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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..91fa760 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #66275 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/66275) diff --git a/old/66275-0.txt b/old/66275-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index ddd88f0..0000000 --- a/old/66275-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,969 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Wayside Sketches in Tasmania, by S. H. -Wintle - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Wayside Sketches in Tasmania - -Author: S. H. Wintle - -Release Date: September 11, 2021 [eBook #66275] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Donald Cummings and the Online Distributed Proofreading - Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from - scans of public domain works at The National Library of - Australia.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WAYSIDE SKETCHES IN -TASMANIA *** - - - - - - WAYSIDE SKETCHES - IN - TASMANIA - - BY - S. H. WINTLE. - - - MELBOURNE: - H. THOMAS, 80 CHANCERY LANE. - 1880. - - AUTHOR’S RIGHTS RESERVED. - - - - - NORTH-EASTERN TASMANIA. - - By S. H. Wintle. - - - THE CORNERS. - -Notwithstanding that Tasmania is noted for the salubrity of its -climate, and the magnificence of its scenery from one end of the -island to the other, still there are localities which may claim the -preference, perhaps, in the eyes of the visitor who is in search -of health and the picturesque. There is no part of the beautiful -island that offers the same attractions as the North East Coast in -the neighborhood of George’s Bay, for here there is a combination of -majestic grandeur with Arcadian beauty. To reach this favored locality, -the traveller exchanges a seat in the railway car for one in a four -wheeled conveyance at the Corners. It is very questionable if such -another dreary, monotonous spot exists on the face of the earth as -the Corners. Wherever the eye may wander, it meets with nothing but a -dismal stretch of a sheep run, dotted with a few stunted, distorted -trees, and the solitary, and still more dreary looking hotel rising -out of the midst, while its proprietor, and those about him, have -become hopelessly infected with the prevailing gruesome air of the -detested spot. But this unromantic place is calculated to enhance the -beauty of the scenes which await the visitor, and as he bowls along -on a hematite gravelled road, as level as a billiard table, with good -genial George Avery, the Jehu, he feels a sense of satisfaction as he -sees the Corners fading away in the distance and the grand hills rising -up before him. On either side of the road for some distance, he will -see vestiges of the early days of the colony in the primitive fences -of brushwood, and “dogleg.” In eight miles, Stoney Steps is reached -where there is a hostelry kept by Herr Shmidt. Here the traveller for -the first time since leaving the city, makes acquaintance with that -most beautiful river, the picturesque South Esk. While the horses are -being changed, he will have an opportunity of watching the falls at -the rear of the Inn where the pellucid stream tumbles over a rugged -barrier of basalt; and a little lower down observe how it spreads out -into a dreamy, apparently motionless reach, reflecting the acacias, -casuarina, and gums that thickly clothe its banks. Be the visitor an -enthusiast in the icthyial pastime, not the least attractive feature -of this stream in his eyes would be the fine brown trout with which -it abounds. Fifteen miles further, through country consecrated to -sheepdom, Avoca is reached. It is a small village or hamlet with one -inn, two stores, and about a dozen cottages, but it is exceedingly -picturesque, with the river St. Paul, meandering through it, and it is -well calculated to awaken memories of what Ireland’s lyric bard wrote -about the “Meeting of the Waters.” Those - - - BLUE HILLS - -which the traveller saw after leaving the dismal Corners, stretching -like a barrier in the dim distance, he is now fairly amongst. Grim, -granite mountain heights, flanked and ribbed with the old world -palæozoic slates and sandstones, that have been upheaved by the said -granite from their originally horizontal position, into a nearly -vertical one, rise on either hand before him. At the feet of those -gracefully rounded heights, on the left hand, flows the South Esk, and -now, and anon, the visitor will get glimpses of it through the trees -that he is not likely to readily forget. He will observe that the -material of the road is of a very different character to that he has -been travelling over for some time past, since he took his seat in the -coach. He will observe that it consists of waterworn pebbles of quartz -and gravel. In a word, he is in an auriferous region, and that charming -river that flows so peacefully at the feet of the high hills far -below, is responsible for these pebbles. In the slates and sandstones -on these hillsides, there are quartz veins and lodes containing gold -more, or less, and these have been worn down ages ago, the result -being that deep down in the old river bed the precious metal lies, but -it is locked up, and the woolgrowers have the key. On the summits of -those granite hills which are table-topped there is tin ore in small -quantity. But we must not stay here too long to geologise, for we’ve -many a league to traverse yet. Now are we fairly in Saintdom, for we -have crossed St. Paul’s river, and two or three miles off the road to -our right, rises St. Paul’s Dome――a conspicuously rounded lofty hill, -while St. Mary’s, Mt. St. Nicholas and St. Patrick’s Head await us in -the distance. Some of the earlier colonists who conferred these names, -in most instances quite inappropriate, must have been deeply imbued -with Saint Worship. The road now for many miles will skirt the ancient -bed of the South Esk, which is perhaps the finest valley in the island; -much of it is devoted to agriculture, but more of it to grazing. - -Towering far above all other hills proudly rises - - - BEN LOMOND, - -the highest mountain but one in Tasmania, and the fountain head -of several rivers. Here is another instance of topographical -mis-nomenclature in Tasmania. If the truth were known, it probably, in -no particular, resembles the Ben Lomond of Scotland. Its bold broken -and rugged outline at once arrests the visitor’s attention. It, in this -particular, presenting such striking contrast to the smoothly rounded -hills in the neighborhood. This feature is due to the fact, that its -summit consists of diorite, _i. e._ trap rock used as metal for the -roads. The granite, as already stated, has burst through the stratified -formations, and it in turn has been disrupted by the diorite which -covers it with a capping, and this occurred during a far subsequent -period known to geologists as the great Volcanic Epoch. Many, and -diverse are the forms the outline of this mountain present as the -traveller speeds along. At one time its southernmost part presents the -appearance of a lion _couchant_. A mile or two further on, and this -resemblance no longer exists, and is like anything the imagination of -the spectator can supply. On the eastern escarpment, near the foot -of the mountain there is coal, and also auriferous quartz lodes. The -latter only is worked. - -When about half the distance to Fingal is accomplished, there is -another short stoppage to change horses at a roadside stable, and a -little further on the visitor sees an antiquated vestige of former days -in the shape of a ruined dwelling. It is known as Grenbers Haunted -House. Tradition has it, that a horrible murder was committed there in -the early days of the colony, and no one will live in it on account of -the nightly visitations of the ghost of the murdered man. Yonder lofty -hill, with the peculiar cone-shaped rock-mass rising high from the -centre of the summit, is Tower Hill, where gold mining in the quartz -lodes is carried on with apparently not very satisfactory results. -As the traveller proceeds along the smooth and winding road, he will -observe that some of the cuttings have been made to a considerable -depth through very rounded pebbles and boulders of quartz, and granite, -interspersed occasionally with slate, sandstone, and greenstone, while -bands of gravel are frequently interstratified. These are the ancient -bed of the South Esk river, rolling now more than one hundred feet -below, through the valley, and they tell him that many ages ago at -this height that river flowed. These exposed terraces alternate with -cuttings through the Silurian beds, exposing in vertical sections -quartz veins, traversing the almost vertical, and very much contorted -slates and sandstones. He has now reached “Tullochgorum,” the fine -property of James Grant, Esq., where the neat villa is just discernible -through the foliage of willows which surround it. In half an hour more -he will enter the township of - - - FINGAL. - -A quarter of a century ago this place was the scene of much stir and -excitement, owing to it being the _locale_ where payable gold was -first found in Tasmania. But the excitement was of