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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cd31c14 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #64164 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/64164) diff --git a/old/64164-0.txt b/old/64164-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 93ac194..0000000 --- a/old/64164-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10041 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Excursions in North Wales, by John Hicklin - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: Excursions in North Wales - A Complete Guide to the Tourist through that Romantic Country - - -Author: John Hicklin - - - -Release Date: December 29, 2020 [eBook #64164] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXCURSIONS IN NORTH WALES*** - - -Transcribed from the 1847 Whittaker and Co. edition by David Price. - - [Picture: Conway Bridge & Castle] - - - - - - EXCURSIONS - IN - NORTH WALES: - - - A COMPLETE - GUIDE TO THE TOURIST - THROUGH - THAT ROMANTIC COUNTRY; - - CONTAINING DESCRIPTIONS - OF ITS - PICTURESQUE BEAUTIES, HISTORICAL ANTIQUITIES - AND MODERN WONDERS. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - EDITED BY JOHN HICKLIN, - OF THE CHESTER COURANT. - - * * * * * - - LONDON: - WHITTAKER AND CO.; HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO.; - LONGMAN AND CO.; AND SIMPKIN AND CO. - R. GROOMBRIDGE & SONS. - W. CURRY AND CO., DUBLIN. - GEORGE PRICHARD (LATE SEACOME & PRICHARD), CHESTER. - - * * * * * - - 1847. - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - -The ancient City of Chester is unquestionably the most attractive and -convenient starting-place, from which should commence the journey of the -tourist, who is desirous of exploring the beautiful and romantic country -of North Wales, with its lovely valleys, its majestic mountains, its -placid lakes, its rushing torrents, its rural retreats, and its -picturesque castles. Before leaving Chester, however, it will amply -repay the intelligent traveller to devote some time to the examination of -the many objects of interest, with which the “old city” abounds. A -ramble round the Walls, embracing a circuit of about two miles, will not -only disclose to the stranger a succession of views, illustrative of the -quaint architecture and the singular formation of the city, but will -reveal a series of landscapes of the most varied and charming -description; while the ancient fortifications themselves, with their four -gates and rugged towers, serve to exemplify the features of that troubled -age, when they were erected for the protection of our ancestors against -hostile invasions. Another striking peculiarity of Chester is the -construction of the covered promenades, or Rows, in which the principal -mercantile establishments are situated: unique and very curious are these -old arcades, which are as interesting to the antiquarian, as they are -convenient for a quiet lounge to ladies and others engaged in “shopping.” -The singular old houses, too, with their elaborately carved gables, of -which Watergate-street, Bridge-street, and Northgate-street, furnish some -remarkable specimens, will naturally attract attention. Among public -edifices, the venerable Cathedral, though not possessing much claim to -external elegance, is replete with interest, from the style of its -architecture, and the many historical associations which a visit within -its sacred precincts awakens. The cloisters and the chapter-house are -interesting memorials of olden time; while the beautiful and effective -restoration of the choir, which has lately been completed under the -skilful superintendence of Mr. Hussey, of Birmingham, commands the -admiration of all who take pleasure in ecclesiological improvements. The -fittings of the interior have been entirely renovated; the Bishop’s -throne, a splendid and characteristic erection, has been restored; a new -stone pulpit (the gift of Sir E. S. Walker, of Chester) has been -introduced, to harmonise with the style of the building; an altar screen, -to divide the Lady Chapel from the choir, has been presented by the Rev. -P. W. Hamilton, of Hoole; the eastern windows have been filled with -stained glass, of admirable design and execution, by Mr. Wailes, of -Newcastle; and a powerful organ, which cost £1000, has been built by -Messrs. Gray and Davison, of London. The expenses of the restoration -were defrayed by public subscription; and too much praise cannot be given -to the Dean (Dr. F. Anson) for the zeal and liberality with which he has -promoted these gratifying improvements, as well as for the efficient and -orderly manner in which the choral services of the Cathedral are -conducted. The fine old Church of St. John the Baptist, which in the -tenth century was the Cathedral of the diocese, with the adjacent ruins -of the Priory, should not be left unvisited; and St. Mary’s Church also -presents, in its roof and monuments, some objects of interest worth -examining. Of the ancient Castle, very little, except Julius Cæsar’s -tower, remains; but a magnificent modern structure, for military and -county purposes, has been erected on the site of the old edifice, after -designs by the late Mr. Harrison, of Chester. The shire-hall is an -elegant fabric of light-coloured stone, the principal entrance to which -is through a portico of twelve columns in double rows, 22 feet high, and -3 feet 1½ inch in diameter, each formed of a single stone. The -court-room is a spacious semi-circular hall, lighted from above. The -county prison is behind, on a lower level, whence prisoners are brought -into the dock by a flight of steps. The extremities of the county-hall -are flanked by two uniform elegant buildings, facing each other, -appropriated as barracks for the officers and soldiers of the garrison. -In the higher ward is an armoury, where from thirty to forty thousand -stand of arms, and other munitions of war, are constantly kept, in the -same beautifully arranged manner as at the Tower of London. The spacious -open area in front of the Castle is enclosed by a semi-circular wall, -surmounted with iron railings; in the centre is the grand entrance, of -Doric architecture, greatly admired for its chaste construction and -elegant execution. The front view is classical and imposing. - -A noble Bridge crosses the Dee at the south-east angle of the Roodee, the -picturesque Race-course of Chester; it is approached by a new road from -the centre of Bridge-street, which passes by the castle esplanade, -proceeds across the city walls, and then by an immense embankment thrown -over a deep valley. The bridge consists of one main stone arch, with a -small dry arch or towing path on each side, by which the land -communication is preserved on both sides of the river. The -distinguishing feature of this edifice is the unparalleled width of the -chord or span of the main arch, which is of greater extent than that of -any other arch of masonry known to have been constructed. Of its -dimensions the following is an accurate delineation:—The span of the arch -is _two hundred feet_; {0} the height of the arch from the springing -line, 40 feet; the dimensions of the main abutments, 48 feet wide by 40, -with a dry arch as a towing path at each side, 20 feet wide, flanked with -immense wing walls, to support the embankment. The whole length of the -road-way, 340 feet. Width of the bridge from outside the parapet walls, -35 feet 6 inches, divided thus: carriage-road, 24 feet; the two -causeways, 9 feet; thickness of the parapet walls, 2 feet 6 inches. -Altitude from the top of the parapet wall to the river at low water mark, -66 feet 6 inches. The architectural plan of this bridge was furnished by -the late Mr. Thomas Harrison; Mr. James Trubshaw, of Newcastle, -Staffordshire, was the builder; Mr. Jesse Hartley, of Liverpool, the -surveyor. The bridge was formally opened in October, 1832, by her Royal -Highness the Princess (now Queen) Victoria, on occasion of her visit and -that of her royal parent, the Duchess of Kent, to Eaton Hall. As a -compliment to her noble host, the bridge was named Grosvenor Bridge by -the young Princess. - -Our limited space prevents us from entering into particular descriptions -of other buildings and antiquities, which might well claim our attention; -as the remarkable Crypt and Roman Bath in Bridge-street, the Museum at -the Water Tower, the Blue Goat Hospital, the Training College, the Linen -Hall, the Episcopal Palace, the Exchange, &c.; but we must not omit to -remind the stranger, that when at Chester, he is only three miles distant -from that magnificent modern mansion, Eaton Hall, the seat of the Marquis -of Westminster. The approach to the beautiful and extensive park in -which this princely abode is situated, is by an elegant Lodge on the -Grosvenor Road, about a quarter of a mile from Chester Castle; or the -excursion may be made by a boat on the lucid bosom of the river Dee, -which runs through verdant meads and lovely scenery close by the -pleasure-grounds of the Hall. Visitors must be careful to provide -themselves with tickets, which may be obtained of the publisher of this -little work in Bridge-street Row, or they will not be admitted to view -the interior of the mansion. The elaborate adornments, the gorgeous -fittings, and the truly magnificent architecture of Eaton Hall, with its -superb furniture, its beautiful pictures, and exquisite sculpture, never -fail to excite the most lively admiration; and to pass it without a call, -would be held by the residents of this neighbourhood to be a sort of -topographical heresy, of which tourists should not be guilty. - -Having satisfied their taste and curiosity by exploring the attractions -and characteristics of Chester and the vicinity, we will suppose that our -travellers are now ready to proceed into Wales; and for the purpose of -directing and enlivening their journey, we present them, in this little -Manual, with a faithful Guide and an amusing Companion by the way. The -admirer of Nature, in her wildest or her loveliest guise; the man of -antiquarian research, the student of history, the valetudinarian in quest -of health, or the ardent votary of “the rod and line,” anxiously seeking -for favourable spots where the angler may best indulge his piscatorial -fancies; may find in the following pages some information adapted to his -taste and pursuits. - -Among the other advantages which Chester possesses as a starting-place -for visiting the Principality, may be mentioned its position as a grand -central terminus, where the London and North Western, the Chester and -Holyhead, the Shrewsbury and Chester, the Chester and Birkenhead, and the -Lancashire and Cheshire Junction Railways, meet. A splendid station, -commensurate with the requirements of the traffic from this combination -of railway interests, will forthwith be built at Chester, at an estimated -cost of £80,000. The Shrewsbury and Chester line being now open as far -as Ruabon, pleasant excursions can easily be made to the vale of -Gresford, Wrexham, Wynnstay Park, and Llangollen: and as in August of -this year (1847) the Chester and Holyhead Railway will be opened as for -as Conway, visits to that delightful locality, including the intermediate -stations for Flint, Mostyn, St. Asaph, Rhyl, and Abergele, may then be -enjoyed in a day. Facilities like these will no doubt tend greatly to -increase the number of tourists to North Wales; where the principal -hotels are admirably conducted, and carriages, cars, and horses, with -civil drivers well acquainted with the country, may be engaged on -satisfactory terms. - -It may not be without its use to indicate a few excursions, which would -include some of the most interesting and romantic parts of the -Principality. From Chester, a charming trip may be taken to Hawarden, -Holywell, St. Asaph, Abergele, Conway, Aber, Bangor, Menai Bridge, -Beaumaris; returning by Penrhyn Castle, the Nant Ffrancon Slate Quarries, -Capel Curig, Rhaiadr-y-Wennol, Bettws-y-Coed, Pentrevoelas, Corwen, -Llangollen, Wynnstay Park, Wrexham, Eaton Hall, Chester; or Eaton Hall -may be taken on leaving Chester, Wrexham next, and so on to Beaumaris, -returning by Conway and Holywell. This route may be comfortably -accomplished in four days; or if pressed for time, in three, as the -railway would be available from Ruabon (Wynnstay Park) to Chester. - -Another excursion, which would occupy four days, might be made by taking -the railway from Chester to Birkenhead, embarking at Liverpool in the -steam-packet which passes Beaumaris and the Menai bridge for Caernarvon, -thence to Beddgelert, Pont Aberglaslyn, and return, ascend Snowdon, -descend to Dolbadarn, Pass of Llanberis, Capel Curig, Rhaiadr-y-Wennol, -and return by Nant Ffrancon slate quarries, Penrhyn Castle and Bangor, -thence by steamer to Liverpool. - -An agreeable and more extended route may also be taken from Caernarvon to -Clynog, Pwllheli, Criccieth, Tremadoc, Port Madoc, Tan-y-bwlch, -Maentwrog, Ffestiniog, Beddgelert, Nant Gwynan, Capel Curig, -Rhaiadr-y-Wennol, Bettws-y-coed, Llanrwst, Conway, Penmaen Mawr, Aber, -and Bangor for the packet to Liverpool. - -Another journey may be accomplished in nine days:—from Chester to Eaton -hall, Wrexham, Wynnstay, Chirk Castle, Llangollen, Valle Crucis Abbey, -Corwen, Vale of Edeirnion, Bala, Dolgelley, Cader Idris, Barmouth, -Harlech, Maentwrog, Tan-y-Bwlch, Ffestiniog, Port Madoc, Tremadoc, Pont -Aberglaslyn, Beddgelert, Capel Curig, Dolbadarn, Victoria Hotel, Snowdon, -Caernarvon, Menai bridge, Bangor, Aber, Conway, Abergele, St. Asaph, -Denbigh, Ruthin, Mold, Chester. - -Those whose time is less limited can readily select tours which will -include a wider range of country, according to their taste and -convenience; we have, therefore, adopted, in our literary panorama, an -alphabetical arrangement, which, with the aid of the index, will direct -the reader to the description of any place he may be desirous of -visiting; and, as the distances are also marked, he may readily calculate -the extent of the route he contemplates. The work has been compiled from -authentic sources, and has been carefully revised, throughout, by the -present editor, with the view of presenting to the public an accurate and -entertaining Guide-book through North Wales. - - - - -GLOSSARY. - - -The English traveller, in passing through North Wales, will find the -following Welsh terms frequently occur in the names of places; to which -are subjoined their significations in English. - -_Ab_, or _Ap_, a prefix to proper names, signifying the son of - -_Aber_, the fall of one water into another, a confluence. - -_Am_, about, around. - -_Ar_, upon, bordering upon. - -_Avon_, or _Afon_, a river. - -_Bach_, little, small. - -_Ban_, high, lofty, tall. - -_Bedd_, a grave or sepulchre. - -_Bettws_, a station between hill and vale. - -_Blaen_, a point or end. - -_Bôd_, a residence. - -_Braich_, a branch, an arm. - -_Bron_, the breast, the slope of a hill. - -_Bryn_, a hill, a mount. - -_Bwlch_, a gap, defile, or pass. - -_Bychan_, little, small. - -_Cader_, a hill-fortress, a chair. - -_Cae_, an inclosure, a hedge. - -_Cantref_, a hundred of a shire, a district. - -_Caer_, a city, a fort, a defensive wall. - -_Capel_, a chapel. - -_Carn_, a heap. - -_Carnedd_, a heap of stones. - -_Careg_, a stone. - -_Castell_, a castle, fortress. - -_Cefn_, ridge, the upper side, the back. - -_Cell_, a cell; also a grove. - -_Cil_, (pronounced keel) a retreat, a recess. - -_Clawdd_, a hedge, a dyke. - -_Clogwyn_, a precipice. - -_Côch_, red. - -_Coed_, a wood. - -_Cors_, a bog or fen. - -_Craig_, a rock or crag. - -_Croes_, a cross. - -_Cwm_, a valley, vale, or glen. - -_Dinas_, a city, or fort, a fortified place. - -_Dôl_, a meadow or dale, in the bend of the river. - -_Drws_, a door-way, a pass. - -_Dû_, black. - -_Dwfr_, or _Dwr_, water. - -_Dyffryn_, a valley. - -_Eglwys_, a church. - -_Ffordd_, a way, a road, a passage. - -_Ffynnon_, a well, a spring. - -_Gallt_, (mutable into _Allt_) a cliff, an ascent, the side of a hill. - -_Garth_, a hill bending round. - -_Glàn_, a brink or shore. - -_Glâs_, bluish, or grayish green. - -_Glyn_, a glen or valley through which a river runs. - -_Gwern_, a watery meadow. - -_Gwydd_, a wood. - -_Gwyn_, white, fair. - -_Gwys_, a summons. - -_Havod_, a summer residence. - -_Is_, lower, inferior, nether. - -_Llan_, church, a smooth area, an inclosure. - -_Llwyn_, a grove. - -_Llyn_, a lake, a pool. - -_Maen_, a stone. - -_Maes_, a plain, an open field. - -_Mawr_, great, large. - -_Melin_, a mill. - -_Moel_, a smooth conical hill. - -_Mynydd_, a mountain. - -_Nant_, a ravine, a brook. - -_Newydd_, new, fresh. - -_Pant_, a hollow, a valley. - -_Pen_, a head, a summit; also chief, or end. - -_Pentref_, a village, a hamlet. - -_Pistyll_, a spout, a cataract. - -_Plâs_, a hall or palace. - -_Plwyf_, a parish. - -_Pont_, a bridge. - -_Porth_, a ferry, a port, a gateway. - -_Pwll_, a pit, a pool. - -_Rhaiadr_, a cataract. - -_Rhiw_, an ascent. - -_Rhôs_, a moist plain or meadow. - -_Rhŷd_, a ford. - -_Sarn_, a causeway, a pavement. - -_Swydd_, a shire; also an office. - -_Tàl_, the front or head; also tall. - -_Tàn_, under. - -_Traeth_, a sand or shore. - -_Tre_, or _Tref_, a home, a town. - -_Tri_, three. - -_Troed_, a foot, the skirt of a hill. - -_Twr_, a tower. - -_Tŷ_, a house. - -_Waun_ (from _Gwaun_), a meadow, downs. - -_Y_, the, of. - -_Yn_, in, at, into. - -_Ynys_, an island. - -_Ystrad_, a vale, a dale. - -_Yspytty_, a hospital, an almshouse. - - - - -NORTH WALES DISTANCE TABLE - - Distance Distance - from from - Chester. London. - 46 Aberconway or Conway, _f._ (market day) 230 - 34 Abergele 12 Abergele, _s._ 225 - 39 Bala 32 45 Bala, _s._ 195 - 61 Bangor 15 27 46 Bangor, _f._ 242 - 68 Beaumaris 22 34 53 7 Beaumaris, _tu._ and _f._ 249 - 70 Caernarvon 24 36 41 9 13 Caernarvon, _s._ 244 - 31 Corwen 35 32 12 41 49 50 Corwen, _w._ and _f._ 194 - 25 Denbigh 23 14 26 37 44 46 18 Denbigh, _w._ and _s._ 214 - 57 Dolgelley 50 58 18 47 51 38 30 44 Dolgelley, _tu._ and _s._ 213 - 14 Flint 34 23 34 49 56 58 26 17 52 Flint 203 - 69 Haerlech 45 56 34 36 40 27 47 58 19 64 Haerlech, _s._ 232 - 7 Hawarden 40 28 33 55 62 64 25 20 51 8 63 Hawarden, _s._ 196 - 86 Holyhead 40 52 71 25 28 30 66 62 68 74 57 80 Holyhead, _s._ 267 - 18 Holywell 29 18 37 45 52 54 28 12 62 5 70 11 70 Holywell, _f._ 207 - 23 Llangollen 45 36 22 51 58 60 10 23 40 31 56 31 76 34 Llangollen, _s._ 184 - 69 Llanidloes 82 90 50 81 85 72 65 77 34 77 53 74 106 80 55 Llanidloes, _s._ 188 - 51 Llanrwst 12 20 20 23 30 32 23 20 38 37 33 40 48 32 33 70 Llanrwst, _tu._ and _s._ 218 - 70 Machynlleth 64 72 32 62 69 53 44 58 15 66 36 66 87 69 54 20 53 Machynlleth, _w._ 206 - 12 Mold 39 30 27 53 60 62 19 16 45 7 60 6 78 10 24 77 36 59 Mold, (by Wrexham), _w._ & _s._ 189 - 49 Montgomery 79 72 43 87 93 84 45 58 44 58 63 55 112 61 35 23 66 37 51 Montgomery, _th._ 169 - 58 Newtown 76 77 44 87 93 85 51 63 41 63 60 62 112 66 41 14 64 28 56 9 Newtown, _tu._ & _s._ 175 - 21 Pwllheli 45 57 43 30 34 21 68 67 37 79 25 85 51 75 65 71 37 52 70 76 78 Pwllheli, _w._ & _s._ 243 - 21 Ruthin 31 22 18 45 52 54 10 8 36 16 48 15 70 18 15 69 28 49 10 50 55 59 Ruthin, _m._ & _s._ 206 - 28 St. Asaph 19 8 38 34 41 43 24 6 56 15 64 21 59 10 28 88 26 70 18 64 69 69 14 St. Asaph, _f._ 218 - 41 Welshpool 67 63 35 79 86 76 34 49 36 44 55 48 104 59 27 28 57 42 42 8 14 85 41 55 Welshpool, _th._ 171 - 12 Wrexham 48 39 34 62 69 71 22 25 52 19 69 16 87 22 12 58 46 67 12 39 44 78 18 31 30 Wrexham 177 - - - - -PANORAMA. - - -ABER, -(_Caernarvonshire_.) - - _Distance from_ _Miles_. -Port Penrhyn 5 -Llanvair Vechan 2 -Conway 9 -Penmaen Mawr 3 -Llandegai 3½ -London 245 - -ABER, or, as it is called by way of distinction, Aber-gwyngregyn, the -Stream of the White Shells, is a small neat village, situated on the -Holyhead and Chester road, near the Lavan Sands, at the extremity of a -luxuriant vale watered by the river Gwyngregyn, which runs into the Irish -sea; it commands a fine view of the entrance into the Menai, with the -islands of Anglesea and Priestholme, and the vast expanse of water which -rolls beneath the ragged Ormesheads. The pleasantness of its situation, -and the salubrity of its air, render this place exceedingly attractive -during the summer season, and the beach, at high water, is very -convenient for sea bathing. - -The church is an ancient structure, with a square tower; the living being -in the gift of Sir R. W. Bulkeley. - -The Bulkeley Arms is an excellent inn, where post-chaises and cars may be -had. - -This is considered a very convenient station for such persons as wish to -examine Penmaen-mawr, and the adjacent country, either as naturalists or -artists. From this place also persons frequently cross the Menai straits -immediately into Anglesea, in a direction towards Beaumaris. The -distance is somewhat more than six miles. When the tide is out, the -Lavan Sands are dry for four miles, in the same direction, over which the -passenger has to walk within a short distance of the opposite shore, -where the ferry-boat plies. In fogs, the passage over these sands has -been found very dangerous, and many have been lost in making the -hazardous enterprise at such times. As a very salutary precaution, the -bell of Aber church, which was presented for the purpose by the late Lord -Bulkeley, in 1817, is rung in foggy weather, with a view to direct those -persons whose business compels them to make the experiment. It would be -dangerous for a stranger to undertake the journey without a guide, as the -sands frequently shift: however, since the erection of the Menai bridge, -this route is seldom taken. - -The village is situated at the mouth of the deep glen, which runs in a -straight line a mile and a half between the mountains, and is bounded on -one side by a magnificent rock, called Maes-y-Gaer. At the extremity of -this glen, a mountain presents a concave front, down the centre of which -a vast cataract precipitates itself in a double fall, upwards of sixty -feet in height, presenting in its rushing torrent over the scattered -fragments of rock a grand and picturesque appearance. - -At the entrance of the glen, close to the village, is an extensive -artificial mount, flat at the top, and near sixty feet in diameter, -widening towards the base. It was once the site of castle belonging to -the renowned prince, Llewelyn the Great, foundations are yet to be seen -round the summit; and in digging, traces of buildings have been -discovered. This spot is famous as the scene of the reputed amour of -William de Breos, an English baron, with the wife of the Welsh hero, and -of the tragical occurrence which followed its detection. This -transaction, which has given rise to a popular legend, is well told in -Miss Costello’s “Pictorial Tour,” published in 1845:— - -Llywelyn had been induced by the artful promises of the smooth traitor, -king John, to accept the hand of his daughter, the princess Joan; but his -having thus allied himself did not prevent the aggressions of his -father-in-law, and John having cruelly murdered twenty-eight hostages, -sons of the highest Welsh nobility, Llywelyn’s indignation overcame all -other considerations, and he attacked John in all his castles between the -Dee and Conway, and, for that time freed North Wales from the English -yoke. - -There are many stories told of the princess Joan, or Joanna, somewhat -contradictory, but generally received: she was, of course, not popular -with the Welsh, and the court bard, in singing the praise of the prince, -even goes so far as to speak of a female favourite of Llywelyn’s, instead -of naming his wife: perhaps he wrote his ode at the time when she was in -disgrace, in consequence of misconduct attributed to her. It is related -that Llywelyn, at the battle of Montgomery, took prisoner William de -Breos, one of the knights of the English court, and while he remained his -captive treated him well, and rather as a friend than enemy. This -kindness was repaid by De Breos with treachery, for he ventured to form -an attachment to the princess Joan, perhaps to renew one already begun -before her marriage with the Welsh prince. He was liberated, and -returned to his own country; but scarcely was he gone than evil whispers -were breathed into the ear of Llywelyn, and vengeance entirely possessed -his mind: he, however, dissembled his feelings, and, still feigning the -same friendship, he invited De Breos to come to his palace at Aber as a -guest. The lover of the princess Joan readily accepted the invitation, -hoping once more to behold his mistress; but he knew not the fate which -hung over him, or he would not have entered the portal of the man he had -injured so gaily as he did. - -The next morning the princess Joan walked forth early, in a musing mood: -she was young, beautiful, she had been admired and caressed in her -father’s court, was there the theme of minstrels and the lady of many a -tournament—to what avail? her hand without her heart had been bestowed on -a brave but uneducated prince, whom she could regard as little less than -savage, who had no ideas in common with her, to whom all the refinements -of the Norman court were unknown, and whose uncouth people, and warlike -habits, and rugged pomp, were all distasteful to her. Perhaps she sighed -as she thought of the days when the handsome young De Breos broke a lance -in her honour, and she rejoiced, yet regretted, that the dangerous -knight, the admired and gallant William, was again beneath her husband’s -roof. In this state of mind she was met by the bard, an artful retainer -of Llywelyn, who hated all of English blood, and whose lays were never -awakened but in honour of his chief, but who contrived to deceive her -into a belief that he both pitied and was attached to her. Observing her -pensive air, and guessing at its cause, he entered into conversation with -her, and having ‘beguiled her of her tears’ by his melody, he at length -ventured on these dangerous words.— - - “Diccyn, doccyn, gwraig Llywelyn, - Beth a roit ti am weled Gwilym?” - - “Tell me, wife of Llywelyn, what would you give for sight of your - William?” - -The princess, thrown off her guard, and confiding in harper’s faith, -imprudently exclaimed:— - - “Cymru, Lloegr, a Llywelyn, - Y rown i gyd am weled Gwilym!” - - “Wales, and England, and Llywelyn—all would I give to behold my - William!” - -The harper smiled bitterly, and, taking her arm, pointed slowly with his -finger in the direction of a neighbouring hill, where, at a place called -Wern Grogedig, grew a lofty tree, from the branches of which a form was -hanging, which she too well recognised as that of the unfortunate William -de Breos. - -In a dismal cave beneath that spot was buried “the young, the beautiful, -the brave;” and the princess Joan dared not shed a tear to his memory. -Tradition points out the place, which is called Cae Gwilym Dhu. - -Notwithstanding this tragical episode, the princess and her husband -managed to live well together afterwards; whether she convinced him of -his error, and he repented his hasty vengeance, or whether he thought it -bettor policy to appear satisfied; at all events, Joan frequently -interfered between her husband and father to prevent bloodshed, and -sometimes succeeded. On one occasion she did so with some effect, at a -time when the Welsh prince was encamped on a mountain above Ogwen lake, -called Carnedd Llywelyn from that circumstance; when he saw from the -heights his country in ruins, and Bangor in flames. Davydd, the son of -the princess, was Llywelyn’s favourite son. Joan died in 1237, and was -buried in a monastery of Dominican friars at Llanvaes, near Beaumaris; -Llywelyn erected over her a splendid monument, which existed till Henry -the Eighth gave the monastery to one of his courtiers to pillage, and the -chapel became a barn. The coffin, which was all that remained of the -tomb, like that of Llywelyn himself, was thrown into a little brook, and -for two hundred and fifty years was used as a watering trough for cattle. -It is now preserved at Baron Hill, near Beaumaris. - - - -ABERDARON, -(_Caernarvonshire_.) - -Caernarvon 36 -Nevyn 16 -Pwllheli 16 - - - -This is a miserably poor village, at the very extremity of -Caernarvonshire, seated in a bay, beneath some high and sandy cliffs. On -the summit of a promontory are the ruins of a small church, called Capel -Vair, or Chapel of our Lady. The chapel was placed here to give the -seamen an opportunity of invoking the tutelar saint for protection -through the dangerous sound. Not far distant, are also the ruins of -another chapel, called Anhaelog. At this spot, pilgrims in days of yore -embarked on their weary journey to pay their vows at the graves of the -saints of Bardsey. - -The original church was a very old structure, in the style of ancient -English architecture, dedicated to St. Hyrwyn, a saint of the island of -Bardsey, and was formerly collegiate and had the privilege of sanctuary; -it contained a nave, south aisle, and chancel, and was an elegant and -highly finished building. A new church has been recently built, on the -site of the old one, at the expense of the landed proprietors, aided by -the church building societies. - -The mouth of the bay is guarded by two little islands, called Ynys -Gwylan, a security to the small craft of the inhabitants, who are chiefly -fishermen. It takes its name from the rivulet Daron, which empties -itself here. - -This primitive village is noted as the birth place of Richard Robert -Jones, alias Dick Aberdaron, the celebrated Welsh linguist. He was born -in 1778, and died in deep distress at St. Asaph in 1843. Jones was the -son of a carpenter, and always evinced a want of capacity, except in the -acquiring of languages by self culture. He began with the Latin tongue -when fifteen years of age. At nineteen he commenced with Greek, and -proceeded with Hebrew, Persiac, Arabic, French, Italian, and other modern -languages; and was ultimately conversant with thirteen. Notwithstanding -that he read all the best authors, particularly in the Greek, he seemed -to acquire no other knowledge than as to the form and construction of -language. He was always in great indigence, and used to parade the -streets of Liverpool extremely dirty and ragged, with some mutilated -stores of literature under his arm, and wearing his beard several inches -long. He was at one time much noticed by the late Mr. Roscoe, who -secured him a weekly stipend, which however was not maintained after the -death of that distinguished scholar. - - -Bardsey Island, - - -Generally called by the Welsh Yr Ynys Enlli (the Island of the Current), -and formerly known as the Island of the Saints, is situated about three -leagues to the west of Aberdaron; it is somewhat more than two miles long -and one broad, and contains about 370 acres of land, of which near -one-third is occupied by a high mountain, affording sustenance only to a -few sheep and rabbits. The number of inhabitants does not exceed one -hundred, and their chief employment is fishing, there being great -abundance round the island. It is the property of Lord Newborough. - -On the south-east side, which is only accessible to the mariner, there is -a small well sheltered harbour, capable of admitting vessels of 30 or 40 -tons burden. The lighthouse was erected in 1821; it is a handsome square -tower, 74 feet high, and surmounted by a lantern, 10 feet high. - -This island was formerly celebrated for an abbey, a few portions only of -which are now remaining. Dubricius, archbishop of Caerlleon, resigned -his see to St. David, retired here, and died A.D. 612; he was interred -upon the spot, but such was the veneration paid to his memory in after -ages, that his remains were removed in the year 1107 to Llandaff, and -interred in that cathedral, of which Dubricius had been the first bishop. -After the slaughter of the monks of Bangor Is-y-coed, nine hundred -persecuted men who had embraced Christianity, sought a sacred refuge in -this island, where numbers of the devout had already established a -sanctuary, and found repose from the troubles which then raged through -the Principality. - - - -ABERDOVEY, -(_Merionethshire_.) - -Aberystwyth across the sands 11 -Barmouth 16 -Dolgellau 21 -Machynlleth 10 -Towyn 4 - -This is a small sea-port in the parish of Towyn, and about four miles -from that place. It is pleasantly situated on the northern side of the -mouth of the river Dovey, which here empties itself into Cardigan bay, -and is rapidly rising into estimation as a bathing place. The beach is -highly favourable for bathing, being composed of hard firm sand, -affording a perfectly safe carriage-drive of about eight miles in length, -along the margin of the sea. The ride to Towyn along the sands, at low -water, is extremely delightful. - -Several respectable houses and a commodious hotel (the Corbet Arms) have -of late years been erected for the accommodation of visitors; and a -chapel of ease has also been lately built by subscription, which affords -great convenience to the inhabitants, who are four miles distant from the -parish church. Service is performed every Sunday morning in English, and -in the afternoon in the Welsh language. - -The river Dovey is here one mile in width, and is crossed by a ferry, -which leads by a road along the sea shore to Borth, whence is a -communication with the Aberystwyth road. During the spring tides the -ferry can only be crossed at low water, on account of the sands being -flooded, and so rendered impassable. The river is navigable nine miles -up a most picturesque country, and affords good trout fishing. - - - -ABERFFRAW, -(_Anglesea_.) - -Caernarvon Ferry 3 -Mona Inn 8 -Newborough 7 - -Aberffraw, once a princely residence, is now reduced to a few small -houses; it is situated on the river Ffraw, near a small bay. Not a -vestige is to be seen of its former importance, except the rude wall of -an old barn, and Gardd y Llys, at the west end of the town. It was a -chief seat of the native princes, and one of the three courts of justice -for the Principality. Here was always kept one of the three copies of -the ancient code of laws. This place is of great antiquity, being one of -three selected by Roderic the Great, about 870, for the residence of his -successors. In 962 it was ravaged by the Irish. An extent was made of -Aberffraw in the 13th Edward III, from which may be learned some of the -ancient revenues of the Welsh princes. It appeared that part arose from -the rents of lands, from the profits of mills and fisheries, and often -from things taken in kind; but the last more frequently commuted for -their value in money. There is a good inn called the Prince Llywelyn. - -Near to Aberffraw is Bodorgan, the seat of Owen Augustus Fuller Meyrick, -Esq., which is pleasantly situated, and overlooks Caernarvon bay. The -mansion, gardens, and conservatories are worth a visit from the tourist - - - -ABERGELE, -(_Denbighshire_.) - -Bangor 27 -Chester 35 -Conway 12 -London 225 -Rhuddlan 5 -Rhyl 7 -St. Asaph 8 - -Abergele, {8} a market town, is pleasantly situated on the great Chester -and Holyhead road, on the edge of Rhuddlan marsh, and about a mile from -the sea shore. The church is ancient, with a plain uninteresting tower, -which the white-washing hand of modern “improvement” has deprived of all -pretensions to the picturesque. The town consists only of one long -street; and in 1841, its population, with the parish, was returned at -2661. - -The coast is composed of firm hard sands, affording delightful drives for -many miles. Tradition says, the sea has in old time overflowed a vast -tract of inhabited country, once extending at least three miles -northward; as an evidence of which, a dateless epitaph, in Welsh, on the -church-yard wall, is cited, which is thus translated: “In this church -yard lies a man who lived three miles to the north of it.” There is, -however, much stronger proof in the fact, that at low water may be seen, -at a distance from the clayey bank, a long tract of hard loam, in which -are imbedded numerous bodies of oak trees, tolerably entire, but so soft -as to cut with a knife as easily as wax: the wood is collected by the -poorer people, and, after being brought to dry upon the beach, is used as -fuel. - -The salubrity of the air, the pleasantness of situation, and the -superiority of its shore for sea-bathing, have rendered this town a -favourite resort for genteel company, and it has long been a fashionable -watering place. The environs are picturesque, the scenery beautiful, and -many interesting excursions may be made from this locality. The Bee -Hotel, one of the best in the kingdom, is a most comfortable house, and -possesses superior accommodations; and there are some excellent private -lodgings to be had in the town: for those who would prefer a more -immediate contiguity to the sea, there are cottages close to the beach, -fit for respectable families, and apartments may be had from farmers, who -are in the habit of accommodating visitors for the summer season. -Bateman Jones, Esq. has a handsome residence on the road between the town -and the beach. Besides the Chester and Holyhead and other mails that -pass through Abergele, there is an omnibus which runs daily to Voryd, to -meet the Liverpool and Rhyl steam-packet. - -The pretty villages of Bettws and Llanfair are in this immediate -neighbourhood: near the former is Coed Coch, the residence of J. Ll. -Wynn, Esq. Llanfair is most picturesquely situated on the Elwy, a little -way above its conflux with the Aled. Close to the village is Garthewin, -the sylvan residence of Brownlow W. Wynne, Esq. embowered in trees; and -following up the Elwy and its narrow but beautiful valley, is the village -of Llangerniew; near to it is Llyn Elwy, the pool from which issues and -gives name to the river Elwy. Havod-unos, about a quarter of a mile from -the village, is the seat of S. Sandbach, Esq. an eminent Liverpool -merchant, who some time ago purchased it and the estate, once the -property of a long list of _ap Llwyds_. Two or three miles to the -south-east, lies the village of Llansannan, at the head of the pretty -vale of Aled. Close below the village is the elegant modern mansion of -the Yorkes, called Dyffryn Aled: it is built of Bath free stone, and -presents a very beautiful and classical structure. These are places a -little out of the common track of tourists, but they will not be -disappointed at visiting them; and from Abergele is the most convenient -start to them. The roads are good; the country very beautiful; trout -fishing is excellent in the Elwy and Aled from their sources, the Aled -and Elwy pools, to Rhuddlan; and the villages afford very good passing-by -accommodations. - -On the hills above Abergele, grow some of the more uncommon plants; -geranium sanguineum, rubia peregrina, halloboris fœtidus. In the shady -wood, paris quadrifolia, and ophrys nidus avis; and on the beach, -glaucium luteum, and eryngium maritimum abundantly. The hills are -interesting to the geologist as well as to the botanist; and command -remarkably grand and extensive views of the ocean, and of the adjacent -mountain scenery. - -About a mile from Abergele, on the left of the road towards Conway, -stands Gwrych Castle, a modern castellated mansion, the property and -residence of Henry Lloyd Bamford Hesketh, Esq. The situation is -admirably chosen for a magnificent sea view, which, owing to the constant -passing of vessels for the ports of Liverpool and Chester, is extremely -beautiful and animated. Very near to this singular but ambitious looking -structure, is a huge calcareous rock, called Cefn-yr-Ogo (or the Back of -the Cavern), an inexhaustible mine of limestone, where a multitude of -labourers are constantly employed in blasting the rock, and breaking the -masses, which are exported to Liverpool and other places. But what -chiefly renders it curious is the circumstance of a number of natural -caverns penetrating its side in different places; one of which, called -Ogo (or the Cavern), is well worth a visit. It is celebrated in history -as having once afforded a place of retreat to a British army. Its mouth -resembles the huge arched entrance of a Gothic cathedral. A few feet -within this, and immediately in the centre of it, a rock rising from the -floor to the lofty roof, not unlike a massive pillar rudely sculptured, -divides the cavern into two apartments. The hollow to the left soon -terminates; but that to the right spreads into a large chamber, 30 feet -in height, and stretching to a greater depth than human curiosity has -ever been hardy enough to explore. Making a short turn a few yards from -the entrance, and sweeping into the interior of the mountain, the form -and dimension of the abyss are concealed in impenetrable darkness, and -its windings can only be followed about forty yards with prudence, when -the light totally disappears, and the flooring becomes both dirty and -unsafe. Stalactites of various fanciful forms decorate the fretted roof -and sides of this extraordinary cavern. {10} - -From Cave Hill (Cefn-yr-Ogo), is an extensive and varied prospect. The -city of St. Asaph, the Vale of Clwyd, the mountains of Flintshire, and in -clear weather, a portion of Cheshire and Lancashire, with the town of -Liverpool, are distinctly seen to the eastward; and to the north is -visible the Isle of Man; to the west, the Island of Anglesea; and to the -south-west, the mountains of Caernarvonshire. Just below is the small -village of - - -Llanddulas. - - -In this little village or glen it is supposed that Richard the Second was -surrounded and taken by a band of ruffians, secreted by the Earl of -Northumberland, for the purpose of forcing him into the hands of -Bolingbroke, who was at Flint. Here enterprise has discovered the means -of realizing wealth. A railway, several miles long, has been constructed -from the sea to Llysfaen limestone rocks, being on a remarkably steep -incline down the side of the mountain. It is a stupendous work, and -highly creditable to the projector, Mr. Jones. - -About two miles nearer Conway, is the increasing and respectable village -of Colwyn. A new church has lately been erected here. Glan-y-don, the -seat of H. Hesketh, Esq., is in this neighbourhood; Mr. Wynne and Dr. -Cumming have cottages here, and many other genteel residences have -recently been built. The sea bathing is very good, and the place is -pleasant and salubrious. Up the valley, to the left of the bridge, is -the village of Llanelian, with its calm green meadows, and its far-famed -holywell, or Ffynan Fair. - -Returning to Abergele, and at the opposite end, is a good and direct road -to Rhuddlan, through a number of excellent and extensive corn farms. The -road crosses the celebrated Morva Rhuddlan (or Rhuddlan Marsh). - -About three miles on the St. Asaph road is the neat and clean little -village of - - -St. George, or Llan Saint Sior; {12} - - -And about a quarter of a mile before you come to it, you pass on your -right Pen-y-Parc Hill, on the top of which is a Roman encampment, -afterwards occupied by the famous Owen Gwynedd, during his struggles -against English encroachments; and it was here he pitched his tents after -his “fine retreat before Henry the Second, whom he here kept at bay.” -The curious may visit it from the