diff options
| author | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-01-23 15:41:14 -0800 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-01-23 15:41:14 -0800 |
| commit | c1b0750b7db82fb88b980722b51767650dcafbae (patch) | |
| tree | 9a74401e0117a3a3f21a21fc7f86ee4dd84083d4 /old/64247-0.txt | |
| parent | c124408fd696b4c6000d6b4b29b27dc39f222215 (diff) | |
Diffstat (limited to 'old/64247-0.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | old/64247-0.txt | 11263 |
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 11263 deletions
diff --git a/old/64247-0.txt b/old/64247-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index bd62487..0000000 --- a/old/64247-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11263 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 2 of 3), by -Alexander Burnes - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 2 of 3) - Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, - and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the - Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; - Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in - the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833 - -Author: Alexander Burnes - -Release Date: January 09, 2021 [eBook #64247] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Henry Flower and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at - https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - generously made available by The Internet Archive/Canadian - Libraries) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS INTO BOKHARA (VOLUME 2 OF -3) *** - - - - -Transcriber's Note - - -Sidenotes are indicated by ~swung dashes~. - -Superscript is indicated by caret signs, e.g. ALEX^R. - - - - - TRAVELS - INTO - BOKHARA; - _&c. &c._ - - VOL. II. - - - - - LONDON: - Printed by A. SPOTTISWOODE, - New-Street-Square. - - - - - TRAVELS - INTO - BOKHARA; - - BEING THE ACCOUNT OF - A JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO CABOOL, TARTARY, - AND PERSIA; - - ALSO, NARRATIVE OF - A VOYAGE ON THE INDUS, - FROM THE SEA TO LAHORE, - WITH PRESENTS FROM THE KING OF GREAT BRITAIN; - PERFORMED UNDER THE ORDERS OF THE SUPREME GOVERNMENT - OF INDIA, IN THE YEARS 1831, 1832, AND 1833. - - BY - LIEUT. ALEX^R BURNES, F.R.S. - - OF THE EAST INDIA COMPANY’S SERVICE; - AS^T POLITICAL RESIDENT IN CUTCH, AND LATE ON A MISSION TO - THE COURT OF LAHORE. - - ----“Per syrtes iter æstuosas, - ... _per inhospitalem - Caucasum, vel quæ loca fabulosus - Lambit Hydaspes_.” - HOR. - - IN THREE VOLUMES. - - VOL. II. - - LONDON: - JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. - - MDCCCXXXIV. - - - - -CONTENTS - -OF - -THE SECOND VOLUME. - - - CHAPTER XII. - - JOURNEY IN THE DESERT OF THE TOORKMUNS. - - Page - - Journey to the Oxus.--Sand Hills.--Freezing of the - Oxus.--Meanness of native Traders.--The Oxus.--Oxus of - Alexander’s Historians.--Charjooee: its Bazar.--The - Desert.--Slaves.--The Caravan.--Well of Balghooee.--Dangers - of the Desert.--Seerab.--Camel’s Milk--An eastern - Caravan.--Oochghooee and wandering Toorkmuns.--Ruins of - Castles.--Moorghab.--Remarks on the Desert.--A Toorkmun - Camp.--Orgunje Officers.--Precarious Situation 1-34 - - - CHAP. XIII. - - CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY IN THE TOORKMUN DESERT. - - River of Merve.--Amusements.--Knights and Heroines of - Merve.--Alarm.--Toorkmuns: their Laws of Plunder.--Training of - the Horses.--Reflections.--Meeting of the Caravan.--Claims - against us.--Continuation of the Desert.--Whirlwinds.--The - High Lands of Persia.--Mirage.--Plants of the - Desert.--Allamans.--Unsuccessful Party.--Arrival - at Shurukhs.--Detention.--Alarms.--Dissipation of - them.--Toorkmun Customs.--Fortitude of a Slave.--Toorkmun - Song.--Toorkmun House.--Mode of Feasting.--Success of - the Allamans.--Inconveniences.--Mad Camel.--Departure - from Shurukhs.--Increased Caravan.--Entrance - into Persia.--Moozderan or Durbund.--Approach to - Meshid.--Tarantulla.--Adventure.--Ghoozkan Slaves.--Troubled - Country 35-75 - - - CHAP. XIV. - - KHORASAN. - - Arrival in Meshid.--Interview with Khoosrou Meerza.--Meshid - described.--Shrine of Imam Ruza.--Grave of Nadir - Shah.--Illumination.--Departure from Meshid.--Koochan.--Camp - of the Prince.--European Officers.--Abbas Meerza.--Interview.-- - Acquaintances.---Future Plans.--Separation from Dr. Gerard 76-99 - - - CHAP. XV. - - JOURNEY AMONG THE TOORKMUNS OF THE CASPIAN. - - Departure from Koochan.--Atruck River.--Boojnoord.--Toorkmun - Discipline.--Travelling in Khorasan.--Tribe of - Gireilee.--Toorkmun Acquaintance.--Running down - Partridges.--Toorkmun Bard.--Goklan Toorkmuns.--Their - Customs.---Toorkmuns of the Caspian.--Toorkmun - Patriarch.--Noble Scenery.--Toorkmun national - Songs.--Quit the Country of the Toorkmuns.--Arrival - at Astrabad.--Plague.--Arrival on the Caspian.--Adventures.-- - Gardens of Ushruff.--Fortunate Escape.--The Plague.--Quit the - Caspian.--Mazenderan.--Peasantry 100-127 - - - CHAP. XVI. - - JOURNEY THROUGH PERSIA.--CONCLUSION OF THE NARRATIVE. - - Quit Mazenderan.--Pass of Gudook.--Gudook the “Pylæ - Caspiæ.”--Feerozkoh.--Cure for the Taste of Quinine.--A - Koord.--Vexations of a Traveller.--Arrival at - Tehran.--Presentation to the Shah.--Return to India.--Route to - the Coast.--Quit Persia.--Conclusion 128-142 - - - - - BOOK I. - - GENERAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR ON PART OF CENTRAL ASIA. - - Notice regarding the Map of Central Asia 147 - - - CHAPTER I. - - AN ACCOUNT OF THE KINGDOM OF BOKHARA. - - Limits and Extent.--Natural and political Divisions.--Physical - Geography: Face of the Country.--Climate and Phenomena.-- - Rivers.--Mountains.--Mineral Productions.--Vegetable.--Necessaries - of Life.--Fruits and Wines.--Domestic Animals.--Wild Animals.-- - Birds.--Silk Worms.--Diseases: Guinea Worm.--Cities and - Towns.--Population of the Kingdom 153-185 - - - CHAP. II. - - THE RIVER OXUS, OR AMOO; WITH SOME NOTICE OF THE SEA OF ARAL. - - Source and Course of the Oxus.--Sea of Aral.--Capabilities of - the Oxus.--Depth, Current, and Slope.--Inundation.--Freezing.-- - Craft on the Oxus.--Mode of navigating them.--Wood of the - Oxus.--Political and commercial Advantages of the River 186-199 - - - CHAP. III. - - ON THE VALLEY OF THE OXUS, ETC. - - Sketch of the Countries upon it.--Koondooz.--Budukhshan.--Ruby - Mines.--Lapis Lazuli.--Mountain Districts North of - Budukhshan.--Their Language.--Pamere.--Singular - Animal, the Rass.--Chitral.--Gilgit.--Iskardo.--Their - Language.--Kaffirs.--Their Descent from Alexander - questioned.--Their Customs 200-213 - - - CHAP. IV. - - ON THE REPUTED DESCENDANTS ALEXANDER THE GREAT. - - Traditions regarding them.--Actual Condition of these reputed - Descendants.--Examination of their Claims.--Conjectures 214-219 - - - CHAP. V. - - ON THE SOURCES OF THE INDUS. - - Interest attached to the Subject.--Received Opinions.--Their - Error.--Description of the Shyook, the great Head of the - Indus.--The Western Branch.--Country enclosed by both.--Name of - Cashgar misapplied.--Errors pointed out 220-226 - - - CHAP. VI. - - NOTICE OF YARKUND, AND ITS INTERCOURSE WITH PEKIN, BOKHARA, AND - TIBET. - - Chinese Province of Yarkund.--Sketch of its History.--Mode of - governing it by the Chinese.--Singular Mode of communicating - with Pekin.--Inhabitants.--Kalmuks, curious Customs.--Anecdote - of the Chinese Police.--Country between Yarkund and - Tibet.--Communications with Bokhara.--Notice of Kokan 227-237 - - - CHAP. VII. - - ON THE MOUNTAINS OF HINDOO KOOSH. - - Range so called.--Height.--General Features.--Productions.-- - Formation of the Rocks.--True Mountain of Hindoo Koosh 238-248 - - - CHAP. VIII. - - TOORKMANIA, OR THE COUNTRY OF THE TOORKMUNS. - - Toorkmania: Country so called.--Nature of it and the Toorkmuns.-- - Origin of the Toorkmuns.--Tribes.--Language.--Account of Merve.-- - General Characteristics of the People of Toorkmania 249-261 - - - CHAP. IX. - - ON THE INROADS OF THE TATARS, WITH A NOTICE OF THE TRIBES IN - TOORKISTAN. - - Invasions of the Tatars sketched.--Sources from whence they - sprung, investigated.--Exaggerated Numbers.--Probabilities of - Success in modern Times.--Only two great tribes, Toorks and - Mundshoors.--Appearance of Tatars.--Physiognomy.--Chaghtye - and Uzbeks.--Kalmuks.--Kuzzaks and Kirgizzes.--Citizens of - Toorkistan.--Tatar and Magi Religion.--Concluding Observations 262-270 - - - CHAP. X. - - ON THE HORSES OF TOORKISTAN. - - Toorkmun Horse.--Tradition of its Lineage.--Mode of - Feeding.--Varieties of the Toorkmun Horse.--Extent of the - Trade.--Great Characteristics of this noble Animal 271-277 - - - - - BOOK II. - - AN HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE COUNTRIES BETWEEN INDIA AND THE - CASPIAN SEA. - - - CHAPTER I. - - THE PUNJAB. - - Limits of Runjeet Sing’s Power.--Its Rise.--State of the - Government.--Its Decline.--Influence of the Chiefs.--The - People.--Military Strength of the Country.--Revenues and - Resources.--Foreign Policy.--General Character of the - Government.--Its probable Termination 279-298 - - - CHAP. II. - - HISTORICAL SKETCH OF EVENTS IN AFGHANISTAN, SINCE THE YEAR 1809. - - Introductory Remarks.--Shah Shooja deposed.--Elevation of - his Brother Mahmood.--Capture of Cashmere.--League with the - Seiks.--Loss of Attok.--Rupture with them.--Battle with the - Persians.--Seizure of the Vizier.--His cruel Death.--Fall - of Mahmood.--Recall of Shooja.--High-mindedness of his - Queen.--Shooja’s Escape.--Elevation of his Brother Eyoob.--Loss - of Cashmere.--Great Progress of the Seiks.--Total Dismemberment - of the Cabool Monarchy 299-318 - - - CHAP. III. - - CHIEFSHIP OF PESHAWUR. - - Extent of it.--Military and political Strength.--Political - Relations.--Its Chief: his Government.--Productions.--Feasible - Improvements.--Its Minerals.--Coal, &c.--Great Value of the - Article 319-328 - - - CHAP. IV. - - CHIEFSHIP OF CABOOL. - - Its Boundaries.--Character of Dost Mahommed Khan.--His - Relations.--Cabool: its Supplies 329-336 - - - CHAP. V. - - ON THE AFFAIRS OF WESTERN AFGHANISTAN. - - Chiefs of Candahar and Herat.--Their Government 337-340 - - - CHAP. VI. - - SUMMARY ON THE AFFAIRS OF CABOOL. - - Remarks on the Overthrow of the Dynasty.--Improbabilities of its - Restoration.--Relative Power of Cabool and Persia 341-345 - - - CHAP. VII. - - ON THE POWER OF KOONDOOZ. - - Extent of the Chiefship.--History of its Chief, Moorad Beg: his - Policy and Power.--Revenues and Administration.--His Character 346-354 - - - CHAP. VIII. - - SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF BOKHARA. - - Early History.--From the Age of Jengis Khan to that of the - Uzbeks.--Reign of Nadir Shah.--King Hyder and the present Ruler 355-361 - - - CHAP. IX. - - ON THE POLITICAL AND MILITARY POWER OF BOKHARA. - - Importance of the Kingdom.--Power and Character of - the King,--Koosh Begee, or Vizier.--Supremacy of the - Church.--Administration.--Police.--Revenues.--Military Force and - Spirit of the Uzbeks.--Detail of the Troops.--Foreign Policy of - Bokhara: with China--Cabool--Persia--Turkey.--Connexion with - Russia 362-381 - - - CHAP. X. - - ON THE STATE OF KHIVA, OR ORGUNJE. - - Limits.--Khiva: its Rise--Power and military - Strength.--Predatory Habits of the Khivans.--Affairs of Khiva - and Russia 382-388 - - - CHAP. XI. - - ON THE N.E. FRONTIERS OF PERSIA.--THE KOORDS AND TOORKMUNS. - - Power of Persia over these Tribes.--Koord and other - Chiefs.--Weakness of the Persian Frontier 389-393 - - - - - BOOK III. - - ON THE COMMERCE OF CENTRAL ASIA. - - - CHAPTER I. - - ON THE COMMERCIAL RELATIONS OF THE PUNJAB, AND THE ADVANTAGES OF - OPENING THE INDUS. - - Favourable Position of the Punjab for Trade.--Extent and - Variety of its Productions--Shawls of Cashmere.--Extent of the - Manufacture.--Silks.--Cottons.--Minerals.--Vegetables.-- - Advantages of opening the Indus to the Punjab Trade.--Effects - of it on the Towns of the Indus.--Articles brought into Demand - by it.--Cotton.--Chintses.--Jewellery, Cutlery, &c.--Depôt for - a Water Commerce.--Political Condition of the Country 395-412 - - - CHAP. II. - - ON THE COMMERCE OF CABOOL. - - Routes from India on Cabool.--Carriers of the Trade.-- - Imports.--Disposition of the Cabool Chiefs towards their - Extension.--Remarks 413-421 - - - CHAP. III. - - ON THE COMMERCE AND FOREIGN COMMUNICATIONS OF BOKHARA AND - CENTRAL ASIA. - - Progress of Commerce between Europe and Asia.--Success of the - Russians.--British Indian Trade.--Alteration of the Routes of - Commerce.--Negotiations of Russia.--Exports from India and - Russia to Bokhara.--Prices of Merchandize.--Chintses.--White - Goods.--Broad Cloth.--Velvets.--Nankeens. Cochineal.--Indian - Goods.--Muslins.--Shawls.--Indigo.--Sugar.--Trade with China.-- - Exports of Bokhara.--Silk.--Cotton.--Wool.--Skins.--Duties on - Trade.--Abuses in the British Custom House.--General - Review.--Russian and British Trade compared.--Opening for - British Exports 422-444 - - - CHAP. IV. - - NOTICE ON THE TRADE OF PERSIA. - - State of Commerce in Persia.--Routes, and their relative - Advantages.--Description of Goods.--Hints for improving the - Trade.--Singular Instance of commercial Enterprise related 445-454 - - * * * * * - - Observations on Lieutenant Burnes’s Collection of Bactrian and - other Coins, by Mr. H. H. Wilson, Sanscrit Professor at Oxford; - and Mr. James Prinsep, F.R.S., Secretary of the Asiatic Society - of Bengal 457 - - - - -NARRATIVE. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -JOURNEY IN THE DESERT OF THE TOORKMUNS. - - -~Journey to the Oxus.~ - -~Sand hills.~ - -At midday, on the 16th of August, we commenced our march on the Oxus, -which was about twenty-seven miles distant. After journeying for ten -miles, we halted in the evening at a small village, and set out at -midnight for the river, under a bright moon. For a great part of the -night our route led us among vast fields of soft sand, formed into -ridges which exactly resembled, in colour and appearance, those on the -verge of the ocean. The belt of these sand-hills, which lie between -Bokhara and the Oxus, varies in breadth from twelve to fifteen miles. -They were utterly destitute of vegetation. There was a remarkable -uniformity in their formation; the whole of them preserved the shape -and form of a horse-shoe, the outer rim presenting itself to the north, -the direction from which the winds of this country blow. On this side -the mounds sloped, while the interior of the figure was invariably -precipitous; but loose sand will ever take its position from the -prevailing winds. None of the hills exceeded the height of fifteen or -twenty feet, and they all rested on a hard base. The wind was high, -and the particles of sand moved from one mound to another, wheeling -in the eddy or interior of the semicircle, and having now and then, -particularly under the rays of the sun, much the look of water; an -appearance, I imagine, which has given rise to the opinion of moving -sands in a desert. The thermometer, which had risen to 100°, fell at -night to 70° among the sand-hills; and I have always observed that the -vicissitudes of cold and heat are greatest among sand. About an hour -after the sun had risen, we exchanged this dreary route for verdant -fields, irrigated by the Oxus; and, after winding among them for about -four miles, encamped on the verge of the river, where we hid ourselves -from the sun’s rays under the panniers of our camels. - -~Freezing of the Oxus.~ - -We had come down upon the Oxus at Betik, which is opposite to -Charjooee, and one of the greatest ferries between Persia and -Toorkistan. There was, therefore, every facility for crossing, and the -beasts and baggage were thrown into boats, and soon transported to -the opposite bank. The farmer of the customs killed his sheep, and -invited most of the merchants to partake of his fare. He enquired very -particularly regarding us, and requested a sight of our passport. He -then waited on us in person with a couple of melons and some cakes, -which we sat down and enjoyed along with him and his party on the -banks of the river, and, I believe, mutually amused each other. This -individual mentioned, in the course of conversation, that the Oxus had -been last year frozen over from shore to shore, and that the caravans -passed it on the ice. This is rather an unfrequent occurrence, and gave -rise to a grave point of discussion and decision for the Mahommedan -doctors. The farmer had agreed to pay 100 tillas a month, as the rent -of his ferry; but since the river was passable on the ice, his boats -were useless, and he lost by the farm. He proceeded to Bokhara, and -urged his case to the king, requesting at the same time his royal -sanction to levy a tax on the travellers. “That is impossible,” said -his majesty and his advisers, “unless the farmer consents to become -answerable for the blood-money of any person who may fall through the -ice and perish.” The learned reply of the king is applauded for its -wisdom, and met with the approbation of every person but the farmer -himself, who had to pay the full amount of his contract. I will -observe, first, that, as the contractor is not answerable for the -lives of passengers in his boat, he could not be answerable for them -on the ice. Secondly, that, since he contracted with the king for the -twelve months, he should either have been relieved from payment during -the time of the freezing of the river, or, at all events, allowed -to levy a toll on the passengers. The law, however, is fruitful of -interpretation in every country; and the King of Bokhara, while he -protected his treasury from loss, had likewise the credit of appearing -solicitous about the lives of the faithful. - -~Meanness of native traders.~ - -As we were preparing to embark, I had an example of the meanness of -native traders, of which I have had before and since many concurring -proofs. Our boat had no horses to drag it across, and it was proposed -that we should hire them; to which I gave a ready assent, saying, that -we should be happy to contribute our share of the expense. The reply -was unsatisfactory, since they wished we should bear it all; but this -was peremptorily refused, and we embarked without the horses, though -the share of each person would not have amounted to a quarter of a -rupee, and one of the merchants possessed goods that were valued at -3000 tillas. From terror, they were not so sparing of the name of -the Deity, while on the water, as, on land, they had been of their -money; but these invocations cost them nothing, and the horses would -have reduced their profits. The merchants of this country have none -of the liberal notions of the same class of people in Europe; and I -am disposed to attribute it to their superintending in person the -sale of their goods, and witnessing every outlay which is incurred on -their account. We crossed the Oxus in safety, without horses; and I -did not regret the opportunity that had presented itself; to show our -fellow-voyagers that we were as poor in our purses as in our dress and -condition. One individual, a Persian, actually sickened at the thought -of crossing the Jihoon without horses, and transferred himself to -another boat with oars, where he gave the sailors the bribe of a rupee -to row him speedily across. He arrived, with a pale face, to receive -our congratulations on his _bravery_; but this individual turned out, -in the end, one of our best friends. - -~The Oxus.~ - -We found the stream of the Oxus with a breadth of 650 yards, and in -some places 25 and 29 feet deep; so that it was both narrower and -deeper than at the point at which we had before crossed it. Its banks -were much depressed, and completely overgrown with a rank weed, which -chokes the aqueducts. Some fish of an enormous size, weighing from -five to six hundred pounds, are procured in this river, a kind of -dog-fish, which are used as food by the Uzbeks. Across the Oxus, we -found ourselves about six miles distant from the town of Charjooee, -which was in sight. For the first time, this noble river was turned to -the purposes of navigation, since there is a commercial communication -kept up, by means of it, between that place and Orgunje. - -~Oxus of Alexander’s historians.~ - -The Oxus is particularly mentioned under that name by the historians of -Alexander, though it appears to have been ever unknown by such a title -to the Asiatics, who call it Jihoon and Amoo. We learn from the ancient -authors, that Alexander approached this river from Bactra, or Balkh, -by a country “which exhaled the power of a summer sun, and torrefied -the sands.” The distance between Bactra and the river is even correctly -stated at 400 stadia, and we have no fables regarding the breadth of -the river. Arrian, who follows Aristobulus, tells us that the Oxus was -six furlongs broad, and in that part of its course we have described it -with a magnitude of 828 yards. The very topography of the river’s bank -may, I almost think, be traced in Curtius; for there are low and peaked -hillocks near that pass of the Oxus; and we are told that Alexander -caused fires to be lit on the high ground, “that the distressed in the -rear might perceive they were not far from camp.” There are no hillocks -below Kilef. Curtius tells us that the Oxus was a muddy river, that -bore much slime along with it; and I found that one fortieth of the -stream is clay suspended in the water. What an approximation to the -name of Maricanda in the modern city of Samarcand. It is described as -being seventy stadia in circumference; and we have seen that modern -Bokhara exceeds eight English miles, or about sixty-four of the Grecian -stadia. What an outline have we not of the character of these nations -in remote ages. “They exercised robbery, and lived by spoil.” These are -the literal words of the historian; and they explain to us the genuine -manners of the people, be they Hun, Scythian, Goth, Tatar, Toork, or -Toorkmun. Lower down the river, we have the name of the country ruled -by Pharsamanes, which is called Chorasmi, and in which the kingdom of -Kharasm, subverted by Jengis, is easily recognised. Higher up, we have -a description of Parætacæ, which was a mountainous region, as we learn -from the mention of fir trees, and the formidable “rock of Chorienes.” -This is the hill country of Karatageen, as we discover from the -similarity of its name and position. In Zeriaspes, we have, I think, -Shuhr Subz; and I could continue to multiply the coincidences, but I -doubt if the subject would excite general interest. - -~Charjooee:~ - -~its bazar.~ - -In the morning we moved up to Charjooee, which in all our maps is -erroneously set down on the northern bank of the Oxus. The place is -governed by a Kalmuk, and is pleasantly situated on the verge of -culture and desolation, with a pretty fort that crowns a hillock, and -overlooks the town. It is said to have resisted the arms of Timour; -but its present condition would not impress one with any great -notions of its strength, or that conqueror’s power. The people of -Charjooee do not exceed 4000 or 5000 souls; but a great portion of -its population wander up and down the Oxus during the hot months. We -halted here for four days, since it was the last inhabited spot of -civilisation between Bokhara and Persia. The market day, or bazar, -occurred during our stay; and I proceeded along with Ernuzzar, the -Toorkmun, to see the assemblage, in which I passed quite unnoticed. -I sauntered through the bazar, much more amused with the people than -the wares they were selling, which were in every respect poor. There -were knives, saddles and bridles, cloth, and horsecloths, of native -manufacture: but the only articles of European fabric were a few beads, -and chintz scullcaps, which latter were purchased very readily. There -were also lanterns, ewers, and copper pots, in considerable number; -and the venders of many of these retailed their goods _on horseback_, -and all the purchasers were mounted. No person ever attends the bazar -in Toorkistan but on horseback; and on the present occasion there was -not a female to be seen, veiled or unveiled. Most of the people were -Toorkmuns of the Oxus, dressed in high sheepskin caps, like the natives -of Orgunje. There were about 2000 or 3000 people in the bazar; but -there was very little bustle and confusion, though there was much both -of buying and selling. The custom of having market days is uncommon in -India and Cabool, but of universal use in Toorkistan: it perhaps gives -a stimulus to trade, and is most convenient; since all the people of -the country, for miles round, assemble on the occasion. Every person -seems to think it incumbent upon him to be present. The different -articles are arranged in separate parts of the bazar, with as much -regularity as in Bokhara itself: here you may buy grain, there fruit: -here is meat, there is cloth, &c. The streets are so narrow, that the -bazar is generally held at one end of the country towns; and such -was the case at Charjooee: so that fruit, grain, or any thing which -requires to be displayed, is spread out on the ground. The bazar lasts -from eleven to four o’clock, which is the hottest time of the day. - -~The desert.~ - -The wants of all had been supplied during our stay at Charjooee; -every one was ready to move, and every skin, pot, and pitcher was -filled to the brim, from the canals of the Oxus. At noon on the 22d we -commenced our march, and, before we had travelled a distance of two -miles, entered upon the great desert which separates the kingdoms of -Iran and Tooran. The mode of travelling in Toorkistan is to start at -midday, and march till sunset; and, after a couple of hours’ rest and -the indispensable cup of tea, to resume the task, and advance to the -stage, which is usually reached at daylight. We made the usual evening -halt, and then travelled till sunrise, when we reached Karoul, a well -of brackish water, thirty feet under ground, and lined with branches -of trees, at which we halted, a distance of twenty-two miles from -Charjooee. The whole tract presented to our view was a dreary waste of -sand-hills, but by no means so destitute of vegetation and underwood as -on the northern bank of the Oxus. They, however, occurred in the same -succession and formation as have been there described: they were quite -soft, but the sand was not dusty, and the camels slid down them with -their burthens. Here and there we came upon a sheet of indurated clay, -as if the sand-hills here also rested on a base of that kind. In these -hollows, and on the brow of the hills, we found a shrub like tamarisk, -called “kasura,” also a kind of grass, or _bent_, called “salun.” There -were likewise two thorny shrubs, called “kuzzak” and “karaghan”[1], -neither of them the common camel thorn, but on which the camels -delighted to browse. There was no water throughout the whole march, -and no signs of inhabitants but a ruined fort, that had once served as -a look-out from the Oxus. The Indian deserts of Jaysulmeer and Parkur -sank into insignificance before this vast ocean of sand. No sight is -more imposing than a desert; and the eye rests with a deep interest on -the long line of camels, as it winds its crooked course through the -frightful waste. The simile of a ship in the ocean and a camel in the -desert may be hackneyed, but it is just. The objects animate impart a -strong interest to inanimate nature. - -~Slaves.~ - -In the middle of our march through the desert, we met seven unfortunate -Persians, who had been captured by the Toorkmuns, and were now on -their road to Bokhara, where they would be sold. Five of them were -chained together, and trod their way through the deep sand. There was -a general shout of compassion, as the caravan passed these miserable -beings; and the sympathy did not fail to affect the poor creatures -themselves. They cried, and gave a longing look, as the last camel of -the caravan passed to their dear native country. The camel on which I -rode happened to be in the rear, and I stayed to hear their tale of -woe. They had been seized by the Toorkmuns at Ghaeen, near Meshid, a -few weeks before, when the culture of their fields had led them beyond -the threshold of their homes. They were weary and thirsty, and I gave -them all I could,--a single melon; a civility, little as it was, which -was received with gratitude. What a frightful notion must not these -unfortunate beings have entertained of the country they were entering, -after their travels in such a desert. The Toorkmuns evince but little -compassion for their Persian slaves; and what other treatment is to be -expected from men who pass their lives in selling human beings. They -give them but a scanty supply of food and water, that they may waste -their strength, and prevent their escape; but beyond this the Toorkmun -inflicts no other ills. The tales which have been circulated of their -cutting the sinew of the heel, and of their passing a cord round the -collar bone, are at variance with truth, since these blemishes would -diminish the value of the slave. These unfortunate captives suffer a -much heavier calamity,--they lose their liberty. - -~The caravan.~ - -As we reached our halting-ground in the morning, we had now an -opportunity of observing the number and composition of the caravan. -There were upwards of eighty camels, and about 150 persons, several of -them men of the first respectability, who accompanied their merchandise -to the markets of Persia. Some travelled in panniers placed on camels; -others rode, some on horses, many on donkeys; but every person, even -the meanest, had some kind of conveyance. The horsemen preceded the -camels; and, stretching themselves out on the sand with their bridles -in their grasp, stole a few moments’ sleep, till the caravan overtook -them. The scene was altogether curious and novel. Among the party there -were eight or ten Persians, who had passed many years of slavery in -Toorkistan, and, after purchasing their liberty, were now returning by -stealth to their homes. These people were delighted with our enquiries; -and, in the journey, many of them became attached to us. They would -bring melons for us; kill a sheep; draw water; and were always at -hand. Some of them had been no less than three times captured, and -as often had they redeemed themselves; for the Uzbeks are readily -imposed upon and cheated by their slaves, who make money in service. -I conversed with several of them; and it was equally painful to hear -their past sufferings and present anxiety. Their influential countrymen -in the caravan had put several of them in charge of a portion of their -merchandise, that they might be the less noticed, and considered rather -as traders than emancipated slaves; for a Persian merchant in a caravan -is generally safe. In spite of all this arrangement, some hard-hearted -wretches had told tales on the banks of the Oxus: one individual had -been forced to return to Bokhara; and some of the others had crossed -with difficulty. One single hint to the people of Orgunje would, in -all probability, yet arrest their further progress; but every one had -been well tutored. What must be the feelings of some of these men as -they approach Persia. One of them told me that he had had a wife and -a numerous family when sold into captivity, twenty-two years before; -of whom he had not heard any account since that period. If any of them -are alive, the parent will show himself among them as an apparition -from the tomb. Another of these unfortunate individuals had a tale -which was not less touching. He had been seized along with his family, -and, indeed, all the inhabitants of his village, near Toorshish; and -delivered up, by one of the Khorasan chiefs, to the Toorkmuns, who -drove, on this occasion, upwards of a hundred people to Bokhara. -At Maimunu, which is on the road, they were disposed of to other -Toorkmuns, and at Bokhara finally sold. There this unfortunate man saw -his wife sold to one, his daughter and son to others, and himself to a -different person. A humane man, hearing of his misfortunes, released -him, since he believed it good in the sight of God; and the poor fellow -lurked in Bokhara, like a bird near its nest that is robbed, in hopes -of relieving the other members of his family. He had failed, and was -now travelling into his own country, to excite the compassion and pity -of those who had known him in his prosperity. It would harrow up a -man’s heart, to listen to all the tales of the woe which is inflicted -upon mankind by these plundering Toorkmuns. - -~Well of Balghooee.~ - -In marching from Karoul, we quitted the high road of the caravans, -which leads to Merve, and proceeded westward into the desert, by a way -that is altogether unfrequented. We had no option in the selection of -such a route, since the officer who commands the Orgunje army sent a -messenger to direct our march upon his camp. We were thus thrown into -the jaws of the lion, but were helpless; and the merchants appeared to -regret it more than ourselves. After the usual halt, we reached the -well of Balghooee twenty-four miles distant, on the morning of the 23d. -It was a small and single well, about four feet in diameter, as deep -as that at Karoul; and the Toorkmuns only discovered it after a zigzag -search of some hours. We soon emptied it (for the water was good), and -had to wait a night till it again filled. - -~The desert.~ - -In this march the desert was overgrown with brushwood, but the tract -was entirely destitute of water; and a few rats, lizards, and beetles, -with here and there a solitary bird, were its only inhabitants. Some -of the sand-hills now attained the height of sixty feet: but at that -elevation they are invariably bare of all vegetation; which, I suppose, -cannot thrive in such an exposed situation. The highest hills were -about a distance of eight miles from the halting-place, and named -“sheer i shootr,” or “the camel’s milk,” from some allusion to that -useful animal. There was nothing peculiar in the colour of the sand, -which was quartzose. There was no turf, grass, or creeping plants; -every shrub grew separately; and the grass, which I before mentioned, -was only to be found in clumps. The heat of the sand rose to 150°: and -that of the atmosphere exceeded 100°, but the wind blew steadily; nor -do I believe it would be possible to traverse this tract in summer, -if it ceased to blow: the steady manner in which it comes from one -direction is remarkable in this inland country. It is true, that in -every direction except the north we have mountains, but they are too -distant to impede the winds. Our caravan advanced at a firm and equal -pace among the sand; nor can I discover that the progress of a camel -is much impeded in the desert. They moved at the rate of two miles -and one eighth in the hour (3740 yards); and I have since found, that -the judicious Volney assigns the distance of 3600 yards as the hourly -journey of a camel in the sands of Egypt and Syria. - -~Dangers of the desert.~ - -We had before heard of the deserts south of the Oxus; and had now the -means of forming a judgment from personal observation. We saw the -skeletons of camels and horses now bleaching in the sun, which had -perished from thirst. The nature of the roads or pathways admits of -their easy obliteration; and, if the beaten track be once forsaken, the -traveller and his jaded animal generally perish. A circumstance of this -very nature occurred but a few days previous to our leaving Charjooee. -A party of three persons travelling from the Orgunje camp lost the -road, and their supply of water failed them. Two of their horses sank -under the parching thirst; and the unfortunate men opened the vein of -their surviving camel, sucked its blood, and reached Charjooee from -the nourishment which they thus derived. The camel died. These are -facts of frequent occurrence. The Khan of Orgunje, in his late march -into the desert, lost upwards of two thousand camels, that had been -loaded with water and provisions for his men. He dug his wells as he -advanced; but the supply of water was scanty. Camels are very patient -under thirst: it is a vulgar error, however, to believe that they can -live any length of time without water. They generally pine, and die on -the fourth day, and, under great heat, will even sink sooner. - -~Seerab.~ - -~Camel’s milk.~ - -After a day’s detention to rest the camels, we marched at sunrise, and -continued our progress, with a short halt, till the same time next day. -We journied thirty-five miles, and alighted at a fetid well called -Seerab; and from well to well we had no water. We appeared to have -lost the great sand hills in our advance westward. The desert, though -it had the same features as before, now presented an undulating and -uneven country of sand, partially covered with shrubs. The soil was -salt in some places; but the water of the well was good enough after it -was some time drawn. Our Toorkmun Sirdar made his appearance shortly -after our arrival, to claim his cup of tea; and never was a schoolboy -more fond of sugar than this hoary-headed Toorkmun. I used to give it -to him to have the pleasure of seeing him grind it, though some of -the merchants wondered at our wasting it on such a person. I always -felt the happier in the company of this man, for I looked upon him as -the only bond between us and the barbarians we were to encounter. He -used also to tell us the news of the caravan, and all the particulars -of the country, which he even knew that we noted down. Ernuzzer did -not deceive us, and the tea and the sugar which he consumed, were but -a small tax for his service. In return for these favours, he promised -to give me a _bonne bouche_, when we reached the first camp of the -Toorkmuns; and when I expected nothing else than “kimmiz” or “boozu,” -mare’s milk or fermented liquor, he brought me camel’s milk, which is -the only drink of the Toorkmuns. The milk is mixed with water, and the -cream is then drawn off. It is called “chal,” and has a salt, bitter -taste. The thinner part of the milk is considered a grateful draught -by the people, but to me it tasted sour and acrid. I believed that the -Uzbeks and Toorkmuns drank mare’s milk and fermented liquors; but these -are unknown in Bokhara, and only peculiar to the Kuzzaks and Kirgizzes, -between that city and Russia. - -~An Eastern caravan.~ - -A caravan is a complete republic; but I do not believe that most -republics are so orderly. Of our eighty camels every three or four -belonged to different individuals; and there were four Cafila-bashees. -Still there was no disputing about the arrangement or order of the -march; and it is a point of honour, that the one shall at all times -wait for the other. If a single camel throws its load, the whole line -halts till it is replaced; and one feels pleased at such universal -sympathy. These feelings make it agreeable to travel in a caravan, -for the detentions are much fewer than would really be imagined. The -more I mingled with Asiatics in their own sphere, and judged them by -their own standard, I imbibed more favourable impressions regarding -them. One does not see in civilised Europe that generous feeling, -which induces the natives of Asia, great and small, to share with each -other every mouthful that they possess. Among Mahommedans we have no -distinction of gentleman and villain,--at least, so far as hospitality -is concerned. The khan fares as simply as the peasant; and never offers -to raise a morsel to his lips till he has shared it with those near -him. I myself frequently have been partaker of this bounty from rich -and poor, for nothing is enjoyed without society. How different is -the feeling that besets the sots of lower society in Britain! Nor is -this good fellowship among the Asiatics confined to the travelled -merchant: it is to be found in the towns as well as the country. It -is a pity that civilisation, with all its advantages, does not retain -for us these virtues. Barbarians are hospitable, civilised men are -polite; but hospitality added to politeness makes it more acceptable. -A caravan is an interesting scene at all times; and the shifts of the -pious to prevent its detention in the Toorkmun desert were not unworthy -of notice. The line was too extended to sound a general halt for -prayers; and at the appointed time, each individual was to be seen on -the back of his camel or in his pannier, performing his orisons before -the Deity, in the best manner which he could accomplish them. The laws -of the Prophet admit of a true believer being cleansed by sand, where -there is no water; and the back of a horse or a camel is as legitimate -a position for prayer, as the most splendid mosque of a city. The busy -scene on our reaching the halting-ground in the evening, was both -lively and entertaining. The Uzbeks, like ourselves, do not water their -horses when they are warm: in this journey, we had no sooner arrived -than we again took our departure, the horses were therefore permitted -to quench their thirst; and to prevent any evil effects from the water, -the animal was immediately mounted and galloped at speed over hill and -dale, for miles. This brought the water, as the Uzbeks would tell you, -to the heated temperature of the animal’s body. The easy carriage of -some of the cavaliers, and the light saddles which they rode,--some of -them little larger than racing saddles,--imparted an interest to these -scampering freaks which was most exciting. - -~Oochghooee and the wandering Toorkmuns.~ - -Our next march brought us at midnight to Oochghooee, or the Three -Wells, which we had great difficulty in finding. We wandered to the -right and to the left, and the Toorkmuns dismounted in the dark, and -felt for the pathway with their hands among the sand. We had almost -despaired of recovering it, and were preparing for our bivouac, when -the bark of a dog, and a distant answer to our repeated calls dispelled -our anxiety, and we were soon encamped at the well. We here found a few -wandering Toorkmuns, the first we had seen since leaving the Oxus. The -well was bitter; but these shepherds seem indifferent to the quality -of the water. The country continued to change still further as we -advanced, becoming more flat and free from sand, but still running in -alternate ridges and hollows. In these we discovered some small red -sharp-edged pebbles, not unlike iron pyrites; nor did the wells which -were dug in them, yet exceed the depth of thirty feet: in the Indian -desert they are 300. The Toorkmuns rallied round us next morning, and -we had the freest intercourse with them; for they were quite ignorant -of our character, and the presence of one of their own tribe, our -Toorkmun Ernuzzer, proved a sufficient attraction to these “children -of the desert.” They spoke of the piercing cold of the winters in -this country; and assured us that the snow sometimes lay a foot deep. -We ourselves had experienced a depression of ten degrees in the -temperature since leaving the Oxus. - -~Ruins of castles. Moorghab.~ - -We were now informed that we were approaching the camp of the Khan of -Orgunje, which, it appears, was on the banks of the Moorghab, or Merve -river, considerably below the place of that name, and about thirty -miles distant from us. We set out at noon, and by the time the sun -had set, found ourselves among the ruins of forts and villages, now -deserted, which rose in castellated groups over an extensive plain. I -have observed that we had been gradually emerging from the sand-hills; -and these marks of human industry, which we had now approached, were -the ancient remnants of civilisation of the famous kingdom of Merve, -or, as our historians have erroneously called it, Meroo. Before we -had approached them, we had not wanted signs of our being delivered -from the ocean of sand, since several flocks of birds had passed -over us. As the mariner is assured by such indications that he nears -land, we had the satisfaction of knowing that we were approaching the -water, after a journey of 150 miles through a sterile waste, where we -had suffered considerable inconvenience from the want of it. We were -not yet within the pale of habitations; but after a cool and pleasant -march, over a perfectly flat and hard plain, every where interspersed -with forts and ruins, we found ourselves, about nine in the following -morning, at a large Toorkmun camp, (or, as it is called, an Oba,) near -the banks of the Moorghab. The name of the place was Khwaju Abdoolla, -and the whole colony sallied forth to meet the caravan. We took up a -position on a hillock about two or three hundred yards distant; and the -merchants instructed us to huddle together among themselves, and appear -lowly and humble. We did so, and the Toorkmuns of the encampment soon -crowded around us, begging for tobacco, for which they brought loads of -the most luscious melons, that we cut up, and enjoyed in the company of -camel drivers and slaves, braving the sun, though I cannot say to the -detriment of our already sun-burned complexions. It now was discovered -that the Orgunje camp lay on the other side of the river, which was not -fordable but in certain places; and the merchants decided that they -themselves, with all the Cafila-bashees, should forthwith proceed in -person to the spot, and use their utmost to conciliate the officer in -charge, for the Khan had returned within these few days to Khiva. Their -great object seemed to be to effect a discharge of the duties in the -spot where they were now encamped, since no one relished trusting their -property within reach of an Orgunje detachment. If the party prayed for -success, I can add that we were equally fervent, and the deputation -set out accordingly with the good wishes of every one. We were left -among the “oi polloi” of the caravan; and when night came, stretched -our felts under a clear and cloudless sky, and slept without fear or -anxiety from our man-selling neighbours. This state of security among -such people and countries is very remarkable; but a Toorkmun, though he -can engage in a foray, and execute it with unexampled address, cannot -commit a theft in a quiet way, which is not congenial to his nature. - -~Remarks on the desert.~ - -I have now a little leisure to speak of the desert which we had -traversed on our route to the Moorghab. In a military point of view, -the scarcity of water is a great obstacle. In some places the wells -were thirty-six miles apart; and, generally, the water was both bitter -and scanty. The water which we had transported with us from the Oxus -was not less nauseous than that of the desert; for it must be carried -in skins, and these must be oiled to preserve them from bursting. -The grease mixes with the water, which latterly became so tainted -that the horses even refused to drink it. There is nothing of which -we feel the want so much as good water. In the march, several people -of the caravan, particularly the camel-drivers, were attacked with -inflammation of the eyes; I suppose, from the sand, glare, and dust. -With such an enumeration of petty vexations and physical obstacles, it -is dubious if an army could cross it at this point. The heavy sandy -pathways, for there are no roads, might certainly be rendered passable -to guns, by placing brushwood on the sand; but there is a great -scarcity of grass for cattle, and the few horses which accompanied the -caravan, were jaded and worn out before they reached the river. A horse -which travels with a camel, has great injustice done to him; but an -army could not outstrip the motions of a caravan, and fatigues would -still fall heavily upon them. History tells us, that many armies have -fought in and crossed this desert; but they consisted of hordes of -light cavalry, that could move with rapidity. It is to be remembered, -that we had not a foot-passenger in our party. Light horse might pass -such a desert, by divisions, and separate routes; for besides the high -road to Merve, there is a road both to the east and the west. It would, -at all times, be a difficult task for a great body of men to pass from -the Moorghab to the Oxus, since our caravan, of eighty camels, emptied -the wells; and it would be easy to hide, or even fill up these scanty -reservoirs. Where water lies within thirty feet of the surface, an -energetic commander may remedy his wants, since we have an instance of -it in the advance of the Orgunje Khan to the banks of the Moorghab. -But after I have written, and, perhaps, diffusely, on the passage of -such a desert, I may ask myself, who seeks to cross it, and in the -line of what invader it lies? It is not in the route between India and -Europe; and if the descendants of the Scythians and Parthians wish to -invade and tyrannize over each other, they may do so without, perhaps, -exciting even the notice of the “fierce Britons.” - -~A Toorkmun camp.~ - -The Toorkmun camp, or “oba,” at which we halted, presented to us a -scene of great novelty. It consisted of about 150 conical moveable -huts, called “khirgahs,” which were perched on a rising ground. There -was no order in the distribution, and they stood like so many gigantic -beehives, which, if they had not had black roofs, might not be a bad -comparison; and we might also take the children as the bees, for they -were very numerous. I wondered at the collection of so many rising -plunderers. Seeing the Toorkmuns in a body, it may be certainly -distinguished, that they have something Tatar in their appearance; -their eyes are small, and the eyelids appear swollen. They are a -handsome race of people. All of them were dressed in the “tilpak,” a -square or conical black cap of sheep-skin, about a foot high, which is -far more becoming than a turban, and gives to a party of Toorkmuns the -appearance of a soldierlike and disciplined body. The Toorkmuns are -remarkably fond of bright-coloured clothes, and choose the lightest -shades of red, green, and yellow, as the patterns of their flowing -“chupkuns,” or pelisses. They sauntered about their encampment in a -great state of listlessness; and what have they to do but to live on -the proceeds of their last foray? They have but few fields, and one or -two individuals may tend their countless flocks at pasture. Their dogs, -indeed, perform this office for them. These animals are very docile, -but ferocious to a stranger: they are shaggy, appearing to be of the -mastiff breed, and bear a high price even among these people. The -martial habits of the Toorkmuns appeared in my eyes the more striking, -as they had cleared the circle of their encampment of brushwood for -about a mile round. It had, I believe, been cut for firewood; but the -resemblance to an esplanade, or a parade ground, was none the less on -that account. In my notice of the Toorkmuns, I must not now forget the -ladies, whose head-dress would do honour to the galaxy of an English -ball-room. It consists of a lofty white turban, shaped like a military -chako, but higher, over which a red or white scarf is thrown, that -falls down to the waist. Some of these Toorkmun females were fair and -handsome, adorning themselves with a variety of ornaments, that were -attached to their hair, which hangs in tresses over their shoulders. -Their head-dress is, perhaps, a little large, but they themselves are -generally on a large scale, and as they never veil it becomes them. The -other part of their costume is a long gown that reaches to the ancle, -and hides both it and the waist, the very standard points of beauty in -our country; but so it is, that nations remote from each other differ -not more in language and laws than in taste and manners. - -~Orgunje officers.~ - -The party which had proceeded to the Orgunje camp, returned next -morning with the deputy of the Yooz-bashee, or the Commander of an -Hundred, and his very appearance made the hearts of the merchants -thrill with fear. No taxes had been collected before this, and every -thing was uncertain. The deputy was an elderly man, with a large -“tilpak” stuck on his head, like a regimental cap. He was accompanied -by a party of desert Toorkmuns, among whom was a chief, or “aksukal,” -(literally, a white beard,) of the great tribe of Saruk. The merchants -seated the deputation in the place of honour, addressed the deputy as -he had been the Yooz-bashee himself, refreshed him with tea and tobacco -(for they now smoked in public), and presented him with silks, cloths, -raisins, and sugar, and then proceeded to display their merchandize. -Every person made an offering, and we sent two handfuls of raisins -and a bit of sugar as our homage. We sat at a short distance in our -panniers, and witnessed the whole scene. The Yooz-bashee, as I also -must call him, now spoke out to all the members of the caravan, and in -the most candid language, said, that he had been directed to levy the -lawful tax of one in forty, but that he would dispense with opening -the bales. Truth, said he, had better be told; for, if I have reason -to doubt any of you, I will then examine them, and you will experience -the wrath of the Khan of Orgunje, my lord and master. This speech was -listened to with terror; some, I believe, actually said that they had -more goods than they really possessed; and, as far as I could judge, -no one deviated from the truth. Pen and ink were called for, and the -congress proceeded to make a list of the merchandize, which was no easy -matter. - -~Precarious situation.~ - -While the merchants were disputing about tillas, and flattering the -Yooz-bashee, we had taken up a quiet position, and even pretended -to be wrapped in sleep. I never was more awake in my life, and -was near enough to hear and see every thing. There were several -questions put regarding us, and the principal merchants spoke with -earnestness and kindness. We had never instructed them, but they -now chose to denominate us Hindoos from Cabool, who were proceeding -on a pilgrimage to the flames of Bakoo, on the Caspian. We had been -successively Englishmen, Afghans, Uzbeks, Armenians, and Jews, and -they now denominated us Hindoos. These people are very simple; nor -do they ever interrogate closely. Shortly after the subject of our -character and objects had been discussed, the Toorkmun Aksukal rose -from the party, and most unwelcomely seated himself by us. “Aksukal,” -as I have said, means white beard, though this personage had a black -enough plumage to his chin: he wore a splendid scarlet pelisse, and -never did our national uniform appear to me more formidable than on -his person; for he might have proved himself “a very Tartar” under -his British colours. He spoke a little Persian, and said, “You are -from Cabool?” to which I gave a nod of assent. The Doctor stretched -himself back in his panier, and our visitor addressed himself to an -Afghan, one of our people, of which I was glad, since it would keep up -the illusion. It is said that the natives of Orgunje are, of all the -tribes in Toorkistan, most hostile to Europeans, as well from their -vicinity to Russia, as their knowledge that the Persians, who threaten -their country, are assisted by them. They of course know nothing of -the different nations of Europe, and look upon all Europeans as their -enemies. I was not sorry when the Toorkmun chief selected another -group, and that this patriarchal “white beard” had made no discovery, -even after seeing us, and entering into conversation. The whole scene -appeared to me a perfect riddle, for we ourselves had mixed with the -Toorkmuns of our party as Europeans; and our real character was known -to every individual of the caravan. Fear may have prevented some of -them from making a full disclosure, but it was very creditable; since -I have reason to believe that the people of the Orgunje Khan would not -have willingly extended their favour towards us. We, however, had one -instance of bad feeling, in a quarter where we least of all looked for -it, at the hands of our Cafila-bashee. He required money to pay the -just taxes on goods, which he had at the outset hoped to smuggle, and -though all settlement had been made between us, and he had nearly -received the full hire of his camels, he sent in the middle of the -confusion to say, that the caravan would be detained on our account, if -we did not lend him some tillas. What a moment, and what a trial for -the temper. It was useless to complain of ungenerous treatment, and it -would have been worse to show that we felt it. I considered a couple of -tillas enough to give the wretch, though we had provided ourselves with -some three hundred of them, which I knew might befriend us, where men -are sold and bought like sheep. Evening advanced, and our transactions -with the Orgunje Yooz-bashee drew to a close. The commander of a -hundred carried off two hundred golden tillas, and all the merchants -accompanied him to his horse, and saw him beyond the limits of our -camp. Such is the dread of authority, and the power of the meanest -man who wears it. In the dusk the merchants came to visit us, and to -relate the affairs of the day over a cup of tea. We had to thank an -Uzbek, named Ullahdad, and Abdool, a Persian; but we had to make some -acknowledgment to all, for we had now become intimate with every body. -Whenever the horsemen of the caravan passed us on the road, they would -shout out to us, “Ah, Meerza! how are you?” with all the consecutive -compliments of their language. Little did many of them know, that the -name of “Meerza Sikunder,” or the secretary Alexander, which they had -given me, was so well merited; since I took every opportunity that I -secretly could to use the pen and ink, and give a secretary’s account -of all their proceedings. On this day I felt pleased with mankind, for -we were now free to prosecute our journey. The Bokharees assured me -that they were interested in our favour, from the commands of their -minister the Koosh Begee; and the Persians, of whom there were many -in the caravan, dreaded the friendship between Abbas Meerza and the -English. Individually, I did not presume to believe that either of -these great personages bestowed much care upon us, but it was pleasant -to know that such were the opinions of our companions. - - - - -CHAP. XIII. - -CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY IN THE TOORKMUN DESERT. - - -~River of Merve.~ - -On the morning of the 29th of August we moved at dawn, with buoyant -spirits, and followed the course of the Moorghab, or river of Merve, -for twelve miles before we could cross it. We found it about eighty -yards wide and five feet deep, running within steep clayey banks, at -the rate of five miles an hour. We crossed by an indifferent ford, over -a clay bottom with many holes. There was no village; but the place is -called Uleesha. This river rises on the mountains of Huzara, and was -long believed to fall into the Oxus or the Caspian. Both opinions are -erroneous, since it forms a lake, or loses itself in one, about fifty -miles N.W. of Merve. This river was formerly dammed above Merve, which -turned the principal part of its waters to that neighbourhood, and -raised that city to the state of richness and opulence which it once -enjoyed. The dam was thrown down about forty-five years ago, by Shah -Moorad, a king of Bokhara, and the river only now irrigates the country -in its immediate vicinity, where it is covered with the tenements, or -“obas,” of the Toorkmuns; for there are no fixed villages. These people -cultivate by irrigation, and every thing grows in rich luxuriance. The -Juwaree (holcus sorghum) has a stalk thicker than a walking-stick, and -in the uncultivated parts there is the richest fodder for cattle and -the finest thorny shrubs for the camel, an animal which is here found -in vast herds. Above Merve the country is called Maroochak, and said to -be unhealthy: there is a proverb, at least, which runs thus,--“Before -God gets intelligence, the water of Maroochak has killed the man.”[2] -This river is the Epardus of Arrian, a word which, I observe in one -author, is said to mean _irrigator_,--nor is it here misapplied. The -historian would even appear to have been acquainted with its course; -for we are told that the Epardus “hides its streams in the sand, as did -many other great rivers.”[3] - -~Amusements.~ - -The transition which we had experienced, from a sandy desert to the -verge of a running stream, was most gratifying; every one seemed -delighted, and even the animals appeared to feel the change. Throughout -the day the banks presented a spectacle of merriment and joy; the -Toorkmuns plunging into the water with their horses, and the greater -part of the caravan sporting about in the stream. We hit upon a -contrivance, which contributed not a little to our sport, and produced -a “tunga,” or the third part of a rupee, which was to be the reward -of the person who could first cross the river. The enormous sum was -solemnly vested in a committee; I believe even the blessing was said; -and sixteen competitors appeared on the occasion. It was won by a -Toorkmun of Shurukhs, who had the art of running quickest in the deep -water. - -~Knights and heroines of Merve.~ - -We were now in the vicinity of Merve, and several members of the -caravan, on their approach to the river, declared that they had a view -of the elevated mound of its ruined castle. I sought in vain, but -the other spectators were looking for their native city, and wished, -perhaps, to persuade themselves that they beheld it. I listened to -the tales of valour which these people related to me of one Bairam -Khan and a chosen body of seven hundred, that long resisted the arms -of the Uzbeks of Bokhara, till Shah Moorad finally subdued them by a -stratagem in war, and forcibly transferred the whole population to his -capital. Nor was I less gratified to hear the patriotic tale of the -heroines of Merve, the wives and daughters of the gallant band. It is -recorded, and it is believed, that on one occasion, when the forces of -Bokhara invaded the land of Merve, during the absence of Bairam Khan -and his knights, these fair ones embodied and appeared in the field. -The Uzbeks were intimidated at the sight of troops whom they believed -they had surprised, and fled with precipitation, leaving the heroines -of Merve their virtuous victors: nor is this a solitary instance of -female triumph over man. The people of Merve, in their loss of country -and liberty, retain the same reputation for valour which characterised -their ancestors; and, to this day, when they quit the country, their -valiant partners are held in Bokhara as a pledge of their fidelity, and -may on no account cross the Oxus. - -~Alarm.~ - -Some circumstances here came to our knowledge that called for prudence -and caution, and which appeared to excite the justest alarm. As our -party had arrived at the Orgunje camp, they found the chief in the act -of despatching a body of 350 Toorkmuns on a foray to the frontiers of -Persia. Our friends had arrived even in time to give these barbarians -the usual “fatha;” for, whatever they felt, it was impossible to appear -otherwise than pleased at their intentions. The Yooz-bashee in their -presence charged the robbers to be of good cheer, and remember the -good work on which they were to be engaged, and the golden “tillas” -to be reaped in the country of the Kuzzilbash. “Go,” exclaimed he, -“and bring the Prince Royal of Persia, Abbas Meerza himself to the -feet of the Khan Huzrut.” The Allamans mounted in a moment, and one -of the merchants, who seemed to have had his senses about him, begged -that the formidable band would spare our caravan. The Yooz-bashee -gave instructions to that effect; but they now shook their heads, and -seemed but little disposed to put the honesty of such men to a trial. -They turned over all the bearings of the case in their minds, and -looked very woful. As a member of the party, I could not help asking -for information on the _blessings_ which they had been called on -gratuitously to bestow on such a horde. “Fatha,” said a Persian, “I did -take the name of the holy Prophet, but it was that these man-selling -scoundrels might never return.” Our conductor Ernuzzer himself said, -that it was an abomination to have made such a use of the first -sentence of the Koran; so easy is it to make the ritual of a faith -correspond with the wishes. The doctor and myself, I believe, were the -only members of the caravan who would have liked to have a peep at the -ferocious Allamans; but I dare say it was fortunate that our curiosity -was not gratified. Since such a horde of plunderers was abroad, it -was decided that we should march upon Shurukhs, a large Toorkmun -settlement, and there await the result of their expedition, which the -merchants of the caravan had more desire to hear of than witness. The -party had been instructed to proceed by easy marches, as the Toorkmuns -always do in their forays, and was expected to return on the tenth day. - -~Toorkmuns; their laws of plunder.~ - -~Training of the horses.~ - -On the 30th of August we retraced the greater part of yesterday’s -route, and travelled down the opposite bank of the river for about -sixteen miles, when we again halted among the Toorkmuns in their native -state, at an encampment called Kunjookoolan. We here mixed among them -without hesitation, and gathered many particulars concerning them. The -Toorkmuns are Toorks; but they differ from the Uzbeks, and are entirely -devoted to a pastoral life. There are several great tribes of the race, -all of whom claim a common origin; we had seen the Ersarees on the -Oxus, and were now mingling with the tribe of Saruk, beyond which are -the Salore. Towards the Caspian lie the Tuka, Goklan, and Yumood, all -of them great tribes, and of which I shall speak as we advance. Among -our Saruk acquaintances there was one individual who had passed his -days in making incursions into Persia, and in his odious traffic had -acquired a perfect knowledge of the language of that country, which -enabled me to learn the genuine sentiments of a Toorkmun robber. His -name was Noornyaz; and in his forays he had accompanied the largest and -smallest parties: he had, indeed, only returned with three captives, -that had been secured by the small number of six horsemen. He described -the manner of approaching Persia by slow and short stages, and that, -after reaching the frontiers, they frequently hovered for days in sight -of a fort to watch for a favourable opportunity of capture. If none -presents itself, they make a dash in upon the fields in the morning, -as the shepherds and husbandmen pursue their occupations, and bear off -with speed whoever they may seize. If hotly pursued, they relinquish -a spare horse with which every two individuals is provided, and carry -off the more valuable slave. In such a transient expedition every -thing depends on the fleetness of their horses, and the Toorkmuns -accordingly bestow the utmost care upon them. My Toorkmun acquaintance -said, that he was now preparing his horse for another foray, which -consists in exercising him most severely after a long abstinence -from food and water, which brings the animal to a matchless state of -hardihood. They do not permit them to taste green forage, but confine -them to dry food, which they believe hardens the flesh. They sweat -them till their fat entirely disappears, and of this they judge by the -quantity of water which the horse drinks, since it is very small if -his flesh has been properly reduced. The Toorkmun horse, with such a -training, far surpasses in bottom those of Europe and Arabia; but he -is a coarse-looking animal, and has neither the sleekness nor beauty -of coat which we see in India or our own country. Since the life and -fortune of the Toorkmun are identified with the goodness of his horse, -we can account for the care and attention that he bestows upon him. -The little food to which he is inured enables his rider to provide -with ease for his own wants: he carries the grain for the horse and -himself, as well as bread and flour: in his advance he sometimes buries -these in a well-known place, till he shall return from the foray; and -when the Toorkmun retreats into his native desert, he is thus supplied -with provisions, though he may have been weeks from his camp, which he -shares with the victims of his capture, whom he drags into miserable -servitude. - -~Reflections.~ - -In the catalogue of human miseries there are few more severely felt, -and the consequences of which are more destructive to domestic -happiness, than the cruel system of man-stealing. Great as are the -miseries produced by this, the hordes who engage in it appear to -derive none of the luxuries or enjoyment of human life from such an -occupation, and live in rags and penury, seemingly without advantage -from their devastations. The terror which the Toorkmuns inspire among -the people of the neighbouring countries is fearful, nor is this -surprising, since they evince such fortitude and persevering energy in -their dangerous occupation. We cannot fail to admire their address, and -acknowledge their valour, at the time that we deplore the lot of the -unhappy country on which they display their prowess. The manners and -customs of the Toorkmuns, in the odious practices which they pursue -against their fellow man, sap the best principles of human nature, -and we consequently find this people wanting in much of the honour -which is often seen among half-civilised nations. “A Toorkmun,” the -people will tell you, “is a dog, and will only be kept quiet with -a bit of bread, like a dog: give it then, is the doctrine of the -traveller, and pass on unmolested.” They have likewise the character -of being perfidious and treacherous, nor is it altogether unmerited. -The Persians have endeavoured, but without success, to put a stop to -these reckless inroads of the Toorkmun, but he himself lives in a -desert where he is safe, and is encouraged by the ready sale which he -finds for his captives in the favoured countries that lie beyond his -own desolate region. In their expeditions into Persia, some Toorkmuns -are occasionally captured, and an exorbitant ransom has been placed -upon their heads, but yet they have been redeemed by their kinsmen. A -Toorkmun passes his life either in a foray, or in preparing for one; -and it is a disgraceful fact, that the chiefs of Khorasan have long -and unnaturally leagued with these enemies of their religion and their -country, to barter a still greater portion of unfortunate Persians into -their hands, and eternal slavery. Avarice is the most baneful of our -vices. - -~Meeting of the caravan. Claims against us.~ - -Now that we were beyond the power of the Orgunje troops, the merchants -of the caravan assembled in conclave to bemoan the loss of their money -in a new tax, and to devise ways and means to recover it. It appeared -to the majority, that the Firingees, that is, ourselves, should bear a -portion of the burthen, and the assemblage waited on us in the evening -to express their wishes, and request that we would bear one fourth of -all the duties. Since the payment of the regular customs had induced -the officer to forego the usual fee on each pair of panniers, we had -certainly escaped every kind of tax, and this was evidently owing to -the wealth and size of the caravan with which we were travelling. The -Orgunje officer, too, it was now stated, had been bribed to the amount -of ten tillas. It appeared both reasonable and just that we should -bear our share of this outlay, and I therefore offered the usual tax -of a tilla on each of our camels, since it would tend to diminish the -general expenditure of the caravan. It was a point that called for the -exercise of discretion and judgment, since a total denial might have -converted a friendly into a hostile party; and, on the other hand, it -at all times behoved us to be most sparing in our expenses. In the -present instance, I had the good fortune to conciliate by my concession -the principal merchants of the party. There were several who still -called on us to pay a fourth share of the tax; but as I ascertained -that no additional expenses had been incurred on our account, and the -duties would have been levied whether we had been present or absent, -I declined compliance, and stated to them that we were travellers, -and their guests, in a foreign land, and hoped for their forbearance -and justice. The Toorkmun chief, our friend Ernuzzer, appeared at -this stage of our conversation, to enter his protest against such an -outrage to hospitality as the demand which had been made upon us; but -I had already made up my mind, and passed my word. The rights of the -stranger are much respected among these people, and the cry of the -many died away into the feeble vociferations of the poorer traders, -whose scanty means made them feel more heavily the levy that had been -made upon them. In one respect the character of an European in such -countries is ill suited for a traveller; he is believed to possess -boundless wealth, though he may be sunk in poverty; an Asiatic, in his -expenses, has nothing in common with the opinions of an European. - -~Continuation of the Desert.~ - -~Whirlwinds.~ - -We now commenced our march in the desert westward of the Moorghab -river, and made a progress of thirty-seven miles. The tract was -entirely different from the opposite side, and about the middle of the -journey the desert changed into a level, hard, flat surface, which it -ever afterwards preserved. The camels moved up in four strings abreast -of each other, and we continued to advance in that order. The tract -put me much in mind of the Run of Cutch, though there were patches -of bushes, which are not to be seen in that most singular region.[4] -The country was destitute of water, but there were many remains of -caravansarais and cisterns that had been built by the philanthropic -Abdulla Khan of Bokhara. In this neighbourhood, and more particularly -while on the banks of the river, we witnessed a constant succession of -whirlwinds, that raised the dust to a great height, and moved over the -plain like water-spouts at sea. In India these phenomena are familiarly -known by the name of _devils_, where they sometimes unroof a house; but -I had not seen them in that country either of such size or frequency as -now prevailed in the Toorkmun desert. They appeared to rise from gusts -of wind, for the air itself was not disturbed but by the usual north -wind that blows steadily in this desert. - -~The highlands of Persia.~ - -~Mirage.~ - -As we halted in the morning of the 1st of September, at a ruin which -bore the name of Kalournee, we descried the hills of Persian Khorasan. -In the direction where they rose I had observed the atmosphere to be -clouded since we reached the banks of the Moorghab, and we might have -perhaps seen them sooner, though they still appeared in the haze of -distance. As we discovered these mountains at sunrise, a magnificent -mirage shone in the same direction. One could trace a river, and its -steep and opposite banks; but, as the sun ascended, the appearance -vanished, and left the same flat and cheerless country in which we were -now encamped. The high banks of the river had no existence, and the -water was but vapour set in the rays of light. - -~Plants of the desert.~ - -As we approached Shurukhs, we could distinguish a gradual, though -almost imperceptible rise in the country. We exchanged the shrubs that -I have before described, for the tamarisk and the camel’s thorn, which -does not grow in the desert. The most singular of the plants which a -new zone presented to us, was one called “gyk chenak” in the Toorkee -language, which literally means, the deer’s cup. It grows like hemlock -or assafœtida (and has as bad a smell), only that a leaf, shaped -precisely like a cup, surrounds each knot or division of the plant’s -stalk. In this natural bowl the rains of spring are collected, and -supply the deer with water. Such is the popular belief, and such is the -name. We afterwards saw a plant not unlike the deer’s cup among the -hills eastward of Meshid. A gum, like tallow, exuded from it, and it -shot up as an annual among the high lands. - -~Allamans.~ - -~Meet an unsuccessful party.