59 files changed, 17 insertions, 20964 deletions

diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d7b82bc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/.gitattributes
@@ -0,0 +1,4 @@
+*.txt text eol=lf
+*.htm text eol=lf
+*.html text eol=lf
+*.md text eol=lf
diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6312041
--- /dev/null
+++ b/LICENSE.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c41727b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/README.md
@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #64203 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/64203)
diff --git a/old/64203-0.txt b/old/64203-0.txt
deleted file mode 100644
index 38cc15d..0000000
--- a/old/64203-0.txt
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,9706 +0,0 @@
-The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Pedestrian's Guide through North Wales, by
-George John Bennett, Illustrated by Alfred Clint
-
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions 
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at 
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-
-Title: The Pedestrian's Guide through North Wales
-
-
-Author: George John Bennett
-
-
-
-Release Date: January 3, 2021  [eBook #64203]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-
-***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PEDESTRIAN'S GUIDE THROUGH NORTH
-WALES***
-
-
-Transcribed from the 1838 Henry Colburn edition by David Price.  Many
-thanks to Mold Library for allowing their copy to be consulted.
-
-                [Picture: Caernarvonshire, from Anglesea]
-
-
-
-
-
-                                   THE
-                            PEDESTRIAN’S GUIDE
-                                 THROUGH
-                               NORTH WALES.
-
-
-                                  A TOUR
-                            PERFORMED IN 1837.
-
-                                    BY
-                           G. J. BENNETT, ESQ.
-
-                          WITH TWENTY ETCHINGS,
-
-                               BY A. CLINT.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-                                 LONDON:
-                         HENRY COLBURN PUBLISHER,
-                      13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
-                                  1838.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-                                 LONDON:
-                   SCHULZE AND CO., 13, POLAND STREET.
-
-
-
-
-ILLUSTRATIONS, &c.
-
-                                                       Page
-     1  Caernarvonshire, from Anglesea.               Title
-     2  Chirk Castle.                                    68
-     3  Llangollen.                                      93
-     4  Font in the grounds of Plas Newydd.              99
-     5  Castle Dinas, Bran.                             108
-     6  Valle Crucis Abbey.                             121
-     7  Pillar of Eliseg.                               128
-     8  Bala Lake.                                      155
-     9  Cader Idris, from the Bala Road.                171
-    10  Parliament House of Owen Glyndwr.               174
-    11  View from Carreg y Saeth.                       209
-    12  Harlech Castle.                                 215
-    13  The Vale of Maentwrog.                          219
-    14  The Raven Fall, near Maentwrog.                 231
-    15  Pont Aber Glaslyn.                              237
-    16  Snowdon, from the Pass of Llyn Gwynant.         251
-    17  Pass of Llanberis.                              254
-    18  The Coffin of Leolinus Magnus.                  319
-    19  Conway Castle.                                  325
-    20  Aber.                                           362
-                   WELSH MELODIES, ETC.
-    21  Guide for the Pedestrian.                        11
-    22  The Fairy’s Serenade.                           109
-    23  Battle Song.                                    131
-    24  Jenny Davies.                                   143
-    25  Mountain Mary.                                  176
-    26  Dafydd ap Shenkin.                              305
-    27  Farewell to North Wales.                        384
-
-
-
-
-CONTENTS.
-
-
-                              CHAPTER I.
-                                                                  Page
-Preliminary observations—Preparations for a tour—Coach              11
-conversation—A breakfast and an American traveller—Route to
-Birmingham—A dinner—Road to Wolverhampton—Eccentric
-passengers—Lord Hill’s monument—Shrewsbury.
-                             CHAPTER II.
-Walk to Montford Bridge—The Severn—An agreeable                     30
-companion—Delights of a Tourist—Histrionic
-Ambition—Wittington—The Castle—The Church—Curious Epitaphs.
-                             CHAPTER III.
-Chirk—The Aqueduct—The Deserted, a legend—Description of            57
-Chirk Castle—Sketch—The Park—Legend of the enchanted
-Stag—The Vale of Llangollen—Account of the Aqueduct called
-Pont-y-Cysylltau—Stanzas for music—Llangollen—The Hand in
-Hand—A view of the village.
-                             CHAPTER IV.
-Waking prospect—Plas Newydd and the grounds—Lines written           96
-at the font—Castle Dinas, Bran—Legend of Mick Mallow—View
-of the Castle—Legend of the Minstrel Fay—Original
-Air—Festival.
-                              CHAPTER V.
-Valle Crucis—The Abbey—Lines written in the ruins—A                121
-loquacious porteress—A view of the Abbey—The pillar of
-Eliseg—A parting—Road to Corwen—Vale of the Dee—The musical
-pedestrian—War song—Over the hills and far away—An
-adventure—Corwen—The Church—College—Cross and Circle—Air
-Llwyn-own—Route to Llandrillo—An old soldier and his
-son—Village of Llandrillo—A fair—Vale of Edeyrnion—Arrival
-at Bala.
-                             CHAPTER VI.
-Bala—The Lake—A Meeting of Magistrates—The                         154
-Doctor—Rhewlas—Lines written at Rhewlas—Farewell to the
-Bull’s Head—A Jolter—Llanthyn—Vale of Drwstynrnt—Legend of
-handsome Hugh and the Fairy—Cader Idris—Dolgelley—Song
-“Mountain Mary”—The Town Hall—Parliament House—St. Mary’s
-Church—Inns—Angling Station, Doluwcheogryd—The Cataracts of
-Rhaiadr Du and Pistyll y Cain—Nannau Park—Anecdote of Owen
-Glyndwr and Howell Sele—Road to Barmouth—Arrival—Inns—A
-Walk on the sands.
-                             CHAPTER VII.
-Description of Barmouth—Sketch of the Town—The                     183
-Estuary—Friar’s Island—Dinas Gortin—Earl of
-Richmond—Anecdote of the men of Ardudwy, and the men of
-Denbighshire—Mostyn Hall—A pic-nic party—Llyn Cwm
-Bychan—Carreg y Saeth—The Witch of Cwm Bychan—Legendary
-Tale—Bwlch Tyddiad—A mountain ride and a regretful farewell
-                            CHAPTER VIII.
-Harlech—The Inn—The Castle—Anecdote of Dafydd ap Ivan ap           213
-Einion—Road to Maentwrog—View—A persevering Cobbler—The
-Oakley Arms—Pleasures of Fly fishing—New Companions—Angling
-Stations—An Adventure—Road to Tremadoc—Tan y Bwlch—Port
-Madoc Breakwater and Mountain Scenery
-described—Tremadoc—Tan yr Allt—Pont Aber Glas Llyn—Lines
-written at the Bridge—Beddgelert—The Inn—Story of a
-Pointer.
-                             CHAPTER IX.
-Departure from Beddgelert—Vortigern’s Hill—Snowdon—Llynn           246
-Gwynant—Lines written upon Llynn Gwynant—Gwrydd—Public
-House—Lake Fishing—A Night Adventure—Pass of
-Llanberis—Legend of the Giant’s Night-Cap—The Lakes—The
-Castle of Dolbadarn and Legend—View of Llanberis.
-                              CHAPTER X.
-The church of Llanberis—Monumental inscriptions—Story of           280
-little John Closs—The Pellings—Capel Curig—Moel
-Siabod—Castle of Dolwyddélan—Falls of Benclog—Llyn
-Ogwen—Llyn Idwal—Story of Idwal—Route to Llanrwst—Falls of
-Rhaiadr y Wennol—Bettws y Coed—The church—Monuments—Pont y
-Pair—Ogo ap Shenkin, a Legend—Glee, “Shenkin was a noble
-fellow!”
-                             CHAPTER XI.
-A Mistake—Road to Llanrwst—Gwydir Castle—Llanrwst Shaking          306
-Bridge—Inn—The Theatre—Town Hall—Free Schools—Alms
-Houses—Rhaiadr y Parc Mawr—Llyn
-Gierionydd—Taliesin—Trefriw—Slate Quarries—Conway—The
-Suspension Bridge—The Castle—Local Customs—A
-Phrenologist—Excursion to the Ormes’ Head—The Smuggler—The
-Bump of _Order_.
-                             CHAPTER XII.
-Route to Aber—Penmaen Mawr—The pet Goat—Aber—Legend of             352
-Llywelyn and the Captive Knight—Road from Aber to
-Bangor—Penrhyn Castle—Bangor—Inns—The Cathedral—The
-Castle—Free Schools—The Menai Bridge—Song, Farewell to
-North Wales, air, Ar Hyd y Nos—Conclusion
-Appendix                                                           375
-
-
-
-
-PREFACE.
-
-
-THE Author’s object in offering to the Public the following pages is,
-that all who have a desire to examine the beauties of Welsh scenery may
-also have an opportunity of seeing the most _interesting_ portion of it
-in a tour which will not occupy more than a month.  The route described
-in this volume presents a variety of pictures which can scarcely be
-equalled, and certainly not surpassed, in any quarter of the globe.  It
-is true there are hills higher far than any in Snowdonia, and valleys
-more extensive; but, while we are astonished at a description of the
-enormous magnitude of the Asiatic and American mountains, and the noble
-rivers, and sea-like lakes of the latter, let us take into our
-consideration which is the most desirable country to explore; that in
-which nature’s prodigies are so extensive that we can neither ascend the
-eminences, ford the rivers, nor view the opposite shores of the extensive
-lakes; or _that_ where mountains may be scaled with ease, from the
-summits of which, a series of glorious panoramas burst upon the
-eye,—wherein the valleys, glens and wild ravines present an endless
-variety of sublimity and beauty, and the loud torrent and the waterfall
-pour forth their melody of never tiring sweetness, to delight the ear?
-
-Seas must be crossed, and miles of dreary and uninteresting country
-traversed, in wandering from one grand object to another in the _former_;
-while, in the route here represented to the Public,—within the reach of
-all—repose and admiration charm the heart by turns, in the rich fertile
-valleys, lofty and wood-clad hills, or heather-mantled mountains, of
-North Wales.  The traveller is likewise insured the comfort of a good
-inn, where he may rest his wearied limbs, after a day’s ramble in
-whatever part of the district he chooses to select for his excursion; and
-the healthy and active should decidedly make _use_ of their _limbs_, to
-bear them through this tour, in preference to the more easy and luxurious
-vehicle, and even to the equestrian mode of conveyance.  A good
-horsewoman may venture into the dark defiles, or climb the craggy heights
-upon the ponys, which are always in readiness at the inns for that
-purpose; but between a man and his steed there will most assuredly be a
-strong feeling of sympathy created by a conviction, that the one is a
-most unnecessary burthen to the other.
-
-For the etchings which illustrate this little work, the Author is
-indebted to his friend Mr. Alfred Clint, who accompanied him in his
-second tour, and whose judicious selection of subjects has given a value
-to the volume, which, without his aid, would have been deficient in its
-principal ornaments.  There is no composition in any of the
-illustrations; they are the scenes of nature reflected in the mirror of
-art.  Not a mountain or valley, grey ruin or waterfall, but is
-represented as it really _is_; and for the best reason in the world, viz.
-that any attempt to improve upon the subjects, would destroy their real
-beauty.
-
-The peasantry are simple, honest, and obliging; and, as they trudge
-along, a spirit of freedom sparkles in their eyes, and seems to animate
-every action of their unfettered limbs.  Though their fare is humble,
-they enjoy it with an appetite to which the bracing air of their hills,
-and their happy ignorance of luxuries, give an enviable zest.
-Drunkenness is a vice almost unknown among these primitive mountaineers:
-milk is their common beverage, oatmeal cakes, and potatoes, with a
-plentiful supply of trout from their native streams, form their chief
-summer food; while, in winter, dry salted beef and mutton serve to
-satisfy their utmost wishes.
-
-    “Though poor the peasant’s hut, his feasts tho’ small,
-    He sees his little lot the lot of all.
-
-                                  * * * * *
-
-    Dear is that shed to which his soul conforms,
-    And dear that hill which lifts him to the storms.
-    And, as a child, when scaring sounds molest,
-    Clings close and closer to the mother’s breast,
-    So the loud torrent, and the whirlwind’s roar,
-    But bind him to his native mountains more.”
-
-
-
-
-DIRECTIONS
-TO THOSE UNACQUAINTED WITH THE WELSH LANGUAGE.
-
-
-A knowledge of the Welsh alphabet is indispensable to those who are
-desirous of correctly pronouncing the necessary questions and answers
-that transpire upon the road.  The names of places must effectually
-puzzle any tourist, who is not acquainted with the peculiar sound of each
-letter, particularly where there are many consonants in a word.  In order
-therefore to aid the traveller in Wales, I have selected the following
-rules.
-
-In the Welsh alphabet there are no mutes; and all letters that are
-circumflex must be pronounced long, as
-
-Bôn like the English Bone.
-Bin, as Been.
-C, as Can, but never soft as in City.
-Ch, is pronounced as the Greek χ.
-Dd, as the English Th in theme.
-F, as V in English.
-Ff, as F and double F in English.
-G, as G in good, but never soft as in genial.
-I, as I in king but never as in fire.
-Ll, as L aspirated.
-Th, as in thought.
-U, as I in the English words bliss, kiss &c.
-W, as double O in good, wood.
-Y, as U in burn, but in the last syllable of a word; and in all
-monosyllables except Y, Ydd, Ym, Yn, Yr, Ys, Fy, Dy, Myn, it is like I in
-Sin.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-By attending to these rules, the stranger will easily make himself
-understood by the peasantry, and on his tours, in enquiring for any place
-to which he may be journeying.
-
-
-
-GLOSSARY.
-
-
-Ap, or Ab, is prefixed to proper names, and signifies, the son of.
-Aber, the fall of one water into another, a confluence.
-Am, about, around.
-Ar, upon, or bordering upon.
-Avon, or Afon, a river.
-Ban, high, lofty, tall.
-Bach, little, small.
-Bedd, a grave, a sepulchre.
-Bettws, a station between hill and vale.
-Blaen, a point or end.
-Bôd, a residence.
-Braich, a branch.
-Bron, the breast or slope of a hill.
-Bryn, a hill, a mount.
-Bychan, little.
-Bylch, a gap or pass.
-Cader, a chair.
-Caer, a city.
-Capel, a chapel.
-Carn, a heap.
-Carnedd, a heap of stones.
-Careg, a stone.
-Castell, a castle, fortress.
-Cil, (pronounced keel) a retreat, a recess.
-Clawdd, a hedge, a dyke.
-Clogwyn, a precipice.
-Coed, a wood.
-Cors, a bog, a fen.
-Craig, a rock or craig.
-Croes, a cross.
-Cym, a valley or glen.
-Dinas, a fort, a city, or a fortified place.
-Dol, a meadow or dale in the bend of the river.
-Drws, a doorway, a pass.
-Dû, black.
-Dwfr or Dwr, water.
-Dyffryn, a valley.
-Eglwys, a church.
-Ffordd, away, a road a passage.
-Ffynnon, a well, a spring.
-Garth, a hill bending round.
-Glàn, a brink or shore.
-Glâs, bluish or greyish green.
-Glyn, a glen or valley through which a river runs.
-Gwern, a watery meadow.
-Gwydd, a wood.
-Gwyn, white, fair.
-Llan, a church, a smooth area, an inclosure.
-Llwyn, a grove.
-Maen, a stone.
-Mawr, great.
-Moel, a smooth conical hill.
-Mynydd, a mountain.
-Nant, a ravine, a brook.
-Newydd, new, fresh.
-Pant, a hollow or valley.
-Pistyll, a spout, a cataract.
-Plas, a hall or palace.
-Plwyf, a parish.
-Pont, a bridge.
-Porth, a ferry, a port, a gateway.
-Pwll, a pit or pool.
-Rhaiadr, a cataract.
-Rhiw, an ascent.
-Ryhd, a ford.
-Sarn, a causeway, a pavement.
-Tal, the front or head, also tall.
-Traeth, a sand or shore.
-Tre or Tref, a home, a town.
-Twr, a tower.
-Ty, a house.
-Y, the, of.
-Yn, in, at, into.
-Ynys, an island.
-Ystrad, a vale, a dale.
-Yspytty, a hospital, an almshouse.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-By referring to this short Glossary, the tourist will find no difficulty
-in understanding the meanings of the different names given to the
-different places through which he will have to pass.
-
-
-
-INTERJECTIONS.
-
-
-As there are many interjectional adverbs made use of in the following
-pages, a glossary of them might prove useful.
-
-Aro! stop!
-Dacw! yonder!
-Dyna, dyna! there, there.
-Dyt, dyt! hold, hold!
-Fwrz! away!
-Gwae, woe.
-Hai how! heigho!
-Hwnt! avaunt!
-O dyn! oh dear!
-Oia! oh pray!
-Oio! hear me!
-Truan bac! poor little thing!
-Truan hyny! poor thing, that it was!
-Twt! pshaw!
-Wela, wela! well, well!
-Ysywaeth! the more the pity!
-
-
-
-
-GUIDE FOR THE PEDESTRIAN.
-
-         ROUTE.               COUNTIES.        MILES.     PRINCIPAL INNS.      OBJECTS OF           ANGLING
-                                                                                INTEREST.          STATIONS.
-From LONDON to            Salop                     154  The                The House of       The Severn.
-SHREWSBURY,                                              Talbot—Raven—      Industry—
-                                                         Lion, and the      Military
-                                                         Fox.               Depôt—Lord
-                                                                            Hill’s
-                                                                            Column—Quarry
-                                                                            Walk—and the
-                                                                            Castle.
-thence to WITTINGTON      Do.                        16                     The Castle, and    The Severn.
-                                                                            the Church.
-CHIRK                     Denbighshire                6  The Hand.          The Castle—The     The Ceiriog.
-                                                                            Aqueduct and
-                                                                            Vale.
-LLANGOLLEN                Do.                         7  The Hand—King’s    Bran—Church—Plas   The Dee—to
-                                                         Head, and Royal    Newydd—Pont        Corwen or
-                                                         Oak.               Cysylltan.         Overton.
-CORWEN                    Merionethshire             10  The Owen           The                Between Corwen
-                                                         Glyndwr.           Church—Cross—      and Llan St.
-                                                                            Glyndwys           Ffraid bridge.
-                                                                            Seat—Vale of
-                                                                            Edeyrnion.
-BALA                      Do.                        12  White Lion &       The Lake—Aran      Bala lake and
-                                                         Bull’s Head.       Fowddwy—Arrenig    pool, halfway up
-                                                                            Vawr—Arrenig       the Arrenig
-                                                                            Vach.              Vach—R. Dee.
-DOLGELLEY                 Do.                        18  Golden             Nannau             Lanvachreth 3½
-                                                         Lion—Angel, &      Park—Kymmer        miles—Dol-y-
-                                                         Ship.              Abbey—County       gammed, on the
-                                                                            gaol—Parliament    Avon, 4
-                                                                            House of Owen      miles—Llyn
-                                                                            Glyndwr—The        Cregnan, S.W. 4
-                                                                            Falls of Rhaiadr   miles—Llyn
-                                                                            Mawddach—Rhaiadr   Gader, 1½ m—Llyn
-                                                                            Du, and            Griew, 5
-                                                                            Pistyll-y-Cain.    m—Tal-y-llyn, on
-                                                                                               Cader Idris, 6
-                                                                                               m.
-BARMOUTH                  Do.                        10  Commercial Inn,    Old Town—Sarn      Llyn Raithlyn,
-                                                         and Cors-y-gedol   Badric—Cors-y-     near
-                                                         Arms.              gedol.             Trawsfynydd—
-                                                                                               Arthog Chapel, 3
-                                                                                               m. distant—Llyn
-                                                                                               Bodlyn, 4 M.
-                                                                                               from
-                                                                                               Barmouth—Llyn
-                                                                                               Teddin and Llyn
-                                                                                               Gierw, near the
-                                                                                               town.
-HARLECH                   Do.                        10  The Blue Lion.     The Castle—Cwm     Llanvihangel, on
-                                                                            Bychan—The         Dwyryd, 5
-                                                                            Cromlech, 2        m—Llanbedr on
-                                                                            miles S. in a      the Bychan, 3
-                                                                            farm called        m—Llyn-y-Vedw,
-                                                                            Gwern Einion—A     Llyn Eiddaw,
-                                                                            Druidical circle   Llyn
-                                                                            between the Farm   Glyn—Llyn-y-cwm
-                                                                            and Harlech.       Bychan—Llyn
-                                                                                               Trewyn.
-MAENTWROG                 Do.                        10  Maentwrog Inn,     Tan-y-Bwlch—       Llyn Llanyrch,
-                                                         and Oakley Arms.   Slate Quarries,    3½ m (good
-                                                                            5 m—Rhaiadr Du     trout)—
-                                                                            and Raven fall,    Cwmmorthin Lake
-                                                                            2 m—Festiniog, 3   (in the pass of
-                                                                            m—Falls of         Cwmmorthin) 4½
-                                                                            Cynfall—Roman      m—Llyn Mannot, 6
-                                                                            encampment         m (large
-                                                                            (Toman Mur) 3 m    trout)—Llyn
-                                                                            from Festiniog.    Murionion, 6
-                                                                                               m—Llyn Tackwyn.
-                                                                                               3 m.
-TREMADOC                  Caernarvonshire.          10½  Madoc Arms.        The Breakwater     Angling from
-                                                                            at Port            Tremadoc.
-                                                                            Madoc—The
-                                                                            Church.
-BEDDGELERT                Do.                       10½  The Goat.          Gelert’s           Nant
-                                                                            grave—The chair    Gwynnant—Llyn
-                                                                            of Rhys Gocho’r’   Dinas—Cwm
-                                                                            Ryri—Pont Aber     Llan—Llyn
-                                                                            Glas Llyn.         Gwynnant—Llyn
-                                                                                               Llydan.
-LLANBERIS                 Do.                        14  The Victoria,      Dolbadarn          Upper and lower
-                                                         and Snowdonia.     Castle—The         lakes (bad
-                                                                            Church—The Tomb    sport)—Llyn Cwm
-                                                                            of little John     Dwythog, 2
-                                                                            Closs—Well of      m—Llyn Llydan
-                                                                            St.                (on Snowdon), 5
-                                                                            Peris—Lakes—       m—Glaslyn, on
-                                                                            Pass.              the W. of
-                                                                                               Snowdon.
-CAPEL CURIG               Do.                        10  Capel Curig Inn.   Rhaiadr-y-Wennol
-                                                                            waterfall—Moel-Siabod—
-                                                                            Dolwyddelan
-                                                                            Castle, 5 m.
-BETTWS-Y-COED             Do.                         5                     Pont-y-pair—       Lake Ogwen—Nant
-                                                                            Shenkin’s          Francon—Llyn
-                                                                            Cave—Church—       Idwal—R. Llugwy.
-                                                                            Monument to
-                                                                            Davyd Goch.
-LLANRWST                  Denbighshire.               5  The Eagles.        The
-                                                                            Bridge—Gwydir
-                                                                            Castle—The
-                                                                            Church—Gwydir
-                                                                            Chapel.
-CONWAY                    Caernarvonshire.           12  The Castle, and    The                Bettws-y-Coed, 3
-                                                         the Newborough     Castle—Church—     m—Trevriw, 2 ½
-                                                         Arms.              Curious            m—Dol-garrog, 4
-                                                                            monuments—Plas     m—Llanbedr, 5
-                                                                            Mawr—Ormes-head.   m—Dolwyddelan, 8
-                                                                                               m—Tal-y-Llyn,
-                                                                                               and Llyn
-                                                                                               Crafnant, near
-                                                                                               Llanrwst.
-ABER-GWYNGREGYN           Do.                         9  The Bulkley        The Waterfall      Llyn Ogwen—Llyn
-                                                         Arms.              and Glen—Penmaen   Idwal, and Ogwen
-                                                                            Mawr.              river.
-BANGOR                    Do.                        5½  The Penrhyn        Penrhyn            The fishing
-                                                         Arms—The           Castle—Slate       stations as
-                                                         Castle—the         quarries—          above.
-                                                         Liverpool Arms,    Caenarvon—Menai
-                                                         and Albion.        Bridge—Beaumaris
-                                                                            and
-                                                                            Castle—Penmon
-                                                                            Monastery—Plas
-                                                                            Newydd—Baron
-                                                                            Hill—Puffin
-                                                                            Island, and the
-                                                                            Cathedral.
-
-CHAPTER I.
-
-
-Preliminary observations—Preparations for a tour—Coach conversation—A
-breakfast and an American traveller—Route to Birmingham—A dinner—Road to
-Wolverhampton—Eccentric passengers—Lord Hill’s monument—Shrewsbury.
-
-    “Like brethren now do Welshmen still agree
-    In as much love as any men alive;
-    The friendship there and concord that I see
-    I doe compare to bees in honey hive,
-    Which keep in swarme, and hold together still,
-    Yet gladly showe to stranger great good will;
-    A courteous kinde of love in every place
-    A man may finde, in simple people’s face.”
-
-                                                               CHURCHYARD.
-
-VARIOUS, as the features of human nature, are the sources of human
-happiness.  Some derive their choicest pleasure from historical accounts
-of men who lived in by-gone ages, and in re-creating events that have
-long since been engulphed in the abyss of time,—breaking down the
-barriers of intervening years, and mingling, in idea, with those who were
-once deemed the glorious of the earth, who now lie blended with its
-grossest atoms, or are confounded with the purer elements.  Some,
-parching with the thirst of knowledge, seek to slake the fever of their
-minds with most laborious research; explore the utmost regions of the
-globe to find a shorter marine passage; or pierce into its depths to seek
-for treasures which only exist in their heated fancies.  The vast ocean
-is fathomed to satisfy the ruling principle of their natures,—curiosity;
-and the realms of air traversed with the same motive to insure the
-universally desired result, self-gratification.  While some, leaving the
-elements to perform the destined changes, are willing to agree with the
-poet, who in the warmth of his philanthropy exclaims:
-
-    “The proper study of mankind is man;”
-
-and among this class of beings the author of these pages may be ranked,
-although he willingly confesses nature has the power of charming him in
-her most minute as in her most stupendous works, from the curious and
-confined instinct of the ant and of the bee to the wonderful and
-exhaustless energies of the human mind,
-
-                “That source
-    Whence learning, virtue, wisdom, all things flow.”
-
-The court, the city, and the country, present an endless variety of
-subjects for contemplation; and the latter being the region of delight to
-those whose business confines them to the metropolis for the winter
-months, the author of this volume is anxious to be thought a useful and
-an amusing companion to such tourists who, in pursuit of health and the
-charms of nature, may wander
-
-    “In the Welsh vales ’mid mountains high,”
-
-where the sublime and beautiful present themselves at every turn to
-captivate the eye, and ruddy health colours the smiling faces of every
-peasant girl and shepherd boy, from Chirk to Holyhead.
-
-To a mind capable of estimating fine scenery, how delightful are the
-hurry and bustle which usually take place on the morning of departure, in
-fond expectation of realizing the anticipated pleasure of viewing those
-beauties of nature the imagination has but weakly painted!  The sun is
-scarcely sooner up than the traveller; and, although the coach in which
-he is to be rolled some hundred and fifty miles will not start for
-perhaps three hours, his anxiety preponderates over the now slighted
-comforts of his bed of down, and with an agile leap he quits his restless
-pillow, and hastily despatching the business of his toilet, with his
-heart beating high, and his knapsack already stuffed with three shirts,
-as many pairs of stockings, guide books, and as few other necessaries as
-may be, in order to make his walking wardrobe as light as possible, he
-prepares to “take the road.”  If a disciple of old Isaac Walton and
-Cotton, he will not fail to have his book of flies, lines, reel, &c., and
-a light fly rod to carry in his hand, and for which he is sure to have
-use whenever he feels inclined for piscatory pastime on his tour.  So
-stocked and provided, he bids defiance to the evils of life; and may
-exclaim with the poet
-
-    “Warly cares and warly men
-    May a’ gae tapsalteeree O!”
-
-“Do you ride upon the box, sir?”
-
-“To be sure I do—paid that fellow to keep it for me.”
-
-“All right, sir: mount if you please,—not a minute to spare.  All right
-behind there?”
-
-“All right.”
-
-“Hold fast, sir!—let ’em go, Joey!  Blow avay, Bill,” then addressing the
-near wheeler; “eh, vot, you’re at your tantarums again!  I’ll vork ’em
-out of you before ve gets to the end of the stage.  Do you know, sir, it
-vas all along of this here varmint that ve’d the upset last veek.”
-
-“Indeed! we’ve a pleasant prospect before us, then.”
-
-“Oh there’s no fear, sir; I vas never upset in my life, and I’ve been
-upon this here road for five and twenty years come next Christmas; but it
-vas all along of a gemman as had the reins in hand, ven poor Ned Burkem
-just vent in for his mornins, at the King’s Arms—yonder you may see the
-sign just afore us; ve alvays stops there for our mornins, case you see,
-sir, the landlord vas von of us, and his daughter is a main pretty girl.
-I suppose, sir, you’ve no objection to look at a pretty girl, ha, ha!”
-
-“None in the world, James.”
-
-“Veil, here ve are; and now, sir, if you’ll just lay hold of the ribbons
-for von minute, I’ll leave ’em this here parcel.”
-
-To this proposition I agreed, with the proviso that one ostler should
-hold the tricksey mare, and another stand at the leaders’ heads, having
-no wish for a repetition of poor old Ned Burkem’s mishap.  The parcel
-being delivered, the half pint of purl swallowed, and James again seated,
-like ruddy Phœbus, on the coach box, the horses were put in motion to the
-tune of eleven miles an hour.
-
-“Very pretty travelling this, Mr. —, I beg your pardon, sir, but your
-name is —”
-
-“Yes, you’re right, James.”
-
-“Veil, I thought I vas, sir; it’s not always that I can remember names,
-sir; for you must know that, although I’ve drove some thousands in my
-time, just seated where you are, sir, at this present, I don’t think I
-could remember one half of their names.”
-
-“Very surprising indeed, for a man of your observation.”
-
-“Lord bless you, sir, vy my observation is nothing to Squire —, that’s
-his house you see on your left; they say he can see the Eclipse (coach)
-in the moon.  But they can’t tool ’em along as ve does here, I take it,
-sir.  Go along, snarler!”
-
-James’s tongue and the coach continued in rapid progress; and in due time
-we reached the Sportsman Inn at Whetstone, when the passengers had an
-opportunity of displaying the extraordinary effects produced by the
-morning air upon fasting stomachs.  A lady and her daughter, who were
-inside passengers, did ample justice to the fare; the latter, in
-particular, payed away at the cold fowl and ham in a manner truly
-surprising.  “Coach ready, ladies,” cried James; and up jumped mother and
-pet, with mouths full of fowl, toast, etc., which they washed down,
-unmasticated, with the dregs of their tea; and in a minute were again
-seated inside the coach, opposite to two gentlemen, one rather a
-corpulent man, with “spectacles on nose,” the other a gay young citizen,
-who was to leave us at Barnet.
-
-The coach had not started above five minutes, before fragrant wreaths of
-smoke were making their escape out of the window, and delighting the
-outside passengers with the refreshing odour: for this we were indebted
-to the stout gentleman before mentioned, who having lately arrived from
-America, could not be expected to understand the civilized customs of
-travellers in England, and who inconsiderately concluded that his cigar
-was as agreeable to the ladies as to himself.  It proved otherwise,
-however: the cold fowl lay uneasy, and the ham seemed to object to being
-smoked.  This, both ladies endeavoured to intimate to their opposite
-neighbour, by sundry wry faces and beseeching looks.  At length, his
-cigar being nearly finished, the smoker could no longer pretend blindness
-to the distressing condition to which he had reduced his companions—and
-he then asked “if they had any objection to smoking?”
-
-The elderly lady, whose politeness had extended to the utmost limits of
-her nature, with a forced smile replied (while the ashy paleness of her
-face spoke the tumult that was stirring within,) “Not the—slightest, sir,
-if you have no objection to—to—” open the other window, she would have
-said, but the daughter could no longer support the motion of the coach
-and the fumes of tobacco, and, to the horror of the American gentleman,
-he instantly found himself in no very enviable situation.
-
-He started from his seat, and almost lifted the roof of the coach off by
-the concussion between it and his head.  “No objection, madam!” cried he
-in great wrath; “but I wish you to understand that I have a very great
-objection to this, I calculate!—Here, coachman! stop! let me get out!
-will you?”
-
-Coachee complied, and the ladies were doubly relieved.
-
-“I’m in a pretty considerable pickle, I’m thinking!” said he, as he
-seated himself behind us on the roof.
-
-The more agreeable rattle of the wheels prevented our hearing more of his
-complaints, and we arrived at Barnet.
-
-About a mile and a half from Barnet, upon the right, is the estate of Mr.
-Byng, and a little further, on the left, that of Mr. Trotter.  The town
-of St. Albans with its ancient Abbey, which creates pleasing ideas of
-bygone times, of monks and friars, “fat pullets and clouted cream,” was
-passed through; and descending the hill, on leaving the town, fresh
-objects became interesting to the eye.
-
-After leaving Gorham Bury, Earl Verulam’s seat on the left, we came to
-Market Street and passed a delightful residence called Market Cell, the
-property of a Mr. Johnson, and beyond Sir F. P. Turner’s on the right,
-and Mr. Duncombe’s on the left, are places that make a man desirous of
-possessing £10,000 per annum.
-
-Dunstable is rattled through next, and then comes _Fenny Stratford_,
-_Stony Stratford_, _Easton Neston_, and then _Lord Pomfret’s_ noble
-domain.  _Towcester_ comes next upon the list, and _Weedon Barracks_,
-where a view of the rail road presents itself.
-
-Then the coach enters Dunchurch, changing horses at the Dun Inn; where
-being pretty well roasted in the hot sun, some of the passengers
-endeavoured to obtain a draught of something to moisten their parched
-throats; but if the garrison of Weedon had discharged all their powder in
-firing an alarm, and the bells of Dunchurch had joined in the uproar, I
-do not think a single soul would have answered the summons in the Dun
-Inn.  We were obliged therefore to ascend again, with throats unquenched.
-
-From Dunchurch the coach passes through a noble avenue of elms and firs
-which stretches for six miles beyond the village, certainly the finest
-avenue, in extent, I ever beheld; and the size of the trees is not the
-least interesting object, spreading their luxuriant branches until they
-form almost a continuous bower.
-
-Coventry sends forth her store of ragged urchins to see the London coach
-come in, and peeping Tom, in effigy, looks as inquisitive as peeping Tom
-himself could have done.
-
-_Aylesley Church_ is a very beautiful structure; and a little beyond is
-Packington Hall, the Mansion of Lord Aylesford.
-
-At Bucknell, another view of the railroad is obtained; and at length, to
-the infinite joy of hungry passengers, Birmingham, and dinner, appear in
-the distance.
-
-We drew up to the inn.  I was the only passenger who entered the dining
-room.  The coach was to stop for twenty minutes; and after waiting ten
-with the patience of a stoic, the waiter entered with a calf’s head,
-cold, over which some boiling water had been poured, by way of sauce.  I
-am fond of a mealy potatoe, and some were placed before me thoroughly
-saturated; a cauliflower, boiled in the scented waters of fifty other
-vegetables, completely scared away my appetite, and fully answered the
-purposes both of landlord and coachman.
-
-The latter at that moment popping his head in at the door, “Coach ready,
-sir, if you please!”
-
-“I’m glad of it; what’s to pay, my girl?”
-
-“Three and sixpence for dinner, sir, if you please, and threepence for
-ale.”
-
-    “Experience makes fools wise,”
-
-I exclaimed, as with an empty stomach I reseated myself upon the box.
-
-“St—st—go along! a fine town this, sir!”
-
-“Is it?”
-
-“Don’t you think so, sir?
-
-“I never was in such a half starved, hungry looking place in my life,”
-cried I, at that time feeling the cravings of nature strong within me,
-and fancying I saw the ghost of a London cook shop, flitting before my
-eyes.
-
-The road from Birmingham to Shrewsbury, if travelled by night, gives a
-stranger a glowing idea of the “fiery regions,” never mentioned to “ears
-polite.”  No description can come up to the flaming reality exhibited in
-the appearance of this country; hundreds of hills of burning coke blaze
-in all directions, and the air is scarcely endurable from the gaseous
-qualities of the smoke, which sweeps across the road in huge columns,
-almost suffocating every passenger who ventures upon that dismal tract.
-
-But increasing horrors gather round the devoted tourist as he advances
-further, on the road to Wolverhampton: thousands of indistinct forms move
-in the glare of the distant fires, or flit, like a legion of black
-devils, over the burning coals; sometimes standing in bold relief before
-the blazing chimneys of fifty or sixty steam engines, that send up bursts
-of flame glaring in all directions; and imagination might picture
-thousands of fallen angels, tossing their flaming brands above their
-heads, in frantic sport and direful revelry.
-
-Groups of grinning imps sat scattered near the road side, whose yellings
-made the welkin ring again as we passed by them.  Roaring Bacchanals
-filled the air with their drunken shouts; and withered hags held out
-their bony hands for alms, to be expended in liquid fire for their
-throats.
-
-Behind me, on the roof of the coach, were two most eccentric travellers
-who had taken their places at Birmingham for Shrewsbury.  The night was
-cold, and one, whom I discovered to be of the Emerald Isle, had, with
-national foresight, provided himself with a dacent drop of “the mountain
-dew,” just to keep the wind off his stomach; and next to him was seated a
-demure looking personage, who by his peculiar dialect proved to be a son
-of Scotia—
-
-    “Land of the mountain and the flood.”
-
-“By the honor of Erin!” exclaimed the first, “I’m not at all surprised to
-find you such a silent companion, for it’s a mighty cowld night, and your
-conversation must nat’rally freeze before its spoken.  Will you take a
-drop of comfort to thaw it, my darlint?” at the same time presenting a
-flask of potheen to the party he addressed.
-
-It must be observed that this sprig of shamrock was dressed in a blue
-jacket, with a light summer waistcoat, and a pair of duck trowsers, which
-suited admirably the mid-day ride, but were inefficient to exclude the
-cold night air.  But I suppose he went, like the generality of his
-countrymen, upon the philosophical principle, that “a light heart and a
-thin pair of breeches goes thorough the world, my brave boys.”  His
-companion was dressed in a velvet shooting jacket, thick plush trowsers,
-and waistcoat of the same, over which he wore a heavy box coat, which was
-encased in a cloth cloak of unusual dimensions: over this was a
-mackintosh cape, and his head was enveloped in a fur cap, fastened by an
-Indian silk handkerchief tied round the chin—and altogether he seemed to
-defy wind and weather.
-
-This bundle of comfort, pulling down for an instant the neckerchief,
-which was also rolled round the aperture of speech, emphatically stated
-that he had no need of the offer.
-
-“For ye ken,” said he, “that I’m a prudent mon, and never venture outside
-o’ the coach, unless I have a’ the comforts o’ the inside about me;
-there’s ne’er a mon, sir, shut up in that unhealthy box, ye may ken, but
-is caulder than mysel; and I guess, fra’ the garments on your person,
-that ye’re no quite sae warm.”
-
-“Why thin if I was, I’d be thinking myself nearer to a certain personage
-than I have any inclination to be for the next half century.”
-
-“But ye ken that extremes meet; and I think by that calculation ye may be
-nearer to the friend ye mention than I am, seeing that I am but just
-comfortable, and ye are near the freezing point.”
-
-Having uttered this sarcasm upon his shivering companion, the canny Scot
-replaced the muffler over his lips, as a signal for silence, while the
-Irishman, taking another draught from his pocket pistol, sang a stanza of
-Erin go bragh, and consoled himself with striking a light for his cigar,
-from which he sent clouds of smoke, which made our travelling convenience
-resemble, in the gloom, a steam carriage, as it flew along, with nearly
-as great rapidity; the lighted end serving, as a warming pan to his nose,
-which thus illuminated, seemed not much unlike a blue light, such as
-mariners burn for signals of distress.
-
-“I beg your pardon, Mr. Boxer,” said he, touching me on the shoulder,
-“but are you a politician?”
-
-“Why, to say the truth, sir,” I replied, “I interfere as little as
-possible with what, I conceive, wiser heads than mine are greatly
-puzzled.”
-
-“Why that’s true, sure enough,” continued he, “but may be you’ve heard of
-the—holloa!”
-
-Here he was interrupted by his bulky companion, whom a lurch of the coach
-had flung heavily upon him as he was leaning forward to reach my ear.
-The Scotchman had fallen asleep, and effectually prevented his neighbour
-from regaining his sitting posture, by the weight of his body and its
-envelopes.
-
-“Blood an’ ’ounds, man, what are ye about?” roared my friend in the thin
-inexpressibles.  “Sure I might as well be porter to Atlas himself, and
-carry his load.  Will you get up, if you please?  By the shade of
-O’Donahue, but I’ll create a connexion betwixt your nose and the lighted
-end of my cigar, if you don’t let me up.”
-
-A sonorous grunt, which drowned the rattle of the coach wheels, was the
-only reply to this appeal, and Paddy being unacquainted with the
-language, immediately put his threat into execution.  I have said before
-it was a cold night, and Sandy, who naturally enough started, at the
-application of the cigar to his proboscis, from his ideal world to a
-dreamy consciousness of his real situation, placing his hand on the
-injured part, exclaimed, still half bewildered, “Eh! that’s vera true,
-indeed.  It’s a cauld night, and I verily believe that my nose is
-frost-bitten.  I maun pit t’other shawl round it;” saying which he
-dragged one from his pocket, and was completely enveloped, apparently to
-suffocation.
-
-“Why then, I’ve heard of salamanders, but Scotland must be mighty cauld
-since you left it,” said my thinly clad fellow traveller, when a half
-smothered voice spoke through the rolls of shawls and silk handkerchiefs.
-“Do you find yoursel’ sae hot in my company?”
-
-The castinet-like sounds of the Irishman’s teeth was the only reply to
-this question, and silence ensued.
-
-“What column is that we are approaching, coachman?”
-
-“Why that, sir, is a pillar.”
-
-“Thank ye; but what was it placed there for?”
-
-“Why, sir, it was put there by subscription, as a compliment to Lord
-Hill.”
-
-“Oh, indeed!”
-
-The column is of the Doric order, rising from a base.  The angles are
-ornamented with lions couchant, and the height of the pillar is 132 feet;
-upon its summit was placed a figure which old Push-along assured me was a
-fine likeness of old Rowley; it was erected in 1814.
-
-“Blow the horn, Ned, will you!”  And now, rattling over stones, through
-streets crowded with youthful idlers assembled to catch a sight of the
-new comers, we rapidly approached the inn.  In a moment more we were at
-the gate of the Lion.
-
-A good supper and a comfortable bed made amends for the bad dinner and
-the cold ride, and in the morning I arose much refreshed, and sallied
-forth to view the town.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER II.
-
-
-Walk to Montford Bridge—The Severn—An agreeable companion—Delights of a
-Tourist—Histrionic Ambition—Wittington—The Castle—The Church—Curious
-Epitaphs.
-
-    “Oh Wittington, among thy towers
-    Pleas’d did my early childhood stray,
-    Bask’d on thy walls in sunny hours
-    And pull’d thy moss and pluck’d thy flowers
-    Full many a truant day.”
-
-                                                             FITZ-GWARINE.
-
-AFTER breakfasting at the inn, I, like the honorable Dick Dowlass, with
-my wardrobe on my back, and a light heart, proceeded on the road to
-Chirk.
-
-The Severn, to the right, winded beautifully towards the ancient town I
-left behind.  Bees hummed—birds sang—and blossoms sent forth their
-fragrance to delight the traveller as he gaily trudged “the footpath
-way.”  Cheerfulness was above, beneath, around me, and in my heart.  I
-paused upon the bridge at Montford, to take a lingering farewell of the
-sweet flowing Severn, its wooded banks and meadows gay; and was about to
-commence a sublime soliloquy, when I was accosted by an elderly personage
-in a straw hat, fustian shooting coat, knee-breeches, gaiters and shoes.
-He had a stout cudgel in his hand, and a knapsack, more capacious than
-mine, strapped across his shoulders.  He appeared to be about fifty-five
-years of age, and being furnished like myself, it struck me that a
-passing traveller might naturally enough take us for father and son.
-
-Fortunately we were both pursuing the same route, and a desultory
-dialogue commenced with the never failing observation:
-
-“A fine morning, sir.”
-
-“Very.”
-
-“A noble river this, sir?”
-
-“Beautiful.”
-
-“A great admirer of the charms of nature, I presume, sir?”
-
-“An enthusiastic one.”
-
-“You’re for the Welsh vales, I suppose?”
-
-“And mountains high!” I exclaimed, warming to my loquacious companion.
-
-    “In the Welsh vales ’mid mountains high,”
-
-sang he, in a hearty, round-toned voice, with which I chimed in, and we
-were the best friends, on a sudden.
-
-There certainly is no society so interesting as that picked up by the
-tourist, who leaves with contempt the starched formalities of a great
-city behind him, and walks forth, unencumbered by care, to enjoy the
-society of mankind in its varied and unsophisticated nature.  Every
-person we meet affords us information and delight; for a kindred spirit
-animates almost every individual whom you may chance to encounter in
-countries remarkable for beauties of scenery, and especially in a region
-like North Wales, where inns of the best kind are situated at the most
-convenient points, and the foot passenger is treated with as much respect
-as a lord in his carriage with four post horses.  The landlords of inns
-here, think that a man may make the proper use of his legs without being
-a beggar; and that the costume of a pedestrian may cover the form of a
-gentleman.  And this philanthropic conception contributes to form that
-happy combination, civil hosts and merry travellers.
-
-There is no want of society, nor any difficulty in selecting that with
-which you are best pleased, for every evening brings in fresh comers from
-various quarters to the different places of rest and refreshment.  The
-exchange of information respecting routes, the different adventures of
-the day, the peculiar feelings displayed in their recital, and
-countenances lit up with pleasure, give a degree of animation to the
-evening, never to be equalled in the brilliant drawing-room, the blaze of
-which seems to put out the eyes of reason,
-
-    “And men are—what they name not to themselves,
-    And trust not to each other.”
-
-I soon discovered that my companion was a traveller of no common
-information; that he was a collector of legends, an antiquarian, and a
-geologist; and congratulated myself upon meeting with one who, as he gave
-me to understand, was intimately acquainted with a variety of
-circumstances, not generally known, which had taken place in “days of
-yore,” upon the very ground we were about to traverse, and which he had
-frequently visited before.
-
-He had been an actor in his youth, and as the scenery between Mountford
-Bridge and the village of Wittington has little to engage the attention,
-I will here relate a portion of his early history, with which he amused
-me during our journey.
-
-
-
-HISTRIONIC AMBITION.
-
-
-It was a foggy morning when Triptolemus,—for so I shall designate my new
-acquaintance,—who had unfortunately been deeply bitten by a mad actor,
-arose, feverish from his sleepless pillow, to awaken the cocks of the
-surrounding neighbourhood with the loud rattle of his histrionic tongue.
-He had, with some difficulty, prevailed upon the manager of the theatre
-to permit him to make his appearance on the stage, and the character
-selected for his attempt was Richmond—the gallant Richmond!
-
-In the centre of the filthy town of — stands an ancient castle, situated
-upon a lofty hill, which is now turned into a county jail.  There was
-around it formerly a deep moat, which having for many years been dried
-up, is now converted into pleasure gardens for the corporation.  From the
-top of the hill there was, at this time, an opening, much like a trap
-door, where commenced a descent by winding steps, leading to the gardens
-beneath, and to some gates made in the iron railings that encompassed the
-moat upon the other side.
-
-Upon the summit of the hill, Triptolemus walked with all the dignity of
-an English baron.  The ancient fortress, that frowned above him, gave
-additional fire to his excited imagination; and, as he spoke of knights
-and fellows in arms, and mused of war, banners, and crop ear’d steeds,
-the present peaceful times were dead to him, and nothing lived within his
-gallant thoughts but those whose bones have long since whitened in the
-dust.
-
-Triptolemus had walked round, and round again, about the distance of half
-a mile, spouting Shakespeare to “the unconscious wind,” when, as he was
-about to take “round the third,” instead of looking at the earth, his
-inspired glance was directed to the sky; and at the instant he exclaimed,
-“thus far into the bowels of the land,” he vanished into the earth
-through the before mentioned trap door! and awakening from his surprize,
-he found himself half smothered in a bed of manure, at the bottom of the
-steps.—When he had in some degree recovered from his alarm, and
-ascertained that his person had escaped injury, his first reflection was
-upon the fall of Lucifer,
-
-    “From night to morn—from morn to dewy eve,
-    A summer’s day!”
-
-He then looked round him and fancied himself in Johnson’s happy valley,
-himself the prince, and, like him, discontented with his lot, when he was
-suddenly aroused to a sense of his real situation by the pointed
-application of a pitchfork, unceremoniously handled by a sturdy boor, who
-saluted him with, “Where the devil didst thee come from?”  His indignant
-spirit now gave vent to its uncontrollable fury, in a torrent of blank
-verse!  He felt that, like Hamlet, he could
-
-             “Do such deeds
-    As hell itself would quake to look upon.”
-
-But, like Posthumous, he was doubtful which to select.  His soul was in
-arms!—and the thrice valiant embryo Richmond exclaimed,
-
-    “Thrice is he arm’d that hath his quarrel just;
-    And he but naked, tho’ lock’d up in steel,
-    Whose conscience with injustice is corrupted.”
-
-“I fell into this damned place through your neglect in leaving the trap
-door open, you bloody and devouring boar,”—eyeing him all the while with
-a glance that seemed to say, “If I thought you wholesome, I’d turn
-cannibal.”
-
-The bumkin, however, took no further notice of it than to assure him, if
-he did not presently take to his heels, he would toss him out on the
-prongs of his fork.
-
-O! what a field for fancy did this threat open to his susceptible mind!
-The tattered hat of the unceremonious gardener was converted into a
-coronet of snakes that reared their threatening crests and hissed
-furiously at the astonished hero.  His ruddy face assumed the Gorgon’s
-look, turning him almost into stone.  The weapon in his hand grew fiery
-red, and for a foot there seemed a cloven hoof.
-
-An attempted application of the torturing steel however, gave motion to
-his limbs;—away he scampered up the steep ascent, not daring to turn a
-solitary glance behind, until he reached the spot from whence he fell.
-
-This accident conjured up a train of reflections upon the vanity of human
-wishes!  “Alas!” exclaimed he, “it is but a few minutes since I fancied
-myself a hero at the head of a victorious army, before which thousands
-would turn and fly, or grimly bite the dust; and now I find myself a
-wretched thing! routed by a base born hind with a muck fork in his hand!
-Oh! vile disgrace!  I only wish that fellow may see me on the boards
-to-morrow night—I’ll frown him into a liquid.”
-
-Upon the night of this eventful morning the stage-struck Triptolemus had
-very unquiet dreams; his head was filled, he said, with a chaotic mass of
-indistinct and indescribable objects.  The last thought he had while
-awake was how he should look when dressed as the gallant Richmond;—and
-having settled that point to his own satisfaction, he resigned himself to
-
-    “Sweet Nature’s second course.”
-
-He waves aloft his glittering steel—he spurs his coal black charger to
-the field.—Forward! he cries—and the hostile ranks advance in terrible
-array, inspired by their heroic leader!  All then becomes hubbub, turmoil
-and confusion, higglety pigglety, up and down, slash away work.  He meets
-the tyrant king—fiercely they struggle for the mastery—slap bang go their
-battle axes; when suddenly a number of shadowy forms, with blood-red
-cabbage-heads, encircle the enfuriated pair, yelling and dancing at the
-white-rose king;—the gallant Richmond staggers beneath the prowess of his
-vigorous opponent, and half believes the field is lost, when through the
-spectre group a headless horseman breaks with furious speed.—’Tis
-Buckingham!—he waves his gory head aloft in his red hand, and as Tydides
-whirled the fragment of a rock upon his foe, even with such fury flung
-the shade his head, full upon the visage of his fated Richard;—he
-falls—the shadows vanish with loud cries of joy! when suddenly a dreadful
-blow is dealt upon the temples of the conquering Richmond;—the chains of
-sleep are broken, and Triptolemus lies stretched upon the floor.
-
-He arose confused; he pondered upon his dream, rubbed his bruised
-forehead, and began conclusions from the visions of the night.  These
-proving satisfactory, he descended to the breakfast parlour, inwardly
-exclaiming,
-
-    “May good digestion wait on appetite.”
-
-The rehearsal in the morning gave additional confidence, the manager
-having pronounced it a very promising specimen of his ability.
-
-Night came—and he was at his post three hours before his presence would
-be required upon the stage.  His hair, of which he had a great profusion,
-was twisted into innumerable curls by a one-eyed frizzeur who received a
-payment of twelve pence per night from the manager for decorating the
-heads of his talented performers; his limbs were cased in the warlike
-habiliments of the 15th century, which (with the trifling inconvenience,
-occasioned by their being made for a person of nearly double his
-dimensions some twenty years before, and the few dilapidations they had
-received from the numberless falls, thwacks, rents, etc. during their
-long and faithful servitude) gave him the appearance of a warrior of some
-personal endowments.  The helmet was peculiarly formed, resembling that
-worn in the 14th century; for this appendage to the son of Mars had been
-neglected until the very last moment, when it was supposed to be
-impossible to procure one; but Triptolemus, ever fertile in resources,
-seized upon a shining tin saucepan, in which the Duke of Buckingham had
-brought some barley water to the theatre for the purpose of clearing his
-voice, emptied its contents, and having divested it of its handle, made
-of it an admirable completion to his costume.  At the end of the first
-act, he walked, with all the self possession of a veteran stager, into an
-apartment called the green-room, but which exhibited a clear face of
-white-wash, emblematic of those who frequented its chaste precincts.  It
-was furnished with chairs, stools, and a huge family sofa, evidently the
-work of the “olden time.”  This seemed a seat suited to Triptolemus,
-puffed out as he was with the pride of his appearance; but unfortunately
-the light comedian, when playing the part of Doricourt, fell so heavily
-upon it, in the mad scene, that he made a fatal breach in the bottom,
-which as yet had not undergone a repair.  King Henry the sixth (a short,
-stout, pompous man, who never moved but one arm in acting, and that with
-the exact motion of a pump handle) was seated on one side of the fire
-place, in an altitude of deep thought.  Triptolemus remembered his dream,
-and was astonished at the close resemblance between the red cabbage head
-of the shadow and the rubicund visage of the portly personage in the
-chimney corner.  His surprise was the greater for that he had not met
-this gentleman at the rehearsal, he having sent an apology for his
-absence, being hotly engaged (as he termed it) in _making his benefit_,
-i.e. paying his respects to the different taverns in the town, where his
-merry associates congregated to drink porter, smoke tobacco, and
-distribute as many tickets as an insinuating address and consummate
-assurance would enable them to dispose of amongst their boon companions.
-
-The fourth act is over; and Triptolemus experiences a strange sensation
-rising from the bottom of his abdomen and gradually spreading itself over
-his whole body!—he feels less valiant than when first he donned the
-shining helmet (alias saucepan) and fastened the glittering falchion to
-his mailed side.  Ting a ring ting! goes the prompter’s bell!
-Triptolemus was trembling at his post.  The music ceases—the curtain
-rises—the martial music is played loudly behind the scenes, and the
-audience with breathless anxiety await the entrance of the dauntless
-hero, the brave Earl of Richmond.
-
-The trumpeters have almost split their cheeks,—the troops march on, two
-and two—the Earl of Oxford then advances, next Sir James Blunt, and then
-Sir Walter Herbert.  Triptolemus who had been advised to appear last, and
-with a rush to “take the natives by surprise,” as it is termed in
-theatrical phraseology, now darted forward to the footlights, “swift as
-an arrow from the Tartar bow.”  The applause was deafening, and made him
-fancy that the gods were at war above him; nor was he much out in his
-conceit, for a chimney sweeper who had edged himself into the centre of
-the gallery at that moment, caused such a commotion amongst the
-goddesses, that they assisted, with their screams, the general uproar,
-and shouts and cat calls “shook the pond’rous roof.”  This state of
-commotion was too violent to last, and at length silence was obtained,
-and the hero commenced—
-
-    “Thus far into the bowels of the land—”
-
-Here the figure of the uncivil gardener met his eyes, seated in the front
-row of the pit, and grinning like a Scotch terrier with a hair-lip.  He
-made a full stop at this apparition!  “Have we marched on,” came the word
-from the prompter—“Have we marched on,”—echoed Oxford.  But all was mist
-before Richmond’s eyes, indignation was in his heart and silence upon his
-tongue.  Unable to utter a word more, with a flourish of his truncheon he
-made a furious exit.  “Have we marched off,” said the gallant Blunt—and
-stalked off with the whole army (six in number) after his heroic leader.
-The scene changed for Richard’s entrance.—Shame and fury battledoor’d our
-hero about with unmerciful rapidity behind the scenes!  He split his
-wooden truncheon upon the scull of an unlucky lamplighter who stood in
-his way, and then the call boy’s awful voice was heard bidding him
-prepare for his second scene.  This he managed to get through tolerably
-well, taking especial care to avoid another glance at the gardener’s
-fatal countenance.
-
-All went on smoothly enough, until the scene where Richard rushes on the
-stage in the midst of alarums, crying out.  “What ho! young Richmond ho!”
-Here, as ill luck would have it, Richmond could not find his _fighting
-sword_, and his confusion was so great, when Richard again roared out,
-“’Tis Richard calls!” Richmond rebellowed from behind the scenes, “Call
-and be d—d,” thinking the actor was taking an unwarrantable liberty in
-calling for him before so many people in such an authoritative style.
-
-_Richard_.  “I say come forth, and singly face me.”
-
-_Richmond_, (behind) “What the devil’s the use of my coming, when I can’t
-find my sword?”
-
-At length, the combatants met, Richmond having picked up a powerful
-weapon, instead of the short, blunt and harmless sword intended for the
-encounter.  It was keen, long, and pointed, like a lancet—a terrible
-weapon in unpractised hands.
-
-_Richard_.  “Do you remember the cuts?” (in an undertone, with doubting
-fear).
-
-_Richmond_.  “Oh, d—n the cuts!” at the same time dealing a blow that
-laid open the shin of the crook backed tyrant, who, thinking it better to
-die at once in jest, than to be killed outright in earnest, fell down
-exclaiming, “Perdition catch thy arm! you’ve cut my leg open!”
-
-_Richmond_.  “Upon my soul, I could’nt help it!”
-
-_Richard_.  “But oh—! the vast renown thou hast acquired—”
-
-This was too much for the audience to bear—“their visible muscles
-unmasterly grew,” and the champions were mutually discomposed.
-
-_Richmond_.  “What the devil are they laughing at?”
-
-_Richard_.  “At you to be sure, ‘in conquering Richard.’”
-
-Here another burst of merriment broke from the spectators, and
-Triptolemus, turning his head, to check, with a high tragedy look, their
-ill timed mirth, beheld, to his horror and dismay, the inveterate
-gardener standing upon the front bench of the pit, waving his arms like
-the sails of a windmill, and who no sooner caught a full view of his
-countenance than he roared out, “I’m blest if it bea’nt he that I turned
-up wi’ my pitch fork out of the muck heap!”
-
-“All’s over!” exclaimed Richard, and gave up the ghost, with his back
-turned to the audience, which created a fresh peal of laughter, groans
-and hisses.  Richmond, shocked at the un-Cesarian position of the
-monarch, strove to obtain silence, while he spoke the tag, by turning him
-over with his face to the footlights—which he did with his foot, placing
-Richard’s nose within half an inch of the burning oil, who grinned his
-disapprobation of such usage, till the audience shrieked with mirth.
-
-“Ring down the curtain, for God’s sake!” shrieked the manager.
-
-“Stop till I’ve spoken the tag!” cried Richmond.
-
-“Ring down for the sake of my nose,” bawled the corpse.  Ting a ring
-ting! went the prompter’s bell, and down fell the curtain, leaving one
-half of Richard’s body in view of the laughter-weeping spectators, which
-was at last dragged by the heels from their sight by the indignant
-Richmond, vowing, he never would again act with so diabolical a
-_Richard_.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-This story, which amused me exceedingly, was during the recital often
-interrupted by my hearty bursts of laughter, and beguiled the time
-admirably, until we arrived at a miserable place called _New Inn_, where
-we refreshed ourselves with a glass of ale, and proceeded on our journey.
-
-Branching off from the Oswestry road, to the right, we pursued our way to
-Wittington, beguiling the time with anecdote and song, light hearts and
-heels carrying us along the road like things of air.  Nothing worthy of
-notice took place until we reached the village of Wittington, and there
-the first objects that attracted our mutual attention, were two brick
-houses, perfectly plain in their exterior, upon the front of the first of
-which was written, in prodigious characters, _Search the Scriptures_, and
-upon the second, _Remember thou keep holy the Sabbath day_, with
-underneath, _Morrison’s pills sold here_.
-
-The village is beautifully intersected with trees, and the houses are
-examples of neatness and simplicity.  The people look cheerful and
-contented; and every shrub or flower which here profusely expands, seems
-proudly to rejoice and flourish in this charming retreat.
-
-A walk through this village will make the tourist thoroughly acquainted,
-in his own belief, with the persons who inhabit it, although he never
-heard the history of one of them, from the rector to the tinker.  The
-first portrait that rises in his imagination is the venerable curate,
-with contentment beaming in his mild eyes, his silver locks flowing over
-his well-brushed thread-bare coat, with snow-white neck-cloth, mended
-small clothes, black hose and polished shoes, visiting the cottage of
-some invalid—a lovely girl, scarce sixteen, the rose of the village, who
-had long been stretched upon a bed of sickness, but now blessed with
-returning health, seated at the door, the fresh evening air playing with
-her fair locks, the woodbine clustering over her head, a slight tinge of
-vermilion spreading on her cheeks, her eyes upraised in pious gratitude
-to heaven, and to him who prayed beside her, and for her, morning and
-evening, and who now with grateful heart holds up his hands to the
-Creator, in thankfulness for her convalescence.
-
-The next object is the village surgeon; a busy, merry, bustling, prying,
-talkative, little gentleman, who amuses one patient with all the scandal
-he has been able to pick up about another; but, notwithstanding, a most
-important person, and people feign illness for the gratification his
-visits communicate; constant in his morning calls from house to house, he
-continues to pick up all the flying rumours of the day; and at night is,
-of course, the object looked up to, in all parties, as the oracle, in
-whom all the secrets of the village are deposited, while he is cautious
-not to commit himself, by imprudent exposures.
-
-Then comes the lawyer, with snuff-coloured riding coat with brass
-buttons, top-booted, and spurred, who does very well for himself, by
-_doing_ his neighbours in a professional way.
-
-Then come the ladies, who are of course all nature, no art, sweetness,
-simplicity, and all that; but as I am not going to write a volume upon
-rural life, I will just give a short description of
-
-                              WITTINGTON CASTLE.
-
-    “In ancient days, of high renown,
-    Not always did yon castle frown
-       With ivy crested brow;
-    Nor were its walls with moss embrowned,
-    Nor hung the lanky weeds around
-       That fringe its ruins now.”
-
-                                                             FITZ-GWARINE.
-
-In the year 843, when Roderick the Great was King of Wales, a British
-noble, named Ynyr ap Cadfarch, built the Castle of Wittington.  He was
-succeeded by his son Tudor Trevor, whose descendants possessed it for
-many generations; and many families at this day trace their origin to
-him.
-
-At the Conquest, Wittington became the property of Pain Peveril, who
-dying without issue, it was seized by Roger, Earl of Shrewsbury, and
-passed into the hands of Hugh, his son, who was succeeded by his brother
-Robert; but he being defeated by Henry I, the castle was restored to the
-Peverils, in the person of Sir William Peveril, who was a great warrior,
-and is said to have miraculously recovered from a (supposed) _mortal
-wound_ by eating the shield of a wild boar.  He had a daughter named
-Mellet, whose exceeding beauty attracted many suitors; but, being of
-Amazonian mind, she declared she would marry none but the knight who
-proved himself best and bravest in the field.  Her father published this
-declaration, and promised the Castle of Wittington as her dower.  The
-trial took place at the Peak in Derbyshire, and Guarine de Metz, who had
-a shield of silver, and a peacock crest, overcame all his rivals, and
-obtained the beautiful Mellet.  His posterity, for nine generations,
-assumed the name of Fulk, a race of heroes who performed extraordinary
-feats of arms, and for a full account of which the reader is referred to
-the history of Wittington, a little book of forty-one pages, by William
-Davies, L.M.W.S., Head Master of Caernarven School.
-
-The ninth, and last Fulk Fitz Gwarine, died here in his minority, in the
-reign of Henry IV, and his sister Elizabeth, the heiress to the estates,
-married Richard Hankfdd, who left his possessions to his only daughter
-Thomasine, who married Sir William Bourchire, brother to Henry, the first
-Earl of Essex; and the title of Lord Fitz Warine was given to Sir
-William, in consequence of his marriage.
-
-John, the third in descent from him, exchanged Wittington with Henry VIII
-for other landed property.  This John was the first Earl of Bath, and his
-family retained the name of Fitz-Warren until the race became extinct,
-which took place at the death of Henry, the fifth Earl of Bath.  This
-place was presented by Elizabeth, to Henry Grey Duke of Suffolk, who
-fortified it in consequence of several crimes imputed to him by the bigot
-Mary, who granted it to Fitz-Alan, the last Earl of Arundel, who
-mortgaged it to a number of London citizens, and William Albany, the
-chief amongst them was appointed sole possessor of it, and by the
-marriage of whose grand daughter it fell into the hands of Thomas Lloyd
-Aston Esq. in whose family it now remains.
-
-The castle underwent fortification soon after its original establishment;
-and must have been alternately in the hands of the Welsh and Saxons in
-these wars.  It is well supplied with spring water, and the moats, and
-entrenchments surrounding the castle are still discernible.  The keep was
-fortified with five round towers, each 40 feet in diameter and 100 in
-height, the walls being 12 feet in thickness.—All are now in ruins.
-
-In 1809, a well was discovered in the Keep, at the bottom of which was
-found a pair of iron fetters for the legs, and a jug, stags’ heads,
-swords, a head curiously carved, and a number of richly gilt glass
-bottles.  In the trenches there are growing some very fine tall wych
-trees.  The castle is situated in the midst of fertile meadows; and a
-rapid stream, which a mile above takes a subterranean course, here breaks
-into light again, amidst fringing poplars, and entering the moat,
-encompasses the walls, which are richly festooned with ivy, and adorned
-with wild flowers and woodbines.  It there enters the Perry, in the
-meadows below, which were formerly an extensive lake, and the ancient
-fosses and entrenchments may be traced to where the lake terminated, at a
-surprising distance westward, beyond the castle.
-
-The church is a rectory, and was originally designed as a chapel to the
-castle.  It is dedicated to St. John the Baptist.  The body of the church
-was rebuilt in 1806, and in the register are the following curious
-epitaphs:
-
-                             March 13, 1766, died
-                                THOMAS EVANS,
-                           Parish Clerke, Aged 72.
-
-    Old Stanhold’s lines or Vicar of Bray.
-    Which he tuned best, ’twas hard to say.
-
-                                SAMUEL PEATE,
-                          Of Wittington Castle, died
-                                   Aged 84.
-
-    Here lies Governor Peate,
-    Whom no man did hate.
-    At the age of fourscore,
-    And four years more.
-    He pretended to wrestle
-    With Death for his castle,
-    But was soon out of breath,
-    And surrendered to Death,
-    Who away did him take
-    At the eve of our wake,
-    One morn about seven,
-    To keep wake in Heaven.
-
-                               ANDREW WILLIAMS
-                                     was
-                   Born A.D 1692, and died April 18, 1776.
-                                   Aged 84.
-                         Of which time he lived under
-                  The Aston family, as decoy man, 60 years.
-
-    Here lies the decoy man, who lived like an otter,
-    Dividing his time betwixt land and water.
-    His hide he oft soaked in the waters of Perry,
-    Whilst Aston old beer his spirits kept cherry.
-    Amphibious his trim, death was puzzled they say
-    How to dust to reduce such well moistened clay,
-    So death turned decoy man, and decoyed him to land,
-    Where he fixed his abode till quite dried to the hand.
-    He then found him fitting for crumbling to dust,
-    So here he lies mouldering, as you and I must.
-
-In this lovely village, we put up at a small inn, the Crown, to take
-luncheon, which was served with much civility—cold meat, a cream salad,
-and a capital Cheshire cheese, with the very best of Shropshire ale.  The
-name of the host I have forgotten, but it is the first inn on the left on
-entering the village from Shrewsbury.  It has a delightful garden
-attached to it, with grottos and arbours; roses and woodbines distribute
-their fragrance in prodigal gratuity, and the _tout ensemble_ gives an
-admirable idea of fairy land.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER III.
-
-
-Chirk—The Aqueduct—The Deserted, a legend—Description of Chirk
-Castle—Sketch—The Park—Legend of the enchanted Stag—The Vale of
-Llangollen—Account of the Aqueduct called Pont-y-Cyssyltau—Stanzas for
-music—Llangollen—The Hand in Hand—A view of the village.
-
-       “In Cambria’s noon of story,
-       Ere bright she set in glory,
-    The brave and great in princely state
-       All hail’d Chirk Castle walls.
-       With splendid arms returning,
-       The flaring moonbeams burning,
-    Mid armour’s clang the clarions rang,
-       And searched the sounding halls.”
-
-                                              SONG BY F. M. DOVASTON, A.M.
-
-A PLEASANT walk of six miles brought us to Chirk; agreeably situated upon
-the northern bank of the river Ceriog, which divides England from Wales.
-The village church is dedicated to St. Mary, and is an impropriation
-belonging to Valle Crucis Abbey, and contains some monuments erected to
-the memory of the members of the Chirk families.  The most interesting is
-that of the famous Sir Thomas Myddleton.  The church-yard is planted with
-yew trees, and the Hand Inn is a very comfortable house of entertainment.
-
-The aqueduct is the great _lion_ of this place; consisting of ten arches,
-the piers of which are sixty-five feet high.  The Ellesmere canal is
-continued across the valley by this beautiful specimen of art, then
-enters a tunnel 220 yards long; emerging from which it proceeds on its
-course through the parish, and then enters another tunnel, which having
-traversed, its waters are transported over the vale of the Dee by the
-stupendous aqueduct of Pont-y-Cysylltau.  The village of Chirk is seven
-miles from Llangollen, and five from Oswestry, from Knaton six, and from
-London 171.
-
-“Upon this spot,” said my amusing companion, “a legend was repeated to
-me, which I thought rather amusing; and, as you say you are a collector
-of strange stories, I will relate it to you as we pass along, with as
-much accuracy as my memory will permit.”
-
-
-
-THE DESERTED.
-
-
-Mary Griffith was a tall, raw-boned, bouncing girl, whose skin had felt
-the influence of nineteen summers: with red ropy hair, which fell in
-mop-like luxuriance about her face and back, partially hiding two
-gooseberry eyes, that looked, or seemed to look, in opposite directions.
-Roger ap Morgan was a stout, sturdy, hard-working peasant: and once,
-while under the influence of his master’s strong harvest ale, bestowed on
-Mary such tender melting words, as had never before been addressed to her
-beauty, and which her unaccustomed ear drank with astonishment and
-delight.  She greedily banqueted on the honey of his tongue, and in short
-was never so pleased in her life before.
-
-It was remarked, that from this night Mary and Roger were more intimate
-than ever; and they were therefore looked upon as a couple shortly to be
-united in the bands of matrimony.
-
-Mary’s charms, however, were not of a nature to be unappreciated by
-others; and Roger’s friends were exceedingly forward in praising her
-various perfections, and more especially the beauty of her eyes and face,
-and the silky softness of her auburn hair, three fibres of which were
-sufficient to have made an exceeding good twine of tolerable strength.
-
-Roger bore all these bursts of admiration without the slightest tinge of
-jealousy, and even sometimes, with a good humoured laugh, joined in the
-jests of his companions.  But there is such a thing as over fondness in
-adoring woman: and Roger began to discover, that if Mary would only love
-him half as much as she did, he might perhaps have a far greater liking
-for her than he had; but unfortunately Mary knew no measure in her love.
-She vowed he should marry her; Roger swore heartily he would not.  At
-length, it became apparent that Mary had yielded up not only her heart
-but her honour, also, to the too insidious and fascinating Roger.  His
-ingratitude, in refusing to keep his word, and make an honest woman of
-her, sank deep into her heart.  She resolved, however, not to let him off
-so easily; and determined, if he persisted in denying his person, she
-would at least have some of his goods and chattels.
-
-At this period, a number of baronial laws, although dormant, might still
-be enforced on occasion, and amongst them was one which furnished Mary
-with a promising prospect of recompense.  It decreed, that in cases of
-seduction, the injured fair, on making application to the presiding
-magistrate, was entitled to remuneration by submitting to the following
-ordeal:—The tail of a three years old bull, the property of the seducer,
-being well shaven, greased and introduced through a wicker door, if the
-applicant could, by so treacherous a handle, detain the animal for a
-certain period with both hands, while two men goaded it to escape, it
-became hers, by right of conquest, in satisfaction for her lost virtue;
-and, in case of failure, she forfeited all further claim, and was
-rewarded for her attempt with so much of the grease and soap as remained
-in her hands.
-
-Women know no medium in the master-passion: “Where most they love, there
-most they hate when slighted:”—and so with Molly.  All nature seemed to
-change: the beautiful valley no longer heard the soft murmurings of
-Roger’s “love breathed vows;” the waters of the Ceriog flowed on without
-a rival sound; and Molly vowed vengeance amid their peaceful banks, where
-once she swore eternal love and constancy.
-
-One morning after a long expostulation, with her inconstant, she summoned
-him before the magistrate of the district, and, accompanied by her
-friends, demanded the ordeal, which was the right, from time immemorial,
-of the victims of seduction and desertion.  The magistrate, being a lover
-of old laws and customs, and also somewhat of a humorist, readily acceded
-to her wishes, and the following morning was appointed for the
-accomplishment of her vengeance, verifying the Welsh proverb—“Gnawd
-rhygas wedi rhysere.”  Common is extreme hate after extreme fondness.
-
-This was woful intelligence for Roger, whose farming stock consisted of
-an only cow, which was sentenced to be substituted for the _bull_, which
-the original act specified should be liable to confiscation.  This cow
-was the chief source of his livelihood; her butter furnished him with the
-means of procuring clothes, and other necessaries, and the skimmed milk,
-a pleasant beverage to wash down his vegetable fare—for animal food was a
-stranger to the table of Roger, as it was indeed to almost all the
-peasantry of the country, except upon days of rejoicing, viz. marriages
-and funerals, when friends and relations clubbed together to furnish a
-sumptuous meal for the assembled guests.  Still, however, he resolved to
-hazard this severe loss, rather than be encumbered with a wife, whose
-industry and affection were but a poor compensation for the defects of
-her person and conversation.
-
-On the following day, the peaceful inhabitants of this lovely spot were
-startled from their various occupations by a loud shout which issued from
-the thick woods of the vale, and then
-
-    “There rose so wild a yell
-    From out yon dark and hollow dell,
-    As all the fiends from heaven that fell
-    Had pealed the banner cry of hell.”
-
-The clamour was raised by the revilings of Roger’s friends against Mary,
-and Mary’s friends against Roger, as the object of interest (Roger’s cow)
-approached the dwelling of the deceived and neglected fair one, who
-mounted astride upon its back, turned her fierce glances or benignant
-smiles, upon her enemies or friends, as they alternately hooted and
-hurrahed her.
-
-Mary’s mother, an ancient gammer, whose sun-tanned skin seemed, as
-Shakspeare has it, capable of
-
-    “Keeping out water a long while,”
-
-armed with a branch of tough ash, was urging the progress of the beast,
-and at every push she made, a yell of indignation burst from the opposite
-party, which was answered by a shout of exultation from the friends of
-Mary.  At length the barber, one Gryffyd, was called on to lend his aid,
-which he did, in a masterly manner by lathering, and shaving the beast’s
-tail of every hair that adorned it, from the insertion to the tuft, and
-afterwards greasing and soaping it thoroughly.  Mary eyed it, meanwhile,
-as though she longed to convert it into soup.
-
-These preparations being completed, Mary addressed her false-hearted
-swain, and even then, generously offered to give up the chance if he
-would repent and make her an honest woman.  This noble proposition
-excited murmurs of applause.  But all in vain,—Roger remained inexorable.
-
-“Then may I never be married,” cried she, “if ever you take your cow home
-again!”
-
-“That’s yet to be tried,” cried Roger.
-
-Molly then bared her brawny arms, and held up her ten fingers—as much as
-to say, “Let her escape my grip if she can!”—and, with a countenance
-flashing anger and resolution, she took her station at the wicket,
-“screwed up to the sticking point,” and resolved to “stand the hazard of
-the die.”
-
-With the grasp of a vice, she seized the pendant ornament; and now it was
-pull cow, pull Molly!—for the two sturdy brothers of Roger belaboured the
-animal most unmercifully.
-
-“Hold your own!” shrieked Mary’s mother.
-
-“Go it, you old devil!” cried the brothers of Roger, as they thrashed and
-goaded the poor cow.  Still with heroic firmness Mary kept her hold.
-
-    “But who can rule the uncertain chance of war?”
-
-The period of detention had nearly arrived;—half a minute more, and Mary
-would be victorious—her vengeance complete—and Roger quite undone!—when
-lo! the tortured animal leaped suddenly from the wicket—and Mary,
-wretched Mary!—fell upon her brawny back, with the cow’s tail extended in
-her hands!—’Twas all the spoil her valiant attempt had left her!—Twisting
-and capering, the beast was seen speeding its way to Roger’s well known
-home;—and
-
-    “Thus was she (poor Molly)!
-    Of cow, of virtue, everything, bereft.”
-
-It was rumoured that foul play had been committed by Roger’s brothers;
-and that a stick, with a sharp instrument at the end of it, had caused
-the catastrophe;—but, as there was no means of ascertaining the fact, the
-affair dropped.
-
-A rustic bard, who had been hospitably received in Mary’s dwelling,
-presented to her the following Lament, which he composed, in gratitude,
-for her consolation.
-
-                                   LAMENT.
-
-    Oh mournful day! oh mournful day!
-    Base Roger’s cow has run away,
-    And left poor Molly to bewail
-    The sorrows she cannot _re-tail_.
-
-    The grateful cabbage, greens, and leek
-    Her hands have reared, could they but speak,
-    Would thus hold converse with the ground,
-    Which daily her attention found.
-
-    “Oh mother earth, how hard you get,
-    Since Molly’s left to pine and fret;
-    You drain our tops, our bottoms pinch,
-    We cannot grow another inch!
-
-    “Your bed, so lately soft and warm,
-    To stony hardness you transform;
-    If ’tis for Molly this you do,
-    Oh think of leek and cabbage too!”
-
-    “My children,” then said mother earth,
-    “I ever loved ye from your birth;
-    But know that I, as well as you,
-    Am doomed to pine and suffer too.
-
-    “And if your bottoms feel uneasy,
-    ’Tis not from want of will to please ye;
-    And if your green tops droop and pine,
-    ’Tis not from any fault of mine.
-
-    “For I am thirsting for a sup,
-    And Molly never stirs me up.
-    Forsaken love hath made her sore—
-    She cultivates the ground no more!”
-
-    Oh mournful day! oh mournful day!
-    Base Roger’s cow has run away,
-    And left poor Molly to bewail
-    The sorrows she cannot _re-tail_!
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-After proceeding about a mile and a half on the Llangollen road, we
-turned off, to the left, up a lane, which led us to the noble domain of
-Mrs. Middleton Biddulph.
-
-
-
-CHIRK CASTLE
-
-
-Is delightfully situated on the spacious domain, spreading over the
-summit of, what would be deemed, by a southern, a lofty mountain, but
-which is here only designated a hill, projecting from the range of Berwyn
-mountains; and is well calculated to recall the stories of the days of
-old, when flourished
-
-       “The good old rule, the simple plan,
-    That they should take who have the power,
-       And they should keep who can.”
-
-                         [Picture: Chirk Castle]
-
-It is built of solid stone; and the ivy, mantling over the walls, gives
-them an appearance of solemnity and grandeur, peculiarly interesting.  It
-is quadrangular, and is strengthened by five massive towers, one at each
-corner, and the fifth projecting from the principal front, through which
-is a lofty entrance into the court-yard, 165 feet in length, and 100 feet
-in breadth, surrounded on every side by noble suites of apartments.  The
-picture gallery measures 100 feet in length, by twenty-two in breadth;
-and contains some very excellent paintings, and several portraits of the
-Middleton family.  Amongst the latter is that of Sir Thomas Middleton,
-who defended himself gallantly against the forces of Cromwell, and was
-rewarded for his loyalty by Charles II, who granted him £30,000 for the
-loss he had sustained, besides many valuable presents; amongst others, a
-cabinet, which is shewn in the gallery, valued at £7,000, richly
-ornamented with silver; in various compartments of which are paintings,
-said to have been executed by Rubens.  The monarch offered to elevate Sir
-Thomas to the peerage, which he declined.
-
-The walls of the castle are eighteen feet in thickness; but sleeping and
-other apartments have been cut into them, for the accommodation of the
-family.
-
-The celebrated picture of Pystil Rhaidar, in the dining-room, shows that
-noble waterfall tumbling into the _sea_, _where several ships are quietly
-riding at anchor_.  “Pystil Rhaidar,” _i.e._ “The spout of the Cataract,”
-is considered the largest fall in Wales.  In the valley of Mochnant,
-about four miles from the village, the river falls over an almost
-perpendicular rock, 240 feet high; thence rushing furiously under a
-natural arch towards the bottom, it plunges into a deep black pool,
-overhung with impervious shaggy wood.
-
-The story of the artist’s introducing the ocean with ships, is rather
-curious.  He was a foreigner, and but little acquainted with the English
-language; and when he had completed the picture, one of the persons to
-whom it was first shown observed, that “a few _sheep_ placed near the
-foot of the fall would be a great improvement.”  Misunderstanding _sheep_
-for _ship_, his amazement was extreme.  He, however, took the picture to
-his easel, and introduced _ships_ with the necessary element to float
-them!  A mistake so humorous determined the purchaser to allow of no
-further alteration.
-
-The present building was completed in two years.  The first stone being
-laid in the year 1011, and in 1013 the castle frowned defiance to the
-foe.
-
-It was built by Roger Mortimer, Earl of Wigmore, as a stronghold to
-defend him from the just vengeance he had created by the murder of the
-sons of Gryffydd ap Madoc, to whom he was appointed guardian, in
-conjunction with John, Earl of Warren, in the hope of inheriting their
-joint estates.  Mortimer was to seize upon Nanheuddwg and Chirk, the
-property of the youngest; and Warren upon the lands of Broomfield, Yale,
-and Dinas Bran, belonging to the eldest.  Travellers should not neglect
-to visit this noble specimen of warlike architecture.  Its picture
-gallery and dungeon will, in their different styles, excite admiration.
-
-On the foundation of the present castle anciently stood Castle Crogen;
-and the territory around bore the name of Tref-y-Waun, the property of
-the lords of Dinas Bran, and continued in their possession up to the
-death of Gryffydd ap Madoc, in the reign of Edward the First.
-
-The view from the highlands of the park is very extensive, commanding a
-prospect of seventeen different counties.  “The ground upon which we now
-stand,” said my companion, “is remarkable for a melancholy circumstance,
-which caused much grief and sorrow in the castle and its neighbourhood.
-The story of Owen-ap-Mylton and Mary Fuller will perhaps interest you, as
-it gave a name to this part of the estate, which it still retains, ‘The
-Black Park.’”
-
-
-
-THE ENCHANTED STAG.
-
-
-In a poor hut, which formerly stood upon the site of a few cottages, upon
-the right of the lane leading to the castle from the high road, lived an
-aged woman, who kept no society, and was considered, from her reserved
-habits, drooping gait, and smoke-dried visage, to have strange dealings
-with the Evil One; and upon whom the neighbours looked with fear and
-trembling, whenever they met her in the evening twilight, or when
-
-    “— the morn in russet mantle clad,
-    _Walk’d_ o’er the dew of yon high eastern hill.”
-
-Her patch of ground she cultivated without help from any; and no one knew
-by what means she obtained clothing, as her garden stock only consisted
-of a few eatables, which she could ill afford to part with for wool to
-supply her spinning wheel; and yet her hose were good and clean, and her
-woollen petticoat and russet gown well fitted to endure the weather’s
-extremes.  Strange stories were, however, reported respecting her, as it
-was said she had come from the Devil’s Peak in Derbyshire, where she had
-the credit of being a witch, and was nearly apprehended, upon a special
-order from King James himself, by the officers of justice, who, when they
-would have laid hands upon her, were astonished to find that they had
-seized each other, she having vanished suddenly from betwixt them, and,
-on the same day, it was said, appeared at Chirk Castle, offering to pay a
-half year’s rent in advance for the little hut, which was then to let, by
-the hedge-side in the lane, and which the steward accepted.  She
-regularly, afterwards paid in advance; but none could tell how she came
-by the money, and the gossips reviled her as a limb of the Devil.  This
-absurd notion obtained for her the odium of having performed a principal
-part in the following simple and melancholy tale.
-
-Owen, the ranger, was a tall, handsome, light-hearted, well-meaning lad,
-as any in the country, much esteemed amongst his associates, and admired
-by all the lasses from Chirk to Llangollen, from whom he had selected
-Mary Fuller for his bride, a blue-eyed, flaxen-haired, pretty lass, who
-lived as servant in the castle.
-
-Owen’s cottage, situated where now stands a handsome house, was a neat
-building, consisting of four rooms; it was thatched, and the interior was
-adorned with implements of the chase.  It commanded a pleasant and
-romantic prospect; the view down the valley being extremely picturesque.
-Upon the trunk of an elm tree, the stump of which is almost all that time
-has spared, are still to be traced, although faintly discernible, the
-widely expanded initials, O. M. and M. F. which in former days were
-doubtless deeply cut in its bark.  It was the favourite tree of Owen and
-Mary; and beneath its spreading branches they used to sit many a
-moonlight evening, and whisper rustic vows of constancy and truth.
-
-One night, as they were walking, with arms clasped round each other’s
-waist, near the hut of the old strange woman, they were surprised at
-beholding her patting a noble stag, which had strayed from the park, and
-which seemed fond of his new acquaintance, for it licked her face and
-capered before her, and put its mouth close to her ear, while she
-continued to pat him with her hand, and speak to him in a language
-totally unknown to the peasantry.  Owen, enraged at seeing one whom he
-considered a witch, seducing one of his noblest stags from the park,
-raised his cross-bow and shook his head at her, as if to intimate that he
-would shoot her, should she dare to fondle the deer again.  The old
-beldame, frightened at his looks and gestures, retreated into her hut,
-but shook her hand at him in a threatening manner; while the stag,
-bounding suddenly from her door, made towards the park, like lightning,
-and leaping the high fence, began to browze as usual on its native
-pasture.  Mary noticed the look and threatening action of the old woman
-with fear, and for sometime they continued their walk in silence, neither
-being anxious to _speak_ upon the subject, but both unable to _think_ of
-any thing else.  At length, when they reached the bottom of the lane, and
-turned into the high road (which at this period was rough and only used
-by horsemen and foot passengers who were dreadfully inconvenienced by the
-state it was suffered to remain in), the cloud that hung over their
-spirits began to disperse itself, and Owen, eager to resume the theme
-which the appearance of the old woman had interrupted, again spoke of
-their approaching marriage and the proposed arrangements he had formed.
-Mary listened with attention, for only one day was to intervene before
-the happy morning was to open on their joys.
-
-Owen informed her that his master had promised him the finest buck he
-could kill in the park, and a couple of barrels of his old October, to
-regale his friends and guests; he had likewise, he said, presented him
-with a new bed and furniture, fit for a baron to lie upon, and large
-enough for six to sleep in!  Mary was happy, and Owen more animated, as
-he spoke of the bounty of his gracious master.  Mary, eager to enumerate
-the presents she had received, began the catalogue of articles necessary
-for their domestic economy and comfort, and had nearly ran through the
-names of fifty by the time they arrived at her cottage door, which was
-the signal for parting, and with many a kiss and promise of meeting again
-early in the morning, the lovers separated.
-
-Owen went whistling along the road with a light heart, in fond
-anticipation of future felicity, when suddenly, as he turned into the
-dark lane, upon his way to his own lodge, he was startled by the
-appearance of a dark form, with glaring eyes of fire, squatted upon the
-trunk of an old alder tree, that had been blasted by the lightning a few
-days before; and an unearthly _mew_! broke from its lips; and it spat a
-quantity of saliva in his face.  Hot, hot, and burning, seemed the filthy
-rheum!  A low growl increased his terrors; and a wild squall gave him the
-speed of a deer, as he darted along the dark and narrow lane, his hair
-standing on end.  When he had reached the solitary’s door, he saw her
-seated by her iron pot, stirring the contents with the handle of a broom,
-while the glare from the crackling fagot shot frequent but transient
-streams of light upon her time-worn visage.  Being now more convinced
-than ever that sorcery was at work, he redoubled his speed, and heated
-with fright and fear, reached his welcome home, where he sank breathless
-into a chair in the chimney corner.
-
-Strange dreams afflicted him during the night; and he arose at daybreak
-feverish and unrefreshed.  The usual summons at the door was given by his
-fellow ranger, who, upon being admitted, presented him with a venison
-pasty, on which he felt his courage and appetite rapidly returning.  A
-second friend brought a flagon of wine from the kind rector of the
-village; a third brought a quarter of mountain lamb; a fourth the haunch
-of a well fatted kid; and many other tokens of kindness from his
-neighbours entirely banished the memory of the disagreeables of the
-preceding night, and universal smiles and congratulations ushered in the
-merry morning.
-
-Mary’s friends, meanwhile, were no less anxious to evince their regard
-for her; and presents poured in from all parts of the neighbourhood, from
-warm hearted and considerate well-wishers relations and acquaintances, in
-consideration of the happy morrow which was to unite two beings
-universally respected and beloved.  There was a happy congregation in the
-valley of Chirk, upon the evening previous to the appointed bridal morn.
-The minstrel struck up his liveliest notes; the maidens danced joyfully;
-and even grand-sires and their dames exerted themselves in the dance,
-evincing that though time had somewhat burthened their bodies, their
-“hearts were all light and merry.”
-
-Evening at length drew near to a close, and the shadows of the mountains
-spreading over the peaceful valley, gave signal to depart.  It was
-pleasing to listen to the distant and retiring notes of the minstrel’s
-harp, and the hum of laughter, echoed from the beetling cliff and dying
-in the gorge of the Ceriog valley.  Sometimes the wild halloo of the
-mountaineer was heard shouting above the heads of those beneath; until at
-length only two persons stood upon the sloping sides of the castle hill,
-with fixed attention, looking in each others face, and with arms entwined
-around their youthful forms.
-
-There are few who have not felt the power of love: but very few perhaps
-have stood as these two stood, upon the slope of a dark mountain rock,
-listening to the parting accents of their friends as they subsided into
-silence, while beneath them roared the never quiet-waters, brawling
-through rocky fragments, and shaking the wild tangled shrubs that grew
-upon their banks; with limpid kisses pure and fresh.  And there they
-paused, and looked, and sighed, and loved, and murmured sweet words of
-anticipated happiness; when suddenly the sky, serene before, was overcast
-with clouds, and the wind rushed by them with a fury powerful as
-unexpected.  The night grew darker and darker, and they were nearly half
-a league from Mary’s house.  They cautiously pursued their way through
-the dew-dripping heather, when presently a light appeared on the opposite
-side of the valley; and shadowy forms were distinctly seen moving behind
-it in slow procession.  They had reached the spot where the aqueduct now
-crosses the vale, within a short distance of Mary’s dwelling, but terror
-prevented them from moving, while the procession with the corpse-light at
-its head, glided along without a sound, becoming more distinct as it
-approached within a hundred paces of the spot where the terrified lovers
-stood almost breathless.  Four shadowy, headless figures followed the
-light, and were succeeded by a hearse, which moved without the aid of
-horses or creature of any kind to draw or propel it forward, upon which
-lay extended the form of a man, bloody, as newly slain.  Owen fancied he
-saw a resemblance of himself in that bloody corpse, and the increasing
-weight of Mary upon his arm, assured him she had likewise recognised the
-likeness, for she had fainted.  With eyes that almost burst from their
-sockets, he continued to gaze on, and saw, or thought he saw, many of his
-kind friends weeping, in the long train that followed.  The corpse-light
-still advanced, and he distinctly saw it leading towards the churchyard
-of the village, where it vanished amongst the old yew trees, and with it
-the phantoms that made up the procession.
-
-Owen bore his senseless burthen to the cottage, where he acquainted her
-mother that a sudden fright had caused her to be thus overcome, desiring
-that she should be put to bed upon the instant, and that when she
-recovered she might be persuaded, what she had seen was merely the
-illusion of a dream; and he quitted the cottage with a heavy heart.
-
-The night was a sleepless one both to Mary and to her lover; but with the
-rising beams of the morning their gloom dispersed; and, as the rays
-gilded the mountain tops, they were both up, and waiting for the numerous
-friends of both sexes, that usually, on such occasions, are anxious to be
-foremost in paying their salutations.  The bride’s cottage being of the
-smallest class, Owen’s was agreed upon to be the place of rendezvous, and
-a plentiful store of viands was ready for the guests to partake of at an
-early hour.  The gay friends of the preceding evening were seen decorated
-in their holiday garments, fresh and fair as the cool breeze and the
-sweetest wild flowers of their native hills, clustering together before
-their cottages, and tripping in various groups towards Owen’s pleasant
-dwelling.  Eight o’clock in the morning was the time appointed for the
-ceremony to take place in the little church of Chirk, and all were eager
-to attend the young couple, and—to eat their breakfast, which on such
-occasions was far from frugal.  Owen’s relatives were all ready mounted
-at his door, prepared for the wedding hunt, and, when he joined them,
-away they galloped towards the cottage of Mary.  She was seated upon her
-favourite Merlin, surrounded by her friends, who set up a shout as Owen
-and his party came in sight.  The bridegroom having arrived, and made his
-claim to Mary, he was refused; and then a mock fight took place between
-the parties, and sundry thwacks upon the head were given and received in
-sport.  At length, the bride and her kinsmen started off at full speed in
-the direction of Chirk Castle.  The bridegroom following, worse mounted,
-but eager in the pursuit, shouting for them to stop; until at last the
-flying party having reached the park, they permitted Owen to overtake
-them, according to the custom, who then led his bride to the cottage,
-where everything was in readiness for their reception.
-
-The bride, habited in a snow white dress, with some white heath flowers
-bound in her braided hair, was the admiration of all.  Owen in his new
-suit, made for the occasion, looked handsomer than ever.  They danced
-together upon the new mown grass, while Jordan, the minstrel, played his
-blithest tunes.  At length, the party sat down to the repast, and rustic
-jests were given and returned with glee and good humour; when suddenly,
-the bridegroom being called aside, Mary took that opportunity to steal
-away, meaning to run off to the church, and laugh at Owen’s and his
-friend’s perplexity at her absence, and their astonishment at finding her
-at the church porch before them.
-
-She was soon missed; and, suspecting it was a trick to perplex them, away
-the whole party ran in different directions in search of the runaway.
-
-Mary had nearly arrived at the old woman’s cottage when Owen descried
-her.  He had not forgotten the scene of the preceding night, and his
-heart had some painful misgivings that all was not right when he first
-missed his bride so suddenly from the breakfast table.  Owen shouted and
-shouted! but the more he exercised his lungs, the faster she made use of
-her heels, when suddenly the “stag of six,” which he had seen the night
-before, darted from the old woman’s cottage, and ran furiously at Mary,
-who turned round and retraced her steps with fear and terror, but with
-the speed of the wind.  She flew past Owen, who endeavoured to stop the
-deer, but all in vain.  The interposing trees at times prevented the
-animal from pursuing, by entangling his branches with the lower boughs;
-but these impediments seemed only to redouble his fury when he again
-released himself, and Owen had not yet come up with him, though Mary kept
-the lead.  Other friends now joined in the attempt to drive the creature
-in another direction, and with hands joined they formed a barrier,
-shouting and hallooing to frighten the stag as he approached the park;
-but all in vain; he bounded on more furiously than before, scattering the
-crowd in every direction.  Owen at length overtook the furious stag, and
-was just in time to succour Mary.  His coat, which he had taken off in
-the race, he dexterously managed to fling over the antlers of the brute,
-which, falling over its eyes, for a minute confounded the deer, and
-taking his Mary by the arm, he hurried her away in the direction of the
-cottage, but not in time to elude the pursuit of the infuriated animal,
-which having shaken off the blind followed them at full speed.  Owen had
-no means of defence; the stag approached rapidly; he bade Mary continue
-her speed and reach the cottage, and then, with desperate valour, awaited
-the attack; in an instant after, he had grasped the horns and was dashed
-to the ground with violence: he rose again and with a bound leaped upon
-its back.  The creature flung his antlers back, whirled round and round,
-but still Owen sat immoveable, and new hopes arose in the breasts of his
-friends, who gathered near and hemmed them round, when suddenly the beast
-rushed sideways against the trunk of a huge oak, and violently fractured
-Owen’s leg; but with persevering bravery he still kept his seat.  At
-length, unable to rid itself of its burthen, the creature rolled upon the
-earth, and in the fall Owen’s right arm was shattered, and his foe once
-again free.  It reared and placed its fore feet on the chest of Owen;
-and, as he raised himself once more to grapple with his enemy, its
-pointed antlers struck into his heart, and with a groan he instantly
-expired, while the fierce animal took to the mountains, and was seen no
-more.
-
-Mary, who had entered the cottage of the ranger, in the midst of her
-terrors spoke of the old woman, who she said had bewitched the stag;—but,
-when her friends reached the door of the hut, and found they could not,
-by knocking, obtain admission, they broke it open, and found its inmate
-dead upon the floor.  Rumour said that she had infused her spirit into
-the deer to revenge the threats of Owen on the preceding night; and her
-remains were treated with a ferocity which it would be as painful to
-listen to as to narrate.
-
-Poor Mary never recovered from the shock; and in a few weeks after the
-mangled remains of her lover were deposited in the church yard of Chirk,
-the fresh flowers and evergreens were also placed around _her_ grave.
-
-For many years this tribute of friendship was regularly paid to their
-memories.  In summer, flowers of the sweetest perfume breathed their
-dying odours around their graves, and, in winter, the holly and laurel
-spread their shining leaves to adorn their final resting place.  Time,
-however, took away by degrees, the kind friends of the ill fated lovers,
-and no sign now points out the spot where, side by side, they slumber.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-We now got once more into the coach road, and pushed on for Llangollen,
-leaving Wynstay, the seat of Sir Watkin William Wynn, upon the right.
-Almost every guide book will furnish the tourist with a description of
-this costly mansion and its beautiful grounds; but the wild scenery of
-nature, and the ruins of former grandeur, which yield an inexhaustible
-fund for contemplation and delight, together with the wild legends of the
-peasant or wandering minstrel, which render every spot you tread upon in
-this country enchanted ground, are more congenial to the feelings of the
-writer of this little work than all the gorgeous display of modern art
-and luxury.  Therefore Wynstay, with Eaton Hall, the magnificent
-residence of the Marquis of Westminster, he resigns to those whose tastes
-are more refined (by luxury) to describe.
-
-Leaving Wynstay on the right, we were conducted along the banks of a
-beautiful canal (the same that crossed the valley at Chirk) which was
-here planted with larch and hazel in pleasing variety on either side.  On
-a sudden, an opening in the foliage presented us with a splendid view of
-the vale of the Dee, with the grand aqueduct stretching from hill to hill
-and the waters of the river making their way among broken rocks, amid
-embowering trees, and rolling under the arches of the aqueduct, with that
-delightful sound which is only heard in mountain scenery.
-
-Seldom had I experienced so delightful a sensation as the present
-prospect occasioned.  All was so calm, so quiet, it seemed indeed “the
-happy valley.”  Shortly after, however, we found that no golden pleasure
-is entirely free from alloy, for on turning a projection upon the road,
-we were nearly stifled by the smoke from a lime furnace, and what was
-worse, “another and another still succeeded,” resembling a line of
-batteries blazing and vomiting forth smoke and destruction, while on the
-opposite mountain an uniform body of iron works were firing away from
-their tall chimneys, and steadily maintaining the never ceasing conflict.
-
-At length, however, having happily passed these belligerents, my
-companion led me in triumph into a little public house on the road side,
-(which overlooked a precipice) _the Aqueduct Tavern_, the exterior of
-which promised little better accommodation than is to be met with in an
-Irish cabin.  We entered, nevertheless, and, although the floor was of
-brick, it was very clean and the household utensils glittered along the
-walls.
-
-“Pray, gentlemen, walk into the back parlour,” said a comely looking,
-good natured landlady of about forty-three.
-
-We gladly accepted her invitation, and were agreeably surprised to find a
-neat room, carpeted, with a sofa, and half a dozen hair-bottomed chairs,
-and every thing rurally comfortable.  The window looked upon the
-aqueduct, and commanded a beautiful view.
-
-Here I became musical, and hummed “the woodpecker tapping,” to the no
-small annoyance of my companion, who had stretched himself upon the sofa
-with the intention, doubtless, of taking a nap after his long walk.
-
-    “And I said, if there’s peace to be found in the world,
-    The heart that is humble might hope for it here.”
-
-“And here will I take up my quarters for the night.  A glass of gin and
-water, cold and weak, if you please, Mrs. —, for I am thirsty.  Very
-good, indeed;—now, a sheet of paper, to take down my notes of the day’s
-ramble.  Very good again, Mrs. —, and now if you have good beds you may
-get us a lamb chop, with some tea, etc. etc. and leave us to enjoy this
-lovely prospect.”
-
-“No beds, I am sorry to say.”
-
-“No beds, Mrs. —!”
-
-“No, sir, I hope to get some by next summer.”
-
-“Why then, Mrs. —, I am afraid we shall have to proceed to the village.
-How far is Llangollen from this?”
-
-“Six miles, sir.”
-
-“And it is now—”
-
-“Just six o’clock, sir.”
-
-“Then bring in two screeching hot tumblers of punch, there’s a good lady,
-and
-
-    “Let us take the road.”
-
-Here the trumpet of my companion began to sound; but I thought it would
-be advisable for him to rise before he became too stiff to resume his
-walk; therefore, with “yoicks! yoicks!” I startled the heavy god from his
-eyelids, and informed him of our unfortunate situation.
-
-“It matters but little,” said he; “there is sufficient upon the road to
-interest us, and perhaps the twilight of such an evening as this is
-preferable to the morning.”
-
-Having discussed our punch and lighted our cigars, we quitted the
-comfortable little cottage, and bent our steps towards the aqueduct,
-intending to cross by it to the opposite side of the vale.
-
-A cigar in the cool of the evening is delightful.
-
-    “Glorious tobacco, that from east to west
-    Cheers the tar’s labour, and the Turk-man’s rest.”
-
-So sang the Noble Bard, the music of whose lyre is left to charm the race
-of mankind for ages yet to come.
-
-We soon reached the centre of the aqueduct; it extends from mountain to
-mountain in length 980 feet; it is sustained by twenty piers, 116 feet in
-height from the bed of the river Dee, and the span of the arches is
-forty-five feet.
-
-“Do you observe yon house?” inquired my companion, with a grave air,
-pointing to a building which seemed to have belonged to some opulent
-person in times gone by, although it was now in a state of decay.  Having
-replied in the affirmative, he proceeded:—“In that house lived a creature
-who was called ‘the Pride of the Valley.’  She was the daughter of a rich
-merchant of Bristol, and was beloved by a poor but honest and
-well-educated youth, who was, and has been since, a wanderer from his
-birth.  Her christian name was Eveleen; no matter for her father’s.  The
-following verses were written upon her untimely fate:
-
-    “In the days of my boyhood, when pleasures pass’d by,
-    Like the fragrance of flowers on morning’s first sigh,
-    In the vale of Llangollen there dwelt a fair rose
-    More lovely than daybreak, and sweet as its close.
-             Her step was light
-             As fays by night:
-    More thrilling her voice than the streamlet that flows
-    And mild as the moonlight and blue as the sky
-    Was the beam and the colour of Eveleen’s eye.
-
-    “But Eveleen’s friends were of wealthy degree,
-    And tyranny forced her to cross the wide sea.
-    She faded, alas! as she drooped o’er the wave,
-    And died! but no blossom was strewed on her grave.
-             The waters deep,
-             Roll o’er her sleep,
-    And sea-stars now light up her billowy cave;
-    The winds moan above her, and Peris deplore
-    Round the rose of Llangollen, which charms us no more.”
-
-“She was ordered to the Indies,” he said, vainly endeavouring to hide a
-tear, which told me the secret of his heart.  I know not how it is, love
-tales are generally a great bore to the listener, but there was something
-so true, so heartfelt, in that single drop which glistened in the eye of
-my companion, that if delicacy would have permitted me, I should
-certainly have taxed him as being the hero of his own tale, and have
-requested him to give me a more minute relation of the affair.
-
-I never felt the influence of the sublime mingled with the beautiful so
-deeply as when I stood upon this wonderful work of art; wherever I turned
-my eyes, the scene was calculated to excite the warmest feelings of
-admiration.  The Dee flowing beneath, shadowed by the rich tints of the
-summer foliage; the ruined bridge; the dark mountain masses upon either
-side, patched with gloomy pines, intermingled with the relieving
-brightness of the graceful larch;—here tracing the lovely blooming
-heather, there the blasted rock in its naked majesty, and the noble
-amphitheatre at the extremity of the vale, with a view of the beautiful
-stream, as it came winding from the opposite point—the twittering of the
-birds as they prepared their mossy nests for repose, gave a charm to the
-evening, which can only be felt while witnessing the scene, and exceeds
-the power of description.
-
-Having crossed the aqueduct, we proceeded by the left bank of the canal,
-passing a forge that nearly stifled us with gaseous smoke, along a
-pathway made of cinders and small coal, the refuse of the foundry.  Trees
-of every description hung over our heads, and sloped down a deep
-declivity to the margin of the Dee, while on the opposite bank the
-mountain frowned above us.  The partial glances we obtained of the vale
-through the woods, discovered scenes which the artist’s fancy might
-vainly attempt to equal.  The water-flies, darting along the surface of
-the canal, and leaving long streaks of light behind them in myriad
-flashes, likewise engaged our attention; and we walked on in
-contemplative silence, my mind full of the crowd of natural beauties that
-surrounded me; while my companion seemed rapt in reflections upon the
-past—sometimes pausing to gaze upon a drooping willow, at others scanning
-a majestic oak that grew apart from the rest of the waving multitude, as
-if recollections of a painful nature crossed his mind.
-
-At length, we reached the bridge of Llangollen, where the river is seen
-to great advantage, tumbling over its rocky bed, and rushing beneath the
-dark shelter of the overhanging trees.  The village is small, and
-contains three respectable inns; viz.: the Hand, at which we stopped by
-the advice of my companion, the King’s Head, and the Royal Hotel.  We
-were shewn into a very good parlour, and, after ordering a tea and supper
-dinner, my friend, somewhat exhausted by the day’s march, flung himself
-once more upon a sofa, while I resumed my journal.  Supper or dinner, or
-whatever it may be termed being over, inquiries were made about our bed
-rooms.
-
-                          [Picture: Llangollen]
-
-“Your bed, sir, is made over the way.”
-
-“Over the way!”
-
-“Yes; my mistress has but one bed unoccupied, and she thought you would
-resign that to the elderly gentleman.”
-
-“Oh certainly, my good girl; and who is to guide me ‘over the way,’ eh!
-for it’s as dark as Erebus?”
-
-“Oh, sir, John, the ostler.  Here, John!  John!”
-
-And away went the girl.  I confess I have a strong aversion, after having
-taken off my boots, put on my slippers, and made up my mind to be
-comfortable for the night, to be obliged to walk some hundred yards from
-the parlour fireside, across or along a damp street, in a dark night, to
-my bedchamber; chilling work it is.  At length, however, the deed was
-done, and I was shewn into a bedroom, where the murmurs of the flowing
-Dee were distinctly heard beneath the window.  I felt cold and
-uncomfortable.
-
-“Here am I, then,” said I, soliloquizing, as I pressed the pillow, “here
-am I, at length, in the vale of Llangollen—in the village of Llangollen!
-the spot which I have so often longed to visit!
-
-    “Flow on, thou shining river!”
-
-And how fortunate, too, to meet with such an agreeable old gentleman!—and
-that Bristol merchant’s daughter, poor girl!—and that old
-witch!—corpse-light!—greased cow’s tail!—and, in a few moments, I sank
-soundly to sleep.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER IV.
-
-
-Waking prospect—Plas Newydd and the grounds—Lines written at the
-font—Castle Dinas Bran—Legend of Mick Mallow—View of the Castle—Legend of
-the Minstrel Fay—Original Air—Festival.
-
-    “I crossed in its beauty the Dee’s druid water,
-    The waves as I passed rippled lowly and lone,
-    For the brave on their borders had perished in slaughter,
-    The noble were banished, the gifted were gone.”
-
-                                                                W. WIFFEN.
-
-I WAS dreaming of home, and happiness, and a thousand lovely things, when
-I was awakened by my new acquaintance, who stood before me dressed for a
-sturdy walk, with a glass of brandy and milk in his hand, which he
-advised me to finish before I quitted my room.  I however, contented
-myself with tasting it, and returning him the remainder, which he quaffed
-off with the alacrity of one who thought example was better than precept.
-
-“A lovely morning,” said Triptolemus, rubbing his hands with much
-delight; “come, bustle, bustle, my young friend; you are not in London,
-now.  Permit me to open the lattice; you will find no perfume at your
-chamber window in town like this;” and, as he spoke, he flung open the
-casement, and a rush of fragrance poured into the room from hundreds of
-roses that clustered upon the wall without.  It was a draught of delight
-which far surpassed the brandy and milk, in my estimation; nor was my
-friend at all deficient in praising its sweetness, for, taking a long
-breath, he stood, for a moment, with his mouth wide open, and then sent
-forth a sigh, long enough to form a bridge over the river for the fairies
-to cross upon.
-
-“Shall we breakfast before we set out upon our ramble?  I think we had
-better give orders for it, and visit the cottage where Lady Elinor Butler
-and Miss Ponsonby so long resided, while it is preparing.”
-
-This being agreed to, we crossed over to the Hand Inn, and gave
-directions for a breakfast, that would enable us to undergo the
-subsequent fatigue with cheerfulness; and then struck into the road for
-Plas Newydd.  This memorable little dwelling is pleasantly situated upon
-a rising knoll, and commands a delightful prospect of mountain scenery.
-
-The front of the cottage is ornamented with an oaken palisade, curiously
-carved with grotesque figures, giving a very tasty and aristocratic
-appearance to the building.  At the back of the house is a neat grass
-plot, with a birdcote, where the robins find a grateful shelter in the
-winter season, and where the ladies fed them every morning.  It is
-surrounded with a fence of evergreens.  From thence, the gardener, who is
-still retained upon the grounds, conducted us under an archway, to a very
-pleasant and winding path, which leads to a well stocked fruit garden.
-We then descended by a shady walk, arched over with tall trees, to the
-primrose vale, through which a refreshing stream rushes over rocks, where
-the sun but rarely gilds it with its beams.  It is a delightful cool
-retreat, and well calculated to awaken the dormant spirit of poesy, in
-any heart where it had ever deigned to dwell.  We passed over a rustic
-bridge which led us to the veranda, from which we had a fine view of the
-valley of Cewynn and the Pegwerm mountains; and then proceeding a little
-farther up the glen, we seated ourselves opposite a most picturesque
-font, brought hither from the ruins of Valle Crucis, by the late
-proprietors of this spot.  It is enclosed in a small arched niche, and
-supplied with the purest water from a murmuring rill, which falls in a
-thin stream into the bowl, a draught from which is an exquisite treat—for
-_water_ drinkers.
-
-              [Picture: Font in the grounds of Plas Newydd]
-
-
-
-LINES WRITTEN AT THE FONT.
-
-
-    Drink, gentle pilgrim, from the well,
-    Thus sacred in this hollow dell!
-    Drink deep!—yet ere the yearning lip
-    Touches the draught it longs to sip,
-    Pray for the souls of those who gave
-    This font that holds the limpid wave!—
-    This holy font, which lay o’erthrown
-    Mid Valle Crucis’ shadows brown,
-    And which the hands of holy men
-    Have blest, but ne’er can bless again!
-    Drink, happy pilgrim, drink and pray,
-    At morning dawn or twilight grey,—
-    Pray for the souls of those who gave
-    This font, that holds the limpid wave!
-
-The flower garden is laid out with great taste; and the little circular
-dairy, sunk in the ground, on the left at the front entrance, affords a
-most pleasing and picturesque effect.  Altogether, it is a place where
-any person, wearied with the bustle of society, would willingly fly for
-refuge, and find repose.
-
-After rewarding the gardener for his attention in shewing us the retreat,
-we returned, with good appetites, to do justice to the fare provided by
-our host of the Hand.  And here I was first destined to hear the sounds
-of the Welsh harp.  As we discussed our fare, the harper in the hall
-played up his liveliest tunes.  There was not an original Welsh air in
-the whole collection; for it consisted of all the popular songs that had
-been bawled about the streets of London for the last three years; and
-though probably new to the ears of the dwellers in this secluded valley,
-were to me anything but gratifying.  I sent out the waiter, therefore,
-requesting the minstrel to play a few of his national melodies; when he
-immediately commenced an air, to which I have heard a song, I think of
-old Charles Dibdin’s, called “The Tortoise-shell Tom Cat.”  After a
-second attempt, I gave the thing up as hopeless, and was obliged to
-content myself with the anticipation of hearing some Welsh airs when I
-returned to London, as they seemed to be exiled from their native
-valleys.
-
-Breakfast being despatched, we slung our pistols, _i.e._ leathern
-bottles, filled with _eau de vie_, to our sides, and started to view the
-ruins of Dinas Bran, an ancient fortress, upon the summit of a conical
-mountain, which forms the principal feature of this portion of the vale,
-and is indeed a striking object, from almost every part of the
-neighbourhood.  The ascent begins near the foot of the bridge opposite to
-the town.
-
-As we passed along the street, we perceived the following notice pasted
-upon the gable of a house:
-
-    “The Annual Festival of the Llangollen and Llandysilio Female Club
-    will be held, as usual, at the Hand Inn gardens, on Tuesday, 27th of
-    June.  The members will walk in procession to church, exactly at
-    three o’clock, &c., &c.”
-
-“This festival,” said my companion, “is well worthy of notice.  The
-promoters of this valuable institution are Mrs. Cunluff, and Mrs. Ayton,
-the rector’s wife.  It was formed for the support of the aged and
-afflicted, who have the benefit of food and medical attendance in
-sickness and calamity, by contributing a trifle out of their weekly
-wages, when in health and employment.”  We had sufficient time to ascend
-the mountain, and return before the procession quitted the churchyard.
-
-Triptolemus was strongly built, and, being accustomed to rambling amongst
-the Welsh vales, and over its steepest mountains, far outstripped me in
-the ascent, which was by no means easy.  We took a zig-zag direction up
-the hill, which was too precipitate to mount in a direct way, and about
-half way up I made a pause.
-
-“I wish some one would invent a steam pocket apparatus, for dragging
-tourists up mountains,” said I, as I seated myself to take breath, upon a
-mossy knoll.
-
-“The circular hollow, by which you have taken your seat,” said
-Triptolemus, “is dignified by a legend, which, as you seem to be somewhat
-fatigued, I will relate to you.”
-
-
-
-MICK MALLOW.
-
-
-Mick Mallow was a shepherd lad, a fond narrator of strange stories, and a
-firm believer in knockers, brownies, and other spirits that are supposed
-to hover about and under our mountains.  He declared that one night, as
-he sat quietly meditating what part of the mountain he should select for
-his bed, he was startled by hearing a tinkling sound near him, and
-raising his head, he saw, perched upon this stone, a little man with a
-pair of moss breeches, birch-leaf coat, heather-bloom waistcoat, a yellow
-cap of the blossom of a furze bush, shining stockings, and beetle-wing
-pumps.  Thus equipped, he looked very smart; and in his left hand he held
-a fiddle, while with his right he twanged the strings, and made the hairs
-of Mick’s head stand on end,
-
-    “Like quills upon the fretful porcupine.”
-
-“Hôs da i chwi!” said the little fairy, speaking in Welsh; which means,
-“good night to you!”
-
-“The same to you,” said Mick, “and many of them.”
-
-“You’re fond of a dance, Mick, I believe, and if you stay here, you’ll
-have an opportunity of seeing the finest dancers in the world, or out of
-the world, and I’m the musician!”
-
-“Then where’s your harp?” said Mick, “and what’s that ugly outlandish
-thing you’ve got under your arm?”
-
-“Oh! it’s my fiddle,” said the little man, “and you shall bear me play
-it, presently.”
-
-And now Mick saw hundreds of little spirits ascending the mountain; some
-of them carrying glow-worms in their hands for torches; some dressed in
-white, some in green, and some in brown.  But all the females were in
-white, and on they came, dancing and singing; but so lightly did they
-trip, that not a drop of dew was seen to be displaced by their weight;
-and every one saluted Mick with a “good night to ye, Mick Mallow,” and to
-every one he made a suitable reply, marvelling how so many well dressed
-spirits should know him so well; and he was, to say the truth, greatly
-frightened and astonished at his new acquaintance.
-
-At length the little man, who had invited him to remain where he was,
-drew his bow thrice across the strings of his instrument and produced
-such exquisite tones, that Mick opened his eyes still wider, and pricked
-up his ears with delight.  This multitude of spirits had now ranged
-themselves in fantastic groups, forming altogether a spacious circle
-round the stone upon which their musician stood, who then waved his
-fiddle stick, and striking three chords on the fiddle, away they went
-dancing round and round, slowly at first, and Mick thought Peg Willis,
-the drover’s daughter, couldn’t hold a candle to any one of them, though
-she was generally considered the best dancer at any festival for many
-miles round.  Now Mick was fond of a dance himself, and could hardly
-forbear joining them; but his fears prevented him, for he thought that
-dancing on a mountain at night, to perhaps the devil’s fiddle, was not
-the likeliest way to get to heaven.  But, when the dance became more
-spirited, he felt his heels knocking together, and he snapped his fingers
-and joined in the air with his voice.
-
-“Well done, well done,” cried the little man who played, “come and join
-in the dance Mick, I’ll warrant you never saw such dancing at any
-wedding, as you see here!”
-
-“Never! never! never!” cried Mick, and all the company laughed softly,
-and danced faster and faster.
-
-“Come and join us,” cried they; and Mick rubbed his head, while his heels
-kept time; at length, he was so delighted by the motions of a fairy, who
-threw her bright glances at him now and then, that with an irresistable
-desperation he called out for them to stop, till he got into the centre
-of them, which he had no sooner done than he roared out, “Now, you old
-devil, play up Brimstone and Water!”
-
-No sooner had he uttered these words, than the figure of the little man
-underwent a change!  The yellow cap vanished from his head, and a pair of
-goat’s horns, branched out from his head; his face turned black as soot,
-his leafy coat, heather-bloom waistcoat and moss breeches, with shining
-stockings, vanished, and left a black body with a long tail! while his
-beetle-wing shoes disappeared as suddenly and left nothing but the cloven
-feet.  Mick’s heart was heavy, but his heels were light; horror was in
-his breast, but mirth was in every motion.  The fays assumed a variety of
-forms, some like goats, others like crows; some changed to beetles and
-others to batts! all the varieties of flesh and fowl seemed to be the
-grand movers of the revel, from the moment he entered the enchanted
-circle.  The dance, at length, became so furious that he could not
-perceive the forms of the dancers distinctly.  The rapidity with which
-they flew round and round made them resemble a wheel of fire at a white
-heat.  Still he danced on, although he would very willingly have stopped,
-but his legs capered in spite of his will, while old Nick, in the centre,
-continued to play with unceasing vigour and seemingly much diverted with
-the entertainment.
-
-Mick’s master, an honest early-rising man, roamed up the mountain, at
-break of day, to view his sheep and goats, which he saw quietly browsing
-in various parts, but, on nearing this spot, you may imagine his
-astonishment, when he beheld his shepherd dancing in that most
-extraordinary manner; leaping, twisting and turning in every direction;
-for some time, he stood mute with astonishment.  At length, he drew near,
-and no sooner did Mick perceive his master, than he roared out.  “Stop
-me! stop me! oh master, stop me!” upon which the master came close up to
-him, and was knocked down by an extra fling of Mick’s leg, as he roared
-still louder, “Stop me, master, stop me!”
