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-The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Tourist's Guide through North Wales, by
-George John Bennett, Illustrated by Alfred Clint
-
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions 
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at 
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-
-Title: The Tourist's Guide through North Wales
-
-
-Author: George John Bennett
-
-
-
-Release Date: January 1, 2021  [eBook #64195]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-
-***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE TOURIST'S GUIDE THROUGH NORTH
-WALES***
-
-
-Transcribed from the 1853 Whittaker and Co. edition by David Price.
-
-                          [Picture: Llangollen]
-
-
-
-
-
-                                   THE
-                                TOURIST’S
-                        GUIDE THROUGH NORTH WALES.
-
-
-                                    BY
-                              G. J. BENNETT.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-                       WITH ETCHINGS, BY A. CLINT.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-                                 London:
-                    WHITTAKER AND CO., AVE MARIA LANE.
-             G. PHILIP & SON, LIVERPOOL; J. MORGAN, OSWESTRY.
-                                  1853.
-
-
-
-
-ILLUSTRATIONS.
-
-     1  Llangollen                                  facing Title Page.
-     2  Chirk Castle                                                26
-     3  Font in the Grounds of Plâs Newydd                          35
-     4  Castell Dinas Brân                                          39
-     5  Valle Crucis Abbey                                          40
-     6  Pillar of Eliseg                                            42
-     7  Bala Lake                                                   50
-     8  Cader Idris, from the Bala Road                             54
-     9  Parliament House of Owen Glyndwr                            56
-    10  View from Carreg y Saeth                                    68
-    11  Harlech Castle                                              75
-    12  The Vale of Maentwrog                                       79
-    13  The Raven Fall, near Maentwrog                              83
-    14  Pont Aber Glaslyn                                           88
-    15  Snowdon, from the Pass of Llyn                              92
-        Gwynant
-    16  Pass of Llanberis                                           96
-    17  The Coffin of Leolinus Magnus                              114
-    18  Conwy Castle                                               119
-
-
-
-
-PREFACE.
-
-
-THE Author’s object in offering to the Public the following pages is,
-that all who have a desire to examine the beauties of Welsh scenery may
-also have an opportunity of seeing the most _interesting_ portion of it
-in a tour which will not occupy more than a month.  The route described
-in this volume presents a variety of pictures which can scarcely be
-equalled, and certainly not surpassed, in any quarter of the globe.  It
-is true there are hills higher far than any in Snowdonia, and valleys
-more extensive; but, while we are astonished at a description of the
-enormous magnitude of the Asiatic and American mountains, and the noble
-rivers, and sea-like lakes of the latter, let us take into our
-consideration which is the most desirable country to explore; that in
-which nature’s prodigies are so extensive that we can neither ascend the
-eminences, ford the rivers, nor view the opposite shores of the extensive
-lakes; or _that_ where mountains may be scaled with ease, from the
-summits of which a series of glorious panoramas burst upon the
-eye,—wherein the valleys, glens, and wild ravines present an endless
-variety of sublimity and beauty, and the loud torrent and the waterfall
-pour forth their melody of never-tiring sweetness, to delight the ear?
-
-Seas must be crossed, and miles of dreary and uninteresting country
-traversed, in wandering from one grand object to another in the _former_;
-while, in the route here represented to the Public—within the reach of
-all—repose and admiration charm the heart by turns, in the rich fertile
-valleys, lofty and wood-clad hills, or heather-mantled mountains, of
-North Wales.  The traveller is likewise insured the comfort of a good
-inn, where he may rest his wearied limbs after a day’s ramble in whatever
-part of the district he chooses to select for his excursion; and the
-healthy and active should decidedly make _use_ of their _limbs_, to bear
-them through this tour, in preference to the more easy and luxurious
-vehicle, and even to the equestrian mode of conveyance.  A good
-horsewoman may venture into the dark defiles, or climb the craggy heights
-upon the ponies, which are always in readiness at the inns for that
-purpose; but between a man and his steed there will most assuredly be a
-strong feeling of sympathy created by a conviction that the one is a most
-unnecessary burthen to the other.
-
-The peasantry are simple, honest, and obliging; and, as they trudge
-along, a spirit of freedom sparkles in their eyes, and seems to animate
-every action of their unfettered limbs.  Though their fare is humble,
-they enjoy it with an appetite to which the bracing air of their hills,
-and their happy ignorance of luxuries, gives an enviable zest.
-Drunkenness is a vice almost unknown among these primitive mountaineers:
-milk is their common beverage, oatmeal cakes, and potatoes, with a
-plentiful supply of trout from their native streams, form their chief
-summer food; while, in winter, dry salted beef and mutton serve to
-satisfy their utmost wishes.
-
-    “Though poor the peasant’s hut, his feasts tho’ small,
-    He sees his little lot the lot of all.
-
-                                   * * * *
-
-    Dear is that shed to which his soul conforms,
-    And dear that hill which lifts him to the storms.
-    And, as a child, when scaring sounds molest,
-    Clings close and closer to the mother’s breast,
-    So the loud torrent, and the whirlwind’s roar,
-    But bind him to his native mountains more.”
-
-
-
-
-DIRECTIONS
-TO THOSE UNACQUAINTED WITH THE WELSH LANGUAGE.
-
-
-A knowledge of the Welsh alphabet is indispensable to those who are
-desirous of correctly pronouncing the necessary questions and answers
-that transpire upon the road.  The names of places must effectually
-puzzle any tourist, who is not acquainted with the peculiar sound of each
-letter particularly where there are many consonants in a word.  In order,
-therefore, to aid the traveller in Wales, I have selected the following
-rules.
-
-In the Welsh alphabet there are no mutes; and all letters that are
-circumflex must be pronounced long, as
-
-Bôn like the English bone.
-Bin, as been.
-C, always as K in English.
-Ch, is pronounced as the Greek _Χ_.
-Dd, as the English th in this, that, thou.
-F, as V in English.
-Ff as F and double F in English.
-G, as G in good, but never soft as in genial.
-I, as I in king, but never as in fire.
-Ll, as L aspirated.
-Th, as in thought.
-U, as I in the English words bliss, kiss, &c.
-W, as double O in good, wood.
-Y, as U in burn; but in the last syllable of a word, and in all
-monosyllables except Y, Ydd, Ym, Yn, Yr, Ys, Fy, Dy, Myn, it is like I in
-Sin.
-
-By attending to these rules, the stranger will easily make himself
-understood by the peasantry, and on his tours, in enquiring for any place
-to which he may be journeying.
-
-
-
-
-GLOSSARY.
-
-
-_Ab_, (or _Ap_,) the son of.
-_Aber_, the junction of a river with the sea.
-_Allt_, a hill; a mutation of _gallt_.
-_Annedd_, a dwelling place.
-_Am_, about.
-_Ar_, upon.  _Arvon_, bordering upon _Môn_, or Anglesey.
-_Ardal_, a region.
-_Argae_, an embankment.
-_Avon_, a river.
-_Bâch_, little; when joined to a substantive feminine, it is written
-_vâch_.
-_Bala_, an outlet.
-_Ban_, high, lofty.  Plur. _banau_, heights, or eminences.
-_Banc_, a bank.
-_Bâs_, shallow.
-_Bedd_, a grave.
-_Blaen_, a point, upper end, or extremity.
-_Bôd_, an abode, residence, habitation.
-_Bôn_, the base.
-_Braenar_, fallow land.
-_Braich_, an arm.
-_Brîg_, top, summit.
-_Brîth_, speckled, mottled.
-_Bron_, a breast, the slope of a hill.
-_Bryn_, a hill, or mount.  Pl. _bryniau_.
-_Buwch_, a cow.
-_Bwlch_, a pass, or defile.  Pl. _bylchau_.
-_Câd_, battle, war.
-_Cader_, a chair.
-_Cae_, a field.  Pl. _caeau_.
-_Caer_, a fortress, or fortified town.
-_Cantrev_, a district containing 100 townships.  A canton, a hundred.
-_Capel_, a chapel.
-_Careg_, a stone.  Pl. _ceryg_.
-_Carn_, a heap of stones.  The hoof of a horse.
-_Carnedd_, a heap of stones.  Pl. _carneddau_.
-_Castell_, a castle.  Pl. _cestyll_.
-_Ceulan_, bank of a river.
-_Cevn_, the bank, ridge of a hill.
-_Cîl_, a recess.  _Cilvach_, a small recess.
-_Clawdd_, a hedge, dyke.  _Clawdd Offa_, Offa’s dyke.
-_Clogwyn_, a precipice.
-_Côch_, red.
-_Coed_, trees.  Sing. _coeden_, a tree.
-_Côr_, a circle, a choir.  _Bangor_, high choir.
-_Corlan_, a sheepfold.
-_Cors_, a bog, or fen.
-_Craig_, a rock, a crag.  Pl. _creigiau_.
-_Croes_, a cross.
-_Crug_, a hillock.  Pl. _crugion_.
-_Cwm_, a valley, dingle, glen.
-_Cymmer_, the junction of two rivers.
-_Dau_, two.
-_Dehau_, south, the right side.
-_Din_, _dinas_, a city, a fort, a fortified place on a hill.
-_Dôl_, a meadow.
-_Drws_, a doorway.
-_Du_, black; hence _dwrdu_, the river Dee; literally, Black-water.
-_Dwy_, two. (fem.)
-_Dwr_, or _dwvr_, water.  Pl. _dyvroedd_.
-_Eglwys_, a church.
-_Erw_, an acre.
-_Esgair_, a leg, a long ridge of mountain.
-_Fordd_, a road.
-_Fynnon_, a fountain, a well.
-_Gaer_, a mutation of _caer_, as _y gaer_, the fortress.
-_Gallt_, a hill; in construction, _allt_.
-_Gardd_, a garden.
-_Garth_, a promontory.
-_Gelli_, a grove of hazels.
-_Glan_, the brink, bank; _glan y môr_, the sea side.
-_Glâs_, blue, grey, green.
-_Glyn_, a glen.
-_Gorsav_, a station, stand.
-_Grug_, heath.
-_Gwaelod_, a bottom.
-_Gwaen_, a large plain.
-_Gwern_, watery meadow.  Alder.
-_Gwydd_, wood.
-_Gwyn_, white.  Fem. _gwen_, _wen_.
-_Gwyrdd_, green.  Fem. _gwerdd_, _werdd_.
-_Havod_, a summer dwelling.
-_Hen_, old.  _Hendre_, old mansion.
-_Heol_, a street.
-_Hir_, long.
-_Iâl_, open country.
-_Is_, lower.  _Isav_, lowest.
-_Llain_, a long piece.
-_Llan_, a church; a village with a church.
-_Llawr_, a floor.
-_Llech_, a flat stone, slate, slab.
-_Lluest_, an encampment.
-_Llwyd_, grey, hoary.
-_Llwyn_, a grove, a bush, a copse.
-_Llyn_, a lake, pool.
-_Llys_, a court, a palace.
-_Maen_, a stone.  Pl. _meini_.
-_Maenor_, a manor.
-_Maes_, an open field.
-_Mall_, bad, rotten.
-_Man_, a place.
-_Mawn_, peat.  _Mawnog_, a turbary.
-_Mawr_, great, large.
-_Melin_, a mill.
-_Melyn_, yellow.
-_Merthyr_, a martyr.
-_Moel_, bald, bare; a bare hill.
-_Môn_, Anglesey.
-_Môr_, the sea.
-_Morva_, a marsh.
-_Mynach_, a monk.
-_Mynydd_, a mountain.
-_Nant_, a brook, ravine, glen.
-_Neuadd_, a hall.
-_Newydd_, new.
-_Ochr_, a side.
-_Pant_, a hollow.
-_Parth_, a division, a part.
-_Pen_, a head.
-_Penmaen_, a promontory, a rocky head.
-_Penrhyn_, a promontory, a cape.
-_Pentrev_, a village, a hamlet.
-_Perth_, a brake, a thornbush.
-_Pistyll_, a spout of water.
-_Plâs_, a mansion, a hall.
-_Plwyv_, a parish.
-_Pont_, a bridge.
-_Porth_, a gate, a ferry.
-_Pwll_, a pit, a pool.
-_Rhaiadr_, a cataract, a waterfall.
-_Rhiw_, a slope.
-_Rhôs_, a moor.
-_Rhudd_, crimson, ruddy.
-_Rhyd_, a ford.  _Rhydycroesau_, the ford of the Crosses.
-_Sarn_, a causeway.
-_Serth_, steep, abrupt.
-_Swydd_, an office, a county.
-_Tal_, the head or front.  _Talcen_, the forehead.
-_Tan_, under.
-_Tervyn_, the boundary.
-_Tir_, the earth.
-_Tommen_, a tumulus.
-_Traeth_, a sand.
-_Trev_, a town.
-_Tri_, three.
-_Troed_, a foot.  Pl. _traed_, feet.
-_Trwyn_, a nose.
-_Twr_, a tower.
-_Ty_, a house.  Pl. _Tai_, houses.
-_Tyddyn_, a farm.
-_Tywyn_, a strand, a sandy shore.
-_Uchav_, highest.
-_Uwch_, higher.
-_Y_, the.
-_Yn_, in.
-_Ynys_, an island.
-_Yspytty_, a hospital.
-_Ystlys_, the side, the flank.
-_Ystrad_, a flat, a vale.
-_Ystum_, a bend.
-_Ystwyth_, flexible.
-
-
-
-
-THE ROUTE.
-
-              ROUTE.                  MILES.        OBSERVATIONS.
-From LONDON to SHREWSBURY, thence          154  _Objects of
-to                                              Interest_.—Castle,
-                                                Abbey, Lord Hill’s
-                                                Column, Quarry Walk,
-                                                and Town Hall.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Station_.—The Severn.
-
-                                                _Hotels_.—The Lion,
-                                                Raven, Raven and
-                                                Bell, and Crown.
-CHIRK                                       22  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—The
-                                                Castle, Brynkinalt,
-                                                Viaduct, Aqueduct,
-                                                and Vale.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Station_.—The
-                                                Ceiriog.
-
-                                                _Hotel_.—The Chirk
-                                                Castle Arms.
-LLANGOLLEN                                   7  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—Church,
-                                                Plâs Newydd, Castle
-                                                Dinas Brân, Valle
-                                                Crucis Abbey, Pillar
-                                                of Eliseg, Aqueduct
-                                                and Viaduct.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Stations_.—The Dee,
-                                                to Corwen or Overton.
-
-                                                _Hotels_.—The Hand,
-                                                Royal Hotel, and
-                                                Ponsonby Arms.
-CORWEN                                      10  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—The
-                                                Church, Cross,
-                                                Glyndwr’s Seat, Vale
-                                                of Edeyrnion.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Stations_.—Between
-                                                Corwen and
-                                                Llansaintffraid
-                                                bridge.
-
-                                                _Hotel_.—The Owen
-                                                Glyndwr.
-LLANDRILLO                                   6  _Hotel_.—White Lion.
-BALA                                         6  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—The Lake,
-                                                Aran Vawddwy, Arenig
-                                                Vawr, Arenig Vâch.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Stations_.—Bala Lake,
-                                                River Dee, Treweryn,
-                                                &c.
-
-                                                _Hotels_.—White Lion
-                                                and Bull’s Head.
-DOLGELLEY                                   18  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—Nannau
-                                                Park, Kymmer Abbey,
-                                                County Gaol,
-                                                Parliament House of
-                                                Owen Glyndwr, Pistyll
-                                                Cain, Rhaiadr
-                                                Mawddach, and
-                                                Dolymelynllyn.
-                                                Llanvachreth
-                                                Waterfall.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Stations_.—Mawddach,
-                                                River Wnion, Llyn
-                                                Cregynan, S.W. 4
-                                                miles, Llyn-y-Gader,
-                                                1½ m., Llyn Geirw, 5
-                                                m., Tal-y-llyn, on
-                                                Cader Idris, 6 m.
-
-                                                _Hotels_.—Golden
-                                                Lion, Angel, & Ship.
-BARMOUTH                                    10  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—Old Town,
-                                                Sarn Badrig,
-                                                Cors-y-gedol.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Stations_.—Llyn
-                                                Raithlyn, nr.
-                                                Trawsvynydd, Arthog
-                                                Chapel, 3 m. distant,
-                                                Llyn Bodlyn, 4 miles
-                                                from Barmouth, Llyn
-                                                Irddyn and Llyn
-                                                Geirw, near the town.
-
-                                                _Hotel_.—Cors-y-gedol
-                                                Arms.
-HARLECH                                     10  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—The
-                                                Castle, Cwm Bychan,
-                                                Cromlech, 2 m. S. in
-                                                a farm called Gwern
-                                                Einion; Druidical
-                                                Circle between the
-                                                farm and Harlech.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Stations_.—
-                                                Llanvihangel, on
-                                                Dwyryd, 5 m.;
-                                                Llanbedr on the
-                                                Artro, 3 m.;
-                                                Llyn-y-Vedw, Llyn
-                                                Eiddew, Gloywlyn;
-                                                Llyn y Cwm Bychan,
-                                                Llyn Trewyn.
-
-                                                _Hotel_.—The Blue
-                                                Lion.
-MAENTWROG                                   10  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—Tan-y-
-                                                Bwlch, Slate
-                                                Quarries, 5 m.;
-                                                Rhaiadr Du and Raven
-                                                Fall, 2 m.;
-                                                Festiniog, 3 m.;
-                                                Falls of Cynvael,
-                                                Roman Encampment
-                                                (Tommen-y-Mur), 3 m.
-                                                from Festiniog.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Stations_.—Llyn
-                                                Llenyrch, 3½ m. (good
-                                                trout); Cwmmorthin
-                                                Lake (in the Pass of
-                                                Cwmmorthin) 4½ m.;
-                                                Llyn-y-Manod, 6 m.
-                                                (large trout);
-                                                Llyn-y-Morwynion, 6
-                                                m.; Llyn Tecwyn, 3
-                                                m.; Llyn Conwy, Llyn
-                                                Garw.
-
-                                                _Hotels_.—Maentwrog
-                                                Inn, Oakley Arms.  At
-                                                Festiniog, Pengwern
-                                                Arms.
-TREMADOC                                   10½  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—The
-                                                Breakwater at Port
-                                                Madoc; Church.
-
-                                                _Angling Station_.—At
-                                                Tremadoc.
-
-                                                _Hotel_.—Madoc Arms.
-BEDDGELERT                                 10½  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—Pont Aber
-                                                Glaslyn, Gelert’s
-                                                Grave, Chair of Rhys
-                                                Gôch o’r Eryri.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Stations_.—Nant
-                                                Gwynnant, Llyn Dinas,
-                                                Cwm Llan, Llyn
-                                                Gwynnant, Llyn
-                                                Llydaw, Pont Aber
-                                                Glaslyn.
-
-                                                _Hotel_.—The Goat.
-LLANBERIS                                   14  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—Dolbadarn
-                                                Castle, Church, Tomb
-                                                of Little John Closs,
-                                                Well of St. Peris,
-                                                Lakes, Pass.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Stations_.—Upper and
-                                                Lower Lakes (bad
-                                                sport), Llyn Cwm
-                                                Dwythog, 2 m.; Llyn
-                                                Llydaw (on Snowdon),
-                                                5 m.; Glaslyn, on the
-                                                west of Snowdon.
-
-                                                _Hotels_.—Victoria
-                                                and Snowdonia.
-CAPEL CURIG                                 10  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—Rhaiadr-y-
-                                                Wennol Waterfall,
-                                                Moel-Siabod,
-                                                Dolwyddelan Castle, 5
-                                                m.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Stations_.—Same as
-                                                above.
-
-                                                _Hotel_.—Capel Curig
-                                                Inn.
-BETTWS-Y-COED                                5  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—Pont-y-
-                                                Pair, Shenkin’s Cave,
-                                                Church, Monument to
-                                                Davydd Gôch.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Stations_.—Lake
-                                                Ogwen, Nant Francon,
-                                                Llyn Idwal, River
-                                                Llugwy.
-LLANRWST                                     5  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—The
-                                                Bridge, Gwydir
-                                                Castle, Church,
-                                                Gwydir Chapel.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Stations_.—Bettws-y-
-                                                Coed, 3 m.; Trevriw,
-                                                2½ m.; Dolgarrog, 4
-                                                m.; Llanbedr, 5 m.;
-                                                Dolwyddelan, 8 m.;
-                                                Tal-y-Llyn, and Llyn
-                                                Cravnant, near
-                                                Llanrwst.
-
-                                                _Hotel_.—The Eagles.
-CONWY                                       12  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—The
-                                                Castle, Church,
-                                                Curious Monuments,
-                                                Plâs Mawr, Ormshead,
-                                                Suspension and
-                                                Tubular Bridges.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Stations_.—Same as
-                                                above.
-
-                                                _Hotels_.—Castle &
-                                                Newborough Arms.
-BANGOR                                       9  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—Penrhyn
-                                                Castle, Slate
-                                                Quarries, Britannia
-                                                Tubular Bridge, Menai
-                                                Bridge, Beaumaris,
-                                                Castle, Penmon
-                                                Monastery, Plas
-                                                Newydd, Baron Hill,
-                                                Puffin Island, and
-                                                the Cathedral.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Stations_.—Llyn
-                                                Ogwen, Llyn Idwal,
-                                                and Ogwen River.
-
-                                                _Hotels_.—The Penrhyn
-                                                Arms, Castle,
-                                                Liverpool Arms, and
-                                                Albion.
-CARNARVON                                    8  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—The
-                                                Castle, the Harbour,
-                                                and Ruins of
-                                                Segontium, at
-                                                Llanbeblig.
-
-                                                _Hotels_.—Uxbridge
-                                                Arms, Castle, and
-                                                Sportsman.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Stations_.—The
-                                                Seiont, Pont Newydd.
-_And back to Bangor_                         8
-ABERGELE                                   25¼  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—Kinmel
-                                                Park, Gwrych Castle.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Stations_.—Elwy,
-                                                Aled.
-
-                                                _Hotel_.—Bee.
-RHYL                                        4¼  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—A _detour_
-                                                viâ Rhuddlan, 2 m.,
-                                                St. Asaph, 3½,
-                                                Denbigh, 6, affords a
-                                                pleasant day’s
-                                                excursion.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Stations_.—Clwyd and
-                                                Elwy.
-
-                                                _Hotels_.—Belvoir,
-                                                Royal, Mostyn Arms.
-HOLYWELL                                    13  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—St.
-                                                Winefred’s Well,
-                                                Basingwerk.
-
-                                                _Hotels_.—White
-                                                Horse, King’s Arms,
-                                                King’s Head, Red
-                                                Lion.
-FLINT                                        5  _Object of
-                                                Interest_.—The
-                                                Castle.
-
-                                                _Hotels_.—Royal Oak,
-                                                Ship.
-HAWARDEN                                    7½  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—Castle and
-                                                Park.
-
-                                                _Hotel_.—Glynne Arms.
-CHESTER                                      7  _Objects of
-                                                Interest_.—The Castle
-                                                and Armory, the
-                                                Walls, Rows,
-                                                Cathedral, Old Houses
-                                                in Watergate Street,
-                                                Underground Chapel in
-                                                Bridge Street, and
-                                                the Ancient Residence
-                                                of the Earls of
-                                                Derby.
-
-                                                _Angling
-                                                Station_.—The Dee.
-
-                                                _Hotels_.—Royal,
-                                                Albion, Feathers,
-                                                White Lion, Green
-                                                Dragon, Blossoms,
-                                                Hop-pole.
-
-
-
-
-FIVE DAYS’ EXCURSION FROM CHESTER OR SHREWSBURY.
-
-
-FIRST DAY.—Chester or Shrewsbury to Llangollen Road Station by rail, 20
-miles; Llangollen, 5 m; Corwen, 10 m.
-SECOND DAY.—Bettws y Coed, 22½ m; Llanrwst, 5 m; Capel Curig, 10 m.
-THIRD DAY.—Llanberis, 10 m; Dolbadarn Castle and back, 4 m; Beddgelert,
-12 m; Pont Aber Glaslyn and back, 3 m; Carnarvon, 13 m.
-FOURTH DAY.—Bangor, 8 m; Plas Newydd, 5 m; Beaumaris, 6½ m.
-FIFTH DAY.—Conwy, 14¼ m; Llandudno, Orme’s Head, back to Conwy, 10; and
-per rail to Chester, 45½ m.
-
-
-
-
-NINE DAYS’ EXCURSION FROM CHESTER.
-
-
-FIRST DAY.—Chester to Hawarden, 7 m; Flint, 7 m; Holywell, 5 m.
-SECOND DAY.—Rhyl, 13½ m; Rhuddlan, 2 m; St. Asaph, 3½ m; Denbigh, 6 m.
-THIRD DAY.—Abergele, 13 m; Conwy, 11 m.; Llandudno and back, 10 m.
-FOURTH DAY.—Bangor, 14½ m.; Plas Newydd, 5 m; Beaumaris, 6 m.  (See
-Bridges.)
-FIFTH DAY.—Holyhead and back, 50 m; Carnarvon, 8.
-SIXTH DAY.—Beddgelert, 13 m; Pont Aber Glaslyn and back, 3 m; Llanberis,
-12 m; Dolbadarn and back, 4 m.
-SEVENTH DAY.—Capel Curig, 10 m.; Rhaiadr y Wennol, 3½ m.; Bettws y Coed,
-1½ m; Llanrwst, 5 m.
-EIGHTH DAY.—Corwen, 26 m; Llangollen, 10 m.  (See Valle Crucis Abbey,
-Castell Dinas Brân, and Plâs Newydd.)
-NINTH DAY.—Pont y Cysylltau Aqueduct, 3 m; Chirk, 3 m; (see Chirk Castle
-and Brynkinalt;) Ruabon, 6; (see Wynnstay); Wrexham, 4½; Chester, 12 m.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-*** For objects of interest, angling stations, and hotels, see first
-Route.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER I.
-
-
-Preliminary Observations.—Preparations for a Tour.—Rail to
-Shrewsbury.—Battlefield Church.—Chirk.—The Castle.—Brynkinalt.—Viaducts
-and Aqueducts.—A Delightful Walk.—Llangollen.