~ - -We had been treading in our last marches on the very ground which had -been disturbed by the hoofs of the Toorkmuns who were advancing on -Persia. It was with no small delight that we at last lost our traces -of the formidable band, which we could discover had branched off the -high road towards Meshid. Had we encountered them, a second negotiation -would have been necessary, and the demands of robbers might not have -been easily satisfied. “Allamans” seldom attack a caravan, but still -there are authenticated instances of their having murdered a whole -party in the very road we were travelling. Men with arms in their -hands, and in power, are not to be restrained. After losing all traces -of this band, we came suddenly upon a small party of Allamans, seven -in number, who were returning from an unsuccessful expedition. They -were young men, well mounted and caparisoned, in the Toorkmun manner; a -lance and a sword formed their arms; they had no bows, and but one led -horse. Their party had been discomfited, and four of them had fallen -into the hands of the Persians. They told us of their disasters, and -asked for bread, which some of our party gave them. I wish that all -their expeditions would terminate like this. - -~Arrival at Shurukhs.~ - -~Detention.~ - -We reached Shurukhs at sun-rise on the 2d, after having performed a -journey of seventy miles in forty-four hours, including every halt. -During this period we had only marched for thirty-two hours, and the -camels sometimes stepped out at the rate of two and a half miles an -hour, which I had never before seen. All the camels were males, since -they are believed to undergo fatigue better than females. Our caravan -alighted round an old tomb, with a lofty dome, and it was unanimously -decided, that so long as the Allamans were abroad, it would not be -prudent to prosecute our journey. It was therefore resolved to _sleep_ -in Shurukhs (to use a phrase of their own), the greatest haunt of -the Toorkmun robbers; a paradox truly, since we were to settle among -thieves to avoid the thieves abroad. We, however, possessed but humble -influence in the party, and had only to meet the general wish. The -merchandize was piled round the tomb, the people took up a position -outside of it, and at night the camels and horses formed a triple -barrier. Such were the arrangements for our protection, and, as will -be seen, not more than were necessary. The Toorkmuns crowded among us -during the day, and brought tunics of camel-cloth for sale, which were -readily purchased; but there was not an individual of the caravan who -trusted himself at a distance from it: and how could it be otherwise, -when we hourly saw the “Allamans” passing and repassing in front of -us, and knew that the chief subsistence of the people was derived from -these “chupaos?” - -~Shurukhs.~ - -The Toorkmun settlement of Shurukhs consists of a small and weak fort, -almost in ruins, situated on a hillock, under cover of which most of -the inhabitants have pitched their tenements. There are a few mud -houses, which have been built by the Jews of Meshid, who trade with -these people; but the Toorkmuns themselves live in the conical houses -or khirgahs, peculiar to their tribe. They are constructed of wood, -surrounded by a mat of reeds, and covered in the roof with felts, -that become black with soot. Shurukhs is the residence of the Salore -Toorkmuns, the noblest of the race. Two thousand families are here -domiciled, and an equal number of horses, of the finest blood, may be -raised in case of need. If unable to cope with their enemies, these -people flee to the deserts, which lie before them, and there await the -termination of the storm. They pay a sparing and doubtful allegiance -to Orgunje and Persia, but it is only an impending force that leads -to their submission. When we were at Shurukhs they had a Persian -ambassador in chains, and refused to grant a share of the transit -duties to the Khan of Orgunje, which they had promised in the preceding -month, when that chief was near them. These are commentaries on their -allegiance. The Salore Toorkmuns are ruled by twelve _aksukals_, the -heads of the different families; but they acknowledge no particular -allegiance to any individual person. The country around Shurukhs is -well watered by aqueducts from the rivulet of Tejend, which is a -little brackish, but its waters are usefully employed in fertilising -its fields. The soil is exceedingly rich, and possesses great aptness -for agriculture; the seed is scattered, and vegetates almost without -labour. The harvest is rich, and they reap it, like true republicans, -without a tax. The inhabitants repeat a tradition, that the first of -men tilled in Shurukhs, which was his garden, while Serendib or Ceylon -was his house! There is not a tree or a bush to enliven the landscape, -for the Toorkmuns despise gardening. The crops of wheat and juwaree -are here most abundant, and the melons are only inferior to those of -Bokhara. - -~Alarms.~ - -Two days after our arrival at Shurukhs, and when I venture to say we -had often congratulated ourselves at the near prospect of successfully -terminating our journey, we experienced an alarm that at least showed -our congratulations were premature. One of the Toorkmun chiefs of the -place appeared in our part of the encampment, and summoned the Hajee, -one of our people, to attend him, near enough for me to overhear their -conversation. He commenced a long list of interrogatories regarding -us, and stated that he had heard from persons in the caravan that we -possessed great wealth, and had travelled into the remotest parts of -Toorkistan. Such being the case, continued he, it was impossible for -him to grant us permission to prosecute our journey, until the commands -of Ullah Koli, Khan of Orgunje, were received concerning us. This -formidable announcement would even have appeared more frightful, had -not the Toorkmun added on his departure, that his fellow chiefs were -ignorant of our presence in the caravan, and that we might perhaps -consider his good wishes not unworthy of being purchased. The matter -was however serious, since it discovered that there were persons in the -caravan who were ill-disposed towards us, and it was certain that the -Toorkmuns had the power of enforcing all which the person in question -had threatened. Immediate measures were necessary, and I lost no time -in adopting them. There were five or six merchants of respectability -in the caravan, and I went to the two principal persons, whom I have -before named, and related the affair to them with perfect candour. I -should have gone to Ernuzzer the Toorkmun, but he had in former days -lived at Shurukhs, and, in his change to the life of a citizen, had -forfeited much of the influence he might be supposed to possess among -his countrymen; nor did I even unfold to him the circumstances till we -reached Meshid. I observed that the communication equally excited the -uneasiness of the merchants, and once more discovered that these people -were really concerned for our safety. They poured forth their wrath -against the informer, and expressed in unequivocal language the fears -which they entertained from the Vizier of Bokhara on one side, and the -Prince Royal of Persia on the other. One of the merchants advised that -I should immediately produce the firman of the King of Bokhara; but in -this I differed, and the opinion of the other was more in consonance -with my own judgment. Abdool undertook to negotiate the _feeding of the -dog of a Toorkmun_; but it may be imagined that there was little to -cheer us under such circumstances. A cheerful countenance was, however, -indispensable, that we might the better meet the difficulties, and, if -possible, frustrate the hopes of the villain who had betrayed us. - -~Dissipation of them.~ - -The first piece of intelligence which assailed us on the following -morning was the loss of a beautiful little black pony, which had been -stolen from his pickets during night. It is customary in this country -to chain the horse’s leg to the iron pin, and then padlock it; but we -had not adopted this precaution. I regretted this loss more than I -might have done a more serious misfortune. The sturdy little creature -had followed me from Poona in the centre of India, had borne me in many -a weary journey, and I cannot tell how much it vexed me to leave him -in such a country, and in such hands. The whole caravan assembled to -express their regret at the theft, and assured me that I should either -have the pony or his value; but they did not understand that in my -estimation he stood above all price. I was obliged to turn to other -matters, and it was a more solid source of consolation to find that we -had satisfied the demands, and silenced the threats of the Toorkmun -chief at a most moderate sacrifice. He became master of our stock of -tea, and we should have added the sugar, had it been worth presenting; -and this peace offering, crowned with two gold tillas (each valued -at about six and a half rupees), satisfied a chief who had us in his -power. Doonmus, for so he was named, was the “Aksukal” of 300 families, -and one of those who share in the plunder and taxation of Shurukhs. We -were much indebted in this difficulty to Abdool, who happened to be an -acquaintance of the Toorkmun, and whom we had brought over to us by -some acts of civility. We might not have escaped so readily from the -talons of any of the others; and it was curious that the fellow who had -wished to profit by us was the friend of the merchant with whom we were -most intimate. - -~Toorkmun customs.~ - -This sunshine of our prosperity admitted of our entering with greater -spirit into our enquiries regarding the Toorkmuns, and I gathered some -characteristic incidents of the people. They are as romantic in their -customs of marriage as in their habits of plunder. They do not enter -into the conjugal state with the simple forms of Mahommedans; for the -communication between the sexes is unrestrained, and attachments are -formed that ripen into love. But the daughter of a Toorkmun has a high -price, and the swain, in despair of making a legitimate purchase, -seizes his sweetheart, seats her behind him on the same horse, and -gallops off to the nearest camp, where the parties are united, and -separation is impossible. The parents and relatives pursue the lovers, -and the matter is adjusted by an intermarriage with some female -relation of the bridegroom, while he himself becomes bound to pay so -many camels and horses as the price of his bride. If the person be -rich, these are generally paid on the spot; but if, as more often -happens, he is without property, he binds himself to discharge his -debt, which is viewed as one of honour; and he proceeds on forays to -Persia, till he has gained enough to fulfil his engagement. His success -in these generally converts him into a robber for the rest of his -days; and the capture of the Kuzzilbash has now become indispensable -to settle in life the family of a Toorkmun. The young lady, after her -Gretna Green union, returns to the house of her parents, and passes a -year in preparing the carpets and clothes, which are necessary for a -Toorkmun tent; and, on the anniversary of her elopement, she is finally -transferred to the arms and house of her gallant lover. - -~Fortitude of a slave.~ - -A circumstance lately happened at Shurukhs, which was repeated to us -by many of the people, and exhibits additional examples of the love -of liberty, and the despair which is inspired by the loss of it. A -Persian youth, who had been captured by the Toorkmuns, dragged out a -miserable life of servitude in Shurukhs. He was resolved to be free, -and chose the opportunity of his master being at an entertainment, to -effect his object. He saddled the best horse of his stable, and on the -very eve of departure was discovered by the daughter of his lord, who -attempted to give the alarm. He drew his sword, and put the girl to -death. Her cries alarmed the mother, whom he also slew; and as he was -bidding his final farewell to Shurukhs, the master himself arrived. The -speed of the horse, which had so often been employed in the capture -of his countrymen, now availed this fugitive, who was pursued, but -not overtaken; and thus, by an exertion of desperate boldness, did he -regain his liberty, leaving his master to deplore the loss of his wife -and his daughter, his horse and his slave. - -~Toorkmun customs.~ - -I have mentioned that our camp at Shurukhs lay by the shrine of a -Mahommedan saint. He flourished 824 years since, under the name of -Aboolfuzzul Hoosn, as appears by an inscription on the tomb, and he is -yet revered by all the Toorkmuns. If one of them fall sick, he invokes -the manes of the saint; if his horse or his camel suffer from disease, -he circumambulates his tomb, in the hope and conviction of relief. -The Toorkmuns have no mosques; they say their prayers in the tent or -in the desert, without ablution, and without a carpet. They have few -Moollahs or priests, for the church has little honour among them, and -they are but poor followers of the prophet. They have no education to -assuage the fiercer passions, which renders the men unsusceptible of -pity, and the women indifferent to chastity. The men perform all the -out-door employments, and the women work at home. The Toorkmuns are -a race of people who court alternate activity and idleness. Abroad -they evince the greatest spirit, and at home saunter about in idleness -and indolence. They are fond of their horses, and of singing songs in -honour of them. At night I have listened to the panegyrics on the feats -of the “Chupraslee” and “Karooghlee” horses, the never-ending theme -of praise. “Karooghlee” means a warrior as well as a horse, but it -describes a famous breed now said to be extinct. “Chupraslee,” though -it means but swift, is applied to a particular horse of reputed speed. -I longed to record some of these Toorkmun songs, but at Shurukhs we -could gather only these few lines:-- - -~A song.~ - - “I keep an Arab horse for the day of battle, - I live on that day under his shade, - In the conflict I slay a hero,-- - Keep an Arab horse, hold a shield of iron. - Kurooghlee! - - “In the day of battle I bend my bow of iron, - Erect on my horse, no one can dismount me. - I am an only child, I have no brother or sister,-- - Keep an Arab horse, hold a shield of iron. - Kurooghlee! - - “If I breathe, the ice of the mountains melts, - The water of my eyes would turn a mill, - So said Jonas the Puree,-- - Keep an Arab horse, hold a shield of iron. - Kurooghlee!” - -~A Toorkmun house.~ - -After the alarm which we had already experienced in Shurukhs, it was -not desirable that we should mingle much with the people; but I had -great curiosity to see them, and our Toorkmun Ernuzzer said I was -invited to a friend’s house, and I accompanied him without further -consideration. I was very agreeably surprised to find these wandering -people living here, at least, in luxury. The tent or khirgah was -spacious, and had a diameter of about twenty-five feet. The sides were -of lattice-work, and the roof was formed of laths, which branched -from a circular hoop, about three feet in diameter, through which the -light is admitted. The floor was spread with felts and carpets, of -the richest manufacture, which looked like velvet. Fringed carpets -were also hung up round the tent, which gave it a great finish, and -their beauty was no doubt enhanced by their being the work of wives -and daughters. On one side of the tent was a small press, in which -the females of the family kept their clothes, and above it were piled -the quilts on which they slept. These are of variegated coloured -cloth, both silk and cotton. From the circular aperture in the roof, -three large tassels of silk were suspended, differing in colour, and -neatly wrought by some fair young hand. Altogether, the apartment and -its furniture bespoke any thing but an erratic people; yet the host -explained to me that the whole house could be transported on one camel, -and its furniture on another. On my return I expressed my surprise at -such comfort, but my companions in the caravan bade me not wonder at -such a display, since the Toorkmuns were _man-eaters_ (adum khor), and -got their food for nothing. Many a nation has been written down as -cannibals on as slight grounds; but the people merely meant to tell me -that they lived on the proceeds of man-selling. Before I quitted the -tent, the host produced bread and melons, according to their custom, of -which we partook, with about fifteen other Toorkmuns, who had dropped -in. They cut up a melon with great dexterity and neatness, separate -the pulp from the skin, which is not thicker than that of an orange, -by a single sweep of the knife, then dividing it into a dozen pieces. -I listened for about half an hour to their conversation, the subject -of which I could comprehend to be slaves and horses. They took me for -a native of Cabool, from the loongee which I wore as a turban, nor did -I undeceive them. They all got up as I left, and bade me good-bye with -all the respect of a good Mahommedan. They might not have injured me -had they known the truth, but they would have detained me with endless -questions; and, as it was, I saw their customs without inconvenience. I -was never so much struck with the Tatar features as in this assemblage. -The Toorkmun has a skull like a Chinese, his face is flat, his cheek -bones project, and his countenance tapers to the chin, which has a most -scanty crop of hair. He is by no means ugly, and his body and features -are alike manly. Their women are remarkably fair, and often handsome. - -~Toorkmun mode of feasting.~ - -I might have followed up my acquaintance, and dined with the Toorkmuns -in the evening; but, since I did not do so, I shall describe their -feast from Toorkmun authority. When they invite a stranger to dinner, -they send to say they have killed a sheep. They are not very choice in -their cookery. Their cakes are baked about two feet in diameter, and an -inch thick, of the coarsest flour, and generally mixed up with slices -of pumpkin. These are always eaten fresh. When the party assembles, -the cloth is spread, and each person crumbles down the piece of cake -which is laid before him. The meat is then brought, which consists of -one entire sheep, boiled in a huge Russian pot. They separate the flesh -from the bones, and tear it into as small pieces as the bread, with -which it is mixed. They shred about a dozen of onions, and throw the -whole mess into the pot where the meat has been boiled, and mix it up -with the soup. It is then served out in wooden bowls, one of which is -placed before every two persons. Their mode of eating is as singular -as that of preparation; they fill their open hand, and commencing from -the wrist, lick it up like dogs, holding the head over the bowl, which -catches all that falls. Each of the two in his turn fills his hand, and -holds his head over the bowl. Melons follow, and the repast concludes -with a pipe of tobacco. The women do not eat with the men. - -~Success of the Allamans.~ - -On the seventh day after our arrival at Shurukhs, when every one -was enquiring about the “Allamans,” or robbers, who had preceded us, -they began to drop in upon us by twos and threes, with their horses -lame and jaded, and by evening upwards of a hundred had arrived. They -stopped by the caravan, and gave us a glowing account of their foray, -congratulating themselves in boastful strains at their success. They -had made their descent near Meshid four days previously, about ten in -the morning, and rode up to the very walls of the city, driving men and -animals before them. Not a soul appeared to arrest their progress; and -when they numbered their spoil a few miles from the city, they found -115 human beings, 200 camels, and as many cattle. Since then they had -returned without haste, and now skirted Shurukhs for refreshment. On -the way they had already divided their booty. A fifth was given to -the Khan of Orgunje, and the party had to congratulate themselves at -the number of able-bodied men, and the few _white-beards_, old ones, -among their prisoners. Returning through the hills, they encountered -the videttes of a small party of horse, who are stationed to give -information at Durbund, which lies between Shurukhs and Meshid. In the -scuffle, one of the Toorkmuns was wounded, and they captured one of -the videttes and fifteen horses. They put the unfortunate Persian to -death, as an offering to God for the success which attended them; since -they pretend to consider the murder of a heretic Kuzzilbash as grateful -to the Almighty; and they generally kill most of the old persons who -fall into their hands, as a propitiatory offering to the Creator. The -Toorkmuns, indeed, defend their capture of these unfortunate human -beings, on the ground of their conversion to a true religion, and -consequent salvation. Unhappily for mankind, the history of the world -presents us with too many and similar instances of this mistaken and -religious zeal. The Spaniards pursued their conquests in the New -World under the specious pretence of disseminating Christianity; they -sacked the empires of Mexico and Peru, and butchered their inoffending -inhabitants; while their priests impiously blessed their inhuman -outrages.[5] They, too, like the Toorkmuns, propitiated their king by -a present of a fifth of their spoil. Human nature, under king or khan, -is the same in all countries, whether we contemplate the frenzy and -avarice of the Spaniards in America, or the roaming Toorkmun in the -Scythian deserts. - -The opportunity which was afforded us of seeing these robbers, -inspired a good opinion of their courage, for many of them were -indifferently armed. They all had swords, most had light, long lances, -quite different from those used by the Uzbeks, and a few had small -matchlocks. Their horses looked quite done up, and walked as if on beds -of gravel; but they had been thirteen days in motion, with scanty food -and much work. While we admire the courage of these men, what shall we -think of the Persians, who are encamped within two days’ journey of -Meshid, under the heir-apparent of their throne, and numbering an army -of twenty thousand men? - -~Inconveniences.~ - -~Mad camel.~ - -The return of the Orgunje Allamans should have now settled our -movements, but some timid being spread a rumour that half of the -robbers yet lay in wait for our caravan on the Persian frontier. Our -departure was therefore still put off, and I cannot say that I felt -comfortable in such quarters. We had no tent or shelter for ten days -but the rotten walls of an old tomb, which were infested with reptiles. -Though our bed had always been the ground, and we had long ceased -to feel the aches which one experiences from an occasional bivouac -in civilised life, we could not now spread a carpet, lest we should -appear too rich among the Toorkmuns, who stated in upon us at all -times, and frequently asked us questions. Our bread, too, had been ten -times coarser than “bannocks of barley meal,” not half so palatable. -We could with great difficulty read or write for a single hour during -the day, and the time passed as heavily as possible, exhausting our -patience. During our detention, one of the camels was said to have gone -mad, whether from ennui or some more cogent cause I knew not. The poor -creature foamed at the mouth, groaned, and refused its food. The case -was referred to us, as he was pronounced to be possessed of a devil; -but of course without avail. At length they fell on the expedient of -frightening the camel, by clashing a lighted torch before his eyes and -body, and kindling reeds and furze under his nose. They also passed a -red-hot iron over his head; and the animal assuredly improved under -this rough treatment, of burning the devil who had lodged in so ugly a -creature. - -~Departure from Shurukhs.~ - -~Increased caravan.~ - -At length, on the 11th of September, after a detention of ten long -days, we joyfully quitted Shurukhs at sunrise. The Toorkmuns maintained -their character to the last. After giving us leave, and agreeing to tax -us at the first stage, they waited till we had fairly started, and then -sent orders to stop the caravan. They demanded a tilla and a half on -every camel; which is the customary transit duty for an escort to the -Persian frontier. The party came only a few miles, and then returned, -tired of escorting; nor were we sorry to get so well rid of them. Our -caravan had now been increased by the junction of two others, which -had come up during our stay, and formed a numerous body: but I fear -there were more timid than fighting hearts among us. There were men, -women, and children; merchants, travellers, pilgrims, and emancipated -slaves. There were Uzbeks, Arabs, Persians, Afghans, Hindoos, Jews, -natives of Budukhshan and Cashmeer; Toorks and Toorkmuns; a Nogai -Tatar, a wandering Kirghiz from Pameer, and ourselves, natives of -Europe. Last, not least, was a young Persian girl, about fifteen -years old, whom we had picked up at Shurukhs, and who was said to be -of exquisite beauty. She had been captured by the Toorkmuns; and her -loveliness overcoming their avarice, she had at first been detained by -her captor. The arrival of our caravan and so many merchants, however, -tempted his cupidity; and he offered his charge for sale. A merchant -of Tehran purchased her for seventy-seven gold tillas; and the poor -girl, who was walking about a few hours before, and saw and was seen by -every one, was now literally packed up in a pannier. She had changed -her character from slave to wife; for it signifies nought that she may -have another husband, since she is surely born again who comes out of -the hands of the Toorkmuns. This was a leap year; but a lady may be -there allowed at all times to fall in love. The fair one of whom I -speak made a set at the first merchant who visited her; and stated, -as an inducement to her purchase, that she would join any creed they -liked. This Persian girl is not the first of her sex who has changed -her doctrines with her name. - -~Entrance into Persia.~ - -We halted in the afternoon at a cistern, eighteen miles distant from -Shurukhs, the fort of which was yet visible; for we had travelled over -level country, broken in some places by gravelly hillocks. At the third -mile we crossed the dry and pebbly bed of the small river of Tejend, -which rises in the neighbouring hills, and is lost in the sands. This -is not the Herat river, nor is it the Ochus, for no such great river -as appears in our maps has existence. Its pools were saline, and much -of the soil was also salt. There were remnants of civilisation, but -neither fields nor inhabitants. We again set out about eight at night -with a full moon; and, after an advance of seven or eight miles, -entered among defiles and hills, and found ourselves at Moozderan -or Durbund, the frontier post in Persia, a little after sunrise, -and forty-five miles from Shurukhs. The whole of the latter part of -the route lay in a deep ravine, where there is imminent danger in -travelling from the “Allamans” of the desert. We pushed on with great -celerity and greater fear: every instrument of war was in requisition, -every match was lit, and the slightest sound brought the horsemen to -a halt; for we hourly expected to encounter the Toorkmuns. After a -night of such anxiety, we beheld with pleasure the look-out towers of -Durbund, eleven of which crown the crest of the range, and command its -passage. We here found a few irregular soldiers, the first subjects of -the “Great King” whom we encountered. They were dispirited after the -attack of the Toorkmuns, since this was the party which had lost their -horses, and some of their fellow-soldiers. - -~Moozderan or Durbund.~ - -After we had surmounted the pass of Durbund, our caravan alighted -in the fields beyond the fort of Moozderan, which stands on an -isolated spur of table-land, as you descend the pass. The place was -once peopled; but the Khan of Orgunje some years since seized its -inhabitants _en masse_, and razed their defences. In repair, it might -protect the road into Persia; but a peasant cannot risk his life -unless he receives the protection of his king. There is a beautiful -fountain of tepid water, which springs up under Moozderan; and makes -for itself, and some kindred streams, a channel down the valley, where -the fruit trees and gardens of the exiled inhabitants may still be -seen. It appeared a charming spot to us after so long a sojourn among -desolation. The men on the pass showed us a cave, of which they had -many fabulous tales, describing it to be without a termination. It was -lately the scene of great slaughter and distress, for the population -retired into it when pressed by the Khan of Orgunje; and as they issued -like bees from the hive, they were put to death or sent in perpetual -exile across the desert. - -~Approach to Meshid.~ - -Our arrival in Persia afforded the greatest source of joy to many of -the persons in the caravan, who, though natives of Bokhara, were yet -Shiahs. I thought that when we quitted that holy city, we should have -done with such sanctified spots; but the capital which we were now -approaching, Meshid i Mookuddus, the sacred Meshid, appeared, by every -account, to be even more holy than Bokhara. When we should behold its -gilded dome, I now heard that every one would fall down and pray. The -Persians here began to speak boldly of their creed, which they had so -long concealed; and the spirit of the place might now be discovered by -the tale of a person in the caravan, who was by no means illiterate. -A merchant, who had lately travelled to Meshid, overloaded one of his -camels, which fled, immediately on its reaching the city, to the shrine -of the holy Imam Ruza, and lowed out its complaints. The animal was -received, I presume, into the list of the faithful, since the priests -of the shrine added him to their flock, adorned him with housings -and bells, and gave him precedence of all other camels. The merchant -confessed his cruelty, sued for forgiveness, and was pardoned at the -sacrifice of his camel. To these and such tales an European must always -listen and wonder; for though we have asserted, on the authority of -the Koran itself, that the creed of the Mahommedan is not supported -by miracles, its votaries admit no such doctrine; and enumerate the -hundred thousand deviations from the laws of nature, which have -happened for the benefit of the Mahommedan church. I had ventured among -the Uzbeks to speak of the Koran and its contents, which I admitted -I had read in translation. “Fool that you are,” was the reply; “how -is it possible to transfer that holy book to another language, when -every letter of every word has a distinct and individual meaning, -that is only to be comprehended in the original?” I never afterwards -paraded my biblical research; for while I found my knowledge of their -Koran arraigned, I also heard, for the first time, that the Old and -New Testament were nowhere to be found but as an incorporation with -the Koran, since the copies of both Jews and Christians were vitiated -forgeries! The arts of the priests of Islam bring to our remembrance -the similar impositions of the Catholic church in by-gone ages. In -Europe, however, the churchmen did really understand the learned -language of the scriptures; but, among the Mahommedans, there are -Moollahs who can only read, while they do not understand their version. -There are of course many scholars, but there are distinct classes who -_do_ and _do not_ understand; nor do they hesitate to speak of their -learning or their ignorance, since the reading of the Koran is a -sublime occupation, that covers the worst of sins. - -~Tarantulla.~ - -~Adventure.~ - -We could not yet consider ourselves within the protection even of the -holy Meshid, which was thirty-eight miles from Moozderan; we therefore -moved at nightfall. In the bustle of departure I killed a huge reptile -of a “tarantulla,” or an enormous spider, crawling on my carpet. Its -claws looked like those of a scorpion, or small lobster, but the body -was that of a spider. I was assured of its poisonous nature, and the -natives insisted that it squirted its venom instead of stinging. We -were soon on the wing, and wound our way up the valley of the Tejend, -which was now a beautiful brook. We commenced our journey in terror, -and ere long met with an adventure that increased the rapidity of -our march. About midnight the braying of a donkey intimated to some -palpitating hearts that we were in the neighbourhood of human beings, -where none should exist. The shout of “Allaman, Allaman!” spread like -lightning; and the caravan, in a moment, assumed the appearance of a -regiment in open column, closing up in double march to form a square. -The foremost camels squatted instantly, and the others formed behind -them. Matches were lit on every side, swords were drawn, pistols -loaded, and the unhappy merchants capered in front of their goods, half -mad with fear and fury. The unarmed portion of the caravan took post -among the camels, which really formed a tolerable square, increased -as they were to the number of one hundred and twenty. The anxiety was -intense, it was general; the slaves were more terrified than the rest, -for they well knew the fate of capture by the Toorkmuns. After about a -quarter of an hour’s detention, one of the party discovered that the -Allamans, of whom we were standing in such awe, were a party of twenty -poor wandering Eimauks, who had been gathering die (boozghoom) on the -hills. They were more terrified than us, for their number made their -fate inevitable had we been Toorkmuns. Immediately the mistake was -discovered, a shout of delight raised the camels, and the caravan moved -on at double its usual speed, with seven or eight camels abreast; nor -did it stop at the prescribed halting-ground, but pushed on some eight -or ten miles farther when the day dawned. No sooner had we finished a -scanty meal than it was again in motion, and a little after mid-day -we reached Ghoozkan, the first inhabited village in Persia, and about -fourteen miles from Meshid. - -~Ghoozkan slaves.~ - -~Troubled country.~ - -We halted a few hours at Ghoozkan, and had an opportunity of observing -the supreme joy of the poor slaves, who had now reached their native -land in safety. Many of the merchants gave them clothes and money -to assist in their journey homewards, and it was with pleasure that -we joined in the charitable feelings of the caravan. A few ducats -purchased much happiness. Ghoozkan is peopled by Teimurees, a tribe -of Eimaks, and has a population of about a thousand souls. They were -a miserable looking set of beings, who used bandages as stockings, -and covered their heads with brown sheep-skin caps. The whole of the -inhabitants turned out to see us pass, and many of the poor creatures -asked, in melancholy strains, of the different passengers, if we -did not bring letters from their captive friends in Toorkistan. The -Toorkmuns seldom spare Ghoozkan in their forays; and the last party had -carried off six of their children, and put four of their peasants to -death. One wonders that human beings would consent to live in such a -spot. The circle of the villages around Meshid gets more circumscribed -yearly, and in the one which we first entered every field had its -tower, built by the cultivator, as a defence to which he might fly -on seeing the approach of a Toorkmun. What a state of society, that -requires the ploughshare and the sword in the same field! We loaded the -camels after a watch of night, and set out for Meshid, the gates of -which we reached long before the sun had risen, not more to our own joy -than that of the poor Persian slaves, who had performed every step of -the journey with a palpitating breast. - - - - -CHAP. XIV. - -KHORASAN. - - -~Arrival in Meshid.~ - -At dawn, on the morning of the 14th of September, we found our caravan -waiting, in anxious expectation, under the walls of Meshid. At sunrise -the keys of the gate were brought, which was at once thrown open to us. -A new scene burst upon our view, with a rapidity which one only sees -in theatrical representation. We had left a desert and the wandering -Toorkmuns, and now advanced, in stately order, through a crowded -city, arresting the notice of all the inhabitants. We had exchanged -the broad face and broader turbans of the Toork and Tartar for the -slim and long-faced Kuzzilbash, with a fur cap on his head, and his -ringlets curling up behind, who now stood idly looking at us, with his -hands in his pockets. The street which we entered was spacious and -handsome; an aqueduct passed through it, and its banks were shaded by -trees, while the splendid cupola and gilded minarets of the shrine -of Imam Ruza terminated the perspective. A hundred and twenty camels -passed up this avenue, and entered the spacious caravansarai of the -Uzbeks. We followed in course, and seated ourselves on the balcony of -the building, that we might the better observe the busy scene of the -area beneath us. The inundation had, however, filled this extensive -caravansarai, and we were necessitated to seek for an abode in a -humbler place, which we found hard by. - -The Prince Royal of Persia, Abbas Meerza, was now in the neighbourhood -of Meshid; and though this country had been visited by few Europeans, -we knew that there were British officers in his Royal Highness’s -service. I lost no time, therefore, in despatching an express to the -camp, which was about a hundred miles distant: but we were agreeably -surprised to receive a polite message from Mrs. Shee, the lady of -Captain Shee, who was then in Meshid; and it was equally pleasing to -have it conveyed by a messenger who spoke our own language, one of -the serjeants of the Prince’s army. During our stay in Meshid, we -found ourselves more comfortable than since we had left India, and -experienced many acts of civility and attention. We gladly changed the -barbarous custom of eating with our hands; and, though our fair hostess -was a Georgian, who only spoke Persian, we fancied ourselves once more -among the society of our country. - -~Interview with Khoosrou Meerza.~ - -I was soon astir to see the city of Meshid; and first visited the -ark, or citadel, where I was suddenly surprised by the presence of -Khoosrou Meerza, the son of the Prince, and the young man who had been -deputed to St. Petersburg on the massacre of the Russian ambassador, -now the acting governor of Meshid, while his father kept the field. He -appeared to have profited by his journey to Europe, and conversed with -me for an hour, asking much about our travels, and then jested on my -beard and dress, which he assured me would be a great curiosity in my -native land. He enquired whether I was a Catholic or a Protestant; and -recurred with wonder to our having reached Persia in safety. He begged -I would visit him on the following day, which I did not fail to do, -being favourably impressed with this the first specimen of the royal -house. I found the Prince next morning transacting business in the ark; -and the ceremonial of approaching this scion of royalty was as formal -as if he had been sovereign of the land. He is a most talkative person, -and gave me an account of his journey to Russia, speaking with the -highest encomiums of the education and polished manners of the ladies -in that country. One of his suite, who appeared to be a privileged -person, said, that his Highness could never be excused for having -returned to Persia without one of these angels. The Prince declared -that it was impossible, and referred it to me, who was in duty bound -to tell him, that a person of his rank might have married the most -illustrious. Khoosrou Meerza appeared to be about twenty-three years of -age. He has had, of course, great advantages over other Persians; but -I liked his capacity and his remarks. He asked me if the ancient art -of staining glass had been revived; if our progress in sculpture was -yet thought to rival Greece; and if the unicorn had been found in any -quarter of the world. He then enquired whether it was most difficult to -introduce discipline among irregular troops, or a new system of laws -and government in a country. “With Europeans,” he said, “every thing -is based on history and experience; but in Persia there are no such -guides. Persia, which held a supremacy before the age of Mahommed, has -now sunk into a state of torpor and bigotry, and has no literature but -the Koran. In Europe, there are those who study the Bible, as well as -those who are devoted to science: but,” added he, “there is very little -religion in Russia among the higher ranks with whom I associated.” I -must confess that I was pleased to hear the youth talk so learnedly, -since a knowledge of one’s ignorance is the first step to improvement. - -~Description of Meshid.~ - -I lost no time in visiting the city of Meshid; but I need not present a -diffuse or long account of it, since I find that there is both a minute -and correct one in Mr. Fraser’s admirable work on Khorasan.[6] The -holy city of Meshid surrounds the tomb of the Imam Ruza, the fifth in -descent from Ali, and three streets branch out in different directions -from the shrine. Two of them are wide and spacious, shaded by trees, -and enlivened by running water. A chain, drawn across the streets, -within a hundred yards of the shrine, encloses its bazar and the riches -of Meshid, and keeps out cattle and animals from the sanctified spot. -Here the hive has swarmed, for all other parts of Meshid are in ruins, -though its walls enclose a circuit of about seven miles. I cannot -rate its population at forty thousand souls. The greater portion of -the enclosed space is devoted to the use of a cemetery, since it is -believed that the dead may rest in peace near an Imam. There are also -shady gardens to please the living. The inhabitants of Meshid seem -to delight in burrowing in the ground; all the houses are entered by -a descent; and it is said, that the earth so scooped out has been -applied to the repairs and building of the house. The town is well -supplied with water from aqueducts and spacious cisterns. The natives -of Toorkistan will tell you, that the Imam Ruza removed to Meshid -on account of the wickedness of the people and the necessity for his -presence. The Uzbeks have a couplet, which states, “that if Meshid had -not its cerulean dome, it would be the common sewer of the world.”[7] -The Persians, on the other hand, describe it, in poetical language, -as “the most enlightened spot on the face of the earth, for there are -the rays of the Creator of the world.”[8] Who will judge between the -parties? At Bokhara, a Shiah is a Soonee; at Meshid, a Soonee wishes to -be thought a Shiah. - -~Shrine of Imam Ruza.~ - -I paid an early visit to his holy shrine; for I experienced in my -peregrinations through Meshid none of the bigotry or jealousy which -seem so constantly to have beset Mr. Fraser. About the centre of the -city the sepulchre rests under a gilded dome, which is rivalled by twin -minarets of burnished gold, that shed resplendent light in the rays -of the sun. A spacious mosque of azure blue rears a loftier dome and -minarets close to the tomb, and was built by Gohur Shah, a descendant -of the illustrious Timour. The pilgrim who visits this shrine must -first travel the bazar and cross the chain, when he enters a sanctuary, -which no crime admits of being violated. He then proceeds under a lofty -archway, and finds himself within a spacious quadrangle, the work of -the great Abbas, which is a resting-place for the living and the dead. -It is surrounded by small apartments, like a caravansary, which is a -“madrissu,” or college, and the pavement is formed of tombstones, that -cover the remains of those whose devotion and wishes have led to their -being here interred. The arches and sides of the area are ornamented -with a painted tile, not unlike enamel, which has a chaste and rich -appearance. On the western side of the square lies the entrance to the -shrine, which leads under a lofty Gothic arch, of the richest gilding. -It is further adorned by mirrors let into the wall, and illuminated -after sunset by tapers suspended from the roof. Beyond this threshold -an infidel may not pass but in disguise, and my judgment conquered my -curiosity. I might have escaped in the crowd; but I might have been -discovered, though I learn that the beauties of the place deserve a -risk. The richness increases the fervency of the pilgrim’s devotion, -who enters it by a gate of silver; and the tomb is said to be shielded -from the touch of the profane by railings of steel and brass, on which -plates of silver and wood, with blessings and prayers carved upon them, -are suspended. Innumerable lamps of gold hang over the grave, which -are lit upon the “eed” and the holidays of the saints, to honour the -festival and enable the priests to display with advantage the riches -and jewels that pious individuals have consecrated at this shrine. -On the side opposite the entrance is the beautiful mosque of Gohur -Shah; and here I walked without timidity. It is a fine specimen of -architecture, and the arch, in which the “mihrab,” or niche towards -Mecca, is placed, is superbly adorned and most chastely executed. It is -beautified by lofty blue minarets on either side, which rise in rich -effect and grandeur. - -~Grave of Nadir Shah.~ - -Meshid has no buildings but its shrine. There are some colleges and -a spacious and unfinished caravansary, with twenty-one others in -different parts of the city; but still it is the burial-place of -the great Nadir Shah. His grave, now dishonoured and marked by the -ruins of the edifice that once sheltered it from the elements, is -one of the most interesting sights to a traveller. What a field for -rumination in such a spot! The fountains and flowers which encircled -it have disappeared; the peach-tree, which put forth its blossom on -the returning spring, has fallen under the axe, and the willows and -cypresses have been torn down. In their place a crop of turnips had -been sown by some industrious citizen. Shade of Nadir, what a change -is here! he who shook the kingdoms of the East, has been denied in -death the small quadrangle of a garden, which the affection of sons -had hallowed to the merit of a parent. This is the reward of him who -delivered his country from a foreign usurper, and who studied his -country’s good: but the well-being of a state does not necessarily -comprehend the well-being of _all_ its members. Nadir aimed the blows -of despotism at the family which has succeeded to his empire, and he -maimed the successful individual, who seized upon his kingdom and -ejected his sons. Aga Mahommed Khan Khoju was mutilated in his youth -by Nadir; but he retained the feelings of a man, and dug up the bones -of the conqueror, in revenge for his disgrace. Report adds, that he -sent them to Tehran, and placed them under the step which leads to the -audience hall, that the courtiers and every one might trample upon -them. We can readily comprehend the chagrin of a monarch who was not a -man; and if his wrath excites our contempt, it enlists our sympathy. -A eunuch himself, he spared his country from those banes of a palace. -There are still some of Nadir’s descendants living in Meshid; but they -are blind and in destitute circumstances. My informant told me that -they often applied to him for bread. - -~Illumination.~ - -We soon received a reply to our communication from the Prince Royal’s -camp, and were invited to pay our respects to Abbas Meerza, who had -just captured the fortress of Koochan, which was said to be one of -the strongest in Persia. The intelligence of its fall was received in -Meshid with great enthusiasm, and followed by an illumination of three -successive nights: for no monarch since the days of Nadir had ever -subdued the chiefs of Khorasan. We dined _à la Perse_ with Abdool, our -old travelling friend, who is a merchant in Meshid, and then proceeded -to view the illumination. Among the devices, I most admired the shop of -a butcher, who had illuminated eight or ten sheep, by placing lights -behind their fat and tallow, which he had cut into delicate stripes. I -gave him credit for his ingenuity, if he kept his meat from roasting. -In one street I saw an effigy dangling in the air, which I, of course, -set down as the Koord chief who had been captured at Koochan; but this -was no other person than the accursed Omar. It must have edified the -Soonees to witness the holy caliph between earth and heaven; but I had -none of my Bokhara acquaintances to give me their comments. Besides the -effigy on the gibbet, we had a real exhibition of a man suspended from -a beam laid across the street, and that, too, in a blaze of light. How -the contrivance was made I did not discover; for he had a rope round -his neck, and kicked and acted to reality. As the crowd gazed on this -curious exhibition, a wag fixed eight or ten tapers to the head of a -butting ram, and let him loose among the assembly, where he forced his -way as well by his horns as the lights that crowned him. Altogether the -scene approached much nearer a genuine British illumination than I had -ever expected to see in Asia. - -We now prepared for our journey to camp, and took leave of all our -Bokhara acquaintances and friends; visiting most of them at the -caravansary, where we had a parting cup of tea. Many of the slaves came -to see us, and we now hailed them as freemen. I was sorry to bid adieu -to Ernuzzer the Toorkmun; but I gave him a letter to the Vizier of -Bokhara; and, as it contained all the news of Khorasan, he seemed proud -to be its bearer, and was anxious to set out on his return. We had now -less fear of being thought rich; so we clothed our friend in a dress, -and amply rewarded him for his services. I stuck a pistol in his girdle -as he was leaving; and, though of the coarsest manufacture, it seemed a -mighty gift to a Toorkmun. I had also to prepare a variety of letters -to our friends in Toorkistan, to whom I was pledged to write. I did -not require such a pledge: for at a distance from them, and many more -of our friends on this side the Indus, I remembered innumerable acts -of kindness which had contributed to our comfort and happiness while -living among them, which I could not now forget. In Meshid, perhaps, -our feelings were more pleasing than in any part of the journey; for -we had the prospect of soon seeing our countrymen, and the rest of our -undertaking was, comparatively speaking, easy. We could now dress in -respectable and clean clothes, without being called on to pay for our -comforts. - -~Departure from Meshid.~ - -After a week’s stay at Meshid, we quitted it on the 23d of September, -and marched up the valley of the Meshid river to Ameerabad, a distance -of forty miles. It was dark before we reached the stage, and we were -benighted; we therefore spread our felts in a field, and bivouacked -through the night. We espied the lights of some travellers near us, and -they sold us wheat, with which we fed our ponies. About twelve miles -from Meshid, we passed the ruins of Toose, which is the ancient capital -of Khorasan; but the inhabitants have transferred themselves to Meshid. -The valley of this river is rich; and it was pleasant to see extensive -fields, in a dry country, watered by irrigation. Ameerabad, which we -did not see, is a strong fortress, and was captured by the Prince, -about a month before we arrived, after a siege of five weeks. It is -situated in the district of Chinaran. - -~Koochan.~ - -We continued our progress up the valley for sixty miles, and reached -Koochan on the third day of our leaving Meshid. This is said to be -the coldest part of Khorasan; and it may well be believed, when the -thermometer fell to 29° at sunrise in September. As water boiled at -206°, we were about 4000 feet above the sea. The valley varied in -breadth from twelve to twenty miles, and there were some verdant -spots under the hills, where the finest fruit is produced. Otherwise -the country was bare and bleak. The hills have no wood, and are even -destitute of brushwood. They rise to the height of 2000 or 3000 feet -above the valley. We passed many villages by the way; but they were now -deserted, on account of the war against the Koords. The roads were hard -and excellent. We met many of the soldiers returning to their homes, -since the campaign had terminated. They were a favourable specimen -of the troops of Khorasan; for they were provided with arms that had -serviceable flint locks, which I had not seen since leaving Cabool. The -men were small, but they were merely the “Eeljaree,” or militia of the -country. - -~Camp of the Prince.~ - -~European officers.~ - -We reached the camp of Abbas Meerza a little before noon, and found -ourselves once more in European society. So complete was our disguise, -that we had to make ourselves known, though we were expected. We sat -down to breakfast with Captain Shee, Mr. Barowski, and Mr. Beek, -who now compose the corps of officers in the Prince’s service. How -delighted did we feel to hear our native language, and learn the news -and events which had been passing in our protracted absence! We had -arrived at an eventful moment, as the fortress had but a few days -fallen, and we yet threaded our way among fascines and gabions, sap, -mines, outworks, batteries, covert ways, and all the other works of -a besieging army. Nothing could be more gloomy than the walls of the -town. The parapet had been nearly dismantled; some of the towers had -been blown up; all were battered; and the soldiery, now relieved from -the dangers of the campaign, were filling up the ditch in listless -idleness. This fosse was a barrier of a most formidable nature; -for it was about thirty-five feet deep and twenty broad, though it -narrowed towards the bottom. The Prince’s army had effected a lodgment -across it; and a few more hours would have settled the fate of the -fortress, when its chief surrendered at discretion. Koochan is a strong -fortress, about a mile and a half in circumference, and was defended -by a garrison of 8000 men. The assault would have been attended with -bloodshed, and its fall is entirely to be attributed to the European -officers, whose science and skill had been grafted on the labour and -exertion of the Persians. - -~Introduction to Abbas Meerza.~ - -In the evening, we were introduced to the Prince Royal, by Captain -Shee. His Royal Highness was proceeding to inspect his park of -artillery, and we met him by the way. He received us in a most engaging -and affable manner; offered us his congratulations at the great success -of our journey through countries which he had not believed accessible -to Europeans. He then assured us, that our troubles were at an end, -since we had reached a land where our nation was respected. I thanked -the Prince for his kindness, and then briefly replied to the various -questions which he put regarding the countries we had visited. By -this time we were standing in front of his artillery, while the whole -of his court were about fifty yards in rear of us. The Prince gave a -signal, and about six or eight persons advanced. He introduced two of -them as his sons; another as Ruza Koli Khan, the conquered chief of the -proud fortress. There was also another Koord chief; and Yar Mahommed -Khan, the minister of Herat. What a sight did the great Koord chief -present to us, now standing in homage before his conqueror and the -artillery which had subdued him. It appears that the parade had been -ordered, to give him a sight of the park, and we had arrived at the -opportune time to witness the spectacle. The Prince, turning towards -me, said, “You must see my artillery;” and we then passed down the -line with his Royal Highness, examining each gun as we approached it. -Abbas Meerza took great pains to explain every thing concerning them; -and the enquiries and looks of the unfortunate Ruza Koli Khan drew -forth many a smiling remark. The chief appeared bewildered, and I -thought he feigned insanity. He asked the Prince to give him a large -mortar, which we were all admiring; Abbas Meerza told him not now to -trouble himself about these things. The guns, which had fallen with the -fortress, were drawn up in line, with the other artillery; they were -Russian ordnance, cast in 1784, and had been captured from the present -King of Persia. The Koord chief pretended not to recognise them; and, -when he heard of their history, made a just enough remark, that they -were good enough for Koochan. In the place of this chief, I should -have considered it no dishonour to be subdued by a park of thirty-five -guns, from four to 32-pounders, in the best state of efficiency. The -Prince then witnessed the exercise of the corps; bearing the amplest -testimony to the merits of Captain Lindsay (now Sir Henry Bethune), -the British officer who had organised it, and of whom he spoke with -kindness. The ceremony then terminated, and we retired from the scene -with much gratification at an interview with a Charles the Second in -Persia. I was disappointed in Abbas Meerza’s appearance. He has been -handsome, but is now haggard, and looks an old man; he has lost his -erect carriage, his eye waters, and his cheek is wrinkled. He was -plainly dressed, and walked with a stick in his hand. His eldest son, -Mahommed Meerza, was present; but he has not the manners or dignity of -his parent, though he is also an agreeable person. - -~Interview with Abbas Meerza.~ - -On the following morning we paid our respects to the Prince Royal in -his tents, and found him transacting business with his minister, the -Kaim Mukam, and several other persons who were standing round him. -There was no state or pomp to mark so great a personage. When the -Prince had settled some matters on which he was engaged, he gave us a -dose of politics, and talked of the incomparable advantages to England -of upholding Persia, and begged I would explain in my own country his -present situation; which, though at the head of a successful army, -was most embarrassing, since he had no money to pay it. I told the -Prince that I regretted to hear such a detail of his difficulties, -and I could only hope that he would surmount them all. I did not tell -him, as I have ever felt, that I consider the payment of money to such -a cabinet as derogatory to the name and honour of Britain; since it -has tended more to lower our reputation in Asia than our most martial -deeds in India have done to raise it. There was not, however, wanting -a share of cant in the Prince’s oration; for he gravely assured me -that he had now taken the field to suppress the sale and capture of -his subjects as slaves by the Uzbeks. The motive was praiseworthy; but -mark the conclusion:--“I am entitled, therefore, to the assistance of -Britain: for if you expend annually thousands of pounds in suppressing -the slave trade in Africa, I deserve your aid in this quarter, where -the same motives exist for the exercise of your philanthropy.” I was -pleased with the ingenuity and earnestness of the reasoning, which -his Royal Highness had, no doubt, derived from some English newspaper -or English friend. The Prince now turned to other matters, and asked -regarding my education, and the notes which I had taken of the unknown -country I had visited. “I am aware of your custom to do so,” said -he; “and it is this general observance of it which has exalted your -nation in the scale of civilisation.” He enquired if I had met with -any potatoes in my travels; and, on my replying in the negative, he -produced a basketful of his own rearing, with evident satisfaction. -They were a fair specimen, and do most decidedly entitle his Royal -Highness to be elected an honorary member of a horticultural society. -In the true spirit of a courtier, the Prince returned to the Uzbeks -and the different countries of Toorkistan with which he thought me -best acquainted. He asked, if I had met with any explanation of those -passages in the History of Timour, where the undermining of a tower is -described, and its then being destroyed by fire. I was not prepared -for such a question, and mentioned the Greek fire used at the siege of -Constantinople, and the circumstance of Timour’s vicinity to China, -where it is believed that the art of making gunpowder was then known. -I had not at this time heard that the undermined towers were supported -by wooden frameworks, which, when set fire to, ceased to support the -bastion, and it consequently fell. I next replied to the Prince’s -queries regarding the customs of the Uzbeks. He smiled at their -abomination of tobacco; since they sold it publicly, and mentioned that -the servants of an envoy, whom he had lately received from Orgunje, -caught the smoke as it came out of their master’s mouth. I had not -seen such barbarism in Bokhara. When I related to the Prince the -spiritual notions of the Uzbeks, and some instances of their hearing -witness against themselves, he related to us a similar occurrence in -the life of Ali:--A female, who was _enceinte_, called for death, as -an atonement for her sins. The Caliph desired her to appear when her -offspring was born. She did so, and again accused herself; and he gave -the command for her being stoned to death, but prohibited every one -from lifting a stone who was in the least impure. The Caliph put the -woman to death himself. I told his Royal Highness that I regretted I -had not heard the tale, that I might have replied to the Uzbeks. The -Prince then requested me to give him some notes on the resources of -the country about Shurukhs, which he shortly intended to visit. I gave -them without hesitation. Abbas Meerza, during this interview, spoke -of geography and mathematics by these names, and evinced a tolerable -proficiency in the first of these sciences. He spoke of New Holland; -but he did not enlighten me on one of his favourite plans, by which -he purposes to consign all his brothers and nephews to that country -on his accession to the crown.[9] Never was any thing more visionary. -I now intimated my wishes to prosecute my journey among the Toorkmun -tribes to the Caspian Sea; and the Prince, with great urbanity, assured -me that I might visit any portion of the Persian dominions. He spoke -of the danger of journeying among Toorkmuns; but desired his secretary -to prepare a “rukum,” or order, which would ensure protection, and -suggested our accompanying a Khan, who was proceeding in that quarter. -He also offered a letter to his brother, the Prince of Mazanderan, and -had it intimated to his son, who was then in his camp, that I would -proceed in that quarter. We then took our leave of Abbas Meerza, much -gratified by the interview. I cannot say that I was strongly impressed -with his talents; but they evidently rise above mediocrity, and he is -said to be swayed in his councils by others; he is, in every sense of -the word, a perfect gentleman. - -~Acquaintances.~ - -In the Persian camp we had many visiters, and found much to amuse us -in the bustling scene. We found two of the Persian gentlemen, who had -been in England, Meerza Baba, the Hukeem Bashee, and Meerza Jaffier, -both of whom now sighed for the return of the days which they had -passed in England. There, they were _lions_: here, they were among -their countrymen. Meerza Baba is an intelligent and agreeable man; and, -in an Asiatic, I have never seen a more perfect approach to an English -gentleman, both in language and manners. I jested with him about Hajee -Baba; but that work has given great offence in Persia, and the Hukeem -Bashee assured me that the English did not understand the Persians. I -can hardly agree with him, for I afterwards saw a good deal of Hajee -Babaism in the land. - -~Future plans. Separation from Dr. Gerard.~ - -Since we had entered Khorasan my fellow-traveller, Dr. Gerard, had -come to the resolution of turning down upon Herat, and Candahar, -and thus retraceing his steps to Cabool, in preference to advancing -upon the Caspian. The main object of our journey had been now nearly -accomplished, and the route of Herat, which promised him some -gratification, had been travelled in safety by Lieutenant Arthur -Conolly[10], an enterprising officer of the Bengal Cavalry, and all -the French officers of Runjeet Sing. We now, therefore, prepared -to separate, after a weary pilgrimage of nine months which we had -performed together. Our feelings on such an occasion may be imagined; -but we parted with the knowledge, that we had almost brought the -original design of our undertaking to a close, and that both to the -east and west all serious dangers were at an end. At Koochan I also -permitted the Hindoo lad to return to India, along with Dr. Gerard; -and, at his own request, I discharged my faithful Afghan servant, who -had accompanied me from Lodiana. His name was Sooliman, a native of -Peshawur. He was quite unlettered; but he had kept both my secrets -and my money where there were many inducements to betray. He had -proved himself worthy of my confidence; and the feelings with which I -parted from him were those of unmingled approbation and regard. By the -opportunity which presented itself I wrote to all our native friends in -Cabool, and even to Runjeet Sing himself. It would be presumptuous to -believe that the many titled personages I addressed were my friends, -though their professions had been great: but, if the rulers and -governors of countries and cities be set aside, there was yet a long -list of good and worthy men as correspondents, whose good wishes, I -do not hesitate to say, I desire. It will not be out of place to name -the individuals I addressed on this occasion, since we experienced -civilities and kindness from all. - - Koosh Begee, of Bokhara. - Sirdar Dost Mahommed Khan, of Cabool. - Nuwab Jubbar Khan, of Cabool. - Sirwur Khan Lohanee, of Cabool, at Bokhara. - Sirdar Sooltan Mahommed Khan, of Peshawur. - Peer Mahommed Khan,} - Saed Mahommed Khan,} his brothers. - Moorad Ali Khan Nazir, of Peshawar. - Ghoolam Kadir Khan,} - Meer Alum, } Sons of Cazee Moolah Hoosun. - Toghy Hosn Caboolee, of Lodiana. - Shere Mahommed Khan (his son), Bokhara. - Moollah Ruheem Shah Cashmeeree, Cabool. - Naib Mahommed Shureef, Cabool. - Mean Fuzil huq Sahibzadu, Peshawur. - Meean Sado Deen, Peshawur. - Maharaja Runjeet Sing, Lahore. - Sirdar Lenu Sing, Majeetia. - Sirdar Huree Singat, Attok. - Meerza Saeed ibn Yar Mahommed Balkhee, Bokhara. - - - - -CHAP. XV. - -JOURNEY AMONG THE TOORKMUNS OF THE CASPIAN. - - -~Departure from Koochan.~ - -On the 29th of September, I bade farewell to my fellow-traveller and -the officers of the Prince’s service, and commenced a journey to -the shores of the Caspian. I joined Humza Khan, who had been lately -appointed Governor of the Toorkmuns east of that sea, and now proceeded -with a party of about three hundred persons, composed of Koords, -Persians, and Toorkmuns; but the alarms for personal safety, which -had so often troubled me in days that were gone, had now, I may say, -vanished, for I looked upon all those around me as friends. My costume -led to many mistakes among the party; and, after I had satisfied the -Khan that I was the “Firingee” recommended to his care by the Prince, -I felt rather disposed to mix with the others as one of themselves, -since a better opportunity would be afforded for judging of the people. -We bivouacked, after a march of twenty-six miles, beyond Shirwan, a -strong fortress, with a deep wet ditch, that was now being dismantled -by orders of the Prince. From the small number of labourers engaged on -this work of spoliation, I suppose it will be soon abandoned, and that -the place will rise in due time as one of the strong-holds of Khorasan. - -~Atruck River. Boojnoord.~ - -We followed the course of the Atruck river, which rises near Koochan, -till within ten miles of Boojnoord, when we left it running westward -as a small rivulet, and crossed several mountain ridges. A march of -thirty-eight miles brought us to Boojnoord, a rather large place, -standing in a spacious valley, and the residence of one of the Koord -chiefs, who prudently tendered his allegiance on the approach of the -Prince, and now owed the possession of his fortress to his share of -discretion. We here saw, for the first time, the wandering inhabitants, -or Ilyats, of Khorasan, about a thousand of whose black tents were -scattered around. They did not appear to differ from the Ghiljees -of Cabool. On our march to Boojnoord we met the peasantry crowding -in bodies to occupy their native villages. They had fled on the -commencement of the war, and now returned on the success of the Prince: -the poor creatures stopped to ask the particulars of the campaign; -but the women and children could hardly believe us any other than -plundering Koords. The year had passed away without a crop; but, if -the country returns to a state of peace, it may yet become prosperous -and happy. War has desolating effects everywhere; but it is fearful -to be befriended by a Persian army. The enemy who opposes it fares -best, since he has no billets sent to him for grain and supplies; the -pittance of the obedient subject is actually devoured. - -~Toorkmun discipline.~ - -Four miles from Boojnoord, we left the valley in which it is situated, -and entered among hills. It was difficult to trace any range either -to our right or left, but those on the south were covered with pine -trees. The climate was moist and pleasant, and there were many rich and -beautiful spots of cultivation among the bare hills. The vineyards of -Sarewan, which were in a deep glen, are quite enchanting. Though the -country was mountainous, the road was excellent; and, after a march of -thirty-six miles, we reached Kila Khan, in the district of Simulghan, -which is richly watered from the hills. We were now upon the line of -inroad of the Tuka Toorkmuns, who engage in constant forays between -Meshid and Tehran; and the mountains and roads over which we trod must -ever be crossed by them. Our own party, however, consisted of two -hundred Toorkmuns of the Goklan and Yamood tribe, who had served in -the Prince’s army, and were now discharged: such was their share of -the glories of the Khorasan campaign. We had had a specimen of their -native propensities in our second march from the camp, where they met a -party of villagers proceeding to sell their grapes. The poor peasants -were mercilessly beaten, and the Toorkmuns pillaged the greater portion -of the contents of their baskets. By the laws of an enlightened -country, they might not have been blameable, if they were actually in -want of food. The spoil was shared equally among them, and he who had -knocked down fared no better than he who was in the rear: they even -brought me a share of the captured property. It was in vain that the -Khan endeavoured to discountenance these practices, for he possessed -no authority over them. At length they received a salutary check at -Sarewan, where the villagers turned out in a body, and knocked down a -trespasser, which frightened his comrades. I secretly rejoiced at their -discomfiture. - -~Travelling in Khorasan.~ - -What a long Fursukh is that of Khorasan, says a traveller, who has -toiled from sun-rise nearly to sun-set, and who can no longer cling to -his jaded horse, but by the prong in front of his saddle. An European, -who canters and gallops onwards, can form no just conception of the -fatigue of a forty-mile stage in Khorasan, where every step must be -walked, and there is no inn or refreshment at the end of it. “By the -head of the Prophet!” said one of the party, as we neared our halting -ground, “this road is longer than the entrails of Omar, for my back and -my knees have lost their feeling.” I had a hearty laugh at the quaint -comparison, and also sympathized in his fatigue. “Pidr sokhtu!” (Burn -his father!) continued the talkative Persian, “I never was so worn -out.” In our party we had several lively fellow-travellers; and, on a -few days’ acquaintance, the Persian appeared to me a better sort of -being in his country than abroad, where his vanity is beyond endurance. - -~Tribe of Gireilee.~ - -A march of thirty-eight miles brought us to the site of a village -called Shahbaz; but we had now lost all traces of inhabitants, though -the country was rich. The tribe of Gireilee had in former years tilled -the soil, and tended their cattle: but human beings appear to be -considered in these countries as much property as horse-flesh; and Aga -Mahommed Khan had transferred the whole race to Mezenderan. The rich -pastures of the country lay neglected: for what peasant would seek his -abode near the Tuka Toorkmuns, whose tents lie but a few miles distant -beyond the hills. In the society of two hundred of these people, we -even did not feel ourselves altogether safe. In all our bivouacs, -I had hitherto escaped the damp ground as a bed, but I rose in the -morning stiff and benumbed by humidity and dews. The sun soon dried -my clothes, and good spirits (I do not mean brandy) prevented any evil -consequences. We were now travelling among mountains, with alternate -hill and dale, and over a wild and romantic country. There were a few -stunted pine trees on the hills, but they were oftener bare of every -thing but grass. All the people were kind and conversable; and man -requires little else even in the arid regions of Khorasan. - -~A Toorkmun acquaintance.~ - -A Toorkmun who had proffered his acquaintance, by the way asked me -abruptly to tell him the news of Bokhara, recognising, I suppose, in my -costume the dress of that country. He addressed me in Persian, which -was no doubt as foreign a language to him as myself. “I am a Firingee,” -said I; when the Toorkmun pulled up his horse, and said, “Come, do not -think you can play the fool with me, for Firingees have no beards; -and your shaved head and dress belie your assertion.” It was in vain -that I continued to convince him of my real character. “Soonee, or -Shiah, which are you?” said he. “Be it so,” replied I, “since you are -determined to have me a Mahommedan;” and I repeated the names of the -first four Caliphs, the watchword of the Soonees and Toorkmuns, who are -all of that persuasion. “Bravo!” cried my new acquaintance; “I knew I -was right;” and we journeyed together with great delight, I personating -a character which had been forced upon me: nor was it sufficient that -my creed was settled; the Toorkmun also fixed my country, which was -Cabool. I did not allow the opportunity to pass which thus presented -itself of improving my knowledge of the Toorkmuns, whose lands we were -once more to enter. - -~Running down partridges.~ - -My friend dashed off with great precipitation among a crowd of his -countrymen, to run down a “kubk,” or partridge, which rose near us. -This is an easier matter than would be at first imagined, as the number -captured soon proved. These birds fly once or twice, seldom thrice, -and are then picked up. The Toorkmuns were delighted with the sport, -and I participated in their excitement, though I did not join in it. -The long spears with which they were armed, their great activity, and -the horsemanship which they displayed, gave what I imagined to be a -just resemblance to their “chupao,” when in search of human beings. -At a gallop, a Toorkmun cavalier leans forward on his saddle, which -gives him an air of eagerness that is singularly interesting. The whole -scene was worthy of the ancient Parthia, the very country that we now -traversed. - -~A Toorkmun bard.~ - -Among the Toorkmuns I noticed an individual loitering by the way, and -humming some notes as he went, to which his leg and his arm seemed to -be keeping time, while an instrument like a “sitar,” or lute, served to -convince me that I had at last got hold of a character for whom I had -been searching--a bard of the Toorkmuns. “Sulam alaikoom,” said I to -the bard; who returned it most graciously. But, alas! our conversation -here ended, for he knew no language but Toorkee, and my acquaintance -was but sufficient to tell him that I knew it not. Instinct set the -bard to the task which I wished; and he struck up one of the airs of -his tribe; but the paces of our horses did not admit of his using his -instrument. Music is an expensive accomplishment in all countries; and -the bard began to interrogate me as to his reward, hinting that he must -not be wasting his arts in vain. An interpreter between us informed him -that he should have a good pilao in the evening; but the Toorkmun gave -a glance behind him, and asked who would cook the pilao for a man who -had not even a servant. Here was a hint to travel in state. The bard -dropped in the rear to ask who I might be; and I did have the pleasure -in the evening of giving him a pilao, and removing his doubts of my -solvency. For this I had a promise of introduction to the minstrels of -his clan. - -~Goklan Toorkmuns.