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diff --git a/64959-0.txt b/64959-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1f8eed7 --- /dev/null +++ b/64959-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4423 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook of Picturesque Spain, by Kurt Hielscher + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and +most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms +of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you will +have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using +this eBook. + +Title: Picturesque Spain + Architecture, landscape, life of the people. + +Author: Kurt Hielscher + +Release Date: Mar 30, 2021 [eBook #64959] + +Language: English + +Produced by: Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at + http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images + available at The Internet Archive) + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PICTURESQUE SPAIN *** + + + + + + PICTURESQUE SPAIN + + + + + PICTURESQUE SPAIN + + ARCHITECTURE * LANDSCAPE + LIFE OF THE PEOPLE + + BY + K. HIELSCHER + + + T. FISHER UNWIN LTD + LONDON : : ADELPHI TERRACE + + + + + MOST HUMBLY DEDICATED + TO + HIS MAJESTY KING ALFONSO XIII. + OF + SPAIN + + +Spain is one great open-air museum containing the cultural wealth of the +most varied epochs and peoples. On the walls of the Altamira cave is +blazoned that much admired steer painted thousands of years ago by men +of the Ice Age. In Barcelona stand the fantastic buildings of +neo-Castilian present-day art. Celts, Iberians, Romans, Carthaginians, +Moors and Goths have fought and struggled for supremacy in Spain. Of all +this the stones tell us to-day. They are the chronicles. They relate of +bitter strife; of the culture and art aspirations belonging to times +gone by. Much has vanished into dust and ruin. That which has survived +time’s fretting tooth serves as a giant bridge to lead us back to the +past. + +Fate was kind enough to let me spend five years in Spain. Caught there +by the war while engaged in studies, I was cut off from home. I made use +of my involuntary stay to become acquainted with the country in its +furthermost corners. I roved to and fro from the pinnacles of the +Pyrenees to the shores of Tarifa, from the palm forest of Elché to the +forgotten Hurdes inhabitants of Estremadura. + +On all my lonely wanderings I was accompanied by my faithful camera: we +covered over 45000 kilometres together in Spain. We kept our eyes open +diligently. I say we, for in addition to mine was a precious glass eye +in the shape of the Zeiss lens. Whereas my eyes only made me the +intellectual recipient of what we saw, that of my travelling companion +made it a pictorial permanency. I took over 2000 photographs during our +peregrinations. This volume only presents a small selection. It was not +easy to make the final choice. Many a picture had to be omitted to which +I was attached, either for its peculiarity or its character. + +I went at no one’s instigation through Spain but that of my own in +search of the beautiful. I was not guided by any constraining +professional principles. Beautiful art treasures, geographical +peculiarities, enchanting landscapes, interesting customs that attracted +my attention were retained by my camera. I followed the same lines in +making my selections for publication. + +I entitle this volume “Picturesque Spain". Much will be unknown to many. +I begin however with a spot famous throughout the world.--And yet I was +bound to. Like the pilgrim who is drawn to the fabled Fontana Trevi once +he has drunk of its waters, so too was I drawn again and again to +Granada in my wanderings. I believe too that I have succeeded in +presenting the Alhambra from one or two different points of view. Who +indeed could exhaust this well of beauty? + +Nor could I pass heedlessly by Cordoba, Seville and Toledo, for these +towns are starting points.--Finger-posts to unknown Spain. Without these +monuments of ancient times, those parts of Spain situate far from the +high-roads remain an almost insolvable riddle. + +My pictures must speak for me. Those who know how to ask them will find +that they tell much. For this reason I shall limit myself to but a few +initiatory words. They serve to connect the known with the unknown; to +throw light on the paths along which I journeyed in Spain. + +=Granada!= Thy name is music; a joyous chord of beauty! To pass the spring +within thy gateways is to walk the heights of life. + +Spring has cast a shower of blossoms over the town and woven a delicate +green carpet around the Alhambra. How many many centuries has it not +worshipped thus yearly at the feet of the castle? Long ago passionate +Moorish women decorated their raven hair there with rosy almond +blossoms.--It is long since that the glory of those days has departed. +Perhaps this is why the castle walls look down so sadly at the beauty of +this blissful vernal soil. + +Bidding defiance in the grandeur of their strength the towers of the +Alhambra arise. Their fiery red lights skywards like the flames on giant +altars.[A] + +Is it possible that these massive cyclopean walls should hide a +fairy-land? + +Impatiently we climb the castle mount. Reaching an old stone gateway +ornamented with pomegranates, the noise of the streets is left behind as +we enter a yew grove whose ancient giant stems are ivy-grown; blue +myrtle covers the ground, the lights gleam golden through the foliage, +the wind murmurs among the branches, nightingales sing in the boscage, +swallows dart twittering over the tree tops, water hurries babbling down +the hilly slope. + +All this seems like a miracle in Spain so poor in forests. It is as +though another world had opened its gates. + +The great Gate of Judgment is passed, and an inconspicuous door leads to +the Court of the Myrtles. Here one feels surrounded by the spirit of the +Orient. Delicate jasper and alabaster columns support the airy arches +which are swung like lace veils from arcade to arcade. The emerald-green +waters of the fountain gaze dreamily skywards and at all the bright +beauty of the scene. + +Then there is the Court of the Lions, subject of so many songs, with the +filigreed architecture of its covered walks. Enchanting in its delicate +tracery and beauty, it is a fairy-tale, a poem in stone, infinitely +rhythmic with music. And indeed, music is the only language that can +render such beauty. + +The magnificent halls are full of a wealth of ornamentation. The walls +are rainbow-like with the colours of Persian carpets and Cashmere +shawls. Arabic inscriptions are scrolled along these labyrynths of +colour, praising in exalted words the mystic beauty of the halls. One +runs joyously: “God has filled me with such a plentitude of beauty that +even the stars stay in their course enchanted to gaze on me." + +Once beautiful sultanas looked out from the “Seat of Admiration" (as the +Arabs called that jewel of the Alhambra, the Mirador de Daraca,) into +the pretty garden filled with the heavy scent of roses, jasmines and +oleanders. A swaying mass of tangled climbing plants are festooned from +laurel to cypress, and from cypress to orange-tree. In the middle there +is a marvellously delicate fountain basin from the edges of which the +water slides and drips with tuneful sound as if it fain would tell of +long forgotten beauteous days. + +We leave the glittering fairy-palace full of memories of the Arabian +Nights, and our lips whisper the wish of the Arabic poem writ over a +little niche: + + “May Heaven’s blessings rest upon these castle halls + As long as pilgrims wend their way to Mecca’s walls!" + +Nay, as long as clouds sail the skies, and seekers after beauty rove on +earth! + +This is the mood one is in when climbing further up the mountain to the +Moorish summer palace, the Generalife. + +We are met, as it were, and shown the way by a double row of slim +black-green cypress--dark trees of silence. + +The Generalife is enthroned far up on the heights, and embedded in +terrace-shaped gardens. + +The gardens! In them nature has enfolded all her abounding wealth of +colour. Crimson-ramblers, wistarias, vines and ivy smother the walls. +Mangolias, oleanders, almond trees, laurels, cypresses, araucarias, +olive trees, agaves, palms and mimosa vie with one another for +precedence. Flaming pomegranate blossoms, blood-red roses, violet +mallows, blue fleurs-de-lis, white jasmine, yellow narcissi, and golden +oranges in dark green foliage are a riot of colour. Ball shaped myrtles +surround the little fountain, listening to the babbling of its silver +waters, and in the twigs the song of birds greeting nature in her +holiday garments. + +Wondrous peace broods o’er this land. Through trees and halls and wall +arches there is a magnificent view of the Alhambra and the +multi-coloured houses of the town at its feet, and further on to the +picturesque Albaicin, and over cactus-grown Sacromonte with its gypsy +cave-dwellings, and still further to the snow-capped Sierra Nevada. +Another glance shows the fertile plains of the Vega through which the +clear waters of the Genil flow. + +However full of radiant happiness the day may have been, it is outshone +by the sinking sun casting a golden halo over the country-side. The +walls of the Alhambra, once so fiercely fought for, stand forth as +though dipped in blood. The distant mountains glitter golden-bronze, and +the snowy sides of the Sierra Nevada scintillate in flames. Slowly the +fair fires die down, and a chill spectral white falls upon the snow +summits. The eventide is there and with it the stars. + +The Spaniards have coined a proud sentence: “Quien no ha visto Granada, +no ha visto nada!" He who has not seen Granada has seen nought! And I +should like to add: He who has seen Granada and the Alhambra on sunny +spring days, bears with him a talisman to ward off sorrows in dull days, +and can never be completely unhappy again in life. + + * * * * * + +The =Mosque, Cordova=. A nation set forth to convert the world to its +faith. Its battle-cry in this holy war was Allah! Victory after victory +was gained, till finally the triumphal march of fanaticism was stopped +by the opposing faith of its religious adversaries. The waves receded, +and the Cross triumphed over the Crescent. This struggle of two faiths +and two continents left indelible marks on the fields of battle. + +These wars had been carried on in the name of God. Sacred edifices were +erected to the victor. On the ruins of the mosque arose the most +beautiful cathedral in the world as token of victory. Spain never would +have received the impress she bears to-day without those bitter +religious wars. + +Cordova was the jewel among Moorish occidental towns, destined to +outshine the sister cities Damascus and Bagdad in the far Orient. It was +here that all the wealth and pomp of Moorish domination was displayed. +Cordova’s population exceeded a million souls. It was the seat of Arabic +art and profound learning; the centre of religious life. The muezzin +called the faithful to prayers from 3000 minarets. Cordova became a new +Mecca which drew crowds of pilgrims from the East to the West. + +What has now become of this metropolis? A shadow! Wandering through +narrow streets of the town one seems to be in Cordova of a thousand +years ago. The old cobbled pavements are probably the same, the houses +too, behind whose trellised windows the harem was hidden. The old +crooked, narrow and confused mass of streets are still there. Once in a +while a palm is seen leaning over white walls across the street; open +doors offer views into pleasant court-yards. + +The Mezquita, the Mosque, stands like a dark rock surrounded by the +white trembling light of the sea of houses. + +A wonderful gateway leads to the Orange Court. The fruit and flowers of +these trees perfume the air with incense. High up, backed by the blue +sky, the palm trees are waving in the wind. Fountains are plashing. Once +they served to refresh burnoosed dusty and foot-sore pilgrims come from +afar to serve their God here. The faithful bathed in these fountains +before purifying their souls in Allah’s house.--Now the fountains are +perpetually surrounded by the town maidens who come to fetch a cooling +draught in their finely curved earthenware jugs. + +The impression on entering the forest of columns that support the mosque +is both unexpected and overpowering. Is this not a petrified palm wood? +And does not this stony grove incorporate the conception of infinity? +There is a mystic dusk among these columns that lends to them an endless +space of silence and eternity: the symbol of belief. + +It is to the credit of the victorious Christians that they did not cool +their religious ardour by destroying this Islamitic place of worship. It +is extremely regrettable that their descendants have treated this +monument of Mohammedan culture with such carelessness. + +The mosque became a Christian church. Where once the cry of “Allah illah +Allah!" echoed thousandfold, “Praise be the Lord!" is now sung. The +first deed was to erect altars in the door-niches. Then seventy pillars +were laid low, and a choir with the High-Altar erected in their stead: a +church within a church. Charles V. was reluctant to give his permission +for these alterations. When he came to Cordova and saw what had been +done, he exclaimed in perturbation: “What you are building can be seen +anywhere. You have destroyed what was unique in the world."