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-The Project Gutenberg eBook, A sentimental & practical guide to Amesbury
-and Stonehenge, by Florenace Caroline Mathilde Antrobus, Illustrated by
-Clarisse Miles
-
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-
-Title: A sentimental & practical guide to Amesbury and Stonehenge
-
-
-Author: Florenace Caroline Mathilde Antrobus
-
-
-
-Release Date: December 29, 2020 [eBook #64167]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-
-***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A SENTIMENTAL & PRACTICAL GUIDE TO
-AMESBURY AND STONEHENGE***
-
-
-Transcribed from the 1908? edition, by David Price.
-
- [Picture: Map of the Amesbury area]
-
-
-
-
-
- A SENTIMENTAL & PRACTICAL
- GUIDE TO AMESBURY AND
- STONEHENGE, COMPILED
- BY LADY ANTROBUS
-
-
- * * * * *
-
- DEDICATED TO MY MOTHER
- GEORGINA ALICIA SARTORIS
-
- * * * * *
-
- _TENTH THOUSAND_
-
- * * * * *
-
- ESTATE OFFICE: AMESBURY, WILTS
-
-
-
-
-PREFACE.
-
-
-IN compiling this little Guide Book, I have somewhat departed from the
-ordinary lines, but I venture to hope that the traveller to Amesbury and
-Stonehenge will not like it the worse on that account. I am much
-indebted to the kindness of Mrs. GORDON and of Messrs. MURRAY, BARCLAY,
-STORY MASKELYNE, and HEWITT, for allowing me to quote from their works,
-also to the Editor of the _Ladies’ Realm_, for permission to use an
-article by me which appeared in the February number of that magazine,
-and, above all, to Miss CLARISSE MILES, for the charming photographs
-which illustrate my book.
-
- FLORENCE CAROLINE MATHILDE ANTROBUS.
-
-_Amesbury Abbey_,
- _Salisbury_, 1900.
-
-
-
-
-GUIDE TO AMESBURY AND STONEHENGE.
-
-
-Leaving Salisbury by what is called the “Upper Road” to Amesbury, one
-travels across a tract of bleak and rather uninteresting downs. About
-two miles from Salisbury (on the left) Old Sarum stands up conspicuously,
-and is the only object of interest till one arrives at Amesbury, eight
-miles distant from Salisbury. Amesbury calls itself a town, and boasts
-of several shops and the telegraph. A railway station is in process of
-construction. In Aubrey’s times Amesbury was celebrated for its tobacco
-pipes, marked with a gauntlet, the name of the maker. Of these, several
-specimens are to be found in the museum at Salisbury.
-
-Returning to Salisbury from Amesbury, and taking “the Bourne” route,
-there is a beautiful drive winding along the banks of the Avon. I give a
-short account of the most interesting places the traveller meets with on
-his homeward journey.
-
-
-
-
-OLD SARUM.
-
-
-LIES two miles from Salisbury, and stands up, making a bold outline in
-the surrounding open country. It is a hill, bare now, save for some
-trees, encircled with entrenchments, with a central mound peering above
-them. But centuries ago this spot was crowded with buildings—religious,
-military, and domestic, and was one of the most important in our island.
-Some say that the ancient British name was _Caer Sarflag_, the “City of
-the Service Tree.” Its Roman name was _Sorbiodunun_, the Saxon
-_Sarobyrig_. The face of the hill is smooth and very steep. The summit
-is fenced by a mighty earthen rampart and ditch, protected by a lower
-raised bank outside of it, the height from the top of the one to the
-bottom of the other being 106 feet. The surface of the hill is an
-elongated circular area of 27½ acres. In the centre of the area is a
-second circular earthwork and ditch 100 feet high, and within these stood
-the citadel. On the top of the earthwork surrounding the citadel was a
-very strong wall 12 feet thick, of flint embedded in rubble, and coated
-with square stones, of which some portion remain. To the great outer
-earthwork there were two entrances—one (guarded by a hornwork still
-remaining) on the western, another (the postern) on the eastern side.
-The site of the citadel is now overgrown with briers and brushwood; the
-rest of the area is partly in a state of nature, partly cultivated.
-“Celt and Roman alike had seen the military value of the height from
-which the eye sweeps nowadays over the grassy meadows of the Avon to the
-arrowy spire of Salisbury; and, admirable as the position was in itself,
-it had been strengthened at a vast cost of labour. The camp on the
-summit of the knoll was girt in by a trench hewn so deeply in the chalk
-that, from the inner side of it, the white face of the rampart rose 100
-feet high, while strong outworks protected the approaches to the fortress
-from the west and from the east.”
-
-Though there may have been a British stronghold here, still, it is the
-opinion of good antiquaries that there is now no British work to be seen;
-that the Romans took possession of the hill and defended it by a simple
-escarpment, without any ditch, but with outworks at the entrances; and
-that the ditch now on the face of the scarp, as well as the central
-citadel and its defences, were added by the Saxons, and perhaps by
-Alfred, who, in his war with the Danes, certainly paid great attention to
-strengthening the position. There are Roman roads to Silchester,
-Winchester, Dorchester, Uphill, on the Bristol Channel, and others, it is
-believed, to Bath and Marlborough. Cynric the Saxon won a victory over
-the Britons in 552. In 960, Edgar held his Council here. In 1003,
-Seweyn and the Danes are said to have stormed it. In the time of the
-Confessor a monastery of nuns was established. It was not till 1072 that
-it became the seat of a bishop. The kingdom of Wessex originally formed
-one diocese, and the see being fixed 683, St. Hædde being bishop, the see
-was removed to Winchester. In 705, the diocese was divided, a new see
-for the district of E. Selwood being fixed at Sherborne, whose first
-bishop was St. Ealdhelm. A further subdivision took place in 909, a new
-see for Berks and Wilts being created at Ramsbury, which was reunited to
-Sherborne by Bishop Herman 1045, who in 1072 transferred the see to Old
-Sarum. In 1070 William the Conqueror, as the closing act of his
-conquest, reviewed his victorious army on the plain below Old Sarum,
-where now the modern city stands, rewarding its leaders with lands and
-gifts. The Castellanship of Sarum he gave to his kinsman, Osmund, who
-afterwards, taking Holy Orders, succeeded Herman in the see. In 1086 the
-King assembled here, the year before his death, all the chief landowners
-of the realm to swear that “whose men soever they were they would be
-faithful to him against all other men,” by which “England was made ever
-afterwards an undivided kingdom.”
-
-Bishop Osmund finished his new cathedral in 1092, “and established the
-new ritual ‘ad usum Sarum.’” The foundations of the cathedral were
-visible in the very dry summer of 1834. It was in the form of a cross
-270 feet long by 70 feet wide, the transept of the same width and 150
-feet long. Its plan is remarkable for having a square instead of an
-apsidal East end, and a Galilee or Atrium at the West end. Within a few
-days of its consecration a thunderstorm seriously injured the roofs and
-walls. Robert of Gloucester, alluding to the fifth year of the reign of
-William II., sings:—
-
- “So gret lytnynge was the vyfte yer so that al to noghte
- The rof of the Chyrch of Salesbury it bronte
- Rygh even the vyfte day that he y hawled was.”
-
-Henry the First’s celebrated chancellor, Bishop Roger, improved both the
-church and its fortifications. In the reign of Stephen the place began
-to decline. The soldiers and priests, cooped up into so small a space,
-could not agree. The situation was cold and windy, and water was scarce.
-Bishop Richard Poore is said to have been directed in a vision to build
-upon the maer (or boundary) field, called in some accounts Miry-Field or
-the Merrifield, where a new church (the present cathedral) was begun.
-The citizens migrated, the great travelling road was diverted to the new
-site, and the days of Old Sarum were numbered. A charter granted to the
-new town sealed its fate. Very little, however, is known about the real
-history of the transference of the people from one place to the other.
-There are some reasons for believing that a new town had been growing up
-by degrees long before the cathedral was built at New Sarum. Being only
-1600 feet in diameter, Old Sarum must have afforded small space for a
-cathedral, bishop’s palace, a garrison, streets and houses. The
-cathedral was taken down in 1331 (Edward III.), and its materials used in
-building the new spire, Close Walls, &c. Leland (temp. Henry VIII.)
-reports some portions of the building as visible in his time, but says:
-“There is not one house neither within or without Old Saresbyri
-inhabited. Much notable ruinus building of the castell yet ther
-remaynith. The ditch that envirined the old town was a very deepe and
-strong thynge.” The walls remained till 1608, and served as a quarry.
-Fisherton old county jail (inter alia) was built out of them. The great
-hollow enclosure of Old Sarum, girt by its frowning earthwork (not unlike
-the crater of a volcano), is certainly a solemn and desolate place.
-Pepys, passing by, and not knowing what it was, desired to examine it.
-“I saw a great fortification,” he says, “and there light and to it and in
-it, and find it so prodigious so as to frighten one to be in it all alone
-at that time of night.” A subterranean passage was discovered in 1795.
-The foundations of towers may be traced, and many Roman coins have been
-met with. Old Salisbury has given a title to the families of d’Eureux or
-Devereux, Longespee, Montacute, Nevill Plantagenet, and the Cecil family,
-who still enjoy it. The ground ceased to be Crown property in 1447, when
-it was granted by James I. to the Lords Stourton; on forfeiture by them,
-it was granted by James I. to the Cecils. They sold it to Governor Pitt,
-and the Earl of Chatham sold it to the Earl of Caledon. It was
-subsequently purchased by the Ecclesiastical Commission. Its dignity as
-the resort of kings and seat of councils ceased with the growth of the
-younger city; but it long retained one relic of its former greatness, the
-right of returning two members to Parliament, which was duly exercised
-until the passing of the Reform Bill, although for many a year only two
-or three cottages had existed. The elections were held at the foot of
-the hill on Election Acre, where a tent was pitched beneath the branches
-of an elm-tree, which is still pointed out as occupying the site of the
-last remaining house.
-
- [Picture: Saint Mary’s, Amesbury. (Photo Miss Weed Ward.)]
-
-
-
-
-STRATFORD-SUB-CASTLE.
-
-
-LIES close under the hill of Old Sarum, and derives its name from the
-Roman “street” or road which here “forded” the river on its course to
-Bradbury Rings and Dorchester. The manor house was the residence of
-William Pitt, Earl of Chatham, who was first returned to Parliament
-(1735) as member for those vacant mounds on the hill above. Governor
-Pitt purchased the manor in 1690 for 1500_l._, and Lord Grenville, who
-had married the sister of Thomas Pitt, Lord Camelford, afterwards sold it
-for 65,000_l._ to Lord Caledon. In 1801 John Horne Tooke was returned by
-Lord Camelford, and in his case the question of the disability of
-clergymen to sit as Members of Parliament was tried and settled. The
-doorhead of the quaint gabled parsonage bears the inscription, “Parva sed
-lapsa domino 1675.” A charming lime avenue leads from the parsonage to
-the church, which contains an hour glass stand for the pulpit.
-
-
-
-
-THE CHURCH, AMESBURY.
-
-
- DEDICATED TO THE MEMORIES OF ST. MARY AND ST. MELORUS.
-
-ONE of the finest in Wiltshire. A fourteenth century nave roof covers a
-Norman nave, and a thirteenth century chapel possesses a beautiful
-window, with two lights, and slender delicate column and sculptured leafy
-cap. Archæologists dispute as to whether this is the abbey church (a
-Benedictine order founded by Queen Elfrida to expiate the murder of her
-step-son at Corfe) or merely the parish church. I consider that there
-can be _no_ doubt that it is the abbey church, and in my next edition I
-hope this fact will be proved from excavations to be made under the
-superintendence of Mr. Detmar Blow, the architect for the structural
-repairs that are, unfortunately, necessary, the four angles of the church
-tower and the voussoirs of the arch having become separated, &c. Only
-1400_l._ is needed, and subscriptions will be gratefully acknowledged by
-the Manager of the Wilts and Dorset Bank, Amesbury, Wilts; or Lady
-Antrobus, Amesbury Abbey. An unfortunate “restoration” was made in 1853,
-which swept away the furnishings of the Early Romantic period.
