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diff --git a/old/64203-0.txt b/old/64203-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 38cc15d..0000000 --- a/old/64203-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9706 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Pedestrian's Guide through North Wales, by -George John Bennett, Illustrated by Alfred Clint - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: The Pedestrian's Guide through North Wales - - -Author: George John Bennett - - - -Release Date: January 3, 2021 [eBook #64203] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PEDESTRIAN'S GUIDE THROUGH NORTH -WALES*** - - -Transcribed from the 1838 Henry Colburn edition by David Price. Many -thanks to Mold Library for allowing their copy to be consulted. - - [Picture: Caernarvonshire, from Anglesea] - - - - - - THE - PEDESTRIAN’S GUIDE - THROUGH - NORTH WALES. - - - A TOUR - PERFORMED IN 1837. - - BY - G. J. BENNETT, ESQ. - - WITH TWENTY ETCHINGS, - - BY A. CLINT. - - * * * * * - - LONDON: - HENRY COLBURN PUBLISHER, - 13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. - 1838. - - * * * * * - - LONDON: - SCHULZE AND CO., 13, POLAND STREET. - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS, &c. - - Page - 1 Caernarvonshire, from Anglesea. Title - 2 Chirk Castle. 68 - 3 Llangollen. 93 - 4 Font in the grounds of Plas Newydd. 99 - 5 Castle Dinas, Bran. 108 - 6 Valle Crucis Abbey. 121 - 7 Pillar of Eliseg. 128 - 8 Bala Lake. 155 - 9 Cader Idris, from the Bala Road. 171 - 10 Parliament House of Owen Glyndwr. 174 - 11 View from Carreg y Saeth. 209 - 12 Harlech Castle. 215 - 13 The Vale of Maentwrog. 219 - 14 The Raven Fall, near Maentwrog. 231 - 15 Pont Aber Glaslyn. 237 - 16 Snowdon, from the Pass of Llyn Gwynant. 251 - 17 Pass of Llanberis. 254 - 18 The Coffin of Leolinus Magnus. 319 - 19 Conway Castle. 325 - 20 Aber. 362 - WELSH MELODIES, ETC. - 21 Guide for the Pedestrian. 11 - 22 The Fairy’s Serenade. 109 - 23 Battle Song. 131 - 24 Jenny Davies. 143 - 25 Mountain Mary. 176 - 26 Dafydd ap Shenkin. 305 - 27 Farewell to North Wales. 384 - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. - Page -Preliminary observations—Preparations for a tour—Coach 11 -conversation—A breakfast and an American traveller—Route to -Birmingham—A dinner—Road to Wolverhampton—Eccentric -passengers—Lord Hill’s monument—Shrewsbury. - CHAPTER II. -Walk to Montford Bridge—The Severn—An agreeable 30 -companion—Delights of a Tourist—Histrionic -Ambition—Wittington—The Castle—The Church—Curious Epitaphs. - CHAPTER III. -Chirk—The Aqueduct—The Deserted, a legend—Description of 57 -Chirk Castle—Sketch—The Park—Legend of the enchanted -Stag—The Vale of Llangollen—Account of the Aqueduct called -Pont-y-Cysylltau—Stanzas for music—Llangollen—The Hand in -Hand—A view of the village. - CHAPTER IV. -Waking prospect—Plas Newydd and the grounds—Lines written 96 -at the font—Castle Dinas, Bran—Legend of Mick Mallow—View -of the Castle—Legend of the Minstrel Fay—Original -Air—Festival. - CHAPTER V. -Valle Crucis—The Abbey—Lines written in the ruins—A 121 -loquacious porteress—A view of the Abbey—The pillar of -Eliseg—A parting—Road to Corwen—Vale of the Dee—The musical -pedestrian—War song—Over the hills and far away—An -adventure—Corwen—The Church—College—Cross and Circle—Air -Llwyn-own—Route to Llandrillo—An old soldier and his -son—Village of Llandrillo—A fair—Vale of Edeyrnion—Arrival -at Bala. - CHAPTER VI. -Bala—The Lake—A Meeting of Magistrates—The 154 -Doctor—Rhewlas—Lines written at Rhewlas—Farewell to the -Bull’s Head—A Jolter—Llanthyn—Vale of Drwstynrnt—Legend of -handsome Hugh and the Fairy—Cader Idris—Dolgelley—Song -“Mountain Mary”—The Town Hall—Parliament House—St. Mary’s -Church—Inns—Angling Station, Doluwcheogryd—The Cataracts of -Rhaiadr Du and Pistyll y Cain—Nannau Park—Anecdote of Owen -Glyndwr and Howell Sele—Road to Barmouth—Arrival—Inns—A -Walk on the sands. - CHAPTER VII. -Description of Barmouth—Sketch of the Town—The 183 -Estuary—Friar’s Island—Dinas Gortin—Earl of -Richmond—Anecdote of the men of Ardudwy, and the men of -Denbighshire—Mostyn Hall—A pic-nic party—Llyn Cwm -Bychan—Carreg y Saeth—The Witch of Cwm Bychan—Legendary -Tale—Bwlch Tyddiad—A mountain ride and a regretful farewell - CHAPTER VIII. -Harlech—The Inn—The Castle—Anecdote of Dafydd ap Ivan ap 213 -Einion—Road to Maentwrog—View—A persevering Cobbler—The -Oakley Arms—Pleasures of Fly fishing—New Companions—Angling -Stations—An Adventure—Road to Tremadoc—Tan y Bwlch—Port -Madoc Breakwater and Mountain Scenery -described—Tremadoc—Tan yr Allt—Pont Aber Glas Llyn—Lines -written at the Bridge—Beddgelert—The Inn—Story of a -Pointer. - CHAPTER IX. -Departure from Beddgelert—Vortigern’s Hill—Snowdon—Llynn 246 -Gwynant—Lines written upon Llynn Gwynant—Gwrydd—Public -House—Lake Fishing—A Night Adventure—Pass of -Llanberis—Legend of the Giant’s Night-Cap—The Lakes—The -Castle of Dolbadarn and Legend—View of Llanberis. - CHAPTER X. -The church of Llanberis—Monumental inscriptions—Story of 280 -little John Closs—The Pellings—Capel Curig—Moel -Siabod—Castle of Dolwyddélan—Falls of Benclog—Llyn -Ogwen—Llyn Idwal—Story of Idwal—Route to Llanrwst—Falls of -Rhaiadr y Wennol—Bettws y Coed—The church—Monuments—Pont y -Pair—Ogo ap Shenkin, a Legend—Glee, “Shenkin was a noble -fellow!” - CHAPTER XI. -A Mistake—Road to Llanrwst—Gwydir Castle—Llanrwst Shaking 306 -Bridge—Inn—The Theatre—Town Hall—Free Schools—Alms -Houses—Rhaiadr y Parc Mawr—Llyn -Gierionydd—Taliesin—Trefriw—Slate Quarries—Conway—The -Suspension Bridge—The Castle—Local Customs—A -Phrenologist—Excursion to the Ormes’ Head—The Smuggler—The -Bump of _Order_. - CHAPTER XII. -Route to Aber—Penmaen Mawr—The pet Goat—Aber—Legend of 352 -Llywelyn and the Captive Knight—Road from Aber to -Bangor—Penrhyn Castle—Bangor—Inns—The Cathedral—The -Castle—Free Schools—The Menai Bridge—Song, Farewell to -North Wales, air, Ar Hyd y Nos—Conclusion -Appendix 375 - - - - -PREFACE. - - -THE Author’s object in offering to the Public the following pages is, -that all who have a desire to examine the beauties of Welsh scenery may -also have an opportunity of seeing the most _interesting_ portion of it -in a tour which will not occupy more than a month. The route described -in this volume presents a variety of pictures which can scarcely be -equalled, and certainly not surpassed, in any quarter of the globe. It -is true there are hills higher far than any in Snowdonia, and valleys -more extensive; but, while we are astonished at a description of the -enormous magnitude of the Asiatic and American mountains, and the noble -rivers, and sea-like lakes of the latter, let us take into our -consideration which is the most desirable country to explore; that in -which nature’s prodigies are so extensive that we can neither ascend the -eminences, ford the rivers, nor view the opposite shores of the extensive -lakes; or _that_ where mountains may be scaled with ease, from the -summits of which, a series of glorious panoramas burst upon the -eye,—wherein the valleys, glens and wild ravines present an endless -variety of sublimity and beauty, and the loud torrent and the waterfall -pour forth their melody of never tiring sweetness, to delight the ear? - -Seas must be crossed, and miles of dreary and uninteresting country -traversed, in wandering from one grand object to another in the _former_; -while, in the route here represented to the Public,—within the reach of -all—repose and admiration charm the heart by turns, in the rich fertile -valleys, lofty and wood-clad hills, or heather-mantled mountains, of -North Wales. The traveller is likewise insured the comfort of a good -inn, where he may rest his wearied limbs, after a day’s ramble in -whatever part of the district he chooses to select for his excursion; and -the healthy and active should decidedly make _use_ of their _limbs_, to -bear them through this tour, in preference to the more easy and luxurious -vehicle, and even to the equestrian mode of conveyance. A good -horsewoman may venture into the dark defiles, or climb the craggy heights -upon the ponys, which are always in readiness at the inns for that -purpose; but between a man and his steed there will most assuredly be a -strong feeling of sympathy created by a conviction, that the one is a -most unnecessary burthen to the other. - -For the etchings which illustrate this little work, the Author is -indebted to his friend Mr. Alfred Clint, who accompanied him in his -second tour, and whose judicious selection of subjects has given a value -to the volume, which, without his aid, would have been deficient in its -principal ornaments. There is no composition in any of the -illustrations; they are the scenes of nature reflected in the mirror of -art. Not a mountain or valley, grey ruin or waterfall, but is -represented as it really _is_; and for the best reason in the world, viz. -that any attempt to improve upon the subjects, would destroy their real -beauty. - -The peasantry are simple, honest, and obliging; and, as they trudge -along, a spirit of freedom sparkles in their eyes, and seems to animate -every action of their unfettered limbs. Though their fare is humble, -they enjoy it with an appetite to which the bracing air of their hills, -and their happy ignorance of luxuries, give an enviable zest. -Drunkenness is a vice almost unknown among these primitive mountaineers: -milk is their common beverage, oatmeal cakes, and potatoes, with a -plentiful supply of trout from their native streams, form their chief -summer food; while, in winter, dry salted beef and mutton serve to -satisfy their utmost wishes. - - “Though poor the peasant’s hut, his feasts tho’ small, - He sees his little lot the lot of all. - - * * * * * - - Dear is that shed to which his soul conforms, - And dear that hill which lifts him to the storms. - And, as a child, when scaring sounds molest, - Clings close and closer to the mother’s breast, - So the loud torrent, and the whirlwind’s roar, - But bind him to his native mountains more.” - - - - -DIRECTIONS -TO THOSE UNACQUAINTED WITH THE WELSH LANGUAGE. - - -A knowledge of the Welsh alphabet is indispensable to those who are -desirous of correctly pronouncing the necessary questions and answers -that transpire upon the road. The names of places must effectually -puzzle any tourist, who is not acquainted with the peculiar sound of each -letter, particularly where there are many consonants in a word. In order -therefore to aid the traveller in Wales, I have selected the following -rules. - -In the Welsh alphabet there are no mutes; and all letters that are -circumflex must be pronounced long, as - -Bôn like the English Bone. -Bin, as Been. -C, as Can, but never soft as in City. -Ch, is pronounced as the Greek χ. -Dd, as the English Th in theme. -F, as V in English. -Ff, as F and double F in English. -G, as G in good, but never soft as in genial. -I, as I in king but never as in fire. -Ll, as L aspirated. -Th, as in thought. -U, as I in the English words bliss, kiss &c. -W, as double O in good, wood. -Y, as U in burn, but in the last syllable of a word; and in all -monosyllables except Y, Ydd, Ym, Yn, Yr, Ys, Fy, Dy, Myn, it is like I in -Sin. - - * * * * * - -By attending to these rules, the stranger will easily make himself -understood by the peasantry, and on his tours, in enquiring for any place -to which he may be journeying. - - - -GLOSSARY. - - -Ap, or Ab, is prefixed to proper names, and signifies, the son of. -Aber, the fall of one water into another, a confluence. -Am, about, around. -Ar, upon, or bordering upon. -Avon, or Afon, a river. -Ban, high, lofty, tall. -Bach, little, small. -Bedd, a grave, a sepulchre. -Bettws, a station between hill and vale. -Blaen, a point or end. -Bôd, a residence. -Braich, a branch. -Bron, the breast or slope of a hill. -Bryn, a hill, a mount. -Bychan, little. -Bylch, a gap or pass. -Cader, a chair. -Caer, a city. -Capel, a chapel. -Carn, a heap. -Carnedd, a heap of stones. -Careg, a stone. -Castell, a castle, fortress. -Cil, (pronounced keel) a retreat, a recess. -Clawdd, a hedge, a dyke. -Clogwyn, a precipice. -Coed, a wood. -Cors, a bog, a fen. -Craig, a rock or craig. -Croes, a cross. -Cym, a valley or glen. -Dinas, a fort, a city, or a fortified place. -Dol, a meadow or dale in the bend of the river. -Drws, a doorway, a pass. -Dû, black. -Dwfr or Dwr, water. -Dyffryn, a valley. -Eglwys, a church. -Ffordd, away, a road a passage. -Ffynnon, a well, a spring. -Garth, a hill bending round. -Glàn, a brink or shore. -Glâs, bluish or greyish green. -Glyn, a glen or valley through which a river runs. -Gwern, a watery meadow. -Gwydd, a wood. -Gwyn, white, fair. -Llan, a church, a smooth area, an inclosure. -Llwyn, a grove. -Maen, a stone. -Mawr, great. -Moel, a smooth conical hill. -Mynydd, a mountain. -Nant, a ravine, a brook. -Newydd, new, fresh. -Pant, a hollow or valley. -Pistyll, a spout, a cataract. -Plas, a hall or palace. -Plwyf, a parish. -Pont, a bridge. -Porth, a ferry, a port, a gateway. -Pwll, a pit or pool. -Rhaiadr, a cataract. -Rhiw, an ascent. -Ryhd, a ford. -Sarn, a causeway, a pavement. -Tal, the front or head, also tall. -Traeth, a sand or shore. -Tre or Tref, a home, a town. -Twr, a tower. -Ty, a house. -Y, the, of. -Yn, in, at, into. -Ynys, an island. -Ystrad, a vale, a dale. -Yspytty, a hospital, an almshouse. - - * * * * * - -By referring to this short Glossary, the tourist will find no difficulty -in understanding the meanings of the different names given to the -different places through which he will have to pass. - - - -INTERJECTIONS. - - -As there are many interjectional adverbs made use of in the following -pages, a glossary of them might prove useful. - -Aro! stop! -Dacw! yonder! -Dyna, dyna! there, there. -Dyt, dyt! hold, hold! -Fwrz! away! -Gwae, woe. -Hai how! heigho! -Hwnt! avaunt! -O dyn! oh dear! -Oia! oh pray! -Oio! hear me! -Truan bac! poor little thing! -Truan hyny! poor thing, that it was! -Twt! pshaw! -Wela, wela! well, well! -Ysywaeth! the more the pity! - - - - -GUIDE FOR THE PEDESTRIAN. - - ROUTE. COUNTIES. MILES. PRINCIPAL INNS. OBJECTS OF ANGLING - INTEREST. STATIONS. -From LONDON to Salop 154 The The House of The Severn. -SHREWSBURY, Talbot—Raven— Industry— - Lion, and the Military - Fox. Depôt—Lord - Hill’s - Column—Quarry - Walk—and the - Castle. -thence to WITTINGTON Do. 16 The Castle, and The Severn. - the Church. -CHIRK Denbighshire 6 The Hand. The Castle—The The Ceiriog. - Aqueduct and - Vale. -LLANGOLLEN Do. 7 The Hand—King’s Bran—Church—Plas The Dee—to - Head, and Royal Newydd—Pont Corwen or - Oak. Cysylltan. Overton. -CORWEN Merionethshire 10 The Owen The Between Corwen - Glyndwr. Church—Cross— and Llan St. - Glyndwys Ffraid bridge. - Seat—Vale of - Edeyrnion. -BALA Do. 12 White Lion & The Lake—Aran Bala lake and - Bull’s Head. Fowddwy—Arrenig pool, halfway up - Vawr—Arrenig the Arrenig - Vach. Vach—R. Dee. -DOLGELLEY Do. 18 Golden Nannau Lanvachreth 3½ - Lion—Angel, & Park—Kymmer miles—Dol-y- - Ship. Abbey—County gammed, on the - gaol—Parliament Avon, 4 - House of Owen miles—Llyn - Glyndwr—The Cregnan, S.W. 4 - Falls of Rhaiadr miles—Llyn - Mawddach—Rhaiadr Gader, 1½ m—Llyn - Du, and Griew, 5 - Pistyll-y-Cain. m—Tal-y-llyn, on - Cader Idris, 6 - m. -BARMOUTH Do. 10 Commercial Inn, Old Town—Sarn Llyn Raithlyn, - and Cors-y-gedol Badric—Cors-y- near - Arms. gedol. Trawsfynydd— - Arthog Chapel, 3 - m. distant—Llyn - Bodlyn, 4 M. - from - Barmouth—Llyn - Teddin and Llyn - Gierw, near the - town. -HARLECH Do. 10 The Blue Lion. The Castle—Cwm Llanvihangel, on - Bychan—The Dwyryd, 5 - Cromlech, 2 m—Llanbedr on - miles S. in a the Bychan, 3 - farm called m—Llyn-y-Vedw, - Gwern Einion—A Llyn Eiddaw, - Druidical circle Llyn - between the Farm Glyn—Llyn-y-cwm - and Harlech. Bychan—Llyn - Trewyn. -MAENTWROG Do. 10 Maentwrog Inn, Tan-y-Bwlch— Llyn Llanyrch, - and Oakley Arms. Slate Quarries, 3½ m (good - 5 m—Rhaiadr Du trout)— - and Raven fall, Cwmmorthin Lake - 2 m—Festiniog, 3 (in the pass of - m—Falls of Cwmmorthin) 4½ - Cynfall—Roman m—Llyn Mannot, 6 - encampment m (large - (Toman Mur) 3 m trout)—Llyn - from Festiniog. Murionion, 6 - m—Llyn Tackwyn. - 3 m. -TREMADOC Caernarvonshire. 10½ Madoc Arms. The Breakwater Angling from - at Port Tremadoc. - Madoc—The - Church. -BEDDGELERT Do. 10½ The Goat. Gelert’s Nant - grave—The chair Gwynnant—Llyn - of Rhys Gocho’r’ Dinas—Cwm - Ryri—Pont Aber Llan—Llyn - Glas Llyn. Gwynnant—Llyn - Llydan. -LLANBERIS Do. 14 The Victoria, Dolbadarn Upper and lower - and Snowdonia. Castle—The lakes (bad - Church—The Tomb sport)—Llyn Cwm - of little John Dwythog, 2 - Closs—Well of m—Llyn Llydan - St. (on Snowdon), 5 - Peris—Lakes— m—Glaslyn, on - Pass. the W. of - Snowdon. -CAPEL CURIG Do. 10 Capel Curig Inn. Rhaiadr-y-Wennol - waterfall—Moel-Siabod— - Dolwyddelan - Castle, 5 m. -BETTWS-Y-COED Do. 5 Pont-y-pair— Lake Ogwen—Nant - Shenkin’s Francon—Llyn - Cave—Church— Idwal—R. Llugwy. - Monument to - Davyd Goch. -LLANRWST Denbighshire. 5 The Eagles. The - Bridge—Gwydir - Castle—The - Church—Gwydir - Chapel. -CONWAY Caernarvonshire. 12 The Castle, and The Bettws-y-Coed, 3 - the Newborough Castle—Church— m—Trevriw, 2 ½ - Arms. Curious m—Dol-garrog, 4 - monuments—Plas m—Llanbedr, 5 - Mawr—Ormes-head. m—Dolwyddelan, 8 - m—Tal-y-Llyn, - and Llyn - Crafnant, near - Llanrwst. -ABER-GWYNGREGYN Do. 9 The Bulkley The Waterfall Llyn Ogwen—Llyn - Arms. and Glen—Penmaen Idwal, and Ogwen - Mawr. river. -BANGOR Do. 5½ The Penrhyn Penrhyn The fishing - Arms—The Castle—Slate stations as - Castle—the quarries— above. - Liverpool Arms, Caenarvon—Menai - and Albion. Bridge—Beaumaris - and - Castle—Penmon - Monastery—Plas - Newydd—Baron - Hill—Puffin - Island, and the - Cathedral. - -CHAPTER I. - - -Preliminary observations—Preparations for a tour—Coach conversation—A -breakfast and an American traveller—Route to Birmingham—A dinner—Road to -Wolverhampton—Eccentric passengers—Lord Hill’s monument—Shrewsbury. - - “Like brethren now do Welshmen still agree - In as much love as any men alive; - The friendship there and concord that I see - I doe compare to bees in honey hive, - Which keep in swarme, and hold together still, - Yet gladly showe to stranger great good will; - A courteous kinde of love in every place - A man may finde, in simple people’s face.” - - CHURCHYARD. - -VARIOUS, as the features of human nature, are the sources of human -happiness. Some derive their choicest pleasure from historical accounts -of men who lived in by-gone ages, and in re-creating events that have -long since been engulphed in the abyss of time,—breaking down the -barriers of intervening years, and mingling, in idea, with those who were -once deemed the glorious of the earth, who now lie blended with its -grossest atoms, or are confounded with the purer elements. Some, -parching with the thirst of knowledge, seek to slake the fever of their -minds with most laborious research; explore the utmost regions of the -globe to find a shorter marine passage; or pierce into its depths to seek -for treasures which only exist in their heated fancies. The vast ocean -is fathomed to satisfy the ruling principle of their natures,—curiosity; -and the realms of air traversed with the same motive to insure the -universally desired result, self-gratification. While some, leaving the -elements to perform the destined changes, are willing to agree with the -poet, who in the warmth of his philanthropy exclaims: - - “The proper study of mankind is man;” - -and among this class of beings the author of these pages may be ranked, -although he willingly confesses nature has the power of charming him in -her most minute as in her most stupendous works, from the curious and -confined instinct of the ant and of the bee to the wonderful and -exhaustless energies of the human mind, - - “That source - Whence learning, virtue, wisdom, all things flow.” - -The court, the city, and the country, present an endless variety of -subjects for contemplation; and the latter being the region of delight to -those whose business confines them to the metropolis for the winter -months, the author of this volume is anxious to be thought a useful and -an amusing companion to such tourists who, in pursuit of health and the -charms of nature, may wander - - “In the Welsh vales ’mid mountains high,” - -where the sublime and beautiful present themselves at every turn to -captivate the eye, and ruddy health colours the smiling faces of every -peasant girl and shepherd boy, from Chirk to Holyhead. - -To a mind capable of estimating fine scenery, how delightful are the -hurry and bustle which usually take place on the morning of departure, in -fond expectation of realizing the anticipated pleasure of viewing those -beauties of nature the imagination has but weakly painted! The sun is -scarcely sooner up than the traveller; and, although the coach in which -he is to be rolled some hundred and fifty miles will not start for -perhaps three hours, his anxiety preponderates over the now slighted -comforts of his bed of down, and with an agile leap he quits his restless -pillow, and hastily despatching the business of his toilet, with his -heart beating high, and his knapsack already stuffed with three shirts, -as many pairs of stockings, guide books, and as few other necessaries as -may be, in order to make his walking wardrobe as light as possible, he -prepares to “take the road.” If a disciple of old Isaac Walton and -Cotton, he will not fail to have his book of flies, lines, reel, &c., and -a light fly rod to carry in his hand, and for which he is sure to have -use whenever he feels inclined for piscatory pastime on his tour. So -stocked and provided, he bids defiance to the evils of life; and may -exclaim with the poet - - “Warly cares and warly men - May a’ gae tapsalteeree O!” - -“Do you ride upon the box, sir?” - -“To be sure I do—paid that fellow to keep it for me.” - -“All right, sir: mount if you please,—not a minute to spare. All right -behind there?” - -“All right.” - -“Hold fast, sir!—let ’em go, Joey! Blow avay, Bill,” then addressing the -near wheeler; “eh, vot, you’re at your tantarums again! I’ll vork ’em -out of you before ve gets to the end of the stage. Do you know, sir, it -vas all along of this here varmint that ve’d the upset last veek.” - -“Indeed! we’ve a pleasant prospect before us, then.” - -“Oh there’s no fear, sir; I vas never upset in my life, and I’ve been -upon this here road for five and twenty years come next Christmas; but it -vas all along of a gemman as had the reins in hand, ven poor Ned Burkem -just vent in for his mornins, at the King’s Arms—yonder you may see the -sign just afore us; ve alvays stops there for our mornins, case you see, -sir, the landlord vas von of us, and his daughter is a main pretty girl. -I suppose, sir, you’ve no objection to look at a pretty girl, ha, ha!” - -“None in the world, James.” - -“Veil, here ve are; and now, sir, if you’ll just lay hold of the ribbons -for von minute, I’ll leave ’em this here parcel.” - -To this proposition I agreed, with the proviso that one ostler should -hold the tricksey mare, and another stand at the leaders’ heads, having -no wish for a repetition of poor old Ned Burkem’s mishap. The parcel -being delivered, the half pint of purl swallowed, and James again seated, -like ruddy Phœbus, on the coach box, the horses were put in motion to the -tune of eleven miles an hour. - -“Very pretty travelling this, Mr. —, I beg your pardon, sir, but your -name is —” - -“Yes, you’re right, James.” - -“Veil, I thought I vas, sir; it’s not always that I can remember names, -sir; for you must know that, although I’ve drove some thousands in my -time, just seated where you are, sir, at this present, I don’t think I -could remember one half of their names.” - -“Very surprising indeed, for a man of your observation.” - -“Lord bless you, sir, vy my observation is nothing to Squire —, that’s -his house you see on your left; they say he can see the Eclipse (coach) -in the moon. But they can’t tool ’em along as ve does here, I take it, -sir. Go along, snarler!” - -James’s tongue and the coach continued in rapid progress; and in due time -we reached the Sportsman Inn at Whetstone, when the passengers had an -opportunity of displaying the extraordinary effects produced by the -morning air upon fasting stomachs. A lady and her daughter, who were -inside passengers, did ample justice to the fare; the latter, in -particular, payed away at the cold fowl and ham in a manner truly -surprising. “Coach ready, ladies,” cried James; and up jumped mother and -pet, with mouths full of fowl, toast, etc., which they washed down, -unmasticated, with the dregs of their tea; and in a minute were again -seated inside the coach, opposite to two gentlemen, one rather a -corpulent man, with “spectacles on nose,” the other a gay young citizen, -who was to leave us at Barnet. - -The coach had not started above five minutes, before fragrant wreaths of -smoke were making their escape out of the window, and delighting the -outside passengers with the refreshing odour: for this we were indebted -to the stout gentleman before mentioned, who having lately arrived from -America, could not be expected to understand the civilized customs of -travellers in England, and who inconsiderately concluded that his cigar -was as agreeable to the ladies as to himself. It proved otherwise, -however: the cold fowl lay uneasy, and the ham seemed to object to being -smoked. This, both ladies endeavoured to intimate to their opposite -neighbour, by sundry wry faces and beseeching looks. At length, his -cigar being nearly finished, the smoker could no longer pretend blindness -to the distressing condition to which he had reduced his companions—and -he then asked “if they had any objection to smoking?” - -The elderly lady, whose politeness had extended to the utmost limits of -her nature, with a forced smile replied (while the ashy paleness of her -face spoke the tumult that was stirring within,) “Not the—slightest, sir, -if you have no objection to—to—” open the other window, she would have -said, but the daughter could no longer support the motion of the coach -and the fumes of tobacco, and, to the horror of the American gentleman, -he instantly found himself in no very enviable situation. - -He started from his seat, and almost lifted the roof of the coach off by -the concussion between it and his head. “No objection, madam!” cried he -in great wrath; “but I wish you to understand that I have a very great -objection to this, I calculate!—Here, coachman! stop! let me get out! -will you?” - -Coachee complied, and the ladies were doubly relieved. - -“I’m in a pretty considerable pickle, I’m thinking!” said he, as he -seated himself behind us on the roof. - -The more agreeable rattle of the wheels prevented our hearing more of his -complaints, and we arrived at Barnet. - -About a mile and a half from Barnet, upon the right, is the estate of Mr. -Byng, and a little further, on the left, that of Mr. Trotter. The town -of St. Albans with its ancient Abbey, which creates pleasing ideas of -bygone times, of monks and friars, “fat pullets and clouted cream,” was -passed through; and descending the hill, on leaving the town, fresh -objects became interesting to the eye. - -After leaving Gorham Bury, Earl Verulam’s seat on the left, we came to -Market Street and passed a delightful residence called Market Cell, the -property of a Mr. Johnson, and beyond Sir F. P. Turner’s on the right, -and Mr. Duncombe’s on the left, are places that make a man desirous of -possessing £10,000 per annum. - -Dunstable is rattled through next, and then comes _Fenny Stratford_, -_Stony Stratford_, _Easton Neston_, and then _Lord Pomfret’s_ noble -domain. _Towcester_ comes next upon the list, and _Weedon Barracks_, -where a view of the rail road presents itself. - -Then the coach enters Dunchurch, changing horses at the Dun Inn; where -being pretty well roasted in the hot sun, some of the passengers -endeavoured to obtain a draught of something to moisten their parched -throats; but if the garrison of Weedon had discharged all their powder in -firing an alarm, and the bells of Dunchurch had joined in the uproar, I -do not think a single soul would have answered the summons in the Dun -Inn. We were obliged therefore to ascend again, with throats unquenched. - -From Dunchurch the coach passes through a noble avenue of elms and firs -which stretches for six miles beyond the village, certainly the finest -avenue, in extent, I ever beheld; and the size of the trees is not the -least interesting object, spreading their luxuriant branches until they -form almost a continuous bower. - -Coventry sends forth her store of ragged urchins to see the London coach -come in, and peeping Tom, in effigy, looks as inquisitive as peeping Tom -himself could have done. - -_Aylesley Church_ is a very beautiful structure; and a little beyond is -Packington Hall, the Mansion of Lord Aylesford. - -At Bucknell, another view of the railroad is obtained; and at length, to -the infinite joy of hungry passengers, Birmingham, and dinner, appear in -the distance. - -We drew up to the inn. I was the only passenger who entered the dining -room. The coach was to stop for twenty minutes; and after waiting ten -with the patience of a stoic, the waiter entered with a calf’s head, -cold, over which some boiling water had been poured, by way of sauce. I -am fond of a mealy potatoe, and some were placed before me thoroughly -saturated; a cauliflower, boiled in the scented waters of fifty other -vegetables, completely scared away my appetite, and fully answered the -purposes both of landlord and coachman. - -The latter at that moment popping his head in at the door, “Coach ready, -sir, if you please!” - -“I’m glad of it; what’s to pay, my girl?” - -“Three and sixpence for dinner, sir, if you please, and threepence for -ale.” - - “Experience makes fools wise,” - -I exclaimed, as with an empty stomach I reseated myself upon the box. - -“St—st—go along! a fine town this, sir!” - -“Is it?” - -“Don’t you think so, sir? - -“I never was in such a half starved, hungry looking place in my life,” -cried I, at that time feeling the cravings of nature strong within me, -and fancying I saw the ghost of a London cook shop, flitting before my -eyes. - -The road from Birmingham to Shrewsbury, if travelled by night, gives a -stranger a glowing idea of the “fiery regions,” never mentioned to “ears -polite.” No description can come up to the flaming reality exhibited in -the appearance of this country; hundreds of hills of burning coke blaze -in all directions, and the air is scarcely endurable from the gaseous -qualities of the smoke, which sweeps across the road in huge columns, -almost suffocating every passenger who ventures upon that dismal tract. - -But increasing horrors gather round the devoted tourist as he advances -further, on the road to Wolverhampton: thousands of indistinct forms move -in the glare of the distant fires, or flit, like a legion of black -devils, over the burning coals; sometimes standing in bold relief before -the blazing chimneys of fifty or sixty steam engines, that send up bursts -of flame glaring in all directions; and imagination might picture -thousands of fallen angels, tossing their flaming brands above their -heads, in frantic sport and direful revelry. - -Groups of grinning imps sat scattered near the road side, whose yellings -made the welkin ring again as we passed by them. Roaring Bacchanals -filled the air with their drunken shouts; and withered hags held out -their bony hands for alms, to be expended in liquid fire for their -throats. - -Behind me, on the roof of the coach, were two most eccentric travellers -who had taken their places at Birmingham for Shrewsbury. The night was -cold, and one, whom I discovered to be of the Emerald Isle, had, with -national foresight, provided himself with a dacent drop of “the mountain -dew,” just to keep the wind off his stomach; and next to him was seated a -demure looking personage, who by his peculiar dialect proved to be a son -of Scotia— - - “Land of the mountain and the flood.” - -“By the honor of Erin!” exclaimed the first, “I’m not at all surprised to -find you such a silent companion, for it’s a mighty cowld night, and your -conversation must nat’rally freeze before its spoken. Will you take a -drop of comfort to thaw it, my darlint?” at the same time presenting a -flask of potheen to the party he addressed. - -It must be observed that this sprig of shamrock was dressed in a blue -jacket, with a light summer waistcoat, and a pair of duck trowsers, which -suited admirably the mid-day ride, but were inefficient to exclude the -cold night air. But I suppose he went, like the generality of his -countrymen, upon the philosophical principle, that “a light heart and a -thin pair of breeches goes thorough the world, my brave boys.” His -companion was dressed in a velvet shooting jacket, thick plush trowsers, -and waistcoat of the same, over which he wore a heavy box coat, which was -encased in a cloth cloak of unusual dimensions: over this was a -mackintosh cape, and his head was enveloped in a fur cap, fastened by an -Indian silk handkerchief tied round the chin—and altogether he seemed to -defy wind and weather. - -This bundle of comfort, pulling down for an instant the neckerchief, -which was also rolled round the aperture of speech, emphatically stated -that he had no need of the offer. - -“For ye ken,” said he, “that I’m a prudent mon, and never venture outside -o’ the coach, unless I have a’ the comforts o’ the inside about me; -there’s ne’er a mon, sir, shut up in that unhealthy box, ye may ken, but -is caulder than mysel; and I guess, fra’ the garments on your person, -that ye’re no quite sae warm.” - -“Why thin if I was, I’d be thinking myself nearer to a certain personage -than I have any inclination to be for the next half century.” - -“But ye ken that extremes meet; and I think by that calculation ye may be -nearer to the friend ye mention than I am, seeing that I am but just -comfortable, and ye are near the freezing point.” - -Having uttered this sarcasm upon his shivering companion, the canny Scot -replaced the muffler over his lips, as a signal for silence, while the -Irishman, taking another draught from his pocket pistol, sang a stanza of -Erin go bragh, and consoled himself with striking a light for his cigar, -from which he sent clouds of smoke, which made our travelling convenience -resemble, in the gloom, a steam carriage, as it flew along, with nearly -as great rapidity; the lighted end serving, as a warming pan to his nose, -which thus illuminated, seemed not much unlike a blue light, such as -mariners burn for signals of distress. - -“I beg your pardon, Mr. Boxer,” said he, touching me on the shoulder, -“but are you a politician?” - -“Why, to say the truth, sir,” I replied, “I interfere as little as -possible with what, I conceive, wiser heads than mine are greatly -puzzled.” - -“Why that’s true, sure enough,” continued he, “but may be you’ve heard of -the—holloa!” - -Here he was interrupted by his bulky companion, whom a lurch of the coach -had flung heavily upon him as he was leaning forward to reach my ear. -The Scotchman had fallen asleep, and effectually prevented his neighbour -from regaining his sitting posture, by the weight of his body and its -envelopes. - -“Blood an’ ’ounds, man, what are ye about?” roared my friend in the thin -inexpressibles. “Sure I might as well be porter to Atlas himself, and -carry his load. Will you get up, if you please? By the shade of -O’Donahue, but I’ll create a connexion betwixt your nose and the lighted -end of my cigar, if you don’t let me up.” - -A sonorous grunt, which drowned the rattle of the coach wheels, was the -only reply to this appeal, and Paddy being unacquainted with the -language, immediately put his threat into execution. I have said before -it was a cold night, and Sandy, who naturally enough started, at the -application of the cigar to his proboscis, from his ideal world to a -dreamy consciousness of his real situation, placing his hand on the -injured part, exclaimed, still half bewildered, “Eh! that’s vera true, -indeed. It’s a cauld night, and I verily believe that my nose is -frost-bitten. I maun pit t’other shawl round it;” saying which he -dragged one from his pocket, and was completely enveloped, apparently to -suffocation. - -“Why then, I’ve heard of salamanders, but Scotland must be mighty cauld -since you left it,” said my thinly clad fellow traveller, when a half -smothered voice spoke through the rolls of shawls and silk handkerchiefs. -“Do you find yoursel’ sae hot in my company?” - -The castinet-like sounds of the Irishman’s teeth was the only reply to -this question, and silence ensued. - -“What column is that we are approaching, coachman?” - -“Why that, sir, is a pillar.” - -“Thank ye; but what was it placed there for?” - -“Why, sir, it was put there by subscription, as a compliment to Lord -Hill.” - -“Oh, indeed!” - -The column is of the Doric order, rising from a base. The angles are -ornamented with lions couchant, and the height of the pillar is 132 feet; -upon its summit was placed a figure which old Push-along assured me was a -fine likeness of old Rowley; it was erected in 1814. - -“Blow the horn, Ned, will you!” And now, rattling over stones, through -streets crowded with youthful idlers assembled to catch a sight of the -new comers, we rapidly approached the inn. In a moment more we were at -the gate of the Lion. - -A good supper and a comfortable bed made amends for the bad dinner and -the cold ride, and in the morning I arose much refreshed, and sallied -forth to view the town. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - -Walk to Montford Bridge—The Severn—An agreeable companion—Delights of a -Tourist—Histrionic Ambition—Wittington—The Castle—The Church—Curious -Epitaphs. - - “Oh Wittington, among thy towers - Pleas’d did my early childhood stray, - Bask’d on thy walls in sunny hours - And pull’d thy moss and pluck’d thy flowers - Full many a truant day.” - - FITZ-GWARINE. - -AFTER breakfasting at the inn, I, like the honorable Dick Dowlass, with -my wardrobe on my back, and a light heart, proceeded on the road to -Chirk. - -The Severn, to the right, winded beautifully towards the ancient town I -left behind. Bees hummed—birds sang—and blossoms sent forth their -fragrance to delight the traveller as he gaily trudged “the footpath -way.” Cheerfulness was above, beneath, around me, and in my heart. I -paused upon the bridge at Montford, to take a lingering farewell of the -sweet flowing Severn, its wooded banks and meadows gay; and was about to -commence a sublime soliloquy, when I was accosted by an elderly personage -in a straw hat, fustian shooting coat, knee-breeches, gaiters and shoes. -He had a stout cudgel in his hand, and a knapsack, more capacious than -mine, strapped across his shoulders. He appeared to be about fifty-five -years of age, and being furnished like myself, it struck me that a -passing traveller might naturally enough take us for father and son. - -Fortunately we were both pursuing the same route, and a desultory -dialogue commenced with the never failing observation: - -“A fine morning, sir.” - -“Very.” - -“A noble river this, sir?” - -“Beautiful.” - -“A great admirer of the charms of nature, I presume, sir?” - -“An enthusiastic one.” - -“You’re for the Welsh vales, I suppose?” - -“And mountains high!” I exclaimed, warming to my loquacious companion. - - “In the Welsh vales ’mid mountains high,” - -sang he, in a hearty, round-toned voice, with which I chimed in, and we -were the best friends, on a sudden. - -There certainly is no society so interesting as that picked up by the -tourist, who leaves with contempt the starched formalities of a great -city behind him, and walks forth, unencumbered by care, to enjoy the -society of mankind in its varied and unsophisticated nature. Every -person we meet affords us information and delight; for a kindred spirit -animates almost every individual whom you may chance to encounter in -countries remarkable for beauties of scenery, and especially in a region -like North Wales, where inns of the best kind are situated at the most -convenient points, and the foot passenger is treated with as much respect -as a lord in his carriage with four post horses. The landlords of inns -here, think that a man may make the proper use of his legs without being -a beggar; and that the costume of a pedestrian may cover the form of a -gentleman. And this philanthropic conception contributes to form that -happy combination, civil hosts and merry travellers. - -There is no want of society, nor any difficulty in selecting that with -which you are best pleased, for every evening brings in fresh comers from -various quarters to the different places of rest and refreshment. The -exchange of information respecting routes, the different adventures of -the day, the peculiar feelings displayed in their recital, and -countenances lit up with pleasure, give a degree of animation to the -evening, never to be equalled in the brilliant drawing-room, the blaze of -which seems to put out the eyes of reason, - - “And men are—what they name not to themselves, - And trust not to each other.” - -I soon discovered that my companion was a traveller of no common -information; that he was a collector of legends, an antiquarian, and a -geologist; and congratulated myself upon meeting with one who, as he gave -me to understand, was intimately acquainted with a variety of -circumstances, not generally known, which had taken place in “days of -yore,” upon the very ground we were about to traverse, and which he had -frequently visited before. - -He had been an actor in his youth, and as the scenery between Mountford -Bridge and the village of Wittington has little to engage the attention, -I will here relate a portion of his early history, with which he amused -me during our journey. - - - -HISTRIONIC AMBITION. - - -It was a foggy morning when Triptolemus,—for so I shall designate my new -acquaintance,—who had unfortunately been deeply bitten by a mad actor, -arose, feverish from his sleepless pillow, to awaken the cocks of the -surrounding neighbourhood with the loud rattle of his histrionic tongue. -He had, with some difficulty, prevailed upon the manager of the theatre -to permit him to make his appearance on the stage, and the character -selected for his attempt was Richmond—the gallant Richmond! - -In the centre of the filthy town of — stands an ancient castle, situated -upon a lofty hill, which is now turned into a county jail. There was -around it formerly a deep moat, which having for many years been dried -up, is now converted into pleasure gardens for the corporation. From the -top of the hill there was, at this time, an opening, much like a trap -door, where commenced a descent by winding steps, leading to the gardens -beneath, and to some gates made in the iron railings that encompassed the -moat upon the other side. - -Upon the summit of the hill, Triptolemus walked with all the dignity of -an English baron. The ancient fortress, that frowned above him, gave -additional fire to his excited imagination; and, as he spoke of knights -and fellows in arms, and mused of war, banners, and crop ear’d steeds, -the present peaceful times were dead to him, and nothing lived within his -gallant thoughts but those whose bones have long since whitened in the -dust. - -Triptolemus had walked round, and round again, about the distance of half -a mile, spouting Shakespeare to “the unconscious wind,” when, as he was -about to take “round the third,” instead of looking at the earth, his -inspired glance was directed to the sky; and at the instant he exclaimed, -“thus far into the bowels of the land,” he vanished into the earth -through the before mentioned trap door! and awakening from his surprize, -he found himself half smothered in a bed of manure, at the bottom of the -steps.—When he had in some degree recovered from his alarm, and -ascertained that his person had escaped injury, his first reflection was -upon the fall of Lucifer, - - “From night to morn—from morn to dewy eve, - A summer’s day!” - -He then looked round him and fancied himself in Johnson’s happy valley, -himself the prince, and, like him, discontented with his lot, when he was -suddenly aroused to a sense of his real situation by the pointed -application of a pitchfork, unceremoniously handled by a sturdy boor, who -saluted him with, “Where the devil didst thee come from?” His indignant -spirit now gave vent to its uncontrollable fury, in a torrent of blank -verse! He felt that, like Hamlet, he could - - “Do such deeds - As hell itself would quake to look upon.” - -But, like Posthumous, he was doubtful which to select. His soul was in -arms!—and the thrice valiant embryo Richmond exclaimed, - - “Thrice is he arm’d that hath his quarrel just; - And he but naked, tho’ lock’d up in steel, - Whose conscience with injustice is corrupted.” - -“I fell into this damned place through your neglect in leaving the trap -door open, you bloody and devouring boar,”—eyeing him all the while with -a glance that seemed to say, “If I thought you wholesome, I’d turn -cannibal.” - -The bumkin, however, took no further notice of it than to assure him, if -he did not presently take to his heels, he would toss him out on the -prongs of his fork. - -O! what a field for fancy did this threat open to his susceptible mind! -The tattered hat of the unceremonious gardener was converted into a -coronet of snakes that reared their threatening crests and hissed -furiously at the astonished hero. His ruddy face assumed the Gorgon’s -look, turning him almost into stone. The weapon in his hand grew fiery -red, and for a foot there seemed a cloven hoof. - -An attempted application of the torturing steel however, gave motion to -his limbs;—away he scampered up the steep ascent, not daring to turn a -solitary glance behind, until he reached the spot from whence he fell. - -This accident conjured up a train of reflections upon the vanity of human -wishes! “Alas!” exclaimed he, “it is but a few minutes since I fancied -myself a hero at the head of a victorious army, before which thousands -would turn and fly, or grimly bite the dust; and now I find myself a -wretched thing! routed by a base born hind with a muck fork in his hand! -Oh! vile disgrace! I only wish that fellow may see me on the boards -to-morrow night—I’ll frown him into a liquid.” - -Upon the night of this eventful morning the stage-struck Triptolemus had -very unquiet dreams; his head was filled, he said, with a chaotic mass of -indistinct and indescribable objects. The last thought he had while -awake was how he should look when dressed as the gallant Richmond;—and -having settled that point to his own satisfaction, he resigned himself to - - “Sweet Nature’s second course.” - -He waves aloft his glittering steel—he spurs his coal black charger to -the field.—Forward! he cries—and the hostile ranks advance in terrible -array, inspired by their heroic leader! All then becomes hubbub, turmoil -and confusion, higglety pigglety, up and down, slash away work. He meets -the tyrant king—fiercely they struggle for the mastery—slap bang go their -battle axes; when suddenly a number of shadowy forms, with blood-red -cabbage-heads, encircle the enfuriated pair, yelling and dancing at the -white-rose king;—the gallant Richmond staggers beneath the prowess of his -vigorous opponent, and half believes the field is lost, when through the -spectre group a headless horseman breaks with furious speed.—’Tis -Buckingham!—he waves his gory head aloft in his red hand, and as Tydides -whirled the fragment of a rock upon his foe, even with such fury flung -the shade his head, full upon the visage of his fated Richard;—he -falls—the shadows vanish with loud cries of joy! when suddenly a dreadful -blow is dealt upon the temples of the conquering Richmond;—the chains of -sleep are broken, and Triptolemus lies stretched upon the floor. - -He arose confused; he pondered upon his dream, rubbed his bruised -forehead, and began conclusions from the visions of the night. These -proving satisfactory, he descended to the breakfast parlour, inwardly -exclaiming, - - “May good digestion wait on appetite.” - -The rehearsal in the morning gave additional confidence, the manager -having pronounced it a very promising specimen of his ability. - -Night came—and he was at his post three hours before his presence would -be required upon the stage. His hair, of which he had a great profusion, -was twisted into innumerable curls by a one-eyed frizzeur who received a -payment of twelve pence per night from the manager for decorating the -heads of his talented performers; his limbs were cased in the warlike -habiliments of the 15th century, which (with the trifling inconvenience, -occasioned by their being made for a person of nearly double his -dimensions some twenty years before, and the few dilapidations they had -received from the numberless falls, thwacks, rents, etc. during their -long and faithful servitude) gave him the appearance of a warrior of some -personal endowments. The helmet was peculiarly formed, resembling that -worn in the 14th century; for this appendage to the son of Mars had been -neglected until the very last moment, when it was supposed to be -impossible to procure one; but Triptolemus, ever fertile in resources, -seized upon a shining tin saucepan, in which the Duke of Buckingham had -brought some barley water to the theatre for the purpose of clearing his -voice, emptied its contents, and having divested it of its handle, made -of it an admirable completion to his costume. At the end of the first -act, he walked, with all the self possession of a veteran stager, into an -apartment called the green-room, but which exhibited a clear face of -white-wash, emblematic of those who frequented its chaste precincts. It -was furnished with chairs, stools, and a huge family sofa, evidently the -work of the “olden time.” This seemed a seat suited to Triptolemus, -puffed out as he was with the pride of his appearance; but unfortunately -the light comedian, when playing the part of Doricourt, fell so heavily -upon it, in the mad scene, that he made a fatal breach in the bottom, -which as yet had not undergone a repair. King Henry the sixth (a short, -stout, pompous man, who never moved but one arm in acting, and that with -the exact motion of a pump handle) was seated on one side of the fire -place, in an altitude of deep thought. Triptolemus remembered his dream, -and was astonished at the close resemblance between the red cabbage head -of the shadow and the rubicund visage of the portly personage in the -chimney corner. His surprise was the greater for that he had not met -this gentleman at the rehearsal, he having sent an apology for his -absence, being hotly engaged (as he termed it) in _making his benefit_, -i.e. paying his respects to the different taverns in the town, where his -merry associates congregated to drink porter, smoke tobacco, and -distribute as many tickets as an insinuating address and consummate -assurance would enable them to dispose of amongst their boon companions. - -The fourth act is over; and Triptolemus experiences a strange sensation -rising from the bottom of his abdomen and gradually spreading itself over -his whole body!—he feels less valiant than when first he donned the -shining helmet (alias saucepan) and fastened the glittering falchion to -his mailed side. Ting a ring ting! goes the prompter’s bell! -Triptolemus was trembling at his post. The music ceases—the curtain -rises—the martial music is played loudly behind the scenes, and the -audience with breathless anxiety await the entrance of the dauntless -hero, the brave Earl of Richmond. - -The trumpeters have almost split their cheeks,—the troops march on, two -and two—the Earl of Oxford then advances, next Sir James Blunt, and then -Sir Walter Herbert. Triptolemus who had been advised to appear last, and -with a rush to “take the natives by surprise,” as it is termed in -theatrical phraseology, now darted forward to the footlights, “swift as -an arrow from the Tartar bow.” The applause was deafening, and made him -fancy that the gods were at war above him; nor was he much out in his -conceit, for a chimney sweeper who had edged himself into the centre of -the gallery at that moment, caused such a commotion amongst the -goddesses, that they assisted, with their screams, the general uproar, -and shouts and cat calls “shook the pond’rous roof.” This state of -commotion was too violent to last, and at length silence was obtained, -and the hero commenced— - - “Thus far into the bowels of the land—” - -Here the figure of the uncivil gardener met his eyes, seated in the front -row of the pit, and grinning like a Scotch terrier with a hair-lip. He -made a full stop at this apparition! “Have we marched on,” came the word -from the prompter—“Have we marched on,”—echoed Oxford. But all was mist -before Richmond’s eyes, indignation was in his heart and silence upon his -tongue. Unable to utter a word more, with a flourish of his truncheon he -made a furious exit. “Have we marched off,” said the gallant Blunt—and -stalked off with the whole army (six in number) after his heroic leader. -The scene changed for Richard’s entrance.—Shame and fury battledoor’d our -hero about with unmerciful rapidity behind the scenes! He split his -wooden truncheon upon the scull of an unlucky lamplighter who stood in -his way, and then the call boy’s awful voice was heard bidding him -prepare for his second scene. This he managed to get through tolerably -well, taking especial care to avoid another glance at the gardener’s -fatal countenance. - -All went on smoothly enough, until the scene where Richard rushes on the -stage in the midst of alarums, crying out. “What ho! young Richmond ho!” -Here, as ill luck would have it, Richmond could not find his _fighting -sword_, and his confusion was so great, when Richard again roared out, -“’Tis Richard calls!” Richmond rebellowed from behind the scenes, “Call -and be d—d,” thinking the actor was taking an unwarrantable liberty in -calling for him before so many people in such an authoritative style. - -_Richard_. “I say come forth, and singly face me.” - -_Richmond_, (behind) “What the devil’s the use of my coming, when I can’t -find my sword?” - -At length, the combatants met, Richmond having picked up a powerful -weapon, instead of the short, blunt and harmless sword intended for the -encounter. It was keen, long, and pointed, like a lancet—a terrible -weapon in unpractised hands. - -_Richard_. “Do you remember the cuts?” (in an undertone, with doubting -fear). - -_Richmond_. “Oh, d—n the cuts!” at the same time dealing a blow that -laid open the shin of the crook backed tyrant, who, thinking it better to -die at once in jest, than to be killed outright in earnest, fell down -exclaiming, “Perdition catch thy arm! you’ve cut my leg open!” - -_Richmond_. “Upon my soul, I could’nt help it!” - -_Richard_. “But oh—! the vast renown thou hast acquired—” - -This was too much for the audience to bear—“their visible muscles -unmasterly grew,” and the champions were mutually discomposed. - -_Richmond_. “What the devil are they laughing at?” - -_Richard_. “At you to be sure, ‘in conquering Richard.’” - -Here another burst of merriment broke from the spectators, and -Triptolemus, turning his head, to check, with a high tragedy look, their -ill timed mirth, beheld, to his horror and dismay, the inveterate -gardener standing upon the front bench of the pit, waving his arms like -the sails of a windmill, and who no sooner caught a full view of his -countenance than he roared out, “I’m blest if it bea’nt he that I turned -up wi’ my pitch fork out of the muck heap!” - -“All’s over!” exclaimed Richard, and gave up the ghost, with his back -turned to the audience, which created a fresh peal of laughter, groans -and hisses. Richmond, shocked at the un-Cesarian position of the -monarch, strove to obtain silence, while he spoke the tag, by turning him -over with his face to the footlights—which he did with his foot, placing -Richard’s nose within half an inch of the burning oil, who grinned his -disapprobation of such usage, till the audience shrieked with mirth. - -“Ring down the curtain, for God’s sake!” shrieked the manager. - -“Stop till I’ve spoken the tag!” cried Richmond. - -“Ring down for the sake of my nose,” bawled the corpse. Ting a ring -ting! went the prompter’s bell, and down fell the curtain, leaving one -half of Richard’s body in view of the laughter-weeping spectators, which -was at last dragged by the heels from their sight by the indignant -Richmond, vowing, he never would again act with so diabolical a -_Richard_. - - * * * * * - -This story, which amused me exceedingly, was during the recital often -interrupted by my hearty bursts of laughter, and beguiled the time -admirably, until we arrived at a miserable place called _New Inn_, where -we refreshed ourselves with a glass of ale, and proceeded on our journey. - -Branching off from the Oswestry road, to the right, we pursued our way to -Wittington, beguiling the time with anecdote and song, light hearts and -heels carrying us along the road like things of air. Nothing worthy of -notice took place until we reached the village of Wittington, and there -the first objects that attracted our mutual attention, were two brick -houses, perfectly plain in their exterior, upon the front of the first of -which was written, in prodigious characters, _Search the Scriptures_, and -upon the second, _Remember thou keep holy the Sabbath day_, with -underneath, _Morrison’s pills sold here_. - -The village is beautifully intersected with trees, and the houses are -examples of neatness and simplicity. The people look cheerful and -contented; and every shrub or flower which here profusely expands, seems -proudly to rejoice and flourish in this charming retreat. - -A walk through this village will make the tourist thoroughly acquainted, -in his own belief, with the persons who inhabit it, although he never -heard the history of one of them, from the rector to the tinker. The -first portrait that rises in his imagination is the venerable curate, -with contentment beaming in his mild eyes, his silver locks flowing over -his well-brushed thread-bare coat, with snow-white neck-cloth, mended -small clothes, black hose and polished shoes, visiting the cottage of -some invalid—a lovely girl, scarce sixteen, the rose of the village, who -had long been stretched upon a bed of sickness, but now blessed with -returning health, seated at the door, the fresh evening air playing with -her fair locks, the woodbine clustering over her head, a slight tinge of -vermilion spreading on her cheeks, her eyes upraised in pious gratitude -to heaven, and to him who prayed beside her, and for her, morning and -evening, and who now with grateful heart holds up his hands to the -Creator, in thankfulness for her convalescence. - -The next object is the village surgeon; a busy, merry, bustling, prying, -talkative, little gentleman, who amuses one patient with all the scandal -he has been able to pick up about another; but, notwithstanding, a most -important person, and people feign illness for the gratification his -visits communicate; constant in his morning calls from house to house, he -continues to pick up all the flying rumours of the day; and at night is, -of course, the object looked up to, in all parties, as the oracle, in -whom all the secrets of the village are deposited, while he is cautious -not to commit himself, by imprudent exposures. - -Then comes the lawyer, with snuff-coloured riding coat with brass -buttons, top-booted, and spurred, who does very well for himself, by -_doing_ his neighbours in a professional way. - -Then come the ladies, who are of course all nature, no art, sweetness, -simplicity, and all that; but as I am not going to write a volume upon -rural life, I will just give a short description of - - WITTINGTON CASTLE. - - “In ancient days, of high renown, - Not always did yon castle frown - With ivy crested brow; - Nor were its walls with moss embrowned, - Nor hung the lanky weeds around - That fringe its ruins now.” - - FITZ-GWARINE. - -In the year 843, when Roderick the Great was King of Wales, a British -noble, named Ynyr ap Cadfarch, built the Castle of Wittington. He was -succeeded by his son Tudor Trevor, whose descendants possessed it for -many generations; and many families at this day trace their origin to -him. - -At the Conquest, Wittington became the property of Pain Peveril, who -dying without issue, it was seized by Roger, Earl of Shrewsbury, and -passed into the hands of Hugh, his son, who was succeeded by his brother -Robert; but he being defeated by Henry I, the castle was restored to the -Peverils, in the person of Sir William Peveril, who was a great warrior, -and is said to have miraculously recovered from a (supposed) _mortal -wound_ by eating the shield of a wild boar. He had a daughter named -Mellet, whose exceeding beauty attracted many suitors; but, being of -Amazonian mind, she declared she would marry none but the knight who -proved himself best and bravest in the field. Her father published this -declaration, and promised the Castle of Wittington as her dower. The -trial took place at the Peak in Derbyshire, and Guarine de Metz, who had -a shield of silver, and a peacock crest, overcame all his rivals, and -obtained the beautiful Mellet. His posterity, for nine generations, -assumed the name of Fulk, a race of heroes who performed extraordinary -feats of arms, and for a full account of which the reader is referred to -the history of Wittington, a little book of forty-one pages, by William -Davies, L.M.W.S., Head Master of Caernarven School. - -The ninth, and last Fulk Fitz Gwarine, died here in his minority, in the -reign of Henry IV, and his sister Elizabeth, the heiress to the estates, -married Richard Hankfdd, who left his possessions to his only daughter -Thomasine, who married Sir William Bourchire, brother to Henry, the first -Earl of Essex; and the title of Lord Fitz Warine was given to Sir -William, in consequence of his marriage. - -John, the third in descent from him, exchanged Wittington with Henry VIII -for other landed property. This John was the first Earl of Bath, and his -family retained the name of Fitz-Warren until the race became extinct, -which took place at the death of Henry, the fifth Earl of Bath. This -place was presented by Elizabeth, to Henry Grey Duke of Suffolk, who -fortified it in consequence of several crimes imputed to him by the bigot -Mary, who granted it to Fitz-Alan, the last Earl of Arundel, who -mortgaged it to a number of London citizens, and William Albany, the -chief amongst them was appointed sole possessor of it, and by the -marriage of whose grand daughter it fell into the hands of Thomas Lloyd -Aston Esq. in whose family it now remains. - -The castle underwent fortification soon after its original establishment; -and must have been alternately in the hands of the Welsh and Saxons in -these wars. It is well supplied with spring water, and the moats, and -entrenchments surrounding the castle are still discernible. The keep was -fortified with five round towers, each 40 feet in diameter and 100 in -height, the walls being 12 feet in thickness.