-
-    “Like brethren now do Welshmen still agree
-    In as much love as any men alive;
-    The friendship there and concord that I see
-    I doe compare to bees in honey hive,
-    Which keep in swarme, and hold together still,
-    Yet gladly showe to stranger great good will;
-    A courteous kinde of love in every place
-    A man may finde, in simple people’s face.”
-
-                                                               CHURCHYARD.
-
-VARIOUS, as the features of human nature, are the sources of human
-happiness.  Some derive their choicest pleasure from historical accounts
-of men who lived in by-gone ages, and in re-creating events that have
-long since been engulphed in the abyss of time,—breaking down the barrier
-of intervening years, and mingling, in idea, with those who were once
-deemed the glorious of the earth, who now lie blended with its grossest
-atoms, or are confounded with the purer elements.  Some, parching with
-the thirst of knowledge, seek to slake the fever of their minds with most
-laborious research; explore the utmost regions of the globe to find a
-shorter marine passage; or pierce into its depths to seek for treasures
-which only exist in their heated fancies.  The vast ocean is fathomed to
-satisfy the ruling principle of their natures,—curiosity; and the realms
-of air traversed with the same motive to insure the universally desired
-result, self-gratification.  While some, leaving the elements to perform
-the destined changes, are willing to agree with the poet, who in the
-warmth of his philanthropy exclaims:
-
-    “The proper study of mankind is man;”
-
-and among this class of beings the author of these pages may be ranked,
-although he willingly confesses nature has the power of charming him in
-her most minute as in her most stupendous works, from the curious and
-confined instinct of the ant and of the bee to the wonderful and
-exhaustless energies of the human mind,
-
-                “That source
-    Whence learning, virtue, wisdom, all things flow.”
-
-The court, the city, and the country, present an endless variety of
-subjects for contemplation; and the latter being the region of delight to
-those whose business confines them to the metropolis for the winter
-months, the author of this volume is anxious to be thought a useful and
-amusing companion to such tourists who, in pursuit of health and the
-charms of nature, may wander
-
-    “In the Welsh vales ’mid mountains high.”
-
-where the sublime and beautiful present themselves at every turn to
-captivate the eye, and ruddy health colours the smiling faces of every
-peasant girl and shepherd boy, from Chirk to Holyhead.
-
-To a mind capable of estimating fine scenery, how delightful are the
-hurry and bustle which usually take place on the morning of departure, in
-fond expectation of realizing the anticipated pleasure of viewing those
-beauties of nature the imagination has but weakly painted!  The sun is
-scarcely sooner up than the traveller; and, although, perhaps, it is yet
-three hours to the time of departure, his anxiety preponderates over the
-now slighted comforts of his bed of down, and with an agile leap he quits
-his restless pillow, and hastily despatching the business of his toilet,
-with his heart beating high, and his knapsack already stuffed with three
-shirts, as many pairs of stockings, guide books, and as few other
-necessaries as may be, in order to make his walking wardrobe as light as
-possible, he prepares to take the road.  If a disciple of old Izaac
-Walton and Cotton, he will not fail to have his book of flies, lines,
-reels, &c., and a light fly-rod to carry in his hand, and for which he is
-sure to have use whenever he feels inclined for piscatory pastime on his
-tour.  So stocked and provided, he bids defiance to the evils of life;
-and may exclaim with the poet
-
-    “Warly cares and warly men
-    May a’ gae tapsalteeree O!”
-
-“The cab is at the door, Sir.”
-
-“Very good.”
-
-“Is everything I want put into it?”
-
-“Yes, Sir.”
-
-“Well, good-bye!”
-
-“Now, my man, drive to Euston-square Station.”
-
-“All right, Sir.”  And away we went,
-
-What a scene of bustle and confusion a metropolitan railway station
-presents a few minutes before the starting of a train, and more
-especially in holiday time.  Men, women, and children, in every
-direction, hurriedly traversing the crowded platform; luggage barrows,
-with porters, rushing to and fro; newspaper venders bawling “_Times_!
-_Chronicle_!  _Punch_!”  Cabs galloping into the yard with anxious
-passengers; others, after having deposited their living burthens, slowly
-quitting it; the crowd of persons pressing forward for their tickets,
-jamming and jostling each other, as if the existence of each individual
-depended upon his or her obtaining that necessary passport.  At length
-all are supplied and seated in their various carriages.  Phiz! goes the
-steam, and the train slowly and majestically quits the station, gathering
-fresh speed in its progress, until the travellers find themselves whirled
-along at the rate of thirty or forty miles an hour; station after station
-appear and disappear like the lightning flash of a summer’s cloud—
-
-    “A moment bright, then lost for ever,”
-
-and in the short space of a few hours the journey to Shrewsbury is
-accomplished.
-
-
-
-BATTLEFIELD.
-
-
-Within two miles of Shrewsbury, and nearly the same distance from the
-railway, upon the right of the line, the traveller will behold
-Battlefield Church, built by Henry the Fourth to commemorate the
-celebrated Battle of Shrewsbury, which, like that of Bosworth, has been
-immortalised by the magic pen of Shakspere.  Who cannot call to
-remembrance the gallant and fiery Hotspur, or the future Hero of
-Agincourt?—“Young Harry with his beaver on,”—and last, not least, fat
-Jack Falstaff, his humourous catechism upon “Honour;” with whom
-discretion was the better part of valour, notwithstanding his “long
-hour’s fight by Shrewsbury clock?”  Here, covered with wounds, the
-ambitious Hotspur fell, and his dead body, which had been buried on the
-field, was unearthed, and barbarously bruised between two millstones, and
-afterwards beheaded and quartered.
-
-
-
-SHREWSBURY.
-
-
-The old town of Shrewsbury contains many objects of considerable interest
-and historical association, which will afford to the antiquary or the
-curious abundant gratification for the few hours he may devote to them.
-Those to which the traveller should in particular direct his attention
-are the Castle, the Abbey, and St. Giles’s Church; the two former were
-built by the first Norman Earl of Shrewsbury, Roger de Montgomery.
-
-The town is beautifully situated on the Severn, on a peninsula made by
-the bend of the river; and, standing upon gentle eminences, it presents a
-bold and commanding appearance.  Upon the west side of the town,
-stretching along upon the banks of the river, and over-arched with
-magnificent lime trees, is a most delightful promenade—called the Quarry.
-
-Having stayed the night in Shrewsbury, the following morning I once more
-placed myself in a railway carriage for a short ride upon the line to
-Chirk, at which place I had made up my mind to commence my pedestrian
-tour.  I think it necessary, however, to impress upon the minds of
-tourists that the Llangollen Road Station (which is a mile beyond Chirk)
-is unquestionably the key upon this side of the country to the very heart
-of the finest scenery in Wales, and that from thence he can obtain public
-conveyances which run daily to Capel Curig, Snowdon, Bala, Barmouth,
-Dolgelley, and a hundred other enchanting places in the Principality.
-
-Arriving at Chirk Station, I, like the Honourable Dick Dowlas, with my
-wardrobe on my back, and a light heart, proceeded on the road to the
-village.  Bees hummed, birds sang, and blossoms sent forth their
-fragrance, to delight the traveller as he gaily trudged “the footpath
-way.”  Cheerfulness was above, beneath, and around me, and in my heart.
-I had not taken many paces when I was accosted by an elderly person, in a
-straw hat, fustian shooting coat, knee breeches, gaiters, and shoes, he
-had a stout cudgel in his hand, and knapsack more capacious than mine
-strapped over his shoulders.  He appeared to be about fifty-five years of
-age, and being furnished like myself, it struck me that a passing
-traveller might naturally take us for father and son.
-
-Fortunately, we were pursuing the same route, and a desultory dialogue
-commenced with the never-failing observation—
-
-“A fine morning, Sir.”
-
-“Very.”
-
-“A great admirer of the charms of nature, I presume?”
-
-“An enthusiastic one.”
-
-“You’re for the Welsh vales, I suppose?”
-
-“And mountains high,” I exclaimed, warming to my loquacious companion—
-
-    “In the Welsh vales ’mid mountains high,”
-
-sang he, in a round-toned voice, with which I chimed in, and we were the
-best friends on a sudden.
-
-There certainly is no society so interesting as that picked up by the
-tourist, who leaves with contempt the starched formalities of a great
-city behind him, and walks forth unencumbered by care, to enjoy the
-society of mankind in its varied and unsophisticated nature.  Every
-person we meet affords us information and delight; for a kindred spirit
-animates almost every individual whom you may chance to encounter in
-countries remarkable for beauties of scenery, and especially in a region
-like North Wales, where inns of the best kind are situated at the most
-convenient points, and the foot passenger is treated with as much respect
-as a lord in his carriage.  The landlords of inns here think that a man
-may make the proper use of his legs without being a beggar; and that the
-costume of a pedestrian may cover the form of a gentleman.  This
-philanthropic conception contributes to form that happy combination,
-civil hosts and merry travellers.
-
-There is no want of society, nor any difficulty in selecting that with
-which you are best pleased; for every evening brings in fresh comers from
-various quarters to the different places of rest and refreshment.  The
-exchange of information respecting routes, the different adventures of
-the day, the peculiar feelings displayed in their recital, and
-countenances lit up with pleasure, give a degree of animation to the
-evening, never to be equalled in the brilliant drawing-room, the blaze of
-which seems to put out the eyes of reason,—
-
-    “And men are—what they name not to themselves
-    And trust not to each other.”
-
-
-
-THE VILLAGE OF CHIRK
-
-
-is agreeably situated upon the northern bank of the river Ceiriog, which
-divides England from Wales.  The village church is dedicated to St. Mary,
-and is an impropriation belonging to Valle Crucis Abbey, and contains
-some monuments erected to the memories of the Chirk families.  The most
-interesting is that of the famous Sir Thomas Myddelton.  In the
-churchyard are some fine aged yew trees.
-
-
-
-BRYNKINALT.
-
-
-Taking the road upon the left of the church, we entered the charming park
-of Brynkinalt, and visited one of the most picturesque seats in the
-Principality.  This elegant mansion, with its ivy-covered walls, is the
-principal residence of the Viscount Dungannon, who is descended from
-Tudor Trevor, Earl of Hereford, founder of one of the fifteen tribes of
-North Wales.  Valle Crucis Abbey, as well as many of the churches in the
-neighbourhood, have been greatly improved at his lordship’s expense, who
-is distinguished for archæological taste and research.  The house was
-built during the reign of James the First, from a design by Inigo Jones,
-and is delightfully situated upon the brow of a hill, from which
-circumstance it derives its name.  The park is divided by the river
-Ceiriog.
-
-The late Duke of Wellington was maternally descended from this house.
-His mother, the Countess of Mornington, who was a daughter of Arthur
-Hill-Trevor, first Viscount Dungannon, spent much of her time here during
-the boyhood of our illustrious hero, who frequently visited his noble
-parent during the Eton holidays.  There are yet living those who remember
-the boyish frolics of him who was at a later period destined to act so
-conspicuous a part in the world’s history.
-
-By permission of the noble proprietor, the house and grounds are
-accessible to strangers during the summer months, and the paintings by
-Claude, Titian, Salvator Rosa, Carravaggio, Zucharelli, &c., are well
-worthy the inspection of the connoisseur and artist.
-
-
-
-CHIRK CASTLE.
-
-
-       “In Cambria’s noon of story,
-       Ere bright she set in glory,
-    The brave and great, in princely state,
-          All hail’d Chirk Castle walls.
-       With splendid arms returning,
-       The flaring torches burning,
-    ’Mid armour’s clang the clarions rang,
-       And search’d the sounding halls.”
-
-                                              SONG BY F. M. DOVASTON, A.M.
-
-Chirk Castle is delightfully situated on the spacious domain, spreading
-over the summit of, what would be deemed, by a southern, a lofty
-mountain, but which is here only designated a hill, projecting from the
-range of the Berwyn Mountains, and is well calculated to recall the
-stories of the days of old, when flourished—
-
-       “The good old rule, the simple plan,
-    That they should take who have the power,
-       And they should keep who can.”
-
-It is built of solid stone; and the ivy, mantling over the walls, gives
-them an appearance of solemnity and grandeur peculiarly interesting.  It
-is quadrangular, and is strengthened by five massive towers, one at each
-corner, and the fifth projecting from the principal front, through which
-is a lofty entrance into the court-yard, 165 feet in length, and 100 feet
-in breadth, surrounded on every side by noble suites of apartments.  The
-picture gallery measures 100 feet in length, by twenty-two in breadth,
-and contains some very excellent paintings, and several portraits of the
-Myddelton family.  Amongst the latter is that of Sir Thomas Myddelton,
-who defended himself gallantly against the forces of Cromwell.  He was
-rewarded for his loyalty by Charles the Second, who granted him £30,000
-for the loss he had sustained, besides many valuable presents; amongst
-others, a cabinet, which is shewn in the gallery, valued at £7000, richly
-ornamented with silver; in various compartments of which are paintings,
-said to have been executed by Rubens.  The monarch offered to elevate Sir
-Thomas to the peerage, which he declined.
-
-                         [Picture: Chirk Castle]
-
-The walls of the castle are eighteen feet in thickness; but sleeping and
-other apartments have been cut into them, for the accommodation of the
-family.
-
-The celebrated picture of Pistyll Rhaiadr, in the dining-room, shows that
-noble waterfall tumbling into the _sea_, _where several ships are quietly
-riding at anchor_.  “Pistyll Rhaiadr,” _i.e._ “The Spout of the
-Cataract,” is considered the largest fall in Wales.  In the valley of
-Mochnant, about four miles from Llanrhaiadr, the river falls over an
-almost perpendicular rock, 240 feet high; thence rushing furiously under
-a natural arch towards the bottom, it plunges into a deep black pool,
-overhung with impervious shaggy wood.
-
-The story of the artist’s introducing the ocean, with ships, is rather
-curious.  He was a foreigner, and but little acquainted with the English
-language; and when he had completed the picture, one of the persons to
-whom it was first shown observed, that “a few _sheep_ placed near the
-foot of the fall would be a great improvement.”  Misunderstanding _sheep_
-for _ship_, his amazement was extreme.  He, however, took the picture to
-his easel, and introduced _ships_, with the necessary element to float
-them!  A mistake so humourous determined the purchaser to allow of no
-further alteration.
-
-The present building was completed in two years.  The first stone being
-laid in the year 1011, and in 1013 the castle frowned defiance to the
-foe.
-
-It was built by Roger Mortimer, Earl of Wigmore, as a stronghold to
-defend him from the just vengeance he had created by the murder of the
-sons of Gruffydd ab Madoc, to whom he was appointed guardian, in
-conjunction with John, Earl of Warren, in the hope of inheriting their
-joint estates.  Mortimer was to seize upon Nanheudwy and Chirk, the
-property of the youngest; and Warren upon the lands of Bromfield, Yale,
-and Dinas Bran, belonging to the eldest.  Travellers should not neglect
-to visit this noble specimen of warlike architecture.  Its picture
-gallery and dungeon will, in their different styles, excite admiration.
-
-On the foundation of the present castle anciently stood Castle Crogen;
-and the territory around bore the name of Trev-y Waun, the property of
-the lords of Dinas Bran, which continued in their possession up to the
-death of Gruffydd ab Madoc, in the reign of Edward the First.
-
-The view from the highlands of the park is very extensive, and commands a
-prospect of seventeen different counties.
-
-The vale beneath, which winds along the foot of the vast Berwyn
-Mountains, was the scene of a desperate conflict between Henry the Second
-and the Welsh.  Henry having determined once more to attempt the
-subjugation of Wales, and to revenge the ravages carried through the
-borders by its gallant prince, Owen Gwynedd, assembled a vast army at
-Oswestry.  Owen, on the contrary, collected all the chieftains and their
-dependents at Corwen.  The two armies met on the banks of the Ceiriog.
-The conflict was obstinate and bloody, and numbers of brave men perished.
-In the end the Welsh retired to Corwen.  Henry reached the summit of the
-Berwyn, but was so distressed by dreadful rains, and by the activity and
-prudence of Owen, who cut him off from all supplies, that he was obliged
-to return ingloriously, with considerable loss of men and equipage.  The
-place is still called _Adwy’r Beddau_, or the Pass of the Graves—of the
-men who were slain there.
-
-The remains of Offa’s Dyke, the ancient boundary between England and
-Wales, are still visible near the castle, and may be traced a
-considerable distance through the park.
-
-The Vale of the Ceiriog at Chirk, like that of the Dee between Chirk and
-Llangollen, is distinguished by two specimens of architectural skill and
-enterprise, each valley being crossed by the Ellesmere Canal and the
-Shrewsbury and Chester Railway, upon long ranges of arches, at a
-considerable elevation.
-
-The aqueducts of Chirk and Pont y Cysylltau have long been the objects of
-general admiration, but for elegance of design, as well as magnitude,
-they must now yield the palm to the viaducts of the railway, which are,
-in truth, most noble structures.
-
-In this lovely village we put up at the Chirk Castle Arms to take
-luncheon, which was served with much civility—cold meat, a cream salad,
-and a capital Cheshire cheese, with the best of Shropshire ale.  This
-excellent inn is kept by Mr. Moses.
-
-After proceeding about a mile and a half on the Llangollen Road, and
-leaving Wynnstay, the noble mansion of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart.,
-M.P., on the right, we were conducted along the banks of a beautiful
-canal (the same that crosses the valley at Chirk), which was here planted
-with laurel and hazel in pleasing variety on either side.  On a sudden,
-an opening in the foliage presented us with a splendid view of the Vale
-of the Dee, with the two noble structures, the viaduct and aqueduct,
-gracefully stretching from hill to hill, and the waters of the river
-making their way amongst the broken rocks and embowering trees, and
-rolling under their arches with that delightful sound which is only heard
-in mountain scenery.
-
-Seldom had I experienced so delightful a sensation as the present
-prospect occasioned.  All was so calm, so quiet, it seemed, indeed, “the
-Happy Valley.”  Shortly after, however, we found that no golden pleasure
-is entirely free from alloy, for on turning a projection upon the road,
-we were nearly stifled from a lime furnace, and what was worse, another
-and another still succeeded, resembling a line of batteries blazing and
-vomiting forth smoke and destruction, while upon the opposite mountain an
-uniform body of iron works were firing away from their tall chimneys, and
-steadily maintained the never-ceasing conflict.
-
-At length, however, having happily passed these belligerents, my
-companion led me in triumph into a little public house on the road side,
-which overlooked a precipice, the _Aqueduct Tavern_, the exterior of
-which promised little better accommodation than is met with in an Irish
-cabin.  We entered, nevertheless, and although the floor was of brick, it
-was very clean, and the household utensils glittered along the walls.
-
-“Pray, gentlemen, walk into the back parlour,” said a comely-looking,
-good-natured landlady of forty-three.
-
-We gladly accepted her invitation, and were agreeably surprised to find a
-neat room, carpeted, with a sofa, and half-a-dozen hair-bottomed chairs,
-and every thing rurally comfortable.  The window looked upon the
-aqueduct, and commanded a beautiful prospect.
-
-Having discussed our beverage, and lighted cigars, we quitted the
-comfortable little cottage, and bent our steps towards the aqueduct, to
-cross by it to the opposite side of the Vale.
-
-A cigar in the cool of the evening is delightful,—
-
-    “Glorious tobacco, that from east to west,
-    Cheers the tar’s labour, and the Turk-man’s rest.”
-
-So sang the noble bard, the music of whose lyre is left to charm the race
-of mankind for ages yet to come.
-
-We soon reached the centre of the aqueduct; it extends, from hill to
-hill, in length 980 feet; it is sustained by twenty piers, 115 feet in
-height from the bed of the river Dee, and the span of the arches is
-forty-five feet.
-
-The length of the viaduct is 1,538 feet; its height 147 feet, the number
-of arches nineteen, and the span of each arch is sixty feet.
-
-I never felt the influence of the sublime mingled with the beautiful so
-deeply as when I stood upon this wonderful work of art; wherever I turned
-my eyes the scene was calculated to excite the warmest feelings of
-admiration.  The Dee flowing beneath, shadowed by the rich tints of the
-summer foliage; the ruined bridge; the dark mountain masses upon either
-side, patched with gloomy pines, intermingled with the relieving
-brightness of the graceful larch.  Here waves the lovely blooming
-heather, there stands the blasted rock in its naked majesty, the noble
-amphitheatre at the extremity of the vale, with a distant view of the
-viaduct; the twittering of the birds, as they settled to repose upon the
-trees around, altogether gave a charm to the evening which can only be
-felt while witnessing the scene, and which exceeds the power of
-description.
-
-Having crossed the aqueduct, we proceeded by the left bank of the canal,
-passing a forge, that nearly stifled us with gaseous smoke, along a
-pathway made of cinders and small coal, the refuse of the adjacent
-iron-smelting foundry.
-
-Trees of every description hung over our heads, and sloped down a deep
-declivity to the margin of the Dee, while on the opposite bank the
-mountain frowned above us.  The partial glances we obtained of the vale
-through the woods, discovered scenes which the artist’s fancy might
-vainly attempt to equal.
-
-At length we reached the Bridge of Llangollen, whence the river is seen
-to great advantage, tumbling over its rocky bed, and rushing beneath the
-dark shelter of the over-hanging trees.  The village is small, and
-contains two respectable hotels, viz., the Hand, at which we stopped by
-the advice of my companion, and the Royal Hotel.
-
-We were shown into a very good parlour, and after ordering a tea and
-supper dinner, my friend, somewhat exhausted by the day’s march, flung
-himself upon a sofa, while I resumed my journal, and soon afterwards
-retired to my bed-room, where the murmurs of the flowing Dee were
-distinctly heard beneath the window.
-
-“Here I am, then,” said I, soliloquising, as I pressed the pillow; “here
-am I, at length, in the Vale of Llangollen; in the village of
-Llangollen,—a spot which I have so often longed to visit!”
-
-    “Flow on, thou shining river!”
-
-and in a few moments I sank soundly to sleep.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER II.
-
-
-Plas Newydd.—Castell Dinas Brân.—Valle Crucis Abbey.—Pillar of
-Eliseg.—Vale of the Dee.—Corwen.—Route to Llandrillo.—Vale of
-Edeyrnion.—Arrival at Bala.
-
-    “I crossed in its beauty the Dee’s druid water,
-    The waves as I passed rippled lonely and lone,
-    For the brave on their borders had perished in slaughter,
-    The noble were banished, the gifted were gone.”
-
-                                                                W. WIFFEN.
-
-I WAS dreaming of home, and happiness, and a thousand lovely things, when
-I was awakened by my new acquaintance, who stood before me dressed for a
-sturdy walk.  “A lovely morning,” said my companion, rubbing his hands
-with much delight; “come, bustle, bustle, my young friend; you are not in
-London, now.  Permit me to open the lattice; you will find no perfume at
-your chamber window in town like this; and, as he spoke, he flung open
-the casement, and a rush of fragrance poured into the room from hundreds
-of roses that clustered upon the wall without; nor was my friend at all
-deficient in praising its sweetness, for, taking a long breath, he stood,
-for a moment, with his mouth wide open, and then sent forth a sigh, long
-enough to form a bridge over the river for the fairies to cross upon.
-
-“Shall we breakfast before we set out upon our ramble?  I think we had
-better give orders for it, and visit the cottage where Lady Eleanor
-Butler and Miss Ponsonby so long resided, while it is preparing.”
-
-This being agreed to, we gave directions for a breakfast, that would
-enable us to undergo the subsequent fatigue with cheerfulness, and then
-struck into the road for Plas Newydd.  This memorable little dwelling is
-pleasantly situated upon a rising knoll, and commands a delightful
-prospect of mountain scenery.
-
-              [Picture: Font in the Grounds of Plâs Newydd]
-
-The front of the cottage is ornamented with an oaken palisade, curiously
-carved with grotesque figures, giving a very tasty and aristocratic
-appearance to the building.  At the back of the house is a neat grass
-plot, with a birdcote, where the robins find a grateful shelter in the
-winter season, and where the ladies fed them every morning.  It is
-surrounded with a fence of evergreens.  From thence, the gardener
-conducted us under an archway, to a very pleasant and winding path, which
-leads to a well-stocked fruit garden.  We then descended by a shady walk,
-arched over with tall trees, to the primrose vale, through which a
-refreshing stream rushes over rocks, where the sun but rarely gilds it
-with its beams.  It is a delightful cool retreat, and well calculated to
-awaken the dormant spirit of poesy, in any heart where it had ever
-deigned to dwell.  We passed over a rustic bridge which led us to the
-verandah, from which we had a fine view of the valley, and the Pengwern
-and Berwyn Mountains; and then proceeding a little farther up the glen,
-we seated ourselves opposite a most picturesque font, brought hither from
-the ruins of Valle Crucis, by the late proprietors of this spot.  It is
-enclosed in a small arched niche, and supplied with the purest water from
-a murmuring rill, which falls in a thin stream into the bowl, a draught
-from which is an exquisite treat—for _water_ drinkers.
-
-The flower garden is laid out with great taste, and the little circular
-dairy, sunk in the ground, on the left at the front entrance, gives a
-most pleasing and picturesque effect.  Altogether it is a place to which
-any person, wearied with the bustle of society, would willingly fly for
-refuge, and find repose.
-
-Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby were young ladies of beauty and
-rank, who loved each other with so true an affection that they could
-never bear the afflicting idea of a separation which the marriage of
-either might occasion.  They, therefore, resolved upon lives of celibacy,
-refusing many handsome offers, and remaining deaf to the persuasions of
-their friends, they retired to the beautiful Vale of Llangollen to enjoy
-the happiness of each other’s company, that as their friendship began in
-infancy it might be perpetuated through life.
-
-These celebrated ladies were the pride of Llangollen for more than half a
-century, and by their numerous charities and general kindness of
-disposition, had endeared themselves to the hearts of the whole
-neighbourhood.  It is worthy of remark that during the long period of
-their residence in Wales, they never, for a single night slept from home.
