course. This threatening aspect have they presented for untold ages,
-and for untold ages it they may maintain. Much room for marvel there
-is as to how the trees continue to grow and hold their own on such
-steep mountain slopes, looking much like Natural Selection at fault.
-But then gumtrees in Tasmania will grow anywhere. Here, and there,
-the gracefully formed, and tender green foliaged _Exocarpus_ (native
-cherry tree), and the lightwood tree fringe the edges of the Pass. For
-eight miles the traveller winds along this remarkable chasm and then
-finds himself on the sandy plateau of Falmouth at the bottom, with
-the heaving ocean in front, and a large sheet of imprisoned seawater
-on his left hand, into which the collected waters of the gorge empty
-themselves. That large and commanding brick house standing by itself is
-the residence of Mr. Steele, who owns all the available land for dairy
-farming in the locality. Horses are changed at the inn where dinner
-can be had and then a start is made to cross the Styx, but genial
-George, in this case, is old _Charon_. From Saintdom we have entered
-the regions of classical history, and instead of being rowed over the
-Styx we go through it on wheels. Somewhat exciting is the transit, the
-horses belly deep, and the traveller has to lift his feet till his
-knees are level with his nose, while the wheels of the coach stir up
-the black mud which emits the antithesis of an agreeable odor. This
-continues for about a mile. The road now runs along the sea shore, and
-is separated from the surf-beaten beach by sand dunes, covered with
-stunted vegetation, chiefly boobyalla. There are 16 miles of sand road
-between Falmouth and George’s Bay to which latter place I will assume
-the visitor is going. It is one of the most trying roads to horses in
-the island. Flat, swampy land, stretches for nearly two thirds of the
-distance. Where swamps do not obtain, a profusion of gay blossoming
-heath, chiefly _epacridae_, and the elegant and sand loving grass tree
-clothe the ground. After crossing the Styx, and having proceeded a
-mile, the picturesque Scamander river is reached. It is spanned by a
-very neat and substantial bridge lately built. The old bridge in ruins
-is seen a short distance on the right. If the traveller be a classical
-man, he will find the topographical nomenclature of this region awaken
-associations of his _Alma Mater_. I do not know whether the old-world
-Scamander was distinguished for good fishing, but I do know that this
-one offers splendid attractions to the lovers of the rod and line. The
-water is half salt and half fresh, being separated from the sea by a
-sand bar. During rough weather, the waves break over this bar and when
-there is a fresh in the river the reverse action takes place. The water
-is always beautifully clear, and large bream, and perch can be seen,
-in untold numbers, swimming about among the seaweed. But they are often
-very shy of the bait, owing, it is supposed to there being an abundance
-of their natural food.
-
-To the naturalist the long beach offers great attractions. Close to
-the sandbar of the Styx there are numerous rock pools where anemonies,
-chitons, a large variety of _Radiata_, and choice algae abound. Add
-to these, a profusion of sponge and litoral shellfishes. Dead shells
-strew the beach in myriads, and it is owing to this feature that many
-families make Falmouth a place of resort during the summer season. Five
-or six miles from Falmouth
-
-
- THE LAGOON
-
-is reached. This is a picturesque sheet of imprisoned sea water into
-which two or three streams disembogue. This lagoon is a favorite haunt
-of that strange bird the Musk Duck which on the near approach of man
-darts along the surface of the water with great speed, by using their
-rudimentary wings as paddles, with which they beat the water into foam,
-uttering at the same time a peculiarly discordant cry. The great dunes
-of blown sea sand shut out the ocean from view for a great part of the
-distance to George’s Bay, but the deafening roar of the surf is an
-accompaniment all the way. At Freshwater Creek, where a stream flows
-through a compact reticulation of rushes, sedges, and ferns, horses are
-changed. We are now half way to the township of St. Helens. Densely
-timbered heights on the one hand, the ocean on the other, and a gay
-blossoming heath-covered _parterre_ intervening. A mile or two further
-on, and the sand dunes lose much of their height and consequently
-glimpses of the ocean are obtained. Yonder island, rising some five
-miles off, is Marouard Island, by some called Rabbit Island, owing
-to the large number of rabbits it contains. It is granite, and what
-in geology is known as an “outlier.” How the rabbits manage to find
-a living upon it is matter for marvel, for it has all the appearance
-of a barren rock. Coasting crafts avail themselves of it for shelter
-in rough weather. It affords but a poor haven at best, but there is
-no other between Falmouth and George’s Bay. The small islet nearer
-the shore is Paddy’s Island. Both, in days gone by were the resort
-of seals. The road now passes through some fenced-in land, and after
-crossing a streamlet and a gentle eminence where until very lately
-before the new road was made it was the custom of the driver of the
-coach to call out, “Now gentlemen” which being interpreted signified
-the passengers getting out and walking up the hill to relieve the jaded
-horses. This custom has departed now. Upon descending the opposite side
-the visitor finds himself face to face with one of the most charming
-saltwater lakes in the world. It is
-
-
- DIANA’S BASIN
-
-and one can well conceive the fair and fleet goddess selecting such a
-spot to bathe her limbs. Yonder dwelling, partly visible through the
-trees, which flourish to the water’s edge, is the Summer retreat of F.