—All are now in ruins. - -In 1809, a well was discovered in the Keep, at the bottom of which was -found a pair of iron fetters for the legs, and a jug, stags’ heads, -swords, a head curiously carved, and a number of richly gilt glass -bottles. In the trenches there are growing some very fine tall wych -trees. The castle is situated in the midst of fertile meadows; and a -rapid stream, which a mile above takes a subterranean course, here breaks -into light again, amidst fringing poplars, and entering the moat, -encompasses the walls, which are richly festooned with ivy, and adorned -with wild flowers and woodbines. It there enters the Perry, in the -meadows below, which were formerly an extensive lake, and the ancient -fosses and entrenchments may be traced to where the lake terminated, at a -surprising distance westward, beyond the castle. - -The church is a rectory, and was originally designed as a chapel to the -castle. It is dedicated to St. John the Baptist. The body of the church -was rebuilt in 1806, and in the register are the following curious -epitaphs: - - March 13, 1766, died - THOMAS EVANS, - Parish Clerke, Aged 72. - - Old Stanhold’s lines or Vicar of Bray. - Which he tuned best, ’twas hard to say. - - SAMUEL PEATE, - Of Wittington Castle, died - Aged 84. - - Here lies Governor Peate, - Whom no man did hate. - At the age of fourscore, - And four years more. - He pretended to wrestle - With Death for his castle, - But was soon out of breath, - And surrendered to Death, - Who away did him take - At the eve of our wake, - One morn about seven, - To keep wake in Heaven. - - ANDREW WILLIAMS - was - Born A.D 1692, and died April 18, 1776. - Aged 84. - Of which time he lived under - The Aston family, as decoy man, 60 years. - - Here lies the decoy man, who lived like an otter, - Dividing his time betwixt land and water. - His hide he oft soaked in the waters of Perry, - Whilst Aston old beer his spirits kept cherry. - Amphibious his trim, death was puzzled they say - How to dust to reduce such well moistened clay, - So death turned decoy man, and decoyed him to land, - Where he fixed his abode till quite dried to the hand. - He then found him fitting for crumbling to dust, - So here he lies mouldering, as you and I must. - -In this lovely village, we put up at a small inn, the Crown, to take -luncheon, which was served with much civility—cold meat, a cream salad, -and a capital Cheshire cheese, with the very best of Shropshire ale. The -name of the host I have forgotten, but it is the first inn on the left on -entering the village from Shrewsbury. It has a delightful garden -attached to it, with grottos and arbours; roses and woodbines distribute -their fragrance in prodigal gratuity, and the _tout ensemble_ gives an -admirable idea of fairy land. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - -Chirk—The Aqueduct—The Deserted, a legend—Description of Chirk -Castle—Sketch—The Park—Legend of the enchanted Stag—The Vale of -Llangollen—Account of the Aqueduct called Pont-y-Cyssyltau—Stanzas for -music—Llangollen—The Hand in Hand—A view of the village. - - “In Cambria’s noon of story, - Ere bright she set in glory, - The brave and great in princely state - All hail’d Chirk Castle walls. - With splendid arms returning, - The flaring moonbeams burning, - Mid armour’s clang the clarions rang, - And searched the sounding halls.” - - SONG BY F. M. DOVASTON, A.M. - -A PLEASANT walk of six miles brought us to Chirk; agreeably situated upon -the northern bank of the river Ceriog, which divides England from Wales. -The village church is dedicated to St. Mary, and is an impropriation -belonging to Valle Crucis Abbey, and contains some monuments erected to -the memory of the members of the Chirk families. The most interesting is -that of the famous Sir Thomas Myddleton. The church-yard is planted with -yew trees, and the Hand Inn is a very comfortable house of entertainment. - -The aqueduct is the great _lion_ of this place; consisting of ten arches, -the piers of which are sixty-five feet high. The Ellesmere canal is -continued across the valley by this beautiful specimen of art, then -enters a tunnel 220 yards long; emerging from which it proceeds on its -course through the parish, and then enters another tunnel, which having -traversed, its waters are transported over the vale of the Dee by the -stupendous aqueduct of Pont-y-Cysylltau. The village of Chirk is seven -miles from Llangollen, and five from Oswestry, from Knaton six, and from -London 171. - -“Upon this spot,” said my amusing companion, “a legend was repeated to -me, which I thought rather amusing; and, as you say you are a collector -of strange stories, I will relate it to you as we pass along, with as -much accuracy as my memory will permit.” - - - -THE DESERTED. - - -Mary Griffith was a tall, raw-boned, bouncing girl, whose skin had felt -the influence of nineteen summers: with red ropy hair, which fell in -mop-like luxuriance about her face and back, partially hiding two -gooseberry eyes, that looked, or seemed to look, in opposite directions. -Roger ap Morgan was a stout, sturdy, hard-working peasant: and once, -while under the influence of his master’s strong harvest ale, bestowed on -Mary such tender melting words, as had never before been addressed to her -beauty, and which her unaccustomed ear drank with astonishment and -delight. She greedily banqueted on the honey of his tongue, and in short -was never so pleased in her life before. - -It was remarked, that from this night Mary and Roger were more intimate -than ever; and they were therefore looked upon as a couple shortly to be -united in the bands of matrimony. - -Mary’s charms, however, were not of a nature to be unappreciated by -others; and Roger’s friends were exceedingly forward in praising her -various perfections, and more especially the beauty of her eyes and face, -and the silky softness of her auburn hair, three fibres of which were -sufficient to have made an exceeding good twine of tolerable strength. - -Roger bore all these bursts of admiration without the slightest tinge of -jealousy, and even sometimes, with a good humoured laugh, joined in the -jests of his companions. But there is such a thing as over fondness in -adoring woman: and Roger began to discover, that if Mary would only love -him half as much as she did, he might perhaps have a far greater liking -for her than he had; but unfortunately Mary knew no measure in her love. -She vowed he should marry her; Roger swore heartily he would not. At -length, it became apparent that Mary had yielded up not only her heart -but her honour, also, to the too insidious and fascinating Roger. His -ingratitude, in refusing to keep his word, and make an honest woman of -her, sank deep into her heart. She resolved, however, not to let him off -so easily; and determined, if he persisted in denying his person, she -would at least have some of his goods and chattels. - -At this period, a number of baronial laws, although dormant, might still -be enforced on occasion, and amongst them was one which furnished Mary -with a promising prospect of recompense. It decreed, that in cases of -seduction, the injured fair, on making application to the presiding -magistrate, was entitled to remuneration by submitting to the following -ordeal:—The tail of a three years old bull, the property of the seducer, -being well shaven, greased and introduced through a wicker door, if the -applicant could, by so treacherous a handle, detain the animal for a -certain period with both hands, while two men goaded it to escape, it -became hers, by right of conquest, in satisfaction for her lost virtue; -and, in case of failure, she forfeited all further claim, and was -rewarded for her attempt with so much of the grease and soap as remained -in her hands. - -Women know no medium in the master-passion: “Where most they love, there -most they hate when slighted:”—and so with Molly. All nature seemed to -change: the beautiful valley no longer heard the soft murmurings of -Roger’s “love breathed vows;” the waters of the Ceriog flowed on without -a rival sound; and Molly vowed vengeance amid their peaceful banks, where -once she swore eternal love and constancy. - -One morning after a long expostulation, with her inconstant, she summoned -him before the magistrate of the district, and, accompanied by her -friends, demanded the ordeal, which was the right, from time immemorial, -of the victims of seduction and desertion. The magistrate, being a lover -of old laws and customs, and also somewhat of a humorist, readily acceded -to her wishes, and the following morning was appointed for the -accomplishment of her vengeance, verifying the Welsh proverb—“Gnawd -rhygas wedi rhysere.” Common is extreme hate after extreme fondness. - -This was woful intelligence for Roger, whose farming stock consisted of -an only cow, which was sentenced to be substituted for the _bull_, which -the original act specified should be liable to confiscation. This cow -was the chief source of his livelihood; her butter furnished him with the -means of procuring clothes, and other necessaries, and the skimmed milk, -a pleasant beverage to wash down his vegetable fare—for animal food was a -stranger to the table of Roger, as it was indeed to almost all the -peasantry of the country, except upon days of rejoicing, viz. marriages -and funerals, when friends and relations clubbed together to furnish a -sumptuous meal for the assembled guests. Still, however, he resolved to -hazard this severe loss, rather than be encumbered with a wife, whose -industry and affection were but a poor compensation for the defects of -her person and conversation. - -On the following day, the peaceful inhabitants of this lovely spot were -startled from their various occupations by a loud shout which issued from -the thick woods of the vale, and then - - “There rose so wild a yell - From out yon dark and hollow dell, - As all the fiends from heaven that fell - Had pealed the banner cry of hell.” - -The clamour was raised by the revilings of Roger’s friends against Mary, -and Mary’s friends against Roger, as the object of interest (Roger’s cow) -approached the dwelling of the deceived and neglected fair one, who -mounted astride upon its back, turned her fierce glances or benignant -smiles, upon her enemies or friends, as they alternately hooted and -hurrahed her. - -Mary’s mother, an ancient gammer, whose sun-tanned skin seemed, as -Shakspeare has it, capable of - - “Keeping out water a long while,” - -armed with a branch of tough ash, was urging the progress of the beast, -and at every push she made, a yell of indignation burst from the opposite -party, which was answered by a shout of exultation from the friends of -Mary. At length the barber, one Gryffyd, was called on to lend his aid, -which he did, in a masterly manner by lathering, and shaving the beast’s -tail of every hair that adorned it, from the insertion to the tuft, and -afterwards greasing and soaping it thoroughly. Mary eyed it, meanwhile, -as though she longed to convert it into soup. - -These preparations being completed, Mary addressed her false-hearted -swain, and even then, generously offered to give up the chance if he -would repent and make her an honest woman. This noble proposition -excited murmurs of applause. But all in vain,—Roger remained inexorable. - -“Then may I never be married,” cried she, “if ever you take your cow home -again!” - -“That’s yet to be tried,” cried Roger. - -Molly then bared her brawny arms, and held up her ten fingers—as much as -to say, “Let her escape my grip if she can!”—and, with a countenance -flashing anger and resolution, she took her station at the wicket, -“screwed up to the sticking point,” and resolved to “stand the hazard of -the die.” - -With the grasp of a vice, she seized the pendant ornament; and now it was -pull cow, pull Molly!—for the two sturdy brothers of Roger belaboured the -animal most unmercifully. - -“Hold your own!” shrieked Mary’s mother. - -“Go it, you old devil!” cried the brothers of Roger, as they thrashed and -goaded the poor cow. Still with heroic firmness Mary kept her hold. - - “But who can rule the uncertain chance of war?” - -The period of detention had nearly arrived;—half a minute more, and Mary -would be victorious—her vengeance complete—and Roger quite undone!—when -lo! the tortured animal leaped suddenly from the wicket—and Mary, -wretched Mary!—fell upon her brawny back, with the cow’s tail extended in -her hands!—’Twas all the spoil her valiant attempt had left her!—Twisting -and capering, the beast was seen speeding its way to Roger’s well known -home;—and - - “Thus was she (poor Molly)! - Of cow, of virtue, everything, bereft.” - -It was rumoured that foul play had been committed by Roger’s brothers; -and that a stick, with a sharp instrument at the end of it, had caused -the catastrophe;—but, as there was no means of ascertaining the fact, the -affair dropped. - -A rustic bard, who had been hospitably received in Mary’s dwelling, -presented to her the following Lament, which he composed, in gratitude, -for her consolation. - - LAMENT. - - Oh mournful day! oh mournful day! - Base Roger’s cow has run away, - And left poor Molly to bewail - The sorrows she cannot _re-tail_. - - The grateful cabbage, greens, and leek - Her hands have reared, could they but speak, - Would thus hold converse with the ground, - Which daily her attention found. - - “Oh mother earth, how hard you get, - Since Molly’s left to pine and fret; - You drain our tops, our bottoms pinch, - We cannot grow another inch! - - “Your bed, so lately soft and warm, - To stony hardness you transform; - If ’tis for Molly this you do, - Oh think of leek and cabbage too!” - - “My children,” then said mother earth, - “I ever loved ye from your birth; - But know that I, as well as you, - Am doomed to pine and suffer too. - - “And if your bottoms feel uneasy, - ’Tis not from want of will to please ye; - And if your green tops droop and pine, - ’Tis not from any fault of mine. - - “For I am thirsting for a sup, - And Molly never stirs me up. - Forsaken love hath made her sore— - She cultivates the ground no more!” - - Oh mournful day! oh mournful day! - Base Roger’s cow has run away, - And left poor Molly to bewail - The sorrows she cannot _re-tail_! - - * * * * * - -After proceeding about a mile and a half on the Llangollen road, we -turned off, to the left, up a lane, which led us to the noble domain of -Mrs. Middleton Biddulph. - - - -CHIRK CASTLE - - -Is delightfully situated on the spacious domain, spreading over the -summit of, what would be deemed, by a southern, a lofty mountain, but -which is here only designated a hill, projecting from the range of Berwyn -mountains; and is well calculated to recall the stories of the days of -old, when flourished - - “The good old rule, the simple plan, - That they should take who have the power, - And they should keep who can.” - - [Picture: Chirk Castle] - -It is built of solid stone; and the ivy, mantling over the walls, gives -them an appearance of solemnity and grandeur, peculiarly interesting. It -is quadrangular, and is strengthened by five massive towers, one at each -corner, and the fifth projecting from the principal front, through which -is a lofty entrance into the court-yard, 165 feet in length, and 100 feet -in breadth, surrounded on every side by noble suites of apartments. The -picture gallery measures 100 feet in length, by twenty-two in breadth; -and contains some very excellent paintings, and several portraits of the -Middleton family. Amongst the latter is that of Sir Thomas Middleton, -who defended himself gallantly against the forces of Cromwell, and was -rewarded for his loyalty by Charles II, who granted him £30,000 for the -loss he had sustained, besides many valuable presents; amongst others, a -cabinet, which is shewn in the gallery, valued at £7,000, richly -ornamented with silver; in various compartments of which are paintings, -said to have been executed by Rubens. The monarch offered to elevate Sir -Thomas to the peerage, which he declined. - -The walls of the castle are eighteen feet in thickness; but sleeping and -other apartments have been cut into them, for the accommodation of the -family. - -The celebrated picture of Pystil Rhaidar, in the dining-room, shows that -noble waterfall tumbling into the _sea_, _where several ships are quietly -riding at anchor_. “Pystil Rhaidar,” _i.e._ “The spout of the Cataract,” -is considered the largest fall in Wales. In the valley of Mochnant, -about four miles from the village, the river falls over an almost -perpendicular rock, 240 feet high; thence rushing furiously under a -natural arch towards the bottom, it plunges into a deep black pool, -overhung with impervious shaggy wood. - -The story of the artist’s introducing the ocean with ships, is rather -curious. He was a foreigner, and but little acquainted with the English -language; and when he had completed the picture, one of the persons to -whom it was first shown observed, that “a few _sheep_ placed near the -foot of the fall would be a great improvement.” Misunderstanding _sheep_ -for _ship_, his amazement was extreme. He, however, took the picture to -his easel, and introduced _ships_ with the necessary element to float -them! A mistake so humorous determined the purchaser to allow of no -further alteration. - -The present building was completed in two years. The first stone being -laid in the year 1011, and in 1013 the castle frowned defiance to the -foe. - -It was built by Roger Mortimer, Earl of Wigmore, as a stronghold to -defend him from the just vengeance he had created by the murder of the -sons of Gryffydd ap Madoc, to whom he was appointed guardian, in -conjunction with John, Earl of Warren, in the hope of inheriting their -joint estates. Mortimer was to seize upon Nanheuddwg and Chirk, the -property of the youngest; and Warren upon the lands of Broomfield, Yale, -and Dinas Bran, belonging to the eldest. Travellers should not neglect -to visit this noble specimen of warlike architecture. Its picture -gallery and dungeon will, in their different styles, excite admiration. - -On the foundation of the present castle anciently stood Castle Crogen; -and the territory around bore the name of Tref-y-Waun, the property of -the lords of Dinas Bran, and continued in their possession up to the -death of Gryffydd ap Madoc, in the reign of Edward the First. - -The view from the highlands of the park is very extensive, commanding a -prospect of seventeen different counties. “The ground upon which we now -stand,” said my companion, “is remarkable for a melancholy circumstance, -which caused much grief and sorrow in the castle and its neighbourhood. -The story of Owen-ap-Mylton and Mary Fuller will perhaps interest you, as -it gave a name to this part of the estate, which it still retains, ‘The -Black Park.’” - - - -THE ENCHANTED STAG. - - -In a poor hut, which formerly stood upon the site of a few cottages, upon -the right of the lane leading to the castle from the high road, lived an -aged woman, who kept no society, and was considered, from her reserved -habits, drooping gait, and smoke-dried visage, to have strange dealings -with the Evil One; and upon whom the neighbours looked with fear and -trembling, whenever they met her in the evening twilight, or when - - “— the morn in russet mantle clad, - _Walk’d_ o’er the dew of yon high eastern hill.” - -Her patch of ground she cultivated without help from any; and no one knew -by what means she obtained clothing, as her garden stock only consisted -of a few eatables, which she could ill afford to part with for wool to -supply her spinning wheel; and yet her hose were good and clean, and her -woollen petticoat and russet gown well fitted to endure the weather’s -extremes. Strange stories were, however, reported respecting her, as it -was said she had come from the Devil’s Peak in Derbyshire, where she had -the credit of being a witch, and was nearly apprehended, upon a special -order from King James himself, by the officers of justice, who, when they -would have laid hands upon her, were astonished to find that they had -seized each other, she having vanished suddenly from betwixt them, and, -on the same day, it was said, appeared at Chirk Castle, offering to pay a -half year’s rent in advance for the little hut, which was then to let, by -the hedge-side in the lane, and which the steward accepted. She -regularly, afterwards paid in advance; but none could tell how she came -by the money, and the gossips reviled her as a limb of the Devil. This -absurd notion obtained for her the odium of having performed a principal -part in the following simple and melancholy tale. - -Owen, the ranger, was a tall, handsome, light-hearted, well-meaning lad, -as any in the country, much esteemed amongst his associates, and admired -by all the lasses from Chirk to Llangollen, from whom he had selected -Mary Fuller for his bride, a blue-eyed, flaxen-haired, pretty lass, who -lived as servant in the castle. - -Owen’s cottage, situated where now stands a handsome house, was a neat -building, consisting of four rooms; it was thatched, and the interior was -adorned with implements of the chase. It commanded a pleasant and -romantic prospect; the view down the valley being extremely picturesque. -Upon the trunk of an elm tree, the stump of which is almost all that time -has spared, are still to be traced, although faintly discernible, the -widely expanded initials, O. M. and M. F. which in former days were -doubtless deeply cut in its bark. It was the favourite tree of Owen and -Mary; and beneath its spreading branches they used to sit many a -moonlight evening, and whisper rustic vows of constancy and truth. - -One night, as they were walking, with arms clasped round each other’s -waist, near the hut of the old strange woman, they were surprised at -beholding her patting a noble stag, which had strayed from the park, and -which seemed fond of his new acquaintance, for it licked her face and -capered before her, and put its mouth close to her ear, while she -continued to pat him with her hand, and speak to him in a language -totally unknown to the peasantry. Owen, enraged at seeing one whom he -considered a witch, seducing one of his noblest stags from the park, -raised his cross-bow and shook his head at her, as if to intimate that he -would shoot her, should she dare to fondle the deer again. The old -beldame, frightened at his looks and gestures, retreated into her hut, -but shook her hand at him in a threatening manner; while the stag, -bounding suddenly from her door, made towards the park, like lightning, -and leaping the high fence, began to browze as usual on its native -pasture. Mary noticed the look and threatening action of the old woman -with fear, and for sometime they continued their walk in silence, neither -being anxious to _speak_ upon the subject, but both unable to _think_ of -any thing else. At length, when they reached the bottom of the lane, and -turned into the high road (which at this period was rough and only used -by horsemen and foot passengers who were dreadfully inconvenienced by the -state it was suffered to remain in), the cloud that hung over their -spirits began to disperse itself, and Owen, eager to resume the theme -which the appearance of the old woman had interrupted, again spoke of -their approaching marriage and the proposed arrangements he had formed. -Mary listened with attention, for only one day was to intervene before -the happy morning was to open on their joys. - -Owen informed her that his master had promised him the finest buck he -could kill in the park, and a couple of barrels of his old October, to -regale his friends and guests; he had likewise, he said, presented him -with a new bed and furniture, fit for a baron to lie upon, and large -enough for six to sleep in! Mary was happy, and Owen more animated, as -he spoke of the bounty of his gracious master. Mary, eager to enumerate -the presents she had received, began the catalogue of articles necessary -for their domestic economy and comfort, and had nearly ran through the -names of fifty by the time they arrived at her cottage door, which was -the signal for parting, and with many a kiss and promise of meeting again -early in the morning, the lovers separated. - -Owen went whistling along the road with a light heart, in fond -anticipation of future felicity, when suddenly, as he turned into the -dark lane, upon his way to his own lodge, he was startled by the -appearance of a dark form, with glaring eyes of fire, squatted upon the -trunk of an old alder tree, that had been blasted by the lightning a few -days before; and an unearthly _mew_! broke from its lips; and it spat a -quantity of saliva in his face. Hot, hot, and burning, seemed the filthy -rheum! A low growl increased his terrors; and a wild squall gave him the -speed of a deer, as he darted along the dark and narrow lane, his hair -standing on end. When he had reached the solitary’s door, he saw her -seated by her iron pot, stirring the contents with the handle of a broom, -while the glare from the crackling fagot shot frequent but transient -streams of light upon her time-worn visage. Being now more convinced -than ever that sorcery was at work, he redoubled his speed, and heated -with fright and fear, reached his welcome home, where he sank breathless -into a chair in the chimney corner. - -Strange dreams afflicted him during the night; and he arose at daybreak -feverish and unrefreshed. The usual summons at the door was given by his -fellow ranger, who, upon being admitted, presented him with a venison -pasty, on which he felt his courage and appetite rapidly returning. A -second friend brought a flagon of wine from the kind rector of the -village; a third brought a quarter of mountain lamb; a fourth the haunch -of a well fatted kid; and many other tokens of kindness from his -neighbours entirely banished the memory of the disagreeables of the -preceding night, and universal smiles and congratulations ushered in the -merry morning. - -Mary’s friends, meanwhile, were no less anxious to evince their regard -for her; and presents poured in from all parts of the neighbourhood, from -warm hearted and considerate well-wishers relations and acquaintances, in -consideration of the happy morrow which was to unite two beings -universally respected and beloved. There was a happy congregation in the -valley of Chirk, upon the evening previous to the appointed bridal morn. -The minstrel struck up his liveliest notes; the maidens danced joyfully; -and even grand-sires and their dames exerted themselves in the dance, -evincing that though time had somewhat burthened their bodies, their -“hearts were all light and merry.” - -Evening at length drew near to a close, and the shadows of the mountains -spreading over the peaceful valley, gave signal to depart. It was -pleasing to listen to the distant and retiring notes of the minstrel’s -harp, and the hum of laughter, echoed from the beetling cliff and dying -in the gorge of the Ceriog valley. Sometimes the wild halloo of the -mountaineer was heard shouting above the heads of those beneath; until at -length only two persons stood upon the sloping sides of the castle hill, -with fixed attention, looking in each others face, and with arms entwined -around their youthful forms. - -There are few who have not felt the power of love: but very few perhaps -have stood as these two stood, upon the slope of a dark mountain rock, -listening to the parting accents of their friends as they subsided into -silence, while beneath them roared the never quiet-waters, brawling -through rocky fragments, and shaking the wild tangled shrubs that grew -upon their banks; with limpid kisses pure and fresh. And there they -paused, and looked, and sighed, and loved, and murmured sweet words of -anticipated happiness; when suddenly the sky, serene before, was overcast -with clouds, and the wind rushed by them with a fury powerful as -unexpected. The night grew darker and darker, and they were nearly half -a league from Mary’s house. They cautiously pursued their way through -the dew-dripping heather, when presently a light appeared on the opposite -side of the valley; and shadowy forms were distinctly seen moving behind -it in slow procession. They had reached the spot where the aqueduct now -crosses the vale, within a short distance of Mary’s dwelling, but terror -prevented them from moving, while the procession with the corpse-light at -its head, glided along without a sound, becoming more distinct as it -approached within a hundred paces of the spot where the terrified lovers -stood almost breathless. Four shadowy, headless figures followed the -light, and were succeeded by a hearse, which moved without the aid of -horses or creature of any kind to draw or propel it forward, upon which -lay extended the form of a man, bloody, as newly slain. Owen fancied he -saw a resemblance of himself in that bloody corpse, and the increasing -weight of Mary upon his arm, assured him she had likewise recognised the -likeness, for she had fainted. With eyes that almost burst from their -sockets, he continued to gaze on, and saw, or thought he saw, many of his -kind friends weeping, in the long train that followed. The corpse-light -still advanced, and he distinctly saw it leading towards the churchyard -of the village, where it vanished amongst the old yew trees, and with it -the phantoms that made up the procession. - -Owen bore his senseless burthen to the cottage, where he acquainted her -mother that a sudden fright had caused her to be thus overcome, desiring -that she should be put to bed upon the instant, and that when she -recovered she might be persuaded, what she had seen was merely the -illusion of a dream; and he quitted the cottage with a heavy heart. - -The night was a sleepless one both to Mary and to her lover; but with the -rising beams of the morning their gloom dispersed; and, as the rays -gilded the mountain tops, they were both up, and waiting for the numerous -friends of both sexes, that usually, on such occasions, are anxious to be -foremost in paying their salutations. The bride’s cottage being of the -smallest class, Owen’s was agreed upon to be the place of rendezvous, and -a plentiful store of viands was ready for the guests to partake of at an -early hour. The gay friends of the preceding evening were seen decorated -in their holiday garments, fresh and fair as the cool breeze and the -sweetest wild flowers of their native hills, clustering together before -their cottages, and tripping in various groups towards Owen’s pleasant -dwelling. Eight o’clock in the morning was the time appointed for the -ceremony to take place in the little church of Chirk, and all were eager -to attend the young couple, and—to eat their breakfast, which on such -occasions was far from frugal. Owen’s relatives were all ready mounted -at his door, prepared for the wedding hunt, and, when he joined them, -away they galloped towards the cottage of Mary. She was seated upon her -favourite Merlin, surrounded by her friends, who set up a shout as Owen -and his party came in sight. The bridegroom having arrived, and made his -claim to Mary, he was refused; and then a mock fight took place between -the parties, and sundry thwacks upon the head were given and received in -sport. At length, the bride and her kinsmen started off at full speed in -the direction of Chirk Castle. The bridegroom following, worse mounted, -but eager in the pursuit, shouting for them to stop; until at last the -flying party having reached the park, they permitted Owen to overtake -them, according to the custom, who then led his bride to the cottage, -where everything was in readiness for their reception. - -The bride, habited in a snow white dress, with some white heath flowers -bound in her braided hair, was the admiration of all. Owen in his new -suit, made for the occasion, looked handsomer than ever. They danced -together upon the new mown grass, while Jordan, the minstrel, played his -blithest tunes. At length, the party sat down to the repast, and rustic -jests were given and returned with glee and good humour; when suddenly, -the bridegroom being called aside, Mary took that opportunity to steal -away, meaning to run off to the church, and laugh at Owen’s and his -friend’s perplexity at her absence, and their astonishment at finding her -at the church porch before them. - -She was soon missed; and, suspecting it was a trick to perplex them, away -the whole party ran in different directions in search of the runaway. - -Mary had nearly arrived at the old woman’s cottage when Owen descried -her. He had not forgotten the scene of the preceding night, and his -heart had some painful misgivings that all was not right when he first -missed his bride so suddenly from the breakfast table. Owen shouted and -shouted! but the more he exercised his lungs, the faster she made use of -her heels, when suddenly the “stag of six,” which he had seen the night -before, darted from the old woman’s cottage, and ran furiously at Mary, -who turned round and retraced her steps with fear and terror, but with -the speed of the wind. She flew past Owen, who endeavoured to stop the -deer, but all in vain. The interposing trees at times prevented the -animal from pursuing, by entangling his branches with the lower boughs; -but these impediments seemed only to redouble his fury when he again -released himself, and Owen had not yet come up with him, though Mary kept -the lead. Other friends now joined in the attempt to drive the creature -in another direction, and with hands joined they formed a barrier, -shouting and hallooing to frighten the stag as he approached the park; -but all in vain; he bounded on more furiously than before, scattering the -crowd in every direction. Owen at length overtook the furious stag, and -was just in time to succour Mary. His coat, which he had taken off in -the race, he dexterously managed to fling over the antlers of the brute, -which, falling over its eyes, for a minute confounded the deer, and -taking his Mary by the arm, he hurried her away in the direction of the -cottage, but not in time to elude the pursuit of the infuriated animal, -which having shaken off the blind followed them at full speed. Owen had -no means of defence; the stag approached rapidly; he bade Mary continue -her speed and reach the cottage, and then, with desperate valour, awaited -the attack; in an instant after, he had grasped the horns and was dashed -to the ground with violence: he rose again and with a bound leaped upon -its back. The creature flung his antlers back, whirled round and round, -but still Owen sat immoveable, and new hopes arose in the breasts of his -friends, who gathered near and hemmed them round, when suddenly the beast -rushed sideways against the trunk of a huge oak, and violently fractured -Owen’s leg; but with persevering bravery he still kept his seat. At -length, unable to rid itself of its burthen, the creature rolled upon the -earth, and in the fall Owen’s right arm was shattered, and his foe once -again free. It reared and placed its fore feet on the chest of Owen; -and, as he raised himself once more to grapple with his enemy, its -pointed antlers struck into his heart, and with a groan he instantly -expired, while the fierce animal took to the mountains, and was seen no -more. - -Mary, who had entered the cottage of the ranger, in the midst of her -terrors spoke of the old woman, who she said had bewitched the stag;—but, -when her friends reached the door of the hut, and found they could not, -by knocking, obtain admission, they broke it open, and found its inmate -dead upon the floor. Rumour said that she had infused her spirit into -the deer to revenge the threats of Owen on the preceding night; and her -remains were treated with a ferocity which it would be as painful to -listen to as to narrate. - -Poor Mary never recovered from the shock; and in a few weeks after the -mangled remains of her lover were deposited in the church yard of Chirk, -the fresh flowers and evergreens were also placed around _her_ grave. - -For many years this tribute of friendship was regularly paid to their -memories. In summer, flowers of the sweetest perfume breathed their -dying odours around their graves, and, in winter, the holly and laurel -spread their shining leaves to adorn their final resting place. Time, -however, took away by degrees, the kind friends of the ill fated lovers, -and no sign now points out the spot where, side by side, they slumber. - - * * * * * - -We now got once more into the coach road, and pushed on for Llangollen, -leaving Wynstay, the seat of Sir Watkin William Wynn, upon the right. -Almost every guide book will furnish the tourist with a description of -this costly mansion and its beautiful grounds; but the wild scenery of -nature, and the ruins of former grandeur, which yield an inexhaustible -fund for contemplation and delight, together with the wild legends of the -peasant or wandering minstrel, which render every spot you tread upon in -this country enchanted ground, are more congenial to the feelings of the -writer of this little work than all the gorgeous display of modern art -and luxury. Therefore Wynstay, with Eaton Hall, the magnificent -residence of the Marquis of Westminster, he resigns to those whose tastes -are more refined (by luxury) to describe. - -Leaving Wynstay on the right, we were conducted along the banks of a -beautiful canal (the same that crossed the valley at Chirk) which was -here planted with larch and hazel in pleasing variety on either side. On -a sudden, an opening in the foliage presented us with a splendid view of -the vale of the Dee, with the grand aqueduct stretching from hill to hill -and the waters of the river making their way among broken rocks, amid -embowering trees, and rolling under the arches of the aqueduct, with that -delightful sound which is only heard in mountain scenery. - -Seldom had I experienced so delightful a sensation as the present -prospect occasioned. All was so calm, so quiet, it seemed indeed “the -happy valley.” Shortly after, however, we found that no golden pleasure -is entirely free from alloy, for on turning a projection upon the road, -we were nearly stifled by the smoke from a lime furnace, and what was -worse, “another and another still succeeded,” resembling a line of -batteries blazing and vomiting forth smoke and destruction, while on the -opposite mountain an uniform body of iron works were firing away from -their tall chimneys, and steadily maintaining the never ceasing conflict. - -At length, however, having happily passed these belligerents, my -companion led me in triumph into a little public house on the road side, -(which overlooked a precipice) _the Aqueduct Tavern_, the exterior of -which promised little better accommodation than is to be met with in an -Irish cabin. We entered, nevertheless, and, although the floor was of -brick, it was very clean and the household utensils glittered along the -walls. - -“Pray, gentlemen, walk into the back parlour,” said a comely looking, -good natured landlady of about forty-three. - -We gladly accepted her invitation, and were agreeably surprised to find a -neat room, carpeted, with a sofa, and half a dozen hair-bottomed chairs, -and every thing rurally comfortable. The window looked upon the -aqueduct, and commanded a beautiful view. - -Here I became musical, and hummed “the woodpecker tapping,” to the no -small annoyance of my companion, who had stretched himself upon the sofa -with the intention, doubtless, of taking a nap after his long walk. - - “And I said, if there’s peace to be found in the world, - The heart that is humble might hope for it here.” - -“And here will I take up my quarters for the night. A glass of gin and -water, cold and weak, if you please, Mrs. —, for I am thirsty. Very -good, indeed;—now, a sheet of paper, to take down my notes of the day’s -ramble. Very good again, Mrs. —, and now if you have good beds you may -get us a lamb chop, with some tea, etc. etc. and leave us to enjoy this -lovely prospect.” - -“No beds, I am sorry to say.” - -“No beds, Mrs. —!” - -“No, sir, I hope to get some by next summer.” - -“Why then, Mrs. —, I am afraid we shall have to proceed to the village. -How far is Llangollen from this?” - -“Six miles, sir.” - -“And it is now—” - -“Just six o’clock, sir.” - -“Then bring in two screeching hot tumblers of punch, there’s a good lady, -and - - “Let us take the road.” - -Here the trumpet of my companion began to sound; but I thought it would -be advisable for him to rise before he became too stiff to resume his -walk; therefore, with “yoicks! yoicks!” I startled the heavy god from his -eyelids, and informed him of our unfortunate situation. - -“It matters but little,” said he; “there is sufficient upon the road to -interest us, and perhaps the twilight of such an evening as this is -preferable to the morning.” - -Having discussed our punch and lighted our cigars, we quitted the -comfortable little cottage, and bent our steps towards the aqueduct, -intending to cross by it to the opposite side of the vale. - -A cigar in the cool of the evening is delightful. - - “Glorious tobacco, that from east to west - Cheers the tar’s labour, and the Turk-man’s rest.” - -So sang the Noble Bard, the music of whose lyre is left to charm the race -of mankind for ages yet to come. - -We soon reached the centre of the aqueduct; it extends from mountain to -mountain in length 980 feet; it is sustained by twenty piers, 116 feet in -height from the bed of the river Dee, and the span of the arches is -forty-five feet. - -“Do you observe yon house?” inquired my companion, with a grave air, -pointing to a building which seemed to have belonged to some opulent -person in times gone by, although it was now in a state of decay. Having -replied in the affirmative, he proceeded:—“In that house lived a creature -who was called ‘the Pride of the Valley.’ She was the daughter of a rich -merchant of Bristol, and was beloved by a poor but honest and -well-educated youth, who was, and has been since, a wanderer from his -birth. Her christian name was Eveleen; no matter for her father’s. The -following verses were written upon her untimely fate: - - “In the days of my boyhood, when pleasures pass’d by, - Like the fragrance of flowers on morning’s first sigh, - In the vale of Llangollen there dwelt a fair rose - More lovely than daybreak, and sweet as its close. - Her step was light - As fays by night: - More thrilling her voice than the streamlet that flows - And mild as the moonlight and blue as the sky - Was the beam and the colour of Eveleen’s eye. - - “But Eveleen’s friends were of wealthy degree, - And tyranny forced her to cross the wide sea. - She faded, alas! as she drooped o’er the wave, - And died! but no blossom was strewed on her grave. - The waters deep, - Roll o’er her sleep, - And sea-stars now light up her billowy cave; - The winds moan above her, and Peris deplore - Round the rose of Llangollen, which charms us no more.” - -“She was ordered to the Indies,” he said, vainly endeavouring to hide a -tear, which told me the secret of his heart. I know not how it is, love -tales are generally a great bore to the listener, but there was something -so true, so heartfelt, in that single drop which glistened in the eye of -my companion, that if delicacy would have permitted me, I should -certainly have taxed him as being the hero of his own tale, and have -requested him to give me a more minute relation of the affair. - -I never felt the influence of the sublime mingled with the beautiful so -deeply as when I stood upon this wonderful work of art; wherever I turned -my eyes, the scene was calculated to excite the warmest feelings of -admiration. The Dee flowing beneath, shadowed by the rich tints of the -summer foliage; the ruined bridge; the dark mountain masses upon either -side, patched with gloomy pines, intermingled with the relieving -brightness of the graceful larch;—here tracing the lovely blooming -heather, there the blasted rock in its naked majesty, and the noble -amphitheatre at the extremity of the vale, with a view of the beautiful -stream, as it came winding from the opposite point—the twittering of the -birds as they prepared their mossy nests for repose, gave a charm to the -evening, which can only be felt while witnessing the scene, and exceeds -the power of description. - -Having crossed the aqueduct, we proceeded by the left bank of the canal, -passing a forge that nearly stifled us with gaseous smoke, along a -pathway made of cinders and small coal, the refuse of the foundry. Trees -of every description hung over our heads, and sloped down a deep -declivity to the margin of the Dee, while on the opposite bank the -mountain frowned above us. The partial glances we obtained of the vale -through the woods, discovered scenes which the artist’s fancy might -vainly attempt to equal. The water-flies, darting along the surface of -the canal, and leaving long streaks of light behind them in myriad -flashes, likewise engaged our attention; and we walked on in -contemplative silence, my mind full of the crowd of natural beauties that -surrounded me; while my companion seemed rapt in reflections upon the -past—sometimes pausing to gaze upon a drooping willow, at others scanning -a majestic oak that grew apart from the rest of the waving multitude, as -if recollections of a painful nature crossed his mind. - -At length, we reached the bridge of Llangollen, where the river is seen -to great advantage, tumbling over its rocky bed, and rushing beneath the -dark shelter of the overhanging trees. The village is small, and -contains three respectable inns; viz.: the Hand, at which we stopped by -the advice of my companion, the King’s Head, and the Royal Hotel. We -were shewn into a very good parlour, and, after ordering a tea and supper -dinner, my friend, somewhat exhausted by the day’s march, flung himself -once more upon a sofa, while I resumed my journal. Supper or dinner, or -whatever it may be termed being over, inquiries were made about our bed -rooms. - - [Picture: Llangollen] - -“Your bed, sir, is made over the way.” - -“Over the way!” - -“Yes; my mistress has but one bed unoccupied, and she thought you would -resign that to the elderly gentleman.” - -“Oh certainly, my good girl; and who is to guide me ‘over the way,’ eh! -for it’s as dark as Erebus?” - -“Oh, sir, John, the ostler. Here, John! John!” - -And away went the girl. I confess I have a strong aversion, after having -taken off my boots, put on my slippers, and made up my mind to be -comfortable for the night, to be obliged to walk some hundred yards from -the parlour fireside, across or along a damp street, in a dark night, to -my bedchamber; chilling work it is. At length, however, the deed was -done, and I was shewn into a bedroom, where the murmurs of the flowing -Dee were distinctly heard beneath the window. I felt cold and -uncomfortable. - -“Here am I, then,” said I, soliloquizing, as I pressed the pillow, “here -am I, at length, in the vale of Llangollen—in the village of Llangollen! -the spot which I have so often longed to visit! - - “Flow on, thou shining river!” - -And how fortunate, too, to meet with such an agreeable old gentleman!—and -that Bristol merchant’s daughter, poor girl!—and that old -witch!—corpse-light!—greased cow’s tail!—and, in a few moments, I sank -soundly to sleep. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - -Waking prospect—Plas Newydd and the grounds—Lines written at the -font—Castle Dinas Bran—Legend of Mick Mallow—View of the Castle—Legend of -the Minstrel Fay—Original Air—Festival. - - “I crossed in its beauty the Dee’s druid water, - The waves as I passed rippled lowly and lone, - For the brave on their borders had perished in slaughter, - The noble were banished, the gifted were gone.” - - W. WIFFEN. - -I WAS dreaming of home, and happiness, and a thousand lovely things, when -I was awakened by my new acquaintance, who stood before me dressed for a -sturdy walk, with a glass of brandy and milk in his hand, which he -advised me to finish before I quitted my room. I however, contented -myself with tasting it, and returning him the remainder, which he quaffed -off with the alacrity of one who thought example was better than precept. - -“A lovely morning,” said Triptolemus, rubbing his hands with much -delight; “come, bustle, bustle, my young friend; you are not in London, -now. Permit me to open the lattice; you will find no perfume at your -chamber window in town like this;” and, as he spoke, he flung open the -casement, and a rush of fragrance poured into the room from hundreds of -roses that clustered upon the wall without. It was a draught of delight -which far surpassed the brandy and milk, in my estimation; nor was my -friend at all deficient in praising its sweetness, for, taking a long -breath, he stood, for a moment, with his mouth wide open, and then sent -forth a sigh, long enough to form a bridge over the river for the fairies -to cross upon. - -“Shall we breakfast before we set out upon our ramble? I think we had -better give orders for it, and visit the cottage where Lady Elinor Butler -and Miss Ponsonby so long resided, while it is preparing.” - -This being agreed to, we crossed over to the Hand Inn, and gave -directions for a breakfast, that would enable us to undergo the -subsequent fatigue with cheerfulness; and then struck into the road for -Plas Newydd. This memorable little dwelling is pleasantly situated upon -a rising knoll, and commands a delightful prospect of mountain scenery. - -The front of the cottage is ornamented with an oaken palisade, curiously -carved with grotesque figures, giving a very tasty and aristocratic -appearance to the building. At the back of the house is a neat grass -plot, with a birdcote, where the robins find a grateful shelter in the -winter season, and where the ladies fed them every morning. It is -surrounded with a fence of evergreens. From thence, the gardener, who is -still retained upon the grounds, conducted us under an archway, to a very -pleasant and winding path, which leads to a well stocked fruit garden. -We then descended by a shady walk, arched over with tall trees, to the -primrose vale, through which a refreshing stream rushes over rocks, where -the sun but rarely gilds it with its beams. It is a delightful cool -retreat, and well calculated to awaken the dormant spirit of poesy, in -any heart where it had ever deigned to dwell. We passed over a rustic -bridge which led us to the veranda, from which we had a fine view of the -valley of Cewynn and the Pegwerm mountains; and then proceeding a little -farther up the glen, we seated ourselves opposite a most picturesque -font, brought hither from the ruins of Valle Crucis, by the late -proprietors of this spot. It is enclosed in a small arched niche, and -supplied with the purest water from a murmuring rill, which falls in a -thin stream into the bowl, a draught from which is an exquisite treat—for -_water_ drinkers. - - [Picture: Font in the grounds of Plas Newydd] - - - -LINES WRITTEN AT THE FONT. - - - Drink, gentle pilgrim, from the well, - Thus sacred in this hollow dell! - Drink deep!—yet ere the yearning lip - Touches the draught it longs to sip, - Pray for the souls of those who gave - This font that holds the limpid wave!