[B] + +Untouched in its pristine beauty, hidden in semi-darkness, not far from +the Holy of Holies of the Christian church, stands the Holy of Holies of +the mosque, the Mihrab or prayer-niche in which the Koran was kept. It +is a jewel of Moorish art. Whereas the rest of the mosque columns are +connected by double horse-shoe arches, banded in red and white, here the +beautifully chased dentated arches rise straight to the lovely curved +dome. The niche socle is white marble of lace-like texture above which a +profusion of colours glow: blood-red, rust brown, dark blue violet +interwoven with a sublime sheen of gold. Perhaps the mosaic walls and +lettered scrolls upon them have in some mystical manner caught the light +of the thousand swinging lamps that once had cast their soft rays +through the dim shades of space. For six long centuries all these +glowing colours were hidden. Before Cordova was surrendered to the +Christians the sanctuary was walled up. It was only discovered in 1815. + +We pass entranced along the colonnaded aisles, enthraled by the wondrous +beauty of this miracle in stone. It is like awakening from a fantastic +dream to set foot again in the blinding sun of the silent town that has +become the shrine of one of the most precious jewels in the world +(50-60). + + * * * * * + +=Moorish scenes far from the beaten track=: A burning hot day in +August.--The air trembles in the heat over the olive trees. The day +hangs heavy in the blue vault of heaven. I had been wandering for long +long hours, when all of a sudden my eyes were caught by a fata morgana: +wafted perhaps from the coast of Morocco? No, it was no mirage. +Impossible! Yet it did not disappear as I approached. Strange indeed was +the scene: houses scattered like dice over a mountain (91). + +A timid lad of whom I asked the name of the spot, slunk shyly past me. +My map was of no assistance to me. At last I was informed that I had +arrived at “la muy noble y bel ciudad Mochagar, llave y amparo del reino +de Granada". “What," I asked “this hamlet still calls itself the key and +guardian of the kingdom of Granada? But that kingdom was destroyed half +a thousand years ago when the Moors were driven from Granada." + +A miracle must have happened here that time should have remained +stationary. Here was the pure Moorish impress. Most of the houses are +windowless. The flat roofs are sometimes the road to the higher houses, +and always their foot-stool. And although the water of baptism has +wetted the women’s hair, they pass veiled in the Moorish fashion along +the streets. With tucked up skirts and naked legs they step lightly +along the steep alleys, returning from the fountains with water +amphorae. They eye the foreign trespasser suspiciously and curiously. +And when I requested the veiled women to let me take their photographs +they stared at me, for they had never even seen a camera. I showed them +a picture, and explained that I wanted to have theirs too. They refused. +Finally one girl agreed. But an old scold hurried up and beat her for +her frowardness: throwing herself away like that! In this Christian +country I found shamefacedness and adherence to the laws of Mohammed. +Let no mortal body serve as an image! + +An old man with whom I spoke about this incident told me that if a girl +no longer veiled her face, but hid her legs, there was not much left to +spoil about her. + +But I was determined that I would not leave without a picture of one of +the veiled beauties. At last I succeeded, with the consent of the mother +of one of the girls. The eye of my camera winked slyly when I took my +snap-shot. In thanking the girl, I held out my hand, but she seemed +quite taken aback, and hid her hands behind her. I pressed her to shake +hands. I should not do her any harm. But her mother apologized for her +saying: “No, she doesn’t mean to be rude, but it is not the custom in +our country for a girl to let a man touch her hand before marriage." +Perhaps this little incident explains the once much-used expression +employed by wooers “will you give me your daughter’s hand?" (90) + + * * * * * + +=The Palm Forest of Elché= (100-103). The only palm forest in Europe. It +numbers more than 115000 trees, and is also a Moorish heritage. They +caused the water to flow to this spot from a distance of 5 kilometres in +order to create an oasis here in the desert--for the district is to-day +little else. Palms must grow with their roots in the water and their +crowns in the glaring sun. For years no rain has fallen on this spot. + +The view is strange from the church-tower down on white houses over +which the palm tops are spread like a canopy. Beyond the palm forest the +grey-yellow desert plain surrounds this isle of peace. In the far +distance the blue ocean sleeps in proud majesty. Death and life are here +in close juxtaposition. + + * * * * * + +=Easter in Seville.= The train is rushing southwards over the arid +Castillian high plateaux, which in summer are as empty as a beggar’s +palm. The bare treeless Mancha has put on its modest spring garment +which now shows in the distance like delicate green velvet. A +short-lived joy! In but a few weeks the scorched ground will again be +covered with a yellowish-gray pall. + +At present the fresh breeze comes down from the mountains of the Sierra +de Guadarrama. Scarcely, however, has the train wound its way through +the wild cañons of the Sierra Modena, when spring opens wide her gate. A +warm damp hot-house atmosphere is wafted into the carriage windows. + +We are soon surrounded by meadows that are like a great flower-garden in +which the blood-red poppy and golden-yellow primrose struggle for +supremacy. Once in a while a village is seen dreaming like Sleeping +Beauty among the flower groves. For a long stretch agaves and cacti +fringe the track. Finally Seville sends forth her messengers in the +shape of blossoming rose-gardens and orange groves laden with their ripe +golden fruit. An ancient mangolia stretches a rosy blossom branch +towards us, lingering on in its old age in this scene so full of +yearning life. Tall slim palms nod to us, and yet new children of Flora +crowd upon us to bring us Seville and spring’s friendly welcome. + +Heedlessly the train clatters past all this beauty towards the white +maze of Seville’s houses, above which towers that beautiful emblem of +the town, the Giralda. At last the engine snorts noisily into the +station. + +But how different is everything to-day in front of the station. No +yelling hotel porters, no carriages awaiting the passengers, no +electric-car with clanging bell, no hooting of motor-cars.--The square +is lifeless at this early afternoon hour. It is the “Semana santa", +Passion-week, that has cast this almost oppressive spell of silence over +the great city. Even the brazen voices of the church-bells are muffled, +as though that had gone into sacred mourning. The wooden banging of the +Matraca calls hoarsely to prayers with dry and unmelodious voice. + +The further you penetrate into the town, the more the sacred holiday +stillness is ousted. All Seville is crowding, chattering and laughing to +the Cathedral to see the procession. At last you have to stop. There is +no getting through the impenetrable human wall. It is a strange +procession that is passing by, as though conjured up from the Middle +Ages. Huddled figures stalk past slowly and stiffly. They appear like +spectres. Old pictures of witches and inquisitionary trials are recalled +to my mind, for nowhere else have I ever seen such terrifying +apparitions; never in life. Black cowls are wrapped around their bodies, +and on their head are huge black conical hats a yard high. Long sable +cloths, in which only two eyelets are pierced, are suspended over their +faces down to their waists. A corded rope is wound round the penitential +garments. The hands of the apparitions clasp rough wooden crosses, or +metal staves, as tall as themselves. These figures march in front of a +portable dais on which a life-like statue of the Virgin Mary is +enthroned clad in magnificent garments thickly encrusted with gold.--The +procession stops. The dais is lowered. A young woman steps from the +crowd, turns her eyes to the Queen of Heaven and sings her praise. + +When the twenty or thirty bearers who carry the heavy dais on their +shoulders, and who are hidden by drapery suspended round the frame, have +rested enough, the signal to start is given by knocking on the front of +the dais. A jerk, and the procession moves on a few paces. One religious +body of brethren follows on the heels of the other. Each of them wear +their own distinctive multi-coloured badges. Some have a blue pointed +hat, others white, brown, violet or other coloured garments. Next to a +father his ten-year old son in the same vestments is often seen, as well +as the miniature penitent of fifteen in the procession. + +The various brotherhoods are filled with an ardent ambition to outdo the +others in the magnificence of their Pasos as the daises are called. The +whole story of the Passion from Gethsemane to the burial of our Lord, is +shown on them as they pass before our eyes.--Of course the clergy in +full canonicals, as well as the town and state officials are also +represented in the procession. At intervals, groups of Roman legionaries +of Christ’s day appear, then angels, and St. Veronica carrying the +kerchief. Interspersed bands bray and flourish the same march without +cess. + +Each brotherhood in the procession is cerimoniously received by the +chief authority of the town in Constitution Square which looks like a +huge theatre auditorium. It is filled with rows of chairs of which not a +single one is empty. The surrounding balconies are a sea of heads. + +Hour by hour passes. Night falls. And now hundreds of wax-candles blaze +forth on the daises, and each penitent carries a gigantic taper in his +hand. Thus this endless and mysterious procession of lights moves on to +the cathedral, passes through its magnificent nave, and out again +through the other doors into the streets. + +The cathedral has opened its treasure-house for the “Semana santa" and +displayed all its pomp. The candles of the gigantic bronze candelabrum +(the renowned Tenebrario) as well as on the altar the sacred wax-candle +weighing several hundredweight. A huge sepulchre has been erected to the +glory of Christ, in which the Holy of Holies is kept during Passion +week. Hundreds of lamps and candles illuminate the golden-white +four-storey edifice, which is over 30 metres high, and flooded with a +wondrous glowing halo. + +The celebrated miserere of Eslava is performed in the cathedral on the +night of Good Friday. But, alas! it is impossible to enjoy the sacred +tunes owing to the general noisy inattention around. Weary forms are +sitting on the steps of the chapels and around the grave of Columbus. +Here a mother is suckling her infant, there an animate heap of rags is +wrapt in sleep, and all the while there is a continual pushing and +elbowing to get to the front. + +However we must not judge of all this in the light of serious northern +church festivals. This would only lead us to drawing both severe and +wrong conclusions. Perhaps this manner may be an historical development. +Has not our Teutonic Christianity also wedded itself to much that is +ancient heathenism? For instance Christmas and the winter solstice +festival. Much that is Moorish obtains in Spain to this day. Perhaps +even--unconsciously--the conception of the purpose of a place of +worship. Was not the mosque often enough a secular place of meeting for +the Moslems, and at the same time a university? However, enough of +conjectures. It is a fact that the worship of the Lord and the Virgin +Mary is for the Spaniard a service of love. Whether the occasion be +Trinity or Passion week, it is one of joyful praise of Heaven. + +I shall always remember one quiet hour permeated with the holy spirit of +Easter among these joyful and yet pious Easter days.