~ - -Six miles from Shahbaz we took leave of the hill and dale which we -had so long traversed, and descended into a valley, which contained -the source of the river of Goorgan. For about twenty miles we wound -gradually through it, without the smallest marks of civilisation: but -our day’s journey terminated among the tenements of the Toorkmuns, -which I was delighted once more to behold. These people are of the -tribe of Goklan, and amount to about nine thousand families. No scene -could be more enchanting than that on which we had now entered: the -hills were wooded to the summit, and the hue of the different trees was -so varied and bright, as hardly to appear natural. A rivulet flowed -through the dell; and almost every fruit grew in a state of nature. The -fig, the vine, pomegranate, raspberry, black currant, and the hazel, -shot up everywhere; and, as we approached the camp of the Toorkmuns, -there were extensive plantations of the mulberry. The different groups -of tents were pitched in grotesque order in the open lawn near the -river; and our party halted at one of their settlements on a beautiful -shelf of green turf, that lay at the base of a cloud-capped hill, -clothed with the richest foliage. The Toorkmuns received their new -Governor with every respect, and appropriated a certain number of -their tents for his accommodation: one of these was kindly bestowed on -me; and I now found myself for the first time since leaving India (I -except the camp of Abbas Meerza) under the shelter of a tent, and that -too among the Toorkmuns. I also received buttered cakes and melons, as -their guest, and fared sumptuously. - -~Customs of the Toorkmuns.~ - -On winding through the valley, we had an opportunity of witnessing an -interesting sight in the welcoming of a chief, or “Aksukal,” who had -accompanied us from Koochan. We had only known him as a Wild Toorkmun; -and, for my own part, I had scarcely noticed him: but here he was a -noble, and, what is greater, a patriarch. He had been summoned by the -Prince Royal, and now returned to his home. For miles before reaching -the camp, the Toorkmuns crowded upon us to bid him welcome: all of them -were on horseback--men, women, and children; and several of them cried, -as they kissed his hand. At length, in a shady and picturesque part of -the valley, a party, which appeared more respectable than the others, -had dismounted and drawn up. This was the family of the chief: he -leaped upon the ground with the enthusiasm of a youth, rushed forward, -and kissed in succession four boys, who were his sons. The scene was -pathetic; and the witty Persians, who had before been imitating some -of the actions and exclamations of the Toorkmuns, were silenced by -this fervent flow of affection. Three of the boys were under ten years -of age, yet they mounted their horses with spirit, and joined the -cavalcade. There were no bells to ring the peals of joy which this -day pervaded the Goklan Toorkmuns: nor were they required to give -more certain indication of their delight. A party of their countrymen -had returned in safety from battle; the clan had gathered from every -quarter; and, as they took up their position in the rear, they gave to -us, who were indifferent spectators, the cordial salutation of friends. -The women said, “Koosh geldee” (You are welcome), and crossed their -hands on their breasts, as we passed them, in token of sincerity: -I never witnessed a scene of more universal joy. A horseman, more -delighted than the rest, appeared with his horse sinking under a load -of bread, which he distributed in cakes to every one he met, with this -remark:--“Take this, it is good in the sight of God: take it, you are -a guest and a stranger.” It was impossible to look on such scenes with -an eye of indifference; and could I but give in more graphic language -the scenes of this day among the Toorkmuns, it would excite the warmest -emotion: and yet I speak of the lawless Toorkmuns, who plunder and -desolate the land: so true is it, that the character of mankind is -made up of the most glaring inconsistencies and contradictions. - -~Toorkmuns of the Caspian.~ - -The Khan whom I had accompanied, was now busily engaged in the -duties of his new occupation. He was the harbinger of good news to -the Toorkmuns: for they, who plunder every one, had been themselves -plundered by the Mezenderan troops, who had proceeded to join the army -through their territories. The Prince had ordered a register of their -losses to be communicated; and our Khan moved from camp to camp as a -welcome visiter. I continued with him for four days, which I passed in -pleasing observation of Toorkmun habits and customs. No opportunity -could have been more favourable to the purpose, since we were every -where well received by them; and I appeared in the suite of a great -man. The tribe of Goklan Toorkmuns is subject to Persia, which has -asserted its supremacy for the last thirty-six years. Their allegiance -is unwilling, but it is complete; for they have exchanged the habits -of rapine for the peaceful vocation of agriculture. They want the -affluence and comfort which I have described among the Toorkmuns of -Shurukhs. The Yamood tribe, which lies between them and the Caspian, -have been also subdued by Persia; but the greater number of that clan, -which is said to amount to twenty thousand families, enables them -frequently to resist and rebel. The Goklans, however, have no political -power. The Tuka Toorkmuns, which skirt, to the north, both these tribes -that I have named, maintain their independence of Persia. The customs -of the Toorkmuns do not differ from those about Bokhara, only that they -more nearly resemble citizens. The women conceal the face below the -mouth; though I cannot say that the personal charms of those whom I -saw during our stay here would induce even a forward youth to sue for -a kiss, or a sight of their ruby lips. Their dress more assimilates to -that of Persia than those of the desert. - -~A Toorkmun patriarch.~ - -In our travels from one tenement to another, I met a man of about sixty -years of age, who first attracted my notice, by observing every one -dismount as he advanced, and proceed to kiss his hand; for which he -gave his blessing. This was a Syud of the Toorkmuns. A Persian, who -had observed my watchful attention to what was passing, called out -to the aged man that I was an European; and we were soon engaged in -conversation. He held the unpromising name of Mahommed Ghilich, or the -“Sword of Mahommed;” but the universal respect bestowed upon him had -softened his manners; and age had mellowed his voice: his sentiments, -too, were pleasing. He asked if all Franks were Christians; and when -I told him they were, he said, “It is well to follow our own creed: a -Jew, a Christian, a Mahommedan, will be one in death.” Our conversation -then turned upon the Toorkmuns; and he lamented their sale of human -beings, since a difference of religion afforded no just grounds for -such cruelty. “It was a propensity of their race,” said he; “for their -dispositions were wicked, and they listened not to his advice. But am -I speaking to a ‘Firingee?’” said the aged man, abruptly interrupting -himself; “I have never before seen one; and how should I in so remote -a country. Where is the country of the Franks; and where is the desert -of the Toorkmuns? There must be something peculiar in our destiny,” -continued he to muse aloud with himself, “which has brought you and -me together. Our spirits (roh) must have had intercourse in another -world, to meet in this;” which was a singular remark. After travelling -together for about three miles, we stopped at a mound of earth which -had a pole stuck in the centre, and several of which we had already -seen. “What is this?” enquired I. “It is called a _Yoozka_; and marks -the place where some one has died or been laid out as a corpse. The -Toorkmuns say a blessing as they pass the spot, and hope for the favour -of the deceased. It is an old custom among us, and you will see many -others as you advance.” They are not graves, but mounds or barrows -raised in honour of the dead. I entertain an impression that the usage -is Tatar; but I had no opportunity of further investigation. The -venerable Syud was crossing to the top of a neighbouring hill, where -was his home and six sons. He clasped my hand, blessed me, wished me a -safe journey to my country; and consigning me to God, according to the -custom of the people, we parted. - -~Noble scenery.~ - -At length we cleared the valley of the Goorgan river, and debouched -upon the plain eastward of the Caspian. The landscape was very -imposing. To our left, the hills, now running in a range, rose up to a -great height, clad to the summit with forest trees and foliage. To our -right, the extensive plains, which are watered by the rivers Atruk and -Goorgan, and richly verdant, were studded with innumerable encampments -of Toorkmuns, and diversified by flocks and herds. In our front, at a -distance, we descried the lofty mountains of Elboorz, that seemed to -shut up an otherwise boundless plain. Such a scene would have delighted -any one; much more a wanderer from the deserts of Scythia. - -The Khan, before I took my departure, gratified my curiosity on -the subject of Toorkmun minstrelsy, by sending two “Bukhshees,” or -Bards, to amuse me with their lyre and lays. The instrument was a rude -two-stringed _sitar_, to which they sung the national airs in Toorkee. -They first gave me an “Attack of the Tuka Toorkmuns on the Persians;” -and the following literal translation will give some notion of a -Toorkmun war song:-- - - -~Toorkmun national songs.~ - -THE TUKA TOORKMUNS TO THE KOORDS. - - Lootf Ali Khan! Your greatness is gone, it is time to lead you - away captive, Begler![11] It is time to marshal our forces - at night, and prepare for a “chupao”[12] in the morning. - The dust of your fields shall blow away under the hoofs of the - Toorkmuns. - The Tukas will bear off your daughters arrayed in velvet. - Thanks be to God, my name shall abound unto the skies. - If you know the year of the goat[13], know that I shall then - plunder Meshid. - All your hopes in Khorasan shall be broken. You will now be obliged - to flee to Tehran, Begler! - I have an hundred noble youths who watch you. - Nor do they lack attention; they will drag you to my presence, Begler! - Oh, Begler! I’ll bear off your guns to Khiva: your power is gone. - I’ll assemble my warriors on the plain. - If you have sense, remember my advice. - Send me a youth and a beautiful girl as a tribute. - Oh, Bhaee Mahomed![14] this is the time of my happiness. - -The Koords, though a Persian tribe, are as much addicted to plunder as -the Toorkmuns; and there is, perhaps, greater spirit in the following -song in reply to the Tuka Toorkmuns:-- - - -THE KOORDS TO THE TUKA TOORKMUNS. - - Begler! Give my respects to the Tukas. There is a place called - Urkuj.[15] - You have long enough enjoyed it. - You have sat in Urkuj for many a year. It is now time, Begler! that - you should decamp. - We shall now pitch our tents on the meadows of Nisaœ.[15] - We shall sound the trumpet of retreat as you flee. - Our horsemen will capture those who attempt to escape. - We shall trample under foot those who lag behind. - We shall gaze on your lovely daughters. - Our brave warriors, clad in their armour, shall gallop over your - plains. - Our soldiers will charge beyond your fort, Begler! - The walls of Akkul[15] will tremble at the report of our artillery. - I shall bring a powerful army along with me. - I shall pass beyond the plains of Kipchak.[16] - My advanced guard will dismount in the field of Maimuna. - Your people will be annihilated in the sands of the desert. - When you are driven among the sand hills, - Your feet will blister, and your mouths will be parched. - Wherever you may be, my guides will ferret you out. - When they have marked you down, we shall seize you and your - families. - Oh, Dooshkoon![17] I speak thus from myself: - That plain, now so beautiful, will shortly appear to you a bed of - thorns. - -~Quit the country of the Toorkmuns.~ - -With these national lays closed my acquaintance with the Toorkmuns. I -passed down upon Astrabad by the plain; avoiding, as much as possible, -all intercourse with the Yamoods, who were not described as so pacific -as the Goklans. I met several parties of them, and they offered me -no incivility, though I had now left the suite of the Khan, and was -travelling alone. A journey of eighty miles brought us to the town -of Astrabad, from which the view is very imposing. At the base of -mountains, one of which is the craggy fortress of Humawuran, the scene -of Persian romance, lay the vast plain of the Toorkmuns. The Caspian -could be but faintly distinguished, for it is upwards of twenty miles -distant. On our route from the country of the Goklans, we passed a -lofty cupola, the Goombuz Kaoos, supposed to stand on the ruins of -the ancient Goorgan. It is said to have been once connected with the -Caspian by a boundary line of forts styled the “Lanut Nooma,” or the -“curse shower;” since every person was accursed who presumed to cross -into the country of the Toorkmuns. The natives spoke of the wars and -battles of by-gone years, when the rivers Goorgan and Atruk were dyed -with blood; but I hope, as I believe, only in the metaphors of the poet. - -~Arrival at Astrabad.~ - -~Plague.~ - -In Astrabad we alighted at a caravansary; and passed two gloomy days -in this “City of the Plague.” That scourge had last year devastated -this town; and I sauntered without pleasure through its deserted -streets. Half the shops and houses were shut, literally from want -of masters; and the whole population did not exceed 4000 souls. The -disease raged here with fearful violence; and from some families of -ten or twelve, two or three only remained. In every instance that the -tumours of the patient burst, life was spared; but not till it had -left the most horrid scars as marks of its virulence: they looked like -gunshot wounds. One would have almost imagined that these people had -become familiarised to death, though the disease had now disappeared. -The bier used for interment lay by the road-side; and I saw them -washing a dead body by one of the wells in the public street, near some -fruit-shops. I moved quickly away from the spectacle; and the sound of -my horses’ hoofs echoed as I trod these lonely streets. - -~Astrabad.~ - -Astrabad is a place of no great note. A dry ditch, and a decayed mud -wall about two miles in circumference, surround it; yet there are parts -in the interior, which bear no resemblance to a city, and remind one of -the country. It is the birthplace of the Kujurs, the reigning family of -Persia. Hanway tells us, that in the beginning of last century, it was -a considerable mart for trade; but its prosperity has declined, since -it has now only four caravansaries, and there are but twelve shops -for the sale of cloth. Its position is favourable, being but twenty -miles from the Caspian. The magnificent causeway of Shah Abbas, which -still exists, also keeps open its communication with the provinces -south of that sea. Its trade with Orgunje, or Khiva, is comparatively -trifling; there being but one or two annual caravans of eighty or a -hundred camels. The intervening country is very disturbed; goods may -be conveyed there with greater safety, by passing them up the eastern -bank of the Caspian, and landing in the latitude of Khiva. There is -hardly any trade between Astrabad and Russia. The climate of Astrabad -is humid and disagreeable. It rains so much that it is difficult to -keep a mud wall standing, and a very ingenious plan has been devised -to effect it. A mat of reeds is placed on the top of the wall, covered -with earth, and planted with lilies, or fleur-de-lis, which grow up -luxuriantly, and thus protect it from the rain. Though Astrabad be -in the same parallel as Koochan, the thermometer, which there fell -below the freezing point at sunrise, now stood at 60° in October. The -difference of elevation solves the problem. Astrabad produces oranges, -figs, lemons, and the fruits of hot countries. - -~Arrival on the Caspian.~ - -From Astrabad I proceeded to the banks of the Caspian at Nokunda, a -straggling village about thirty miles distant. We might have come on -it sooner, but I had an introduction to the Khan of that place, and -preferred seeing the Causeway of the great Shah Abbas. It is yet in -tolerable repair, and appears to have been about twelve feet broad, -and formed of round stones. It runs through a thick forest, where -figs, vines, and pomegranates grow spontaneously. This road will, -in all probability, remain, like that of the Cæsars, as the most -lasting memorial of the munificent Abbas. Without it, the province -of Mazenderan would be quite impervious for many months. The Khan of -Nokunda received me very kindly, and was a communicative man. He was a -relation of the Khan with whom I had travelled among the Toorkmuns. He -gave me a Persian dinner, and many Persian compliments; and I assured -him, in return, that the guest of a night was the friend of a hundred -years. - -~Adventures on the Caspian.~ - -The forests of Mazenderan had yet hid the Caspian; nor did I see it -till the following morning, and within half a mile of its beach. What a -noble sight it at length presented, after we had been so long looking -for it, and travelled from Delhi to its shores. It now rolled before -us like the ocean. Near us lay five or six small vessels, here called -“_gummee_;” and the Khan and myself embarked in one of them, and sailed -merrily out to sea, from which we viewed this beautiful coast. We -boarded a small Russian vessel, and the whole voyage was repaid by the -reception of the captain, who, on hearing I was a European, pulled off -his fur cap, and had a bit of sturgeon broiled for my refreshment. I -cannot say I relished it; but then, I had not had such a bow, and such -society, for many a day. These vessels are all of Russian build; they -carry two masts, and hoist square sails; their tackle is superior: -but there were no vessels of any great tonnage then in the harbour. -There is a prevalent belief, that the waters on the southern side of -the Caspian have been receding; and during these twelve years they -have retired about three hundred yards, of which I had ocular proof. -Over the reef which forms the Bay of Astrabad, the natives informed -me that the water of the Caspian is fresh, while in other places it -is brackish; but as this is the embouchure of the rivers Atruk and -Goorgan, it may be readily accounted for. I did not leave the Caspian -without endeavouring to verify the opinions regarding its level, which -is clearly below that of the ocean. A thermometer, which boils at the -sea at 212-1/3°, here boiled at 213-2/3°, which, according to Humboldt, -would give a depression of 800 feet, which is much too great. I did -not, however, use proper water for the experiment, and we shall rest -satisfied simply with its being a corroboration of received opinions of -the depression of this inland sea. - -~Gardens of Ushruff.~ - -I took leave of the Khan of Nokundu, and proceeded to Ushruff, which is -in Mazenderan, and one of the favoured seats of Shah Abbas and Nadir, -and which Jonas Hanway has so graphically described some ninety years -ago. All the fine buildings which he mentions have been destroyed, -though their architecture is such that they might have stood for -centuries. There is yet enough to leave a very favourable impression of -the taste of the Persian monarch; since it is evident that they have -been light and chaste, and in that keeping which ought to characterise -garden-houses. A superb basin, and all the aqueducts, are yet perfect, -and the cypress trees have attained a great height in their advanced -age. The situation of these gardens is beautiful; they command a noble -view of the Caspian. - -~Fortunate escape.~ - -At Ushruf we met a party of pilgrims from Bokhara and Khiva, who joined -us at the caravansary. We learned from them, that the Russian caravan, -which had proceeded to Mangusluk, had been plundered by the Kirgizzes, -about ten days after leaving Khiva. But for the advice of the Vizier in -Bokhara, we should have accompanied that caravan; and had we succeeded -in passing through the town of Khiva, we should have met with the -catastrophe to which I have alluded, between it and the Caspian. The -pilgrims recounted the great hardships of their journey from Khiva to -Astrabad, where they had experienced much oppression from the Toorkmun -tribes. I had now to congratulate myself on having attended to the -advice that had been given. - -~The plague.~ - -~Quit the Caspian.~ - -After we had proceeded a mile beyond Ushruf, we found the great -causeway barricaded, and a villager seated with a stick, to prevent a -trespass. This was the _board of health_ at Ushruf; for we now heard, -for the first time, that the plague was raging at Saree, the capital of -Mazenderan, and the town at which I had that day intended to halt. We -prosecuted our journey; but rested at a village two miles from Saree, -where our information of the existence of the disease was confirmed. I -was now on my road to Balfurosh, and its port on the Caspian,--a place -of some note, where I hoped to see more Russian vessels, and enlarge my -acquaintance with this sea and that people; but I made an immediate -alteration in my plans, and prepared for a precipitate retreat from -the shores of the Caspian and Mazenderan. Next morning I took the high -road to Tehran, and met with rather a staggering incident as we passed -outside the walls of Saree. Our road brought us into a burying-ground, -where two boys were digging a grave, as we passed, for two bodies that -lay near them. Such a scene filled me with horror; for the people had -died of the plague: but what was our astonishment to be addressed by -the grave-diggers, and beseeched, as good Mahommedans, to assist in the -usual ablutions of a corpse! “You shall have five ‘sahib kurans’ (about -three rupees) for your trouble,” exclaimed they. There was a silence -among us; no one gave an answer; and we soon found ourselves beyond -Saree, having quickened the pace of our horses. This town suffered so -severely from the plague in the preceding year, that there were not now -more than three hundred people in it, and most of them were persons who -had recovered from the disease; since the Persians bear an impression -that the plague cannot be taken more than once. There were now too few -people to admit of the disease spreading; but it no doubt lurked in -Saree. They informed me that it had been introduced by Balfurosh from -Astracan in the preceding year, and all my curiosity to see that place -vanished with the information. - -~Notice of the plague.~ - -In our march we were joined by a native of Astrabad, who was proceeding -to Tehran; and he gave me some account of the plague, which had raged -last year. He had lost a son, and both he and his wife had caught the -disease. She was nursing a child at the time; and though she continued -to suckle it, the infant escaped. The disease did not reach its height -till the tenth day, and was invariably attended with delirium. This -person assured me, that he had the horror to see his own child dragged -to the door by eight or ten cats, whom he with difficulty scared away; -and affirmed it as his belief, that more people were killed by dogs -and cats, or died from hunger, under the disease itself. None would -approach an infected house, and no patient would even assist another. -The plague and human nature are the same in all countries, and the -affections and passions are never brought sooner to the test than in -that devastating disorder. - -~Mazenderan.~ - -Our stay in Mazenderan was now soon to close. It is a disagreeable -country; and has so moist a climate, that the inhabitants are subject -to fevers, agues, dropsies, palsies, and many other diseases. The -people are sallow, and the children weak and rickety. It is a land of -snakes and frogs; but the snakes are not venomous, being of the water -species. They are to be seen twisting and turning every where, and -about the thickness of a good-sized whip. Almost at every pace your -horse disturbs some frogs, who scramble in vain for concealment even in -a country of bushes and shrubs. So great is the moisture, that the rice -crops are not cut, as in other countries. They mow the grain down near -the ear, and place it to dry on the stubble; for it would otherwise -rot. Mazenderan is a rich province. The sugar cane thrives in it; but -they do not appear to prepare it beyond the first stage, and sell it -as molasses. Cotton also grows luxuriantly, and silkworms are educated -every where. The fruit is good, and much of it grows wild. There are -whole woods of pomegranate trees; and the people collect the fruit, -and, after drying the seeds in the sun, export them as a rarity to -other countries. - -~Peasantry.~ - -The peasantry, with a sickly, have yet a comfortable appearance. They -tie folds of cloth round their legs and fix them with a low shoe, and -lacing cords. They wade through their muddy roads with these, and tell -you they are superior to boots, since they may be dried in the evening! -The men wear dark clothes, and the women dress generally in red,--the -two colours which I suppose are easiest made. Many of the people wear -caps of felt, instead of lambskin. The houses of the country are buried -in vegetation; creepers, melons, and pumpkins are every where to be -seen resting on the roofs. Every house has a garden, and is surrounded -by a hedge of mulberries; most of them are elevated by wooden poles to -a considerable height from the ground, to prevent the bad effects of -moisture. The inhabitants pass the summer and autumnal months in the -hills, where they cultivate rice. They live in huts, and call such a -residence “yailak,” in distinction from “kishlak,” which they apply to -their permanent habitations. - - - - -CHAP. XVI. - -JOURNEY THROUGH PERSIA.--CONCLUSION OF THE NARRATIVE. - - -~Quit Mazenderan.~ - -At the village of Aliabad, which is twelve miles from Balfurosh, -we quitted the Causeway of Shah Abbas, and proceeded south to the -mountains, and entered the beautiful glen which is watered by the Tilar -river. We had a sight of the lofty snow-clad mountain of Dumavend -before leaving the low country. This valley extends for about sixty -miles, and is the greatest of the passes into Mazenderan. Shah Abbas -cut a road in the rock for about ten miles, which is yet passable, -though it has not suited the policy of his successors to repair it. -The horses frequently sunk girth deep into the mud; and if his present -Majesty knew but half the curses and maledictions heaped upon his head -and beard by the mule drivers, he would assuredly repair it for the -peace of his own soul. The scenery of this valley is most romantic; -the hills are covered with forest trees; and the rumbling noise of -the water, which was many hundred feet below the road, had an effect -that was most pleasing. About half way up the valley, we crossed the -rivulet by a bridge, called the “pool i sufued”, and left the rich -foliage of Mazenderan. - -~Pass of Gudook.~ - -We finally cleared the valley by the pass of Gudook, which leads up to -the table land of Persia. The word “Gudook,” in Toorkee, means a pass. -Our ascent from the dell was continued and gradual; and at Feerozkoh -we were again six thousand feet above the sea. On either side, as we -approached the pass, the precipices rose in grand abruptness, and the -narrowness of the road had led to its being fortified in former years. -This is a scene of romance, and the strains of Furdoosee, the Persian -Homer. The cave of the “Dev i sufued,” or white demon, was pointed out -to us, as well as the spot where he was slain by the valiant Roostum. -Some fellow travellers, whom we had picked up by the way, spouted -verses from the Shahnamu, and I was more than once amused with their -ruminations. They did not dream of the lively imagination of a national -poet, but were regretting the degeneracy of the present age, which had -no giants and Roostums, as in times that had gone. The top of the pass -was very cold; and in winter this is said to prove sometimes fatal to -the traveller. Shah Abbas has here erected a bath and a caravansary, -but they are both in ruins. - -~Gudook the “Pylæ Caspiæ.”~ - -It appears to me that the pass of Gudook may be identified with the -“Pylæ Caspiæ,” or the Caspian gates, through which Alexander the Great -pursued Darius. Their distance from Rhages or Rei, which lies near -the modern city of Tehran, is said to have been a two days’ march, -and the journey is ninety miles. I have before observed that this is -the greatest of the passes into Mazenderan; and we have seen that it -is hallowed by Persia’s greatest muse. By this road Alexander reached -Hecatompylos, from which he advanced into Parthia. On the way he -attacked the _Taburi_; and it is a very extraordinary fact, that, in -the modern coinage of Mazenderan, that province is yet denominated -_Taburistan_. - -~Feerozkoh.~ - -From the pass of Gudook we journeyed in a cheerless valley pent in by -bare hills; at the end of which stood the village of Feerozkoh, under a -naked rock and fort about 300 feet high. This place put me in mind of -Bameean, since many of the houses were excavated in the hills, where -the inhabitants keep their flocks in winter. The climate is severe, and -the snow lies for five months in the year. I observed a great change in -the appearance of the inhabitants, who had now red and rosy cheeks. I -know not whether our elevation from the lowlands of Mazenderan, might -have an effect in the boiling of meat; but it took twice the usual -time to cook my pilao at Feerozkoh; nay, the water was boiled up before -the meat was ready. The flesh might have been tough, and an old sheep -of the flock had, perhaps, fallen under the knife of the butcher. - -~Cure for the taste of quinine.~ - -It is said that the natives of Mazenderan are the most simple of all -the Persians, and we had some amusement at the expense of one of our -fellow-travellers, who applied for medicine to arrest an intermittent -fever. I gave him quinine, and afterwards took occasion to ask him how -he liked its bitter taste. “It has no taste,” replied he; for he had -swallowed it along with the paper in which it was packed up. - -~A Koord.~ - -We made three marches to Tehran, a distance of ninety miles, halting -by the way at the hovels of caravansarais, which the traveller finds -in this part of Persia, where he alights in the same room with his -horse. The country was arid, bleak, and miserable, and the number of -villages most limited. We had no signs of approaching the metropolis -of a country. An incident occurred near Baumein, the last stage, which -should not be omitted: one of my “yaboos,” or ponies, had sunk under -his load, and I went into a village to hire another; I succeeded in my -suit, and paid the price of the animal to a Koord with whom I made the -bargain, and was about to resume my journey:--“Will you not purchase -my mule,” said he, “in exchange for your worn-out ‘yaboo,’ and give -me the difference?” I entered into conversation, and found that the -Koord took me for a native of Khorasan, and it was therefore useless -to tell him I was an European. I certainly wished for his mule, and as -I looked at it he said, with considerable solemnity,--“Now, as we are -both _good_ Mahommedans, let us conclude a bargain and not cheat each -other.” I added, “Be it so,” and after a little conversation we settled -all matters. His mule had, as I afterwards found, a broken back, and -my yaboo had an incurable disease; but then it was as apparent to the -Koord as it was to myself. Such was the settlement of a bargain between -two _good_ Mahommedans, who resolved to act fairly by each other; nor -is Persia the only country where such arts are practised. - -~Vexations of a traveller.~ - -~Arrival at Tehran.~ - -On the 21st of October I was astir a little after midnight, to proceed -with as little delay as possible to the capital of the King of kings, -but what did my speed avail me? We had not got many yards from the -caravansary before one of the loads tumbled from the mule, and while -putting it right another was kicked off by a horse. We had repaired -these disasters in a night as dark as Tartarus, and were about to -advance, when it was discovered that one of the other ponies had -strayed, and, what was more alarming, the very one, on which all my -notes, maps, and papers had been packed. My tongue clove to the roof -of my mouth, at the announcement of such a piece of information, -among thieving Koords, after all the difficulties of the journey had -apparently terminated. A search of half an hour recovered the strayed -animal, and I trotted on with all speed to the gate of Tehran, which I -reached at noon. I proceeded to the mansion of the British mission and -presented myself at the outer door, as a “Firingee.” I was soon met by -Sir John Campbell, the envoy at this court, and spent with him and his -agreeable family a few happy and pleasant days, marked by the utmost -hospitality and kindness. - -~Presentation to the Shah.~ - -After being introduced by the Envoy to the “pillars of the state” the -cabinet ministers of Persia, I had the honour of being presented to his -Majesty, on the 26th of October. Having seen the Great Mogul himself, -and the monarchs of Cabool and Bokhara, with many other exalted -personages, I was gratified to find myself in the court of Persia. The -“kibleh alum,” or attraction of the world, (so the king is styled,) sat -in a hall of mirrors, and when yet beyond the light of his countenance, -we drew up and saluted. We then advanced, and again saluted; and -his Majesty returned it by calling aloud, “Khoosh amudeed,” you are -welcome. We now ascended a few steps, and found ourselves in the -presence of royalty. “_Dumagh i shooma chak ust_, are your brains -clear?” exclaimed his Majesty with a sonorous voice; on this we drew up -in a corner opposite to where the Shah sat, and returned the compliment -by a salute. Sir John Campbell, Captain MʻDonald and myself composed -the party, and the ministers stood on each side of us. The Shah sat -at a distance of about forty feet, and a display of crystal, arranged -with as little taste as in a shop, separated us from the King of kings. -The chandeliers hung so thickly from the roof, that they completed the -resemblance, and before any conversation had passed we were instructed -to hold our swords, lest they might fracture the mirrors let into -the wall behind us. “Does he understand Persian?” said his Majesty, -to one of his ministers. “_Bele, bele_, yes, yes,” was the reply “he -speaks Toorkee, Afghanee, Hindee, Persian, &c. &c.;” though I should -have been soon at fault, had the Shah selected his dialect. “You have -made a long and difficult journey,” commenced his Majesty; and such -was the affability and engaging manner of this illustrious personage, -that I felt myself at once free from embarrassment, and in the closest -conversation with the “Asylum of the World.” He desired me to enumerate -the cities which I had visited, and I ended the long list by saying, -that the favour of God had at last brought me to his august capital. -He exclaimed in a tone of surprise, “Why, a _Persian_ could not have -done so much. But what led you to undergo the dangers and fatigues -of such a journey?” I replied, that it had been curiosity. “Did you -travel as an European?” I told him I did so. “It must have cost you -much money;” but his Majesty had a hearty laugh when I told him that we -owed our release among the Toorkmuns to two gold ducats and a little -tea. “Have you taken notes of your journey?” said the Shah. “Yes,” -replied I, “I have measured the mountains, examined the roads, and -sounded the rivers.” “These people are lions,” exclaimed the astonished -monarch. “_Bele, bele_,” echoed his ministers, “they are tigers, they -are Roostums.” “Give me a sketch of the affairs of Cabool,” continued -the King, “tell me the power of the chief and his brothers;”--with all -of which I complied, adding, as a courtier, that the ruler owed his -power to the Persians he retained in his interests. He made enquiries -as to their tribe and number, on which points I satisfied his Majesty. -The Shah then put like questions on the power of all the chiefs -between India and Persia, questioned me about the road over the Hindoo -Koosh, and particularly on the capability of the Oxus, which he called -the Jihoon, and seemed to consider the greatest river in the world: -he mentioned the deserts which it passed, asking if they could be -traversed by an army. His Majesty next spoke of the people of Bokhara, -and asked if they were alarmed at the approach of Abbas Meerza to their -frontiers. Need I give the answer: I told the King that they trembled. -He smiled at my account of the Priests or Moollahs, and gave a look of -contempt, as I mouthed the name of the King, the “Ameer ool Momineen,” -the Commander of the faithful. “Did you try horse-flesh while among -the Uzbeks?” was the next question. I replied that I did so, and it -was not unpalatable. “But how got you from among the Toorkmuns?” said -his Majesty once more. “I threw the dog a bit of meat, and escaped his -jaws.” - -After a little break in the conversation, the Shah, with some interest -in what he said, enquired for the greatest wonder which I had seen in -my travels. The opportunity was too favourable in so vain a court, -and I replied in a loud voice, “Centre of the universe, what sight -has equalled that which I now behold, the light of your Majesty’s -countenance, O attraction of the world!” The Shah gave a nod of -applause, which was taken up in a buzz of approbation by the pillars -of the state, and evinced the royal and ministerial gratification. -“But,” continued the King, “what city did you most admire?” I required -a precise answer after such adulation. I told him that Cabool was the -paradise of our travels. He asked particularly for Balkh, and the -modern condition of that “Am ool bulad,” or mother of cities. - -“You were presented to the Prince-royal,” said the King; “And I -received much condescension at his Royal Highness’s hands,” replied I; -“he sent me with a Khan through the country of the Toorkmuns.” “Tell me -what you say of Koochan;”--which gave me an opportunity of delighting -the old monarch with the detail of his son’s success, heightened by the -formidable account which I gave of the strength of the fallen fortress. -“Will the ‘Naib Sultanut,’” so he called Abbas Meerza, “be able to take -Shurukhs, and reduce the Toorkmuns in that neighbourhood?” “Certainly,” -replied I, “they will fall at his feet.” “Will the place support his -army?” I then enumerated its resources. One of the ministers, by -way of adding to the information desiderated by his Majesty, stated -that Shurukhs was the garden of Adam, who used to come from Ceylon -(Serendib) and till it daily! I had heard the tradition, but it had -not entered into my statistical details for his Majesty’s information. -“What is your opinion of my son’s army,--is it efficient?” I assured -his Majesty that it was so. “But tell me your most candid opinion of -its merits.” I added, that the clothes and accoutrements of the troops -were worn out, but that no Asiatic power could in these days resist -such an armament, and that they were now flushed with success. His -Majesty again returned to my own affairs, and asked whither I was now -proceeding. I told him, to India. He made no further enquiries into my -objects for travelling. “How did you travel in Toorkistan?” asked the -Shah. I told him that my conveyance was a camel, at which he smiled. -After some desultory conversation and complimentary speeches between -the Shah and the Envoy, we left the presence of the King of kings with -the same bows and ceremonies that we had approached it. - -Futtih Ali Shah has by no means the appearance of an old man, though -his age must be upwards of seventy. His voice is full and sonorous, -and he sits erect, with much dignity. His dress was remarkably plain, -and of black cloth, which was not becoming, nor did it show off to -advantage his beard, that wonder of the East. I should not be surprized -that this monarch outlived his son Abbas.[18] It is said, that he has -recourse to _the essence of pearls_ and precious stones, which he uses -as tonics, to support his declining strength, and in which the Oriental -faculty have great faith. The moderns apply these gems to other -purposes; and the Shah of Persia deserves some credit as being one of -the only persons I have heard of who turns them to a useful purpose. - -~Return to India.~ - -I now found myself poised between Europe and Asia; and though I -had informed his Majesty that I purposed returning to India, I had -every inclination to prosecute my way to Constantinople, now distant -but twenty days’ journey. Would that I had followed the bent of my -inclinations; since I afterwards found that I had been summoned to -Europe from that city. I felt, however, that the objects of the journey -had been accomplished, and it only remained for me to return to India, -and arrange the materials which I had gathered. I therefore quitted -Tehran on the 1st of November, and freely admit that I did so with -regret, after a ten days’ enjoyment of the friendly society which I had -met. - -~Route to the coast.~ - -On my way to the coast, I took the route of Isfahan and Shiraz -to Bushire, and viewed by the way the tomb of Cyrus, and those -imperishable remnants of antiquity, the ruins of Persepolis. This -route and country have been too often described to require even a -passing remark; nor do I offer to present my views and picture of the -inhabitants, after the inimitable sketches that have appeared in Hajee -Baba, which, with a due deduction for the thread of the tale, appeared -to me both just and correct. I have since perused Mr. Fraser’s Travels -in this country, and venture to record, as far as I am able to judge, -that they contain the most faithful account of Persia which has been -published in modern times. Were the facts and opinions which have -been recorded by that able and intelligent traveller more generally -received, we should have ere this come to more correct notions of -the weak state and tottering condition of this empire, and a juster -appreciation of its weight and influence in the scale of nations. - -~Quit Persia.~ - -At Bushire, I found that Mr. Blane, the resident in the Gulf of Persia, -had kindly delayed the departure of the Honourable Company’s ship of -war the Clive, till I arrived. I lost no time in embarkation, and -finally quitted Persia on the 10th of December. Our voyage to India -was pleasant, and Capt. Macdonald, the commander of the Clive, took -every opportunity of making it varied and agreeable. If we found that -“Oman’s dark blue sea,” and its barren shores, have been the theme -of exaggerated praise in the imagination of the poet, we had yet -gratification in a glimpse at the far-famed emporium of Ormuz, and the -rugged rocky coast of Arabia, with the romantic cove of Muscat and the -dreary shores of Mekran. We anchored in the harbour of Bombay on the -18th of January, and passed the rest of that month in quarantine; after -which I proceeded without delay to Calcutta, to lay the result of my -travels before the Governor General, Lord William Bentinck. - -~Conclusion.~ - -I shall not pause to reflect on the feelings with which I again set -foot in India after so long and weary a journey. In the outset, I -saw every thing, both ancient and modern, to excite the interest and -inflame the imagination,--Bactria, Transoxiana, Scythia, and Parthia, -Kharasm, Khorasan, and Iran. We had now visited all these countries; we -had retraced the greater part of the route of the Macedonians; trodden -the kingdoms of Porus and Taxiles; sailed on the Hydaspes; crossed the -Indian Caucasus, and resided in the celebrated city of Balkh, from -which Greek monarchs, far removed from the academics of Corinth and -Athens, had once disseminated among mankind a knowledge of the arts -and sciences, of their own history, and the world. We had beheld the -scenes, of Alexander’s wars, of the rude and savage inroads of Jengis -and Timour, as well as of the campaigns and revelries of Baber, as -given in the delightful and glowing language of his commentaries. In -the journey to the coast, we had marched on the very line of route by -which Alexander had pursued Darius; while the voyage to India took us -on the coast of Mekran and the track of his admiral Nearchus. - - - - - A - - GENERAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL - - MEMOIR - - ON PART OF - - CENTRAL ASIA. - - -The Personal Narrative of the journey has closed, and I now proceed to -describe the objects, both general and geographical, that appear to -deserve notice. It will be seen that the line of route has traversed -a portion of India, Cabool, Tartary (Toorkistan), and Persia; and I -might appropriately follow the same arrangement in my descriptions. It -is not, however, my intention to recapitulate the labours of others, -not to dwell upon what is already before the world; I have therefore -confined myself to that which is new and inviting. My maps will -rectify many positions in these countries, and even remove various -and vast ranges of hills; but the general account of each province in -the kingdom of Cabool has been graphically given in Mr. Elphinstone’s -valuable work on that country. My field lies in the untrodden paths -beyond Hindoo Koosh, among roaming Tartars and deserts, cheered, as -they certainly are, by many smiling and fertile oäses. If my reader -will place the maps of the journey before him, he will perceive that -I only treat of countries which I have visited: there is an exception -in the fifth and sixth chapters of the first Book, regarding the -sources of the Indus and the foreign communications of China, which -the interest of the subject will, I believe, justify. In the last two -Books, I present the report, nearly in the same state that I submitted -it to the Supreme Government of India. The form may not be best -adapted to convey information to the public; but in such a shape the -authenticity will, perhaps, entitle it to greater notice. For reasons, -which it is not necessary to explain, I have had to abridge this and -other portions of my work. - - - - -NOTICE - -REGARDING - -THE MAP OF CENTRAL ASIA. - - -The results of my survey of the countries between India and the Caspian -Sea are exhibited on the face of the map: the data on which these -results rest require to be stated, that others may be enabled to judge -of the authenticity of the document. - -The instruments used were, a sextant, of nine inches radius, by -Gilbert, and the patent surveying compass of Schmalcalder, divided -into 360 degrees. With the sextant the parallels of latitude were -determined, when practicable, either by a meridian altitude of the sun, -or the elevation of the pole star; with the compass the bearings or -angles of the country were observed. The time of travelling was noted -on the spot, from a valuable chronometer watch by Arnold. - -The rate of marching, after various trials by astronomical observation, -was found to be as follows:-- - -1st. On horseback, over a level country, such as the Punjab, or regions -eastward of the Caspian, _without a caravan_, 30 furlongs, or 3-3/4 -miles per hour. - -2d. On horseback, over a broken or mountainous country, such as lies -between the Indus and Cabool, and accompanied by mules lightly laden, 3 -miles per hour. - -3d. On camels, over a flat country, such as Toorkistan, about 3800 -yards, or 2 miles 300 yards per hour; protracting in every instance the -great inflexions of the road, and correcting them by peaks or notable -land-marks in front or rear. - -The rate of a camel’s march requires some further notice, since I took -much pains to ascertain it, and am not without a hope that it may prove -useful to others. Twenty-two camels in “kittar,” or string, that is, -following and tied to each other, cover a space of 115 paces of 2-1/2 -feet, or 94 yards. They march over this space in 90 seconds of time; -that is to say, they travel at the rate of 76-2/3 paces per minute, or -3833 yards per hour, thus:-- - - 76-2/3 paces a minute. - 60 minutes. - ---- - 4560 - 40 - ---- - 4600 paces. - 2-1/2 feet. - ------ - 3)11,500 feet. - ------ - 3833 yards. - ------ - -Camels move quickest at night, or in the cool of the morning, and flag -after a march of twenty-five miles. I have, therefore, taken the even -number of 3800 yards as my standard of protraction. I cannot agree with -Mr. Macartney, that camels move at the rate of 2-1/2 or 2-3/4 miles an -hour. Volney informs us that the Syrian camel travels at the rate of -only 3600 yards, or even lower than the standard which I have assigned; -and that great traveller cannot be far from the truth. In a _sandy -country_ I used the following expedient to ascertain the rate of the -camel, and the result presents a satisfactory approximation. - - A string of 7 camels moves over its own } 26 seconds. - ground in } - 10 42 - 7 28 - 8 35 - 8 37 - 12 50 - -- --- - 52 218 - -- --- - -Each camel in string occupies about 13 feet; so that 52 camels cover -676 feet, which gives a rate of about 3700 yards an hour _in soft -ground_; thus:-- - - sec. feet. sec. - If 218 : 676 : 3600. Ans. 3700. - -That the rates of marching now recorded approximate closely to the -truth, is undeniably established by my protraction to the city of -Bokhara, which fell within 30 miles west of the meridian of 64° 55′ -east longitude, the position assigned to it by the Russian mission. -In Macartney’s map it stands in 69° 10′, and was altered by Mr. -Elphinstone to 62° 45′; though that gentleman observes he was not -satisfied with its position. The latitude of Bokhara I found to be -39° 43′ 41″ north; but its position, according to others, is somewhat -different. - - By L^t. Macartney 37° 45′ North. - By Mr. Elphinstone 39 27 - By Major Rennell 39 25 - By Anthony Jenkinson 39 10 - -I also found a remarkable coincidence with the correct longitude, -in my protraction through the Toorkmun country, from Meshid to the -Caspian Sea. Setting out also from Lodiana in India, which stands -in 75° 54′ east longitude, and 30° 55′ 30″ north latitude, the -protraction to Peshawar was nearly coincident with the position of -that city as determined by the Cabool mission. They assigned to it -the longitude of 71° 45′: I have placed it 71° 33′: it stands in 34° -9′ 30″ north latitude. The relative position of Cabool from Peshawur -has been altered, as well as the ranges of the mountains; but it is -unnecessary to detail the various changes which an inspection and -comparison of the map will readily point out. With the assistance of -Mr. John Arrowsmith, whose maps have already secured to him a just -approbation[19], the materials of my survey have been incorporated with -the latest geographical information: this will greatly enhance the -value of the maps, which have been drawn by Mr. Arrowsmith himself, and -carefully engraved under his own superintendence for this work; nor -will it in any way conceal the later information, since my own line of -route has been particularly marked and distinguished from that of other -travellers. - -The following original observations of latitude it seems advisable to -record. The asterisk marks those which were observed at night. - - Lodiana, on the Sutledge Lat. 30° 55′ 30″ - Junction of the rivers Sutledge and Beas, - at Huree 31 9 50 - City of Lahore (south gate) 31 34 52 - Ramnugguron, the Chenab 32 19 33 - Pind Dadun Khan, on the Jelum 32 34 53 - Rotas, in the Punjab 32 58 2 - Jane ka Sung, in the Punjab 33 41 8 - Attok, on the Indus 33 54 46 - Peshawur (of Macartney) 34 9 30 - Cabool (south quarter) *34 24 5 - Balkh (obs. 17 miles west) *36 48 0 - Oxus, at Khoju Salu *37 27 45 - Kurshee, in Toorkistan *38 51 50 - Bokhara (centre and mean of 3 obs.) *39 43 41 - Meerabad, near Karakool 39 21 51 - Charjooee (south bank of the Oxus) 39 0 30 - Bulghooee, in the desert *38 39 21 - Khoju Abdoola, on the Moorghab *37 36 15 - Shurukhs (by the sun) 36 31 0 - Shurukhs (by the pole star) *36 32 10 - Meshid (west quarter) 36 15 44 - Camp among Goklan Toorkmuns 37 21 57 - Koord mulla, on the Caspian 36 46 25 - Tehran (capital of Persia) 35 40 0 - - - - -GENERAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL - -MEMOIR. - - - - -BOOK I. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -AN ACCOUNT of THE KINGDOM OF BOKHARA. - - -~Limits and extent of the kingdom.~ - -Samarcand and Bokhara have afforded a theme for glowing description to -the historians, and poets of all ages. The country in which they lie -forms a portion of Toorkistan, or the land of the Toorks, and is so -denominated by the people themselves. Bokhara is an isolated kingdom, -of small extent, surrounded by a desert. It is an open champaign -country, of unequal fertility. In the vicinity of its few rivers the -soil is rich; beyond, barren and unproductive. It owes its importance -to its central position, since it is placed between Europe and the -richest regions of Asia. On the north, it is bounded by the Sea of -Aral, the Sir or Jaxartes of the ancients, and the country of Kokan -or Ferghana. On the east, it extends to the mountains which branch -from the high lands of Pamere. On the south it has the Oxus, which -it however crosses on the south-eastern limit, and holds a supremacy -over Balkh and the cantons of Andkho and Maimuna. On the west it -is separated from Orgunje or Khiva by the desert of Kharasm, which -commences within a march of the city of Bokhara. In this enumeration I -have assigned the widest limits to the kingdom; for there are provinces -within this boundary which owe but a doubtful allegiance. The great -feature of the country is the Oxus, which bisects the desert, and -renders it inhabitable. The river of Samarcand, in its lower course, -flows at right angles to it, but expends its water before paying its -tribute to the greater stream. Another rivulet below that of Samarcand -shares a like fate, after it has watered the province of Kurshee. On -the banks of these different streams lies the whole cultivable soil of -the kingdom. The entire country is comprised between the parallels of -36° and 45° of north latitude, and the meridians of 61° and 67° east -longitude. A very small portion of this extensive tract is peopled. -From Eljeek on the Oxus, and on the western frontier, to Juzzak on the -east, which is the line of cultivation across the country, the distance -is 240 miles. From Balkh to Bokhara it is but 260, almost altogether -waste; and the desert commences about fifteen miles beyond the capital. - -~Natural and political divisions.~ - -The natural and political divisions of the kingdom, according to the -natives, are as follows:--1. Karakool; 2. Bokhara, and seven _tomuns_ -or districts around; 3. Kermina; 4. Meeankal, or Kutta Koorghan; 5. -Samarcand, which has five _tomuns_; 6. Juzzak; 7. Kurshee; 8. Lubiab, -or banks of the Oxus; and, 9. Balkh, and the provinces south of that -river. The first six of these divisions occupy the valley of the -river of Samarcand, known by the name of Kohik and _Zurufshan_, the -gold-shedding river. This is the ancient valley of the Sogd, which -has elicited the praises of all ages, from the time of Alexander. It -was considered a paradise on earth by the Arabian conquerors; but -much of its fame must be attributed to the surrounding desolation, -its beauty captivating the eyes of those who had long travelled in -oceans of sand. It is, however, a beautiful valley. Kurshee, which -lies sixty miles to the south of Samarcand, is an oasis, formed by a -river from the neighbouring province of Shuhr Subz, which exhausts -itself in fertilising the district. The territory on the banks of the -Oxus is also highly favoured by nature; but the strip of cultivation -is narrow, and much of it lies neglected. Balkh, and the countries -south of the Oxus, likewise owe their fertility to the abundant supply -of water, which was once divided among a multiplicity of villages; -but rapine has desolated this fruitful land. These cantons, though -considered tributary to Bokhara, render but nominal allegiance; which -consists in sending a few horses yearly to the king. Their names are -as follows:--Akchu, Shibbergaum, Andkhoee, Maimuna, and Sirepool; all, -except the last, to the north of the mountains. - -~Physical geography.~ - -The geological structure and general conformation of an extended -plain is not less interesting than the features of a lofty range -of mountains; but we have here fewer opportunities to observe and -describe. The great plain of Toorkistan has an elevation of 2000 feet, -and gradually declines westward from Balkh, as the slope and direction -of the rivers testify, till it meets the Sea of Aral and the Caspian. -With the country north of the Oxus, and from the base of the mountains -to Bokhara, I am best acquainted. We have a succession of low rounded -ridges of limestone, oolite, and gravel, thinly overgrown with verdure, -alternating with vast and hardened plains of argillaceous clay, which -offer in this dry climate the finest roads to the heaviest artillery. -On these there occur some fields of sand-hills, of no great extent, -but sufficient to absorb the waters of all the rivulets flowing towards -the Oxus. They seem to extend in a narrow line parallel to that river; -and between it and Karakool have their greatest breadth, which is about -twelve miles. Further to the eastward, they do not exceed half that -width; and there are only a few scattered hillocks between Kurshee -and the Oxus. Westward of Bokhara, the sand-hills increase in volume, -and approach close on either side of the river of Kohik, leaving but -a small space for cultivation; they then run north and west into the -deserts of Kipchak and Kharasm. On their extent and continuance south -of the Oxus I have spoken in my narrative, as well as in a subsequent -chapter on Toorkmania. These sand-hills are based on the firmest land; -and it can at once be discerned that they have been blown by the wind -from some other soil. In the valleys there occasionally occur deposits -of salt and saline rivulets; and nearly all the wells of this tract are -either bitter or brackish. The depth of these never exceeds thirty-six -feet, and many of them have water at half that distance from the -surface. Between Bokhara and the Oxus the water exudes through sand, -and in August had a temperature of 60°, while the air exceeded that of -100°. It was as grateful to the palate as if cooled in ice. In the cold -season, these wells are described as warm; so it is evident that they -retain an equality of temperature during the year. The tract north of -the Oxus is thinly peopled by pastoral tribes, and uncultivated; but -the remains of aqueducts and buildings, in particular between Kurshee -and Bokhara, denote a more prosperous age in these now neglected lands. - -~Climate and phenomena.~ - -The climate of Bokhara is salubrious and pleasant; it is dry, and in -the winter very cold, as is usual in sandy countries. Nothing proves -this so satisfactorily as the freezing of the Oxus. In summer, the -thermometer seldom rises much above 90°, and the nights are always -cool. But this only applies to the city of Bokhara; for, in approaching -it by the desert in June, the heat exceeded 100° of Fahrenheit. The -exuberance of vegetation near the city must lower the temperature; and -will account for the difference between the scorching heat around, -and its milder climate. Bokhara has an elevation of about 1200 feet -above the sea. There is a constant serenity in its atmosphere, and a -clearness in the sky. The heavens are a bright azure blue, generally -without a cloud. At night, the stars have uncommon lustre, and the -milky way shines gloriously in the firmament. Even in moonlight, a -star is visible on the verge of the horizon at an elevation of but -three or four degrees. There is also a never-ceasing display of the -most brilliant meteors, which dart like rockets in the sky: ten or -twelve of these are sometimes seen in an hour, assuming almost every -colour; fiery red, blue, pale and faint. It is a noble country for -astronomical science, and great must have been the advantages enjoyed -by the famed observatory of Samarcand. In the middle of July, after -some days of greater than usual heat, we experienced a violent tornado -of dust, accompanied by a hot wind. It approached from the N.W., and -could be seen advancing. It passed off in a few hours, and left the -air clear and cool; nor did the heat again return. I encountered a -similar phenomenon at Mooltan, on the Indus, about the same time in the -preceding year. These clouds of dust appear only to occur near deserts; -but then every strong breeze should raise a similar cloud, which it -does not. In winter, the snow lies for three months at Bokhara; and the -spring rains are often heavy, but the climate is arid. The evaporation -of water is so rapid, that after rain the roads dry immediately. I -should judge the climate to be congenial to the human frame, from the -great age of many of the inhabitants. I have been now speaking of -Bokhara and the countries north of the Oxus. In Balkh, the heat is -oppressive; and the climate is very unhealthy, which is attributed to -the bad quality of the water. It is of a whitish colour, mixed up with -earth like pipe-clay: nor can it be the abundance of it which causes -marshes, for most of the canals are choked; and the country, when dry, -continues equally unhealthy. In Balkh, the harvest is about fifty days -later than at Peshawur; the wheat is cut in the middle of June, and at -Bokhara it is a fortnight later. - -~Rivers.~ - -In Bokhara, the rivers possess the highest importance, since they -render a portion of these inhospitable lands habitable to man. There -are five of them in Bokhara; the Amoo or Oxus, the Sir or Jaxartes, the -Kohik, and the rivers of Kurshee and Balkh. I have devoted the next -chapter to a description of the Oxus. The river Sir is hardly to be -included in the dominions of Bokhara: it rises in the same mountains -as the Oxus; and passing through the country of Kokan and Khojend, and -traversing a desert, falls into the Aral, about the 46th degree of -north latitude. It is a much smaller river than the Oxus, but is said -to be more rapid. In summer it is fordable; and in winter it is covered -with ice, sometimes two yards thick, over which the caravans pass. -Next in importance to the Sir is the Kohik, or Zurufshan. It rises in -the high lands east of Samarcand, and passing north of that city and -Bokhara, forms a lake in the province of Karakool, instead of falling -in the Oxus, as has been represented in our maps. In the upper parts -of its course it fertilises the rich province of Samarcand; below that -city, in Meeankal, its waters are diverted for the purposes of rice -cultivation; for three or four months in the year, its bed is perfectly -dry at Bokhara; and that city, and the country below it, suffer great -inconvenience, since they depend on the river for a supply of water. -It is a curious propensity in the people to raise in any portion of -so dry a country a grain like rice, which requires such an exuberance -of water. The lake into which the Kohik flows is familiarly known by -the name of “Dengiz,” or sea, and is about twenty-five miles long, and -surrounded on all sides by sand-hills. It is very deep; nor, from the -accounts of the people, does it appear ever to decrease in size at any -season of the year. When the snow melts in summer, the water flows as -steadily into it, as it does in winter. Its water is salt, though its -only feeder be a fresh river; but this is in accordance with the laws -of nature, since it has no outlet of any kind. The next river is that -of Kurshee, which rises in the same high lands as the Kohik, and passes -through Shuhr Subz and Kurshee, below which it is lost in the desert. -The blessings of water are most apparent in the neighbourhood of this -river. The fields of Shuhr Subz yield rich crops of rice; and Kurshee -is a sheet of gardens and orchards. For six miles on one side, and -sixteen on the other, the waters of this rivulet are distributed by -canals: when these cease, we have again a sterile desert to contrast -with its green and beautiful herbage. The river of Kurshee is fed by -the melted snow; and such is the command over its waters, that the -chief of Shuhr Subz can at any time cut off the supply of the lower -districts. In both this river and the Kohik it is usual to let the -water run for a limited time in certain canals, which gives to each -village the benefit of the stream once in ten days; such is the value -of water, and such is the care of the husbandman in this country. The -last river of the country is that of Balkh, which rises south of Hindoo -Koosh, about twenty miles from Bameean, near the “Bund i Burbur,” a -celebrated dam ascribed to a miracle of Ali, and which appears to be -an avalanche of earth that has fallen in upon a ravine. The river then -flows north among the mountains, and enters the plains of Toorkistan, -about six miles south of Balkh. Here it is divided into numerous canals -(which are said to be eighteen in number), and conducted to the city, -as also to Mazar and Akhchu on either side. Akhchu is about fifty -miles from Balkh; but none of the other canals extend so far, though -some of their water trickles half way to the Oxus, and affords that -necessary of life to the roving Toorkmuns. It is impossible to give -any delineation of the canals of Balkh, since they intersect the whole -country, and traces of them meet the eye every where. The gentle slope -of the land towards the Oxus affords great facilities for irrigating -the lands of Balkh; the soil is rich and productive; which will account -for the great population, and vast fertility that was once to be found -in this country. - -~Mountains.~ - -The mountains of Bokhara lie on its frontiers. On the east and south -they form its boundaries; but the interior of the country is free -from them, with the exception of some low-lying ridges near Shuhr -Subz and Samarcand. The northern line of Hindoo Koosh, near Balkh, is -incorrectly laid down; since that city stands on the plain six miles -distant, and clear of the range which stretches to the westward, and -never reaches so high a parallel. In our maps, Balkh stands upon -it[20], and the range is even continued north-eastward to the Oxus. I -have given a separate notice of this great belt of mountains, of which -those near Balkh are but outlyers. Snow is procured from the valleys -about twenty miles from Balkh, in the middle of summer. On approaching -Kurshee we descried a lofty range of snow-clad mountains, running -apparently north and south. The natives called them the mountains of -Baeetoon, from a village of that name; and assured me they were six -days’ journey, or about a distance of 150 miles, from Kurshee. In -June they were entirely enveloped in snow, which would assign to them -an elevation of at least 18,000 feet, judging by Hindoo Koosh. There -were no remarkable peaks in sight, and the mountains ran in connected -chain like a trap formation. There were many lesser and outward ridges -between them and our view; but they towered far above all others, and -gave an impression of great altitude. We saw them again at sunrise, but -lost the splendid prospect as we travelled westward of Kurshee. I am -at a loss for the correct designation of this range: the Emperor Baber -speaks of the Kara Tagh, or Black Mountains, in Karatageen; but that -name is unknown in these days. They appear to terminate the highlands -of Pameer. They run at right angles to Hindoo Koosh, and very nearly -in the same meridian, giving cover to an opinion that they are but a -branch of that range. North of the Oxus, the mountains first rise in -the independent province of Hissar, and these which I have described -appear as a prolongation. In Hissar, however, they have no snow but in -winter; and they have an elevation beyond what was to be looked for -in this part of Asia. The country at their base is inhabited by the -Kongrad Uzbeks. - -~Mineral productions.~ - -When we speak of the mineral productions of Bokhara, our recollection -is carried back to the ill-fated expeditions of Russia into these -countries in quest of gold. The river of Bokhara, I have observed, -has the designation of “Zurufshan,” or the gold-yielding stream. The -result of Prince Bekevitch’s expedition is well known; he and his -three thousand men perished. There are no gold mines in the kingdom -of Bokhara, but that precious metal is found among the sands of the -Oxus in greater abundance, perhaps, than in any of the other rivers -which flow from Hindoo Koosh. From its source to the lake of Aral, the -inhabitants wash the sand after the floods with great profit, and find -grains or particles of gold larger than those in the Indus. A piece -of virgin gold, about the size of a pigeon’s egg, was picked up last -year on the banks of the Oxus, and is now in possession of a merchant -in Khooloom. In the vicinity of Durwaz, the sands are most productive. -The lapis lazuli cliffs, which overhang the river in Budukhshan, are -also said to be interveined with gold; but, from the specimens which I -have seen, it appears to be mica. All the other metals, such as silver, -iron, and copper, are imported from Russia. Sal ammoniac (_nouchadur_) -is found in its native state among the hills near Juzzak. I know of -no other mineral productions in the kingdom but the salt deposits. -In Hissar, salt is found in hills, not unlike the formations in the -salt range of the Punjab. On the plains it is dug out in masses, and, -when washed, is ready for the market. There is a bed of salt, about -five miles in circumference, called Khwaju Hunfee, two miles from the -Oxus, below Charjooee, on the right bank of the river. The salt is -imperfectly crystallised, black, and very inferior; a camel load of -500lbs. sells for a quarter of a tilla in Bokhara.[21] - -~Vegetable kingdom.~ - -The vegetable productions of this country are more abundant. The -different trees will be best known by the names of the fruit after -noticed. The wood used for house-building is the poplar, which grows -every where. The cotton plant is extensively cultivated, and exported -both in a raw and manufactured state. Hemp is reared, but the people -are ignorant of its use in manufactures. They extract oil from the -seeds of the plant, as also the intoxicating drug called “bang,” and -give the stalks to cattle. I have been informed that the tea plant -thrives between Samarcand and Kokan; but I doubt the information, -which was never properly confirmed. There is a small yellow flower, -called “esbaruk,” growing in the low hills near Kurshee and Balkh, -which is used as a dye, and produces a better colour than the rind of -the pomegranate. Madder, called “bayak,” is also produced; its roots -are permitted to remain eighteen months in the ground; but a dye -equally good and serviceable is found in the creeping roots of the -vine, which yield a colour that is dark red. Neither indigo nor sugar -cane grow in Bokhara. They are the great imports from India, and might -be acclimated. There is a curious and common substitute for sugar, -called “turunjubeen.” It is a saccharine gum, which exudes from the -well-known shrub called the camel’s thorn, or the “_khari-shootur_.” -Towards the end of August, when this shrub is in flower, it may be seen -in the morning covered with drops like dew, which are shaken into a -cloth placed beneath the bush, and form what is called “turunjubeen.” -Some hundred maunds are collected annually, and the whole sweetmeats -and confections used in the country are prepared from it; it is also -exported. Though the “_khari-shootur_” be a plant common to most of -the countries in Asia, it does not always, as in Bokhara, produce -“turunjubeen.” The gum is unknown in India and Cabool, and not found -westward of Bokhara, or near that capital; though in great plenty to -the eastward, near Kurshee and Samarcand. It appears to be peculiar -to certain soils; abounding in dry deserts; and is probably the rich -sap of the shrub, which exudes and hardens into small grains. The -inhabitants entertain an absurd opinion, that it is really dew; but -I never heard that it was made by an insect, as has been asserted. -It cannot be doubted that sugar could be manufactured from it,--a -discovery that would be invaluable, since they now use syrup of grapes -and mulberries on account of the expense of that article. Sugar -might also be extracted from juwaree, beet root, and melons. There -is another valuable jungle shrub, called “_usl-soos_,” and “_achick -booee_,” by the Uzbeks, which appears to be a bastard indigo, and -grows most luxuriantly on the banks of the Oxus and the other rivers -of the country. The roots of this plant extend deep into the soil, and -at certain seasons of the year have a small globular worm attached -to them: this creature produces a purple dye, like that of cochineal -(kirmiz), and some of the merchants applied for my advice regarding it: -the insect, when exposed to the sun, comes to life; when destroyed in -an oven, it shrivels up, but still produces a dye, only inferior to -cochineal. I compared it with American cochineal, and they appeared to -me similar, only that the native preparation was softer. Should this -insect yield cochineal, the discovery would be highly important in a -silk country; nor is it to be doubted that its vivifying power might -be destroyed by steam. An ingenious native of Cashmere had tried to -bake it in bread, but without better success than when placed loose in -the oven. The different grains of the country are rice, wheat, barley, -juwaree, here called “jougan,” “sesamum,” “urjun,” Indian corn, gram, -moong, and beans. It is an astonishing fact, that, in the provinces -south of the Oxus, the wheat yields a crop for three successive years. -When the harvest is finished, the cattle are turned in upon the stubble -fields, and in the ensuing year the same stalks grow up and ear. The -second crop is good, the next more scanty; but it is reaped a third -time. In Bokhara Proper, the soil has not such fecundity, for the crops -of Karakool do not yield more than sevenfold. Trefoil is cultivated, -and may be out seven or eight times in the year. Lucerne requires too -much water. The tobacco of Kurshee is superior. The wild rhubarb, or -“rhuwash,” as found in Cabool, likewise grows in the hillocks of this -district. Vegetables abound; there are turnips, carrots, onions, -radishes, brinjals, and a variety of greens, with most extensive fields -of beet-root. The potatoe has not been introduced. Though Bokhara is -so celebrated for its fertility, the necessaries of life bear a high -price, which in the city itself may be attributed to the density of -population. The following table will furnish more correct data on this -subject:-- - - 51 lbs. of wheat sell for one sicca rupee, value about 2_s._ - 75-1/2 lbs. of barley for the same price. - 18-1/2 lbs. of best rice. - 22-1/2 lbs. of coarse rice. - 36-1/2 lbs. of wheat flour. - 64 lbs. of juwaree. - 48 lbs. of moong. - 36-1/2 lbs. of gram. - 43 lbs. of beans. - 16 lbs. of mutton. - 24 lbs. of beef. - 8 lbs. of oil. - 140 lbs. of salt. - 1 lb. of sugar. - 4-2/3 lbs. of ghee. - -~Fruits and wines.