-
- FLORENCE C. M. ANTROBUS.
-
- [Picture: Amesbury Abbey, seat of the Duke of Queensbury. (From an Old
- Engraving.)]
-
-
-
-
-AMESBURY ABBEY.
-
-
- SALISBURY.
-
-SINCE writing the above little note on Amesbury church, the necessary
-repairs to the tower have been most sympathetically carried out by Mr.
-Detmar Blow. No changes are to be noticed from the exterior—the test of
-a good architect’s work applied to old buildings. The underpinning
-disclosed the remains of a Saxon pillar embedded in the masonry of the
-nave wall—may not this fact go to prove that the present building stands
-on the site of Elfrida’s church? At the completion of Mr. Blow’s work,
-which includes the underpinning of the tower, repairs to the nave, and
-the rehanging of the bells, further repairs were found to be necessary.
-The Rev. F. Windley (the new vicar) held a meeting, dismissing Mr. Blow
-and appointing Mr. Warre as architect in his place, with most unfortunate
-results. The roof of the exquisite little chapel has been removed and
-altered to a higher pitch, inferior flint work used, and crude yellow
-stones instead of the beautiful silvery-grey old coping. This act of
-vandalism was done against the wishes of the Society for the Protection
-of Ancient Buildings, and my own. No “restorations” (so called) should
-ever be allowed for these buildings, only “repairs.” The pitch of the
-old roof should not have been altered, even if originally higher, as, so
-to speak, the whole thing had grown together; also nothing but old stones
-for coping should have been used, and grey flints instead of black ones.
-It is extraordinary to see the damage done to the rare and beautiful
-buildings in this neighbourhood. Yellow stones, hideous in colour, put
-in with still more hideous plaster, is the local idea of suitable
-“restoration.” The vandal architect Butterfield buried (in 1853) under
-the chancel the memorial tablets, at the same time breaking up the lovely
-old font and burying its remains. This latter has been beautifully
-mended by Mr. Kite, builder. The memorial tablets, some very beautiful,
-have not yet been rehung, as they should be, in the body of the church.
-
- [Picture: Amesbury Abbey, 1900]
-
-I was requested to give a cross for the altar. I had a copy made of the
-celebrated Celtic “Cross of Cong.” I also presented an altar-cloth of
-old crimson Italian damask (from Florence). A dove, embroidered in
-different tones of gold and silver thread, decorates the frontal. Mr.
-Windley thought fit to cut and alter this altar-cloth, adding an
-unsuitable top and fringe, and spoiling the effect of the chancel by
-covering the pink alabaster with cheap, ugly, woven materials. The
-effect of the delicate lines of the Celtic cross and the crimson damask
-are by this treatment utterly ruined.
-
- FLORENCE C. M. ANTROBUS.
-
-_February_ 9_th_, 1908.
-
-
-
-
-AMESBURY ABBEY: ITS HISTORY, ANCIENT AND MODERN.
-
-
-THE river Avon, on its course to the sea, passes through a beautiful,
-thickly wooded valley in Wiltshire, in which lies Amesbury, or, to follow
-the old spelling, Ambresbury, signifying the land of Ambrosius. This
-fascinating place, and the wild country surrounding it, possess a charm
-and beauty all their own, and those born and bred there ever pine for the
-breezy downs, as the Swiss for their mountains or north-country people
-for the moorland; and no one who has walked or ridden on some glorious
-summer morning over the fine, close grass clothing these Wiltshire downs
-can ever forget its delicious “springy” quality underfoot. A talented
-modern artist once happily christened Amesbury “The Golden Valley;” he
-saw it in the spring, at which season of the year the whole country-side
-seems ablaze with brilliant yellow flowers.
-
- [Picture: The Palladian Bridge]
-
-Amesbury lies eight miles north of Salisbury, and we may consider that it
-occupies a space in the midst of that vast tract of undulating country
-that (somewhat erroneously to my mind) is given the name of “Salisbury
-Plain.” I now propose to trace, as briefly as I can, some of the history
-of this interesting and beautiful place. Its antiquity is so great as to
-take us back to pre-historic times. In its near neighbourhood many
-desperate battles were fought between Briton, Saxon, and Roman with
-varying success. Lewis, in his ancient _History of Britain_, says: “In
-the reign of Vortigern, 461 A.D., a Conference was appointed to take
-place near the Abbey of Ambri, with Hengist the Saxon, and it was agreed
-that both parties should come without armour. But Hengist, under colour
-of peace, devised the subversion of all the nobility of Britain, and
-chose out to come to this assembly his faithfullest and hardiest men,
-commanding every one of them to hide under their garment a long knife,
-with which, when he should give the watchword, every one should kill the
-Briton next him. Both sides met upon the day appointed, and, treating
-earnestly upon the matter, Hengist suddenly gave the watchword and caught
-Vortigern by the collar, upon which the Saxons, with their long knives,
-violently murdered the innocent and unarmed Britons. Thus were 460 earls
-and noblemen of the Britons treacherously murdered. They were buried in
-the convent at Amesbury. This massacre took place near Stonehenge, where
-repeated battles were fought between Ambrosius and Hengist.” {10}
-
-There is a fanciful legend, told by an old writer called Geoffrey of
-Monmouth, about Stonehenge. He says that Ambrosius, wishing to
-commemorate those who had fallen in battle, thought fit to send for
-Merlin the Wizard, to consult him on the proper monument to be erected to
-the memory of the slain. On being interrogated Merlin replied, “Send for
-the ‘Giants’ Dance,’ which is in Killarus (Kildare), a mountain in
-Ireland; they are stones of a vast magnitude, and if they can be placed
-here quite round this spot of ground they will stand _for ever_.” At
-these words Aurelius laughed and said, “How was it possible to remove
-such stones from so distant a country, and had not Britain as good
-stones?” Merlin replied “that they were mystical stones and had a
-medicinal virtue,” whereupon the Britons resolved to send for them and to
-risk a battle. Upon landing in Ireland, the removal of the stones was
-violently opposed by Gillomanius, a youth of wonderful valour. At the
-head of a vast army, he exclaimed, “While I have life they shall not take
-from us the least stone of the Giants’ Dance.” A battle ensued, which
-was won by the Britons. They then proceeded to Killarus, where the sight
-of the stones filled them with joy and admiration, and, while they were
-all standing round, Merlin asked them to try and remove the stones.
-Their efforts proving futile, he laughingly proceeded with his own
-contrivances, and took down the stones with incredible facility. This
-done, they set sail to Britain, and repaired to the burial-place with the
-stones, Aurelius ordering Merlin to get them up in the same manner as
-they had been in the mountain of Killarus, which he accordingly did.
-
-Queen Elfrida, who performed many penances and built monasteries in
-atonement for the crime of the murder of her step-son, Edward the Martyr,
-founded a Benedictine nunnery at Amesbury in 980. This nunnery
-flourished for many years, until the ill-conduct of the nuns caused King
-Henry II. to expel them (1177), and place them under stricter discipline
-in other religious houses. He then gave the monastery of Ambresbury to
-the Abbey of Fontevrault, in Normandy. This order was founded by Robert
-d’Arbrissel about the end of the eleventh century. It is looked upon as
-a singularity in the church, some finding it strange to see an abbess
-exercising equal authority over men as well as women. Before his death
-d’Arbrissel appointed Petronilla de Craou Chemille as head and chief of
-his order, of which he drew up statutes, putting them under the order of
-St. Benedict. Under the new rule, this monastery increased in splendour
-and royal favour, King John conferring upon it important privileges.
-Eleanor, only daughter of Geoffrey, Earl of Bretagne, was buried,
-according to her own request, at Ambresbury in 1241. Mary, sixth
-daughter of Edward I., together with thirteen young ladies of royal
-birth, took the veil in 1283; and two years afterwards, anno 1287,
-Eleanor, queen of Henry III., entered the order, and died and was buried
-at Ambresbury in 1292. The monastery continued to prosper, and became
-one of the richest in England. The following names of the prioresses
-have been preserved:—Isabella of Lancaster, fourth daughter of Henry,
-Earl of Lancaster; Joan de Gennes; Sibilla de Montacute; Katherine of
-Arragon lodged within the convent walls on her first arrival in England
-in 1501.
-
- [Picture: Chinese Summer House]
-
-At the time of the Reformation, the last prioress (but one), Florence
-Bormewe, refused to surrender her monastery to the King’s emissaries.
-They wrote: “Albeit we have used as many ways with her as our poor wits
-could attain, yet in the end we could not by any persuasion bring her to
-any conformity, but at all times she resteth and so remaineth in these
-terms.” She answered, “If the King’s Highness command me to go from this
-house I will gladly go, though I beg my bread, and as for pension I care
-for none.” The death of this brave prioress saved her from further
-humiliation.
-
-Joan Darell was abbess at the time of the Dissolution; she surrendered to
-King Henry VIII. Dec. 4th, 1540.
-
-The old Chronicle of Geoffrey of Monmouth gives Amesbury as the place of
-Queen Guinevere’s penitential retirement. The modern poet, Tennyson,
-takes the same view:
-
- “Queen Guinevere had fled the Court and sat
- There in the holy house at Almesbury.”
-
-Antiquarians disagree as to whether the fine church now standing—with its
-lancet windows, pointed arches, and massive turret—is the old abbey
-church, or only that of the parish. In an obscure corner at the back of
-the church is found a window of quite another description—very beautiful,
-and more approaching to the “rose” style of architecture. Of the old
-stained glass only a few broken fragments remain. On one piece is a
-picture of a fair-haired, long-necked woman suppose to represent Queen
-Guinevere.
-
-The churchyard (lying to the south of the old church), with its grey
-tombstones and dark green yew-trees, has a solemn, calm and peaceful air.
-Over a grave is found the following epitaph:—
-
- “Altho’ his body here doth lye
- Till the last trump doth it raise,
- His soul is now in heaven high
- And sings Jehovah’s praise.”
-
-I now finish my description of Amesbury’s monastic period and turn to the
-modern years. According to a good authority, Henry VIII. bestowed
-Amesbury upon Edward, Earl of Hertford, afterwards Duke of Somerset and
-Lord Protector in the succeeding reign. After his trial, death sentence,
-and execution, the lands were confiscated by the Crown till the reign of
-Queen Elizabeth, who probably restored them to the Protector’s son,
-Edward Seymour, Earl of Hertford. This gentleman was thrice married, his
-last wife being a widow of fascinating beauty and charm. She had
-previously been engaged to Sir George Rodney, who loved her madly, but,
-being ambitious, she left him for Lord Hertford. The day before the
-marriage, Sir George Rodney travelled to the inn at Amesbury and waited
-for the home-coming of the bride and bridegroom. All the night he
-occupied himself by composing a dying love song written with his own
-blood. Upon the arrival in the village of his false love, he went to
-greet her, and fell upon his sword and expired at her feet. I give the
-following extract from the poem, which is somewhat long and tedious:—
-
- “Sir George Rodney before he killed himself—
- What shall I do that am undone,
- Where shall I fly myself to shunne?
- Ah mee! myselfe must kill,
- And yet I die against my will.
- In starry letters I behold
- My death in the Heavens enrolled.
- There finde it wrytt in skyes above
- That I (poore I) must die for love.
- ’Twas not my love deserved to die,
- O no! it was unworthy I.
- I for her love should not have dyde,
- But that I had no worth beside.
- Ah mee! that love such woe procures,
- For without her no love endures.
- I for her vertues her doe serve,
- Doth such a love a death deserve?”