comparatively brief -duration. Much money was lost, and the place sank into unimportance. -There are two large, substantial hotels, a bank, two or three stores, a -jail, surrounded by a high brick wall, and a church which has remained -unfinished for years. Immediately behind the township is an immense -precipice several hundred feet high, as smooth on the face as a wall, -and as vertical. This marks the line of a very extensive fault, which -runs for many miles through the district to the East Coast. There -is a stoppage here, long enough to enable travellers to partake of -refreshment, post letters, or send telegrams. “All aboard” again, and -in a very few minutes the coach is crossing the Break o’ Day rivulet -on a very neat and substantial bridge, lately thrown across. Before -him stretches the magnificent Break o’ Day valley, about 12 miles long -and from 2 to 3 miles in breadth. It may be considered as an easterly -extension of the South Esk valley. It is the cream of this part of the -country, and is in the tight embrace of the octopus arms of two or -three woolgrowers. According to tradition it was the haunt of one of -the bands of bushrangers in the olden days, and many thrilling tales -are told of the daring exploits of some of these desperadoes, as from -the lofty heights on either side of the valley they could look down -unperceived, and observe what was going on below. To the naturalist -the stream that flows through the vale is of interest for the number -and size of its freshwater mussels, (_unio_) their shining, nacreous -shells strewing the banks――the work of the voracious cormorant. Here, -and indeed for some miles back, at intervals along the valley of the -South Esk he will hear a peculiar half cackling cry, and then perchance -see an apparently wingless bird about the size and shape of a barn-door -fowl, dart through the tall grass with the speed of the emu and make -for the rushes and sedges which line the banks of the stream. This is -the native hen. I have never heard of them being shot for the table, -as an impression prevails that they are tough. The most striking -feature about them is the remarkable speed they attain when running, -for there are very few dogs that can catch them. The traveller is now -passing through a district in which there is much that is geologically -interesting and most paradoxical. High ranges shut in the valley on -either hand. That, on the left hand with a huge precipice ascending -from one side of a “saddle” is - - - MOUNT ST. NICHOLAS, - -celebrated for a very thick seam of coal and three or four smaller ones -which make their appearance on the side of the range 500 feet above the -valley. The large seam is 16 feet in thickness, but the coal, although -bituminous, is of a quality that renders it unfit for steam, or gas -making purposes. For one or two inches of good bright coal, there are -on the average from 12 to 15 inches of inferior earthy matter――in fine -bituminized clay. On the opposite side of the valley this seam again -appears at the same altitude at Mt. Legion 4 or 5 miles away, and -again at the back of Fingal. There is a bullock dray road to the big -seam, which is surrounded by some very romantic bits of scenery. For -500 feet above the upper seam of coal, volcanic rock obtains, which on -the summit of the hill rises in very fine columns, a characteristic of -the greenstone of the same age in Tasmania. The beds of clay above and -below the coal furnish very fine specimens of fossil ferns conspicuous -among which, are the tongue-fern _Glossopteris_, the wedge-fern -_Sphenopteris_, the nerve-fern _Neuropteris_ and the tooth-fern -_Odontopteris_. All of which are long since extinct it is believed. - -That mansion just discernible through the poplar and other acclimatised -trees on the right hand of the visitor, is Killymoon, the largest and -most imposing structure in the district, and is the residence of S. -Ransome, Esq. Its founder, the late Mr. Steiglitz, was evidently a man -of good architectural taste, and in it one is strongly reminded of much -that characterises the structures of medieval times. The freestone of -which it is built was quarried close by, and is associated with the -coal seams. It possesses the remarkable property of resisting, to a -great degree, the action of fire, and in this respect much resembles -itacolumite sandstone, which is employed for the floor of furnaces -occasionally in Europe. When it is closely examined it is found to -consist of small, well rounded grains of quartz, bound together by an -argillo-siliceous cement. - -The visitor is now passing through Cullenswood, by which name this part -of the Break o’ Day valley is known. A few cottages, and cultivated -fields, with a church and its resting place for the dead, are its chief -features. Two miles further on it merges into St. Mary’s. This village -boasts one inn, one general store, and a smithy. The inn is situated -on the brink of a clear, cool mountain stream which is never failing. -St. Patrick’s Head, with its perfect pyramid form, rises grandly in -front, while another conspicuous, though less aspiring hill, the Black -Elephant, forms the eastern boundary of the vale. Horses are changed at -the inn and soon the traveller is being hurled merrily along through -an avenue of fine old wattle trees, whose branches meet over-head, -and if it be Spring time the perfume from their golden blossoms -is intoxicating. He must now be prepared to witness in a very few -minutes, one of the grandest sights in natural scenery of the Southern -hemisphere. There are few persons who have resided long enough in these -colonies to become acclimatised that have not heard of - - - ST. MARY’S PASS. - -It is a proverb, “See Venice and die,” I would say, See St. Mary’s -Pass, and _live_ to describe it if you can (for it will sorely tax your -descriptive powers, be they ever so good) to your friends. It alone -is worth travelling a thousand miles to behold where expense is not a -consideration. - -From the time the last inn was left, the road gradually ascends a -gentle acclivity, and when the top is gained the visitor is at the -entrance of the Pass. An abrupt turn of the road, and lo! opening -far beneath him on his left hand, is a yawning gulf, with almost -perpendicular mountains ascending on both sides. From this point it is -_facilis descensus_. As he looks down the awful chasm from the narrow -rock-hewn road, he involuntary recoils with a shudder. Genial George -observes this, for he was prepared for it, and a suppressed smile, -with a humorous twinkle in his eye records it. Whatever exclamation of -surprise, fear, or appreciation of the sublime grandeur of the scene, -may escape the lips of the traveller, it is drowned with a crack of the -whip and “Come, get along there, lazy bones” as the vehicle rattles -over the adamantine, tortuous road, leaving barely room for a foot -passenger to pass between it and the verge of the gorge; for there is -no fence, except at very sharp turns of the road. Down――down――down, -sweeps the terrible gulf. Higher――higher――higher, ascend the -tree-crowned heights, and looking from the road, the traveller feels -it would be possible to shoot a bird on the opposite side. There is -not a foot of ground but what is densely covered with timber and -undergrowth. Far below, in the cool mossy depths can be seen the ever -beautiful plume-fronded fern trees, waving in graceful undulations with -the breeze, born of the great chasm; their tender green, contrasting -favorably with the darker, harder hue of the surrounding gum trees. -High over the tops of patriarchal forest giants, the eye sweeps -the great abyss and through the ambient air, can distinctly see the -mosses of green and gold draping the rocks and trees in the depths of -those sunless shades. It may be Spring time, and if so the blossom of -a wattle tree here and there, stands out in strong relief among the -myrtles and sassafras, scenting the air with its rich perfume. Another -turn of the Pass, and there is a stone trough at which man and horse -may drink of water as pellucid and cool as the pendant dew-drops. A -mountain rill, which is almost vertical, comes leaping down in tiny -falls, and is then conducted by a little flume into the stone trough. -At one time the pass appears to have turned back on itself――at another -it is taking a course at right angles――so numerous and acute are its -windings as it rounds the heads of the many gullies. Considering that -the pace at which the coach is being driven, which is very little, -if indeed, anything less than that before the Pass was reached, -apprehension of danger in the coolest and most courageous spirits is -excusable, but the horses as well as driver know their work so well -that a mishap is of very rare occurrence while a fatal accident as far -as I know, has never yet been chronicled. St. Patrick’s Head which -the visitor saw from St. Mary’s rising into the upper air, like a -mighty pyramid he is now careering along. A little over two miles of -the descent is accomplished, when another sharp turn unfolds to view -the boundless ocean rolling in long lines of foaming, curling, surges -on the shore――the hollow booming roar of which, is, and