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diff --git a/old/64195-0.txt b/old/64195-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 61eb160..0000000 --- a/old/64195-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4960 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Tourist's Guide through North Wales, by -George John Bennett, Illustrated by Alfred Clint - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: The Tourist's Guide through North Wales - - -Author: George John Bennett - - - -Release Date: January 1, 2021 [eBook #64195] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE TOURIST'S GUIDE THROUGH NORTH -WALES*** - - -Transcribed from the 1853 Whittaker and Co. edition by David Price. - - [Picture: Llangollen] - - - - - - THE - TOURIST’S - GUIDE THROUGH NORTH WALES. - - - BY - G. J. BENNETT. - - * * * * * - - WITH ETCHINGS, BY A. CLINT. - - * * * * * - - London: - WHITTAKER AND CO., AVE MARIA LANE. - G. PHILIP & SON, LIVERPOOL; J. MORGAN, OSWESTRY. - 1853. - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS. - - 1 Llangollen facing Title Page. - 2 Chirk Castle 26 - 3 Font in the Grounds of Plâs Newydd 35 - 4 Castell Dinas Brân 39 - 5 Valle Crucis Abbey 40 - 6 Pillar of Eliseg 42 - 7 Bala Lake 50 - 8 Cader Idris, from the Bala Road 54 - 9 Parliament House of Owen Glyndwr 56 - 10 View from Carreg y Saeth 68 - 11 Harlech Castle 75 - 12 The Vale of Maentwrog 79 - 13 The Raven Fall, near Maentwrog 83 - 14 Pont Aber Glaslyn 88 - 15 Snowdon, from the Pass of Llyn 92 - Gwynant - 16 Pass of Llanberis 96 - 17 The Coffin of Leolinus Magnus 114 - 18 Conwy Castle 119 - - - - -PREFACE. - - -THE Author’s object in offering to the Public the following pages is, -that all who have a desire to examine the beauties of Welsh scenery may -also have an opportunity of seeing the most _interesting_ portion of it -in a tour which will not occupy more than a month. The route described -in this volume presents a variety of pictures which can scarcely be -equalled, and certainly not surpassed, in any quarter of the globe. It -is true there are hills higher far than any in Snowdonia, and valleys -more extensive; but, while we are astonished at a description of the -enormous magnitude of the Asiatic and American mountains, and the noble -rivers, and sea-like lakes of the latter, let us take into our -consideration which is the most desirable country to explore; that in -which nature’s prodigies are so extensive that we can neither ascend the -eminences, ford the rivers, nor view the opposite shores of the extensive -lakes; or _that_ where mountains may be scaled with ease, from the -summits of which a series of glorious panoramas burst upon the -eye,—wherein the valleys, glens, and wild ravines present an endless -variety of sublimity and beauty, and the loud torrent and the waterfall -pour forth their melody of never-tiring sweetness, to delight the ear? - -Seas must be crossed, and miles of dreary and uninteresting country -traversed, in wandering from one grand object to another in the _former_; -while, in the route here represented to the Public—within the reach of -all—repose and admiration charm the heart by turns, in the rich fertile -valleys, lofty and wood-clad hills, or heather-mantled mountains, of -North Wales. The traveller is likewise insured the comfort of a good -inn, where he may rest his wearied limbs after a day’s ramble in whatever -part of the district he chooses to select for his excursion; and the -healthy and active should decidedly make _use_ of their _limbs_, to bear -them through this tour, in preference to the more easy and luxurious -vehicle, and even to the equestrian mode of conveyance. A good -horsewoman may venture into the dark defiles, or climb the craggy heights -upon the ponies, which are always in readiness at the inns for that -purpose; but between a man and his steed there will most assuredly be a -strong feeling of sympathy created by a conviction that the one is a most -unnecessary burthen to the other. - -The peasantry are simple, honest, and obliging; and, as they trudge -along, a spirit of freedom sparkles in their eyes, and seems to animate -every action of their unfettered limbs. Though their fare is humble, -they enjoy it with an appetite to which the bracing air of their hills, -and their happy ignorance of luxuries, gives an enviable zest. -Drunkenness is a vice almost unknown among these primitive mountaineers: -milk is their common beverage, oatmeal cakes, and potatoes, with a -plentiful supply of trout from their native streams, form their chief -summer food; while, in winter, dry salted beef and mutton serve to -satisfy their utmost wishes. - - “Though poor the peasant’s hut, his feasts tho’ small, - He sees his little lot the lot of all. - - * * * * - - Dear is that shed to which his soul conforms, - And dear that hill which lifts him to the storms. - And, as a child, when scaring sounds molest, - Clings close and closer to the mother’s breast, - So the loud torrent, and the whirlwind’s roar, - But bind him to his native mountains more.” - - - - -DIRECTIONS -TO THOSE UNACQUAINTED WITH THE WELSH LANGUAGE. - - -A knowledge of the Welsh alphabet is indispensable to those who are -desirous of correctly pronouncing the necessary questions and answers -that transpire upon the road. The names of places must effectually -puzzle any tourist, who is not acquainted with the peculiar sound of each -letter particularly where there are many consonants in a word. In order, -therefore, to aid the traveller in Wales, I have selected the following -rules. - -In the Welsh alphabet there are no mutes; and all letters that are -circumflex must be pronounced long, as - -Bôn like the English bone. -Bin, as been. -C, always as K in English. -Ch, is pronounced as the Greek _Χ_. -Dd, as the English th in this, that, thou. -F, as V in English. -Ff as F and double F in English. -G, as G in good, but never soft as in genial. -I, as I in king, but never as in fire. -Ll, as L aspirated. -Th, as in thought. -U, as I in the English words bliss, kiss, &c. -W, as double O in good, wood. -Y, as U in burn; but in the last syllable of a word, and in all -monosyllables except Y, Ydd, Ym, Yn, Yr, Ys, Fy, Dy, Myn, it is like I in -Sin. - -By attending to these rules, the stranger will easily make himself -understood by the peasantry, and on his tours, in enquiring for any place -to which he may be journeying. - - - - -GLOSSARY. - - -_Ab_, (or _Ap_,) the son of. -_Aber_, the junction of a river with the sea. -_Allt_, a hill; a mutation of _gallt_. -_Annedd_, a dwelling place. -_Am_, about. -_Ar_, upon. _Arvon_, bordering upon _Môn_, or Anglesey. -_Ardal_, a region. -_Argae_, an embankment. -_Avon_, a river. -_Bâch_, little; when joined to a substantive feminine, it is written -_vâch_. -_Bala_, an outlet. -_Ban_, high, lofty. Plur. _banau_, heights, or eminences. -_Banc_, a bank. -_Bâs_, shallow. -_Bedd_, a grave. -_Blaen_, a point, upper end, or extremity. -_Bôd_, an abode, residence, habitation. -_Bôn_, the base. -_Braenar_, fallow land. -_Braich_, an arm. -_Brîg_, top, summit. -_Brîth_, speckled, mottled. -_Bron_, a breast, the slope of a hill. -_Bryn_, a hill, or mount. Pl. _bryniau_. -_Buwch_, a cow. -_Bwlch_, a pass, or defile. Pl. _bylchau_. -_Câd_, battle, war. -_Cader_, a chair. -_Cae_, a field. Pl. _caeau_. -_Caer_, a fortress, or fortified town. -_Cantrev_, a district containing 100 townships. A canton, a hundred. -_Capel_, a chapel. -_Careg_, a stone. Pl. _ceryg_. -_Carn_, a heap of stones. The hoof of a horse. -_Carnedd_, a heap of stones. Pl. _carneddau_. -_Castell_, a castle. Pl. _cestyll_. -_Ceulan_, bank of a river. -_Cevn_, the bank, ridge of a hill. -_Cîl_, a recess. _Cilvach_, a small recess. -_Clawdd_, a hedge, dyke. _Clawdd Offa_, Offa’s dyke. -_Clogwyn_, a precipice. -_Côch_, red. -_Coed_, trees. Sing. _coeden_, a tree. -_Côr_, a circle, a choir. _Bangor_, high choir. -_Corlan_, a sheepfold. -_Cors_, a bog, or fen. -_Craig_, a rock, a crag. Pl. _creigiau_. -_Croes_, a cross. -_Crug_, a hillock. Pl. _crugion_. -_Cwm_, a valley, dingle, glen. -_Cymmer_, the junction of two rivers. -_Dau_, two. -_Dehau_, south, the right side. -_Din_, _dinas_, a city, a fort, a fortified place on a hill. -_Dôl_, a meadow. -_Drws_, a doorway. -_Du_, black; hence _dwrdu_, the river Dee; literally, Black-water. -_Dwy_, two. (fem.) -_Dwr_, or _dwvr_, water. Pl. _dyvroedd_. -_Eglwys_, a church. -_Erw_, an acre. -_Esgair_, a leg, a long ridge of mountain. -_Fordd_, a road. -_Fynnon_, a fountain, a well. -_Gaer_, a mutation of _caer_, as _y gaer_, the fortress. -_Gallt_, a hill; in construction, _allt_. -_Gardd_, a garden. -_Garth_, a promontory. -_Gelli_, a grove of hazels. -_Glan_, the brink, bank; _glan y môr_, the sea side. -_Glâs_, blue, grey, green. -_Glyn_, a glen. -_Gorsav_, a station, stand. -_Grug_, heath. -_Gwaelod_, a bottom. -_Gwaen_, a large plain. -_Gwern_, watery meadow. Alder. -_Gwydd_, wood. -_Gwyn_, white. Fem. _gwen_, _wen_. -_Gwyrdd_, green. Fem. _gwerdd_, _werdd_. -_Havod_, a summer dwelling. -_Hen_, old. _Hendre_, old mansion. -_Heol_, a street. -_Hir_, long. -_Iâl_, open country. -_Is_, lower. _Isav_, lowest. -_Llain_, a long piece. -_Llan_, a church; a village with a church. -_Llawr_, a floor. -_Llech_, a flat stone, slate, slab. -_Lluest_, an encampment. -_Llwyd_, grey, hoary. -_Llwyn_, a grove, a bush, a copse. -_Llyn_, a lake, pool. -_Llys_, a court, a palace. -_Maen_, a stone. Pl. _meini_. -_Maenor_, a manor. -_Maes_, an open field. -_Mall_, bad, rotten. -_Man_, a place. -_Mawn_, peat. _Mawnog_, a turbary. -_Mawr_, great, large. -_Melin_, a mill. -_Melyn_, yellow. -_Merthyr_, a martyr. -_Moel_, bald, bare; a bare hill. -_Môn_, Anglesey. -_Môr_, the sea. -_Morva_, a marsh. -_Mynach_, a monk. -_Mynydd_, a mountain. -_Nant_, a brook, ravine, glen. -_Neuadd_, a hall. -_Newydd_, new. -_Ochr_, a side. -_Pant_, a hollow. -_Parth_, a division, a part. -_Pen_, a head. -_Penmaen_, a promontory, a rocky head. -_Penrhyn_, a promontory, a cape. -_Pentrev_, a village, a hamlet. -_Perth_, a brake, a thornbush. -_Pistyll_, a spout of water. -_Plâs_, a mansion, a hall. -_Plwyv_, a parish. -_Pont_, a bridge. -_Porth_, a gate, a ferry. -_Pwll_, a pit, a pool. -_Rhaiadr_, a cataract, a waterfall. -_Rhiw_, a slope. -_Rhôs_, a moor. -_Rhudd_, crimson, ruddy. -_Rhyd_, a ford. _Rhydycroesau_, the ford of the Crosses. -_Sarn_, a causeway. -_Serth_, steep, abrupt. -_Swydd_, an office, a county. -_Tal_, the head or front. _Talcen_, the forehead. -_Tan_, under. -_Tervyn_, the boundary. -_Tir_, the earth. -_Tommen_, a tumulus. -_Traeth_, a sand. -_Trev_, a town. -_Tri_, three. -_Troed_, a foot. Pl. _traed_, feet. -_Trwyn_, a nose. -_Twr_, a tower. -_Ty_, a house. Pl. _Tai_, houses. -_Tyddyn_, a farm. -_Tywyn_, a strand, a sandy shore. -_Uchav_, highest. -_Uwch_, higher. -_Y_, the. -_Yn_, in. -_Ynys_, an island. -_Yspytty_, a hospital. -_Ystlys_, the side, the flank. -_Ystrad_, a flat, a vale. -_Ystum_, a bend. -_Ystwyth_, flexible. - - - - -THE ROUTE. - - ROUTE. MILES. OBSERVATIONS. -From LONDON to SHREWSBURY, thence 154 _Objects of -to Interest_.—Castle, - Abbey, Lord Hill’s - Column, Quarry Walk, - and Town Hall. - - _Angling - Station_.—The Severn. - - _Hotels_.—The Lion, - Raven, Raven and - Bell, and Crown. -CHIRK 22 _Objects of - Interest_.—The - Castle, Brynkinalt, - Viaduct, Aqueduct, - and Vale. - - _Angling - Station_.—The - Ceiriog. - - _Hotel_.—The Chirk - Castle Arms. -LLANGOLLEN 7 _Objects of - Interest_.—Church, - Plâs Newydd, Castle - Dinas Brân, Valle - Crucis Abbey, Pillar - of Eliseg, Aqueduct - and Viaduct. - - _Angling - Stations_.—The Dee, - to Corwen or Overton. - - _Hotels_.—The Hand, - Royal Hotel, and - Ponsonby Arms. -CORWEN 10 _Objects of - Interest_.—The - Church, Cross, - Glyndwr’s Seat, Vale - of Edeyrnion. - - _Angling - Stations_.—Between - Corwen and - Llansaintffraid - bridge. - - _Hotel_.—The Owen - Glyndwr. -LLANDRILLO 6 _Hotel_.—White Lion. -BALA 6 _Objects of - Interest_.—The Lake, - Aran Vawddwy, Arenig - Vawr, Arenig Vâch. - - _Angling - Stations_.—Bala Lake, - River Dee, Treweryn, - &c. - - _Hotels_.—White Lion - and Bull’s Head. -DOLGELLEY 18 _Objects of - Interest_.—Nannau - Park, Kymmer Abbey, - County Gaol, - Parliament House of - Owen Glyndwr, Pistyll - Cain, Rhaiadr - Mawddach, and - Dolymelynllyn. - Llanvachreth - Waterfall. - - _Angling - Stations_.—Mawddach, - River Wnion, Llyn - Cregynan, S.W. 4 - miles, Llyn-y-Gader, - 1½ m., Llyn Geirw, 5 - m., Tal-y-llyn, on - Cader Idris, 6 m. - - _Hotels_.—Golden - Lion, Angel, & Ship. -BARMOUTH 10 _Objects of - Interest_.—Old Town, - Sarn Badrig, - Cors-y-gedol. - - _Angling - Stations_.—Llyn - Raithlyn, nr. - Trawsvynydd, Arthog - Chapel, 3 m. distant, - Llyn Bodlyn, 4 miles - from Barmouth, Llyn - Irddyn and Llyn - Geirw, near the town. - - _Hotel_.—Cors-y-gedol - Arms. -HARLECH 10 _Objects of - Interest_.—The - Castle, Cwm Bychan, - Cromlech, 2 m. S. in - a farm called Gwern - Einion; Druidical - Circle between the - farm and Harlech. - - _Angling - Stations_.— - Llanvihangel, on - Dwyryd, 5 m.; - Llanbedr on the - Artro, 3 m.; - Llyn-y-Vedw, Llyn - Eiddew, Gloywlyn; - Llyn y Cwm Bychan, - Llyn Trewyn. - - _Hotel_.—The Blue - Lion. -MAENTWROG 10 _Objects of - Interest_.—Tan-y- - Bwlch, Slate - Quarries, 5 m.; - Rhaiadr Du and Raven - Fall, 2 m.; - Festiniog, 3 m.; - Falls of Cynvael, - Roman Encampment - (Tommen-y-Mur), 3 m. - from Festiniog. - - _Angling - Stations_.—Llyn - Llenyrch, 3½ m. (good - trout); Cwmmorthin - Lake (in the Pass of - Cwmmorthin) 4½ m.; - Llyn-y-Manod, 6 m. - (large trout); - Llyn-y-Morwynion, 6 - m.; Llyn Tecwyn, 3 - m.; Llyn Conwy, Llyn - Garw. - - _Hotels_.—Maentwrog - Inn, Oakley Arms. At - Festiniog, Pengwern - Arms. -TREMADOC 10½ _Objects of - Interest_.—The - Breakwater at Port - Madoc; Church. - - _Angling Station_.—At - Tremadoc. - - _Hotel_.—Madoc Arms. -BEDDGELERT 10½ _Objects of - Interest_.—Pont Aber - Glaslyn, Gelert’s - Grave, Chair of Rhys - Gôch o’r Eryri. - - _Angling - Stations_.—Nant - Gwynnant, Llyn Dinas, - Cwm Llan, Llyn - Gwynnant, Llyn - Llydaw, Pont Aber - Glaslyn. - - _Hotel_.—The Goat. -LLANBERIS 14 _Objects of - Interest_.—Dolbadarn - Castle, Church, Tomb - of Little John Closs, - Well of St. Peris, - Lakes, Pass. - - _Angling - Stations_.—Upper and - Lower Lakes (bad - sport), Llyn Cwm - Dwythog, 2 m.; Llyn - Llydaw (on Snowdon), - 5 m.; Glaslyn, on the - west of Snowdon. - - _Hotels_.—Victoria - and Snowdonia. -CAPEL CURIG 10 _Objects of - Interest_.—Rhaiadr-y- - Wennol Waterfall, - Moel-Siabod, - Dolwyddelan Castle, 5 - m. - - _Angling - Stations_.—Same as - above. - - _Hotel_.—Capel Curig - Inn. -BETTWS-Y-COED 5 _Objects of - Interest_.—Pont-y- - Pair, Shenkin’s Cave, - Church, Monument to - Davydd Gôch. - - _Angling - Stations_.—Lake - Ogwen, Nant Francon, - Llyn Idwal, River - Llugwy. -LLANRWST 5 _Objects of - Interest_.—The - Bridge, Gwydir - Castle, Church, - Gwydir Chapel. - - _Angling - Stations_.—Bettws-y- - Coed, 3 m.; Trevriw, - 2½ m.; Dolgarrog, 4 - m.; Llanbedr, 5 m.; - Dolwyddelan, 8 m.; - Tal-y-Llyn, and Llyn - Cravnant, near - Llanrwst. - - _Hotel_.—The Eagles. -CONWY 12 _Objects of - Interest_.—The - Castle, Church, - Curious Monuments, - Plâs Mawr, Ormshead, - Suspension and - Tubular Bridges. - - _Angling - Stations_.—Same as - above. - - _Hotels_.—Castle & - Newborough Arms. -BANGOR 9 _Objects of - Interest_.—Penrhyn - Castle, Slate - Quarries, Britannia - Tubular Bridge, Menai - Bridge, Beaumaris, - Castle, Penmon - Monastery, Plas - Newydd, Baron Hill, - Puffin Island, and - the Cathedral. - - _Angling - Stations_.—Llyn - Ogwen, Llyn Idwal, - and Ogwen River. - - _Hotels_.—The Penrhyn - Arms, Castle, - Liverpool Arms, and - Albion. -CARNARVON 8 _Objects of - Interest_.—The - Castle, the Harbour, - and Ruins of - Segontium, at - Llanbeblig. - - _Hotels_.—Uxbridge - Arms, Castle, and - Sportsman. - - _Angling - Stations_.—The - Seiont, Pont Newydd. -_And back to Bangor_ 8 -ABERGELE 25¼ _Objects of - Interest_.—Kinmel - Park, Gwrych Castle. - - _Angling - Stations_.—Elwy, - Aled. - - _Hotel_.—Bee. -RHYL 4¼ _Objects of - Interest_.—A _detour_ - viâ Rhuddlan, 2 m., - St. Asaph, 3½, - Denbigh, 6, affords a - pleasant day’s - excursion. - - _Angling - Stations_.—Clwyd and - Elwy. - - _Hotels_.—Belvoir, - Royal, Mostyn Arms. -HOLYWELL 13 _Objects of - Interest_.—St. - Winefred’s Well, - Basingwerk. - - _Hotels_.—White - Horse, King’s Arms, - King’s Head, Red - Lion. -FLINT 5 _Object of - Interest_.—The - Castle. - - _Hotels_.—Royal Oak, - Ship. -HAWARDEN 7½ _Objects of - Interest_.—Castle and - Park. - - _Hotel_.—Glynne Arms. -CHESTER 7 _Objects of - Interest_.—The Castle - and Armory, the - Walls, Rows, - Cathedral, Old Houses - in Watergate Street, - Underground Chapel in - Bridge Street, and - the Ancient Residence - of the Earls of - Derby. - - _Angling - Station_.—The Dee. - - _Hotels_.—Royal, - Albion, Feathers, - White Lion, Green - Dragon, Blossoms, - Hop-pole. - - - - -FIVE DAYS’ EXCURSION FROM CHESTER OR SHREWSBURY. - - -FIRST DAY.—Chester or Shrewsbury to Llangollen Road Station by rail, 20 -miles; Llangollen, 5 m; Corwen, 10 m. -SECOND DAY.—Bettws y Coed, 22½ m; Llanrwst, 5 m; Capel Curig, 10 m. -THIRD DAY.—Llanberis, 10 m; Dolbadarn Castle and back, 4 m; Beddgelert, -12 m; Pont Aber Glaslyn and back, 3 m; Carnarvon, 13 m. -FOURTH DAY.—Bangor, 8 m; Plas Newydd, 5 m; Beaumaris, 6½ m. -FIFTH DAY.—Conwy, 14¼ m; Llandudno, Orme’s Head, back to Conwy, 10; and -per rail to Chester, 45½ m. - - - - -NINE DAYS’ EXCURSION FROM CHESTER. - - -FIRST DAY.—Chester to Hawarden, 7 m; Flint, 7 m; Holywell, 5 m. -SECOND DAY.—Rhyl, 13½ m; Rhuddlan, 2 m; St. Asaph, 3½ m; Denbigh, 6 m. -THIRD DAY.—Abergele, 13 m; Conwy, 11 m.; Llandudno and back, 10 m. -FOURTH DAY.—Bangor, 14½ m.; Plas Newydd, 5 m; Beaumaris, 6 m. (See -Bridges.) -FIFTH DAY.—Holyhead and back, 50 m; Carnarvon, 8. -SIXTH DAY.—Beddgelert, 13 m; Pont Aber Glaslyn and back, 3 m; Llanberis, -12 m; Dolbadarn and back, 4 m. -SEVENTH DAY.—Capel Curig, 10 m.; Rhaiadr y Wennol, 3½ m.; Bettws y Coed, -1½ m; Llanrwst, 5 m. -EIGHTH DAY.—Corwen, 26 m; Llangollen, 10 m. (See Valle Crucis Abbey, -Castell Dinas Brân, and Plâs Newydd.) -NINTH DAY.—Pont y Cysylltau Aqueduct, 3 m; Chirk, 3 m; (see Chirk Castle -and Brynkinalt;) Ruabon, 6; (see Wynnstay); Wrexham, 4½; Chester, 12 m. - - * * * * * - -*** For objects of interest, angling stations, and hotels, see first -Route. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - -Preliminary Observations.—Preparations for a Tour.—Rail to -Shrewsbury.—Battlefield Church.—Chirk.—The Castle.—Brynkinalt.—Viaducts -and Aqueducts.—A Delightful Walk.—Llangollen. - - “Like brethren now do Welshmen still agree - In as much love as any men alive; - The friendship there and concord that I see - I doe compare to bees in honey hive, - Which keep in swarme, and hold together still, - Yet gladly showe to stranger great good will; - A courteous kinde of love in every place - A man may finde, in simple people’s face.” - - CHURCHYARD. - -VARIOUS, as the features of human nature, are the sources of human -happiness. Some derive their choicest pleasure from historical accounts -of men who lived in by-gone ages, and in re-creating events that have -long since been engulphed in the abyss of time,—breaking down the barrier -of intervening years, and mingling, in idea, with those who were once -deemed the glorious of the earth, who now lie blended with its grossest -atoms, or are confounded with the purer elements. Some, parching with -the thirst of knowledge, seek to slake the fever of their minds with most -laborious research; explore the utmost regions of the globe to find a -shorter marine passage; or pierce into its depths to seek for treasures -which only exist in their heated fancies. The vast ocean is fathomed to -satisfy the ruling principle of their natures,—curiosity; and the realms -of air traversed with the same motive to insure the universally desired -result, self-gratification. While some, leaving the elements to perform -the destined changes, are willing to agree with the poet, who in the -warmth of his philanthropy exclaims: - - “The proper study of mankind is man;” - -and among this class of beings the author of these pages may be ranked, -although he willingly confesses nature has the power of charming him in -her most minute as in her most stupendous works, from the curious and -confined instinct of the ant and of the bee to the wonderful and -exhaustless energies of the human mind, - - “That source - Whence learning, virtue, wisdom, all things flow.” - -The court, the city, and the country, present an endless variety of -subjects for contemplation; and the latter being the region of delight to -those whose business confines them to the metropolis for the winter -months, the author of this volume is anxious to be thought a useful and -amusing companion to such tourists who, in pursuit of health and the -charms of nature, may wander - - “In the Welsh vales ’mid mountains high.” - -where the sublime and beautiful present themselves at every turn to -captivate the eye, and ruddy health colours the smiling faces of every -peasant girl and shepherd boy, from Chirk to Holyhead. - -To a mind capable of estimating fine scenery, how delightful are the -hurry and bustle which usually take place on the morning of departure, in -fond expectation of realizing the anticipated pleasure of viewing those -beauties of nature the imagination has but weakly painted! The sun is -scarcely sooner up than the traveller; and, although, perhaps, it is yet -three hours to the time of departure, his anxiety preponderates over the -now slighted comforts of his bed of down, and with an agile leap he quits -his restless pillow, and hastily despatching the business of his toilet, -with his heart beating high, and his knapsack already stuffed with three -shirts, as many pairs of stockings, guide books, and as few other -necessaries as may be, in order to make his walking wardrobe as light as -possible, he prepares to take the road. If a disciple of old Izaac -Walton and Cotton, he will not fail to have his book of flies, lines, -reels, &c., and a light fly-rod to carry in his hand, and for which he is -sure to have use whenever he feels inclined for piscatory pastime on his -tour. So stocked and provided, he bids defiance to the evils of life; -and may exclaim with the poet - - “Warly cares and warly men - May a’ gae tapsalteeree O!” - -“The cab is at the door, Sir.” - -“Very good.” - -“Is everything I want put into it?” - -“Yes, Sir.” - -“Well, good-bye!” - -“Now, my man, drive to Euston-square Station.” - -“All right, Sir.” And away we went, - -What a scene of bustle and confusion a metropolitan railway station -presents a few minutes before the starting of a train, and more -especially in holiday time. Men, women, and children, in every -direction, hurriedly traversing the crowded platform; luggage barrows, -with porters, rushing to and fro; newspaper venders bawling “_Times_! -_Chronicle_! _Punch_!” Cabs galloping into the yard with anxious -passengers; others, after having deposited their living burthens, slowly -quitting it; the crowd of persons pressing forward for their tickets, -jamming and jostling each other, as if the existence of each individual -depended upon his or her obtaining that necessary passport. At length -all are supplied and seated in their various carriages. Phiz! goes the -steam, and the train slowly and majestically quits the station, gathering -fresh speed in its progress, until the travellers find themselves whirled -along at the rate of thirty or forty miles an hour; station after station -appear and disappear like the lightning flash of a summer’s cloud— - - “A moment bright, then lost for ever,” - -and in the short space of a few hours the journey to Shrewsbury is -accomplished. - - - -BATTLEFIELD. - - -Within two miles of Shrewsbury, and nearly the same distance from the -railway, upon the right of the line, the traveller will behold -Battlefield Church, built by Henry the Fourth to commemorate the -celebrated Battle of Shrewsbury, which, like that of Bosworth, has been -immortalised by the magic pen of Shakspere. Who cannot call to -remembrance the gallant and fiery Hotspur, or the future Hero of -Agincourt?