~ - -The fruits of Bokhara have attained a great celebrity; but it is more -from quantity than quality. They consist of the peach, plum, apricot, -cherry, sour cherry, apple, pear, quince, walnut, fig, pomegranate, -mulberry, and grape; also the melon, pumpkin, and cucumber. Most of the -stone fruit is inferior to that of Persia, only excepting the apricots -of Balkh, which are highly flavoured, and nearly as large as apples. -They are called “Bakur khanee;” and 2000 of them may be purchased for -a rupee. There are many kinds of grapes; the best are the Sabibee and -Hooseinee: the first is a purple grape, the other yellow, and of a -long shape; and both have a flavour truly luscious. The vines are not -pruned as in Europe. The raisins prepared from the Bokhara grapes stand -unrivalled in size and flavour: the best are dipped in hot water, and -then dried, from which they have the name of “ab-josh,” which means -water boiled: they are soft and beautifully transparent. The wines of -Bokhara are unpalatable to European taste, with little flavour; some -of them might even be mistaken for beer. They cannot be preserved for -more than a year; which evinces some defect in their manufacture. The -mulberries are delicious: they are dried like raisins; and a syrup -called “sheeru” is also extracted from them and grapes. The apples are -indifferent. The plum of Bokhara, which is so well known in India, is -not exported from the country itself, but grows at Ghuzni in Cabool: it -is highly esteemed. The melon is the choicest fruit of Bokhara. The -Emperor Baber tells us that he shed tears over a melon of Toorkistan, -which he cut up in India after his conquest: its flavour brought his -native country and other dear associations to memory. There are two -distinct species of melons, which the people class into hot and cold; -the first ripens in June, and is the common musk or scented melon of -India, and not superior in flavour; the other ripens in July, and is -the true melon of Toorkistan; In appearance it is not unlike a water -melon, and comes to maturity after being seven months in the ground. It -is much larger than the common sort, and generally of an oval shape, -exceeding two and three feet in circumference. Some are much larger; -and those which ripen in the autumn have exceeded four feet. One has a -notion that what is large cannot be delicate or high flavoured; but no -fruit can be more luscious than the melon of Bokhara. I always looked -upon the melon as an inferior fruit till I went to that country: nor do -I believe their flavour will be credited by any one who has not tasted -them. The melons of India, Cabool, and even Persia, bear no comparison -with them: not even the celebrated fruit of Isfahan itself. The pulp is -rather hard, about two inches thick, and is sweet to the very skin; -which, with the inhabitants, is the great proof of superiority. A kind -of molasses is extracted from these melons, which might be easily -converted into sugar. There are various kinds of melons: the best is -named “Kokechu,” and has a green and yellow coloured skin; another is -called “Ak nubat,” which means white sugar candy: it is yellow, and -exceedingly rich. The winter melon is of a dark green colour, called -“Kara koobuk,” and said to surpass all the others. Bokhara appears to -be the native country of the melon, having a dry climate, sandy soil, -and great facilities for irrigation. Melons may be purchased in Bokhara -throughout the year, and are preserved by merely hanging them up apart -from one another; for which those of the winter crop are best suited. -The water melons of Bokhara are good, and attain also an enormous bulk: -twenty people may partake of one; and two of them, it is said, form -sometimes a load for donkey. The cucumbers are likewise superior.[22] - -~Domestic animals.~ - -~Sheep.~ - -~Goats.~ - -~Camels.~ - -In the animal kingdom, the sheep and goats of Bokhara claim the first -notice, since the one yields the celebrated skins, and the other a -description of shawl-wool, only inferior to that used in Cashmere. -These flocks graze on furze and dry grass; and their flesh is sweet -and well-flavoured. All the sheep are of the doombu kind, with large -tails; some of which yield in season so much as fifteen pounds of -tallow. The animal looks deformed from its size; and straddles along -with evident uneasiness. The description of sheep which produces the -jet-black curly fleece, that is made into caps in Persia, and so much -esteemed everywhere, is peculiar to Karakool, a small canton between -Bokhara and the Oxus. The animal will thrive in no other place, and -has been transported to Persia and other countries without success; -when removed, it loses the peculiarity in its fleece, and becomes -like any other sheep. The people attribute this curly fleece to the -nature of the pasture; and assert that the grass called “boyak,” and -by the Persians “ronass,” which is a long kind of bent, changes the -nature of the animal. If a Karakool sheep even strays to the banks -of the Oxus, where that plant grows, it ceases, it is said, to have -the curly wool. The skins of the male lambs are most highly prized: -they are killed five or six days after birth; never later than a -fortnight; but the popular belief of their being cut out of the womb -is erroneous: a very few are procured from premature births in the -ewes; and the skins of such are as fine as velvet, but not curled. -These are called “kirpuk,” and exported to Constantinople, where they -bear a very high price, as the supply is limited. The other kind is -called “danudar,” or curled, and exported to Persia, Turkey, and China. -They are of different fineness, according to the age at which the lambs -are killed: some are exquisitely curled, others more coarse. Those -which have the smallest curls are most prized; and in Persia, ten or -fifteen skins will sometimes be cut up to make a single cap; which -is the cause of their being so expensive. In Bokhara, a single skin -never bears a higher price than three or four sicca rupees. The annual -export of skins amounts to about two hundred thousand; the coarser -ones being sent to Orgunje. They are cured by being rubbed with barley -flour, and salt. The goats of Bokhara, which are to be found among -the wandering Kirgizzes, yield the wool to which I have alluded: but -these people were quite ignorant of its value till a late period; and -yet manufacture it into ropes to bind their horses and cattle. For -some years past it has been exported to Cabool and India. The stuffs -prepared from it are good, but far surpassed by those of Cashmere, -manufactured from the wool of Tibet. This wool is of a grey colour, -and produced next the skin of the animal, from which it is combed -out; if not removed, it makes its appearance in clotted lumps among -the hair. The goat is about the common size, of a dark colour, and -differing from that of Tibet, which is a small and beautiful animal. -I am not aware if the goats of every country yield wool; but, in this -respect, there is a resemblance between those of Toorkistan and Tibet. -I am assured that the dogs of the latter country even yield wool from -which a few shawls are annually manufactured in Cashmere. The curs -of Bokhara yield nothing so valuable. In a country, surrounded by -deserts, the camel is an animal of the first importance: they are very -numerous; and the whole traffic of Bokhara is carried on by means of -them. They bear a high price; a good one cannot be purchased under -sixty or seventy rupees. The condition and appearance of the camel here -differ from what is seen in India and Cabool, where they are often -covered with eruptions, and almost destitute of hair. At Bokhara, on -the other hand, they have a sleek coat, as fine as that of a horse, -and shed their hair in summer; from which a fine water-proof cloth of -close and rather heavy texture is manufactured. It is called “oormuk,” -and retains the natural colour of the camel. I imagine that these -camels owe their superiority to the climate, and the congenial thorny -food, which is so abundant. This animal always thrives best in a dry -country, and is very impatient under heat. They will travel with ease -for fourteen successive hours; but their keepers never march during the -day if it can be avoided. It is erroneous to believe that the camel -can subsist for any great number of days without water. In summer they -suffer much after the second day; and in winter they will only travel -without it for double the time. The food of the camel is most cleanly; -but nothing can be more offensive than the effluvia which proceeds from -its stomach. The journeys performed, even with our caravan, bespeak the -great hardihood of these animals. In one instance we travelled seventy -miles in forty-four consecutive hours, including every halt. Our usual -marches were thirty miles: and the camel scarcely ever travels more -than two miles in the hour. The Bactrian camel, which has two humps, -abounds in Toorkistan: they are bred by the Kuzzaks of the desert -north of Bokhara. They have a fringe of long black hair under their -neck, with a clump of it on both thighs, and are really pretty for a -camel. In stature they are lower than the common camel or dromedary, -yet they bear greater burdens by 140 pounds: the one carrying 640, and -the other but 500 pounds English. I am assured that a most strong and -useful breed of camels is reared by a cross between the two. The issue -of these have but one hump. I reserve my remarks on the horses of the -country for a separate chapter. Among the domestic animals of Bokhara -none are more useful than the ass: the breed is large and sturdy, and -they are much used both for saddle and burden. There is no objection -to riding them, as in India. There are no mules, from a religious -prejudice against them. The horned cattle of Bokhara are well sized, -though far inferior to those of England. There are no buffaloes. - -~Wild animals. Birds. Insects. Fishes.~ - -The wild animals of the country are few. Tigers of a diminutive species -are found in the valley of the Oxus; also wild hogs, herds of deer, -antelope, and the wild ass, roam on the plains; there are also foxes, -wolves, jackals, and cats. There are bears in the Eastern mountains; -rats, tortoises, and lizards are found in the desert. The scorpion is -common; but its sting has little of its usual virulence: I speak from -experience. It is said that there are no snakes (and we certainly did -not meet with any) north of the Oxus. Locusts sometimes infest the -country, particularly about Balkh. The eagle and hawk are found; all -kinds of game are scarce. The plover and wild pigeon are common. Water -fowl are numerous in certain seasons. The crane, or “lug lugu,” as it -is called, builds its nest on the mosques of the cities: it is a bird -of passage, and reckoned sacred. The fish of the Oxus do not differ -from what are found in most Asiatic rivers. There is a species of the -dog-fish called “lukha,” which has no scales, and is frequently caught -of the weight of 600 lbs. English: the Uzbeks eat it. In the lake of -Karakool the fish have as good a flavour as those of the sea. There are -no monsters in the Oxus. We neither saw not heard of alligators. There -are few insects in a dry country. I observed a peculiarity in the food -of the bees and wasps which was new to me: they attacked a shoulder of -mutton, and ate very large holes in it; in winter they are sometimes -fed with flesh instead of sugar. The meat which I saw them devouring -was fresh, not putrid. They also attacked dried fish. - -~Silk-worms. Silk.~ - -The most valuable insect is the silk-worm, which is reared in all parts -of the kingdom where there is water. Every stream or rivulet is lined -with the mulberry; and the most extensive operations are carried on -along the banks of the Oxus, where the whole of the wandering tribes -are engaged in rearing the insect. The silk of the “Lub i ab,” or banks -of the river, as it is termed, is the most valuable, both from the -softness and fineness of its thread. The trees put forth their leaves -about the vernal equinox, when the worm is brought out, the whole stage -of its existence has terminated with the month of June. The worm is -killed in the cocoon by immersion in hot water; and the silk is then -reeled off on a wheel by an end or thread being taken from a number -of cocoons which lie clotted together. This silk is exported to India -and Cabool, and, from its abundance, may be purchased at a very cheap -rate. Silk is likewise produced in the neighbouring country of Kokan; -but it is more abundant than good. The raw silk is dyed by cochineal -and the productions already named, madder and “esbaruk.” A black colour -is produced by mixing iron filings with water in which rice has been -boiled, and allowing it to stand for a month. - -~Diseases. Guinea-worm.~ - -~Kolee, a kind of leprosy.~ - -~Cholera.~ - -Among the diseases of Bokhara, the most distressing is the guinea-worm, -or Dracunculus, here called “rishtu:” it is confined to the city. The -inhabitants believe that the disease arises from drinking the water -of the cisterns in summer, when they become fetid and infested with -animalculæ. Travellers suffer as much as the inhabitants; but the -disease does not show itself till the year following that on which they -have drank the water. Many of the Afghans are attacked after returning -to Cabool; and, whatever be the cause, it assuredly originates from -something peculiar to Bokhara, since all other parts of the country are -free from it. It is supposed that one fourth of the whole population -of Bokhara are annually attacked with guinea-worm. This prevalence of -the complaint has given the natives a dexterity of extracting them -quite unknown in other countries. So soon as it is discovered that -one has formed, and before any swelling has taken place, they pass a -needle under the middle of the worm, and, rubbing the part, draw it -out at once. They are generally successful; but if the worm breaks, -the wound festers, the pain is excessive, and few recover under three -months. If the animal be coiled in one place, the extraction is simple; -if deep in the flesh, more difficult. If the swelling has commenced, -they do not attempt the operation, but allow it to take its course, and -endeavour to draw it out by degrees, as in India. These worms vary in -length from three to four spans. It is said that guinea-worm is most -common among people of a cold temperament; but it does not attack any -particular class. The better orders of people, attributing it to the -water, send to the river for their supply, and never drink that of the -cisterns till it is boiled. It is not to be supposed that I can give -any solution of the cause of this disease: the doctors of Toorkistan -believe it to be a worm generated from the causes above-mentioned. Nor -can I credit its arising from the animalculæ of the water. Another -disease of the country is the “mukkom,” or “kolee,” a kind of leprosy. -Those afflicted with it are considered unclean: it does not cover the -body with spots, as in common leprosy, but the skin becomes dry and -shrivelled; the hair of the body falls off, the nails and teeth tumble -out, and the whole body assumes a horrible and unseemly appearance. The -disease is believed to be hereditary, and to originate from food: it is -fearfully prevalent in the districts of Samarcand and Meeankal; also in -the neighbouring states of Shuhr Subz and Hissar; all of which are rice -countries. Some state it to be caused by the use of the intoxicating -spirit called “boozu,” which is distilled from black barley; but that -liquor and mares’ milk are not used in Bokhara. The disease affects the -general health, and is incurable. The most humane people will tell you -that it is a curse from God, and drive the unfortunate sufferer from -them. A separate quarter of the city is assigned for the residence of -those who are afflicted, as was the case among the Jews. That scourge, -the cholera morbus, has been felt in all these countries. It appears -to have taken the route of the caravans, and advanced from India step -by step into eastern Europe. It raged for a year in Cabool; it then -crossed Hindoo Koosh on the following season, and desolated Balkh and -Koondooz. For a year it fluctuated between the valley of the Oxus and -Herat; it then attacked Bokhara, Kokan, and the other Uzbek states; -and, after devastating the country, passed on to Khiva, Orenburg, and -Astrakhan. The faculty have discovered no remedy for the cholera morbus. - -~Other diseases.~ - -The inhabitants of Toorkistan are subject to a constant dryness of -the skin: many of them lose their eyelashes and eyebrows, and their -skin becomes wrinkled and tawny. Whether the diet, or dryness of the -climate, causes these appearances, I know not. The Uzbeks seldom -eat horse-flesh; though it is believed that they live upon it. It -is considered heating food, and is, besides, expensive. Mutton is -preferred, and none but the lower orders eat beef. A sheep is killed, -and the entire tail, however large and fat, is melted up with the meat, -and cooked in a single boiler. They are fond of every thing oily, -and also use much cheese and sour milk. Ophthalmia is a very common -complaint in Toorkistan. Fevers are rare; in Balkh rheumatism is -prevalent. In the city of Bokhara rickets are common; and the children -have generally a puny and unhealthy appearance, which is not observable -in the grown-up people of the country. Among their medicines, I heard -of an oil extracted from the dung of sheep; which is considered a -specific for the sprains, bruises, and hurts of cattle: it is very -pungent, and the flies shun the parts rubbed with it. I have been -assured of the bone spavins of a horse being reduced by an application -of this oil. They procure it by a distilling process. - -~Cities and towns. Population of the kingdom.~ - -There are no large towns in the kingdom of Bokhara, but the capital. -It contains a population of about 150,000 souls. The ancient cities -of Samarcand and Balkh have long since dwindled into the obscurity -of provincial towns: they are both surpassed by Kurshee, which has -not a population of 10,000 souls. These are the only towns in the -country. There are some large villages, such as Jizzak, Kermina, and -Kutkoorghan; but none of them contain above 2500 people. The villages -are also few, and widely separated from one another; they amount to -about four hundred: nor can I estimate the whole population of the -kingdom of Bokhara at a million of human beings: and one half of -this population is made up of the nomade tribes that wander in its -deserts. The villages are fortified by mud walls, which are necessary -for their protection. In the cultivated parts, single habitations, -called “robats,” are scattered over the face of the country; and these -are invariably surrounded by walls; I need not enter upon any farther -account of the cities of Bokhara and Balkh, since they have been -mentioned in the narrative. - - - - -CHAP. II. - -THE RIVER OXUS, OR AMOO; WITH SOME NOTICE OF THE SEA OF ARAL. - - -~Source and course of the Oxus.~ - -The Oxus, or Amoo, is a river of considerable magnitude and classical -celebrity. It was known to the Greeks under the designation of Oxus: -the Asiatics call it Jihoon and Amoo. Jihoon means a flood, and is used -in all the Turkish and Persian works that treat upon these countries: -but the inhabitants on its banks now speak of the river under the name -of Amoo, calling it “Durya-i-Amoo,” the River, or literally, the Sea of -Amoo. I am not aware of any meaning that attaches to this title. The -Oxus rises in the table-lands of Pamere, and is formed by a variety -of rivulets which collect in that elevated region of Asia. According -to the information which I have received, its source is a degree more -northward and eastward than appears in Mr. Macartney’s map. It is -stated that four rivers, which flow in opposite directions, issue from -the vicinity of the lake Surikol: these are the Oxus, Sir or Jaxartes, -one of the heads of the Indus, and a portion of the waters of Tibet. -The Oxus waters the rich valley of Budukhshan, where it receives the -river of that name, the greatest of its tributaries, and is afterwards -joined by a variety of smaller streams from Koondooz and Hissar, which -have been described by Mr. Macartney. It winds among mountains, and, -approaching within twenty miles of the town of Khoolloom, and much -nearer than appears in our maps, passes about half a degree to the -north of Balkh. There are no hills between it and that ancient city, -as have been represented. It here enters upon the desert by a course -nearly N.W., fertilizes a limited tract of about a mile on either -side, till it reaches the territories of Orgunje or Khiva, the ancient -Kharasm, where it is more widely spread by art, and is then lost in the -sea of Aral. In the latter part of its course, so great is the body of -water drawn for the purposes of irrigation, and so numerous are the -divisions of its branches, that it forms a swampy delta, overgrown with -reeds and aquatic plants, impervious to the husbandman, and incapable -of being rendered useful to man, from its unvarying humidity. I will -not permit the much-disputed subject of the Oxus having terminated, at -a former period, in the Caspian instead of the Aral sea, to lead me -into a digression on that curious point. I have only to state, after -an investigation of the subject, and the traditions related to me, as -well as much enquiry among the people themselves, that I doubt the Oxus -having ever had any other than its present course. There are physical -obstacles to its entering the Caspian, south of Balkhan, and north of -that point; its more natural receptacle is the lake of Aral. I conclude -that the dry river beds between Astrabad and Khiva are the remains -of some of the canals of the kingdom of Kharasm, and I am supported -in this belief by the ruins near them, which have been deserted as -the prosperity of that empire declined. We shall thus account for -such appearances on obvious grounds, without calling in the aid of -earthquakes and other commotions of nature. - -~The sea of Aral.~ - -The Tartars inform you that the word “Aral” implies between, and that -that sea or lake is so called from its lying between the Sir and the -Amoo, the Jaxartes and the Oxus. It is a popular belief, that the -waters of the Aral pass by a subterraneous course into the Caspian. At -a spot called Kara Goombuz, between the seas, where the caravans halt, -some assert that the water is to be heard rushing beneath. It is said -to make a noise like the words “Kara doom,” which mean “I am thirsty;” -but the clock strikes what the fool thinks. The necessity of some such -subterraneous passage is obvious in the eyes of the people, since -the Aral has no outlet for two large rivers, but they do not think of -evaporation, which is great beyond belief in this dry country[23], -where there is also a perpetual wind. It is a curious fact, however, -that at Kara Goombuz, before mentioned, which appears to be a sandy -ridge, water is found close to the surface, while further south it -is not to be had nearer than 100 fathoms. The water of the Aral is -drinkable. It is seldom frozen in winter. In one of its many islands -they relate some tales of a colony that passed over the ice with their -herds and flocks, and has since had no opportunity of returning. The -banks of the Aral are peopled by wandering tribes, who cultivate great -quantities of wheat and other grain, which, with fish, that are caught -in abundance, form their food. The neighbourhood of the Aral is not -frequented by caravans. - -~Capabilities of the Oxus.~ - -The Oxus is a navigable river throughout the greater portion of its -course. Its channel is remarkably straight, and free from rocks, -rapids, and whirlpools; nor is it much obstructed by sand-banks: -were it not for the marshes which choke its embouchure, it might be -ascended from the sea of Aral to near Koondooz, a distance of 600 -miles. If we deduct the extent of that delta, commencing some way below -Orgunje, which does not exceed fifty miles, we have still an inland -line of navigation of 550 miles. The volume of water which this river -discharges appears great for the short extent of its course, but it is -the only drain of a wide and mountainous country. It is never fordable -after it has received the rivers of Koondooz and Talighan, which join -it under the name of Aksurai, below Huzrut Imam; these rivers are fed -by the melted snow on the northern side of the great Hindoo Koosh. -It may then only be so passed below that place (Huzrut Imam) for six -months during the year, when the ford is passable for artillery; which -has been frequently verified by the ruler of Koondooz. On leaving the -hilly ground below Kilef, about sixty miles north-west of Balkh, the -channel of the Oxus does not exceed 350 yards; on the plain it is -wider spread, and we crossed it at Khoja Salu, thirty miles below that -point, with a channel of 823 yards, as determined by the sextant. At -Charjooee, 200 miles lower down, within twenty leagues of Bokhara, -it had a channel of 650 yards. A detailed account of the river at -these points will furnish the best data for a determination of its -capabilities in a military and commercial point of view. - -~Depth, current, and slope of the Oxus.~ - -At Khojusalu, on the 17th of June, a month before the periodical swell -had attained its greatest height, the Oxus was divided into three -distinct branches, only separated from each other by sand-banks. The -width of these arms respectively was 295, 113, and 415 yards; which -gives the total breadth of 823 yards. The soundings were irregular, and -at the deepest place did not amount to twenty feet. An enumeration of -them follows:--6, 9, 12, 6 feet in the first branch; 6 feet throughout -the second; and 6, 9, 15, 19, 6, in the third and last. The medium -depth of this river will never, therefore, be less than nine feet, -since that is the product of 828 yards, divided by 92, the sum total -of all the feet in the different soundings. Nor can there be much -incorrectness in the approximation, since on the 17th of August, which -is precisely two months later, when the river had passed its greatest -rise, we had much the same volume of water at Charjooee, near Bokhara. -The breadth was less, but the soundings were greater, and five heaves -of the lead gave 12, 18, 29, 20, and 18 feet. The Oxus flows with a -velocity of 6000 yards, or nearly three and a-half miles an hour; and -I discover from the boiling point of water at the two places (Khoja -Salu and Charjooee), that there is a difference of one and one third -of a degree between them, which will give a slope of 800 feet in a -distance of 200 miles. This is a great fall in such a river on so -flat at country; and, since the boiling point of water is subject to -slight variations even at the same place according to the state of the -atmosphere, it must only be received as an approximation to the truth. -The smallest change in so rude an instrument, for so nice an operation, -produces a great error, but, after every allowance, I cannot rate this -fall under 600 feet, or about a yard a mile: the course of the river is -not tortuous, which always bespeaks a greater rapidity of descent. - -~Inundation of the Oxus.~ - -The Oxus is subject to a periodical swell, as are all the great rivers -which flow from the south of the same stupendous chain of mountains -in which it has its rise. In both cases the causes are similar,--the -melting of the snows in elevated regions. The inundation commences -in May, and ceases in October; but it is also subject to a second -and lesser flood during the rains of spring. It fluctuates in its -rise and fall with the state of the weather, rising under the sun of -a cloudless sky, and sinking with a denser atmosphere; while on its -banks, in June, it subsided a foot and a half in thirty-six hours, and -it had not then attained its height. The influence of the waters is -rarely felt for half a mile beyond the channel of the river, though its -inner banks are low and depressed, but there is a second bank varying -in distance from a mile and a half to two miles on either side, and -in some places more distant. The valley thus formed is clothed with -verdure and moistened, though seldom inundated by the swell. Here it -is that the inhabitants cultivate the land, and water it by industry -and art. In some instances the aqueducts extend inland for a distance -of four miles, and the water must then be raised by the Persian wheel -for irrigating the fields. On leaving this tract the scene changes to -sterility and desolation: the valley itself is in many places overgrown -with a bastard indigo, tamarisk, and rank weeds, and neglected by the -inhabitants. In winter, when the river has retired to its bed, it is -contracted to a space of 400 yards, but is never fordable. During the -swell, the waters of the Oxus are tinged by the soil of the mountains, -and assume a reddish hue. I ascertained that one fortieth of their body -consisted of silt suspended in the stream; while under the influence -of this snowy water, the river had a temperature of 73° at the summer -solstice, when the thermometer rose to 103° in the air. - -~Freezing of the Oxus.~ - -It would not have been suspected that so vast a river, in so low a -parallel as 38° north latitude, should be frozen during winter, which -is no rare occurrence with the Oxus. The upper part of its course above -Koondooz freezes annually, and passengers and beasts of burden cross -it on the ice, on their route to Yarkund; but there it flows in an -elevated region. In the desert, however, its waters are also congealed -in a severe winter. Below Khiva it freezes annually; and at Charjooee, -which is about seventy miles from Bokhara, it was frozen last year from -bank to bank. The season was remarkably cold, and the caravans passed -it on the ice. At Kirkee, half-way to Balkh, it was also frozen; but -at the ferry of Kilef, opposite that city, there was a narrow channel -in the middle of the stream, which prevented the passage of both boats -and caravans for a month. A stone could be thrown from the ice of -one bank to that of the other; and it is not doubted that the only -hindrance to their junction in this narrow part of the Oxus arose from -the rapidity of the current, that was hemmed in by a confined bank. It -is an established fact, that the temperature of deserts is both colder -and hotter than countries which are more favoured by nature. In the -torrid deserts of Toorkistan, there is a cold bleakness during winter, -which will account for the congelation of the Oxus; it is nevertheless -a curious fact in physical geography, since the Danube, which flows -parallel with the Oxus, and in a higher latitude by seven degrees, is -not subject to a like phenomenon. In winter, if the Oxus be not frozen, -the passage of boats is sometimes endangered by the masses of ice which -are floated down from the upper part of its course. These have been -known to sink a boat, and require attention on the part of the ferrymen. - -[Illustration: BOAT OF THE OXUS.] - -~Craft on the Oxus. Their build and number, &c.~ - -The boats which are used on the Oxus are of a superior description, -though they have neither masts nor sails. They are built in the shape -of a ship, with a prow at both ends, and are generally about fifty feet -long and eighteen broad. They would carry about twenty tons English; -they are flat-bottomed, and about four feet deep: when afloat, the -gunwale is about two and a half or three feet above the stream; for -they do not draw much more than a foot of water when laden. They are -constructed of squared logs of wood, each about six feet long, formed -of a dwarf jungle-tree, called “pukee,” or “sheeshum,” which grows -in great abundance throughout the banks of the river, and cannot be -procured of greater dimensions. These trees are felled, their bark -is peeled off, and they are chipped into a square shape, which makes -them ready for the workmen. The logs are clamped with iron, and, -though these boats have a rude appearance, there is a strength and -solidity in their build that admirably fits them for the navigation -of such a river. There are few boats in the higher part of the Oxus -above Charjooee. From that place to where it becomes fordable, near -Koondooz, there are about fifteen ferries, and as each is provided -with two, we have only a tonnage of thirty vessels in a distance of -three hundred miles. The reason is obvious, for the inhabitants make -no use of the navigable facilities of the Oxus. Below Bokhara the -supply increases, and there are about 150 boats between it and the -Delta, chiefly belonging to Orgunje. Here they are not appropriated -as ferry-boats, but used in the transport of merchandise to and from -Bokhara. The embarkations take place at Eljeek, on the north bank of -the river, about sixty-five miles from the city. Below the Delta there -are no boats; and I am informed that the sea of Aral is without vessels -of any other description than small canoes. In ascending, the boats are -dragged against the stream; and in dropping down make for the middle, -where the current is rapid, and float down with their broadsides to it. -Neither rafts nor skins are used on the Oxus. - -~Mode of navigating the Oxus.~ - -The manner of ferrying across is novel, and, I believe, peculiar to -this river; the boats are dragged across by horses, as I have fully -described in the narrative: nor should such a contrivance be lost sight -of by those who may use the Oxus as a navigable river. - -~Wood of the Oxus.~ - -Facilities in the navigation of a river rest much on the supplies of -the country through which it flows; in particular, of the nature and -quantity of wood which is there procurable. The number of boats on the -Oxus is certainly small, since they do not amount to two hundred; but -there is every facility for building a fleet, the supply of wood being -abundant, and fortunately found in single trees along the valley of -the river, and not growing in forests on any particular spot. There -are no cedar or pine-trees brought down by the inundation, which I -hold as conclusive proof that the mountains from which the Oxus and -its tributaries flow are destitute of that wood. The only other trees -which I saw on the river were mulberry and the white poplar; which -last is floated down in quantities from Hissar to Charjooee, and -applied to purposes of house-building. In any increase of the tonnage -on this river, the immediate resources of the neighbouring country -must therefore be called into action; but these are highly important. -The nature of the build in the boats of the river requires no skill -in naval architecture; the wood is not sawed, and it does not require -seasoning, so that the utmost despatch might be used at all times in -forming a flotilla, whether it were desired to navigate, cross, or -bridge it. I believe that 150 men might be embarked on a boat of the -size which I have described. The river could only be bridged by boats, -for the wood is too small for an application of it in any other way, -and the furze and tamarisk which grow in its banks would supply the -place of planks, and make it at once complete and practicable. A bridge -of boats was thrown across the Oxus by both Timour and Nadir, and the -remains of some temporary buildings erected by the latter conqueror -are still shown at the ferry of Kilef, north of Balkh. The river there -presents facilities for such an operation, since it has hillocks on -both sides, is narrow, and not _always_ rapid. Passengers frequently -swim across the river at this ferry. Below the mountains the Oxus has a -firm and sandy bed, and boats may be anchored by branches of trees in -all parts of its stream. - -~Political and commercial advantages of the Oxus.~ - -The advantages of the Oxus, both in a political and commercial point of -view, must, then, be regarded as very great: the many facilities which -have been enumerated point it out either as the channel of merchandize, -or the route of a military expedition; nor is it from the features of -the river itself that we form such a conclusion. It is to be remembered -that its banks are peopled and cultivated. It must therefore be viewed -as a river which is navigable, and possessing great facilities for -improving the extent of that navigation. This is a fact of great -political and commercial importance, whether an hostile nation may turn -it to the gratification of ambition, or a friendly power here seek for -the extension and improvement of its trade. In either case, the Oxus -presents many fair prospects, since it holds the most direct course, -and connects, with the exception of a narrow desert, the nations of -Europe with the remote regions of Central Asia. - - - - -CHAP. III. - - ON THE VALLEY OF THE UPPER OXUS; BEING A NOTICE OF KOONDOOZ, - BUDUKHSHAN, AND THE KAFFIR COUNTRY, WITH THE ADJACENT TERRITORIES. - - -~Sketch of the countries to be described.~ - -The countries north of Hindoo Koosh, which lie in the valley of the -Oxus, and its tributary rivers, from Balkh upwards, have no general -designation; eastward of that city lies Koondooz, under which all the -smaller provinces may be classed, since the Meer, or chief of that -state, has subdued them. Further to the eastward, we have the province -of Budukhshan, also a dependency of Koondooz. To the north of this -territory are the hill states of Wakhan, Shughnan, Durwaz, Koolab, -and Hissar; which are remarkable, as containing a race of people -that claim a descent from Alexander the Great. To the eastward of -Budukhshan lies the plain of Pamere, inhabited by the Kirghizzes; and -beyond the Beloot Tagh mountains we have Chitral, Gilgit, and Iskardo, -that extend towards Cashmere, and are also inhabited by tribes who -assert their Macedonian origin. South of Budukhshan is the country -of the Siahposh Kaffirs, a most singular people, who dwell among the -mountains of Hindoo Koosh. These are the provinces which it is now -proposed to describe; but we shall reserve any particular mention of -the descendants of Alexander for the following chapter, and proceed, in -the first place, to speak of the country and its productions. - -~Koondooz.~ - -Koondooz is situated in a valley among low hills, which extend from -east to west for about thirty miles, and from north to south about -forty, when it is bounded by the Oxus. It is watered by two rivers, -which join north of Koondooz, and are not fordable during the -melting of the snows in summer. The climate of this country is most -insalubrious: the heat is excessive, yet the snow lies for three months -during winter. The greater part of the valley is so marshy, that the -roads across are constructed on piles of wood, which are fixed among -noxious reeds and vegetation. Rice is reared in such places as are not -entirely inundated, and in the drier ground there is wheat and barley. -The fruit consists of apricots, plums, cherries, and mulberries, and it -ripens at Balkh and Khooloom about a fortnight sooner than at Koondooz. -The great mountain of Hindoo Koosh is in sight at Koondooz; but those -hills which form the valley on either side do not rise to a height of -a thousand feet from the plain. They are long ridgy high-lands, covered -with grass and flowers, but free from trees or brushwood, forming -valuable pasture lands. The town of Koondooz cannot boast a population -of 1500 souls; for it is deserted by the chief and the people. The -neighbouring districts do not partake of the unhealthiness of Koondooz. -Khooloom, Heibuk, Goree, Inderab, Talighan, and Huzrut Imam, are its -subjected districts, and except the last, which lies in the Oxus, they -possess a pleasant climate, and have a rich and prolific soil. These -districts are watered by rivulets flowing into the Oxus, and the soil -is valued by the facilities which it enjoys of being watered. Heibuk -and Khooloom stand on the same rivulet, the water of which is dammed up -on certain days, and allowed to run on others. The gardens on its banks -are rich and beautiful; and among the fruit-trees, one again meets the -fig, which does not grow in Cabool. - -~Budukhshan.~ - -The countries that lie higher up the Oxus have none of the defects of -climate which are peculiar to Koondooz, and both natives and foreigners -speak in rapture of the vales of Budukhshan, its rivulets, romantic -scenes and glens, its fruits, flowers, and nightingales. This district -lies along the valley of the Oxus; but its capital is further to the -south, and eastward of Koondooz. It is sometimes called Fyzabad, but -its more common and proper name is Budukhshan. This once celebrated -country is now almost without inhabitants; it was overrun by the chief -of Koondooz about twelve years ago: its ruler has been dethroned, and -his substitute exists as a mere pageant; its peasants have been marched -out of the country, and a rabble of lawless soldiery is now quartered -in the different provinces. It also suffered from an earthquake in -January, 1832, which destroyed many villages, and a great part of the -population. The roads through many parts of the country were blocked up -by the falling of stones, and the river of Budukhshan was hemmed in for -five days, by a hill that tumbled in upon it. This great convulsion of -nature occurred at midnight, and scarcely a family in the country but -deplored the loss of some of its members. It was felt at Mooltan and -Lahore, but the centre of its violence appears to have been the valley -of the Oxus. The natives of Budukhshan are Tajiks; they are very fond -of society, and such is their hospitality, that, it is said, bread is -never sold in the country. Their language is Persian, which they speak -with the broad pronunciation of a native of Iran. It is related that -Budukhshan was peopled from the Persian city of Balkh, and most of the -inhabitants are Shiahs. Neither the Uzbeks, nor any of the Toorkee -families, have settled in the country, and the people have yet the -manners and customs that obtained north of Hindoo Koosh before the -invasion of the Tartars. - -~Ruby mines.~ - -Budukhshan has acquired great celebrity for its ruby mines, which were -well known in early times, and also to the emperors of Delhi. They -are said to be situated on the verge of the Oxus, near Shughnan, at -a place called Gharan; which may simply mean caves. They are dug in -low hills; and one man assured me that the galleries passed under the -Oxus; but I doubt the information. It is a mistake to believe that -they are not worked, as the present chief of Koondooz has employed -people in digging them since he conquered the country. These persons -had been hereditarily engaged in that occupation; but, as the returns -were small, the tyrant of Koondooz demanded their labour without pay; -and on their refusing to work, he marched them to the unhealthy fens of -Koondooz, where their race has almost become extinct. In the search of -rubies, it is a popular belief that a pair of large ones will be always -found together; and the workmen will often conceal a gem till its match -can be found, or break a large ruby into two pieces. The rubies are -said to be embedded in limestone; and to be found like round pieces of -pebble or flint, which exist in such deposits. - -~Lapis lazuli.~ - -In the vicinity of the ruby mines, great masses of lapis lazuli are -found on the verge of the Oxus. The mode of detaching it from the -cliffs appeared to be ingenious, though I think I have heard of similar -means being used to quarry stone in other quarters. A fire is lit over -the block of lapis lazuli, and when the stone becomes sufficiently -heated, cold water is dashed upon it, and the rock is thus fractured. -The lapis lazuli of the Oxus was sent in former years to China; but the -demand has lately decreased. I have seen many specimens of this stone, -with veins, which were said to be gold; but I imagine they were mica. -Lapis lazuli and rubies are only collected in winter. - -~Mountain districts north of Budukhshan.~ - -North of Koondooz, and Budukhshan, and beyond the Oxus, we have the -small hill states of Hissar, Koolab, Durwaz, Shoognan, and Wukhan: the -whole of them are mountainous. Hissar is finely watered, and a rice -country, independent of Bokhara and Koondooz. It is held by four Uzbek -chiefs, who divided it among themselves on their father’s death; its -capital stands on a hillock forty miles east of Dihnou. A range of -hills called Kohitun, which are about 4000 feet high, traverses the -district from north to south. There is an extensive deposit of red rock -salt in it, which is exported to other countries. The saddle used by -the natives of Hissar differs from others in Toorkistan. The tree, or -seat, is scooped out like a bowl, and is then covered with leather: -it has a knob in front. The ferry of Tirmez on the Oxus, bounds -Hissar on the west; and to the east it has Koolab, which is a small -district,--sometimes called Bulgeewan. It has lately been seized by the -chief of Koondooz, who forded the Oxus and conquered it. Durwaz is the -next territory, and is ruled by a Tajik chief, who is independent. In -his territories, the Oxus is most successfully washed for gold. The two -next districts of Shughnan and Wukhan are tributary to Koondooz; but -there are not more than three or four villages in each of them. Wukhan -is the territory mentioned by Marco Polo; and the few specimens which I -could collect of its language were as follows:-- - - Father Fait - Mother Nan - Son Kash - Daughter Poorchad - Fire Rekhnu - Water Yoobk. - -The chief of Wukhan is named Meer Mahommed Ruheem Khan, and will allow -none of his progeny to leave the hills. The people of Shughnan differ -also in their dialect. I give a specimen of three words:-- - - Bread Gurdu - Son Ghudyk - Daughter Ghuds. - -The whole of the population is Mahommedan; and I did not hear of any -trace of pristine superstition. They designate the Deity by the Persian -word Khooda. I heard of a singular practice among the people of these -districts, who shoe their horses with the antlers of the mountain deer. -They form the horn into a suitable shape, and fix it on the hoof with -horn pins, never renewing it till fairly worn out. It is said that the -custom is borrowed from the Kirgizzes. - -~Plain of Pamere.~ - -The high plain of Pamere lies between Budukhshan and Yarkund; and -is inhabited by an erratic race, the Kirgizzes. The centre of this -table-land is the lake of Surikool, from which the Jaxartes, the -Oxus, and a branch of the Indus are said to rise. This elevated plain -extends on every side of the lake for a journey of six days; and all -the mountains are described as seen under the feet from this great -elevation. It is a flat tract, intersected by shallow ravines, and -covered with short but rich pasture: it is very cold; and the snow -in summer does not disappear from the hollows. The inhabitants robe -their whole bodies, even their hands and faces, in sheepskins, from -the severity of the cold. There is no grain in the country; for the -Kirgizzes subsist on flesh and milk: they do not even know the use -of flour; and, if it is given them, they mix it up with their soup, -but never bake it into bread. They live on round khirgahs, like the -Toorkmun tribes, and wander from one place to another. - -~Singular animal that inhabits Pamere.~ - -I heard of an animal called “Rass” by the Kirgizzes, and “Kooshgar” -by the natives of the low countries; which is described as peculiar -to Pamere. It is larger than a cow, and less than a horse; of a white -colour, with pendent hair under its chin, and crowned with horns of -huge dimensions. These are described to be so large, that no one man -can lift a pair of them; and, when left on the ground, the small foxes -of the country bring forth their young inside them. The flesh of the -“Rass” is much prized by the Kirgizzes, who hunt and shoot it with -arrows. This animal is said to delight in the coldest climate; and -would appear, from its beard, to be of the goat species, or, perhaps, -the bison. A common-sized “Rass” will require two horses to bear its -flesh from the field. - -~Countries of Chitral, Gilgit, and Iskardo.~ - -The tract that lies beyond the Beloot mountains and Budukhshan, and -between it and Cashmere, is filled up by the cantons of Chitral, -Gilgit, and Iskardo, all of which are held by Shiah Mahommedans. There -is another district to the north-east of Chitral, which is called -“Gunjoot,” from the gold which is found in it. The countries of which I -now speak have been designated by the general name of Kaushgar, by Mr. -Elphinstone; and are separated from Budukhshan by the range of Beloot. -Kaushgar itself is a small district near Deer, north of Peshawur; and -I never heard a native of Budukhshan or Yarkund speak of the country -under that general name. They had not even heard of any Kaushgar but -that in the vicinity of Yarkund. Chitral is situated on a branch of the -Cabool river, and is subject to the chief of Koondooz, who has at times -entered the country; and new demands a yearly tribute of slaves, who -are sent to Bokhara for sale. The chief has the title of Shah Kuttore, -and boasts of his Macedonian lineage. The dialect of Chitral differs -again from that of the neighbouring states; and I fortunately met a -native who was acquainted with it: he gave me these specimens:-- - - Mother Nunan - Son Dirk - Daughter Jaor - Man Mach - Woman Kumoor - Water Oogh - Fire Ungar - Above Acha - Below Aye - Mountain Koh - Fort Noghar - I go Booghdo - Where do you go? Koora roobas. - -The next district is Gilgit, or Gilgitty, where the dialect also -differs from Chitral: it is a strong country, and independent of -Koondooz. The remaining division lies further eastward, bordering on -Baltee or Little Tibet, and bears the name of Iskardo. The principal -place of the same name is a large fort of irregular construction, which -is built on the banks of the Indus, and is said to be but eight marches -north-east of the City of Cashmere. The country is independent. - -~The Kaffirs.~ - -~Their descent from Alexander doubted.~ - -On the south-eastern corner of Budukhshan, and on the mountains between -it and Peshawur, we find that extraordinary people, the Siahposh -Kaffirs, or Black-vested Infidels, as called by their Mahommedan -neighbours, from their wearing black goat-skin dresses. This race -is entirely confined to the mountains, and persecuted by all the -surrounding nations, who seek to capture them as slaves. The chief of -Koondooz made an inroad into their country some years since, and lost -half of his army in the campaign. I can offer no further addition to -the notice of their religion and country, than is to be found in Mr. -Elphinstone’s work, though I met the worthy and faithful man Moollah -Nujeeb, who was sent into Kaffiristan for the purposes of enquiry. I -had much conversation with people who had been brought into contact -with them, and in Cabool was fortunate enough to see a Kaffir boy about -ten years old, who had left his country for a period of two years; -his complexion, hair, and features, differed from those of Asiatics: -his eyes were of a bluish colour. The boy replied to many questions -that were put to him about his country, and gave specimens of his -language, which assimilated with the Indian dialects. The Kaffirs -appear to be a most barbarous people, eaters of bears and monkies, -and fighting with arrows, and scalping their enemies. The greatest -intercourse which takes place between them and the Mahommedans is -carried on from the country of Lughman, between Cabool and Peshawur, -where a tribe of people reside who are called “Neemchu Moossulman,” or -half Mahommedans. The Kaffir country is strong and mountainous. The -people are much addicted to wine. Gold is found in its native state -among their mountains, and formed by them into vessels and ornaments. -These circumstances, with their appearance and complexion, have given -rise to an opinion, that they are the descendants of the Greeks. Both -Baber and Abool Fuzzil have made mention of this supposition; but they -have confounded the claims of the chiefs on the Oxus to a Macedonian -descent with the Kaffirs, who have no such tradition of their origin. -The great elevation of the country which they inhabit, would appear -to account satisfactorily for all their physical peculiarities; and -I believe it will be found that this people are none other than the -aborigines of the plains, who fled to their present abode on the -conversion of the low countries to the religion of Mahommed: the -Afghans, at least, tell you so, and the name of Kaffir, or Infidel, -seems a strong corroboration of the opinion. The Kaffirs are a race -of savages, and there is nothing either in their customs or religion -which seems to be anywise remarkable among a people at their state of -civilisation. The hill tribes in India have a religion which differs as -much from Hindooism as that of the Kaffirs; and the reason is obvious: -they inhabit remote regions, that were not accessible to the manners -and alterations which found their way into the more favoured plains. -The Kaffir women do all the out-door work, and follow the plough: it is -even said that they are sometimes yoked in it along with an ox. - - - - -CHAP IV. - - ON THE REPUTED DESCENDANTS OF ALEXANDER THE GREAT IN THE VALLEY OF THE - OXUS AND INDUS. - - -~Traditions of the descendants of Alexander the Great.~ - -In speaking of the existence of Grecian colonies in the remote regions -of Asia, and said to be descended from Alexander of Macedon, it is -necessary to premise that I am not indulging in speculation, but -asserting a lineage of various tribes of people, that is claimed by -themselves, and meriting, therefore, our attention. Marco Polo is -the first author who mentions the existence of such a tradition, and -informs us that the Meer of Budukhshan laid claim to a Grecian origin. -The emperor Baber corroborates the testimony; and Abool Fuzzul, the -historian of his grandson, Acbar, points to the Kaffir country north -of Peshawur as the seat of these Macedonians. Mr. Elphinstone has, I -think, successfully refuted the supposition of this historian; for the -Kaffirs are a savage and mountainous tribe, without a tradition on the -subject, as has been noticed in the preceding chapter. Mr. Elphinstone, -however, confirms the statements of Marco Polo, by the information -that the chief of Durwaz, in the valley of the Oxus, claimed a descent -from Alexander, which was admitted by all his neighbours. Such was the -extent of information with which I entered these countries, sufficient, -it will be said, to excite the utmost curiosity; and it will be -seen that I found ample encouragement in the investigation of such -traditions while in the valley of the Oxus, and in the very seats of -their existence. - -~Their actual condition.~ - -If it was believed that the chiefs of Budukhshan and Durwaz alone laid -claim to these hereditary honours, what was my surprise to find that -there were _six other_ personages established, to the satisfaction -of the people, in like honours. The chiefs that extend eastward of -Durwaz, and occupy the provinces of Koolab, Shughnan, and Wakhan, -north of the Oxus, claim the same descent. The chief of Budukhshan -received in modern times the same honours as have been ascribed to -him by the Venetian traveller. He has the title of Shah and Malik, -or King, and his children that of Shahzadu; but this ancient house -has been subverted within these twelve years by the Meer of Koondooz, -and Budukhshan is now held by a Toork family. To the eastward of -Budukhshan, and extending to Cashmere, lie the hill states of Chitral, -Gilgit, and Iskardo, where the claims to a Grecian descent are -likewise conceded to each of the princes. The first of these has the -title of Shah Kuttore. The present ruler is of small stature, and, in -these countries, has as great a celebrity for his long beard as the -Shah of Persia. The chief of Iskardo occupies a singular fortress on -the Indus, which he has the hardihood to assert was constructed in -the days of Alexander himself. The country borders on Little Tibet, -or Baltee. Nor is this the ultimate limit of the tradition, for -the soldiers of the Toonganee tribe, who are sent from the western -provinces of Chinese Tartary, and garrison Yarkund and the neighbouring -cities, claim also a Grecian origin. They, however, seek, with greater -modesty, a descent from the soldiers of Alexander’s army, and not from -the conqueror himself. - -~Examination of these claims.~ - -Such is a correct list of the reputed descendants of Alexander, and -it is in some degree confirmatory of their claim, that the whole of -these princes are Tajiks, who were the inhabitants of this country -before it was overrun by Toorkee or Tartar tribes. But how shall we -reconcile these accounts with the histories that have travelled down to -our times, whence we learn that the son of Philip did not even leave -an heir to inherit his gigantic conquests, much less a numerous list -of colonies, which have survived a lapse of more than 2000 years in -a distant quarter of Asia? Whether their descent is viewed as true or -fabulous, the people themselves acknowledge the hereditary dignity of -the princes; and they, in their turn, claim every royal honour, and -refuse to give their children in marriage to other tribes. These Tajiks -being now converted to Islam, view Alexander as a prophet; and to the -distinction which they derive from his warlike achievements, they add -the honour of being related to one of the inspired messengers of the -Deity. I have had opportunities of conversing with some members of -the Budukhshan family, but there was nothing in form or feature which -favoured their Grecian lineage. They are fair-complexioned, and not -unlike the Persian of modern times; while there is the most decided -contrast between them and the Toorks and Uzbeks. - -~Conjectures regarding them.~ - -We learn from the historians of Alexander’s expedition, that he -warred in the kingdom of Bactriana. The city of Balkh, which lies -in the vicinity of these territories, is readily fixed upon as the -Bactra of the Greek monarchs. Setting aside every local identity, the -modern inhabitants state, that the country between Balkh and Cabool -had the name of “Bakhtur Zumeen,” or the Bakhtur country, in which we -recognise Bactria. The fact renders it by no means improbable, that -a Grecian colony had some time or other existed in the country. It -may, therefore, be supposed, that the Grecian dynasty, which succeeded -Alexander in his empire, ascended the valley of the Oxus, the fertility -of which would attract them. They would have been conducted at Iskardo -into Baltee, or Little Tibet, and the neighbourhood of Cashmere; and we -may perhaps account for the early civilisation of that beautiful valley -in such a migration of Grecian colonists. The introduction of the -religion of Mahommed into every country seems to have been fatal to its -historical annals; and I doubt not that any traces which here existed -of the Macedonian inroad, or of the Seleucidæ, their successors, -were effaced in that great revolution. I have already observed, that -the countries on the upper course of the Oxus seem to have lain out -of the channel of Tartar invasion, and I infer, from their language -and connection with Persia, that they followed the destinies of that -country, which would be favourable to their having been conquered by -Alexander. If we cannot bring ourselves to concede to these moderns -the illustrious lineage of Alexander of Macedon, we must yet receive -their tradition as the most concurring proof of his having overrun -these countries; and, till some well-grounded arguments can be brought -forward to the contrary, I cannot, for my own part, deny their title to -the honours which they claim. I received the information from several -natives of the country; and, as they entertained no doubt of its being -genuine and authentic, I have contented myself with recording that -which will enable others to enlarge and speculate upon it. - - - - -CHAP. V. - -ON THE SOURCES OF THE INDUS. - - -~Interest attached to the sources of the Indus.~ - -The sources of the different great rivers of the world have at all -times excited the particular attention of mankind. Of none has our -information been more conflicting and obscure than the upper course -of the Indus. I record the following particulars relating to this -most interesting geographical subject, the result of my intercourse -with the people of the neighbouring countries. My enquiries have been -materially assisted by the labours of Lieutenant Macartney, though a -wide difference will be found between the heads of the Indus, as now -described, and their delineation in that officer’s map. Great, however, -is the aid which one derives from the records of a preceding enquirer. -The papers of Mr. Moorcroft ought to furnish us with some information -on this point; but they are still unpublished, and his journey, -though it extended nearer to the scene than that of any other modern -traveller, was yet distant from the source of the Indus. - -~Received opinions.~ - -~Errors.~ - -The following are our present and received opinions regarding the -source of the Indus. The river of Ladak, joined by the Shyook, falls -into the Indus at Draus, and these united streams form the great river -which runs north of Cashmere, and is joined by the Aboo Seen before -passing Attok. The town of Leh, or Ladak, is placed above the parallel -of 37° N. latitude, and Draus lies nearly half way between it and the -city of Cashmere. This account differs materially from the information -which I have received. The river of Ladak, and the Shyook, instead of -existing as two minor tributaries of the Indus, form of themselves -that great river; the one rising near the lake of Mansurour, and the -other in the mountains of Karakorum. They unite N.W. of Ladak, and -pass through the country of Little Tibet, or Baltee, and a snowy range -separates them from Cashmere. Ladak lies nearly eastward of Cashmere, -which places it three degrees of latitude below the parallel given to -it by Mr. Macartney; and Draus is on the road to Ladak.[24] No such -junction as is given in the map takes place at Draus, and the rivulet -that passes that village, instead of forming a portion of the waters -of the Indus, runs among the mountains of Cashmere, and joins the -Jelum, or Hydaspes, at Moozufferabad, as it leaves the valley. This -fact is mentioned in a note in Mr. Elphinstone’s book, on the authority -of a journal of Meer Izzut Oollah, which he received after his own -account was written. It may have been owing to this last circumstance -that he overlooked the inconsistency of Izzut Oollah’s statement -with the existence of Mr. Macartney’s eastern branch of the Indus. -Mr. Elphinstone, indeed, observes, that Izzut Oollah did not see the -junction of that branch with the river of Ladak; but he accounts for -it by supposing the confluence to lie to the south of the place called -Draus in Izzut Oollah’s route. If that route be protracted, however, -it will show that the river of Ladak could not well have passed to the -south of Draus without falling into the course of the Kishun Gunga; and -that, even if the junction had taken place to the south of Draus, both -rivers must still have been crossed (either united or separately) by -Izzut Oollah before he reached Draus. - -It is evident, therefore, that the rivers do not meet at or to the -south of Draus; and, as Izzut Oollah went from Draus to the river of -Ladak, and accompanied that river to the town from which it takes -its name, without seeing the junction of any other river from the -east, his account may be regarded as a confirmation of the fact which -I have stated, that no such eastern branch exists. It is worthy of -observation, that Mr. Macartney’s account of the eastern branch of the -Indus appears to have been only communicated by one person. - -~Description of the two great branches which form the Indus.~ - -That the river of Ladak has its source near the lake of Mansurour has -been satisfactorily established by Moorcroft. The course of this branch -of the Indus is, therefore, of great length; but the volume of water -has been described to me as very small, though it receives several -tributaries. The Shyook, on the other hand, is said to be a vast river, -formed of many small ones, and discharges the water and melted snows -of the Kara Korum mountains. Three days’ journey from Ladak, on the -route to Yarkund, it is crossed at a breadth of 1000 yards in March; -but widely spread and fordable. This is considered by the natives as -the great trunk of the Indus, and its source, to the N.E. of Ladak, -is, consequently, that of the Indus. The united streams of the river -of Ladak and Shyook pass south of the territories of Iskardo, Gilgit, -and Chitral. They are then joined by the Aboo Seen, as described by Mr. -Elphinstone, and at Attok, by the river of Cabool, here called the -Lundee, which falls into the Indus, close upon the fortress, and not -some miles higher up. - -~Western branch of the Indus.~ - -The sources of this river, commonly called the River of Cabool, are -nearly as remote as those to the eastward, which we have now described. -The River of Cabool actually rises near Ghuzni; but, in its course -eastward of Jullalabad, is joined by a great river that has been called -the Kameh, though it is unknown to the natives by such a name. This -river is traced to the same source as the Oxus; where it is said to -spring from a glacier.[25] That it rises in the same neighbourhood as -the Oxus, I have been also informed; but that river (as I have stated -when speaking of it) flows from the plain of Pamere, near Lake Sirikol, -and not from the ranges of mountains which support that elevated -region. This great western branch of the Indus, therefore, rises under -a much higher parallel of latitude than the Shyook. - -~Cashgar; erroneous opinions regarding it.~ - -The country, which is enclosed by these different branches of the -Indus, has been called Kashkaur, or Cashghar, in our late maps; -which Mr. Elphinstone warns the reader not to confuse with Cashgar, -near Yarkund. At Peshawur, I certainly heard of a small mountainous -district, near Deer and Gunjoom, called Cashgar, and which is well -known for its coarse blankets; but the name has been applied to a -far greater extent of country than is even known to the natives of -Peshawur. North of Hindoo Koosh, in Koondooz, and the borders of -Budukhshan, I could find no person who was acquainted with any country -under the name of Cashgaur, but that of Yarkund. They spoke of Chitral -and Gilgit, which form part of it, according to the modern nomenclature -of our maps, but knew nothing of the southern Cashgar as a separate -territory; doubtless from the smallness of the district and its remote -position[26]. Since the whole of the information contained in this -chapter rests on the authority of others, the credence to which it is -entitled must be well weighed. I have the information from people who -had seen these rivers and countries, and I have given the facts, after -due corroboration and enquiry. - - - - -CHAP. VI. - -NOTICE ON YARKUND, AND ITS INTERCOURSE WITH PEKIN, BOKHARA, AND TIBET. - - -~Chinese provinces of Yarkund.~ - -Yarkund is one of the frontier positions of the Chinese empire towards -the west, and a five months’ journey of a caravan from the seat of -government, Pekin. The productions of China are transmitted to this -province, and sold to the natives of Bokhara and Tibet, who are -permitted to frequent certain fixed markets; of which the greatest is -Yarkund. No Chinese crosses the frontiers; and the trade into Bokhara -is carried on by Mahommedans, who visit Yarkund for that purpose. The -same vigilance to prevent the ingress of foreigners is here exhibited -as upon the sea-coast. In my communications with the Uzbeks of Bokhara, -I heard much of the Chinese peculiarities, and I had an opportunity of -travelling with a tea caravan from Yarkund; which leads me to believe -that a notice of this country, imperfect as it must be, will not be -uninteresting. - -~Sketch of its history.~ - -Yarkund, with the adjacent province of Cashgar, formed the principality -of a Mahommedan ruler, known by the name of the Khoju of Cashgar, a -family of religious influence, who once exercised great authority. -The people of these parts superstitiously believed its members to be -invulnerable in battle, and able to use extraordinary means for the -discomfiture of their enemies, and yet think it impossible for any -one to prosper who injures a Khoju. Dissensions, however, arose in -this family about eighty years since, and they called on the Chinese -government, or the “Khitais,” (so they are here named,) as a mediator, -which, as not unfrequently happens, acted the part of conqueror. -Since that time, the Chinese have retained the whole of their lands; -not, however, without many endeavours, both by war and conspiracy, on -the part of the dethroned family, at restoration. The last of these -attempts occurred about five years since, aided by the Uzbeks of Kokan; -but the Chinese assembled an army from their most distant provinces, -and, advancing into that country, captured the rebellious Khoju, and -sent him in a cage, or covered cart, to Pekin. The Khan of Kokan, -though he was defeated, has since arrogated to himself the title of -“Ghazee,” from having warred with infidels. On the first overthrow of -this family, some of the Khojus fled to Budukhshan, and the chief of -that province put them to death: for which _good office_ the Chinese -sent him a yearly present, till within these five or six years, -when his country was seized by the Meer of Koondooz. The bigotted -Mahommedans attribute the misfortunes of the Budukhshan family to the -injuries offered to the Khoju of Cashgar. While such opinions prevail, -the members of it must continue to be disagreeable neighbours to the -Chinese. - -~Mode of government under the Chinese.~ - -The period which has elapsed since the capture of Yarkund has no way -diminished the precautions of the Chinese government. Yarkund is still -considered but an outpost, and the communication between it and Pekin -maintained in a most characteristic manner. The government of all the -cities is left in the hands of Mahommedans, and there are not above -5000 Chinese in Yarkund. The garrisons are recruited from boys of -fourteen and fifteen, who are sent back after about as long a period -of service. These soldiers are drawn from the tribe of Toonganee, who -claim relationship to the army of Alexander: they are Mahommedans, -from the adjacent provinces, but dress as Chinese. They are never -permitted to marry, or bring their families within fifteen marches of -the country, and are regarded as troops on foreign employ. The natives -of the country rule, under the superintendence of the Chinese officers. -The governor of Yarkund, who has the title of Hakim Beg, is subject to -Cashgar; and he, again, is under the Junjoom of Eela, a large city, -forty marches north of Yarkund. The principal places in these frontiers -are, Eela, Yarkund, Cashgar, Aksoo, Karasoo, Yengi hissar, &c. Eela -is said to have a population of 75,000 souls. Yarkund ranks next in -importance, and has 50,000; while Cashgar is smaller than both. Yarkund -stands on a river, in a fertile plain, which is rich in fruit and -grain. It is surrounded on all sides but the east by hills, where the -river flows. The climate is dry and agreeable; snow seldom falls, and -even rain is scarce. - -~Communication with Pekin.~ - -The mode of communication with Pekin, or, as it is called, Bajeen, -and their eastern provinces, is carried on with an arrangement and -expedition purely Chinese. The usual journey exceeds the period of -five months; but an express may be sent in thirty-five days. Under -great emergency, it is conveyed in twenty, and even fifteen days. -“Oortungs,” or stages, where there are relays of horses, are erected -every eight or ten miles, and one messenger is not even permitted to -exchange a word with another. At each of these stages there are piles -of wood, which are directed to be set fire to on the intelligence of -arising or invasion of the Mahommedans; and by this means intelligence -has been sent from Yarkund to Pekin in six days. I have heard that -fire-balloons are used instead of piles of wood; but I believe that -in the latter we have the more simple and correct version of the tale. -It was on this intimation that the last Chinese army was marched into -Kokan; and it is said to have been assembled from all the cities of -the empire, and amounted to 70,000 men. The military appearance of -this body is said to have been truly singular. A great portion of the -soldiers were armed with large matchlocks, each of which was borne by -two persons. - -~People of Yarkund.~ - -The Chinese of Yarkund interfere but little with the affairs of the -country, and leaving it and its trade to the Mahommedan portion of the -population, the authorities levy a duty of one in thirty; and their -commercial regulations are just and equitable. The word of a Chinese is -not doubted, nor does the tea ever differ in quality from the sample. -The Mahommedans of Yarkund amount to about 12,000 families. They are -Toorks, and speak a dialect of Toorkee that is perfectly intelligible -to the natives of Bokhara. The country people are sometimes called -Moghuls by those who live in cities; and from this may have originated -our vague name of Mongolia. There are Calmuk Tartars settled around -Eela and Yarkund, who have a singular custom to distinguish their -chiefs and grandees, by fixing deer’s horns on their skull-caps. The -size and beauty of the antlers mark the dignity, and are the red -ribbons of a Calmuk Tartar. The laxity of their females, I am assured, -entitles them to the honour of wearing such an ornament. The Chinese -employ Calmuks in the protection of their frontier. The Mahommedans -of Yarkund appear to differ from their brethren elsewhere, for the -fair sex have a power and influence not known in other places. They -take the seat of honour in a room, associate freely with the men, -and do not veil; they wear high-heeled boots, richly ornamented; -their head-dress is described as very handsome, being a high tiara of -cloth; the features of the fair ones themselves are said to be most -beautiful. When a Bokhara merchant visits Yarkund, he marries one of -these beauties during his sojourn in the city; and the pair separate, -as they joined, quite as a matter of convenience, when he leaves the -country. Their wives are as cheap as beautiful, and purchased at a -premium of two or three tillas (twelve or eighteen rupees); and the -merchants, long after leaving the country, sing the praises of the fair -ones of Yarkund. I could not discover what had given rise to their -appearing without veils and being invested with such influence; but -I congratulate them on two such infringements of Mahommedan usage. -Besides the native Chinese, who frequent Yarkund, I am informed -that Christian merchants, probably Armenians, also visit it from the -eastward: they dress as Chinese. - -~Intercourse with Tibet.~ - -The intercourse from Tibet and Bokhara is carried on by regulations -that are truly energetic. The natives of these countries are not -permitted to proceed beyond Yarkund and the neighbouring towns, and, -as they enter the Chinese dominions, are placed under certain persons, -who have a knowledge of the countries from which they come, and made -responsible for their behaviour. So thoroughly organised is this system -of police, that it is said to be impossible to elude its vigilance. A -native who was suspected in these countries, and was afterwards in my -service, remained in confinement for three months, and was at length -dismissed by the route he had come, but not till a likeness of him had -been first taken. Several copies of the picture were despatched to -the frontier towns, with these instructions:--“If this man enters the -country, his head is the Emperor’s, his property is yours.” I need not -add, that he has never since sought to extend his acquaintance in the -Chinese provinces of Yarkund. - -~Country between Yarkund and Tibet.