has been for -some time past distinctly audible. That little hamlet consisting of -one weather-boarded inn, and barely half a dozen primitive cottages -is Falmouth. The inn which stands on a small headland overlooking the -surf-beaten shore, is as solitary-looking as a light-house. Down, -and still down, with its apparently endless windings, goes the Pass. -Deeper and still deeper seems to grow the mighty gorge. On one hand -is a high wall of rock, produced by forming the road. It is compact -greenstone, _i.e._ trap rock, and testifies to the vast amount of -labor and engineering skill in constructing the Pass in days long -past. High overhead the mountain soars, and huge masses of rock are -impending like Damocles sword, and seem ready to come thundering down -on the slightest provocation, carrying destruction and death in their -course. This threatening aspect have they presented for untold ages, -and for untold ages it they may maintain. Much room for marvel there -is as to how the trees continue to grow and hold their own on such -steep mountain slopes, looking much like Natural Selection at fault. -But then gumtrees in Tasmania will grow anywhere. Here, and there, -the gracefully formed, and tender green foliaged _Exocarpus_ (native -cherry tree), and the lightwood tree fringe the edges of the Pass. For -eight miles the traveller winds along this remarkable chasm and then -finds himself on the sandy plateau of Falmouth at the bottom, with -the heaving ocean in front, and a large sheet of imprisoned seawater -on his left hand, into which the collected waters of the gorge empty -themselves. That large and commanding brick house standing by itself is -the residence of Mr. Steele, who owns all the available land for dairy -farming in the locality. Horses are changed at the inn where dinner -can be had and then a start is made to cross the Styx, but genial -George, in this case, is old _Charon_. From Saintdom we have entered -the regions of classical history, and instead of being rowed over the -Styx we go through it on wheels. Somewhat exciting is the transit, the -horses belly deep, and the traveller has to lift his feet till his -knees are level with his nose, while the wheels of the coach stir up -the black mud which emits the antithesis of an agreeable odor. This -continues for about a mile. The road now runs along the sea shore, and -is separated from the surf-beaten beach by sand dunes, covered with -stunted vegetation, chiefly boobyalla. There are 16 miles of sand road -between Falmouth and George’s Bay to which latter place I will assume -the visitor is going. It is one of the most trying roads to horses in -the island. Flat, swampy land, stretches for nearly two thirds of the -distance. Where swamps do not obtain, a profusion of gay blossoming -heath, chiefly _epacridae_, and the elegant and sand loving grass tree -clothe the ground. After crossing the Styx, and having proceeded a -mile, the picturesque Scamander river is reached. It is spanned by a -very neat and substantial bridge lately built. The old bridge in ruins -is seen a short distance on the right. If the traveller be a classical -man, he will find the topographical nomenclature of this region awaken -associations of his _Alma Mater_. I do not know whether the old-world -Scamander was distinguished for good fishing, but I do know that this -one offers splendid attractions to the lovers of the rod and line. The -water is half salt and half fresh, being separated from the sea by a -sand bar. During rough weather, the waves break over this bar and when -there is a fresh in the river the reverse action takes place. The water -is always beautifully clear, and large bream, and perch can be seen, -in untold numbers, swimming about among the seaweed. But they are often -very shy of the bait, owing, it is supposed to there being an abundance -of their natural food. - -To the naturalist the long beach offers great attractions. Close to -the sandbar of the Styx there are numerous rock pools where anemonies, -chitons, a large variety of _Radiata_, and choice algae abound. Add -to these, a profusion of sponge and litoral shellfishes. Dead shells -strew the beach in myriads, and it is owing to this feature that many -families make Falmouth a place of resort during the summer season. Five -or six miles from Falmouth - - - THE LAGOON - -is reached. This is a picturesque sheet of imprisoned sea water into -which two or three streams disembogue. This lagoon is a favorite haunt -of that strange bird the Musk Duck which on the near approach of man -darts along the surface of the water with great speed, by using their -rudimentary wings as paddles, with which they beat the water into foam, -uttering at the same time a peculiarly discordant cry. The great dunes -of blown sea sand shut out the ocean from view for a great part of the -distance to George’s Bay, but the deafening roar of the surf is an -accompaniment all the way. At Freshwater Creek, where a stream flows -through a compact reticulation of rushes, sedges, and ferns, horses are -changed. We are now half way to the township of St. Helens. Densely -timbered heights on the one hand, the ocean on the other, and a gay -blossoming heath-covered _parterre_ intervening. A mile or two further -on, and the sand dunes lose much of their height and consequently -glimpses of the ocean are obtained. Yonder island, rising some five -miles off, is Marouard Island, by some called Rabbit Island, owing -to the large number of rabbits it contains. It is granite, and what -in geology is known as an “outlier.” How the rabbits manage to find -a living upon it is matter for marvel, for it has all the appearance -of a barren rock. Coasting crafts avail themselves of it for shelter -in rough weather. It affords but a poor haven at best, but there is -no other between Falmouth and George’s Bay. The small islet nearer -the shore is Paddy’s Island. Both, in days gone by were the resort -of seals. The road now passes through some fenced-in land, and after -crossing a streamlet and a gentle eminence where until very lately -before the new road was made it was the custom of the driver of the -coach to call out, “Now gentlemen” which being interpreted signified -the passengers getting out and walking up the hill to relieve the jaded -horses. This custom has departed now. Upon descending the opposite side -the visitor finds himself face to face with one of the most charming -saltwater lakes in the world. It is - - - DIANA’S BASIN - -and one can well conceive the fair and fleet goddess selecting such a -spot to bathe her limbs. Yonder dwelling, partly visible through the -trees, which flourish to the water’s edge, is the Summer retreat of F. -Groome, Esq. of “Harefield” at St. Mary’s. This lake is like the others -which we have passed――an inlet of the sea enclosed by a large and high -sandbank. Wild ducks, teal, and the never-absent cormorant, haunt it -in vast numbers, for it abounds in fish. Here for the first time since -leaving the eastern extremity of the pass we come upon granite the -prevailing rock of the stanniferous district we are about to enter. -A very interesting and instructive tale of cosmical change does this -same granite tell, but time and circumstance alike forbid us staying -to listen to it now. It will have been observed that there is a most -decided change in the character of the vegetation in these parts. The -gum trees no longer have the white, smooth bark which mark them a few -miles to the south-east. Instead of this the bark is rough, thick, and -deeply furrowed. They are the iron bark, or redgum of the colonists, -an exceedingly hard, and durable wood and it is much prized for sluice -boxes by the tin miner. Five miles more, and as the sun is setting over -the blue and distant mountains in the west――an abrupt turn of the road -occurs, and lo! the truly magnificent - - - GEORGE’S BAY - -opens to the view, with its numerous points, promontories, inlets and -emerald flats. It is justly considered to be the most picturesque bay -in the colony, and as a fishing ground is second to none. All the year -round fine flounders can be had while crayfish are a drug. There are -some very fine oyster beds which yield largely of these molluscs. The -township of St. Helens consists of about twenty houses. There are three -hotels which is just two too many. The Telegraph hotel is considered -the principal one. There is a Bank, Post Office, and Telegraph Office -in one neat building. A Police Office and Commissioner of Mines -combined. There are two general stores. The climate of George’s Bay is -unquestionably the finest in Tasmania. It is warmer than the Capital -and not subject to such sudden transitions of temperature. There are -very keen frosts in Winter, and also occasional frosts in Summer, but -the sun beams out with resplendent glory through soft blue skies, -flecked with fleecy clouds, after them. St. Helens is approached -through Jason’s Gates, spanned by a bridge at the mouth of the Golden -Fleece, an estuary which an artist would love to transfer to canvas. -Here the names again carry the memory back to the beautiful poetical -legend of the ancients. The traveller is now in the region of tin -mines. Try where