—“Young Harry with his beaver on,”—and last, not least, fat -Jack Falstaff, his humourous catechism upon “Honour;” with whom -discretion was the better part of valour, notwithstanding his “long -hour’s fight by Shrewsbury clock?” Here, covered with wounds, the -ambitious Hotspur fell, and his dead body, which had been buried on the -field, was unearthed, and barbarously bruised between two millstones, and -afterwards beheaded and quartered. - - - -SHREWSBURY. - - -The old town of Shrewsbury contains many objects of considerable interest -and historical association, which will afford to the antiquary or the -curious abundant gratification for the few hours he may devote to them. -Those to which the traveller should in particular direct his attention -are the Castle, the Abbey, and St. Giles’s Church; the two former were -built by the first Norman Earl of Shrewsbury, Roger de Montgomery. - -The town is beautifully situated on the Severn, on a peninsula made by -the bend of the river; and, standing upon gentle eminences, it presents a -bold and commanding appearance. Upon the west side of the town, -stretching along upon the banks of the river, and over-arched with -magnificent lime trees, is a most delightful promenade—called the Quarry. - -Having stayed the night in Shrewsbury, the following morning I once more -placed myself in a railway carriage for a short ride upon the line to -Chirk, at which place I had made up my mind to commence my pedestrian -tour. I think it necessary, however, to impress upon the minds of -tourists that the Llangollen Road Station (which is a mile beyond Chirk) -is unquestionably the key upon this side of the country to the very heart -of the finest scenery in Wales, and that from thence he can obtain public -conveyances which run daily to Capel Curig, Snowdon, Bala, Barmouth, -Dolgelley, and a hundred other enchanting places in the Principality. - -Arriving at Chirk Station, I, like the Honourable Dick Dowlas, with my -wardrobe on my back, and a light heart, proceeded on the road to the -village. Bees hummed, birds sang, and blossoms sent forth their -fragrance, to delight the traveller as he gaily trudged “the footpath -way.” Cheerfulness was above, beneath, and around me, and in my heart. -I had not taken many paces when I was accosted by an elderly person, in a -straw hat, fustian shooting coat, knee breeches, gaiters, and shoes, he -had a stout cudgel in his hand, and knapsack more capacious than mine -strapped over his shoulders. He appeared to be about fifty-five years of -age, and being furnished like myself, it struck me that a passing -traveller might naturally take us for father and son. - -Fortunately, we were pursuing the same route, and a desultory dialogue -commenced with the never-failing observation— - -“A fine morning, Sir.” - -“Very.” - -“A great admirer of the charms of nature, I presume?” - -“An enthusiastic one.” - -“You’re for the Welsh vales, I suppose?” - -“And mountains high,” I exclaimed, warming to my loquacious companion— - - “In the Welsh vales ’mid mountains high,” - -sang he, in a round-toned voice, with which I chimed in, and we were the -best friends on a sudden. - -There certainly is no society so interesting as that picked up by the -tourist, who leaves with contempt the starched formalities of a great -city behind him, and walks forth unencumbered by care, to enjoy the -society of mankind in its varied and unsophisticated nature. Every -person we meet affords us information and delight; for a kindred spirit -animates almost every individual whom you may chance to encounter in -countries remarkable for beauties of scenery, and especially in a region -like North Wales, where inns of the best kind are situated at the most -convenient points, and the foot passenger is treated with as much respect -as a lord in his carriage. The landlords of inns here think that a man -may make the proper use of his legs without being a beggar; and that the -costume of a pedestrian may cover the form of a gentleman. This -philanthropic conception contributes to form that happy combination, -civil hosts and merry travellers. - -There is no want of society, nor any difficulty in selecting that with -which you are best pleased; for every evening brings in fresh comers from -various quarters to the different places of rest and refreshment. The -exchange of information respecting routes, the different adventures of -the day, the peculiar feelings displayed in their recital, and -countenances lit up with pleasure, give a degree of animation to the -evening, never to be equalled in the brilliant drawing-room, the blaze of -which seems to put out the eyes of reason,— - - “And men are—what they name not to themselves - And trust not to each other.” - - - -THE VILLAGE OF CHIRK - - -is agreeably situated upon the northern bank of the river Ceiriog, which -divides England from Wales. The village church is dedicated to St. Mary, -and is an impropriation belonging to Valle Crucis Abbey, and contains -some monuments erected to the memories of the Chirk families. The most -interesting is that of the famous Sir Thomas Myddelton. In the -churchyard are some fine aged yew trees. - - - -BRYNKINALT. - - -Taking the road upon the left of the church, we entered the charming park -of Brynkinalt, and visited one of the most picturesque seats in the -Principality. This elegant mansion, with its ivy-covered walls, is the -principal residence of the Viscount Dungannon, who is descended from -Tudor Trevor, Earl of Hereford, founder of one of the fifteen tribes of -North Wales. Valle Crucis Abbey, as well as many of the churches in the -neighbourhood, have been greatly improved at his lordship’s expense, who -is distinguished for archæological taste and research. The house was -built during the reign of James the First, from a design by Inigo Jones, -and is delightfully situated upon the brow of a hill, from which -circumstance it derives its name. The park is divided by the river -Ceiriog. - -The late Duke of Wellington was maternally descended from this house. -His mother, the Countess of Mornington, who was a daughter of Arthur -Hill-Trevor, first Viscount Dungannon, spent much of her time here during -the boyhood of our illustrious hero, who frequently visited his noble -parent during the Eton holidays. There are yet living those who remember -the boyish frolics of him who was at a later period destined to act so -conspicuous a part in the world’s history. - -By permission of the noble proprietor, the house and grounds are -accessible to strangers during the summer months, and the paintings by -Claude, Titian, Salvator Rosa, Carravaggio, Zucharelli, &c., are well -worthy the inspection of the connoisseur and artist. - - - -CHIRK CASTLE. - - - “In Cambria’s noon of story, - Ere bright she set in glory, - The brave and great, in princely state, - All hail’d Chirk Castle walls. - With splendid arms returning, - The flaring torches burning, - ’Mid armour’s clang the clarions rang, - And search’d the sounding halls.” - - SONG BY F. M. DOVASTON, A.M. - -Chirk Castle is delightfully situated on the spacious domain, spreading -over the summit of, what would be deemed, by a southern, a lofty -mountain, but which is here only designated a hill, projecting from the -range of the Berwyn Mountains, and is well calculated to recall the -stories of the days of old, when flourished— - - “The good old rule, the simple plan, - That they should take who have the power, - And they should keep who can.” - -It is built of solid stone; and the ivy, mantling over the walls, gives -them an appearance of solemnity and grandeur peculiarly interesting. It -is quadrangular, and is strengthened by five massive towers, one at each -corner, and the fifth projecting from the principal front, through which -is a lofty entrance into the court-yard, 165 feet in length, and 100 feet -in breadth, surrounded on every side by noble suites of apartments. The -picture gallery measures 100 feet in length, by twenty-two in breadth, -and contains some very excellent paintings, and several portraits of the -Myddelton family. Amongst the latter is that of Sir Thomas Myddelton, -who defended himself gallantly against the forces of Cromwell. He was -rewarded for his loyalty by Charles the Second, who granted him £30,000 -for the loss he had sustained, besides many valuable presents; amongst -others, a cabinet, which is shewn in the gallery, valued at £7000, richly -ornamented with silver; in various compartments of which are paintings, -said to have been executed by Rubens. The monarch offered to elevate Sir -Thomas to the peerage, which he declined. - - [Picture: Chirk Castle] - -The walls of the castle are eighteen feet in thickness; but sleeping and -other apartments have been cut into them, for the accommodation of the -family. - -The celebrated picture of Pistyll Rhaiadr, in the dining-room, shows that -noble waterfall tumbling into the _sea_, _where several ships are quietly -riding at anchor_. “Pistyll Rhaiadr,” _i.e._ “The Spout of the -Cataract,” is considered the largest fall in Wales. In the valley of -Mochnant, about four miles from Llanrhaiadr, the river falls over an -almost perpendicular rock, 240 feet high; thence rushing furiously under -a natural arch towards the bottom, it plunges into a deep black pool, -overhung with impervious shaggy wood. - -The story of the artist’s introducing the ocean, with ships, is rather -curious. He was a foreigner, and but little acquainted with the English -language; and when he had completed the picture, one of the persons to -whom it was first shown observed, that “a few _sheep_ placed near the -foot of the fall would be a great improvement.” Misunderstanding _sheep_ -for _ship_, his amazement was extreme. He, however, took the picture to -his easel, and introduced _ships_, with the necessary element to float -them! A mistake so humourous determined the purchaser to allow of no -further alteration. - -The present building was completed in two years. The first stone being -laid in the year 1011, and in 1013 the castle frowned defiance to the -foe. - -It was built by Roger Mortimer, Earl of Wigmore, as a stronghold to -defend him from the just vengeance he had created by the murder of the -sons of Gruffydd ab Madoc, to whom he was appointed guardian, in -conjunction with John, Earl of Warren, in the hope of inheriting their -joint estates. Mortimer was to seize upon Nanheudwy and Chirk, the -property of the youngest; and Warren upon the lands of Bromfield, Yale, -and Dinas Bran, belonging to the eldest. Travellers should not neglect -to visit this noble specimen of warlike architecture. Its picture -gallery and dungeon will, in their different styles, excite admiration. - -On the foundation of the present castle anciently stood Castle Crogen; -and the territory around bore the name of Trev-y Waun, the property of -the lords of Dinas Bran, which continued in their possession up to the -death of Gruffydd ab Madoc, in the reign of Edward the First. - -The view from the highlands of the park is very extensive, and commands a -prospect of seventeen different counties. - -The vale beneath, which winds along the foot of the vast Berwyn -Mountains, was the scene of a desperate conflict between Henry the Second -and the Welsh. Henry having determined once more to attempt the -subjugation of Wales, and to revenge the ravages carried through the -borders by its gallant prince, Owen Gwynedd, assembled a vast army at -Oswestry. Owen, on the contrary, collected all the chieftains and their -dependents at Corwen. The two armies met on the banks of the Ceiriog. -The conflict was obstinate and bloody, and numbers of brave men perished. -In the end the Welsh retired to Corwen. Henry reached the summit of the -Berwyn, but was so distressed by dreadful rains, and by the activity and -prudence of Owen, who cut him off from all supplies, that he was obliged -to return ingloriously, with considerable loss of men and equipage. The -place is still called _Adwy’r Beddau_, or the Pass of the Graves—of the -men who were slain there. - -The remains of Offa’s Dyke, the ancient boundary between England and -Wales, are still visible near the castle, and may be traced a -considerable distance through the park. - -The Vale of the Ceiriog at Chirk, like that of the Dee between Chirk and -Llangollen, is distinguished by two specimens of architectural skill and -enterprise, each valley being crossed by the Ellesmere Canal and the -Shrewsbury and Chester Railway, upon long ranges of arches, at a -considerable elevation. - -The aqueducts of Chirk and Pont y Cysylltau have long been the objects of -general admiration, but for elegance of design, as well as magnitude, -they must now yield the palm to the viaducts of the railway, which are, -in truth, most noble structures. - -In this lovely village we put up at the Chirk Castle Arms to take -luncheon, which was served with much civility—cold meat, a cream salad, -and a capital Cheshire cheese, with the best of Shropshire ale. This -excellent inn is kept by Mr. Moses. - -After proceeding about a mile and a half on the Llangollen Road, and -leaving Wynnstay, the noble mansion of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart., -M.P., on the right, we were conducted along the banks of a beautiful -canal (the same that crosses the valley at Chirk), which was here planted -with laurel and hazel in pleasing variety on either side. On a sudden, -an opening in the foliage presented us with a splendid view of the Vale -of the Dee, with the two noble structures, the viaduct and aqueduct, -gracefully stretching from hill to hill, and the waters of the river -making their way amongst the broken rocks and embowering trees, and -rolling under their arches with that delightful sound which is only heard -in mountain scenery. - -Seldom had I experienced so delightful a sensation as the present -prospect occasioned. All was so calm, so quiet, it seemed, indeed, “the -Happy Valley.” Shortly after, however, we found that no golden pleasure -is entirely free from alloy, for on turning a projection upon the road, -we were nearly stifled from a lime furnace, and what was worse, another -and another still succeeded, resembling a line of batteries blazing and -vomiting forth smoke and destruction, while upon the opposite mountain an -uniform body of iron works were firing away from their tall chimneys, and -steadily maintained the never-ceasing conflict. - -At length, however, having happily passed these belligerents, my -companion led me in triumph into a little public house on the road side, -which overlooked a precipice, the _Aqueduct Tavern_, the exterior of -which promised little better accommodation than is met with in an Irish -cabin. We entered, nevertheless, and although the floor was of brick, it -was very clean, and the household utensils glittered along the walls. - -“Pray, gentlemen, walk into the back parlour,” said a comely-looking, -good-natured landlady of forty-three. - -We gladly accepted her invitation, and were agreeably surprised to find a -neat room, carpeted, with a sofa, and half-a-dozen hair-bottomed chairs, -and every thing rurally comfortable. The window looked upon the -aqueduct, and commanded a beautiful prospect. - -Having discussed our beverage, and lighted cigars, we quitted the -comfortable little cottage, and bent our steps towards the aqueduct, to -cross by it to the opposite side of the Vale. - -A cigar in the cool of the evening is delightful,— - - “Glorious tobacco, that from east to west, - Cheers the tar’s labour, and the Turk-man’s rest.” - -So sang the noble bard, the music of whose lyre is left to charm the race -of mankind for ages yet to come. - -We soon reached the centre of the aqueduct; it extends, from hill to -hill, in length 980 feet; it is sustained by twenty piers, 115 feet in -height from the bed of the river Dee, and the span of the arches is -forty-five feet. - -The length of the viaduct is 1,538 feet; its height 147 feet, the number -of arches nineteen, and the span of each arch is sixty feet. - -I never felt the influence of the sublime mingled with the beautiful so -deeply as when I stood upon this wonderful work of art; wherever I turned -my eyes the scene was calculated to excite the warmest feelings of -admiration. The Dee flowing beneath, shadowed by the rich tints of the -summer foliage; the ruined bridge; the dark mountain masses upon either -side, patched with gloomy pines, intermingled with the relieving -brightness of the graceful larch. Here waves the lovely blooming -heather, there stands the blasted rock in its naked majesty, the noble -amphitheatre at the extremity of the vale, with a distant view of the -viaduct; the twittering of the birds, as they settled to repose upon the -trees around, altogether gave a charm to the evening which can only be -felt while witnessing the scene, and which exceeds the power of -description. - -Having crossed the aqueduct, we proceeded by the left bank of the canal, -passing a forge, that nearly stifled us with gaseous smoke, along a -pathway made of cinders and small coal, the refuse of the adjacent -iron-smelting foundry. - -Trees of every description hung over our heads, and sloped down a deep -declivity to the margin of the Dee, while on the opposite bank the -mountain frowned above us. The partial glances we obtained of the vale -through the woods, discovered scenes which the artist’s fancy might -vainly attempt to equal. - -At length we reached the Bridge of Llangollen, whence the river is seen -to great advantage, tumbling over its rocky bed, and rushing beneath the -dark shelter of the over-hanging trees. The village is small, and -contains two respectable hotels, viz., the Hand, at which we stopped by -the advice of my companion, and the Royal Hotel. - -We were shown into a very good parlour, and after ordering a tea and -supper dinner, my friend, somewhat exhausted by the day’s march, flung -himself upon a sofa, while I resumed my journal, and soon afterwards -retired to my bed-room, where the murmurs of the flowing Dee were -distinctly heard beneath the window. - -“Here I am, then,” said I, soliloquising, as I pressed the pillow; “here -am I, at length, in the Vale of Llangollen; in the village of -Llangollen,—a spot which I have so often longed to visit!” - - “Flow on, thou shining river!” - -and in a few moments I sank soundly to sleep. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - -Plas Newydd.—Castell Dinas Brân.—Valle Crucis Abbey.—Pillar of -Eliseg.—Vale of the Dee.—Corwen.—Route to Llandrillo.—Vale of -Edeyrnion.—Arrival at Bala. - - “I crossed in its beauty the Dee’s druid water, - The waves as I passed rippled lonely and lone, - For the brave on their borders had perished in slaughter, - The noble were banished, the gifted were gone.” - - W. WIFFEN. - -I WAS dreaming of home, and happiness, and a thousand lovely things, when -I was awakened by my new acquaintance, who stood before me dressed for a -sturdy walk. “A lovely morning,” said my companion, rubbing his hands -with much delight; “come, bustle, bustle, my young friend; you are not in -London, now. Permit me to open the lattice; you will find no perfume at -your chamber window in town like this; and, as he spoke, he flung open -the casement, and a rush of fragrance poured into the room from hundreds -of roses that clustered upon the wall without; nor was my friend at all -deficient in praising its sweetness, for, taking a long breath, he stood, -for a moment, with his mouth wide open, and then sent forth a sigh, long -enough to form a bridge over the river for the fairies to cross upon. - -“Shall we breakfast before we set out upon our ramble? I think we had -better give orders for it, and visit the cottage where Lady Eleanor -Butler and Miss Ponsonby so long resided, while it is preparing.” - -This being agreed to, we gave directions for a breakfast, that would -enable us to undergo the subsequent fatigue with cheerfulness, and then -struck into the road for Plas Newydd. This memorable little dwelling is -pleasantly situated upon a rising knoll, and commands a delightful -prospect of mountain scenery. - - [Picture: Font in the Grounds of Plâs Newydd] - -The front of the cottage is ornamented with an oaken palisade, curiously -carved with grotesque figures, giving a very tasty and aristocratic -appearance to the building. At the back of the house is a neat grass -plot, with a birdcote, where the robins find a grateful shelter in the -winter season, and where the ladies fed them every morning. It is -surrounded with a fence of evergreens. From thence, the gardener -conducted us under an archway, to a very pleasant and winding path, which -leads to a well-stocked fruit garden. We then descended by a shady walk, -arched over with tall trees, to the primrose vale, through which a -refreshing stream rushes over rocks, where the sun but rarely gilds it -with its beams. It is a delightful cool retreat, and well calculated to -awaken the dormant spirit of poesy, in any heart where it had ever -deigned to dwell. We passed over a rustic bridge which led us to the -verandah, from which we had a fine view of the valley, and the Pengwern -and Berwyn Mountains; and then proceeding a little farther up the glen, -we seated ourselves opposite a most picturesque font, brought hither from -the ruins of Valle Crucis, by the late proprietors of this spot. It is -enclosed in a small arched niche, and supplied with the purest water from -a murmuring rill, which falls in a thin stream into the bowl, a draught -from which is an exquisite treat—for _water_ drinkers. - -The flower garden is laid out with great taste, and the little circular -dairy, sunk in the ground, on the left at the front entrance, gives a -most pleasing and picturesque effect. Altogether it is a place to which -any person, wearied with the bustle of society, would willingly fly for -refuge, and find repose. - -Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby were young ladies of beauty and -rank, who loved each other with so true an affection that they could -never bear the afflicting idea of a separation which the marriage of -either might occasion. They, therefore, resolved upon lives of celibacy, -refusing many handsome offers, and remaining deaf to the persuasions of -their friends, they retired to the beautiful Vale of Llangollen to enjoy -the happiness of each other’s company, that as their friendship began in -infancy it might be perpetuated through life. - -These celebrated ladies were the pride of Llangollen for more than half a -century, and by their numerous charities and general kindness of -disposition, had endeared themselves to the hearts of the whole -neighbourhood. It is worthy of remark that during the long period of -their residence in Wales, they never, for a single night slept from home. -They occasionally visited the theatres at Wrexham and Oswestry, on -charitable occasions, or when a “star” was engaged; but their invariable -custom was to return home after the performances, whatever might be the -state of the weather. - -In the lively Memoirs of the late Mr. Charles Matthews, the celebrated -comedian, is the following description of “the Ladies of Llangollen,” but -it must be remembered that at that time - - “Age, with stealing, stealing steps, - Had clawed them in his clutch.” - - “OSWESTRY, Sept. 4, 1820. - - “The dear inseparable inimitables, Lady Butler and Miss Ponsonby were - in the boxes here on Friday. They came twelve miles from Llangollen, - and returned, as they never sleep from home. Oh! such curiosities! - I was nearly convulsed. I could scarcely get on for the first ten - minutes after my eye caught them. Though I had never seen them, I - instantly knew them. As they are seated, there is not one point to - distinguish them from men; the dressing and powdering of the hair; - their well-starched neckcloths; the upper part of their habits, which - they always wear even at a dinner-party, made precisely like men’s - coats, and regular black beaver hats. They exactly looked like two - respectable superannuated clergymen.” - -In returning through the churchyard we passed the monument to the memory -of Lady Eleanor Butler, Miss Ponsonby, and their faithful servant, Mary -Carroll. - -The church is of considerable antiquity, but has very little left of -architectural beauty; some fine carvings on the roof and in the interior -still attest its former consequence. It is noteworthy, however, inasmuch -as the remains of the saint to whom it is dedicated are buried under its -sacred roof. Pennant gives his name in full, which is _Saint Collen ab -Gwynnawg_, _ab Clydawg_, _ab Cowrda_, _ab Caradog Vreicvhras_, _ab Llyr -Merim_, _ab Einion Yrth_, _ab Cunedda Wledig_, by _Ethni Wyddeles_, -daughter to _Matholwch_, lord of _Cwl_, in the kingdom of _Ireland_. - -We now returned with good appetites to do justice to the fare provided by -our host of the Hand, and here I was first destined to hear the sounds of -the Welsh harp. As we discussed our fare, the harper in the hall played -up his liveliest tunes. - -Breakfast being despatched, we slung our pistols, _i.e._, leathern -bottles, filled with _eau de vie_, to our sides, and started to view the -ruins of Dinas Brân, an ancient fortress up the summit of a conical -mountain, which forms the principal feature of this portion of the vale, -and is indeed a striking object from almost every part of the -neighbourhood. The ascent begins near the foot of the ancient bridge -opposite to the town, which was built in the early part of the fourteenth -century, by the first John Trevor, Bishop of St. Asaph. The view through -the arches, either up or down the river, is extremely picturesque. - -My companion was strongly built, and being accustomed to rambling amongst -the Welsh vales and over its steepest mountains, far outstripped me in -the ascent, which was by no means easy. We took a zig-zag direction up -the hill, which was too precipitous to mount in a direct way, and as we -approached the summit the ascent became more difficult; at length, after -some little toil, we stood by the side of the _Well_, whose pure water -gave joy to the inhabitants of this ancient fortress many hundred years -ago, and still offers a welcome draught to the pilgrim who possesses -sufficient perseverance to seek it. - -The view from the summit of this mountain is beautiful in the extreme; -commanding the vale east to west, with the widely spreading plains beyond -its eastern extremity, and the grand and picturesque mountain scenery -which forms the western boundary. Chirk Castle, Wynnstay, Valle Crucis -Abbey, and Glyndwrdu, are distinctly visible from this elevation, while -the romantic Dee is seen winding beneath, in light and shadow beautifully -varied by the hills and woods that droop over its banks. - - - -CASTELL DINAS BRAN. - - -The present remains of this ancient fortress are a few scattered walls. -There is little doubt that it is of British origin, but the period of its -erection, as well as the name of its founder is buried in oblivion. The -original dimensions of its walls were about 300 feet long and 150 feet -broad. - - [Picture: Castell Dinas Brân] - -In the reign of Henry the Third it afforded an asylum from his enraged -countrymen to Gruffydd ab Madoc, who basely betrayed his country to that -monarch. - -In 1390 this castle was inhabited by Myvanwy Vechan, a most beautiful and -accomplished female. She was of the house of Tudor Trevor, and her -father, Ednyved Vychan, then held the castle under the noble Earl of -Arundel, in the reign of the unfortunate Richard the Second. She was -beloved by Howel ab Einion Lygliw, a celebrated bard, who addressed her -in a most charming ode. - -On the north-west side of the hill is an adjacent rock called Craig -Eglwyseg, or the Eagle’s Rock. For more than half a mile this rock lies -stratum upon stratum, in such a manner as to form a kind of steps, -parallel with the horizon, called by naturalists _saxa sedilia_, -affording a remarkable geological phenomenon. - - - -VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY, - - - [Picture: Valle Crucis Abbey] - -Like most abbeys, is beautifully situated. The monks of old well -appreciated the value of rich lands and clear streams. This exquisite -relic of a past age was founded in the year 1200, by Gruffydd ab Madoc, -Lord of Bromfield and Yale, and of the neighbouring castle, Dinas Brân; -and in conformity with the rule of the Cistercian fraternity, was -dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary. The remains of the abbey at -present existing consist of the church, and of a building on the southern -side, part of which seems to have formed the abbot’s lodgings, the -refectory, and the dormitory above, now tenanted by a farmer. The church -is a cruciform building, of which the northern side has been almost -destroyed, and no vestige remains of the roof except in the eastern aisle -of the southern transept. - -In the midst of these hallowed precincts, and until the last -twelvemonths, the rubbish was heaped up to a great height, probably by -the fall of the northern wall, and by the remains of the roof, but -through the praiseworthy exertions of a nobleman in the neighbourhood, -Viscount Dungannon, the whole has been cleared away, leaving the pavement -and sides as they existed in former days. - -The eastern end is most ancient, and it is adorned by three lancet -arches, forming one grand window. - -The entrance was in the west, under a broad and beautiful window, above -which is a smaller one of marigold form, decorated with tracery and fret -work, and beneath it may be deciphered the following inscription:— - - QUIESCAT AME - - + ADAM ABBAS FECIT HOC OPUS I PACE. - -The intelligent _cicerone_ of this ancient building is Miss Jane Lloyd, -who has lived in this retired but delightful spot for some years. She -has a perfect knowledge of the Welsh language, and of the history of -these interesting ruins, which no one who has visited them can cease to -remember with admiration and regret. - - - -THE PILLAR OF ELISEG. - - -Not far from the abbey, in a field called Llwyn-y-Groes, or the Grove of -the Cross, stands this famous pillar, which was erected above a thousand -years ago to the memory of Eliseg, the father of a Prince of Powis, -called Brochwel Ysgythrog, who met his death at the Battle of Chester, in -607. - -It is among the first lettered stones that succeed the Meini-Hirion, -Meini-Gwyr, and Llechau, and stood on a great tumulus, perhaps always -environed with wood, according to the custom of the most ancient times. -During the civil wars it was thrown down and broken, and the shaft, which -was originally twelve feet, is now reduced to eight. At the suggestion -of Mr. Price, Bodleian Librarian, and a great antiquary, Mr. Lloyd, of -Trevor Hall, had it placed in its present position. - -From Valle Crucis Abbey we proceeded to the banks of the Dee, and -crossing the rude bridge over the river, struck into the high road to -Corwen. The country became highly interesting. The mountains are lofty; -and beneath, upon the right, Glyndwrdu the _Valley of the Dee_, discloses -its picturesque beauty. - -The vale is so serpentine that it presents a succession of most exquisite -views, and after a walk of three miles, on looking back, Castell Dinas -Brân seems placed upon a lower eminence. The Valley of Llangollen may be -seen likewise from hence for many miles, terminated by the distant -horizon. - - [Picture: Pillar of Eliseg] - -The Valley of the Dee was the patrimony of the renowned -Glyndwr—Shakspere’s Glendower—and with many a mountain side and summit do -the natives delight to associate his name. Just beyond the seventh -mile-stone, will be seen a kind of tumulus crested with a clump of firs; -this is Glyndwr’s Mount, and is, we believe, fixed upon as the site of -his palace. - -After passing the picturesque village of Llansaintfraid, nothing occurs -to arrest the attention till Corwen is reached. The hotel is named after -the mighty Owen, and has a gigantic head over the door, much resembling -the Saracen’s, of Snow Hill notoriety. - -The first question put to the jolly landlord was, “What can you give us -to eat?”