-
-Lady Hertford presented a bell to the parish of Amesbury. An inscription
-on it runs thus:—
-
- “Be stronge in faythe, prayes God well.
- Frances, Countess Hertford’s bell.”
-
- [Picture: Kent House]
-
-After the Seymour period, the Amesbury estates passed through different
-hands, belonging in 1720 to Henry, Lord Carleton; he having purchased
-them from Charles, Lord Bruce, son of the Earl of Ailesbury. Lord
-Carleton left them by will to his nephew, Charles, Duke of Queensberry,
-in 1724, who married the charming Lady Catherine Hyde in 1720. This
-couple spent much time at Amesbury, altering and improving it in various
-ways, and entertaining their friends.
-
-The poet Gay was a devoted friend and admirer of the Duchess, who,
-indeed, seems to have been an attractive woman of immense spirit and wit.
-She offended George II. and his Queen by her defence of Gay’s play, the
-_Beggars’ Opera_, and was forbidden the Court for some time; but she,
-standing firmly by her friend, refused to retract or alter her
-sentiments, and finally forced the Court to receive and forgive her.
-Here is a copy of her message to the King:—
-
- “_Feb._ 27_th_, 1729.
-
- “That the Duchess of Queensberry is surprised and well pleased the
- King has given her so agreeable a command as to stay from Court,
- where she never came for diversion, but to bestow a civility upon the
- King and Queen. She hopes, by such an unprecedented order as this,
- that the King will see as few as he wishes at his Court, particularly
- such as dare to think or speak truth. I dare not do otherwise, and
- ought not nor could not have imagin’d that it would not have been the
- very highest compliment that I could possibly pay the King, to
- endeavour to support truth and innocence in this house.
-
- (Signed) “C. QUEENSBERRY.”
-
-The following is an extract from a letter from Gay to Swift:—“To the lady
-I live with I owe my life and fortune; think of her with respect, value
-and esteem her as I do. She hath so much goodness, virtue, and
-generosity, that if you knew her you would have a pleasure in obeying her
-as I do.” In another letter from Gay to Swift, the former presses his
-coming to join the party at Amesbury, saying (speaking of the
-Duchess):—“I think her so often in the right, you will have great
-difficulties to persuade me she is in the wrong. The lady of the house
-is not given to show civility to those she does not like. She speaks her
-mind and loves truth, for the uncommonness of the thing. I fancy your
-curiosity will prevail over your fear, and you will like to see such a
-woman. But I say no more till I know whether her Grace will fill up the
-rest of the paper.” P.S. by the Duchess: “Write I must, particularly
-now, as I have an opportunity to indulge my predominant passion of
-Contradiction. I do, in the first place, contradict most things Mr. Gay
-says of me to deter you from coming here, which, if ever you do, I hereby
-assure you that, unless I like my own way better, you shall have yours;
-and in all disputes you shall convince me if you can. But, by what I see
-of you, this is not a misfortune that will always happen, for I find you
-a great mistaker. For example, you take prudence for imperiousness.
-’Tis from this I first determined not to like one who is too giddy-headed
-for me to be certain whether or no I shall ever be acquainted with him.
-I have known people take great delight in building castles in the air;
-but I should choose to build friendship on a more solid foundation. I
-would fain know you, for I often hear more likeable things than ’tis
-possible any one can deserve. Pray come that I may find out something
-wrong, for I, and I believe most women, have an inconceivable pleasure to
-find out any faults except their own.” P.S.—“Mr. Gay is very peevish
-that I spell and write ill, but I don’t care, for neither the pen nor I
-can do better!”
-
- [Picture: The Diamond]
-
-This Duchess also attracted the attention of Prior, who wrote the
-well-known ballad:—
-
-
-
-THE FEMALE PHAETON.
-
-
- I.
-
- Thus Kitty beautiful and young,
- And wild as colt untam’d,
- Bespoke the Fair from whence she sprung
- With little rage inflam’d.
-
- II.
-
- Inflam’d with rage at sad restraint,
- Which wise mamma ordained,
- And sorely vex’d to play the saint
- Whilst wit and beauty reigned.
-
- III.
-
- “Shall _I_ thumb holy books confin’d
- With Abigails forsaken?
- Kitty’s for other things design’d,
- Or I am much mistaken.
-
- IV.
-
- “Must Lady Jenny frisk about
- And visit with her cousins?
- At ball must _she_ make all the rout
- And bring home hearts by dozens?
-
- V.
-
- “What has _she_ better pray than I,
- What hidden charms to boast,
- That all mankind for her should die
- While I am scarce a toast?
-
- VI.
-
- “Dearest mamma, for once let me
- Unchain’d my fortune try:
- I’ll have an Earl as well as she
- Or know the reason why.
-
- VII.
-
- “I’ll soon with Jenny’s pride quit score,
- Make all her lovers fall;
- They’ll grieve I was not loos’d before,
- _She_ I was loos’d at all.”
-
- VIII.
-
- Fondness prevailed, mamma gave way,
- Kitty, at heart’s desire,
- Obtained the chariot for a day
- And set the world on fire.
-
-This lady’s luck and happiness appear to vanish in later life, both her
-sons meeting tragic deaths; the eldest, Viscount Drumlanrig, shooting
-himself, the second, Lord Charles Douglas, dying of consumption at
-Amesbury, having just escaped the perils of the great earthquake at
-Lisbon.
-
-The Duchess died July 19th, 1777, aged 77, and the Duke the following
-year.
-
-The title of Duke of Queensberry descended to the Duke’s cousin, William,
-Earl of March and Raglin. In 1778 he succeeded his cousin Charles as 4th
-Duke of Queensberry, and in 1786 was created a British peer, taking the
-title of Baron Douglas of Ambresbury. This eccentric nobleman never
-married, and was commonly known by the nickname of “Old Q.” He died in
-1810, the Amesbury estate passing to Archibald, Lord Douglas of Douglas,
-whose executors sold it in 1824 to Sir Edmund Antrobus, Bart., my
-husband’s great-great-uncle.
-
-No record is to be found of the destruction of the Abbey, Lord Hertford
-apparently building himself a house in Amesbury. In “Vitruvius
-Britannicus” there is a picture of a fine mansion in the Palladian style,
-built for Lord Carleton from designs by Inigo Jones, the architect being
-Mr. Webb, nephew of Inigo Jones.
-
-The Queensberrys added wings to this house, and caused a beautiful bridge
-to span the river Avon, which runs through the grounds. A pretty old
-house stands in the park, near an old entrance: tradition tells us the
-Duchess of Queensberry used this lodge as a dairy. It possesses two
-octagon rooms (one over the other), and an underground passage is
-supposed to connect it with the river. The park is small, but extremely
-pretty; one enters it through splendid old gates supported by Palladian
-pillars.
-
-Opposite the dwelling house is a high bank cut into a fantastic shape and
-known as “The Diamond.” The cave in which the poet Gay loved to write is
-hollowed in this bank. The wild-bird-frequented Avon {18} runs below,
-and above it is crowned by a beautiful wood planted over what is called
-“Vespasian’s Camp.” In this wood are found two avenues of beech-trees,
-and walking through the old deer park and across the Downs, at a mile and
-a half’s distance, glorious Stonehenge bursts upon one.
-
-Returning to Amesbury, and following the course of the river in the
-opposite direction, one comes upon a little house built of flints, with
-quaint pointed roof and tower, in which the floor of a small upper
-chamber is found to be movable; outside, over a door, the stone moulding
-bears this inscription:
-
- “Diana, her hovs—1600.”
-
-Diana certainly possessed a picturesque dwelling, but I can find no clue
-to her identity. After the death of the last Duke of Queensberry,
-Amesbury House remained uninhabited for sixty years, except during the
-tenancy of Sir Elijah Impey, and when some French nuns occupied it for a
-short period.
-
-My husband’s grandfather, on inheriting Amesbury from his uncle (the
-first Sir Edmund Antrobus), wished to enlarge and restore the old house,
-but finding it in too dilapidated a state, decided to pull it down, and
-in 1838 began to build an entirely new house (closely resembling the old
-one) of handsome cut stone, with a grand loggia, supported by beautiful
-pillars and ornamented with carved stonework of fine design. This house
-is supposed to stand on the site of the old Abbey, and many traces of
-cells were discovered, underground, when digging foundations. To-day not
-a single stone of the old Abbey remains above ground to remind us of its
-former existence and splendour; it having once covered, tradition says, a
-space of thirteen acres.
-
- * * * * *
-
-NOTE.—Some beautiful coloured tiles decorated with different intricate
-patterns were dug up near the present house at Amesbury. We suppose them
-to be from the cells of the old Abbey. Some have designs of the
-_Fleur-de-lys_ on them.
-
-
-
-
-PRICELESS STONEHENGE—SOME IMPRESSIONS.
-
-
- (From _Ladies’ Realm_ Magazine.)
-
-THE Great Druidical Temple, or (as some hold) Phœnician Observatory,
-composed of gigantic, beautifully-coloured, hewn stones, stands in the
-middle of Salisbury Plain. These stones have been measured, counted,
-defaced, praised, depreciated, commented upon, by numerous authorities on
-countless occasions, but (to my knowledge) no account of their poetical
-and picturesque aspects, at different seasons of the year, has been
-attempted. I shall feel satisfied if I succeed in conveying feebly in
-words what David Cox (the artist) did ably in colours, with his glowing
-brush. I do not propose to enter into any statistics, as to the “Market
-value of Stonehenge to the nation,” or to tell you the number of miles
-that lie between it and the town of Salisbury, the goodness or
-inferiority of the roads to it, the number of visiting tourists, &c.; I
-only wish to place before you some impressions I have felt of its
-grandeur and charm, through many seasons, in all sorts of weather, and
-varying moods.
-
-There is always a constant surprise and delight to me in the manner in
-which Stonehenge bursts upon one, approach it as one may, from various
-points across the undulating Plain which surrounds it. Starting upon
-one’s “Pilgrim’s Path” to visit it, from any side, at first there is
-nothing to be seen but the crisp crackling grass underfoot, and the white
-glittering roads; then, as one advances nearer, unexpectedly, dark,
-mysterious forms seem to start up, which gradually shape themselves into
-the incompleted circle we call “Stonehenge.”
-
-The late spring, and early summer, are enchanting periods; myriads of
-starry white flowers, and gorgeous yellow and blue ones, wave together
-with a glowing harmony of colour, as they are swayed by soft breezes,
-whilst a “Hallelujah Chorus” of skylarks sing overhead, making the air
-full of scent and sound. In this setting, the old stones seem all yellow
-and grey in the brilliant sunshine. Picturesque shepherds, wrapped in
-their great dark-blue cloaks, appear upon the horizon; tinkling sheep
-bells are heard, reminding one of the Roman Campagna; evening falling,
-brings a sense of peace and stillness, chimes from the old Church at
-Amesbury float across the valley. The light comes and goes, and the
-world seems far away.
-
- [Picture: Stonehenge and a Great Trilithon]
-
- * * * * *
-
-To my mind the magic of Stonehenge is never more powerfully felt than
-during the wild, tempestuous autumnal gales, that usually sweep across
-the Plain in October. Great clouds roll above, enfolding the circle in a
-shadowy purple mantle, sometimes tipped with gold. Thoughts rise up
-suddenly, of the many tragedies, feasts, sacrifices, mysterious rites
-that must have been enacted here in far-off bygone days. One wonders if
-beautiful golden-haired Guinevere passed this way, on her flight to
-safety, at the Convent at “Ambresbury” (the Land of Ambrosius), or if sad
-King Arthur tarried there on his lonely homeward journey?
-
-I prefer to picture to myself, Stonehenge, in happy, thoughtless Pagan
-days, Druid priests and priestesses forming grand processions; crossing
-the “rushing Avon” and winding up from the valley to Stonehenge, clothed
-in pure white, and holding gleaming sickles in their hands, chanting
-hymns on their way to perform the sacred rite of cutting the mistletoe.