~ - -I had a most interesting account of the country lying between Yarkund -and Ladak, in Tibet, from a native who had travelled there, and which -will convey any but favourable notions of this channel of commerce, -frequented, as it appears partially to be. The traveller set out from -Ladak in March, and reached Yarkund in sixty days, after encountering -a series of disasters and difficulties from a storm that arose in -passing the mountains of Kara Korum. The number of actual marches -does not exceed twenty-eight, but seven whole days were occupied in -crossing Kara Korum; which is described as a low ridge, at the eighth -march. Such was the violence of the north wind, and the drifting of -the snow, that for some days the party only made a progress of a -hundred yards. Though Kara Korum is not a high range of mountains, it -must be elevated, since a difficulty of breathing was experienced; -also vomiting, giddiness, and loss of appetite. For all these tea was -considered a specific. The storm abated, and enabled the travellers -to proceed; but eight of their ponies had died, and the whole party -must soon have perished, for the animals had ate up the straw of -their saddles and cushions before regaining the inhabited country, -which commenced at the eighteenth march from Ladak. There they met a -few huts, inhabited by the Wakhanees, of whom I have before spoken. -They carried every supply for themselves and their horses. At the -seventeenth march the travellers encountered a defile among hills -which extended for five or six miles, and is called Yengi Dabban. The -road led entirely over ice, which was notched into steps before they -could proceed. On returning to Ladak in June, the ice had entirely -disappeared: even Kara Korum was free from snow. This is singular, as -it must be higher than Hindoo Koosh, which is covered by eternal snow. -To the south of Kara Korum all the rivers join the Shyook; and it is -evident, therefore, that that ridge, low as it actually appears, is -the highest part of the range. North of it the water flows into the -river of Yarkund, and the road follows these defiles, and, in one short -distance, is said to cross a rivulet three hundred and sixty times. The -last passage is called “Khilastan,” from being relieved of its further -inconvenience. The greater part of this country is destitute of fixed -inhabitants, but the wandering Kirghizzes frequent it with their flocks -during summer; this road is then passed in twenty days. The number -of horses which perish on this line of route is great; and it is not -an unusual thing for an owner to pick up his goods next year on the -spot where they were left. There are no robbers: the wild horse is the -solitary inhabitant of this wilderness. - -~Communications of Yarkund with Bokhara.~ - -~Notice of Kokan.~ - -The intercourse between Bokhara and Yarkund is carried on by two -routes, leading through the valleys of the Sir, or Jaxartes, and the -Oxus. The first of these routes passes by Kokan, the ancient Ferghana, -and is always passable but in the three summer months, when it is -flooded by melted snow. There are two places on this route where the -traveller experiences a difficulty of breathing. The disturbances with -the exiled Khoju and the Uzbeks of Kokan have of late years closed this -route to caravans; but it is the best line of communication between -Yarkund and Toorkistan. The route by the plain of Pamere and the valley -of the Oxus, through Budukhshan and Balkh, is more circuitous, and -likewise less accessible. I have described both these lines of route, -when speaking of the commerce of Bokhara; I have only, therefore, -to make a brief mention of Kokan, which is the paternal kingdom of -Baber. It is ruled by an Uzbek Khan, of the tribe of Yooz, who claims -a lineage from that Emperor. It is a much smaller territory than -Bokhara, and its power is now on the decline: it is celebrated for its -silk. The capital of the country is Kokan, which is an open town on -the Sir, about half the size of Bokhara, and the largest place in that -neighbourhood. The ancient capital is Marghilan: Indejan is, however, -a town of considerable note; and the Chinese of Yarkund denominate all -natives who come from the west, Indejanees. The inhabitants of Kokan -wear skull-caps instead of turbans. The Khan of Kokan keeps up an -intercourse with Russia and Constantinople; but there is no friendly -feeling towards the rulers of Yarkund. - - - - -CHAP. VII. - -ON THE MOUNTAINS OF HINDOO KOOSH. - - -~Hindoo Koosh; range so called.~ - -~Errors regarding it.~ - -When the great range of the Himalaya, which forms the northern boundary -of Hindoostan, crosses the Indus, it loses the designation by which it -has been familiarly known from the frontiers of China. It also changes -its course, and, running west, expends its greatest height in the -lofty peak of Hindoo Koosh, from which it dwindles into comparative -insignificance. The elevation of the peak appropriately affixes the -name of Hindoo Koosh to this portion of the range; but this general -term is unknown to the people. A road which leads across the shoulder -of this mountain is also called the “pass of Hindoo Koosh.” The part -which I am now about to describe lies between Cabool and Balkh, and is -that which we traversed in our journey to Bokhara. In the plains of -the Punjab we had had a magnificent view of the stupendous mountains -which separate Cashmere from the plains; and it is to them that the -natives affix the name of Himalaya, without confining it to the -mountains beyond that celebrated valley. On crossing the Indus, we -found ourselves much nearer this great range, now termed Hindoo Koosh, -than is represented in our maps. In the valley of the Cabool River, it -seemed to overhang the road which we passed; an error which originates -from the city of Cabool being placed in too low a parallel of latitude -by fifteen minutes: nor was I prepared to find from these same maps -that we had surmounted “the everlasting snows” of Hindoo Koosh before -reaching Bameean, since, by every delineation, they were yet half -a degree beyond us. Such, however, was the fact, since the rivulet -of Bameean is a tributary of the Oxus, and the country there slopes -towards the north. There are certainly mountains beyond Bameean; but we -have no longer the towering tops of the Himalaya. One broad depressed -belt extends to Balkh; and it is this belt that the Arabian geographers -denominated the “Stony Girdle” of the earth. The only part of these -mountains covered with perpetual snow, is the Koh-i-Baba, that lies -between Cabool and Bameean; the range is afterwards lost in a maze of -lower hills, towards Herat. - -~Height of the Hindoo Koosh.~ - -We crossed this stupendous chain of mountains by six successive passes; -and, after a journey of about 260 miles, and thirteen days, debouched, -on the valley of the Oxus, at Khoolloom, which is forty miles eastward -of the ancient city of Balkh. The three first passes lie between -Cabool and Bameean, and two of them were so deeply covered with snow -in the end of May, that we could only travel in the morning, when it -was frozen, and would bear our horses. The three remaining passes north -of Bameean were of lesser altitude, and free from snow. We commenced -our journey at an elevation of 6600 feet[27], which is the height of -the city of Cabool from the sea. We then followed the river of Cabool, -which falls at the rate of fifty feet a mile, and reached its source at -an elevation of 8600 feet; where the snow was first encountered in the -valley. We attained our greatest height at the passes called Hajeeguk -and Kaloo, which were respectively 12,400 and 13,000 feet high, and -covered with snow. None of the other passes exceed an altitude of -9000; and from the last of them, called Kara Koottul, we descended the -bed of a river, at the rate of sixty feet a mile, till we reached the -plains of Toorkistan, where, in Balkh, we had yet an elevation of 2000 -feet above the level of the sea. As we issued from the mountains, we -left them rising from the plain in a bold and precipitous line, about -2500 feet high. Their sides, which were bare, black, and polished, -had a most imposing appearance, though they had lost much of their -sublimity and grandeur. They sank beneath the horizon long before we -reached the banks of the Oxus. I am assured that the whole of these -passes of Hindoo Koosh are free from snow before the end of June; and -in our progress across them we had not, therefore, attained the height -of perpetual congelation. I am aware of the interest which is attached -to this point, and it is something towards a conclusion, that here, -at least, it lies beyond an elevation of 13,000 feet. The peaks of -Koh-i-Baba are covered with eternal snow for a considerable distance -beneath their summits: nor can I estimate any of these (for it is only -an estimate) at a greater altitude than 18,000 feet, judging from the -height at which we viewed them. The climate of this elevated zone is -variable: the thermometer in May stood below the freezing point at -sunrise; while, at mid-day, the heat and reflection from the snow were -insufferable. It is said that, at a certain degree of elevation, and in -a low latitude, we may find the climate of more temperate countries: -nor can the fact be for a moment doubted; still, in that elevation the -rays of the sun are most powerful. At the height of 10,000 feet we -found the inhabitants ploughing the ground as the snow left the face of -the mountains; so rapid is vegetation, from the scorching heat, that -they would reap in the beginning of October that which they sowed in -the close of May. - -~General features of Hindoo Koosh.~ - -This portion of Hindoo Koosh is entirely destitute of wood, and, in -many places, of verdure; the range of Koh-i-Baba rises in peaks, but -in all other places they present the appearance of rounded and naked -mountains. In the defiles the road frequently passes at the base of -a mural precipice, rising in a perpendicular height of 2000 and 3000 -feet, and exhibits monuments of solemn grandeur, which it is difficult -to describe. About seven years since, near Sarbagh, the shock of an -earthquake precipitated a huge mass of rock into the valley, which -blocked up the river for four days, and rendered the road for a -long time impassable. The watercourses appear to have excavated for -themselves a channel in the lapse of ages; and, to judge from the -stratification of the rocks on either side, these have, at one time, -formed the banks, from the top downwards, of rivulets now depressed -some thousand feet. These walls have a resemblance to cut stone or -brick, rising in horizontal layers above one another. So tortuous -is the defile we traversed, that it forms, as it were, in every -half mile, distinct enclosures, which appear like so many fortified -positions, the view being bounded on every side. One part of the -valley, to which this remark more particularly applies, has the name of -the “Dura-i-zundan,” or the Valley of the Dungeon; and in many parts -the height was such as to exclude the sun at mid-day. I was unable to -take an altitude of the pole star from Bameean to within thirty miles -of the plains of Toorkistan. - -~Productions of Hindoo Koosh.~ - -There are no cedars or pines to adorn Hindoo Koosh, and the only -fuel of the inhabitants is a dry stunted furze, which tenaciously -clings to the soil. Its thorns are disposed like the quills of a -hedge-hog, and it is familiarly known to the people by the name of -the Koollah-i-Huzara, or the Huzara Cap. At an elevation of 7000 feet -we found the asafœtida plant flourishing in great luxuriance. It is -an annual, and grows to the height of eight or ten feet, when it -withers and decays. The milk which exudes is first white, and then -turns yellow, and hardens; in which state it is put in hair bags, and -exported. In the fresh state it has the same abominable smell; yet our -fellow-travellers greedily devoured it. If the odour of the asafœtida -be offensive, the inhabitants are amply compensated by the variety -of aromatic plants which grow in these hills, and scent the air. The -rocks are very bare, but the few plants which protrude from between -the stones are mostly fragrant. The pasture is peculiarly favourable to -sheep from its aromatic qualities. We saw these animals browsing on the -tender plants of asafœtida, which is believed to be highly nutritious. -They rear a barley in this elevated country, which has no husk, and -grows like wheat, but it is barley. The valleys in Hindoo Koosh are -more favoured by nature, and stored with the finest fruit-trees. We -sometimes passed for miles among orchards of apricots, a fruit which -grows on the most elevated regions, and attains the highest perfection. -On descending to Khooloom, we had the cherry, peach, fig, pomegranate, -mulberry, pear, quince, and apple,--all of them on the brink of the -rivulet; for the breadth of the defile never exceeded 200 yards, and -was generally narrower. On the verge of this watercourse I frequently -observed the blackberry bush, the sweet-briar, and the hawthorn. Grass -is most abundant, and I could discover the peppermint and the hemlock -among many other weeds. - -~Formation of Hindoo Koosh.~ - -I shall endeavour to convey some notions of the formation of these -vast mountains. The nature of the valleys is highly favourable to -the researches of the geologist; but I have to claim much indulgence -in treating on a subject of such interest, but (to me, at least) of -considerable difficulty. I cannot introduce it to the notice of the -reader better than in a detailed account of the defile under the pass -of Kaloo, by which we descended to Bameean. It lies between the two -great snowy passes that I have noted, and it is to be observed, runs -at an elevation of 8000 feet. The section which was here laid open -extended for about twenty miles, during which we descended 3000 feet. -The highest hills between Cabool and Hajeeguk appeared to be gneiss, -or granite; and, after we had wound over that pass, they became deeply -impregnated with iron, even to their summits. These were succeeded -by blue slate and quartz. The sides of the defile rose up in steep -slanting precipices of this micaceous schist; but the summit presented -a rugged outline of nodules. From the higher parts of these, huge -blocks of green granite and other stones, said to be shivered by the -cold and frost, had been hurled into the valley. Descending further, -we came to conglomerate limestone, in which were mixed up a variety of -other stones, not unlike gravel or shingle. About eight or ten springs -of water, of the colour of deep rust, were exuding from various parts -of this rock, and tinged its sides as they trickled down. The waters -have a purgative effect, and a metallic taste, and run, I presume, over -a deposit of iron. There is a large spring of the same kind in the -valley, leading to the pass of Hajeeguk. Then followed huge cliffs of -clay of a reddish and purple colour, which were succeeded by ridges of -indurated clay, mixed with harder stones, till we reached Bameean. It -is in this ridge that the great idols and caves are excavated, for it -is easily worked. The vicinity of Bameean is exceedingly rich in the -mineral kingdom. At Fouladut, gold is found; also lapis lazuli; and in -the hills of Istalif, north of Cabool. There are ten or twelve mines -of lead in a defile close to Bameean, which are at present worked. -There are also ores of copper, tin, and antimony; sulphate of copper -(_neeltota_, _moordarsung_), and sulphur. Asbestos (sung i poom bu, -or cotton stone,) is found at Judraun, north-east of Cabool; and iron -exists in Bajour, north of Peshawur. Travelling north of Bameean, the -same appearances continued till we descended from the first pass, where -cliffs of granite, blackened by the elements, rose up in dusky, but -majestic columns, not unlike basalt. The specimens which had fallen -down proved them to be of the formation which I have named. The two -last passes of Hindoo Koosh presented an entirely different appearance -from what has been yet described: they consisted of a light brown -limestone, I presume, of primary formation, and of great hardness, -exhibiting, when fractured, the sharpest angles. This stone is so -slippery, from the polish which it takes on, that one of the passes -of which it is composed is called the “Tooth-breaker[28],” from this -circumstance. It was in this formation that we met with those steep and -lofty precipices which overhung the valley on our descent; but before -we had reached the plains, they were succeeded by rocks of sandstone. -In one of these, near Heibuk, I observed round and separate stones of -pure flint, imbedded at regular intervals, and running in as distinct -a line as if they had been fixed by art. The flint is extracted for -military purposes. There is also an extensive deposit of sulphur -between these last passes and Hindoo Koosh. - -~Mountain of Hindoo Koosh.~ - -I have hitherto been describing the nature of the country which fell -under my own observation; but I have not spoken of the true mountain of -Hindoo Koosh, which lies about a degree eastward of this route. This -great peak is visible from Cabool, and entirely enveloped in milk-white -snow. I saw it also from Koondooz, on the north, at a distance of 150 -miles. Its altitude must be considerable, for the travellers complain -of the difficulty of breathing, and carry sugar and mulberries with -them, to ease their respiration; and the strongest of men suffer from -giddiness and vomiting. Thousands of birds are also found dead on the -snow, for it is believed that they are unable to fly from the violence -of the winds; but it is more probable that they are prevented by the -rarity of the atmosphere: yet birds are used to higher elevations than -men and quadrupeds. They often attempt to walk across; and numbers of -them are ensnared.[29] Beasts of burden suffer as much as man, and many -sink and perish. The greatest silence is preserved in crossing Hindoo -Koosh; and no one speaks loud, or fires a gun, lest the reverberation -cause a fall of snow: such, at least, is the reason assigned; nor -does it appear to be destitute of foundation. But the most singular -phenomenon of nature on Hindoo Koosh appears to be the snow-worm, which -is described to resemble the silk-worm in its mature state. This insect -is only found in the regions of perpetual congelation, and dies on -being removed from the snow. I do not suppose that the existence of the -creature will be doubted, because I have not seen it, since I speak on -the united testimony of many who have passed Hindoo Koosh. - - - - -CHAP. VIII. - -TOORKMANIA, OR THE COUNTRY OF THE TOORKMUNS. - - -~Country so called.~ - -In speaking of the Toorkmuns and their country, I shall adopt the term -of Toorkmania, since it describes that people under a generic name -which is not altogether unknown in Europe, and not likely to lead into -mistakes. Toorkmania, then, is that country lying south of the Oxus -or Toorkistan, stretching from Balkh to the shores of the Caspian, -and filling up the space between that sea and the Aral. On the south -it is bounded by hills, the continuation of Hindoo Koosh, and the -Paropamisus of the ancients. A line drawn from Balkh to Astrabad on -the Caspian,--which two places are nearly in the same parallel of -latitude,--will separate the country of the Toorkmuns from that of the -Afghans and Persians. On the south-eastern shore of the Caspian, where -Toorkmania adjoins Persia, the country is mountainous, and watered by -the rivers of Goorgan and Attruk, which fall into that sea. In all -other places it is a flat and sandy desert, scantily supplied with -water. The streams that flow from the mountains are speedily absorbed -by the sand, and never force their passage to the Oxus. The greatest -of these is the Moorghab or Merve River, and the Tejend, which passes -Shurukhs. This country is destitute of towns and villages; for the -Toorkmuns are an erratic tribe, and wander from one well to another -with their herds and flocks, taking their conical “khirgahs” or huts -along with them, in search of water and pasture. - -~Its nature.~ - -~People.~ - -The desert of the Toorkmuns is a vast ocean of sand, flat in some -places, and rising in others to mounds, such as are seen on the -sea-shore. It increases in volume towards the Caspian; and in that -vicinity the sand-hills attain a height of sixty and eighty feet. -They appeared to rise from a hard caked surface of clay, which was -observable in several places. There was little difficulty in crossing -these sand-hills; and the wells, though few and far between, offer -their supply of water at no great distance from the surface, seldom -exceeding the depth of forty feet. Such is the desert of the Toorkmuns; -and inhabited by a tribe of people who boast that they neither rest -under the shade of a tree, nor a king. They do not exaggerate, since -a garden is unknown among them; and their desert is not enlivened -by a single tree: neither do they live under a fixed or permanent -ruler. They only acknowledge the patriarchal government of their -“Aksukals” or elders; though now and then, and in limited parts, -subjected to the power of the neighbouring nations. The life of a -Toorkmun is passed in the most reckless plunder of property and human -beings; and his children are brought up from their earliest years to -the same demoralisation. A proverb among them boasts that a Toorkmun -on horseback knows neither his father nor mother; and such a saying -conveys by no means an imperfect view of their compassion, when engaged -in a foray or “chupao.” The Toorkmuns have happily no ruler to guide or -direct their united efforts, which lessens their power and the effects -of their barbarity. - -~Origin of the Toorkmuns.~ - -The Toorkmuns belong to the great family of the Toorkee or Tatar race: -they differ from the Uzbeks, in being exclusively a nomade tribe. The -name of Toorkmun is obscure. Toorkumæ, I am informed, means a wanderer; -and I have been so assured by the Toorkmuns themselves. Toorkmun, it -is also said, is “Toork-manind,” which in Persian means, like a Toork, -from the mixture of races produced by the inhabitants of Toorkmania -seizing on the neighbouring nations. Toork-mun, I am a Toork, may -likewise be assigned as a derivation. Turci and Comani, a mixed -people, seem far-fetched, though nothing which has been here recorded -may prove more satisfactory to some critics, for the mind wanders in -etymology. We however deduce from these that the Toorkmuns are Toorks, -though differing from Uzbeks, and many other tribes denominated Tartars -by Europeans. For the seat of Toorkmun migration, we should certainly -be disposed to look on the countries north-east of Bokhara, the abodes -of Jengis, of Timour, and their Uzbek successors: but the Toorkmuns -themselves believe that they came from Mangusluk, and the north-eastern -shores of the Caspian, till they gradually overran the territories -which our historians have given, in the time of the Roman world, to -the valorous Parthians. I have, indeed, heard a vague and uncertain -tradition among the Toorkmuns, which states them to be the descendants -of garrisons, transplanted from other countries by Alexander the Great. - -~Tribes.~ - -The whole Toorkmun race claim a common lineage, though divided into -different tribes, and conceding to some a greater degree of honour than -to others. The total number of families is rated at 140,000, which I -shall class into the obvious division of eastern and western Toorkmuns, -as follows:-- - - -EASTERN. - - Salore (of Shurukhs) 2,000 - Saruk (of Merve) 20,000 - Ersaree (of the Upper Oxus) 40,000 - Tuka (of the Tejend) 40,000 - Sakar (of the Oxus) 2,000 - ------- - 104,000 - - -WESTERN. - - Yamood (of Astrabad and Khiva) 20,000 - Goklan (of the Goorgan) 9,000 - Ata (of Balkhan) 1,000 - Choudur (of Mangusluk) 6,000 - ------- - 36,000 - ------- - Total of the race 140,000 - ======= - -The most illustrious of all the Toorkmuns is the tribe of Salore; and -then follows the Ata, who are said to be the Syuds of the race, and -descended from the Caliph Osman. The three great tribes, the Yumood, -Goklan, and Tuka are said to have been descended from brothers; but the -last, as sprung from a Persian slave, is considered inferior to the -other two. It would be profitless to dilate on a nameless list of the -subdivisions of these tribes: I may merely instance that of Goklan, -which is classed into nine divisions, that encamp apart from each -other. These are their names:-- - - 1 Ghaee, - 2 Karabul Khan, - 3 Baeéndur, - 4 Kevish, - 5 Kyk-soorunlee, or Arkuklee, - 6 Aye durwesh, - 7 Chakur, or Bugdulee, - 8 Yunguk, or Gurkus, - 9 Sangreek. - -It is said, that the tribe at one time consisted of twenty-four -divisions, to each of which there was a “yooz kyelee,” or commander -of 500; but internal feuds, not yet, or ever likely to be removed, -together with wars on Khiva and Persia, have thinned their number, and -disturbed the patriarchal habits of all the Toorkmun race. - -~Language.~ - -While the Toorkmuns themselves fail to trace their origin from a -country more remote than the shores of the Caspian, they yet assert -that they are the founders of the Ottoman empire. Their dialect appears -to differ from the Osmanlee Turkish; but the following specimens, taken -from the Toorkmuns themselves, may not only serve to refute or confirm -their fatherly claim on the second Rome, but assist investigations upon -other points. - - -_Specimen of the Dialect of the Toorkmuns._ - - Man Urkuts. - Woman Ailehee. - Daughter Kiz. - Son Ooglee. - Vizier Kooshbegee. - Bird Lööke. - Sea Durya. - Mountain Dugh. - Earth Yerr. - Wheat Booghdye. - Barley Arfa. - Melon Koon. - Water Soo. - Fire Ote. - Cold (adj.) Souts. - Hot Issee. - Sun Goon. - Moon Arje. - Star Yooldooz. - Sword Ghilich. - Musket Doofung. - Carpet Palus. - Father Ata. - Mother Cija. - Brother Ceneeng. - Sister Ishig. - Eye Gooz. - Nose Boorun. - Teeth Deesh. - Mouth Ughz. - Beard Sukal. - Hair Such. - Foot Eyak. - Hand Ill. - Knee Deez. - White Ak. - Black Kara. - Red Saree. - Ice Booz. - Snow Kar. - Rain Yughish. - Thunder Gok gooburdee. - Heaven Gok. - Lightning Yeldrum. - Horse Al. - Camel Doya. - Cow Sughur. - Goat Guchee. - Sheep Koyaon. - Salt Tooz. - Sand Koom. - Mud Lace. - Milk Sood. - Stone Dash. - Death Sukulat. - Marriage Toee. - I Oozoom. - You Sun. - Sleep Okhee. - Boat Gumee. - Silk Yepuk. - Good Yukhshee. - To lose Yettee. - To kill Oldee. - To swim Soo dooshelee. - To fly Yooz up kedelee. - Wool Yoon. - Cotton Puktu. - Sickness Khastu. - Near Yukeen. - Afar Oozak. - Hunger Ach. - Blood Kan. - Smell Ees. - One Bir. - Two Ikee. - Three Ooch. - Four Toort. - Five Bush. - Six Altee. - Seven Yedee. - Eight Sikkus. - Nine Daghuz. - Ten Ool. - Twenty Eegurnee. - Fifty Illee. - Hundred Yooz. - Thousand Meeng. - -~Merve.~ - -~Sketch of its history.~ - -Amid the sterile regions of Toorkmania, and between Bokhara and -Persia, lies the once fertile land of Merve, the capital of which is -said to have been built by Alexander. It is better known to European -readers from a celebrated epitaph on one of its kings, often quoted by -moral writers: “You have witnessed the grandeur of Alp Arslan exalted -even to the skies; repair to Merve, and see it buried in the dust.” -Historians are obscure regarding it. It is yet styled, “Merve Shah i -Juhan,” or, Merve, the king of the world; and the natives point to the -ruins of “Merve i mukan,” as the city built by the Greeks. They are -better informed on the deeds of Sultan Sunjur, whose tomb yet remains, -and who reigned upwards of 800 years since. Merve long continued a -dependency of the Persian empire, and here Ismaeel Sefi, the Shah of -Persia, defeated the founder of the Uzbeks, Sheibanee Khan, A.D. 1510. -Under the Persians, Merve rose to a great and opulent country, and the -waters of its river, which before had wasted themselves in the desert, -were distributed by canals and a judicious use of dams throughout the -territory. The soil was enriched; the people were prosperous. _From one -maund reap a hundred_, is a proverb which attests the fecundity of the -earth, the prosperity of the people; a portion of a Persian couplet -bids the members of the “faithful” rejoice to say their afternoon -prayers in the dry and delightful climate of Merve.[30] Here, also, the -wheat-fields furnished the astonishing phenomenon of three succeeding -crops from the same seed, as has been described in the districts of -Andkho and Meimuna. Such was the prosperous condition of Merve under a -well-known chief named Beiram Khan, who was conquered in the year 1787, -by Shah Moorad of Bokhara. That king demolished its castle and canals, -and forcibly marched the greater portion of its inhabitants to people -his capital, where they still exist as a separate community. At a later -period the remnant of its population has been driven into Persia, -and this flourishing land, which presented so beautiful a contrast -to the rest of Toorkmania, now partakes of its sterility, while the -Toorkmun hordes have usurped the place of its once fixed population. -From the ruins of the castle of Merve, the traveller may yet behold -a depopulated circle of thirty miles, studded with deserted villages -and decayed walls. The fields on the verge of the Moorghab alone are -cultivated, and here the Toorkmuns yet rear the finest of wheat, -juwaree, and excellent melons. - -~General features of the inhabitants.~ - -We shall be excused for dwelling upon the beauties of Merve, since -we are still in Toorkmania, and impart an interest to its dreary -solitudes, by describing this once beautiful oasis. From the ancient -city of Balkh to the shores of the Caspian, we have the people, as -well as the country, almost in a state of nature. The Toorkmuns have -neither science nor literature; they are even without mosques, though -not altogether without religion; they are a warlike people, and their -domestic habits fit them for the hour of battle. Their food is simple, -consisting of the milk and flesh of their herds and flocks. Mares’ milk -and “boozu” are unknown south of the Oxus, and the Toorkmuns are even -ignorant of the art of extracting or distilling spirits. A few Jews -from Meshid sometimes wander among them with intoxicating liquors, -which are happily beyond the reach of the poor. The Toorkmuns drink the -milk of the camel, which is a grateful beverage. The inhabitants of -Toorkmania are, perhaps, equal to the irregular cavalry of any nation, -and their horses possess some matchless qualities. Great care is -bestowed upon these noble animals. The subject is interesting, and we -shall close this book with a notice on the horses of Toorkistan. - - - - -CHAP. IX. - -ON THE INROADS OF THE TARTARS; WITH A NOTICE OF THE TRIBES IN -TOORKISTAN. - - -~Sketch of the Tartar invasions. Their seats.~ - -We have been treating of countries which have, in different ages of the -world, sent forth successive hordes to overrun and occupy the fairest -regions of Asia, and our curiosity now leads us to note the present -state and condition of these various tribes of human beings. Attila -and Alaric spread devastation in the empire of the Cæsars. Jengis and -Timour have succeeded them in more modern but equally destructive -inroads. Through these great revolutions we trace the ever-wandering -spirit of the Tartar people; but ere the first of these destroyers -inflicted his calamities on Rome, we could gather the evil propensities -of the race from the histories of Semiramis, Cyrus, and Alexander. -Subsequent to the age of Timour, we have another irruption from the -Uzbek Tartars, though it wasted its strength at the base of Hindoo -Koosh. From the days of Herodotus to the present time, we are presented -with a state of ceaseless change and fluctuation in the countries of -Central Asia. For this great storehouse of emigration we have been -referred to Khitai, the regions of Northern China; but authentic -history fixes it in a site far less remote. Jengis and his bands -issued from the pastoral lands beyond the Jaxartes, which is also the -migration seat of his successors; and may be, therefore, safely fixed -as the cradle of Scythian, Hun, and Tartar inroad. - -~Exaggerated numbers.~ - -~Probabilities of success in modern times.~ - -We shall not stop to speculate on the probabilities of a country so -thinly peopled sending forth hordes which have been exaggerated by -terror to thousands and hundreds of thousands. With greater reason -shall we attribute the size of these armies to their increasing number, -as they advanced to plunder and victory. A pastoral is but another -name for a migratory nation, and its transfer to a near or distant -country, generally depends upon the ambition or spirit of a few of its -leaders. This state of society is not altered in the paternal seats of -Jengis and Timour, and an invader might pursue, though with limited -success, the same paths of conquest. The volcano may rest for a time -in a quiescent state, but the Tartar, in his erratic life, will ever -sigh for new scenes; but it depends on the Khan if that passion be -gratified. The disciplined valour of Russia would now arrest him on -the west; and European prowess, engrafted on the legions of India, -might there oppose the torrent; but in Turkey, Persia, Cabool, and -China, a horde of Tartars would make the same impression as in former -times. The Tartar inroads have ever been of the most transitory nature. -Neither the empires of Jengis or Timour were consolidated, and the -subjugation of India, afterwards effected by their successors, arose -from fortuitous circumstances, over which their previous inroads had -had little influence. - -~Tartar tribes.~ - -The literary world has long dwelt with an attentive and scrutinizing -eye on the history of the Tartars, exercising, as they ever have, so -great an influence over the destinies of the world. Received opinions -now present to us a vast nation in Northern Asia, classed into three -grand divisions, under the generic name of Tartar. I shall, elsewhere, -record the few facts, which I gathered in the country regarding this -race, but the subject partakes too much of a dissertation to be here -introduced. The intermixture of the Tartars with the more western -nations has brought about many changes, and the Tartar is no longer -disfigured by those unseemly features which inspired disgust. But a -physiognomist will not deduce from the change, that the Toork of the -Oxus differs from his countrymen of Yarkund, the Moghul of modern -writers, and far to the eastward. The Toorks intermarried with the -Tajiks of Mawurool nuhr, much in the same manner as the Seljooks, who -entered Persia, formed alliances in that country; but we cannot on -that account reckon them a separate race, because of their beauty. -The features of the Tartar have not altogether disappeared from the -natives of Toorkistan; and may yet be traced in small eyes, flattened -foreheads, and a scanty beard, though we see nought of the hideous -visages which are described in the records of their inroads. The -well-known couplet[31] of Hafiz, that paints the beautiful Toorkee girl -of Shiraz, near Samarcand, has been celebrated; nor have the fair sex -ever been destitute of charms in these regions, since we learn that -Roxana, whom Alexander married in Transoxiana, was the most beautiful -woman whom the Greeks had seen in Asia, after the wife of Darius. The -inhabitant of the city, however, is more changed than the peasant; and -on the mountains of Hindoo Koosh we had among the Huzaras a much closer -resemblance to the Tartars. Among them there is a singular tribe, -known by the name of Tatar Huzaras, which amount to about a thousand -families, and occupies the space between Hindoo Koosh and Bameean. -Tradition states these people to be descendants of Jengis Khan’s army, -but their name of Tatar deserves remark, since the only other tribe so -denominated by the people themselves is the Nogai on the frontiers of -Russia. - -~Uzbek tribes.~ - -Such is the mutability of men and things in this circle of Tartar -abode, that if you now ask for the race of Zagatye or Chaghtye, the -illustrious descendants of Jengis and the conquerors of Hind, and -find them at all, they exist in the most abject poverty. The kings of -Bokhara did, however, claim a lineage and uninterrupted descent from -it, till a profligate minister snapped the thread by assassination. The -Uzbek ruler of Kokan, the second state in Transoxiana, still asserts -his descent from Baber, whose paternal kingdom of Ferghana he now -inherits. The Uzbeks distinguish themselves by thirty-two tribes, into -which they are said to have been divided in their pastoral seats. The -following list exhibits a few of the principal divisions of the Uzbek -race. - - Bokhara. Mungut. - Kokan. Yooz. - Hissar. ---- - ---- Lakay. - Baeesoon. Kongrad. - Kuwadian. Doormun. - Koondooz. Kutghun. - Khooloom. Moeetun. - Heibuk. Kunglee. - Balkh. Kipchuh. - ---- Yaboo. - Maimuna. Meeng. - Orjunje. Kongrad. - -~Kalmuks. Kirgizzes. Kuzzaks.~ - -The roaming propensities of the Tartar occur in every page of his -history, and the example of the Kalmuks, who returned, in our own -age, from the Black Sea to their original seats on the frontiers of -China, exhibits the wonderful facility with which erratic nations alter -their places of abode. The event took place in the latter end of the -last century, and is still remembered by many of the inhabitants of -Toorkistan, who described it to me. The colony advanced with their -herds and flocks; and occupied, it is said, in the _breadth_ of its -advancing column, a journey of no less than three days. It forced its -way through all opposition to the “dusht i Kipchak,” north of the -Jaxartes, and reached the primeval seat of their ancestors at Yarkund -and Eela. The Kalmuks are not Mahommedans, and the “faithful” made war -on them as they passed, and about 1500 Kalmuk slaves were added to the -population of Bokhara; but small was the impression that could be made -on the hundred thousand families, the reputed number of the migrators. -The Kalmuk and Uzbek are said to have sprung from one tribe[32], and -this change of habitation has now mingled it with the Kuzzak[33], a -great tribe that once lay to the eastward of it; and Kalmuks, Kuzzaks, -and Kirgizzes are mingled together. The Kirgiz and Kuzzak appear to be -much the same people, differing only in location. The Kirgizzes whom I -met, had a flat countenance, and closely resembled the Toorkmun. They -inhabit Pameer. The Kuzzaks pass the summer in the southern parts of -Russia, and repair in winter to the neighbourhood of Bokhara, where -they sell their sheep. - -~Citizens of Toorkistan.~ - -We find as great a variety among the citizens of Toorkistan as in the -subdivisions of the Tartars. The aborigines of the country are the -Tajiks or Tats; sometimes, but erroneously, denominated Sart, which -is a nickname given to them by the nomade tribes. The hostile Toorks -from the north subverted the power of this people, in a remote age; as -different dynasties of the same hordes have overwhelmed each other. The -Tajiks are addicted to commerce. Their language is Persian, which has -long been that of the country; for Toorkistan fell under the dominion -of Persia before the age of the Caliphs. In a Persian manuscript which -I procured at Bokhara, I even find that this language was used by order -of the Arabs themselves, in converting the people to Islam. The number -of Persians in Toorkistan is great; since we hold the inhabitants of -Merve in that light, as well as the slaves and their descendants. There -are also Jews, Hindoos, and Armenians. Of the Toorkmuns I have already -spoken; but there is yet another description of Tartars, the Nogais, -who have migrated from Russia, and settled to the number of about a -thousand families in the city of Bokhara. - -~Traces of Tartar religion. Speculations.~ - -The people of Northern Asia worshipped the sun, fire, and the elements -previous to the age of Mahommed; and we are informed, that in the -earlier times of Islam, some of the priests or Magi of Persia fled -from that country beyond the Oxus. I searched much for a trace of the -original or imported worship; the Uzbeks assured me that there were -fire worshippers in the ancient Tartar city of Cazan in Russia; but -the censer of the Greek Padre was probably mistaken for the altar of -the Magi. But the similarity between the creed of the Tartar and the -Persian was curious; and since we find such innumerable hordes issuing -from beyond the Oxus in the ages of authentic history, may we not -derive the creed of Zoroaster or Zeratusht from Scythia or Tartary? - -How full of interest is every thing connected with races of man -that have so often changed the destinies of the world. Could we but -follow up that at which we have now glanced, we might gather from the -traditions of the people much that would illustrate early history, -and the secret of these irruptions upon nations both barbarous -and civilised. How much, too, might be traced from the shades of -resemblance between the original tree and the branches which it has -shot forth to stimulate an enquiry that is eminently attractive. I -dismiss it, deploring my own incompetency. - - - - -CHAP. X. - -ON THE HORSES OF TOORKISTAN. - - -~Toorkmun horse. Its origin.~ - -The horse attains a noble perfection in Toorkistan and the countries -north of Hindoo Koosh. The climate is favourable to its constitution, -and the inhabitants exhibit the most patient solicitude in its -breeding and food; so that its best qualities are fully developed. -The Toorkman horse is a large and bony animal, more remarkable for -strength and bottom than symmetry and beauty. Its crest is nobly erect, -but the length of body detracts from its appearance in the eye of an -European; nor is its head so small or its coat so sleek as the brood -of Arabia. This want of ornament is amply compensated by its more -substantial virtues, and its utility is its beauty. We are informed -by the historians of Alexander, that the countries on the Oxus were -celebrated for their horses; and their subsequent and close connexion -with Arabia suggests to us the extreme probability of an intermixture -with the blood of that country. Tradition confirms the belief. At -Shibbergaum, near Balkh, the people will yet tell you that their horses -are descended from the famous Ruksh of Roostum, the steed of the -Persian Hercules; from which we readily gather that they are of Persian -descent. Timourlane introduced, from his conquests in China and India, -Persia and Turkey, the finest horses of those distant countries to his -capital of Samarcand and his native and adjacent city of Shuhr Subz. -In this very neighbourhood, we now find, in the hands of the Uzbek -tribe of Karabeer, the most matchless horses of the East. The great -Nadir appears to have imitated Timour; and from India to the confines -of Persia the introduction of many celebrated breeds of horses are -referred to that conqueror. The most famous of these is found in Merve, -though the animal be small. Another, met on the Oxus, known by the name -of Aghubolak, is invariably marked by a dimple on some part of the body. - -~Toorkmun mode of rearing horses.~ - -The peculiar manner in which a Toorkmun rears his horse arrests the -attention, and will, perhaps, account for its stamina and superiority; -since education, whether of the beast or the man, leaves the most -permanent impression. The diet is of the simplest kind, and entirely -free from the spices and sugar, the thirty-two and forty-two “mussalas” -(condiments) of the Indians. Grass is given at stated periods in the -forenoon, evening, and midnight; and, after feeding on it for an hour, -the horse is reined up, and never permitted to nibble and eat, as -in Europe. Dry food is preferred at all times; and if green barley -and juwaree[34] (here called jougan) are given in its stead, the -animal then receives no grain. At other times, a horse has from eight -to nine pounds of barley once a day. Clover and artificial grasses -are cultivated in Bokhara and on the banks of the Oxus, and, when -procurable, always used in a dry state. The stalk of the juwaree, which -is as thick as a walking-stick and contains much saccharine juice, is -a more favourite food. The long interval between the times of baiting -inure these horses to great privation; the supply of water allowed them -is also most scanty. Before a Toorkmun undertakes a foray, or chupao, -he trains, or, to use his own expression, “cools his horse” with as -much patience and care as the most experienced jockey of the turf, -and the animal is sweated down with a nicety which is perhaps unknown -to these characters. After long abstinence from food, the horse is -smartly exercised, and then led to water. If he drinks freely, it is -taken as a sign that his fat has not been sufficiently brought down, -and he is starved and galloped about till he gives this required and -indispensable proof. A Toorkmun waters his horse when heated, and -then scampers about with speed, to mix the water and raise it to the -temperature of the animal’s body! Under this treatment, the flesh of -their horses becomes firm, and their bottom is incredible; I have had -authentic accounts of their performing a journey of six hundred miles -in seven, and even in six days. Speed is at all times looked on as an -inferior quality to bottom. At the marriage festivals, where horseraces -form a part of the amusement, the Toorkmuns decide their matches, -which are generally a few sheep, on a course of twenty or twenty-five -miles. Youths of eight and ten years of age ride the horses; and the -spirit with which these sports are carried on by the Toorkmuns is -not surpassed in any country. The favourite horse afterwards moves -throughout the neighbourhood as if the owner had the encouragement of a -farming association in the deserts of Toorkmania. - -~Varieties of the Toorkmun horse. Extent of the trade.~ - -I have pointed out the seat of the most celebrated horses of -Toorkistan; but the animals which are sometimes sent to India under -the name of Toorkmun horses, are reared about Balkh, and the eastern -parts of Toorkmania, in the districts of Andkhoo and Maimuna, as also -on the banks of the Oxus: they are considered inferior to the horses -of Bokhara, Merve, as also Shurukhs. The price, too, is the best proof -of this assertion; since the eastern horses seldom bring a higher sum -than 100 tillas (650 rupees), and more frequently average less than -half. Among the western Toorkmuns, a horse often sells for 200 tillas, -and there are some in the stables of the King of Bokhara for which -300 tillas have been paid. These horses differ much from the animals -that are sent into India from Candahar and Cabool, which are of an -inferior and distinct breed. They, too, are reared in Toorkistan, but -only used as baggage horses or hacks. Very few of the genuine Toorkmun -horses are ever sent across Hindoo Koosh, since there are no purchasers -but the Afghan chiefs and the Court of Runjeet Sing. It is only the -best description of horse that will yield a profit to the importer. -They cannot be brought to the territories of British India for less -than 1000 or 1200 rupees; and few of the European gentlemen will give -such a price in addition to the small profit asked by the dealer. -Such, at least, is the language of the horse merchants themselves; -and it carries some conviction along with it; since the points of a -Toorkmun horse have not much recommendation in the eyes of an European, -whose taste would appear to be better suited by imports from the -Persian Gulf. In speaking of the horses imported from Toorkistan, Mr. -Elphinstone observed, in the year 1809, that if the studs in India -should succeed, the trade would be annihilated; a prediction which -has been fulfilled; as I learn that the whole remount of the Bengal -cavalry is now furnished from the stud, with some few exceptions for -the horse artillery. The undersized horses which are bred there are -also bought up by officers and natives; and there are now no princes -of sufficient consequence to induce horse merchants to speculate -longer in a losing and foreign trade. The annual tax of fifty or sixty -horses, which the ruler of Lahore imposes on the chief of Peshawur, is -furnished from Toorkmun horses, since Runjeet Sing is fastidious in his -choice. That the value of the Toorkmun horse has not been over-rated -is most certain, since some of them, which were entered into the lists -of the cavalry twenty years ago, are yet good and serviceable animals, -and highly appreciated by cavalry officers. Were it ever contemplated -to seek a further supply of these horses, they could be procured with -every facility at Meshid in Persia, from Shurukhs, and Merve, or by -means of an agent in Cabool. Afghans sent from that city could also -purchase them. - -~Characteristics of the Toorkmun horse.~ - -The breed of the Toorkmun horse is of the purest kind. When the animal -is over-heated, or has performed any great work, nature bursts a vein -for it in the neck,--which I did not at first credit till I had become -an eye-witness of the fact. The Toorkmuns cut their horses; as it is -a popular belief among them that they are then more on the alert, and -undergo greater fatigue, than stallions. The Toorkmuns believe their -horses to be exceedingly nice in hearing; and will often trust to their -steeds for the alarm of an approaching enemy. I was particularly struck -with the fine crests of the Toorkmun horses; and I heard, though I -could not authenticate its truth by observation, that they are often -confined in a stable with no other aperture than a window in the roof, -which teaches the animal to look up, and improves his carriage. The -contrivance seems fitted for such an end. The finer horses of the -Toorkmuns are seldom sold, for their owners may be truly said to have -as much regard for them as their children. It must not, however, be -imagined that all the horses of Toorkistan are equally renowned; for as -almost every person beyond the Oxus has a mount of some kind, a great -portion of them are very inferior animals. In Bokhara there are many -Kuzzak horses, a sturdy and little animal, with a shaggy coat and very -long mane and tail, much and deservedly admired. They are brought from -the deserts between Bokhara and Russia. - - - - -BOOK II. - - AN HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE COUNTRIES LYING BETWEEN INDIA AND THE - CASPIAN SEA. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -ON THE PUNJAB, AS RULED BY RUNJEET SING. - - -~Limits of the Punjab. Identity of the country as described by the -Greeks.~ - -There are few countries on the globe defined by limits both natural and -political like the Punjab. Northward, it is terminated by the Hemilaya -Mountains; westward, by the Indus or Sinde, which is also the boundary -of Hindostan to the ocean; and on the east and south it has the river -Sutlege, with four kindred streams, that water the country, and affix -to it the name of Punjab. - -The following are the accurate words of the historians of Alexander, -who traversed this territory:--“The greater part of this country is -level and champaign; which is occasioned chiefly, as some suppose, by -the rivers washing down quantities of mud during their overflowings, -insomuch that many countries have borrowed their very names from the -rivers which pass through them.” In the name of Punjab, or five rivers, -by which this country is familiarly known in our own times, how strong -is the verification! How much stronger is it, when we add, that three -of the intervening tracts between these rivers have their designation -in a compound word, that includes a syllable of the name in either -river! - -It is not necessary to dwell with minuteness on the physical -peculiarities of this country, nor to mention in detail the various -revolutions which have placed it under the dominion of one ruler. I -shall endeavour to describe the existing condition of this kingdom, and -its power as a state, together with the nature and character of its -people, and its resources and strength; taking also a view of the moral -and religious causes that have contributed to its rise, as well as the -influence it exercises on the adjacent countries. - -~Rise of the Seik power.~ - -It is well known that, about the middle of the fifteenth century, a -Hindoo priest, named Baba Nanuk, desiring to wash away the corruptions -of his faith, founded a sect named Seik, over which his successors -were prophesied to maintain a religious supremacy for ten generations. -The pride of the tenth priest, named Govind Sing, raised a desire for -temporal as well as spiritual power; and, since he could no longer -perpetuate his name by a successor, he blended the cause of war -with that of religion, and stirred up in his flock the ambition for -worldly distinction. From that period we meet the Seiks, now called -“Khalsa,” or “Sings,” as a fierce and formidable body, gradually -rising in importance, till they at last resist the more hardy nations -of the west. Yet, so late as the beginning of this century, we find -them without a ruler, though in these days existing in the form of a -settled monarchy. There is nothing very remarkable in this gradual -developement of their power; but we cannot withhold our applause from -the just predictions of an enterprising traveller (Mr. Forster), who -thus expresses himself in the year 1783:--“Should any future cause call -forth the combined efforts of the Sicques to maintain the existence of -empire and religion, we may see some ambitious chief, led on by his -genius and success, absorbing the power of his associates, display, -from the ruins of their commonwealth, the standard of monarchy.” (Vol. -I. p. 295.) This passage was penned about the time of Runjeet Sing’s -birth; and the exploits of that prince have amply verified the sagacity -of the historian. - -~State of the government of the Punjab.~ - -The dominions of Maharaja Runjeet Sing assumed a consolidated state at -an early period, from a chain of circumstances over which he himself -had little control, but by which he has not failed to profit. On the -east and south, his encroachments were opposed by the British; on the -west, he could subdue, but he could not maintain, the countries beyond -the Indus. To the north, his passage was opposed by snowy mountains; -and he has prudently contented himself by only seeking Cashmeer, and -the other rich valleys which the lower hills inclose. In a territory -thus compactly situated, he has applied himself to those improvements -which spring only from great minds; and here we find despotism without -its rigours, a despot without cruelty, and a system of government -far beyond the native institutions of the East, though far from the -civilisation of Europe. In a country which has been subdued by an -irregular force, with a due mixture of artifice and courage in the -commander, we have the conquest maintained by disciplined armies under -European leaders, and a general distribution of property among the -chiefs, sufficient to uphold the national manners, without endangering -the safety of the government. - -~Its decline.~ - -It is too evident, however, that these improvements have taken no -root in the minds of the people, and that the tone of them has its -termination even in the precincts of the Court. Nor is it less true, -that the disposition of the master mind to cherish these invaluable -institutions declines with his advancing years, and that he bids fair -to efface them with the transient glory of his reign. A well-stored -treasury, with an army in arrears and clamouring for pay, increasing -duties on the merchant and trader, exorbitant taxes on the husbandman, -with embezzlement of the public revenues, and a general corruption -in the higher officers of the state, are not symptoms favourable to -the durability of a government. Yet the endurance of the people in an -Asiatic kingdom, depends more on the power of the prince, than the -inclinations of the community; and while the ruler wastes not his -treasures in reckless extravagance, and is possessed of a mind beyond -his age, we may safely reckon on the stability of the power during his -natural life. It appears to me that Runjeet Sing, in his career, will -have raised, formed, and destroyed a government. - -~Influence of the chiefs.~ - -The influence of the Sirdars, or chiefs of the Punjab, has decreased -in proportion to the supremacy of the ruler. The power of most of -the members of the original Seik confederacy has been subverted or -neutralised; and the Maharaja has surrounded his person and filled -their places by minions of his own, whose fortune, more than their -merits, has led to their promotion. The Jemadar Khooshal Sing, and the -three Rajas and brothers of Jummoo, Dihan, Ghoolab, and Soojait Sing, -are strong instances in point. The first of these individuals once -figured as a Hindoo, and in the humble capacity of a cook to a private -soldier. He is now a Seik, and a great commander. The others, though -of less obscure origin, are descended from a Rajpoot of some small -patrimony in the Lower Hemilaya. These individuals now form a social -band in the Court of Runjeet Sing, whose favours they have bountifully -reaped. None of them possess talent; and, with one exception, they are -ignorant of the first rudiments of education. It is not to be supposed -that such men have any great influence with such a ruler; yet they -have managed to instil that belief into the minds of the people; and -make every use of their supposed influence, to fill their coffers, -and nourish the arts of corruption. The elder brother, Ghoolab Sing -(who can read), manages the salt monopoly, and a large portion of the -territory towards the Jelum. He is a cruel and tyrannical man. Dihan -Sing exercises his arts in the Court; while his brother enacts his part -abroad, but he is devoted to the interests of his master, and is said -to be a good man. He is now fortifying his native home, in the vicinity -of Bimbur, which he has strengthened by guns taken from Lahore,--a -fact which no one discloses to the Maharaja. The favourite judiciously -prepares for a future time, when the tenure of his possessions will be -weakened with the loss of his patron. The son of Dihan Sing, a boy of -nine years, is the only individual, besides a sons and two priests, -who is permitted to sit on a chair in Runjeet Sing’s Durbar. It may be -imagined, that such a long line of innovation has not been effected -without exciting the jealousy, perhaps envy, of the old Seik chieftains. - -~People.~ - -From the Sirdars, our attention is naturally directed to the Seik -people; and, if we find a hollowness and decay in the former, we have -here a healthy and vigorous body. The inhabitants are a robust and -athletic race, of sinewy limbs and tall stature. The genuine Khalsa, or -Sing, knows no occupation but war and agriculture, and he more affects -the one than the other. No race of people could have been better -constituted to firmly uphold their government; and, with ambition and -patriotism (if I can use the word) equal to their power, they are a -sufficiently numerous body to defend it. Their ascendency as a nation -continues to increase, the numerical strength of the tribe; and, -actuated in the common cause by common principles, they are certainly -a powerful people. It is not to be doubted that the head of the Seik -church, the Bedee, or Sahib Sing, might yet frustrate the designs of -any ruler, and, by a crusade in behalf of this religion, overthrow the -best laid designs of an ambitious prince. Runjeet Sing is aware of this -influence, and, with but little religion, takes care to enlist the -church in his cause, by constantly receiving two of its priests with -distinction and confidence. Yet the Seiks are a most tolerant nation, -and evince a merciful consideration in the differences of religion, -that forms a bright contrast to their Mahommedan neighbours. It is -with distrust that I attempt an enumeration of the people subject to -the Punjab; but I am informed that the Khalsa or Seik population does -not exceed 500,000 souls, and the remainder is composed of Seiks, -Mahommedans, and Hindoo Juts, who may amount to 3,000,000. - -~Military strength of the Punjab.~ - -With such materials, it may be imagined that there is little difficulty -in forming an efficient army; and that of Runjeet Sing amounts to -about 75,000 men. Of these, 25,000 consist of regular infantry, drilled -as Europeans, fully equal to the troops of the Indian army. Their -discipline might be improved by increasing the power of the native -officers, and removing a just ground of discontent, which arises from -giving different pay to individuals of the same rank, according to the -caprice of the ruler. Without commissions, these men do not possess -a respect for themselves, nor are they respected by their soldiers. -The regular cavalry and artillery may be reckoned at 5000, with 150 -guns; and the irregular troops, which are all cavalry, fall little -short of 50,000. These are denominated “Ghorchuras,”--which simply -means horsemen,--and are paid by assignments of land, in return for -their military service. A regular muster of these forces is exacted, -with a few favoured exceptions; and, as a native soldiery, they are an -efficient, well-mounted, and serviceable body. Their superiority is -said to consist in being easily rallied; while their neighbours, the -Afghans, terminate a battle with the first discomfiture. The pay of -the regular troops is superior to that of the Company’s army; they are -clothed by the state; and the Seik portion live in messes, which are -supplied by government, at a deduction of two rupees a month for each -man. For some years past the army has been irregularly paid, and their -affections have been alienated from their prince; but the Seiks make -good soldiers, and are inured to long marches and every fatigue. This -inattention on the part of Runjeet Sing to his army is traced by the -soldiers themselves, and perhaps with truth, to his growing friendship -with the British Government; but may be yet explained by the increasing -avarice of age. If some change for the better does not take place in -this branch of his economy, we shall either find the regular force of -the Punjab in a state of mutiny, or greatly diminished; nor do I hazard -the opinion unadvisedly. - -~Revenues and resources.~ - -The productions of the Punjab, together with the nature of its -population, are favourable to its separate existence as a government. -The nett revenue of the country amounts to about two and a half -crores of rupees per annum. Of this sum, thirty-one lacs are derived -from Cashmeer, exclusive of ten expended in its defence; but that -province forms a kingdom of itself, and could yield double the amount. -An individual, who lately held Cashmeer for three years, and paid -his thirty-one lacs regularly, was found to have carried upwards of -thirty lacs of rupees out of the country in goods and money, the whole -of which have been confiscated; but his successors in office, some -Cashmeer Pundits, are said to have rivalled in the following year this -extensive peculator. The plains of the Punjab, which are diagonally -intersected by so many rivers, might be successfully irrigated from -canals; as is proved by the existence of some, and the remains of -others, which are the work of the Emperors, in the eastern portion of -the country. The land is not less fruitful in the munitions of war, -than in corn and money. It abounds in horses, mules, and camels. The -Dunnee horse, found between the Jelum (Hydaspes) and Indus, is well -known, but no attention is paid to rearing it; and from the horses of -Runjeet Sing’s regular cavalry, one could not imagine that his country -produced that noble animal. The mules from the banks of the Jelum are -strong, and capable of bearing great burdens; while the camels on the -southern parts of the Punjab are equally serviceable. The cattle are -small and ill-conditioned, but numerous. The rude structure of boats on -the rivers of the Punjab does not indicate that it ever carried on an -inland trade by water to any extent; but these rivers, though all of -them be fordable (even the Indus) in the dry season, form so many lines -of routes to commerce and an army. The craft on them are not numerous, -and little wood is produced in the plain; but the rains yearly wash -down trees from the mountains to increase their number, or construct -bridges across them. We can readily discover the capabilities of the -Punjab, not only to support its own army, but that of another country; -and an enemy, whether native or European, if defeated in the plains, -might defy, in the valley of Cashmere, every attempt at subjection, -since it could subsist without foreign aid, in a natural fortress, -abounding in resource, that might be rendered impregnable. - -~Foreign policy of Runjeet Sing.~ - -The influence of Runjeet Sing’s power is felt on all sides of his -kingdom; and his policy seems to consist in exciting as much as -possible the angry feelings of one neighbour towards another. As -regards the British Government, he may be considered a most friendly -ally, for his distrust has disappeared in the strict and continued -preservation of our treaties. It is not to be doubted that he was long -unable to appreciate the disposition of his formidable neighbours, -and that his court formed a nucleus to the disaffected so late as the -fall of Bhurtpore; but his better judgment always guided him, and, in -later years, his experience has been aided by a few intelligent and -enlightened French officers, who have schooled him in a knowledge of -the European character and the British policy. The Maharaja is entitled -to every praise for the extreme prudence which has guided his actions. -Nothing is more improbable than a violation of friendship on his part; -and we may rest assured, that his acumen and intimate knowledge of -mankind will retain him as our faithful friend and ally. The advantages -which he has derived from the good understanding with the British -Government are not inconsiderable: he has been able to remove his -troops from that frontier, and reduce their number; and he now employs -them, and the name of his all-powerful neighbours, in perfecting his -other designs. - -~With the Khan of Bhawulpoor.~ - -With his neighbour on the south, the Khan of Bhawulpoor, his -demonstrations of hostility have been more evident; and the whole of -the territories of that petty state lying north of the Sutledge have -been this year (1832) seized by the Seiks. The territories south of -that river would long ere this have shared a similar fate, did not such -a step infringe the treaty with the British Government. It is but just -to remark, that the Khan held these lands as a tributary to Lahore, -and that his arrears had not been paid; yet he was secretly encouraged -by the highest officers of Runjeet Sing’s government to withhold the -amount from a French officer being sent to collect it. This chief has -now forfeited his paternal estates, as well as the farm of Dera Ghazee -Khan, across the Indus, for both of which he paid about six lacs of -rupees per annum. There is little cordiality between the Punjab and -Sindian Governments; and if the Maharaja is prevented from attacking -the Ameers of Sinde, it is more from this remote position than his want -of inclination. It is certain that Runjeet Sing entertains designs -against Shikarpoor, in which he has been encouraged by some chiefs -on the right bank of the Indus; but it is very questionable if he -will ever mature his plans. He has, however, succeeded in exciting -suspicion, and raising dissension among the chiefs of Sinde; and it is -a matter of little doubt that, if he assembled his army at Mooltan, the -country about Shikarpoor would fall a prey to the disciplined valour of -the Seiks in one campaign. - -~With the countries west of the Indus.~ - -To the westward, Runjeet Sing has prudently bounded his territories -by the Indus: his troops have frequently passed that grand barrier of -Hindoostan; the city of Peshawur has been in their hands, and the Seiks -might have marched to Cabool, but their ruler has contented himself -with the forts on either side of the great ferry at Attok. Though the -Afghan nation is without a head, that people are not without power; -and such is their bigotry and hatred to the Seiks, that it would be -impossible for them to retain the country, which they have so often -overrun, without a large armed force. Runjeet Sing derives a yearly -tribute of some horses and rice from Peshawur and the surrounding -districts, and he holds a son of the chief as a hostage at Lahore; -yet that country is far from settled, and the allegiance is most -unwillingly paid. He, however, works on the fears of the Dooranees, -by keeping up negotiations with two of their ex-kings, one of whom is -his pensioner at Lahore. The Seiks are deterred from pushing their -conquests beyond the Indus by a prediction in their Holy Book, or -“Grinth,” that foretells a bloody conflict in the neighbourhood of -Ghuzni and Cabool. The territory of Dera Ghazee Khan, which lies lower -down the Indus, forms an exception to this line of policy; but it has -been farmed to a Mahommedan chief since its conquest; and now that -it is held immediately subject to Lahore, five regiments of regular -infantry are cantoned in the country. The cupidity of the Maharaja has -been excited by the prospect of an increased revenue; and he may also -rejoice in the means of employing so large a division of his army. He -lately made a pretended offer of this farm to one of the Sinde Ameers, -much to the displeasure of the other chiefs. - -~With the hill states.~ - -There is no frontier of the Punjab that bears the yoke of the Seiks so -unwillingly as the hill states that form its northern boundary. They -were formerly ruled by a tribe of Rajpoots, converted to Mahommedanism, -who retained the Hindoo title of Raja. I have not visited that portion -of the country, but am informed that the people entertain a respect -for their former Rajas bordering on veneration. Most of these have -been displaced: those of Rajour and Bimbur (two of the principal -states) are now confined in chains at Lahore. The country of both, -even to the verge of Cashmere, has been transferred to the trio of -Rajpoot brothers, for whom it will become a safe resting-place on a -revolution of the government. The whole line of hills from the Sutledge -to the Indus has been subdued by the Seiks, and either pays tribute, -or is held directly subject to their government. The strength of -the fastnesses in such mountains is very great, and the people have -a tradition, that the fortress of Kumla, in Mundee, has never been -captured by an army: that of Kot Kangra, to the eastward, which is -surrounded by the Beas on three sides, is also described as impregnable. - -~General character of Runjeet Sing’s government.~ - -With many defects, Runjeet Sing’s government is most vigorous, and -well consolidated for a native state. The failings in it partake of -the country and its customs; but its virtues (and it certainly has -some) belong to a higher scale of civilisation. The greatest blemish -in the character of the ruler himself may be found in his universal -distrust of those around him; but he only shares this quality in common -with his countrymen. To such an extent is this feeling carried, that -none of the French officers are ever intrusted with a gun, and the -different gates of Attok, and other important fortresses, are confided -to separate individuals, who command independent of one another. -Cunning is the chief weapon in the politics of Runjeet Sing, and he -uses it at all times. Little addicted to speaking truth, and less -given to the performance than the making of promises, he yet rules -with an unprecedented moderation for an Indian prince. Few men, with -such despotic power, have ever used it so mildly; and when we remember -that he is without education, our estimate of his character must rise -with the reflection, that he never sheds the blood of his subjects, -and even spares the lives, (though not the persons,) of those who have -perpetrated the blackest deeds. Runjeet Sing has now lost much of -his personal activity; yet he manages all the concerns of his state, -from matters of the highest importance to the merest trifle, without -a minister, and without advice. With a frame enfeebled by age and -premature decay, the pleasures of the world have long since palled -upon this man; and though he still retains the full exercise of his -faculties, his ambitious views seem to have departed with the inability -to command and conquer in person. - -~Its probable termination.~ - -Since the demise of such a man is fraught with much political -importance, and his infirmities and habits hold out but faint hopes -of longevity, we turn, with increased interest, to speculate on the -probable termination of this kingdom. Nature has implanted in the -breast of man, and, perhaps, more strongly in that of a king, a desire -of transmitting his patrimony and his power to his children; but the -character of Kurruck Sing, Runjeet’s only son, who has attained his -thirtieth year, can hold out no hope to the father of his being able -to follow his footsteps, even at the remotest distance. With a cast -of features resembling his parent in a most striking degree, ends all -comparison between them. He is imbecile, illiterate, and inanimate. -With few favourites or enemies, he takes no share in the politics of -the state, and conciliates no party which may avail him in the hour -of difficulty. The blighted hopes of the father in so degenerate an -offspring, may have rendered him indifferent and regardless to the -increasing prosperity of his kingdom: but there is also a grandson, -Noor Nihal Sing, who has attained the age of ten years. Besides -Kurruck Sing, there are two adopted sons, and one of them, Shere Sing, -now about twenty-six, is unquestionably the most rising person in the -Punjab. To a commanding mien, and a disposition the most generous, he -has already added the reputation of a brave and frank soldier. He has -dissipated his treasures in riot and luxury; but he has been gaining -the good opinion of the people, in particular the soldiery, to whom he -has endeared himself by many sacrifices. His talents and acquirements -(for a Seik) are said to be respectable; and, while he has obtained -the esteem of the chiefs, he has equally secured the friendly offices -of the French gentlemen in his father’s service. He now holds the -government of Cashmere; and if he retains that important post on the -demise of the Maharaja, he may be inducted, without much difficulty, -into the extensive realm of his father. But it is to be remembered that -he is a spurious child, and, with many friends, he has some enemies, -and will have to contend with the legitimate son, and, perhaps, the -treasures of his adopted father. It is believed by the people that -Runjeet Sing might bequeath his government to any favourite, with -a hope of its continuing permanent; but I cannot, for my own part, -subscribe to the opinion. If Shere Sing does not secure a supremacy, -this kingdom will probably relapse into its former state of anarchy -and small republics; or be reduced to subjection by some neighbouring -power. - - - - -CHAP. II. - -SKETCH OF EVENTS IN AFGHANISTAN SINCE THE YEAR 1809. - - -~Introductory sketch.~ - -Before entering upon the affairs of Cabool, it becomes necessary that -I should first touch on the events which have happened in that kingdom -since the year 1809, when Mr. Elphinstone closed his history. - -During that period the monarchy has been totally dismembered; the -provinces have either declared themselves independent under different -chiefs, or been seized by the Seiks. Two of the kings of Cabool live -as exiles in a foreign land; and of the extensive empire of Ahmed Shah -Dooranee, the city of Herat alone remains in the possession of his -descendants. This speedy dissolution of a power which was so formidable -merits attention, since these political changes, in a country which -borders on British India, may ultimately influence her destinies. - -~Shah Shooja deposed.~ - -Shah Shooja ool Moolk lost his throne on the field at Neemla in the -year 1809, immediately after the British mission recrossed the Indus. -His power had been gradually declining since the fall of his Vizier, -and the murder of his comrade, the Meer Waeez. He had failed to -conciliate the chief of the great house of Barukzye Futteh Khan, who -espoused the cause of his brother Mahmood, and eventually placed him -on the throne of Cabool. Never was the fortune of war more capricious -than on this occasion. Shooja took the field with a well-appointed -army of about 15,000 men: his Vizier, Akram Khan, was slain, and he -was defeated by a force of 2000 men, headed by Futteh Khan. The troops -of the King had not formed; and the rebels, led on by an experienced -general, gained a complete victory on most disadvantageous ground. -Shooja fled, with precipitation, to the Kyber country, leaving the -greater portion of his jewels and treasure on the field, where they -became the spoil of the victors. He made an attempt to regain his crown -at Candahar, four months after his defeat; but, like all his succeeding -endeavours, it proved unsuccessful. - -~Elevation of Mahmood to the throne of Cabool.