--I had mounted the +Giralda, that jewel of erstwhile Moorish minaret architecture, the +cathedral tower. At my feet lay the white sea of houses. The town was +bathed in sunshine. The beautiful blue dome of heaven spread its mighty +arch over the holiday-making land as though protecting and blessing it. +The faint music of the mass far below was wafted up to me, when suddenly +a booming vibration filled the air, and all the tower bells, which had +been silent so long, peeled out across the sunlit country: Christ is +arisen! The sister bells of all the other towers echoed the message +across the spring clad country. + + * * * * * + +=The Patio= (40, 42-49). It is a favourite expression to call Seville the +town of bright court-yards. Those court-yards which light and fill the +house with sunshine. The Sevillian house, or rather the Andalusian +house, is not a building such as our houses, fronting on the street, but +one that fronts to an inner court, turning its back on the street. The +outsides of the houses are bare of ornament, almost windowless; a secret +to the passer-by. All their beauty is displayed yardwards. There wealth +obtains in all its pomp, and poverty unfolds its modest ornaments. The +narrow passage--the Zaguan--leading from the street to the court is +closed by a railed gate. The gallery--to which access is gained by steps +leading from the court--is supported by columns. The rooms of the upper +stories lead to the gallery. To cool the air there is a fountain in the +middle of the court surrounded by palms, araucarias, laurels, +orange-trees, oleanders and flowers in pots. The walls are covered with +multi-coloured tiles. Against them brightly up-holstered furniture, +chairs, and sometimes even a piano; the inevitable guitar is in a +corner. Climbing plants festoon the court. + +Practically this is the centre of the whole family life. Friends are +received here, hours passed in argument, singing, music and +dancing--whether in company or alone, dreaming away the hours, listening +to the plashing of the fountain, it is in the court--the soul of the +house--that most time is spent. + + * * * * * + +There is nothing commonplace about Spanish houses. They still retain +their peculiarity impressed on them by the patina of age. Many have +tumbled down under the burden of years. Many are dead; but they “died in +beauty". The period of their prosperity still lingers on in the churches +and ornate façades of deserted squares. + +Toledo is the most Spanish of towns. It was once the heart of the +country, pulsating with the great rhythm of epic history. But its heart +no longer beats. + +Resting on steep granite hills above the deep Tajo valley stands the +yellow-grey heap of houses as though rooted in the rocks. Two gigantic +bridges span the river. Narrow alleys lead up hill and down dale; +many-cornered and dark. The whole town seems in a fighting mood. Huge +gateways and towers, the houses fort-like, the doors studded with heavy +nails. Indeed, there is hardly a town that has seen so many battles +rounds its walls. Spain’s history has passed over it with heavy steps. +And to-day? Rent walls, ruin and silence: the town the accumulated +wreckage of a thousand years (139-148). + +Segovia, Toledo’s sister city is situated similarly on rocks arising +abruptly from the plain. It is dominated by a great cathedral tower, and +guarded by the well-proportioned Alcazar which stands forth like a fairy +castle. A miraculous building, erected one would say to brave eternity +in the days when Christ was born. But otherwise Segovia is different to +Toledo. It is the Nuremberg of Spain, gay in its leafy setting +(157-164). + +There are other brave old companions-in-arms of these two veterans, +dating from ancient war days: circumvallated Avila (165-169), Cuenca and +Albarracin with their swallow-nest houses clinging to lofty crags (120, +121, 192-194), Daroca protected by two mountains over which the whole of +the battlemented walls have climbed (195-197), Alquezar in the Pyrenees, +the northern outpost of the Moors in Spain (210-212), Sigüenza, Jerica, +Trujillo, Caceres, Niebla, Carmona, Martos, Antequera, and many bold +castillos. + +Ronda is the most boldly situated town lying on a high plateau encircled +by a wide mountain arena (62, 63). Running through the rocky plateau is +a huge crevice which looks as though it had been split in rage by the +mighty fists of giants. + +The streams thunder down in all their wild force over the boulders, +hammer threateningly against the rocky walls, break into scintillating +spray, rush round in whirlpools, and hurry on their course. And in close +proximity to all this turmoil, the rocky walls stand unshaken in their +immobility against the sky-line, an emblem of eternity cast in stone by +the hand of God. The rainbow in the spray has been copied by man in the +shape of a bridge high over the abyss joining the rocky heights upon +which the town stands. + +Let us pass from these stubborn old battle towns to a more smiling +scene: San Sebastian (286-290) known throughout the world for its +incomparably beautiful situation on the sea. The view from Monte Ulia, a +mountain guarding the entrance to this paradise, is wonderful beyond +words. Here nature has modelled and painted a masterpiece. The sea hugs +the land in two gracefully curved bays and catches the beauties of the +town in the reflection of its waters. + + * * * * * + +=Cave-dwellings and the simple life.=--This time I decided to leave the +destination of my wanderings to chance. I could have chosen no better +guide. I set out long before the dew was dry, or the sun had risen. The +palm trees were just beginning to shake themselves in the early breeze +when I approached a strange rocky landscape. Dark holes in the rock +stared at me like dead eyes. But nevertheless life was hidden there. +Human forms stepped out of the holes to greet the morn. + +What I saw was a towering rock wall with hundreds of cave-dwellings next +to each other and over each other. Some of them were even five storeys +high and approached from the outside (92). Where the rocks were too +steep, the approaches had been dug from the inside, and upper storeys +created with outlook holes and loggias high up in the rocks. Tunnels had +been cut in the soft stone to get from one rock valley to the other. + +The children were running about in the costume God had given them. But +it is not to be supposed that they were troglodytes, and as unaware of +culture as those who lived in the ice period. High on the rocks you can +read in large black letters on a white background “El Retiro". + +Every Spaniard knows, at least by name, Madrid’s beautiful park the +Retiro. For this reason it seems somewhat of a joke to suddenly come +across the name in such a spot far up on the rocks. El Retiro, like +Sanssouci, means solitude, retreat, place of rest. An enterprising +hotel-keeper has levelled his portion of rocks into roof-terraces where +the favourite gossip hour (tertulla) is spent, skittles played, and +merry dances performed. Hence the alluring words on the wall for the +benefit of passers-by. On another rock is graven the brief significant +inscription: “Dios, Pan y Cultura" (God, Bread, and Culture. 92-95). + +During the course of another stroll I was again equally surprised. I saw +smoke arising in the distance from ground that looked like fantastic +mountain erosions. Surely this was not the site of volcanic activity? +Indeed this was out of the question. And on drawing nigh I discerned +human figures moving among the columns of smoke. I then saw to my +astonishment that little smoking towers--not unlike champagne corks in +shape--were chimneys projecting out of the ground. I had again strayed +among cave-dwellers. What Homeric primitiveness was there! The valleys +are the streets, the mountain sides the fronts of the houses, the +pinnacles villas. Front gardens are once and a while supplied by giant +cacti and spiky agaves. My wanderings in this interesting +world-forgotten primitive spot lasted for hours as I passed up and down +the so-called streets (96-99). + +My greetings were met with a cheerful response, and I was invited to +enter a cool cave, provided with a drink of fresh water, and shown the +treasures of the modest household: the bed on the ground, the hearth +with a copper kettle, the earthenware pitcher, the stool, the oil-lamp +and the image of the patron saint. + +“Now as to work?" I asked. “Well we don’t do too much in that way. We +cultivate what we need over there where the river runs. We make bricks +for the towns where the people live in houses."--Truly a picture of an +enviable state of modest requirements. There are still those who are +satisfied with the tub of Diogenes. Indeed you may find many such all +over Spain. I remember when at a little railway station finding only a +lad deep in his after-dinner nap. For the rest, there was no one else to +take my luggage, so I woke him up and asked him to help me. He stretched +himself in all the bliss of laziness, took a couple of coppers out of +his pocket, and showing them to me said: “I’ve earned 25 centimos to-day +already; that’s all I need," turned over, and went to sleep again. I +continued on my way recalling the words of the Indian philosopher: “He +who is without wants is nearest to God." + +There is no cause to shrug one’s shoulders. Diligence and happiness are +but relative conceptions. And just the poorest in Spain understand the +art of doing nothing combined with extracting joy from next to nothing. +They need a little shade in summer, and the sunshine in winter; a piece +of bread, a tomato, a drop of wine. The whole earth with the sky for a +roof is their bed-room; the highroad their field of labour. There is no +master they would exchange positions with; they are their own masters; +masters of their own time--verily a great possession this. Why then +should they not spend it generously? “He whom God helps will go further +than he who rises betimes" runs a Spanish proverb. And the Bible tells +us: “Behold the fowls of the air: for they sow not, neither do they +reap, nor gather into barns; yet your heavenly Father feedeth them." + + * * * * * + +=Feria in Sepúlveda.=--A bull-fight. There is high holiday in Sepúlveda, +(172, 173) an ancient little town far from the turmoil of the great +world, and far even from the railroad, which indeed is nearly 100 +kilometres away. The feria is the greatest day of the whole year. Men +and women crowd into the place on horses and donkeys. Old friends meet +again. Once more they see ‘life’. Above all it is the bull-fight that is +the greatest attraction. It has been for weeks already the only topic +worth speaking about. As however our little town has no arena, the +market-place is used instead. All day the lively rat-tat of hammers is +heard there. The windows of the picturesque dignified old town-hall gaze +smilingly down on the lively scene. At last there is really something +worth looking at again. Another long tedious sleepy year has gone by. + +There is hardly any one who does not go the hour’s walk outside the town +to admire the bulls which have come from a long way off, and for the +present are being kept at pasture. + +When the great day has come, every one is up with the sun. The arrival +of the savage animals is feverishly expected. The bravest show their +courage by going forth to meet the procession. + +A cloud of dust on the highway announces its approach. And finally forms +emerge from it. At the head a picador on horseback with a lance, behind +him the black bodies of the bulls surrounded by tame steers, and +followed by a second picador. As they rush through the narrow streets to +the market-square a mighty cry goes up: “Los toros! Los toros!" +Shouting, whistling, howling, yelling, and a general pandemonium rends +the welkin. + +Finally the bulls are secured, and it is only in the afternoon that the +longed-for hour arrives. + +The forenoon has its own pleasures. Young men demonstrate their daring +by teasing a young bull specially selected for the purpose, and earn +acclamation or mocking laughter as the case may be. These young heroes +try to put into practice what they have seen at the Torero; only it is +less dangerous. No blood is shed, only torn trousers and bruises are the +honorific mementoes of the great day (174, 175). + +My thoughts naturally harked back to the first bull-fight I had seen--in +Madrid. The impression was stupendous: fifteen thousand gay spectators +in the great sweep of the arena all impatient for the nerve-racking +fight to begin. The arena was filled with the babble of voices. It was a +chaos of colours, cloudy lace mantillas, flower-embroidered shawls, fans +swaying nervously, jet-black glowing eyes.--Shouts of applause greeted +the bull-fighters. Yells saluted the great bull as he rushed in. The +game was a risky one for life or death. Deeds of audacity were met with +idolatrous cheers, the timid with desolating laughter. All of a sudden a +coloured form is tossed into the air. A single scream from a thousand +throats.--“Is he dead?" “No!" A sigh of relief.--“Go on!"--The condemned +bull is mad with rage, his opponent cold as steel. He wields the mortal +instrument, the sword flashes, and a hurricane of applause bursts forth +for the victor and his tottering victim. White handkerchiefs flutter +from every seat like pigeons. Hats are waved, a shower of flowers +descends, and the fêted hero returns thanks, nonchalant and proud.--The +trumpets blare and a new fight begins (125, 126). + + * * * * * + +=Crossing the Picos de Europa.