he may, in the sands of the sea shore, the gravel -of the roads, he will obtain tin ore, but it exists only in payable -quantity from three to six miles from the coast. - -There is a fine river the George, rich in sylvan scenery, and teeming -with fish. The chief features of the district are the hills of granite, -with their smooth rounded crests. These swell up in all directions, -giving the country a highly undulating appearance. There are some very -rare scene studies for the artist in the ravines. The LEDA FALLS on the -Saxleby tin claim is one of these. The stream is divided into two falls -at the edge of a granite precipice in a deep rock-bound gorge. - -Within one mile of the Falls is a singular “weathered” granite mass -which I have named Truganini’s Throne. These spots and several others -in the neighborhood are well worth a visit, I may be excused for -quoting here a description of these two scenes which I lately published -in the _Australasian Sketcher_. - - - LEDA FALLS. - -These Falls are situated on the Saxleby tin claim, seven miles from -George’s Bay, and in the centre of the tin mining district. A stream -which takes its rise in the high granite hills of the district after -flowing through button-grass marshes, and dense thickets of banera, -cutting-grass and ti-tree, suddenly plunges down a deep romantic rocky -gorge. Here it is broken into numerous miniature falls――now eddying -round the walls of a granite basin which it has carved out through -untold ages, and anon babbling among the moss-covered stones which -interrupt its course, till when halfway through the gorge it leaps -over a deep vertical precipice with deafening roar. At the verge of -this precipice the stream is intercepted by a projection of rock which -divides it and causes it to fall in two streams into a depression of -the granite. At the sides of the ravine, huge overhanging masses of -worn granite――some of them thousands of tons in weight, give rise -to numerous recesses of sepulchral gloom. Over their portals hang -festoons of delicate climbing plants and feathery-fronded ferns grow in -profusion, gum-trees, acacia, dogwood and others whose branches meeting -overhead form a canopy which excludes the noontide sunshine. If I might -venture to call to aid metrical composition I would describe it thus:―― - - Forth from its secret mountain source it flows - Through em’rald swamps and tangled ti-tree dells; - Now making music soft ’mong granite stones, - O’er-mantled with bright moss of green and gold; - Now stealing dreamlike, through deep sunless shades, - Where never ripple ruffled its cool breast. - Thus flowing sea-ward in its chequered course - Till where a deep dark chasm twixt two hills - All unexpected opens to the view. - There at the verge divided into twain - It plunges down into the gloom profound - Where noise and mist and wild confusion reign. - - - TRUGANINI’S THRONE - -is distant about one mile from Leda Falls on the western bank of the -same stream. It is a remarkable example of weathered granite about 40 -feet high. Large gum-trees grow out of the joints of the rock 70 to 80 -feet in height. This is also well worth a visit from the tourist. - - - THE TIN MINES. - -The vallies intervening the granite hills are the scenes of the -operations of the miners. These vallies are chiefly occupied by -button-grass marshes through which creeks and smaller streamlets -flow and which take their rise in the higher mountain ranges in the -interior. This button-grass which may not be widely well-known grows -in tussocks from one foot to three feet in height and detached. Its -leaves are long and wiry, and its seed-vessels consist of spherical, -hard rough knobs about the size of marbles, closely resembling the old -brass buttons of that form, from which it derives its name. These knobs -are supported upon long smooth wiry stems often four and five feet in -length. In passing through one of these marshes these knobs frequently -spring back with considerable force, and owing to their hard rough -nature, and the flexibility of the stems are capable of inflicting -pain on the exposed face and hands. The creeks running through these -valleys are fringed with belts of dense ti-tree among which is the -flowering _melaleuca_ of the botanist, _banera_, or the river-rose -and tall cutting-grass oftentimes so thickly interlaced as to form an -almost impenetrable barrier. The soil on the hill-slopes is usually -poor and gravelly formed by the decomposition of the coarse porphyritic -granite of the district and yet it is thickly clothed with ironbark -gums, peppermint gums, prickly acacia and those arboraeolian harps the -sombre-hued Casuarina, on which, to indulge a figurative expression -the zephyrs love to play with viewless fingers. The tin ore, for the -most part is obtained at a depth from the surface of the vallies of -from four to six feet, in a pebbly drift occupying the depressions of -the granite which is usually decomposed so as to present a soft clayey -consistency. It would seem to be what is known as “erratic”――that is -it has come from a distance as the pebbles with which it is associated -have been supplied by rocks which are not to be met with in the -locality. - -At 10 miles inland to the west is the Land of Goschen, a flat well -grassed plateau on the banks of the George river, with a mountain -rising out of the midst. Four miles further on Gould’s Country is -reached, with its lofty mountain ranges of granite and deep gullies, -densely covered with myrtle, sassafras, and tree ferns. Here are -situated the principal tin mines of the East Coast. - -Profoundly grand are the gullies of this region as the road winds along -the mountain heights. Now on the right hand, now on the left the sides -of the mountains sweep down into apparently bottomless ravines. High -above the tops of trees over 300 feet in height in many instances the -eye of the traveller sweeps the terrible chasms so thickly covered with -tree-ferns and other shade and moisture-loving vegetation as to be -sunshine proof. The scene of St. Mary’s Pass is a combination of the -grand and picturesque. That of Gould’s Country is the awfully grand -alone. Here there is a slab some miles in length traversing the sides -of the mountains. There are two inns, several stores, and cottage -dwellings. Sixteen miles further to the West is Thomas Plain on which -stands the township of Weldborough surrounded for many miles by tin -mines. This is reached by a narrow pack-track from Gould Country which -is knee-deep in mud except in the very height of Summer. All the tin -ore raised here has to be packed out on horses to Gould’s Country and -Morina and owing to the continual traffic of the heavily-laden horses -and the exclusion of wind and sunshine by the dense vegetation the -track is a very “Slough of Despond.” - -Thomas Plain is situated in the centre of the Ringarooma district and -enclosed by an amphitheatre of lofty tree-crowned heights. Several -cool pellucid never failing streams flow through it. It is the most -picturesque in Tasmania. - -Such are the salient features of the North East Coast of Tasmania, -and I believe the visitor in search of a salubrious clime and choice -scenery will allow that these fully repay the journey. - - - * * * * * - - -Transcriber’s Notes: - -――Text in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_). - -――Obvious punctuation and spelling inaccuracies were silently corrected. - -――Archaic and variable spelling has been preserved. - -――Variations in hyphenation and compound words have been preserved. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WAYSIDE SKETCHES IN -TASMANIA *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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H. Wintle</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Wayside Sketches in Tasmania</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: S. H. Wintle</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: September 11, 2021 [eBook #66275]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Donald Cummings and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from scans of public domain works at The National Library of Australia.)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WAYSIDE SKETCHES IN TASMANIA ***</div> - - -<div class="figcenter" id="cover"> - <img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="cover" title="cover" /> -</div> - - - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h1 class="nobreak">WAYSIDE SKETCHES<br /> -<span class="smfonth1">IN</span><br /> -TASMANIA</h1> - -<p class="noi works">BY</p> - -<p class="noi author">S. H. WINTLE.</p> - -<p class="p6 noic">MELBOURNE:<br /> -H. THOMAS, 80 CHANCERY LANE.<br /> -1880.</p> - -<p class="p2 noic">AUTHOR’S RIGHTS RESERVED.</p> -</div> - - - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_1"></a>[1]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="NE_TASMANIA">NORTH-EASTERN TASMANIA.</h2> -</div> - -<p class="noic smcap">By S. H. Wintle.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">The Corners.