-Groome, Esq. of “Harefield” at St. Mary’s. This lake is like the others
-which we have passed――an inlet of the sea enclosed by a large and high
-sandbank. Wild ducks, teal, and the never-absent cormorant, haunt it
-in vast numbers, for it abounds in fish. Here for the first time since
-leaving the eastern extremity of the pass we come upon granite the
-prevailing rock of the stanniferous district we are about to enter.
-A very interesting and instructive tale of cosmical change does this
-same granite tell, but time and circumstance alike forbid us staying
-to listen to it now. It will have been observed that there is a most
-decided change in the character of the vegetation in these parts. The
-gum trees no longer have the white, smooth bark which mark them a few
-miles to the south-east. Instead of this the bark is rough, thick, and
-deeply furrowed. They are the iron bark, or redgum of the colonists,
-an exceedingly hard, and durable wood and it is much prized for sluice
-boxes by the tin miner. Five miles more, and as the sun is setting over
-the blue and distant mountains in the west――an abrupt turn of the road
-occurs, and lo! the truly magnificent
-
-
- GEORGE’S BAY
-
-opens to the view, with its numerous points, promontories, inlets and
-emerald flats. It is justly considered to be the most picturesque bay
-in the colony, and as a fishing ground is second to none. All the year
-round fine flounders can be had while crayfish are a drug. There are
-some very fine oyster beds which yield largely of these molluscs. The
-township of St. Helens consists of about twenty houses. There are three
-hotels which is just two too many. The Telegraph hotel is considered
-the principal one. There is a Bank, Post Office, and Telegraph Office
-in one neat building. A Police Office and Commissioner of Mines
-combined. There are two general stores. The climate of George’s Bay is
-unquestionably the finest in Tasmania. It is warmer than the Capital
-and not subject to such sudden transitions of temperature. There are
-very keen frosts in Winter, and also occasional frosts in Summer, but
-the sun beams out with resplendent glory through soft blue skies,
-flecked with fleecy clouds, after them. St. Helens is approached
-through Jason’s Gates, spanned by a bridge at the mouth of the Golden
-Fleece, an estuary which an artist would love to transfer to canvas.
-Here the names again carry the memory back to the beautiful poetical
-legend of the ancients. The traveller is now in the region of tin
-mines. Try where he may, in the sands of the sea shore, the gravel
-of the roads, he will obtain tin ore, but it exists only in payable
-quantity from three to six miles from the coast.
-
-There is a fine river the George, rich in sylvan scenery, and teeming
-with fish. The chief features of the district are the hills of granite,
-with their smooth rounded crests. These swell up in all directions,
-giving the country a highly undulating appearance. There are some very
-rare scene studies for the artist in the ravines. The LEDA FALLS on the
-Saxleby tin claim is one of these. The stream is divided into two falls
-at the edge of a granite precipice in a deep rock-bound gorge.
-
-Within one mile of the Falls is a singular “weathered” granite mass
-which I have named Truganini’s Throne. These spots and several others
-in the neighborhood are well worth a visit, I may be excused for
-quoting here a description of these two scenes which I lately published
-in the _Australasian Sketcher_.
-
-
- LEDA FALLS.
-
-These Falls are situated on the Saxleby tin claim, seven miles from
-George’s Bay, and in the centre of the tin mining district. A stream
-which takes its rise in the high granite hills of the district after
-flowing through button-grass marshes, and dense thickets of banera,
-cutting-grass and ti-tree, suddenly plunges down a deep romantic rocky
-gorge. Here it is broken into numerous miniature falls――now eddying
-round the walls of a granite basin which it has carved out through
-untold ages, and anon babbling among the moss-covered stones which
-interrupt its course, till when halfway through the gorge it leaps
-over a deep vertical precipice with deafening roar. At the verge of
-this precipice the stream is intercepted by a projection of rock which
-divides it and causes it to fall in two streams into a depression of
-the granite. At the sides of the ravine, huge overhanging masses of
-worn granite――some of them thousands of tons in weight, give rise
-to numerous recesses of sepulchral gloom. Over their portals hang
-festoons of delicate climbing plants and feathery-fronded ferns grow in
-profusion, gum-trees, acacia, dogwood and others whose branches meeting
-overhead form a canopy which excludes the noontide sunshine. If I might
-venture to call to aid metrical composition I would describe it thus:――
-
- Forth from its secret mountain source it flows
- Through em’rald swamps and tangled ti-tree dells;
- Now making music soft ’mong granite stones,
- O’er-mantled with bright moss of green and gold;
- Now stealing dreamlike, through deep sunless shades,
- Where never ripple ruffled its cool breast.