— - This holy font, which lay o’erthrown - Mid Valle Crucis’ shadows brown, - And which the hands of holy men - Have blest, but ne’er can bless again! - Drink, happy pilgrim, drink and pray, - At morning dawn or twilight grey,— - Pray for the souls of those who gave - This font, that holds the limpid wave! - -The flower garden is laid out with great taste; and the little circular -dairy, sunk in the ground, on the left at the front entrance, affords a -most pleasing and picturesque effect. Altogether, it is a place where -any person, wearied with the bustle of society, would willingly fly for -refuge, and find repose. - -After rewarding the gardener for his attention in shewing us the retreat, -we returned, with good appetites, to do justice to the fare provided by -our host of the Hand. And here I was first destined to hear the sounds -of the Welsh harp. As we discussed our fare, the harper in the hall -played up his liveliest tunes. There was not an original Welsh air in -the whole collection; for it consisted of all the popular songs that had -been bawled about the streets of London for the last three years; and -though probably new to the ears of the dwellers in this secluded valley, -were to me anything but gratifying. I sent out the waiter, therefore, -requesting the minstrel to play a few of his national melodies; when he -immediately commenced an air, to which I have heard a song, I think of -old Charles Dibdin’s, called “The Tortoise-shell Tom Cat.” After a -second attempt, I gave the thing up as hopeless, and was obliged to -content myself with the anticipation of hearing some Welsh airs when I -returned to London, as they seemed to be exiled from their native -valleys. - -Breakfast being despatched, we slung our pistols, _i.e._ leathern -bottles, filled with _eau de vie_, to our sides, and started to view the -ruins of Dinas Bran, an ancient fortress, upon the summit of a conical -mountain, which forms the principal feature of this portion of the vale, -and is indeed a striking object, from almost every part of the -neighbourhood. The ascent begins near the foot of the bridge opposite to -the town. - -As we passed along the street, we perceived the following notice pasted -upon the gable of a house: - - “The Annual Festival of the Llangollen and Llandysilio Female Club - will be held, as usual, at the Hand Inn gardens, on Tuesday, 27th of - June. The members will walk in procession to church, exactly at - three o’clock, &c., &c.” - -“This festival,” said my companion, “is well worthy of notice. The -promoters of this valuable institution are Mrs. Cunluff, and Mrs. Ayton, -the rector’s wife. It was formed for the support of the aged and -afflicted, who have the benefit of food and medical attendance in -sickness and calamity, by contributing a trifle out of their weekly -wages, when in health and employment.” We had sufficient time to ascend -the mountain, and return before the procession quitted the churchyard. - -Triptolemus was strongly built, and, being accustomed to rambling amongst -the Welsh vales, and over its steepest mountains, far outstripped me in -the ascent, which was by no means easy. We took a zig-zag direction up -the hill, which was too precipitate to mount in a direct way, and about -half way up I made a pause. - -“I wish some one would invent a steam pocket apparatus, for dragging -tourists up mountains,” said I, as I seated myself to take breath, upon a -mossy knoll. - -“The circular hollow, by which you have taken your seat,” said -Triptolemus, “is dignified by a legend, which, as you seem to be somewhat -fatigued, I will relate to you.” - - - -MICK MALLOW. - - -Mick Mallow was a shepherd lad, a fond narrator of strange stories, and a -firm believer in knockers, brownies, and other spirits that are supposed -to hover about and under our mountains. He declared that one night, as -he sat quietly meditating what part of the mountain he should select for -his bed, he was startled by hearing a tinkling sound near him, and -raising his head, he saw, perched upon this stone, a little man with a -pair of moss breeches, birch-leaf coat, heather-bloom waistcoat, a yellow -cap of the blossom of a furze bush, shining stockings, and beetle-wing -pumps. Thus equipped, he looked very smart; and in his left hand he held -a fiddle, while with his right he twanged the strings, and made the hairs -of Mick’s head stand on end, - - “Like quills upon the fretful porcupine.” - -“Hôs da i chwi!” said the little fairy, speaking in Welsh; which means, -“good night to you!” - -“The same to you,” said Mick, “and many of them.” - -“You’re fond of a dance, Mick, I believe, and if you stay here, you’ll -have an opportunity of seeing the finest dancers in the world, or out of -the world, and I’m the musician!” - -“Then where’s your harp?” said Mick, “and what’s that ugly outlandish -thing you’ve got under your arm?” - -“Oh! it’s my fiddle,” said the little man, “and you shall bear me play -it, presently.” - -And now Mick saw hundreds of little spirits ascending the mountain; some -of them carrying glow-worms in their hands for torches; some dressed in -white, some in green, and some in brown. But all the females were in -white, and on they came, dancing and singing; but so lightly did they -trip, that not a drop of dew was seen to be displaced by their weight; -and every one saluted Mick with a “good night to ye, Mick Mallow,” and to -every one he made a suitable reply, marvelling how so many well dressed -spirits should know him so well; and he was, to say the truth, greatly -frightened and astonished at his new acquaintance. - -At length the little man, who had invited him to remain where he was, -drew his bow thrice across the strings of his instrument and produced -such exquisite tones, that Mick opened his eyes still wider, and pricked -up his ears with delight. This multitude of spirits had now ranged -themselves in fantastic groups, forming altogether a spacious circle -round the stone upon which their musician stood, who then waved his -fiddle stick, and striking three chords on the fiddle, away they went -dancing round and round, slowly at first, and Mick thought Peg Willis, -the drover’s daughter, couldn’t hold a candle to any one of them, though -she was generally considered the best dancer at any festival for many -miles round. Now Mick was fond of a dance himself, and could hardly -forbear joining them; but his fears prevented him, for he thought that -dancing on a mountain at night, to perhaps the devil’s fiddle, was not -the likeliest way to get to heaven. But, when the dance became more -spirited, he felt his heels knocking together, and he snapped his fingers -and joined in the air with his voice. - -“Well done, well done,” cried the little man who played, “come and join -in the dance Mick, I’ll warrant you never saw such dancing at any -wedding, as you see here!” - -“Never! never! never!” cried Mick, and all the company laughed softly, -and danced faster and faster. - -“Come and join us,” cried they; and Mick rubbed his head, while his heels -kept time; at length, he was so delighted by the motions of a fairy, who -threw her bright glances at him now and then, that with an irresistable -desperation he called out for them to stop, till he got into the centre -of them, which he had no sooner done than he roared out, “Now, you old -devil, play up Brimstone and Water!” - -No sooner had he uttered these words, than the figure of the little man -underwent a change! The yellow cap vanished from his head, and a pair of -goat’s horns, branched out from his head; his face turned black as soot, -his leafy coat, heather-bloom waistcoat and moss breeches, with shining -stockings, vanished, and left a black body with a long tail! while his -beetle-wing shoes disappeared as suddenly and left nothing but the cloven -feet. Mick’s heart was heavy, but his heels were light; horror was in -his breast, but mirth was in every motion. The fays assumed a variety of -forms, some like goats, others like crows; some changed to beetles and -others to batts! all the varieties of flesh and fowl seemed to be the -grand movers of the revel, from the moment he entered the enchanted -circle. The dance, at length, became so furious that he could not -perceive the forms of the dancers distinctly. The rapidity with which -they flew round and round made them resemble a wheel of fire at a white -heat. Still he danced on, although he would very willingly have stopped, -but his legs capered in spite of his will, while old Nick, in the centre, -continued to play with unceasing vigour and seemingly much diverted with -the entertainment. - -Mick’s master, an honest early-rising man, roamed up the mountain, at -break of day, to view his sheep and goats, which he saw quietly browsing -in various parts, but, on nearing this spot, you may imagine his -astonishment, when he beheld his shepherd dancing in that most -extraordinary manner; leaping, twisting and turning in every direction; -for some time, he stood mute with astonishment. At length, he drew near, -and no sooner did Mick perceive his master, than he roared out. “Stop -me! stop me! oh master, stop me!” upon which the master came close up to -him, and was knocked down by an extra fling of Mick’s leg, as he roared -still louder, “Stop me, master, stop me!” - -Having recovered his feet, the old man stared quite bewildered and -exclaimed, “Why, what in the name of the Virgin!—” - -But no sooner had he uttered the word, than the charm was broken, and -poor Mick sank senseless to the earth. When sufficiently recovered, he -recounted the marvellous tale, and declared that all appeared to him as a -dream. But the circle remains, round the edge of the hollow, where the -fairies disappeared, which the peasants assert to be the fairy’s foot -mark to this day. {107} - - * * * * * - -We now proceeded on our ascent, which became more difficult, as we -approached the summit, and after a little toil we stood by the side of -the _well_, whose pure waters gave joy to the inhabitants of this ancient -fortress many hundred years ago, and still offer a welcome draught to the -pilgrim who has sufficient enterprise and perseverance to seek it. - -The view from the summit of this mountain is beautiful in the extreme; -commanding the vale from east to west, with the widely spreading plains -beyond its eastern extremity, and the grand and picturesque mountain -scenery which forms the western boundary. Chirk Castle, Wynstay, Valle -Crucis and Glyndwrdwy are distinctly visible from this elevation, while -the romantic Dee is seen winding beneath, in light and shadow beautifully -varied by the hills, and the woods that droop over its banks. - - [Picture: Castle Dinas, Bran] - -Standing amid the ruins of this ancient British fortress, I observed it -was surely impossible that a spot so romantic could be without its -legends. - -“You are right,” said my companion, “and I will relate one of a young -lady, who once resided within these walls. That she did live here, and -was esteemed very beautiful, there is little reason to doubt, since the -Welsh bards have handed her down to posterity.” - - - -MY FAWNY VYCHAN, -AND THE MINSTREL FAY. - - -My Fawny Vychan was a celebrated beauty of the fourteenth century, and -was the inspirer of many a bard’s most admired effusions. She was of the -house of Tudor Trevor, and her father Ednyfed Vychan then held the -castle, under the noble Earl of Arundel, in the reign of the unfortunate -Richard II. Among her numerous admirers was Evan, a youthful bard of -great beauty, but of mysterious birth; but her heart was given to a -valiant knight, named Howell Einion, the son of Gwalchmai, the son of -Meilir, the Lord of Tre Veilir in Anglesea, who was esteemed the greatest -ornament of chivalry. He was daring, young and handsome, three -qualifications that find grace in the eyes of all ladies, at all periods; -but added to these he was a celebrated bard and a fine musician. Evan -was gentle, delicate and retiring, and she could only yield him her -esteem. Yet nightly did he hover near her casement, and, with the voice -of love, pour forth his soul in melody beneath it. One evening, at the -close of autumn, she listened, while tears of pity fell from her bright -eyes, to the well known voice of Evan. - - The breeze had left the Berwyn hills, - The dew was on the flower, - The bee had sought his honeycomb, - The bird was in his bower; - When swifter than the mountain gale, - And fresh as sparkling dew, - My bee, I sought thy honey-home, - My bird, to thee I flew! - - My Alban steed is white with foam, - And droops his arched neck; - The flood, the mountain, moor, and glen, - He cross’d without a check! - Oh listen, while my harp I strike, - And rouse its sweetest tone, - And hear the language of a heart, - Which beats for thee alone! - - Oh, dearest of the mortal race! - How peerless must thou be, - When spirits quit their happy homes, - To love, and gaze on thee! - Arise, bright star of beauty, rise! - And when from thee I roam, - Send forth the lustre of thine eyes, - To light me to my home! - -Evan, after this touching appeal, remained for some time beneath the -window, gazing upwards, in the hope that she would grant him one -farewell; but disappointed, he turned sorrowfully to depart, when his -progress was arrested, by the sudden grasp of an armed hand, and Einion -stood before him. Howell had often observed, that the eyes of the young -minstrel filled with tears as he gazed upon the beautiful face of his -mistress, and was not pleased with the discovery. His fine eyes, now -flashed with anger upon Evan, who returned the glance as haughtily, and, -but for the delicate frame of the minstrel, the knight would have -revenged himself upon the object of his jealousy. Evan’s eyes were black -as jet, his face was femininely fair, and his transparent skin was tinged -with that beautiful, but fatal hue, which brightens the cheeks of those -already doomed to the consumptive fiend, who flatters while he destroys. - -He was slightly formed, but exquisitely moulded, and so light was his -footstep, that his tread was scarcely heard, so that he obtained the -application of the Minstrel Fay. - -No one knew his parents, or from whence he came. His dress was of the -best though plainest materials of the time; destitute of all the -absurdities that marked the costume of the period; and his steed, which -brought him to the castle, and bore him away from it again, was of the -purest white, and fleeter than any in the baron’s stables. - -“Your steed stands in the valley, Minstrel Fay,” said Howel; “descend and -vanish on his back, swifter than you came hither, or I shall hurl you -from the battlements, and—why!—have I been dreaming!” continued the -astonished knight, with an exclamation of disappointment, mingled with -fear, as he stood with his arm outstretched and his hand clenched, as -though he still retained the minstrel in his hold; instead of whom, it -grasped an aspen branch, which, broken by the gripe, he dashed on the -ground. Suddenly, an unearthly strain of melody arose from the woody -dell, and he distinctly heard the following words: - - “One glance from those seraphic eyes, - To light me o’er the plain; - One silver word to cheer my soul, - And I am gone again!” - -“What ho!” cried the knight, “Maldor! d’Espard!” Two squires were -instantly at his side. “By heaven, witchery is at work, d’Espard! saddle -brown Terror. The Minstrel Fay is in the valley, and find him this night -I am determined.” - -The horse was quickly brought, and, attended by his two followers, he -descended the mountain, at a desperate pace, in the direction from whence -the sounds proceeded. The whole of that night did he gallop over hills, -and through deep glens, in pursuit of Evan; but no trace of him could he -find, and at length, wearied and exhausted with fatigue, he returned to -Dinas Bran, believing all that he had seen a dream. - -At the morning’s meal, he related the story to My Fawny and her father. -The venerable lord jested with him upon his sleep-walking, as he termed -it, and bade him, “have better thoughts of poor Evan, for,” said he, “our -land does not contain a sweeter minstrel, or a finer bard. He is the -pride of my hall, and the delight of all my noble friends. The only -thing I am inclined to censure him for, is his absence. He must belong -to noble blood, for his garb bespeaks him gentle, and his attainments are -those of one who has received an education such as few of us can boast.” - -“I trust, baron,” said Einion, (a little piqued at this high -commendation), “you will allow, he would be loath to enter the lists with -me, in mortal encounter; and, for the accomplishments which belong to men -of rank, I have laboured to be considered no mean scholar.” - -“Why as a knight and bard, I grant you, few can equal Howel ap Einion; at -feast and tourney, you ever shine amongst the first of England’s youth,” -said the good natured baron; “but, my brave boy, do not dislike poor -Howell, because his education has been different from yours.” - -“Not I, my lord; I only wish he would not look so meltingly at your -daughter.” - -My Fawny turned pale, but not from guilt; it was for fear that her -lover’s suspicious mind might prove dangerous to the poor youth, of whose -hopeless affection she was aware, and vainly regretted. Her lover -noticed the change; and so did her father, who instantly said, - -“Well, well, to end the dispute about who is most fitted to be my -daughter’s husband, I have resolved that of all her suitors, he who shall -prove best leaper in the approaching British Olympic at Plas-Gwynn, shall -have my daughter’s hand. Will you enter the lists?” - -“I will venture to risk my happiness upon the leap, or upon my success in -any one in the whole list of games; and, I doubt not, but love will -assist me to bear off the prize. But, should I fail—” said he, in a tone -of tenderness, as he took the maiden’s hand, “would My Fawny drop a tear -upon my grave?” - -The lovely girl lifted her dark eyes to those of her lover’s, and the -impetuous knight felt at once assured of her undivided affection. - -The intervening days passed rapidly, while costly preparations were made -for the games that were to take place at Plas Gwynn. - -During this time, Evan was never seen, although Einion often fancied, at -the still hour of night, he heard a harp, and the soft voice of the -minstrel, near the window of his mistress. - -It is sufficient to say that Howell’s belief in his superiority over the -rest of the competitors was justly founded; and he won the lady by -covering the immense distance of fifty feet at a hop, step, and jump, -over the brook called Abernodwydd; in commemoration of which feat three -stones, at the precise intervals, were immediately erected on the spot, -where they still remain to this day, in a dingle called, “_Naid -Abernodwydd_, or _The Leap of Abernodwydd_.”—See Jones’s Bardic Museum, -Vol. II. - -The games being finished, the lovers returned to Dinas Bran, and the -happy day at length arrived. - -Bards of the highest order were seated in the banqueting hall, and -minstrels tuned their harps to joy and gratulation; but Evan was not -there. The baron sat at the head of the board, his daughter and -son-in-law on either hand. And many an anxious wish he felt, for his -favourite bard, and many an eager glance did he cast around the -illuminated hall, hoping to discover him amongst the crowd; but in vain; -and he felt uneasy at his absence. Every guest expressed wonder that he -was not there to celebrate so happy an event, and he became the topic of -conversation with all assembled. - -At length, the time for departure arrived, and the last bard had recited -his complimentary verses, when the door was flung open at the lower end -of the room, and Evan, his harp hung behind him, with a tottering step -advanced towards the upper end of the hall, where the new married couple -sat gazing in speechless wonder at his altered form. There was an -unearthly expression in his face; the bloom which used to mantle on his -cheeks, was no longer there; his eyes were sunk deeply in their sockets, -and the vermilion of his lip was turned to ashy paleness. A seat was -given him; and, without speaking, he placed his harp before him, and -touching its strings, a sound of heavenly music swelled up to the lofty -roof. None ventured to breathe audibly, while he sang - - - -THE MINSTREL’S KNELL. - - - “My Fawny Vechan! brightest maid, - In scarlet robes and gold array’d! - My Fawny Vechan! fairest fair, - That ever breath’d the mountain air! - For thee do spirits pine and fade, - As blossoms in the chilling shade, - Debarr’d from Phœbus’ genial light, - Sink victims to the withering blight. - My Fawny Vechan! hear my prayer! - Thy lover’s—tho’ _a child of air_! - May peace on earth, and bliss above, - Wait on the mortal whom I love! - My outward form of misery - Tells what the spirit feels for thee! - Farewell, farewell! no more the pride - Of sweet Dwrdwy’s mossy side, - In distant vales, I’ll breathe my woes, - And seek, ah, vain, vain hope! repose! - Ah! cou’d I die, I’d not repine, - If Evan’s name might live with thine.” - -From the commencement of his song, the figure of Evan became fainter and -fainter, and the torches and huge candles that illuminated the ball -assumed a dimmer light. The guests, terror stricken, were riveted to -their seats; none presumed to speak their fears; and the whole assembly -appeared, as they had been transformed, in the positions they occupied -while living, into cold marble, so immoveable and inanimate did they -seem. On a sudden, the figure of Evan vanished!—The substantial harp -falling upon the floor restored the guests to motion; while Einion’s -attention was called to the restoration of his lovely bride, who, at the -melancholy close of the fairy’s song, had fainted, and still lay -insensible in the arms of her father, the baron. - -The stone, at the upper end of the banqueting hall, is said to mark the -spot upon which, for the last time, was heard the melody of “THE MINSTREL -FAY!” - - * * * * * - -“A very pretty fable; and now let us return, to witness the procession at -Llangollen,” said I. - -Having taken refreshment, we proceeded to the church-yard, and stationed -ourselves near a monument to the memory of Lady Eleanor Butler, Miss -Ponsonby, and their faithful servant, Mrs. Mary Carrol. From this -interesting spot, we beheld a novel sight. Two or three hundred -villagers had assembled, and were scattered about the churchyard in -groups; some, stretched upon their backs, were sleeping on the flat -tombstones, their hardy features protected from the scorching rays of the -sun by the gay cotton handkerchief or the straw hat; some stood in knots, -conversing upon the results likely to take place from petticoat -government (for the proclamation had been received only the day -previous); others gazing with eager eyes, upon a flight of steps, up -which a number of smart village girls, with laughing eyes and ruddy -faces, tripped lightly to a doorway, which entering, they, one by one, -like shadows, disappeared. Every moment, the cemetery became more -crowded, and, as I noticed, principally with the infirm and aged. Before -me stood a palsy stricken creature, whose white locks waved about her -face at every motion of her feeble head. Then came a form, once, -doubtless, erect and handsome, but now by age so bent, that his head -found a melancholy parallel with his hips, and a beechen staff supported -his debilitated body. Another and another still pressed on, the sick, -the lame, thronging to the gay scene, anticipating joy! As they passed, -however, my busy fancy led them one by one, into a separate grave, -realizing the awful conception of the Dance of Death! - -A strange, discordant sound, awakened me from my reverie, and, although -horribly harsh, I gave it welcome, for it banished a gloomy spirit from -my mind. Turning my eyes towards the flight of steps, I saw the girls -descending, each decorated with a white shawl with a blue border, and -bearing a wand, (it being the symbol and costume of the society), at the -top of which were laurel, and laurestinus leaves, intermingled with -roses, lillies, etc., etc. The beadle of the parish, who on these -occasions is no insignificant personage, was seen bustling about, -arranging the form of procession, bringing forward this one, pushing back -that, keeping order, and knocking the boys’ hats over their eyes for -having approached the lines too closely; while the motley band, in -various keys played, “Oh the roast Beef of Old England;” rather -mal-à-propos, as I thought, as they were about to enter the church, and -hear a sermon which is regularly preached on this day. - -The line now stretched to a considerable extent, and the lady patronesses -appeared to be much delighted at viewing the busy scene, as they hurried -to and fro, with benevolence beaming in their eyes; while old age, and -decrepitude, cast away their sorrows and hailed the jocund scene. - -All being ready, the rector and his curate placed themselves in the van, -the lady patronesses followed, and to the sound of the inspiring bassoon, -drum, keyed bugle, and cracked trumpet, they proceeded by the iron gate, -through ranks of happy human beings ranged on either side, like old oaks, -young saplings, nettles and pea blossoms, huddled together in -“promiscuous alliance.” Having taken a prescribed circuit, they again -entered the churchyard by another gate, and passed into the church; when -a discourse, very much to the purpose, was given by the rector; after -which, they adjourned to the Hand hotel, where they had a tea-total -entertainment, and passed the evening in strolling about the gardens, -listening to the inimitable band of wind instruments, which brayed out an -execrable accompaniment to the exquisite music of the Dee, as it swept -beneath them, overshadowed by the drooping foliage of the opposite bank. -Altogether, it was a most gratifying sight—for the simple souls were -happy. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - -Valle Crucis—The Abbey—Lines written in the ruins—A loquacious -porteress—A view of the Abbey—The pillar of Eliseg—A parting—Road to -Corwen—Vale of the Dee—The musical pedestrian—War song—Over the hills and -far away—An adventure—Corwen—The Church—College—Cross and Circle—Air -Llwyn-own—Route to Landrillo—An old soldier and his son—Village of -Landrillo—A fair—Vale of Edeyrnion—Arrival at Bala. - - “Fill the Hirlas horn, my boy, - Nor let the tuneful lips be dry - That warble Owen’s praise; - Whose walls with warlike spoils are hung, - And open wide his gates are flung, - In Cambria’s peaceful days. - - “This hour bright is meant for joy, - Then fill the Hirlas horn, my boy, - That shineth like the sea, - Whose azure handles, tipt with gold, - Invite the grasp of Britons bold, - The sons of Liberty!” - - _From the Welsh of Prince Owen Cyveilog_, by R. W. - -ON the following morning, we bade adieu to Llangollen, and proceeded -first to Valle Crucis. - - [Picture: Valle Crucis Abbey] - -Like most abbeys, it is beautifully situated. The monks of old well -appreciated the value of rich lands and clear streams. An old woman -received us at the gate, and instantly began to retail her information. -“Gryffyd ap Madoc, Lord of Bromfield and Yale, founded this abbey in the -year 1200.” There are parts of both church and abbey still remaining; -the former was cruciform, and exhibits several styles of architecture. -The eastern end is the most ancient; it is adorned by three lancet slips, -forming one grand window. The entrance was in the west, under a broad -and beautiful window, above which is a smaller one, of a marigold form, -decorated with tracery and fret-work, and beneath it may be deciphered -the following inscription: - - A.D.A.M.D.N.S fecit hoc opus, pace beatâ quiescat Amen. - -The cloisters are turned into a farmhouse and offices. - -This noble edifice was dismantled by Henry VIII. My companion, feeling -desirous to bathe in the clear waters, left me to my contemplations, -encompassed by the ruined walls of the abbey, and tall ash trees, which -shaded the area of the church. I wandered from thence to the fish pond, -which is near to the abbey, and, while my companion was enjoying his -ablutions, my muse jogged my arm, and reminded me that some tribute was -due from me to this lovely spot. Taking out my pocket book and pencil, I -produced the following - - - -LINES WRITTEN AT VALLE CRUCIS. - - - Monastic Valle Crucis! while I linger in thy shade, - The spirits of the olden time seem moving in the glade; - Rebuilt appear thy ruined walls, and thou art strong again, - As when the organ through those aisles poured forth its solemn - strain. - - Here reigneth peace and solitude, as if some holy spell - Still charmed the blessed region where religion loved to dwell; - No music, save the streamlet’s voice, disturbs the deep serene, - And breezy sounds sweet murmuring throughout the woodlands green. - - Oh fallen Valle Crucis! full six hundred years are gone - Since the warlike lord of Dinas Bean laid thy foundation stone; - And mighty didst thou flourish, till that fell destroyer came, - Than mouldering time more ruthless, and of sacrilegious name. - - Then, holy Valle Crucis! was thy sacred roof thrown down, - Thy peaceful inmates scattered, rent the sacerdotal gown; - The mournful ivy clustered o’er thy grey and ruined walls, - And ash trees sprang, where torches blazed, within thy sainted halls. - - Hushed are the lips of all who dwelt within that cloistered fane; - And holy feet will never press the polished floors again, - At morning prayer and vesper hymn, which thrilled thy very stones— - Forgotten now those pious ones, and whitened are their bones! - - Yet ivy’d Valle Crucis! thou art fairer in decay - Than all the splendid structures which adorn our modern day; - In every mouldering fragment of thy consecrated pile - There’s a charm to all who view thy walls, or tread thy broken aisle. - - Peace dwell around thee ever! may no heedless hand molest - The solemn bird which builds in thee its ivy-mantled nest, - Whose breathings seem the deep-drawn sighs of bosoms fraught with - pain, - Lamenting the departed, who will ne’er return again. - -The porteress of this ancient building is Ann Dale, who has lived in this -solitary but delightful spot for two years; and, although a Shropshire -woman, has made herself, during that period, sufficiently acquainted with -the Welsh language to discourse fluently with the country people, in -their native tongue; and has moreover committed to memory everything -interesting, relative to the spot where she resides. It is evidently her -delight to point out to strangers the objects most worthy their -attention; and her love of the venerable pile has induced her to take -spade in hand, and clear away the rubbish that perhaps had for centuries -been accumulating round the columns, leaving them clear to their -foundations. Time has been over busy with her features; but her limbs -are as active as those of a girl of sixteen, and her spirits are as light -as her heels. - -“Ah, sir!” said she, after enumerating the good offices she had received -from the neighbouring gentry, and the friendly feelings of the more -humble classes, “I’ve always made it a rule, throughout my life, to be -civil to every body. Civility costs nothing, you know, and I’m always -surprised to hear people, when they are asked a simple question, if they -chance to have a better coat on their backs than the person who addresses -them, give an answer as if they were speaking to cattle, or worse brutes, -when you know, sir, (approaching the cottage at the head of the pond) we -are all the same flesh and blood, (pausing on the second step.) I don’t -say but there ought to be distinctions, for we can’t be all gentlefolks, -(entering.) But then, where’s the difference, when we are as them that -lie in the abbey there? or like these poor bones that I have in a box -here, (opening it and displaying some human relics.) They all comed out -of the abbey ground, Sir. Why these might be a bishop’s, or a great -warrior’s, for aught we know to the contrary. Well, sir, after all, -there’s nothing like good common sense. Solomon prayed for good sense, -and he had it; and, thank God, I have it, too. Now, sir, come this way -(leading back to the margin of the monks’ pond) and I’ll show you -something that shows what a thing Providence is. You see that stone jar -there, sir—just there in the water; well, sir, you know there are no -flies in the winter; so the poor fish would be sorely put about for food, -but for Providence. Well, upon that jar I’ve seen thousands and -thousands of things like shells and patches of grey moss; and I’ve seen -the trout cluster about it, and feed upon ’em often. And, whenever I -thinks of that, sir, it brings to my mind the 104th Psalm.” - -“What is the name of that mountain, my good lady, to S.E. of the abbey?” -I inquired. - -“Why that, sir, is called Fron Fawr. It is 1328 feet above the level of -the sea, sir.” - -I thanked her for her information; and, prompted by an incontrollable -appetite, ventured to ask if she could supply us with anything eatable. - -“Why, I’m afraid,” said she “that I have nothing that you’ll like, sir; -for I’m a poor lone woman, and what suits me, wouldn’t perhaps sit upon -your honour’s stomach. But there _were_ a party here this morning, and -they left behind ’em a pork-pie, because the dish got broke, and a piece -of apple tart; and I have gotten a piece of oatcake, and a piece of -cheese; if you could manage to put up with that, sir, you’re quite -welcome.” - -Talk of Christmas times, of roast beef and plum pudding! Give me June, -with cold pork-pie, apple tart, and cheese, in a summer-house overlooking -a monk’s pond, and surrounded by waving woods and lofty trees, in view of -the ruined abbey, - - “Where monks of old - As I’ve been told - Quaffed the merry, merry nut brown ale.” - -By the time my travelling friend had returned from his bath, the table -was furnished with fare calculated to satisfy his appetite, at the -expense of pork-pie, tart, etc. Mixing the contents of our united flasks -with the pure cool waters of the refreshing spring, inhaling the perfume -of Havannah, and making a sofa out of two wooden chairs, we amused -ourselves with a retrospective view of the scenes we had passed through -since we met. It was now twelve o’clock, and, as it was my intention to -reach Bala by nightfall, we rose to depart; and with many thanks and kind -wishes from the old porteress of Valle Crucis, quitted that interesting -ruin, and proceeded to - - - -THE PILLAR OF ELISEG. - - -It stands in a meadow, a short distance from the abbey, and was a -memorial of the dead; an improvement on the rude columns of Druidical -times, sculptured into form, and surrounded with inscriptions. It is -among the first lettered stones that succeed the Meini-Hirion, Meini-Gwyr -and Llechan, and stood on a great tumulus, perhaps always environed with -wood, according to the custom of the most ancient times, when standing -pillars were placed under every green tree. - - [Picture: Pillar of Eliseg] - -This pillar was erected above a thousand years ago, to the memory of -Eliseg, the father of a Prince of Powis, called Rochwel Yscythrog, who -met his death at the battle of Chester, in 607. During the civil wars, -this pillar was thrown down, and broken, and the shaft which was -originally above twelve feet in length, is now only eight. At the -suggestion of the Rev. John Price, Bodleian librarian, and great -antiquary, Mr. Lloyd, of Trevor Hall, had it placed in its present -position. - -At this spot, my companion and I were to separate. I felt the -approaching loss severely; for where could I expect to find another so -amusing and so kind? - -“You’ll come and see me at Rhuthyn?” said he. “I have a snug cottage, a -good housekeeper, a bed, and as good a glass of port as you will find in -the neighbourhood;—promise to visit me at your return.” - -I promised not to forget his hospitable invitation, and, with a feeling -of regret I never before experienced at quitting a new acquaintance of so -short standing, I squeezed his hand—and we parted. - -From Valle Crucis Abbey, I proceeded to the banks of the Dee, and -crossing the rude bridge over the river struck into the high road to -Corwen, and proceeded at a brisk pace. The country became highly -interesting. The mountains are lofty; and beneath, upon the right, -Glyndwrdwy, _the valley of the Dee_, discloses its picturesque beauty. -This was the property of the celebrated Owen Glyndwr. - -The vale is so serpentine that it presents a succession of most exquisite -views, and after a walk of three miles, on looking back, Castle Dinas -Bran seems placed upon a lower eminence. The valley of Llangollen may be -seen likewise from hence for many miles, terminated by the distant -mountains. - -After passing the fourth mile stone, the road takes a straight direction; -and at this spot I came up with a person who, seated upon the road, was -extracting some very tolerable music from one end of his walking cane. -He was a tall thin man, with sharp features and large blue eyes. He had -on a broad brimmed glazed hat, a blue frock coat, with nankeen -pantaloons, short gaiters, and shoes. The rest of his wardrobe was -wrapped in a pocket handkerchief; and his name, as I afterwards learnt, -was Whiffler. - -Upon my approaching him, he withdrew his musical cane from his mouth, and -observed that it seemed likely to rain; and, by the misty appearance of -the atmosphere before us, I concluded he was right in his observations; -for in that direction the country was nearly obscured, while behind us, -the sun sent forth his brightest beams upon mountain and stream; though -the valleys partly slept in shadow, as he slowly journeyed to his western -couch. - -“Travelling far, sir?” inquired my new companion. - -“At my leisure,” I replied. - -“Fine road, this, sir.” - -“Capital.” - -“Are you fond of music?” - -“Passionately.” - -This was sufficient encouragement to make my new acquaintance turn his -staff once more into an instrument of sound, and he played a wild kind of -march, which he assured me was called “The War Tramp of Owen Glyndwr,” -the Welsh chieftain, who was so formidable an enemy to Henry IV.—Taking -up the idea, I endeavoured to compose some appropriate lines for the air. -(See music plate.) {130} - -“Have the kindness, sir,” said my companion, “to step out with your left -foot at the beginning of the bar, and you will find it excellent marching -time.” - -I complied with the whimsical request, and he seemed much pleased at my -readiness to oblige his humour; for he blew away unceasingly, and I dare -say would never have thought of stopping, had I not pointed out a -handsome house to him, upon the opposite hill, and requested him to tell -me the name of its proprietor. - -“Do you mean that semibreve, in the middle of that forest of -demi-semi-quavers?” - -I laughed at his conceit, and replied in the affirmative. - -“Oh! that belongs to Mr. Jones, and is called Llandysilio Hall—a very -worthy man. This glen, sir, has been the scene of many sanguinary -conflicts.” - -Here he struck up “The Battle of Prague,” and we marched on for about a -mile further, when he suddenly stopped short before a small public house, -upon the road side. - -“I have an idea,” said he, “that a small drop of brandy, mixed with a -little mulled ale, sugar and nutmeg, would make us get over the next four -miles—prestissimo—eh? Con spirito, um?” - -I agreed to the con spirito, but assured him a moderato movement would -suit my inclination better for the remainder of the walk to Corwen. He -then led the way into the house; and certainly, of all the comforts a -tourist can experience, that of seeing a neatly sanded room, with shining -oaken seats and tables, walls white as snow, pans and pots glittering in -well ordered arrangement against them, a fine polished kitchen range -enclosing a good fire, and a smiling, civil, hospitable hostess anxious -to attend your commands, however trifling they may be, is the most -desirable. I never saw any country where so much attention is paid to -the cleanliness of the interior of their cottages, if I except Holland, -and in this respect the peasantry resemble each other. - -Having despatched this agreeable beverage, we resumed our walk, and in -about ten minutes, the rain, which had long been threatening us, fell in -torrents, and we resembled a couple of half drowned rats as we faced the -storm. - -My companion, with a half-comic and half melancholy cast of countenance, -observed, “I declare, I can hardly make my instrument speak, although I -have got a natural shake in my voice, as you may hear. Very cold, sir; -isn’t it? Look yonder,” continued he, pointing to a clump of fir trees. -“There, sir, once stood the celebrated wooden house, attached to the -mansion of that mighty warrior and magician who could - - “Call spirits from the vasty deep—” - -for the purpose of lodging the guests. The mansion stood upon our left, -and was formerly of grand dimensions, they say; though now alas! not a -vestige of it remains. The site of the visitor’s lodging rooms commands -a fine prospect of the valley. Perhaps you would like to walk up to it?” - -“Certainly;” and, accordingly, we jumped over a stile and climbed to the -summit of the mound, from which a glorious view of the valley was -obtained. Upon reaching the top, the traveller is surprised to find, -that what he looked upon as a mere mound, when viewed from the road, -assumes the form of a tremendous precipice as he looks down upon the dark -waters of the Dee, (which wind around its base), and glances over the -fertile valley stretched far beneath, where Glyndwr vanquished the -oppressor Grey. I had fallen into a reverie, from which I was awakened -by the shrill sounds of the musician’s fife stick, which startled me with -its discordant notes, and brought me back from the fourteenth century to -the nineteenth, with a celerity far from pleasing. - -As we resumed our walk, we heard the rumbling of wheels, and the tramp of -horses behind us, and pausing to see what vehicle was approaching, we -beheld a kind of van, drawn by two enormous animals, as large as any of -the breed employed in some of the London breweries. They were driven by -a young man, of about nineteen years of age. - -“Will you ride as far as Corwen?” said he, at the same time pulling up -his horses. - -As the rain was falling fast, and this conveyance promised to carry us to -the town in half the time it would take us to walk thither, we gladly -accepted the offer. I mounted by the side of the driver, having always a -predilection for that seat; while my more prudent musical acquaintance -jumped into the body of the cart, and was presently lost sight of beneath -a dozen coal sacks, that covered several ale casks. - -I soon found that my situation was far from being enviable. In the first -place, there was no foot board, and I kept slipping forward, every now -and then, at the hazard of falling upon the horses’ heels. The air -became more keen, the rain rattled upon my visage with greater violence -than ever, and silently I confessed—forgive me ye gnomes and demons of -the storm!—that notwithstanding the grandeur of the mountain-torrent, I -should at that time have given a preference to a little of the “mountain -dew.” - -Presently, I heard the shrill sound of the fife issuing from underneath -the sacks, to the tune of “Over the hills and far away,” and was about -requesting the driver to stop, until I joined my companion in his lair, -when a smart lash upon the flank of the near horse made him dart off at a -pace which defied all the efforts of the Welsh boor to check. With his -right arm holding fast by the front rail of the caravan, he with his left -pulled with all his strength to keep the horses in the road, and we -dashed along, first upon one side, and then upon the other, for the -middle was never kept, until I began to look out for the most comfortable -landing place. I then caught hold of the near horse’s rein, while he -tugged away at the other. The seat was slippery, and the reins were wet, -and our united efforts would have failed in checking their speed; but -espying a hill about half a mile a-head of us, - -“Now then, keep ’em together,” said I, “and let them have their race out, -for they must stop at yonder hill.” - -All this time the fife was whistling like mad, “Go to the devil and shake -yourselves;” and Mr. Whiffler was luxuriating in blessed ignorance of our -danger. - -Having made up my mind to the worst, but hoping for the best, I regaled -myself with a sup of brandy from the pistol at my side, and then handed -it to the driver, who drank—as if he liked it. We by this time reached -the foot of the hill, at the same slashing pace, and began the ascent in -a first rate style; but, when we had got about half way up, we were -startled by a loud cry behind us, and, upon turning my head, I saw poor -Mr. Whiffler seated in the middle of the road, flourishing his musical -cane, and shouting most vociferously for us to stop. It seemed that he -was amusing himself with his favourite airs, and never felt the gradual -retiring motion of the sacks as we ascended the hill, until he was fairly -shot out at the tail of the van, where he lay sprawling; but, thanks to -the friendly sacks, unhurt. - -Our frisky Flander’s steeds, coming to the push at the steep rising -ground, relaxed in their rapid course, became quiet as lambs, and at the -summit of the bill were very glad to come to a dead halt to recover their -breath; giving my musical friend ample time to come up with us, which he -had no sooner done, than, as if nothing had occurred worth mentioning, he -resumed his situation in the van, and struck up “Drops of brandy.” I -took the hint, and presented him with my reserve, which he emptied with -much apparent satisfaction, and returned the flask with thankfulness. -Then resuming his unwearying amusement, he never ceased until we reached -the inn at Corwen; not the principal one, but a small house on the right -of the street opposite to the Owen Glyndwr; which latter has a gigantic -head over the door, much resembling the Saracen’s of Snow Hill notoriety. - -I discovered the landlord of “The Welsh Harp” to be the proprietor of the -van, and that the driver was his son. He also followed the occupation of -watch and fishing tackle maker, and I willingly, therefore, took up my -quarters with this specimen of Welsh rusticity, when invited, in -preference to quartering at the great inn with the great head, as also -did Mr. Whiffler. - -The first question put to the jolly landlord, was, “What can you give us -to eat?” It was about three o’clock in the day. - -“Why, sir, I have a nice roast duck and some peas, which were intended -for John’s,” meaning our van-driver, “dinner; but I shall be able to find -something else for him.” - -“And how long, pray, will it be before it is ready?” - -“A quarter of an hour.” - -“Very well, that will do; and, in the interim, I’ll borrow one of your -coats, and we will visit the church, if there is anything in it worth -looking at.” - -No sooner said than done; and a large blue coat, with two heavy capes, -and brass buttons of the size of crown pieces, was immediately brought -forth, which I slipped into, it fitting me—like a sack! No matter—my own -was thoroughly drenched, and was hanging before a blazing fire in the -kitchen, reeking like a leg of mutton, hot from the boiler. - -“Would you like to slip into a pair of my leather breeches?” inquired my -hospitable host. - -This I thankfully declined, upon looking at the difference of our -dimensions. My piping friend was comfortably seated in the chimney -corner, and observing “that he had never frequented church since he was -married, having received at that time a shock he could never recover,” he -commenced playing the beautiful air of “My ain fireside,” whilst I, -turning most heroically to the right about, again braved the “pelting of -the pitiless storm,” accompanied by John, our driver, who, in a few -minutes, conducted me to the ancient edifice. - -On one side of the altar is the lid of a coffin, which has the following -inscription: - - “Hic jacet Jorweth Sulien, vicarius de Corvaen ora pro eo.” - -In the church wall is shewn the private doorway through which Owen -Glyndwr entered the building whenever he attended divine worship, and in -the rock, which overhangs the churchyard, there is a recess, which bears -the name of Glyndwr’s chair; and the stone which now forms the lintel of -the doorway leading to his pew, is said to retain the mark of his dagger, -half an inch in depth, which he threw from the said chair; but upon what -occasion it is not stated. - -In the churchyard is a range of building called Corwen College, having -over the archway the following inscription: - - Corwen College, - For six widows of the Clergymen - Of the church of England, - Who died possessed of cures of souls, - In the county of Merionethshire. - Built and endowed - A.D MDCCL by the legacy of - William Egton Esq. - Of Plas-warren. - -In the cemetery there is a cross, fixed in a circular stone, westward of -the steeple; and it is supposed that the name of Corwen is a corruption -of Corvaen, and derived from the cross. Cor signifies a circle, and maen -(which is likewise considered to have been changed into vaen) if joined -to cor, means a cross in the circle. - -Having satisfied my curiosity here, I returned to the public house, and -the first object which met my delighted eyes was the promised duck, -accompanied by a dish of most elegant trout; a dainty for which I had -been longing ever since I entered this territory of rocks and torrents. -My friend was already placed at the table, and he clapped his hands, and -rubbed them with evident delight and satisfaction at seeing me arrive so -opportunely. The fish despatched, duck and green peas in close column -brought up the rear. But I and my gallant comrade—a better trencherman -ne’er poised a fork—attacked in line, cut up the one, and routed the -other, with the most determined bravery. The right and left wings were -attacked and cut off from the main body, which with all its material we -dispersed in the glorious conflict, remaining masters of the field. - -Although I thus warmly express my satisfaction at partaking of this not -easily-to-be-forgotten luxury, let me not be mistaken for a gourmand; but -a wet and tired traveller, however much his mind may be enchanted by the -scenery through which he passes, never beholds a more delightful prospect -than a comfortable meal at his journey’s end. It so happened, however, -that this was not to be my journey’s end, for a blaze of light darted -into the room at the moment John had carried off the spoils from our -field of battle, and the glorious orb of day shone forth in cloudless -majesty. - -Wine in such a house, being out of the question, we ordered a jug of warm -punch, and having drank success to my musical friend in a brimming -goblet, I began to think, as my time was limited, and his path lay -towards Cerrig-y-Drudion, and mine towards Bala, I had better reach that -place before dark. My companion having divested himself of his shoes and -stockings, and adopted those of the landlord, and feeling himself -comfortable before the fire, resolved upon remaining where he was until -bedtime. Wishing him, therefore, a pleasant evening, and a good night’s -repose, I once more took the road for another walk of ten miles; while I -heard the shrill sounds of his fife stick playing the Welsh air of -“Farewell Glanddyn.” - -At the end of the village, I was attracted by the eyes of the prettiest -little Welsh lass that I remember having seen in the country. Health -bloomed in her cheek, and animation darted from her sloe-black eyes. She -was talking to a village lad, who appeared to be much abashed by some -reproof she had given him; and presently, with a significant nod of the -head and an admonitory glance of the eye, she turned briskly from him, -and frisked by me, humming a Welsh air—the first that I had heard since I -entered the principality—while the youth, with a smile and a sigh, turned -in a contrary direction, exclaiming, “Ah, Jenny, if you refuse so many, -you may happen to pray for one yet.” - -I afterwards discovered that the Welsh air was called after the mansion -of Mr. Edward Jones, the compiler of that most interesting book of -Cambrian lore, the Bardic Museum. I instantly determined to put the idea -I had formed in my mind of the Welsh lass into verse, and to adapt the -lines to the music. (See plate.) {143} - -Every thing looked cheerful; the birds carroled joyously from the trees -and bushes; and I joined in the chorus. A robin appeared to be much -taken with my vocal powers, and for a good while kept me company, -alighting constantly some ten or twelve yards before me, and listening -attentively until I had passed as far; then, passing me again in his -flight, he took up his station as before. “Poor bird!” thought I, “I -remember in my boyhood I have followed some of your race as eagerly as -you now follow me; and my ears drank in their notes, intoxicating my -senses with delight. I shall never forget the old mulberry tree that -grew in our play grounds, shadowing a pretty little hermitage in which I -used to sit apart from my schoolfellows and listen to the notes of that -delightful warbler, with whom I grew familiar, and fed every evening with -crumbs of bread, saved from my dinner.” - -How extraordinary it appears that the past should always seem more -delightful than the present! I am convinced, that I was more miserable -during my school-boy days than I have been since, and yet my mind returns -to the brighter portions of the picture only. The April beams that dried -up the tears of my youth live in the memory, while the clouds and showers -are buried in oblivion. Youth, youth!—why should we ever grow old? why -are we not as fresh and green at sixty as we are at twenty?—why may we -not enjoy the blessings of vigour, the elastic bound, the rosy tint, the -boundless flow of spirits, the freshness of imagination, until the moment -when we drop into the grave?—But sentimentalism is a bad subject for -sale, and therefore I have no business to introduce any chapters of such -a nature in this little work. - -At a short distance from Corwen, a road branches off to the left, along -which the traveller should trudge to the village of Llandrillo, and he -will be repaid by the sight of one of the most fertile valleys in Wales. -It is a mile farther to Bala by this route, but the superior beauty of -the scenery will amply recompense him for the extra distance; for, with -the exception of a view of Bala lake, obtained from an eminence on the -road, which runs along the opposite side of the valley, it is dull and -uninviting. But, on the contrary, by the Llandrillo route, the eye is -delighted with a succession of scenes, varied and interesting in the -extreme. Huge masses of rock hang over the road, upon the left, in -threatening grandeur, while waving woods, and falling streams, give -endless variety to the picture. - -After proceeding four miles, I crossed a bridge over a fine trout stream, -the banks of which are shaded with trees; and, turning into an avenue -upon the right, seated myself by the margin of the brook, secured from -the hot rays of the mid-day sun, and fancied myself the melancholy -Jacques. There only wanted a wounded stag, to make the illusion perfect. - -Here I was shortly after joined by an old man and his son, who, after -some hours’ fishing, had contrived to fill a moderately sized basket with -very fine trout. The father was tall and thin, with prominent features, -sharp grey eyes, and grey locks; his port was erect, “stiff as a ramrod,” -and if he had been unfortunate enough to have had a lame leg, he would -have made an excellent representation of Corporal Foss. The son, a youth -of about nineteen, was clad in a suite of clothes so tattered, that my -curiosity was excited to learn at which rent he got into them. His -fishing basket was slung at his back, and his rod was composed of odds -and ends; his hat, from long exposure to the weather, had lost its crown, -while the rim was torn into ribands. If ever the god of love assumed the -disguise of ragged poverty, he could not have chosen a better model, both -in person and attire. His height was about five feet, nine inches; his -face a perfect oval; his hair, which stole in clustering curls from -beneath its wretched covering, was of the brightest auburn; his forehead -was broad and high; his eyebrows finely arched, and his dark blue eyes -were lighted up with the fire of animation; his nose, teeth, and chin -were perfectly beautiful; his neck and shoulders would be invaluable to a -sculptor; and his whole graceful frame seemed formed for strength and -activity. His demeanour was respectful and modest, and the contrast -between the noble creature and his sorry garb was painfully striking. -There was, however, a look of independence and a freedom in his gait, -which suited well with the surrounding scene. - -The old man seated himself near me, and lamented that he could not obtain -any fire to light his pipe. This element I quickly supplied him with, -and, lighting a cigar for myself, we resembled a knot of Indian warriors -smoking “the calumet of peace.” I entered into conversation, offering my -flask, by way of making a favourable impression. They thankfully availed -themselves of my offer, and my expectations were not disappointed. The -old man told me that he had been a soldier in his youth, and fought in -many battles, both in Egypt and Spain, and was now in the receipt of a -pension from government, for honourable wounds, which at various times he -had received in the service of his country. - -While his father whiffed his tobacco, the youth angled down the stream, -but soon returned and, respectfully and gracefully declining my -invitation to renew his draught, he stood looking down upon us, his arms -folded across his chest, embracing his rod, and listening modestly to the -old man’s narration. I sat an hour with these two beings, and, having -purchased a casting line and some flies from the elder fisherman, he put -two extra ones into my hands, saying: “There, sir, are two flies, with -which I killed some fine trout, yesterday. I’ll make you a present of -them; and, when you are killing your fish, perhaps you’ll think of the -old soldier.” So, with mutual thanks, we parted. - -As I entered the village of Llandrillo, I was much delighted with the -lively scene. The long street was crowded with peasantry, in their -holiday clothes. On each side were stalls, formed of tubs turned upside -down, and boards placed upon them, to support their merchandise; square -patches strewed with straw and covered with crockery and glass; tables -well stored with woollen hose and mittens; and stands of gingerbread and -ginger-pop were liberally stationed in different quarters, to gratify and -refresh the happy throng. At times, a sudden opening in the crowd took -place, the whole mass of people jamming each other upon either side of -the street, to make way for a trotting pony, or an ambling nag, to curvet -and prance down the middle and up again, to show his paces. At the upper -end of the fair, a hardware man harangued a crowd of people from his -travelling warehouse (a covered cart,) endeavouring to persuade them that -he came to Llandrillo solely for their benefit, and for no selfish motive -upon earth, and labouring to convince them, in brazier-like eloquence, -that the articles he offered to their notice were considerably under -prime cost, and could not be purchased elsewhere for treble the -money;—but, though he sold at a great sacrifice to himself, he begged -them not to consider his loss, but their own gain; such an opportunity -would never again present itself, therefore now was their only time to -buy cheap! - -A party of Welsh girls attracted my attention, gathered together in front -of a wall, upon which a line of men’s hats were ranged, of various -qualities and prices; and great glee and laughter were elicited, as each -fitted the new beaver upon her head, it being considered the ne plus -ultra of taste, and a powerful auxiliary to the coquetry of a Welsh girl. - -Leaving Llandrillo, and proceeding towards Bala, the traveller enters the - - - -VALE OF EDEYRNION. - - -The mountains here, upon either side, are covered with plantations, and -the beautiful Dee winds gracefully in the centre of the valley, through -delightful meadows, while corn fields wave upon the sloping banks, and -everything presents to the eye the appearance of freshness and fertility, -cheerfulness and content. At the bridge near Llandderfel, a small -village, which is first observed upon the opposite bank of the Dee, a -splendid view presents itself. The river here is broad, shallow, and -deep, by turns, and looking up or down the vale, its meandering -sportiveness charms the eye. At the extremity of the valley is a lofty -mountain, planted to the summit, which seems so closely to envelop it, as -to prevent all egress. To stand upon this bridge at sunset, and listen -to the whistle of the sheep boy as he trudges merrily along the road, the -song of the husbandman, or the joyous laugh of the milkmaids—sounds that -float upon the silent air for miles, at such an hour,—the twittering of -the birds, before they hide their heads beneath their wings to seek -repose—the low craik of the rail, amidst the corn—and sweeter than all, -the music of the river, discharging liquid sounds from its transparent -bosom,—creates a sensation which we are at a loss how to express. Excess -of pleasure becomes painful; and, overpowered with delight, nature -asserts her influence, and we experience the luxury of tears!