</span></h3> - -<p>Notwithstanding that Tasmania is noted for the salubrity of its -climate, and the magnificence of its scenery from one end of the -island to the other, still there are localities which may claim -the preference, perhaps, in the eyes of the visitor who is in -search of health and the picturesque. There is no part of the -beautiful island that offers the same attractions as the North -East Coast in the neighborhood of George’s Bay, for here there -is a combination of majestic grandeur with Arcadian beauty. -To reach this favored locality, the traveller exchanges a seat in -the railway car for one in a four wheeled conveyance at the -Corners. It is very questionable if such another dreary, -monotonous spot exists on the face of the earth as the Corners. -Wherever the eye may wander, it meets with nothing but a -dismal stretch of a sheep run, dotted with a few stunted, distorted -trees, and the solitary, and still more dreary looking -hotel rising out of the midst, while its proprietor, and those -about him, have become hopelessly infected with the prevailing -gruesome air of the detested spot. But this unromantic -place is calculated to enhance the beauty of the scenes which -await the visitor, and as he bowls along on a hematite gravelled -road, as level as a billiard table, with good genial George Avery, -the Jehu, he feels a sense of satisfaction as he sees the Corners -fading away in the distance and the grand hills rising up before -him. On either side of the road for some distance, he will see -vestiges of the early days of the colony in the primitive fences of -brushwood, and “dogleg.” In eight miles, Stoney Steps is -reached where there is a hostelry kept by Herr Shmidt. Here -the traveller for the first time since leaving the city, makes -acquaintance with that most beautiful river, the picturesque -South Esk. While the horses are being changed, he will have -an opportunity of watching the falls at the rear of the Inn -where the pellucid stream tumbles over a rugged barrier of -basalt; and a little lower down observe how it spreads out into -a dreamy, apparently motionless reach, reflecting the acacias,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2"></a>[2]</span> -casuarina, and gums that thickly clothe its banks. Be the -visitor an enthusiast in the icthyial pastime, not the least -attractive feature of this stream in his eyes would be the fine -brown trout with which it abounds. Fifteen miles further, -through country consecrated to sheepdom, Avoca is reached. It -is a small village or hamlet with one inn, two stores, and about -a dozen cottages, but it is exceedingly picturesque, with the -river St. Paul, meandering through it, and it is well calculated to -awaken memories of what Ireland’s lyric bard wrote about the -“Meeting of the Waters.” Those</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Blue Hills</span></h3> - -<p class="noi">which the traveller saw after leaving the dismal Corners, stretching -like a barrier in the dim distance, he is now fairly amongst. -Grim, granite mountain heights, flanked and ribbed with the old -world palæozoic slates and sandstones, that have been upheaved -by the said granite from their originally horizontal position, into -a nearly vertical one, rise on either hand before him. At the -feet of those gracefully rounded heights, on the left hand, flows -the South Esk, and now, and anon, the visitor will get glimpses -of it through the trees that he is not likely to readily forget. -He will observe that the material of the road is of a very -different character to that he has been travelling over for -some time past, since he took his seat in the coach. He will -observe that it consists of waterworn pebbles of quartz and gravel. -In a word, he is in an auriferous region, and that charming -river that flows so peacefully at the feet of the high hills far -below, is responsible for these pebbles. In the slates and sandstones -on these hillsides, there are quartz veins and lodes containing -gold more, or less, and these have been worn down ages ago, the -result being that deep down in the old river bed the precious -metal lies, but it is locked up, and the woolgrowers have the key. -On the summits of those granite hills which are table-topped -there is tin ore in small quantity. But we must not stay here -too long to geologise, for we’ve many a league to traverse yet. -Now are we fairly in Saintdom, for we have crossed St. Paul’s -river, and two or three miles off the road to our right, rises St. -Paul’s Dome—a conspicuously rounded lofty hill, while St. Mary’s, -Mt. St. Nicholas and St. Patrick’s Head await us in the distance. -Some of the earlier colonists who conferred these names, in most -instances quite inappropriate, must have been deeply imbued -with Saint Worship. The road now for many miles will skirt -the ancient bed of the South Esk, which is perhaps the finest -valley in the island; much of it is devoted to agriculture, but -more of it to grazing.</p> - -<p>Towering far above all other hills proudly rises</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3"></a>[3]</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Ben Lomond</span>,</h3> - -<p class="noi">the highest mountain but one in Tasmania, and the fountain head -of several rivers. Here is another instance of topographical mis-nomenclature -in Tasmania. If the truth were known, it probably, -in no particular, resembles the Ben Lomond of Scotland. -Its bold broken and rugged outline at once arrests the visitor’s -attention. It, in this particular, presenting such striking contrast -to the smoothly rounded hills in the neighborhood. This -feature is due to the fact, that its summit consists of diorite, <i>i. e.</i> -trap rock used as metal for the roads. The granite, as already -stated, has burst through the stratified formations, and it in turn -has been disrupted by the diorite which covers it with a capping, -and this occurred during a far subsequent period known to geologists -as the great Volcanic Epoch. Many, and diverse are the -forms the outline of this mountain present as the traveller -speeds along. At one time its southernmost part presents the -appearance of a lion <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">couchant</i>. A mile or two further on, -and this resemblance no longer exists, and is like anything the -imagination of the spectator can supply. On the eastern escarpment, -near the foot of the mountain there is coal, and also -auriferous quartz lodes. The latter only is worked.</p> - -<p>When about half the distance to Fingal is accomplished, -there is another short stoppage to change horses at a roadside -stable, and a little further on the visitor sees an antiquated -vestige of former days in the shape of a ruined dwelling. It is -known as Grenbers Haunted House. Tradition has it, that a -horrible murder was committed there in the early days of the -colony, and no one will live in it on account of the nightly visitations -of the ghost of the murdered man. Yonder lofty hill, with -the peculiar cone-shaped rock-mass rising high from the centre -of the summit, is Tower Hill, where gold mining in the quartz -lodes is carried on with apparently not very satisfactory results. -As the traveller proceeds along the smooth and winding road, he -will observe that some of the cuttings have been made to a considerable -depth through very rounded pebbles and boulders of -quartz, and granite, interspersed occasionally with slate, sandstone, -and greenstone, while bands of gravel are frequently interstratified. -These are the ancient bed of the South Esk river, rolling now -more than one hundred feet below, through the valley, and they -tell him that many ages ago at this height that river flowed. -These exposed terraces alternate with cuttings through the -Silurian beds, exposing in vertical sections quartz veins, traversing -the almost vertical, and very much contorted slates and sandstones. -He has now reached “Tullochgorum,” the fine property of James -Grant, Esq., where the neat villa is just discernible through the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4"></a>[4]</span> -foliage of willows which surround it. In half an hour more he -will enter the township of</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Fingal.