village, inquiring for Park Meirch, -_where the old battles were fought_. And close to this place is -Dinorben, an ancient manor-house, from which is the title of Lord -Dinorben, whose residence, Kinmel Park, is a little beyond, and close to -the village. About six years since the mansion was destroyed by fire; -but has now been rebuilt in a style of princely elegance, and has once -more become the home of that hospitality for which the respected -proprietor is famous. The park is finely wooded and well stocked with -deer. The scenery from the house is rich, varied, and beautiful; the -gardens and grounds are extensive, and tastefully laid out. His royal -highness, the Duke of Sussex, for several years before his death, -annually spent some weeks at Kinmel in the shooting season. - -The church at St. George is a neat structure, and has recently been -restored by Lord Dinorben, the patron. In the church-yard is a costly -stone mausoleum, in the Gothic style, erected over the remains of Lady -Dinorben, a lady beloved for her virtues, and eminent for her charities. -The architect was Mr. Jones, of Chester: the design and workmanship are -chaste and elegant. - -Not far from Kinmel, towards St. Asaph, is Bodelwyddan, the modern -elegant mansion of Sir John Hay Williams, Bart., one of the most lovely -spots in Wales; and in the plain below is Pengwern, the hospitable seat -of Lord Mostyn. - - - -ABERYSTWYTH, -(_Cardiganshire_.) - -Aberdovey 11 -Devil’s Bridge 12 -Llanidloes 30 -London, by Ross 217 -Machynlleth 18 - -[It may be necessary to apprise the reader, that though this work is -professedly a description of North Wales ONLY, it has been thought -advisable to deviate from the letter of its title, so far as to include -within its pages the above distinguished town, and that great and -attractive curiosity, the Devil’s Bridge; both of which, situated in -Cardiganshire, the North Wales tourist usually visits, the town being -only 18 miles beyond Machynlleth, and the cataract the same distance from -Llanidloes.] - -Aberystwyth has long been esteemed a fashionable watering place; the -gently sloping beach, the clearness of the water, and the salubriousness -of the air, have all conspired to render it an inviting spot for -sea-bathing; and within the last few years, the efforts of art have been -sedulously employed in seconding the works of nature, by furnishing to -its visitants excellent roads, superior accommodations, and suitable -buildings for fashionable amusements. Pleasant walks have also been -formed in the environs. The town, which owes its origin to the erection -of the castle, is described by Leland as having been encompassed by -walls, (the last remains of which were removed some years since,) and as -being in his time a better market than Cardigan; and Camden, who ascribes -the building of its walls to Gilbert de Clare, earl of Strongbow, states, -that it was then the most populous town in the county. Since that time -it has materially increased, both in extent and importance, and may be -still regarded as the most flourishing place in this part of South Wales, -its population in 1841 being returned at 4916. It is pleasantly situated -at the lower extremity of the valley of Rheidiol, amid lofty hills, and -on a bold eminence overlooking the bay of Cardigan, by which it is -bounded on one side, while on the other it is environed by the Rheidiol, -over which is a stone bridge of five arches, forming an entrance to it -from the south. - -The houses are in general well built, and of respectable appearance, -several of them being large and handsome, especially such as are of -modern erection, which are entirely of stone. The streets are disposed -with considerable regularity, and well paved and macadamised. The -inhabitants are supplied with water from the river Rheidiol, which is -brought into the town on carriages in the form of small carts, drawn by -one horse, each holding two barrels, and sold at a low rate. About the -commencement of the last century, it began to rise into notice as a -bathing-place, and from a series of progressive improvements, is now one -of the most frequented places of fashionable resort on this part of the -coast. - -The beach affords a pleasant and interesting walk; and the shore, -consisting of lofty and precipitous rocks of dark-coloured slate, is worn -by the action of the waves into caverns of romantic and picturesque -appearance. The beach is composed of fine pebbles, among which are found -many valuable stones; the water in consequence is always peculiarly -clear, and uncontaminated with any admixtures. In sandy situations, the -contrary is frequently the case. The fine stones are picked up with -great avidity by the numerous visitors residing here in the summer -months, and afford ample employment to several lapidaries in the town. -Hot sea-water, vapour, and medicated baths are provided with every -requisite accommodation; several bathing machines are in attendance, and -from the convenient sloping of the beach, a facility of bathing is -afforded at almost any state of the tide, within a very short distance of -the shore. For the reception of the increasing number of visitors, many -additional lodging-houses have been built, of which the Marine Terrace, a -handsome range of modern buildings suitable for private families, is -situated on the margin of the bay, commanding a fine marine view. The -Belle Vue is a spacious and commodious hotel; in front of which is a fine -promenade. On the south-west of the Marine Terrace, is a gateway leading -to a spacious castellated mansion, called the Castle-house, commanding an -extensive view across the bay: it was originally built as a private -mansion by the late Sir Uvedale Price, Bart. of Foxley hall, -Herefordshire, and consists of three octagonal towers, connected by -ranges of apartments, and having a light and elegant balcony on the side -towards the sea. Beyond this, on one side is the Castle Hill, crowned -with the venerable ruins of an ancient fortress, and forming another -favourite promenade, affording from different points various extensive, -romantic, and interesting views of the sea, the neighbouring hills, and -the surrounding country. - -On the other side of the Castle Hill, separated only by the churchyard, -are the new public rooms, handsomely built in the Grecian style of -architecture, on ground given by W. E. Powell, Esq., of Nant Eös, from a -design by Mr. Repton, at an expense of £2000, raised by subscription in -shares of £10 each, and opened to the public in 1820. The suite consists -of a very handsome assembly and promenade room, a card-room and a -billiard-room. There is a good library in the new market-place; a new -theatre has been built on the north parade, and was opened for the first -time in the summer of 1833. The church, dedicated to St. Michael, was -built by subscription in the year 1787: it is a plain structure, situated -within the precincts of the castle, and separated from the walks along -the ruins of that edifice by a stone wall erected at the expense of the -inhabitants. A gallery was erected in the church at its western end in -the year 1790, at an expense of £104 14s., which was defrayed by Mrs. -Margaret Pryce. The service is performed in the morning and evening in -the English language, and in the afternoon in Welsh; there is likewise -service on the evenings of Wednesday in the English, and on the Thursday -in the Welsh language. - -The augmented population of this place, and the increasing number of -visitors during the season, having rendered the erection of another place -of worship necessary, a church or chapel has been recently built upon a -large scale by subscription, after a plan by Mr. Haycock, of Shrewsbury, -in the modern Gothic style, at an expense of £3600, including a grant of -£1000 from the parliamentary commissioners, and £400 from the society for -the enlargement of churches and chapels: it was consecrated in September, -1833. The parish church is situated at Llanbadarn, at about a mile -distant from the town. There is a peculiarity regarding the grave-stones -at this place: they are generally fixed in a stack of bricks built up for -the purpose, and white-washed, the tablet appearing in front. The -surface of the grave is usually paved with a kind of small marble stones, -which are found in abundance on the beach. There are also several places -of worship for dissenters. Aberystwyth likewise possesses the advantage -of a chalybeate spring, situate at a very short distance east of the -town. This spring was discovered by a kind of accident in 1779. It is -highly spoken of, as containing valuable medicinal properties, and much -resembling the Tunbridge waters; but it is always advisable that a -physician should be consulted as to the season and extent of its use. To -complete the circle of attractions which this interesting place presents, -the annual races are here rising into repute; these usually take place in -August, in a field near Gogerddan, about three miles from the town. -Archery and cricket clubs have also been established, and are upheld with -great spirit; and here the lovers of angling may be gratified with their -favourite diversion. The Ystwyth and the Rheidiol are in the immediate -vicinity; the autumnal fishing for salmon and sewin is excellent; and -within a day’s excursion, a variety of lake-fishing will afford capital -sport. - -Aberystwyth contains many interesting relics of antiquity, and was -evidently in the “olden time,” a place of some renown, as well as a scene -of some of the unhappy troubles which darkened the reign of Charles the -First. - -In queen Elizabeth’s reign a company of Germans reaped a large fortune in -working the silver mines in the vicinity of this town. Sir Hugh -Myddleton, after them, was equally successful, and accumulated £2000 a -month out of one silver mine at Bwlch yr Eskir, which enabled him (in -1614) to bring the new river to London. He, again, was succeeded by Mr. -Bushell, a servant of Sir Francis Bacon, who also gained such immense -profits, that he made Charles the First a present of a regiment of horse, -and clothed his whole army; he also furnished the king with a loan of -£40,000, which was considered as a gift to supply his necessities; and -when that unfortunate monarch was pressed, his devoted subject raised a -regiment among his miners at his own charge. - -On Pen Dinas, a very high and steep hill, near the bridge over the -Rheidiol, is a large entrenchment, still in a good state of preservation, -and where, Caradoc informs us, Rhŷs ap Gruffydd, in 1113, encamped his -forces, which, by a manœuvre of the English, were enticed from the hill -over the bridge, to besiege Aberystwyth castle, where they were -surrounded and cut off almost to a man. The tradition of the town -attributes this entrenchment to the forces employed by Cromwell to -besiege the castle. Opposite this, on a hill at the extremity of the -town, are two other entrenchments, in a bad state of preservation and -destitute of the tumuli or barrows, often found contiguous to such -vestiges in Wales. - -Aberystwyth is a place of considerable trade; but the harbour, being a -bar harbour, is of uncertain and often dangerous navigation, and -frequently choked up, until the land freshes come down, after heavy falls -of rain, and force a passage. The trustees, acting under the harbour act -passed in 1780, being empowered to raise the sum of £4000 for its -improvement, upon mortgage of the dues, and seeing the necessity of doing -something more effectually than the works they were occasionally enabled -to erect by the expenditure of the annual revenues, which were constantly -being swept away by the sea, determined upon employing that eminent -engineer and hydrographer, the late Mr. Nimmo, to survey the harbour, and -to give his report thereon. The report having been published, by which -it appeared that a sum of £10,000 was necessary to carry his suggestions -into effect; a committee was formed, who issued a prospectus, soliciting -subscriptions from those disposed to aid them in the accomplishment of so -desirable an object, and the following munificent donations were -immediately made: the Duke of Newcastle, £1000; the Earl of Lisburne, -£500; Colonel Powell, M.P. £500; Pryce Pryce, Esq. M.P. £500. The works -have since been completed. - -The walks and drives in the vicinity are numerous and engaging; and from -the number of eminences by which the town is environed on the land side, -views the most varied and interesting present themselves to the lover of -the picturesque. From the summit of Pen Dinas, he at once beholds three -beautiful valleys, with the rivers Ystwyth and Rheidiol winding their -devious course on either side beneath his feet. On turning round, he is -gratified with a magnificent view of the expansive bay of Cardigan, with -its bold coast stretching out on either hand to the extremity of -Cardiganshire on the southern side, and that of Caernarvon on the -northern; the latter embracing within its range the rocky ridge of Cader -Idris and the lofty peaks of Snowdon. The prospect from the summit of -Craig-lâs is equally beautiful and diversified. The new line of road to -Hereford and Shrewsbury, completed at an expense of £4000, along the -opposite bank of the Rheidiol, to the Devil’s Bridge road, and nearly -parallel with it, passes through some fine scenery, and the course of the -river from the excellent new inn at Ponterwyd is wild and terrific, -particularly about the spot called the Parson’s Bridge, half a mile -therefrom. - -The hotels and inns at Aberystwyth afford every comfort for the -entertainment of visitors, and there is every facility of coach -travelling to various parts of the country. - - -THE DEVIL’S BRIDGE, -(_Cardiganshire_.) - -Aberystwyth 12 -Havod 4 -Llanidloes 19 - -Pont-y-Mynach, or Pont-ar-Fynach, vulgarly the Devil’s Bridge, near the -Havod Arms inn, is a single arch, about 30 feet in the chord, thrown over -another arch of less than 20 feet, which spans a dark and tremendous -chasm. The under arch is said to have been thrown across by the monks of -Ystrad Florida Abbey, about the year 1087; but the country people, -thinking so bold an effort above the reach of those ghostly fathers, -ascribed it to his Satanic Majesty. The present bridge was built in -1753, at the expense of the county, over the original, which was left -standing; and the railings were put up in 1814, by Mr. Johnes, of Havod. -It is a most romantic and extraordinary structure. - -The scenery in this neighbourhood is inexpressibly grand and sublime—what -Byron would call, “a blending of all beauties;” a combination of all -those lovely charms and impressive wonders, which Nature has scattered -with such exuberant prodigality throughout the mountains and valleys of -Wales. - -The Havod Arms inn stands on a most interesting site in this locality, -and affords excellent accommodation to tourists. - -Few persons, whether from North or South Wales, who visit the falls of -Pont-y-Mynach, but will be desirous of seeing the celebrated seat of the -late Mr. Johnes, at - - -Havod, - - -Which is about four miles distant. The mansion was built, and the estate -laid out in its present paradisaical state of loveliness, by the late Mr. -Johnes, of whom it has been truly said, he made the barren wilderness -around him to smile, and converted the worthless heath into waving woods, -luxuriant corn fields, and pastures. From October, 1795, to April, 1801, -Mr. Johnes planted more than 2,065,000 trees, besides a great number of -acres that he sowed with acorns. Since this period the plantations have -been extended on the same scale with equal spirit; from one to two -hundred thousand trees being planted every year. - -The mansion is built of Portland stone, in a somewhat novel mode of -architecture, from designs by Mr. Baldwyn of Bath; it combines the -distinguishing features of the Moorish and Gothic styles, with turrets -and painted windows. It is situated near the banks of the river Ystwyth, -and beautifully environed by lofty hills, clothed with oak. The interior -of the house corresponds in elegance with the exterior. - -A correct idea of the enchanting beauties of the scenery has been left on -record by the elegant pen of Mr. Cumberland:—“Havod is a place in itself -so pre-eminently beautiful, that it highly merits a particular -description. It stands surrounded with so many noble scenes, diversified -with elegance as well as with grandeur; the country on the approach to it -is so very wild and uncommon, and the place itself is now so embellished -by art, that it will be difficult, I believe, to point out a spot that -can be put in competition with it, considered either as the object of the -painter’s eye, the poet’s mind, or as a desirable residence for those -who, admirers of the beautiful wildness of nature, love also to inhale -the pure air of aspiring mountains, and enjoy that _santo pacé_, as the -Italians expressively term it, which arises from solitudes made social by -a family circle. From the portico it commands a woody, narrow, winding -vale; the undulating form of whose ascending shaggy sides are richly -clothed with various foliage, broken with silver waterfalls, and crowned -with climbing sheep-walks, reaching to the clouds. Neither are the -luxuries of life absent; for, on the margin of the Ystwyth, where it -flows broadest through this delicious vale, we see hothouses and a -conservatory; beneath the rocks, a bath; amid the recesses of the woods, -a flower-garden; and within the building, whose decorations, though rich, -are pure and simple, we find a mass of rare and valuable literature, -whose pages here seem doubly precious, where meditation finds scope to -range unmolested. - -“In a word, so many are the delights afforded by the scenery of this -place and its vicinity, to a mind imbued with any taste, that the -impression on mine was increased after an interval of ten years from the -first visit, employed chiefly in travelling among the Alps, the -Appennines, the Sabine hills, and the Tyrolese; along the shores of the -Adriatic, over the Glaciers of Switzerland, and up the Rhine; where, -though in search of beauty, I never, I feel, saw any thing so fine—never -so many pictures concentrated in one spot; so that, warmed by the renewal -of my acquaintance with them, I am irresistibly urged to attempt a -description of the hitherto almost virgin-haunts of these obscure -mountains. - -“Wales, and its borders, both North and South, abound, at intervals, with -fine things: Piercefield has grounds of great magnificence, and wonderful -picturesque beauty; Downton Castle has a deliciously wooded vale, most -tastefully managed; Llangollen is brilliant; the banks of the Conway -savagely grand; Barmouth romantically rural; the great Pistyll-y-Rhaiadr -is horribly wild; Rhaiadr-y-Wennol gay, and gloriously irregular; each of -which merits a studied description. But at Havod and its neighbourhood, -I find the effects of all in one circle; united with this peculiarity, -the deep dingles, and mighty woody slopes, which, from a different -source, conduct the Rheidiol’s never-failing waters from Plinlimmon, and -the Mynach, are of an unique character, as mountainous forests, -accompanying gigantic size with graceful forms; and taken altogether, I -see ‘the sweetest interchange of hill and valley, rivers, woods and -plains, and falls, with forests crowned, rocks, dens, and caves,’ -insomuch that it requires little enthusiasm there to feel forcibly with -Milton— - - ‘All things that be send up from earth’s great altar - Silent praise.’ - -“There are four fine walks from the house, chiefly through ways -artificially made by the proprietor; all dry, kept clean, and composed of -materials found on the spot; which is chiefly a coarse stone, of a -greyish cast, friable in many places, and like slate, but oftener -consisting of immense masses that cost the miner, in making some parts of -these walks, excessive labour; for there are places where it was -necessary to perforate the rock many yards, in order to pass a promontory -that, jutting across the way, denied further access; and to go round -which you must have taken a great tour, and made a fatiguing descent. As -it is, the walks are so conducted that few are steep; the transitions -easy, the returns commodious, and the branches distinct. Neither are -there too many; for much is left for future projectors; and if a man be -stout enough to range the underwoods, and fastidious enough to reject all -trodden paths, he may, almost every where, stroll from the studied line, -till he be glad to regain the friendly conduct of the well-known way. -Yet one must be nice, not to be content at first to visit the best points -of view by the general routine; for all that is here done has been to -remove obstructions, reduce the materials, and conceal the art; and we -are no where presented with attempts to force the untamed streams, or -indeed to invent any thing, where nature, the great mistress, has left -all art behind.” - -To this lively delineation, we shall only add one sentence of the Rev. -Mr. Warner, who, after visiting this spot, remarks:—“The whole together -forms a scene so striking, that while wandering through its ever-changing -beauties, we felt no inclination to tax Mr. Cumberland with enthusiasm -when he declared that in ten years’ travelling through the Alps, the -Appennines, the Sabine hills, and the Tyrolese; the shores of the -Adriatic; the Glaciers of Switzerland; and the banks of the Rhine; he -never saw any thing so fine—never so many pictures concentrated in one -spot.” - -The splendid library at Havod was adorned with a most valuable collection -of books and manuscripts, which Mr. Johnes had, at an immense expense, -brought together, many of which were unique and of the highest historical -importance, including those of Sir John Sebright’s collection, in the -Welsh language, together with some splendidly illuminated manuscripts of -Froissart. These, with several thousand volumes, comprising a complete -Don Quixote’s library, with other works of equal rarity, which cannot be -replaced, were unfortunately consumed by a fire which destroyed the -mansion on March 13, 1807. The origin of this calamity has never been -satisfactorily ascertained, neither is it possible to estimate, with any -approach to accuracy, the extent of the loss: it has been stated at -£70,000. However, Mr. Johnes determined to restore his mansion in the -best manner he could, and another collection of books was soon made, -founded by the Pesaro library, which Mr. Johnes had purchased in Italy, -and was on its way to Havod at the time when the fire occurred. - -This highly esteemed, accomplished, and public-spirited gentleman -survived the destructive visitation about nine years, during which he was -engaged in promoting improvements on his estate. He died at Exeter, and -his mortal remains were interred in the family vault at the new church -built by himself within the precincts of Havod grounds. His widow -survived until October, 1833, when she also died at Exeter, and was -buried in the same tomb with her respected husband and their only -daughter, who died on the 24th July, 1811, in the 27th year of her age. -The family becoming extinct upon the death of the widow, the vault, after -her interment, was completely arched over. - -The whole of the magnificent estate of Havod was put up to auction by Mr. -Robins, in the spring of 1831, and became the property of the Duke of -Newcastle, together with the timber, the splendid collection of books and -furniture, and the large cellar of choice wines, for which that nobleman -is said to have paid about £62,000. The noble duke expended a very large -sum in enlarging and improving, and became a most munificent benefactor -to the neighbourhood. In 1843, however, it was again submitted to the -hammer of Mr. Robins, but no sale was effected. The estate has since -been bought of His Grace by H. Bold Houghton, Esq. The purchase-money is -said to have been £150,000. - - - -AMLWCH. -(_Anglesea_.) - -Beaumaris 16 -Holyhead 20 -Llanerch-y-medd 6 -Menai Bridge 18 - -This is a market town on the coast, chiefly supported by the copper -mines, with which the surrounding district abounds. About the year 1766, -Amlwch had not more than half-a-dozen houses in the whole parish, but now -it contains a population exceeding 6000. It has a capacious harbour, cut -out of the solid rock or slate, executed at the expense of the mining -companies, capable of admitting thirty vessels of 200 tons burthen, where -originally there was only a cleft or opening, too small to receive a -single vessel. There are large smelting works for copper erected near -the harbour, the property of the mining companies. - -In conjunction with Beaumaris, Holyhead, and Llangefni, this town returns -one member to parliament. The church, consecrated in 1801, is an elegant -building, erected by the Parys mine company, at an expense of £4000. The -situation of Amlwch is most salubrious. - -The immense treasures contained in the Parys mountain, which is in the -immediate vicinity of Amlwch, and to which the town owes its prosperity, -were unknown and lay neglected until about the year 1765, when one -Frazer, a Scotch miner, came in search of ores, and gave encouragement to -other adventurers. Though he discovered copper ore by sinking shafts in -the mountain, he was discouraged from proceeding by the influx of water. -Sir N. Bailey, grandfather of the Marquis of Anglesea, who had leased the -lead mines at Penrhyn-dû, in Caernarvonshire, to the Macclesfield -company, bound them to make a spirited effort to work the Parys mine. -This they did, but with so little success, that after some time they sent -positive orders to the agent to discontinue his operations, and discharge -the miners. The agent, however, fortunately disobeyed the injunction; -and as a last attempt, collected all his mining force to one spot, where -he sunk a shaft, and within seven feet of the surface discovered a body -of ore which was worked with great success for many years. This happened -on the 2d of March, 1768, whence St. Chad has ever since been a venerated -patron of the Anglesea miners. - -In the Parys mountain are two mines: of these, that upon the eastern side -is called the Mona mine, the entire property of the Marquis of Anglesea, -who works it, and also the smelting house at Amlwch. The Parys mine is -the joint property of the Marquis of Anglesea and Lord Dinorben, and is -now worked by a company. The stranger, in order to see the mines to -advantage, should first furnish himself with a guide, to avoid danger, -and follow the steps of Mr. Bingley, who thus describes his efforts to -gratify his curiosity:—“Having ascended to the top, I found myself -standing on the verge of a vast and tremendous chasm. I stept on one of -the stages suspended over the edge of the steep, and the prospect was -dreadful. The number of caverns at different heights along the sides; -the broken and irregular masses of rock which everywhere presented -themselves; the multitudes of men at work in different parts, and -apparently in the most perilous situations; the motions of the whimsies, -and the raising and lowering of the buckets, to draw out the ore and -rubbish; the noise of picking the ore from the rock, and of hammering the -wadding when it was about to be blasted; with, at intervals, the roaring -of the blasts in different parts of the mine—altogether excited the most -sublime ideas, intermixed, however, with sensations of terror. - -“I left this situation, and followed the road that leads into the mine; -and the moment I entered my astonishment was again excited. The shagged -arches and overhanging rocks, which seemed to threaten annihilation to -any one daring enough to approach them, fixed me almost motionless to the -spot. The roofs of the work, having in many places fallen in, have left -some of the rudest scenes that the imagination can paint; these, with the -sulphureous fumes from the kilns in which the ore is roasted, gave it to -me a perfect counterpart to Virgil’s entrance into Tartarus. To look up -from hence and observe the people on the stages, a hundred and fifty feet -above one’s head; to see the immense number of ropes and buckets, most of -them in motion; and to reflect that a single stone, casually thrown from -above, or falling from a bucket, might in a moment destroy a -fellow-creature—a man must have a strong mind not to feel impressed with -most unpleasant sensations.” - -The mines are still prolific in their production of copper ore, and -afford a great revenue to their proprietors.—There are also alum works, -and a green vitriol manufactory in the neighbourhood of these mines. The -principal inns at Amlwch are Ty Mawr and the Castle. About four miles -distant is Llysdulas, the hospitable seat of Col. Hughes, brother to Lord -Dinorben. - - - -BALA, -(_Merionethshire_.) - -Corwen 12 -Dinas Mowddwy 18 -Dolgellau 17 -Ffestiniog 19 -London 207 -Mawr Twrog 22 - -Bala, or the Outlet of the Lake, is a small neat town consisting of one -long street, with two or three others crossing at right angles, and a -population of about 2500. There are two good inns here, the White Lion -and the Bull’s Head, the former being an excellent posting house. This -town is noted for its trade in woollen stockings, woollen comfortables, -and Welsh wigs. Mr. Pennant remarks, that in his time, on a Saturday, -their market-day, from two to five hundred pounds worth of these goods -were disposed of; but this staple appears to have greatly decreased since -that period. Still, however, knitting is here an almost universal -employment; and whether you walk in the town, or the country around, you -will scarcely ever meet a female unemployed, even while they carry water, -or other burdens upon their heads. - -Near the south-east end of the town is a high artificial mount, called -Tommen-y-Bala, supposed to be of Roman construction: in the summer time -it is usually covered, in a picturesque manner, with knitters of all -ages. From the summit there is it fine view of Llyn Tegid and the -adjacent mountains, which present a particularly grand and majestic -aspect in this vicinity, successfully rivalling the glories of Snowdonia. -The quarter sessions for the county are held here; and also the spring -assizes. The town-hall is a plain building, standing in the principal -street. A chapel-of-ease was erected in 1811 by subscription: it is a -plain structure, with a low tower, surmounted by a spire. The parish -church is situate at Llanycil, about a mile from the town: the service is -performed there in the morning, and at Bala in the afternoon. The Rev. -Thomas Charles, Calvinistic Methodist, the founder of the Bible Society, -resided here. He was a great promoter of education and Sunday schools -amongst his countrymen; and compiled a Welsh biblical dictionary in four -volumes. - - -Bala Lake, - - -Llyn Tegid, or Pimblemere, (for this pool has these various names) is -within a quarter of a mile south of the town, and is a fine expanse of -water, with well-cultivated, sloping boundaries, clothed in many parts -with verdant woods. - -Bala and it fine lake (says Mr. Roscoe in his “Wanderings through North -Wales,”) have attractions peculiar to themselves. To appreciate them as -they deserve, the traveller should first ascend the craggy summit of the -neighbouring mountain, and gaze upon the rude glens beyond, through which -the boisterous Twrch rushes in a succession of resounding falls. It is -by contrasting the wilder and fiercer tracts of the landscape, with its -milder features round the quiet hamlet and lake, that we add fresh zest -to the interchange of feelings ever open to the Cambrian traveller. Bala -lake is the most extensive in Wales, being nearly four miles in length, -and three quarters of one in breadth, its banks consequently embracing a -circuit of about nine miles. Its greatest depth is forty feet; and the -water is said to be so pure, that the nicest chemical tests can detect -scarcely any foreign admixture. - -Be this as it may, the lake has abundance of pike, perch, trout, eels, -and roach, with shoals of a fish called gwyniad, so named from the -extreme whiteness of its scales. It is a gregarious fish, often found in -the Alpine lakes, more especially those of Switzerland, and dies soon -after it is taken. Its weight rarely exceeds four pounds, and its -flavour is by many persons considered rather insipid; a circumstance that -by no means recommends the gallantry of the late Lord Lyttelton, when he -assures his friends that it is so exquisitely delicate as to more than -rival in flavour the lips of the fair maids of Bala themselves. But, -being so very good, and like the ladies of Bala, perhaps, sensible of -their attractions, these fish have the shrewdness to keep out of harm’s -way, as we are told, by remaining at the bottom of the water, where they -feed on small shells and aquatic plants, from which scarcely any bait -will induce them to emerge; they are, therefore, principally taken by -nets. The angler may always be certain that, while a cloud rests on -Aran, he may save himself the trouble of fishing in the lake. In former -times the fishery is stated to have formed part of the possessions -attached to Basingwerk Abbey, but has since fallen into the hands of Sir -Watkin Williams Wynn, who has pitched his tent, in the shape of a neat -sporting-box, quite according to the Irish rule, ‘convanient to the -spot.’ - -Though now so calm and beautiful,—reflecting all the quiet and clearness -of the heavens upon its breast, as the swallow skimmed its glassy -surface, and the wild-fowl sought their home in its little bays and -creeks,—the aspect of Bala Lake, when the storm is up, and ‘the winter -wild’ puts on his terrors, can assume a very different kind of beauty. -To see it when the autumnal winds ruffle its broad expanse with billows, -or the clouds discharge their contents as fiercely as the torrent from -the hills,—when the drifting rack and snow-storm mingle the last leaves -of the year with the scattered beauty of the meads and gardens, the -observer can no longer recognise the least resemblance in the -characteristics of the two landscapes, the Bala of the opposite seasons. - -Upon the north-east side, the water sometimes rises many feet above its -usual level. When the winds and the rains, as I was informed, ‘meet and -combine the whole of their forces,’ it is a grand sight to see the lake -overshoot its banks, and rush beyond into the valley of old Edeirnion. -Once, in the month of June, 1781, a part of the vicinity is believed to -have been inundated by one of those singular occurrences, the bursting of -an overcharged cloud, called a water-spout, which, however frequently -beheld at sea, seldom visits the land. It was attended by terrific -lightning and continuous rain, which caused the Twrch—fed by torrents -from the Bwlch-y-Groes hills—to overflow and sweep every thing before it. -The spoils of fields and villages, and even human life, marked the -progress of the flood; and as far as Corwen the rising of the rivers -suddenly burst on the ear of the affrighted people. The scene round Bala -is recorded by the old inhabitants as heart-rending and terrific. The -deep and dismal chasm, spanned by the one-arched bridge through which the -stream of the llyn pours its flood down the wildest rocky falls, -exhibited a magnificent sight, swelled by the mountain rains into one -immense volume of foaming cataract, which again bursting from its black -and caverned bed through the wooded glens beyond, rolled its unusual mass -of burdened torrents to join the waters of the Twrch. Along the course -of the Dee, huge branches, and some of the large forest-trees themselves, -which threw a gloomier shadow over the stormy scene, were uprooted by the -maddening storm and launched into the yawning flood. The lake rose with -the impulse of the storm, till it assumed the aspect of a wild and -restless sea, keeping stern music with the crashing of the neighbouring -woods and the whistling of the blast, while, drowning the roar of the -torrent, the thunder, ever and anon, startled the ear, and occasional -flashes illuminating the sky exhibited for a moment the lurid and -dreadful scene to view. - -Bala is an excellent station for anglers, who are sure of good sport, and -a delightful ramble on the banks of the lake. - - -The River Dee. - - -The name of the wizard stream is thought to have been derived from the -Welsh word Dwfr-Dwy, that is, the waters of the two rivers. Some -centuries ago the Dee was held in superstitious veneration by the -inhabitants of the country, from what were then believed the miraculous -overflowing of its banks at times when there had been no preceding heavy -rains: and from its being believed to have foretold some remarkable -events by changing its channel. History informs us, that when the -Britons, drawn up in battle-array on its banks, had been prepared to -engage with their Saxon foes, it was their custom first to kiss the -earth, and then for every soldier to drink a small quantity of the water. -The name is certainly not derived, as many have supposed, from _dû_, -black; for, except when tinged by the torrents from the mountain -morasses, its waters are perfectly bright and transparent. In Spenser’s -description of Caer Gai, the dwelling of old Timon, foster-father of -Arthur, the colour of the Dee is considered very different from black: - - “Lowe in a valley green. - Under the foot of Rawran mossie o’er, - From whence the river Dee, as _silver clene_. - His tempting billows roll with gentle roar.” - -That lover of the marvellous, Giraldus Cambrensis, informs as very -gravely, that the river Dee runs through Bala lake, and is discharged at -the bridge near the town without their waters becoming mixed. He, -doubtless, means to say, that the river might be traced by its appearance -from one end of the lake to the other. Giraldus has the reputation of -being very credulous. - -The Dee, descending from Bala lake, passes under a small bridge, at the -opposite end of which it enters, and from which the channel of the river -is formed. It then winds along the beautiful vale of Corwen, about four -miles below which it washes the eastern side of Denbighshire, and passing -the bridge at Llangollen, it very soon forms the boundary division -between England and Wales. Its chief tributaries are the Alwen, which -has its rise in one of the lakes on the western part of the county; the -Ceiriog, which descends from the slate mountains near Chirk; the -Clywedog, which it receives below Bangor Is-y-coed; and the Alun, which -rises in the mountains about Llandegla. It flows northward to Chester, -Flintshire, and the Irish sea. - -Close to Bala, on the Corwen road, is Rhiwlas, the seat of R. W. Price, -Esq.: the house is situated on an eminence, in the midst of extensive -grounds, and forms an interesting object, being profusely decorated with -an evergreen, which likewise adorns the lodge-gates. A considerable -stream, called the Tryweryn, which runs through the domain, adds much to -the general beauty of this pretty retreat. - - - -BANGOR. -(_Caernarvonshire_.) - -Abergele 27 -Beaumaris, by the bridge 6½ -Caernarvon 9 -Capel Curig 14½ -Conway 14½ -Holyhead 24 -London, by Chester 251 -— by Shrewsbury 237 -Plas Newydd 5 -Penmaen Mawr 8½ - -Bangor, (from ban côr, the high and beautiful choir,) is a small but -neatly built town, and the most ancient see in the Principality. Its -present population, 7232. It has been much improved within the last few -years, especially since the erection of the Menai Bridge, which has -attracted numerous visitors anxious to see one of the finest works of -human skill, though still inconsiderable in comparison with its -importance in ancient times, when it was denominated Bangor Vawr, or the -Great Bangor, probably to distinguish it from Bangor Is-y-coed in -Flintshire. The town is delightfully situated in a sheltered vale, -between two high ridges of slate rock, at the mouth of the Menai Straits, -of which it commands a beautiful prospect. - -Bangor and its environs have the advantage of an almost inexhaustible -diversity of walks, rides, and sea excursions; and in addition to these -highly interesting facilities, several new roads and path-ways have -recently been completed and generously thrown open to the public by the -spirited proprietors of the Pen’r-allt estate, who disposed of that -valuable property to various persons, for the erection of villas, -ornamental marine residences, lodging houses, and public baths. - -Garth-point, the eastern extremity of the Pen’r-allt property, a short -distance from the city, where a ferry crosses to the Anglesea shore, is -unrivalled for the sublimity, picturesque beauty, and variety of its -surrounding objects, consisting of an immense expanse of seas, mountains, -lowlands, and plantations. To the left, on the Anglesea coast, are seen -an extensive sloping wood and a pretty marine cottage, forming part of -the domain of Baron Hill, the splendid mansion of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley, -Bart. M.P.; the town, castle, church, and bay of Beaumaris; and about -five miles further, to the north-east, Puffin or Priestholm Island, with -its tower and semaphore. To the right, on the Caernarvonshire coast, the -majestic promontory of Great Orme’s Head (abounding with copper ore) -stands boldly forward, apparently isolated, its rugged front protruding -like a rocky fortress into the sea, to guard the entrance to the Menai -Straits; Little Orme’s Head, Conway Bay, Penmaen Bâch, Pen-dyffryn, the -residence of Sir Chas. Smith; Penmaen Mawr, Bryn-y-neuadd, the seat of -John Wynne, Esq.; Prince Llywelyn’s Tower, the Pass, village and church -of Aber, the property of Sir Richard Bulkeley. To the south-east of -which appear, in pre-eminent height and grandeur, the cloud-capt Carnedd -Llywelyn and Carnedd Dafydd, in “Snowdon’s Alpine range;” Penrhyn Castle, -the superb mansion of the Hon. Col. Douglas Pennant, M.P.; Port Penrhyn -with its numerous shipping; the spacious Penrhyn Arms Inn and pleasure -grounds; Hirael quay and shore; forming altogether, in one expansive -view, a glorious panorama of at least thirty miles in circuit. - -At the egress of the river Cegid into the Menai, a commodious harbour has -been formed, called Port Penrhyn, which is capable of admitting and -securing vessels of three hundred tons burden. The quay is upwards of -three hundred yards long, and an immense tonnage of slates brought by -railway from the quarries about six miles distant, is thence shipped to -all parts of the world. A neat stone bridge over the river Cegid -connects the quay with the city. The market at Bangor is held on Friday. - -There are several excellent inns, where the traveller will find the best -accommodations, as well as post-chaises and cars, with “good horses and -careful drivers.” The Penrhyn Arms Hotel, a short distance from the -town, is really a princely establishment, on an extensive and admirable -scale of management. The Castle, Liverpool Arms, and Royal Oak inns, -have also a good reputation. - -The following extract from Dr. Johnson’s diary, when he visited this city -in 1774, in company with Mr. and