-
-Having recovered his feet, the old man stared quite bewildered and
-exclaimed, “Why, what in the name of the Virgin!—”
-
-But no sooner had he uttered the word, than the charm was broken, and
-poor Mick sank senseless to the earth.  When sufficiently recovered, he
-recounted the marvellous tale, and declared that all appeared to him as a
-dream.  But the circle remains, round the edge of the hollow, where the
-fairies disappeared, which the peasants assert to be the fairy’s foot
-mark to this day. {107}
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-We now proceeded on our ascent, which became more difficult, as we
-approached the summit, and after a little toil we stood by the side of
-the _well_, whose pure waters gave joy to the inhabitants of this ancient
-fortress many hundred years ago, and still offer a welcome draught to the
-pilgrim who has sufficient enterprise and perseverance to seek it.
-
-The view from the summit of this mountain is beautiful in the extreme;
-commanding the vale from east to west, with the widely spreading plains
-beyond its eastern extremity, and the grand and picturesque mountain
-scenery which forms the western boundary.  Chirk Castle, Wynstay, Valle
-Crucis and Glyndwrdwy are distinctly visible from this elevation, while
-the romantic Dee is seen winding beneath, in light and shadow beautifully
-varied by the hills, and the woods that droop over its banks.
-
-                      [Picture: Castle Dinas, Bran]
-
-Standing amid the ruins of this ancient British fortress, I observed it
-was surely impossible that a spot so romantic could be without its
-legends.
-
-“You are right,” said my companion, “and I will relate one of a young
-lady, who once resided within these walls.  That she did live here, and
-was esteemed very beautiful, there is little reason to doubt, since the
-Welsh bards have handed her down to posterity.”
-
-
-
-MY FAWNY VYCHAN,
-AND THE MINSTREL FAY.
-
-
-My Fawny Vychan was a celebrated beauty of the fourteenth century, and
-was the inspirer of many a bard’s most admired effusions.  She was of the
-house of Tudor Trevor, and her father Ednyfed Vychan then held the
-castle, under the noble Earl of Arundel, in the reign of the unfortunate
-Richard II.  Among her numerous admirers was Evan, a youthful bard of
-great beauty, but of mysterious birth; but her heart was given to a
-valiant knight, named Howell Einion, the son of Gwalchmai, the son of
-Meilir, the Lord of Tre Veilir in Anglesea, who was esteemed the greatest
-ornament of chivalry.  He was daring, young and handsome, three
-qualifications that find grace in the eyes of all ladies, at all periods;
-but added to these he was a celebrated bard and a fine musician.  Evan
-was gentle, delicate and retiring, and she could only yield him her
-esteem.  Yet nightly did he hover near her casement, and, with the voice
-of love, pour forth his soul in melody beneath it.  One evening, at the
-close of autumn, she listened, while tears of pity fell from her bright
-eyes, to the well known voice of Evan.
-
-    The breeze had left the Berwyn hills,
-    The dew was on the flower,
-    The bee had sought his honeycomb,
-    The bird was in his bower;
-    When swifter than the mountain gale,
-    And fresh as sparkling dew,
-    My bee, I sought thy honey-home,
-    My bird, to thee I flew!
-
-    My Alban steed is white with foam,
-    And droops his arched neck;
-    The flood, the mountain, moor, and glen,
-    He cross’d without a check!
-    Oh listen, while my harp I strike,
-    And rouse its sweetest tone,
-    And hear the language of a heart,
-    Which beats for thee alone!
-
-    Oh, dearest of the mortal race!
-    How peerless must thou be,
-    When spirits quit their happy homes,
-    To love, and gaze on thee!
-    Arise, bright star of beauty, rise!
-    And when from thee I roam,
-    Send forth the lustre of thine eyes,
-    To light me to my home!
-
-Evan, after this touching appeal, remained for some time beneath the
-window, gazing upwards, in the hope that she would grant him one
-farewell; but disappointed, he turned sorrowfully to depart, when his
-progress was arrested, by the sudden grasp of an armed hand, and Einion
-stood before him.  Howell had often observed, that the eyes of the young
-minstrel filled with tears as he gazed upon the beautiful face of his
-mistress, and was not pleased with the discovery.  His fine eyes, now
-flashed with anger upon Evan, who returned the glance as haughtily, and,
-but for the delicate frame of the minstrel, the knight would have
-revenged himself upon the object of his jealousy.  Evan’s eyes were black
-as jet, his face was femininely fair, and his transparent skin was tinged
-with that beautiful, but fatal hue, which brightens the cheeks of those
-already doomed to the consumptive fiend, who flatters while he destroys.
-
-He was slightly formed, but exquisitely moulded, and so light was his
-footstep, that his tread was scarcely heard, so that he obtained the
-application of the Minstrel Fay.
-
-No one knew his parents, or from whence he came.  His dress was of the
-best though plainest materials of the time; destitute of all the
-absurdities that marked the costume of the period; and his steed, which
-brought him to the castle, and bore him away from it again, was of the
-purest white, and fleeter than any in the baron’s stables.
-
-“Your steed stands in the valley, Minstrel Fay,” said Howel; “descend and
-vanish on his back, swifter than you came hither, or I shall hurl you
-from the battlements, and—why!—have I been dreaming!” continued the
-astonished knight, with an exclamation of disappointment, mingled with
-fear, as he stood with his arm outstretched and his hand clenched, as
-though he still retained the minstrel in his hold; instead of whom, it
-grasped an aspen branch, which, broken by the gripe, he dashed on the
-ground.  Suddenly, an unearthly strain of melody arose from the woody
-dell, and he distinctly heard the following words:
-
-    “One glance from those seraphic eyes,
-    To light me o’er the plain;
-    One silver word to cheer my soul,
-    And I am gone again!”
-
-“What ho!” cried the knight, “Maldor! d’Espard!”  Two squires were
-instantly at his side.  “By heaven, witchery is at work, d’Espard! saddle
-brown Terror.  The Minstrel Fay is in the valley, and find him this night
-I am determined.”
-
-The horse was quickly brought, and, attended by his two followers, he
-descended the mountain, at a desperate pace, in the direction from whence
-the sounds proceeded.  The whole of that night did he gallop over hills,
-and through deep glens, in pursuit of Evan; but no trace of him could he
-find, and at length, wearied and exhausted with fatigue, he returned to
-Dinas Bran, believing all that he had seen a dream.
-
-At the morning’s meal, he related the story to My Fawny and her father.
-The venerable lord jested with him upon his sleep-walking, as he termed
-it, and bade him, “have better thoughts of poor Evan, for,” said he, “our
-land does not contain a sweeter minstrel, or a finer bard.  He is the
-pride of my hall, and the delight of all my noble friends.  The only
-thing I am inclined to censure him for, is his absence.  He must belong
-to noble blood, for his garb bespeaks him gentle, and his attainments are
-those of one who has received an education such as few of us can boast.”
-
-“I trust, baron,” said Einion, (a little piqued at this high
-commendation), “you will allow, he would be loath to enter the lists with
-me, in mortal encounter; and, for the accomplishments which belong to men
-of rank, I have laboured to be considered no mean scholar.”
-
-“Why as a knight and bard, I grant you, few can equal Howel ap Einion; at
-feast and tourney, you ever shine amongst the first of England’s youth,”
-said the good natured baron; “but, my brave boy, do not dislike poor
-Howell, because his education has been different from yours.”
-
-“Not I, my lord; I only wish he would not look so meltingly at your
-daughter.”
-
-My Fawny turned pale, but not from guilt; it was for fear that her
-lover’s suspicious mind might prove dangerous to the poor youth, of whose
-hopeless affection she was aware, and vainly regretted.  Her lover
-noticed the change; and so did her father, who instantly said,
-
-“Well, well, to end the dispute about who is most fitted to be my
-daughter’s husband, I have resolved that of all her suitors, he who shall
-prove best leaper in the approaching British Olympic at Plas-Gwynn, shall
-have my daughter’s hand.  Will you enter the lists?”
-
-“I will venture to risk my happiness upon the leap, or upon my success in
-any one in the whole list of games; and, I doubt not, but love will
-assist me to bear off the prize.  But, should I fail—” said he, in a tone
-of tenderness, as he took the maiden’s hand, “would My Fawny drop a tear
-upon my grave?”
-
-The lovely girl lifted her dark eyes to those of her lover’s, and the
-impetuous knight felt at once assured of her undivided affection.
-
-The intervening days passed rapidly, while costly preparations were made
-for the games that were to take place at Plas Gwynn.
-
-During this time, Evan was never seen, although Einion often fancied, at
-the still hour of night, he heard a harp, and the soft voice of the
-minstrel, near the window of his mistress.
-
-It is sufficient to say that Howell’s belief in his superiority over the
-rest of the competitors was justly founded; and he won the lady by
-covering the immense distance of fifty feet at a hop, step, and jump,
-over the brook called Abernodwydd; in commemoration of which feat three
-stones, at the precise intervals, were immediately erected on the spot,
-where they still remain to this day, in a dingle called, “_Naid
-Abernodwydd_, or _The Leap of Abernodwydd_.”—See Jones’s Bardic Museum,
-Vol. II.
-
-The games being finished, the lovers returned to Dinas Bran, and the
-happy day at length arrived.
-
-Bards of the highest order were seated in the banqueting hall, and
-minstrels tuned their harps to joy and gratulation; but Evan was not
-there.  The baron sat at the head of the board, his daughter and
-son-in-law on either hand.  And many an anxious wish he felt, for his
-favourite bard, and many an eager glance did he cast around the
-illuminated hall, hoping to discover him amongst the crowd; but in vain;
-and he felt uneasy at his absence.  Every guest expressed wonder that he
-was not there to celebrate so happy an event, and he became the topic of
-conversation with all assembled.
-
-At length, the time for departure arrived, and the last bard had recited
-his complimentary verses, when the door was flung open at the lower end
-of the room, and Evan, his harp hung behind him, with a tottering step
-advanced towards the upper end of the hall, where the new married couple
-sat gazing in speechless wonder at his altered form.  There was an
-unearthly expression in his face; the bloom which used to mantle on his
-cheeks, was no longer there; his eyes were sunk deeply in their sockets,
-and the vermilion of his lip was turned to ashy paleness.  A seat was
-given him; and, without speaking, he placed his harp before him, and
-touching its strings, a sound of heavenly music swelled up to the lofty
-roof.  None ventured to breathe audibly, while he sang
-
-
-
-THE MINSTREL’S KNELL.
-
-
-    “My Fawny Vechan! brightest maid,
-    In scarlet robes and gold array’d!
-    My Fawny Vechan! fairest fair,
-    That ever breath’d the mountain air!
-    For thee do spirits pine and fade,
-    As blossoms in the chilling shade,
-    Debarr’d from Phœbus’ genial light,
-    Sink victims to the withering blight.
-    My Fawny Vechan! hear my prayer!
-    Thy lover’s—tho’ _a child of air_!
-    May peace on earth, and bliss above,
-    Wait on the mortal whom I love!
-    My outward form of misery
-    Tells what the spirit feels for thee!
-    Farewell, farewell! no more the pride
-    Of sweet Dwrdwy’s mossy side,
-    In distant vales, I’ll breathe my woes,
-    And seek, ah, vain, vain hope! repose!
-    Ah! cou’d I die, I’d not repine,
-    If Evan’s name might live with thine.”
-
-From the commencement of his song, the figure of Evan became fainter and
-fainter, and the torches and huge candles that illuminated the ball
-assumed a dimmer light.  The guests, terror stricken, were riveted to
-their seats; none presumed to speak their fears; and the whole assembly
-appeared, as they had been transformed, in the positions they occupied
-while living, into cold marble, so immoveable and inanimate did they
-seem.  On a sudden, the figure of Evan vanished!—The substantial harp
-falling upon the floor restored the guests to motion; while Einion’s
-attention was called to the restoration of his lovely bride, who, at the
-melancholy close of the fairy’s song, had fainted, and still lay
-insensible in the arms of her father, the baron.
-
-The stone, at the upper end of the banqueting hall, is said to mark the
-spot upon which, for the last time, was heard the melody of “THE MINSTREL
-FAY!”
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-“A very pretty fable; and now let us return, to witness the procession at
-Llangollen,” said I.
-
-Having taken refreshment, we proceeded to the church-yard, and stationed
-ourselves near a monument to the memory of Lady Eleanor Butler, Miss
-Ponsonby, and their faithful servant, Mrs. Mary Carrol.  From this
-interesting spot, we beheld a novel sight.  Two or three hundred
-villagers had assembled, and were scattered about the churchyard in
-groups; some, stretched upon their backs, were sleeping on the flat
-tombstones, their hardy features protected from the scorching rays of the
-sun by the gay cotton handkerchief or the straw hat; some stood in knots,
-conversing upon the results likely to take place from petticoat
-government (for the proclamation had been received only the day
-previous); others gazing with eager eyes, upon a flight of steps, up
-which a number of smart village girls, with laughing eyes and ruddy
-faces, tripped lightly to a doorway, which entering, they, one by one,
-like shadows, disappeared.  Every moment, the cemetery became more
-crowded, and, as I noticed, principally with the infirm and aged.  Before
-me stood a palsy stricken creature, whose white locks waved about her
-face at every motion of her feeble head.  Then came a form, once,
-doubtless, erect and handsome, but now by age so bent, that his head
-found a melancholy parallel with his hips, and a beechen staff supported
-his debilitated body.  Another and another still pressed on, the sick,
-the lame, thronging to the gay scene, anticipating joy!  As they passed,
-however, my busy fancy led them one by one, into a separate grave,
-realizing the awful conception of the Dance of Death!
-
-A strange, discordant sound, awakened me from my reverie, and, although
-horribly harsh, I gave it welcome, for it banished a gloomy spirit from
-my mind.  Turning my eyes towards the flight of steps, I saw the girls
-descending, each decorated with a white shawl with a blue border, and
-bearing a wand, (it being the symbol and costume of the society), at the
-top of which were laurel, and laurestinus leaves, intermingled with
-roses, lillies, etc., etc.  The beadle of the parish, who on these
-occasions is no insignificant personage, was seen bustling about,
-arranging the form of procession, bringing forward this one, pushing back
-that, keeping order, and knocking the boys’ hats over their eyes for
-having approached the lines too closely; while the motley band, in
-various keys played, “Oh the roast Beef of Old England;” rather
-mal-à-propos, as I thought, as they were about to enter the church, and
-hear a sermon which is regularly preached on this day.
-
-The line now stretched to a considerable extent, and the lady patronesses
-appeared to be much delighted at viewing the busy scene, as they hurried
-to and fro, with benevolence beaming in their eyes; while old age, and
-decrepitude, cast away their sorrows and hailed the jocund scene.
-
-All being ready, the rector and his curate placed themselves in the van,
-the lady patronesses followed, and to the sound of the inspiring bassoon,
-drum, keyed bugle, and cracked trumpet, they proceeded by the iron gate,
-through ranks of happy human beings ranged on either side, like old oaks,
-young saplings, nettles and pea blossoms, huddled together in
-“promiscuous alliance.”  Having taken a prescribed circuit, they again
-entered the churchyard by another gate, and passed into the church; when
-a discourse, very much to the purpose, was given by the rector; after
-which, they adjourned to the Hand hotel, where they had a tea-total
-entertainment, and passed the evening in strolling about the gardens,
-listening to the inimitable band of wind instruments, which brayed out an
-execrable accompaniment to the exquisite music of the Dee, as it swept
-beneath them, overshadowed by the drooping foliage of the opposite bank.
-Altogether, it was a most gratifying sight—for the simple souls were
-happy.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER V.
-
-
-Valle Crucis—The Abbey—Lines written in the ruins—A loquacious
-porteress—A view of the Abbey—The pillar of Eliseg—A parting—Road to
-Corwen—Vale of the Dee—The musical pedestrian—War song—Over the hills and
-far away—An adventure—Corwen—The Church—College—Cross and Circle—Air
-Llwyn-own—Route to Landrillo—An old soldier and his son—Village of
-Landrillo—A fair—Vale of Edeyrnion—Arrival at Bala.
-
-    “Fill the Hirlas horn, my boy,
-    Nor let the tuneful lips be dry
-       That warble Owen’s praise;
-    Whose walls with warlike spoils are hung,
-    And open wide his gates are flung,
-       In Cambria’s peaceful days.
-
-    “This hour bright is meant for joy,
-    Then fill the Hirlas horn, my boy,
-       That shineth like the sea,
-    Whose azure handles, tipt with gold,
-    Invite the grasp of Britons bold,
-       The sons of Liberty!”
-
-                        _From the Welsh of Prince Owen Cyveilog_, by R. W.
-
-ON the following morning, we bade adieu to Llangollen, and proceeded
-first to Valle Crucis.
-
-                      [Picture: Valle Crucis Abbey]
-
-Like most abbeys, it is beautifully situated.  The monks of old well
-appreciated the value of rich lands and clear streams.  An old woman
-received us at the gate, and instantly began to retail her information.
-“Gryffyd ap Madoc, Lord of Bromfield and Yale, founded this abbey in the
-year 1200.”  There are parts of both church and abbey still remaining;
-the former was cruciform, and exhibits several styles of architecture.
-The eastern end is the most ancient; it is adorned by three lancet slips,
-forming one grand window.  The entrance was in the west, under a broad
-and beautiful window, above which is a smaller one, of a marigold form,
-decorated with tracery and fret-work, and beneath it may be deciphered
-the following inscription:
-
-    A.D.A.M.D.N.S fecit hoc opus, pace beatâ quiescat Amen.
-
-The cloisters are turned into a farmhouse and offices.
-
-This noble edifice was dismantled by Henry VIII.  My companion, feeling
-desirous to bathe in the clear waters, left me to my contemplations,
-encompassed by the ruined walls of the abbey, and tall ash trees, which
-shaded the area of the church.  I wandered from thence to the fish pond,
-which is near to the abbey, and, while my companion was enjoying his
-ablutions, my muse jogged my arm, and reminded me that some tribute was
-due from me to this lovely spot.  Taking out my pocket book and pencil, I
-produced the following
-
-
-
-LINES WRITTEN AT VALLE CRUCIS.
-
-
-    Monastic Valle Crucis! while I linger in thy shade,
-    The spirits of the olden time seem moving in the glade;
-    Rebuilt appear thy ruined walls, and thou art strong again,
-    As when the organ through those aisles poured forth its solemn
-    strain.
-
-    Here reigneth peace and solitude, as if some holy spell
-    Still charmed the blessed region where religion loved to dwell;
-    No music, save the streamlet’s voice, disturbs the deep serene,
-    And breezy sounds sweet murmuring throughout the woodlands green.
-
-    Oh fallen Valle Crucis! full six hundred years are gone
-    Since the warlike lord of Dinas Bean laid thy foundation stone;
-    And mighty didst thou flourish, till that fell destroyer came,
-    Than mouldering time more ruthless, and of sacrilegious name.
-
-    Then, holy Valle Crucis! was thy sacred roof thrown down,
-    Thy peaceful inmates scattered, rent the sacerdotal gown;
-    The mournful ivy clustered o’er thy grey and ruined walls,
-    And ash trees sprang, where torches blazed, within thy sainted halls.
-
-    Hushed are the lips of all who dwelt within that cloistered fane;
-    And holy feet will never press the polished floors again,
-    At morning prayer and vesper hymn, which thrilled thy very stones—
-    Forgotten now those pious ones, and whitened are their bones!
-
-    Yet ivy’d Valle Crucis! thou art fairer in decay
-    Than all the splendid structures which adorn our modern day;
-    In every mouldering fragment of thy consecrated pile
-    There’s a charm to all who view thy walls, or tread thy broken aisle.
-
-    Peace dwell around thee ever! may no heedless hand molest
-    The solemn bird which builds in thee its ivy-mantled nest,
-    Whose breathings seem the deep-drawn sighs of bosoms fraught with
-    pain,
-    Lamenting the departed, who will ne’er return again.
-
-The porteress of this ancient building is Ann Dale, who has lived in this
-solitary but delightful spot for two years; and, although a Shropshire
-woman, has made herself, during that period, sufficiently acquainted with
-the Welsh language to discourse fluently with the country people, in
-their native tongue; and has moreover committed to memory everything
-interesting, relative to the spot where she resides.  It is evidently her
-delight to point out to strangers the objects most worthy their
-attention; and her love of the venerable pile has induced her to take
-spade in hand, and clear away the rubbish that perhaps had for centuries
-been accumulating round the columns, leaving them clear to their
-foundations.  Time has been over busy with her features; but her limbs
-are as active as those of a girl of sixteen, and her spirits are as light
-as her heels.
-
-“Ah, sir!” said she, after enumerating the good offices she had received
-from the neighbouring gentry, and the friendly feelings of the more
-humble classes, “I’ve always made it a rule, throughout my life, to be
-civil to every body.  Civility costs nothing, you know, and I’m always
-surprised to hear people, when they are asked a simple question, if they
-chance to have a better coat on their backs than the person who addresses
-them, give an answer as if they were speaking to cattle, or worse brutes,
-when you know, sir, (approaching the cottage at the head of the pond) we
-are all the same flesh and blood, (pausing on the second step.)  I don’t
-say but there ought to be distinctions, for we can’t be all gentlefolks,
-(entering.)  But then, where’s the difference, when we are as them that
-lie in the abbey there? or like these poor bones that I have in a box
-here, (opening it and displaying some human relics.)  They all comed out
-of the abbey ground, Sir.  Why these might be a bishop’s, or a great
-warrior’s, for aught we know to the contrary.  Well, sir, after all,
-there’s nothing like good common sense.  Solomon prayed for good sense,
-and he had it; and, thank God, I have it, too.  Now, sir, come this way
-(leading back to the margin of the monks’ pond) and I’ll show you
-something that shows what a thing Providence is.  You see that stone jar
-there, sir—just there in the water; well, sir, you know there are no
-flies in the winter; so the poor fish would be sorely put about for food,
-but for Providence.  Well, upon that jar I’ve seen thousands and
-thousands of things like shells and patches of grey moss; and I’ve seen
-the trout cluster about it, and feed upon ’em often.  And, whenever I
-thinks of that, sir, it brings to my mind the 104th Psalm.”
-
-“What is the name of that mountain, my good lady, to S.E. of the abbey?”
-I inquired.
-
-“Why that, sir, is called Fron Fawr.  It is 1328 feet above the level of
-the sea, sir.”
-
-I thanked her for her information; and, prompted by an incontrollable
-appetite, ventured to ask if she could supply us with anything eatable.
-
-“Why, I’m afraid,” said she “that I have nothing that you’ll like, sir;
-for I’m a poor lone woman, and what suits me, wouldn’t perhaps sit upon
-your honour’s stomach.  But there _were_ a party here this morning, and
-they left behind ’em a pork-pie, because the dish got broke, and a piece
-of apple tart; and I have gotten a piece of oatcake, and a piece of
-cheese; if you could manage to put up with that, sir, you’re quite
-welcome.”
-
-Talk of Christmas times, of roast beef and plum pudding!  Give me June,
-with cold pork-pie, apple tart, and cheese, in a summer-house overlooking
-a monk’s pond, and surrounded by waving woods and lofty trees, in view of
-the ruined abbey,
-
-       “Where monks of old
-       As I’ve been told
-    Quaffed the merry, merry nut brown ale.”
-
-By the time my travelling friend had returned from his bath, the table
-was furnished with fare calculated to satisfy his appetite, at the
-expense of pork-pie, tart, etc.  Mixing the contents of our united flasks
-with the pure cool waters of the refreshing spring, inhaling the perfume
-of Havannah, and making a sofa out of two wooden chairs, we amused
-ourselves with a retrospective view of the scenes we had passed through
-since we met.  It was now twelve o’clock, and, as it was my intention to
-reach Bala by nightfall, we rose to depart; and with many thanks and kind
-wishes from the old porteress of Valle Crucis, quitted that interesting
-ruin, and proceeded to
-
-
-
-THE PILLAR OF ELISEG.
-
-
-It stands in a meadow, a short distance from the abbey, and was a
-memorial of the dead; an improvement on the rude columns of Druidical
-times, sculptured into form, and surrounded with inscriptions.  It is
-among the first lettered stones that succeed the Meini-Hirion, Meini-Gwyr
-and Llechan, and stood on a great tumulus, perhaps always environed with
-wood, according to the custom of the most ancient times, when standing
-pillars were placed under every green tree.
-
-                       [Picture: Pillar of Eliseg]
-
-This pillar was erected above a thousand years ago, to the memory of
-Eliseg, the father of a Prince of Powis, called Rochwel Yscythrog, who
-met his death at the battle of Chester, in 607.  During the civil wars,
-this pillar was thrown down, and broken, and the shaft which was
-originally above twelve feet in length, is now only eight.  At the
-suggestion of the Rev. John Price, Bodleian librarian, and great
-antiquary, Mr. Lloyd, of Trevor Hall, had it placed in its present
-position.
-
-At this spot, my companion and I were to separate.  I felt the
-approaching loss severely; for where could I expect to find another so
-amusing and so kind?
-
-“You’ll come and see me at Rhuthyn?” said he.  “I have a snug cottage, a
-good housekeeper, a bed, and as good a glass of port as you will find in
-the neighbourhood;—promise to visit me at your return.”
-
-I promised not to forget his hospitable invitation, and, with a feeling
-of regret I never before experienced at quitting a new acquaintance of so
-short standing, I squeezed his hand—and we parted.
-
-From Valle Crucis Abbey, I proceeded to the banks of the Dee, and
-crossing the rude bridge over the river struck into the high road to
-Corwen, and proceeded at a brisk pace.  The country became highly
-interesting.  The mountains are lofty; and beneath, upon the right,
-Glyndwrdwy, _the valley of the Dee_, discloses its picturesque beauty.
-This was the property of the celebrated Owen Glyndwr.
-
-The vale is so serpentine that it presents a succession of most exquisite
-views, and after a walk of three miles, on looking back, Castle Dinas
-Bran seems placed upon a lower eminence.  The valley of Llangollen may be
-seen likewise from hence for many miles, terminated by the distant
-mountains.
-
-After passing the fourth mile stone, the road takes a straight direction;
-and at this spot I came up with a person who, seated upon the road, was
-extracting some very tolerable music from one end of his walking cane.
-He was a tall thin man, with sharp features and large blue eyes.  He had
-on a broad brimmed glazed hat, a blue frock coat, with nankeen
-pantaloons, short gaiters, and shoes.  The rest of his wardrobe was
-wrapped in a pocket handkerchief; and his name, as I afterwards learnt,
-was Whiffler.
-
-Upon my approaching him, he withdrew his musical cane from his mouth, and
-observed that it seemed likely to rain; and, by the misty appearance of
-the atmosphere before us, I concluded he was right in his observations;
-for in that direction the country was nearly obscured, while behind us,
-the sun sent forth his brightest beams upon mountain and stream; though
-the valleys partly slept in shadow, as he slowly journeyed to his western
-couch.
-
-“Travelling far, sir?” inquired my new companion.
-
-“At my leisure,” I replied.
-
-“Fine road, this, sir.”
-
-“Capital.”
-
-“Are you fond of music?”
-
-“Passionately.”
-
-This was sufficient encouragement to make my new acquaintance turn his
-staff once more into an instrument of sound, and he played a wild kind of
-march, which he assured me was called “The War Tramp of Owen Glyndwr,”
-the Welsh chieftain, who was so formidable an enemy to Henry IV.—Taking
-up the idea, I endeavoured to compose some appropriate lines for the air.
-(See music plate.) {130}
-
-“Have the kindness, sir,” said my companion, “to step out with your left
-foot at the beginning of the bar, and you will find it excellent marching
-time.”
-
-I complied with the whimsical request, and he seemed much pleased at my
-readiness to oblige his humour; for he blew away unceasingly, and I dare
-say would never have thought of stopping, had I not pointed out a
-handsome house to him, upon the opposite hill, and requested him to tell
-me the name of its proprietor.
-
-“Do you mean that semibreve, in the middle of that forest of
-demi-semi-quavers?”
-
-I laughed at his conceit, and replied in the affirmative.
-
-“Oh! that belongs to Mr. Jones, and is called Llandysilio Hall—a very
-worthy man.  This glen, sir, has been the scene of many sanguinary
-conflicts.”
-
-Here he struck up “The Battle of Prague,” and we marched on for about a
-mile further, when he suddenly stopped short before a small public house,
-upon the road side.
-
-“I have an idea,” said he, “that a small drop of brandy, mixed with a
-little mulled ale, sugar and nutmeg, would make us get over the next four
-miles—prestissimo—eh?  Con spirito, um?”
-
-I agreed to the con spirito, but assured him a moderato movement would
-suit my inclination better for the remainder of the walk to Corwen.  He
-then led the way into the house; and certainly, of all the comforts a
-tourist can experience, that of seeing a neatly sanded room, with shining
-oaken seats and tables, walls white as snow, pans and pots glittering in
-well ordered arrangement against them, a fine polished kitchen range
-enclosing a good fire, and a smiling, civil, hospitable hostess anxious
-to attend your commands, however trifling they may be, is the most
-desirable.  I never saw any country where so much attention is paid to
-the cleanliness of the interior of their cottages, if I except Holland,
-and in this respect the peasantry resemble each other.
-
-Having despatched this agreeable beverage, we resumed our walk, and in
-about ten minutes, the rain, which had long been threatening us, fell in
-torrents, and we resembled a couple of half drowned rats as we faced the
-storm.
-
-My companion, with a half-comic and half melancholy cast of countenance,
-observed, “I declare, I can hardly make my instrument speak, although I
-have got a natural shake in my voice, as you may hear.  Very cold, sir;
-isn’t it?  Look yonder,” continued he, pointing to a clump of fir trees.
-“There, sir, once stood the celebrated wooden house, attached to the
-mansion of that mighty warrior and magician who could
-
-    “Call spirits from the vasty deep—”
-
-for the purpose of lodging the guests.  The mansion stood upon our left,
-and was formerly of grand dimensions, they say; though now alas! not a
-vestige of it remains.  The site of the visitor’s lodging rooms commands
-a fine prospect of the valley.  Perhaps you would like to walk up to it?”
-
-“Certainly;” and, accordingly, we jumped over a stile and climbed to the
-summit of the mound, from which a glorious view of the valley was
-obtained.  Upon reaching the top, the traveller is surprised to find,
-that what he looked upon as a mere mound, when viewed from the road,
-assumes the form of a tremendous precipice as he looks down upon the dark
-waters of the Dee, (which wind around its base), and glances over the
-fertile valley stretched far beneath, where Glyndwr vanquished the
-oppressor Grey.  I had fallen into a reverie, from which I was awakened
-by the shrill sounds of the musician’s fife stick, which startled me with
-its discordant notes, and brought me back from the fourteenth century to
-the nineteenth, with a celerity far from pleasing.
-
-As we resumed our walk, we heard the rumbling of wheels, and the tramp of
-horses behind us, and pausing to see what vehicle was approaching, we
-beheld a kind of van, drawn by two enormous animals, as large as any of
-the breed employed in some of the London breweries.  They were driven by
-a young man, of about nineteen years of age.
-
-“Will you ride as far as Corwen?” said he, at the same time pulling up
-his horses.
-
-As the rain was falling fast, and this conveyance promised to carry us to
-the town in half the time it would take us to walk thither, we gladly
-accepted the offer.  I mounted by the side of the driver, having always a
-predilection for that seat; while my more prudent musical acquaintance
-jumped into the body of the cart, and was presently lost sight of beneath
-a dozen coal sacks, that covered several ale casks.
-
-I soon found that my situation was far from being enviable.  In the first
-place, there was no foot board, and I kept slipping forward, every now
-and then, at the hazard of falling upon the horses’ heels.  The air
-became more keen, the rain rattled upon my visage with greater violence
-than ever, and silently I confessed—forgive me ye gnomes and demons of
-the storm!—that notwithstanding the grandeur of the mountain-torrent, I
-should at that time have given a preference to a little of the “mountain
-dew.”
-
-Presently, I heard the shrill sound of the fife issuing from underneath
-the sacks, to the tune of “Over the hills and far away,” and was about
-requesting the driver to stop, until I joined my companion in his lair,
-when a smart lash upon the flank of the near horse made him dart off at a
-pace which defied all the efforts of the Welsh boor to check.  With his
-right arm holding fast by the front rail of the caravan, he with his left
-pulled with all his strength to keep the horses in the road, and we
-dashed along, first upon one side, and then upon the other, for the
-middle was never kept, until I began to look out for the most comfortable
-landing place.  I then caught hold of the near horse’s rein, while he
-tugged away at the other.  The seat was slippery, and the reins were wet,
-and our united efforts would have failed in checking their speed; but
-espying a hill about half a mile a-head of us,
-
-“Now then, keep ’em together,” said I, “and let them have their race out,
-for they must stop at yonder hill.”
-
-All this time the fife was whistling like mad, “Go to the devil and shake
-yourselves;” and Mr. Whiffler was luxuriating in blessed ignorance of our
-danger.
-
-Having made up my mind to the worst, but hoping for the best, I regaled
-myself with a sup of brandy from the pistol at my side, and then handed
-it to the driver, who drank—as if he liked it.  We by this time reached
-the foot of the hill, at the same slashing pace, and began the ascent in
-a first rate style; but, when we had got about half way up, we were
-startled by a loud cry behind us, and, upon turning my head, I saw poor
-Mr. Whiffler seated in the middle of the road, flourishing his musical
-cane, and shouting most vociferously for us to stop.  It seemed that he
-was amusing himself with his favourite airs, and never felt the gradual
-retiring motion of the sacks as we ascended the hill, until he was fairly
-shot out at the tail of the van, where he lay sprawling; but, thanks to
-the friendly sacks, unhurt.
-
-Our frisky Flander’s steeds, coming to the push at the steep rising
-ground, relaxed in their rapid course, became quiet as lambs, and at the
-summit of the bill were very glad to come to a dead halt to recover their
-breath; giving my musical friend ample time to come up with us, which he
-had no sooner done, than, as if nothing had occurred worth mentioning, he
-resumed his situation in the van, and struck up “Drops of brandy.”  I
-took the hint, and presented him with my reserve, which he emptied with
-much apparent satisfaction, and returned the flask with thankfulness.
-Then resuming his unwearying amusement, he never ceased until we reached
-the inn at Corwen; not the principal one, but a small house on the right
-of the street opposite to the Owen Glyndwr; which latter has a gigantic
-head over the door, much resembling the Saracen’s of Snow Hill notoriety.
-
-I discovered the landlord of “The Welsh Harp” to be the proprietor of the
-van, and that the driver was his son.  He also followed the occupation of
-watch and fishing tackle maker, and I willingly, therefore, took up my
-quarters with this specimen of Welsh rusticity, when invited, in
-preference to quartering at the great inn with the great head, as also
-did Mr. Whiffler.
-
-The first question put to the jolly landlord, was, “What can you give us
-to eat?”  It was about three o’clock in the day.
-
-“Why, sir, I have a nice roast duck and some peas, which were intended
-for John’s,” meaning our van-driver, “dinner; but I shall be able to find
-something else for him.”
-
-“And how long, pray, will it be before it is ready?”
-
-“A quarter of an hour.”
-
-“Very well, that will do; and, in the interim, I’ll borrow one of your
-coats, and we will visit the church, if there is anything in it worth
-looking at.”
-
-No sooner said than done; and a large blue coat, with two heavy capes,
-and brass buttons of the size of crown pieces, was immediately brought
-forth, which I slipped into, it fitting me—like a sack!  No matter—my own
-was thoroughly drenched, and was hanging before a blazing fire in the
-kitchen, reeking like a leg of mutton, hot from the boiler.
-
-“Would you like to slip into a pair of my leather breeches?” inquired my
-hospitable host.
-
-This I thankfully declined, upon looking at the difference of our
-dimensions.  My piping friend was comfortably seated in the chimney
-corner, and observing “that he had never frequented church since he was
-married, having received at that time a shock he could never recover,” he
-commenced playing the beautiful air of “My ain fireside,” whilst I,
-turning most heroically to the right about, again braved the “pelting of
-the pitiless storm,” accompanied by John, our driver, who, in a few
-minutes, conducted me to the ancient edifice.
-
-On one side of the altar is the lid of a coffin, which has the following
-inscription:
-
-    “Hic jacet Jorweth Sulien, vicarius de Corvaen ora pro eo.”
-
-In the church wall is shewn the private doorway through which Owen
-Glyndwr entered the building whenever he attended divine worship, and in
-the rock, which overhangs the churchyard, there is a recess, which bears
-the name of Glyndwr’s chair; and the stone which now forms the lintel of
-the doorway leading to his pew, is said to retain the mark of his dagger,
-half an inch in depth, which he threw from the said chair; but upon what
-occasion it is not stated.
-
-In the churchyard is a range of building called Corwen College, having
-over the archway the following inscription:
-
-                               Corwen College,
-                       For six widows of the Clergymen
-                          Of the church of England,
-                    Who died possessed of cures of souls,
-                       In the county of Merionethshire.
-                              Built and endowed
-                          A.D MDCCL by the legacy of
-                              William Egton Esq.
-                               Of Plas-warren.
-
-In the cemetery there is a cross, fixed in a circular stone, westward of
-the steeple; and it is supposed that the name of Corwen is a corruption
-of Corvaen, and derived from the cross.  Cor signifies a circle, and maen
-(which is likewise considered to have been changed into vaen) if joined
-to cor, means a cross in the circle.
-
-Having satisfied my curiosity here, I returned to the public house, and
-the first object which met my delighted eyes was the promised duck,
-accompanied by a dish of most elegant trout; a dainty for which I had
-been longing ever since I entered this territory of rocks and torrents.
-My friend was already placed at the table, and he clapped his hands, and
-rubbed them with evident delight and satisfaction at seeing me arrive so
-opportunely.  The fish despatched, duck and green peas in close column
-brought up the rear.  But I and my gallant comrade—a better trencherman
-ne’er poised a fork—attacked in line, cut up the one, and routed the
-other, with the most determined bravery.  The right and left wings were
-attacked and cut off from the main body, which with all its material we
-dispersed in the glorious conflict, remaining masters of the field.
-
-Although I thus warmly express my satisfaction at partaking of this not
-easily-to-be-forgotten luxury, let me not be mistaken for a gourmand; but
-a wet and tired traveller, however much his mind may be enchanted by the
-scenery through which he passes, never beholds a more delightful prospect
-than a comfortable meal at his journey’s end.  It so happened, however,
-that this was not to be my journey’s end, for a blaze of light darted
-into the room at the moment John had carried off the spoils from our
-field of battle, and the glorious orb of day shone forth in cloudless
-majesty.
-
-Wine in such a house, being out of the question, we ordered a jug of warm
-punch, and having drank success to my musical friend in a brimming
-goblet, I began to think, as my time was limited, and his path lay
-towards Cerrig-y-Drudion, and mine towards Bala, I had better reach that
-place before dark.  My companion having divested himself of his shoes and
-stockings, and adopted those of the landlord, and feeling himself
-comfortable before the fire, resolved upon remaining where he was until
-bedtime.  Wishing him, therefore, a pleasant evening, and a good night’s
-repose, I once more took the road for another walk of ten miles; while I
-heard the shrill sounds of his fife stick playing the Welsh air of
-“Farewell Glanddyn.”
-
-At the end of the village, I was attracted by the eyes of the prettiest
-little Welsh lass that I remember having seen in the country.  Health
-bloomed in her cheek, and animation darted from her sloe-black eyes.  She
-was talking to a village lad, who appeared to be much abashed by some
-reproof she had given him; and presently, with a significant nod of the
-head and an admonitory glance of the eye, she turned briskly from him,
-and frisked by me, humming a Welsh air—the first that I had heard since I
-entered the principality—while the youth, with a smile and a sigh, turned
-in a contrary direction, exclaiming, “Ah, Jenny, if you refuse so many,
-you may happen to pray for one yet.”
-
-I afterwards discovered that the Welsh air was called after the mansion
-of Mr. Edward Jones, the compiler of that most interesting book of
-Cambrian lore, the Bardic Museum.  I instantly determined to put the idea
-I had formed in my mind of the Welsh lass into verse, and to adapt the
-lines to the music. (See plate.) {143}
-
-Every thing looked cheerful; the birds carroled joyously from the trees
-and bushes; and I joined in the chorus.  A robin appeared to be much
-taken with my vocal powers, and for a good while kept me company,
-alighting constantly some ten or twelve yards before me, and listening
-attentively until I had passed as far; then, passing me again in his
-flight, he took up his station as before.  “Poor bird!” thought I, “I
-remember in my boyhood I have followed some of your race as eagerly as
-you now follow me; and my ears drank in their notes, intoxicating my
-senses with delight.  I shall never forget the old mulberry tree that
-grew in our play grounds, shadowing a pretty little hermitage in which I
-used to sit apart from my schoolfellows and listen to the notes of that
-delightful warbler, with whom I grew familiar, and fed every evening with
-crumbs of bread, saved from my dinner.”
-
-How extraordinary it appears that the past should always seem more
-delightful than the present!  I am convinced, that I was more miserable
-during my school-boy days than I have been since, and yet my mind returns
-to the brighter portions of the picture only.  The April beams that dried
-up the tears of my youth live in the memory, while the clouds and showers
-are buried in oblivion.  Youth, youth!—why should we ever grow old? why
-are we not as fresh and green at sixty as we are at twenty?—why may we
-not enjoy the blessings of vigour, the elastic bound, the rosy tint, the
-boundless flow of spirits, the freshness of imagination, until the moment
-when we drop into the grave?—But sentimentalism is a bad subject for
-sale, and therefore I have no business to introduce any chapters of such
-a nature in this little work.
-
-At a short distance from Corwen, a road branches off to the left, along
-which the traveller should trudge to the village of Llandrillo, and he
-will be repaid by the sight of one of the most fertile valleys in Wales.
-It is a mile farther to Bala by this route, but the superior beauty of
-the scenery will amply recompense him for the extra distance; for, with
-the exception of a view of Bala lake, obtained from an eminence on the
-road, which runs along the opposite side of the valley, it is dull and
-uninviting.  But, on the contrary, by the Llandrillo route, the eye is
-delighted with a succession of scenes, varied and interesting in the
-extreme.  Huge masses of rock hang over the road, upon the left, in
-threatening grandeur, while waving woods, and falling streams, give
-endless variety to the picture.
-
-After proceeding four miles, I crossed a bridge over a fine trout stream,
-the banks of which are shaded with trees; and, turning into an avenue
-upon the right, seated myself by the margin of the brook, secured from
-the hot rays of the mid-day sun, and fancied myself the melancholy
-Jacques.  There only wanted a wounded stag, to make the illusion perfect.
-
-Here I was shortly after joined by an old man and his son, who, after
-some hours’ fishing, had contrived to fill a moderately sized basket with
-very fine trout.  The father was tall and thin, with prominent features,
-sharp grey eyes, and grey locks; his port was erect, “stiff as a ramrod,”
-and if he had been unfortunate enough to have had a lame leg, he would
-have made an excellent representation of Corporal Foss.  The son, a youth
-of about nineteen, was clad in a suite of clothes so tattered, that my
-curiosity was excited to learn at which rent he got into them.  His
-fishing basket was slung at his back, and his rod was composed of odds
-and ends; his hat, from long exposure to the weather, had lost its crown,
-while the rim was torn into ribands.  If ever the god of love assumed the
-disguise of ragged poverty, he could not have chosen a better model, both
-in person and attire.  His height was about five feet, nine inches; his
-face a perfect oval; his hair, which stole in clustering curls from
-beneath its wretched covering, was of the brightest auburn; his forehead
-was broad and high; his eyebrows finely arched, and his dark blue eyes
-were lighted up with the fire of animation; his nose, teeth, and chin
-were perfectly beautiful; his neck and shoulders would be invaluable to a
-sculptor; and his whole graceful frame seemed formed for strength and
-activity.  His demeanour was respectful and modest, and the contrast
-between the noble creature and his sorry garb was painfully striking.
-There was, however, a look of independence and a freedom in his gait,
-which suited well with the surrounding scene.
-
-The old man seated himself near me, and lamented that he could not obtain
-any fire to light his pipe.  This element I quickly supplied him with,
-and, lighting a cigar for myself, we resembled a knot of Indian warriors
-smoking “the calumet of peace.”  I entered into conversation, offering my
-flask, by way of making a favourable impression.  They thankfully availed
-themselves of my offer, and my expectations were not disappointed.  The
-old man told me that he had been a soldier in his youth, and fought in
-many battles, both in Egypt and Spain, and was now in the receipt of a
-pension from government, for honourable wounds, which at various times he
-had received in the service of his country.
-
-While his father whiffed his tobacco, the youth angled down the stream,
-but soon returned and, respectfully and gracefully declining my
-invitation to renew his draught, he stood looking down upon us, his arms
-folded across his chest, embracing his rod, and listening modestly to the
-old man’s narration.  I sat an hour with these two beings, and, having
-purchased a casting line and some flies from the elder fisherman, he put
-two extra ones into my hands, saying: “There, sir, are two flies, with
-which I killed some fine trout, yesterday.  I’ll make you a present of
-them; and, when you are killing your fish, perhaps you’ll think of the
-old soldier.”  So, with mutual thanks, we parted.
-
-As I entered the village of Llandrillo, I was much delighted with the
-lively scene.  The long street was crowded with peasantry, in their
-holiday clothes.  On each side were stalls, formed of tubs turned upside
-down, and boards placed upon them, to support their merchandise; square
-patches strewed with straw and covered with crockery and glass; tables
-well stored with woollen hose and mittens; and stands of gingerbread and
-ginger-pop were liberally stationed in different quarters, to gratify and
-refresh the happy throng.  At times, a sudden opening in the crowd took
-place, the whole mass of people jamming each other upon either side of
-the street, to make way for a trotting pony, or an ambling nag, to curvet
-and prance down the middle and up again, to show his paces.  At the upper
-end of the fair, a hardware man harangued a crowd of people from his
-travelling warehouse (a covered cart,) endeavouring to persuade them that
-he came to Llandrillo solely for their benefit, and for no selfish motive
-upon earth, and labouring to convince them, in brazier-like eloquence,
-that the articles he offered to their notice were considerably under
-prime cost, and could not be purchased elsewhere for treble the
-money;—but, though he sold at a great sacrifice to himself, he begged
-them not to consider his loss, but their own gain; such an opportunity
-would never again present itself, therefore now was their only time to
-buy cheap!
-
-A party of Welsh girls attracted my attention, gathered together in front
-of a wall, upon which a line of men’s hats were ranged, of various
-qualities and prices; and great glee and laughter were elicited, as each
-fitted the new beaver upon her head, it being considered the ne plus
-ultra of taste, and a powerful auxiliary to the coquetry of a Welsh girl.
-
-Leaving Llandrillo, and proceeding towards Bala, the traveller enters the
-
-
-
-VALE OF EDEYRNION.
-
-
-The mountains here, upon either side, are covered with plantations, and
-the beautiful Dee winds gracefully in the centre of the valley, through
-delightful meadows, while corn fields wave upon the sloping banks, and
-everything presents to the eye the appearance of freshness and fertility,
-cheerfulness and content.  At the bridge near Llandderfel, a small
-village, which is first observed upon the opposite bank of the Dee, a
-splendid view presents itself.  The river here is broad, shallow, and
-deep, by turns, and looking up or down the vale, its meandering
-sportiveness charms the eye.  At the extremity of the valley is a lofty
-mountain, planted to the summit, which seems so closely to envelop it, as
-to prevent all egress.  To stand upon this bridge at sunset, and listen
-to the whistle of the sheep boy as he trudges merrily along the road, the
-song of the husbandman, or the joyous laugh of the milkmaids—sounds that
-float upon the silent air for miles, at such an hour,—the twittering of
-the birds, before they hide their heads beneath their wings to seek
-repose—the low craik of the rail, amidst the corn—and sweeter than all,
-the music of the river, discharging liquid sounds from its transparent
-bosom,—creates a sensation which we are at a loss how to express.  Excess
-of pleasure becomes painful; and, overpowered with delight, nature
-asserts her influence, and we experience the luxury of tears!—at least, I
-did, and I pity from my soul the man who is unfortunately incapable of a
-similar feeling.
-
-Passing through the little village of Llanver, and crossing a stream over
-the bridge close by the lodge of Mr. Price of Rhewlas, I at length
-arrived at the Bull’s Head in the town, to which house I had been
-recommended by a passing traveller; and, tired with my day’s exertions,
-called for a tea-dinner and slippers.
-
-
-
-BALA.
-
-
-Both these luxuries were furnished me by the fair hands of Martha Jones,
-the landlady’s unmarried sister, a lively, black-eyed, pretty lass, who,
-in being a spinster, proves that the Bala lads are greatly deficient in
-taste, or that Martha has set her cap at something better than is to be
-found in Bala.
-
-Two gentlemen were seated in the room when I entered, each of whom were
-discussing the merits of a glass of brandy and water.  One of them (a
-young man who I afterwards discovered was a captain’s clerk in the East
-India service, upon leave,) was making himself particularly entertaining
-to his companion, by relating a number of anecdotes about a relative, a
-clergyman, whose residence is somewhere in the neighbourhood.
-
-“Ha! ha! ha! you remember the time when the dinner was given at —; well,
-the old boy as usual, had got too much grog aboard, and without a rudder,
-began to crowd sail for the stable—my eyes! how he did traverse! but at
-last, a gale took his topsail right aback, and capsising him into the
-kennel, he began to roar out for help.  ‘What’s the matter?’ cried twenty
-voices at a time.  ‘Oh help! help me up,’ cried the old boy, ‘for I’m the
-Lord’s servant!’  ‘Ay, ay,’ cried one, ‘and you’re like all the rest of
-’em, want a good deal of looking after.’  Ha, ha, ha!”
-
-This anecdote, required another glass of brandy and water to wash it
-down; which being brought, this irreverend humorist rehearsed a number of
-other circumstances concerning his eccentric relative, amongst which was
-a story of his ascending the pulpit, to preach a sermon, “and kneeling
-down,” said he, “he placed his hand upon the cushion, in the attitude of
-prayer, closed his port holes, and fell into a—sound sleep!  The
-congregation waited—and waited—until their patience was quite exhausted,
-and one after another began to heave anchor.  The clerk, at last,
-ventured to awaken his pastor just in time for him to see the last of his
-parishioners leaving the church.”
-
-I was truly sorry to find, upon inquiry, that this was but too true a
-tale of the old man, whose years are many, and who must be well aware,
-that a very short time can elapse, before he will become a tenant of the
-grave.
-
-Wearied with the conversation, I rang for my bed candle, and retired to
-rest.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VI.
-
-
-Bala—The Lake—A Meeting of Magistrates—The Doctor—Rhewlas—Lines written
-at Rhewlas—Farewell to the Bull’s Head—A Jolter—Llanthyn—Vale of
-Drwstynrnt—Legend of handsome Hugh and the Fairy—Cader
-Idris—Dolgelley—Song “Mountain Mary”—The Town Hall—Parliament House—St.
-Mary’s Church—Inns—Angling Station, Doluwcheogryd—The Cataracts of
-Rhaiadr Du and Pistyll y Cain—Nannau Park—Anecdote of Owen Glyndwr and
-Howell Sele—Road to Barmouth—Arrival—Inns—A Walk on the sands.
-
-    “I lay on the rock where the storms have their dwelling,
-    The birth place of phantoms, the home of the cloud,
-    Around it for ever deep music is swelling—
-    The voice of the mountain wind, solemn and loud.”
-
-                                                              MRS. HEMANS.
-
-ON the following morning, I found myself unable to walk, from the effect
-produced by a sprained ancle, and I had the delightful prospect of being
-confined to the room of an inn in a country town, without a being to
-converse with, or a book to enliven me; but my kind landlord, a fine
-portly, rosy-cheeked, round-headed, honest-hearted Boniface, as ever drew
-spigot, kindly offered me a pony, to take me to the lake, which, he said,
-contained plenty of perch.  This offer, I thankfully accepted, and, by
-the aid of mine host and his ostler, was soon seated upon the back of a
-quiet not-to-be-put-out-of-his-way animal, as any clerical gentleman
-could desire to ride upon, and
-
-    “With slow and solemn pace,”
-
-proceeded to catch fish, and view the scenery around
-
-
-
-LLYN TEGID, OR BALA LAKE.
-
-
-                           [Picture: Bala Lake]
-
-Seated upon a rock that projects into the lake (under the shadow of which
-is the boat house of Mr. Price, of Rhewlas, of whom, more anon) I
-commenced my solitary pastime; but my eyes continually wandered from the
-float, to the surrounding scenery, which is of a pleasing rather than an
-imposing nature.  The lake was slightly ruffled by a refreshing breeze,
-which fortunately sprang up, and prevented me from dissolving in the heat
-of the sun.  It is about four miles in length, and in some parts it is
-forty yards in depth.  The shores are sloping, the soil gravelly, and
-delightfully variegated with plantations of trees and shrubs.  Towards
-the head of the lake, the mountains are upon a very grand scale, and
-rival Snowdon in their altitude; _Arran Fowddwy_ is the loftiest of
-these, near the summit of which, upon its eastern side, beneath a huge
-crag, is situated a lake, which affords excellent sport to the angler,
-although the fish are not of the finest quality.
-
-_Arrenig Vawr_, (or great), which is nearly as lofty as Arran Fowddwy,
-and rises upon the N.W. side of the Llyn, has also a lake, containing
-trout of a large size, which are noted for rejecting the artificial fly;
-but, about half way up the _Arrenig Vâch_, (or little) is a lake, which
-when a light breeze sweeps along its surface, will amply reward the
-angler for his trouble, in reaching it.  A morning, and an evening, at
-each of these places, enable me to state thus much, for the benefit of
-the disciples of Isaac Walton.
-
-I was suddenly aroused from a dream of pleasure, which I was enjoying,
-with my eyes open, by a tug at my line, reminding me, that a fish had
-swallowed the hook.  After a little coquetting, which lovers usually make
-use of, I brought it to my arms, and then thrust it into my bag; a fine
-perch!  I now resolved, to begin in earnest, and in an hour, by my
-temptation and insinuation, contrived to obtain a very handsome dish,
-with which I returned upon my pony to the inn, resigning them and myself
-to the care of Martha Jones.  This was the only uncomfortable evening I
-passed at the Bull—and with respect be it spoken, all my uneasiness was
-occasioned, by the magistrates of the county, who had met to discuss the
-important business of their various districts, and to join in the
-
-    “Feast of dainties and the flow of port.”
-
-All the while, the honest landlord, who resembled a “turtle on his hind
-fins,” waddled about in high glee.  It was a great day for the Bull’s
-Head! and his joy resembled Dennis Bulgruddery’s, of the Red Cow, when he
-saw a traveller on the heath, walking in the direction of his long
-neglected hostelry.  The confusion of sounds distracted my brain, and I
-was almost tempted to exclaim, in the language of Falstaff,
-
-    “Is hell broke loose?”
-
-However, remembering that it was occasioned, by a meeting of magistrates,
-my reverence for the laws, and the distributors of them, made me place my
-disabled foot upon a chair, “like patience on a monument, smiling at
-grief.”
-
-I was informed that Mr. Price was among the assembly, to whom, through
-the kindness of Mr. W—, I had a letter of introduction.  My accident,
-however, would prevent my dining with the party, and I concluded it would
-be better to wait until the ensuing morning, to pay my respects to him.
-A couple of ducks, with green peas, and a pint of pale sherry, assisted
-to restore my good humour; and, after poring over the pages of an old
-magazine, till the book became a pillow for my head, I had my foot
-dressed and resigned myself to the influence of Morpheus.  My bed room
-window (the blinds of which, I had neglected to pull down, before I
-retired to bed) permitted the full blaze of the morning sun to shine upon
-my slothful pillow, and rouse me from my slumber.  A great fault, in all
-the Welsh inns, is that Morpheus seems to have complete and undisputed
-prevalence over the whole household.  After satisfying myself that I
-could walk across the room, I thought I would endeavour to see something
-more of the town, and stroll about, until such time as breakfast could be
-prepared.  I accordingly dressed, put on the spacious slippers I had been
-provided with on the previous night, took a strong ash stick in my hand,
-by way of crutch, and hobbled into the pure air.
-
-The town of Bala consists of one long street, has about 2500 inhabitants,
-and is celebrated for its manufacture of woollen articles, such as
-stockings, gloves, and, formerly, Welsh wigs.  Upon an eminence at the S.
-E. end of the town, the old women and young girls assemble in
-considerable numbers during the summer months, to pursue their
-industrious avocations in the open air.  The mound is called, _Tommen y
-Bala_; it is said to be of Roman construction; and, from the summit, a
-very fine view may be obtained of Llyn Tegid and the mountains.  There is
-a town hall, and a chapel of ease to the parish church at Llanycil, about
-a mile distant, where the morning service is read in English only upon
-the first Sunday in each month.  Finding my exertion too great for my
-ease, I was glad to hobble into the shop of the village apothecary and
-surgeon.  It was half past eight o’clock, and the drowsy shop boy, who
-appeared but recently to have left his bed, informed me, that perhaps his
-master would be down in a short time.  This indefinite period did not
-suit my patience, and I requested him to give his master a call.  Still
-he came not.  I became fidgetty, and began to be indignant, half
-resolving to leave the shop, when a little, stiff, consequential looking
-personage made his appearance, gazing upon me with a look in which much
-dissatisfaction was manifest.  My travelling garb (for I had not
-discarded my shooting jacket, at this early hour, in favour of a more
-appropriate morning costume) did not inspire him with much suavity; but,
-after a minute survey, he, with all the dignity of five feet, pointed to
-a chair, which I a short time before had quitted to look at some maps
-that adorned the walls of the room, I bared my ancle for his inspection,
-and he informed me truly, that rest alone could be of service to me.
-With this comfortable advice, which I had previously determined not to
-follow, I returned to the inn, breakfasted, ordered out the pony, and set
-off to visit Mr. Price, of Rhewlas.
-
-A handsome gateway opens into the grounds of Rhewlas; a neat lodge is
-situated upon the right of the avenue, and upon the left, a fine mountain
-stream dashes over its black, rocky bed.  Half way up the avenue, upon
-the right, is a beautiful dingle, over which a bridge is thrown for the
-accommodation of passengers, and under it a murmuring rill, glides on its
-course to the principal stream.  A profusion of rhododandrums, of a kind,
-are interspersed amongst the trees, and shrubs, forming a delightful
-contrast.  Here the noble oak, the beech, and birch, flourish luxuriously
-in common with the other numerous leafy tenants of the forest, whose ever
-varying hues delight the eye.
-
-The house is situated on a rising ground, backed by the mountain and
-extensive woods, and commands a noble prospect.
-
-After dinner, I accompanied Mr. Price in his phaeton, to take a survey of
-the estate, and was much delighted with the evident pleasure he took, in
-improving the roads in the neighbourhood.  Under his auspices, a new line
-of road is joined to Corwen, which, although deficient in picturesque
-beauty, is shorter by one mile than that by Llandrillo, and affords far
-better travelling.
-
-Mr. Price has planted, during his residence at this lovely spot, no less
-than 650 acres, and the domain altogether presents a picture of beauty
-and happiness, seldom to be met with.  He is much respected; is a
-magistrate, and a resident; and, in consequence, knows the value of his
-land.  He considers, and administers to the wants of his tenants, and,
-instead of extorting from them a rent they would be compelled to starve
-themselves to pay, he limits it to a sum which will enable them to live
-in comfort.
-
-It was twilight when I left Rhewlas, and by the side of the dingle I have
-before mentioned, I paused to gaze once more upon the beauty of the
-scene, and traced a few lines, expressive of my feelings, upon quitting
-so delightful a solitude.
-
-    Farewell to fair Rhewlas! and farewell to thee,
-    Thou pride of the vallies, thou fast flowing Dee!
-    Whose stream glides in brightness from Bala’s fair breast,
-    And wanders in beauty through regions of rest.
-    Farewell to thee, Rhewlas! how blest were my lot,
-    With friends round and near me, the gay world forgot,
-    Here, here, in the soft lap of quiet to dwell,
-    Farewell to thee Rhewlas! sweet Rhewlas, farewell!
-
-    The bright golden summer hath fill’d thee with glee—
-    The song of the thrush, and the boom of the bee,
-    The wild flowers’ fragrance, the breath of the rose,
-    And green woods that kiss the dark stream as it flows:
-    To scenes grand and gloomy my footsteps may stray,
-    Where terror frowns dreadful along the wild way,
-    But beauty for aye in this region shall dwell,
-    Farewell to thee, Rhewlas! sweet Rhewlas, farewell!
-
-I returned to the inn, much pleased with my day’s entertainment, happy to
-find that my ancle was comparatively easy, and ordered a car to be ready
-on the following morning to convey me ten miles on the road to Dolgelly.
-
-Rising early, I found no inconvenience from my ancle; and, after a good
-breakfast, took leave of my host, and his wife, of Martha Jones, and the
-Bull’s Head, all of whom appeared anxious to see me comfortably seated in
-the vehicle, and with kindest farewells, expressed a desire of speedily
-seeing me again—all excepting the Bull’s Head, poor thing, which being a
-dummy only looked a good bye; and taking every thing into consideration,
-he looked it very well.
-
-The car in which I was bumped along the road, in every respect resembled
-those delightful conveyances that rattle the astonished traveller from
-Cork to Blarney.  It is a sort of oval box, placed upon two wheels, with
-a door behind, and with good wedging will contain four persons; but being
-springless and cushionless, the passenger is jolted to his heart’s
-content, that is, if his heart has been set on jolting; and, without
-doubt, it is fine exercise for persons of sedentary habits, if by any
-chance, their bones happen to escape dislocation.  My knapsack (my
-opposite, and only fellow passenger) and I, looked very black at each
-other, as we bobbed up and down, like a cockney grocer’s apprentice upon
-a high trotting horse; but I soon became resigned, and my knapsack having
-shifted its berth for the bottom of the vehicle, seemed to rest more
-comfortably than on the seat.  Notwithstanding the inconvenience I
-suffered from this carriage, I could not help admiring the extreme beauty
-of the lake, as we pursued our course along its borders; sometimes, only
-catching a glimpse of it, through the trees that shaded its delightful
-margin.  Its waters were smooth and motionless; not a ripple was visible
-upon its surface; the lofty mountains reflected in its breast gave a
-sombre tinge to the otherwise golden scene, and, as I looked into the
-clear depths of the shadows, I thought, how peacefully one shattered by
-the storms of life might sink beneath, and be at rest!
-
-After passing Llanthyn, (an estate belonging to Sir W. W. Wynn, who
-claims the whole fishing of this beautiful piece of water, and has, by
-putting a quantity of pike therein, destroyed all the trout and gwynniad
-with which it once abounded), the scenery became wild, and cheerless,
-until we reached
-
-
-
-THE VALE OF DRWSTYNRNT,
-
-
-where, to my great satisfaction, the car stopped at the sign of the Welsh
-Prince, a distance of ten miles from Bala, and eight from Dolgelly.
-Being thoroughly tired with my ride, I thought I would endeavour to
-obtain the proper use of my limbs, and rest myself by walking the
-remainder of the journey.  Dismissing the car, therefore, and strapping
-my knapsack to my shoulders, I once more took the road.
-
-About a mile beyond the Welsh Prince, the valley becomes truly beautiful.
-Waving woods adorn the mountains upon either side.  The Wnion here begins
-to be an important stream; and, though in its course towards Dolgelly it
-is swelled by numerous mountain tributaries into a broad river, the trees
-upon its banks form an impenetrable screen, which conceal it from the
-traveller, and its hoarse murmur, as it dashes over the rocks that vainly
-endeavour to intercept its way, alone remind him of its vicinity.  At
-length, I arrived at a spot, where a road leads over a bridge to the
-opposite side of the river.  Thinking this would be a proper place to see
-the Wnion to advantage, I advanced to the centre of the bridge.  The
-effect is beautiful; hanging woods adorn the banks of the stream, lofty
-ash trees, (around the trunks of which the ivy winds itself in snakelike
-folds, feeding upon the tree that supports it), spread their proud heads
-above, and form a pleasing shade, while below the river roars, as it is
-precipitated beneath the arch in two large falls, that form a deep pool
-on the opposite side.
-
-“It was in that pool,” said a voice at my shoulder, “that Hugh Evans
-first saw the fairy.”  Upon turning round, I saw an old man, much bent
-with age, knitting hose.
-
-“What fairy, my good man?” said I, “and who was Hugh Evans?”
-
-“Ah! you are a stranger here, sir.  Why, it’s a tale my grandfather used
-to tell me, of a lad, who worked with him in the fields yonder.”
-
-
-
-HUGH EVANS, AND THE FAIRY.
-
-
-Hugh was a handsome lad, and all the girls were mad for love of him; but
-he was a prudent youth, and would not notice any of them, for he thought
-as he could hardly earn enough to support himself, he had no chance of
-supporting others.  Well, one day as he was returning from work, he leant
-over the bridge, where you are now standing, sir, and what should he see,
-but a beautiful young creature, bathing in the deep water there.  Well,
-he knew it was a fairy, for he never had seen any thing half so beautiful
-before; and he couldn’t for the life of him take his eyes from her,
-though she was as naked (saving your presence) as when she was born.  She
-had long black hair, streaming down her shoulders, as glossy as a crow’s
-wing, and the smallest feet, and hands, he ever beheld! and the beautiful
-fairy said to him, “Hugh, handsome Hugh, why did you come hither? but,
-since you are here, turn your head aside, till I get out of the stream,
-and then I’ll come and talk to you.”  And Hugh did as he was bid, for he
-was too much in love to deny her any thing; and, before he could recover
-his surprise, there was the fairy, close by his side, in the dress of a
-neat country lass.  And her snowy feet, and her raven locks, red lips,
-and sparkling eyes, made Hugh’s heart knock at his ribs, like a smith’s
-hammer on the anvil.  So what does he do, but drop down upon his knees,
-and swore he was dying for love of the angel.  “I’m no angel at all,”
-says she, “but a foolish body of a fairy, that has fallen in love with
-handsome Hugh, and, if you’ll consent to my wishes in one respect, I’ll
-be a fond wife to you all the days of your life.”  Hugh was delighted to
-hear her talk, and he promised to do every thing she wished.  “All I
-desire,” said she, “is that you will permit me to leave you every night
-at twelve o’clock for one hour, and never attempt to follow me, or ask
-where I have been.  But, if you follow me, you will never see me again,
-and you will only have to thank your own folly and rashness for it.”
-Hugh promised faithfully, and the fairy provided him with money enough to
-buy a neat little cottage on the hill yonder, and to stock it with a cow,
-pigs, and poultry.  He likewise bought ten acres of land, and every body
-wondered how Hugh Evans became so rich on a sudden, but they supposed it
-was his wife’s fortune, though they never could find out who she was.
-For many years they lived together, and she bore him two girls, both
-resembling the mother, and their comeliness was the talk of the country.
-Marriage had no power to destroy the beauty of the fairy’s form or face,
-for eternal youth and loveliness were part of her portion.
-
-But Hugh got jealous of a neighbour, whom he used to invite to his house
-in the winter evenings, and he fancied that his wife paid him more
-attention than was necessary.  Until that time, he never cared about her
-absence at midnight but the “green eyed monster;” whispered to him that
-she had other than honest motives, for absenting herself from home at
-that late hour.  And one night, when his neighbour, Davie Jones, happened
-to be more animated than usual with the good woman his hostess, who was
-always desirous of making Hugh’s friends welcome, he gave her a kiss at
-parting that went to the heart of poor Hugh; and he determined to look
-after her that night when she left his bed, to discover if his suspicions
-were well founded.  Accordingly, pretending to sleep, he watched his wife
-when she rose up.  The first thing she did was to go to her children,
-whom she kissed, and by the light of the moon, which shone brightly
-through the casement, he saw her suddenly (without the aid of toilet
-labour) arrayed in a gossamer robe of rose coloured pink, through which
-her beautiful skin was dimly perceptible, and her exquisite form fully
-displayed to his astonished eyes; the right arm and breast were bare,
-while the drapery was secured upon the left shoulder, and at the waist
-with clasps of costly gems.
-
-“Her black luxuriant ringlets, contrasted with her snowy neck, her dark
-eyes flashing with delight, and her red pouting lips,” said poor Hugh,
-“made me motionless with admiration, which was increased by seeing her
-leap, through the open casement!  Terrified lest she should be dashed to
-pieces by the fall—filled with fury at her being thus decked out to meet
-her paramour, with desperate eagerness I darted out of the window in
-pursuit.  The height was considerable.  I caught a glimpse in my descent,
-of her fairy form as she reached the summit of the hill, and then all
-sense forsook me.  When restored to consciousness, I found myself
-stretched upon my bed; both my legs broken by the fall, and my head
-sorely bruised.  Upon asking for Lleucu, my wife, I was told she had
-never been seen since I beheld her.  My friend Davie was attending me
-affectionately, bathing my temples with cold lotions; and my heart smote
-me for my suspicions.  Night came, and, as the hour approached when
-Lleucu departed, I became restless and feverish, when a voice, which I
-knew to be Lleucu’s, entered my chamber; it sang as follows:
-
-    “Farewell Hugh, handsome Hugh,
-    Don’t forget thy poor Lleucu!
-    O’er thy limbs I spread a charm,
-    And to-morrow, free from harm,
-    To thine honest labour hie,
-    To support our progeny.
-    Oh, protect their tender years,
-    Bless my hopes and soothe my fears!
-    Farewell, Hugh, handsome Hugh,
-    Don’t forget thy poor Lleucu!”
-
-“I would have given my life to have seen her again,” continued Hugh; “but
-I lost her for ever.  The next morning, faithful to her promise, I was
-indeed perfectly free from pain; my limbs were as strong as at the moment
-when I sprang from the window; but my heart was broken.”
-
-“May be, sir, you’d like to buy a pair of stockings or mittens,” said the
-old man, without pausing to notice the effect his tale had upon me, and
-pulling the articles out of his coat pocket as he spoke.  I could not
-resist the appeal, and, giving him the price he demanded, I pursued my
-journey towards Dolgelly.  Nearly the whole of this lovely valley is the
-property of Sir Robert Vaughan.
-
-I was meditating upon the romantic tale of the old man, when suddenly a
-turn in the road and an opening in the dell revealed to my delighted eyes
-the celebrated mountain called Cader Idris.
-
-                [Picture: Cader Idris, from the Bala Road]
-
-
-
-CADER IDRIS,
-
-
-the loftiest mountain in Merionethshire, and the second in North Wales,
-is said to be 950 yards in perpendicular height from Dolgelly Green.
-Cader Idris literally means “Idris’s chair,” where he is supposed to have
-studied astrology; and Idris is a name attributed to Enoch, the founder
-of astronomy.  Mr. Edward Jones, to whom the public are indebted for his
-learned and ingenious work, entitled “The Bardic Museum,” observes that
-“Cær Idris implies the city of the learned:” and Mr. Rowland, in his
-“Mona Antiqua,” mentions a place in Anglesea called Cær Idris, also Bôd
-Idris, or “Idris’s abode or mansion,” in Yale, Denbighshire, which still
-retains the name, as well as that of Llêch Idris, or “the shelter of
-Idris,” a farm so called, at Trawsoynydd in Merionethshire, which also
-may imply the grave of Idris.  Idris is supposed to have flourished in
-the third or fourth century, and his genealogy from an old manuscript,
-runs thus:—“Idris Gawr ab Gwyddno, ab Tibion, ab Cunedda Wledig.”
-
-Snowdon and Cader Idris were formerly supposed to be the Parnassian hills
-of Wales, and none but good bards could claim so elevated a seat.
-
-Idris, the champion or bard, invented the harp; or, if the Gomerian
-Britons brought that instrument into the country when they first
-inhabited the island, it seems to have been lost and forgotten; for Idris
-is said to have invented something similar; but it is probable he only
-made some improvement on the ancient harp, or perhaps his superior skill
-in performing on it might have gained him that reputation.  From all that
-can be gathered from tradition, he was a learned man, an astrologer, and
-a bard; and it is likely that the summit of this mountain was chosen by
-him, to examine from thence the movements of the heavenly bodies, to
-write his inspired verses, or to frame laws for the government and
-benefit of his country.
-
-The walk from this spot to Dolgelly is exceedingly beautiful; and as the
-tourist approaches the town before crossing the bridge which is flung
-over the river Mawddach, a sign of some importance attracts his attention
-upon the right: it runs thus:
-
-                                   R. PUGH,
-                                Guide General
-                       To the Waterfalls, Cader Idris,
-                        And all the curious scenery in
-                          The vicinity of Dolgelly.
-
-                    N.B.  Licenced to let saddled horses.
-
-
-
-DOLGELLY,
-
-
-or Dolgellen, the Dale of the Hazel, is the principal market town in
-Merionethshire, and the assizes are held here, alternately with Bala.
-The town hall, the most important building, is a neat stone edifice,
-erected in the year 1825, and cost £3000.  It is built near the banks of
-the river Wnion, (pronounced Oonion) and the court room is fitted up with
-every necessary accommodation for the officers of justice.  In the hall
-is a very fine portrait of Sir R. W. Vaughan, Bart., painted by Sir M. A.
-Shee, F.R.A.
-
-               [Picture: Parliament House of Owen Glyndwr]
-
-Part of an old building, called “Cwrt Plâs yn-y Drêv,” or the Town-hall
-Court is still remaining, amongst a range of wretched hovels, at the back
-of the post office, in which a parliament was held by Owen Glyndwr.  The
-county jail at the outskirts of the town is of a semicircular form, built
-of stone, and was erected in 1811, at an expense of £5000.
-
-St. Mary’s Church is a neat limestone edifice, of Grecian architecture,
-with a handsome tower, and an expansive nave.  In it is an ancient
-monument of an armed knight, who is represented in a suit of mail,
-helmet, a neck guard, a sword in his hand, and a dog at his feet; a lion
-passant gardant is on his shield, upon which is inscribed: “Hic jacet
-Mauric Filius Ynyr Vychan.”  There is a modern one lately erected to the
-memory of Baron Richards.
-
-The town is celebrated for a manufacture of coarse woollen cloths and
-flannels, called webs.  The old town hall is used for various purposes;
-English church service is performed there every other Sunday; it is also
-used as a national school, and children are there taught to sing the
-church psalms.  It is likewise known as the theatre, and a Mr. Glover
-(son of Mrs. Glover, of the London theatres) is the manager.  It is kept
-open sometimes for two months successively; admittance to boxes 2_s_, pit
-1_s_.
-
-Those fond of fine scenery should ascend the mountain from the north side
-of the vale, to obtain the best view of the town, as it lies sheltered at
-the foot of the majestic Cader Idris, which rears its lofty shoulders in
-the clouds.
-
-Clustering woods adorn the opposite range of mountains, as they slope in
-irregular masses westward to the ocean; and in the midst may be
-distinguished the residences of Mr. Reveley and Captain Anwyl.
-
-The river beautifully meandering through the green meadows, the solemn
-quietude that prevails around, disturbed only by the sound of the church
-clock, marking the progress of the fleeting hours with lengthened tone,
-which, like the music of another world, sweeps through the enchanting
-vale, combine to render this a place where those not wedded to routs,
-masquerades, gambling and licentiousness, might wish to live and die.
-
-Dolgelly contains several good inns, of which the most frequented are the
-Golden lion, the Angel and the Ship.  Comfortable lodgings may likewise
-be obtained, at a cheap rate, by those who desire to remain in the
-neighbourhood for the purpose of making excursions to the falls, Kymmer
-Abbey, and Nannau Park, the fishing stations, Dol y Gamedd on the Avon,
-Llyn Cregenan, Llyn Gador, Llyn Geirw, Tal y llyn, &c. {176}
-
-
-
-DOLUWCHEOGRYD,
-
-
-the residence of Mr. Roland Williams, is delightfully situated on the
-side of a mountain rising from this vale.  I have read of a man who made
-search through the world for true hospitality, and returned to his cell
-without finding it.  It is certain that he never entered the abode of Mr.
-R. Williams, which is the habitation of unaffected kindness, unpresuming
-intelligence, and unostentatious hospitality—the retreat of peace, love
-and friendship, where the stranger is received with warmth and
-cordiality, his wants anxiously anticipated and administered to, where
-the cheerful glass is rendered doubly valuable by the accompaniment of a
-hearty welcome, and where the administering hands of the fair inmates
-render every species of generosity doubly dear to the favoured individual
-who is admitted into that happy sanctuary.  The only feeling of regret I
-experienced while at Doluwcheogryd was occasioned by the necessity of
-leaving it so soon.
-
-The tourist should not quit Dolgelly without visiting the waterfalls,
-which, after heavy rains, are very magnificent.  As I was still suffering
-from the severe sprain, I was accommodated by Mr. Williams, who also
-obliged me with his company, with a very fine horse to carry me to the
-falls; and bold and sure-footed, he performed his duty nobly, in spite of
-crags, cliffs, hills and hollows.
-
-Passing the house of Miss Madock, daughter of the late William Alexander
-Madock, Esq., we came to the cataract.
-
-
-
-THE RHAIADR DU
-
-
-is situated in the grounds belonging to this lady, called Dôl melynllyn.
-Here the torrent leaps from a height of sixty feet over precipitous
-rocks, and plunges with a violence that seems to shake the crags and
-trees around, into a deep pool, from which it proceeds adown the dingle,
-over black and broken fragments, to the river Mawddach.  A footpath
-conducts the tourist to the bottom of the falls, from which, stepping
-upon some loose stones in the middle of the stream, he will obtain the
-best view of the cataract.  A walk of about three miles brings him to the
-falls of the Mawddach and Pistyll y Cain, returning from which, he may
-visit Y Vanner, or Kymmer Abbey, founded in 1198, by Meredith and
-Griffith, lords of Merioneth, dedicated to St. Mary, and inhabited by
-monks of the Cistertian order.  It is not now, however, worthy of the
-tourist’s attention.  But Nannau Park, the seat of Sir Robert William
-Vaughan, will afford much pleasure to those who visit it.  The grounds
-are thickly wooded, and the mansion is supposed to occupy the highest
-ground of any residence in Britain.  The approach to it is five miles in
-length; it stands 702 feet above the level of the sea; and the park is
-celebrated for its venison.  Previously to the year 1814, there stood an
-oak in this park which bore a name terrible to the ears of the peasantry:
-it was called
-
-
-
-DERWEN CEUBREN YR ELLYLL,
-
-
-which translated, means, “the hollow oak, the haunt of demons.”  In this
-oak, it is said Owen Glyndwr immured the body of Howell Sele, the
-proprietor of this estate, who, while they were walking together,
-treacherously shot an arrow at the breast of Glyndwr, who, however,
-having armour beneath his doublet, fortunately received no hurt.  The
-cause of this treachery is said to have been the indignation expressed by
-Owen at his kinsman’s refusal to join his cause to redress his country’s
-wrongs.  Glyndwr forced his body into the hollow of this oak, most likely
-after having slain him, where, forty years after this event, a skeleton
-was discovered.  The chieftain, after laying waste the mansion and domain
-of Sele, hastened to join his friends.  Sir W. Scott has written a very
-beautiful poem upon this legend, which will be found in the fifth note to
-his sixth canto of Marmion, and is called the “spirit’s blasted tree.”
-In 1813, this monarch of the wood fell to the ground.
-
-The country from Dolgelly to the mouth of the river is well worth a
-journey of three hundred miles to visit, even though there were no other
-objects worthy of notice in North Wales, and will amply compensate the
-most eager researcher after the sublime and beautiful.
-
-At a turn of the coach road from a place called Te-gwyn, a splendid view
-of Cader Idris is obtained, particularly in the evening, when the mists
-arise from the numerous lakes in the vicinity, like volumes of smoke from
-a domain of fire, curling in fantastic forms around the mountain’s waist,
-leaving its summit stern and clear in an unclouded sky—like a proud giant
-surveying with disdain the dwarfish host of which he is the leader.
-
-    Thou mighty Cader, whose commanding head
-    Is alway canopied with winter’s snow,
-    Whose form is rent in many a chasm dread,
-    Adown whose sides the dashing torrents flow,
-    And in primeval majesty still throw
-    Their flakes of foam into the gulph below!
-    Mine eyes dwell on thy terrors, and my heart
-    Expands and trembles with a nameless glow!
-    Wildest of all the mountain kind thou art,
-    The rampart that protects old Cambria’s heart.
-
-    Land of the free! amid thy giant hills,
-    Whose regal heads appear to prop the skies,
-    Oh what a thrilling awe my bosom fills
-    While gazing on thy dark sublimities!
-    Mountains on mountains, peaks on peaks arise,
-    Like tents belonging to some Titan race,
-    Who choosing highest ground, nighest the God,
-    Again defy the thunderer, face to face,
-    From heights more vast than Alpine foot e’er trod,
-    And undismayed await his dreadful nod.
-
-Another noble view attracts attention, at a place called Glan
-Mawddach—the broad arm of the sea, stretching for miles between the
-rugged mountains, which, shrouded in veils of silvery mist, fling their
-dark shadows into the depths of the water.  Proceeding onwards, the seat
-of the late A. Wynne, Esq., called Athog, now the residence of Mr.
-Fowden, becomes conspicuous upon the south side of the mouth of the
-Mawddach, and beyond the extremity of the Bay Celylin point, and the
-church of which the Rev. J. Parry is rector.  The bishop has the power of
-appointing a curate; but Mr. Parry retains the tithes to himself.
-Arriving at
-
-
-
-BARMOUTH,
-
-
-the coach stopped at the Cors-y-gedol arms; but I proceeded to the
-Commercial inn, where there is very good accommodation, and a good
-look-out seaward.  A warm bath of sea water refreshed me; and by the star
-light I strolled upon the sands, which are very hard and pleasant to walk
-upon, while my repast was preparing at the inn.  The night was calm and
-serene, and my mind naturally adapted itself to the surrounding scene.
-“The brave o’erhanging firmament—the majestical roof fretted with golden
-fire,” appeared to me far from being “a foul and pestilent congregation
-of vapours.”  My soul took wing, and bounded from star to star, leaping
-the realms of space, and plunging into infinity, till wearied with its
-immeasurable flight, it resought its earthly tenement, and my body, which
-it left immoveable, as if transformed to marble, resumed its functions.
-The low moan of the ocean swam on my ear, like heavenly music.  A light
-breeze brought with it delicious freshness; and, as I looked towards the
-land, all seemed as quiet as the abode of peace.  The lights from the
-houses had a pleasing effect, as they streamed through the windows, row
-above row, under and upon the side of the overhanging cliffs.
-
-I returned to “mine inn,” and my meal being despatched, retired to bed.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VII.
-
-
-Description of Barmouth—Sketch of the Town—The Estuary—Friar’s
-Island—Dinas Gortin—Earl of Richmond—Anecdote of the men of Ardudwy, and
-the men of Denbighshire—Mostyn Hall—A pic-nic party—Llyn Cwm
-Bychan—Carreg y Saeth—The Witch of Cwm Bychan—Legendary Tale—Bwlch
-Tyddiad—A mountain ride and a regretful farewell.
-
-    “The mountayne men live longer many a yeare
-    Then those in vale, in plaine, or marrish soyle;
-    A lustie hart, a cleene complexion cleere,
-    They have on hill that for hard living toyle;
-    With ewe and lambe, with goats and kinds they play,
-    In greatest toyles to rub out wearie day;
-    And when to house and home good fellowes draw
-    The lads can laugh at turning of a strawe.”
-
-                                                               CHURCHYARD.
-
-BARMOUTH, or Aber-Maw, derives its name from being situated at the
-embouchure of the river Maw or Mawddach, which at the entrance is
-obstructed by a bar.  The old town, viewed from the sea, resembles a
-fortress of some strength, hanging immediately over the sands.  In most
-cases a lofty situation is an advantage, but here it is the reverse; for
-so steep is the side of the cliff on which it stands, that the
-inhabitants of the upper regions are completely smoke-dried from the
-chimneys of all the dwellings beneath.
-
-The new town stands at the base of the rock, and but for some mounds of
-sand, that appear likely to grow into mountains by the influence of the
-winds and waves, would inevitably be washed away by the spring tides.
-Some of the fishermen’s habitations on the beach are at times buried in
-the drifting sands; and, after a strong wind from the seaward, the
-inhabitants generally labour hard to clear the obstruction from their
-doors.
-
-Barmouth had few visitors during my stay, and from the report of those I
-met with, is greatly decreasing in popularity, which says but little in
-favour of the lovers of fine scenery.  When the tide is at full, the
-panorama around the estuary cannot be surpassed in beauty.  The majestic
-river winds amongst rocks, clad with purple heather, or projecting in
-barren grandeur, that lift their jagged summits tier over tier, and peak
-overtopping peak, while still tremendous, towering over all, the lofty
-Idris looms in the back ground.  Green hills and woody promontories,
-forests that stretch into the dark recesses of the mountains, villas and
-copsewood glens, give an endless variety to the romantic scene.
-
-The town contains about 2,000 inhabitants, and there is a manufactory of
-flannels and woollen stockings.
-
-At noon, as I was basking upon the sands, or Friar’s island, which is
-situated at the mouth of the river, I had the pleasure to see my new
-acquaintance and friend gallop into the town, and old Charon having
-ferried me from the island to the main land once more, I hastened to
-welcome him, as fast as my damaged limb would suffer me.  He proposed
-driving me to Mostyn Hall, the seat of the Hon. E. M. L. Mostyn; which
-being agreed to, I ordered dinner to be ready at our return, and we
-started.  The drive upon the Harlech road is bleak; upon the right, the
-hills are barren; and seaward, beneath the road, is an extensive flat,
-consisting chiefly of bog land and far from interesting.  About a mile
-and a half from the town, stands the church of Llan Aber, upon the
-extreme verge of a cliff which overlooks the ocean.  The Carnaervonshire
-mountains have a fine effect stretching into the sea; of which the
-Rivals, with their lofty peaks, are noble objects in the distance.
-Following the chain, the eye rests for a moment upon Garn Bodean, and in
-the flat between it and Garn Madryn is the town of Pwllhely.  The chain
-is resumed at Rhew mountain, and terminates at Aberdarron point, three
-leagues from which is Bardsey Island, a conspicuous and interesting
-object; for there dwelt the bards of old, amongst whom were numbered the
-fathers of science, the national interpreters, musicians, and
-legislators, priests, and princes of Cambria.  With their oratory they
-soothed the savage ignorance of mankind into civilization and knowledge,
-and polished their minds with the powerful aid of music and poetry.
-After the dreadful slaughter of the monks of Bangor, those who survived
-took shelter upon this island.  A few ruined walls alone remain of the
-ancient abbey; and the inhabitants, who do not exceed one hundred
-persons, support themselves chiefly by fishing.
-
-About three miles from Barmouth, upon the summit of the mountain called
-Dinas Gortin, are the remains of a military encampment, and near to the
-town there stood a tower, where it is said the Earl of Richmond used to
-conceal himself, when he visited his secret allies in this part of the
-country.
-
-Near the military station, are the tombs of the celebrated men of
-Ardudwy; who, in imitation of the Roman robbers, made an excursion into
-Denbighshire, and overcoming the men, forcibly tore the women from their
-families, and returned in triumph with them to their own country.
-
-But the men of Denbighshire, rallying, pursued the spoilers, and
-overtaking them in the pass of Drws ardydwy, routed them with great
-slaughter.  But the infatuated women had by this time conceived so
-extraordinary a passion for their violators, that rather than survive
-their loss, or perhaps more probably, to escape the fury of their former
-husbands, they drowned themselves in a lake, which is called the pool of
-Morwynion.
-
-About two miles further, a road up a steep ascent, conducted us to a fine
-avenue of trees, through which we passed, and at the termination of it
-came to a handsome gateway, called Pat Mawr, which admitted us into the
-mansion of Cors y gedol, which has nothing in it to interest the tourist.
-The interior of the building is incommodious and inelegant.  The
-drawing-room contains a few wretched portraits and high-backed chairs;
-and the rest of the apartments are meanly furnished.  The only object of
-interest is a window, out of which the Earl of Richmond, afterwards Henry
-VII, is said to have leaped, when a party of Richard III’s soldiers
-attempted to apprehend him; it is called the king’s window.
-
-We returned to Barmouth by the sea shore, and, after a most delightful
-drive upon Neptune’s boundaries, arrived at the inn, where the evening
-was passed in conviviality, tempered with prudence, and sweetened by
-social and interesting conversation.  As I had determined upon proceeding
-to Harlech the following day, my companion was resolved to make the
-journey as agreeable as possible, and requesting me to forward my
-knap-sack &c., by the coach, informed me that he would be ready to
-accompany me in the morning.  Requesting him, therefore, to be early at
-breakfast, we parted for the night.
-
-After despatching a hasty meal next morning, the word was given “to horse
-and away.”  My old favourite who bore me so gallantly to the black
-cataract, was again resigned to my care, and I to his, gentle as a lamb,
-proud as a war horse and agile as an antelope.  I felt like an Arab, on
-his steed, and I thought I could defy the winds to overtake me.  We
-proceeded once more to Mostyn Hall, which was the appointed spot of
-rendezvous for a pic-nic party.  Here I had the happiness of meeting some
-of the choicest flowers of the Welsh Highlands.  Youth, beauty, freedom,
-and innocence, beamed from the laughing eyes and unsullied cheeks of our
-fair companions.  The “how d’ye do’s?” “glad to see you,” “fine morning,”
-&c. &c., being ended, we moved forward in a formidable cavalcade.  Mirth,
-wit and pleasure played on the lips and sparkled in the eyes of the whole
-party; and the animals that bore us seemed to partake of the general
-feeling, by pricking up their glossy ears, and bounding over the rugged
-road with more spirit than prudence.  Much mirth was occasioned by the
-opening of gates, and crossing of brooks.  At length, the party plunged
-into a beautiful wood.  I paused upon an eminence, to mark the effect as
-they descended; it was picturesque in the extreme, as at intervals,
-through the openings, I caught a partial glimpse of the troop, pursuing
-their cheerful way down the steep path.  Pleased with the sight, I passed
-the party at a gallop, and arriving at the foot of the hill, remained
-upon a bridge, close by the woodman’s cottage, which crosses a mountain
-stream, watching their approach.
-
-It was delightful to see them advancing one by one through the thick
-foliage which hung on either side of the path, and arching over their
-heads.  On arriving at the foot of the descent, the party drew up, and,
-had an artist been among us, I am confident he would have produced a
-picture, which, even on the lifeless canvass, would have delighted the
-connoisseurs of Somerset House.
-
-The variety of costume, the colour of the horses, the general sensation
-of delight which lighted up the features of the gay group; the
-picturesque cottage and bridge, the broad rushing stream, the waving
-woods, with now and then a glimpse of the sterile mountains, peeping
-above the beautiful fertility, formed a landscape which Salvator Rosa
-himself would have been delighted to delineate.
-
-Penetrating through a woody maze, a glen upon our right, and huge wild
-masses of rock towering above our heads, we passed Crafnant; a house
-situated in the deep shade of the lonely wood, the residence of Mr. Owen,
-a surgeon; who, from our not having for a long range of country
-encountered a civilized residence, barring the woodman’s cottage, I felt
-half inclined to think was only attendant on the quadrupeds of the
-mountain.  The rocks now assumed a wild and threatening aspect upon our
-left, as we emerged into a more open track, and entered upon the domain
-of Dolwreiddiog, where Mr. Mawhans has a snug shooting box, a little
-beyond which, commences perhaps the wildest scenery in North Wales.
-Descending by a rocky path, we came to
-
-
-
-LLYN Y CWM BYCHAM,
-
-
-or, the lake of the little hollow, on the opposite margin of which, the
-wild and dismal Carrey-y-Saeth, the rock of the arrow, rears its black
-head in fearful grandeur.  Cwm Bychan, is a grassy dell, surrounded on
-all sides by the most frightful sterility; which while we gazed with
-wonder on the sublimity of the scene, made us shudder at the utter
-desolation it presented.  A poor cottage stands on the farther end of the
-valley, from which, having obtained a plentiful supply of milk, we
-dismounted, and, fastening our steeds to the gates, we seated ourselves
-under the shade of two trees, upon the inviting grass, which, like the
-smiles of the world, proved but too treacherous; many a scream and laugh
-announcing that the boggy soil had paid no respect to the garments of
-either sex.  Stones were therefore procured, and, having ranged them in a
-magic circle, the whole party seated themselves to partake of the good
-cheer, which a sturdy Welshman had borne upon his shoulders, and who now
-advanced into the middle of the ring.  Knives and forks began to play
-with astonishing celerity.  Fowls, ham, tongue, &c. &c., vanished as if
-by enchantment; and mirth and good humour added zest to the repast.
-
-In this hollow there dwelt a witch called Janet, and a story is told,
-which, as its wildness is well adapted to the scenery, I will endeavour
-to relate.  The circumstances are said to have been confessed by old
-Janet, when under the last torture.
-
-
-
-THE WITCH OF CWM BYCHAN.
-
-
-In the year 1647, when the Parliamentary forces were besieging the castle
-of Harlech, there happened to be a sturdy trooper, named Jacob
-Strong-ith-arm, amongst them, a raw-boned man, of about forty years of
-age, who had a most sanctimonious visage, and a strong nasal twang, which
-the hypocrites he commanded generally affected as the acceptable tone in
-which the Lord delighted.  He had in his youth been a butcher’s boy; but
-sanctity and the cutting the throats of the royalists had elevated him to
-the rank of captain in Oliver’s army.  This man being stationed under
-General Mytton, during the siege of Harlech Castle, fancied himself in
-love with Mary Carrol, the daughter of a farmer in the neighbourhood, who
-was shrewdly suspected of being a favourer of the besieged party.  This,
-however, Jacob did not choose to notice; and, whenever an assault upon
-the castle was repulsed by the royalists, he returned to lay siege to the
-heart of Mary Carrol, who had an utter abhorrence to all fanatics and
-sanctified faces.
-
-“Verily, Mrs. Mary Carrol,” he would say, “I love thee!”
-
-“And by the honour of a cavalier,” replied the maiden, “I love thee not,
-Jacob;” for she concealed not her attachment to the royal party, although
-her father constantly cautioned her to do so.
-
-Long and vainly did Jacob endeavour to obtain the young girl’s
-affections.  At length, he bethought himself of Janet, the witch of Cwm
-Bychan, whose fame was spread for many a mile the country round; and one
-evening in March a man muffled in a horseman’s cloak was seen stumbling
-over the broken rocks and patches of broom and furze that impeded his way
-to the cottage where she lived.  The moon was obscured by the density of
-the atmosphere, and small dark remnants of clouds swept midway through
-the valley, portending heavy rain and tempest.  Often did he kneel and
-lift his trembling hands, as if in prayer, as he approached the cottage,
-and many times did he turn round affrighted, believing he heard a brownie
-brush behind him.  At length, he saw a small white dog running towards
-him, wagging its tail, and looking very glad to see him.  Notwithstanding
-all these tokens of welcome, the teeth of Jacob chattered in his head, as
-he followed his canine conductor, and his heart sank within him.
-
-When he came to the door, it seemed to fly open without the aid of hands,
-and, in the middle of the hut, over a turf fire, sat Janet the witch.
-“Come in!” said she, and repeated these doggerel lines:
-
-    “Thou lovest a young and a pretty bird,
-    And little she cares for thee;
-    But Mary shall carol, and love thee well,
-    If thou’lt give gold to me.”
-
-“By the devil and all his imps, Janet,” said Jacob, mustering up all the
-courage he could to support his profanity, “I’ll give thee a hundred good
-pounds if thou wilt make her love me.”
-
-“It’s a bargain!” quoth Janet, and she griped his hand till he thought he
-felt all the blood in his body running out at his fingers ends, and then
-she gave him this warning:
-
-    “When the change is wrought, shouldst thou in aught
-    ’Gainst thy free oath rebel,
-    Soon shall, in dole, Harlech’s bell toll
-    A sinner’s parting knell!”
-
-“Go thou to Mary’s cottage to-morrow morning by the ninth hour; thou
-shalt find her mind altered, and on the third morning will I call on thee
-for the fulfilment of thy promise.  Away!”
-
-As she spoke, he found himself suddenly whisked away into the centre of a
-furze bush, where, stuck fast, he stood gaping at the door of the
-cottage, which closed against him, as if by enchantment, and all was as
-quiet as before he had entered it, save the whistling wind and the
-driving rain, which the clouds now discharged in torrents.
-
-A festival was to be held that night on the side of Mount Atlas, and all
-witches were desired to attend and join in the revelry, at the command of
-his imperious majesty, Satan himself; and, no sooner had Jacob departed,
-than old Janet began to anoint herself, singing her incantations all the
-while.
-
-    “To thee, to thee, thou mighty one!
-    Whose name is big with fear,
-    I pay my adoration deep,
-    While I anoint me here;
-
-    And in this ointment I have put
-    Mixtures of mighty power,
-    To aid my flight, through the night,
-    To thee, at trysting hour.
-
-    The Lady Gordon’s fav’rite child
-    I’ve roasted for this night,
-    And thus its fat upon my lids
-    I drop to aid my sight.
-
-    Come dance around, my fav’rite imps,
-    Robin and Prick-ear come!
-    Twice must the ocean wide be crossed
-    Ere we again come home.
-
-    With serpents’ oil I smear my cheeks,
-    To smooth my wrinkled skin,
-    And outward wear the show of youth,
-    Though all is old within.
-
-    With blood of matricide I dye
-    My lips to ruby red,
-    And with the deep black soot of hell
-    The white locks of my head;
-
-    With tints from murdered virgin’s face
-    I gaily deck my own,
-    Till either cheek appears to wear
-    A rose flower newly blown;
-
-    Come dance around, my favourite imps,
-    Robin and Prick-ear come,
-    Twice must the ocean wide be crossed,
-    Ere we again come home.”
-
-Her preparations being completed, she mounted upon the back of Robin, and
-attended by Prick-ear, flew through the air to the witches’ festival.
-
-The inhabitants of Mauritania, who resided in the vicinity of Mount
-Atlas, were struck with fear and wonder at the flickering lights and
-fitful sounds of numerous instruments that were seen and heard upon the
-mountain’s sides.  Loud peals of laughter and shouts of merriment
-astonished the peasantry, for many miles around!  Glad enough was the
-arch-fiend to see old Janet, who was a favourite, and he knew she had
-done his service ably.  She knelt down, and did him homage, repeated the
-accursed prayer, and recounted to him the deeds she had performed since
-the last merry meeting,—at which he smiled, and gave her a smack that
-sounded like the report of a piece of ordnance; and back to back, with
-arms locked together, did they whisk it about, to the great delight of
-the assembly; after which, Prick-ear, who had assumed his human shape,
-led her to the feast, and whispered soft words into his mistress’s ear;
-and they kissed and toyed, as did the rest; and in mirth, love, and
-jollity, the night passed rapidly away.  But Janet forgot not in her
-mirth, to beg a boon of Satan, which was, that he would turn the
-inclinations of Mary Carrol upon the trooper, Jacob Strong-ith-arm, which
-being granted, the usual ceremony at parting was performed, and again
-crossing the ocean, she arrived at Cwm Bychan before the dawn, with her
-attendant imps.
-
-With a fluttering heart, Jacob knocked at the door of his mistress, on
-the morning after his adventure with old Janet, and could scarcely
-believe his good fortune, when he saw Mary, with smiles of delight,
-hasten to the door, to welcome him; and he inwardly blessed the old witch
-for having performed her promise so faithfully.  He spoke of love to
-Mary, and she heard him without a frown; and so impatient was the
-accepted lover, that the third day was appointed for the marriage to take
-place.  But Jacob thought no more of the witch who had brought about his
-good fortune.
-
-The third morning came, and the bells were ringing merrily the wedding
-peal for Mary Carrol and Jacob Strongith-arm, and all their friends were
-seated at breakfast in the bride’s cottage, when, as the clock struck
-nine, three distinct and heavy knocks were heard at the door, which being
-opened, old Janet presented herself before the astonished party, for they
-all believed she had evil communication with Satan.
-
-The bridegroom grew red with shame and passion, and when Janet told him
-she had come for the payment he promised, he vowed, if she did not quit
-the house, he would tie her neck and heels, and fling her out of the
-window.  This threat made Janet wrathful, and with heavy maledictions
-that struck terror into the hearts of all the company, she turned her
-back upon them, and departed from the house.
-
-No sooner had she quitted it, than a new wonder arose—the bride flew
-hastily to her apartment, nor could all her friends prevail upon her to
-quit it.  Her former dislike to Jacob returned with redoubled violence.
-She refused to become his bride, and kneeling down returned thanks to
-heaven for the fate she had escaped.  All was confusion.  The
-disappointed bridegroom with dreadful threats of vengeance, dashed
-furiously out of the house, in the direction of Cwm Bychan.
-
-Rage subdued fear in his breast, and the pathless rocks, over which he
-had to scramble, seemed to add fresh fuel to his flames.  Long and loudly
-did he knock at the door of Janet’s hut, until maddened with delay, he
-with his foot sent it flying from its hinges, and there he saw a figure
-resembling himself modelled in wax, with a needle passed through the
-body, placed before a fire—and on a sudden Jacob began to sweat with
-fear.  All the horrors attached to this well known ceremony amongst
-witches, rushed to memory.  He remembered the story of King Duncan of
-Scotland, which he had often read over, with pious terror, in the pages
-of Hollingshed, who was in this way tortured by a witch, and, with
-prayers and ejaculations, he ran from his effigy, stumbling and breaking
-his knees over the rugged stones, while thorns and briars tore his
-quivering flesh, as, unconscious of the pain, he scrambled through.  At
-length, in horrid plight, breathless and faint, he reached his quarters
-in the town of Harlech, where he was shortly after put to bed in extreme
-agony, both of body and mind.
-
-    “Weary seven nights, nine times nine,
-    Did he dwindle, peak, and pine.”
-
-Meanwhile, General Mytton was hotly besieging the castle, which was
-defended, with almost unprecedented bravery, by William Owain, the
-governor, with no more than twenty-eight followers.  In vain did the
-clang of arms strike upon the warlike ears of Jacob;—he might have
-exclaimed, in the language of Othello—
-
-    “Farewell the plumed troop, and the big war
-    Which makes ambition virtue—oh farewell!”
-
-But, as he never read such profane authors, he contented himself with a
-pious curse or two every second on the witch who had reduced him to such
-a state of feebleness.  He who was once foremost in the onset, whose
-voice would animate his soldiers with a religious zeal, and oft reclaim
-the fortune of the fight—the brawny, fearless Presbyterian lay like a
-puling infant on his bed, wasted and pale, with scarcely breath enough to
-render himself audible to those around him.
-
-Sorely did Mytton need his aid, his reckless daring in leading an
-assault—for the stimulating energy of his example was electric.
-
-One night, when he heard the loud shouts of the enemy, and the declining
-voices of his friends, Jacob grasped his sword, and, starting from his
-bed, rushed, or rather staggered, to the barbican, which had been scaled
-by a small body of the parliament forces, who surprised the warders at
-the drawbridge, which crossed the fosse upon the inside, when, from the
-interior a body of the royalists rushed with desperate valour, the
-assailing party were forced to retreat by opening the massy gate of the
-barbican, but not without leaving many wounded and dying comrades in the
-deep fosse, into which they had been thrown during the struggle on the
-drawbridge.  At this critical moment, when disgrace appeared to hang over
-the banner of his leader, Jacob, _en chemise_, forced his way into the
-scene of action, striking terror to the foe, who took him for an
-apparition, and invigorating the hearts of his friends.  The royalists,
-who had advanced, were driven back again in their turn.
-
-But the hope of victory betrayed the besiegers to their ruin.  Jacob,
-determined to take the castle or die, with a huge axe was cutting through
-the drawbridge to deprive his followers of all hope of escape, by
-retreating that way; and the battle became furious beneath the double
-portcullis which crowns the principal entrance.  The besieged were driven
-nearly into the inner court, when the mighty voice of Owain cried
-aloud—“Let fall the portcullis!”  So promptly was this order obeyed, that
-the outer and inner grating enclosed the besiegers, as in a cage, and
-left them entirely at the mercy of their conquerors.
-
-Fortunately for Jacob, his weakness prevented him from carrying his
-purpose into effect, and he retired, covered with confusion, to his bed,
-while his companions whom he was forced to leave behind, resigned their
-arms, through the inner grating, to their enemies, and were then
-committed to the dungeons of the fortress.
-
-On the morning after this defeat, a party of men, who had been sent into
-the mountains to forage for goats, sheep, or provender of any kind that
-might fall in their way, chanced to pass near old Janet’s dwelling, and
-they resolved to revenge the cruel persecution of their captain, if they
-could light upon the witch, who had occasioned his long sufferings.
-Accordingly, they entered the cottage, where they perceived, before the
-dying embers of a turf fire, the waxen image with which she worked the
-charm, almost wasted away, but still bearing a strong resemblance to
-Jacob Strongith-arm.  This they seized, and instantly committed to the
-water, placing, at the same time, some dried wood upon the turf, which,
-with the aid of some gunpowder, was ignited.  A quantity of dried furze
-and heather was then piled upon it, and, in a short time, the flames
-communicated with the rafters of every part of the building.
-
-As they turned from the cottage, one of the party perceived an old woman
-floating upon a plank on the lake, twisting and jumping, capering and
-splashing, in a manner that made his hair stand on end.  It was old Janet
-herself, whose imps had deserted her, or he would never have been able to
-detect her at her pastime.  There she floated, twirling about, sometimes
-on one leg, and then upon the other, till all of them being convinced it
-was the witch, they resolved to seize her, and convey her to the General.
-
-Three of them, named John Brown, James Haddock, and Joseph Stilt, being
-the most courageous of the party, volunteered to capture her, though the
-devil himself stood at her elbow, while she, not knowing that her imp,
-Robin, whose power made her invisible to mortal eyes, had quitted her,
-kept dancing on, without dreaming of any harm that could befall her from
-the approach of mortals, although the plank upon which she stood nearly
-touched the border of the pool.  Suddenly, Joseph Stilt, who was the
-foremost, roared out—“The witch! the witch!—we have her!”  Janet then,
-for the first time, felt afraid; but she still had some power left, and
-Joseph Stilt, as he made a spring to come up with her, stuck fast in a
-quagmire as deep as his chin, close to the edge of the lake, where he
-remained storming, without the power to extricate himself.  James
-Haddock, who leaped over his head, sank to the bottom, and narrowly
-escaped drowning.  But John Brown, who always carried a verse of
-scripture in front of his hat, calling on the Virgin for support,
-alighted on the plank by the witch’s side, and, seizing her by the hair,
-ferried her to a safe landing place, when his comrades, James Haddock,
-and Joseph Stilt, having been assisted, by their fellows, out of
-jeopardy, assisted him to convey her to Harlech, where they were told
-that the dreadful exudations of Jacob had ceased, and, upon comparing
-their accounts, they found that his recovery commenced at the very moment
-when they flung his waxen effigy into the water, and set fire to the
-witch’s hut.
-
-When Janet was brought before the General and Jacob Strongith-arm, she
-laughed to see his once stout frame dwindled as it was, and her laugh
-frightened them all; so they tied her to a stake, and then began to
-question her; but she disdained to make any reply.  They then tried the
-torture of the thumb-screw, but Janet only spat in their faces, for the
-devil was strong within her; and James Haddock lost his eye, from the
-heat of her saliva.  The soldiers marvelled at her obstinacy, and Jacob,
-growing full of ire, commanded them to fire a harquebuss at her, if she
-persisted in her stubbornness.  But this threat only increased the
-fiendish laugh of old Janet into a yell of scorn.  All threats proving
-useless, the harquebussier fired his piece.  But how were they astonished
-to see the witch grinning defiance at them all, and holding the ball up
-between her right finger and thumb!  Another was fired at her, which she
-caught in the left!  Stilt, mad to see her triumph thus, ran at her with
-his sword, which shivered to pieces upon her breast; and all this time
-the witch laughed, and spat at, and reviled them.  At length, Brown, who
-had first arrested her, remembering he had been told that a witch, if
-bled in any of the veins that cross the temples would soon give up the
-ghost, walked boldly up to her, when the devil, scared at his intentions,
-instantly quitted his votaress, and she, left helpless, could only storm,
-and rave, and curse, and beg for life.  But Brown drew the keen blade
-across the full purple veins, and, with a scream of terror, she fell to
-the ground.
-
-Many crimes did she confess to the holy man, who attended her last
-moments; besides the one just related, which render “the little hollow,”
-a spot of fearful interest to the mountaineer, who, as he passes the lake
-at nightfall, turns many an anxious glance behind, and fancies that he
-hears, at times, the sound of unearthly voices in the gale, that sweeps
-by him in this wild and lonely dell.
-
-The castle was soon after surrendered to the Parliament forces, by its
-brave commander, who had the honor of knowing, that he was the last, who
-yielded up the trust confided to him, by his sovereign.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Our repast being concluded, we again mounted our horses, and commenced an
-ascent up a dank, cheerless hollow, called _Bwlch Tyddiad_.  Nothing can
-exceed the wildness of the scenery, by which we were surrounded.  Huge
-masses of rock, riven by the thunder bolt, or loosened by the frost, lay
-scattered in every direction, while, towering upon either side, the
-herbless mountains frowned, barren, black, grey, and terrible.
-
-Our horses, accustomed, I presume, to such excursions, picked their way
-with the greatest care and safety, and my “Gallant Brown,” cleared every
-impediment, as if he had been foaled amongst the Alps, and loved them
-better than the verdant plain.  Drawing nearer to the top of the cliff,
-the shepherds had made a stair-like path of flat stones, along which our
-cavalcade proceeded with caution; when suddenly we halted upon hearing
-the distant halloos of travellers ascending the opposite side of the
-mountain; and presently three persons, one of whom was leading a wearied
-animal by the bridle, became distinctly visible.  A shout of recognition
-from our party roused all the echoes of the surrounding hills.  The
-figures, as they became more distinct, seemed magically transported with
-myself into the heart of the Sierra Morena, where Cardenio, Don Quixote,
-and Sancho Panza, appeared to me in their proper persons; for never was
-description better realized, than in the figures that now presented
-themselves.  The first was a handsome, well formed man, with light brown
-hair, which hung in plentiful thickness upon his shoulders; his untrimmed
-beard, joined by overhanging moustachios, and the two being united to the
-upper growth, by a pair of whiskers, the luxuriance of which shewed they
-were permitted to grow in uninterrupted freedom.  His throat was bare,
-and his dress negligent.  The second figure that attracted my attention,
-was a very tall and extremely thin young man, with a serious cast of
-features, that would have done honor to the knight of the woful
-countenance.  In his hand he led a jaded hack, which in the ascent seemed
-to have yielded up three parts of its existence.  Here then was the
-Rosinante of Cervantes in a breathing form; while, by his side, a short
-good humoured little man, with a huge portmanteau buckled on his back,
-walked like a faithful squire, and made an admirable substitute for the
-immortal Sancho; and, as he turned his eyes from precipice to glen, it
-required no great stretch of imagination, to think they were wandering in
-search of his beloved Dapple.  We met upon a patch of green moss; and
-here our hamper was again unpacked, to cheer the hearts of these toil
-worn travellers.
-
-                   [Picture: View from Carreg y Saeth]
-
-By their advice, we ascended to the summit of the mountain, the view from
-which was grand and extensive.  To the eastward, a vast country lies
-beneath, bounded by Cader Idris, the two Arrenigs, and a long range of
-mountains.  Immediately under the lofty eminence, upon which we rested,
-was a small round lake, and the pass Ardudwy, which exceeds even the
-celebrated Llanberris in rugged grandeur.  The way by which our new
-companions ascended was both laborious and dangerous; but they would not
-have sacrificed the prospect now presented to them on any account.  North
-and south the eye glances over the summits of wild mountains, and to the
-west the Carnaervonshire chain, cut in two, as it were, by a high
-mountain, immediately before us, forms the shore of a noble sheet of
-water, resembling a spacious lake, where the sea stretches its arm, into
-the vale of Maentwrog, out of Cardigan Bay.  The declining sun gave us
-warning that it was time to quit these wilds, and make the best of our
-way to the foot of the mountain.
-
-The return is extremely hazardous on horseback.  The ladies of the party,
-therefore, resigning their steeds to the conduct of some mountaineers,
-and the gentlemen leading their horses by the bridle, commenced the
-descent.  But as I could not, from lameness, advantage myself by like
-caution, and feeling confident in the tact, strength, and docility of my
-favourite, I led the way, without experiencing the slightest symptom of
-uneasiness.
-
-When we had proceeded about half way down, a circumstance occurred, that
-occasioned some unpleasantness.  A horse had broken loose from one of the
-leaders, and at full speed came galloping down the steep and rugged
-descent.  The animal conducted by the tall, thin gentlemen, before
-described, started as his fellow quadruped rushed by him, and, freeing
-himself from control, dashed after him, at an alarming pace; leaving his
-late master, with eyes starting out of their sockets, and mouth wide
-open, with affright, his arms spread out, and his whole frame in
-convulsions of terror, upon the top of a large stone, ludicrously
-bewildered.  My steed, evincing the truth of the proverb, “evil
-communications” etc. for a moment lost his presence of mind, and
-despising my efforts to restrain him, bounded over sundry perilous rocky
-fragments, in desperate pursuit.  However, by divers forcible arguments,
-I at length succeeded in convincing him of his error, and he returned to
-his duty.
-
-The two runaways were soon out of sight, and as we concluded they had
-broken their necks, we moved rather solemnly to the bottom of the hollow,
-where our fears were dissipated, by finding them quietly browsing in the
-green meadows, where we had before seated ourselves at pic-nic.  All here
-remounted; the sun’s rays still lingering upon the heights of
-_Carreg-y-Saeth_, but the pool below looked black and cheerless.  As we
-proceeded, the beautiful calm light of evening, the cool and refreshing
-air, “the shard borne beetle, with his drowsy hum,” the forest flies and
-midges dancing in the clear ether, the murmuring of mountain streams, and
-the joyous notes of our little party, uniting with the sharp tones of our
-horses’ shoes, clinking against the rocky fragments, formed a combination
-of pleasing sounds and images in this romantic solitude, which I shall
-ever remember with feelings of interest and delight.  After riding about
-three miles, surrounded by every charm that could make the time pass
-pleasantly, we arrived at the place of parting.  A road branching to the
-right led directly to Harlech, a distance of about two miles; and here,
-with a feeling of regret, I hardly ever before experienced, I took leave
-of my kind conductor, and his agreeable friends, a man being appointed to
-walk with me as far as Harlech, for the purpose of taking back his
-master’s horse.
-
-Slowly and sadly I pursued my solitary ride, nor did I once address my
-attendant, until I arrived at the inn, where dismounting, I committed to
-his charge my gallant supporter throughout the day.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VIII.
-
-
-Harlech—The Inn—The Castle—Anecdote of Dafydd ap Ivan ap Einion—Road to
-Maentwrog—View—A persevering Cobbler—The Oakley Arms—Pleasures of Fly
-fishing—New Companions—Angling Stations—An Adventure—Road to Tremadoc—Tan
-y Bwlch—Port Madoc Breakwater and Mountain Scenery described—Tremadoc—Tan
-yr Allt—Pont Aber Glas Llyn—Lines written at the Bridge—Beddgelert—The
-Inn—Story of a Pointer.
-
-    “Rise from thy haunt, dread genius of the clime,
-    Rise, magic spirit of forgotten time!
-    ’Tis thine to burst the mantling clouds of age,
-    And fling new radiance on Tradition’s page:
-    See at thy call from Fable’s varied store,
-    In shadowy train the mingled visions pour;
-    Here the wild Briton ’mid his wilder reign,
-    Spurns the proud yoke and scorns the oppressor’s chain,
-    Here wizard Merlin, where the mighty fell,
-    Waves the dark wand and chaunts the thrilling spell.”
-
-                                                    _Prize Poem_, T. S. S.
-
-
-
-HARLECH.
-
-
-THE Blue Lion Inn, built by Sir R. W. Vaughan, for the accommodation of
-travellers and tourists, is most delightfully situated.  A carriage road
-from the north leads round to the front, which faces the sea; and forming
-a semicircle, permits the vehicles to drive, through a gate on the south
-end of the house, again into the high road.  Great taste is displayed in
-the erection of this pleasant building; the parapet wall, with its
-circular turrets, in which seats are placed for the accommodation of
-visitors, and the terrace with its neat shrubberies.  I must also
-acknowledge, that the kind attention of the landlord and his servants,
-deserves the highest commendation.
-
-The view from the terrace is indescribably beautiful.  The sea lies
-stretched beneath; the majestic ruins of Harlech Castle stand upon a
-rocky base, frowning in solitary grandeur upon the right; and beyond, the
-long line of Carnaervonshire hills projects, like Cambria’s lance,
-forbidding the waves to make further inroads upon her territories.
-
-Pwlhelli and Port Maddock are distinctly visible from this spot; and the
-lovers of fine prospects may remain at the Blue lion for a week, without
-wishing to stray further than the terrace in search of the sublime and
-beautiful.  The continual variety of light and shadow, with which the
-mountains are alternately robed, the freshness of the air, and the solemn
-majesty of the ruined fortress, form altogether a volume for the mind to
-peruse with intense and unwearied interest.
-
-
-
-HARLECH CASTLE.
-
-
-The present castle was built by Edward I. in 1283, upon the ruins of one
-erected by _Maelgwn Gwynedd_, Prince of North Wales, in 530.  It was
-seized by the Welsh hero, Owen Glyndwr, during his struggle for freedom
-against Henry IV, and was retaken about four years afterwards, by an army
-sent by that monarch into Wales.  After the defeat of Henry VI. at
-Northampton, this castle afforded a retreat for his queen, but being
-hotly pursued by the Lord Stanley, she was compelled to fly from hence
-with great precipitation, leaving her jewels and other valuables behind
-her.
-
-                        [Picture: Harlech Castle]
-
-In 1468, this place was in possession of Dafydd-ap-Ivan-ap-Einion, a man
-of singular strength and beauty, and of unconquerable bravery.  Being a
-firm friend to the Lancastrian line, the Earl William of Pembroke was
-despatched to reduce the fortress; and, after encountering incredible
-difficulties, marching through the very heart of the British Alps, he at
-length invested the castle, and committed the management of the siege to
-his brother Sir Richard Herbert, a man equal in size and prowess to the
-British commandant.  The reply of the Welshman, when called upon to
-surrender, deserves to be handed down as a specimen of bravery and
-loyalty.  He had never acknowledged the sovereignty of Edward; and for
-nine years, had defied his threats.  His answer was in keeping with the
-line of conduct he had adopted: “Tell your leader,” said he to the
-messenger, “that some years ago I held a castle in France against its
-besiegers so long, that all the old women in Wales talked of me: tell
-your commander, that I intend to defend this Welsh castle now, until all
-the old women in France shall hear of it.”
-
-Famine, however, at last subdued him; but he yielded only upon honourable
-terms, Sir Richard pledging himself for his safety.  The king at first
-refused to subscribe to the conditions; but Sir Richard, with a spirit
-that cannot be sufficiently applauded, instantly informed his majesty
-that he must take his own life first; for if he lived he would certainly
-replace the Welsh chieftain in his strong hold again.  The king was too
-well acquainted with the value of Sir Richard’s services and scrupulous
-honour, to persist in his unjust intentions.  He therefore, ratified the
-conditions, and pardoned the chief.  But the brave Englishman was soon
-after recalled from his military command.
-
-In the civil wars of Charles I. Harlech Castle was the last that held out
-for the king, under the command of William Owain, who surrendered on the
-ninth of March, 1647.
-
-Upon the side which faces the sea, the castle must have been impregnable;
-the walls are scarcely distinguishable from the rocky base, the whole
-being a continued surface of dark grey masonry; and the north and south
-sides appear nearly as inaccessible.  The gateway upon the eastward side
-is situated between two immense rounders, resembling those of Conway and
-Carnaervon.  The form of the castle is a square, each side measuring
-seventy yards, and at each corner is a round tower; but the turrets that
-were once attached to them the unsparing hand of Time has destroyed.
-Before the entrance is a deep fosse, cut in the solid rock; across which
-a drawbridge was constructed for security and convenience.
-
-The principal apartments are on the eastward, or entrance, side of the
-inner court.  The banqueting hall is opposite; the windows of which look
-out upon the green surface of the sea; and, on the right of the court,
-there formerly stood a small chapel; the ruins of which are still
-visible, the pointed window remaining entire.  It is impossible to
-conceive a finer view than is obtained from the towers of Harlech Castle.
-With a clear atmosphere, the monarch of the Welsh mountains may be
-distinctly seen, towering above his subject hills.  The promontories of
-Lleyn and Cricaeth Castle, are likewise objects of considerable interest;
-the latter forming a head to a long neck of land that juts into the sea
-from the Carnaervonshire coast, backed by a chain of noble mountains.
-This castle likewise owes its foundation to Edward I.
-
-Harlech is one of those places the traveller leaves with regret, and a
-feeling that he can never see any so beautiful again; and from this place
-to the village of Maentwrog, the road increases in beauty every mile.
-
-The Bay of Cardigan, expanding to the ocean, lies beneath, on the left;
-upon the right, wild rocks and woody hills alternately diversify the
-prospect, and, approaching the northern extremity of the bay, the Traith
-Mawr and Traith Bach, two arms of the sea (the former running up to Port
-Madoc, and the latter into the vale of Maentwrog), are noble objects.