~ - -Immediately the day had been decided, Mahmood mounted the elephant -which had been caparisoned for Shooja, and the trumpets once more -proclaimed him king. So great was the confusion in the camp, that many -were ignorant of the result of the battle till this proclamation. The -nobles and commanders of Mahmood then tendered their allegiance to him, -and many of the court of Shooja did homage on the same occasion. Futteh -Khan was promoted to the high rank of Vizier to the empire, which his -services had so amply merited; and the whole of the Afghan country, -with the exception of Cashmere, submitted to the dominion of Shah -Mahmood. Mahmood submitted himself, without reserve, to the influence -of his minister, whose conduct, added to his own dissolute character, -held out no hopes of tranquillity or good government. Factions sprang -up at the court, headed by the Prince Kamran, who was jealous of the -power which the Vizier had acquired over his father. - -~Capture of Cashmere.~ - -~League with the Seiks.~ - -The first object of the Government was the reduction of Cashmere. That -province was held by Atta Mahommed Khan, a son of Shooja’s Vizier, who -had hitherto succeeded in repelling the attacks even of the late king. -Futteh Khan, in this difficulty, applied for the aid of the Seiks, -and a passage for his troops into the valley, by way of the Punjab. -In return for these favours, he promised to set aside nine lacs of -rupees of the revenue of Cashmere to the ruler of the Seiks, Runjeet -Sing. That potentate and the Vizier had an interview at Jelum, on the -banks of the Hydaspes. Futteh Khan was accompanied by the whole of his -brothers, eighteen in number, who stood during the ceremony. Some of -them strongly advised the assassination of the King of the Seiks; and -one of them is said to have tendered his services by a sign during the -meeting. It did not, however, enter into the policy of Futteh Khan. -The interview terminated by the army marching on Cashmere, reinforced -by 10,000 Seiks, commanded by Mokum-chund. The Dooranees took the -route of Beembur, and, crossing the Peer-Punjal hills, subdued the -valley without opposition, and before the Seiks arrived. This happened -in the year 1811. The Governor of Cashmere, after being blockaded in -the citadel for a few days, surrendered himself, and was treated with -distinction. The eldest brother of the Vizier, Mahommed Azeem Khan, was -now appointed Governor of Cashmere. - -~Rupture with the Seiks, and loss of Attok.~ - -When the valley had been subdued, the minister discovered no anxiety -to fulfil his engagement towards his Seik allies, who left the country -in disgust. At this time, the ruler of the Punjab received secret -overtures from the Commandant at Attok, for the cession of that -fortress. It was held by a brother of the ex-Governor of Cashmere, and -the offer was at once accepted. Runjeet Sing acquired this valuable -possession at the small sacrifice of a lac of rupees, and prepared -to defend his new acquisition. These events aroused the attention of -Futteh Khan, who quitted Cashmere with all expedition, and marched on -Attok. He found the Seik army encamped on the plains of Chuch, about -two miles from the fort: the heat of the season was oppressive, and -the Seiks had both the advantage of position and water. The Vizier had -a contempt for his opponents. The conflict commenced by the advance -of his brother Dost Mahommed Khan, who headed a body of 2000 Afghans, -and captured the whole of the Seik artillery. He had dismounted two of -their guns, and was proceeding to improve his victory, when he found -that he was without support, and that the whole of his brother’s army -had fled. On the attack of Dost Mahommed Khan, some evil disposed -persons brought a report to the Vizier, that he had been made prisoner, -with the whole of his division; and an equally treacherous intimation -was conveyed to Dost Mahommed Khan, that his brother had fallen. It -only remained for him to retreat, which he effected with honour; and -crossed the Indus, previously burning some of his camp equipage, but -leaving the greater portion to be plundered by the Seiks. Since this -disaster on the plains of Chuch, the power of the Afghans has ceased on -the eastern side of the Indus, and that country has been ever since -annexed to the dominions of Runjeet Sing. - -~Battle with the Persians.~ - -The energies of the Vizier were soon called for in an opposite -direction, as the King of Persia had demanded a tribute from Herat, -the western province of the kingdom. The Government of that city was -held by a brother of the King, named Hajee Feroz, who was requested to -treat the demand with scorn; and the Vizier marched a force in that -direction to oppose the Persians. On reaching Herat, Futteh Khan made -himself at once master of the person of the Governor, though a brother -of his sovereign, and not only extracted the whole of his wealth from -him, but violated his harem on searching for it. He then seized Herat, -and made every preparation for meeting the Persians, who advanced under -Hoosein Ali Meerza, a son of the King. A battle ensued, which was -undecisive. The Persians certainly fled, but the Afghans also left the -field, and their victory, with the greatest precipitation. The Vizier -was struck by a spent ball in the face, and fell on his horse’s neck. -On seeing this, his troops became disheartened, and fled. The Vizier, -however, reaped the full harvest of the campaign, since he refused -the tribute which Persia had demanded, and beat off the army that had -come to enforce it. He also strengthened the western frontier of the -kingdom, by seizing the Governor of Herat, who, though he professed -every allegiance to his brother Mahmood, was at best a dubious friend. -By this war, however, the garrison in Cashmere was much weakened, since -he drew levies from it, which in the end proved most injurious to the -interests of Mahmood in that part of his kingdom. - -~Seizure of the Vizier.~ - -The reign of Mahmood had thus far proceeded, with a success which the -most sanguine of his partisans could scarcely have expected: he was -restored to a throne which, to all appearance, had passed into other -hands; he held Cashmere, and could turn the revenues of that rich -valley to the protection of his other provinces; he exacted the usual -tribute from the Talpoors of Sinde, and had now warded off an attack -from Persia, the only quarter from which he had to apprehend danger. -The King himself was but a silent spectator, and owed these successes -to his Vizier, who managed the whole affairs of the kingdom, while the -monarch himself was plunged into debauchery. Futteh Khan profited by -his power, and distributed the different governments of the kingdom -among his numerous list of brothers. He evinced, however, no want of -respect and allegiance to the sovereign; and Mahmoud seemed satisfied, -as he owed his life and his power to his minister. But, if the parent -was content to govern on these terms, his son, the Prince Kamran, -discovered the strongest discontent at the Vizier’s proceedings, and -resolved to rid himself of a person so formidable, opposed as he was -to some ambitious designs which he himself entertained. The prince at -last worked upon his father, and succeeded in persuading him that he -might govern his country, now that it was consolidated, without the -assistance of his Vizier. He, therefore, determined on ridding himself -of that powerful chief, his friend and benefactor. Kamran availed -himself of an early opportunity, and seized Futteh Khan at Herat; and -gave an immediate order for his eyes being put out. After a lapse of -five or six months, Kamran put the Vizier to death, between Cabool -and Candahar, with the full consent of the king. This rash act was -perpetrated in the year 1818, and drove the whole of Futteh Khan’s -brothers into rebellion. - -~Death of the Vizier.~ - -The tragedy which terminated the life of Futteh Khan Barukzye is, -perhaps, without parallel in modern times. Blind and bound he was -led into the court of Mahmood, where he had so lately ruled with -absolute power. The king taunted him for his crimes, and desired him -to use his influence with his brothers, then in rebellion. Futteh Khan -replied without fear, and with great fortitude, that he was now but -a poor blind man, and had no concern with affairs of state. Mahmood, -irritated at his obstinacy, gave the last orders for his death; and -this unfortunate man was deliberately cut to pieces by the nobles of -the court; joint was separated from joint, limb from limb, his nose -and his ears were lopped off, nor had the vital spark fled, till the -head was separated from the mangled trunk. Futteh Khan endured these -cruel tortures without a sigh; he stretched out his different limbs -to those who thirsted for his blood, and exhibited the same careless -indifference, the same reckless contempt for his own life, which he -had so often shown for that of others. The bloody remnants of this -unfortunate man were gathered in a cloth, and sent to Ghuzni, where -they were interred. - -~Fall of Mahmood.~ - -The reign of the king may be said to have terminated with the life -of his minister. He had put him to death under pretext of misconduct -at Herat, but really in the hope of appeasing some of the nobles of -his court; in this the king and his son had most deeply erred. He -was now even afraid to encounter a small party of the rebels; and, -though in the field with his army, Mahmood precipitately fled to -Herat, without even making the attempt. This flight involved a virtual -resignation of his power, for though he retained Herat and the title -of king, he sunk into a vassal of Persia. He died at that city in -1829, and his son Kamran succeeded to his limited power. The eldest -survivor of the family of the Vizier was Mahommed Azeem Khan, who had -been left to govern Cashmere. On the rebellion of his brothers he -immediately joined them, and prepared to dethrone the murderer of his -brother. The precipitate retreat of Mahmood had rendered any further -measures unnecessary; and Azeem Khan now took the extraordinary step -of recalling Shooja ool Moolk from his exile, in the territories of -British India. He offered him the crown of Cabool, and sent a Koran to -the ex-monarch, under his seal, according to the custom of the country, -as proof of his sincerity. Shooja repaired with every despatch to -Peshawur. - -~Recall of Shooja ool Moolk.~ - -Since Shooja ool Moolk had been defeated at Neemla, he had wandered as -a fugitive in various corners of his dominions; and his adventures, -which have been detailed by himself in a small volume[35], are replete -with interest. After his discomfiture at Candahar, he was seized by -Ata Mahommed Khan, the son of his former Vizier; and subjected to much -indignity. He was for some time confined in the fortress of Attok. The -lancet was frequently held over his eyes; and his keeper once took him -into the middle of the Indus, with his arms bound, threatening him with -instant death. The object of such severity was to extract from him the -celebrated diamond, called Koh-i-noor, or _mountain of light_, which he -was known to possess. In the meanwhile Ata Mahommed Khan proceeded to -Cashmere, and carried the captive monarch in his train. On the fall of -that valley he was released by Futteh Khan, and joined his family at -Lahore. - -~High-mindedness of his queen.~ - -His queen, as I may well call the Wuffadar Begum, the most influential -lady of his harem, had used every persuasion to prevent Shooja’s -placing himself in the power of Runjeet Sing, but he disregarded her -advice, and had in the end ample reason to regret his having neglected -it. This lady was a woman of most bold and determined character; and -her counsel had often proved valuable to her husband, both in his days -of power and disaster. - -At Lahore, while at the mercy of the Seiks, and absent from her -husband, she preserved her own and his honour in a heroic manner. -Runjeet Sing pressed her urgently to surrender the Koh-i-noor, or -valuable diamond, which was in her possession; and evinced intentions -of forcing it from her. He also sought to transfer the daughters of -the unfortunate king to his own harem. The queen seized on the person -who conveyed the message, and had him soundly chastised. She also -intimated to the Maharaja, that if he continued his dishonourable -demands, she would pound the diamond in a mortar, and first administer -it to her daughters, and those under her protection, and then swallow -it herself; adding, “May the blood of all of us be on your head!” -This lady succeeded in the end in escaping from Lahore, disguised as -a Hindoo; and planned the deliverance of her husband, which shortly -followed. This was only effected at the expense of the great diamond. -A narration of the circumstances relative to its surrender would -prove interesting, but it would be out of place in this sketch. It is -sufficient to mention, that an imprisonment of the closest nature, -insult, and even hunger, fell to the lot of this unfortunate monarch. - -~Shooja’s escape from Lahore.~ - -The ungenerous part which the king of the Seiks was enacting towards -her husband aroused the energies of the queen, who had settled herself -at the British station of Lodiana. She arranged the placing of horses -on the road; and Shooja, and his people, made every exertion in -Lahore. They hired all the houses which adjoined those in which they -were lodged; and opened a passage into the street by cutting through -seven walls. A few hours after the household had retired to rest, the -king descended by the aperture, and issued into the street in the dress -of a native of the Punjab. The city wall had yet to be passed, and -the gates were shut. Shooja creeped through the common sewer of the -city, and fled, with two or three servants, towards the hill country -of Kishtwar. Here he once more raised the standard of a monarch, and -planned an attack on Cashmere, in which he was assisted by the Rajah of -Kishtwar. The expedition would have been successful, for the governor -of Cashmere had evacuated his frontier position, but an untimely season -blocked the roads with snow, interrupted the supplies, and once more -frustrated the hopes of Shah Shooja. Wandering by a cheerless and -ungenial country, the Shah at length reached the British station of -Sabathoo in the outer Himilaya, from which he repaired to Lodiana, -where his family had found an asylum. He here joined them; and has -since shared the bounty of the British Government. Few monarchs and few -men have been subjected to greater reverses of fortune than Shooja ool -Moolk; and we find our sympathies enlisted in his cause by a knowledge -of his misfortunes. - -~Elevation of Shah Eyoob.~ - -Shooja, after all his misfortunes, might have now re-ascended and -retained the throne of his ancestors; but before Azeem Khan had reached -Peshawur, he prematurely displayed his notions of royal authority by -insulting some friend of his benefactor, whom he considered to be -encroaching on his dignity, by using a palankeen. The whole Barukzye -family took offence at this inconsiderate attack; and determined to -place a more compliant master on the throne. - -A favourable opportunity presented itself in the person of Eyoob (or -Job), a brother of Shooja. He entered the camp of Azeem Khan, and -sued for the throne as the most abject of slaves. “Make me but king,” -said he, “and permit money to be coined in my name, and the whole -power and resources of the kingdom may rest with yourself; my ambition -will be satisfied with bread, and the title of king.” His conditions -were accepted; nor did this puppet monarch ever violate or attempt to -infringe the terms by which he had gained the name and trappings of -royalty. Eyoob continued as a tool in the hands of Azeem Khan, who was -nominally his Vizier. So degraded was now the state of the royal house -of Cabool, that the very robe of honour which installed the minister -into the viziership of the empire was a portion of his own property, -and had been sent privately to the Shah, who conferred it on the Vizier -with all the pomp and display of royalty. Several of the young princes -who aspired to the throne were delivered over to Eyoob, and put to -death. Shooja was immediately driven from Peshawur, and retired to -Shikarpoor in Sinde, which the Ameers of that country agreed to cede -to him. A series of intrigues, set on foot by his enemies, expelled -him even from this retreat; and he fled by the circuitous route of -the desert and Jaysulmere to Lodiana. The conduct of Shooja while at -Shikarpoor was ill calculated to support his falling fortunes. He -forgot the dignity of a monarch in low intrigues with his subjects, -in which he tarnished their honour as well as his own. The fitness of -Shooja ool Moolk for the station of sovereign seems ever to have been -doubtful. His manners and address are highly polished; but his judgment -does not rise above mediocrity. Had the case been otherwise, we should -not now see him an exile from his country and his throne, without a -hope of regaining them, after an absence of twenty years; and before he -has attained the fiftieth year of his age. - -~Capture of Cashmere by the Seiks, and their progress on conquest.~ - -The death of Futteh Khan, which had drawn his brother, with the greater -part of his troops, from Cashmere, left that rich province without -protection. The Seiks availed themselves of the critical moment; -routed the Afghans, and captured the valley, which they have ever -since retained. The civil wars which followed in Afghanistan exhausted -the power of the state; nor was it to be supposed that an active -soldier, like Runjeet Sing, would fail to improve his opportunities -of aggrandisement. The provinces of Cabool fell one by one into his -hands; Mooltan, Cashmere, Leia, and Dera Ghazee Khan, with the whole -country on the banks of the Indus and its eastern tributaries, owned -him as conqueror. In 1823, he crossed the Indus, and fought the battle -of Noushero, on the northern side of the river of Cabool, where he -was opposed by a numerous population. They appeared in the field as -“Ghazee” or champions of the Mahommedan religion. The conflict was -most obstinate, and at last decided by the personal valour of Runjeet -himself, who brought up his guards to a height from which his troops -had been three times driven. Azeem Khan and all his brothers witnessed -the action from the southern side of the river, and were unable to -cross and assist their countrymen, since it is not fordable, and they -had no boats. - -This defeat was so much at variance with the hopes of the Dooranees, -that their chief fled in the night, and left his guns and tents in the -hands of the Seiks, who advanced on Peshawar, and burned its palace. -As the battle with Futteh Khan on the plains of Chuch decided the -supremacy of the Seiks eastward of the Indus, this campaign established -their power between that river and Peshawur. That city has since paid -an annual tribute to Runjeet Sing. It is said that Azeem Khan was urged -to his precipitate retreat by apprehensions which he entertained for -his treasure that had been left at Muchnee, higher up the river than -the field of battle. It is also said that he was not satisfied of the -fidelity of his brothers; and, besides, feared the increasing army of -the Seiks. The disgrace of having submitted to infidels without firing -a shot preyed upon his mind, and he did not survive it: he sickened on -the road to Cabool, and died immediately on his arrival at that city. -On his death-bed he summoned his wives to his presence, dispossessed -them of their jewels, which he delivered with the whole of his property -to Hubeeb Oollah Khan, his eldest son. He then charged him to wipe off -the disgrace from a father’s name; and carry fire and sword into the -Seik territories. A treasury which fell little short of three millions -sterling might have furnished ample means to gratify the request of a -dying parent; but since the capture of Cashmere, the Seiks were equally -well supplied with the sinews of war. They had also been victorious -in the field; and now, aware of their own strength, had become most -formidable rivals. Even yet a confederacy of the Dooranee chiefs might -have broken their rising power; but a season of discord and anarchy -followed the death of Mahommed Azeem Khan. Since that period, Peshawur -has been reduced to a state of vassalage; and Runjeet Sing is now -confirmed in all the conquests which he had previously made. - -~Total dismemberment of the Dooranee government.~ - -Azeem Khan’s death became the signal for a scene of family strife. -After a variety of cruelty and crime, his son, Hubeeb Oollah Khan, -was deprived of his power and fortune. His uncles formed a cabal; and -possessing themselves of his person, terrified his mother with the -threat of blowing him from a gun, if the whole treasures were not -surrendered. The youth had already squandered much of his wealth, -and the remainder was now delivered up. Shere Dil Khan carried away -with him about half a million sterling, and erected an independent -chiefship at Candahar; another was formed at Peshawur; and Cabool -itself, after having had several masters, ultimately fell into the -hands of Dost Mahommed Khan, another of the Vizier’s brothers. Such -dissension has sowed the seeds of everlasting discord among this -family. The puppet king, Shah Eyoob, lost his son in these scenes -of trouble, and fled into the Punjab, where he found an asylum at -the court of Lahore, in which he still continues. The royal house -of Cabool, which may be said to have disappeared before he acted -the part of king, now no longer existed as an ostensible part of -the government; and the different chiefs ruled independent of one -another:--the Sindians threw off the yoke in the absence of any power -to enforce their tribute; Herat was held by the exiled family of -Mahmood; Balkh was annexed to the dominions of the King of Bokhara; -but the richest share of the provinces had fallen into the hands of -the Seiks. It has been said with some truth, that Cabool could never -have existed as a kingdom without the possession of Cashmere. The -revenues and resources of most of the provinces were expended in them, -while the annual subsidy of that valley and Sinde enabled the Dooranee -monarchs to extend their power, maintain their honour, and terrify the -neighbouring nations. Thus fell the Dooranee monarchy, which existed -for a period of seventy-six years, from the time Ahmed Shah was crowned -at Candahar, A. D. 1747. We shall now proceed with an account of the -different chiefships into which the kingdom has been divided. - - - - -CHAP. III. - -THE CHIEFSHIP OF PESHAWUR. - - -~Sketch of events in the history of Peshawur.~ - -The government of Peshawur has been held by a member of the Barukzye -family since Futteh Khan placed Shah Mahmood on the throne of Cabool. -Peshawur owed allegiance, and contributed to the support of the -kingdom, till the year 1818, when the Vizier was put to death. Azeem -Khan, his successor, exacted tribute from it during his lifetime, -in the name of Eyoob Shah. Since that time it has formed a separate -chiefship, like Cabool and Candahar, now subject, however, to the -payment of a yearly tribute to the Seiks. It is governed by Sirdar -Sooltan Mahommed Khan, who shares its revenues with two other brothers, -Peer, and Saeed Mahommed Khan. A large portion of the country is -alienated to different individuals, and the net revenue falls short of -nine lacs of rupees per annum. The younger brothers enjoy three lacs, -and the chief defrays from the remainder the entire expenses of the -country, the tribute to the Seiks, and likewise supports the numerous -families of two elder brothers, who fell in battle, and to whom he -succeeded. - -~Extent of the chiefship.~ - -The power of the chief is confined to the plain of Peshawur, and the -hills of Cohat, which form its southern boundary. That plain is well -known as one of the richest portions of the Cabool dominions. It is of -a circular shape, about thirty-five miles broad, highly peopled and -cultivated, watered by nature and art. Within this limited space there -are numerous villages, which pay no taxes. The Khuttuks, a tribe of -Afghans, in the east, hold the country for twenty miles west of the -Indus, for the small sum of 12,000 rupees annually, which they render -to the chief of Peshawur. The villages on the west, under the Khyber -hills, do not pay any thing; and those north of the Cabool river, with -some few exceptions, enjoy a like immunity. The only places of note in -the chiefship are, Peshawur and Hushtnuggur, which are described by Mr. -Elphinstone. Peshawur has fallen into a state of decay with its change -of rulers, and it is doubtful if it boasts of a population of one half -the hundred thousand souls which occupied it in 1809. Hushtnuggur is -the seat of one of the younger brothers; Cohat is held by the other. - -~Its military and political strength.~ - -The military strength of Peshawur is unimportant. Its contingent of -troops cannot be rated above 3,000, two thirds of whom may be cavalry. -The chief might rally round him a numerous body of irregulars, or, as -they are called, “ooloosee;” but they are badly armed, and not to be -relied on. Six pieces of artillery and 200 regular infantry complete -the power of the chief of Peshawur. With money, the services of the -Khyberees, and other hill tribes, may be purchased on an emergency; -but the chief has no treasury. In a religious war with the Seiks, an -infuriated population may be always raised, and has proved itself -formidable on a late occasion, when the Syud Ahmed preached his crusade -in this country; yet the whole of these, combined, form a diminutive -force, as compared with his neighbours on the east and west,--the -Seiks, and his brother of Cabool. The political influence of Peshawur -is as limited as its military power. The Seiks have exacted a tribute -from it since the death of the Vizier’s brother, Azeem Khan, and retain -a son of the chief as a hostage for its fulfilment. It now amounts to -sixty horses, with some rice, which is peculiar to Peshawur; and it is -annually enforced by an army which crosses the Indus, and lays waste -their territories, if not speedily paid. The amount of the tribute -depends on the caprice of Runjeet Sing, but the Seiks will not make a -conquest of this country. Without Mahommedan auxiliaries they could not -retain it. - -~Political relations of Peshawur.~ - -The chiefs of Peshawur and Cabool, who are brothers, are at enmity. The -power of Cabool is far more consolidated than that of Peshawur, but -the latter has an ally in his brother of Candahar, who would resent any -attack, either on Peshawur or his own country. The Chiefs of Peshawur -and Candahar have been some time past concerting an attack on Cabool; -but it is not improbable that the territories of both may, ere long, be -threatened, and perhaps taken, by the Khan of Cabool. In such an event, -the chief of Peshawur would call in the aid of the Seiks. This would -probably be given, since Dost Mahommed of Cabool would never consent -to the annual tribute now paid to Lahore by his brother of Peshawur. -Sirdar Sooltan Mahommed Khan entertains hopes of being able to interest -the British Government in his cause, should it decline. He seems to -believe that he might hold one portion of the country, by surrendering -a part for the protection of the remainder. No chief in the kingdom -of Cabool entertains a higher respect for the British Government than -Sooltan Mahommed Khan. This has always been shown by his attention to -Europeans who have entered his country. If misfortunes fell upon him, -he might be a useful or dangerous partisan. He might espouse the cause -of the King Shah Shooja ool Moolk, though that monarch is no favourite -with his family; yet the inconsistency and inconstancy of the Afghan -chiefs are proverbial. In any difficulty, the chief of Peshawur would -be ably assisted by Peer Mahommed, but his other brother is destitute -of energy and enterprise. The whole of the Barukzye family entertain -a dread of Shah Shooja ool Moolk, and the Prince Kamran of Herat. The -one, if aided by the British, would drive them from their usurped -authority; and the other, if assisted by the Persians, might perhaps -fix himself on the throne of his ancestors. - -~Chief and government of Peshawur.~ - -Sooltan Mahommed Khan bears a fair reputation, but his government is -most oppressive and vexatious. His agents and underlings practise -all manner of exactions; goods are taxed far above their value; and -the currency is constantly altered and depreciated. An enormous tax -is levied on the water mills, which grind the flour, and it falls -heaviest on the lower orders of the people. This chief is a man about -thirty-five; he is ambitious, and at one time held the government -of Cabool. He is well educated, and, with good talents, possesses -an engaging manner: he reads and writes, and transacts his business -in person. He has not the art of settling disputes, and his court -presents a scene of confusion, which is hardly to be described or -believed. The complainants intrude at all times and places, and state -their grievances in the most free and republican manner; yet nothing -is ever settled, and the population are heartily disaffected. Like -Afghans, the chief of Peshawur, and his relatives, live from hand to -mouth; they are liberal of what they possess, and have no wealth. I -have been informed that they could not retain their government without -this open-handed liberality. The chief of Peshawur has rallied round -him some of the most celebrated of the Dooranee nation, who share his -bounty. The sons of Akram Khan, and the Mookhtar o Doula, Shah Shooja’s -two ministers, as also of the celebrated Meer Waeez, are among the -number; the latter is an officer of the chief of Peshawur. The only son -of the Vizier Futteh Khan likewise resides with Sooltan Mahommed Khan. - -~Provisions and productions.~ - -Provisions are cheap and plentiful in Peshawur, though their price -has risen with the decrease of population. Grain of every description -abounds, but is not exported; 65lbs. of wheat may be purchased for -a rupee, which is 10lbs. less than might be had for the same sum in -1809. Ninety-six lbs. of barley sell for a rupee. A sheep may be had -for two rupees; a bullock costs twelve or fourteen; and the rupee is a -quarter less in value than the common sonat of India. Fruit of almost -every kind is to be had in Peshawur, but it does not stand a journey, -like that of Cabool, on account of the great heat. One of the large -gardens, which used to let for 7000 rupees a year, now brings but -2000. The diminution is ascribed to the decrease of population; but -fruit sells for half the price, now that there is no court to purchase -it. The sugar cane thrives here, but the people are ignorant of the -mode of crystallising its juice. That which is candied is brought from -Hindostan, though the native sugar is excellent. The Afghans are very -fond of the fresh cane, which they cut in small pieces, and use as a -sweetmeat. The most remarkable production of the plain of Peshawur is -a kind of rice called “bara,” produced on the banks of a rivulet of -that name, which comes from Teera, in the Khyber country. The grains -of this rice are so long, that fourteen of them are said to make a -span. This rice is very superior, which is attributed to the excellence -of the water. So strong is this prejudice, that most of the wells of -Peshawur are filled from it during winter, and roofed in till the hot -weather. They believe this keeps the water cold. The “bara” rice sells -so high as 8lbs. for a rupee, and is exported as a rarity to Persia, -Tartary, and all the neighbouring countries, and composes a part of -Runjeet Sing’s tribute. The rice produced in other parts of the plain -of Peshawur does not differ from common rice. - -~Feasible improvements.~ - -~Agriculture.~ - -~Sugar. Silk.~ - -It has been lately discovered in the low countries of Europe, that a -much greater population can be subsisted on a small space of ground, -by following the Flemish mode of agriculture. The soil is dug up by -the spade, and a succession of crops, chiefly of garden stuffs, is -the produce. If there be a country in the Eastern World where this -practice might be followed with advantage, it is the plain of Peshawur. -The soil is a rich mould, and its spacious plain is intersected with -water on all sides. The country, it is said, continues green during -the twelve months of the year. It yields a succession of three crops -annually; and if we reckon the barley (which is cut twice before it -ears, and given to horses,) we have no less than five returns a year. -The wheat and barley are off the ground by April. Vegetables abound, -and are produced in fields rather than gardens. Public spirit and -intelligence might render Peshawur a most productive region. We have -seen that it is favourable to the cane, and recent experiments have -proved, that the silk-worm may be reared with advantage. Mulberry trees -abound, and the insect is liable to no particular disease. Those which -I saw were brought from Cabool and Balkh. The eggs are hatched at the -vernal equinox, a few days before the mulberry is in leaf. Till then -the insects are fed on a kind of weed, with a yellow flower, called -“khoobikulan” by the Persians, and common to England. Their education -does not differ from that of Europe. The silk is boiled before it is -wound. The worms are brought forth by artificial heat, and generally by -being tied under the armpits. Exposure to the sun kills the insects, -and it likewise deprives the chrysalis of life when in the cocoon. By -the end of May the worms have finished their career, and lie dormant in -the egg till next spring. They are placed in cellars under ground, to -protect them from heat, and they are as carefully guarded against damp. -I do not doubt but successions of these worms might be brought forth -during the warm months. - -~District of Cohat.~ - -~Minerals and coal.~ - -The district of Cohat, under Peshawur, deserves a minute description, -from the richness and variety of its productions, though it yields but -two lacs of rupees to the chief. The salt range lies within this tract, -and the mineral abounds. It is sold for one eighth of the price east -of the Indus. Gold, copper, iron, and antimony have been extracted -from ores found in these hills; and there are two kinds of sulphur. -There are also wells of naphtha, or petroleum, for the matter which -they eject is used in the neighbouring villages for oil. But the most -valuable production of Cohat is its coal, which we discovered during -our visit, and explained its utility, much to the astonishment of the -people. It occurs on the surface of one of the hills, and in great -abundance. The specimens which were procured for my satisfaction were -of a greyish hue, intermixed with much sulphur. It burns well, but -leaves much refuse. It has more the appearance of slate than coal; -but, as the specimens were from the surface, they are not to be taken -as a fair criterion of the mine. The coal is bituminous, and ignites -at the candle. The villagers now use it as fuel. The discovery of a -coal-mine at the head of the Indus may prove of the utmost importance -in these times, since the navigation of that river is open to Attok; -and the mineral is found about forty miles distant from that place, -with a level road intervening, and near a large city, where labour is -cheap. It is a singular circumstance, that deposits of coal should have -been discovered, both at the mouth and head of the Indus (in Cutch and -Cohat), within these few years, and since steam has been used in India. -It is seldom that discoveries are so opportune, and I trust that they -augur favourably for the opening of a new route to commerce by the -Indus. - - - - -CHAP. IV. - -THE CHIEFSHIP OF CABOOL. - - -~Chiefship. Power and extent.~ - -The capital of Cabool now forms the residence of an independent chief, -who holds the surrounding districts and Ghuzni, without any control -over the kingdom of the Dooranees. The same circumstances which -separated Peshawur, have dismembered Cabool; and since the death of -Azeem Khan, the possession of it has been disputed by different members -of the Barukzye family. In the year 1826, it fell into the hands of -Dost Mahommed Khan, the present chief, and a brother of the Vizier, -Futteh Khan. Since then he has greatly extended and consolidated his -power. He intrusts the town and dependencies of Ghuzni to a brother, -and admits no one else to share his fortunes. The limits of the -chiefship extend north to Hindoo Koosh and Bameean. On the west it is -bounded by the hill country of the Huzaras. To the south is Ghuzni, -and to the east it stretches half way to Peshawur, terminating at the -garden of Neemla. Much of the country is mountainous; but it contains a -large portion of arable land, which is most productive. It lies along -the base of hills, and derives a richness from the soil washed from -them. The revenues of Cabool amount to eighteen lacs of rupees. Its -military force is greater than any among the Afghans, since the chief -retains a body of 9000 horse, who are well mounted and accoutred. He -has also 2000 infantry, with other auxiliaries, village troops, and a -park of fourteen guns, which are well served for a native state. This -country is by nature strong and mountainous, though it has good roads -through it. - -~Character of the chief.~ - -The reputation of Dost Mahommed Khan is made known to a traveller -long before he enters his country, and no one better merits the high -character which he has obtained. He is unremitting in his attention -to business, and attends daily at the Court-house, with the Cazee and -Moollahs, to decide every cause according to the law. The Koran and its -commentaries may not be the standard of legislative excellence, but -this sort of decision is exceedingly popular with the people, since it -fixes a line, and relieves them from the “jus vagum aut incognitum” of -a despot. Trade has received the greatest encouragement from him, and -he has derived his own reward, since the receipts of the Custom-house -of the city have increased fifty thousand rupees, and now furnish -him with a net revenue of two lacs of rupees per annum. One in forty, -_i.e._ 2-1/2 per cent., is the only duty levied in his territory; and -the merchant may travel without guard or protection from one frontier -to another, an unheard of circumstance in the time of the kings. The -chief of Cabool, in his zeal for orthodox government, has deprived -his subjects of the luxury of wine and spirits, as being prohibited -by his creed. The enactment has driven the Jews and Armenians from -his country, since they had no other means to procure a subsistence. -A good Mahommedan ought not to regret the loss of such luxuries; but -with this single exception, I heard of no complaint against the rule -of Dost Mahommed Khan. That chief, in common with many of the Afghan -nation, was addicted in early life to wine and its concomitant vices. -His prohibition of them may be, therefore, capricious; but he, as well -as his court, hold out a bright example of sobriety to the community. -The justice of this chief affords a constant theme of praise to all -classes: the peasant rejoices at the absence of tyranny; the citizen at -the safety of his home and the strict municipal regulations regarding -weights and measures; the merchant at the equity of the decisions -and the protection of his property, and the soldiers at the regular -manner in which their arrears are discharged. A man in power can have -no higher praise. Dost Mahommed Khan has not attained his fortieth -year; his mother was a Persian, and he has been trained up with people -of that nation, which has sharpened his understanding, and given him -advantages over all his brothers. One is struck with the intelligence, -knowledge, and curiosity which he displays, as well as his accomplished -manners and address. He is doubtless the most powerful chief in -Afghanistan, and may yet raise himself by his abilities to a much -greater rank in his native country. - -~Political relations of the chiefship.~ - -The differences which subsist between Dost Mahommed Khan and his -brothers lessen the influence of all parties, and would lay open the -state to intrigue and faction, if invaded. The family of Barukzye have -nothing to fear from any other Afghan tribe, since they surpass all in -numbers as much as in power. The chiefs of Peshawur and Candahar do -not want the wish to injure their brother of Cabool, but they cannot -accomplish their purpose. Both of them have had a footing in Cabool, -and look with envy on the prosperity of Dost Mahommed Khan. Both have -emissaries at his court, who excite disturbance; and both cherish -hopes of rooting out one whom they consider a usurper. The task will -be found difficult; for the chief of Cabool, besides the moderation -and justice which secure him so many friends, enjoys an advantage in -his Persian descent, which will prove of material service to him in -adversity. He holds the warlike clan of Juwansheer in his interests, -and takes every occasion to conciliate this tribe, which has so often -turned the scale in favour of different pretenders to the throne. He -has acquired their language (the Turkish), and promoted their interests -and well-being. The Persians of Cabool amount to about 12,000 families; -they reside in a separate quarter of the city, which keeps up an -_esprit de corps_ among them. It also gives them a knowledge of their -power, which may prove salutary or prejudicial to the factions that -divide the country, according to circumstances. The state of fear which -an enemy on both sides must inspire has a bad effect on Dost Mahommed -Khan’s administration. With his own house as an object of care, he is -not likely to pursue conquests abroad, or retrieve the fallen state of -Cabool. This alone deters him from attacking Herat, and making some -endeavours to wrest Mooltan and Dera Ghazee Khan from the Seiks. He -last year made a demonstration against Julalabad, a district between -Cabool and Peshawur, worth about seven lacs of rupees a year. He will -probably annex it to his power; but, until able to coerce or subdue -either Peshawur or Candahar, Dost Mahommed Khan cannot rise above the -rank of a chief, or be aught than one among many in Afghanistan. In the -present state of politics in the country, he is, nevertheless, the most -rising man in the Cabool dominions. - -~Supplies of Cabool.~ - -Cabool is a country of great strength, but small resource. It -abounds in fruit, but grain grows scantily. The Emperor Baber, on -his conquering it, imposed a tax of 30,000 khurwars[36] of grain on -Cabool and Ghuzni, but found in after-years, when better acquainted -with the country, that the levy was exorbitant. The territory has -no doubt improved in a lapse of three hundred years; but provisions -are dear in Cabool. In summer, the necessaries of life are rather -moderate; fruit and vegetables abound, and the city receives supplies -from the surrounding country. In winter, the roads are shut, wood is -scarce, grain is dear, and the severity of the climate demands warm -clothing. The mills which grind the flour are also frozen up, and the -poorest people must purchase animal food. The presence of a force in -Cabool has the effect of doubling the price of provisions, which is -a sure indication of their scarcity. A large army might still find -a comfortable quarter in the city of Cabool, and draw the supplies -which it required, additional to the resources of the country, from -Peshawur and the valley of the Cabool river, near Julalabad. Forage -for cattle is most plentiful; artificial grasses are cultivated to a -great extent, and prove a most nutritious food to horses. There are -likewise most extensive meadows both at Cabool and Ghuzni. One, called -Nawur, in particular, near the latter place, would supply a force of -20,000 cavalry. The city of Cabool has been described elsewhere. It has -a population of about 60,000 souls, and a bazar of nearly 2000 shops. -Each trade has a separate division of the town. Cabool furnishes a -supply of articles far beyond what its size would indicate, for it is a -mart, and the entrepôt of a great trade. - -~Strength.~ - -It increases daily under the fostering care of its present ruler. As a -place of defence, it is contemptible; the city-wall, which has never -been good, has fallen down; the summits of the hills that environ the -town are crowned with walls, but they are a useless ornament. The Bala -Hissar, or citadel, which stands on the eastern side, is a place of no -strength, and the other Bala Hissar below it is even more defenceless. -The former building, which stands on an eminence, commands a noble view -of the surrounding country, and might be made to command the city, -which lies at its base. - - - - -CHAP. V. - -ON THE AFFAIRS OF WESTERN AFGHANISTAN. - - -~Western Afghanistan.~ - -The western portion of Afghanistan is held by the chiefs of Candahar -and Herat; who rule as at Cabool and Peshawur. They complete the number -of governments into which the monarchy has been dismembered; and, after -our more minute accounts of the two other chiefships, do not require -much notice. Candahar is in the possession of a branch of the Barukzye -family, and Herat is ruled by Kamran, the son of King Mahmood of Cabool. - -~Chiefships of Candahar.~ - -It has been already mentioned that Shere Dil Khan fled from Cabool -to Candahar; and formed the present chiefship, with the spoil of his -nephew. He was a man of singular habits, in some respects resembling -his brother, Futteh Khan; but morose as well as cruel. They give an -anecdote of his lopping off the finger of one of his boys, telling -him at the same time, if he cried, that he could not be his child, or -a Barukzye. The young fellow bore it with great patience. Shere Dil -Khan, in his flight to Candahar, was accompanied by four brothers. He -himself is since dead, as also one of his brothers. Candahar is now -governed by Cohun Dil Khan, supported by his two surviving brothers, -Ruhum Dil and Meer Dil. The revenues amount to about eight lacs of -rupees; his force consists of 9000 horse, and six pieces of artillery; -but, as the city is situated in the heart of the Dooranee country, -and near the native seat of the Barukzye family, he could, perhaps, -increase his cavalry on an emergency. The government is not popular, -nor would it appear, from the acts of oppression, that it deserved to -be so. The chief is on bad terms with most of his neighbours. In common -with all his family, he is inimical to Kamran of Herat, and has at -different times attempted to seize that city. He is also at issue with -the chief of Cabool. The connexion between the Peshawur and Candahar -branches of the Barukzyes, is very close and sincere; but their united -efforts will not, in all probability, injure their brother of Cabool. -The Candahar chief also seeks to form a settlement on the Indus; and -has for several years past sent his troops to threaten Shikarpoor in -Sinde. The Ameers of that country have been hitherto able to resist -his attacks; but, as there is an open and easy communication between -Candahar and the Indus, by the pass of Bolan, the chief is not likely -to discontinue his endeavours in that quarter. In a disorganised state -of Sinde, he might easily possess himself of Shikarpoor; and such a -state of events seems by no means improbable in the country of the -Ameers. The chief of Candahar would gladly interest the ruler of the -Punjab in his cause; but it is not probable that he will procure his -assistance, as he himself looks upon Shikarpoor with an eye of cupidity. - -~Government of Herat.~ - -Herat is the only province of the kingdom of Cabool, now held by a -descendant of the royal family; and the Prince Kamran rules more from -tolerance in his enemies than his own power. He receives no aid from -his countrymen, since the whole of the chiefs in Afghanistan are his -enemies, and desire his destruction, in revenge for the assassination -of their brother Futteh Khan. Herat has, therefore, become a dependency -of Persia. The town itself has of late years been several times entered -by the troops of that nation; and only spared by the ready tender of -money on the part of its governor. It was threatened in September 1832, -by the Prince Royal in person, who made a pecuniary demand; and also -required that the coinage of the city should be struck in the name -of the King of Persia. It is probable that both these requests will -be granted, since Kamran would gladly hold his power on any terms. -The Persians do not appear to contemplate any permanent settlement in -Herat, since it would incur the expense of retaining a force, that -would diminish the tribute now gained from it. Kamran is said to be -in possession of some of the crown jewels of Cabool, and derives a -large revenue from Herat, which is situated in one of the most fertile -countries of the world. By this wealth he is yet able to retain about -his person some of the Afghan chiefs, and can raise a body of 4000 -or 5000 horse. He has no political connexions in any quarter; but -still clings to the hope of being able to re-establish the monarchy -of his father. He has the character of a cruel and tyrannical man, is -destitute of friends, and odious to his countrymen. - - - - -CHAP. VI. - -SUMMARY OF THE AFFAIRS OF CABOOL. - - -~Remarks on the overthrow of the royal dynasty.~ - -We have now given a sketch of the events which have occurred in Cabool, -to the fall of the monarchy; and described the several governments -into which it has been divided. Its prosperity as a kingdom seems -almost to have terminated with its founder, Ahmed Shah Dooranee. His -son Timour evinced none of the energy and activity of his parent. Shah -Zuman, his child and successor, defective in education, and cruel in -disposition, succeeded to a government relaxed by a long reign of -indolence. Shah Zuman, and his brothers, Mahmood and Shooja, seem alike -to have forgotten, on their elevation to a throne, that they ruled a -people whose genius was republican. The total overthrow of the dynasty -is universally attributed to the misplaced pride and arrogance of the -last kings, who now receive no sympathy from the Afghans in their -overthrow. Shooja, indeed, might have regained his power, but for his -rash attempts to exercise the authority of king, before he was firmly -fixed in it. The Afghans cannot control their feelings of jealousy -towards men in power; and this universal envy has dethroned their kings -and butchered their nobles. There is not a person of note, that figures -in their history for the last thirty years, who has died a natural -death. To be happy under any government, they must either be ruled by a -vigorous despot, or formed into many small republics. - -~Improbabilities of restoring it.~ - -All the institutions of the Afghans are favourable to a republic; and -the supremacy of the Barukzye family in Cabool is acceptable to the -people; and I even think favourable to the prosperity of the country. -It is by far the greatest clan of the Dooranees, amounting to about -60,000 families, which will enable it to maintain its authority. The -late royal family of the Sudozyes, on the other hand, were few in -number, and looked for support to other tribes. Of these, the principal -were the Barukzyes. Hajee Jumal, the most influential of its chiefs, -willingly bowed to the authority of Ahmed Shah; and contributed to fix -him on his throne. The successors of that monarch rewarded his services -by the murder of his son Poynda Khan; and we have related the atrocious -assassination of his grandson the Vizier. Had the royal house treated -these benefactors with justice, and their subjects with moderation, -they might still have reigned in peace. The hatred of this family to -the house of Cabool, and the cause which excites it (the assassination -of two of their chiefs), forbid the belief that the Barukzyes will -ever consent to their restoration. It is certain that the aid of no -other tribe can avail them, for the whole wealth of the country is -in the hands of their enemies; and the bulk of the people view their -misfortunes with indifference, since it is believed they have drawn -them upon themselves. It is evident, therefore, that the restoration of -either Shooja ool Moolk, or Kamran, is an event of the most improbable -nature. The dynasty of the Sudozyes has passed away, unless it be -propped up by foreign aid; and it would be impossible to reclaim the -lost provinces of the empire, without a continuation of the same -assistance. It is more difficult to revive than to raise a dynasty; and -in the common chain of events, if the country is to be ruled by another -king, we must look for another family to establish its power in Cabool; -and this, in all probability, will be the Barukzyes. - -~Relative power of Cabool and Persia.~ - -At present, there is no connexion of a political nature between the -states in Cabool and any foreign power. The Persians have long talked -vaingloriously of invading the country, but if there were no treachery -on the part of the Kuzzilbash guards, at Cabool, they could not -certainly make an impression on the kingdom. In a general war, the -enmity between the different houses would probably be forgotten, and -the united force of the Barukzyes alone amounts to about 30,000 horse. -While we were in Cabool, the chief received a notice from his brother -at Candahar, who had been threatened by an ambassador from the Persian -camp. The reply of Dost Mahommed Khan was characteristic:--“When the -Persians come, let me know, and as I am now your enemy, will I then -be your friend.” The natural strength of Cabool is its best barrier -against a successful invasion by an Asiatic power, and if we look -to the expedition of Nadir Shah, we are to remember that he was -accompanied by many Afghan chiefs, whom he had advanced to favour, and -who largely participated in his acquisitions, and the spoils he gained -from others. - -The political state of Cabool, as a kingdom, becomes at all times an -object of the deepest importance to India, from the many changes which -constantly take place in that country. Of its four chiefships, one -is subject to the Punjab, and another to Persia. The chief of Cabool -himself is a man of enlightened views, and may secure a thorough -supremacy over the country, on the death of Runjeet Sing. It would -not be difficult for him to subdue Peshawur, and he might then seize -the provinces on the Indus, and very probably Cashmere. He is a man -favourably disposed towards the British Government, as indeed are the -whole chiefs of the kingdom. They were not in power when the British -mission entered the country in 1809, but our reputation was then -established, and the good opinion of all parties has been acquired by -our immediate withdrawal afterwards. That circumstance, it is true, -was unavoidable; but it has left impressions most favourable to our -disinterestedness. In Cabool, therefore, it would not be difficult to -form a connexion; and the chief is certainly worthy of notice, since -his country lies on the great road by which the manufactures of Britain -are imported, and which of late have been considerably increased by -his equity and justice. It would require no great expenditure of the -public funds to conciliate this chief; and, it is to be remembered, -that he is in possession of the most important position in Asia, as -regards the protection of British India. Had circumstances brought -us into an alliance with Cabool instead of Persia, we might have now -possessed more trusty and useful allies, nearer home, than we can boast -of in that country. We also should have never incurred a tenth of the -expenditure, which has been so freely lavished in Persia. - - - - -CHAP. VII. - -ON THE POWER OF KOONDOOZ. - - -~Chiefship of Koondooz.~ - -~Its extent.~ - -The territories of Koondooz lie between Cabool and Bokhara. I shall -comprehend under that designation all which I have to say on the -countries, north of Hindoo Koosh, and south of the Oxus, as far -westward as the city of Balkh. These limits bound a chiefship, which is -ruled by an Uzbek family that has lately extended its power, and is now -possessed of great influence in these countries. This is the tribe of -Kutghun; the name of the chief is Mahommed Moorad Beg, and Meer is the -title by which he is known to his subjects. At no late period the tribe -was confined to the canton of Koondooz, but this chief has established -a power over all the neighbouring states; he holds Khooloom, Heibuk, -Ghoree, Inderab, Talighan, and Huzrut-Imam, and is master of the valley -of the Upper Oxus, and its tributary rivers. The city of Balkh has -likewise been in his hands; he contented himself with sacking it, and -marching off a great part of the population to his other conquests. -He has also reduced the whole kingdom of Budukhshan, and is at present -engaged in operations against the hill states north of the Oxus. The -district of Koolab, which is one of these, and lies between Durwaz and -Shughnan, is already in his possession. His power extends south to -Syghan, within thirty miles of Bameean, and across two of the passes of -Hindoo Koosh. - -~Rise of Moorad Beg.~ - -The population of the territory consists chiefly of Tajiks, the -aborigines of the country, who form the entire body of the people in -Budukhshan. The Uzbeks bear a very small proportion to them. - -The chief of Koondooz attained his present ascendancy on the death of -Khilich Ali Beg, a well-known Uzbek chief, who long ruled in Balkh, as -a nominal tributary to the crown of Cabool. Moorad Beg, of Koondooz, -held a secondary command under this chief. - -At his death, which occurred more than eight years since, Moorad Beg -entered into intrigues with the different members of his family; and -finally succeeded in establishing his own authority. The sons of -Khilich Ali Beg now govern Khooloom and Heibuk as his vassals. The -Kutghuns have always possessed influence among the Uzbeks, but Moorad -Beg is the first of his family, or of his countrymen, who has formed -so extensive a principality. The tribe is of Moghul extraction, as it -is termed, since they and the Kalmuks descend from one stock. They -entered on their present seats in the 16th century, with the great -Uzbek nation, that expelled the descendants of Timour from their -paternal kingdom. Koondooz appears to have been the utmost limit of -invasion, since the Uzbeks have not settled in Budukhshan, or south -of Hindoo Koosh. The government of the present chief may be viewed as -tolerably well consolidated: his measures are vigorous. - -~Policy and power of the chief.~ - -The Meer of Koondooz owes much of his power to the policy which he has -pursued towards those whom he has subjected. He retains the former -chiefs in authority, but stipulates for a contingent of troops, and the -maintenance of a portion of his own in the country, at their expense. -He thus increases his strength, and provides for the protection of -his newly acquired conquests, without danger of revolt. His united -forces amounted to about 20,000 horse, and six pieces of artillery, -one of which is a thirty-six pounder. He has no infantry, for the -Uzbeks despise that branch of an army, and know as little of the use -of cannon, though the possession of guns seems to secure a victory. I -must, however, mention, to the credit of the chief, that he has dragged -the great gun to Sarbagh, fifty miles into Hindoo Koosh. This piece -of ordnance was brought from Persia by Nadir Shah, who took the route -of Meshid, Shurukhs, and Meimuna, to Balkh,--a practical proof of the -goodness of the road, and the calibre by which it may be traversed. -The cavalry carry spears of an unwieldy size; some have matchlocks, -but a great part are ill armed and accoutred, though much superior -to those who oppose them. He supports these troops by an allowance -of grain, and retains all the commanders, and a portion of the men, -in constant attendance upon his person. Moorad Beg leads a life of -great activity, and takes the field in person; he constantly sends -his horse on excursions of plunder and capture, (as they are called, -“Chupawul,”) north of the Oxus, in the neighbourhood of Balkh, and the -country of the Huzaras. As the people there are Shiah Mahommedans, -they are seized without mercy, and distributed or sold into slavery. A -supply of these unfortunate wretches is also derived from Chitral, a -hill state, east of Budukhshan, the chief of which pays his tribute in -human beings. He excepts the caravans which pass through his territory -from these attacks, and also guards against exactions from the chiefs -whom he has rendered tributary. He holds little or no communication -with neighbouring powers. With the Chinese authorities in Yarkund, -to which there is a considerable trade, there has been an exchange of -presents, and the Koondooz chief once sent an ambassador regarding the -protection of the roads, which were infested by robbers from beyond the -Oxus. With the king at Bokhara there is no cordiality, for they are -mutually afraid of each other. Moorad Beg makes constant irruptions -into the provinces of Balkh, and the Governor of that city seeks his -safety in flight. The Afghans are separated from Koondooz by a great -chain of mountains, and the country to the eastward of Budukhshan is -equally rugged, and cut off by the lofty mountains of Beloot. The chief -of Koondooz has nevertheless crossed this range, and attacked Chitral. -He has also at times made inroads into the country of the Siahpoosh -Kaffirs, who dwell on Hindoo Koosh; but his last campaign, in this -quarter, about four years since, was not of an encouraging nature. The -Kaffirs allowed the troops to advance into the mountains, and then -attacked them. A snow storm ensued, and out of 4000 horse, one half -were unable to extricate themselves, and fell a sacrifice to their -temerity. - -~Revenues of Koondooz.~ - -The revenue of this principality is paid in grain. There is abundance -of it and the necessaries of life; but money is exceedingly -scarce. Nothing proves this so satisfactorily as the coinage now in -circulation, which is of an Emperor of Delhi, prior to the age of -Nadir. Many foreign luxuries are derived from Bokhara, by sending -slaves and cattle to its market. Under such circumstances, it is -difficult to form any correct estimate of the revenues of Koondooz. -Moorad Beg is considered wealthy for an Uzbek. He demands one third -of the productions of the soil from his subjects. Koondooz itself is -rich in rice; and much silk is produced on the banks of the Oxus. -Budukhshan, at one time so fruitful and fertile a country, is almost -depopulated; and has severely felt the power of Koondooz. The ruler -of it, one of those who claim descent from Alexander the Great, has -been deposed; and a great part of the population driven from their -own beautiful valley to the fens of Koondooz. Budukhshan, therefore, -furnishes no revenue, and is occupied by Uzbek horse, who contribute -to its further desolation. Of its ruby mines I have spoken in another -place. The whole of the affairs of Mahommed Moorad Beg are managed by a -Hindoo named Atmaram, a native of Peshawur, who has the title of Dewan -Begee. He is a person of some talent, and has unlimited influence. -He has risen from the meanest origin. Among the Uzbeks, Hindoos are -despised, and never permitted to wear turbans; but this minister has -not only secured the privilege for himself, but for all his servants -and tribe who live with him. He has about 400 slaves in his household, -the gift of an indulgent master, and has also enriched himself to a -great extent; but his merits entitle him to the reward. The Uzbeks are -incapable of conducting matters of state; for, except the priests, -they are without education. Moorad Beg has therefore evinced the most -unerring proof of his own superiority in the selection of such a man -to conduct his government. It is to him that the merchant owes the -protection of his property; and that the chief himself reigns without a -rival in the countries which he has subdued. - -~Character of Moorad Beg.~ - -Since much depends on the personal qualities of a chief who rules a -country composed of such materials, we must regard his character with -the greater interest. That of Moorad Beg has many prominent features, -nor is it free from contradiction. He is at once cruel and indulgent: -he encourages every plundering expedition which leaves his country, -and shares the spoil with the barbarians who secure it. Possessed of -power to retain the entire possessions over which he holds a supremacy, -he concedes both property and power, certainly of a limited nature, -to the individuals who, in most Asiatic governments, meet with death. -Except his forced removal of the inhabitants of one province to people -another, and that too a most unhealthy one; and his seizure of the -unfortunate Huzaras and Kaffirs, and their sale as slaves, I have -not heard him accused of any of the flagrant acts of wanton tyranny -and oppression, so common in despotic governments. The trader passes -through the dominions of Koondooz without molestation. The duties are -low; and some articles, such as shawls, are encouraged by an entire -remission. The people were also relieved from the payment of the tax on -silk at the time we were in Koondooz. The greatest apprehension under -which this chief labours, is a terror of the British name, as was shown -in the harsh treatment of Mr. Moorcroft and our party. He suspects the -conquerors of India, and it will require much to remove his suspicion. -Moorad Beg is about fifty years of age; his stature is tall, and his -features are those of a genuine Uzbek: his eyes are small to deformity; -his forehead broad and frowning; and the whole cast of his countenance -most repulsive. He is not addicted to any excess, and is moderate in -his pleasures. A holy person at Talighan, about thirty-five miles -from his capital, exercises great power over him. In early life he -was indebted to this man for good offices and advice; and there is no -favour that he might sue for which would now be refused. He has lately -given one of his daughters in marriage to his son. Moorad Beg has two -sons, one of them a promising lad of eighteen. - - - - -CHAP. VIII. - -SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF BOKHARA. - - -~Early history of Bokhara.~ - -I procured five manuscripts on the history of Bokhara during my -residence in that country. It would be foreign to my design to give -the voluminous contents of these works; nor do I feel impressed with a -belief that the interest of their contents would reward the notice of -a general reader: I have handed them over to that flourishing society -the Oriental Translation Fund, from whom I have an assurance that it -will use every means to make them known to Oriental scholars. Bokhara, -in early ages, is described under the name of Bykune, a city still to -be traced in its vicinity, and connected by fable or truth with the -well-known name of Afrasiab. The country is there stated to have been -a marsh overgrown with reeds, and fed by the ice and snow which melted -in the hills of Samarcand. It is said to have been a hunting thicket, -and so marshy in many places, that a camel could not pass it. Such is -the language of the native historians. An intercourse was then kept -up with the Emperor of China, who gave his daughter to the ruler of -Bokhara: but with this fair partner followed the inroads of the Toorks, -which appear to have always desolated this country. We are next brought -to the age of Islam and the inroads of the Arabs, who contended with a -Queen, or Khatoon, famed as an idolater, but equally for her love of -justice; which is yet commemorated by popular songs. Her son embraced -the religion of the Faithful, but relented, and was put to death when -the Arabs finally established themselves in Toorkistan. This person -built a grand mosque in the ninety-fourth year of the Hejira (A.D. -716), causing the prayers to be read in Persian, “because it was the -language of the country.”[37] From that time the fame and size of the -city increased; and we hear of the commerce and vast population, the -deeds of the renowned Haroon ool Rusheed, and of Arslan Khan, both -of whom beautified and enriched it. We are also gravely told, on the -authority of the Archangel Gabriel, of the joyful procession with which -its inhabitants would be blessed on the day of judgment. - -~From the age of Jengis to the invasion of the Uzbeks.~ - -Such is the early history of Bokhara, till the destroying Jengis -desolated it with his horde of Tartars in the 622d year of the -Hejira (A.D. 1232). It then appears, by the accounts of its bazars, -buildings, and aqueducts, to have been really a wealthy and fine -capital; but, in common with many great cities, it was overwhelmed by -the destructive hostilities of the Tartar, who swept, with unrelenting -fury from the Caspian to the Indus. In its turn, the kingdom of -Bokhara, ruled by its Ameer, the great Timur, a descendant of the -ferocious Jengis, wreaked its vengeance on neighbouring and distant -nations, and shook the bonds of sovereignty throughout Asia. The deeds -of this hero belong to the history of which I now treat; but the -conquests of Timour, and his enlightened institutes, his martial and -political career, require only a passing notice in this literary age. -His successors, after some generations, were driven from this their -paternal kingdom, and founded the dominion of the Great Moguls in -India, under the valiant Baber, whose present pageant successors yet -live, I cannot call it reign, in Delhi. This last revolution sprang -from the invasion of the Uzbek Tartars; another tribe from the seats of -Jengis, and also related to that conqueror, who crossed the Jaxartes -in the beginning of the sixteenth century, and retain in these times -all the countries of Mawur ool nuhr, or Transoxiana, extending to the -base of Hindoo Koosh. The Uzbeks achieved this great conquest under -Sheibanee Khan and his son. Baber was assisted by the King of Persia; -and Sheibanee Khan was defeated and slain at the battle of Merve. - -~Nadir Shah’s inroad to the end of Shah Moorud’s reign.~ - -The supremacy which the Uzbek race had thus acquired was maintained -in the different kingdoms of Transoxiana, till the invasion of Nadir -Shah, in the early part of the last century. Aboolfuez Khan then ruled -in Bokhara, as Ameer, or Governor, and was acknowledged to be the -hereditary representative of the Uzbeks, who had expelled the house of -Timour, as well as a male descendant of the great Jengis. His Attalik, -or Vizier, Ruheem Khan, an Uzbek of the Mungut tribe, intrigued with -the Persian conqueror, and brought him to the gates of the city. Nadir -spared Bokhara; but the minister put the Ameer to death, and raised up -a son in his stead, to whom he had given his own daughter in marriage. -Him he also murdered. On the death of Ruheem Khan, this cruel and -treacherous minister was succeeded by Danial Beg, an Uzbek of the same -tribe (Mungut), who was distantly related, by marriage, to Aboolfuez -Khan. He pretended to no higher powers than the last minister, and -governed the country in the name of Aboolghazee Khan, a descendant -of the late Ameer and of Jengis. On the death of Danial Beg, his son -Moorad succeeded him as Vizier; and, setting aside the pageant king, -in whose name his father had ruled, proclaimed himself the Ameer of -Bokhara. Shah Moorad reigned seventeen years, and died about the -year 1800. He was greater as a theologian than a ruler; but the name -of Begee Jan, by which he was familiarly known, is much revered by -the Uzbeks, and many singular stories are related regarding him. He -carried on wars with the King of Cabool, and all the neighbouring and -less powerful states. He destroyed the city of Merve, in the desert, -and marched the greater part of its population to Bokhara; but his -deeds contributed little to his fame or the aggrandisement of a -kingdom, which he had usurped. From the time of Shah Moorad, the male -descendants of Jengis Khan have ceased to reign in Bokhara. There are -yet some members of that family in the country who live in poverty and -contempt; and the last King of Bokhara was, I understand, related to -them by the mother’s side. - -~Reign of Hyder and the present King Nussier oollah.~ - -Shah Moorad was succeeded by his son Hyder, commonly called Saeed, -or Pure. He converted his office more into that of a priest than a -king, and his rigid adherence to the Koran, while it has rendered him -illustrious throughout the Mahommedan world, has greatly increased -bigotry and fanaticism in the country which he governed. He viewed -his title as Commander of the Faithful in its literal sense, and -passed the greater portion of his time in endeavouring to correct and -improve the morals of his age. Had his vigils been extended to external -politics, he might have, perhaps, benefited his country; but, after -a long and useless reign of twenty-seven years, he bequeathed (A. D. -1825) to his children a disputed succession, and a kingdom that had -been insulted and encroached upon from every side. His death was the -signal of revolt and civil war among his offspring. Ameer Hoosein, his -son, was proclaimed King, and perished, after a reign of fifty days, -not without suspicion of poison, which was administered by the Koosh -Begee, or minister, who favoured the pretensions of another brother. -He was succeeded by Omar Khan, who seized the reins of government and -the capital. His elder brother, Nussier oollah, or, as he is generally -styled, Buhadoor Khan, had, however, secured the secret influence of -the Koosh Begee, (though avowedly a partisan of Omar,) and prepared to -resist his power with all determination. He seized, as a preliminary -step, on the city of Samarcand, and, marching down upon Bokhara, -possessed himself of the canals and aqueducts which supply it with -water: these he closed, and the city fell into his hands, after a siege -of fifty days; delivered to him, however, by the Koosh Begee, whom he -appointed minister. Omar was placed in confinement; but he fled from -his keepers, and, after wandering to Meshid and Balkh, died of cholera -in Kokan; from which his remains were brought for interment to Bokhara. -Nussier oollah entered on the sovereignty without further resistance. -He put thirty of his brother’s partisans to death, and ordered one of -the principal Bees, or chiefs, to be thrown from the palace-gate, the -usual mode of execution in these countries. His treatment of three -younger brothers was far less justifiable: he sent them to an estate -on the banks of the Oxus, and cruelly ordered them to be murdered, -lest they should cabal against him; and Nussier oollah himself, the -only survivor of six children, now reigns in Bokhara. How little the -practical good worked by the bigoted parent on his unhappy children! -But Nussier oollah has, in some degree (if such be possible), redeemed -himself from the foul and vicious acts by which he secured his throne: -he now rules his subjects with a just and impartial hand, and has -ceased to resort to cruelty or crime in upholding his government, since -he has had no rival in the scene. He has a young and increasing family. - - - - -CHAP. IX. - -ON THE POLITICAL AND MILITARY POWER OF BOKHARA. - - -~Importance of the kingdom of Bokhara.