-They occasionally visited the theatres at Wrexham and Oswestry, on
-charitable occasions, or when a “star” was engaged; but their invariable
-custom was to return home after the performances, whatever might be the
-state of the weather.
-
-In the lively Memoirs of the late Mr. Charles Matthews, the celebrated
-comedian, is the following description of “the Ladies of Llangollen,” but
-it must be remembered that at that time
-
-    “Age, with stealing, stealing steps,
-    Had clawed them in his clutch.”
-
-                                                 “OSWESTRY, Sept. 4, 1820.
-
-    “The dear inseparable inimitables, Lady Butler and Miss Ponsonby were
-    in the boxes here on Friday.  They came twelve miles from Llangollen,
-    and returned, as they never sleep from home.  Oh! such curiosities!
-    I was nearly convulsed.  I could scarcely get on for the first ten
-    minutes after my eye caught them.  Though I had never seen them, I
-    instantly knew them.  As they are seated, there is not one point to
-    distinguish them from men; the dressing and powdering of the hair;
-    their well-starched neckcloths; the upper part of their habits, which
-    they always wear even at a dinner-party, made precisely like men’s
-    coats, and regular black beaver hats.  They exactly looked like two
-    respectable superannuated clergymen.”
-
-In returning through the churchyard we passed the monument to the memory
-of Lady Eleanor Butler, Miss Ponsonby, and their faithful servant, Mary
-Carroll.
-
-The church is of considerable antiquity, but has very little left of
-architectural beauty; some fine carvings on the roof and in the interior
-still attest its former consequence.  It is noteworthy, however, inasmuch
-as the remains of the saint to whom it is dedicated are buried under its
-sacred roof.  Pennant gives his name in full, which is _Saint Collen ab
-Gwynnawg_, _ab Clydawg_, _ab Cowrda_, _ab Caradog Vreicvhras_, _ab Llyr
-Merim_, _ab Einion Yrth_, _ab Cunedda Wledig_, by _Ethni Wyddeles_,
-daughter to _Matholwch_, lord of _Cwl_, in the kingdom of _Ireland_.
-
-We now returned with good appetites to do justice to the fare provided by
-our host of the Hand, and here I was first destined to hear the sounds of
-the Welsh harp.  As we discussed our fare, the harper in the hall played
-up his liveliest tunes.
-
-Breakfast being despatched, we slung our pistols, _i.e._, leathern
-bottles, filled with _eau de vie_, to our sides, and started to view the
-ruins of Dinas Brân, an ancient fortress up the summit of a conical
-mountain, which forms the principal feature of this portion of the vale,
-and is indeed a striking object from almost every part of the
-neighbourhood.  The ascent begins near the foot of the ancient bridge
-opposite to the town, which was built in the early part of the fourteenth
-century, by the first John Trevor, Bishop of St. Asaph.  The view through
-the arches, either up or down the river, is extremely picturesque.
-
-My companion was strongly built, and being accustomed to rambling amongst
-the Welsh vales and over its steepest mountains, far outstripped me in
-the ascent, which was by no means easy.  We took a zig-zag direction up
-the hill, which was too precipitous to mount in a direct way, and as we
-approached the summit the ascent became more difficult; at length, after
-some little toil, we stood by the side of the _Well_, whose pure water
-gave joy to the inhabitants of this ancient fortress many hundred years
-ago, and still offers a welcome draught to the pilgrim who possesses
-sufficient perseverance to seek it.
-
-The view from the summit of this mountain is beautiful in the extreme;
-commanding the vale east to west, with the widely spreading plains beyond
-its eastern extremity, and the grand and picturesque mountain scenery
-which forms the western boundary.  Chirk Castle, Wynnstay, Valle Crucis
-Abbey, and Glyndwrdu, are distinctly visible from this elevation, while
-the romantic Dee is seen winding beneath, in light and shadow beautifully
-varied by the hills and woods that droop over its banks.
-
-
-
-CASTELL DINAS BRAN.
-
-
-The present remains of this ancient fortress are a few scattered walls.
-There is little doubt that it is of British origin, but the period of its
-erection, as well as the name of its founder is buried in oblivion.  The
-original dimensions of its walls were about 300 feet long and 150 feet
-broad.
-
-                      [Picture: Castell Dinas Brân]
-
-In the reign of Henry the Third it afforded an asylum from his enraged
-countrymen to Gruffydd ab Madoc, who basely betrayed his country to that
-monarch.
-
-In 1390 this castle was inhabited by Myvanwy Vechan, a most beautiful and
-accomplished female.  She was of the house of Tudor Trevor, and her
-father, Ednyved Vychan, then held the castle under the noble Earl of
-Arundel, in the reign of the unfortunate Richard the Second.  She was
-beloved by Howel ab Einion Lygliw, a celebrated bard, who addressed her
-in a most charming ode.
-
-On the north-west side of the hill is an adjacent rock called Craig
-Eglwyseg, or the Eagle’s Rock.  For more than half a mile this rock lies
-stratum upon stratum, in such a manner as to form a kind of steps,
-parallel with the horizon, called by naturalists _saxa sedilia_,
-affording a remarkable geological phenomenon.
-
-
-
-VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY,
-
-
-                      [Picture: Valle Crucis Abbey]
-
-Like most abbeys, is beautifully situated.  The monks of old well
-appreciated the value of rich lands and clear streams.  This exquisite
-relic of a past age was founded in the year 1200, by Gruffydd ab Madoc,
-Lord of Bromfield and Yale, and of the neighbouring castle, Dinas Brân;
-and in conformity with the rule of the Cistercian fraternity, was
-dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary.  The remains of the abbey at
-present existing consist of the church, and of a building on the southern
-side, part of which seems to have formed the abbot’s lodgings, the
-refectory, and the dormitory above, now tenanted by a farmer.  The church
-is a cruciform building, of which the northern side has been almost
-destroyed, and no vestige remains of the roof except in the eastern aisle
-of the southern transept.
-
-In the midst of these hallowed precincts, and until the last
-twelvemonths, the rubbish was heaped up to a great height, probably by
-the fall of the northern wall, and by the remains of the roof, but
-through the praiseworthy exertions of a nobleman in the neighbourhood,
-Viscount Dungannon, the whole has been cleared away, leaving the pavement
-and sides as they existed in former days.
-
-The eastern end is most ancient, and it is adorned by three lancet
-arches, forming one grand window.
-
-The entrance was in the west, under a broad and beautiful window, above
-which is a smaller one of marigold form, decorated with tracery and fret
-work, and beneath it may be deciphered the following inscription:—
-
-                                                              QUIESCAT AME
-
-    + ADAM ABBAS FECIT HOC OPUS I PACE.
-
-The intelligent _cicerone_ of this ancient building is Miss Jane Lloyd,
-who has lived in this retired but delightful spot for some years.  She
-has a perfect knowledge of the Welsh language, and of the history of
-these interesting ruins, which no one who has visited them can cease to
-remember with admiration and regret.
-
-
-
-THE PILLAR OF ELISEG.
-
-
-Not far from the abbey, in a field called Llwyn-y-Groes, or the Grove of
-the Cross, stands this famous pillar, which was erected above a thousand
-years ago to the memory of Eliseg, the father of a Prince of Powis,
-called Brochwel Ysgythrog, who met his death at the Battle of Chester, in
-607.
-
-It is among the first lettered stones that succeed the Meini-Hirion,
-Meini-Gwyr, and Llechau, and stood on a great tumulus, perhaps always
-environed with wood, according to the custom of the most ancient times.
-During the civil wars it was thrown down and broken, and the shaft, which
-was originally twelve feet, is now reduced to eight.  At the suggestion
-of Mr. Price, Bodleian Librarian, and a great antiquary, Mr. Lloyd, of
-Trevor Hall, had it placed in its present position.
-
-From Valle Crucis Abbey we proceeded to the banks of the Dee, and
-crossing the rude bridge over the river, struck into the high road to
-Corwen.  The country became highly interesting.  The mountains are lofty;
-and beneath, upon the right, Glyndwrdu the _Valley of the Dee_, discloses
-its picturesque beauty.
-
-The vale is so serpentine that it presents a succession of most exquisite
-views, and after a walk of three miles, on looking back, Castell Dinas
-Brân seems placed upon a lower eminence.  The Valley of Llangollen may be
-seen likewise from hence for many miles, terminated by the distant
-horizon.
-
-                       [Picture: Pillar of Eliseg]
-
-The Valley of the Dee was the patrimony of the renowned
-Glyndwr—Shakspere’s Glendower—and with many a mountain side and summit do
-the natives delight to associate his name.  Just beyond the seventh
-mile-stone, will be seen a kind of tumulus crested with a clump of firs;
-this is Glyndwr’s Mount, and is, we believe, fixed upon as the site of
-his palace.
-
-After passing the picturesque village of Llansaintfraid, nothing occurs
-to arrest the attention till Corwen is reached.  The hotel is named after
-the mighty Owen, and has a gigantic head over the door, much resembling
-the Saracen’s, of Snow Hill notoriety.
-
-The first question put to the jolly landlord was, “What can you give us
-to eat?”—It was about three o’clock in the day.
-
-“Why, sir, there is a nice roast duck, and some peas.”
-
-“And how long, pray, will it be before it is ready?”
-
-“A quarter of an hour.”
-
-“Very well, that will do; and in the interim I will visit the church.”
-
-In a few minutes I was conducted to the ancient edifice.
-
-On one side of the altar is the lid of a coffin, which bears the
-following inscription:—
-
-    “HIC JACET JORWERTH SULIEN, VICARIUS DE CORVAEN.  ORA PRO EO.”
-
-In the church wall is shewn the private doorway through which Owen
-Glyndwr entered the building whenever he attended divine worship, and in
-the rock which overhangs the churchyard, there is a recess which bears
-the name of Owen Glyndwr’s Chair; and the stone which now forms the
-lintel of the doorway leading to his pew, is said to retain the mark of
-his dagger, half an inch in depth, which he threw from the said chair;
-but upon what occasion it is not stated.
-
-In the cemetery there is a Cross, fixed in a circular stone, westward of
-the steeple; and it is supposed that the name of Corwen is a corruption
-of Corvaen, and derived from this Cross.  _Cor_ signifies a circle, and
-_maen_ (which is likewise considered to have been changed into _vaen_) if
-joined to _cor_, means a cross in the circle.
-
-Having satisfied my curiosity here, I returned to the inn, and the first
-object which met my delighted eyes, was the promised duck, accompanied by
-a dish of most elegant trout: a dainty for which I had been longing ever
-since I entered this territory of rocks and torrents.  My friend was
-already placed at the table, and he clapped his hands, and rubbed them
-with evident delight and satisfaction at seeing me arrive so opportunely.
-
-The fish despatched, duck and green peas, in close column brought up the
-rear.  But I and my gallant comrade—a better trencherman ne’er poised a
-fork—attacked in line, cut up the one, and routed the other with the most
-determined bravery.  The right and left wings were attacked and cut off
-from the main body, which, with all its materials, we dispersed in the
-glorious conflict, remaining masters of the field.
-
-Although I thus warmly express my satisfaction at partaking of this
-not-easily-to-be-forgotten luxury, let me not be mistaken for a gourmand;
-but a wet and tired traveller, however much his mind may be enchanted by
-the scenery through which he passes, never beholds a more delightful
-prospect than a comfortable meal at his journey’s end.
-
-It so happened, however, that this was not to be my journey’s end, as it
-was my intention to reach Bala before nightfall.
-
-At this spot my companion and I were to separate: his path lay towards
-Cerrig-y-druidion, and mine towards Llandrillo and the Vale of Edeyrnion.
-
-With a feeling of regret I never before experienced at quitting a new
-acquaintance of so short a standing, I squeezed his hand, and once more
-took the road for another walk of ten miles.
-
-At a short distance from Corwen, a road branches off to the left, along
-which the traveller should trudge to the village of Llandrillo, and he
-will be repaid by the sight of one of the most fertile valleys in Wales.
-It is a mile farther to Bala by this route, but the superior beauty of
-the scenery will amply recompence him for the extra distance, for, with
-the exception of a view of Bala Lake, obtained from an eminence, the
-road, which runs along the opposite side of the valley, is dull and
-uninviting.  But on the contrary, by the Llandrillo route, the eye is
-delighted with a succession of scenes varied and interesting in the
-extreme.  Huge masses of rock hang over the road upon the left, in
-threatening grandeur, while waving woods and falling streams give endless
-variety to the picture.
-
-After proceeding five miles, I crossed a bridge over a fine trout-stream,
-the banks of which are shaded with trees, and turning into an avenue upon
-the right, seated myself by the margin of the brook, secured from the hot
-rays of the mid-day sun, I fancied myself the melancholy Jacques.  There
-only wanted a wounded stag, to make the illusion perfect.
-
-As I entered the village of Llandrillo, I was much delighted with the
-lively scene.  The long street was crowded with peasantry, in their
-holiday clothes.  On each side were stalls, formed of tubs turned upside
-down, and boards placed upon them, to support their merchandise; square
-patches strewed with straw and covered with crockery and glass; tables
-well stored with woollen hose and mittens; and stands of gingerbread and
-ginger-pop were liberally stationed in different quarters, to gratify and
-refresh the happy throng.  At times, a sudden opening in the crowd took
-place, the whole mass of people jamming each other upon either side of
-the street, to make way for a trotting pony, or an ambling nag, to curvet
-and prance down the middle and up again, to show his paces.  At the upper
-end of the fair, a hardware man harangued a crowd of people from his
-travelling warehouse (a covered cart,) endeavouring to persuade them that
-he came to Llandrillo solely for their benefit, and for no selfish motive
-upon earth, and labouring to convince them, in brazier-like eloquence,
-that the articles he offered to their notice were considerably under
-prime cost, and could not be purchased elsewhere for treble the money;
-but, though he sold at a great sacrifice to himself, he begged them not
-to consider his loss, but their gain; such an opportunity would never
-again present itself, therefore now was their only time to buy cheap!
-
-A party of Welsh girls attracted my attention, gathered together in front
-of a wall, upon which a line of men’s hats were ranged, of various
-qualities and prices; and great glee and laughter were elicited as each
-fitted the new beaver upon her head, it being considered the _ne plus
-ultra_ of taste, and a powerful auxiliary to the coquetry of a Welsh
-girl.
-
-Leaving Llandrillo, and proceeding towards Bala, the traveller enters the
-
-
-
-VALE OF EDEYRNION.
-
-
-The mountains here, upon either side, are covered with plantations, and
-the beautiful Dee winds gracefully in the centre of the valley, through
-delightful meadows, while corn fields wave upon the sloping banks, and
-everything presents to the eye the appearance of freshness and fertility,
-cheerfulness and content.  At the bridge near Llanddervel, a small
-village, which is first observed upon the opposite bank of the Dee, a
-splendid view presents itself.  The river here is broad, shallow, and
-deep, by turns, and looking up or down the vale, its meandering
-sportiveness charms the eye.  At the extremity of the valley is a lofty
-mountain, planted to the summit, which seems so closely to envelope it as
-to prevent all egress.  To stand upon this bridge at sunset, and listen
-to the whistle of the sheep-boy as he trudges merrily along the road, the
-song of the husbandman, or the joyous laugh of the milkmaids—sounds that
-float upon the silent air for miles, at such an hour—the twittering of
-the birds—the low crake of the rail, amidst the corn—and sweeter than
-all, the music of the river, discharging liquid sounds from its
-transparent bosom—creates a sensation which we are at a loss how to
-express.  Excess of pleasure becomes painful; and, overpowered with
-delight, nature asserts her influence, and we experience the luxury of
-tears!—at least, I did, and I pity from my soul the man who is
-unfortunately incapable of a similar feeling.
-
-Passing through the little village of Llanvor, and crossing a stream over
-the bridge close by the lodge of Mr. Price, of Rhiwlas, I at length
-arrived at the White Lion, in the town of Bala; and, tired with my day’s
-exertions, called for a tea-dinner and slippers, and early retired to
-rest.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER III.
-
-
-Bala.—The Lake.—A Jolter.—Glan y Llyn.—Vale of Drws y Nant.—Cader
-Idris.—Dolgelley.—The Town Hall.—Parliament House.—St. Mary’s
-Church.—Inns.—Angling Stations.—The Cataracts of Rhaiadr Du and Pistyll y
-Cain.—Nannau Park.—Anecdote of Owen Glyndwr and Owen Sele.—Road to
-Barmouth.—Arrival.—Inns.—A Walk on the Sands.
-
-    “I lay on the rock where the storms have their dwelling,
-    The birth-place of phantoms, the home of the cloud,
-    Around it for ever deep music is swelling—
-    The voice of the mountain wind, solemn and loud.”
-
-                                                              MRS. HEMANS.
-
-ON the following morning I found myself unable to walk, from the effect
-produced by a sprained ancle, and I had the delightful prospect of being
-confined to the room of an inn in a country town, without a being to
-converse with, or a book to enliven me; but my kind landlord, a fine,
-portly, rosy-cheeked, round-headed, honest-hearted Boniface, as ever drew
-spigot, kindly offered me a pony, to take me to the lake, which, he said,
-contained plenty of perch.  This offer I thankfully accepted, and, by the
-aid of mine host and his ostler, was soon seated upon the back of a quiet
-not-to-be-put-out-of-his-way animal, as any clerical gentleman could
-desire to ride upon, and
-
-    “With slow and solemn pace,”
-
-proceeded to catch fish, and view the scenery around
-
-
-
-LLYN TEGID, OR BALA LAKE.
-
-
-Seated upon a rock that projects into the lake (under the shadow of which
-is the boat-house of Mr. Price, of Rhiwlas,) I commenced my solitary
-pastime; but my eyes continually wandered from the float to the
-surrounding scenery, which is of a pleasing rather than an imposing
-nature.  The lake was slightly ruffled by a refreshing breeze, which
-fortunately sprang up, and prevented me from dissolving in the heat of
-the sun.  It is about four miles in length, and in some parts it is forty
-yards in depth.  The shores are sloping, the soil gravelly, and
-delightfully variegated with plantations of trees and shrubs.  Towards
-the head of the lake the mountains are upon a very grand scale, and rival
-Snowdon in their altitude; Arran Vowddwy is the loftiest of these, near
-the summit of which, upon its eastern side, beneath a huge crag, is
-situated a lake, which affords excellent sport to the angler, although
-the fish are not of the finest quality.
-
-                           [Picture: Bala Lake]
-
-Arrenig Vawr, (or great,) which is nearly as lofty as Arran Vowddwy, and
-rises upon the N.W. side of the Llyn, has also a lake, containing trout
-of a large size, which are noted for rejecting the artificial fly; but,
-about half way up the Arrenig Vâch, (or little,) is a lake, which, when a
-light breeze sweeps along its surface, will amply reward the angler for
-his trouble in reaching it.  A morning and an evening, at each of these
-places, enable me to state thus much, for the benefit of the disciples of
-Izaac Walton.
-
-I was suddenly aroused from a dream of pleasure, which I was enjoying
-with my eyes open, by a tug at my line, reminding me that a fish had
-swallowed the hook.  After a little coquetting, which lovers usually make
-use of, I brought it to my arms, and then thrust it into my bag: a fine
-perch!  I now resolved to begin in earnest, and in an hour, by my
-temptation and insinuation, contrived to obtain a very handsome dish,
-with which I returned upon my pony to the inn, resigning them and myself
-to the care of mine hostess.
-
-The town of Bala consists of one long street, has about 2500 inhabitants,
-and is celebrated for its manufacture of woollen articles, such as
-stockings, gloves, and formerly Welsh wigs.  Upon an eminence at the S.E.
-end of the town, the old women and young girls assemble in considerable
-numbers, during the summer months, to pursue their industrious avocations
-in the open air.  The mound is called Tommen y Bala; it is said to be of
-Roman construction, and from the summit a very fine view may be obtained
-of Llyn Tegid and the mountains.  There is a town hall, and a chapel of
-ease to the parish church at Llanycil, about a mile distant, where the
-morning service is read in English only upon the first Sunday in each
-month.
-
-Rising early the following morning I found no inconvenience from my
-ancle, and after a good breakfast took leave of my host and his wife,
-both of whom appeared anxious to see me comfortably seated in the
-vehicle.
-
-The car in which I was bumped along the road, in every respect resembled
-those delightful conveyances that rattle the astonished traveller from
-Cork to Blarney.  It is a sort of oval box, placed upon two wheels, with
-a door behind, and with good wedging will contain four persons; but being
-springless and cushionless, the passenger is jolted to his heart’s
-content, that is, if his heart has been set on jolting; and, without
-doubt, it is fine exercise for persons of sedentary habits, if by any
-chance, their bones happen to escape dislocation.  My knapsack (my
-opposite, and only fellow passenger) and I, looked very black at each
-other, as we bobbed up and down, like a cockney grocer’s apprentice upon
-a high trotting horse; but I soon became resigned, and my knapsack having
-shifted its berth for the bottom of the vehicle, seemed to rest more
-comfortably than on the seat.  Notwithstanding the inconvenience I
-suffered from this carriage, I could not help admiring the extreme beauty
-of the lake, as we pursued our course along its borders; sometimes only
-catching a glimpse of it through the trees that shaded its delightful
-margin.  Its waters were smooth and motionless; not a ripple was visible
-upon its surface; the lofty mountains reflected in its breast gave a
-sombre tinge to the otherwise golden scene, and as I looked into the
-clear depths of the shadows, I thought how peacefully one shattered by
-the storms of life might sink beneath, and be at rest!
-
-After passing Glan y Llyn (an estate belonging to Sir W. W. Wynn, who
-claims the whole fishing of this beautiful piece of water, and has, by
-putting a quantity of pike therein, destroyed all the trout and gwynniad
-with which it once abounded) the scenery became wild, and cheerless,
-until we reached
-
-
-
-THE VALE OF DRWS Y NANT,
-
-
-where, to my great satisfaction, the car stopped at the sign of the Welsh
-Prince, a distance of ten miles from Bala, and eight from Dolgelley.
-Being thoroughly tired with my ride, I thought I would endeavour to
-obtain the proper use of my limbs, and rest myself by walking the
-remainder of the journey.  Dismissing the car, therefore, and strapping
-my knapsack to my shoulders, I once more took the road.
-
-About a mile beyond the Welsh Prince the valley becomes truly beautiful.
-Waving woods adorn the mountains upon either side.  The Wnion here begins
-to be an important stream; and, though in its course towards Dolgelley it
-is swelled by numerous mountain tributaries into a broad river, the trees
-upon its banks form an impenetrable screen, which conceal it from the
-traveller, and its hoarse murmur, as it dashes over the rocks that vainly
-endeavour to intercept its way, alone remind him of its vicinity.  At
-length I arrived at a spot where a road leads over a bridge to the
-opposite side of the river.  Thinking this would be a proper place to see
-the Wnion to advantage, I advanced to the centre of the bridge.  The
-effect is beautiful; hanging woods adorn the banks of the stream,
-lofty-ash trees (around the trunks of which the ivy winds itself in
-snakelike folds, feeding upon the tree that supports it), spread their
-proud heads above, and form a pleasing shade, while below the river
-roars, as it is precipitated beneath the arch in two large falls, that
-form a deep pool on the opposite side.
-
-Nearly the whole of this lovely valley is the property of Sir Robert
-Vaughan.  Pursuing my journey towards Dolgelley, a sudden turn in the
-road and an opening in the dell revealed to my delighted eyes the
-celebrated mountain called Cader Idris.
-
-
-
-CADER IDRIS,
-
-
-the loftiest mountain in Merionethshire, and the second in North Wales,
-is said to be 950 yards in perpendicular height from Dolgelley Green.
-Cader Idris literally means “Idris’s chair,” where he is supposed to have
-studied astrology; and Idris is a name attributed to Enoch, the founder
-of astronomy.  Mr. Edward Jones, to whom the public are indebted for his
-learned and ingenious work, entitled “The Bardic Museum,” observes that
-“Caer Idris implies the city of the learned;” and Mr. Rowland, in his
-“Mona Antiqua,” mentions a place in Anglesey called Caer Idris, also Bôd
-Idris, or “Idris’s abode or mansion,” in Yale, Denbighshire, which still
-retains the name, as well as that of Llêch Idris, or “the shelter of
-Idris,” a farm so called, at Trawsvynydd in Merionethshire, which also
-may imply the grave of Idris.  Idris is supposed to have flourished in
-the third or fourth century, and his genealogy from an old manuscript,
-runs thus:—“Idris Gawr ab Gwyddno, ab Tibion, ab Cunedda Wledig.”
-
-                [Picture: Cader Idris, from the Bala Road]
-
-Snowdon and Cader Idris were formerly supposed to be the Parnassian hills
-of Wales, and none but good bards could claim so elevated a seat.
-
-Idris, the champion or bard, invented the harp; or if the Gomerian
-Britons brought that instrument into the country, when they first
-inhabited the island, it seems to have been lost and forgotten; for Idris
-is said to have invented something similar; but it is probable he only
-made some improvement on the ancient harp, or perhaps his superior skill
-in performing on it might have gained him that reputation.  From all that
-can be gathered from tradition, he was a learned man, an astrologer, and
-a bard; and it is likely that the summit of this mountain was chosen by
-him, to examine from thence the movements of the heavenly bodies, to
-write his inspired verses, or to frame laws for the government and
-benefit of his country.
-
-The walk from this spot to Dolgelley is exceedingly beautiful; and as the
-tourist approaches the town before crossing the bridge which is flung
-over the river Mawddach, a sign of some importance attracts his attention
-upon the right: it runs thus:—
-
-                                   R. PUGH,
-                                Guide General
-                       To the Waterfalls, Cader Idris,
-                        And all the curious scenery in
-                          The vicinity of Dolgelley.
-                    N.B.  Licenced to let saddled horses.
-
-
-
-DOLGELLEY,
-
-
-or Dolgelleu, the Dale of the Hazel, is the principal market town in
-Merionethshire, and the assizes are held here, alternately with Bala.