-
-The Traith Bach, bounded by mountains upon either side, prepares the
-tourist for the heavenly quietude which reigns eternally in the bosom of
-this earthly paradise; and, about two miles from the village, near a farm
-house called Cemlyn, one of the most beautiful views of the valley lies
-stretched before him.  A woody dingle opens on the right, down which the
-Velin Rhyd rushes impetuously, mingling its bright waters with the
-smoothly meandering Dwyryd, which commingling, flow gracefully into
-Cardigan Bay.
-
-In front, and upon the right of the vale, lies the little picturesque
-village of Maentwrog, reposing at the foot of a lofty mountain.  Fine
-green meadow lands enrich the centre of the valley, through which the
-river, like a silver serpent, “drags its slow length along.”  Upon the
-opposite side is seen the mansion of Tan y Bwlch, backed by a mountain
-forest, and ornamented by a noble terrace in front, with pleasure grounds
-and walks, which the eye loves to rest upon.
-
-                     [Picture: The Vale of Maentwrog]
-
-The road to Festiniog, at the extreme point of the landscape, winds up
-the enclosing hills that fill up the back ground.  To be appreciated, the
-view must be seen: the most glowing description would fall incalculably
-short of the reality.
-
-At this spot I was accosted by a very inquisitive personage.
-
-“Fine evening, sir.”
-
-“Yes.”
-
-“Walking far to-day, sir?”
-
-“Yes.”
-
-“A great many gentlemen come from London to see this valley, sir.”
-
-“I suppose so,” (trying to shake him off, but it would not do).
-
-“You come from London, I think, sir?”
-
-“Why do you think so?”
-
-“Only because a great many London people come this way, sir.”
-
-“But do not many other travellers come this road, who are not Londoners?”
-
-“Oh yes, sir, but I took you for a Londoner by the cut of your coat.
-You’ve come a long way to-day, sir?”
-
-“I have, but how should you know that?”
-
-“By the condition of your boots, sir.”
-
-This was a hit I did not anticipate; for, truth to say I was nearly
-bootless, at least the _soles_ had nearly left their _bodies_, upper
-leathers I mean, and stood mortally in need of regeneration; and, as I
-had not provided myself with a second pair, thinking they would prove
-cumbersome in my knapsack, his remark was felt from toe to heel.
-
-“You’ll want these repaired, I dare say, sir, while you remain at the
-Oakley Arms—comfortable inn—capital beds, sir.”
-
-“Why I think I shall, my friend; perhaps you can recommend me to a
-cobbler, in the village yonder,” (pointing to Maen Twrog).
-
-“I am a boot maker, sir, in the village, and have cobbled, as you are
-pleased to call it, the soles of all strangers in need, for the last
-twenty years.  My father performed that office before me; and I may say,
-my all (awl) of life depends upon the gentlemen who visit our beautiful
-valley.”
-
-“You are not employed then by the inhabitants of your native village?”
-
-“I _was_, sir; but a new comer, who wrote over his door ‘leather cutter,’
-cut me out; for I never found business enough to set up a shop, and so,
-sir, I am obliged to watch for customers, to keep up my trade.  Those
-boots of yours, sir, will give me dinners for half the week, if you will
-only let me give them welts, soles, and heel-taps.  You’ve got a fine
-foot, sir.”
-
-This piece of gross flattery did not prevent my telling him to follow me
-to the inn, and receive the reward of his perseverance and industry.
-
-
-
-THE OAKLEY ARMS.
-TAN Y BWLCH.
-
-
-I was tired, and gladly resigned my dilapidated boots to the care of my
-_soles’_ physician; who, with a most respectful bow, promised to let me
-have them by eight o’clock on the following morning.
-
-Having partaken of a most excellent dish of fish, a small portion of
-roasted mutton, strawberry tartlet, cheese, celery, &c., I thought I
-should like to try my fortune in the lovely stream of Dwyryd.  I
-therefore requested the waiter to procure me the loan of a pair of shoes
-or boots, suitable for the purpose, proposing to pay for the
-accommodation.  I was soon supplied, and, anticipating a delightful
-evening’s sport, sallied forth with complete apparatus.
-
-How deceitful are the views of man!  I cast my line—it was a fatal cast—I
-struck at an imaginary or real rise, and in an instant all my hopes were
-crushed; for my rod broke off at the second joint, and sailing down the
-stream, was suddenly brought up by one of the flies hooking a fragment of
-rock.  With much trouble I recovered the shattered top pieces, but in
-endeavouring to extricate my fly, my foot slipped, and I found myself up
-to my waist in water, and my foot jammed between two pieces of rock at
-the bottom, from whence I was glad to extricate it by leaving my shoe
-behind.  It was very unfortunate.  I cursed my ill-luck, sat down upon
-the bank, put up my flies, put my broken rod in its case, and prepared to
-return to my inn.  But—I had only one shoe!  I endeavoured to recover the
-lost one, but in vain.  Doubtless it was buffetting its way amongst
-rushing waters and fragments of rock, full half a mile off by this time.
-How I should get to the Oakley Arms, through all the uneven stony ways, I
-knew not.  I could not hop all the way, it was very evident; and to
-attempt to walk with but one shoe, would deprive me of the sole of my
-foot.  At this moment, taking out my silk handkerchief to wipe my
-brows—ah!—the thing was settled.  I bound it as many times doubled as I
-could round my foot, tying it about with a part of my fishing line, and
-in this lamentable state, I reached the house.
-
-No routed warrior from the field of battle ever looked more chop-fallen
-than I, in re-entering my late happy dining-room.  It was not an hour—no,
-not an hour ago—when, all elate and joyous, I walked forth, pregnant with
-hope and jollity.  Look at me now—’twas lamentable!  I rang the bell; the
-waiter came in, and no sooner cast his eyes on me, than he broke into an
-uncontrollable laugh.  I confess I expected a very different reception,
-and my first impulse was to kick him out of the room; but casting my eyes
-upon my handkerchief-bound foot, turned the whole current of my feelings,
-and I could not forbear joining in the laugh, for the soul of me.
-
-The waiter’s view of the case was undoubtedly the correct one.  I felt
-it, and it was actually with difficulty I accounted to him for my present
-appearance, my ideas had undergone so complete a revolution from tragic
-to comic!
-
-“Well—’tis a funny world,” said I; “bring me a pair of slippers, water to
-wash, a bottle of port, and a cigar.”
-
-I was just in the marrow of my cigar, when two young gentlemen, who had
-pedestrianized from Llanrwst since the morning, entered the room.  They
-were fair-haired Saxons, and particularly unacquainted with all they had
-seen in their route.  I requested them to join me, and they were pleased
-to honour me with their company.  But their stock of information being
-remarkably small, I resolved within myself to avoid the route they
-intended to pursue on the following morning, and understanding they meant
-to visit Harlech Castle, I informed them I should pursue my way to
-Tremadoc.  As I could not extract any information from these tourists, I
-called for pen, ink and paper, and amused myself with putting down the
-events of the day, while one of the young men flung his legs upon the
-sofa, and the other placed his feet on the fender.  Deep sonorous notes
-soon succeeded this arrangement, and I pursued my task without any other
-interruption, until my attention was drawn to the heavy pattering of rain
-against the window, and the whistling of a keen wind through the passage.
-I felt chilly, and drew nearer the fire.  The task I imposed upon myself
-being finished, and the servant having brought me my bed candlestick, I
-retired to rest, leaving my agreeable companions in the midst of a nasal
-duet.
-
-Oh, the comforts of a clean room, clean sheets, and a good bed!  These I
-experienced at the Oakley Arms; and I arose refreshed, and eager to
-commence my walk; but I was doomed to disappointment, for on drawing up
-the blind of my window, a dark and dismal morning presented itself, the
-rain falling in torrents, and the lovely valley transformed into a gloomy
-gorge of rolling clouds.  What’s to be done? thought I; jump into bed
-again, answered my careful spirit.  I obeyed the suggestion, and slept
-another hour, when I again awoke, and on inspection found the day still
-melancholy and tearful.
-
-I descended to the breakfast room, and there I found my quondam
-companions in precisely the same attitudes I had left them on the
-preceding night;—as motionless and silent, but their musical instruments
-were out of order, I suppose, as they no longer sent forth their former
-deep tones, and their eyes indeed were differently directed; the
-gentleman on the sofa inspecting the ceiling; the other profoundly
-scrutinizing a Dutch figure on the chimney-piece, with a foaming pot of
-porter in one hand, and a short pipe in the other.  It was neither Souter
-Johnny, nor Toby Philpot; but I involuntarily roared out “dear Tom, this
-brown jug,” &c.  It was like an electric shock to the tourists.  One
-leaped from the sofa, and the other withdrew his feet from the fender
-with precipitation; first stared at each other, and then both at me, in
-mute astonishment.  I cheerfully bade them good-morrow, and we sat down
-to breakfast.
-
-Never did I pray more heartily for a shelter from the storm, than I did
-now for a gleam of sunshine to cheer me in this horrid calm.  These rival
-Incubuses fretted me.—Ha! who’s that curtseying to me as she passes?—Oh
-she opens her basket, intimating she has something to sell; they are
-hose, I perceive.  The rain increases rather than abates its violence.
-
-“Come hither, my girl,” said I, as I beckoned her to come in.  “She will
-assist in beguiling the tedious morning,
-
-    “That like a foul and ugly witch
-    Does limp so tediously away.”
-
-And, having nothing better to do, I put the events of our interview into
-rhyme.
-
-                                  TRAVELLER.
-
-    “Where art thou going, pretty lass?
-    The rain falls thick and fast;
-    Come in, and dry thy mantle, maid,
-    And shun the bleak cold blast.”
-
-                                    GIRL.
-
-    “I heed not, sir, the mountain gale,
-    Nor thickly falling rain;
-    For my poor mother lies at home
-    In sickness and in pain;
-       And I must haste to sell my work,
-       And much I have to spare,
-       That I may purchase winter store
-       To free her mind from care.
-    For she is old, and quite infirm,
-    And child hath none but me,
-    And oh her heart is yearning now
-    My face again to see.”
-
-                                  TRAVELLER.
-
-    “Cold is the heart that would not beat
-    To see that face of thine,
-    Where sweet simplicity hath traced
-    Her lineaments divine.”
-       She turned away her head to hide
-       A tear upon her cheek;
-       While piety beamed in her eye,
-       And resignation meek.
-
-                                    GIRL.
-
-    “Oh do not, do not stay me, sir,
-    For I must to the fair,
-    To sell my hose, and purchase food,
-    And things for winter wear.”
-
-                                  TRAVELLER.
-
-    “I’ll buy thy hose; thou shalt not walk
-    Beneath the drenching rain,
-    But tarry here until the sun
-    Shines brightly forth again.”
-       Her hose were bought, she sought her home
-       With smiles upon her face;
-       Her heart was light, her eyes were bright
-       Her every motion, grace.
-    And happy was the traveller’s heart
-    When bidding her farewell;
-    Her glance of gratitude, said all,
-    And more, than tongue could tell.
-
-By the time I had committed this little effusion to paper, the sun shone
-out gloriously; and it had the astonishing effect of giving a sort of
-animation to the mute gentlemen, who absolutely rose from their drowsy
-postures and walked to the window.  Thank heaven! I mentally exclaimed; I
-have a chance now of getting rid of my “musty superfluity;” but I was
-mistaken.
-
-“You will now be able to start for Harlech,” said I.
-
-“Why a—” drawled one, “I am afraid it’s too late, as we wish to get to
-bed early to-night.  What do you say, Tom?”
-
-“Why I think so too, Dick; and so we’ll be happy to join you, sir, in
-your walk, as I think you said you intended proceeding to Tremadoc.”
-
-I said I should be happy, with a smile, that extracted from one of them
-the question, “Ain’t you well, sir?”
-
-Without replying, I proceeded to put up my little all in the knapsack;
-having first desired the waiter to bring my bill.
-
-“You’d better put it all together, and we can divide it,” said they.
-
-I agreed, and it being discharged, after paying for the shoes which I
-borrowed for my evening’s sport, and for the repairing, which was
-excellently performed by my loquacious cobbler, I started with my two
-hopeful friends for Tremadoc.  We however, first went to view the grounds
-of Tan-y-bwlch, the seat of W. G. Oakley Esq.  The name signifies “below
-the pass:” it is situated on the side of a hill which overlooks the vale.
-
-From the terrace of this mansion you command one of the most romantic
-views in Wales.  Harlech Castle is visible upon the right; the
-Merionethshire mountains tower in the distance, and the entire valley,
-from Festiniog to Traeth Bychen, watered by the river Dwyryd, is
-interesting beyond description.  Lord Lyttleton tells us, in his
-observations upon this valley, that an honest Welsh farmer, who died
-there at 105 years of age, had by his first wife thirty children, ten by
-his second, and four by his third.  His eldest son was eighty-one years
-older than his youngest, and 800 persons, descended from his body,
-attended his funeral.
-
-I should be doing injustice to the worthy landlord of the Maentwrog Inn,
-whose house I used upon my second visit to this delightful valley, did I
-not speak in praise of his attention to the comforts of all travellers.
-Good beds, civil waiters, excellent fare, and cheap charges, render this
-one of the very best inns in Wales.  And hear, ye lingering tourists! you
-may have bed and board for the inconsiderable sum of one guinea per week;
-which I think a very considerable temptation to remain at it a month, for
-there is sufficient in the neighbourhood to interest the most phlegmatic
-of Adam’s progeny.  From hence may be visited the following interesting
-places.  The village of Festiniog, three miles, where there are two good
-inns, the Pengwern Arms, and the Newborough Arms, where post horses and
-cars are always in readiness; there is also a good boarding-house kept by
-Miss Owen.  The falls of Cynfael, two and a half; the slate quarries,
-five and a half; the cataracts of the Rhaiadr Du and Ravenfall, two
-miles; Llyn Llyanyrch, three and a half, where the trout are excellent;
-Cwmorddin Pool, lies to the northward, about four and a half miles, to
-which the tourist may be conducted by the railroad.  There is a house at
-each end of the lake where the angler will find accommodation from the
-hospitable owners for a trifling remuneration.  Lynn Mannot contains very
-large trout, and is six miles from Maentwrog, and Llyn Morwynion is about
-the same distance.
-
-                [Picture: The Raven Fall, near Maentwrog]
-
-We proceeded along the lower road by the north side of the salts, as the
-inhabitants of the valley call the arm of the sea, which here has the
-appearance of a lake begirt with mountains, craggy cliffs, and shadowing
-woods.  Here we bade adieu to the delightful valley of Festiniog, and,
-after walking about four miles along a pleasant road, a noble sheet of
-water met our eyes, which appeared to be hemmed in by inaccessible
-mountains, differing in form from those we had left behind, being more
-conical, and some shooting upwards like pyramids into the clouds.
-
-As we proceeded, we discovered it to be the Traeth Mawr, which as the sea
-is hidden from us by a breakwater, has the appearance of a broad lake.
-
-Upon this breakwater, which extends across the bay, is a railroad which
-conveys slates from the quarries at Festiniog to Port Madoc, where it is
-calculated ten thousand tons are shipped annually.  Port Madoc receives
-its name from the late William Alexander Maddoc Esq., of Tan-y-allt, as
-does the town of Tremadoc.
-
-The extraordinary efforts of this enterprising man caused him to be
-looked up to as the Prince of the soil.  He redeemed, by constructing an
-embankment of nearly one mile in length from north to south, across the
-Traeth Mawr, at the eastern extremity of Cardigan Bay, a tract of more
-than 2,700 acres of land.  This enterprise was completed in 1811, and
-cost upwards of £100,000; so that, with the lands previously recovered,
-no less than 7000 acres have been regained, 6000 of which are cultivated.
-
-The view from the breakwater is perhaps the finest in North Wales for
-distant mountain scenery.  When the tourist has reached the centre of it,
-let him turn his back upon the sea, and upon his right he will perceive a
-hill, called Plas Newedd, from which a range of Alpine scenery stretches
-up to the monarch of Snowdonia, who towers pre-eminent in the distance.
-Upon his left another range, commencing with a hill called Moel Ghaist,
-leads up to the same grand object, and the extraordinary variety
-displayed in the formation of these wonderful masses with varying lights
-and shadows that adorn them with sunny crowns or misty mantles, produce a
-sublimity of effect I never before experienced.  A bridge joins the
-breakwater to the quay at Port Madoc, under which the tide rushes with
-great impetuosity, covering a vast extent of ground at the flood, which
-is left nearly dry at the ebb.  About half a mile from Port Madoc, upon a
-rising ground, stands a handsome house, once the property, though not the
-principal residence, of the great speculator, which is now inhabited by
-Mr. Williams, a solicitor, and agent to the creditors of the deceased.
-Proceeding along the road, in a short time the tourist obtains a peep at
-the little town of Tremadoc; but before reaching it he perceives the
-church, an elegant building, with a tower and lofty spire, which forms a
-principal object in the landscape.  The archway, under which the church
-is approached, is a beautiful specimen of workmanship, and does equal
-credit to the taste of the founder and execution of the builder.  Divine
-service is read here in the English language every Sunday, which is a
-great accommodation to the English families residing in the
-neighbourhood, as there is no other church within twenty miles where it
-is so performed.
-
-
-
-TREMADOC
-
-
-or the town of Madoc, is built quadrangularly, and in the centre of the
-square is a column with a pedestal, round which are twelve steps.  On the
-eastern side is a commodious market house, above which are the assembly
-rooms.  A market is held here on Fridays, and the Barmouth and Carnaervon
-coach passes through three times a-week.
-
-Having refreshed ourselves with a luncheon of salad and cold meat, we
-three trudged off together, in spite of wind and weather, which
-threatened a speedy commencement of hostilities.  Large masses of vapoury
-clouds were driven above our heads; the swallows skimmed the surface of
-the river, and brushed the standing corn with their swift wings, as they
-flew along in the pursuit of their prey; and the wind blew loud and
-shrilly, as in the month of November.  At a short distance from the town,
-upon the Beddgelert road, is a lofty hill, the base of which is planted
-with fir trees; through which a path winds up to the mansion of
-Tan-yr-allt, the late beautiful residence of Mr. Madocks.  We had not
-proceeded far, when we were compelled to seek shelter in a hollow, of
-which there are many at the feet of the enormous precipices which
-overhang the road.
-
-The transient storm having passed away, and sunshine once more lighting
-up the valley, we again pushed forward.  The Merionethshire mountains
-upon the right, decked in their countless hues of rock and heather, over
-which the departing storm swept with its rolling clouds, in dark
-magnificence, formed a noble subject for the artist’s pencil.  The road
-is elevated above the meadows which enrich the centre of the vale; and
-the river, which flows through them, having risen above its banks and
-spread itself over a considerable tract of country, resembled an
-extensive lake.
-
-About half way between Tremadoc and Beddgelert, is a small dingle upon
-the left of the road, with a neat lodge at the entrance, and a path
-leading up to the shrubbery, beneath which a mountain stream flows
-rapidly, and empties itself into the Rhine.  The path leads up to the
-residence of Capt. Parry.  As we proceeded, numerous falls dashed down
-the mountains and plunging into hollows underneath the road, emerged
-again upon the other side.  We were several times forced to take shelter
-from the heavy showers under fallen blocks of rock; and once as the storm
-abated, and we looked anxiously out to see if it was clear enough to
-pursue our journey, a glorious rainbow, stretching across the valley, its
-points resting upon the mountains on either side, struck even my
-snow-models of men with something like sensibility; for as they crept out
-of their sheltering rock, they observed with infantine simplicity, “Well,
-really that’s very pretty.”  We now proceeded at a rapid pace, and the
-river became more deep and narrow, and the circling eddies, as they
-floated down the stream, announced to us that we were approaching the
-fall of a great body of water, when suddenly—whizz, whirr, clash, splash,
-dash, astounding and astonishing—
-
-
-
-ABER GLAS LLYNN,
-
-
-                       [Picture: Pont Aber Glaslyn]
-
-with all its world of horrors, burst at once upon our view.  I felt a
-tremulous sensation within me; a contraction of the muscles of my throat;
-an hysterical sob, and a desire to weep.  I stood stone still; while my
-edifying companions pursued their way without making a single
-observation.  I halted upon the centre of the bridge, and gave vent to my
-feelings in pencilling down the following
-
-
-
-LINES
-WRITTEN ON THE BRIDGE AT ABER GLAS LLYNN.
-
-
-    Thou of the stormy soul, who left behind
-    The love of sunny skies and smiling vales,
-    With thy fresh boyhood; thou upon whose brow
-    Stern care hath written gloom, and worldly wrongs
-    Made darksome; hither bend thy leaden steps,
-    And find a home here in this wild abyss!—
-    Abode congenial to thy lightless mind.
-    Ye black huge rocks, drear, mountainous, and stern,
-    First-born of chaos, everlasting piles
-    And monuments of the creation—hail!
-    Around your heads the thunder rolls in vain,
-    And the fierce lightnings from your summits bare
-    Turn harmless.  Frown, frown on, ye giants stern,
-    Majestic emblems of eternity!
-    The torrents are your tongues, and with their roar
-    Talk of your dignity for ever.  Hail!
-    White foaming, thundering, falls the boiling flood;
-    Rocks clash, and echo mocks the horrid din,
-    While man appalled, stands breathless, in amaze,
-    And, filled with awe, exalts his thoughts to Him,
-    Who was, who is, and aye must be supreme!
-
-Just above the bridge is a semicircular rock, which forms a salmon-leap,
-over which the salmon, at spawning time, first lodge themselves at the
-height of five or six yards.  Proceeding through the pass, at every step
-new wonders met the eye.  The late heavy rains had swollen the mountain
-waterfalls, and caused a terrific torrent to roar and struggle through a
-narrow channel; for the mountains, forming this southern end of the vale,
-approach so near to each other, that they only afford a contracted flow
-for the river, and a narrow road, while their rocky sides rise so
-perpendicularly, that their summits are scarcely farther distant from
-each other than their foundations.  The rushing river was a pure sheet of
-white; furious, uncontrollable; nothing but the immense blocks riven from
-the mountain’s craggy sides could withstand its dreadful impetuosity.  A
-few stunted fir and larch trees at the commencement of the pass were seen
-starting from the dark clefts upon either side, which threw a deeper
-shade upon this awful valley.
-
-Cradock calls this pass “the noblest specimen of the _finely horrid_ the
-eye can possibly behold.  The poet,” he continues, “has not described,
-nor the painter pictured so gloomy a retreat.  ’Tis the last approach to
-the mansion of Pluto, through the regions of Despair.”  I could have
-stopped for hours to admire this splendid example of the sublimity of
-Nature, but time pressed, so I pushed on to Beddgelert which is not more
-than a mile and a half from the bridge.  A solitary mountain ash which
-grows about half way up the pass, is the sole bright thing in this abode
-of terror, and looks like Beauty in desolation.  Emerging from the pass
-there is a stone which is called the chair of Rhys Gôch o’r’ Ryri; a
-famous mountain bard who lived in the time of Owen Glyndwr.  He resided
-at the entrance into the Traeth Mawr Sands, from whence he used to walk,
-and sitting upon this stone compose his poems.  He died in 1420, at the
-advanced age of 120 years; he was a gentleman of property, and was buried
-in the ancient priory at
-
-
-
-BEDDGELERT.
-
-
-Some are of opinion that this word should be written Celert or Cilert,
-Bedd-Cilert, or Cilert’s grave; supposing that a monk or saint of that
-name was buried here.  Another celebrated bard was entombed at this
-place, named Daffydd Nanmor, who died about the year 1460.
-
-The Goat is an excellent inn, and every attention the traveller can
-desire is paid with the greatest celerity.  Twenty post horses are kept
-at this inn for travellers, and eight or ten ponys for the accommodation
-of those visitors who wish to ascend Snowdon with ease and safety. {240}
-
-At nine o’clock, I strolled from the inn to the bridge, where I was
-joined by a peasant, who, by his appearance, promised to be
-communicative.  It was a lovely evening; there was no moon, but the clear
-sky displayed its burning host, in beautiful array.  No breath of air
-disturbed the silent slumbers of the peaceful woods.  The lull of
-rippling waters alone struck upon the ear, yielding a solemn tone like
-the deep swell of the organ, breaking upon the deepest solitude.
-
-In such a situation how indescribable is the feeling which takes
-possession of us!  What language can express, what tongue can utter it?
-My very breathing seemed to disturb the excessive sweetness of nature’s
-melody.
-
-“This is a very pretty place, sir,” said the peasant, interrupting my
-reverie.
-
-“It is indeed,” I replied.
-
-“I suppose, sir, you’ve been to visit the grave of Gelert, Llewellyn’s
-hound?”
-
-“I have.  Do you believe the legend?”
-
-“Indeed, sir, I do,” said he with a sigh; “but I never thought a man
-could feel so much for the death of a brute, until last year—_hai how_!”
-
-This observation made me inquisitive to know what had so suddenly changed
-his opinions.  “What has caused you, my friend, to believe in a legend so
-suddenly, which you never gave any credence to before?”
-
-“Why sir, I’ll tell you; you must know that I had a favourite pointer
-bitch, _Truan Bac_.  Oh, she was the beautifullest creature you ever saw.
-She was the pride of the country; and gentlemen would come to me and say,
-‘William, will you lend me your little bitch to go a shooting on the
-mountains—_only for a day_?  Because you see, sir, there was not her
-equal in all Wales, for a single dog; ay, and she’d back as staunch as
-any on ’em, and a better retriever never went into a field.  Such a nose!
-ah! poor wench; I never knew thy equal!  You must think, sir, I was very
-loath to let her go without me, for I bred her, and broke her in—though
-very little breaking she wanted;—and you know, sir, a good dog is soon
-spoilt by a bad sportsman, and the creatures be as fond of a good shot,
-as he be fond of shooting to a good dog.  No day was too long for her
-when the scent lay.  The motion of your hand was enough for her; to the
-right, or left, or take the fences.  She’d never baulk her game, or make
-a false point; if the birds had just gone off, you might know she was
-doubtful by a _leetle_ motion in her tail.  But, if she stood stiff and
-staunch, you might bet a guinea to a mushroom that there was game before
-her, and you’d nothing to do but to go up and take your shot.  Down she
-was to charge, and, if you bade her, she would bring your bird without
-ruffling a feather.  Well, sir, the beginning of last August
-unfortunately she had a litter of pups.  ’Twas a cross breed,
-_ysywaith_!—and I got the butcher’s boy to destroy them, which he did,
-and buried them in the muck heap, at the back of the stable.  From that
-time, she would never stir from her bed, that was under the manger.  My
-dame took her her food as usual, and placed it just inside the stable
-door.  My little boy, Billy, went next day, with a mess of potatoes and
-barley meal, but told his mother that Rose had’nt eat up her yesterday’s
-mess.  Ah! she cried, she’ll eat it when she’s hungry, I warrant her.
-Billy went next evening, but her victuals were untouched, and, when he
-went to coax her, she growled at him, and showed her teeth—a thing she
-never in her life had done before to any living being; so he was
-frightened, and told me of it next morning, and I went to the stable to
-see her.  Her meat was all dried up in the tub, and, when I went to her,
-she seemed nothing but skin and bones.  I called her Rose! poor Rose! she
-slowly raised up her head, opened her bloodshot eyes, and moaned so
-piteously!  I thought she was dying.  I held her a little milk; she just
-moistened her tongue, and gave one wag of her tail, as much as to say,
-thank you, master; and her head dropt again, and her eyes closed.  I knew
-’twas four days since she had eaten any thing.  I put some food by her,
-and went to my work.  When I returned at night, the first thing I did was
-to go into the stable, where I found the food untouched and my poor
-little bitch dead, cold and stiff.  I shall never forget it—_wela_!
-_wela_!—I drew her from under the manger, and what do you think, sir?
-I’ll be shot, if there warn’t her five little pups that the butcher’s boy
-had kill’d!—she had dug them out of the dung-hill one by one, and laid
-them in her kennel, and, fearing they would be taken from her again she
-concealed them with her body, and died through starvation, rather than
-give ’em up!  Wasn’t that nature, sir?  I’m almost ashamed to say it; but
-indeed, sir, I wiped away tears from my cheeks, when I saw that sight.  I
-took her up in my arms, and buried her and her young litter in the same
-grave; and since that time I never refuse my belief to the stories I hear
-of surprising instances of devoted affection, gratitude, and instinct, in
-any of her race.  _Wela_! _wela_!
-
-“But sir, if you should come this way on your return, and should want a
-day or two’s good sport on the mountains, I’ve got a dog that’s second to
-none in the country, and I shall be proud to serve you.”
-
-I promised, if I should find it convenient to return by the first of
-September, to engage his dog, if not previously hired; and bidding him
-follow me to the Goat, I ordered for him a tumbler of whiskey-punch,
-which spirit is as much esteemed in Snowdonia as in the mountains of
-Wicklow.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER IX.
-
-
-Departure from Beddgelert—Vortigern’s Hill—Snowdon—Llynn Gwynant—Lines
-written upon Llynn Gwynant—Gwrydd—Public Houses—Lake Fishing—A Night
-Adventure—Pass of Llanberis—Legend of the Giant’s Night-Cap—The Lakes—The
-Castle of Dolbadarn and Legend—View of the Lakes.
-
-    “Oh, who hath stood on Snowdon’s side,
-    And glanced o’er Mona’s virgin pride;
-    And gazed on fatal Moel y don,
-    But thought of those once there undone?
-    When Saxons, and their foreign band,
-    Were crushed by the sons of the mountain land.”
-
-                                                _T. J. Llewelyn Grichard_.
-
-ON the following morning I quitted the inn, where every attention was
-shewn that a traveller could desire, and proceeded over the Ivy bridge,
-through which the Gwynant flowed, deep and smooth as glass, without an
-obstruction to ruffle its clear waters, that glided along, kissing its
-verdant banks, like the stream of a happy life.  Quietude reigned in this
-region uninterrupted.  About half a mile from Beddgelert, a rocky
-eminence projects into the road, called _Vortigern’s Hill_, or _Dinas
-Emrys_, a magician, who was sent for to this place by Vortigern, when he
-found himself hated by his subjects, and fled from their just anger to
-this secluded spot.  Passing this memorable place, a round clump of rock
-attracts the eye, rising as it were in the centre of the valley, and
-called _Moel Wynn_.  Looking backward, _Moel Hebog_, the Hawk hill, rises
-majestically and closes up the entrance to Beddgelert.  Moel Shebbod
-towers in front, and, as we pursued our delightful path, about two miles
-and a half from Beddgelert, an opening of the hills upon the left
-displayed a deep gorge, and the base of Snowdon, whose high peak, rising
-in the unclouded skies, held up the holy symbol of Christianity, as in
-adoration of the Creator.  At length, I reached _Llynn Dinas_, a lake of
-about three quarters of a mile in extent, through which the Gwynant runs;
-it is surrounded by lofty mountains of a deeper tint than is usually seen
-upon the Welsh hills.  A beautifully situated cottage here at the far end
-of the lake, belonging to Mr. Sampson, nestles among the protecting
-woods, and forms a delightful object.  The river which feeds the lake,
-winds through the verdant and undulating grounds which form a miniature
-park, between the cottage and the lake.  Following up the course of the
-stream, I left Llynn Dinas behind me, and proceeded by a gradual ascent
-through the most delightful scenery I ever beheld, until I caught
-glimpses through the plantations of
-
-
-
-LLYNN GWYNANT,
-
-
-and after a while beheld it stretching beneath me upon my left hand.  The
-valley forms a bowl among the hills.  The bottom is a small grassy plain,
-dotted with trees, which has obtained the appellation of Beauty sleeping
-in the lap of Terror.  The mountains that surround the vale, have a wild
-and rugged appearance.  As I proceeded along the road towards the head of
-the valley, a horn was sounded from the mountain, and I perceived a Welsh
-girl standing upon a projecting eminence: bare headed and bare footed,
-was this nymph of Cambria; her cheeks were swelled out with her
-occupation, and she looked like a female _Boreas_, bursting with the wind
-she was sending forth by degrees to alarm the _world_.
-
-She eyed me with glances of curiosity all the while, and I thought she
-could perhaps give me some information about the valley, which might be
-interesting; so quitting the direct road, I scrambled up the hill side,
-and asked her the meaning of her sounding the horn so loudly?  But she
-either did not, or would not, understand me; and after vainly
-endeavouring to extract any thing from her, I quietly sat myself down,
-delighted by the splendid view beneath me, and gave vent to my feelings
-in the following lines:
-
-
-
-LLYNN GWYNANT.
-
-
-    Llynn Gwynant, Llynn Gwynant! how bless’d should I be,
-    When the winter of life crowns my temples with snow,
-    To rest on thy margin, with her who loves me,
-    And children whose love gathers strength as they grow.
-
-    There are mountains whose peaks rise more lofty by far,
-    And valleys more spacious and fertile to view,
-    But of all the high hills and green glens that there are,
-    Llynn Gwynant give me, with its waters of blue.
-
-    Lynn Gwynant, Lynn Gwynant! I bid thee farewell,
-    Where peace in the beauty of solitude glows,
-    Again in the cold hearted city to dwell,
-    And pine for the calm of thy blissful repose.
-
-    Farewell to the lake with the surface of glass,
-    Brown heath and blue mountains—abode of the free!
-    This heart, like the flood from the high _Ffynnon Las_, {250}
-    Will leap from its gloom to find rapture in thee.
-
-Having nearly reached the extremity of this valley, I gazed, from my
-elevated situation, upon the dark and perpendicular rocks on the opposite
-side; and towering in the air immediately over the centre of the valley
-was an eagle with expanded wings, apparently motionless.  Presently it
-rose a little higher, but without the slightest visible exertion, then
-stooped again, mounted once more, and, as fast as the eye could follow,
-swept round the huge buttresses of sharp ridged cliffs, that hang over
-the entrance of the pass of Llanberis.
-
-As Llynn Gwynant is gradually shut out from the lingering gaze of the
-traveller, (who it may be said during the whole of the ascent, should
-turn his eyes behind him), and he at length looks forward in the
-direction of Llanberris, a new scene of grandeur bursts upon him.  He has
-left beauty behind in its loveliest form;—but the sublime and wonderful
-now call forth all the springs of admiration.
-
-            [Picture: Snowdon, from the Pass of Llyn Gwynant]
-
-Snowdon again appears in all his splendor!  Mountains that by comparison
-looked like hillocks rise round his regal waist, in groups numerous and
-picturesque.  The deep black crags that form the western side of the
-valley make a magnificent fore-ground, and open here like nature’s gates,
-to disclose the secrets of her bosom.
-
-The accompanying etching, gives an admirable idea of this imposing scene.
-About a mile from hence is a place called Gwrydd, where there is a small
-public house, with a sign signifying nothing.  Here I resolved to “rough
-it” for a day, intending to fish the lakes, situated immediately above
-this spot, as nature’s cisterns to water the pleasant valleys.
-
-The public house possesses a small parlour, carpetted, with half a dozen
-hair-bottomed chairs, and a mahogany table.  A silent but most
-importunate monitor urged me to discover what food this mountain chalet
-could produce.  “Eggs and bacon,” was the expected reply to my question;
-and I soon had the pleasure of seeing this humble, but most grateful,
-fare placed before me, and in spite of the indifferent style of the
-cooking, I partook of it eagerly, having that incomparable sauce “a good
-appetite.”
-
-After I had repaired my broken rod, I ascended the mountain at the back
-of the house, and arrived at a large oval lake, in which the black and
-sterile rocks that form inaccessible ramparts on one side are reflected
-in its generally unruffled surface.  The scene is wild and desolate, such
-as Despair herself would select for her abode.  There are plenty of fish
-in this lake, but they are all small and extremely shy.  I remained upon
-its margin until the shadows of night gave me warning to attend to my
-safety, and make the best of my way to my lodging, where I speedily
-ascended by a ladder-like staircase to a kind of cock-loft which was
-divided into two compartments, one for the accommodation of the family,
-man, wife, children and servants, the other fitted up for travellers.
-Sleep soon overtook me, and I should have continued to sleep, I have no
-doubt, until breakfast time, had I not been awakened by a trifling
-accident.
-
-    “At the mid hour of night, when stars were weeping,”
-
-and ghosts of the mighty walk upon the hills, with a variety of other
-interesting objects that poets and nursery maids have described
-infinitely better than I can pretend to do, I was visited by a dream in
-which the ghost of a lobster popped his head out of a salad bowl, and
-demanded upon what authority I had presumed to make mince-meat of his
-body, when a loud crash roused me from my slumber, and I found myself
-with my knees, doubled up to my chin upon the floor; the bedstead having
-broken in the middle, and deposited me in this unenviable position.  I
-need not say that for the remaining part of the night, I was wholly left
-to waking reveries, and uncontrollable desires for the blessings of
-daylight, which at last greeted my longing eyes, and hurrying on my
-clothes, I descended and walked forth to scent the morning air, in the
-direction of Llanberris.  The mists rolled like troubled lakes in the
-valleys, and the black bleak rocks looked cheerless and forbidding.  The
-breeze was keen and piercing, and I started at a round pace to get myself
-warm by exercise.  Having reached the summit of the roadway, I plunged at
-once into the pass of Llanberis, wild and gloomy.  The precipices on my
-left looked truly terrible, like the shadow of death wrapped in a vapoury
-shroud.  This pass is above four miles in length, and is a fine specimen
-of rugged grandeur.  Not a single tree enlivens with its verdure this
-tremendous chasm.  Range above range of rocks tower over the traveller
-upon either side, bearing various tints of black, brown, green and
-purple, according to the disposition of the sun’s rays, and the distances
-of the ponderous masses.  The rocks on both sides are nearly
-perpendicular; and, about two miles down the pass, the tourist will
-perceive some prodigious masses of rock upon his right hand that have
-fallen from the overhanging cliffs, which, when he pauses to look upon,
-will strike a feeling of terror into his heart, as he inwardly exclaims,
-“could any one have witnessed the descent of this tremendous mass?”  The
-accompanying sketch gives a most accurate description.
-
-                       [Picture: Pass of Llanberis]
-
-I stood contemplating this scene, and suddenly a wild shout roused me
-from my reverie.
-
-“Halloo, halloo! over—over—over!”
-
-I turned my eyes up the mountain to my left, and there saw a shepherd,
-forming a speaking trumpet with his hands, and shouting to a dog (of what
-kind heaven knows, but in my opinion a thorough bred mongrel), and the
-fleet animal was dashing down the hill in the direction to where I stood.
-In an instant, he had passed me.  It was a perfect nondescript! a thing
-that looked like the offspring of a French poodle and a Welsh goat; such
-a mass of hair, rags and wool, I never before beheld.  I sat watching his
-progress, which was exceedingly rapid, and as I marked him, as he
-scrambled up the opposite craggs, I could not help admiring the instinct
-(or training) of the wretched looking animal.  Sheep after sheep did it
-pursue, and drive down into the hollow from which they had strayed—some
-of them leading him a chase (of no enviable description) nearly to the
-summit of the barren mountain; but, with untired feet and unceasing bark,
-he tracked and outstripped them all, and, in conclusion, forced them into
-the bounds allotted for them at the bottom of the vale, where a scanty
-supply of grass served for them to browse upon.  This duty done, the
-faithful animal left them, and again crossing the valley, rushed by me
-and rejoined his master.
-
-I was about to pursue my journey, when I perceived a man fishing in the
-stream beneath.  I descended to learn what sport he had met with, and
-found he had not been fortunate.  I asked him if he remembered the time,
-when the huge rock, I have before noticed, fell from the brow of the
-precipice?
-
-“It would be hard for me to do that, sir,” said the fisherman, who laying
-his rod upon the ground, seemed desirous of saying something more upon
-the subject.
-
-“Is there any legend about it?” I inquired.
-
-“Indeed, sir, there is,” replied he; “and, if you’ll only stop till I put
-up my tackle, as I suppose you’re going to Llanberis, I’ll tell you as
-much as I know about the matter.”
-
-I remarked, as he spoke, an expression of countenance that told me he
-thought tale telling might prove more profitable than trout fishing; but
-I readily agreed to his proposition, and in a few minutes we were
-trudging, side by side, along the road towards the village.
-
-I dare say, sir, you havn’t come so far, without seeing _Cader Idris_, or
-the _Chair of Idris_, as it is called, for Idris _Gawr_ you must know,
-sir, was a famous giant of his day, but whether you have or not, he had a
-brother, sir, as I’ve been told, _Dyn Ddu o’r’ Craig_, which means the
-black man of the craig, who had a very fine castle upon the top of that
-precipice, at the foot of which you noticed those large pieces of rock.
-Well, sir, he never loved his brother, but he had a great liking for his
-niece; one of the prettiest girls, ’twas thought, ever seen in this part
-of the country; but she was to be married to a fine young hero, one of
-the knights of King Arthur’s round table, who had done wonders for her
-sake, and made all the world confess _Merch Idris_ was the most beautiful
-creature in the world.
-
-Well, sir, she was mortally afraid of her uncle, for he had a head as big
-as the top of Snowdon, and a forest of whiskers, and a beard that a man
-might take a day’s shooting in, without tearing his coat with the
-branches; so that he never could be conquered, having so much game in
-him, ha! ha! ha!—You’ll excuse me, sir, but what a comfortable thing it
-must be for a man to catch birds enough in his whiskers, to serve him for
-dinner!—Well, sir, it happened that Merch Idris was benighted between
-Capel Curig and her father’s castle, and, as she had only one attendant,
-and he was a poor weak coward, you may easily suppose she was for getting
-home as fast as possible; but a storm came on, and the night closed round
-them, and by some means or other they lost their way; for you know, sir,
-at that time there were no turnpike roads, as there are now, and they
-wandered about upon their merlins until nightfall, without knowing what
-part of the world they were in; when all of a sudden, the servant’s
-beast, who went first, sank into a bog, up to his neck; and his rider
-began to roar for help so loudly, that the lady’s animal took fright, set
-off at full speed, and never stopped until they came to the gates of a
-large castle.  The night was so dark, she couldn’t make out whether she
-had ever seen it before or not; however, she thought it would be better
-to blow the horn at the gate, and ask for shelter, than wander about the
-mountains all night, at the risk of breaking her neck, or being smothered
-in a quagmire.  So she blew a blast (for at that time o’ day every great
-lady played upon some instrument or other, and this young lady surpassed
-all others upon the horn) so loud, that presently a warden called out
-from the top of a tower.  “Who’s there?”  Well, she mustered up courage
-enough to say, she was “A lady in great distress.”
-
-“Oho!” says the warden, and off he set.  Now the young lady scarcely knew
-how to take the salutation of the warden, whether it was meant friendly
-or otherwise.  She had not pondered long upon those mysterious sounds,
-when the portcullis was raised, and the first living thing she saw was
-her tremendous uncle Dyn Ddu o’r’ Craig! with a hundred torches behind
-him, ready to welcome her into his castle.  You may be sure she was not
-much pleased at his presence, and regretted that she had not held out
-till the morning.  But she had gone too far, and so she went in, and the
-iron grating was closed again, with a sound that struck terror into her
-pretty heart.  Now it so happened that Sir Tristram (that was the name of
-her lover) was staying with her father, Idris Gawr; and they were both of
-them puzzled what to think when Merch Idris didn’t reach home at the time
-they expected her.  So the knight mounted his charger and gallopped off
-one way, and Idris took up his club and walked off the other, to search
-for her.  All this time, the villain of an uncle was trying to wheedle
-the fair maid, his niece, to marry him; and, when he found her deaf to
-his monstrous wishes, he flew into a mighty passion, and dragged her to
-the top of the precipice, by the hair of her head, and swore, in a most
-unchristian manner, that he would pitch her over, if she didn’t consent.
-
-But just as he was about to put his threat into execution, he heard a
-horse at full gallop behind him; so he turned round just time enough to
-avoid the slashing sword of Sir Tristram, who made a determined cut at
-his head, that would have taken it clean off, if he hadn’t have ducked.
-Well, he was fain to let go the lady to save himself from the fury of the
-knight, although he didn’t think much of him.  But he pulled up a tree,
-and he made a mighty blow at him, which the knight, by the blessing of
-providence, escaped; but the horse wasn’t so fortunate, for it fell upon
-the poor creature’s head, and smashed it to atoms.  Well, the knight
-began to think the giant “too much of a horse” for him; and so he blew
-three notes upon his bugle, which was the appointed signal between him
-and Idris, and no sooner had he done so, than it was answered.
-
-“And now,” said Sir Tristram, “my fine fellow, you’ll have your match in
-a minute; and sure enough, as he spoke, Dyn Ddu o’r’ Craig saw his
-brother running at the rate of half a mile a stride.  Well, he was
-greatly perplexed what to do; but he thought he had better get into the
-castle.  So, he took Merch Idris under his left arm, and kept the knight
-off with the roots of the tree.  However, he couldn’t reach the gates in
-time.
-
-“And now,” says Idris to his brother, “you ruffian,” says he, “what are
-you going to do with my daughter?  Put her down, or I’ll smash you, as I
-do this tower!” and with that he hit a turret of the castle, and it flew
-about in all directions.  “Why then,” says the other, “I think I can do
-as great a feat as that.”  So he knocked the other turret on the head,
-and drove it clean down into the earth, so that not a brick of it was
-seen above ground!  Well, with that the two giants began to bang each
-other with their cudgels, till they were black and blue, while Sir
-Tristram and the lady ran off to Cader Idris, as fast as they could, to
-get out of harm’s way.
-
-Idris was the stronger giant of the two, and after three hours’ hard
-fighting, you wouldn’t have known them for human beings; but Idris having
-got Dyn with his back to the precipice, (where he threatened to throw the
-poor young lady over) hit him, with all his force, such a blow on the
-nose as made him stagger back and roll right over the edge of the craig.
-Well, he rolled and he rolled, till he got to the place where you were
-standing, and then he stopped; but he was quite dead.  Then the famous
-Idris, seeing his brother lie like a huge bundle of rags, without motion,
-by the side of the stream, tore off a large piece from the top of the
-mountain, and throwing it with great force, it lit full upon the giant as
-he lay, while his conqueror roared out, in a voice that was heard at
-Carnaervon,—“Good rest to you, brother Dyn! there’s a nightcap for you!”
-
-And ever since, that piece of rock has been called “the Giant’s
-Nightcap.”
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-We soon obtained a view of the lakes that spread themselves before
-us—viz.: Lyn Peris and Lyn Padarn, with the romantic castle of Dolbadarn
-upon its rocky promontory.  On issuing from a pass on our left, as my
-companion informed me, is a valuable copper mine, and a stream of water
-conveyed over the road, by the aid of a wooden conduit, into the lake,
-which stream, he said, was for the use of the mine.
-
-At length, I reached the inn, called Victoria, and satisfying my
-companion with a gratuity which was more profitable than fishing, I
-entered and ordered breakfast, and procured an admittance to the castle
-of Dolbadarn.  This ancient fortress is supposed to have been built by
-one Padarn Beisrydd ap Idwal, for the purpose of guarding the mountain
-pass which I had just quitted.  A single round tower is all that remains
-of the castle, although traces are left of a much more extensive
-building.  Here Owen Goch was imprisoned twenty years by his brother
-Llewellyn, the last Prince of Wales of the British line; and an ode is
-still extant, written by Howel-Voel, wherein his captivity is
-affectionately lamented.
-
-The view from the castle is truly sublime, comprising the two lakes, and
-the tremendous range of mountains, that seem to admit no outlet from the
-vale.  But the most beautiful prospect is from the lake in front of the
-promontory on which the castle stands, and is reflected in the smooth
-waters beneath, while the majestic Snowdon towers in the distance.
-
-In the twelfth century, it is said there lived a celebrated beauty, whose
-father was the lord of this castle, and of whom something like the
-following legend is related:
-
-
-
-LEGEND OF DOLBADARN.
-
-
-Margaret of Dolbadarn was one of the fairest damsels of whom Cambria ever
-boasted at court or tourney;—fair without vanity, highborn without
-ostentation, she exhibited the simplicity of nobility.
-
-Like others of her rank, she had many knights who owned her power, and
-panted to put lance in rest for the peerless Margaret; but in the number
-there was but one whom her eye followed through the glittering throng,
-and whose approach made her heart beat, and the mounting blood turn the
-delicate pink upon her cheek to crimson; and William of Montgomery was
-the happy knight.
-
-But her father had other views, and Hector of March-lyn-Mawr was proposed
-by him to be her husband—a youth of noble presence, but ignoble mind.
-His lands extended far and near, and skirted those of the Lord of
-Dolbadarn, who was, from that circumstance, doubly anxious to have the
-union consummated.
-
-He was, however, a tender guardian; he loved his daughter, and was by her
-loved tenderly in return.  Both knights had free access to Margaret, and
-both were anxious to deserve her favour.  William was young, valiant,
-handsome, and honest; Hector was bold, gloomy, uncourtly and subtle.  The
-Baron saw the decided preference his daughter gave to William of
-Montgomery, and grieved in his heart that it was not bestowed upon his
-more wealthy rival.  He therefore resolved to put a proposal to his
-daughter, which was, that at the ensuing tournament to be given at his
-castle, the knights should prove their skill upon each other, and that he
-who was proclaimed the most accomplished master of his weapons, should
-receive her hand as the reward.  For, though he was desirous of an
-alliance with the wealthy and powerful house of March Lyn Mawr, he was by
-no means insensible to the merits of Montgomery, whose name stood high in
-the lists of chivalry, and whose engaging manners won friends for him
-wherever he appeared.  With a heavy heart did Margaret submit to the
-proposal of her father, although a feeling of confidence within her bosom
-told her the object of her attachment would prove the victor.  Far
-different emotions agitated the hearts of the rivals, when they were
-informed of the Baron’s determination.  William of Montgomery flung
-himself upon his knees before the old man, exclaiming with enthusiasm,
-
-“By bath, and bed, and white chemise, {266} I will for ever be a true
-knight to thee for this especial favour, my good Lord of Dolbadarn!  My
-lance and blade are yours at command, and,” turning to his rival,
-“Hector, if I bear thee not over thy charger’s croup, why say my heart
-and hand shook with fear in the encounter.—But, if thou gainest the
-field, I’ll give thee a grey palfrey for thy bride, to bear her to the
-church yonder, by thy side.”
-
-“Agreed,” said Hector; “and noble Lord of Dolbadarn, if heaven desert me
-not in the hour of trial, I doubt not my success in winning thy daughter
-for my bride.  Yet, should I fail, I promise thee, William of Montgomery,
-to give thee a steed, fleeter than any in thy stables, to bear the Lady
-Margaret as thy bride to church, nor will I bear thee any ill will
-shouldst thou prove conqueror, but drink a health to thee and thine, with
-a kind heart and true.”
-
-At this time, there dwelt an old woman in the pass of Llanberis who was
-dreaded by all the country people, for she was accounted a witch; and on
-the night of that same day the storm raged furiously, and the tall trees
-were cracking in the forest, when a horseman was seen galloping up the
-pass.  He stopped at the witch’s hut, and knocking loudly, he cried, “Ho!
-mother witch! open the door! for thy devil’s counsel is needed.”
-
-The door was then opened, and the knight fastened his coal-black steed,
-dripping with rain and sweat, to a withered ash, and strode into the
-cabin.  The fire reflected in his suit of steel made him appear a knight
-of flame; and, as he stamped his armed heels upon the floor, his armour
-rang with a muffled sound, like the death bell which tolls for the great,
-who die in the odour of sanctity: and the old hag laughed; her spirit was
-glad—for she knew that a deed of damning crime was shortly to be
-committed!
-
-He sat him down upon the three-legged stool, and said, “Dame, I am ill at
-ease; for I love a maid whose heart I cannot win.  Attend to me;—the
-gallant and high-minded Montgomery I must encounter for her in the lists;
-and, should he conquer, he will bear away the prize I am burning to
-possess; but, if the chance be mine, her own consent waits on her
-father’s choice, whose wishes are for me.  Doubts on the issue urge me to
-seek thy aid.  May my saint desert me if I would not rather shake hands
-with the foul fiend himself, than give a palfrey for my Margaret to ride
-to church upon, with any but myself.”
-
-The witch laughed aloud, till he jumped from the stool, to see her old
-sides shake.  “Hector of March Lyn Mawr,” quoth she, “fear not that
-Margaret of Dolbadarn will ever become the bride of Montgomery; for
-shouldst thou be overcome in the lists, (and my power will not assist
-thee in the joust) call aloud ‘Hell kite! hell kite!’ and presently shall
-a gallant palfrey come and raise thee from the ground, which being done,
-present it to thy foe, and thou shalt see the issue.”  He thanked her,
-dropped his purse upon the floor, mounted his steed, and vanished down
-the pass.
-
-There was a great assemblage of people at the castle of Dolbadarn, to
-witness the jousting; and knights from all quarters arrived, to break a
-lance with merry England’s best, for glory and lady love.
-
-The tilting ground was enclosed by galleries erected for the ladies and
-nobles who wished to be spectators of the games.  Upon the plain, at the
-end of the vale, fifty shields were hung up by the knights who wished to
-signalize themselves.  Three score of coursers, with a squire of honour,
-first entered the lists; then followed as many knights in jousting
-harness, led in silver chains, by the same number of ladies, richly clad,
-to the sound of clarions, and trumpets, and minstrelsy.  When the ladies
-ascended the galleries, the squires dismounted, and the knights vaulted
-gaily into their saddles.  The scaffoldings were hung with tapestry, and
-embroideries of gold and silver; and the scene was animated and costly in
-the extreme.  Joy lighted up the eyes of all, save those of Margaret and
-her two lovers.  She sat a lily among roses, pale and dejected.
-Sometimes, indeed, she lifted her dark eyes, and her snowy neck took for
-a moment the carnation’s hue when she beheld the form of Montgomery,
-which yet faded as quickly as it came, and the Parian marble was left
-pure as before.
-
-Sir William walked, with a bold and lofty mien, along the line of
-shields, glancing at them with indifference, until he stopped before that
-which bore the arms of Hector, and then a smile of scorn played upon his
-lips, and he passed on.  Hector marked that smile, and his cheeks flushed
-with anger.  Great skill was displayed by youthful knights decked in
-ladies’ favours.  But, when the time arrived for the trial between Sir
-William of Montgomery and Hector of March Lyn Mawr, a hum of unusual
-interest arose among the gallant and beauteous auditory.  From the
-opposed lists they passed each other, to determine the length of the
-course, with visors up.  Sir William smiled gaily, but Hector wore a sad
-and mournful look, as though he feared or doubted the event of the trial.
-
-This ceremony of preparation being over, each took his post assigned,
-awaiting the signal for the charge.  The Lady Margaret was pale as death,
-but none around her noticed it, they being all intent upon the two
-knights, who wore no outward favours, though one possessed an amulet
-which he had placed near his heart, beneath his vest.  It was a white
-rose, which the fair Margaret had taken from her bosom, and given him an
-hour before in secret.
-
-The nominal prize for the victor was a jewelled sword, but the prize on
-which their hearts were set was a gem transcendant—the all-surpassing
-Margaret!
-
-And now the heralds sounded the charge, and the combatants met in mid
-career.  The lance of Hector was shivered upon the breast of Montgomery;
-but Sir William’s struck full upon the visor of Hector, which made him
-bend his plume backwards.  In the second course, Hector struck the
-coronal of Sir William’s helmet a skilful stroke.  Margaret fainted, and
-the ladies about her were busy in applying restoratives; but none
-attempted to remove her, being too much interested in the event of the
-joust.  Montgomery cast a look of fire up to the spot, and then re-closed
-his visor for the third course.  His opponent was resolved to make it a
-decisive one.  Striking their spurs into their chargers’ sides, like
-arrows shot from opposing bows, they flew along.  Then was a clash, a
-glittering flash! and the prize was won—for Hector of March Lyn Mawr lay,
-stunned and motionless, upon the ground, borne from his saddle by the
-lance of the victorious Sir William of Montgomery!
-
-Margaret, being restored to her senses, wept tears of joy, and spoke most
-sweet words, when her lover riding beneath the platform, demanded from
-her hand the honourable prize.
-
-But a wonder now appeared, which turned all eyes to the spot where Hector
-lay o’erthrown; for a milk-white palfrey, of the most exquisite form, had
-galloped into the lists, and drawn him from beneath his charger, which
-had fallen with him in the violent concussion.  His helmet being loosed,
-he soon partially recovered, and seeing the beautiful animal frisking and
-curvetting, as though overjoyed at his escape, he led it by the mane to
-his rival, saying,
-
-“William of Montgomery, I give to thee this palfrey.  Present it to thy
-bride, to whom I now resign all claim, and only request that she will,
-for my sake, let my favourite bear her to the church, where your union is
-to be celebrated.”
-
-It was a lovely thing to look upon, and the maiden promised to use no
-other on that happy day.
-
-The church of Llanberis was, at this time, about a mile from the castle
-of Dolbadarn, and the road, upon the bridal morning, resembled a mosaic
-pavement, when viewed from the mountain, it was so thickly studded with
-the fantastic dresses of the company, spectators, and gay flags and
-streamers waving in the air.  The minstrels struck up their boldest notes
-of war, or delighted the ears and hearts of the female holiday makers
-with the soft songs of love.  All was mirth, feasting, and jollity, while
-the air rung with the combined names of Margaret of Dolbadarn and William
-of Montgomery.
-
-At length, the bridal procession issued forth from the castle gateway;
-the heralds led, the minstrels followed.  Then came comely maidens with
-baskets of flowers, which they strewed around them, as they passed along.
-A body of armed knights followed and after them their esquires.  Then
-appeared a troop of dancing girls, adorned with flowers, and clad in
-purest white; and a second band of minstrels struck their harps before
-the bridegroom and the happy bride, who rode gaily, side by side.  She
-was dressed in rich attire; jewels glittered upon her robes and in her
-hair; and she rode upon the beautiful steed presented by March Lyn Mawr.
-The palfrey seemed proud of its lovely burthen, and gentle as the
-unwearied lamb.  The bridegroom was clad in a light tunic and hose, and
-peaked boots; a many-coloured plume fluttered in his bonnet, and many
-sweet words did he whisper in Margaret’s ear.  As the assembled multitude
-shouted their gratulations, he bent even to his saddle bow, to thank them
-for their courtesy.  Young Hector rode upon her left, and he laughed,
-too, and he bowed low; but in his laugh there was a fiendish sound, and
-in his bow a scorn.  Then followed the Lord of Dolbadarn, his long white
-locks waving in the summer breeze, surrounded by his relatives and
-friends.  A troop of squires and pages followed, while all the retainers
-of his noble house brought up the rear.
-
-The bride and bridegroom passed along, and thousands cheered them on
-their way, with shouts and praises.  The sun shone brightly above their
-heads, and joy was in their hearts.  On they went, until a turning in the
-road brought them at once in sight of the church; but here the palfrey
-grew restive, and Sir William seized the bridle, thinking to control him.
-This answered but for a short distance; for they had no sooner reached
-the gate, over which was carved a cross, than, even while the groom held
-the stirrup for her to alight, away, away, away flew the palfrey, like a
-falcon, down the wind.  The Lady Margaret was a good horsewoman, but she
-could not control the enchanted steed.  She, however, kept her seat well,
-and hoped the unruly animal would soon relax his speed.
-
-A hundred horsemen galloped after her, the bridegroom taking the lead,
-who, being mounted on the swiftest horse, soon left the rest behind,
-although unable yet to overtake the bride.  The palfrey first dashed
-forward in the direction of Carnaervon, but suddenly turned off to the
-right, and galloped up the mountain.  Hundreds of the peasantry were
-trampled under foot by the horses of the pursuers; some bruised, some
-crippled, and some killed, while the old Lord of Dolbadarn wrung his
-withered hands, and tore his grey locks, in frantic agony.  He accused
-Hector as the author of all this misery, and vented his curses upon him,
-which the infuriated mob hearing, they seized upon the astonished knight,
-and almost in an instant tossed him upon their spikes into the air.  He
-fell to the ground again, but not to rise; his plume, besmeared with
-blood, was scattered in every direction; his body, pierced with twenty
-wounds, spouted forth blood in fountains; blows fell upon his harness
-thick as hail; while a ferocious smith, with one stroke of an axe,
-severed the head from the body, and placing it upon a pike, bore the
-dripping trophy of vengeance above the applauding and infuriated wretches
-who had suffered in the tumult.
-
-Those who could govern their horses flew over the broken country in
-pursuit, while fleeter than a startled hind, the palfrey dashed along—at
-times abating his swift flight, to give the laggards hope, who furiously
-spurred their chargers forward
-
-    After the knight,
-    And lady bright.
-
-But away, away flew the enchanted steed over moss and moor, o’er hill and
-dale, through ford and forest; while of those who followed up the chase
-some were smothered, horse and rider, in the deep morass; some broke
-their necks in attempting to leap stone walls; some dangled from the
-boughs in woody dell, or perished in the river, dashed by the torrent
-against broken rocks; and they cursed, and died as they cursed.
-
-But Sir William of Montgomery pricked on his horse all foaming, and, as
-the strength of the noble animal began to fail, he cried aloud upon his
-patron saint to aid him.  It was a charm of power, for it was a holy one;
-and the creature shook the foam from his mouth, and with recovered
-strength, dashed on in the pursuit.  That charm, too, struck upon the
-heart of the palfrey, which began to fail him, and he tried in vain to
-keep the speed he had hitherto maintained.  But the impetuous knight,
-seeing that he gained upon his lady love, furiously urged on his charger,
-and with desperate rashness, burying his rowels in his side,
-exclaimed—“Hell kite, speed on!”—the very words the witch had given as a
-charm to Hector, and the name of the palfrey.
-
-No sooner was it pronounced, than his speed returned, and away, away the
-enchanted steed rushed on, as swiftly as before!  The lady was, by this
-time, nearly senseless; her eyes were dimmed from the effect of the air,
-as she cut through it; and her heart trembled within her, like a
-fluttering dove.  She cast an imploring look behind upon her lover, and
-raised one snowy arm beseechingly.  He saw the action, and fancied he
-heard her voice, faintly calling upon him for aid.  But it was to Him who
-governs all, she prayed; and again the wild horse felt the sacred power.
-But he had nearly reached the goal.  With voice and spur the gallant
-knight pressed on up the rising ground, the summit of which, unknown to
-Margaret, or the knight, looked over the broad ocean;—it was the terrific
-Penman Maur.
-
-Nearer and nearer did the knight approach; his charger’s foam was on the
-palfrey’s flanks.  Another bound, and he was at the side of
-Margaret—another, and there was one loud wild scream that startled the
-eagles from their nests.  Montgomery had clasped his lady round her
-waist, and borne her to his saddle bow.  It was the movement of an
-instant—but, in that instant, steeds, knight, and lady plunged from the
-precipice’s edge!  The first fall of fifty feet crushed the palfrey and
-war-horse; and the foul spirit, quitting the enchanted steed, like a dark
-cormorant hovered over the group.
-
-The knight still clasped the maiden in his arms, whose shrieks were
-answered by the eagles’ screams; and the lovers were dashed from rock to
-rock, battered and bloody.  The maiden fainted; but Sir William held her
-with the tenacious grasp of despair, with one arm to his breast, and with
-his right hand seized a dwarfish thorn—the only one that grew out of the
-rifted rock!  But still there was no resting place for feet to stand
-upon, while the broken fragments of the cliff, disturbed by the weight of
-the fall, thundered downwards from above, and around them in every
-direction.  One large mass struck the unhappy knight; the fragile thorn
-gave way, and the next moment beheld the loving pair, mutilated
-carcasses, floating upon the reckless waves!  The eagles gorged upon
-their flesh, and not a vestige of the lost ones was left.  A white scarf
-which Margaret wore, and which streamed, like the banner of death, from
-the blasted thorn, alone remained to tell the fate of Sir William of
-Montgomery, and his blooming bride!
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER X.
-
-
-The church of Llanberis—Monumental inscriptions—Story of little John
-Closs—The Pellings—Capel Curig—Moel Siabod—Castle of Dolwyddélan—Falls of
-Benclog—Llyn Ogwen—Llyn Idwal—Story of Idwal—Route to Llanrwst—Falls of
-Rhaiadr y Wennol—Bettws y Coed—The church—Monuments—Pont y Pair—Ogo ap
-Shenkin, a Legend—Glee, “Shenkin was a noble fellow!”
-
-    “Of a noble race was Shenkin!
-             Thrum, thrum, thrum,
-    Of the line of Owen Tudor,
-             Thrum, thrum, thrum,
-    But her renown was fled and gone,
-             Thrum, thrum, thrum,
-    But her renown was fled and gone,
-    Since cruel love pursued her!”
-
-                                                              JOHN DRYDEN.
-
-RETURNING to the Victoria, I partook of the refreshments provided, and
-then retracing my steps, I visited the little rustic church of Llanberis,
-which, for its simplicity, is well worthy of attention.  Upon entering
-the doorway, there is a small stone font placed upon a pedestal which is
-approached by three stone steps: it resembles a small washing tub, and
-its cover is much like a copper-lid.  Advancing into the interior, the
-music loft is upon the left, under which is a dilapidated screen,
-opposite to the font.  A doorway in the centre of the screen leads into
-the body of the church, where ancient oaken benches are ranged upon
-either side, and the pulpit and communion table are immediately in front.
-The old arched roof is held together by iron pins, which project on each
-side of the timbers, and the whole interior is whitewashed.  The only pew
-in the church adjoins the communion table, both of which have suffered
-materially by the worm and time.  The few monuments in this simple
-structure are upon small slate slabs, about the size of a school-boy’s,
-and are hung up on the wooden beams.  There are two of wood, with letters
-cut deeply into the small square, thus:
-
-                                     Ina
-                             Tan! hun!  Ofe! mae
-                               Gorwedd!  Corph
-                               ROE! ei oed! 60
-                             Y Dudd!  Y Cladd wud
-                              E brill! 10! 1719.
-
-The other, immediately facing the pulpit, is a black piece of board,
-ornamented with an undertaker’s tablet of gilt copper, in the centre of
-which, upon black japan, is—
-
-                                Thos. Williams
-                                 Died Oct. 25
-                                    1836.
-                                   Aged 74.
-
-On leaving the church, there is a monumental slate slab on the left of
-the path, bearing the following inscription and verses:
-
-                                  Underneath
-                              Lieth the remains
-                             Of John, the son of
-                            Robert Closs, who was
-                             Interred Decr. 1st.
-                             1805, aged 7 years.
-
-    Ar ben mynydd dydd-y-daith oî hoywder
-             A che dodd y maith
-       Gadewais (gwelais goeg waith)
-       Drueni’r Byd ar unwaith.
-    O erfel fu uchel a chos, i augau
-    Llyn ingol i’mddangos
-    Mantell niwl mewn lywyll nos
-    A dychrymad dechreunos.
-
-Upon returning to my inn at Gwrydd, I discovered that the landlady was
-sister to little John Closs; and from her I learnt the story of his
-melancholy fate.  It is as follows:
-
-John was a pretty boy, about seven years of age, with fair hair and blue
-eyes, of a sweet-temper, adored by his parents, and loving them most
-affectionately in return.  Indeed, little John Closs was the talk of the
-parish, and held up as a pattern of filial love and reverence to all the
-children in the village.  His uncle had a small farm at Nant Bettwys; and
-John’s father having sent him to reside there, for a few months, the fond
-mother would often cross the mountain to see her son and her sister,
-returning home in the evening of the same day.  Little John got tired of
-living away from home, and one night, after his mother had quitted the
-cottage to return to Llanberis, he wept so bitterly, and prayed so
-earnestly to be permitted to follow her home, that the good people at
-Bettwys permitted him to try and overtake her, which they considered he
-might easily do, as she had not left the house ten minutes before he
-started.
-
-The mother reached Llanberis in safety; but the poor boy lost his way in
-a snow storm on Moel Einion, and was not heard of for more than a week
-afterwards; when, one day, a man crossing the mountain, found the child
-stretched on the ground in a slumbering position, his face towards the
-earth, buried in his hands, and quite dead.
-
-On the evening when he lost his way, a shepherd, by the name of John
-Davis, said he had heard cries, like those of a child, upon the mountain,
-which in his ignorance he believed to be the voice of a fairy; and,
-terrified at the idea of encountering some supernatural being, he took to
-his heels in a contrary direction, with all the speed he could make,
-while the poor sufferer, cold and dying, vainly exerted himself in
-straining his innocent voice for succour.
-
-The inhabitants of this neighbourhood have, from time immemorial, held a
-strong belief in fairies; and there are many families now living that are
-said to have descended from this race, from their having intermarried, in
-the olden time, with their ancestors.  They are called Pellings, from a
-fairy who was named Penelope, and who, while dancing, one moonlight
-night, upon the shores of a lake called Cwellyn, was surprised and seized
-by a young farmer, who, in spite of her screams, bore her to his own
-house, called Yestrad, near Bettws, where he treated her with so much
-kindness, that she became contented to live with him; and they were
-married, upon the condition that he should never strike her with iron;
-for if he did, she would vanish, and he would never see her again.  (I
-here thought of the tale told me by the old man in the valley of
-Drwstynrnt and was struck with the similarity they bore to each other.)
-Unfortunately, as the farmer and his wife went out into the field one
-day, to catch his horse, he accidentally hit her with the buckle of his
-bridle, and she was never seen after.  Her descendants are called
-Pellings, as are all who imagine they derive their origin from this
-fabulous lady.  Mr. William Williams, in his observations upon the
-Snowdon mountains, says—“The best blood in my own veins is this fairy’s.”
-
-This belief, existing so strongly in the breasts of many people in this
-district, will account for the pusillanimity of the shepherd who fled
-from the cries of poor little John Closs.
-
-The following morning, I proceeded towards Capel Curig, but this road is
-very uninteresting.  The tourist is, however, amply gratified, if it
-happen to be tolerably clear weather, on his arrival at an ancient stone
-bridge which crosses a stream that tumbles over some black rocks on the
-right, and winds its way in graceful variety, forming a pleasing spot to
-rest upon.  Looking back towards Llanberis, the mountain scenery is very
-fine; and I here took my farewell look of Snowdon and Snowdonia.
-
-
-
-CAPEL CURIG
-
-
-Is in the parish of Llandegai.  It derives its name from a man who was
-canonized, and founded a chapel in this mountainous region.  He was the
-son of Llendden Llenddog, of Edinburgh.  There are here two lakes, and
-some tolerable fishing may be had, if you take a boat; but from the banks
-it is quite useless to attempt it.  From this spot, excursions may be
-made to Llanberis and
-
-
-
-MOEL SIABOD,
-
-
-From the summit of which a magnificent view is obtained of the mountains
-of Snowdonia, of nine different lakes, and the sea beyond Carnaervon.
-The distance from the inn to the apex of this mountain does not exceed
-three miles and a half.
-
-
-
-DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE,
-
-
-Situated about five miles from Capel Curig, and on the eastward side of
-Moel Siabod, deserves notice.  It is built upon a lofty rock, which on
-one side is inaccessible.  There are two square towers, and a court in
-the middle.  It is surrounded by mountains, and must in ancient days have
-been a fortress of considerable importance.  It is said, Llewellyn the
-great was born in the castle; and this fact is sufficient to interest the
-stranger who is capable of appreciating and feeling reverence for a hero,
-who so long struggled with unwearied assiduity and unconquerable bravery,
-for his native land, and who fought and died in the sacred cause of
-liberty.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Within four miles of Capel Curig is an oval lake, of about three miles in
-circumference, called _Llyn Ogwen_, which must by no means be overlooked.
-The scenery around is delightful, and the waters are well stored with
-excellent trout of fine flavour, and surpassing all others in that
-respect, in the Carnaervonshire lakes.
-
-At the western end of this lake, are the falls of _Benglog_, (being three
-in number and upwards of one hundred feet in height) from whence the
-waters take their course through Beavers’ Hollow, a wild and romantic
-glen, rocky and barren.
-
-Powel, in his History of North Wales, says, “In Tevi, above all the
-rivers in Wales, were, in Giraldus’s time, a great number of castels,
-which may be Englished beavers, and are called in Welsh avane, which name
-onlie remaineth in Wales at this daie, but what it is, very few can tell.
-It is a beast not much unlike an otter, but that it is bigger, all hearie
-saving the taile, which is like a fishe taile as broad as a man’s hand.
-This beast useth as well the water as the land; and hath a voice, sharp
-teeth, and biteth cruellie till he perceives the bones cracke * * * * He
-that will learn what strong nests they make, which Giraldus calleth
-castells, which they build upon the face of the water with great bowes,
-which they cut with their teeth, and how some lie upon their backs
-holding the wood with their fore feet, which the other draweth with a
-crosse stick, the which he holdeth in his mouth, to the water’s side, and
-other particularities of their natures, let him read Giraldus in his
-Topographie of Wales.”
-
-In this stream are found the fresh water muscle, which the country people
-call _cregyn deluw_, i.e. _shells of the deluge_, supposed to have been
-brought into it by Noah’s flood.
-
-On the left of the lake are the _Crags of Trifaen_; huge shattered
-ridges, which overhang the pool and keep it in continual shadow, while
-the sides of Braich-ddu slope gradually to the lake’s margin.  The
-Francôn mountains, in the distance, are astonishingly grand, and
-altogether this lake scene may be considered the finest in
-Caernarvonshire.
-
-A gentleman in the winter of 1831, was driving along the road which
-skirts the borders of the lake, when upwards of a thousand tons of rock
-fell from the heights of Benclog, a little below the falls into Nant
-Francôn, a short time after he had passed them, and he beheld one portion
-roll into the valley and river, while the other rested upon the road he
-had just travelled, rendering it impossible for any carriage to proceed
-by that route, until the obstruction was removed.
-
-A mile distant from Llyn Ogwen is another lake, well worthy of being
-visited, which lies in a deep hollow of the Glyder mountains called
-
-
-
-LLYN IDWAL,
-
-
-where the gloomy horror of the scenery is most appalling; particularly
-the terrific chasm of _Twll Ddu_, or the Black Cleft.  This spot derived
-its name from the following crime, which was perpetrated here.
-
-Prince Owain Gwynedd, who reigned in the twelfth century, had a favourite
-called _Nefydd Hardd_, to whose care he intrusted his son _Idwal_, and
-who betraying his trust, commanded his son _Dunawt_ to destroy the young
-prince, a crime which he too faithfully obeyed, perpetrating the cruel
-deed at this place.  But, being discovered, Nefydd, and his posterity,
-were degraded from the rank of nobles to bondsmen, and Rhun, the son of
-Dunawt, who again became possessed of the property of his ancestors,
-granted the ground upon which the church of Llanrwst now stands, as an
-expiatory gift for the foul crime imputed to his father.  The grave of
-Idwal is still pointed out by the inhabitants, close to the lake.
-
-The scenery around is well calculated to inspire fear in the timid, as
-being adapted to the committal of atrocity of any kind.  Bleak, black,
-desolate and stern, it thrills the beholder with an indescribable
-sensation of terror.
-
-The lake is well stored with fish, of a darker colour than those in the
-Ogwen, and of a less delicate flavour.  These lakes are in the parish of
-Llan Tegai, so called from its patron saint _Tegai_, the son of _Ithol
-Hael_, a nobleman of Amorica, brother to Credifael and Flewin, who built
-Penmynydd and Llanflewin, in Anglesea, about the year 636.  _See Roland’s
-Mona Antiqua Rest_. _p._ 189.
-
-After a delightful day’s ramble amongst this wild and sublime scenery, I
-returned to the inn at Capel Curig, and on the following morning took the
-road to Llanrwst, which in a short time becomes particularly interesting.
-The dark and comfortless sterility is exchanged for a delightful valley,
-with luxuriant woods, which stretch to the summit of the hills upon
-either side; and near the two mile stone is one of the most picturesque
-cottages imaginable, placed on the side of a hill above the bridge, which
-crosses the river Llugwy, and gives additional beauty to the romantic
-dell.  Half a mile beyond is an observatory, which stands upon the
-highest point of a towering cliff, a portion of whose summit is clothed
-with purple heath, and the remainder presents a face of grey barren rock,
-while beneath a forest of rich foliage creeps from its base far up the
-craggy sides.
-
-Within a mile of this place are the celebrated waterfalls, called
-
-
-
-RHAIADR Y WENNOL,
-
-
-i.e. the Spout of the Swallow—a cataract of about sixty feet in width.
-The river, at the top of the first fall, flows in an unbroken sheet, but
-soon becomes dispersed in various streams that dash and struggle through
-the impending masses of rock, charming the ear with their complicated
-roar.  At the second fall, it rushes in a collected volume into the
-boiling vortex, from whence, at the third, it is dispersed in spray.  A
-small wicket gate by the road side, leads to a footpath through the
-grounds, to the falls, where the visitor cannot fail to find an adequate
-reward for his digression.  The old oak trees that overhang the ravine
-are beautifully grouped.  On one side, a large rock rises perpendicularly
-nearly 500 feet, and the earth is clothed with velvet moss and decked
-with wild flowers.  Fancy would picture just such a retreat, for a
-wandering sylph! while the rays of light, darting through the greenwoods,
-remind us of the flittings of Sir John Wynne’s ghost, which was said to
-haunt this glen for many years, but is now laid at rest in the depths of
-the lower fall.  Journeying onward, I reached the village of
-
-
-
-BETTWS Y COED,
-
-
-which being translated is the Station in the Wood; and a most delightful
-station it is.  The Shrewsbury and Holyhead road run through it, and the
-junction of the Llugwy and the Conway rivers is at no great distance.
-The church is a venerable structure, and contains an old monument,
-erected to the memory of Griffith, the son of David Gôch, who was a
-natural son of David, the brother of Llywellyn, the last Prince of Wales.
-He died in the fourteenth century, and a stone statue of him is in a
-recess on the north side of the church, with this inscription: “Hic jacet
-Gruffydd ap Davyd Gôch, agnus Dei misere mei.”
-
-At about a mile from Bettws is an iron bridge of one arch, which carries
-the Holyhead road over the river Conway.  Its span is 105 feet, and it is
-called the Waterloo Bridge, from its having been erected in the year that
-tremendous battle was fought.  But the principal object is,
-
-
-
-PONT-Y-PAIR,
-
-
-the Bridge of the Caldron.  It has four arches, and the natural rock
-supplies it with piers, that seem to defy the efforts of time or the fury
-of the waters.  Immediately above the bridge is the fall and salmon leap.
-The river rolls and plunges into a deep reservoir below.  The grandeur of
-the scene during the floods, I was informed, surpasses imagination, and,
-unfortunately for me, the heat of the sun had dried them up, when I
-visited this celebrated spot.
-
-For this bridge the inhabitants are indebted to one Howell, a mason, who
-resided at Penllyn in the year 1468; and, having occasion to attend the
-assizes at Conway, he was unexpectedly prevented from passing the Lleder
-by the fury of the flood.  That a similar disappointment might not occur
-to others, he erected a wooden bridge across that river, and trusted to
-the generosity of travellers to remunerate him.  The success of this
-attempt encouraged him to erect the bridge at Bettws y Coed, which is now
-called Pont y Pair, but he died before it was completed.
-
-Upon the right of this bridge is Carrey y Gwalch, or the Rock of the
-Falcon, well clothed with trees, through which the bald cliffs peep, like
-a body of sharp shooters from a brush wood, anxious to escape detection.
-In this rock is a recess called the cave of Shenkin, a celebrated outlaw,
-who found shelter here from the unremitting efforts of justice during the
-reign of Edward IV.
-
-The entrance to this spot is blocked up by a large piece of rock, and the
-following legend is seriously related by the old women of the
-neighbourhood.
-
-
-
-OGO AP SHENKIN.
-
-
-In the reign of our seventh Henry, when the civil wars which desolated
-the hearths of rich and poor, ceased to afflict the nation, and peace and
-plenty once more spread their smiling influence throughout the land,
-there lived near this village a man, called Jordan ap Jordan, a
-wood-cutter and goatherd, whose time was occupied between watching his
-goats upon the mountains, and felling trees in the forest.  He was a
-short square built man, with a squint eye and a blue nose.  He was
-thought to be half distracted between the desires of a miser, and the
-vices of a drunkard; for, whenever one passion predominated, he raved
-like a bedlamite at the other, and he who shunned him in the morning for
-his sordid qualities would fairly take to his heels at full speed, to
-avoid him in the evening when he was in his cups.
-
-Jordan was, therefore, generally shunned by his neighbours, and would
-often repair to the bridge of the Caldron, to meditate upon future
-wealth, or to roar out his bacchanalian stanzas to his unwearied
-companion the waterfall.  He was fond of a thundering accompaniment, and
-here he was gratified to his heart’s fondest wish.  The superstitious
-peasantry were often alarmed, as they passed the bridge after twilight,
-to their several homes, to hear his unearthly raving mingled with the
-sound of the cataracts, and to see his ungainly form perched upon the
-parapet of the bridge, which they often mistook for an evil spirit.  One
-morning, before daybreak, as he was gradually recovering from his
-evening’s excess, the grasping fiend of avarice seized upon his heart, as
-was often the case, when he reflected on his extravagance on the
-foregoing night; and, after venting many bitter curses upon all earthly
-spirits (alias drams) prayed most devoutly to all spirits, celestial, for
-a plentiful accession of worldly pelf, to add to his store, which he had
-concealed in the hollow of a certain tree; when “a still small voice,”
-which even the roar of the torrent permitted him to hear, whispered to
-him that Ogo ap Shenkin might contain “something worth seeking for.”
-
-This cave, as I have before mentioned, was the retreat of the celebrated
-Shenkin; and, although the bold outlaw had long ceased to commit his
-depredations, the place of his resort was held in dread by the
-superstitious peasantry, who firmly believed that his spirit was to be
-seen every night, prowling about the gap, to terrify and torment all poor
-souls who ventured to wander near this haunted ground.
-
-The woodman pricked up his ears at the sound of the voice, and, after
-turning the thing over and over again in his mind, and weighing the pros
-and cons in the scale of his bewildered judgment, he determined to
-venture on the experiment.  “For,” thought he, “though ghosts walk by
-night, I never heard of their venturing out by day;” and hastening home
-he replenished his bottle, which he thought it prudent to take with him
-in case of frights and sights, which an application to it might enable
-him to endure with fortitude.
-
-It was yet grey morning, and the mist still lay in the valley, as Jordan
-ap Jordan advanced his _blue light_ in the direction of Shenkin’s cave;
-one eye peering in the direction of the hollow, and the other traversing
-the craggy mountain tops and down the hills’ sides, like a vagrant scout
-watching the enemy’s motions or looking out for squalls.
-
-The heavy fog was now fast rising on the mountain’s side, obscuring the
-mouth of the cave so completely that Jordan was very often compelled to
-apply his mouth to the flask, in order to rectify the effects of the
-unwholesome dew, which he inhaled by gallons.
-
-Thicker and thicker came on the fog, and lighter and lighter became the
-flask; until what with one thing, and the other, he scarce knew whether
-his track lay to the right, or to the left; and, but for the consolation
-of the spirit, he would infallibly have been _routed by terror_; but as
-it was, he only acknowledged to being _overcome with liquor_, and his
-reluctance to confess so much was only conquered on finding himself
-stretched half way into the cave, without the power of resuming his
-standing position.  While he lay thus sprawling and unable to rise,
-gazing with “lack lustre eye” into the gloomy recess, he fancied he
-beheld some lights flickering at a distance, dancing up and down, and
-running to and fro!  His hair stood on end with fright, his eyes almost
-started from his head with curiosity, and the liquor evaporating, as his
-terror became stronger, he miraculously recovered the use of his legs,
-which he instantly endeavoured to make use of in escaping from the
-cavern.  But, to his utter consternation, he discovered that the entrance
-was closed up, and an appalling noise of a long drawn, ba-a-a-a-a! made
-him look once more in the direction of the lights.
-
-He now fancied he saw only two, but they grew larger and larger, till
-they resembled two moons.  And presently he heard a buzzing sound, as if
-a thousand bees were about his ears; and on a sudden the cave became
-lighted up with a thousand torches, for it seemed to have expanded to an
-incredible magnitude; and, in the centre, upon a huge oaken chest well
-bound with iron clasps, stood a goat of prodigious size, with a beard
-which seemed to be of ten times the magnitude commonly given by artists
-to Aaron the high priest.  Full, shaggy, and venerable did it appear.
-His horns, like mighty corkscrews, issued from his forehead, terminating
-in two portentous points; and his eyes,—for they were his eyes, which
-Jordan’s disconcerted vision had mistaken for moons—were fixed upon a
-clasped book, the leaves of which he was deliberately turning over with
-his right fore hoof, as if he cared no more for Jordan ap Jordan’s
-proximity, than if he had been one of his own species.
-
-The woodman being by this time perfectly sober, felt his desire of wealth
-grow stronger than fear; and he could not help thinking that the oaken
-chest contained the treasure he so much coveted.
-
-“You’re perfectly right,” said the goat, answering to the thought of
-Jordan, without taking his eyes off the book he was perusing; “and you
-shall see the treasure.”  Then touching a spring with his fore paw, the
-side of the chest flew open, and Jordan saw more gold than he ever
-thought the world contained, and every piece stamped with the king’s
-head.  Jordan, with his natural impulse, rushed forward to grasp some of
-the shining coin! but, the goat presented his horns to him, saying, “If
-you touch any of this coin before it is properly prepared, instant death
-will be your fate,” and then, with a loud ba-a-a-a-a, he summoned a
-number of grave elders about him, to whom he gave suitable directions,
-and these presently kindled some dry wood upon a slab of rock, and put an
-iron pot with a spout to it over the flames, while Jordan wondered to see
-them use their cloven feet so cleverly in adjusting matters as occasion
-required.  These preparations being completed, they took from the chest
-large bags full of gold, and emptied them into the iron pot, one after
-the other, until it was completely full; and then commenced dancing round
-it on their hinder legs, ba-a-a-a-ing most inharmoniously.  This ceremony
-continued some time, when lo! the coin being fusible, melted, and became
-a burning liquid.
-
-“Now,” said the monster goat to Jordan-ap-Jordan, “I will make thee a man
-of gold!  Thou dost thirst for gold and shalt have more than thou
-desirest.  Swallow thou this pot of boiling metal, and fear not.  The
-heat will have no effect upon thee—so drink—drink and be wealthy!”
-
-Jordan looked upon the molten gold as it sparkled and became agitated in
-the vessel, and, stooping to take a closer inspection, was surprised to
-find it destitute of heat, though still retaining its liquidity!  Having
-ascertained this fact, he made no hesitation in obeying the goat’s
-commands, and took huge draughts of the precious fluid, which, like warm
-jelly, flowed smoothly and agreeably into his capacious maw.  No sooner
-had he drained the measure, than the venerable goat leaped from the
-chest, and presenting his terrific horns, cried, “Now Jordan, fly for
-your life;” at the same time, making a charge upon his rear, which
-completely ejected him from the cavern at full speed.  No sooner had he
-passed the cavern’s mouth, than he tumbled with violence to the ground;
-and at the same moment a huge mass of rock fell from the summit of the
-hill, and effectually blocked up the entrance of Ogo ap Shenkin.
-
-It was mid-day when Jordan quitted the cave, and the sun shone in all its
-brilliant beauty.  Filled with wealth and wonder, he hastened towards his
-cottage, calculating all the way the prodigious extent of his riches.
-
-“I must take care of myself now,” said Jordan, “for, if by any chance, my
-secret should be discovered, I shall share the fate of the goose that
-laid the golden eggs.”
-
-This reflection made him uneasy; and as he was frequently hailed, in
-sport or ridicule, by the shepherd lads from the mountains, he quickened
-his speed to avoid observation.
-
-For ten years after this, Jordan was never seen except at night, and then
-it was only for a moment and upon the bridge.  He was like a phantom
-there—and gone in an instant.  No one saw him in his former occupation;
-his cottage was deserted, and he lived, no one knew where.
-
-The gradual decay of his wardrobe was noticed, as at various times he was
-recognised by those to whom he was formerly known; until, at length, he
-was entirely destitute of every article of clothing; and a village curate
-was, one bleak and wintry night, roused from his bed, by the moaning of
-some human creature, apparently at the threshold of his door.  He let him
-in, pale, emaciated, naked, and ghost like.  He placed him, shivering, on
-his bed; and the dying creature glared wildly about the apartment, as he
-exclaimed in terror,
-
-“Take care they don’t steal me.”
-
-“Who?” inquired the good curate.
-
-“The world—all the world, are looking for me,” replied the wretch; “but I
-shall escape them yet.  You are a good man; you would not rob the dead,
-would you?”
-
-“Heaven forbid,” he replied.
-
-“Ay, ay, you fear Heaven—you fear its curses here, and its vengeance
-hereafter.  I think I may trust you, as I have not above an hour to live.
-Look at me! don’t you see what they hunt me for?  I’m all gold!—a man of
-gold!—robbers seek for me, to buy them food!—Spendthrifts hunt after me,
-to pay their debts!—Women grasp at me, to purchase jewels!—And kings lay
-snares for me, to gorge and fatten!”
-
-He then related his wonderful adventure in Ogo ap Shenkin; and, as he
-concluded it, exclaimed,
-
-“Bury me safely.  You make take my little finger, that will pay all
-expenses, but don’t break up my body—to—to—to—” and the hypochondriac
-expired. {304}
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-There is no doubt that the vision of the goat and the chest of wealth,
-was a dream after one of Jordan’s drunken bouts, which produced so
-powerful an impression upon his mind, that it banished the few wits
-intoxication had left him.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XI.
-
-
-A Mistake—Road to Llanrwst—Gwydir Castle—Llanrwst Shaking Bridge—Inn—The
-Theatre—Town Hall—Free Schools—Alms Houses—Rhaiadr y Parc Mawr—Llynn
-Giwionydd—Taliesin—Trefriw—Slate Quarries—Conway—The Suspension
-Bridge—The Castle—Local Customs—A Phrenologist—Excursion to the Ormes’
-Head—The Smuggler—The Bump of _Order_.
-
-    “On a rock whose haughty brow
-    Frowned o’er old Conway’s foaming flood,
-    Rob’d in a sable garb of woe,
-    With haggard eye, the poet stood.”
-
-                                                                     GRAY.
-
-As I stood taking a farewell look of this beautiful village, with my
-knapsack on my back, and fishing rod in my hand, I was suddenly roused
-from my reverie, by a slap on the shoulder, and, on turning my head, I
-perceived an old woman, who held out to me some half dozen, much soiled,
-silver tea spoons, addressing me at the same time in Welsh: she might as
-well have spoken to me in the language of the ancient Chaldees.  However,
-I took the spoons in my hands, and, after turning them over and over for
-some time, and endeavouring to elicit her meaning without success, I
-shook my head as gravely as my Lord Burleigh is made to do, in Sheridan’s
-entertainment of the Critic, and returned them to their venerable owner.
-Disappointment made the wrinkles of her aged forehead deeper than usual,
-and I was turning to resume my journey, when a flash of intelligence
-crossed her smoke-dried visage, and, making a sign for me to stop, she
-ran into her cottage, and presently returned, her face glowing like a hot
-coal, with an old umbrella in her hand, which she displayed fantastically
-in every way she thought likely to attract my notice, making use of
-sundry pantomimic gestures, none of which could I understand; and I began
-to think myself in company with some unhappy creature escaped from
-Bedlam.  I again attempted to proceed with more earnestness than before,
-when, to my astonishment, a pair of grey, much worn, inexpressibles were
-held up to my eyes, while the gesticulations of the old woman became
-stronger and stronger, and I at length discovered, that I had been
-mistaken for a travelling pedlar by the old beldam, who wished to
-exchange the articles she produced for something with which she imagined
-my knapsack was furnished!
-
-Within half a mile from the town of Llanrwst is
-
-
-
-GWYDIR CASTLE,
-
-
-the property of Lord Willoughby d’Eresby, a family mansion of no very
-attractive appearance.  It is situated on the right of the road, which
-winds between it and a lofty wood-clad precipice, called Carreg-y-Gwalch,
-or the Rock of the Falcon.  It was built by John Wynne ab Meredydd, in
-1555, and has lately undergone some alteration.  The breakfast parlour
-contains a curious carving of the arms of the Gwydir family, supported by
-Julius Cæsar and Augustus; the former holding his commentaries in one
-hand, and his sword in the other; the latter, his sword only.  The
-dining-room has some specimens of carving, that are worthy of
-observation; but throughout the mansion there is very little of what
-belonged to it originally.  The chairs, panelling, and even tables, being
-coloured for the purpose of giving the apartments the appearance of
-antique splendour, which, until lately, they wanted.
-
-The drawing-room is spacious and lofty, and is lighted by a double row of
-windows, which gives it a heavy look: this unusual arrangement was caused
-by the removal of the dormitory, to give height to this room.  Over the
-fire place is a finely executed carving of Julius Cæsar in oak.  At the
-N.W. end of the room, a piece of tapestry represents a vintage, and at
-the S.E. another specimen of needlework commemorates the landing of
-Charles V at Grenada.
-
-The coronation chair of George II is shewn in this apartment, and the
-footstool used by Queen Caroline on her trial at Westminster Hall.  There
-is a centre table, very richly ornamented with carved work; and another,
-which in shape exactly resembles the slab and pedestal of a tombstone, so
-that the visitor, naturally enough walks up to it, expecting to see the
-customary, “Hic jacet” etc.
-
-The cradle of Sir Richard Wynne, bearing the date 1634, completes the
-list of curiosities contained in this room.
-
-The garden, which is extensive, contains some valuable plants and shrubs,
-and the terrace is a pleasant promenade, sloping from which are beds of
-exceedingly beautiful flowers, of various classes and descriptions.
-After satisfying the housekeeper with a trifling gratuity, I proceeded to
-Llanrwst, but halted upon the bridge to take a view of the Conway (over
-which beautiful river its arches expand), and the town to which it leads.
-I was here accosted by an old man, who asked me, “if I should like to
-feel the bridge shake?”  As I answered in the affirmative, he desired me
-to place my back against the side over the centre arch, and striking the
-opposite parapet rather heavily with his own, a tremulous motion was
-distinctly felt; on this account, it is called the Shaking Bridge.  It
-was built in 1636, from a plan of the celebrated Inigo Jones, and cost
-£1000, which was defrayed by the counties of Denbighshire and
-Caenarvonshire, which it unites.
-
-
-
-LLANRWST
-
-
-is built upon the Denbighshire side of the river.  The Three Eagles is
-the most commodious inn in the town; and, being rather fatigued, I threw
-my limbs upon a sofa, and resigned myself to the drowsy god, first taking
-especial care to order a substantial repast to be in readiness for me on
-my return from the land of Nod.  My last waking recollection was the
-words of Mr. Lover’s favourite song,
-
-    “There’s no use at all in my going to bed,
-    For it’s dhrames and not sleep, that comes into my head.”
-
-Dreams, however, did not picture my slumbers, and I awoke to the
-unrivalled delight of a weary and hungry traveller—an excellent hot
-dinner.  While the waiter cleared the table, and put on the desert, I
-took a glance from the windows at the market-place and town-hall; against
-the latter were pasted sundry bills, some of which bore, I thought, a
-strong resemblance to the dramatic announcements.
-
-“What bills are those?” said I to the waiter, as he placed my pint of
-port before me.
-
-“Play bills, sir.”
-
-“What, have you a theatre here?” said I, opening my eyes with
-astonishment.
-
-The man stared, appeared confused and stammered, and, supposing me
-shocked at the immoral announcement, proceeded to assure me, that
-although the players were tolerated, they had very little patronage,
-“Indeed, sir,” continued he, “such vagabonds do a great deal of harm to
-business; we feel it, sir.  Now to-night there is a bespeak, which will
-do us a serious injury, for we have no less than six visitors who are
-going!”
-
-“A bespeak, eh! and who bespoke the play?”
-
-“Oh, sir, ’tis Mr. —.”
-
-“Mr. —!” I exclaimed, with a sort of inquiring glance, which occasioned
-the waiter to look more ridiculous than ever.
-
-“Do you mean Mr. —, of Belmont?”
-
-“Yes, sir, that’s the gentleman.”
-
-No sooner had I received this information, than filling my glass, “His
-honored health!” I cried, adding the words of the bard,
-
-    “May never-fading laurels flourish round him,
-    And consecrate his name ev’n to Time’s end!”
-
-“Bring me a bill of the play,” said I.  The man withdrew with much
-apparent reluctance, but shortly returned with one, which, snatching from
-his hand, I began eagerly to peruse, until perceiving the increasing
-wonderment which stupified the eyes of the waiter, I followed up the
-foregoing quotation with another, which I addressed to him in seeming
-wrath.
-
-    “The Devil damn thee black, thou cream-faced loon!
-    Where got’st thou that goose look?”
-
-which had the desired effect, and relieved me from his presence.
-
-A month had passed away since I had visited a temple dedicated to Thalia
-or Melpomene, and, with all the enthusiasm such divinities inspire, I
-hastened to arrange my dress in the best manner possible, to pay them my
-devoirs.
-
-The play was announced to begin at half past seven o’clock.  The time had
-nearly arrived, and fully anticipating much gratification I reached the
-Town Hall.  A staircase, not of the cleanest, led to the theatre on the
-first floor, and passing some hanging of green-baize, which formed a
-narrow passage to the pit and gallery, I was ushered into the former,
-which being set apart for the _gentry_, consisted of about six forms,
-such as are used in schools, and ranged behind each other.  A barrier of
-the most unostentatious fabric stretched across the room from wall to
-wall, behind which were about the same number of forms, arranged in like
-manner, this back portion being denominated the gallery.  As I entered, I
-perceived a fine portly gentleman, seated in a large elbow chair at the
-extremity of the first form, whose countenance was lighted up by half a
-dozen candles, that flared magnificently within three feet of the front
-row, and divided the stage from the audience.  “There needed no ghost” to
-tell me that this was the gentleman who had honored the theatre by his
-patronage on that occasion, and to whom I was the bearer of a letter of
-introduction, then in my pocket-book.  The proscenium was of painted
-canvass, and a green curtain of the same material scantily screened the
-mysteries which were preparing on the stage.  Upon the right of the room,
-a temporary box contained the band.  Those who have heard the burst of
-melodious sounds thunder forth from the orchestra of the opera, which
-startles the uninitiated, in an overture of Mozart’s, or in the wild and
-stormy grandeur which characterizes the compositions of Weber, may have
-some idea of the overpowering effect produced by a violin, played by a
-boy about twelve years of age, who was leader of the band, consisting of
-one old man of sixty, who rasped fearfully on a violincello, and an
-enthusiastic trombone player, who successfully drowned the unskilful
-efforts of the other two with the tremendous roar of his elongating
-distracter.  The front of the house was illuminated by three tallow
-candles, one on each side, stuck in tin candlesticks and nailed against
-the wall, and one at the extremity of the room.  The first piece to be
-acted was the _Mid’ night Hour_; after which, I thought it high time to
-retire.
-
-The following morning I employed in paying my respects to the different
-gentlemen to whom I had letters, and in gaining what information I could
-respecting the objects most worthy of notice in the town, and surrounding
-neighbourhood.
-
-The church and chapel adjoining, were the first subjects to engage my
-attention.  In the former there is nothing interesting, excepting an
-oaken screen, exquisitely carved, which was taken from the Abbey of
-Maenan, the gallery for the singers being above it.  On the opposite side
-is the
-
-
-
-GWYDIR CHAPEL.
-
-
-This beautiful structure was erected in the year 1633, by Sir Richard
-Wynne, of Gwydir, from a design of Inigo Jones, and was for many years
-the burial place of the illustrious family of Gwydir.  At the sides of
-the chapel, fixed in panels of wood, are several engravings on brass,
-illustrative of the personages who are interred below; and in the east
-corner is a tablet of white marble, containing the following remarkable
-pedigree, comprising a period of 500 years.
-
-    “This chapel was erected A.D. 1633, by Sir Richard Wynne of Gwydir,
-    in the county of Carnaervon, Knight and Baronet, Treasurer to the
-    High and Mighty Princess Henrietta Maria, Queen of England, Daughter
-    of Henry the Fourth, King of France, and Wife to our Sovereign Lord
-    King Charles; where lyeth buried his father Sir John Wynne, of
-    Gwydir, Knight and Baronet, son and heir to Morris Wynne, son and
-    heir to John Wynne, son and heir to Meredith Wynne, which three lie
-    buried in the Church of Dolwyddelen, with tombs over them.  This
-    Meredith was son and heir to Evan, son and heir to Robert, son and
-    heir to Meredith, son and heir to Howell, son and heir to David, son
-    and heir to Griffith, son and heir to Cradock, son and heir to
-    Roderick, Lord of Anglesea, son to Owen Gwynedd, Prince of Wales, and
-    younger brother to David, Prince of Wales, who married Emma
-    Plantaginet, sister to King Henry the Second.  There succeeded this
-    David three princes; His nephew Leolinus Magnus, who married Joan
-    daughter to King John,—David his son, nephew to King Henry the
-    Third,—and Llewelyn the last Prince of Wales of that House and line,
-    who lived in King Edward the First’s time.  Sir John Wynne married
-    Sydney, who lyeth buried here, daughter of Sir William Gerrard,
-    Knight, Lord Chancellor of Ireland, by whom he had issue, Sir John
-    Wynne, who died at Lucca, in Italy, Sir Richard Wynne now living,
-    Thomas Wynne who lyeth here, Owen Wynne now living, Robert Wynne who
-    lyeth here, Roger Wynne who lyeth here, William Wynne now living,
-    Maurice Wynne now living, Ellis Wynne who lyeth buried at Whitford,
-    in the county of Flint, Henry Wynne now living, Roger Wynne who lyeth
-    here, and two daughters, Mary now living, married to Sir Roger
-    Mostyn, in the county of Flint, Knight, and Elizabeth now living,
-    married to Sir John Bodville, in the County of Carnaervon, Knight.”
-
-Beneath this is a superb engraving of Dame Sarah Wynne, one of the
-daughters of the old Chevalier Sir Thomas Middleton of Chirk Castle, and
-wife of the above mentioned Sir Richard Wynne; she died June 16th, 1671.
-This piece of engraving was executed by one William Vaughan, in a style
-of elegance hardly to be met with, and may be justly reckoned among the
-first productions of the age in which he lived.
-
-On the south side are two stately pyramidical columns of variegated
-marble, decorated with martial insignias; one to the memory of Meredith
-Wynne, the other to Sir John Wynne and Sydney his wife; on their
-pedestals are Latin inscriptions on black marble, which have been thus
-translated:
-
-    “To the Memory of Meredith Wynne, a descendant of Owen Gwynedd,
-    Prince of Wales, who, under happy auspices, founded the House of
-    Gwydir, removed and endowed the Church of Sant Gwyddelen, during the
-    third tournean expedition, in the fifth year of Henry the Eighth.  He
-    died in the month of March 1525.”
-
-    “To the Memory of John Wynne of Gwydir, Knight and Baronet, with
-    Sydney the daughter of William Gerrard, Knight, Chancellor of the
-    Kingdom of Ireland, the wife of his youth, to whom she bore eleven
-    sons, and two daughters; they lie here waiting the appearance of
-    Christ in Glory.”
-
-Between the above Monuments is a small Tablet of white marble to the
-Memory of John Wynne ap Meredith, with a Latin inscription to the
-following effect:
-
-                 “John Wynne ap Meredith, an Inheritor of his
-                  Father’s virtues, a just and pious Man, to
-                     whom Euna his wife brought five sons
-                       and two daughters.  He died the
-                              9th of July 1559.”
-
-On the floor is a stone effigy in armour, with the feet resting on a lion
-couchant, of Howell Coetmore ap Griffith Vychan ap Dafydd Gam, alias
-Gôch, natural son to David, Prince of Wales, from whose descendants,
-according to tradition, Gwydir was purchased by the Wynnes.
-
-                 [Picture: The Coffin of Leolinus Magnus]
-
-Near to the effigy of Howell Coetmore is the underpart of a stone coffin
-in which Llewelyn ap Iorwerth, surnamed the Great, the son-in-law of King
-John, was buried at the Abbey of Conwy; to the coffin is fixed a piece of
-brass with this inscription:
-
-                “This is the coffin of Leolinus Magnus, Prince
-                   of Wales, who was buried at the Abbey of
-                      Conwy, which upon the dissolution
-                             was removed thence.”
-
-On going from the chapel to the church, you pass over a large square flag
-of free stone, having on its sides a Latin inscription thus translated:
-
-    “To the Memory of the Sons of John Wynne of Gwydir, Knight and
-    Baronet, who died during their father’s life time: John Knight, was
-    buried at Lucca, in the free State of Italy, in the year of his age
-    30, of our Lord 1613.  Robert, who had entered into holy orders, in
-    the year of his age 24, of our Lord 1617.  Thomas, Roger, Thomas, in
-    their minority.—Death! a vapour!  Behold! we have existed.”
-
-In the chancel, between the reading desk and the communion table, is a
-flag of freestone on the remains of Margaret Vaughan, heiress of Caergai;
-she was esteemed the Sappho of her age; many of her poetical productions
-are still extant.
-
-The gallery over the reading desk is said to have been removed here from
-the Abbey of Aberllechog or Maenan Abbey, upon the dissolution of that
-religious house.
-
-Under the reading desk in the Church, in a pew belonging to Kyffdy, is a
-Latin epitaph to the memory of Griffith Lloyd, of Bryniog, Rector of this
-parish; this is said to have been written by himself, and has been much
-admired for its singularity:—it runs thus:
-
-             “Once the undeserving School-master,
-             Then the more undeserving Lecturer,
-    And last of all, the most undeserving Rector of this Parish.
-       Do not think, speak, or write any thing evil of the Dead.”
-
-There is a Market Hall, Town Hall, free schools and alms houses.  The
-latter were erected by Sir John Wynne, in 1610, and received the name of
-Jesus Hospital.  He endowed them for the reception of twelve poor men, by
-ceding the rectorial tithes of Eglwys Fach, which are valued at £200 per
-annum.  Within a mile of Llanrwst there is a spring, which is much
-esteemed for its healthful qualities.  The water is soft, and a drop of
-sal-volatile mixed with a cup of it, turns it white as milk, while oil of
-tartar causes it to assume a pearl colour.  If during the tourist’s visit
-to Llanrwst there should chance to fall much rain, I would advise him by
-all means to view the cataract called
-
-
-
-RHAIADR-Y-PARC MAWR,
-
-
-in the valley of Nant Bwlch yr Haiarn, near Gwydir, but otherwise the
-minuteness of the stream occasions no extraordinary effect from this
-fall, which is about one hundred feet in height.  The chief object of
-interest, however, in this vicinity, is the celebrated lakes, called
-
-
-
-LLYN GEIRIONYDD,
-
-
-upon the borders of which once lived the chief of the Welsh bards,
-_Taliesin_.  At the eastern side of the lake is a mound, upon the summit
-of which there is a kind of hollow, and in it are the remains of an
-ancient edifice, which was probably the residence of Taliesin, in the
-reign of Maelgwn Gwynedd, king of Britain.  Taliesin when an infant was
-found by Prince Elphin by the side of a wear belonging to his father
-Gwyddno Garanhir, lord of Cantrev Gwaelod.  The prince fostered the
-infant, and had it liberally educated; and, at a proper age, introduced
-him to the court of his father Gwyddno.  Upon this occasion, Taliesin
-presented the king with a poem, the subject of which was his own history,
-and another to the prince, which he called Dyhuddiant Elphin, or the
-consolation of Elphin, a translation of which is in Evan’s specimens of
-Welsh poetry.
-
-Taliesin had an opportunity of being serviceable to his benefactor; for
-once, when the prince was imprisoned by his uncle Maelgwn, in the castle
-of Tejanwy, the magic of his muse effected his release.
-
-This celebrated bard was the preceptor of Myrddin ap Merfryn, and to him
-the lovers of poetry are indebted for five new metres, while the
-historian and antiquary are equally benefitted by his accurate
-description of the manners and customs of the ancient Britons.
-
-I quitted Llanrwst on the following morning, and took the road to Conway:
-two miles and a half brought me to the pretty village of
-
-
-
-TREFRIW,
-
-
-which presents an animated scene.  It is situated upon the banks of the
-beautiful river Conway, which is navigable up to this point for vessels
-of fifty tons burthen, that supply the town and neighbourhood with coals,
-lime, groceries, &c. &c. and return laden with slate, supplied from the
-adjacent mines and quarries.
-
-A number of small boats, called coracles, used by the fishermen, are seen
-studding the delightful stream, while the larger vessels, towed against
-the wind or sailing before it, present a pleasing picture.
-
-From this place to Conway there is nothing particularly to attract
-attention, until you arrive within a mile of that celebrated town, when
-from the brow of a hill, is obtained a view of the venerable fortress
-erected by the first Edward, and the strongly fortified walls, completely
-encompassing the town, and strengthened by massive towers.  They are
-coeval with the castle, and are built in the form of a Welsh harp, like
-those of Caernarvon; but here there are no environs, and the town
-presents the same appearance as when the chivalric monarch first
-fortified it.
-
-
-
-CONWAY.
-
-
-The town derives its name from Cyn (chief) and Wy (river).
-
-The principal inn is the Castle, which affords every accommodation the
-traveller can desire.  The Wynnes are celebrated here, as in all parts of
-North Wales.  In the interior of the town stands _Plas Mawr_, which was
-erected in 1585, and is still a remarkable structure; its founder was
-Robert Wynne of Gwydir, the uncle of Sir John Wynne the historian.  Over
-the grand entrance is inscribed, in Greek characters, “_bear and
-forbear_,” over which in Roman characters, “J. H. S. X. P. S.”  (Jesus
-Hominum Salvator et populi salus).  The old college is in Castle Street,
-and the church is built from the remains of the ancient Cistercian Abbey,
-which was founded here by Llewellyn ap Jorwerth, 1185.  It contains a
-rich baptismal font of gothic structure, with a tablet to the memory of
-Nicholas Hookes of the town of Conway, who was the forty-first child of
-William and Alice Hookes, and who was himself the father of twenty-seven
-children.
-
-                         [Picture: Conway Castle]
-
-During my short stay in Conway, I endeavoured to discover the best view
-of the town, which I think is from the eastern side of the river, about
-midway between the chain bridge and the mansion of Sir John Hilton.
-Nothing can be more interesting.  The variety of small craft, sailing and
-anchored, before its warlike screen; the castle, with its towers and
-turrets, rising in hostile grandeur upon its rocky base; the bridge, and
-lovely scenery beyond of purple hills and thriving villages; and the
-bright waters sporting with the luxuriant foliage of its woody margin,
-create a sensation of delight in the pursuer of picturesque scenery,
-which he has probably seldom before experienced.
-
-Another delightful view may be obtained by ascending the rock, which
-overhangs the lodge of the bridge upon its eastern side.  A flight of
-steps conducts to the summit, where a seat is most conveniently placed
-for the accommodation of the lovers of romantic beauty; and the bridge,
-although inferior in magnitude to the stupendous work of art which
-stretches over Bangor Ferry, commands the admiration of the spectator.
-But the chief object of interest is the castle, which surpasses in
-picturesque grandeur any building of the kind I ever beheld.  I thought
-Carnaervon Castle the most beautiful of ruins, but it is not, in my
-opinion, to be compared with Conway.  The solidity of its structure, and
-its expansive site, resembling the fortresses of Syria and the Holy Land,
-give to its exterior all that the most romantic imagination could desire.
-Its foundation is a rock of slate, and its works are impregnable.
-Nothing but famine could, at the time it was erected, have had power to
-subdue it.  Its walls are from ten to twelve feet in thickness, and it
-had formerly a deep and broad moat, on the west and north west sides;
-which with the sea washing its base on the east and south, formed
-insurmountable barriers to the assailants.
-
-It was evening when I first entered this noble ruin.  The porteress very
-ungraciously left me to my meditations after admitting me, locking the
-gate after her, and leaving me like a state prisoner in the royal
-fortress.  I confess I was little pleased with the manners of my
-conductress and the solitary situation in which I was placed, and
-sensations arose within me like those which a school boy feels when
-passing a churchyard at midnight.
-
-The sun had set, and the deep shadows of eve were darkening into night,
-as I stood alone in the court yard, and flitting visions arose before me
-of those who crossed its space in distant bygone ages—“the plumed
-troops,” and courtly dames, and all the glitter of the olden times.  As I
-thus stood amongst the ruins, a deep drawn sigh, close by my ear, made my
-heart leap into my throat, as I turned to discover from whence it
-proceeded.  But all was solitude around.  The huge festoons of ivy,
-unruffled by a breath of air, hung heavily in funereal grandeur on the
-walls.  As I passed into what had been the banqueting hall, the darkness
-increased.  It was a noble apartment, and measured 130 feet in length,
-and thirty in breadth, in height twenty.  Nine windows looked southward,
-up the river, and two into the courtyard.  In the recesses were stone
-seats, capable of accommodating twelve persons; and, as I seated myself
-in one of these, my delusion of other days came over me.  Here sat the
-first Edward, the hero of Palestine; here was the monarch besieged, and
-almost reduced by famine; here Hotspur and King Richard held a
-conference; and the latter, putting himself into the power of
-Northumberland, was betrayed by him, and sent a prisoner to the usurper
-Bolingbroke.
-
-    “Life’s but a walking shadow—a poor player,
-    That struts and frets his hour upon the stage,
-    And then is heard no more!”
-
-As I made this apt quotation, another deep and heavy sigh, and a rustling
-in the ivy, startled me, and the bird of solitude, the lonely owl,
-flapped his heavy wings, and flew past me to a remoter corner of the
-ruined hall.  I arose, and walked to a small chamber, where there was an
-open ornamented casement, and which, as I was afterwards informed, bears
-the name of the queen’s oriel; from which there is a pleasant prospect of
-part of the ruin and scenery beyond.
-
-I then proceeded to the terrace, at the south western extremity, which is
-on the surface of the rock; and the prospect from this spot, interesting
-at all times, is doubly so by moonlight.  The suspension bridge beneath,
-the ocean on the left, and this fertile valley on the right, with the
-sparkling Conway meandering through it, compose a scene of unexampled
-beauty.
-
-In the year 1290, when Edward was engaged in a dispute with the King of
-France, and was determined to revenge himself upon that potentate, in
-order to obtain supplies, he made the experiment of taxing his newly
-acquired Welsh subjects; which they resented by hanging Roger de
-Pulesdon, who had been appointed to collect the tax; and by defeating the
-English forces, who attempted to enforce them.
-
-Alarmed at a revolt, which was now rising into importance, and which
-threatened to wrest from him his new dominions, Edward entered North
-Wales, to conduct the war in person.
-
-Having proceeded in his march to Conway, he crossed that arm of the sea
-with a part of his forces, and retiring into the castle with them,
-awaited the arrival of the remainder.  In his passage he lost many
-waggons, and other carriages, loaded with provisions, which were
-intercepted by the Welsh, who came down in multitudes from the mountains,
-and invested the castle, upon the land side, while a sudden rise in the
-Conway, which prevented his troops from crossing the river and rendering
-him assistance, made his situation extremely alarming.  He was surrounded
-by water and the enemy, cut off from his army, and threatened with
-famine.
-
-The good fortune of Edward, however, returned to him in the hour of need.
-The river subsided, and his forces being able to cross to his relief, the
-Welsh again retired to the mountains, and the English monarch passed his
-Christmas holidays without interruption at the castle.
-
-In 1665, the Earl of Conway, under pretence of its being for his
-majesty’s service, stripped the castle of all its furniture, iron and
-lead, and shipped them off to Ireland, otherwise it might have remained
-as firm and entire at the present day, as when it was first erected.
-
-If these Goths were aware of the ignominy they attached to their shields
-by acts so disgraceful, they might perhaps have permitted beauty and
-grandeur to remain undefiled by their sacrilegious touch.
-
-The young men still keep up many of the ancient local customs; amongst
-which, on Nos Calanmai, or, the eve of the first of May, they hang on the
-houses of their sweethearts bunches of rosemary and ribbons.
-
-At the door of a prude they tie a penglog, or part of a horse’s skeleton.
-There is likewise a custom preserved called Stocsio.  Upon Easter Sunday,
-a great number of boys and men assemble on Pentwthil, with wands of
-gorse, to proclaim the laws and regulations which are to be observed upon
-the following morning.  The last married person is sought to perform this
-office, who, mounted on a heap of stones, issues his mandate, while the
-rest listen with silent attention.  He decrees that all men under sixty
-years of age are to appear in the street before six o’clock on the
-following morning; and all under forty, before four; and all under twenty
-are commanded not to go to bed at all, under penalty of being put into
-the stocks.
-
-The orator then descends, amidst loud cheering, and the assembled parties
-separate; the younger branches to form plans of amusement, and the graver
-to secure their carts, waggons, and wheelbarrows, with chains and locks,
-to prevent their being seized upon the following day; a very necessary
-precaution, as every vehicle, unmanacled, or otherwise unsecured, is sure
-of being pressed before dawn of day into the service of the light-hearted
-youths, who are not over careful of their neighbour’s property during the
-uproarious period of their festivity.
-
-Early in the morning, the stocks are placed at one end of the street, and
-a party, marching to the inspiring music of a drum and fife, parade the
-town, in order to convey to the place of punishment all seceders from
-this ancient law of custom.  When they arrive at a house where a rebel
-resides, the storming party endeavour by all practicable means to gain
-admittance; such as climbing in at the windows, forcing open the back
-door, &c., and they generally secure the culprit; who, if he be caught in
-bed, is allowed sufficient time to dress himself, and then hurried away
-to the stocks, amid the exulting shouts of the assembled multitude.
-
-His feet being secured, one of the party gives him a severe lecture upon
-the sin of idleness, and of breaking old established customs.  Then
-taking his right hand, he puts questions to him; such as, whether he
-would rather kiss the mistress or the maid?—whether he prefers buttermilk
-or strong ale?—and the more satisfactory his answers are to the party,
-the more thickly his hand is plaistered with mud, until at length he is
-released, and, with loud cheering, permitted to join the forces, as they
-march off in search of another rebel.
-
-There is a pearl fishery at Conway, and many poor families are supported
-by gathering the muscles, which contain these gems.
-
-The fish is called by Linnæus _myd margaritefera_.  The produce is
-transmitted to London in the pure natural state, and easily finds a
-market amongst the jewellers, who purchase them by weight, but in the
-neighbourhood of Conway the purposes they are appropriated to are
-unknown.
-
-It was my good fortune to meet with a brother tourist at the Castle Inn;
-who, after acquainting me with the above facts, offered to conduct me in
-the morning to Llandudno, which offer I thankfully accepted; and, before
-the sun had finished his draught of mountain dew, we had crossed the
-bridge, and were pursuing our course to the appointed spot.  The tide was
-at low ebb, and a pleasant walk of three quarters of a mile upon the hard
-sand brought us to
-
-
-
-DINAS GONWY
-
-
-“The fort of the Conway.”  By the English, it is called the Gannoc and by
-the common people in the neighbourhood “Y Faer dre.”
-
-The ruins of an ancient castle are to be seen at a short distance,
-situated upon two hillocks, near the shore.  From thence we crossed by
-Eglwy’s Rhôs, where Maelgwn Gwynedd is said to have taken refuge to avoid
-the yellow fever, which was committing great havoc in all parts of
-Europe.  Gloddaeth, the residence of Lady Mostyn Champneys, is sweetly
-situated near this place.  It was built by her ancestors in the reign of
-Elizabeth, and is celebrated for the Welsh manuscripts contained in the
-library.  The grounds are most tastefully laid out, and the tourist will
-find himself amply rewarded for his pains while viewing the extreme
-beauty of the scenes around.
-
-
-
-LLANDUDNO
-
-
-is built upon a huge mass of rock which projects into the sea, called The
-Great Orme’s Head; a small village, where formerly a great deal of
-smuggling was carried on; and, as we stood gazing upon the frightful
-precipice beneath us, at the base of which the ocean breaks its mighty
-bulk, and foams as if enraged at opposition, my companion related a story
-of a fisherman’s daughter and her lover, the circumstances of which took
-place within view of the position we then occupied.
-
-
-
-THE SMUGGLER.
-
-
-“It was my fortune, or rather my misfortune,” said my companion, “some
-forty years ago, to take up my quarters at a fisherman’s hut in the
-village, who was a widower with one child, a lovely girl of about sixteen
-years of age.  She performed all the household duties for her father with
-the greatest neatness and cheerfulness, and at evening was looked upon by
-the youth of the surrounding neighbourhood, as the gayest and handsomest
-lass that tripped upon the hard sands to the music of a blind harper, who
-lived in the vicinity.  Many a time as I stood and saw her light feet
-moving in the inspiring dance, have I said to myself, it would be a pity
-now if so light a foot should ever carry a heavy heart.  Poor Jane! she
-was the sweetest wild flower of the cliff—nursed in storm and tempest,
-yet in her simplicity more winning to the heart and eye than the proudest
-exotic luxury could produce.  I took a pleasing interest in her; and for
-the attention she paid me, resolved upon improving her education to the
-extent of my ability, which I considered an easy task, for the organ of
-veneration, I observed, was large, which induced me to think she
-respected those who took an interest in her welfare.  Benevolence and
-hope were equally prominent, and, when this happy association appears,
-the leading feature of such persons’ characters may be perceived in the
-religious obedience they pay to all those who are anxious to instruct
-their minds and purify their thoughts.  I felt notwithstanding,
-considerable anxiety for her future welfare; for at the lower part and
-back of the head, between the _mastoid processes_ and the _occipital
-bone_, I had noticed an enlargement, which I knew, combined as it was
-with the moral sentiments and the organs of adhesiveness, strongly
-developed, would either prove the blessing or the bane of her existence,
-as these opposites depended not only upon the man’s disposition to whom
-she might yield her affections, but to the destiny of that man,
-successful or disastrous.  And I had frequent opportunities of observing
-that she had a strong partiality for a youth who was possessed of
-personal and mental qualifications far beyond those of his associates,
-but who was wild, with the bump of marvellousness extremely prominent.”