=--Masses of high mountains with peaks about +2700 metres high rise among the Asturian Cantabrian coast range. They +bear the proud name of Picos de Europa (The Peaks of Europe). They are +the Dolomites of Spain. But they exceed these considerably in +inaccessibility. + +Tourist facilities in Spain are of a very primitive nature. For this +reason there are no shelter huts for mountaineers in the Picos de +Europa, and there are likewise no trained guides. There are it is true +some game-keepers. Shepherds and miners acquainted with individual parts +of the mountains act once in a while as guides. + +I had been at the gateway of the Picos de Europa when at Covadongo the +celebrated place of pilgrimage. Since then the desire had never left me +to become acquainted with this demure mountain beauty so alluring and +yet so stand-offish in her loneliness. Thus I started for the mountains. + +My path led me from Unquera through the Deva valley to Potes at the foot +of the Picos. I very soon noticed that my task would be no easy one, for +shortly after leaving Panes the track winds through a mighty and deep +valley known as the Desfiladero de la Hermida. My reception was not a +friendly one. The rocky guardian of the valley looked down and frowned +at me, and the sky treated me at intervals to a cold shower-bath. + +In Potes the clouds were low down on the mountain sides on which I was +going to test my prowess the next day. But I was so enchanted with the +spot, that I willingly renounced the view for that day. + +The little town is a very ancient spot. It must once have been the seat +of many a knightly family. This is attested to by the various Spanish +coats of arms on the houses. But those times are now no more. Where once +Spanish grandees strutted by with buckled shoes and sword, clodhopping +peasants plod along. And the present generation is hardly aware of the +plentitude of beauty surrounding it. Bold bridges span the glen. Narrow +colonades with overhanging balconies cling to the steep river bank. A +multitude of archways offer innumerable enchanting glimpses. A high +watch-tower guards the houses clustering at its base. + +Before the sun had risen on the morrow I had set out. Dark and +dismal-looking clouds hung low over the landscape. But the Picos +pinnacles had rent them asunder, and suddenly they stood forth in the +glory of the rising sun. Dark night lay behind me as I marched towards +the sunlight. + +My guide met me by arrangement at Espinama. He was a grey-headed man +with weather-beaten face and smiling eyes. His feet were clad in leather +sandals, and under his arm was an ancient umbrella. We soon discussed +the itinerary, filled our _rucksacks_ and started for the Puerto de +Aliva. The old song came back to me:-- + + The sun on my way + In his golden array + Is my fellow and guide. + He casts my shadow + O’er flowery meadow. + I wander world-wide. + +As we passed on our way, the houses of the village became smaller and +smaller. We soon left the last tree behind, and our path led over sweet +green slopes, till they too were lost under the stony debris of rocky +giants. There was a hunting-lodge close to the foot of the Peña vieja +cliff which the king of Spain visits nearly every year when chamois +hunting. + +The day drew slowly to its end. Great streamers curled round the Peña +vieja, pale shadows floated by like silver grey cobwebs, and the mist +rose and fell with every breath of wind. The billowing fog had already +wrapped us in its mighty veil when we reached the miners’ inn at +Lloroza. An overseer invited us to spend the night there. And we were +right glad to find shelter, in spite of the fact that both the hut and +its furniture looked like the first attempts of primitive man to scale +the ladder of civilization. The night we spent on the hard ground was +not a very restful one, and we were glad when the approach of day called +us from our layer. + +When we left the hut a surprising spectacle met our eyes. The fog which +had deprived us of any possibility of obtaining a view the evening +before now lay at our feet in the valley. The summits of the mountain +rose like islands in the sea of mist. + +The moment had arrived when day struggled with night for predominance. +The full-moon’s silver disc hung in the deep blue of the western sky, +and the morning star held its own for a while against the rising light +in the east. At last both moon and star turned to pale glass when the +sun sent forth his herald rays. The horizon was tinged with pink; long +red streamers fluttered from the windows of heaven to greet us, and then +the sun rose above the misty expanse, gilded the crests, flooded the +eastern pinnacles with the glory of his light, and glowed on the rocky +wall to which our hut clung. O wonderful silence of that hour! + +“A new day beckons us to other shores." + +For yet a short distance the beaten path used by the king when stalking +showed us the way. Then we bent our steps over pathless boulders, sharp +edged rocks, mounds of debris, snow-fields strewn among the stony desert +with its jagged rock walls and towers. + +Whole herds of chamois stared in astonishment at the strange intruders +in their paradise. For the rest, they showed little inclination to run +away. The mountain fastness became progressively more barren and wild in +its aspect. An infinitely dismal mood seemed to brood o’er the scene. +Yet the magnificence of these mountains augmented from minute to minute. +Grotesque stone giants--cast in burning ore by the furnace of high +heaven--stood guarding this great grave of nature. + +Woe to the wanderer whose ignorant footsteps err here! Death lies in +ambush in the deep crevices and chasms. + +At last we halted in front of the monarch of the magnificent mountain +empire. His throne stands high in everlasting snow; a golden crown is on +his head. His picture is known to all from the most distant mountain +valley to the shores of the restless ocean. All admire his beauty, all +know his name: Naranjo de Balnes. + +This huge rock colossus rises 600 metres over its surroundings. Its +perpendicular walls show hardly a crevice. And it seems incredible that +nevertheless that bold mountaineer the Marqués de Villaviciosa de +Asturia climbed to its summit. + +On our wanderings round this mighty and stubborn rock tower we seemed to +be lightened of all earthly burdens high up there in the solitude above +the depths of humanity. + +We climbed up to the Ceredo tower. The rocks were as sharp as knives. +Again the ghostly mist rose from the valleys and whirled spectrally +around us. + +It was 5 o’clock and the Cares valley with Cain to where our steps were +directed were not yet in sight.--I asked my companion: “How far yet?" “A +few hours more" was the not very consoling reply.--The mist, that enemy +of mountaineers was getting thicker. And ere long we could not see +twenty paces ahead. The feeling of insecurity grew apace. And the +sensation of climbing with mist-bound eyes was terrible. Again I +questioned my guide. “Severo, is there no hut or shelter on the +way?"--“I don’t think so." Once more long minutes of silent groping. At +last we were, at any rate for a while, rid of the stony region. Here and +there a rocky projection, but it was quite impossible to tell if we were +not suspended on it hundreds of meters over a yawning abyss. It was +impossible to see anything through that fog. And at a quarter past six +it was pitch dark. + +Suddenly we came across a few low rough huts of unhewn stone huts +sheltered by a rock-wall. There at last we could spend the night. But my +guide wanted to go on. “Stop!" I cried. “Can we get to Cain to +night?"--“I don’t know." “Well then we’ll stay here!" Suiting the action +to the word, we crept into one of the huts, crouched down, and slept +fitfully through ten endless hours of night. But even they passed. The +morning meant a dangerous and nasty descent. We waded knee-deep in wet +grass, clambered over ledges with fog all around us. Woe to us had we +slipped! Then we got lost and had to stop and climb back with the +greatest care. Then we slid down a stony gully in which nearly every +step set rocks thundering to the depths below. + +At last the moist grey mist began to lift. A rift showed the bed of the +valley far beneath us, and, as we thought, houses. But no, we were +mistaken. They were huge boulders, the wreckage of some avalanche that +filled the upper hollow. Down and down we scrambled till finally we +broke through the foggy screen. Our goal was at our feet. Cain, +strangely walled in by precipitous rocky cliffs rising sheer 1500 metres +high. We were there! And we could rest. Some bread and butter was all we +could find in the whole village to appease our hunger. We would gladly +have rested there a day, but the place was too inhospitable. We had +therefore to shoulder our _rucksacks_ again. The distance we had climbed +down the day before, we had to climb up again on the opposite rocks of +the Peña santa. Hours and hours of strenuous efforts passed till we +reached the ridge. We re-descended valleywards in a drizzling rain. Lake +Enol was the last spot of beauty to be hidden from our view. It was +there we struck the main road, and then marched another 10 kilometres +down to Covadonga which we reached as tired as dogs. + +Night had already cast her shadow over the valley, and the stars were +beginning to shine forth. Welcoming lights were seen burning in +Covadonga. But it seemed as though we should never reach them. However +the prospect of a bed lent us strength, and at half past eight we +stumbled painfully over the threshold of a clean hospitable house. I +went to bed exhausted, and my restless dreams were haunted with the +beautiful and terrible wanderings in the Picos de Europa (266-274). + + * * * * * + + +=My pilgrimage to the Yuste Convent (153).=--I left soon after midnight, +for marching is delightful in southern nights when the glittering stars +shed their soft light from the great vault of heaven. In the south the +cool night is succeeded by summer days that are the misery of the +pedestrian.--The hours melted by but slowly in the furnace heat of the +day. I was beset with all possible ills: infernal heat, thirst, and no +water. Not a tree or a shrub was to be seen for miles; no shade; hours +without passing a house; not a soul abroad; the melancholy mood that +comes in the train of solitude. My path was obstructed by a river--at +any rate, water--but nary a bridge! So I had to wade, and continue my +journey. At last I spied a shepherd. What joy to feel that I was no +longer alone! + +“Is this the right road to Yuste?" I enquired of him.--“Yes, but where +doest thou come from, and what countryman art thou?" The good fellow +addressed me with the fraternal _tutoyer_, as though we were brothers. + +When he heard that I was a German he was quite surprised. He willingly +agreed to accompany me to the next village, and was quite curious to +hear something about my country. The news of the war had penetrated to +this remote part of the world. It was charming to listen to the +questions of this child of nature. He knew nothing of the three Rs; had +never seen a railway, had never left the neighbourhood of his village. +We soon met another shepherd on the mountain-side who was just as +pleased and interested as the other. And I must say, that wherever I was +in Spain, all classes of the population were friendly towards Germans. + +It was not long before we encountered other wayfarers who joined us, for +Sunday enticed them into the village. My entrance was therefore almost a +triumphal procession. We entered the inn, ordered some wine, and sat +down to a well-earned rest. When I wanted to pay the landlord, he +refused, telling me that Pepa had settled the bill. However, this +wouldn’t do. And at last he agreed to my paying on condition that the +next time I returned I should be his guest. They all shook hands with me +most-heartily and I continued joyfully on my way. + +At last I stood in front of the monastery gates. They were opened, and +the white haired abbot rode out on a little donkey, holding a green +parasol over his head. I saluted the venerable Father and enquired of +him whether I could stay at the monastery for the night. “No", he +replied, “impossible."--Discomfitted I exclaimed: “But where am I to go +to-day? I have travelled fifty kilometres and have come from +Navalmoral."--“What, on foot? Impossible!" “Yes, but I have. I am a +German and want to see the spot which the emperor Charles V. exchanged +for all the crowns in the world, and where he closed his eyes."--“You +are a German? Of course you can’t continue your journey." + +I was most kindly and touchingly taken care of. + +I was shown the monastery which had once been destroyed by the French. +Decay and mould have continued the work of destruction. But nature’s +eternal youth triumphs victoriously amongst the ruins and beautifies the +decay of age. And yet this is a place to think about the everlastingness +of all things, of the end of all terrestrial happiness.--Once that great +monarch who had fled from the turmoil of the world had paced these +halls. + +At supper, I, the infidel sat at the monks’ board and was treated like a +brother. + +The next morning I was awakened long hours before sunrise. A lay brother +lit me with a lantern through the dark and ancient park. The monastery +gate swung on its hinges, the latch fell heavily, and I was again out in +the world all silvery with the moonlight. For a moment I stood +entranced.--I heard the mass bell calling the monks to prayers. And the +gates of Paradise were closed behind me. + + * * * * * + +=The last echoes.=--My wanderings through Spain filled me with the joy of +life. She had become my second home. It was with a heavy heart that I +left. + + “O follow me ye southern days + ’Neath colder skies and paler stars. + And fill my thoughts with golden rays!" + +The hour of departure had arrived.--It was a wonderful moonlight night +in which the little Spanish steamer which was to bear me homewards +sailed slowly out of Ferrol harbour. The moon cast a silver bridge over +the water, and along it my thoughts fled back to other moonlight nights +when she had often shown me the way in picturesque Spain. + +The lights along the coast shone like the eyes of anxious friends +looking a last farewell before darkness closed their lids. And then the +little ship ploughed homeward through the eternal waters with the +eternal sky above us, and the old old song of the waves accompanied me +back to my familiar home. + + * * * * * + +And now that days and weeks of cloudy skies hang heavily over my country +where the sun is not so generous as in southern climes, my heart is +filled with yearning for Spain, with nostalgia for the sun.