</span></h3> - -<p>A quarter of a century ago this place was the scene of much stir -and excitement, owing to it being the <em>locale</em> where payable gold -was first found in Tasmania. But the excitement was of comparatively -brief duration. Much money was lost, and the place -sank into unimportance. There are two large, substantial hotels, -a bank, two or three stores, a jail, surrounded by a high brick -wall, and a church which has remained unfinished for years. -Immediately behind the township is an immense precipice several -hundred feet high, as smooth on the face as a wall, and as vertical. -This marks the line of a very extensive fault, which runs for -many miles through the district to the East Coast. There is a -stoppage here, long enough to enable travellers to partake of -refreshment, post letters, or send telegrams. “All aboard” again, -and in a very few minutes the coach is crossing the Break o’ Day -rivulet on a very neat and substantial bridge, lately thrown across. -Before him stretches the magnificent Break o’ Day valley, about -12 miles long and from 2 to 3 miles in breadth. It may be considered -as an easterly extension of the South Esk valley. It is -the cream of this part of the country, and is in the tight embrace -of the octopus arms of two or three woolgrowers. According to -tradition it was the haunt of one of the bands of bushrangers in -the olden days, and many thrilling tales are told of the daring -exploits of some of these desperadoes, as from the lofty heights -on either side of the valley they could look down unperceived, -and observe what was going on below. To the naturalist the -stream that flows through the vale is of interest for the number -and size of its freshwater mussels, (<i>unio</i>) their shining, nacreous -shells strewing the banks—the work of the voracious cormorant. -Here, and indeed for some miles back, at intervals along the valley -of the South Esk he will hear a peculiar half cackling cry, -and then perchance see an apparently wingless bird about the -size and shape of a barn-door fowl, dart through the tall grass -with the speed of the emu and make for the rushes and sedges -which line the banks of the stream. This is the native hen. I -have never heard of them being shot for the table, as an impression -prevails that they are tough. The most striking feature about -them is the remarkable speed they attain when running, for there -are very few dogs that can catch them. The traveller is now -passing through a district in which there is much that is geologically -interesting and most paradoxical. High ranges shut -in the valley on either hand. That, on the left hand with -a huge precipice ascending from one side of a “saddle” is</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5"></a>[5]</span></p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Mount St. Nicholas</span>,</h3> - -<p class="noi">celebrated for a very thick seam of coal and three or four -smaller ones which make their appearance on the side of -the range 500 feet above the valley. The large seam is 16 -feet in thickness, but the coal, although bituminous, is of -a quality that renders it unfit for steam, or gas making purposes. -For one or two inches of good bright coal, there -are on the average from 12 to 15 inches of inferior earthy -matter—in fine bituminized clay. On the opposite side of -the valley this seam again appears at the same altitude at -Mt. Legion 4 or 5 miles away, and again at the back of -Fingal. There is a bullock dray road to the big seam, which -is surrounded by some very romantic bits of scenery. For -500 feet above the upper seam of coal, volcanic rock obtains, -which on the summit of the hill rises in very fine columns, -a characteristic of the greenstone of the same age in Tasmania. -The beds of clay above and below the coal furnish -very fine specimens of fossil ferns conspicuous among -which, are the tongue-fern <i>Glossopteris</i>, the wedge-fern -<i>Sphenopteris</i>, the nerve-fern <i>Neuropteris</i> and the tooth-fern -<i>Odontopteris</i>. All of which are long since extinct it is believed.</p> - -<p>That mansion just discernible through the poplar -and other acclimatised trees on the right hand of the visitor, -is Killymoon, the largest and most imposing structure in -the district, and is the residence of S. Ransome, Esq. Its -founder, the late Mr. Steiglitz, was evidently a man of -good architectural taste, and in it one is strongly reminded -of much that characterises the structures of medieval times. -The freestone of which it is built was quarried close by, -and is associated with the coal seams. It possesses the -remarkable property of resisting, to a great degree, the -action of fire, and in this respect much resembles itacolumite -sandstone, which is employed for the floor of furnaces -occasionally in Europe. When it is closely examined it is -found to consist of small, well rounded grains of quartz, -bound together by an argillo-siliceous cement.</p> - -<p>The visitor is now passing through Cullenswood, by -which name this part of the Break o’ Day valley is known. -A few cottages, and cultivated fields, with a church and its -resting place for the dead, are its chief features. Two miles -further on it merges into St. Mary’s. This village boasts -one inn, one general store, and a smithy. The inn is situated -on the brink of a clear, cool mountain stream which -is never failing. St. Patrick’s Head, with its perfect pyramid -form, rises grandly in front, while another conspicuous,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6"></a>[6]</span> -though less aspiring hill, the Black Elephant, forms the -eastern boundary of the vale. Horses are changed at the -inn and soon the traveller is being hurled merrily along -through an avenue of fine old wattle trees, whose branches -meet over-head, and if it be Spring time the perfume from -their golden blossoms is intoxicating. He must now be -prepared to witness in a very few minutes, one of the -grandest sights in natural scenery of the Southern hemisphere. -There are few persons who have resided long -enough in these colonies to become acclimatised that have -not heard of</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">St. Mary’s Pass.</span></h3> - -<p>It is a proverb, “See Venice and die,” I would say, See -St. Mary’s Pass, and <em>live</em> to describe it if you can (for it will -sorely tax your descriptive powers, be they ever so good) -to your friends. It alone is worth travelling a thousand -miles to behold where expense is not a consideration.</p> - -<p>From the time the last inn was left, the road gradually -ascends a gentle acclivity, and when the top is gained the -visitor is at the entrance of the Pass. An abrupt turn of -the road, and lo! opening far beneath him on his left hand, -is a yawning gulf, with almost perpendicular mountains -ascending on both sides. From this point it is <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">facilis -descensus</i>. As he looks down the awful chasm from the -narrow rock-hewn road, he involuntary recoils with a -shudder. Genial George observes this, for he was prepared -for it, and a suppressed smile, with a humorous twinkle in -his eye records it. Whatever exclamation of surprise, -fear, or appreciation of the sublime grandeur of the scene, -may escape the lips of the traveller, it is drowned with a -crack of the whip and “Come, get along there, lazy bones” -as the vehicle rattles over the adamantine, tortuous road, -leaving barely room for a foot passenger to pass between -it and the verge of the gorge; for there is no fence, except -at very sharp turns of the road. Down—down—down, -sweeps the terrible gulf. Higher—higher—higher, ascend -the tree-crowned heights, and looking from the road, the -traveller feels it would be possible to shoot a bird on the -opposite side. There is not a foot of ground but what -is densely covered with timber and undergrowth. Far below, -in the cool mossy depths can be seen the ever beautiful -plume-fronded fern trees, waving in graceful undulations -with the breeze, born of the great chasm; their -tender green, contrasting favorably with the darker, harder -hue of the surrounding gum trees. High over the tops of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_7"></a>[7]</span> -patriarchal forest giants, the eye sweeps the great abyss -and through the ambient air, can distinctly see the mosses -of green and gold draping the rocks and trees in the depths -of those sunless shades. It may be Spring time, and if so -the blossom of a wattle tree here and there, stands out in -strong relief among the myrtles and sassafras, scenting -the air with its rich perfume. Another turn of the Pass, -and there is a stone trough at which man and horse may -drink of water as pellucid and cool as the pendant dew-drops. -A mountain rill, which is almost vertical, comes -leaping down in tiny falls, and is then conducted by a little -flume into the stone trough. At one time the pass appears -to have turned back on itself—at another it is taking -a course at right angles—so numerous and acute are its -windings as it rounds the heads of the many gullies. Considering -that the pace at which the coach is being driven, -which is very little, if indeed, anything less than that before -the Pass was reached, apprehension of danger in the -coolest and most courageous spirits is excusable, but the -horses as well as driver know their work so well that a mishap -is of very rare occurrence while a fatal accident as far -as I know, has never yet been chronicled. St. Patrick’s -Head which the visitor saw from St. Mary’s rising into the -upper air, like a mighty pyramid he is now careering along. -A little over two miles of the descent is accomplished, -when another sharp turn unfolds to view the boundless -ocean rolling in long lines of foaming, curling, surges on -the shore—the hollow booming roar of which, is, and has -been for some time past distinctly audible. That little -hamlet consisting of one weather-boarded inn, and barely -half a dozen primitive cottages is Falmouth. The inn -which stands on a small headland overlooking the surf-beaten -shore, is as solitary-looking as a light-house. Down, and -still down, with its apparently endless windings, goes -the Pass. Deeper and still deeper seems to grow the -mighty gorge. On one hand is a high wall of rock, produced -by forming the road. It is compact greenstone, <i>i.e.