-
-“Zounds,” said I, “if you cover your story with so many excrescences, I
-shall never be able to remember one half of it.”
-
-My companion smiled benevolently, as he replied, I perceive you lack the
-organ of _individuality_; and then resumed the thread of his discourse.
-After remaining with them nearly three months, during which I may give
-myself credit for having made good use of my time in improving the
-manners and intellect of my docile pupil, I took leave of the fisherman
-and his daughter, promising to pay them a visit in the course of a month,
-before I returned to merry England.  Tears stood in the eyes of poor Jane
-as I turned to quit the cottage, and the old father squeezed my hand with
-a cordiality that effectually stopped the circulation of my blood in that
-extremity.  Mark, her lover, seemed neither sorry nor pleased, but
-leaning his broad back against the white-washed wall of the cottage,
-whistled with the greatest composure, “The jovial fellow’s farewell.”
-
-After a month’s ramble, I returned to this spot on a dark, stormy day in
-October;—it was indeed a dreary evening.  The rain fell in torrents, and
-the hoarse sound of the surge came heavily upon my ear as I approached
-the cottage of my late worthy host; when suddenly, as I lifted my eyes
-from the ground, I perceived a number of persons walking in slow
-procession, as from a funeral, and a cold shudder came over me as I
-recognised the father of Jane; his white locks exposed to the beating
-rain, his head bent to the ground, and his hands clasped upon his breast,
-in the action of mental agony.
-
-Thinking my visit would prove ill-timed, I proceeded to a small
-public-house, and, while my garments were drying at the fire, I managed
-to extract from the landlord, that the funeral of Jane Morgan had just
-taken place.  Astonishment and sorrow chained my tongue for some time; I
-shall never forget the sensations I experienced at this mournful
-relation.  I sat motionless in my chair, without uttering a syllable for
-a full hour, or noticing anything that transpired around me during that
-time.  I could think of nothing but Jane Morgan; I could see nothing but
-her young blooming face and yellow locks, which used to glitter like
-threads of gold in the sunbeams, as the fresh sea breeze blew them into a
-thousand fantastic waves; her airy form, as it flew along the sand on
-which her light foot scarcely left a print; her simple dress; all this I
-brought to my “mind’s eye,” and afterwards the church-yard where she was
-laid a corpse—I burst into tears.
-
-Her lover, Mark Bratts, who had for more than a twelvemonth paid
-courtship to poor Jane, had obtained her father’s consent to their union,
-whenever he could realize a sufficient sum to begin the world with in a
-prudent and respectable way.  The precarious life of a fisherman,
-however, appeared to Mark to hold out but little prospect of wealth
-enough either to gain or to support a wife; and he resolved upon
-obtaining the object of his wishes as speedily as possible in some other
-way.
-
-A man named Simpson, a notorious smuggler in the neighbourhood, was known
-to have amassed a considerable property, and Mark resolved to offer
-himself to serve as one of the crew on board his lugger; hoping, that in
-a trip or two, he might earn sufficient to claim his promised bride.  He
-was accepted aboard; and the day following the little vessel spread her
-light sails to the breeze, and took her course for Holland.  Mark
-possessed a little money which he laid out in a venture, trusting thereby
-to clear so much as would enable him to claim as his bride the object of
-his love.
-
-It was a stormy day when the inhabitants of Llandudno were roused by the
-report of guns from seaward, the wind blowing furiously right on shore.
-It was about the time that the smuggler’s vessel was expected, and those
-interested in her safe arrival hastily ran to this promontory to
-ascertain if she was in sight, or in danger, for a king’s cutter was
-known to be cruising on the coast.  It was just dawn; the sea was running
-mountains high; and within a league of the rocks they perceived two
-vessels within half a mile of each other.  The first was a small lugger,
-carrying a press of canvass that seemed to run her hull under as she made
-directly for the headland, and her masts bent like reeds to the fury of
-the tempest.  As she approached the headland, a number of kegs piled one
-upon another on the decks, were observed to vanish into the deep by
-dozens, being flung overboard by the busy crew.  They were within a mile
-of the shore, when the revenue cutter, hauling her wind, poured a
-broadside of grape shot into the smuggler, so well directed that several
-were seen to fall from their stations in various parts of the vessel.
-Still they carried every stitch of canvass, knowing that there was water
-enough for the light lugger to cross the bar after they had rounded the
-point, and that the revenue cutter would be sure to strike upon the sands
-if she attempted to follow them half a mile further, being of much
-heavier tonnage.  Besides, she was already in some peril, by venturing so
-far in shore, with a gale blowing heavily from the north east.
-
-She was soon within hail of the head, and the cliffs were covered with
-human beings, gazing eagerly upon the little craft beneath it, when
-suddenly, a chain shot from the cutter carried away her mainmast, which
-fell over the side.  To cut away the stays and clear the wreck, was the
-work of a minute, and the smuggler’s bark swept like a sea bird round the
-great Ormes head into the Bay of Conway, but not until their pursuers had
-sent another broadside into her hull as they stood off shore.  As the
-Typhon, the name of the king’s vessel turned from the pursuit; the daring
-outlaws sent up a shout of triumph, which was echoed from those upon the
-rocks, and after a slight shock which the lugger received, as she crossed
-the sand-bank, they floated safely in smooth water.
-
-But where was Jane?  Foremost of that crowd which gathered on the rocks,
-when the firing was first heard, flew the light form of the loving
-maiden, like a young eagle glaring for its mate.  She stood upon the
-extreme verge of the cliff, unconscious of every thing, save the peril of
-her lover, her eyes fixed upon the vessels, straining as they would crack
-their strings, to discover the form of him who had her heart in keeping;
-and, as the vessel glided under the headland, she hung over the brink of
-the precipice, gazing upon the dead and dying, with whom the decks were
-strewed.  But she saw him not.  With the swiftness of the seamew, she
-followed the course of the smuggler along the shore; and when at last she
-saw the white sails gathered to the yards, and the vessel riding safely
-at anchor in the rocky bay, she leaped into a boat, and rowed herself to
-its side.  A moment, and she jumped upon the deck, calling wildly for
-poor Mark.  But no one answered her.  With hair dishevelled, and eyes
-glancing fire, she turned each dead man’s face up to the sky.  At length,
-a headless trunk met her distracted gaze.  A bright gold ringlet of hair,
-tinged with the smuggler’s blood, and fastened to the breast of his
-shirt, the blue pea-jacket she gave Mark at his departure, and the brass
-buckles which her father wore, and presented to him as a pledge of future
-favour, all flashed conviction on her mind, that it was the mutilated
-form of her lover.  A wild scream, which struck terror into the hearts of
-the daring crew, proclaimed her heart was broken; and falling on his
-mangled corse she instantly expired.
-
-This was the melancholy end of the lovers.  And you may remember that I
-said her happiness or misery would depend not only on the disposition of
-the man she loved, but upon his future destiny; the organs of amativeness
-and adhesiveness being so largely developed.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Here an object attracted his attention at a short distance, and he
-suddenly left off speaking to examine the scull of a melancholy donkey,
-which stood gazing upon the waste of waters.
-
-Having carefully examined the animal’s pericranium, on which he made some
-scientific remarks, elaborately pointing out the distinguishing
-characteristics of the quadruped and biped race, I reminded him that it
-was high time to retrace our steps to Conway, and, as we trudged along,
-he related a story of rather a whimsical nature, which, as it tended to
-illustrate his favorite science, afforded me much amusement.
-
-
-
-THE BUMP OF ORDER.
-
-
-He lived, he said, at one time opposite to a house where resided a newly
-married couple.  The house had the appearance of particular neatness, the
-flag stones before the door being white as snow, as were those supporting
-the railing of the area.  The ledges of the windows were in keeping with
-the rest, and the windows themselves were perfectly unstained.  The
-curtains below were of green damask, and above of elegant chintz, with
-pink linings.  A variety of plants bloomed in the balcony, and the pots
-were ranged in precise order.
-
-It greatly excited his curiosity, that every week, for upwards of a
-twelvemonth, he saw one or two new servants.  It appeared that one week
-was the longest period the lady ever permitted any menial to remain in
-the house.
-
-This circumstance created some surprise, as, during the time, he had
-never observed a single gentleman or lady knock at their door.
-
-He had an opera glass, through which he took every opportunity of
-examining their heads across the street.  At length, his bump of
-curiosity over-mastering every other consideration, determined him to
-seek an occasion of becoming acquainted with the lady of the house.  For
-this purpose, he dressed himself with peculiar nicety, and stepping over,
-intimated by a rat-tat-tat that he was at the door.  A female servant
-answered the summons, and ushered him into the parlour, where the lady
-was seated gazing with a vacant stare upon some pots of geraniums, which
-occupied a niche in the apartment.  When a lady receives a visit from a
-gentleman she has never been introduced to, it is natural for her to look
-in his face, and an opinion is too frequently formed by the
-Lavater-loving sex, of the character, at first sight, of the being before
-them.  But Mrs. — took a very different view of my philosophical friend;
-for her eyes fell from the geraniums to the toes of her visitor, as if
-she had the art of discovering the character of a man by the state of his
-boots.
-
-“I hope you will excuse the appearance of a stranger at”—
-
-The lady interrupted him with, “None of the cleanest, indeed, Mr.
-Thingumbob.  Good God, Susan, why did’nt you tell him to wipe his feet on
-the mat!”
-
-“I beg you will excuse,”—continued my friend, apologizing.
-
-“Well, I suppose I must excuse.  My gracious! what are you doing, sir?
-you’ve put your nasty wet hat upon my beautiful rose-wood table!  Why,
-Susan, I say, bring a cloth—who could ever believe that any man would
-bring his hat into a parlour! you stupid girl, is that the way to rub a
-table? use a little elbow grease, you intolerable slow coach—there, get
-away and let me do it myself!” and with that the lady snatched the cloth
-from the hands of her domestic, and began rubbing and puffing in a style
-which sufficiently proved she was capable of _giving_, if not _receiving_
-a polish.
-
-After ten minutes’ exercise, the lady returned the rubber to the servant,
-and with a face ruddy as the full moon at its rising, seated herself upon
-the chair, and cast a look of satisfaction round the room at the peculiar
-neatness of its appearance.
-
-“I perceive, madam,” said my friend, “you take particular delight in
-seeing your apartments kept clean and neat, and the arrangement of this
-room does honour to your taste;” he had touched the string that vibrated
-to her heart.
-
-“I confess, sir, I feel a pride in seeing every thing in its place, and
-cleanliness is an indispensable qualification in the servant I engage.
-Will you believe me, sir, when I tell you that this girl you just saw, is
-the forty-ninth I have had in the last twelvemonth, and I have no more
-idea of keeping her than I have of taking back any of her predecessors.”
-
-“Ah madam, servants are sad plagues!”
-
-“Plagues, sir, they are devils.  Why, it was but yesterday, when I
-thought my house, from the attic to the kitchen, was so clean, that not a
-speck of dirt could be visible to a fly, I was obliged to upset a whole
-boiler full of the most delicious pea-soup into the middle of the
-kitchen!”
-
-The phrenologist lifted up his legs, by instinct, as if he felt the
-sprinkling of it upon them, and exclaimed, “How unfortunate!”
-
-“Unfortunate, sir, it was insupportable,” cried the lady; “but I made her
-clean it up again!”
-
-My learned friend was then put to a nonplus; he could not for the life of
-him, make out why Mrs. — should have taken the trouble to upset a boiler
-of pea-soup into the middle of the clean kitchen; and this he politely
-requested her to explain.
-
-“Why, I’ll tell you, sir, it is my pleasure to see every thing in its
-place, and a grease spot to me is as bad as a plague spot to many.  Now,
-sir, although the kitchen looked better, I’ll be bound to say, than any
-other kitchen in town, yet I was anxious to see if my servant had obeyed
-my orders in taking a spot of grease out of the boards, which by accident
-fell upon them the day before; so lifting up the oil-cloth—judge of my
-horror and dismay to find it untouched!  I inquired the reason.  The
-servants had the impudence to tell me, they had not time, at which, I
-made no more ado, but threw the boiler of soup upon it, which took them a
-good two hours to clean up again.  I _will_ have every thing done, and in
-order.”
-
-“Indeed, madam,” said my friend, “I perceive the admirable effects of
-your system—this room is in admirable order.”
-
-“This room, sir! have the goodness to walk into my bed-room up stairs!”
-
-My phrenological friend, although he had passed the meridian of life,
-could not help thinking this invitation rather extraordinary, more
-particularly so, when the lady desired him to take off his shoes.
-
-“For,” said she, “I never allow even my husband to come up stairs in his
-shoes.”
-
-Now it so happened that my friend had a particular reason for wishing to
-avoid this ceremony, having walked a hole in one of his stockings the day
-before, and the laundress was in possession of his _other_ pair.
-Nothing, however, could alter her determination of exhibiting her
-cleanliness.  She protested he should see her bed-room, and insisted on
-his taking off his shoes!
-
-With a shrug _à la française_, he submitted, but had not ascended half
-way up the stair-case before the lady who followed, perceived the injury
-his hose had sustained, and with a cry of horror exclaimed, “Susan! bring
-up a needle and thread!” the words were scarcely uttered, when the girl
-appeared, and without hesitation (without asking him to draw off his
-hose) seizing him by the foot, compelled him to submit to her needle’s
-operation; blushing and confounded at the awkward position his
-unjustifiable curiosity had drawn him into; having completed her orders,
-the girl descended to the kitchen, while he ascended to a square landing
-place on the first floor.  On the outside of the window was a veranda
-filled with the choicest plants and flowers; the casement being open a
-delightful breeze entered the house, bringing with it the odours of the
-little garden; and he was about making a complimentary observation upon
-the admirable arrangement of her bough-pots, when, helter-skelter, in,
-through the casement, bolted a large tabby cat, and with a spring,
-clearing my friend’s shoulders, alighted upon the elegantly laced cap of
-the precise Mrs. —.  They had not time to recover from their first alarm,
-when down tumbled all the roses, lignum vitæs, rhododandrums, geraniums
-and myrtles, being dislodged by a huge tom-cat rushing in, in pursuit of
-the aforesaid timid feline intruder.  Crash, crash! went the
-bough-pots—squall, squall, went the lady.  Damnation! exclaimed the
-gentleman.  The lady’s foot slipped, and she slid and bumped to the
-bottom of the stairs; the phrenologist, endeavouring to save her,
-blundered completely over the lady.  The two cats scampered round and
-athwart the elegantly arranged parlour, dislodging every ornament from
-the chimney-piece; and at length, my friend, having recovered his shoes,
-hastily snatched up his hat and cane, and made a precipitate escape from
-the house of a lady, who was unfortunate in having the bump of _order_
-too strongly developed.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-We arrived at the castle in Conway greatly fatigued, and equally
-delighted with our day’s ramble.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER XII.
-
-
-Route to Aber—Penmaen Mawr—The pet Goat—Aber—Legend of Llewllyn and the
-Captive Knight—Road from Aber to Bangor—Penrhyn Castle—Bangor—Inns—The
-Cathedral—The Castle—Free Schools—The Menai Bridge—Song, Farewell to
-North Wales, air, Ar Hyd y Nos—Conclusion.
-
-    “When the heathen trumpets clang
-    Round beleaguer’d Chester rang,
-    Veiled nun and friar grey
-    March’d from Bangor’s fair Abbaye:
-    High their holy Anthem sounds,
-    Cestria’s vale the hymn rebounds,
-    Floating down the silver Dee,
-                   O Miserere Domine!”
-
-                                                         SIR WALTER SCOTT.
-
-ON the following morning, we started for Aber.  The coast scenery is
-extremely grand; and passing, the promontory of Penmaen Bach, a
-semicircular range of mountains, stretching to the overpeering height of
-Penmaen Mawr, from a delightful shelter to one of the most beautiful
-coast retreats in North Wales.
-
-The present road winds round the waist of Penmaen Mawr, and nothing can
-exceed the terrors that, above and underneath it, meet the eye of the
-traveller.  A few goats are generally seen wandering among the shingly
-surface; and their motions, though so light, send the loose fragments
-down, like the fall of a glacier.  As I stood gazing on the awful depth
-beneath, four large pieces of rock rolled into the centre of the road,
-not ten yards from the place where I was standing, the smallest of which,
-had it touched me, would have caused instant death, or disabled me in
-such a manner as to have prevented my venturing upon a second tour.  I
-turned my eyes above, and thought upon the legend of Dolbadarn; and my
-blood chilled to think, if, by any chance, a steed and rider should be
-precipitated over its brow—what a spectacle they would exhibit at its
-base!  But, at the time of the legend, there was scarce footing for a
-goat to pass along, and nothing to interrupt the parties from finally
-plunging into the sea.
-
-“When last I visited this spot,” said my companion, “I observed a man
-sitting by the road side, with his hands clasped, his elbows resting upon
-his knees, and his face bespeaking feelings of deep sorrow.  I have a
-strong aversion to intruding on the secrets of others; but this lorn man,
-seated in such a solitary situation, and forming so interesting a
-foreground in the picture, made me desirous of entering into conversation
-with him, in order to discover the source of his grief.
-
-“‘You seem to be in grief, my friend; can I do anything to relieve it?’
-
-“‘God bless you, sir, you cannot.’
-
-“‘May be otherwise, if you will tell me the cause.’
-
-“‘I’ll tell you, sir; but it is out of your power to repair my loss.’
-
-“He then feelingly related the following simple tale.”
-
-
-
-THE PET GOAT.
-
-
-About three years ago, sir, I married one of the prettiest girls you ever
-saw—an inhabitant of the neighbouring village.  Her good heart was light,
-and her hand always open to the stranger and the poor, as far as our
-means could afford.  We were married in the little church of Aber, and a
-merry one was our wedding day.  Her mother gave me a young kid upon the
-occasion, which we took home with us and brought up in the cottage, as
-you would a dog that you loved for the giver’s sake; and for its own sake
-I loved the pretty animal.  It was as playful and as gentle as a kitten;
-and I taught it a number of tricks that greatly amused all our
-neighbours.  Truan hyny!  At length, my poor Mary brought me a boy, but
-she, poor girl, was too delicate to suckle the infant, and my gentle
-goat, that had lately brought forth two kids, supplied us with milk for
-the child, who did well, and God be praised, still does well;—my poor pet
-was the saving of his life.  Well, I went to my work, as usual, and Mary
-made my home a heaven upon earth;—for she was an angel, and furnished me
-with every comfort that mortal could desire.  God bless her!—and she is
-blessed, if goodness finds bliss in heaven, which no one doubts.
-
-Well, sir, a second year flew away quickly, and my partner brought me
-forth twins—the sweetest babes eyes ever looked upon, and so like each
-other, you couldn’t tell which was which; so we tied a ribbon upon Mary’s
-arm, to distinguish her from Kate.  Well, my poor pet goat again stood
-wet nurse to the offspring; and my wife recovered her health and
-beautiful looks; our evenings passed in talking of what we should do for
-them, when they grew up.  Ah, sir, it would have done your heart good to
-have seen her blue eyes turned up to the sky, imploring blessings upon
-their innocent heads, and every night kneel down to pray to her Creator,
-for mercy on herself and me! although He knows better than I do, that she
-was as free from soil as the waters of the rocky rill, and you might see
-her heart as clearly as the pebbles at its bottom.  Ah! that was a sight
-for good men to look upon, and be thankful that they had seen it.  You’ll
-excuse me, sir; but I can’t help shedding tears, when I think upon the
-fate of poor Mary!—gwae! gwae!
-
-The pet goat, sir, was wandering upon the shelving rocks which now hang
-over us, and there were many others above.  Do you see that, sir, with
-one of its horns nearly straight, just upon the edge of that projecting
-mass?  Just beneath that she was browsing, when, all of a sudden, a large
-piece fell from the brow of the mountain, and, lighting upon the body of
-my favourite, she was dashed into the centre of the road, just where we
-are now standing; and, when I ran to her the look of her bright grey eyes
-went to my heart—poor thing!  I never saw anything more affectionate in a
-christian; for her looks spoke more than any words I ever heard in the
-way of gratitude; and she licked my hand, poor dumb beast! and sighed,
-and died without a groan, poor thing! poor thing! (and he wept in the
-bitterness of his feeling.)
-
-You may wonder, sir, that I should cry so, when I tell you about the
-death of a goat; but it is the consequences attendant upon it that wring
-the tears from my eyes.  When poor pet died, my wife was obliged to nurse
-her young twins, for no woman could be found in the neighbourhood to
-assist her, and I couldn’t afford to buy another goat, and I couldn’t
-bear to ask for milk which I wasn’t able to pay for, for all somehow went
-wrong with me after the loss of our favourite.  Mary grew weaker and
-weaker every day, and I couldn’t go to my work, and leave her, without
-any one to watch over her.  My spirit was broken, and I cared for nothing
-in the world, but attending the sick bed of Mary and the children.  To be
-sure, I managed to get enough for the support of life; but the twins
-couldn’t eat the food I brought them.  The mother had not milk enough to
-support them; and I saw her, day by day, sinking under the affliction I
-had no power to soften.  At length, my two pretty babes died, one after
-the other, and Mary’s heart broke to see the stroke of Providence.  She
-died too, sir, and with her all that made life dear to me, except my poor
-little boy.  I shall never, never recover! and I know that the sod will
-shortly be laid upon my head, by the side of the grave where rest the
-bones of my dear Mary.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-The numerous accidents that have happened on this mountain render it an
-object of awful interest.  Mr. Pennant, in his tour, relates the
-following circumstances:
-
-    “The Rev. Mr. Jones, who in 1762 was the Rector of Llanelian in the
-    Isle of Anglesea, fell, with his horse and a midwife behind him, down
-    the steepest part.  The _sage-femme_ perished, as did the nag.  The
-    divine, however, with great philosophy, unsaddled the steed, and
-    marched off with the trappings, exulting at his preservation.”
-
-He relates another accident, that occurred here, in the following words:
-
-    “I have often heard of another accident, attended with such romantic
-    circumstances, that I would not venture to mention it, had I not the
-    strongest traditional authority to this day, in the mouth of every
-    one in the parish of Llanfair Fechan, in which this promontory
-    stands.  Sion Humphreys, of this parish, paid his addresses to Ann
-    Thomas, of Creuddyn, on the other side of the Conway river.  They had
-    made an appointment to meet at a fair in the town of Conway.  He in
-    his way fell over Penmaen Mawr.  She was overset in the ferry boat,
-    and was the only person saved out of fourscore!  They were married,
-    and lived very long together in the parish of Llanfair.  She was
-    buried April 11th, 1744, aged 116.  He survived her five years, and
-    was buried Dec. 1749, close by her in the parish church yard, where
-    their graves are familiarly shown to this day.”
-
-On the summit of a hill, in the neighbourhood of Penmaen Mawr, are the
-ruins of an ancient British camp, of vast magnitude, which was deemed
-impregnable.  It is a site of considerable interest, as well for its
-antiquity, as for the magnificent prospect which it commands of the
-ocean, the Isle of Anglesea, the straits, the Ormes head, the island of
-Priestholm, the beautiful town of Beaumauris, and the chain of Snowdonia,
-of which it is the terminating link.
-
-Having passed round the frightful promontory of Penmaen Mawr, by the
-admirable road which, with incredible labour, has been cut by government,
-at the expense of £10,000, and forms a belt to the mountain, the country
-becomes more fertile; the plantations are larger, and more numerous, and
-the hills are clothed with verdure, which never appears upon the wild
-forehead of that frowning mass; and hedges rise on either side of the
-road, through which the eye is pleased with the sight of waving fields of
-grain, until we reach the picturesque village of
-
-
-
-ABER.
-
-
-The name of the inn here is the Bulkley Arms, and a more comfortable
-hostel, for one who travels in search of the beauties of nature, cannot
-be desired; although, to the fastidious, it may, perhaps, be thought too
-small, and to the luxurious it may not offer the viands which he covets.
-For myself, give me the room overlooking the beautiful little garden
-which sends its thousand perfumes into the apartment, when the sun goes
-down and the moon lights up the Menai with her silver beams!  Let me sit,
-silent and alone, there—there, where “heavenly pensive contemplation
-dwells.”  At the entrance to the glen, upon its eastern side, is a very
-high artificial mound, flat at the top, which is said to be the site of a
-castle belonging to Llewellyn the great.  On it stands the house of Mr.
-Crawley, a sketch of which, with the glen, is annexed.  It was taken from
-under the arch of the bridge, and gives a better idea of the scene than
-words have power to convey.
-
-The mountain, on the eastern side of the vale is clothed with oak and ash
-trees; but, upon the west, there is no foliage.  The river rushes with
-great impetuosity after a flood, from its mountain fall, into the Menai
-straits, winding through the glen, and encircling several rocky islets in
-its course.  The fall is about a mile and a half up the stream, and, at
-the extremity of the vale, a convex mountain rises, down which it leaps,
-from a height of about sixty feet; and there is said to be a large stone
-here, on which the army of Llewellyn sharpened their spears and arrows;
-and the marks are still shown to the tourist.
-
-But the prospect from the bridge, which crosses the stream, on the road
-to Conway, is the most interesting; from this spot you command a view of
-the river, at its greatest magnitude, sparkling along its rock-impeded
-course, and behold it dancing and foaming, as if with joy, into the
-salts, like a child bounding to its mother.
-
-                             [Picture: Aber]
-
-The following short poem is founded upon a tradition connected with this
-place.  It was twilight when the muse flew in at the window, and at that
-endearing time I yielded to her influence.  The story is well known to
-every villager of this delightful neighbourhood.
-
-
-
-LLEWELYN AND THE CAPTIVE KNIGHT.
-
-
-    Oh! who is he that rides along
-    So proudly on his charger strong,
-    Amid yon gay and gallant throng
-       Through Aber’s lonely vale?
-
-    With plumed casque upon his head,
-    And mace at saddle bow so red,
-    And battle brand, the foeman’s dread,
-       And glittering shirt of mail?
-
-    ’Tis ancient Cambria’s pride and boast,
-    Her hope, her strength, her chief, her host,
-    Whose fame she spreads from coast to coast.
-       And trumpets to the sky!
-
-    And Saxon blood is on his mace,
-    And gouts his shining blade deface,
-    Hail, bravest of the bravest race!
-       And pride of chivalry!
-
-    And who is she, so peerless fair,
-    With full dark eye, of lustre rare,
-    And snowy neck, and raven hair,
-       On palfrey by his side?
-
-    With native gems upon her vest,
-    Snowdonia’s own—Snowdonia’s best,
-    Rising and sinking on her breast,
-       And glance of royal pride?
-
-    The noblest lady of the land,
-    (For she with him joined hand to hand
-    In wedlock’s stout and holy band),
-       Llewelyn’s noble dame.
-
-    For her do bards their praises sing,
-    And minstrels strike the sounding string,
-    Till mountains high and valleys ring
-       With fair Johanna’s name!
-
-    And who is he with drooping plume,
-    And golden locks, and brow of gloom,
-    Whose cheek hath lost its manly bloom,
-       And sorrow speaking eye?
-
-    William de Breos is he hight,
-    A courtier fair and gallant knight,
-    Ta’en by Llewelyn in the fight
-       Before Montgomery.
-
-    Oh! ’tis a glorious sight to see
-    The marshalled ranks of liberty,
-    With banners waving high and free,
-       Wind down the hollow vale;
-
-    Their broad swords flashing in the sun,
-    And spears too bright to look upon,
-    Returning from the field they’ve won,
-       And from the foeman pale.
-
-    The prince within his castle wall,
-    There rose a shout from one and all,
-    That shook the mountain’s rocky hall,
-       And made the welkin ring.
-
-    And gaily passed the wassail bowl,
-    While bards poured out the song of soul,
-    And martial music crowned the whole,
-       Time moved on pleasure’s wing.
-
-    But pleasure’s wing may sometimes lose
-    Its plumage bright, of varied hues,
-    And time grow dark with sorrow’s dews,
-       And cloak itself in care.
-
-    And eyes that wanton love inspire,
-    And blaze with light of fierce desire
-    Be quenched in floods of anguish dire,
-       And wither in despair!
-
-    Months rolled away, and while in war,
-    Llewelyn shone the leading star,
-    The knight and dame, in pleasure’s car,
-       Rolled rapidly along.
-
-    Guilt smiled upon their couch of down,
-    But o’er them was an angel’s frown,
-    Till their adult’ry, bolder grown,
-       Became a ribald song.
-
-    Llewelyn to his home returned,
-    Unconscious of his wrong, and burn’d
-    To meet the welcome he had earned
-       In glory’s sanguine field.
-
-    Cold was the heart he thought his own,
-    And colder had his welcome grown,
-    And on his forehead sat a frown,
-       Which half his fears revealed.
-
-    Unransomed to his Saxon home,
-    With promises of gifts to come,
-    Southward he bade De Breos roam,
-       And gave him friendly grasp.
-
-    The lady wept, Llewelyn smiled,
-    “Yield not, sweet wife, to sorrow wild,
-    For friendship is a feeling mild;
-       Her hand De Breos clasp.”
-
-    The Knight departed on his steed,
-    With twenty horsemen for his need,
-    To guard him over mount and mead,
-       To fair Montgomory.
-
-    But, when he saw the Knight depart,
-    Full jealous grew Llewelyn’s heart,
-    “Oh can dissimulation’s dart
-       Live in Johanna’s eye?”
-
-    Dark rumours reached his tortured ear,
-    He gazed upon his lady near,
-    And vengeance whispered “Chieftain, here
-       Must the foul spoiler die.”
-
-    A month had scarcely rolled away,
-    When to the Knight, so proud and gay,
-    Predestined for revenge’s prey
-       He sent a Herald light.
-
-    With soothing speech, and present rare,
-    And invitation to repair
-    With speed of horse, and heedful care,
-       To Aber’s Castle bright.
-
-    The Herald well De Breos knew,
-    On wings of guilty love he flew,
-    His foul dishonour to renew
-       With great Llewelyn’s dame.
-
-    But fatal was the meeting now,
-    Llewelyn knit his dreadful brow,
-    His angry blood began to glow,
-       And in his eye was flame.
-
-    “Down with the slave to dungeon dark!
-    Disgrace to knighthood, hear and mark!
-    Upon the gibbet, cold and stark,
-       To-morrow shalt thou hang.
-
-    “No more to whisper, fawn and lie—
-    No more to gaze with wanton eye,
-    No more to mix with chivalry,
-       Or hear its martial clang.”
-
-    Johanna knows not of the fate
-    That on her paramour doth wait;
-    But e’er the sun through heaven’s gate
-       Rolls forth to gild the sea;
-
-    Three taps upon her chamber door,
-    Hath roused her from her dreams of yore,
-    And stern upon her rush-strewn floor
-       Llewelyn doth she see.
-
-    He seized her by the raven hair
-    “What wouldst thou give, my lady fair.
-    To see that Knight, so debonair,
-       De Breos, once again?”
-
-    “Strong Aber’s castle which we dwell in,
-    Wales, fair England, and Llewelyn,
-    All I’d give to see my Gwilym,
-       But all I wish in vain.”
-
-    He dragged her from her secret bower,
-    While thunder on his brow did lower,
-    And pointed to the falcon tower,
-       “Behold, false dame,” he cried,
-
-    “Behold once more the traitor fell,
-    On gallows hung, while fiends in hell
-    Are shouting forth his passing knell.”
-       The lady looked—and died.
-
-The road from Aber to Bangor is replete with interesting scenery.  The
-mountains assume a dark and gloomy grandeur, half clad in rolling
-vapours, which at intervals reveal their black and purple forms, their
-barren summits and deep hollows, to the eye.  Towering above them all,
-Benclog rises conspicuous, into whose threatening gorge the road to Capel
-Curig winds, like a snake venturing into some monster’s jaws which
-appears ready to devour it.  Upon the right, the shores of Anglesea, with
-its luxuriant woods, are seen stretching down to the Menai, and agreeably
-diversify the scene.  Before us rose the lofty towers of Penrhyn Castle,
-with Port Penrhyn and its shipping in the distance.  Altogether, the
-prospect is glorious, and the finest effects I ever saw produced by
-mountain scenery are continually varying here; for, however bright the
-day may be upon the straights, and along their shores, the Canaervonshire
-mountains are generally half concealed by mists, upon which the sunbeams
-fall, causing them to assume countless hues of the most brilliant nature,
-which contrast finely with the ponderous forms round which they play in
-never ceasing variety.
-
-Near the spot where the London road branches off from the Chester, is the
-grand entrance to Penrhyn Castle, the property of G. H. D. Pennant Esq.
-The lodge is a beautiful specimen of substantial architecture; it is
-protected by a corresponding gateway, massive and imposing.  The park
-wall extends circularly seven miles, and is thirteen feet high.  To
-describe the magnificence of the interior of the castle I feel would
-prove a vain effort, and I earnestly recommend all tourists who take this
-route not to quit the neighbourhood without seeing it, or they will be
-reproached for slighting one of the grandest treats old Cambria can
-afford them.
-
-
-
-BANGOR.
-
-
-This town derives its name from Ban Cor, which means the high choir.
-
-We stopped at the Penrhyn Arms, a most commodious inn, which is capable,
-it is said, of making up one hundred beds nightly.  It occupies a
-commanding situation, and from the back premises embraces a noble
-prospect—the straights, the shore of Anglesea, the bay of Beaumauris,
-Penrhyn Castle, Puffin Island, Paenman Mawr, and the Great Orme’s Head,
-with the ocean in the distance.
-
-There are other excellent inns in the town, namely the Castle, the
-Liverpool arms, and the Albion: the latter, kept by Hughs, is extremely
-comfortable, and the landlord civil and obliging, as I most willingly
-testify from experience.  There is no place in Wales so well calculated
-for a tourist to make his head quarters as Bangor.  The various spots he
-may visit by appropriating a day to each, would supply him with
-gratification for a month at least.
-
-
-
-THE CATHEDRAL
-
-
-was founded by Maelgwn Gwynedd, King of Wales, of whom I have had
-occasion to speak before, as the patron of Taliesin, the celebrated Welsh
-bard.
-
-The original edifice, which was erected in 525, was destroyed in 1071,
-and rebuilt shortly after, but was again reduced to ruins by Owen
-Glyndwr, and for ninety years was neglected, until Bishop Dean restored
-the choir, and the body of the tower was rebuilt by Bishop Skeffington,
-in 1532, which still remains in a perfect state of preservation.  The
-free school was founded in 1557, by Dr. Jeffry Glynn, upon the site of an
-ancient parish church, built by King Edgar, within about 400 yards of the
-present cathedral, and is considered an excellent preparatory seminary
-for Oxford and Cambridge.
-
-The remains of an ancient castle, built by Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester,
-in the reign of Henry II, are still visible upon a rock opposite to the
-free school, and some pieces of scoria, found on the spot, lead us to
-suppose arrows were manufactured there.  At the back of the friar’s
-school is another hill, and on the top of it are the remains of a British
-encampment.
-
-The town, within the last twenty years, has been extended to nearly four
-times its original magnitude, and possesses an appearance of cleanliness
-particularly gratifying.  The London mail passes to and fro every day, as
-does the Chester and Liverpool; and two daily coaches also start for
-London, one to Chester and Liverpool, two to Caernarvon, and a mail to
-Pwllheli.  The great lion of Bangor is
-
-
-
-THE MENAI BRIDGE.
-
-
-The principal opening between the supporting pyramids is 560 feet in
-breadth, through which the vessels pass with all their canvass set,
-without the least danger of their masts touching the overhanging bridge.
-There are four stone arches upon the Anglesea side, and three upon the
-Carnaervon, which complete the road way, and have each a span of fifty
-feet.  The length of the bridge is 800 feet, and its height is 100 feet
-above the surface of the Menai at high water.  The weight of the bridge
-and its suspending chains, between the pyramids, is six hundred and
-thirty-nine tons, nineteen hundred and nine pounds; and that of the
-ironwork from one extremity of the chains to the other is estimated at
-2130 tons, 1800 consisting of wrought, and three hundred and thirty of
-cast iron.
-
-The first stone of this astonishing work was laid by W. A. Provis Esq.,
-on the 10th August, 1820; and on the 20th April, 1825, the first main
-chain was thrown across the strait.  This important step being completed,
-three of the workmen, in the height of their enthusiasm, ventured to walk
-along the chain from pyramid to pyramid; and a cobbler no less daring and
-enthusiastic, seated himself in the centre of the curve, and, while
-suspended at the fearful height, with sky above and the deep water of the
-strait gliding beneath him, drove the last sparable into one of those
-convenient comforts called clogs.
-
-The view from the centre of the bridge beggars description.  Waving
-woods, barren precipices, distant mountains, Bangor and Beaumauris,
-Penrhyn Castle, Paenman Mawr, the Great Orme’s Head, the ocean, and the
-strait, are objects that dazzle and astonish from the exquisite beauty of
-their natural arrangement.
-
-My task is done.  I have taken leave of my phrenological friend; the
-steam boat is dropping slowly to Garth point to take in passengers for
-Liverpool; and I must now quit this lovely land—never perhaps to see it
-more.  But let me hope the sketches I have given of its various charms
-will induce others to take the path which I have pursued with so much
-pleasure.  It leads through the most interesting portion of the country.
-For the artist, there is an inexhaustible store of beauty.  The geologist
-and mineralogist will find the lore they thirst for, in almost every hill
-and valley, through which they pass.  The smoke-dried citizen may have
-the London _blacks_ blown from his garments by the healthful mountain
-breeze, and drink huge draughts of the pure air until he feels
-intoxicated with pleasure, while he is enabled to supply himself cheaply
-with a valuable stock of delightful recollections that will enable him,
-at any time, to raise a visionary paradise around him—to banish painful
-thoughts; for, in fine, pain must give place to pleasure, gloom to
-sunshine, blue devils to hilarity, and sickness to invigorating health,
-in the enchanting principality of NORTH WALES.
-
-
-
-
-APPENDIX.
-
-
-SNOWDON
-
-
-FIRST received its name from the Saxons, and signifies a mountain covered
-with snow.  It was held sacred by the Ancient Britons, who believed that
-those who slept upon it became inspired.  The perpendicular height of the
-mountain is 1190 yards, and, as the state of the atmosphere hindered me
-from attempting the ascent, I have selected the accounts of the most
-celebrated tourists for the benefit of those who may be more fortunate
-than I was.
-
-
-
-MR. PENNANT’S ASCENT.
-
-
-“Ascend above _Cwm Brwynog_ a very deep bottom.  In the course of our
-ascent, saw on the left above the Cwm, _Moel y Cynghorion_, or the Hill
-of Council; pass through _Bwlch Maes-y-cwm_, and skirt the side of
-Snowdon, till we reach _Bwlch Cwm Brwynog_, where the ascent becomes very
-difficult on account of its vast steepness; people here usually quit
-their horses.  We began a toilsome march, clambering among the rocks.  On
-the left were the precipices over _Brwynog_ with _Llyn Du yr Arddwy_ at
-their foot; on our right, were those over the small lakes _Llyn Glâs_,
-_Llyn y Naddroed_, and _Llyn Côch_.  The last is the highest on this side
-the mountain; and on whose margins, we were told that in fairy days,
-those diminutive gentry kept their revels.
-
-“This space between precipice and precipice formed a short and no very
-agreeable isthmus, till we reached a verdant expanse which gave us some
-respite before we laboured up another series of broken crags; after these
-is a second smooth tract, which reaches almost to the summit, and by way
-of pre-eminence is styled _Y Wyddfa_, or The Conspicuous.  It rises
-almost to a point, or at least there is but room for a circular wall of
-loose stones, within which travellers usually take their repast.
-
-“The view from this exalted situation is unbounded.  In a former tour I
-saw from it the hills of Yorkshire, part of the north of England,
-Scotland, and Ireland; a plain view of the Isle of Man, and that of
-Anglesey lay extended like a map beneath me with every rill visible.  I
-took much pains to see this prospect to advantage, sat up at a farm on
-the west till about twelve, and walked up the whole way.  The night was
-remarkably fine and starry: towards morn, the stars faded away, and left
-a short interval of darkness, which soon dispersed by the dawning of the
-day.  The body of the sun appeared most distinct with the rotundity of
-the moon, before it rose high enough to render its beams too brilliant
-for our sight.  The sea which bounded the western part was gilt by its
-rays, first in slender streaks, at length glowing with redness.  The
-prospect was disclosed like the gradual drawing up of a curtain in a
-theatre.  We saw more and more till the heat became so powerful as to
-attract the mists from the various lakes, which in a slight degree
-obscured the prospect.  The shadow of the mountain was flung many miles,
-and shewed its bicapitated form; the _Wyddfa_ making one, _Crib y
-Dysdyll_ the other head.  I counted this time between twenty and thirty
-lakes either in this county, or Merionethshire.  The day proved so
-excessively hot, that my journey cost me the skin of the lower part of my
-face before I reached the resting place.”
-
-At another visit, the same celebrated traveller remarks—“On this day, the
-sky was obscured very soon after I got up; a vast mist enveloped the
-whole circuit of the mountain; the prospect down was horrible.  It gave
-an idea of numbers of abysses concealed by a thick smoke, furiously
-circulating round us.  Very often a gust of wind formed an opening in the
-clouds, which gave a fine and distinct view of lake and valley.
-Sometimes, they opened only in one place, at others in many at once,
-exhibiting a most strange and perplexing view of water, fields, rocks or
-chasms, in fifty different places.  They then closed at once, and left us
-involved in darkness; in a short time, they would separate again, and fly
-in wild eddies round the middle of the mountains, and expose in parts
-both tops and bases clear to our view.  We descended from this various
-scene with great reluctance, but before we reached our horses a thunder
-storm overtook us.  Its rolling among the mountains was inexpressibly
-awful, the rain uncommonly heavy.  We remounted our horses, and gained
-the bottom with great hazard.  The little rills which on our ascent
-trickled along the gullies on the sides of the mountain, were now swelled
-into torrents, and we and our steeds passed with the utmost risk of being
-swept away by these sudden waters.  At length, we arrived safe, yet
-sufficiently wet and weary, to our former quarters.
-
-“It is very seldom that the traveller gets a propitious day to ascend
-Snowdon; for often when it appears clear, it becomes suddenly and
-unexpectedly enveloped in mist by its attraction of clouds, which just
-before seemed remote and at great heights.  At times, I have observed
-them lower to half their heights, and notwithstanding they have been
-dispersed to the right and to the left, yet they have met from both sides
-and united to involve the summit in one great obscurity.  The quantity of
-water which flows from the lakes of Snowdonia is very considerable; so
-much, that I doubt not but collectively they would exceed the waters of
-the Thames before it meets the conflux of the ocean.”
-
-
-
-MR. BINGLEY’S ASCENT.
-
-
-This industrious and persevering traveller observes: “I had made a
-determination soon after I came into Wales, that I would ascend Snowdon
-by all the tracks that are usually pointed out to travellers.”  This
-gentleman had already accomplished the task in three instances, his
-routes being first from Dôlbadarn Castle, secondly from Llanberis, and
-thirdly from Llyn Cwellyn.  The fourth, the description of which we are
-about to borrow, as more descriptive than any of the others, is the route
-from Bedd-gelert.  He says: “The distance from Bedd-gelert to the summit,
-being reckoned not less than six miles, and a lady being one of our
-number, it was thought most eligible for her to ride as far as she could
-without danger, and for the rest to walk the whole of the way.  In this
-manner therefore, we set out, commencing our _mountain_ journey by
-turning to the right, from the Caernarvon road, at the distance of about
-two miles and a half from the village.  We left the horse at a cottage,
-about half way up, from whence taking a bottle of milk to mix with some
-rum that we had brought along with us, we continued our route over a
-series of pointed and craggy rocks.
-
-“Stopping at different times to rest, we enjoyed to the utmost the
-prospects that by degrees were opening round us.  Caernarvon and the Isle
-of Anglesey, aided by the brightness of the morning, were seen to great
-advantage; and Cwellyn below us, shaded by the vast Mynydd Mawr, with
-Castell Cidwu at its foot, appeared extremely beautiful.
-
-“In ascending the mountains, which from below seemed of immense height,
-they began now to appear beneath us; the lakes and valleys were more
-exposed, and all the little rills and mountain streams by degrees became
-visible to us, like silver lines intersecting the hollows around.
-Towards the upper part of the mountain, we passed over a tremendous ridge
-of rock, called _Clawdd Côch_, the Red Ridge.  This narrow pass, not more
-than ten or twelve feet across, and two or three hundred yards in length
-was so steep that the eye reached on each side, down the whole extent of
-the mountain.  And I am persuaded that in some parts of it if a person
-held a large stone in each hand, and let them both fell at once, each
-might roll above a quarter of a mile, and thus when they stopped they
-might be more than half a mile asunder.
-
-“The lady who accompanied us, to my great surprise, passed the ridge
-without the least apparent signs of fear or trepidation.  There is no
-danger whatever in passing Clawdd Côch in the day-time, but I must
-confess that I should by no means like to venture along this tract in the
-night, as many do who have never seen it.  If the moon shone very bright,
-we might, it is true, escape unhurt, but a dark cloud coming suddenly
-over would certainly expose us to much danger.  Many instances have
-occurred of persons who having passed over it in the night were so
-terrified at seeing it by daylight the next morning, that they have not
-dared to return the same way, but have gone a very circuitous round by
-Bettws.  I was informed that one gentleman had been so much alarmed, that
-he crawled over it back again on his hands and knees.  In the hollow on
-the left of the ascent are four small pools, called _Llyn Côch_, the red
-pool; _Llyn Glâs_, the blue pool; _Llyn y Nadroedd_, the adder’s pool;
-and _Llyn Ffynnon y Gwâs_, the servant’s pool.
-
-“Soon after we had passed Clawdd Côch, we became immersed in light
-clouds, till we arrived at the summit of the mountain, when a single
-gleam of sunshine, which lasted but for a moment, presented us with the
-majestic scenery on the west of our station.  It served only, however, to
-tantalize our hopes; for a smart gust of wind again obscured us in
-clouds.  We now sheltered ourselves from the cold, under some of the
-projecting rocks near the top, and ate our dinners, watching with anxiety
-the dark shades in the clouds, in hopes that a separation might take
-place, and that we should be once more delighted with a sight of the
-grand objects around us.  We did not watch in vain, for the clouds by
-degrees cleared away, and left us at full liberty to admire the numerous
-beauties in this expansive scene.  The steep rock of _Clogwn y Garnedd_,
-whose dreadful precipices are some of them above two hundred yards in
-perpendicular height, and the whole rock, a series of precipices, was an
-object which first struck one of my companions with terror, and he
-exclaimed almost involuntarily,
-
-                How fearful
-    And dizzy ’tis to cast one’s eye so low!
-    The crows and choughs that wing the mid-way air
-    Scarce shew so gross as beetles.
-
-“We now stood on a point which commanded the whole dome of the sky.  The
-prospects below, each of which we had before considered separately as a
-grand scene, were now only miniature parts of the immense landscape.  We
-had around us such a variety of mountains, valleys, lakes, and streams,
-each receding behind the ether, and bounded only by the far distant
-horizon, that the eye almost strained itself with looking upon them.
-These majestic prospects were soon shut from our sight by the gathering
-clouds, which now began to close in much heavier than they had done
-before; and it was in vain that we waited near an hour for another
-opening.
-
-“We were, therefore, at length obliged to descend, in despair of being
-any more gratified with these sublime prospects.  We again passed Clawd
-Côch, and soon afterwards, turning to the left, descended into the
-mountain vale, called _Cwm Llan_.  We followed the course of a stream,
-which flows from thence into Llyn y Dinas, in Nant Gwynant.  This little
-rivulet entertained us much in its descent, being in many places thrown
-over low rocks, forming small but sometimes elegant cascades.  After a
-walk of two hours, we arrived in Nant Hwynan, the vale that I had
-traversed with so much pleasure a day or two before; and passing by Llyn
-y Dinas, and Dinas Emrys, soon afterwards reached Bedd-gelert, not a
-little fatigued with our mountain ramble.
-
-“I observed near a cottage in Cwm Llan, that several children were
-employed in gathering the berries of the mountain ash.  On inquiring of
-the guide to what purpose this was done, he informed me that the Welsh
-people brew from them a liquor which they call _Dïod Grïafol_.  This, he
-said, was done by merely crushing the berries, and putting water to them,
-which, after remaining a fortnight, is drawn off for use.  The flavour,
-as I understood him, was somewhat like that of perry.”
-
-
-
-ASCENT FROM DOLBADARN.
-
-
-This account is taken from a small useful publication, entitled “Guide to
-Bangor, Beaumaris, and Snowdonia,” by Mr. John Smith, of Liverpool.  The
-narrative is written by a friend of Mr. Smith, who, the latter informs
-us, was a companion of the late lamented Belzoni, and the period when the
-ascent was performed was the summer of 1825.
-
-“It was about half-past twelve when we left our inn at Dôlbadarn, and I
-think a more lovely morning we could not be favoured with: nature did
-indeed seem at rest; not a cloud appeared to move, and a bright and
-nearly full moon, which had passed the meridian, seemed as if waiting to
-light us on our way.  Our party consisted of three of the ladies, (the
-fourth not having strength for the task) Mr. M., myself, two gentlemen
-who joined us at Dôlbadarn, our guide, and his faithful dog.  The ladies
-were furnished with a stout pony each, but the gentlemen preferred
-climbing on foot the steep ascent, and I believe, before they returned,
-repented heartily having done so.  The guide was equipped with a leathern
-belt, to which was buckled a tin vessel containing water, and a staff
-which seemed well worn with the hard service in which it was employed.
-
-“We proceeded across a small rivulet a short distance from the inn, and
-soon entered on a kind of mountain horse-path, composed of loose slate
-and stones, of which our pedestrians soon began to be weary.  After
-ascending this about a mile, we arrived at a rough fence of turf and
-stones, where the road wound round the side of a mountain, and entered a
-kind of defile, through which we had to proceed.  Here our guide desired
-us to look back at the view beneath us, and when we did so, our feelings
-and expressions of delight and astonishment were general.  Below us, the
-lake of Llanberis lay stretched like an immense mirror in the shade, with
-one bright silvery ray resting on its glassy surface, in which part of
-the steep mountains that surrounded it appeared reflected.  To attempt to
-describe the beautiful and varying tints on those mountains would be as
-useless a task, as the most vivid colours would be foolishly employed in
-trying to represent them.  In the distance and on our right, Dôlbadarn
-tower was just visible at the head of the lower lake, and on our left the
-inn, surrounded with the only trees in the neighbourhood, formed a
-striking object: we reflected with pleasure, as we looked towards it,
-that the lady whose health would not allow her to accompany us, was there
-enjoying a refreshing sleep, and would, when awake, be anxiously waiting
-for our return, and to hear the various accounts we should give of our
-expedition.
-
-“We again turned our faces towards Snowdon, on the same road I have
-before mentioned, and the mild, yet awful and magnificent scene before us
-afforded abundant themes for conversation and remark.  In three or four
-places light fleecy clouds, edged with silver by the moonbeam, and which
-at first appeared resting on the sides of the mountains, now seemed to be
-slowly rolling down their steep sides, and generally mixing with the deep
-gloom of the valleys below us.  Though surrounded by nature’s grandest
-works, I fancy some of the party were tired even here, as many inquiries
-had been made relative to the distance we had still to proceed.  However,
-the guide, suddenly stopping, informed us we were now at the ‘half-way
-house;’ but no house was to be seen, and on looking round for it, we
-could perceive nothing but a small stream which trickled down the steep,
-and which replenished our guide’s water vessel, which had been emptied
-some time before by the continual demands upon it. {384}
-
-“We had proceeded now about three miles, and left our slate road by
-passing through a small wicket which opened on the heath, near which the
-sagacity of one of the ponys surprised us.  The poor animal was blind,
-and on arriving within three feet of the wicket, which was open, it drew
-up, and would not proceed till led through by the bridle.  One would
-fancy it had almost numbered its paces.  It is surprising with what
-safety and agility these animals walk over the steep paths and stones
-they have to pass; and the guide assured us that he had been in the habit
-of going with travellers nearly twenty years, and never knew a single
-accident occasioned by them.
-
-“The soft heath we were now passing was a relief to our feet, though it
-was so steep that we were sometimes obliged to wait to regain breath.  At
-this time, we were on the top of a hill, which we fancied was the last we
-had to mount before the peak of Snowdon, and willingly thought the summit
-of the bold front before us was to be the end of our journey.  Thence the
-way was over a kind of ridge, perhaps forty yards wide, one side of which
-was perpendicular for several hundred feet, and the other so steep that
-no one could stop or steady himself upon it.  Daylight now began to
-appear, to show us more distinctly the steeps we were amongst; and,
-though we well knew the breadth of the ridge was such that there could be
-no danger, yet I am sure we all felt that unpleasant sensation which few
-can approach the edge of a precipice without experiencing in some degree.
-Tremendous gusts of wind, too, which passed the long heath with a
-singular whizzing noise, giving warning of their approach, and almost
-blowing us off our feet as they assailed us, did not make any of us feel
-easier.
-
-“However, we went boldly on without accident, except a hat and bonnet
-blowing off, which were fortunately recovered, and nearly reached the top
-of what we had all taken to be our journey’s end, when the guide
-exclaimed, pointing to a high peak before us, “There is Snowdon top;” and
-we had the mortification to find that we had still a climbing of
-three-quarters of a mile before us.  This powerfully reminded us of a
-couplet by Pope:
-
-    ‘The increasing prospect tires our wandering eyes,
-    Hills peep o’er hills, and alps on alps arise.’
-
-A few minutes more brought us to a small inclosure of stones, where the
-horses were put up, as they could proceed no further, and now the ladies
-were obliged to foot it.  Here one of the gentlemen gave in, declaring he
-would proceed no further, and laid down on the moss, saying he would wait
-our return.  Perhaps a little rest was of service to him, for he
-afterwards joined us on the top of Snowdon.  The road here is along the
-edge of the steep side of the mountain, which is almost perpendicular,
-and is broken with large fragments of slate, stone, and spar, of various
-kinds, to the very summit, which to our great joy, we at last attained
-about half-past four o’clock.  Had we waited for months we could not have
-had a more beautiful time; as the guide expressed himself, ‘Snowdon has
-its days, and this is one of them.’  We sat down; in a few minutes the
-moon, which had so favoured us, declined behind one of the western
-mountains, and almost at the same instant the red tints on the eastern
-horizon foretold the approach of the king of day, the effect of whose
-rising on such a scene as that below and around us, was the most
-magnificent sight we ever beheld.”
-
-The descent is not related by the writer of the above description.  I
-understand, however, it was merrily performed by all the party, whose
-fatigue in the expedition well qualified them to feel the luxury of a few
-hours’ repose at Dôlbadarn.
-
-
-
-PROSPECT FROM THE SUMMIT.
-
-
-In the foregoing descriptions by three of our most respectable tourists,
-sufficient is contained to afford the traveller a tolerably good idea of
-the nature of the ascent to the top of Snowdon; and we shall only add the
-subjoined animated description of a view from its summit, by the author
-of the “Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature.”
-
-“After climbing over masses of crags and rocks, we ascended the peak of
-Snowdon.  Arrived at its summit, a scene presented itself, magnificent
-beyond the powers of language!  Indeed, language is indigent and impotent
-when it would presume to sketch scenes on which the Great Eternal has
-placed his matchless finger with delight.  Faint are thy broad and deep
-delineations, immortal Salvator Rosa!  Powerless and feeble are your
-inspirations, genius of Thompson, Virgil, and Lucretius!
-
-“From this point are seen five-and-twenty lakes.—Seated on one of the
-crags, it was long before the eye, unaccustomed to measure such
-elevations, could accommodate itself to scenes so admirable:—the whole
-appearing as if there had been a war of the elements; and as if we were
-the only inhabitants of the globe permitted to contemplate the ruins of
-the world.  Rocks and mountains, which when observed from below, bear all
-the evidence of sublimity, when viewed from the summit of Snowdon, are
-blended with others as dark, as rugged, and as elevated as themselves;
-the whole resembling the swellings of an agitated ocean.
-
-“The extent of this prospect appears almost unlimited.  The four kingdoms
-are seen at once: Wales, England, Scotland, and Ireland! forming the
-finest panorama the empire can boast.  The circle begins with the
-mountains of Cumberland and Westmorland; those of Ingleborough and
-Penygent, in the county of York, and the hills of Lancashire follow; then
-are observed the counties of Chester, Flint, Denbigh, and a portion of
-Montgomeryshire.  Nearly the whole of Merioneth succeeds; and drawing a
-line with the eye along the diameter of the circle, we take in the
-regions stretching from the triple crown of Cader Idris to the sterile
-crags of Carnedds-David and Llewellyn.  Snowdon, rising in the centre,
-appears as if he could touch the south with his right hand, and the north
-with his left.  ‘Surely,’ thought Colonna, ‘Cæsar sat upon these crags
-when he formed the daring conception of governing the world!’
-
-“From Cader Idris the eye, pursuing the orbit of the bold geographical
-line, glances over the bay of Cardigan, and reposes for a while on the
-summit of the Rivals.—After observing the indented shores of
-Caernarvonshire, it travels over a long line of ocean, till in the
-extremity of the horizon the blue mountains of Wicklow terminate the
-perspective.  Those mountains gradually sink along the coast till they
-are lost to the eye; which ranging along the expanse, at length, as weary
-of the journey, reposes on the Island of Man, and the distant mountains
-of Scotland.  The intermediate space is occupied by the sides and summits
-of mountains, hollow crags, masses of rocks, the towers of Caernarvon,
-the fields of Anglesea, with woods, lakes, and glens, scattered in
-magnificent confusion.
-
-“A scene like this commands our feelings to echo, as it were, in unison
-to its grandeur and sublimity.  The thrill of astonishment, and the
-transport of imagination seem to contend for the mastery, and nerves are
-touched that never thrilled before.  We seem as if our former existence
-were annihilated, and as a new epoch were commenced.  Another world opens
-upon us; and an unlimited orbit appears to display itself as a theatre
-for our ambition.”
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-
-
-Page 266, line 5.
-
-
-Among other ceremonies performed in the preparations for knighthood, the
-candidate went into a bath, which was symbolical of the purity of the
-soul.  He was then placed in a bed, which signified the rest he was
-hereafter to enjoy in Paradise; and when he had slept, the Neophyte was
-clothed in a shirt, which white dress betokened the purity of his new
-character.—_See Miles’s History of Chivalry_.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-
-
-Page 367.
-
-
-    “The lady looked—and died.”
-
-According to poetical justice she certainly should have died.  But the
-lady recovered, and her good natured lord not only forgave her this slip,
-but many others of a similar nature, and for her _earthly virtues_ had
-her proclaimed a _heavenly saint_, after she had paid the debt of nature.
-
-
-
-
-INDEX.
-
-
-Aber, the ‘Bulkely Arms,’ at, 360; scenery near, 360, 367.
-Aber Glas Llynn, bridge at, 237.
-Abernodwydd, brook of, 114.
-Actor, adventures related by an, 34.
-Alphabet, Welsh, power of some letters of the, 5.
-Appendix, 385.
-Ardudwy, pass of, 187.
-Arran Fowddwy mountain, 150.
-Arrenig Vawr, hill of, 156, 187.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Bala, scenery near, 145; inn at, 151, 157; Llyn Tegid, 155, 159; the town
-of, 159; Tommen-y-Bala, _ib._
-Bardsey Island, bards of, 186.
-Barmouth, the ‘Commercial Inn’ at, 81; town of, 183.
-Beddgelert, the ‘Goat Inn’ at, 240; the grave of Llewellyn’s hound,
-Gelert, 241.
-Bettwys-y-Coed, iron bridge near, 293.
-Birmingham, halt at, 21.
-Butler, Lady Elinor, and Miss Ponsonby, their residence described, 97.
-Bwlch Tyddiad, romantic scenery of, 207.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Cader Idris, altitude of, 171; traditions of, 172; views of, 179, 209.
-Caernarvonshire chain of hills described, 185, 210.
-Capel Curig, chapel, etc. at, 286, 291.
-Car, jaunting, in Wales, 163.
-Cardigan Bay, scenery and rivers of, 219, 233.
-Carreg-y-Saeth, 191; its summit visited, 209.
-Celylin Point and Bay, 181.
-Chirk and the Ceriog river, 57.
-— castle, 68.
-Closs, John, story of and monument to, 282.
-Conway, the ‘Castle Inn’ at, 324; venerable buildings at, 325;
-description of the castle, 326; old customs at, 331; muscle pearl
-fishery, 333; ford at Dynas Gonway, 334.
-— river, scenery of the, 293, 310, 323, 331.
-Corwen, ‘the Welsh Harp’ and ‘Owen Glyndwr’ inns, 138; church and
-monuments, 139; new road, 161.
-Crafnant, the residence of Mr. Owen, 190.
-Cricaeth Castle and Promontory, 218.
-Cwym Bychan, Llyn-y, 191; traditional story, 192.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Dale, Ann, 124.
-Dee, vale of the, 86, 96, 121, 129; the river described, 150.
-Dinas Bran Castle, Llangollen, 114.
-— Gorten, _see_ Gorten.
-Dolbadarn Castle, and Llyns Peris and Padarn, 262.
-— legend of, 264, 279.
-Dolgelly, vale of, 165, 171, 173; town of, 173; best inns at, 175.
-Doluwcheogryd, the residence of Roland Williams Esq. 179.
-Dolwyddelan castle, 287.
-Drwstynrnt vale, 164, inn of, _ib._
-Dunchurch, the inn at, 20.
-Dwyryd, valley of the river, 230.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Edeyrnion, vale of, 149.
-Edward I. his wars in Wales, and strongholds built by, 215, 218, 328.
-Einion, gallantry of Dafydd-ap Ivan-ap, 215.
-— Howel-ap-, 109, 112.
-Eliseg, pillar of, 128.
-Ellesmere canal, and aqueduct at Chirk, 58.
-Elphin, the Consolation of, a poem, by Taliesin, 323.
-Evans, Hugh, story of, 166.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Festiniog, inns of the village of, 231.
-Fron Fawr, the mountain of, 126.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Geirionydd, Llyn, antiquities at, 322.
-Giant’s Nightcap, tradition of the stone so named, 262.
-Giraldus, Topography of Wales, 288.
-Glan Mawddach, loch at, 180.
-Gloddarth, the mansion of Lady Mostyn Champneys, 334.
-Glossary, Welsh, 6.
-Glyndwr, Owen, his manorial possessions, 129: War Tramp of, 131;
-traditions of, 134, 174, 178; warfare of, 215.
-Gôch Owen, his imprisonment, 263; tomb of Griffith Gôch, 293; Howel
-Coetmore, 319.
-Gorten Dinas, encampment on, 186; traditions relative to, 187.
-Griffith, Mary, or ‘the Deserted,’ 59.
-Gwarine, Fitz, or the family of Warrenne, 51.
-Gwrydd, public-house at, 251; romantic scenery at, 252.
-Gwydir castle, estate of Willoughby d’Eresby, 308.
-— chapel, built by the Wynne family, 315.
-Gwynant Llyn, and Llyn Dinas described, 247, 248.
-Gwynedd, Prince Owain, 290.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Harlech Castle, 214; description of, 215; besieged by the parliament
-forces, 192, 207; the ‘Blue Lion’ 283; beauty of the scenery near, 218.
-Herbert, Sir Richard, 216.
-Hill, Lord, pillar to, 28.
-Howel Coetmore, 319.
-— Voel, ode by, 263.
-— ap-Eynion, 109, 112.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Idris, _see_ Cader Idris.
-—, and Dyn Ddu, giant brethren, the legend of, 256.
-Idwal, Llyn, and cleft of Twll Du, 290.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Jones’s Edward, ‘Bardic Museum,’ 171.
-— Rev. Mr. his escape at Penmaen Mawr, 358.
-Jorweth, Llewellyn-ap-, tomb of, 319, 325.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Llyn Tegai parish, 291.
-Llanberis church and tombs, 253, 280, 281.
-Llanderfell, view from the bridge of, 150.
-Llandrillo, village of, 148.
-Llandysilio Hall, 132.
-Llangollen, vale of, 88; ‘Aqueduct Tavern’ near, 87; inns at, 93; female
-club at, 101.
-Llanthyn, the estate of Sir W. W. Wynne, 164.
-Llanrwst, ‘Three Eagles’ inn at, 310; plays at the Town Hall, 311; town
-of, described, 310, 321.
-Llewellyn, Prince of Wales, 263, 361.
-— and the captive knight, 362.
-Lloyd, Griffith, the rector of Llanrwst, 321.
-Llugwy river, 291.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Madoc, port, slate exported from, 232.
-Madock, William Alexander, Esq. 232; his mansion, Tan-y-allt, 232, 235.
-— Miss, mansion of, 177.
-Maentwrog, village of, 218, 219; the shoemaker of, 220; the ‘Oakley arms’
-at, 221; the Maentwrog inn at, 230.
-Mallow, Mick, story of, 102.
-Mawddach, river, 173, 178; embouchure of, 183.
-Menai strait, the, 361, 368.
-Merionethshire mountains, 230, 235.
-Minstrel Fay, the ‘My Fawny Vychan,’ 108.
-Moel Siabod, view from, 247, 286.
-Mortimer, Roger, Earl of Wigmore, 70.
-Mostyn Hall, the mansion of the Hon. E. M. L. Mostyn, 185, 188.
-Myttwn, General, besieges the castle of Harlech, 192, 200.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Nannau park, 171, 178.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Ogo-ap-Shenkin, cave of, 295; adventure of Jordan-ap-Jordan at, 305.
-Ogwen, Llyn, and falls of Benclog, 287.
-Orme’s Head, the Great, the promontory described, 335.
-Owain, William, account of, 201, 217.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Pedestrians, fashionable, in Wales, 32.
-Pembroke, William Herbert, earl of, 215.
-Penmaen Bach, promontory of, 353.
-Penmaen Mawr, precipice of, 277; the pass, and modern road, 353; fearful
-accidents at, 358; ancient British camp near, 359.
-Penrhyn Castle, and Port Penrhyn, described, 368.
-Peveril family, the, 51.
-Phrenologist, adventure of a, 344, 351.
-Pistyl-y-Cain, and falls of the river Mawddach, 178.
-— Rhaidadr, waterfalls of, 69; _see_ Rhaiadr.
-Pont-y-Pair, bridge of the cauldron, 294.
-Powell’s History of North Wales, 288.
-Price, Mr. his estate and mansion of Rhewlas, 151, 155, 158, 160, his
-plantations, 161.
-Pwllhely, town of, 186.
-                                * * * * *
-Rhaiadr-y-Wennot, or Spout of the Swallow, 292.
-Rhaiadr-y-Parc Mawr, time to view the fall of, 322.
-Rhaiadr Du, cataract of, 177, 231.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Scott, Sir Walter, note to his Marmion, 179; quotation from, 352.
-Severn, river, Mountford bridge, etc. 31.
-Shrewsbury, and vicinity of the town, 29.
-Smuggler’s daughter, the, 335, 343.
-Snowdon and Snowdonia, 172, 286, 172, 240, 251, 360, 286; _see_ Appendix.
-Songs, etc.:—The Lament, 66; the Rose of Llangollen, 90; the Minstrel’s
-Knell, 115; Lines at Valle Crucis, 123; Farewell to fair Rewlas, 162;
-Farewell Hugh, handsome Hugh, 170; Witch of Cwm Bychan, 194, 196;
-dialogue, the Traveller, 227; Lines written at Aber Glas Llyn, 237; Llyn
-Gwynant, 249; Poem of Llewellyn and the Captive Knight, 362.
-Stag, the enchanted, a legend, 71.
-Stage-coach, society of a, 15.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Taliesin, the bard’s abode, 322; poem extant relative to, 323.
-Tan-y-Bwlch, mansion of W. G. Oakley Esq. 230.
-Tevi, river, 288.
-Traeth Mawr and Traeth bach, arms of the sea, 218, 232, 233.
-Trefriw, village of, 323.
-Tremadoc, the town of Madoc, 232, 234.
-Trifaen, crags of, 289.
-Trout fishing in Wales, 14, 145, 156, 222, 231, 252.
-Tudor-Trevor, family of, 109.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Valle Crucis, Abbey of, 121.
-Vaughan, Margaret, poems by, 320.
-— Sir R. W. Bart. estates of, 171, 178.
-Vortigern’s Hill, near Beddgelert, 247.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-Welshwomen, particulars relative to, 143, 149.
-Whiffler, Mr., an amateur traveller, 130.
-Wittington, village of, 48; the castle described, 50; church and tombs
-at, 54.
-Wnion, the river, 165, 173.
-Wolverhampton, the road to, 22.
-Wynne, account of the family of, 293, 309, 315, 316, 320, 325.
-Wynnstay, mansion of Sir Watkin W. Wynne, Bart., 85.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-                                   END.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-                                 LONDON:
-                    SCHULZE AND CO. 13, POLAND STREET.
-
-
-
-
-FOOTNOTES.
-
-
-{107}  THE FAIRY’S SERENADE.  (With an Accompaniment for the Pianoforte.)
-Arranged by W. FORDE.  _Allegretto_.  G. BENNETT.
-
-             [Picture: Music Score for The Fairy’s Serenade]
-
-    The breeze hath left the Berwyn hills,
-    The dew was on the flower;
-    The bee had sought his honey comb,
-    The bird was in his bower;
-    When swifter than the mountain gale,
-    On Alban steed I flew
-    My bee I sought your honey home;
-    My bird I flew to you.
-    My bee I sought your honey home;
-    My bird I flew to you.
-
-    My peerless steed is white with foam
-    And droops his arched neck;
-    The flood, the mountain, and the glen,
-    He crossed without a cheek.
-    Oh! listen while my harp I strike,
-    And rouse its sweetest tone;
-    And hear the language of a heart,
-    Which beats for you alone.
-
-    The breeze hath left the Berwyn hills,
-    The dew is on the flower;
-    And I must hie to fairy land,
-    Ere chimes the midnight hour.
-    Arise bright star of beauty rise,
-    And when from you I roam,
-    Send forth the lustre of your eyes
-    To light me to my home.
-
-{130}  BATTLE SONG.  (_Air_—“The Swan’s Note.”)  Arranged by W. FORDE.
-_Bold and expressive_.
-
-                  [Picture: Music score for Battle song]
-
-    March to the battle,
-    Drums loudly rattle,
-    Trumpets are braying,
-    Proud steeds are neighing,
-       And armour clashing,
-       While torrents dashing,
-          Loudly thunder down below.
-
-    Bright helms are glancing,
-    Gay plumes are dancing,
-                Brave hearts are beating,
-    For the death meeting;
-    And Freedom rallies,
-    Sons of the valleys,
-       Forward then and face the foe!
-       Scion said Father round us come,
-          Gather bare the sword and strike the blow.
-
-    From rock and heather,
-    Spring up together,
-       Fierce as the eagle,
-       Staunch as the beagle;
-    From the heart’s fountain,
-    Sons of the mountain,
-                Shout the war cry of Glyndoor!
-    England advances,
-    Proud of her lances,
-       Gallant and sightly,
-       Noble and knightly,
-    Wales frowns before her,
-    Death hovers o’er her—
-                Forward to the battle moor;—
-    Fate hath decreed ’em,
-    Victims to freedom;
-       And banners flying,
-       O’er dead and dying—
-          Wave for Cambria’s great Glyndoor!
-
-{143}  JENNY DAVIES.  (_Air_—“Llwyn-onn.”)  Arranged by W. FORDE.
-_Allegretto_.
-
-                 [Picture: Music score for Jenny Davies]
-
-       I’m call’d Jenny Davies,
-       The fairest of Ladies,
-    And dwell on the bank-side where primroses grow;
-       My cheeks are like cherries,
-       My lips sweet strawberries,
-    My eyes are as black as the wild mountain sloe.
-       My heart’s warm and tender,
-       My waist small and slender,
-    I bound o’er the hills like the young mountain row;
-       I’m blithesome and witty,
-       Then sure ’tis a pity,
-    That I for a husband should sight forth heigh ho!
-
-       With sighing and suing,
-       Young Arthur came wooing,
-    But he was too shy for a buxom young lass,
-       Then came handsome Harry,
-       Who press’d me to marry,
-    But he was too fond of his toilet and glass;
-       Then followed brave Rowland,
-       Who lives in the low-land,
-    But he was too rough for a delicate maid;
-          Sure, sure ’tis a pity,
-          A young girl so pretty,
-    Should sigh for a husband and pine in the shade.
-
-       Young Carlie abused me,
-       And sadly misused me,
-    He vow’d to be mine and ran off with Miss Jones;
-       And last came a Quaker,
-       A grave undertaker,
-    Who promis’d he’d soon make me bone of his bones;
-       But he late and early
-       Is peevish and surly,
-    No longer I smile, and to dance I’m afraid;
-          I can’t bear to choose him,
-          And yet if I lose him,
-    Perhaps, (Oh, my stars!) I shall die an old maid.
-
-{176}  MOUNTAIN MARY.  (_Air_—“Cader Idris.”)   Arranged by W. FORDE.
-_Allegretto_.
-
-                 [Picture: Music score for Mountain Mary]
-
-   The sun had gone down, and the monarch of mountains
-      Had robed his dark form in a mantle of cloud;
-   The primroses slept by the summer dried fountains,
-      And beauty’s own river seem’d dreaming aloud.
-   In the dale of the Hazel all nature seem’d weeping,
-      And mild was the moon-light that silver’d the grove;
-   But wakeful was morn flew my own mountain Mary,
-      To gladden my heart with the breathings of love.
-
-   She looked down to blush, from the gaze of her lover,
-      Her snowy lids veiling her heaven-blue eyes;
-   More sweet was her breath than the dew-sprinkled clover,
-      When morning first breaks through the gates of the skies.
-   The land-breeze sprang up, and my bark tripp’d her anchor,
-      Ah me, how we started to feel that fair wind,
-   “Remember,” she cried, “the dear dale of the Hazel
-      And poor mountain Mary left weeping behind.”
-
-   Far, far did I wander in climes hotly burning,
-      Till fortune repaid me with wealth in good store;
-   Then swift as a bird’s flight o’er high waves returning,
-      Our vessel was wafted to Abermaw’s shore.
-   With the speed of the roe-buck I flew to my Mary,
-      Joy’s tears from her eyes fell like midsummer rain;
-   And now in Dolgelley by wedlock united,
-      The world and its wealth shall ne’er part us again.
-
-{240}  See appendix.
-
-{250}  The Blue Well, one of the pools in the recesses of the great
-mountain, which discharges its waters into Llynn Gwynant.
-
-{266}  See appendix.
-
-{304}  DAFYDD AP SHENKIN.  (For Three Voices.)  Arranged by W. FORDE.
-
-               [Picture: Music score for Dafydd ap Shenkin]
-
-   Oh! Shenkin was a noble fellow,
-   As ever rov’d in Conway vale;
-   He drank till he was mellow, drank till he was mellow,
-   He drank till he was mellow,
-   And fought till his foes turn’d pale.
-
-   Well did he strike for merry freedom,
-   And England fear’d his great renown,
-   For laws—himself decreed ’em,
-   And gallantly held his own.
-
-   Then drink boys to the outlaw’d ranger,
-   And let us seek old Dafydd’s cave,
-   Where oft he cheer’d the stranger,
-   And dug for his foes a grave.
-
-{384}  FAREWELL TO NORTH WALES.  (_Air_—“Ar hyd y nos.”)  Arranged by W.
-FORDE.  _Andante espressivo_.
-
-            [Picture: Music score for Farewell to North Wales]
-
-   Mountain, glen, wild rock, and heather,
-                                    Now farewell!
-   Lakes and fairy dells for ever,
-                                    All farewell.
-   Land of love and softest blisses,
-   Casket of my dearest wishes,
-   I would cover thee with kisses,
-                                    But farewell.
-
-   Burning tears proclaim my anguish,
-                                    Fare—farewell.
-   When away from thee I languish,
-                                    Fare—farewell.
-   Friends and kindred when I’m sleeping,
-   To my beating heart come creeping
-   Morning brings me woe and weeping,
-                                    Fare—farewell.
-
-   Land where beauty ever glances,
-                                    Fare—farewell.
-   And where joy for ever dances,
-                                    Fare—farewell.
-   Surly winds are round me blowing,
-   Wildly are my white locks flowing,
-   Drear and dark the day is growing,
-                                    Fare—farewell.
-
-
-
-
-***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PEDESTRIAN'S GUIDE THROUGH NORTH
-WALES***
-
-
-******* This file should be named 64203-0.txt or 64203-0.zip *******
-
-
-This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
-http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/4/2/0/64203
-
-
-Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will
-be renamed.
-
-Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright
-law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works,
-so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United
-States without permission and without paying copyright
-royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part
-of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm
-concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark,
-and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive
-specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this
-eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook
-for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports,
-performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given
-away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks
-not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the
-trademark license, especially commercial redistribution.
-
-START: FULL LICENSE
-
-THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
-PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
-
-To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
-distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
-(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
-Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full
-Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at
-www.gutenberg.org/license.
-
-Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic works
-
-1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
-electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
-and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
-(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all
-the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or
-destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your
-possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a
-Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound
-by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the
-person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph
-1.E.8.
-
-1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be
-used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
-agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few
-things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
-even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See
-paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this
-agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm
-electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below.
-
-1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the
-Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection
-of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual
-works in the collection are in the public domain in the United
-States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the
-United States and you are located in the United States, we do not
-claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing,
-displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as
-all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope
-that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting
-free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm
-works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the
-Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily
-comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the
-same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when
-you share it without charge with others.
-
-1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
-what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are
-in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States,
-check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this
-agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing,
-distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any
-other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no
-representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any
-country outside the United States.
-
-1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
-
-1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other
-immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear
-prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work
-on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the
-phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed,
-performed, viewed, copied or distributed:
-
-  This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-  most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no
-  restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it
-  under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this
-  eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the
-  United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you
-  are located before using this ebook.
-
-1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is
-derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not
-contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the
-copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in
-the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are
-redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project
-Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply
-either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or
-obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm
-trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
-
-1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
-with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
-must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any
-additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms
-will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works
-posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the
-beginning of this work.
-
-1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
-License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
-work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
-
-1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
-electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
-prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
-active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
-Gutenberg-tm License.
-
-1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
-compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including
-any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access
-to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format
-other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official
-version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site
-(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense
-to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means
-of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain
-Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the
-full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
-
-1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
-performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
-unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
-
-1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
-access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
-provided that
-
-* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
-  the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
-  you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed
-  to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has
-  agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project
-  Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid
-  within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are
-  legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty
-  payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project
-  Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in
-  Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg
-  Literary Archive Foundation."
-
-* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
-  you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
-  does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
-  License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all
-  copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue
-  all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm
-  works.
-
-* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of
-  any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
-  electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of
-  receipt of the work.
-
-* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
-  distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
-
-1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than
-are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing
-from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The
-Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm
-trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
-
-1.F.
-
-1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
-effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
-works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project
-Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm
-electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may
-contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate
-or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other
-intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or
-other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or
-cannot be read by your equipment.
-
-1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
-of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
-Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
-Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
-liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
-fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
-LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
-PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
-TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
-LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
-INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
-DAMAGE.
-
-1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
-defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
-receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
-written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you
-received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium
-with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you
-with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in
-lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person
-or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second
-opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If
-the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing
-without further opportunities to fix the problem.
-
-1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
-in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO
-OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT
-LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
-
-1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
-warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of
-damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement
-violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the
-agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or
-limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or
-unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the
-remaining provisions.
-
-1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
-trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
-providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in
-accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the
-production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm
-electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses,
-including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of
-the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this
-or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or
-additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any
-Defect you cause.
-
-Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
-
-Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
-electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of
-computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It
-exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations
-from people in all walks of life.
-
-Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
-assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
-goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
-remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project
-Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
-and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future
-generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary
-Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see
-Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at
-www.gutenberg.org 
-
-Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary 
-Archive Foundation
-
-The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
-501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
-state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
-Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
-number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary
-Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by
-U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
-
-The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the
-mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its
-volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous
-locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt
-Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to
-date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and
-official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact
-
-For additional contact information:
-
-    Dr. Gregory B. Newby
-    Chief Executive and Director
-    gbnewby@pglaf.org
-
-Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
-Literary Archive Foundation
-
-Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
-spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
-increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
-freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
-array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations
-($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
-status with the IRS.
-
-The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
-charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
-States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
-considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
-with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations
-where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND
-DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular
-state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate
-
-While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
-have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
-against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
-approach us with offers to donate.
-
-International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
-any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
-outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
-
-Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
-methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other
-ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To
-donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate
-
-Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works.
-
-Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project
-Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be
-freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and
-distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of
-volunteer support.
-
-Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
-editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in
-the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not
-necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper
-edition.
-
-Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search
-facility: www.gutenberg.org
-
-This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
-including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
-Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
-subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
-
diff --git a/old/64203-0.zip b/old/64203-0.zip
deleted file mode 100644
index b1730d2..0000000
--- a/old/64203-0.zip
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h.zip b/old/64203-h.zip
deleted file mode 100644
index 7317b1e..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h.zip
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/64203-h.htm b/old/64203-h/64203-h.htm
deleted file mode 100644
index 4e7b6cc..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/64203-h.htm
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,11258 +0,0 @@
-<!DOCTYPE html
-     PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN"
-     "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
-<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en">
-<head>
-<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" />
-<title>The Pedestrian's Guide through North Wales, by George John Bennett</title>
-    <style type="text/css">
-/*<![CDATA[  XML blockout */
-<!--
-    P {  margin-top: .75em;
-         margin-bottom: .75em;
-         }
-    P.gutsumm { margin-left: 5%;}
-    P.poetry {margin-left: 3%; }
-    .GutSmall { font-size: 0.7em; }
-    H1, H2 {
-         text-align: center;
-		margin-top: 2em;
-		margin-bottom: 2em;
-         }
-    H3, H4, H5 {
-	text-align: center;
-	margin-top: 1em;
-	margin-bottom: 1em;
-	}
-    BODY{margin-left: 10%;
-         margin-right: 10%;
-        }
- table { border-collapse: collapse; }
-table {margin-left:auto; margin-right:auto;}
-    td { vertical-align: top; border: 1px solid black;}
-    td p { margin: 0.2em; }
-    .blkquot  {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */
-
-    .smcap    {font-variant: small-caps;}
-
-    .pagenum {position: absolute;
-               left: 92%;
-               font-size: small;
-               text-align: right;
-		font-weight: normal;
-               color: gray;
-               }
-    img { border: none; }
-    img.dc { float: left; width: 50px; height: 50px; }
-    p.gutindent { margin-left: 2em; }
-    p.gutlist { margin-top: 0.1em; margin-bottom: 0.1em; margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -1em}
-    div.gapspace { height: 0.8em; }
-    div.gapline { height: 0.8em; width: 100%; border-top: 1px solid;} 
-    div.gapmediumline { height: 0.3em; width: 40%; margin-left:30%;
-                  border-top: 1px solid; }
-    div.gapmediumdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 40%; margin-left:30%;
-		  border-top: 1px solid; border-bottom: 1px solid;}
-     div.gapshortdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%;
-                  margin-left: 40%; border-top: 1px solid;
-                  border-bottom: 1px solid; }
-    div.gapdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 50%;
-                  margin-left: 25%; border-top: 1px solid;
-                  border-bottom: 1px solid;}
-    div.gapshortline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; margin-left:40%;
-		  border-top: 1px solid; }
-    .citation {vertical-align: super;
-               font-size: .5em;
-               text-decoration: none;}
-    span.red { color: red; }
-    body {background-color: #ffffc0; }
-    img.floatleft { float: left;
-			margin-right: 1em;
-			margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; }
-    img.floatright { float: right;
-			margin-left: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em;
-			margin-bottom: 0.5em; }
-    img.clearcenter {display: block;
-			margin-left: auto;
-			margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0.5em;
-			margin-bottom: 0.5em}
-    -->
-    /* XML end  ]]>*/
-    </style>
-<link rel='coverpage' href='images/cover.jpg' />
-</head>
-<body>
-<pre>
-
-The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Pedestrian's Guide through North Wales, by
-George John Bennett, Illustrated by Alfred Clint
-
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions 
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at 
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-
-Title: The Pedestrian's Guide through North Wales
-
-
-Author: George John Bennett
-
-
-
-Release Date: January 3, 2021  [eBook #64203]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
-
-
-***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PEDESTRIAN'S GUIDE THROUGH NORTH
-WALES***
-</pre>
-<p>Transcribed from the 1838 Henry Colburn edition by David
-Price.&nbsp; Many thanks to Mold Library for allowing their copy
-to be consulted.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/tpb.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Caernarvonshire, from Anglesea"
-title=
-"Caernarvonshire, from Anglesea"
- src="images/tps.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<h1><span class="GutSmall">THE</span><br />
-PEDESTRIAN&rsquo;S GUIDE<br />
-<span class="GutSmall">THROUGH</span><br />
-NORTH WALES.</h1>
-<p style="text-align: center">A TOUR<br />
-PERFORMED IN 1837.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">BY</span><br
-/>
-G. J. BENNETT, ESQ.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">WITH TWENTY ETCHINGS,</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">BY A. CLINT.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p style="text-align: center">LONDON:<br />
-HENRY COLBURN PUBLISHER,<br />
-<span class="GutSmall">13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.</span><br />
-1838.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p style="text-align: center"><a name="pageii"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. ii</span><span
-class="GutSmall">LONDON:</span><br />
-<span class="GutSmall">SCHULZE AND CO., 13, POLAND
-STREET.</span></p>
-<h2><a name="pageiii"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-iii</span>ILLUSTRATIONS, &amp;c.</h2>
-<table>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'></td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'></td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="GutSmall">Page</span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">1</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Caernarvonshire, from
-Anglesea.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">Title</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">2</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Chirk Castle.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">3</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Llangollen.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">4</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Font in the grounds of Plas
-Newydd.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page99">99</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">5</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Castle Dinas, Bran.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page108">108</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">6</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Valle Crucis Abbey.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">7</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Pillar of Eliseg.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page128">128</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">8</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Bala Lake.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">9</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Cader Idris, from the Bala
-Road.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page171">171</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">10</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Parliament House of Owen
-Glyndwr.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">11</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>View from Carreg y
-Saeth.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page209">209</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">12</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Harlech Castle.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page215">215</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">13</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>The Vale of Maentwrog.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page219">219</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">14</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>The Raven Fall, near
-Maentwrog.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page231">231</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">15</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Pont Aber Glaslyn.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page237">237</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">16</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Snowdon, from the Pass of
-Llyn Gwynant.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page251">251</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">17</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Pass of Llanberis.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page254">254</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">18</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>The Coffin of Leolinus
-Magnus.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page319">319</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">19</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Conway Castle.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page325">325</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">20</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Aber.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page362">362</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td colspan='3' style='vertical-align: middle'><p
-style="text-align: center">WELSH MELODIES, ETC.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">21</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Guide for the
-Pedestrian.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page11">11</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">22</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>The Fairy&rsquo;s
-Serenade.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">23</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Battle Song.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">24</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Jenny Davies.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page143">143</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">25</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Mountain Mary.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page176">176</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">26</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Dafydd ap Shenkin.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page305">305</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right">27</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p>Farewell to North
-Wales.</p>
-</td>
-<td style='vertical-align: middle'><p style="text-align:
-right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page384">384</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-<h2><a name="pagev"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-v</span>CONTENTS.</h2>
-<table>
-<tr>
-<td colspan='2'><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER I.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">Page</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>Preliminary observations&mdash;Preparations for a
-tour&mdash;Coach conversation&mdash;A breakfast and an American
-traveller&mdash;Route to Birmingham&mdash;A dinner&mdash;Road to
-Wolverhampton&mdash;Eccentric passengers&mdash;Lord Hill&rsquo;s
-monument&mdash;Shrewsbury.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page11">11</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td colspan='2'><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER II.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>Walk to Montford Bridge&mdash;The Severn&mdash;An
-agreeable companion&mdash;Delights of a Tourist&mdash;Histrionic
-Ambition&mdash;Wittington&mdash;The Castle&mdash;The
-Church&mdash;Curious Epitaphs.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td colspan='2'><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER III.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>Chirk&mdash;The Aqueduct&mdash;The Deserted, a
-legend&mdash;Description of Chirk Castle&mdash;Sketch&mdash;The
-Park&mdash;Legend of the enchanted Stag&mdash;The Vale of
-Llangollen&mdash;Account of the Aqueduct called
-Pont-y-Cysylltau&mdash;Stanzas for
-music&mdash;Llangollen&mdash;The Hand in Hand&mdash;A view of the
-village.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page57">57</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td colspan='2'><p style="text-align: center"><a
-name="pagevi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. vi</span>CHAPTER
-IV.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>Waking prospect&mdash;Plas Newydd and the
-grounds&mdash;Lines written at the font&mdash;Castle Dinas,
-Bran&mdash;Legend of Mick Mallow&mdash;View of the
-Castle&mdash;Legend of the Minstrel Fay&mdash;Original
-Air&mdash;Festival.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td colspan='2'><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER V.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>Valle Crucis&mdash;The Abbey&mdash;Lines written in the
-ruins&mdash;A loquacious porteress&mdash;A view of the
-Abbey&mdash;The pillar of Eliseg&mdash;A parting&mdash;Road to
-Corwen&mdash;Vale of the Dee&mdash;The musical
-pedestrian&mdash;War song&mdash;Over the hills and far
-away&mdash;An adventure&mdash;Corwen&mdash;The
-Church&mdash;College&mdash;Cross and Circle&mdash;Air
-Llwyn-own&mdash;Route to Llandrillo&mdash;An old soldier and his
-son&mdash;Village of Llandrillo&mdash;A fair&mdash;Vale of
-Edeyrnion&mdash;Arrival at Bala.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td colspan='2'><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER VI.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>Bala&mdash;The Lake&mdash;A Meeting of
-Magistrates&mdash;The Doctor&mdash;Rhewlas&mdash;Lines written at
-Rhewlas&mdash;Farewell to the Bull&rsquo;s Head&mdash;A
-Jolter&mdash;Llanthyn&mdash;Vale of Drwstynrnt&mdash;Legend of
-handsome Hugh and the Fairy&mdash;Cader
-Idris&mdash;Dolgelley&mdash;Song &ldquo;Mountain
-Mary&rdquo;&mdash;The Town Hall&mdash;Parliament House&mdash;St.
-Mary&rsquo;s Church&mdash;Inns&mdash;Angling Station,
-Doluwcheogryd&mdash;The Cataracts of Rhaiadr Du and Pistyll y
-Cain&mdash;Nannau Park&mdash;Anecdote of Owen Glyndwr and Howell
-Sele&mdash;Road to Barmouth&mdash;Arrival&mdash;Inns&mdash;A Walk
-on the sands.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td colspan='2'><p style="text-align: center"><a
-name="pagevii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. vii</span>CHAPTER
-VII.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>Description of Barmouth&mdash;Sketch of the Town&mdash;The
-Estuary&mdash;Friar&rsquo;s Island&mdash;Dinas Gortin&mdash;Earl
-of Richmond&mdash;Anecdote of the men of Ardudwy, and the men of
-Denbighshire&mdash;Mostyn Hall&mdash;A pic-nic party&mdash;Llyn
-Cwm Bychan&mdash;Carreg y Saeth&mdash;The Witch of Cwm
-Bychan&mdash;Legendary Tale&mdash;Bwlch Tyddiad&mdash;A mountain
-ride and a regretful farewell</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page183">183</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td colspan='2'><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER VIII.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>Harlech&mdash;The Inn&mdash;The Castle&mdash;Anecdote of
-Dafydd ap Ivan ap Einion&mdash;Road to
-Maentwrog&mdash;View&mdash;A persevering Cobbler&mdash;The Oakley
-Arms&mdash;Pleasures of Fly fishing&mdash;New
-Companions&mdash;Angling Stations&mdash;An Adventure&mdash;Road
-to Tremadoc&mdash;Tan y Bwlch&mdash;Port Madoc Breakwater and
-Mountain Scenery described&mdash;Tremadoc&mdash;Tan yr
-Allt&mdash;Pont Aber Glas Llyn&mdash;Lines written at the
-Bridge&mdash;Beddgelert&mdash;The Inn&mdash;Story of a
-Pointer.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page213">213</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td colspan='2'><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER IX.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>Departure from Beddgelert&mdash;Vortigern&rsquo;s
-Hill&mdash;Snowdon&mdash;Llynn Gwynant&mdash;Lines written upon
-Llynn Gwynant&mdash;Gwrydd&mdash;Public House&mdash;Lake
-Fishing&mdash;A Night Adventure&mdash;Pass of
-Llanberis&mdash;Legend of the Giant&rsquo;s Night-Cap&mdash;The
-Lakes&mdash;The Castle of Dolbadarn and Legend&mdash;View of
-Llanberis.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page246">246</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td colspan='2'><p style="text-align: center"><a
-name="pageviii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. viii</span>CHAPTER
-X.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>The church of Llanberis&mdash;Monumental
-inscriptions&mdash;Story of little John Closs&mdash;The
-Pellings&mdash;Capel Curig&mdash;Moel Siabod&mdash;Castle of
-Dolwydd&eacute;lan&mdash;Falls of Benclog&mdash;Llyn
-Ogwen&mdash;Llyn Idwal&mdash;Story of Idwal&mdash;Route to
-Llanrwst&mdash;Falls of Rhaiadr y Wennol&mdash;Bettws y
-Coed&mdash;The church&mdash;Monuments&mdash;Pont y Pair&mdash;Ogo
-ap Shenkin, a Legend&mdash;Glee, &ldquo;Shenkin was a noble
-fellow!&rdquo;</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page280">280</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td colspan='2'><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER XI.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>A Mistake&mdash;Road to Llanrwst&mdash;Gwydir
-Castle&mdash;Llanrwst Shaking Bridge&mdash;Inn&mdash;The
-Theatre&mdash;Town Hall&mdash;Free Schools&mdash;Alms
-Houses&mdash;Rhaiadr y Parc Mawr&mdash;Llyn
-Gierionydd&mdash;Taliesin&mdash;Trefriw&mdash;Slate
-Quarries&mdash;Conway&mdash;The Suspension Bridge&mdash;The
-Castle&mdash;Local Customs&mdash;A Phrenologist&mdash;Excursion
-to the Ormes&rsquo; Head&mdash;The Smuggler&mdash;The Bump of
-<i>Order</i>.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page306">306</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td colspan='2'><p style="text-align: center">CHAPTER XII.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>Route to Aber&mdash;Penmaen Mawr&mdash;The pet
-Goat&mdash;Aber&mdash;Legend of Llywelyn and the Captive
-Knight&mdash;Road from Aber to Bangor&mdash;Penrhyn
-Castle&mdash;Bangor&mdash;Inns&mdash;The Cathedral&mdash;The
-Castle&mdash;Free Schools&mdash;The Menai Bridge&mdash;Song,
-Farewell to North Wales, air, Ar Hyd y Nos&mdash;Conclusion</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page352">352</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>Appendix</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page375">375</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-<h2><a name="page1"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-1</span>PREFACE.</h2>
-<p><span class="smcap">The</span> Author&rsquo;s object in
-offering to the Public the following pages is, that all who have
-a desire to examine the beauties of Welsh scenery may also have
-an opportunity of seeing the most <i>interesting</i> portion of
-it in a tour which will not occupy more than a month.&nbsp; The
-route described in this volume presents a variety of pictures
-which can scarcely be equalled, and certainly not surpassed, in
-any quarter of the globe.&nbsp; It is true there are hills higher
-far than any in Snowdonia, and valleys more extensive; but, while
-we are astonished at a description of the enormous magnitude of
-the Asiatic and American mountains, and the noble rivers, and
-sea-like lakes of the latter, let us take into our consideration
-<a name="page2"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 2</span>which is the
-most desirable country to explore; that in which nature&rsquo;s
-prodigies are so extensive that we can neither ascend the
-eminences, ford the rivers, nor view the opposite shores of the
-extensive lakes; or <i>that</i> where mountains may be scaled
-with ease, from the summits of which, a series of glorious
-panoramas burst upon the eye,&mdash;wherein the valleys, glens
-and wild ravines present an endless variety of sublimity and
-beauty, and the loud torrent and the waterfall pour forth their
-melody of never tiring sweetness, to delight the ear?</p>
-<p>Seas must be crossed, and miles of dreary and uninteresting
-country traversed, in wandering from one grand object to another
-in the <i>former</i>; while, in the route here represented to the
-Public,&mdash;within the reach of all&mdash;repose and admiration
-charm the heart by turns, in the rich fertile valleys, lofty and
-wood-clad hills, or heather-mantled mountains, of North
-Wales.&nbsp; The traveller is likewise insured the comfort of a
-good inn, where he may rest his wearied limbs, after a
-day&rsquo;s ramble in whatever part of the district he chooses to
-select for his excursion; and the healthy and active should
-decidedly make <i>use</i> of their <i>limbs</i>, to bear them
-through this tour, in <a name="page3"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 3</span>preference to the more easy and
-luxurious vehicle, and even to the equestrian mode of
-conveyance.&nbsp; A good horsewoman may venture into the dark
-defiles, or climb the craggy heights upon the ponys, which are
-always in readiness at the inns for that purpose; but between a
-man and his steed there will most assuredly be a strong feeling
-of sympathy created by a conviction, that the one is a most
-unnecessary burthen to the other.</p>
-<p>For the etchings which illustrate this little work, the Author
-is indebted to his friend Mr. Alfred Clint, who accompanied him
-in his second tour, and whose judicious selection of subjects has
-given a value to the volume, which, without his aid, would have
-been deficient in its principal ornaments.&nbsp; There is no
-composition in any of the illustrations; they are the scenes of
-nature reflected in the mirror of art.&nbsp; Not a mountain or
-valley, grey ruin or waterfall, but is represented as it really
-<i>is</i>; and for the best reason in the world, viz. that any
-attempt to improve upon the subjects, would destroy their real
-beauty.</p>
-<p>The peasantry are simple, honest, and obliging; and, as they
-trudge along, a spirit of <a name="page4"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 4</span>freedom sparkles in their eyes, and
-seems to animate every action of their unfettered limbs.&nbsp;
-Though their fare is humble, they enjoy it with an appetite to
-which the bracing air of their hills, and their happy ignorance
-of luxuries, give an enviable zest.&nbsp; Drunkenness is a vice
-almost unknown among these primitive mountaineers: milk is their
-common beverage, oatmeal cakes, and potatoes, with a plentiful
-supply of trout from their native streams, form their chief
-summer food; while, in winter, dry salted beef and mutton serve
-to satisfy their utmost wishes.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Though poor the peasant&rsquo;s hut, his
-feasts tho&rsquo; small,<br />
-He sees his little lot the lot of all.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">* * * * *</p>
-<p>Dear is that shed to which his soul conforms,<br />
-And dear that hill which lifts him to the storms.<br />
-And, as a child, when scaring sounds molest,<br />
-Clings close and closer to the mother&rsquo;s breast,<br />
-So the loud torrent, and the whirlwind&rsquo;s roar,<br />
-But bind him to his native mountains more.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<h2><a name="page5"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-5</span>DIRECTIONS<br />
-<span class="GutSmall">TO THOSE UNACQUAINTED WITH THE WELSH
-LANGUAGE.</span></h2>
-<p>A knowledge of the Welsh alphabet is indispensable to those
-who are desirous of correctly pronouncing the necessary questions
-and answers that transpire upon the road.&nbsp; The names of
-places must effectually puzzle any tourist, who is not acquainted
-with the peculiar sound of each letter, particularly where there
-are many consonants in a word.&nbsp; In order therefore to aid
-the traveller in Wales, I have selected the following rules.</p>
-<p>In the Welsh alphabet there are no mutes; and all letters that
-are circumflex must be pronounced long, as</p>
-<p class="gutlist">B&ocirc;n like the English Bone.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Bin, as Been.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">C, as Can, but never soft as in City.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Ch, is pronounced as the Greek &chi;.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Dd, as the English Th in theme.</p>
-<p class="gutlist"><a name="page6"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-6</span>F, as V in English.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Ff, as F and double F in English.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">G, as G in good, but never soft as in
-genial.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">I, as I in king but never as in fire.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Ll, as L aspirated.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Th, as in thought.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">U, as I in the English words bliss, kiss
-&amp;c.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">W, as double O in good, wood.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Y, as U in burn, but in the last syllable of a
-word; and in all monosyllables except Y, Ydd, Ym, Yn, Yr, Ys, Fy,
-Dy, Myn, it is like I in Sin.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>By attending to these rules, the stranger will easily make
-himself understood by the peasantry, and on his tours, in
-enquiring for any place to which he may be journeying.</p>
-<h3>GLOSSARY.</h3>
-<p class="gutlist">Ap, or Ab, is prefixed to proper names, and
-signifies, the son of.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Aber, the fall of one water into another, a
-confluence.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Am, about, around.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Ar, upon, or bordering upon.</p>
-<p class="gutlist"><a name="page7"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-7</span>Avon, or Afon, a river.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Ban, high, lofty, tall.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Bach, little, small.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Bedd, a grave, a sepulchre.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Bettws, a station between hill and vale.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Blaen, a point or end.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">B&ocirc;d, a residence.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Braich, a branch.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Bron, the breast or slope of a hill.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Bryn, a hill, a mount.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Bychan, little.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Bylch, a gap or pass.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Cader, a chair.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Caer, a city.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Capel, a chapel.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Carn, a heap.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Carnedd, a heap of stones.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Careg, a stone.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Castell, a castle, fortress.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Cil, (pronounced keel) a retreat, a
-recess.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Clawdd, a hedge, a dyke.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Clogwyn, a precipice.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Coed, a wood.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Cors, a bog, a fen.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Craig, a rock or craig.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Croes, a cross.</p>
-<p class="gutlist"><a name="page8"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-8</span>Cym, a valley or glen.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Dinas, a fort, a city, or a fortified
-place.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Dol, a meadow or dale in the bend of the
-river.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Drws, a doorway, a pass.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">D&ucirc;, black.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Dwfr or Dwr, water.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Dyffryn, a valley.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Eglwys, a church.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Ffordd, away, a road a passage.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Ffynnon, a well, a spring.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Garth, a hill bending round.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Gl&agrave;n, a brink or shore.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Gl&acirc;s, bluish or greyish green.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Glyn, a glen or valley through which a river
-runs.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Gwern, a watery meadow.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Gwydd, a wood.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Gwyn, white, fair.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Llan, a church, a smooth area, an
-inclosure.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Llwyn, a grove.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Maen, a stone.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Mawr, great.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Moel, a smooth conical hill.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Mynydd, a mountain.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Nant, a ravine, a brook.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Newydd, new, fresh.</p>
-<p class="gutlist"><a name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-9</span>Pant, a hollow or valley.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Pistyll, a spout, a cataract.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Plas, a hall or palace.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Plwyf, a parish.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Pont, a bridge.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Porth, a ferry, a port, a gateway.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Pwll, a pit or pool.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Rhaiadr, a cataract.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Rhiw, an ascent.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Ryhd, a ford.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Sarn, a causeway, a pavement.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Tal, the front or head, also tall.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Traeth, a sand or shore.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Tre or Tref, a home, a town.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Twr, a tower.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Ty, a house.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Y, the, of.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Yn, in, at, into.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Ynys, an island.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Ystrad, a vale, a dale.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Yspytty, a hospital, an almshouse.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>By referring to this short Glossary, the tourist will find no
-difficulty in understanding the meanings of the different names
-given to the different places through which he will have to
-pass.</p>
-<h3><a name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-10</span>INTERJECTIONS.</h3>
-<p>As there are many interjectional adverbs made use of in the
-following pages, a glossary of them might prove useful.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Aro! stop!</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Dacw! yonder!</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Dyna, dyna! there, there.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Dyt, dyt! hold, hold!</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Fwrz! away!</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Gwae, woe.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Hai how! heigho!</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Hwnt! avaunt!</p>
-<p class="gutlist">O dyn! oh dear!</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Oia! oh pray!</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Oio! hear me!</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Truan bac! poor little thing!</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Truan hyny! poor thing, that it was!</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Twt! pshaw!</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Wela, wela! well, well!</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Ysywaeth! the more the pity!</p>
-<h2>GUIDE FOR THE PEDESTRIAN.</h2>
-<table>
-<tr>
-<td><p style="text-align: center">ROUTE.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: center">COUNTIES.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: center">MILES.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: center">PRINCIPAL INNS.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: center">OBJECTS OF INTEREST.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: center">ANGLING STATIONS.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>From <span class="smcap">London</span> to <span
-class="smcap">Shrewsbury</span>,</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Salop</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">154</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Talbot&mdash;Raven&mdash;Lion, and the Fox.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The House of Industry&mdash;Military
-Dep&ocirc;t&mdash;Lord Hill&rsquo;s Column&mdash;Quarry
-Walk&mdash;and the Castle.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Severn.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>thence to <span class="smcap">Wittington</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Do.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-<td><p>The Castle, and the Church.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Severn.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="smcap">Chirk</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Denbighshire</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Hand.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Castle&mdash;The Aqueduct and Vale.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Ceiriog.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="smcap">Llangollen</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Do.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Hand&mdash;King&rsquo;s Head, and Royal Oak.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Bran&mdash;Church&mdash;Plas Newydd&mdash;Pont
-Cysylltan.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Dee&mdash;to Corwen or Overton.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="smcap">Corwen</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Merionethshire</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Owen Glyndwr.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Church&mdash;Cross&mdash;Glyndwys Seat&mdash;Vale of
-Edeyrnion.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Between Corwen and Llan St. Ffraid bridge.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="smcap">Bala</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Do.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>White Lion &amp; Bull&rsquo;s Head.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Lake&mdash;Aran Fowddwy&mdash;Arrenig
-Vawr&mdash;Arrenig Vach.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Bala lake and pool, halfway up the Arrenig Vach&mdash;R.
-Dee.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="smcap">Dolgelley</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Do.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Golden Lion&mdash;Angel, &amp; Ship.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Nannau Park&mdash;Kymmer Abbey&mdash;County
-gaol&mdash;Parliament House of Owen Glyndwr&mdash;The Falls of
-Rhaiadr Mawddach&mdash;Rhaiadr Du, and Pistyll-y-Cain.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Lanvachreth 3&frac12; miles&mdash;Dol-y-gammed, on the
-Avon, 4 miles&mdash;Llyn Cregnan, S.W. 4 miles&mdash;Llyn Gader,
-1&frac12; m&mdash;Llyn Griew, 5 m&mdash;Tal-y-llyn, on Cader
-Idris, 6 m.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="smcap">Barmouth</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Do.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Commercial Inn, and Cors-y-gedol Arms.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Old Town&mdash;Sarn Badric&mdash;Cors-y-gedol.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Llyn Raithlyn, near Trawsfynydd&mdash;Arthog Chapel, 3 m.
-distant&mdash;Llyn Bodlyn, 4 M. from Barmouth&mdash;Llyn Teddin
-and Llyn Gierw, near the town.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="smcap">Harlech</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Do.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Blue Lion.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Castle&mdash;Cwm Bychan&mdash;The Cromlech, 2 miles S.
-in a farm called Gwern Einion&mdash;A Druidical circle between
-the Farm and Harlech.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Llanvihangel, on Dwyryd, 5 m&mdash;Llanbedr on the Bychan,
-3 m&mdash;Llyn-y-Vedw, Llyn Eiddaw, Llyn Glyn&mdash;Llyn-y-cwm
-Bychan&mdash;Llyn Trewyn.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="smcap">Maentwrog</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Do.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Maentwrog Inn, and Oakley Arms.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Tan-y-Bwlch&mdash;Slate Quarries, 5 m&mdash;Rhaiadr Du and
-Raven fall, 2 m&mdash;Festiniog, 3 m&mdash;Falls of
-Cynfall&mdash;Roman encampment (Toman Mur) 3 m from
-Festiniog.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Llyn Llanyrch, 3&frac12; m (good trout)&mdash;Cwmmorthin
-Lake (in the pass of Cwmmorthin) 4&frac12; m&mdash;Llyn Mannot, 6
-m (large trout)&mdash;Llyn Murionion, 6 m&mdash;Llyn Tackwyn. 3
-m.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="smcap">Tremadoc</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Caernarvonshire.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">10&frac12;</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Madoc Arms.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Breakwater at Port Madoc&mdash;The Church.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Angling from Tremadoc.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="smcap">Beddgelert</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Do.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">10&frac12;</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Goat.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Gelert&rsquo;s grave&mdash;The chair of Rhys
-Gocho&rsquo;r&rsquo; Ryri&mdash;Pont Aber Glas Llyn.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Nant Gwynnant&mdash;Llyn Dinas&mdash;Cwm Llan&mdash;Llyn
-Gwynnant&mdash;Llyn Llydan.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="smcap">Llanberis</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Do.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Victoria, and Snowdonia.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Dolbadarn Castle&mdash;The Church&mdash;The Tomb of little
-John Closs&mdash;Well of St. Peris&mdash;Lakes&mdash;Pass.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Upper and lower lakes (bad sport)&mdash;Llyn Cwm Dwythog,
-2 m&mdash;Llyn Llydan (on Snowdon), 5 m&mdash;Glaslyn, on the W.
-of Snowdon.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="smcap">Capel Curig</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Do.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Capel Curig Inn.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Rhaiadr-y-Wennol
-waterfall&mdash;Moel-Siabod&mdash;Dolwyddelan Castle, 5 m.</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="smcap">Bettws-y-Coed</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Do.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-<td><p>Pont-y-pair&mdash;Shenkin&rsquo;s
-Cave&mdash;Church&mdash;Monument to Davyd Goch.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Lake Ogwen&mdash;Nant Francon&mdash;Llyn Idwal&mdash;R.
-Llugwy.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="smcap">Llanrwst</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Denbighshire.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Eagles.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Bridge&mdash;Gwydir Castle&mdash;The
-Church&mdash;Gwydir Chapel.</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="smcap">Conway</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Caernarvonshire.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Castle, and the Newborough Arms.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Castle&mdash;Church&mdash;Curious monuments&mdash;Plas
-Mawr&mdash;Ormes-head.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Bettws-y-Coed, 3 m&mdash;Trevriw, 2 &frac12;
-m&mdash;Dol-garrog, 4 m&mdash;Llanbedr, 5 m&mdash;Dolwyddelan, 8
-m&mdash;Tal-y-Llyn, and Llyn Crafnant, near Llanrwst.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="smcap">Aber-gwyngregyn</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Do.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Bulkley Arms.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Waterfall and Glen&mdash;Penmaen Mawr.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Llyn Ogwen&mdash;Llyn Idwal, and Ogwen river.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="smcap">Bangor</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Do.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right">5&frac12;</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The Penrhyn Arms&mdash;The Castle&mdash;the Liverpool
-Arms, and Albion.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Penrhyn Castle&mdash;Slate
-quarries&mdash;Caenarvon&mdash;Menai Bridge&mdash;Beaumaris and
-Castle&mdash;Penmon Monastery&mdash;Plas Newydd&mdash;Baron
-Hill&mdash;Puffin Island, and the Cathedral.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>The fishing stations as above.</p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-<h2><a name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-11</span>CHAPTER I.</h2>
-<p class="gutsumm">Preliminary observations&mdash;Preparations
-for a tour&mdash;Coach conversation&mdash;A breakfast and an
-American traveller&mdash;Route to Birmingham&mdash;A
-dinner&mdash;Road to Wolverhampton&mdash;Eccentric
-passengers&mdash;Lord Hill&rsquo;s monument&mdash;Shrewsbury.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Like brethren now do Welshmen still
-agree<br />
-In as much love as any men alive;<br />
-The friendship there and concord that I see<br />
-I doe compare to bees in honey hive,<br />
-Which keep in swarme, and hold together still,<br />
-Yet gladly showe to stranger great good will;<br />
-A courteous kinde of love in every place<br />
-A man may finde, in simple people&rsquo;s face.&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: right">CHURCHYARD.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p><span class="smcap">Various</span>, as the features of human
-nature, are the sources of human happiness.&nbsp; Some derive <a
-name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 12</span>their
-choicest pleasure from historical accounts of men who lived in
-by-gone ages, and in re-creating events that have long since been
-engulphed in the abyss of time,&mdash;breaking down the barriers
-of intervening years, and mingling, in idea, with those who were
-once deemed the glorious of the earth, who now lie blended with
-its grossest atoms, or are confounded with the purer
-elements.&nbsp; Some, parching with the thirst of knowledge, seek
-to slake the fever of their minds with most laborious research;
-explore the utmost regions of the globe to find a shorter marine
-passage; or pierce into its depths to seek for treasures which
-only exist in their heated fancies.&nbsp; The vast ocean is
-fathomed to satisfy the ruling principle of their
-natures,&mdash;curiosity; and the realms of air traversed with
-the same motive to insure the universally desired result,
-self-gratification.&nbsp; While some, leaving the elements to
-perform the destined changes, are willing to agree with the poet,
-who in the warmth of his philanthropy exclaims:</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The proper study of mankind is
-man;&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>and among this class of beings the author of these pages may
-be ranked, although he willingly <a name="page13"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 13</span>confesses nature has the power of
-charming him in her most minute as in her most stupendous works,
-from the curious and confined instinct of the ant and of the bee
-to the wonderful and exhaustless energies of the human mind,</p>
-
-<blockquote><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&ldquo;That
-source<br />
-Whence learning, virtue, wisdom, all things flow.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The court, the city, and the country, present an endless
-variety of subjects for contemplation; and the latter being the
-region of delight to those whose business confines them to the
-metropolis for the winter months, the author of this volume is
-anxious to be thought a useful and an amusing companion to such
-tourists who, in pursuit of health and the charms of nature, may
-wander</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;In the Welsh vales &rsquo;mid mountains
-high,&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>where the sublime and beautiful present themselves at every
-turn to captivate the eye, and ruddy health colours the smiling
-faces of every peasant girl and shepherd boy, from Chirk to
-Holyhead.</p>
-<p>To a mind capable of estimating fine scenery, how delightful
-are the hurry and bustle which usually take place on the morning
-of departure, <a name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-14</span>in fond expectation of realizing the anticipated
-pleasure of viewing those beauties of nature the imagination has
-but weakly painted!&nbsp; The sun is scarcely sooner up than the
-traveller; and, although the coach in which he is to be rolled
-some hundred and fifty miles will not start for perhaps three
-hours, his anxiety preponderates over the now slighted comforts
-of his bed of down, and with an agile leap he quits his restless
-pillow, and hastily despatching the business of his toilet, with
-his heart beating high, and his knapsack already stuffed with
-three shirts, as many pairs of stockings, guide books, and as few
-other necessaries as may be, in order to make his walking
-wardrobe as light as possible, he prepares to &ldquo;take the
-road.&rdquo;&nbsp; If a disciple of old Isaac Walton and Cotton,
-he will not fail to have his book of flies, lines, reel, &amp;c.,
-and a light fly rod to carry in his hand, and for which he is
-sure to have use whenever he feels inclined for piscatory pastime
-on his tour.&nbsp; So stocked and provided, he bids defiance to
-the evils of life; and may exclaim with the poet</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Warly cares and warly men<br />
-May a&rsquo; gae tapsalteeree O!&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p><a name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-15</span>&ldquo;Do you ride upon the box, sir?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;To be sure I do&mdash;paid that fellow to keep it for
-me.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;All right, sir: mount if you please,&mdash;not a minute
-to spare.&nbsp; All right behind there?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;All right.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Hold fast, sir!&mdash;let &rsquo;em go, Joey!&nbsp;
-Blow avay, Bill,&rdquo; then addressing the near wheeler;
-&ldquo;eh, vot, you&rsquo;re at your tantarums again!&nbsp;
-I&rsquo;ll vork &rsquo;em out of you before ve gets to the end of
-the stage.&nbsp; Do you know, sir, it vas all along of this here
-varmint that ve&rsquo;d the upset last veek.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Indeed! we&rsquo;ve a pleasant prospect before us,
-then.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Oh there&rsquo;s no fear, sir; I vas never upset in my
-life, and I&rsquo;ve been upon this here road for five and twenty
-years come next Christmas; but it vas all along of a gemman as
-had the reins in hand, ven poor Ned Burkem just vent in for his
-mornins, at the King&rsquo;s Arms&mdash;yonder you may see the
-sign just afore us; ve alvays stops there for our mornins, case
-you see, sir, the landlord vas von of us, and his daughter is a
-main pretty girl.&nbsp; I suppose, sir, you&rsquo;ve no objection
-to look at a pretty girl, ha, ha!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;None in the world, James.&rdquo;</p>
-<p><a name="page16"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-16</span>&ldquo;Veil, here ve are; and now, sir, if you&rsquo;ll
-just lay hold of the ribbons for von minute, I&rsquo;ll leave
-&rsquo;em this here parcel.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>To this proposition I agreed, with the proviso that one ostler
-should hold the tricksey mare, and another stand at the
-leaders&rsquo; heads, having no wish for a repetition of poor old
-Ned Burkem&rsquo;s mishap.&nbsp; The parcel being delivered, the
-half pint of purl swallowed, and James again seated, like ruddy
-Ph&oelig;bus, on the coach box, the horses were put in motion to
-the tune of eleven miles an hour.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Very pretty travelling this, Mr. &mdash;, I beg your
-pardon, sir, but your name is &mdash;&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Yes, you&rsquo;re right, James.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Veil, I thought I vas, sir; it&rsquo;s not always that
-I can remember names, sir; for you must know that, although
-I&rsquo;ve drove some thousands in my time, just seated where you
-are, sir, at this present, I don&rsquo;t think I could remember
-one half of their names.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Very surprising indeed, for a man of your
-observation.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Lord bless you, sir, vy my observation is nothing to
-Squire &mdash;, that&rsquo;s his house you see on your left; they
-say he can see the Eclipse <a name="page17"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 17</span>(coach) in the moon.&nbsp; But they
-can&rsquo;t tool &rsquo;em along as ve does here, I take it,
-sir.&nbsp; Go along, snarler!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>James&rsquo;s tongue and the coach continued in rapid
-progress; and in due time we reached the Sportsman Inn at
-Whetstone, when the passengers had an opportunity of displaying
-the extraordinary effects produced by the morning air upon
-fasting stomachs.&nbsp; A lady and her daughter, who were inside
-passengers, did ample justice to the fare; the latter, in
-particular, payed away at the cold fowl and ham in a manner truly
-surprising.&nbsp; &ldquo;Coach ready, ladies,&rdquo; cried James;
-and up jumped mother and pet, with mouths full of fowl, toast,
-etc., which they washed down, unmasticated, with the dregs of
-their tea; and in a minute were again seated inside the coach,
-opposite to two gentlemen, one rather a corpulent man, with
-&ldquo;spectacles on nose,&rdquo; the other a gay young citizen,
-who was to leave us at Barnet.</p>
-<p>The coach had not started above five minutes, before fragrant
-wreaths of smoke were making their escape out of the window, and
-delighting the outside passengers with the refreshing odour: for
-this we were indebted to the stout gentleman <a
-name="page18"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 18</span>before
-mentioned, who having lately arrived from America, could not be
-expected to understand the civilized customs of travellers in
-England, and who inconsiderately concluded that his cigar was as
-agreeable to the ladies as to himself.&nbsp; It proved otherwise,
-however: the cold fowl lay uneasy, and the ham seemed to object
-to being smoked.&nbsp; This, both ladies endeavoured to intimate
-to their opposite neighbour, by sundry wry faces and beseeching
-looks.&nbsp; At length, his cigar being nearly finished, the
-smoker could no longer pretend blindness to the distressing
-condition to which he had reduced his companions&mdash;and he
-then asked &ldquo;if they had any objection to
-smoking?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>The elderly lady, whose politeness had extended to the utmost
-limits of her nature, with a forced smile replied (while the ashy
-paleness of her face spoke the tumult that was stirring within,)
-&ldquo;Not the&mdash;slightest, sir, if you have no objection
-to&mdash;to&mdash;&rdquo; open the other window, she would have
-said, but the daughter could no longer support the motion of the
-coach and the fumes of tobacco, and, to the horror of the
-American gentleman, he instantly found himself in no very
-enviable situation.</p>
-<p><a name="page19"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 19</span>He
-started from his seat, and almost lifted the roof of the coach
-off by the concussion between it and his head.&nbsp; &ldquo;No
-objection, madam!&rdquo; cried he in great wrath; &ldquo;but I
-wish you to understand that I have a very great objection to
-this, I calculate!&mdash;Here, coachman! stop! let me get out!