--Then I look +at my pictures, and we hold converse together, and re-live those +unfettered days spent in wanderings in sun-kissed Spain. + +In this volume I send forth my sun harvest. May it cast its light in the +hearts of many! May it tell of my love of Spain, and of my heartfelt +thanks to her chivalrous people for all their kind hospitality! + + + + +ALPHABETICAL LIST OF NAMES AND PLACES + + +Albarracin 192-194 + +Albufera 116 + +Alcala de Guadaira 71 + +Aldeanueva de la Vera 154 + +Algatocin 76 + +Alhambra 1-16, 22 + +Almazan 227 + +Alquezar 210-212 + +Andújar 44, 115 + +Antequera 64-66 + +Aranjuez 136-138 + +Arcos de la Frontera 48, 49, 72 + +Arranda de Duero 240 + +Autol 224, 225 + +Avila 165-169 + + +Barcelona 200 + +Batuecas 260, 261, 263 + +Bielsa 213 + +Bilbao 284 + +Burgo de Osma 226 + +Burgos 234-238 + +Butron 277 + +Brachimañasee 216 + + +Caceres 83, 84 + +Candelario 252, 253 + +Cangas de Onis 274 + +Carmona 43, 70 + +Castellbó 208 + +Castellfullit 204 + +Cave Dwellings 92-99 + +Cenaruza 282 + +Cepeda 155 + +Chorro 73 + +Ciudad Rodrigo 250, 251 + +Coca 184-187 + +Cordoba 50-60 + +Cuenca 120, 121 + + +Daroca 195-197 + +Debotes Valley 207 + +Durango 279, 283 + + +Ecija 68, 69 + +Elché 101-103 + +Elorrio 285 + +Escorial 129-135 + + +Fuenterabia 298 + + +Gerona 202, 203 + +Granada 1-25 + +Guadalajara 178-181 + +Guadalest 118 + +Guadix 100 + +Güejar-Sierra 77 + + +Hermida 266 + +Hurdes 259 + + +Jativa 111-113 + +Javea 108 + +Jerez de la Frontera 67 + +Jerica 191 + + +La Alberca 254, 256, 257 + +Lagartera 150, 151 + + +Madrid 126-128 + +Maladeta 219 + +Mañaria 278 + +Manzanera 42 + +Martos 74, 75 + +Medinaceli 176, 177 + +Mochagar 91 + +Mogarraz 258 + +Mombeltran 183 + +Monte Agudo 119 + +Montserrat 201 + + +Niebla 80, 81 + +Nuria 206 + + +Ondarroa 276 + +Orihuela 104-107 + +Oviedo 264, 265 + + +Pancorbo 231-233 + +Pasages 291-296, 304 + +Peñafiel 182 + +Peña Montañesa 214 + +Pic de Aneto 217, 218 + +Pic du midi 216 + +Picos de Europa 266-274 + +Pontevedra 301 + +Potes 270-273 + +Pyrenees 205-219 + + +Ronda 62, 63 + + +Sagunt 109, 110 + +Salamanca 246-249 + +San Esteban de Gormaz 229, 230 + +San Juan de Plan 209 + +San Sebastian 286-290 + +Santander 275 + +Santiago de Campostela 300 + +Sarragoza 220, 221 + +Segovia 157-164 + +Segretal 205 + +Sepulveda 172-175 + +Seville 28-41 + +Sierra Nevada 79 + +Sigüenza 188-190 + +Soria 228 + + +Tarifa 45, 46 + +Tarazona 223 + +Tarragona 198, 199 + +Toledo 139-148 + +Toro 244 + +Trujillo 85-87 + +Turrégano 170, 171 + + +Valencia 114, 117 + +Valladolid 241-243 + +Vigo 303 + + +Yuste 153 + + +Zafra 82 + +Zamora 245 + + +Towns: 2, 4, 16, 21, 28, 62-64, 72, 74, 80, 91-99, 120, 128, 139, 157, +166, 172, 191, 192, 195, 202, 204, 210, 223, 226, 227, 232, 246, 276, +286, 287, 290, 293. + +Gateways, Towers, Fortified Walls: 5, 29, 75, 80, 81, 85-87, 143, +167-169, 186-188, 193, 196. + +Streets, Squares: 24, 25, 31, 60, 65, 66, 75-77, 83, 85, 86, 147, 148, +154, 155, 163, 170, 173, 174, 175, 176, 189, 190, 193, 197, 198, 203, +208, 209, 211-213, 231-233, 247, 251, 253, 270-273, 278, 295, 296. + +Churches, Convents, Chapels, Cemeteries, etc.: 23, 31, 41, 50-59, 66, +67, 86, 108, 146, 147, 152, 153, 158, 164, 165, 169, 177, 199, 220, 221, +228, 229, 234-241, 244-246, 260-262, 264, 265, 282-285, 300. + +Squares, Public Buildings, Typical Houses: 6-15, 17-21, 30, 32, 33, +36-40, 68, 69, 114, 116, 117, 126, 127, 129, 130, 132, 134-137, 144, +162, 178-181, 250, 279, 280, 298. + +Courts (Patios) and Gardens: 6-8, 12-15, 17, 34, 35, 37, 40, 42-49, 58, +69, 82, 90, 131, 138, 145, 179-181, 200, 238, 242, 243, 249, 298. + +Stairways, Lattice Windows: 39, 68, 115, 144, 200, 203, 248. + +Fountains: 9, 12-15, 20, 37, 49, 60, 197, 232. + +Bridges: 63, 140-143, 268, 270, 274, 276. + +Castles (Castillos): 1-5, 22, 70, 71, 110-112, 118, 119, 141, 161, 170, +171, 182-186, 277. + +Views of Landscapes: 2-4, 21, 62, 63, 72, 73, 79, 88, 92-99, 101-107, +113, 116, 194, 201, 204-207, 214-219, 224, 225, 230, 260, 263, 266-269, +274, 275, 286-289, 291, 292, 294, 299, 301-304. + +Costumes and Life of the People: 26, 27, 61, 78, 84, 90, 122-125, 149, +150, 151, 155, 156, 160, 174, 175, 222, 252, 254-259, 262, 281, 296, +297. + +[Illustration: Granada-Alhambra.] + +[Illustration: Granada + +Alhambra and the Vega + +Alhambra y la Vega + +Alhambra und die Vega + +Vue de l’Alhambra et la Vega + +L’Alambra e la Vega] + +[Illustration: Granada + +Alhambra--In the background the Sierra Nevada + +Alhambra-Puesta del sol: En el fondo la Sierra Nevada + +Alhambra-Abendstimmung: im Hintergrund die Sierra Nevada + +Le soir à Grenade: au fond la Sierra Nevada + +L’Alambra sul tramonto: In fondo la Sierra Nevada] + +[Illustration: Granada-Alhambra.] + +[Illustration: Granada + +The Alhambra Towers + +Torres de la Alhambra + +Alhambratürme + +Les tours de l’Alhambra + +I torrioni dell’Alambra] + +[Illustration: Granada-Alhambra + +The Myrtle Court + +Patio de los Arrayanes + +Myrtenhof + +La cour des myrtes + +La corte dei mirti] + +[Illustration: Granada-Alhambra + +The Myrtle Court + +Patio de los Arrayanes + +Myrtenhof + +La cour des myrtes + +La corte dei mirti] + +[Illustration: Granada-Alhambra + +The Court of the Lions + +Patio de los Leones + +Löwenhof + +La cour des Lions + +La corte dei leoni] + +[Illustration: Granada-Alhambra + +The Lion Fountain in the Court of the Lions + +La fuente en el patio de los Leones + +Der Löwenbrunnen im Löwenhof + +La Fontaine avec le bassin dans la cour des Lions + +La fontana del leoni nella Corte omonima] + +[Illustration: Granada-Alhambra + +Court of Justice + +Sala de la Justicia + +Gerichtshalle + +La salle de Justice + +La sala della Giustizia] + +[Illustration: Granada-Alhambra + +Bay Windows of the Daraxa + +Le pavillion de la Daraxa + +Erker der Daraxa + +Mirador de Daraxa + +Il padiglione di Daraxa] + +[Illustration: Granada-Alhambra + +The Daraxa Court + +Un coin du jardin de la Daraxa + +Gartenhof der Daraxa + +Patio de Daraxa + +Il giardino di Daraxa] + +[Illustration: Granada-Alhambra + +The Daraxa Court + +Un coin du jardin de la Daraxa + +Gartenhof der Daraxa + +Patio de Daraxa + +Il giardino di Daraxa] + +[Illustration: Granada-Alhambra + +In the Daraxa Garden + +Patio de Daraxa + +Im Garten der Daraxa + +Dans le jardin de la Daraxa + +Il giardino di Daraxa] + +[Illustration: Granada-Alhambra + +The Cypress Court + +Patio de los cipreses + +Zypressenhof + +La cour des cyprès + +Il cortile dei cipressi] + +[Illustration: Granada-Alhambra + +View of the Albaicin from the Queens Boudoir + +Vista desde el Peinador de la Reina sobre el Albaicin + +Blick aus dem Putzzimmer der Königin nach dem Albaicin + +Vue sur l’Albaicin, prise du boudoir de la reine + +Veduta di Albalcin presa dallo spogliatola della regina] + +[Illustration: Granada + +Palace of the Generalife + +Palacio del Generalife + +Generalifepalast + +Palais da Généralife + +Palazzo del Generalife] + +[Illustration: Granada + +Entrance-Hall of the Generalife + +Entrade del Generalife + +Eintrittshalle im Generalife + +Entrée du Généralife + +Ingresso nel Generalife] + +[Illustration: Granada + +Colonnade in the Generalife + +En el Generalife + +Säulenhalle im Generalife + +Colonade dans le Généralife + +Colonnato nel Generalife] + +[Illustration: Granada + +In the Garden of the Generalife + +En el jardin del Generalife + +Generalifegarten + +Un jardin du Généralife + +Giardino del Generalife] + +[Illustration: Granada + +View from one of the Generalife Gardens on the Albaicin + +Vista desde un jardincito del Generalife sobre el Albaicin + +Blick aus einem Generalifegärtchen nach dem Albaicin + +Vue sur l’Albaicin, prise d’un jardin du Généralife + +Veduta di Albaicin da un giardino del Generalife] + +[Illustration: Granada + +View of Alhambra from the Outlook Tower of the Generalife + +Vista desde el Mirador del Generalife sobre la Alhambra + +Blick aus dem Aussichtsturm des Generalife auf die Alhambra + +Vue sur l’Alhambra, prise du belvedère du Généralife + +Veduta dell’Alhambra della torre del Generalife] + +[Illustration: Granada + +The Cathedral--The Royal Chapel--in the Railing the Passion + +La Catedral-Capilla real--En la reja la Pasión de Jesucristo + +Kathedrale-Capilla real--im Gitter die Leidensgeschichte Christi + +A la Cathedrale--La Chapelle royale--Au haut de la grille sont +representées les scènes de la Passion de Jésus-Christ + +Cattedrale--Capello Reale--Nel cancello è raffigurata la passione di +Cristo] + +[Illustration: Granada + +Street on the Darro + +Calle del Darro + +Straße am Darro + +Rue longeant le Darro + +Calle del Darro] + +[Illustration: Granada + +In the Albaicin + +En el Albaicin + +Im Albaicin + +L’Albacin + +Nell’Albacina] + +[Illustration: Gypsy dancing + +Gitana ballando + +Tanzende Zigeunerin + +Danseuse Gitane + +Zingara danzante] + +[Illustration: Playing the Guitar + +Con la guitarra + +Mit der Laute + +Une joueuse de guitare + +Con la chitarra] + +[Illustration: Sevilla + +General View of the Town from the Giralda Tower of the Cathedral + +Vista general, tomada desde la Giralda + +Blick vom Turm der Kathedrale (der Giralda) über die Stadt + +Vue générale, prise de la Giralda (tour de la cathédrale) + +Veduta dalla citta dalla torre (la Giralda) della Cattedrale] + +[Illustration: Sevilla + +The Golden Tower and the Cathedral + +La torre de Oro y la Catedral + +Der Goldturm und die Kathedrale + +La tour d’or et la cathédrale + +La torre dell’ora e la Cattedrale] + +[Illustration: Sevilla + +Details of the City-Hall Façade + +Detalle de la fachada del Ayuntamiento + +Teilstück der Rathausfassade + +Détail de la façade de l’hôtel de ville + +Dettaglio della facciata del Municipio] + +[Illustration: Sevilla + +The Giralda (Cathedral Tower) + +La Giralda + +Die Giralda (Turm der Kathedrale) + +La Giralda (Tour de la cathédrale) + +La Giralda (la torre della Cattedrale)] + +[Illustration: Sevilla-Alcázar + +The Ambassadors’ Hall + +Sala de Embajadores + +Gesandtensaal + +Salle des ambassadeurs + +La Sala degli Ambasciatori] + +[Illustration: Sevilla-Alcázar + +The Dolls’ Court + +Patio de las Muñecas + +Puppenhof + +La cour des poupées + +La Corte delle bambole] + +[Illustration: Sevilla + +In the Alcázar Garden + +En el jardin del Alcázar + +Im Alcázargarten + +Au jardin de l’Alcázar + +Nel giardino dell’Alcázar] + +[Illustration: Sevilla + +In the Alcázar Garden + +En el jardin del Alcázar + +Im Alcázargarten + +Au jardin de l’Alcázar + +Nel giardino dell’Alcázar] + +[Illustration: Sevilla + +Pilate’s House + +Casa de Pilato + +Pilatushaus + +La maison de Pilate + +La Casa di Pilato] + +[Illustration: Sevilla + +Court in Pilate’s House + +Patio de la Casa de Pilato + +Hof im Pilatushaus + +Cour intérieure de la maison de Pilate + +La Casa di Pilato, Corte] [Illustration: Sevilla + +Court Gates, Pilate’s House + +Portada de la Casa de Pilato + +Tür zum Hof des Pilatushauses + +Entrée de la cour de la maison de Pilate + +Porta di accesso alla Corte della Casa di Pilato] + +[Illustration: Sevilla + +Pilate’s House--Grille + +Casa de Pilato--Reja + +Pilatushaus--Fenstergitter + +Fenêtre grillée de la maison de Pilate + +Casa di Pilato. Finestra con grata] + +[Illustration: Sevilla + +Court in Duke Alba’s Palace + +Patio en el palacio del duque de Alba + +Hof im Palast des Herzogs Alba + +Cour intérieure du palais du duc d’Albe + +La Corte nel Cortile del Duca d’Alba] + +[Illustration: Sevilla + +St. Paul’s Convent + +Convento de Sta. Paula + +Kloster Sta. Paula + +Couvent de Sainte Paule + +Il Convento di Santa Paola] + +[Illustration: In Manzanera + +A Manzanera + +In Manzanera + +Dans la Manzanera + +En Manzanera] + +[Illustration: Court in Carmona + +Patio en Carmona + +Hof in Carmona + +Une cour de maison à Carmona + +Il cortile in una casa di Carmona] + +[Illustration: Court in Andújar + +Patio en Andújar + +Hof in Andújar + +Une cour de maison à Andújar + +Il cortile in una casa di Andújar] + +[Illustration: Court in Tarifa + +Patio en Tarifa + +Hof in Tarifa + +Une cour de maison à Tarifa + +Il cortile in una casa di Tarifa] + +[Illustration: Court in Tarifa + +Patio en Tarifa + +Hof in Tarifa + +Une cour de maison à Tarifa + +Il cortile in una casa di Tarifa] + +[Illustration: Court in Vejer + +Patio en Vejer + +Hof in Vejer + +Une cour de maison à Vejer + +Il cortile in una casa di Vejer] + +[Illustration: Court in Arcos de la Frontera + +Patio en Arcos de la Frontera + +Hof In Arcos de la Frontera + +Une cour de maison à Arcos de la Frontera + +Il cortile in una casa di Arcos de la Frontera] + +[Illustration: Court in Arcos de la Frontera + +Patio en Arcos de la Frontera + +Hof in Arcos de la Frontera + +Une cour de maison à Arcos de la Frontera + +Il cortile di una casa a Arcos de la Frontera] + +[Illustration: Cordoba + +Facade of the Mosque + +Fachada de la Mezquita + +Fassade der Moschee + +Façade de la mosquée + +Facciata della Moschea] + +[Illustration: Cordoba + +Columns in the Mosque + +Columnas en la Mezquita + +Säulenwald der Moschee + +Le fouillis des colonnes à l’intérieur de la mosquée + +La selva delle colonne nell’interno della Moschea] + +[Illustration: Cordoba + +Mihrab Mosque (Holy of Holies) + +Mezquita--Mihrab + +Moschee--Mihrab (Allerheiligstes) + +La Mosquée: le Mihrab (sanctuaire) + +La Moschee: Mihrab (santuario)] + +[Illustration: Cordoba + +Interior of the Mosque + +En la Mezquita + +Moscheeinneres + +Intérieur de la mosquée + +L’interno della Moschee] + +[Illustration: Cordoba + +Mosque--View of the High Altar + +Mezquita--Vista del altar mayor + +Moschee--Blick zum Hochaltar + +La Mosquée: vue du maître-autel + +La Moschea: veduta dell’altar maggiore] + +[Illustration: Cordoba + +Mosque--View from the Choir + +Mezquita--Vista desde el Coro + +Moschee--Blick aus dem Choreinbau + +La Mosquée vue de choeur + +La Moschea: veduta del Coro] + +[Illustration: Cordoba + +Mosque--Capilla de St. Fernando + +Mezquita--Capilla de S. Fernando + +Moschee--Capilla S. Fernando + +La Mosquée: chapelle de Saint Ferdinand + +La Moschea: Cappella di S. Ferdinando] + +[Illustration: Cordoba + +Mosque--Capilla de St. Fernando + +Mezquita--Capilla de S. Fernando + +Moschee--Capilla S. Fernando + +La Mosquée: chapelle de Saint Ferdinand + +La Moschea: Cappella di S. Ferdinando] + +[Illustration: Cordoba + +Mosque--The Court of Oranges + +Mezquita--Patio de las Naranjas + +Moschee--Orangenhof + +La Mosquée: cour des orangers + +La Moschea: La corte degli aranci] + +[Illustration: Cordoba + +Hermitage + +Ermita + +Einsiedelei + +L’Ermitage + +Eremo] + +[Illustration: Cordoba + +Fountain + +Fuente + +Brunnen + +Une fontaine + +Fontana] + +[Illustration: Straw Cart + +Carro para cargar paja + +Karren für Stroh + +Une charrette pour le transport da la paille + +Una carretta per il trasporto della paglia] + +[Illustration: Ronda] + +[Illustration: Ronda] + +[Illustration: Antequera] + +[Illustration: Antequera.