Mrs. Thrale, will exhibit the progress -of improvement at Bangor in a very advantageous point of light:—“At -evening (says he) the moon shone eminently bright, and our thoughts of -danger (on passing Penmaen Mawr) being now past, the rest of our journey -was very pleasant. At an hour somewhat late, we came to Bangor, where we -found _a very mean inn_, _and had some difficulty of obtaining a -lodging_. _I lay in a room where the other bed had two men_.” What a -contrast to the splendid accommodation now obtainable by tourists at this -popular watering-place! Within the last twenty years, the population has -been quadrupled, almost all the town built or rebuilt, all the old roads -altered or widened, and new ones formed in the direction of London and -Holyhead. - -The facilities for travelling are abundant:—In summer there are -steam-packets everyday to and from Liverpool; and in winter, two or three -every week. The London mail passes through Bangor each way every day, -also the Chester and Liverpool mail; and besides these, there are daily -coaches to London, Chester, Liverpool, Caernarvon, Pwllheli, and -Barmouth. - -Three banks have been recently established at Bangor, one of which is a -branch of the Chester bank of Messrs. Williams and Co., at the Cottage, -the bottom of Waterloo-street; another, a branch of the North and South -Wales bank, in High-street, nearly opposite the Market-place; and the -third, a branch of the National Provincial, in the same street. By the -Reform Act, Bangor was made a contributory borough in returning a member -of parliament for Caernarvon; W. B. Hughes, Esq. is the present member. - - -The Cathedral - - -stands on a low piece of ground near the centre of the town, and -externally has but a humble appearance. It was founded about 525, by -Daniel, son of Dinothus, abbot of Bangor Is-y-coed, in Flintshire, under -the auspices of Maelgwm Gwynedd, king of Wales, founder of Penmon, patron -of Taliesin, and the most liberal prince of his time, though much abused -by Gildas, who calls him Insularum Draco, because he resisted the -innovations which Pope Gregory wished to introduce into the British -church by means of Augustine the monk, and which gave rise to the -denunciatory ode of Taliesin— - - “Gwa ’r offeiriaid mud.” - -The mother church suffered greatly at different periods during the civil -commotion. It was destroyed in 1071, but soon afterwards rebuilt; and in -1212, when King John invaded the country, having passed Conway, he halted -at Aber, and sent part of his army to burn Bangor. The city was -destroyed, and Robert of Shrewsbury, then bishop of that see, carried -prisoner to the English camp. He was afterwards ransomed for two hundred -hawks. The prelate was, however, suffered to remain here, although -incapable of performing his duty effectively, on account of his ignorance -of the language of the people. At his death, in accordance with his own -request, he was interred in the market-place at Shrewsbury. He was the -original compiler of the wonderful legend of St. Winifrede, afterwards -enlarged by Bishop Fleetwood. In the year 1402, the sacred edifice was -again reduced to ruin by the rage of Owen Glyndwr (who was infuriated by -his wrongs and sufferings), and lay in ruins ninety years, when the choir -was restored by Bishop Deane or Deny. The body and tower now existing -were built by Bishop Skeffington in 1532. - -Some considerable improvements were completed in the cathedral in 1827, -by the outlay of £2000 from the tithes of Llanddinam, in Montgomeryshire, -appropriated by an act of James the Second, 1685, for the repairs of -Bangor cathedral, and £2000 collected in different parts of the united -kingdom, by the praiseworthy and indefatigable exertions of the Rev. J. -H. Cotton, LL.B., then precentor and senior vicar, but now dean, the -whole of which has been expended in the most advantageous manner, under -his superintendence, and will remain a lasting monument of his zeal and -perseverance. Some years ago, the citizens of Bangor originated a -subscription to this estimable dignitary, in acknowledgment of the many -good services he had rendered to the city and neighbourhood. The worthy -dean, with his characteristic regard for the fabrics as well as the -doctrines of the church, devoted the sum to the ornamenting the cathedral -with a splendid painted window,—a lasting memorial of the respect and -veneration in which he is held, and of his praiseworthy -disinterestedness. - -The bishopric owes the chief of its revenues and immunities to Anian, -bishop of the diocese in the reign of Edward the First, who, being in -high favour with that monarch, and having had the honour of christening -the young prince, born at Caernarvon, afterwards Edward the Second, had, -as a compensation for the temporalities confiscated in the reign of Henry -the Third, various manors, ferries, and grants from the revenues of the -Principality, allotted to the see. - -Here was anciently a parish church, built in 975, by king Edgar, situated -about 400 yards north-east of the cathedral, and called Llanvair Edward -Vrenin. Bishop Skeffington, in Henry the Eighth’s time, caused it to be -taken down, and repaired the present church with the materials. Here, -likewise, near the sea shore, Tudor ab Gronwy, of Penmynydd and Tre’r -Castell, in Anglesea, founded a house of Black Friars, and was interred -there in 1311. In an old monody to this individual are the following -lines:— - - For Tudor dead, the tears incessant flow, - And Bangor suffers in the general woe. - -The free school was founded in 1557, by Dr. Jeffrey Glynn, upon the site -of this building. It has long enjoyed reputation as a training seminary -for Oxford, Cambridge, and Trinity College, Dublin. The environs are -well cultivated and picturesque, and are interspersed with handsome -residences, amongst which is that of the bishop’s palace. - -On the summit of a steep rock, opposite Friars’ School, are to be traced -the remains of an ancient castle, supposed to have been built by Hugh -Lupus, Earl of Chester, in the reign of Henry the Second. Several pieces -of scoria have been found on the spot, which leave no doubt that arrows -have been manufactured there at some very distant period. On the extreme -height of the opposite hill, at the back of Friars’ School, are the -remains of a British encampment, on an extensive scale, of more ancient -date than the preceding. These interesting objects will be found, on -investigation, well worthy the notice of the antiquary. It is -conjectured, that the British encampment alluded to, communicated, to the -southward, with Dinas Dinorwic, near Llandeiniolen, as that renowned -British station is distinctly seen from this spot; and also with another -to the east, called Braich-y-Ddinas, situate on the summit of Penmaen -Mawr. - -An elegant Roman Catholic chapel has recently been erected in the suburbs -of the city, on the Caernarvon road. - -Pleasant excursions may be made from Bangor to Conway, Caernarvon, -Beaumaris, Amlwch, Plâs Newydd, Aber, Port Penrhyn, Priestholm or Puffin -Island, Penrhyn Castle, the Llandegai slate quarries, and Snowdon. In -fact, the locality abounds with objects of natural beauty and historical -interest. - - -Great Suspension Bridge. - - -Within about two miles from Bangor, near the spot where the old ferry -was, stands that stupendous monument of human skill, the MENAI BRIDGE. - -The erection of this bridge was for several years in contemplation before -it was finally determined upon. In 1810 and 1811, several plans were -submitted to a committee of the House of Commons, and particularly one in -the latter year, by Mr. Telford, proposing a bridge of cast iron, the -expense of which was estimated at £127,000; but the difficulty of fixing -a proper centring, owing to the rocky bottom of the channel, and the -depth and rapidity of the tide-way, caused this project to be abandoned. -In 1818, a new plan was presented by the same engineer, for a bridge on -the suspension principle. In developing this plan, Mr. Telford remarks, -“The iron hanging bridge over the Menai to consist of one opening of 560 -feet between the points of suspension; in addition to which there are to -be seven arches, four on the coast of Anglesea, and three on that of -Caernarvonshire, each 60 feet in the span, making the total length of the -bridge 910 feet; the height above the level of high water line to be 100 -feet. The road-way will embrace two carriage ways, each twelve feet in -breadth, with a foot-path of four feet between them. The whole is to be -suspended from four lines of strong iron cables, by perpendicular iron -rods placed five feet apart, and these rods will support the road-way -framing. The suspending power is calculated at 2016 tons, and the weight -to be suspended, exclusive of the cables, is 343 tons, leaving a -disposable power of 1674 tons. - -“The four sides of the road-ways will be made of framed iron work, firmly -bound together for seven feet in height, and there will be a similar work -for five feet in depth below the cables. The weight of the whole bridge -between the points of suspension will be 489 tons. The abutments will -consist of the masonry, comprising the extreme stone-work, the two piers, -and the seven arches before mentioned: each of the two piers will be 60 -feet by 40½ wide at high water mark, having a foundation of rock. Upon -the summit of the two main piers, will be erected a frame of cast-iron -work, of a pyramidal form, for the purpose of raising the cables from -which the bridge is to be suspended.” The probable cost of erecting this -structure Mr. Telford estimated at £60,000, or, allowing for any -unforeseen charges, at most £70,000, about one-fourth of the calculated -expense of the cast-iron bridge on the old plan. - -The following particulars we extract from Dr. Pring’s Narrative of the -Grand Menai Suspension Bridge, published immediately on its completion. -“The first stone of this national bridge was laid without any ceremony on -the 10th August, 1820, by Mr. Provis, resident engineer. On the 26th -April, 1825, the first chain of this stupendous work was thrown over the -straits of Menai, in the presence of an immense concourse of people. At -half-past two o’clock, it then being about half flood tide, the raft -prepared for the occasion, stationed on the Caernarvonshire side, near -Treborth mill, which supported the part of the chain intended to be drawn -over, began to move gradually from its moorings, towed by four boats, -with the assistance of the tide, to the centre of the river, between the -two grand piers. When the raft was adjusted, and brought to its ultimate -situation, it was made fast to several buoys, anchored in the channel for -that purpose. A part of the chain, pending from the apex of the -suspending pier on the Caernarvonshire side down nearly to high-water -mark, was then made fast by a bolt, to the part of the chain laying on -the raft; which operation was completed in ten minutes. - -“The next process was the fastening of the other extremity of the chain -on the raft to two blocks of immense size and power, for the purpose of -hoisting it up to its intended station, the apex of the suspension pier -on the Anglesea side. When the blocks were made secure to the chain -(comprising 25 tons weight of iron), two capstans, and also, two -preventive capstans, commenced working, each capstan being propelled by -thirty-two men. To preserve an equal tenison in the rotatory evolutions -of the two principal capstans, two fifers played several enlivening -tunes, to keep the men regular in their steps, for which purpose they had -been previously trained. At this critical and interesting juncture, the -attention of every one present seemed rivetted to the novel spectacle: -the chain rose majestically, and the gratifying sight was -enthusiastically enjoyed by all present in ‘breathless silence!’ At ten -minutes before five o’clock, the final bolt was fixed, which completed -the whole line of chain, and the happy event was hailed by the hearty -acclamations of the spectators. Not the least accident, delay, or -failure, occurred in any department during the whole of the operation. -From the moving of the raft to the uniting of the chain, only two hours -and twenty-five minutes transpired. Upon the completion of the chain, -three of the workmen passed along its upper surface, which forms a -curvature of 590 feet; the versed sine of the arch is 43 feet. The -sixteenth chain, completing the whole line of suspension, was curried -over on the 9th of July following. - -“The general opening of the bridge took place on Monday, January 30th, -1826. The royal London and Holyhead mail coach, carrying the London -mail-bag for Dublin, passed over at one o’clock, A.M. and the first -carriage that passed was that of Augustus Elliott Fuller, Esq., one of -the commissioners, drawn by four beautiful greys; the first stage coach -was the Pilot, a Bangor and Caernarvon day coach; the first London stage -coach was the Oxonian. These were followed by the carriage of Sir David -Erskine, Bart., late proprietor of the ferry, drawn by four elegant -greys, decorated with ribbons, and by several gentlemen’s carriages, -landaus, gigs, cars, &c. and a long train of horsemen. Numerous flags -were flying; and cannons, stationed on each side of the bridge, were -discharged at intervals during the day. - -“The dimensions of the bridge are as follows:—The extreme length of the -chain, from the fastenings in the rock, is about 1715 feet; the height of -the road-way from high water line, is 100 feet; each of the seven small -piers from high water line to the spring of the arches, is 65 feet; the -span of each arch is 52½ feet. Each of the suspending piers is 53 feet -above the road; the roads on the bridge consist of two carriage-ways of -12 feet each, with a foot-path of four feet in the centre; the length of -the suspended part of the road from pier to pier is 553 feet; the -carriage-road passes through two arches in the suspending piers, of the -width of 9 feet by 15 feet in height to the spring of the arches. To -counteract the contraction and expansion of the iron from the effects of -the change of the atmosphere, a set of rollers are placed under cast-iron -saddles on the top of the suspending piers where the chains rest; the -vertical rods an inch square, suspended from the chains, support the -sleepers for the flooring of the road-way, the rods being placed 5 feet -from each other. The chains, sixteen in number, consist of five bars -each; length of the bars 10 feet, width 3 inches by 1 inch, with six -connecting lengths at each joint, 1 foot 4 inches by 8 inches, and 1 inch -thick, secured by two bolts at each joint, each bolt weighing about 50 -pounds; and the total number of the bars in the cross-section of the -chain is 80. The total weight of iron-work is 4,373,281 pounds.” - -The pen and pencil of genius have frequently been employed to delineate -the Menai Bridge, and whatever difference of taste may have prevailed in -determining the character of the various sketches, all writers have been -unanimous in their admiration of the intellect which could devise, and -the skill which could erect this magnificent and astonishing structure. -The approach by water has been thus described:—“When, on entering the -straits, the bridge is first seen suspended as it were in mid air, and -confining the view of the fertile and richly wooded shores, it seems more -like a light ornament than a massy bridge, and shews little of the -strength and solidity which it really possesses. But as we approached it -nearer, whilst it still retained its light and elegant appearance, the -stupendous size and immensity of the work struck us with awe; and when we -saw that a brig, with every stick standing, had just passed under it—that -a coach going over it appeared not larger than a child’s toy—and that -foot passengers upon it looked like pigmies, the vastness of its -proportions was by contrast fully apparent.” - -Another tourist gives the subjoined outline, while surveying the -attractive object on the spot:—“Having landed by means of boats on the -Anglesea side, we proceeded to the bridge, the visiting of which is a new -era in the lives of those who have not before had that pleasure, and is a -renewed luxury to those who have seen it again and again. Our party -walked over the bridge slowly, because there was something to be admired -at every step;—the effect of a passing carriage; the vibration caused -even by a hand applied to the suspending rods; the depth to the level of -the water; the fine view of the straits in both directions; the lofty -pillar erected in honour of the Marquis of Anglesea; the diminutive -appearance of persons on the shore; the excellence and strength of the -workmanship; the beauty of the arches over the road through the -suspension piers, and the echo in them; all conspired to delight and to -detain us. Many of our party then went down the steep bank to the foot -of the bridge, from which point, certainly, the best view is to be had of -the whole structure, inasmuch as by being in contact, as it were, with -its proportions on _terra firma_, a better idea can be formed of its -real, and indeed wonderful dimensions. We actually lingered about the -spot careless of time, or of aught but the scene we were contemplating.” - -From the Suspension Bridge to Beaumaris, the road is exquisitely -beautiful: it follows the line of the winding and indented shore of the -Menai: now commanding an extensive view of the noble bay, and its lofty -encircling mountains—now entering the woods of Baron Hill, scarcely -protected from the precipice, the base of which is washed by the waves, -which are heard chafing against the rock below—again it emerges from the -woods, and the whole glorious panorama bursts on the sight: the beautiful -town of Beaumaris lying at your feet, whilst the Ormeshead, Penmaen Mawr, -the Nant Francon mountains, and the more distant range of Snowdonia, with -Penrhyn Castle and Bangor, terminating with nature’s great rival, the -Bridge, form a prospect of remarkable beauty and sublimity. - -The Menai Straits, which separate Anglesea from the main land, although -bearing the appearance of a river, are formed by an arm of the sea; the -navigation of which is peculiarly dangerous at particular times of the -tide, and in stormy weather. At each extremity, during the flood, it has -a double current, from the concussion of which, termed Pwll Ceris, it is -perilous to encounter it; and so tremendous are the storms with which the -straits are occasionally disturbed, that before the erection of the Menai -Bridge, a tempestuous day has been sufficient to suspend the intercourse -of England with Ireland, the high road to which, _via_ Holyhead, lies -through Anglesea. Within the range of the coast, a distance of about -fifteen miles, there are six ferries; the first of which, to the south, -is Aber-Menai, nearly opposite Caernarvon, and the sixth, and widest at -high water, is between the village of Aber and Beaumaris. - -Nicholson, in his Cambrian Guide, says, “There appears but little doubt -of Anglesea having been once connected with the main land, as evident -traces of an isthmus are discernible near Porthaethwy ferry; where a -dangerous line of rocks nearly crosses the channel, and causes such -eddies at the first flowing of the tide, that the contending currents of -the Menai seem here to struggle for superiority. This isthmus once -destroyed, and a channel formed, it has been the work of ages, by the -force of spring tides and storms, gradually to deepen and enlarge the -opening.” In support of this hypothesis, the author of Beaumaris Bay -quotes the following historical facts:—“In the year 61, the Roman -infantry, under Suetonius, crossed the Menai on a bridge of boats, to -Pant-yr-Ysgraffiau (the inlet of the skiffs) under Porthamael, while the -cavalry forded it below Llanidan. Edward the First also crossed the -strait in the same manner at Moel-y-don, but suffered severely from an -unfortunate attack, on the return of the tide; several of his leading -warriors now lying in the chapel of the Friary, near Beaumaris.” - - -Railway Bridge across the Menai. - - -In the original prospectus for the construction of the Chester and -Holyhead railway, it was proposed to carry the line across the suspension -bridge which has just been described; the engines to be detached from the -trains at each end of the bridge, and the carriages to be conveyed over -by horses. The government very properly objected to an arrangement which -would have been in all respects a great public inconvenience. It was -then proposed to cross the Straits in the vicinity of the Britannia rock, -a little to the southward of the suspension bridge, by a bridge of two -cast-iron arches supported on piers of masonry. This project was opposed -by the trustees of the Caernarvon harbour, as a dangerous interference -with the free navigation of the Straits, which had always been of a -difficult and intricate character. A long and anxious investigation of -this matter ended in a proposal by Mr. Robert Stephenson, the eminent -engineer to the railway company, to construct a mode of transit, which -should be perfectly unobjectionable. In May, 1845, that gentleman -explained to a committee of the House of Commons, to whom the Chester and -Holyhead Railway Bill had been referred, that the engineers sent down by -the Board of Admiralty to Bangor having reported that the proposed -two-arched bridge would be injurious to the navigation, and recommended -one of a much greater width, and of a flat surface, without any arch; he -(Mr. Stephenson) had been under the necessity of preparing himself to -carry out those suggestions. He was apprehensive that owing to the -expansion and contraction of iron, in a position where the ends, as in an -arch, are jammed down on immovable piers of masonry, the fabric of an -iron arch of such great width might not be free from danger; and a -suspension bridge would not be safely available as a railway for -locomotive engines. He had therefore come to the conclusion, that a tube -or tunnel, of wrought iron, large enough for the passage of trains, would -be the most feasible plan, embracing safety for the navigation, and -creating no delay to the transit of the railway carriages over the -straits. The tube would be 900 feet in length, supported at the centre -in a pier of masonry, about 100 feet high, erected on the Britannia rock. -The ends would not be jammed, as in the case of an arch, but left free, -so as to admit of expansion in the metal arising from the change of -temperature. The practicability and safety of this novelty in -engineering science, were attested by several witnesses of competent -skill and ability; and the plan was ultimately sanctioned by Parliament. -The pier of masonry to be erected on the Britannia rock, which lies about -mid-way across the stream, is to have four sides, each of 50 feet width; -the water-way on each side of the pier to be 450 feet wide; the height -and shape of the Menai suspension bridge to be maintained in the -construction of the proposed tunnel, with the same clear headway for the -free passage of vessels navigating the straits. At a meeting of the -Chester and Holyhead Railway Company, in August 1845, the report -presented by the board of management contained the following passages:— - - “With reference to the magnitude, as well as the novelty of the work, - your directors deemed it essential that the plan of crossing the - Menai Straits, proposed by Mr. Stephenson, the company’s engineer, - should be subjected to the test of experiments. Those experiments - have been in progress for some time, and are now nearly completed. - The results as at present shewn are extremely satisfactory, - confirming most strongly the soundness of the principle, and giving - the most perfect confidence to your directors, with regard to the - proposed stupendous structure, that its erection will be easy, and - that its security will be complete and lasting. So satisfied is Mr. - Stephenson with the comparative strength, durability, and economy of - this new method of bridge-building, that he purposes adopting it also - for the crossing of the river at Conway.” - -In the spring of 1846, contracts for the erection of this novel bridge -over the Menai were entered into; the works are now in progress; and this -singular triumph of engineering skill will afford another extraordinary -instance of the achievements of railway enterprise; and add another to -the many wonders of nature and art, which abound throughout this -attractive district of the Principality. - - -Penrhyn Castle, - - -The magnificent seat of the Hon. E. Douglas Pennant, M.P. for -Caernarvonshire, is within an easy walk of Bangor. The present castle is -said to have been built on the site of a palace of Roderic Molwynog, -prince of Wales, who began his reign in 720, and long continued in -possession of the Welsh sovereigns. This ancient demesne has been a -favourite subject of the British muse from the earliest times. - - Abode of native chiefs, of bards the theme, - Here princely Penrhyn soars above the stream, - And phœnix-like, in rising splendour drest, - Shews on its wide domain a regal crest; - Here Cambria opes her tomes of other days, - And with maternal pride, the page displays— - Dwells on the glorious list, and loves to trace - From Britain’s genuine kings—her noblest race. - -The estate came into the family of Pennant, partly by the purchase of the -late Lord Penrhyn’s father (John Pennant, Esq.), and partly by his own -marriage with Anne Susannah, daughter and sole heiress of the -late-General Warburton, of Winnington, in Cheshire. By this matrimonial -compact, the two moieties, which had for some time been divided, became -united: and his lordship having no issue, the immense estates devolved -upon the late George Hay Dawkins Pennant, Esq., whose daughter married -the present respected possessor. The lady with whose hand so wealthy a -dowry was bestowed, died in the year 1842, and in January, 1846, the Hon. -E. D. Pennant married Lady Louisa Fitzroy, the accomplished daughter of -the Duke and Duchess of Grafton. Lord Penrhyn made very considerable -alterations in the mansion; and his immediate successor, whose public -spirit well accorded with that of his lordship, and whose generous -munificence endeared him to the surrounding district, was long engaged in -rebuilding it, in a magnificent style, so as to render it one of the most -complete edifices in the kingdom. It is erected in the boldest style of -castellated architecture, of Mona marble, and displays a magnificent -range of buildings, crowned with lofty towers, of which five are -circular; the keep, and another of the principal towers are square, with -angular turrets. The internal decorations correspond with the grandeur -of the exterior; the mantle-pieces and other ornaments being made of Mona -marble, which admits of a very high polish: the furniture is also -extremely elegant. The situation is most picturesque and imposing, and -commands a glorious, extensive, and diversified prospect of marine and -mountain scenery. There are several lodges forming entrances to the -park, all elegant in their design, and lofty in their elevation; the -principal one, which is near the junction of the London and Chester -roads, being a stately and beautiful specimen of the architecture of the -whole. A grand massive substantial gateway, on a corresponding plan, has -been completed; together with a handsome park wall, thirteen feet high, -and seven miles in circuit. - -There is an elegant chapel near the castle, for the accommodation of the -family; and on the beach are handsome and commodious hot and cold baths. -The stables are upon a noble and extensive scale. The building has a -handsome façade, fronted with patent slate, and the pilasters which -divide the stalls, as well as the mangers, are of the same material. -Indeed, this very valuable article appears to be converted, on the -Penrhyn demesne, to every possible use. The park is fenced with narrow -upright slate slabs, cut in imitation of palisadoes, and fixed by pins to -oaken railings, which find their support in posts formed of cubic slate. - -In this mansion is still preserved a hirlas, or drinking horn of the -hero, Piers Gruffydd, perhaps the only elegant specimen of that kind of -utensil, elucidatory of ancient manners, at present existing. It is a -large bugle, of an ox’s horn, ornamented with enchased silver, and -suspended by a chain of the same metal, having the initials of his own -name and family engraved at the end. Piers Gruffydd owned Penrhyn estate -in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and joined the fleet of Sir Francis -Drake, in a vessel which he purchased and equipped at his own cost. He -was afterwards in the gallant action with the Spanish Armada. In the -royal court of Cambria, there were legally three sorts of horns for the -purpose of public or private libations. The first was _y corn ydd yuo y -brenin_, or the one solely appropriated to the king’s use; second, _corn -cyweithas_, by which the domestics of the palace were summoned to duty; -and third, corn _y pencynydd_, committed to the custody of the chief -huntsman. On grand occasions, the domestics of the palace were permitted -to drink out of the sovereign’s horn; and the chamberlain or high -steward, on such occasions, furnished handsome potations of the generous -metheglin. The contents of the horn at these times assumed the name of -the sacred potion, similar to the _wassail_ bowl, or the apostle’s cup, -in use among the Saxons. Ulphus, when he conveyed certain lands to the -church at York, is said to have quaffed off the contents of such a -vessel, drinking a health, _Deo et sancto Petro_ (to God and St. Peter). -On festive days, the imperative custom was to empty the horn at one tip, -and instantly blow it, as a testimony that it had been thoroughly -drained. - -The improvements made by the late Lord Penrhyn in this very interesting -parish and its flourishing neighbourhood were most comprehensive and -important. The aspect of the country has, in fact, been thoroughly -changed; and profitable employment found for thousands of the working -population. About forty years ago, this part of the country bore a most -wild, barren, and neglected appearance; but it is now covered with -handsome villas, well-built farm-houses, neat cottages, rich meadows, -well-cultivated fields, and flourishing plantations; bridges have been -built, new roads made, bogs and swampy grounds drained and cultivated, -neat fences raised, and barren rocks covered with woods. - - -Slate Quarries. - - -The slate quarries at Cae Braich-y-Cefn (about six from Bangor), in the -vicinity of Nant Francon, the most considerable in Wales, are the -property of the family of Penrhyn Castle. The rock has been opened at -vast expense, and the quarries are worked with great judgment and -enterprise. There are more than 2000 persons continually employed; and -it is computed that about two hundred tons of slates are daily conveyed -down to Port Penrhyn, whence they are exported to various parts of the -kingdom, to Ireland, and to America. These quarries were discovered so -far back as the time of Queen Elizabeth. In 1740 the slates were all of -one size, and very small. But when Lord Penrhyn took the quarries into -his own hands, about 1782, his lordship cleared the rubbish, which had -been accumulating for ages, and opened these quarries in a judicious and -scientific manner. His lordship also constructed an iron railway from -the quarries to Port Penrhyn, a distance of six miles, which is said to -have cost £170,000. The weekly wages now paid to the workmen engaged in -these quarries amount to about £1700. - -On the arrival of a visitor, he should, if possible, obtain permission to -accompany one of the overlookers of the works in his round, rather than -trust to the casual guidance of any idler who may be found lurking about -with the intention to profer assistance; as the sole object of the latter -is to procure payment, without giving himself much trouble in pointing -out the wonders of the place. Should he be successful, the intelligent -and communicative spirit of his guide will amply repay the difficulty he -may have experienced in finding him. - -He will be conducted to every ledge of the mountain, up an inclined -plane, till he reaches the summit, and will have an opportunity of seeing -the whole process of the slate manufacture. In one place he will -discover the workmen aloft, suspended by ropes against the precipitous -side of the rock, busily employed in splitting down every projecting -shelf of the blue steganium; in another, persons employed in the -laborious occupation of boring for the purpose of filling the orifice -with gunpowder, to rend the rock from the immense mass to which it is -attached; others occupied in removing the rubbish, of which so many -years’ labour has produced a wonderful accumulation; and numbers in -splitting the detached masses, and cutting them into a variety of sizes, -denominated duchesses, countesses, ladies, &c. which names were bestowed -by General Warburton about the year 1765. This process is executed with -astonishing rapidity. Then may be heard the alarum shout, betokening -that a fusee is lighted and will soon explode, warning those employed in -the vicinity to secure themselves from danger; and in a few moments, the -explosion itself rattles through the extensive levels with terrific -grandeur. It cannot be expected that accidents amongst the workmen are -of rare occurrence; on the contrary, they too frequently happen, for -scarce a week passes without some poor fellows meeting with severe bodily -injury; but this is solely attributed to their own negligence of the -proper precaution. - -Portions of the mountain are farmed by individuals, who pay a price -consonant with the value or quality of the substratum, and employ workmen -to remove and fit it for exportation; when they receive so much per -thousand, in the same ratio, for their labour. There is a strong spring -of water at the top of the mountain, which is conveyed by a large wooden -pipe to the bottom, and there rendered serviceable in turning an immense -cutting mill. A few hundred yards distant, also, are several mills of -this description, where large pieces of rock are cut into grave-stones, -and into the requisite sizes for roofing houses, and for the use of -schools, &c. - -St. Ann’s chapel, near the quarries, was erected and liberally endowed by -the late Lord Penrhyn; and Lady Penrhyn left a sum for an organ, and a -suitable stipend for the organist.—Within a short distance of the slate -quarries is the charming cottage of the late Lady Penrhyn, called - - -Ogwen Bank. - - -It is now used by Mr. Pennant’s family as an occasional resort on paying -a morning visit to the quarries, or other objects of curiosity in the -neighbourhood. The style is florid Gothic, and shows great taste in the -design. The centre contains an elegant room, the front of it forming a -segment of a circle; the wings contain a coach house and stabling. Over -the river Ogwen is a bridge corresponding with the architecture of the -house. This beautiful cottage is hid from the road by the trees and -plantation; Llwyd calls it “the Eden of the Mountains.” - -Before quitting this remarkably interesting vicinity, we take leave to -quote the following description from the graphic pen of Miss Costello:— - - “From Bangor the lofty towers and turrets of Penrhyn Castle are - conspicuous in the scenery, and have a very grand and imposing - appearance, more so than any modern erection of the kind I ever saw. - The building stands on a commanding height, and from its elevation - has a magnificent view of Beaumaris Bay, and all the wide sweep of - the sea, Puffin or Priestholm Island and a great part of Anglesea, - the fine bold rock of the Great Orme’s Head, said to have once been - dedicated to Serpent worship, and the range of the Caernarvonshire - mountains. - - “So stately, so massive, and so stupendous is this castle, that it - scarcely seems the work of a modern architect; and if there had been - more simplicity observed in its construction, it might well pass for - a genuine Roman castle. The enormous profusion of ornament with - which the doors, windows, staircases, halls, and ceilings are - covered, betray the effort made to render that complete which would - have been more so with less pains. The involved pillars, the - redundant zigzags, the countless grotesque heads, of all sizes, - grinning from all heights, the groves of slender columns, the - circular arches, the semi-pointed arcades, form a maze of - architecture such as never could have before, in any age, appeared on - one spot. - - “To wander through the wondrous halls of Penrhyn is like struggling - along in a bewildered dream, occasioned by having studied some - elaborate work on the early buildings of the Saxons and Normans. The - eyes are dazzled and the mind confused with the quick succession of - astonishing forms; but the result is rather wonder at the imagination - or close copying of the artist, and at the enormous wealth which - could repay such an exertion of skill, than admiration of the beauty - created. Mona marble and fine stone furnish materials for all these - sculptured treasures, and slate enters into much of the adornment; - for close by are the famous slate-quarries, which have produced the - enormous sums expended on this erection. In order to shew what can - be done with slate, various articles of furniture are placed in the - rooms occupying the places usually filled by carved wood and marble; - chimney-pieces and tables of polished slate are seen, but the great - triumph is a bedstead, beautifully carved, which, though far from - elegant, is yet exceedingly curious. - - “The library and drawing-rooms are very fine, and have even a - comfortable appearance: all the house is gorgeously decorated, and - all its laboured splendour announces such immense riches, that it - seems as though the gnomes who work gold and silver in the - neighbouring hills had all been made slaves of some potent lamp or - ring, and had worked incessantly for years in the construction and - adornment of the most gigantic mass of architecture that ever was - beheld. There are, however, very few specimens of the higher order - of art; a few portraits are to be found in one room, which are - curious. In particular I was struck with a likeness of the - celebrated Anne Clifford, of Cumberland, when a child: she is dressed - in a stiff black dress, all over buttons and ornaments, and from - under her arm peeps a hideous little dog. As, in her memoirs, she - dwells a good deal on her own beauty, one cannot but smile at this - comment on her vanity, for, unless the artist did her great - injustice, she must have been a singularly ugly child. Two portraits - of the Countess of Derby are remarkable: one has a child’s doll lying - on a table near her, and in the other she is represented holding a - feather fan, and covered and half smothered with elaborate ruffs - which seem to bristle up in every part of her attire. - - “The famous hirlas horn, belonging to an ancient Cambrian prince, the - treasure of the castle, we had not an opportunity of seeing, as we - found it was carefully locked up from public view. It held the same - place as the Saxon wassail bowl, and it was customary that those who - had the honour of drinking from it should empty the horn at one - draught, and then blow it, to prove that they had performed the feat - expected of them. One of the most picturesque objects on the way to - the famous slate quarries, is the little mill of Coet Mor, whose - wheel is turned by a rushing stream breaking wildly over heaps of - rocks. - - “The slate quarries of Penrhyn are situated near Nant Ffrancon, at a - spot called Cae Braich-y-Cefn, and are exceedingly curious, and even - picturesque. We were conducted over them by a very loquacious - Irishman, the only person of his nation employed in the works, all - the others being Welsh. - - “Most of these places, where enormous labour produces enormous - wealth, are to me displeasing to contemplate; but there is nothing - here that conveys an idea of over-tasked workmen, no horrible - underground toil and dark dungeon-like caves, where human creatures - are condemned, like souls in penance for some hideous crime, to drag - heavy weights and chains through frightful chasms, and delve and dig - for ore in spaces not large enough for them to stand upright; here - are no deadly vapours, no fatal gases mortal to humanity, all is wide - and open in the pure light of day, high, and broad, and healthy. The - mountain is cut into ridges of slate, and here and there the - projecting edges have formed themselves into graceful shapes: in the - very centre of the quarry rises a beautiful conical pillar of slate - which the admiration of the workmen has spared, now that their - labours have brought it to the shape which it bears. It is a great - ornament to the area, and it is to be regretted that in time it must - fall, as the slate of which it is composed happens to be of the - purest kind. The huts of the workmen scattered over the quarry have - a singular effect, and the wild aspect of the men accords well with - their abodes. The thundering sound produced by the occasional - blasting of the rock is very grand, as it rolls and echoes amongst - the caves, and along the heights; and the grey masses glowing in the - sun, and reflecting the sky through their rents, have an imposing - aspect.” - -In July, 1844, the King of Saxony made a tour through England and Wales; -a narrative of which, written by His Majesty’s Physician, Dr. Carus, has -been published in the present year (1846). From that journal of the -royal travels, we extract the subjoined passages—which may serve to show -the impressions made upon the mind of an intelligent though somewhat -prejudiced foreigner, by the more striking objects of interest in this -locality. - - “As the road approaches Bangor, it runs near the sea, and brings us - close to the end of one of the most extraordinary structures of - modern times—the vast iron suspension bridge which forms the junction - between the mainland and the island, universally known and celebrated - as the Menai Bridge. - - “The drivers were ordered to stop, and we dismounted, in order to - pass over and examine this splendid work, and endeavour to gain as - accurate an idea as possible of its nature and size. The coasts of - Wales and Anglesea at both sides of the strait, are rocky, and about - 100 feet high, and the breadth of the channel by which they are - separated, is about 1600 feet. The object was to connect the two - coasts by a bridge, and it has been fully attained. Two very stout - columns of solid masonry are built in the water, one on each side, - over the summits of which are stretched the immense chains, from - which the bridge itself is suspended. The channel between the - columns is about 600 feet wide, and over this stretches the - horizontal line of the road-way, which is supported and made fast by - means of about 800 strong iron rods. Each of the sixteen