—It was about three o’clock in the day. - -“Why, sir, there is a nice roast duck, and some peas.” - -“And how long, pray, will it be before it is ready?” - -“A quarter of an hour.” - -“Very well, that will do; and in the interim I will visit the church.” - -In a few minutes I was conducted to the ancient edifice. - -On one side of the altar is the lid of a coffin, which bears the -following inscription:— - - “HIC JACET JORWERTH SULIEN, VICARIUS DE CORVAEN. ORA PRO EO.” - -In the church wall is shewn the private doorway through which Owen -Glyndwr entered the building whenever he attended divine worship, and in -the rock which overhangs the churchyard, there is a recess which bears -the name of Owen Glyndwr’s Chair; and the stone which now forms the -lintel of the doorway leading to his pew, is said to retain the mark of -his dagger, half an inch in depth, which he threw from the said chair; -but upon what occasion it is not stated. - -In the cemetery there is a Cross, fixed in a circular stone, westward of -the steeple; and it is supposed that the name of Corwen is a corruption -of Corvaen, and derived from this Cross. _Cor_ signifies a circle, and -_maen_ (which is likewise considered to have been changed into _vaen_) if -joined to _cor_, means a cross in the circle. - -Having satisfied my curiosity here, I returned to the inn, and the first -object which met my delighted eyes, was the promised duck, accompanied by -a dish of most elegant trout: a dainty for which I had been longing ever -since I entered this territory of rocks and torrents. My friend was -already placed at the table, and he clapped his hands, and rubbed them -with evident delight and satisfaction at seeing me arrive so opportunely. - -The fish despatched, duck and green peas, in close column brought up the -rear. But I and my gallant comrade—a better trencherman ne’er poised a -fork—attacked in line, cut up the one, and routed the other with the most -determined bravery. The right and left wings were attacked and cut off -from the main body, which, with all its materials, we dispersed in the -glorious conflict, remaining masters of the field. - -Although I thus warmly express my satisfaction at partaking of this -not-easily-to-be-forgotten luxury, let me not be mistaken for a gourmand; -but a wet and tired traveller, however much his mind may be enchanted by -the scenery through which he passes, never beholds a more delightful -prospect than a comfortable meal at his journey’s end. - -It so happened, however, that this was not to be my journey’s end, as it -was my intention to reach Bala before nightfall. - -At this spot my companion and I were to separate: his path lay towards -Cerrig-y-druidion, and mine towards Llandrillo and the Vale of Edeyrnion. - -With a feeling of regret I never before experienced at quitting a new -acquaintance of so short a standing, I squeezed his hand, and once more -took the road for another walk of ten miles. - -At a short distance from Corwen, a road branches off to the left, along -which the traveller should trudge to the village of Llandrillo, and he -will be repaid by the sight of one of the most fertile valleys in Wales. -It is a mile farther to Bala by this route, but the superior beauty of -the scenery will amply recompence him for the extra distance, for, with -the exception of a view of Bala Lake, obtained from an eminence, the -road, which runs along the opposite side of the valley, is dull and -uninviting. But on the contrary, by the Llandrillo route, the eye is -delighted with a succession of scenes varied and interesting in the -extreme. Huge masses of rock hang over the road upon the left, in -threatening grandeur, while waving woods and falling streams give endless -variety to the picture. - -After proceeding five miles, I crossed a bridge over a fine trout-stream, -the banks of which are shaded with trees, and turning into an avenue upon -the right, seated myself by the margin of the brook, secured from the hot -rays of the mid-day sun, I fancied myself the melancholy Jacques. There -only wanted a wounded stag, to make the illusion perfect. - -As I entered the village of Llandrillo, I was much delighted with the -lively scene. The long street was crowded with peasantry, in their -holiday clothes. On each side were stalls, formed of tubs turned upside -down, and boards placed upon them, to support their merchandise; square -patches strewed with straw and covered with crockery and glass; tables -well stored with woollen hose and mittens; and stands of gingerbread and -ginger-pop were liberally stationed in different quarters, to gratify and -refresh the happy throng. At times, a sudden opening in the crowd took -place, the whole mass of people jamming each other upon either side of -the street, to make way for a trotting pony, or an ambling nag, to curvet -and prance down the middle and up again, to show his paces. At the upper -end of the fair, a hardware man harangued a crowd of people from his -travelling warehouse (a covered cart,) endeavouring to persuade them that -he came to Llandrillo solely for their benefit, and for no selfish motive -upon earth, and labouring to convince them, in brazier-like eloquence, -that the articles he offered to their notice were considerably under -prime cost, and could not be purchased elsewhere for treble the money; -but, though he sold at a great sacrifice to himself, he begged them not -to consider his loss, but their gain; such an opportunity would never -again present itself, therefore now was their only time to buy cheap! - -A party of Welsh girls attracted my attention, gathered together in front -of a wall, upon which a line of men’s hats were ranged, of various -qualities and prices; and great glee and laughter were elicited as each -fitted the new beaver upon her head, it being considered the _ne plus -ultra_ of taste, and a powerful auxiliary to the coquetry of a Welsh -girl. - -Leaving Llandrillo, and proceeding towards Bala, the traveller enters the - - - -VALE OF EDEYRNION. - - -The mountains here, upon either side, are covered with plantations, and -the beautiful Dee winds gracefully in the centre of the valley, through -delightful meadows, while corn fields wave upon the sloping banks, and -everything presents to the eye the appearance of freshness and fertility, -cheerfulness and content. At the bridge near Llanddervel, a small -village, which is first observed upon the opposite bank of the Dee, a -splendid view presents itself. The river here is broad, shallow, and -deep, by turns, and looking up or down the vale, its meandering -sportiveness charms the eye. At the extremity of the valley is a lofty -mountain, planted to the summit, which seems so closely to envelope it as -to prevent all egress. To stand upon this bridge at sunset, and listen -to the whistle of the sheep-boy as he trudges merrily along the road, the -song of the husbandman, or the joyous laugh of the milkmaids—sounds that -float upon the silent air for miles, at such an hour—the twittering of -the birds—the low crake of the rail, amidst the corn—and sweeter than -all, the music of the river, discharging liquid sounds from its -transparent bosom—creates a sensation which we are at a loss how to -express. Excess of pleasure becomes painful; and, overpowered with -delight, nature asserts her influence, and we experience the luxury of -tears!—at least, I did, and I pity from my soul the man who is -unfortunately incapable of a similar feeling. - -Passing through the little village of Llanvor, and crossing a stream over -the bridge close by the lodge of Mr. Price, of Rhiwlas, I at length -arrived at the White Lion, in the town of Bala; and, tired with my day’s -exertions, called for a tea-dinner and slippers, and early retired to -rest. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - -Bala.—The Lake.—A Jolter.—Glan y Llyn.—Vale of Drws y Nant.—Cader -Idris.—Dolgelley.—The Town Hall.—Parliament House.—St. Mary’s -Church.—Inns.—Angling Stations.—The Cataracts of Rhaiadr Du and Pistyll y -Cain.—Nannau Park.—Anecdote of Owen Glyndwr and Owen Sele.—Road to -Barmouth.—Arrival.—Inns.—A Walk on the Sands. - - “I lay on the rock where the storms have their dwelling, - The birth-place of phantoms, the home of the cloud, - Around it for ever deep music is swelling— - The voice of the mountain wind, solemn and loud.” - - MRS. HEMANS. - -ON the following morning I found myself unable to walk, from the effect -produced by a sprained ancle, and I had the delightful prospect of being -confined to the room of an inn in a country town, without a being to -converse with, or a book to enliven me; but my kind landlord, a fine, -portly, rosy-cheeked, round-headed, honest-hearted Boniface, as ever drew -spigot, kindly offered me a pony, to take me to the lake, which, he said, -contained plenty of perch. This offer I thankfully accepted, and, by the -aid of mine host and his ostler, was soon seated upon the back of a quiet -not-to-be-put-out-of-his-way animal, as any clerical gentleman could -desire to ride upon, and - - “With slow and solemn pace,” - -proceeded to catch fish, and view the scenery around - - - -LLYN TEGID, OR BALA LAKE. - - -Seated upon a rock that projects into the lake (under the shadow of which -is the boat-house of Mr. Price, of Rhiwlas,) I commenced my solitary -pastime; but my eyes continually wandered from the float to the -surrounding scenery, which is of a pleasing rather than an imposing -nature. The lake was slightly ruffled by a refreshing breeze, which -fortunately sprang up, and prevented me from dissolving in the heat of -the sun. It is about four miles in length, and in some parts it is forty -yards in depth. The shores are sloping, the soil gravelly, and -delightfully variegated with plantations of trees and shrubs. Towards -the head of the lake the mountains are upon a very grand scale, and rival -Snowdon in their altitude; Arran Vowddwy is the loftiest of these, near -the summit of which, upon its eastern side, beneath a huge crag, is -situated a lake, which affords excellent sport to the angler, although -the fish are not of the finest quality. - - [Picture: Bala Lake] - -Arrenig Vawr, (or great,) which is nearly as lofty as Arran Vowddwy, and -rises upon the N.W. side of the Llyn, has also a lake, containing trout -of a large size, which are noted for rejecting the artificial fly; but, -about half way up the Arrenig Vâch, (or little,) is a lake, which, when a -light breeze sweeps along its surface, will amply reward the angler for -his trouble in reaching it. A morning and an evening, at each of these -places, enable me to state thus much, for the benefit of the disciples of -Izaac Walton. - -I was suddenly aroused from a dream of pleasure, which I was enjoying -with my eyes open, by a tug at my line, reminding me that a fish had -swallowed the hook. After a little coquetting, which lovers usually make -use of, I brought it to my arms, and then thrust it into my bag: a fine -perch! I now resolved to begin in earnest, and in an hour, by my -temptation and insinuation, contrived to obtain a very handsome dish, -with which I returned upon my pony to the inn, resigning them and myself -to the care of mine hostess. - -The town of Bala consists of one long street, has about 2500 inhabitants, -and is celebrated for its manufacture of woollen articles, such as -stockings, gloves, and formerly Welsh wigs. Upon an eminence at the S.E. -end of the town, the old women and young girls assemble in considerable -numbers, during the summer months, to pursue their industrious avocations -in the open air. The mound is called Tommen y Bala; it is said to be of -Roman construction, and from the summit a very fine view may be obtained -of Llyn Tegid and the mountains. There is a town hall, and a chapel of -ease to the parish church at Llanycil, about a mile distant, where the -morning service is read in English only upon the first Sunday in each -month. - -Rising early the following morning I found no inconvenience from my -ancle, and after a good breakfast took leave of my host and his wife, -both of whom appeared anxious to see me comfortably seated in the -vehicle. - -The car in which I was bumped along the road, in every respect resembled -those delightful conveyances that rattle the astonished traveller from -Cork to Blarney. It is a sort of oval box, placed upon two wheels, with -a door behind, and with good wedging will contain four persons; but being -springless and cushionless, the passenger is jolted to his heart’s -content, that is, if his heart has been set on jolting; and, without -doubt, it is fine exercise for persons of sedentary habits, if by any -chance, their bones happen to escape dislocation. My knapsack (my -opposite, and only fellow passenger) and I, looked very black at each -other, as we bobbed up and down, like a cockney grocer’s apprentice upon -a high trotting horse; but I soon became resigned, and my knapsack having -shifted its berth for the bottom of the vehicle, seemed to rest more -comfortably than on the seat. Notwithstanding the inconvenience I -suffered from this carriage, I could not help admiring the extreme beauty -of the lake, as we pursued our course along its borders; sometimes only -catching a glimpse of it through the trees that shaded its delightful -margin. Its waters were smooth and motionless; not a ripple was visible -upon its surface; the lofty mountains reflected in its breast gave a -sombre tinge to the otherwise golden scene, and as I looked into the -clear depths of the shadows, I thought how peacefully one shattered by -the storms of life might sink beneath, and be at rest! - -After passing Glan y Llyn (an estate belonging to Sir W. W. Wynn, who -claims the whole fishing of this beautiful piece of water, and has, by -putting a quantity of pike therein, destroyed all the trout and gwynniad -with which it once abounded) the scenery became wild, and cheerless, -until we reached - - - -THE VALE OF DRWS Y NANT, - - -where, to my great satisfaction, the car stopped at the sign of the Welsh -Prince, a distance of ten miles from Bala, and eight from Dolgelley. -Being thoroughly tired with my ride, I thought I would endeavour to -obtain the proper use of my limbs, and rest myself by walking the -remainder of the journey. Dismissing the car, therefore, and strapping -my knapsack to my shoulders, I once more took the road. - -About a mile beyond the Welsh Prince the valley becomes truly beautiful. -Waving woods adorn the mountains upon either side. The Wnion here begins -to be an important stream; and, though in its course towards Dolgelley it -is swelled by numerous mountain tributaries into a broad river, the trees -upon its banks form an impenetrable screen, which conceal it from the -traveller, and its hoarse murmur, as it dashes over the rocks that vainly -endeavour to intercept its way, alone remind him of its vicinity. At -length I arrived at a spot where a road leads over a bridge to the -opposite side of the river. Thinking this would be a proper place to see -the Wnion to advantage, I advanced to the centre of the bridge. The -effect is beautiful; hanging woods adorn the banks of the stream, -lofty-ash trees (around the trunks of which the ivy winds itself in -snakelike folds, feeding upon the tree that supports it), spread their -proud heads above, and form a pleasing shade, while below the river -roars, as it is precipitated beneath the arch in two large falls, that -form a deep pool on the opposite side. - -Nearly the whole of this lovely valley is the property of Sir Robert -Vaughan. Pursuing my journey towards Dolgelley, a sudden turn in the -road and an opening in the dell revealed to my delighted eyes the -celebrated mountain called Cader Idris. - - - -CADER IDRIS, - - -the loftiest mountain in Merionethshire, and the second in North Wales, -is said to be 950 yards in perpendicular height from Dolgelley Green. -Cader Idris literally means “Idris’s chair,” where he is supposed to have -studied astrology; and Idris is a name attributed to Enoch, the founder -of astronomy. Mr. Edward Jones, to whom the public are indebted for his -learned and ingenious work, entitled “The Bardic Museum,” observes that -“Caer Idris implies the city of the learned;” and Mr. Rowland, in his -“Mona Antiqua,” mentions a place in Anglesey called Caer Idris, also Bôd -Idris, or “Idris’s abode or mansion,” in Yale, Denbighshire, which still -retains the name, as well as that of Llêch Idris, or “the shelter of -Idris,” a farm so called, at Trawsvynydd in Merionethshire, which also -may imply the grave of Idris. Idris is supposed to have flourished in -the third or fourth century, and his genealogy from an old manuscript, -runs thus:—“Idris Gawr ab Gwyddno, ab Tibion, ab Cunedda Wledig.” - - [Picture: Cader Idris, from the Bala Road] - -Snowdon and Cader Idris were formerly supposed to be the Parnassian hills -of Wales, and none but good bards could claim so elevated a seat. - -Idris, the champion or bard, invented the harp; or if the Gomerian -Britons brought that instrument into the country, when they first -inhabited the island, it seems to have been lost and forgotten; for Idris -is said to have invented something similar; but it is probable he only -made some improvement on the ancient harp, or perhaps his superior skill -in performing on it might have gained him that reputation. From all that -can be gathered from tradition, he was a learned man, an astrologer, and -a bard; and it is likely that the summit of this mountain was chosen by -him, to examine from thence the movements of the heavenly bodies, to -write his inspired verses, or to frame laws for the government and -benefit of his country. - -The walk from this spot to Dolgelley is exceedingly beautiful; and as the -tourist approaches the town before crossing the bridge which is flung -over the river Mawddach, a sign of some importance attracts his attention -upon the right: it runs thus:— - - R. PUGH, - Guide General - To the Waterfalls, Cader Idris, - And all the curious scenery in - The vicinity of Dolgelley. - N.B. Licenced to let saddled horses. - - - -DOLGELLEY, - - -or Dolgelleu, the Dale of the Hazel, is the principal market town in -Merionethshire, and the assizes are held here, alternately with Bala. -The town hall, the most important building, is a neat stone edifice, -erected in the year 1825, and cost £3000. It is built near the banks of -the river Wnion, (pronounced Oonion) and the court room is fitted up with -every necessary accommodation for the officers of justice. In the hall -is a very fine portrait of Sir R. W. Vaughan, Bart., painted by Sir M. A. -Shee, F.R.A. - -Part of an old building, called “Cwrt Plâs yn-y Drêv,” or the Town-hall -Court, is still remaining amongst a range of wretched hovels at the back -of the post office, in which a parliament was held by Owen Glyndwr. The -county jail at the outskirts of the town is of a semi-circular form, -built of stone, and was erected in 1811, at an expense of £5000. - -St. Mary’s Church is a neat limestone edifice, of Grecian architecture, -with a handsome tower, and an expansive nave. In it is an ancient -monument of an armed knight, who is represented in a suit of mail, -helmet, a neck guard, a sword in his hand, and a dog at his feet; a lion -passant gardant is on his shield, upon which is inscribed: “Hic jacet -Mauric Filius Ynyr Vychan.” There is a modern one lately erected to the -memory of Baron Richards. - - [Picture: Parliament House of Owen Glyndwr] - -The town is celebrated for a manufacture of coarse woollen cloths and -flannels, called webs. The old town-hall is used for various purposes; -English church service is performed there every other Sunday; it is also -used as a national school, and children are there taught to sing the -church psalms. It is likewise known as the theatre. - -Those fond of fine scenery should ascend the mountain from the north side -of the vale, to obtain the best view of the town, as it lies sheltered at -the foot of the majestic Cader Idris, which rears its lofty shoulders in -the clouds. - -Clustering woods adorn the opposite range of mountains, as they slope in -irregular masses westward to the ocean. The river beautifully meandering -through the green meadows, the solemn quietude that prevails around, -disturbed only by the sound of the church clock, marking the progress of -the fleeting hours with lengthened tone, which, like the music of another -world, sweeps through the enchanting vale, combine to render this a place -where those not wedded to routs, masquerades, gambling, and -licentiousness, might wish to live and die. - -Dolgelley contains several good inns, of which the most frequented are -the Golden Lion, the Angel, and the Ship. Comfortable lodgings may -likewise be obtained, at a cheap rate, by those who desire to remain in -the neighbourhood for the purpose of making excursions to the Falls, -Kymmer Abbey, and Nannau Park, the fishing stations, Dol y Gamedd on the -Aran, Llyn-tri-Graienyn, Llyn y Gader, Llyn Geirw, Tal y Llyn, &c. - -The tourist should not quit Dolgelley without visiting the Waterfalls, -which, after heavy rains, are very magnificent. As I was still suffering -from the severe sprain, I was accommodated by my friend, who also obliged -me with his company, with a very fine horse to carry me to the falls; -and, bold and sure-footed, he performed his duty nobly, in spite of -crags, cliffs, hills, and hollows. - - - -THE RHAIADR DU - - -is situated in the grounds belonging to Miss Madock, called Dôl -Melynllyn. Here the torrent leaps from a height of sixty feet over -precipitous rocks, and plunges with a violence that seems to shake the -crags and trees around, into a deep pool, from which it proceeds down the -dingle, over black and broken fragments, to the river Mawddach. A -footpath conducts the tourist to the bottom of the falls, from which, -stepping upon some loose stones in the middle of the stream, he will -obtain the best view of the cataract. A walk of about three miles brings -him to the falls of the Mawddach and Pistyll y Cain, returning from -which, he may visit Y Vanner, or Kymmer Abbey, founded in 1198, by -Meredith and Gruffydd, lords of Merioneth, dedicated to St. Mary, and -inhabited by monks of the Cistercian order. It is not now, however, -worthy of the tourist’s attention. But Nannau Park, the seat of Sir -Robert William Vaughan, will afford much pleasure to those who visit it. -The grounds are thickly wooded, and the mansion is supposed to occupy the -highest ground of any residence in Britain. The approach to it is five -miles in length; it stands 702 feet above the level of the sea, and the -park is celebrated for its venison. Previously to the year 1814, there -stood an oak in this park which bore a name terrible to the ears of the -peasantry; it was called - - - -DERWEN CEUBREN YR ELLYLL, - - -which translated, means, “the hollow oak, the haunt of demons.” In this -oak, it is said, Owen Glyndwr immured the body of Howell Sele, the -proprietor of this estate, who, while they were walking together, -treacherously shot an arrow at the breast of Glyndwr, who, however, -having armour beneath his doublet, fortunately received no hurt. The -cause of this treachery is said to have been the indignation expressed by -Owen at his kinsman’s refusal to join his cause to redress his country’s -wrongs. Glyndwr forced his body into the hollow of this oak, most likely -after having slain him, where, forty years after this event, a skeleton -was discovered. The chieftain, after laying waste the mansion and domain -of Sele, hastened to join his friends. Sir W. Scott has written a very -beautiful poem upon this legend, which will be found in the fifth note to -his sixth canto of Marmion, and is called the “spirit’s blasted tree.” -In 1813, this monarch of the wood fell to the ground. - -The country from Dolgelley to the mouth of the river is well worth a -journey of three hundred miles to visit, even though there were no other -objects worthy of notice in North Wales, and will amply compensate the -most eager researcher after the sublime and beautiful. - -At a turn of the coach road from a place called Ty-gwyn, a splendid view -of Cader Idris is obtained, particularly in the evening, when the mists -arise from the numerous lakes in the vicinity, like volumes of smoke from -a domain of fire, curling in fantastic forms around the mountain’s waist, -leaving its summit stern and clear in an unclouded sky—like a proud giant -surveying with disdain the dwarfish host of which he is the leader. - -Another noble view attracts attention, at a place called Glan -Mawddach—the broad arm of the sea, stretching for miles between the -rugged mountains, which, shrouded in veils of silvery mist, fling their -dark shadows into the depths of the water. Arriving at - - - -BARMOUTH, - - -the coach stopped at the Corsygedol Arms; but I proceeded to the -Commercial Inn, where there is very good accommodation, and a good -look-out seaward. A warm bath of sea water refreshed me; and by the star -light I strolled upon the sands, which are very hard and pleasant to walk -upon, while my repast was preparing at the inn. The night was calm and -serene, and my mind naturally adapted itself to the surrounding scene. -“The brave o’erhanging firmament—the majestical roof fretted with golden -fire,” appeared to me far from being “a foul and pestilent congregation -of vapours.” My soul took wing, and bounded from star to star, leaping -the realms of space, and plunging into infinity, till wearied with its -immeasurable flight, it resought its earthly tenement, and my body, which -it left immoveable, as if transformed to marble, resumed its functions. -The low moan of the ocean swam on my ear, like heavenly music. A light -breeze brought with it delicious freshness; and, as I looked towards the -land, all seemed as quiet as the abode of peace. The lights from the -houses had a pleasing effect, as they streamed through the windows, row -above row, under and upon the side of the overhanging cliffs. - -I returned to “mine inn,” and my meal being despatched, retired to bed. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - -Description of Barmouth.—Sketch of the Town.—The Estuary.—Friar’s -Island,—Dinas Gortin.—Earl of Richmond.—Anecdote of the Men of Ardudwy, -and the Men of Denbighshire.—Corsygedol Hall.—A Pic-nic Party.—Llyn Cwm -Bychan.—Carreg y Saeth.—Bwlch Tyddiad.—A Mountain Ride and a Regretful -Farewell. - - “The mountayne men live longer many a year - Then those in vale, in plaine, or marrish soyle; - A lustie hart, a cleene complexion cleere, - They have on hill that for hard living toyle; - With ewe and lambe, with goats and kinds they play, - In greatest toyles to rub out wearie day; - And when to house and home good fellowes draw, - The lads can laugh at turning of a strawe.” - - CHURCHYARD. - -BARMOUTH, or Aber-Maw, derives its name from being situated at the -embouchure of the river Maw or Mawddach, which at the entrance is -obstructed by a bar. The old town, viewed from the sea, resembles a -fortress of some strength, hanging immediately over the sands. In most -cases a lofty situation is an advantage, but here it is the reverse; for -so steep is the side of the cliff on which it stands, that the -inhabitants of the upper regions are completely smoke-dried from the -chimneys of all the dwellings beneath. - -The new town stands at the base of the rock, and but for some mounds of -sand, that appear likely to grow into mountains by the influence of the -winds and waves, would inevitably be washed away by the spring tides. -Some of the fishermen’s habitations on the beach are at times buried in -the drifting sands; and, after a strong wind from the seaward, the -inhabitants generally labour hard to clear the obstruction from their -doors. - -Barmouth had few visitors during my stay, and from the report of those I -met with, is greatly decreasing in popularity, which says but little in -favour of the lovers of fine scenery. When the tide is at full, the -panorama around the estuary cannot be surpassed in beauty. The majestic -river winds amongst rocks, clad with purple heather, or projecting in -barren grandeur, that lift their jagged summits tier over tier, and peak -overtopping peak, while still tremendous, towering over all, the lofty -Idris looms in the back ground. Green hills and woody promontories, -forests that stretch into the dark recesses of the mountains, villas and -copsewood glens, give an endless variety to the romantic scene. - -The town contains about 2000 inhabitants, and there is a manufactory of -flannels and woollen stockings. - -At noon, as I was basking upon the sands, or Friar’s Island, which is -situated at the mouth of the river, I had the pleasure to see my new -acquaintance and friend gallop into the town, and old Charon having -ferried me from the island to the main land once more, I hastened to -welcome him, as fast as my damaged limb would suffer me. He proposed -driving me to Corsygedol Hall, the seat of the Hon. E. M. L. Mostyn; -which being agreed to, I ordered dinner to be ready at our return, and we -started. The drive upon the Harlech road is bleak; upon the right, the -hills are barren; and seaward, beneath the road, is an extensive flat, -consisting chiefly of bog land and far from interesting. About a mile -and a half from the town stands the Church of Llan Aber, upon the extreme -verge of a cliff which overlooks the ocean. The Carnarvonshire mountains -have a fine effect stretching into the sea; of which the Rivals, with -their lofty peaks, are noble objects in the distance. Following the -chain, the eye rests for a moment upon Carn Bodean, and in the flat -between it and Carn Madryn is the town of Pwllheli. The chain is resumed -at Rhiw mountain, and terminates at Aberdaron point, three leagues from -which is Bardsey Island, a conspicuous and interesting object; for there -dwelt the bards of old, amongst whom were numbered the fathers of -science, the national interpreters, musicians, and legislators, priests, -and princes of Cambria. With their oratory they soothed the savage -ignorance of mankind into civilization and knowledge, and polished their -minds with the powerful aid of music and poetry. After the dreadful -slaughter of the monks of Bangor, those who survived took shelter upon -this island. A few ruined walls alone remain of the ancient abbey; and -the inhabitants, who do not exceed one hundred persons, support -themselves chiefly by fishing. - -About three miles from Barmouth, upon the summit of the mountain called -Dinas Gortin, are the remains of a military encampment, and near to the -town there stood a tower, where it is said the Earl of Richmond used to -conceal himself, when he visited his secret allies in this part of the -country. - -Near the military station, are the tombs of the celebrated men of -Ardudwy; who, in imitation of the Roman robbers, made an incursion into -Denbighshire, and overcoming the men, forcibly tore the women from their -families, and returned in triumph with them to their own country. - -But the men of Denbighshire, rallying, pursued the spoilers, and -overtaking them in the pass of Drws Ardudwy, routed them with great -slaughter. But the infatuated women had by this time conceived so -extraordinary a passion for their violators, that rather than survive -their loss, or perhaps more probably, to escape the fury of their former -husbands, they drowned themselves in a lake, which is called the Llyn y -Morwynion, or Pool of the Maidens. - -About two miles further, a road up a steep ascent conducted us to a fine -avenue of trees, through which we passed, and at the termination of it -came to a handsome gateway called Porth Mawr, which admitted us into the -mansion of Corsygedol, which has nothing in it to interest the tourist. -The interior of the building is incommodious and inelegant. The -drawing-room contains a few wretched portraits and high-backed chairs; -and the rest of the apartments are meanly furnished. - -We returned to Barmouth by the sea shore, and after a most delightful -drive upon Neptune’s boundaries, arrived at the inn, where the evening -was passed in conviviality, tempered with prudence, and sweetened by -social and interesting conversation. As I had determined upon proceeding -to Harlech the following day, my companion was resolved to make the -journey as agreeable as possible, and requesting me to forward my -knapsack, &c., by the coach, informed me that he would be ready to -accompany me in the morning. Requesting him, therefore, to be early at -breakfast, we parted for the night. - -After despatching a hasty meal next morning, the word was given “to horse -and away.” My old favourite who bore me so gallantly to the black -cataract, was again resigned to my care, and I to his, gentle as a lamb, -proud as a war horse, and agile as an antelope. I felt like an Arab, on -his steed, and I thought I could defy the winds to overtake me. We -proceeded once more to Corsygedol Hall, which was the appointed spot of -rendezvous for a pic-nic party. Here I had the happiness of meeting some -of the choicest flowers of the Welsh Highlands. Youth, beauty, freedom, -and innocence, beamed from the laughing eyes and unsullied cheeks of our -fair companions. The “how d’ye do’s?” “glad to see you,” “fine morning,” -&c., &c., being ended, we moved forward in a formidable cavalcade. -Mirth, wit, and pleasure played on the lips and sparkled in the eyes of -the whole party; and the animals that bore us seemed to partake of the -general feeling, by pricking up their glossy ears, and bounding over the -rugged road with more spirit than prudence. Much mirth was occasioned by -the opening of gates and crossing of brooks. At length the party plunged -into a beautiful wood. I paused upon an eminence to mark the effect as -they descended; it was picturesque in the extreme, as at intervals, -through the openings, I caught a partial glimpse of the troop, pursuing -their cheerful way down the steep path. Pleased with the sight, I passed -the party at a gallop, and arriving at the foot of the hill, remained -upon a bridge, close by the woodman’s cottage, which crosses a mountain -stream, watching their approach. - -It was delightful to see them advancing one by one through the thick -foliage which hung on either side of the path, and arching over their -heads. On arriving at the foot of the descent, the party drew up, and, -had an artist been among us, I am confident he would have produced a -picture which, even on the lifeless canvass, would have delighted the -connoisseurs of Somerset House. - -The variety of costume, the colour of the horses, the general sensation -of delight which lighted up the features of the gay group; the -picturesque cottage and bridge, the broad rushing stream, the waving -woods, with now and then a glimpse of the sterile mountains, peeping -above the beautiful fertility, formed a landscape which Salvator Rosa -himself would have been delighted to delineate. - - [Picture: View from Carreg y Saeth] - -Penetrating through a woody maze, a glen upon our right, and huge wild -masses of rock towering above our heads, we passed Cravnant, a house -situated in the deep shade of the lonely wood. The rocks now assumed a -wild and threatening aspect upon our left, as we emerged into a more open -track, and entered upon the domain of Dolwreiddiog, a little beyond which -commences perhaps the wildest scenery in North Wales. Descending by a -rocky path, we came to - - - -LLYN Y CWM BYCHAN, - - -or, the lake of the little hollow, on the opposite margin of which, the -wild and dismal Carreg-y-Saeth, the rock of the arrow, rears its black -head in fearful grandeur. Cwm Bychan, is a grassy dell, surrounded on -all sides by the most frightful sterility; which, while we gazed with -wonder on the sublimity of the scene, made us shudder at the utter -desolation it presented. A poor cottage stands at the further end of the -valley, from which, having obtained a plentiful supply of milk, we -dismounted, and, fastening our steeds to the gates, we seated ourselves -under the shade of two trees, upon the inviting grass, which, like the -smiles of the world, proved but too treacherous; many a scream and laugh -announcing that the boggy soil had paid no respect to the garments of -either sex. Stones were therefore procured, and, having ranged them in a -magic circle, the whole party seated themselves to partake of the good -cheer, which a sturdy Welshman had borne upon his shoulders, and who now -advanced into the middle of the ring. Knives and forks began to play -with astonishing celerity. Fowls, ham, tongue, &c., vanished as if by -enchantment, and mirth and good humour added zest to the repast. - -Our lunch being concluded, we again mounted our horses, and commenced an -ascent up a dank, cheerless hollow, called Bwlch Tyddiad. Nothing can -exceed the wildness of the scenery by which we were surrounded. Huge -masses of rock, riven by the thunderbolt, or loosened by the frost, lay -scattered in every direction, while towering upon either side, the -herbless mountains frowned, barren, black, grey, and terrible. - -Our horses, accustomed, I presume, to such excursions, picked their way -with the greatest care and safety, and my “gallant brown” cleared every -impediment, as if he had been foaled amongst the Alps, and loved them -better than the verdant plain. Drawing nearer to the top of the cliff, -the shepherds had made a stair-like path of flat stones, along which our -Cavalcade proceeded with caution; when suddenly we halted upon hearing -the distant halloos of travellers ascending the opposite side of the -mountain, and presently three persons, one of whom was leading a wearied -animal by the bridle, became distinctly visible. A shout of recognition -from our party roused all the echoes of the surrounding hills. The -figures, as they became more distinct, seemed magically transported with -myself into the heart of the Sierra Morena, where Cardenio, Don Quixote, -and Sancho Panza, appeared to me in their proper persons; for never was -description better realized than in the figures that now presented -themselves. The first was a handsome, well formed man, with light brown -hair, which hung in plentiful thickness upon his shoulders; his untrimmed -beard, joined by overhanging mustachios, and the two being united to the -upper growth by a pair of whiskers, the luxuriance of which showed they -were permitted to grow in uninterrupted freedom. His throat was bare, -and his dress negligent. The second figure that attracted my attention, -was a very tall and extremely thin young man, with a serious cast of -features that would have done honour to the knight of the woful -countenance. In his hand he led a jaded hack, which in the ascent seemed -to have yielded up three parts of its existence. Here then was the -Rosinante of Cervantes in a breathing form; while, by his side, a short -good-humoured little man, with a large portmanteau buckled on his back, -walked like a faithful squire, and made an admirable substitute for the -immortal Sancho; and, as he turned his eyes from precipice to glen, it -required no great stretch of imagination to think they were wandering in -search of his beloved Dapple. We met upon a patch of green moss; and -here our hamper was again unpacked, to cheer the hearts of these -toil-worn travellers. - -By their advice we ascended to the summit of the mountain, the view from -which was grand and extensive. To the eastward, a vast country lies -beneath, bounded by Cader Idris, the two Arrenigs, and a long range of -mountains. Immediately under the lofty eminence upon which we rested, -was a small round lake and the pass Ardudwy, which exceeds even the -celebrated Llanberis in rugged grandeur. The way by which our new -companions ascended was both laborious and dangerous; but they would not -have sacrificed the prospect now presented to them on any account. North -and south the eye glances over the summits of wild mountains, and to the -west the Carnarvonshire chain, cut in two, as it were, by a high -mountain, immediately before us, forms the shore of a noble sheet of -water, resembling a spacious lake, where the sea stretches its arm into -the Vale of Maentwrog, out of Cardigan Bay. The declining sun gave us -warning that it was time to quit these wilds, and make the best of our -way to the foot of the mountain. - -The return is extremely hazardous on horseback. The ladies of the party -therefore, resigning their steeds to the conduct of some mountaineers, -and the gentlemen leading their horses by the bridle, commenced the -descent. But as I could not from lameness advantage myself by like -caution, and feeling confident in the tact, strength, and docility of my -favourite, I led the way, without experiencing the slightest symptom of -uneasiness. - -When we had proceeded about half way down, a circumstance occurred that -occasioned some unpleasantness. A horse had broken loose from one of the -leaders, and at full speed came galloping down the steep and rugged -descent. The animal conducted by the tall, thin gentlemen before -described, started as his fellow quadruped rushed by him, and, freeing -himself from control, dashed after him at an alarming pace, leaving his -late master, with eyes starting out of their sockets, and mouth wide open -with affright, his arms spread out, and his whole frame in convulsions of -terror, upon the top of a large stone, ludicrously bewildered. My steed, -evincing the truth of the proverb, “evil communications,” &c., for a -moment lost his presence of mind, and despising my efforts to restrain -him, bounded over sundry perilous rocky fragments in desperate pursuit. -However, by divers forcible arguments, I at length succeeded in -convincing him of his error, and he returned to his duty. - -The two runaways were soon out of sight, and as we concluded they had -broken their necks, we moved rather solemnly to the bottom of the hollow, -where our fears were dissipated, by finding them quietly browsing in the -green meadows, where we had before seated ourselves at pic-nic. All here -remounted; the sun’s rays still lingering upon the heights of -Carreg-y-Saeth, but the pool below looked black and cheerless. As we -proceeded, the beautiful calm light of evening, the cool and refreshing -air, “the shard borne beetle, with his drowsy hum,” the forest flies and -midges dancing in the clear ether, the murmuring of mountain streams, and -the joyous notes of our little party, uniting with the sharp tones of our -horses’ shoes, clinking against the rocky fragments, formed a combination -of pleasing sounds and images in this romantic solitude, which I shall -ever remember with feelings of interest and delight. After riding about -three miles, surrounded by every charm that could make the time pass -pleasantly, we arrived at the place of parting. A road branching to the -right led directly to Harlech, a distance of about two miles; and here, -with a feeling of regret, I hardly ever before experienced, I took leave -of my kind conductor, and his agreeable friends, a man being appointed to -walk with me as far as Harlech, for the purpose of taking back his -master’s horse. - -Slowly and sadly I pursued my solitary ride, nor did I once address my -attendant, until I arrived at the inn, where, dismounting, I committed to -his charge my gallant supporter throughout the day. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - -Harlech.—The Inn.—The Castle.—Anecdote of Davydd ab Ivan ab Einion.—Road -to Maentwrog.—View.—A Persevering Cobbler.—The Oakeley Arms.—Angling -Stations.—Road to Tremadoc.—Tan y Bwlch.—Port Madoc Breakwater and -Mountain Scenery described.—Tremadoc.—Tan yr Allt.—Pont Aber Glas -Lyn.—Beddgelert.—The Inn. - - “Rise from thy haunt, dread genius of the clime, - Rise, magic spirit of forgotten time! - ’Tis thine to burst the mantling clouds of age, - And fling new radiance on Tradition’s page: - See at thy call from Fable’s varied store, - In shadowy train the mingled visions pour; - Here the wild Briton ’mid his wilder reign, - Spurns the proud yoke and scorns the oppressor’s chain, - Here wizard Merlin, where the mighty fell, - Waves the dark wand and chants the thrilling spell.” - - PRIZE POEM, T. S. S. - - - -HARLECH. - - -THE Blue Lion Inn, built by Sir R. W. Vaughan, for the accommodation of -travellers and tourists, is most delightfully situated. A carriage road -from the north leads round to the front, which faces the sea; and forming -a semicircle, permits the vehicles to drive, through a gate on the south -end of the house, again into the high road. Great taste is displayed in -the erection of this pleasant building; the parapet wall, with its -circular turrets, in which seats are placed for the accommodation of -visitors, and the terrace with its neat shrubberies. I must also -acknowledge, that the kind attention of the landlord and his servants -deserves the highest commendation. - -The view from the terrace is indescribably beautiful. The sea lies -stretched beneath; the majestic ruins of Harlech Castle stand upon a -rocky base, frowning in solitary grandeur upon the right; and beyond, the -long line of Carnarvonshire hills projects, like Cambria’s lance, -forbidding the waves to make further inroads upon her territories. - -Pwllheli and Port Madoc are distinctly visible from this spot; and the -lovers of fine prospects may remain at the Blue Lion for a week, without -wishing to stray further than the terrace in search of the sublime and -beautiful. The continual variety of light and shadow, with which the -mountains are alternately robed, the freshness of the air, and the solemn -majesty of the ruined fortress, form altogether a volume for the mind to -peruse with intense and unwearied interest. - - - -HARLECH CASTLE. - - - [Picture: Harlech Castle] - -The present castle was built by Edward the First in 1283, upon the ruins -of one erected by Maelgwn Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, in 530. It was -seized by the Welsh hero, Owen Glyndwr, during his struggle for freedom -against Henry the Fourth, and was retaken, about four years afterwards, -by an army sent by that monarch into Wales. After the defeat of Henry -the Sixth at Northampton, this castle afforded a retreat for his queen; -but being hotly pursued by the Lord Stanley, she was compelled to fly -from hence with great precipitation, leaving her jewels and other -valuables behind her. - -In 1468, this place was in possession of Davydd ab Ivan ab Einion, a man -of singular strength and beauty, and of unconquerable bravery. Being a -firm friend to the Lancastrian line, the Earl William of Pembroke was -despatched to reduce the fortress; and after encountering incredible -difficulties, marching through the very heart of the British Alps, he at -length invested the castle, and committed the management of the siege to -his brother Sir Richard Herbert, a man equal in size and prowess to the -British commandant. The reply of the Welshman, when called upon to -surrender, deserves to be handed down as a specimen of bravery and -loyalty. He had never acknowledged the sovereignty of Edward; and for -nine years had defied his threats. His answer was in keeping with the -line of conduct he had adopted: “Tell your leader,” said he to the -messenger, “that some years ago I held a castle in France against its -besiegers so long, that all the old women in Wales talked of me: tell -your commander, that I intend to defend this Welsh castle now, until all -the old women in France shall hear of it.” - -Famine, however, at last subdued him; but he yielded only upon honourable -terms, Sir Richard pledging himself for his safety. The king at first -refused to subscribe to the conditions; but Sir Richard, with a spirit -that cannot be sufficiently applauded, instantly informed his majesty -that he must take his own life first; for if he lived he would certainly -replace the Welsh chieftain in his strong hold again. The king was too -well acquainted with the value of Sir Richard’s services and scrupulous -honour, to persist in his unjust intentions. He, therefore, ratified the -conditions, and pardoned the chief. But the brave Englishman was soon -after recalled from his military command. - -In the civil wars of Charles I. Harlech Castle was the last that held out -for the king, under the command of William Owain, who surrendered on the -9th of March, 1647. - -Upon the side which faces the sea, the castle must have been impregnable; -the walls are scarcely distinguishable from the rocky base, the whole -being a continued surface of dark grey masonry; and the north and south -sides appear nearly as inaccessible. The gateway upon the eastward side -is situated between two immense rounders, resembling those of Conway and -Carnarvon. The form of the castle is a square, each side measuring -seventy yards, and at each corner is a round tower; but the turrets that -were once attached to them the unsparing hand of Time has destroyed. -Before the entrance is a deep fosse, cut in the solid rock; across which -a drawbridge was constructed for security and convenience. - -The principal apartments are on the eastward, or entrance, side of the -inner court. The banqueting hall is opposite; the windows of which look -out upon the green surface of the sea; and, on the right of the court, -there formerly stood a small chapel; the ruins of which are still -visible, the pointed windows remaining entire. It is impossible to -conceive a finer view than is obtained from the towers of Harlech Castle. -With a clear atmosphere, the monarch of the Welsh mountains may be -distinctly seen, towering above his subject hills. The promontories of -Lleyn, and Cricaeth Castle, are likewise objects of considerable -interest; the latter forming a head to a long neck of land that juts into -the sea from the Carnarvonshire coast, backed by a chain of noble -mountains. This castle likewise owes its foundation to Edward I. - -Harlech is one of those places the traveller leaves with regret, and a -feeling that