-The town hall, the most important building, is a neat stone edifice,
-erected in the year 1825, and cost £3000.  It is built near the banks of
-the river Wnion, (pronounced Oonion) and the court room is fitted up with
-every necessary accommodation for the officers of justice.  In the hall
-is a very fine portrait of Sir R. W. Vaughan, Bart., painted by Sir M. A.
-Shee, F.R.A.
-
-Part of an old building, called “Cwrt Plâs yn-y Drêv,” or the Town-hall
-Court, is still remaining amongst a range of wretched hovels at the back
-of the post office, in which a parliament was held by Owen Glyndwr.  The
-county jail at the outskirts of the town is of a semi-circular form,
-built of stone, and was erected in 1811, at an expense of £5000.
-
-St. Mary’s Church is a neat limestone edifice, of Grecian architecture,
-with a handsome tower, and an expansive nave.  In it is an ancient
-monument of an armed knight, who is represented in a suit of mail,
-helmet, a neck guard, a sword in his hand, and a dog at his feet; a lion
-passant gardant is on his shield, upon which is inscribed: “Hic jacet
-Mauric Filius Ynyr Vychan.”  There is a modern one lately erected to the
-memory of Baron Richards.
-
-               [Picture: Parliament House of Owen Glyndwr]
-
-The town is celebrated for a manufacture of coarse woollen cloths and
-flannels, called webs.  The old town-hall is used for various purposes;
-English church service is performed there every other Sunday; it is also
-used as a national school, and children are there taught to sing the
-church psalms.  It is likewise known as the theatre.
-
-Those fond of fine scenery should ascend the mountain from the north side
-of the vale, to obtain the best view of the town, as it lies sheltered at
-the foot of the majestic Cader Idris, which rears its lofty shoulders in
-the clouds.
-
-Clustering woods adorn the opposite range of mountains, as they slope in
-irregular masses westward to the ocean.  The river beautifully meandering
-through the green meadows, the solemn quietude that prevails around,
-disturbed only by the sound of the church clock, marking the progress of
-the fleeting hours with lengthened tone, which, like the music of another
-world, sweeps through the enchanting vale, combine to render this a place
-where those not wedded to routs, masquerades, gambling, and
-licentiousness, might wish to live and die.
-
-Dolgelley contains several good inns, of which the most frequented are
-the Golden Lion, the Angel, and the Ship.  Comfortable lodgings may
-likewise be obtained, at a cheap rate, by those who desire to remain in
-the neighbourhood for the purpose of making excursions to the Falls,
-Kymmer Abbey, and Nannau Park, the fishing stations, Dol y Gamedd on the
-Aran, Llyn-tri-Graienyn, Llyn y Gader, Llyn Geirw, Tal y Llyn, &c.
-
-The tourist should not quit Dolgelley without visiting the Waterfalls,
-which, after heavy rains, are very magnificent.  As I was still suffering
-from the severe sprain, I was accommodated by my friend, who also obliged
-me with his company, with a very fine horse to carry me to the falls;
-and, bold and sure-footed, he performed his duty nobly, in spite of
-crags, cliffs, hills, and hollows.
-
-
-
-THE RHAIADR DU
-
-
-is situated in the grounds belonging to Miss Madock, called Dôl
-Melynllyn.  Here the torrent leaps from a height of sixty feet over
-precipitous rocks, and plunges with a violence that seems to shake the
-crags and trees around, into a deep pool, from which it proceeds down the
-dingle, over black and broken fragments, to the river Mawddach.  A
-footpath conducts the tourist to the bottom of the falls, from which,
-stepping upon some loose stones in the middle of the stream, he will
-obtain the best view of the cataract.  A walk of about three miles brings
-him to the falls of the Mawddach and Pistyll y Cain, returning from
-which, he may visit Y Vanner, or Kymmer Abbey, founded in 1198, by
-Meredith and Gruffydd, lords of Merioneth, dedicated to St. Mary, and
-inhabited by monks of the Cistercian order.  It is not now, however,
-worthy of the tourist’s attention.  But Nannau Park, the seat of Sir
-Robert William Vaughan, will afford much pleasure to those who visit it.
-The grounds are thickly wooded, and the mansion is supposed to occupy the
-highest ground of any residence in Britain.  The approach to it is five
-miles in length; it stands 702 feet above the level of the sea, and the
-park is celebrated for its venison.  Previously to the year 1814, there
-stood an oak in this park which bore a name terrible to the ears of the
-peasantry; it was called
-
-
-
-DERWEN CEUBREN YR ELLYLL,
-
-
-which translated, means, “the hollow oak, the haunt of demons.”  In this
-oak, it is said, Owen Glyndwr immured the body of Howell Sele, the
-proprietor of this estate, who, while they were walking together,
-treacherously shot an arrow at the breast of Glyndwr, who, however,
-having armour beneath his doublet, fortunately received no hurt.  The
-cause of this treachery is said to have been the indignation expressed by
-Owen at his kinsman’s refusal to join his cause to redress his country’s
-wrongs.  Glyndwr forced his body into the hollow of this oak, most likely
-after having slain him, where, forty years after this event, a skeleton
-was discovered.  The chieftain, after laying waste the mansion and domain
-of Sele, hastened to join his friends.  Sir W. Scott has written a very
-beautiful poem upon this legend, which will be found in the fifth note to
-his sixth canto of Marmion, and is called the “spirit’s blasted tree.”
-In 1813, this monarch of the wood fell to the ground.
-
-The country from Dolgelley to the mouth of the river is well worth a
-journey of three hundred miles to visit, even though there were no other
-objects worthy of notice in North Wales, and will amply compensate the
-most eager researcher after the sublime and beautiful.
-
-At a turn of the coach road from a place called Ty-gwyn, a splendid view
-of Cader Idris is obtained, particularly in the evening, when the mists
-arise from the numerous lakes in the vicinity, like volumes of smoke from
-a domain of fire, curling in fantastic forms around the mountain’s waist,
-leaving its summit stern and clear in an unclouded sky—like a proud giant
-surveying with disdain the dwarfish host of which he is the leader.
-
-Another noble view attracts attention, at a place called Glan
-Mawddach—the broad arm of the sea, stretching for miles between the
-rugged mountains, which, shrouded in veils of silvery mist, fling their
-dark shadows into the depths of the water.  Arriving at
-
-
-
-BARMOUTH,
-
-
-the coach stopped at the Corsygedol Arms; but I proceeded to the
-Commercial Inn, where there is very good accommodation, and a good
-look-out seaward.  A warm bath of sea water refreshed me; and by the star
-light I strolled upon the sands, which are very hard and pleasant to walk
-upon, while my repast was preparing at the inn.  The night was calm and
-serene, and my mind naturally adapted itself to the surrounding scene.
-“The brave o’erhanging firmament—the majestical roof fretted with golden
-fire,” appeared to me far from being “a foul and pestilent congregation
-of vapours.”  My soul took wing, and bounded from star to star, leaping
-the realms of space, and plunging into infinity, till wearied with its
-immeasurable flight, it resought its earthly tenement, and my body, which
-it left immoveable, as if transformed to marble, resumed its functions.
-The low moan of the ocean swam on my ear, like heavenly music.  A light
-breeze brought with it delicious freshness; and, as I looked towards the
-land, all seemed as quiet as the abode of peace.  The lights from the
-houses had a pleasing effect, as they streamed through the windows, row
-above row, under and upon the side of the overhanging cliffs.
-
-I returned to “mine inn,” and my meal being despatched, retired to bed.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER IV.
-
-
-Description of Barmouth.—Sketch of the Town.—The Estuary.—Friar’s
-Island,—Dinas Gortin.—Earl of Richmond.—Anecdote of the Men of Ardudwy,
-and the Men of Denbighshire.—Corsygedol Hall.—A Pic-nic Party.—Llyn Cwm
-Bychan.—Carreg y Saeth.—Bwlch Tyddiad.—A Mountain Ride and a Regretful
-Farewell.
-
-    “The mountayne men live longer many a year
-    Then those in vale, in plaine, or marrish soyle;
-    A lustie hart, a cleene complexion cleere,
-    They have on hill that for hard living toyle;
-    With ewe and lambe, with goats and kinds they play,
-    In greatest toyles to rub out wearie day;
-    And when to house and home good fellowes draw,
-    The lads can laugh at turning of a strawe.”
-
-                                                               CHURCHYARD.
-
-BARMOUTH, or Aber-Maw, derives its name from being situated at the
-embouchure of the river Maw or Mawddach, which at the entrance is
-obstructed by a bar.  The old town, viewed from the sea, resembles a
-fortress of some strength, hanging immediately over the sands.  In most
-cases a lofty situation is an advantage, but here it is the reverse; for
-so steep is the side of the cliff on which it stands, that the
-inhabitants of the upper regions are completely smoke-dried from the
-chimneys of all the dwellings beneath.
-
-The new town stands at the base of the rock, and but for some mounds of
-sand, that appear likely to grow into mountains by the influence of the
-winds and waves, would inevitably be washed away by the spring tides.
-Some of the fishermen’s habitations on the beach are at times buried in
-the drifting sands; and, after a strong wind from the seaward, the
-inhabitants generally labour hard to clear the obstruction from their
-doors.
-
-Barmouth had few visitors during my stay, and from the report of those I
-met with, is greatly decreasing in popularity, which says but little in
-favour of the lovers of fine scenery.  When the tide is at full, the
-panorama around the estuary cannot be surpassed in beauty.  The majestic
-river winds amongst rocks, clad with purple heather, or projecting in
-barren grandeur, that lift their jagged summits tier over tier, and peak
-overtopping peak, while still tremendous, towering over all, the lofty
-Idris looms in the back ground.  Green hills and woody promontories,
-forests that stretch into the dark recesses of the mountains, villas and
-copsewood glens, give an endless variety to the romantic scene.
-
-The town contains about 2000 inhabitants, and there is a manufactory of
-flannels and woollen stockings.
-
-At noon, as I was basking upon the sands, or Friar’s Island, which is
-situated at the mouth of the river, I had the pleasure to see my new
-acquaintance and friend gallop into the town, and old Charon having
-ferried me from the island to the main land once more, I hastened to
-welcome him, as fast as my damaged limb would suffer me.  He proposed
-driving me to Corsygedol Hall, the seat of the Hon. E. M. L. Mostyn;
-which being agreed to, I ordered dinner to be ready at our return, and we
-started.  The drive upon the Harlech road is bleak; upon the right, the
-hills are barren; and seaward, beneath the road, is an extensive flat,
-consisting chiefly of bog land and far from interesting.  About a mile
-and a half from the town stands the Church of Llan Aber, upon the extreme
-verge of a cliff which overlooks the ocean.  The Carnarvonshire mountains
-have a fine effect stretching into the sea; of which the Rivals, with
-their lofty peaks, are noble objects in the distance.  Following the
-chain, the eye rests for a moment upon Carn Bodean, and in the flat
-between it and Carn Madryn is the town of Pwllheli.  The chain is resumed
-at Rhiw mountain, and terminates at Aberdaron point, three leagues from
-which is Bardsey Island, a conspicuous and interesting object; for there
-dwelt the bards of old, amongst whom were numbered the fathers of
-science, the national interpreters, musicians, and legislators, priests,
-and princes of Cambria.  With their oratory they soothed the savage
-ignorance of mankind into civilization and knowledge, and polished their
-minds with the powerful aid of music and poetry.  After the dreadful
-slaughter of the monks of Bangor, those who survived took shelter upon
-this island.  A few ruined walls alone remain of the ancient abbey; and
-the inhabitants, who do not exceed one hundred persons, support
-themselves chiefly by fishing.
-
-About three miles from Barmouth, upon the summit of the mountain called
-Dinas Gortin, are the remains of a military encampment, and near to the
-town there stood a tower, where it is said the Earl of Richmond used to
-conceal himself, when he visited his secret allies in this part of the
-country.
-
-Near the military station, are the tombs of the celebrated men of
-Ardudwy; who, in imitation of the Roman robbers, made an incursion into
-Denbighshire, and overcoming the men, forcibly tore the women from their
-families, and returned in triumph with them to their own country.
-
-But the men of Denbighshire, rallying, pursued the spoilers, and
-overtaking them in the pass of Drws Ardudwy, routed them with great
-slaughter.  But the infatuated women had by this time conceived so
-extraordinary a passion for their violators, that rather than survive
-their loss, or perhaps more probably, to escape the fury of their former
-husbands, they drowned themselves in a lake, which is called the Llyn y
-Morwynion, or Pool of the Maidens.
-
-About two miles further, a road up a steep ascent conducted us to a fine
-avenue of trees, through which we passed, and at the termination of it
-came to a handsome gateway called Porth Mawr, which admitted us into the
-mansion of Corsygedol, which has nothing in it to interest the tourist.
-The interior of the building is incommodious and inelegant.  The
-drawing-room contains a few wretched portraits and high-backed chairs;
-and the rest of the apartments are meanly furnished.
-
-We returned to Barmouth by the sea shore, and after a most delightful
-drive upon Neptune’s boundaries, arrived at the inn, where the evening
-was passed in conviviality, tempered with prudence, and sweetened by
-social and interesting conversation.  As I had determined upon proceeding
-to Harlech the following day, my companion was resolved to make the
-journey as agreeable as possible, and requesting me to forward my
-knapsack, &c., by the coach, informed me that he would be ready to
-accompany me in the morning.  Requesting him, therefore, to be early at
-breakfast, we parted for the night.
-
-After despatching a hasty meal next morning, the word was given “to horse
-and away.”  My old favourite who bore me so gallantly to the black
-cataract, was again resigned to my care, and I to his, gentle as a lamb,
-proud as a war horse, and agile as an antelope.  I felt like an Arab, on
-his steed, and I thought I could defy the winds to overtake me.  We
-proceeded once more to Corsygedol Hall, which was the appointed spot of
-rendezvous for a pic-nic party.  Here I had the happiness of meeting some
-of the choicest flowers of the Welsh Highlands.  Youth, beauty, freedom,
-and innocence, beamed from the laughing eyes and unsullied cheeks of our
-fair companions.  The “how d’ye do’s?” “glad to see you,” “fine morning,”
-&c., &c., being ended, we moved forward in a formidable cavalcade.
-Mirth, wit, and pleasure played on the lips and sparkled in the eyes of
-the whole party; and the animals that bore us seemed to partake of the
-general feeling, by pricking up their glossy ears, and bounding over the
-rugged road with more spirit than prudence.  Much mirth was occasioned by
-the opening of gates and crossing of brooks.  At length the party plunged
-into a beautiful wood.  I paused upon an eminence to mark the effect as
-they descended; it was picturesque in the extreme, as at intervals,
-through the openings, I caught a partial glimpse of the troop, pursuing
-their cheerful way down the steep path.  Pleased with the sight, I passed
-the party at a gallop, and arriving at the foot of the hill, remained
-upon a bridge, close by the woodman’s cottage, which crosses a mountain
-stream, watching their approach.
-
-It was delightful to see them advancing one by one through the thick
-foliage which hung on either side of the path, and arching over their
-heads.  On arriving at the foot of the descent, the party drew up, and,
-had an artist been among us, I am confident he would have produced a
-picture which, even on the lifeless canvass, would have delighted the
-connoisseurs of Somerset House.
-
-The variety of costume, the colour of the horses, the general sensation
-of delight which lighted up the features of the gay group; the
-picturesque cottage and bridge, the broad rushing stream, the waving
-woods, with now and then a glimpse of the sterile mountains, peeping
-above the beautiful fertility, formed a landscape which Salvator Rosa
-himself would have been delighted to delineate.
-
-                   [Picture: View from Carreg y Saeth]
-
-Penetrating through a woody maze, a glen upon our right, and huge wild
-masses of rock towering above our heads, we passed Cravnant, a house
-situated in the deep shade of the lonely wood.  The rocks now assumed a
-wild and threatening aspect upon our left, as we emerged into a more open
-track, and entered upon the domain of Dolwreiddiog, a little beyond which
-commences perhaps the wildest scenery in North Wales.  Descending by a
-rocky path, we came to
-
-
-
-LLYN Y CWM BYCHAN,
-
-
-or, the lake of the little hollow, on the opposite margin of which, the
-wild and dismal Carreg-y-Saeth, the rock of the arrow, rears its black
-head in fearful grandeur.  Cwm Bychan, is a grassy dell, surrounded on
-all sides by the most frightful sterility; which, while we gazed with
-wonder on the sublimity of the scene, made us shudder at the utter
-desolation it presented.  A poor cottage stands at the further end of the
-valley, from which, having obtained a plentiful supply of milk, we
-dismounted, and, fastening our steeds to the gates, we seated ourselves
-under the shade of two trees, upon the inviting grass, which, like the
-smiles of the world, proved but too treacherous; many a scream and laugh
-announcing that the boggy soil had paid no respect to the garments of
-either sex.  Stones were therefore procured, and, having ranged them in a
-magic circle, the whole party seated themselves to partake of the good
-cheer, which a sturdy Welshman had borne upon his shoulders, and who now
-advanced into the middle of the ring.  Knives and forks began to play
-with astonishing celerity.  Fowls, ham, tongue, &c., vanished as if by
-enchantment, and mirth and good humour added zest to the repast.
-
-Our lunch being concluded, we again mounted our horses, and commenced an
-ascent up a dank, cheerless hollow, called Bwlch Tyddiad.  Nothing can
-exceed the wildness of the scenery by which we were surrounded.  Huge
-masses of rock, riven by the thunderbolt, or loosened by the frost, lay
-scattered in every direction, while towering upon either side, the
-herbless mountains frowned, barren, black, grey, and terrible.
-
-Our horses, accustomed, I presume, to such excursions, picked their way
-with the greatest care and safety, and my “gallant brown” cleared every
-impediment, as if he had been foaled amongst the Alps, and loved them
-better than the verdant plain.  Drawing nearer to the top of the cliff,
-the shepherds had made a stair-like path of flat stones, along which our
-Cavalcade proceeded with caution; when suddenly we halted upon hearing
-the distant halloos of travellers ascending the opposite side of the
-mountain, and presently three persons, one of whom was leading a wearied
-animal by the bridle, became distinctly visible.  A shout of recognition
-from our party roused all the echoes of the surrounding hills.  The
-figures, as they became more distinct, seemed magically transported with
-myself into the heart of the Sierra Morena, where Cardenio, Don Quixote,
-and Sancho Panza, appeared to me in their proper persons; for never was
-description better realized than in the figures that now presented
-themselves.  The first was a handsome, well formed man, with light brown
-hair, which hung in plentiful thickness upon his shoulders; his untrimmed
-beard, joined by overhanging mustachios, and the two being united to the
-upper growth by a pair of whiskers, the luxuriance of which showed they
-were permitted to grow in uninterrupted freedom.  His throat was bare,
-and his dress negligent.  The second figure that attracted my attention,
-was a very tall and extremely thin young man, with a serious cast of
-features that would have done honour to the knight of the woful
-countenance.  In his hand he led a jaded hack, which in the ascent seemed
-to have yielded up three parts of its existence.  Here then was the
-Rosinante of Cervantes in a breathing form; while, by his side, a short
-good-humoured little man, with a large portmanteau buckled on his back,
-walked like a faithful squire, and made an admirable substitute for the
-immortal Sancho; and, as he turned his eyes from precipice to glen, it
-required no great stretch of imagination to think they were wandering in
-search of his beloved Dapple.  We met upon a patch of green moss; and
-here our hamper was again unpacked, to cheer the hearts of these
-toil-worn travellers.
-
-By their advice we ascended to the summit of the mountain, the view from
-which was grand and extensive.  To the eastward, a vast country lies
-beneath, bounded by Cader Idris, the two Arrenigs, and a long range of
-mountains.  Immediately under the lofty eminence upon which we rested,
-was a small round lake and the pass Ardudwy, which exceeds even the
-celebrated Llanberis in rugged grandeur.  The way by which our new
-companions ascended was both laborious and dangerous; but they would not
-have sacrificed the prospect now presented to them on any account.  North
-and south the eye glances over the summits of wild mountains, and to the
-west the Carnarvonshire chain, cut in two, as it were, by a high
-mountain, immediately before us, forms the shore of a noble sheet of
-water, resembling a spacious lake, where the sea stretches its arm into
-the Vale of Maentwrog, out of Cardigan Bay.  The declining sun gave us
-warning that it was time to quit these wilds, and make the best of our
-way to the foot of the mountain.
-
-The return is extremely hazardous on horseback.  The ladies of the party
-therefore, resigning their steeds to the conduct of some mountaineers,
-and the gentlemen leading their horses by the bridle, commenced the
-descent.  But as I could not from lameness advantage myself by like
-caution, and feeling confident in the tact, strength, and docility of my
-favourite, I led the way, without experiencing the slightest symptom of
-uneasiness.
-
-When we had proceeded about half way down, a circumstance occurred that
-occasioned some unpleasantness.  A horse had broken loose from one of the
-leaders, and at full speed came galloping down the steep and rugged
-descent.  The animal conducted by the tall, thin gentlemen before
-described, started as his fellow quadruped rushed by him, and, freeing
-himself from control, dashed after him at an alarming pace, leaving his
-late master, with eyes starting out of their sockets, and mouth wide open
-with affright, his arms spread out, and his whole frame in convulsions of
-terror, upon the top of a large stone, ludicrously bewildered.  My steed,
-evincing the truth of the proverb, “evil communications,” &c., for a
-moment lost his presence of mind, and despising my efforts to restrain
-him, bounded over sundry perilous rocky fragments in desperate pursuit.
-However, by divers forcible arguments, I at length succeeded in
-convincing him of his error, and he returned to his duty.
-
-The two runaways were soon out of sight, and as we concluded they had
-broken their necks, we moved rather solemnly to the bottom of the hollow,
-where our fears were dissipated, by finding them quietly browsing in the
-green meadows, where we had before seated ourselves at pic-nic.  All here
-remounted; the sun’s rays still lingering upon the heights of
-Carreg-y-Saeth, but the pool below looked black and cheerless.  As we
-proceeded, the beautiful calm light of evening, the cool and refreshing
-air, “the shard borne beetle, with his drowsy hum,” the forest flies and
-midges dancing in the clear ether, the murmuring of mountain streams, and
-the joyous notes of our little party, uniting with the sharp tones of our
-horses’ shoes, clinking against the rocky fragments, formed a combination
-of pleasing sounds and images in this romantic solitude, which I shall
-ever remember with feelings of interest and delight.  After riding about
-three miles, surrounded by every charm that could make the time pass
-pleasantly, we arrived at the place of parting.  A road branching to the
-right led directly to Harlech, a distance of about two miles; and here,
-with a feeling of regret, I hardly ever before experienced, I took leave
-of my kind conductor, and his agreeable friends, a man being appointed to
-walk with me as far as Harlech, for the purpose of taking back his
-master’s horse.
-
-Slowly and sadly I pursued my solitary ride, nor did I once address my
-attendant, until I arrived at the inn, where, dismounting, I committed to
-his charge my gallant supporter throughout the day.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER V.
-
-
-Harlech.—The Inn.—The Castle.—Anecdote of Davydd ab Ivan ab Einion.—Road
-to Maentwrog.—View.—A Persevering Cobbler.—The Oakeley Arms.—Angling
-Stations.—Road to Tremadoc.—Tan y Bwlch.—Port Madoc Breakwater and
-Mountain Scenery described.—Tremadoc.—Tan yr Allt.—Pont Aber Glas
-Lyn.—Beddgelert.—The Inn.
-
-    “Rise from thy haunt, dread genius of the clime,
-    Rise, magic spirit of forgotten time!
-    ’Tis thine to burst the mantling clouds of age,
-    And fling new radiance on Tradition’s page:
-    See at thy call from Fable’s varied store,
-    In shadowy train the mingled visions pour;
-    Here the wild Briton ’mid his wilder reign,
-    Spurns the proud yoke and scorns the oppressor’s chain,
-    Here wizard Merlin, where the mighty fell,
-    Waves the dark wand and chants the thrilling spell.”
-
-                                                      PRIZE POEM, T. S. S.
-
-
-
-HARLECH.
-
-
-THE Blue Lion Inn, built by Sir R. W. Vaughan, for the accommodation of
-travellers and tourists, is most delightfully situated.  A carriage road
-from the north leads round to the front, which faces the sea; and forming
-a semicircle, permits the vehicles to drive, through a gate on the south
-end of the house, again into the high road.  Great taste is displayed in
-the erection of this pleasant building; the parapet wall, with its
-circular turrets, in which seats are placed for the accommodation of
-visitors, and the terrace with its neat shrubberies.  I must also
-acknowledge, that the kind attention of the landlord and his servants
-deserves the highest commendation.
-
-The view from the terrace is indescribably beautiful.  The sea lies
-stretched beneath; the majestic ruins of Harlech Castle stand upon a
-rocky base, frowning in solitary grandeur upon the right; and beyond, the
-long line of Carnarvonshire hills projects, like Cambria’s lance,
-forbidding the waves to make further inroads upon her territories.
-
-Pwllheli and Port Madoc are distinctly visible from this spot; and the
-lovers of fine prospects may remain at the Blue Lion for a week, without
-wishing to stray further than the terrace in search of the sublime and
-beautiful.  The continual variety of light and shadow, with which the
-mountains are alternately robed, the freshness of the air, and the solemn
-majesty of the ruined fortress, form altogether a volume for the mind to
-peruse with intense and unwearied interest.
-
-
-
-HARLECH CASTLE.
-
-
-                        [Picture: Harlech Castle]
-
-The present castle was built by Edward the First in 1283, upon the ruins
-of one erected by Maelgwn Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, in 530.  It was
-seized by the Welsh hero, Owen Glyndwr, during his struggle for freedom
-against Henry the Fourth, and was retaken, about four years afterwards,
-by an army sent by that monarch into Wales.  After the defeat of Henry
-the Sixth at Northampton, this castle afforded a retreat for his queen;
-but being hotly pursued by the Lord Stanley, she was compelled to fly
-from hence with great precipitation, leaving her jewels and other
-valuables behind her.