chains - which constitute the suspending power, is stated to be 1714 feet - long, and consists of large massive links, joined and bound together - by strong iron bolts. These chains pass over the tops of the - supporting columns, on moveable iron rollers of great strength, and - are thus in a condition readily to accommodate themselves to the - changes of temperature, without risk. The greatest difference in - length between the strongest summer heat and most intense winter - cold, is said to amount to sixteen inches. The work was begun under - the direction of Mr. Telford, in the year 1819, and finished in 1826. - Such is the general idea of the whole structure. When seen from the - side, it is very difficult immediately to form a notion of the - magnitude of the work; and besides, the simplicity of the outline - gives at first an impression of very moderate extent. The feeling is - very much the same as that with which strangers are impressed on the - first view of St. Peter’s in Rome. They find it extremely difficult - to believe that a structure of such magnitude is before them. And as - the banks on both sides are very uniform, it requires to be compared - with some other object—such as that of a large ship sailing through - beneath, in order to gain a correct notion of its real magnitude. On - viewing the bridge, and passing over it, through its long uniform - alleys of ever-recurring iron rods, another observation forced itself - upon my mind. This immense work, which in all its parts is regulated - by the principle of utility, is totally deficient in all the charms - of beauty. It cuts the landscape like a black uniform line, concave - on one side, and perfectly horizontal on the other; and when viewed - closely, the columns by which the bridge is supported, are wholly - destitute of every description of architectural or sculptural - ornament. Those perpetually recurring iron rods, which follow one - another in monotonous rows, only serve to suggest the feeling of - despair to which a painter must be reduced in any attempt to - delineate the structure, and to give any thing like an accurate - drawing of this tedious iron lattice-road. True, it may be very - difficult to combine the demands of taste with the strict principles - of utility in such an undertaking, where the grand object is - strength. There is, properly speaking, a genuine English, dry, - pedantic character usually exhibited in such structures as this. - And, after all, what style should art here apply in order to - introduce the charms of beauty into a work of this character? - Neither the Egyptian nor Grecian style is at all appropriate to works - in iron—the Gothic is quite as little applicable to such a - purpose—and I have already remarked that in addition to these three, - there can be as little pretension to introduce a fourth, really - distinct from them, as to add a new kingdom to those of the - recognised mineral, animal, and vegetable ones. This makes the task - of the architect a very difficult one to accomplish. It is for them - to see how the difficulty is to be met. - - “Having passed over the bridge to the Anglesea side, we descended to - the shore, and took a boat, in order to have a view of this immense - structure from beneath. By far the clearest idea of the vastness of - the work is thus obtained, by viewing it from the green sea, which - flows beneath with a gentle southerly current; the true magnitude and - proportions of the bridge are then most deeply impressed upon the - mind; but even here, no idea of beauty is suggested. Other bridges, - with their various arches and ornamental buttresses, may, and - frequently do present objects of great beauty to the eye. This, - however, is, and must always remain, a great _mathematical figure_. - - “After having thus examined the bridge from all parts of the river, - we descended into the vast cavern on the Anglesea side, in which the - ends of the chains are made fast in the rocks far under ground. The - whole is planned with great ingenuity and skill. The rock, which - forms the resisting power, is armed, as it were, with huge masses of - iron, containing deep mortices, into which the bolts that bind the - ends of the chains are made fast. - - “In this manner, therefore, the sixteen powerful chains are fastened - in the deep rocks on both sides of the strait; and assuredly, no - human power or weight can be well conceived sufficient to tear them - from the depth in which they are anchored. Even the long Macadamized - bridge itself presents such a degree of stability, as to be very - little moved by the carriages which pass over its surface.” - - * * * * - - “On the morning of the 13th, (July, 1844,) the birthday of my dear - mother, I enjoyed a beautiful view of the little port of Bangor, from - the garden terrace of the hotel, from which a view is obtained of the - northern opening of the Menai Strait, of the bay of Beaumaris, and - the more distant mountains of Wales. The weather, too, was tolerably - fine in the morning; but at the time of our departure it had become - cloudy, and it was raining hard when we arrived at the remarkable and - extensive Penrhyn slate quarries, which are of great importance to - the whole of Wales. They are situated about six miles to the N.E. of - Bangor, on the slope of the hill, and have been particularly rich and - productive for the last fifty years. When one arrives at this quarry - from below, it presents the appearance almost of a crater open - towards the front, along the lips of which, twelve or fourteen - terraces run, one above another, each of which is from forty-five to - fifty feet high, and upon which the works of blasting and digging are - carried on by about 2000 workmen. The stone is of a reddish-brown; - sometimes, also, greyish slate, of fine grain, which splits well into - plates, and takes a fine polish. The mass never contains organic - remains, but is frequently traversed by strata of quarry or - limestone, in which crystals of some metals, principally copper and - iron, occur. - - “The manner in which these quarries are worked is the following. On - the galleries, or terraces, large masses of slate are first detached - by means of powder, and then roughly hewn into shape. There are laid - along each of these terraces tram-roads formed of rails loosely laid - down, upon which the masses of slate, in waggons with suitable - wheels, are thrust along by men to the little houses situated on the - declivity of the mountain, at the extremities of the galleries. Here - they are split into smaller plates; and it is curious to observe how - regularly the slate splits into fine and still finer plates, down to - the thickness of three or four lines. Several pieces are allowed to - retain a thickness of an inch or an inch and a half, and are used for - tables and flagstones, the thinner ones for covering roofs, &c. The - manner, too, in which they are squared, being cut out at once by a - sort of hatchet, according to a line made by means of a ruler, is - very curious. The plates thus formed are distinguished by very - amusing names. Thus the largest are called _queens_, the next - _princesses_, then _duchesses_, _ladies_, and so on. The enormous - quantity of slate produced may be estimated from the facts, that a - railway has been constructed specially from these quarries to Penrhyn - harbour, at an expense of £170,000, which _every week_ takes down - between 500 and 600 tons, or about 12,000 cwt. of slate; and that the - yearly net produce has sometimes brought in as much as £60,000 to the - owner of the quarry, the Hon. Douglas Pennant. - - “The quarrying itself is attended with considerable danger. The - workmen, when a portion of the rock is to be blasted from the upper - part of a gallery, are obliged to bore the hole, suspended in mid-air - by ropes, to load the hole so bored, to set fire to the match, and - then to place themselves beyond the reach of the explosion. They are - also exposed to the chance of accidents from the falling of portions - of the sharp slate; and it was carious, even yesterday—on which, - being pay-day, the work was not regularly going on—to hear now and - then the explosion of the blasting of some part of the rock, at the - same time that it was almost difficult to pass along the galleries, - without falling over the little railways or some of the sharp pieces - of stone. The manner in which Queen Victoria was received here, on - her visit some years ago, must have produced a curious effect. As - soon as she arrived, 1300 explosions were heard from all parts of the - quarry, having been all previously prepared for this purpose. After - having (the greater part of the time in the rain) inspected all the - parts of this immense quarry, and, besides, a saw-mill, for cutting - up the thicker plates of the slate, we returned towards Bangor, and - visited Penrhyn Castle, the property of the Hon. D. Pennant. In - olden times, a castle belonging to Roderic Molwynog, grandson of - Cadwallader, stood on this spot. It was rebuilt in the time of Henry - the Sixth, and has been quite lately renewed (under the direction of - a London architect, of the name of Hopper) by the father-in-law of - the present possessor. It is a remarkable and splendid building, - such as could only be completed with a revenue like that proceeding - from the quarries. - - “On entering the park, the castle is seen on a wooded height, grey, - like Windsor, with large towers and high turrets, without any - apparent roof, quite like an old fortress. Through the castle-gate - we entered the court-yard, ornamented in the Norman style: but this - style is much more splendidly and grandly exhibited in the - entrance-hall, from whence staircases conduct to the upper rooms. - Every thing here is in the Saxon style of building; the columns with - their curious ornaments, and the upper parts covered with arabesques. - Tall stone candelabra and a splendid chimney-piece, all in the same - style, increase the magnificent appearance of the hall; the windows - with their round arches are filled with stained glass; the staircase - winds over arches supported on columns, and beside Norman statues; in - a word, the whole sight is grand and imposing. The internal - arrangements of the whole place, the drawing and dining rooms, the - library, the bed-rooms, are all on a similar scale of magnificence; - several wainscotted with beautiful carved oak: the furniture and beds - all harmonising with the prevailing style of the building. We - remarked a curious object in the state bed-room (almost all such - castles appear to have such a state room, with a bed in it); namely, - a bed, of which the whole of the bedstead and the posts which - supported the canopy were made of the finest black slate, beautifully - polished and manufactured. This reference to the principal - foundation of the wealth of the possessor, appeared to me to show his - gratitude rather than his taste. It may easily be supposed, however, - that other curious objects were to be seen here; among these, we were - shewn one of those curious drinking horns, formerly general in this - district, as also in Scandinavia. I was sorry that we entirely lost - the view from the continued rain; for this view, both towards the sea - and towards the mountains, must be of a very splendid description.” - - - -BANGOR IS-Y-COED, -(_Flintshire_.) - -Chester 13 -Ellesmere 8 -Holt 7 -Overton 3 -Whitchurch 10½ -Wrexham 5 - -Bangor Is-y-coed stands in a detached part of the country, on the banks -of the Dee, over which is a good stone bridge of five arches, from the -vicinity of which a beautiful landscape is presented. This place is -celebrated as the site of the most ancient monastery in Britain, founded, -as old writers assert, by Lucius, the son of Coel, and first Christian -king of Britain, prior to the year 180. Lucius formed it into a -university, for the increase of learning, and the preservation of the -Christian faith in this realm; and it produced many learned men even in -that early age. At the arrival of Augustine about 596, on a mission from -Pope Gregory I. to convert the English Saxons to Christianity, this -monastery appears to have been in a very flourishing state. The monks at -Bangor were independent of the Romish church; and in a conference between -St. Augustine and its governors, the imperious missionary demanded of -them that they should keep the feast of Easter at the same time that the -Papists did; that they should administer baptism according to the -ceremonies of the church of Rome; and “preach the word of life with him -and his fellows.” In other things, he said, they would be allowed to -retain their ancient customs, insolently concluding, that “if they would -not accept of peace with their brethren, they should receive war from -their enemies.” They refused obedience to his injunctions, and -resolutely maintained the original rites of their church. Shortly after -this period followed the dreadful massacre of the monks of Bangor. - -Not long after this event, the monastery became neglected, and went -entirely to decay. William of Malmsbury, who lived shortly after the -Norman conquest, asserts, that even in his time, there remained only some -relics of its ancient magnificence: there were, he says, so many ruined -churches and such immense heaps of rubbish, as were not elsewhere to be -found. Leland says of it, in the time of Henry the Seventh, that its -site was in a fertile valley on the south side of the Dee; but that the -river having since changed its course, then ran through the middle of the -ground on which it stood. The extent of its walls, he affirms, was equal -to that of the walls round a town; and the two gates, the names of which -had been handed down by tradition, had been half a mile asunder. Within -the memory of persons then living, the bones of the monks, and pieces of -their clothes, had been ploughed up, in the cultivation of the ground. - - - -BARMOUTH OR ABERMAW, -(_Merionethshire_.) - -Aberdovey 16 -Dolgelley 10 -Harlech 10 -London 225 -Towyn 12 - -The town of Barmouth is seated near the bottom of some high mountains, -many of the houses being built on the steep sides; and viewed from the -sea, it resembles a fortress of some strength, hanging immediately over -the sands. The town stands near to the sea, at the mouth of the Maw or -Mawddach, and takes its name of Barmouth, i.e. Abermaw or Mawddach, from -that circumstance. At high water, the tide here forms a bay above a mile -over, but the entrance is rather hazardous, on account of the sand-banks. -This is the only port of Merionethshire, but its commerce is not very -extensive. The chief manufactures are flannels and woollen stockings; -and of these Mr. Pennant observed sixty years ago, that £40,000 worth of -the former have been exported in a year, and £10,000 worth of stockings. - -The parish church is distant about a mile and a half from the town, but -in 1830 a chapel of ease was opened here for Divine service, which is -principally performed in English. A national school has recently been -erected at the outskirts of the town, on the Harlech road, from an -excellent design by Mr. Jones, of Chester. There are also chapels in the -town occupied by the Wesleyans, the Calvinists, and Independents. - -The town is generally well filled with fashionable bathers in the summer -season, for whose convenience, accommodation, and amusement, the -inhabitants have made ample provision. There are two excellent inns: the -Cors-y-gedol Arms, where post chaises and cars, as well as guides to -Coder Idris, and the lakes and waterfalls, may be obtained; and also the -Commercial Inn, with stabling and coach-houses. During the summer -months, stage-coaches leave and arrive every day in the week, except -Sunday, from different places, including Liverpool, Shrewsbury, and -Caernarvon. There is a mail every day to and from the latter place, -passing through Harlech, Tan-y-bwlch, Tremadoc, and Beddgelert. A -four-horse mail-coach between Chester and Barmouth has lately commenced -running daily. There are several good shops; and for the accommodation -of visitors, circulating libraries have been established. Here, also, -are two baths, a billiard-room, and a bowling-green. The lodging houses -are excellent. The town, and the turnpike-roads throughout the district, -have lately been greatly improved, and are still improving. The -population is about 2000. - -“The beach,” says Mr. Bingley, “is one of the most delightful walks I -ever beheld. The wide river Mawddach winds among the mountains, forming -many and elegant promontories. These rise to great heights on each side, -some clad with wood, and others exhibiting their naked rocks, scantily -covered with purple heath. The summit of the lofty Cader Idris is seen -to rise above the other mountains, in the back ground.” From Barmouth a -delightful excursion may be made along the banks of the Maw, or in a boat -up the river, for about eight miles. The beach also affords a beautiful -drive of six miles. From this place a projecting causeway, called -Sarn-Badric, runs 15 miles into the sea, which tradition says, though her -evidence alone is but slight authority, once surrounded one hundred -cities. The upper part is perceptible at low water. - -In the neighbourhood of Barmouth are several gentlemen’s mansions and -other pretty residences, of which Bryntirion, the property of Charles -Henry Harford, Esq., was the most beautiful: it was destroyed by fire -about the latter end of 1840, and has not yet been rebuilt. - -The Rev. Mr. Newell, in his Scenery of Wales, observes that while at -Cors-y-gedol Arms, at Barmouth, he was introduced to a Welsh harper, -whose performance he did not seem much to admire. Mr. Newell then adds, -“It is a curious circumstance that we owe Gray’s Bard to a Welsh -harper—blind Parry, Sir W. W. Wynn’s harper. In a letter from Cambridge, -Gray says:—‘Mr. Parry has been here, and scratched out such ravishing -blind harmony, such tones of a thousand years old, with names enough to -choke you, as have set all this learned body a dancing, and inspired them -with due respect for my old bard, his countryman, whenever he shall -appear. Mr. Parry, you must know, has set my ode in motion again, and -has brought it at last to a conclusion.’” - -The angling stations are, Arthog Chapel, three miles distant, and Llyn -Bodlyn, four miles from Barmouth; Llyn Irddin and Llyn Geirw, near to the -town; and Llyn Raithlyn, in the neighbourhood of Traws-fynydd. - - - -BEAUMARIS, -(_Anglesea_.) - -Amlwch 17 -Bangor, by the bridge 6½ -Caernarvon 12 -Conway 14½ -Holyhead 27 -London, by Chester 258 -— by Shrewsbury 243 -Mona 14 -Snowdon 12 - -Beaumaris, a most respectable and well-built town, in Anglesea, is a -corporate borough, where the assizes for that county are held. The town -and liberties are included in the parishes of Llandegvan and Llanvaes: -the whole occupying a district nearly semi-circular in form, and -presenting to the Menai a bold rocky cliff of three miles, and an -indented beach of more than two. This place, like many others on the -Welsh coast, has lately become a most fashionable resort for bathing -visitors, for which it is admirably adapted, the sands being firm and the -water clear. In 1805, hot baths were erected here, and accommodations of -the first class abound. - -The church, formerly called “the Chauntry of our Lady of Beaumaris,” is -considered as a chapel of ease to Llandegvan. It is situated on an -eminence in the centre of the town, and consists of a nave, isles, and -chancel, covered with lead, and embrasured; having a ring of six bells, a -clock, and an organ, all the gift of the late Lord Bulkeley. In the -chancel is a beautiful monument of a knight and his lady, in white -alabaster, recumbent on an altar-tomb. Mr. Llwyd says, they represent -Sir Richard Bulkeley and his lady; the former was appointed Chamberlain -of North Wales, and was in great favour with Queen Elizabeth. In the -church, a white marble monument, executed by Westmacott, in memory of the -late Lord Bulkeley, who died June 3, 1822, stands on the left side of the -altar: this beautiful piece of sculpture represents Faith directing the -view of the dejected widow towards the bust of her husband and to heaven. -Also a beautiful monument of a female kneeling in an attitude of -devotion, on a pedestal, by Ternouth, to the memory of Charlotte Mary, -first wife of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley, Bart., and daughter of Lord -Dinorben. There is likewise a tablet to the memory of David Hughes, -erected in 1812, by some persons who had been educated in the Free School -of which he was the founder. There are also several other monuments and -tablets, but not possessing any peculiar attraction. On a plain stone -near the east entrance into the church is the following quaint -inscription to the memory of Meredith Davies:— - - Who has been our parish clerk - Full one and thirty years, I say, - Must here, alas! lie in the dark - Bemoaned for ever and for aye. - -Near to the church is the Free School, founded in 1603, by David Hughes, -Esq., who also endowed alms-houses for six poor persons, to whom he -granted annuities; the late Lord Bulkeley added four to this number; they -are situated about a mile from the town, near the entrance of Baron Hill -Park. Near the castle are the shire hall, and other suitable offices, -where the assizes are held. The town-hall is a good building, comprising -the assembly-room and a suite of civic apartments. A custom-house and a -national school are also included among the public institutions of -Beaumaris. - -The Williams Bulkeley Arms Hotel is a magnificent establishment, and most -admirably conducted. The Commercial and Liverpool Arms Inns are also -houses where good accommodation may be had. The market-days are -Wednesday and Saturday. Population, 2299. - -Beaumaris enjoys a most beautiful and sublime prospect, with the -distinguishing peculiarity, that the eye at the same time rests on a -noble expanse of the ocean, and an extensive range of some of the -loftiest mountains in Wales. A grander or more interesting scene it is -impossible to imagine. From the spacious piece of ground called the -Green, which, landward, is enclosed by the hotel, a splendid range of -houses called Victoria Terrace, and the old Castle, this enchanting view -is seen to the best advantage; seaward, at full tide, it presents to the -eye an infinite variety, in numbers of trading vessels, yachts, and -smaller pleasure boats, constantly passing close to the beach, whilst at -low water the sands afford many delightful and extensive drives. - - “Ever charming, ever new, - When will the landscape tire the view?” - - - -The Castle. - - -Beaumaris castle was the last of the three great fortresses erected by -Edward the First, to hold in awe his new and unwilling subjects on both -sides the Menai. For this purpose he fixed upon a flat near the water -side, with the view of surrounding it with a fosse, for the double -purpose of defence, and bringing small craft to unload their cargoes -under its walls; part of which canal, called the Llyn-y-Green, was till -lately remaining; and the large iron ring, to which the vessels were -fastened, is still in its place at the great east gate. - -Within the present ruins of the castle is an area or square, of 190 feet, -with obtuse corners; on the right is the chapel, an admirable piece of -masonry, and the only entire room in all Edward’s buildings; its stone -arched roof having saved it at the general dilapidation. Opposite to the -south-east entrance is the great hall, 70 feet long and 23 broad, with a -range of five elegant windows, and forming a front (its turreted angles -excepted) that has rather a modern appearance; and though, upon the -whole, a fortress of prodigious magnitude, yet its low situation, and the -great diameter of its Moorish towers, cause its ample proportions to -appear of less height and extent than is really the case. This castle is -reputed to be the scene of the massacre of the bards by Edward the First, -who does not appear to have felt secure in his newly-acquired dominions -so long as this influential order remained to raise the song and string -the lyre to deeds of patriotic resistance. The same system of -persecution seems to have been acted upon after the death of the -bardicide; for in the reign of Henry the Fourth, Rhŷs Gôch, speaking of -Gruffydd Llwyd, says— - - “The best of bards is interdicted.” - -Within the area of this ancient castle, in the month of August, 1832, was -held a splendid Congress of Bards, or Eisteddfod, under the munificent -patronage of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley. It was attended by most of the -nobility and gentry of the neighbouring counties; and the meeting derived -peculiar importance from the presence of Her Royal Highness the Duchess -of Kent, and her illustrious daughter, then Princess Victoria, now the -Queen of these realms. During several months of that summer, the royal -party had honoured the Principality with their residence, fixing their -domicile for the time at Plâs Newydd, the elegant seat of the Marquis of -Anglesea. A grand regatta in the bay followed the literary and musical -contests in the castle; and the evenings were agreeably enlivened with -splendid concerts, balls, and other festivities. - - -Baron Hill. - - -On an eminence behind the town stands this charming residence of the late -Lord Bulkeley. At his death, it descended to his nephew, Sir R. B. W. -Bulkeley, Bart. M.P., by whom it is now occupied. It has recently been -rebuilt and modernised, and is delightfully situated on the declivity of -a richly-wooded hill, commanding a fine prospect of all the northern -mountains of Caernarvonshire, of the bay of Beaumaris, and a vast expanse -of sea. This place has been in possession of the Bulkeley family from -the date of the second charter of the corporation of Beaumaris, procured -in the reign of Elizabeth. The house was originally built in the reign -of James I., for the reception of Henry, the eldest son of that monarch, -when on his way to Ireland. But his untimely death so much affected Sir -Richard Bulkeley, the owner, that he gave up his original and magnificent -plan, and used the part only that was then completed for his family seat. -The old house was greatly enlarged and improved by its late noble -possessor. The extensive grounds are finely wooded, and laid out with -great taste and judgment. The gardens have been extended and beautified, -and the liberal owner generously allows them to be thrown open for the -accommodation of the public. Sir R. Bulkeley is deservedly esteemed for -his efforts to improve the agriculture of his native county, by the -introduction of modern and scientific culture. - -At a short distance east of the house, in a sylvan recess, is the stone -coffin of the Princess Joan, consort of Llywelyn ab Iorwerth, Prince of -Wales in 1105. It had originally been deposited in the subjacent -monastery of Llanvaes, and, on the dissolution of that religions -establishment, was placed to receive a watering brook, like that of -Richard III. at Leicester, after the fatal battle of Bosworth field. In -1812 it was discovered, in its ignoble uses, by Mr. R. Llwyd, author of -Beaumaris Bay, after being lost for 290 years, when it was removed to its -present situation by the late Lord Bulkeley. - -A few hundred yards distant from Baron Hill is Henllys Lodge, the -residence of Captain Lewis Hampton, containing a valuable collection of -curiosities, which any respectable person is at liberty to inspect. -Contiguous to it is The Fryars, the residence of the late Lady Williams, -relict of the late Sir R. Williams, Bart., of Nant, Caernarvonshire, and -mother of Sir R. W. Bulkeley, Bart. - -Six miles from Beaumaris is the village of PENTRAETH, delightfully -situated in the vicinity of Red Wharf. Near it are the mansions of -Plâs-gwyn, the seat of Lord Vivian, who married Miss Panton, the heiress -and grand daughter of the late Jones Panton, Esq., and thus became -possessed of this fine property, which he has greatly unproved; Rhiwlas, -the seat of the Rev. Gethin Williams; and Red Hill, the seat of — -Sparrow, Esq. The neighbourhood is worthy of a visit, being the direct -road to Amlwch. - -The church at Pentraeth was thought worthy of an engraving by Mr. Grose, -the antiquary. The Panton Arms is a good country house of entertainment. -Not far from Pentraeth, and near the sea-side, is Tre’r Castell, formerly -the residence of Marchudd, founder of one of the royal tribes of Wales. -It is now an ancient castellated mansion. It was also the residence of -Sir Tudor ap Goronwy, who did homage to Edward the second, when Prince of -Wales, at Chester. On this domain is supposed to have been fought, in -818, the “sore battle of Llanfaes,” between Egbert, King of the Welsh -Saxons, and Merfyn Frych, King of Wales. From this place Queen Elisabeth -received annually a large supply of metheglin or mead, a favourite Welsh -beverage. Close by is Castell Aber Lleiniog, where are the vestiges of -an ancient fort, founded by Hugh Lupus and the Earl Hugh of Shrewsbury, -when they took possession of Anglesea. The neighbourhood, in fact, is -rich in scenic beauty and historical associations. - - -Beaumaris Bay, - - -Which stretches itself before and on each side of the town forms a -well-sheltered harbour, and in stormy weather affords security to vessels -of considerable burthen. The depth of the water near the town is six or -seven fathoms even when the tide is out; but this deep channel scarcely -extends more than a quarter of a mile in width. All the rest of the bay, -for several miles, is left dry at low water, and has the name of Lavan -Sands. Among the intelligent natives an opinion is prevalent that these -sands once formed a habitable hundred of Caernarvonshire, and were first -overflowed during the sixth century. - -The sea of the Menai occasionally produces very singular fish. That -called the Beaumaris Shark sometimes appears; a curious species of -mussel; and creatures of forms that astonish the fishermen;— - - “Strange things come up, to look at them, - The monsters of the deep.” - -This may perhaps account for the marvellous legend, preserved in “The -Triads of the Isle of Britain,” concerning “the Palug Cat of the Menai.” -A remarkable whale was captured in this Bay in the spring of 1846, and -sent to Liverpool for exhibition. The whole shore throughout the -district is said to be “a mine of fish.” - - -Llanvaes Abbey. - - -About a mile from Beaumaris, near the seat of the widow of late Sir -Robert Williams, Bart., and not far from the shore, are yet to be seen, -in the walls of a barn, the poor remains of the house of Franciscan -friars, founded in the thirteenth century by Llywelyn ab Iorwerth, Prince -of Wales, still called by the above name. At the dissolution, the -establishment maintained eight friars, of whom two only were allowed to -be Welshmen, when the convent and its possessions were sold: they are at -present the property of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley. - - -Penmon Priory. - - -Two miles north of Llanvaes Friary, stands this ancient and decayed ruin, -consisting at present of little more than the ruinous refectory and part -of the church. This was a priory of Benedictine monks, dedicated to St. -Mary, founded in the sixth century, and re-endowed in the thirteenth by -Llywelyn ab Iorwerth. At its suppression by Henry the Eighth, the -revenues were valued at £48 per annum. - - -Priestholm, or Puffin Island, - - -A small island, divided by the narrow channel called the Sound from the -eastern extremity of Anglesea: its British name, Ynys Seriol, is derived -from the residence of St. Seriol upon it in the sixth century: the -compound name of Priest-holm originated in its being the occasional -retreat of the religious of the neighbouring priory of Penmon. It is -also called Puffin Island, from its being annually resorted to by these -birds for the purpose of breeding. - -This island will afford a day of sport to the disciple of Colonel -Hawker—or of information to the industrious antiquary—or amusement to a -pic-nic party; and indeed, to all visitors in search of health, pleasure, -or the picturesque, who may be sojourning at Beaumaris. It is nearly a -mile from the shore, to the edge of which it slopes in verdant turf on -each side from its lofty central eminence. In shape it resembles a -lemon, extending a mile in length and half a mile in breadth. Near the -centre are the ruins of an old square tower, supposed to have been a -portion of a religious house, once subordinate to the priory of Penmon; -which, from “the odour of sanctity” thrown around it by popular -tradition, attracted many devotees, and penitents, and dying persons, to -its sacred shrine, either as the subjects of pilgrimage or prayer, or to -obtain interment within its holy walls. Giraldus says, “the island was -inhabited by hermits, living by manual labour and serving God.” The -superior reputation which this monastery enjoyed, induced the Welsh -princes, Llywelyn and David, and (after the conquest of the country) -Edward the First, to grant to it the revenues of Penmon. Prince Owen -Gwynedd, who lies buried here, was the founder; and its sanctuary became -the refuge at once of the oppressor and the oppressed, in that lawless -age to which it belonged. Little remains to attest the presence of the -crowds of devout men that thronged it, or of the noble, the wealthy, or -of the poor, that once were interred in its consecrated cemetery. A -colony of rabbits has usurped their territory; and swarms of cormorants, -stormy petrels, curlews, and _puffin auks_, and, even though but -comparatively seldom seen, peregrine falcons hasten to these shores in -the summer months, to breed and nurture their young. There is a small -house on the island for the man who attends a signal staff erected here -in 1826, to form part of the telegraphic communication between Liverpool -and Holyhead. - -A pleasant aquatic excursion may he made from Garth Point to Puffin -Island, passing through the picturesque bay of Beaumaris, the distance -being nine miles. - -A melancholy interest attaches to this neighbourhood from a most -calamitous event which occurred in the bay of Beaumaris, on the night of -the 17th August, 1831. On the morning of that day, the _Rothsay Castle_ -steamer left the pier-head, Liverpool, for Beaumaris, the number of -passengers and seamen being between 120 and 140 souls. After passing the -floating light, stationed about 15 miles from Liverpool, the sea became -very rough and the wind adverse; and some of the passengers, apprehensive -of danger, in vain urged the captain, Lieutenant Atkinson, to return. -Between the Great and Little Ormeshead the vessel was beating about for -three hours, and soon after passing the latter, night had come on, the -sea running high, and the tide ebbing. It was near twelve o’clock when -she arrived at the mouth of the Menai Strait, about five miles from -Beaumaris. When opposite the tower on Puffin Island, suddenly the steam -got so low that the engine would not keep the vessel on her proper -course; and she struck on what is called the spit of the Dutchman’s Bank, -where she remained immovable till she went to pieces. At least one -hundred persons are known to have perished, and twenty-one were -ascertained to be saved. - -A strict investigation into the causes of this dreadful calamity was -subsequently instituted, from which it appeared that the vessel itself -was unfit for the station; that there were no guns on board to make -signals of distress; that the captain and mate were in a state of -intoxication during the time of peril; that there had been great -mismanagement and obstinacy on the part of the former, and criminal -negligence in omitting to furnish the vessel with necessary apparatus for -such an emergency. The most praiseworthy activity is ascribed to the -gentry and other inhabitants of Beaumaris, as well as the boatmen -belonging to the bay, in rescuing the surviving sufferers, and providing -places of decent sepulture for the dead. On this subject, the following -testimony, from the pen of Lieutenant Morrison, of the Royal Navy, who -has published a Narrative of the unfortunate wreck, is truly -valuable:—“The meritorious efforts made by Sir Richard Bulkeley, Bart. -and other gentlemen of the neighbourhood, to insure respect to the -remains of the unfortunate sufferers, I believe to have been attended -with perfect success. Indeed, I saw numerous valuable and portable -articles which had been saved, and lodged in the hands of the authorities -of Beaumaris, and which might have been very readily abstracted by the -finders, to whom they offered great temptation. I was never among the -inhabitant of North Wales before, and I must observe that the very -excellent conduct of the lower orders on this occasion forms a strong -contrast to that I have witnessed on the coasts of Devonshire and the -south of Ireland.” - -The many accidents in this bay at length induced the corporation of the -Trinity House to erect a lighthouse on the south-westerly point of the -island, at a part called Trwyn-du, or Black Point, which was finished in -the course of the summer of 1838. It is a splendid work of art in the -bell form; and contains more courses of masonry under low-water mark than -the celebrated Eddystone lighthouse. The light is thrown out to sea by -means of a strong reflector erected on the opposite or Anglesea coast. -It is worthy of attention, and visitors will find it a pleasant sail from -Bangor and Beaumaris. - -From April to October, first-class steam-packets regularly arrive from -Liverpool every afternoon (except Sunday) about five o’clock at the -Bangor Ferry inn (which has lately been much improved and enlarged), and -return the next morning between eight and nine o’clock, calling each way -at Garth Point and Beaumaris. And we may here add that this is the -cheapest and most interesting marine excursion which can be enjoyed from -Liverpool. - - - -BEDDGELERT, -(_Caernarvonshire_.) - -Aber-glaslyn 1½ -Caernarvon 13 -Llanberis 12 -Snowdon Summit 6 -Tan-y-Bwlch 10 -Tre-Madoc 7 - -Beddgelert, a village most charmingly situated in a beautiful tract of -meadows, at the junction of three vales, near the conflux of the Gwynnant -and the Colwyn. - -The church is erected on the site of an ancient priory of Augustine -monks, with which a convent for nuns was also incorporated. Part of the -arches and clustered columns which supported the nave of the priory are -still visible in the wall of the church, and there are other remains -which prove the original religious establishment to have been of -considerable extent. In 1194 it was endowed with lands by Llywelyn the -Great; and it is recorded that in those days the prior had fifty cows and -twenty-two sheep. In 1283 it suffered from fire, and Edward I. repaired -the damages. In 1535 Henry VIII. bestowed it on the abbey of Chertsey, -in Surrey; and in 1577 it was made appurtenant to that of Bisham, Berks. - -Moel Hebog (the Hawk Hill) rises boldly from the vale in front of the -village, which takes its name—Beddgelert, or the Grave of Gelert, from an -affecting tradition, which has been made the subject of an admirably -pathetic ballad by the Hon. W. R. Spencer. Miss Costello gives this -romantic legend with her wonted taste and effect:— - - “King John had given to Llywelyn the Great, not only his daughter - Joanna in marriage, but as a prize little inferior, a fine greyhound, - of superior breed and great beauty, who was wont to take the lead in - all his expeditions, and to bring down the game in gallant style. - The usual season of the chase arrived, and the prince, his wife, and - children had repaired to the hunting-ground in this valley: one day - Llywelyn set forth, and had not gone far when he discovered that - Gelert, his favourite hound, had lagged behind; he called him in - vain, and, out of temper and impatient, he continued his way, and - occupied himself in his sport, still, however, dwelling with vexation - on the absence of his constant companion. On his return, as he was - about to enter his dwelling, he was met by Gelert, who leaped upon - him and shewed every demonstration of delight. The prince angrily - drove him off, and, as he did so, remarked that the jaws of the dog - were covered with blood, that blood was on the floor and on the - walls—a strange foreboding of evil stole over his mind: his infant - son had been left in the cradle—no attendant was near—he tracked the - crimson stairs—they led him to the spot where his child reposed—the - cradle was overturned, the infant gone, and a pool of blood was at - his feet. - - “Llywelyn allowed himself not a moment’s time for reflection—Gelert - was fawning beside the couch of his murdered child—his fangs were red - with gore—he could not doubt but that the wretched animal had torn - the sleeping babe, and drawing his sword, he plunged it into the body - of the hound. At this instant he heard a cry—he darted forward, - removed the confused heap before him, and, struggling beneath, he - beheld his child uninjured, his tiny hands resting on the body of a - gaunt wolf, which had been killed by Gelert in his defence. - - “What was now left for Llywelyn but remorse and late repentance?—he - erected a tomb over the remains of the faithful dog, and the spot is - called ‘the Grave of Gelert’ to this day. - - “There is a Welsh adage which alludes to this legend, ‘he repents as - much as the man who killed the dog’—and this would naturally lead one - to imagine that the sad tale were indeed true; nevertheless, the same - is told in many places, and seems originally to have come from the - far East, where almost all beautiful stories had their birth. - - “It is said to be engraven on a rock in Limerick; it is told in an - old English romance; it is repeated in France; and it is the subject - of Persian drama!” - -Some chroniclers assert, that Prince Llywelyn founded the church of -Beddgelert to commemorate the preservation of his son, and as some -atonement for slaying his preserver, the faithful hound. - -In a field contiguous to the churchyard, is a large stone, which is said -to mark the spot where Gelert was buried. Near the stone is a building, -now used as a cow-house, which is reputed to have been the residence of -the prince. - -There is an excellent inn here, the Goat, recently enlarged and improved, -not inferior in accommodation to any in Wales. The Caernarvon and -Tan-y-Bwlch mail coach passes twice a day through the village. Behind -the old public house opposite is an interesting view of a solemn dell. -The eye, in surveying this chasm, is relieved now and then by spots of -verdure, patches of heath, thinly-scattered sheep, and the beautiful -curvature of the mountain. In the Welsh annals this region is styled the -Forest of Snowdon. A guide to the many objects of interest in the -locality may be procured at any time at the Goat inn. When Mr. Nicholson -traversed this part of the country, the name of the guide was William -Lloyd, who was also the village schoolmaster, and who thus explained his -occupation in a placard stuck upon the door of the inn:—“William Lloyd, -conductor to Snowdon, Moel Hebog, Dinas Emrys, Llanberis pass, the lakes, -waterfalls, &c. &c.” The name of the present guide is Richard Edwards. - -On the road towards Aber-glaslyn, a stone is pointed out by the name of -the Chair of Rhŷs Gôch o’r ’Ryri, the famous mountain bard, contemporary -with Owen Glyndwr. He was of the house of Havod-garegog, at the entrance -into the Traeth Mawr sands, whence he used to walk, and sitting on this -craggy seat, composed his poems. Among others is a satire on a fox, for -killing his favourite peacock. He died about the year 1490, and was -interred in the holy ground at Beddgelert, escaping the vengeance of the -English, for inspiring his countrymen with the love of liberty, and -animating them by his compositions into a long and gallant resistance to -the galling yoke. - -The neighbourhood of Beddgelert abounds with objects worthy of the -tourist’s attention; and of several of these we will now add a few -particulars. - - -Nant Gwynnant. - - -Turning to the right hand on crossing the bridge leading from the inn, -you follow up the course of a stream that waters one of the most -beautiful valleys in Wales. On the left, about half a mile up the -valley, is a lofty wood-clad rock, called Dinas Emrys, the fort of -Ambrosius, or Merlin Emrys, a magician who was sent for to this place -from Caer Merddin (Carmarthenshire) by Vortigern, who was king of Britain -from 449 to 466. It was to this place that Vortigern retired, when he -found himself despised by his subjects, and unable to contend longer with -the treacherous Saxons, whom he had introduced into his kingdom. It is -probable that this insular rock afforded him a temporary residence, till -be removed to his final retreat in Nant Gwrtheryn, or Vortigern’s Valley, -not far from Nevyn, in the promontory of Lleyn. Speed says that -Vortigern married his own child by Rowena, daughter of Hengist, the Saxon -prince, and had by her one son.