—at least, I -did, and I pity from my soul the man who is unfortunately incapable of a -similar feeling. - -Passing through the little village of Llanver, and crossing a stream over -the bridge close by the lodge of Mr. Price of Rhewlas, I at length -arrived at the Bull’s Head in the town, to which house I had been -recommended by a passing traveller; and, tired with my day’s exertions, -called for a tea-dinner and slippers. - - - -BALA. - - -Both these luxuries were furnished me by the fair hands of Martha Jones, -the landlady’s unmarried sister, a lively, black-eyed, pretty lass, who, -in being a spinster, proves that the Bala lads are greatly deficient in -taste, or that Martha has set her cap at something better than is to be -found in Bala. - -Two gentlemen were seated in the room when I entered, each of whom were -discussing the merits of a glass of brandy and water. One of them (a -young man who I afterwards discovered was a captain’s clerk in the East -India service, upon leave,) was making himself particularly entertaining -to his companion, by relating a number of anecdotes about a relative, a -clergyman, whose residence is somewhere in the neighbourhood. - -“Ha! ha! ha! you remember the time when the dinner was given at —; well, -the old boy as usual, had got too much grog aboard, and without a rudder, -began to crowd sail for the stable—my eyes! how he did traverse! but at -last, a gale took his topsail right aback, and capsising him into the -kennel, he began to roar out for help. ‘What’s the matter?’ cried twenty -voices at a time. ‘Oh help! help me up,’ cried the old boy, ‘for I’m the -Lord’s servant!’ ‘Ay, ay,’ cried one, ‘and you’re like all the rest of -’em, want a good deal of looking after.’ Ha, ha, ha!” - -This anecdote, required another glass of brandy and water to wash it -down; which being brought, this irreverend humorist rehearsed a number of -other circumstances concerning his eccentric relative, amongst which was -a story of his ascending the pulpit, to preach a sermon, “and kneeling -down,” said he, “he placed his hand upon the cushion, in the attitude of -prayer, closed his port holes, and fell into a—sound sleep! The -congregation waited—and waited—until their patience was quite exhausted, -and one after another began to heave anchor. The clerk, at last, -ventured to awaken his pastor just in time for him to see the last of his -parishioners leaving the church.” - -I was truly sorry to find, upon inquiry, that this was but too true a -tale of the old man, whose years are many, and who must be well aware, -that a very short time can elapse, before he will become a tenant of the -grave. - -Wearied with the conversation, I rang for my bed candle, and retired to -rest. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - -Bala—The Lake—A Meeting of Magistrates—The Doctor—Rhewlas—Lines written -at Rhewlas—Farewell to the Bull’s Head—A Jolter—Llanthyn—Vale of -Drwstynrnt—Legend of handsome Hugh and the Fairy—Cader -Idris—Dolgelley—Song “Mountain Mary”—The Town Hall—Parliament House—St. -Mary’s Church—Inns—Angling Station, Doluwcheogryd—The Cataracts of -Rhaiadr Du and Pistyll y Cain—Nannau Park—Anecdote of Owen Glyndwr and -Howell Sele—Road to Barmouth—Arrival—Inns—A Walk on the sands. - - “I lay on the rock where the storms have their dwelling, - The birth place of phantoms, the home of the cloud, - Around it for ever deep music is swelling— - The voice of the mountain wind, solemn and loud.” - - MRS. HEMANS. - -ON the following morning, I found myself unable to walk, from the effect -produced by a sprained ancle, and I had the delightful prospect of being -confined to the room of an inn in a country town, without a being to -converse with, or a book to enliven me; but my kind landlord, a fine -portly, rosy-cheeked, round-headed, honest-hearted Boniface, as ever drew -spigot, kindly offered me a pony, to take me to the lake, which, he said, -contained plenty of perch. This offer, I thankfully accepted, and, by -the aid of mine host and his ostler, was soon seated upon the back of a -quiet not-to-be-put-out-of-his-way animal, as any clerical gentleman -could desire to ride upon, and - - “With slow and solemn pace,” - -proceeded to catch fish, and view the scenery around - - - -LLYN TEGID, OR BALA LAKE. - - - [Picture: Bala Lake] - -Seated upon a rock that projects into the lake (under the shadow of which -is the boat house of Mr. Price, of Rhewlas, of whom, more anon) I -commenced my solitary pastime; but my eyes continually wandered from the -float, to the surrounding scenery, which is of a pleasing rather than an -imposing nature. The lake was slightly ruffled by a refreshing breeze, -which fortunately sprang up, and prevented me from dissolving in the heat -of the sun. It is about four miles in length, and in some parts it is -forty yards in depth. The shores are sloping, the soil gravelly, and -delightfully variegated with plantations of trees and shrubs. Towards -the head of the lake, the mountains are upon a very grand scale, and -rival Snowdon in their altitude; _Arran Fowddwy_ is the loftiest of -these, near the summit of which, upon its eastern side, beneath a huge -crag, is situated a lake, which affords excellent sport to the angler, -although the fish are not of the finest quality. - -_Arrenig Vawr_, (or great), which is nearly as lofty as Arran Fowddwy, -and rises upon the N.W. side of the Llyn, has also a lake, containing -trout of a large size, which are noted for rejecting the artificial fly; -but, about half way up the _Arrenig Vâch_, (or little) is a lake, which -when a light breeze sweeps along its surface, will amply reward the -angler for his trouble, in reaching it. A morning, and an evening, at -each of these places, enable me to state thus much, for the benefit of -the disciples of Isaac Walton. - -I was suddenly aroused from a dream of pleasure, which I was enjoying, -with my eyes open, by a tug at my line, reminding me, that a fish had -swallowed the hook. After a little coquetting, which lovers usually make -use of, I brought it to my arms, and then thrust it into my bag; a fine -perch! I now resolved, to begin in earnest, and in an hour, by my -temptation and insinuation, contrived to obtain a very handsome dish, -with which I returned upon my pony to the inn, resigning them and myself -to the care of Martha Jones. This was the only uncomfortable evening I -passed at the Bull—and with respect be it spoken, all my uneasiness was -occasioned, by the magistrates of the county, who had met to discuss the -important business of their various districts, and to join in the - - “Feast of dainties and the flow of port.” - -All the while, the honest landlord, who resembled a “turtle on his hind -fins,” waddled about in high glee. It was a great day for the Bull’s -Head! and his joy resembled Dennis Bulgruddery’s, of the Red Cow, when he -saw a traveller on the heath, walking in the direction of his long -neglected hostelry. The confusion of sounds distracted my brain, and I -was almost tempted to exclaim, in the language of Falstaff, - - “Is hell broke loose?” - -However, remembering that it was occasioned, by a meeting of magistrates, -my reverence for the laws, and the distributors of them, made me place my -disabled foot upon a chair, “like patience on a monument, smiling at -grief.” - -I was informed that Mr. Price was among the assembly, to whom, through -the kindness of Mr. W—, I had a letter of introduction. My accident, -however, would prevent my dining with the party, and I concluded it would -be better to wait until the ensuing morning, to pay my respects to him. -A couple of ducks, with green peas, and a pint of pale sherry, assisted -to restore my good humour; and, after poring over the pages of an old -magazine, till the book became a pillow for my head, I had my foot -dressed and resigned myself to the influence of Morpheus. My bed room -window (the blinds of which, I had neglected to pull down, before I -retired to bed) permitted the full blaze of the morning sun to shine upon -my slothful pillow, and rouse me from my slumber. A great fault, in all -the Welsh inns, is that Morpheus seems to have complete and undisputed -prevalence over the whole household. After satisfying myself that I -could walk across the room, I thought I would endeavour to see something -more of the town, and stroll about, until such time as breakfast could be -prepared. I accordingly dressed, put on the spacious slippers I had been -provided with on the previous night, took a strong ash stick in my hand, -by way of crutch, and hobbled into the pure air. - -The town of Bala consists of one long street, has about 2500 inhabitants, -and is celebrated for its manufacture of woollen articles, such as -stockings, gloves, and, formerly, Welsh wigs. Upon an eminence at the S. -E. end of the town, the old women and young girls assemble in -considerable numbers during the summer months, to pursue their -industrious avocations in the open air. The mound is called, _Tommen y -Bala_; it is said to be of Roman construction; and, from the summit, a -very fine view may be obtained of Llyn Tegid and the mountains. There is -a town hall, and a chapel of ease to the parish church at Llanycil, about -a mile distant, where the morning service is read in English only upon -the first Sunday in each month. Finding my exertion too great for my -ease, I was glad to hobble into the shop of the village apothecary and -surgeon. It was half past eight o’clock, and the drowsy shop boy, who -appeared but recently to have left his bed, informed me, that perhaps his -master would be down in a short time. This indefinite period did not -suit my patience, and I requested him to give his master a call. Still -he came not. I became fidgetty, and began to be indignant, half -resolving to leave the shop, when a little, stiff, consequential looking -personage made his appearance, gazing upon me with a look in which much -dissatisfaction was manifest. My travelling garb (for I had not -discarded my shooting jacket, at this early hour, in favour of a more -appropriate morning costume) did not inspire him with much suavity; but, -after a minute survey, he, with all the dignity of five feet, pointed to -a chair, which I a short time before had quitted to look at some maps -that adorned the walls of the room, I bared my ancle for his inspection, -and he informed me truly, that rest alone could be of service to me. -With this comfortable advice, which I had previously determined not to -follow, I returned to the inn, breakfasted, ordered out the pony, and set -off to visit Mr. Price, of Rhewlas. - -A handsome gateway opens into the grounds of Rhewlas; a neat lodge is -situated upon the right of the avenue, and upon the left, a fine mountain -stream dashes over its black, rocky bed. Half way up the avenue, upon -the right, is a beautiful dingle, over which a bridge is thrown for the -accommodation of passengers, and under it a murmuring rill, glides on its -course to the principal stream. A profusion of rhododandrums, of a kind, -are interspersed amongst the trees, and shrubs, forming a delightful -contrast. Here the noble oak, the beech, and birch, flourish luxuriously -in common with the other numerous leafy tenants of the forest, whose ever -varying hues delight the eye. - -The house is situated on a rising ground, backed by the mountain and -extensive woods, and commands a noble prospect. - -After dinner, I accompanied Mr. Price in his phaeton, to take a survey of -the estate, and was much delighted with the evident pleasure he took, in -improving the roads in the neighbourhood. Under his auspices, a new line -of road is joined to Corwen, which, although deficient in picturesque -beauty, is shorter by one mile than that by Llandrillo, and affords far -better travelling. - -Mr. Price has planted, during his residence at this lovely spot, no less -than 650 acres, and the domain altogether presents a picture of beauty -and happiness, seldom to be met with. He is much respected; is a -magistrate, and a resident; and, in consequence, knows the value of his -land. He considers, and administers to the wants of his tenants, and, -instead of extorting from them a rent they would be compelled to starve -themselves to pay, he limits it to a sum which will enable them to live -in comfort. - -It was twilight when I left Rhewlas, and by the side of the dingle I have -before mentioned, I paused to gaze once more upon the beauty of the -scene, and traced a few lines, expressive of my feelings, upon quitting -so delightful a solitude. - - Farewell to fair Rhewlas! and farewell to thee, - Thou pride of the vallies, thou fast flowing Dee! - Whose stream glides in brightness from Bala’s fair breast, - And wanders in beauty through regions of rest. - Farewell to thee, Rhewlas! how blest were my lot, - With friends round and near me, the gay world forgot, - Here, here, in the soft lap of quiet to dwell, - Farewell to thee Rhewlas! sweet Rhewlas, farewell! - - The bright golden summer hath fill’d thee with glee— - The song of the thrush, and the boom of the bee, - The wild flowers’ fragrance, the breath of the rose, - And green woods that kiss the dark stream as it flows: - To scenes grand and gloomy my footsteps may stray, - Where terror frowns dreadful along the wild way, - But beauty for aye in this region shall dwell, - Farewell to thee, Rhewlas! sweet Rhewlas, farewell! - -I returned to the inn, much pleased with my day’s entertainment, happy to -find that my ancle was comparatively easy, and ordered a car to be ready -on the following morning to convey me ten miles on the road to Dolgelly. - -Rising early, I found no inconvenience from my ancle; and, after a good -breakfast, took leave of my host, and his wife, of Martha Jones, and the -Bull’s Head, all of whom appeared anxious to see me comfortably seated in -the vehicle, and with kindest farewells, expressed a desire of speedily -seeing me again—all excepting the Bull’s Head, poor thing, which being a -dummy only looked a good bye; and taking every thing into consideration, -he looked it very well. - -The car in which I was bumped along the road, in every respect resembled -those delightful conveyances that rattle the astonished traveller from -Cork to Blarney. It is a sort of oval box, placed upon two wheels, with -a door behind, and with good wedging will contain four persons; but being -springless and cushionless, the passenger is jolted to his heart’s -content, that is, if his heart has been set on jolting; and, without -doubt, it is fine exercise for persons of sedentary habits, if by any -chance, their bones happen to escape dislocation. My knapsack (my -opposite, and only fellow passenger) and I, looked very black at each -other, as we bobbed up and down, like a cockney grocer’s apprentice upon -a high trotting horse; but I soon became resigned, and my knapsack having -shifted its berth for the bottom of the vehicle, seemed to rest more -comfortably than on the seat. Notwithstanding the inconvenience I -suffered from this carriage, I could not help admiring the extreme beauty -of the lake, as we pursued our course along its borders; sometimes, only -catching a glimpse of it, through the trees that shaded its delightful -margin. Its waters were smooth and motionless; not a ripple was visible -upon its surface; the lofty mountains reflected in its breast gave a -sombre tinge to the otherwise golden scene, and, as I looked into the -clear depths of the shadows, I thought, how peacefully one shattered by -the storms of life might sink beneath, and be at rest! - -After passing Llanthyn, (an estate belonging to Sir W. W. Wynn, who -claims the whole fishing of this beautiful piece of water, and has, by -putting a quantity of pike therein, destroyed all the trout and gwynniad -with which it once abounded), the scenery became wild, and cheerless, -until we reached - - - -THE VALE OF DRWSTYNRNT, - - -where, to my great satisfaction, the car stopped at the sign of the Welsh -Prince, a distance of ten miles from Bala, and eight from Dolgelly. -Being thoroughly tired with my ride, I thought I would endeavour to -obtain the proper use of my limbs, and rest myself by walking the -remainder of the journey. Dismissing the car, therefore, and strapping -my knapsack to my shoulders, I once more took the road. - -About a mile beyond the Welsh Prince, the valley becomes truly beautiful. -Waving woods adorn the mountains upon either side. The Wnion here begins -to be an important stream; and, though in its course towards Dolgelly it -is swelled by numerous mountain tributaries into a broad river, the trees -upon its banks form an impenetrable screen, which conceal it from the -traveller, and its hoarse murmur, as it dashes over the rocks that vainly -endeavour to intercept its way, alone remind him of its vicinity. At -length, I arrived at a spot, where a road leads over a bridge to the -opposite side of the river. Thinking this would be a proper place to see -the Wnion to advantage, I advanced to the centre of the bridge. The -effect is beautiful; hanging woods adorn the banks of the stream, lofty -ash trees, (around the trunks of which the ivy winds itself in snakelike -folds, feeding upon the tree that supports it), spread their proud heads -above, and form a pleasing shade, while below the river roars, as it is -precipitated beneath the arch in two large falls, that form a deep pool -on the opposite side. - -“It was in that pool,” said a voice at my shoulder, “that Hugh Evans -first saw the fairy.” Upon turning round, I saw an old man, much bent -with age, knitting hose. - -“What fairy, my good man?” said I, “and who was Hugh Evans?” - -“Ah! you are a stranger here, sir. Why, it’s a tale my grandfather used -to tell me, of a lad, who worked with him in the fields yonder.” - - - -HUGH EVANS, AND THE FAIRY. - - -Hugh was a handsome lad, and all the girls were mad for love of him; but -he was a prudent youth, and would not notice any of them, for he thought -as he could hardly earn enough to support himself, he had no chance of -supporting others. Well, one day as he was returning from work, he leant -over the bridge, where you are now standing, sir, and what should he see, -but a beautiful young creature, bathing in the deep water there. Well, -he knew it was a fairy, for he never had seen any thing half so beautiful -before; and he couldn’t for the life of him take his eyes from her, -though she was as naked (saving your presence) as when she was born. She -had long black hair, streaming down her shoulders, as glossy as a crow’s -wing, and the smallest feet, and hands, he ever beheld! and the beautiful -fairy said to him, “Hugh, handsome Hugh, why did you come hither? but, -since you are here, turn your head aside, till I get out of the stream, -and then I’ll come and talk to you.” And Hugh did as he was bid, for he -was too much in love to deny her any thing; and, before he could recover -his surprise, there was the fairy, close by his side, in the dress of a -neat country lass. And her snowy feet, and her raven locks, red lips, -and sparkling eyes, made Hugh’s heart knock at his ribs, like a smith’s -hammer on the anvil. So what does he do, but drop down upon his knees, -and swore he was dying for love of the angel. “I’m no angel at all,” -says she, “but a foolish body of a fairy, that has fallen in love with -handsome Hugh, and, if you’ll consent to my wishes in one respect, I’ll -be a fond wife to you all the days of your life.” Hugh was delighted to -hear her talk, and he promised to do every thing she wished. “All I -desire,” said she, “is that you will permit me to leave you every night -at twelve o’clock for one hour, and never attempt to follow me, or ask -where I have been. But, if you follow me, you will never see me again, -and you will only have to thank your own folly and rashness for it.” -Hugh promised faithfully, and the fairy provided him with money enough to -buy a neat little cottage on the hill yonder, and to stock it with a cow, -pigs, and poultry. He likewise bought ten acres of land, and every body -wondered how Hugh Evans became so rich on a sudden, but they supposed it -was his wife’s fortune, though they never could find out who she was. -For many years they lived together, and she bore him two girls, both -resembling the mother, and their comeliness was the talk of the country. -Marriage had no power to destroy the beauty of the fairy’s form or face, -for eternal youth and loveliness were part of her portion. - -But Hugh got jealous of a neighbour, whom he used to invite to his house -in the winter evenings, and he fancied that his wife paid him more -attention than was necessary. Until that time, he never cared about her -absence at midnight but the “green eyed monster;” whispered to him that -she had other than honest motives, for absenting herself from home at -that late hour. And one night, when his neighbour, Davie Jones, happened -to be more animated than usual with the good woman his hostess, who was -always desirous of making Hugh’s friends welcome, he gave her a kiss at -parting that went to the heart of poor Hugh; and he determined to look -after her that night when she left his bed, to discover if his suspicions -were well founded. Accordingly, pretending to sleep, he watched his wife -when she rose up. The first thing she did was to go to her children, -whom she kissed, and by the light of the moon, which shone brightly -through the casement, he saw her suddenly (without the aid of toilet -labour) arrayed in a gossamer robe of rose coloured pink, through which -her beautiful skin was dimly perceptible, and her exquisite form fully -displayed to his astonished eyes; the right arm and breast were bare, -while the drapery was secured upon the left shoulder, and at the waist -with clasps of costly gems. - -“Her black luxuriant ringlets, contrasted with her snowy neck, her dark -eyes flashing with delight, and her red pouting lips,” said poor Hugh, -“made me motionless with admiration, which was increased by seeing her -leap, through the open casement! Terrified lest she should be dashed to -pieces by the fall—filled with fury at her being thus decked out to meet -her paramour, with desperate eagerness I darted out of the window in -pursuit. The height was considerable. I caught a glimpse in my descent, -of her fairy form as she reached the summit of the hill, and then all -sense forsook me. When restored to consciousness, I found myself -stretched upon my bed; both my legs broken by the fall, and my head -sorely bruised. Upon asking for Lleucu, my wife, I was told she had -never been seen since I beheld her. My friend Davie was attending me -affectionately, bathing my temples with cold lotions; and my heart smote -me for my suspicions. Night came, and, as the hour approached when -Lleucu departed, I became restless and feverish, when a voice, which I -knew to be Lleucu’s, entered my chamber; it sang as follows: - - “Farewell Hugh, handsome Hugh, - Don’t forget thy poor Lleucu! - O’er thy limbs I spread a charm, - And to-morrow, free from harm, - To thine honest labour hie, - To support our progeny. - Oh, protect their tender years, - Bless my hopes and soothe my fears! - Farewell, Hugh, handsome Hugh, - Don’t forget thy poor Lleucu!” - -“I would have given my life to have seen her again,” continued Hugh; “but -I lost her for ever. The next morning, faithful to her promise, I was -indeed perfectly free from pain; my limbs were as strong as at the moment -when I sprang from the window; but my heart was broken.” - -“May be, sir, you’d like to buy a pair of stockings or mittens,” said the -old man, without pausing to notice the effect his tale had upon me, and -pulling the articles out of his coat pocket as he spoke. I could not -resist the appeal, and, giving him the price he demanded, I pursued my -journey towards Dolgelly. Nearly the whole of this lovely valley is the -property of Sir Robert Vaughan. - -I was meditating upon the romantic tale of the old man, when suddenly a -turn in the road and an opening in the dell revealed to my delighted eyes -the celebrated mountain called Cader Idris. - - [Picture: Cader Idris, from the Bala Road] - - - -CADER IDRIS, - - -the loftiest mountain in Merionethshire, and the second in North Wales, -is said to be 950 yards in perpendicular height from Dolgelly Green. -Cader Idris literally means “Idris’s chair,” where he is supposed to have -studied astrology; and Idris is a name attributed to Enoch, the founder -of astronomy. Mr. Edward Jones, to whom the public are indebted for his -learned and ingenious work, entitled “The Bardic Museum,” observes that -“Cær Idris implies the city of the learned:” and Mr. Rowland, in his -“Mona Antiqua,” mentions a place in Anglesea called Cær Idris, also Bôd -Idris, or “Idris’s abode or mansion,” in Yale, Denbighshire, which still -retains the name, as well as that of Llêch Idris, or “the shelter of -Idris,” a farm so called, at Trawsoynydd in Merionethshire, which also -may imply the grave of Idris. Idris is supposed to have flourished in -the third or fourth century, and his genealogy from an old manuscript, -runs thus:—“Idris Gawr ab Gwyddno, ab Tibion, ab Cunedda Wledig.” - -Snowdon and Cader Idris were formerly supposed to be the Parnassian hills -of Wales, and none but good bards could claim so elevated a seat. - -Idris, the champion or bard, invented the harp; or, if the Gomerian -Britons brought that instrument into the country when they first -inhabited the island, it seems to have been lost and forgotten; for Idris -is said to have invented something similar; but it is probable he only -made some improvement on the ancient harp, or perhaps his superior skill -in performing on it might have gained him that reputation. From all that -can be gathered from tradition, he was a learned man, an astrologer, and -a bard; and it is likely that the summit of this mountain was chosen by -him, to examine from thence the movements of the heavenly bodies, to -write his inspired verses, or to frame laws for the government and -benefit of his country. - -The walk from this spot to Dolgelly is exceedingly beautiful; and as the -tourist approaches the town before crossing the bridge which is flung -over the river Mawddach, a sign of some importance attracts his attention -upon the right: it runs thus: - - R. PUGH, - Guide General - To the Waterfalls, Cader Idris, - And all the curious scenery in - The vicinity of Dolgelly. - - N.B. Licenced to let saddled horses. - - - -DOLGELLY, - - -or Dolgellen, the Dale of the Hazel, is the principal market town in -Merionethshire, and the assizes are held here, alternately with Bala. -The town hall, the most important building, is a neat stone edifice, -erected in the year 1825, and cost £3000. It is built near the banks of -the river Wnion, (pronounced Oonion) and the court room is fitted up with -every necessary accommodation for the officers of justice. In the hall -is a very fine portrait of Sir R. W. Vaughan, Bart., painted by Sir M. A. -Shee, F.R.A. - - [Picture: Parliament House of Owen Glyndwr] - -Part of an old building, called “Cwrt Plâs yn-y Drêv,” or the Town-hall -Court is still remaining, amongst a range of wretched hovels, at the back -of the post office, in which a parliament was held by Owen Glyndwr. The -county jail at the outskirts of the town is of a semicircular form, built -of stone, and was erected in 1811, at an expense of £5000. - -St. Mary’s Church is a neat limestone edifice, of Grecian architecture, -with a handsome tower, and an expansive nave. In it is an ancient -monument of an armed knight, who is represented in a suit of mail, -helmet, a neck guard, a sword in his hand, and a dog at his feet; a lion -passant gardant is on his shield, upon which is inscribed: “Hic jacet -Mauric Filius Ynyr Vychan.” There is a modern one lately erected to the -memory of Baron Richards. - -The town is celebrated for a manufacture of coarse woollen cloths and -flannels, called webs. The old town hall is used for various purposes; -English church service is performed there every other Sunday; it is also -used as a national school, and children are there taught to sing the -church psalms. It is likewise known as the theatre, and a Mr. Glover -(son of Mrs. Glover, of the London theatres) is the manager. It is kept -open sometimes for two months successively; admittance to boxes 2_s_, pit -1_s_. - -Those fond of fine scenery should ascend the mountain from the north side -of the vale, to obtain the best view of the town, as it lies sheltered at -the foot of the majestic Cader Idris, which rears its lofty shoulders in -the clouds. - -Clustering woods adorn the opposite range of mountains, as they slope in -irregular masses westward to the ocean; and in the midst may be -distinguished the residences of Mr. Reveley and Captain Anwyl. - -The river beautifully meandering through the green meadows, the solemn -quietude that prevails around, disturbed only by the sound of the church -clock, marking the progress of the fleeting hours with lengthened tone, -which, like the music of another world, sweeps through the enchanting -vale, combine to render this a place where those not wedded to routs, -masquerades, gambling and licentiousness, might wish to live and die. - -Dolgelly contains several good inns, of which the most frequented are the -Golden lion, the Angel and the Ship. Comfortable lodgings may likewise -be obtained, at a cheap rate, by those who desire to remain in the -neighbourhood for the purpose of making excursions to the falls, Kymmer -Abbey, and Nannau Park, the fishing stations, Dol y Gamedd on the Avon, -Llyn Cregenan, Llyn Gador, Llyn Geirw, Tal y llyn, &c. {176} - - - -DOLUWCHEOGRYD, - - -the residence of Mr. Roland Williams, is delightfully situated on the -side of a mountain rising from this vale. I have read of a man who made -search through the world for true hospitality, and returned to his cell -without finding it. It is certain that he never entered the abode of Mr. -R. Williams, which is the habitation of unaffected kindness, unpresuming -intelligence, and unostentatious hospitality—the retreat of peace, love -and friendship, where the stranger is received with warmth and -cordiality, his wants anxiously anticipated and administered to, where -the cheerful glass is rendered doubly valuable by the accompaniment of a -hearty welcome, and where the administering hands of the fair inmates -render every species of generosity doubly dear to the favoured individual -who is admitted into that happy sanctuary. The only feeling of regret I -experienced while at Doluwcheogryd was occasioned by the necessity of -leaving it so soon. - -The tourist should not quit Dolgelly without visiting the waterfalls, -which, after heavy rains, are very magnificent. As I was still suffering -from the severe sprain, I was accommodated by Mr. Williams, who also -obliged me with his company, with a very fine horse to carry me to the -falls; and bold and sure-footed, he performed his duty nobly, in spite of -crags, cliffs, hills and hollows. - -Passing the house of Miss Madock, daughter of the late William Alexander -Madock, Esq., we came to the cataract. - - - -THE RHAIADR DU - - -is situated in the grounds belonging to this lady, called Dôl melynllyn. -Here the torrent leaps from a height of sixty feet over precipitous -rocks, and plunges with a violence that seems to shake the crags and -trees around, into a deep pool, from which it proceeds adown the dingle, -over black and broken fragments, to the river Mawddach. A footpath -conducts the tourist to the bottom of the falls, from which, stepping -upon some loose stones in the middle of the stream, he will obtain the -best view of the cataract. A walk of about three miles brings him to the -falls of the Mawddach and Pistyll y Cain, returning from which, he may -visit Y Vanner, or Kymmer Abbey, founded in 1198, by Meredith and -Griffith, lords of Merioneth, dedicated to St. Mary, and inhabited by -monks of the Cistertian order. It is not now, however, worthy of the -tourist’s attention. But Nannau Park, the seat of Sir Robert William -Vaughan, will afford much pleasure to those who visit it. The grounds -are thickly wooded, and the mansion is supposed to occupy the highest -ground of any residence in Britain. The approach to it is five miles in -length; it stands 702 feet above the level of the sea; and the park is -celebrated for its venison. Previously to the year 1814, there stood an -oak in this park which bore a name terrible to the ears of the peasantry: -it was called - - - -DERWEN CEUBREN YR ELLYLL, - - -which translated, means, “the hollow oak, the haunt of demons.” In this -oak, it is said Owen Glyndwr immured the body of Howell Sele, the -proprietor of this estate, who, while they were walking together, -treacherously shot an arrow at the breast of Glyndwr, who, however, -having armour beneath his doublet, fortunately received no hurt. The -cause of this treachery is said to have been the indignation expressed by -Owen at his kinsman’s refusal to join his cause to redress his country’s -wrongs. Glyndwr forced his body into the hollow of this oak, most likely -after having slain him, where, forty years after this event, a skeleton -was discovered. The chieftain, after laying waste the mansion and domain -of Sele, hastened to join his friends. Sir W. Scott has written a very -beautiful poem upon this legend, which will be found in the fifth note to -his sixth canto of Marmion, and is called the “spirit’s blasted tree.” -In 1813, this monarch of the wood fell to the ground. - -The country from Dolgelly to the mouth of the river is well worth a -journey of three hundred miles to visit, even though there were no other -objects worthy of notice in North Wales, and will amply compensate the -most eager researcher after the sublime and beautiful. - -At a turn of the coach road from a place called Te-gwyn, a splendid view -of Cader Idris is obtained, particularly in the evening, when the mists -arise from the numerous lakes in the vicinity, like volumes of smoke from -a domain of fire, curling in fantastic forms around the mountain’s waist, -leaving its summit stern and clear in an unclouded sky—like a proud giant -surveying with disdain the dwarfish host of which he is the leader. - - Thou mighty Cader, whose commanding head - Is alway canopied with winter’s snow, - Whose form is rent in many a chasm dread, - Adown whose sides the dashing torrents flow, - And in primeval majesty still throw - Their flakes of foam into the gulph below! - Mine eyes dwell on thy terrors, and my heart - Expands and trembles with a nameless glow! - Wildest of all the mountain kind thou art, - The rampart that protects old Cambria’s heart. - - Land of the free! amid thy giant hills, - Whose regal heads appear to prop the skies, - Oh what a thrilling awe my bosom fills - While gazing on thy dark sublimities! - Mountains on mountains, peaks on peaks arise, - Like tents belonging to some Titan race, - Who choosing highest ground, nighest the God, - Again defy the thunderer, face to face, - From heights more vast than Alpine foot e’er trod, - And undismayed await his dreadful nod. - -Another noble view attracts attention, at a place called Glan -Mawddach—the broad arm of the sea, stretching for miles between the -rugged mountains, which, shrouded in veils of silvery mist, fling their -dark shadows into the depths of the water. Proceeding onwards, the seat -of the late A. Wynne, Esq., called Athog, now the residence of Mr. -Fowden, becomes conspicuous upon the south side of the mouth of the -Mawddach, and beyond the extremity of the Bay Celylin point, and the -church of which the Rev. J. Parry is rector. The bishop has the power of -appointing a curate; but Mr. Parry retains the tithes to himself. -Arriving at - - - -BARMOUTH, - - -the coach stopped at the Cors-y-gedol arms; but I proceeded to the -Commercial inn, where there is very good accommodation, and a good -look-out seaward. A warm bath of sea water refreshed me; and by the star -light I strolled upon the sands, which are very hard and pleasant to walk -upon, while my repast was preparing at the inn. The night was calm and -serene, and my mind naturally adapted itself to the surrounding scene. -“The brave o’erhanging firmament—the majestical roof fretted with golden -fire,” appeared to me far from being “a foul and pestilent congregation -of vapours.” My soul took wing, and bounded from star to star, leaping -the realms of space, and plunging into infinity, till wearied with its -immeasurable flight, it resought its earthly tenement, and my body, which -it left immoveable, as if transformed to marble, resumed its functions. -The low moan of the ocean swam on my ear, like heavenly music. A light -breeze brought with it delicious freshness; and, as I looked towards the -land, all seemed as quiet as the abode of peace. The lights from the -houses had a pleasing effect, as they streamed through the windows, row -above row, under and upon the side of the overhanging cliffs. - -I returned to “mine inn,” and my meal being despatched, retired to bed. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - -Description of Barmouth—Sketch of the Town—The Estuary—Friar’s -Island—Dinas Gortin—Earl of Richmond—Anecdote of the men of Ardudwy, and -the men of Denbighshire—Mostyn Hall—A pic-nic party—Llyn Cwm -Bychan—Carreg y Saeth—The Witch of Cwm Bychan—Legendary Tale—Bwlch -Tyddiad—A mountain ride and a regretful farewell. - - “The mountayne men live longer many a yeare - Then those in vale, in plaine, or marrish soyle; - A lustie hart, a cleene complexion cleere, - They have on hill that for hard living toyle; - With ewe and lambe, with goats and kinds they play, - In greatest toyles to rub out wearie day; - And when to house and home good fellowes draw - The lads can laugh at turning of a strawe.” - - CHURCHYARD. - -BARMOUTH, or Aber-Maw, derives its name from being situated at the -embouchure of the river Maw or Mawddach, which at the entrance is -obstructed by a bar. The old town, viewed from the sea, resembles a -fortress of some strength, hanging immediately over the sands. In most -cases a lofty situation is an advantage, but here it is the reverse; for -so steep is the side of the cliff on which it stands, that the -inhabitants of the upper regions are completely smoke-dried from the -chimneys of all the dwellings beneath. - -The new town stands at the base of the rock, and but for some mounds of -sand, that appear likely to grow into mountains by the influence of the -winds and waves, would inevitably be washed away by the spring tides. -Some of the fishermen’s habitations on the beach are at times buried in -the drifting sands; and, after a strong wind from the seaward, the -inhabitants generally labour hard to clear the obstruction from their -doors. - -Barmouth had few visitors during my stay, and from the report of those I -met with, is greatly decreasing in popularity, which says but little in -favour of the lovers of fine scenery. When the tide is at full, the -panorama around the estuary cannot be surpassed in beauty. The majestic -river winds amongst rocks, clad with purple heather, or projecting in -barren grandeur, that lift their jagged summits tier over tier, and peak -overtopping peak, while still tremendous, towering over all, the lofty -Idris looms in the back ground. Green hills and woody promontories, -forests that stretch into the dark recesses of the mountains, villas and -copsewood glens, give an endless variety to the romantic scene. - -The town contains about 2,000 inhabitants, and there is a manufactory of -flannels and woollen stockings. - -At noon, as I was basking upon the sands, or Friar’s island, which is -situated at the mouth of the river, I had the pleasure to see my new -acquaintance and friend gallop into the town, and old Charon having -ferried me from the island to the main land once more, I hastened to -welcome him, as fast as my damaged limb would suffer me. He proposed -driving me to Mostyn Hall, the seat of the Hon. E. M. L. Mostyn; which -being agreed to, I ordered dinner to be ready at our return, and we -started. The drive upon the Harlech road is bleak; upon the right, the -hills are barren; and seaward, beneath the road, is an extensive flat, -consisting chiefly of bog land and far from interesting. About a mile -and a half from the town, stands the church of Llan Aber, upon the -extreme verge of a cliff which overlooks the ocean. The Carnaervonshire -mountains have a fine effect stretching into the sea; of which the -Rivals, with their lofty peaks, are noble objects in the distance. -Following the chain, the eye rests for a moment upon Garn Bodean, and in -the flat between it and Garn Madryn is the town of Pwllhely. The chain -is resumed at Rhew mountain, and terminates at Aberdarron point, three -leagues from which is Bardsey Island, a conspicuous and interesting -object; for there dwelt the bards of old, amongst whom were numbered the -fathers of science, the national interpreters, musicians, and -legislators, priests, and princes of Cambria. With their oratory they -soothed the savage ignorance of mankind into civilization and knowledge, -and polished their minds with the powerful aid of music and poetry. -After the dreadful slaughter of the monks of Bangor, those who survived -took shelter upon this island. A few ruined walls alone remain of the -ancient abbey; and the inhabitants, who do not exceed one hundred -persons, support themselves chiefly by fishing. - -About three miles from Barmouth, upon the summit of the mountain called -Dinas Gortin, are the remains of a military encampment, and near to the -town there stood a tower, where it is said the Earl of Richmond used to -conceal himself, when he visited his secret allies in this part of the -country. - -Near the military station, are the tombs of the celebrated men of -Ardudwy; who, in imitation of the Roman robbers, made an excursion into -Denbighshire, and overcoming the men, forcibly tore the women from their -families, and returned in triumph with them to their own country. - -But the men of Denbighshire, rallying, pursued the spoilers, and -overtaking them in the pass of Drws ardydwy, routed them with great -slaughter. But the infatuated women had by this time conceived so -extraordinary a passion for their violators, that rather than survive -their loss, or perhaps more probably, to escape the fury of their former -husbands, they drowned themselves in a lake, which is called the pool of -Morwynion. - -About two miles further, a road up a steep ascent, conducted us to a fine -avenue of trees, through which we passed, and at the termination of it -came to a handsome gateway, called Pat Mawr, which admitted us into the -mansion of Cors y gedol, which has nothing in it to interest the tourist. -The interior of the building is incommodious and inelegant. The -drawing-room contains a few wretched portraits and high-backed chairs; -and the rest of the apartments are meanly furnished. The only object of -interest is a window, out of which the Earl of Richmond, afterwards Henry -VII, is said to have leaped, when a party of Richard III’s soldiers -attempted to apprehend him; it is called the king’s window. - -We returned to Barmouth by the sea shore, and, after a most delightful -drive upon Neptune’s boundaries, arrived at the inn, where the evening -was passed in conviviality, tempered with prudence, and sweetened by -social and interesting conversation. As I had determined upon proceeding -to Harlech the following day, my companion was resolved to make the -journey as agreeable as possible, and requesting me to forward my -knap-sack &c., by the coach, informed me that he would be ready to -accompany me in the morning. Requesting him, therefore, to be early at -breakfast, we parted for the night. - -After despatching a hasty meal next morning, the word was given “to horse -and away.” My old favourite who bore me so gallantly to the black -cataract, was again resigned to my care, and I to his, gentle as a lamb, -proud as a war horse and agile as an antelope. I felt like an Arab, on -his steed, and I thought I could defy the winds to overtake me. We -proceeded once more to Mostyn Hall, which was the appointed spot of -rendezvous for a pic-nic party. Here I had the happiness of meeting some -of the choicest flowers of the Welsh Highlands. Youth, beauty, freedom, -and innocence, beamed from the laughing eyes and unsullied cheeks of our -fair companions. The “how d’ye do’s?” “glad to see you,” “fine morning,” -&c. &c., being ended, we moved forward in a formidable cavalcade. Mirth, -wit and pleasure played on the lips and sparkled in the eyes of the whole -party; and the animals that bore us seemed to partake of the general -feeling, by pricking up their glossy ears, and bounding over the rugged -road with more spirit than prudence. Much mirth was occasioned by the -opening of gates, and crossing of brooks. At length, the party plunged -into a beautiful wood. I paused upon an eminence, to mark the effect as -they descended; it was picturesque in the extreme, as at intervals, -through the openings, I caught a partial glimpse of the troop, pursuing -their cheerful way down the steep path. Pleased with the sight, I passed -the party at a gallop, and arriving at the foot of the hill, remained -upon a bridge, close by the woodman’s cottage, which crosses a mountain -stream, watching their approach. - -It was delightful to see them advancing one by one through the thick -foliage which hung on either side of the path, and arching over their -heads. On arriving at the foot of the descent, the party drew up, and, -had an artist been among us, I am confident he would have produced a -picture, which, even on the lifeless canvass, would have delighted the -connoisseurs of Somerset House. - -The variety of costume, the colour of the horses, the general sensation -of delight which lighted up the features of the gay group; the -picturesque cottage and bridge, the broad rushing stream, the waving -woods, with now and then a glimpse of the sterile mountains, peeping -above the beautiful fertility, formed a landscape which Salvator Rosa -himself would have been delighted to delineate. - -Penetrating through a woody maze, a glen upon our right, and huge wild -masses of rock towering above our heads, we passed Crafnant; a house -situated in the deep shade of the lonely wood, the residence of Mr. Owen, -a surgeon; who, from our not having for a long range of country -encountered a civilized residence, barring the woodman’s cottage, I felt -half inclined to think was only attendant on the quadrupeds of the -mountain. The rocks now assumed a wild and threatening aspect upon our -left, as we emerged into a more open track, and entered upon the domain -of Dolwreiddiog, where Mr. Mawhans has a snug shooting box, a little -beyond which, commences perhaps the wildest scenery in North Wales. -Descending by a rocky path, we came to - - - -LLYN Y CWM BYCHAM, - - -or, the lake of the little hollow, on the opposite margin of which, the -wild and dismal Carrey-y-Saeth, the rock of the arrow, rears its black -head in fearful grandeur. Cwm Bychan, is a grassy dell, surrounded on -all sides by the most frightful sterility; which while we gazed with -wonder on the sublimity of the scene, made us shudder at the utter -desolation it presented. A poor cottage stands on the farther end of the -valley, from which, having obtained a plentiful supply of milk, we -dismounted, and, fastening our steeds to the gates, we seated ourselves -under the shade of two trees, upon the inviting grass, which, like the -smiles of the world, proved but too treacherous; many a scream and laugh -announcing that the boggy soil had paid no respect to the garments of -either sex. Stones were therefore procured, and, having ranged them in a -magic circle, the whole party seated themselves to partake of the good -cheer, which a sturdy Welshman had borne upon his shoulders, and who now -advanced into the middle of the ring. Knives and forks began to play -with astonishing celerity. Fowls, ham, tongue, &c. &c., vanished as if -by enchantment; and mirth and good humour added zest to the repast. - -In this hollow there dwelt a witch called Janet, and a story is told, -which, as its wildness is well adapted to the scenery, I will endeavour -to relate. The circumstances are said to have been confessed by old -Janet, when under the last torture. - - - -THE WITCH OF CWM BYCHAN. - - -In the year 1647, when the Parliamentary forces were besieging the castle -of Harlech, there happened to be a sturdy trooper, named Jacob -Strong-ith-arm, amongst them, a raw-boned man, of about forty years of -age, who had a most sanctimonious visage, and a strong nasal twang, which -the hypocrites he commanded generally affected as the acceptable tone in -which the Lord delighted. He had in his youth been a butcher’s boy; but -sanctity and the cutting the throats of the royalists had elevated him to -the rank of captain in Oliver’s army. This man being stationed under -General Mytton, during the siege of Harlech Castle, fancied himself in -love with Mary Carrol, the daughter of a farmer in the neighbourhood, who -was shrewdly suspected of being a favourer of the besieged party. This, -however, Jacob did not choose to notice; and, whenever an assault upon -the castle was repulsed by the royalists, he returned to lay siege to the -heart of Mary Carrol, who had an utter abhorrence to all fanatics and -sanctified faces. - -“Verily, Mrs. Mary Carrol,” he would say, “I love thee!” - -“And by the honour of a cavalier,” replied the maiden, “I love thee not, -Jacob;” for she concealed not her attachment to the royal party, although -her father constantly cautioned her to do so. - -Long and vainly did Jacob endeavour to obtain the young girl’s -affections. At length, he bethought himself of Janet, the witch of Cwm -Bychan, whose fame was spread for many a mile the country round; and one -evening in March a man muffled in a horseman’s cloak was seen stumbling -over the broken rocks and patches of broom and furze that impeded his way -to the cottage where she lived. The moon was obscured by the density of -the atmosphere, and small dark remnants of clouds swept midway through -the valley, portending heavy rain and tempest. Often did he kneel and -lift his trembling hands, as if in prayer, as he approached the cottage, -and many times did he turn round affrighted, believing he heard a brownie -brush behind him. At length, he saw a small white dog running towards -him, wagging its tail, and looking very glad to see him. Notwithstanding -all these tokens of welcome, the teeth of Jacob chattered in his head, as -he followed his canine conductor, and his heart sank within him. - -When he came to the door, it seemed to fly open without the aid of hands, -and, in the middle of the hut, over a turf fire, sat Janet the witch. -“Come in!” said she, and repeated these doggerel lines: - - “Thou lovest a young and a pretty bird, - And little she cares for thee; - But Mary shall carol, and love thee well, - If thou’lt give gold to me.” - -“By the devil and all his imps, Janet,” said Jacob, mustering up all the -courage he could to support his profanity, “I’ll give thee a hundred good -pounds if thou wilt make her love me.” - -“It’s a bargain!” quoth Janet, and she griped his hand till he thought he -felt all the blood in his body running out at his fingers ends, and then -she gave him this warning: - - “When the change is wrought, shouldst thou in aught - ’Gainst thy free oath rebel, - Soon shall, in dole, Harlech’s bell toll - A sinner’s parting knell!” - -“Go thou to Mary’s cottage to-morrow morning by the ninth hour; thou -shalt find her mind altered, and on the third morning will I call on thee -for the fulfilment of thy promise. Away!” - -As she spoke, he found himself suddenly whisked away into the centre of a -furze bush, where, stuck fast, he stood gaping at the door of the -cottage, which closed against him, as if by enchantment, and all was as -quiet as before he had entered it, save the whistling wind and the -driving rain, which the clouds now discharged in torrents. - -A festival was to be held that night on the side of Mount Atlas, and all -witches were desired to attend and join in the revelry, at the command of -his imperious majesty, Satan himself; and, no sooner had Jacob departed, -than old Janet began to anoint herself, singing her incantations all the -while. - - “To thee, to thee, thou mighty one! - Whose name is big with fear, - I pay my adoration deep, - While I anoint me here; - - And in this ointment I have put - Mixtures of mighty power, - To aid my flight, through the night, - To thee, at trysting hour. - - The Lady Gordon’s fav’rite child - I’ve roasted for this night, - And thus its fat upon my lids - I drop to aid my sight. - - Come dance around, my fav’rite imps, - Robin and Prick-ear come! - Twice must the ocean wide be crossed - Ere we again come home. - - With serpents’ oil I smear my cheeks, - To smooth my wrinkled skin, - And outward wear the show of youth, - Though all is old within. - - With blood of matricide I dye - My lips to ruby red, - And with the deep black soot of hell - The white locks of my head; - - With tints from murdered virgin’s face - I gaily deck my own, - Till either cheek appears to wear - A rose flower newly blown; - - Come dance around, my favourite imps, - Robin and Prick-ear come, - Twice must the ocean wide be crossed, - Ere we again come home.” - -Her preparations being completed, she mounted upon the back of Robin, and -attended by Prick-ear, flew through the air to the witches’ festival. - -The inhabitants of Mauritania, who resided in the vicinity of Mount -Atlas, were struck with fear and wonder at the flickering lights and -fitful sounds of numerous instruments that were seen and heard upon the -mountain’s sides. Loud peals of laughter and shouts of merriment -astonished the peasantry, for many miles around! Glad enough was the -arch-fiend to see old Janet, who was a favourite, and he knew she had -done his service ably. She knelt down, and did him homage, repeated the -accursed prayer, and recounted to him the deeds she had performed since -the last merry meeting,—at which he smiled, and gave her a smack that -sounded like the report of a piece of ordnance; and back to back, with -arms locked together, did they whisk it about, to the great delight of -the assembly; after which, Prick-ear, who had assumed his human shape, -led her to the feast, and whispered soft words into his mistress’s ear; -and they kissed and toyed, as did the rest; and in mirth, love, and -jollity, the night passed rapidly away. But Janet forgot not in her -mirth, to beg a boon of Satan, which was, that he would turn the -inclinations of Mary Carrol upon the trooper, Jacob Strong-ith-arm, which -being granted, the usual ceremony at parting was performed, and again -crossing the ocean, she arrived at Cwm Bychan before the dawn, with her -attendant imps. - -With a fluttering heart, Jacob knocked at the door of his mistress, on -the morning after his adventure with old Janet, and could scarcely -believe his good fortune, when he saw Mary, with smiles of delight, -hasten to the door, to welcome him; and he inwardly blessed the old witch -for having performed her promise so faithfully. He spoke of love to -Mary, and she heard him without a frown; and so impatient was the -accepted lover, that the third day was appointed for the marriage to take -place. But Jacob thought no more of the witch who had brought about his -good fortune. - -The third morning came, and the bells were ringing merrily the wedding -peal for Mary Carrol and Jacob Strongith-arm, and all their friends were -seated at breakfast in the bride’s cottage, when, as the clock struck -nine, three distinct and heavy knocks were heard at the door, which being -opened, old Janet presented herself before the astonished party, for they -all believed she had evil communication with Satan. - -The bridegroom grew red with shame and passion, and when Janet told him -she had come for the payment he promised, he vowed, if she did not quit -the house, he would tie her neck and heels, and fling her out of the -window. This threat made Janet wrathful, and with heavy maledictions -that struck terror into the hearts of all the company, she turned her -back upon them, and departed from the house. - -No sooner had she quitted it, than a new wonder arose—the bride flew -hastily to her apartment, nor could all her friends prevail upon her to -quit it. Her former dislike to Jacob returned with redoubled violence. -She refused to become his bride, and kneeling down returned thanks to -heaven for the fate she had escaped. All was confusion. The -disappointed bridegroom with dreadful threats of vengeance, dashed -furiously out of the house, in the direction of Cwm Bychan. - -Rage subdued fear in his breast, and the pathless rocks, over which he -had to scramble, seemed to add fresh fuel to his flames. Long and loudly -did he knock at the door of Janet’s hut, until maddened with delay, he -with his foot sent it flying from its hinges, and there he saw a figure -resembling himself modelled in wax, with a needle passed through the -body, placed before a fire—and on a sudden Jacob began to sweat with -fear. All the horrors attached to this well known ceremony amongst -witches, rushed to memory. He remembered the story of King Duncan of -Scotland, which he had often read over, with pious terror, in the pages -of Hollingshed, who was in this way tortured by a witch, and, with -prayers and ejaculations, he ran from his effigy, stumbling and breaking -his knees over the rugged stones, while thorns and briars tore his -quivering flesh, as, unconscious of the pain, he scrambled through. At -length, in horrid plight, breathless and faint, he reached his quarters -in the town of Harlech, where he was shortly after put to bed in extreme -agony, both of body and mind. - - “Weary seven nights, nine times nine, - Did he dwindle, peak, and pine.” - -Meanwhile, General Mytton was hotly besieging the castle, which was -defended, with almost unprecedented bravery, by William Owain, the -governor, with no more than twenty-eight followers. In vain did the -clang of arms strike upon the warlike ears of Jacob;—he might have -exclaimed, in the language of Othello— - - “Farewell the plumed troop, and the big war - Which makes ambition virtue—oh farewell!” - -But, as he never read such profane authors, he contented himself with a -pious curse or two every second on the witch who had reduced him to such -a state of feebleness. He who was once foremost in the onset, whose -voice would animate his soldiers with a religious zeal, and oft reclaim -the fortune of the fight—the brawny, fearless Presbyterian lay like a -puling infant on his bed, wasted and pale, with scarcely breath enough to -render himself audible to those around him. - -Sorely did Mytton need his aid, his reckless daring in leading an -assault—for the stimulating energy of his example was electric. - -One night, when he heard the loud shouts of the enemy, and the declining -voices of his friends, Jacob grasped his sword, and, starting from his -bed, rushed, or rather staggered, to the barbican, which had been scaled -by a small body of the parliament forces, who surprised the warders at -the drawbridge, which crossed the fosse upon the inside, when, from the -interior a body of the royalists rushed with desperate valour, the -assailing party were forced to retreat by opening the massy gate of the -barbican, but not without leaving many wounded and dying comrades in the -deep fosse, into which they had been thrown during the struggle on the -drawbridge. At this critical moment, when disgrace appeared to hang over -the banner of his leader, Jacob, _en chemise_, forced his way into the -scene of action, striking terror to the foe, who took him for an -apparition, and invigorating the hearts of his friends. The royalists, -who had advanced, were driven back again in their turn. - -But the hope of victory betrayed the besiegers to their ruin. Jacob, -determined to take the castle or die, with a huge axe was cutting through -the drawbridge to deprive his followers of all hope of escape, by -retreating that way; and the battle became furious beneath the double -portcullis which crowns the principal entrance. The besieged were driven -nearly into the inner court, when the mighty voice of Owain cried -aloud—“Let fall the portcullis!” So promptly was this order obeyed, that -the outer and inner grating enclosed the besiegers, as in a cage, and -left them entirely at the mercy of their conquerors. - -Fortunately for Jacob, his weakness prevented him from carrying his -purpose into effect, and he retired, covered with confusion, to his bed, -while his companions whom he was forced to leave behind, resigned their -arms, through the inner grating, to their enemies, and were then -committed to the dungeons of the fortress. - -On the morning after this defeat, a party of men, who had been sent into -the mountains to forage for goats, sheep, or provender of any kind that -might fall in their way, chanced to pass near old Janet’s dwelling, and -they resolved to revenge the cruel persecution of their captain, if they -could light upon the witch, who had occasioned his long sufferings. -Accordingly, they entered the cottage, where they perceived, before the -dying embers of a turf fire, the waxen image with which she worked the -charm, almost wasted away, but still bearing a strong resemblance to -Jacob Strongith-arm. This they seized, and instantly committed to the -water, placing, at the same time, some dried wood upon the turf, which, -with the aid of some gunpowder, was ignited. A quantity of dried furze -and heather was then piled upon it, and, in a short time, the flames -communicated with the rafters of every part of the building. - -As they turned from the cottage, one of the party perceived an old woman -floating upon a plank on the lake, twisting and jumping, capering and -splashing, in a manner that made his hair stand on end. It was old Janet -herself, whose imps had deserted her, or he would never have been able to -detect her at her pastime. There she floated, twirling about, sometimes -on one leg, and then upon the other, till all of them being convinced it -was the witch, they resolved to seize her, and convey her to the General. - -Three of them, named John Brown, James Haddock, and Joseph Stilt, being -the most courageous of the party, volunteered to capture her, though the -devil himself stood at her elbow, while she, not knowing that her imp, -Robin, whose power made her invisible to mortal eyes, had quitted her, -kept dancing on, without dreaming of any harm that could befall her from -the approach of mortals, although the plank upon which she stood nearly -touched the border of the pool. Suddenly, Joseph Stilt, who was the -foremost, roared out—“The witch! the witch!