he can never see any so beautiful again; and from this place -to the village of Maentwrog, the road increases in beauty every mile. - -The Bay of Cardigan, expanding to the ocean, lies beneath, on the left; -upon the right, wild rocks and woody hills alternately diversify the -prospect, and, approaching the northern extremity of the bay, the Traeth -Mawr and Traeth Bâch, two arms of the sea (the former running up to Port -Madoc, and the latter into the Vale of Maentwrog), are noble objects. - -The Traeth Bâch, bounded by mountains upon either side, prepares the -tourist for the heavenly quietude which reigns eternally in the bosom of -this earthly paradise; and about two miles from the village, near a farm -house called Cemlyn, one of the most beautiful views of the valley lies -stretched before him. A woody dingle opens on the right, down which the -Velin Rhyd rushes impetuously, mingling its bright waters with the -smoothly meandering Dwyryd, which commingling, flow gracefully into -Cardigan Bay. - - [Picture: The Vale of Maentwrog] - -In front, and upon the right of the vale, lies the little picturesque -village of Maentwrog, reposing at the foot of a lofty mountain. Fine -green meadow lands enrich the centre of the valley, through which the -river, like a silver serpent, “drags its slow length along.” Upon the -opposite side is seen the mansion of Tan y Bwlch, backed by a mountain -forest, and ornamented by a noble terrace in front, with pleasure grounds -and walks, which the eye loves to rest upon. - -The road to Festiniog, at the extreme point of the landscape, winds up -the enclosing hills that fill up the back ground. To be appreciated, the -view must be seen: the most glowing description would fall incalculably -short of the reality. - -At this spot I was accosted by a very inquisitive personage. - -“Fine evening, sir.” - -“Yes.” - -“Walking far to-day, sir?” - -“Yes.” - -“A great many gentlemen come from London to see this valley, sir.” - -“I suppose so,” (trying to shake him off, but it would not do.) - -“You come from London, I think, sir.” - -“Why do you think so?” - -“Only because a great many London people come this way, sir.” - -“But do not many other travellers come this road, who are not Londoners?” - -“Oh, yes, sir! but I took you for a Londoner by the cut of your coat. -You’ve come a long way to-day, sir?” - -“I have, but how should you know that?” - -“By the condition of your boots, sir.” - -This was a hit I did not anticipate; for, truth to say I was nearly -bootless, at least the _soles_ had nearly left their _bodies_, upper -leathers I mean, and stood mortally in need of regeneration; and, as I -had not provided myself with a second pair, thinking they would prove -cumbersome in my knapsack, his remark was felt from toe to heel. - -“You’ll want these repaired, I dare say, sir, while you remain at the -Oakeley Arms—comfortable inn—capital beds, sir.” - -“Why I think I shall, my friend; perhaps you can recommend me to a -cobbler, in the village yonder,” (pointing to Maentwrog.) - -“I am a boot maker, sir, in the village, and have cobbled, as you are -pleased to call it, the soles of all strangers in need, for the last -twenty years. My father performed that office before me; and I may say -my all (awl) of life depends upon the gentlemen who visit our beautiful -valley.” - -“You are not employed then by the inhabitants of your native village?” - -“I _was_, sir; but a new comer, who wrote over his door ‘leather cutter,’ -cut me out; for I never found business enough to set up a shop, and so, -sir, I am obliged to watch for customers, to keep up my trade. Those -boots of yours, sir, will give me dinners for half the week, if you will -only let me give them welts, soles, and heel-taps. You’ve got a fine -foot, sir.” - -This piece of gross flattery did not prevent my telling him to follow me -to the inn, and receive the reward of his perseverance and industry. - - - -THE OAKELEY ARMS. TAN Y BWLCH. - - -I was tired, and gladly resigned my dilapidated boots to the care of my -_soles’_ physician; who, with a most respectful bow, promised to let me -have them by eight o’clock on the following morning. - -Oh the comforts of a clean room, clean sheets, and a good bed! These I -experienced at the Oakeley Arms; and I arose refreshed, and eager to -commence my walk; but I was doomed to disappointment, for on drawing up -the blind of my window, a dark and dismal morning presented itself, the -rain falling in torrents, and the lovely valley transformed into a gloomy -gorge of rolling clouds. What’s to be done? thought I; jump into bed -again, answered my careful spirit. I obeyed the suggestion, and slept -another hour, when I again awoke, and on inspection found the day still -melancholy and tearful. - -I descended to the breakfast room, and by the time I had finished that -necessary meal the sun shone out gloriously. Having discharged my bill, -and paid the loquacious cobbler for repairing my boots, I proceeded to -view the grounds of Tan y Bwlch, the seat of Mrs. Oakeley. The name -signifies “Below the Pass;” it is situated on the side of a hill which -overlooks the vale. - -From the terrace of this mansion you command one of the most romantic -views in Wales. Harlech Castle is visible upon the right; the -Merionethshire mountains tower in the distance, and the entire valley, -from Festiniog to Traeth Bychan, watered by the river Dwyryd, is -interesting beyond description. Lord Lyttleton tells us, in his -observations upon this valley, that an honest Welsh farmer, who died -there at 105 years of age, had by his first wife thirty children, ten by -his second, and four by his third. His eldest son was eighty-one years -older than his youngest, and 800 persons, descended from his body, -attended his funeral. - -I should be doing injustice to the worthy landlord of the Maentwrog Inn, -whose house I used upon my second visit to this delightful valley, did I -not speak in praise of his attention to the comforts of all travellers. -Good beds, civil waiters, excellent fare, and cheap charges, render this -one of the very best inns in Wales. And hear, ye lingering tourists! you -may have bed and board for the inconsiderable sum of one guinea per week, -which I think a very considerable temptation to remain at it a month, for -there is sufficient in the neighbourhood to interest the most phlegmatic -of Adam’s progeny. From hence may be visited the following interesting -places. The village of Festiniog, three miles, where there are two good -inns, the Pengwern Arms, and the Newborough Arms, where post horses and -cars are always in readiness; there is also a good boarding-house kept by -Miss Owen. The Falls of Cynvael, two and a half; the slate quarries, -five and a half; the cataracts of the Rhaiadr Du and Ravenfall, two -miles; Llyn Llyanyrch, three and a half, where the trout are excellent; -Cwmorddin Pool, lies to the northward, about four and a half miles, to -which the tourist may be conducted by the railroad. There is a house at -each end of the lake where the angler will find accommodation from the -hospitable owners for a trifling remuneration. Llyn Mannod contains very -large trout, and is six miles from Maentwrog, and Llyn Morwynion is about -the same distance. - - [Picture: The Raven Fall, near Maentwrog] - -I proceeded along the lower road by the north side of the salts, as the -inhabitants of the valley call the arm of the sea, which here has the -appearance of a lake begirt with mountains, craggy cliffs, and shadowing -woods. Here I bade adieu to the delightful valley of Festiniog, and -after walking about four miles along a pleasant road, a noble sheet of -water met my eyes, which appeared to be hemmed in by inaccessible -mountains, differing in form from those I had left behind, being more -conical, and some shooting upwards like pyramids into the clouds. - -As I proceeded I discovered it to be the Traeth Mawr, which, as the sea -is hidden from us by a breakwater, has the appearance of a broad lake. - -Upon this breakwater, which extends across the bay, is a railroad which -conveys slates from the quarries at Festiniog to Port Madoc, where it is -calculated ten thousand tons are shipped annually. Port Madoc receives -its name from the late William Alexander Maddocks, Esq., of Tan-yr-allt, -as does the town of Tremadoc. - -The extraordinary efforts of this enterprising man caused him to be -looked up to as the Prince of the soil. He redeemed, by constructing an -embankment of nearly one mile in length from north to south, across the -Traeth Mawr, at the eastern extremity of Cardigan Bay, a tract of more -than 2,700 acres of land. This enterprise was completed in 1811, and -cost upwards of £100,000; so that, with the lands previously recovered, -no less than 7000 acres have been regained, 6000 of which are cultivated. - -The view from the breakwater is perhaps the finest in North Wales for -distant mountain scenery. When the tourist has reached the centre of it, -let him turn his back upon the sea, and upon his right he will perceive a -hill, called Plâs Newydd, from which a range of Alpine scenery stretches -up to the monarch of Snowdonia, who towers pre-eminent in the distance. -Upon his left another range, commencing with a hill called Moel y Gêst, -leads up to the same grand object, and the extraordinary variety -displayed in the formation of these wonderful masses with the varying -lights and shadows that adorn them with sunny crowns or misty mantles, -produces a sublimity of effect I never before experienced. A bridge -joins the breakwater to the quay at Port Madoc, under which the tide -rushes with great impetuosity, covering a vast extent of ground at the -flood, which is left nearly dry at the ebb. Proceeding along the road, -in a short time the tourist obtains a peep at the little town of -Tremadoc; but before reaching it he perceives the church, an elegant -building, with a tower and lofty spire, which forms a principal object in -the landscape. The archway, under which the church is approached, is a -beautiful specimen of workmanship, and does equal credit to the taste of -the founder and execution of the builder. Divine service is read here in -the English language every Sunday, which is a great accommodation to the -English families, residing in the neighbourhood, as there is no other -church within twenty miles where it is so performed. - - - -TREMADOC, - - -or the town of Madoc, is built quadrangularly, and in the centre of the -square is a column with a pedestal, round which are twelve steps. On the -eastern side is a commodious market house, above which are the assembly -rooms. A market is held here on Fridays, and the Barmouth and Carnarvon -coach passes through three times a-week. - -Having refreshed myself with a luncheon of cold meat and a salad, I -trudged off, in spite of wind and weather, which threatened a speedy -commencement of hostilities. Large masses of vapoury clouds were driving -over head; the swallows skimmed the surface of the river, and brushed the -standing corn with their swift wings, as they flew along in the pursuit -of their prey; and the wind blew loud and shrilly, as in the month of -November. At a short distance from the town, upon the Beddgelert road, -is a lofty hill, the base of which is planted with fir trees, through -which a path winds up to the mansion of Tan-yr-Allt, the late beautiful -residence of Mr. Maddocks. I had not proceeded far when I was compelled -to seek shelter in a hollow, of which there are many at the feet of the -enormous precipices which overhang the road. - -The transient storm having passed away, and sunshine once more lighting -up the valley, I again pushed forward. The Merionethshire mountains upon -the right, decked in their countless hues of rock and heather, over which -the departing storm swept with its rolling clouds, in dark magnificence, -formed a noble subject for the artist’s pencil. The road is elevated -above the meadows which enrich the centre of the vale; and the river, -which flows through them, having risen above its banks, and spread itself -over a considerable tract of country, resembled an extensive lake. - -About half way between Tremadoc and Beddgelert, is a small dingle upon -the left of the road, with a neat lodge at the entrance, and a path -leading up to the shrubbery, beneath which a mountain stream flows -rapidly, and empties itself into the Dwyryd. As I proceeded, numerous -falls dashed down the mountains, and plunging into hollows underneath the -road, emerged again upon the other side, I was several times forced to -take shelter from the heavy showers under fallen blocks of rock; and -once, as the storm abated, and I looked anxiously out to see if it was -clear enough to pursue my journey, a glorious rainbow stretched across -the valley, its points resting upon the mountains on either side. I now -proceeded at a rapid pace, and the river became more deep and narrow, and -the circling eddies, as they floated down the stream, announced that I -was approaching the fall of a great body of water when suddenly—whizz, -whirr, clash, splash, dash, astounding and astonishing— - - - -ABER GLAS LYN - - -with all its world of horrors, burst at once upon the view. I felt a -tremulous sensation within, me; a contraction of the muscles of my -throat; an hysterical sob and a desire to weep. - - “White foaming, thundering, falls the boiling flood; - Rocks clash, and echo mocks the horrid din, - While man appalled, stands breathless, in amaze, - And, filled with awe, exalts his thoughts to Him, - Who was, who is, and aye must be supreme!” - -Just above the bridge is a semi-circular rock, which forms a salmon leap, -over which the salmon, at spawning time, first lodge themselves at the -height of five or six yards. Proceeding through the pass, at every step -new wonders met the eye. The late heavy rains had swollen the mountain -waterfalls, and caused a terrific torrent to roar and struggle through a -narrow channel; for the mountains, forming this southern end of the vale, -approach so near to each other, that they only afford a contracted flow -for the river, and a narrow road, while their rocky sides rise so -perpendicularly, that their summits are scarcely farther distant from -each other than their foundations. The rushing river was a pure sheet of -white; furious, uncontrollable; nothing but the immense blocks riven from -the mountain’s craggy sides could withstand its dreadful impetuosity. A -few stunted fir and larch trees at the commencement of the pass were seen -starting from the dark clefts upon either side, which threw a deeper -shade upon this awful valley. - - [Picture: Pont Aber Glaslyn] - -Cradock calls this pass “the noblest specimen of the _finely horrid_ the -eye can possibly behold. The poet,” he continues, “has not described, -nor the painter pictured so gloomy a retreat. ’Tis the last approach to -the mansion of Pluto, through the regions of Despair.” I could have -stopped for hours to admire this splendid example of the sublimity of -Nature, but time pressed, so I pushed on to Beddgelert which is not more -than a mile and a half from the bridge. A solitary mountain ash which -grows about half way up the pass, is the sole bright thing in this abode -of terror, and looks like Beauty in desolation. Emerging from the pass -there is a stone which is called the chair of Rhys Gôch o’r Eryri; a -famous mountain bard who lived in the time of Owen Glyndwr. He resided -at the entrance into the Traeth Mawr Sands, from whence he used to walk, -and sitting upon this stone compose his poems. He died in 1420, at the -advanced age of 120 years; he was a gentleman of property, and was buried -in the ancient priory at - - - -BEDDGELERT. - - -Some are of opinion that this word should be written Celert, or Cilert, -Bedd-Cilert, or Cilert’s Grave; supposing that a monk or saint of that -name was buried here. Another celebrated bard was entombed at this -place, named Davydd Nanmor, who died about the year 1460. - -The Goat is an excellent inn, and every attention the traveller can -desire is paid with the greatest celerity. Twenty post horses are kept -at this inn for travellers, and eight or ten ponies for the accommodation -of those visitors who wish to ascend Snowdon with ease and safety. - -At nine o’clock, I strolled from the inn to the bridge. It was a lovely -evening; there was no moon, but the clear sky displayed its burning host -in beautiful array. No breath of air disturbed the silent slumbers of -the peaceful woods. The lull of rippling waters alone struck upon the -ear, yielding a solemn tone like the deep swell of the organ, breaking -upon the deepest solitude. - -In such a situation how indescribable is the feeling which takes -possession of us! What language can express, what tongue can utter it! -My very breathing seemed to disturb the excessive sweetness of nature’s -melody. - -In a field near the church yard are two grey stones overhung with bushes, -pointing out the grave of “Gelert,” Llewelyn’s hound. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - -Departure from Beddgelert.—Vortigern’s Hill.—Snowdon.—Llyn -Gwynant.—Gwrydd.—Public Houses.—Lake Fishing.—Pass of Llanberis.—The -Lakes.—The Castle of Dolbadarn.—View of the Lakes.—The Church of -Llanberis.—Story of little John Closs.—Capel Curig.—Moel Siabod.—Castle -of Dolwyddelan.—Falls of Benglog.—Llyn Ogwen.—Llyn Idwal.—Route to -Llanrwst.—Falls of Rhaiadr y Wennol.—Bettws y Coed.—The -Church.—Monuments.—Pont y Pair. - - “Oh, who hath stood on Snowdon’s side, - And glanced o’er Mona’s virgin pride; - And gazed on fatal Moel y don, - But thought of those once there undone? - When Saxons and their foreign band, - Were crushed by the sons of the mountain land.” - - T. J. LLEWELYN PRICHARD. - -ON the following morning I quitted the inn, where every attention was -shown that a traveller could desire, and proceeded over the Ivy bridge, -through which the Gwynant flowed, deep and smooth as glass, without an -obstruction to ruffle its clear waters, that glided along, kissing its -verdant banks, like the stream of a happy life. Quietude reigned in this -region uninterrupted. About half a mile from Beddgelert, a rocky -eminence projects into the road, called Vortigern’s Hill, or Dinas Emrys, -a magician, who was sent for to this place by Vortigern, when he found -himself hated by his subjects, and fled from their just anger to this -secluded spot. Passing this memorable place, a round clump of rock -attracts the eye, rising as it were in the centre of the valley, and -called Moel Wyn. Looking backward, Moel Hebog, the Hawk Hill, rises -majestically and closes up the entrance to Beddgelert. Moel Siabod -towers in front, and, as we pursued our delightful path about two miles -and a half from Beddgelert, an opening of the hills upon the left -displayed a deep gorge, and the base of Snowdon, whose high peak, rising -in the unclouded skies, held up the holy symbol of Christianity, as if in -adoration of the Creator. At length I reached Llyn Dinas, a lake of -about three quarters of a mile in extent, through which the Gwynant runs; -it is surrounded by lofty mountains of a deeper tint than is usually seen -upon the Welsh hills. A beautifully situated cottage here at the far end -of the lake, belonging to Mr. Sampson, nestles among the protecting -woods, and forms a delightful object. The river which feeds the lake, -winds through the verdant and undulating grounds which form a miniature -park between the cottage and the lake. Following up the course of the -stream, I left Llyn Dinas behind me, and proceeded by a gradual ascent -through the most delightful scenery I ever beheld, until I caught -glimpses through the plantations of - - - -LLYN GWYNANT, - - -and after a while beheld it stretching beneath me upon my left hand. The -valley forms a bowl among the hills. The bottom is a small grassy plain, -dotted with trees, which has obtained the appellation of Beauty sleeping -in the lap of Terror. The mountains that surround the vale have a wild -and rugged appearance. As I proceeded along the road towards the head of -the valley, a horn was sounded from the mountain, and I perceived a Welsh -girl standing upon a projecting eminence: bare headed and bare footed was -this nymph of Cambria; her cheeks were swelled out with her occupation, -and she looked like a female Boreas, bursting with the wind she was -sending forth by degrees to alarm the world. - - [Picture: Snowdon, from the Pass of Llyn Gwynant] - -She eyed me with glances of curiosity all the while, and I thought she -could perhaps give me some information about the valley, which might be -interesting; so quitting the direct road, I scrambled up the hill side, -and asked her the meaning of her sounding the horn so loudly? But she -either did not, or would not, understand me; and after vainly -endeavouring to extract anything from her, I quietly sat myself down, -delighted by the splendid view beneath me. - -Having nearly reached the extremity of this valley, I gazed, from my -elevated situation, upon the dark and perpendicular rocks on the opposite -side; and towering in the air immediately over the centre of the valley -was a hawk with expanded wings, apparently motionless. Presently it rose -a little higher, but without the slightest visible exertion, then stooped -again, mounted once more, and, as fast as the eye could follow, swept -round the huge buttresses of sharp ridged cliffs, that hang over the -entrance of the Pass of Llanberis. - -As Llyn Gwynant is gradually shut out from the lingering gaze of the -traveller, (who, it may be said, during the whole of the ascent, should -turn his eyes behind him,) and he at length looks forward in the -direction of Llanberis, a new scene of grandeur bursts upon him. He has -left beauty behind in its loveliest form;—but the sublime and wonderful -now call forth all the springs of admiration. - -Snowdon again appears in all his splendour! Mountains that by comparison -looked like hillocks rise round his regal waist, in groups numerous and -picturesque. The deep black crags that form the western side of the -valley make a magnificent fore-ground, and open here like nature’s gates, -to disclose the secrets of her bosom. The accompanying etching gives an -admirable idea of this imposing scene. About a mile from hence is a -place called Gwrydd, where there is a small public house, with a sign -signifying nothing. Here I resolved to “rough it” for a day, intending -to fish the lakes, situated immediately above this spot, as nature’s -cisterns to water the pleasant valleys. - -The public house possesses a small parlour, carpeted, with half a dozen -hair-bottomed chairs, and a mahogany table. A silent but most -importunate monitor urged me to discover what food this mountain chalet -could produce. “Eggs and bacon,” was the expected reply to my question; -and I soon had the pleasure of seeing this humble, but most grateful, -fare placed before me, and in spite of the indifferent style of the -cooking, I partook of it eagerly, having that incomparable sauce “a good -appetite.” - -After I had repaired my broken rod, I ascended the mountain at the back -of the house, and arrived at a large oval lake, in which the black and -sterile rocks that form inaccessible ramparts on one side are reflected -in its generally unruffled surface. The scene is wild and desolate, such -as Despair herself would select for her abode. There are plenty of fish -in this lake, but they are all small and extremely shy. I remained upon -its margin until the shadows of night gave me warning to attend to my -safety, and make the best of my way to my lodging, where I speedily -ascended by a ladder-like staircase to a kind of cock-loft, which was -divided into two compartments, one for the accommodation of the family, -man, wife, children, and servants, the other fitted up for travellers. -Sleep soon overtook me, and I should have continued to sleep, I have no -doubt, until breakfast time, had I not been awakened by a trifling -accident - - “At the mid hour of night, when stars were weeping,” - -and ghosts of the mighty walk upon the hills, with a variety of other -interesting objects that poets and nursery-maids have described -infinitely better than I can pretend to do, I was visited by a dream in -which the ghost of a lobster popped his head out of a salad bowl, and -demanded upon what authority I had presumed to make mince-meat of his -body, when a loud crash roused me from my slumber, and I found myself, -with my knees doubled up to my chin, upon the floor; the bedstead having -broken in the middle, and deposited me in this unenviable position. I -need not say that for the remaining part of the night I was wholly left -to waking reveries, and uncontrollable desires for the blessings of -daylight, which at last greeted my longing eyes, and hurrying on my -clothes, I descended, and walked forth to scent the morning air in the -direction of Llanberis. The mists rolled like troubled lakes in the -valleys, and the black bleak rocks looked cheerless and forbidding. The -breeze was keen and piercing, and I started at a round pace to get myself -warm by exercise. Having reached the summit of the roadway, I plunged at -once into the pass of Llanberis, wild and gloomy. The precipices on my -left looked truly terrible, like the shadow of death wrapped in a vapoury -shroud. This pass is above four miles in length, and is a fine specimen -of rugged grandeur. Not a single tree enlivens with its verdure this -tremendous chasm. Range above range of rocks tower over the traveller -upon either side, bearing various tints of black, brown, green, and -purple, according to the disposition of the sun’s rays, and the distances -of the ponderous masses. The rocks on both sides are nearly -perpendicular; and, about two miles down the pass, the tourist will -perceive some prodigious masses of rock upon his right hand that have -fallen from the overhanging cliffs, which, when he pauses to look upon, -will strike a feeling of terror into his heart, as he inwardly exclaims, -“could any one have witnessed the descent of this tremendous mass?” The -accompanying sketch gives a most accurate description. - - [Picture: Pass of Llanberis] - -We soon obtained a view of the lakes that spread themselves before -us—viz.: Llyn Peris and Llyn Padarn, with the romantic castle of -Dolbadarn upon its rocky promontory. On issuing from a pass on our left, -as I was informed, is a valuable copper mine, and a stream of water -conveyed over the road, by the aid of a wooden conduit, into the lake, -which stream was for the use of the mine. - -At