—On passing round the foot of another -beautiful isolated rock, - - -Llyn Dinas - - -(The Pool of the Fort), a lake about a half to three-quarters of a mile -in extent, is spread before you. It is entirely surrounded by lofty -mountains, the tints of which being of a deeper and browner shade than -the generality of Welsh hills, gives a peculiar richness to the confined -valley. The road runs close along the shore, overhung by one of the -magnificent buttresses of Snowdon: to the right the eye stretches across -the lake to the hills which rise from the water’s edge, above which a -second tier of mountains appears, the great chain which separates you -from the vale of Ffestiniog. The river which feeds the lake winds -through the verdant and undulating grounds which spread themselves, a -miniature park, between the cottage and the lake. A romantic pass, -affording space for the river and road only, leads to a valley totally -different from, though not less beautiful than that of Llyn Dinas: the -valley forms a bowl among the hills, the bottom is a small grassy plain, -here and there dotted with trees, through which the river winds; the -sides are magnificent mountains: it is beauty sleeping in the lap of -terror.—On the left, the eye is led to - - -Cwm Llan, - - -among the deepest recesses of Snowdonia. The immediate boundary of the -valley is succeeded by heights rising successively above each other. -Immediately above this deep and gloomy gorge towers the monarch of hills, -sublime and terrific in his precipitous height, yet presenting in its -conical summit, its cairn and landmark, a graceful object, filling up the -mountainous gap, the sides of which form a suitable frame to this noble -picture. You follow up the course of the stream, through the same -enchanting scenery, the road gradually ascending, till you catch through -the plantations on the left a view of - - -Llyn Gwynnant, - - -stretched below at your feet. This lake and valley are deeply set among -the loftiest mountains of Wales or England, and form one of the loveliest -pictures in this country. Two or three gentlemen’s residences render -this valley cheerful, without destroying its character of seclusion. - -Shortly after leaving the lake, the most striking view of Snowdon -presents itself; you look across the valley on a huge precipice, over the -edge of which, through a wide sweeping dip in the hill, a very -picturesque waterfall, Rhaiadr cum Dyli, is projected. Plain indications -of its source, - - -Llyn Llydan, - - -a highly elevated mountain lake, are apparent; above this rises a dark -perpendicular wall of rock, towards the summit of which craggy and sharp -ridges run up, and at the junction the towering peak of Snowdon rises: -shortly after, you join the road from Capel Curig to Llanberis. Let no -inconvenience induce the tourist to relinquish this route. - -In the vale of Colwyn, and nearly two miles from Beddgelert, is a small -pool, about the size of a good horse-pond, called - - -Llyn-y-Dywarchen - - -(Or the Pool of the Sod), first celebrated by Giraldus Cambrensis, in the -account of his journey through Wales in the twelfth century, as -containing a floating island. This is still in existence, but not more -than eight or nine yards in length, and evidently appears to be a -detached piece of the turbery of which the bank is composed. There is a -small willow-tree growing upon it, and it is carried to and fro by the -action of the wind and water. Sometimes it remains near the side of the -pool for a considerable while, and it is so large and firm as to bear -cattle on it. When it has been dislodged by the wind, a few sheep have -often been borne by it to the other parts of the bank.—Within two miles -of Beddgelert is situated - - -Pont Aber-glaslyn - - -(Or the Bridge of the Conflux of the Blue Pool); it is also called by the -inhabitants the Devil’s Bridge; on which account it has sometimes been -confounded with the bridge of that name near Havod, in Cardiganshire. In -approaching this spot from Beddgelert, the rocks on each side become -incomparably grand. The road winds along a narrow stony vale, where the -huge cliffs so nearly approach as only just to leave width sufficient at -the bottom for the road, and the bed of the impetuous torrent that rolls -along the side of it. Here these lofty rocks, which oppose nothing to -the eye but a series of the rudest precipices, “raised tier on tier, high -piled from earth to heaven,” seem to forbid all further access, and to -frown defiance on the traveller. - -The bridge crosses the Glaslyn, and unites the counties of Merioneth and -Caernarvon. In the span it is thirty feet, and from the water to the -parapet forty feet high. There is excellent fishing in this river; it -abounds with salmon and trout. Some years ago, there was a noted salmon -leap a few yards above the bridge, and in the course of an hour, twenty -or thirty fish have been seen attempting to spring over the barrier, but -it is now broken down and fallen into decay. The salmon come up the -river in the latter end of the year, sometimes as early as the beginning -of October, in order to deposit their spawn on the sandy shallows, and -are here very plentiful. The fishery belongs to the Wynn family. When -the tourist has passed the bridge, and proceeded about one hundred yards -on the Tre-Madoc road, he will then see the view to perfection. The -elegant and venerable arch clothed with ivy—the foam of the little -waterfall almost beneath—the majestic rocks to the right, combining to -form one of the finest pictures in Wales. - -It was probably from this place that Giraldus Cambrensis asserted of -Merionethshire, that “it was the roughest and most dreary part of Wales, -for its mountains were both high and perpendicular, and in many places so -grouped together, that shepherds talking or quarreling on their tops, -could scarcely, in a whole day’s journey, come together.” - -There is very good fishing in this neighbourhood, at a lake called -Llyn-y-Dinas, about two miles from Beddgelert; the fish are good for the -table, of the weight of about half a pound; however, trouts of five or -six pounds weight have been taken. There are two boats kept by Robert -Roberts; the flat-bottomed one is considered the better and safer for -angling. Another lake appears, somewhat smaller, called Llyn Gwynnant, -which has been injured by being netted, but still affords fair sport for -the angler. - - - -BETTWS-Y-COED, -(_Caernarvonshire_.) - -Capel Curig 5 -Cerniogau Mawr 9½ -Llanrwst 4 - -Bettws-y-Coed (or Station in the Wood), a small village, pleasantly -situated on the Shrewsbury and Holyhead road, not far distant from the -junction of the Llugwy and the Conway. The church stands in a little -cemetery in the centre of the vale, enclosed by a few stately forest -trees, and forms a venerable and interesting object. It contains an old -monument in memory of Griffith, the son of David Gôch, who was a natural -son of David, brother to Llywelyn, the last prince of Wales. He died in -the fourteenth century, and is here represented by a large armed -recumbent figure in a recess in the north wall. On one side of the -figure, there is yet left this inscription,—“_Hic jacet Gruffydd ap Davyd -Gôch_: _Agnus Dei_, _misere mei_.” Within a mile distant is a bridge, -consisting of a single arch of iron, of 105 feet in the span, and called -the Waterloo Bridge from the circumstance of its having been erected in -the same year in which the battle of Waterloo was fought. It carries the -Holyhead road over the Conway. - -Near Bettws-y-Coed is also Pont-y-Pair, a most singular bridge, flung -over the Llugwy, consisting of four arches, placed on the rude rocks, -which form most durable piers. These rocks are precipitous, and in high -floods exhibit to the passenger most awful cataracts below the bridge. -The scenery beyond, composed of rocky mountains fringed with woods, is -very striking. The river Conway affords good salmon and trout fishing. -The remarkably picturesque character of this district is particularly -attractive to artists who delight to make sketches from scenes of natural -beauty and grandeur. - - - -CADER IDRIS, -(_Merionethshire_.) - -Dolgelley 5 -Dinas Mowddwy 11 -Machynlleth 13 -Towyn 15 - -These distances are computed from the summit of Cader Idris. - -The mountain of Cader Idris, in height the second in Wales, rises upon -the sea-shore, close upon the northern side of the estuary of the small -river Disynwy, about a mile from Towyn. It proceeds with almost a -constant ascent, first northward for about three miles, then for ten -miles further runs E. N. E., giving out from its summit a branch nearly -three miles long in a south-westerly direction, parallel to the main -ridge. It is very steep and craggy on every side, but the southern -descent, especially to the border of Tal-y-llyn lake, is the most -precipitous, being nearly perpendicular. Its breadth bears but a small -proportion to its length, a line passing along its base, and intersecting -the summit, would scarcely equal four miles and a half; and in the other -parts it is a mere ridge, whose base hardly ever exceeds one mile in -breadth. - -Cader Idris is the beginning of a chain of primitive mountains, extending -in a N. N. E. direction, and including the Arrans and Arrenigs. It is -much loftier and more craggy than the slate and secondary mountains which -surround it. Dolgelley is the place from which the ascent to this -mountain is usually made. - -Several tourists of literary eminence have made the ascent of Cader -Idris, and have left on record graphic and animated descriptions of the -sublime views which its summit discloses. Mr. Roscoe says—“The following -morning promising a fine day, I determined upon making an excursion over -Cader Idris. This mountain is one of the most lofty in Wales, and forms -a part of the great chain of hills which runs nearly parallel with the -coast for many miles, in connection with the Arrans and the Arrenigs, and -more inland, towards Corwen, with the Berwyn range. Proceeding over the -hill which leads to Towyn, I reached a small lake, and turning to the -left, commenced the ascent. After great labour for three or four hours, -and consequent fatigue, I reached the summit; and the pool Llyn-y-Cae -shewed itself, situated among high rocks, whose weather-beaten cliffs -overhang the water; but thick mists, wafted from the sea, prevented an -extended view. Mr. Aikin has enriched his narrative with a description -of this grand and picturesque scene he witnessed, the following extract -from which leaves nothing to be desired:—‘We were now above all the -eminences within a vast expanse, and as the clouds gradually cleared -away, caught some grand views of the surrounding country. The huge rocks -which we before looked up to with astonishment, were now far below our -feet, and many a small lake appeared in the valleys between them. To the -north, Snowdon and its dependencies shut up the scene; on the west, we -saw the whole curve of the bay of Cardigan, bounded at a great distance -by the Caernarvon mountains, and nearer, dashing its white breakers -against the rocky coast of Merioneth. The southern horizon was bounded -by Plinlimmon, the bay of Swansea, the channel, peeping through the -opening of the Brecon mountains; and on the east, the eye glanced over -the lake of Bala, the two Arrenig mountains, the two Arrans, and the long -chain of Berwyn mountains, to the Breiddin hills on the confines of -Shropshire. Dimly, in the distant horizon, was beheld the Wrekin, rising -alone from the plain of Salop.’ - -“At the foot of the mountain is the little village of Tal-y-Llyn, which -borrows its name from the church at the head of the lake, not unmeetly -denominated by the people ‘the Charming Retreat.’ The church, a simple -antique building, is dedicated to St. Mary. The parish extends about -eight miles, embracing in its circuit a large portion of the mountainous -chain. The whole vicinity, wood, and hill, and lake—stirred by the -winds, or clothed with the yellow hues of autumn—wore a highly -picturesque yet dreary aspect; and I took great delight in exploring a -number of bold, romantic streams and falls, all within the limits of this -interesting district. Tal-y-Llyn (the Head of the Lake), with its little -church, dedicated to St. Mary, stands at the west end of the pool, in a -long valley lying below the lofty ranges of Cader Idris. Looking -north-east, the vale is contracted by the mountain bases, with their -sides broken into a thousand crags, some sharp and conical, and others -overhanging, as if ready to fall upon the heedless traveller, who wends -his way beneath their shadows. Pen-y-Delyn (or the Harp Rock) is there, -bearing a resemblance in its figure to that instrument, with its indented -and perforated summit, ready to receive the first breath of the morning, -and to herald the rising beam of the great luminary with the fabled music -of Memnon; and Llam-y-Ladron too, (or the Thieves’ Leap), the Tarpeian -Rock from whose fearful top, it is said, the ancient Britons used to cast -their felon brethren.” - -Of the heights of Cader Idris, of Arran Vowddwy, and of the Arrenig Vawr, -says Mr. Pennant, I am enabled to give a very exact account, by the -assistance of the ingenious Mr. M. Hughes, of Bala, who assures me that -the Pen-y-Gader is 2858 feet above the level of Dolgelley-green; -Arran-Vowddwy, 740 above Llyntegid; and the Arrenig, only 20 yards short -of Arran; that the fall from the lake to Dolgelley-green, is 180 yards; -so that the real difference of height between the Cader and the Arran is -only thirty yards. Two graves, where human bodies were deposited, have -lately been discovered at the foot of Cader Idris, under two immense -carnedds. - -Within the last few years, for the accommodation of visitors, a cottage -has been erected on the summit of the mountain, by Richard Pugh, who -resides at Dolgelley, and who acts in the capacity of a guide. This has -proved of great advantage to visitors, who were not unfrequently assailed -by the teeming shower, without an opportunity of shelter; and who had no -spot for temporary refreshment while waiting for the dispersion of misty -clouds in order to enjoy the exquisite prospect. Here parties or -individuals may have all convenient refreshments. The road up the -mountain on the Dolgelley side has lately been much improved, so as to -enable ladies and gentlemen to ride up to the very top with the greatest -ease and safety, which cannot be done on the other side of the mountain -without great danger. The charge of the guide for conducting a party to -the summit is five shillings, and the same sum is paid for each of the -ponies employed in the ascent. - -For angling stations, see Dolgelley and Tal-y-Llyn. - - - -CAERGWRLE, -(_Flintshire_.) - -Chester 12 -Hawarden 6 -Mold 6 -Wrexham 5 - -Caergwrle was once a flourishing town, but has dwindled into an -insignificant village. Its parish church is about a mile distant. There -is good reason for believing that Caergwrle was a Roman station, probably -an outpost to Deva. Camden discovered here an hypocaust, hewn out of the -solid rock, six yards and a quarter long, five yards broad, and somewhat -more than half a yard in height. On some of the tiles were inscribed the -letters, “Legio xx.” which seem to denote the founders. This is further -corroborated by the name of the place, “Caer gawr lleng,” (the camp of -the great legion), Cawr lleng being the name by which the Britons -distinguished the twentieth legion. - -The castle stood on the summit of a high rock. Its present remains are -very inconsiderable; they are, however, sufficient to indicate that it -never could have been a fortress of any great importance. - - -Hope, {73} or Queen’s Hope, - - -Is an inconsiderable village, little more than a mile from Caergwrle; it -also has the remains of a castle, at which Eleanor, queen of Edward the -First, made some stay on her way to Caernarvon.—Within a short distance -are the mansions of Bryn Yorkyn and Plâs Têg. Caergwrle and Hope, in -conjunction with Flint, Caerwys, Rhuddlan, Overton, and Holywell, send a -member to Parliament. - -Angling station:—the river Alun. - - - -CAERNARVON. - -Bangor 9 -Beaumaris 14 -Beddgelert 13 -Capel Curig 17 -Dolbadarn Castle 10 -Ffestiniog 25 -Llanberis 8 -London by Chester 254 -— by Shrewsbury 236 -Pwllheli 20 -Tan-y-Bwlch 23 -Tre-Madoc 20 - -Caernarvon is the capital of the county, and is one of the largest and -best towns in North Wales. It name is properly Caer yn Arvon, which -signifies a walled town in the district opposite to Anglesea. Ar Vôn or -Ar Môn implies opposite to Mona. - - “Caernarvon (we adopt the interesting and elegant description of Mr. - Roscoe,) is built on a peninsula, formed by the Menai on the west and - north sides, and by the Seiont on the south. It was formerly - enclosed by walls, defended by a chain of round towers, which on - three sides are still nearly entire. In former times there were but - two gates through which the inhabitants passed, but other openings - have been more recently made to form communications with the suburbs, - which are rapidly extending. The town-hall is over one of the - ancient gates of the town. - - A terrace, extending from the quay to the north end of the walls, - offers a delightful promenade, and presents a variety of interesting - objects around the port, which is daily rising into greater - importance by receiving and dispensing the fruits of industry and - commerce. This terrace, Mr. Bransby observes, possesses the powerful - recommendation of being always clean, and of soon becoming dry after - heavy and continued rain. From this walk to behold the sun on a calm - summer evening, as he goes down ‘in a paradise of clouds’ behind the - Anglesea hills, is to witness one of the most lovely and glorious - spectacles in nature. On an eminence called the Twt-hill, near the - Uxbridge Arms Hotel, is a most extensive and varied panoramic view, - including part of the Snowdonian range,—the isle of Anglesea, with - its plains, farms, and villas, backed by the mountains of Holyhead - and Parys,—the swelling Menai,—and the blue and spacious bay, with - the sea stretching far beyond. - - The harbour and the pier have both undergone very great improvement, - and ships of considerable burthen can now come up alongside the quay. - An extensive trade is carried on with Liverpool, Dublin, Bristol, - Swansea, &c., besides a lucrative coast trade, exchanging the - invaluable mineral substances of this part of the Principality for - timber and other articles. Slates are brought here as to the general - depôt from the quarries about Llanberis and Llanllyfni; and the - country people of all ranks resort hither, as the best and cheapest - market, from a considerable distance. - - The market-house, erected by the corporation, the Uxbridge Arms - Hotel, by the Marquis of Anglesea, a number of excellent inns, among - which stand foremost the Goat Hotel and the Sportsman, with hot and - cold baths, and a billiard-room, render the modern town as pleasant - and commodious a place of residence as the most fastidious nabob,—to - say nothing of hardy Welshmen and pedestrian ramblers,—could possibly - desire. - - Caernarvon is resorted to as a bathing place, and by invalids seeking - health and amusement, for a temporary residence. There are here the - advantages of a genteel neighbourhood as well as salubrious air; and - the rambler in quest of romantic scenery frequently makes this town - his head quarters. Besides many pleasant walks and rides in the - immediate vicinity, within the circle of a dozen miles are the Menai - Straits as far as Bangor, Llanberis, Snowdon, Plâs Newydd, and - Beddgelert, offering not only inducements to those in search of the - picturesque, but affording a source of continued gratification to the - botanist, mineralogist, and antiquary. - - The parish church of Caernarvon is at Llanbeblig, and stands in its - loneliness at the distance of half a mile to the south-east of the - castle wall. It is a structure of great antiquity, and contains the - altar-tomb of Sir William Gruffydd (a member of the Penrhyn family) - and Margaret, his wife. The knight mailed in armour, and the lady in - the full dress of the age, are sculptured in white marble, and lie - side by side. English service is performed at a chapel of ease at - Caernarvon, close to the castle; but in this venerable little place - the service is conducted in Welsh. The churchyard exhibits the - peculiarities which give a touching interest to some of the burying - places of the Principality. Flowers of all colours, but especially - snowdrops, violets, and pale primroses, display their beauty and - expend their perfume on the graves of children, and maidens ‘that die - unmarried,’ while branches of the box, arbutus, and laurel, with - shrubs of a firm and sombre hue, mark the resting places of the more - matured in this ‘City of the Silent.’ - - For its ample and magnificent feudal structure,—almost terrible to - the eye,—Caernarvon is indebted to the first Edward, who raised this - colossal castle—as if in derision of the poor tenure of all sovereign - power—near the ruins of the great Roman station. Soon after his - conquest, Edward began the stupendous pile, which served less to - overawe the Welsh than for a magnificent ruin and a modern wonder. - The remains of Segontium furnished part of the materials, bright grey - limestone, of exceeding durability, was brought from Twr Celyn, in - Anglesea, and grit-stone, for the windows and arches, from Vaenol, - between Caernarvon and Bangor. - - Vast, irregular, and more shattered than its exterior grandeur would - lead us to suppose, this giant-fortress stretches far along the west - of the town, its broad spreading walls being surmounted, at - intervals, with octagonal towers. The extent of the courts, the - gateways, and the towers, bear equal witness to those noble - proportions which astonish the modern architect, as from its - Eagle-turrets he commands the whole of its magnificent area, and the - wide sweeping circuit of its walls. - - Opposite the massive Eagle tower, in which the unfortunate Edward the - Second was born, is the Queen’s Gate, {76} which had two portcullises - that communicated with a drawbridge across the moat. Over the - embattled parapet are seen the turrets rising majestically above the - solitary ruins, bounded on two sides by the water; the third bears - traces of a large ditch; on the north-east side is a deep well, - nearly filled up, with a round tower contiguous to it, apparently the - ancient dungeon. The exterior, and especially the main entrance, has - an air of forlorn grandeur, blended with massy strength, which must - at all times excite admiration and awe in the beholder. The area - within is irregularly oblong, and was divided into an outer and inner - court. The external walls of the castle, enclosing an area of great - extent, are nearly as perfect as when they were built, and of - considerable height and thickness. - - The state apartments appear to have been spacious, commodious, and - handsomely ornamented; the windows wide, and enriched with elegant - tracery. The form is polygonal, though the exterior of the edifice - presents a complete square. The floors and staircases are - considerably injured—in many places wholly demolished. A gallery - extended round the entire fortress, to serve as a means of - communication in times of danger, and during a siege. It lay close - to the outer walls, and was provided with narrow slips, adapted for - stations, from which to annoy an enemy with arrows or other missiles - as occasion might require. But its time-worn and ivy-covered - bulwarks are now fast yielding, like the interior, to the assaults of - time. Some years ago the Eagle tower, struck by lightning, was split - down several yards from the summit, giving it still more the aspect - of a splendid ruin. - - It was evening, as I before said, when I first caught sight of the - castle. The sun’s disk had sunk below the horizon, but his refracted - rays still played upon that imaginary line ‘which parts the day and - night,’ casting an attenuated melancholy grace over the crumbling - fortress. I lingered amongst those ruins till the last vestige of - light was withdrawn, except such as is bestowed by a clear blue - firmament emblazoned with burning stars. As I gazed, the phantoms of - history passed rapidly before my mental eye, with an order and truth - like unto the facts treasured in her pages, and with a realizing - illusion that converted me into an actual spectator of the scenes. - From the topmost point of the Eagle Tower a prophetic voice seemed to - issue, dispelling the delusion that in those days clung to the hearts - of the stricken Cambrians, that their own-loved Arthur would again - appear to raise up their fast-falling nation to its former glory. I - saw the stern conqueror buckling on his armour, after the Easter - festival, resolute to conquer or exterminate the defenders of that - ancient land. I heard the wailing of that dark and stormy night of - Palm Sunday, when the strong hold of Hawarden fell before his - victorious sword. I tracked the line of march his countless legions - took through the deep forest, reaching, in ancient times, from the - confines of Cheshire to the mountains of Snowdon, leaving Flint and - Rhuddlan still frowning in their perilled rear; and I looked upon the - picture of that onslaught at the bridge of Moel-y-don, when an - English knight was seen buffeting the waves of Menai, and alone - escaped to tell the tale of national vengeance. The panorama - shifted, and another pictured page discovered that gallant prince, - the last of his race who held the sceptre of the Cymri, slowly - retreating before his haughty foe into the mountain holds hard - by,—dispirited, though not despairing,—cursed by the priest whom - Edward brought to curse him,—deluded by the soothsayer, whose - prophecy bore ‘a double sense,’ too fatally fulfilled in his own - person,—deserted by many of his friends, and his affianced wife - basely held a captive in the hands of his enemy. The scene then - moved; the undaunted hero still struggled with his fate, once the - sovereign of the whole land, now only lord of the five baronies of - Snowdon,—goaded by the insults of his mean conqueror,—maddened into - open war,—betrayed by his base confederate lords,—and perishing alone - and defenceless in the solitary recesses of a wood. Such was the - strange eventful story; and that castle which marked the triumph of - the conqueror, and the subjection of the people—which heard the - infant cries of the first English prince of this cheated land—which - opened wide at midnight its gates to troops of warrior-knights - belonging to an alien country—which rung again and again with the - rude revelry of that barbarous age, when the pageant and tournament - of Nefyn was ended,—and which in the days of its strength, passed - into the hands of foes, and friends, and fratricides,—that castle in - its gaunt ruins, yet remained as the monument of these records, and - the tomb in which past ages silently slept.” - -A rail-road has lately been formed from Llanllyfni to Caernarvon, a -distance of more than nine miles, for the purpose of conveying the copper -ore and slates to the quay. - -A most interesting part of the Menai Straits is connected with -Caernarvon. Tourists may enjoy boating in perfection, either on the -Tal-y-Foel ferry, the new ferry at Barris, to which a good road has -recently been made, through the lands of the Marquis of Anglesea, by his -free permission; or to Aber-mania, at the mouth or gap of the straits, -and then to Llanddwyn, where are the remains of an old abbey. On the -opposite side the gap to Aber-mania is St. David’s Fort, a marine -residence of Lord Newborough, well worth a visit, and where the domestics -shew the greatest civility. A few miles to the northward, on the east -coast of Caernarvon bay, is Dinas Dinlle, an old Roman station of -artificial formation. - -Caernarvon is remarkable for having been the first town in the -principality that enjoyed the privilege of a royal charter, which was -granted by Edward the First. The government of the place was rested in a -mayor (who is always constable of the castle), two bailiffs, a recorder, -burgesses, &c. before the passing of the municipal reform act; now it is -under the provisions of that act. In conjunction with the boroughs of -Conway, Criccieth. Nevin, Pwllheli, and Bangor, Caernarvon returns a -member to parliament. The member in the present parliament is W. B. -Hughes, Esq. - -There are two banks, viz. Messrs. Williams & Co. commonly known as the -old bank, and which is in connection with the banks of the same firm at -Chester and Bangor; and a branch of the North and South Wales bank. -Coaches pass several times each day between this place and Bangor, and -the mail leaves every morning for Pwllheli through Clynog; and for -Barmouth, through Beddgelert, Tremadoc, Tan-y-bwlch, and Harlech. - -Caernarvon castle is now undergoing considerable repairs, under the -authority of the Commissioners of Woods and Forests. - -It is more than probable, that the town of Caernarvon had its origin in -the Roman city of Segontium, about half a mile distant, and that it is -not, as many have supposed, indebted for its name to Edward the First; -for _the fort in Arvon_, or in the hundred opposite to Anglesea, as the -name indicates, would apply with equal propriety to the ancient city as -to this more modern fortress. The town, however, there is no doubt, was -the creation of Edward, and it was most probably formed from the ruins of -the old station. The site of the ancient city of Segontium lies about -half a mile south of Caernarvon, the ancient Roman station mentioned in -the Itinerary of Antonius. This appears to have been the principal -station that the Romans had in North Wales, all the rest being only -subordinate stations. It received its name from the river Seiont, which -rises in the lower lake of Llanberis, passes under the walls, and -discharges itself into the Menai near Caernarvon castle. Its form was an -oblong; and it appears originally to have occupied about six acres of -ground. Not far hence was the fort which belonged to it: this was also -of an oblong figure, and stood upon about an acre of ground. The walls -are at present about eleven feet high, and six in thickness, and at each -corner there has formerly been a tower. A chapel, said to be founded by -Helen, daughter of Octavius, Duke of Cornwall, and a well which bears her -name, are amongst the ruins still pointed out. The chapel was standing -little more than a century ago. The old Roman road from the station of -Dinas Dinorwic, in Llanddeiniolen, to Dinas Dinlle, on the shore of -Caernarvon bay, lay through Caernarvon. Both stations are worth the -attention of the antiquary. - - - -CAERWYS, -(_Flintshire_.) - -Chester 23 -Denbigh 7½ -Holywell 6 -London 212 -Mold 12 -St. Asaph 7 - -Caerwys, formerly a market town, with the parish of the same name, -contains about 1000 inhabitants, being situated on the high road leading -from Holywell to Denbigh, through the beautiful Vale of Clwyd. Caerwys -has the most considerable fairs for cattle, sheep, pigs, and horses, in -all the country, though its markets have long since failed. The -market-house still remains, but it has been converted, time out of mind, -into a dwelling-house. It is close to the cross; to the S. W. the arches -are yet plainly to be seen, though filled up; and the remains of an erect -south dial are yet distinctly to be seen in the south wall. - -A few hundred yards to the west, is a most beautiful dingle, known by the -name of Maesmynan Wort, offering a pleasant ramble to the admirer of -nature and the botanist. Near the place where the brook, which runs -through this dingle by Maesmynan House, empties itself into the Wheeler, -was formerly the residence of Llywelyn ab Gruffydd, the last native -prince of Wales: a cottage, now called Pandy, shews the place where the -prince resided. - -Among the towns of the Principality, this was formerly a place of great -renown, but its glory has faded away, and nought remains to evince its -ancient consequence but its name. This is a compound of the two words, -_Caer_, a city, and _gwŷs_, a summons, notifying its having been a place -of judicature. The assizes for the county were held in the town of -Caerwys till about the middle of the seventeenth century, when they were -removed to Flint; the goal is yet remaining, though converted into a -dwelling-house, called Yr hên Gaol. This still continues to be one of -the contributory boroughs for the return of a member to parliament. Mr. -Pennant, upwards of fifty years ago, describes Caerwys as a “town -mouldering away with age.” The chief boast of this town was its being -the _olympia_ of North Wales, the theatre where the British bards poured -forth their extemporaneous effusions, - - “In thoughts that breathe, and words that burn;” - -and where the honoured minstrels awakened - - “Their harps to soul-enchanting melody, - And gave to rapture all their trembling strings.” - -Here were held the ancient _Eisteddvodau_, or congresses of bards and -minstrels, where judges presided, appointed by special commission from -the Princes of Wales previous to the conquest, and from the Kings of -England after that event. These arbiters were bound to pronounce justly -and impartially on the talents of the respective candidates, and grant -degrees according to merit. The bards were formed into a college, the -members of which had particular privileges to be enjoyed by none but such -as were admitted to their degrees, and licensed by the judges. The last -commission granted by royal authority for holding this court of Apollo -seems to have been in the 9th of Elizabeth, when Sir Richard Bulkeley, -knt. and certain other persons were empowered to make proclamation in the -towns of North Wales, that all persons intending to follow the profession -of bards, &c. should appear before them at Caerwys on a certain day, in -order to give proofs of their talents in the science of music, and to -receive licenses to practise the same. The meeting was numerous, and -fifty-five persons were admitted to their degrees. From this period, -these meetings were discontinued at Caerwys and throughout the -Principality: the minstrel ceased to be considered a venerable character -in England, and our monarchs looked, probably, with equal contempt on the -bards of Wales. Thus neglected and despised, the Eisteddvodau dwindled -to nothing, and reposed in oblivion for many years. - -Towards the close of the last century, some spirited Welsh gentlemen, who -had the honour of their national harmony and literature at heart, -determined to revive a meeting likely to preserve and encourage that -music and language, the excellence of which has for ages been -enthusiastically admired by their countrymen. In the spring of 1798, -their resolution was carried into effect; and an Eisteddvod was held at -Caerwys, the ancient place of meeting. Since this period, Eisteddvodau -have been frequent in different parts of the Principality. - - - -CAPEL CURIG, -(_Caernarvonshire_,) - -Bangor 14½ -Beddgelert 12 -Caernarvon 17 -Cerniogau Mawr 15 -Ffestiniog 20 -Llanberis 10 -Llanrwst 10 -Menai Bridge 17 - -Capel Curig is most beautifully situated on the London and Holyhead road. -From its vicinity to Snowdon and other mountains of note in this part of -the Principality, and to several of the first lakes in North Wales, it -has been for a long time much frequented by tourists; and since the -diversion of the great Holyhead road through Nant Ffrancon, and the -erection of a spacious hotel here by the late Lord Penrhyn, has become a -place of fashionable resort, and during the summer season is visited by -many families of distinction. A new line of road from this place to -Caernarvon, through the pass of Llanberis, at the foot of Snowdon, has -lately been opened, affording a more direct communication with the -interior of the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth. - -In this vale there is a lovely variety both of wood and water. The name -is derived from its chapel, dedicated to a Welsh saint called Curig, -situate a short distance from the inn. He is mentioned in an old Welsh -poem, which, however, only intimates his order, and nothing more is at -present known of him. - -Capel Curig is situated in a district abounding with mineral wealth. A -great quantity of calamine has been obtained here, and in the vicinity is -found the broad primitive rock called serpentine. Near a place called -Bryn Gwaliau, between Capel Curig and Llanrwst, there are some remains of -a Roman edifice, a great part of which has been removed for building -materials: one of the apartments was found by Mr. Lysons to be sixty feet -by twenty in dimensions, and another eighteen feet six inches square, in -which latter were several short square pillars of stone, similar to those -of the hypocaust near the Feathers hotel in Chester. - -Behind the inn at Capel Curig westward are two lakes connected by a -stream, on which a boat is kept, and frequently employed by visitors in -aquatic excursions. At the foot of the lake there is an ancient rustic -bridge, from which, as well as from the lake, is a fine view of old -Snowdon and his proud associates.—At a short distance from the hotel -southward, rises the mountain of - - -Moel Siabod, - - -Whose height is 2878 feet: it is exceedingly precipitous, especially on -that side towards Bettws-y-Coed, and the summit is thickly strewed with -loose fragments. From this commanding station is a most magnificent view -of the mountains of Snowdonia, of nine different lakes, and “ocean’s dim -immensity.” The distance from the inn to the summit is about three miles -and a half.