-Perhaps they sang and chanted through the short summer night, waiting for
-the sun to rise (over the pointed outlying stone) on the day which marks
-the solar half-year (June 21st), and which bathes the altar-stone in
-golden light. Probably this was the signal for sacrifice, the death of
-the victim, and the appeasing of wrathful gods. In mid-winter the stones
-appear like black masses, in the midst of driving snows. The least
-interesting time of year, in this enchanted place, is the bright, clear,
-commonplace summer, when no mysteries abound (except by moonlight). The
-old gods are sleeping, everything is orderly, agriculture and its
-implements surround us, and Romance seems dead for the moment. Farewell.
-
- FLORENCE CAROLINE MATHILDE ANTROBUS.
-
-In approaching’ the momentous and deeply interesting subject of
-Stonehenge, I considered it best and wisest to collect the thoughts and
-opinions of several learned authors on this subject, and submit them to
-the reader, who thus will have an opportunity of comparing for himself
-the truth and merits of the different theories presented to him for
-judgment.
-
-Various explanations of the name “Stonehenge” have been forthcoming; but
-the true etymological significance seems to be: A.S. “Stàn,” used as an
-adjective, and “henge,” from A.S. “hòn” _i.e._, stone hanging-places,
-from the groups of stones resembling a gallows. This was long ago
-suggested by Wace, the Anglo-Norman poet, who writes:—
-
- “Stanhengues ont nom en Englois
- Pierres pendues en François.”
-
-As to the date of Stonehenge, opinions vary. It is supposed Hecatæus
-(500 B.C.) mentioned it as the “Round Temple” (Translation of Extract
-from Diodorus Siculus, about B.C. 8).
-
-Hecatæus, the Milesian, and others, have handed down to us the following
-story:—“Over against Gaul, in the great ocean stream, is an island not
-less in extent than Sicily, stretching towards the north. The
-inhabitants are called Hyperboreans, because their abode is more remote
-from us than that wind we call Boreas. It is said that the soil is very
-rich and fruitful, and the climate so favourable that there are two
-harvests in every year. Their fables say that Latona was born in this
-island, and on that account they worship Apollo (Apollo would signify the
-sun to the Latins) before all other divinities, and celebrate his praise
-in daily hymns, conferring the highest honours upon their bards, as being
-his priests. There is in this island a magnificent temple to this god,
-circular in form, and adorned with many splendid offerings. And there is
-also a city sacred to Apollo, inhabited principally by harpers, who in
-his temple sing sacred verses to the god, accompanied by the harp, in
-honour of his deeds.
-
-“The language of the Hyperboreans is peculiar, and they are singularly
-well affected towards the Greeks, and have been so from the most remote
-times, especially to those of Athens and Delos. It is even said that
-some Greeks have travelled thither, and presented offerings at their
-temple inscribed with Grecian characters. They also say that Abaris in
-former times went thence to Greece, to renew their ancient friendship
-with the Delians. It is related, moreover, that in this island the moon
-appears but a short way from the earth, and to have little hills upon it.
-Once in nineteen years (and this period is what we call the Great Year)
-they say that their god visits the island; and from the Vernal Equinox to
-the rising of the Pleiades, all the night through, expresses his
-satisfaction at his own exploits by dances and by playing on the harp.
-
-“Both the City and the Temple are presided over by the Boreadœ, the
-descendants of Boreas, and they hand down the power in regular succession
-in their family.”
-
-The first author who is considered to make unmistakable mention of
-Stonehenge is Henry of Huntingdon (twelfth century). In his Chronicle he
-speaks of it as the second wonder of England, and calls it Stanenges.
-Geoffrey of Monmouth (1138) wrote of it about the same time; he believed
-it to have been erected by Aurelius Ambrosius, King of Britain, and
-called it Hengist’s Stones. Giraldus Cambrensis, a contemporary of
-Geoffrey, also makes mention of it.
-
-Among more modern authors, may be quoted Sir Philip Sidney’s lines:—
-
- “Near Wilton sweet, huge heaps of stones are found,
- But so confused that neither any eye
- Can count them first, nor reason try
- What force them brought to so unlikely ground.”
-
-Then Wharton’s sonnet:—
-
- “Thou noblest monument of Albion’s isle!
- Whether by Merlin’s aid from Scythia’s shore
- To Amber’s fatal plain Pendragon bore,
- Huge frame of giant hands, the mighty pile,
- To entomb his Britain’s slain by Hengist’s guile;
- Or Druid priests, sprinkled with human gore,
- Taught ’mid thy massy maze their mystic lore;
- Or Danish chiefs, enriched with savage spoil,
- To victory’s idle vast, an unhewn shrine,
- Reared the rude heap; or in thy hallowed round
- Repose the kings of Brutus’ genuine line;
- Or here those kings in solemn state were crowned
- Studious to trace thy wondrous origin,
- We muse on many an ancient tale renowned.”
-
-To descend to prose. Langtoft, in his Chronicle, says:—“A wander wit of
-Wiltshire, rambling to Rome, to gaze at antiquities, and there screwing
-himself into the company of antiquarians, they entreated him to
-illustrate unto them that famous monument in his country called Stonage.
-His answer was that he had never seen it. Whereupon they kicked him out
-of doors, and bade him go home and see Stonage.”
-
-The immortal Pepys says the stones are “as prodigious as any tales I have
-ever heard of them, and worth going this journey to see.”
-
-The archæologist, Mr. Edmund Story Maskelyne, fixes the date of
-Stonehenge at 900 or 1000 B.C. I quote what he says from a lecture, read
-1897, “On the Age and Purpose of Stonehenge”:—
-
- “It is of consequence that we should recognize that Stonehenge was
- built about nine or ten hundred years B.C., and not 700 A.D., as many
- writers would have us believe. For instance, Dr. W. M. Flinders
- Petrie, in his book, ‘Stonehenge, 1880,’ states his opinion that it
- was erected A.D. 700±200, that is, between A.D. 500 and 900. The
- date of Stonehenge will be of great interest if there is found at
- Avebury remains sufficiently perfect to determine astronomically the
- date when that monument was erected. For it cannot be but
- interesting to ascertain when the two cults—that of the sun, pure and
- simple, as exemplified in the original Temple at Stonehenge; and the
- cult of the sun in connexion with the serpent, as exhibited at
- Avebury—respectively prevailed in this country.”
-
-Mr. Story Maskelyne’s reasons for his theory that Stonehenge was built by
-the Phœnicians are as follows:—
-
- “I should like to add some reasons for my belief that Stonehenge was
- built by the Phœnicians. In the first place, I cannot think of any
- other people that could have either designed or executed such a
- monument, which required both science for its conception and skill
- for its erection. The Phœnicians, with their perfect familiarity
- with masts, and cordage, and pulleys, could easily lift the imposts,
- of which the largest—being about 11 ft. long, 4 or 6 wide, and 3 ft.
- thick—would weigh less than ten tons; and the Phœnicians must have
- known how the Egyptians raised masses of stone many times heavier.
-
- “The trilithon {24} standing clear seems to have had some fascination
- for these people. They are found still standing in Tripoli in Libya,
- as described in ‘The Hill of the Graces,’ a record of investigation
- among the Trilithons and Megalithic sites of Tripoli by Mr. Cowper,
- F.S.A., 1897, and specimens exist on the Continent of Europe, in
- Normandy and in Brittany. One may be seen in the Island of Ushant,
- and another in St. Nazaire on the probable route they adopted for the
- passage of tin.
-
- [Picture: Great Circle and Leaning Stone, as it was—now upright]
-
- “Another peculiarity can be seen to this day by any one at Stonehenge
- in the large trilithon impost, namely, that the under surfaces of the
- imposts which rested on the uprights are smoothly cut and slightly
- bevelled, so as to throw the principal weight of the mass of the
- impost on its outside edge, thus excluding rain, &c., and this very
- contrivance was employed by the Egyptians in the pyramids, and it is
- certain that the Phœnicians had free intercourse with Egypt.
- Finally, the Phœnicians had founded Cadiz, their Gadir in the
- eleventh century B.C., more than two centuries before the date which,
- from astronomical considerations, I assign for the building of
- Stonehenge. We know that they sailed along the shores of Spain and
- Gaul and to the Baltic, and though they preferred coasting as a rule,
- the straight cut across from Cherbourg to Poole or Christchurch in
- fine weather would not be a long voyage; and as they certainly did
- trade with Britain, and it must have been hazardous for British
- coracles to sail across the open sea, laden with tin, we may conclude
- that Phœnician ships did cross the Channel. We know also that the
- Phœnicians made, more or less, homes for themselves wherever they
- landed; and it is probable that they did so at Poole or Christchurch,
- also that they would build them a temple where they found it
- convenient to stay.”
-
-Mr. Story Maskelyne considers the Greeks reformed the Temple later on.
-“Within 500 years of the latest of the above-mentioned dates the
-Phœnician or Tyrian Empire had ceased to exist, and her numerous colonies
-had been absorbed by the nationalities surrounding them. About B.C. 400
-the Greeks supplanted the Phœnicians in their trade with Britain, and
-probably for some time continued to use the same mart and sea route the
-latter had used—we may assume from Cherbourg to Poole or Christchurch,
-whence they bore away the tin in their coracles from Cornwall. Now
-commenced a new era for Stonehenge. It must have been a noted Temple,
-and I cannot doubt that Hecatæus did allude to it as cited by Strabo,
-when he wrote, in the sixth century B.C., of the Round Temple to Apollo
-in the land of the Hyperboreans. Now the festivals of the Greeks were
-more connected with the months than with the year, and their calendar
-months were alternate, full and hollow, where the thirty pillars were
-doubtless used by them for the daily sacrifice in the months of thirty
-days and the spaces between them, omitting the entrance, for the hollow
-months, of twenty-nine days. Owing to the precession of the stars,
-Stonehenge no longer answered some of the purposes for which it has been
-founded. The Greeks had adopted with ardour the Metonic Cycle discovered
-by them B.C. 430, and they reformed the old Sun Temple by the addition of
-the inner horseshoe of blue stones which represented that Cycle, for they
-were in number nineteen. As to how, or why, the blue stones came to be
-imported, I imagine they are native to Brittany or Normandy, whence they
-might easily have been brought as ballast in Greek ships, which took back
-tin in their stead from Poole or Christchurch, and from the latter port
-they might easily have been taken in rafts to Amesbury.”
-
- [Picture: The stone and flint implements discovered at Stonehenge during
- the excavations in 1902]
-
- [Picture: Hele Stone]
-
-
-
-
-THE DATE OF STONEHENGE.
-
-
-IN printing this second edition of my little guide-book, I think it will
-be found interesting and necessary to leave all the former evidence and
-opinions that I collected as to the date of Stonehenge. Since the
-excavations in 1901, I think we may consider the age of Stonehenge to be
-between three and four thousand years. Mr. W. Gowland judges from the
-implements or tools found, Sir Norman Lockyer and Dr. Penrose from
-astronomical observations, based on the fact that the avenue (“Viâ
-Sacra”) to Stonehenge from the east of the ancients was in a line with
-the Altar Stone, so that the sun, rising on the day of the solar
-half-year (June 21st) and creeping over the horizon, shed his beams on
-the Altar Stone, thus marking the solar half-year. Of course, the east
-of the ancients is not our east, but the difference between the position
-of the sun _now_ and then to the avenue gives, according to these
-gentlemen’s calculations, a date of 3700 years old to Stonehenge.
-
-
-
-
-THE FINDS AT STONEHENGE, 1901.
-
-
-THE implements found during the excavations made for the underpinning of
-the “Leaning Stone” are thus classified by Mr. W. Gowland:—
-
-(1) Haches roughly chipped, longer and shorter. (2) Axe-hammers. (3)
-Hammer-stones with blunt edge. The above are of flint. (4) Regular
-hammer-stones of compact sarsen. (5) Mauls of the same rock, weighing
-from 37 to 64 lbs. each. There were also found chippings from the
-monoliths, and, near the surface, coins and animal bones.