~ - -The importance of Bokhara does not arise from the extent of its -territories, but the position in which they stand. The fame which it -enjoys as a kingdom is to be traced to the days of the Chaghtyes. -It then included all Mawur ool Nuhr, or the country _between_ the -rivers Oxus and Jaxartes, extended to Kharasm and the Caspian, and far -into Khorasan. That age of splendour has long since passed; but the -favourable site of the capital still invests it with a great influence -among the natives of Transoxiana. Situated between the richest regions -of Europe and Asia, and in a tract surrounded by steppes and deserts, -Bokhara becomes the resting place of the merchant and the traveller, -and the centre of an extensive commerce. Viewed either in a military -or political light, its situation is commanding, and in the highest -degree valuable. Blessed with an exuberance of the productions of the -soil, in a land of barrenness it arrests the attention of remote and -neighbouring nations. In former times, it attracted the cupidity of -the Greeks and the Arabian Caliphs. It was overrun by the hordes of -the North; and from it, as a base, the renowned Timour led his legions -victorious to the remote countries of Asia. In modern days, it has -received ambassadors from the emperors of China and Russia, the Sultan -of Constantinople, and the monarchs of Persia and Cabool. It likewise -holds a supremacy among the surrounding Uzbek nations, who look up -to it as the capital of their tribe, and render a voluntary, though -nominal, homage to the ruler. - -~Power and character of the King.~ - -The King of Bokhara rules, as in other Asiatic nations, a sovereign -despot; nevertheless, he is controlled in every action by the authority -of the Moollahs, or priests. This arises from no inability on his own -part to assert his power, but from the constitution of the monarchy, -which is exclusively based on the laws of the Koran, here more strictly -enforced perhaps than in any other Mahommedan country. The reigning -King of Bokhara, Nussier oollah, or, as he is styled, Buhadoor Khan, -is a young man of twenty-seven years of age. He takes the title of -Ameer ool Moomuneen, or Commander of the Faithful, and is always -addressed by the name of Huzrut; which is only used by the Mahommedans -of Toorkistan in speaking of their prophets. The name of King is -seldom mentioned in official documents; that of Ameer is preferred, -which without the affix of “ool Momuneen,” was the title by which -Timour and his successors were designated, down to the days of Baber. -It has a religious signification, which particularly unites it to the -King of Bokhara. He looks upon himself as one of the heads of the -Mahommedan religion. A respect is, nevertheless, paid to the Sultan of -Constantinople, as he is here styled the Caliph of Rome; and the King -of Bokhara is proud to hold the title of his bow-bearer. - -The reigning King succeeded to the throne seven years since. He is -naturally just and liberal, and very strict in the observances of -religion. He appears, indeed, to be gradually sinking into the bigoted -habits of his father; which the nature of his government renders it -difficult to avoid. On his accession he divested himself of all his own -and his father’s wealth; which has gained him a high reputation among -his countrymen. In all his acts he is guided by the law; and the people -pretend that his private expenses are defrayed from the capitation tax; -which he exacts from Jews and Hindoos, since it would be sinful to so -appropriate the money of true believers. He is of an ambitious and -warlike disposition, and employs his revenues in the conciliation of -his army; to whom he has endeared himself by profuse largesses. - -~The Koosh Begee, or Vizier.~ - -His minister, the Koosh Begee, possesses great influence over him; and, -though chiefly indebted to him for his throne, the King entertains no -dread of his power. He never leaves the citadel till his Vizier is -present to take charge of it. His Majesty will not receive his food -at any other hands but those of his minister. This person is of an -advanced age; upwards of sixty. He is an Uzbek, of the tribe of Mungut, -possessed of talent and acquirements; and unremitting in his attentions -to business. He also trades to a great extent, and is fond of money, -but strictly just in levying the taxes on commerce. The high office of -Vizier may be considered hereditary in his family: his father enjoyed -it; his brothers hold two of the governments; and his sons, of whom he -has thirteen, are employed in different districts or provinces. He has -fixed on one of these as his successor. There is a great mixture of -cunning in the minister’s character; but he is a liberal-minded man, -and favourably disposed to Europeans, and, in particular, the English. -The whole wealth and power of the kingdom is at his command; since he -receives the revenues, and is able to sway the priesthood, to whom he -is ever respectful and conciliatory. - -~Political condition of the Uzbeks.~ - -Nothing is more remarkable to a traveller in Toorkistan than the -entire want of chiefs, or Sirdars, among the people, as in India and -Cabool. Here there are no great men, no Khans, or nobles, and no one -of consequence, but the court and the priesthood. The whole of the -governments are either held by slaves or dependents of the minister; -and every town and village is ruled by the Moollahs or Khwajus, the -descendants of the first Caliphs. As the base of the government of -Bokhara is the Koran, and the whole community are, or desire to be, -considered spiritual, it will fully account for the exception in -favour of the church. That engine and the state go heart in hand in -Toorkistan, and give mutual support to each other. There is no shadow -of popular government; but still, there is no evidence of discontent -under such a system of rule, though people could not be more thoroughly -enslaved than the Uzbeks. We must attribute this universal contentment -of the community to the protection which is derived from a strict -enforcement of the laws of the Koran. That book, at best, appears but -a poor Magna Charta; yet it fixes on a settled basis the principles -of jurisprudence; which, no doubt, leads the people to consider the -clergy as their best protection against the ambitious power of the -government. Their rigid adherence to the written law entitles these -doctors to the share of gratitude which they enjoy. No measures of -state are ever entered upon without their sanction; and a great -portion of the revenues are alienated for the support of the national -religion and the colleges which teach it. The surplus revenues of the -capital are even divided after this manner; and the whole plan of -administration bears a nearer resemblance to a hierarchy than any other -government. If a murder be committed; if a robbery occur; if a dispute -arise on any subject, it is immediately referred to the priesthood, -since the King does not take upon himself to judge of the merits of a -case without them. I am assured that this system has existed at Bokhara -from the earliest ages of Mahommedanism, and is not coeval with the -invasion of the Uzbeks, though it was more firmly established in the -reign of the last King, Hyder Shah, who held his creed in bigoted -veneration. Whatever may be the opinions entertained of the religion of -Mahommed, it is productive of great advantages in the administration -of a kingdom, when its laws are rigidly enforced. The police of the -city and kingdom of Bokhara is strict and efficient: the largest bales -of goods, as I have already stated, are left in open stalls at night -without danger, and the roads of the country are free from either -robbers or thieves. The uncompromising manner in which offenders are -treated, and the summary justice inflicted upon them, instil a salutary -terror into the minds of the ill-disposed. The most trivial offences -are punished with death: fines, and imprisonment in horrid dungeons, -are also employed, but more rarely. The laws of Mahommed are as much -enforced as they ever were under his own eye; and the legislation that -united the wandering Arabs of the desert has been transferred, without -a single improvement or alteration, to a people differing in manners, -habits, and languages, and considerably advanced in some points of -civilisation. - -~Revenues of Bokhara.~ - -The revenues of the kingdom are levied according to the same -standard--the dicta of the Koran. A merchant pays one fortieth as a tax -on his goods; a farmer renders one fourth of the harvest of his fields -to the King: but the greater part of land in the country has been -alienated for the support of the religious men and establishments; and -many of these take the higher assessment of three tenths of the crop: -nor do the husbandmen complain of this exorbitant impost. In Toorkistan -land is valued by the water which it can command; and the individual -who distributes that necessary of life into the different aqueducts -about the capital holds a high rank in the state. A money-tax is -levied on gardens, and orchards, and melon-beds. All the inhabitants of -the country, not Mahommedans, pay a capitation tax annually. In time of -war, each householder is also taxed. There is a sum of money derived -from the customs of Bokhara; but, with this single exception, the whole -revenue is raised from the land. The following is an abstract of its -amount:-- - - Tillas. - { Rametun 4,000 - { Zundunee 6,000 - { Wafkund 3,000 - The seven tomuns of { Wurdunzye 3,000 - Bokhara { Kyrabad 4,000 - { Wangazye 6,000 - { Kizhdowun 6,000 - ------ 31,000 - { Sheeraz 6,000 - { Sohood 4,000 - The five tomuns of { Afeenkund 6,000 - Samarcand { Anhar 5,000 - { Shoudar 12,000 - ------ 33,000 - { Punjkund 4,000 - { Oometan 2,000 - Districts under Samarcand { Pan 2,000 - { Ooroogut 6,000 - { Karratippu 2,000 - ------ 16,000 - { Katakoorghan 12,000 - { Kutarchee 6,000 - Meeankal, or Kuta-Koorghan, { Punjshumbu 5,000 - between { Meetan 4,000 - Bokhara and Samarcand { Noorator 5,000 - { Engi Koorghan 6,000 - { Chulak 5,000 - ------ 43,000 - - Kermina { Kermina 12,000 - { Zoodeen 15,000 - ------ 27,000 - - Jizzak Jizzak 8,000 - ------ 8,000 - - { Kurshee 12,000 - { Khozar 6,000 - Kurshee { Sheerabuel 5,000 - { Sadabad 4,000 - { Chiraghchee 5,000 - ------ 32,000 - - { Narazsee 5,000 - Banks of the Oxus, { Kukee 4,000 - called “Lubab” { Charjooee 8,000 - { Ootar 5,000 - ------ 22,000 - - Karakool Karakool 15,000 - ------ 15,000 - - City of Bokhara Bokhara 50,000 - ------ 50,000 - ------- - Grand total of tillas (or rupees 18 lacs) 277,000 - ------- - -From Balkh the crown receives nothing; the revenue is said to have -declined with its population, and the scanty returns from it, amounting -to 20,000 tillas, are granted to the chief, Eshan Khoju, who protects -it. Both Balkh and Jizzak are late acquisitions to the kingdom. As far -as an opinion can be formed on such subjects, I am led to believe that -the net land revenue of this kingdom amounts to about thirty-six lacs -of rupees, or double that which is received into the royal treasury, -since about half the land is enjoyed by the church. All the names -mentioned in the enumeration of the revenue are market-towns or -places, except the five “tomuns” of Samarcand. These are old names. -The idea which we have of towns and villages must be received with -considerable qualification in Toorkistan. A bazar, or market-place, is -sometimes a small village, and the inhabitants, instead of living in -it, reside in “robats,” at a distance, visiting it on market-days from -a circuit of ten or fifteen miles. The bazars of the country are held -on fixed days, with great regularity, as in Europe. - -~Military force, &c.~ - -~Spirit of the Uzbeks.~ - -The military force of Bokhara is levied from the different districts -of the kingdom, and has no discipline. It consists of about 20,000 -horse and 4000 infantry, with forty-one pieces of artillery. There are -likewise a description of troops, called “eeljaree,” or militia, which -are formed of the dependents and servants of the government, and amount -to about 50,000 horse, 10,000 of which are from Balkh and the countries -south of the Oxus. It might be further increased by levies among the -Toorkmuns; but the services of that tribe can only be commanded by the -individual who can enforce them. This is no great number, where almost -every individual, rich and poor, has a horse of some description. These -troops are seldom or ever called upon to serve, and, when embodied, -receive no pay. The registered, or “duftur,” troops are paid in grain, -and the chiefs have assignments of land. Each soldier receives yearly -eight Bokhara maunds of grain, each of which is equal to 256 lbs. -English. It consists of wheat, barley, juwaree, and urzun. The infantry -receive the same allowances as the cavalry, and, what is singular, -they come into field on horseback, and then dismount. They arm with -matchlocks, and are called “khusa burdar.” The horsemen have swords; -sometimes long knives, and heavy spears, about twenty feet long, with a -short blade. These lances are constructed of different pieces of wood -(generally of willow), and have an unwieldy appearance; they never -break at the joinings. The Uzbeks have few fire-arms, and use them -indifferently. An Indian or an Afghan never sets out on a journey but -he bristles with arms. The Uzbek, on the other hand, contents himself -with a lance, or the knife which he usually wears in his girdle. From -what I hear, the Uzbeks are not much to be dreaded as enemies. Their -manner of fighting wants spirit and courage; they vociferate loudly, -and the fate of the advanced guard decides the conquest. They are a -superior description of irregular cavalry, but poor soldiers. The -park of cannon lies neglected in the citadel, for the Uzbeks do not -properly appreciate the value of artillery, and the King has only to -contend with horse. There are no native artillerymen, and the guns lie -separated from their carriages, which, as may be imagined, are by no -means efficient. The train could, however, be easily put in order by -some of the Russian slaves. All the cannon are brass; three-fourths of -them appeared to be small field-pieces, four and six pounders. There -are four mortars; the rest are large guns. The powder of the country is -serviceable. - -~Detail of the military force.~ - -The following detail of the military force of the kingdom will afford -an insight into the power of the several districts, and serve also -to mark the great Uzbek tribes at present existing in the country. -The first list is composed of cavalry; I also add the names of their -chiefs, here called “Bee,” which is a Turkish word, better known in -Europe as Bey. - - ---------------+-------------------+-------------------+---------------- - Tribes. | No. | Chiefs. | District. - ---------------+-------------------+-------------------+---------------- - Kongrad | 1,000 | Moorad Bee | Kurshee. - Suraee | 1,000 | Ashoor Bee. | - Yaboo | 2,000 | Md. Ameer Bee. | - Khitai | 500 | Hoosun Bee | Yargi Koorghan. - Kipchack | 500 | Mahmood Bee | Chuluk. - Surkh Khitai | 800 | Aderagood Bee Kut | Koorghan. - Kara Kilpauk | 400 | Thikeem Bee | Sheeraz. - Kur Khyooz | 500 | Shade Bee | Jizzak. - Dyakhlee | 600 | Alum Bee | Punjenud. - Meeng | 2,000 | Kut Bee | Ooloogut. - Nymun | 500 | Kalaitoksa Bee | Zeodeen. - Julaee | 400 | Roostum Bee | Punjshumbu. - Meetna | 400 | Abdoo Jubbar Bee | Meetum. - Bahreen | 500 | Kobad Bee | Katurchee. - Boorkoot | 500 | Abdoo Jubber Bee | Nooratun. - Kulloogh | 600 | Abdoo Russool Bee | Kermina. - Huzara | 300 | Abdoo Jubber Bee | Ditto. - Kutghun | 300 | Doulut Bee | { Ditto from - | | | { Koondooz. - Arabuchee | 400 | Good Md. Bee | Karakool. - Chunder | 400 | Dolmus Bee | Ditto. - Toorkmuns N. }| | | { Banks of the - of the Oxus }| 800 | Eser Bee | { Oxus. - Kalmucks | 1,000 | Rhodaee Nug | Bokhara. - Mixed tribes }| | | - of Bokhara, }| 2,000 | The King. | Bokhara. - called }| | | - “Shagird }| | | - Peshu” }| | | - Mervees | 1,000 } | Mad. Suduk Bee | Ditto. - | 500 } Persians.| Moorad Bee Meer | - | } | Akhor | Samarcand. - Zorabadee | 500 } | Lootf Ali Beg | { Zorabud, near - | | | { Kurshee. - +-------------------+ | - Grand total | 19,500 | | - ---------------+-------------------+-------------------+---------------- - -The infantry is levied on a much smaller scale, and entirely composed -of Tajiks, or the mercantile class. They are drawn from the districts -as follows:-- - - Bokhara 1,000 - Samarcand 1,000 - Kurshee 200 - Jizzak 500 - Kermina 200 - Kut Koorghan 100 - Punjshumbu 100 - Khojar 100 - Sherabul 100 - Karabul 100 - Narazun 100 - Oostee 100 - Charjooee 300 - ----- - Grand total 3,900 - ----- - -That portion of the troops south of the Oxus is only nominally -dependent on Bokhara; there the Uzbeks are not numerous; a great -proportion of the population, however, are Arabs, who have the same -reputation for soldiers as in other countries. They are not at the -disposal of the government. Except the territories of Balkh, from which -a force of 2000 or 3000 men might be assembled, these people cannot be -viewed as available troops, for they are at enmity with one another, -and the King takes no pains to reconcile them. - -~Foreign policy of Bokhara.~ - -Bokhara possesses a much higher influence, both physical and moral, -than any of the states around it; but its affairs were left in a most -embarrassed state by the late King, who bestowed more attention on -religion than politics. The Khan of Orgunje or Khiva waged a continual -war with him. The Khan of Kokan was also his declared enemy. The -chiefs of Shuhr Subz and Hissar acknowledged no allegiance, and the -Meer of Koondooz plundered and even seized Balkh. The affairs of the -kingdom are at present more prosperous, and the designs and power of -the reigning King bid fair to keep pace with one another. He has this -year chastised the chief of Shuhr Subz, and seized upon six of his -villages. That town, which is famed as the birth-place of Timour, is -considered the strongest in Toorkistan, from the marshy nature of the -country which surrounds it. The power of Kokan has been also broken, -and one of its frontier districts, that of Jizzak, which formed one -half of Uratippa, has been annexed to Bokhara within these four years. -Hissar might be also overcome, though it is mountainous, since the -chief is dead, and his country has been divided among four brothers. -The most powerful enemy of the kingdom is the chief of Koondooz; and -if the city of Balkh has been wrested from him, he has conceded it to -policy, and not to fear. He retains the name of that ancient city on -his coin, and there is little amity between the states. The King of -Bokhara entertains designs on Koondooz; but the country is distant, -and it is very doubtful if he could make an impression upon it, though -his formidable title of Commander of the Faithful would secure to -Bokhara the aid of the Moollahs and a large army. The enmity of the -Khan of Khiva terminated with the death of Mahommed Ruheem Khan, the -late chief, who sent an ambassador on his death-bed to ask forgiveness. -The sons of the two parents, who were ever at war with one another, -are now united. The injuries which Khiva inflicted on the kingdom, -determines its influence over the destinies of Bokhara. With an -inferior power, the chief of that state plundered its caravans, robbed -its subjects, obstructed its commerce, and laid waste its territories. -The intervening deserts protected him from reprisal, though a vigorous -monarch might successfully invade his territories from the Oxus. If the -Khan of Khiva continues friendly, the King will be able to extend his -power to the eastward, where he has long meditated an expedition. - -~With China, Cabool, and Turkey.~ - -The connexion of Bokhara with China, Cabool, and Turkey, is friendly; -and all of them have sent ambassadors. Last year an envoy from China -was deputed to solicit the assistance of the King, in maintaining -the peace of the western frontier of China, from the inroads of the -Khan of Kokan. His majesty wisely declined all interference, but the -chastisement which the Chinese inflicted on the inhabitants of that -state some years ago, may relieve the emperor at Pekin from any alarm -regarding his frontiers. The commercial relations between Bokhara -and China are on a footing favourable to both states; but the Uzbeks -are not permitted, more than other nations, to pass beyond Yarkund, -Cashgar, and their tributary towns. While the monarchy existed in -Cabool, the intercourse between that kingdom and Toorkistan was -friendly and frequent, for the Afghans possessed the province of Balkh. -The number of Afghans in Bokhara is considerable, and the whole Indian -trade is carried on by their intervention. There is, however, no -intercourse between the King of Bokhara and the chiefs who have risen -on the ruins of the Cabool monarchy: the Uzbeks despise the friendship -of Persia, from the hatred which they have for the heretical doctrines -entertained by that people. Their only intercourse is commercial, -and but few of them engage in trade, which is left to the Persians or -Mervees, who are of the Shiah creed. The liberality of the present -minister of Bokhara has contributed to soften the asperity of feeling -between the Persians and Uzbeks, but it is difficult to say on which -side the greatest animosity subsists. The Persians have far the -greatest cause, since they are constantly seized and sold into slavery. -The fame of the Ottoman empire has extended to Bokhara, but the people -have very imperfect notions of the weakness of the Porte. They believe -the sultan to be the most potent monarch of the globe, and I have been -frequently interrogated as to the extent of tribute which the different -European nations rendered to him. We can comprehend the reasons for -this assiduous attention of Bokhara, even on religious grounds; but -the countries are far apart, and their intercourse is limited to empty -expressions of devotion and attachment to one another. - -~Connexion with Russia.~ - -From the time of Peter the Great, there has subsisted a continued -communication between Bokhara and Russia, and it has been based on -the reciprocal advantages of commerce. The land route between the -countries was first opened in the reign of that monarch, and, during -the last seventy years, the transit has been uninterrupted. In the -reign of Alexander, and about the year 1820, the Russians endeavoured -to cultivate a closer connexion, and despatched an embassy to Bokhara. -They had failed in the preceding year to open the road between the -Caspian and Khiva. It is but fair to believe, that some of the views -of this mission were commercial, but they were likewise connected -with political ends. The embassy was well received at the capital. -A mission was sent in return to St. Petersburgh, and several others -have since followed it. From that period, the subjects of Russia have -ceased to be sold into slavery in Bokhara; it is supposed that these -missions have had reference to the affairs of Khiva, but Russia will -require no foreign aid to coerce that chiefship. The Russians have -also established a friendly feeling with the chief of Kokan: they -have impressed the whole of the Uzbeks with high notions of their -power, to the detriment of all other European nations; but they have -yet to eradicate, by their future conduct, other opinions, which -have been as universally adopted, that they want truth and honour in -their diplomacy. Setting aside the physical obstacles which present -themselves to the Russians making a conquest of Bokhara, the people are -generally inimical to them. It is even probable that Bokhara, with all -her pretended amity, would succour Khiva, if attacked by the Czar. -Should these countries ever be subdued from that quarter, it would be -found most difficult to retain them, or control the wandering tribes -around. Regular troops would be useless, and irregulars could not -subdue a race who had no fixed places of abode. It is not, however, to -be concealed, that the court of St. Petersburgh have long cherished -designs in this quarter of Asia. - - - - -CHAP. X. - -ON THE STATE OF KHIVA, OR ORGUNJE. - - -~Limits of the principality.~ - -The delta of the Oxus, or Amoo, before falling into the Aral, forms -the state of Khiva, which is more generally called Orgunje by the -inhabitants. It is the ancient Kharasm, and occurs in Arrian, under the -name of the country of the Chorasmi. It lies about 200 miles W.N.W. of -Bokhara. It is a small, but fertile principality. The inhabited part -is about 200 miles from north to south, and half that distance from -east to west. It is surrounded on all sides by deserts; and, claims -a superiority over these that extends its power to the Caspian, and -brings it into contact with Persia. It has, of late years, established -a supremacy over the Toorkmun hordes, south of the Oxus, and holds -Merve, which lies on the high road between Khorasan and Bokhara. -There are but two places of note in the country, Orgunje and Khiva; -the former is the commercial capital, and the latter the residence of -the Khan. Orgunje is situated about six miles from the Oxus, and is -the larger place, having a population of about 12,000 souls; Khiva -is a modern town, about half that size. Circumstances, which have -been detailed in my narrative, prevented our visiting the capital of -Khiva, though we travelled for some time in the countries subject to -it, and met a portion of its army in the deserts westward of Merve. I -shall only, therefore, give a brief outline of the power and politics -of Khiva, as far as they came under my own observation, or have been -detailed to me by the people. The work of General Mouravief, who was -despatched to Khiva in 1820, contains full information regarding the -statistics of that country. - -~Khan of Khiva. Sketch of his rise.~ - -The Khan of Khiva is an Uzbek, and rules with all the sway that the -lords of that tribe arrogate to themselves. There are no chiefs or -nobles to interfere with him. Though the principality is small, it is -entirely independent; and, during the rule of the late chief, waged -a continued war against the kingdom of Bokhara. The name of that -personage was Mahommed Ruheem Khan, a man of daring spirit and great -enterprise, who acquired the chiefship by the murder of two brothers, -and retained it for a period of twenty-two years by acts of severe -justice, and perhaps cruelty. He is often upbraided by his neighbours -for his tyranny; but the principality of Khiva acquired an ascendancy -under him which it had never before held, and it is not surprising -that he was more feared than loved. He fell a victim to a malignant -disease about eight years since, and charged his family, on his -death-bed, to heal the difference with Bokhara. Before his demise, he -despatched an ambassador to the King, and solicited forgiveness for the -quarrels which he had so perseveringly promoted, and the injuries he -had inflicted on the commerce of that kingdom; since then the states -have lived in amity with one another. Ruheem Khan left a family of -six sons, the eldest of whom, Ullah Kholi, succeeded him, and is the -present Khan of Khiva. He is about forty years of age, and a much -milder man than his father. He lives in great concord with the other -members of his family, and still preserves all the power which his -parent had acquired. - -~Power and military strength of Khiva.~ - -The injuries which the Khivans have inflicted on the neighbouring -countries have given them a greater importance than they deserve, for -at best they are but an organised banditti, protected by the natural -strength of their country. The situation of Khiva, between Russia and -Bokhara, makes it the entrepôt of commerce between these kingdoms, -which extends its influence. Orgunje itself has no internal trade, and -is thinly peopled. It is doubtful if the population amounts to 200,000 -souls. Till the time of Ruheem Khan, it was considered a dependency -of Bokhara; but there is no proof of its allegiance being other than -nominal. The Khan can raise a force of 10,000 men, and has a park of -nine pieces of ordnance. His troops are either Uzbeks or Toorkmuns, -who are armed in the same manner as the levies in Bokhara: some of the -latter carry bows and arrows. The great object of the Khan of Khiva -is to subdue the Toorkmun tribes between his territories and Persia, -as well to increase his revenue as his power. The position of Khiva -has enabled him to exert a greater influence over these wanderers than -either Persia or Bokhara; who are thus set at defiance by a body of -robbers, holding an oäsis in the desert. In the summer of 1832, the -Khan of Orgunje marched his whole military force from Khiva to Merve, -and levied contributions on the Tuka, the greatest of the Toorkmun -tribes. He fixed a custom-house both there and at Shurukhs, a town -held by the Toorkmun tribe of Salore, which is within three marches -of Meshid, in Persia; and he now levies duties on the caravans which -pass both these places. This advance of the Orgunje army is creditable -to the military genius of the Khan. The journey from Khiva to Merve -amounts to fifteen marches, and is almost destitute of water, which he -procured by digging wells at every stage as he advanced. He commanded -in person, and gave out that he had taken the field to resist the -Persians, under Abbas Mirza, who threatened him from Meshid. He was -accompanied by a vast herd of camels, bearing water and provisions for -his troops. About 2000 of these perished from thirst in the steppe. His -father surpassed him in this achievement, since he entirely crossed -this desert to Persia; he, however, lost the greater portion of his -horses in the undertaking, and was compelled to leave his guns in the -sand, where one of them still remains. - -~Predatory habits of the Khivans. Revenues.~ - -The chiefs of Khiva have not generally aimed at such combined attacks -as here represented, but confined themselves to a marauding life; -they continually send detachments to plunder in Persia, and seize the -inhabitants. The Khan receives a fifth of all the booty so captured. -The power of Khiva over the Toorkmuns gives them great facility in -these forays, which are conducted with great success. They also seize -upon the subjects of Russia on the Caspian Sea; and both Persians and -Russians are sold in this country as slaves. They supply the kingdom of -Bokhara, and the whole of Toorkistan, with these Persian captives; and -I have it on undoubted information, that there are about 2000 Russian -slaves in Khiva. It is impossible to give any estimate of the number -of Persians, but both nations are on the increase. The Russians are now -not sold out of Khiva, as the King of Bokhara entered into an agreement -with the emperor to discourage their purchase in his territories. While -the Khivans are thus robbing in every direction, they yet grant a -protection to the caravans that pass their territories, on the payment -of fixed duties. - -Hindoos and Armenians pass through Khiva, but neither they nor foreign -merchants, though Mahommedans, feel at ease while in the country. The -bales are opened, the caravans are delayed, and much property has been -at times extorted; where the chief sets the example of plunder, the -people will not be very honest. The Khan demands duties at the port -of Mangusluck, on the Caspian, which lies opposite Astracan, and he -sometimes enforces them from the caravans which pass the Sir, or Sihon, -eastward of the Aral. - -The connexion between the Khan and the Russians, regarding the -improvement of trade, is mentioned in the chapter that treats on -commerce. It is impossible to form any but a vague estimate of the -revenue of Khiva: little of it is derived from lawful sources, and -the Khan supports his army and himself chiefly at the expense of his -neighbours. - -~Affairs of Khiva and Russia.~ - -The affairs of Khiva have excited considerable attention in the Russian -cabinet, which has attempted, without success, to form a connexion with -it, as well for the advancement of commercial ends, as the suppression -of the odious practice of enslaving her subjects. There is great -hostility to Russia in the minds of the Khivans, and it would be most -dangerous to appear in the character of a Russian in their country; but -the Khan is only able to exhibit this hostile feeling from the strength -of his position. - - - - -CHAP. XI. - - ON THE NORTH-EASTERN FRONTIERS OF PERSIA, AND THE COUNTRY OF THE - KOORDS AND TOORKMUNS. - - -~Extent of Persian power over the Toorkmuns.~ - -It will now be necessary to give a short sketch of those Toorkmun -tribes east of the Caspian Sea which lie on and beyond the -north-eastern frontier of Persia. - -Their country has been partly described in the chapter on Toorkmania; -and various incidents illustrative of their national character occur -in the narrative of our journey. They stretch from Balkh to the -Caspian, and are composed of predatory hordes, with no king, and a -most imperfect government to control them. The only portion which owe -allegiance to the crown of Persia are the tribes of Goklan and Yamood, -the least powerful of all the Toorkmuns. - -They occupy the south-eastern banks of the Caspian, having their -country westward bounded by the rivers Goorgan and Atruk, and extending -about 140 miles eastward of that sea. The Yamoods are farthest to the -westward, and consist of 20,000 families. They are succeeded by the -Goklans, who amount to 9000 families; the only tribe of Toorkmuns who -inhabit a hilly country. These two tribes have been reduced to their -present state of dependence within the last thirty years. A guard of -about 1000 of them attends on the King of Persia, but the rest of the -tribe occupy their native seats, and pay a small tribute in horses or -kind to a Persian Governor, who is stationed on the river Goorgan. - -~Koord and other chiefs of the Persian frontier.~ - -The country which lies between these Toorkmuns and the city of Meshid -is occupied by the tribe of Koords and other chiefs, who are nominally -subjects of Persia. They acknowledge the supremacy of that crown, but -commit every act of devastation and plunder, if not restrained by -superior force. The Koords were fixed in this part of Persia by Shah -Abbas, to strengthen the frontier; but they have proved a complete -curse on its peace. The greatest of these chiefs held the fortress of -Koochan (also called Kabooshan), and had a force of 8000 men. This -place was captured by Abbas Meerza in the autumn of 1832. Near Koochan -is the smaller chiefship of Boojnoord, ruled by a Koord, who can raise -about 3000 horse. In this neighbourhood lies Kelat, the chief of which -is an Afshar Toork, who can muster about 2000 horse. Next in importance -to the chief of Koochan is he of Toorbut, Mahommed Khan Kuraee[38], -who occupies a portion of the country between Meshid and Herat. He can -raise about 6000 men, and is the most notorious freebooter in Khorasan. - -About eighty miles eastward of Meshid lies the town of Shurukhs, a -Toorkmun settlement, already mentioned as at present owing allegiance -to Khiva. It submits to Persia, when the Prince at Meshid is able to -enforce his commands. There are 2000 families at Shurukhs of the Salore -tribe. This completes the enumeration of the chiefs on the boundaries -of Persia. - -~Weakness of the Persian frontier.~ - -This frontier of Persia must be considered exceedingly weak, since the -whole of these tribes are imperfectly subjugated, and acknowledge its -authority with extreme reluctance. The Toorkmuns view the Persians in -the most odious light, from their religious opinions; and the only real -advantage which the Shah may be said to have gained over the two tribes -near Persia consists in their having discontinued their incursions into -the kingdom. This only applies to a very small division of them, for -the Salores of Shurukhs, and all the other Toorkmuns, carry on their -inroads with a fierce and daring spirit. Their brethren, even on the -S.E. shores of the Caspian, frequently exhibit proofs of discontent, -and have, as I formerly observed, formed connexions with Russia, that -time may improve to the advantage of themselves and that empire. They -are not bound by the possession of houses and cities to the lands which -they inhabit, and their strength lies in the great facility with which -they can move from one country to another. The Koords, on the contrary, -are established on these frontiers as citizens. They have exhibited -much bravery, and considerable military knowledge in making their -strongholds on the plains instead of the hills. The fortress of Koochan -is a place of great strength; it is built of mud, and the tenacious -nature of the soil is favourable to that kind of fortification, which -is common all over Khorasan. These Koords, though Shiahs, form secret -connexions with their Toorkmun neighbours, and connive at the capture -of the Persians and plunder of the provinces. Their country, although -it yields a sufficiency for the consumption of the people, is poor. -It does not, therefore, hold out any allurement to the government to -retain it; and, since it possesses many strongholds, the chiefs, who -are generally in rebellion, can defy every force but an extraordinary -one, such as has lately been sent to attack them. Hitherto they have -parried off such attacks, by giving tribute, and promising future -allegiance; but no sooner have the troops retired, than they have -relapsed into the old state of rebellion and defiance. Nor is it likely -that the present expedition of the Prince Royal into Khorasan, though -much more formidable than any that has preceded it, will effect any -permanent settlement of that part of Persia. Khorasan is a province -which requires the presence of a foreign force to maintain its -tranquillity; but it does not yield revenues to defray the expenses -that would be incurred by such an arrangement. This is a line of policy -that will not, therefore, be pursued by a court like Persia, which does -not lay out the revenues of one province on another. - - - - -BOOK III. - -ON THE COMMERCE OF CENTRAL ASIA. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - ON THE COMMERCIAL RELATIONS OF THE PUNJAB, AND THE ADVANTAGES OF - OPENING THE NAVIGATION OF THE INDUS. - - “It has been observed in every age, that, when any branch of commerce - has got into a certain channel, although it may be neither the - most proper or the most commodious one, it requires long time and - considerable efforts to give it a different direction.”--_Robertson’s - Disq. on Ancient India._ - - “When Egypt was torn from the Roman empire by the Arabians, the - industry of the Greeks discovered a new channel by which the - productions of India might be conveyed to Constantinople. They _were - carried up the Indus_, as far as that great river is navigable: thence - they were transported by land to the _banks of the river Oxus_, and - proceeded down its stream to the Caspian Sea. There they entered the - Volga, and, sailing up it, were carried by land to the Tanais, which - conducted them into the Euxine Sea, where vessels from Constantinople - waited their arrival.”--_Robertson’s America._ Book I., following - _Ramusio_. - - -~On navigating the Indus to the Punjab.~ - -The navigation of the Indus and its tributary rivers, when laid open to -the merchant, must advance the interests of commerce. In the revival -of an ancient channel to exchange the goods of distant nations, we -behold with equal pleasure the advantages of British supremacy in -India, and an increased outlet for the commodities of our commercial -country. An enquiry into the condition and manufactures of every region -which adjoins this great river, as well as those situated between it -and the Caspian Sea, seems, therefore, opportunely to suggest itself. I -have also the greatest inducement to enter on the subject, since I have -seen the bazars and associated with the mercantile community of these -countries. - -~Favourable position of the Punjab for trade.~ - -There is, perhaps, no inland country of the globe which possesses -greater facilities for commerce than the Punjab, and there are few -more rich in the productions of the mineral, vegetable, and animal -kingdoms. Intersected by five navigable streams, it is bounded on the -west by one of the largest rivers of the Old World. To the north it -has the fertile and fruitful vale of Cashmere to limit its sceptre; so -placed, that it can export without trouble its costly fabrics to the -neighbouring kingdoms of Persia and Tartary, China and India. Situated -between Hindostan and the celebrated entrepôts of Central Asia, it -shares the advantages of their traffic, while it is itself blessed -with an exuberance of every production of the soil that is useful and -nutritious to man. - -~Extent and variety of its productions.~ - -The productions of the Punjab relieve it from any great dependence on -external resource. Its courtiers and chiefs may robe themselves in the -shawls of Cashmere, and the strong and beautiful silken fabrics of -Mooltan. Its citizens and husbandmen may wear the cheap textures of -the native cotton. Every animal may be bounteously fed on the grains -indigenous to the country, and a range of mountains, entirely composed -of salt, furnishes that necessary ingredient of food; while the upland -parts yield condiments and fruits to season the daily bread. To such a -mart we can export but with dubious success the productions of our own -or other countries; yet there are some articles in which the industry -of Britain may still cause a rivalry. Towards forming a conclusion -on this subject, we shall treat of the different productions of the -country, and afterwards point out the probable effects of opening a new -door to commerce on its imports and exports. - -~Shawls of Cashmere.~ - -The staple commodity of the Punjab is found in the shawl manufactures -of Cashmere, which have been so often described by others, that they -merely require a passing notice. They are a fabric which no exertion -on the part of foreigners can imitate; and, though the European -manufacturer may impart much of the beauty, and copy with success the -pattern, his web possesses none of the delicacy of the original, and -is equally destitute of that warmth and comfort which the inhabitants -of Europe, in their more frigid zone, are so well able to appreciate. -Nor are the weavers of the adjoining countries more successful in this -branch of art than our own countrymen: the shawls of Lahore and Delhi, -though woven by natives of the valley, and with the same materials, are -wanting in the fineness of those prepared in Cashmere, and have the -degenerated appearance of a coarse woollen, but little superior to our -own manufactures. If implicit reliance is to be placed on the people, -the shawl derives its beauty from the water in which the wool is dyed, -and which is peculiar to Cashmere. - -~Extent of the shawl manufactures.~ - -The yearly revenue from the shawl manufactures, exclusive of every -expense, is rated at eighteen lacs of rupees; but, as it is entirely -realised in kind, every fraud which the ingenuity of a deceiving people -can devise is practised in remitting it to Lahore. Shawls which cannot -be valued at a higher price than a couple of hundred rupees, are rated -at a thousand; and it is not a subject of surprise that the amount -which I have now stated far exceeds the actual realisation by the -treasury of Runjeet Sing. With a more judicious system, this Prince -might double this source of his revenue. An idea may be formed of the -value to which these fabrics may be manufactured, by some shawls having -been lately prepared to order, for the Russian and Persian courts, at -the enormous price of 30,000 roubles per pair; which is, I believe, -about 12,000 rupees. It is a source of complaint among merchants, that -the shawls have lately declined in quality, and good articles are now -only to be procured by commissioning them from the valley. The article, -indeed, has become a drug, and the Punjab government have at present in -Umritsir a store of shawls that cannot be valued at less than half a -million sterling (fifty lacs of rupees). - -~Silks.~ - -The commercial genius of the people has introduced another manufacture -from silk, named “kais,” with a strength of texture and brilliancy of -hue, that has secured to the silks of Mooltan a merited reputation in -the Indian market. The worm is unknown in the Punjab; but the small -bulk and great value of its produce admit of silk being imported from -distant countries, and converted with profit by the trader into a rich -manufacture. These silken stuffs are only woven in the shape of shawls -and scarfs, which have an extensive sale, for the Indian weavers have -been, hitherto, unable to rival either their colour or durability. -There is also a considerable manufacture of satin in Mooltan, called -“atlass;” but it only shares this branch of trade with Umritsir and -Lahore. The “kincob,” or brocade, of the Punjab, is inferior to that -of Bengal and Guzerat, and cannot, therefore, compete with the cloths -of those countries. I should here mention the carpets of Mooltan, -which do not equal those of Persia: but even they are far surpassed by -the splendid shawl carpets of Cashmere. This manufacture is not to be -purchased, and is made, I believe, only for the ruler of the country. - -~Cottons.~ - -The climate of the Punjab is unfavourable to the cotton shrub, which -affects another soil; yet it grows in considerable quantities. The -plant is chiefly produced in the “doab,” between the Sutledge and Beas -Rivers; but, on account of the demand, it is also imported from the -dry country, south of the former river, which is known by the name of -Malwa. The natives of the eastern portion of the Punjab, about Rohun -and Hoshyarpoor, are skilful in the manufacture of cotton; and their -looms furnish white cloth of various textures, from the value of a -yard, to four times that quantity, for a rupee. The cloth is inferior -in appearance to that of British manufacture; but it is stronger -and lasts better, while it has the advantage of being much cheaper. -The finer cottons of the Punjab are exported to the people south of -the Sutledge, who are unable to vie with their manufactures. The -chintses of Mooltan were, at one time, much sought for in the Punjab, -and territories west of the Indus; but the trade is now ruined by the -British imports, as we shall have occasion to mention hereafter. - -~Minerals.~ - -The mineral resources of the Punjab have been but imperfectly explored; -yet, from the little that has been laid open, their value must be -considerable. A range of hills, extending from the Indus to the -Hydaspes, formed entirely of rock-salt, furnishes an inexhaustible -supply, and, being closely monopolised, contributes to the enrichment -of the ruler. It is in general use throughout the country, and most -extensively exported, till it meets the salt of the Sambre lake, -and the Company’s territories. There is another deposit of salt on -the verge of the mountains towards Mundee; but it is of an inferior -description. In the same vicinity, if I can place reliance on my -information, some veins of coal have been discovered; and there -are also extensive mines of iron. The ore, after being pounded, is -pulverised by grindstones, and then smelted: matchlocks and swords are -formed from this metal; and the warlike weapons of Lahore are famous -among the Indian nations. The precious metals are more scarce; yet -gold is found among the sands of the Acesines, as it issues from the -mountains. The salt range, as well as the other high lands, yield alum -and sulphur. Nitre is gathered in quantities from the extensive plains; -and “tooree,” or milk-bush, which gives the best charcoal, completes -the enumeration of what is necessary for the manufacture of gunpowder. - -~Vegetable.~ - -The productions of the vegetable world exceed the consumption of the -population, and increase in abundance towards the hills. Some of them -are exported with advantage to the neighbouring countries; but the -surrounding plenty discourages the husbandman. The wheat and barley of -the plains are expended within the limits of the Punjab; but such is -the number of horses in this country, that gram, moong, mut, bajree, -and other grain, reared in a dry soil, are imported with advantage. -Rice is exuberantly produced under the mountains; but it is not a diet -which suits the palate of the people. The cane thrives luxuriantly, and -sugar is manufactured for exportation. The smallness of its stalk is -remarkable; but it is said to produce the most saccharine fluid, and is -preferred to the thicker canes of India. Indigo is reared about Mooltan -and eastward of Lahore, and it is exported to the Mahommedan countries -westward, where dark-coloured cloths are more prevalent than in the -Punjab. A valuable oil is expressed from the “Sirsya,” or Sesamum -plant, and is both used for the lamp and culinary purposes. The -esculent vegetables, such as turnips, carrots, &c., are produced every -where; and most of the vines and fruit-trees common to Europe may be -seen in Kishtwar and Cashmere. The tobacco of Mooltan is only surpassed -by that of Persia. - -~Advantages of opening the Indus to the Punjab trade.~ - -Without a longer detail of the resources of the Punjab, it will have -already appeared that the nature and extent of its productions forbid -any sanguine hope of improving to a considerable degree our commercial -communication, even by water, with the countries eastward of the Indus. - -A region that yielded corn, wine, oil, and salt was considered, in -ancient times, a favoured land; and we have here, likewise, extensive -manufactures to keep pace with the modern tastes of mankind: yet -the trade in loongees, at Tatta, and in the silks of Bhawalpoor and -Mooltan, which still exists, affords undoubted proof of a former line -of commerce by the Indus. Trade requires a fostering care, to which -even uncivilised nations are no strangers. With such an extensive -export trade as this country possesses in the single article of -Cashmere shawls, it is evident that there must be equally extensive -returns; and it is the province of commerce to effect an interchange of -the goods of one country for those of another. An outlet for shawls -was formerly found in Delhi; but in later years, since the tranquillity -of Rajpootana was restored, they have been exported direct to Bombay, -through that country, by Pallee. It may be unhesitatingly averred, -that the least inconvenient and expensive route, which leads by the -Indus, will turn the commerce into that channel. As we introduce our -goods into Central India from other quarters, we must not look to the -countries east of the Indus for any great increase to our commercial -relations in this quarter. At present the import of European articles -into the Punjab is far from trifling; and, as the resistance to -the stream is removed, the consumption ought to increase with the -diminution of price. It depends on the Lord of Cashmere, whether we -receive the productions of his country alike reduced; but, if he -properly understood his own interests, he might augment his revenue by -diminishing the price, which, it is but reasonable to suppose, would -increase the demand. - -~Effects of a new route on the manufactures of the towns on the Indus.~ - -If we ourselves copy the manufactures of Tatta, Mooltan, and -Bhawulpoor, as we did the chintses of India, we may supersede the -lingering remnants of trade in these cities, since we shall be able, -with our machinery, to undersell their merchandise; for there is -nothing in them that an European would find it difficult to imitate; -but, as I have before observed, we should confine our views to Western -Asia. I do not touch upon the policy of supplanting still further -the trade of India; but I am certain that, in the present instance, -disappointment would follow the speculation, for the consumption of -loongees, and silks, which form the apparel of the higher orders, is -far less than that of chintses. A trade of ten lacs of rupees in that -article has, I am credibly informed, been driven for some years past -from Bombay alone to the northern parts of India. With silks it would, -I am persuaded, never rise to thousands. I do not, of course, include -brocade, which is at present imported. - -~European articles for which an increased demand might be looked for. -Metals, woollens, &c.~ - -There are means of improving our exports to the Punjab, if shipped by -the Indus. It has been seen that the country is without copper, brass, -tin, lead; all of which are bulky articles, difficult of transport by -land, and which could be imported with profit. Wrought iron might also -be introduced: locks, keys, padlocks, bolts, screws, hinges, and such -dead weight have now a steady sale, and are imported by land. But the -great desideratum of this country is woollens; and, in a climate where -the cold is greater than in other parts of India, they become an object -to the people. Their consumption is considerable, and it is vastly -increased by the large standing army, which Runjeet Sing entertains and -clothes in them. In the time of Timour Shah, the Company’s factory in -Sinde yielded a profit of five lacs of rupees, chiefly from the sale -of woollens, which were sent up the Indus, or by its banks to Cabool, -for the use of that King’s army. It is very immaterial to trade, -whether the armed body occupies the east or west bank of the Indus; -and, though Timour Shah and his successors have ceased to rule, Runjeet -Sing governs in the zenith of his power. I must observe, however, that -M. Allard, the general of Runjeet Sing’s regular cavalry, informed me -that he could clothe his troops in English woollens at Umritsir, in -the Punjab, cheaper than at Hansee and the British provinces on the -frontier, where he had tried the experiment. This is to be accounted -for by the reluctance of the merchants to open the bales before -reaching the commercial mart. There is a taste among the people of -the Punjab for woollens; and, though less than exists in the colder -countries across the Indus, it could no doubt be improved by cheapening -the articles, which would follow on a water communication. - -~Cottons.~ - -~Chintses.~ - -With regard to the cottons of the Punjab, I entertain doubts of any -decrease in the price of British goods (which a more facile line of -commerce might effect) supplanting the existing manufactures: they -are generally of a coarser texture than the European article; and in -a cold country this accords with the inclinations of the people, and -will induce them to adhere to their own fabrics. The case was otherwise -with chintses, which pleased from their variety of patterns, and were, -in other respects, a close imitation of their own: their introduction -involved at once a complete revolution in the manufactures of the -country. The chints of Mooltan was formerly exported to Persia; but, -in its competition with the British article, the manufacture has -almost ceased. The European article, when first introduced, about -twelve years ago, was sold for four rupees per yard, and may be now -had for as many annas, or one sixteenth of its original value. The -Mooltan manufacturers, being unable to reduce their prices to so low a -standard, find little sale for their goods with so formidable a rival. -Chintses have, however, decreased in the demand; and the reason is -obvious: they have ceased to be a rarity, and the fashion has changed; -for it is a mistake to believe that the customs of the Indians are -unalterable, like the laws of the Medes and Persians. - -~Jewellery, cutlery, and finer European articles.~ - -For the finer articles of European manufacture, such as watches, -cutlery, jewellery, China ware, glass, &c., the natives of the Punjab -have no taste beyond the precincts of the court, and there the demand -is exceedingly limited. Pearls and precious stones are already -imported from India by a safe route, and much prized; for the more -opulent natives give no encouragement to the minor manufactures of -Birmingham and Sheffield, which too often compose an investment to this -country. With a settled government, Runjeet Sing has introduced among -his chiefs and subjects a taste for fine clothes: but the artizans of -his own country supply these in abundance. In this respect his court -is, perhaps, unequalled in the East; yet this prince and his courtiers -are strangers to most of the elegancies and comforts of civilised life: -nor could such a taste be hoped for from an illiterate people, whose -habits of life, at a late period, were those of a predatory horde. Many -of the chiefs have, within these few years, built costly mansions; but -they are yet unacquainted with the necessity or advantage of furniture, -or with the convenience of glass windows. A few of the Seik Sirdars -exhibit the penchant of an epicure for savoury and preserved food, -such as hams, &c.; but, though wonderfully relieved from prejudice, -no outlet can be looked for in this quarter, as in India, to the -hermetically sealed dainties of Europe. Ardent spirits would be brought -to a better market; but the Punjabees still prefer the pungent fiery -drink of their own soil. - -~Depôt for a water commerce.~ - -In opening a water communication to the countries at the head of the -Indus, it would not appear that any advantages arose from navigating -the great river higher than Dera Ghazee Khan, or the streams of the -Punjab above Mooltan, and, perhaps, Lodiana. The exports for Central -Asia might be landed at Bukkur, which may be considered the port of -Shikarpoor; a town which has extensive connections with all parts of -Asia, and is situated on the plains below the Bolan pass, the great -defile through the Sooliman mountains. If we found it advisable to -transport them higher up to Leia, they would meet at the Kaheree ferry, -the stream of commerce as it at present flows from Pallee, Becaneer, -and Mooltan, which would involve a virtual annihilation of that trade. -Though the passage from Attok downwards is perfectly open, and fruit -is annually sent by the Indus to Shikarpoor, the difficulties of -navigation increase above Karabagh, from the rapidity of the current -that flows through mountains, and there are no solid benefits to be -reaped from the risk. The Punjab trader, on the other hand, would -effect his objects when he had reached Mooltan; for the Chenab and -Jelum, both of which are navigable rivers, and the former a very noble -one, lead to no mart beyond that city. The tortuous course of the -Ravee, on which Lahore stands, with its inferiority to all the other -streams in depth and size, will ever prevent its becoming a line of -traffic, and the more so, since the trade of the capital is limited, -and the great commercial city of Umritsir can be approached within a -distance of thirty miles by the course of the Sutledge. I cannot doubt -that this latter river will be found navigable from Ooch to Hurreeke, -where it is 275 yards wide, and joined by the Beas; after which it is -said to have a medial depth of twelve feet, and is never fordable. -With but little difficulty it might be ascended as high as Lodiana by -the boats of the country, and thus connect our communication between -the sea and the most remote position of our Indian empire. It is to -be regretted that we have no proper report of the capabilities of -the Sutledge from Lodiana to its confluence with the Chenab at Ooch; -but the facts which I have recorded, and I cannot doubt them, excite -the greatest hopes that it will be found navigable throughout, and -present no physical obstacles to commerce.[39] A mercantile capital of -considerable consequence, the city of Bhawulpoor, fortunately stands -on the banks of this river, towards the embouchure. The Sutledge, in -this part of its course, traverses a barren and ill-protected country; -and, though risks would be incurred at the outset, this and other -disadvantages would probably disappear in the course of time. - -~Political condition of the countries.~ - -An extensive commerce can only exist where a liberal protection is -extended to the merchant and his property. In Sinde ample securities -will be required before the trader embarks his capital; but beyond -its limits the Punjab offers a safer route. The lawless tribes in the -Derajat, between Attok and Mittun, owe allegiance to no sovereign; but -they are, comparatively speaking, beyond the channels of commerce. -Though Runjeet Sing has tranquillised the countries eastward of the -Indus, he has not failed to exact the most excessive duties, which -injures the trade. Since the Indus and its tributary rivers lie beyond -the territories of British India, it might be supposed that the want -of a tribunal for the adjustment of differences and disputes would -prove hurtful to an infant commerce; but, with all the rectitude that -characterises the public servants of the Company, and the enlightened -intentions of the Government, it is very questionable, if our system -of jurisprudence has not increased dishonesty and deceit among the -mercantile community; while, unaided by facilities to complain, the -traders of India, particularly under native governments, preserve an -honesty in their transactions, and repose a confidence in each other, -which is fast disappearing from our own territories. With an extension -of our trade in this quarter, we shall require no advancement of our -position; and if war follows in the train of commerce, we shall then -have the double satisfaction of protecting our trade and our frontier. - - - - -CHAP. II. - -ON THE COMMERCE OF CABOOL. - - -~Commerce of Cabool.~ - -The commerce of Cabool has undergone a great alteration, from political -causes, since the year 1809, when this country was visited by a -British mission. In the time of the monarchy, the trade with India was -considerable, and our commercial factory in Sinde, for a long time, was -principally supported by the demand from Afghanistan. The abolition of -that establishment led the merchants of Cabool to seek their supply in -the bazars of India; and though the monarchy has ceased to exist, yet -the body of the people has acquired a taste for European manufactures -quite unprecedented. I have stated that the wealth of Cabool is now -to be found eastward of the Indus; but the dismemberment of this once -extensive kingdom into a variety of small chiefships has not proved -prejudicial to the interests of commerce. The wealth of the state is -now subdivided, and we have four or five different courts, instead of -one, of overgrown magnitude, which, in so poor a country as Cabool, has -a very material influence on the market. But this is no speculative -view of the subject; for the collections and town duties of the city -of Cabool have greatly increased since the exile of the kings, and -risen one fourth within the last six years, without any additional -imposts being levied. Not only has the consumption of British and -Indian manufactures been augmented in the country itself, but the -transit trade to Toorkistan has at the same time increased it. - -~Routes of commerce to Afghanistan.~ - -The merchandise of Britain, which is sent into these countries, is -landed in India, either at Calcutta or Bombay. I am given to understand -that the greater supply is derived from Bombay. The caravans from both -these places concentrate in Cabool, which they reach by three principal -routes. 1. The merchants from Bengal take the route of the Ganges, -Delhi, Hansee, Bhawulpoor, Mooltan, and cross the Indus at the ferry -of Kaheree, above the latitude of 31° north. From this they proceed to -the Golairee pass and Goomul River to Ghuzni and Cabool. 2. Those from -Bombay proceed by Guzerat to Pallee, in Marwar; from whence they cross -the desert to Beecaneer, and join the above route at Bhawulpoor. 3. A -portion of the merchandise from Bombay is shipped for Sonmeeanee or -Curachee, in Sinde; from which they reach Candahar in eighteen marches, -and proceed thence to Ghuzni and Cabool. Such part of these goods as is -not sold in the country, or intended for the Bokhara market, is sent -to Herat. The route through Sinde to Shikarpoor is little frequented, -from fear of the Kakers. It will be observed in this enumeration, that -the great road between India and Persia, from Delhi, by Lahore, Attok, -and Peshawur, to Cabool, is deserted: this arises from heavier duties -being levied by the ruler of the Punjab than by his neighbours. Such -goods as are exported from Umritsir, which is the mart of the Punjab -trade, cross the Hydaspes (Jelum) at Jung, and join the other routes at -Kaheree. It is, therefore, a singular fact, that the city of Peshawur, -which lies on the very eastern frontier of Afghanistan, is supplied -with European and Indian articles, from Cabool, to the westward. The -merchants can bring them cheaper to market by this circuitous route, -and therefore prefer it; which, in part, accounts for the increased -amount of the receipts in Cabool. - -~Carriers of the trade.~ - -The principal carriers of this trade between India and Cabool, are the -Lohanees, a pastoral tribe of Afghans, who occupy the country eastward -from Ghuzni to the Indus. Many of these are men of great opulence, and -proceed in person to make their purchases in the Indian markets. Their -families and flocks repair, in due season, to meet them on the banks of -the river, and their merchandise is conveyed on their own camels, by -easy marches, to Ghuzni. The intervening country is mountainous, and -the roads are stony and difficult; but the territory is their native -soil, and they are free from the imposts and duties that obstruct -commerce. The caravan reaches Cabool about the beginning of June; here -the Lohanees dispose of their goods, and prosecute their journey to -Bokhara. In return for the merchandise which is sold in Cabool, these -traders export horses, the madder of Ghuzni and Candahar, as well as a -great quantity of fruit, both fresh and dried. With these they repair -to the banks of the Indus, where their camels are retained till the -arrival of the caravan of the ensuing season. - -~Imports to Cabool.~ - -It is a trite remark of the natives in these countries, that the -exports of India are but grass, and her returns are gold. These are -indigo, cotton, and sugar, the chief imports of Cabool. The goods -consist of white cloths of all kinds, calicoes, and muslins; also -chintses of European manufacture; shawls, brocades, Dacca muslins, -Punjab turbans, spices, &c.: about a thousand camel-loads of these are -now consumed yearly in Cabool. Previous to the year 1816, this country -was supplied with many articles from Russia; but the chints trade, -which is to be dated from that time, has effected a material change. -The manufactures of Europe have since flowed from India with increased -volume on this part of Asia. It has been believed, and not erroneously, -that the cloths of Russia not only found their way to Bokhara, but -to the countries southward of Hindoo Koosh, and were distributed -through the provinces of Cabool; but a commercial revolution, almost -unobserved, has gradually changed the channels of commerce. It would -be difficult, in the most civilised kingdom of Asia, to furnish the -authentic data, which are so necessary to our European notions for the -establishment of such an important point; but the inward Custom-house -receipts prove it. To the justice and equity of Dost Mahommed Khan, the -chief of Cabool, we must mainly attribute a change so beneficial to -Britain. Once effected, the fabrics of Russia have failed to vie with -our own, and an outlet for our exports, which we owe to the wisdom of a -chief, has been improved by the superiority of the exports themselves. -The only cloths now received from Russia are nankeen and broad chints, -of a description which are not manufactured in Britain. - -~Dispositions of the Cabool chiefs in regard to commerce.~ - -The chiefs of Peshawur and Candahar do not extend to commerce that -encouragement which so distinguishes their brother at Cabool; but their -conduct in this respect is of less consequence, as they have less -power and influence: and the great road to Toorkistan passes through -the country under Cabool. The shawl trade from Cashmere to Persia has -been driven into other routes by the exactions of the Candahar chief. -These goods are now either sent by way of Bombay and Bushire, or the -circuitous route of Cabool, Bokhara, and the Caspian. I am persuaded -that these exactions at Candahar arise from ignorance, for the chief -is well disposed to the British Government; and he must be aware of -the fact, that all the Bokhara merchants choose the route of Cabool, -to his detriment. It is otherwise with the Peshawur chief, who is -overawed by the Seiks, and can only secure his existence by oppression. -His capital, which stands on the high road from India to Tartary, has -ceased to be an entrepôt of trade, owing to his own exactions, as well -as his disturbances with the Seiks. The only merchandise imported into -Peshawur is consumed in the city; and, as I have before said, much of -it is brought by way of Cabool. No merchant can afford to transport -his goods through the territories of the Punjab to Peshawur; and the -Khyber pass between that city and Cabool is unsafe. A tax of sixty -rupees is levied on each horse between Peshawur and Lahore, which has -almost suppressed that trade. Peshawur has no manufactures peculiar -to itself, but a course kind of cotton loongee, which is exported -through Tartary and the whole of Afghanistan. European goods are sold -in its bazars, but the demand is limited. The better orders of people -wear them; and chints dresses and muslin turbans are common. They also -wear Russian nankeens and velvets, and Indian silks. The lower classes -dress in the cloths of the country. The whole revenues of the city of -Peshawur do not amount to 30,000 rupees a year. - -~Remarks on improving the trade of Cabool.~ - -The trade to Bokhara or Toorkistan is so intimately connected with -that of Cabool, that it is necessary to state the information which -I have gathered on that subject before I offer any conclusion on -this commerce. That it can be improved and extended, I feel most -fully satisfied, since those who shared it with us have been driven -from the field within these few years, and the import of Indian -chints has nearly ceased. The duties of Cabool are also moderate, -not exceeding 2-1/2 per cent. It occurs to me that the establishment -of fairs or bazars, in imitation of the Russians, is the best means -which we can follow towards the accomplishment of so desirable an -end as the extension of British commerce westward of the Indus. The -Cabool merchants began to frequent these annual assemblages in Russia -within the last fifteen years; and at present make extensive sales and -purchases. They have been so much encouraged by the emperor, that the -greater part of the Russian trade to Bokhara has fallen into their -hands; of which the Uzbeks complain bitterly. I mention the fact, to -show that these institutions might be introduced with the greatest -advantage on the frontier of our Indian empire, which immediately -adjoins that of Cabool. It may be seen that they have attracted -merchants to a distant country, who would more readily embark their -capital in speculations nearer home, if they had an opportunity. This -would diminish their risks, and, in all probability, increase the -demand, and, consequently, the exports of British manufactures to -Afghanistan. It would at the same time counteract the intrigues and -designs of the great power I have named. No men are more deserving -of encouragement than the Lohanee merchants of Cabool: they are an -enterprising race, who may be often met in the upper parts of India. In -returning to their own country, they speak of little civilities, which -are sometimes shown them, with a gratitude that proves how sensibly -they would appreciate the more substantial favours of a liberal -government. An introduction to the authorities in India, and a few -presents of the most trifling description, would be to them a strong -manifestation of the good feelings of our government. It would also -show them that it took an interest in their welfare, and that it was -not our desire to transfer the trade of British goods into the hands of -British merchants, which is universally believed by these people. In my -interviews with them, I have often had to combat such an opinion, which -I did, by assuring them that it was an increase of the national exports -which we desired, and not an enrichment of any individual set of men. -Perhaps the most material service which can be rendered to these people -is, the removal of grievances in the Custom-house (to which I shall -hereafter allude), that have been generally felt in these countries. -That they only require to be known to be redressed, is, I am sure, most -certain. - - - - -CHAP. III. - -ON THE COMMERCE AND FOREIGN COMMUNICATIONS OF BOKHARA AND CENTRAL ASIA. - - -~Progress of the commerce between Asia and Europe.~ - -The commercial intercourse which has subsisted between Europe and the -nations of Central Asia and India is of high antiquity: it flourished -under the Greek monarchs of Bactria, the successors of Alexander, and -is mentioned by Pliny, and earlier writers. The inroads of the Caliphs -appear to have obliterated for a time the traces of this extensive -commerce; but the inhabitants of modern Russia imported, during the -tenth century, the riches and aromatics of the East into the “great -Novogorod.” The opening of a passage to India by the Cape of Good Hope, -in the fifteenth century, effected an eventful change in the channels -of ancient commerce; but the fruits of that discovery continued for -a long time in the hands of the Portuguese. In the middle of the -following century, while that nation were reaping the advantages of -this new line of trade, the English sent merchants and ambassadors to -seek for other outlets of commerce, among the nations on the Caspian -and eastward of that sea. These expeditions were productive of no -salutary consequences, as we learn from the quaint and amusing accounts -of Anthony Jenkinson, and those who followed him. “Cloth they will buy -none,” says that traveller, in his Journey to Bokhara; “and there is -little utterance, and little profit.” - -~Particular revival of commerce by the Russians.~ - -The attempt to establish a commerce between Europe and these countries, -in particular with Bokhara, at this time abortive, was not such as -to discourage all future endeavours. The kingdom of Bokhara, though -of secondary importance, politically considered, holds a far higher -position in the commercial world. Fruitful in the productions of the -earth, where all around is desolation, it lies between Europe and -Asia, and is a central mart, where the merchant may exchange with -advantage the productions of China, Persia, India, and Cabool. The -proximity of the eastern parts of Europe pointed to it as an outlet -for its commodities, since it appeared to lie beyond the influence of -the line of maritime trade with India. But these advantages were only -to be enjoyed by the nation that adjoined its territories; and, if the -expeditions of the English were unsuccessful, the Russians, who enjoyed -more favourable opportunities, succeeded, though at a much later -period--about the middle of the eighteenth century. It was the design -of Peter the Great of Russia to form a commercial communication between -the Caspian Sea and the banks of the Oxus; but he was frustrated by the -foulest perfidy. He succeeded, nevertheless, in opening the roads from -the southern frontier of Asiatic Russia, eastward of the Caspian and -Aral; and, for a period of about eighty years, they have been annually -travelled by the caravans of Bokhara. I will not assert that, in this -line of commerce, we have a revival of the exact channels of ancient -trade; but a comparatively safe and easy communication has assuredly -been opened between Asia and Europe. - -~British Indian trade established.~ - -While the bazars of Bokhara have been supplied by the over-land route -from Russia, the merchant of India, who formerly resorted to them with -the productions of his native soil, has likewise introduced the fabrics -of Britain. The commerce of the English has been thus widely extended, -and the Russian merchant discovers a formidable rival in the diminution -of his trade. It is a curious reflection, that the manufactures of -Europe should reach the central parts of Asia by a retrograde route, -after they have half circumnavigated the globe, and that the opening -of commerce between Britain and these countries, which had failed by -the direct road of Europe, should be now firmly established from an -opposite direction. The subject is curious and important; and it is -the design of this paper to follow up that trade through its course, -and to give such particulars concerning the general commerce of these -countries as appear interesting, as well as to delineate the lines of -communication by which it is conveyed. The flourishing condition of -this trade will then enable me to speak of the means of improving our -exports, and to state my hopes and reasons for believing that these may -be further increased, to the great benefit of our commercial country. - -~Modern alterations, and routes of commerce.