--Plaza S. Sebastian] [Illustration: Antequera + +Chapel of the Virgin of Succour + +Capilla de la Virgen del Socorro + +Kapelle der hilfespendenden Jungfrau + +Chapelle de Notre-Dame de Bon Secours + +Cappella della Madonna del Buon soccorso] + +[Illustration: Jerez de la Frontera + +Cartuja--Cypress Court + +Cartuja--Patio de los cipreses + +Cartuja--Zypressenhof + +Cartuja: la cour des cyprès + +Cartuja: Il cortile del cipressi] + +[Illustration: Ecija + +Staircase in the Marquis of Peñaflor’s Palace + +Escalera en el palacio del Marqués de Peñaflor + +Treppenaufgang im Palast des Marqués de Peñaflor + +Cage d’escalier au palais du marquis de Peñaflor + +Scala nel palazzo del Marchese de Peñaflor] + +[Illustration: Ecija + +Court In the Marquis of Peñaflor’s Palace + +Patio en el palacio del Marqués de Peñaflor + +Hof im Palast des Marqués de Peñaflor + +Cour Intérieure du palais du marquis de Peñaflor + +La Corte nell palazzo del Marchese de Peñaflor] + +[Illustration: Carmona--Castillo] + +[Illustration: Alcala de Guadaira--Castillo] + +[Illustration: Arcos de la Frontera] + +[Illustration: El Chorro] + +[Illustration: Martos] + +[Illustration: Martos] + +[Illustration: Algatocin] + +[Illustration: Güejar-Sierra (Sierra Nevada)] + +[Illustration: In a Wayside Inn (Sierra Nevada) + +En una posada (Sierra Nevada) + +In einer Wegschenke (Sierra Nevada) + +Intérieure d’une posada (auberge) da la Sierra Nevada + +In una trattoria. Sierra Nevada] + +[Illustration: In the Sierra Nevada (Holm Oak) + +En la Sierra Nevada + +In der Sierra Nevada (Steineichen) + +Chênes rouvres dans la Sierra Nevada + +Nella Sierra Nevada. Lecci] + +[Illustration: Niebla] + +[Illustration: Niebla] + +[Illustration: Zafra + +Court in St. Miguel’s Hospital + +Patio en el hospital de S. Miguel + +Hof im Hospital S. Miguel + +Cour de l’hopital Saint-Michel + +Ospedale di S. Michele. Il cortile] + +[Illustration: Cáceres.] + +[Illustration: Cáceres + +Water-Carriers + +Mujeres con jarros de agua + +Wasserträgerinnen + +Porteuses d’eau + +Portatrici d’acqua] + +[Illustration: Trujillo + +Chief Square + +Plaza mayor + +Hauptplatz + +La grande place + +La piazza principale] + +[Illustration: Trujillo + +Santiago Gate + +Puerta de Santiago + +Santiagotor + +La porte Saint-Jacques + +La porta di Santiago] + +[Illustration: Trujillo + +Old Town-Gate + +Puerta antigua + +Altes Stadttor + +Vieille porte d’entrée + +Un’antica porta della città] + +[Illustration: Village in South Estremadura + +Aldehuela en el sur de Estremadura + +Dorf in Süd-Estremadura + +Un village de l’Estremadura méridionale + +Villagio di capanne nell’ Estremadura meridionale] + +[Illustration: Inn (South Estremadura) + +Venta (en el sur de Estremadura) + +Schenke (Süd-Estremadura) + +Une buvette dans l’Estremadure méridionale + +Osteria (Estremadura meridionale)] + +[Illustration: Moorish women of Christian persuasion who still wear the +veil in Mochagar-Vejer + +Mujer en Mochagar-Vejer llevando la cara tapada como las marroquínas + +Eine der noch heut maurisch verschleiert gehenden Christenfrauen in +Mochagar-Vejer + +Une des femmes chrétiennes qui vont encore voilées aujourd’hui comme au +temps des Maures d’Espagne + +Una donna cristiana che va ancor oggi velata all’uso marocchino] + +[Illustration: Mochagar] + +[Illustration: Cave Dwellings (Province of Almeria) None of the caves +shown in this book are prehistoric. They are still excavated and +inhabited + +Cuevas en las rocas (Prov. de Almería) + +Höhlenfels (Prov. Almeria) Alle in diesem Werk wiedergegebenen Höhlen +sind nicht vorgeschichtlich; sie werden noch jetzt gegraben und bewohnt + +Cavernes dans le roc. (Province d’Almeria) Toutes ces cavernes ne sont +pas des formations préhistoriques; on en creuse maintenant encore pour +les habiter. + +Caverne nella roccia (Provincia d’Almeria) Tutte le caverne riprodotte +in quest’opera non sono di formazione preistorica, ma si contina a +scavarle anche al giorno d’oggi] + +[Illustration: Cave Dwellings (Province of Almeria) + +Cuevas en las rocas (Prov. de Almería) + +Höhlenfels (Prov. Almeria) + +Cavernes dans le roc (Province d’Almeria) + +Caverne nella roccia (Provincia d’Almeria)] + +[Illustration: Cave Dwellings (Province of Almeria) + +Cuevas en las rocas (Prov. de Almería) + +Höhlenfels (Prov. Almeria) + +Cavernes dans le roc (Province d’Almeria) + +Caverne nella roccia (Provincia d’Almeria)] + +[Illustration: Cave Dwellings (Province of Almeria) + +Cuevas en las rocas (Prov. de Almería) + +Höhlenfels (Prov. Almeria) + +Cavernes dans le roc (Province d’Almeria) + +Caverne nella roccia (Provincia d’Almeria)] + +[Illustration: Cave Town (Sierra de Guadix) The chimneys of the +dwellings are seen projecting out of the rocks + +Población de cuevas (Sierra de Guadix) Se ven las chimeneas de las +cuevas, saliendo de tierra + +Höhlenstadt (Sierra de Guadix) Aus der Erde ragen die Schornsteine der +Wohnhäuser hervor + +Une ville souterraine (Sierra de Guadix) On ne voit surgir de terre que +les cheminées des habitations + +Una città di caverne (Sierra de Guadix) Si vedono sorgere dal suolo i +camini delle caverne] + +[Illustration: Cave Town (Sierra de Guadix) + +Población de Cuevas (Sierra de Guadix) + +Höhlenstadt (Sierra de Guadix) + +Habitations souterraines (Sierra de Guadix) + +(Sierra de Guadix) Città di caverne] + +[Illustration: Cave Town (Sierra de Guadix) + +Población de Cuevas (Sierra de Guadix) + +Höhlenstadt (Sierra de Guadix) + +Habitations souterraines (Sierra de Guadix) + +Città di caverne (Sierra de Guadix)] + +[Illustration: Cave Town (Sierra de Guadix) + +Población de Cuevas (Sierra de Guadix) + +Höhlenstadt (Sierra de Guadix) + +Habitations souterraines (Sierra de Guadix) + +Città di caverne (Sierra de Guadix)] + +[Illustration: Guadix] + +[Illustration: In the Palm Forest of Elche + +Las palmeras de Elche + +Im Palmenwald von Elche + +Elche: au milieu des palmiers + +Il palmizio di Elche] + +[Illustration: In the Palm Forest of Elche (A date-picker in the +tree-top) + +Las palmeras de Elche + +Im Palmenwald von Elche (Im Baumwipfel ein Dattelpflücker) + +Elche: la récolte des dattes. (L’homme grimpé au sommet du palmier en +détachera les régimes de fruits) + +Nel palmizio di Elche (Sulla palma un uomo che coglie datteri)] + +[Illustration: Elche + +Evening in the Palm Forest + +Caia la tarde + +Abend im Palmenhain + +Effet de soir + +Il tramonto nel palmizio] + +[Illustration: Orihuela] + +[Illustration: Orihuela] + +[Illustration: Orihuela + +Huerta Hut + +Barraca de la huerta + +Huertahütte + +Barraque de la Huerta + +Capanna] + +[Illustration: Near Orihuela + +Cercanias de Orihuela + +Bei Orihuela + +Environs d’Orihuela + +Presso Orihuela] + +[Illustration: Javea (Denia) + +Church of Calvary + +Iglesia del calvario + +Kalvarienbergkirchlein + +L’église du calvaire + +La chiesetta del Calvario] + +[Illustration: Gateway to the Mount of Calvary, Sagunt + +Puerta del calvario de Sagunto + +Tor zum Kalvarienberg bei Sagunt + +Environ de Sagoute: Accès et entrée du Calvaire + +La porta del Calvario presso Sagunto] + +[Illustration: Sagunto, Roman Castle + +Sagunto, Castillo romano + +Sagunt, Römische Burg + +La citadelle romaine + +Castello romano] + +[Illustration: Jativa + +Castle + +Castillo + +Burg + +Le Château-fort + +Castello] + +[Illustration: Jativa + +View of the Castle + +Vista del Castillo + +Blick zur Burg + +Vue sur le Château-fort + +Veduta del Castello] + +[Illustration: Jativa + +On Mount Calvary + +El Calvario + +Am Kalvarienberg + +Le Calvaire + +Il Calvario] + +[Illustration: Valencia + +Gateway of the Marquis de Dos Aguas Palace + +Portada del Palacio del Marqués de Dos Aguas + +Portal des Palastes des Marqés de Dos Aguas + +Portail du palais du marquis de Dos Aguas + +Portale del Palazzo del Marchese de Dos Aguas] + +[Illustration: Andújar + +Grille + +Reja + +Fenstergitter + +Fenêtre grillée + +Una finestra con grata] + +[Illustration: Huts on the banks of the Albufera near Valencia + +Barracas de La Albufera cerca de Valencia + +Albuferahütten bei Valencia + +Environs de Valence: Cabanes de l’Albufera + +Capanne di Albufera presso Valenza] + +[Illustration: Huerta Huts near Valencia + +Barracas de la Huerta de Valencia + +Huertahütten bei Valencia + +Maisons de paysans de la Huerta + +Capanne di Huerta presso Valenza] + +[Illustration: Guadalest Castle (Prov. of Alicante) + +Castillo Guadalest (Prov. de Alicante) + +Castillo Guadalest (Prov. Alicante) + +Château de Guadalest (Province d’Alicante) + +Castello di Guadalest (Provincia di Alicante)] + +[Illustration: Monte Agudo (Prov. de Murcia) + +Mount Agudo (Prov. of Murcia)] + +[Illustration: Cuenca] + +[Illustration: Cuenca] + +[Illustration: The Jerez mantilla + +Con la mantilla jerezana + +Im Schmuck der Mantilla von Jerez + +Sous la mantille (Femme de Jerez) + +Mantiglia jerezana] + +[Illustration: With the mantilla + +Con la mantilla + +Im Schmuck der Spitzenmantilla (als Hintergrund die Manton) + +En mantille de dentelle + +Mantiglia a merletti] + +[Illustration: La Argentinita, Spain’s most celebrated dancer wearing +the Manton (shawl) + +La Argentinita + +Argentinita, Spaniens berühmteste Tänzerin im Schmuck der Manton +(Schultertuch) + +La Argentinita, la plus célèbre danseuse de l’Espagne avec la mante +espagnole sur les épaules + +Argentinita, la più celebre ballerina della Spagna, con sulle spalle il +caratteristico Manton spagnole] + +[Illustration: Entrance of the bull-fighters into the Madrid Arena + +El despejo en la plaza de toros de Madrid + +Einzug der Stierkämfer in die Arena von Madrid + +Entrée du cortège dans l’arène avant la corrida (Madrid) + +Ingresso del toreadori nell’Arena di Madrid] + +[Illustration: Madrid + +The Throne-Room in the Royal Castle + +Sala del Trono en el Palacio Real + +Thronsaal des Königlichen Schlosses + +La salle du trône au Château royal + +La Sala del Trono nel Palazzo Reale] + +[Illustration: In the Royal Castle El Pardo near Madrid + +En el Pardo + +Im Königlichen Schloß El Pardo bei Madrid + +Une salle du château royal d’el Pardo près de Madrid + +Nel Palazzo Reale El Pardo, presso Madrid] + +[Illustration: Madrid] + +[Illustration: Escorial] + +[Illustration: Escorial] + +[Illustration: Escorial + +Court of the Evangelists + +Patio de los Evangelistas + +Evangelistenhof + +Cour des evangelistes + +La corte degli evangelisti] + +[Illustration: Escorial + +Throne-Room + +Sala del Trono + +Thronsaal + +La salle du trône + +La sala del Trono] + +[Illustration: Escorial + +The Library + +La biblioteca + +Die Bibliothek + +La Bibliothèque + +La Biblioteca] + +[Illustration: In the Escorial Palace: on the walls tapestries after +Goya’s paintings + +Palacio del Escorial + +Im Palast des Escorial: an den Wänden Gobelins nach Goyaschen Gemälden + +Le Château de l’Escurial. Tapisseries des Gobelins d’après des peintures +de Goya + +Nel Palazzo dell’Escorial. Alle pareti tappeti Gobelins con riproduzione +delle pitture di Goya] + +[Illustration: Escorial + +Philip II. Study + +Despacho de Felipe II + +Arbeitszimmer Philips II + +Cabinet de travail de Philippe II + +Gabinetto da lavoro di Filippo II] + +[Illustration: Aranjuez--Casa de Labrador + +The Platinum Hall + +Sala de Platino + +Platinsaal + +Maison de Labrador. La salle de platine + +Casa de Labrador. Sala del platino] + +[Illustration: Aranjuez + +In the Casa de Labrador + +En la Casa de Labrador + +In der Casa de Labrador + +Intérieur de la maison de Labrador + +Nella Casa de Labrador] + +[Illustration: Aranjuez + +The Palace Garden + +Jardín del Palacio + +Schloßgarten + +Le jardin du palais + +Giardino del Palazzo] + +[Illustration: Toledo] + +[Illustration: Toledo + +Tajo Valley and St. Martin Bridge + +Valle del Tajo y puente de S. Martin + +Tajotal und San Martinbrücke + +La vallée du Tage et le pont St. Martin + +La valle del Tajo dal ponte di S. Martino] + +[Illustration: Toledo + +Alcantara Bridge and St. Servando Castle + +Puente Alcantara y Castillo S. Servando + +Alcantarabrücke und Castillo S. Servando + +Pont d’Alcantara, et château de St. Servando + +Il Ponte d’Alcantara e il Castello di S. Servando] + +[Illustration: Toledo + +Alcantara Bridge with the Alcazar in the background + +Puente Alcantara en el fondo el Alcazar + +Alcantarabrücke, überragt vom Alcazar + +Le Pont d’Alcantara, dominé par l’Alcazar + +Il Ponte Alcantara e in alto, in fondo, Alcazar] + +[Illustration: Toledo + +View through the gateway of the Alcantara Bridge + +Vista tomada desde la puerta del puente Alcantara + +Blick