</i> trap -rock, and testifies to the vast amount of labor and engineering -skill in constructing the Pass in days long past. High -overhead the mountain soars, and huge masses of rock are -impending like Damocles sword, and seem ready to come -thundering down on the slightest provocation, carrying -destruction and death in their course. This threatening -aspect have they presented for untold ages, and for untold -ages it they may maintain. Much room for marvel there is -as to how the trees continue to grow and hold their own<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8"></a>[8]</span> -on such steep mountain slopes, looking much like Natural -Selection at fault. But then gumtrees in Tasmania will -grow anywhere. Here, and there, the gracefully formed, -and tender green foliaged <i>Exocarpus</i> (native cherry tree), -and the lightwood tree fringe the edges of the Pass. For -eight miles the traveller winds along this remarkable chasm -and then finds himself on the sandy plateau of Falmouth -at the bottom, with the heaving ocean in front, and a large -sheet of imprisoned seawater on his left hand, into -which the collected waters of the gorge empty themselves. -That large and commanding brick house standing by itself -is the residence of Mr. Steele, who owns all the available -land for dairy farming in the locality. Horses are -changed at the inn where dinner can be had and then a -start is made to cross the Styx, but genial George, in this -case, is old <em>Charon</em>. From Saintdom we have entered the -regions of classical history, and instead of being rowed over -the Styx we go through it on wheels. Somewhat exciting -is the transit, the horses belly deep, and the traveller -has to lift his feet till his knees are level with his nose, -while the wheels of the coach stir up the black mud which -emits the antithesis of an agreeable odor. This continues -for about a mile. The road now runs along the sea shore, -and is separated from the surf-beaten beach by sand dunes, -covered with stunted vegetation, chiefly boobyalla. There -are 16 miles of sand road between Falmouth and George’s -Bay to which latter place I will assume the visitor is going. -It is one of the most trying roads to horses in the island. -Flat, swampy land, stretches for nearly two thirds of the -distance. Where swamps do not obtain, a profusion -of gay blossoming heath, chiefly <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">epacridae</i>, and the elegant -and sand loving grass tree clothe the ground. After -crossing the Styx, and having proceeded a mile, the picturesque -Scamander river is reached. It is spanned by a very -neat and substantial bridge lately built. The old bridge -in ruins is seen a short distance on the right. If the -traveller be a classical man, he will find the topographical -nomenclature of this region awaken associations of his -<i>Alma Mater</i>. I do not know whether the old-world -Scamander was distinguished for good fishing, but I do -know that this one offers splendid attractions to the -lovers of the rod and line. The water is half salt and -half fresh, being separated from the sea by a sand bar. -During rough weather, the waves break over this bar and -when there is a fresh in the river the reverse action takes -place. The water is always beautifully clear, and large<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_9"></a>[9]</span> -bream, and perch can be seen, in untold numbers, swimming -about among the seaweed. But they are often very -shy of the bait, owing, it is supposed to there being an -abundance of their natural food.</p> - -<p>To the naturalist the long beach offers great attractions. -Close to the sandbar of the Styx there are numerous rock -pools where anemonies, chitons, a large variety of <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">Radiata</i>, -and choice algae abound. Add to these, a profusion of -sponge and litoral shellfishes. Dead shells strew the -beach in myriads, and it is owing to this feature that many -families make Falmouth a place of resort during the -summer season. Five or six miles from Falmouth</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">The Lagoon</span></h3> - -<p class="noi">is reached. This is a picturesque sheet of imprisoned sea water -into which two or three streams disembogue. This lagoon -is a favorite haunt of that strange bird the Musk Duck -which on the near approach of man darts along the surface -of the water with great speed, by using their rudimentary -wings as paddles, with which they beat the water into -foam, uttering at the same time a peculiarly discordant -cry. The great dunes of blown sea sand shut out the -ocean from view for a great part of the distance to George’s -Bay, but the deafening roar of the surf is an accompaniment -all the way. At Freshwater Creek, where a stream -flows through a compact reticulation of rushes, sedges, -and ferns, horses are changed. We are now half way to -the township of St. Helens. Densely timbered heights on -the one hand, the ocean on the other, and a gay blossoming -heath-covered <em>parterre</em> intervening. A mile or two further -on, and the sand dunes lose much of their height and consequently -glimpses of the ocean are obtained. Yonder -island, rising some five miles off, is Marouard Island, by -some called Rabbit Island, owing to the large number of -rabbits it contains. It is granite, and what in geology is -known as an “outlier.” How the rabbits manage to find -a living upon it is matter for marvel, for it has all the -appearance of a barren rock. Coasting crafts avail themselves -of it for shelter in rough weather. It affords but -a poor haven at best, but there is no other between Falmouth -and George’s Bay. The small islet nearer the shore -is Paddy’s Island. Both, in days gone by were the resort -of seals. The road now passes through some fenced-in -land, and after crossing a streamlet and a gentle eminence -where until very lately before the new road was made it -was the custom of the driver of the coach to call out, “Now<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10"></a>[10]</span> -gentlemen” which being interpreted signified the passengers -getting out and walking up the hill to relieve the -jaded horses. This custom has departed now. Upon -descending the opposite side the visitor finds himself face -to face with one of the most charming saltwater lakes in -the world. It is</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Diana’s Basin</span></h3> - -<p class="noi">and one can well conceive the fair and fleet goddess -selecting such a spot to bathe her limbs. Yonder dwelling, -partly visible through the trees, which flourish to the -water’s edge, is the Summer retreat of F. Groome, Esq. of -“Harefield” at St. Mary’s. This lake is like the others -which we have passed—an inlet of the sea enclosed by a -large and high sandbank. Wild ducks, teal, and the never-absent -cormorant, haunt it in vast numbers, for it abounds -in fish. Here for the first time since leaving the eastern -extremity of the pass we come upon granite the prevailing -rock of the stanniferous district we are about to enter. A -very interesting and instructive tale of cosmical change -does this same granite tell, but time and circumstance alike -forbid us staying to listen to it now. It will have been -observed that there is a most decided change in the -character of the vegetation in these parts. The gum trees -no longer have the white, smooth bark which mark them -a few miles to the south-east. Instead of this the bark is -rough, thick, and deeply furrowed. They are the iron -bark, or redgum of the colonists, an exceedingly hard, and -durable wood and it is much prized for sluice boxes by the -tin miner. Five miles more, and as the sun is setting over -the blue and distant mountains in the west—an abrupt -turn of the road occurs, and lo! the truly magnificent</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">George’s Bay</span></h3> - -<p class="noi">opens to the view, with its numerous points, promontories, -inlets and emerald flats. It is justly considered to be the -most picturesque bay in the colony, and as a fishing ground -is second to none. All the year round fine flounders can -be had while crayfish are a drug. There are some very -fine oyster beds which yield largely of these molluscs. The -township of St. Helens consists of about twenty houses. -There are three hotels which is just two too many. The -Telegraph hotel is considered the principal one. There is -a Bank, Post Office, and Telegraph Office in one neat -building. A Police Office and Commissioner of Mines -combined. There are two general stores. The climate -of George’s Bay is unquestionably the finest in Tasmania.