—we have her!” Janet then, -for the first time, felt afraid; but she still had some power left, and -Joseph Stilt, as he made a spring to come up with her, stuck fast in a -quagmire as deep as his chin, close to the edge of the lake, where he -remained storming, without the power to extricate himself. James -Haddock, who leaped over his head, sank to the bottom, and narrowly -escaped drowning. But John Brown, who always carried a verse of -scripture in front of his hat, calling on the Virgin for support, -alighted on the plank by the witch’s side, and, seizing her by the hair, -ferried her to a safe landing place, when his comrades, James Haddock, -and Joseph Stilt, having been assisted, by their fellows, out of -jeopardy, assisted him to convey her to Harlech, where they were told -that the dreadful exudations of Jacob had ceased, and, upon comparing -their accounts, they found that his recovery commenced at the very moment -when they flung his waxen effigy into the water, and set fire to the -witch’s hut. - -When Janet was brought before the General and Jacob Strongith-arm, she -laughed to see his once stout frame dwindled as it was, and her laugh -frightened them all; so they tied her to a stake, and then began to -question her; but she disdained to make any reply. They then tried the -torture of the thumb-screw, but Janet only spat in their faces, for the -devil was strong within her; and James Haddock lost his eye, from the -heat of her saliva. The soldiers marvelled at her obstinacy, and Jacob, -growing full of ire, commanded them to fire a harquebuss at her, if she -persisted in her stubbornness. But this threat only increased the -fiendish laugh of old Janet into a yell of scorn. All threats proving -useless, the harquebussier fired his piece. But how were they astonished -to see the witch grinning defiance at them all, and holding the ball up -between her right finger and thumb! Another was fired at her, which she -caught in the left! Stilt, mad to see her triumph thus, ran at her with -his sword, which shivered to pieces upon her breast; and all this time -the witch laughed, and spat at, and reviled them. At length, Brown, who -had first arrested her, remembering he had been told that a witch, if -bled in any of the veins that cross the temples would soon give up the -ghost, walked boldly up to her, when the devil, scared at his intentions, -instantly quitted his votaress, and she, left helpless, could only storm, -and rave, and curse, and beg for life. But Brown drew the keen blade -across the full purple veins, and, with a scream of terror, she fell to -the ground. - -Many crimes did she confess to the holy man, who attended her last -moments; besides the one just related, which render “the little hollow,” -a spot of fearful interest to the mountaineer, who, as he passes the lake -at nightfall, turns many an anxious glance behind, and fancies that he -hears, at times, the sound of unearthly voices in the gale, that sweeps -by him in this wild and lonely dell. - -The castle was soon after surrendered to the Parliament forces, by its -brave commander, who had the honor of knowing, that he was the last, who -yielded up the trust confided to him, by his sovereign. - - * * * * * - -Our repast being concluded, we again mounted our horses, and commenced an -ascent up a dank, cheerless hollow, called _Bwlch Tyddiad_. Nothing can -exceed the wildness of the scenery, by which we were surrounded. Huge -masses of rock, riven by the thunder bolt, or loosened by the frost, lay -scattered in every direction, while, towering upon either side, the -herbless mountains frowned, barren, black, grey, and terrible. - -Our horses, accustomed, I presume, to such excursions, picked their way -with the greatest care and safety, and my “Gallant Brown,” cleared every -impediment, as if he had been foaled amongst the Alps, and loved them -better than the verdant plain. Drawing nearer to the top of the cliff, -the shepherds had made a stair-like path of flat stones, along which our -cavalcade proceeded with caution; when suddenly we halted upon hearing -the distant halloos of travellers ascending the opposite side of the -mountain; and presently three persons, one of whom was leading a wearied -animal by the bridle, became distinctly visible. A shout of recognition -from our party roused all the echoes of the surrounding hills. The -figures, as they became more distinct, seemed magically transported with -myself into the heart of the Sierra Morena, where Cardenio, Don Quixote, -and Sancho Panza, appeared to me in their proper persons; for never was -description better realized, than in the figures that now presented -themselves. The first was a handsome, well formed man, with light brown -hair, which hung in plentiful thickness upon his shoulders; his untrimmed -beard, joined by overhanging moustachios, and the two being united to the -upper growth, by a pair of whiskers, the luxuriance of which shewed they -were permitted to grow in uninterrupted freedom. His throat was bare, -and his dress negligent. The second figure that attracted my attention, -was a very tall and extremely thin young man, with a serious cast of -features, that would have done honor to the knight of the woful -countenance. In his hand he led a jaded hack, which in the ascent seemed -to have yielded up three parts of its existence. Here then was the -Rosinante of Cervantes in a breathing form; while, by his side, a short -good humoured little man, with a huge portmanteau buckled on his back, -walked like a faithful squire, and made an admirable substitute for the -immortal Sancho; and, as he turned his eyes from precipice to glen, it -required no great stretch of imagination, to think they were wandering in -search of his beloved Dapple. We met upon a patch of green moss; and -here our hamper was again unpacked, to cheer the hearts of these toil -worn travellers. - - [Picture: View from Carreg y Saeth] - -By their advice, we ascended to the summit of the mountain, the view from -which was grand and extensive. To the eastward, a vast country lies -beneath, bounded by Cader Idris, the two Arrenigs, and a long range of -mountains. Immediately under the lofty eminence, upon which we rested, -was a small round lake, and the pass Ardudwy, which exceeds even the -celebrated Llanberris in rugged grandeur. The way by which our new -companions ascended was both laborious and dangerous; but they would not -have sacrificed the prospect now presented to them on any account. North -and south the eye glances over the summits of wild mountains, and to the -west the Carnaervonshire chain, cut in two, as it were, by a high -mountain, immediately before us, forms the shore of a noble sheet of -water, resembling a spacious lake, where the sea stretches its arm, into -the vale of Maentwrog, out of Cardigan Bay. The declining sun gave us -warning that it was time to quit these wilds, and make the best of our -way to the foot of the mountain. - -The return is extremely hazardous on horseback. The ladies of the party, -therefore, resigning their steeds to the conduct of some mountaineers, -and the gentlemen leading their horses by the bridle, commenced the -descent. But as I could not, from lameness, advantage myself by like -caution, and feeling confident in the tact, strength, and docility of my -favourite, I led the way, without experiencing the slightest symptom of -uneasiness. - -When we had proceeded about half way down, a circumstance occurred, that -occasioned some unpleasantness. A horse had broken loose from one of the -leaders, and at full speed came galloping down the steep and rugged -descent. The animal conducted by the tall, thin gentlemen, before -described, started as his fellow quadruped rushed by him, and, freeing -himself from control, dashed after him, at an alarming pace; leaving his -late master, with eyes starting out of their sockets, and mouth wide -open, with affright, his arms spread out, and his whole frame in -convulsions of terror, upon the top of a large stone, ludicrously -bewildered. My steed, evincing the truth of the proverb, “evil -communications” etc. for a moment lost his presence of mind, and -despising my efforts to restrain him, bounded over sundry perilous rocky -fragments, in desperate pursuit. However, by divers forcible arguments, -I at length succeeded in convincing him of his error, and he returned to -his duty. - -The two runaways were soon out of sight, and as we concluded they had -broken their necks, we moved rather solemnly to the bottom of the hollow, -where our fears were dissipated, by finding them quietly browsing in the -green meadows, where we had before seated ourselves at pic-nic. All here -remounted; the sun’s rays still lingering upon the heights of -_Carreg-y-Saeth_, but the pool below looked black and cheerless. As we -proceeded, the beautiful calm light of evening, the cool and refreshing -air, “the shard borne beetle, with his drowsy hum,” the forest flies and -midges dancing in the clear ether, the murmuring of mountain streams, and -the joyous notes of our little party, uniting with the sharp tones of our -horses’ shoes, clinking against the rocky fragments, formed a combination -of pleasing sounds and images in this romantic solitude, which I shall -ever remember with feelings of interest and delight. After riding about -three miles, surrounded by every charm that could make the time pass -pleasantly, we arrived at the place of parting. A road branching to the -right led directly to Harlech, a distance of about two miles; and here, -with a feeling of regret, I hardly ever before experienced, I took leave -of my kind conductor, and his agreeable friends, a man being appointed to -walk with me as far as Harlech, for the purpose of taking back his -master’s horse. - -Slowly and sadly I pursued my solitary ride, nor did I once address my -attendant, until I arrived at the inn, where dismounting, I committed to -his charge my gallant supporter throughout the day. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - -Harlech—The Inn—The Castle—Anecdote of Dafydd ap Ivan ap Einion—Road to -Maentwrog—View—A persevering Cobbler—The Oakley Arms—Pleasures of Fly -fishing—New Companions—Angling Stations—An Adventure—Road to Tremadoc—Tan -y Bwlch—Port Madoc Breakwater and Mountain Scenery described—Tremadoc—Tan -yr Allt—Pont Aber Glas Llyn—Lines written at the Bridge—Beddgelert—The -Inn—Story of a Pointer. - - “Rise from thy haunt, dread genius of the clime, - Rise, magic spirit of forgotten time! - ’Tis thine to burst the mantling clouds of age, - And fling new radiance on Tradition’s page: - See at thy call from Fable’s varied store, - In shadowy train the mingled visions pour; - Here the wild Briton ’mid his wilder reign, - Spurns the proud yoke and scorns the oppressor’s chain, - Here wizard Merlin, where the mighty fell, - Waves the dark wand and chaunts the thrilling spell.” - - _Prize Poem_, T. S. S. - - - -HARLECH. - - -THE Blue Lion Inn, built by Sir R. W. Vaughan, for the accommodation of -travellers and tourists, is most delightfully situated. A carriage road -from the north leads round to the front, which faces the sea; and forming -a semicircle, permits the vehicles to drive, through a gate on the south -end of the house, again into the high road. Great taste is displayed in -the erection of this pleasant building; the parapet wall, with its -circular turrets, in which seats are placed for the accommodation of -visitors, and the terrace with its neat shrubberies. I must also -acknowledge, that the kind attention of the landlord and his servants, -deserves the highest commendation. - -The view from the terrace is indescribably beautiful. The sea lies -stretched beneath; the majestic ruins of Harlech Castle stand upon a -rocky base, frowning in solitary grandeur upon the right; and beyond, the -long line of Carnaervonshire hills projects, like Cambria’s lance, -forbidding the waves to make further inroads upon her territories. - -Pwlhelli and Port Maddock are distinctly visible from this spot; and the -lovers of fine prospects may remain at the Blue lion for a week, without -wishing to stray further than the terrace in search of the sublime and -beautiful. The continual variety of light and shadow, with which the -mountains are alternately robed, the freshness of the air, and the solemn -majesty of the ruined fortress, form altogether a volume for the mind to -peruse with intense and unwearied interest. - - - -HARLECH CASTLE. - - -The present castle was built by Edward I. in 1283, upon the ruins of one -erected by _Maelgwn Gwynedd_, Prince of North Wales, in 530. It was -seized by the Welsh hero, Owen Glyndwr, during his struggle for freedom -against Henry IV, and was retaken about four years afterwards, by an army -sent by that monarch into Wales. After the defeat of Henry VI. at -Northampton, this castle afforded a retreat for his queen, but being -hotly pursued by the Lord Stanley, she was compelled to fly from hence -with great precipitation, leaving her jewels and other valuables behind -her. - - [Picture: Harlech Castle] - -In 1468, this place was in possession of Dafydd-ap-Ivan-ap-Einion, a man -of singular strength and beauty, and of unconquerable bravery. Being a -firm friend to the Lancastrian line, the Earl William of Pembroke was -despatched to reduce the fortress; and, after encountering incredible -difficulties, marching through the very heart of the British Alps, he at -length invested the castle, and committed the management of the siege to -his brother Sir Richard Herbert, a man equal in size and prowess to the -British commandant. The reply of the Welshman, when called upon to -surrender, deserves to be handed down as a specimen of bravery and -loyalty. He had never acknowledged the sovereignty of Edward; and for -nine years, had defied his threats. His answer was in keeping with the -line of conduct he had adopted: “Tell your leader,” said he to the -messenger, “that some years ago I held a castle in France against its -besiegers so long, that all the old women in Wales talked of me: tell -your commander, that I intend to defend this Welsh castle now, until all -the old women in France shall hear of it.” - -Famine, however, at last subdued him; but he yielded only upon honourable -terms, Sir Richard pledging himself for his safety. The king at first -refused to subscribe to the conditions; but Sir Richard, with a spirit -that cannot be sufficiently applauded, instantly informed his majesty -that he must take his own life first; for if he lived he would certainly -replace the Welsh chieftain in his strong hold again. The king was too -well acquainted with the value of Sir Richard’s services and scrupulous -honour, to persist in his unjust intentions. He therefore, ratified the -conditions, and pardoned the chief. But the brave Englishman was soon -after recalled from his military command. - -In the civil wars of Charles I. Harlech Castle was the last that held out -for the king, under the command of William Owain, who surrendered on the -ninth of March, 1647. - -Upon the side which faces the sea, the castle must have been impregnable; -the walls are scarcely distinguishable from the rocky base, the whole -being a continued surface of dark grey masonry; and the north and south -sides appear nearly as inaccessible. The gateway upon the eastward side -is situated between two immense rounders, resembling those of Conway and -Carnaervon. The form of the castle is a square, each side measuring -seventy yards, and at each corner is a round tower; but the turrets that -were once attached to them the unsparing hand of Time has destroyed. -Before the entrance is a deep fosse, cut in the solid rock; across which -a drawbridge was constructed for security and convenience. - -The principal apartments are on the eastward, or entrance, side of the -inner court. The banqueting hall is opposite; the windows of which look -out upon the green surface of the sea; and, on the right of the court, -there formerly stood a small chapel; the ruins of which are still -visible, the pointed window remaining entire. It is impossible to -conceive a finer view than is obtained from the towers of Harlech Castle. -With a clear atmosphere, the monarch of the Welsh mountains may be -distinctly seen, towering above his subject hills. The promontories of -Lleyn and Cricaeth Castle, are likewise objects of considerable interest; -the latter forming a head to a long neck of land that juts into the sea -from the Carnaervonshire coast, backed by a chain of noble mountains. -This castle likewise owes its foundation to Edward I. - -Harlech is one of those places the traveller leaves with regret, and a -feeling that he can never see any so beautiful again; and from this place -to the village of Maentwrog, the road increases in beauty every mile. - -The Bay of Cardigan, expanding to the ocean, lies beneath, on the left; -upon the right, wild rocks and woody hills alternately diversify the -prospect, and, approaching the northern extremity of the bay, the Traith -Mawr and Traith Bach, two arms of the sea (the former running up to Port -Madoc, and the latter into the vale of Maentwrog), are noble objects. - -The Traith Bach, bounded by mountains upon either side, prepares the -tourist for the heavenly quietude which reigns eternally in the bosom of -this earthly paradise; and, about two miles from the village, near a farm -house called Cemlyn, one of the most beautiful views of the valley lies -stretched before him. A woody dingle opens on the right, down which the -Velin Rhyd rushes impetuously, mingling its bright waters with the -smoothly meandering Dwyryd, which commingling, flow gracefully into -Cardigan Bay. - -In front, and upon the right of the vale, lies the little picturesque -village of Maentwrog, reposing at the foot of a lofty mountain. Fine -green meadow lands enrich the centre of the valley, through which the -river, like a silver serpent, “drags its slow length along.” Upon the -opposite side is seen the mansion of Tan y Bwlch, backed by a mountain -forest, and ornamented by a noble terrace in front, with pleasure grounds -and walks, which the eye loves to rest upon. - - [Picture: The Vale of Maentwrog] - -The road to Festiniog, at the extreme point of the landscape, winds up -the enclosing hills that fill up the back ground. To be appreciated, the -view must be seen: the most glowing description would fall incalculably -short of the reality. - -At this spot I was accosted by a very inquisitive personage. - -“Fine evening, sir.” - -“Yes.” - -“Walking far to-day, sir?” - -“Yes.” - -“A great many gentlemen come from London to see this valley, sir.” - -“I suppose so,” (trying to shake him off, but it would not do). - -“You come from London, I think, sir?” - -“Why do you think so?” - -“Only because a great many London people come this way, sir.” - -“But do not many other travellers come this road, who are not Londoners?” - -“Oh yes, sir, but I took you for a Londoner by the cut of your coat. -You’ve come a long way to-day, sir?” - -“I have, but how should you know that?” - -“By the condition of your boots, sir.” - -This was a hit I did not anticipate; for, truth to say I was nearly -bootless, at least the _soles_ had nearly left their _bodies_, upper -leathers I mean, and stood mortally in need of regeneration; and, as I -had not provided myself with a second pair, thinking they would prove -cumbersome in my knapsack, his remark was felt from toe to heel. - -“You’ll want these repaired, I dare say, sir, while you remain at the -Oakley Arms—comfortable inn—capital beds, sir.” - -“Why I think I shall, my friend; perhaps you can recommend me to a -cobbler, in the village yonder,” (pointing to Maen Twrog). - -“I am a boot maker, sir, in the village, and have cobbled, as you are -pleased to call it, the soles of all strangers in need, for the last -twenty years. My father performed that office before me; and I may say, -my all (awl) of life depends upon the gentlemen who visit our beautiful -valley.” - -“You are not employed then by the inhabitants of your native village?” - -“I _was_, sir; but a new comer, who wrote over his door ‘leather cutter,’ -cut me out; for I never found business enough to set up a shop, and so, -sir, I am obliged to watch for customers, to keep up my trade. Those -boots of yours, sir, will give me dinners for half the week, if you will -only let me give them welts, soles, and heel-taps. You’ve got a fine -foot, sir.” - -This piece of gross flattery did not prevent my telling him to follow me -to the inn, and receive the reward of his perseverance and industry. - - - -THE OAKLEY ARMS. -TAN Y BWLCH. - - -I was tired, and gladly resigned my dilapidated boots to the care of my -_soles’_ physician; who, with a most respectful bow, promised to let me -have them by eight o’clock on the following morning. - -Having partaken of a most excellent dish of fish, a small portion of -roasted mutton, strawberry tartlet, cheese, celery, &c., I thought I -should like to try my fortune in the lovely stream of Dwyryd. I -therefore requested the waiter to procure me the loan of a pair of shoes -or boots, suitable for the purpose, proposing to pay for the -accommodation. I was soon supplied, and, anticipating a delightful -evening’s sport, sallied forth with complete apparatus. - -How deceitful are the views of man! I cast my line—it was a fatal cast—I -struck at an imaginary or real rise, and in an instant all my hopes were -crushed; for my rod broke off at the second joint, and sailing down the -stream, was suddenly brought up by one of the flies hooking a fragment of -rock. With much trouble I recovered the shattered top pieces, but in -endeavouring to extricate my fly, my foot slipped, and I found myself up -to my waist in water, and my foot jammed between two pieces of rock at -the bottom, from whence I was glad to extricate it by leaving my shoe -behind. It was very unfortunate. I cursed my ill-luck, sat down upon -the bank, put up my flies, put my broken rod in its case, and prepared to -return to my inn. But—I had only one shoe! I endeavoured to recover the -lost one, but in vain. Doubtless it was buffetting its way amongst -rushing waters and fragments of rock, full half a mile off by this time. -How I should get to the Oakley Arms, through all the uneven stony ways, I -knew not. I could not hop all the way, it was very evident; and to -attempt to walk with but one shoe, would deprive me of the sole of my -foot. At this moment, taking out my silk handkerchief to wipe my -brows—ah!—the thing was settled. I bound it as many times doubled as I -could round my foot, tying it about with a part of my fishing line, and -in this lamentable state, I reached the house. - -No routed warrior from the field of battle ever looked more chop-fallen -than I, in re-entering my late happy dining-room. It was not an hour—no, -not an hour ago—when, all elate and joyous, I walked forth, pregnant with -hope and jollity. Look at me now—’twas lamentable! I rang the bell; the -waiter came in, and no sooner cast his eyes on me, than he broke into an -uncontrollable laugh. I confess I expected a very different reception, -and my first impulse was to kick him out of the room; but casting my eyes -upon my handkerchief-bound foot, turned the whole current of my feelings, -and I could not forbear joining in the laugh, for the soul of me. - -The waiter’s view of the case was undoubtedly the correct one. I felt -it, and it was actually with difficulty I accounted to him for my present -appearance, my ideas had undergone so complete a revolution from tragic -to comic! - -“Well—’tis a funny world,” said I; “bring me a pair of slippers, water to -wash, a bottle of port, and a cigar.” - -I was just in the marrow of my cigar, when two young gentlemen, who had -pedestrianized from Llanrwst since the morning, entered the room. They -were fair-haired Saxons, and particularly unacquainted with all they had -seen in their route. I requested them to join me, and they were pleased -to honour me with their company. But their stock of information being -remarkably small, I resolved within myself to avoid the route they -intended to pursue on the following morning, and understanding they meant -to visit Harlech Castle, I informed them I should pursue my way to -Tremadoc. As I could not extract any information from these tourists, I -called for pen, ink and paper, and amused myself with putting down the -events of the day, while one of the young men flung his legs upon the -sofa, and the other placed his feet on the fender. Deep sonorous notes -soon succeeded this arrangement, and I pursued my task without any other -interruption, until my attention was drawn to the heavy pattering of rain -against the window, and the whistling of a keen wind through the passage. -I felt chilly, and drew nearer the fire. The task I imposed upon myself -being finished, and the servant having brought me my bed candlestick, I -retired to rest, leaving my agreeable companions in the midst of a nasal -duet. - -Oh, the comforts of a clean room, clean sheets, and a good bed! These I -experienced at the Oakley Arms; and I arose refreshed, and eager to -commence my walk; but I was doomed to disappointment, for on drawing up -the blind of my window, a dark and dismal morning presented itself, the -rain falling in torrents, and the lovely valley transformed into a gloomy -gorge of rolling clouds. What’s to be done? thought I; jump into bed -again, answered my careful spirit. I obeyed the suggestion, and slept -another hour, when I again awoke, and on inspection found the day still -melancholy and tearful. - -I descended to the breakfast room, and there I found my quondam -companions in precisely the same attitudes I had left them on the -preceding night;—as motionless and silent, but their musical instruments -were out of order, I suppose, as they no longer sent forth their former -deep tones, and their eyes indeed were differently directed; the -gentleman on the sofa inspecting the ceiling; the other profoundly -scrutinizing a Dutch figure on the chimney-piece, with a foaming pot of -porter in one hand, and a short pipe in the other. It was neither Souter -Johnny, nor Toby Philpot; but I involuntarily roared out “dear Tom, this -brown jug,” &c. It was like an electric shock to the tourists. One -leaped from the sofa, and the other withdrew his feet from the fender -with precipitation; first stared at each other, and then both at me, in -mute astonishment. I cheerfully bade them good-morrow, and we sat down -to breakfast. - -Never did I pray more heartily for a shelter from the storm, than I did -now for a gleam of sunshine to cheer me in this horrid calm. These rival -Incubuses fretted me.—Ha! who’s that curtseying to me as she passes?—Oh -she opens her basket, intimating she has something to sell; they are -hose, I perceive. The rain increases rather than abates its violence. - -“Come hither, my girl,” said I, as I beckoned her to come in. “She will -assist in beguiling the tedious morning, - - “That like a foul and ugly witch - Does limp so tediously away.” - -And, having nothing better to do, I put the events of our interview into -rhyme. - - TRAVELLER. - - “Where art thou going, pretty lass? - The rain falls thick and fast; - Come in, and dry thy mantle, maid, - And shun the bleak cold blast.” - - GIRL. - - “I heed not, sir, the mountain gale, - Nor thickly falling rain; - For my poor mother lies at home - In sickness and in pain; - And I must haste to sell my work, - And much I have to spare, - That I may purchase winter store - To free her mind from care. - For she is old, and quite infirm, - And child hath none but me, - And oh her heart is yearning now - My face again to see.” - - TRAVELLER. - - “Cold is the heart that would not beat - To see that face of thine, - Where sweet simplicity hath traced - Her lineaments divine.” - She turned away her head to hide - A tear upon her cheek; - While piety beamed in her eye, - And resignation meek. - - GIRL. - - “Oh do not, do not stay me, sir, - For I must to the fair, - To sell my hose, and purchase food, - And things for winter wear.” - - TRAVELLER. - - “I’ll buy thy hose; thou shalt not walk - Beneath the drenching rain, - But tarry here until the sun - Shines brightly forth again.” - Her hose were bought, she sought her home - With smiles upon her face; - Her heart was light, her eyes were bright - Her every motion, grace. - And happy was the traveller’s heart - When bidding her farewell; - Her glance of gratitude, said all, - And more, than tongue could tell. - -By the time I had committed this little effusion to paper, the sun shone -out gloriously; and it had the astonishing effect of giving a sort of -animation to the mute gentlemen, who absolutely rose from their drowsy -postures and walked to the window. Thank heaven! I mentally exclaimed; I -have a chance now of getting rid of my “musty superfluity;” but I was -mistaken. - -“You will now be able to start for Harlech,” said I. - -“Why a—” drawled one, “I am afraid it’s too late, as we wish to get to -bed early to-night. What do you say, Tom?” - -“Why I think so too, Dick; and so we’ll be happy to join you, sir, in -your walk, as I think you said you intended proceeding to Tremadoc.” - -I said I should be happy, with a smile, that extracted from one of them -the question, “Ain’t you well, sir?” - -Without replying, I proceeded to put up my little all in the knapsack; -having first desired the waiter to bring my bill. - -“You’d better put it all together, and we can divide it,” said they. - -I agreed, and it being discharged, after paying for the shoes which I -borrowed for my evening’s sport, and for the repairing, which was -excellently performed by my loquacious cobbler, I started with my two -hopeful friends for Tremadoc. We however, first went to view the grounds -of Tan-y-bwlch, the seat of W. G. Oakley Esq. The name signifies “below -the pass:” it is situated on the side of a hill which overlooks the vale. - -From the terrace of this mansion you command one of the most romantic -views in Wales. Harlech Castle is visible upon the right; the -Merionethshire mountains tower in the distance, and the entire valley, -from Festiniog to Traeth Bychen, watered by the river Dwyryd, is -interesting beyond description. Lord Lyttleton tells us, in his -observations upon this valley, that an honest Welsh farmer, who died -there at 105 years of age, had by his first wife thirty children, ten by -his second, and four by his third. His eldest son was eighty-one years -older than his youngest, and 800 persons, descended from his body, -attended his funeral. - -I should be doing injustice to the worthy landlord of the Maentwrog Inn, -whose house I used upon my second visit to this delightful valley, did I -not speak in praise of his attention to the comforts of all travellers. -Good beds, civil waiters, excellent fare, and cheap charges, render this -one of the very best inns in Wales. And hear, ye lingering tourists! you -may have bed and board for the inconsiderable sum of one guinea per week; -which I think a very considerable temptation to remain at it a month, for -there is sufficient in the neighbourhood to interest the most phlegmatic -of Adam’s progeny. From hence may be visited the following interesting -places. The village of Festiniog, three miles, where there are two good -inns, the Pengwern Arms, and the Newborough Arms, where post horses and -cars are always in readiness; there is also a good boarding-house kept by -Miss Owen. The falls of Cynfael, two and a half; the slate quarries, -five and a half; the cataracts of the Rhaiadr Du and Ravenfall, two -miles; Llyn Llyanyrch, three and a half, where the trout are excellent; -Cwmorddin Pool, lies to the northward, about four and a half miles, to -which the tourist may be conducted by the railroad. There is a house at -each end of the lake where the angler will find accommodation from the -hospitable owners for a trifling remuneration. Lynn Mannot contains very -large trout, and is six miles from Maentwrog, and Llyn Morwynion is about -the same distance. - - [Picture: The Raven Fall, near Maentwrog] - -We proceeded along the lower road by the north side of the salts, as the -inhabitants of the valley call the arm of the sea, which here has the -appearance of a lake begirt with mountains, craggy cliffs, and shadowing -woods. Here we bade adieu to the delightful valley of Festiniog, and, -after walking about four miles along a pleasant road, a noble sheet of -water met our eyes, which appeared to be hemmed in by inaccessible -mountains, differing in form from those we had left behind, being more -conical, and some shooting upwards like pyramids into the clouds. - -As we proceeded, we discovered it to be the Traeth Mawr, which as the sea -is hidden from us by a breakwater, has the appearance of a broad lake. - -Upon this breakwater, which extends across the bay, is a railroad which -conveys slates from the quarries at Festiniog to Port Madoc, where it is -calculated ten thousand tons are shipped annually. Port Madoc receives -its name from the late William Alexander Maddoc Esq., of Tan-y-allt, as -does the town of Tremadoc. - -The extraordinary efforts of this enterprising man caused him to be -looked up to as the Prince of the soil. He redeemed, by constructing an -embankment of nearly one mile in length from north to south, across the -Traeth Mawr, at the eastern extremity of Cardigan Bay, a tract of more -than 2,700 acres of land. This enterprise was completed in 1811, and -cost upwards of £100,000; so that, with the lands previously recovered, -no less than 7000 acres have been regained, 6000 of which are cultivated. - -The view from the breakwater is perhaps the finest in North Wales for -distant mountain scenery. When the tourist has reached the centre of it, -let him turn his back upon the sea, and upon his right he will perceive a -hill, called Plas Newedd, from which a range of Alpine scenery stretches -up to the monarch of Snowdonia, who towers pre-eminent in the distance. -Upon his left another range, commencing with a hill called Moel Ghaist, -leads up to the same grand object, and the extraordinary variety -displayed in the formation of these wonderful masses with varying lights -and shadows that adorn them with sunny crowns or misty mantles, produce a -sublimity of effect I never before experienced. A bridge joins the -breakwater to the quay at Port Madoc, under which the tide rushes with -great impetuosity, covering a vast extent of ground at the flood, which -is left nearly dry at the ebb. About half a mile from Port Madoc, upon a -rising ground, stands a handsome house, once the property, though not the -principal residence, of the great speculator, which is now inhabited by -Mr. Williams, a solicitor, and agent to the creditors of the deceased. -Proceeding along the road, in a short time the tourist obtains a peep at -the little town of Tremadoc; but before reaching it he perceives the -church, an elegant building, with a tower and lofty spire, which forms a -principal object in the landscape. The archway, under which the church -is approached, is a beautiful specimen of workmanship, and does equal -credit to the taste of the founder and execution of the builder. Divine -service is read here in the English language every Sunday, which is a -great accommodation to the English families residing in the -neighbourhood, as there is no other church within twenty miles where it -is so performed. - - - -TREMADOC - - -or the town of Madoc, is built quadrangularly, and in the centre of the -square is a column with a pedestal, round which are twelve steps. On the -eastern side is a commodious market house, above which are the assembly -rooms. A market is held here on Fridays, and the Barmouth and Carnaervon -coach passes through three times a-week. - -Having refreshed ourselves with a luncheon of salad and cold meat, we -three trudged off together, in spite of wind and weather, which -threatened a speedy commencement of hostilities. Large masses of vapoury -clouds were driven above our heads; the swallows skimmed the surface of -the river, and brushed the standing corn with their swift wings, as they -flew along in the pursuit of their prey; and the wind blew loud and -shrilly, as in the month of November. At a short distance from the town, -upon the Beddgelert road, is a lofty hill, the base of which is planted -with fir trees; through which a path winds up to the mansion of -Tan-yr-allt, the late beautiful residence of Mr. Madocks. We had not -proceeded far, when we were compelled to seek shelter in a hollow, of -which there are many at the feet of the enormous precipices which -overhang the road. - -The transient storm having passed away, and sunshine once more lighting -up the valley, we again pushed forward. The Merionethshire mountains -upon the right, decked in their countless hues of rock and heather, over -which the departing storm swept with its rolling clouds, in dark -magnificence, formed a noble subject for the artist’s pencil. The road -is elevated above the meadows which enrich the centre of the vale; and -the river, which flows through them, having risen above its banks and -spread itself over a considerable tract of country, resembled an -extensive lake. - -About half way between Tremadoc and Beddgelert, is a small dingle upon -the left of the road, with a neat lodge at the entrance, and a path -leading up to the shrubbery, beneath which a mountain stream flows -rapidly, and empties itself into the Rhine. The path leads up to the -residence of Capt. Parry. As we proceeded, numerous falls dashed down -the mountains and plunging into hollows underneath the road, emerged -again upon the other side. We were several times forced to take shelter -from the heavy showers under fallen blocks of rock; and once as the storm -abated, and we looked anxiously out to see if it was clear enough to -pursue our journey, a glorious rainbow, stretching across the valley, its -points resting upon the mountains on either side, struck even my -snow-models of men with something like sensibility; for as they crept out -of their sheltering rock, they observed with infantine simplicity, “Well, -really that’s very pretty.” We now proceeded at a rapid pace, and the -river became more deep and narrow, and the circling eddies, as they -floated down the stream, announced to us that we were approaching the -fall of a great body of water, when suddenly—whizz, whirr, clash, splash, -dash, astounding and astonishing— - - - -ABER GLAS LLYNN, - - - [Picture: Pont Aber Glaslyn] - -with all its world of horrors, burst at once upon our view. I felt a -tremulous sensation within me; a contraction of the muscles of my throat; -an hysterical sob, and a desire to weep. I stood stone still; while my -edifying companions pursued their way without making a single -observation. I halted upon the centre of the bridge, and gave vent to my -feelings in pencilling down the following - - - -LINES -WRITTEN ON THE BRIDGE AT ABER GLAS LLYNN. - - - Thou of the stormy soul, who left behind - The love of sunny skies and smiling vales, - With thy fresh boyhood; thou upon whose brow - Stern care hath written gloom, and worldly wrongs - Made darksome; hither bend thy leaden steps, - And find a home here in this wild abyss!— - Abode congenial to thy lightless mind. - Ye black huge rocks, drear, mountainous, and stern, - First-born of chaos, everlasting piles - And monuments of the creation—hail! - Around your heads the thunder rolls in vain, - And the fierce lightnings from your summits bare - Turn harmless. Frown, frown on, ye giants stern, - Majestic emblems of eternity! - The torrents are your tongues, and with their roar - Talk of your dignity for ever. Hail! - White foaming, thundering, falls the boiling flood; - Rocks clash, and echo mocks the horrid din, - While man appalled, stands breathless, in amaze, - And, filled with awe, exalts his thoughts to Him, - Who was, who is, and aye must be supreme! - -Just above the bridge is a semicircular rock, which forms a salmon-leap, -over which the salmon, at spawning time, first lodge themselves at the -height of five or six yards. Proceeding through the pass, at every step -new wonders met the eye. The late heavy rains had swollen the mountain -waterfalls, and caused a terrific torrent to roar and struggle through a -narrow channel; for the mountains, forming this southern end of the vale, -approach so near to each other, that they only afford a contracted flow -for the river, and a narrow road, while their rocky sides rise so -perpendicularly, that their summits are scarcely farther distant from -each other than their foundations. The rushing river was a pure sheet of -white; furious, uncontrollable; nothing but the immense blocks riven from -the mountain’s craggy sides could withstand its dreadful impetuosity. A -few stunted fir and larch trees at the commencement of the pass were seen -starting from the dark clefts upon either side, which threw a deeper -shade upon this awful valley. - -Cradock calls this pass “the noblest specimen of the _finely horrid_ the -eye can possibly behold. The poet,” he continues, “has not described, -nor the painter pictured so gloomy a retreat. ’Tis the last approach to -the mansion of Pluto, through the regions of Despair.” I could have -stopped for hours to admire this splendid example of the sublimity of -Nature, but time pressed, so I pushed on to Beddgelert which is not more -than a mile and a half from the bridge. A solitary mountain ash which -grows about half way up the pass, is the sole bright thing in this abode -of terror, and looks like Beauty in desolation. Emerging from the pass -there is a stone which is called the chair of Rhys Gôch o’r’ Ryri; a -famous mountain bard who lived in the time of Owen Glyndwr. He resided -at the entrance into the Traeth Mawr Sands, from whence he used to walk, -and sitting upon this stone compose his poems. He died in 1420, at the -advanced age of 120 years; he was a gentleman of property, and was buried -in the ancient priory at - - - -BEDDGELERT. - - -Some are of opinion that this word should be written Celert or Cilert, -Bedd-Cilert, or Cilert’s grave; supposing that a monk or saint of that -name was buried here. Another celebrated bard was entombed at this -place, named Daffydd Nanmor, who died about the year 1460. - -The Goat is an excellent inn, and every attention the traveller can -desire is paid with the greatest celerity. Twenty post horses are kept -at this inn for travellers, and eight or ten ponys for the accommodation -of those visitors who wish to ascend Snowdon with ease and safety. {240} - -At nine o’clock, I strolled from the inn to the bridge, where I was -joined by a peasant, who, by his appearance, promised to be -communicative. It was a lovely evening; there was no moon, but the clear -sky displayed its burning host, in beautiful array. No breath of air -disturbed the silent slumbers of the peaceful woods. The lull of -rippling waters alone struck upon the ear, yielding a solemn tone like -the deep swell of the organ, breaking upon the deepest solitude. - -In such a situation how indescribable is the feeling which takes -possession of us! What language can express, what tongue can utter it? -My very breathing seemed to disturb the excessive sweetness of nature’s -melody. - -“This is a very pretty place, sir,” said the peasant, interrupting my -reverie. - -“It is indeed,” I replied. - -“I suppose, sir, you’ve been to visit the grave of Gelert, Llewellyn’s -hound?” - -“I have. Do you believe the legend?” - -“Indeed, sir, I do,” said he with a sigh; “but I never thought a man -could feel so much for the death of a brute, until last year—_hai how_!” - -This observation made me inquisitive to know what had so suddenly changed -his opinions. “What has caused you, my friend, to believe in a legend so -suddenly, which you never gave any credence to before?” - -“Why sir, I’ll tell you; you must know that I had a favourite pointer -bitch, _Truan Bac_. Oh, she was the beautifullest creature you ever saw. -She was the pride of the country; and gentlemen would come to me and say, -‘William, will you lend me your little bitch to go a shooting on the -mountains—_only for a day_? Because you see, sir, there was not her -equal in all Wales, for a single dog; ay, and she’d back as staunch as -any on ’em, and a better retriever never went into a field. Such a nose! -ah! poor wench; I never knew thy equal! You must think, sir, I was very -loath to let her go without me, for I bred her, and broke her in—though -very little breaking she wanted;—and you know, sir, a good dog is soon -spoilt by a bad sportsman, and the creatures be as fond of a good shot, -as he be fond of shooting to a good dog. No day was too long for her -when the scent lay. The motion of your hand was enough for her; to the -right, or left, or take the fences. She’d never baulk her game, or make -a false point; if the birds had just gone off, you might know she was -doubtful by a _leetle_ motion in her tail. But, if she stood stiff and -staunch, you might bet a guinea to a mushroom that there was game before -her, and you’d nothing to do but to go up and take your shot. Down she -was to charge, and, if you bade her, she would bring your bird without -ruffling a feather. Well, sir, the beginning of last August -unfortunately she had a litter of pups. ’Twas a cross breed, -_ysywaith_!—and I got the butcher’s boy to destroy them, which he did, -and buried them in the muck heap, at the back of the stable. From that -time, she would never stir from her bed, that was under the manger. My -dame took her her food as usual, and placed it just inside the stable -door. My little boy, Billy, went next day, with a mess of potatoes and -barley meal, but told his mother that Rose had’nt eat up her yesterday’s -mess. Ah! she cried, she’ll eat it when she’s hungry, I warrant her. -Billy went next evening, but her victuals were untouched, and, when he -went to coax her, she growled at him, and showed her teeth—a thing she -never in her life had done before to any living being; so he was -frightened, and told me of it next morning, and I went to the stable to -see her. Her meat was all dried up in the tub, and, when I went to her, -she seemed nothing but skin and bones. I called her Rose! poor Rose! she -slowly raised up her head, opened her bloodshot eyes, and moaned so -piteously! I thought she was dying. I held her a little milk; she just -moistened her tongue, and gave one wag of her tail, as much as to say, -thank you, master; and her head dropt again, and her eyes closed. I knew -’twas four days since she had eaten any thing. I put some food by her, -and went to my work. When I returned at night, the first thing I did was -to go into the stable, where I found the food untouched and my poor -little bitch dead, cold and stiff. I shall never forget it—_wela_! -_wela_!—I drew her from under the manger, and what do you think, sir? -I’ll be shot, if there warn’t her five little pups that the butcher’s boy -had kill’d!—she had dug them out of the dung-hill one by one, and laid -them in her kennel, and, fearing they would be taken from her again she -concealed them with her body, and died through starvation, rather than -give ’em up! Wasn’t that nature, sir? I’m almost ashamed to say it; but -indeed, sir, I wiped away tears from my cheeks, when I saw that sight. I -took her up in my arms, and buried her and her young litter in the same -grave; and since that time I never refuse my belief to the stories I hear -of surprising instances of devoted affection, gratitude, and instinct, in -any of her race. _Wela_! _wela_! - -“But sir, if you should come this way on your return, and should want a -day or two’s good sport on the mountains, I’ve got a dog that’s second to -none in the country, and I shall be proud to serve you.” - -I promised, if I should find it convenient to return by the first of -September, to engage his dog, if not previously hired; and bidding him -follow me to the Goat, I ordered for him a tumbler of whiskey-punch, -which spirit is as much esteemed in Snowdonia as in the mountains of -Wicklow. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - -Departure from Beddgelert—Vortigern’s Hill—Snowdon—Llynn Gwynant—Lines -written upon Llynn Gwynant—Gwrydd—Public Houses—Lake Fishing—A Night -Adventure—Pass of Llanberis—Legend of the Giant’s Night-Cap—The Lakes—The -Castle of Dolbadarn and Legend—View of the Lakes. - - “Oh, who hath stood on Snowdon’s side, - And glanced o’er Mona’s virgin pride; - And gazed on fatal Moel y don, - But thought of those once there undone? - When Saxons, and their foreign band, - Were crushed by the sons of the mountain land.” - - _T. J. Llewelyn Grichard_. - -ON the following morning I quitted the inn, where every attention was -shewn that a traveller could desire, and proceeded over the Ivy bridge, -through which the Gwynant flowed, deep and smooth as glass, without an -obstruction to ruffle its clear waters, that glided along, kissing its -verdant banks, like the stream of a happy life. Quietude reigned in this -region uninterrupted. About half a mile from Beddgelert, a rocky -eminence projects into the road, called _Vortigern’s Hill_, or _Dinas -Emrys_, a magician, who was sent for to this place by Vortigern, when he -found himself hated by his subjects, and fled from their just anger to -this secluded spot. Passing this memorable place, a round clump of rock -attracts the eye, rising as it were in the centre of the valley, and -called _Moel Wynn_. Looking backward, _Moel Hebog_, the Hawk hill, rises -majestically and closes up the entrance to Beddgelert. Moel Shebbod -towers in front, and, as we pursued our delightful path, about two miles -and a half from Beddgelert, an opening of the hills upon the left -displayed a deep gorge, and the base of Snowdon, whose high peak, rising -in the unclouded skies, held up the holy symbol of Christianity, as in -adoration of the Creator. At length, I reached _Llynn Dinas_, a lake of -about three quarters of a mile in extent, through which the Gwynant runs; -it is surrounded by lofty mountains of a deeper tint than is usually seen -upon the Welsh hills. A beautifully situated cottage here at the far end -of the lake, belonging to Mr. Sampson, nestles among the protecting -woods, and forms a delightful object. The river which feeds the lake, -winds through the verdant and undulating grounds which form a miniature -park, between the cottage and the lake. Following up the course of the -stream, I left Llynn Dinas behind me, and proceeded by a gradual ascent -through the most delightful scenery I ever beheld, until I caught -glimpses through the plantations of - - - -LLYNN GWYNANT, - - -and after a while beheld it stretching beneath me upon my left hand. The -valley forms a bowl among the hills. The bottom is a small grassy plain, -dotted with trees, which has obtained the appellation of Beauty sleeping -in the lap of Terror. The mountains that surround the vale, have a wild -and rugged appearance. As I proceeded along the road towards the head of -the valley, a horn was sounded from the mountain, and I perceived a Welsh -girl standing upon a projecting eminence: bare headed and bare footed, -was this nymph of Cambria; her cheeks were swelled out with her -occupation, and she looked like a female _Boreas_, bursting with the wind -she was sending forth by degrees to alarm the _world_. - -She eyed me with glances of curiosity all the while, and I thought she -could perhaps give me some information about the valley, which might be -interesting; so quitting the direct road, I scrambled up the hill side, -and asked her the meaning of her sounding the horn so loudly? But she -either did not, or would not, understand me; and after vainly -endeavouring to extract any thing from her, I quietly sat myself down, -delighted by the splendid view beneath me, and gave vent to my feelings -in the following lines: - - - -LLYNN GWYNANT. - - - Llynn Gwynant, Llynn Gwynant! how bless’d should I be, - When the winter of life crowns my temples with snow, - To rest on thy margin, with her who loves me, - And children whose love gathers strength as they grow. - - There are mountains whose peaks rise more lofty by far, - And valleys more spacious and fertile to view, - But of all the high hills and green glens that there are, - Llynn Gwynant give me, with its waters of blue. - - Lynn Gwynant, Lynn Gwynant! I bid thee farewell, - Where peace in the beauty of solitude glows, - Again in the cold hearted city to dwell, - And pine for the calm of thy blissful repose. - - Farewell to the lake with the surface of glass, - Brown heath and blue mountains—abode of the free! - This heart, like the flood from the high _Ffynnon Las_, {250} - Will leap from its gloom to find rapture in thee. - -Having nearly reached the extremity of this valley, I gazed, from my -elevated situation, upon the dark and perpendicular rocks on the opposite -side; and towering in the air immediately over the centre of the valley -was an eagle with expanded wings, apparently motionless. Presently it -rose a little higher, but without the slightest visible exertion, then -stooped again, mounted once more, and, as fast as the eye could follow, -swept round the huge buttresses of sharp ridged cliffs, that hang over -the entrance of the pass of Llanberis. - -As Llynn Gwynant is gradually shut out from the lingering gaze of the -traveller, (who it may be said during the whole of the ascent, should -turn his eyes behind him), and he at length looks forward in the -direction of Llanberris, a new scene of grandeur bursts upon him. He has -left beauty behind in its loveliest form;—but the sublime and wonderful -now call forth all the springs of admiration. - - [Picture: Snowdon, from the Pass of Llyn Gwynant] - -Snowdon again appears in all his splendor! Mountains that by comparison -looked like hillocks rise round his regal waist, in groups numerous and -picturesque. The deep black crags that form the western side of the -valley make a magnificent fore-ground, and open here like nature’s gates, -to disclose the secrets of her bosom. - -The accompanying etching, gives an admirable idea of this imposing scene. -About a mile from hence is a place called Gwrydd, where there is a small -public house, with a sign signifying nothing. Here I resolved to “rough -it” for a day, intending to fish the lakes, situated immediately above -this spot, as nature’s cisterns to water the pleasant valleys. - -The public house possesses a small parlour, carpetted, with half a dozen -hair-bottomed chairs, and a mahogany table. A silent but most -importunate monitor urged me to discover what food this mountain chalet -could produce. “Eggs and bacon,” was the expected reply to my question; -and I soon had the pleasure of seeing this humble, but most grateful, -fare placed before me, and in spite of the indifferent style of the -cooking, I partook of it eagerly, having that incomparable sauce “a good -appetite.” - -After I had repaired my broken rod, I ascended the mountain at the back -of the house, and arrived at a large oval lake, in which the black and -sterile rocks that form inaccessible ramparts on one side are reflected -in its generally unruffled surface. The scene is wild and desolate, such -as Despair herself would select for her abode. There are plenty of fish -in this lake, but they are all small and extremely shy. I remained upon -its margin until the shadows of night gave me warning to attend to my -safety, and make the best of my way to my lodging, where I speedily -ascended by a ladder-like staircase to a kind of cock-loft which was -divided into two compartments, one for the accommodation of the family, -man, wife, children and servants, the other fitted up for travellers. -Sleep soon overtook me, and I should have continued to sleep, I have no -doubt, until breakfast time, had I not been awakened by a trifling -accident. - - “At the mid hour of night, when stars were weeping,” - -and ghosts of the mighty walk upon the hills, with a variety of other -interesting objects that poets and nursery maids have described -infinitely better than I can pretend to do, I was visited by a dream in -which the ghost of a lobster popped his head out of a salad bowl, and -demanded upon what authority I had presumed to make mince-meat of his -body, when a loud crash roused me from my slumber, and I found myself -with my knees, doubled up to my chin upon the floor; the bedstead having -broken in the middle, and deposited me in this unenviable position. I -need not say that for the remaining part of the night, I was wholly left -to waking reveries, and uncontrollable desires for the blessings of -daylight, which at last greeted my longing eyes, and hurrying on my -clothes, I descended and walked forth to scent the morning air, in the -direction of Llanberris. The mists rolled like troubled lakes in the -valleys, and the black bleak rocks looked cheerless and forbidding. The -breeze was keen and piercing, and I started at a round pace to get myself -warm by exercise. Having reached the summit of the roadway, I plunged at -once into the pass of Llanberis, wild and gloomy. The precipices on my -left looked truly terrible, like the shadow of death wrapped in a vapoury -shroud. This pass is above four miles in length, and is a fine specimen -of rugged grandeur. Not a single tree enlivens with its verdure this -tremendous chasm. Range above range of rocks tower over the traveller -upon either side, bearing various tints of black, brown, green and -purple, according to the disposition of the sun’s rays, and the distances -of the ponderous masses. The rocks on both sides are nearly -perpendicular; and, about two miles down the pass, the tourist will -perceive some prodigious masses of rock upon his right hand that have -fallen from the overhanging cliffs, which, when he pauses to look upon, -will strike a feeling of terror into his heart, as he inwardly exclaims, -“could any one have witnessed the descent of this tremendous mass?” The -accompanying sketch gives a most accurate description. - - [Picture: Pass of Llanberis] - -I stood contemplating this scene, and suddenly a wild shout roused me -from my reverie. - -“Halloo, halloo! over—over—over!” - -I turned my eyes up the mountain to my left, and there saw a shepherd, -forming a speaking trumpet with his hands, and shouting to a dog (of what -kind heaven knows, but in my opinion a thorough bred mongrel), and the -fleet animal was dashing down the hill in the direction to where I stood. -In an instant, he had passed me. It was a perfect nondescript! a thing -that looked like the offspring of a French poodle and a Welsh goat; such -a mass of hair, rags and wool, I never before beheld. I sat watching his -progress, which was exceedingly rapid, and as I marked him, as he -scrambled up the opposite craggs, I could not help admiring the instinct -(or training) of the wretched looking animal. Sheep after sheep did it -pursue, and drive down into the hollow from which they had strayed—some -of them leading him a chase (of no enviable description) nearly to the -summit of the barren mountain; but, with untired feet and unceasing bark, -he tracked and outstripped them all, and, in conclusion, forced them into -the bounds allotted for them at the bottom of the vale, where a scanty -supply of grass served for them to browse upon. This duty done, the -faithful animal left them, and again crossing the valley, rushed by me -and rejoined his master. - -I was about to pursue my journey, when I perceived a man fishing in the -stream beneath. I descended to learn what sport he had met with, and -found he had not been fortunate. I asked him if he remembered the time, -when the huge rock, I have before noticed, fell from the brow of the -precipice? - -“It would be hard for me to do that, sir,” said the fisherman, who laying -his rod upon the ground, seemed desirous of saying something more upon -the subject. - -“Is there any legend about it?” I inquired. - -“Indeed, sir, there is,” replied he; “and, if you’ll only stop till I put -up my tackle, as I suppose you’re going to Llanberis, I’ll tell you as -much as I know about the matter.” - -I remarked, as he spoke, an expression of countenance that told me he -thought tale telling might prove more profitable than trout fishing; but -I readily agreed to his proposition, and in a few minutes we were -trudging, side by side, along the road towards the village. - -I dare say, sir, you havn’t come so far, without seeing _Cader Idris_, or -the _Chair of Idris_, as it is called, for Idris _Gawr_ you must know, -sir, was a famous giant of his day, but whether you have or not, he had a -brother, sir, as I’ve been told, _Dyn Ddu o’r’ Craig_, which means the -black man of the craig, who had a very fine castle upon the top of that -precipice, at the foot of which you noticed those large pieces of rock. -Well, sir, he never loved his brother, but he had a great liking for his -niece; one of the prettiest girls, ’twas thought, ever seen in this part -of the country; but she was to be married to a fine young hero, one of -the knights of King Arthur’s round table, who had done wonders for her -sake, and made all the world confess _Merch Idris_ was the most beautiful -creature in the world. - -Well, sir, she was mortally afraid of her uncle, for he had a head as big -as the top of Snowdon, and a forest of whiskers, and a beard that a man -might take a day’s shooting in, without tearing his coat with the -branches; so that he never could be conquered, having so much game in -him, ha! ha! ha!—You’ll excuse me, sir, but what a comfortable thing it -must be for a man to catch birds enough in his whiskers, to serve him for -dinner!—Well, sir, it happened that Merch Idris was benighted between -Capel Curig and her father’s castle, and, as she had only one attendant, -and he was a poor weak coward, you may easily suppose she was for getting -home as fast as possible; but a storm came on, and the night closed round -them, and by some means or other they lost their way; for you know, sir, -at that time there were no turnpike roads, as there are now, and they -wandered about upon their merlins until nightfall, without knowing what -part of the world they were in; when all of a sudden, the servant’s -beast, who went first, sank into a bog, up to his neck; and his rider -began to roar for help so loudly, that the lady’s animal took fright, set -off at full speed, and never stopped until they came to the gates of a -large castle. The night was so dark, she couldn’t make out whether she -had ever seen it before or not; however, she thought it would be better -to blow the horn at the gate, and ask for shelter, than wander about the -mountains all night, at the risk of breaking her neck, or being smothered -in a quagmire. So she blew a blast (for at that time o’ day every great -lady played upon some instrument or other, and this young lady surpassed -all others upon the horn) so loud, that presently a warden called out -from the top of a tower. “Who’s there?” Well, she mustered up courage -enough to say, she was “A lady in great distress.” - -“Oho!” says the warden, and off he set. Now the young lady scarcely knew -how to take the salutation of the warden, whether it was meant friendly -or otherwise. She had not pondered long upon those mysterious sounds, -when the portcullis was raised, and the first living thing she saw was -her tremendous uncle Dyn Ddu o’r’ Craig! with a hundred torches behind -him, ready to welcome her into his castle. You may be sure she was not -much pleased at his presence, and regretted that she had not held out -till the morning. But she had gone too far, and so she went in, and the -iron grating was closed again, with a sound that struck terror into her -pretty heart. Now it so happened that Sir Tristram (that was the name of -her lover) was staying with her father, Idris Gawr; and they were both of -them puzzled what to think when Merch Idris didn’t reach home at the time -they expected her. So the knight mounted his charger and gallopped off -one way, and Idris took up his club and walked off the other, to search -for her. All this time, the villain of an uncle was trying to wheedle -the fair maid, his niece, to marry him; and, when he found her deaf to -his monstrous wishes, he flew into a mighty passion, and dragged her to -the top of the precipice, by the hair of her head, and swore, in a most -unchristian manner, that he would pitch her over, if she didn’t consent. - -But just as he was about to put his threat into execution, he heard a -horse at full gallop behind him; so he turned round just time enough to -avoid the slashing sword of Sir Tristram, who made a determined cut at -his head, that would have taken it clean off, if he hadn’t have ducked. -Well, he was fain to let go the lady to save himself from the fury of the -knight, although he didn’t think much of him. But he pulled up a tree, -and he made a mighty blow at him, which the knight, by the blessing of -providence, escaped; but the horse wasn’t so fortunate, for it fell upon -the poor creature’s head, and smashed it to atoms. Well, the knight -began to think the giant “too much of a horse” for him; and so he blew -three notes upon his bugle, which was the appointed signal between him -and Idris, and no sooner had he done so, than it was answered. - -“And now,” said Sir Tristram, “my fine fellow, you’ll have your match in -a minute; and sure enough, as he spoke, Dyn Ddu o’r’ Craig saw his -brother running at the rate of half a mile a stride. Well, he was -greatly perplexed what to do; but he thought he had better get into the -castle. So, he took Merch Idris under his left arm, and kept the knight -off with the roots of the tree. However, he couldn’t reach the gates in -time. - -“And now,” says Idris to his brother, “you ruffian,” says he, “what are -you going to do with my daughter? Put her down, or I’ll smash you, as I -do this tower!” and with that he hit a turret of the castle, and it flew -about in all directions. “Why then,” says the other, “I think I can do -as great a feat as that.” So he knocked the other turret on the head, -and drove it clean down into the earth, so that not a brick of it was -seen above ground! Well, with that the two giants began to bang each -other with their cudgels, till they were black and blue, while Sir -Tristram and the lady ran off to Cader Idris, as fast as they could, to -get out of harm’s way. - -Idris was the stronger giant of the two, and after three hours’ hard -fighting, you wouldn’t have known them for human beings; but Idris having -got Dyn with his back to the precipice, (where he threatened to throw the -poor young lady over) hit him, with all his force, such a blow on the -nose as made him stagger back and roll right over the edge of the craig. -Well, he rolled and he rolled, till he got to the place where you were -standing, and then he stopped; but he was quite dead. Then the famous -Idris, seeing his brother lie like a huge bundle of rags, without motion, -by the side of the stream, tore off a large piece from the top of the -mountain, and throwing it with great force, it lit full upon the giant as -he lay, while his conqueror roared out, in a voice that was heard at -Carnaervon,—“Good rest to you, brother Dyn! there’s a nightcap for you!” - -And ever since, that piece of rock has been called “the Giant’s -Nightcap.” - - * * * * * - -We soon obtained a view of the lakes that spread themselves before -us—viz.: Lyn Peris and Lyn Padarn, with the romantic castle of Dolbadarn -upon its rocky promontory. On issuing from a pass on our left, as my -companion informed me, is a valuable copper mine, and a stream of water -conveyed over the road, by the aid of a wooden conduit, into the lake, -which stream, he said, was for the use of the mine. - -At length, I reached the inn, called Victoria, and satisfying my -companion with a gratuity which was more profitable than fishing, I -entered and ordered breakfast, and procured an admittance to the castle -of Dolbadarn. This ancient fortress is supposed to have been built by -one Padarn Beisrydd ap Idwal, for the purpose of guarding the mountain -pass which I had just quitted. A single round tower is all that remains -of the castle, although traces are left of a much more extensive -building. Here Owen Goch was imprisoned twenty years by his brother -Llewellyn, the last Prince of Wales of the British line; and an ode is -still extant, written by Howel-Voel, wherein his captivity is -affectionately lamented. - -The view from the castle is truly sublime, comprising the two lakes, and -the tremendous range of mountains, that seem to admit no outlet from the -vale. But the most beautiful prospect is from the lake in front of the -promontory on which the castle stands, and is reflected in the smooth -waters beneath, while the majestic Snowdon towers in the distance. - -In the twelfth century, it is said there lived a celebrated beauty, whose -father was the lord of this castle, and of whom something like the -following legend is related: - - - -LEGEND OF DOLBADARN. - - -Margaret of Dolbadarn was one of the fairest damsels of whom Cambria ever -boasted at court or tourney;—fair without vanity, highborn without -ostentation, she exhibited the simplicity of nobility. - -Like others of her rank, she had many knights who owned her power, and -panted to put lance in rest for the peerless Margaret; but in the number -there was but one whom her eye followed through the glittering throng, -and whose approach made her heart beat, and the mounting blood turn the -delicate pink upon her cheek to crimson; and William of Montgomery was -the happy knight. - -But her father had other views, and Hector of March-lyn-Mawr was proposed -by him to be her husband—a youth of noble presence, but ignoble mind. -His lands extended far and near, and skirted those of the Lord of -Dolbadarn, who was, from that circumstance, doubly anxious to have the -union consummated. - -He was, however, a tender guardian; he loved his daughter, and was by her -loved tenderly in return. Both knights had free access to Margaret, and -both were anxious to deserve her favour. William was young, valiant, -handsome, and honest; Hector was bold, gloomy, uncourtly and subtle. The -Baron saw the decided preference his daughter gave to William of -Montgomery, and grieved in his heart that it was not bestowed upon his -more wealthy rival. He therefore resolved to put a proposal to his -daughter, which was, that at the ensuing tournament to be given at his -castle, the knights should prove their skill upon each other, and that he -who was proclaimed the most accomplished master of his weapons, should -receive her hand as the reward. For, though he was desirous of an -alliance with the wealthy and powerful house of March Lyn Mawr, he was by -no means insensible to the merits of Montgomery, whose name stood high in -the lists of chivalry, and whose engaging manners won friends for him -wherever he appeared. With a heavy heart did Margaret submit to the -proposal of her father, although a feeling of confidence within her bosom -told her the object of her attachment would prove the victor. Far -different emotions agitated the hearts of the rivals, when they were -informed of the Baron’s determination. William of Montgomery flung -himself upon his knees before the old man, exclaiming with enthusiasm, - -“By bath, and bed, and white chemise, {266} I will for ever be a true -knight to thee for this especial favour, my good Lord of Dolbadarn! My -lance and blade are yours at command, and,” turning to his rival, -“Hector, if I bear thee not over thy charger’s croup, why say my heart -and hand shook with fear in the encounter.—But, if thou gainest the -field, I’ll give thee a grey palfrey for thy bride, to bear her to the -church yonder, by thy side.” - -“Agreed,” said Hector; “and noble Lord of Dolbadarn, if heaven desert me -not in the hour of trial, I doubt not my success in winning thy daughter -for my bride. Yet, should I fail, I promise thee, William of Montgomery, -to give thee a steed, fleeter than any in thy stables, to bear the Lady -Margaret as thy bride to church, nor will I bear thee any ill will -shouldst thou prove conqueror, but drink a health to thee and thine, with -a kind heart and true.” - -At this time, there dwelt an old woman in the pass of Llanberis who was -dreaded by all the country people, for she was accounted a witch; and on -the night of that same day the storm raged furiously, and the tall trees -were cracking in the forest, when a horseman was seen galloping up the -pass. He stopped at the witch’s hut, and knocking loudly, he cried, “Ho! -mother witch! open the door! for thy devil’s counsel is needed.” - -The door was then opened, and the knight fastened his coal-black steed, -dripping with rain and sweat, to a withered ash, and strode into the -cabin. The fire reflected in his suit of steel made him appear a knight -of flame; and, as he stamped his armed heels upon the floor, his armour -rang with a muffled sound, like the death bell which tolls for the great, -who die in the odour of sanctity: and the old hag laughed; her spirit was -glad—for she knew that a deed of damning crime was shortly to be -committed! - -He sat him down upon the three-legged stool, and said, “Dame, I am ill at -ease; for I love a maid whose heart I cannot win. Attend to me;—the -gallant and high-minded Montgomery I must encounter for her in the lists; -and, should he conquer, he will bear away the prize I am burning to -possess; but, if the chance be mine, her own consent waits on her -father’s choice, whose wishes are for me. Doubts on the issue urge me to -seek thy aid. May my saint desert me if I would not rather shake hands -with the foul fiend himself, than give a palfrey for my Margaret to ride -to church upon, with any but myself.” - -The witch laughed aloud, till he jumped from the stool, to see her old -sides shake. “Hector of March Lyn Mawr,” quoth she, “fear not that -Margaret of Dolbadarn will ever become the bride of Montgomery; for -shouldst thou be overcome in the lists, (and my power will not assist -thee in the joust) call aloud ‘Hell kite! hell kite!’ and presently shall -a gallant palfrey come and raise thee from the ground, which being done, -present it to thy foe, and thou shalt see the issue.” He thanked her, -dropped his purse upon the floor, mounted his steed, and vanished down -the pass. - -There was a great assemblage of people at the castle of Dolbadarn, to -witness the jousting; and knights from all quarters arrived, to break a -lance with merry England’s best, for glory and lady love. - -The tilting ground was enclosed by galleries erected for the ladies and -nobles who wished to be spectators of the games. Upon the plain, at the -end of the vale, fifty shields were hung up by the knights who wished to -signalize themselves. Three score of coursers, with a squire of honour, -first entered the lists; then followed as many knights in jousting -harness, led in silver chains, by the same number of ladies, richly clad, -to the sound of clarions, and trumpets, and minstrelsy. When the ladies -ascended the galleries, the squires dismounted, and the knights vaulted -gaily into their saddles. The scaffoldings were hung with tapestry, and -embroideries of gold and silver; and the scene was animated and costly in -the extreme. Joy lighted up the eyes of all, save those of Margaret and -her two lovers. She sat a lily among roses, pale and dejected. -Sometimes, indeed, she lifted her dark eyes, and her snowy neck took for -a moment the carnation’s hue when she beheld the form of Montgomery, -which yet faded as quickly as it came, and the Parian marble was left -pure as before. - -Sir William walked, with a bold and lofty mien, along the line of -shields, glancing at them with indifference, until he stopped before that -which bore the arms of Hector, and then a smile of scorn played upon his -lips, and he passed on. Hector marked that smile, and his cheeks flushed -with anger. Great skill was displayed by youthful knights decked in -ladies’ favours. But, when the time arrived for the trial between Sir -William of Montgomery and Hector of March Lyn Mawr, a hum of unusual -interest arose among the gallant and beauteous auditory. From the -opposed lists they passed each other, to determine the length of the -course, with visors up. Sir William smiled gaily, but Hector wore a sad -and mournful look, as though he feared or doubted the event of the trial. - -This ceremony of preparation being over, each took his post assigned, -awaiting the signal for the charge. The Lady Margaret was pale as death, -but none around her noticed it, they being all intent upon the two -knights, who wore no outward favours, though one possessed an amulet -which he had placed near his heart, beneath his vest. It was a white -rose, which the fair Margaret had taken from her bosom, and given him an -hour before in secret. - -The nominal prize for the victor was a jewelled sword, but the prize on -which their hearts were set was a gem transcendant—the all-surpassing -Margaret! - -And now the heralds sounded the charge, and the combatants met in mid -career. The lance of Hector was shivered upon the breast of Montgomery; -but Sir William’s struck full upon the visor of Hector, which made him -bend his plume backwards. In the second course, Hector struck the -coronal of Sir William’s helmet a skilful stroke. Margaret fainted, and -the ladies about her were busy in applying restoratives; but none -attempted to remove her, being too much interested in the event of the -joust. Montgomery cast a look of fire up to the spot, and then re-closed -his visor for the third course. His opponent was resolved to make it a -decisive one. Striking their spurs into their chargers’ sides, like -arrows shot from opposing bows, they flew along. Then was a clash, a -glittering flash! and the prize was won—for Hector of March Lyn Mawr lay, -stunned and motionless, upon the ground, borne from his saddle by the -lance of the victorious Sir William of Montgomery! - -Margaret, being restored to her senses, wept tears of joy, and spoke most -sweet words, when her lover riding beneath the platform, demanded from -her hand the honourable prize. - -But a wonder now appeared, which turned all eyes to the spot where Hector -lay o’erthrown; for a milk-white palfrey, of the most exquisite form, had -galloped into the lists, and drawn him from beneath his charger, which -had fallen with him in the violent concussion. His helmet being loosed, -he soon partially recovered, and seeing the beautiful animal frisking and -curvetting, as though overjoyed at his escape, he led it by the mane to -his rival, saying, - -“William of Montgomery, I give to thee this palfrey. Present it to thy -bride, to whom I now resign all claim, and only request that she will, -for my sake, let my favourite bear her to the church, where your union is -to be celebrated.” - -It was a lovely thing to look upon, and the maiden promised to use no -other on that happy day. - -The church of Llanberis was, at this time, about a mile from the castle -of Dolbadarn, and the road, upon the bridal morning, resembled a mosaic -pavement, when viewed from the mountain, it was so thickly studded with -the fantastic dresses of the company, spectators, and gay flags and -streamers waving in the air. The minstrels struck up their boldest notes -of war, or delighted the ears and hearts of the female holiday makers -with the soft songs of love. All was mirth, feasting, and jollity, while -the air rung with the combined names of Margaret of Dolbadarn and William -of Montgomery. - -At length, the bridal procession issued forth from the castle gateway; -the heralds led, the minstrels followed. Then came comely maidens with -baskets of flowers, which they strewed around them, as they passed along. -A body of armed knights followed and after them their esquires. Then -appeared a troop of dancing girls, adorned with flowers, and clad in -purest white; and a second band of minstrels struck their harps before -the bridegroom and the happy bride, who rode gaily, side by side. She -was dressed in rich attire; jewels glittered upon her robes and in her -hair; and she rode upon the beautiful steed presented by March Lyn Mawr. -The palfrey seemed proud of its lovely burthen, and gentle as the -unwearied lamb. The bridegroom was clad in a light tunic and hose, and -peaked boots; a many-coloured plume fluttered in his bonnet, and many -sweet words did he whisper in Margaret’s ear. As the assembled multitude -shouted their gratulations, he bent even to his saddle bow, to thank them -for their courtesy. Young Hector rode upon her left, and he laughed, -too, and he bowed low; but in his laugh there was a fiendish sound, and -in his bow a scorn. Then followed the Lord of Dolbadarn, his long white -locks waving in the summer breeze, surrounded by his relatives and -friends. A troop of squires and pages followed, while all the retainers -of his noble house brought up the rear. - -The bride and bridegroom passed along, and thousands cheered them on -their way, with shouts and praises. The sun shone brightly above their -heads, and joy was in their hearts. On they went, until a turning in the -road brought them at once in sight of the church; but here the palfrey -grew restive, and Sir William seized the bridle, thinking to control him. -This answered but for a short distance; for they had no sooner reached -the gate, over which was carved a cross, than, even while the groom held -the stirrup for her to alight, away, away, away flew the palfrey, like a -falcon, down the wind. The Lady Margaret was a good horsewoman, but she -could not control the enchanted steed. She, however, kept her seat well, -and hoped the unruly animal would soon relax his speed. - -A hundred horsemen galloped after her, the bridegroom taking the lead, -who, being mounted on the swiftest horse, soon left the rest behind, -although unable yet to overtake the bride. The palfrey first dashed -forward in the direction of Carnaervon, but suddenly turned off to the -right, and galloped up the mountain. Hundreds of the peasantry were -trampled under foot by the horses of the pursuers; some bruised, some -crippled, and some killed, while the old Lord of Dolbadarn wrung his -withered hands, and tore his grey locks, in frantic agony. He accused -Hector as the author of all this misery, and vented his curses upon him, -which the infuriated mob hearing, they seized upon the astonished knight, -and almost in an instant tossed him upon their spikes into the air. He -fell to the ground again, but not to rise; his plume, besmeared with -blood, was scattered in every direction; his body, pierced with twenty -wounds, spouted forth blood in fountains; blows fell upon his harness -thick as hail; while a ferocious smith, with one stroke of an axe, -severed the head from the body, and placing it upon a pike, bore the -dripping trophy of vengeance above the applauding and infuriated wretches -who had suffered in the tumult. - -Those who could govern their horses flew over the broken country in -pursuit, while fleeter than a startled hind, the palfrey dashed along—at -times abating his swift flight, to give the laggards hope, who furiously -spurred their chargers forward - - After the knight, - And lady bright. - -But away, away flew the enchanted steed over moss and moor, o’er hill and -dale, through ford and forest; while of those who followed up the chase -some were smothered, horse and rider, in the deep morass; some broke -their necks in attempting to leap stone walls; some dangled from the -boughs in woody dell, or perished in the river, dashed by the torrent -against broken rocks; and they cursed, and died as they cursed. - -But Sir William of Montgomery pricked on his horse all foaming, and, as -the strength of the noble animal began to fail, he cried aloud upon his -patron saint to aid him. It was a charm of power, for it was a holy one; -and the creature shook the foam from his mouth, and with recovered -strength, dashed on in the pursuit. That charm, too, struck upon the -heart of the palfrey, which began to fail him, and he tried in vain to -keep the speed he had hitherto maintained. But the impetuous knight, -seeing that he gained upon his lady love, furiously urged on his charger, -and with desperate rashness, burying his rowels in his side, -exclaimed—“Hell kite, speed on!”—the very words the witch had given as a -charm to Hector, and the name of the palfrey. - -No sooner was it pronounced, than his speed returned, and away, away the -enchanted steed rushed on, as swiftly as before! The lady was, by this -time, nearly senseless; her eyes were dimmed from the effect of the air, -as she cut through it; and her heart trembled within her, like a -fluttering dove. She cast an imploring look behind upon her lover, and -raised one snowy arm beseechingly. He saw the action, and fancied he -heard her voice, faintly calling upon him for aid. But it was to Him who -governs all, she prayed; and again the wild horse felt the sacred power. -But he had nearly reached the goal. With voice and spur the gallant -knight pressed on up the rising ground, the summit of which, unknown to -Margaret, or the knight, looked over the broad ocean;—it was the terrific -Penman Maur. - -Nearer and nearer did the knight approach; his charger’s foam was on the -palfrey’s flanks. Another bound, and he was at the side of -Margaret—another, and there was one loud wild scream that startled the -eagles from their nests. Montgomery had clasped his lady round her -waist, and borne her to his saddle bow. It was the movement of an -instant—but, in that instant, steeds, knight, and lady plunged from the -precipice’s edge! The first fall of fifty feet crushed the palfrey and -war-horse; and the foul spirit, quitting the enchanted steed, like a dark -cormorant hovered over the group. - -The knight still clasped the maiden in his arms, whose shrieks were -answered by the eagles’ screams; and the lovers were dashed from rock to -rock, battered and bloody. The maiden fainted; but Sir William held her -with the tenacious grasp of despair, with one arm to his breast, and with -his right hand seized a dwarfish thorn—the only one that grew out of the -rifted rock! But still there was no resting place for feet to stand -upon, while the broken fragments of the cliff, disturbed by the weight of -the fall, thundered downwards from above, and around them in every -direction. One large mass struck the unhappy knight; the fragile thorn -gave way, and the next moment beheld the loving pair, mutilated -carcasses, floating upon the reckless waves! The eagles gorged upon -their flesh, and not a vestige of the lost ones was left. A white scarf -which Margaret wore, and which streamed, like the banner of death, from -the blasted thorn, alone remained to tell the fate of Sir William of -Montgomery, and his blooming bride! - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - -The church of Llanberis—Monumental inscriptions—Story of little John -Closs—The Pellings—Capel Curig—Moel Siabod—Castle of Dolwyddélan—Falls of -Benclog—Llyn Ogwen—Llyn Idwal—Story of Idwal—Route to Llanrwst—Falls of -Rhaiadr y Wennol—Bettws y Coed—The church—Monuments—Pont y Pair—Ogo ap -Shenkin, a Legend—Glee, “Shenkin was a noble fellow!” - - “Of a noble race was Shenkin! - Thrum, thrum, thrum, - Of the line of Owen Tudor, - Thrum, thrum, thrum, - But her renown was fled and gone, - Thrum, thrum, thrum, - But her renown was fled and gone, - Since cruel love pursued her!” - - JOHN DRYDEN. - -RETURNING to the Victoria, I partook of the refreshments provided, and -then retracing my steps, I visited the little rustic church of Llanberis, -which, for its simplicity, is well worthy of attention. Upon entering -the doorway, there is a small stone font placed upon a pedestal which is -approached by three stone steps: it resembles a small washing tub, and -its cover is much like a copper-lid. Advancing into the interior, the -music loft is upon the left, under which is a dilapidated screen, -opposite to the font. A doorway in the centre of the screen leads into -the body of the church, where ancient oaken benches are ranged upon -either side, and the pulpit and communion table are immediately in front. -The old arched roof is held together by iron pins, which project on each -side of the timbers, and the whole interior is whitewashed. The only pew -in the church adjoins the communion table, both of which have suffered -materially by the worm and time. The few monuments in this simple -structure are upon small slate slabs, about the size of a school-boy’s, -and are hung up on the wooden beams. There are two of wood, with letters -cut deeply into the small square, thus: - - Ina - Tan! hun! Ofe! mae - Gorwedd! Corph - ROE! ei oed! 60 - Y Dudd! Y Cladd wud - E brill! 10! 1719. - -The other, immediately facing the pulpit, is a black piece of board, -ornamented with an undertaker’s tablet of gilt copper, in the centre of -which, upon black japan, is— - - Thos. Williams - Died Oct. 25 - 1836. - Aged 74. - -On leaving the church, there is a monumental slate slab on the left of -the path, bearing the following inscription and verses: - - Underneath - Lieth the remains - Of John, the son of - Robert Closs, who was - Interred Decr. 1st. - 1805, aged 7 years. - - Ar ben mynydd dydd-y-daith oî hoywder - A che dodd y maith - Gadewais (gwelais goeg waith) - Drueni’r Byd ar unwaith. - O erfel fu uchel a chos, i augau - Llyn ingol i’mddangos - Mantell niwl mewn lywyll nos - A dychrymad dechreunos. - -Upon returning to my inn at Gwrydd, I discovered that the landlady was -sister to little John Closs; and from her I learnt the story of his -melancholy fate. It is as follows: - -John was a pretty boy, about seven years of age, with fair hair and blue -eyes, of a sweet-temper, adored by his parents, and loving them most -affectionately in return. Indeed, little John Closs was the talk of the -parish, and held up as a pattern of filial love and reverence to all the -children in the village. His uncle had a small farm at Nant Bettwys; and -John’s father having sent him to reside there, for a few months, the fond -mother would often cross the mountain to see her son and her sister, -returning home in the evening of the same day. Little John got tired of -living away from home, and one night, after his mother had quitted the -cottage to return to Llanberis, he wept so bitterly, and prayed so -earnestly to be permitted to follow her home, that the good people at -Bettwys permitted him to try and overtake her, which they considered he -might easily do, as she had not left the house ten minutes before he -started. - -The mother reached Llanberis in safety; but the poor boy lost his way in -a snow storm on Moel Einion, and was not heard of for more than a week -afterwards; when, one day, a man crossing the mountain, found the child -stretched on the ground in a slumbering position, his face towards the -earth, buried in his hands, and quite dead. - -On the evening when he lost his way, a shepherd, by the name of John -Davis, said he had heard cries, like those of a child, upon the mountain, -which in his ignorance he believed to be the voice of a fairy; and, -terrified at the idea of encountering some supernatural being, he took to -his heels in a contrary direction, with all the speed he could make, -while the poor sufferer, cold and dying, vainly exerted himself in -straining his innocent voice for succour. - -The inhabitants of this neighbourhood have, from time immemorial, held a -strong belief in fairies; and there are many families now living that are -said to have descended from this race, from their having intermarried, in -the olden time, with their ancestors. They are called Pellings, from a -fairy who was named Penelope, and who, while dancing, one moonlight -night, upon the shores of a lake called Cwellyn, was surprised and seized -by a young farmer, who, in spite of her screams, bore her to his own -house, called Yestrad, near Bettws, where he treated her with so much -kindness, that she became contented to live with him; and they were -married, upon the condition that he should never strike her with iron; -for if he did, she would vanish, and he would never see her again. (I -here thought of the tale told me by the old man in the valley of -Drwstynrnt and was struck with the similarity they bore to each other.) -Unfortunately, as the farmer and his wife went out into the field one -day, to catch his horse, he accidentally hit her with the buckle of his -bridle, and she was never seen after. Her descendants are called -Pellings, as are all who imagine they derive their origin from this -fabulous lady. Mr. William Williams, in his observations upon the -Snowdon mountains, says—“The best blood in my own veins is this fairy’s.” - -This belief, existing so strongly in the breasts of many people in this -district, will account for the pusillanimity of the shepherd who fled -from the cries of poor little John Closs. - -The following morning, I proceeded towards Capel Curig, but this road is -very uninteresting. The tourist is, however, amply gratified, if it -happen to be tolerably clear weather, on his arrival at an ancient stone -bridge which crosses a stream that tumbles over some black rocks on the -right, and winds its way in graceful variety, forming a pleasing spot to -rest upon. Looking back towards Llanberis, the mountain scenery is very -fine; and I here took my farewell look of Snowdon and Snowdonia. - - - -CAPEL CURIG - - -Is in the parish of Llandegai. It derives its name from a man who was -canonized, and founded a chapel in this mountainous region. He was the -son of Llendden Llenddog, of Edinburgh. There are here two lakes, and -some tolerable fishing may be had, if you take a boat; but from the banks -it is quite useless to attempt it. From this spot, excursions may be -made to Llanberis and - - - -MOEL SIABOD, - - -From the summit of which a magnificent view is obtained of the mountains -of Snowdonia, of nine different lakes, and the sea beyond Carnaervon. -The distance from the inn to the apex of this mountain does not exceed -three miles and a half. - - - -DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE, - - -Situated about five miles from Capel Curig, and on the eastward side of -Moel Siabod, deserves notice. It is built upon a lofty rock, which on -one side is inaccessible. There are two square towers, and a court in -the middle. It is surrounded by mountains, and must in ancient days have -been a fortress of considerable importance. It is said, Llewellyn the -great was born in the castle; and this fact is sufficient to interest the -stranger who is capable of appreciating and feeling reverence for a hero, -who so long struggled with unwearied assiduity and unconquerable bravery, -for his native land, and who fought and died in the sacred cause of -liberty. - - * * * * * - -Within four miles of Capel Curig is an oval lake, of about three miles in -circumference, called _Llyn Ogwen_, which must by no means be overlooked. -The scenery around is delightful, and the waters are well stored with -excellent trout of fine flavour, and surpassing all others in that -respect, in the Carnaervonshire lakes. - -At the western end of this lake, are the falls of _Benglog_, (being three -in number and upwards of one hundred feet in height) from whence the -waters take their course through Beavers’ Hollow, a wild and romantic -glen, rocky and barren. - -Powel, in his History of North Wales, says, “In Tevi, above all the -rivers in Wales, were, in Giraldus’s time, a great number of castels, -which may be Englished beavers, and are called in Welsh avane, which name -onlie remaineth in Wales at this daie, but what it is, very few can tell. -It is a beast not much unlike an otter, but that it is bigger, all hearie -saving the taile, which is like a fishe taile as broad as a man’s hand. -This beast useth as well the water as the land; and hath a voice, sharp -teeth, and biteth cruellie till he perceives the bones cracke * * * * He -that will learn what strong nests they make, which Giraldus calleth -castells, which they build upon the face of the water with great bowes, -which they cut with their teeth, and how some lie upon their backs -holding the wood with their fore feet, which the other draweth with a -crosse stick, the which he holdeth in his mouth, to the water’s side, and -other particularities of their natures, let him read Giraldus in his -Topographie of Wales.” - -In this stream are found the fresh water muscle, which the country people -call _cregyn deluw_, i.e. _shells of the deluge_, supposed to have been -brought into it by Noah’s flood. - -On the left of the lake are the _Crags of Trifaen_; huge shattered -ridges, which overhang the pool and keep it in continual shadow, while -the sides of Braich-ddu slope gradually to the lake’s margin. The -Francôn mountains, in the distance, are astonishingly grand, and -altogether this lake scene may be considered the finest in -Caernarvonshire. - -A gentleman in the winter of 1831, was driving along the road which -skirts the borders of the lake, when upwards of a thousand tons of rock -fell from the heights of Benclog, a little below the falls into Nant -Francôn, a short time after he had passed them, and he beheld one portion -roll into the valley and river, while the other rested upon the road he -had just travelled, rendering it impossible for any carriage to proceed -by that route, until the obstruction was removed. - -A mile distant from Llyn Ogwen is another lake, well worthy of being -visited, which lies in a deep hollow of the Glyder mountains called - - - -LLYN IDWAL, - - -where the gloomy horror of the scenery is most appalling; particularly -the terrific chasm of _Twll Ddu_, or the Black Cleft. This spot derived -its name from the following crime, which was perpetrated here. - -Prince Owain Gwynedd, who reigned in the twelfth century, had a favourite -called _Nefydd Hardd_, to whose care he intrusted his son _Idwal_, and -who betraying his trust, commanded his son _Dunawt_ to destroy the young -prince, a crime which he too faithfully obeyed, perpetrating the cruel -deed at this place. But, being discovered, Nefydd, and his posterity, -were degraded from the rank of nobles to bondsmen, and Rhun, the son of -Dunawt, who again became possessed of the property of his ancestors, -granted the ground upon which the church of Llanrwst now stands, as an -expiatory gift for the foul crime imputed to his father. The grave of -Idwal is still pointed out by the inhabitants, close to the lake. - -The scenery around is well calculated to inspire fear in the timid, as -being adapted to the committal of atrocity of any kind. Bleak, black, -desolate and stern, it thrills the beholder with an indescribable -sensation of terror. - -The lake is well stored with fish, of a darker colour than those in the -Ogwen, and of a less delicate flavour. These lakes are in the parish of -Llan Tegai, so called from its patron saint _Tegai_, the son of _Ithol -Hael_, a nobleman of Amorica, brother to Credifael and Flewin, who built -Penmynydd and Llanflewin, in Anglesea, about the year 636. _See Roland’s -Mona Antiqua Rest_. _p._ 189. - -After a delightful day’s ramble amongst this wild and sublime scenery, I -returned to the inn at Capel Curig, and on the following morning took the -road to Llanrwst, which in a short time becomes particularly interesting. -The dark and comfortless sterility is exchanged for a delightful valley, -with luxuriant woods, which stretch to the summit of the hills upon -either side; and near the two mile stone is one of the most picturesque -cottages imaginable, placed on the side of a hill above the bridge, which -crosses the river Llugwy, and gives additional beauty to the romantic -dell. Half a mile beyond is an observatory, which stands upon the -highest point of a towering cliff, a portion of whose summit is clothed -with purple heath, and the remainder presents a face of grey barren rock, -while beneath a forest of rich foliage creeps from its base far up the -craggy sides. - -Within a mile of this place are the celebrated waterfalls, called - - - -RHAIADR Y WENNOL, - - -i.e. the Spout of the Swallow—a cataract of about sixty feet in width. -The river, at the top of the first fall, flows in an unbroken sheet, but -soon becomes dispersed in various streams that dash and struggle through -the impending masses of rock, charming the ear with their complicated -roar. At the second fall, it rushes in a collected volume into the -boiling vortex, from whence, at the third, it is dispersed in spray. A -small wicket gate by the road side, leads to a footpath through the -grounds, to the falls, where the visitor cannot fail to find an adequate -reward for his digression. The old oak trees that overhang the ravine -are beautifully grouped. On one side, a large rock rises perpendicularly -nearly 500 feet, and the earth is clothed with velvet moss and decked -with wild flowers. Fancy would picture just such a retreat, for a -wandering sylph! while the rays of light, darting through the greenwoods, -remind us of the flittings of Sir John Wynne’s ghost, which was said to -haunt this glen for many years, but is now laid at rest in the depths of -the lower fall. Journeying onward, I reached the village of - - - -BETTWS Y COED, - - -which being translated is the Station in the Wood; and a most delightful -station it is. The Shrewsbury and Holyhead road run through it, and the -junction of the Llugwy and the Conway rivers is at no great distance. -The church is a venerable structure, and contains an old monument, -erected to the memory of Griffith, the son of David Gôch, who was a -natural son of David, the brother of Llywellyn, the last Prince of Wales. -He died in the fourteenth century, and a stone statue of him is in a -recess on the north side of the church, with this inscription: “Hic jacet -Gruffydd ap Davyd Gôch, agnus Dei misere mei.” - -At about a mile from Bettws is an iron bridge of one arch, which carries -the Holyhead road over the river Conway. Its span is 105 feet, and it is -called the Waterloo Bridge, from its having been erected in the year that -tremendous battle was fought. But the principal object is, - - - -PONT-Y-PAIR, - - -the Bridge of the Caldron. It has four arches, and the natural rock -supplies it with piers, that seem to defy the efforts of time or the fury -of the waters. Immediately above the bridge is the fall and salmon leap. -The river rolls and plunges into a deep reservoir below. The grandeur of -the scene during the floods, I was informed, surpasses imagination, and, -unfortunately for me, the heat of the sun had dried them up, when I -visited this celebrated spot. - -For this bridge the inhabitants are indebted to one Howell, a mason, who -resided at Penllyn in the year 1468; and, having occasion to attend the -assizes at Conway, he was unexpectedly prevented from passing the Lleder -by the fury of the flood. That a similar disappointment might not occur -to others, he erected a wooden bridge across that river, and trusted to -the generosity of travellers to remunerate him. The success of this -attempt encouraged him to erect the bridge at Bettws y Coed, which is now -called Pont y Pair, but he died before it was completed. - -Upon the right of this bridge is Carrey y Gwalch, or the Rock of the -Falcon, well clothed with trees, through which the bald cliffs peep, like -a body of sharp shooters from a brush wood, anxious to escape detection. -In this rock is a recess called the cave of Shenkin, a celebrated outlaw, -who found shelter here from the unremitting efforts of justice during the -reign of Edward IV. - -The entrance to this spot is blocked up by a large piece of rock, and the -following legend is seriously related by the old women of the -neighbourhood. - - - -OGO AP SHENKIN. - - -In the reign of our seventh Henry, when the civil wars which desolated -the hearths of rich and poor, ceased to afflict the nation, and peace and -plenty once more spread their smiling influence throughout the land, -there lived near this village a man, called Jordan ap Jordan, a -wood-cutter and goatherd, whose time was occupied between watching his -goats upon the mountains, and felling trees in the forest. He was a -short square built man, with a squint eye and a blue nose. He was -thought to be half distracted between the desires of a miser, and the -vices of a drunkard; for, whenever one passion predominated, he raved -like a bedlamite at the other, and he who shunned him in the morning for -his sordid qualities would fairly take to his heels at full speed, to -avoid him in the evening when he was in his cups. - -Jordan was, therefore, generally shunned by his neighbours, and would -often repair to the bridge of the Caldron, to meditate upon future -wealth, or to roar out his bacchanalian stanzas to his unwearied -companion the waterfall. He was fond of a thundering accompaniment, and -here he was gratified to his heart’s fondest wish. The superstitious -peasantry were often alarmed, as they passed the bridge after twilight, -to their several homes, to hear his unearthly raving mingled with the -sound of the cataracts, and to see his ungainly form perched upon the -parapet of the bridge, which they often mistook for an evil spirit. One -morning, before daybreak, as he was gradually recovering from his -evening’s excess, the grasping fiend of avarice seized upon his heart, as -was often the case, when he reflected on his extravagance on the -foregoing night; and, after venting many bitter curses upon all earthly -spirits (alias drams) prayed most devoutly to all spirits, celestial, for -a plentiful accession of worldly pelf, to add to his store, which he had -concealed in the hollow of a certain tree; when “a still small voice,” -which even the roar of the torrent permitted him to hear, whispered to -him that Ogo ap Shenkin might contain “something worth seeking for.” - -This cave, as I have before mentioned, was the retreat of the celebrated -Shenkin; and, although the bold outlaw had long ceased to commit his -depredations, the place of his resort was held in dread by the -superstitious peasantry, who firmly believed that his spirit was to be -seen every night, prowling about the gap, to terrify and torment all poor -souls who ventured to wander near this haunted ground. - -The woodman pricked up his ears at the sound of the voice, and, after -turning the thing over and over again in his mind, and weighing the pros -and cons in the scale of his bewildered judgment, he determined to -venture on the experiment. “For,” thought he, “though ghosts walk by -night, I never heard of their venturing out by day;” and hastening home -he replenished his bottle, which he thought it prudent to take with him -in case of frights and sights, which an application to it might enable -him to endure with fortitude. - -It was yet grey morning, and the mist still lay in the valley, as Jordan -ap Jordan advanced his _blue light_ in the direction of Shenkin’s cave; -one eye peering in the direction of the hollow, and the other traversing -the craggy mountain tops and down the hills’ sides, like a vagrant scout -watching the enemy’s motions or looking out for squalls. - -The heavy fog was now fast rising on the mountain’s side, obscuring the -mouth of the cave so completely that Jordan was very often compelled to -apply his mouth to the flask, in order to rectify the effects of the -unwholesome dew, which he inhaled by gallons. - -Thicker and thicker came on the fog, and lighter and lighter became the -flask; until what with one thing, and the other, he scarce knew whether -his track lay to the right, or to the left; and, but for the consolation -of the spirit, he would infallibly have been _routed by terror_; but as -it was, he only acknowledged to being _overcome with liquor_, and his -reluctance to confess so much was only conquered on finding himself -stretched half way into the cave, without the power of resuming his -standing position. While he lay thus sprawling and unable to rise, -gazing with “lack lustre eye” into the gloomy recess, he fancied he -beheld some lights flickering at a distance, dancing up and down, and -running to and fro! His hair stood on end with fright, his eyes almost -started from his head with curiosity, and the liquor evaporating, as his -terror became stronger, he miraculously recovered the use of his legs, -which he instantly endeavoured to make use of in escaping from the -cavern. But, to his utter consternation, he discovered that the entrance -was closed up, and an appalling noise of a long drawn, ba-a-a-a-a! made -him look once more in the direction of the lights. - -He now fancied he saw only two, but they grew larger and larger, till -they resembled two moons. And presently he heard a buzzing sound, as if -a thousand bees were about his ears; and on a sudden the cave became -lighted up with a thousand torches, for it seemed to have expanded to an -incredible magnitude; and, in the centre, upon a huge oaken chest well -bound with iron clasps, stood a goat of prodigious size, with a beard -which seemed to be of ten times the magnitude commonly given by artists -to Aaron the high priest. Full, shaggy, and venerable did it appear. -His horns, like mighty corkscrews, issued from his forehead, terminating -in two portentous points; and his eyes,—for they were his eyes, which -Jordan’s disconcerted vision had mistaken for moons—were fixed upon a -clasped book, the leaves of which he was deliberately turning over with -his right fore hoof, as if he cared no more for Jordan ap Jordan’s -proximity, than if he had been one of his own species. - -The woodman being by this time perfectly sober, felt his desire of wealth -grow stronger than fear; and he could not help thinking that the oaken -chest contained the treasure he so much coveted. - -“You’re perfectly right,” said the goat, answering to the thought of -Jordan, without taking his eyes off the book he was perusing; “and you -shall see the treasure.” Then touching a spring with his fore paw, the -side of the chest flew open, and Jordan saw more gold than he ever -thought the world contained, and every piece stamped with the king’s -head. Jordan, with his natural impulse, rushed forward to grasp some of -the shining coin! but, the goat presented his horns to him, saying, “If -you touch any of this coin before it is properly prepared, instant death -will be your fate,” and then, with a loud ba-a-a-a-a, he summoned a -number of grave elders about him, to whom he gave suitable directions, -and these presently kindled some dry wood upon a slab of rock, and put an -iron pot with a spout to it over the flames, while Jordan wondered to see -them use their cloven feet so cleverly in adjusting matters as occasion -required. These preparations being completed, they took from the chest -large bags full of gold, and emptied them into the iron pot, one after -the other, until it was completely full; and then commenced dancing round -it on their hinder legs, ba-a-a-a-ing most inharmoniously. This ceremony -continued some time, when lo! the coin being fusible, melted, and became -a burning liquid. - -“Now,” said the monster goat to Jordan-ap-Jordan, “I will make thee a man -of gold! Thou dost thirst for gold and shalt have more than thou -desirest. Swallow thou this pot of boiling metal, and fear not. The -heat will have no effect upon thee—so drink—drink and be wealthy!” - -Jordan looked upon the molten gold as it sparkled and became agitated in -the vessel, and, stooping to take a closer inspection, was surprised to -find it destitute of heat, though still retaining its liquidity! Having -ascertained this fact, he made no hesitation in obeying the goat’s -commands, and took huge draughts of the precious fluid, which, like warm -jelly, flowed smoothly and agreeably into his capacious maw. No sooner -had he drained the measure, than the venerable goat leaped from the -chest, and presenting his terrific horns, cried, “Now Jordan, fly for -your life;” at the same time, making a charge upon his rear, which -completely ejected him from the cavern at full speed. No sooner had he -passed the cavern’s mouth, than he tumbled with violence to the ground; -and at the same moment a huge mass of rock fell from the summit of the -hill, and effectually blocked up the entrance of Ogo ap Shenkin. - -It was mid-day when Jordan quitted the cave, and the sun shone in all its -brilliant beauty. Filled with wealth and wonder, he hastened towards his -cottage, calculating all the way the prodigious extent of his riches. - -“I must take care of myself now,” said Jordan, “for, if by any chance, my -secret should be discovered, I shall share the fate of the goose that -laid the golden eggs.” - -This reflection made him uneasy; and as he was frequently hailed, in -sport or ridicule, by the shepherd lads from the mountains, he quickened -his speed to avoid observation. - -For ten years after this, Jordan was never seen except at night, and then -it was only for a moment and upon the bridge. He was like a phantom -there—and gone in an instant. No one saw him in his former occupation; -his cottage was deserted, and he lived, no one knew where. - -The gradual decay of his wardrobe was noticed, as at various times he was -recognised by those to whom he was formerly known; until, at length, he -was entirely destitute of every article of clothing; and a village curate -was, one bleak and wintry night, roused from his bed, by the moaning of -some human creature, apparently at the threshold of his door. He let him -in, pale, emaciated, naked, and ghost like. He placed him, shivering, on -his bed; and the dying creature glared wildly about the apartment, as he -exclaimed in terror, - -“Take care they don’t steal me.” - -“Who?” inquired the good curate. - -“The world—all the world, are looking for me,” replied the wretch; “but I -shall escape them yet. You are a good man; you would not rob the dead, -would you?” - -“Heaven forbid,” he replied. - -“Ay, ay, you fear Heaven—you fear its curses here, and its vengeance -hereafter. I think I may trust you, as I have not above an hour to live. -Look at me! don’t you see what they hunt me for? I’m all gold!