-will you?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Coachee complied, and the ladies were doubly relieved.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I&rsquo;m in a pretty considerable pickle, I&rsquo;m
-thinking!&rdquo; said he, as he seated himself behind us on the
-roof.</p>
-<p>The more agreeable rattle of the wheels prevented our hearing
-more of his complaints, and we arrived at Barnet.</p>
-<p>About a mile and a half from Barnet, upon the right, is the
-estate of Mr. Byng, and a little further, on the left, that of
-Mr. Trotter.&nbsp; The town of St. Albans with its ancient Abbey,
-which creates pleasing ideas of bygone times, of monks and
-friars, &ldquo;fat pullets and clouted cream,&rdquo; was passed
-through; and descending the hill, on leaving the town, fresh
-objects became interesting to the eye.</p>
-<p>After leaving Gorham Bury, Earl Verulam&rsquo;s seat on the
-left, we came to Market Street and <a name="page20"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 20</span>passed a delightful residence called
-Market Cell, the property of a Mr. Johnson, and beyond Sir F. P.
-Turner&rsquo;s on the right, and Mr. Duncombe&rsquo;s on the
-left, are places that make a man desirous of possessing
-&pound;10,000 per annum.</p>
-<p>Dunstable is rattled through next, and then comes <i>Fenny
-Stratford</i>, <i>Stony Stratford</i>, <i>Easton Neston</i>, and
-then <i>Lord Pomfret&rsquo;s</i> noble domain.&nbsp;
-<i>Towcester</i> comes next upon the list, and <i>Weedon
-Barracks</i>, where a view of the rail road presents itself.</p>
-<p>Then the coach enters Dunchurch, changing horses at the Dun
-Inn; where being pretty well roasted in the hot sun, some of the
-passengers endeavoured to obtain a draught of something to
-moisten their parched throats; but if the garrison of Weedon had
-discharged all their powder in firing an alarm, and the bells of
-Dunchurch had joined in the uproar, I do not think a single soul
-would have answered the summons in the Dun Inn.&nbsp; We were
-obliged therefore to ascend again, with throats unquenched.</p>
-<p>From Dunchurch the coach passes through a noble avenue of elms
-and firs which stretches for six miles beyond the village,
-certainly the <a name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-21</span>finest avenue, in extent, I ever beheld; and the size of
-the trees is not the least interesting object, spreading their
-luxuriant branches until they form almost a continuous bower.</p>
-<p>Coventry sends forth her store of ragged urchins to see the
-London coach come in, and peeping Tom, in effigy, looks as
-inquisitive as peeping Tom himself could have done.</p>
-<p><i>Aylesley Church</i> is a very beautiful structure; and a
-little beyond is Packington Hall, the Mansion of Lord
-Aylesford.</p>
-<p>At Bucknell, another view of the railroad is obtained; and at
-length, to the infinite joy of hungry passengers, Birmingham, and
-dinner, appear in the distance.</p>
-<p>We drew up to the inn.&nbsp; I was the only passenger who
-entered the dining room.&nbsp; The coach was to stop for twenty
-minutes; and after waiting ten with the patience of a stoic, the
-waiter entered with a calf&rsquo;s head, cold, over which some
-boiling water had been poured, by way of sauce.&nbsp; I am fond
-of a mealy potatoe, and some were placed before me thoroughly
-saturated; a cauliflower, boiled in the scented waters of fifty
-other vegetables, completely scared away my appetite, <a
-name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 22</span>and fully
-answered the purposes both of landlord and coachman.</p>
-<p>The latter at that moment popping his head in at the door,
-&ldquo;Coach ready, sir, if you please!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I&rsquo;m glad of it; what&rsquo;s to pay, my
-girl?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Three and sixpence for dinner, sir, if you please, and
-threepence for ale.&rdquo;</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Experience makes fools wise,&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>I exclaimed, as with an empty stomach I reseated myself upon
-the box.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;St&mdash;st&mdash;go along! a fine town this,
-sir!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Is it?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Don&rsquo;t you think so, sir?</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I never was in such a half starved, hungry looking
-place in my life,&rdquo; cried I, at that time feeling the
-cravings of nature strong within me, and fancying I saw the ghost
-of a London cook shop, flitting before my eyes.</p>
-<p>The road from Birmingham to Shrewsbury, if travelled by night,
-gives a stranger a glowing idea of the &ldquo;fiery
-regions,&rdquo; never mentioned to &ldquo;ears
-polite.&rdquo;&nbsp; No description can come up to <a
-name="page23"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 23</span>the flaming
-reality exhibited in the appearance of this country; hundreds of
-hills of burning coke blaze in all directions, and the air is
-scarcely endurable from the gaseous qualities of the smoke, which
-sweeps across the road in huge columns, almost suffocating every
-passenger who ventures upon that dismal tract.</p>
-<p>But increasing horrors gather round the devoted tourist as he
-advances further, on the road to Wolverhampton: thousands of
-indistinct forms move in the glare of the distant fires, or flit,
-like a legion of black devils, over the burning coals; sometimes
-standing in bold relief before the blazing chimneys of fifty or
-sixty steam engines, that send up bursts of flame glaring in all
-directions; and imagination might picture thousands of fallen
-angels, tossing their flaming brands above their heads, in
-frantic sport and direful revelry.</p>
-<p>Groups of grinning imps sat scattered near the road side,
-whose yellings made the welkin ring again as we passed by
-them.&nbsp; Roaring Bacchanals filled the air with their drunken
-shouts; and withered hags held out their bony hands for alms, to
-be expended in liquid fire for their throats.</p>
-<p><a name="page24"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 24</span>Behind
-me, on the roof of the coach, were two most eccentric travellers
-who had taken their places at Birmingham for Shrewsbury.&nbsp;
-The night was cold, and one, whom I discovered to be of the
-Emerald Isle, had, with national foresight, provided himself with
-a dacent drop of &ldquo;the mountain dew,&rdquo; just to keep the
-wind off his stomach; and next to him was seated a demure looking
-personage, who by his peculiar dialect proved to be a son of
-Scotia&mdash;</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Land of the mountain and the
-flood.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;By the honor of Erin!&rdquo; exclaimed the first,
-&ldquo;I&rsquo;m not at all surprised to find you such a silent
-companion, for it&rsquo;s a mighty cowld night, and your
-conversation must nat&rsquo;rally freeze before its spoken.&nbsp;
-Will you take a drop of comfort to thaw it, my darlint?&rdquo; at
-the same time presenting a flask of potheen to the party he
-addressed.</p>
-<p>It must be observed that this sprig of shamrock was dressed in
-a blue jacket, with a light summer waistcoat, and a pair of duck
-trowsers, which suited admirably the mid-day ride, but were
-inefficient to exclude the cold night air.&nbsp; <a
-name="page25"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 25</span>But I suppose
-he went, like the generality of his countrymen, upon the
-philosophical principle, that &ldquo;a light heart and a thin
-pair of breeches goes thorough the world, my brave
-boys.&rdquo;&nbsp; His companion was dressed in a velvet shooting
-jacket, thick plush trowsers, and waistcoat of the same, over
-which he wore a heavy box coat, which was encased in a cloth
-cloak of unusual dimensions: over this was a mackintosh cape, and
-his head was enveloped in a fur cap, fastened by an Indian silk
-handkerchief tied round the chin&mdash;and altogether he seemed
-to defy wind and weather.</p>
-<p>This bundle of comfort, pulling down for an instant the
-neckerchief, which was also rolled round the aperture of speech,
-emphatically stated that he had no need of the offer.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;For ye ken,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;that I&rsquo;m a
-prudent mon, and never venture outside o&rsquo; the coach, unless
-I have a&rsquo; the comforts o&rsquo; the inside about me;
-there&rsquo;s ne&rsquo;er a mon, sir, shut up in that unhealthy
-box, ye may ken, but is caulder than mysel; and I guess,
-fra&rsquo; the garments on your person, that ye&rsquo;re no quite
-sae warm.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Why thin if I was, I&rsquo;d be thinking myself <a
-name="page26"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 26</span>nearer to a
-certain personage than I have any inclination to be for the next
-half century.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;But ye ken that extremes meet; and I think by that
-calculation ye may be nearer to the friend ye mention than I am,
-seeing that I am but just comfortable, and ye are near the
-freezing point.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Having uttered this sarcasm upon his shivering companion, the
-canny Scot replaced the muffler over his lips, as a signal for
-silence, while the Irishman, taking another draught from his
-pocket pistol, sang a stanza of Erin go bragh, and consoled
-himself with striking a light for his cigar, from which he sent
-clouds of smoke, which made our travelling convenience resemble,
-in the gloom, a steam carriage, as it flew along, with nearly as
-great rapidity; the lighted end serving, as a warming pan to his
-nose, which thus illuminated, seemed not much unlike a blue
-light, such as mariners burn for signals of distress.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I beg your pardon, Mr. Boxer,&rdquo; said he, touching
-me on the shoulder, &ldquo;but are you a politician?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Why, to say the truth, sir,&rdquo; I replied, &ldquo;I
-interfere as little as possible with what, I conceive, wiser
-heads than mine are greatly puzzled.&rdquo;</p>
-<p><a name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-27</span>&ldquo;Why that&rsquo;s true, sure enough,&rdquo;
-continued he, &ldquo;but may be you&rsquo;ve heard of
-the&mdash;holloa!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Here he was interrupted by his bulky companion, whom a lurch
-of the coach had flung heavily upon him as he was leaning forward
-to reach my ear.&nbsp; The Scotchman had fallen asleep, and
-effectually prevented his neighbour from regaining his sitting
-posture, by the weight of his body and its envelopes.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Blood an&rsquo; &rsquo;ounds, man, what are ye
-about?&rdquo; roared my friend in the thin inexpressibles.&nbsp;
-&ldquo;Sure I might as well be porter to Atlas himself, and carry
-his load.&nbsp; Will you get up, if you please?&nbsp; By the
-shade of O&rsquo;Donahue, but I&rsquo;ll create a connexion
-betwixt your nose and the lighted end of my cigar, if you
-don&rsquo;t let me up.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>A sonorous grunt, which drowned the rattle of the coach
-wheels, was the only reply to this appeal, and Paddy being
-unacquainted with the language, immediately put his threat into
-execution.&nbsp; I have said before it was a cold night, and
-Sandy, who naturally enough started, at the application of the
-cigar to his proboscis, from his ideal world to a dreamy
-consciousness of his real <a name="page28"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 28</span>situation, placing his hand on the
-injured part, exclaimed, still half bewildered, &ldquo;Eh!
-that&rsquo;s vera true, indeed.&nbsp; It&rsquo;s a cauld night,
-and I verily believe that my nose is frost-bitten.&nbsp; I maun
-pit t&rsquo;other shawl round it;&rdquo; saying which he dragged
-one from his pocket, and was completely enveloped, apparently to
-suffocation.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Why then, I&rsquo;ve heard of salamanders, but Scotland
-must be mighty cauld since you left it,&rdquo; said my thinly
-clad fellow traveller, when a half smothered voice spoke through
-the rolls of shawls and silk handkerchiefs.&nbsp; &ldquo;Do you
-find yoursel&rsquo; sae hot in my company?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>The castinet-like sounds of the Irishman&rsquo;s teeth was the
-only reply to this question, and silence ensued.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;What column is that we are approaching,
-coachman?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Why that, sir, is a pillar.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Thank ye; but what was it placed there for?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Why, sir, it was put there by subscription, as a
-compliment to Lord Hill.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Oh, indeed!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>The column is of the Doric order, rising from a base.&nbsp;
-The angles are ornamented with lions <a name="page29"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 29</span>couchant, and the height of the
-pillar is 132 feet; upon its summit was placed a figure which old
-Push-along assured me was a fine likeness of old Rowley; it was
-erected in 1814.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Blow the horn, Ned, will you!&rdquo;&nbsp; And now,
-rattling over stones, through streets crowded with youthful
-idlers assembled to catch a sight of the new comers, we rapidly
-approached the inn.&nbsp; In a moment more we were at the gate of
-the Lion.</p>
-<p>A good supper and a comfortable bed made amends for the bad
-dinner and the cold ride, and in the morning I arose much
-refreshed, and sallied forth to view the town.</p>
-<h2><a name="page30"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-30</span>CHAPTER II.</h2>
-<p class="gutsumm">Walk to Montford Bridge&mdash;The
-Severn&mdash;An agreeable companion&mdash;Delights of a
-Tourist&mdash;Histrionic Ambition&mdash;Wittington&mdash;The
-Castle&mdash;The Church&mdash;Curious Epitaphs.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Oh Wittington, among thy towers<br />
-Pleas&rsquo;d did my early childhood stray,<br />
-Bask&rsquo;d on thy walls in sunny hours<br />
-And pull&rsquo;d thy moss and pluck&rsquo;d thy flowers<br />
-Full many a truant day.&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: right">FITZ-GWARINE.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p><span class="smcap">After</span> breakfasting at the inn, I,
-like the honorable Dick Dowlass, with my wardrobe on my back, and
-a light heart, proceeded on the road to Chirk.</p>
-<p>The Severn, to the right, winded beautifully towards the
-ancient town I left behind.&nbsp; Bees hummed&mdash;birds
-sang&mdash;and blossoms sent forth <a name="page31"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 31</span>their fragrance to delight the
-traveller as he gaily trudged &ldquo;the footpath
-way.&rdquo;&nbsp; Cheerfulness was above, beneath, around me, and
-in my heart.&nbsp; I paused upon the bridge at Montford, to take
-a lingering farewell of the sweet flowing Severn, its wooded
-banks and meadows gay; and was about to commence a sublime
-soliloquy, when I was accosted by an elderly personage in a straw
-hat, fustian shooting coat, knee-breeches, gaiters and
-shoes.&nbsp; He had a stout cudgel in his hand, and a knapsack,
-more capacious than mine, strapped across his shoulders.&nbsp; He
-appeared to be about fifty-five years of age, and being furnished
-like myself, it struck me that a passing traveller might
-naturally enough take us for father and son.</p>
-<p>Fortunately we were both pursuing the same route, and a
-desultory dialogue commenced with the never failing
-observation:</p>
-<p>&ldquo;A fine morning, sir.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Very.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;A noble river this, sir?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Beautiful.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;A great admirer of the charms of nature, I presume,
-sir?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;An enthusiastic one.&rdquo;</p>
-<p><a name="page32"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-32</span>&ldquo;You&rsquo;re for the Welsh vales, I
-suppose?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;And mountains high!&rdquo; I exclaimed, warming to my
-loquacious companion.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;In the Welsh vales &rsquo;mid mountains
-high,&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>sang he, in a hearty, round-toned voice, with which I chimed
-in, and we were the best friends, on a sudden.</p>
-<p>There certainly is no society so interesting as that picked up
-by the tourist, who leaves with contempt the starched formalities
-of a great city behind him, and walks forth, unencumbered by
-care, to enjoy the society of mankind in its varied and
-unsophisticated nature.&nbsp; Every person we meet affords us
-information and delight; for a kindred spirit animates almost
-every individual whom you may chance to encounter in countries
-remarkable for beauties of scenery, and especially in a region
-like North Wales, where inns of the best kind are situated at the
-most convenient points, and the foot passenger is treated with as
-much respect as a lord in his carriage with four post
-horses.&nbsp; The landlords of inns here, think that a man may
-make the proper use of his legs without being a beggar; and that
-<a name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 33</span>the
-costume of a pedestrian may cover the form of a gentleman.&nbsp;
-And this philanthropic conception contributes to form that happy
-combination, civil hosts and merry travellers.</p>
-<p>There is no want of society, nor any difficulty in selecting
-that with which you are best pleased, for every evening brings in
-fresh comers from various quarters to the different places of
-rest and refreshment.&nbsp; The exchange of information
-respecting routes, the different adventures of the day, the
-peculiar feelings displayed in their recital, and countenances
-lit up with pleasure, give a degree of animation to the evening,
-never to be equalled in the brilliant drawing-room, the blaze of
-which seems to put out the eyes of reason,</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;And men are&mdash;what they name not to
-themselves,<br />
-And trust not to each other.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>I soon discovered that my companion was a traveller of no
-common information; that he was a collector of legends, an
-antiquarian, and a geologist; and congratulated myself upon
-meeting with one who, as he gave me to understand, was intimately
-acquainted with a variety of circumstances, <a
-name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>not generally
-known, which had taken place in &ldquo;days of yore,&rdquo; upon
-the very ground we were about to traverse, and which he had
-frequently visited before.</p>
-<p>He had been an actor in his youth, and as the scenery between
-Mountford Bridge and the village of Wittington has little to
-engage the attention, I will here relate a portion of his early
-history, with which he amused me during our journey.</p>
-<h3>HISTRIONIC AMBITION.</h3>
-<p>It was a foggy morning when Triptolemus,&mdash;for so I shall
-designate my new acquaintance,&mdash;who had unfortunately been
-deeply bitten by a mad actor, arose, feverish from his sleepless
-pillow, to awaken the cocks of the surrounding neighbourhood with
-the loud rattle of his histrionic tongue.&nbsp; He had, with some
-difficulty, prevailed upon the manager of the theatre to permit
-him to make his appearance on the stage, and the character
-selected for his attempt was Richmond&mdash;the gallant
-Richmond!</p>
-<p>In the centre of the filthy town of &mdash; stands an ancient
-castle, situated upon a lofty hill, which is now turned into a
-county jail.&nbsp; There <a name="page35"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 35</span>was around it formerly a deep moat,
-which having for many years been dried up, is now converted into
-pleasure gardens for the corporation.&nbsp; From the top of the
-hill there was, at this time, an opening, much like a trap door,
-where commenced a descent by winding steps, leading to the
-gardens beneath, and to some gates made in the iron railings that
-encompassed the moat upon the other side.</p>
-<p>Upon the summit of the hill, Triptolemus walked with all the
-dignity of an English baron.&nbsp; The ancient fortress, that
-frowned above him, gave additional fire to his excited
-imagination; and, as he spoke of knights and fellows in arms, and
-mused of war, banners, and crop ear&rsquo;d steeds, the present
-peaceful times were dead to him, and nothing lived within his
-gallant thoughts but those whose bones have long since whitened
-in the dust.</p>
-<p>Triptolemus had walked round, and round again, about the
-distance of half a mile, spouting Shakespeare to &ldquo;the
-unconscious wind,&rdquo; when, as he was about to take
-&ldquo;round the third,&rdquo; instead of looking at the earth,
-his inspired glance was directed to the sky; and at the instant
-he exclaimed, &ldquo;thus far into the <a name="page36"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 36</span>bowels of the land,&rdquo; he
-vanished into the earth through the before mentioned trap door!
-and awakening from his surprize, he found himself half smothered
-in a bed of manure, at the bottom of the steps.&mdash;When he had
-in some degree recovered from his alarm, and ascertained that his
-person had escaped injury, his first reflection was upon the fall
-of Lucifer,</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;From night to morn&mdash;from morn to dewy
-eve,<br />
-A summer&rsquo;s day!&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>He then looked round him and fancied himself in
-Johnson&rsquo;s happy valley, himself the prince, and, like him,
-discontented with his lot, when he was suddenly aroused to a
-sense of his real situation by the pointed application of a
-pitchfork, unceremoniously handled by a sturdy boor, who saluted
-him with, &ldquo;Where the devil didst thee come
-from?&rdquo;&nbsp; His indignant spirit now gave vent to its
-uncontrollable fury, in a torrent of blank verse!&nbsp; He felt
-that, like Hamlet, he could</p>
-
-<blockquote><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&ldquo;Do
-such deeds<br />
-As hell itself would quake to look upon.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>But, like Posthumous, he was doubtful which to <a
-name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 37</span>select.&nbsp;
-His soul was in arms!&mdash;and the thrice valiant embryo
-Richmond exclaimed,</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Thrice is he arm&rsquo;d that hath his
-quarrel just;<br />
-And he but naked, tho&rsquo; lock&rsquo;d up in steel,<br />
-Whose conscience with injustice is corrupted.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;I fell into this damned place through your neglect in
-leaving the trap door open, you bloody and devouring
-boar,&rdquo;&mdash;eyeing him all the while with a glance that
-seemed to say, &ldquo;If I thought you wholesome, I&rsquo;d turn
-cannibal.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>The bumkin, however, took no further notice of it than to
-assure him, if he did not presently take to his heels, he would
-toss him out on the prongs of his fork.</p>
-<p>O! what a field for fancy did this threat open to his
-susceptible mind!&nbsp; The tattered hat of the unceremonious
-gardener was converted into a coronet of snakes that reared their
-threatening crests and hissed furiously at the astonished
-hero.&nbsp; His ruddy face assumed the Gorgon&rsquo;s look,
-turning him almost into stone.&nbsp; The weapon in his hand grew
-fiery red, and for a foot there seemed a cloven hoof.</p>
-<p>An attempted application of the torturing steel <a
-name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 38</span>however, gave
-motion to his limbs;&mdash;away he scampered up the steep ascent,
-not daring to turn a solitary glance behind, until he reached the
-spot from whence he fell.</p>
-<p>This accident conjured up a train of reflections upon the
-vanity of human wishes!&nbsp; &ldquo;Alas!&rdquo; exclaimed he,
-&ldquo;it is but a few minutes since I fancied myself a hero at
-the head of a victorious army, before which thousands would turn
-and fly, or grimly bite the dust; and now I find myself a
-wretched thing! routed by a base born hind with a muck fork in
-his hand!&nbsp; Oh! vile disgrace!&nbsp; I only wish that fellow
-may see me on the boards to-morrow night&mdash;I&rsquo;ll frown
-him into a liquid.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Upon the night of this eventful morning the stage-struck
-Triptolemus had very unquiet dreams; his head was filled, he
-said, with a chaotic mass of indistinct and indescribable
-objects.&nbsp; The last thought he had while awake was how he
-should look when dressed as the gallant Richmond;&mdash;and
-having settled that point to his own satisfaction, he resigned
-himself to</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Sweet Nature&rsquo;s second
-course.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>He waves aloft his glittering steel&mdash;he spurs his <a
-name="page39"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 39</span>coal black
-charger to the field.&mdash;Forward! he cries&mdash;and the
-hostile ranks advance in terrible array, inspired by their heroic
-leader!&nbsp; All then becomes hubbub, turmoil and confusion,
-higglety pigglety, up and down, slash away work.&nbsp; He meets
-the tyrant king&mdash;fiercely they struggle for the
-mastery&mdash;slap bang go their battle axes; when suddenly a
-number of shadowy forms, with blood-red cabbage-heads, encircle
-the enfuriated pair, yelling and dancing at the white-rose
-king;&mdash;the gallant Richmond staggers beneath the prowess of
-his vigorous opponent, and half believes the field is lost, when
-through the spectre group a headless horseman breaks with furious
-speed.&mdash;&rsquo;Tis Buckingham!&mdash;he waves his gory head
-aloft in his red hand, and as Tydides whirled the fragment of a
-rock upon his foe, even with such fury flung the shade his head,
-full upon the visage of his fated Richard;&mdash;he
-falls&mdash;the shadows vanish with loud cries of joy! when
-suddenly a dreadful blow is dealt upon the temples of the
-conquering Richmond;&mdash;the chains of sleep are broken, and
-Triptolemus lies stretched upon the floor.</p>
-<p>He arose confused; he pondered upon his dream, rubbed his
-bruised forehead, and began <a name="page40"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 40</span>conclusions from the visions of the
-night.&nbsp; These proving satisfactory, he descended to the
-breakfast parlour, inwardly exclaiming,</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;May good digestion wait on
-appetite.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The rehearsal in the morning gave additional confidence, the
-manager having pronounced it a very promising specimen of his
-ability.</p>
-<p>Night came&mdash;and he was at his post three hours before his
-presence would be required upon the stage.&nbsp; His hair, of
-which he had a great profusion, was twisted into innumerable
-curls by a one-eyed frizzeur who received a payment of twelve
-pence per night from the manager for decorating the heads of his
-talented performers; his limbs were cased in the warlike
-habiliments of the 15th century, which (with the trifling
-inconvenience, occasioned by their being made for a person of
-nearly double his dimensions some twenty years before, and the
-few dilapidations they had received from the numberless falls,
-thwacks, rents, etc. during their long and faithful servitude)
-gave him the appearance of a warrior of some personal
-endowments.&nbsp; The helmet was peculiarly formed, resembling
-that worn in <a name="page41"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-41</span>the 14th century; for this appendage to the son of Mars
-had been neglected until the very last moment, when it was
-supposed to be impossible to procure one; but Triptolemus, ever
-fertile in resources, seized upon a shining tin saucepan, in
-which the Duke of Buckingham had brought some barley water to the
-theatre for the purpose of clearing his voice, emptied its
-contents, and having divested it of its handle, made of it an
-admirable completion to his costume.&nbsp; At the end of the
-first act, he walked, with all the self possession of a veteran
-stager, into an apartment called the green-room, but which
-exhibited a clear face of white-wash, emblematic of those who
-frequented its chaste precincts.&nbsp; It was furnished with
-chairs, stools, and a huge family sofa, evidently the work of the
-&ldquo;olden time.&rdquo;&nbsp; This seemed a seat suited to
-Triptolemus, puffed out as he was with the pride of his
-appearance; but unfortunately the light comedian, when playing
-the part of Doricourt, fell so heavily upon it, in the mad scene,
-that he made a fatal breach in the bottom, which as yet had not
-undergone a repair.&nbsp; King Henry the sixth (a short, stout,
-pompous man, who never moved but one arm in acting, and that with
-the exact motion of a pump <a name="page42"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 42</span>handle) was seated on one side of the
-fire place, in an altitude of deep thought.&nbsp; Triptolemus
-remembered his dream, and was astonished at the close resemblance
-between the red cabbage head of the shadow and the rubicund
-visage of the portly personage in the chimney corner.&nbsp; His
-surprise was the greater for that he had not met this gentleman
-at the rehearsal, he having sent an apology for his absence,
-being hotly engaged (as he termed it) in <i>making his
-benefit</i>, i.e. paying his respects to the different taverns in
-the town, where his merry associates congregated to drink porter,
-smoke tobacco, and distribute as many tickets as an insinuating
-address and consummate assurance would enable them to dispose of
-amongst their boon companions.</p>
-<p>The fourth act is over; and Triptolemus experiences a strange
-sensation rising from the bottom of his abdomen and gradually
-spreading itself over his whole body!&mdash;he feels less valiant
-than when first he donned the shining helmet (alias saucepan) and
-fastened the glittering falchion to his mailed side.&nbsp; Ting a
-ring ting! goes the prompter&rsquo;s bell!&nbsp; Triptolemus was
-trembling at his post.&nbsp; The music ceases&mdash;the curtain
-rises&mdash;the martial music is played loudly behind <a
-name="page43"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 43</span>the scenes,
-and the audience with breathless anxiety await the entrance of
-the dauntless hero, the brave Earl of Richmond.</p>
-<p>The trumpeters have almost split their cheeks,&mdash;the
-troops march on, two and two&mdash;the Earl of Oxford then
-advances, next Sir James Blunt, and then Sir Walter
-Herbert.&nbsp; Triptolemus who had been advised to appear last,
-and with a rush to &ldquo;take the natives by surprise,&rdquo; as
-it is termed in theatrical phraseology, now darted forward to the
-footlights, &ldquo;swift as an arrow from the Tartar
-bow.&rdquo;&nbsp; The applause was deafening, and made him fancy
-that the gods were at war above him; nor was he much out in his
-conceit, for a chimney sweeper who had edged himself into the
-centre of the gallery at that moment, caused such a commotion
-amongst the goddesses, that they assisted, with their screams,
-the general uproar, and shouts and cat calls &ldquo;shook the
-pond&rsquo;rous roof.&rdquo;&nbsp; This state of commotion was
-too violent to last, and at length silence was obtained, and the
-hero commenced&mdash;</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Thus far into the bowels of the
-land&mdash;&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Here the figure of the uncivil gardener met <a
-name="page44"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 44</span>his eyes,
-seated in the front row of the pit, and grinning like a Scotch
-terrier with a hair-lip.&nbsp; He made a full stop at this
-apparition!&nbsp; &ldquo;Have we marched on,&rdquo; came the word
-from the prompter&mdash;&ldquo;Have we marched
-on,&rdquo;&mdash;echoed Oxford.&nbsp; But all was mist before
-Richmond&rsquo;s eyes, indignation was in his heart and silence
-upon his tongue.&nbsp; Unable to utter a word more, with a
-flourish of his truncheon he made a furious exit.&nbsp;
-&ldquo;Have we marched off,&rdquo; said the gallant
-Blunt&mdash;and stalked off with the whole army (six in number)
-after his heroic leader.&nbsp; The scene changed for
-Richard&rsquo;s entrance.&mdash;Shame and fury battledoor&rsquo;d
-our hero about with unmerciful rapidity behind the scenes!&nbsp;
-He split his wooden truncheon upon the scull of an unlucky
-lamplighter who stood in his way, and then the call boy&rsquo;s
-awful voice was heard bidding him prepare for his second
-scene.&nbsp; This he managed to get through tolerably well,
-taking especial care to avoid another glance at the
-gardener&rsquo;s fatal countenance.</p>
-<p>All went on smoothly enough, until the scene where Richard
-rushes on the stage in the midst of alarums, crying out.&nbsp;
-&ldquo;What ho! young Richmond ho!&rdquo;&nbsp; Here, as ill luck
-would have it, Richmond could not find his <i>fighting sword</i>,
-<a name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 45</span>and his
-confusion was so great, when Richard again roared out,
-&ldquo;&rsquo;Tis Richard calls!&rdquo; Richmond rebellowed from
-behind the scenes, &ldquo;Call and be d&mdash;d,&rdquo; thinking
-the actor was taking an unwarrantable liberty in calling for him
-before so many people in such an authoritative style.</p>
-<p><i>Richard</i>.&nbsp; &ldquo;I say come forth, and singly face
-me.&rdquo;</p>
-<p><i>Richmond</i>, (behind) &ldquo;What the devil&rsquo;s the
-use of my coming, when I can&rsquo;t find my sword?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>At length, the combatants met, Richmond having picked up a
-powerful weapon, instead of the short, blunt and harmless sword
-intended for the encounter.&nbsp; It was keen, long, and pointed,
-like a lancet&mdash;a terrible weapon in unpractised hands.</p>
-<p><i>Richard</i>.&nbsp; &ldquo;Do you remember the cuts?&rdquo;
-(in an undertone, with doubting fear).</p>
-<p><i>Richmond</i>.&nbsp; &ldquo;Oh, d&mdash;n the cuts!&rdquo;
-at the same time dealing a blow that laid open the shin of the
-crook backed tyrant, who, thinking it better to die at once in
-jest, than to be killed outright in earnest, fell down
-exclaiming, &ldquo;Perdition catch thy arm! you&rsquo;ve cut my
-leg open!&rdquo;</p>
-<p><a name="page46"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-46</span><i>Richmond</i>.&nbsp; &ldquo;Upon my soul, I
-could&rsquo;nt help it!&rdquo;</p>
-<p><i>Richard</i>.&nbsp; &ldquo;But oh&mdash;! the vast renown
-thou hast acquired&mdash;&rdquo;</p>
-<p>This was too much for the audience to bear&mdash;&ldquo;their
-visible muscles unmasterly grew,&rdquo; and the champions were
-mutually discomposed.</p>
-<p><i>Richmond</i>.&nbsp; &ldquo;What the devil are they laughing
-at?&rdquo;</p>
-<p><i>Richard</i>.&nbsp; &ldquo;At you to be sure, &lsquo;in
-conquering Richard.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Here another burst of merriment broke from the spectators, and
-Triptolemus, turning his head, to check, with a high tragedy
-look, their ill timed mirth, beheld, to his horror and dismay,
-the inveterate gardener standing upon the front bench of the pit,
-waving his arms like the sails of a windmill, and who no sooner
-caught a full view of his countenance than he roared out,
-&ldquo;I&rsquo;m blest if it bea&rsquo;nt he that I turned up
-wi&rsquo; my pitch fork out of the muck heap!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;All&rsquo;s over!&rdquo; exclaimed Richard, and gave up
-the ghost, with his back turned to the audience, which created a
-fresh peal of laughter, groans and hisses.&nbsp; Richmond,
-shocked <a name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 47</span>at
-the un-Cesarian position of the monarch, strove to obtain
-silence, while he spoke the tag, by turning him over with his
-face to the footlights&mdash;which he did with his foot, placing
-Richard&rsquo;s nose within half an inch of the burning oil, who
-grinned his disapprobation of such usage, till the audience
-shrieked with mirth.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Ring down the curtain, for God&rsquo;s sake!&rdquo;
-shrieked the manager.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Stop till I&rsquo;ve spoken the tag!&rdquo; cried
-Richmond.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Ring down for the sake of my nose,&rdquo; bawled the
-corpse.&nbsp; Ting a ring ting! went the prompter&rsquo;s bell,
-and down fell the curtain, leaving one half of Richard&rsquo;s
-body in view of the laughter-weeping spectators, which was at
-last dragged by the heels from their sight by the indignant
-Richmond, vowing, he never would again act with so diabolical a
-<i>Richard</i>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>This story, which amused me exceedingly, was during the
-recital often interrupted by my hearty bursts of laughter, and
-beguiled the time admirably, until we arrived at a miserable
-place called <i>New Inn</i>, where we refreshed ourselves with a
-glass of ale, and proceeded on our journey.</p>
-<p><a name="page48"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-48</span>Branching off from the Oswestry road, to the right, we
-pursued our way to Wittington, beguiling the time with anecdote
-and song, light hearts and heels carrying us along the road like
-things of air.&nbsp; Nothing worthy of notice took place until we
-reached the village of Wittington, and there the first objects
-that attracted our mutual attention, were two brick houses,
-perfectly plain in their exterior, upon the front of the first of
-which was written, in prodigious characters, <i>Search the
-Scriptures</i>, and upon the second, <i>Remember thou keep holy
-the Sabbath day</i>, with underneath, <i>Morrison&rsquo;s pills
-sold here</i>.</p>
-<p>The village is beautifully intersected with trees, and the
-houses are examples of neatness and simplicity.&nbsp; The people
-look cheerful and contented; and every shrub or flower which here
-profusely expands, seems proudly to rejoice and flourish in this
-charming retreat.</p>
-<p>A walk through this village will make the tourist thoroughly
-acquainted, in his own belief, with the persons who inhabit it,
-although he never heard the history of one of them, from the
-rector to the tinker.&nbsp; The first portrait that rises in his
-imagination is the venerable curate, with contentment beaming in
-his mild eyes, his silver <a name="page49"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 49</span>locks flowing over his well-brushed
-thread-bare coat, with snow-white neck-cloth, mended small
-clothes, black hose and polished shoes, visiting the cottage of
-some invalid&mdash;a lovely girl, scarce sixteen, the rose of the
-village, who had long been stretched upon a bed of sickness, but
-now blessed with returning health, seated at the door, the fresh
-evening air playing with her fair locks, the woodbine clustering
-over her head, a slight tinge of vermilion spreading on her
-cheeks, her eyes upraised in pious gratitude to heaven, and to
-him who prayed beside her, and for her, morning and evening, and
-who now with grateful heart holds up his hands to the Creator, in
-thankfulness for her convalescence.</p>
-<p>The next object is the village surgeon; a busy, merry,
-bustling, prying, talkative, little gentleman, who amuses one
-patient with all the scandal he has been able to pick up about
-another; but, notwithstanding, a most important person, and
-people feign illness for the gratification his visits
-communicate; constant in his morning calls from house to house,
-he continues to pick up all the flying rumours of the day; and at
-night is, of course, the object looked up to, in all parties, as
-the oracle, in whom all the <a name="page50"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 50</span>secrets of the village are deposited,
-while he is cautious not to commit himself, by imprudent
-exposures.</p>
-<p>Then comes the lawyer, with snuff-coloured riding coat with
-brass buttons, top-booted, and spurred, who does very well for
-himself, by <i>doing</i> his neighbours in a professional
-way.</p>
-<p>Then come the ladies, who are of course all nature, no art,
-sweetness, simplicity, and all that; but as I am not going to
-write a volume upon rural life, I will just give a short
-description of</p>
-<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">WITTINGTON CASTLE.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;In ancient days, of high renown,<br />
-Not always did yon castle frown<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; With ivy crested brow;<br />
-Nor were its walls with moss embrowned,<br />
-Nor hung the lanky weeds around<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; That fringe its ruins now.&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: right"><span
-class="smcap">Fitz-Gwarine</span>.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>In the year 843, when Roderick the Great was King of Wales, a
-British noble, named Ynyr ap Cadfarch, built the Castle of
-Wittington.&nbsp; He was succeeded by his son Tudor Trevor, <a
-name="page51"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 51</span>whose
-descendants possessed it for many generations; and many families
-at this day trace their origin to him.</p>
-<p>At the Conquest, Wittington became the property of Pain
-Peveril, who dying without issue, it was seized by Roger, Earl of
-Shrewsbury, and passed into the hands of Hugh, his son, who was
-succeeded by his brother Robert; but he being defeated by Henry
-I, the castle was restored to the Peverils, in the person of Sir
-William Peveril, who was a great warrior, and is said to have
-miraculously recovered from a (supposed) <i>mortal wound</i> by
-eating the shield of a wild boar.&nbsp; He had a daughter named
-Mellet, whose exceeding beauty attracted many suitors; but, being
-of Amazonian mind, she declared she would marry none but the
-knight who proved himself best and bravest in the field.&nbsp;
-Her father published this declaration, and promised the Castle of
-Wittington as her dower.&nbsp; The trial took place at the Peak
-in Derbyshire, and Guarine de Metz, who had a shield of silver,
-and a peacock crest, overcame all his rivals, and obtained the
-beautiful Mellet.&nbsp; His posterity, for nine generations,
-assumed the name of Fulk, a race of heroes who performed
-extraordinary feats of arms, and for <a name="page52"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 52</span>a full account of which the reader is
-referred to the history of Wittington, a little book of forty-one
-pages, by William Davies, L.M.W.S., Head Master of Caernarven
-School.</p>
-<p>The ninth, and last Fulk Fitz Gwarine, died here in his
-minority, in the reign of Henry IV, and his sister Elizabeth, the
-heiress to the estates, married Richard Hankfdd, who left his
-possessions to his only daughter Thomasine, who married Sir
-William Bourchire, brother to Henry, the first Earl of Essex; and
-the title of Lord Fitz Warine was given to Sir William, in
-consequence of his marriage.</p>
-<p>John, the third in descent from him, exchanged Wittington with
-Henry VIII for other landed property.&nbsp; This John was the
-first Earl of Bath, and his family retained the name of
-Fitz-Warren until the race became extinct, which took place at
-the death of Henry, the fifth Earl of Bath.&nbsp; This place was
-presented by Elizabeth, to Henry Grey Duke of Suffolk, who
-fortified it in consequence of several crimes imputed to him by
-the bigot Mary, who granted it to Fitz-Alan, the last Earl of
-Arundel, who mortgaged it to a number of London citizens, and
-William Albany, the chief amongst them was appointed <a
-name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>sole
-possessor of it, and by the marriage of whose grand daughter it
-fell into the hands of Thomas Lloyd Aston Esq. in whose family it
-now remains.</p>
-<p>The castle underwent fortification soon after its original
-establishment; and must have been alternately in the hands of the
-Welsh and Saxons in these wars.&nbsp; It is well supplied with
-spring water, and the moats, and entrenchments surrounding the
-castle are still discernible.&nbsp; The keep was fortified with
-five round towers, each 40 feet in diameter and 100 in height,
-the walls being 12 feet in thickness.&mdash;All are now in
-ruins.</p>
-<p>In 1809, a well was discovered in the Keep, at the bottom of
-which was found a pair of iron fetters for the legs, and a jug,
-stags&rsquo; heads, swords, a head curiously carved, and a number
-of richly gilt glass bottles.&nbsp; In the trenches there are
-growing some very fine tall wych trees.&nbsp; The castle is
-situated in the midst of fertile meadows; and a rapid stream,
-which a mile above takes a subterranean course, here breaks into
-light again, amidst fringing poplars, and entering the moat,
-encompasses the walls, which are richly festooned with ivy, and
-adorned with wild flowers <a name="page54"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 54</span>and woodbines.&nbsp; It there enters
-the Perry, in the meadows below, which were formerly an extensive
-lake, and the ancient fosses and entrenchments may be traced to
-where the lake terminated, at a surprising distance westward,
-beyond the castle.</p>
-<p>The church is a rectory, and was originally designed as a
-chapel to the castle.&nbsp; It is dedicated to St. John the
-Baptist.&nbsp; The body of the church was rebuilt in 1806, and in
-the register are the following curious epitaphs:</p>
-<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">March 13, 1766, died<br
-/>
-<span class="smcap">Thomas Evans</span>,<br />
-Parish Clerke, Aged 72.</p>
-<p>Old Stanhold&rsquo;s lines or Vicar of Bray.<br />
-Which he tuned best, &rsquo;twas hard to say.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">Samuel
-Peate</span>,<br />
-Of Wittington Castle, died<br />
-Aged 84.</p>
-<p>Here lies Governor Peate,<br />
-Whom no man did hate.<br />
-At the age of fourscore,<br />
-And four years more.<br />
-He pretended to wrestle<br />
-With Death for his castle,<br />
-<a name="page55"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 55</span>But was
-soon out of breath,<br />
-And surrendered to Death,<br />
-Who away did him take<br />
-At the eve of our wake,<br />
-One morn about seven,<br />
-To keep wake in Heaven.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">Andrew
-Williams</span><br />
-was<br />
-Born A.D 1692, and died April 18, 1776.<br />
-Aged 84.<br />
-Of which time he lived under<br />
-The Aston family, as decoy man, 60 years.</p>
-<p>Here lies the decoy man, who lived like an otter,<br />
-Dividing his time betwixt land and water.<br />
-His hide he oft soaked in the waters of Perry,<br />
-Whilst Aston old beer his spirits kept cherry.<br />
-Amphibious his trim, death was puzzled they say<br />
-How to dust to reduce such well moistened clay,<br />
-So death turned decoy man, and decoyed him to land,<br />
-Where he fixed his abode till quite dried to the hand.<br />
-He then found him fitting for crumbling to dust,<br />
-So here he lies mouldering, as you and I must.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>In this lovely village, we put up at a small inn, the Crown,
-to take luncheon, which was <a name="page56"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 56</span>served with much civility&mdash;cold
-meat, a cream salad, and a capital Cheshire cheese, with the very
-best of Shropshire ale.&nbsp; The name of the host I have
-forgotten, but it is the first inn on the left on entering the
-village from Shrewsbury.&nbsp; It has a delightful garden
-attached to it, with grottos and arbours; roses and woodbines
-distribute their fragrance in prodigal gratuity, and the <i>tout
-ensemble</i> gives an admirable idea of fairy land.</p>
-<h2><a name="page57"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-57</span>CHAPTER III.</h2>
-<p class="gutsumm">Chirk&mdash;The Aqueduct&mdash;The Deserted, a
-legend&mdash;Description of Chirk Castle&mdash;Sketch&mdash;The
-Park&mdash;Legend of the enchanted Stag&mdash;The Vale of
-Llangollen&mdash;Account of the Aqueduct called
-Pont-y-Cyssyltau&mdash;Stanzas for
-music&mdash;Llangollen&mdash;The Hand in Hand&mdash;A view of the
-village.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&ldquo;In Cambria&rsquo;s noon
-of story,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Ere bright she set in glory,<br />
-The brave and great in princely state<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; All hail&rsquo;d Chirk Castle walls.<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; With splendid arms returning,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; The flaring moonbeams burning,<br />
-Mid armour&rsquo;s clang the clarions rang,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And searched the sounding halls.&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: right"><span class="GutSmall">SONG BY F. M.
-DOVASTON, A.M.</span></p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>A <span class="smcap">pleasant</span> walk of six miles
-brought us to Chirk; agreeably situated upon the northern bank of
-the river Ceriog, which divides England <a
-name="page58"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 58</span>from
-Wales.&nbsp; The village church is dedicated to St. Mary, and is
-an impropriation belonging to Valle Crucis Abbey, and contains
-some monuments erected to the memory of the members of the Chirk
-families.&nbsp; The most interesting is that of the famous Sir
-Thomas Myddleton.&nbsp; The church-yard is planted with yew
-trees, and the Hand Inn is a very comfortable house of
-entertainment.</p>
-<p>The aqueduct is the great <i>lion</i> of this place;
-consisting of ten arches, the piers of which are sixty-five feet
-high.&nbsp; The Ellesmere canal is continued across the valley by
-this beautiful specimen of art, then enters a tunnel 220 yards
-long; emerging from which it proceeds on its course through the
-parish, and then enters another tunnel, which having traversed,
-its waters are transported over the vale of the Dee by the
-stupendous aqueduct of Pont-y-Cysylltau.&nbsp; The village of
-Chirk is seven miles from Llangollen, and five from Oswestry,
-from Knaton six, and from London 171.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Upon this spot,&rdquo; said my amusing companion,
-&ldquo;a legend was repeated to me, which I thought rather
-amusing; and, as you say you are a collector of strange stories,
-I will relate it <a name="page59"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-59</span>to you as we pass along, with as much accuracy as my
-memory will permit.&rdquo;</p>
-<h3>THE DESERTED.</h3>
-<p>Mary Griffith was a tall, raw-boned, bouncing girl, whose skin
-had felt the influence of nineteen summers: with red ropy hair,
-which fell in mop-like luxuriance about her face and back,
-partially hiding two gooseberry eyes, that looked, or seemed to
-look, in opposite directions.&nbsp; Roger ap Morgan was a stout,
-sturdy, hard-working peasant: and once, while under the influence
-of his master&rsquo;s strong harvest ale, bestowed on Mary such
-tender melting words, as had never before been addressed to her
-beauty, and which her unaccustomed ear drank with astonishment
-and delight.&nbsp; She greedily banqueted on the honey of his
-tongue, and in short was never so pleased in her life before.</p>
-<p>It was remarked, that from this night Mary and Roger were more
-intimate than ever; and they were therefore looked upon as a
-couple shortly to be united in the bands of matrimony.</p>
-<p><a name="page60"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-60</span>Mary&rsquo;s charms, however, were not of a nature to be
-unappreciated by others; and Roger&rsquo;s friends were
-exceedingly forward in praising her various perfections, and more
-especially the beauty of her eyes and face, and the silky
-softness of her auburn hair, three fibres of which were
-sufficient to have made an exceeding good twine of tolerable
-strength.</p>
-<p>Roger bore all these bursts of admiration without the
-slightest tinge of jealousy, and even sometimes, with a good
-humoured laugh, joined in the jests of his companions.&nbsp; But
-there is such a thing as over fondness in adoring woman: and
-Roger began to discover, that if Mary would only love him half as
-much as she did, he might perhaps have a far greater liking for
-her than he had; but unfortunately Mary knew no measure in her
-love.&nbsp; She vowed he should marry her; Roger swore heartily
-he would not.&nbsp; At length, it became apparent that Mary had
-yielded up not only her heart but her honour, also, to the too
-insidious and fascinating Roger.&nbsp; His ingratitude, in
-refusing to keep his word, and make an honest woman of her, sank
-deep into her heart.&nbsp; She resolved, however, not to let him
-off so easily; and determined, if he persisted in denying <a
-name="page61"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 61</span>his person,
-she would at least have some of his goods and chattels.</p>
-<p>At this period, a number of baronial laws, although dormant,
-might still be enforced on occasion, and amongst them was one
-which furnished Mary with a promising prospect of
-recompense.&nbsp; It decreed, that in cases of seduction, the
-injured fair, on making application to the presiding magistrate,
-was entitled to remuneration by submitting to the following
-ordeal:&mdash;The tail of a three years old bull, the property of
-the seducer, being well shaven, greased and introduced through a
-wicker door, if the applicant could, by so treacherous a handle,
-detain the animal for a certain period with both hands, while two
-men goaded it to escape, it became hers, by right of conquest, in
-satisfaction for her lost virtue; and, in case of failure, she
-forfeited all further claim, and was rewarded for her attempt
-with so much of the grease and soap as remained in her hands.</p>
-<p>Women know no medium in the master-passion: &ldquo;Where most
-they love, there most they hate when slighted:&rdquo;&mdash;and
-so with Molly.&nbsp; All nature seemed to change: the beautiful
-valley no longer heard the soft murmurings of Roger&rsquo;s <a
-name="page62"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 62</span>&ldquo;love
-breathed vows;&rdquo; the waters of the Ceriog flowed on without
-a rival sound; and Molly vowed vengeance amid their peaceful
-banks, where once she swore eternal love and constancy.</p>
-<p>One morning after a long expostulation, with her inconstant,
-she summoned him before the magistrate of the district, and,
-accompanied by her friends, demanded the ordeal, which was the
-right, from time immemorial, of the victims of seduction and
-desertion.&nbsp; The magistrate, being a lover of old laws and
-customs, and also somewhat of a humorist, readily acceded to her
-wishes, and the following morning was appointed for the
-accomplishment of her vengeance, verifying the Welsh
-proverb&mdash;&ldquo;Gnawd rhygas wedi rhysere.&rdquo;&nbsp;
-Common is extreme hate after extreme fondness.</p>
-<p>This was woful intelligence for Roger, whose farming stock
-consisted of an only cow, which was sentenced to be substituted
-for the <i>bull</i>, which the original act specified should be
-liable to confiscation.&nbsp; This cow was the chief source of
-his livelihood; her butter furnished him with the means of
-procuring clothes, and other necessaries, and the skimmed milk, a
-pleasant beverage <a name="page63"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-63</span>to wash down his vegetable fare&mdash;for animal food
-was a stranger to the table of Roger, as it was indeed to almost
-all the peasantry of the country, except upon days of rejoicing,
-viz. marriages and funerals, when friends and relations clubbed
-together to furnish a sumptuous meal for the assembled
-guests.&nbsp; Still, however, he resolved to hazard this severe
-loss, rather than be encumbered with a wife, whose industry and
-affection were but a poor compensation for the defects of her
-person and conversation.</p>
-<p>On the following day, the peaceful inhabitants of this lovely
-spot were startled from their various occupations by a loud shout
-which issued from the thick woods of the vale, and then</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;There rose so wild a yell<br />
-From out yon dark and hollow dell,<br />
-As all the fiends from heaven that fell<br />
-Had pealed the banner cry of hell.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The clamour was raised by the revilings of Roger&rsquo;s
-friends against Mary, and Mary&rsquo;s friends against Roger, as
-the object of interest (Roger&rsquo;s cow) approached the
-dwelling of the deceived and neglected fair one, who mounted
-astride upon its back, turned her fierce glances or <a
-name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 64</span>benignant
-smiles, upon her enemies or friends, as they alternately hooted
-and hurrahed her.</p>
-<p>Mary&rsquo;s mother, an ancient gammer, whose sun-tanned skin
-seemed, as Shakspeare has it, capable of</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Keeping out water a long while,&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>armed with a branch of tough ash, was urging the progress of
-the beast, and at every push she made, a yell of indignation
-burst from the opposite party, which was answered by a shout of
-exultation from the friends of Mary.&nbsp; At length the barber,
-one Gryffyd, was called on to lend his aid, which he did, in a
-masterly manner by lathering, and shaving the beast&rsquo;s tail
-of every hair that adorned it, from the insertion to the tuft,
-and afterwards greasing and soaping it thoroughly.&nbsp; Mary
-eyed it, meanwhile, as though she longed to convert it into
-soup.</p>
-<p>These preparations being completed, Mary addressed her
-false-hearted swain, and even then, generously offered to give up
-the chance if he would repent and make her an honest woman.&nbsp;
-This noble proposition excited murmurs of applause.&nbsp; <a
-name="page65"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 65</span>But all in
-vain,&mdash;Roger remained inexorable.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Then may I never be married,&rdquo; cried she,
-&ldquo;if ever you take your cow home again!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;That&rsquo;s yet to be tried,&rdquo; cried Roger.</p>
-<p>Molly then bared her brawny arms, and held up her ten
-fingers&mdash;as much as to say, &ldquo;Let her escape my grip if
-she can!&rdquo;&mdash;and, with a countenance flashing anger and
-resolution, she took her station at the wicket, &ldquo;screwed up
-to the sticking point,&rdquo; and resolved to &ldquo;stand the
-hazard of the die.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>With the grasp of a vice, she seized the pendant ornament; and
-now it was pull cow, pull Molly!&mdash;for the two sturdy
-brothers of Roger belaboured the animal most unmercifully.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Hold your own!&rdquo; shrieked Mary&rsquo;s mother.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Go it, you old devil!&rdquo; cried the brothers of
-Roger, as they thrashed and goaded the poor cow.&nbsp; Still with
-heroic firmness Mary kept her hold.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;But who can rule the uncertain chance of
-war?&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The period of detention had nearly arrived;&mdash;half a
-minute more, and Mary would be victorious&mdash;her vengeance
-complete&mdash;and Roger quite undone!&mdash;when lo! the
-tortured animal leaped <a name="page66"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 66</span>suddenly from the wicket&mdash;and
-Mary, wretched Mary!&mdash;fell upon her brawny back, with the
-cow&rsquo;s tail extended in her hands!&mdash;&rsquo;Twas all the
-spoil her valiant attempt had left her!&mdash;Twisting and
-capering, the beast was seen speeding its way to Roger&rsquo;s
-well known home;&mdash;and</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Thus was she (poor Molly)!<br />
-Of cow, of virtue, everything, bereft.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>It was rumoured that foul play had been committed by
-Roger&rsquo;s brothers; and that a stick, with a sharp instrument
-at the end of it, had caused the catastrophe;&mdash;but, as there
-was no means of ascertaining the fact, the affair dropped.</p>
-<p>A rustic bard, who had been hospitably received in
-Mary&rsquo;s dwelling, presented to her the following Lament,
-which he composed, in gratitude, for her consolation.</p>
-<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">LAMENT.</p>
-<p>Oh mournful day! oh mournful day!<br />
-Base Roger&rsquo;s cow has run away,<br />
-And left poor Molly to bewail<br />
-The sorrows she cannot <i>re-tail</i>.</p>
-<p>The grateful cabbage, greens, and leek<br />
-Her hands have reared, could they but speak,<br />
-<a name="page67"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 67</span>Would thus
-hold converse with the ground,<br />
-Which daily her attention found.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Oh mother earth, how hard you get,<br />
-Since Molly&rsquo;s left to pine and fret;<br />
-You drain our tops, our bottoms pinch,<br />
-We cannot grow another inch!</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Your bed, so lately soft and warm,<br />
-To stony hardness you transform;<br />
-If &rsquo;tis for Molly this you do,<br />
-Oh think of leek and cabbage too!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;My children,&rdquo; then said mother earth,<br />
-&ldquo;I ever loved ye from your birth;<br />
-But know that I, as well as you,<br />
-Am doomed to pine and suffer too.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;And if your bottoms feel uneasy,<br />
-&rsquo;Tis not from want of will to please ye;<br />
-And if your green tops droop and pine,<br />
-&rsquo;Tis not from any fault of mine.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;For I am thirsting for a sup,<br />
-And Molly never stirs me up.<br />
-Forsaken love hath made her sore&mdash;<br />
-She cultivates the ground no more!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Oh mournful day! oh mournful day!<br />
-Base Roger&rsquo;s cow has run away,<br />
-And left poor Molly to bewail<br />
-The sorrows she cannot <i>re-tail</i>!</p>
-</blockquote>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>After proceeding about a mile and a half on the Llangollen
-road, we turned off, to the left, up <a name="page68"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 68</span>a lane, which led us to the noble
-domain of Mrs. Middleton Biddulph.</p>
-<h3>CHIRK CASTLE</h3>
-<p>Is delightfully situated on the spacious domain, spreading
-over the summit of, what would be deemed, by a southern, a lofty
-mountain, but which is here only designated a hill, projecting
-from the range of Berwyn mountains; and is well calculated to
-recall the stories of the days of old, when flourished</p>
-<blockquote><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&ldquo;The good old rule, the
-simple plan,<br />
-That they should take who have the power,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And they should keep who can.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p68b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Chirk Castle"
-title=
-"Chirk Castle"
- src="images/p68s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>It is built of solid stone; and the ivy, mantling over the
-walls, gives them an appearance of solemnity and grandeur,
-peculiarly interesting.&nbsp; It is quadrangular, and is
-strengthened by five massive towers, one at each corner, and the
-fifth projecting from the principal front, through which is a
-lofty entrance into the court-yard, 165 feet in length, and 100
-feet in breadth, surrounded on every side by noble suites of
-apartments.&nbsp; The picture gallery measures 100 feet in
-length, by twenty-two in breadth; and contains some very
-excellent paintings, and several <a name="page69"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 69</span>portraits of the Middleton
-family.&nbsp; Amongst the latter is that of Sir Thomas Middleton,
-who defended himself gallantly against the forces of Cromwell,
-and was rewarded for his loyalty by Charles II, who granted him
-&pound;30,000 for the loss he had sustained, besides many
-valuable presents; amongst others, a cabinet, which is shewn in
-the gallery, valued at &pound;7,000, richly ornamented with
-silver; in various compartments of which are paintings, said to
-have been executed by Rubens.&nbsp; The monarch offered to
-elevate Sir Thomas to the peerage, which he declined.</p>
-<p>The walls of the castle are eighteen feet in thickness; but
-sleeping and other apartments have been cut into them, for the
-accommodation of the family.</p>
-<p>The celebrated picture of Pystil Rhaidar, in the dining-room,
-shows that noble waterfall tumbling into the <i>sea</i>, <i>where
-several ships are quietly riding at anchor</i>.&nbsp;
-&ldquo;Pystil Rhaidar,&rdquo; <i>i.e.</i> &ldquo;The spout of the
-Cataract,&rdquo; is considered the largest fall in Wales.&nbsp;
-In the valley of Mochnant, about four miles from the village, the
-river falls over an almost perpendicular rock, 240 feet high;
-thence rushing furiously under a natural arch towards the bottom,
-it plunges into a deep black pool, overhung with impervious
-shaggy wood.</p>
-<p><a name="page70"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 70</span>The
-story of the artist&rsquo;s introducing the ocean with ships, is
-rather curious.&nbsp; He was a foreigner, and but little
-acquainted with the English language; and when he had completed
-the picture, one of the persons to whom it was first shown
-observed, that &ldquo;a few <i>sheep</i> placed near the foot of
-the fall would be a great improvement.&rdquo;&nbsp;
-Misunderstanding <i>sheep</i> for <i>ship</i>, his amazement was
-extreme.&nbsp; He, however, took the picture to his easel, and
-introduced <i>ships</i> with the necessary element to float
-them!&nbsp; A mistake so humorous determined the purchaser to
-allow of no further alteration.</p>
-<p>The present building was completed in two years.&nbsp; The
-first stone being laid in the year 1011, and in 1013 the castle
-frowned defiance to the foe.</p>
-<p>It was built by Roger Mortimer, Earl of Wigmore, as a
-stronghold to defend him from the just vengeance he had created
-by the murder of the sons of Gryffydd ap Madoc, to whom he was
-appointed guardian, in conjunction with John, Earl of Warren, in
-the hope of inheriting their joint estates.&nbsp; Mortimer was to
-seize upon Nanheuddwg and Chirk, the property of the youngest;
-and Warren upon the lands of Broomfield, Yale, and Dinas Bran,
-belonging to the eldest.&nbsp; Travellers should not neglect to
-visit this noble specimen of warlike architecture.&nbsp; Its <a
-name="page71"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 71</span>picture
-gallery and dungeon will, in their different styles, excite
-admiration.</p>
-<p>On the foundation of the present castle anciently stood Castle
-Crogen; and the territory around bore the name of Tref-y-Waun,
-the property of the lords of Dinas Bran, and continued in their
-possession up to the death of Gryffydd ap Madoc, in the reign of
-Edward the First.</p>
-<p>The view from the highlands of the park is very extensive,
-commanding a prospect of seventeen different counties.&nbsp;
-&ldquo;The ground upon which we now stand,&rdquo; said my
-companion, &ldquo;is remarkable for a melancholy circumstance,
-which caused much grief and sorrow in the castle and its
-neighbourhood.&nbsp; The story of Owen-ap-Mylton and Mary Fuller
-will perhaps interest you, as it gave a name to this part of the
-estate, which it still retains, &lsquo;The Black
-Park.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
-<h3>THE ENCHANTED STAG.</h3>
-<p>In a poor hut, which formerly stood upon the site of a few
-cottages, upon the right of the lane leading to the castle from
-the high road, lived an aged woman, who kept no society, and was
-considered, from her reserved <a name="page72"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 72</span>habits, drooping gait, and
-smoke-dried visage, to have strange dealings with the Evil One;
-and upon whom the neighbours looked with fear and trembling,
-whenever they met her in the evening twilight, or when</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;&mdash; the morn in russet mantle clad,<br
-/>
-<i>Walk&rsquo;d</i> o&rsquo;er the dew of yon high eastern
-hill.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Her patch of ground she cultivated without help from any; and
-no one knew by what means she obtained clothing, as her garden
-stock only consisted of a few eatables, which she could ill
-afford to part with for wool to supply her spinning wheel; and
-yet her hose were good and clean, and her woollen petticoat and
-russet gown well fitted to endure the weather&rsquo;s
-extremes.&nbsp; Strange stories were, however, reported
-respecting her, as it was said she had come from the
-Devil&rsquo;s Peak in Derbyshire, where she had the credit of
-being a witch, and was nearly apprehended, upon a special order
-from King James himself, by the officers of justice, who, when
-they would have laid hands upon her, were astonished to find that
-they had seized each other, she having vanished suddenly from
-betwixt them, and, on the same day, it was said, appeared at
-Chirk Castle, offering to pay a half <a name="page73"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 73</span>year&rsquo;s rent in advance for the
-little hut, which was then to let, by the hedge-side in the lane,
-and which the steward accepted.&nbsp; She regularly, afterwards
-paid in advance; but none could tell how she came by the money,
-and the gossips reviled her as a limb of the Devil.&nbsp; This
-absurd notion obtained for her the odium of having performed a
-principal part in the following simple and melancholy tale.</p>
-<p>Owen, the ranger, was a tall, handsome, light-hearted,
-well-meaning lad, as any in the country, much esteemed amongst
-his associates, and admired by all the lasses from Chirk to
-Llangollen, from whom he had selected Mary Fuller for his bride,
-a blue-eyed, flaxen-haired, pretty lass, who lived as servant in
-the castle.</p>
-<p>Owen&rsquo;s cottage, situated where now stands a handsome
-house, was a neat building, consisting of four rooms; it was
-thatched, and the interior was adorned with implements of the
-chase.&nbsp; It commanded a pleasant and romantic prospect; the
-view down the valley being extremely picturesque.&nbsp; Upon the
-trunk of an elm tree, the stump of which is almost all that time
-has spared, are still to be traced, although faintly discernible,
-the widely expanded initials, O. M. and M. F. which in former
-days were doubtless deeply cut in its bark.&nbsp; It was the
-favourite tree of Owen <a name="page74"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 74</span>and Mary; and beneath its spreading
-branches they used to sit many a moonlight evening, and whisper
-rustic vows of constancy and truth.</p>
-<p>One night, as they were walking, with arms clasped round each
-other&rsquo;s waist, near the hut of the old strange woman, they
-were surprised at beholding her patting a noble stag, which had
-strayed from the park, and which seemed fond of his new
-acquaintance, for it licked her face and capered before her, and
-put its mouth close to her ear, while she continued to pat him
-with her hand, and speak to him in a language totally unknown to
-the peasantry.&nbsp; Owen, enraged at seeing one whom he
-considered a witch, seducing one of his noblest stags from the
-park, raised his cross-bow and shook his head at her, as if to
-intimate that he would shoot her, should she dare to fondle the
-deer again.&nbsp; The old beldame, frightened at his looks and
-gestures, retreated into her hut, but shook her hand at him in a
-threatening manner; while the stag, bounding suddenly from her
-door, made towards the park, like lightning, and leaping the high
-fence, began to browze as usual on its native pasture.&nbsp; Mary
-noticed the look and threatening action of the old woman with
-fear, and for sometime they continued their walk in silence,
-neither being anxious to <i>speak</i> upon the subject, but both
-unable <a name="page75"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 75</span>to
-<i>think</i> of any thing else.&nbsp; At length, when they
-reached the bottom of the lane, and turned into the high road
-(which at this period was rough and only used by horsemen and
-foot passengers who were dreadfully inconvenienced by the state
-it was suffered to remain in), the cloud that hung over their
-spirits began to disperse itself, and Owen, eager to resume the
-theme which the appearance of the old woman had interrupted,
-again spoke of their approaching marriage and the proposed
-arrangements he had formed.&nbsp; Mary listened with attention,
-for only one day was to intervene before the happy morning was to
-open on their joys.</p>
-<p>Owen informed her that his master had promised him the finest
-buck he could kill in the park, and a couple of barrels of his
-old October, to regale his friends and guests; he had likewise,
-he said, presented him with a new bed and furniture, fit for a
-baron to lie upon, and large enough for six to sleep in!&nbsp;
-Mary was happy, and Owen more animated, as he spoke of the bounty
-of his gracious master.&nbsp; Mary, eager to enumerate the
-presents she had received, began the catalogue of articles
-necessary for their domestic economy and comfort, and had nearly
-ran through the names of fifty by the time they arrived at her
-cottage door, which was the signal <a name="page76"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 76</span>for parting, and with many a kiss and
-promise of meeting again early in the morning, the lovers
-separated.</p>
-<p>Owen went whistling along the road with a light heart, in fond
-anticipation of future felicity, when suddenly, as he turned into
-the dark lane, upon his way to his own lodge, he was startled by
-the appearance of a dark form, with glaring eyes of fire,
-squatted upon the trunk of an old alder tree, that had been
-blasted by the lightning a few days before; and an unearthly
-<i>mew</i>! broke from its lips; and it spat a quantity of saliva
-in his face.&nbsp; Hot, hot, and burning, seemed the filthy
-rheum!&nbsp; A low growl increased his terrors; and a wild squall
-gave him the speed of a deer, as he darted along the dark and
-narrow lane, his hair standing on end.&nbsp; When he had reached
-the solitary&rsquo;s door, he saw her seated by her iron pot,
-stirring the contents with the handle of a broom, while the glare
-from the crackling fagot shot frequent but transient streams of
-light upon her time-worn visage.&nbsp; Being now more convinced
-than ever that sorcery was at work, he redoubled his speed, and
-heated with fright and fear, reached his welcome home, where he
-sank breathless into a chair in the chimney corner.</p>
-<p>Strange dreams afflicted him during the night; and he arose at
-daybreak feverish and unrefreshed.&nbsp; <a
-name="page77"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 77</span>The usual
-summons at the door was given by his fellow ranger, who, upon
-being admitted, presented him with a venison pasty, on which he
-felt his courage and appetite rapidly returning.&nbsp; A second
-friend brought a flagon of wine from the kind rector of the
-village; a third brought a quarter of mountain lamb; a fourth the
-haunch of a well fatted kid; and many other tokens of kindness
-from his neighbours entirely banished the memory of the
-disagreeables of the preceding night, and universal smiles and
-congratulations ushered in the merry morning.</p>
-<p>Mary&rsquo;s friends, meanwhile, were no less anxious to
-evince their regard for her; and presents poured in from all
-parts of the neighbourhood, from warm hearted and considerate
-well-wishers relations and acquaintances, in consideration of the
-happy morrow which was to unite two beings universally respected
-and beloved.&nbsp; There was a happy congregation in the valley
-of Chirk, upon the evening previous to the appointed bridal
-morn.&nbsp; The minstrel struck up his liveliest notes; the
-maidens danced joyfully; and even grand-sires and their dames
-exerted themselves in the dance, evincing that though time had
-somewhat burthened their bodies, their &ldquo;hearts were all
-light and merry.&rdquo;</p>
-<p><a name="page78"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 78</span>Evening
-at length drew near to a close, and the shadows of the mountains
-spreading over the peaceful valley, gave signal to depart.&nbsp;
-It was pleasing to listen to the distant and retiring notes of
-the minstrel&rsquo;s harp, and the hum of laughter, echoed from
-the beetling cliff and dying in the gorge of the Ceriog
-valley.&nbsp; Sometimes the wild halloo of the mountaineer was
-heard shouting above the heads of those beneath; until at length
-only two persons stood upon the sloping sides of the castle hill,
-with fixed attention, looking in each others face, and with arms
-entwined around their youthful forms.</p>
-<p>There are few who have not felt the power of love: but very
-few perhaps have stood as these two stood, upon the slope of a
-dark mountain rock, listening to the parting accents of their
-friends as they subsided into silence, while beneath them roared
-the never quiet-waters, brawling through rocky fragments, and
-shaking the wild tangled shrubs that grew upon their banks; with
-limpid kisses pure and fresh.&nbsp; And there they paused, and
-looked, and sighed, and loved, and murmured sweet words of
-anticipated happiness; when suddenly the sky, serene before, was
-overcast with clouds, and the wind rushed by them with a fury
-powerful as unexpected.&nbsp; The night grew darker and darker,
-and they were <a name="page79"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-79</span>nearly half a league from Mary&rsquo;s house.&nbsp; They
-cautiously pursued their way through the dew-dripping heather,
-when presently a light appeared on the opposite side of the
-valley; and shadowy forms were distinctly seen moving behind it
-in slow procession.&nbsp; They had reached the spot where the
-aqueduct now crosses the vale, within a short distance of
-Mary&rsquo;s dwelling, but terror prevented them from moving,
-while the procession with the corpse-light at its head, glided
-along without a sound, becoming more distinct as it approached
-within a hundred paces of the spot where the terrified lovers
-stood almost breathless.&nbsp; Four shadowy, headless figures
-followed the light, and were succeeded by a hearse, which moved
-without the aid of horses or creature of any kind to draw or
-propel it forward, upon which lay extended the form of a man,
-bloody, as newly slain.&nbsp; Owen fancied he saw a resemblance
-of himself in that bloody corpse, and the increasing weight of
-Mary upon his arm, assured him she had likewise recognised the
-likeness, for she had fainted.&nbsp; With eyes that almost burst
-from their sockets, he continued to gaze on, and saw, or thought
-he saw, many of his kind friends weeping, in the long train that
-followed.&nbsp; The corpse-light still advanced, and he
-distinctly saw it leading towards the churchyard <a
-name="page80"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 80</span>of the
-village, where it vanished amongst the old yew trees, and with it
-the phantoms that made up the procession.</p>
-<p>Owen bore his senseless burthen to the cottage, where he
-acquainted her mother that a sudden fright had caused her to be
-thus overcome, desiring that she should be put to bed upon the
-instant, and that when she recovered she might be persuaded, what
-she had seen was merely the illusion of a dream; and he quitted
-the cottage with a heavy heart.</p>
-<p>The night was a sleepless one both to Mary and to her lover;
-but with the rising beams of the morning their gloom dispersed;
-and, as the rays gilded the mountain tops, they were both up, and
-waiting for the numerous friends of both sexes, that usually, on
-such occasions, are anxious to be foremost in paying their
-salutations.&nbsp; The bride&rsquo;s cottage being of the
-smallest class, Owen&rsquo;s was agreed upon to be the place of
-rendezvous, and a plentiful store of viands was ready for the
-guests to partake of at an early hour.&nbsp; The gay friends of
-the preceding evening were seen decorated in their holiday
-garments, fresh and fair as the cool breeze and the sweetest wild
-flowers of their native hills, clustering together before their
-cottages, and tripping in various groups towards Owen&rsquo;s
-pleasant dwelling.&nbsp; <a name="page81"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 81</span>Eight o&rsquo;clock in the morning
-was the time appointed for the ceremony to take place in the
-little church of Chirk, and all were eager to attend the young
-couple, and&mdash;to eat their breakfast, which on such occasions
-was far from frugal.&nbsp; Owen&rsquo;s relatives were all ready
-mounted at his door, prepared for the wedding hunt, and, when he
-joined them, away they galloped towards the cottage of
-Mary.&nbsp; She was seated upon her favourite Merlin, surrounded
-by her friends, who set up a shout as Owen and his party came in
-sight.&nbsp; The bridegroom having arrived, and made his claim to
-Mary, he was refused; and then a mock fight took place between
-the parties, and sundry thwacks upon the head were given and
-received in sport.&nbsp; At length, the bride and her kinsmen
-started off at full speed in the direction of Chirk Castle.&nbsp;
-The bridegroom following, worse mounted, but eager in the
-pursuit, shouting for them to stop; until at last the flying
-party having reached the park, they permitted Owen to overtake
-them, according to the custom, who then led his bride to the
-cottage, where everything was in readiness for their
-reception.</p>
-<p>The bride, habited in a snow white dress, with some white
-heath flowers bound in her braided hair, was the admiration of
-all.&nbsp; Owen in his new suit, made for the occasion, looked
-handsomer <a name="page82"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-82</span>than ever.&nbsp; They danced together upon the new mown
-grass, while Jordan, the minstrel, played his blithest
-tunes.&nbsp; At length, the party sat down to the repast, and
-rustic jests were given and returned with glee and good humour;
-when suddenly, the bridegroom being called aside, Mary took that
-opportunity to steal away, meaning to run off to the church, and
-laugh at Owen&rsquo;s and his friend&rsquo;s perplexity at her
-absence, and their astonishment at finding her at the church
-porch before them.</p>
-<p>She was soon missed; and, suspecting it was a trick to perplex
-them, away the whole party ran in different directions in search
-of the runaway.</p>
-<p>Mary had nearly arrived at the old woman&rsquo;s cottage when
-Owen descried her.&nbsp; He had not forgotten the scene of the
-preceding night, and his heart had some painful misgivings that
-all was not right when he first missed his bride so suddenly from
-the breakfast table.&nbsp; Owen shouted and shouted! but the more
-he exercised his lungs, the faster she made use of her heels,
-when suddenly the &ldquo;stag of six,&rdquo; which he had seen
-the night before, darted from the old woman&rsquo;s cottage, and
-ran furiously at Mary, who turned round and retraced her steps
-with fear and terror, but with the speed of the wind.&nbsp; She
-<a name="page83"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 83</span>flew past
-Owen, who endeavoured to stop the deer, but all in vain.&nbsp;
-The interposing trees at times prevented the animal from
-pursuing, by entangling his branches with the lower boughs; but
-these impediments seemed only to redouble his fury when he again
-released himself, and Owen had not yet come up with him, though
-Mary kept the lead.&nbsp; Other friends now joined in the attempt
-to drive the creature in another direction, and with hands joined
-they formed a barrier, shouting and hallooing to frighten the
-stag as he approached the park; but all in vain; he bounded on
-more furiously than before, scattering the crowd in every
-direction.&nbsp; Owen at length overtook the furious stag, and
-was just in time to succour Mary.&nbsp; His coat, which he had
-taken off in the race, he dexterously managed to fling over the
-antlers of the brute, which, falling over its eyes, for a minute
-confounded the deer, and taking his Mary by the arm, he hurried
-her away in the direction of the cottage, but not in time to
-elude the pursuit of the infuriated animal, which having shaken
-off the blind followed them at full speed.&nbsp; Owen had no
-means of defence; the stag approached rapidly; he bade Mary
-continue her speed and reach the cottage, and then, with
-desperate valour, <a name="page84"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-84</span>awaited the attack; in an instant after, he had grasped
-the horns and was dashed to the ground with violence: he rose
-again and with a bound leaped upon its back.&nbsp; The creature
-flung his antlers back, whirled round and round, but still Owen
-sat immoveable, and new hopes arose in the breasts of his
-friends, who gathered near and hemmed them round, when suddenly
-the beast rushed sideways against the trunk of a huge oak, and
-violently fractured Owen&rsquo;s leg; but with persevering
-bravery he still kept his seat.&nbsp; At length, unable to rid
-itself of its burthen, the creature rolled upon the earth, and in
-the fall Owen&rsquo;s right arm was shattered, and his foe once
-again free.&nbsp; It reared and placed its fore feet on the chest
-of Owen; and, as he raised himself once more to grapple with his
-enemy, its pointed antlers struck into his heart, and with a
-groan he instantly expired, while the fierce animal took to the
-mountains, and was seen no more.</p>
-<p>Mary, who had entered the cottage of the ranger, in the midst
-of her terrors spoke of the old woman, who she said had bewitched
-the stag;&mdash;but, when her friends reached the door of the
-hut, and found they could not, by knocking, obtain admission,
-they broke it open, and found its inmate dead upon the
-floor.&nbsp; Rumour said that she had infused her spirit into the
-<a name="page85"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 85</span>deer to
-revenge the threats of Owen on the preceding night; and her
-remains were treated with a ferocity which it would be as painful
-to listen to as to narrate.</p>
-<p>Poor Mary never recovered from the shock; and in a few weeks
-after the mangled remains of her lover were deposited in the
-church yard of Chirk, the fresh flowers and evergreens were also
-placed around <i>her</i> grave.</p>
-<p>For many years this tribute of friendship was regularly paid
-to their memories.&nbsp; In summer, flowers of the sweetest
-perfume breathed their dying odours around their graves, and, in
-winter, the holly and laurel spread their shining leaves to adorn
-their final resting place.&nbsp; Time, however, took away by
-degrees, the kind friends of the ill fated lovers, and no sign
-now points out the spot where, side by side, they slumber.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>We now got once more into the coach road, and pushed on for
-Llangollen, leaving Wynstay, the seat of Sir Watkin William Wynn,
-upon the right.&nbsp; Almost every guide book will furnish the
-tourist with a description of this costly mansion and its
-beautiful grounds; but the wild scenery of nature, and the ruins
-of former grandeur, which yield an inexhaustible fund for
-contemplation and delight, together with the wild legends <a
-name="page86"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 86</span>of the
-peasant or wandering minstrel, which render every spot you tread
-upon in this country enchanted ground, are more congenial to the
-feelings of the writer of this little work than all the gorgeous
-display of modern art and luxury.&nbsp; Therefore Wynstay, with
-Eaton Hall, the magnificent residence of the Marquis of
-Westminster, he resigns to those whose tastes are more refined
-(by luxury) to describe.</p>
-<p>Leaving Wynstay on the right, we were conducted along the
-banks of a beautiful canal (the same that crossed the valley at
-Chirk) which was here planted with larch and hazel in pleasing
-variety on either side.&nbsp; On a sudden, an opening in the
-foliage presented us with a splendid view of the vale of the Dee,
-with the grand aqueduct stretching from hill to hill and the
-waters of the river making their way among broken rocks, amid
-embowering trees, and rolling under the arches of the aqueduct,
-with that delightful sound which is only heard in mountain
-scenery.</p>
-<p>Seldom had I experienced so delightful a sensation as the
-present prospect occasioned.&nbsp; All was so calm, so quiet, it
-seemed indeed &ldquo;the happy valley.&rdquo;&nbsp; Shortly
-after, however, we found that no golden pleasure is entirely free
-from alloy, for on turning a projection upon the <a
-name="page87"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 87</span>road, we were
-nearly stifled by the smoke from a lime furnace, and what was
-worse, &ldquo;another and another still succeeded,&rdquo;
-resembling a line of batteries blazing and vomiting forth smoke
-and destruction, while on the opposite mountain an uniform body
-of iron works were firing away from their tall chimneys, and
-steadily maintaining the never ceasing conflict.</p>
-<p>At length, however, having happily passed these belligerents,
-my companion led me in triumph into a little public house on the
-road side, (which overlooked a precipice) <i>the Aqueduct
-Tavern</i>, the exterior of which promised little better
-accommodation than is to be met with in an Irish cabin.&nbsp; We
-entered, nevertheless, and, although the floor was of brick, it
-was very clean and the household utensils glittered along the
-walls.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Pray, gentlemen, walk into the back parlour,&rdquo;
-said a comely looking, good natured landlady of about
-forty-three.</p>
-<p>We gladly accepted her invitation, and were agreeably
-surprised to find a neat room, carpeted, with a sofa, and half a
-dozen hair-bottomed chairs, and every thing rurally
-comfortable.&nbsp; The window looked upon the aqueduct, and
-commanded a beautiful view.</p>
-<p><a name="page88"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 88</span>Here I
-became musical, and hummed &ldquo;the woodpecker tapping,&rdquo;
-to the no small annoyance of my companion, who had stretched
-himself upon the sofa with the intention, doubtless, of taking a
-nap after his long walk.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;And I said, if there&rsquo;s peace to be
-found in the world,<br />
-The heart that is humble might hope for it here.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;And here will I take up my quarters for the
-night.&nbsp; A glass of gin and water, cold and weak, if you
-please, Mrs. &mdash;, for I am thirsty.&nbsp; Very good,
-indeed;&mdash;now, a sheet of paper, to take down my notes of the
-day&rsquo;s ramble.&nbsp; Very good again, Mrs. &mdash;, and now
-if you have good beds you may get us a lamb chop, with some tea,
-etc. etc. and leave us to enjoy this lovely prospect.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;No beds, I am sorry to say.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;No beds, Mrs. &mdash;!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;No, sir, I hope to get some by next summer.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Why then, Mrs. &mdash;, I am afraid we shall have to
-proceed to the village.&nbsp; How far is Llangollen from
-this?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Six miles, sir.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;And it is now&mdash;&rdquo;</p>
-<p><a name="page89"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-89</span>&ldquo;Just six o&rsquo;clock, sir.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Then bring in two screeching hot tumblers of punch,
-there&rsquo;s a good lady, and</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Let us take the road.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Here the trumpet of my companion began to sound; but I thought
-it would be advisable for him to rise before he became too stiff
-to resume his walk; therefore, with &ldquo;yoicks! yoicks!&rdquo;
-I startled the heavy god from his eyelids, and informed him of
-our unfortunate situation.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;It matters but little,&rdquo; said he; &ldquo;there is
-sufficient upon the road to interest us, and perhaps the twilight
-of such an evening as this is preferable to the
-morning.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Having discussed our punch and lighted our cigars, we quitted
-the comfortable little cottage, and bent our steps towards the
-aqueduct, intending to cross by it to the opposite side of the
-vale.</p>
-<p>A cigar in the cool of the evening is delightful.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Glorious tobacco, that from east to west<br
-/>
-Cheers the tar&rsquo;s labour, and the Turk-man&rsquo;s
-rest.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>So sang the Noble Bard, the music of whose lyre <a
-name="page90"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 90</span>is left to
-charm the race of mankind for ages yet to come.</p>
-<p>We soon reached the centre of the aqueduct; it extends from
-mountain to mountain in length 980 feet; it is sustained by
-twenty piers, 116 feet in height from the bed of the river Dee,
-and the span of the arches is forty-five feet.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Do you observe yon house?&rdquo; inquired my companion,
-with a grave air, pointing to a building which seemed to have
-belonged to some opulent person in times gone by, although it was
-now in a state of decay.&nbsp; Having replied in the affirmative,
-he proceeded:&mdash;&ldquo;In that house lived a creature who was
-called &lsquo;the Pride of the Valley.&rsquo;&nbsp; She was the
-daughter of a rich merchant of Bristol, and was beloved by a poor
-but honest and well-educated youth, who was, and has been since,
-a wanderer from his birth.&nbsp; Her christian name was Eveleen;
-no matter for her father&rsquo;s.&nbsp; The following verses were
-written upon her untimely fate:</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;In the days of my boyhood, when pleasures
-pass&rsquo;d by,<br />
-Like the fragrance of flowers on morning&rsquo;s first sigh,<br
-/>
-In the vale of Llangollen there dwelt a fair rose<br />
-More lovely than daybreak, and sweet as its close.<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Her step was
-light<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; As fays by
-night:<br />
-More thrilling her voice than the streamlet that flows<br />
-<a name="page91"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 91</span>And mild
-as the moonlight and blue as the sky<br />
-Was the beam and the colour of Eveleen&rsquo;s eye.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;But Eveleen&rsquo;s friends were of wealthy degree,<br
-/>
-And tyranny forced her to cross the wide sea.<br />
-She faded, alas! as she drooped o&rsquo;er the wave,<br />
-And died! but no blossom was strewed on her grave.<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The waters
-deep,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Roll o&rsquo;er
-her sleep,<br />
-And sea-stars now light up her billowy cave;<br />
-The winds moan above her, and Peris deplore<br />
-Round the rose of Llangollen, which charms us no more.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;She was ordered to the Indies,&rdquo; he said, vainly
-endeavouring to hide a tear, which told me the secret of his
-heart.&nbsp; I know not how it is, love tales are generally a
-great bore to the listener, but there was something so true, so
-heartfelt, in that single drop which glistened in the eye of my
-companion, that if delicacy would have permitted me, I should
-certainly have taxed him as being the hero of his own tale, and
-have requested him to give me a more minute relation of the
-affair.</p>
-<p>I never felt the influence of the sublime mingled with the
-beautiful so deeply as when I stood upon this wonderful work of
-art; wherever I turned my eyes, the scene was calculated to
-excite the warmest feelings of admiration.&nbsp; The <a
-name="page92"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 92</span>Dee flowing
-beneath, shadowed by the rich tints of the summer foliage; the
-ruined bridge; the dark mountain masses upon either side, patched
-with gloomy pines, intermingled with the relieving brightness of
-the graceful larch;&mdash;here tracing the lovely blooming
-heather, there the blasted rock in its naked majesty, and the
-noble amphitheatre at the extremity of the vale, with a view of
-the beautiful stream, as it came winding from the opposite
-point&mdash;the twittering of the birds as they prepared their
-mossy nests for repose, gave a charm to the evening, which can
-only be felt while witnessing the scene, and exceeds the power of
-description.</p>
-<p>Having crossed the aqueduct, we proceeded by the left bank of
-the canal, passing a forge that nearly stifled us with gaseous
-smoke, along a pathway made of cinders and small coal, the refuse
-of the foundry.&nbsp; Trees of every description hung over our
-heads, and sloped down a deep declivity to the margin of the Dee,
-while on the opposite bank the mountain frowned above us.&nbsp;
-The partial glances we obtained of the vale through the woods,
-discovered scenes which the artist&rsquo;s fancy might vainly
-attempt to equal.&nbsp; The water-flies, darting along the
-surface of the canal, and leaving long streaks of light <a
-name="page93"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 93</span>behind them
-in myriad flashes, likewise engaged our attention; and we walked
-on in contemplative silence, my mind full of the crowd of natural
-beauties that surrounded me; while my companion seemed rapt in
-reflections upon the past&mdash;sometimes pausing to gaze upon a
-drooping willow, at others scanning a majestic oak that grew
-apart from the rest of the waving multitude, as if recollections
-of a painful nature crossed his mind.</p>
-<p>At length, we reached the bridge of Llangollen, where the
-river is seen to great advantage, tumbling over its rocky bed,
-and rushing beneath the dark shelter of the overhanging
-trees.&nbsp; The village is small, and contains three respectable
-inns; viz.: the Hand, at which we stopped by the advice of my
-companion, the King&rsquo;s Head, and the Royal Hotel.&nbsp; We
-were shewn into a very good parlour, and, after ordering a tea
-and supper dinner, my friend, somewhat exhausted by the
-day&rsquo;s march, flung himself once more upon a sofa, while I
-resumed my journal.&nbsp; Supper or dinner, or whatever it may be
-termed being over, inquiries were made about our bed rooms.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p93b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Llangollen"
-title=
-"Llangollen"
- src="images/p93s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Your bed, sir, is made over the way.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Over the way!&rdquo;</p>
-<p><a name="page94"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-94</span>&ldquo;Yes; my mistress has but one bed unoccupied, and
-she thought you would resign that to the elderly
-gentleman.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Oh certainly, my good girl; and who is to guide me
-&lsquo;over the way,&rsquo; eh! for it&rsquo;s as dark as
-Erebus?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Oh, sir, John, the ostler.&nbsp; Here, John!&nbsp;
-John!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>And away went the girl.&nbsp; I confess I have a strong
-aversion, after having taken off my boots, put on my slippers,
-and made up my mind to be comfortable for the night, to be
-obliged to walk some hundred yards from the parlour fireside,
-across or along a damp street, in a dark night, to my bedchamber;
-chilling work it is.&nbsp; At length, however, the deed was done,
-and I was shewn into a bedroom, where the murmurs of the flowing
-Dee were distinctly heard beneath the window.&nbsp; I felt cold
-and uncomfortable.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Here am I, then,&rdquo; said I, soliloquizing, as I
-pressed the pillow, &ldquo;here am I, at length, in the vale of
-Llangollen&mdash;in the village of Llangollen! the spot which I
-have so often longed to visit!</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Flow on, thou shining river!&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>And how fortunate, too, to meet with such an <a
-name="page95"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 95</span>agreeable old
-gentleman!&mdash;and that Bristol merchant&rsquo;s daughter, poor
-girl!&mdash;and that old witch!&mdash;corpse-light!&mdash;greased
-cow&rsquo;s tail!&mdash;and, in a few moments, I sank soundly to
-sleep.</p>
-<h2><a name="page96"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-96</span>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
-<p class="gutsumm">Waking prospect&mdash;Plas Newydd and the
-grounds&mdash;Lines written at the font&mdash;Castle Dinas
-Bran&mdash;Legend of Mick Mallow&mdash;View of the
-Castle&mdash;Legend of the Minstrel Fay&mdash;Original
-Air&mdash;Festival.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;I crossed in its beauty the Dee&rsquo;s
-druid water,<br />
-The waves as I passed rippled lowly and lone,<br />
-For the brave on their borders had perished in slaughter,<br />
-The noble were banished, the gifted were gone.&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: right">W. WIFFEN.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>I <span class="smcap">was</span> dreaming of home, and
-happiness, and a thousand lovely things, when I was awakened by
-my new acquaintance, who stood before me dressed for a sturdy
-walk, with a glass of brandy and milk in his hand, which he
-advised me to finish before I quitted my room.&nbsp; I however,
-contented myself with tasting it, and returning him the
-remainder, which he quaffed off with <a name="page97"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 97</span>the alacrity of one who thought
-example was better than precept.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;A lovely morning,&rdquo; said Triptolemus, rubbing his
-hands with much delight; &ldquo;come, bustle, bustle, my young
-friend; you are not in London, now.&nbsp; Permit me to open the
-lattice; you will find no perfume at your chamber window in town
-like this;&rdquo; and, as he spoke, he flung open the casement,
-and a rush of fragrance poured into the room from hundreds of
-roses that clustered upon the wall without.&nbsp; It was a
-draught of delight which far surpassed the brandy and milk, in my
-estimation; nor was my friend at all deficient in praising its
-sweetness, for, taking a long breath, he stood, for a moment,
-with his mouth wide open, and then sent forth a sigh, long enough
-to form a bridge over the river for the fairies to cross
-upon.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Shall we breakfast before we set out upon our
-ramble?&nbsp; I think we had better give orders for it, and visit
-the cottage where Lady Elinor Butler and Miss Ponsonby so long
-resided, while it is preparing.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>This being agreed to, we crossed over to the Hand Inn, and
-gave directions for a breakfast, that would enable us to undergo
-the subsequent fatigue with cheerfulness; and then struck into
-the road for Plas Newydd.&nbsp; This memorable <a
-name="page98"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 98</span>little
-dwelling is pleasantly situated upon a rising knoll, and commands
-a delightful prospect of mountain scenery.</p>
-<p>The front of the cottage is ornamented with an oaken palisade,
-curiously carved with grotesque figures, giving a very tasty and
-aristocratic appearance to the building.&nbsp; At the back of the
-house is a neat grass plot, with a birdcote, where the robins
-find a grateful shelter in the winter season, and where the
-ladies fed them every morning.&nbsp; It is surrounded with a
-fence of evergreens.&nbsp; From thence, the gardener, who is
-still retained upon the grounds, conducted us under an archway,
-to a very pleasant and winding path, which leads to a well
-stocked fruit garden.&nbsp; We then descended by a shady walk,
-arched over with tall trees, to the primrose vale, through which
-a refreshing stream rushes over rocks, where the sun but rarely
-gilds it with its beams.&nbsp; It is a delightful cool retreat,
-and well calculated to awaken the dormant spirit of poesy, in any
-heart where it had ever deigned to dwell.&nbsp; We passed over a
-rustic bridge which led us to the veranda, from which we had a
-fine view of the valley of Cewynn and the Pegwerm mountains; and
-then proceeding a little farther up the glen, we seated ourselves
-opposite a most picturesque font, brought hither from the ruins
-<a name="page99"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 99</span>of Valle
-Crucis, by the late proprietors of this spot.&nbsp; It is
-enclosed in a small arched niche, and supplied with the purest
-water from a murmuring rill, which falls in a thin stream into
-the bowl, a draught from which is an exquisite treat&mdash;for
-<i>water</i> drinkers.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p99b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Font in the grounds of Plas Newydd"
-title=
-"Font in the grounds of Plas Newydd"
- src="images/p99s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<h3>LINES WRITTEN AT THE FONT.</h3>
-<blockquote><p>Drink, gentle pilgrim, from the well,<br />
-Thus sacred in this hollow dell!<br />
-Drink deep!&mdash;yet ere the yearning lip<br />
-Touches the draught it longs to sip,<br />
-Pray for the souls of those who gave<br />
-This font that holds the limpid wave!&mdash;<br />
-This holy font, which lay o&rsquo;erthrown<br />
-Mid Valle Crucis&rsquo; shadows brown,<br />
-And which the hands of holy men<br />
-Have blest, but ne&rsquo;er can bless again!<br />
-Drink, happy pilgrim, drink and pray,<br />
-At morning dawn or twilight grey,&mdash;<br />
-Pray for the souls of those who gave<br />
-This font, that holds the limpid wave!</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The flower garden is laid out with great taste; and the little
-circular dairy, sunk in the ground, on the left at the front
-entrance, affords a most pleasing and picturesque effect.&nbsp;
-Altogether, it is a place where any person, wearied with the <a
-name="page100"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 100</span>bustle of
-society, would willingly fly for refuge, and find repose.</p>
-<p>After rewarding the gardener for his attention in shewing us
-the retreat, we returned, with good appetites, to do justice to
-the fare provided by our host of the Hand.&nbsp; And here I was
-first destined to hear the sounds of the Welsh harp.&nbsp; As we
-discussed our fare, the harper in the hall played up his
-liveliest tunes.&nbsp; There was not an original Welsh air in the
-whole collection; for it consisted of all the popular songs that
-had been bawled about the streets of London for the last three
-years; and though probably new to the ears of the dwellers in
-this secluded valley, were to me anything but gratifying.&nbsp; I
-sent out the waiter, therefore, requesting the minstrel to play a
-few of his national melodies; when he immediately commenced an
-air, to which I have heard a song, I think of old Charles
-Dibdin&rsquo;s, called &ldquo;The Tortoise-shell Tom
-Cat.&rdquo;&nbsp; After a second attempt, I gave the thing up as
-hopeless, and was obliged to content myself with the anticipation
-of hearing some Welsh airs when I returned to London, as they
-seemed to be exiled from their native valleys.</p>
-<p>Breakfast being despatched, we slung our pistols, <i>i.e.</i>
-leathern bottles, filled with <i>eau de vie</i>, to our sides,
-and started to view the ruins of Dinas <a
-name="page101"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 101</span>Bran, an
-ancient fortress, upon the summit of a conical mountain, which
-forms the principal feature of this portion of the vale, and is
-indeed a striking object, from almost every part of the
-neighbourhood.&nbsp; The ascent begins near the foot of the
-bridge opposite to the town.</p>
-<p>As we passed along the street, we perceived the following
-notice pasted upon the gable of a house:</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The Annual Festival of the Llangollen and
-Llandysilio Female Club will be held, as usual, at the Hand Inn
-gardens, on Tuesday, 27th of June.&nbsp; The members will walk in
-procession to church, exactly at three o&rsquo;clock, &amp;c.,
-&amp;c.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;This festival,&rdquo; said my companion, &ldquo;is well
-worthy of notice.&nbsp; The promoters of this valuable
-institution are Mrs. Cunluff, and Mrs. Ayton, the rector&rsquo;s
-wife.&nbsp; It was formed for the support of the aged and
-afflicted, who have the benefit of food and medical attendance in
-sickness and calamity, by contributing a trifle out of their
-weekly wages, when in health and employment.&rdquo;&nbsp; We had
-sufficient time to ascend the mountain, and return before the
-procession quitted the churchyard.</p>
-<p>Triptolemus was strongly built, and, being accustomed to
-rambling amongst the Welsh vales, and over its steepest
-mountains, far outstripped <a name="page102"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 102</span>me in the ascent, which was by no
-means easy.&nbsp; We took a zig-zag direction up the hill, which
-was too precipitate to mount in a direct way, and about half way
-up I made a pause.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I wish some one would invent a steam pocket apparatus,
-for dragging tourists up mountains,&rdquo; said I, as I seated
-myself to take breath, upon a mossy knoll.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;The circular hollow, by which you have taken your
-seat,&rdquo; said Triptolemus, &ldquo;is dignified by a legend,
-which, as you seem to be somewhat fatigued, I will relate to
-you.&rdquo;</p>
-<h3>MICK MALLOW.</h3>
-<p>Mick Mallow was a shepherd lad, a fond narrator of strange
-stories, and a firm believer in knockers, brownies, and other
-spirits that are supposed to hover about and under our
-mountains.&nbsp; He declared that one night, as he sat quietly
-meditating what part of the mountain he should select for his
-bed, he was startled by hearing a tinkling sound near him, and
-raising his head, he saw, perched upon this stone, a little man
-with a pair of moss breeches, birch-leaf coat, heather-bloom
-waistcoat, a yellow cap of the blossom of a furze bush, shining
-stockings, and beetle-wing pumps.&nbsp; Thus equipped, he looked
-<a name="page103"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 103</span>very
-smart; and in his left hand he held a fiddle, while with his
-right he twanged the strings, and made the hairs of Mick&rsquo;s
-head stand on end,</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Like quills upon the fretful
-porcupine.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;H&ocirc;s da i chwi!&rdquo; said the little fairy,
-speaking in Welsh; which means, &ldquo;good night to
-you!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;The same to you,&rdquo; said Mick, &ldquo;and many of
-them.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;You&rsquo;re fond of a dance, Mick, I believe, and if
-you stay here, you&rsquo;ll have an opportunity of seeing the
-finest dancers in the world, or out of the world, and I&rsquo;m
-the musician!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Then where&rsquo;s your harp?&rdquo; said Mick,
-&ldquo;and what&rsquo;s that ugly outlandish thing you&rsquo;ve
-got under your arm?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Oh! it&rsquo;s my fiddle,&rdquo; said the little man,
-&ldquo;and you shall bear me play it, presently.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>And now Mick saw hundreds of little spirits ascending the
-mountain; some of them carrying glow-worms in their hands for
-torches; some dressed in white, some in green, and some in
-brown.&nbsp; But all the females were in white, and on they came,
-dancing and singing; but so lightly did they trip, that not a
-drop of dew was seen to be displaced by their weight; and every
-one saluted Mick with a &ldquo;good night to ye, Mick
-Mallow,&rdquo; and to every one he made a suitable reply,
-marvelling how so many well <a name="page104"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 104</span>dressed spirits should know him so
-well; and he was, to say the truth, greatly frightened and
-astonished at his new acquaintance.</p>
-<p>At length the little man, who had invited him to remain where
-he was, drew his bow thrice across the strings of his instrument
-and produced such exquisite tones, that Mick opened his eyes
-still wider, and pricked up his ears with delight.&nbsp; This
-multitude of spirits had now ranged themselves in fantastic
-groups, forming altogether a spacious circle round the stone upon
-which their musician stood, who then waved his fiddle stick, and
-striking three chords on the fiddle, away they went dancing round
-and round, slowly at first, and Mick thought Peg Willis, the
-drover&rsquo;s daughter, couldn&rsquo;t hold a candle to any one
-of them, though she was generally considered the best dancer at
-any festival for many miles round.&nbsp; Now Mick was fond of a
-dance himself, and could hardly forbear joining them; but his
-fears prevented him, for he thought that dancing on a mountain at
-night, to perhaps the devil&rsquo;s fiddle, was not the likeliest
-way to get to heaven.&nbsp; But, when the dance became more
-spirited, he felt his heels knocking together, and he snapped his
-fingers and joined in the air with his voice.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Well done, well done,&rdquo; cried the little man who
-played, &ldquo;come and join in the dance Mick, <a
-name="page105"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 105</span>I&rsquo;ll
-warrant you never saw such dancing at any wedding, as you see
-here!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Never! never! never!&rdquo; cried Mick, and all the
-company laughed softly, and danced faster and faster.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Come and join us,&rdquo; cried they; and Mick rubbed
-his head, while his heels kept time; at length, he was so
-delighted by the motions of a fairy, who threw her bright glances
-at him now and then, that with an irresistable desperation he
-called out for them to stop, till he got into the centre of them,
-which he had no sooner done than he roared out, &ldquo;Now, you
-old devil, play up Brimstone and Water!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>No sooner had he uttered these words, than the figure of the
-little man underwent a change!&nbsp; The yellow cap vanished from
-his head, and a pair of goat&rsquo;s horns, branched out from his
-head; his face turned black as soot, his leafy coat,
-heather-bloom waistcoat and moss breeches, with shining
-stockings, vanished, and left a black body with a long tail!
-while his beetle-wing shoes disappeared as suddenly and left
-nothing but the cloven feet.&nbsp; Mick&rsquo;s heart was heavy,
-but his heels were light; horror was in his breast, but mirth was
-in every motion.&nbsp; The fays assumed a variety of forms, some
-like goats, others like crows; some changed to beetles and others
-<a name="page106"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 106</span>to
-batts! all the varieties of flesh and fowl seemed to be the grand
-movers of the revel, from the moment he entered the enchanted
-circle.&nbsp; The dance, at length, became so furious that he
-could not perceive the forms of the dancers distinctly.&nbsp; The
-rapidity with which they flew round and round made them resemble
-a wheel of fire at a white heat.&nbsp; Still he danced on,
-although he would very willingly have stopped, but his legs
-capered in spite of his will, while old Nick, in the centre,
-continued to play with unceasing vigour and seemingly much
-diverted with the entertainment.</p>
-<p>Mick&rsquo;s master, an honest early-rising man, roamed up the
-mountain, at break of day, to view his sheep and goats, which he
-saw quietly browsing in various parts, but, on nearing this spot,
-you may imagine his astonishment, when he beheld his shepherd
-dancing in that most extraordinary manner; leaping, twisting and
-turning in every direction; for some time, he stood mute with
-astonishment.&nbsp; At length, he drew near, and no sooner did
-Mick perceive his master, than he roared out.&nbsp; &ldquo;Stop
-me! stop me! oh master, stop me!&rdquo; upon which the master
-came close up to him, and was knocked down by an extra fling of
-Mick&rsquo;s leg, as he roared still louder, &ldquo;Stop me,
-master, stop me!&rdquo;</p>
-<p><a name="page107"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-107</span>Having recovered his feet, the old man stared quite
-bewildered and exclaimed, &ldquo;Why, what in the name of the
-Virgin!&mdash;&rdquo;</p>
-<p>But no sooner had he uttered the word, than the charm was
-broken, and poor Mick sank senseless to the earth.&nbsp; When
-sufficiently recovered, he recounted the marvellous tale, and
-declared that all appeared to him as a dream.&nbsp; But the
-circle remains, round the edge of the hollow, where the fairies
-disappeared, which the peasants assert to be the fairy&rsquo;s
-foot mark to this day. <a name="citation107"></a><a
-href="#footnote107" class="citation">[107]</a></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>We now proceeded on our ascent, which became more difficult,
-as we approached the summit, and after a little toil we stood by
-the side of the <i>well</i>, whose pure waters gave joy to the
-inhabitants of this ancient fortress many hundred years ago, and
-still offer a welcome draught to the pilgrim who has sufficient
-enterprise and perseverance to seek it.</p>
-<p>The view from the summit of this mountain is beautiful in the
-extreme; commanding the vale from east to west, with the widely
-spreading plains beyond its eastern extremity, and the grand and
-picturesque mountain scenery which forms the western
-boundary.&nbsp; Chirk Castle, Wynstay, Valle Crucis and
-Glyndwrdwy are distinctly <a name="page108"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 108</span>visible from this elevation, while
-the romantic Dee is seen winding beneath, in light and shadow
-beautifully varied by the hills, and the woods that droop over
-its banks.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p108b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Castle Dinas, Bran"
-title=
-"Castle Dinas, Bran"
- src="images/p108s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Standing amid the ruins of this ancient British fortress, I
-observed it was surely impossible that a spot so romantic could
-be without its legends.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;You are right,&rdquo; said my companion, &ldquo;and I
-will relate one of a young lady, who once resided within these
-walls.&nbsp; That she did live here, and was esteemed very
-beautiful, there is little reason to doubt, since the Welsh bards
-have handed her down to posterity.&rdquo;</p>
-<h3>MY FAWNY VYCHAN,<br />
-<span class="GutSmall">AND THE MINSTREL FAY.</span></h3>
-<p>My Fawny Vychan was a celebrated beauty of the fourteenth
-century, and was the inspirer of many a bard&rsquo;s most admired
-effusions.&nbsp; She was of the house of Tudor Trevor, and her
-father Ednyfed Vychan then held the castle, under the noble Earl
-of Arundel, in the reign of the unfortunate Richard II.&nbsp;
-Among her numerous admirers was Evan, a youthful bard of great
-beauty, but of mysterious birth; but her heart was given to a
-valiant knight, named Howell Einion, <a name="page109"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 109</span>the son of Gwalchmai, the son of
-Meilir, the Lord of Tre Veilir in Anglesea, who was esteemed the
-greatest ornament of chivalry.&nbsp; He was daring, young and
-handsome, three qualifications that find grace in the eyes of all
-ladies, at all periods; but added to these he was a celebrated
-bard and a fine musician.&nbsp; Evan was gentle, delicate and
-retiring, and she could only yield him her esteem.&nbsp; Yet
-nightly did he hover near her casement, and, with the voice of
-love, pour forth his soul in melody beneath it.&nbsp; One
-evening, at the close of autumn, she listened, while tears of
-pity fell from her bright eyes, to the well known voice of
-Evan.</p>
-<blockquote><p>The breeze had left the Berwyn hills,<br />
-The dew was on the flower,<br />
-The bee had sought his honeycomb,<br />
-The bird was in his bower;<br />
-When swifter than the mountain gale,<br />
-And fresh as sparkling dew,<br />
-My bee, I sought thy honey-home,<br />
-My bird, to thee I flew!</p>
-<p>My Alban steed is white with foam,<br />
-And droops his arched neck;<br />
-The flood, the mountain, moor, and glen,<br />
-He cross&rsquo;d without a check!<br />
-Oh listen, while my harp I strike,<br />
-And rouse its sweetest tone,<br />
-And hear the language of a heart,<br />
-Which beats for thee alone!</p>
-<p><a name="page110"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 110</span>Oh,
-dearest of the mortal race!<br />
-How peerless must thou be,<br />
-When spirits quit their happy homes,<br />
-To love, and gaze on thee!<br />
-Arise, bright star of beauty, rise!<br />
-And when from thee I roam,<br />
-Send forth the lustre of thine eyes,<br />
-To light me to my home!</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Evan, after this touching appeal, remained for some time
-beneath the window, gazing upwards, in the hope that she would
-grant him one farewell; but disappointed, he turned sorrowfully
-to depart, when his progress was arrested, by the sudden grasp of
-an armed hand, and Einion stood before him.&nbsp; Howell had
-often observed, that the eyes of the young minstrel filled with
-tears as he gazed upon the beautiful face of his mistress, and
-was not pleased with the discovery.&nbsp; His fine eyes, now
-flashed with anger upon Evan, who returned the glance as
-haughtily, and, but for the delicate frame of the minstrel, the
-knight would have revenged himself upon the object of his
-jealousy.&nbsp; Evan&rsquo;s eyes were black as jet, his face was
-femininely fair, and his transparent skin was tinged with that
-beautiful, but fatal hue, which brightens the cheeks of those
-already doomed to the consumptive fiend, who flatters while he
-destroys.</p>
-<p>He was slightly formed, but exquisitely moulded, and so light
-was his footstep, that his <a name="page111"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 111</span>tread was scarcely heard, so that he
-obtained the application of the Minstrel Fay.</p>
-<p>No one knew his parents, or from whence he came.&nbsp; His
-dress was of the best though plainest materials of the time;
-destitute of all the absurdities that marked the costume of the
-period; and his steed, which brought him to the castle, and bore
-him away from it again, was of the purest white, and fleeter than
-any in the baron&rsquo;s stables.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Your steed stands in the valley, Minstrel Fay,&rdquo;
-said Howel; &ldquo;descend and vanish on his back, swifter than
-you came hither, or I shall hurl you from the battlements,
-and&mdash;why!&mdash;have I been dreaming!&rdquo; continued the
-astonished knight, with an exclamation of disappointment, mingled
-with fear, as he stood with his arm outstretched and his hand
-clenched, as though he still retained the minstrel in his hold;
-instead of whom, it grasped an aspen branch, which, broken by the
-gripe, he dashed on the ground.&nbsp; Suddenly, an unearthly
-strain of melody arose from the woody dell, and he distinctly
-heard the following words:</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;One glance from those seraphic eyes,<br />
-To light me o&rsquo;er the plain;<br />
-One silver word to cheer my soul,<br />
-And I am gone again!&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p><a name="page112"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-112</span>&ldquo;What ho!&rdquo; cried the knight, &ldquo;Maldor!
-d&rsquo;Espard!&rdquo;&nbsp; Two squires were instantly at his
-side.&nbsp; &ldquo;By heaven, witchery is at work,
-d&rsquo;Espard! saddle brown Terror.&nbsp; The Minstrel Fay is in
-the valley, and find him this night I am determined.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>The horse was quickly brought, and, attended by his two
-followers, he descended the mountain, at a desperate pace, in the
-direction from whence the sounds proceeded.&nbsp; The whole of
-that night did he gallop over hills, and through deep glens, in
-pursuit of Evan; but no trace of him could he find, and at
-length, wearied and exhausted with fatigue, he returned to Dinas
-Bran, believing all that he had seen a dream.</p>
-<p>At the morning&rsquo;s meal, he related the story to My Fawny
-and her father.&nbsp; The venerable lord jested with him upon his
-sleep-walking, as he termed it, and bade him, &ldquo;have better
-thoughts of poor Evan, for,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;our land does
-not contain a sweeter minstrel, or a finer bard.&nbsp; He is the
-pride of my hall, and the delight of all my noble friends.&nbsp;
-The only thing I am inclined to censure him for, is his
-absence.&nbsp; He must belong to noble blood, for his garb
-bespeaks him gentle, and his attainments are those of one who has
-received an education such as few of us can boast.&rdquo;</p>
-<p><a name="page113"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-113</span>&ldquo;I trust, baron,&rdquo; said Einion, (a little
-piqued at this high commendation), &ldquo;you will allow, he
-would be loath to enter the lists with me, in mortal encounter;
-and, for the accomplishments which belong to men of rank, I have
-laboured to be considered no mean scholar.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Why as a knight and bard, I grant you, few can equal
-Howel ap Einion; at feast and tourney, you ever shine amongst the
-first of England&rsquo;s youth,&rdquo; said the good natured
-baron; &ldquo;but, my brave boy, do not dislike poor Howell,
-because his education has been different from yours.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Not I, my lord; I only wish he would not look so
-meltingly at your daughter.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>My Fawny turned pale, but not from guilt; it was for fear that
-her lover&rsquo;s suspicious mind might prove dangerous to the
-poor youth, of whose hopeless affection she was aware, and vainly
-regretted.&nbsp; Her lover noticed the change; and so did her
-father, who instantly said,</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Well, well, to end the dispute about who is most fitted
-to be my daughter&rsquo;s husband, I have resolved that of all
-her suitors, he who shall prove best leaper in the approaching
-British Olympic at Plas-Gwynn, shall have my daughter&rsquo;s
-hand.&nbsp; Will you enter the lists?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I will venture to risk my happiness upon <a
-name="page114"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 114</span>the leap,
-or upon my success in any one in the whole list of games; and, I
-doubt not, but love will assist me to bear off the prize.&nbsp;
-But, should I fail&mdash;&rdquo; said he, in a tone of
-tenderness, as he took the maiden&rsquo;s hand, &ldquo;would My
-Fawny drop a tear upon my grave?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>The lovely girl lifted her dark eyes to those of her
-lover&rsquo;s, and the impetuous knight felt at once assured of
-her undivided affection.</p>
-<p>The intervening days passed rapidly, while costly preparations
-were made for the games that were to take place at Plas
-Gwynn.</p>
-<p>During this time, Evan was never seen, although Einion often
-fancied, at the still hour of night, he heard a harp, and the
-soft voice of the minstrel, near the window of his mistress.</p>
-<p>It is sufficient to say that Howell&rsquo;s belief in his
-superiority over the rest of the competitors was justly founded;
-and he won the lady by covering the immense distance of fifty
-feet at a hop, step, and jump, over the brook called Abernodwydd;
-in commemoration of which feat three stones, at the precise
-intervals, were immediately erected on the spot, where they still
-remain to this day, in a dingle called, &ldquo;<i>Naid
-Abernodwydd</i>, or <i>The Leap of
-Abernodwydd</i>.&rdquo;&mdash;See Jones&rsquo;s Bardic Museum,
-Vol. II.</p>
-<p>The games being finished, the lovers returned <a
-name="page115"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 115</span>to Dinas
-Bran, and the happy day at length arrived.</p>
-<p>Bards of the highest order were seated in the banqueting hall,
-and minstrels tuned their harps to joy and gratulation; but Evan
-was not there.&nbsp; The baron sat at the head of the board, his
-daughter and son-in-law on either hand.&nbsp; And many an anxious
-wish he felt, for his favourite bard, and many an eager glance
-did he cast around the illuminated hall, hoping to discover him
-amongst the crowd; but in vain; and he felt uneasy at his
-absence.&nbsp; Every guest expressed wonder that he was not there
-to celebrate so happy an event, and he became the topic of
-conversation with all assembled.</p>
-<p>At length, the time for departure arrived, and the last bard
-had recited his complimentary verses, when the door was flung
-open at the lower end of the room, and Evan, his harp hung behind
-him, with a tottering step advanced towards the upper end of the
-hall, where the new married couple sat gazing in speechless
-wonder at his altered form.&nbsp; There was an unearthly
-expression in his face; the bloom which used to mantle on his
-cheeks, was no longer there; his eyes were sunk deeply in their
-sockets, and the vermilion of his lip was turned to ashy
-paleness.&nbsp; A seat was given <a name="page116"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 116</span>him; and, without speaking, he
-placed his harp before him, and touching its strings, a sound of
-heavenly music swelled up to the lofty roof.&nbsp; None ventured
-to breathe audibly, while he sang</p>
-<h3>THE MINSTREL&rsquo;S KNELL.</h3>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;My Fawny Vechan! brightest maid,<br />
-In scarlet robes and gold array&rsquo;d!<br />
-My Fawny Vechan! fairest fair,<br />
-That ever breath&rsquo;d the mountain air!<br />
-For thee do spirits pine and fade,<br />
-As blossoms in the chilling shade,<br />
-Debarr&rsquo;d from Ph&oelig;bus&rsquo; genial light,<br />
-Sink victims to the withering blight.<br />
-My Fawny Vechan! hear my prayer!<br />
-Thy lover&rsquo;s&mdash;tho&rsquo; <i>a child of air</i>!<br />
-May peace on earth, and bliss above,<br />
-Wait on the mortal whom I love!<br />
-My outward form of misery<br />
-Tells what the spirit feels for thee!<br />
-Farewell, farewell! no more the pride<br />
-Of sweet Dwrdwy&rsquo;s mossy side,<br />
-In distant vales, I&rsquo;ll breathe my woes,<br />
-And seek, ah, vain, vain hope! repose!<br />
-Ah! cou&rsquo;d I die, I&rsquo;d not repine,<br />
-If Evan&rsquo;s name might live with thine.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>From the commencement of his song, the figure of Evan became
-fainter and fainter, and the torches and huge candles that
-illuminated the ball assumed a dimmer light.&nbsp; <a
-name="page117"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 117</span>The guests,
-terror stricken, were riveted to their seats; none presumed to
-speak their fears; and the whole assembly appeared, as they had
-been transformed, in the positions they occupied while living,
-into cold marble, so immoveable and inanimate did they
-seem.&nbsp; On a sudden, the figure of Evan vanished!&mdash;The
-substantial harp falling upon the floor restored the guests to
-motion; while Einion&rsquo;s attention was called to the
-restoration of his lovely bride, who, at the melancholy close of
-the fairy&rsquo;s song, had fainted, and still lay insensible in
-the arms of her father, the baron.</p>
-<p>The stone, at the upper end of the banqueting hall, is said to
-mark the spot upon which, for the last time, was heard the melody
-of &ldquo;<span class="smcap">The Minstrel Fay</span>!&rdquo;</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>&ldquo;A very pretty fable; and now let us return, to witness
-the procession at Llangollen,&rdquo; said I.</p>
-<p>Having taken refreshment, we proceeded to the church-yard, and
-stationed ourselves near a monument to the memory of Lady Eleanor
-Butler, Miss Ponsonby, and their faithful servant, Mrs. Mary
-Carrol.&nbsp; From this interesting spot, we beheld a novel
-sight.&nbsp; Two or three hundred villagers had assembled, and
-were scattered about the churchyard in groups; <a
-name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 118</span>some,
-stretched upon their backs, were sleeping on the flat tombstones,
-their hardy features protected from the scorching rays of the sun
-by the gay cotton handkerchief or the straw hat; some stood in
-knots, conversing upon the results likely to take place from
-petticoat government (for the proclamation had been received only
-the day previous); others gazing with eager eyes, upon a flight
-of steps, up which a number of smart village girls, with laughing
-eyes and ruddy faces, tripped lightly to a doorway, which
-entering, they, one by one, like shadows, disappeared.&nbsp;
-Every moment, the cemetery became more crowded, and, as I
-noticed, principally with the infirm and aged.&nbsp; Before me
-stood a palsy stricken creature, whose white locks waved about
-her face at every motion of her feeble head.&nbsp; Then came a
-form, once, doubtless, erect and handsome, but now by age so
-bent, that his head found a melancholy parallel with his hips,
-and a beechen staff supported his debilitated body.&nbsp; Another
-and another still pressed on, the sick, the lame, thronging to
-the gay scene, anticipating joy!&nbsp; As they passed, however,
-my busy fancy led them one by one, into a separate grave,
-realizing the awful conception of the Dance of Death!</p>
-<p>A strange, discordant sound, awakened me <a
-name="page119"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 119</span>from my
-reverie, and, although horribly harsh, I gave it welcome, for it
-banished a gloomy spirit from my mind.&nbsp; Turning my eyes
-towards the flight of steps, I saw the girls descending, each
-decorated with a white shawl with a blue border, and bearing a
-wand, (it being the symbol and costume of the society), at the
-top of which were laurel, and laurestinus leaves, intermingled
-with roses, lillies, etc., etc.&nbsp; The beadle of the parish,
-who on these occasions is no insignificant personage, was seen
-bustling about, arranging the form of procession, bringing
-forward this one, pushing back that, keeping order, and knocking
-the boys&rsquo; hats over their eyes for having approached the
-lines too closely; while the motley band, in various keys played,
-&ldquo;Oh the roast Beef of Old England;&rdquo; rather
-mal-&agrave;-propos, as I thought, as they were about to enter
-the church, and hear a sermon which is regularly preached on this
-day.</p>
-<p>The line now stretched to a considerable extent, and the lady
-patronesses appeared to be much delighted at viewing the busy
-scene, as they hurried to and fro, with benevolence beaming in
-their eyes; while old age, and decrepitude, cast away their
-sorrows and hailed the jocund scene.</p>
-<p>All being ready, the rector and his curate <a
-name="page120"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 120</span>placed
-themselves in the van, the lady patronesses followed, and to the
-sound of the inspiring bassoon, drum, keyed bugle, and cracked
-trumpet, they proceeded by the iron gate, through ranks of happy
-human beings ranged on either side, like old oaks, young
-saplings, nettles and pea blossoms, huddled together in
-&ldquo;promiscuous alliance.&rdquo;&nbsp; Having taken a
-prescribed circuit, they again entered the churchyard by another
-gate, and passed into the church; when a discourse, very much to
-the purpose, was given by the rector; after which, they adjourned
-to the Hand hotel, where they had a tea-total entertainment, and
-passed the evening in strolling about the gardens, listening to
-the inimitable band of wind instruments, which brayed out an
-execrable accompaniment to the exquisite music of the Dee, as it
-swept beneath them, overshadowed by the drooping foliage of the
-opposite bank.&nbsp; Altogether, it was a most gratifying
-sight&mdash;for the simple souls were happy.</p>
-<h2><a name="page121"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-121</span>CHAPTER V.</h2>
-<p class="gutsumm">Valle Crucis&mdash;The Abbey&mdash;Lines
-written in the ruins&mdash;A loquacious porteress&mdash;A view of
-the Abbey&mdash;The pillar of Eliseg&mdash;A parting&mdash;Road
-to Corwen&mdash;Vale of the Dee&mdash;The musical
-pedestrian&mdash;War song&mdash;Over the hills and far
-away&mdash;An adventure&mdash;Corwen&mdash;The
-Church&mdash;College&mdash;Cross and Circle&mdash;Air
-Llwyn-own&mdash;Route to Landrillo&mdash;An old soldier and his
-son&mdash;Village of Landrillo&mdash;A fair&mdash;Vale of
-Edeyrnion&mdash;Arrival at Bala.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Fill the Hirlas horn, my boy,<br />
-Nor let the tuneful lips be dry<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; That warble Owen&rsquo;s praise;<br />
-Whose walls with warlike spoils are hung,<br />
-And open wide his gates are flung,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; In Cambria&rsquo;s peaceful days.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;This hour bright is meant for joy,<br />
-Then fill the Hirlas horn, my boy,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; That shineth like the sea,<br />
-Whose azure handles, tipt with gold,<br />
-Invite the grasp of Britons bold,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; The sons of Liberty!&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: right"><i>From the Welsh of Prince Owen
-Cyveilog</i>, by R. W.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p><span class="smcap">On</span> the following morning, we bade
-adieu to Llangollen, and proceeded first to Valle Crucis.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p121b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Valle Crucis Abbey"
-title=
-"Valle Crucis Abbey"
- src="images/p121s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Like most abbeys, it is beautifully situated.&nbsp; The monks
-of old well appreciated the value of <a name="page122"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 122</span>rich lands and clear streams.&nbsp;
-An old woman received us at the gate, and instantly began to
-retail her information.&nbsp; &ldquo;Gryffyd ap Madoc, Lord of
-Bromfield and Yale, founded this abbey in the year
-1200.&rdquo;&nbsp; There are parts of both church and abbey still
-remaining; the former was cruciform, and exhibits several styles
-of architecture.&nbsp; The eastern end is the most ancient; it is
-adorned by three lancet slips, forming one grand window.&nbsp;
-The entrance was in the west, under a broad and beautiful window,
-above which is a smaller one, of a marigold form, decorated with
-tracery and fret-work, and beneath it may be deciphered the
-following inscription:</p>
-<blockquote><p>A.D.A.M.D.N.S fecit hoc opus, pace beat&acirc;
-quiescat Amen.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The cloisters are turned into a farmhouse and offices.</p>
-<p>This noble edifice was dismantled by Henry VIII.&nbsp; My
-companion, feeling desirous to bathe in the clear waters, left me
-to my contemplations, encompassed by the ruined walls of the
-abbey, and tall ash trees, which shaded the area of the
-church.&nbsp; I wandered from thence to the fish pond, which is
-near to the abbey, and, while my companion was enjoying his
-ablutions, my muse jogged my arm, and reminded <a
-name="page123"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 123</span>me that
-some tribute was due from me to this lovely spot.&nbsp; Taking
-out my pocket book and pencil, I produced the following</p>
-<h3>LINES WRITTEN AT VALLE CRUCIS.</h3>
-<blockquote><p>Monastic Valle Crucis! while I linger in thy
-shade,<br />
-The spirits of the olden time seem moving in the glade;<br />
-Rebuilt appear thy ruined walls, and thou art strong again,<br />
-As when the organ through those aisles poured forth its solemn
-strain.</p>
-<p>Here reigneth peace and solitude, as if some holy spell<br />
-Still charmed the blessed region where religion loved to
-dwell;<br />
-No music, save the streamlet&rsquo;s voice, disturbs the deep
-serene,<br />
-And breezy sounds sweet murmuring throughout the woodlands
-green.</p>
-<p>Oh fallen Valle Crucis! full six hundred years are gone<br />
-Since the warlike lord of Dinas Bean laid thy foundation
-stone;<br />
-And mighty didst thou flourish, till that fell destroyer came,<br
-/>
-Than mouldering time more ruthless, and of sacrilegious name.</p>
-<p>Then, holy Valle Crucis! was thy sacred roof thrown down,<br
-/>
-Thy peaceful inmates scattered, rent the sacerdotal gown;<br />
-The mournful ivy clustered o&rsquo;er thy grey and ruined
-walls,<br />
-And ash trees sprang, where torches blazed, within thy sainted
-halls.</p>
-<p><a name="page124"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-124</span>Hushed are the lips of all who dwelt within that
-cloistered fane;<br />
-And holy feet will never press the polished floors again,<br />
-At morning prayer and vesper hymn, which thrilled thy very
-stones&mdash;<br />
-Forgotten now those pious ones, and whitened are their bones!</p>
-<p>Yet ivy&rsquo;d Valle Crucis! thou art fairer in decay<br />
-Than all the splendid structures which adorn our modern day;<br
-/>
-In every mouldering fragment of thy consecrated pile<br />
-There&rsquo;s a charm to all who view thy walls, or tread thy
-broken aisle.</p>
-<p>Peace dwell around thee ever! may no heedless hand molest<br
-/>
-The solemn bird which builds in thee its ivy-mantled nest,<br />
-Whose breathings seem the deep-drawn sighs of bosoms fraught with
-pain,<br />
-Lamenting the departed, who will ne&rsquo;er return again.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The porteress of this ancient building is Ann Dale, who has
-lived in this solitary but delightful spot for two years; and,
-although a Shropshire woman, has made herself, during that
-period, sufficiently acquainted with the Welsh language to
-discourse fluently with the country people, in their native
-tongue; and has moreover committed to memory everything
-interesting, relative to the spot where she resides.&nbsp; It is
-evidently her delight to point out to strangers <a
-name="page125"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 125</span>the objects
-most worthy their attention; and her love of the venerable pile
-has induced her to take spade in hand, and clear away the rubbish
-that perhaps had for centuries been accumulating round the
-columns, leaving them clear to their foundations.&nbsp; Time has
-been over busy with her features; but her limbs are as active as
-those of a girl of sixteen, and her spirits are as light as her
-heels.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Ah, sir!&rdquo; said she, after enumerating the good
-offices she had received from the neighbouring gentry, and the
-friendly feelings of the more humble classes, &ldquo;I&rsquo;ve
-always made it a rule, throughout my life, to be civil to every
-body.&nbsp; Civility costs nothing, you know, and I&rsquo;m
-always surprised to hear people, when they are asked a simple
-question, if they chance to have a better coat on their backs
-than the person who addresses them, give an answer as if they
-were speaking to cattle, or worse brutes, when you know, sir,
-(approaching the cottage at the head of the pond) we are all the
-same flesh and blood, (pausing on the second step.)&nbsp; I
-don&rsquo;t say but there ought to be distinctions, for we
-can&rsquo;t be all gentlefolks, (entering.)&nbsp; But then,
-where&rsquo;s the difference, when we are as them that lie in the
-abbey there? or like these poor bones that I have in a box here,
-(opening <a name="page126"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-126</span>it and displaying some human relics.)&nbsp; They all
-comed out of the abbey ground, Sir.&nbsp; Why these might be a
-bishop&rsquo;s, or a great warrior&rsquo;s, for aught we know to
-the contrary.&nbsp; Well, sir, after all, there&rsquo;s nothing
-like good common sense.&nbsp; Solomon prayed for good sense, and
-he had it; and, thank God, I have it, too.&nbsp; Now, sir, come
-this way (leading back to the margin of the monks&rsquo; pond)
-and I&rsquo;ll show you something that shows what a thing
-Providence is.&nbsp; You see that stone jar there, sir&mdash;just
-there in the water; well, sir, you know there are no flies in the
-winter; so the poor fish would be sorely put about for food, but
-for Providence.&nbsp; Well, upon that jar I&rsquo;ve seen
-thousands and thousands of things like shells and patches of grey
-moss; and I&rsquo;ve seen the trout cluster about it, and feed
-upon &rsquo;em often.&nbsp; And, whenever I thinks of that, sir,
-it brings to my mind the 104th Psalm.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;What is the name of that mountain, my good lady, to
-S.E. of the abbey?&rdquo; I inquired.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Why that, sir, is called Fron Fawr.&nbsp; It is 1328
-feet above the level of the sea, sir.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>I thanked her for her information; and, prompted by an
-incontrollable appetite, ventured to ask if she could supply us
-with anything eatable.</p>
-<p><a name="page127"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-127</span>&ldquo;Why, I&rsquo;m afraid,&rdquo; said she
-&ldquo;that I have nothing that you&rsquo;ll like, sir; for
-I&rsquo;m a poor lone woman, and what suits me, wouldn&rsquo;t
-perhaps sit upon your honour&rsquo;s stomach.&nbsp; But there
-<i>were</i> a party here this morning, and they left behind
-&rsquo;em a pork-pie, because the dish got broke, and a piece of
-apple tart; and I have gotten a piece of oatcake, and a piece of
-cheese; if you could manage to put up with that, sir,
-you&rsquo;re quite welcome.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Talk of Christmas times, of roast beef and plum pudding!&nbsp;
-Give me June, with cold pork-pie, apple tart, and cheese, in a
-summer-house overlooking a monk&rsquo;s pond, and surrounded by
-waving woods and lofty trees, in view of the ruined abbey,</p>
-<blockquote><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&ldquo;Where monks of old<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; As I&rsquo;ve been told<br />
-Quaffed the merry, merry nut brown ale.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>By the time my travelling friend had returned from his bath,
-the table was furnished with fare calculated to satisfy his
-appetite, at the expense of pork-pie, tart, etc.&nbsp; Mixing the
-contents of our united flasks with the pure cool waters of the
-refreshing spring, inhaling the perfume of Havannah, and making a
-sofa out of two wooden chairs, we amused ourselves with a
-retrospective <a name="page128"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-128</span>view of the scenes we had passed through since we
-met.&nbsp; It was now twelve o&rsquo;clock, and, as it was my
-intention to reach Bala by nightfall, we rose to depart; and with
-many thanks and kind wishes from the old porteress of Valle
-Crucis, quitted that interesting ruin, and proceeded to</p>
-<h3>THE PILLAR OF ELISEG.</h3>
-<p>It stands in a meadow, a short distance from the abbey, and
-was a memorial of the dead; an improvement on the rude columns of
-Druidical times, sculptured into form, and surrounded with
-inscriptions.&nbsp; It is among the first lettered stones that
-succeed the Meini-Hirion, Meini-Gwyr and Llechan, and stood on a
-great tumulus, perhaps always environed with wood, according to
-the custom of the most ancient times, when standing pillars were
-placed under every green tree.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p128b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Pillar of Eliseg"
-title=
-"Pillar of Eliseg"
- src="images/p128s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>This pillar was erected above a thousand years ago, to the
-memory of Eliseg, the father of a Prince of Powis, called Rochwel
-Yscythrog, who met his death at the battle of Chester, in
-607.&nbsp; During the civil wars, this pillar was thrown down,
-and broken, and the shaft which was originally above twelve feet
-in length, is now only eight.&nbsp; At the suggestion of the Rev.