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11"></a>[11]</span> -It is warmer than the Capital and not subject to such -sudden transitions of temperature. There are very keen -frosts in Winter, and also occasional frosts in Summer, -but the sun beams out with resplendent glory through soft -blue skies, flecked with fleecy clouds, after them. St. -Helens is approached through Jason’s Gates, spanned by a -bridge at the mouth of the Golden Fleece, an estuary which -an artist would love to transfer to canvas. Here the names -again carry the memory back to the beautiful poetical -legend of the ancients. The traveller is now in the region -of tin mines. Try where he may, in the sands of the sea -shore, the gravel of the roads, he will obtain tin ore, but -it exists only in payable quantity from three to six miles -from the coast.</p> - -<p>There is a fine river the George, rich in sylvan scenery, -and teeming with fish. The chief features of the district -are the hills of granite, with their smooth rounded -crests. These swell up in all directions, giving the country -a highly undulating appearance. There are some very -rare scene studies for the artist in the ravines. The <span class="smcap">Leda -Falls</span> on the Saxleby tin claim is one of these. The -stream is divided into two falls at the edge of a granite -precipice in a deep rock-bound gorge.</p> - -<p>Within one mile of the Falls is a singular “weathered” -granite mass which I have named Truganini’s Throne. -These spots and several others in the neighborhood are -well worth a visit, I may be excused for quoting here a -description of these two scenes which I lately published -in the <cite>Australasian Sketcher</cite>.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Leda Falls.</span></h3> - -<p>These Falls are situated on the Saxleby tin claim, -seven miles from George’s Bay, and in the centre of the -tin mining district. A stream which takes its rise in the -high granite hills of the district after flowing through -button-grass marshes, and dense thickets of banera, cutting-grass -and ti-tree, suddenly plunges down a deep -romantic rocky gorge. Here it is broken into numerous -miniature falls—now eddying round the walls of a granite -basin which it has carved out through untold ages, and -anon babbling among the moss-covered stones which interrupt -its course, till when halfway through the gorge it -leaps over a deep vertical precipice with deafening roar. -At the verge of this precipice the stream is intercepted by -a projection of rock which divides it and causes it to -fall in two streams into a depression of the granite. At<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12"></a>[12]</span> -the sides of the ravine, huge overhanging masses of worn -granite—some of them thousands of tons in weight, give -rise to numerous recesses of sepulchral gloom. Over their -portals hang festoons of delicate climbing plants and -feathery-fronded ferns grow in profusion, gum-trees, -acacia, dogwood and others whose branches meeting overhead -form a canopy which excludes the noontide sunshine. -If I might venture to call to aid metrical composition I -would describe it thus:—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent0">Forth from its secret mountain source it flows</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Through em’rald swamps and tangled ti-tree dells;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Now making music soft ’mong granite stones,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">O’er-mantled with bright moss of green and gold;</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Now stealing dreamlike, through deep sunless shades,</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Where never ripple ruffled its cool breast.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Thus flowing sea-ward in its chequered course</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Till where a deep dark chasm twixt two hills</div> - <div class="verse indent0">All unexpected opens to the view.</div> - <div class="verse indent0">There at the verge divided into twain</div> - <div class="verse indent0">It plunges down into the gloom profound</div> - <div class="verse indent0">Where noise and mist and wild confusion reign.</div> - </div> -</div> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Truganini’s Throne</span></h3> - -<p class="noi">is distant about one mile from Leda Falls on the western -bank of the same stream. It is a remarkable example of -weathered granite about 40 feet high. Large gum-trees -grow out of the joints of the rock 70 to 80 feet in height. -This is also well worth a visit from the tourist.</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">The Tin Mines.</span></h3> - -<p>The vallies intervening the granite hills are the scenes of -the operations of the miners. These vallies are chiefly -occupied by button-grass marshes through which creeks -and smaller streamlets flow and which take their rise in -the higher mountain ranges in the interior. This button-grass -which may not be widely well-known grows in -tussocks from one foot to three feet in height and detached. -Its leaves are long and wiry, and its seed-vessels consist of -spherical, hard rough knobs about the size of marbles, -closely resembling the old brass buttons of that form, -from which it derives its name. These knobs are supported -upon long smooth wiry stems often four and five feet -in length. In passing through one of these marshes these -knobs frequently spring back with considerable force, and -owing to their hard rough nature, and the flexibility of -the stems are capable of inflicting pain on the exposed face -and hands. The creeks running through these valleys are -fringed with belts of dense ti-tree among which is the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13"></a>[13]</span> -flowering <em>melaleuca</em> of the botanist, <em>banera</em>, or the river-rose -and tall cutting-grass oftentimes so thickly interlaced -as to form an almost impenetrable barrier. The soil on -the hill-slopes is usually poor and gravelly formed by the -decomposition of the coarse porphyritic granite of the -district and yet it is thickly clothed with ironbark gums, -peppermint gums, prickly acacia and those arboraeolian -harps the sombre-hued Casuarina, on which, to indulge a -figurative expression the zephyrs love to play with viewless -fingers. The tin ore, for the most part is obtained at a -depth from the surface of the vallies of from four to six -feet, in a pebbly drift occupying the depressions of the -granite which is usually decomposed so as to present a -soft clayey consistency. It would seem to be what is -known as “erratic”—that is it has come from a distance -as the pebbles with which it is associated have been -supplied by rocks which are not to be met with in the -locality.</p> - -<p>At 10 miles inland to the west is the Land of Goschen, -a flat well grassed plateau on the banks of -the George river, with a mountain rising out of the -midst. Four miles further on Gould’s Country is reached, -with its lofty mountain ranges of granite and deep gullies, -densely covered with myrtle, sassafras, and tree ferns. -Here are situated the principal tin mines of the East Coast.</p> - -<p>Profoundly grand are the gullies of this region as -the road winds along the mountain heights. Now on -the right hand, now on the left the sides of the mountains -sweep down into apparently bottomless ravines. High -above the tops of trees over 300 feet in height in many -instances the eye of the traveller sweeps the terrible chasms -so thickly covered with tree-ferns and other shade and -moisture-loving vegetation as to be sunshine proof. The -scene of St. Mary’s Pass is a combination of the grand and -picturesque. That of Gould’s Country is the awfully -grand alone. Here there is a slab some miles in length -traversing the sides of the mountains. There are two -inns, several stores, and cottage dwellings. Sixteen miles -further to the West is Thomas Plain on which stands the -township of Weldborough surrounded for many miles by -tin mines. This is reached by a narrow pack-track from -Gould Country which is knee-deep in mud except in -the very height of Summer. All the tin ore raised here -has to be packed out on horses to Gould’s Country and -Morina and owing to the continual traffic of the heavily-laden -horses and the exclusion of wind and sunshine by the -dense vegetation the track is a very “Slough of Despond.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14"></a>[14]</span></p> - -<p>Thomas Plain is situated in the centre of the Ringarooma -district and enclosed by an amphitheatre of lofty -tree-crowned heights. Several cool pellucid never failing -streams flow through it. It is the most picturesque -in Tasmania.</p> - -<p>Such are the salient features of the North East Coast -of Tasmania, and I believe the visitor in search of a salubrious -clime and choice scenery will allow that these fully -repay the journey.</p> - - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="tnote"> -<p class="noi tntitle">Transcriber’s Notes:</p> - -<p class="smfont">Obvious punctuation and spelling inaccuracies were silently corrected.</p> - -<p class="smfont">Archaic and variable spelling has been preserved.</p> - -<p class="smfont">Variations in hyphenation and compound words have been preserved.</p> -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WAYSIDE SKETCHES IN TASMANIA ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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