-
-In 1468, this place was in possession of Davydd ab Ivan ab Einion, a man
-of singular strength and beauty, and of unconquerable bravery.  Being a
-firm friend to the Lancastrian line, the Earl William of Pembroke was
-despatched to reduce the fortress; and after encountering incredible
-difficulties, marching through the very heart of the British Alps, he at
-length invested the castle, and committed the management of the siege to
-his brother Sir Richard Herbert, a man equal in size and prowess to the
-British commandant.  The reply of the Welshman, when called upon to
-surrender, deserves to be handed down as a specimen of bravery and
-loyalty.  He had never acknowledged the sovereignty of Edward; and for
-nine years had defied his threats.  His answer was in keeping with the
-line of conduct he had adopted: “Tell your leader,” said he to the
-messenger, “that some years ago I held a castle in France against its
-besiegers so long, that all the old women in Wales talked of me: tell
-your commander, that I intend to defend this Welsh castle now, until all
-the old women in France shall hear of it.”
-
-Famine, however, at last subdued him; but he yielded only upon honourable
-terms, Sir Richard pledging himself for his safety.  The king at first
-refused to subscribe to the conditions; but Sir Richard, with a spirit
-that cannot be sufficiently applauded, instantly informed his majesty
-that he must take his own life first; for if he lived he would certainly
-replace the Welsh chieftain in his strong hold again.  The king was too
-well acquainted with the value of Sir Richard’s services and scrupulous
-honour, to persist in his unjust intentions.  He, therefore, ratified the
-conditions, and pardoned the chief.  But the brave Englishman was soon
-after recalled from his military command.
-
-In the civil wars of Charles I. Harlech Castle was the last that held out
-for the king, under the command of William Owain, who surrendered on the
-9th of March, 1647.
-
-Upon the side which faces the sea, the castle must have been impregnable;
-the walls are scarcely distinguishable from the rocky base, the whole
-being a continued surface of dark grey masonry; and the north and south
-sides appear nearly as inaccessible.  The gateway upon the eastward side
-is situated between two immense rounders, resembling those of Conway and
-Carnarvon.  The form of the castle is a square, each side measuring
-seventy yards, and at each corner is a round tower; but the turrets that
-were once attached to them the unsparing hand of Time has destroyed.
-Before the entrance is a deep fosse, cut in the solid rock; across which
-a drawbridge was constructed for security and convenience.
-
-The principal apartments are on the eastward, or entrance, side of the
-inner court.  The banqueting hall is opposite; the windows of which look
-out upon the green surface of the sea; and, on the right of the court,
-there formerly stood a small chapel; the ruins of which are still
-visible, the pointed windows remaining entire.  It is impossible to
-conceive a finer view than is obtained from the towers of Harlech Castle.
-With a clear atmosphere, the monarch of the Welsh mountains may be
-distinctly seen, towering above his subject hills.  The promontories of
-Lleyn, and Cricaeth Castle, are likewise objects of considerable
-interest; the latter forming a head to a long neck of land that juts into
-the sea from the Carnarvonshire coast, backed by a chain of noble
-mountains.  This castle likewise owes its foundation to Edward I.
-
-Harlech is one of those places the traveller leaves with regret, and a
-feeling that he can never see any so beautiful again; and from this place
-to the village of Maentwrog, the road increases in beauty every mile.
-
-The Bay of Cardigan, expanding to the ocean, lies beneath, on the left;
-upon the right, wild rocks and woody hills alternately diversify the
-prospect, and, approaching the northern extremity of the bay, the Traeth
-Mawr and Traeth Bâch, two arms of the sea (the former running up to Port
-Madoc, and the latter into the Vale of Maentwrog), are noble objects.
-
-The Traeth Bâch, bounded by mountains upon either side, prepares the
-tourist for the heavenly quietude which reigns eternally in the bosom of
-this earthly paradise; and about two miles from the village, near a farm
-house called Cemlyn, one of the most beautiful views of the valley lies
-stretched before him.  A woody dingle opens on the right, down which the
-Velin Rhyd rushes impetuously, mingling its bright waters with the
-smoothly meandering Dwyryd, which commingling, flow gracefully into
-Cardigan Bay.
-
-                     [Picture: The Vale of Maentwrog]
-
-In front, and upon the right of the vale, lies the little picturesque
-village of Maentwrog, reposing at the foot of a lofty mountain.  Fine
-green meadow lands enrich the centre of the valley, through which the
-river, like a silver serpent, “drags its slow length along.”  Upon the
-opposite side is seen the mansion of Tan y Bwlch, backed by a mountain
-forest, and ornamented by a noble terrace in front, with pleasure grounds
-and walks, which the eye loves to rest upon.
-
-The road to Festiniog, at the extreme point of the landscape, winds up
-the enclosing hills that fill up the back ground.  To be appreciated, the
-view must be seen: the most glowing description would fall incalculably
-short of the reality.
-
-At this spot I was accosted by a very inquisitive personage.
-
-“Fine evening, sir.”
-
-“Yes.”
-
-“Walking far to-day, sir?”
-
-“Yes.”
-
-“A great many gentlemen come from London to see this valley, sir.”
-
-“I suppose so,” (trying to shake him off, but it would not do.)
-
-“You come from London, I think, sir.”
-
-“Why do you think so?”
-
-“Only because a great many London people come this way, sir.”
-
-“But do not many other travellers come this road, who are not Londoners?”
-
-“Oh, yes, sir! but I took you for a Londoner by the cut of your coat.
-You’ve come a long way to-day, sir?”
-
-“I have, but how should you know that?”
-
-“By the condition of your boots, sir.”
-
-This was a hit I did not anticipate; for, truth to say I was nearly
-bootless, at least the _soles_ had nearly left their _bodies_, upper
-leathers I mean, and stood mortally in need of regeneration; and, as I
-had not provided myself with a second pair, thinking they would prove
-cumbersome in my knapsack, his remark was felt from toe to heel.
-
-“You’ll want these repaired, I dare say, sir, while you remain at the
-Oakeley Arms—comfortable inn—capital beds, sir.”
-
-“Why I think I shall, my friend; perhaps you can recommend me to a
-cobbler, in the village yonder,” (pointing to Maentwrog.)
-
-“I am a boot maker, sir, in the village, and have cobbled, as you are
-pleased to call it, the soles of all strangers in need, for the last
-twenty years.  My father performed that office before me; and I may say
-my all (awl) of life depends upon the gentlemen who visit our beautiful
-valley.”
-
-“You are not employed then by the inhabitants of your native village?”
-
-“I _was_, sir; but a new comer, who wrote over his door ‘leather cutter,’
-cut me out; for I never found business enough to set up a shop, and so,
-sir, I am obliged to watch for customers, to keep up my trade.  Those
-boots of yours, sir, will give me dinners for half the week, if you will
-only let me give them welts, soles, and heel-taps.  You’ve got a fine
-foot, sir.”
-
-This piece of gross flattery did not prevent my telling him to follow me
-to the inn, and receive the reward of his perseverance and industry.
-
-
-
-THE OAKELEY ARMS.  TAN Y BWLCH.
-
-
-I was tired, and gladly resigned my dilapidated boots to the care of my
-_soles’_ physician; who, with a most respectful bow, promised to let me
-have them by eight o’clock on the following morning.
-
-Oh the comforts of a clean room, clean sheets, and a good bed!  These I
-experienced at the Oakeley Arms; and I arose refreshed, and eager to
-commence my walk; but I was doomed to disappointment, for on drawing up
-the blind of my window, a dark and dismal morning presented itself, the
-rain falling in torrents, and the lovely valley transformed into a gloomy
-gorge of rolling clouds.  What’s to be done? thought I; jump into bed
-again, answered my careful spirit.  I obeyed the suggestion, and slept
-another hour, when I again awoke, and on inspection found the day still
-melancholy and tearful.
-
-I descended to the breakfast room, and by the time I had finished that
-necessary meal the sun shone out gloriously.  Having discharged my bill,
-and paid the loquacious cobbler for repairing my boots, I proceeded to
-view the grounds of Tan y Bwlch, the seat of Mrs. Oakeley.  The name
-signifies “Below the Pass;” it is situated on the side of a hill which
-overlooks the vale.
-
-From the terrace of this mansion you command one of the most romantic
-views in Wales.  Harlech Castle is visible upon the right; the
-Merionethshire mountains tower in the distance, and the entire valley,
-from Festiniog to Traeth Bychan, watered by the river Dwyryd, is
-interesting beyond description.  Lord Lyttleton tells us, in his
-observations upon this valley, that an honest Welsh farmer, who died
-there at 105 years of age, had by his first wife thirty children, ten by
-his second, and four by his third.  His eldest son was eighty-one years
-older than his youngest, and 800 persons, descended from his body,
-attended his funeral.
-
-I should be doing injustice to the worthy landlord of the Maentwrog Inn,
-whose house I used upon my second visit to this delightful valley, did I
-not speak in praise of his attention to the comforts of all travellers.
-Good beds, civil waiters, excellent fare, and cheap charges, render this
-one of the very best inns in Wales.  And hear, ye lingering tourists! you
-may have bed and board for the inconsiderable sum of one guinea per week,
-which I think a very considerable temptation to remain at it a month, for
-there is sufficient in the neighbourhood to interest the most phlegmatic
-of Adam’s progeny.  From hence may be visited the following interesting
-places.  The village of Festiniog, three miles, where there are two good
-inns, the Pengwern Arms, and the Newborough Arms, where post horses and
-cars are always in readiness; there is also a good boarding-house kept by
-Miss Owen.  The Falls of Cynvael, two and a half; the slate quarries,
-five and a half; the cataracts of the Rhaiadr Du and Ravenfall, two
-miles; Llyn Llyanyrch, three and a half, where the trout are excellent;
-Cwmorddin Pool, lies to the northward, about four and a half miles, to
-which the tourist may be conducted by the railroad.  There is a house at
-each end of the lake where the angler will find accommodation from the
-hospitable owners for a trifling remuneration.  Llyn Mannod contains very
-large trout, and is six miles from Maentwrog, and Llyn Morwynion is about
-the same distance.
-
-                [Picture: The Raven Fall, near Maentwrog]
-
-I proceeded along the lower road by the north side of the salts, as the
-inhabitants of the valley call the arm of the sea, which here has the
-appearance of a lake begirt with mountains, craggy cliffs, and shadowing
-woods.  Here I bade adieu to the delightful valley of Festiniog, and
-after walking about four miles along a pleasant road, a noble sheet of
-water met my eyes, which appeared to be hemmed in by inaccessible
-mountains, differing in form from those I had left behind, being more
-conical, and some shooting upwards like pyramids into the clouds.
-
-As I proceeded I discovered it to be the Traeth Mawr, which, as the sea
-is hidden from us by a breakwater, has the appearance of a broad lake.
-
-Upon this breakwater, which extends across the bay, is a railroad which
-conveys slates from the quarries at Festiniog to Port Madoc, where it is
-calculated ten thousand tons are shipped annually.  Port Madoc receives
-its name from the late William Alexander Maddocks, Esq., of Tan-yr-allt,
-as does the town of Tremadoc.
-
-The extraordinary efforts of this enterprising man caused him to be
-looked up to as the Prince of the soil.  He redeemed, by constructing an
-embankment of nearly one mile in length from north to south, across the
-Traeth Mawr, at the eastern extremity of Cardigan Bay, a tract of more
-than 2,700 acres of land.  This enterprise was completed in 1811, and
-cost upwards of £100,000; so that, with the lands previously recovered,
-no less than 7000 acres have been regained, 6000 of which are cultivated.
-
-The view from the breakwater is perhaps the finest in North Wales for
-distant mountain scenery.  When the tourist has reached the centre of it,
-let him turn his back upon the sea, and upon his right he will perceive a
-hill, called Plâs Newydd, from which a range of Alpine scenery stretches
-up to the monarch of Snowdonia, who towers pre-eminent in the distance.
-Upon his left another range, commencing with a hill called Moel y Gêst,
-leads up to the same grand object, and the extraordinary variety
-displayed in the formation of these wonderful masses with the varying
-lights and shadows that adorn them with sunny crowns or misty mantles,
-produces a sublimity of effect I never before experienced.  A bridge
-joins the breakwater to the quay at Port Madoc, under which the tide
-rushes with great impetuosity, covering a vast extent of ground at the
-flood, which is left nearly dry at the ebb.  Proceeding along the road,
-in a short time the tourist obtains a peep at the little town of
-Tremadoc; but before reaching it he perceives the church, an elegant
-building, with a tower and lofty spire, which forms a principal object in
-the landscape.  The archway, under which the church is approached, is a
-beautiful specimen of workmanship, and does equal credit to the taste of
-the founder and execution of the builder.  Divine service is read here in
-the English language every Sunday, which is a great accommodation to the
-English families, residing in the neighbourhood, as there is no other
-church within twenty miles where it is so performed.
-
-
-
-TREMADOC,
-
-
-or the town of Madoc, is built quadrangularly, and in the centre of the
-square is a column with a pedestal, round which are twelve steps.  On the
-eastern side is a commodious market house, above which are the assembly
-rooms.  A market is held here on Fridays, and the Barmouth and Carnarvon
-coach passes through three times a-week.
-
-Having refreshed myself with a luncheon of cold meat and a salad, I
-trudged off, in spite of wind and weather, which threatened a speedy
-commencement of hostilities.  Large masses of vapoury clouds were driving
-over head; the swallows skimmed the surface of the river, and brushed the
-standing corn with their swift wings, as they flew along in the pursuit
-of their prey; and the wind blew loud and shrilly, as in the month of
-November.  At a short distance from the town, upon the Beddgelert road,
-is a lofty hill, the base of which is planted with fir trees, through
-which a path winds up to the mansion of Tan-yr-Allt, the late beautiful
-residence of Mr. Maddocks.  I had not proceeded far when I was compelled
-to seek shelter in a hollow, of which there are many at the feet of the
-enormous precipices which overhang the road.
-
-The transient storm having passed away, and sunshine once more lighting
-up the valley, I again pushed forward.  The Merionethshire mountains upon
-the right, decked in their countless hues of rock and heather, over which
-the departing storm swept with its rolling clouds, in dark magnificence,
-formed a noble subject for the artist’s pencil.  The road is elevated
-above the meadows which enrich the centre of the vale; and the river,
-which flows through them, having risen above its banks, and spread itself
-over a considerable tract of country, resembled an extensive lake.
-
-About half way between Tremadoc and Beddgelert, is a small dingle upon
-the left of the road, with a neat lodge at the entrance, and a path
-leading up to the shrubbery, beneath which a mountain stream flows
-rapidly, and empties itself into the Dwyryd.  As I proceeded, numerous
-falls dashed down the mountains, and plunging into hollows underneath the
-road, emerged again upon the other side, I was several times forced to
-take shelter from the heavy showers under fallen blocks of rock; and
-once, as the storm abated, and I looked anxiously out to see if it was
-clear enough to pursue my journey, a glorious rainbow stretched across
-the valley, its points resting upon the mountains on either side.  I now
-proceeded at a rapid pace, and the river became more deep and narrow, and
-the circling eddies, as they floated down the stream, announced that I
-was approaching the fall of a great body of water when suddenly—whizz,
-whirr, clash, splash, dash, astounding and astonishing—
-
-
-
-ABER GLAS LYN
-
-
-with all its world of horrors, burst at once upon the view.  I felt a
-tremulous sensation within, me; a contraction of the muscles of my
-throat; an hysterical sob and a desire to weep.
-
-    “White foaming, thundering, falls the boiling flood;
-    Rocks clash, and echo mocks the horrid din,
-    While man appalled, stands breathless, in amaze,
-    And, filled with awe, exalts his thoughts to Him,
-    Who was, who is, and aye must be supreme!”
-
-Just above the bridge is a semi-circular rock, which forms a salmon leap,
-over which the salmon, at spawning time, first lodge themselves at the
-height of five or six yards.  Proceeding through the pass, at every step
-new wonders met the eye.  The late heavy rains had swollen the mountain
-waterfalls, and caused a terrific torrent to roar and struggle through a
-narrow channel; for the mountains, forming this southern end of the vale,
-approach so near to each other, that they only afford a contracted flow
-for the river, and a narrow road, while their rocky sides rise so
-perpendicularly, that their summits are scarcely farther distant from
-each other than their foundations.  The rushing river was a pure sheet of
-white; furious, uncontrollable; nothing but the immense blocks riven from
-the mountain’s craggy sides could withstand its dreadful impetuosity.  A
-few stunted fir and larch trees at the commencement of the pass were seen
-starting from the dark clefts upon either side, which threw a deeper
-shade upon this awful valley.
-
-                       [Picture: Pont Aber Glaslyn]
-
-Cradock calls this pass “the noblest specimen of the _finely horrid_ the
-eye can possibly behold.  The poet,” he continues, “has not described,
-nor the painter pictured so gloomy a retreat.  ’Tis the last approach to
-the mansion of Pluto, through the regions of Despair.”  I could have
-stopped for hours to admire this splendid example of the sublimity of
-Nature, but time pressed, so I pushed on to Beddgelert which is not more
-than a mile and a half from the bridge.  A solitary mountain ash which
-grows about half way up the pass, is the sole bright thing in this abode
-of terror, and looks like Beauty in desolation.  Emerging from the pass
-there is a stone which is called the chair of Rhys Gôch o’r Eryri; a
-famous mountain bard who lived in the time of Owen Glyndwr.  He resided
-at the entrance into the Traeth Mawr Sands, from whence he used to walk,
-and sitting upon this stone compose his poems.  He died in 1420, at the
-advanced age of 120 years; he was a gentleman of property, and was buried
-in the ancient priory at
-
-
-
-BEDDGELERT.
-
-
-Some are of opinion that this word should be written Celert, or Cilert,
-Bedd-Cilert, or Cilert’s Grave; supposing that a monk or saint of that
-name was buried here.  Another celebrated bard was entombed at this
-place, named Davydd Nanmor, who died about the year 1460.
-
-The Goat is an excellent inn, and every attention the traveller can
-desire is paid with the greatest celerity.  Twenty post horses are kept
-at this inn for travellers, and eight or ten ponies for the accommodation
-of those visitors who wish to ascend Snowdon with ease and safety.
-
-At nine o’clock, I strolled from the inn to the bridge.  It was a lovely
-evening; there was no moon, but the clear sky displayed its burning host
-in beautiful array.  No breath of air disturbed the silent slumbers of
-the peaceful woods.  The lull of rippling waters alone struck upon the
-ear, yielding a solemn tone like the deep swell of the organ, breaking
-upon the deepest solitude.
-
-In such a situation how indescribable is the feeling which takes
-possession of us!  What language can express, what tongue can utter it!
-My very breathing seemed to disturb the excessive sweetness of nature’s
-melody.
-
-In a field near the church yard are two grey stones overhung with bushes,
-pointing out the grave of “Gelert,” Llewelyn’s hound.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VI.
-
-
-Departure from Beddgelert.—Vortigern’s Hill.—Snowdon.—Llyn
-Gwynant.—Gwrydd.—Public Houses.—Lake Fishing.—Pass of Llanberis.—The
-Lakes.—The Castle of Dolbadarn.—View of the Lakes.—The Church of
-Llanberis.—Story of little John Closs.—Capel Curig.—Moel Siabod.—Castle
-of Dolwyddelan.—Falls of Benglog.—Llyn Ogwen.—Llyn Idwal.—Route to
-Llanrwst.—Falls of Rhaiadr y Wennol.—Bettws y Coed.—The
-Church.—Monuments.—Pont y Pair.
-
-    “Oh, who hath stood on Snowdon’s side,
-    And glanced o’er Mona’s virgin pride;
-    And gazed on fatal Moel y don,
-    But thought of those once there undone?
-    When Saxons and their foreign band,
-    Were crushed by the sons of the mountain land.”
-
-                                                  T. J. LLEWELYN PRICHARD.
-
-ON the following morning I quitted the inn, where every attention was
-shown that a traveller could desire, and proceeded over the Ivy bridge,
-through which the Gwynant flowed, deep and smooth as glass, without an
-obstruction to ruffle its clear waters, that glided along, kissing its
-verdant banks, like the stream of a happy life.  Quietude reigned in this
-region uninterrupted.  About half a mile from Beddgelert, a rocky
-eminence projects into the road, called Vortigern’s Hill, or Dinas Emrys,
-a magician, who was sent for to this place by Vortigern, when he found
-himself hated by his subjects, and fled from their just anger to this
-secluded spot.  Passing this memorable place, a round clump of rock
-attracts the eye, rising as it were in the centre of the valley, and
-called Moel Wyn.  Looking backward, Moel Hebog, the Hawk Hill, rises
-majestically and closes up the entrance to Beddgelert.  Moel Siabod
-towers in front, and, as we pursued our delightful path about two miles
-and a half from Beddgelert, an opening of the hills upon the left
-displayed a deep gorge, and the base of Snowdon, whose high peak, rising
-in the unclouded skies, held up the holy symbol of Christianity, as if in
-adoration of the Creator.  At length I reached Llyn Dinas, a lake of
-about three quarters of a mile in extent, through which the Gwynant runs;
-it is surrounded by lofty mountains of a deeper tint than is usually seen
-upon the Welsh hills.  A beautifully situated cottage here at the far end
-of the lake, belonging to Mr. Sampson, nestles among the protecting
-woods, and forms a delightful object.  The river which feeds the lake,
-winds through the verdant and undulating grounds which form a miniature
-park between the cottage and the lake.  Following up the course of the
-stream, I left Llyn Dinas behind me, and proceeded by a gradual ascent
-through the most delightful scenery I ever beheld, until I caught
-glimpses through the plantations of
-
-
-
-LLYN GWYNANT,
-
-
-and after a while beheld it stretching beneath me upon my left hand.  The
-valley forms a bowl among the hills.  The bottom is a small grassy plain,
-dotted with trees, which has obtained the appellation of Beauty sleeping
-in the lap of Terror.  The mountains that surround the vale have a wild
-and rugged appearance.  As I proceeded along the road towards the head of
-the valley, a horn was sounded from the mountain, and I perceived a Welsh
-girl standing upon a projecting eminence: bare headed and bare footed was
-this nymph of Cambria; her cheeks were swelled out with her occupation,
-and she looked like a female Boreas, bursting with the wind she was
-sending forth by degrees to alarm the world.
-
-            [Picture: Snowdon, from the Pass of Llyn Gwynant]
-
-She eyed me with glances of curiosity all the while, and I thought she
-could perhaps give me some information about the valley, which might be
-interesting; so quitting the direct road, I scrambled up the hill side,
-and asked her the meaning of her sounding the horn so loudly?  But she
-either did not, or would not, understand me; and after vainly
-endeavouring to extract anything from her, I quietly sat myself down,
-delighted by the splendid view beneath me.
-
-Having nearly reached the extremity of this valley, I gazed, from my
-elevated situation, upon the dark and perpendicular rocks on the opposite
-side; and towering in the air immediately over the centre of the valley
-was a hawk with expanded wings, apparently motionless.  Presently it rose
-a little higher, but without the slightest visible exertion, then stooped
-again, mounted once more, and, as fast as the eye could follow, swept
-round the huge buttresses of sharp ridged cliffs, that hang over the
-entrance of the Pass of Llanberis.
-
-As Llyn Gwynant is gradually shut out from the lingering gaze of the
-traveller, (who, it may be said, during the whole of the ascent, should
-turn his eyes behind him,) and he at length looks forward in the
-direction of Llanberis, a new scene of grandeur bursts upon him.  He has
-left beauty behind in its loveliest form;—but the sublime and wonderful
-now call forth all the springs of admiration.
-
-Snowdon again appears in all his splendour!  Mountains that by comparison
-looked like hillocks rise round his regal waist, in groups numerous and
-picturesque.  The deep black crags that form the western side of the
-valley make a magnificent fore-ground, and open here like nature’s gates,
-to disclose the secrets of her bosom.  The accompanying etching gives an
-admirable idea of this imposing scene.  About a mile from hence is a
-place called Gwrydd, where there is a small public house, with a sign
-signifying nothing.  Here I resolved to “rough it” for a day, intending
-to fish the lakes, situated immediately above this spot, as nature’s
-cisterns to water the pleasant valleys.
-
-The public house possesses a small parlour, carpeted, with half a dozen
-hair-bottomed chairs, and a mahogany table.  A silent but most
-importunate monitor urged me to discover what food this mountain chalet
-could produce.  “Eggs and bacon,” was the expected reply to my question;
-and I soon had the pleasure of seeing this humble, but most grateful,
-fare placed before me, and in spite of the indifferent style of the
-cooking, I partook of it eagerly, having that incomparable sauce “a good
-appetite.”
-
-After I had repaired my broken rod, I ascended the mountain at the back
-of the house, and arrived at a large oval lake, in which the black and
-sterile rocks that form inaccessible ramparts on one side are reflected
-in its generally unruffled surface.  The scene is wild and desolate, such
-as Despair herself would select for her abode.  There are plenty of fish
-in this lake, but they are all small and extremely shy.  I remained upon
-its margin until the shadows of night gave me warning to attend to my
-safety, and make the best of my way to my lodging, where I speedily
-ascended by a ladder-like staircase to a kind of cock-loft, which was
-divided into two compartments, one for the accommodation of the family,
-man, wife, children, and servants, the other fitted up for travellers.