-John <a name="page129"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-129</span>Price, Bodleian librarian, and great antiquary, Mr.
-Lloyd, of Trevor Hall, had it placed in its present position.</p>
-<p>At this spot, my companion and I were to separate.&nbsp; I
-felt the approaching loss severely; for where could I expect to
-find another so amusing and so kind?</p>
-<p>&ldquo;You&rsquo;ll come and see me at Rhuthyn?&rdquo; said
-he.&nbsp; &ldquo;I have a snug cottage, a good housekeeper, a
-bed, and as good a glass of port as you will find in the
-neighbourhood;&mdash;promise to visit me at your
-return.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>I promised not to forget his hospitable invitation, and, with
-a feeling of regret I never before experienced at quitting a new
-acquaintance of so short standing, I squeezed his hand&mdash;and
-we parted.</p>
-<p>From Valle Crucis Abbey, I proceeded to the banks of the Dee,
-and crossing the rude bridge over the river struck into the high
-road to Corwen, and proceeded at a brisk pace.&nbsp; The country
-became highly interesting.&nbsp; The mountains are lofty; and
-beneath, upon the right, Glyndwrdwy, <i>the valley of the
-Dee</i>, discloses its picturesque beauty.&nbsp; This was the
-property of the celebrated Owen Glyndwr.</p>
-<p>The vale is so serpentine that it presents a succession of
-most exquisite views, and after <a name="page130"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 130</span>a walk of three miles, on looking
-back, Castle Dinas Bran seems placed upon a lower eminence.&nbsp;
-The valley of Llangollen may be seen likewise from hence for many
-miles, terminated by the distant mountains.</p>
-<p>After passing the fourth mile stone, the road takes a straight
-direction; and at this spot I came up with a person who, seated
-upon the road, was extracting some very tolerable music from one
-end of his walking cane.&nbsp; He was a tall thin man, with sharp
-features and large blue eyes.&nbsp; He had on a broad brimmed
-glazed hat, a blue frock coat, with nankeen pantaloons, short
-gaiters, and shoes.&nbsp; The rest of his wardrobe was wrapped in
-a pocket handkerchief; and his name, as I afterwards learnt, was
-Whiffler.</p>
-<p>Upon my approaching him, he withdrew his musical cane from his
-mouth, and observed that it seemed likely to rain; and, by the
-misty appearance of the atmosphere before us, I concluded he was
-right in his observations; for in that direction the country was
-nearly obscured, while behind us, the sun sent forth his
-brightest beams upon mountain and stream; though the valleys
-partly slept in shadow, as he slowly journeyed to his western
-couch.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Travelling far, sir?&rdquo; inquired my new
-companion.</p>
-<p><a name="page131"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-131</span>&ldquo;At my leisure,&rdquo; I replied.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Fine road, this, sir.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Capital.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Are you fond of music?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Passionately.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>This was sufficient encouragement to make my new acquaintance
-turn his staff once more into an instrument of sound, and he
-played a wild kind of march, which he assured me was called
-&ldquo;The War Tramp of Owen Glyndwr,&rdquo; the Welsh chieftain,
-who was so formidable an enemy to Henry IV.&mdash;Taking up the
-idea, I endeavoured to compose some appropriate lines for the
-air.&nbsp; (See music plate.) <a name="citation130"></a><a
-href="#footnote130" class="citation">[130]</a></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Have the kindness, sir,&rdquo; said my companion,
-&ldquo;to step out with your left foot at the beginning of the
-bar, and you will find it excellent marching time.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>I complied with the whimsical request, and he seemed much
-pleased at my readiness to oblige his humour; for he blew away
-unceasingly, and I dare say would never have thought of stopping,
-had I not pointed out a handsome house to him, upon the opposite
-hill, and requested him to tell me the name of its
-proprietor.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Do you mean that semibreve, in the middle of that
-forest of demi-semi-quavers?&rdquo;</p>
-<p><a name="page132"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 132</span>I
-laughed at his conceit, and replied in the affirmative.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Oh! that belongs to Mr. Jones, and is called
-Llandysilio Hall&mdash;a very worthy man.&nbsp; This glen, sir,
-has been the scene of many sanguinary conflicts.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Here he struck up &ldquo;The Battle of Prague,&rdquo; and we
-marched on for about a mile further, when he suddenly stopped
-short before a small public house, upon the road side.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I have an idea,&rdquo; said he, &ldquo;that a small
-drop of brandy, mixed with a little mulled ale, sugar and nutmeg,
-would make us get over the next four
-miles&mdash;prestissimo&mdash;eh?&nbsp; Con spirito,
-um?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>I agreed to the con spirito, but assured him a moderato
-movement would suit my inclination better for the remainder of
-the walk to Corwen.&nbsp; He then led the way into the house; and
-certainly, of all the comforts a tourist can experience, that of
-seeing a neatly sanded room, with shining oaken seats and tables,
-walls white as snow, pans and pots glittering in well ordered
-arrangement against them, a fine polished kitchen range enclosing
-a good fire, and a smiling, civil, hospitable hostess anxious to
-attend your commands, however trifling they may be, is the <a
-name="page133"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 133</span>most
-desirable.&nbsp; I never saw any country where so much attention
-is paid to the cleanliness of the interior of their cottages, if
-I except Holland, and in this respect the peasantry resemble each
-other.</p>
-<p>Having despatched this agreeable beverage, we resumed our
-walk, and in about ten minutes, the rain, which had long been
-threatening us, fell in torrents, and we resembled a couple of
-half drowned rats as we faced the storm.</p>
-<p>My companion, with a half-comic and half melancholy cast of
-countenance, observed, &ldquo;I declare, I can hardly make my
-instrument speak, although I have got a natural shake in my
-voice, as you may hear.&nbsp; Very cold, sir; isn&rsquo;t
-it?&nbsp; Look yonder,&rdquo; continued he, pointing to a clump
-of fir trees.&nbsp; &ldquo;There, sir, once stood the celebrated
-wooden house, attached to the mansion of that mighty warrior and
-magician who could</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Call spirits from the vasty
-deep&mdash;&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>for the purpose of lodging the guests.&nbsp; The mansion stood
-upon our left, and was formerly of grand dimensions, they say;
-though now alas! not a vestige of it remains.&nbsp; The site of
-the visitor&rsquo;s lodging rooms commands a fine prospect <a
-name="page134"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 134</span>of the
-valley.&nbsp; Perhaps you would like to walk up to it?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Certainly;&rdquo; and, accordingly, we jumped over a
-stile and climbed to the summit of the mound, from which a
-glorious view of the valley was obtained.&nbsp; Upon reaching the
-top, the traveller is surprised to find, that what he looked upon
-as a mere mound, when viewed from the road, assumes the form of a
-tremendous precipice as he looks down upon the dark waters of the
-Dee, (which wind around its base), and glances over the fertile
-valley stretched far beneath, where Glyndwr vanquished the
-oppressor Grey.&nbsp; I had fallen into a reverie, from which I
-was awakened by the shrill sounds of the musician&rsquo;s fife
-stick, which startled me with its discordant notes, and brought
-me back from the fourteenth century to the nineteenth, with a
-celerity far from pleasing.</p>
-<p>As we resumed our walk, we heard the rumbling of wheels, and
-the tramp of horses behind us, and pausing to see what vehicle
-was approaching, we beheld a kind of van, drawn by two enormous
-animals, as large as any of the breed employed in some of the
-London breweries.&nbsp; They were driven by a young man, of about
-nineteen years of age.</p>
-<p><a name="page135"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-135</span>&ldquo;Will you ride as far as Corwen?&rdquo; said he,
-at the same time pulling up his horses.</p>
-<p>As the rain was falling fast, and this conveyance promised to
-carry us to the town in half the time it would take us to walk
-thither, we gladly accepted the offer.&nbsp; I mounted by the
-side of the driver, having always a predilection for that seat;
-while my more prudent musical acquaintance jumped into the body
-of the cart, and was presently lost sight of beneath a dozen coal
-sacks, that covered several ale casks.</p>
-<p>I soon found that my situation was far from being
-enviable.&nbsp; In the first place, there was no foot board, and
-I kept slipping forward, every now and then, at the hazard of
-falling upon the horses&rsquo; heels.&nbsp; The air became more
-keen, the rain rattled upon my visage with greater violence than
-ever, and silently I confessed&mdash;forgive me ye gnomes and
-demons of the storm!&mdash;that notwithstanding the grandeur of
-the mountain-torrent, I should at that time have given a
-preference to a little of the &ldquo;mountain dew.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Presently, I heard the shrill sound of the fife issuing from
-underneath the sacks, to the tune of &ldquo;Over the hills and
-far away,&rdquo; and was about requesting the driver to stop,
-until I joined <a name="page136"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-136</span>my companion in his lair, when a smart lash upon the
-flank of the near horse made him dart off at a pace which defied
-all the efforts of the Welsh boor to check.&nbsp; With his right
-arm holding fast by the front rail of the caravan, he with his
-left pulled with all his strength to keep the horses in the road,
-and we dashed along, first upon one side, and then upon the
-other, for the middle was never kept, until I began to look out
-for the most comfortable landing place.&nbsp; I then caught hold
-of the near horse&rsquo;s rein, while he tugged away at the
-other.&nbsp; The seat was slippery, and the reins were wet, and
-our united efforts would have failed in checking their speed; but
-espying a hill about half a mile a-head of us,</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Now then, keep &rsquo;em together,&rdquo; said I,
-&ldquo;and let them have their race out, for they must stop at
-yonder hill.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>All this time the fife was whistling like mad, &ldquo;Go to
-the devil and shake yourselves;&rdquo; and Mr. Whiffler was
-luxuriating in blessed ignorance of our danger.</p>
-<p>Having made up my mind to the worst, but hoping for the best,
-I regaled myself with a sup of brandy from the pistol at my side,
-and then handed it to the driver, who drank&mdash;as if he liked
-it.&nbsp; We by this time reached the foot of <a
-name="page137"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 137</span>the hill,
-at the same slashing pace, and began the ascent in a first rate
-style; but, when we had got about half way up, we were startled
-by a loud cry behind us, and, upon turning my head, I saw poor
-Mr. Whiffler seated in the middle of the road, flourishing his
-musical cane, and shouting most vociferously for us to
-stop.&nbsp; It seemed that he was amusing himself with his
-favourite airs, and never felt the gradual retiring motion of the
-sacks as we ascended the hill, until he was fairly shot out at
-the tail of the van, where he lay sprawling; but, thanks to the
-friendly sacks, unhurt.</p>
-<p>Our frisky Flander&rsquo;s steeds, coming to the push at the
-steep rising ground, relaxed in their rapid course, became quiet
-as lambs, and at the summit of the bill were very glad to come to
-a dead halt to recover their breath; giving my musical friend
-ample time to come up with us, which he had no sooner done, than,
-as if nothing had occurred worth mentioning, he resumed his
-situation in the van, and struck up &ldquo;Drops of
-brandy.&rdquo;&nbsp; I took the hint, and presented him with my
-reserve, which he emptied with much apparent satisfaction, and
-returned the flask with thankfulness.&nbsp; Then resuming his
-unwearying amusement, he never ceased until we reached the inn at
-Corwen; not the principal one, but a <a name="page138"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 138</span>small house on the right of the
-street opposite to the Owen Glyndwr; which latter has a gigantic
-head over the door, much resembling the Saracen&rsquo;s of Snow
-Hill notoriety.</p>
-<p>I discovered the landlord of &ldquo;The Welsh Harp&rdquo; to
-be the proprietor of the van, and that the driver was his
-son.&nbsp; He also followed the occupation of watch and fishing
-tackle maker, and I willingly, therefore, took up my quarters
-with this specimen of Welsh rusticity, when invited, in
-preference to quartering at the great inn with the great head, as
-also did Mr. Whiffler.</p>
-<p>The first question put to the jolly landlord, was, &ldquo;What
-can you give us to eat?&rdquo;&nbsp; It was about three
-o&rsquo;clock in the day.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Why, sir, I have a nice roast duck and some peas, which
-were intended for John&rsquo;s,&rdquo; meaning our van-driver,
-&ldquo;dinner; but I shall be able to find something else for
-him.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;And how long, pray, will it be before it is
-ready?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;A quarter of an hour.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Very well, that will do; and, in the interim,
-I&rsquo;ll borrow one of your coats, and we will visit the
-church, if there is anything in it worth looking at.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>No sooner said than done; and a large blue coat, with two
-heavy capes, and brass buttons <a name="page139"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 139</span>of the size of crown pieces, was
-immediately brought forth, which I slipped into, it fitting
-me&mdash;like a sack!&nbsp; No matter&mdash;my own was thoroughly
-drenched, and was hanging before a blazing fire in the kitchen,
-reeking like a leg of mutton, hot from the boiler.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Would you like to slip into a pair of my leather
-breeches?&rdquo; inquired my hospitable host.</p>
-<p>This I thankfully declined, upon looking at the difference of
-our dimensions.&nbsp; My piping friend was comfortably seated in
-the chimney corner, and observing &ldquo;that he had never
-frequented church since he was married, having received at that
-time a shock he could never recover,&rdquo; he commenced playing
-the beautiful air of &ldquo;My ain fireside,&rdquo; whilst I,
-turning most heroically to the right about, again braved the
-&ldquo;pelting of the pitiless storm,&rdquo; accompanied by John,
-our driver, who, in a few minutes, conducted me to the ancient
-edifice.</p>
-<p>On one side of the altar is the lid of a coffin, which has the
-following inscription:</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Hic jacet Jorweth Sulien, vicarius de
-Corvaen ora pro eo.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>In the church wall is shewn the private doorway <a
-name="page140"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 140</span>through
-which Owen Glyndwr entered the building whenever he attended
-divine worship, and in the rock, which overhangs the churchyard,
-there is a recess, which bears the name of Glyndwr&rsquo;s chair;
-and the stone which now forms the lintel of the doorway leading
-to his pew, is said to retain the mark of his dagger, half an
-inch in depth, which he threw from the said chair; but upon what
-occasion it is not stated.</p>
-<p>In the churchyard is a range of building called Corwen
-College, having over the archway the following inscription:</p>
-<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">Corwen College,<br />
-For six widows of the Clergymen<br />
-Of the church of England,<br />
-Who died possessed of cures of souls,<br />
-In the county of Merionethshire.<br />
-Built and endowed<br />
-A.D MDCCL by the legacy of<br />
-William Egton Esq.<br />
-Of Plas-warren.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>In the cemetery there is a cross, fixed in a circular stone,
-westward of the steeple; and it is supposed that the name of
-Corwen is a corruption of Corvaen, and derived from the
-cross.&nbsp; Cor signifies a circle, and maen (which is likewise
-<a name="page141"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-141</span>considered to have been changed into vaen) if joined to
-cor, means a cross in the circle.</p>
-<p>Having satisfied my curiosity here, I returned to the public
-house, and the first object which met my delighted eyes was the
-promised duck, accompanied by a dish of most elegant trout; a
-dainty for which I had been longing ever since I entered this
-territory of rocks and torrents.&nbsp; My friend was already
-placed at the table, and he clapped his hands, and rubbed them
-with evident delight and satisfaction at seeing me arrive so
-opportunely.&nbsp; The fish despatched, duck and green peas in
-close column brought up the rear.&nbsp; But I and my gallant
-comrade&mdash;a better trencherman ne&rsquo;er poised a
-fork&mdash;attacked in line, cut up the one, and routed the
-other, with the most determined bravery.&nbsp; The right and left
-wings were attacked and cut off from the main body, which with
-all its material we dispersed in the glorious conflict, remaining
-masters of the field.</p>
-<p>Although I thus warmly express my satisfaction at partaking of
-this not easily-to-be-forgotten luxury, let me not be mistaken
-for a gourmand; but a wet and tired traveller, however much his
-mind may be enchanted by the scenery through which he passes,
-never beholds a more delightful prospect than a comfortable meal
-at his journey&rsquo;s end.&nbsp; It so happened, however, <a
-name="page142"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 142</span>that this
-was not to be my journey&rsquo;s end, for a blaze of light darted
-into the room at the moment John had carried off the spoils from
-our field of battle, and the glorious orb of day shone forth in
-cloudless majesty.</p>
-<p>Wine in such a house, being out of the question, we ordered a
-jug of warm punch, and having drank success to my musical friend
-in a brimming goblet, I began to think, as my time was limited,
-and his path lay towards Cerrig-y-Drudion, and mine towards Bala,
-I had better reach that place before dark.&nbsp; My companion
-having divested himself of his shoes and stockings, and adopted
-those of the landlord, and feeling himself comfortable before the
-fire, resolved upon remaining where he was until bedtime.&nbsp;
-Wishing him, therefore, a pleasant evening, and a good
-night&rsquo;s repose, I once more took the road for another walk
-of ten miles; while I heard the shrill sounds of his fife stick
-playing the Welsh air of &ldquo;Farewell Glanddyn.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>At the end of the village, I was attracted by the eyes of the
-prettiest little Welsh lass that I remember having seen in the
-country.&nbsp; Health bloomed in her cheek, and animation darted
-from her sloe-black eyes.&nbsp; She was talking to a village lad,
-who appeared to be much abashed <a name="page143"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 143</span>by some reproof she had given him;
-and presently, with a significant nod of the head and an
-admonitory glance of the eye, she turned briskly from him, and
-frisked by me, humming a Welsh air&mdash;the first that I had
-heard since I entered the principality&mdash;while the youth,
-with a smile and a sigh, turned in a contrary direction,
-exclaiming, &ldquo;Ah, Jenny, if you refuse so many, you may
-happen to pray for one yet.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>I afterwards discovered that the Welsh air was called after
-the mansion of Mr. Edward Jones, the compiler of that most
-interesting book of Cambrian lore, the Bardic Museum.&nbsp; I
-instantly determined to put the idea I had formed in my mind of
-the Welsh lass into verse, and to adapt the lines to the music.
-(See plate.) <a name="citation143"></a><a href="#footnote143"
-class="citation">[143]</a></p>
-<p>Every thing looked cheerful; the birds carroled joyously from
-the trees and bushes; and I joined in the chorus.&nbsp; A robin
-appeared to be much taken with my vocal powers, and for a good
-while kept me company, alighting constantly some ten or twelve
-yards before me, and listening attentively until I had passed as
-far; then, passing me again in his flight, he took up his station
-as before.&nbsp; &ldquo;Poor bird!&rdquo; thought I, &ldquo;I
-remember in my boyhood I have followed some of your race as
-eagerly as you now follow me; and my ears drank in their notes,
-intoxicating <a name="page144"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-144</span>my senses with delight.&nbsp; I shall never forget the
-old mulberry tree that grew in our play grounds, shadowing a
-pretty little hermitage in which I used to sit apart from my
-schoolfellows and listen to the notes of that delightful warbler,
-with whom I grew familiar, and fed every evening with crumbs of
-bread, saved from my dinner.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>How extraordinary it appears that the past should always seem
-more delightful than the present!&nbsp; I am convinced, that I
-was more miserable during my school-boy days than I have been
-since, and yet my mind returns to the brighter portions of the
-picture only.&nbsp; The April beams that dried up the tears of my
-youth live in the memory, while the clouds and showers are buried
-in oblivion.&nbsp; Youth, youth!&mdash;why should we ever grow
-old? why are we not as fresh and green at sixty as we are at
-twenty?&mdash;why may we not enjoy the blessings of vigour, the
-elastic bound, the rosy tint, the boundless flow of spirits, the
-freshness of imagination, until the moment when we drop into the
-grave?&mdash;But sentimentalism is a bad subject for sale, and
-therefore I have no business to introduce any chapters of such a
-nature in this little work.</p>
-<p>At a short distance from Corwen, a road branches off to the
-left, along which the traveller <a name="page145"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 145</span>should trudge to the village of
-Llandrillo, and he will be repaid by the sight of one of the most
-fertile valleys in Wales.&nbsp; It is a mile farther to Bala by
-this route, but the superior beauty of the scenery will amply
-recompense him for the extra distance; for, with the exception of
-a view of Bala lake, obtained from an eminence on the road, which
-runs along the opposite side of the valley, it is dull and
-uninviting.&nbsp; But, on the contrary, by the Llandrillo route,
-the eye is delighted with a succession of scenes, varied and
-interesting in the extreme.&nbsp; Huge masses of rock hang over
-the road, upon the left, in threatening grandeur, while waving
-woods, and falling streams, give endless variety to the
-picture.</p>
-<p>After proceeding four miles, I crossed a bridge over a fine
-trout stream, the banks of which are shaded with trees; and,
-turning into an avenue upon the right, seated myself by the
-margin of the brook, secured from the hot rays of the mid-day
-sun, and fancied myself the melancholy Jacques.&nbsp; There only
-wanted a wounded stag, to make the illusion perfect.</p>
-<p>Here I was shortly after joined by an old man and his son,
-who, after some hours&rsquo; fishing, had contrived to fill a
-moderately sized basket with very fine trout.&nbsp; The father
-was tall and thin, with prominent features, sharp grey eyes, and
-<a name="page146"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 146</span>grey
-locks; his port was erect, &ldquo;stiff as a ramrod,&rdquo; and
-if he had been unfortunate enough to have had a lame leg, he
-would have made an excellent representation of Corporal
-Foss.&nbsp; The son, a youth of about nineteen, was clad in a
-suite of clothes so tattered, that my curiosity was excited to
-learn at which rent he got into them.&nbsp; His fishing basket
-was slung at his back, and his rod was composed of odds and ends;
-his hat, from long exposure to the weather, had lost its crown,
-while the rim was torn into ribands.&nbsp; If ever the god of
-love assumed the disguise of ragged poverty, he could not have
-chosen a better model, both in person and attire.&nbsp; His
-height was about five feet, nine inches; his face a perfect oval;
-his hair, which stole in clustering curls from beneath its
-wretched covering, was of the brightest auburn; his forehead was
-broad and high; his eyebrows finely arched, and his dark blue
-eyes were lighted up with the fire of animation; his nose, teeth,
-and chin were perfectly beautiful; his neck and shoulders would
-be invaluable to a sculptor; and his whole graceful frame seemed
-formed for strength and activity.&nbsp; His demeanour was
-respectful and modest, and the contrast between the noble
-creature and his sorry garb was painfully striking.&nbsp; There
-was, however, a look of <a name="page147"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 147</span>independence and a freedom in his
-gait, which suited well with the surrounding scene.</p>
-<p>The old man seated himself near me, and lamented that he could
-not obtain any fire to light his pipe.&nbsp; This element I
-quickly supplied him with, and, lighting a cigar for myself, we
-resembled a knot of Indian warriors smoking &ldquo;the calumet of
-peace.&rdquo;&nbsp; I entered into conversation, offering my
-flask, by way of making a favourable impression.&nbsp; They
-thankfully availed themselves of my offer, and my expectations
-were not disappointed.&nbsp; The old man told me that he had been
-a soldier in his youth, and fought in many battles, both in Egypt
-and Spain, and was now in the receipt of a pension from
-government, for honourable wounds, which at various times he had
-received in the service of his country.</p>
-<p>While his father whiffed his tobacco, the youth angled down
-the stream, but soon returned and, respectfully and gracefully
-declining my invitation to renew his draught, he stood looking
-down upon us, his arms folded across his chest, embracing his
-rod, and listening modestly to the old man&rsquo;s
-narration.&nbsp; I sat an hour with these two beings, and, having
-purchased a casting line and some flies from the elder fisherman,
-he put two extra ones into my hands, saying: <a
-name="page148"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-148</span>&ldquo;There, sir, are two flies, with which I killed
-some fine trout, yesterday.&nbsp; I&rsquo;ll make you a present
-of them; and, when you are killing your fish, perhaps
-you&rsquo;ll think of the old soldier.&rdquo;&nbsp; So, with
-mutual thanks, we parted.</p>
-<p>As I entered the village of Llandrillo, I was much delighted
-with the lively scene.&nbsp; The long street was crowded with
-peasantry, in their holiday clothes.&nbsp; On each side were
-stalls, formed of tubs turned upside down, and boards placed upon
-them, to support their merchandise; square patches strewed with
-straw and covered with crockery and glass; tables well stored
-with woollen hose and mittens; and stands of gingerbread and
-ginger-pop were liberally stationed in different quarters, to
-gratify and refresh the happy throng.&nbsp; At times, a sudden
-opening in the crowd took place, the whole mass of people jamming
-each other upon either side of the street, to make way for a
-trotting pony, or an ambling nag, to curvet and prance down the
-middle and up again, to show his paces.&nbsp; At the upper end of
-the fair, a hardware man harangued a crowd of people from his
-travelling warehouse (a covered cart,) endeavouring to persuade
-them that he came to Llandrillo solely for their benefit, and for
-no selfish motive upon earth, and labouring to convince them, in
-<a name="page149"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-149</span>brazier-like eloquence, that the articles he offered to
-their notice were considerably under prime cost, and could not be
-purchased elsewhere for treble the money;&mdash;but, though he
-sold at a great sacrifice to himself, he begged them not to
-consider his loss, but their own gain; such an opportunity would
-never again present itself, therefore now was their only time to
-buy cheap!</p>
-<p>A party of Welsh girls attracted my attention, gathered
-together in front of a wall, upon which a line of men&rsquo;s
-hats were ranged, of various qualities and prices; and great glee
-and laughter were elicited, as each fitted the new beaver upon
-her head, it being considered the ne plus ultra of taste, and a
-powerful auxiliary to the coquetry of a Welsh girl.</p>
-<p>Leaving Llandrillo, and proceeding towards Bala, the traveller
-enters the</p>
-<h3>VALE OF EDEYRNION.</h3>
-<p>The mountains here, upon either side, are covered with
-plantations, and the beautiful Dee winds gracefully in the centre
-of the valley, through delightful meadows, while corn fields wave
-upon the sloping banks, and everything presents to the eye the
-appearance of freshness <a name="page150"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 150</span>and fertility, cheerfulness and
-content.&nbsp; At the bridge near Llandderfel, a small village,
-which is first observed upon the opposite bank of the Dee, a
-splendid view presents itself.&nbsp; The river here is broad,
-shallow, and deep, by turns, and looking up or down the vale, its
-meandering sportiveness charms the eye.&nbsp; At the extremity of
-the valley is a lofty mountain, planted to the summit, which
-seems so closely to envelop it, as to prevent all egress.&nbsp;
-To stand upon this bridge at sunset, and listen to the whistle of
-the sheep boy as he trudges merrily along the road, the song of
-the husbandman, or the joyous laugh of the milkmaids&mdash;sounds
-that float upon the silent air for miles, at such an
-hour,&mdash;the twittering of the birds, before they hide their
-heads beneath their wings to seek repose&mdash;the low craik of
-the rail, amidst the corn&mdash;and sweeter than all, the music
-of the river, discharging liquid sounds from its transparent
-bosom,&mdash;creates a sensation which we are at a loss how to
-express.&nbsp; Excess of pleasure becomes painful; and,
-overpowered with delight, nature asserts her influence, and we
-experience the luxury of tears!&mdash;at least, I did, and I pity
-from my soul the man who is unfortunately incapable of a similar
-feeling.</p>
-<p>Passing through the little village of Llanver, <a
-name="page151"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 151</span>and
-crossing a stream over the bridge close by the lodge of Mr. Price
-of Rhewlas, I at length arrived at the Bull&rsquo;s Head in the
-town, to which house I had been recommended by a passing
-traveller; and, tired with my day&rsquo;s exertions, called for a
-tea-dinner and slippers.</p>
-<h3>BALA.</h3>
-<p>Both these luxuries were furnished me by the fair hands of
-Martha Jones, the landlady&rsquo;s unmarried sister, a lively,
-black-eyed, pretty lass, who, in being a spinster, proves that
-the Bala lads are greatly deficient in taste, or that Martha has
-set her cap at something better than is to be found in Bala.</p>
-<p>Two gentlemen were seated in the room when I entered, each of
-whom were discussing the merits of a glass of brandy and
-water.&nbsp; One of them (a young man who I afterwards discovered
-was a captain&rsquo;s clerk in the East India service, upon
-leave,) was making himself particularly entertaining to his
-companion, by relating a number of anecdotes about a relative, a
-clergyman, whose residence is somewhere in the neighbourhood.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Ha! ha! ha! you remember the time when the dinner was
-given at &mdash;; well, the old boy <a name="page152"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 152</span>as usual, had got too much grog
-aboard, and without a rudder, began to crowd sail for the
-stable&mdash;my eyes! how he did traverse! but at last, a gale
-took his topsail right aback, and capsising him into the kennel,
-he began to roar out for help.&nbsp; &lsquo;What&rsquo;s the
-matter?&rsquo; cried twenty voices at a time.&nbsp; &lsquo;Oh
-help! help me up,&rsquo; cried the old boy, &lsquo;for I&rsquo;m
-the Lord&rsquo;s servant!&rsquo;&nbsp; &lsquo;Ay, ay,&rsquo;
-cried one, &lsquo;and you&rsquo;re like all the rest of
-&rsquo;em, want a good deal of looking after.&rsquo;&nbsp; Ha,
-ha, ha!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>This anecdote, required another glass of brandy and water to
-wash it down; which being brought, this irreverend humorist
-rehearsed a number of other circumstances concerning his
-eccentric relative, amongst which was a story of his ascending
-the pulpit, to preach a sermon, &ldquo;and kneeling down,&rdquo;
-said he, &ldquo;he placed his hand upon the cushion, in the
-attitude of prayer, closed his port holes, and fell into
-a&mdash;sound sleep!&nbsp; The congregation waited&mdash;and
-waited&mdash;until their patience was quite exhausted, and one
-after another began to heave anchor.&nbsp; The clerk, at last,
-ventured to awaken his pastor just in time for him to see the
-last of his parishioners leaving the church.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>I was truly sorry to find, upon inquiry, that this was but too
-true a tale of the old man, <a name="page153"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 153</span>whose years are many, and who must
-be well aware, that a very short time can elapse, before he will
-become a tenant of the grave.</p>
-<p>Wearied with the conversation, I rang for my bed candle, and
-retired to rest.</p>
-<h2><a name="page154"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-154</span>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
-<p class="gutsumm">Bala&mdash;The Lake&mdash;A Meeting of
-Magistrates&mdash;The Doctor&mdash;Rhewlas&mdash;Lines written at
-Rhewlas&mdash;Farewell to the Bull&rsquo;s Head&mdash;A
-Jolter&mdash;Llanthyn&mdash;Vale of Drwstynrnt&mdash;Legend of
-handsome Hugh and the Fairy&mdash;Cader
-Idris&mdash;Dolgelley&mdash;Song &ldquo;Mountain
-Mary&rdquo;&mdash;The Town Hall&mdash;Parliament House&mdash;St.
-Mary&rsquo;s Church&mdash;Inns&mdash;Angling Station,
-Doluwcheogryd&mdash;The Cataracts of Rhaiadr Du and Pistyll y
-Cain&mdash;Nannau Park&mdash;Anecdote of Owen Glyndwr and Howell
-Sele&mdash;Road to Barmouth&mdash;Arrival&mdash;Inns&mdash;A Walk
-on the sands.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;I lay on the rock where the storms have
-their dwelling,<br />
-The birth place of phantoms, the home of the cloud,<br />
-Around it for ever deep music is swelling&mdash;<br />
-The voice of the mountain wind, solemn and loud.&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Mrs.
-Hemans</span>.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p><span class="smcap">On</span> the following morning, I found
-myself unable to walk, from the effect produced by a sprained
-ancle, and I had the delightful prospect of being confined to the
-room of an inn in a country town, without a being to converse <a
-name="page155"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 155</span>with, or a
-book to enliven me; but my kind landlord, a fine portly,
-rosy-cheeked, round-headed, honest-hearted Boniface, as ever drew
-spigot, kindly offered me a pony, to take me to the lake, which,
-he said, contained plenty of perch.&nbsp; This offer, I
-thankfully accepted, and, by the aid of mine host and his ostler,
-was soon seated upon the back of a quiet
-not-to-be-put-out-of-his-way animal, as any clerical gentleman
-could desire to ride upon, and</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;With slow and solemn pace,&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>proceeded to catch fish, and view the scenery around</p>
-<h3>LLYN TEGID, OR BALA LAKE.</h3>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p155b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Bala Lake"
-title=
-"Bala Lake"
- src="images/p155s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Seated upon a rock that projects into the lake (under the
-shadow of which is the boat house of Mr. Price, of Rhewlas, of
-whom, more anon) I commenced my solitary pastime; but my eyes
-continually wandered from the float, to the surrounding scenery,
-which is of a pleasing rather than an imposing nature.&nbsp; The
-lake was slightly ruffled by a refreshing breeze, which
-fortunately sprang up, and prevented me from dissolving in the
-heat of the sun.&nbsp; It is about four miles in length, and in
-some parts it is forty yards <a name="page156"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 156</span>in depth.&nbsp; The shores are
-sloping, the soil gravelly, and delightfully variegated with
-plantations of trees and shrubs.&nbsp; Towards the head of the
-lake, the mountains are upon a very grand scale, and rival
-Snowdon in their altitude; <i>Arran Fowddwy</i> is the loftiest
-of these, near the summit of which, upon its eastern side,
-beneath a huge crag, is situated a lake, which affords excellent
-sport to the angler, although the fish are not of the finest
-quality.</p>
-<p><i>Arrenig Vawr</i>, (or great), which is nearly as lofty as
-Arran Fowddwy, and rises upon the N.W. side of the Llyn, has also
-a lake, containing trout of a large size, which are noted for
-rejecting the artificial fly; but, about half way up the
-<i>Arrenig V&acirc;ch</i>, (or little) is a lake, which when a
-light breeze sweeps along its surface, will amply reward the
-angler for his trouble, in reaching it.&nbsp; A morning, and an
-evening, at each of these places, enable me to state thus much,
-for the benefit of the disciples of Isaac Walton.</p>
-<p>I was suddenly aroused from a dream of pleasure, which I was
-enjoying, with my eyes open, by a tug at my line, reminding me,
-that a fish had swallowed the hook.&nbsp; After a little
-coquetting, which lovers usually make use of, I brought it to my
-arms, and then thrust it into <a name="page157"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 157</span>my bag; a fine perch!&nbsp; I now
-resolved, to begin in earnest, and in an hour, by my temptation
-and insinuation, contrived to obtain a very handsome dish, with
-which I returned upon my pony to the inn, resigning them and
-myself to the care of Martha Jones.&nbsp; This was the only
-uncomfortable evening I passed at the Bull&mdash;and with respect
-be it spoken, all my uneasiness was occasioned, by the
-magistrates of the county, who had met to discuss the important
-business of their various districts, and to join in the</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Feast of dainties and the flow of
-port.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>All the while, the honest landlord, who resembled a
-&ldquo;turtle on his hind fins,&rdquo; waddled about in high
-glee.&nbsp; It was a great day for the Bull&rsquo;s Head! and his
-joy resembled Dennis Bulgruddery&rsquo;s, of the Red Cow, when he
-saw a traveller on the heath, walking in the direction of his
-long neglected hostelry.&nbsp; The confusion of sounds distracted
-my brain, and I was almost tempted to exclaim, in the language of
-Falstaff,</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Is hell broke loose?&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>However, remembering that it was occasioned, <a
-name="page158"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 158</span>by a
-meeting of magistrates, my reverence for the laws, and the
-distributors of them, made me place my disabled foot upon a
-chair, &ldquo;like patience on a monument, smiling at
-grief.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>I was informed that Mr. Price was among the assembly, to whom,
-through the kindness of Mr. W&mdash;, I had a letter of
-introduction.&nbsp; My accident, however, would prevent my dining
-with the party, and I concluded it would be better to wait until
-the ensuing morning, to pay my respects to him.&nbsp; A couple of
-ducks, with green peas, and a pint of pale sherry, assisted to
-restore my good humour; and, after poring over the pages of an
-old magazine, till the book became a pillow for my head, I had my
-foot dressed and resigned myself to the influence of
-Morpheus.&nbsp; My bed room window (the blinds of which, I had
-neglected to pull down, before I retired to bed) permitted the
-full blaze of the morning sun to shine upon my slothful pillow,
-and rouse me from my slumber.&nbsp; A great fault, in all the
-Welsh inns, is that Morpheus seems to have complete and
-undisputed prevalence over the whole household.&nbsp; After
-satisfying myself that I could walk across the room, I thought I
-would endeavour to see something more of the town, and stroll
-about, until such time as breakfast could be prepared.&nbsp; I
-accordingly <a name="page159"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-159</span>dressed, put on the spacious slippers I had been
-provided with on the previous night, took a strong ash stick in
-my hand, by way of crutch, and hobbled into the pure air.</p>
-<p>The town of Bala consists of one long street, has about 2500
-inhabitants, and is celebrated for its manufacture of woollen
-articles, such as stockings, gloves, and, formerly, Welsh
-wigs.&nbsp; Upon an eminence at the S. E. end of the town, the
-old women and young girls assemble in considerable numbers during
-the summer months, to pursue their industrious avocations in the
-open air.&nbsp; The mound is called, <i>Tommen y Bala</i>; it is
-said to be of Roman construction; and, from the summit, a very
-fine view may be obtained of Llyn Tegid and the mountains.&nbsp;
-There is a town hall, and a chapel of ease to the parish church
-at Llanycil, about a mile distant, where the morning service is
-read in English only upon the first Sunday in each month.&nbsp;
-Finding my exertion too great for my ease, I was glad to hobble
-into the shop of the village apothecary and surgeon.&nbsp; It was
-half past eight o&rsquo;clock, and the drowsy shop boy, who
-appeared but recently to have left his bed, informed me, that
-perhaps his master would be down in a short time.&nbsp; This
-indefinite period did not suit my patience, and I requested him
-<a name="page160"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 160</span>to give
-his master a call.&nbsp; Still he came not.&nbsp; I became
-fidgetty, and began to be indignant, half resolving to leave the
-shop, when a little, stiff, consequential looking personage made
-his appearance, gazing upon me with a look in which much
-dissatisfaction was manifest.&nbsp; My travelling garb (for I had
-not discarded my shooting jacket, at this early hour, in favour
-of a more appropriate morning costume) did not inspire him with
-much suavity; but, after a minute survey, he, with all the
-dignity of five feet, pointed to a chair, which I a short time
-before had quitted to look at some maps that adorned the walls of
-the room, I bared my ancle for his inspection, and he informed me
-truly, that rest alone could be of service to me.&nbsp; With this
-comfortable advice, which I had previously determined not to
-follow, I returned to the inn, breakfasted, ordered out the pony,
-and set off to visit Mr. Price, of Rhewlas.</p>
-<p>A handsome gateway opens into the grounds of Rhewlas; a neat
-lodge is situated upon the right of the avenue, and upon the
-left, a fine mountain stream dashes over its black, rocky
-bed.&nbsp; Half way up the avenue, upon the right, is a beautiful
-dingle, over which a bridge is thrown for the accommodation of
-passengers, and under it a murmuring rill, glides on its course
-to the principal <a name="page161"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-161</span>stream.&nbsp; A profusion of rhododandrums, of a kind,
-are interspersed amongst the trees, and shrubs, forming a
-delightful contrast.&nbsp; Here the noble oak, the beech, and
-birch, flourish luxuriously in common with the other numerous
-leafy tenants of the forest, whose ever varying hues delight the
-eye.</p>
-<p>The house is situated on a rising ground, backed by the
-mountain and extensive woods, and commands a noble prospect.</p>
-<p>After dinner, I accompanied Mr. Price in his phaeton, to take
-a survey of the estate, and was much delighted with the evident
-pleasure he took, in improving the roads in the
-neighbourhood.&nbsp; Under his auspices, a new line of road is
-joined to Corwen, which, although deficient in picturesque
-beauty, is shorter by one mile than that by Llandrillo, and
-affords far better travelling.</p>
-<p>Mr. Price has planted, during his residence at this lovely
-spot, no less than 650 acres, and the domain altogether presents
-a picture of beauty and happiness, seldom to be met with.&nbsp;
-He is much respected; is a magistrate, and a resident; and, in
-consequence, knows the value of his land.&nbsp; He considers, and
-administers to the wants of his tenants, and, instead of
-extorting from them a rent they would be compelled <a
-name="page162"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 162</span>to starve
-themselves to pay, he limits it to a sum which will enable them
-to live in comfort.</p>
-<p>It was twilight when I left Rhewlas, and by the side of the
-dingle I have before mentioned, I paused to gaze once more upon
-the beauty of the scene, and traced a few lines, expressive of my
-feelings, upon quitting so delightful a solitude.</p>
-<blockquote><p>Farewell to fair Rhewlas! and farewell to thee,<br
-/>
-Thou pride of the vallies, thou fast flowing Dee!<br />
-Whose stream glides in brightness from Bala&rsquo;s fair
-breast,<br />
-And wanders in beauty through regions of rest.<br />
-Farewell to thee, Rhewlas! how blest were my lot,<br />
-With friends round and near me, the gay world forgot,<br />
-Here, here, in the soft lap of quiet to dwell,<br />
-Farewell to thee Rhewlas! sweet Rhewlas, farewell!</p>
-<p>The bright golden summer hath fill&rsquo;d thee with
-glee&mdash;<br />
-The song of the thrush, and the boom of the bee,<br />
-The wild flowers&rsquo; fragrance, the breath of the rose,<br />
-And green woods that kiss the dark stream as it flows:<br />
-To scenes grand and gloomy my footsteps may stray,<br />
-Where terror frowns dreadful along the wild way,<br />
-But beauty for aye in this region shall dwell,<br />
-Farewell to thee, Rhewlas! sweet Rhewlas, farewell!</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>I returned to the inn, much pleased with my day&rsquo;s
-entertainment, happy to find that my ancle was comparatively
-easy, and ordered a <a name="page163"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 163</span>car to be ready on the following
-morning to convey me ten miles on the road to Dolgelly.</p>
-<p>Rising early, I found no inconvenience from my ancle; and,
-after a good breakfast, took leave of my host, and his wife, of
-Martha Jones, and the Bull&rsquo;s Head, all of whom appeared
-anxious to see me comfortably seated in the vehicle, and with
-kindest farewells, expressed a desire of speedily seeing me
-again&mdash;all excepting the Bull&rsquo;s Head, poor thing,
-which being a dummy only looked a good bye; and taking every
-thing into consideration, he looked it very well.</p>
-<p>The car in which I was bumped along the road, in every respect
-resembled those delightful conveyances that rattle the astonished
-traveller from Cork to Blarney.&nbsp; It is a sort of oval box,
-placed upon two wheels, with a door behind, and with good wedging
-will contain four persons; but being springless and cushionless,
-the passenger is jolted to his heart&rsquo;s content, that is, if
-his heart has been set on jolting; and, without doubt, it is fine
-exercise for persons of sedentary habits, if by any chance, their
-bones happen to escape dislocation.&nbsp; My knapsack (my
-opposite, and only fellow passenger) and I, looked very black at
-each other, as we bobbed up and down, like a cockney
-grocer&rsquo;s apprentice upon a high trotting horse; but I soon
-became resigned, and my <a name="page164"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 164</span>knapsack having shifted its berth
-for the bottom of the vehicle, seemed to rest more comfortably
-than on the seat.&nbsp; Notwithstanding the inconvenience I
-suffered from this carriage, I could not help admiring the
-extreme beauty of the lake, as we pursued our course along its
-borders; sometimes, only catching a glimpse of it, through the
-trees that shaded its delightful margin.&nbsp; Its waters were
-smooth and motionless; not a ripple was visible upon its surface;
-the lofty mountains reflected in its breast gave a sombre tinge
-to the otherwise golden scene, and, as I looked into the clear
-depths of the shadows, I thought, how peacefully one shattered by
-the storms of life might sink beneath, and be at rest!</p>
-<p>After passing Llanthyn, (an estate belonging to Sir W. W.
-Wynn, who claims the whole fishing of this beautiful piece of
-water, and has, by putting a quantity of pike therein, destroyed
-all the trout and gwynniad with which it once abounded), the
-scenery became wild, and cheerless, until we reached</p>
-<h3>THE VALE OF DRWSTYNRNT,</h3>
-<p>where, to my great satisfaction, the car stopped at the sign
-of the Welsh Prince, a distance of ten miles from Bala, and eight
-from Dolgelly.&nbsp; <a name="page165"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 165</span>Being thoroughly tired with my ride,
-I thought I would endeavour to obtain the proper use of my limbs,
-and rest myself by walking the remainder of the journey.&nbsp;
-Dismissing the car, therefore, and strapping my knapsack to my
-shoulders, I once more took the road.</p>
-<p>About a mile beyond the Welsh Prince, the valley becomes truly
-beautiful.&nbsp; Waving woods adorn the mountains upon either
-side.&nbsp; The Wnion here begins to be an important stream; and,
-though in its course towards Dolgelly it is swelled by numerous
-mountain tributaries into a broad river, the trees upon its banks
-form an impenetrable screen, which conceal it from the traveller,
-and its hoarse murmur, as it dashes over the rocks that vainly
-endeavour to intercept its way, alone remind him of its
-vicinity.&nbsp; At length, I arrived at a spot, where a road
-leads over a bridge to the opposite side of the river.&nbsp;
-Thinking this would be a proper place to see the Wnion to
-advantage, I advanced to the centre of the bridge.&nbsp; The
-effect is beautiful; hanging woods adorn the banks of the stream,
-lofty ash trees, (around the trunks of which the ivy winds itself
-in snakelike folds, feeding upon the tree that supports it),
-spread their proud heads above, and form a pleasing shade, while
-below the river roars, as it is precipitated beneath the <a
-name="page166"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 166</span>arch in two
-large falls, that form a deep pool on the opposite side.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;It was in that pool,&rdquo; said a voice at my
-shoulder, &ldquo;that Hugh Evans first saw the
-fairy.&rdquo;&nbsp; Upon turning round, I saw an old man, much
-bent with age, knitting hose.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;What fairy, my good man?&rdquo; said I, &ldquo;and who
-was Hugh Evans?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Ah! you are a stranger here, sir.&nbsp; Why, it&rsquo;s
-a tale my grandfather used to tell me, of a lad, who worked with
-him in the fields yonder.&rdquo;</p>
-<h3>HUGH EVANS, AND THE FAIRY.</h3>
-<p>Hugh was a handsome lad, and all the girls were mad for love
-of him; but he was a prudent youth, and would not notice any of
-them, for he thought as he could hardly earn enough to support
-himself, he had no chance of supporting others.&nbsp; Well, one
-day as he was returning from work, he leant over the bridge,
-where you are now standing, sir, and what should he see, but a
-beautiful young creature, bathing in the deep water there.&nbsp;
-Well, he knew it was a fairy, for he never had seen any thing
-half so beautiful before; and he couldn&rsquo;t for the life of
-him take his eyes from her, though she was as naked (saving your
-presence) as when she was born.&nbsp; <a name="page167"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 167</span>She had long black hair, streaming
-down her shoulders, as glossy as a crow&rsquo;s wing, and the
-smallest feet, and hands, he ever beheld! and the beautiful fairy
-said to him, &ldquo;Hugh, handsome Hugh, why did you come hither?
-but, since you are here, turn your head aside, till I get out of
-the stream, and then I&rsquo;ll come and talk to
-you.&rdquo;&nbsp; And Hugh did as he was bid, for he was too much
-in love to deny her any thing; and, before he could recover his
-surprise, there was the fairy, close by his side, in the dress of
-a neat country lass.&nbsp; And her snowy feet, and her raven
-locks, red lips, and sparkling eyes, made Hugh&rsquo;s heart
-knock at his ribs, like a smith&rsquo;s hammer on the
-anvil.&nbsp; So what does he do, but drop down upon his knees,
-and swore he was dying for love of the angel.&nbsp;
-&ldquo;I&rsquo;m no angel at all,&rdquo; says she, &ldquo;but a
-foolish body of a fairy, that has fallen in love with handsome
-Hugh, and, if you&rsquo;ll consent to my wishes in one respect,
-I&rsquo;ll be a fond wife to you all the days of your
-life.&rdquo;&nbsp; Hugh was delighted to hear her talk, and he
-promised to do every thing she wished.&nbsp; &ldquo;All I
-desire,&rdquo; said she, &ldquo;is that you will permit me to
-leave you every night at twelve o&rsquo;clock for one hour, and
-never attempt to follow me, or ask where I have been.&nbsp; But,
-if you follow me, you will never see me again, and you will only
-<a name="page168"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 168</span>have to
-thank your own folly and rashness for it.&rdquo;&nbsp; Hugh
-promised faithfully, and the fairy provided him with money enough
-to buy a neat little cottage on the hill yonder, and to stock it
-with a cow, pigs, and poultry.&nbsp; He likewise bought ten acres
-of land, and every body wondered how Hugh Evans became so rich on
-a sudden, but they supposed it was his wife&rsquo;s fortune,
-though they never could find out who she was.&nbsp; For many
-years they lived together, and she bore him two girls, both
-resembling the mother, and their comeliness was the talk of the
-country.&nbsp; Marriage had no power to destroy the beauty of the
-fairy&rsquo;s form or face, for eternal youth and loveliness were
-part of her portion.</p>
-<p>But Hugh got jealous of a neighbour, whom he used to invite to
-his house in the winter evenings, and he fancied that his wife
-paid him more attention than was necessary.&nbsp; Until that
-time, he never cared about her absence at midnight but the
-&ldquo;green eyed monster;&rdquo; whispered to him that she had
-other than honest motives, for absenting herself from home at
-that late hour.&nbsp; And one night, when his neighbour, Davie
-Jones, happened to be more animated than usual with the good
-woman his hostess, who was always desirous of making Hugh&rsquo;s
-friends welcome, he gave her a kiss at parting <a
-name="page169"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 169</span>that went
-to the heart of poor Hugh; and he determined to look after her
-that night when she left his bed, to discover if his suspicions
-were well founded.&nbsp; Accordingly, pretending to sleep, he
-watched his wife when she rose up.&nbsp; The first thing she did
-was to go to her children, whom she kissed, and by the light of
-the moon, which shone brightly through the casement, he saw her
-suddenly (without the aid of toilet labour) arrayed in a gossamer
-robe of rose coloured pink, through which her beautiful skin was
-dimly perceptible, and her exquisite form fully displayed to his
-astonished eyes; the right arm and breast were bare, while the
-drapery was secured upon the left shoulder, and at the waist with
-clasps of costly gems.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Her black luxuriant ringlets, contrasted with her snowy
-neck, her dark eyes flashing with delight, and her red pouting
-lips,&rdquo; said poor Hugh, &ldquo;made me motionless with
-admiration, which was increased by seeing her leap, through the
-open casement!&nbsp; Terrified lest she should be dashed to
-pieces by the fall&mdash;filled with fury at her being thus
-decked out to meet her paramour, with desperate eagerness I
-darted out of the window in pursuit.&nbsp; The height was
-considerable.&nbsp; I caught a glimpse in my descent, of her
-fairy form as she reached the summit <a name="page170"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 170</span>of the hill, and then all sense
-forsook me.&nbsp; When restored to consciousness, I found myself
-stretched upon my bed; both my legs broken by the fall, and my
-head sorely bruised.&nbsp; Upon asking for Lleucu, my wife, I was
-told she had never been seen since I beheld her.&nbsp; My friend
-Davie was attending me affectionately, bathing my temples with
-cold lotions; and my heart smote me for my suspicions.&nbsp;
-Night came, and, as the hour approached when Lleucu departed, I
-became restless and feverish, when a voice, which I knew to be
-Lleucu&rsquo;s, entered my chamber; it sang as follows:</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Farewell Hugh, handsome Hugh,<br />
-Don&rsquo;t forget thy poor Lleucu!<br />
-O&rsquo;er thy limbs I spread a charm,<br />
-And to-morrow, free from harm,<br />
-To thine honest labour hie,<br />
-To support our progeny.<br />
-Oh, protect their tender years,<br />
-Bless my hopes and soothe my fears!<br />
-Farewell, Hugh, handsome Hugh,<br />
-Don&rsquo;t forget thy poor Lleucu!&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;I would have given my life to have seen her
-again,&rdquo; continued Hugh; &ldquo;but I lost her for
-ever.&nbsp; The next morning, faithful to her promise, I was
-indeed perfectly free from pain; my limbs were as strong as at
-the moment when I <a name="page171"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-171</span>sprang from the window; but my heart was
-broken.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;May be, sir, you&rsquo;d like to buy a pair of
-stockings or mittens,&rdquo; said the old man, without pausing to
-notice the effect his tale had upon me, and pulling the articles
-out of his coat pocket as he spoke.&nbsp; I could not resist the
-appeal, and, giving him the price he demanded, I pursued my
-journey towards Dolgelly.&nbsp; Nearly the whole of this lovely
-valley is the property of Sir Robert Vaughan.</p>
-<p>I was meditating upon the romantic tale of the old man, when
-suddenly a turn in the road and an opening in the dell revealed
-to my delighted eyes the celebrated mountain called Cader
-Idris.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p171.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Cader Idris, from the Bala Road"
-title=
-"Cader Idris, from the Bala Road"
- src="images/p171.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<h3>CADER IDRIS,</h3>
-<p>the loftiest mountain in Merionethshire, and the second in
-North Wales, is said to be 950 yards in perpendicular height from
-Dolgelly Green.&nbsp; Cader Idris literally means
-&ldquo;Idris&rsquo;s chair,&rdquo; where he is supposed to have
-studied astrology; and Idris is a name attributed to Enoch, the
-founder of astronomy.&nbsp; Mr. Edward Jones, to whom the public
-are indebted for his learned and ingenious work, entitled
-&ldquo;The Bardic Museum,&rdquo; observes that &ldquo;C&aelig;r
-<a name="page172"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 172</span>Idris
-implies the city of the learned:&rdquo; and Mr. Rowland, in his
-&ldquo;Mona Antiqua,&rdquo; mentions a place in Anglesea called
-C&aelig;r Idris, also B&ocirc;d Idris, or &ldquo;Idris&rsquo;s
-abode or mansion,&rdquo; in Yale, Denbighshire, which still
-retains the name, as well as that of Ll&ecirc;ch Idris, or
-&ldquo;the shelter of Idris,&rdquo; a farm so called, at
-Trawsoynydd in Merionethshire, which also may imply the grave of
-Idris.&nbsp; Idris is supposed to have flourished in the third or
-fourth century, and his genealogy from an old manuscript, runs
-thus:&mdash;&ldquo;Idris Gawr ab Gwyddno, ab Tibion, ab Cunedda
-Wledig.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Snowdon and Cader Idris were formerly supposed to be the
-Parnassian hills of Wales, and none but good bards could claim so
-elevated a seat.</p>
-<p>Idris, the champion or bard, invented the harp; or, if the
-Gomerian Britons brought that instrument into the country when
-they first inhabited the island, it seems to have been lost and
-forgotten; for Idris is said to have invented something similar;
-but it is probable he only made some improvement on the ancient
-harp, or perhaps his superior skill in performing on it might
-have gained him that reputation.&nbsp; From all that can be
-gathered from tradition, he was a learned man, an astrologer, and
-a bard; and it <a name="page173"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-173</span>is likely that the summit of this mountain was chosen
-by him, to examine from thence the movements of the heavenly
-bodies, to write his inspired verses, or to frame laws for the
-government and benefit of his country.</p>
-<p>The walk from this spot to Dolgelly is exceedingly beautiful;
-and as the tourist approaches the town before crossing the bridge
-which is flung over the river Mawddach, a sign of some importance
-attracts his attention upon the right: it runs thus:</p>
-<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">R. PUGH,<br />
-Guide General<br />
-To the Waterfalls, Cader Idris,<br />
-And all the curious scenery in<br />
-The vicinity of Dolgelly.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">N.B.&nbsp; Licenced to let saddled
-horses.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<h3>DOLGELLY,</h3>
-<p>or Dolgellen, the Dale of the Hazel, is the principal market
-town in Merionethshire, and the assizes are held here,
-alternately with Bala.&nbsp; The town hall, the most important
-building, is a neat stone edifice, erected in the year 1825, and
-cost &pound;3000.&nbsp; It is built near the banks of the river
-Wnion, (pronounced Oonion) and the <a name="page174"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 174</span>court room is fitted up with every
-necessary accommodation for the officers of justice.&nbsp; In the
-hall is a very fine portrait of Sir R. W. Vaughan, Bart., painted
-by Sir M. A. Shee, F.R.A.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p174b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Parliament House of Owen Glyndwr"
-title=
-"Parliament House of Owen Glyndwr"
- src="images/p174s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Part of an old building, called &ldquo;Cwrt Pl&acirc;s yn-y
-Dr&ecirc;v,&rdquo; or the Town-hall Court is still remaining,
-amongst a range of wretched hovels, at the back of the post
-office, in which a parliament was held by Owen Glyndwr.&nbsp; The
-county jail at the outskirts of the town is of a semicircular
-form, built of stone, and was erected in 1811, at an expense of
-&pound;5000.</p>
-<p>St. Mary&rsquo;s Church is a neat limestone edifice, of
-Grecian architecture, with a handsome tower, and an expansive
-nave.&nbsp; In it is an ancient monument of an armed knight, who
-is represented in a suit of mail, helmet, a neck guard, a sword
-in his hand, and a dog at his feet; a lion passant gardant is on
-his shield, upon which is inscribed: &ldquo;Hic jacet Mauric
-Filius Ynyr Vychan.&rdquo;&nbsp; There is a modern one lately
-erected to the memory of Baron Richards.</p>
-<p>The town is celebrated for a manufacture of coarse woollen
-cloths and flannels, called webs.&nbsp; The old town hall is used
-for various purposes; English church service is performed there
-every other Sunday; it is also used as a national <a
-name="page175"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 175</span>school, and
-children are there taught to sing the church psalms.&nbsp; It is
-likewise known as the theatre, and a Mr. Glover (son of Mrs.
-Glover, of the London theatres) is the manager.&nbsp; It is kept
-open sometimes for two months successively; admittance to boxes
-2<i>s</i>, pit 1<i>s</i>.</p>
-<p>Those fond of fine scenery should ascend the mountain from the
-north side of the vale, to obtain the best view of the town, as
-it lies sheltered at the foot of the majestic Cader Idris, which
-rears its lofty shoulders in the clouds.</p>
-<p>Clustering woods adorn the opposite range of mountains, as
-they slope in irregular masses westward to the ocean; and in the
-midst may be distinguished the residences of Mr. Reveley and
-Captain Anwyl.</p>
-<p>The river beautifully meandering through the green meadows,
-the solemn quietude that prevails around, disturbed only by the
-sound of the church clock, marking the progress of the fleeting
-hours with lengthened tone, which, like the music of another
-world, sweeps through the enchanting vale, combine to render this
-a place where those not wedded to routs, masquerades, gambling
-and licentiousness, might wish to live and die.</p>
-<p>Dolgelly contains several good inns, of which the most
-frequented are the Golden lion, the <a name="page176"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 176</span>Angel and the Ship.&nbsp;
-Comfortable lodgings may likewise be obtained, at a cheap rate,
-by those who desire to remain in the neighbourhood for the
-purpose of making excursions to the falls, Kymmer Abbey, and
-Nannau Park, the fishing stations, Dol y Gamedd on the Avon, Llyn
-Cregenan, Llyn Gador, Llyn Geirw, Tal y llyn, &amp;c. <a
-name="citation176"></a><a href="#footnote176"
-class="citation">[176]</a></p>
-<h3>DOLUWCHEOGRYD,</h3>
-<p>the residence of Mr. Roland Williams, is delightfully situated
-on the side of a mountain rising from this vale.&nbsp; I have
-read of a man who made search through the world for true
-hospitality, and returned to his cell without finding it.&nbsp;
-It is certain that he never entered the abode of Mr. R. Williams,
-which is the habitation of unaffected kindness, unpresuming
-intelligence, and unostentatious hospitality&mdash;the retreat of
-peace, love and friendship, where the stranger is received with
-warmth and cordiality, his wants anxiously anticipated and
-administered to, where the cheerful glass is rendered doubly
-valuable by the accompaniment of a hearty welcome, and where the
-administering hands of the fair inmates render every species of
-generosity doubly dear to the favoured individual <a
-name="page177"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 177</span>who is
-admitted into that happy sanctuary.&nbsp; The only feeling of
-regret I experienced while at Doluwcheogryd was occasioned by the
-necessity of leaving it so soon.</p>
-<p>The tourist should not quit Dolgelly without visiting the
-waterfalls, which, after heavy rains, are very magnificent.&nbsp;
-As I was still suffering from the severe sprain, I was
-accommodated by Mr. Williams, who also obliged me with his
-company, with a very fine horse to carry me to the falls; and
-bold and sure-footed, he performed his duty nobly, in spite of
-crags, cliffs, hills and hollows.</p>
-<p>Passing the house of Miss Madock, daughter of the late William
-Alexander Madock, Esq., we came to the cataract.</p>
-<h3>THE RHAIADR DU</h3>
-<p>is situated in the grounds belonging to this lady, called
-D&ocirc;l melynllyn.&nbsp; Here the torrent leaps from a height
-of sixty feet over precipitous rocks, and plunges with a violence
-that seems to shake the crags and trees around, into a deep pool,
-from which it proceeds adown the dingle, over black and broken
-fragments, to the river Mawddach.&nbsp; A footpath conducts the
-tourist to the bottom of the falls, from which, stepping upon
-some loose stones in the middle of the <a
-name="page178"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 178</span>stream, he
-will obtain the best view of the cataract.&nbsp; A walk of about
-three miles brings him to the falls of the Mawddach and Pistyll y
-Cain, returning from which, he may visit Y Vanner, or Kymmer
-Abbey, founded in 1198, by Meredith and Griffith, lords of
-Merioneth, dedicated to St. Mary, and inhabited by monks of the
-Cistertian order.&nbsp; It is not now, however, worthy of the
-tourist&rsquo;s attention.&nbsp; But Nannau Park, the seat of Sir
-Robert William Vaughan, will afford much pleasure to those who
-visit it.&nbsp; The grounds are thickly wooded, and the mansion
-is supposed to occupy the highest ground of any residence in
-Britain.&nbsp; The approach to it is five miles in length; it
-stands 702 feet above the level of the sea; and the park is
-celebrated for its venison.&nbsp; Previously to the year 1814,
-there stood an oak in this park which bore a name terrible to the
-ears of the peasantry: it was called</p>
-<h3>DERWEN CEUBREN YR ELLYLL,</h3>
-<p>which translated, means, &ldquo;the hollow oak, the haunt of
-demons.&rdquo;&nbsp; In this oak, it is said Owen Glyndwr immured
-the body of Howell Sele, the proprietor of this estate, who,
-while they were walking together, treacherously shot an arrow at
-the breast of Glyndwr, who, however, having <a
-name="page179"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 179</span>armour
-beneath his doublet, fortunately received no hurt.&nbsp; The
-cause of this treachery is said to have been the indignation
-expressed by Owen at his kinsman&rsquo;s refusal to join his
-cause to redress his country&rsquo;s wrongs.&nbsp; Glyndwr forced
-his body into the hollow of this oak, most likely after having
-slain him, where, forty years after this event, a skeleton was
-discovered.&nbsp; The chieftain, after laying waste the mansion
-and domain of Sele, hastened to join his friends.&nbsp; Sir W.
-Scott has written a very beautiful poem upon this legend, which
-will be found in the fifth note to his sixth canto of Marmion,
-and is called the &ldquo;spirit&rsquo;s blasted
-tree.&rdquo;&nbsp; In 1813, this monarch of the wood fell to the
-ground.</p>
-<p>The country from Dolgelly to the mouth of the river is well
-worth a journey of three hundred miles to visit, even though
-there were no other objects worthy of notice in North Wales, and
-will amply compensate the most eager researcher after the sublime
-and beautiful.</p>
-<p>At a turn of the coach road from a place called Te-gwyn, a
-splendid view of Cader Idris is obtained, particularly in the
-evening, when the mists arise from the numerous lakes in the
-vicinity, like volumes of smoke from a domain of fire, curling in
-fantastic forms around the mountain&rsquo;s waist, leaving its
-summit stern and <a name="page180"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-180</span>clear in an unclouded sky&mdash;like a proud giant
-surveying with disdain the dwarfish host of which he is the
-leader.</p>
-<blockquote><p>Thou mighty Cader, whose commanding head<br />
-Is alway canopied with winter&rsquo;s snow,<br />
-Whose form is rent in many a chasm dread,<br />
-Adown whose sides the dashing torrents flow,<br />
-And in primeval majesty still throw<br />
-Their flakes of foam into the gulph below!<br />
-Mine eyes dwell on thy terrors, and my heart<br />
-Expands and trembles with a nameless glow!<br />
-Wildest of all the mountain kind thou art,<br />
-The rampart that protects old Cambria&rsquo;s heart.</p>
-<p>Land of the free! amid thy giant hills,<br />
-Whose regal heads appear to prop the skies,<br />
-Oh what a thrilling awe my bosom fills<br />
-While gazing on thy dark sublimities!<br />
-Mountains on mountains, peaks on peaks arise,<br />
-Like tents belonging to some Titan race,<br />
-Who choosing highest ground, nighest the God,<br />
-Again defy the thunderer, face to face,<br />
-From heights more vast than Alpine foot e&rsquo;er trod,<br />
-And undismayed await his dreadful nod.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Another noble view attracts attention, at a place called Glan
-Mawddach&mdash;the broad arm of the sea, stretching for miles
-between the rugged mountains, which, shrouded in veils of silvery
-mist, fling their dark shadows into the depths of the
-water.&nbsp; Proceeding onwards, the <a name="page181"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 181</span>seat of the late A. Wynne, Esq.,
-called Athog, now the residence of Mr. Fowden, becomes
-conspicuous upon the south side of the mouth of the Mawddach, and
-beyond the extremity of the Bay Celylin point, and the church of
-which the Rev. J. Parry is rector.&nbsp; The bishop has the power
-of appointing a curate; but Mr. Parry retains the tithes to
-himself.&nbsp; Arriving at</p>
-<h3>BARMOUTH,</h3>
-<p>the coach stopped at the Cors-y-gedol arms; but I proceeded to
-the Commercial inn, where there is very good accommodation, and a
-good look-out seaward.&nbsp; A warm bath of sea water refreshed
-me; and by the star light I strolled upon the sands, which are
-very hard and pleasant to walk upon, while my repast was
-preparing at the inn.&nbsp; The night was calm and serene, and my
-mind naturally adapted itself to the surrounding scene.&nbsp;
-&ldquo;The brave o&rsquo;erhanging firmament&mdash;the majestical
-roof fretted with golden fire,&rdquo; appeared to me far from
-being &ldquo;a foul and pestilent congregation of
-vapours.&rdquo;&nbsp; My soul took wing, and bounded from star to
-star, leaping the realms of space, and plunging into infinity,
-till wearied with its immeasurable flight, it resought its
-earthly tenement, and my <a name="page182"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 182</span>body, which it left immoveable, as
-if transformed to marble, resumed its functions.&nbsp; The low
-moan of the ocean swam on my ear, like heavenly music.&nbsp; A
-light breeze brought with it delicious freshness; and, as I
-looked towards the land, all seemed as quiet as the abode of
-peace.&nbsp; The lights from the houses had a pleasing effect, as
-they streamed through the windows, row above row, under and upon
-the side of the overhanging cliffs.</p>
-<p>I returned to &ldquo;mine inn,&rdquo; and my meal being
-despatched, retired to bed.</p>
-<h2><a name="page183"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-183</span>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
-<p class="gutsumm">Description of Barmouth&mdash;Sketch of the
-Town&mdash;The Estuary&mdash;Friar&rsquo;s Island&mdash;Dinas
-Gortin&mdash;Earl of Richmond&mdash;Anecdote of the men of
-Ardudwy, and the men of Denbighshire&mdash;Mostyn Hall&mdash;A
-pic-nic party&mdash;Llyn Cwm Bychan&mdash;Carreg y
-Saeth&mdash;The Witch of Cwm Bychan&mdash;Legendary
-Tale&mdash;Bwlch Tyddiad&mdash;A mountain ride and a regretful
-farewell.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The mountayne men live longer many a
-yeare<br />
-Then those in vale, in plaine, or marrish soyle;<br />
-A lustie hart, a cleene complexion cleere,<br />
-They have on hill that for hard living toyle;<br />
-With ewe and lambe, with goats and kinds they play,<br />
-In greatest toyles to rub out wearie day;<br />
-And when to house and home good fellowes draw<br />
-The lads can laugh at turning of a strawe.&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: right">CHURCHYARD.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p><span class="smcap">Barmouth</span>, or Aber-Maw, derives its
-name from being situated at the embouchure of the river Maw or
-Mawddach, which at the entrance is obstructed <a
-name="page184"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 184</span>by a
-bar.&nbsp; The old town, viewed from the sea, resembles a
-fortress of some strength, hanging immediately over the
-sands.&nbsp; In most cases a lofty situation is an advantage, but
-here it is the reverse; for so steep is the side of the cliff on
-which it stands, that the inhabitants of the upper regions are
-completely smoke-dried from the chimneys of all the dwellings
-beneath.</p>
-<p>The new town stands at the base of the rock, and but for some
-mounds of sand, that appear likely to grow into mountains by the
-influence of the winds and waves, would inevitably be washed away
-by the spring tides.&nbsp; Some of the fishermen&rsquo;s
-habitations on the beach are at times buried in the drifting
-sands; and, after a strong wind from the seaward, the inhabitants
-generally labour hard to clear the obstruction from their
-doors.</p>
-<p>Barmouth had few visitors during my stay, and from the report
-of those I met with, is greatly decreasing in popularity, which
-says but little in favour of the lovers of fine scenery.&nbsp;
-When the tide is at full, the panorama around the estuary cannot
-be surpassed in beauty.&nbsp; The majestic river winds amongst
-rocks, clad with purple heather, or projecting in barren
-grandeur, that lift their jagged summits tier over tier, and peak
-overtopping peak, while still tremendous, towering <a
-name="page185"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 185</span>over all,
-the lofty Idris looms in the back ground.&nbsp; Green hills and
-woody promontories, forests that stretch into the dark recesses
-of the mountains, villas and copsewood glens, give an endless
-variety to the romantic scene.</p>
-<p>The town contains about 2,000 inhabitants, and there is a
-manufactory of flannels and woollen stockings.</p>
-<p>At noon, as I was basking upon the sands, or Friar&rsquo;s
-island, which is situated at the mouth of the river, I had the
-pleasure to see my new acquaintance and friend gallop into the
-town, and old Charon having ferried me from the island to the
-main land once more, I hastened to welcome him, as fast as my
-damaged limb would suffer me.&nbsp; He proposed driving me to
-Mostyn Hall, the seat of the Hon. E. M. L. Mostyn; which being
-agreed to, I ordered dinner to be ready at our return, and we
-started.&nbsp; The drive upon the Harlech road is bleak; upon the
-right, the hills are barren; and seaward, beneath the road, is an
-extensive flat, consisting chiefly of bog land and far from
-interesting.&nbsp; About a mile and a half from the town, stands
-the church of Llan Aber, upon the extreme verge of a cliff which
-overlooks the ocean.&nbsp; The Carnaervonshire mountains have a
-fine effect stretching into the sea; of which the Rivals, <a
-name="page186"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 186</span>with their
-lofty peaks, are noble objects in the distance.&nbsp; Following
-the chain, the eye rests for a moment upon Garn Bodean, and in
-the flat between it and Garn Madryn is the town of
-Pwllhely.&nbsp; The chain is resumed at Rhew mountain, and
-terminates at Aberdarron point, three leagues from which is
-Bardsey Island, a conspicuous and interesting object; for there
-dwelt the bards of old, amongst whom were numbered the fathers of
-science, the national interpreters, musicians, and legislators,
-priests, and princes of Cambria.&nbsp; With their oratory they
-soothed the savage ignorance of mankind into civilization and
-knowledge, and polished their minds with the powerful aid of
-music and poetry.&nbsp; After the dreadful slaughter of the monks
-of Bangor, those who survived took shelter upon this
-island.&nbsp; A few ruined walls alone remain of the ancient
-abbey; and the inhabitants, who do not exceed one hundred
-persons, support themselves chiefly by fishing.</p>
-<p>About three miles from Barmouth, upon the summit of the
-mountain called Dinas Gortin, are the remains of a military
-encampment, and near to the town there stood a tower, where it is
-said the Earl of Richmond used to conceal himself, when he
-visited his secret allies in this part of the country.</p>
-<p><a name="page187"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 187</span>Near
-the military station, are the tombs of the celebrated men of
-Ardudwy; who, in imitation of the Roman robbers, made an
-excursion into Denbighshire, and overcoming the men, forcibly
-tore the women from their families, and returned in triumph with
-them to their own country.</p>
-<p>But the men of Denbighshire, rallying, pursued the spoilers,
-and overtaking them in the pass of Drws ardydwy, routed them with
-great slaughter.&nbsp; But the infatuated women had by this time
-conceived so extraordinary a passion for their violators, that
-rather than survive their loss, or perhaps more probably, to
-escape the fury of their former husbands, they drowned themselves
-in a lake, which is called the pool of Morwynion.</p>
-<p>About two miles further, a road up a steep ascent, conducted
-us to a fine avenue of trees, through which we passed, and at the
-termination of it came to a handsome gateway, called Pat Mawr,
-which admitted us into the mansion of Cors y gedol, which has
-nothing in it to interest the tourist.&nbsp; The interior of the
-building is incommodious and inelegant.&nbsp; The drawing-room
-contains a few wretched portraits and high-backed chairs; and the
-rest of the apartments are meanly furnished.&nbsp; The only
-object of interest <a name="page188"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-188</span>is a window, out of which the Earl of Richmond,
-afterwards Henry VII, is said to have leaped, when a party of
-Richard III&rsquo;s soldiers attempted to apprehend him; it is
-called the king&rsquo;s window.</p>
-<p>We returned to Barmouth by the sea shore, and, after a most
-delightful drive upon Neptune&rsquo;s boundaries, arrived at the
-inn, where the evening was passed in conviviality, tempered with
-prudence, and sweetened by social and interesting
-conversation.&nbsp; As I had determined upon proceeding to
-Harlech the following day, my companion was resolved to make the
-journey as agreeable as possible, and requesting me to forward my
-knap-sack &amp;c., by the coach, informed me that he would be
-ready to accompany me in the morning.&nbsp; Requesting him,
-therefore, to be early at breakfast, we parted for the night.</p>
-<p>After despatching a hasty meal next morning, the word was
-given &ldquo;to horse and away.&rdquo;&nbsp; My old favourite who
-bore me so gallantly to the black cataract, was again resigned to
-my care, and I to his, gentle as a lamb, proud as a war horse and
-agile as an antelope.&nbsp; I felt like an Arab, on his steed,
-and I thought I could defy the winds to overtake me.&nbsp; We
-proceeded once more to Mostyn Hall, which was the appointed spot
-of rendezvous for a pic-nic party.&nbsp; Here I <a
-name="page189"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 189</span>had the
-happiness of meeting some of the choicest flowers of the Welsh
-Highlands.&nbsp; Youth, beauty, freedom, and innocence, beamed
-from the laughing eyes and unsullied cheeks of our fair
-companions.&nbsp; The &ldquo;how d&rsquo;ye do&rsquo;s?&rdquo;
-&ldquo;glad to see you,&rdquo; &ldquo;fine morning,&rdquo;
-&amp;c. &amp;c., being ended, we moved forward in a formidable
-cavalcade.&nbsp; Mirth, wit and pleasure played on the lips and
-sparkled in the eyes of the whole party; and the animals that
-bore us seemed to partake of the general feeling, by pricking up
-their glossy ears, and bounding over the rugged road with more
-spirit than prudence.&nbsp; Much mirth was occasioned by the
-opening of gates, and crossing of brooks.&nbsp; At length, the
-party plunged into a beautiful wood.&nbsp; I paused upon an
-eminence, to mark the effect as they descended; it was
-picturesque in the extreme, as at intervals, through the
-openings, I caught a partial glimpse of the troop, pursuing their
-cheerful way down the steep path.&nbsp; Pleased with the sight, I
-passed the party at a gallop, and arriving at the foot of the
-hill, remained upon a bridge, close by the woodman&rsquo;s
-cottage, which crosses a mountain stream, watching their
-approach.</p>
-<p>It was delightful to see them advancing one by one through the
-thick foliage which hung on <a name="page190"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 190</span>either side of the path, and arching
-over their heads.&nbsp; On arriving at the foot of the descent,
-the party drew up, and, had an artist been among us, I am
-confident he would have produced a picture, which, even on the
-lifeless canvass, would have delighted the connoisseurs of
-Somerset House.</p>
-<p>The variety of costume, the colour of the horses, the general
-sensation of delight which lighted up the features of the gay
-group; the picturesque cottage and bridge, the broad rushing
-stream, the waving woods, with now and then a glimpse of the
-sterile mountains, peeping above the beautiful fertility, formed
-a landscape which Salvator Rosa himself would have been delighted
-to delineate.</p>
-<p>Penetrating through a woody maze, a glen upon our right, and
-huge wild masses of rock towering above our heads, we passed
-Crafnant; a house situated in the deep shade of the lonely wood,
-the residence of Mr. Owen, a surgeon; who, from our not having
-for a long range of country encountered a civilized residence,
-barring the woodman&rsquo;s cottage, I felt half inclined to
-think was only attendant on the quadrupeds of the mountain.&nbsp;
-The rocks now assumed a wild and threatening aspect upon our
-left, as we emerged into a more open track, and entered <a
-name="page191"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 191</span>upon the
-domain of Dolwreiddiog, where Mr. Mawhans has a snug shooting
-box, a little beyond which, commences perhaps the wildest scenery
-in North Wales.&nbsp; Descending by a rocky path, we came to</p>
-<h3>LLYN Y CWM BYCHAM,</h3>
-<p>or, the lake of the little hollow, on the opposite margin of
-which, the wild and dismal Carrey-y-Saeth, the rock of the arrow,
-rears its black head in fearful grandeur.&nbsp; Cwm Bychan, is a
-grassy dell, surrounded on all sides by the most frightful
-sterility; which while we gazed with wonder on the sublimity of
-the scene, made us shudder at the utter desolation it
-presented.&nbsp; A poor cottage stands on the farther end of the
-valley, from which, having obtained a plentiful supply of milk,
-we dismounted, and, fastening our steeds to the gates, we seated
-ourselves under the shade of two trees, upon the inviting grass,
-which, like the smiles of the world, proved but too treacherous;
-many a scream and laugh announcing that the boggy soil had paid
-no respect to the garments of either sex.&nbsp; Stones were
-therefore procured, and, having ranged them in a magic circle,
-the whole party seated themselves to partake of the good cheer,
-which <a name="page192"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 192</span>a
-sturdy Welshman had borne upon his shoulders, and who now
-advanced into the middle of the ring.&nbsp; Knives and forks
-began to play with astonishing celerity.&nbsp; Fowls, ham,
-tongue, &amp;c. &amp;c., vanished as if by enchantment; and mirth
-and good humour added zest to the repast.</p>
-<p>In this hollow there dwelt a witch called Janet, and a story
-is told, which, as its wildness is well adapted to the scenery, I
-will endeavour to relate.&nbsp; The circumstances are said to
-have been confessed by old Janet, when under the last
-torture.</p>
-<h3>THE WITCH OF CWM BYCHAN.</h3>
-<p>In the year 1647, when the Parliamentary forces were besieging
-the castle of Harlech, there happened to be a sturdy trooper,
-named Jacob Strong-ith-arm, amongst them, a raw-boned man, of
-about forty years of age, who had a most sanctimonious visage,
-and a strong nasal twang, which the hypocrites he commanded
-generally affected as the acceptable tone in which the Lord
-delighted.&nbsp; He had in his youth been a butcher&rsquo;s boy;
-but sanctity and the cutting the throats of the royalists had
-elevated him to the rank of captain in Oliver&rsquo;s army.&nbsp;
-This man being stationed under General Mytton, during the siege
-of Harlech Castle, fancied <a name="page193"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 193</span>himself in love with Mary Carrol,
-the daughter of a farmer in the neighbourhood, who was shrewdly
-suspected of being a favourer of the besieged party.&nbsp; This,
-however, Jacob did not choose to notice; and, whenever an assault
-upon the castle was repulsed by the royalists, he returned to lay
-siege to the heart of Mary Carrol, who had an utter abhorrence to
-all fanatics and sanctified faces.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Verily, Mrs. Mary Carrol,&rdquo; he would say, &ldquo;I
-love thee!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;And by the honour of a cavalier,&rdquo; replied the
-maiden, &ldquo;I love thee not, Jacob;&rdquo; for she concealed
-not her attachment to the royal party, although her father
-constantly cautioned her to do so.</p>
-<p>Long and vainly did Jacob endeavour to obtain the young
-girl&rsquo;s affections.&nbsp; At length, he bethought himself of
-Janet, the witch of Cwm Bychan, whose fame was spread for many a
-mile the country round; and one evening in March a man muffled in
-a horseman&rsquo;s cloak was seen stumbling over the broken rocks
-and patches of broom and furze that impeded his way to the
-cottage where she lived.&nbsp; The moon was obscured by the
-density of the atmosphere, and small dark remnants of clouds
-swept midway through the valley, portending heavy rain and <a
-name="page194"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-194</span>tempest.&nbsp; Often did he kneel and lift his
-trembling hands, as if in prayer, as he approached the cottage,
-and many times did he turn round affrighted, believing he heard a
-brownie brush behind him.&nbsp; At length, he saw a small white
-dog running towards him, wagging its tail, and looking very glad
-to see him.&nbsp; Notwithstanding all these tokens of welcome,
-the teeth of Jacob chattered in his head, as he followed his
-canine conductor, and his heart sank within him.</p>
-<p>When he came to the door, it seemed to fly open without the
-aid of hands, and, in the middle of the hut, over a turf fire,
-sat Janet the witch.&nbsp; &ldquo;Come in!&rdquo; said she, and
-repeated these doggerel lines:</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Thou lovest a young and a pretty bird,<br
-/>
-And little she cares for thee;<br />
-But Mary shall carol, and love thee well,<br />
-If thou&rsquo;lt give gold to me.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;By the devil and all his imps, Janet,&rdquo; said
-Jacob, mustering up all the courage he could to support his
-profanity, &ldquo;I&rsquo;ll give thee a hundred good pounds if
-thou wilt make her love me.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;It&rsquo;s a bargain!&rdquo; quoth Janet, and she
-griped his hand till he thought he felt all the <a
-name="page195"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 195</span>blood in
-his body running out at his fingers ends, and then she gave him
-this warning:</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;When the change is wrought, shouldst thou
-in aught<br />
-&rsquo;Gainst thy free oath rebel,<br />
-Soon shall, in dole, Harlech&rsquo;s bell toll<br />
-A sinner&rsquo;s parting knell!&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;Go thou to Mary&rsquo;s cottage to-morrow morning by
-the ninth hour; thou shalt find her mind altered, and on the
-third morning will I call on thee for the fulfilment of thy
-promise.&nbsp; Away!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>As she spoke, he found himself suddenly whisked away into the
-centre of a furze bush, where, stuck fast, he stood gaping at the
-door of the cottage, which closed against him, as if by
-enchantment, and all was as quiet as before he had entered it,
-save the whistling wind and the driving rain, which the clouds
-now discharged in torrents.</p>
-<p>A festival was to be held that night on the side of Mount
-Atlas, and all witches were desired to attend and join in the
-revelry, at the command of his imperious majesty, Satan himself;
-and, no sooner had Jacob departed, than old Janet began to anoint
-herself, singing her incantations all the while.</p>
-<blockquote><p><a name="page196"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-196</span>&ldquo;To thee, to thee, thou mighty one!<br />
-Whose name is big with fear,<br />
-I pay my adoration deep,<br />
-While I anoint me here;</p>
-<p>And in this ointment I have put<br />
-Mixtures of mighty power,<br />
-To aid my flight, through the night,<br />
-To thee, at trysting hour.</p>
-<p>The Lady Gordon&rsquo;s fav&rsquo;rite child<br />
-I&rsquo;ve roasted for this night,<br />
-And thus its fat upon my lids<br />
-I drop to aid my sight.</p>
-<p>Come dance around, my fav&rsquo;rite imps,<br />
-Robin and Prick-ear come!<br />
-Twice must the ocean wide be crossed<br />
-Ere we again come home.</p>
-<p>With serpents&rsquo; oil I smear my cheeks,<br />
-To smooth my wrinkled skin,<br />
-And outward wear the show of youth,<br />
-Though all is old within.</p>
-<p>With blood of matricide I dye<br />
-My lips to ruby red,<br />
-And with the deep black soot of hell<br />
-The white locks of my head;</p>
-<p>With tints from murdered virgin&rsquo;s face<br />
-I gaily deck my own,<br />
-Till either cheek appears to wear<br />
-A rose flower newly blown;</p>
-<p><a name="page197"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 197</span>Come
-dance around, my favourite imps,<br />
-Robin and Prick-ear come,<br />
-Twice must the ocean wide be crossed,<br />
-Ere we again come home.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Her preparations being completed, she mounted upon the back of
-Robin, and attended by Prick-ear, flew through the air to the
-witches&rsquo; festival.</p>
-<p>The inhabitants of Mauritania, who resided in the vicinity of
-Mount Atlas, were struck with fear and wonder at the flickering
-lights and fitful sounds of numerous instruments that were seen
-and heard upon the mountain&rsquo;s sides.&nbsp; Loud peals of
-laughter and shouts of merriment astonished the peasantry, for
-many miles around!&nbsp; Glad enough was the arch-fiend to see
-old Janet, who was a favourite, and he knew she had done his
-service ably.&nbsp; She knelt down, and did him homage, repeated
-the accursed prayer, and recounted to him the deeds she had
-performed since the last merry meeting,&mdash;at which he smiled,
-and gave her a smack that sounded like the report of a piece of
-ordnance; and back to back, with arms locked together, did they
-whisk it about, to the great delight of the assembly; after
-which, Prick-ear, who had assumed his human shape, led her to the
-feast, and whispered <a name="page198"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 198</span>soft words into his mistress&rsquo;s
-ear; and they kissed and toyed, as did the rest; and in mirth,
-love, and jollity, the night passed rapidly away.&nbsp; But Janet
-forgot not in her mirth, to beg a boon of Satan, which was, that
-he would turn the inclinations of Mary Carrol upon the trooper,
-Jacob Strong-ith-arm, which being granted, the usual ceremony at
-parting was performed, and again crossing the ocean, she arrived
-at Cwm Bychan before the dawn, with her attendant imps.</p>
-<p>With a fluttering heart, Jacob knocked at the door of his
-mistress, on the morning after his adventure with old Janet, and
-could scarcely believe his good fortune, when he saw Mary, with
-smiles of delight, hasten to the door, to welcome him; and he
-inwardly blessed the old witch for having performed her promise
-so faithfully.&nbsp; He spoke of love to Mary, and she heard him
-without a frown; and so impatient was the accepted lover, that
-the third day was appointed for the marriage to take place.&nbsp;
-But Jacob thought no more of the witch who had brought about his
-good fortune.</p>
-<p>The third morning came, and the bells were ringing merrily the
-wedding peal for Mary Carrol and Jacob Strongith-arm, and all
-their friends were seated at breakfast in the bride&rsquo;s
-cottage, <a name="page199"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-199</span>when, as the clock struck nine, three distinct and
-heavy knocks were heard at the door, which being opened, old
-Janet presented herself before the astonished party, for they all
-believed she had evil communication with Satan.</p>
-<p>The bridegroom grew red with shame and passion, and when Janet
-told him she had come for the payment he promised, he vowed, if
-she did not quit the house, he would tie her neck and heels, and
-fling her out of the window.&nbsp; This threat made Janet
-wrathful, and with heavy maledictions that struck terror into the
-hearts of all the company, she turned her back upon them, and
-departed from the house.</p>
-<p>No sooner had she quitted it, than a new wonder
-arose&mdash;the bride flew hastily to her apartment, nor could
-all her friends prevail upon her to quit it.&nbsp; Her former
-dislike to Jacob returned with redoubled violence.&nbsp; She
-refused to become his bride, and kneeling down returned thanks to
-heaven for the fate she had escaped.&nbsp; All was
-confusion.&nbsp; The disappointed bridegroom with dreadful
-threats of vengeance, dashed furiously out of the house, in the
-direction of Cwm Bychan.</p>
-<p>Rage subdued fear in his breast, and the pathless rocks, over
-which he had to scramble, seemed to add fresh fuel to his
-flames.&nbsp; Long <a name="page200"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-200</span>and loudly did he knock at the door of Janet&rsquo;s
-hut, until maddened with delay, he with his foot sent it flying
-from its hinges, and there he saw a figure resembling himself
-modelled in wax, with a needle passed through the body, placed
-before a fire&mdash;and on a sudden Jacob began to sweat with
-fear.&nbsp; All the horrors attached to this well known ceremony
-amongst witches, rushed to memory.&nbsp; He remembered the story
-of King Duncan of Scotland, which he had often read over, with
-pious terror, in the pages of Hollingshed, who was in this way
-tortured by a witch, and, with prayers and ejaculations, he ran
-from his effigy, stumbling and breaking his knees over the rugged
-stones, while thorns and briars tore his quivering flesh, as,
-unconscious of the pain, he scrambled through.&nbsp; At length,
-in horrid plight, breathless and faint, he reached his quarters
-in the town of Harlech, where he was shortly after put to bed in
-extreme agony, both of body and mind.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Weary seven nights, nine times nine,<br />
-Did he dwindle, peak, and pine.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Meanwhile, General Mytton was hotly besieging the castle,
-which was defended, with almost unprecedented bravery, by William
-<a name="page201"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 201</span>Owain,
-the governor, with no more than twenty-eight followers.&nbsp; In
-vain did the clang of arms strike upon the warlike ears of
-Jacob;&mdash;he might have exclaimed, in the language of
-Othello&mdash;</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Farewell the plumed troop, and the big
-war<br />
-Which makes ambition virtue&mdash;oh farewell!&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>But, as he never read such profane authors, he contented
-himself with a pious curse or two every second on the witch who
-had reduced him to such a state of feebleness.&nbsp; He who was
-once foremost in the onset, whose voice would animate his
-soldiers with a religious zeal, and oft reclaim the fortune of
-the fight&mdash;the brawny, fearless Presbyterian lay like a
-puling infant on his bed, wasted and pale, with scarcely breath
-enough to render himself audible to those around him.</p>
-<p>Sorely did Mytton need his aid, his reckless daring in leading
-an assault&mdash;for the stimulating energy of his example was
-electric.</p>
-<p>One night, when he heard the loud shouts of the enemy, and the
-declining voices of his friends, Jacob grasped his sword, and,
-starting from his bed, rushed, or rather staggered, to the
-barbican, which had been scaled by a small body of the <a
-name="page202"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 202</span>parliament
-forces, who surprised the warders at the drawbridge, which
-crossed the fosse upon the inside, when, from the interior a body
-of the royalists rushed with desperate valour, the assailing
-party were forced to retreat by opening the massy gate of the
-barbican, but not without leaving many wounded and dying comrades
-in the deep fosse, into which they had been thrown during the
-struggle on the drawbridge.&nbsp; At this critical moment, when
-disgrace appeared to hang over the banner of his leader, Jacob,
-<i>en chemise</i>, forced his way into the scene of action,
-striking terror to the foe, who took him for an apparition, and
-invigorating the hearts of his friends.&nbsp; The royalists, who
-had advanced, were driven back again in their turn.</p>
-<p>But the hope of victory betrayed the besiegers to their
-ruin.&nbsp; Jacob, determined to take the castle or die, with a
-huge axe was cutting through the drawbridge to deprive his
-followers of all hope of escape, by retreating that way; and the
-battle became furious beneath the double portcullis which crowns
-the principal entrance.&nbsp; The besieged were driven nearly
-into the inner court, when the mighty voice of Owain cried
-aloud&mdash;&ldquo;Let fall the portcullis!&rdquo;&nbsp; So
-promptly was this order obeyed, that the outer and inner grating
-enclosed the besiegers, as in a <a name="page203"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 203</span>cage, and left them entirely at the
-mercy of their conquerors.</p>
-<p>Fortunately for Jacob, his weakness prevented him from
-carrying his purpose into effect, and he retired, covered with
-confusion, to his bed, while his companions whom he was forced to
-leave behind, resigned their arms, through the inner grating, to
-their enemies, and were then committed to the dungeons of the
-fortress.</p>
-<p>On the morning after this defeat, a party of men, who had been
-sent into the mountains to forage for goats, sheep, or provender
-of any kind that might fall in their way, chanced to pass near
-old Janet&rsquo;s dwelling, and they resolved to revenge the
-cruel persecution of their captain, if they could light upon the
-witch, who had occasioned his long sufferings.&nbsp; Accordingly,
-they entered the cottage, where they perceived, before the dying
-embers of a turf fire, the waxen image with which she worked the
-charm, almost wasted away, but still bearing a strong resemblance
-to Jacob Strongith-arm.&nbsp; This they seized, and instantly
-committed to the water, placing, at the same time, some dried
-wood upon the turf, which, with the aid of some gunpowder, was
-ignited.&nbsp; A quantity of dried furze and heather was then
-piled upon it, and, in a <a name="page204"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 204</span>short time, the flames communicated
-with the rafters of every part of the building.</p>
-<p>As they turned from the cottage, one of the party perceived an
-old woman floating upon a plank on the lake, twisting and
-jumping, capering and splashing, in a manner that made his hair
-stand on end.&nbsp; It was old Janet herself, whose imps had
-deserted her, or he would never have been able to detect her at
-her pastime.&nbsp; There she floated, twirling about, sometimes
-on one leg, and then upon the other, till all of them being
-convinced it was the witch, they resolved to seize her, and
-convey her to the General.</p>
-<p>Three of them, named John Brown, James Haddock, and Joseph
-Stilt, being the most courageous of the party, volunteered to
-capture her, though the devil himself stood at her elbow, while
-she, not knowing that her imp, Robin, whose power made her
-invisible to mortal eyes, had quitted her, kept dancing on,
-without dreaming of any harm that could befall her from the
-approach of mortals, although the plank upon which she stood
-nearly touched the border of the pool.&nbsp; Suddenly, Joseph
-Stilt, who was the foremost, roared out&mdash;&ldquo;The witch!
-the witch!&mdash;we have her!&rdquo;&nbsp; Janet then, for the
-first time, felt afraid; but she still had some <a
-name="page205"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 205</span>power left,
-and Joseph Stilt, as he made a spring to come up with her, stuck
-fast in a quagmire as deep as his chin, close to the edge of the
-lake, where he remained storming, without the power to extricate
-himself.&nbsp; James Haddock, who leaped over his head, sank to
-the bottom, and narrowly escaped drowning.&nbsp; But John Brown,
-who always carried a verse of scripture in front of his hat,
-calling on the Virgin for support, alighted on the plank by the
-witch&rsquo;s side, and, seizing her by the hair, ferried her to
-a safe landing place, when his comrades, James Haddock, and
-Joseph Stilt, having been assisted, by their fellows, out of
-jeopardy, assisted him to convey her to Harlech, where they were
-told that the dreadful exudations of Jacob had ceased, and, upon
-comparing their accounts, they found that his recovery commenced
-at the very moment when they flung his waxen effigy into the
-water, and set fire to the witch&rsquo;s hut.</p>
-<p>When Janet was brought before the General and Jacob
-Strongith-arm, she laughed to see his once stout frame dwindled
-as it was, and her laugh frightened them all; so they tied her to
-a stake, and then began to question her; but she disdained to
-make any reply.&nbsp; They then tried the torture of the
-thumb-screw, but Janet only <a name="page206"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 206</span>spat in their faces, for the devil
-was strong within her; and James Haddock lost his eye, from the
-heat of her saliva.&nbsp; The soldiers marvelled at her
-obstinacy, and Jacob, growing full of ire, commanded them to fire
-a harquebuss at her, if she persisted in her stubbornness.&nbsp;
-But this threat only increased the fiendish laugh of old Janet
-into a yell of scorn.&nbsp; All threats proving useless, the
-harquebussier fired his piece.&nbsp; But how were they astonished
-to see the witch grinning defiance at them all, and holding the
-ball up between her right finger and thumb!&nbsp; Another was
-fired at her, which she caught in the left!&nbsp; Stilt, mad to
-see her triumph thus, ran at her with his sword, which shivered
-to pieces upon her breast; and all this time the witch laughed,
-and spat at, and reviled them.&nbsp; At length, Brown, who had
-first arrested her, remembering he had been told that a witch, if
-bled in any of the veins that cross the temples would soon give
-up the ghost, walked boldly up to her, when the devil, scared at
-his intentions, instantly quitted his votaress, and she, left
-helpless, could only storm, and rave, and curse, and beg for
-life.&nbsp; But Brown drew the keen blade across the full purple
-veins, and, with a scream of terror, she fell to the ground.</p>
-<p><a name="page207"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 207</span>Many
-crimes did she confess to the holy man, who attended her last
-moments; besides the one just related, which render &ldquo;the
-little hollow,&rdquo; a spot of fearful interest to the
-mountaineer, who, as he passes the lake at nightfall, turns many
-an anxious glance behind, and fancies that he hears, at times,
-the sound of unearthly voices in the gale, that sweeps by him in
-this wild and lonely dell.</p>
-<p>The castle was soon after surrendered to the Parliament
-forces, by its brave commander, who had the honor of knowing,
-that he was the last, who yielded up the trust confided to him,
-by his sovereign.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>Our repast being concluded, we again mounted our horses, and
-commenced an ascent up a dank, cheerless hollow, called <i>Bwlch
-Tyddiad</i>.&nbsp; Nothing can exceed the wildness of the
-scenery, by which we were surrounded.&nbsp; Huge masses of rock,
-riven by the thunder bolt, or loosened by the frost, lay
-scattered in every direction, while, towering upon either side,
-the herbless mountains frowned, barren, black, grey, and
-terrible.</p>
-<p>Our horses, accustomed, I presume, to such excursions, picked
-their way with the greatest care and safety, and my
-&ldquo;Gallant Brown,&rdquo; <a name="page208"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 208</span>cleared every impediment, as if he
-had been foaled amongst the Alps, and loved them better than the
-verdant plain.&nbsp; Drawing nearer to the top of the cliff, the
-shepherds had made a stair-like path of flat stones, along which
-our cavalcade proceeded with caution; when suddenly we halted
-upon hearing the distant halloos of travellers ascending the
-opposite side of the mountain; and presently three persons, one
-of whom was leading a wearied animal by the bridle, became
-distinctly visible.&nbsp; A shout of recognition from our party
-roused all the echoes of the surrounding hills.&nbsp; The
-figures, as they became more distinct, seemed magically
-transported with myself into the heart of the Sierra Morena,
-where Cardenio, Don Quixote, and Sancho Panza, appeared to me in
-their proper persons; for never was description better realized,
-than in the figures that now presented themselves.&nbsp; The
-first was a handsome, well formed man, with light brown hair,
-which hung in plentiful thickness upon his shoulders; his
-untrimmed beard, joined by overhanging moustachios, and the two
-being united to the upper growth, by a pair of whiskers, the
-luxuriance of which shewed they were permitted to grow in
-uninterrupted freedom.&nbsp; His throat was bare, and his dress
-negligent.&nbsp; The second figure that attracted my <a
-name="page209"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 209</span>attention,
-was a very tall and extremely thin young man, with a serious cast
-of features, that would have done honor to the knight of the
-woful countenance.&nbsp; In his hand he led a jaded hack, which
-in the ascent seemed to have yielded up three parts of its
-existence.&nbsp; Here then was the Rosinante of Cervantes in a
-breathing form; while, by his side, a short good humoured little
-man, with a huge portmanteau buckled on his back, walked like a
-faithful squire, and made an admirable substitute for the
-immortal Sancho; and, as he turned his eyes from precipice to
-glen, it required no great stretch of imagination, to think they
-were wandering in search of his beloved Dapple.&nbsp; We met upon
-a patch of green moss; and here our hamper was again unpacked, to
-cheer the hearts of these toil worn travellers.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p209b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"View from Carreg y Saeth"
-title=
-"View from Carreg y Saeth"
- src="images/p209s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>By their advice, we ascended to the summit of the mountain,
-the view from which was grand and extensive.&nbsp; To the
-eastward, a vast country lies beneath, bounded by Cader Idris,
-the two Arrenigs, and a long range of mountains.&nbsp;
-Immediately under the lofty eminence, upon which we rested, was a
-small round lake, and the pass Ardudwy, which exceeds even the
-celebrated Llanberris in rugged grandeur.&nbsp; The way by which
-our new companions ascended was both <a name="page210"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 210</span>laborious and dangerous; but they
-would not have sacrificed the prospect now presented to them on
-any account.&nbsp; North and south the eye glances over the
-summits of wild mountains, and to the west the Carnaervonshire
-chain, cut in two, as it were, by a high mountain, immediately
-before us, forms the shore of a noble sheet of water, resembling
-a spacious lake, where the sea stretches its arm, into the vale
-of Maentwrog, out of Cardigan Bay.&nbsp; The declining sun gave
-us warning that it was time to quit these wilds, and make the
-best of our way to the foot of the mountain.</p>
-<p>The return is extremely hazardous on horseback.&nbsp; The
-ladies of the party, therefore, resigning their steeds to the
-conduct of some mountaineers, and the gentlemen leading their
-horses by the bridle, commenced the descent.&nbsp; But as I could
-not, from lameness, advantage myself by like caution, and feeling
-confident in the tact, strength, and docility of my favourite, I
-led the way, without experiencing the slightest symptom of
-uneasiness.</p>
-<p>When we had proceeded about half way down, a circumstance
-occurred, that occasioned some unpleasantness.&nbsp; A horse had
-broken loose from one of the leaders, and at full speed came
-galloping down the steep and rugged descent.&nbsp; <a
-name="page211"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 211</span>The animal
-conducted by the tall, thin gentlemen, before described, started
-as his fellow quadruped rushed by him, and, freeing himself from
-control, dashed after him, at an alarming pace; leaving his late
-master, with eyes starting out of their sockets, and mouth wide
-open, with affright, his arms spread out, and his whole frame in
-convulsions of terror, upon the top of a large stone, ludicrously
-bewildered.&nbsp; My steed, evincing the truth of the proverb,
-&ldquo;evil communications&rdquo; etc. for a moment lost his
-presence of mind, and despising my efforts to restrain him,
-bounded over sundry perilous rocky fragments, in desperate
-pursuit.&nbsp; However, by divers forcible arguments, I at length
-succeeded in convincing him of his error, and he returned to his
-duty.</p>
-<p>The two runaways were soon out of sight, and as we concluded
-they had broken their necks, we moved rather solemnly to the
-bottom of the hollow, where our fears were dissipated, by finding
-them quietly browsing in the green meadows, where we had before
-seated ourselves at pic-nic.&nbsp; All here remounted; the
-sun&rsquo;s rays still lingering upon the heights of
-<i>Carreg-y-Saeth</i>, but the pool below looked black and
-cheerless.&nbsp; As we proceeded, the beautiful calm light of
-evening, the cool and refreshing air, <a name="page212"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 212</span>&ldquo;the shard borne beetle, with
-his drowsy hum,&rdquo; the forest flies and midges dancing in the
-clear ether, the murmuring of mountain streams, and the joyous
-notes of our little party, uniting with the sharp tones of our
-horses&rsquo; shoes, clinking against the rocky fragments, formed
-a combination of pleasing sounds and images in this romantic
-solitude, which I shall ever remember with feelings of interest
-and delight.&nbsp; After riding about three miles, surrounded by
-every charm that could make the time pass pleasantly, we arrived
-at the place of parting.&nbsp; A road branching to the right led
-directly to Harlech, a distance of about two miles; and here,
-with a feeling of regret, I hardly ever before experienced, I
-took leave of my kind conductor, and his agreeable friends, a man
-being appointed to walk with me as far as Harlech, for the
-purpose of taking back his master&rsquo;s horse.</p>
-<p>Slowly and sadly I pursued my solitary ride, nor did I once
-address my attendant, until I arrived at the inn, where
-dismounting, I committed to his charge my gallant supporter
-throughout the day.</p>
-<h2><a name="page213"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-213</span>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
-<p class="gutsumm">Harlech&mdash;The Inn&mdash;The
-Castle&mdash;Anecdote of Dafydd ap Ivan ap Einion&mdash;Road to
-Maentwrog&mdash;View&mdash;A persevering Cobbler&mdash;The Oakley
-Arms&mdash;Pleasures of Fly fishing&mdash;New
-Companions&mdash;Angling Stations&mdash;An Adventure&mdash;Road
-to Tremadoc&mdash;Tan y Bwlch&mdash;Port Madoc Breakwater and
-Mountain Scenery described&mdash;Tremadoc&mdash;Tan yr
-Allt&mdash;Pont Aber Glas Llyn&mdash;Lines written at the
-Bridge&mdash;Beddgelert&mdash;The Inn&mdash;Story of a
-Pointer.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Rise from thy haunt, dread genius of the
-clime,<br />
-Rise, magic spirit of forgotten time!<br />
-&rsquo;Tis thine to burst the mantling clouds of age,<br />
-And fling new radiance on Tradition&rsquo;s page:<br />
-See at thy call from Fable&rsquo;s varied store,<br />
-In shadowy train the mingled visions pour;<br />
-Here the wild Briton &rsquo;mid his wilder reign,<br />
-Spurns the proud yoke and scorns the oppressor&rsquo;s chain,<br
-/>
-Here wizard Merlin, where the mighty fell,<br />
-Waves the dark wand and chaunts the thrilling spell.&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: right"><i>Prize Poem</i>, T. S. S.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<h3>HARLECH.</h3>
-<p><span class="smcap">The</span> Blue Lion Inn, built by Sir R.