- Thus flowing sea-ward in its chequered course
- Till where a deep dark chasm twixt two hills
- All unexpected opens to the view.
- There at the verge divided into twain
- It plunges down into the gloom profound
- Where noise and mist and wild confusion reign.
-
-
- TRUGANINI’S THRONE
-
-is distant about one mile from Leda Falls on the western bank of the
-same stream. It is a remarkable example of weathered granite about 40
-feet high. Large gum-trees grow out of the joints of the rock 70 to 80
-feet in height. This is also well worth a visit from the tourist.
-
-
- THE TIN MINES.
-
-The vallies intervening the granite hills are the scenes of the
-operations of the miners. These vallies are chiefly occupied by
-button-grass marshes through which creeks and smaller streamlets
-flow and which take their rise in the higher mountain ranges in the
-interior. This button-grass which may not be widely well-known grows
-in tussocks from one foot to three feet in height and detached. Its
-leaves are long and wiry, and its seed-vessels consist of spherical,
-hard rough knobs about the size of marbles, closely resembling the old
-brass buttons of that form, from which it derives its name. These knobs
-are supported upon long smooth wiry stems often four and five feet in
-length. In passing through one of these marshes these knobs frequently
-spring back with considerable force, and owing to their hard rough
-nature, and the flexibility of the stems are capable of inflicting
-pain on the exposed face and hands. The creeks running through these
-valleys are fringed with belts of dense ti-tree among which is the
-flowering _melaleuca_ of the botanist, _banera_, or the river-rose
-and tall cutting-grass oftentimes so thickly interlaced as to form an
-almost impenetrable barrier. The soil on the hill-slopes is usually
-poor and gravelly formed by the decomposition of the coarse porphyritic
-granite of the district and yet it is thickly clothed with ironbark
-gums, peppermint gums, prickly acacia and those arboraeolian harps the
-sombre-hued Casuarina, on which, to indulge a figurative expression
-the zephyrs love to play with viewless fingers. The tin ore, for the
-most part is obtained at a depth from the surface of the vallies of
-from four to six feet, in a pebbly drift occupying the depressions of
-the granite which is usually decomposed so as to present a soft clayey
-consistency. It would seem to be what is known as “erratic”――that is
-it has come from a distance as the pebbles with which it is associated
-have been supplied by rocks which are not to be met with in the
-locality.
-
-At 10 miles inland to the west is the Land of Goschen, a flat well
-grassed plateau on the banks of the George river, with a mountain
-rising out of the midst. Four miles further on Gould’s Country is
-reached, with its lofty mountain ranges of granite and deep gullies,
-densely covered with myrtle, sassafras, and tree ferns. Here are
-situated the principal tin mines of the East Coast.
-
-Profoundly grand are the gullies of this region as the road winds along
-the mountain heights. Now on the right hand, now on the left the sides
-of the mountains sweep down into apparently bottomless ravines. High
-above the tops of trees over 300 feet in height in many instances the
-eye of the traveller sweeps the terrible chasms so thickly covered with
-tree-ferns and other shade and moisture-loving vegetation as to be
-sunshine proof. The scene of St. Mary’s Pass is a combination of the
-grand and picturesque. That of Gould’s Country is the awfully grand
-alone. Here there is a slab some miles in length traversing the sides
-of the mountains. There are two inns, several stores, and cottage
-dwellings. Sixteen miles further to the West is Thomas Plain on which
-stands the township of Weldborough surrounded for many miles by tin
-mines. This is reached by a narrow pack-track from Gould Country which
-is knee-deep in mud except in the very height of Summer. All the tin
-ore raised here has to be packed out on horses to Gould’s Country and
-Morina and owing to the continual traffic of the heavily-laden horses
-and the exclusion of wind and sunshine by the dense vegetation the
-track is a very “Slough of Despond.”
-
-Thomas Plain is situated in the centre of the Ringarooma district and
-enclosed by an amphitheatre of lofty tree-crowned heights. Several
-cool pellucid never failing streams flow through it. It is the most
-picturesque in Tasmania.
-
-Such are the salient features of the North East Coast of Tasmania,
-and I believe the visitor in search of a salubrious clime and choice
-scenery will allow that these fully repay the journey.
-
-
- * * * * *
-
-
-Transcriber’s Notes:
-
-――Text in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_).
-
-――Obvious punctuation and spelling inaccuracies were silently corrected.
-
-――Archaic and variable spelling has been preserved.
-
-――Variations in hyphenation and compound words have been preserved.
-
-*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WAYSIDE SKETCHES IN
-TASMANIA ***
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