—Beneath Moel Siabod, towards the east, and about five miles -from Capel Curig, is - - -Dolwyddelan Castle, - - -Said to have been built about the year 500. It is situated on a high -rock, inaccessible on one side, and consists of two square towers, one 40 -feet by 25, the other 31 feet by 20, and a court in the middle. This old -ruin, entirely enclosed by mountains, built probably by some of the -princes of North Wales, though its original founder and the time of its -erection are unknown. Iorwerth Drwyndwn made this castle his residence, -and his son, Llywelyn the Great, is said to have been born at this place. -It was a fortress of considerable importance to the Welsh, but a few -decaying relics now serve to mark the site of its former power and -grandeur. Recent investigations render it probable that this was the -last stronghold in North Wales that held out against Edward the First. -In the royal roll of expenditure of that period, appear items of payments -to an earl, a knight, and a squire, for bringing news to the Queen, at -Rhuddlan, where the army of reserve was stationed whilst Edward was -pursuing his successes in the Snowdonian mountains, of the reduction of -this fortress; and the date corresponds with the close of the resistance -and capture of David, the brother of Llywelyn. The village of -Dolwyddelan stands within about a mile of the castle, and consists of -only a few small cottages. - -Three miles and a half from Capel Curig, on the left of the road toward -Bettws, is the celebrated cataract of - - -Rhaiadr-y-Wennol, - - -(Or the Waterfall of the Swallow.) The scenery around this truly -beautiful and picturesque fall, formed by the little river Llugwy, is -truly grand; the water at the top is in one body, but soon becomes broken -into many streams, dashing impetuously over large masses of rock, which -impede its progress, down a rugged chasm of sixty feet wide at the -broadest part, The high banks of the ravine are wooded, the trees hanging -beautifully over the torrent, and the ground is richly carpetted with -mosses and various wild flowers. From the upper part of the wood, near -the head of the fall, there is a very good view of the descending flood; -a path from the high road leads to the fall, and a little wicket gate has -been placed in the wall on the road side, for the convenience of visitors -who may wish to obtain a view of this sublime scene, which, although -contiguous to the road, is so obscured in the wood, that the traveller -will almost certainly pass it unawares, unless he makes timely enquiry: -it may, however, be discovered by a summer-house which has lately been -built on the top of a mountain directly over the fall. - -About four miles from Capel Curig, on the Bangor road, is situated - - -Lake Ogwen, - - -From whence issues the river Ogwen. This lake is well stocked with -excellent trout of a peculiar colour and flavour, surpassing in these -respects all fish found in the Caernarvonshire lakes; they are of a -bright yellow cast in the water, though when eaten they have a fine -salmon colour; they are easily taken with the fly. The surplus water of -this lake discharges itself at the western end, through a chasm in the -rocks, tumbling in three noble cataracts down a height of about one -hundred feet, called the Falls of Benglog, which are concentrated into a -bed in the luxuriant and beautifully green meadows of - - -Nant Ffrancon, - - -(Or the Beaver’s Hollow), so called from having been the resort of those -animals. This is a romantic and tremendous glen, destitute of wood, and -even of cultivation, except the narrow slip of a meadow which lies along -its bottom. The fantastic piles of rocks which compose its sides, rise -abruptly from their base, and stretch their barren points into the -clouds. The Holyhead and London road passes through the whole extent. - -In 1685, part of a rock, forming one of the impending cliffs, became so -undermined by wind and rain, that loosing its hold, it fell in several -immense masses, and in its passage down a steep and craggy cliff, -dislodged some thousands of other stones. The largest piece of the -falling rock continued its motion through a small meadow, and rested on -the further side of the river Ogwen. In the winter of 1831, another part -of the rock gave way, when upwards of one thousand tons fell from near -the summit of Benglog, a little below the Ogwen cataracts; part rolling -straight across the road, fell into the valley and river at the bottom; -while another part having acquired a less momentum, rested on the road; -the intercourse of travellers was for some time impeded, although one -hundred miners were engaged in clearing the surface of the road. A -gentleman from the vale of Llanrwst had just passed along in his -carriage, on his way to Bangor, when the terrific sound of the dissolving -mountain fell upon his astonished ear. - -The mountains at the upper end of this vale form a scene singularly -grand; on each side the hollow appears guarded by a huge conical rock, -Trivaen on the right, and Braich-dû on the left. These, with the -Glyder-vach and the Glyder-vawr, and some other mountains, fill up the -distance, and apparently close the vale. - -Near this place, beside a little gothic cottage, is a small hone quarry, -Y Trivaen, which received its name from three tall stones standing in an -upright position on its summit, and from below had the exact resemblance -of three men. Of these only two remain. - -One mile from Ogwen lake, in a deep valley, lies a dark pool, called - - -Llyn Idwal. - - -The gloomy horrors of the surrounding scenery exceed even those of Ogwen; -the encircling cliffs are overhanging, broken, and dark; in one part the -whole mountain is rent asunder, and the chasm of Twll dû (or the Black -Cleft) gapes between the terrific masses. The solitude of Cwm Idwal -proved favourable to the perpetration of a deed of blood, and it was here -that young Idwal, the infant heir of Prince Owen Gwynedd, was -treacherously assassinated, by order of his foster-father Nefydd, to -whose care his father had consigned him. - -Miss Costello gives the following description of this romantic region:— - -“We were not induced to linger very long in the slate quarries, being -more desirous to make ourselves acquainted with the undisturbed nature -which invited us on the way to Capel Curig. - -“The Vale of Nant Ffrancon is wild and stupendous in the extreme; it is -an extensive marshy valley, filled with peat, whose black masses are -piled in all directions in stacks; numerous alleys filled with the water -which drains from it, are cut through the turf on whose surface the -graceful cotton plant waves its feathery and snowy tresses, covering the -swampy ground, and lending it beauty; numerous water flowers of bright -colour give some life to the scene, which would otherwise be -inexpressibly dreary. Huge masses of crumbling rocks bind in the narrow -valley, and assume the strangest and most grotesque shapes, as though the -visions of the Welsh bard, Davydd ap Gwilym, were realized, and - - “‘There were in every hollow - A hundred wry-mouthed elves.’ - -“Indeed, the famous and dreaded family of the Ellyllon, who are fond of -coming forth in mist and rain, seemed to have pursued and overtaken us -just as we had nearly reached the gloomy, dark, and secluded lake of -Ogwen. The clouds grew darker, and rolled in heavy masses through the -valley, and down the sides of the hills—a chill and hollow wind rose and -whistled fearfully along the pass—large drops of rain began to fall, and -we thought there was no escape from one of those storms so frequent in -these regions; but the spirits sulked themselves into good humour, and -did not force us to choose the usual alternative of travellers who fall -into their power, for they are said to insist on their taking the -uncomfortable choice of three methods of continuing their journey: to go -with them ‘above the wind, mid wind, or below the wind:’ the first is to -be whirled above the tops of the mountains at more than rail-road speed; -the last to be hurried along, through brakes and briars, against stones -and amongst bogs; and the middle way, generally preferred by those who -have experience in the freaks of these elves, is to accompany them at a -moderate distance in the air just clearing every obstacle. - -“We contrived to gain the shore of lake Ogwen unmolested by all the imps -and demons, who seemed to have come on the wings of the blast from their -modern retreat on the pedestals of Penrhyn Castle, to visit the haunts -where they dwelt in days of yore, before every rock was attacked for its -mineral wealth as it is now. On the borders of this solemn lake, -however, the miner’s hammer is unheard; all is solitary grandeur and -gloomy sublimity: mountains are piled on each other, and appear to crowd -together round the lake, pressing its dark waters into a small space, -deep and generally still, though ruffled when we saw it, by the rushing -wind that swept through the hollow of Nant Ffrancon. - -“The river Ogwen issues from this lake, and the accumulated waters which -its rocky basin is unable to contain force their way through a chasm in -the rocks, and fall with tremendous force in three cataracts, called the -Falls of Benglog. - -“Solemn and silent as Ogwen appears, it is less fearful and solitary than -another dark lake situated high up amongst the mountains in the vicinity, -called Llyn Idwal, where, in the early times of Welsh history, it is -recorded, that Idwal, the infant heir of Prince Owen Gwynedd, was drowned -by the hand of his foster-father, when - - “‘No human ear but Dunawt’s {87} heard - Young Idwal’s dying scream.’ - -“The cliffs that encircle this lake are split into a thousand fearful -shapes, and a mighty chasm yawns between, called Twll dû, which is said -to be the abode of the unquiet soul of the murderer and the howling and -exulting demon who torments him for his hateful crime—a crime - - “‘Most foul, strange, and unnatural.’ - -“No bird will ever dip his wing in that lake, nor pause near its waters. - -“Nothing can exceed the horror of this spot: the breach in the black rock -is like that produced by the Sword of Roland in the Pyrenees, but no -cheering prospect of far lands opens through: here all is dark, fearful, -and tremendously appalling. - -“The Twll dû is sometimes called the Devil’s Kitchen; the waters of the -lake rush impetuously through its chasm. In memory of the tragedy acted -here, the fish, of which there was formerly a profusion, were all -deprived, according to received tradition, of one eye, the left being -closed: as there are now no fish in the lake, it is impossible to verify -the truth of this legend. - -“This neighbourhood is the chosen abode of demons and strange monsters; -and once upon a time, it is said, that a hunter pursuing the chase in the -valleys between these mountains saw suddenly, perched on a rock, an -extraordinary animal, such as had never before been beheld. It was -hunched like a buffalo, and was covered with tufts of hair which shone -like gold. The daring hunter pursued it over every obstacle, till he had -nearly reached the Twll dû, when he overtook and slew it; but he gained -little by his exploit, for the animal bellowed so loud that the rocks -split in all directions; and neither the huntsman nor his prey was seen -afterwards. - -“The pretty inn at Capel Curig is built of slate, walls and roof and -flights of steps, all of a shining grey, contrasting oddly with its gay -garden of roses which lies beneath. From this garden is a fine view of -Snowdon and its lake, with mountain scenery of great sublimity on all -sides. The graceful bridge over Gwyryd is a beautiful object in the -distance: while Snowdon, Moel Siabod, and the three sister lakes linked -together, which extend along this charming valley, lie all before the -eye.” - - - -CERIG-Y-DRUIDION, -(_Denbighshire_.) - -Cerniogau 3 -Corwen 10 -Llanrwst 14 -Pont-y-Glyn 4½ -Ruthin 15 - -This is a pleasant village, so named from its being supposed to have been -the abode of the Druids. In Camden’s time it was famed for some -druidical remains. These ancient relics have long since been removed; -they consisted of _cromlechs_ and _kist vaens_, or stone chests. - -At Pen Gwerwyn, a hill about a mile to the east of the village, are some -inconsiderable remains of a castle, of which tradition says that it once -belonged to Caractacus. We are told that when he was routed by the -Romans, he retreated to this castle for safety; but was, with his whole -family, betrayed to the enemy, and sent prisoner to Rome, where he -delivered that celebrated speech which is so familiar to all students of -British history. - - - -CERNIOGAU MAWR, -(_Denbighshire_.) - -Capel Curig 15 -Cerig-y-Druidion 3 -Corwen 13 -Ruthin 18 - -Cerniogau Mawr is a hamlet of three or four small houses, in an elevated -situation, on the London and Holyhead mail-road. Five miles on the road -to Llanrwst is Gallt-y-Gwy, a terrace of more than two miles long. To -the east appears the beautiful deep vale of Llanrwst, with Conway in the -termination. - - - -CHESTER. - - -Although this city is not strictly within the cognizance of our -publication, yet its close proximity to North Wales, and the advantages -which it offers as a starting point from which a tour of the Principality -may be commenced, warrant us in devoting to it a passing notice. Chester -abounds with objects of interest to the traveller; and its many antique -relics of bygone ages never fail to excite the admiration of those who -take pleasure in the quaint architecture, or historical memorials of -former times. - -Its old walls, its antique rows, its curiously carved and gable-ended -houses, its venerable cathedral, its solemn towers, its abbey gates, the -ruined Priory, and the time-worn church of St. John, may be enumerated -among the more prominent vestiges of its antiquities. While its noble -castle, its unrivalled Grosvenor Bridge, and the elegant lodge at the -entrance of Eaton Park, are among the modern attractions which the -tourist will examine with interest and delight; but to the description of -which we shall not in this place devote a fuller notice, as they are more -particularly alluded to elsewhere. - - - -CHIRK, -(_Denbighshire_.) - -Llangollen 7 -London 176 -Oswestry 5 -Ruabon 6 - -Chirk is pleasantly situated on the northern bank of the river Ceiriog, -which, flowing through a small vale of great beauty, here separates the -counties of Denbigh and Salop, and of course Wales and England. It is a -very neat and clean village, and contains some highly respectable houses, -and several substantial and well-built cottages, having been greatly -improved within the last few years by the late Mrs. Myddelton Biddulph, -who, on coming into possession of the Chirk Castle estates, pulled down -several dilapidated buildings, and erected others of modest and uniform -appearance for her tenants, on more eligible sites. The Holyhead road, -on both sides the village, has been widened and altered within the last -few years, so as to avoid the irregularities and windings in its course. -There are some coal mines in this parish, extensive lime works, and -several large iron forges, which employ a great number of hands. The -village has a good church, and in the yard are several remarkably old yew -trees. - - -Chirk Aqueduct. - - -The Ellesmere canal enters this parish from Shropshire, and is conveyed -across the vale of Chirk and the river Ceiriog by means of an aqueduct, -two hundred and thirty yards long, consisting of ten arches, the piers of -which are sixty-five feet high, and then immediately enters a tunnel two -hundred and twenty yards long. On emerging from this subterranean -passage, it proceeds on its course through the parish, and then enters -another tunnel, soon after which it is carried over the vale of the Dee -by the stupendous aqueduct of Pont-y-Cyssylltau. About one mile and a -half to the west of the village is - - -CHIRK CASTLE, - - -proudly situated on an eminence, backed by the Berwyn mountains. It is a -venerable quadrangular embattled structure, defended by a low massive -tower at each corner, and another in the centre of the north front, where -is the principal entrance, under an arched gateway guarded by a -portcullis, into a square area of considerable dimensions, round which -the various apartments are ranged: on the east side of this area extends -a low embattled corridor, leading into the principal apartments, which -were greatly altered, modernised, and embellished by the late Mrs. -Biddulph, within the last few years; but the old entrance to the hall is -by a flight of steps on the north side of the area. The picture gallery, -at the south end of which is the chapel, is 100 feet in length by 22 in -width, and contains some good portraits and other paintings. - -Chirk castle is supposed to have been built in the year 1013, and was an -extremely strong fortification. The front is about 250 feet; and two -persons abreast may parade the battlements with ease. It was besieged by -the parliamentary forces, and considerably battered by the cannon of -Cromwell. The repairs cost £80,000. - -The park is extensive, and disposed with picturesque effect, the -inequalities of its surface, and the declivity of the hill extending -behind it and towards the north, having afforded a favourable scope for -the arrangement of the trees and plantations. Near New Hall, which is -described as an old seat of the Myddeltons, rebuilt many years ago as a -farm-house, and surrounded by a moat, at the entrance into the park from -Llangollen and Wrexham, stands a pair of iron gates, of the richest, most -delicate, and exquisite workmanship, designed and executed by a common -blacksmith. - -The summit of the castle commands a wide expanse of great beauty and -magnificence, offering to the naked eye an uninterrupted view into -seventeen different counties. The river Ceiriog runs on the west side of -the castle, through a deep and picturesque valley, remarkable in history -as the scene of a sanguinary conflict in 1165, between the forces under -Henry the Second and those of the Welsh under their brave Prince Owen -Gwynedd, when the latter obtained a decisive victory, and compelled the -Saxon monarch to seek safety in a retreat to his own territories. - -In this neighbourhood are many ancient fortifications, the most -noticeable of which is part of Offa’s dyke, thrown up as the boundary -between the ancient Britons and the Saxons in 763. - -This fine estate has been in possession of the Myddelton family since the -beginning of the seventeenth century; the present possessor is Colonel -Robert Myddelton Biddulph, Lord Lieutenant of Denbighshire, paternally -descended from the Biddulphs of Ledbury, in Herefordshire. - -One mile below the village of Chirk is also - - -BRYN KINALLT, - - -the elegant seat of Lord Dungannon. It is delightfully situated on an -elevation, and surrounded by extensive and beautiful plantations. - - - -CLYNOG, -(_Caernarvonshire_.) - -Caernarvon 10 -Llanllyfni 6 -Pwllheli 10 - -This beautiful village is situated on the turnpike-road, about -equidistant between Caernarvon and Pwllheli. It has a remarkably fine -gothic church, the tower of which rises very beautifully from among a -verdant cluster of noble trees. - -St. Beuno, the reputed uncle of St. Winifred, erected the church and a -grand mausoleum, now called St. Beuno’s chapel, which communicates with -the church through a dark vaulted passage of six yards. In this chapel -the remains of the pious founder, who lived in the seventh century, were -deposited, and here also was his saintly niece interred. Her effigy in -stone, mutilated like an Egyptian mummy, is still to be seen at this -sacred edifice. - -About a hundred yards from the church, adjoining the turnpike-road, is -St. Beuno’s well, eight feet square, inclosed by a wall eight feet high. -This well was much famed for healing the sick, and particularly for -curing the rickets in children. Within the last fifty years, however, -the well has ceased to attract so many devotees, though no doubt can -exist as to the sanative virtues of its waters. - -In the south-east corner of the church, near the altar-table there is an -old wooden chest, belted with iron, and fastened to the floor, called -“Cŷff Beuno” (Beuno’s chest), which was originally placed there to -receive the offerings of money from the devotees of the saint, who -repaired there for comfort and healing. - -Between Clynog and Caernarvon is Glynllifon, the seat of Lord Newborough. -It was recently destroyed by fire, and is now rebuilt.—Near the coast is -Dinas Dinlle, a Roman station, 30 acres in extent, supposed to have been -artificially raised by the soldiers of Agricola. - -Rhaiadr Dibyn Mawr is a waterfall among the mountains, distant about two -miles from Clynog. - - - -CONWAY, -(_Caernarvonshire_.) - -Aber 9 -Abergele 12 -Bangor 14½ -Caernarvon 24 -Llandulas 9 -Llanrwst 12 -London 236 -Penmaen Mawr 6 - -This is one of the most interesting and picturesque towns in North Wales. -The approach to the town from the Denbighshire side of the river is -remarkably interesting, and presents a fine view of the noble castle and -the beautiful suspension bridge, with the adjacent mountain scenery, -forming a glorious panorama of surpassing loveliness and sublimity. The -pearl fishery of the Conway, which even yet, though shorn of its former -importance, affords employment to several poor families, was celebrated -in the time of the Romans. Pliny says that Julius Cæsar dedicated in one -of the temples of Rome a breastplate set with British pearls, probably -from this fishery. And in comparatively modern days, one of these -pearls, presented to the Queen of Charles the Second by Sir R. Wynne, was -honoured with a place in the royal crown, where probably it yet shines, -in testimony of the loyalty of the Welshman. The British pearls are -found in a shell-fish, called by Linnæus _myd margaritefera_, the pearl -muscle, peculiar to stony and rapid rivers. - -The port of Conway is a dry harbour, frequented by a few coasting -vessels; and the river is navigable up to the village of Trefriw, which -is about twelve miles from its mouth. A quay extends along the east side -of the town wall. The principal inns are the Castle and the Newborough -Arms. - -The castle, built in 1284, under the eye of Edward the First, by the -architect, it is supposed, whom he employed in the erection of -Caernarvon, is very justly regarded as one of the most beautiful -fortresses in a country distinguished for the splendour and magnificence -of its military structures. Though more extensive and better preserved, -it somewhat resembles the castle of Falaise, in Normandy. Its base, -however, is less wooded, and there is no brawling streamlet leaping, as -there, from rock to rock, at its foot; but instead, a broad, majestic -river, and a creek full at high water, swoop round two of its sides. The -other two face the town. Within the walls are two spacious courts; and -the external line of the fortifications contains eight lofty towers, each -with a slender turret, singularly graceful and elegant in form, springing -from its summit. - -The great hall on the right measures 130 feet long and 30 broad, and is -lighted by six lancet-shaped windows, opening out upon the creek, and -three pointed windows, of exquisite tracery, looking towards the ample -court. Eight Gothic arches, four of which remain entire, supported the -roof of this magnificent apartment. A lofty Norman arched window at each -end, and two broad carved fire-places, completed the architectural -decorations and appearances of the hall. The spacious hall was the scene -of the Christmas revelries to which Edward and his queen invited the -English nobility and their high-spirited dames, while the monarch was -forging the chain that was for ever to enslave the prostrate -Principality. The walls, on all sides, are covered with a green drapery -of luxuriant ivy, and a meadow of grass lies in the open area of the -courts. The warder’s duty is supplied by a whole tribe of crows, whose -solemn parley is heard the instant a stranger’s foot approaches the -domain they have usurped; and the ivied walls are nearly alive with -blackbirds, and birds of all colour, whose notes resound for the -live-long day throughout these otherwise deserted ruins. Two entrances, -both contrived for security, led into the fortress; one by winding narrow -stairs, up a steep rock, from the Conway, and terminating in a small -advanced work before one of the castle-gates, covered by two round -towers—the other towards the town, protected by similar works, with the -addition of a drawbridge over a broad moat. - -Notwithstanding its grandeur and importance, this castle makes no great -figure in history. Soon after its erection, the royal founder was -besieged in it by the Welsh, and the garrison nearly reduced to an -unconditional surrender by famine. Finally, however, they were -extricated from their perilous situation by the arrival of a fleet with -reinforcements and provisions. In 1399, Richard the Second, then in -Ireland, commanded the troops, raised in his behalf against the haughty -Bolingbroke, to assemble at Conway, and their numbers were considerable; -but the vacillation and feebleness of purpose of that monarch induced -many of them to abandon him on his arrival; yet the remainder was still -sufficient to have made head against the usurper, had not the king, who -feared to fight his own battles, basely abandoned his followers, and -rushed blindly into the snare laid for him by his enemies. During the -civil wars, Conway Castle was at first held by Archbishop Williams for -the king; but the warlike churchman, being superseded by the fiery Rupert -in the command of North Wales, went over in dudgeon to the republican -party, and personally assisted the gallant General Mytton in the -reduction of the castle. While the republic flourished, this noble -fortress was suffered to retain all its ancient grandeur undiminished; -but on the restoration, a grant having been made of it, by the Stuart, to -the Earl of Conway, its new possessor ordered his agent to remove the -timber, iron, lead, and other valuable materials, and send them to -Ireland, ostensibly for his master’s service, though it is generally -supposed they were intended for his own use. A suitable fate attended -this desecration of one of the finest structures of antiquity, the -vessels which conveyed the materials being wrecked, and the whole of the -property entirely lost. - -This ancient castle is the fictitious scene of the drama of the _Castle -Spectre_, and of _The Bard_ of Gray. - -The suspension bridge, by Mr. Telford, is constructed on the same -principle as that of the Menai, though on a smaller scale, and presents -an appearance singularly elegant, lying at the foot of the antique -castle, and surrounded by scenery of the most picturesque description. -It is 320 feet in length between the supporting towers, and 18 feet above -high-water mark. The chains on the western side pass upwards of 50 feet -under the castle, and are fastened in the granite foundations on which it -is built. On the farther side they are bolted into an insular rock, -which rises in the bed of the river, and forms the strait through which -the gushing waters pass on their way to the sea. - -The piers of the bridge, and the toll-house at the western extremity, are -built in strict keeping with the architecture of the castle. An -embankment, formed of hard clay, faced with solid masonry of stone, and -stretching from the insular rock to the western shore of the county of -Denbigh, a length of 671 yards, with a breadth of 30 feet, and an extreme -elevation of 54 feet, exhibits one of the finest and firmest _chaussées_ -in the world. - -The church, though ancient, contains scarcely anything worthy of notice, -except the following inscription, engraved on a stone in the nave of the -building, which, though found in Pennant and other tourists, is so -curious as to deserve repetition: “Here lyeth the body of Nicholas -Hookes, of Convey, gentleman, (who was the forty-first child of his -father, Wm. Hookes Esq. by Alice, his wife,) the father of twenty-seven -children, who died the 27th day of March, 1637.” In the market-place is -an old building called Plâs Mawr, which was erected more than two -centuries ago. It is deserving the notice of the antiquarian. The town -is surrounded by a very thick wall, strengthened by twenty-four towers, -most of which remain in tolerable preservation. - -Miss Costello seems to have been thoroughly enraptured with Conway, of -which she says, “I think no description, however enthusiastic, can do -justice to one of the most romantic and interesting spots that exists -perhaps in Europe. Although the modern bridge, which carries the road -across the river to the castle walls, looks, as it is of course, of a -very different date from the antique structure, yet there is something so -singular, so beautiful, and so aërial in a suspension bridge, that it can -scarcely be thought out of character with the Moorish-looking towers and -turrets to which it leads, which are as light and graceful as itself, in -spite of their immense strength and power. With all the legends of -supernatural buildings with which Wales abounds, it would not be -difficult for the imagination to conceive that the Genii threw these -delicate chains over the wide space that divides the castle from the -opposite rocks, and thus obtained a triumph over the giant who kept the -fortress. Both near and at a distance it has a beautiful effect, and is -even more graceful than the surprising work over the Menai Straits. - -“The castle, although on the shore of the broad river, which is here, at -high water, half a mile wide, stands on a lofty rock, which forms the -strong foundation of the fabric, and defends the town, which must however -have been well capable of defence in itself, to judge by the huge walls -which surround it, and which are still entire, and the enormous towers -placed from distance to distance along their whole extent. The shape of -the town is fancifully said to resemble a Welsh harp, to the form of -which it really has much affinity; and as there are no suburbs nor a -single straggling house beyond the allotted precincts, it is plainly -defined and has a peculiarly striking aspect, quite unlike that of any -other town I ever saw. - -“In all lights and from all points the castle looks well: but the best -view of it is perhaps from the opposite shore, where all its towers, and -battlements, and minaret turrets, come out in great relief, particularly -with a sunset sky behind them, when they stand forth most gorgeously. -With the river full of water, and the sun going down red and glowing, as -we saw it the first evening we arrived, nothing can be conceived more -magnificent than the scene: - - “‘Seem’d all on fire that castle proud,’ - -“with crimson and golden flames issuing from the lofty, dark walls. But -when we beheld it in the morning, shining white, with the blue sky for -its background, we could not decide at which hour it was most admirable; -and again, whether by the light of a brilliant moon the mighty fortress, -whose rents and defacements the favouring shade concealed, did not appear -after all to the greatest advantage. * * * - -“We were so delighted with the extreme beauty of the castle, and the -quiet of this simple place, that we remained there ten days, in order to -enjoy frequent strolls amongst the ruins, and visit some of the most -interesting places near.” - -We fully concur in the glowing encomiums which have been passed by the -most intelligent tourists on the locality of Conway, which is doubtless -one of the most attractive and interesting spots in the Principality. - -From Conway, Mr. Bingley, the celebrated author, made an excursion round - - -Creiddin, - - -a commot or hundred of Caernarvonshire, situated upon the side of the -river opposite to Conway, and forming a considerable promontory into the -Irish Sea. After crossing the river, and proceeding along the shore for -about half a mile, the first object of attraction is - - -Diganwy, - - -or Dinas Gonwy (or the Fort on the Conway), called by the common people, -“Y Faer dre,” and by the English, Gannoc. The ruins of the ancient -castle are situated on the summit of two small hills, near the shore. At -a short distance is a circular watch-tower, said to have been built some -time in the latter part of the seventeenth century. - -Mr. Bingley next crossed the flat, and under the S.W. side of Llandudno -rock, passed the shell of a large mansion, which some centuries ago was a -palace belonging to the Bishop of Bangor; thence along the steep and -slippery sides of the elevated down of Llandudno, for about two miles to -the end of the promontory. Here the rocks are for the most part -perpendicular, of amazing height. Many rare plants are found in this -district. - -About a mile from the N. E. side of the promontory is Llandudno church; -and at a short distance is Eglwys Rhôs, celebrated as the last refuge of -Maelgwyn Gwynedd, who fled hither to avoid the _vâd velen_ (or yellow -fever) which raged over a great part of Europe. - -Not far distant is GLODDAETH, one of the seats of the Hon. E. M. Ll. -Mostyn, built by his ancestor, Sir Roger Mostyn, Bart. in the reign of -Queen Elizabeth. The walks of Gloddaeth are remarkably beautiful. The -house was famed for its library of ancient manuscripts, chiefly Welsh, -which has been removed to Mostyn Hall. At the distance of a mile is -BODYSGALLEN, the seat of Miss Mostyn. It is a place of great antiquity; -the situation is commanding, and finely shaded by venerable woods. -Archbishop Williams, a native of Conway, who succeeded the illustrious -Lord Bacon in the office of Lord High Chancellor of England, died at -Gloddaeth, A.D. 1650. - -Another excursion made by Mr. Bingley was up the vale of Conway, leading -on the road to Llanrwst. Having passed the village of Gyffin, he found -the vale of Conway to afford many very interesting prospects. CAER RHUN -(the Fort of Rhun) lies at the distance of five miles. It is a charming -little village, on the western bank of the river, surrounded with wood. -To this site has generally been assigned the ancient Roman Conovium. In -the summer of 1801, the late Rev. H. D. Griffith had many apartments -cleared, where were discovered several broken vases, dishes, &c. From -the road, near the bridge, called Pont Porthlwyd, about eight miles from -Conway, high up the mountain on the left, is a waterfall of very -considerable height, called in the neighbourhood Rhaiadr Mawr (the great -waterfall.) Mr. Bingley ascended along a winding path, which conducted -him to the bed of the river, near the station, whence he saw it to the -best advantage. The water runs from a pool among the mountains, called -Llyn Eigiau. He pronounces this waterfall the grandest and most -picturesque of any he had seen in North Wales. - -For angling station, see Llanrwst. - - - -CORWEN. -(_Merionethshire_.) - -Bala 12 -Chester 33 -Denbigh 20 -Holyhead 67 -Llangollen 10 -London 193 -Ruthin 12 -Pentre Voelas 15 - -Corwen (the White Choir) is a small market-town on the London and -Holyhead road, situated at the foot of the Berwyn mountains, on the bank -of the Dee. The population (2199) is principally employed in -agriculture. There is a good inn here, exhibiting the gigantic features -of Owen Glyndwr, the renowned and formidable opponent of Henry the -Fourth. - -Within the church, under an arch on the north side of the altar, there is -a very ancient coffin-lid, in high preservation, bearing the following -inscription, “Hic jacet Jorwerth Sulien, vicarius de Corvaen; ora pro -eo.” There is also a fine cross fixed in a circular stone to the west of -the steeple. The name of Corwen, corrupted from Corvaen, is probably -derived from the cross: _cor_, signifying a circle, and _maen_, which is -changed into _vaen_ when joined with _cor_, is The Stone or Cross in the -Circle. - -The house of the celebrated Owen Glyndwr was situated in this parish, but -not a vestige of it is now left: the site is marked by a clump of fir -trees, on the left of the Llangollen road, about three miles from Corwen. -At Rhug, within a mile and a half of the town, stands the elegant seat of -Colonel Vaughan.—Rhagatt, the mansion of Edward Lloyd, Esq., is also -situated in the parish, and within two miles of the town. - -The roads in this district are excellent; the Shrewsbury and Holyhead -mail runs through the town. There are also two good lines of road hence -to Bala; that by Llandrillo leads through the vale of Edeyrnion, which is -one of the most beautiful in Wales, the road very excellent, with -scarcely a hill in its course; the other by the Druid, 12 miles, commands -a very fine view of Bala lake, and the surrounding hills. There is -likewise a very good road, 12 miles, to Ruthin. - -Upon the Berwyn mountains, behind the church, is a place called Glyndwr’s -Seat, whence is a most charming and extensive prospect, which may be -reached without fatigue. The rich and delightful vale of Corwen expands -beneath, with the Dee in the centre. Here Glyndwr might view nearly -forty square miles of his own land. - -Near to Corwen is the site of an ancient British encampment, called Caer -Drwyn; it is on the summit of a hill, and protected by a circular wall, -about one mile in circumference: and within are the ruins of a circular -fort. It is supposed to be one of the chain of posts from Dyserth to -Cynwyd, and formed in olden times a stronghold. Owen Gwynedd occupied it -in the days of Henry the Second. - -The tourist remaining at Corwen, who has any relish for angling, may -readily obtain all the necessary tackle in the town, at a low charge, and -will find good fishing between Corwen and Llan-St.-Ffraid bridges, two or -three miles, and at Llandrillo, about five miles from Corwen. - -This district was visited by a most desolating flood, caused by heavy -rains, in the summer of 1846. - - - -CRICAETH, -(_Caernarvonshire_.) - -Beddgelert 11 -Caernarvon 20 -London 240 -Pwllheli 8 - -Cricaeth, a little borough town, contributory to Caernarvon, with 811 -inhabitants, is very irregularly built. Except the remains of its small -castle, it contains nothing which can claim the attention of the -traveller. This ruin stands on a rising ground, at the end of a long -neck of land, jutting into the sea. The entrance into it is between two -round towers; the others being all square. Edward the First is said to -have founded this castle; and it was once the residence of -Howel-y-Fwyall, who captured the king of France at the battle of -Poictiers. It is stated that the Welsh warrior struck off the head of -the king’s horse with a battle-axe, and then secured the monarch. The -event is thus recorded by one of the native bards:— - - “Pan roddodd - Y ffrwyn ymhen Brenin Ffrainc.” - -The Black Prince made Howel constable of this castle, granting him a -guard of eighty yeomen at the royal charge, and a mess of meat to be -served up daily before his pole-axe. - -The church, dedicated to St. Catherine, is a spacious structure, but in a -very neglected state. - -From the eminence on which the castle stands, is a beautiful view across -Cardigan bay towards Harlech, where is seen its fine old castle, backed -by the high and distant mountains of Merionethshire. - - - -DENBIGH. - -Abergele 13 -Chester 28 -Conway 25 -Corwen 20 -Holywell 14 -Llanrwst 22 -London by Chester 214 -— by Shrewsbury 206 -Mold 16 -Ruthin 8 -St. Asaph 6 -Bodfary 4 - -Denbigh, the capital of the county, is situated on the declivity of a -craggy hill, in the vale of Clwyd. This place was originally named by -the Welsh Castell Caled-Vryn-yn-Rhôs (the Castle on the Craggy Hill in -Rhôs), from the prominent situation of the castle in the ancient -territory of that name. By the parliamentary returns of 1841, the -population was 3405. The two principal inns are the Bull and the Crown. -Denbigh was formerly accounted a place of great importance, while its -castle and walls were entire; and, about the middle of the sixteenth -century, it was thus celebrated by Churchyard, the poet, in his “Worthies -of Wales:”— - - Denbigh, now appeare, thy turne is next, - I need no gloss, nor shade, to set thee out; - For if my pen doe follow playnest text, - And passe right way, and goe nothing about, - Thou shalt be knowne, as worthie well thou art, - The noblest soyle that is in any part; - And for thy seate, and castle do compare, - With any one in Wales, whate’er they are. - -The town is picturesquely situated on the side of a steep hill, and the -noble ruins of the castle on its summit greatly contribute to its -venerable appearance. Denbigh consists of three principal, and several -smaller streets and lanes, and is well paved and lighted, but only -scantily supplied with water, which is brought from several springs, each -at some distance from the more respectable portions of the town. This -inconvenience is much increased during a continuance of dry weather, at -which time the wells occasionally become exhausted, excepting that termed -the Goblin Well, situated at the foot of the hill on which the castle is -built; this is so copious as to supply a considerable portion of the -town, but the labour of carrying the water up the steep ascent is very -great. Connected with this spring is a cold bath. The environs abound -with beautiful and richly varied scenery. The land in the vicinity is -rich, and in a high state of cultivation; and in the neighbourhood are -numerous splendid seats and elegant villas, inhabited by opulent -families, who have selected Denbigh for their residence on account of the -advantages of its situation. - -The ancient parochial church, dedicated to St. Marcellus, and now in a -very dilapidated condition, is situated in the open valley, at -Whitchurch, {102a} about a mile from the town, from which place the -rectory was transferred by act of parliament to Denbigh, which was made -the head of the parish. In the porch of this church are two monumental -brass effigies, in a kneeling posture, of Richard Myddelton, {102b} of -Gwaunynog, governor of Denbigh Castle in the reigns of Edward VI., Mary, -and Elizabeth; and of his wife Jane, both of whom were here interred. In -the body of the building there is an ill-executed mural monument to the -memory of the learned Welsh antiquary, Humphrey Llwyd, of Foxhall, near -Denbigh, who is represented as kneeling beneath a range of small arches, -and in Spanish costume. There is also a large altar-tomb to the memory -of Sir John Salusbury and his lady, the former of whom died in 1578. A -neat mural monument in the western wall has been erected, by the -Gwyneddigion Society in London, to the memory of Thomas Edwards, of Nant, -commonly called Twm o’r Nant, the celebrated “Cambrian Shakspere,” who -died on the 3rd of April, 1810, at the age of 71, and was interred in the -churchyard. - -All the parochial duties are now performed at the chapel of St. Hilary, -within the walls of the castle, with the exception of funerals, which -still take place at Whitchurch, there being no cemetery attached to the -former. The inhabitants, early in 1838, realized a handsome subscription -to erect a new church, so as to be more convenient, in a contiguous part -of Denbigh parks, the site of which was liberally offered by Captain -Mostyn, R.N. The first stone was laid on the coronation-day of our -beloved sovereign, Queen Victoria. There are places of worship for -Baptists, Independents, Calvinists, and Wesleyan Methodists. The town -also contains a free grammar-school for twenty boys; a blue-coat charity -school, on the foundation of which are twenty-four hoys; a national -school, in which eighty-six boys and one hundred girls are educated. - -Denbigh has a good town-hall, a dispensary, a reading room and a Welsh -literary society. Its chief manufactories are gloves and shoes; the -market is held on Wednesday and Saturday. There is also a branch of the -North and South Wales Bank here. Denbigh is the chief of the -contributory boroughs that send one member to parliament: the present -M.P. is Townshend Mainwaring, Esq., of Marchwiel. - -It is a remarkable circumstance that no specific provision for the insane -poor has been made in any part of North Wales, although the melancholy -records of those afflicted by the loss of reason, prove that the Welsh -are no more exempt from that severe visitation than the mixed races known -as Anglo-Saxon. This circumstance excited the attention of the -philanthropic Mr. Ablett, of Llanbedr, who has most generously presented -twenty acres of land, in the immediate vicinity of Denbigh, for the site -of the building and grounds of an institution to be called the North -Wales Lunatic Asylum, and a subscription amounting to upwards of £6000 -has been realized. The estimate for one commensurate to the wants of -this part of Wales, is from £12,000 to £15,000, and it is proposed that -the rest of the fund shall be contributed by the counties, in whom the -management of the institution shall be vested. - - -The Castle - - -is situated on the summit of the Caled-Vryn, an isolated limestone rock, -rising abruptly to the height of two hundred and forty feet from the -western boundary of the Vale of Clwyd, and incloses an area of -considerable extent; the principal entrance is on the north, under a -lofty and magnificent arch, which is nearly entire, and flanked by two -large towers, now in ruins; above it is a niche, in which is a robed -figure of the founder, Henry Lacey, Earl of Lincoln, in a sitting -posture; the whole of the rooms and towers are in a state of the utmost -dilapidation. The citadel is surrounded with walls, a mile and a quarter -in circumference, which inclose the whole of the ancient town: the -principal entrance is on the north-west, and is defended by two majestic -towers, which are nearly entire; from these the walls extend round the -brow of the hill, on the most elevated and precipitous parts of which -numerous lofty towers have been erected, forming together one of the -strongest bulwarks in the kingdom. Within these walls are the ruins of -the church or chapel, founded by the Earl of Leicester; and the chapel of -St. Hilary, formerly appropriated to the use of the garrison, and now the -parochial church. - -The walls inclose a considerable area, now covered with grass, in which -horses and cattle are depastured. Within the walls of the fortress are -numerous cottages, which materially diminish the interest commonly -excited by such extensive ruins; and on the south-west front of the -castle, and on the boundary wall on this side, are an extensive terrace -and bowling-green, commanding one of the richest and most delightful -views of the fertile Vale of Clwyd, embracing the whole of the eastern -portion of this beautiful and finely varied tract, terminated by the -ocean at Llandudno bay, and on the south by the whole range of Clwydian -mountains, with their numerous camps and tumuli. On this delightful spot -the congress of bards and minstrels, called the grand Eisteddfod, was -held on the 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th days of September, 1828: it was -honoured by the presence of his royal highness the Duke of Sussex, and -most of the nobility and gentry of the surrounding country. The -bowling-green, in the midst of the ruins, is well worth a visit; it is -laid out with considerable taste.