length, I reached the inn, called Victoria, ordered breakfast, and -procured an admittance to the Castle of Dolbadarn. This ancient fortress -is supposed to have been built by one Padarn Beisrudd ab Idwal, for the -purpose of guarding the mountain pass which I had just quitted. A single -round tower is all that remains of the castle, although traces are left -of a much more extensive building. Here Owen Gôch was imprisoned twenty -years by his brother Llewelyn, the last Prince of Wales of the British -line; and an ode is still extant, written by Howel Voel, wherein his -captivity is affectionately lamented. - -The view from the castle is truly sublime, comprising the two lakes, and -the tremendous range of mountains, that seem to admit of no outlet from -the vale. But the most beautiful prospect is from the lake in front of -the promontory on which the castle stands, and is reflected in the smooth -waters beneath, while the majestic Snowdon towers in the distance. - -Returning to the Victoria, I partook of the refreshments provided, and -then retracing my steps, I visited the little rustic church of Llanberis, -which, for its simplicity, is well worthy of attention. Upon entering -the doorway, there is a small stone font placed upon a pedestal which is -approached by three stone steps: it resembles a small washing tub, and -its cover is much like a copper-lid. Advancing into the interior, the -music loft is upon the left, under which is a dilapidated screen, -opposite to the font. A doorway in the centre of the screen leads into -the body of the church, where ancient oaken benches are ranged upon -either side, and the pulpit and communion table are immediately in front. -The old arched roof is held together by iron pins, which project on each -side of the timbers, and the whole interior is whitewashed. The only pew -in the church adjoins the communion table, both of which have suffered -materially by the worm and time. The few monuments in this simple -structure are upon small slate slabs, about the size of a school-boy’s, -and are hung up on the wooden beams. - -On leaving the church, there is a monumental slate slab on the left of -the path, bearing the following inscription and verses:— - - Underneath - Lieth the remains - Of John, the son of - Robert Closs, who was - Interred Decr. 1st, - 1805, aged 7 years. - - Ar ben mynydd dydd-y-daith oî howyder - A che dodd y maith - Gadewais (gwelais goeg waith) - Drueni’r Byd ar unwaith. - Oerfel fu uchel a chos, i angau - Llyn ingol i’mddangos - Mantell niwl mewn tywyll nos - A dychryniad dechreunos. - -Upon returning to my inn at Gwrydd, I discovered that the landlady was -sister to little John Closs; and from her I learnt the story of his -melancholy fate. It is as follows:— - -John was a pretty boy, about seven years of age, with fair hair and blue -eyes, of a sweet temper, adored by his parents, and loving them most -affectionately in return. Indeed little John Closs was the talk of the -parish, and held up as a pattern of filial love and reverence to all the -children in the village. His uncle had a small farm at Nant Bettws; and -John’s father having sent him to reside there for a few months, the fond -mother would often cross the mountain to see her son and her sister, -returning home in the evening of the same day. Little John got tired of -living away from home, and one night, after his mother had quitted the -cottage to return to Llanberis, he wept so bitterly, and prayed so -earnestly to be permitted to follow her home, that the good people at -Bettws permitted him to try and overtake her, which they considered he -might easily do, as she had not left the house ten minutes before he -started. - -The mother reached Llanberis in safety; but the poor boy lost his way in -a snow storm on Moel Einion, and was not heard of for more than a week -afterwards; when, one day, a man crossing the mountain, found the child -stretched on the ground in a slumbering position, his face towards the -earth, buried in his hands, and quite dead. - -The following morning, I proceeded towards Capel Curig, but this road is -very uninteresting. The tourist is, however, amply gratified, if it -happen to be tolerably clear weather, on his arrival at an ancient stone -bridge which crosses a stream that tumbles over some black rocks on the -right, and winds its way in graceful variety, forming a pleasing spot to -rest upon. Looking back towards Llanberis, the mountain scenery is very -fine; and I here took my farewell look of Snowdon arid Snowdonia. - - - -CAPEL CURIG, - - -is in the parish of Llandegai. It derives its name from a man who was -canonized, and founded a chapel in this mountainous region. He was the -son of Llawdden Lluyddog, of Edinburgh. There are here two lakes, and -some tolerable fishing may be had, if you take a boat; but from the banks -it is quite useless to attempt it. From this spot, excursions may be -made to Llanberis, and - - - -MOEL SIABOD, - - -from the summit of which a magnificent view is obtained of the mountains -of Snowdonia, of nine different lakes, and the sea beyond Carnarvon. The -distance from the inn to the apex of the mountain does not exceed three -miles and a half. - - - -DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE, - - -situated about five miles from Capel Curig, and on the eastward side of -Moel Siabod, deserves notice. It is built upon a lofty rock, which on -one side is inaccessible. There are two square towers, and a court in -the middle. It is surrounded by mountains, and must in ancient days have -been a fortress of considerable importance. It is said, Llewelyn the -Great was born in the castle; and this fact is sufficient to interest the -stranger who is capable of appreciating and feeling reverence for a hero, -who so long struggled with unwearied assiduity and unconquerable bravery -for his native land, and who fought and died in the sacred cause of -liberty. - -Within four miles of Capel Curig is an oval lake, of about three miles in -circumference, called Llyn Ogwen which must by no means be overlooked. -The scenery around is delightful and the waters are well stored with -excellent trout of fine flavour, and surpassing all others in that -respect, in the Carnarvonshire lakes. - -At the western end of this lake, are the Falls of Benglog, (being three -in number and upwards of one hundred feet in height) from whence the -waters take their course through Beavers’ Hollow, a wild and romantic -glen, rocky and barren. - -Powell, in his History of North Wales, says, “In Tevi, above all the -rivers in Wales, were, in Giraldus’s time, a great number of castells, -which may be Englished beavers, and are called in Welsh avanc, which name -onlie remaineth in Wales at this day, but what it is, very few can tell. -It is a beast not much unlike an otter, but that it is bigger, all hearie -saving the taile, which is like a fish taile as broad as a man’s hand. -This beast useth as well the water as the land; and hath a voice, sharp -teeth, and biteth cruellie till he perceives the bones cracke. * * * * He -that will learn what strong nests they make, which Giraldus calleth -castells, which they build upon the face of the water with great bowes, -which they cut with their teeth, and how some lie upon their backs -holding the wood with their fore feet, which the other draweth with a -crosse stick, the which he holdeth in his mouth, to the water’s side, and -other particularities of their natures, let him read Giraldus in his -Topographie of Wales.” - -In this stream are found the fresh water muscle, which the country people -call _cregyn diluw_, i.e. _shells_ _of the deluge_, supposed to have been -brought into it by Noah’s flood. - -On the left of the lake are the Crags of Trivaen, huge shattered ridges, -which overhang the pool and keep it in continual shadow, while the sides -of Braich-ddu slope gradually to the lake’s margin. The Francon -Mountains, in the distance, are astonishing, and altogether this lake -scene may be considered the finest in Carnarvonshire. - -A gentleman, in the winter of 1831, was driving along the road which -skirts the borders of the lake, when upwards of a thousand tons of rock -fell from the heights of Benglog, a little below the Falls, into Nant -Francon, a short time after he had passed them, and he beheld one portion -roll into the valley and river, while the other rested upon the road he -had just travelled, rendering it impossible for any carriage to proceed -by that route, until the obstruction was removed. - -A mile distant from Llyn Ogwen is another lake, well worthy of being -visited, which lies in a deep hollow of the Glyder Mountains, called - - - -LLYN IDWAL, - - -where the gloomy horror of the scenery is most appalling; particularly -the terrific chasm of Twll Du, or the Black Cleft. This spot derived its -name from the following crime which was perpetrated here. - -Prince Owain Gwynedd, who reigned in the twelfth century, had a favourite -called Nevydd Hardd, to whose care he intrusted his son Idwal, and who -betraying his trust, commanded his son Dunawt to destroy the young -prince, a crime which he too faithfully obeyed, perpetrating the cruel -deed at this place. But, being discovered, Nevydd and his posterity were -degraded from the rank of nobles to bondsmen, and Rhun, the son of -Dunawt, who again became possessed of the property of his ancestors, -granted the ground upon which the Church of Llanrwst now stands, as an -expiatory gift for the foul crime imputed to his father. The grave of -Idwal is still pointed out by the inhabitants, close to the lake. - -The scenery around is well calculated to inspire fear in the timid, as -being adapted to the committal of atrocity of any kind. Bleak, black, -desolate, and stern, it thrills the beholder with an indescribable -sensation of terror. - -The lake is well stored with fish, of a darker colour than those in the -Ogwen, and of a less delicate flavour. These lakes are in the parish of -Llan Tegai, so called from its patron saint Tegai, the son of Ithel Hael, -a nobleman of Armorica, brother to Credivael and Flewin, who built -Penmynydd and Llanflewin, in Anglesey, about the year 636. _See -Rowland’s Mona Antiqua Rest_. _p._ 189. - -After a delightful day’s ramble amongst this wild and sublime scenery, I -returned to the inn at Capel Curig, and on the following morning took the -road to Llanrwst, which in a short time becomes particularly interesting. -The dark and comfortless sterility is exchanged for a delightful valley, -with luxuriant woods, which stretch to the summit of the hills upon -either side; and near the two mile stone is one of the most picturesque -cottages imaginable, placed on the side of a hill above the bridge, which -crosses the river Llugwy, and gives additional beauty to the romantic -dell. - -Half a mile beyond is an Observatory, which stands upon the highest point -of a towering cliff, a portion of whose summit is clothed with purple -heath, and the remainder presents a face of grey barren rock, while -beneath a forest of rich foliage creeps from its base far up the craggy -sides. - -Within a mile of this place are the celebrated waterfalls, called - - - -RHAIADR Y WENNOL, - - -i.e. the Cataract of the Swallow—a fall of about sixty feet in width. -The river, at the top of the first fall, flows in an unbroken sheet, but -soon becomes dispersed in various streams that dash and struggle through -the impending masses of rock, charming the ear with their complicated -roar. At the second fall, it rushes in a collected volume into the -boiling vortex, from whence, at the third, it is dispersed in spray. A -small wicket gate by the road side, leads to a footpath through the -grounds to the Falls, where the visitor cannot fail to find an adequate -reward for his digression. The old oak trees that overhang the ravine -are beautifully grouped. On one side, a large rock rises perpendicularly -nearly 500 feet, and the earth is clothed with velvet moss and decked -with wild flowers. Fancy would picture just such a retreat, for a -wandering sylph! while the rays of light, darting through the greenwoods, -remind us of the flittings of Sir John Wynne’s ghost, which was said to -haunt this glen for many years, but is now laid at rest in the depths of -the Lower Fall. Journeying onward, I reached the village of - - - -BETTWS Y COED, - - -which, being translated, is the Station in the Wood; and a most -delightful station it is. The Shrewsbury and Holyhead road runs through -it, and the junction of the Llugwy and the Conwy rivers is at no great -distance. The church is a venerable structure, and contains an old -monument, erected to the memory of Gruffydd, the son of David Gôch, who -was a natural son of David, the brother of Llewelyn, the last Prince of -Wales. He died in the fourteenth century, and a stone statue of him is -in a recess on the north side of the church, with this inscription: “Hic -jacet Gruffydd ap Davyd Gôch, agnus Dei miserere mei.” - -At about a mile from Bettws is an iron bridge of one arch, which carries -the Holyhead road over the river Conwy. Its span is 105 feet, and it is -called the Waterloo Bridge, from its having been erected in the year that -tremendous battle was fought. But the principal object is - - - -PONT-Y-PAIR, - - -the Bridge of the Caldron. It has four arches, and the natural rock -supplies it with piers, that seem to defy the efforts of time or the fury -of the waters. Immediately above the bridge is the fall and salmon-leap. -The river rolls and plunges into a deep reservoir below. The grandeur of -the scene during the floods, I was informed, surpasses imagination, and -unfortunately for me, the heat of the sun had dried them up, when I -visited this celebrated spot. - -For this bridge the inhabitants are indebted to one Howell, a mason, who -resided at Penllyn in the year 1468; and having occasion to attend the -assizes at Conway, he was unexpectedly prevented from passing the Lleder -by the fury of the flood. That a similar disappointment might not occur -to others, he erected a wooden bridge across that river, and trusted to -the generosity of travellers to remunerate him. The success of this -attempt encouraged him to erect the bridge at Bettws y Coed, which is now -called Pont y Pair, but he died before it was completed. - -Upon the right of this bridge is Carreg y Gwalch, or the Rock of the -Falcon, well clothed with trees, through which the bald cliffs peep, like -a body of sharp shooters from a brush wood anxious to escape detection. -In this rock is a recess called the Cave of Shenkin, a celebrated outlaw, -who found shelter here from the unremitting efforts of justice during the -reign of Edward IV. It is blocked up by a piece of rock. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - -Gwydir Castle.—Llanrwst Shaking Bridge.—Inn.—Town Hall.—Free -Schools.—Alms Houses.—Rhaiadr y Parc Mawr.—Llyn -Geirionydd.—Taliesin.—Trevriw.—Slate Quarries.—Conway.—The Suspension -Bridge.—The Castle.—Local Customs.—Excursion to the Orme’s Head. - - “On a rock whose haughty brow - Frowned o’er old Conway’s foaming flood, - Rob’d in a sable garb of woe, - With haggard eye, the poet stood.” - - GRAY. - -WITHIN half a mile from the town of Llanrwst is - - - -GWYDIR CASTLE, - - -the property of Lord Willoughby d’Eresby, a family mansion of no very -attractive appearance. It is situated on the right of the road which -winds between it and a lofty wood-clad precipice, called Carreg y Gwalch, -or the Rock of the Falcon. It was built by John Wynne ab Meredydd, in -1555, and has lately undergone some alteration. The breakfast parlour -contains a curious carving of the arms of the Gwydir family, supported by -Julius Cæsar and Augustus; the former holding his commentaries in one -hand, and his sword in the other; the latter, his sword only. The dining -room has some specimens of carving, that are worthy of observation; but -throughout the mansion there is very little of what belonged to it -originally. The chairs, panelling, and even tables, being coloured for -the purpose of giving the apartments the appearance of antique splendour, -which, until lately, they wanted. - -The drawing-room is spacious and lofty, and is lighted by a double row of -windows, which gives it a heavy look: this unusual arrangement was caused -by the removal of the dormitory, to give height to this room. Over the -fire-place is a finely executed carving of Julius Cæsar in oak. At the -N.W. end of the room, a piece of tapestry represents a vintage, and at -the S.E. another specimen of needlework commemorates the landing of -Charles the Fifth at Grenada. - -The coronation chair of George the Second is shewn in this apartment, and -the footstool used by Queen Caroline on her trial at Westminster Hall. -There is a centre table, very richly ornamented with carved work; and -another, which in shape exactly resembles the slab and pedestal of a -tombstone, so that the visitor naturally enough walks up to it, expecting -to see the customary “Hic jacet,” &c. - -The cradle of Sir Richard Wynne, bearing the date of 1634, completes the -list of curiosities contained in this room. - -The garden, which is extensive, contains some valuable plants and shrubs, -and the terrace is a pleasant promenade, sloping from which are beds of -beautiful flowers, of various classes and descriptions. After satisfying -the housekeeper with a trifling gratuity, I proceeded to Llanrwst, but -halted upon the bridge to take a view of the Conwy, (over which beautiful -river its arches expand) and the town to which it leads. I was here -accosted by an old man, who asked me, “if I should like to feel the -bridge shake?” As I answered in the affirmative, he desired me to place -my back against the side over the centre arch, and striking the opposite -parapet rather heavily with his own, a tremulous motion was distinctly -felt; on this account it is called the Shaking Bridge. It was built in -1636, from a plan of the celebrated Inigo Jones, and cost £1000, which -was defrayed by the counties of Denbighshire and Carnarvonshire, which it -unites. - - - -LLANRWST - - -is built upon the Denbighshire side of the river. The Three Eagles is -the most commodious inn in the town; and, being rather fatigued, I threw -my limbs upon a sofa, and resigned myself to the drowsy god, first taking -especial care to order a substantial repast to be in readiness for me on -my return from the land of Nod. My last waking recollection was the -words of Mr. Lover’s favourite song, - - “There’s no use at all in my going to bed, - For its dhrames and not sleep, that comes into my head.” - -Dreams, however, did not picture my slumbers, and I awoke to the -unrivalled delight of a weary and hungry traveller—an excellent hot -dinner. - -The following morning I employed in paying my respects to the different -gentlemen to whom I had letters, and in gaining what information I could -respecting the objects most worthy of notice in the town and surrounding -neighbourhood. - -The church and chapel adjoining were the first subjects to engage my -attention. In the former there is nothing interesting, excepting an -oaken screen, exquisitely carved, which was taken from the Abbey of -Maenan, the gallery for the singers being above it. On the opposite side -is the - - - -GWYDIR CHAPEL. - - -This beautiful structure was erected in the year 1633, by Sir Richard -Wynne, of Gwydir, from a design of Inigo Jones, and was for many years -the burial place of the illustrious family of Gwydir. At the sides of -the chapel, fixed in panels of wood, are several engravings on brass, -illustrative of the personages who are interred below; and in the east -corner is a tablet of white marble, containing the following remarkable -pedigree, comprising a period of 500 years. - - “This chapel was erected A.D. 1633, by Sir Richard Wynne, of Gwydir, - in the county of Carnarvon, Knight and Baronet; Treasurer to the High - and Mighty Princess Henrietta Maria, Queen of England, Daughter of - Henry the Fourth, King of France, and wife to our Sovereign Lord King - Charles; where lieth buried his father Sir John Wynne, of Gwydir, - Knight and Baronet, son and heir to Morris Wynne, son and heir to - John Wynne, son and heir to Meredith Wynne, which three lie buried in - the church of Dolwyddelen, with tombs over them. This Meredith was - son and heir to Evan, son and heir to Robert, son and heir to - Meredith, son and heir to Howell, son and heir to David, son and heir - to Griffith, son and heir to Cradock, son and heir to Roderick, Lord - of Anglesea, son to Owen Gwynneth, Prince of Wales, and younger - brother to David, Prince of Wales who married Emma Plantagenet, - sister to King Henry the Second. There succeeded this David three - princes; his nephew Leolinus Magnus, who married Joan, daughter to - King John,—David, his son, nephew to King Henry the Third,—and - Llewelyn the last Prince of Wales of that house and line, who lived - in King Edward the First’s time. Sir John Wynne married Sydney, who - lyeth buried here, daughter of Sir William Gerrard, Knight, Lord - Chancellor of Ireland, by whom he had issue, Sir John Wynne, who died - at Lucca, in Italy, Sir Richard Wynne, now living, Thomas Wynne, who - lyeth here, Owen Wynne, now living, Robert Wynne, who lyeth here, - Roger Wynne, who lyeth here, William Wynne, now living, Maurice - Wynne, now living, Ellis Wynne, who lyeth buried at Whitford, in the - County of Flint, Henry Wynne, now living, Roger Wynne, who lyeth - here, and two daughters, Mary, now living, married to Sir Roger - Mostyn, in the County of Flint, Knight, and Elizabeth, now living, - married to Sir John Bodville, in the County of Carnarvon, Knight.” - -Beneath this is a superb engraving of Dame Sarah Wynne, one of the -daughters of the old Chevalier Sir Thomas Myddelton, of Chirk Castle, and -wife of the above-mentioned Sir Richard Wynne; she died June 16th, 1671. -This piece of engraving was executed by one William Vaughan, in a style -of elegance hardly to be met with, and may be justly reckoned among the -first productions of the age in which he lived. - -On the south side are two stately pyramidal columns of variegated marble, -decorated with martial insignia; one to the memory of Meredith Wynne, the -other to Sir John Wynne and Sydney his wife; on their pedestals are Latin -inscriptions on black marble which have been thus translated:— - - “To the Memory of Meredith Wynne, a descendant of Owen Gwynedd, - Prince of Wales, who under happy auspices, founded the House of - Gwydir, removed and endowed the Church of Sant Gwyddelen, during the - third Tournean expedition, in the fifth year of Henry the Eighth. He - died in the month of March, 1525.” - - “To the Memory of John Wynne of Gwydir, Knight and Baronet, with - Sydney the daughter of William Gerrard, Knight, Chancellor of the - Kingdom of Ireland, the wife of his youth, to whom she bore eleven - sons and two daughters; they lie here waiting the appearance of - Christ in Glory.” - -Between the above monuments is a small tablet of white marble to the -memory of John Wynne ab Meredith with a Latin inscription to the -following effect:— - - “John Wynne ab Meredith, - an inheritor of his Father’s virtues, a just and pious - man, to whom Euna, his wife, brought five - sons and two daughters. He died - the 9th of July, 1559.” - -On the floor is a stone effigy in armour, with the feet resting on a lion -couchant, of Howel Coetmore ap Gruffydd Vychan ap Dafydd Gam, alias Gôch, -natural son to David, Prince of Wales, from whose descendants according -to tradition, Gwydir was purchased by the Wynnes. - -Near to the effigy of Howel Coetmore is the under-part of a stone coffin -in which Llewelyn ab Iorwerth, surnamed the Great, the son-in-law of King -John, was buried at the Abbey of Conwy; to the coffin is fixed a piece of -brass with this inscription:— - - “This is the coffin of Leolinus Magnus, Prince - of Wales, who was buried at the Abbey of - Conwy, which upon the dissolution - was removed thence.” - -On going from the chapel to the church, you pass over a large square flag -of free stone, having on its sides a Latin inscription thus translated:— - - “To the Memory of the Sons of John Wynne of Gwydir, Knight and - Baronet, who died during their father’s life time; John, Knight, was - buried at Lucca, in the free State of Italy, in the year of his age - 30, of our Lord 1613. Robert, who had entered into holy orders, in - the year of his age 24, of our Lord 1617. Thomas, Roger, Thomas, in - their minority.