—a man of -gold!—robbers seek for me, to buy them food!—Spendthrifts hunt after me, -to pay their debts!—Women grasp at me, to purchase jewels!—And kings lay -snares for me, to gorge and fatten!” - -He then related his wonderful adventure in Ogo ap Shenkin; and, as he -concluded it, exclaimed, - -“Bury me safely. You make take my little finger, that will pay all -expenses, but don’t break up my body—to—to—to—” and the hypochondriac -expired. {304} - - * * * * * - -There is no doubt that the vision of the goat and the chest of wealth, -was a dream after one of Jordan’s drunken bouts, which produced so -powerful an impression upon his mind, that it banished the few wits -intoxication had left him. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - -A Mistake—Road to Llanrwst—Gwydir Castle—Llanrwst Shaking Bridge—Inn—The -Theatre—Town Hall—Free Schools—Alms Houses—Rhaiadr y Parc Mawr—Llynn -Giwionydd—Taliesin—Trefriw—Slate Quarries—Conway—The Suspension -Bridge—The Castle—Local Customs—A Phrenologist—Excursion to the Ormes’ -Head—The Smuggler—The Bump of _Order_. - - “On a rock whose haughty brow - Frowned o’er old Conway’s foaming flood, - Rob’d in a sable garb of woe, - With haggard eye, the poet stood.” - - GRAY. - -As I stood taking a farewell look of this beautiful village, with my -knapsack on my back, and fishing rod in my hand, I was suddenly roused -from my reverie, by a slap on the shoulder, and, on turning my head, I -perceived an old woman, who held out to me some half dozen, much soiled, -silver tea spoons, addressing me at the same time in Welsh: she might as -well have spoken to me in the language of the ancient Chaldees. However, -I took the spoons in my hands, and, after turning them over and over for -some time, and endeavouring to elicit her meaning without success, I -shook my head as gravely as my Lord Burleigh is made to do, in Sheridan’s -entertainment of the Critic, and returned them to their venerable owner. -Disappointment made the wrinkles of her aged forehead deeper than usual, -and I was turning to resume my journey, when a flash of intelligence -crossed her smoke-dried visage, and, making a sign for me to stop, she -ran into her cottage, and presently returned, her face glowing like a hot -coal, with an old umbrella in her hand, which she displayed fantastically -in every way she thought likely to attract my notice, making use of -sundry pantomimic gestures, none of which could I understand; and I began -to think myself in company with some unhappy creature escaped from -Bedlam. I again attempted to proceed with more earnestness than before, -when, to my astonishment, a pair of grey, much worn, inexpressibles were -held up to my eyes, while the gesticulations of the old woman became -stronger and stronger, and I at length discovered, that I had been -mistaken for a travelling pedlar by the old beldam, who wished to -exchange the articles she produced for something with which she imagined -my knapsack was furnished! - -Within half a mile from the town of Llanrwst is - - - -GWYDIR CASTLE, - - -the property of Lord Willoughby d’Eresby, a family mansion of no very -attractive appearance. It is situated on the right of the road, which -winds between it and a lofty wood-clad precipice, called Carreg-y-Gwalch, -or the Rock of the Falcon. It was built by John Wynne ab Meredydd, in -1555, and has lately undergone some alteration. The breakfast parlour -contains a curious carving of the arms of the Gwydir family, supported by -Julius Cæsar and Augustus; the former holding his commentaries in one -hand, and his sword in the other; the latter, his sword only. The -dining-room has some specimens of carving, that are worthy of -observation; but throughout the mansion there is very little of what -belonged to it originally. The chairs, panelling, and even tables, being -coloured for the purpose of giving the apartments the appearance of -antique splendour, which, until lately, they wanted. - -The drawing-room is spacious and lofty, and is lighted by a double row of -windows, which gives it a heavy look: this unusual arrangement was caused -by the removal of the dormitory, to give height to this room. Over the -fire place is a finely executed carving of Julius Cæsar in oak. At the -N.W. end of the room, a piece of tapestry represents a vintage, and at -the S.E. another specimen of needlework commemorates the landing of -Charles V at Grenada. - -The coronation chair of George II is shewn in this apartment, and the -footstool used by Queen Caroline on her trial at Westminster Hall. There -is a centre table, very richly ornamented with carved work; and another, -which in shape exactly resembles the slab and pedestal of a tombstone, so -that the visitor, naturally enough walks up to it, expecting to see the -customary, “Hic jacet” etc. - -The cradle of Sir Richard Wynne, bearing the date 1634, completes the -list of curiosities contained in this room. - -The garden, which is extensive, contains some valuable plants and shrubs, -and the terrace is a pleasant promenade, sloping from which are beds of -exceedingly beautiful flowers, of various classes and descriptions. -After satisfying the housekeeper with a trifling gratuity, I proceeded to -Llanrwst, but halted upon the bridge to take a view of the Conway (over -which beautiful river its arches expand), and the town to which it leads. -I was here accosted by an old man, who asked me, “if I should like to -feel the bridge shake?” As I answered in the affirmative, he desired me -to place my back against the side over the centre arch, and striking the -opposite parapet rather heavily with his own, a tremulous motion was -distinctly felt; on this account, it is called the Shaking Bridge. It -was built in 1636, from a plan of the celebrated Inigo Jones, and cost -£1000, which was defrayed by the counties of Denbighshire and -Caenarvonshire, which it unites. - - - -LLANRWST - - -is built upon the Denbighshire side of the river. The Three Eagles is -the most commodious inn in the town; and, being rather fatigued, I threw -my limbs upon a sofa, and resigned myself to the drowsy god, first taking -especial care to order a substantial repast to be in readiness for me on -my return from the land of Nod. My last waking recollection was the -words of Mr. Lover’s favourite song, - - “There’s no use at all in my going to bed, - For it’s dhrames and not sleep, that comes into my head.” - -Dreams, however, did not picture my slumbers, and I awoke to the -unrivalled delight of a weary and hungry traveller—an excellent hot -dinner. While the waiter cleared the table, and put on the desert, I -took a glance from the windows at the market-place and town-hall; against -the latter were pasted sundry bills, some of which bore, I thought, a -strong resemblance to the dramatic announcements. - -“What bills are those?” said I to the waiter, as he placed my pint of -port before me. - -“Play bills, sir.” - -“What, have you a theatre here?” said I, opening my eyes with -astonishment. - -The man stared, appeared confused and stammered, and, supposing me -shocked at the immoral announcement, proceeded to assure me, that -although the players were tolerated, they had very little patronage, -“Indeed, sir,” continued he, “such vagabonds do a great deal of harm to -business; we feel it, sir. Now to-night there is a bespeak, which will -do us a serious injury, for we have no less than six visitors who are -going!” - -“A bespeak, eh! and who bespoke the play?” - -“Oh, sir, ’tis Mr. —.” - -“Mr. —!” I exclaimed, with a sort of inquiring glance, which occasioned -the waiter to look more ridiculous than ever. - -“Do you mean Mr. —, of Belmont?” - -“Yes, sir, that’s the gentleman.” - -No sooner had I received this information, than filling my glass, “His -honored health!” I cried, adding the words of the bard, - - “May never-fading laurels flourish round him, - And consecrate his name ev’n to Time’s end!” - -“Bring me a bill of the play,” said I. The man withdrew with much -apparent reluctance, but shortly returned with one, which, snatching from -his hand, I began eagerly to peruse, until perceiving the increasing -wonderment which stupified the eyes of the waiter, I followed up the -foregoing quotation with another, which I addressed to him in seeming -wrath. - - “The Devil damn thee black, thou cream-faced loon! - Where got’st thou that goose look?” - -which had the desired effect, and relieved me from his presence. - -A month had passed away since I had visited a temple dedicated to Thalia -or Melpomene, and, with all the enthusiasm such divinities inspire, I -hastened to arrange my dress in the best manner possible, to pay them my -devoirs. - -The play was announced to begin at half past seven o’clock. The time had -nearly arrived, and fully anticipating much gratification I reached the -Town Hall. A staircase, not of the cleanest, led to the theatre on the -first floor, and passing some hanging of green-baize, which formed a -narrow passage to the pit and gallery, I was ushered into the former, -which being set apart for the _gentry_, consisted of about six forms, -such as are used in schools, and ranged behind each other. A barrier of -the most unostentatious fabric stretched across the room from wall to -wall, behind which were about the same number of forms, arranged in like -manner, this back portion being denominated the gallery. As I entered, I -perceived a fine portly gentleman, seated in a large elbow chair at the -extremity of the first form, whose countenance was lighted up by half a -dozen candles, that flared magnificently within three feet of the front -row, and divided the stage from the audience. “There needed no ghost” to -tell me that this was the gentleman who had honored the theatre by his -patronage on that occasion, and to whom I was the bearer of a letter of -introduction, then in my pocket-book. The proscenium was of painted -canvass, and a green curtain of the same material scantily screened the -mysteries which were preparing on the stage. Upon the right of the room, -a temporary box contained the band. Those who have heard the burst of -melodious sounds thunder forth from the orchestra of the opera, which -startles the uninitiated, in an overture of Mozart’s, or in the wild and -stormy grandeur which characterizes the compositions of Weber, may have -some idea of the overpowering effect produced by a violin, played by a -boy about twelve years of age, who was leader of the band, consisting of -one old man of sixty, who rasped fearfully on a violincello, and an -enthusiastic trombone player, who successfully drowned the unskilful -efforts of the other two with the tremendous roar of his elongating -distracter. The front of the house was illuminated by three tallow -candles, one on each side, stuck in tin candlesticks and nailed against -the wall, and one at the extremity of the room. The first piece to be -acted was the _Mid’ night Hour_; after which, I thought it high time to -retire. - -The following morning I employed in paying my respects to the different -gentlemen to whom I had letters, and in gaining what information I could -respecting the objects most worthy of notice in the town, and surrounding -neighbourhood. - -The church and chapel adjoining, were the first subjects to engage my -attention. In the former there is nothing interesting, excepting an -oaken screen, exquisitely carved, which was taken from the Abbey of -Maenan, the gallery for the singers being above it. On the opposite side -is the - - - -GWYDIR CHAPEL. - - -This beautiful structure was erected in the year 1633, by Sir Richard -Wynne, of Gwydir, from a design of Inigo Jones, and was for many years -the burial place of the illustrious family of Gwydir. At the sides of -the chapel, fixed in panels of wood, are several engravings on brass, -illustrative of the personages who are interred below; and in the east -corner is a tablet of white marble, containing the following remarkable -pedigree, comprising a period of 500 years. - - “This chapel was erected A.D. 1633, by Sir Richard Wynne of Gwydir, - in the county of Carnaervon, Knight and Baronet, Treasurer to the - High and Mighty Princess Henrietta Maria, Queen of England, Daughter - of Henry the Fourth, King of France, and Wife to our Sovereign Lord - King Charles; where lyeth buried his father Sir John Wynne, of - Gwydir, Knight and Baronet, son and heir to Morris Wynne, son and - heir to John Wynne, son and heir to Meredith Wynne, which three lie - buried in the Church of Dolwyddelen, with tombs over them. This - Meredith was son and heir to Evan, son and heir to Robert, son and - heir to Meredith, son and heir to Howell, son and heir to David, son - and heir to Griffith, son and heir to Cradock, son and heir to - Roderick, Lord of Anglesea, son to Owen Gwynedd, Prince of Wales, and - younger brother to David, Prince of Wales, who married Emma - Plantaginet, sister to King Henry the Second. There succeeded this - David three princes; His nephew Leolinus Magnus, who married Joan - daughter to King John,—David his son, nephew to King Henry the - Third,—and Llewelyn the last Prince of Wales of that House and line, - who lived in King Edward the First’s time. Sir John Wynne married - Sydney, who lyeth buried here, daughter of Sir William Gerrard, - Knight, Lord Chancellor of Ireland, by whom he had issue, Sir John - Wynne, who died at Lucca, in Italy, Sir Richard Wynne now living, - Thomas Wynne who lyeth here, Owen Wynne now living, Robert Wynne who - lyeth here, Roger Wynne who lyeth here, William Wynne now living, - Maurice Wynne now living, Ellis Wynne who lyeth buried at Whitford, - in the county of Flint, Henry Wynne now living, Roger Wynne who lyeth - here, and two daughters, Mary now living, married to Sir Roger - Mostyn, in the county of Flint, Knight, and Elizabeth now living, - married to Sir John Bodville, in the County of Carnaervon, Knight.” - -Beneath this is a superb engraving of Dame Sarah Wynne, one of the -daughters of the old Chevalier Sir Thomas Middleton of Chirk Castle, and -wife of the above mentioned Sir Richard Wynne; she died June 16th, 1671. -This piece of engraving was executed by one William Vaughan, in a style -of elegance hardly to be met with, and may be justly reckoned among the -first productions of the age in which he lived. - -On the south side are two stately pyramidical columns of variegated -marble, decorated with martial insignias; one to the memory of Meredith -Wynne, the other to Sir John Wynne and Sydney his wife; on their -pedestals are Latin inscriptions on black marble, which have been thus -translated: - - “To the Memory of Meredith Wynne, a descendant of Owen Gwynedd, - Prince of Wales, who, under happy auspices, founded the House of - Gwydir, removed and endowed the Church of Sant Gwyddelen, during the - third tournean expedition, in the fifth year of Henry the Eighth. He - died in the month of March 1525.” - - “To the Memory of John Wynne of Gwydir, Knight and Baronet, with - Sydney the daughter of William Gerrard, Knight, Chancellor of the - Kingdom of Ireland, the wife of his youth, to whom she bore eleven - sons, and two daughters; they lie here waiting the appearance of - Christ in Glory.” - -Between the above Monuments is a small Tablet of white marble to the -Memory of John Wynne ap Meredith, with a Latin inscription to the -following effect: - - “John Wynne ap Meredith, an Inheritor of his - Father’s virtues, a just and pious Man, to - whom Euna his wife brought five sons - and two daughters. He died the - 9th of July 1559.” - -On the floor is a stone effigy in armour, with the feet resting on a lion -couchant, of Howell Coetmore ap Griffith Vychan ap Dafydd Gam, alias -Gôch, natural son to David, Prince of Wales, from whose descendants, -according to tradition, Gwydir was purchased by the Wynnes. - - [Picture: The Coffin of Leolinus Magnus] - -Near to the effigy of Howell Coetmore is the underpart of a stone coffin -in which Llewelyn ap Iorwerth, surnamed the Great, the son-in-law of King -John, was buried at the Abbey of Conwy; to the coffin is fixed a piece of -brass with this inscription: - - “This is the coffin of Leolinus Magnus, Prince - of Wales, who was buried at the Abbey of - Conwy, which upon the dissolution - was removed thence.” - -On going from the chapel to the church, you pass over a large square flag -of free stone, having on its sides a Latin inscription thus translated: - - “To the Memory of the Sons of John Wynne of Gwydir, Knight and - Baronet, who died during their father’s life time: John Knight, was - buried at Lucca, in the free State of Italy, in the year of his age - 30, of our Lord 1613. Robert, who had entered into holy orders, in - the year of his age 24, of our Lord 1617. Thomas, Roger, Thomas, in - their minority.—Death! a vapour! Behold! we have existed.” - -In the chancel, between the reading desk and the communion table, is a -flag of freestone on the remains of Margaret Vaughan, heiress of Caergai; -she was esteemed the Sappho of her age; many of her poetical productions -are still extant. - -The gallery over the reading desk is said to have been removed here from -the Abbey of Aberllechog or Maenan Abbey, upon the dissolution of that -religious house. - -Under the reading desk in the Church, in a pew belonging to Kyffdy, is a -Latin epitaph to the memory of Griffith Lloyd, of Bryniog, Rector of this -parish; this is said to have been written by himself, and has been much -admired for its singularity:—it runs thus: - - “Once the undeserving School-master, - Then the more undeserving Lecturer, - And last of all, the most undeserving Rector of this Parish. - Do not think, speak, or write any thing evil of the Dead.” - -There is a Market Hall, Town Hall, free schools and alms houses. The -latter were erected by Sir John Wynne, in 1610, and received the name of -Jesus Hospital. He endowed them for the reception of twelve poor men, by -ceding the rectorial tithes of Eglwys Fach, which are valued at £200 per -annum. Within a mile of Llanrwst there is a spring, which is much -esteemed for its healthful qualities. The water is soft, and a drop of -sal-volatile mixed with a cup of it, turns it white as milk, while oil of -tartar causes it to assume a pearl colour. If during the tourist’s visit -to Llanrwst there should chance to fall much rain, I would advise him by -all means to view the cataract called - - - -RHAIADR-Y-PARC MAWR, - - -in the valley of Nant Bwlch yr Haiarn, near Gwydir, but otherwise the -minuteness of the stream occasions no extraordinary effect from this -fall, which is about one hundred feet in height. The chief object of -interest, however, in this vicinity, is the celebrated lakes, called - - - -LLYN GEIRIONYDD, - - -upon the borders of which once lived the chief of the Welsh bards, -_Taliesin_. At the eastern side of the lake is a mound, upon the summit -of which there is a kind of hollow, and in it are the remains of an -ancient edifice, which was probably the residence of Taliesin, in the -reign of Maelgwn Gwynedd, king of Britain. Taliesin when an infant was -found by Prince Elphin by the side of a wear belonging to his father -Gwyddno Garanhir, lord of Cantrev Gwaelod. The prince fostered the -infant, and had it liberally educated; and, at a proper age, introduced -him to the court of his father Gwyddno. Upon this occasion, Taliesin -presented the king with a poem, the subject of which was his own history, -and another to the prince, which he called Dyhuddiant Elphin, or the -consolation of Elphin, a translation of which is in Evan’s specimens of -Welsh poetry. - -Taliesin had an opportunity of being serviceable to his benefactor; for -once, when the prince was imprisoned by his uncle Maelgwn, in the castle -of Tejanwy, the magic of his muse effected his release. - -This celebrated bard was the preceptor of Myrddin ap Merfryn, and to him -the lovers of poetry are indebted for five new metres, while the -historian and antiquary are equally benefitted by his accurate -description of the manners and customs of the ancient Britons. - -I quitted Llanrwst on the following morning, and took the road to Conway: -two miles and a half brought me to the pretty village of - - - -TREFRIW, - - -which presents an animated scene. It is situated upon the banks of the -beautiful river Conway, which is navigable up to this point for vessels -of fifty tons burthen, that supply the town and neighbourhood with coals, -lime, groceries, &c. &c. and return laden with slate, supplied from the -adjacent mines and quarries. - -A number of small boats, called coracles, used by the fishermen, are seen -studding the delightful stream, while the larger vessels, towed against -the wind or sailing before it, present a pleasing picture. - -From this place to Conway there is nothing particularly to attract -attention, until you arrive within a mile of that celebrated town, when -from the brow of a hill, is obtained a view of the venerable fortress -erected by the first Edward, and the strongly fortified walls, completely -encompassing the town, and strengthened by massive towers. They are -coeval with the castle, and are built in the form of a Welsh harp, like -those of Caernarvon; but here there are no environs, and the town -presents the same appearance as when the chivalric monarch first -fortified it. - - - -CONWAY. - - -The town derives its name from Cyn (chief) and Wy (river). - -The principal inn is the Castle, which affords every accommodation the -traveller can desire. The Wynnes are celebrated here, as in all parts of -North Wales. In the interior of the town stands _Plas Mawr_, which was -erected in 1585, and is still a remarkable structure; its founder was -Robert Wynne of Gwydir, the uncle of Sir John Wynne the historian. Over -the grand entrance is inscribed, in Greek characters, “_bear and -forbear_,” over which in Roman characters, “J. H. S. X. P. S.” (Jesus -Hominum Salvator et populi salus). The old college is in Castle Street, -and the church is built from the remains of the ancient Cistercian Abbey, -which was founded here by Llewellyn ap Jorwerth, 1185. It contains a -rich baptismal font of gothic structure, with a tablet to the memory of -Nicholas Hookes of the town of Conway, who was the forty-first child of -William and Alice Hookes, and who was himself the father of twenty-seven -children. - - [Picture: Conway Castle] - -During my short stay in Conway, I endeavoured to discover the best view -of the town, which I think is from the eastern side of the river, about -midway between the chain bridge and the mansion of Sir John Hilton. -Nothing can be more interesting. The variety of small craft, sailing and -anchored, before its warlike screen; the castle, with its towers and -turrets, rising in hostile grandeur upon its rocky base; the bridge, and -lovely scenery beyond of purple hills and thriving villages; and the -bright waters sporting with the luxuriant foliage of its woody margin, -create a sensation of delight in the pursuer of picturesque scenery, -which he has probably seldom before experienced. - -Another delightful view may be obtained by ascending the rock, which -overhangs the lodge of the bridge upon its eastern side. A flight of -steps conducts to the summit, where a seat is most conveniently placed -for the accommodation of the lovers of romantic beauty; and the bridge, -although inferior in magnitude to the stupendous work of art which -stretches over Bangor Ferry, commands the admiration of the spectator. -But the chief object of interest is the castle, which surpasses in -picturesque grandeur any building of the kind I ever beheld. I thought -Carnaervon Castle the most beautiful of ruins, but it is not, in my -opinion, to be compared with Conway. The solidity of its structure, and -its expansive site, resembling the fortresses of Syria and the Holy Land, -give to its exterior all that the most romantic imagination could desire. -Its foundation is a rock of slate, and its works are impregnable. -Nothing but famine could, at the time it was erected, have had power to -subdue it. Its walls are from ten to twelve feet in thickness, and it -had formerly a deep and broad moat, on the west and north west sides; -which with the sea washing its base on the east and south, formed -insurmountable barriers to the assailants. - -It was evening when I first entered this noble ruin. The porteress very -ungraciously left me to my meditations after admitting me, locking the -gate after her, and leaving me like a state prisoner in the royal -fortress. I confess I was little pleased with the manners of my -conductress and the solitary situation in which I was placed, and -sensations arose within me like those which a school boy feels when -passing a churchyard at midnight. - -The sun had set, and the deep shadows of eve were darkening into night, -as I stood alone in the court yard, and flitting visions arose before me -of those who crossed its space in distant bygone ages—“the plumed -troops,” and courtly dames, and all the glitter of the olden times. As I -thus stood amongst the ruins, a deep drawn sigh, close by my ear, made my -heart leap into my throat, as I turned to discover from whence it -proceeded. But all was solitude around. The huge festoons of ivy, -unruffled by a breath of air, hung heavily in funereal grandeur on the -walls. As I passed into what had been the banqueting hall, the darkness -increased. It was a noble apartment, and measured 130 feet in length, -and thirty in breadth, in height twenty. Nine windows looked southward, -up the river, and two into the courtyard. In the recesses were stone -seats, capable of accommodating twelve persons; and, as I seated myself -in one of these, my delusion of other days came over me. Here sat the -first Edward, the hero of Palestine; here was the monarch besieged, and -almost reduced by famine; here Hotspur and King Richard held a -conference; and the latter, putting himself into the power of -Northumberland, was betrayed by him, and sent a prisoner to the usurper -Bolingbroke. - - “Life’s but a walking shadow—a poor player, - That struts and frets his hour upon the stage, - And then is heard no more!” - -As I made this apt quotation, another deep and heavy sigh, and a rustling -in the ivy, startled me, and the bird of solitude, the lonely owl, -flapped his heavy wings, and flew past me to a remoter corner of the -ruined hall. I arose, and walked to a small chamber, where there was an -open ornamented casement, and which, as I was afterwards informed, bears -the name of the queen’s oriel; from which there is a pleasant prospect of -part of the ruin and scenery beyond. - -I then proceeded to the terrace, at the south western extremity, which is -on the surface of the rock; and the prospect from this spot, interesting -at all times, is doubly so by moonlight. The suspension bridge beneath, -the ocean on the left, and this fertile valley on the right, with the -sparkling Conway meandering through it, compose a scene of unexampled -beauty. - -In the year 1290, when Edward was engaged in a dispute with the King of -France, and was determined to revenge himself upon that potentate, in -order to obtain supplies, he made the experiment of taxing his newly -acquired Welsh subjects; which they resented by hanging Roger de -Pulesdon, who had been appointed to collect the tax; and by defeating the -English forces, who attempted to enforce them. - -Alarmed at a revolt, which was now rising into importance, and which -threatened to wrest from him his new dominions, Edward entered North -Wales, to conduct the war in person. - -Having proceeded in his march to Conway, he crossed that arm of the sea -with a part of his forces, and retiring into the castle with them, -awaited the arrival of the remainder. In his passage he lost many -waggons, and other carriages, loaded with provisions, which were -intercepted by the Welsh, who came down in multitudes from the mountains, -and invested the castle, upon the land side, while a sudden rise in the -Conway, which prevented his troops from crossing the river and rendering -him assistance, made his situation extremely alarming. He was surrounded -by water and the enemy, cut off from his army, and threatened with -famine. - -The good fortune of Edward, however, returned to him in the hour of need. -The river subsided, and his forces being able to cross to his relief, the -Welsh again retired to the mountains, and the English monarch passed his -Christmas holidays without interruption at the castle. - -In 1665, the Earl of Conway, under pretence of its being for his -majesty’s service, stripped the castle of all its furniture, iron and -lead, and shipped them off to Ireland, otherwise it might have remained -as firm and entire at the present day, as when it was first erected. - -If these Goths were aware of the ignominy they attached to their shields -by acts so disgraceful, they might perhaps have permitted beauty and -grandeur to remain undefiled by their sacrilegious touch. - -The young men still keep up many of the ancient local customs; amongst -which, on Nos Calanmai, or, the eve of the first of May, they hang on the -houses of their sweethearts bunches of rosemary and ribbons. - -At the door of a prude they tie a penglog, or part of a horse’s skeleton. -There is likewise a custom preserved called Stocsio. Upon Easter Sunday, -a great number of boys and men assemble on Pentwthil, with wands of -gorse, to proclaim the laws and regulations which are to be observed upon -the following morning. The last married person is sought to perform this -office, who, mounted on a heap of stones, issues his mandate, while the -rest listen with silent attention. He decrees that all men under sixty -years of age are to appear in the street before six o’clock on the -following morning; and all under forty, before four; and all under twenty -are commanded not to go to bed at all, under penalty of being put into -the stocks. - -The orator then descends, amidst loud cheering, and the assembled parties -separate; the younger branches to form plans of amusement, and the graver -to secure their carts, waggons, and wheelbarrows, with chains and locks, -to prevent their being seized upon the following day; a very necessary -precaution, as every vehicle, unmanacled, or otherwise unsecured, is sure -of being pressed before dawn of day into the service of the light-hearted -youths, who are not over careful of their neighbour’s property during the -uproarious period of their festivity. - -Early in the morning, the stocks are placed at one end of the street, and -a party, marching to the inspiring music of a drum and fife, parade the -town, in order to convey to the place of punishment all seceders from -this ancient law of custom. When they arrive at a house where a rebel -resides, the storming party endeavour by all practicable means to gain -admittance; such as climbing in at the windows, forcing open the back -door, &c., and they generally secure the culprit; who, if he be caught in -bed, is allowed sufficient time to dress himself, and then hurried away -to the stocks, amid the exulting shouts of the assembled multitude. - -His feet being secured, one of the party gives him a severe lecture upon -the sin of idleness, and of breaking old established customs. Then -taking his right hand, he puts questions to him; such as, whether he -would rather kiss the mistress or the maid?—whether he prefers buttermilk -or strong ale?—and the more satisfactory his answers are to the party, -the more thickly his hand is plaistered with mud, until at length he is -released, and, with loud cheering, permitted to join the forces, as they -march off in search of another rebel. - -There is a pearl fishery at Conway, and many poor families are supported -by gathering the muscles, which contain these gems. - -The fish is called by Linnæus _myd margaritefera_. The produce is -transmitted to London in the pure natural state, and easily finds a -market amongst the jewellers, who purchase them by weight, but in the -neighbourhood of Conway the purposes they are appropriated to are -unknown. - -It was my good fortune to meet with a brother tourist at the Castle Inn; -who, after acquainting me with the above facts, offered to conduct me in -the morning to Llandudno, which offer I thankfully accepted; and, before -the sun had finished his draught of mountain dew, we had crossed the -bridge, and were pursuing our course to the appointed spot. The tide was -at low ebb, and a pleasant walk of three quarters of a mile upon the hard -sand brought us to - - - -DINAS GONWY - - -“The fort of the Conway.” By the English, it is called the Gannoc and by -the common people in the neighbourhood “Y Faer dre.” - -The ruins of an ancient castle are to be seen at a short distance, -situated upon two hillocks, near the shore. From thence we crossed by -Eglwy’s Rhôs, where Maelgwn Gwynedd is said to have taken refuge to avoid -the yellow fever, which was committing great havoc in all parts of -Europe. Gloddaeth, the residence of Lady Mostyn Champneys, is sweetly -situated near this place. It was built by her ancestors in the reign of -Elizabeth, and is celebrated for the Welsh manuscripts contained in the -library. The grounds are most tastefully laid out, and the tourist will -find himself amply rewarded for his pains while viewing the extreme -beauty of the scenes around. - - - -LLANDUDNO - - -is built upon a huge mass of rock which projects into the sea, called The -Great Orme’s Head; a small village, where formerly a great deal of -smuggling was carried on; and, as we stood gazing upon the frightful -precipice beneath us, at the base of which the ocean breaks its mighty -bulk, and foams as if enraged at opposition, my companion related a story -of a fisherman’s daughter and her lover, the circumstances of which took -place within view of the position we then occupied. - - - -THE SMUGGLER. - - -“It was my fortune, or rather my misfortune,” said my companion, “some -forty years ago, to take up my quarters at a fisherman’s hut in the -village, who was a widower with one child, a lovely girl of about sixteen -years of age. She performed all the household duties for her father with -the greatest neatness and cheerfulness, and at evening was looked upon by -the youth of the surrounding neighbourhood, as the gayest and handsomest -lass that tripped upon the hard sands to the music of a blind harper, who -lived in the vicinity. Many a time as I stood and saw her light feet -moving in the inspiring dance, have I said to myself, it would be a pity -now if so light a foot should ever carry a heavy heart. Poor Jane! she -was the sweetest wild flower of the cliff—nursed in storm and tempest, -yet in her simplicity more winning to the heart and eye than the proudest -exotic luxury could produce. I took a pleasing interest in her; and for -the attention she paid me, resolved upon improving her education to the -extent of my ability, which I considered an easy task, for the organ of -veneration, I observed, was large, which induced me to think she -respected those who took an interest in her welfare. Benevolence and -hope were equally prominent, and, when this happy association appears, -the leading feature of such persons’ characters may be perceived in the -religious obedience they pay to all those who are anxious to instruct -their minds and purify their thoughts. I felt notwithstanding, -considerable anxiety for her future welfare; for at the lower part and -back of the head, between the _mastoid processes_ and the _occipital -bone_, I had noticed an enlargement, which I knew, combined as it was -with the moral sentiments and the organs of adhesiveness, strongly -developed, would either prove the blessing or the bane of her existence, -as these opposites depended not only upon the man’s disposition to whom -she might yield her affections, but to the destiny of that man, -successful or disastrous. And I had frequent opportunities of observing -that she had a strong partiality for a youth who was possessed of -personal and mental qualifications far beyond those of his associates, -but who was wild, with the bump of marvellousness extremely prominent.” - -“Zounds,” said I, “if you cover your story with so many excrescences, I -shall never be able to remember one half of it.” - -My companion smiled benevolently, as he replied, I perceive you lack the -organ of _individuality_; and then resumed the thread of his discourse. -After remaining with them nearly three months, during which I may give -myself credit for having made good use of my time in improving the -manners and intellect of my docile pupil, I took leave of the fisherman -and his daughter, promising to pay them a visit in the course of a month, -before I returned to merry England. Tears stood in the eyes of poor Jane -as I turned to quit the cottage, and the old father squeezed my hand with -a cordiality that effectually stopped the circulation of my blood in that -extremity. Mark, her lover, seemed neither sorry nor pleased, but -leaning his broad back against the white-washed wall of the cottage, -whistled with the greatest composure, “The jovial fellow’s farewell.” - -After a month’s ramble, I returned to this spot on a dark, stormy day in -October;—it was indeed a dreary evening. The rain fell in torrents, and -the hoarse sound of the surge came heavily upon my ear as I approached -the cottage of my late worthy host; when suddenly, as I lifted my eyes -from the ground, I perceived a number of persons walking in slow -procession, as from a funeral, and a cold shudder came over me as I -recognised the father of Jane; his white locks exposed to the beating -rain, his head bent to the ground, and his hands clasped upon his breast, -in the action of mental agony. - -Thinking my visit would prove ill-timed, I proceeded to a small -public-house, and, while my garments were drying at the fire, I managed -to extract from the landlord, that the funeral of Jane Morgan had just -taken place. Astonishment and sorrow chained my tongue for some time; I -shall never forget the sensations I experienced at this mournful -relation. I sat motionless in my chair, without uttering a syllable for -a full hour, or noticing anything that transpired around me during that -time. I could think of nothing but Jane Morgan; I could see nothing but -her young blooming face and yellow locks, which used to glitter like -threads of gold in the sunbeams, as the fresh sea breeze blew them into a -thousand fantastic waves; her airy form, as it flew along the sand on -which her light foot scarcely left a print; her simple dress; all this I -brought to my “mind’s eye,” and afterwards the church-yard where she was -laid a corpse—I burst into tears. - -Her lover, Mark Bratts, who had for more than a twelvemonth paid -courtship to poor Jane, had obtained her father’s consent to their union, -whenever he could realize a sufficient sum to begin the world with in a -prudent and respectable way. The precarious life of a fisherman, -however, appeared to Mark to hold out but little prospect of wealth -enough either to gain or to support a wife; and he resolved upon -obtaining the object of his wishes as speedily as possible in some other -way. - -A man named Simpson, a notorious smuggler in the neighbourhood, was known -to have amassed a considerable property, and Mark resolved to offer -himself to serve as one of the crew on board his lugger; hoping, that in -a trip or two, he might earn sufficient to claim his promised bride. He -was accepted aboard; and the day following the little vessel spread her -light sails to the breeze, and took her course for Holland. Mark -possessed a little money which he laid out in a venture, trusting thereby -to clear so much as would enable him to claim as his bride the object of -his love. - -It was a stormy day when the inhabitants of Llandudno were roused by the -report of guns from seaward, the wind blowing furiously right on shore. -It was about the time that the smuggler’s vessel was expected, and those -interested in her safe arrival hastily ran to this promontory to -ascertain if she was in sight, or in danger, for a king’s cutter was -known to be cruising on the coast. It was just dawn; the sea was running -mountains high; and within a league of the rocks they perceived two -vessels within half a mile of each other. The first was a small lugger, -carrying a press of canvass that seemed to run her hull under as she made -directly for the headland, and her masts bent like reeds to the fury of -the tempest. As she approached the headland, a number of kegs piled one -upon another on the decks, were observed to vanish into the deep by -dozens, being flung overboard by the busy crew. They were within a mile -of the shore, when the revenue cutter, hauling her wind, poured a -broadside of grape shot into the smuggler, so well directed that several -were seen to fall from their stations in various parts of the vessel. -Still they carried every stitch of canvass, knowing that there was water -enough for the light lugger to cross the bar after they had rounded the -point, and that the revenue cutter would be sure to strike upon the sands -if she attempted to follow them half a mile further, being of much -heavier tonnage. Besides, she was already in some peril, by venturing so -far in shore, with a gale blowing heavily from the north east. - -She was soon within hail of the head, and the cliffs were covered with -human beings, gazing eagerly upon the little craft beneath it, when -suddenly, a chain shot from the cutter carried away her mainmast, which -fell over the side. To cut away the stays and clear the wreck, was the -work of a minute, and the smuggler’s bark swept like a sea bird round the -great Ormes head into the Bay of Conway, but not until their pursuers had -sent another broadside into her hull as they stood off shore. As the -Typhon, the name of the king’s vessel turned from the pursuit; the daring -outlaws sent up a shout of triumph, which was echoed from those upon the -rocks, and after a slight shock which the lugger received, as she crossed -the sand-bank, they floated safely in smooth water. - -But where was Jane? Foremost of that crowd which gathered on the rocks, -when the firing was first heard, flew the light form of the loving -maiden, like a young eagle glaring for its mate. She stood upon the -extreme verge of the cliff, unconscious of every thing, save the peril of -her lover, her eyes fixed upon the vessels, straining as they would crack -their strings, to discover the form of him who had her heart in keeping; -and, as the vessel glided under the headland, she hung over the brink of -the precipice, gazing upon the dead and dying, with whom the decks were -strewed. But she saw him not. With the swiftness of the seamew, she -followed the course of the smuggler along the shore; and when at last she -saw the white sails gathered to the yards, and the vessel riding safely -at anchor in the rocky bay, she leaped into a boat, and rowed herself to -its side. A moment, and she jumped upon the deck, calling wildly for -poor Mark. But no one answered her. With hair dishevelled, and eyes -glancing fire, she turned each dead man’s face up to the sky. At length, -a headless trunk met her distracted gaze. A bright gold ringlet of hair, -tinged with the smuggler’s blood, and fastened to the breast of his -shirt, the blue pea-jacket she gave Mark at his departure, and the brass -buckles which her father wore, and presented to him as a pledge of future -favour, all flashed conviction on her mind, that it was the mutilated -form of her lover. A wild scream, which struck terror into the hearts of -the daring crew, proclaimed her heart was broken; and falling on his -mangled corse she instantly expired. - -This was the melancholy end of the lovers. And you may remember that I -said her happiness or misery would depend not only on the disposition of -the man she loved, but upon his future destiny; the organs of amativeness -and adhesiveness being so largely developed. - - * * * * * - -Here an object attracted his attention at a short distance, and he -suddenly left off speaking to examine the scull of a melancholy donkey, -which stood gazing upon the waste of waters. - -Having carefully examined the animal’s pericranium, on which he made some -scientific remarks, elaborately pointing out the distinguishing -characteristics of the quadruped and biped race, I reminded him that it -was high time to retrace our steps to Conway, and, as we trudged along, -he related a story of rather a whimsical nature, which, as it tended to -illustrate his favorite science, afforded me much amusement. - - - -THE BUMP OF ORDER. - - -He lived, he said, at one time opposite to a house where resided a newly -married couple. The house had the appearance of particular neatness, the -flag stones before the door being white as snow, as were those supporting -the railing of the area. The ledges of the windows were in keeping with -the rest, and the windows themselves were perfectly unstained. The -curtains below were of green damask, and above of elegant chintz, with -pink linings. A variety of plants bloomed in the balcony, and the pots -were ranged in precise order. - -It greatly excited his curiosity, that every week, for upwards of a -twelvemonth, he saw one or two new servants. It appeared that one week -was the longest period the lady ever permitted any menial to remain in -the house. - -This circumstance created some surprise, as, during the time, he had -never observed a single gentleman or lady knock at their door. - -He had an opera glass, through which he took every opportunity of -examining their heads across the street. At length, his bump of -curiosity over-mastering every other consideration, determined him to -seek an occasion of becoming acquainted with the lady of the house. For -this purpose, he dressed himself with peculiar nicety, and stepping over, -intimated by a rat-tat-tat that he was at the door. A female servant -answered the summons, and ushered him into the parlour, where the lady -was seated gazing with a vacant stare upon some pots of geraniums, which -occupied a niche in the apartment. When a lady receives a visit from a -gentleman she has never been introduced to, it is natural for her to look -in his face, and an opinion is too frequently formed by the -Lavater-loving sex, of the character, at first sight, of the being before -them. But Mrs. — took a very different view of my philosophical friend; -for her eyes fell from the geraniums to the toes of her visitor, as if -she had the art of discovering the character of a man by the state of his -boots. - -“I hope you will excuse the appearance of a stranger at”— - -The lady interrupted him with, “None of the cleanest, indeed, Mr. -Thingumbob. Good God, Susan, why did’nt you tell him to wipe his feet on -the mat!” - -“I beg you will excuse,”—continued my friend, apologizing. - -“Well, I suppose I must excuse. My gracious! what are you doing, sir? -you’ve put your nasty wet hat upon my beautiful rose-wood table! Why, -Susan, I say, bring a cloth—who could ever believe that any man would -bring his hat into a parlour! you stupid girl, is that the way to rub a -table? use a little elbow grease, you intolerable slow coach—there, get -away and let me do it myself!” and with that the lady snatched the cloth -from the hands of her domestic, and began rubbing and puffing in a style -which sufficiently proved she was capable of _giving_, if not _receiving_ -a polish. - -After ten minutes’ exercise, the lady returned the rubber to the servant, -and with a face ruddy as the full moon at its rising, seated herself upon -the chair, and cast a look of satisfaction round the room at the peculiar -neatness of its appearance. - -“I perceive, madam,” said my friend, “you take particular delight in -seeing your apartments kept clean and neat, and the arrangement of this -room does honour to your taste;” he had touched the string that vibrated -to her heart. - -“I confess, sir, I feel a pride in seeing every thing in its place, and -cleanliness is an indispensable qualification in the servant I engage. -Will you believe me, sir, when I tell you that this girl you just saw, is -the forty-ninth I have had in the last twelvemonth, and I have no more -idea of keeping her than I have of taking back any of her predecessors.” - -“Ah madam, servants are sad plagues!” - -“Plagues, sir, they are devils. Why, it was but yesterday, when I -thought my house, from the attic to the kitchen, was so clean, that not a -speck of dirt could be visible to a fly, I was obliged to upset a whole -boiler full of the most delicious pea-soup into the middle of the -kitchen!” - -The phrenologist lifted up his legs, by instinct, as if he felt the -sprinkling of it upon them, and exclaimed, “How unfortunate!” - -“Unfortunate, sir, it was insupportable,” cried the lady; “but I made her -clean it up again!” - -My learned friend was then put to a nonplus; he could not for the life of -him, make out why Mrs. — should have taken the trouble to upset a boiler -of pea-soup into the middle of the clean kitchen; and this he politely -requested her to explain. - -“Why, I’ll tell you, sir, it is my pleasure to see every thing in its -place, and a grease spot to me is as bad as a plague spot to many. Now, -sir, although the kitchen looked better, I’ll be bound to say, than any -other kitchen in town, yet I was anxious to see if my servant had obeyed -my orders in taking a spot of grease out of the boards, which by accident -fell upon them the day before; so lifting up the oil-cloth—judge of my -horror and dismay to find it untouched! I inquired the reason. The -servants had the impudence to tell me, they had not time, at which, I -made no more ado, but threw the boiler of soup upon it, which took them a -good two hours to clean up again. I _will_ have every thing done, and in -order.” - -“Indeed, madam,” said my friend, “I perceive the admirable effects of -your system—this room is in admirable order.” - -“This room, sir! have the goodness to walk into my bed-room up stairs!” - -My phrenological friend, although he had passed the meridian of life, -could not help thinking this invitation rather extraordinary, more -particularly so, when the lady desired him to take off his shoes. - -“For,” said she, “I never allow even my husband to come up stairs in his -shoes.” - -Now it so happened that my friend had a particular reason for wishing to -avoid this ceremony, having walked a hole in one of his stockings the day -before, and the laundress was in possession of his _other_ pair. -Nothing, however, could alter her determination of exhibiting her -cleanliness. She protested he should see her bed-room, and insisted on -his taking off his shoes! - -With a shrug _à la française_, he submitted, but had not ascended half -way up the stair-case before the lady who followed, perceived the injury -his hose had sustained, and with a cry of horror exclaimed, “Susan! bring -up a needle and thread!” the words were scarcely uttered, when the girl -appeared, and without hesitation (without asking him to draw off his -hose) seizing him by the foot, compelled him to submit to her needle’s -operation; blushing and confounded at the awkward position his -unjustifiable curiosity had drawn him into; having completed her orders, -the girl descended to the kitchen, while he ascended to a square landing -place on the first floor. On the outside of the window was a veranda -filled with the choicest plants and flowers; the casement being open a -delightful breeze entered the house, bringing with it the odours of the -little garden; and he was about making a complimentary observation upon -the admirable arrangement of her bough-pots, when, helter-skelter, in, -through the casement, bolted a large tabby cat, and with a spring, -clearing my friend’s shoulders, alighted upon the elegantly laced cap of -the precise Mrs. —. They had not time to recover from their first alarm, -when down tumbled all the roses, lignum vitæs, rhododandrums, geraniums -and myrtles, being dislodged by a huge tom-cat rushing in, in pursuit of -the aforesaid timid feline intruder. Crash, crash! went the -bough-pots—squall, squall, went the lady. Damnation! exclaimed the -gentleman. The lady’s foot slipped, and she slid and bumped to the -bottom of the stairs; the phrenologist, endeavouring to save her, -blundered completely over the lady. The two cats scampered round and -athwart the elegantly arranged parlour, dislodging every ornament from -the chimney-piece; and at length, my friend, having recovered his shoes, -hastily snatched up his hat and cane, and made a precipitate escape from -the house of a lady, who was unfortunate in having the bump of _order_ -too strongly developed. - - * * * * * - -We arrived at the castle in Conway greatly fatigued, and equally -delighted with our day’s ramble. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - - -Route to Aber—Penmaen Mawr—The pet Goat—Aber—Legend of Llewllyn and the -Captive Knight—Road from Aber to Bangor—Penrhyn Castle—Bangor—Inns—The -Cathedral—The Castle—Free Schools—The Menai Bridge—Song, Farewell to -North Wales, air, Ar Hyd y Nos—Conclusion. - - “When the heathen trumpets clang - Round beleaguer’d Chester rang, - Veiled nun and friar grey - March’d from Bangor’s fair Abbaye: - High their holy Anthem sounds, - Cestria’s vale the hymn rebounds, - Floating down the silver Dee, - O Miserere Domine!” - - SIR WALTER SCOTT. - -ON the following morning, we started for Aber. The coast scenery is -extremely grand; and passing, the promontory of Penmaen Bach, a -semicircular range of mountains, stretching to the overpeering height of -Penmaen Mawr, from a delightful shelter to one of the most beautiful -coast retreats in North Wales. - -The present road winds round the waist of Penmaen Mawr, and nothing can -exceed the terrors that, above and underneath it, meet the eye of the -traveller. A few goats are generally seen wandering among the shingly -surface; and their motions, though so light, send the loose fragments -down, like the fall of a glacier. As I stood gazing on the awful depth -beneath, four large pieces of rock rolled into the centre of the road, -not ten yards from the place where I was standing, the smallest of which, -had it touched me, would have caused instant death, or disabled me in -such a manner as to have prevented my venturing upon a second tour. I -turned my eyes above, and thought upon the legend of Dolbadarn; and my -blood chilled to think, if, by any chance, a steed and rider should be -precipitated over its brow—what a spectacle they would exhibit at its -base! But, at the time of the legend, there was scarce footing for a -goat to pass along, and nothing to interrupt the parties from finally -plunging into the sea. - -“When last I visited this spot,” said my companion, “I observed a man -sitting by the road side, with his hands clasped, his elbows resting upon -his knees, and his face bespeaking feelings of deep sorrow. I have a -strong aversion to intruding on the secrets of others; but this lorn man, -seated in such a solitary situation, and forming so interesting a -foreground in the picture, made me desirous of entering into conversation -with him, in order to discover the source of his grief. - -“‘You seem to be in grief, my friend; can I do anything to relieve it?’ - -“‘God bless you, sir, you cannot.’ - -“‘May be otherwise, if you will tell me the cause.’ - -“‘I’ll tell you, sir; but it is out of your power to repair my loss.’ - -“He then feelingly related the following simple tale.” - - - -THE PET GOAT. - - -About three years ago, sir, I married one of the prettiest girls you ever -saw—an inhabitant of the neighbouring village. Her good heart was light, -and her hand always open to the stranger and the poor, as far as our -means could afford. We were married in the little church of Aber, and a -merry one was our wedding day. Her mother gave me a young kid upon the -occasion, which we took home with us and brought up in the cottage, as -you would a dog that you loved for the giver’s sake; and for its own sake -I loved the pretty animal. It was as playful and as gentle as a kitten; -and I taught it a number of tricks that greatly amused all our -neighbours. Truan hyny! At length, my poor Mary brought me a boy, but -she, poor girl, was too delicate to suckle the infant, and my gentle -goat, that had lately brought forth two kids, supplied us with milk for -the child, who did well, and God be praised, still does well;—my poor pet -was the saving of his life. Well, I went to my work, as usual, and Mary -made my home a heaven upon earth;—for she was an angel, and furnished me -with every comfort that mortal could desire. God bless her!