—Within two miles of Denbigh is - - -Gwaunynog, - - -which was visited by Dr. Johnson, during his residence with Mrs. Piozzi: -the estate was at that time in the possession of his friend, the Rev. Dr. -Myddelton. In the hall is still retained an easy chair, in which Dr. -Johnson was accustomed to sit. On the grounds, a short distance from the -house, in a very retired situation, overhung with trees, is a monument to -his memory, bearing the following inscription:— - - SAMUEL JOHNSON, LL. D. - OBIT 13 DIE DECEMBRIS, - ANNO DOMINO 1784, - ÆTATIS 75. - -And on the other side, on a marble tablet,—“This spot was often dignified -by the presence of Samuel Johnson, LL.D., whose moral writings, exactly -conformable to the precepts of Christianity, give ardour to virtue, and -confidence to truth.” Over a door of a cottage on the estate are the -following lines, the composition of the learned lexicographer:— - - Around this peaceful cot, his humble shed, - If health, if confidence, if virtue tread, - Though no proud column grace the gaudy door, - Where sculptured elegance parades it o’er; - Nor pomp without, nor pageantry within, - Nor splendid shew, nor ornament is seen; - The swain shall look with pity on the great, - Nor barter quiet for a king’s estate. - - 1768. - -Near to this place is the village of Henllan, about two miles from which -is Llanefydd, leading to the Aled and Elwy vales. - - - -DINAS MOWDDWY, -(_Merionethshire_.) - -Bala 18 -Dolgelley 10 -Llangollen 40 -Machynlleth 13½ -Mallwyd 1½ - -Dinas Mowddwy is an inconsiderable town, in the parish of Mallwyd, -pleasantly situated on the shelf of a rock called Craig-y-Ddinas, near -the margin of the small river Cerrist, at its conflux with the Dovey, and -on the road from Dolgelley to Mallwyd, at the junction of three vales, -each of which is inclosed by lofty mountains: it consists chiefly of one -street. The principal building is the “Plâs,” or mansion, being the -manor house of the lordship of Mowddwy, which from an early period -belonged to the Myttons of Halston, but was lately purchased by a Mr. -Bird, of Birmingham. - -Slates, of an inferior quality, are dug from the adjacent rocks, for the -use of the neighbouring country. - - -DINORWIC (PORT) - - -Is situate about half way between Bangor and Caernarvon, and is the -shipping place for the Llanberis quarries, belonging to T. Assheton -Smith, Esq., of Vaenol. Upwards of one hundred tons per day are loaded -at the wharf, and the railway by which they are conveyed is an object of -considerable interest. - - - -DISERTH, -(_Flintshire_.) - -Holywell 9 -Rhuddlan 2½ -St. Asaph 5 - -The church of this village stands in a romantic situation, overshadowed -with several large yews. There are some good paintings in the south -window, and in the chancel is inscribed, “Sir John Conway, 1636.” The -yard contains some singular tomb-stones; two in particular have a -semi-circular stone upon their tops: also an ancient cross, adorned with -wreaths, and another with some traces of a human figure, now inserted -into the situation as a style. The latter is supposed to be the remains -of Cross Einion, which was erected on the spot where Einion, son of Risid -Flaidd, was slain, at one of the sieges which the castle sustained. - -The castle, called sometimes Gerri Castle, (or Castell y Graig,) stands -on the summit of a high lime-stone rock, at the distance of half a mile -from the village; its remains consist of a few shattered fragments only. -In a field a little to the south, is a ruinous building called Siamber -Wen, (the White Hall,) said to have been the house of Sir — Pounderling, -a valiant knight, who was constable of the castle, and whose tomb is -still to be seen in Dinmeirchion church. Cwm church, about a mile -distant, is surrounded with hills, and commands a view of the Vale of -Clwyd. - -From the top of one of the hills that surrounds the village issues a -water, forming a beautiful cascade, which rises from a small well, culled -Ffynnon-asa, (or St. Asaph’s Well,) in a dingle in Cwm parish. The -height of the cascade is 17 yards, concealed between two arches of the -rock, behind which it has worn a passage. - - - -DOLGELLEY, -(_Merionethshire_.) - -Bala 18 -Barmouth 10 -Chester 57 -London 212 -Machynlleth 16 -Maen Twrog 18 -Towyn 17 -Trawsfynedd 12 - -Dolgelley (the Dale of the Hazel) is the principal market town in -Merionethshire, where the assizes are held alternately with Bala. It is -situated in a wide and fertile vale, upon the river Wnion, over which is -a stone bridge of seven arches, erected in 1638, but thoroughly repaired -and enlarged some years ago. The town is surrounded by high and, in many -parts, wooded mountains. - -There are many well-built houses, including a good range, fronted by -shops, called Eldon Row, the property of Sir Robert Vaughan; but in -general the houses are erected with such extreme irregularity in regard -to each other, as to convey but a mean idea of the projector’s good -taste. The principal building is the county hall, situated near the -river; it is a neat stone edifice, erected in 1825, at an expense of -£3000. The court room is handsomely fitted up with necessary -accommodations for the officers of justice. In the hall is a splendid -portrait of Sir R. W. Vaughan, Bart. painted by Sir M. A. Shee, P.R.A. - -The county gaol, situated at the outskirts of the town, is a semicircular -edifice of stone, built in 1811, at an expense of nearly £5000; it -includes also the house of correction, and comprises three day rooms, and -four airing yards, and will admit of a classification of the prisoners -into five divisions. Part of the building in which a parliament was held -by Owen Glyndwr, is still standing among a group of old houses, having -the post-office in front, near the Ship Inn, and is called Cwrt Plâs yn y -Drêv (the town hall court). - -The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a neat structure built of -lime-stone, in the Grecian style of architecture, having a handsome tower -and large nave. There is an ancient monument of an armed knight; he is -represented as clad in close mail, wearing a helmet and neck guard, with -a sword in his hand and a dog at his feet, and a lion passant gardant on -his shield, on which is inscribed, “Hic jacet Mauric, filius Ynyr -Vychan.” There is also a handsome monument lately erected to the memory -of Baron Richards, who was a native of this parish. In 1836, a neat -monument was also erected to the memory of the late Rev. John Jones, A.M. -Archdeacon of Merioneth. Service is performed here in the English -language, on every alternate Sunday, in the afternoon. The celebrated -antiquary, Robert Vaughan, of Hengwrt, was buried in this church. - -This place has long been noted for the manufacture of coarse woollen -cloth or flannel, called webs, in which a considerable number of persons -are at present employed. There are several good inns, the Golden Lion, -the Angel, and the Ship, at all of which guides may be obtained to Cader -Idris and the waterfalls. There are also three banks here: the old -Dolgelley bank, a branch of the North and South Wales, and a branch of -the National Provincial.—About three miles from Dolgelley, on the -Machynlleth road, is Caerynwch, the seat of Richard Richards, Esq. M.P. -for this county. - -The town is seen to the greatest advantage at the distance of about two -miles, on the Machynlleth road; but, like in other Welsh towns, is only -pleasing at a distance. The prospects from a spot called the -Bowling-green are singularly fine. The threatening summit of Cader -Idris, the northern ascent to which appears nearly perpendicular, lends -its mountain sublimity; a train of subordinate inequalities, stretching -their rugged eminences along its base. But if the town affords so little -to gratify the curiosity of the inquisitive tourist, its neighbourhood -abounds with objects of the most interesting character. Sir H. Hoare -asserts, that he “knows of no place in the Principality whence so many -pleasing and interesting excursions may be made, and where nature bears -so rich, varied, and grand an aspect, as at Dolgelley.” - -A new road leading from Dolgelley to Towyn was recently opened, by which -the very hilly and dangerous route through Llanegryn is entirely avoided. -It passes by Penmaen Pool, Abergwynnant (the mansion of Sir H. Bunbury), -Garthangharad, Arthog, Ynysfaig, and Henddol, through the village of -Llwyngiul, where there is a very comfortable inn, called the -Garthangharad Arms. From the bridge by Abergwynnant, a most magnificent -view of Cader Idris presents itself; and in going along the sea-coast -opposite to Barmouth, there is a delightful view of Cardigan Bay, Bardsey -Island, and the Caernarvonshire mountains. The variety, beauty, and -extent of prospects on this road are not surpassed in any part of the -Principality. The highway from Barmouth ferry comes into this road by -Ynysfaig. - -The waterfalls in this vicinity are interesting attractions to the -tourist: these are _Rhaiadr Dû_ (the Black Cataract); -_Rhaiadr-y-Mawddach_ (the Fall of the river Mawddach); _Pistyll-y-Cain_ -(the Fall of the Cain). The first is about five, the two latter about -eight miles from Dolgelley, and all of them near the high road leading -towards Maentwrog. These falls may be classed among the most magnificent -and picturesque cataracts of the Principality. - - -Y Vanner, or Kymmer Abbey, - - -Stands in its mouldering desolation about a mile and a half from -Dolgelley, and half a mile from Llanilltyd, near the banks of the Maw. -The ruins may be visited by the pedestrian, in his way to the waterfalls. -The abbey was founded in 1198, by Meredith and Griffith, lords of -Merioneth. The monks were of the Cistercian order, and the abbey was -dedicated to St. Mary. Part only of the church of this monastery is -left, and the refectory and abbot’s lodgings are built into an adjoining -farm-house. - -Within a few hundred yards of the village of Llanilltyd, in this parish, -on the right of the road from Dolgelley, stands Hengwrt, the property of -Colonel Vaughan, of Rhûg, formerly the residence of Robert Vaughan, Esq. -the eminent antiquary, author of British Antiquities Revived and other -learned works. The library here contains the largest collection of Welsh -MSS. in existence. It was principally from the MSS. in this library that -Aneurin Owen, Esq. compiled his able Digest of the Old Welsh Laws. - - -Nassau Park. - - -About two miles from Dolgelley, is an ancient seat, formerly belonging to -the Nannau family, but now the property and residence of Sir Robert -Williames Vaughan, Bart. - -The grounds of Nannau are entered under a fine gateway, the house being a -mile distant from the entrance to the park; which for picturesque beauty -and the calm grandeur of rural scenery, is not surpassed by any domain in -the Principality. Some romantic traditions also confer additional -interest on this charming scene. In the higher part are the remains of a -British post, called Moel Orthrwm (or the Hill of Oppression), having -probably been held by some notorious tyrant of the olden time. Here also -once stood an immense oak, blasted and hollowed by time, in which, -according to popular belief, Owen Glyndwr inhumed the fresh-bleeding -corpse of his treacherous cousin, Howel Sele, who had been bribed to make -an attempt upon his life, where it remained concealed for forty years. -In Pennant’s time, the trunk of this patriarchal tree was twenty-seven -feet and a half in circumference; it was in the last stage of decay, and -pierced by age into the form of a Gothic arch. Its end is thus described -by Sir Richard Colt Hoare: “During a visit to Sir Robert Vaughan, in the -summer of the year 1813, this aged tree, mentioned by Mr. Pennant, -attracted my notice; and in the morning of the 13th of July, I made a -drawing of it, on one of the most sultry days I ever felt; the succeeding -night was equally hot, and on the same night this venerable oak fell to -the ground.” - -The gardens at Nannau are very extensive, and laid out with excellent -taste: they contain a number of choice exotics, and an inspection of them -proves a source of never-failing gratification to every lover of -horticultural pursuits. - - -Angling Stations. - - _Distances from Dolgelley_. _Miles_. -Traws-vynydd, on the Bychan 12 -Llanvachreth 3½ -Hendre Llwyngwr, (S. W.) 11 -Pont Dolgefiliau, on the Mawddach, (N.) 8 -Dol-y-gamedd, on the Wnion 3½ -Llyn Cregenan, (S. W.) 4 -Llyn Gader 1½ -Llyn Geirw, (S. W.) 5 -Tal-y-llyn, Cader Idris 8 - -FFESTINIOG, -(_Merionethshire_.) - -Caernarvon 25 -Capel Curig 20 -Bala 19 -Maentwrog 2½ -Tan-y-Bwlch 2½ -Tremadoc 13 - -Ffestiniog is a small but increasing village, standing on eminence at the -head of the beautiful vale of Maentwrog. The population amounts to 1648, -principally employed in the slate quarries, about four miles from the -village. The church is built in the ancient style of English -architecture, and dedicated to St. Michael. A gallery has recently been -erected at the west end, containing seventy-two free sittings. There are -also several dissenting places of worship, with Sunday schools attached. -A national school for the parishes of Ffestiniog and Maentwrog, was -opened in 1830, in a neat building erected a short distance from the -village on the Maentwrog road. Mrs. Oakeley, of Tan-y-Bwlch, has lately -built and endowed a chapel of ease near the quarries. It is intended for -the convenience of the inhabitants of the houses that have been built in -the vicinity of the quarries, which are upwards of four miles distant -from the parish church. - -There are two good inns, the Pengwern Arms, and the Newborough Arms; at -the former, cars and post horses may be obtained; there is likewise -attached to it a very comfortable boarding-house, kept by Miss Owen. -There is a branch of the North and South Wales bank here. The roads in -this neighbourhood have, of late, been much improved. A rail road it now -completed for the conveyance of slates to Port Madoc, a distance of about -fourteen miles. - -The scenery of Ffestiniog closely resembles that of St. Helena, and -particularly Sandy Hook Cove. The vale which gives celebrity to this -village has been eulogized by many distinguished travellers. Mr. Pennant -calls it the “Tempê of the country.” Mr. Warner observes, “that it -comprehends every object that can enrich or diversify a landscape.” Mr. -Wyndham affirms, that “it affords as rich studies for the painter, as the -neighbourhood of Tivoli or Frascati.” And Lord Lyttelton, who visited -the place about the year 1756, is still more lavish in his encomiums. -More recent travellers have been equally enthusiastic in their admiration -of this pleasant locality.—About half a mile from Ffestiniog are the - - -Falls of the Cynvael. - - -One of these is about three hundred yards above, and the other three -hundred yards below a rustic stone bridge, three quarters of a mile -distant. The upper fall consists of three steep rocks, over which the -water foams into a deep black basin, overshadowed by the adjoining rocks. -The other is formed by a broad sheet of water, precipitated down a -slightly shelving rock, about 40 feet high. After the water has reached -the bottom of the deep concavity, it rushes along a narrow rocky chasm, -where rolling amid the shaggy rocks, it glistens among the scattered -fragments, and falling from slope to slope, gains a smoother bed, and -steals among the mazes of the vale. In the pools below these falls, -there is excellent fishing, the trout and salmon being very numerous. -Between the lower cataract and the bridge is a tall columnar rock, which -stands in the bed of the river, called _Pulpit Hugh Llwyd Cynvael_ (or -Hugh Lloyd’s Pulpit.) - -There are few vales which afford such delightful prospects. Many of the -high mountains bounding its sides, are shaded by oaks, and the serpentine -Dwyryd steals placidly along the bottom through rich cultivated fields. -This river, at the bottom of the valley, receives the tide, and expands -into a wide lake-like channel, called Traeth Bychan, where it flows -through the sandy estuary of Traeth Bach, and into Cardigan bay, the sea -at a distance closing the view. - -The village of MAENTWROG is delightfully situated near the middle of the -vale.—About four miles distant, among the hills, is - - -Cwm-orddin Lake. - - -This and several other lakes are notable for the excellent sport they -afford for angling. Of these, a gentleman who is fond of this diversion, -and who has visited those parts, has kindly furnished us with the -following information:—“The fish in Cwm-orddin Lake (says he) rise more -eagerly to flies than any I ever saw. The fish are rather small, and not -good for the table. The two best stations for angling, are, first, where -the boat is kept; second, the head of the lake. Throw among the weeds, -fearlessly, as they always come away with a pull. - - -Llyn Morwynion, - - -Contains excellent fish, both in size and quality, but they are very shy: -it is about two miles from Ffestiniog, near the Capel Curig road.—No -boat. - - -Llyn Maonod, - - -About two miles and a half from Ffestiniog, contains most excellent -trout, far less shy than those of Morwynion. No boat.—There is a small -lake just below the summit of Moel Wyn, which may be tried by any one -wishing to combine a fine extensive view with sport. No boat.—Llyn -Conway is at times difficult of access round its banks, being marshy. No -boat.—There are two or three lakes on the right of the road to Bala. My -opinion is, that without a boat the angler will do little on a lake. I -would recommend, therefore, a very long rod when you must fish from -shore. There is good salmon fishing in the river that runs past -Maentwrog. In the beginning of June, I found the sand fly excellent for -the lakes.” - - - -FLINT, -(_Flintshire_.) - -Chester 14 -Holywell 5 -London 200 -Mold 6 - -Flint is a borough, market-town, and sea-port, and a parochial chapelry -in the parish of Northop, and is the ancient capital of the county: it -contains a population of 2860 inhabitants. Although it cannot be -identified with any Roman station mentioned in the Itineraries, it was -nevertheless either of Roman or Roman-British origin, as is proved from -the circumstance of its even now occupying a rectangular entrenched area, -like that of a Roman place of defence, and by the discovery, at various -times, both here and in the neighbourhood, of Roman coins, fibulæ, &c., -while at the same time it is traditionally related that a very large town -existed here at an early period. - -The town is situated on the shore of the estuary of the Dee, opposite to -Parkgate, to which ferry-boats ply daily from Flint. It consists of four -principal streets, crossing each other at right angles; the buildings, -however, are very inferior in appearance. The town-hall, and gaol where -the county prisoners are kept, are tolerable structures, but the assizes -are held at Mold, six miles distant. Close to the town are extensive -collieries, in which several hundred men are constantly employed, and -1,500 tons of coal are raised weekly: rail-roads have been constructed to -convey the coal to the wharfs, whence it is sent coastwise to Chester, -and to various parts of North Wales. The principal exports, in addition -to the vast quantity of coal, are the produce of the lead works in the -vicinity, consisting of lead in pigs, bars, sheets, and patent pipes; red -lead, litharge, and silver. - -For the convenience of persons who visit Flint, hot baths have been -constructed, and are provided with every requisite accommodation. The -Royal Oak and the Ship may be considered inns of the second order. The -government of the town was vested in a mayor, the constable of the castle -(appointed by letters patent), two bailiffs, a recorder, and twelve -capital burgesses, assisted by a mace-bearer, and other officers, elected -annually, until the municipal Reform Act superseded the charters. It is -one of the contributory boroughs, which, in conjunction with Caergwrle, -Caerwys, Overton, Rhuddlan, St. Asaph, Holywell, and Mold, return one -member to parliament. There are daily ferry-boats plying between Flint -and Chester, at the low rate of six-pence for each passenger. - - -The Castle. - - -The remains of this ancient structure stand upon a rock in the marsh at -the bottom of the town, and so near the river, that at high water the -walls are washed by the tide. It has been a square building, with a -tower at each angle, considerable remains of every one of which are yet -left. The tower at the south-east corner, which is called the Double -Tower, is much larger than the others. In its outward diameter it -measures forty feet; it is formed by two concentric walls, each six feet -thick, having a gallery eight feet wide included between them, and -leaving a circular area of about twenty feet in diameter, into which -there was an entry from the gallery by four doors. This appears to have -been the keep. The interior of the castle is a square court, containing -about an acre of ground. In the curtain on the west side, there are yet -left several windows with pointed arches. - -Antiquarians are undecided as to the founder of Flint castle, some -asserting that it was commenced by Henry the Second, and completed by -Edward the First; while others affirm that it was entirely the work of -the latter. It was alternately in possession of the Welsh and English -princes during the various vicissitudes which distinguished the wars of -that period; and in 1399 was the scene of the betrayal of the unfortunate -monarch, Richard the Second, by Percy, Earl of Northumberland, into the -power of his ambitious rival, Bolingbroke, the “aspiring Lancaster.” -Under the insidious pretence that Bolingbroke, who was waiting for the -king at Flint, desired only to have his property restored, and that the -kingdom should have a parliament, Northumberland met Richard at Conway, -where he had gone after his return from Ireland; and they were journeying -together, when, among the recesses of the mountains near Penmaen Rhôs, -the latter observed a band of soldiers. Alarmed for his safety, and now -fearful of the snare that was laid for him, he attempted to return; but -Percy, springing forward, caught his horse’s bridle, and forcibly -directed his course. They dined together at Rhuddlan castle, and arrived -on the same evening at Flint. The next day, “after dinner, (says Stowe) -the Duke of Lancaster entered the castle all armed, his basinet excepted. -King Richard came down to meet him; and the duke, as soon as he saw the -king, fell down on his knees, and coming near unto him, he kneeled a -second time with his hat in his hand; and the king then put off his -hoode, and spoke first: ‘Fair cousin of Lancaster, you are right -welcome.’ The duke, bowing low to the ground, answered, ‘My lord, I am -come before you sent for me; the reason why I shall shew you. The common -fame among your people is such, that ye have for the space of twenty or -two-and-twenty years, ruled them very rigorously; but, if it please our -lord, I will help you to govern better!’ The duke then, with a high -sharp voice, bade bring forth the king’s horses, and two little nagges, -not worth fourtie franks, were brought forthe: the king was set on the -one, and the Earl of Salisbury on the other; and thus the duke brought -them from Flint to Chester;” whence, after a night’s rest, they were -marched to London, and made a public entry into the metropolis, under -those moving circumstances which are so exquisitely narrated by Shakspere -in his tragedy of Richard the Second. - -In the civil wars, Flint castle was garrisoned for the king, by Sir Roger -Mostyn, and was defended with great bravery, but was at last surrendered -to General Mytton. In August, 1646, it was ordered to be dismantled, -with Hawarden and several other fortresses, and has since fallen into -utter decay, though its ruins present towards the sea a somewhat imposing -appearance. - - - -GRESFORD, -(_Denbighshire_.) - -Chester 8 -Wrexham 3 - -Gresford is a beautiful village, situated on the western side of the road -from Wrexham to Chester, near the head of a romantic valley, which opens -into the Vale Royal of Cheshire, a tract of country remarkable for the -richness of its soil, the beauty of its scenery, and the diversified -views which it presents. The little vale of Gresford was one of the most -lovely in the Principality; but the fiery dragons of the Shrewsbury and -Chester Railway have now invaded its tranquil retreats, and marred the -picturesque charms of this locality. - -On one of the richly wooded eminences overlooking the vale, stands -Gresford Church, a truly noble and admirable specimen of ecclesiastical -architecture, in the late perpendicular style, which was probably built -during the latter part of the reign of Henry the Seventh. No tourist, -who has the least taste for ecclesiology, should neglect to examine this -sacred edifice, which exhibits in its construction a combination of -beauties that never fail to command the eulogiums of the intelligent and -discriminating. Its appearance is also much enhanced by the scenery -around it, and those only who are familiar with the vicinity can feel how -admirably the church harmonises with the country. Its melodious peal of -bells was once reckoned among the seven wonders of North Wales; but -wonders since those days have become more plentiful, and some people say -the peal is actually deteriorated. In the churchyard is a remarkable yew -tree, 30 feet in girth, which botanists say is more than 2000 years old. -This tree attracts even as much notice as the church itself. - -Deeply sheltered in the vale, is Gresford Lodge, the elegant seat of Mrs. -W. Egerton. Upper Gwersyllt Hall, on the banks of the Alyn, was the -residence of Colonel Robinson, a distinguished partizan of the -unfortunate Charles the First, who was interred in Gresford church in -1680. Lower Gwersyllt was occupied by another zealous adherent of that -prince, Jefferey Shakerley. - -From the top of Marford Hill, on the road towards Chester, is a most -magnificent and extensive view of the vale of Cheshire, the “old city,” -and the river Dee. In the immediate vicinity of the village, is an -eminence called the Rofts, formerly a British camp, treble-trenched, -having at one corner a lofty mount or keep. - -Angling station.—The river Alyn. - - - -HANMER, -(_Flintshire_.) - -Ellesmere 5 -Wrexham 10 - -This village, which forms a detached portion of Flintshire, takes its -name from a spacious mere or lake, in form resembling a human hand, on -one side of which the village is pleasantly situated. It stands on the -road betwixt Wrexham and Whitchurch. The lake occupies a space of 73 -acres, on one side of which stands the family mansion of Sir John Hanmer, -and on the other the seat of Lord Kenyon. In the church is a handsome -monument, erected in 1806, to the memory of Lord Chief Justice Kenyon, -who was born at Gredington, in the vicinity. There is another monument -in honour of Sir Thomas Hanmer, who was Speaker of the House of Commons -in the reign of Queen Anne. - -Hanmer is distinguished by the Welsh, as being the birthplace of their -celebrated bard, Davydd ab Edmund, who at an Eisteddvod, held at -Caermarthen, in 1451, won the bardic chair, and through his superior -eloquence obtained the sanction of that congress to his twenty-four -canons of Welsh poetry, by which the “science” has, in a great measure, -been governed ever since. - - - -HARLECH, -(_Merionethshire_.) - -Barmouth 10 -London 229 -Maen-Twrog 10 -Penmorfa, across sands 12 -Tan-y-Bwlch 10 -Tremadoc, across sands 10 -Do. through Tan-y-Bwlch 20 - -Harlech, or Harddlech, is an inconsiderable place, situated upon a barren -rock, containing four or five hundred inhabitants; it is the county town -of Merionethshire, and all elections for a representative in parliament -take place here. Its name is derived from its situation, originally -called Twr Bronwen, and afterwards Caer Collwyn, from Collwyn ap Tagno, -who resided there about 877. Harlech castle stands on a rocky eminence, -close by the marshy tract between the hills and Cardigan bay, bearing it -is said a strong resemblance to the Turkish castle of Belgrade. It -consists of one large square building, each side measuring about 70 -yards, having a round tower at the several corners, crowned with turrets -now nearly defaced. The walls, now clad with ivy, are lofty and of great -thickness, from the summit of which a most splendid and sublime prospect -may be commanded, including a vast extent of marine and mountain scenery. - -According to ancient history, this castle was built by Maelgwyn Gwynedd, -Prince of North Wales, about 530, and Edward I. founded the present -fortress upon the ruins of the old building. It was completed in 1283. -In 1404, this castle, with that of Aberystwyth, was seized by Owen -Glyndwr, during his contest with Henry IV. They were both retaken, about -four years afterwards, by an army which the king despatched into Wales. -Margaret of Anjou, the haughty queen of Henry VI., after the king’s -defeat at Northampton, in 1460, fled from Coventry, and found an asylum -in this fortress. - -In the civil wars of Charles I. Harlech castle was the last in North -Wales which held out for the king. Near this place is a curious antique -monument, called Coeten Arthur, or King Arthur’s Quoit, which is a large -flat stone, lying horizontally, supported by two others. The supporters -are about twenty inches square, two of them are eight feet high, and the -incumbent stone, inclining to an oval, is eleven feet in length. Col. -Vaughan, of Rhûg, is constable of the castle. - -In the winter of 1694, this neighbourhood was greatly alarmed by a kind -of fiery exhalation, or mephitic vapour, which arose from a sandy marshy -tract of land, called Morfa Bychan (the little marsh), across the -channel, eight miles towards Harlech, and injured much of the country, by -poisoning the grass in such a manner as to kill the cattle, and to set -fire to hay and corn ricks for near a mile from the coast. It is -represented to have had the appearance of a weak blue flame, which by any -noise, such as the firing of guns, or the sounding of a horn, was easily -extinguished. All the damage was done invariably in the night, and in -the course of the winter not less than sixteen hay ricks and two barns, -one filled with corn and the other with hay, were burnt by it. It did -not appear to affect anything else, and the men could go into it without -receiving any injury. It was observed at different times during eight -months. The occasion of this singular phenomenon has never been -satisfactorily accounted for. - -In 1692, a golden torque, which is now placed amongst the admirable -collection of Welsh antiquities at Mostyn, was discovered near Harlech. -It is in the form of a wreathed bar of gold, highly polished, twisted, -and flexible. It is hooked at both ends, and about four feet long. - -From Harlech an excursion may be made to Cwm Bychan (the little hollow), -about four miles distant.—One mile from the town may be seen a circle of -stones, thirty yards in diameter, probably one of those druidic circles -in which were held the _gorseddau_, or bardic meetings. Cwm Bychan is a -grassy dell, about half a mile in length, surrounded by desolate scenery. -On the right, at its entrance, is the small pool called Llyn y Cym -Bychan, from the edge of which Carreg y Saeth (the Rock of the Arrow), -towers in dreary blackness; yet the landscape extends hence in great -magnificence. Descending into the hollow, past an ancient mansion, and -ascending on the other side, a deep mountain hollow occurs, called Bwlch -Tyddiad. Passing upon this rocky cleft beyond the higher mountains, a -fine prospect of all the country eastward suddenly opens, bounded by the -majestic Cader Idris, the two Arrenigs, and other ranges of commanding -grandeur. - -Out of the track, two miles south of Harlech, is a cromlech, in a farm -called Gwern Einion; and on the side of the hill, where the road passes, -in the recesses of a wood, is a considerable cataract. Between the -cromlech and the town of Harlech is another druidic circle. - -At the ebb of the tide, part of a long stone wall, which runs out into -the sea from Machran, a point of land a few miles south of Harlech, may -be seen. It extends in a W.S.W. direction for nearly twenty miles, and -is called Sarn Badrig, or Sarn Badrwyg (the Shipwrecking Causeway), an -astonishing work, being throughout 24 feet thick. Sarn y Bwlch runs from -a point N.W. of Harlech, and is supposed to meet the end of this. The -space between is said to have formed, several centuries ago, a habitable -hundred of Merionethshire, called Cantref Gwaelod (the Lowland Hundred). -Those walls, as it is supposed, were built to keep out the sea. - -The principal inn is the Blue Lion, where post chaises may be had, and a -guide procured to conduct the tourist to the many objects of attraction -in the neighbourhood. The parish church having become very dilapidated, -a new one, more conveniently situated, has been built, on a site given by -the late Sir R. W. Vaughan, of Nannau. It was consecrated in 1841; the -expense of its erection being defrayed by subscriptions, aided by grants -from the Incorporated Society for building and repairing Churches, and -from the Bangor Diocesan Church Building Society. The service is -occasionally performed in the English language. - - -Angling Stations. - - _Distance from Harlech_. _Miles_. -Llanvihangel, on the Dwyryd 5 -Llanbedr, on the Bychan 3 -_Lakes_.—Llyn y Vedw near the Dwyryd. - Llyn Eidaw - Llyn Glyn - Llyn y Cym Bychan 5 - Llyn Trewyn. - -HAWARDEN, -(_Flintshire_.) - -Chester 7 -Flint 8 -Holywell 11 -Northop 5 - -This prosperous little town, pronounced Harden, consists of one -continuous street, more than half a mile long, and has a neat and cleanly -appearance. The British name was _Pennardd __Halawg_, or -_Pennardd-y-Lâg_, corrupted probably from _Pen-y-Lwch_ (the head-land -above the lake), the surrounding marshes having been once covered by the -sea. It has a weekly market and the population of the parish is rated at -somewhat above 6000 inhabitants. The Glynne Arms is the principal inn -where the traveller may be comfortably accommodated. - -Extensive collieries are worked in this parish, and there are also -several large brick and tile works, besides numerous potteries for the -manufacture of the coarser kind of earthenware. An extensive foundry is -carried on at Hawarden by Messrs. Williams & Co., and has become -celebrated for the manufacture of steam-engines, iron steam-boats, and -other works of mechanical science which modern enterprise has brought -into active requisition. The river Dee, or Chester channel, passes -within about two miles of the town, and thus affords every facility of -water conveyance. - -The living is a “peculiar,” in the patronage of Sir S. R. Glynne, and of -which the Rev. H. Glynne is the rector. Its value, according to the -“Liber Ecelesiasticus,” is £2844. The church, dedicated to St. Deiniol, -is an ancient and spacious structure, with a square embattled tower. It -was thoroughly repaired in 1764, and the chancel was almost entirely -rebuilt in 1817, at an expense of £1400, jointly defrayed by the Hon. and -Rev. George Neville Grenville, then rector, the late Lord Amesbury, and -the inhabitants. Various restorations and improvements have also been -effected by the present rector. - -Hawarden has likewise the advantage of an endowed grammar school. The -parish is very extensive, and besides the church just noticed, contains -three others; all in admirable condition, and remarkable for the -exemplary order and efficiency with which the services of our holy -liturgy are solemnized. There is one at Broughton, another at Buckley, -which has lately been repaired and beautified; and a third at -Pen-y-mynydd, which is an elegant and perfect specimen of architecture. -It was built at the cost of Sir S. R. Glynne, Bart. M.P., and was -consecrated in 1843. With each of these churches, commodious schools are -connected; and indeed, the ecclesiastical establishments, within the -peculiar of Hawarden, are worthy of all praise. Hawarden Park, one of -the most charming and picturesque of the many noble domains scattered -through the Principality, is remarkable for the extreme verdure and -softness of its grass, the majestic stateliness of its trees, the calm -solitudes of its glens, and the combined loveliness and sublimity of its -landscape scenery. It is also a spot of much historical interest; as -within its territory, stand the ivy-clad ruins of an ancient castle, -which, in past ages, was a fortress of great importance. - -Little more than fragments of the former towers and keep remain; indeed, -a considerable portion of the ruin was itself obscured by heaps of -rubbish, till the late Sir John Glynne had them removed, and the -foundations laid open to view. It was constructed in a pentagonal form; -on one side was a spacious gateway, and on the other a kind of barbican. -At one angle was situated the keep or citadel, a circular tower still -nearly entire, and which forms one of the most picturesque objects that -strike the eye on first approaching ‘its ancient solitary reign.’ Other -portions consist of the relics of the vast mouldering walls—of massive -_donjons_,—and, in one part, of a long flight of steps, at the bottom of -which was a door and a draw-bridge, crossing a ravine to another division -of the castle, embracing, most probably, the prison, thus fearfully -secured. - -On all sides it was surrounded by deep chasms and fosses, and, from its -extensive plan and broad foundations, it has the appearance of having -been erected at different periods—of having been sometimes defaced and at -others restored, according to the vicissitudes and fortunes of war. - -Dating soon after the Conquest, it came into possession of Roger -Fitzvalerine, a son of one of the adventurers who followed the Norman -Conqueror. It was subsequently held, on the tenure of seneschalship, by -the family of Monthault, of the Earls of Chester, and finally annexed by -Henry the Third to the crown. After this it came into the possession of -Prince Llywelyn, and was stormed by his brother David. On the subjection -of the country, Hawarden was granted to the house of Salisbury, and -afterwards to that of Stanley. From Thomas, Earl of Derby, it descended -to his second wife Margaret, Countess of Richmond, and mother of Henry -the Seventh. In 1495, that monarch is stated to have honoured the castle -with a visit, to enjoy the pleasures of the chase; but his real motive -was to ingratiate himself with the Earl her husband, after the ungrateful -act of executing his brother Sir William Stanley, to whose assistance he -was mainly indebted for the crown. The estates continued in the family -till the execution of James Earl of Derby, in 1651; and, not long after, -they were purchased by Sergeant Glynne, from the Commissioners of -Sequestration. - -It was at Hawarden that the ambitious Earl of Leicester, after securing -the persons of the King and his son Edward, entered into that fatal -league with Llywelyn which compelled Henry to surrender the sovereignty -of Wales, with the homage of its baronial suffrages, which were -transferred to the Welsh prince. In the last struggle for independence, -it was surprised by David, his brother, on the night of Palm Sunday, and -the entire garrison put to the sword. This prince had acted with equal -perfidy towards Edward the First, his benefactor, and towards Llywelyn. - -From the now broken towers of Hawarden, there is a vast and most -magnificent prospect, embracing a wide sweep of country, from the Vale -Royal of Cheshire to the estuaries of the Dee and the Mersey. - -The modern mansion of Hawarden Park, the seat of Sir S. R. Glynne, Bart. -M.P., Lord Lieutenant of Flintshire, is a stately structure, erected by -Sir John Glynne in 1752. In 1809 it received some magnificent additions, -and then assumed the form of a castellated edifice, with antique-looking -windows and turrets. The pleasure-grounds are beautiful and extensive. - -To the west of Hawarden church, in a field near to the turnpike-road, is -an artificial mount of earth, which Mr. Pennant conjectures to have been -a small camp. Tradition says, it was raised as a fortification, to -prevent Henry the Second from advancing by this pass into Wales, in 1157. -The prospects therefrom are delightfully grand, comprehending a view of -Chester and the entire course of the silvery Dee from the old city to the -Irish channel.—About two miles from Hawarden stands - - -Buckley Mountain. - - -which has now become the thriving seat of a large population engaged in -the collieries; and in the manufacture of earthenware, draining tiles, -and fire-bricks; all of which are held in high repute, and consequently -command an extensive trade. - - -Ewloe Castle - - -is distant from Hawarden about two miles, and stands a quarter of a mile -to the right from the turnpike-road leading thence to Northop. This -interesting and lonely ruin does not discover itself by lofty towers, but -will require some trouble to find it, as it is concealed on the east, -west, and south, by the adjoining grounds, and embosomed in trees to the -north, without any visible way of approach, save up the streamlet, which -passes at its foot, and discharges itself into the estuary of the Dee, -about two miles and a half below. Pennant designates this structure a -small fortress, but from its present appearance it seems better -calculated for the retirement or resort of a gang of desperate marauders, -than for any military purpose. The towers are now finely overgrown with -ivy, and command the view of three wooded glens, forming a gloomy -solitude. The time of its erection is involved in some obscurity.