—Death! a vapour! Behold! we have existed.” - -In the chancel, between the reading desk and the communion table, is a -flag of free stone on the remains of Margaret Vaughan, heiress of -Caergai; she was esteemed the Sappho of her age; many of her poetical -productions are still extant. - -The gallery over the reading desk is said to have been removed here from -the Abbey of Aberllechog, or Maenan Abbey, upon the dissolution of that -religious house. - - [Picture: The Coffin of Leolinus Magnus] - -Under the reading desk in the Church, in a pew belonging to Kyffdy, is a -Latin epitaph to the memory of Griffith Lloyd, of Bruniog, Rector of this -parish; this is said to have been written by himself, and has been much -admired for its singularity: it runs thus:— - - “Once the undeserving School-master, - Then the more undeserving Lecturer, - And last of all, the most undeserving Rector of this Parish. - Do not think, speak, or write any thing evil of the dead.” - -There is a Market Hall, Town Hall, Free Schools, and Alms Houses. The -latter were erected by Sir John Wynne, in 1610, and received the name of -Jesus Hospital. He endowed them for the reception of twelve poor men, by -ceding the rectorial tithes of Eglwys Vâch, which are valued at £200 per -annum. Within a mile of Llanrwst there is a spring, which is much -esteemed for its healthful qualities. The water is soft, and a drop of -sal-volatile mixed with a cup of it turns it white as milk, while oil of -tartar causes it to assume a pearl colour. If during the tourist’s visit -to Llanrwst there should chance to fall much rain, I would advise him by -all means to view the cataract called - - - -RHAIADR Y PARC MAWR, - - -in the valley of Nant Bwlch yr Haiarn, near Gwydir, but otherwise the -minuteness of the stream occasions no extraordinary effect from this -fall, which is about one hundred feet in height. The chief object of -interest, however, in this vicinity, is the celebrated lake, called - - - -LLYN GEIRIONYDD, - - -upon the borders of which once lived the chief of the Welsh bards, -Taliesin. At the eastern side of the lake is a mound, upon the summit of -which there is a kind of hollow, and in it are the remains of an ancient -edifice, which was probably the residence of Taliesin, in the reign of -Maelgwn Gwynedd, King of Britain. Taliesin when an infant was found by -Prince Elphin by the side of a wear belonging to his father, Gwyddno -Garanhir, Lord of Cantrev Gwaelod. The Prince fostered the infant, and -had it liberally educated; and, at a proper age, introduced him to the -court of his father, Gwyddno. Upon this occasion, Taliesin presented the -king with a poem, the subject of which was his own history, and another -to the prince, which he called Dyhuddiant Elphin, or the consolation of -Elphin, a translation of which is in Evan’s Specimens of Welsh Poetry. -Taliesin had an opportunity of being serviceable to his benefactor; for -once, when the Prince was imprisoned by his uncle, Maelgwn, in the castle -of Dyganwy, the magic of his muse effected his release. This celebrated -bard was the preceptor of Merddin ab Morvryn, and to him the lovers of -poetry are indebted for five new metres, while the historian and -antiquary are equally benefited by his accurate description of the -manners and customs of the Ancient Britons. - -I quitted Llanrwst on the following morning, and took the road to Conwy; -two miles and a half brought me to the pretty village of - - - -TREVRIW, - - -which presents an animated scene. It is situated upon the banks of the -beautiful river Conwy, which is navigable up to this point for vessels of -fifty tons burthen, that supply the town and neighbourhood with coals, -lime, groceries, &c., &c., and return laden with slate, supplied from the -adjacent mines and quarries. A number of small boats, called coracles, -used by the fishermen, are seen studding the delightful stream, while the -larger vessels, towed against the wind or sailing before it, present a -pleasing picture. From this place to Conwy there is nothing particularly -to attract attention, until you arrive within a mile of that celebrated -town, when, from the brow of a hill, is obtained a view of the venerable -fortress erected by the first Edward, and the strongly fortified walls, -completely encompassing the town, and strengthened by massive towers. -They are coeval with the castle, and are built in the form of a Welsh -harp, like those of Carnarvon; but here there are no environs, and the -town presents the same appearance as when the chivalric monarch first -fortified it. - - - -CONWY. - - -The town derives its name from Cyn (chief) and Wy river. - -The principal inn is the Castle, which affords every accommodation the -traveller can desire. The Wynnes are celebrated here, as in all parts of -North Wales. In the interior of the town stands Plâs Mawr, which was -erected in 1585, and is still a remarkable structure; its founder was -Robert Wynne, of Gwydir, the uncle of Sir John Wynne, the historian. -Over the grand entrance is inscribed, in Greek characters “_bear and -forbear_,” over which in Roman characters, “J. H. S. X. P. S.” (Jesus -Hominum Salvator et Populi Salus.) The Old College is in Castle Street, -and the Church is built from the remains of the ancient Cistercian Abbey, -which was founded here by Llewelyn ab Iorwerth, 1185. It contains a rich -baptismal font of gothic structure, with a tablet to the memory of -Nicholas Hookes, of the town of Conwy, who was the forty-first child of -William and Alice Hookes, and who was himself the father of twenty-seven -children. - -During my short stay in Conwy, I endeavoured to discover the best view of -the town, which, I think, is from the eastern side of the river, about -midway between the chain bridge and the mansion of Dyganwy. Nothing can -be more interesting. The variety of small craft, sailing and anchored, -before its warlike screen; the castle, with its towers and turrets, -rising in hostile grandeur upon its rocky base; the bridges, and lovely -scenery beyond of purple hills and thriving villages; and the bright -waters sporting with the luxuriant foliage of its woody margin, create a -sensation of delight in the pursuer of picturesque scenery which he has -probably seldom before experienced. - - [Picture: Conwy Castle] - -Another delightful view may be obtained by ascending the rock which -overhangs the lodge of the suspension bridge upon its eastern side. This -very beautiful specimen of art has however lost a great portion of its -attraction since the completion of the more wonderful structure of the -Tubular Bridge, which, like a mighty conqueror, looks proudly conscious -of its own importance, and compels the former to take a secondary -position in the estimation of the visitor. It consists of only one span -of 400 feet, and two abutments of masonry, which are in perfect harmony -with the venerable appearance of the Castle. But the chief object of -interest is the Castle, which surpasses in picturesque grandeur any -building of the kind I ever beheld. I thought Carnarvon Castle the most -beautiful of ruins, but it is not, in my opinion, to be compared with -Conwy. The solidity of its structure, and its expansive site, resembling -the fortresses of Syria and the Holy Land, give to its exterior all that -the most romantic imagination could desire. Its foundation is a rock of -slate, and its works are impregnable. Nothing but famine could, at the -time it was erected, have had power to subdue it. Its walls are from ten -to twelve feet in thickness, and it had formerly a deep and broad moat, -on the west and north-west sides; which, with the sea washing its base on -the east and south, formed insurmountable barriers to the assailants. - -It was evening when I first entered this noble ruin. The porteress very -ungraciously left me to my meditations after admitting me, locking the -gate after her, and leaving me like a state prisoner in the royal -fortress. I confess I was little pleased with the manners of my -conductress, and the solitary situation in which I was placed, and -sensations arose within me like those which a school boy feels when -passing a churchyard at midnight. The sun had set, and the deep shadows -of eve were darkening into night, as I stood alone in the court yard, and -flitting visions arose before me of those who had crossed its space in -distant by-gone ages—“the plumed troops,” and courtly dames, and all the -glitter of the olden times. As I thus stood amongst the ruins, a deep -drawn sigh, close by my ear, made my heart leap into my throat, as I -turned to discover from whence it proceeded. But all was solitude -around. The huge festoons of ivy, unruffled by a breath of air hung in -funereal grandeur on the walls. As I passed into what had been the -banqueting hall, the darkness increased. It was a noble apartment, and -measured 130 feet in length, and thirty in breadth, in height twenty. -Nine windows looked southward, up the river, and two into the courtyard. -In the recesses were stone seats, capable of accommodating twelve -persons; and, as I seated myself in one of these, my delusion of other -days came over me. Here sat the first Edward, the hero of Palestine; -here was the monarch besieged, and almost reduced by famine; here Hotspur -and King Richard held a conference; and the latter, putting himself into -the power of Northumberland, was betrayed by him, and sent a prisoner to -the usurper, Bolingbroke. - - “Life’s but a walking shadow—a poor player, - That struts and frets his hour upon the stage, - And then is heard no more!” - -As I made this apt quotation, another deep and heavy sigh, and a rustling -in the ivy, startled me, and the bird of solitude, the lonely owl, -flapped his heavy wings, and flew past me to a remoter corner of the -ruined hall. I arose, and walked to a small chamber, where there was an -open ornamented casement, and which, as I was afterwards informed, bears -the name of the Queen’s Oriel; from which there is a pleasant prospect of -part of the ruin and scenery beyond. - -I then proceeded to the terrace, at the south-western extremity, which is -on the surface of the rock, and the prospect from this spot, interesting -at all times, is doubly so by moonlight. The suspension and tubular -bridges beneath, the ocean on the left, and this fertile valley on the -right, with the sparkling Conwy meandering through it, compose a scene of -unexampled beauty. - -In the year 1290, when Edward was engaged in a dispute with the King of -France, and was determined to revenge himself upon that potentate, in -order to obtain supplies, he made the experiment of taxing his -newly-acquired Welsh subjects; which they resented by hanging Roger de -Pulesdon, who had been appointed to collect the tax; and by defeating the -English forces, who attempted to enforce them. Alarmed at a revolt, -which was now rising into importance, and which threatened to wrest from -him his new dominions, Edward entered North Wales, to conduct the war in -person. Having proceeded in his march to Conwy, he crossed that arm of -the sea with a part of his forces, and retiring into the castle with -them, awaited the arrival of the remainder. In his passage he lost many -waggons, and other carriages loaded with provisions, which were -intercepted by the Welsh, who came down in multitudes from the mountains, -and invested the castle upon the land side, while a sudden rise in the -Conwy, which prevented his troops from crossing the river and rendering -him assistance, made his situation extremely alarming. He was surrounded -by water and the enemy, cut off from his army, and threatened with -famine. The good fortune of Edward, however, returned to him in the hour -of need. The river subsided, and his forces being able to cross to his -relief, the Welsh again retired to the mountains, and the English monarch -passed his Christmas holidays without interruption at the castle. - -In 1665, the Earl of Conwy, under pretence of its being for his majesty’s -service, stripped the castle of all its furniture, iron, and lead, and -shipped them off to Ireland, otherwise it might have remained as firm and -entire at the present day, as when it was first erected. If these Goths -were aware of the ignominy they attached to their shields by acts so -disgraceful, they might perhaps have permitted beauty and grandeur to -remain undefiled by their sacrilegious touch. - -The young men still keep up many of the ancient local customs; amongst -which, on Nos Calanmai, or, the eve of the first of May, they hang on the -houses of their sweethearts bunches of rosemary and ribbons. - -At the door of a prude they tie a penglog, or part of a horse’s skeleton. -There is likewise a custom preserved called Stocsio. Upon Easter Sunday, -a great number of boys and men assemble on Pentwthil, with wands of -gorse, to proclaim the laws and regulations which are to be observed upon -the following morning. The last married person is sought to perform this -office, who, mounted on a heap of stones, issues his mandate, while the -rest listen with silent attention. He decrees that all men under sixty -years of age are to appear in the street before six o’clock on the -following morning; and all under forty, before four; and all under twenty -are commanded not to go to bed at all, under penalty of being put into -the stocks. The orator then descends, amidst loud cheering, and the -assembled parties separate; the younger branches to form plans of -amusement, and the graver to secure their carts, waggons, and -wheelbarrows, with chains and locks, to prevent their being seized upon -the following day; a very necessary precaution, as every vehicle, -unchained, or otherwise unsecured, is sure of being pressed before dawn -of day into the service of the light-hearted youths, who are not over -careful of their neighbours’ property during the uproarious period of -their festivity. Early in the morning, the stocks are placed at one end -of the street, and a party, marching to the inspiring music of a drum and -fife, parade the town, in order to convey to the place of punishment all -seceders from this ancient law of custom. When they arrive at a house -where a rebel resides, the storming party endeavour, by all practicable -means, to gain admittance; such as climbing in at the windows, forcing -open the back door, &c., and they generally secure the culprit; who, if -he be caught in bed, is allowed sufficient time to dress himself, and -then hurried away to the stocks, amid the exulting shouts of the -assembled multitude. His feet being secured, one of the party gives him -a severe lecture upon the sin of idleness, and of breaking old -established customs. Then taking his right hand, he puts questions to -him; such as, whether he would rather kiss the mistress or the -maid?—whether he prefers buttermilk or strong ale?—and the more -satisfactory his answers are to the party, the more thickly his hand is -plastered with mud, until at length he is released, and with loud -cheering, permitted to join the forces, as they march off in search of -another rebel. - -There is a pearl fishery at Conwy, and many poor families are supported -by gathering the muscles which contain these gems. The fish is called by -Linnæus _mya margaritifera_. The produce is transmitted to London in the -pure natural state, and easily finds a market amongst the jewellers, who -purchase them by weight, but in the neighbourhood of Conwy the purposes -they are appropriated to are unknown. It was my good fortune to meet -with a brother tourist at the Castle Inn; who after acquainting me with -the above facts, offered to conduct me in the morning to Llandudno, which -offer I thankfully accepted; and, before the sun had finished his draught -of mountain dew, we had crossed the bridge, and were pursuing our course -to the appointed spot. The tide was at low ebb, and a pleasant walk of -three-quarters of a mile upon the hard sand brought us to - - - -DINAS GONWY, - - -“The fort of the Conwy.” By the English, it is called the Gannoc, and by -the common people in the neighbourhood “Y Vaer dre.” - -The ruins of an ancient castle are to be seen at a short distance, -situated upon two hillocks, near the shore. From thence we crossed by -Eglwys Rhôs, where Maelgwn Gwynedd is said to have taken refuge to avoid -the yellow fever, which was committing great havoc in all parts of -Europe. Gloddaeth, the residence of the Hon. Lloyd Mostyn, is sweetly -situated near this place. It was built by his ancestors in the reign of -Elizabeth, and is celebrated for the Welsh manuscripts contained in the -library, now removed to Mostyn. The grounds are most tastefully laid -out, and the tourist will find himself amply rewarded for his pains while -viewing the extreme beauty of the scenes around. - - - -LLANDUDNO - - -Is built at the foot of a huge mass of rock which projects into the sea, -called the Great Orme’s Head. The old church is dedicated to St. Tudno, -who lived in the beginning of the sixth century. There is a curious old -screen in the church of great antiquity: it is made of wood, and supposed -to have been brought from the chapel at Gogarth. - -On an eminence above the village is Dinas, which, as its name implies, -was a fortified post of the Ancient Britons. A wall of great thickness -encircles the summit of the hill, and within the area are great numbers -of hollow circles, edged with stones about twelve feet in diameter. This -fortification is exactly similar to that on Conwy town mountain, on -Penmaen Mawr, and in many other places; and it answered the same purpose: -not for a constant residence, but only as a place of refuge on the -approach of an enemy. - -Near this place is a _maen sigl_, or rocking stone, called _Cryd Tudno_, -or St. Tudno’s Cradle. It is an immense stone, which is so equally -poised that a very slight degree of pressure will enable a person to put -it in motion. - -The greater part of the inhabitants of Llandudno derive their livelihood -from the copper mines, which have been carried on in every direction. -The discovery of rude implements in old closed up shafts, such as hammers -of stone, and chisels of bones thoroughly impregnated with copper, is an -evidence of their having been worked at a very remote period. - -This village has become, within the last few years, a favourite resort -for sea-bathing, and is rapidly increasing in population and importance. - -We arrived at the Castle, in Conwy, greatly fatigued, and equally -delighted with our day’s journey. The following morning we proceeded by -railway to Bangor. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - -Bangor.—Inns.—The Cathedral.—Penrhyn Castle.—The Britannia and Menai -Bridges.—Carnarvon.—The Castle.—Rhyl.—Holywell.—St. Winefred’s -Well.—Basingwerk.—Flint.—Chester.—Conclusion. - - “When the heathen trumpet’s clang - Round beleaguer’d Chester rang, - Veiled nun and friar grey - March’d from Bangor’s fair Abbaye; - High their holy Anthem sounds, - Cestria’s vale the hymn rebounds, - Floating down the silver Dee, - O Miserere Domine!” - - SIR WALTER SCOTT. - - - -BANGOR. - - -This town derives its name from Ban Cor, which means the high choir. - -We stopped at the Penrhyn Arms, a most commodious inn, which is capable, -it is said, of making up one hundred beds nightly. It occupies a -commanding situation, and from the back premises embraces a noble -prospect;—the Straits, the Shore of Anglesey, the Bay of Beaumaris, -Penrhyn Castle, Puffin Island, Penmaen Mawr, and the Great Orme’s Head, -with the ocean in the distance. - -There are other excellent inns in the town, namely the Castle, the -Liverpool Arms, and the Albion; the latter is extremely comfortable, and -the landlord civil and obliging, as I most willingly testify from -experience. There is no place in Wales so well calculated for a tourist -to make his head quarters as Bangor. The various spots he may visit by -appropriating a day to each, would supply him with gratification for a -month at least. - -Near the spot where the London road branches off from the Chester, is the -grand entrance to Penrhyn Castle, the property of Col. the Hon. D. -Pennant, M.P. The lodge is a beautiful specimen of substantial -architecture; it is protected by a corresponding gateway, massive and -imposing. The park wall extends circularly seven miles, and is thirteen -feet high. To describe the magnificence of the interior of the castle I -feel would prove a vain effort, and I earnestly recommend all tourists -who take this route not to quit the neighbourhood without seeing it, or -they will be reproached for slighting one of the grandest treats old -Cambria can afford them. - - - -THE CATHEDRAL - - -Was founded by Maelgwn Gwynedd, King of Wales, of whom I have had -occasion to speak before, as the patron of Taliesin, the celebrated Welsh -bard. - -The original edifice, which was erected in 525, was destroyed in 1071, -and rebuilt shortly after, but was again reduced to ruins by Owen -Glyndwr, and for ninety years was neglected, until Bishop Dean restored -the choir, and the body of the tower was rebuilt by Bishop Skeffington, -in 1532, which still remains in a perfect state of preservation. The -free school was founded in 1557, by Dr. Jeffrey Glynn, upon the site of -an ancient parish church, built by King Edgar, within about 400 yards of -the present cathedral, and is considered an excellent preparatory -seminary for Oxford and Cambridge. - -The remains of an ancient castle, built by Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester, -in the reign of Henry the Second, are still visible upon a rock opposite -to the free school, and some pieces of scoria, found on the spot, lead us -to suppose arrows were manufactured there. At the back of the Friar’s -School is another hill, and on the top of it are the remains of a British -encampment. - -The town, within the last twenty years, has been extended to nearly four -times its original magnitude, and possesses an appearance of cleanliness -particularly gratifying. - -The great lions of Bangor are the Menai and Britannia Tubular Bridges. - - - -THE MENAI BRIDGE. - - -The principal opening between the supporting pillars is 560 feet in -breadth, through which the vessels pass with all their canvas set, -without the least danger of their masts touching the overhanging bridge. -There are four stone arches upon the Anglesey side, and three upon the -Carnarvon, which complete the roadway, and have each a span of fifty -feet. The length of the bridge is 800 feet, and its height is 100 feet -above the surface of the Menai at high water. The weight of the bridge -and its suspending chains, between the pyramids is six hundred and -thirty-nine tons, nineteen hundred and nine pounds; and that of the iron -work from one extremity of the chains to the other is estimated at 2130 -tons, 1800 consisting of wrought, and three hundred and thirty of cast -iron. - -The first stone of this astonishing work was laid by W. A. Provis, Esq., -on the 10th August, 1820; and on the 20th April, 1825, the first main -chain was thrown across the strait. This important step being completed, -three of the workmen, in the height of their enthusiasm, ventured to walk -along the chain from pier to pier; and a cobbler no less daring and -enthusiastic, seated himself in the centre of the curve, and, while -suspended at the fearful height, with sky above and the deep water of the -strait gliding beneath him, drove the last sparable into one of those -convenient comforts called clogs. - -The view from the centre of the bridge beggars description. Waving -woods, barren precipices, distant mountains, Bangor, and Beaumaris, -Penrhyn Castle, Penmaen Mawr, the Great Orme’s Head, the ocean, and the -strait, are objects that dazzle and astonish from the exquisite beauty of -their natural arrangement. - -But even this, the noblest specimen of hanging bridges in the world, is -eclipsed by the monster - - - -BRITANNIA TUBULAR BRIDGE, - - -which crosses the Straits about a mile above it on the Carnarvonshire -side. Fully to appreciate this monster work of human ingenuity, the -traveller should ascend the Britannia Tower, which rises from a rock in -the centre of the Straits, and gaze upon the glorious panorama which -surrounds him. Upon the Carnarvonshire side he will behold the mountains -of Snowdonia veiling their lofty summits in the clouds. Along their -sides, and through their mighty bulks, the railroad train now rolls its -dragon form, shaking their rocky ribs, and awakening their echoes in its -swift and thundering course; beneath him are the Menai Straits, through -which the imprisoned waters of the Irish Sea and St. George’s Channel -vibrate everlastingly backwards and forwards, at the same time -successively rise and fall, occasioning an endless succession of aqueous -changes. Upon the shores of Anglesey a rich and fertile country studded -with villas, surrounded by luxuriant woods, and waving corn, presents -itself, forming a pleasing contrast to the wild grandeur of the Snowdon -Hills, and exhibiting an example of the perfection of cultivation, -cheerful labour, and undisturbed tranquillity. - -It was originally intended to carry the Chester and Holyhead line across -the Suspension Bridge, and to detach the trains at each end of the -bridge, leaving the carriages to be drawn over by horses, but the -government objected to this arrangement, considering that it would be -proved to be a public inconvenience. A bridge of two cast iron arches, -to be supported on piers of masonry, was next proposed: this second -project was objected to by the masters of the Carnarvon harbour, upon the -plea that it would seriously interfere with the navigation of the -Straits. At length Mr. Robert Stephenson offered to construct a mode of -transit which should entirely do away with all objections. He had come -to the conclusion that a tube, or tunnel of wrought iron, sufficiently -large for the passage of trains, would be the most plausible plan, as it -would neither endanger the navigation nor cause any delay to the railway -carriages in crossing over the Straits. His plan was adopted, and the -stupendous work of art which now awakens the astonishment of the -beholder, will bear the name of Stephenson down to remote posterity, -attached as it is to one of the brightest ornaments of the nineteenth -century. - -From Bangor the traveller can proceed by rail to - - - -CARNARVON, - - -which is one of the best towns in North Wales, the transit is performed -in less than half an hour, and he will reap unqualified pleasure by -examining the numerous interesting objects which render that celebrated -place so remarkable. - -The present town of Carnarvon is sprung from the ruins of the ancient -Roman city of Segontium, which name the Welsh had changed into the apt -one of Caer yn Arvon, or the Fortress in Arvon, the district bordering on -Môn, the Welsh name for Anglesey. The site, which for the natural -strength of its position, was admirably chosen by our first Edward, is -bounded on the one side by the Menai, and by the estuary of the Seiont on -the other, and on the third and part of the fourth by the creek of the -Menai. - -The castle is the chief object of attraction, and excites the admiration -of all who gaze upon its time-worn but majestic walls. The entrance to -it is beneath a huge tower, upon the front of which is carved the statue -of Edward, the founder, who grasps his dagger as if menacing his newly -acquired and most unwilling subjects. Unlike the towers of Conwy Castle, -which are round, those of Carnavon are polygonal, hexagonal, and -octagonal, and the tourist should notice especially the Eagle Tower, -which is the loftiest of them all, and which at one time possessed a -double interest, created by the popular belief that Edward the Second was -born within its walls; unfortunately, however, there are records in the -national archives which prove that the Eagle Tower was not finished until -that unhappy monarch was thirty years of age. - -The castle covers about two and a half acres of ground, and forms an -oblong irregular square. The walls, which are at present exactly in the -same state as they were in the time of Edward, are defended by thirteen -great towers, the masonry of which is about seven feet nine inches in -thickness, and have within them a series of galleries with narrow œillets -or slips for the discharge of arrows. The walls of the Eagle Tower are -about nine feet six inches in thickness, and the view from its summit, of -the Menai and Anglesey on the one side, and Snowdonia on the other, is -extremely fine. The mutilated eagle upon the tower is supposed to be -Roman, and that Edward found it at Old Segontium. - -Near the steep bank of