-Sleep soon overtook me, and I should have continued to sleep, I have no
-doubt, until breakfast time, had I not been awakened by a trifling
-accident
-
-    “At the mid hour of night, when stars were weeping,”
-
-and ghosts of the mighty walk upon the hills, with a variety of other
-interesting objects that poets and nursery-maids have described
-infinitely better than I can pretend to do, I was visited by a dream in
-which the ghost of a lobster popped his head out of a salad bowl, and
-demanded upon what authority I had presumed to make mince-meat of his
-body, when a loud crash roused me from my slumber, and I found myself,
-with my knees doubled up to my chin, upon the floor; the bedstead having
-broken in the middle, and deposited me in this unenviable position.  I
-need not say that for the remaining part of the night I was wholly left
-to waking reveries, and uncontrollable desires for the blessings of
-daylight, which at last greeted my longing eyes, and hurrying on my
-clothes, I descended, and walked forth to scent the morning air in the
-direction of Llanberis.  The mists rolled like troubled lakes in the
-valleys, and the black bleak rocks looked cheerless and forbidding.  The
-breeze was keen and piercing, and I started at a round pace to get myself
-warm by exercise.  Having reached the summit of the roadway, I plunged at
-once into the pass of Llanberis, wild and gloomy.  The precipices on my
-left looked truly terrible, like the shadow of death wrapped in a vapoury
-shroud.  This pass is above four miles in length, and is a fine specimen
-of rugged grandeur.  Not a single tree enlivens with its verdure this
-tremendous chasm.  Range above range of rocks tower over the traveller
-upon either side, bearing various tints of black, brown, green, and
-purple, according to the disposition of the sun’s rays, and the distances
-of the ponderous masses.  The rocks on both sides are nearly
-perpendicular; and, about two miles down the pass, the tourist will
-perceive some prodigious masses of rock upon his right hand that have
-fallen from the overhanging cliffs, which, when he pauses to look upon,
-will strike a feeling of terror into his heart, as he inwardly exclaims,
-“could any one have witnessed the descent of this tremendous mass?”  The
-accompanying sketch gives a most accurate description.
-
-                       [Picture: Pass of Llanberis]
-
-We soon obtained a view of the lakes that spread themselves before
-us—viz.: Llyn Peris and Llyn Padarn, with the romantic castle of
-Dolbadarn upon its rocky promontory.  On issuing from a pass on our left,
-as I was informed, is a valuable copper mine, and a stream of water
-conveyed over the road, by the aid of a wooden conduit, into the lake,
-which stream was for the use of the mine.
-
-At length, I reached the inn, called Victoria, ordered breakfast, and
-procured an admittance to the Castle of Dolbadarn.  This ancient fortress
-is supposed to have been built by one Padarn Beisrudd ab Idwal, for the
-purpose of guarding the mountain pass which I had just quitted.  A single
-round tower is all that remains of the castle, although traces are left
-of a much more extensive building.  Here Owen Gôch was imprisoned twenty
-years by his brother Llewelyn, the last Prince of Wales of the British
-line; and an ode is still extant, written by Howel Voel, wherein his
-captivity is affectionately lamented.
-
-The view from the castle is truly sublime, comprising the two lakes, and
-the tremendous range of mountains, that seem to admit of no outlet from
-the vale.  But the most beautiful prospect is from the lake in front of
-the promontory on which the castle stands, and is reflected in the smooth
-waters beneath, while the majestic Snowdon towers in the distance.
-
-Returning to the Victoria, I partook of the refreshments provided, and
-then retracing my steps, I visited the little rustic church of Llanberis,
-which, for its simplicity, is well worthy of attention.  Upon entering
-the doorway, there is a small stone font placed upon a pedestal which is
-approached by three stone steps: it resembles a small washing tub, and
-its cover is much like a copper-lid.  Advancing into the interior, the
-music loft is upon the left, under which is a dilapidated screen,
-opposite to the font.  A doorway in the centre of the screen leads into
-the body of the church, where ancient oaken benches are ranged upon
-either side, and the pulpit and communion table are immediately in front.
-The old arched roof is held together by iron pins, which project on each
-side of the timbers, and the whole interior is whitewashed.  The only pew
-in the church adjoins the communion table, both of which have suffered
-materially by the worm and time.  The few monuments in this simple
-structure are upon small slate slabs, about the size of a school-boy’s,
-and are hung up on the wooden beams.
-
-On leaving the church, there is a monumental slate slab on the left of
-the path, bearing the following inscription and verses:—
-
-                                  Underneath
-                              Lieth the remains
-                             Of John, the son of
-                            Robert Closs, who was
-                             Interred Decr. 1st,
-                             1805, aged 7 years.
-
-    Ar ben mynydd dydd-y-daith oî howyder
-             A che dodd y maith
-    Gadewais (gwelais goeg waith)
-    Drueni’r Byd ar unwaith.
-    Oerfel fu uchel a chos, i angau
-    Llyn ingol i’mddangos
-    Mantell niwl mewn tywyll nos
-    A dychryniad dechreunos.
-
-Upon returning to my inn at Gwrydd, I discovered that the landlady was
-sister to little John Closs; and from her I learnt the story of his
-melancholy fate.  It is as follows:—
-
-John was a pretty boy, about seven years of age, with fair hair and blue
-eyes, of a sweet temper, adored by his parents, and loving them most
-affectionately in return.  Indeed little John Closs was the talk of the
-parish, and held up as a pattern of filial love and reverence to all the
-children in the village.  His uncle had a small farm at Nant Bettws; and
-John’s father having sent him to reside there for a few months, the fond
-mother would often cross the mountain to see her son and her sister,
-returning home in the evening of the same day.  Little John got tired of
-living away from home, and one night, after his mother had quitted the
-cottage to return to Llanberis, he wept so bitterly, and prayed so
-earnestly to be permitted to follow her home, that the good people at
-Bettws permitted him to try and overtake her, which they considered he
-might easily do, as she had not left the house ten minutes before he
-started.
-
-The mother reached Llanberis in safety; but the poor boy lost his way in
-a snow storm on Moel Einion, and was not heard of for more than a week
-afterwards; when, one day, a man crossing the mountain, found the child
-stretched on the ground in a slumbering position, his face towards the
-earth, buried in his hands, and quite dead.
-
-The following morning, I proceeded towards Capel Curig, but this road is
-very uninteresting.  The tourist is, however, amply gratified, if it
-happen to be tolerably clear weather, on his arrival at an ancient stone
-bridge which crosses a stream that tumbles over some black rocks on the
-right, and winds its way in graceful variety, forming a pleasing spot to
-rest upon.  Looking back towards Llanberis, the mountain scenery is very
-fine; and I here took my farewell look of Snowdon arid Snowdonia.
-
-
-
-CAPEL CURIG,
-
-
-is in the parish of Llandegai.  It derives its name from a man who was
-canonized, and founded a chapel in this mountainous region.  He was the
-son of Llawdden Lluyddog, of Edinburgh.  There are here two lakes, and
-some tolerable fishing may be had, if you take a boat; but from the banks
-it is quite useless to attempt it.  From this spot, excursions may be
-made to Llanberis, and
-
-
-
-MOEL SIABOD,
-
-
-from the summit of which a magnificent view is obtained of the mountains
-of Snowdonia, of nine different lakes, and the sea beyond Carnarvon.  The
-distance from the inn to the apex of the mountain does not exceed three
-miles and a half.
-
-
-
-DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE,
-
-
-situated about five miles from Capel Curig, and on the eastward side of
-Moel Siabod, deserves notice.  It is built upon a lofty rock, which on
-one side is inaccessible.  There are two square towers, and a court in
-the middle.  It is surrounded by mountains, and must in ancient days have
-been a fortress of considerable importance.  It is said, Llewelyn the
-Great was born in the castle; and this fact is sufficient to interest the
-stranger who is capable of appreciating and feeling reverence for a hero,
-who so long struggled with unwearied assiduity and unconquerable bravery
-for his native land, and who fought and died in the sacred cause of
-liberty.
-
-Within four miles of Capel Curig is an oval lake, of about three miles in
-circumference, called Llyn Ogwen which must by no means be overlooked.
-The scenery around is delightful and the waters are well stored with
-excellent trout of fine flavour, and surpassing all others in that
-respect, in the Carnarvonshire lakes.
-
-At the western end of this lake, are the Falls of Benglog, (being three
-in number and upwards of one hundred feet in height) from whence the
-waters take their course through Beavers’ Hollow, a wild and romantic
-glen, rocky and barren.
-
-Powell, in his History of North Wales, says, “In Tevi, above all the
-rivers in Wales, were, in Giraldus’s time, a great number of castells,
-which may be Englished beavers, and are called in Welsh avanc, which name
-onlie remaineth in Wales at this day, but what it is, very few can tell.
-It is a beast not much unlike an otter, but that it is bigger, all hearie
-saving the taile, which is like a fish taile as broad as a man’s hand.
-This beast useth as well the water as the land; and hath a voice, sharp
-teeth, and biteth cruellie till he perceives the bones cracke. * * * * He
-that will learn what strong nests they make, which Giraldus calleth
-castells, which they build upon the face of the water with great bowes,
-which they cut with their teeth, and how some lie upon their backs
-holding the wood with their fore feet, which the other draweth with a
-crosse stick, the which he holdeth in his mouth, to the water’s side, and
-other particularities of their natures, let him read Giraldus in his
-Topographie of Wales.”
-
-In this stream are found the fresh water muscle, which the country people
-call _cregyn diluw_, i.e. _shells_ _of the deluge_, supposed to have been
-brought into it by Noah’s flood.
-
-On the left of the lake are the Crags of Trivaen, huge shattered ridges,
-which overhang the pool and keep it in continual shadow, while the sides
-of Braich-ddu slope gradually to the lake’s margin.  The Francon
-Mountains, in the distance, are astonishing, and altogether this lake
-scene may be considered the finest in Carnarvonshire.
-
-A gentleman, in the winter of 1831, was driving along the road which
-skirts the borders of the lake, when upwards of a thousand tons of rock
-fell from the heights of Benglog, a little below the Falls, into Nant
-Francon, a short time after he had passed them, and he beheld one portion
-roll into the valley and river, while the other rested upon the road he
-had just travelled, rendering it impossible for any carriage to proceed
-by that route, until the obstruction was removed.
-
-A mile distant from Llyn Ogwen is another lake, well worthy of being
-visited, which lies in a deep hollow of the Glyder Mountains, called
-
-
-
-LLYN IDWAL,
-
-
-where the gloomy horror of the scenery is most appalling; particularly
-the terrific chasm of Twll Du, or the Black Cleft.  This spot derived its
-name from the following crime which was perpetrated here.
-
-Prince Owain Gwynedd, who reigned in the twelfth century, had a favourite
-called Nevydd Hardd, to whose care he intrusted his son Idwal, and who
-betraying his trust, commanded his son Dunawt to destroy the young
-prince, a crime which he too faithfully obeyed, perpetrating the cruel
-deed at this place.  But, being discovered, Nevydd and his posterity were
-degraded from the rank of nobles to bondsmen, and Rhun, the son of
-Dunawt, who again became possessed of the property of his ancestors,
-granted the ground upon which the Church of Llanrwst now stands, as an
-expiatory gift for the foul crime imputed to his father.  The grave of
-Idwal is still pointed out by the inhabitants, close to the lake.
-
-The scenery around is well calculated to inspire fear in the timid, as
-being adapted to the committal of atrocity of any kind.  Bleak, black,
-desolate, and stern, it thrills the beholder with an indescribable
-sensation of terror.
-
-The lake is well stored with fish, of a darker colour than those in the
-Ogwen, and of a less delicate flavour.  These lakes are in the parish of
-Llan Tegai, so called from its patron saint Tegai, the son of Ithel Hael,
-a nobleman of Armorica, brother to Credivael and Flewin, who built
-Penmynydd and Llanflewin, in Anglesey, about the year 636.  _See
-Rowland’s Mona Antiqua Rest_. _p._ 189.
-
-After a delightful day’s ramble amongst this wild and sublime scenery, I
-returned to the inn at Capel Curig, and on the following morning took the
-road to Llanrwst, which in a short time becomes particularly interesting.
-The dark and comfortless sterility is exchanged for a delightful valley,
-with luxuriant woods, which stretch to the summit of the hills upon
-either side; and near the two mile stone is one of the most picturesque
-cottages imaginable, placed on the side of a hill above the bridge, which
-crosses the river Llugwy, and gives additional beauty to the romantic
-dell.
-
-Half a mile beyond is an Observatory, which stands upon the highest point
-of a towering cliff, a portion of whose summit is clothed with purple
-heath, and the remainder presents a face of grey barren rock, while
-beneath a forest of rich foliage creeps from its base far up the craggy
-sides.
-
-Within a mile of this place are the celebrated waterfalls, called
-
-
-
-RHAIADR Y WENNOL,
-
-
-i.e. the Cataract of the Swallow—a fall of about sixty feet in width.
-The river, at the top of the first fall, flows in an unbroken sheet, but
-soon becomes dispersed in various streams that dash and struggle through
-the impending masses of rock, charming the ear with their complicated
-roar.  At the second fall, it rushes in a collected volume into the
-boiling vortex, from whence, at the third, it is dispersed in spray.  A
-small wicket gate by the road side, leads to a footpath through the
-grounds to the Falls, where the visitor cannot fail to find an adequate
-reward for his digression.  The old oak trees that overhang the ravine
-are beautifully grouped.  On one side, a large rock rises perpendicularly
-nearly 500 feet, and the earth is clothed with velvet moss and decked
-with wild flowers.  Fancy would picture just such a retreat, for a
-wandering sylph! while the rays of light, darting through the greenwoods,
-remind us of the flittings of Sir John Wynne’s ghost, which was said to
-haunt this glen for many years, but is now laid at rest in the depths of
-the Lower Fall.  Journeying onward, I reached the village of
-
-
-
-BETTWS Y COED,
-
-
-which, being translated, is the Station in the Wood; and a most
-delightful station it is.  The Shrewsbury and Holyhead road runs through
-it, and the junction of the Llugwy and the Conwy rivers is at no great
-distance.  The church is a venerable structure, and contains an old
-monument, erected to the memory of Gruffydd, the son of David Gôch, who
-was a natural son of David, the brother of Llewelyn, the last Prince of
-Wales.  He died in the fourteenth century, and a stone statue of him is
-in a recess on the north side of the church, with this inscription: “Hic
-jacet Gruffydd ap Davyd Gôch, agnus Dei miserere mei.”
-
-At about a mile from Bettws is an iron bridge of one arch, which carries
-the Holyhead road over the river Conwy.  Its span is 105 feet, and it is
-called the Waterloo Bridge, from its having been erected in the year that
-tremendous battle was fought.  But the principal object is
-
-
-
-PONT-Y-PAIR,
-
-
-the Bridge of the Caldron.  It has four arches, and the natural rock
-supplies it with piers, that seem to defy the efforts of time or the fury
-of the waters.  Immediately above the bridge is the fall and salmon-leap.
-The river rolls and plunges into a deep reservoir below.  The grandeur of
-the scene during the floods, I was informed, surpasses imagination, and
-unfortunately for me, the heat of the sun had dried them up, when I
-visited this celebrated spot.
-
-For this bridge the inhabitants are indebted to one Howell, a mason, who
-resided at Penllyn in the year 1468; and having occasion to attend the
-assizes at Conway, he was unexpectedly prevented from passing the Lleder
-by the fury of the flood.  That a similar disappointment might not occur
-to others, he erected a wooden bridge across that river, and trusted to
-the generosity of travellers to remunerate him.  The success of this
-attempt encouraged him to erect the bridge at Bettws y Coed, which is now
-called Pont y Pair, but he died before it was completed.
-
-Upon the right of this bridge is Carreg y Gwalch, or the Rock of the
-Falcon, well clothed with trees, through which the bald cliffs peep, like
-a body of sharp shooters from a brush wood anxious to escape detection.
-In this rock is a recess called the Cave of Shenkin, a celebrated outlaw,
-who found shelter here from the unremitting efforts of justice during the
-reign of Edward IV.  It is blocked up by a piece of rock.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER VIII.
-
-
-Gwydir Castle.—Llanrwst Shaking Bridge.—Inn.—Town Hall.—Free
-Schools.—Alms Houses.—Rhaiadr y Parc Mawr.—Llyn
-Geirionydd.—Taliesin.—Trevriw.—Slate Quarries.—Conway.—The Suspension
-Bridge.—The Castle.—Local Customs.—Excursion to the Orme’s Head.
-
-    “On a rock whose haughty brow
-    Frowned o’er old Conway’s foaming flood,
-    Rob’d in a sable garb of woe,
-    With haggard eye, the poet stood.”
-
-                                                                     GRAY.
-
-WITHIN half a mile from the town of Llanrwst is
-
-
-
-GWYDIR CASTLE,
-
-
-the property of Lord Willoughby d’Eresby, a family mansion of no very
-attractive appearance.  It is situated on the right of the road which
-winds between it and a lofty wood-clad precipice, called Carreg y Gwalch,
-or the Rock of the Falcon.  It was built by John Wynne ab Meredydd, in
-1555, and has lately undergone some alteration.  The breakfast parlour
-contains a curious carving of the arms of the Gwydir family, supported by
-Julius Cæsar and Augustus; the former holding his commentaries in one
-hand, and his sword in the other; the latter, his sword only.  The dining
-room has some specimens of carving, that are worthy of observation; but
-throughout the mansion there is very little of what belonged to it
-originally.  The chairs, panelling, and even tables, being coloured for
-the purpose of giving the apartments the appearance of antique splendour,
-which, until lately, they wanted.
-
-The drawing-room is spacious and lofty, and is lighted by a double row of
-windows, which gives it a heavy look: this unusual arrangement was caused
-by the removal of the dormitory, to give height to this room.  Over the
-fire-place is a finely executed carving of Julius Cæsar in oak.  At the
-N.W. end of the room, a piece of tapestry represents a vintage, and at
-the S.E. another specimen of needlework commemorates the landing of
-Charles the Fifth at Grenada.
-
-The coronation chair of George the Second is shewn in this apartment, and
-the footstool used by Queen Caroline on her trial at Westminster Hall.
-There is a centre table, very richly ornamented with carved work; and
-another, which in shape exactly resembles the slab and pedestal of a
-tombstone, so that the visitor naturally enough walks up to it, expecting
-to see the customary “Hic jacet,” &c.
-
-The cradle of Sir Richard Wynne, bearing the date of 1634, completes the
-list of curiosities contained in this room.
-
-The garden, which is extensive, contains some valuable plants and shrubs,
-and the terrace is a pleasant promenade, sloping from which are beds of
-beautiful flowers, of various classes and descriptions.  After satisfying
-the housekeeper with a trifling gratuity, I proceeded to Llanrwst, but
-halted upon the bridge to take a view of the Conwy, (over which beautiful
-river its arches expand) and the town to which it leads.  I was here
-accosted by an old man, who asked me, “if I should like to feel the
-bridge shake?”  As I answered in the affirmative, he desired me to place
-my back against the side over the centre arch, and striking the opposite
-parapet rather heavily with his own, a tremulous motion was distinctly
-felt; on this account it is called the Shaking Bridge.  It was built in
-1636, from a plan of the celebrated Inigo Jones, and cost £1000, which
-was defrayed by the counties of Denbighshire and Carnarvonshire, which it
-unites.
-
-
-
-LLANRWST
-
-
-is built upon the Denbighshire side of the river.  The Three Eagles is
-the most commodious inn in the town; and, being rather fatigued, I threw
-my limbs upon a sofa, and resigned myself to the drowsy god, first taking
-especial care to order a substantial repast to be in readiness for me on
-my return from the land of Nod.  My last waking recollection was the
-words of Mr. Lover’s favourite song,
-
-    “There’s no use at all in my going to bed,
-    For its dhrames and not sleep, that comes into my head.”
-
-Dreams, however, did not picture my slumbers, and I awoke to the
-unrivalled delight of a weary and hungry traveller—an excellent hot
-dinner.
-
-The following morning I employed in paying my respects to the different
-gentlemen to whom I had letters, and in gaining what information I could
-respecting the objects most worthy of notice in the town and surrounding
-neighbourhood.
-
-The church and chapel adjoining were the first subjects to engage my
-attention.  In the former there is nothing interesting, excepting an
-oaken screen, exquisitely carved, which was taken from the Abbey of
-Maenan, the gallery for the singers being above it.  On the opposite side
-is the
-
-
-
-GWYDIR CHAPEL.
-
-
-This beautiful structure was erected in the year 1633, by Sir Richard
-Wynne, of Gwydir, from a design of Inigo Jones, and was for many years
-the burial place of the illustrious family of Gwydir.  At the sides of
-the chapel, fixed in panels of wood, are several engravings on brass,
-illustrative of the personages who are interred below; and in the east
-corner is a tablet of white marble, containing the following remarkable
-pedigree, comprising a period of 500 years.
-
-    “This chapel was erected A.D. 1633, by Sir Richard Wynne, of Gwydir,
-    in the county of Carnarvon, Knight and Baronet; Treasurer to the High
-    and Mighty Princess Henrietta Maria, Queen of England, Daughter of
-    Henry the Fourth, King of France, and wife to our Sovereign Lord King
-    Charles; where lieth buried his father Sir John Wynne, of Gwydir,
-    Knight and Baronet, son and heir to Morris Wynne, son and heir to
-    John Wynne, son and heir to Meredith Wynne, which three lie buried in
-    the church of Dolwyddelen, with tombs over them.  This Meredith was
-    son and heir to Evan, son and heir to Robert, son and heir to
-    Meredith, son and heir to Howell, son and heir to David, son and heir
-    to Griffith, son and heir to Cradock, son and heir to Roderick, Lord
-    of Anglesea, son to Owen Gwynneth, Prince of Wales, and younger
-    brother to David, Prince of Wales who married Emma Plantagenet,
-    sister to King Henry the Second.  There succeeded this David three
-    princes; his nephew Leolinus Magnus, who married Joan, daughter to
-    King John,—David, his son, nephew to King Henry the Third,—and
-    Llewelyn the last Prince of Wales of that house and line, who lived
-    in King Edward the First’s time.  Sir John Wynne married Sydney, who
-    lyeth buried here, daughter of Sir William Gerrard, Knight, Lord
-    Chancellor of Ireland, by whom he had issue, Sir John Wynne, who died
-    at Lucca, in Italy, Sir Richard Wynne, now living, Thomas Wynne, who
-    lyeth here, Owen Wynne, now living, Robert Wynne, who lyeth here,
-    Roger Wynne, who lyeth here, William Wynne, now living, Maurice
-    Wynne, now living, Ellis Wynne, who lyeth buried at Whitford, in the
-    County of Flint, Henry Wynne, now living, Roger Wynne, who lyeth
-    here, and two daughters, Mary, now living, married to Sir Roger
-    Mostyn, in the County of Flint, Knight, and Elizabeth, now living,
-    married to Sir John Bodville, in the County of Carnarvon, Knight.”
-
-Beneath this is a superb engraving of Dame Sarah Wynne, one of the
-daughters of the old Chevalier Sir Thomas Myddelton, of Chirk Castle, and
-wife of the above-mentioned Sir Richard Wynne; she died June 16th, 1671.
-This piece of engraving was executed by one William Vaughan, in a style
-of elegance hardly to be met with, and may be justly reckoned among the
-first productions of the age in which he lived.
-
-On the south side are two stately pyramidal columns of variegated marble,
-decorated with martial insignia; one to the memory of Meredith Wynne, the
-other to Sir John Wynne and Sydney his wife; on their pedestals are Latin
-inscriptions on black marble which have been thus translated:—
-
-    “To the Memory of Meredith Wynne, a descendant of Owen Gwynedd,
-    Prince of Wales, who under happy auspices, founded the House of
-    Gwydir, removed and endowed the Church of Sant Gwyddelen, during the
-    third Tournean expedition, in the fifth year of Henry the Eighth.  He
-    died in the month of March, 1525.”
-
-    “To the Memory of John Wynne of Gwydir, Knight and Baronet, with
-    Sydney the daughter of William Gerrard, Knight, Chancellor of the
-    Kingdom of Ireland, the wife of his youth, to whom she bore eleven
-    sons and two daughters; they lie here waiting the appearance of
-    Christ in Glory.”
-
-Between the above monuments is a small tablet of white marble to the
-memory of John Wynne ab Meredith with a Latin inscription to the
-following effect:—
-
-                           “John Wynne ab Meredith,
-            an inheritor of his Father’s virtues, a just and pious
-                  man, to whom Euna, his wife, brought five
-                       sons and two daughters.  He died
-                           the 9th of July, 1559.”
-
-On the floor is a stone effigy in armour, with the feet resting on a lion
-couchant, of Howel Coetmore ap Gruffydd Vychan ap Dafydd Gam, alias Gôch,
-natural son to David, Prince of Wales, from whose descendants according
-to tradition, Gwydir was purchased by the Wynnes.
-
-Near to the effigy of Howel Coetmore is the under-part of a stone coffin
-in which Llewelyn ab Iorwerth, surnamed the Great, the son-in-law of King
-John, was buried at the Abbey of Conwy; to the coffin is fixed a piece of
-brass with this inscription:—
-
-                “This is the coffin of Leolinus Magnus, Prince
-                   of Wales, who was buried at the Abbey of
-                      Conwy, which upon the dissolution
-                             was removed thence.”
-
-On going from the chapel to the church, you pass over a large square flag
-of free stone, having on its sides a Latin inscription thus translated:—
-
-    “To the Memory of the Sons of John Wynne of Gwydir, Knight and
-    Baronet, who died during their father’s life time; John, Knight, was
-    buried at Lucca, in the free State of Italy, in the year of his age
-    30, of our Lord 1613.  Robert, who had entered into holy orders, in
-    the year of his age 24, of our Lord 1617.  Thomas, Roger, Thomas, in
-    their minority.—Death! a vapour!  Behold! we have existed.”
-
-In the chancel, between the reading desk and the communion table, is a
-flag of free stone on the remains of Margaret Vaughan, heiress of
-Caergai; she was esteemed the Sappho of her age; many of her poetical
-productions are still extant.
-
-The gallery over the reading desk is said to have been removed here from
-the Abbey of Aberllechog, or Maenan Abbey, upon the dissolution of that
-religious house.
-
-                 [Picture: The Coffin of Leolinus Magnus]
-
-Under the reading desk in the Church, in a pew belonging to Kyffdy, is a
-Latin epitaph to the memory of Griffith Lloyd, of Bruniog, Rector of this
-parish; this is said to have been written by himself, and has been much
-admired for its singularity: it runs thus:—
-
-          “Once the undeserving School-master,
-          Then the more undeserving Lecturer,
-    And last of all, the most undeserving Rector of this Parish.
-    Do not think, speak, or write any thing evil of the dead.”