—and she is -blessed, if goodness finds bliss in heaven, which no one doubts. - -Well, sir, a second year flew away quickly, and my partner brought me -forth twins—the sweetest babes eyes ever looked upon, and so like each -other, you couldn’t tell which was which; so we tied a ribbon upon Mary’s -arm, to distinguish her from Kate. Well, my poor pet goat again stood -wet nurse to the offspring; and my wife recovered her health and -beautiful looks; our evenings passed in talking of what we should do for -them, when they grew up. Ah, sir, it would have done your heart good to -have seen her blue eyes turned up to the sky, imploring blessings upon -their innocent heads, and every night kneel down to pray to her Creator, -for mercy on herself and me! although He knows better than I do, that she -was as free from soil as the waters of the rocky rill, and you might see -her heart as clearly as the pebbles at its bottom. Ah! that was a sight -for good men to look upon, and be thankful that they had seen it. You’ll -excuse me, sir; but I can’t help shedding tears, when I think upon the -fate of poor Mary!—gwae! gwae! - -The pet goat, sir, was wandering upon the shelving rocks which now hang -over us, and there were many others above. Do you see that, sir, with -one of its horns nearly straight, just upon the edge of that projecting -mass? Just beneath that she was browsing, when, all of a sudden, a large -piece fell from the brow of the mountain, and, lighting upon the body of -my favourite, she was dashed into the centre of the road, just where we -are now standing; and, when I ran to her the look of her bright grey eyes -went to my heart—poor thing! I never saw anything more affectionate in a -christian; for her looks spoke more than any words I ever heard in the -way of gratitude; and she licked my hand, poor dumb beast! and sighed, -and died without a groan, poor thing! poor thing! (and he wept in the -bitterness of his feeling.) - -You may wonder, sir, that I should cry so, when I tell you about the -death of a goat; but it is the consequences attendant upon it that wring -the tears from my eyes. When poor pet died, my wife was obliged to nurse -her young twins, for no woman could be found in the neighbourhood to -assist her, and I couldn’t afford to buy another goat, and I couldn’t -bear to ask for milk which I wasn’t able to pay for, for all somehow went -wrong with me after the loss of our favourite. Mary grew weaker and -weaker every day, and I couldn’t go to my work, and leave her, without -any one to watch over her. My spirit was broken, and I cared for nothing -in the world, but attending the sick bed of Mary and the children. To be -sure, I managed to get enough for the support of life; but the twins -couldn’t eat the food I brought them. The mother had not milk enough to -support them; and I saw her, day by day, sinking under the affliction I -had no power to soften. At length, my two pretty babes died, one after -the other, and Mary’s heart broke to see the stroke of Providence. She -died too, sir, and with her all that made life dear to me, except my poor -little boy. I shall never, never recover! and I know that the sod will -shortly be laid upon my head, by the side of the grave where rest the -bones of my dear Mary. - - * * * * * - -The numerous accidents that have happened on this mountain render it an -object of awful interest. Mr. Pennant, in his tour, relates the -following circumstances: - - “The Rev. Mr. Jones, who in 1762 was the Rector of Llanelian in the - Isle of Anglesea, fell, with his horse and a midwife behind him, down - the steepest part. The _sage-femme_ perished, as did the nag. The - divine, however, with great philosophy, unsaddled the steed, and - marched off with the trappings, exulting at his preservation.” - -He relates another accident, that occurred here, in the following words: - - “I have often heard of another accident, attended with such romantic - circumstances, that I would not venture to mention it, had I not the - strongest traditional authority to this day, in the mouth of every - one in the parish of Llanfair Fechan, in which this promontory - stands. Sion Humphreys, of this parish, paid his addresses to Ann - Thomas, of Creuddyn, on the other side of the Conway river. They had - made an appointment to meet at a fair in the town of Conway. He in - his way fell over Penmaen Mawr. She was overset in the ferry boat, - and was the only person saved out of fourscore! They were married, - and lived very long together in the parish of Llanfair. She was - buried April 11th, 1744, aged 116. He survived her five years, and - was buried Dec. 1749, close by her in the parish church yard, where - their graves are familiarly shown to this day.” - -On the summit of a hill, in the neighbourhood of Penmaen Mawr, are the -ruins of an ancient British camp, of vast magnitude, which was deemed -impregnable. It is a site of considerable interest, as well for its -antiquity, as for the magnificent prospect which it commands of the -ocean, the Isle of Anglesea, the straits, the Ormes head, the island of -Priestholm, the beautiful town of Beaumauris, and the chain of Snowdonia, -of which it is the terminating link. - -Having passed round the frightful promontory of Penmaen Mawr, by the -admirable road which, with incredible labour, has been cut by government, -at the expense of £10,000, and forms a belt to the mountain, the country -becomes more fertile; the plantations are larger, and more numerous, and -the hills are clothed with verdure, which never appears upon the wild -forehead of that frowning mass; and hedges rise on either side of the -road, through which the eye is pleased with the sight of waving fields of -grain, until we reach the picturesque village of - - - -ABER. - - -The name of the inn here is the Bulkley Arms, and a more comfortable -hostel, for one who travels in search of the beauties of nature, cannot -be desired; although, to the fastidious, it may, perhaps, be thought too -small, and to the luxurious it may not offer the viands which he covets. -For myself, give me the room overlooking the beautiful little garden -which sends its thousand perfumes into the apartment, when the sun goes -down and the moon lights up the Menai with her silver beams! Let me sit, -silent and alone, there—there, where “heavenly pensive contemplation -dwells.” At the entrance to the glen, upon its eastern side, is a very -high artificial mound, flat at the top, which is said to be the site of a -castle belonging to Llewellyn the great. On it stands the house of Mr. -Crawley, a sketch of which, with the glen, is annexed. It was taken from -under the arch of the bridge, and gives a better idea of the scene than -words have power to convey. - -The mountain, on the eastern side of the vale is clothed with oak and ash -trees; but, upon the west, there is no foliage. The river rushes with -great impetuosity after a flood, from its mountain fall, into the Menai -straits, winding through the glen, and encircling several rocky islets in -its course. The fall is about a mile and a half up the stream, and, at -the extremity of the vale, a convex mountain rises, down which it leaps, -from a height of about sixty feet; and there is said to be a large stone -here, on which the army of Llewellyn sharpened their spears and arrows; -and the marks are still shown to the tourist. - -But the prospect from the bridge, which crosses the stream, on the road -to Conway, is the most interesting; from this spot you command a view of -the river, at its greatest magnitude, sparkling along its rock-impeded -course, and behold it dancing and foaming, as if with joy, into the -salts, like a child bounding to its mother. - - [Picture: Aber] - -The following short poem is founded upon a tradition connected with this -place. It was twilight when the muse flew in at the window, and at that -endearing time I yielded to her influence. The story is well known to -every villager of this delightful neighbourhood. - - - -LLEWELYN AND THE CAPTIVE KNIGHT. - - - Oh! who is he that rides along - So proudly on his charger strong, - Amid yon gay and gallant throng - Through Aber’s lonely vale? - - With plumed casque upon his head, - And mace at saddle bow so red, - And battle brand, the foeman’s dread, - And glittering shirt of mail? - - ’Tis ancient Cambria’s pride and boast, - Her hope, her strength, her chief, her host, - Whose fame she spreads from coast to coast. - And trumpets to the sky! - - And Saxon blood is on his mace, - And gouts his shining blade deface, - Hail, bravest of the bravest race! - And pride of chivalry! - - And who is she, so peerless fair, - With full dark eye, of lustre rare, - And snowy neck, and raven hair, - On palfrey by his side? - - With native gems upon her vest, - Snowdonia’s own—Snowdonia’s best, - Rising and sinking on her breast, - And glance of royal pride? - - The noblest lady of the land, - (For she with him joined hand to hand - In wedlock’s stout and holy band), - Llewelyn’s noble dame. - - For her do bards their praises sing, - And minstrels strike the sounding string, - Till mountains high and valleys ring - With fair Johanna’s name! - - And who is he with drooping plume, - And golden locks, and brow of gloom, - Whose cheek hath lost its manly bloom, - And sorrow speaking eye? - - William de Breos is he hight, - A courtier fair and gallant knight, - Ta’en by Llewelyn in the fight - Before Montgomery. - - Oh! ’tis a glorious sight to see - The marshalled ranks of liberty, - With banners waving high and free, - Wind down the hollow vale; - - Their broad swords flashing in the sun, - And spears too bright to look upon, - Returning from the field they’ve won, - And from the foeman pale. - - The prince within his castle wall, - There rose a shout from one and all, - That shook the mountain’s rocky hall, - And made the welkin ring. - - And gaily passed the wassail bowl, - While bards poured out the song of soul, - And martial music crowned the whole, - Time moved on pleasure’s wing. - - But pleasure’s wing may sometimes lose - Its plumage bright, of varied hues, - And time grow dark with sorrow’s dews, - And cloak itself in care. - - And eyes that wanton love inspire, - And blaze with light of fierce desire - Be quenched in floods of anguish dire, - And wither in despair! - - Months rolled away, and while in war, - Llewelyn shone the leading star, - The knight and dame, in pleasure’s car, - Rolled rapidly along. - - Guilt smiled upon their couch of down, - But o’er them was an angel’s frown, - Till their adult’ry, bolder grown, - Became a ribald song. - - Llewelyn to his home returned, - Unconscious of his wrong, and burn’d - To meet the welcome he had earned - In glory’s sanguine field. - - Cold was the heart he thought his own, - And colder had his welcome grown, - And on his forehead sat a frown, - Which half his fears revealed. - - Unransomed to his Saxon home, - With promises of gifts to come, - Southward he bade De Breos roam, - And gave him friendly grasp. - - The lady wept, Llewelyn smiled, - “Yield not, sweet wife, to sorrow wild, - For friendship is a feeling mild; - Her hand De Breos clasp.” - - The Knight departed on his steed, - With twenty horsemen for his need, - To guard him over mount and mead, - To fair Montgomory. - - But, when he saw the Knight depart, - Full jealous grew Llewelyn’s heart, - “Oh can dissimulation’s dart - Live in Johanna’s eye?” - - Dark rumours reached his tortured ear, - He gazed upon his lady near, - And vengeance whispered “Chieftain, here - Must the foul spoiler die.” - - A month had scarcely rolled away, - When to the Knight, so proud and gay, - Predestined for revenge’s prey - He sent a Herald light. - - With soothing speech, and present rare, - And invitation to repair - With speed of horse, and heedful care, - To Aber’s Castle bright. - - The Herald well De Breos knew, - On wings of guilty love he flew, - His foul dishonour to renew - With great Llewelyn’s dame. - - But fatal was the meeting now, - Llewelyn knit his dreadful brow, - His angry blood began to glow, - And in his eye was flame. - - “Down with the slave to dungeon dark! - Disgrace to knighthood, hear and mark! - Upon the gibbet, cold and stark, - To-morrow shalt thou hang. - - “No more to whisper, fawn and lie— - No more to gaze with wanton eye, - No more to mix with chivalry, - Or hear its martial clang.” - - Johanna knows not of the fate - That on her paramour doth wait; - But e’er the sun through heaven’s gate - Rolls forth to gild the sea; - - Three taps upon her chamber door, - Hath roused her from her dreams of yore, - And stern upon her rush-strewn floor - Llewelyn doth she see. - - He seized her by the raven hair - “What wouldst thou give, my lady fair. - To see that Knight, so debonair, - De Breos, once again?” - - “Strong Aber’s castle which we dwell in, - Wales, fair England, and Llewelyn, - All I’d give to see my Gwilym, - But all I wish in vain.” - - He dragged her from her secret bower, - While thunder on his brow did lower, - And pointed to the falcon tower, - “Behold, false dame,” he cried, - - “Behold once more the traitor fell, - On gallows hung, while fiends in hell - Are shouting forth his passing knell.” - The lady looked—and died. - -The road from Aber to Bangor is replete with interesting scenery. The -mountains assume a dark and gloomy grandeur, half clad in rolling -vapours, which at intervals reveal their black and purple forms, their -barren summits and deep hollows, to the eye. Towering above them all, -Benclog rises conspicuous, into whose threatening gorge the road to Capel -Curig winds, like a snake venturing into some monster’s jaws which -appears ready to devour it. Upon the right, the shores of Anglesea, with -its luxuriant woods, are seen stretching down to the Menai, and agreeably -diversify the scene. Before us rose the lofty towers of Penrhyn Castle, -with Port Penrhyn and its shipping in the distance. Altogether, the -prospect is glorious, and the finest effects I ever saw produced by -mountain scenery are continually varying here; for, however bright the -day may be upon the straights, and along their shores, the Canaervonshire -mountains are generally half concealed by mists, upon which the sunbeams -fall, causing them to assume countless hues of the most brilliant nature, -which contrast finely with the ponderous forms round which they play in -never ceasing variety. - -Near the spot where the London road branches off from the Chester, is the -grand entrance to Penrhyn Castle, the property of G. H. D. Pennant Esq. -The lodge is a beautiful specimen of substantial architecture; it is -protected by a corresponding gateway, massive and imposing. The park -wall extends circularly seven miles, and is thirteen feet high. To -describe the magnificence of the interior of the castle I feel would -prove a vain effort, and I earnestly recommend all tourists who take this -route not to quit the neighbourhood without seeing it, or they will be -reproached for slighting one of the grandest treats old Cambria can -afford them. - - - -BANGOR. - - -This town derives its name from Ban Cor, which means the high choir. - -We stopped at the Penrhyn Arms, a most commodious inn, which is capable, -it is said, of making up one hundred beds nightly. It occupies a -commanding situation, and from the back premises embraces a noble -prospect—the straights, the shore of Anglesea, the bay of Beaumauris, -Penrhyn Castle, Puffin Island, Paenman Mawr, and the Great Orme’s Head, -with the ocean in the distance. - -There are other excellent inns in the town, namely the Castle, the -Liverpool arms, and the Albion: the latter, kept by Hughs, is extremely -comfortable, and the landlord civil and obliging, as I most willingly -testify from experience. There is no place in Wales so well calculated -for a tourist to make his head quarters as Bangor. The various spots he -may visit by appropriating a day to each, would supply him with -gratification for a month at least. - - - -THE CATHEDRAL - - -was founded by Maelgwn Gwynedd, King of Wales, of whom I have had -occasion to speak before, as the patron of Taliesin, the celebrated Welsh -bard. - -The original edifice, which was erected in 525, was destroyed in 1071, -and rebuilt shortly after, but was again reduced to ruins by Owen -Glyndwr, and for ninety years was neglected, until Bishop Dean restored -the choir, and the body of the tower was rebuilt by Bishop Skeffington, -in 1532, which still remains in a perfect state of preservation. The -free school was founded in 1557, by Dr. Jeffry Glynn, upon the site of an -ancient parish church, built by King Edgar, within about 400 yards of the -present cathedral, and is considered an excellent preparatory seminary -for Oxford and Cambridge. - -The remains of an ancient castle, built by Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester, -in the reign of Henry II, are still visible upon a rock opposite to the -free school, and some pieces of scoria, found on the spot, lead us to -suppose arrows were manufactured there. At the back of the friar’s -school is another hill, and on the top of it are the remains of a British -encampment. - -The town, within the last twenty years, has been extended to nearly four -times its original magnitude, and possesses an appearance of cleanliness -particularly gratifying. The London mail passes to and fro every day, as -does the Chester and Liverpool; and two daily coaches also start for -London, one to Chester and Liverpool, two to Caernarvon, and a mail to -Pwllheli. The great lion of Bangor is - - - -THE MENAI BRIDGE. - - -The principal opening between the supporting pyramids is 560 feet in -breadth, through which the vessels pass with all their canvass set, -without the least danger of their masts touching the overhanging bridge. -There are four stone arches upon the Anglesea side, and three upon the -Carnaervon, which complete the road way, and have each a span of fifty -feet. The length of the bridge is 800 feet, and its height is 100 feet -above the surface of the Menai at high water. The weight of the bridge -and its suspending chains, between the pyramids, is six hundred and -thirty-nine tons, nineteen hundred and nine pounds; and that of the -ironwork from one extremity of the chains to the other is estimated at -2130 tons, 1800 consisting of wrought, and three hundred and thirty of -cast iron. - -The first stone of this astonishing work was laid by W. A. Provis Esq., -on the 10th August, 1820; and on the 20th April, 1825, the first main -chain was thrown across the strait. This important step being completed, -three of the workmen, in the height of their enthusiasm, ventured to walk -along the chain from pyramid to pyramid; and a cobbler no less daring and -enthusiastic, seated himself in the centre of the curve, and, while -suspended at the fearful height, with sky above and the deep water of the -strait gliding beneath him, drove the last sparable into one of those -convenient comforts called clogs. - -The view from the centre of the bridge beggars description. Waving -woods, barren precipices, distant mountains, Bangor and Beaumauris, -Penrhyn Castle, Paenman Mawr, the Great Orme’s Head, the ocean, and the -strait, are objects that dazzle and astonish from the exquisite beauty of -their natural arrangement. - -My task is done. I have taken leave of my phrenological friend; the -steam boat is dropping slowly to Garth point to take in passengers for -Liverpool; and I must now quit this lovely land—never perhaps to see it -more. But let me hope the sketches I have given of its various charms -will induce others to take the path which I have pursued with so much -pleasure. It leads through the most interesting portion of the country. -For the artist, there is an inexhaustible store of beauty. The geologist -and mineralogist will find the lore they thirst for, in almost every hill -and valley, through which they pass. The smoke-dried citizen may have -the London _blacks_ blown from his garments by the healthful mountain -breeze, and drink huge draughts of the pure air until he feels -intoxicated with pleasure, while he is enabled to supply himself cheaply -with a valuable stock of delightful recollections that will enable him, -at any time, to raise a visionary paradise around him—to banish painful -thoughts; for, in fine, pain must give place to pleasure, gloom to -sunshine, blue devils to hilarity, and sickness to invigorating health, -in the enchanting principality of NORTH WALES. - - - - -APPENDIX. - - -SNOWDON - - -FIRST received its name from the Saxons, and signifies a mountain covered -with snow. It was held sacred by the Ancient Britons, who believed that -those who slept upon it became inspired. The perpendicular height of the -mountain is 1190 yards, and, as the state of the atmosphere hindered me -from attempting the ascent, I have selected the accounts of the most -celebrated tourists for the benefit of those who may be more fortunate -than I was. - - - -MR. PENNANT’S ASCENT. - - -“Ascend above _Cwm Brwynog_ a very deep bottom. In the course of our -ascent, saw on the left above the Cwm, _Moel y Cynghorion_, or the Hill -of Council; pass through _Bwlch Maes-y-cwm_, and skirt the side of -Snowdon, till we reach _Bwlch Cwm Brwynog_, where the ascent becomes very -difficult on account of its vast steepness; people here usually quit -their horses. We began a toilsome march, clambering among the rocks. On -the left were the precipices over _Brwynog_ with _Llyn Du yr Arddwy_ at -their foot; on our right, were those over the small lakes _Llyn Glâs_, -_Llyn y Naddroed_, and _Llyn Côch_. The last is the highest on this side -the mountain; and on whose margins, we were told that in fairy days, -those diminutive gentry kept their revels. - -“This space between precipice and precipice formed a short and no very -agreeable isthmus, till we reached a verdant expanse which gave us some -respite before we laboured up another series of broken crags; after these -is a second smooth tract, which reaches almost to the summit, and by way -of pre-eminence is styled _Y Wyddfa_, or The Conspicuous. It rises -almost to a point, or at least there is but room for a circular wall of -loose stones, within which travellers usually take their repast. - -“The view from this exalted situation is unbounded. In a former tour I -saw from it the hills of Yorkshire, part of the north of England, -Scotland, and Ireland; a plain view of the Isle of Man, and that of -Anglesey lay extended like a map beneath me with every rill visible. I -took much pains to see this prospect to advantage, sat up at a farm on -the west till about twelve, and walked up the whole way. The night was -remarkably fine and starry: towards morn, the stars faded away, and left -a short interval of darkness, which soon dispersed by the dawning of the -day. The body of the sun appeared most distinct with the rotundity of -the moon, before it rose high enough to render its beams too brilliant -for our sight. The sea which bounded the western part was gilt by its -rays, first in slender streaks, at length glowing with redness. The -prospect was disclosed like the gradual drawing up of a curtain in a -theatre. We saw more and more till the heat became so powerful as to -attract the mists from the various lakes, which in a slight degree -obscured the prospect. The shadow of the mountain was flung many miles, -and shewed its bicapitated form; the _Wyddfa_ making one, _Crib y -Dysdyll_ the other head. I counted this time between twenty and thirty -lakes either in this county, or Merionethshire. The day proved so -excessively hot, that my journey cost me the skin of the lower part of my -face before I reached the resting place.” - -At another visit, the same celebrated traveller remarks—“On this day, the -sky was obscured very soon after I got up; a vast mist enveloped the -whole circuit of the mountain; the prospect down was horrible. It gave -an idea of numbers of abysses concealed by a thick smoke, furiously -circulating round us. Very often a gust of wind formed an opening in the -clouds, which gave a fine and distinct view of lake and valley. -Sometimes, they opened only in one place, at others in many at once, -exhibiting a most strange and perplexing view of water, fields, rocks or -chasms, in fifty different places. They then closed at once, and left us -involved in darkness; in a short time, they would separate again, and fly -in wild eddies round the middle of the mountains, and expose in parts -both tops and bases clear to our view. We descended from this various -scene with great reluctance, but before we reached our horses a thunder -storm overtook us. Its rolling among the mountains was inexpressibly -awful, the rain uncommonly heavy. We remounted our horses, and gained -the bottom with great hazard. The little rills which on our ascent -trickled along the gullies on the sides of the mountain, were now swelled -into torrents, and we and our steeds passed with the utmost risk of being -swept away by these sudden waters. At length, we arrived safe, yet -sufficiently wet and weary, to our former quarters. - -“It is very seldom that the traveller gets a propitious day to ascend -Snowdon; for often when it appears clear, it becomes suddenly and -unexpectedly enveloped in mist by its attraction of clouds, which just -before seemed remote and at great heights. At times, I have observed -them lower to half their heights, and notwithstanding they have been -dispersed to the right and to the left, yet they have met from both sides -and united to involve the summit in one great obscurity. The quantity of -water which flows from the lakes of Snowdonia is very considerable; so -much, that I doubt not but collectively they would exceed the waters of -the Thames before it meets the conflux of the ocean.” - - - -MR. BINGLEY’S ASCENT. - - -This industrious and persevering traveller observes: “I had made a -determination soon after I came into Wales, that I would ascend Snowdon -by all the tracks that are usually pointed out to travellers.” This -gentleman had already accomplished the task in three instances, his -routes being first from Dôlbadarn Castle, secondly from Llanberis, and -thirdly from Llyn Cwellyn. The fourth, the description of which we are -about to borrow, as more descriptive than any of the others, is the route -from Bedd-gelert. He says: “The distance from Bedd-gelert to the summit, -being reckoned not less than six miles, and a lady being one of our -number, it was thought most eligible for her to ride as far as she could -without danger, and for the rest to walk the whole of the way. In this -manner therefore, we set out, commencing our _mountain_ journey by -turning to the right, from the Caernarvon road, at the distance of about -two miles and a half from the village. We left the horse at a cottage, -about half way up, from whence taking a bottle of milk to mix with some -rum that we had brought along with us, we continued our route over a -series of pointed and craggy rocks. - -“Stopping at different times to rest, we enjoyed to the utmost the -prospects that by degrees were opening round us. Caernarvon and the Isle -of Anglesey, aided by the brightness of the morning, were seen to great -advantage; and Cwellyn below us, shaded by the vast Mynydd Mawr, with -Castell Cidwu at its foot, appeared extremely beautiful. - -“In ascending the mountains, which from below seemed of immense height, -they began now to appear beneath us; the lakes and valleys were more -exposed, and all the little rills and mountain streams by degrees became -visible to us, like silver lines intersecting the hollows around. -Towards the upper part of the mountain, we passed over a tremendous ridge -of rock, called _Clawdd Côch_, the Red Ridge. This narrow pass, not more -than ten or twelve feet across, and two or three hundred yards in length -was so steep that the eye reached on each side, down the whole extent of -the mountain. And I am persuaded that in some parts of it if a person -held a large stone in each hand, and let them both fell at once, each -might roll above a quarter of a mile, and thus when they stopped they -might be more than half a mile asunder. - -“The lady who accompanied us, to my great surprise, passed the ridge -without the least apparent signs of fear or trepidation. There is no -danger whatever in passing Clawdd Côch in the day-time, but I must -confess that I should by no means like to venture along this tract in the -night, as many do who have never seen it. If the moon shone very bright, -we might, it is true, escape unhurt, but a dark cloud coming suddenly -over would certainly expose us to much danger. Many instances have -occurred of persons who having passed over it in the night were so -terrified at seeing it by daylight the next morning, that they have not -dared to return the same way, but have gone a very circuitous round by -Bettws. I was informed that one gentleman had been so much alarmed, that -he crawled over it back again on his hands and knees. In the hollow on -the left of the ascent are four small pools, called _Llyn Côch_, the red -pool; _Llyn Glâs_, the blue pool; _Llyn y Nadroedd_, the adder’s pool; -and _Llyn Ffynnon y Gwâs_, the servant’s pool. - -“Soon after we had passed Clawdd Côch, we became immersed in light -clouds, till we arrived at the summit of the mountain, when a single -gleam of sunshine, which lasted but for a moment, presented us with the -majestic scenery on the west of our station. It served only, however, to -tantalize our hopes; for a smart gust of wind again obscured us in -clouds. We now sheltered ourselves from the cold, under some of the -projecting rocks near the top, and ate our dinners, watching with anxiety -the dark shades in the clouds, in hopes that a separation might take -place, and that we should be once more delighted with a sight of the -grand objects around us. We did not watch in vain, for the clouds by -degrees cleared away, and left us at full liberty to admire the numerous -beauties in this expansive scene. The steep rock of _Clogwn y Garnedd_, -whose dreadful precipices are some of them above two hundred yards in -perpendicular height, and the whole rock, a series of precipices, was an -object which first struck one of my companions with terror, and he -exclaimed almost involuntarily, - - How fearful - And dizzy ’tis to cast one’s eye so low! - The crows and choughs that wing the mid-way air - Scarce shew so gross as beetles. - -“We now stood on a point which commanded the whole dome of the sky. The -prospects below, each of which we had before considered separately as a -grand scene, were now only miniature parts of the immense landscape. We -had around us such a variety of mountains, valleys, lakes, and streams, -each receding behind the ether, and bounded only by the far distant -horizon, that the eye almost strained itself with looking upon them. -These majestic prospects were soon shut from our sight by the gathering -clouds, which now began to close in much heavier than they had done -before; and it was in vain that we waited near an hour for another -opening. - -“We were, therefore, at length obliged to descend, in despair of being -any more gratified with these sublime prospects. We again passed Clawd -Côch, and soon afterwards, turning to the left, descended into the -mountain vale, called _Cwm Llan_. We followed the course of a stream, -which flows from thence into Llyn y Dinas, in Nant Gwynant. This little -rivulet entertained us much in its descent, being in many places thrown -over low rocks, forming small but sometimes elegant cascades. After a -walk of two hours, we arrived in Nant Hwynan, the vale that I had -traversed with so much pleasure a day or two before; and passing by Llyn -y Dinas, and Dinas Emrys, soon afterwards reached Bedd-gelert, not a -little fatigued with our mountain ramble. - -“I observed near a cottage in Cwm Llan, that several children were -employed in gathering the berries of the mountain ash. On inquiring of -the guide to what purpose this was done, he informed me that the Welsh -people brew from them a liquor which they call _Dïod Grïafol_. This, he -said, was done by merely crushing the berries, and putting water to them, -which, after remaining a fortnight, is drawn off for use. The flavour, -as I understood him, was somewhat like that of perry.” - - - -ASCENT FROM DOLBADARN. - - -This account is taken from a small useful publication, entitled “Guide to -Bangor, Beaumaris, and Snowdonia,” by Mr. John Smith, of Liverpool. The -narrative is written by a friend of Mr. Smith, who, the latter informs -us, was a companion of the late lamented Belzoni, and the period when the -ascent was performed was the summer of 1825. - -“It was about half-past twelve when we left our inn at Dôlbadarn, and I -think a more lovely morning we could not be favoured with: nature did -indeed seem at rest; not a cloud appeared to move, and a bright and -nearly full moon, which had passed the meridian, seemed as if waiting to -light us on our way. Our party consisted of three of the ladies, (the -fourth not having strength for the task) Mr. M., myself, two gentlemen -who joined us at Dôlbadarn, our guide, and his faithful dog. The ladies -were furnished with a stout pony each, but the gentlemen preferred -climbing on foot the steep ascent, and I believe, before they returned, -repented heartily having done so. The guide was equipped with a leathern -belt, to which was buckled a tin vessel containing water, and a staff -which seemed well worn with the hard service in which it was employed. - -“We proceeded across a small rivulet a short distance from the inn, and -soon entered on a kind of mountain horse-path, composed of loose slate -and stones, of which our pedestrians soon began to be weary. After -ascending this about a mile, we arrived at a rough fence of turf and -stones, where the road wound round the side of a mountain, and entered a -kind of defile, through which we had to proceed. Here our guide desired -us to look back at the view beneath us, and when we did so, our feelings -and expressions of delight and astonishment were general. Below us, the -lake of Llanberis lay stretched like an immense mirror in the shade, with -one bright silvery ray resting on its glassy surface, in which part of -the steep mountains that surrounded it appeared reflected. To attempt to -describe the beautiful and varying tints on those mountains would be as -useless a task, as the most vivid colours would be foolishly employed in -trying to represent them. In the distance and on our right, Dôlbadarn -tower was just visible at the head of the lower lake, and on our left the -inn, surrounded with the only trees in the neighbourhood, formed a -striking object: we reflected with pleasure, as we looked towards it, -that the lady whose health would not allow her to accompany us, was there -enjoying a refreshing sleep, and would, when awake, be anxiously waiting -for our return, and to hear the various accounts we should give of our -expedition. - -“We again turned our faces towards Snowdon, on the same road I have -before mentioned, and the mild, yet awful and magnificent scene before us -afforded abundant themes for conversation and remark. In three or four -places light fleecy clouds, edged with silver by the moonbeam, and which -at first appeared resting on the sides of the mountains, now seemed to be -slowly rolling down their steep sides, and generally mixing with the deep -gloom of the valleys below us. Though surrounded by nature’s grandest -works, I fancy some of the party were tired even here, as many inquiries -had been made relative to the distance we had still to proceed. However, -the guide, suddenly stopping, informed us we were now at the ‘half-way -house;’ but no house was to be seen, and on looking round for it, we -could perceive nothing but a small stream which trickled down the steep, -and which replenished our guide’s water vessel, which had been emptied -some time before by the continual demands upon it. {384} - -“We had proceeded now about three miles, and left our slate road by -passing through a small wicket which opened on the heath, near which the -sagacity of one of the ponys surprised us. The poor animal was blind, -and on arriving within three feet of the wicket, which was open, it drew -up, and would not proceed till led through by the bridle. One would -fancy it had almost numbered its paces. It is surprising with what -safety and agility these animals walk over the steep paths and stones -they have to pass; and the guide assured us that he had been in the habit -of going with travellers nearly twenty years, and never knew a single -accident occasioned by them. - -“The soft heath we were now passing was a relief to our feet, though it -was so steep that we were sometimes obliged to wait to regain breath. At -this time, we were on the top of a hill, which we fancied was the last we -had to mount before the peak of Snowdon, and willingly thought the summit -of the bold front before us was to be the end of our journey. Thence the -way was over a kind of ridge, perhaps forty yards wide, one side of which -was perpendicular for several hundred feet, and the other so steep that -no one could stop or steady himself upon it. Daylight now began to -appear, to show us more distinctly the steeps we were amongst; and, -though we well knew the breadth of the ridge was such that there could be -no danger, yet I am sure we all felt that unpleasant sensation which few -can approach the edge of a precipice without experiencing in some degree. -Tremendous gusts of wind, too, which passed the long heath with a -singular whizzing noise, giving warning of their approach, and almost -blowing us off our feet as they assailed us, did not make any of us feel -easier. - -“However, we went boldly on without accident, except a hat and bonnet -blowing off, which were fortunately recovered, and nearly reached the top -of what we had all taken to be our journey’s end, when the guide -exclaimed, pointing to a high peak before us, “There is Snowdon top;” and -we had the mortification to find that we had still a climbing of -three-quarters of a mile before us. This powerfully reminded us of a -couplet by Pope: - - ‘The increasing prospect tires our wandering eyes, - Hills peep o’er hills, and alps on alps arise.’ - -A few minutes more brought us to a small inclosure of stones, where the -horses were put up, as they could proceed no further, and now the ladies -were obliged to foot it. Here one of the gentlemen gave in, declaring he -would proceed no further, and laid down on the moss, saying he would wait -our return. Perhaps a little rest was of service to him, for he -afterwards joined us on the top of Snowdon. The road here is along the -edge of the steep side of the mountain, which is almost perpendicular, -and is broken with large fragments of slate, stone, and spar, of various -kinds, to the very summit, which to our great joy, we at last attained -about half-past four o’clock. Had we waited for months we could not have -had a more beautiful time; as the guide expressed himself, ‘Snowdon has -its days, and this is one of them.’ We sat down; in a few minutes the -moon, which had so favoured us, declined behind one of the western -mountains, and almost at the same instant the red tints on the eastern -horizon foretold the approach of the king of day, the effect of whose -rising on such a scene as that below and around us, was the most -magnificent sight we ever beheld.” - -The descent is not related by the writer of the above description. I -understand, however, it was merrily performed by all the party, whose -fatigue in the expedition well qualified them to feel the luxury of a few -hours’ repose at Dôlbadarn. - - - -PROSPECT FROM THE SUMMIT. - - -In the foregoing descriptions by three of our most respectable tourists, -sufficient is contained to afford the traveller a tolerably good idea of -the nature of the ascent to the top of Snowdon; and we shall only add the -subjoined animated description of a view from its summit, by the author -of the “Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature.” - -“After climbing over masses of crags and rocks, we ascended the peak of -Snowdon. Arrived at its summit, a scene presented itself, magnificent -beyond the powers of language! Indeed, language is indigent and impotent -when it would presume to sketch scenes on which the Great Eternal has -placed his matchless finger with delight. Faint are thy broad and deep -delineations, immortal Salvator Rosa! Powerless and feeble are your -inspirations, genius of Thompson, Virgil, and Lucretius! - -“From this point are seen five-and-twenty lakes.—Seated on one of the -crags, it was long before the eye, unaccustomed to measure such -elevations, could accommodate itself to scenes so admirable:—the whole -appearing as if there had been a war of the elements; and as if we were -the only inhabitants of the globe permitted to contemplate the ruins of -the world. Rocks and mountains, which when observed from below, bear all -the evidence of sublimity, when viewed from the summit of Snowdon, are -blended with others as dark, as rugged, and as elevated as themselves; -the whole resembling the swellings of an agitated ocean. - -“The extent of this prospect appears almost unlimited. The four kingdoms -are seen at once: Wales, England, Scotland, and Ireland! forming the -finest panorama the empire can boast. The circle begins with the -mountains of Cumberland and Westmorland; those of Ingleborough and -Penygent, in the county of York, and the hills of Lancashire follow; then -are observed the counties of Chester, Flint, Denbigh, and a portion of -Montgomeryshire. Nearly the whole of Merioneth succeeds; and drawing a -line with the eye along the diameter of the circle, we take in the -regions stretching from the triple crown of Cader Idris to the sterile -crags of Carnedds-David and Llewellyn. Snowdon, rising in the centre, -appears as if he could touch the south with his right hand, and the north -with his left. ‘Surely,’ thought Colonna, ‘Cæsar sat upon these crags -when he formed the daring conception of governing the world!’ - -“From Cader Idris the eye, pursuing the orbit of the bold geographical -line, glances over the bay of Cardigan, and reposes for a while on the -summit of the Rivals.—After observing the indented shores of -Caernarvonshire, it travels over a long line of ocean, till in the -extremity of the horizon the blue mountains of Wicklow terminate the -perspective. Those mountains gradually sink along the coast till they -are lost to the eye; which ranging along the expanse, at length, as weary -of the journey, reposes on the Island of Man, and the distant mountains -of Scotland. The intermediate space is occupied by the sides and summits -of mountains, hollow crags, masses of rocks, the towers of Caernarvon, -the fields of Anglesea, with woods, lakes, and glens, scattered in -magnificent confusion. - -“A scene like this commands our feelings to echo, as it were, in unison -to its grandeur and sublimity. The thrill of astonishment, and the -transport of imagination seem to contend for the mastery, and nerves are -touched that never thrilled before. We seem as if our former existence -were annihilated, and as a new epoch were commenced. Another world opens -upon us; and an unlimited orbit appears to display itself as a theatre -for our ambition.” - - * * * * * - - - -Page 266, line 5. - - -Among other ceremonies performed in the preparations for knighthood, the -candidate went into a bath, which was symbolical of the purity of the -soul. He was then placed in a bed, which signified the rest he was -hereafter to enjoy in Paradise; and when he had slept, the Neophyte was -clothed in a shirt, which white dress betokened the purity of his new -character.—_See Miles’s History of Chivalry_. - - * * * * * - - - -Page 367. - - - “The lady looked—and died.” - -According to poetical justice she certainly should have died. But the -lady recovered, and her good natured lord not only forgave her this slip, -but many others of a similar nature, and for her _earthly virtues_ had -her proclaimed a _heavenly saint_, after she had paid the debt of nature. - - - - -INDEX. - - -Aber, the ‘Bulkely Arms,’ at, 360; scenery near, 360, 367. -Aber Glas Llynn, bridge at, 237. -Abernodwydd, brook of, 114. -Actor, adventures related by an, 34. -Alphabet, Welsh, power of some letters of the, 5. -Appendix, 385. -Ardudwy, pass of, 187. -Arran Fowddwy mountain, 150. -Arrenig Vawr, hill of, 156, 187. - - * * * * * - -Bala, scenery near, 145; inn at, 151, 157; Llyn Tegid, 155, 159; the town -of, 159; Tommen-y-Bala, _ib._ -Bardsey Island, bards of, 186. -Barmouth, the ‘Commercial Inn’ at, 81; town of, 183. -Beddgelert, the ‘Goat Inn’ at, 240; the grave of Llewellyn’s hound, -Gelert, 241. -Bettwys-y-Coed, iron bridge near, 293. -Birmingham, halt at, 21. -Butler, Lady Elinor, and Miss Ponsonby, their residence described, 97. -Bwlch Tyddiad, romantic scenery of, 207. - - * * * * * - -Cader Idris, altitude of, 171; traditions of, 172; views of, 179, 209. -Caernarvonshire chain of hills described, 185, 210. -Capel Curig, chapel, etc. at, 286, 291. -Car, jaunting, in Wales, 163. -Cardigan Bay, scenery and rivers of, 219, 233. -Carreg-y-Saeth, 191; its summit visited, 209. -Celylin Point and Bay, 181. -Chirk and the Ceriog river, 57. -— castle, 68. -Closs, John, story of and monument to, 282. -Conway, the ‘Castle Inn’ at, 324; venerable buildings at, 325; -description of the castle, 326; old customs at, 331; muscle pearl -fishery, 333; ford at Dynas Gonway, 334. -— river, scenery of the, 293, 310, 323, 331. -Corwen, ‘the Welsh Harp’ and ‘Owen Glyndwr’ inns, 138; church and -monuments, 139; new road, 161. -Crafnant, the residence of Mr. Owen, 190. -Cricaeth Castle and Promontory, 218. -Cwym Bychan, Llyn-y, 191; traditional story, 192. - - * * * * * - -Dale, Ann, 124. -Dee, vale of the, 86, 96, 121, 129; the river described, 150. -Dinas Bran Castle, Llangollen, 114. -— Gorten, _see_ Gorten. -Dolbadarn Castle, and Llyns Peris and Padarn, 262. -— legend of, 264, 279. -Dolgelly, vale of, 165, 171, 173; town of, 173; best inns at, 175. -Doluwcheogryd, the residence of Roland Williams Esq. 179. -Dolwyddelan castle, 287. -Drwstynrnt vale, 164, inn of, _ib._ -Dunchurch, the inn at, 20. -Dwyryd, valley of the river, 230. - - * * * * * - -Edeyrnion, vale of, 149. -Edward I. his wars in Wales, and strongholds built by, 215, 218, 328. -Einion, gallantry of Dafydd-ap Ivan-ap, 215. -— Howel-ap-, 109, 112. -Eliseg, pillar of, 128. -Ellesmere canal, and aqueduct at Chirk, 58. -Elphin, the Consolation of, a poem, by Taliesin, 323. -Evans, Hugh, story of, 166. - - * * * * * - -Festiniog, inns of the village of, 231. -Fron Fawr, the mountain of, 126. - - * * * * * - -Geirionydd, Llyn, antiquities at, 322. -Giant’s Nightcap, tradition of the stone so named, 262. -Giraldus, Topography of Wales, 288. -Glan Mawddach, loch at, 180. -Gloddarth, the mansion of Lady Mostyn Champneys, 334. -Glossary, Welsh, 6. -Glyndwr, Owen, his manorial possessions, 129: War Tramp of, 131; -traditions of, 134, 174, 178; warfare of, 215. -Gôch Owen, his imprisonment, 263; tomb of Griffith Gôch, 293; Howel -Coetmore, 319. -Gorten Dinas, encampment on, 186; traditions relative to, 187. -Griffith, Mary, or ‘the Deserted,’ 59. -Gwarine, Fitz, or the family of Warrenne, 51. -Gwrydd, public-house at, 251; romantic scenery at, 252. -Gwydir castle, estate of Willoughby d’Eresby, 308. -— chapel, built by the Wynne family, 315. -Gwynant Llyn, and Llyn Dinas described, 247, 248. -Gwynedd, Prince Owain, 290. - - * * * * * - -Harlech Castle, 214; description of, 215; besieged by the parliament -forces, 192, 207; the ‘Blue Lion’ 283; beauty of the scenery near, 218. -Herbert, Sir Richard, 216. -Hill, Lord, pillar to, 28. -Howel Coetmore, 319. -— Voel, ode by, 263. -— ap-Eynion, 109, 112. - - * * * * * - -Idris, _see_ Cader Idris. -—, and Dyn Ddu, giant brethren, the legend of, 256. -Idwal, Llyn, and cleft of Twll Du, 290. - - * * * * * - -Jones’s Edward, ‘Bardic Museum,’ 171. -— Rev. Mr. his escape at Penmaen Mawr, 358. -Jorweth, Llewellyn-ap-, tomb of, 319, 325. - - * * * * * - -Llyn Tegai parish, 291. -Llanberis church and tombs, 253, 280, 281. -Llanderfell, view from the bridge of, 150. -Llandrillo, village of, 148. -Llandysilio Hall, 132. -Llangollen, vale of, 88; ‘Aqueduct Tavern’ near, 87; inns at, 93; female -club at, 101. -Llanthyn, the estate of Sir W. W. Wynne, 164. -Llanrwst, ‘Three Eagles’ inn at, 310; plays at the Town Hall, 311; town -of, described, 310, 321. -Llewellyn, Prince of Wales, 263, 361. -— and the captive knight, 362. -Lloyd, Griffith, the rector of Llanrwst, 321. -Llugwy river, 291. - - * * * * * - -Madoc, port, slate exported from, 232. -Madock, William Alexander, Esq. 232; his mansion, Tan-y-allt, 232, 235. -— Miss, mansion of, 177. -Maentwrog, village of, 218, 219; the shoemaker of, 220; the ‘Oakley arms’ -at, 221; the Maentwrog inn at, 230. -Mallow, Mick, story of, 102. -Mawddach, river, 173, 178; embouchure of, 183. -Menai strait, the, 361, 368. -Merionethshire mountains, 230, 235. -Minstrel Fay, the ‘My Fawny Vychan,’ 108. -Moel Siabod, view from, 247, 286. -Mortimer, Roger, Earl of Wigmore, 70. -Mostyn Hall, the mansion of the Hon. E. M. L. Mostyn, 185, 188. -Myttwn, General, besieges the castle of Harlech, 192, 200. - - * * * * * - -Nannau park, 171, 178. - - * * * * * - -Ogo-ap-Shenkin, cave of, 295; adventure of Jordan-ap-Jordan at, 305. -Ogwen, Llyn, and falls of Benclog, 287. -Orme’s Head, the Great, the promontory described, 335. -Owain, William, account of, 201, 217. - - * * * * * - -Pedestrians, fashionable, in Wales, 32. -Pembroke, William Herbert, earl of, 215. -Penmaen Bach, promontory of, 353. -Penmaen Mawr, precipice of, 277; the pass, and modern road, 353; fearful -accidents at, 358; ancient British camp near, 359. -Penrhyn Castle, and Port Penrhyn, described, 368. -Peveril family, the, 51. -Phrenologist, adventure of a, 344, 351. -Pistyl-y-Cain, and falls of the river Mawddach, 178. -— Rhaidadr, waterfalls of, 69; _see_ Rhaiadr. -Pont-y-Pair, bridge of the cauldron, 294. -Powell’s History of North Wales, 288. -Price, Mr. his estate and mansion of Rhewlas, 151, 155, 158, 160, his -plantations, 161. -Pwllhely, town of, 186. - * * * * * -Rhaiadr-y-Wennot, or Spout of the Swallow, 292. -Rhaiadr-y-Parc Mawr, time to view the fall of, 322. -Rhaiadr Du, cataract of, 177, 231. - - * * * * * - -Scott, Sir Walter, note to his Marmion, 179; quotation from, 352. -Severn, river, Mountford bridge, etc. 31. -Shrewsbury, and vicinity of the town, 29. -Smuggler’s daughter, the, 335, 343. -Snowdon and Snowdonia, 172, 286, 172, 240, 251, 360, 286; _see_ Appendix. -Songs, etc.:—The Lament, 66; the Rose of Llangollen, 90; the Minstrel’s -Knell, 115; Lines at Valle Crucis, 123; Farewell to fair Rewlas, 162; -Farewell Hugh, handsome Hugh, 170; Witch of Cwm Bychan, 194, 196; -dialogue, the Traveller, 227; Lines written at Aber Glas Llyn, 237; Llyn -Gwynant, 249; Poem of Llewellyn and the Captive Knight, 362. -Stag, the enchanted, a legend, 71. -Stage-coach, society of a, 15. - - * * * * * - -Taliesin, the bard’s abode, 322; poem extant relative to, 323. -Tan-y-Bwlch, mansion of W. G. Oakley Esq. 230. -Tevi, river, 288. -Traeth Mawr and Traeth bach, arms of the sea, 218, 232, 233. -Trefriw, village of, 323. -Tremadoc, the town of Madoc, 232, 234. -Trifaen, crags of, 289. -Trout fishing in Wales, 14, 145, 156, 222, 231, 252. -Tudor-Trevor, family of, 109. - - * * * * * - -Valle Crucis, Abbey of, 121. -Vaughan, Margaret, poems by, 320. -— Sir R. W. Bart. estates of, 171, 178. -Vortigern’s Hill, near Beddgelert, 247. - - * * * * * - -Welshwomen, particulars relative to, 143, 149. -Whiffler, Mr., an amateur traveller, 130. -Wittington, village of, 48; the castle described, 50; church and tombs -at, 54. -Wnion, the river, 165, 173. -Wolverhampton, the road to, 22. -Wynne, account of the family of, 293, 309, 315, 316, 320, 325. -Wynnstay, mansion of Sir Watkin W. Wynne, Bart., 85. - - * * * * * - - END. - - * * * * * - - LONDON: - SCHULZE AND CO. 13, POLAND STREET. - - - - -FOOTNOTES. - - -{107} THE FAIRY’S SERENADE. (With an Accompaniment for the Pianoforte.) -Arranged by W. FORDE. _Allegretto_. G. BENNETT. - - [Picture: Music Score for The Fairy’s Serenade] - - The breeze hath left the Berwyn hills, - The dew was on the flower; - The bee had sought his honey comb, - The bird was in his bower; - When swifter than the mountain gale, - On Alban steed I flew - My bee I sought your honey home; - My bird I flew to you. - My bee I sought your honey home; - My bird I flew to you. - - My peerless steed is white with foam - And droops his arched neck; - The flood, the mountain, and the glen, - He crossed without a cheek. - Oh! listen while my harp I strike, - And rouse its sweetest tone; - And hear the language of a heart, - Which beats for you alone. - - The breeze hath left the Berwyn hills, - The dew is on the flower; - And I must hie to fairy land, - Ere chimes the midnight hour. - Arise bright star of beauty rise, - And when from you I roam, - Send forth the lustre of your eyes - To light me to my home. - -{130} BATTLE SONG. (_Air_—“The Swan’s Note.”) Arranged by W. FORDE. -_Bold and expressive_. - - [Picture: Music score for Battle song] - - March to the battle, - Drums loudly rattle, - Trumpets are braying, - Proud steeds are neighing, - And armour clashing, - While torrents dashing, - Loudly thunder down below. - - Bright helms are glancing, - Gay plumes are dancing, - Brave hearts are beating, - For the death meeting; - And Freedom rallies, - Sons of the valleys, - Forward then and face the foe! - Scion said Father round us come, - Gather bare the sword and strike the blow. - - From rock and heather, - Spring up together, - Fierce as the eagle, - Staunch as the beagle; - From the heart’s fountain, - Sons of the mountain, - Shout the war cry of Glyndoor! - England advances, - Proud of her lances, - Gallant and sightly, - Noble and knightly, - Wales frowns before her, - Death hovers o’er her— - Forward to the battle moor;— - Fate hath decreed ’em, - Victims to freedom; - And banners flying, - O’er dead and dying— - Wave for Cambria’s great Glyndoor! - -{143} JENNY DAVIES. (_Air_—“Llwyn-onn.”) Arranged by W. FORDE. -_Allegretto_. - - [Picture: Music score for Jenny Davies] - - I’m call’d Jenny Davies, - The fairest of Ladies, - And dwell on the bank-side where primroses grow; - My cheeks are like cherries, - My lips sweet strawberries, - My eyes are as black as the wild mountain sloe. - My heart’s warm and tender, - My waist small and slender, - I bound o’er the hills like the young mountain row; - I’m blithesome and witty, - Then sure ’tis a pity, - That I for a husband should sight forth heigh ho! - - With sighing and suing, - Young Arthur came wooing, - But he was too shy for a buxom young lass, - Then came handsome Harry, - Who press’d me to marry, - But he was too fond of his toilet and glass; - Then followed brave Rowland, - Who lives in the low-land, - But he was too rough for a delicate maid; - Sure, sure ’tis a pity, - A young girl so pretty, - Should sigh for a husband and pine in the shade. - - Young Carlie abused me, - And sadly misused me, - He vow’d to be mine and ran off with Miss Jones; - And last came a Quaker, - A grave undertaker, - Who promis’d he’d soon make me bone of his bones; - But he late and early - Is peevish and surly, - No longer I smile, and to dance I’m afraid; - I can’t bear to choose him, - And yet if I lose him, - Perhaps, (Oh, my stars!) I shall die an old maid. - -{176} MOUNTAIN MARY. (_Air_—“Cader Idris.”) Arranged by W. FORDE. -_Allegretto_. - - [Picture: Music score for Mountain Mary] - - The sun had gone down, and the monarch of mountains - Had robed his dark form in a mantle of cloud; - The primroses slept by the summer dried fountains, - And beauty’s own river seem’d dreaming aloud. - In the dale of the Hazel all nature seem’d weeping, - And mild was the moon-light that silver’d the grove; - But wakeful was morn flew my own mountain Mary, - To gladden my heart with the breathings of love. - - She looked down to blush, from the gaze of her lover, - Her snowy lids veiling her heaven-blue eyes; - More sweet was her breath than the dew-sprinkled clover, - When morning first breaks through the gates of the skies. - The land-breeze sprang up, and my bark tripp’d her anchor, - Ah me, how we started to feel that fair wind, - “Remember,” she cried, “the dear dale of the Hazel - And poor mountain Mary left weeping behind.” - - Far, far did I wander in climes hotly burning, - Till fortune repaid me with wealth in good store; - Then swift as a bird’s flight o’er high waves returning, - Our vessel was wafted to Abermaw’s shore. - With the speed of the roe-buck I flew to my Mary, - Joy’s tears from her eyes fell like midsummer rain; - And now in Dolgelley by wedlock united, - The world and its wealth shall ne’er part us again. - -{240} See appendix. - -{250} The Blue Well, one of the pools in the recesses of the great -mountain, which discharges its waters into Llynn Gwynant. - -{266} See appendix. - -{304} DAFYDD AP SHENKIN. (For Three Voices.) Arranged by W. FORDE. - - [Picture: Music score for Dafydd ap Shenkin] - - Oh! Shenkin was a noble fellow, - As ever rov’d in Conway vale; - He drank till he was mellow, drank till he was mellow, - He drank till he was mellow, - And fought till his foes turn’d pale. - - Well did he strike for merry freedom, - And England fear’d his great renown, - For laws—himself decreed ’em, - And gallantly held his own. - - Then drink boys to the outlaw’d ranger, - And let us seek old Dafydd’s cave, - Where oft he cheer’d the stranger, - And dug for his foes a grave. - -{384} FAREWELL TO NORTH WALES. (_Air_—“Ar hyd y nos.”) Arranged by W. -FORDE. _Andante espressivo_. - - [Picture: Music score for Farewell to North Wales] - - Mountain, glen, wild rock, and heather, - Now farewell! - Lakes and fairy dells for ever, - All farewell. - Land of love and softest blisses, - Casket of my dearest wishes, - I would cover thee with kisses, - But farewell. - - Burning tears proclaim my anguish, - Fare—farewell. - When away from thee I languish, - Fare—farewell. - Friends and kindred when I’m sleeping, - To my beating heart come creeping - Morning brings me woe and weeping, - Fare—farewell. - - Land where beauty ever glances, - Fare—farewell. - And where joy for ever dances, - Fare—farewell. - Surly winds are round me blowing, - Wildly are my white locks flowing, - Drear and dark the day is growing, - Fare—farewell. - - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PEDESTRIAN'S GUIDE THROUGH NORTH -WALES*** - - -******* This file should be named 64203-0.txt or 64203-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/4/2/0/64203 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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