~ - -Till within these twelve or fourteen years, the trade in European -fabrics to Toorkistan, which includes Bokhara and the regions north -of the Oxus, was principally confined to the Russians, who exported -their goods into these countries from Orenburg and Troitskai; but -it is now carried on more extensively through India and Cabool. -There are four great lines of route between Russia and Bokhara, by -which the commercial intercourse is carried on: the first of these -leads from Astracan, across the Caspian, to Mungusluck, and thence -to Orgunje and Bokhara, and may be voyaged and travelled in thirty -days. The next begins at Orenburg, and passes between the Aral and -Caspian Seas, to Orgunje and Bokhara, and is a journey of sixty days. -The third commences at Troitskai, in Asiatic Russia, and, crossing -the “Dusht-i-Kipchak,” or desert of Kipchak, passes eastward of the -Aral, and across the Sirr or Jaxartes, near its mouth, to Bokhara. -A caravan may march it in forty-eight days. The fourth and last -commences at Kuzzul-jur, or, as it is also called, Petropolosk, on -the Issim, considerably to the eastward of Troitskai, and leads down -upon Bokhara by a south-west direction, passing through Tashkend. -This is a journey of ninety days. A commercial intercourse is carried -on between Toorkistan and the empire of Russia by all these routes; -but that by Orenburg and Orgunje (Khiva) is the safest and most -frequented. The great yearly caravan, which sets out from Bokhara in -June, takes that route; and the portion of it intended for Astracan -diverges to Mungusluck, on the Caspian. The stragglers of the year, and -about two hundred camels of the less valuable merchandise, proceed to -Troitskai, and march in August. The “Dusht-i-Kipchak,” which the whole -of these routes traverse, is a flat and dreary country, without fixed -inhabitants; and the traveller provides himself with the necessaries -of subsistence, before he sets out on his journey. But this tract is -not destitute of forage, fuel, or water; and its inhabitants, the -Kirgizzes and Kuzzaks, wander over it with their flocks and herds in -search of pasture. They are possessed of numerous herds of camels, -of the strongest and most robust breed: these are the two-humped, -or Bactrian camel. One of them will carry 640 lbs. English, which -surpasses by 150 lbs. the burdens of those of India and Cabool. The -caravan is entrusted to these shepherds; the merchandise is committed -to their charge, and they are followed by their families in the -journey. There is no road, and no guide but the stars of heaven; and -the camels, in a line of fifteen and twenty abreast, in a slow but -steady pace, only advance during night. - -~Negotiations of Russia regarding its commerce.~ - -In the year 1819, the government of Russia despatched M. Mouravief -on a mission to Orgunje, with the view of effecting a change in the -established line of commerce: they desired to bring it at once to the -Bay of Krasnovodsk, on the Caspian, which is a much nearer route, and -where the merchandise could be shipped for Astracan with the same -facilities as at Mungusluck. The Khan of Orgunje objected to the -arrangement, and the negotiation failed. In the following year another -mission was despatched to Bokhara, by the way of Troitskai and the -east bank of the Aral, under M. Negri, which had also in view an -improvement of the commercial communications between the two countries. -The road was found practicable; and, on the return of the mission, a -caravan of merchants, protected by a party of five hundred soldiers and -two field-pieces, was despatched in due course to Bokhara. This attempt -on the part of Russia also failed, for the chief of Orgunje took -umbrage at a measure which turned the traffic from his own territories. -He sent his army to the embouchure of the Sirr to obstruct the advance -of the caravan, and, if possible, to plunder it. The detachment, -taking up a position on a hillock, defended itself with great bravery, -and succeeded in scaring off some thousand horse; but they only -extricated themselves from the dilemma by burning the merchandise, -and precipitately returning to Russia; for their provisions were -exhausted. No attempt has been since made to avoid the territories of -Orgunje; nor are the duties levied by the Khan of that state immoderate -or unreasonable. It may be supposed that the government of Russia -has taken offence at the conduct of this chief, and is not wanting -in a desire to chastise his obstinacy. There is now no intercourse -of a friendly nature between the countries, though the pertinacious -chief of Orgunje is dead, and has been succeeded by his son. Russia -has not entirely trusted to negotiations for the further extension -of her commercial influence. Numerous fairs are annually held on the -southern frontiers of the empire: that called by the Asiatics Mucrea -(St. Macaire), on the banks of the Volga, is the most considerable: -it commences in August, and lasts forty days. The merchants who carry -on the trade of Central Asia make the most part of their sales and -purchases at this market; and even Hindoos are found at St. Macaire. - -~Exports from India and Russia to Bokhara.~ - -The imports of Bokhara from India are the same as those of Cabool. -About two thousand camel-loads of these goods reach Cabool yearly, -and one half of the quantity is passed on to Toorkistan. The exports -of Russia are sent from Orenburg and Troitskai, across the desert, -to Bokhara. They consist of white cloths, muslins, chintses, and -broad cloth, _both_ of English and Russian manufacture; of imitation -brocade (kimcob) velvet, with nankeen and gold thread; all of home -manufacture; also furs, cochineal (kirmiz), locks, iron pots, iron, -brass, and copper; wires, leather, paper, needles, inferior cutlery and -jewellery, hardware, refined white sugar, honey, and a variety of other -small articles. Much of the returns from Russia are made in specie, -such as ducats and venetians. The annual caravan, which arrives at -Bokhara, consists of about thirteen hundred camels, and leaves Russia -in January. It will be seen that there is a large portion of the -Russian exports that encounter no opposition at Bokhara from the Indian -trade; and I am credibly informed, by respectable merchants, that -three fourths of those articles, which are alike imported from both -countries, are of British manufacture. Where two streams of commerce -meet from opposite quarters, the prices of the one must be lowered, and -approximate to the standard of the other, whatever may have been their -original cost, or the expense of transport. The sale of British goods -is discouraged in Russia, and their transit is impeded by heavy duties; -still they find their way to Bokhara, and are there sold with profit. -There are some articles, such as broad cloth and velvets, which only -reach that country from Russia, though of British fabric. - -~Prices of merchandise.~ - -The prices of merchandise, both British and Russian, when exposed -in the bazars of Bokhara, will illustrate the relative value of the -commodities, and exhibit, at the same time, the profit which is to be -derived by their export. I give the prices in gold tillas of Bokhara, -each of which is equal to six and a half Sicca rupees, or about -thirteen shillings. - - ---------------------------+--------+-----------------------+-------- - | | English Goods from | - Goods from Russia. | Tillas.| Cabool. | Tillas. - ---------------------------+--------+-----------------------+-------- - Broad piece of Russian } | | | - chints, 23 yards } | 8 | None such imported. | - Second best ditto, ditto | 5 | None such imported. | - A piece of Russian chints | 3-1/4 | Ditto, ditto, English | 3-1/2 - Second sort, less flowered | 2-1/2 | Ditto, ditto | 2-3/4 - Coarsest chints | 1-3/4 | Ditto, ditto | 1-3/4 - | | { Flowered English } | - Flowered muslins, 20 } | 18 | { muslin jamdanes, } | 22 - pieces for } | | {20 pieces } | - Finest Russian muslin, } | | | - gold border, per piece } | 3 to 4 | English muslin | 2-1/2 - Long cloth, piece of 10 } | | { Ditto, ditto, } | - yards, 20 pieces } | 15 | { English, per } | - | | { 20 pieces } | 18 - | | { Long cloth, piece } | - None such imported | | { of 40 yards, per } | 3 to - | | { piece } | 3-1/2 - Finest English broad } | | | - cloth, 2-1/4 yards } | 5 | None such imported. | - ---------------------------+--------+-----------------------+-------- - -A profit of fifty per cent. is not unfrequently derived by the -merchants on English chints: one merchant realised it while I was in -Bokhara. - -~European goods. Chintses.~ - -It will be seen that the British chintses sell more profitably than -those of Russia; but that there are goods of a description from that -country which do not appear to be manufactured in Britain. These -chintses are of Polish or German manufacture: they are broader, and -more highly coloured; they look like flowered velvet, and are much -prized, both in Bokhara and Cabool. A knowledge of the pattern would -also throw this into the hands of our merchants. It is broader than -common chints, striped and exquisitely coloured: very coarse chintses -should not be exported to Bokhara, as there is a native manufacture -of that kind. It is about a foot broad, and striped: five pieces of -sixteen yards each may be purchased for a tilla. About two hundred -camel-loads of this commodity are annually exported to Russia, where -the nobles employ it in clothing their slaves. Though the sale price of -chintses be much diminished in Bokhara, a profit of thirty and forty -per cent. is yet realised. - -~White goods.~ - -Of the white goods which are imported into Bokhara, the Russian muslins -are better, and bear a higher price than those of Britain; but they -are in less demand. All other Russian goods are inferior in texture, -and none of them now find their way south of the Oxus. There are about -one thousand pieces of long cloth, three fourths of which are short -webs, expended yearly in Bokhara, and as many pieces of flowered muslin -(jamdanes.) - -~Broad cloth.~ - -~Velvets.~ - -~Nankeens.~ - -~Kirmiz die.~ - -~Cochineal.~ - -The broad cloths of England are never brought from India to Bokhara: -they are imported from Russia; and such is the present state of this -trade, that a most intelligent merchant of Cabool, whom I met at -Bokhara, was thinking of taking an investment of it to Lodiana in -India, where he could afford to sell it cheaper than it is to be had -there, notwithstanding the length of the journey! The finest English -broad cloth, which sells in India for twenty-two rupees a yard, may -be purchased for fifteen in Bokhara; but the merchants who bring it -from Russia say they are losers by it. It is much more prized than the -broad cloth manufactured in Russia, from its retaining its colour, and -lasting better; and, if the price could be reduced so as to meet the -means of the natives, it would soon supplant the other article. Velvet -is brought into Bokhara from Russia: it is flowered cotton velvet, and -about two feet broad. There is a demand for it, and it is not imported -from India. The Russians have imitated, with much success, the brocades -of India, and export great quantities of what is called “false brocade” -to Bokhara: it looks nearly as well as that of Benares, and sells -for half the price: it is wove in narrow webs. There is nothing to -prevent the successful fabric of this article in Britain. The staple -commodity of Russian manufacture exported to this country is nankeen: -it is seldom of a white colour, for they have imitated the patterns of -this country, which are striped and dark. The article sells for 1-1/2 -tillas per piece of forty yards: it is in general use among the people -for their pelisses, or “chupkuns.” I had at first imagined that it -was a Chinese import; but it is brought by the Russian caravans, and -sent as far as Cabool, and even India. I have seen it at Lahore. One -of the most important articles of import from Russia is kirmiz die, -or cochineal: it is used to die raw silk. Till lately, it was sent in -great quantities from Bokhara to India and Cabool: but the article has -been brought from the seaports of India to the Punjab; and the trade -in kirmiz, like that in cloths, declines yearly, and will shortly be -confined to Bokhara. It now sells there for eight or nine tillas a -maund of Tabreez, which is equal to seven lbs. English, and it may be -had cheaper than this at Cabool. It is an article which may be exported -from India to Cabool with advantage. I bear an impression that the -kirmiz, or cochineal, may be procured in Bokhara; but no one knows how -to prepare it. - -~Indian goods.~ - -~Muslins.~ - -~Shawls.~ - -~Indigo.~ - -~Sugar.~ - -The demand for Indian goods in Bokhara is steady. Dacca muslins of -the larger sort sell for twenty tillas per score, the smaller being -half the price. There are about five hundred pieces of Benares brocade -(kincob), imported yearly: that from Guzerat is too expensive. The -whole of the natives of Bokhara and Toorkistan wear turbans of white -cloth which are imported from the Punjab: they are about thirty yards -long and a foot broad, and sell for a tilla each. They are in universal -use among both sexes, and might be manufactured in Europe, and sent -with advantage into Toorkistan. The shawl trade is only one of transit: -it is not considerable. Two lacs of rupees worth of shawl goods have -passed to Russia within the last year (1832). There is never more than -double this sum risked in the trade. The number of pairs of shawls -varies from one hundred and twenty, to three hundred; but they must -be of the finest texture, since none others will bring a price in -Russia. Several natives of the valley of Cashmere, have from time to -time repaired to Russia; and the shawl fine-drawers, or “rufoogurs,” -sometimes alter the patterns of the shawl to suit the taste of the -purchasers, who, by all accounts, are not a little fastidious. The -passion for shawls among the Russian nobles is great, and will account -for the exorbitant prices given for them, to which I have before -alluded. The greatest import from India is indigo, which averages -five hundred camel-loads a year. A portion of it is again exported to -Yarkund, in the Chinese territories; where, though the plant is found, -they are ignorant of the means of preparing it. The sugar of India is -also brought into Toorkistan, for the cane does not grow in Bokhara. -The China sugar, brought by way of Bombay, will not bear the expense of -a journey beyond Cabool; nor can the Chinese themselves send it further -than Yarkund, for the same reason. This coarse sugar has not a very -great sale, for the richer people use the refined loaf-sugar of Russia; -and the poorer classes employ the “turunjbeen,” a saccharine substance, -gathered like manna, which is found in this country, and which I have -mentioned in the account of Bokhara. - -~Trade with China.~ - -~Trade with Persia.~ - -Besides the Russian and British Indian trade, Bokhara carries on an -extensive and direct commercial intercourse with the Chinese garrisons -of Cashgar and Yarkund. A coarse kind of China ware, musk, and bullion, -are received from that quarter, but the chief import consists of tea; -and the extent of the trade, as well as the remoteness of the tracts -by which it is brought, equally arrest our attention. The inhabitants -of Toorkistan are inordinately fond of that beverage, which they drink -at all hours; nine hundred and fifty horse-loads of tea, or about -200,000lbs., have been this year brought from Yarkund to Bokhara. The -greatest part of this quantity is consumed in Toorkistan; but little -of it finds its way south of the Hindoo Koosh. The trade is carried -on by the natives of Budukhshan. These merchants praise the equity -of the Chinese, and the facilities of transacting matters of commerce -with them. They levy a duty of one in thirty on all traders, which is -very moderate. The tea is brought from the central provinces of China -in boxes, by a tedious journey of many months. It is transferred to -bags, and then sewed up in raw hides, as the boxes would not stand the -journey. A horse-load of 250lbs. costs sixty tillas in Yarkund, and -sometimes sells for a hundred in Bokhara: it is entirely green tea. -The best tea found in Toorkistan is imported overland from a place -called Tukht, in China, situated on the banks of a river, and sent by -way of Astracan, in small tin or lead boxes. It goes by the name of -“banca” tea, I believe from the tin in which it is packed: it sells -for four rupees the pound, and is very high-flavoured. This tea is -superior to any which I ever saw in England; and I have been informed -that it retains its flavour from never having been subjected to the -close atmosphere in a ship’s hold or the sea air. The Yarkund caravans -cross the high lands of Pamere, and follow the valley of the Oxus to -Budukhshan, Balkh, and Bokhara. The road is unsafe, and in many places -dangerous, from overhanging cliffs. An earthquake, which occurred in -January, 1832, threw down several of these, and also destroyed many -villages and people in Budukhshan. The traveller likewise experiences a -difficulty of breathing in crossing the Pamere ridge; and the caravans -are sometimes attacked by the wandering Kirgizzes. Obstacles both -natural and political endanger the path of the traveller and merchant. -There is another and better route from Yarkund to Bokhara by the valley -of the Sirr, or ancient Jaxartes, and Kokan, but less frequented than -that by Budukhshan, from differences which exist between the Khan of -Kokan and the Chinese. The Kokan route may be travelled by a caravan in -forty-five days; and, as far as that town, the merchandise is conveyed -from Bokhara in carts. The route by Budukhshan is more circuitous, and -occupies a period of sixty-five days. At Khooloom, which is a mart -between Yarkund, Bokhara, and Cabool, the ponies are exchanged for -camels, and the load of two horses is borne by one camel to Bokhara. -The Persian trade is inconsiderable, from the unsettled state of the -roads, and the hatred which subsists between the people, who differ in -their religious tenets. The shawls of Kerman form the principal article -of import. Opium has also found its way from Persia to Bokhara, and is -again exported to Yarkund and Cashgar, in China, where the same demand -exists for it as on the sea-coast. In Bokhara it is sold for five -tillas per maund of Tabreez.[40] These articles, as well as others of -inferior note, are despatched by the route of Meshid, in Khorasan. - -~Exports of Bokhara to other countries. Silk.~ - -~Cotton.~ - -~Wool.~ - -~Skins.~ - -I shall next notice the exports of Bokhara; and these are far from -inconsiderable, since it has silk, cotton, and wool. The silk of -Bokhara is chiefly produced on the banks of the Oxus, where the -mulberry thrives luxuriantly; and nearly all the Toorkmuns are engaged -in rearing silk-worms during the months of summer. It is exported in -considerable quantities to Cabool, and even finds its way to India. At -Bokhara it varies in price from nine to ten tillas for eight English -lbs. The silk is wound and manufactured at Bokhara into a stuff called -“udrus,” of a mottled colour,--red, white, green, and yellow,--which -is the fashionable and most expensive kind of dress in Toorkistan. -It sells from one half to one and a half tillas per piece of eight -yards long and a foot broad. It is woven by the Mervees, now settled -in Bokhara; but is not exported. There are likewise extensive cotton -manufactures in Bokhara. I have mentioned the coarse chints which -it exports to Russia; but most of the people dress in the native -manufactures. There are dark and striped coarse cloths of different -hues, of which a pelisse, or “chogha,” may be purchased for half a -tilla. I do not suppose they would be worth imitating in Europe. The -cotton thread of Bokhara seems to be in as much demand as that of -Britain: it is exported in quantities to Russia, and much of the raw -material is sent to Balkh, Khooloom, and Koondooz. The wool (pushm) -of Toorkistan is sent across the mountains to Cabool and the Punjab, -where it is manufactured into a coarse kind of shawl. It sells from six -and a half to eight tillas per maund of Bokhara, which is equal to 256 -lbs. English. A few years since it sold for double the price; but the -articles manufactured from it have been found inferior, and the sale -of the wool has declined. It is procured from among the Kuzzaks and -wandering tribes about Bokhara, who were long ignorant of its value, -and yet use it in the common ropes by which they bind their horses and -cattle. The lamb skins of Bokhara are celebrated in the East: they are -only procured at Karakool, a small district that lies between Bokhara -and the Oxus. They are exported to Persia, Turkey, and China, but -chiefly to the former country; the merchants of which purchase them -for ready money, being afraid to risk a commercial investment across -the desert. It is not possible to negociate a bill between Meshid and -Bokhara. - -~Duties on trade.~ - -~Abuses in the British Custom-house.~ - -The duties demanded on European goods at Bokhara are most moderate. -They are levied according to the Koran, and are fixed at one fortieth -of the capital, or 2-1/2 per cent. A merchant who was not a Mahommedan -would have to pay higher duties; a Christian so much as 20 per cent.; -a Hindoo 10 per cent., since the law so enacts it; but the greater -part of this trade must ever be carried on by Mahommedans. The same -principles guide the authorities in Cabool, though the chiefs eastward -of the Lower Indus are more extravagant in their demands. Trade, -however, is not obstructed by their exactions; while the upper routes, -through the Punjab, are nearly closed on that account. Besides the -regular customs, there is a transit duty levied in several places -between the Indus and Bokhara; and some increased disbursements arise -from the hire of escorts through troubled parts of the route. The -merchants do not consider them exorbitant, and complain much more -loudly of the rapacity and malpractices of the subordinate native -officers of revenue in the British provinces. It is stated that these -persons, when on duty at the custom-houses, purposely delay the -merchants in their journey, though provided with the requisite passes; -and that it is impossible to get their goods cleared without bribery. -One merchant of Cabool assured me that he had been mulcted, in copper -money, for one cart in which he was travelling, without goods, to the -amount of eighteen rupees, between Hurdwar and Benares. The mercantile -community of Cabool and Bokhara complain of this evil, and feel it the -more, as the public duties are considered moderate, and their property -is well protected. The Russian government, on the other hand, is free -from such corruption, though it levies heavier duties: these have been -made the subject of remonstrance on the part of the king of Bokhara, -and are now partially reduced. - -~Russian and British trade compared. Openings for increasing British -exports.~ - -When we review the productions of Bokhara, and the apt uses to which -they are applied by her native population, we may wonder at the great -outlet which exists to our commerce in that quarter; but the demand is -steady, and its constancy leads to a belief that it may be improved. -There is no country in the Mahommedan world where a merchant is safer, -and more free from oppression and exaction, than in Bokhara. If the -people are bigoted on account of their religion, they are also bigoted -to the injunctions which that religion imposes upon them. The Koran -enjoins the most strict protection of the merchant in a variety of -passages: nor are these violated or evaded by the ruler of the country. -The goods which are imported into Bokhara are again sent to Samarcand, -Kokan, and Yarkund, in China; also to Orgunje, and all the little -cantons around the capital. Coarse articles are in more request than -the finer fabrics, for the Uzbeks are very indifferent judges. We -have seen that this market is supplied by two great European nations; -but the females of both Cabool and Bokhara prize more highly the -manufactures of Britain: and the influence of the ladies is of no mean -weight in any country. The chints, while it has almost superseded the -demand for shawl goods, has instilled a desire for novelty, and given -a general taste for other articles of British import. Russia possesses -such an extent of inland navigation, that she can bring the whole of -her goods to the confines of Asia by water-carriage; and it is the -superiority and cheapness of our manufactures that alone enable us to -appear in the contest by the Indian route. We must surrender to her, -I imagine, all trade in metals, and other weighty articles made from -them; but we may successfully compete with her in our manufactures. -To a mercantile country like England, a demand for goods is of the -highest moment; and it is to be presumed that increase of demand will -generally be attended with a diminution of price, while the increased -sale would still bring an adequate profit to the manufacturer. A -more extended exportation of British goods into these countries, in -particular of white cloths, muslins, and woollens, I am assured by -the first merchants, and even by the Vizier of Bokhara, would have -the immediate effect of driving the Russians from that branch of -commerce. The present exports of these articles from that country have -been gradually declining; and the increase of the custom-house duties -of Cabool affords the best evidence of the cause--the late increase -of our own exports. I have taken pains to investigate this fact in -other quarters, and the result of my enquiries leads me to believe, -that we may not only throw the Russian part of this trade into the -hands of our own merchants, but very materially augment the trade to -Toorkistan in the whole of these articles. There are merchants in -Cabool who would willingly push speculation still further, though some -of them have a capital of eight or ten lacs of rupees floating in the -Toorkistan trade. The transport of merchandise by the route of Cabool -costs little; and, if Russia navigates the Volga, the greatest of the -European rivers, Britain can command like facilities, by two more grand -and equally navigable streams, the Ganges and Indus. - - - - -CHAP. IV. - -NOTICE ON THE TRADE OF PERSIA. - - -~State of commerce in Persia.~ - -It is an old and just remark, that the Persians are not a trading -nation, and have ever evinced equal timidity in adventures of -navigation and commerce. The extent of trade which may be carried on -through an inland country must always be limited, as compared with one -possessing a sea-coast and harbours. In these Persia is not altogether -wanting; but her population neither navigates the sea which washes -her southern shores, nor the Caspian, that approaches her capital. -The shipping of both is in the hands of foreigners, who have it in -their power to lead the taste of the country by the nature of their -exports, and to increase their quantity as occasion and opportunity -present themselves. Persia is well supplied with goods of European -fabric, both Russian and English, which stand much in the same relative -estimation in this country as they do in Bokhara. English manufactures -are preferred to those of any other nation; and, as the Persians dress -well, their country is, perhaps, the best mart for their exportation -in Asia. It is nevertheless very remarkable, that the British merchant -here encounters a greater share of competition than in most other -countries; and I cannot but think that it is greatly owing to the -remissness and inattention of the English themselves. - -~Routes of the commerce, and their advantages.~ - -It is not intended that we should here enter on an account of the -general commerce of Persia, nor is the deficiency of our information -such as to require any such essay. My own attention has been -particularly directed to its northern trade; but we shall be throwing -a clearer light upon that subject by sketching the whole of the routes -of commerce into the kingdom. The intercourse between Russia and Persia -is principally carried on by the ports of the Caspian; but there are -also routes both east and west of that sea, by which its commodities -reach the country. Meshid, in Khorasan, is supplied with many Russian -articles by way of Bokhara. Tabreez and Tehran likewise receive them -by way of Teflis and the Caucasus. Till lately, the imports of Britain -into this country were conveyed by way of Bushire, which is the only -port in the gulf of Persia, since Gombroon or Bunder Abbas, opposite -the famous Ormuz, has long ceased to hold its former supremacy. We are -informed that English East-Indiamen at one time sailed direct from -Europe, and landed their cargoes in this harbour; but the annual -amount of customs does not now exceed four thousand ducats. In our own -times the exports of Britain have first been sent to India, and then -reshipped for Persia by a most circuitous channel. It is with great -propriety, therefore, that an endeavour has lately been made to open -a road from Trebizond, on the Black Sea, to the northern provinces of -Persia. With due care and attention, it cannot fail to become a most -valuable opening to Britain, for it brings her goods into those parts -of Persia, which are most stored with those that are brought from -Russia, and gives a fair opportunity for a just competition with them, -since it is equally inconvenient for the Russians to send their goods -south of Isfahan, as it was for the English to carry them beyond that -city. The trade by Trebizond places the rival powers on a more equal -footing: and it will be remarkable if the experience of a very few -years does not bear testimony to the greater consumption of British -goods in Persia. This route too has great advantages over those from -the Levant by Aleppo or Damascus, for both the Euphrates and Tigris -traverse inhospitable countries; and there is no safe road into Persia -from these cities but by way of Bagdad. At present, the goods which are -sent beyond that city are of trifling value, for there is a loss in -pushing on the greater and more common articles. The eastern provinces -of Persia, about Herat and Meshid, are partly supplied from Candahar, -in the kingdom of Cabool, which is a better line of commerce than would -generally be believed. A boat may reach the coast of Mekran in ten days -from Bombay; and Candahar is but eighteen easy marches from the sea. -It is therefore a most valuable position, as the Indian exports which -reach it branch eastward into Cabool, and westward into Persia. In this -direction, too, there is no competition from any other nation. - -~Foreign nations which trade with Persia. Goods introduced.~ - -With the command of position acquired by the English from their -possessions in India, it is a matter of surprise that any other nation -should be at all able to appear in the gulf of Persia as a trader; yet -the case is very different, and many of the imports into Bushire are -of foreign manufacture. The Dutch are in the habit of trading with -this port, and have lately established a company for the purpose, -though their operations have been at no time very active, and are now -suspended from fear of the plague. They send indigo, spices, sugar, and -coffee of their own produce from Batavia: they export little cloth, and -their indigo is inferior to the article produced in India. When the -Hollanders do not find a sale for their goods at Bushire, they take -them on to Bussora. The French import the same articles as the Dutch -from their settlements in Bourbon and the neighbouring islands. But the -most formidable rivals are the Americans, who have only entered lately -on this trade. At present, they land most of their cargoes in the east -coast of Africa, from which they find their way to Muscat and Persia. -Hitherto, they have only sent white goods, and with them they have -spread an opinion, which was repeated to me by the Armenian merchants -of Isfahan, that their cloths are superior to British, because the -cotton is produced in their own country, and not injured from pressing. -It is said to wear and wash well; and, if this cloth were introduced -more extensively, the merchants assure me it would have a good sale: -very little of it has been hitherto imported. The chintses of India, -which are manufactured at Masulipatam, have a considerable consumption -in Persia, and of late years have been preferred to English. There -is not sufficient attention given to the brightness and variety of -the pattern in England; and the native manufactures of India, though -much coarser, retain their hue and brilliancy much longer. The demand -for them is, therefore, on the increase, which is the more worthy of -notice, as the English chintses for a long time superseded those of -India, and are now sold cheaper than those of Masulipatam. We have -stated that the Russians introduce their manufactures into Northern -Persia; and they also import the fine Polish chints which I met with at -Bokhara. There is no similar manufacture of the English to compete with -this; which is also in great demand throughout Persia. The English do -not, therefore, keep the ground which they might maintain in the chints -trade, both from their position and manufacturing skill. - -~Hints for improving the trade to Persia.~ - -Towards the improvement of the commerce with Persia, there are other -points to be considered than the routes which ought to be pursued; -but these are of great importance, since a number of outlets must be -favourable to an increased sale. While we improve the communication -from the west by Trebizond, we should not neglect it by the east -from Candahar: that road is safe; but the chief exacts exorbitant -and irregular duties, which he might be disposed to reduce on -representation, as he professes a friendship for the British nation. -It is at the same time practicable to open a better route into Persia, -by the river Karoon, a navigable stream west of Bushire, which unites -with the Euphrates, or Shat ool Arab, before it falls into the gulf. -Goods sent up the Karoon would be thrown at once into the heart of -Persia; but it may be doubted if the Persian authorities have either -power or inclination to effect any such change: it would require their -cordial co-operation, because the country that lies between the Karoon -and Isfahan is wild and unsettled. Next to the lines of route, the kind -of articles to be imported must be considered. English cloth bears a -far higher character in Persia than Russian; but the colour which is in -demand depends upon the fashion; and if due attention is not paid to -it, a merchant will sustain loss. When I was in Persia, in the end of -1832, the colours most in request were, Oxford blue, blue, and brown, -and next year they may change to red and grey; but it may be remarked, -that, if dark coloured, they generally sell best. The outer garment of -most respectable persons is made of broad cloth; and a cheap kind, that -will keep its colour, is the best for export. _No high-priced goods of -any description should ever be sent into these countries_; for property -is insecure, and all persons will purchase that which is cheapest, if -it be but respectable. The Persians, however, are fond of fine clothes, -and will pay a liberal price for them. I remarked, on approaching the -sea-coast, that the common people dress better; I presume because the -goods are cheaper, or that there is greater temptation to buy them. -This is observable in particular at Shiraz. In the case of broad -cloths, a sombre colour will be most prized; but it is quite the -reverse with chintses, which should be highly coloured. The patterns, -also, should be frequently changed, as many of them being on a white -as on a coloured ground: this will not only ensure a better sale, but -a more constant one, as the Persians are fond of novelty. A profit of -30 and 40 per cent. is often derived in the Persian trade; but the -mercantile community of that country are neither strict nor honourable, -and an European trader must deal among them with caution. They are very -liable to overtrade, and few of them have any capital. Bankruptcies are -common; fifteen considerable merchants failed last year in Isfahan, -simply from the non-arrival of silk from Gilan on the Caspian. It is -also necessary to be cautious regarding the coinage, for it is liable -to alteration, according to the pleasure of the monarch. A Persian -ducat now bears a value of nine _kurans_, or rupees, while it was only -held at eight last year. The increase has arisen from the Prince Royal -taking the field, and his Majesty’s desire to fill his coffers: he does -not seem to have considered that, since nothing ever goes out of his -treasury, and he only receives to hoard, he himself must be the loser. -From what I saw of the market in Persia, if money may be lost from this -cause, I am also sure that great sums might be realised; for there is -a scarcity of gold, and it may be transferred with profit from one -province to another. Cutlery is a good article for export to Persia, -and there is, perhaps, nothing that would sell so profitably as good -flint locks: they must be good, for it is to be remembered they are -already supplied from Constantinople, and also from Russia; and though -their workmanship is inferior, it is by no means bad. All the hardware -in the country is brought from Russia. - -~Singular instance of commercial enterprise. Advantages held out from -that instance.~ - -On the banks of the Caspian I had a singular instance of the wide -extent to which the articles of import into Persia are scattered in -the case of China sugar-candy: I there met a merchant, at Astrabad, -with an investment of that article, with which he was proceeding to -Khiva: he had purchased it at Tehran, and was embarking at a small port -called Kara-tuppa, and would coast along the east side of the Caspian -by Hoosn Kouli, Chelken Isle, and the bay of Balkan, to a place called -Okh, which is but ten days’ journey, and due west from Khiva. Here he -intended to disembark his property, and forward it by hired camels -belonging to the Toorkmuns, which he assured me he could do without -fear, since the barbarous part of that community lie south of the road -to Khiva, and between it and Persia. What a proof of enterprise have -we in this single fact! The sugar had been first brought from China to -Bombay, shipped from thence to Bushire, and then sent inland to Tehran -and the banks of the Caspian, where it was a third time embarked, and -transported across a desert to Khiva. It would there meet the sugar -of our West India possessions, that is exported by the Russians, -which would place the products of America and China in competition -with each other in the centre of Asia. I have before observed, that -the sugar-candy of China sent from India will not bear the expense -of transport beyond Cabool, and does not, therefore, find its way to -Bokhara. In the instance before us, we have the same commodity pushed -far beyond that city by the route of Persia, which will better suggest -the other advantages to be reaped from this route than any further -remarks on my part. I have only to observe, that if a bulky, and by no -means valuable commodity, brought from so vast a distance as China, -can be sent to such a remote quarter of Asia, and bring a profit to -the trader, the same route may be used with still greater advantage as -another channel for the export of British manufacture. - - - - -[Illustration: - -_PL III._ - -_BACTRIAN AND OTHER COINS._ - -_Procured by Lieut. Burnes during his travels into Bokhara._ - -_Drawn & Eng^d. by L. Beadley._ - -_London, Published by John Murray, Albemarle Str. June 1834._] - -[Illustration: _BACTRIAN AND OTHER COINS._ - -_Procured by Lieut. Burnes during his travels into Bokhara._ - -_Drawn & Eng^d. by L. Beadley._ - -_London, Published by John Murray, Albemarle Str. June 1834._] - - - - - OBSERVATIONS - ON - LIEUT. BURNES’S COLLECTION - OF - BACTRIAN AND OTHER COINS. - - BY - MR. H. H. WILSON, SANSCRIT PROFESSOR IN THE UNIVERSITY OF - OXFORD; - - AND - - MR. JAMES PRINSEP, F.R.S., SECRETARY OF THE ASIATIC - SOCIETY OF BENGAL. - - - - -PROFESSOR WILSON’S NOTES. - -The coins, of which delineations are now offered to the public, form an -extensive and important contribution to a branch of numismatic enquiry -which has been, within a few years, successfully prosecuted in India. -To Colonel Tod belongs the merit of having introduced it to notice by -his paper on Greek, Parthian and Hindu medals, in the first volume of -the Transactions of the Royal Asiatic Society: further information -was published in the 17th volume of the Researches of the Asiatic -Society of Bengal; and the Journal of the same Society contains several -interesting communications on the same subject, many of these relate to -the present collection, which, for the variety, number, and description -of the coins that it comprises, and the authentication of the sites in -which they were found, is of the highest interest and value. - -The coins in question may be classed under four divisions, exclusive -of the Macedonian and Syrian medals, which sometimes occur. These -are--1. Bactrian, 2. Indo-Grecian, 3. Indo-Scythian, and 4. Hindu. In -the former there have been discovered by Colonel Tod and Dr. Swiney: -coins of Apollodotus and Menander, one such coin has been found by -Lieutenant Burnes, and one of Euthydemus, besides several which cannot -be ascribed to any individual prince, although unquestionably Bactrian -coins. The Indo-Grecian coins are comparatively rare, and the series -is not very extensive: one specimen is in the present collection. -The Indo-Scythian coins are more numerous, and offer a number of -interesting specimens: some of them are the same as those described by -Colonel Tod, Mr. Prinsep, and myself; but there are some which are new, -and there is one (pl. iv. fig. 18.) which is in better preservation -than any that has hitherto been found. - -The coins of the last class, or Hindu are less numerous in this than in -other collections, but such as it comprises are new. - -Besides these coins, which are the subjects of more special attention, -as little known and calculated to throw light on Indian history, the -collection includes a gold and several copper coins of the Sassanian -kings of Persia, and a number of Mahommedan coins, for the verification -of which there has not yet been an opportunity: from their late date, -however, and the fulness of the information derivable from Mahommedan -writers with regard to the history of this part of Turan, less interest -attaches to them than to the Greek and Indian coins, and it was less -necessary to have them delineated. The following are brief notices of -the coins which are engraved. - -Plate III. No. 1. A coin of Euthydemus, who has been hitherto regarded -as the third Bactrian king. Obverse: a head with the Bactrian diadem. -Reverse: Hercules sitting on a seat over which the lion’s hide is -spread: he holds his club in his right hand, resting it on his right -knee. Legend, ΑΣΙΛΕΩΣ ΕΥΘΥΔΗΜ. - -Until recently, the only coin known of this prince was a gold -coin, originally published by Pellerin, and described by Mionnet -and Visconti. In 1831 the abbé Sestini published a catalogue of the -collection of Baron Chaudoir, and has there given a description and -plate of a silver coin of Euthydemus, exactly similar to the one in -our plate. These are the only two perfect specimens yet described: -No. 2. agrees in general character and appearance with No. 1.; but it -presents on the obverse a very dissimilar portrait; and the attitude -of the sitting Hercules is something different. The letters also -vary, and offer only ΛΕΩΣ and ΗΜ. It is possibly, therefore, rather the -coin of Demetrius, the son of Euthydemus, than of the latter; but, if -so, it differs still more widely from the coin of Demetrius described -by Sestini in the collection of the Baron Chaudoir, in which the -obverse presents a king, very unlike the individual in our coin, and -having on his head an elephant’s hide by way of a crest: on the reverse -is a standing figure of Hercules. - -The succeeding figures, Nos. 3. to 5., express evidently Bactrian -coins, as the device of the sitting Hercules, and the general character -of the portraits, sufficiently establish. Some are much worn, and -they are more or less of inferior execution, and present no legible -inscriptions: such traces of letters as are visible appear to be -intended for Greek, although very rude. In the catalogue of Sestini, -above referred to, are three coins of a similar description, all -Bactrian, evidently having the same sort of profile on one side, and -the sitting Hercules on the other. The difference that prevails in -the features of the kings whose portraits we have on these coins, -sufficiently proves them to belong to different individuals. If these -were all Greek kings of Bactria, as is probable, they also show that -our series of those kings is much more imperfect than has been hitherto -suspected, and that it undoubtedly omits several names, whilst it -probably includes others who never ruled over Bactria. - -Fig. 6. This coin is identified with the preceding by the reverse, -the sitting Hercules; but the execution is much more rude, and the -disposition of the hair peculiar. There are characters on the reverse, -but undecipherable: they seem designed for Greek. This coin may, -perhaps, be referred to one of the first barbaric princes who subdued -Sogdiana, if not Bactria Proper, and adopted the device of the Bactrian -coins. - -7. A copper coin, much worn: on the obverse a standing figure, -something like the Apollo on Colonel Tod’s coin of Apollodotus. -(Transactions of the Royal Asiatic Society, pl. 12. fig. 1.) On the -reverse, also, is the same figure, a tripod, with similar characters. -The letters on the other face are Greek: ΒΑΣΙΛΕΥΣ is legible, the -others are less distinct; but they appear to be ΝΙΚ. ΜΕΝΑΝΔΡΟΥ, making -this a coin of Menander, not of Apollodotus. - -8. Is the coin of an Antiochus; apparently, from the countenance, -Antiochus the Great. On the reverse is a standing figure casting a -javelin with the right hand, and bearing the lion’s hide by way of -shield on the left arm: ΒΑΣΙΛΕΩΣ ΑΝΤΙΟΧΟΥ. The device on the reverse is -unusual, if it occurs at all amongst the coins of the Antiochi. - -9. One of a number of small copper coins, the impression on which is in -most effaced. Those that are perfect present a head on one side with -a figure on the reverse, intended for a rude fire altar: there are -Pehlevi characters; and these coins, there can be little doubt, are of -Sassanian origin. - -10. A gold coin, evidently of one of the Sassanian kings. - -11. These are very doubtful. The other engravings are antiques found at -Khojuoban, near Bokhara. - -Plate IV. fig. 18. This coin is of singular interest and value: -it belongs to the class which is considered Indo-Scythian, and of -which representations have been published in the third volume of the -Transactions of the Royal Asiatic Society, by Colonel Tod, and, in the -seventeenth volume of the Asiatic Researches, by myself. In all these -coins Greek letters are traceable, but the inscriptions are imperfect -or indistinct: that of Colonel Tod’s coin has been read by Professor -Schlegel ΒΑΣΙΛΕVϹ ΒΑϹΙΛΕΩΝ ... ΙΕΡΝΙϹΛΕΙϹ ... ΕΔΟΒΙΓΡΙϹ; but the legend -is interrupted, and the final letters of the latter word indistinct. -In this coin the inscription on both sides is entire and distinct. On -the obverse is plainly ΒΑϹΙΛΕΥϹ ΒΛΕΙ Λ-ΩΝ ΚΑΝΗΡΚΟΥ, and on the reverse -ΝΑΝΑΙΔ. - -It has been conjectured by Mr. Prinsep that the name on the obverse -Kanírkos, or, perhaps, Kaníthkos,--for the letter is rather -undetermined,--is intended for _Kanishka_, a Turk or Tartar sovereign -of Kashmir, who reigned about 120 B.C. according to the “_Raja -Tarangini_” a history of Cashmir. Mr. Csoma Körösy also informs us that -Kanishka is well known in the Tibetan annals as a king of Kapila; near -Hurdwar, about the date already mentioned, who was a patron of the -Bauddha doctrines; name, date, and locality are therefore in favour of -the verification, and it must be admitted, until, at least, something -more satisfactory can be proposed. It is not possible to offer an -equally plausible conjecture with regard to the inscription on the -reverse. If it could be read _Tanaid_, it might be imagined to refer -to the original seat of the Scythian tribes, who conquered Bactria, -according to Des Guignes, about 134 years before Christ, and extended -their power to the delta of the Indus. In this coin the figure on the -obverse is the same that prevails on these Indo-Scythian coins: a man -in a high cap and a long tunic, holding a spear in his left hand, and -extending his right either to grasp a trophy, a buckler or coat of -mail, or, as supposed by Colonel Tod, to drop incense on an altar: on -the reverse is a figure in a long robe, holding, apparently, a flower. -There is also the monogram which is found on all the coins of this -class, and on a series of coin apparently Hindu. This monogram is -figured by Mionnet No. 1222, and referred by him to an unknown coin -(vol. 6. p. 715); the description of which shows it to be a coin not -yet observed amongst those recently found in India, but belonging, -probably, to the class. - -19. A coin belonging, possibly, to the Indo-Grecian series: on one -face is a helmeted head, on the other a single horseman with his right -arm extended. The specimens found in this instance are much worn; but -on several, with this device, Greek inscriptions have been read: this -is particularly the case with two delineated in the Journals of the -Asiatic Society for August 1833, on one of which is plainly ΣΩΤΗΡ -ΜΕΓΑ; and on the other, ΜΕΓΑ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΥΣ. On one of Colonel Tod’s is ΤΡΩ -ΒΑΣΙΛΕΥΣ, and there can be no doubt, therefore, that these are coins of -Greek princes either of India or Bactria. - -20. Is an Indo-Scythian coin, figured by Colonel Tod: the man on the -obverse is the same as in No. 18.; but on the reverse is an Indian bull -and a figure in front. - -21. Has the same reverse as the preceding; but the costume is more -distinct, and is that of a Brahman; the figure on the obverse appears -to be clad in mail. These two coins were found at Balkh. - -22-30. These coins all belong to the same series as the foregoing, -some bearing the same devices; whilst on some the reverse is varied. -Detached Greek letters are observable on one or two. - -31. This is one of several coins which are unquestionably Hindu: they -mostly bear an elephant on one face, and a horse, or a nondescript -animal, on the other; above the elephant are Devana gari letters, the -most legible specimen of which appears to read Srí Mahá deva, the -common title of the god _Siva_. - - _Oxford, 17th May, 1834._ - - -MR. JAMES PRINSEP’S NOTES. - -Considering the short space of time allowed to a traveller, in his -rapid passage through a foreign country, for the pursuit of objects -not immediately connected with his errand, and the disadvantages -which his own disguise and the suspicions of the natives oppose to -his search after the very rare relics of antiquity, which may have -escaped destruction for twenty centuries in their country; considering, -too, that the inhabitants are unable to appreciate the value of such -objects, and mostly ignorant of the demand for them among inquisitive -natives of the West, Lieut. Burnes may be deemed very successful in the -store of coins he has brought back from the Punjab, and from the valley -of the Oxus. - -Of pure Bactrian coins he will be able to add at least three to the -cabinets of Europe, upon one of which the name of Euthydemus is quite -distinct; while of the Indo-Scythic, or subsequent dynasties, his store -is so ample as to afford ten to the Asiatic Society of Bengal, besides -those he takes to Europe; and among the latter is one coin of the -dynasty which supplanted the Macedonian princes of Bactria, calculated -to excite much curiosity among antiquarians. - -I shall note the observations that occur to me regarding the whole of -this collection of coins. - -Plate III. Figs. 1. to 6.--These silver coins, tetradrachms, are known -at once to be of Bactrian origin from the sitting figure of Hercules -holding his club, on the reverse, much in the same posture as that -of Jupiter on the Syro-Macedonian coins. The epigraphe on fig. 1., a -valuable coin and in fine preservation, is ΒΑΣΙΛΕΩΣ ΕΥΘΥΔΗΜ, or, -“of king Euthydemus,” the third king of Bactria. The only coin of -this monarch hitherto known in Europe, is described in Mionnet’s -_Description de Medailles Antiques_. Pinkerton says it is a gold coin, -having “two horsemen with Bactrian tiaras, palms, and long spears,” on -the reverse; it is therefore quite different from the unique specimen -before us. - -Fig. 2. has the features of a different prince; the reverse is, -however, similar to the last, and the three final letters of ΒΑΣΙΛΕΩΣ -are visible; as are ΗΜ, which can only form part either of ΕυθυδΗΜος, -or of δΗΜητριος, his son. - -Fig. 3., of which there is a duplicate, is of a similar nature; the -features corresponding with No. 1. or Euthydemus. There are two -others of still ruder fabrication, distinguished by a more projecting -forehead, (Nos. 4. and 5.); they are illegible on the reverse. - -Fig. 6. One of two silver tetradrachms. These are more like Arsacidan -coins, the stool on which the figure on the reverse sits having the -form of those depicted in Vaillant: although the connection with -the foregoing coins is very strong, the headdress and formal curls -appertain to the Persian monarchs. The inscription is in the Pehlevi -character, some of the letters resembling badly executed Greek. - -Fig. 8. This is a coin of Antiochus, probably struck in Parthia, from -the figure of the javelin-thrower. - -Fig. 9. One of twenty small Sassanian copper coins. They have a good -head on the obverse, and a very rudely executed fire altar on the -reverse. - -Fig. 10. A gold coin of one of the Sassanian kings of Persia, supposed -to be Sapor (Shapûr). The name and titles are very distinct, in the -_Pehlevi_ character. It is remarkable that the usual supporters of the -fire altar, two priests or kings, are omitted; unless, indeed, the rude -ornaments on each side are intended to represent human figures holding -swords. A silver Sassanian coin, delineated in Hyde’s _Religio Veterum -Persarum_, has similar supporters. - -All these coins are from Khoju oban, the ruins of an ancient city, -thirty miles N.W. of Bokhara, where numerous gems and antiques, some -of which are engraved, were also procured.[41] - -Fig. 7. This is a square copper coin, from Shorkoth, a fortress twenty -miles from the junction of the Jelum and the Chenab (the Hydaspes and -Acesines), where Alexander lost his fleet in a storm. It is by some -thought to be the fortress of the Malli, in the assault of which he was -wounded. All that can be read of the inscription is ΒΑΣΙΛΕΩΣ. On the -other side the inscription is Pehlevi. This coin may be ascribed with -tolerable certainty to Menander, both because it resembles in shape the -coin of that prince, in Col. Tod’s plate, and because the first three -letters of the word which follows ΒΑΣΙΛΕΩΣ, have much the appearance -of ΝΙΚ, or ΝΙΚΑΤΟΡΟΣ, the epithet applied to Menander, according to -Schlegel, Journal Asiatique, Nov. 1828. The standing figure, however, -on the obverse, and the curious emblem on the reverse, supposed by Col. -Tod to be a portable altar, agree rather with his coin of Apollodotus. - -Plate IV. fig. 18. This is a copper coin, procured in the neighbourhood -of the Tope of Manikyala. - -Obverse--A king or warrior holding a spear in the left hand; and with -the right sacrificing on a small altar. (?) Epigraphe, ΒΑϹΙΛΕΥϹ ΒΑϹ ... -ΚΑΝΗΡΚΟΥ. - -Reverse--A priest or sage standing, and holding a flower in his right -hand; a glory encircles his head; on the left the letters ΝΑΝΛΙΔ; on -the right the usual Bactrian monogram, with four prongs. - -This coin is of great value, from the circumstance of its being the -only one out of many discovered in the same neighbourhood, upon which -the characters are sufficiently legible to afford a clue to the -prince’s name. In the onset, however, we are disappointed to find, that -none of the recorded names of the Bactrian kings at all resemble that -before us[42]: yet there can be no doubt about any letter but that -preceding ΚΟΥ, which may be either Θ, Ρ, or Ϲ. By assuming this -latitude in the reading, I discovered a name which would agree, as -nearly as it could be expressed in Greek, with ΚΑΝΗΘΚΟΥ or ΚΑΝΗϹΚΟΥ; -and should my conjecture prove correct, the discovery of this coin -will be hailed as of the greatest value by all who are engaged in the -newly developed study of Bactrian antiquity. The coin was at first -placed with the Society by Lieut. Burnes; but, seeing its value, I -thought it but just, after taking impressions and drawings of it, to -place it in the discoverer’s hands, for the personal satisfaction of -numismatologists in Europe. I suppose it to be a coin of KANISHKA, a -Tartar or Scythic conqueror of Bactria. - -According to Mr. Csoma De Körös, the name of KANISKA occurs in the -Tibetan works as a celebrated king in the north of India, who reigned -at _Kapila_, which is supposed to have been in _Rohilkhand_, or near -_Hardwar_. His reign dates above 400 years after Sakya, when the -followers of the Buddha religion had become divided into eighteen sects -(the Sakya tribes, or _Sacæ_), under four principal divisions, of which -the names, both Sanscrit and Tibetan, are on record.[43] - -In Mr. Wilson’s Chronological Table of the history of _Kashmir_ (As. -Res. xv. p. 81.), we find Hushca, Jushca, and _Canishca_, three Tartar -princes, who succeeded Domodara in the kingdom of _Kashmir_, either -reigning successively or synchronously. They introduced the Buddha -religion, under a hierarch named Nagarjuna, and were, according to -the _Raja Taringini_, of _Turushca_ or Tatar origin. The Sanscrit MS. -places their reign 150 years before _Sacaysinha_ (or Sakya Singh); but -the learned translator, in a note, proves that the text was at least -misunderstood, and that the passage intended to express “150 years -after the emancipation of the Lord Sakya Sinha.” - -The epoch of Sakya (the fifth Buddha or Goutama) is determined by -concurrent testimony of the Ceylonese, Siamese, Pegue, Burmese, and -Chinese æras, which are all founded on the birth or death of the Buddha -legislator; and, though all differing more or less, concur in placing -him between the limits of 544 and 638 years B.C.: the Raj Gúrú of -Asam, a pundit well versed in Buddha literature, fixes the _Nirwan_ -or emancipation of Sakya-Muni in 520 B.C.[44] Taking, then, from this -epoch an interval of 400 years to the reign of Kaniska, the latter -would fall near the end of the second century B.C. We know from other -sources that the overthrow of the Bactrian dynasty by the Scythian or -_Sakyan_ tribes happened in 134 B.C. (125 by Schlegel). The present -coin, therefore, confirms the fidelity of the _Raja Taringini_ as an -historical work, and leaves no doubt of the epoch of _Sakya_. - -Mr. Wilson finds grounds for throwing back the termination of the -reign of Abhimanya Canischa’s successor, from B.C. 118, as given in -the _Raja Taringini_, to B.C. 388; because _Kashmir_ became a Buddha -country under Tartar princes, _shortly after_ the death of Sakya; but -from Mr. Csoma’s subsequent examination of the Tibetan sacred books, -in which the three periods of their compilation are expressly stated; -“first, under Sakya himself (520-638 B.C.), then under Ashoka, king -of Pataliputra, 110 years after the decease of _Sakya_; and lastly by -Kaniska, upwards of 400 years after Sakya,”--little doubt can remain -that the epoch, as it stands in the _Raja Taringini_, is correct. - -There are other circumstances connected with the Bactrian coins, -which tend to confirm the supposition of a Buddhist succession to -the Greek princes. In the first place, the reverse ceases to bear the -formerly national emblem of the Bactrian horseman, with the Macedonian -spear; and in its place a sage appears, holding a flower, and -invariably having a glory round his head, proving him to be a sacred -personage.[45] Secondly, although upon the first coins of the dynasty, -we find the inscription in Greek characters (a custom which prevailed -under the Arsacidæ also, and continued under the first Sassanian -princes); still, upon coins of the same device, but probably of later -fabric, we find the same kind of character which appears upon the Delhi -and Allahabad pillars; the same which is found at Ellora and in many -ancient caves and temples of Central India, and is held in abhorrence -by the Brahmans, as belonging to the Buddhist religion.[46] - -I need not repeat Mr. Wilson’s opinion, drawn from other grounds, that -the _Tope_ of _Manikyála_, in the neighbourhood of which these coins -are found, is a Buddhist monument, but it receives much confirmation -from the discovery of this coin of the Sakyan hero, Kanishka. - -Having thus far endeavoured to reconcile the coin before us, and -others of the same class to the Sakyan dynasty, to which the term -Indo-Scythic very aptly applies, we may reasonably follow up the same -train by ascribing the next series, which exhibit, on the reverse, a -Brahmani bull, accompanied by a priest in the common Indian _dhoti_, as -the coins of the Brahmanical dynasty, which in its turn overcame the -Buddhist line. Colonel Tod includes these coins in the same class as -the last, and adduces his reasons for referring them to Mithridates, -or his successors, of Arsacidan dynasty, whose dominions extended from -the Indus to the Ganges, and to whom Bactria was latterly tributary. -Greek legends “of the King of kings,” &c. are visible on some; and what -he supposes to be _Pehlevi_ characters on the reverse; but I incline -to think these characters of the Delhi type, and the Bactrian monogram -should decide their locality. Mr. Wilson and Schlegel, both call them -Indo-Scythic; and the latter, with Colonel Tod, names the figure “Siva, -with his bull, _Nandi_.”[47] - -Mr. Schlegel thinks it curious, that such marks of the Hindú faith -should appear on these Tartar coins; but, considering the Indian origin -of the Sacæ, does not this rather prove the same of their successors, -instead of their Tartar descent. It is more curious that the fire altar -should continue on all of the devices; but the fact of its being a -fire altar at all, is still matter of great uncertainty. - -Figs. 19, 22, 23, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30. The series of small copper coins -found near _Manikyála_, and generally throughout Upper India, which -have a head on the obverse, and a Bactrian horseman on the reverse, may -be referred to the reign of Eucratides I., since the gold coin from the -neighbourhood of the Caspian Sea, described by Bayer as having the same -device on the reverse, bears, in legible characters, the epigraphe “of -the great king Eucratides.” Our coins of this type have never shown us -more than the words, “King of kings;” and in most of them (as fig. 19. -ΒΑϹΙΛΕΥ, ΒΑϹΙΛΕΥ) the Greek is so corrupted as to give the idea of -a later epoch. The type of the horse seems to have prevailed long -afterwards. - -Fig. 24. Copper coins of this device are met with throughout Upper -Hindostan: they constitute the third series of Colonel Tod’s plate; and -some in his possession have decided Greek characters upon them. On the -_obverse_ is the same warrior, with spear and altar. On the _reverse_ -is what he supposes to be a priest about to sacrifice the bull; but -in the coin before us the _dhoti_ is so precisely the costume of the -Brahmans, that it inclines rather to look upon the animal (especially -as he has the hump) as the sacred bull of this country, denoting the -prevalence or predominance of the Brahmanical faith in the Indian -dependencies of Menander’s or Eucratides’ dominion. - -Fig. 25. This type of coin is, if any thing, more common than the last; -and the inscriptions are no longer Greek; but either of the unknown -character of the Delhi column, or genuine Hindi. The figure astride -upon the elephant is always much out of proportion, and the Raja with -the altar more rudely executed. The elephant is, like the horse, -preserved in subsequent coins of the Hindus; thus:-- - -Fig. 31. This same device is still common in Southern India. The form -of the Nagni characters on this and fig. 14. agrees with those on -copper grants of land, 700 or 800 years old. - -Figs. 20, 21. These coins were found at Balkh, and resemble those of -Manikyála. - -_Calcutta, June, 1833._ - - -END OF THE SECOND VOLUME. - - - - - LONDON: - Printed by A. SPOTTISWOODE, - New-Street-Square. - - - - -FOOTNOTES - -[1] I can only give the native names. - -[2] “Ta khooda khubur shoodun ab i Maroochak adum ra mee kooshud.” - -[3] Arrian, l. iv. c. 6. - -[4] See “Memoir on the Run of Cutch,” in the Transactions of the Royal -Asiatic Society. May, 1834. - -[5] See Robertson’s America, books v. and vi. - -[6] Travels in Khorasan, by J. B. Fraser, Esq. - -[7] - - Meshid ra goombuz i subzush nubashud - Khuwarish khanu i rooe zumeen hust. - - -[8] - - Meshid ufzul i rooe zumeen ust - Ki anja noor i rub ool alumeen ust. - - -[9] As this work is passing through the press, intelligence has been -received of Abbas Meerza’s death. - -[10] Lieut. Conolly has just published an account of his “Journey to -the North of India overland from England.” 2 vols. 8vo. London. - -[11] Lord or chief. - -[12] Foray. - -[13] This is the manner of reckoning their years. - -[14] The name of the poet. - -[15] Places on the river Goorgan. - -[16] Plain north of the Sir, or Jaxartes. - -[17] The poet’s name. - -[18] I need not observe that this was written before the intelligence -of Abbas Meerza’s death reached England. - -[19] See his valuable Atlas, which has just been published, and -exhibited at the anniversary meeting of the Royal Geographical Society. - -[20] As the text in Mr. Elphinstone’s work describes the neighbourhood -of Balkh to be a plain, the mountains in his map are probably an error -of the engraver. - -[21] About three shillings. - -[22] I brought from Toorkistan melon seeds of every description, -which I have distributed in this country and India, in the hope that -this delicious fruit may be introduced into Britain and our Eastern -possessions. - -[23] Some observations of my fellow-traveller, Dr. Gerard, determine -this most satisfactorily. A bowl-full of water altogether disappeared -in two days. - -[24] Since this chapter was written I have been favoured with a -sight of the journals of Mr. Geo. Trebeck, who accompanied Moorcroft -to Ladak, where this information is completely confirmed. That -enterprising young gentleman determined the latitude of the two places -to be as follows:-- - - Cashmere, 34° 4′ 28″. - - Ladak 34 10 13. - - -[25] Macartney. - -[26] Since I drew up the information contained in this chapter, I -have fallen in with the “Mémoires relatifs à l’Asie,” by M. Klaproth. -Speaking of the translation of the history of Khotan, by M. Abel -Remusat, that distinguished Orientalist adds, “Nous attendons avec -impatience ces traductions, et nous engageons ce savant à les donner -an public aussitôt que possible, pour faire disparaître des abrégés -géographiques un amas d’absurdités reçues à bras ouverts par les -compilateurs, et entre _lesquelles le double Kachgar occupe le premier -rang_. Le voyageur Anglais, M. Elphinstone, ayant entendu parler de la -ville de Kachgar dans le nord de la petite Boukharie, et du pays du -même nom situé dans la partie méridionale de cette contrée, n’a pas -su autrement _combiner ces notions que de supposer deux Kachgars_. Il -est cependant bien clair que dans le premier cas il était question de -la capitale, et dans le second du pays qu’elle gouverne.” Tom. ii. p. -293. It is satisfactory to find my observations on the two Cashgars -confirmed by so high an authority as M. Klaproth, but I cannot agree -with him in his inference, that the one is the country, and the other -the capital; since it has already appeared in the text that Cashgar, -which erroneously fills up so large a part of the country eastward of -Budukhshan, really exists as a small district near Peshawur. - -[27] The whole of the altitudes have been determined from the boiling -point of water in thermometers carefully examined and compared, -reckoning each degree roughly to be of the value of 600 feet. - -[28] Dundan-shikun. - -[29] I observe that the Emperor Baber mentions this fact. - -[30] The rest of the lines recommend Herat as the place of evening -prayer; Bagdad for that at the hour of sleep; and Nishapoor for that at -sunrise. - -[31] “If I could but captivate the heart of that Toorkee girl of -Shiraz--I would give in exchange for the black mole of her cheek all -the riches of Samarcand and Bokhara.” - -[32] The Uzbeks themselves believe the Kalmuks and Kutghun Uzbeks one -tribe. In their native seats, a colony desiring to migrate took the -name of “Kutghurn,” which means, “we go;” and the greater portion which -remained were afterwards called “Kalmuk,” which signifies, “we stop:” -such, at least, is the popular belief and tale of the Uzbeks. - -[33] Kizzak, or Cossack. - -[34] Holcus sorghum. - -[35] I am in possession of this curious work, which Shah Shooja himself -did me the honour of presenting. - -[36] A khurwar is 700 lbs. English. - -[37] See the MSS. to which I have alluded. - -[38] This person has been lately seized by Abbas Meerza, and deprived -of his power. - -[39] The capabilities of this river have not been here over-rated; a -mission lately sent down it by the Governor-General, under Captain -Wade, has verified the facts above recorded. - -[40] Seven Pounds. - -[41] A gold solidus of the Lower Empire was also found at Khoju oban, -of rude fabrication; it is either of Marcianus, or more probably -Mauricius: inscription, DN MAVRC..TIb PP AVG.; on the reverse an angel -holding the cross and globe, with VICTORIA AVGGG, and below, CONOB. - -[42] By way of convenience to those who have not the power of reference -respecting the history of Bactria, I subjoin a catalogue of its kings, -according to the authority of Schlegel.--_Journal Asiatique_, 1828, p. -326. - - B.C. 255. Theodotus I. } - 243. Theodotus II. } - 220. Euthydemus of Magnesia.} Fixed historically by Strabo, &c. - - 195. Appollodotus Soter. { Alluded to by Plutarch, Trogus, - Menander Nikator. { and Arrian. Their coins prevalent - { in Baroach, A. D. 200. - - { On the authority of Visconti and - Heliocles Dikaios. { Mionnet, from a single medal. - - Demetrius. { Son of Euthydemus: doubtful if - { he reigned in Bactria. - - 181. Eucratides I. { Artemidorus calls him the “Great - { king.” - - 146. Eucratides II. { Murdered his father, and was - { himself slain. - - 125. Destruction of the empire by the Tartars and the Scythians - or Sacæ. - - -[43] Csoma’s Life of Sakya, M.S. - -[44] Orient. Mag. IV. 108. - -[45] See Col. Tod’s Coins, 11. 14.; Mr. Wilson’s Plates, figs. 1, 2. 6. -7.; and Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal, Plate II. figs. 17. -and 18. - -[46] See translation of portions of the Salsette and Ellora -inscriptions, by Major Wilford (Asiatic Researches, vol. xiv.); which -shows them all to refer by name to Sakya. Mr. A. Stirling (Asiatic -Researches, vol. xv. p. 314.) says of some similar inscriptions on the -_Udaya Giri_ hill in Orissa:--“The Brahmans refer the inscription, -with horror and disgust, to the time when the Buddhist doctrines -prevailed. I cannot, however, divest myself of the notion, that the -character has some connection with the ancient _Prakrit_; and I think -an explanation is to be looked for only from some of the learned of -the Jain sect.” What has become of the key to this and other ancient -Sanscrit alphabets, which Wilford says he fortunately discovered in the -possession of an ancient sage at Benares? - -[47] “Ce qui me parait la circonstance la plus remarquable dans ces -medailles, ce sont ces preuves du culte Brahmanique adopté par les rois -Tartares. Ils régnaient donc certainement sur des provinces où ce culte -était établi.”--_Journal Asiatique_, Nov. 1828. - - - - -Transcriber's Note - - -The following apparent errors have been corrected: - - -p vi "Khoochan" changed to "Koochan" - -p. xi "Recal" changed to "Recall" - -p. xii "Khan. His" changed to "Khan.--His" - -p. xv "Shawls--Indigo." changed to "Shawls.--Indigo." - -p. 4 "That, since" changed to "that, since" - -p. 69 "pass of Derbund" changed to "pass of Durbund" - -p. 86 "proud to" changed to "seemed proud to" - -p. 86 "seemed out on" changed to "out on" - -p. 165 "but in in winter" changed to "but in winter" - -p. 184 "a polation" changed to "a population" - -p. 186 "the the Oxus" changed to "the Oxus" - -p. 236 "Balk, his" changed to "Balkh, is" - -p. 238 "Kooosh" changed to "Koosh" - -p. 279 "describe" changed to "described" - -p. 353 "Kafirs" changed to "Kaffirs" - -p. 356 "the country." changed to "the country.”" - -p. 363 "Nusseir oollah" changed to "Nussier oollah" - -p. 386 "achievment" changed to "achievement" - -p. 458 "Bacrtian" changed to "Bactrian" - -p. 460 "ΒΛΣΙΛΕΥΣ" changed to "ΒΑΣΙΛΕΥΣ" - -p. 468 "we find “Hushca" changed to "we find Hushca" - -p. 471 "Ce qui me parait" changed to "“Ce qui me parait" - -p. 472 "19. 22," changed to "19, 22," - -p. 472 "23. 26," changed to "23, 26," - - -Inconsistent or archaic language has otherwise been kept as printed. - - -The following possible error has not been corrected: - -p. 285 besides a sons - - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS INTO BOKHARA (VOLUME 2 OF -3) *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for an eBook, except by following -the terms of the trademark license, including paying royalties for use -of the Project Gutenberg trademark. If you do not charge anything for -copies of this eBook, complying with the trademark license is very -easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose such as creation -of derivative works, reports, performances and research. Project -Gutenberg eBooks may be modified and printed and given away--you may -do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks not protected -by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the trademark -license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the -Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country other than the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work -on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the -phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where - you are located before using this eBook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project -Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg-tm License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format -other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain -Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works -provided that: - -* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation." - -* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm - works. - -* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the manager of -the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the Foundation as set -forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right -of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm - -Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non-profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, -Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up -to date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site -and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without -widespread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine-readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. |