-
-Only one trace of copper or bronze occurred other than coins and
-superficial finds, a mere strain on a block of sarsen. So we may
-consider Stonehenge to belong to the late Neolithic, or early Bronze
-Period. These objects have been lent by Sir Edmund Antrobus to the
-museum at Devizes for a period of six months.
-
- * * * * *
-
-In the January, 1902, number of _Man_, Mr. W. Gowland’s interesting paper
-will be found, describing the excavations, methods of trimming and
-erecting the stones practised by the ancients.
-
-As to the kinds of stone actually employed in the building of Stonehenge,
-the whole of the outer circle and the four stones lying beyond that
-circle are undoubtedly “Sarsen” (which are the boulder stones left by the
-ice-sheet of the glacial period on the Wiltshire downs). There are, in
-the inner circle, four stones which have been called “horn-stone.” The
-remainder are “diabase,” commonly called “bluestones,” and similar are
-found in Wales, and in parts of Cumberland and Cornwall, the so-called
-Altar Stone being a kind of grey sandstone, not sarsen. The large
-outlying stone, known traditionally as the “Friar’s Heel,” from a legend
-that when the devil was busy erecting Stonehenge he made the observation
-that no one would ever know how it was done. This was overheard by a
-friar lurking near by, and he incautiously replied in the Wiltshire
-dialect, “That’s more than thee can tell,” and fled for his life; the
-devil, catching up an odd stone, flung it after the friar, and hit him on
-the heel. This stone is also named the “Pointer,” because from the
-middle of the Altar Stone the sun is seen at the summer solstice (21st of
-June) to rise immediately above it. The Hele Stone is the true name,
-“Hele” meaning “to hide,” from Heol or Haul of Geol or Jul, all names for
-the sun, which this stone seems to hide. From the Friar’s Heel it is
-about 66 yards to a low circular earthen boundary, enclosing the area
-within which Stonehenge stands. Just within the entrance to this earthen
-ring lies a large prostrate stone called the “Slaughter Stone,” supposed
-by some to have been used for the slaughter of victims about to be
-offered in sacrifice at the altar. The Slaughter Stone (at the end
-nearest to the Friar’s Heel) bears evidence of tool-marks, there being
-six small round cavities made in it by blows from a flint tool. On the
-margin of the earthen ring, one 55 yards on the left, the other 95 yards
-on the right of the entrance, are two small, unhewn stones.
-
- [Picture: Ground plan as presumed to have been originally. A. Small
- Trilithon of Syenite. That it stood here is only conjecture. It now
- lies as marked A below]
-
- [Picture: A. Trilithon fell 1797. B. Upright with capstone fell, Dec.
- 31st, 1900]
-
- [Picture: Great Trilithons (as it was)]
-
-Stonehenge stands about 440 feet above the sea-level. The outer circle
-measures 308 feet in circumference, and is supposed to have been formed
-originally of thirty upright stones, seventeen of which are still
-standing, and the remains of nine others are to be found fallen to the
-ground. These stones formerly stood 14 feet above the surface of the
-ground, but now are of different heights. Their breadth and thickness
-also vary: the former averaging 7 feet, the latter 3½. The stones were
-fixed in the ground at intervals of 3½ feet, connected at the top by a
-continuous line of thirty imposts forming a corona or ring of stone at a
-height of 16 feet above the ground, and were all squared and rough hewn,
-and cleverly joined together. The uprights were cut with knobs or
-tenons, which fitted into mortice holes hewn in the undersides of the
-horizontal stones. About 9 feet within this peristyle was the “inner
-circle,” composed of diabase obelisks; within this, again, was the “great
-ellipse,” formed of five, or, as some think, seven trilithons of stones,
-each group consisting of two blocks placed upright and one crosswise.
-These structures rose progressively in height from N.E. to S.W., and the
-loftiest and largest attained an elevation of 25 feet. Lastly, within
-the trilithons was the “inner ellipse,” consisting of nineteen obelisks
-of diabase. Within the inner ellipse we find the Altar Stone. At the
-present moment, there remains of the outer circle or peristyle sixteen
-uprights and six imposts; of the inner circle, seven only stand upright
-of the great ellipse—there are still two perfect trilithons and two
-single uprights. The Duke of Buckingham, in his researches in 1620, is
-said to have caused the fall of a trilithon. He was at Wilton in the
-reign of James I., and he “did cause the middle of Stonehenge to be
-digged, and under this digging was the cause of the falling down or
-recumbency of the great stone there, twenty-one foote long.” “In the
-process of digging they found a great many horns of stags and oxen,
-charcoal batter-dishes (?), heads of arrows, some pieces of armour eaten
-out with rust, bones rotten, but whether of stagge’s or men they could
-not tell.”
-
-In 1797, on a rapid thaw succeeding a severe frost, another trilithon
-fell; of the inner ellipse, there are six blocks in their places; and in
-the centre remains the so-called Altar Stone.
-
-In Sir R. C. Hoare’s “History of Wiltshire,” he mentions that Inigo Jones
-observed a stone, which is now gone, in the inmost part of the cell,
-appearing not much above the surface of the earth and lying towards the
-east, four feet broad and sixteen long, which was his supposed Altar
-Stone. Also “Philip, Earl of Pembroke (Lord Chamberlayne to King Charles
-I.), did say ‘that an altar stone was found in the middle of the area
-here, and that it was carried away to St. James’s.’”
-
-The entrance to Stonehenge faced the N.E., and the road to it, “Viâ
-Sacra,” or avenue, can be traced by banks of earth.
-
-It is the opinion of competent authorities that many of the stones should
-be underpinned in the manner of the “Leaning Stone,” as any violent
-storms, such as periodically sweep across the Plain, might bring them
-down. The fall of two of the stones from the outer circle (supposed by
-the superstitious to foretell the Queen’s death) on December 31st, 1900,
-the last day of the old century, and 103 years after the last stones
-fell, was caused by a gale from the west.
-
-There are the two opinions as to the right course to pursue regarding
-Stonehenge—some people considering it would be well to leave it to fall
-down, so that eventually it would appear like a jumbled heap of ninepins,
-others (myself among the number) that the necessary steps for its
-Preservation, _not_ Restoration, should be taken.
-
- FLORENCE C. M. ANTROBUS.
-
-_April_, 1902.
-
-
-
-
-PARTICULARS OF THE STONES.
-
- 58 stones of the Sarsen circle: 30 piers, 28 lintels.
- 26 ,, ,, Bluestone circle (2): this includes 1 impost.
- 15 ,, ,, Sarsen trilithons: 10 piers, 5 imposts.
- 19 „ Inner bluestones.
- 1 Sun stone.
- 1 Altar stone.
- 1 Slaughter stone.
- 1 Stones of the Earth Circle.
- 123 Total
-
-.
-
-The question arises whether there were formerly other stones belonging to
-the earth circle. From probing the ground, there is reason to believe
-that a stone on this bank may once have marked the direction of the axis.
-
-
-
-
-SARSEN CIRCLE.
-
-
-17 piers _in situ_, 8 prostrate or fragments, 5 missing.
-
-6 lintels _in situ_, 2 fragments, 20 missing.
-
-
-
-
-BLUESTONE CIRCLE.
-
-
-12 stones or stumps _in situ_, 10 prostrate, 4 missing.
-
-
-
-
-SARSEN TRILITHONS.
-
-
-5 piers _in situ_, 3 prostrate, 5 missing.
-
-From this list of missing blue stones we may safely deduct two; two
-pieces of rock are known to be beneath the turf, and there may be others.
-The most satisfactory derivation of Sarsens or Sassens is from the
-Anglo-Saxon word for a rock or stone—_ses_, plural _sesen_ or _sesons_.
-The Inner Circle of blue stones and Inner Horse-shoe are composed of the
-“Blue Stones,” igneous rocks.
-
-
-
-
-DERIVATION OF AMESBURY.
-
-
-“On Salisbury Plain stand the ruins of the weird Circle of Revolution,
-Cor y Coeth in Welsh, the Circle of Dominion, the holy anointed stones of
-Ambresbiri (_ambree_, anointed; _biri_, Hebrew for holy ones), at once a
-sanctuary and a sundial (3000 years ago the only clock in Britain),
-regulated by the sun and moon for days and years. But the beautiful old
-British names since the sixth century have been blotted out by the
-terrible title _Stonehenge_ or stone gallows—Stanhengen in Anglo-Saxon.
-A permanent gallows of stone was used by the Saxons for the execution of
-criminals, and wishing to aim a death-blow at British power, no surer way
-was found by the invaders than by hanging British leaders upon the
-consecrated stones of their revered temple. The road from the village of
-Amesbury to the Circle is still called Gallow’s Hill.”
-
- _From Mrs. Gordon’s Pamphlet_.
-
-
-
-
-DERIVATION OF DRUID.
-
-
-An Arabic (and Persian) word meaning Holy Men come from the valley of the
-Euphrates. Mrs. Gordon considers Merlin (the Bismarck of his age) as the
-builder of Stonehenge; also that Aurelius Ambrosius, by his own wish, was
-buried within the Circle of Stonehenge.
-
-
-
-
-DERIVATION OF BARROWS.
-
-
-Barrow, a Hebrew word for grave Mounds. Literally, the “thrown-up pit of
-lamentation.”
-
-
-
-
-DERIVATION OF WILTSHIRE.
-
-
-Wiltshire, in the Saxon Chronicles Wiltunseir, in Doomesday Wiltescire,
-derives its name from the town of Wilton, from the Wit-saetas (_saetan_ =
-settlers or inhabitants), the West Saxon tribe who made it their home.
-
-
-
-
-MENTION OF AMESBURY IN MALORY’S “MORTE D’ARTHUR.”
-
-
-“And thus upon a night there came a vision unto Sir Launcelot, and
-charged him, in remission of all his sins, to haste him towards
-Almesbury. ‘And by that time thou come, there thou shalt find Queen
-Guenever dead; and therefore take thy fellows with thee, and also purvey
-thee a horse bier, and bring you the corpse of her, and bury it by her
-lord and husband.’ Then Sir Launcelot took his seven fellows with him,
-and on foot they went from Glastonbury, which is little more than thirty
-miles. And when Sir Launcelot was come to Almesbury, within the nunnery,
-Queen Guenever died but half an hour before.”
-
-Timbs, in his “Abbeys and Castles in England,” says: “At Amesbury, says
-Bishop Tanner, quoting from Geoffrey of Monmouth, there is said to have
-been an ancient British monastery for 300 monks, founded, as some say, by
-the famous Prince Ambrosius who lived at the time of the Saxon invasion,
-and who was therein buried, destroyed by that cruel pagan, Gurmendus, who
-overran all this country in the sixth century.” This alludes to a
-monastery prior to the one founded by Elfrida, with which I begin my
-account of Amesbury Abbey.
-
-
-
-
-THE AVENUE OR VIÂ SACRA
-
-
-is orientated to the midsummer sunrise, and points 50° east of north
-point. It leads uninterruptedly to the circular space formed by the
-earth circle in which Stonehenge stands, the enclosing bank being
-discontinued in this direction. It is noteworthy that the sun stone, as
-well as the slaughter stone, are not placed in the centre of the avenue
-or approach, but lie towards the eastern side of it. The avenue is made
-by two parallel lines confining ditches, the earth having been thrown
-inwards so as to slightly raise the roadway. These ditches, though
-shallow, are distinct. The avenue thus formed descends the gradual
-incline of the Down, until at about one thousand five hundred feet from
-the sun stone the ditches become indistinguishable. Here the descent is
-more rapid and leads to a gentle valley in the Down, where the avenue
-divided into two branches. It is now impossible to trace this point of
-division with any certainty.