durch das Brückentor der Alcantarabrücke + +Vue de la porte d’entrée du pont d’Alcantara + +Veduta del Ponte d’Alcantare dal Portone del Ponte stesso] + +[Illustration: Toledo + +Staircase in St. Cruz Hospital + +Escalera del hospital de Sta. Cruz + +Treppe des Hospitals Sta. Cruz + +Escalier de l’hôpital Santa-Cruz + +Scala dell’ospedale di Santa Cruz] + +[Illustration: Toledo + +In the court of the Casa Greco + +En el patio de la Casa del Greco + +Im Hof des Grecohauses + +Cour de la maison du Grec + +Cortile della Casa del Greco] + +[Illustration: Toledo + +Cloister of St. Juan de los reyes + +Claustro de S. Juan de los reyes + +S. Juan de los reyes, Kreuzgang + +Cloître de St. Jean de los reyes + +Loggiato del Chiostro di S. Juan de los reyes] + +[Illustration: Toledo + +Cathedral Spire + +Torre de la Catedral + +Turm der Kathedrale + +Tour de la Cathédrale + +Il campanile della Cattedrale] + +[Illustration: Toledo] + +[Illustration: Ox-cart + +Carro de bueyes + +Ochsenkarren + +Chariot attelé de boeufs + +Carro tirato da buol] + +[Illustration: Lagartera Costume (Prov. of Toledo) + +Traje de Lagartera (Prov. de Toledo) + +Tracht von Lagartera (Prov. Toledo) + +Jeune femme de Lagartera (Province de Tolède) + +Costume di Lagartera (Prov. di Toledo)] + +[Illustration: Lagartera Wedding Dress (Prov. of Toledo) + +Traje de boda de Lagartera (Prov. de Toledo) + +Hochzeitstracht von Lagartera (Prov. Toledo) + +Une noce à Lagartera (Province de Tolède) Les maries + +Veste nuziale di Lagartera (Prov. di Toledo)] + +[Illustration: Forest Chapel + +Capilla en el bosque + +Waldkapelle + +Calvaire et chapelle champêtres + +Cappella silvestre] + +[Illustration: Ruins of the Cloister in Yuste Convent + +Ruinas del Claustro de Yuste + +Ruinen des Kreuzganges im Kloster Yuste + +Ruines du monastère de Yuste + +Rovine nel Chiostro di Yuste] + +[Illustration: Aldeanueva de la Vera] + +[Illustration: In the village-square of Cepeda before the bull-fight + +Antes de la novillada en la plaza de la aldea da Cepeda + +Vor dem Stierkampf auf dem Dorfplatz von Cepeda + +Avant le combat de taureaux sur la place de Cepeda + +Prima della Corrida di tori nella piazza del villaggio di Cepeda] + +[Illustration: Segovian shepherd + +Pastor segoviano + +Segovianischer Hirt + +Un berger ségovien + +Pastore segoviano] + +[Illustration: Segovia] + +[Illustration: Segovia + +The Cathedral + +La Catedral + +Kathedrale + +La Cathédrale + +La Cattedrale] + +[Illustration: Segovia + +The Roman Aqueduct + +El acueducto romano + +Römischer Aquädukt + +L’aqueduc romain + +Acquedotti romani] + +[Illustration: Segovianian peasant. In the background the Segovia +Alcázar + +Aldeano segoviano, en el fondo el Alcázar de Segovia + +Segovianischer Bauer, im Hintergrund der Alcazar von Segovia + +Un paysan ségovien. A l’arrière-plan: l’Alcazar de Ségovia + +Contadino segoviano, e, in fondo, l’Alcazar di Segovia] + +[Illustration: Segovia--Alcázar] + +[Illustration: Segovia, Casa de los Picos] + +[Illustration: Segovia] + +[Illustration: Mount of Calvary near Segovia + +Calvario de Segovia + +Kalvarienberg bei Segovia + +La Calvaire de Ségovie + +Il Calvario di Segovia] + +[Illustration: “My God, how lonely, are the dead" (Becquer) + +“Dios mio, que solos se quedan los muertos" (Becquer) + +“Mein Gott, wie einsam bleiben doch die Toten" (Becquer) + +“Mon Dieu, combien est grande la solitude des morts"! (Becquer) + +“Dio mio, in che abbandono riposano i morti"! (Becquer)] + +[Illustration: Avila] + +[Illustration: Avila + +The Town Wall + +La muralla + +Stadtmauer + +Les murailles de la ville + +La mura della città] + +[Illustration: Avila + +St. Vincent Gate + +Puerta de S. Vicente + +Stadttor S. Vicente + +La Porte Saint-Vincent + +La porta di S. Vicente] + +[Illustration: Avila + +The Cathedral apse. The strongest fortified tower of the town with +sheltered passages and machicolations + +Apside de la Catedral como torre mas fuerte de defensa con +circunvalación + +Apsis der Kathedrale als stärkster Verteidigungsturm der Stadtmauer mit +Wehrgang und Pechnasen + +Abside de la cathédrale servant de principale tour de défense, avec +chemin de ronde et mâchicoulis + +L’Abside della Cattedrale serve di potente torre di difesa, munita di +cammino di ronda] + +[Illustration: Turrégano, Castillo] + +[Illustration: Turrégano, Castillo] + +[Illustration: Sepúlveda] + +[Illustration: Sepúlveda] + +[Illustration: Bull-fight in the market-place of Sepúlveda + +Becerrada en la plaza mayor de Sepúlveda + +Stierkampfspiel auf dem Marktplatz von Sepúlveda + +Combat de taureaux sur la place du marché, à Sepúlveda + +Giuochi di corrida nella piazza del Mercato di Sepúlveda] + +[Illustration: Bull-fight in the market-place of Sepúlveda. (The matador +is about to give the final thrust) + +Novillada en la plaza mayor de Sepúlveda. + +Stierkampf auf dem Marktplatz von Sepúlveda. (Der Stierkämpfer im +Begriff, den Todesstoß zu tun) + +Combat de taureaux sur la place du marché, à Sepúlveda. (Le matador va +porter le coup de mort à l’animal) + +Corrida nella Piazza del Mercato di Sepúlveda. (Il Toreador nell’atto di +vibrare il colpo mortale)] + +[Illustration: Medinaceli + +The Market + +Plaza mayor + +Marktplatz + +La place du marché + +La Piazza del Mercato] + +[Illustration: Medinaceli, Capilla Humilladero] + +[Illustration: Guadalajara + +Palace of the Infantado + +Palacio del Infantado + +Palast del Infantado + +Palais de l’Infante + +Palazzo del Infantado] + +[Illustration: Guadalajara-Palacio del Infantado + +Entrance-Hall and view of the Court + +Entrada y vista del patio + +Eintrittshalle und Blick in den Hof + +Vestibule d’entrée et vue dans la cour + +Ingresso e veduta della corte] + +[Illustration: Guadalajara + +In the court of the Palace of the Infantado + +En el patio del palacio del Infantado + +Im Hof des Palastes del Infantado + +Cour du palais de l’Infante + +Nella corte del palazzo dell’ Infantado] + +[Illustration: Guadalajara + +In the court of the Palace of the Infantado + +En el patio del palacio del Infantado + +Im Hof des Palastes del Infantado + +Cour du palais de l’Infante + +Nella corte del palazzo dell’ Infantado] + +[Illustration: Castillo Peñafiel] + +[Illustration: Castillo Mombeltran] + +[Illustration: Castillo Coca] + +[Illustration: Castillo Coca] + +[Illustration: Castillo Coca + +Gate and Watch Tower + +Puerta y torre del homenaje + +Eingangstor und Wartturm + +Porte d’entrée et donjon + +Porta d’ingresso e torre] + +[Illustration: Coca + +Old Town Gate + +Puerta antigua de la ciudad + +Altes Stadttor + +Ancienne porte de la ville + +Vecchia porta della città] + +[Illustration: Sigüenza + +Castle Gate + +Puerta del castillo + +Burgtor + +Porte du vieux château-fort + +Porta del Castello] + +[Illustration: Sigüenza + +Great-Square + +Plaza mayor + +Hauptplatz + +La grande place + +Piazza principale] + +[Illustration: Sigüenza] + +[Illustration: Jérica] + +[Illustration: Albarracín] + +[Illustration: Albarracín] + +[Illustration: Albarracín] + +[Illustration: Daroca] + +[Illustration: City Gate + +Puerta de la ciudad + +Stadttor + +Porte de la ville + +Porta della città] + +[Illustration: Daroca] + +[Illustration: Tarragona + +St. Tecia Gate + +Puerta de Sta. Tecia + +Tor der Santa Tecia + +Porte de Sainte Tecia + +Porta di Santa Tecia] + +[Illustration: Tarragona + +Cathedral Cloisters + +Claustro de la Catedral + +Kreuzgang der Kathedrale + +Cloître de la cathédrale + +Navata della Cattedrale] + +[Illustration: Barcelona + +Stairway In the Court of the Damases House + +Escalera en el patio de la casa de Damases + +Treppe im Hof des Hauses Damases + +Escalier dans la cour de la maison Damases + +Scala nel cortile del Palazzo Damases] + +[Illustration: The Montserrat. Monistrol at the foot + +El Montserrat. En primer termino Monistrol + +Der Montserrat, im Vordergrund Monistrol + +Le Montserrat, avec Monistrol au premier plan + +Il Montserrat. Sul davanti Monistrol] + +[Illustration: Gerona] + +[Illustration: Gerona + +Steps of St. Domingo + +Escalera de Sto. Domingo + +Treppe von S. Domingo + +Escalier de Saint Domingue + +La scala di S. Domingo] + +[Illustration: Castellfullit (Cataluña) + +The town is built on basalt columns + +El pueblo se levanta sobre columnas de basalto + +Der Ort ist auf Säulenbasalt erbaut + +La petite ville est bâtie sur des roches de basalte + +Il Paese e stato costruito su colonne di basalto] + +[Illustration: Pyrenees, Segre Valley + +Pirineos, Valle del Segre + +Pyrenäen, im Segretal + +La vallée de la Sègre dans les Pyrenées + +Valle del Segre] + +[Illustration: Pyrenees, Road to Nuria + +Pirineos, Camino de Nuria + +Pyrenäen, Weg nach Nuria + +Les Pyrenées: Route de Nuria + +Pirenei, Via di Nuria] + +[Illustration: Pyrenees, de las Debotas Gorge (Rio Cinca) + +Pirineos, Paso de las Debotas (Rio Cinca) + +Pyrenäen, Engpaß de las Debotas (Rio Cinca) + +Les Pyrenées: Les gorges de las Debotas (Rio Cinca) + +Pirenei, Passo de las Debotas (Rio Cinca)] + +[Illustration: Pyrenees. Castellbó + +Pirineos. En Castellbó + +Pyrenäen, in Castellbó + +Les Pyrenées: Castellbo + +Pirenei. A Castellbó] + +[Illustration: Pyrenees St. Juan de Plan + +Pirineos. S. Juan de Plan + +Pyrenäen. S. Juan de Plan + +Les Pyrenées: Saint-Jean de Plan + +Pirenei. S. Juan de Plan] + +[Illustration: Pyrenees-Alquezar + +Pirineos-Alquezar + +Pyrenäen-Alquezar + +Les Pyrenées: Alquezar + +Pirenei-Alquezar] + +[Illustration: Alquezar] + +[Illustration: Alquezar] + +[Illustration: Pyrenees. In Bielsa + +Pirineos. En Bielsa + +Pyrenäen. In Bielsa + +Les Pyrenées: Bielsa + +Pirenei. In Bielsa] + +[Illustration: Pirineos. Peña Montañesa] + +[Illustration: Pyrenees. Pic du midi + +Pirineos. Pico del Mediodia + +Pyrenäen. Pic du midi + +Les Pyrenées: Le pic du midi + +Pirenei. Picco del Mezzogiorno] + +[Illustration: Pyrenees. Sea of Brachimaña, near Panticosa + +Lago da Brachimaña cerca de Panticosa + +Pyrenäen. Brachimañasee bei Panticosa + +Les Pyrenées: Le lac de Brachimaña, près de Panticosa + +Pirenei. Lago di Brachimaña presso Panticosa] + +[Illustration: El Aneto + +The highest summit of the Pyrenees (3404 m) in the foreground a crevasse + +El pico mas alto de los Pirineos (3404 m). En el primer termino un +barranco de hielo + +Der höchste Gipfel der Pyrenäen (3404 m) im Vordergrund eine +Gletscherspalte + +Le plus haut sommet des Pyrenées (3404 mètres) au premier plan une +crevasse dans le glacier + +La più alta vetta del Pirenei (3404 m). Sul davanti la fenditura di un +ghiacciaio] + +[Illustration: Pyrenees. View from the Pic de Aneto + +Pirineos. Vista tomada desde el Pico de Aneto + +Pyrenäen. Blick vom Pic de Aneto + +Les Pyrenées: Vue prise du pic d’Aneto + +Pirenei. Veduta dei monti dal Picco de Aneto] + +[Illustration: Pyrenees. The Maladeta seen from the Pic de Aneto + +Pirineos. El Maldeta visto desde el Pico de Aneto + +Pyrenäen. Der Maladeta vom Pic de Aneto aus gesehen + +Les Pyrenées: La Maladetta, vue du pic d’Aneto + +Pirenei. La Maledetta, vista dal Picco de Aneto] + +[Illustration: Saragossa. El Pilar Cathedral + +Zaragoza, El Pilar + +Zaragoza, Kathedrale El Pilar + +Nôtre-Dame del Pilar (Cathédrale) + +Saragozza, La Cattedrale El Pilar] + +[Illustration: Saragossa. El Pilar + +Zaragoza. El Pilar + +Zaragoza. El Pilar + +Saragosse: Effet de crepiscule et Notre-Dame del Pilar + +Saragozza. El Pilar] + +[Illustration: Aragonese drinking from a wine skin + +Aragones, bebiendo de la bota + +Aragonese, aus dem Weinschlauch trinkend + +Un Aragonais se desaltère en buvant à même au tuyau de conduite du vin + +Tipo d’Aragonese in atto di bere] + +[Illustration: Tarazona] + +[Illustration: Rock formations of Autol + +Formaciónes en las rocas de Autol + +Felsformationen von Autol + +Le tunnel de la route, à Autol + +Formazione di roccie ad Autol] + +[Illustration: Rock formations of Autol + +Formaciónes en las rocas de Autol + +Felsformationen von Autol + +Bizarres formations rocheuses + +Formazione di roccie ad Autol] + +[Illustration: Burgo de Osma] + +[Illustration: Almazán] + +[Illustration: Soria, S. Juan de Duero-Altar] + +[Illustration: S. Esteban de Gormaz + +Going to church + +Camino de la iglesia + +Kirchgang + +La montée de l’église + +Alla Chiesa] + +[Illustration: Rock formation of St. Esteban de Gormáz + +Formación en las rocas de S. Esteban de Gormáz + +Felsformation von S. Esteban de Gormáz + +St. Esteban de Gormáz: Le Rocher + +Formazione di roccie di S. Esteban de Gormàz] + +[Illustration: Pancorbo] + +[Illustration: Pancorbo] + +[Illustration: Pancorbo] + +[Illustration: Burgos + +The Cathedral + +La Catedral + +Kathedrale + +La Cathédrale + +La Cattedrale] + +[Illustration: Burgos + +Interior of the Cathedral + +Interior de la Catedral + +Inneres der Kathedrale + +Intérieur de la cathédrale + +Interno della Cattedrale] + +[Illustration: Burgos, Cartuja Miraflores + +High-Altar of the Church + +Retablo + +Hochaltar der Kirche + +Le maître autel de l’église des dominicains + +L’Altar Maggiore della Cattedrale] + +[Illustration: Burgos, Cartuja Miraflores + +Sepulchre of the infante Alfonso + +Sepulcro del infante Alfonso + +Grabmal des Infanten Alfonso + +Tombeau de l’infant Alphonse dans l’église des dominicains + +Il sepolcro dell’infante Alfonso] + +[Illustration: Burgos + +In the Garden of the Cartuja Miraflores + +En el jardin de la Cartuja Miraflores + +Im Garten der Cartuja Miraflores + +Le jardin du convent des dominicains + +Nel giardino de la Cartuja Miraflores] + +[Illustration: Lonely Chapel + +Cappella solitaria + +Einsame Kapelle + +Une chapelle solitaire + +Capilla