-
-There is a Market Hall, Town Hall, Free Schools, and Alms Houses.  The
-latter were erected by Sir John Wynne, in 1610, and received the name of
-Jesus Hospital.  He endowed them for the reception of twelve poor men, by
-ceding the rectorial tithes of Eglwys Vâch, which are valued at £200 per
-annum.  Within a mile of Llanrwst there is a spring, which is much
-esteemed for its healthful qualities.  The water is soft, and a drop of
-sal-volatile mixed with a cup of it turns it white as milk, while oil of
-tartar causes it to assume a pearl colour.  If during the tourist’s visit
-to Llanrwst there should chance to fall much rain, I would advise him by
-all means to view the cataract called
-
-
-
-RHAIADR Y PARC MAWR,
-
-
-in the valley of Nant Bwlch yr Haiarn, near Gwydir, but otherwise the
-minuteness of the stream occasions no extraordinary effect from this
-fall, which is about one hundred feet in height.  The chief object of
-interest, however, in this vicinity, is the celebrated lake, called
-
-
-
-LLYN GEIRIONYDD,
-
-
-upon the borders of which once lived the chief of the Welsh bards,
-Taliesin.  At the eastern side of the lake is a mound, upon the summit of
-which there is a kind of hollow, and in it are the remains of an ancient
-edifice, which was probably the residence of Taliesin, in the reign of
-Maelgwn Gwynedd, King of Britain.  Taliesin when an infant was found by
-Prince Elphin by the side of a wear belonging to his father, Gwyddno
-Garanhir, Lord of Cantrev Gwaelod.  The Prince fostered the infant, and
-had it liberally educated; and, at a proper age, introduced him to the
-court of his father, Gwyddno.  Upon this occasion, Taliesin presented the
-king with a poem, the subject of which was his own history, and another
-to the prince, which he called Dyhuddiant Elphin, or the consolation of
-Elphin, a translation of which is in Evan’s Specimens of Welsh Poetry.
-Taliesin had an opportunity of being serviceable to his benefactor; for
-once, when the Prince was imprisoned by his uncle, Maelgwn, in the castle
-of Dyganwy, the magic of his muse effected his release.  This celebrated
-bard was the preceptor of Merddin ab Morvryn, and to him the lovers of
-poetry are indebted for five new metres, while the historian and
-antiquary are equally benefited by his accurate description of the
-manners and customs of the Ancient Britons.
-
-I quitted Llanrwst on the following morning, and took the road to Conwy;
-two miles and a half brought me to the pretty village of
-
-
-
-TREVRIW,
-
-
-which presents an animated scene.  It is situated upon the banks of the
-beautiful river Conwy, which is navigable up to this point for vessels of
-fifty tons burthen, that supply the town and neighbourhood with coals,
-lime, groceries, &c., &c., and return laden with slate, supplied from the
-adjacent mines and quarries.  A number of small boats, called coracles,
-used by the fishermen, are seen studding the delightful stream, while the
-larger vessels, towed against the wind or sailing before it, present a
-pleasing picture.  From this place to Conwy there is nothing particularly
-to attract attention, until you arrive within a mile of that celebrated
-town, when, from the brow of a hill, is obtained a view of the venerable
-fortress erected by the first Edward, and the strongly fortified walls,
-completely encompassing the town, and strengthened by massive towers.
-They are coeval with the castle, and are built in the form of a Welsh
-harp, like those of Carnarvon; but here there are no environs, and the
-town presents the same appearance as when the chivalric monarch first
-fortified it.
-
-
-
-CONWY.
-
-
-The town derives its name from Cyn (chief) and Wy river.
-
-The principal inn is the Castle, which affords every accommodation the
-traveller can desire.  The Wynnes are celebrated here, as in all parts of
-North Wales.  In the interior of the town stands Plâs Mawr, which was
-erected in 1585, and is still a remarkable structure; its founder was
-Robert Wynne, of Gwydir, the uncle of Sir John Wynne, the historian.
-Over the grand entrance is inscribed, in Greek characters “_bear and
-forbear_,” over which in Roman characters, “J. H. S. X. P. S.” (Jesus
-Hominum Salvator et Populi Salus.)  The Old College is in Castle Street,
-and the Church is built from the remains of the ancient Cistercian Abbey,
-which was founded here by Llewelyn ab Iorwerth, 1185.  It contains a rich
-baptismal font of gothic structure, with a tablet to the memory of
-Nicholas Hookes, of the town of Conwy, who was the forty-first child of
-William and Alice Hookes, and who was himself the father of twenty-seven
-children.
-
-During my short stay in Conwy, I endeavoured to discover the best view of
-the town, which, I think, is from the eastern side of the river, about
-midway between the chain bridge and the mansion of Dyganwy.  Nothing can
-be more interesting.  The variety of small craft, sailing and anchored,
-before its warlike screen; the castle, with its towers and turrets,
-rising in hostile grandeur upon its rocky base; the bridges, and lovely
-scenery beyond of purple hills and thriving villages; and the bright
-waters sporting with the luxuriant foliage of its woody margin, create a
-sensation of delight in the pursuer of picturesque scenery which he has
-probably seldom before experienced.
-
-                         [Picture: Conwy Castle]
-
-Another delightful view may be obtained by ascending the rock which
-overhangs the lodge of the suspension bridge upon its eastern side.  This
-very beautiful specimen of art has however lost a great portion of its
-attraction since the completion of the more wonderful structure of the
-Tubular Bridge, which, like a mighty conqueror, looks proudly conscious
-of its own importance, and compels the former to take a secondary
-position in the estimation of the visitor.  It consists of only one span
-of 400 feet, and two abutments of masonry, which are in perfect harmony
-with the venerable appearance of the Castle.  But the chief object of
-interest is the Castle, which surpasses in picturesque grandeur any
-building of the kind I ever beheld.  I thought Carnarvon Castle the most
-beautiful of ruins, but it is not, in my opinion, to be compared with
-Conwy.  The solidity of its structure, and its expansive site, resembling
-the fortresses of Syria and the Holy Land, give to its exterior all that
-the most romantic imagination could desire.  Its foundation is a rock of
-slate, and its works are impregnable.  Nothing but famine could, at the
-time it was erected, have had power to subdue it.  Its walls are from ten
-to twelve feet in thickness, and it had formerly a deep and broad moat,
-on the west and north-west sides; which, with the sea washing its base on
-the east and south, formed insurmountable barriers to the assailants.
-
-It was evening when I first entered this noble ruin.  The porteress very
-ungraciously left me to my meditations after admitting me, locking the
-gate after her, and leaving me like a state prisoner in the royal
-fortress.  I confess I was little pleased with the manners of my
-conductress, and the solitary situation in which I was placed, and
-sensations arose within me like those which a school boy feels when
-passing a churchyard at midnight.  The sun had set, and the deep shadows
-of eve were darkening into night, as I stood alone in the court yard, and
-flitting visions arose before me of those who had crossed its space in
-distant by-gone ages—“the plumed troops,” and courtly dames, and all the
-glitter of the olden times.  As I thus stood amongst the ruins, a deep
-drawn sigh, close by my ear, made my heart leap into my throat, as I
-turned to discover from whence it proceeded.  But all was solitude
-around.  The huge festoons of ivy, unruffled by a breath of air hung in
-funereal grandeur on the walls.  As I passed into what had been the
-banqueting hall, the darkness increased.  It was a noble apartment, and
-measured 130 feet in length, and thirty in breadth, in height twenty.
-Nine windows looked southward, up the river, and two into the courtyard.
-In the recesses were stone seats, capable of accommodating twelve
-persons; and, as I seated myself in one of these, my delusion of other
-days came over me.  Here sat the first Edward, the hero of Palestine;
-here was the monarch besieged, and almost reduced by famine; here Hotspur
-and King Richard held a conference; and the latter, putting himself into
-the power of Northumberland, was betrayed by him, and sent a prisoner to
-the usurper, Bolingbroke.
-
-    “Life’s but a walking shadow—a poor player,
-    That struts and frets his hour upon the stage,
-    And then is heard no more!”
-
-As I made this apt quotation, another deep and heavy sigh, and a rustling
-in the ivy, startled me, and the bird of solitude, the lonely owl,
-flapped his heavy wings, and flew past me to a remoter corner of the
-ruined hall.  I arose, and walked to a small chamber, where there was an
-open ornamented casement, and which, as I was afterwards informed, bears
-the name of the Queen’s Oriel; from which there is a pleasant prospect of
-part of the ruin and scenery beyond.
-
-I then proceeded to the terrace, at the south-western extremity, which is
-on the surface of the rock, and the prospect from this spot, interesting
-at all times, is doubly so by moonlight.  The suspension and tubular
-bridges beneath, the ocean on the left, and this fertile valley on the
-right, with the sparkling Conwy meandering through it, compose a scene of
-unexampled beauty.
-
-In the year 1290, when Edward was engaged in a dispute with the King of
-France, and was determined to revenge himself upon that potentate, in
-order to obtain supplies, he made the experiment of taxing his
-newly-acquired Welsh subjects; which they resented by hanging Roger de
-Pulesdon, who had been appointed to collect the tax; and by defeating the
-English forces, who attempted to enforce them.  Alarmed at a revolt,
-which was now rising into importance, and which threatened to wrest from
-him his new dominions, Edward entered North Wales, to conduct the war in
-person.  Having proceeded in his march to Conwy, he crossed that arm of
-the sea with a part of his forces, and retiring into the castle with
-them, awaited the arrival of the remainder.  In his passage he lost many
-waggons, and other carriages loaded with provisions, which were
-intercepted by the Welsh, who came down in multitudes from the mountains,
-and invested the castle upon the land side, while a sudden rise in the
-Conwy, which prevented his troops from crossing the river and rendering
-him assistance, made his situation extremely alarming.  He was surrounded
-by water and the enemy, cut off from his army, and threatened with
-famine.  The good fortune of Edward, however, returned to him in the hour
-of need.  The river subsided, and his forces being able to cross to his
-relief, the Welsh again retired to the mountains, and the English monarch
-passed his Christmas holidays without interruption at the castle.
-
-In 1665, the Earl of Conwy, under pretence of its being for his majesty’s
-service, stripped the castle of all its furniture, iron, and lead, and
-shipped them off to Ireland, otherwise it might have remained as firm and
-entire at the present day, as when it was first erected.  If these Goths
-were aware of the ignominy they attached to their shields by acts so
-disgraceful, they might perhaps have permitted beauty and grandeur to
-remain undefiled by their sacrilegious touch.
-
-The young men still keep up many of the ancient local customs; amongst
-which, on Nos Calanmai, or, the eve of the first of May, they hang on the
-houses of their sweethearts bunches of rosemary and ribbons.
-
-At the door of a prude they tie a penglog, or part of a horse’s skeleton.
-There is likewise a custom preserved called Stocsio.  Upon Easter Sunday,
-a great number of boys and men assemble on Pentwthil, with wands of
-gorse, to proclaim the laws and regulations which are to be observed upon
-the following morning.  The last married person is sought to perform this
-office, who, mounted on a heap of stones, issues his mandate, while the
-rest listen with silent attention.  He decrees that all men under sixty
-years of age are to appear in the street before six o’clock on the
-following morning; and all under forty, before four; and all under twenty
-are commanded not to go to bed at all, under penalty of being put into
-the stocks.  The orator then descends, amidst loud cheering, and the
-assembled parties separate; the younger branches to form plans of
-amusement, and the graver to secure their carts, waggons, and
-wheelbarrows, with chains and locks, to prevent their being seized upon
-the following day; a very necessary precaution, as every vehicle,
-unchained, or otherwise unsecured, is sure of being pressed before dawn
-of day into the service of the light-hearted youths, who are not over
-careful of their neighbours’ property during the uproarious period of
-their festivity.  Early in the morning, the stocks are placed at one end
-of the street, and a party, marching to the inspiring music of a drum and
-fife, parade the town, in order to convey to the place of punishment all
-seceders from this ancient law of custom.  When they arrive at a house
-where a rebel resides, the storming party endeavour, by all practicable
-means, to gain admittance; such as climbing in at the windows, forcing
-open the back door, &c., and they generally secure the culprit; who, if
-he be caught in bed, is allowed sufficient time to dress himself, and
-then hurried away to the stocks, amid the exulting shouts of the
-assembled multitude.  His feet being secured, one of the party gives him
-a severe lecture upon the sin of idleness, and of breaking old
-established customs.  Then taking his right hand, he puts questions to
-him; such as, whether he would rather kiss the mistress or the
-maid?—whether he prefers buttermilk or strong ale?—and the more
-satisfactory his answers are to the party, the more thickly his hand is
-plastered with mud, until at length he is released, and with loud
-cheering, permitted to join the forces, as they march off in search of
-another rebel.
-
-There is a pearl fishery at Conwy, and many poor families are supported
-by gathering the muscles which contain these gems.  The fish is called by
-Linnæus _mya margaritifera_.  The produce is transmitted to London in the
-pure natural state, and easily finds a market amongst the jewellers, who
-purchase them by weight, but in the neighbourhood of Conwy the purposes
-they are appropriated to are unknown.  It was my good fortune to meet
-with a brother tourist at the Castle Inn; who after acquainting me with
-the above facts, offered to conduct me in the morning to Llandudno, which
-offer I thankfully accepted; and, before the sun had finished his draught
-of mountain dew, we had crossed the bridge, and were pursuing our course
-to the appointed spot.  The tide was at low ebb, and a pleasant walk of
-three-quarters of a mile upon the hard sand brought us to
-
-
-
-DINAS GONWY,
-
-
-“The fort of the Conwy.”  By the English, it is called the Gannoc, and by
-the common people in the neighbourhood “Y Vaer dre.”
-
-The ruins of an ancient castle are to be seen at a short distance,
-situated upon two hillocks, near the shore.  From thence we crossed by
-Eglwys Rhôs, where Maelgwn Gwynedd is said to have taken refuge to avoid
-the yellow fever, which was committing great havoc in all parts of
-Europe.  Gloddaeth, the residence of the Hon. Lloyd Mostyn, is sweetly
-situated near this place.  It was built by his ancestors in the reign of
-Elizabeth, and is celebrated for the Welsh manuscripts contained in the
-library, now removed to Mostyn.  The grounds are most tastefully laid
-out, and the tourist will find himself amply rewarded for his pains while
-viewing the extreme beauty of the scenes around.
-
-
-
-LLANDUDNO
-
-
-Is built at the foot of a huge mass of rock which projects into the sea,
-called the Great Orme’s Head.  The old church is dedicated to St. Tudno,
-who lived in the beginning of the sixth century.  There is a curious old
-screen in the church of great antiquity: it is made of wood, and supposed
-to have been brought from the chapel at Gogarth.
-
-On an eminence above the village is Dinas, which, as its name implies,
-was a fortified post of the Ancient Britons.  A wall of great thickness
-encircles the summit of the hill, and within the area are great numbers
-of hollow circles, edged with stones about twelve feet in diameter.  This
-fortification is exactly similar to that on Conwy town mountain, on
-Penmaen Mawr, and in many other places; and it answered the same purpose:
-not for a constant residence, but only as a place of refuge on the
-approach of an enemy.
-
-Near this place is a _maen sigl_, or rocking stone, called _Cryd Tudno_,
-or St. Tudno’s Cradle.  It is an immense stone, which is so equally
-poised that a very slight degree of pressure will enable a person to put
-it in motion.
-
-The greater part of the inhabitants of Llandudno derive their livelihood
-from the copper mines, which have been carried on in every direction.
-The discovery of rude implements in old closed up shafts, such as hammers
-of stone, and chisels of bones thoroughly impregnated with copper, is an
-evidence of their having been worked at a very remote period.
-
-This village has become, within the last few years, a favourite resort
-for sea-bathing, and is rapidly increasing in population and importance.
-
-We arrived at the Castle, in Conwy, greatly fatigued, and equally
-delighted with our day’s journey.  The following morning we proceeded by
-railway to Bangor.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER IX.
-
-
-Bangor.—Inns.—The Cathedral.—Penrhyn Castle.—The Britannia and Menai
-Bridges.—Carnarvon.—The Castle.—Rhyl.—Holywell.—St. Winefred’s
-Well.—Basingwerk.—Flint.—Chester.—Conclusion.
-
-    “When the heathen trumpet’s clang
-    Round beleaguer’d Chester rang,
-    Veiled nun and friar grey
-    March’d from Bangor’s fair Abbaye;
-    High their holy Anthem sounds,
-    Cestria’s vale the hymn rebounds,
-    Floating down the silver Dee,
-                   O Miserere Domine!”
-
-                                                         SIR WALTER SCOTT.
-
-
-
-BANGOR.
-
-
-This town derives its name from Ban Cor, which means the high choir.
-
-We stopped at the Penrhyn Arms, a most commodious inn, which is capable,
-it is said, of making up one hundred beds nightly.  It occupies a
-commanding situation, and from the back premises embraces a noble
-prospect;—the Straits, the Shore of Anglesey, the Bay of Beaumaris,
-Penrhyn Castle, Puffin Island, Penmaen Mawr, and the Great Orme’s Head,
-with the ocean in the distance.
-
-There are other excellent inns in the town, namely the Castle, the
-Liverpool Arms, and the Albion; the latter is extremely comfortable, and
-the landlord civil and obliging, as I most willingly testify from
-experience.  There is no place in Wales so well calculated for a tourist
-to make his head quarters as Bangor.  The various spots he may visit by
-appropriating a day to each, would supply him with gratification for a
-month at least.
-
-Near the spot where the London road branches off from the Chester, is the
-grand entrance to Penrhyn Castle, the property of Col. the Hon. D.
-Pennant, M.P.  The lodge is a beautiful specimen of substantial
-architecture; it is protected by a corresponding gateway, massive and
-imposing.  The park wall extends circularly seven miles, and is thirteen
-feet high.  To describe the magnificence of the interior of the castle I
-feel would prove a vain effort, and I earnestly recommend all tourists
-who take this route not to quit the neighbourhood without seeing it, or
-they will be reproached for slighting one of the grandest treats old
-Cambria can afford them.
-
-
-
-THE CATHEDRAL
-
-
-Was founded by Maelgwn Gwynedd, King of Wales, of whom I have had
-occasion to speak before, as the patron of Taliesin, the celebrated Welsh
-bard.
-
-The original edifice, which was erected in 525, was destroyed in 1071,
-and rebuilt shortly after, but was again reduced to ruins by Owen
-Glyndwr, and for ninety years was neglected, until Bishop Dean restored
-the choir, and the body of the tower was rebuilt by Bishop Skeffington,
-in 1532, which still remains in a perfect state of preservation.  The
-free school was founded in 1557, by Dr. Jeffrey Glynn, upon the site of
-an ancient parish church, built by King Edgar, within about 400 yards of
-the present cathedral, and is considered an excellent preparatory
-seminary for Oxford and Cambridge.
-
-The remains of an ancient castle, built by Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester,
-in the reign of Henry the Second, are still visible upon a rock opposite
-to the free school, and some pieces of scoria, found on the spot, lead us
-to suppose arrows were manufactured there.  At the back of the Friar’s
-School is another hill, and on the top of it are the remains of a British
-encampment.
-
-The town, within the last twenty years, has been extended to nearly four
-times its original magnitude, and possesses an appearance of cleanliness
-particularly gratifying.
-
-The great lions of Bangor are the Menai and Britannia Tubular Bridges.
-
-
-
-THE MENAI BRIDGE.
-
-
-The principal opening between the supporting pillars is 560 feet in
-breadth, through which the vessels pass with all their canvas set,
-without the least danger of their masts touching the overhanging bridge.
-There are four stone arches upon the Anglesey side, and three upon the
-Carnarvon, which complete the roadway, and have each a span of fifty
-feet.  The length of the bridge is 800 feet, and its height is 100 feet
-above the surface of the Menai at high water.  The weight of the bridge
-and its suspending chains, between the pyramids is six hundred and
-thirty-nine tons, nineteen hundred and nine pounds; and that of the iron
-work from one extremity of the chains to the other is estimated at 2130
-tons, 1800 consisting of wrought, and three hundred and thirty of cast
-iron.
-
-The first stone of this astonishing work was laid by W. A. Provis, Esq.,
-on the 10th August, 1820; and on the 20th April, 1825, the first main
-chain was thrown across the strait.  This important step being completed,
-three of the workmen, in the height of their enthusiasm, ventured to walk
-along the chain from pier to pier; and a cobbler no less daring and
-enthusiastic, seated himself in the centre of the curve, and, while
-suspended at the fearful height, with sky above and the deep water of the
-strait gliding beneath him, drove the last sparable into one of those
-convenient comforts called clogs.
-
-The view from the centre of the bridge beggars description.  Waving
-woods, barren precipices, distant mountains, Bangor, and Beaumaris,
-Penrhyn Castle, Penmaen Mawr, the Great Orme’s Head, the ocean, and the
-strait, are objects that dazzle and astonish from the exquisite beauty of
-their natural arrangement.
-
-But even this, the noblest specimen of hanging bridges in the world, is
-eclipsed by the monster
-
-
-
-BRITANNIA TUBULAR BRIDGE,
-
-
-which crosses the Straits about a mile above it on the Carnarvonshire
-side.  Fully to appreciate this monster work of human ingenuity, the
-traveller should ascend the Britannia Tower, which rises from a rock in
-the centre of the Straits, and gaze upon the glorious panorama which
-surrounds him.  Upon the Carnarvonshire side he will behold the mountains
-of Snowdonia veiling their lofty summits in the clouds.  Along their
-sides, and through their mighty bulks, the railroad train now rolls its
-dragon form, shaking their rocky ribs, and awakening their echoes in its
-swift and thundering course; beneath him are the Menai Straits, through
-which the imprisoned waters of the Irish Sea and St. George’s Channel
-vibrate everlastingly backwards and forwards, at the same time
-successively rise and fall, occasioning an endless succession of aqueous
-changes.  Upon the shores of Anglesey a rich and fertile country studded
-with villas, surrounded by luxuriant woods, and waving corn, presents
-itself, forming a pleasing contrast to the wild grandeur of the Snowdon
-Hills, and exhibiting an example of the perfection of cultivation,
-cheerful labour, and undisturbed tranquillity.
-
-It was originally intended to carry the Chester and Holyhead line across
-the Suspension Bridge, and to detach the trains at each end of the
-bridge, leaving the carriages to be drawn over by horses, but the
-government objected to this arrangement, considering that it would be
-proved to be a public inconvenience.  A bridge of two cast iron arches,
-to be supported on piers of masonry, was next proposed: this second
-project was objected to by the masters of the Carnarvon harbour, upon the
-plea that it would seriously interfere with the navigation of the
-Straits.  At length Mr. Robert Stephenson offered to construct a mode of
-transit which should entirely do away with all objections.  He had come
-to the conclusion that a tube, or tunnel of wrought iron, sufficiently
-large for the passage of trains, would be the most plausible plan, as it
-would neither endanger the navigation nor cause any delay to the railway
-carriages in crossing over the Straits.  His plan was adopted, and the
-stupendous work of art which now awakens the astonishment of the
-beholder, will bear the name of Stephenson down to remote posterity,
-attached as it is to one of the brightest ornaments of the nineteenth
-century.
-
-From Bangor the traveller can proceed by rail to
-
-
-
-CARNARVON,
-
-
-which is one of the best towns in North Wales, the transit is performed
-in less than half an hour, and he will reap unqualified pleasure by
-examining the numerous interesting objects which render that celebrated
-place so remarkable.
-
-The present town of Carnarvon is sprung from the ruins of the ancient
-Roman city of Segontium, which name the Welsh had changed into the apt
-one of Caer yn Arvon, or the Fortress in Arvon, the district bordering on
-Môn, the Welsh name for Anglesey.  The site, which for the natural
-strength of its position, was admirably chosen by our first Edward, is
-bounded on the one side by the Menai, and by the estuary of the Seiont on
-the other, and on the third and part of the fourth by the creek of the
-Menai.
-
-The castle is the chief object of attraction, and excites the admiration
-of all who gaze upon its time-worn but majestic walls.  The entrance to
-it is beneath a huge tower, upon the front of which is carved the statue
-of Edward, the founder, who grasps his dagger as if menacing his newly
-acquired and most unwilling subjects.  Unlike the towers of Conwy Castle,
-which are round, those of Carnavon are polygonal, hexagonal, and
-octagonal, and the tourist should notice especially the Eagle Tower,
-which is the loftiest of them all, and which at one time possessed a
-double interest, created by the popular belief that Edward the Second was
-born within its walls; unfortunately, however, there are records in the
-national archives which prove that the Eagle Tower was not finished until
-that unhappy monarch was thirty years of age.
-
-The castle covers about two and a half acres of ground, and forms an
-oblong irregular square.  The walls, which are at present exactly in the
-same state as they were in the time of Edward, are defended by thirteen
-great towers, the masonry of which is about seven feet nine inches in
-thickness, and have within them a series of galleries with narrow œillets
-or slips for the discharge of arrows.  The walls of the Eagle Tower are
-about nine feet six inches in thickness, and the view from its summit, of
-the Menai and Anglesey on the one side, and Snowdonia on the other, is
-extremely fine.  The mutilated eagle upon the tower is supposed to be
-Roman, and that Edward found it at Old Segontium.
-
-Near the steep bank of the Seiont, at a short distance from the castle
-are rather extensive remains of an ancient Roman fort, which, it would
-seem, was intended to secure a landing place in the event of an attack.
-A little above this, and about a quarter of a mile from the Menai, is the
-site of the ancient Roman station Segontium, of which some fragments of a
-wall are the only visible remains, but underground the relics are more
-numerous; at the depth of a few feet occur foundations of buildings,
-broken pottery, ashes, and so forth—while numerous coins (some of them
-gold) and other Roman remains have, at various times, been exhumed.
-According to Mathew of Westminster, Constantius, the father of
-Constantine the Great, was interred here, and the same historian further
-asserts that Edward found the body and caused it to be honourably buried
-in the Church (it is supposed) of St. Publicius, or Llanbeblig.