-
-
-
-
-THE CURSUS AVENUE.
-
-
-This is now completely obliterated.
-
-
-
-
-THE LONG AVENUE.
-
-
-The branch which turned to the right, forming the eastern slope of the
-valley, went over its crest and continued in a straight line in the
-direction of some high land to the north of Vespasian’s Camp. The plough
-at work year after year has completely effaced all traces of this avenue,
-and we have to rely on Dr. Stukeley’s account written 150 years ago.
-
-
-
-
-THE PARALLEL BANK.
-
-
-At 1200 feet from the sun stone “the approach” is intersected at an angle
-approximating roughly to a right angle by parallel banks about two feet
-in height and forty feet apart; the roadway thus formed continues about
-600 feet to left and right; to the east it is continued by a causeway
-across the valley already spoken of, and it is used by carts passing that
-way, required in the cultivation of fields to the west of the avenue.
-
-
-
-
-THE CURSUS.
-
-
- _Discovered by Dr. Stukeley_, 1723.
-
-This great enclosure lies to the north of Stonehenge, and veers 6° from
-due east and west. Like the avenue it is formed by banks thrown up from
-an outer ditch. It is 9000 feet in length, with a width of 350 feet at
-its centre, but towards its extremities it narrows. To the west, the
-southern boundary is irregular. The northern ditch, on the contrary,
-makes a fairly straight line. Its eastern end is headed by a long mound
-now difficult to trace. Near its western extremity, and within the
-enclosure, are two small tumuli irregularly placed. The greater part of
-this earthwork being on the uncultivated Down is fairly well defined,
-especially to the west; to the east it has been obliterated by the
-plough.
-
-
-
-
-THE LESSER CURSUS.
-
-
-To the north-west of the Great Cursus and over 7000 feet distant from
-Stonehenge, is an earthwork apparently the beginning of a second cursus.
-It is ill defined, and at 1200 feet from its enclosed end the ditches
-cease. It appears to be an abandoned scheme for an enclosure similar to
-the Cursus.
-
-From “Stonehenge,” Mr. Edgar Barclay. At page 66 he says:—“The Cursus is
-irregular in shape, nevertheless there remains a very strong probability
-that it is an adjunct of Stonehenge, and was designed with it, and is not
-an independent earthwork as Sir R. Colt Hoare maintains.”
-
-From Mr. J. F. Hewitt’s “Ruling Races of Pre-historic Times”:—“A
-hippodrome can still be traced about half a mile north of the Temple,
-with which it is connected by an avenue about forty cubits wide. This is
-divided into two branches, about 1700 feet from the Temple, the eastern
-hand going eastward to Radfin, a ford on the Avon, and the western
-curving round to the ancient chariot-course. It was here the seasonal
-games took place, said by Macrobius to have been celebrated by the
-Druids, when sacrifices were offered to the gods. This ancient _campus
-martius_, running east and west, is about 10,000 feet or 6000 Druidical
-cubits long, and 350 feet or 200 Druidical cubits wide, and on the east
-side is a long bank, extending nearly its whole length, which must have
-served as a place for spectators; while on the west side is a curve to
-allow for the turning of the competing chariots. There can be no doubt
-whatever that this racecourse represents the ancient site of the national
-games; instituted by the Sons of the Horse, which are said in Greek
-tradition to have been founded by Akastus, king of Iolcus, after he had
-driven out Jason and Medea the sorceress.”
-
-
-
-
-EARTHWORKS ON SALISBURY PLAIN.
-
-
-Tumuli, or Barrows, are the most simple kind of sepulchral monument; they
-consist of a mound of earth or stones raised over the dead.
-
-Sir Richard Colt Hoare thus classifies them in his “History of
-Wiltshire”:—
-
-1. The Long Barrow. Differing considerably in their construction.
-
-2. The Bowl Barrow. The most ordinary shape.
-
-3. The Bell Barrow. This, from the elegance of its form, seems a
-refinement on the Bowl Barrow. They abound near Stonehenge.
-
-4. Druid Barrow (1st class). I consider these tumuli were appropriated
-to the female tribes. The outward vallum with the ditch within is
-beautifully moulded, and in most instances found to contain small cups,
-small lance heads, amber, jet, and glass beads.
-
-5. Druid Barrow (2nd class). In external form these resemble the
-preceding, but their circumference is not so large. The tumulus within
-rises to a point from the edge of the vallum.
-
-6. Pond Barrow. They differ totally from all others, and resemble an
-excavation made for a pond. I can form no conjecture as to their use.
-
-7. Twin Barrow. They are not very common, and, by being enclosed in a
-circle, seem to denote the interment of relations.
-
-8. Cone Barrow. The only one I have seen is at Everley. The tumulus
-rises immediately from the ditch, and the apex is higher and more
-pointed.
-
-9. Broad Barrow. Resembles the Bowl Barrow, but is higher and flatter
-at the top.
-
-Mr. Edgar Barclay, in “Stonehenge,” says:—“The presence of barrows (near
-Stonehenge) would enable marriages to be celebrated on the spot. A feast
-at the family tomb was an opportunity for a young woman about to marry to
-be formally introduced to the domestic worship of the family she was
-about to enter. That feasts did occur at Stonehenge Barrows we have
-proofs. We find also that Irish Fairs in honour of the Sun God were held
-in proximity to extensive burial-places. The arrangement of the avenues,
-the placing of the cursus, the placing of the sun stone and slaughter
-stone, the break in the lintel circle, &c.: these characteristics point
-out to us the probable procedures at times of festival. The midsummer
-festival solemnized the holy espousals of the Sun God with the land.”
-
-In “The Ruling Races of Pre-historic Times,” Mr. Hewitt says:—“The deer
-worshippers were the mixed race formed from the union of the sons of the
-mother-tree, the mother-bear and wolf, the lordly boar and the prolific
-sow, the mother-cow, the mother-mountain, and father firestone, the
-people who looked on the Sun God of the equinoxes and solstices as the
-god who made their crops to grow and who ripened their barley, the seed
-of life (_zi_), the Zeus of the Greeks, which gave its name to the Deus
-of the Latins and the Theos of the Greeks, the Manx god Ji. This father
-sun god was the god on the grey white horse, the clouds, the white horse
-in Zend mythology of Tishtrya, the star of the summer solstice which
-succeeded the golden horned bull of the bull race, as the adversary and
-conqueror of the black horse, and the black bull or dragon, the cloud
-which will not give up its rain, which was in Northern mythology the
-winter frost giant. It was this white horse—the sun god of the
-limestone, flint, and chalk country—which was the god of Stonehenge, the
-temple whose ruins still remain to set before us, with absolute certainty
-of the correctness of the deduction in its main details, the complete
-ritual of this primæval worship.”
-
-_Note_.—The white sun horse is still worshipped and fed daily at Kobe, in
-Japan.
-
-The worshippers of the sun god who built this temple are proved to have
-belonged to the Bronze age by the number of round barrow tombs within
-twelve miles of it; and Stukeley (A.D. 1723) counted one hundred and
-twenty-eight as visible from a hill close by.
-
-
-
-
-VESPASIAN’S CAMP.
-
-
-A name given by Dr. Stukeley to the (probably) British earthworks,
-locally known as “the Ramparts,” which crown a hill in the demesne of
-Amesbury Abbey. Its ancient lines of defence, enclosing thirty-nine
-acres and boldly scarped towards the west, environ the summit in the form
-of a scalene triangle. This hill is densely wooded, containing two
-beautiful avenues of beech-trees, and as it descends to the Avon, is cut
-into a fanciful shape, supposed to resemble a diamond. I have described
-this in “Amesbury Abbey.”
-
-
-
-
-WEST AMESBURY HOUSE.
-
-
-A pretty old house on the road-side, belonging to Sir Edmund Antrobus,
-built of stone and flint. The interior has been much altered and spoilt.
-Traces of a monastic building exist in the beams supporting the roof, and
-in a church doorway at the top of the staircase. These date from the
-fifteenth century. Aubrey informs us that this house and property, along
-with Stonehenge, once formed the dowry of the wife of Lord Ferrers of
-Chartley. The village of West Amesbury possesses some picturesque
-thatched cottages, and on an outside wall of one is a rude sketch of
-fighting cocks and their backers.
-
-
-
-
-WILSFORD HOUSE.
-
-
-A house on the banks of the Avon, built by the late Mr. Loder, of
-Salisbury, two miles from Amesbury. It is of the modern “villa”
-description. In 1898 Mr. Young purchased it from Sir E. Loder, and
-re-sold it to Mr. Edward Tennant in 1900. None of the places described
-along the Avon Valley are open to the public, but they can be seen from
-the high road.
-
- [Picture: Lake House]
-
-
-
-
-LAKE HOUSE,
-
-
-situated on the banks of the Avon, is in the parish of Wilsford, and
-about three miles south of Amesbury. The exact date of its foundation is
-uncertain. Its main features are Elizabethan, but an old letter in the
-possession of the family clearly suggests an earlier date. “As to ye
-date of ye house,” says the correspondent, “I do not remember anything in
-that beautifully written deed to which you refer that would bear on it.
-Great weight would belong to any opinion expressed by ye late J. H.
-Parker, and you told me that you thought it might be as early as Edward
-VI. or earlier, and probably Parker judged only by what he saw, and ye
-architectural features that remain have in them nothing distinctive in
-comparison with those what have vanished.” Lake House is one of the most
-beautiful in this neighbourhood, and is built of the usual stone and
-flint; it possesses yew hedges and delightful old-fashioned gardens
-sloping to the river. It was purchased in 1591 by George Duke, and it
-remained in the Duke family till 1897, when (just in time to save the old
-house from utter ruin) it was bought by Mr. J. N. Lovibond, and most
-beautifully restored by the architect, Mr. Detmar Blow, according to the
-views of the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings. There are
-barrows in the park at Lake, and many curious objects, such as amber
-necklaces, &c., were discovered in them about fifty years ago during
-excavations made by the late Mr. Duke. Some of the things then found are
-in the British Museum. A cottage industry is now carried on in the
-village of Lake: a sort of rough tweed in pretty colours being made in
-hand looms by the women. This tweed is called “Stonehenge” cloth, and is
-not expensive.
-
-
-
-
-GREAT DURNFORD CHURCH.
-
-
-Leaving Amesbury, and following the eastern banks of the Avon, we come to
-Great Durnford. Its name is derived from the British word “dur,”
-signifying water. The church is most picturesque, and is built of stone
-and flint, with very rich Norman north and south doorways and chancel
-arch. The font is Norman, with an interesting arcade. The pulpit is of
-oak and dated 1619, and has a very old velvet cover with 1657 worked on
-it. Built into the wall of the church is a stone coffin containing a
-skeleton, supposed to be that of the founder. Traces of two doors
-leading to the rood loft can still be seen, and in one window are the
-remains of some very old glass. Inside the south door are several
-curious crosses, supposed to be dedication crosses. In the chancel is a
-leper’s window. The altar rails are of oak, and date back to the
-sixteenth century. The pattern on the walls is the same as that found
-some years ago under the plaster and whitewash. There is a curious brass
-to the memory of Edward Young, his wife, and fourteen children, dated
-1670. In the chancel, chained to an ancient desk, is a copy of Jewel’s
-“Apologie of the Church of England,” ordered by Convocation after the
-Reformation, 1571.
-
-
-
-
-GREAT DURNFORD HOUSE
-
-
-was once a seat of the Hungerfords. Evelyn notes in his Diary, July,
-1654:—“We dined at a ferme of my Uncle Hungerford’s called Darneforde
-magna, situate in a valley under the plaine, most sweetly watered,
-abounding in troutes, catched by speares in the night when they come
-attracted by a light set in ye sterne of a boate.”