-W. Vaughan, <a name="page214"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-214</span>for the accommodation of travellers and tourists, is
-most delightfully situated.&nbsp; A carriage road from the north
-leads round to the front, which faces the sea; and forming a
-semicircle, permits the vehicles to drive, through a gate on the
-south end of the house, again into the high road.&nbsp; Great
-taste is displayed in the erection of this pleasant building; the
-parapet wall, with its circular turrets, in which seats are
-placed for the accommodation of visitors, and the terrace with
-its neat shrubberies.&nbsp; I must also acknowledge, that the
-kind attention of the landlord and his servants, deserves the
-highest commendation.</p>
-<p>The view from the terrace is indescribably beautiful.&nbsp;
-The sea lies stretched beneath; the majestic ruins of Harlech
-Castle stand upon a rocky base, frowning in solitary grandeur
-upon the right; and beyond, the long line of Carnaervonshire
-hills projects, like Cambria&rsquo;s lance, forbidding the waves
-to make further inroads upon her territories.</p>
-<p>Pwlhelli and Port Maddock are distinctly visible from this
-spot; and the lovers of fine prospects may remain at the Blue
-lion for a week, without wishing to stray further than the
-terrace in search of the sublime and beautiful.&nbsp; The
-continual variety of light and shadow, with <a
-name="page215"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 215</span>which the
-mountains are alternately robed, the freshness of the air, and
-the solemn majesty of the ruined fortress, form altogether a
-volume for the mind to peruse with intense and unwearied
-interest.</p>
-<h3>HARLECH CASTLE.</h3>
-<p>The present castle was built by Edward I. in 1283, upon the
-ruins of one erected by <i>Maelgwn Gwynedd</i>, Prince of North
-Wales, in 530.&nbsp; It was seized by the Welsh hero, Owen
-Glyndwr, during his struggle for freedom against Henry IV, and
-was retaken about four years afterwards, by an army sent by that
-monarch into Wales.&nbsp; After the defeat of Henry VI. at
-Northampton, this castle afforded a retreat for his queen, but
-being hotly pursued by the Lord Stanley, she was compelled to fly
-from hence with great precipitation, leaving her jewels and other
-valuables behind her.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p215b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Harlech Castle"
-title=
-"Harlech Castle"
- src="images/p215s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>In 1468, this place was in possession of
-Dafydd-ap-Ivan-ap-Einion, a man of singular strength and beauty,
-and of unconquerable bravery.&nbsp; Being a firm friend to the
-Lancastrian line, the Earl William of Pembroke was despatched to
-reduce the fortress; and, after encountering incredible
-difficulties, marching <a name="page216"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 216</span>through the very heart of the
-British Alps, he at length invested the castle, and committed the
-management of the siege to his brother Sir Richard Herbert, a man
-equal in size and prowess to the British commandant.&nbsp; The
-reply of the Welshman, when called upon to surrender, deserves to
-be handed down as a specimen of bravery and loyalty.&nbsp; He had
-never acknowledged the sovereignty of Edward; and for nine years,
-had defied his threats.&nbsp; His answer was in keeping with the
-line of conduct he had adopted: &ldquo;Tell your leader,&rdquo;
-said he to the messenger, &ldquo;that some years ago I held a
-castle in France against its besiegers so long, that all the old
-women in Wales talked of me: tell your commander, that I intend
-to defend this Welsh castle now, until all the old women in
-France shall hear of it.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Famine, however, at last subdued him; but he yielded only upon
-honourable terms, Sir Richard pledging himself for his
-safety.&nbsp; The king at first refused to subscribe to the
-conditions; but Sir Richard, with a spirit that cannot be
-sufficiently applauded, instantly informed his majesty that he
-must take his own life first; for if he lived he would certainly
-replace the Welsh chieftain in his strong hold again.&nbsp; The
-king was too well acquainted with the value of Sir <a
-name="page217"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-217</span>Richard&rsquo;s services and scrupulous honour, to
-persist in his unjust intentions.&nbsp; He therefore, ratified
-the conditions, and pardoned the chief.&nbsp; But the brave
-Englishman was soon after recalled from his military command.</p>
-<p>In the civil wars of Charles I. Harlech Castle was the last
-that held out for the king, under the command of William Owain,
-who surrendered on the ninth of March, 1647.</p>
-<p>Upon the side which faces the sea, the castle must have been
-impregnable; the walls are scarcely distinguishable from the
-rocky base, the whole being a continued surface of dark grey
-masonry; and the north and south sides appear nearly as
-inaccessible.&nbsp; The gateway upon the eastward side is
-situated between two immense rounders, resembling those of Conway
-and Carnaervon.&nbsp; The form of the castle is a square, each
-side measuring seventy yards, and at each corner is a round
-tower; but the turrets that were once attached to them the
-unsparing hand of Time has destroyed.&nbsp; Before the entrance
-is a deep fosse, cut in the solid rock; across which a drawbridge
-was constructed for security and convenience.</p>
-<p>The principal apartments are on the eastward, or entrance,
-side of the inner court.&nbsp; The banqueting hall is opposite;
-the windows <a name="page218"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-218</span>of which look out upon the green surface of the sea;
-and, on the right of the court, there formerly stood a small
-chapel; the ruins of which are still visible, the pointed window
-remaining entire.&nbsp; It is impossible to conceive a finer view
-than is obtained from the towers of Harlech Castle.&nbsp; With a
-clear atmosphere, the monarch of the Welsh mountains may be
-distinctly seen, towering above his subject hills.&nbsp; The
-promontories of Lleyn and Cricaeth Castle, are likewise objects
-of considerable interest; the latter forming a head to a long
-neck of land that juts into the sea from the Carnaervonshire
-coast, backed by a chain of noble mountains.&nbsp; This castle
-likewise owes its foundation to Edward I.</p>
-<p>Harlech is one of those places the traveller leaves with
-regret, and a feeling that he can never see any so beautiful
-again; and from this place to the village of Maentwrog, the road
-increases in beauty every mile.</p>
-<p>The Bay of Cardigan, expanding to the ocean, lies beneath, on
-the left; upon the right, wild rocks and woody hills alternately
-diversify the prospect, and, approaching the northern extremity
-of the bay, the Traith Mawr and Traith Bach, two arms of the sea
-(the former running up to Port Madoc, and the latter into the
-vale of Maentwrog), are noble objects.</p>
-<p><a name="page219"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 219</span>The
-Traith Bach, bounded by mountains upon either side, prepares the
-tourist for the heavenly quietude which reigns eternally in the
-bosom of this earthly paradise; and, about two miles from the
-village, near a farm house called Cemlyn, one of the most
-beautiful views of the valley lies stretched before him.&nbsp; A
-woody dingle opens on the right, down which the Velin Rhyd rushes
-impetuously, mingling its bright waters with the smoothly
-meandering Dwyryd, which commingling, flow gracefully into
-Cardigan Bay.</p>
-<p>In front, and upon the right of the vale, lies the little
-picturesque village of Maentwrog, reposing at the foot of a lofty
-mountain.&nbsp; Fine green meadow lands enrich the centre of the
-valley, through which the river, like a silver serpent,
-&ldquo;drags its slow length along.&rdquo;&nbsp; Upon the
-opposite side is seen the mansion of Tan y Bwlch, backed by a
-mountain forest, and ornamented by a noble terrace in front, with
-pleasure grounds and walks, which the eye loves to rest upon.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p219b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"The Vale of Maentwrog"
-title=
-"The Vale of Maentwrog"
- src="images/p219s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>The road to Festiniog, at the extreme point of the landscape,
-winds up the enclosing hills that fill up the back ground.&nbsp;
-To be appreciated, the view must be seen: the most glowing
-description would fall incalculably short of the reality.</p>
-<p><a name="page220"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 220</span>At
-this spot I was accosted by a very inquisitive personage.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Fine evening, sir.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Yes.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Walking far to-day, sir?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Yes.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;A great many gentlemen come from London to see this
-valley, sir.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I suppose so,&rdquo; (trying to shake him off, but it
-would not do).</p>
-<p>&ldquo;You come from London, I think, sir?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Why do you think so?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Only because a great many London people come this way,
-sir.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;But do not many other travellers come this road, who
-are not Londoners?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Oh yes, sir, but I took you for a Londoner by the cut
-of your coat.&nbsp; You&rsquo;ve come a long way to-day,
-sir?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I have, but how should you know that?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;By the condition of your boots, sir.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>This was a hit I did not anticipate; for, truth to say I was
-nearly bootless, at least the <i>soles</i> had nearly left their
-<i>bodies</i>, upper leathers I mean, and stood mortally in need
-of regeneration; and, as I had not provided myself with a second
-pair, thinking they would prove cumbersome in my knapsack, his
-remark was felt from toe to heel.</p>
-<p><a name="page221"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-221</span>&ldquo;You&rsquo;ll want these repaired, I dare say,
-sir, while you remain at the Oakley Arms&mdash;comfortable
-inn&mdash;capital beds, sir.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Why I think I shall, my friend; perhaps you can
-recommend me to a cobbler, in the village yonder,&rdquo;
-(pointing to Maen Twrog).</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I am a boot maker, sir, in the village, and have
-cobbled, as you are pleased to call it, the soles of all
-strangers in need, for the last twenty years.&nbsp; My father
-performed that office before me; and I may say, my all (awl) of
-life depends upon the gentlemen who visit our beautiful
-valley.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;You are not employed then by the inhabitants of your
-native village?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I <i>was</i>, sir; but a new comer, who wrote over his
-door &lsquo;leather cutter,&rsquo; cut me out; for I never found
-business enough to set up a shop, and so, sir, I am obliged to
-watch for customers, to keep up my trade.&nbsp; Those boots of
-yours, sir, will give me dinners for half the week, if you will
-only let me give them welts, soles, and heel-taps.&nbsp;
-You&rsquo;ve got a fine foot, sir.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>This piece of gross flattery did not prevent my telling him to
-follow me to the inn, and receive the reward of his perseverance
-and industry.</p>
-<h3><a name="page222"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 222</span>THE
-OAKLEY ARMS.<br />
-<span class="GutSmall">TAN Y BWLCH.</span></h3>
-<p>I was tired, and gladly resigned my dilapidated boots to the
-care of my <i>soles&rsquo;</i> physician; who, with a most
-respectful bow, promised to let me have them by eight
-o&rsquo;clock on the following morning.</p>
-<p>Having partaken of a most excellent dish of fish, a small
-portion of roasted mutton, strawberry tartlet, cheese, celery,
-&amp;c., I thought I should like to try my fortune in the lovely
-stream of Dwyryd.&nbsp; I therefore requested the waiter to
-procure me the loan of a pair of shoes or boots, suitable for the
-purpose, proposing to pay for the accommodation.&nbsp; I was soon
-supplied, and, anticipating a delightful evening&rsquo;s sport,
-sallied forth with complete apparatus.</p>
-<p>How deceitful are the views of man!&nbsp; I cast my
-line&mdash;it was a fatal cast&mdash;I struck at an imaginary or
-real rise, and in an instant all my hopes were crushed; for my
-rod broke off at the second joint, and sailing down the stream,
-was suddenly brought up by one of the flies hooking a fragment of
-rock.&nbsp; With much trouble I recovered the shattered top
-pieces, but in <a name="page223"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-223</span>endeavouring to extricate my fly, my foot slipped, and
-I found myself up to my waist in water, and my foot jammed
-between two pieces of rock at the bottom, from whence I was glad
-to extricate it by leaving my shoe behind.&nbsp; It was very
-unfortunate.&nbsp; I cursed my ill-luck, sat down upon the bank,
-put up my flies, put my broken rod in its case, and prepared to
-return to my inn.&nbsp; But&mdash;I had only one shoe!&nbsp; I
-endeavoured to recover the lost one, but in vain.&nbsp; Doubtless
-it was buffetting its way amongst rushing waters and fragments of
-rock, full half a mile off by this time.&nbsp; How I should get
-to the Oakley Arms, through all the uneven stony ways, I knew
-not.&nbsp; I could not hop all the way, it was very evident; and
-to attempt to walk with but one shoe, would deprive me of the
-sole of my foot.&nbsp; At this moment, taking out my silk
-handkerchief to wipe my brows&mdash;ah!&mdash;the thing was
-settled.&nbsp; I bound it as many times doubled as I could round
-my foot, tying it about with a part of my fishing line, and in
-this lamentable state, I reached the house.</p>
-<p>No routed warrior from the field of battle ever looked more
-chop-fallen than I, in re-entering my late happy
-dining-room.&nbsp; It was not an hour&mdash;no, not an hour
-ago&mdash;when, all elate and joyous, I walked forth, pregnant
-with hope and jollity.&nbsp; Look <a name="page224"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 224</span>at me now&mdash;&rsquo;twas
-lamentable!&nbsp; I rang the bell; the waiter came in, and no
-sooner cast his eyes on me, than he broke into an uncontrollable
-laugh.&nbsp; I confess I expected a very different reception, and
-my first impulse was to kick him out of the room; but casting my
-eyes upon my handkerchief-bound foot, turned the whole current of
-my feelings, and I could not forbear joining in the laugh, for
-the soul of me.</p>
-<p>The waiter&rsquo;s view of the case was undoubtedly the
-correct one.&nbsp; I felt it, and it was actually with difficulty
-I accounted to him for my present appearance, my ideas had
-undergone so complete a revolution from tragic to comic!</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Well&mdash;&rsquo;tis a funny world,&rdquo; said I;
-&ldquo;bring me a pair of slippers, water to wash, a bottle of
-port, and a cigar.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>I was just in the marrow of my cigar, when two young
-gentlemen, who had pedestrianized from Llanrwst since the
-morning, entered the room.&nbsp; They were fair-haired Saxons,
-and particularly unacquainted with all they had seen in their
-route.&nbsp; I requested them to join me, and they were pleased
-to honour me with their company.&nbsp; But their stock of
-information being remarkably small, I resolved within myself to
-avoid the route they intended to pursue on the following morning,
-and understanding they <a name="page225"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 225</span>meant to visit Harlech Castle, I
-informed them I should pursue my way to Tremadoc.&nbsp; As I
-could not extract any information from these tourists, I called
-for pen, ink and paper, and amused myself with putting down the
-events of the day, while one of the young men flung his legs upon
-the sofa, and the other placed his feet on the fender.&nbsp; Deep
-sonorous notes soon succeeded this arrangement, and I pursued my
-task without any other interruption, until my attention was drawn
-to the heavy pattering of rain against the window, and the
-whistling of a keen wind through the passage.&nbsp; I felt
-chilly, and drew nearer the fire.&nbsp; The task I imposed upon
-myself being finished, and the servant having brought me my bed
-candlestick, I retired to rest, leaving my agreeable companions
-in the midst of a nasal duet.</p>
-<p>Oh, the comforts of a clean room, clean sheets, and a good
-bed!&nbsp; These I experienced at the Oakley Arms; and I arose
-refreshed, and eager to commence my walk; but I was doomed to
-disappointment, for on drawing up the blind of my window, a dark
-and dismal morning presented itself, the rain falling in
-torrents, and the lovely valley transformed into a gloomy gorge
-of rolling clouds.&nbsp; What&rsquo;s to be done? thought I; jump
-into bed again, answered my careful spirit.&nbsp; I <a
-name="page226"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 226</span>obeyed the
-suggestion, and slept another hour, when I again awoke, and on
-inspection found the day still melancholy and tearful.</p>
-<p>I descended to the breakfast room, and there I found my
-quondam companions in precisely the same attitudes I had left
-them on the preceding night;&mdash;as motionless and silent, but
-their musical instruments were out of order, I suppose, as they
-no longer sent forth their former deep tones, and their eyes
-indeed were differently directed; the gentleman on the sofa
-inspecting the ceiling; the other profoundly scrutinizing a Dutch
-figure on the chimney-piece, with a foaming pot of porter in one
-hand, and a short pipe in the other.&nbsp; It was neither Souter
-Johnny, nor Toby Philpot; but I involuntarily roared out
-&ldquo;dear Tom, this brown jug,&rdquo; &amp;c.&nbsp; It was like
-an electric shock to the tourists.&nbsp; One leaped from the
-sofa, and the other withdrew his feet from the fender with
-precipitation; first stared at each other, and then both at me,
-in mute astonishment.&nbsp; I cheerfully bade them good-morrow,
-and we sat down to breakfast.</p>
-<p>Never did I pray more heartily for a shelter from the storm,
-than I did now for a gleam of sunshine to cheer me in this horrid
-calm.&nbsp; These rival Incubuses fretted me.&mdash;Ha!
-who&rsquo;s that curtseying to me as she passes?&mdash;Oh she
-opens <a name="page227"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-227</span>her basket, intimating she has something to sell; they
-are hose, I perceive.&nbsp; The rain increases rather than abates
-its violence.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Come hither, my girl,&rdquo; said I, as I beckoned her
-to come in.&nbsp; &ldquo;She will assist in beguiling the tedious
-morning,</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;That like a foul and ugly witch<br />
-Does limp so tediously away.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>And, having nothing better to do, I put the events of our
-interview into rhyme.</p>
-<blockquote><p style="text-align: center"><span
-class="GutSmall">TRAVELLER.</span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Where art thou going, pretty lass?<br />
-The rain falls thick and fast;<br />
-Come in, and dry thy mantle, maid,<br />
-And shun the bleak cold blast.&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: center"><span
-class="GutSmall">GIRL.</span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;I heed not, sir, the mountain gale,<br />
-Nor thickly falling rain;<br />
-For my poor mother lies at home<br />
-In sickness and in pain;<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And I must haste to sell my work,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And much I have to spare,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; That I may purchase winter store<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; To free her mind from care.<br />
-<a name="page228"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 228</span>For she
-is old, and quite infirm,<br />
-And child hath none but me,<br />
-And oh her heart is yearning now<br />
-My face again to see.&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: center"><span
-class="GutSmall">TRAVELLER.</span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Cold is the heart that would not beat<br />
-To see that face of thine,<br />
-Where sweet simplicity hath traced<br />
-Her lineaments divine.&rdquo;<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; She turned away her head to hide<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; A tear upon her cheek;<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; While piety beamed in her eye,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And resignation meek.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center"><span
-class="GutSmall">GIRL.</span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Oh do not, do not stay me, sir,<br />
-For I must to the fair,<br />
-To sell my hose, and purchase food,<br />
-And things for winter wear.&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: center"><span
-class="GutSmall">TRAVELLER.</span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;I&rsquo;ll buy thy hose; thou shalt not walk<br />
-Beneath the drenching rain,<br />
-But tarry here until the sun<br />
-Shines brightly forth again.&rdquo;<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Her hose were bought, she sought her home<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; With smiles upon her face;<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Her heart was light, her eyes were bright<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Her every motion, grace.<br />
-<a name="page229"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 229</span>And
-happy was the traveller&rsquo;s heart<br />
-When bidding her farewell;<br />
-Her glance of gratitude, said all,<br />
-And more, than tongue could tell.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>By the time I had committed this little effusion to paper, the
-sun shone out gloriously; and it had the astonishing effect of
-giving a sort of animation to the mute gentlemen, who absolutely
-rose from their drowsy postures and walked to the window.&nbsp;
-Thank heaven! I mentally exclaimed; I have a chance now of
-getting rid of my &ldquo;musty superfluity;&rdquo; but I was
-mistaken.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;You will now be able to start for Harlech,&rdquo; said
-I.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Why a&mdash;&rdquo; drawled one, &ldquo;I am afraid
-it&rsquo;s too late, as we wish to get to bed early
-to-night.&nbsp; What do you say, Tom?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Why I think so too, Dick; and so we&rsquo;ll be happy
-to join you, sir, in your walk, as I think you said you intended
-proceeding to Tremadoc.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>I said I should be happy, with a smile, that extracted from
-one of them the question, &ldquo;Ain&rsquo;t you well,
-sir?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Without replying, I proceeded to put up my little all in the
-knapsack; having first desired the waiter to bring my bill.</p>
-<p><a name="page230"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-230</span>&ldquo;You&rsquo;d better put it all together, and we
-can divide it,&rdquo; said they.</p>
-<p>I agreed, and it being discharged, after paying for the shoes
-which I borrowed for my evening&rsquo;s sport, and for the
-repairing, which was excellently performed by my loquacious
-cobbler, I started with my two hopeful friends for
-Tremadoc.&nbsp; We however, first went to view the grounds of
-Tan-y-bwlch, the seat of W. G. Oakley Esq.&nbsp; The name
-signifies &ldquo;below the pass:&rdquo; it is situated on the
-side of a hill which overlooks the vale.</p>
-<p>From the terrace of this mansion you command one of the most
-romantic views in Wales.&nbsp; Harlech Castle is visible upon the
-right; the Merionethshire mountains tower in the distance, and
-the entire valley, from Festiniog to Traeth Bychen, watered by
-the river Dwyryd, is interesting beyond description.&nbsp; Lord
-Lyttleton tells us, in his observations upon this valley, that an
-honest Welsh farmer, who died there at 105 years of age, had by
-his first wife thirty children, ten by his second, and four by
-his third.&nbsp; His eldest son was eighty-one years older than
-his youngest, and 800 persons, descended from his body, attended
-his funeral.</p>
-<p>I should be doing injustice to the worthy landlord of the
-Maentwrog Inn, whose house I used <a name="page231"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 231</span>upon my second visit to this
-delightful valley, did I not speak in praise of his attention to
-the comforts of all travellers.&nbsp; Good beds, civil waiters,
-excellent fare, and cheap charges, render this one of the very
-best inns in Wales.&nbsp; And hear, ye lingering tourists! you
-may have bed and board for the inconsiderable sum of one guinea
-per week; which I think a very considerable temptation to remain
-at it a month, for there is sufficient in the neighbourhood to
-interest the most phlegmatic of Adam&rsquo;s progeny.&nbsp; From
-hence may be visited the following interesting places.&nbsp; The
-village of Festiniog, three miles, where there are two good inns,
-the Pengwern Arms, and the Newborough Arms, where post horses and
-cars are always in readiness; there is also a good boarding-house
-kept by Miss Owen.&nbsp; The falls of Cynfael, two and a half;
-the slate quarries, five and a half; the cataracts of the Rhaiadr
-Du and Ravenfall, two miles; Llyn Llyanyrch, three and a half,
-where the trout are excellent; Cwmorddin Pool, lies to the
-northward, about four and a half miles, to which the tourist may
-be conducted by the railroad.&nbsp; There is a house at each end
-of the lake where the angler will find accommodation from the
-hospitable owners for a trifling remuneration.&nbsp; Lynn Mannot
-contains very large trout, and is six miles from Maentwrog, <a
-name="page232"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 232</span>and Llyn
-Morwynion is about the same distance.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p231b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"The Raven Fall, near Maentwrog"
-title=
-"The Raven Fall, near Maentwrog"
- src="images/p231s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>We proceeded along the lower road by the north side of the
-salts, as the inhabitants of the valley call the arm of the sea,
-which here has the appearance of a lake begirt with mountains,
-craggy cliffs, and shadowing woods.&nbsp; Here we bade adieu to
-the delightful valley of Festiniog, and, after walking about four
-miles along a pleasant road, a noble sheet of water met our eyes,
-which appeared to be hemmed in by inaccessible mountains,
-differing in form from those we had left behind, being more
-conical, and some shooting upwards like pyramids into the
-clouds.</p>
-<p>As we proceeded, we discovered it to be the Traeth Mawr, which
-as the sea is hidden from us by a breakwater, has the appearance
-of a broad lake.</p>
-<p>Upon this breakwater, which extends across the bay, is a
-railroad which conveys slates from the quarries at Festiniog to
-Port Madoc, where it is calculated ten thousand tons are shipped
-annually.&nbsp; Port Madoc receives its name from the late
-William Alexander Maddoc Esq., of Tan-y-allt, as does the town of
-Tremadoc.</p>
-<p>The extraordinary efforts of this enterprising man caused him
-to be looked up to as the <a name="page233"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 233</span>Prince of the soil.&nbsp; He
-redeemed, by constructing an embankment of nearly one mile in
-length from north to south, across the Traeth Mawr, at the
-eastern extremity of Cardigan Bay, a tract of more than 2,700
-acres of land.&nbsp; This enterprise was completed in 1811, and
-cost upwards of &pound;100,000; so that, with the lands
-previously recovered, no less than 7000 acres have been regained,
-6000 of which are cultivated.</p>
-<p>The view from the breakwater is perhaps the finest in North
-Wales for distant mountain scenery.&nbsp; When the tourist has
-reached the centre of it, let him turn his back upon the sea, and
-upon his right he will perceive a hill, called Plas Newedd, from
-which a range of Alpine scenery stretches up to the monarch of
-Snowdonia, who towers pre-eminent in the distance.&nbsp; Upon his
-left another range, commencing with a hill called Moel Ghaist,
-leads up to the same grand object, and the extraordinary variety
-displayed in the formation of these wonderful masses with varying
-lights and shadows that adorn them with sunny crowns or misty
-mantles, produce a sublimity of effect I never before
-experienced.&nbsp; A bridge joins the breakwater to the quay at
-Port Madoc, under which the tide rushes with great impetuosity,
-covering a vast extent of ground at the flood, which is left
-nearly <a name="page234"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-234</span>dry at the ebb.&nbsp; About half a mile from Port
-Madoc, upon a rising ground, stands a handsome house, once the
-property, though not the principal residence, of the great
-speculator, which is now inhabited by Mr. Williams, a solicitor,
-and agent to the creditors of the deceased.&nbsp; Proceeding
-along the road, in a short time the tourist obtains a peep at the
-little town of Tremadoc; but before reaching it he perceives the
-church, an elegant building, with a tower and lofty spire, which
-forms a principal object in the landscape.&nbsp; The archway,
-under which the church is approached, is a beautiful specimen of
-workmanship, and does equal credit to the taste of the founder
-and execution of the builder.&nbsp; Divine service is read here
-in the English language every Sunday, which is a great
-accommodation to the English families residing in the
-neighbourhood, as there is no other church within twenty miles
-where it is so performed.</p>
-<h3>TREMADOC</h3>
-<p>or the town of Madoc, is built quadrangularly, and in the
-centre of the square is a column with a pedestal, round which are
-twelve steps.&nbsp; On the eastern side is a commodious market
-house, <a name="page235"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-235</span>above which are the assembly rooms.&nbsp; A market is
-held here on Fridays, and the Barmouth and Carnaervon coach
-passes through three times a-week.</p>
-<p>Having refreshed ourselves with a luncheon of salad and cold
-meat, we three trudged off together, in spite of wind and
-weather, which threatened a speedy commencement of
-hostilities.&nbsp; Large masses of vapoury clouds were driven
-above our heads; the swallows skimmed the surface of the river,
-and brushed the standing corn with their swift wings, as they
-flew along in the pursuit of their prey; and the wind blew loud
-and shrilly, as in the month of November.&nbsp; At a short
-distance from the town, upon the Beddgelert road, is a lofty
-hill, the base of which is planted with fir trees; through which
-a path winds up to the mansion of Tan-yr-allt, the late beautiful
-residence of Mr. Madocks.&nbsp; We had not proceeded far, when we
-were compelled to seek shelter in a hollow, of which there are
-many at the feet of the enormous precipices which overhang the
-road.</p>
-<p>The transient storm having passed away, and sunshine once more
-lighting up the valley, we again pushed forward.&nbsp; The
-Merionethshire mountains upon the right, decked in their
-countless hues of rock and heather, over which the departing <a
-name="page236"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 236</span>storm swept
-with its rolling clouds, in dark magnificence, formed a noble
-subject for the artist&rsquo;s pencil.&nbsp; The road is elevated
-above the meadows which enrich the centre of the vale; and the
-river, which flows through them, having risen above its banks and
-spread itself over a considerable tract of country, resembled an
-extensive lake.</p>
-<p>About half way between Tremadoc and Beddgelert, is a small
-dingle upon the left of the road, with a neat lodge at the
-entrance, and a path leading up to the shrubbery, beneath which a
-mountain stream flows rapidly, and empties itself into the
-Rhine.&nbsp; The path leads up to the residence of Capt.
-Parry.&nbsp; As we proceeded, numerous falls dashed down the
-mountains and plunging into hollows underneath the road, emerged
-again upon the other side.&nbsp; We were several times forced to
-take shelter from the heavy showers under fallen blocks of rock;
-and once as the storm abated, and we looked anxiously out to see
-if it was clear enough to pursue our journey, a glorious rainbow,
-stretching across the valley, its points resting upon the
-mountains on either side, struck even my snow-models of men with
-something like sensibility; for as they crept out of their
-sheltering rock, they observed with infantine simplicity,
-&ldquo;Well, really that&rsquo;s <a name="page237"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 237</span>very pretty.&rdquo;&nbsp; We now
-proceeded at a rapid pace, and the river became more deep and
-narrow, and the circling eddies, as they floated down the stream,
-announced to us that we were approaching the fall of a great body
-of water, when suddenly&mdash;whizz, whirr, clash, splash, dash,
-astounding and astonishing&mdash;</p>
-<h3>ABER GLAS LLYNN,</h3>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p237b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Pont Aber Glaslyn"
-title=
-"Pont Aber Glaslyn"
- src="images/p237s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>with all its world of horrors, burst at once upon our
-view.&nbsp; I felt a tremulous sensation within me; a contraction
-of the muscles of my throat; an hysterical sob, and a desire to
-weep.&nbsp; I stood stone still; while my edifying companions
-pursued their way without making a single observation.&nbsp; I
-halted upon the centre of the bridge, and gave vent to my
-feelings in pencilling down the following</p>
-<h3>LINES<br />
-<span class="GutSmall">WRITTEN ON THE BRIDGE AT ABER GLAS
-LLYNN.</span></h3>
-<blockquote><p>Thou of the stormy soul, who left behind<br />
-The love of sunny skies and smiling vales,<br />
-<a name="page238"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 238</span>With thy
-fresh boyhood; thou upon whose brow<br />
-Stern care hath written gloom, and worldly wrongs<br />
-Made darksome; hither bend thy leaden steps,<br />
-And find a home here in this wild abyss!&mdash;<br />
-Abode congenial to thy lightless mind.<br />
-Ye black huge rocks, drear, mountainous, and stern,<br />
-First-born of chaos, everlasting piles<br />
-And monuments of the creation&mdash;hail!<br />
-Around your heads the thunder rolls in vain,<br />
-And the fierce lightnings from your summits bare<br />
-Turn harmless.&nbsp; Frown, frown on, ye giants stern,<br />
-Majestic emblems of eternity!<br />
-The torrents are your tongues, and with their roar<br />
-Talk of your dignity for ever.&nbsp; Hail!<br />
-White foaming, thundering, falls the boiling flood;<br />
-Rocks clash, and echo mocks the horrid din,<br />
-While man appalled, stands breathless, in amaze,<br />
-And, filled with awe, exalts his thoughts to Him,<br />
-Who was, who is, and aye must be supreme!</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Just above the bridge is a semicircular rock, which forms a
-salmon-leap, over which the salmon, at spawning time, first lodge
-themselves at the height of five or six yards.&nbsp; Proceeding
-through the pass, at every step new wonders met the eye.&nbsp;
-The late heavy rains had swollen the mountain waterfalls, and
-caused a terrific torrent to roar and struggle through a narrow
-channel; for the mountains, forming this southern end of the
-vale, approach so near to each other, that <a
-name="page239"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 239</span>they only
-afford a contracted flow for the river, and a narrow road, while
-their rocky sides rise so perpendicularly, that their summits are
-scarcely farther distant from each other than their
-foundations.&nbsp; The rushing river was a pure sheet of white;
-furious, uncontrollable; nothing but the immense blocks riven
-from the mountain&rsquo;s craggy sides could withstand its
-dreadful impetuosity.&nbsp; A few stunted fir and larch trees at
-the commencement of the pass were seen starting from the dark
-clefts upon either side, which threw a deeper shade upon this
-awful valley.</p>
-<p>Cradock calls this pass &ldquo;the noblest specimen of the
-<i>finely horrid</i> the eye can possibly behold.&nbsp; The
-poet,&rdquo; he continues, &ldquo;has not described, nor the
-painter pictured so gloomy a retreat.&nbsp; &rsquo;Tis the last
-approach to the mansion of Pluto, through the regions of
-Despair.&rdquo;&nbsp; I could have stopped for hours to admire
-this splendid example of the sublimity of Nature, but time
-pressed, so I pushed on to Beddgelert which is not more than a
-mile and a half from the bridge.&nbsp; A solitary mountain ash
-which grows about half way up the pass, is the sole bright thing
-in this abode of terror, and looks like Beauty in
-desolation.&nbsp; Emerging from the pass there is a stone <a
-name="page240"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 240</span>which is
-called the chair of Rhys G&ocirc;ch o&rsquo;r&rsquo; Ryri; a
-famous mountain bard who lived in the time of Owen Glyndwr.&nbsp;
-He resided at the entrance into the Traeth Mawr Sands, from
-whence he used to walk, and sitting upon this stone compose his
-poems.&nbsp; He died in 1420, at the advanced age of 120 years;
-he was a gentleman of property, and was buried in the ancient
-priory at</p>
-<h3>BEDDGELERT.</h3>
-<p>Some are of opinion that this word should be written Celert or
-Cilert, Bedd-Cilert, or Cilert&rsquo;s grave; supposing that a
-monk or saint of that name was buried here.&nbsp; Another
-celebrated bard was entombed at this place, named Daffydd Nanmor,
-who died about the year 1460.</p>
-<p>The Goat is an excellent inn, and every attention the
-traveller can desire is paid with the greatest celerity.&nbsp;
-Twenty post horses are kept at this inn for travellers, and eight
-or ten ponys for the accommodation of those visitors who wish to
-ascend Snowdon with ease and safety. <a name="citation240"></a><a
-href="#footnote240" class="citation">[240]</a></p>
-<p>At nine o&rsquo;clock, I strolled from the inn to the bridge,
-where I was joined by a peasant, who, by his appearance, promised
-to be communicative.&nbsp; <a name="page241"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 241</span>It was a lovely evening; there was
-no moon, but the clear sky displayed its burning host, in
-beautiful array.&nbsp; No breath of air disturbed the silent
-slumbers of the peaceful woods.&nbsp; The lull of rippling waters
-alone struck upon the ear, yielding a solemn tone like the deep
-swell of the organ, breaking upon the deepest solitude.</p>
-<p>In such a situation how indescribable is the feeling which
-takes possession of us!&nbsp; What language can express, what
-tongue can utter it?&nbsp; My very breathing seemed to disturb
-the excessive sweetness of nature&rsquo;s melody.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;This is a very pretty place, sir,&rdquo; said the
-peasant, interrupting my reverie.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;It is indeed,&rdquo; I replied.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I suppose, sir, you&rsquo;ve been to visit the grave of
-Gelert, Llewellyn&rsquo;s hound?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I have.&nbsp; Do you believe the legend?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Indeed, sir, I do,&rdquo; said he with a sigh;
-&ldquo;but I never thought a man could feel so much for the death
-of a brute, until last year&mdash;<i>hai how</i>!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>This observation made me inquisitive to know what had so
-suddenly changed his opinions.&nbsp; &ldquo;What has caused you,
-my friend, to believe <a name="page242"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 242</span>in a legend so suddenly, which you
-never gave any credence to before?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Why sir, I&rsquo;ll tell you; you must know that I had
-a favourite pointer bitch, <i>Truan Bac</i>.&nbsp; Oh, she was
-the beautifullest creature you ever saw.&nbsp; She was the pride
-of the country; and gentlemen would come to me and say,
-&lsquo;William, will you lend me your little bitch to go a
-shooting on the mountains&mdash;<i>only for a day</i>?&nbsp;
-Because you see, sir, there was not her equal in all Wales, for a
-single dog; ay, and she&rsquo;d back as staunch as any on
-&rsquo;em, and a better retriever never went into a field.&nbsp;
-Such a nose! ah! poor wench; I never knew thy equal!&nbsp; You
-must think, sir, I was very loath to let her go without me, for I
-bred her, and broke her in&mdash;though very little breaking she
-wanted;&mdash;and you know, sir, a good dog is soon spoilt by a
-bad sportsman, and the creatures be as fond of a good shot, as he
-be fond of shooting to a good dog.&nbsp; No day was too long for
-her when the scent lay.&nbsp; The motion of your hand was enough
-for her; to the right, or left, or take the fences.&nbsp;
-She&rsquo;d never baulk her game, or make a false point; if the
-birds had just gone off, you might know she was doubtful by a
-<i>leetle</i> motion in her <a name="page243"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 243</span>tail.&nbsp; But, if she stood stiff
-and staunch, you might bet a guinea to a mushroom that there was
-game before her, and you&rsquo;d nothing to do but to go up and
-take your shot.&nbsp; Down she was to charge, and, if you bade
-her, she would bring your bird without ruffling a feather.&nbsp;
-Well, sir, the beginning of last August unfortunately she had a
-litter of pups.&nbsp; &rsquo;Twas a cross breed,
-<i>ysywaith</i>!&mdash;and I got the butcher&rsquo;s boy to
-destroy them, which he did, and buried them in the muck heap, at
-the back of the stable.&nbsp; From that time, she would never
-stir from her bed, that was under the manger.&nbsp; My dame took
-her her food as usual, and placed it just inside the stable
-door.&nbsp; My little boy, Billy, went next day, with a mess of
-potatoes and barley meal, but told his mother that Rose
-had&rsquo;nt eat up her yesterday&rsquo;s mess.&nbsp; Ah! she
-cried, she&rsquo;ll eat it when she&rsquo;s hungry, I warrant
-her.&nbsp; Billy went next evening, but her victuals were
-untouched, and, when he went to coax her, she growled at him, and
-showed her teeth&mdash;a thing she never in her life had done
-before to any living being; so he was frightened, and told me of
-it next morning, and I went to the stable to see her.&nbsp; Her
-meat was all dried up in the tub, and, when I went to her, she
-seemed nothing but skin and <a name="page244"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 244</span>bones.&nbsp; I called her Rose! poor
-Rose! she slowly raised up her head, opened her bloodshot eyes,
-and moaned so piteously!&nbsp; I thought she was dying.&nbsp; I
-held her a little milk; she just moistened her tongue, and gave
-one wag of her tail, as much as to say, thank you, master; and
-her head dropt again, and her eyes closed.&nbsp; I knew
-&rsquo;twas four days since she had eaten any thing.&nbsp; I put
-some food by her, and went to my work.&nbsp; When I returned at
-night, the first thing I did was to go into the stable, where I
-found the food untouched and my poor little bitch dead, cold and
-stiff.&nbsp; I shall never forget it&mdash;<i>wela</i>!
-<i>wela</i>!&mdash;I drew her from under the manger, and what do
-you think, sir?&nbsp; I&rsquo;ll be shot, if there warn&rsquo;t
-her five little pups that the butcher&rsquo;s boy had
-kill&rsquo;d!&mdash;she had dug them out of the dung-hill one by
-one, and laid them in her kennel, and, fearing they would be
-taken from her again she concealed them with her body, and died
-through starvation, rather than give &rsquo;em up!&nbsp;
-Wasn&rsquo;t that nature, sir?&nbsp; I&rsquo;m almost ashamed to
-say it; but indeed, sir, I wiped away tears from my cheeks, when
-I saw that sight.&nbsp; I took her up in my arms, and buried her
-and her young litter in the same grave; and since that time I
-never refuse my belief to the stories I hear of <a
-name="page245"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 245</span>surprising
-instances of devoted affection, gratitude, and instinct, in any
-of her race.&nbsp; <i>Wela</i>! <i>wela</i>!</p>
-<p>&ldquo;But sir, if you should come this way on your return,
-and should want a day or two&rsquo;s good sport on the mountains,
-I&rsquo;ve got a dog that&rsquo;s second to none in the country,
-and I shall be proud to serve you.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>I promised, if I should find it convenient to return by the
-first of September, to engage his dog, if not previously hired;
-and bidding him follow me to the Goat, I ordered for him a
-tumbler of whiskey-punch, which spirit is as much esteemed in
-Snowdonia as in the mountains of Wicklow.</p>
-<h2><a name="page246"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-246</span>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
-<p class="gutsumm">Departure from
-Beddgelert&mdash;Vortigern&rsquo;s Hill&mdash;Snowdon&mdash;Llynn
-Gwynant&mdash;Lines written upon Llynn
-Gwynant&mdash;Gwrydd&mdash;Public Houses&mdash;Lake
-Fishing&mdash;A Night Adventure&mdash;Pass of
-Llanberis&mdash;Legend of the Giant&rsquo;s Night-Cap&mdash;The
-Lakes&mdash;The Castle of Dolbadarn and Legend&mdash;View of the
-Lakes.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Oh, who hath stood on Snowdon&rsquo;s
-side,<br />
-And glanced o&rsquo;er Mona&rsquo;s virgin pride;<br />
-And gazed on fatal Moel y don,<br />
-But thought of those once there undone?<br />
-When Saxons, and their foreign band,<br />
-Were crushed by the sons of the mountain land.&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: right"><i>T. J. Llewelyn Grichard</i>.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p><span class="smcap">On</span> the following morning I quitted
-the inn, where every attention was shewn that a traveller could
-desire, and proceeded over the Ivy bridge, through which the
-Gwynant flowed, <a name="page247"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-247</span>deep and smooth as glass, without an obstruction to
-ruffle its clear waters, that glided along, kissing its verdant
-banks, like the stream of a happy life.&nbsp; Quietude reigned in
-this region uninterrupted.&nbsp; About half a mile from
-Beddgelert, a rocky eminence projects into the road, called
-<i>Vortigern&rsquo;s Hill</i>, or <i>Dinas Emrys</i>, a magician,
-who was sent for to this place by Vortigern, when he found
-himself hated by his subjects, and fled from their just anger to
-this secluded spot.&nbsp; Passing this memorable place, a round
-clump of rock attracts the eye, rising as it were in the centre
-of the valley, and called <i>Moel Wynn</i>.&nbsp; Looking
-backward, <i>Moel Hebog</i>, the Hawk hill, rises majestically
-and closes up the entrance to Beddgelert.&nbsp; Moel Shebbod
-towers in front, and, as we pursued our delightful path, about
-two miles and a half from Beddgelert, an opening of the hills
-upon the left displayed a deep gorge, and the base of Snowdon,
-whose high peak, rising in the unclouded skies, held up the holy
-symbol of Christianity, as in adoration of the Creator.&nbsp; At
-length, I reached <i>Llynn Dinas</i>, a lake of about three
-quarters of a mile in extent, through which the Gwynant runs; it
-is surrounded by lofty mountains of a deeper tint than is usually
-seen upon the Welsh hills.&nbsp; A <a name="page248"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 248</span>beautifully situated cottage here at
-the far end of the lake, belonging to Mr. Sampson, nestles among
-the protecting woods, and forms a delightful object.&nbsp; The
-river which feeds the lake, winds through the verdant and
-undulating grounds which form a miniature park, between the
-cottage and the lake.&nbsp; Following up the course of the
-stream, I left Llynn Dinas behind me, and proceeded by a gradual
-ascent through the most delightful scenery I ever beheld, until I
-caught glimpses through the plantations of</p>
-<h3>LLYNN GWYNANT,</h3>
-<p>and after a while beheld it stretching beneath me upon my left
-hand.&nbsp; The valley forms a bowl among the hills.&nbsp; The
-bottom is a small grassy plain, dotted with trees, which has
-obtained the appellation of Beauty sleeping in the lap of
-Terror.&nbsp; The mountains that surround the vale, have a wild
-and rugged appearance.&nbsp; As I proceeded along the road
-towards the head of the valley, a horn was sounded from the
-mountain, and I perceived a Welsh girl standing upon a projecting
-eminence: bare headed and bare footed, was this nymph of Cambria;
-her cheeks were swelled out with her occupation, and she <a
-name="page249"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 249</span>looked like
-a female <i>Boreas</i>, bursting with the wind she was sending
-forth by degrees to alarm the <i>world</i>.</p>
-<p>She eyed me with glances of curiosity all the while, and I
-thought she could perhaps give me some information about the
-valley, which might be interesting; so quitting the direct road,
-I scrambled up the hill side, and asked her the meaning of her
-sounding the horn so loudly?&nbsp; But she either did not, or
-would not, understand me; and after vainly endeavouring to
-extract any thing from her, I quietly sat myself down, delighted
-by the splendid view beneath me, and gave vent to my feelings in
-the following lines:</p>
-<h3>LLYNN GWYNANT.</h3>
-<blockquote><p>Llynn Gwynant, Llynn Gwynant! how bless&rsquo;d
-should I be,<br />
-When the winter of life crowns my temples with snow,<br />
-To rest on thy margin, with her who loves me,<br />
-And children whose love gathers strength as they grow.</p>
-<p>There are mountains whose peaks rise more lofty by far,<br />
-And valleys more spacious and fertile to view,<br />
-But of all the high hills and green glens that there are,<br />
-Llynn Gwynant give me, with its waters of blue.</p>
-<p><a name="page250"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 250</span>Lynn
-Gwynant, Lynn Gwynant! I bid thee farewell,<br />
-Where peace in the beauty of solitude glows,<br />
-Again in the cold hearted city to dwell,<br />
-And pine for the calm of thy blissful repose.</p>
-<p>Farewell to the lake with the surface of glass,<br />
-Brown heath and blue mountains&mdash;abode of the free!<br />
-This heart, like the flood from the high <i>Ffynnon Las</i>, <a
-name="citation250"></a><a href="#footnote250"
-class="citation">[250]</a><br />
-Will leap from its gloom to find rapture in thee.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Having nearly reached the extremity of this valley, I gazed,
-from my elevated situation, upon the dark and perpendicular rocks
-on the opposite side; and towering in the air immediately over
-the centre of the valley was an eagle with expanded wings,
-apparently motionless.&nbsp; Presently it rose a little higher,
-but without the slightest visible exertion, then stooped again,
-mounted once more, and, as fast as the eye could follow, swept
-round the huge buttresses of sharp ridged cliffs, that hang over
-the entrance of the pass of Llanberis.</p>
-<p>As Llynn Gwynant is gradually shut out from the lingering gaze
-of the traveller, (who it may <a name="page251"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 251</span>be said during the whole of the
-ascent, should turn his eyes behind him), and he at length looks
-forward in the direction of Llanberris, a new scene of grandeur
-bursts upon him.&nbsp; He has left beauty behind in its loveliest
-form;&mdash;but the sublime and wonderful now call forth all the
-springs of admiration.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p251b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Snowdon, from the Pass of Llyn Gwynant"
-title=
-"Snowdon, from the Pass of Llyn Gwynant"
- src="images/p251s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Snowdon again appears in all his splendor!&nbsp; Mountains
-that by comparison looked like hillocks rise round his regal
-waist, in groups numerous and picturesque.&nbsp; The deep black
-crags that form the western side of the valley make a magnificent
-fore-ground, and open here like nature&rsquo;s gates, to disclose
-the secrets of her bosom.</p>
-<p>The accompanying etching, gives an admirable idea of this
-imposing scene.&nbsp; About a mile from hence is a place called
-Gwrydd, where there is a small public house, with a sign
-signifying nothing.&nbsp; Here I resolved to &ldquo;rough
-it&rdquo; for a day, intending to fish the lakes, situated
-immediately above this spot, as nature&rsquo;s cisterns to water
-the pleasant valleys.</p>
-<p>The public house possesses a small parlour, carpetted, with
-half a dozen hair-bottomed chairs, and a mahogany table.&nbsp; A
-silent but most importunate monitor urged me to discover <a
-name="page252"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 252</span>what food
-this mountain chalet could produce.&nbsp; &ldquo;Eggs and
-bacon,&rdquo; was the expected reply to my question; and I soon
-had the pleasure of seeing this humble, but most grateful, fare
-placed before me, and in spite of the indifferent style of the
-cooking, I partook of it eagerly, having that incomparable sauce
-&ldquo;a good appetite.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>After I had repaired my broken rod, I ascended the mountain at
-the back of the house, and arrived at a large oval lake, in which
-the black and sterile rocks that form inaccessible ramparts on
-one side are reflected in its generally unruffled surface.&nbsp;
-The scene is wild and desolate, such as Despair herself would
-select for her abode.&nbsp; There are plenty of fish in this
-lake, but they are all small and extremely shy.&nbsp; I remained
-upon its margin until the shadows of night gave me warning to
-attend to my safety, and make the best of my way to my lodging,
-where I speedily ascended by a ladder-like staircase to a kind of
-cock-loft which was divided into two compartments, one for the
-accommodation of the family, man, wife, children and servants,
-the other fitted up for travellers.&nbsp; Sleep soon overtook me,
-and I should have continued <a name="page253"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 253</span>to sleep, I have no doubt, until
-breakfast time, had I not been awakened by a trifling
-accident.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;At the mid hour of night, when stars were
-weeping,&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>and ghosts of the mighty walk upon the hills, with a variety
-of other interesting objects that poets and nursery maids have
-described infinitely better than I can pretend to do, I was
-visited by a dream in which the ghost of a lobster popped his
-head out of a salad bowl, and demanded upon what authority I had
-presumed to make mince-meat of his body, when a loud crash roused
-me from my slumber, and I found myself with my knees, doubled up
-to my chin upon the floor; the bedstead having broken in the
-middle, and deposited me in this unenviable position.&nbsp; I
-need not say that for the remaining part of the night, I was
-wholly left to waking reveries, and uncontrollable desires for
-the blessings of daylight, which at last greeted my longing eyes,
-and hurrying on my clothes, I descended and walked forth to scent
-the morning air, in the direction of Llanberris.&nbsp; The mists
-rolled like troubled lakes in the valleys, and the black bleak
-rocks looked cheerless and forbidding.&nbsp; <a
-name="page254"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 254</span>The breeze
-was keen and piercing, and I started at a round pace to get
-myself warm by exercise.&nbsp; Having reached the summit of the
-roadway, I plunged at once into the pass of Llanberis, wild and
-gloomy.&nbsp; The precipices on my left looked truly terrible,
-like the shadow of death wrapped in a vapoury shroud.&nbsp; This
-pass is above four miles in length, and is a fine specimen of
-rugged grandeur.&nbsp; Not a single tree enlivens with its
-verdure this tremendous chasm.&nbsp; Range above range of rocks
-tower over the traveller upon either side, bearing various tints
-of black, brown, green and purple, according to the disposition
-of the sun&rsquo;s rays, and the distances of the ponderous
-masses.&nbsp; The rocks on both sides are nearly perpendicular;
-and, about two miles down the pass, the tourist will perceive
-some prodigious masses of rock upon his right hand that have
-fallen from the overhanging cliffs, which, when he pauses to look
-upon, will strike a feeling of terror into his heart, as he
-inwardly exclaims, &ldquo;could any one have witnessed the
-descent of this tremendous mass?&rdquo;&nbsp; The accompanying
-sketch gives a most accurate description.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p254b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Pass of Llanberis"
-title=
-"Pass of Llanberis"
- src="images/p254s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>I stood contemplating this scene, and suddenly a wild shout
-roused me from my reverie.</p>
-<p><a name="page255"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-255</span>&ldquo;Halloo, halloo!
-over&mdash;over&mdash;over!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>I turned my eyes up the mountain to my left, and there saw a
-shepherd, forming a speaking trumpet with his hands, and shouting
-to a dog (of what kind heaven knows, but in my opinion a thorough
-bred mongrel), and the fleet animal was dashing down the hill in
-the direction to where I stood.&nbsp; In an instant, he had
-passed me.&nbsp; It was a perfect nondescript! a thing that
-looked like the offspring of a French poodle and a Welsh goat;
-such a mass of hair, rags and wool, I never before beheld.&nbsp;
-I sat watching his progress, which was exceedingly rapid, and as
-I marked him, as he scrambled up the opposite craggs, I could not
-help admiring the instinct (or training) of the wretched looking
-animal.&nbsp; Sheep after sheep did it pursue, and drive down
-into the hollow from which they had strayed&mdash;some of them
-leading him a chase (of no enviable description) nearly to the
-summit of the barren mountain; but, with untired feet and
-unceasing bark, he tracked and outstripped them all, and, in
-conclusion, forced them into the bounds allotted for them at the
-bottom of the vale, where a scanty supply of grass served for
-them to browse upon.&nbsp; This duty done, the <a
-name="page256"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 256</span>faithful
-animal left them, and again crossing the valley, rushed by me and
-rejoined his master.</p>
-<p>I was about to pursue my journey, when I perceived a man
-fishing in the stream beneath.&nbsp; I descended to learn what
-sport he had met with, and found he had not been fortunate.&nbsp;
-I asked him if he remembered the time, when the huge rock, I have
-before noticed, fell from the brow of the precipice?</p>
-<p>&ldquo;It would be hard for me to do that, sir,&rdquo; said
-the fisherman, who laying his rod upon the ground, seemed
-desirous of saying something more upon the subject.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Is there any legend about it?&rdquo; I inquired.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Indeed, sir, there is,&rdquo; replied he; &ldquo;and,
-if you&rsquo;ll only stop till I put up my tackle, as I suppose
-you&rsquo;re going to Llanberis, I&rsquo;ll tell you as much as I
-know about the matter.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>I remarked, as he spoke, an expression of countenance that
-told me he thought tale telling might prove more profitable than
-trout fishing; but I readily agreed to his proposition, and in a
-few minutes we were trudging, side by side, along the road
-towards the village.</p>
-<p>I dare say, sir, you havn&rsquo;t come so far, without seeing
-<i>Cader Idris</i>, or the <i>Chair of Idris</i>, <a
-name="page257"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 257</span>as it is
-called, for Idris <i>Gawr</i> you must know, sir, was a famous
-giant of his day, but whether you have or not, he had a brother,
-sir, as I&rsquo;ve been told, <i>Dyn Ddu o&rsquo;r&rsquo;
-Craig</i>, which means the black man of the craig, who had a very
-fine castle upon the top of that precipice, at the foot of which
-you noticed those large pieces of rock.&nbsp; Well, sir, he never
-loved his brother, but he had a great liking for his niece; one
-of the prettiest girls, &rsquo;twas thought, ever seen in this
-part of the country; but she was to be married to a fine young
-hero, one of the knights of King Arthur&rsquo;s round table, who
-had done wonders for her sake, and made all the world confess
-<i>Merch Idris</i> was the most beautiful creature in the
-world.</p>
-<p>Well, sir, she was mortally afraid of her uncle, for he had a
-head as big as the top of Snowdon, and a forest of whiskers, and
-a beard that a man might take a day&rsquo;s shooting in, without
-tearing his coat with the branches; so that he never could be
-conquered, having so much game in him, ha! ha!
-ha!&mdash;You&rsquo;ll excuse me, sir, but what a comfortable
-thing it must be for a man to catch birds enough in his whiskers,
-to serve him for dinner!&mdash;Well, sir, it happened that Merch
-Idris was benighted <a name="page258"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 258</span>between Capel Curig and her
-father&rsquo;s castle, and, as she had only one attendant, and he
-was a poor weak coward, you may easily suppose she was for
-getting home as fast as possible; but a storm came on, and the
-night closed round them, and by some means or other they lost
-their way; for you know, sir, at that time there were no turnpike
-roads, as there are now, and they wandered about upon their
-merlins until nightfall, without knowing what part of the world
-they were in; when all of a sudden, the servant&rsquo;s beast,
-who went first, sank into a bog, up to his neck; and his rider
-began to roar for help so loudly, that the lady&rsquo;s animal
-took fright, set off at full speed, and never stopped until they
-came to the gates of a large castle.&nbsp; The night was so dark,
-she couldn&rsquo;t make out whether she had ever seen it before
-or not; however, she thought it would be better to blow the horn
-at the gate, and ask for shelter, than wander about the mountains
-all night, at the risk of breaking her neck, or being smothered
-in a quagmire.&nbsp; So she blew a blast (for at that time
-o&rsquo; day every great lady played upon some instrument or
-other, and this young lady surpassed all others upon the horn) so
-loud, that presently a warden called out from the top of a <a
-name="page259"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-259</span>tower.&nbsp; &ldquo;Who&rsquo;s there?&rdquo;&nbsp;
-Well, she mustered up courage enough to say, she was &ldquo;A
-lady in great distress.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Oho!&rdquo; says the warden, and off he set.&nbsp; Now
-the young lady scarcely knew how to take the salutation of the
-warden, whether it was meant friendly or otherwise.&nbsp; She had
-not pondered long upon those mysterious sounds, when the
-portcullis was raised, and the first living thing she saw was her
-tremendous uncle Dyn Ddu o&rsquo;r&rsquo; Craig! with a hundred
-torches behind him, ready to welcome her into his castle.&nbsp;
-You may be sure she was not much pleased at his presence, and
-regretted that she had not held out till the morning.&nbsp; But
-she had gone too far, and so she went in, and the iron grating
-was closed again, with a sound that struck terror into her pretty
-heart.&nbsp; Now it so happened that Sir Tristram (that was the
-name of her lover) was staying with her father, Idris Gawr; and
-they were both of them puzzled what to think when Merch Idris
-didn&rsquo;t reach home at the time they expected her.&nbsp; So
-the knight mounted his charger and gallopped off one way, and
-Idris took up his club and walked off the other, to search for
-her.&nbsp; All this time, the villain of an uncle was trying to
-wheedle the fair <a name="page260"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-260</span>maid, his niece, to marry him; and, when he found her
-deaf to his monstrous wishes, he flew into a mighty passion, and
-dragged her to the top of the precipice, by the hair of her head,
-and swore, in a most unchristian manner, that he would pitch her
-over, if she didn&rsquo;t consent.</p>
-<p>But just as he was about to put his threat into execution, he
-heard a horse at full gallop behind him; so he turned round just
-time enough to avoid the slashing sword of Sir Tristram, who made
-a determined cut at his head, that would have taken it clean off,
-if he hadn&rsquo;t have ducked.&nbsp; Well, he was fain to let go
-the lady to save himself from the fury of the knight, although he
-didn&rsquo;t think much of him.&nbsp; But he pulled up a tree,
-and he made a mighty blow at him, which the knight, by the
-blessing of providence, escaped; but the horse wasn&rsquo;t so
-fortunate, for it fell upon the poor creature&rsquo;s head, and
-smashed it to atoms.&nbsp; Well, the knight began to think the
-giant &ldquo;too much of a horse&rdquo; for him; and so he blew
-three notes upon his bugle, which was the appointed signal
-between him and Idris, and no sooner had he done so, than it was
-answered.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;And now,&rdquo; said Sir Tristram, &ldquo;my fine
-fellow, <a name="page261"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-261</span>you&rsquo;ll have your match in a minute; and sure
-enough, as he spoke, Dyn Ddu o&rsquo;r&rsquo; Craig saw his
-brother running at the rate of half a mile a stride.&nbsp; Well,
-he was greatly perplexed what to do; but he thought he had better
-get into the castle.&nbsp; So, he took Merch Idris under his left
-arm, and kept the knight off with the roots of the tree.&nbsp;
-However, he couldn&rsquo;t reach the gates in time.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;And now,&rdquo; says Idris to his brother, &ldquo;you
-ruffian,&rdquo; says he, &ldquo;what are you going to do with my
-daughter?&nbsp; Put her down, or I&rsquo;ll smash you, as I do
-this tower!&rdquo; and with that he hit a turret of the castle,
-and it flew about in all directions.&nbsp; &ldquo;Why
-then,&rdquo; says the other, &ldquo;I think I can do as great a
-feat as that.&rdquo;&nbsp; So he knocked the other turret on the
-head, and drove it clean down into the earth, so that not a brick
-of it was seen above ground!&nbsp; Well, with that the two giants
-began to bang each other with their cudgels, till they were black
-and blue, while Sir Tristram and the lady ran off to Cader Idris,
-as fast as they could, to get out of harm&rsquo;s way.</p>
-<p>Idris was the stronger giant of the two, and after three
-hours&rsquo; hard fighting, you wouldn&rsquo;t have known them
-for human beings; but Idris <a name="page262"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 262</span>having got Dyn with his back to the
-precipice, (where he threatened to throw the poor young lady
-over) hit him, with all his force, such a blow on the nose as
-made him stagger back and roll right over the edge of the
-craig.&nbsp; Well, he rolled and he rolled, till he got to the
-place where you were standing, and then he stopped; but he was
-quite dead.&nbsp; Then the famous Idris, seeing his brother lie
-like a huge bundle of rags, without motion, by the side of the
-stream, tore off a large piece from the top of the mountain, and
-throwing it with great force, it lit full upon the giant as he
-lay, while his conqueror roared out, in a voice that was heard at
-Carnaervon,&mdash;&ldquo;Good rest to you, brother Dyn!
-there&rsquo;s a nightcap for you!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>And ever since, that piece of rock has been called &ldquo;the
-Giant&rsquo;s Nightcap.&rdquo;</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>We soon obtained a view of the lakes that spread themselves
-before us&mdash;viz.: Lyn Peris and Lyn Padarn, with the romantic
-castle of Dolbadarn upon its rocky promontory.&nbsp; On issuing
-from a pass on our left, as my companion informed me, is a
-valuable copper mine, and a stream of water conveyed over the
-road, <a name="page263"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 263</span>by
-the aid of a wooden conduit, into the lake, which stream, he
-said, was for the use of the mine.</p>
-<p>At length, I reached the inn, called Victoria, and satisfying
-my companion with a gratuity which was more profitable than
-fishing, I entered and ordered breakfast, and procured an
-admittance to the castle of Dolbadarn.&nbsp; This ancient
-fortress is supposed to have been built by one Padarn Beisrydd ap
-Idwal, for the purpose of guarding the mountain pass which I had
-just quitted.&nbsp; A single round tower is all that remains of
-the castle, although traces are left of a much more extensive
-building.&nbsp; Here Owen Goch was imprisoned twenty years by his
-brother Llewellyn, the last Prince of Wales of the British line;
-and an ode is still extant, written by Howel-Voel, wherein his
-captivity is affectionately lamented.</p>
-<p>The view from the castle is truly sublime, comprising the two
-lakes, and the tremendous range of mountains, that seem to admit
-no outlet from the vale.&nbsp; But the most beautiful prospect is
-from the lake in front of the promontory on which the castle
-stands, and is reflected in the smooth waters beneath, while the
-majestic Snowdon towers in the distance.</p>
-<p>In the twelfth century, it is said there lived a celebrated
-beauty, whose father was the lord of <a name="page264"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 264</span>this castle, and of whom something
-like the following legend is related:</p>
-<h3>LEGEND OF DOLBADARN.</h3>
-<p>Margaret of Dolbadarn was one of the fairest damsels of whom
-Cambria ever boasted at court or tourney;&mdash;fair without
-vanity, highborn without ostentation, she exhibited the
-simplicity of nobility.</p>
-<p>Like others of her rank, she had many knights who owned her
-power, and panted to put lance in rest for the peerless Margaret;
-but in the number there was but one whom her eye followed through
-the glittering throng, and whose approach made her heart beat,
-and the mounting blood turn the delicate pink upon her cheek to
-crimson; and William of Montgomery was the happy knight.</p>
-<p>But her father had other views, and Hector of March-lyn-Mawr
-was proposed by him to be her husband&mdash;a youth of noble
-presence, but ignoble mind.&nbsp; His lands extended far and
-near, and skirted those of the Lord of Dolbadarn, who was, from
-that circumstance, doubly anxious to have the union
-consummated.</p>
-<p>He was, however, a tender guardian; he <a
-name="page265"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 265</span>loved his
-daughter, and was by her loved tenderly in return.&nbsp; Both
-knights had free access to Margaret, and both were anxious to
-deserve her favour.&nbsp; William was young, valiant, handsome,
-and honest; Hector was bold, gloomy, uncourtly and subtle.&nbsp;
-The Baron saw the decided preference his daughter gave to William
-of Montgomery, and grieved in his heart that it was not bestowed
-upon his more wealthy rival.&nbsp; He therefore resolved to put a
-proposal to his daughter, which was, that at the ensuing
-tournament to be given at his castle, the knights should prove
-their skill upon each other, and that he who was proclaimed the
-most accomplished master of his weapons, should receive her hand
-as the reward.&nbsp; For, though he was desirous of an alliance
-with the wealthy and powerful house of March Lyn Mawr, he was by
-no means insensible to the merits of Montgomery, whose name stood
-high in the lists of chivalry, and whose engaging manners won
-friends for him wherever he appeared.&nbsp; With a heavy heart
-did Margaret submit to the proposal of her father, although a
-feeling of confidence within her bosom told her the object of her
-attachment would prove the victor.&nbsp; Far different emotions
-agitated the hearts of the rivals, when they were informed of the
-Baron&rsquo;s determination.&nbsp; <a name="page266"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 266</span>William of Montgomery flung himself
-upon his knees before the old man, exclaiming with
-enthusiasm,</p>
-<p>&ldquo;By bath, and bed, and white chemise, <a
-name="citation266"></a><a href="#footnote266"
-class="citation">[266]</a> I will for ever be a true knight to
-thee for this especial favour, my good Lord of Dolbadarn!&nbsp;
-My lance and blade are yours at command, and,&rdquo; turning to
-his rival, &ldquo;Hector, if I bear thee not over thy
-charger&rsquo;s croup, why say my heart and hand shook with fear
-in the encounter.&mdash;But, if thou gainest the field,
-I&rsquo;ll give thee a grey palfrey for thy bride, to bear her to
-the church yonder, by thy side.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Agreed,&rdquo; said Hector; &ldquo;and noble Lord of
-Dolbadarn, if heaven desert me not in the hour of trial, I doubt
-not my success in winning thy daughter for my bride.&nbsp; Yet,
-should I fail, I promise thee, William of Montgomery, to give
-thee a steed, fleeter than any in thy stables, to bear the Lady
-Margaret as thy bride to church, nor will I bear thee any ill
-will shouldst thou prove conqueror, but drink a health to thee
-and thine, with a kind heart and true.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>At this time, there dwelt an old woman in the pass of
-Llanberis who was dreaded by all the country people, for she was
-accounted a witch; <a name="page267"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-267</span>and on the night of that same day the storm raged
-furiously, and the tall trees were cracking in the forest, when a
-horseman was seen galloping up the pass.&nbsp; He stopped at the
-witch&rsquo;s hut, and knocking loudly, he cried, &ldquo;Ho!
-mother witch! open the door! for thy devil&rsquo;s counsel is
-needed.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>The door was then opened, and the knight fastened his
-coal-black steed, dripping with rain and sweat, to a withered
-ash, and strode into the cabin.&nbsp; The fire reflected in his
-suit of steel made him appear a knight of flame; and, as he
-stamped his armed heels upon the floor, his armour rang with a
-muffled sound, like the death bell which tolls for the great, who
-die in the odour of sanctity: and the old hag laughed; her spirit
-was glad&mdash;for she knew that a deed of damning crime was
-shortly to be committed!</p>
-<p>He sat him down upon the three-legged stool, and said,
-&ldquo;Dame, I am ill at ease; for I love a maid whose heart I
-cannot win.&nbsp; Attend to me;&mdash;the gallant and high-minded
-Montgomery I must encounter for her in the lists; and, should he
-conquer, he will bear away the prize I am burning to possess;
-but, if the chance be mine, her own consent waits on her
-father&rsquo;s choice, whose wishes are for me.&nbsp; Doubts on
-the issue <a name="page268"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-268</span>urge me to seek thy aid.&nbsp; May my saint desert me
-if I would not rather shake hands with the foul fiend himself,
-than give a palfrey for my Margaret to ride to church upon, with
-any but myself.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>The witch laughed aloud, till he jumped from the stool, to see
-her old sides shake.&nbsp; &ldquo;Hector of March Lyn
-Mawr,&rdquo; quoth she, &ldquo;fear not that Margaret of
-Dolbadarn will ever become the bride of Montgomery; for shouldst
-thou be overcome in the lists, (and my power will not assist thee
-in the joust) call aloud &lsquo;Hell kite! hell kite!&rsquo; and
-presently shall a gallant palfrey come and raise thee from the
-ground, which being done, present it to thy foe, and thou shalt
-see the issue.&rdquo;&nbsp; He thanked her, dropped his purse
-upon the floor, mounted his steed, and vanished down the
-pass.</p>
-<p>There was a great assemblage of people at the castle of
-Dolbadarn, to witness the jousting; and knights from all quarters
-arrived, to break a lance with merry England&rsquo;s best, for
-glory and lady love.</p>
-<p>The tilting ground was enclosed by galleries erected for the
-ladies and nobles who wished to be spectators of the games.&nbsp;
-Upon the plain, at the end of the vale, fifty shields were hung
-up <a name="page269"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 269</span>by
-the knights who wished to signalize themselves.&nbsp; Three score
-of coursers, with a squire of honour, first entered the lists;
-then followed as many knights in jousting harness, led in silver
-chains, by the same number of ladies, richly clad, to the sound
-of clarions, and trumpets, and minstrelsy.&nbsp; When the ladies
-ascended the galleries, the squires dismounted, and the knights
-vaulted gaily into their saddles.&nbsp; The scaffoldings were
-hung with tapestry, and embroideries of gold and silver; and the
-scene was animated and costly in the extreme.&nbsp; Joy lighted
-up the eyes of all, save those of Margaret and her two
-lovers.&nbsp; She sat a lily among roses, pale and
-dejected.&nbsp; Sometimes, indeed, she lifted her dark eyes, and
-her snowy neck took for a moment the carnation&rsquo;s hue when
-she beheld the form of Montgomery, which yet faded as quickly as
-it came, and the Parian marble was left pure as before.</p>
-<p>Sir William walked, with a bold and lofty mien, along the line
-of shields, glancing at them with indifference, until he stopped
-before that which bore the arms of Hector, and then a smile of
-scorn played upon his lips, and he passed on.&nbsp; Hector marked
-that smile, and his cheeks flushed with anger.&nbsp; Great skill
-was <a name="page270"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-270</span>displayed by youthful knights decked in ladies&rsquo;
-favours.&nbsp; But, when the time arrived for the trial between
-Sir William of Montgomery and Hector of March Lyn Mawr, a hum of
-unusual interest arose among the gallant and beauteous
-auditory.&nbsp; From the opposed lists they passed each other, to
-determine the length of the course, with visors up.&nbsp; Sir
-William smiled gaily, but Hector wore a sad and mournful look, as
-though he feared or doubted the event of the trial.</p>
-<p>This ceremony of preparation being over, each took his post
-assigned, awaiting the signal for the charge.&nbsp; The Lady
-Margaret was pale as death, but none around her noticed it, they
-being all intent upon the two knights, who wore no outward
-favours, though one possessed an amulet which he had placed near
-his heart, beneath his vest.&nbsp; It was a white rose, which the
-fair Margaret had taken from her bosom, and given him an hour
-before in secret.</p>
-<p>The nominal prize for the victor was a jewelled sword, but the
-prize on which their hearts were set was a gem
-transcendant&mdash;the all-surpassing Margaret!</p>
-<p>And now the heralds sounded the charge, and the combatants met
-in mid career.&nbsp; The lance <a name="page271"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 271</span>of Hector was shivered upon the
-breast of Montgomery; but Sir William&rsquo;s struck full upon
-the visor of Hector, which made him bend his plume
-backwards.&nbsp; In the second course, Hector struck the coronal
-of Sir William&rsquo;s helmet a skilful stroke.&nbsp; Margaret
-fainted, and the ladies about her were busy in applying
-restoratives; but none attempted to remove her, being too much
-interested in the event of the joust.&nbsp; Montgomery cast a
-look of fire up to the spot, and then re-closed his visor for the
-third course.&nbsp; His opponent was resolved to make it a
-decisive one.&nbsp; Striking their spurs into their
-chargers&rsquo; sides, like arrows shot from opposing bows, they
-flew along.&nbsp; Then was a clash, a glittering flash! and the
-prize was won&mdash;for Hector of March Lyn Mawr lay, stunned and
-motionless, upon the ground, borne from his saddle by the lance
-of the victorious Sir William of Montgomery!</p>
-<p>Margaret, being restored to her senses, wept tears of joy, and
-spoke most sweet words, when her lover riding beneath the
-platform, demanded from her hand the honourable prize.</p>
-<p>But a wonder now appeared, which turned all eyes to the spot
-where Hector lay o&rsquo;erthrown; for a milk-white palfrey, of
-the most exquisite <a name="page272"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-272</span>form, had galloped into the lists, and drawn him from
-beneath his charger, which had fallen with him in the violent
-concussion.&nbsp; His helmet being loosed, he soon partially
-recovered, and seeing the beautiful animal frisking and
-curvetting, as though overjoyed at his escape, he led it by the
-mane to his rival, saying,</p>
-<p>&ldquo;William of Montgomery, I give to thee this
-palfrey.&nbsp; Present it to thy bride, to whom I now resign all
-claim, and only request that she will, for my sake, let my
-favourite bear her to the church, where your union is to be
-celebrated.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>It was a lovely thing to look upon, and the maiden promised to
-use no other on that happy day.</p>
-<p>The church of Llanberis was, at this time, about a mile from
-the castle of Dolbadarn, and the road, upon the bridal morning,
-resembled a mosaic pavement, when viewed from the mountain, it
-was so thickly studded with the fantastic dresses of the company,
-spectators, and gay flags and streamers waving in the air.&nbsp;
-The minstrels struck up their boldest notes of war, or delighted
-the ears and hearts of the female holiday makers with the soft
-songs of love.&nbsp; All was mirth, feasting, and jollity, while
-the air <a name="page273"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-273</span>rung with the combined names of Margaret of Dolbadarn
-and William of Montgomery.</p>
-<p>At length, the bridal procession issued forth from the castle
-gateway; the heralds led, the minstrels followed.&nbsp; Then came
-comely maidens with baskets of flowers, which they strewed around
-them, as they passed along.&nbsp; A body of armed knights
-followed and after them their esquires.&nbsp; Then appeared a
-troop of dancing girls, adorned with flowers, and clad in purest
-white; and a second band of minstrels struck their harps before
-the bridegroom and the happy bride, who rode gaily, side by
-side.&nbsp; She was dressed in rich attire; jewels glittered upon
-her robes and in her hair; and she rode upon the beautiful steed
-presented by March Lyn Mawr.&nbsp; The palfrey seemed proud of
-its lovely burthen, and gentle as the unwearied lamb.&nbsp; The
-bridegroom was clad in a light tunic and hose, and peaked boots;
-a many-coloured plume fluttered in his bonnet, and many sweet
-words did he whisper in Margaret&rsquo;s ear.&nbsp; As the
-assembled multitude shouted their gratulations, he bent even to
-his saddle bow, to thank them for their courtesy.&nbsp; Young
-Hector rode upon her left, and he laughed, too, and he bowed low;
-but in his laugh there was a fiendish sound, and in his <a
-name="page274"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 274</span>bow a
-scorn.&nbsp; Then followed the Lord of Dolbadarn, his long white
-locks waving in the summer breeze, surrounded by his relatives
-and friends.&nbsp; A troop of squires and pages followed, while
-all the retainers of his noble house brought up the rear.</p>
-<p>The bride and bridegroom passed along, and thousands cheered
-them on their way, with shouts and praises.&nbsp; The sun shone
-brightly above their heads, and joy was in their hearts.&nbsp; On
-they went, until a turning in the road brought them at once in
-sight of the church; but here the palfrey grew restive, and Sir
-William seized the bridle, thinking to control him.&nbsp; This
-answered but for a short distance; for they had no sooner reached
-the gate, over which was carved a cross, than, even while the
-groom held the stirrup for her to alight, away, away, away flew
-the palfrey, like a falcon, down the wind.&nbsp; The Lady
-Margaret was a good horsewoman, but she could not control the
-enchanted steed.&nbsp; She, however, kept her seat well, and
-hoped the unruly animal would soon relax his speed.</p>
-<p>A hundred horsemen galloped after her, the bridegroom taking
-the lead, who, being mounted on the swiftest horse, soon left the
-rest behind, <a name="page275"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-275</span>although unable yet to overtake the bride.&nbsp; The
-palfrey first dashed forward in the direction of Carnaervon, but
-suddenly turned off to the right, and galloped up the
-mountain.&nbsp; Hundreds of the peasantry were trampled under
-foot by the horses of the pursuers; some bruised, some crippled,
-and some killed, while the old Lord of Dolbadarn wrung his
-withered hands, and tore his grey locks, in frantic agony.&nbsp;
-He accused Hector as the author of all this misery, and vented
-his curses upon him, which the infuriated mob hearing, they
-seized upon the astonished knight, and almost in an instant
-tossed him upon their spikes into the air.&nbsp; He fell to the
-ground again, but not to rise; his plume, besmeared with blood,
-was scattered in every direction; his body, pierced with twenty
-wounds, spouted forth blood in fountains; blows fell upon his
-harness thick as hail; while a ferocious smith, with one stroke
-of an axe, severed the head from the body, and placing it upon a
-pike, bore the dripping trophy of vengeance above the applauding
-and infuriated wretches who had suffered in the tumult.</p>
-<p>Those who could govern their horses flew over the broken
-country in pursuit, while fleeter than a startled hind, the
-palfrey dashed along&mdash;<a name="page276"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 276</span>at times abating his swift flight,
-to give the laggards hope, who furiously spurred their chargers
-forward</p>
-<blockquote><p>After the knight,<br />
-And lady bright.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>But away, away flew the enchanted steed over moss and moor,
-o&rsquo;er hill and dale, through ford and forest; while of those
-who followed up the chase some were smothered, horse and rider,
-in the deep morass; some broke their necks in attempting to leap
-stone walls; some dangled from the boughs in woody dell, or
-perished in the river, dashed by the torrent against broken
-rocks; and they cursed, and died as they cursed.</p>
-<p>But Sir William of Montgomery pricked on his horse all
-foaming, and, as the strength of the noble animal began to fail,
-he cried aloud upon his patron saint to aid him.&nbsp; It was a
-charm of power, for it was a holy one; and the creature shook the
-foam from his mouth, and with recovered strength, dashed on in
-the pursuit.&nbsp; That charm, too, struck upon the heart of the
-palfrey, which began to fail him, and he tried in vain to keep
-the speed he had hitherto maintained.&nbsp; But the impetuous
-knight, seeing that he gained upon his lady love, furiously urged
-on <a name="page277"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 277</span>his
-charger, and with desperate rashness, burying his rowels in his
-side, exclaimed&mdash;&ldquo;Hell kite, speed
-on!&rdquo;&mdash;the very words the witch had given as a charm to
-Hector, and the name of the palfrey.</p>
-<p>No sooner was it pronounced, than his speed returned, and
-away, away the enchanted steed rushed on, as swiftly as
-before!&nbsp; The lady was, by this time, nearly senseless; her
-eyes were dimmed from the effect of the air, as she cut through
-it; and her heart trembled within her, like a fluttering
-dove.&nbsp; She cast an imploring look behind upon her lover, and
-raised one snowy arm beseechingly.&nbsp; He saw the action, and
-fancied he heard her voice, faintly calling upon him for
-aid.&nbsp; But it was to Him who governs all, she prayed; and
-again the wild horse felt the sacred power.&nbsp; But he had
-nearly reached the goal.&nbsp; With voice and spur the gallant
-knight pressed on up the rising ground, the summit of which,
-unknown to Margaret, or the knight, looked over the broad
-ocean;&mdash;it was the terrific Penman Maur.</p>
-<p>Nearer and nearer did the knight approach; his charger&rsquo;s
-foam was on the palfrey&rsquo;s flanks.&nbsp; Another bound, and
-he was at the side of Margaret&mdash;another, and there was one
-loud wild scream <a name="page278"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-278</span>that startled the eagles from their nests.&nbsp;
-Montgomery had clasped his lady round her waist, and borne her to
-his saddle bow.&nbsp; It was the movement of an
-instant&mdash;but, in that instant, steeds, knight, and lady
-plunged from the precipice&rsquo;s edge!&nbsp; The first fall of
-fifty feet crushed the palfrey and war-horse; and the foul
-spirit, quitting the enchanted steed, like a dark cormorant
-hovered over the group.</p>
-<p>The knight still clasped the maiden in his arms, whose shrieks
-were answered by the eagles&rsquo; screams; and the lovers were
-dashed from rock to rock, battered and bloody.&nbsp; The maiden
-fainted; but Sir William held her with the tenacious grasp of
-despair, with one arm to his breast, and with his right hand
-seized a dwarfish thorn&mdash;the only one that grew out of the
-rifted rock!&nbsp; But still there was no resting place for feet
-to stand upon, while the broken fragments of the cliff, disturbed
-by the weight of the fall, thundered downwards from above, and
-around them in every direction.&nbsp; One large mass struck the
-unhappy knight; the fragile thorn gave way, and the next moment
-beheld the loving pair, mutilated carcasses, floating upon the
-reckless waves!&nbsp; The eagles gorged upon their flesh, and not
-a vestige of the lost ones <a name="page279"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 279</span>was left.&nbsp; A white scarf which
-Margaret wore, and which streamed, like the banner of death, from
-the blasted thorn, alone remained to tell the fate of Sir William
-of Montgomery, and his blooming bride!</p>
-<h2><a name="page280"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-280</span>CHAPTER X.</h2>
-<p class="gutsumm">The church of Llanberis&mdash;Monumental
-inscriptions&mdash;Story of little John Closs&mdash;The
-Pellings&mdash;Capel Curig&mdash;Moel Siabod&mdash;Castle of
-Dolwydd&eacute;lan&mdash;Falls of Benclog&mdash;Llyn
-Ogwen&mdash;Llyn Idwal&mdash;Story of Idwal&mdash;Route to
-Llanrwst&mdash;Falls of Rhaiadr y Wennol&mdash;Bettws y
-Coed&mdash;The church&mdash;Monuments&mdash;Pont y Pair&mdash;Ogo
-ap Shenkin, a Legend&mdash;Glee, &ldquo;Shenkin was a noble
-fellow!&rdquo;</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Of a noble race was Shenkin!<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Thrum, thrum,
-thrum,<br />
-Of the line of Owen Tudor,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Thrum, thrum,
-thrum,<br />
-But her renown was fled and gone,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Thrum, thrum,
-thrum,<br />
-But her renown was fled and gone,<br />
-Since cruel love pursued her!&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: right">JOHN DRYDEN.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p><span class="smcap">Returning</span> to the Victoria, I
-partook of the refreshments provided, and then retracing my
-steps, I visited the little rustic church of Llanberis, which,
-for its simplicity, is well worthy of attention.&nbsp; Upon
-entering the doorway, there <a name="page281"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 281</span>is a small stone font placed upon a
-pedestal which is approached by three stone steps: it resembles a
-small washing tub, and its cover is much like a copper-lid.&nbsp;
-Advancing into the interior, the music loft is upon the left,
-under which is a dilapidated screen, opposite to the font.&nbsp;
-A doorway in the centre of the screen leads into the body of the
-church, where ancient oaken benches are ranged upon either side,
-and the pulpit and communion table are immediately in
-front.&nbsp; The old arched roof is held together by iron pins,
-which project on each side of the timbers, and the whole interior
-is whitewashed.&nbsp; The only pew in the church adjoins the
-communion table, both of which have suffered materially by the
-worm and time.&nbsp; The few monuments in this simple structure
-are upon small slate slabs, about the size of a
-school-boy&rsquo;s, and are hung up on the wooden beams.&nbsp;
-There are two of wood, with letters cut deeply into the small
-square, thus:</p>
-<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">Ina<br />
-Tan! hun!&nbsp; Ofe! mae<br />
-Gorwedd!&nbsp; Corph<br />
-ROE! ei oed! 60<br />
-Y Dudd!&nbsp; Y Cladd wud<br />
-E brill! 10! 1719.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p><a name="page282"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 282</span>The
-other, immediately facing the pulpit, is a black piece of board,
-ornamented with an undertaker&rsquo;s tablet of gilt copper, in
-the centre of which, upon black japan, is&mdash;</p>
-<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">Thos. Williams<br />
-Died Oct. 25<br />
-1836.<br />
-Aged 74.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>On leaving the church, there is a monumental slate slab on the
-left of the path, bearing the following inscription and
-verses:</p>
-<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">Underneath<br />
-Lieth the remains<br />
-Of John, the son of<br />
-Robert Closs, who was<br />
-Interred Decr. 1st.<br />
-1805, aged 7 years.</p>
-<p>Ar ben mynydd dydd-y-daith o&icirc; hoywder<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; A che dodd y
-maith<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Gadewais (gwelais goeg waith)<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Drueni&rsquo;r Byd ar unwaith.<br />
-<a name="page283"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 283</span>O erfel
-fu uchel a chos, i augau<br />
-Llyn ingol i&rsquo;mddangos<br />
-Mantell niwl mewn lywyll nos<br />
-A dychrymad dechreunos.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Upon returning to my inn at Gwrydd, I discovered that the
-landlady was sister to little John Closs; and from her I learnt
-the story of his melancholy fate.&nbsp; It is as follows:</p>
-<p>John was a pretty boy, about seven years of age, with fair
-hair and blue eyes, of a sweet-temper, adored by his parents, and
-loving them most affectionately in return.&nbsp; Indeed, little
-John Closs was the talk of the parish, and held up as a pattern
-of filial love and reverence to all the children in the
-village.&nbsp; His uncle had a small farm at Nant Bettwys; and
-John&rsquo;s father having sent him to reside there, for a few
-months, the fond mother would often cross the mountain to see her
-son and her sister, returning home in the evening of the same
-day.&nbsp; Little John got tired of living away from home, and
-one night, after his mother had quitted the cottage to return to
-Llanberis, he wept so bitterly, and prayed so earnestly to be
-permitted to follow her home, that the good people at Bettwys
-permitted him to try and overtake her, <a
-name="page284"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 284</span>which they
-considered he might easily do, as she had not left the house ten
-minutes before he started.</p>
-<p>The mother reached Llanberis in safety; but the poor boy lost
-his way in a snow storm on Moel Einion, and was not heard of for
-more than a week afterwards; when, one day, a man crossing the
-mountain, found the child stretched on the ground in a slumbering
-position, his face towards the earth, buried in his hands, and
-quite dead.</p>
-<p>On the evening when he lost his way, a shepherd, by the name
-of John Davis, said he had heard cries, like those of a child,
-upon the mountain, which in his ignorance he believed to be the
-voice of a fairy; and, terrified at the idea of encountering some
-supernatural being, he took to his heels in a contrary direction,
-with all the speed he could make, while the poor sufferer, cold
-and dying, vainly exerted himself in straining his innocent voice
-for succour.</p>
-<p>The inhabitants of this neighbourhood have, from time
-immemorial, held a strong belief in fairies; and there are many
-families now living that are said to have descended from this
-race, from their having intermarried, in the olden time, with
-their ancestors.&nbsp; They are called <a
-name="page285"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 285</span>Pellings,
-from a fairy who was named Penelope, and who, while dancing, one
-moonlight night, upon the shores of a lake called Cwellyn, was
-surprised and seized by a young farmer, who, in spite of her
-screams, bore her to his own house, called Yestrad, near Bettws,
-where he treated her with so much kindness, that she became
-contented to live with him; and they were married, upon the
-condition that he should never strike her with iron; for if he
-did, she would vanish, and he would never see her again.&nbsp; (I
-here thought of the tale told me by the old man in the valley of
-Drwstynrnt and was struck with the similarity they bore to each
-other.)&nbsp; Unfortunately, as the farmer and his wife went out
-into the field one day, to catch his horse, he accidentally hit
-her with the buckle of his bridle, and she was never seen
-after.&nbsp; Her descendants are called Pellings, as are all who
-imagine they derive their origin from this fabulous lady.&nbsp;
-Mr. William Williams, in his observations upon the Snowdon
-mountains, says&mdash;&ldquo;The best blood in my own veins is
-this fairy&rsquo;s.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>This belief, existing so strongly in the breasts of many
-people in this district, will account for the pusillanimity of
-the shepherd who fled from the cries of poor little John
-Closs.</p>
-<p><a name="page286"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 286</span>The
-following morning, I proceeded towards Capel Curig, but this road
-is very uninteresting.&nbsp; The tourist is, however, amply
-gratified, if it happen to be tolerably clear weather, on his
-arrival at an ancient stone bridge which crosses a stream that
-tumbles over some black rocks on the right, and winds its way in
-graceful variety, forming a pleasing spot to rest upon.&nbsp;
-Looking back towards Llanberis, the mountain scenery is very
-fine; and I here took my farewell look of Snowdon and
-Snowdonia.</p>
-<h3>CAPEL CURIG</h3>
-<p>Is in the parish of Llandegai.&nbsp; It derives its name from
-a man who was canonized, and founded a chapel in this mountainous
-region.&nbsp; He was the son of Llendden Llenddog, of
-Edinburgh.&nbsp; There are here two lakes, and some tolerable
-fishing may be had, if you take a boat; but from the banks it is
-quite useless to attempt it.&nbsp; From this spot, excursions may
-be made to Llanberis and</p>
-<h3>MOEL SIABOD,</h3>
-<p>From the summit of which a magnificent view is obtained of the
-mountains of Snowdonia, of <a name="page287"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 287</span>nine different lakes, and the sea
-beyond Carnaervon.&nbsp; The distance from the inn to the apex of
-this mountain does not exceed three miles and a half.</p>
-<h3>DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE,</h3>
-<p>Situated about five miles from Capel Curig, and on the
-eastward side of Moel Siabod, deserves notice.&nbsp; It is built
-upon a lofty rock, which on one side is inaccessible.&nbsp; There
-are two square towers, and a court in the middle.&nbsp; It is
-surrounded by mountains, and must in ancient days have been a
-fortress of considerable importance.&nbsp; It is said, Llewellyn
-the great was born in the castle; and this fact is sufficient to
-interest the stranger who is capable of appreciating and feeling
-reverence for a hero, who so long struggled with unwearied
-assiduity and unconquerable bravery, for his native land, and who
-fought and died in the sacred cause of liberty.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>Within four miles of Capel Curig is an oval lake, of about
-three miles in circumference, called <i>Llyn Ogwen</i>, which
-must by no means be overlooked.&nbsp; The scenery around is
-delightful, <a name="page288"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-288</span>and the waters are well stored with excellent trout of
-fine flavour, and surpassing all others in that respect, in the
-Carnaervonshire lakes.</p>
-<p>At the western end of this lake, are the falls of
-<i>Benglog</i>, (being three in number and upwards of one hundred
-feet in height) from whence the waters take their course through
-Beavers&rsquo; Hollow, a wild and romantic glen, rocky and
-barren.</p>
-<p>Powel, in his History of North Wales, says, &ldquo;In Tevi,
-above all the rivers in Wales, were, in Giraldus&rsquo;s time, a
-great number of castels, which may be Englished beavers, and are
-called in Welsh avane, which name onlie remaineth in Wales at
-this daie, but what it is, very few can tell.&nbsp; It is a beast
-not much unlike an otter, but that it is bigger, all hearie
-saving the taile, which is like a fishe taile as broad as a
-man&rsquo;s hand.&nbsp; This beast useth as well the water as the
-land; and hath a voice, sharp teeth, and biteth cruellie till he
-perceives the bones cracke * * * * He that will learn what strong
-nests they make, which Giraldus calleth castells, which they
-build upon the face of the water with great bowes, which they cut
-with their teeth, and how some lie upon their backs holding the
-wood with their fore feet, which the other draweth <a
-name="page289"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 289</span>with a
-crosse stick, the which he holdeth in his mouth, to the
-water&rsquo;s side, and other particularities of their natures,
-let him read Giraldus in his Topographie of Wales.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>In this stream are found the fresh water muscle, which the
-country people call <i>cregyn deluw</i>, i.e. <i>shells of the
-deluge</i>, supposed to have been brought into it by Noah&rsquo;s
-flood.</p>
-<p>On the left of the lake are the <i>Crags of Trifaen</i>; huge
-shattered ridges, which overhang the pool and keep it in
-continual shadow, while the sides of Braich-ddu slope gradually
-to the lake&rsquo;s margin.&nbsp; The Franc&ocirc;n mountains, in
-the distance, are astonishingly grand, and altogether this lake
-scene may be considered the finest in Caernarvonshire.</p>
-<p>A gentleman in the winter of 1831, was driving along the road
-which skirts the borders of the lake, when upwards of a thousand
-tons of rock fell from the heights of Benclog, a little below the
-falls into Nant Franc&ocirc;n, a short time after he had passed
-them, and he beheld one portion roll into the valley and river,
-while the other rested upon the road he had just travelled,
-rendering it impossible for any carriage to proceed by that
-route, until the obstruction was removed.</p>
-<p><a name="page290"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 290</span>A
-mile distant from Llyn Ogwen is another lake, well worthy of
-being visited, which lies in a deep hollow of the Glyder
-mountains called</p>
-<h3>LLYN IDWAL,</h3>
-<p>where the gloomy horror of the scenery is most appalling;
-particularly the terrific chasm of <i>Twll Ddu</i>, or the Black
-Cleft.&nbsp; This spot derived its name from the following crime,
-which was perpetrated here.</p>
-<p>Prince Owain Gwynedd, who reigned in the twelfth century, had
-a favourite called <i>Nefydd Hardd</i>, to whose care he
-intrusted his son <i>Idwal</i>, and who betraying his trust,
-commanded his son <i>Dunawt</i> to destroy the young prince, a
-crime which he too faithfully obeyed, perpetrating the cruel deed
-at this place.&nbsp; But, being discovered, Nefydd, and his
-posterity, were degraded from the rank of nobles to bondsmen, and
-Rhun, the son of Dunawt, who again became possessed of the
-property of his ancestors, granted the ground upon which the
-church of Llanrwst now stands, as an expiatory gift for the foul
-crime imputed to his father.&nbsp; The grave of Idwal is still
-pointed out by the inhabitants, close to the lake.</p>
-<p>The scenery around is well calculated to inspire <a
-name="page291"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 291</span>fear in the
-timid, as being adapted to the committal of atrocity of any
-kind.&nbsp; Bleak, black, desolate and stern, it thrills the
-beholder with an indescribable sensation of terror.</p>
-<p>The lake is well stored with fish, of a darker colour than
-those in the Ogwen, and of a less delicate flavour.&nbsp; These
-lakes are in the parish of Llan Tegai, so called from its patron
-saint <i>Tegai</i>, the son of <i>Ithol Hael</i>, a nobleman of
-Amorica, brother to Credifael and Flewin, who built Penmynydd and
-Llanflewin, in Anglesea, about the year 636.&nbsp; <i>See
-Roland&rsquo;s Mona Antiqua Rest</i>. <i>p.</i> 189.</p>
-<p>After a delightful day&rsquo;s ramble amongst this wild and
-sublime scenery, I returned to the inn at Capel Curig, and on the
-following morning took the road to Llanrwst, which in a short
-time becomes particularly interesting.&nbsp; The dark and
-comfortless sterility is exchanged for a delightful valley, with
-luxuriant woods, which stretch to the summit of the hills upon
-either side; and near the two mile stone is one of the most
-picturesque cottages imaginable, placed on the side of a hill
-above the bridge, which crosses the river Llugwy, and gives
-additional beauty to the romantic dell.&nbsp; Half a mile beyond
-is an observatory, which stands upon the highest point <a
-name="page292"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 292</span>of a
-towering cliff, a portion of whose summit is clothed with purple
-heath, and the remainder presents a face of grey barren rock,
-while beneath a forest of rich foliage creeps from its base far
-up the craggy sides.</p>
-<p>Within a mile of this place are the celebrated waterfalls,
-called</p>
-<h3>RHAIADR Y WENNOL,</h3>
-<p>i.e. the Spout of the Swallow&mdash;a cataract of about sixty
-feet in width.&nbsp; The river, at the top of the first fall,
-flows in an unbroken sheet, but soon becomes dispersed in various
-streams that dash and struggle through the impending masses of
-rock, charming the ear with their complicated roar.&nbsp; At the
-second fall, it rushes in a collected volume into the boiling
-vortex, from whence, at the third, it is dispersed in
-spray.&nbsp; A small wicket gate by the road side, leads to a
-footpath through the grounds, to the falls, where the visitor
-cannot fail to find an adequate reward for his digression.&nbsp;
-The old oak trees that overhang the ravine are beautifully
-grouped.&nbsp; On one side, a large rock rises perpendicularly
-nearly 500 feet, and the earth is clothed with velvet moss and
-decked with wild flowers.&nbsp; Fancy <a name="page293"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 293</span>would picture just such a retreat,
-for a wandering sylph! while the rays of light, darting through
-the greenwoods, remind us of the flittings of Sir John
-Wynne&rsquo;s ghost, which was said to haunt this glen for many
-years, but is now laid at rest in the depths of the lower
-fall.&nbsp; Journeying onward, I reached the village of</p>
-<h3>BETTWS Y COED,</h3>
-<p>which being translated is the Station in the Wood; and a most
-delightful station it is.&nbsp; The Shrewsbury and Holyhead road
-run through it, and the junction of the Llugwy and the Conway
-rivers is at no great distance.&nbsp; The church is a venerable
-structure, and contains an old monument, erected to the memory of
-Griffith, the son of David G&ocirc;ch, who was a natural son of
-David, the brother of Llywellyn, the last Prince of Wales.&nbsp;
-He died in the fourteenth century, and a stone statue of him is
-in a recess on the north side of the church, with this
-inscription: &ldquo;Hic jacet Gruffydd ap Davyd G&ocirc;ch, agnus
-Dei misere mei.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>At about a mile from Bettws is an iron bridge of one arch,
-which carries the Holyhead road over the river Conway.&nbsp; Its
-span is 105 feet, <a name="page294"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-294</span>and it is called the Waterloo Bridge, from its having
-been erected in the year that tremendous battle was fought.&nbsp;
-But the principal object is,</p>
-<h3>PONT-Y-PAIR,</h3>
-<p>the Bridge of the Caldron.&nbsp; It has four arches, and the
-natural rock supplies it with piers, that seem to defy the
-efforts of time or the fury of the waters.&nbsp; Immediately
-above the bridge is the fall and salmon leap.&nbsp; The river
-rolls and plunges into a deep reservoir below.&nbsp; The grandeur
-of the scene during the floods, I was informed, surpasses
-imagination, and, unfortunately for me, the heat of the sun had
-dried them up, when I visited this celebrated spot.</p>
-<p>For this bridge the inhabitants are indebted to one Howell, a
-mason, who resided at Penllyn in the year 1468; and, having
-occasion to attend the assizes at Conway, he was unexpectedly
-prevented from passing the Lleder by the fury of the flood.&nbsp;
-That a similar disappointment might not occur to others, he
-erected a wooden bridge across that river, and trusted to the
-generosity of travellers to remunerate him.&nbsp; The success of
-this attempt encouraged him to erect the bridge <a
-name="page295"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 295</span>at Bettws y
-Coed, which is now called Pont y Pair, but he died before it was
-completed.</p>
-<p>Upon the right of this bridge is Carrey y Gwalch, or the Rock
-of the Falcon, well clothed with trees, through which the bald
-cliffs peep, like a body of sharp shooters from a brush wood,
-anxious to escape detection.&nbsp; In this rock is a recess
-called the cave of Shenkin, a celebrated outlaw, who found
-shelter here from the unremitting efforts of justice during the
-reign of Edward IV.</p>
-<p>The entrance to this spot is blocked up by a large piece of
-rock, and the following legend is seriously related by the old
-women of the neighbourhood.</p>
-<h3>OGO AP SHENKIN.</h3>
-<p>In the reign of our seventh Henry, when the civil wars which
-desolated the hearths of rich and poor, ceased to afflict the
-nation, and peace and plenty once more spread their smiling
-influence throughout the land, there lived near this village a
-man, called Jordan ap Jordan, a wood-cutter and goatherd, whose
-time was occupied between watching his goats upon the <a
-name="page296"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 296</span>mountains,
-and felling trees in the forest.&nbsp; He was a short square
-built man, with a squint eye and a blue nose.&nbsp; He was
-thought to be half distracted between the desires of a miser, and
-the vices of a drunkard; for, whenever one passion predominated,
-he raved like a bedlamite at the other, and he who shunned him in
-the morning for his sordid qualities would fairly take to his
-heels at full speed, to avoid him in the evening when he was in
-his cups.</p>
-<p>Jordan was, therefore, generally shunned by his neighbours,
-and would often repair to the bridge of the Caldron, to meditate
-upon future wealth, or to roar out his bacchanalian stanzas to
-his unwearied companion the waterfall.&nbsp; He was fond of a
-thundering accompaniment, and here he was gratified to his
-heart&rsquo;s fondest wish.&nbsp; The superstitious peasantry
-were often alarmed, as they passed the bridge after twilight, to
-their several homes, to hear his unearthly raving mingled with
-the sound of the cataracts, and to see his ungainly form perched
-upon the parapet of the bridge, which they often mistook for an
-evil spirit.&nbsp; One morning, before daybreak, as he was
-gradually recovering from his evening&rsquo;s excess, the
-grasping fiend of avarice seized upon his heart, as was often the
-case, when he reflected <a name="page297"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 297</span>on his extravagance on the foregoing
-night; and, after venting many bitter curses upon all earthly
-spirits (alias drams) prayed most devoutly to all spirits,
-celestial, for a plentiful accession of worldly pelf, to add to
-his store, which he had concealed in the hollow of a certain
-tree; when &ldquo;a still small voice,&rdquo; which even the roar
-of the torrent permitted him to hear, whispered to him that Ogo
-ap Shenkin might contain &ldquo;something worth seeking
-for.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>This cave, as I have before mentioned, was the retreat of the
-celebrated Shenkin; and, although the bold outlaw had long ceased
-to commit his depredations, the place of his resort was held in
-dread by the superstitious peasantry, who firmly believed that
-his spirit was to be seen every night, prowling about the gap, to
-terrify and torment all poor souls who ventured to wander near
-this haunted ground.</p>
-<p>The woodman pricked up his ears at the sound of the voice,
-and, after turning the thing over and over again in his mind, and
-weighing the pros and cons in the scale of his bewildered
-judgment, he determined to venture on the experiment.&nbsp;
-&ldquo;For,&rdquo; thought he, &ldquo;though ghosts walk by
-night, I never heard of their venturing out by day;&rdquo; and
-hastening home he replenished his <a name="page298"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 298</span>bottle, which he thought it prudent
-to take with him in case of frights and sights, which an
-application to it might enable him to endure with fortitude.</p>
-<p>It was yet grey morning, and the mist still lay in the valley,
-as Jordan ap Jordan advanced his <i>blue light</i> in the
-direction of Shenkin&rsquo;s cave; one eye peering in the
-direction of the hollow, and the other traversing the craggy
-mountain tops and down the hills&rsquo; sides, like a vagrant
-scout watching the enemy&rsquo;s motions or looking out for
-squalls.</p>
-<p>The heavy fog was now fast rising on the mountain&rsquo;s
-side, obscuring the mouth of the cave so completely that Jordan
-was very often compelled to apply his mouth to the flask, in
-order to rectify the effects of the unwholesome dew, which he
-inhaled by gallons.</p>
-<p>Thicker and thicker came on the fog, and lighter and lighter
-became the flask; until what with one thing, and the other, he
-scarce knew whether his track lay to the right, or to the left;
-and, but for the consolation of the spirit, he would infallibly
-have been <i>routed by terror</i>; but as it was, he only
-acknowledged to being <i>overcome with liquor</i>, and his
-reluctance to confess so much was only conquered on finding
-himself <a name="page299"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-299</span>stretched half way into the cave, without the power of
-resuming his standing position.&nbsp; While he lay thus sprawling
-and unable to rise, gazing with &ldquo;lack lustre eye&rdquo;
-into the gloomy recess, he fancied he beheld some lights
-flickering at a distance, dancing up and down, and running to and
-fro!&nbsp; His hair stood on end with fright, his eyes almost
-started from his head with curiosity, and the liquor evaporating,
-as his terror became stronger, he miraculously recovered the use
-of his legs, which he instantly endeavoured to make use of in
-escaping from the cavern.&nbsp; But, to his utter consternation,
-he discovered that the entrance was closed up, and an appalling
-noise of a long drawn, ba-a-a-a-a! made him look once more in the
-direction of the lights.</p>
-<p>He now fancied he saw only two, but they grew larger and
-larger, till they resembled two moons.&nbsp; And presently he
-heard a buzzing sound, as if a thousand bees were about his ears;
-and on a sudden the cave became lighted up with a thousand
-torches, for it seemed to have expanded to an incredible
-magnitude; and, in the centre, upon a huge oaken chest well bound
-with iron clasps, stood a goat of prodigious size, with a beard
-which seemed to be of <a name="page300"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 300</span>ten times the magnitude commonly
-given by artists to Aaron the high priest.&nbsp; Full, shaggy,
-and venerable did it appear.&nbsp; His horns, like mighty
-corkscrews, issued from his forehead, terminating in two
-portentous points; and his eyes,&mdash;for they were his eyes,
-which Jordan&rsquo;s disconcerted vision had mistaken for
-moons&mdash;were fixed upon a clasped book, the leaves of which
-he was deliberately turning over with his right fore hoof, as if
-he cared no more for Jordan ap Jordan&rsquo;s proximity, than if
-he had been one of his own species.</p>
-<p>The woodman being by this time perfectly sober, felt his
-desire of wealth grow stronger than fear; and he could not help
-thinking that the oaken chest contained the treasure he so much
-coveted.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;You&rsquo;re perfectly right,&rdquo; said the goat,
-answering to the thought of Jordan, without taking his eyes off
-the book he was perusing; &ldquo;and you shall see the
-treasure.&rdquo;&nbsp; Then touching a spring with his fore paw,
-the side of the chest flew open, and Jordan saw more gold than he
-ever thought the world contained, and every piece stamped with
-the king&rsquo;s head.&nbsp; Jordan, with his natural impulse,
-rushed forward to grasp some of the shining coin! but, the goat
-<a name="page301"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-301</span>presented his horns to him, saying, &ldquo;If you touch
-any of this coin before it is properly prepared, instant death
-will be your fate,&rdquo; and then, with a loud ba-a-a-a-a, he
-summoned a number of grave elders about him, to whom he gave
-suitable directions, and these presently kindled some dry wood
-upon a slab of rock, and put an iron pot with a spout to it over
-the flames, while Jordan wondered to see them use their cloven
-feet so cleverly in adjusting matters as occasion required.&nbsp;
-These preparations being completed, they took from the chest
-large bags full of gold, and emptied them into the iron pot, one
-after the other, until it was completely full; and then commenced
-dancing round it on their hinder legs, ba-a-a-a-ing most
-inharmoniously.&nbsp; This ceremony continued some time, when lo!
-the coin being fusible, melted, and became a burning liquid.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Now,&rdquo; said the monster goat to Jordan-ap-Jordan,
-&ldquo;I will make thee a man of gold!&nbsp; Thou dost thirst for
-gold and shalt have more than thou desirest.&nbsp; Swallow thou
-this pot of boiling metal, and fear not.&nbsp; The heat will have
-no effect upon thee&mdash;so drink&mdash;drink and be
-wealthy!&rdquo;</p>
-<p><a name="page302"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-302</span>Jordan looked upon the molten gold as it sparkled and
-became agitated in the vessel, and, stooping to take a closer
-inspection, was surprised to find it destitute of heat, though
-still retaining its liquidity!&nbsp; Having ascertained this
-fact, he made no hesitation in obeying the goat&rsquo;s commands,
-and took huge draughts of the precious fluid, which, like warm
-jelly, flowed smoothly and agreeably into his capacious
-maw.&nbsp; No sooner had he drained the measure, than the
-venerable goat leaped from the chest, and presenting his terrific
-horns, cried, &ldquo;Now Jordan, fly for your life;&rdquo; at the
-same time, making a charge upon his rear, which completely
-ejected him from the cavern at full speed.&nbsp; No sooner had he
-passed the cavern&rsquo;s mouth, than he tumbled with violence to
-the ground; and at the same moment a huge mass of rock fell from
-the summit of the hill, and effectually blocked up the entrance
-of Ogo ap Shenkin.</p>
-<p>It was mid-day when Jordan quitted the cave, and the sun shone
-in all its brilliant beauty.&nbsp; Filled with wealth and wonder,
-he hastened towards his cottage, calculating all the way the
-prodigious extent of his riches.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I must take care of myself now,&rdquo; said Jordan, <a
-name="page303"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 303</span>&ldquo;for,
-if by any chance, my secret should be discovered, I shall share
-the fate of the goose that laid the golden eggs.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>This reflection made him uneasy; and as he was frequently
-hailed, in sport or ridicule, by the shepherd lads from the
-mountains, he quickened his speed to avoid observation.</p>
-<p>For ten years after this, Jordan was never seen except at
-night, and then it was only for a moment and upon the
-bridge.&nbsp; He was like a phantom there&mdash;and gone in an
-instant.&nbsp; No one saw him in his former occupation; his
-cottage was deserted, and he lived, no one knew where.</p>
-<p>The gradual decay of his wardrobe was noticed, as at various
-times he was recognised by those to whom he was formerly known;
-until, at length, he was entirely destitute of every article of
-clothing; and a village curate was, one bleak and wintry night,
-roused from his bed, by the moaning of some human creature,
-apparently at the threshold of his door.&nbsp; He let him in,
-pale, emaciated, naked, and ghost like.&nbsp; He placed him,
-shivering, on his bed; and the dying creature glared wildly about
-the apartment, as he exclaimed in terror,</p>
-<p><a name="page304"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-304</span>&ldquo;Take care they don&rsquo;t steal me.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Who?&rdquo; inquired the good curate.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;The world&mdash;all the world, are looking for
-me,&rdquo; replied the wretch; &ldquo;but I shall escape them
-yet.&nbsp; You are a good man; you would not rob the dead, would
-you?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Heaven forbid,&rdquo; he replied.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Ay, ay, you fear Heaven&mdash;you fear its curses here,
-and its vengeance hereafter.&nbsp; I think I may trust you, as I
-have not above an hour to live.&nbsp; Look at me! don&rsquo;t you
-see what they hunt me for?&nbsp; I&rsquo;m all gold!&mdash;a man
-of gold!&mdash;robbers seek for me, to buy them
-food!&mdash;Spendthrifts hunt after me, to pay their
-debts!&mdash;Women grasp at me, to purchase jewels!&mdash;And
-kings lay snares for me, to gorge and fatten!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>He then related his wonderful adventure in Ogo ap Shenkin;
-and, as he concluded it, exclaimed,</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Bury me safely.&nbsp; You make take my little finger,
-that will pay all expenses, but don&rsquo;t break up my
-body&mdash;to&mdash;to&mdash;to&mdash;&rdquo; and the
-hypochondriac expired. <a name="citation304"></a><a
-href="#footnote304" class="citation">[304]</a></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>There is no doubt that the vision of the goat <a
-name="page305"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 305</span>and the
-chest of wealth, was a dream after one of Jordan&rsquo;s drunken
-bouts, which produced so powerful an impression upon his mind,
-that it banished the few wits intoxication had left him.</p>
-<h2><a name="page306"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-306</span>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
-<p class="gutsumm">A Mistake&mdash;Road to Llanrwst&mdash;Gwydir
-Castle&mdash;Llanrwst Shaking Bridge&mdash;Inn&mdash;The
-Theatre&mdash;Town Hall&mdash;Free Schools&mdash;Alms
-Houses&mdash;Rhaiadr y Parc Mawr&mdash;Llynn
-Giwionydd&mdash;Taliesin&mdash;Trefriw&mdash;Slate
-Quarries&mdash;Conway&mdash;The Suspension Bridge&mdash;The
-Castle&mdash;Local Customs&mdash;A Phrenologist&mdash;Excursion
-to the Ormes&rsquo; Head&mdash;The Smuggler&mdash;The Bump of
-<i>Order</i>.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;On a rock whose haughty brow<br />
-Frowned o&rsquo;er old Conway&rsquo;s foaming flood,<br />
-Rob&rsquo;d in a sable garb of woe,<br />
-With haggard eye, the poet stood.&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: right">GRAY.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>As I stood taking a farewell look of this beautiful village,
-with my knapsack on my back, and fishing rod in my hand, I was
-suddenly roused from my reverie, by a slap on the shoulder, and,
-on turning my head, I perceived an old woman, who held out to me
-some half dozen, much soiled, silver tea spoons, addressing me at
-the same time in Welsh: she might as well <a
-name="page307"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 307</span>have spoken
-to me in the language of the ancient Chaldees.&nbsp; However, I
-took the spoons in my hands, and, after turning them over and
-over for some time, and endeavouring to elicit her meaning
-without success, I shook my head as gravely as my Lord Burleigh
-is made to do, in Sheridan&rsquo;s entertainment of the Critic,
-and returned them to their venerable owner.&nbsp; Disappointment
-made the wrinkles of her aged forehead deeper than usual, and I
-was turning to resume my journey, when a flash of intelligence
-crossed her smoke-dried visage, and, making a sign for me to
-stop, she ran into her cottage, and presently returned, her face
-glowing like a hot coal, with an old umbrella in her hand, which
-she displayed fantastically in every way she thought likely to
-attract my notice, making use of sundry pantomimic gestures, none
-of which could I understand; and I began to think myself in
-company with some unhappy creature escaped from Bedlam.&nbsp; I
-again attempted to proceed with more earnestness than before,
-when, to my astonishment, a pair of grey, much worn,
-inexpressibles were held up to my eyes, while the gesticulations
-of the old woman became stronger and stronger, and I at length
-discovered, that I had been mistaken for <a
-name="page308"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 308</span>a
-travelling pedlar by the old beldam, who wished to exchange the
-articles she produced for something with which she imagined my
-knapsack was furnished!</p>
-<p>Within half a mile from the town of Llanrwst is</p>
-<h3>GWYDIR CASTLE,</h3>
-<p>the property of Lord Willoughby d&rsquo;Eresby, a family
-mansion of no very attractive appearance.&nbsp; It is situated on
-the right of the road, which winds between it and a lofty
-wood-clad precipice, called Carreg-y-Gwalch, or the Rock of the
-Falcon.&nbsp; It was built by John Wynne ab Meredydd, in 1555,
-and has lately undergone some alteration.&nbsp; The breakfast
-parlour contains a curious carving of the arms of the Gwydir
-family, supported by Julius C&aelig;sar and Augustus; the former
-holding his commentaries in one hand, and his sword in the other;
-the latter, his sword only.&nbsp; The dining-room has some
-specimens of carving, that are worthy of observation; but
-throughout the mansion there is very little of what belonged to
-it originally.&nbsp; The chairs, panelling, and even tables,
-being coloured for the purpose of giving <a
-name="page309"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 309</span>the
-apartments the appearance of antique splendour, which, until
-lately, they wanted.</p>
-<p>The drawing-room is spacious and lofty, and is lighted by a
-double row of windows, which gives it a heavy look: this unusual
-arrangement was caused by the removal of the dormitory, to give
-height to this room.&nbsp; Over the fire place is a finely
-executed carving of Julius C&aelig;sar in oak.&nbsp; At the N.W.
-end of the room, a piece of tapestry represents a vintage, and at
-the S.E. another specimen of needlework commemorates the landing
-of Charles V at Grenada.</p>
-<p>The coronation chair of George II is shewn in this apartment,
-and the footstool used by Queen Caroline on her trial at
-Westminster Hall.&nbsp; There is a centre table, very richly
-ornamented with carved work; and another, which in shape exactly
-resembles the slab and pedestal of a tombstone, so that the
-visitor, naturally enough walks up to it, expecting to see the
-customary, &ldquo;Hic jacet&rdquo; etc.</p>
-<p>The cradle of Sir Richard Wynne, bearing the date 1634,
-completes the list of curiosities contained in this room.</p>
-<p>The garden, which is extensive, contains some valuable plants
-and shrubs, and the terrace is a pleasant promenade, sloping from
-which are <a name="page310"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-310</span>beds of exceedingly beautiful flowers, of various
-classes and descriptions.&nbsp; After satisfying the housekeeper
-with a trifling gratuity, I proceeded to Llanrwst, but halted
-upon the bridge to take a view of the Conway (over which
-beautiful river its arches expand), and the town to which it
-leads.&nbsp; I was here accosted by an old man, who asked me,
-&ldquo;if I should like to feel the bridge shake?&rdquo;&nbsp; As
-I answered in the affirmative, he desired me to place my back
-against the side over the centre arch, and striking the opposite
-parapet rather heavily with his own, a tremulous motion was
-distinctly felt; on this account, it is called the Shaking
-Bridge.&nbsp; It was built in 1636, from a plan of the celebrated
-Inigo Jones, and cost &pound;1000, which was defrayed by the
-counties of Denbighshire and Caenarvonshire, which it unites.</p>
-<h3>LLANRWST</h3>
-<p>is built upon the Denbighshire side of the river.&nbsp; The
-Three Eagles is the most commodious inn in the town; and, being
-rather fatigued, I threw my limbs upon a sofa, and resigned
-myself to the drowsy god, first taking especial care to order a
-substantial repast to be in readiness for <a
-name="page311"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 311</span>me on my
-return from the land of Nod.&nbsp; My last waking recollection
-was the words of Mr. Lover&rsquo;s favourite song,</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;There&rsquo;s no use at all in my going to
-bed,<br />
-For it&rsquo;s dhrames and not sleep, that comes into my
-head.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Dreams, however, did not picture my slumbers, and I awoke to
-the unrivalled delight of a weary and hungry traveller&mdash;an
-excellent hot dinner.&nbsp; While the waiter cleared the table,
-and put on the desert, I took a glance from the windows at the
-market-place and town-hall; against the latter were pasted sundry
-bills, some of which bore, I thought, a strong resemblance to the
-dramatic announcements.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;What bills are those?&rdquo; said I to the waiter, as
-he placed my pint of port before me.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Play bills, sir.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;What, have you a theatre here?&rdquo; said I, opening
-my eyes with astonishment.</p>
-<p>The man stared, appeared confused and stammered, and,
-supposing me shocked at the immoral announcement, proceeded to
-assure me, that although the players were tolerated, they had
-very little patronage, &ldquo;Indeed, sir,&rdquo; continued he,
-&ldquo;such vagabonds do a great deal of <a
-name="page312"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 312</span>harm to
-business; we feel it, sir.&nbsp; Now to-night there is a bespeak,
-which will do us a serious injury, for we have no less than six
-visitors who are going!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;A bespeak, eh! and who bespoke the play?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Oh, sir, &rsquo;tis Mr. &mdash;.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Mr. &mdash;!&rdquo; I exclaimed, with a sort of
-inquiring glance, which occasioned the waiter to look more
-ridiculous than ever.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Do you mean Mr. &mdash;, of Belmont?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Yes, sir, that&rsquo;s the gentleman.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>No sooner had I received this information, than filling my
-glass, &ldquo;His honored health!&rdquo; I cried, adding the
-words of the bard,</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;May never-fading laurels flourish round
-him,<br />
-And consecrate his name ev&rsquo;n to Time&rsquo;s
-end!&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;Bring me a bill of the play,&rdquo; said I.&nbsp; The
-man withdrew with much apparent reluctance, but shortly returned
-with one, which, snatching from his hand, I began eagerly to
-peruse, until perceiving the increasing wonderment which
-stupified the eyes of the waiter, I followed up the foregoing
-quotation with another, <a name="page313"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 313</span>which I addressed to him in seeming
-wrath.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The Devil damn thee black, thou cream-faced
-loon!<br />
-Where got&rsquo;st thou that goose look?&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>which had the desired effect, and relieved me from his
-presence.</p>
-<p>A month had passed away since I had visited a temple dedicated
-to Thalia or Melpomene, and, with all the enthusiasm such
-divinities inspire, I hastened to arrange my dress in the best
-manner possible, to pay them my devoirs.</p>
-<p>The play was announced to begin at half past seven
-o&rsquo;clock.&nbsp; The time had nearly arrived, and fully
-anticipating much gratification I reached the Town Hall.&nbsp; A
-staircase, not of the cleanest, led to the theatre on the first
-floor, and passing some hanging of green-baize, which formed a
-narrow passage to the pit and gallery, I was ushered into the
-former, which being set apart for the <i>gentry</i>, consisted of
-about six forms, such as are used in schools, and ranged behind
-each other.&nbsp; A barrier of the most unostentatious fabric
-stretched across the room from wall to wall, behind which were
-about the same number of forms, arranged in like manner, this
-back portion <a name="page314"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-314</span>being denominated the gallery.&nbsp; As I entered, I
-perceived a fine portly gentleman, seated in a large elbow chair
-at the extremity of the first form, whose countenance was lighted
-up by half a dozen candles, that flared magnificently within
-three feet of the front row, and divided the stage from the
-audience.&nbsp; &ldquo;There needed no ghost&rdquo; to tell me
-that this was the gentleman who had honored the theatre by his
-patronage on that occasion, and to whom I was the bearer of a
-letter of introduction, then in my pocket-book.&nbsp; The
-proscenium was of painted canvass, and a green curtain of the
-same material scantily screened the mysteries which were
-preparing on the stage.&nbsp; Upon the right of the room, a
-temporary box contained the band.&nbsp; Those who have heard the
-burst of melodious sounds thunder forth from the orchestra of the
-opera, which startles the uninitiated, in an overture of
-Mozart&rsquo;s, or in the wild and stormy grandeur which
-characterizes the compositions of Weber, may have some idea of
-the overpowering effect produced by a violin, played by a boy
-about twelve years of age, who was leader of the band, consisting
-of one old man of sixty, who rasped fearfully on a violincello,
-and an enthusiastic trombone player, who successfully drowned the
-unskilful efforts <a name="page315"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-315</span>of the other two with the tremendous roar of his
-elongating distracter.&nbsp; The front of the house was
-illuminated by three tallow candles, one on each side, stuck in
-tin candlesticks and nailed against the wall, and one at the
-extremity of the room.&nbsp; The first piece to be acted was the
-<i>Mid&rsquo; night Hour</i>; after which, I thought it high time
-to retire.</p>
-<p>The following morning I employed in paying my respects to the
-different gentlemen to whom I had letters, and in gaining what
-information I could respecting the objects most worthy of notice
-in the town, and surrounding neighbourhood.</p>
-<p>The church and chapel adjoining, were the first subjects to
-engage my attention.&nbsp; In the former there is nothing
-interesting, excepting an oaken screen, exquisitely carved, which
-was taken from the Abbey of Maenan, the gallery for the singers
-being above it.&nbsp; On the opposite side is the</p>
-<h3>GWYDIR CHAPEL.</h3>
-<p>This beautiful structure was erected in the year 1633, by Sir
-Richard Wynne, of Gwydir, from a design of Inigo Jones, and was
-for many <a name="page316"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-316</span>years the burial place of the illustrious family of
-Gwydir.&nbsp; At the sides of the chapel, fixed in panels of
-wood, are several engravings on brass, illustrative of the
-personages who are interred below; and in the east corner is a
-tablet of white marble, containing the following remarkable
-pedigree, comprising a period of 500 years.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;This chapel was erected <span
-class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1633, by Sir Richard Wynne of
-Gwydir, in the county of Carnaervon, Knight and Baronet,
-Treasurer to the High and Mighty Princess Henrietta Maria, Queen
-of England, Daughter of Henry the Fourth, King of France, and
-Wife to our Sovereign Lord King Charles; where lyeth buried his
-father Sir John Wynne, of Gwydir, Knight and Baronet, son and
-heir to Morris Wynne, son and heir to John Wynne, son and heir to
-Meredith Wynne, which three lie buried in the Church of
-Dolwyddelen, with tombs over them.&nbsp; This Meredith was son
-and heir to Evan, son and heir to Robert, son and heir to
-Meredith, son and heir to Howell, son and heir to David, son and
-heir to Griffith, son and heir to Cradock, son and heir to
-Roderick, Lord of Anglesea, son to Owen Gwynedd, Prince of <a
-name="page317"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 317</span>Wales, and
-younger brother to David, Prince of Wales, who married Emma
-Plantaginet, sister to King Henry the Second.&nbsp; There
-succeeded this David three princes; His nephew Leolinus Magnus,
-who married Joan daughter to King John,&mdash;David his son,
-nephew to King Henry the Third,&mdash;and Llewelyn the last
-Prince of Wales of that House and line, who lived in King Edward
-the First&rsquo;s time.&nbsp; Sir John Wynne married Sydney, who
-lyeth buried here, daughter of Sir William Gerrard, Knight, Lord
-Chancellor of Ireland, by whom he had issue, Sir John Wynne, who
-died at Lucca, in Italy, Sir Richard Wynne now living, Thomas
-Wynne who lyeth here, Owen Wynne now living, Robert Wynne who
-lyeth here, Roger Wynne who lyeth here, William Wynne now living,
-Maurice Wynne now living, Ellis Wynne who lyeth buried at
-Whitford, in the county of Flint, Henry Wynne now living, Roger
-Wynne who lyeth here, and two daughters, Mary now living, married
-to Sir Roger Mostyn, in the county of Flint, Knight, and
-Elizabeth now living, married to Sir John Bodville, in the County
-of Carnaervon, Knight.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Beneath this is a superb engraving of Dame <a
-name="page318"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 318</span>Sarah
-Wynne, one of the daughters of the old Chevalier Sir Thomas
-Middleton of Chirk Castle, and wife of the above mentioned Sir
-Richard Wynne; she died June 16th, 1671.&nbsp; This piece of
-engraving was executed by one William Vaughan, in a style of
-elegance hardly to be met with, and may be justly reckoned among
-the first productions of the age in which he lived.</p>
-<p>On the south side are two stately pyramidical columns of
-variegated marble, decorated with martial insignias; one to the
-memory of Meredith Wynne, the other to Sir John Wynne and Sydney
-his wife; on their pedestals are Latin inscriptions on black
-marble, which have been thus translated:</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;To the Memory of Meredith Wynne, a
-descendant of Owen Gwynedd, Prince of Wales, who, under happy
-auspices, founded the House of Gwydir, removed and endowed the
-Church of Sant Gwyddelen, during the third tournean expedition,
-in the fifth year of Henry the Eighth.&nbsp; He died in the month
-of March 1525.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;To the Memory of John Wynne of Gwydir, Knight and
-Baronet, with Sydney the daughter of William Gerrard, Knight,
-Chancellor of the Kingdom of Ireland, the wife of his youth, to
-<a name="page319"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 319</span>whom she
-bore eleven sons, and two daughters; they lie here waiting the
-appearance of Christ in Glory.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Between the above Monuments is a small Tablet of white marble
-to the Memory of John Wynne ap Meredith, with a Latin inscription
-to the following effect:</p>
-<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">&ldquo;John Wynne ap
-Meredith, an Inheritor of his<br />
-Father&rsquo;s virtues, a just and pious Man, to<br />
-whom Euna his wife brought five sons<br />
-and two daughters.&nbsp; He died the<br />
-9th of July 1559.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>On the floor is a stone effigy in armour, with the feet
-resting on a lion couchant, of Howell Coetmore ap Griffith Vychan
-ap Dafydd Gam, alias G&ocirc;ch, natural son to David, Prince of
-Wales, from whose descendants, according to tradition, Gwydir was
-purchased by the Wynnes.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p319b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"The Coffin of Leolinus Magnus"
-title=
-"The Coffin of Leolinus Magnus"
- src="images/p319s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Near to the effigy of Howell Coetmore is the underpart of a
-stone coffin in which Llewelyn ap Iorwerth, surnamed the Great,
-the son-in-law of King John, was buried at the Abbey of Conwy; to
-the coffin is fixed a piece of brass with this inscription:</p>
-<blockquote><p style="text-align: center"><a
-name="page320"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 320</span>&ldquo;This
-is the coffin of Leolinus Magnus, Prince<br />
-of Wales, who was buried at the Abbey of<br />
-Conwy, which upon the dissolution<br />
-was removed thence.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>On going from the chapel to the church, you pass over a large
-square flag of free stone, having on its sides a Latin
-inscription thus translated:</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;To the Memory of the Sons of John Wynne of
-Gwydir, Knight and Baronet, who died during their father&rsquo;s
-life time: John Knight, was buried at Lucca, in the free State of
-Italy, in the year of his age 30, of our Lord 1613.&nbsp; Robert,
-who had entered into holy orders, in the year of his age 24, of
-our Lord 1617.&nbsp; Thomas, Roger, Thomas, in their
-minority.&mdash;Death! a vapour!&nbsp; Behold! we have
-existed.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>In the chancel, between the reading desk and the communion
-table, is a flag of freestone on the remains of Margaret Vaughan,
-heiress of Caergai; she was esteemed the Sappho of her age; many
-of her poetical productions are still extant.</p>
-<p>The gallery over the reading desk is said to <a
-name="page321"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 321</span>have been
-removed here from the Abbey of Aberllechog or Maenan Abbey, upon
-the dissolution of that religious house.</p>
-<p>Under the reading desk in the Church, in a pew belonging to
-Kyffdy, is a Latin epitaph to the memory of Griffith Lloyd, of
-Bryniog, Rector of this parish; this is said to have been written
-by himself, and has been much admired for its
-singularity:&mdash;it runs thus:</p>
-
-<blockquote><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&ldquo;Once
-the undeserving School-master,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Then the more
-undeserving Lecturer,<br />
-And last of all, the most undeserving Rector of this Parish.<br
-/>
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Do not think, speak, or write any thing evil of the
-Dead.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>There is a Market Hall, Town Hall, free schools and alms
-houses.&nbsp; The latter were erected by Sir John Wynne, in 1610,
-and received the name of Jesus Hospital.&nbsp; He endowed them
-for the reception of twelve poor men, by ceding the rectorial
-tithes of Eglwys Fach, which are valued at &pound;200 per
-annum.&nbsp; Within a mile of Llanrwst there is a spring, which
-is much esteemed for its healthful qualities.&nbsp; The water is
-soft, and a drop of sal-volatile mixed with a cup of it, turns it
-white as milk, while oil of tartar causes it to assume a pearl
-colour.&nbsp; If during the tourist&rsquo;s visit to Llanrwst
-there <a name="page322"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-322</span>should chance to fall much rain, I would advise him by
-all means to view the cataract called</p>
-<h3>RHAIADR-Y-PARC MAWR,</h3>
-<p>in the valley of Nant Bwlch yr Haiarn, near Gwydir, but
-otherwise the minuteness of the stream occasions no extraordinary
-effect from this fall, which is about one hundred feet in
-height.&nbsp; The chief object of interest, however, in this
-vicinity, is the celebrated lakes, called</p>
-<h3>LLYN GEIRIONYDD,</h3>
-<p>upon the borders of which once lived the chief of the Welsh
-bards, <i>Taliesin</i>.&nbsp; At the eastern side of the lake is
-a mound, upon the summit of which there is a kind of hollow, and
-in it are the remains of an ancient edifice, which was probably
-the residence of Taliesin, in the reign of Maelgwn Gwynedd, king
-of Britain.&nbsp; Taliesin when an infant was found by Prince
-Elphin by the side of a wear belonging to his father Gwyddno
-Garanhir, lord of Cantrev Gwaelod.&nbsp; The prince fostered the
-infant, and had it liberally educated; and, at a proper age,
-introduced him to the court of his father Gwyddno.&nbsp; Upon
-this occasion, Taliesin presented the king with a poem, <a
-name="page323"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 323</span>the subject
-of which was his own history, and another to the prince, which he
-called Dyhuddiant Elphin, or the consolation of Elphin, a
-translation of which is in Evan&rsquo;s specimens of Welsh
-poetry.</p>
-<p>Taliesin had an opportunity of being serviceable to his
-benefactor; for once, when the prince was imprisoned by his uncle
-Maelgwn, in the castle of Tejanwy, the magic of his muse effected
-his release.</p>
-<p>This celebrated bard was the preceptor of Myrddin ap Merfryn,
-and to him the lovers of poetry are indebted for five new metres,
-while the historian and antiquary are equally benefitted by his
-accurate description of the manners and customs of the ancient
-Britons.</p>
-<p>I quitted Llanrwst on the following morning, and took the road
-to Conway: two miles and a half brought me to the pretty village
-of</p>
-<h3>TREFRIW,</h3>
-<p>which presents an animated scene.&nbsp; It is situated upon
-the banks of the beautiful river Conway, which is navigable up to
-this point for vessels of fifty tons burthen, that supply the
-town and neighbourhood with coals, lime, groceries, <a
-name="page324"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 324</span>&amp;c.