-
-Having gratified his curiosity, the traveller may once more take the
-rails for Bangor, and, accompanied by pleasing visions of past greatness,
-return to his inn well satisfied with his day’s excursion.
-
-After remaining three days in this interesting neighbourhood, I took my
-departure from Bangor towards Chester.  The tourist who may be inclined
-to follow my track, and has sufficient time to spare, should leave the
-train at
-
-
-
-RHYL,
-
-
-A pretty watering place at the termination of the beautiful Vale of
-Clwyd, and near the mouth of the river from which it derives its name.
-The town is neat, and is yearly increasing in importance.  From hence the
-visitor will obtain a view of the Great Orme’s Head, the Puffin Island,
-and the wide expanse of the Irish Sea.  The sands are extensive, and
-admirably adapted for sea bathing; the hotels are both commodious and
-excellent.
-
-I may mention that Rhuddlan, St. Asaph, and Denbigh, are within easy
-distance from Rhyl, and will afford a pleasant day’s excursion.  Quitting
-Rhyl, a short ride conveys the traveller to
-
-
-
-HOLYWELL,
-
-
-So celebrated for its miraculous spring.  The church of this place is
-dedicated to Saint Winefred, and stands at the foot of a steep hill, but
-it is so far removed from the upper town that the bells cannot be heard
-by the people above, for which reason a very ancient custom is continued,
-namely, a ringer is employed to go about the town with a large bell slung
-around his shoulder, and a cushion fastened to his knees, against which
-the bell beats as he walks, to summon the inhabitants to the house of
-prayer; but the chief object of interest to visitors in this town is St.
-Winefred’s Well, from which it takes its name of Holywell.  The Roman
-Catholic clergymen of ancient days, knew well how to impose on the
-credulity of the ignorant laymen, when they were desirous of enriching
-their establishments, as well perhaps as they do at the present period,
-and for this purpose they invented amongst other absurd fallacies the
-ridiculous fable of St. Winefred, which is carved upon a pendant
-projection over the fountain, with the arms of England at the bottom.
-
-
-
-ST. WINEFRED.
-
-
-The legend is told thus:—Winefred was a beautiful and devout virgin, of
-noble birth, and it is supposed lived in the early part of the seventh
-century, under the guardianship of her uncle, the good Bueno, who had
-founded a church here, and was conspicuous for his great piety.  A young
-prince of the country, of the name of Caradoc, saw the damsel, and was
-enamoured with the beauty of her person, and resolved to attempt her
-virtue; seizing an opportunity, when all but the fair Winefred were at
-prayers, he declared to her his passion.  She fled from his presence, but
-before she could reach the sacred edifice, which stood at the foot of the
-hill, even, as at the present day, the prince overtook her, and in a
-paroxysm of rage and disappointment, he struck off her head, which
-bounded down the hill, through the door of the church, to the foot of the
-altar.  Bueno raised up the head, and instead of a pool of blood, which
-appeared for a moment, a fountain of clear water gushed forth.  His
-horror was great, when he found that the beautiful features, and golden
-hair of the head he gazed upon, were those of his beloved niece.  The
-saint, for such Bueno afterwards became, took up the head, and with
-devout prayers, joined it to the body, and to the wonder of all present
-it immediately re-united, the place of separation being marked only by a
-white line encircling the neck.  The cruel Prince Caradoc fell dead on
-the spot where he had committed the atrocious act.  Winefred lived
-fifteen years after this event, and founded a nunnery at Gwytherin,
-Denbighshire, of which she became abbess, and died there.
-
-The well is an oblong square, about twelve feet by seven, and the water
-passes into a small square court, through an arch under which, it is
-said, the Roman Catholics used to swim as an act of penance.  Innumerable
-are the miracles said to have been performed through the intervention of
-the saint, and as countless is the list of devotees who have paid their
-homage at her holy shrine, standing up to their chins in the water, and
-pouring forth their prayers for hours together.
-
-Putting aside all superstitious notions, the waters of the well possess
-many sanative properties.  Katherine of Arragon, the wife of Henry the
-Eighth, was a benefactress to this building, and here her arms appear,
-viz.: three pomegranates in a shield surmounted by a crown, the badge of
-the House of Grenada.  Isabel, Countess of Warwick, left to St. Winefred,
-in 1439, her gown of russet velvet.  In the church there is a bell which
-was christened in honour of the saint, and at the ceremony a string of
-virgins took hold of the rope, bestowed a name upon the bell, whilst the
-priest sprinkling holy water baptised it, and put it into petticoats;
-after which the ladies gave a grand feast, and made great presents, which
-the priests received on behalf of the bell.
-
-There are several good inns in the town, the principal ones are the White
-Horse, the King’s Arms, the King’s Head, and the Red Lion.  About a mile
-eastward of Holywell, situated in a beautiful meadow, are the ruins of
-Basingwerk Abbey, formerly a building of considerable importance.  It is
-surrounded by groves of tall trees, and commands a fine view of the
-Cheshire shore.  The next place on the Chester line of railway, to which
-the traveller should direct his attention, is
-
-
-
-FLINT,
-
-
-At which place his historical recollections will be awakened by the
-ancient castle, which is situated upon a rock in the marsh at the bottom
-of the town.
-
-The castle is a square building, with a large round tower at three of the
-corners, and a fourth a little disjoined from the others, and much larger
-than the rest.  This is called the double tower.  It was formerly joined
-to the castle by a drawbridge, and is of great thickness.  Here the
-unfortunate Edward the Second received from exile his imperious favourite
-Piers Gaveston, and here it was that the equally unfortunate Richard the
-Second was betrayed by the Earl of Northumberland into the power of
-Bolingbroke.  Northumberland had met Richard at Conwy, to which place he
-had retired after his return from Ireland, and they were journeying
-together when, amid the recesses of the mountains, near Penmaen Rhôs, the
-king descried a large body of soldiers with the Percy banners.  The
-unhappy monarch attempted to escape, but Northumberland seizing the
-bridle of his horse, compelled him to proceed towards Rhuddlan Castle,
-where they dined, and in the evening conducted him to Flint.  Upon the
-following morning Richard was astonished by the appearance of a numerous
-army, commanded by Bolingbroke, in full march along the sands, which
-speedily surrounded the castle.  Richard descended from the keep to meet
-his rival, who fell upon his knees, and for a short time assumed a
-respectful appearance, but he soon discarded the mask, and “with a high
-sharp voice,” says Stowe, “badde bring forth the king’s horses; and then
-two little naggs, not worth fortie franks, were brought forthe.  The king
-was set on the one, and the Earl of Salisbury on the other, and thus the
-duke brought them from Flint to Chester.”
-
-
-
-HAWARDEN
-
-
-Is six miles from Flint, and lying two miles on the right of the Queen’s
-Ferry Station; it is a neat and comfortable town, consisting of one
-street of about half a mile in length, and wears a cheerful aspect.  The
-Glynne Arms will receive the visitor, and afford him every attention and
-comfort he can possibly desire.  Hawarden Park is one of the most
-picturesque and beautiful domains in the principality.  Its lofty trees
-and velvet grass, its swelling knolls and solitary glens, cannot fail to
-awaken the most pleasing emotions in the breast of the tourist, while the
-ivy-clad ruins of the ancient castle give a solemnity and grandeur to the
-scene indescribably interesting.  In the year 1280 a general insurrection
-took place among the Welsh, under their prince, Llewelyn, and his brother
-David, for the recovery of their liberties and ancient form of
-government.  It was commenced by David, on the 22nd of March, Palm
-Sunday, in a stormy night, which favoured his design so well, that he
-surprised this castle, put the garrison to the sword, and took Roger De
-Clifford, the Justiciary of Chester, prisoner.  After the death of
-Llewelyn, and the subjugation of Wales, he suffered for this in a most
-exemplary manner, being condemned to four species of punishment, viz., to
-be drawn by a horse to the place of execution as a traitor to the king
-who had made him a knight; to be hanged for murdering Fulk Trigald, and
-other knights, in this fortress; for his sacrilege in committing those
-murders on Palm Sunday, his bowels were to be burnt, and finally his body
-was to be quartered and hung in different parts of the kingdom, because
-he had in different parts conspired the death of the king.  In 1495 this
-castle belonged to Margaret, Countess of Richmond, the mother of Henry
-the Seventh, and that monarch honoured it with his presence for some
-time, in order that he might here enjoy the pleasures of the chase.
-During the civil wars it suffered the usual vicissitudes of fortune.  It
-was besieged in 1643 by the King’s troops, when it was garrisoned by one
-hundred and twenty men of Sir Thomas Myddelton’s regiment.
-
-The remains of the castle consist of a fine circular tower, or keep,
-situated upon the summit of a mount, a few walls, and the foundations of
-some rooms.  On all sides it was surrounded by deep chasms and fosses,
-and from its extensive plan and broad foundations it has the appearance
-of having been erected at different periods.  The modern mansion of
-Hawarden Park belongs to Sir S. R. Glynne, Baronet, a member of
-parliament, and lord-lieutenant of Flintshire.  It is a stately
-structure, with antique-looking windows and turrets, and commands a view
-of the city of Chester and the entire course of the silvery Dee from that
-station to the Irish Channel.  Leaving this most interesting and lovely
-place, and casting many a lingering look behind, I once more reached the
-railway station, and after a short ride of seven miles, arrived at the
-far-famed city of
-
-
-
-CHESTER.
-
-
-This city still bears marks of its Roman origin.  The laying out of the
-streets is Roman; the two principal thoroughfares crossing at right
-angles in the centre of the city.  Its fortifications are reasonably
-supposed to be on a Roman basis.  Remains of Roman masonry have been
-discovered, and the usual vestiges of the Romans have, at different
-times, been turned up—such as coins, fibulæ, inscribed tiles, stones, and
-altars.  In 1653 a votive altar to Jupiter was dug up, which had been
-raised by an officer of the twentieth legion, called the Victorious.  In
-fact, the city was named in honour of this legion, Legecestria; and after
-the Romans ceased to occupy it, the Britons called it Caer Lleon vawr ar
-Ddyvrdwy: or, “the camp of the great Legion on the Dee.”  In the time of
-the Romans Chester was the termination of the celebrated Watling Street,
-the great military road which extended from Dover across the island.
-
-It was in this city that the Welsh, in the year 1300, acknowledged the
-sovereignty of the English, the homage of the freeholders being received
-by the infant Prince of Wales, afterwards Edward the Second.  In the year
-1506, Chester was afflicted with that remarkable disease the sweating
-sickness, which carried off ninety-one householders in three days; and a
-few years afterwards made such ravages that the streets of the city were
-overgrown with grass.
-
-In 1558, a circumstance occurred in Chester which was of the greatest
-importance to the Protestants of those days.  Dr. Henry Cole, Dean of St.
-Paul’s, is said to have been entrusted with the commission issued by Mary
-to empower the Lord Deputy of Ireland to prosecute those who refused to
-observe the ceremonies of the Roman Catholic religion.  The Doctor, on
-his way to Ireland, stopped at Chester, and having put up at the Blue
-Posts Inn, in Bridge Street, was visited by the Mayor, to whom he
-communicated the business in which he was engaged: opening his cloak bag,
-he took out a leathern box, observing, with exultation, “he had that
-within it, which would lash the heretics of Ireland.”  The hostess, Mrs.
-Elizabeth Mottershead, overheard this by accident, and, having a brother
-in Ireland, who was a Protestant, she became alarmed for his safety, and
-took the opportunity, while the Doctor was attending the Mayor down
-stairs, to open the box, take out the commission, and leave in its place
-a pack of cards, with the knave of clubs uppermost.  The Dean arrived in
-Ireland on the 7th of December, 1558.  Being introduced to the
-Lord-Deputy Fitzwalter and the Privy Council, he explained the nature of
-his embassy at greater length, and then presented the box, containing, as
-he thought, the commission.  His Lordship took it, and, having opened it,
-beheld, with considerable surprise, the pack of cards with the knave on
-the top.  The Doctor was thunderstruck; and, in much confusion, said that
-he certainly had a commission, and that some artful person must have made
-the exchange.  “Then,” said his Lordship, “you have nothing to do but to
-return to London, and get it renewed: meanwhile we will shuffle the
-cards.”  The Doctor was obliged to follow this unwelcome advice, but
-before he could reach Ireland a second time the Queen died, and her
-sanguinary commission became useless.  The woman, whose presence of mind
-and dexterity had thus providentially interposed, was rewarded by
-Elizabeth with a pension of forty pounds a year.
-
-During the civil war in the reign of Charles the First, Chester stood
-several sieges, which lasted about three years.  The inhabitants, who had
-sided with the king, endured great privations, but at last, when the
-siege was converted into a blockade, they surrendered on honourable terms
-to the parliamentary army.  The city is situated on a dry rock above the
-stream of the Dee, which flows round it on two sides.  The neighbouring
-district is a rich but level plain, presenting, however, some interesting
-views from the ancient walls of the town, which form one among the many
-remarkable features of Chester.  These walls, which are now used as a
-healthful and favourite promenade, are especially interesting, as being
-the only perfect military work of the kind remaining in England, and the
-circuit of them is somewhat more than a mile and three quarters.  They
-command many interesting prospects, and amongst them may be mentioned the
-views towards the forest hills, from the eastern point, towards North
-Wales and the Dee from the opposite side, and a fine view of the bridge
-and the river, with the surrounding country, from the south-east angle.
-At the sides of the walls are the remains of several ancient towers, and
-at the north-east angle is one which bears the name of the Phœnix Tower,
-remarkable from the circumstance of Charles the First having witnessed a
-part of the battle of Rowton Heath, from its leads, in 1645.
-
-The four principal gates of the city are the terminations of the four
-principal streets, named respectively Eastgate Street, Northgate Street,
-Bridge Street, and Foregate Street.  These four streets, as described by
-Pennant, are excavated and sunk many feet beneath the surface.  The
-carriages are driven far below the level of the kitchens, on a line with
-ranges of shops, over which, on each side of the streets, passengers may
-walk from end to end, secure from wet or heat, in galleries, (or _rows_,
-as they are called,) purloined from the first floor of each house, open
-in front, and balustraded.  The back courts of all these houses are level
-with the rows, but to go into any of these four streets it is necessary
-to descend a flight of several steps: the rows certainly form the most
-remarkable peculiarity of Chester, and the opinion of Mr. Ormerod is that
-they were first erected as galleries from which the citizens might defend
-themselves against those sudden inroads of armed cavalry, to which they
-were so much exposed in ancient times, in consequence of their position
-on the frontier of the English and Welsh.
-
-The most remarkable feature of Chester is its Cathedral, which was
-founded within the site of the Benedictine Abbey of St. Werburgh.  It is
-a spacious irregular building, composed of the red sandstone of the
-country, and was built, or rather rebuilt, during the reigns of Henry the
-Sixth, Seventh, and Eighth.  In the cloisters, and buildings adjacent,
-occur some interesting specimens of Norman architecture, and the early
-decorations of the pointed style.  The western front, and some other
-detached parts, exhibit equally beautiful specimens of the enriched
-Gothic, and the space occupied by the entire range of the conventual
-buildings furnishes a magnificent idea of the grandeur of the
-establishment.
-
-The old Norman castle was removed in 1790, to make room for the modern
-castle, which is, indeed, a noble structure, and contains the county
-courts, the gaol, the barracks, and the armoury.  The citizens of Chester
-were formerly as celebrated as those of Coventry for their dramatic
-performances, founded chiefly on scripture history.  They are attributed
-to one Randall, a monk of Chester Abbey, and are said to have been first
-performed between 1268 and 1273.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-My task is done, and I must now quit this lovely land—never perhaps to
-see it more.  But let me hope the sketches I have given of its various
-charms will induce others to take the path which I have pursued with so
-much pleasure.  It leads through the most interesting portion of the
-country.  For the artist, there is an inexhaustible store of beauty.  The
-geologist and mineralogist will find the lore they thirst for, in almost
-every hill and valley, through which they pass.  The smoke-dried citizen
-may have the London _blacks_ blown from his garments by the healthful
-mountain breeze, and drink huge draughts of the pure air until he feels
-intoxicated with pleasure, while he is enabled to supply himself cheaply
-with a valuable stock of delightful recollections that will enable him,
-at any time, to raise a visionary paradise around him—to banish painful
-thoughts; for, in fine, pain must give place to pleasure, gloom to
-sunshine, and sickness to invigorating health, in the enchanting
-principality of NORTH WALES.
-
-
-
-
-LIST OF FLIES, USED IN NORTH WALES.
-
-
-FEBRUARY.
-
-
-1.  Red Fly.—Middle of February, until the middle of October.  Fine days.
-2.  Dark Dun.—Middle of February, and continues through the Season.  Fine
-days.
-
-
-
-MARCH.
-
-
-3.  Blue Dun.—Beginning of March to the end of April.  Gloomy and wet
-days, from 10 to 3.
-4.  March Brown.—Middle of March, to the end of April.  Dark gloomy days,
-from 11 to 2.
-5.  Light Dun.—Beginning of March, and continues through the season.
-Gloomy days.
-6.  Oak, or Down-head Fly.—Middle of March and continues through the
-season.  Gloomy and wet days.
-7.  Hofland’s Fancy.—Woodcock’s Wing—brown cinnamon body, red legs, and
-two fibres of red hackle for tail.  Will do for Tal y Llyn, and if
-dressed larger, for Llyn Ogwen.
-
-
-
-APRIL.
-
-
-8.  Greentail.—Beginning of April for about ten days.  Warm bright
-mornings from 6 to 11.
-9.  Gravel Fly.—Latter end of April to end of May.  Fine days.
-10.  Small Stone Fly.—Middle of April to the end of May.  All weathers,
-and at any time of the day.  Does best in smaller brooks, and in rapid
-streams in rivers.
-
-
-
-MAY.
-
-
-11.  Marlow Buzz, or Coch y Bonddu.—All the season, but particularly in
-May, June, and July.  Gloomy and wet days.
-12.  May Fly.—All May and June.  Gloomy and wet days.
-13.  Horse Flesh, or the Cabin Fly.—May, June, and July.  All weathers.
-14.  Brook Fly.—The first of May to the latter end of September.  Hot
-weather.
-15.  Iron Blue.—About the 7th of May to the middle of June.  Will never
-kill except the wind is from the North or East.
-16.  Sand Fly.—About the middle of May, and continues for three months,
-all weathers, after 7 at night.
-17.  Green Drake.—About the 20th of May for 9 or 10 days, from 10 in the
-morning until dusk.
-18.  Gray Drake.—From the 27th or 28th of May, to middle of June, from 6
-or 7 in the evening to sunset.
-19.  Orl Fly.—Latter end of May to the latter end of June, from 4 o’Clock
-in the morning until 7 in the evening.  Hot weather.
-
-
-
-JUNE AND JULY.
-
-
-20.  Red Spinner.—Middle of June to the latter end of August.  In the
-evenings of very hot days, from seven o’clock, as long as you can see.
-21.  Hazle Fly.—About the latter end of June for nine or ten days.  Wet
-and gloomy weather.
-
-
-
-AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER.
-
-
-22.  Red Ant.—About the 10th or 12th of August, to the latter end of
-September.  Warm days, from noon until four.
-23.  Black Ant.—Same in every respect as Red Ant.
-24.  Little Pale Blue.—Middle of August to the latter end of September,
-from 10 in the morning till 3 in the afternoon.  Rough cold days.
-
-
-
-
-INDEX.
-
-
-Aber Glas Lyn, 88.
-Ardudwy, Pass of, 65, 71.
-Arran Vowddwy, 50.
-Arrenig Vawr, 50.
-Bala, 51.
-Bangor, 128, 129.
-Basingwerk Abbey, 139.
-Bardsey Island, Bards of, 64.
-Barmouth, 60, 62.
-Battlefield, 21.
-Berwyn Mountains, 29.
-Beddgelert, 89.
-Bettws y Coed, 106.
-Brynkinalt, 25.
-Britannia Tubular Bridge, 132.
-Butler, Lady, and Miss Ponsonby, 35.
-Bwlch Tyddiad, 69.
-Cader Idris, 54, 55, 60, 71.
-Carnarvon, 133, 134.
-Carreg y Gwalch, 107.
-Capel Curig, 100.
-Car, Jaunting, in Wales, 52.
-Cardigan Bay, Scenery and Views of, 78, 79.
-Carreg y Saeth, 68.
-Cave of Shenkin, 107.
-Ceiriog, River of, 24.
-„ Vale of the, 29.
-Chester, 143–147.
-Chirk, 24, 26, 29.
-Closs, John, Story of, and Monument, 99.
-Conwy, 118, 119–125.
-Corwen, 43.
-Constantinus, 135.
-Constantine, 135.
-Cors y gedol Hall, 63.
-Cricaeth Castle and Promontory, 78.
-Crogen Castle, 28.
-Cwm Bychan, Llyn y, 68.
-Cwmorddin Pool, 83.
-Cynvael Falls, 83.
-Dee, Vale of the, 32, 39, 43.
-„ Aqueduct and Viaduct, 32.
-Dinas Brân, Castell, 39.
-Dinas Gortin, 65.
-Dinas Gonwy, 126.
-Dinas Llyn, 92.
-Dolbadarn Castle, 97.
-Dolgelley, Vale of, 53–55.
-„ Town of, 56.
-Dolwyddelan Castle, 101.
-Drws y Nant, 53.
-Dwyryd, Valley of the River, 82.
-Edeyrnion, Vale of, 47.
-Edward First, his Wars in Wales, and Strongholds built by, 75, 78, 119,
-134.
-Einion, Gallantry of Davydd ab Ivan ab, 76.
-— Howel ab, 40.
-Eliseg, Pillar of, 43.
-Festiniog, 83.
-Flies used in North Wales, 149.
-Flint Castle, 139.
-Gelert, Llewelyn’s Hound, 90.
-Geirionydd Llyn, Antiquities of, 116.
-Glan y Llyn, 53.
-Gloddaeth, the Mansion of the Hon. Lloyd Mostyn, 126.
-Glossary, Welsh, ix.
-Glyndwr, Owen, 43, 44, 56, 59, 75.
-Gôch, Owen, his imprisonment, 97.
-Gôch, Gruffydd, Tomb of, 114.
-Gwydir Castle, 108.
-„ Chapel, 111.
-Gwynant Llyn, 92.
-Gwynedd, Owen, 29, 103.
-Hawarden, 141.
-Harlech Castle, 74, 75.
-Herbert, Sir Richard, 76.
-Howel, Coetmore, 114.
-Holywell, 136.
-Idwal, Llyn, and Cleft of Idwal Du, 103.
-Iorwerth, Llewelyn ab, Tomb of, 114.
-Kymmer Abbey, 58.
-Llan Tegai Parish, 104.
-Llandudno, 126.
-Llangollen Road Station, 22.
-Llanberis Pass, 96.
-„ Church, 98.
-Llandrillo, Village of, 46.
-Llangollen, Vale and Town of, 34, 34.
-Llanrwst, 110.
-Llewelyn, Prince of Wales, 97, 141.
-Lloyd, Griffith, the Rector of Llanrwst, 115.
-Llugwy River, 105.
-Llyanyrch, Llyn, 83.
-Madoc, Port, 84.
-Mannod Llyn, 83.
-Maentwrog Village, 80.
-Mawddach River, 62.
-Menai Bridge, 130.
-Moel Siabod, 101.
-Mortimer, Roger, Earl of Wigmore, 28.
-Morwynion, Llyn, 65.
-Nannau Park, 59.
-Offa’s Dyke, 29.
-Ogwen Llyn, and Falls of Benclog, 101, 102.
-Orme’s Head, the Great, 126.
-Padarn Llyn, 97.
-Peris Llyn, 97.
-Pedestrians, Fashionable in Wales, 23.
-Penrhyn Castle, 129.
-Pembroke, William Herbert, Earl of, 76.
-Pistyll y Cain, and Falls of the River Mawddach, 58.
-Pistyll Rhaiadr, 27.
-Pont y Pair, Bridge of the Caldron, 107.
-Pwllheli, 64.
-Rhaiadr y Wennol, 103.
-Rhaiadr y Parc Mawr, 116.
-Rhaiadr Du, 58.
-Rhys Gôch o’r Eryri, 89.
-Rhyl, 136.
-Richard the Second, 121, 140.
-Scott, Sir Walter, Note to his “Marmion,” 60.
-Segontium, 135.
-Shrewsbury, 21.
-Snowdon and Snowdonia, 92, 94.
-Taliesin, the Bard’s Abode, 116.
-Tan y Bwlch, 82.
-Tegid, Llyn, 50.
-Tevi, River, 102.
-Tommen y Bala, 51.
-Traeth Mawr, and Traeth Bâch, Arms of the Sea, 78.
-Trevriew, Village of, 117.
-Tremadoc, the Town of, 86.
-Trivaen, the Crags of, 103.
-Trout Fishing in Wales, 19, 58, 83, 95, 149.
-Tudor Trevor, Family of, 25, 40.
-Tudno, St., Cradle of, 127.
-Valle Crucis Abbey, 40.
-Vortigern’s Hill, 91.
-Wellington, Duke of, 25.
-Winefred’s Well & Legend, 137.
-Wnion, the, River of, 54.
-Wynne, Account of the family, 111.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-                     JOHN MORGAN; PRINTER, OSWESTRY.
-
-
-
-
-MAP OF NORTH WALES.
-
-
-[The book contains a large folding map of North Wales, which the
-transcriber could not scan as a single piece.  It’s produced as four
-parts below.—DP.]
-
-
-
-NORTH WEST NORTH WALES.
-
-
-                [Picture: Map of North Wales, North-West]
-
-
-
-NORTH EAST NORTH WALES.
-
-
-                [Picture: Map of North Wales, North-West]
-
-
-
-SOUTH WEST NORTH WALES.
-
-
-                [Picture: Map of North Wales, South-West]
-
-
-
-SOUTH EAST NORTH WALES.
-
-
-                [Picture: Map of North Wales, South-East]
-
-
-
-
-***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE TOURIST'S GUIDE THROUGH NORTH
-WALES***
-
-
-******* This file should be named 64195-0.txt or 64195-0.zip *******
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