-
-It is in the French château style on a small scale, and has lovely
-old-fashioned gardens, quite unspoiled, with some rare trees growing in
-them. At the end of the last garden flows the Avon, and picturesque
-Durnford Church stands close by. In 1869 Mr. Pinckney bought the house
-and some of the estate from the Earl of Malmesbury.
-
-
-
-
-OGBURY CAMP.
-
-
-On the eastern side of the Avon is a very ancient earthen work called
-Ogbury Camp. Sir Richard Colt Hoare thus describes it:—“On this hill we
-recognize the very early and simple handiwork of the Britons, unaltered
-by their successors and conquerors, the Romans and Saxons. Here we see a
-large tract of sixty-two acres enclosed within a single rampart, and
-without any fosse to strengthen it against the attacks of an enemy, and
-we perceive within the area the evident marks of enclosures, and only one
-entrance to the east. On the northern side the ramparts followed the
-windings of the hill, and are interrupted by the plantations of Lord
-Malmesbury’s demesne. The area contains sixty-two acres and a quarter.
-The circuit of the outer ditch is one mile, one furlong and fifty-five
-yards, and the depth of the vallum is thirty-three feet. On the
-south-east and west sides the ramparts are very much mutilated. I cannot
-consider Ogbury as a camp or work of defence against an invading enemy,
-but rather as an asylum or place of refuge, whither the Britons, in times
-of danger, retired with their families and herds of cattle. On digging
-within this area we could not find any marks of ancient residence, but on
-some high ground adjoining the extraordinary verdure of the turf induced
-us to dig into the soil, where we immediately found numerous bones of
-animals with fragments of the rudest British pottery.”
-
- [Picture: Heale House]
-
-
-
-
-HEALE HOUSE, MIDDLE WOODFORD.
-
-
-_The Residence of the Honourable Louis Greville_; _bought by him from Sir
- E. Loder_, 1894.
-
-This house, beautifully built of small red bricks, has stone-coped
-windows in the Dutch style of architecture introduced into this country
-by William III., and is quite unlike the usual stone and flint
-“chequered” houses of the neighbourhood. You enter the grounds through
-old wrought-iron gates and down an avenue of elm-trees. The river Avon
-flows through the garden. This property formerly belonged to the
-Errington and Hyde families. Inside the house little remains of the old
-decorations but some carved woodwork. A cupboard in a bedroom is shown
-as the hiding-place of Charles II. after the battle of Worcester. He is
-said to have visited Stonehenge from Heale, and there met friends who
-were to conduct him to the coast of Sussex prior to his escape from
-England. He is supposed to have proved to his own satisfaction the
-fallacy of the notion of the impossibility of counting the stones
-composing Stonehenge.
-
-“In 1721 Robert Hyde bequeathed Heale to his sister, Mrs. Levinz, widow
-of the Bishop of Sodor and Man, and she, by will, devised the estates to
-her son-in-law, Michael Frampton of Oxford, and he, in his turn, left
-them to his nephews, Thomas Bull, rector of Porton, and Edward and Simon
-Polhill and their heirs in succession, in default thereof to William
-Bowles; in seventeen years after the death of the testator, Canon Bowles
-was in full possession of the property.” Several members of the Bowles
-family lie buried in Salisbury Cathedral. Heale Hill is remarkable for a
-circle on the summit and traces of a British village on the south slope.
-
- [Picture: Little Durnford]
-
-
-
-
-LITTLE DURNFORD HOUSE.
-
-
-Built of stone and flint, successively the property of the families of
-Pregers, Wodhull, and Tropnell, afterwards Yonge or Young. In 1795 it
-was sold to Edward Hinxman, whose descendants sold it in 1897 to Mr.
-Devenish (the present owner). The Avon, flowing through the grounds, has
-been artificially widened in one place, forming a miniature lake in front
-of the house.
-
-
-
-
-ENVOI.
-
-
-With much regret I find myself at the end of my little book, which, I
-hope, will help to describe a beautiful and interesting country. It has
-been compiled from various learned sources, and only a small portion of
-it can claim to be original. I shall consider myself fortunate if the
-traveller finds _any_ pleasure in reading what has given me great
-pleasure to write.
-
- FLORENCE CAROLINE MATHILDE ANTROBUS.
-
-_June_, 1900.
-
-
-
-
-APPENDIX.
-THE RECENT WORK AT STONEHENGE. {43}
-
-
-AT a meeting held last March at Stonehenge, and attended by
-representatives of the Society of Antiquaries, of the Society for the
-Protection of Ancient Monuments, and the Wiltshire Archæological Society,
-various plans and measures were discussed and suggested for the better
-preservation of Stonehenge. The whole state of the surrounding
-neighbourhood being changed from its former quietude by the introduction
-of new elements, such as the military camps at Bulford, &c., the making
-of the new branch line of the South-Western Railway (from Grateley to
-Amesbury), it became necessary to meet the altered circumstances by the
-exercise of greater precautions for the care of the beautiful old Sun
-Temple standing in the midst of the grass-clothed downs—a thing of wonder
-and mystery to behold. The advice given to Sir Edmund Antrobus by the
-representatives of these societies was as follows, published in the
-_Times_ of April 3:—
-
- _Resolutions_.
-
-(1) That this Committee approves of the suggested protection of
-Stonehenge by a wire fence not less than 4 ft. high, following on two
-sides the existing roads and crossing on the west from the 331-foot level
-on the north road to the 332-foot level on the south road shown on the
-O.S. map (1-2, 500), Wilts sheet liv. 14.
-
-(2) That the Committee recommends, without prejudice to any legal
-question, that the local authorities be requested to agree to divert the
-existing track-way or ridge-way from Netheravon now passing through the
-earth circle so as to pass from the 302-foot levels in the O.S. map
-immediately west of Stonehenge.
-
-(3) That stones 6 and 7 with their lintel, and stone 56 (according to
-the numbering on Mr. Petrie’s plan) be first examined, with a view of
-maintaining them in a position of safety.
-
-(4) That, in the opinion of this Committee, stone 22 should be replaced,
-stone 21 be made safe, and the lintel of 21 and 22 be replaced in the
-most safe and conservative manner. The Committee also recommends the
-re-erection of stones 57 and 58, and their lintel 158.
-
-(5) That the instructions to custodians already in force be approved
-with a few suggested alterations.
-
-(6) That this Committee feels that it is impossible to overstate the
-value of the assistance which the County Council of Amesbury can give to
-the efforts made to preserve this unique monument.
-
-(7) That these resolutions be sent to Sir Edmund Antrobus with the
-earnest thanks of the Committee, for the part he is proposing to take in
-the preservation of Stonehenge, also that it be left to him to
-communicate with the Press.
-
- * * * * *
-
-The fence was erected by Whitsuntide, and is 1700 yards in circumference,
-and composed of lightest barbed wire of a neutral tint, and absolutely
-invisible at a distance, so that the traveller gets the whole effect of
-Stonehenge in its full grandeur instead of, as in former days, the view
-of the stones mingled with two or three flys, a cart, an old waggonette,
-and photographer’s van, &c., to say nothing of picnic luncheons, spread
-out within the sacred circle. This fence encloses as large an area as
-possible, being well outside the vallum, except on the west side, where a
-right of way interferes with the true circle. The next work
-undertaken—the most difficult and important of the whole—was the raising
-of the “leaning stone”—the largest monolith in England except Cleopatra’s
-needle—to an upright position. This stone formed one of the uprights of
-the trilithon, the fall of which was said to have been caused by the
-digging and researches of the Duke of Buckingham in 1620. The horizontal
-and the other upright (the latter broken in two pieces) now lie prostrate
-across the altar stone.
-
- [Picture: The work at Stonehenge. Raising the Leaning Stone]
-
-The great stone leaned considerably towards the N.E. and appeared to rest
-upon (actually touching at one point) a beautiful little pillar stone of
-syenite, the danger being that in some storm, especially after a heavy
-fall of snow and sudden thaw, the great stone would break in three pieces
-(having three veins) in falling, and also crush the smaller stone beneath
-it.
-
-That a forward movement was continually taking place is shown by
-observations taken by Mr. Flinders Petrie some years ago. It then leaned
-at an angle of 66, which has been increased to one of 60.5 degrees
-lately. The work of the raising of the stone was begun on August 18th
-and finished September 25th, and was under the direct supervision of Mr.
-Gowland, Mr. Detmar Blow, architect, and his assistant Mr. Stallybrass,
-and Mr. Carruthers, engineer. The first thing done was to make a fitting
-to the stone of a strong timber cradle, so as to protect it from injury
-by the immense iron chains and ropes placed round it, these being
-attached to winches worked by men, so that the stone was actually “wound
-up,” so to speak, into an upright position. Hydraulic jacks were also
-used. The whole thing was most carefully and slowly done, and devotedly
-watched over by the workers. A rectangular excavation was made in front
-of the stone, a square excavation at the back. A frame of wood with
-numbers at equal distances apart was placed over the ground, which was
-excavated in sections, and the earth was most carefully sifted in layers
-through four grades of sieves in such a manner that the position of every
-object found could be recorded. The excavations round the base of the
-stone are now filled with concrete, and the large struts which uphold it
-will remain in their positions for six months, until the concrete be
-thoroughly set.
-
-The objects found were one Roman coin and one George III. penny at a
-shallow depth, and many chippings of both the blue and sarsen stones.
-Numerous flint axe-heads and large stone hammers were also found at a
-depth of from two feet to four feet six inches underground; all tending
-to prove the great antiquity of Stonehenge—at least Neolithic. But all
-this will be discussed scientifically later on.
-
- FLORENCE C. M. ANTROBUS.
-
- * * * * *
-
- 1904. A. No. 335.
-
-
-
-In the High Court of Justice.
-CHANCERY DIVISION.
-MR. JUSTICE FARWELL.
-
-
- _Writ issued the_ 1_st day of March_ 1904.
-
-BETWEEN HIS MAJESTY’S ATTORNEY-GENERAL at and by the relation of FRANK
-TUCKER, THOMAS MERCHANT, THE RIGHT HONOURABLE GEORGE JOHN SHAW LEFEVRE,
-SIR JOHN TOMLINSON BRUNNER, Bart., and WILLIAM MATTHEW FLINDERS PETRIE
-and the said FRANK TUCKER, THOMAS MERCHANT, THE RIGHT HONOURABLE GEORGE
-JOHN SHAW LEFEVRE, SIR JOHN TOMLINSON BRUNNER, Bart., and WILLIAM MATTHEW
-FLINDERS PETRIE . . . _Plaintiffs_
-
-AND
-
-SIR EDMUND ANTROBUS, Bart. . . . _Defendant_.
-
-
-STATEMENT OF CLAIM.
-
-
-Delivered the 17th day of March 1904 by HORNE & BIRKETT of 4 Lincoln’s
-Inn Fields in the County of London Solicitors for the Plaintiffs.
-
-1. On Stonehenge Down in the Parish of Amesbury in the County of Wilts
-there are a group of stones and surrounding earthworks which are together
-known as Stonehenge. Stonehenge which is of very great antiquity
-originally formed an ancient building and place of assembly for public
-worship the burial of the dead deliberation on public affairs or other
-public purposes and since it has ceased to be so used has remained a
-national monument and place of resort of great public interest.
-
-2. Until the acts of the Defendant hereinafter complained of there was
-and there now ought to be free access for the public to Stonehenge by
-means of roads running up to and through the same the sites of which
-roads are shown on the plan hereunto annexed and are thereon coloured
-green.
-
-3. The said roads were at the time of the said acts and are public
-highways for all His Majesty’s liege subjects to go and return on foot
-and with horses and carriages at all times of the year at their free will
-and pleasure.
-
-4. Stonehenge is subject to a trust created by a grant or declaration of
-trust which if in writing has been lost or by a Statute which has been
-lost for the free user by the public of Stonehenge as a place of resort
-and for the free access of the public thereto by means of the said roads
-and the site of Stonehenge has since the creation of such trust been held
-by the owners thereof for the time being subject to the said trust.