-&amp;c. and return laden with slate, supplied from the adjacent
-mines and quarries.</p>
-<p>A number of small boats, called coracles, used by the
-fishermen, are seen studding the delightful stream, while the
-larger vessels, towed against the wind or sailing before it,
-present a pleasing picture.</p>
-<p>From this place to Conway there is nothing particularly to
-attract attention, until you arrive within a mile of that
-celebrated town, when from the brow of a hill, is obtained a view
-of the venerable fortress erected by the first Edward, and the
-strongly fortified walls, completely encompassing the town, and
-strengthened by massive towers.&nbsp; They are coeval with the
-castle, and are built in the form of a Welsh harp, like those of
-Caernarvon; but here there are no environs, and the town presents
-the same appearance as when the chivalric monarch first fortified
-it.</p>
-<h3>CONWAY.</h3>
-<p>The town derives its name from Cyn (chief) and Wy (river).</p>
-<p>The principal inn is the Castle, which affords every
-accommodation the traveller can desire.&nbsp; <a
-name="page325"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 325</span>The Wynnes
-are celebrated here, as in all parts of North Wales.&nbsp; In the
-interior of the town stands <i>Plas Mawr</i>, which was erected
-in 1585, and is still a remarkable structure; its founder was
-Robert Wynne of Gwydir, the uncle of Sir John Wynne the
-historian.&nbsp; Over the grand entrance is inscribed, in Greek
-characters, &ldquo;<i>bear and forbear</i>,&rdquo; over which in
-Roman characters, &ldquo;J. H. S. X. P. S.&rdquo;&nbsp; (Jesus
-Hominum Salvator et populi salus).&nbsp; The old college is in
-Castle Street, and the church is built from the remains of the
-ancient Cistercian Abbey, which was founded here by Llewellyn ap
-Jorwerth, 1185.&nbsp; It contains a rich baptismal font of gothic
-structure, with a tablet to the memory of Nicholas Hookes of the
-town of Conway, who was the forty-first child of William and
-Alice Hookes, and who was himself the father of twenty-seven
-children.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p325b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Conway Castle"
-title=
-"Conway Castle"
- src="images/p325s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>During my short stay in Conway, I endeavoured to discover the
-best view of the town, which I think is from the eastern side of
-the river, about midway between the chain bridge and the mansion
-of Sir John Hilton.&nbsp; Nothing can be more interesting.&nbsp;
-The variety of small craft, sailing and anchored, before its
-warlike screen; the castle, with its towers and turrets, <a
-name="page326"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 326</span>rising in
-hostile grandeur upon its rocky base; the bridge, and lovely
-scenery beyond of purple hills and thriving villages; and the
-bright waters sporting with the luxuriant foliage of its woody
-margin, create a sensation of delight in the pursuer of
-picturesque scenery, which he has probably seldom before
-experienced.</p>
-<p>Another delightful view may be obtained by ascending the rock,
-which overhangs the lodge of the bridge upon its eastern
-side.&nbsp; A flight of steps conducts to the summit, where a
-seat is most conveniently placed for the accommodation of the
-lovers of romantic beauty; and the bridge, although inferior in
-magnitude to the stupendous work of art which stretches over
-Bangor Ferry, commands the admiration of the spectator.&nbsp; But
-the chief object of interest is the castle, which surpasses in
-picturesque grandeur any building of the kind I ever
-beheld.&nbsp; I thought Carnaervon Castle the most beautiful of
-ruins, but it is not, in my opinion, to be compared with
-Conway.&nbsp; The solidity of its structure, and its expansive
-site, resembling the fortresses of Syria and the Holy Land, give
-to its exterior all that the most romantic imagination could
-desire.&nbsp; Its foundation is a rock of slate, and its works
-are impregnable.&nbsp; Nothing <a name="page327"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 327</span>but famine could, at the time it was
-erected, have had power to subdue it.&nbsp; Its walls are from
-ten to twelve feet in thickness, and it had formerly a deep and
-broad moat, on the west and north west sides; which with the sea
-washing its base on the east and south, formed insurmountable
-barriers to the assailants.</p>
-<p>It was evening when I first entered this noble ruin.&nbsp; The
-porteress very ungraciously left me to my meditations after
-admitting me, locking the gate after her, and leaving me like a
-state prisoner in the royal fortress.&nbsp; I confess I was
-little pleased with the manners of my conductress and the
-solitary situation in which I was placed, and sensations arose
-within me like those which a school boy feels when passing a
-churchyard at midnight.</p>
-<p>The sun had set, and the deep shadows of eve were darkening
-into night, as I stood alone in the court yard, and flitting
-visions arose before me of those who crossed its space in distant
-bygone ages&mdash;&ldquo;the plumed troops,&rdquo; and courtly
-dames, and all the glitter of the olden times.&nbsp; As I thus
-stood amongst the ruins, a deep drawn sigh, close by my ear, made
-my heart leap into my throat, as I turned to discover from whence
-it proceeded.&nbsp; But all was solitude <a
-name="page328"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-328</span>around.&nbsp; The huge festoons of ivy, unruffled by a
-breath of air, hung heavily in funereal grandeur on the
-walls.&nbsp; As I passed into what had been the banqueting hall,
-the darkness increased.&nbsp; It was a noble apartment, and
-measured 130 feet in length, and thirty in breadth, in height
-twenty.&nbsp; Nine windows looked southward, up the river, and
-two into the courtyard.&nbsp; In the recesses were stone seats,
-capable of accommodating twelve persons; and, as I seated myself
-in one of these, my delusion of other days came over me.&nbsp;
-Here sat the first Edward, the hero of Palestine; here was the
-monarch besieged, and almost reduced by famine; here Hotspur and
-King Richard held a conference; and the latter, putting himself
-into the power of Northumberland, was betrayed by him, and sent a
-prisoner to the usurper Bolingbroke.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Life&rsquo;s but a walking shadow&mdash;a
-poor player,<br />
-That struts and frets his hour upon the stage,<br />
-And then is heard no more!&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>As I made this apt quotation, another deep and heavy sigh, and
-a rustling in the ivy, startled me, and the bird of solitude, the
-lonely owl, flapped his heavy wings, and flew past me to a <a
-name="page329"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 329</span>remoter
-corner of the ruined hall.&nbsp; I arose, and walked to a small
-chamber, where there was an open ornamented casement, and which,
-as I was afterwards informed, bears the name of the queen&rsquo;s
-oriel; from which there is a pleasant prospect of part of the
-ruin and scenery beyond.</p>
-<p>I then proceeded to the terrace, at the south western
-extremity, which is on the surface of the rock; and the prospect
-from this spot, interesting at all times, is doubly so by
-moonlight.&nbsp; The suspension bridge beneath, the ocean on the
-left, and this fertile valley on the right, with the sparkling
-Conway meandering through it, compose a scene of unexampled
-beauty.</p>
-<p>In the year 1290, when Edward was engaged in a dispute with
-the King of France, and was determined to revenge himself upon
-that potentate, in order to obtain supplies, he made the
-experiment of taxing his newly acquired Welsh subjects; which
-they resented by hanging Roger de Pulesdon, who had been
-appointed to collect the tax; and by defeating the English
-forces, who attempted to enforce them.</p>
-<p>Alarmed at a revolt, which was now rising into importance, and
-which threatened to wrest from him his new dominions, Edward
-entered North Wales, to conduct the war in person.</p>
-<p><a name="page330"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-330</span>Having proceeded in his march to Conway, he crossed
-that arm of the sea with a part of his forces, and retiring into
-the castle with them, awaited the arrival of the remainder.&nbsp;
-In his passage he lost many waggons, and other carriages, loaded
-with provisions, which were intercepted by the Welsh, who came
-down in multitudes from the mountains, and invested the castle,
-upon the land side, while a sudden rise in the Conway, which
-prevented his troops from crossing the river and rendering him
-assistance, made his situation extremely alarming.&nbsp; He was
-surrounded by water and the enemy, cut off from his army, and
-threatened with famine.</p>
-<p>The good fortune of Edward, however, returned to him in the
-hour of need.&nbsp; The river subsided, and his forces being able
-to cross to his relief, the Welsh again retired to the mountains,
-and the English monarch passed his Christmas holidays without
-interruption at the castle.</p>
-<p>In 1665, the Earl of Conway, under pretence of its being for
-his majesty&rsquo;s service, stripped the castle of all its
-furniture, iron and lead, and shipped them off to Ireland,
-otherwise it might have remained as firm and entire at the
-present day, as when it was first erected.</p>
-<p><a name="page331"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 331</span>If
-these Goths were aware of the ignominy they attached to their
-shields by acts so disgraceful, they might perhaps have permitted
-beauty and grandeur to remain undefiled by their sacrilegious
-touch.</p>
-<p>The young men still keep up many of the ancient local customs;
-amongst which, on Nos Calanmai, or, the eve of the first of May,
-they hang on the houses of their sweethearts bunches of rosemary
-and ribbons.</p>
-<p>At the door of a prude they tie a penglog, or part of a
-horse&rsquo;s skeleton.&nbsp; There is likewise a custom
-preserved called Stocsio.&nbsp; Upon Easter Sunday, a great
-number of boys and men assemble on Pentwthil, with wands of
-gorse, to proclaim the laws and regulations which are to be
-observed upon the following morning.&nbsp; The last married
-person is sought to perform this office, who, mounted on a heap
-of stones, issues his mandate, while the rest listen with silent
-attention.&nbsp; He decrees that all men under sixty years of age
-are to appear in the street before six o&rsquo;clock on the
-following morning; and all under forty, before four; and all
-under twenty are commanded not to go to bed at all, under penalty
-of being put into the stocks.</p>
-<p><a name="page332"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 332</span>The
-orator then descends, amidst loud cheering, and the assembled
-parties separate; the younger branches to form plans of
-amusement, and the graver to secure their carts, waggons, and
-wheelbarrows, with chains and locks, to prevent their being
-seized upon the following day; a very necessary precaution, as
-every vehicle, unmanacled, or otherwise unsecured, is sure of
-being pressed before dawn of day into the service of the
-light-hearted youths, who are not over careful of their
-neighbour&rsquo;s property during the uproarious period of their
-festivity.</p>
-<p>Early in the morning, the stocks are placed at one end of the
-street, and a party, marching to the inspiring music of a drum
-and fife, parade the town, in order to convey to the place of
-punishment all seceders from this ancient law of custom.&nbsp;
-When they arrive at a house where a rebel resides, the storming
-party endeavour by all practicable means to gain admittance; such
-as climbing in at the windows, forcing open the back door,
-&amp;c., and they generally secure the culprit; who, if he be
-caught in bed, is allowed sufficient time to dress himself, and
-then hurried away to the stocks, amid the exulting shouts of the
-assembled multitude.</p>
-<p><a name="page333"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 333</span>His
-feet being secured, one of the party gives him a severe lecture
-upon the sin of idleness, and of breaking old established
-customs.&nbsp; Then taking his right hand, he puts questions to
-him; such as, whether he would rather kiss the mistress or the
-maid?&mdash;whether he prefers buttermilk or strong
-ale?&mdash;and the more satisfactory his answers are to the
-party, the more thickly his hand is plaistered with mud, until at
-length he is released, and, with loud cheering, permitted to join
-the forces, as they march off in search of another rebel.</p>
-<p>There is a pearl fishery at Conway, and many poor families are
-supported by gathering the muscles, which contain these gems.</p>
-<p>The fish is called by Linn&aelig;us <i>myd
-margaritefera</i>.&nbsp; The produce is transmitted to London in
-the pure natural state, and easily finds a market amongst the
-jewellers, who purchase them by weight, but in the neighbourhood
-of Conway the purposes they are appropriated to are unknown.</p>
-<p>It was my good fortune to meet with a brother tourist at the
-Castle Inn; who, after acquainting me with the above facts,
-offered to conduct me in the morning to Llandudno, which <a
-name="page334"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 334</span>offer I
-thankfully accepted; and, before the sun had finished his draught
-of mountain dew, we had crossed the bridge, and were pursuing our
-course to the appointed spot.&nbsp; The tide was at low ebb, and
-a pleasant walk of three quarters of a mile upon the hard sand
-brought us to</p>
-<h3>DINAS GONWY</h3>
-<p>&ldquo;The fort of the Conway.&rdquo;&nbsp; By the English, it
-is called the Gannoc and by the common people in the
-neighbourhood &ldquo;Y Faer dre.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>The ruins of an ancient castle are to be seen at a short
-distance, situated upon two hillocks, near the shore.&nbsp; From
-thence we crossed by Eglwy&rsquo;s Rh&ocirc;s, where Maelgwn
-Gwynedd is said to have taken refuge to avoid the yellow fever,
-which was committing great havoc in all parts of Europe.&nbsp;
-Gloddaeth, the residence of Lady Mostyn Champneys, is sweetly
-situated near this place.&nbsp; It was built by her ancestors in
-the reign of Elizabeth, and is celebrated for the Welsh
-manuscripts contained in the library.&nbsp; The grounds are most
-tastefully laid out, and the tourist will find himself amply
-rewarded for <a name="page335"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-335</span>his pains while viewing the extreme beauty of the
-scenes around.</p>
-<h3>LLANDUDNO</h3>
-<p>is built upon a huge mass of rock which projects into the sea,
-called The Great Orme&rsquo;s Head; a small village, where
-formerly a great deal of smuggling was carried on; and, as we
-stood gazing upon the frightful precipice beneath us, at the base
-of which the ocean breaks its mighty bulk, and foams as if
-enraged at opposition, my companion related a story of a
-fisherman&rsquo;s daughter and her lover, the circumstances of
-which took place within view of the position we then
-occupied.</p>
-<h3>THE SMUGGLER.</h3>
-<p>&ldquo;It was my fortune, or rather my misfortune,&rdquo; said
-my companion, &ldquo;some forty years ago, to take up my quarters
-at a fisherman&rsquo;s hut in the village, who was a widower with
-one child, a lovely girl of about sixteen years of age.&nbsp; She
-performed all the household duties for her father with the
-greatest neatness and cheerfulness, and <a
-name="page336"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 336</span>at evening
-was looked upon by the youth of the surrounding neighbourhood, as
-the gayest and handsomest lass that tripped upon the hard sands
-to the music of a blind harper, who lived in the vicinity.&nbsp;
-Many a time as I stood and saw her light feet moving in the
-inspiring dance, have I said to myself, it would be a pity now if
-so light a foot should ever carry a heavy heart.&nbsp; Poor Jane!
-she was the sweetest wild flower of the cliff&mdash;nursed in
-storm and tempest, yet in her simplicity more winning to the
-heart and eye than the proudest exotic luxury could
-produce.&nbsp; I took a pleasing interest in her; and for the
-attention she paid me, resolved upon improving her education to
-the extent of my ability, which I considered an easy task, for
-the organ of veneration, I observed, was large, which induced me
-to think she respected those who took an interest in her
-welfare.&nbsp; Benevolence and hope were equally prominent, and,
-when this happy association appears, the leading feature of such
-persons&rsquo; characters may be perceived in the religious
-obedience they pay to all those who are anxious to instruct their
-minds and purify their thoughts.&nbsp; I felt notwithstanding,
-considerable anxiety for her future welfare; for at the lower
-part and back of the head, between the <i>mastoid processes</i>
-<a name="page337"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 337</span>and the
-<i>occipital bone</i>, I had noticed an enlargement, which I
-knew, combined as it was with the moral sentiments and the organs
-of adhesiveness, strongly developed, would either prove the
-blessing or the bane of her existence, as these opposites
-depended not only upon the man&rsquo;s disposition to whom she
-might yield her affections, but to the destiny of that man,
-successful or disastrous.&nbsp; And I had frequent opportunities
-of observing that she had a strong partiality for a youth who was
-possessed of personal and mental qualifications far beyond those
-of his associates, but who was wild, with the bump of
-marvellousness extremely prominent.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Zounds,&rdquo; said I, &ldquo;if you cover your story
-with so many excrescences, I shall never be able to remember one
-half of it.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>My companion smiled benevolently, as he replied, I perceive
-you lack the organ of <i>individuality</i>; and then resumed the
-thread of his discourse.&nbsp; After remaining with them nearly
-three months, during which I may give myself credit for having
-made good use of my time in improving the manners and intellect
-of my docile pupil, I took leave of the fisherman and his
-daughter, promising to pay them a visit in the course of a month,
-before I returned to <a name="page338"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 338</span>merry England.&nbsp; Tears stood in
-the eyes of poor Jane as I turned to quit the cottage, and the
-old father squeezed my hand with a cordiality that effectually
-stopped the circulation of my blood in that extremity.&nbsp;
-Mark, her lover, seemed neither sorry nor pleased, but leaning
-his broad back against the white-washed wall of the cottage,
-whistled with the greatest composure, &ldquo;The jovial
-fellow&rsquo;s farewell.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>After a month&rsquo;s ramble, I returned to this spot on a
-dark, stormy day in October;&mdash;it was indeed a dreary
-evening.&nbsp; The rain fell in torrents, and the hoarse sound of
-the surge came heavily upon my ear as I approached the cottage of
-my late worthy host; when suddenly, as I lifted my eyes from the
-ground, I perceived a number of persons walking in slow
-procession, as from a funeral, and a cold shudder came over me as
-I recognised the father of Jane; his white locks exposed to the
-beating rain, his head bent to the ground, and his hands clasped
-upon his breast, in the action of mental agony.</p>
-<p>Thinking my visit would prove ill-timed, I proceeded to a
-small public-house, and, while my garments were drying at the
-fire, I managed to extract from the landlord, that the funeral of
-Jane Morgan had just taken place.&nbsp; Astonishment <a
-name="page339"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 339</span>and sorrow
-chained my tongue for some time; I shall never forget the
-sensations I experienced at this mournful relation.&nbsp; I sat
-motionless in my chair, without uttering a syllable for a full
-hour, or noticing anything that transpired around me during that
-time.&nbsp; I could think of nothing but Jane Morgan; I could see
-nothing but her young blooming face and yellow locks, which used
-to glitter like threads of gold in the sunbeams, as the fresh sea
-breeze blew them into a thousand fantastic waves; her airy form,
-as it flew along the sand on which her light foot scarcely left a
-print; her simple dress; all this I brought to my
-&ldquo;mind&rsquo;s eye,&rdquo; and afterwards the church-yard
-where she was laid a corpse&mdash;I burst into tears.</p>
-<p>Her lover, Mark Bratts, who had for more than a twelvemonth
-paid courtship to poor Jane, had obtained her father&rsquo;s
-consent to their union, whenever he could realize a sufficient
-sum to begin the world with in a prudent and respectable
-way.&nbsp; The precarious life of a fisherman, however, appeared
-to Mark to hold out but little prospect of wealth enough either
-to gain or to support a wife; and he resolved upon obtaining the
-object of his wishes as speedily as possible in some other
-way.</p>
-<p><a name="page340"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 340</span>A man
-named Simpson, a notorious smuggler in the neighbourhood, was
-known to have amassed a considerable property, and Mark resolved
-to offer himself to serve as one of the crew on board his lugger;
-hoping, that in a trip or two, he might earn sufficient to claim
-his promised bride.&nbsp; He was accepted aboard; and the day
-following the little vessel spread her light sails to the breeze,
-and took her course for Holland.&nbsp; Mark possessed a little
-money which he laid out in a venture, trusting thereby to clear
-so much as would enable him to claim as his bride the object of
-his love.</p>
-<p>It was a stormy day when the inhabitants of Llandudno were
-roused by the report of guns from seaward, the wind blowing
-furiously right on shore.&nbsp; It was about the time that the
-smuggler&rsquo;s vessel was expected, and those interested in her
-safe arrival hastily ran to this promontory to ascertain if she
-was in sight, or in danger, for a king&rsquo;s cutter was known
-to be cruising on the coast.&nbsp; It was just dawn; the sea was
-running mountains high; and within a league of the rocks they
-perceived two vessels within half a mile of each other.&nbsp; The
-first was a small lugger, carrying a press of canvass that seemed
-to run her hull under as she made directly for <a
-name="page341"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 341</span>the
-headland, and her masts bent like reeds to the fury of the
-tempest.&nbsp; As she approached the headland, a number of kegs
-piled one upon another on the decks, were observed to vanish into
-the deep by dozens, being flung overboard by the busy crew.&nbsp;
-They were within a mile of the shore, when the revenue cutter,
-hauling her wind, poured a broadside of grape shot into the
-smuggler, so well directed that several were seen to fall from
-their stations in various parts of the vessel.&nbsp; Still they
-carried every stitch of canvass, knowing that there was water
-enough for the light lugger to cross the bar after they had
-rounded the point, and that the revenue cutter would be sure to
-strike upon the sands if she attempted to follow them half a mile
-further, being of much heavier tonnage.&nbsp; Besides, she was
-already in some peril, by venturing so far in shore, with a gale
-blowing heavily from the north east.</p>
-<p>She was soon within hail of the head, and the cliffs were
-covered with human beings, gazing eagerly upon the little craft
-beneath it, when suddenly, a chain shot from the cutter carried
-away her mainmast, which fell over the side.&nbsp; To cut away
-the stays and clear the wreck, was the work of a minute, and the
-smuggler&rsquo;s bark <a name="page342"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 342</span>swept like a sea bird round the
-great Ormes head into the Bay of Conway, but not until their
-pursuers had sent another broadside into her hull as they stood
-off shore.&nbsp; As the Typhon, the name of the king&rsquo;s
-vessel turned from the pursuit; the daring outlaws sent up a
-shout of triumph, which was echoed from those upon the rocks, and
-after a slight shock which the lugger received, as she crossed
-the sand-bank, they floated safely in smooth water.</p>
-<p>But where was Jane?&nbsp; Foremost of that crowd which
-gathered on the rocks, when the firing was first heard, flew the
-light form of the loving maiden, like a young eagle glaring for
-its mate.&nbsp; She stood upon the extreme verge of the cliff,
-unconscious of every thing, save the peril of her lover, her eyes
-fixed upon the vessels, straining as they would crack their
-strings, to discover the form of him who had her heart in
-keeping; and, as the vessel glided under the headland, she hung
-over the brink of the precipice, gazing upon the dead and dying,
-with whom the decks were strewed.&nbsp; But she saw him
-not.&nbsp; With the swiftness of the seamew, she followed the
-course of the smuggler along the shore; and when at last she saw
-the white sails gathered to the yards, and the vessel riding
-safely at anchor in the <a name="page343"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 343</span>rocky bay, she leaped into a boat,
-and rowed herself to its side.&nbsp; A moment, and she jumped
-upon the deck, calling wildly for poor Mark.&nbsp; But no one
-answered her.&nbsp; With hair dishevelled, and eyes glancing
-fire, she turned each dead man&rsquo;s face up to the sky.&nbsp;
-At length, a headless trunk met her distracted gaze.&nbsp; A
-bright gold ringlet of hair, tinged with the smuggler&rsquo;s
-blood, and fastened to the breast of his shirt, the blue
-pea-jacket she gave Mark at his departure, and the brass buckles
-which her father wore, and presented to him as a pledge of future
-favour, all flashed conviction on her mind, that it was the
-mutilated form of her lover.&nbsp; A wild scream, which struck
-terror into the hearts of the daring crew, proclaimed her heart
-was broken; and falling on his mangled corse she instantly
-expired.</p>
-<p>This was the melancholy end of the lovers.&nbsp; And you may
-remember that I said her happiness or misery would depend not
-only on the disposition of the man she loved, but upon his future
-destiny; the organs of amativeness and adhesiveness being so
-largely developed.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>Here an object attracted his attention at a short distance,
-and he suddenly left off speaking <a name="page344"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 344</span>to examine the scull of a melancholy
-donkey, which stood gazing upon the waste of waters.</p>
-<p>Having carefully examined the animal&rsquo;s pericranium, on
-which he made some scientific remarks, elaborately pointing out
-the distinguishing characteristics of the quadruped and biped
-race, I reminded him that it was high time to retrace our steps
-to Conway, and, as we trudged along, he related a story of rather
-a whimsical nature, which, as it tended to illustrate his
-favorite science, afforded me much amusement.</p>
-<h3>THE BUMP OF ORDER.</h3>
-<p>He lived, he said, at one time opposite to a house where
-resided a newly married couple.&nbsp; The house had the
-appearance of particular neatness, the flag stones before the
-door being white as snow, as were those supporting the railing of
-the area.&nbsp; The ledges of the windows were in keeping with
-the rest, and the windows themselves were perfectly
-unstained.&nbsp; The curtains below were of green damask, and
-above of elegant chintz, with pink linings.&nbsp; A variety of
-plants bloomed in the balcony, and the pots were ranged in
-precise order.</p>
-<p><a name="page345"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 345</span>It
-greatly excited his curiosity, that every week, for upwards of a
-twelvemonth, he saw one or two new servants.&nbsp; It appeared
-that one week was the longest period the lady ever permitted any
-menial to remain in the house.</p>
-<p>This circumstance created some surprise, as, during the time,
-he had never observed a single gentleman or lady knock at their
-door.</p>
-<p>He had an opera glass, through which he took every opportunity
-of examining their heads across the street.&nbsp; At length, his
-bump of curiosity over-mastering every other consideration,
-determined him to seek an occasion of becoming acquainted with
-the lady of the house.&nbsp; For this purpose, he dressed himself
-with peculiar nicety, and stepping over, intimated by a
-rat-tat-tat that he was at the door.&nbsp; A female servant
-answered the summons, and ushered him into the parlour, where the
-lady was seated gazing with a vacant stare upon some pots of
-geraniums, which occupied a niche in the apartment.&nbsp; When a
-lady receives a visit from a gentleman she has never been
-introduced to, it is natural for her to look in his face, and an
-opinion is too frequently formed by the Lavater-loving sex, of
-the character, at first sight, of the being before them.&nbsp;
-But Mrs. &mdash; took a very different view of my <a
-name="page346"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-346</span>philosophical friend; for her eyes fell from the
-geraniums to the toes of her visitor, as if she had the art of
-discovering the character of a man by the state of his boots.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I hope you will excuse the appearance of a stranger
-at&rdquo;&mdash;</p>
-<p>The lady interrupted him with, &ldquo;None of the cleanest,
-indeed, Mr. Thingumbob.&nbsp; Good God, Susan, why did&rsquo;nt
-you tell him to wipe his feet on the mat!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I beg you will excuse,&rdquo;&mdash;continued my
-friend, apologizing.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Well, I suppose I must excuse.&nbsp; My gracious! what
-are you doing, sir? you&rsquo;ve put your nasty wet hat upon my
-beautiful rose-wood table!&nbsp; Why, Susan, I say, bring a
-cloth&mdash;who could ever believe that any man would bring his
-hat into a parlour! you stupid girl, is that the way to rub a
-table? use a little elbow grease, you intolerable slow
-coach&mdash;there, get away and let me do it myself!&rdquo; and
-with that the lady snatched the cloth from the hands of her
-domestic, and began rubbing and puffing in a style which
-sufficiently proved she was capable of <i>giving</i>, if not
-<i>receiving</i> a polish.</p>
-<p>After ten minutes&rsquo; exercise, the lady returned the
-rubber to the servant, and with a face ruddy <a
-name="page347"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 347</span>as the full
-moon at its rising, seated herself upon the chair, and cast a
-look of satisfaction round the room at the peculiar neatness of
-its appearance.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I perceive, madam,&rdquo; said my friend, &ldquo;you
-take particular delight in seeing your apartments kept clean and
-neat, and the arrangement of this room does honour to your
-taste;&rdquo; he had touched the string that vibrated to her
-heart.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I confess, sir, I feel a pride in seeing every thing in
-its place, and cleanliness is an indispensable qualification in
-the servant I engage.&nbsp; Will you believe me, sir, when I tell
-you that this girl you just saw, is the forty-ninth I have had in
-the last twelvemonth, and I have no more idea of keeping her than
-I have of taking back any of her predecessors.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Ah madam, servants are sad plagues!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Plagues, sir, they are devils.&nbsp; Why, it was but
-yesterday, when I thought my house, from the attic to the
-kitchen, was so clean, that not a speck of dirt could be visible
-to a fly, I was obliged to upset a whole boiler full of the most
-delicious pea-soup into the middle of the kitchen!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>The phrenologist lifted up his legs, by instinct, <a
-name="page348"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 348</span>as if he
-felt the sprinkling of it upon them, and exclaimed, &ldquo;How
-unfortunate!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Unfortunate, sir, it was insupportable,&rdquo; cried
-the lady; &ldquo;but I made her clean it up again!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>My learned friend was then put to a nonplus; he could not for
-the life of him, make out why Mrs. &mdash; should have taken the
-trouble to upset a boiler of pea-soup into the middle of the
-clean kitchen; and this he politely requested her to explain.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Why, I&rsquo;ll tell you, sir, it is my pleasure to see
-every thing in its place, and a grease spot to me is as bad as a
-plague spot to many.&nbsp; Now, sir, although the kitchen looked
-better, I&rsquo;ll be bound to say, than any other kitchen in
-town, yet I was anxious to see if my servant had obeyed my orders
-in taking a spot of grease out of the boards, which by accident
-fell upon them the day before; so lifting up the
-oil-cloth&mdash;judge of my horror and dismay to find it
-untouched!&nbsp; I inquired the reason.&nbsp; The servants had
-the impudence to tell me, they had not time, at which, I made no
-more ado, but threw the boiler of soup upon it, which took them a
-good two hours to clean up again.&nbsp; I <i>will</i> have every
-thing done, and in order.&rdquo;</p>
-<p><a name="page349"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-349</span>&ldquo;Indeed, madam,&rdquo; said my friend, &ldquo;I
-perceive the admirable effects of your system&mdash;this room is
-in admirable order.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;This room, sir! have the goodness to walk into my
-bed-room up stairs!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>My phrenological friend, although he had passed the meridian
-of life, could not help thinking this invitation rather
-extraordinary, more particularly so, when the lady desired him to
-take off his shoes.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;For,&rdquo; said she, &ldquo;I never allow even my
-husband to come up stairs in his shoes.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Now it so happened that my friend had a particular reason for
-wishing to avoid this ceremony, having walked a hole in one of
-his stockings the day before, and the laundress was in possession
-of his <i>other</i> pair.&nbsp; Nothing, however, could alter her
-determination of exhibiting her cleanliness.&nbsp; She protested
-he should see her bed-room, and insisted on his taking off his
-shoes!</p>
-<p>With a shrug <i>&agrave; la fran&ccedil;aise</i>, he
-submitted, but had not ascended half way up the stair-case before
-the lady who followed, perceived the injury his hose had
-sustained, and with a cry of horror exclaimed, &ldquo;Susan!
-bring up a needle and thread!&rdquo; the words were scarcely
-uttered, <a name="page350"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-350</span>when the girl appeared, and without hesitation (without
-asking him to draw off his hose) seizing him by the foot,
-compelled him to submit to her needle&rsquo;s operation; blushing
-and confounded at the awkward position his unjustifiable
-curiosity had drawn him into; having completed her orders, the
-girl descended to the kitchen, while he ascended to a square
-landing place on the first floor.&nbsp; On the outside of the
-window was a veranda filled with the choicest plants and flowers;
-the casement being open a delightful breeze entered the house,
-bringing with it the odours of the little garden; and he was
-about making a complimentary observation upon the admirable
-arrangement of her bough-pots, when, helter-skelter, in, through
-the casement, bolted a large tabby cat, and with a spring,
-clearing my friend&rsquo;s shoulders, alighted upon the elegantly
-laced cap of the precise Mrs. &mdash;.&nbsp; They had not time to
-recover from their first alarm, when down tumbled all the roses,
-lignum vit&aelig;s, rhododandrums, geraniums and myrtles, being
-dislodged by a huge tom-cat rushing in, in pursuit of the
-aforesaid timid feline intruder.&nbsp; Crash, crash! went the
-bough-pots&mdash;squall, squall, went the lady.&nbsp; Damnation!
-exclaimed the gentleman.&nbsp; The lady&rsquo;s foot slipped, and
-she slid <a name="page351"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-351</span>and bumped to the bottom of the stairs; the
-phrenologist, endeavouring to save her, blundered completely over
-the lady.&nbsp; The two cats scampered round and athwart the
-elegantly arranged parlour, dislodging every ornament from the
-chimney-piece; and at length, my friend, having recovered his
-shoes, hastily snatched up his hat and cane, and made a
-precipitate escape from the house of a lady, who was unfortunate
-in having the bump of <i>order</i> too strongly developed.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>We arrived at the castle in Conway greatly fatigued, and
-equally delighted with our day&rsquo;s ramble.</p>
-<h2><a name="page352"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-352</span>CHAPTER XII.</h2>
-<p class="gutsumm">Route to Aber&mdash;Penmaen Mawr&mdash;The pet
-Goat&mdash;Aber&mdash;Legend of Llewllyn and the Captive
-Knight&mdash;Road from Aber to Bangor&mdash;Penrhyn
-Castle&mdash;Bangor&mdash;Inns&mdash;The Cathedral&mdash;The
-Castle&mdash;Free Schools&mdash;The Menai Bridge&mdash;Song,
-Farewell to North Wales, air, Ar Hyd y Nos&mdash;Conclusion.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;When the heathen trumpets clang<br />
-Round beleaguer&rsquo;d Chester rang,<br />
-Veiled nun and friar grey<br />
-March&rsquo;d from Bangor&rsquo;s fair Abbaye:<br />
-High their holy Anthem sounds,<br />
-Cestria&rsquo;s vale the hymn rebounds,<br />
-Floating down the silver Dee,<br />
-
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-O Miserere Domine!&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: right">SIR WALTER SCOTT.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p><span class="smcap">On</span> the following morning, we
-started for Aber.&nbsp; The coast scenery is extremely grand; <a
-name="page353"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 353</span>and
-passing, the promontory of Penmaen Bach, a semicircular range of
-mountains, stretching to the overpeering height of Penmaen Mawr,
-from a delightful shelter to one of the most beautiful coast
-retreats in North Wales.</p>
-<p>The present road winds round the waist of Penmaen Mawr, and
-nothing can exceed the terrors that, above and underneath it,
-meet the eye of the traveller.&nbsp; A few goats are generally
-seen wandering among the shingly surface; and their motions,
-though so light, send the loose fragments down, like the fall of
-a glacier.&nbsp; As I stood gazing on the awful depth beneath,
-four large pieces of rock rolled into the centre of the road, not
-ten yards from the place where I was standing, the smallest of
-which, had it touched me, would have caused instant death, or
-disabled me in such a manner as to have prevented my venturing
-upon a second tour.&nbsp; I turned my eyes above, and thought
-upon the legend of Dolbadarn; and my blood chilled to think, if,
-by any chance, a steed and rider should be precipitated over its
-brow&mdash;what a spectacle they would exhibit at its base!&nbsp;
-But, at the time of the legend, there was scarce footing for a
-goat to pass along, and nothing to interrupt the parties from
-finally plunging into the sea.</p>
-<p><a name="page354"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-354</span>&ldquo;When last I visited this spot,&rdquo; said my
-companion, &ldquo;I observed a man sitting by the road side, with
-his hands clasped, his elbows resting upon his knees, and his
-face bespeaking feelings of deep sorrow.&nbsp; I have a strong
-aversion to intruding on the secrets of others; but this lorn
-man, seated in such a solitary situation, and forming so
-interesting a foreground in the picture, made me desirous of
-entering into conversation with him, in order to discover the
-source of his grief.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;You seem to be in grief, my friend; can I do
-anything to relieve it?&rsquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;God bless you, sir, you cannot.&rsquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;May be otherwise, if you will tell me the
-cause.&rsquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;I&rsquo;ll tell you, sir; but it is out of your
-power to repair my loss.&rsquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;He then feelingly related the following simple
-tale.&rdquo;</p>
-<h3>THE PET GOAT.</h3>
-<p>About three years ago, sir, I married one of the prettiest
-girls you ever saw&mdash;an inhabitant of the neighbouring
-village.&nbsp; Her good heart was light, and her hand always open
-to the <a name="page355"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-355</span>stranger and the poor, as far as our means could
-afford.&nbsp; We were married in the little church of Aber, and a
-merry one was our wedding day.&nbsp; Her mother gave me a young
-kid upon the occasion, which we took home with us and brought up
-in the cottage, as you would a dog that you loved for the
-giver&rsquo;s sake; and for its own sake I loved the pretty
-animal.&nbsp; It was as playful and as gentle as a kitten; and I
-taught it a number of tricks that greatly amused all our
-neighbours.&nbsp; Truan hyny!&nbsp; At length, my poor Mary
-brought me a boy, but she, poor girl, was too delicate to suckle
-the infant, and my gentle goat, that had lately brought forth two
-kids, supplied us with milk for the child, who did well, and God
-be praised, still does well;&mdash;my poor pet was the saving of
-his life.&nbsp; Well, I went to my work, as usual, and Mary made
-my home a heaven upon earth;&mdash;for she was an angel, and
-furnished me with every comfort that mortal could desire.&nbsp;
-God bless her!&mdash;and she is blessed, if goodness finds bliss
-in heaven, which no one doubts.</p>
-<p>Well, sir, a second year flew away quickly, and my partner
-brought me forth twins&mdash;the sweetest babes eyes ever looked
-upon, and so like each other, you couldn&rsquo;t tell which was
-<a name="page356"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 356</span>which;
-so we tied a ribbon upon Mary&rsquo;s arm, to distinguish her
-from Kate.&nbsp; Well, my poor pet goat again stood wet nurse to
-the offspring; and my wife recovered her health and beautiful
-looks; our evenings passed in talking of what we should do for
-them, when they grew up.&nbsp; Ah, sir, it would have done your
-heart good to have seen her blue eyes turned up to the sky,
-imploring blessings upon their innocent heads, and every night
-kneel down to pray to her Creator, for mercy on herself and me!
-although He knows better than I do, that she was as free from
-soil as the waters of the rocky rill, and you might see her heart
-as clearly as the pebbles at its bottom.&nbsp; Ah! that was a
-sight for good men to look upon, and be thankful that they had
-seen it.&nbsp; You&rsquo;ll excuse me, sir; but I can&rsquo;t
-help shedding tears, when I think upon the fate of poor
-Mary!&mdash;gwae! gwae!</p>
-<p>The pet goat, sir, was wandering upon the shelving rocks which
-now hang over us, and there were many others above.&nbsp; Do you
-see that, sir, with one of its horns nearly straight, just upon
-the edge of that projecting mass?&nbsp; Just beneath that she was
-browsing, when, all of a sudden, a large piece fell from the brow
-of the mountain, and, lighting upon the body of my <a
-name="page357"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 357</span>favourite,
-she was dashed into the centre of the road, just where we are now
-standing; and, when I ran to her the look of her bright grey eyes
-went to my heart&mdash;poor thing!&nbsp; I never saw anything
-more affectionate in a christian; for her looks spoke more than
-any words I ever heard in the way of gratitude; and she licked my
-hand, poor dumb beast! and sighed, and died without a groan, poor
-thing! poor thing! (and he wept in the bitterness of his
-feeling.)</p>
-<p>You may wonder, sir, that I should cry so, when I tell you
-about the death of a goat; but it is the consequences attendant
-upon it that wring the tears from my eyes.&nbsp; When poor pet
-died, my wife was obliged to nurse her young twins, for no woman
-could be found in the neighbourhood to assist her, and I
-couldn&rsquo;t afford to buy another goat, and I couldn&rsquo;t
-bear to ask for milk which I wasn&rsquo;t able to pay for, for
-all somehow went wrong with me after the loss of our
-favourite.&nbsp; Mary grew weaker and weaker every day, and I
-couldn&rsquo;t go to my work, and leave her, without any one to
-watch over her.&nbsp; My spirit was broken, and I cared for
-nothing in the world, but attending the sick bed of Mary and the
-children.&nbsp; To be sure, I managed to get enough for the
-support of life; but <a name="page358"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 358</span>the twins couldn&rsquo;t eat the
-food I brought them.&nbsp; The mother had not milk enough to
-support them; and I saw her, day by day, sinking under the
-affliction I had no power to soften.&nbsp; At length, my two
-pretty babes died, one after the other, and Mary&rsquo;s heart
-broke to see the stroke of Providence.&nbsp; She died too, sir,
-and with her all that made life dear to me, except my poor little
-boy.&nbsp; I shall never, never recover! and I know that the sod
-will shortly be laid upon my head, by the side of the grave where
-rest the bones of my dear Mary.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>The numerous accidents that have happened on this mountain
-render it an object of awful interest.&nbsp; Mr. Pennant, in his
-tour, relates the following circumstances:</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The Rev. Mr. Jones, who in 1762 was the
-Rector of Llanelian in the Isle of Anglesea, fell, with his horse
-and a midwife behind him, down the steepest part.&nbsp; The
-<i>sage-femme</i> perished, as did the nag.&nbsp; The divine,
-however, with great philosophy, unsaddled the steed, and marched
-off with the trappings, exulting at his preservation.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>He relates another accident, that occurred here, in the
-following words:</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;I have often heard of another accident, <a
-name="page359"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 359</span>attended
-with such romantic circumstances, that I would not venture to
-mention it, had I not the strongest traditional authority to this
-day, in the mouth of every one in the parish of Llanfair Fechan,
-in which this promontory stands.&nbsp; Sion Humphreys, of this
-parish, paid his addresses to Ann Thomas, of Creuddyn, on the
-other side of the Conway river.&nbsp; They had made an
-appointment to meet at a fair in the town of Conway.&nbsp; He in
-his way fell over Penmaen Mawr.&nbsp; She was overset in the
-ferry boat, and was the only person saved out of fourscore!&nbsp;
-They were married, and lived very long together in the parish of
-Llanfair.&nbsp; She was buried April 11th, 1744, aged 116.&nbsp;
-He survived her five years, and was buried Dec. 1749, close by
-her in the parish church yard, where their graves are familiarly
-shown to this day.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>On the summit of a hill, in the neighbourhood of Penmaen Mawr,
-are the ruins of an ancient British camp, of vast magnitude,
-which was deemed impregnable.&nbsp; It is a site of considerable
-interest, as well for its antiquity, as for the magnificent
-prospect which it commands of the ocean, the Isle of Anglesea,
-the straits, the Ormes head, the island of Priestholm, the
-beautiful <a name="page360"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-360</span>town of Beaumauris, and the chain of Snowdonia, of
-which it is the terminating link.</p>
-<p>Having passed round the frightful promontory of Penmaen Mawr,
-by the admirable road which, with incredible labour, has been cut
-by government, at the expense of &pound;10,000, and forms a belt
-to the mountain, the country becomes more fertile; the
-plantations are larger, and more numerous, and the hills are
-clothed with verdure, which never appears upon the wild forehead
-of that frowning mass; and hedges rise on either side of the
-road, through which the eye is pleased with the sight of waving
-fields of grain, until we reach the picturesque village of</p>
-<h3>ABER.</h3>
-<p>The name of the inn here is the Bulkley Arms, and a more
-comfortable hostel, for one who travels in search of the beauties
-of nature, cannot be desired; although, to the fastidious, it
-may, perhaps, be thought too small, and to the luxurious it may
-not offer the viands which he covets.&nbsp; For myself, give me
-the room overlooking the beautiful little garden which sends its
-thousand perfumes into the apartment, when the sun goes down and
-the <a name="page361"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 361</span>moon
-lights up the Menai with her silver beams!&nbsp; Let me sit,
-silent and alone, there&mdash;there, where &ldquo;heavenly
-pensive contemplation dwells.&rdquo;&nbsp; At the entrance to the
-glen, upon its eastern side, is a very high artificial mound,
-flat at the top, which is said to be the site of a castle
-belonging to Llewellyn the great.&nbsp; On it stands the house of
-Mr. Crawley, a sketch of which, with the glen, is annexed.&nbsp;
-It was taken from under the arch of the bridge, and gives a
-better idea of the scene than words have power to convey.</p>
-<p>The mountain, on the eastern side of the vale is clothed with
-oak and ash trees; but, upon the west, there is no foliage.&nbsp;
-The river rushes with great impetuosity after a flood, from its
-mountain fall, into the Menai straits, winding through the glen,
-and encircling several rocky islets in its course.&nbsp; The fall
-is about a mile and a half up the stream, and, at the extremity
-of the vale, a convex mountain rises, down which it leaps, from a
-height of about sixty feet; and there is said to be a large stone
-here, on which the army of Llewellyn sharpened their spears and
-arrows; and the marks are still shown to the tourist.</p>
-<p>But the prospect from the bridge, which crosses the stream, on
-the road to Conway, is <a name="page362"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 362</span>the most interesting; from this spot
-you command a view of the river, at its greatest magnitude,
-sparkling along its rock-impeded course, and behold it dancing
-and foaming, as if with joy, into the salts, like a child
-bounding to its mother.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p362b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Aber"
-title=
-"Aber"
- src="images/p362s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>The following short poem is founded upon a tradition connected
-with this place.&nbsp; It was twilight when the muse flew in at
-the window, and at that endearing time I yielded to her
-influence.&nbsp; The story is well known to every villager of
-this delightful neighbourhood.</p>
-<h3>LLEWELYN AND THE CAPTIVE KNIGHT.</h3>
-<blockquote><p>Oh! who is he that rides along<br />
-So proudly on his charger strong,<br />
-Amid yon gay and gallant throng<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Through Aber&rsquo;s lonely vale?</p>
-<p>With plumed casque upon his head,<br />
-And mace at saddle bow so red,<br />
-And battle brand, the foeman&rsquo;s dread,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And glittering shirt of mail?</p>
-<p>&rsquo;Tis ancient Cambria&rsquo;s pride and boast,<br />
-Her hope, her strength, her chief, her host,<br />
-Whose fame she spreads from coast to coast.<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And trumpets to the sky!</p>
-<p><a name="page363"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 363</span>And
-Saxon blood is on his mace,<br />
-And gouts his shining blade deface,<br />
-Hail, bravest of the bravest race!<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And pride of chivalry!</p>
-<p>And who is she, so peerless fair,<br />
-With full dark eye, of lustre rare,<br />
-And snowy neck, and raven hair,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; On palfrey by his side?</p>
-<p>With native gems upon her vest,<br />
-Snowdonia&rsquo;s own&mdash;Snowdonia&rsquo;s best,<br />
-Rising and sinking on her breast,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And glance of royal pride?</p>
-<p>The noblest lady of the land,<br />
-(For she with him joined hand to hand<br />
-In wedlock&rsquo;s stout and holy band),<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Llewelyn&rsquo;s noble dame.</p>
-<p>For her do bards their praises sing,<br />
-And minstrels strike the sounding string,<br />
-Till mountains high and valleys ring<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; With fair Johanna&rsquo;s name!</p>
-<p>And who is he with drooping plume,<br />
-And golden locks, and brow of gloom,<br />
-Whose cheek hath lost its manly bloom,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And sorrow speaking eye?</p>
-<p>William de Breos is he hight,<br />
-A courtier fair and gallant knight,<br />
-Ta&rsquo;en by Llewelyn in the fight<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Before Montgomery.</p>
-<p><a name="page364"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 364</span>Oh!
-&rsquo;tis a glorious sight to see<br />
-The marshalled ranks of liberty,<br />
-With banners waving high and free,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Wind down the hollow vale;</p>
-<p>Their broad swords flashing in the sun,<br />
-And spears too bright to look upon,<br />
-Returning from the field they&rsquo;ve won,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And from the foeman pale.</p>
-<p>The prince within his castle wall,<br />
-There rose a shout from one and all,<br />
-That shook the mountain&rsquo;s rocky hall,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And made the welkin ring.</p>
-<p>And gaily passed the wassail bowl,<br />
-While bards poured out the song of soul,<br />
-And martial music crowned the whole,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Time moved on pleasure&rsquo;s wing.</p>
-<p>But pleasure&rsquo;s wing may sometimes lose<br />
-Its plumage bright, of varied hues,<br />
-And time grow dark with sorrow&rsquo;s dews,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And cloak itself in care.</p>
-<p>And eyes that wanton love inspire,<br />
-And blaze with light of fierce desire<br />
-Be quenched in floods of anguish dire,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And wither in despair!</p>
-<p>Months rolled away, and while in war,<br />
-Llewelyn shone the leading star,<br />
-The knight and dame, in pleasure&rsquo;s car,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Rolled rapidly along.</p>
-<p><a name="page365"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 365</span>Guilt
-smiled upon their couch of down,<br />
-But o&rsquo;er them was an angel&rsquo;s frown,<br />
-Till their adult&rsquo;ry, bolder grown,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Became a ribald song.</p>
-<p>Llewelyn to his home returned,<br />
-Unconscious of his wrong, and burn&rsquo;d<br />
-To meet the welcome he had earned<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; In glory&rsquo;s sanguine field.</p>
-<p>Cold was the heart he thought his own,<br />
-And colder had his welcome grown,<br />
-And on his forehead sat a frown,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Which half his fears revealed.</p>
-<p>Unransomed to his Saxon home,<br />
-With promises of gifts to come,<br />
-Southward he bade De Breos roam,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And gave him friendly grasp.</p>
-<p>The lady wept, Llewelyn smiled,<br />
-&ldquo;Yield not, sweet wife, to sorrow wild,<br />
-For friendship is a feeling mild;<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Her hand De Breos clasp.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>The Knight departed on his steed,<br />
-With twenty horsemen for his need,<br />
-To guard him over mount and mead,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; To fair Montgomory.</p>
-<p>But, when he saw the Knight depart,<br />
-Full jealous grew Llewelyn&rsquo;s heart,<br />
-&ldquo;Oh can dissimulation&rsquo;s dart<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Live in Johanna&rsquo;s eye?&rdquo;</p>
-<p><a name="page366"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 366</span>Dark
-rumours reached his tortured ear,<br />
-He gazed upon his lady near,<br />
-And vengeance whispered &ldquo;Chieftain, here<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Must the foul spoiler die.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>A month had scarcely rolled away,<br />
-When to the Knight, so proud and gay,<br />
-Predestined for revenge&rsquo;s prey<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; He sent a Herald light.</p>
-<p>With soothing speech, and present rare,<br />
-And invitation to repair<br />
-With speed of horse, and heedful care,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; To Aber&rsquo;s Castle bright.</p>
-<p>The Herald well De Breos knew,<br />
-On wings of guilty love he flew,<br />
-His foul dishonour to renew<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; With great Llewelyn&rsquo;s dame.</p>
-<p>But fatal was the meeting now,<br />
-Llewelyn knit his dreadful brow,<br />
-His angry blood began to glow,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And in his eye was flame.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Down with the slave to dungeon dark!<br />
-Disgrace to knighthood, hear and mark!<br />
-Upon the gibbet, cold and stark,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; To-morrow shalt thou hang.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;No more to whisper, fawn and lie&mdash;<br />
-No more to gaze with wanton eye,<br />
-No more to mix with chivalry,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Or hear its martial clang.&rdquo;</p>
-<p><a name="page367"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-367</span>Johanna knows not of the fate<br />
-That on her paramour doth wait;<br />
-But e&rsquo;er the sun through heaven&rsquo;s gate<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Rolls forth to gild the sea;</p>
-<p>Three taps upon her chamber door,<br />
-Hath roused her from her dreams of yore,<br />
-And stern upon her rush-strewn floor<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Llewelyn doth she see.</p>
-<p>He seized her by the raven hair<br />
-&ldquo;What wouldst thou give, my lady fair.<br />
-To see that Knight, so debonair,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; De Breos, once again?&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Strong Aber&rsquo;s castle which we dwell in,<br />
-Wales, fair England, and Llewelyn,<br />
-All I&rsquo;d give to see my Gwilym,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; But all I wish in vain.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>He dragged her from her secret bower,<br />
-While thunder on his brow did lower,<br />
-And pointed to the falcon tower,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; &ldquo;Behold, false dame,&rdquo; he cried,</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Behold once more the traitor fell,<br />
-On gallows hung, while fiends in hell<br />
-Are shouting forth his passing knell.&rdquo;<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; The lady looked&mdash;and died.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The road from Aber to Bangor is replete with interesting
-scenery.&nbsp; The mountains assume a <a name="page368"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 368</span>dark and gloomy grandeur, half clad
-in rolling vapours, which at intervals reveal their black and
-purple forms, their barren summits and deep hollows, to the
-eye.&nbsp; Towering above them all, Benclog rises conspicuous,
-into whose threatening gorge the road to Capel Curig winds, like
-a snake venturing into some monster&rsquo;s jaws which appears
-ready to devour it.&nbsp; Upon the right, the shores of Anglesea,
-with its luxuriant woods, are seen stretching down to the Menai,
-and agreeably diversify the scene.&nbsp; Before us rose the lofty
-towers of Penrhyn Castle, with Port Penrhyn and its shipping in
-the distance.&nbsp; Altogether, the prospect is glorious, and the
-finest effects I ever saw produced by mountain scenery are
-continually varying here; for, however bright the day may be upon
-the straights, and along their shores, the Canaervonshire
-mountains are generally half concealed by mists, upon which the
-sunbeams fall, causing them to assume countless hues of the most
-brilliant nature, which contrast finely with the ponderous forms
-round which they play in never ceasing variety.</p>
-<p>Near the spot where the London road branches off from the
-Chester, is the grand entrance to Penrhyn Castle, the property of
-G. H. D. Pennant <a name="page369"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-369</span>Esq.&nbsp; The lodge is a beautiful specimen of
-substantial architecture; it is protected by a corresponding
-gateway, massive and imposing.&nbsp; The park wall extends
-circularly seven miles, and is thirteen feet high.&nbsp; To
-describe the magnificence of the interior of the castle I feel
-would prove a vain effort, and I earnestly recommend all tourists
-who take this route not to quit the neighbourhood without seeing
-it, or they will be reproached for slighting one of the grandest
-treats old Cambria can afford them.</p>
-<h3>BANGOR.</h3>
-<p>This town derives its name from Ban Cor, which means the high
-choir.</p>
-<p>We stopped at the Penrhyn Arms, a most commodious inn, which
-is capable, it is said, of making up one hundred beds
-nightly.&nbsp; It occupies a commanding situation, and from the
-back premises embraces a noble prospect&mdash;the straights, the
-shore of Anglesea, the bay of Beaumauris, Penrhyn Castle, Puffin
-Island, Paenman Mawr, and the Great Orme&rsquo;s Head, with the
-ocean in the distance.</p>
-<p>There are other excellent inns in the town, <a
-name="page370"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 370</span>namely the
-Castle, the Liverpool arms, and the Albion: the latter, kept by
-Hughs, is extremely comfortable, and the landlord civil and
-obliging, as I most willingly testify from experience.&nbsp;
-There is no place in Wales so well calculated for a tourist to
-make his head quarters as Bangor.&nbsp; The various spots he may
-visit by appropriating a day to each, would supply him with
-gratification for a month at least.</p>
-<h3>THE CATHEDRAL</h3>
-<p>was founded by Maelgwn Gwynedd, King of Wales, of whom I have
-had occasion to speak before, as the patron of Taliesin, the
-celebrated Welsh bard.</p>
-<p>The original edifice, which was erected in 525, was destroyed
-in 1071, and rebuilt shortly after, but was again reduced to
-ruins by Owen Glyndwr, and for ninety years was neglected, until
-Bishop Dean restored the choir, and the body of the tower was
-rebuilt by Bishop Skeffington, in 1532, which still remains in a
-perfect state of preservation.&nbsp; The free school was founded
-in 1557, by Dr. Jeffry Glynn, upon the site of an ancient parish
-church, built by King Edgar, <a name="page371"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 371</span>within about 400 yards of the
-present cathedral, and is considered an excellent preparatory
-seminary for Oxford and Cambridge.</p>
-<p>The remains of an ancient castle, built by Hugh Lupus, Earl of
-Chester, in the reign of Henry II, are still visible upon a rock
-opposite to the free school, and some pieces of scoria, found on
-the spot, lead us to suppose arrows were manufactured
-there.&nbsp; At the back of the friar&rsquo;s school is another
-hill, and on the top of it are the remains of a British
-encampment.</p>
-<p>The town, within the last twenty years, has been extended to
-nearly four times its original magnitude, and possesses an
-appearance of cleanliness particularly gratifying.&nbsp; The
-London mail passes to and fro every day, as does the Chester and
-Liverpool; and two daily coaches also start for London, one to
-Chester and Liverpool, two to Caernarvon, and a mail to
-Pwllheli.&nbsp; The great lion of Bangor is</p>
-<h3>THE MENAI BRIDGE.</h3>
-<p>The principal opening between the supporting pyramids is 560
-feet in breadth, through which the vessels pass with all their
-canvass set, without the least danger of their masts touching the
-<a name="page372"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-372</span>overhanging bridge.&nbsp; There are four stone arches
-upon the Anglesea side, and three upon the Carnaervon, which
-complete the road way, and have each a span of fifty feet.&nbsp;
-The length of the bridge is 800 feet, and its height is 100 feet
-above the surface of the Menai at high water.&nbsp; The weight of
-the bridge and its suspending chains, between the pyramids, is
-six hundred and thirty-nine tons, nineteen hundred and nine
-pounds; and that of the ironwork from one extremity of the chains
-to the other is estimated at 2130 tons, 1800 consisting of
-wrought, and three hundred and thirty of cast iron.</p>
-<p>The first stone of this astonishing work was laid by W. A.
-Provis Esq., on the 10th August, 1820; and on the 20th April,
-1825, the first main chain was thrown across the strait.&nbsp;
-This important step being completed, three of the workmen, in the
-height of their enthusiasm, ventured to walk along the chain from
-pyramid to pyramid; and a cobbler no less daring and
-enthusiastic, seated himself in the centre of the curve, and,
-while suspended at the fearful height, with sky above and the
-deep water of the strait gliding beneath him, drove the last
-sparable into one of those convenient comforts called clogs.</p>
-<p><a name="page373"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 373</span>The
-view from the centre of the bridge beggars description.&nbsp;
-Waving woods, barren precipices, distant mountains, Bangor and
-Beaumauris, Penrhyn Castle, Paenman Mawr, the Great Orme&rsquo;s
-Head, the ocean, and the strait, are objects that dazzle and
-astonish from the exquisite beauty of their natural
-arrangement.</p>
-<p>My task is done.&nbsp; I have taken leave of my phrenological
-friend; the steam boat is dropping slowly to Garth point to take
-in passengers for Liverpool; and I must now quit this lovely
-land&mdash;never perhaps to see it more.&nbsp; But let me hope
-the sketches I have given of its various charms will induce
-others to take the path which I have pursued with so much
-pleasure.&nbsp; It leads through the most interesting portion of
-the country.&nbsp; For the artist, there is an inexhaustible
-store of beauty.&nbsp; The geologist and mineralogist will find
-the lore they thirst for, in almost every hill and valley,
-through which they pass.&nbsp; The smoke-dried citizen may have
-the London <i>blacks</i> blown from his garments by the healthful
-mountain breeze, and drink huge draughts of the pure air until he
-feels intoxicated with pleasure, while he is enabled to supply
-himself cheaply with a valuable stock of delightful recollections
-that will enable him, at any time, to raise a visionary paradise
-<a name="page374"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 374</span>around
-him&mdash;to banish painful thoughts; for, in fine, pain must
-give place to pleasure, gloom to sunshine, blue devils to
-hilarity, and sickness to invigorating health, in the enchanting
-principality of <span class="smcap">North Wales</span>.</p>
-<h2><a name="page375"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-375</span>APPENDIX.</h2>
-<h3>SNOWDON</h3>
-<p><span class="smcap">First</span> received its name from the
-Saxons, and signifies a mountain covered with snow.&nbsp; It was
-held sacred by the Ancient Britons, who believed that those who
-slept upon it became inspired.&nbsp; The perpendicular height of
-the mountain is 1190 yards, and, as the state of the atmosphere
-hindered me from attempting the ascent, I have selected the
-accounts of the most celebrated tourists for the benefit of those
-who may be more fortunate than I was.</p>
-<h3>MR. PENNANT&rsquo;S ASCENT.</h3>
-<p>&ldquo;Ascend above <i>Cwm Brwynog</i> a very deep
-bottom.&nbsp; In the course of our ascent, saw on the left above
-the Cwm, <i>Moel y Cynghorion</i>, or the Hill of Council; pass
-through <i>Bwlch Maes-y-cwm</i>, and skirt the side of Snowdon,
-till we reach <i>Bwlch Cwm Brwynog</i>, where the ascent becomes
-very difficult on account of its vast steepness; people here
-usually quit their horses.&nbsp; We began a toilsome march,
-clambering among the rocks.&nbsp; On the left were the precipices
-over <i>Brwynog</i> with <i>Llyn Du yr Arddwy</i> at their foot;
-on our right, were those over the small lakes <i>Llyn
-Gl&acirc;s</i>, <i>Llyn y Naddroed</i>, and <i>Llyn
-C&ocirc;ch</i>.&nbsp; The last is the <a name="page376"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 376</span>highest on this side the mountain;
-and on whose margins, we were told that in fairy days, those
-diminutive gentry kept their revels.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;This space between precipice and precipice formed a
-short and no very agreeable isthmus, till we reached a verdant
-expanse which gave us some respite before we laboured up another
-series of broken crags; after these is a second smooth tract,
-which reaches almost to the summit, and by way of pre-eminence is
-styled <i>Y Wyddfa</i>, or The Conspicuous.&nbsp; It rises almost
-to a point, or at least there is but room for a circular wall of
-loose stones, within which travellers usually take their
-repast.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;The view from this exalted situation is
-unbounded.&nbsp; In a former tour I saw from it the hills of
-Yorkshire, part of the north of England, Scotland, and Ireland; a
-plain view of the Isle of Man, and that of Anglesey lay extended
-like a map beneath me with every rill visible.&nbsp; I took much
-pains to see this prospect to advantage, sat up at a farm on the
-west till about twelve, and walked up the whole way.&nbsp; The
-night was remarkably fine and starry: towards morn, the stars
-faded away, and left a short interval of darkness, which soon
-dispersed by the dawning of the day.&nbsp; The body of the sun
-appeared most distinct with the rotundity of the moon, before it
-rose high enough to render its beams too brilliant for our
-sight.&nbsp; The sea which bounded the western part was gilt by
-its rays, first in slender streaks, at length glowing with
-redness.&nbsp; The prospect was disclosed like the gradual
-drawing up of a curtain in a theatre.&nbsp; We saw more and more
-till the heat became so powerful as to attract the mists from the
-various lakes, which in a slight degree obscured the
-prospect.&nbsp; The shadow of the mountain was flung many miles,
-and shewed its bicapitated form; the <i>Wyddfa</i> making one,
-<i>Crib y Dysdyll</i> the other head.&nbsp; <a
-name="page377"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 377</span>I counted
-this time between twenty and thirty lakes either in this county,
-or Merionethshire.&nbsp; The day proved so excessively hot, that
-my journey cost me the skin of the lower part of my face before I
-reached the resting place.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>At another visit, the same celebrated traveller
-remarks&mdash;&ldquo;On this day, the sky was obscured very soon
-after I got up; a vast mist enveloped the whole circuit of the
-mountain; the prospect down was horrible.&nbsp; It gave an idea
-of numbers of abysses concealed by a thick smoke, furiously
-circulating round us.&nbsp; Very often a gust of wind formed an
-opening in the clouds, which gave a fine and distinct view of
-lake and valley.&nbsp; Sometimes, they opened only in one place,
-at others in many at once, exhibiting a most strange and
-perplexing view of water, fields, rocks or chasms, in fifty
-different places.&nbsp; They then closed at once, and left us
-involved in darkness; in a short time, they would separate again,
-and fly in wild eddies round the middle of the mountains, and
-expose in parts both tops and bases clear to our view.&nbsp; We
-descended from this various scene with great reluctance, but
-before we reached our horses a thunder storm overtook us.&nbsp;
-Its rolling among the mountains was inexpressibly awful, the rain
-uncommonly heavy.&nbsp; We remounted our horses, and gained the
-bottom with great hazard.&nbsp; The little rills which on our
-ascent trickled along the gullies on the sides of the mountain,
-were now swelled into torrents, and we and our steeds passed with
-the utmost risk of being swept away by these sudden waters.&nbsp;
-At length, we arrived safe, yet sufficiently wet and weary, to
-our former quarters.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;It is very seldom that the traveller gets a propitious
-day to ascend Snowdon; for often when it appears clear, it
-becomes suddenly and unexpectedly enveloped in mist by its <a
-name="page378"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 378</span>attraction
-of clouds, which just before seemed remote and at great
-heights.&nbsp; At times, I have observed them lower to half their
-heights, and notwithstanding they have been dispersed to the
-right and to the left, yet they have met from both sides and
-united to involve the summit in one great obscurity.&nbsp; The
-quantity of water which flows from the lakes of Snowdonia is very
-considerable; so much, that I doubt not but collectively they
-would exceed the waters of the Thames before it meets the conflux
-of the ocean.&rdquo;</p>
-<h3>MR. BINGLEY&rsquo;S ASCENT.</h3>
-<p>This industrious and persevering traveller observes: &ldquo;I
-had made a determination soon after I came into Wales, that I
-would ascend Snowdon by all the tracks that are usually pointed
-out to travellers.&rdquo;&nbsp; This gentleman had already
-accomplished the task in three instances, his routes being first
-from D&ocirc;lbadarn Castle, secondly from Llanberis, and thirdly
-from Llyn Cwellyn.&nbsp; The fourth, the description of which we
-are about to borrow, as more descriptive than any of the others,
-is the route from Bedd-gelert.&nbsp; He says: &ldquo;The distance
-from Bedd-gelert to the summit, being reckoned not less than six
-miles, and a lady being one of our number, it was thought most
-eligible for her to ride as far as she could without danger, and
-for the rest to walk the whole of the way.&nbsp; In this manner
-therefore, we set out, commencing our <i>mountain</i> journey by
-turning to the right, from the Caernarvon road, at the distance
-of about two miles and a half from the village.&nbsp; We left the
-horse at a cottage, about half way up, from whence taking a <a
-name="page379"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 379</span>bottle of
-milk to mix with some rum that we had brought along with us, we
-continued our route over a series of pointed and craggy
-rocks.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Stopping at different times to rest, we enjoyed to the
-utmost the prospects that by degrees were opening round us.&nbsp;
-Caernarvon and the Isle of Anglesey, aided by the brightness of
-the morning, were seen to great advantage; and Cwellyn below us,
-shaded by the vast Mynydd Mawr, with Castell Cidwu at its foot,
-appeared extremely beautiful.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;In ascending the mountains, which from below seemed of
-immense height, they began now to appear beneath us; the lakes
-and valleys were more exposed, and all the little rills and
-mountain streams by degrees became visible to us, like silver
-lines intersecting the hollows around.&nbsp; Towards the upper
-part of the mountain, we passed over a tremendous ridge of rock,
-called <i>Clawdd C&ocirc;ch</i>, the Red Ridge.&nbsp; This narrow
-pass, not more than ten or twelve feet across, and two or three
-hundred yards in length was so steep that the eye reached on each
-side, down the whole extent of the mountain.&nbsp; And I am
-persuaded that in some parts of it if a person held a large stone
-in each hand, and let them both fell at once, each might roll
-above a quarter of a mile, and thus when they stopped they might
-be more than half a mile asunder.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;The lady who accompanied us, to my great surprise,
-passed the ridge without the least apparent signs of fear or
-trepidation.&nbsp; There is no danger whatever in passing Clawdd
-C&ocirc;ch in the day-time, but I must confess that I should by
-no means like to venture along this tract in the night, as many
-do who have never seen it.&nbsp; If the moon shone very bright,
-we might, it is true, escape unhurt, but a dark cloud coming
-suddenly over would certainly expose us to much danger.&nbsp;
-Many instances have occurred of persons who having passed over it
-in the <a name="page380"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-380</span>night were so terrified at seeing it by daylight the
-next morning, that they have not dared to return the same way,
-but have gone a very circuitous round by Bettws.&nbsp; I was
-informed that one gentleman had been so much alarmed, that he
-crawled over it back again on his hands and knees.&nbsp; In the
-hollow on the left of the ascent are four small pools, called
-<i>Llyn C&ocirc;ch</i>, the red pool; <i>Llyn Gl&acirc;s</i>, the
-blue pool; <i>Llyn y Nadroedd</i>, the adder&rsquo;s pool; and
-<i>Llyn Ffynnon y Gw&acirc;s</i>, the servant&rsquo;s pool.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Soon after we had passed Clawdd C&ocirc;ch, we became
-immersed in light clouds, till we arrived at the summit of the
-mountain, when a single gleam of sunshine, which lasted but for a
-moment, presented us with the majestic scenery on the west of our
-station.&nbsp; It served only, however, to tantalize our hopes;
-for a smart gust of wind again obscured us in clouds.&nbsp; We
-now sheltered ourselves from the cold, under some of the
-projecting rocks near the top, and ate our dinners, watching with
-anxiety the dark shades in the clouds, in hopes that a separation
-might take place, and that we should be once more delighted with
-a sight of the grand objects around us.&nbsp; We did not watch in
-vain, for the clouds by degrees cleared away, and left us at full
-liberty to admire the numerous beauties in this expansive
-scene.&nbsp; The steep rock of <i>Clogwn y Garnedd</i>, whose
-dreadful precipices are some of them above two hundred yards in
-perpendicular height, and the whole rock, a series of precipices,
-was an object which first struck one of my companions with
-terror, and he exclaimed almost involuntarily,</p>
-
-<blockquote><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;How
-fearful<br />
-And dizzy &rsquo;tis to cast one&rsquo;s eye so low!<br />
-The crows and choughs that wing the mid-way air<br />
-Scarce shew so gross as beetles.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;We now stood on a point which commanded the whole <a
-name="page381"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 381</span>dome of the
-sky.&nbsp; The prospects below, each of which we had before
-considered separately as a grand scene, were now only miniature
-parts of the immense landscape.&nbsp; We had around us such a
-variety of mountains, valleys, lakes, and streams, each receding
-behind the ether, and bounded only by the far distant horizon,
-that the eye almost strained itself with looking upon them.&nbsp;
-These majestic prospects were soon shut from our sight by the
-gathering clouds, which now began to close in much heavier than
-they had done before; and it was in vain that we waited near an
-hour for another opening.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;We were, therefore, at length obliged to descend, in
-despair of being any more gratified with these sublime
-prospects.&nbsp; We again passed Clawd C&ocirc;ch, and soon
-afterwards, turning to the left, descended into the mountain
-vale, called <i>Cwm Llan</i>.&nbsp; We followed the course of a
-stream, which flows from thence into Llyn y Dinas, in Nant
-Gwynant.&nbsp; This little rivulet entertained us much in its
-descent, being in many places thrown over low rocks, forming
-small but sometimes elegant cascades.&nbsp; After a walk of two
-hours, we arrived in Nant Hwynan, the vale that I had traversed
-with so much pleasure a day or two before; and passing by Llyn y
-Dinas, and Dinas Emrys, soon afterwards reached Bedd-gelert, not
-a little fatigued with our mountain ramble.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I observed near a cottage in Cwm Llan, that several
-children were employed in gathering the berries of the mountain
-ash.&nbsp; On inquiring of the guide to what purpose this was
-done, he informed me that the Welsh people brew from them a
-liquor which they call <i>D&iuml;od Gr&iuml;afol</i>.&nbsp; This,
-he said, was done by merely crushing the berries, and putting
-water to them, which, after remaining a fortnight, is drawn off
-for use.&nbsp; The flavour, as I understood him, was somewhat
-like that of perry.&rdquo;</p>
-<h3><a name="page382"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-382</span>ASCENT FROM DOLBADARN.</h3>
-<p>This account is taken from a small useful publication,
-entitled &ldquo;Guide to Bangor, Beaumaris, and Snowdonia,&rdquo;
-by Mr. John Smith, of Liverpool.&nbsp; The narrative is written
-by a friend of Mr. Smith, who, the latter informs us, was a
-companion of the late lamented Belzoni, and the period when the
-ascent was performed was the summer of 1825.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;It was about half-past twelve when we left our inn at
-D&ocirc;lbadarn, and I think a more lovely morning we could not
-be favoured with: nature did indeed seem at rest; not a cloud
-appeared to move, and a bright and nearly full moon, which had
-passed the meridian, seemed as if waiting to light us on our
-way.&nbsp; Our party consisted of three of the ladies, (the
-fourth not having strength for the task) Mr. M., myself, two
-gentlemen who joined us at D&ocirc;lbadarn, our guide, and his
-faithful dog.&nbsp; The ladies were furnished with a stout pony
-each, but the gentlemen preferred climbing on foot the steep
-ascent, and I believe, before they returned, repented heartily
-having done so.&nbsp; The guide was equipped with a leathern
-belt, to which was buckled a tin vessel containing water, and a
-staff which seemed well worn with the hard service in which it
-was employed.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;We proceeded across a small rivulet a short distance
-from the inn, and soon entered on a kind of mountain horse-path,
-composed of loose slate and stones, of which our pedestrians soon
-began to be weary.&nbsp; After ascending this about a mile, we
-arrived at a rough fence of turf and stones, where the road wound
-round the side of a mountain, and entered a kind of defile,
-through which we had to proceed.&nbsp; Here our guide desired us
-to look back at the view beneath us, and when we <a
-name="page383"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 383</span>did so, our
-feelings and expressions of delight and astonishment were
-general.&nbsp; Below us, the lake of Llanberis lay stretched like
-an immense mirror in the shade, with one bright silvery ray
-resting on its glassy surface, in which part of the steep
-mountains that surrounded it appeared reflected.&nbsp; To attempt
-to describe the beautiful and varying tints on those mountains
-would be as useless a task, as the most vivid colours would be
-foolishly employed in trying to represent them.&nbsp; In the
-distance and on our right, D&ocirc;lbadarn tower was just visible
-at the head of the lower lake, and on our left the inn,
-surrounded with the only trees in the neighbourhood, formed a
-striking object: we reflected with pleasure, as we looked towards
-it, that the lady whose health would not allow her to accompany
-us, was there enjoying a refreshing sleep, and would, when awake,
-be anxiously waiting for our return, and to hear the various
-accounts we should give of our expedition.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;We again turned our faces towards Snowdon, on the same
-road I have before mentioned, and the mild, yet awful and
-magnificent scene before us afforded abundant themes for
-conversation and remark.&nbsp; In three or four places light
-fleecy clouds, edged with silver by the moonbeam, and which at
-first appeared resting on the sides of the mountains, now seemed
-to be slowly rolling down their steep sides, and generally mixing
-with the deep gloom of the valleys below us.&nbsp; Though
-surrounded by nature&rsquo;s grandest works, I fancy some of the
-party were tired even here, as many inquiries had been made
-relative to the distance we had still to proceed.&nbsp; However,
-the guide, suddenly stopping, informed us we were now at the
-&lsquo;half-way house;&rsquo; but no house was to be seen, and on
-looking round for it, we could perceive nothing but a small
-stream which trickled down the steep, and which replenished our
-guide&rsquo;s water vessel, <a name="page384"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 384</span>which had been emptied some time
-before by the continual demands upon it. <a
-name="citation384"></a><a href="#footnote384"
-class="citation">[384]</a></p>
-<p>&ldquo;We had proceeded now about three miles, and left our
-slate road by passing through a small wicket which opened on the
-heath, near which the sagacity of one of the ponys surprised
-us.&nbsp; The poor animal was blind, and on arriving within three
-feet of the wicket, which was open, it drew up, and would not
-proceed till led through by the bridle.&nbsp; One would fancy it
-had almost numbered its paces.&nbsp; It is surprising with what
-safety and agility these animals walk over the steep paths and
-stones they have to pass; and the guide assured us that he had
-been in the habit of going with travellers nearly twenty years,
-and never knew a single accident occasioned by them.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;The soft heath we were now passing was a relief to our
-feet, though it was so steep that we were sometimes obliged to
-wait to regain breath.&nbsp; At this time, we were on the top of
-a hill, which we fancied was the last we had to mount before the
-peak of Snowdon, and willingly thought the summit of the bold
-front before us was to be the end of our journey.&nbsp; Thence
-the way was over a kind of ridge, perhaps forty yards wide, one
-side of which was perpendicular for several hundred feet, and the
-other so steep that no one could stop or steady himself upon
-it.&nbsp; Daylight now began to appear, to show us more
-distinctly the steeps we were amongst; and, though we well knew
-the breadth of the ridge was such that there could be no danger,
-yet I am sure we all felt that unpleasant sensation which few can
-approach the edge of a precipice without experiencing in some
-degree.&nbsp; Tremendous gusts of wind, too, which passed the
-long heath with a singular whizzing noise, giving warning of
-their approach, and almost blowing us off our feet as they
-assailed us, did not make any of us feel easier.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;However, we went boldly on without accident, except a
-<a name="page385"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 385</span>hat and
-bonnet blowing off, which were fortunately recovered, and nearly
-reached the top of what we had all taken to be our
-journey&rsquo;s end, when the guide exclaimed, pointing to a high
-peak before us, &ldquo;There is Snowdon top;&rdquo; and we had
-the mortification to find that we had still a climbing of
-three-quarters of a mile before us.&nbsp; This powerfully
-reminded us of a couplet by Pope:</p>
-<blockquote><p>&lsquo;The increasing prospect tires our wandering
-eyes,<br />
-Hills peep o&rsquo;er hills, and alps on alps arise.&rsquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>A few minutes more brought us to a small inclosure of stones,
-where the horses were put up, as they could proceed no further,
-and now the ladies were obliged to foot it.&nbsp; Here one of the
-gentlemen gave in, declaring he would proceed no further, and
-laid down on the moss, saying he would wait our return.&nbsp;
-Perhaps a little rest was of service to him, for he afterwards
-joined us on the top of Snowdon.&nbsp; The road here is along the
-edge of the steep side of the mountain, which is almost
-perpendicular, and is broken with large fragments of slate,
-stone, and spar, of various kinds, to the very summit, which to
-our great joy, we at last attained about half-past four
-o&rsquo;clock.&nbsp; Had we waited for months we could not have
-had a more beautiful time; as the guide expressed himself,
-&lsquo;Snowdon has its days, and this is one of
-them.&rsquo;&nbsp; We sat down; in a few minutes the moon, which
-had so favoured us, declined behind one of the western mountains,
-and almost at the same instant the red tints on the eastern
-horizon foretold the approach of the king of day, the effect of
-whose rising on such a scene as that below and around us, was the
-most magnificent sight we ever beheld.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>The descent is not related by the writer of the above
-description.&nbsp; I understand, however, it was merrily
-performed by all the party, whose fatigue in the expedition well
-qualified <a name="page386"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-386</span>them to feel the luxury of a few hours&rsquo; repose at
-D&ocirc;lbadarn.</p>
-<h3>PROSPECT FROM THE SUMMIT.</h3>
-<p>In the foregoing descriptions by three of our most respectable
-tourists, sufficient is contained to afford the traveller a
-tolerably good idea of the nature of the ascent to the top of
-Snowdon; and we shall only add the subjoined animated description
-of a view from its summit, by the author of the &ldquo;Beauties,
-Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;After climbing over masses of crags and rocks, we
-ascended the peak of Snowdon.&nbsp; Arrived at its summit, a
-scene presented itself, magnificent beyond the powers of
-language!&nbsp; Indeed, language is indigent and impotent when it
-would presume to sketch scenes on which the Great Eternal has
-placed his matchless finger with delight.&nbsp; Faint are thy
-broad and deep delineations, immortal Salvator Rosa!&nbsp;
-Powerless and feeble are your inspirations, genius of Thompson,
-Virgil, and Lucretius!</p>
-<p>&ldquo;From this point are seen five-and-twenty
-lakes.&mdash;Seated on one of the crags, it was long before the
-eye, unaccustomed to measure such elevations, could accommodate
-itself to scenes so admirable:&mdash;the whole appearing as if
-there had been a war of the elements; and as if we were the only
-inhabitants of the globe permitted to contemplate the ruins of
-the world.&nbsp; Rocks and mountains, which when observed from
-below, bear all the evidence of sublimity, when viewed from the
-summit of Snowdon, are blended with others as dark, as rugged,
-and as elevated as themselves; the whole resembling the swellings
-of an agitated ocean.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;The extent of this prospect appears almost
-unlimited.&nbsp; The <a name="page387"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 387</span>four kingdoms are seen at once:
-Wales, England, Scotland, and Ireland! forming the finest
-panorama the empire can boast.&nbsp; The circle begins with the
-mountains of Cumberland and Westmorland; those of Ingleborough
-and Penygent, in the county of York, and the hills of Lancashire
-follow; then are observed the counties of Chester, Flint,
-Denbigh, and a portion of Montgomeryshire.&nbsp; Nearly the whole
-of Merioneth succeeds; and drawing a line with the eye along the
-diameter of the circle, we take in the regions stretching from
-the triple crown of Cader Idris to the sterile crags of
-Carnedds-David and Llewellyn.&nbsp; Snowdon, rising in the
-centre, appears as if he could touch the south with his right
-hand, and the north with his left.&nbsp; &lsquo;Surely,&rsquo;
-thought Colonna, &lsquo;C&aelig;sar sat upon these crags when he
-formed the daring conception of governing the world!&rsquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;From Cader Idris the eye, pursuing the orbit of the
-bold geographical line, glances over the bay of Cardigan, and
-reposes for a while on the summit of the Rivals.&mdash;After
-observing the indented shores of Caernarvonshire, it travels over
-a long line of ocean, till in the extremity of the horizon the
-blue mountains of Wicklow terminate the perspective.&nbsp; Those
-mountains gradually sink along the coast till they are lost to
-the eye; which ranging along the expanse, at length, as weary of
-the journey, reposes on the Island of Man, and the distant
-mountains of Scotland.&nbsp; The intermediate space is occupied
-by the sides and summits of mountains, hollow crags, masses of
-rocks, the towers of Caernarvon, the fields of Anglesea, with
-woods, lakes, and glens, scattered in magnificent confusion.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;A scene like this commands our feelings to echo, as it
-were, in unison to its grandeur and sublimity.&nbsp; The thrill
-of astonishment, and the transport of imagination seem to contend
-for the mastery, and nerves are touched that never thrilled
-before.&nbsp; We seem as if our former existence were
-annihilated, <a name="page388"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-388</span>and as a new epoch were commenced.&nbsp; Another world
-opens upon us; and an unlimited orbit appears to display itself
-as a theatre for our ambition.&rdquo;</p>
-
-<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
-<h3>Page 266, line 5.</h3>
-<p>Among other ceremonies performed in the preparations for
-knighthood, the candidate went into a bath, which was symbolical
-of the purity of the soul.&nbsp; He was then placed in a bed,
-which signified the rest he was hereafter to enjoy in Paradise;
-and when he had slept, the Neophyte was clothed in a shirt, which
-white dress betokened the purity of his new
-character.&mdash;<i>See Miles&rsquo;s History of
-Chivalry</i>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
-<h3>Page 367.</h3>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;The lady looked&mdash;and died.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>According to poetical justice she certainly should have
-died.&nbsp; But the lady recovered, and her good natured lord not
-only forgave her this slip, but many others of a similar nature,
-and for her <i>earthly virtues</i> had her proclaimed a
-<i>heavenly saint</i>, after she had paid the debt of nature.</p>
-<h2><a name="page389"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-389</span>INDEX.</h2>
-<p class="gutlist">Aber, the &lsquo;Bulkely Arms,&rsquo; at,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page360">360</a></span>;
-scenery near, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page360">360</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page367">367</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Aber Glas Llynn, bridge at, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page237">237</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Abernodwydd, brook of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page114">114</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Actor, adventures related by an, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page34">34</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Alphabet, Welsh, power of some letters of the,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page5">5</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Appendix, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page385">385</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Ardudwy, pass of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page187">187</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Arran Fowddwy mountain, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page150">150</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Arrenig Vawr, hill of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page156">156</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page187">187</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist">Bala, scenery near, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page145">145</a></span>; inn at,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page151">151</a></span>,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page157">157</a></span>; Llyn
-Tegid, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page155">155</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page159">159</a></span>; the town of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page159">159</a></span>;
-Tommen-y-Bala, <i>ib.</i></p>
-<p class="gutlist">Bardsey Island, bards of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page186">186</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Barmouth, the &lsquo;Commercial Inn&rsquo; at,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page81">81</a></span>; town
-of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page183">183</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Beddgelert, the &lsquo;Goat Inn&rsquo; at,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page240">240</a></span>; the
-grave of Llewellyn&rsquo;s hound, Gelert, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page241">241</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Bettwys-y-Coed, iron bridge near, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page293">293</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Birmingham, halt at, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page21">21</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Butler, Lady Elinor, and Miss Ponsonby, their
-residence described, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page97">97</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Bwlch Tyddiad, romantic scenery of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page207">207</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist">Cader Idris, altitude of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page171">171</a></span>; traditions
-of, <span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page172">172</a></span>;
-views of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page179">179</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page209">209</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Caernarvonshire chain of hills described,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page185">185</a></span>,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page210">210</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Capel Curig, chapel, etc. at, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page286">286</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page291">291</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Car, jaunting, in Wales, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page163">163</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Cardigan Bay, scenery and rivers of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page219">219</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page233">233</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Carreg-y-Saeth, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page191">191</a></span>; its summit visited, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page209">209</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Celylin Point and Bay, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page181">181</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Chirk and the Ceriog river, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page57">57</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">&mdash; castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page68">68</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Closs, John, story of and monument to, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page282">282</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Conway, the &lsquo;Castle Inn&rsquo; at, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page324">324</a></span>; venerable
-buildings at, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page325">325</a></span>; description of the castle, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page326">326</a></span>; old
-customs at, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page331">331</a></span>; muscle pearl fishery, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page333">333</a></span>; ford at
-Dynas Gonway, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page334">334</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">&mdash; river, scenery of the, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page293">293</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page310">310</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page323">323</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page331">331</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Corwen, &lsquo;the Welsh Harp&rsquo; and
-&lsquo;Owen Glyndwr&rsquo; inns, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page138">138</a></span>; church and monuments, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page139">139</a></span>; new road,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page161">161</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Crafnant, the residence of Mr. Owen, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page190">190</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Cricaeth Castle and Promontory, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page218">218</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Cwym Bychan, Llyn-y, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page191">191</a></span>;
-traditional story, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page192">192</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist">Dale, Ann, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page124">124</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Dee, vale of the, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page86">86</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page96">96</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page121">121</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page129">129</a></span>; the river described, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page150">150</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Dinas Bran Castle, Llangollen, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page114">114</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">&mdash; Gorten, <i>see</i> Gorten.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Dolbadarn Castle, and Llyns Peris and Padarn,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page262">262</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">&mdash; legend of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page264">264</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page279">279</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Dolgelly, vale of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page165">165</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page171">171</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page173">173</a></span>; town of,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page173">173</a></span>; best
-inns at, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page175">175</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Doluwcheogryd, the residence of Roland
-Williams Esq. <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page179">179</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Dolwyddelan castle, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page287">287</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Drwstynrnt vale, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page164">164</a></span>, inn of, <i>ib.</i></p>
-<p class="gutlist">Dunchurch, the inn at, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page20">20</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Dwyryd, valley of the river, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page230">230</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist">Edeyrnion, vale of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page149">149</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Edward I. his wars in Wales, and strongholds
-built by, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page215">215</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page218">218</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page328">328</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Einion, gallantry of Dafydd-ap Ivan-ap, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page215">215</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">&mdash; Howel-ap-, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page109">109</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page112">112</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Eliseg, pillar of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page128">128</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Ellesmere canal, and aqueduct at Chirk, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page58">58</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Elphin, the Consolation of, a poem, by
-Taliesin, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page323">323</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Evans, Hugh, story of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page166">166</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist"><a name="page390"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-390</span>Festiniog, inns of the village of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page231">231</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Fron Fawr, the mountain of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page126">126</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist">Geirionydd, Llyn, antiquities at, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page322">322</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Giant&rsquo;s Nightcap, tradition of the stone
-so named, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page262">262</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Giraldus, Topography of Wales, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page288">288</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Glan Mawddach, loch at, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page180">180</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Gloddarth, the mansion of Lady Mostyn
-Champneys, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page334">334</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Glossary, Welsh, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page6">6</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Glyndwr, Owen, his manorial possessions, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page129">129</a></span>: War Tramp
-of, <span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page131">131</a></span>;
-traditions of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page174">174</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span>; warfare of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page215">215</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">G&ocirc;ch Owen, his imprisonment, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page263">263</a></span>; tomb of
-Griffith G&ocirc;ch, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page293">293</a></span>; Howel Coetmore, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page319">319</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Gorten Dinas, encampment on, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page186">186</a></span>; traditions
-relative to, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page187">187</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Griffith, Mary, or &lsquo;the Deserted,&rsquo;
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page59">59</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Gwarine, Fitz, or the family of Warrenne,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page51">51</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Gwrydd, public-house at, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page251">251</a></span>; romantic
-scenery at, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page252">252</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Gwydir castle, estate of Willoughby
-d&rsquo;Eresby, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page308">308</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">&mdash; chapel, built by the Wynne family,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page315">315</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Gwynant Llyn, and Llyn Dinas described, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page247">247</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page248">248</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Gwynedd, Prince Owain, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page290">290</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist">Harlech Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page214">214</a></span>; description of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page215">215</a></span>; besieged
-by the parliament forces, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page192">192</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page207">207</a></span>; the &lsquo;Blue Lion&rsquo; <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page283">283</a></span>; beauty of
-the scenery near, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page218">218</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Herbert, Sir Richard, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page216">216</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Hill, Lord, pillar to, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page28">28</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Howel Coetmore, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page319">319</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">&mdash; Voel, ode by, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page263">263</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">&mdash; ap-Eynion, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page109">109</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page112">112</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist">Idris, <i>see</i> Cader Idris.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">&mdash;, and Dyn Ddu, giant brethren, the
-legend of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page256">256</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Idwal, Llyn, and cleft of Twll Du, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page290">290</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist">Jones&rsquo;s Edward, &lsquo;Bardic
-Museum,&rsquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page171">171</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">&mdash; Rev. Mr. his escape at Penmaen Mawr,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page358">358</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Jorweth, Llewellyn-ap-, tomb of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page319">319</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page325">325</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist">Llyn Tegai parish, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page291">291</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Llanberis church and tombs, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page253">253</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page280">280</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page281">281</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Llanderfell, view from the bridge of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page150">150</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Llandrillo, village of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page148">148</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Llandysilio Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page132">132</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Llangollen, vale of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page88">88</a></span>;
-&lsquo;Aqueduct Tavern&rsquo; near, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page87">87</a></span>; inns at, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page93">93</a></span>; female club
-at, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page101">101</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Llanthyn, the estate of Sir W. W. Wynne, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page164">164</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Llanrwst, &lsquo;Three Eagles&rsquo; inn at,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page310">310</a></span>;
-plays at the Town Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page311">311</a></span>; town of, described, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page310">310</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page321">321</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Llewellyn, Prince of Wales, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page263">263</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page361">361</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">&mdash; and the captive knight, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page362">362</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Lloyd, Griffith, the rector of Llanrwst, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page321">321</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Llugwy river, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page291">291</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist">Madoc, port, slate exported from, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page232">232</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Madock, William Alexander, Esq. <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page232">232</a></span>; his
-mansion, Tan-y-allt, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page232">232</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page235">235</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">&mdash; Miss, mansion of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page177">177</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Maentwrog, village of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page218">218</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page219">219</a></span>; the
-shoemaker of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page220">220</a></span>; the &lsquo;Oakley arms&rsquo; at,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page221">221</a></span>; the
-Maentwrog inn at, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page230">230</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Mallow, Mick, story of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page102">102</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Mawddach, river, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page173">173</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span>; embouchure of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page183">183</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Menai strait, the, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page361">361</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page368">368</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Merionethshire mountains, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page230">230</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page235">235</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Minstrel Fay, the &lsquo;My Fawny
-Vychan,&rsquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page108">108</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Moel Siabod, view from, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page247">247</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page286">286</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Mortimer, Roger, Earl of Wigmore, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page70">70</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Mostyn Hall, the mansion of the Hon. E. M. L.
-Mostyn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page185">185</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page188">188</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Myttwn, General, besieges the castle of
-Harlech, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page192">192</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page200">200</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist">Nannau park, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page171">171</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist">Ogo-ap-Shenkin, cave of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page295">295</a></span>; adventure
-of Jordan-ap-Jordan at, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page305">305</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Ogwen, Llyn, and falls of Benclog, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page287">287</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Orme&rsquo;s Head, the Great, the promontory
-described, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page335">335</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Owain, William, account of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page201">201</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page217">217</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist"><a name="page391"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-391</span>Pedestrians, fashionable, in Wales, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page32">32</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Pembroke, William Herbert, earl of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page215">215</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Penmaen Bach, promontory of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page353">353</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Penmaen Mawr, precipice of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page277">277</a></span>; the pass,
-and modern road, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page353">353</a></span>; fearful accidents at, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page358">358</a></span>; ancient
-British camp near, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page359">359</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Penrhyn Castle, and Port Penrhyn, described,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page368">368</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Peveril family, the, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page51">51</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Phrenologist, adventure of a, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page344">344</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page351">351</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Pistyl-y-Cain, and falls of the river
-Mawddach, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">&mdash; Rhaidadr, waterfalls of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page69">69</a></span>; <i>see</i>
-Rhaiadr.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Pont-y-Pair, bridge of the cauldron, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page294">294</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Powell&rsquo;s History of North Wales, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page288">288</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Price, Mr. his estate and mansion of Rhewlas,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page151">151</a></span>,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page155">155</a></span>,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page158">158</a></span>,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page160">160</a></span>, his
-plantations, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page161">161</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Pwllhely, town of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page186">186</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist">Rhaiadr-y-Wennot, or Spout of the Swallow,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page292">292</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Rhaiadr-y-Parc Mawr, time to view the fall of,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page322">322</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Rhaiadr Du, cataract of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page177">177</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page231">231</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist">Scott, Sir Walter, note to his Marmion, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page179">179</a></span>; quotation
-from, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page352">352</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Severn, river, Mountford bridge, etc. <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page31">31</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Shrewsbury, and vicinity of the town, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page29">29</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Smuggler&rsquo;s daughter, the, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page335">335</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page343">343</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Snowdon and Snowdonia, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page172">172</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page286">286</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page172">172</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page240">240</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page251">251</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page360">360</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page286">286</a></span>; <i>see</i>
-Appendix.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Songs, etc.:&mdash;The Lament, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page66">66</a></span>; the Rose of
-Llangollen, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page90">90</a></span>; the Minstrel&rsquo;s Knell, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page115">115</a></span>; Lines at
-Valle Crucis, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page123">123</a></span>; Farewell to fair Rewlas, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page162">162</a></span>; Farewell
-Hugh, handsome Hugh, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page170">170</a></span>; Witch of Cwm Bychan, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page194">194</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page196">196</a></span>; dialogue,
-the Traveller, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page227">227</a></span>; Lines written at Aber Glas Llyn,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page237">237</a></span>; Llyn
-Gwynant, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page249">249</a></span>; Poem of Llewellyn and the Captive
-Knight, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page362">362</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Stag, the enchanted, a legend, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page71">71</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Stage-coach, society of a, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page15">15</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist">Taliesin, the bard&rsquo;s abode, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page322">322</a></span>; poem
-extant relative to, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page323">323</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Tan-y-Bwlch, mansion of W. G. Oakley Esq.
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page230">230</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Tevi, river, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page288">288</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Traeth Mawr and Traeth bach, arms of the sea,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page218">218</a></span>,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page232">232</a></span>,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page233">233</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Trefriw, village of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page323">323</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Tremadoc, the town of Madoc, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page232">232</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page234">234</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Trifaen, crags of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page289">289</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Trout fishing in Wales, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page145">145</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page156">156</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page222">222</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page231">231</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page252">252</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Tudor-Trevor, family of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page109">109</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist">Valle Crucis, Abbey of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page121">121</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Vaughan, Margaret, poems by, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page320">320</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">&mdash; Sir R. W. Bart. estates of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page171">171</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page178">178</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Vortigern&rsquo;s Hill, near Beddgelert, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page247">247</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p class="gutlist">Welshwomen, particulars relative to, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page143">143</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page149">149</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Whiffler, Mr., an amateur traveller, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page130">130</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Wittington, village of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page48">48</a></span>; the castle
-described, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page50">50</a></span>; church and tombs at, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page54">54</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Wnion, the river, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page165">165</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page173">173</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Wolverhampton, the road to, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page22">22</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Wynne, account of the family of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page293">293</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page309">309</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page315">315</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page316">316</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page320">320</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page325">325</a></span>.</p>
-<p class="gutlist">Wynnstay, mansion of Sir Watkin W. Wynne,
-Bart., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page85">85</a></span>.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p style="text-align: center">END.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p style="text-align: center"><span
-class="GutSmall">LONDON:</span><br />
-<span class="GutSmall">SCHULZE AND CO. 13, POLAND
-STREET.</span></p>
-<h2>FOOTNOTES.</h2>
-<p><a name="footnote107"></a><a href="#citation107"
-class="footnote">[107]</a>&nbsp; THE FAIRY&rsquo;S
-SERENADE.&nbsp; (With an Accompaniment for the Pianoforte.)&nbsp;
-Arranged by W. <span class="smcap">Forde</span>.&nbsp;
-<i>Allegretto</i>.&nbsp; G. BENNETT.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p108ab.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Music Score for The Fairy&rsquo;s Serenade"
-title=
-"Music Score for The Fairy&rsquo;s Serenade"
- src="images/p108as.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<blockquote><p>The breeze hath left the Berwyn hills,<br />
-The dew was on the flower;<br />
-The bee had sought his honey comb,<br />
-The bird was in his bower;<br />
-When swifter than the mountain gale,<br />
-On Alban steed I flew<br />
-My bee I sought your honey home;<br />
-My bird I flew to you.<br />
-My bee I sought your honey home;<br />
-My bird I flew to you.</p>
-<p>My peerless steed is white with foam<br />
-And droops his arched neck;<br />
-The flood, the mountain, and the glen,<br />
-He crossed without a cheek.<br />
-Oh! listen while my harp I strike,<br />
-And rouse its sweetest tone;<br />
-And hear the language of a heart,<br />
-Which beats for you alone.</p>
-<p>The breeze hath left the Berwyn hills,<br />
-The dew is on the flower;<br />
-And I must hie to fairy land,<br />
-Ere chimes the midnight hour.<br />
-Arise bright star of beauty rise,<br />
-And when from you I roam,<br />
-Send forth the lustre of your eyes<br />
-To light me to my home.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p><a name="footnote130"></a><a href="#citation130"
-class="footnote">[130]</a>&nbsp; BATTLE SONG.&nbsp;
-(<i>Air</i>&mdash;&ldquo;The Swan&rsquo;s Note.&rdquo;)&nbsp;
-Arranged by W. <span class="smcap">Forde</span>.&nbsp; <i>Bold
-and expressive</i>.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p130b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Music score for Battle song"
-title=
-"Music score for Battle song"
- src="images/p130s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<blockquote><p>March to the battle,<br />
-Drums loudly rattle,<br />
-Trumpets are braying,<br />
-Proud steeds are neighing,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And armour clashing,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; While torrents dashing,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Loudly thunder down below.</p>
-<p>Bright helms are glancing,<br />
-Gay plumes are dancing,<br />
-
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-Brave hearts are beating,<br />
-For the death meeting;<br />
-And Freedom rallies,<br />
-Sons of the valleys,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Forward then and face the foe!<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Scion said Father round us come,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Gather bare the sword and strike
-the blow.</p>
-<p>From rock and heather,<br />
-Spring up together,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Fierce as the eagle,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Staunch as the beagle;<br />
-From the heart&rsquo;s fountain,<br />
-Sons of the mountain,<br />
-
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-Shout the war cry of Glyndoor!<br />
-England advances,<br />
-Proud of her lances,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Gallant and sightly,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Noble and knightly,<br />
-Wales frowns before her,<br />
-Death hovers o&rsquo;er her&mdash;<br />
-
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-Forward to the battle moor;&mdash;<br />
-Fate hath decreed &rsquo;em,<br />
-Victims to freedom;<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And banners flying,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; O&rsquo;er dead and dying&mdash;<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Wave for Cambria&rsquo;s great
-Glyndoor!</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p><a name="footnote143"></a><a href="#citation143"
-class="footnote">[143]</a>&nbsp; JENNY DAVIES.&nbsp;
-(<i>Air</i>&mdash;&ldquo;Llwyn-onn.&rdquo;)&nbsp; Arranged by W.
-<span class="smcap">Forde</span>.&nbsp; <i>Allegretto</i>.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p142b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Music score for Jenny Davies"
-title=
-"Music score for Jenny Davies"
- src="images/p142s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<blockquote><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I&rsquo;m call&rsquo;d Jenny
-Davies,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; The fairest of Ladies,<br />
-And dwell on the bank-side where primroses grow;<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; My cheeks are like cherries,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; My lips sweet strawberries,<br />
-My eyes are as black as the wild mountain sloe.<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; My heart&rsquo;s warm and tender,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; My waist small and slender,<br />
-I bound o&rsquo;er the hills like the young mountain row;<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; I&rsquo;m blithesome and witty,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Then sure &rsquo;tis a pity,<br />
-That I for a husband should sight forth heigh ho!</p>
-<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;With sighing and suing,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Young Arthur came wooing,<br />
-But he was too shy for a buxom young lass,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Then came handsome Harry,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Who press&rsquo;d me to marry,<br />
-But he was too fond of his toilet and glass;<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Then followed brave Rowland,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Who lives in the low-land,<br />
-But he was too rough for a delicate maid;<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sure, sure &rsquo;tis a pity,<br
-/>
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; A young girl so pretty,<br />
-Should sigh for a husband and pine in the shade.</p>
-<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Young Carlie abused me,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And sadly misused me,<br />
-He vow&rsquo;d to be mine and ran off with Miss Jones;<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And last came a Quaker,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; A grave undertaker,<br />
-Who promis&rsquo;d he&rsquo;d soon make me bone of his bones;<br
-/>
-&nbsp;&nbsp; But he late and early<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Is peevish and surly,<br />
-No longer I smile, and to dance I&rsquo;m afraid;<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I can&rsquo;t bear to choose
-him,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; And yet if I lose him,<br />
-Perhaps, (Oh, my stars!) I shall die an old maid.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p><a name="footnote176"></a><a href="#citation176"
-class="footnote">[176]</a>&nbsp; MOUNTAIN MARY.&nbsp;
-(<i>Air</i>&mdash;&ldquo;Cader Idris.&rdquo;)&nbsp;&nbsp;
-Arranged by W. <span class="smcap">Forde</span>.&nbsp;&nbsp;
-<i>Allegretto</i>.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p176b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Music score for Mountain Mary"
-title=
-"Music score for Mountain Mary"
- src="images/p176s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p class="poetry">The sun had gone down, and the monarch of
-mountains<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Had robed his dark form in a mantle of cloud;<br />
-The primroses slept by the summer dried fountains,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And beauty&rsquo;s own river seem&rsquo;d dreaming
-aloud.<br />
-In the dale of the Hazel all nature seem&rsquo;d weeping,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And mild was the moon-light that silver&rsquo;d the
-grove;<br />
-But wakeful was morn flew my own mountain Mary,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; To gladden my heart with the breathings of love.</p>
-<p class="poetry">She looked down to blush, from the gaze of her
-lover,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Her snowy lids veiling her heaven-blue eyes;<br />
-More sweet was her breath than the dew-sprinkled clover,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; When morning first breaks through the gates of the
-skies.<br />
-The land-breeze sprang up, and my bark tripp&rsquo;d her
-anchor,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Ah me, how we started to feel that fair wind,<br />
-&ldquo;Remember,&rdquo; she cried, &ldquo;the dear dale of the
-Hazel<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; And poor mountain Mary left weeping
-behind.&rdquo;</p>
-<p class="poetry">Far, far did I wander in climes hotly
-burning,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Till fortune repaid me with wealth in good store;<br
-/>
-Then swift as a bird&rsquo;s flight o&rsquo;er high waves
-returning,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Our vessel was wafted to Abermaw&rsquo;s shore.<br
-/>
-With the speed of the roe-buck I flew to my Mary,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Joy&rsquo;s tears from her eyes fell like midsummer
-rain;<br />
-And now in Dolgelley by wedlock united,<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; The world and its wealth shall ne&rsquo;er part us
-again.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote240"></a><a href="#citation240"
-class="footnote">[240]</a>&nbsp; See appendix.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote250"></a><a href="#citation250"
-class="footnote">[250]</a>&nbsp; The Blue Well, one of the pools
-in the recesses of the great mountain, which discharges its
-waters into Llynn Gwynant.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote266"></a><a href="#citation266"
-class="footnote">[266]</a>&nbsp; See appendix.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote304"></a><a href="#citation304"
-class="footnote">[304]</a>&nbsp; DAFYDD AP SHENKIN.&nbsp; (For
-Three Voices.)&nbsp; Arranged by W. <span
-class="smcap">Forde</span>.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p304b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Music score for Dafydd ap Shenkin"
-title=
-"Music score for Dafydd ap Shenkin"
- src="images/p304s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p class="poetry">Oh! Shenkin was a noble fellow,<br />
-As ever rov&rsquo;d in Conway vale;<br />
-He drank till he was mellow, drank till he was mellow,<br />
-He drank till he was mellow,<br />
-And fought till his foes turn&rsquo;d pale.</p>
-<p class="poetry">Well did he strike for merry freedom,<br />
-And England fear&rsquo;d his great renown,<br />
-For laws&mdash;himself decreed &rsquo;em,<br />
-And gallantly held his own.</p>
-<p class="poetry">Then drink boys to the outlaw&rsquo;d
-ranger,<br />
-And let us seek old Dafydd&rsquo;s cave,<br />
-Where oft he cheer&rsquo;d the stranger,<br />
-And dug for his foes a grave.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote384"></a><a href="#citation384"
-class="footnote">[384]</a>&nbsp; FAREWELL TO NORTH WALES.&nbsp;
-(<i>Air</i>&mdash;&ldquo;Ar hyd y nos.&rdquo;)&nbsp; Arranged by
-W. <span class="smcap">Forde</span>.&nbsp; <i>Andante
-espressivo</i>.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p384b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Music score for Farewell to North Wales"
-title=
-"Music score for Farewell to North Wales"
- src="images/p384s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p class="poetry">Mountain, glen, wild rock, and heather,<br />
-
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-Now farewell!<br />
-Lakes and fairy dells for ever,<br />
-
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-All farewell.<br />
-Land of love and softest blisses,<br />
-Casket of my dearest wishes,<br />
-I would cover thee with kisses,<br />
-
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-But farewell.</p>
-<p class="poetry">Burning tears proclaim my anguish,<br />
-
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-Fare&mdash;farewell.<br />
-When away from thee I languish,<br />
-
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-Fare&mdash;farewell.<br />
-Friends and kindred when I&rsquo;m sleeping,<br />
-To my beating heart come creeping<br />
-Morning brings me woe and weeping,<br />
-
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-Fare&mdash;farewell.</p>
-<p class="poetry">Land where beauty ever glances,<br />
-
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-Fare&mdash;farewell.<br />
-And where joy for ever dances,<br />
-
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-Fare&mdash;farewell.<br />
-Surly winds are round me blowing,<br />
-Wildly are my white locks flowing,<br />
-Drear and dark the day is growing,<br />
-
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-Fare&mdash;farewell.</p>
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PEDESTRIAN'S GUIDE THROUGH NORTH
-WALES***
-
-
-***** This file should be named 64203-h.htm or 64203-h.zip******
-
-
-This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
-http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/4/2/0/64203
-
-
-Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will
-be renamed.
-
-Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright
-law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works,
-so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United
-States without permission and without paying copyright
-royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part
-of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm
-concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark,
-and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive
-specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this
-eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook
-for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports,
-performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given
-away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks
-not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the
-trademark license, especially commercial redistribution.
-
-START: FULL LICENSE
-
-THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
-PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
-
-To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
-distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
-(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
-Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full
-Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at
-www.gutenberg.org/license.
-
-Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic works
-
-1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
-electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
-and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
-(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all
-the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or
-destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your
-possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a
-Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound
-by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the
-person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph
-1.E.8.
-
-1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be
-used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
-agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few
-things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
-even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See
-paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this
-agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm
-electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below.
-
-1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the
-Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection
-of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual
-works in the collection are in the public domain in the United
-States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the
-United States and you are located in the United States, we do not
-claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing,
-displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as
-all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope
-that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting
-free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm
-works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the
-Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily
-comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the
-same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when
-you share it without charge with others.
-
-1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
-what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are
-in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States,
-check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this
-agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing,
-distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any
-other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no
-representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any
-country outside the United States.
-
-1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
-
-1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other
-immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear
-prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work
-on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the
-phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed,
-performed, viewed, copied or distributed:
-
-  This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-  most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no
-  restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it
-  under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this
-  eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the
-  United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you
-  are located before using this ebook.
-
-1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is
-derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not
-contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the
-copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in
-the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are
-redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project
-Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply
-either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or
-obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm
-trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
-
-1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
-with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
-must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any
-additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms
-will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works
-posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the
-beginning of this work.
-
-1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
-License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
-work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
-
-1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
-electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
-prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
-active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
-Gutenberg-tm License.
-
-1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
-compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including
-any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access
-to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format
-other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official
-version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site
-(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense
-to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means
-of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain
-Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the
-full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
-
-1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
-performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
-unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
-
-1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
-access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
-provided that
-
-* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
-  the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
-  you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed
-  to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has
-  agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project
-  Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid
-  within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are
-  legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty
-  payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project
-  Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in
-  Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg
-  Literary Archive Foundation."
-
-* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
-  you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
-  does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
-  License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all
-  copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue
-  all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm
-  works.
-
-* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of
-  any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
-  electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of
-  receipt of the work.
-
-* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
-  distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
-
-1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than
-are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing
-from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The
-Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm
-trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
-
-1.F.
-
-1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
-effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
-works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project
-Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm
-electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may
-contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate
-or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other
-intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or
-other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or
-cannot be read by your equipment.
-
-1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
-of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
-Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
-Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
-Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
-liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
-fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
-LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
-PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
-TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
-LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
-INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
-DAMAGE.
-
-1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
-defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
-receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
-written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you
-received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium
-with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you
-with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in
-lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person
-or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second
-opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If
-the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing
-without further opportunities to fix the problem.
-
-1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
-in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO
-OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT
-LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
-
-1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
-warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of
-damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement
-violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the
-agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or
-limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or
-unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the
-remaining provisions.
-
-1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
-trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
-providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in
-accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the
-production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm
-electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses,
-including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of
-the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this
-or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or
-additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any
-Defect you cause.
-
-Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
-
-Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
-electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of
-computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It
-exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations
-from people in all walks of life.
-
-Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
-assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
-goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
-remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project
-Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
-and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future
-generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary
-Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see
-Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at
-www.gutenberg.org 
-
-Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary 
-Archive Foundation
-
-The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
-501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
-state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
-Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
-number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary
-Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by
-U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
-
-The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the
-mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its
-volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous
-locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt
-Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to
-date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and
-official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact
-
-For additional contact information:
-
-    Dr. Gregory B. Newby
-    Chief Executive and Director
-    gbnewby@pglaf.org
-
-Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
-Literary Archive Foundation
-
-Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
-spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
-increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
-freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
-array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations
-($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
-status with the IRS.
-
-The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
-charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
-States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
-considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
-with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations
-where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND
-DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular
-state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate
-
-While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
-have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
-against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
-approach us with offers to donate.
-
-International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
-any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
-outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
-
-Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
-methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other
-ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To
-donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate
-
-Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works.
-
-Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project
-Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be
-freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and
-distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of
-volunteer support.
-
-Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
-editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in
-the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not
-necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper
-edition.
-
-Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search
-facility: www.gutenberg.org
-
-This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
-including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
-Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
-subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
-
-</pre></body>
-</html>
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/cover.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/cover.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 2dce8f5..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/cover.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p108ab.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p108ab.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 929847a..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p108ab.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p108as.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p108as.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index c66dc2e..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p108as.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p108b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p108b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 64b6eba..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p108b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p108s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p108s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 0b100b4..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p108s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p121b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p121b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 79a09ac..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p121b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p121s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p121s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index f0b1e81..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p121s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p128b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p128b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 12da317..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p128b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p128s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p128s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 6a6cb08..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p128s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p130b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p130b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 259c6a4..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p130b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p130s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p130s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 30770b4..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p130s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p142b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p142b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 84725df..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p142b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p142s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p142s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index b0a88d7..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p142s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p155b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p155b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index f0e58b0..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p155b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p155s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p155s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 1780da2..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p155s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p171.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p171.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index b2908b5..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p171.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p174b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p174b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 33c46be..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p174b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p174s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p174s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 1d79cec..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p174s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p176b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p176b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 2beaa13..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p176b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p176s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p176s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 956c70f..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p176s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p209b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p209b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index b8dff35..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p209b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p209s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p209s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 586634c..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p209s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p215b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p215b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 65e1850..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p215b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p215s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p215s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 33d2e3d..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p215s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p219b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p219b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 86097d5..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p219b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p219s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p219s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index c0ee158..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p219s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p231b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p231b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 49cb946..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p231b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p231s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p231s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index de3b752..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p231s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p237b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p237b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 2c122c1..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p237b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p237s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p237s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 1ad8eea..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p237s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p251b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p251b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index accab63..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p251b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p251s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p251s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 5f4e877..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p251s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p254b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p254b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 619cf94..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p254b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p254s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p254s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index ad4136b..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p254s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p304b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p304b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index d170eb4..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p304b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p304s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p304s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index cf7176e..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p304s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p319b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p319b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index f8bc298..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p319b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p319s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p319s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 2558a4c..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p319s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p325b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p325b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index b6836fc..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p325b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p325s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p325s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 03209d5..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p325s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p362b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p362b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index f3fc941..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p362b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p362s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p362s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 37d16ec..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p362s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p384b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p384b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 07c5788..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p384b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p384s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p384s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index ebf1605..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p384s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p68b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p68b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index ee2321e..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p68b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p68s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p68s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index d44abee..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p68s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p93b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p93b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index dfb3701..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p93b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p93s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p93s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 8947707..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p93s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p99b.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p99b.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 8e09fdf..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p99b.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/p99s.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/p99s.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 8c41409..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/p99s.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/tpb.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/tpb.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 390f174..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/tpb.jpg
+++ /dev/null
diff --git a/old/64203-h/images/tps.jpg b/old/64203-h/images/tps.jpg
deleted file mode 100644
index 71335ce..0000000
--- a/old/64203-h/images/tps.jpg
+++ /dev/null