solitaria] + +[Illustration: Arranda de Duero + +Doors of St. Maria + +Portada de la Iglesia Sta. Maria + +Portal der Kirche Santa Maria + +Portail de l’église Sainte-Marie + +Ingresso della Chiesa di S. Maria] + +[Illustration: Valladolid + +Facade of St. Pablo (plateresque style) + +Fachada de S. Pablo (estilo plateresco) + +Fassade der Kirche S. Pablo (im plateresken Stil) + +Façade de l’église Saint-Pablo (style en relief) + +Facciata della Chiesa di S. Paolo (Stile plateresco)] + +[Illustration: Valladolid + +Court of St. Gregorio + +Patio de S. Gregorio + +Hof von S. Gregorio + +Cour de Saint-Grégoire + +Il Cortile di S. Gregorio] + +[Illustration: Valladolid + +Gallery of St. Gregorio + +Galeria de S. Gregorio + +Galerie von S. Gregorio + +Galerie de Saint-Grégoire + +La Galleria di S. Gregorio] + +[Illustration: Toro + +The Cathedral-Doorway of the Carmen Chapel (Former entrance of the +Cathedral) + +Catedral-Portada de la Capilla del Carmen (antigua entrada de la +catedral) + +Kathedrale-Portal der Carmenkapelle (ehemals Eingangstor der Kathedrale) + +La cathédrale: portail de la Chapelle des Carmes (ancienne porte +d’entrée de la Cathédrale) + +La Cattedrale. Ingresso alla Cappella del Carmine (Antico ingresso alla +Cattedrale)] + +[Illustration: Zamora + +Sepulchre of Prince D. Juan Vázquez de Acuña in the church of Santa +Magdalena + +Sepulcro del principe D. Juan Vázquez de Acuña en la iglesia Santa +Magdalena + +Grabmal des Prinzen D. Juan Vásquez de Acuña in der Kirche Santa +Magdalena + +Eglise Sainte-Madeleine: Tombeau du prince D. Juan Vásquez d’Acuña + +Sepolcro del Principe D. Juan Vázquez de Acuña nella Chiesa di Santa +Magdalena] + +[Illustration: Salamanca + +The Cathedral + +La Catedral + +Kathedrale + +La Cathédrale + +La Cattedrale] + +[Illustration: Salamanca + +Doorway of the University + +Portada de la Universidad + +Portal der Universität + +Portail de l’Université + +Portale dell’Università] + +[Illustration: Salamanca + +University. Staircase with alto-relievo (the relievos on the upper part +showing knights in a bull-fight) + +Universidad. La escalera (en el relieve superior una corrida de toros en +la Edad Media) + +Universität. Platereske Treppe (an der oberen Treppenwange Darstellung +eines Ritterstierkampfes) + +L’Université: Escalier du style en relief (sur le limon supérieur est +représenté un combat de taureaux au Moyen-âge) + +Università. La scalinata. Nella parte superiore della Scala è +raffigurata una corrida di tori] + +[Illustration: Salamanca + +Inner Doorway in the court of the Escuelas menores (lower school) + +Entrada y patio de las Escuelas menores (hospital del estudio) + +Inneres Portal im Hof der Escuelas menores (niedere Schule) + +Portail intérieur dans la cour des Escuelas menores (écoles mineures) + +Portale interno nel cortile della Scuola inferiore] + +[Illustration: Ciudad Rodrigo + +Door of palace + +Portada de un palacio + +Portal eines Palastes + +Portail d’un palais + +Ingresso d’un palazzo] + +[Illustration: Ciudad Rodrigo + +Market-place + +Plaza mayor + +Marktplatz + +La grande place (Place du marché) + +La Piazza del Mercato] + +[Illustration: Costumes in Candelario + +Traje de Candelario + +Tracht von Candelario + +Femmes de Candelario + +Costumi di Candelario] + +[Illustration: Candelario (Prov. Salamanca)] + +[Illustration: Costumes in La Alberca (Prov. of Salamanca) + +Traje de La Alberca (Prov. de Salamanca) + +Tracht von La Alberca (Prov. Salamanca) + +Une famille de paysans de la Alberca. (Province de Salamanque) + +Costumi di La Alberca (Prov. di Salamanca)] + +[Illustration: A Mule-Ride + +Paseo en mula + +Maultierritt + +En route sur la mule + +Cavalcata sul mulo] + +[Illustration: Festal costume in La Alberca (four-strand gold chain--old +family ornament) + +Traje festivo de La Alberca (las cadenas de oro son una joya de familia) + +Festtracht von La Alberca (vielreihige Goldketten--alter Familienbesitz) + +Femme de la Alberca en costume de cérémonie (Les colliers en or à +plusieurs rangées proviennent d’un très ancien héritage de famille) + +Costume festivo a La Alberca (Piu fili de catene d’oro, eredità di +famiglia)] + +[Illustration: Festal costume in La Alberca + +Traje festivo de la Alberca + +Festtracht von La Alberca + +Femme de la Alberca en costume de fête + +Giovinetta di La Alberca in costume festivo] + +[Illustration: In Mogarraz (Prov. of Salamanca) + +En Mogarraz (Prov. de Salamanca) + +In Mogarraz (Prov. Salamanca) + +A Mogarraz (Province de Salamanque)] + +A Mogarraz (Provincia die Salamanca) + +[Illustration: Hurdanos at the well + +Hurdanos en la fuente + +Hurdesbewohner am Brunnen + +Hurdanos à la fontaine + +Hurdani alla fontana] + +[Illustration: The Monastery of Las Batuecas + +El Monasterio de Las Batuecas + +Kloster Batuecas + +Le Monastère de Las Batuecas + +Il Monastero di Las Batuecas] + +[Illustration: Doorway of the Monastery of Las Batuecas + +Portada del Monasterio de Las Batuecas + +Pforte des Klosters Batuecas + +Porte d’entrée du monastère de Las Batuecas + +Ingresso del Monastero Las Batuecas] + +[Illustration: In the monastery school + +En la escuela del monasterio + +In der Klosterschule + +L’école au monastère + +Nella scuola del Monastero] + +[Illustration: The beauty of the woods (Batuecas) + +Encanto del bosque (Batuecas) + +Waldespracht (Batuecas) + +Dans la forêt (Batuecas) + +Nella foresta (Batuecas)] + +[Illustration: Door-post of the chapel of St. Miguel de Lino near Oviedo +(erected by Ramiro I. about 845) + +Poste de la Capilla S. Miguel de Lino (Oviedo) (edificada por Ramiro I. +por los años de 845) + +Pfosten der Kapelle S. Miguel de Lino bei Oviedo (von Ramiro I. um 845 +erbaut) + +Un pilier de la Chapelle de St. Michel de Lino (Oviedo) (bâtie par +Ramiro Ier en 845) + +Pilastro della Cappella di S. Michele de Lino (Oviedo) (Costruito da +Ramiro I. nell’anno 845)] + +[Illustration: Interior of the Chapel of St. Maria de Naranco near +Oviedo (erected about 845) + +Interior de la Capilla Sta. Maria de Naranco (Oviedo) (edificada por los +años de 845) + +Inneres der Kapelle Santa Maria de Naranco bei Oviedo (um 845 erbaut) + +Intérieur de la chapelle de Ste. Marie de Naranco (Oviedo) (bâtie en +845) + +Interno della Cappella di Santa Maria de Naranco (Oviedo) (Costruita +nell’ anno 845)] + +[Illustration: The Gorge of Hermida in the Picos de Europa (Asturia) + +Desfiladero de Hermida en los Picos de Europa (Asturias) + +Engpaß von Hermida in den Picos de Europa (Asturien) + +Défilé de Hermida à Los Picos de Europa (Asturies) + +Passo di Hermida nel Picos d’Europa (Asturie)] + +[Illustration: Gorge In the Sella Valley (Picos de Europa) + +Desfiladero de Sella (Picos de Europa) + +Im Sellafal (Picos de Europa) + +Gorge de la Sella (Picos de Europa) + +Nella valle del Sella (Pico d’Europa)] + +[Illustration: Asturian Bridge (Picos de Europa) + +Puente asturiano (Picos de Europa) + +Asturianische Brücke (Picos de Europa) + +Un pont des Asturies (Picos de Europa) + +Ponte asturiano (Pico d’Europa)] + +[Illustration: Eucalyptus Avenue near Ribadesella + +Alameda de Eucaliptos (Ribadesella) + +Eukalyptusallee bei Ribadesella + +Allée d’eucalyptus près de Ribadesella + +Viale fiancheggiato di eucalitti a Ribadesella] + +[Illustration: Potes (Picos de Europa)] + +[Illustration: Potes] + +[Illustration: Potes (Picos de Europa)] + +[Illustration: Potes] + +[Illustration: Roman bridge in Cangas de Onis (Asturia) + +Puente romano de Cangas de Onis (Asturias) + +Römische Brücke in Cangas de Onis (Asturien) + +Pont Romain à Cangas de Onis (Asturies) + +Ponte romano a Canga de Onis (Asturie)] + +[Illustration: The Santander sailing boat harbour + +Puerto de veleros de Santander + +Segelschiffhafen von Santander + +Le port des voiliers à Santander + +Porto di velleri a Santander] + +[Illustration: Ondárroa (Vizcaya)] + +[Illustration: Castillo Butrón (Vizcaya)] + +[Illustration: Basque Peasant’s House (Mañaria) + +Casita vasca (Mañaria) + +Baskisches Bauernhaus (Mañaria) + +Maison de paysan basque (Mañaria) + +Casetta Basca (Mañaria)] + +[Illustration: Basque Peasant’s House near Durángo + +Casita vasca cerca de Durángo + +Baskisches Bauernhaus bei Durángo + +Maison de paysan basque aux environs de Durángo + +Casetta di contadini baschi presso Durángo] + +[Illustration: Basque Mill + +Molino vasco + +Baskische Mühle + +Un moulin basque + +Molini basco] + +[Illustration: Typical Basque cart + +Carro vasco tipico + +Typischer Baskenkarren + +Une charrette basque attelée de boeufs + +Carro basco con buol] + +[Illustration: Biscaya, Ancient gravestone in the Colegiata of Cenarruza + +Vizcaya, Lápida sepulcral en la Colegiata de Cenarruza + +Vizcaya, Alter Grabstein in der Colegiata von Cenarruza + +Pierre tombale à la Collegiale de Cenarruza (Biscaye) + +Antica lapide sepolcrale nella Collegiata de Cenarruza] + +[Illustration: Stone Crucifix in Durango (Biscaya) + +Cruz de piedra de Durango (Viscaya) + +Steinkreuz in Durango (Vizcaya) + +Le Calvaire de Durango (Biscaye) + +Croce di pietra a Durango (Viscaya)] + +[Illustration: Entrance to the Mallona Cemetery (Bilbao) + +Entrada del cementerio de Mallona (Bilbao) + +Friedhofsaufgang Mallona (Bilbao) + +Entrée du cimetière de Mallona (Bilbao) + +Ingresso al cimitero di Mallona (Bilbao)] + +[Illustration: Cemetery with stone sepulchres near Elorrio (Biscaya) + +Sepulcros de piedra cerca de Elorria (Vizcaya) + +Steinkistenfriedhof bei Elorrio (Vizcaya) + +Sépulcres de pierre aux environs d’Elorria (Biscaye) + +Sepolcri di pietra cava presso Elorrio (Vizcaya)] + +[Illustration: San Sebastian + +View from Monte Ulla + +Visto desde el Monte Ulla + +Vom Mont Ulla gesehen + +Vue prise du Mont Ulla + +Veduta della città del Monte Ulla] + +[Illustration: San Sebastian + +View from Monte Igueldo + +Visto desde el Monte Igueldo + +Vom Monte Igueldo gesehen + +Vue prise du Mont Igueldo + +Veduta della città dal Monte Igueldo] + +[Illustration: San Sebastian + +Eventide + +Al anochecer + +Abendstimmung + +Effet de crépuscule à Saint-Sébastien + +Tramonto] + +[Illustration: San Sebastian. Harbour. Evening + +Puerto de San Sebastian. Crepusculo + +San Sebastian. Abend im Hafen + +Le port de Saint-Sebastien Effet de crépuscule + +Porto di San Sebastiano. Crepuscolo] + +[Illustration: San Sebastian + +The Harbour + +El puerto + +Hafen + +Le port de Saint Sébastien + +San Sebastiano. Il Porto] + +[Illustration: Entrance to the harbour of Pasages + +Entrada del puerto de Pasages (Guipuzcoa) + +Einfahrt in den Hafen von Pasages (Guipuzcoa) + +Entrée du port de Pasages (Guipuzcoa) + +Stretto d’accesso al porto di Pasages (Guipuzcoa)] + +[Illustration: Pasages] + +[Illustration: Pasages] + +[Illustration: Pasages] + +[Illustration: Pasages] + +[Illustration: Bull-fight in the Market-Place of Pasages + +Novillada en la plaza mayor de Pasages + +Stierkampf auf dem Marktplatz von Pasages + +Un combat de taureaux sur la grande place à Pasages + +Corrida sulla piazza del mercato di Pasages] + +[Illustration: Boys playing at bull-fighting + +Muchachos jugando à los toros + +Knaben, Stierkampf spielend + +Un jeu d’enfant bien espagnol + +Bambini che giuocano alla Corrida] + +[Illustration: Fuenterabia + +Court in Charles Vth’s Palace + +Patio en el Palacio Carlos V. + +Hof im Palast Karls V. + +Une cour du palais de Charles-Quint + +Cortile del Palazzo Carlo V.] + +[Illustration: Ruins among the flowers + +Ruinas entre flores + +Ruinen in Margariten + +Ruines et fleurs + +Margariten. Rovine] + +[Illustration: Santiago de Campostela + +The Cathedral + +La Catedral + +Kathedrale + +La Cathédrale + +La Cattedrale] + +[Illustration: In the Bay of Pontevedra (Galicia) + +En la ria de Pontevedra (Galicia) + +In der Bucht von Pontevedra (Galicien) + +La baie de Pontevedra (Galice) + +Nel seno di Pontevedra (Galizia)] + +[Illustration: The waves at play + +Juego de las olas + +Spiel der Wellen + +Echappée sur la mer + +Giuoco delle onde] + +[Illustration: Vigo Harbour (Galicia) + +Puerto de Vigo (Galicia) + +Hafen von Vigo (Galicien) + +Le port de Vigo (Galice) + +Porto di Vico (Galizia)] + +[Illustration: Eventide at sea (Exit of Pasages) + +Penumbra de la tarde en el mar (Salida de Pasages) + +Abendfeier auf dem Meere (Ausfahrt von Pasages) + +Effet de soir sur la mer à la sortie de Pasages + +Tramonto sul mare (Uscita del porto di Pasages)] + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[A] Vide pictures 1-22, 25. Bracketed figures in the text refer to the +respective views. + +[B] Cordova was taken soon after the battle of Jerez (711). +Abd-ur-rahman I., the founder of the Omaijaden dynasty began to build +the mosque in 785. The columns (their number is stated at between 1400 +and 1500) were collected from buildings in all countries: Byzantium, +Rome, Carthage, Nîmes, Narbonne, etc.; hence their variety of form and +material (marble, porphyry, jasper, alabaster). In 1235 Cordova was +taken by the Christians. The erection of the choir was begun in 1523. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PICTURESQUE SPAIN *** + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, so +the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright royalties. +Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this +license, apply to copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and +trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be +used if you charge for an eBook, except by following the terms of the +trademark license, including paying royalties for use of the Project +Gutenberg trademark. 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