-
-5. The Defendant has lately erected and maintains and threatens and
-intends to maintain upon Stonehenge Down aforesaid fences along the lines
-shown upon the said plan and thereon coloured red. The said fences
-obstruct the said roads or some of them at the points marked respectively
-A. B. C. D. and E. on the said plan and are obnoxious to and interfere
-with the rights and privileges of His Majesty’s liege subjects referred
-to in paragraphs 3 and 4 hereof.
-
-6. The Defendant has been requested to remove the said fences but he has
-refused and still refuses to do so and threatens and intends to maintain
-the same and the obstructions hereinbefore complained of.
-
-The Plaintiffs therefore claim—
-
-1. An order that the Defendant remove the said fences where they
-respectively obstruct the said roads or any of them.
-
-2. An injunction to restrain the Defendant his servants workmen and
-agents from erecting upon the said lands or any part thereof any fence or
-other erection so as to obstruct and from in any way obstructing the said
-roads or any of them.
-
-3. Costs.
-
- C. GURDON.
-
-R. B. FINLAY.
-
- * * * * *
-
- 1904. A. No. 335.
-
-
-
-In the High Court of Justice.
-CHANCERY DIVISION,
-MR. JUSTICE FARWELL.
-
-
-BETWEEN HIS MAJESTY’S ATTORNEY-GENERAL at and by the relation of FRANK
-TUCKER, THOMAS MERCHANT, THE RIGHT HONOURABLE GEORGE JOHN SHAW LEFEVRE,
-SIR JOHN TOMLINSON BRUNNER, Bart., and WILLIAM MATTHEW FLINDERS PETRIE
-and the said FRANK TUCKER, THOMAS MERCHANT, THE RIGHT HONOURABLE GEORGE
-JOHN SHAW LEFEVRE, SIR JOHN TOMLINSON BRUNNER, Bart., and WILLIAM MATTHEW
-FLINDERS PETRIE . . . _Plaintiffs_
-
-AND
-
-SIR EDMUND ANTROBUS, Bart. . . . _Defendant_.
-
-
-DEFENCE.
-
-
-1. As to paragraph 1 of the Statement of Claim it is not admitted that
-Stonehenge was made or ever used for such purposes as in the said
-paragraph mentioned or any of them or for any public purpose. Stonehenge
-is and has been from time immemorial and in fact at all times private
-property and not national or public property and resort thereto by the
-public has always been by permission of the owner of the land and not as
-of right.
-
-2. As to paragraph 2 the principal part of Stonehenge lies in an angle
-between and near to two public roads leading from Amesbury to Shrewton
-and to Winterbourne Stoke respectively. A public way or track leading
-from Netheravon to Lake crosses these two roads and also crosses part of
-Stonehenge but except the right to use this way or track (which is
-outside the fence erected by the Defendant and has not been in any way
-obstructed by him) there never has been any access for the public to
-Stonehenge otherwise than by permission of the owner of the land on which
-it is situate. The alleged road running up to and through Stonehenge the
-sites of which are purported to be shown on the plan annexed to the
-Statement of Claim and are thereon coloured green (except the way or
-track from Netheravon to Lake aforesaid) do not exist either in law or in
-fact and never have existed.
-
-3. Paragraph 3 of the Statement of Claim is denied except as to the way
-or track from Netheravon to Lake aforesaid.
-
-4. Paragraph 4 is altogether denied. Stonehenge is not and never was
-subject to any trust for user or access by the public or to any public
-trust.
-
-5. As to paragraphs 5 and 6 the Defendant has for the better
-preservation of Stonehenge erected and maintains a fence round the land
-lying within the triangle formed by the said two public roads and the way
-or track from Netheravon to Lake not obstructing or interfering with any
-public right of way. Save as aforesaid paragraphs 5 and 6 of the
-Statement of Claim are denied.
-
- F. VAUGHAN HAWKINS.
-
-Delivered the 27th day of April 1904 by FARRER & Co. of 66 Lincoln’s Inn
-Fields in the County of Middlesex Solicitors for the Defendant.
-
- * * * * *
-
-This case commenced in the High Court of Justice, Chancery Division, on
-Tuesday, March 28th, and continued on the 29th and 30th. Again on the
-4th, 5th, 6th, and 11th and 12th of April. Mr. Justice Farwell delivered
-his considered judgment on the 19th, concluding as follows:—
-
-“I hold, therefore, that the access to the circle was incident only to
-the permission to visit and inspect the stones, and was, therefore,
-permissive only, and, further that the tracks to the circle are not
-thoroughfares, but lead only to the circle, where the public have no
-right without permission, and, therefore, are not public ways. The
-action accordingly fails, and ought never to have been brought. It is
-plain that the vicinity of the camp and the consequent increase of
-visitors compelled the defendant to protect the stones if they were to be
-preserved; and he has done nothing more than is necessary for such
-protection. I desire to give the relators credit for wishing only to
-preserve this unique relic of a former age for the benefit of the public,
-but I fail to appreciate their method of attaining this. The first claim
-to dispossess the defendant of his property is simply extravagant, so
-much so that, although not technically abandoned, no serious argument was
-addressed to me in support of it. The rest of the claim—for rights of
-way over the network of tracks shown on the plaintiffs’ plan—if
-successful would defeat the relators’ object. If these ways were left
-unfenced and heavy traffic passed through the circle, there would be
-great risk of injury, and even without such traffic there is great risk
-from the increased numbers of passers-by. As Sir Norman Lockyer (whose
-interesting application of the Orientation theory to Stonehenge has
-recently appeared) says in one of his articles:—‘The real destructive
-agent has been man himself—savages could not have played more havoc with
-the monument than the English who have visited it at different times for
-different purposes.’ I feel no confidence that the majority of tourists
-have improved, nay, rather,—‘Aetas parentum, pejor avis, tulit Nos
-nequiores.’ It is only fair to the defendant to say that he is not
-acting capriciously but on expert advice for the preservation of the
-stones. If, on the other hand, the roads are all fenced off, the general
-appearance would be ruined, and no human being would be in any way the
-better. It is not immaterial to remark that this is not the action of
-the District or the County Council to preserve rights of way, but is
-brought on the relation of strangers on the score of the public interest
-in Stonehenge. The action is dismissed with costs.”
-
-Mr. Warmington:—“My Lord, there is only one matter with regard to costs I
-think, and that is the question of the Commission. {52} My Lord, those
-were reserved, and they will be costs in the action.”
-
-Mr. Justice Farwell:—“Yes. I may say this—it sometimes saves trouble,
-and it is not unusual, I have done it before, and I think I may say it
-now—that this is a case in which the taxing master should allow three
-counsel.”
-
-Mr. Warmington:—“If your Lordship pleases. I was instructed to apply;
-but according to the practice it is done after taxation.”
-
-Mr. Justice Farwell:—“I know it is. But I have done it before. You see
-the matter is now fresh in my recollection, and a summons to vary might
-come before other Judges.”
-
-Mr. Warmington:—“If your Lordship pleases.”
-
-
-
-
-HOTELS AT SALISBURY.
-
-
-THE WHITE HART (_near the Cathedral_).
-
-
-Carriages and horses for Stonehenge, Wilton, and the New Forest may be
-had.
-
-PRICES FOR STONEHENGE, &C.—The complete drive _viâ_ Amesbury to
-Stonehenge and back by Lake House and the Valley.
-
- _£_ _s._ _d._
-One horse carriage, for 2 persons 0 13 0
-,, ,, ,, ,, 3 ,, 0 18 0
-Two ,, ,, 2 ,, 1 1 0
-„ „ „ „ 3 „ 1 5 0
-„ „ „ „ 4 „ 1 10 0
-
-These prices include the driver and waiting, baiting, &c.
-
-TARIFF OF PRICES: Per day.
- _s._ _d._
-Sitting-rooms from 5 0
-Bedrooms from 2 6
- Per head.
-Plain breakfast 2 0
-Breakfast with chop or steak 2 6
-,, fish, ham and eggs 3 0
-LUNCHEONS:
-Bread and cheese 0 9
-Sandwich 1 0
-Light soups 1 0
-Cold meat 2 6
-DINNERS:
-Soup and chop, vegetables, and cheese 3 6
-With either soup or fish and entrée 4 0
-Ditto with sweets 4 6
-TEAS:
-Plain 1 6
-With eggs 2 0
-Single cup of tea 0 6
- Servants’ board, 5_s._ per day.
-
-Gentlemen’s coffee-room, ladies’ drawing-room, smoking and billiard-room.
-
-Visitors are requested, if possible, to write to the Manager for
-accommodation.
-
-Table d’Hôte, Breakfasts, 3_s._; Luncheons, 2_s._ 6_d._; Dinners, 5_s._
-These meals run for two hours, and are served at separate tables.
-
-
-
-CATHEDRAL HOTEL.
-
- Per day.
-Bedrooms from 2 6
-Sitting-rooms 3 6
-BREAKFASTS OR TEAS: Per head.
-Plain 1 3
-With eggs 1 6
-With meat or fish 2 6
-DINNERS: From 3_s._
- per head.
-Cold baths 0 6
-Hot 1 0
- Servants’ board, 5_s._ per day.
-
-Carriages with experienced drivers for Stonehenge and other places of
-interest.
-
-
-
-RED LION HOTEL, SALISBURY.
-(_Headquarters of the Cyclists’ Touring Club_.)
-
-APARTMENTS: s. d.
-Bedrooms per day 2 6
-Double bedroom 4 0
-Baths in bathroom 1 0
-Baths in bedroom 0 6
-BREAKFAST: Per head.
-Plain 1 3
-With eggs 1 9
-With fish, steak, ham and eggs 2 6
-LUNCHEONS:
-Soup 1 0
-Sandwiches 0 6
-Cold joint, cheese and salad 2 0
-Ditto, sweets 2 6
-Chop and vegetables 2 0
-DINNERS:
-Joint and vegetable 2 6
-Ditto, with sweets 3 0
-Ditto, soup or fish, joint, and sweets 3 6
-TEAS:
-Cup of tea or coffee 0 6
-Teas with eggs, &c. same as breakfast.
- Servants’ board per day, 5s. Bedroom, 1_s._ 6_d._
-
-Excellent Chemists: Messrs. Read & Orchard, Market Place, Salisbury.
-
-Sly, Watch-maker, Market Place.
-
-Good Booksellers: Brown, Canal, & Simmonds, High Street.
-
-Messrs. Pinckney, Bankers, Market Place.
-
-
-
-AMESBURY.
-
-“Queensberry House”—Boarding House, Tea and Luncheon F. Tucker.
-Room
-“Ivy Dene”—Private Hotel A. Fleming.
-“The Phœnix”—Temperance House E. Cockle.
-Drapery and Millinery F. Tucker.
-Drapery and Fancy Bazaar B. Hale.
-
-THE GEORGE INN.
-
-
-Good flys, one and two horses, can be procured here, also bedrooms and
-sitting-rooms, luncheons, and dinners, and teas.
-
- * * * * *
-
- * * * * *
-
- PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LTD., LONDON AND BECCLES.
-
-
-
-
-FOOTNOTES.
-
-
-{10} Aurelius Ambrosius succeeded to the kingdom of Britain on the death
-of Vortigern in the year 465; he was of Roman extraction, though educated
-in Britain.
-
-{18} The Avon is the beloved haunt of thousands of wild duck, many
-herons, kingfishers, &c.
-
-{24} Trilithon, a monument (or part of a monument) consisting of three
-large stones.
-
-{43} “Nature,” vol. 64, p. 602.
-
-{52} This refers to the Committee of the County Council appointed to
-hear the complaint against the enclosure of Stonehenge, and it met early
-in 1902.
-
-
-
-
-***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A SENTIMENTAL & PRACTICAL GUIDE TO
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