the Seiont, at a short distance from the castle -are rather extensive remains of an ancient Roman fort, which, it would -seem, was intended to secure a landing place in the event of an attack. -A little above this, and about a quarter of a mile from the Menai, is the -site of the ancient Roman station Segontium, of which some fragments of a -wall are the only visible remains, but underground the relics are more -numerous; at the depth of a few feet occur foundations of buildings, -broken pottery, ashes, and so forth—while numerous coins (some of them -gold) and other Roman remains have, at various times, been exhumed. -According to Mathew of Westminster, Constantius, the father of -Constantine the Great, was interred here, and the same historian further -asserts that Edward found the body and caused it to be honourably buried -in the Church (it is supposed) of St. Publicius, or Llanbeblig. - -Having gratified his curiosity, the traveller may once more take the -rails for Bangor, and, accompanied by pleasing visions of past greatness, -return to his inn well satisfied with his day’s excursion. - -After remaining three days in this interesting neighbourhood, I took my -departure from Bangor towards Chester. The tourist who may be inclined -to follow my track, and has sufficient time to spare, should leave the -train at - - - -RHYL, - - -A pretty watering place at the termination of the beautiful Vale of -Clwyd, and near the mouth of the river from which it derives its name. -The town is neat, and is yearly increasing in importance. From hence the -visitor will obtain a view of the Great Orme’s Head, the Puffin Island, -and the wide expanse of the Irish Sea. The sands are extensive, and -admirably adapted for sea bathing; the hotels are both commodious and -excellent. - -I may mention that Rhuddlan, St. Asaph, and Denbigh, are within easy -distance from Rhyl, and will afford a pleasant day’s excursion. Quitting -Rhyl, a short ride conveys the traveller to - - - -HOLYWELL, - - -So celebrated for its miraculous spring. The church of this place is -dedicated to Saint Winefred, and stands at the foot of a steep hill, but -it is so far removed from the upper town that the bells cannot be heard -by the people above, for which reason a very ancient custom is continued, -namely, a ringer is employed to go about the town with a large bell slung -around his shoulder, and a cushion fastened to his knees, against which -the bell beats as he walks, to summon the inhabitants to the house of -prayer; but the chief object of interest to visitors in this town is St. -Winefred’s Well, from which it takes its name of Holywell. The Roman -Catholic clergymen of ancient days, knew well how to impose on the -credulity of the ignorant laymen, when they were desirous of enriching -their establishments, as well perhaps as they do at the present period, -and for this purpose they invented amongst other absurd fallacies the -ridiculous fable of St. Winefred, which is carved upon a pendant -projection over the fountain, with the arms of England at the bottom. - - - -ST. WINEFRED. - - -The legend is told thus:—Winefred was a beautiful and devout virgin, of -noble birth, and it is supposed lived in the early part of the seventh -century, under the guardianship of her uncle, the good Bueno, who had -founded a church here, and was conspicuous for his great piety. A young -prince of the country, of the name of Caradoc, saw the damsel, and was -enamoured with the beauty of her person, and resolved to attempt her -virtue; seizing an opportunity, when all but the fair Winefred were at -prayers, he declared to her his passion. She fled from his presence, but -before she could reach the sacred edifice, which stood at the foot of the -hill, even, as at the present day, the prince overtook her, and in a -paroxysm of rage and disappointment, he struck off her head, which -bounded down the hill, through the door of the church, to the foot of the -altar. Bueno raised up the head, and instead of a pool of blood, which -appeared for a moment, a fountain of clear water gushed forth. His -horror was great, when he found that the beautiful features, and golden -hair of the head he gazed upon, were those of his beloved niece. The -saint, for such Bueno afterwards became, took up the head, and with -devout prayers, joined it to the body, and to the wonder of all present -it immediately re-united, the place of separation being marked only by a -white line encircling the neck. The cruel Prince Caradoc fell dead on -the spot where he had committed the atrocious act. Winefred lived -fifteen years after this event, and founded a nunnery at Gwytherin, -Denbighshire, of which she became abbess, and died there. - -The well is an oblong square, about twelve feet by seven, and the water -passes into a small square court, through an arch under which, it is -said, the Roman Catholics used to swim as an act of penance. Innumerable -are the miracles said to have been performed through the intervention of -the saint, and as countless is the list of devotees who have paid their -homage at her holy shrine, standing up to their chins in the water, and -pouring forth their prayers for hours together. - -Putting aside all superstitious notions, the waters of the well possess -many sanative properties. Katherine of Arragon, the wife of Henry the -Eighth, was a benefactress to this building, and here her arms appear, -viz.: three pomegranates in a shield surmounted by a crown, the badge of -the House of Grenada. Isabel, Countess of Warwick, left to St. Winefred, -in 1439, her gown of russet velvet. In the church there is a bell which -was christened in honour of the saint, and at the ceremony a string of -virgins took hold of the rope, bestowed a name upon the bell, whilst the -priest sprinkling holy water baptised it, and put it into petticoats; -after which the ladies gave a grand feast, and made great presents, which -the priests received on behalf of the bell. - -There are several good inns in the town, the principal ones are the White -Horse, the King’s Arms, the King’s Head, and the Red Lion. About a mile -eastward of Holywell, situated in a beautiful meadow, are the ruins of -Basingwerk Abbey, formerly a building of considerable importance. It is -surrounded by groves of tall trees, and commands a fine view of the -Cheshire shore. The next place on the Chester line of railway, to which -the traveller should direct his attention, is - - - -FLINT, - - -At which place his historical recollections will be awakened by the -ancient castle, which is situated upon a rock in the marsh at the bottom -of the town. - -The castle is a square building, with a large round tower at three of the -corners, and a fourth a little disjoined from the others, and much larger -than the rest. This is called the double tower. It was formerly joined -to the castle by a drawbridge, and is of great thickness. Here the -unfortunate Edward the Second received from exile his imperious favourite -Piers Gaveston, and here it was that the equally unfortunate Richard the -Second was betrayed by the Earl of Northumberland into the power of -Bolingbroke. Northumberland had met Richard at Conwy, to which place he -had retired after his return from Ireland, and they were journeying -together when, amid the recesses of the mountains, near Penmaen Rhôs, the -king descried a large body of soldiers with the Percy banners. The -unhappy monarch attempted to escape, but Northumberland seizing the -bridle of his horse, compelled him to proceed towards Rhuddlan Castle, -where they dined, and in the evening conducted him to Flint. Upon the -following morning Richard was astonished by the appearance of a numerous -army, commanded by Bolingbroke, in full march along the sands, which -speedily surrounded the castle. Richard descended from the keep to meet -his rival, who fell upon his knees, and for a short time assumed a -respectful appearance, but he soon discarded the mask, and “with a high -sharp voice,” says Stowe, “badde bring forth the king’s horses; and then -two little naggs, not worth fortie franks, were brought forthe. The king -was set on the one, and the Earl of Salisbury on the other, and thus the -duke brought them from Flint to Chester.” - - - -HAWARDEN - - -Is six miles from Flint, and lying two miles on the right of the Queen’s -Ferry Station; it is a neat and comfortable town, consisting of one -street of about half a mile in length, and wears a cheerful aspect. The -Glynne Arms will receive the visitor, and afford him every attention and -comfort he can possibly desire. Hawarden Park is one of the most -picturesque and beautiful domains in the principality. Its lofty trees -and velvet grass, its swelling knolls and solitary glens, cannot fail to -awaken the most pleasing emotions in the breast of the tourist, while the -ivy-clad ruins of the ancient castle give a solemnity and grandeur to the -scene indescribably interesting. In the year 1280 a general insurrection -took place among the Welsh, under their prince, Llewelyn, and his brother -David, for the recovery of their liberties and ancient form of -government. It was commenced by David, on the 22nd of March, Palm -Sunday, in a stormy night, which favoured his design so well, that he -surprised this castle, put the garrison to the sword, and took Roger De -Clifford, the Justiciary of Chester, prisoner. After the death of -Llewelyn, and the subjugation of Wales, he suffered for this in a most -exemplary manner, being condemned to four species of punishment, viz., to -be drawn by a horse to the place of execution as a traitor to the king -who had made him a knight; to be hanged for murdering Fulk Trigald, and -other knights, in this fortress; for his sacrilege in committing those -murders on Palm Sunday, his bowels were to be burnt, and finally his body -was to be quartered and hung in different parts of the kingdom, because -he had in different parts conspired the death of the king. In 1495 this -castle belonged to Margaret, Countess of Richmond, the mother of Henry -the Seventh, and that monarch honoured it with his presence for some -time, in order that he might here enjoy the pleasures of the chase. -During the civil wars it suffered the usual vicissitudes of fortune. It -was besieged in 1643 by the King’s troops, when it was garrisoned by one -hundred and twenty men of Sir Thomas Myddelton’s regiment. - -The remains of the castle consist of a fine circular tower, or keep, -situated upon the summit of a mount, a few walls, and the foundations of -some rooms. On all sides it was surrounded by deep chasms and fosses, -and from its extensive plan and broad foundations it has the appearance -of having been erected at different periods. The modern mansion of -Hawarden Park belongs to Sir S. R. Glynne, Baronet, a member of -parliament, and lord-lieutenant of Flintshire. It is a stately -structure, with antique-looking windows and turrets, and commands a view -of the city of Chester and the entire course of the silvery Dee from that -station to the Irish Channel. Leaving this most interesting and lovely -place, and casting many a lingering look behind, I once more reached the -railway station, and after a short ride of seven miles, arrived at the -far-famed city of - - - -CHESTER. - - -This city still bears marks of its Roman origin. The laying out of the -streets is Roman; the two principal thoroughfares crossing at right -angles in the centre of the city. Its fortifications are reasonably -supposed to be on a Roman basis. Remains of Roman masonry have been -discovered, and the usual vestiges of the Romans have, at different -times, been turned up—such as coins, fibulæ, inscribed tiles, stones, and -altars. In 1653 a votive altar to Jupiter was dug up, which had been -raised by an officer of the twentieth legion, called the Victorious. In -fact, the city was named in honour of this legion, Legecestria; and after -the Romans ceased to occupy it, the Britons called it Caer Lleon vawr ar -Ddyvrdwy: or, “the camp of the great Legion on the Dee.” In the time of -the Romans Chester was the termination of the celebrated Watling Street, -the great military road which extended from Dover across the island. - -It was in this city that the Welsh, in the year 1300, acknowledged the -sovereignty of the English, the homage of the freeholders being received -by the infant Prince of Wales, afterwards Edward the Second. In the year -1506, Chester was afflicted with that remarkable disease the sweating -sickness, which carried off ninety-one householders in three days; and a -few years afterwards made such ravages that the streets of the city were -overgrown with grass. - -In 1558, a circumstance occurred in Chester which was of the greatest -importance to the Protestants of those days. Dr. Henry Cole, Dean of St. -Paul’s, is said to have been entrusted with the commission issued by Mary -to empower the Lord Deputy of Ireland to prosecute those who refused to -observe the ceremonies of the Roman Catholic religion. The Doctor, on -his way to Ireland, stopped at Chester, and having put up at the Blue -Posts Inn, in Bridge Street, was visited by the Mayor, to whom he -communicated the business in which he was engaged: opening his cloak bag, -he took out a leathern box, observing, with exultation, “he had that -within it, which would lash the heretics of Ireland.” The hostess, Mrs. -Elizabeth Mottershead, overheard this by accident, and, having a brother -in Ireland, who was a Protestant, she became alarmed for his safety, and -took the opportunity, while the Doctor was attending the Mayor down -stairs, to open the box, take out the commission, and leave in its place -a pack of cards, with the knave of clubs uppermost. The Dean arrived in -Ireland on the 7th of December, 1558. Being introduced to the -Lord-Deputy Fitzwalter and the Privy Council, he explained the nature of -his embassy at greater length, and then presented the box, containing, as -he thought, the commission. His Lordship took it, and, having opened it, -beheld, with considerable surprise, the pack of cards with the knave on -the top. The Doctor was thunderstruck; and, in much confusion, said that -he certainly had a commission, and that some artful person must have made -the exchange. “Then,” said his Lordship, “you have nothing to do but to -return to London, and get it renewed: meanwhile we will shuffle the -cards.” The Doctor was obliged to follow this unwelcome advice, but -before he could reach Ireland a second time the Queen died, and her -sanguinary commission became useless. The woman, whose presence of mind -and dexterity had thus providentially interposed, was rewarded by -Elizabeth with a pension of forty pounds a year. - -During the civil war in the reign of Charles the First, Chester stood -several sieges, which lasted about three years. The inhabitants, who had -sided with the king, endured great privations, but at last, when the -siege was converted into a blockade, they surrendered on honourable terms -to the parliamentary army. The city is situated on a dry rock above the -stream of the Dee, which flows round it on two sides. The neighbouring -district is a rich but level plain, presenting, however, some interesting -views from the ancient walls of the town, which form one among the many -remarkable features of Chester. These walls, which are now used as a -healthful and favourite promenade, are especially interesting, as being -the only perfect military work of the kind remaining in England, and the -circuit of them is somewhat more than a mile and three quarters. They -command many interesting prospects, and amongst them may be mentioned the -views towards the forest hills, from the eastern point, towards North -Wales and the Dee from the opposite side, and a fine view of the bridge -and the river, with the surrounding country, from the south-east angle. -At the sides of the walls are the remains of several ancient towers, and -at the north-east angle is one which bears the name of the Phœnix Tower, -remarkable from the circumstance of Charles the First having witnessed a -part of the battle of Rowton Heath, from its leads, in 1645. - -The four principal gates of the city are the terminations of the four -principal streets, named respectively Eastgate Street, Northgate Street, -Bridge Street, and Foregate Street. These four streets, as described by -Pennant, are excavated and sunk many feet beneath the surface. The -carriages are driven far below the level of the kitchens, on a line with -ranges of shops, over which, on each side of the streets, passengers may -walk from end to end, secure from wet or heat, in galleries, (or _rows_, -as they are called,) purloined from the first floor of each house, open -in front, and balustraded. The back courts of all these houses are level -with the rows, but to go into any of these four streets it is necessary -to descend a flight of several steps: the rows certainly form the most -remarkable peculiarity of Chester, and the opinion of Mr. Ormerod is that -they were first erected as galleries from which the citizens might defend -themselves against those sudden inroads of armed cavalry, to which they -were so much exposed in ancient times, in consequence of their position -on the frontier of the English and Welsh. - -The most remarkable feature of Chester is its Cathedral, which was -founded within the site of the Benedictine Abbey of St. Werburgh. It is -a spacious irregular building, composed of the red sandstone of the -country, and was built, or rather rebuilt, during the reigns of Henry the -Sixth, Seventh, and Eighth. In the cloisters, and buildings adjacent, -occur some interesting specimens of Norman architecture, and the early -decorations of the pointed style. The western front, and some other -detached parts, exhibit equally beautiful specimens of the enriched -Gothic, and the space occupied by the entire range of the conventual -buildings furnishes a magnificent idea of the grandeur of the -establishment. - -The old Norman castle was removed in 1790, to make room for the modern -castle, which is, indeed, a noble structure, and contains the county -courts, the gaol, the barracks, and the armoury. The citizens of Chester -were formerly as celebrated as those of Coventry for their dramatic -performances, founded chiefly on scripture history. They are attributed -to one Randall, a monk of Chester Abbey, and are said to have been first -performed between 1268 and 1273. - - * * * * * - -My task is done, and I must now quit this lovely land—never perhaps to -see it more. But let me hope the sketches I have given of its various -charms will induce others to take the path which I have pursued with so -much pleasure. It leads through the most interesting portion of the -country. For the artist, there is an inexhaustible store of beauty. The -geologist and mineralogist will find the lore they thirst for, in almost -every hill and valley, through which they pass. The smoke-dried citizen -may have the London _blacks_ blown from his garments by the healthful -mountain breeze, and drink huge draughts of the pure air until he feels -intoxicated with pleasure, while he is enabled to supply himself cheaply -with a valuable stock of delightful recollections that will enable him, -at any time, to raise a visionary paradise around him—to banish painful -thoughts; for, in fine, pain must give place to pleasure, gloom to -sunshine, and sickness to invigorating health, in the enchanting -principality of NORTH WALES. - - - - -LIST OF FLIES, USED IN NORTH WALES. - - -FEBRUARY. - - -1. Red Fly.—Middle of February, until the middle of October. Fine days. -2. Dark Dun.—Middle of February, and continues through the Season. Fine -days. - - - -MARCH. - - -3. Blue Dun.—Beginning of March to the end of April. Gloomy and wet -days, from 10 to 3. -4. March Brown.—Middle of March, to the end of April. Dark gloomy days, -from 11 to 2. -5. Light Dun.—Beginning of March, and continues through the season. -Gloomy days. -6. Oak, or Down-head Fly.—Middle of March and continues through the -season. Gloomy and wet days. -7. Hofland’s Fancy.—Woodcock’s Wing—brown cinnamon body, red legs, and -two fibres of red hackle for tail. Will do for Tal y Llyn, and if -dressed larger, for Llyn Ogwen. - - - -APRIL. - - -8. Greentail.—Beginning of April for about ten days. Warm bright -mornings from 6 to 11. -9. Gravel Fly.—Latter end of April to end of May. Fine days. -10. Small Stone Fly.—Middle of April to the end of May. All weathers, -and at any time of the day. Does best in smaller brooks, and in rapid -streams in rivers. - - - -MAY. - - -11. Marlow Buzz, or Coch y Bonddu.—All the season, but particularly in -May, June, and July. Gloomy and wet days. -12. May Fly.—All May and June. Gloomy and wet days. -13. Horse Flesh, or the Cabin Fly.—May, June, and July. All weathers. -14. Brook Fly.—The first of May to the latter end of September. Hot -weather. -15. Iron Blue.—About the 7th of May to the middle of June. Will never -kill except the wind is from the North or East. -16. Sand Fly.—About the middle of May, and continues for three months, -all weathers, after 7 at night. -17. Green Drake.—About the 20th of May for 9 or 10 days, from 10 in the -morning until dusk. -18. Gray Drake.—From the 27th or 28th of May, to middle of June, from 6 -or 7 in the evening to sunset. -19. Orl Fly.—Latter end of May to the latter end of June, from 4 o’Clock -in the morning until 7 in the evening. Hot weather. - - - -JUNE AND JULY. - - -20. Red Spinner.—Middle of June to the latter end of August. In the -evenings of very hot days, from seven o’clock, as long as you can see. -21. Hazle Fly.—About the latter end of June for nine or ten days. Wet -and gloomy weather. - - - -AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER. - - -22. Red Ant.—About the 10th or 12th of August, to the latter end of -September. Warm days, from noon until four. -23. Black Ant.—Same in every respect as Red Ant. -24. Little Pale Blue.—Middle of August to the latter end of September, -from 10 in the morning till 3 in the afternoon. Rough cold days. - - - - -INDEX. - - -Aber Glas Lyn, 88. -Ardudwy, Pass of, 65, 71. -Arran Vowddwy, 50. -Arrenig Vawr, 50. -Bala, 51. -Bangor, 128, 129. -Basingwerk Abbey, 139. -Bardsey Island, Bards of, 64. -Barmouth, 60, 62. -Battlefield, 21. -Berwyn Mountains, 29. -Beddgelert, 89. -Bettws y Coed, 106. -Brynkinalt, 25. -Britannia Tubular Bridge, 132. -Butler, Lady, and Miss Ponsonby, 35. -Bwlch Tyddiad, 69. -Cader Idris, 54, 55, 60, 71. -Carnarvon, 133, 134. -Carreg y Gwalch, 107. -Capel Curig, 100. -Car, Jaunting, in Wales, 52. -Cardigan Bay, Scenery and Views of, 78, 79. -Carreg y Saeth, 68. -Cave of Shenkin, 107. -Ceiriog, River of, 24. -„ Vale of the, 29. -Chester, 143–147. -Chirk, 24, 26, 29. -Closs, John, Story of, and Monument, 99. -Conwy, 118, 119–125. -Corwen, 43. -Constantinus, 135. -Constantine, 135. -Cors y gedol Hall, 63. -Cricaeth Castle and Promontory, 78. -Crogen Castle, 28. -Cwm Bychan, Llyn y, 68. -Cwmorddin Pool, 83. -Cynvael Falls, 83. -Dee, Vale of the, 32, 39, 43. -„ Aqueduct and Viaduct, 32. -Dinas Brân, Castell, 39. -Dinas Gortin, 65. -Dinas Gonwy, 126. -Dinas Llyn, 92. -Dolbadarn Castle, 97. -Dolgelley, Vale of, 53–55. -„ Town of, 56. -Dolwyddelan Castle, 101. -Drws y Nant, 53. -Dwyryd, Valley of the River, 82. -Edeyrnion, Vale of, 47. -Edward First, his Wars in Wales, and Strongholds built by, 75, 78, 119, -134. -Einion, Gallantry of Davydd ab Ivan ab, 76. -— Howel ab, 40. -Eliseg, Pillar of, 43. -Festiniog, 83. -Flies used in North Wales, 149. -Flint Castle, 139. -Gelert, Llewelyn’s Hound, 90. -Geirionydd Llyn, Antiquities of, 116. -Glan y Llyn, 53. -Gloddaeth, the Mansion of the Hon. Lloyd Mostyn, 126. -Glossary, Welsh, ix. -Glyndwr, Owen, 43, 44, 56, 59, 75. -Gôch, Owen, his imprisonment, 97. -Gôch, Gruffydd, Tomb of, 114. -Gwydir Castle, 108. -„ Chapel, 111. -Gwynant Llyn, 92. -Gwynedd, Owen, 29, 103. -Hawarden, 141. -Harlech Castle, 74, 75. -Herbert, Sir Richard, 76. -Howel, Coetmore, 114. -Holywell, 136. -Idwal, Llyn, and Cleft of Idwal Du, 103. -Iorwerth, Llewelyn ab, Tomb of, 114. -Kymmer Abbey, 58. -Llan Tegai Parish, 104. -Llandudno, 126. -Llangollen Road Station, 22. -Llanberis Pass, 96. -„ Church, 98. -Llandrillo, Village of, 46. -Llangollen, Vale and Town of, 34, 34. -Llanrwst, 110. -Llewelyn, Prince of Wales, 97, 141. -Lloyd, Griffith, the Rector of Llanrwst, 115. -Llugwy River, 105. -Llyanyrch, Llyn, 83. -Madoc, Port, 84. -Mannod Llyn, 83. -Maentwrog Village, 80. -Mawddach River, 62. -Menai Bridge, 130. -Moel Siabod, 101. -Mortimer, Roger, Earl of Wigmore, 28. -Morwynion, Llyn, 65. -Nannau Park, 59. -Offa’s Dyke, 29. -Ogwen Llyn, and Falls of Benclog, 101, 102. -Orme’s Head, the Great, 126. -Padarn Llyn, 97. -Peris Llyn, 97. -Pedestrians, Fashionable in Wales, 23. -Penrhyn Castle, 129. -Pembroke, William Herbert, Earl of, 76. -Pistyll y Cain, and Falls of the River Mawddach, 58. -Pistyll Rhaiadr, 27. -Pont y Pair, Bridge of the Caldron, 107. -Pwllheli, 64. -Rhaiadr y Wennol, 103. -Rhaiadr y Parc Mawr, 116. -Rhaiadr Du, 58. -Rhys Gôch o’r Eryri, 89. -Rhyl, 136. -Richard the Second, 121, 140. -Scott, Sir Walter, Note to his “Marmion,” 60. -Segontium, 135. -Shrewsbury, 21. -Snowdon and Snowdonia, 92, 94. -Taliesin, the Bard’s Abode, 116. -Tan y Bwlch, 82. -Tegid, Llyn, 50. -Tevi, River, 102. -Tommen y Bala, 51. -Traeth Mawr, and Traeth Bâch, Arms of the Sea, 78. -Trevriew, Village of, 117. -Tremadoc, the Town of, 86. -Trivaen, the Crags of, 103. -Trout Fishing in Wales, 19, 58, 83, 95, 149. -Tudor Trevor, Family of, 25, 40. -Tudno, St., Cradle of, 127. -Valle Crucis Abbey, 40. -Vortigern’s Hill, 91. -Wellington, Duke of, 25. -Winefred’s Well & Legend, 137. -Wnion, the, River of, 54. -Wynne, Account of the family, 111. - - * * * * * - - JOHN MORGAN; PRINTER, OSWESTRY. - - - - -MAP OF NORTH WALES. - - -[The book contains a large folding map of North Wales, which the -transcriber could not scan as a single piece. It’s produced as four -parts below.—DP.] - - - -NORTH WEST NORTH WALES. - - - [Picture: Map of North Wales, North-West] - - - -NORTH EAST NORTH WALES. - - - [Picture: Map of North Wales, North-West] - - - -SOUTH WEST NORTH WALES. - - - [Picture: Map of North Wales, South-West] - - - -SOUTH EAST NORTH WALES. - - - [Picture: Map of North Wales, South-East] - - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE TOURIST'S GUIDE THROUGH NORTH -WALES*** - - -******* This file should be named 64195-0.txt or 64195-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/4/1/9/64195 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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