—In the -woods, near this place, called to this day, - - -Coed Ewloe, - - -part of the flower of the army detached by Henry the Second, in 1157, -from his camp on Saltney, was surprised and defeated by David and Conan, -the sons of Owen Gwynedd, sent by their father with a strong party from -his camp near Basingwerk. They suffered the enemy to march along the -straits of the country, till their forces were entangled in the depth of -the woods and the steeps of the narrow valleys. The attack was fierce, -sudden, and unexpected: the slaughter dreadful; and the pursuit carried -even to Henry’s encampment. This proved to the English but a prelude to -a second defeat. The king, with intent to repair the disgrace, marched -forward with his whole army; and at Coleshill, near Flint, suffered -himself to be entrapped into the same dilemma which his detachment had -before experienced. His forces were again defeated, and several of his -chiefs, with numbers of his men, slain. Henry de Essex, hereditary -standard-bearer, and a man of approved valour, was seized with a panic, -and throwing down the standard, cried out the king was killed. The route -would have been general, if the king had not valiantly rallied his -forces, and repulsed the Welsh; but in the end he thought it prudent to -withdraw his army, and encamp in a more secure situation. He afterwards -attempted to cut off the retreat of Owen Gwynedd by marching along the -shore, and placing himself between him and the mountains; but the -sagacious prince, penetrating his views, retired to a plain near St. -Asaph, still called Cil Owen (or Owen’s Retreat), and thence to a strong -post, called Brin-y-Pin, defended by great ramparts and ditches. - - - -HOLT, -(_Denbighshire_.) - -Chester 8 -Wrexham 6 - -A small village, on the west bank of the Dee, was once a market town, and -a place of some consequence; yet, even in its decayed and delapidated -state, it has for its governor a mayor and two bailiffs.—The two villages -of Holt and Farndon are separated only by the river, and communicate by a -bridge of ten arches, built in 1345. The Dee at this place divides -England from Wales; Farndon being in Cheshire, and Holt in Denbighshire. - - - -HOLYHEAD, -(_Anglesea_.) - -Amlwch 20 -Bangor 24 -Beaumaris 27 -Chester 86 -Dublin 60 -London, by Chester 266 - -This place, which is of very remote antiquity, derives its Welsh name, -Caer Gybi, implying the fortress or city of Cybi (pronounced Kubby), from -its situation on a small island at the western extremity of Anglesea, -called Ynys Cybi, for many years the residence of a British saint of that -name, who is said to have been the son of Solomon Duke of Cornwall. Its -population in 1841, was 3869 inhabitants. - -Owing to the very extensive intercourse which now subsists between Great -Britain and Ireland, the town has, within the last few years, rapidly -increased in extent and improved in appearance. From its advantageous -situation, it has been selected as the principal station of the -post-office packets, for conveying the mails to Dublin; and among other -improvements, a new line of road has been constructed under the walls of -the town, along the margin of the traeth, or sandy estuary, which forms -the harbour, extending more than a mile along an artificial embankment, -from the entrance of the town to the commencement of the pier. This pier -extends from the small island, called Ynys Halen, or Salt Island, in an -east south-easterly direction into the sea, and is 360 yards in length. -It is connected with the main land by a handsome iron bridge of one arch, -dividing the centre, and each part turning on a swivel to afford a -passage on either side. Beyond this bridge are the engineer’s house, the -custom house, the harbour-master’s offices, and the depôt for the -post-office stores: further on is a grand triumphal arch, built by -subscription of the gentry of the county of Anglesey, to commemorate the -circumstance of the royal squadron having anchored in Holyhead bay, on -the night of the 6th of August, 1821, and the landing of his majesty -George IV. on the following day. The grand terminus of the Chester and -Holyhead railway will be on the site of the present pier, and it has been -resolved by government to make a packet station and harbour of refuge, -equal to the wants of the whole Irish channel, and upon a most extensive -and magnificent scale, from designs made by the celebrated engineer, Mr. -Rendel. When the railway and harbour improvements are completed, the -transit between London and Dublin will be accomplished in thirteen hours. - -The triumphal arch, which was opened in August, 1824, is a chaste and -elegant structure of Mona marble, brought from the Red-wharf Quarry, and -consists of a central carriage way, separated on each side by two -handsome pillars of the Doric order from a footway, enclosed by a wall -ornamented at the extremities with antæ of correspondent character, the -whole twenty feet high, and supporting a boldly projecting cornice, -surmounted by three diminishing tiers of masonry, forming a platform. -Over the carriage-way, on each side, is a large entablature, respectively -bearing inscriptions in Welsh and Latin, commemorative of the event. - -The lighthouse is built entirely of hewn stone, and without any other -timber than what was necessary for the door cases and window frames. It -consists of three stories, the ceilings of which are groined, and the -gloves are of smooth stone: its base is six feet above high water mark, -and is protected from the sea by a stone glacis. The tower, which is -circular, is thirty-three feet in height to the gallery, and the lantern, -which is ten feet higher, is lighted with twenty brilliant lights of oil -gas, having reflectors plated with silver, and displaying a strong white -light, which, being at an elevation of fifty feet above the level of the -sea, affords a safe guide to vessels approaching the harbour. The whole -of these works were completed at an expense of about £130,000, and a -graving dock was constructed at an additional expense of £12,000. - -The post-office establishment at this place consists of six steam packets -of 230 tons burden, which sail regularly from this port and Kingstown, -keeping up a constant intercourse between the two countries. - -No manufactures are carried on at this place: several attempts have been -made at considerable expense to explore the mineral treasures with which -the parish was supposed to abound, but nothing of importance has yet been -discovered, except veins of Mona marble, called “verd antique,” which -have been worked to some extent. The trade consists chiefly in the -building of coasting vessels, the repairing of all the post office steam -packets belonging to the several ports of England and Wales, and the -making of ropes and cables. The market is on Saturday. The North and -South Wales bank has a branch here. - -The church, dedicated to St. Cybi, is a spacious cruciform structure, -principally in the decorated style of English architecture. - -The promontory called the Head, by which the harbour is sheltered from -the westerly winds, presents a singular aspect, its sides towards the sea -forming in some parts immense perpendicular precipices, while in others -they are worn, by the continued action of the waves, into caverns of -magnificent and romantic appearance. Of these, one called the -“parliament house,” is accessible only by boats at half ebb ride, and -consists of a series of receding arches, supported by massive and lofty -pillars of rock, displaying an interior of picturesque beauty and sublime -grandeur. Some of these caverns afford shelter for gulls, razor-bills, -herons, cormorants, and other birds; and the loftiest crags are -frequented by the peregrine falcon. The eggs of these birds are in great -request as a delicacy for the table; and some of the hardiest inhabitants -are employed in the hazardous task of procuring them for sale. - -There are several ancient military forts in the neighbourhood, whose -appearance indicates them to be of Roman origin. At a small distance -westerly is a large hill, having several natural and artificial -curiosities. Within about 200 yards of the top are the remains of a -strong wall, which seem to have belonged, as well as the churchyard -walls, to a place of defence against the frequent incursions of the -Irish. To the W. S. W. of the top, and nearly under it, in a situation -awfully romantic, are the remains of a chapel. From the top of this -mountain there is a most extensive view, comprehending the Isle of Man, -the hill of Howth on the Irish coast, and parts of the Highlands of -Scotland. - -Many gold Roman coins of the time of later emperors were found a few -years ago in Holyhead mountain; and in 1835, in removing some old walls -at Ty Mawr (Great House), the property of Lord Stanley, of Alderley, were -found several spear heads, axes, and rings, of bronze, with red amber -blades, which from the form and the nature of the materials, appear to be -of Phœnician origin. At Trefigreeth, another farm belonging to the -Stanley family, situated within a quarter of a mile of the London and -Holyhead road, about one mile from the town, is a small but perfect -cromlech. A larger one, in great preservation, may be seen at -Presadwaedd, about four miles from Holyhead. And at Tywyn-y-Capel, about -two miles from Holyhead, on the old post road, and close to the sea, is a -very singular mound, on the top of which, a few years ago, were the -remains of a small chapel. The mound is artificial, being formed of sea -sand. It is filled with graves. The coffins are formed of rude flat -stones, and are placed in rows above each other. They contain the -remains of persons of both sexes. The sea every year makes encroachments -upon it, laying open the graves and strewing the shore with bones. -Tradition is silent as to the origin of this singular place of burial. -It is worth the investigation of the antiquary. - -The South Stack Light-house is connected with the harbour, and materially -contributes to facilitate its access. It is erected on the summit of an -isolated rock, three or four miles westward from Holyhead, and separated -from the main land by a chasm 90 feet in width. This splendid structure -was raised in the year 1808. The elevation of the summit of the rock on -which it is erected, is 140 feet above the level of the sea at high water -mark; the height of the tower, from the base to the gallery, is 60 feet; -and the lantern is 12 feet high from the gallery; making the total -elevation of the light 212 feet above high water mark. The light is -produced by twenty-one brilliant lamps, with powerful reflectors placed -on a revolving triangular frame, displaying a full-faced light every two -minutes, which, in clear weather, is distinctly visible at a distance of -ten leagues. Latterly there has been an addition of three red lights -placed at the rock, which are more distinctly visible in foggy weather -than the light-house lights. The rough sea caused by the strong tides, -about the head, rendered the communication by boat very precarious. In -order to obviate the danger, a passage was contrived by means of two -ropes thrown across the gulph, along which the individual was drawn in a -box or cradle, by the assistance of pulleys affixed at each end. This -plan was superseded by a bridge of ropes, which was used some years -after, though always considered unsafe, on account of the constant wear -of the ropes. In 1827, a modern suspension chain bridge was thrown over -the sound, the span of which is 110 feet, the chains being firmly bolted -in the rock on each side, and carried over two massive stone pillars -erected for the purpose. The chain supports a platform of timber five -feet wide, and 70 feet above high water mark. The bridge is attained by -descending the Holyhead mountain in a zigzag direction, by a flight of -380 steps. - -On the rocks south of the harbour of Holyhead, and commanding the town, -an obelisk has been erected by public subscription to the memory of the -late Captain Skinner, formerly master of one of the post-office packets -on this station, who lost his life by being washed overboard in 1833. He -was very generally respected, and had been a commander on this station -for many years. - -To the N. E. is the Isle of Skerries, on which there is also a -light-house. - -There are several good inns at Holyhead, the principal of which is the -Eagle and Child Hotel. - -For romantic wildness and stern grandeur of aspect, no place can surpass -this portion of the iron-bound coast of Anglesea. - - - - - -HOLYWELL, -(_Flintshire_.) - -Chester 18 -Denbigh 14 -Flint 5 -London 201 -Mold 10 -Northop 6 -Rhuddlan 11 -St. Asaph 10 - -Holywell, called by the Welsh Trêffynnon, (or the Town of the Well,) is -an improving and pleasantly-situated place, on the great road from -Chester to Holyhead; the town and parish containing a population of -10,834, with a crowded market on the Friday. - -But before going into any topographical particulars, we must introduce -our readers to the legend of the miraculous well of the famous St. -Winefred, as put into an agreeable narrative by Miss Costello:— - - We stopped at a remarkably good inn, and lost no time in going down - the steep hill at the bottom of which the pretty little chapel over - the fine well is situated. Nothing can be more secluded and pleasing - than its position by the side of the handsome church with its low - churchyard, all placed in a deep hollow, so removed from the upper - town, that the bells summoning to prayer cannot be heard above, and a - ringer is accustomed to go about the town with the large bell slung - round his shoulders, and a cushion on his knee, against which the - bell beats as he walks, and proclaims his holy errand. This old - custom, doubtless of considerable antiquity, is still kept up, and we - are glad that, being there on a Sunday, we were able to see the - perambulating belfry. - - Margaret, the mother of Henry VII., erected the graceful chapel whose - fretted roof is the boast of Holywell, but one had existed long - before her time; for the miracle of St. Winefred happened, according - to the monks of the Basingwerk, to whom the world is indebted for the - legend, early in the seventh century, and is thus told: - - Winefred, a beautiful and devout virgin, lived in the reign of an - imaginary king, and was of noble birth, and the niece of a man whose - sanctity had already made him conspicuous, and who was known as the - good Beuno. A prince of the country, whose name was Caradoc, saw the - fair damsel, and loved her; but his passion was not so pure as her - goodness ought to have inspired. Even then there was a chapel at the - foot of the hill, where, while Beuno was at the altar praying with - certain of the inhabitants of the neighbouring town, amongst whom - were the parents of Winefred, to the astonishment of all, a head - rolled and bounded into the sacred inclosure, and stopped at the - altar. Beuno stooped to raise up the head, and observed that where - it had rested, instead of the pool of blood which was there but an - instant before, a stream of crystal water had sprung up. His - amazement was increased when he found that the beautiful features and - golden hair of the head he gazed upon were those of his beloved - niece. He hastened from the spot, and mounting the hill, discovered - her mutilated body lying prostrate, and the cruel prince Caradoc - flying with a drawn sword in his hand. The truth became clear to him - at once. Winefred had fled from the importunities of the prince who, - pursuing, had wreaked his vengeance on her by cutting off her head. - The saint, for such Beuno afterwards became, immediately with devout - prayers joined the severed head to the body, when, to the awe and - delight of all beholders, the virgin arose, as if from sleep, - uninjured and lovely as ever, nor was there a trace left of the - accident but a slight white mark, like a thread, round her throat. - Beuno cursed the caitif prince, “who melted away as wax melts before - the fire.” Winefred lived fifteen years after this event; she - founded a monastery at Gwytherin in Denbighshire, of which she became - the abbess, and died there. - - Before the event of her decapitation, it seems the valley was - particularly dry, so much so as to bear the name of _Sychnant_, {130} - from that circumstance; therefore it was most fortunate that the head - of the pursued damsel should have rolled where it did. Not only did - the spring attest the miracle, but the very moss and stones around - have properties that enforce the belief. The moss emits an - odoriferous smell in testimony of the saint’s purity, and the stones - at the bottom are stained with her blood, and keep their tint to this - day. It is true that some naturalists, who had not the same motive - for keeping the world in ignorance as the monks of Basingwerk had, - have proclaimed that the moss is only a sweet-scented plant called - _Jungermannia asplenoides_, and that the crimson stains on the stones - are produced by a vegetable named _Byssus jolithus_, by no means - uncommon, thus characterised by Linnæus: “the Byssus easily betrays - itself by giving the stones, to which it adheres, an appearance of - being smeared with blood. If rubbed, the plant yields a smell like - violets.” - -Fortunately, all the botanical and other students of the days of St. -Winefred were monks, who knew well how to keep their own counsel, and -turn their knowledge to their own advantage. - -Our fair tourist proceeds to narrate some of the “miracles and lying -wonders,” which are said to have occurred during the removal of the -devout virgin’s corpse from Gwytherin to Shrewsbury; and then comes a -conclusion, which we suppose the devotees of the saint of the Holy Well -will regard as nothing less than “flat blasphemy.” “After all this,” -observes Miss Costello, “it is mortifying to find that the blessed St. -Winefred never existed at all, nor was more than an Undine, a thought, a -name, a fairy of a fountain! for Gwenvrewy, as she is called in Welsh, -signifies _the white hill water_, or the _white gushing stream_, meaning -the overflowing well which Nature formed without a miracle.” - -As our province is rather to describe the well itself, than to bandy -arguments about the lady whose name it bears, we may briefly state that -it is one of the most remarkable springs of water in the kingdom. - -The well is an oblong square, about twelve feet by seven. The water -passes into a small square court through an arch, under which the Roman -Catholics used to swim as an act of penance. The quantity of water -thrown up is not less than eighty-four hogsheads every minute. This -water has never been known to freeze, and scarcely ever varies in -quantity, either in drought, or after the greatest rains. Though this -stream has little more than a mile to run before it arrives at the sea, a -great number of mills, forges, and other works are kept in motion by it, -three of which are placed abreast. - -The sacred well is the object of many pilgrimages, even in this day, and -several modern miracles are related of the influence of its waters. Pope -Martin the fifth especially enjoined such pilgrimages, and the monks of -Basingwerk were furnished with pardons and indulgences to sell to the -devotees. James the Second visited the well in 1686; and Leopold, king -of the Belgians, in 1819. - -Apart from all superstitious notions, its waters doubtless possess many -sanative properties. - -The authoress of the new romance of “Llywelyn’s Heir,” says with -reference to this charmed place: “We would recommend any strangers to the -spot to visit it, should an opportunity offer, and judge with their own -eyes of the lightness and beauty of the tall pointed arches and the -flying buttresses that adorn the exterior; and to decide whether the -interior is not even more worthy of notice. The well, into which the -miraculous stream pours forth its astounding body of water, is polygonal; -the columns that rise above it are singularly beautiful, and after many -serpentine wanderings, meet and form a canopy worthy of the water-king, -who doubtless frequently holds there his court. The legend of the saint, -and beautiful carvings in stone are scattered around; but they appear to -have been placed there to do honour to the house of Stanley, and not to -the saint—by no means an astonishing circumstance, for the saint had been -long dead, and was probably tired of working miracles; and the Stanleys -were living, and willing to bestow munificent gifts, of which this -building and the chapel above it remain memorials to this day.” - -The church, dedicated to St. Winefred, and rebuilt in 1769, is a rather -spacious structure of Grecian architecture, 68 feet long by 56 wide; -consisting of a nave with north and south aisles, with a chancel, in -which is a window embellished with modern stained glass. It has also two -large galleries over the aisles, and the whole is calculated to contain -about 3,000 persons. Remains of the ancient edifice are still seen in -the remarkably plain pillars on each side of the nave. It contains -several monuments and tablets, and amongst them one by Westmacott, -erected to the memory of Paul Panton, Esq. - -Under the chancel are the vaults of the Mostyns of Talacre, the Pennants -of Downing, and the Pantons of Bagillt; in the chancel is a neat -cenotaph, in memory of Mary, mother of the late Edward Pennant, Esq. On -the wall, at the end of the same aisle, is a flat stone with twelve -quarterings, copied from those over the chimney-piece in the dining-room -at Mostyn. - -In rebuilding the church, the headless figure of a priest was found in -his sacerdotal habit, and with a chalice in his hand. He is supposed to -have been Thomas, second son of Thomas ap David, abbot of Basingwerk. -This headless trunk is often exhibited to the wondering as the image of -the blessed St. Winefred! The service is alternately English and Welsh, -and at night there are English lectures. Holywell contains several -meeting-houses for the various denominations of dissenters. A new Roman -Catholic chapel has lately been erected. - -The environs, which are studded with numerous handsome residences and -gentlemen’s seats, abound with richly diversified scenery; and from the -higher grounds are obtained extensive and varied prospects over the -surrounding country, which is rich in picturesque beauty. The air is -salubrious, and the opportunities of cold and sea-bathing, render it not -only a pleasant place of permanent residence, but also of occasional -resort for invalids, for whose comfort every accommodation is provided, -with the benefit of good medical advice, and the advantage of numerous -pleasant rides and walks in the immediate neighbourhood.—There are -several good inns in the town, the principal of which are, the White -Horse, King’s Arms, King’s Head, and the Red Lion. - -For many ages, the copious stream of St. Winefred served only to turn a -corn-mill belonging to Basingwerk abbey, and it was not till the year -1777 that Holywell began to emerge from obscurity, when Mr. Smalley -introduced the cotton manufacture, and erected a mill on a principle -similar to that of one built at Cromford, by Sir Richard Arkwright. Soon -after this, Mr. Smalley was joined by an opulent company from Lancashire, -and erected, in 1783, a larger mill, now called the upper mill, which -worked 12,218 spindles; the same company, in 1787, built the lower mill, -adapted to the working 7492 spindles, and in 1791, the crescent mill, in -which 8286 spindles were kept in motion. These mills were applied to the -spinning of cotton thread, of which 26,098lb was produced on an avenge -weekly, furnishing employment to nearly one thousand persons. A great -part of that trade has now left Holywell, and the buildings are applied -to other branches of manufacture. - -There are, upon the same stream, several extensive copper mills, for -rolling sheet copper, the manufacture of every description of copper -vessels, copper bolts used in ship-building, and copper cylinders: there -is also a mill for drawing copper wire, &c. Besides these, there are a -large iron foundry, a paper mill, and zinc works. - -The district immediately around Holywell, is pre-eminently distinguished -for the richness of its mineral treasures, and particularly for its mines -of lead and calamine, which appear to have been worked from the earliest -period, and continue still to form an almost inexhaustible source of -wealth. - - -Basingwerk Abbey, - - -(Or Maes-glâs), called also Greenfield Monastery, is beautifully situated -in a meadow, about a mile east of Holywell among rich meadows, commanding -a fine view of the Cheshire shore, with a profusion of spreading -sycamores, and groves of ancient trees on all sides. Its time-worn and -crumbling ruins are, from some points of view, highly picturesque. - -The little at present left of the abbey is scarcely sufficient to -indicate its former extent. The church, which stood on the east side, is -totally destroyed. - -Near to the abbey, a castle formerly reared its towers, but of this -scarcely a vestige remains visible. Close to this spot also runs the -celebrated Watt’s Dyke, which terminates at the Dee below. It is clearly -traced hence through Northop, Hope, Wrexham, and the grounds of Wynnstay, -to Maesbury, near Oswestry, where it ends.—About three miles north-west -of Holywell, is - - -Downing, - - -The seat of Viscount Fielding, who married, in June 1846, Miss Pennant, -the heiress to the estate. The present house was built, probably on the -site of an older mansion, in 1627, but has lately undergone great -improvements. This hall was the birth-place and residence of the -celebrated author, Mr. Thomas Pennant, whose antiquarian and -topographical researches form an important contribution to the historical -records of the country. The walks are agreeable and diversified, -particularly in the immediate vicinity of the mansion, which is -approached by a rural path, winding through a beautiful and well-wooded -dingle. Much taste is displayed in the landscape gardening and -horticultural arrangements of this little paradise.—About a mile and a -half north-west of Downing, on the summit of a lofty hill, stands - - -Mynydd-y-Garreg, - - -An ancient circular building of great height, in form not much unlike a -windmill. It is a _pharos_, or Roman light-house, erected by that people -to conduct navigators to and from the Deva. It is tolerably entire, and -built of lime-stone, bedded in hard mortar. The antiquary will not -begrudge a walk to examine this ancient relique bequeathed to us by the -conquerors of the world.—Two miles north-west of Downing, lies the -ancient structure of - - -Mostyn Hall, - - -The property and residence of the Hon. Edward Mostyn Lloyd Mostyn, M.P., -nephew of the late Sir Thomas Mostyn, and heir apparent of Lord Mostyn, -of Pengwern. The house is approached by a magnificent gateway, called -Porth Mawr, erected at the termination of a venerable avenue of forest -trees, leading to one vestibule of the mansion, which stands in a small -but beautiful and well-wooded park, about half a mile from the estuary of -the Dee. The mansion is worth the attention of the tourist and -antiquary. It is of the Elizabethan age, though built upon the site of a -former house erected in the reign of Henry the Sixth. In the spacious -hall are several specimens of armour and implements of warfare previous -to the introduction of fire-arms. The rooms are literally crowded with -family portraits, by the old masters, the principal of which are Sir -Roger and Lady Mostyn. There are several fine portraits of Charles the -First, including an original by Vandyke. In the dining-room, the -sideboard is formed of one piece of plank, quite a curiosity; it is -nearly six feet wide, and twelve feet long; and is hewn, not sawed. The -tapestry parlour is beautiful. The mansion is noted for the maintenance -of English hospitality after the manner of “the olden time.” - -During the time that Henry, Earl of Richmond, was secretly conspiring the -overthrow of the house of York, he passed concealed from place to place, -in order to form an interest among the Welsh, who favoured his cause on -account of their respect to his grandfather, Owen Tudor, their -countryman. While he was at Mostyn, a party attached to Richard the -Third arrived there to apprehend him. He was then about to dine, but had -just time to leap out of a back window, and make his escape through a -hole, which to this day is called the King’s Window. Richard ap Howel, -then Lord of Mostyn, joined Henry at the battle of Bosworth: and after -the victory, received from the King, in token of gratitude for his -preservation, the belt and sword he wore on that day. - -There are many curious objects of antiquity at Mostyn, including a golden -torque found at Harlech; a silver harp, in the possession of the family -since 1568; the Mostyn pedigree; and the largest private collection of -Welsh manuscripts in the Principality. The Gloddaeth library and -manuscripts, as well as similar literary stores from other mansions of -this family, have been brought here; for the reception of which, the hon. -proprietor has erected a library worthy of the collection. - -To the treasures of Mostyn has also been added a splendid candelabrum -valued at one thousand guineas, presented by the political friends of the -Hon. Mr. Mostyn, who, on the day of the presentation, October 31, 1843, -entertained the subscribers, amounting to several hundreds, in a manner -worthy of the best days of the ancient, princely, loyal, and hospitable -house of Mostyn. - - - -LLANASA, -(_Flintshire_.) - -Holywell 6½ -Rhuddlan 6 -St. Asaph 10 - -The village of Llanasa is situated in a pleasant valley at the northern -extremity of the county, on the south-western shore of the estuary of the -Dee. The church has two east windows, in the more ancient of which is -some fine stained glass, brought from Basingwerk abbey. The church-yard -contains some curious tomb-stones.—In the neighbourhood are several -genteel residences, and about two miles from the village is - - -Talacre, - - -the seat of Sir Pyers Mostyn, a branch of the family of the Mostyns of -Mostyn. The old house was built in the time of James the First; but when -the late baronet came into possession of the estate, it was razed to the -ground for the purpose of building another mansion on its site. The -first stone of the new house was laid by Sir Edward Mostyn, on the 31st -day of July, 1824. When the shell was completed, part of it was burnt -down by an accidental fire on the night of the 11th of September, 1827; -but it was soon rebuilt, and finished in a magnificent style. The house -is an old English mansion, of truly handsome appearance, erected after a -design and under the superintendence of Mr. T. Jones, architect, of -Chester.—Within a short distance of Llanasa, and situated on an eminence -near the confluence of the Dee with the Irish Sea, is - - -Gyrn, - - -built by the late John Douglas, Esq. It is a building in the castellated -style of English architecture, having several lofty and elegant towers, -from the summit of which the view is very extensive, commanding the -surrounding hills, and those of Yorkshire, Derbyshire, and Staffordshire; -the Isle of Man, Beeston Castle, Chester, and Liverpool, are also -discernible; and, in the opposite direction, a small part of the -Snowdonian chain may be observed.—About a mile from Llanasa, is - - -Golden Grove, - - -the admired residence of Edward Morgan, Esq., erected in 1578; but it has -been considerably improved and enlarged within the last forty years. The -house occupies a sheltered situation among the hills, whence the prospect -is extensive and pleasing. - - - -LLANBERIS, -(_Caernarvonshire_.) - -Beddgelert 12 -Caernarvon 10 -Capel Curig 10 -Dolbadarn 2 - -This village, situated on the road between Caernarvon and Capel Curig, -derives its name from the dedication of its church to St. Peris, a -British, or, as some affirm, a Roman saint, who had been a cardinal of -Rome, and is said to have resided in this celebrated spot with Padarn, an -anchorite about the sixth century, who had a cell or small chapel, in a -meadow between Dolbadarn castle, and old Dolbadarn inn, now called the -“Snowdonia.” - -The church, situated in a deeply sequestered glen about half a mile above -the upper lake, is a small, low structure, of the most primitive -character. - -Near the church is the well of St. Peris, formerly famed for its -miraculous efficacy in the cure of diseases, and therefore a place of -resort with pilgrims and devotees. - -The parish of Llanberis is very large in extent, and is divided into two -districts or townships, viz. Nant-ucha’, alias Nant-Peris, and Nant-isa’, -alias Nant-Padarn, and comprises several of the loftiest mountains in the -Principality, besides numerous natural objects worthy the research of the -curious. - -The village of Llanberis is romantic in the extreme. It lies in a narrow -grassy glen, surrounded by immense rocks, whose cloud-capped summits are -seldom visible to the inhabitants below. All the parts immediately -surrounding the village were formerly covered with wood; but, except some -saplings from the old roots, there are at present very few trees left. -In the memory of persons lately living, there were great woods of oak in -several parts of these mountains. In the tenth century the whole country -must have been nearly covered with wood, for one of the laws of Howel Dda -(Howel the Good) directs that “whoever cleared away timber from any land, -even without the consent of the owner, he should, for five years, have a -right to the land so cleared; and after that time it should again revert -to the owner.” - -The Pass of Llanberis presents a scene of wild grandeur and fearful -sublimity, of the most impressive and majestic character. - -Amidst the vast ranges of these British Alps, are two beautiful lakes. -The upper one at Llanberis, called also Llyn Peris, is about a mile in -length, and nearly half of one in breadth; the depth is said, in places, -to be one hundred and forty yards. The other, called Llyn Padarn, is -about a mile and a half long, but so narrow as to assume rather the -appearance of a river than a lake. Between these, a communication is -formed by a stream, and out of the lower issues the river Seiont, which, -after flowing in an irregular diffused manner, discharges itself into the -Menai at Caernarvon. At the foot of the lower lake is a rural and -picturesque stone bridge, leading to a most perfect Roman station, called -Dinas Dinorwic, partly natural and partly artificial. It is in fine -preservation. - - -Dolbadarn, - - -(Or Padarn’s Meadow), so called from Padarn, a British saint of obscure -note. Since the opening of the new line of road from Caernarvon to Capel -Curig, Llanberis has become the principal resort of parties visiting -Snowdon. In addition to the spacious and comfortable inn at Dolbadarn, a -new and more commodious house, the Royal Victoria Hotel, has been erected -at the expense of T. A. Smith, Esq., near Dolbadarn castle, for the -accommodation of the increased number of visitors whom this truly -interesting district draws together in the summer months. The hotel is -in a most eligible situation, at the junction of the two lakes, and -within a few hundred yards of Dolbadarn castle, about two miles from the -village of Llanberis, on the road from Caernarvon. Every facility for -ascending Snowdon is here provided. - -The castle, standing near the junction of the two lakes of Llanberis, is -the only one that remains in the narrow passes of North Wales. As it was -impossible for an enemy to climb the chain of mountains, which are a -guard to Caernarvonshire and Anglesea, and as there were five narrow -passes, the British secured each with a castle: this was the central one. -Owen Gôch was here confined upwards of twenty years, for having joined in -a rebellion against his brother Llywelyn ap Gruffydd, the last prince of -Wales. It seems to have been long in ruins, for in Leland’s time there -was only part of a tower left. The key of the castle is kept at the -Victoria Hotel, and may be had by tourists on application. - -The view hence is remarkably splendid, embracing the lakes, which extend -nearly three miles, the various interesting objects by which they are -surrounded, and the immense chains of rugged mountains that bound the -vale. The view from the lake is also finely picturesque. - -About half a mile south of the castle, at the end of a deep glen, there -is a tremendous cataract, called - - -Ceunant Mawr, - - -(The Waterfall of the Great Chasm.) It is upwards of sixty feet in -height, and is formed by the mountain torrent from Cwm Brwynog, which -rushes through a cleft in the rock above, and after coming in a direct -line, suddenly takes a turn with the broad stratum of the rock, and thus -descends aslant, with a thundering noise, into the deep black pool below. - -On the declivity of the mountain, and nearly opposite Dolbadarn castle, -on the eastern side of the lake, are extensive slate quarries, the -property of Thomas Assheton Smith, Esq., situated high among the rocks. -The mode of conveying the slates down the almost precipitous descent, to -the margin of the lake, was formerly singularly awkward, and apparently -very dangerous. The carts, each conveying about one ton of slates in -winter, and two in summer, were drawn down a serpentine path by one horse -in front, and one hooked on behind, to counteract the rapidity of motion -which otherwise would endanger the whole. From the lake the slates were -carted in great quantities to the Menai, whence they were shipped to -Ireland, Liverpool, America, &c. To avoid this great labour and danger, -a railroad has been made from the quarries down to the shipping place at -Velin Heli, on the Menai, a distance of about nine miles. By this road, -the slates are conveyed down, at an average, it is said, of about 100 -tons daily throughout the year. At this place of activity, generally -designated by the name of “Dinorwic Slate Quarry,” above a thousand men -are usually employed. - -On the opposite side of the lake, and nearer to Caernarvon, at a place -called Glyn Rhonwy, is another quarry, the property of Lord Newborough, -worked by from 150 to 200 men; and the slates are conveyed by carts to -Caernarvon. - -This little valley can also boast of its mineral treasures. A valuable -copper mine is situated on the side of the upper lake, about half a mile -from the village. A stream of water, for the use of the mine, is -conveyed along the mountain on each side, and over the road, just at the -head of a lake, by means of a wooden conduit, supported by piers. The -ore obtained is, in general, what is termed rich, on an average worth -from £20 to £25 per ton; but the value consequently varies with the price -of copper. - -About two miles above Llanberis church, on the Capel Curig road, there is -an immense stone, that has once been precipitated from above, called - - -The Cromlech. {140} - - -This stone is of some thousand tons weight, and many times larger than -the celebrated mass of rock in Barrowdale, called Bowdar Stone. It lies -in a place called Ynys Hettws (Hetty’s Island); and two of its sides -meeting at an angle with the ground, it was once used as the habitation -of an old woman, who in summer resided in the vale to feed and milk her -cows. The enclosures are yet nearly entire, and are sometimes used as a -sheepfold. - - -Gorphwysfa, - - -(The Resting Place), the top of the ascent between Llanberis and Capel -Curig, four miles from the former, overlooks the glorious prospects -before noticed. It also commands a view into the mountain pass which -joins Nant Hwynan and the vale of Capel Curig. The vale of Llanberis is -narrow and almost straight, nearly filled with two lakes, connected by a -canal called Bala ’r Ddeulyn (the Junction of the two Lakes), celebrated -(previous to the opening of the copper mines) for the abundance of the -red and golden char. These fish are still caught in the lakes, though -not so plentifully as formerly; the char is taken about the middle of -September. - - -Angling Stations. - -The upper and lower lakes (Bad sport). -Llyn Cwm Dwythog 2 miles from Dolbadarn inn. -Llyn Llydan 5 — on Snowdon. -Glaslyn on the west of ditto. - -LLANDEGAI, -(_Caernarvonshire_.) - -Aber 3½ -Bangor 2 -Conway 10 -Port Penrhyn 2 - -Near to the grand entrance to Penrhyn Park, are the much admired church -and little village of Llandegai, hidden from the immediate view by a high -wall, extending some yards in the front. The parish is more than fifteen -miles in length, from the shore of the Menai straits far into the -mountainous regions of Snowdon, including a wide district, abounding with -almost every species of mineral treasure. The scenery of the -neighbourhood is beautifully picturesque and impressively grand, -comprehending on one hand a vast amphitheatre of mountains, and on the -other a fine view of the Menai Straits. - -The church is one of the neatest in the Principality, in the form of a -cross, having a tower in the centre. Its style is Gothic, and it is -supposed to have been erected about the reign of Edward the Third. -Within the church is a mural monument to the memory of John Williams, -lord keeper of the great seal in the reign of James the First, who died -at Gloddaeth, and was interred in this church in 1650. He is represented -in his episcopal dress, kneeling at the altar. There is also an elegant -marble monument erected to the memory of the late Lord and Lady Penrhyn, -executed by Westmacott. On one side it is supported by a female peasant, -deploring the loss of the deceased, and on the other by a quarry-man, -holding an iron bar and a slate knife, earnestly reading the inscription -which commemorates his benefactor. Beneath are smaller figures, the -first representing a boy feeding his goats on the mountains, emblematical -of the state of the country when his lordship commenced his improvements; -the second, two boys working in a slate quarry, emblematical of industry; -the third is, one boy teaching another to read the Bible, emblematical of -religious education; and the fourth, three boys with sickles in a wheat -field, denoting plenty. Lord Penrhyn died in 1806. - -The following is a translation of the somewhat curious Latin inscription -on the monumental record of the renowned Archbishop and Lord Chancellor -Williams:—“Sojourner, read, and in these few words, particularly observe -that which you would not expect to find in this obscure chapel. Here -lies buried John Williams, the most renowned of prelates, descended by -his father’s lineage from the Williams’s of Cochwillan, and by his -mother’s from the Griffiths of Penrhyn, whose great parts and eminence in -all kinds of learning raised him first to the deanery of Sarum, and -afterwards advanced him to that of Westminster by the favour of King -James. At one and the same time he was the most intimate favourite of -and privy councillor to that great king, lord keeper of the great seal of -England, and bishop of the see of Lincoln, whom Charles the First -honoured with the archiepiscopal mitre of York. He was thoroughly versed -in all sciences—a treasury of nine languages—the very soul of pure and -undefiled theology—an oracle of political tact—the very acmé and ornament -of wisdom, whether sacred, canonical, civil, or municipal. His -conversation was engagingly sweet—his memory more tenacious than human—a -repository of all species of history—expended in magnificent edifices the -sum of £20,000,—an exemplary pattern of liberality, munificence, -generosity, hospitality, and compassion for the poor. In those -lamentable times which followed, being worn out with the things which he -saw and heard, when, by reason of the fury of the rebels, he could no -longer serve his king nor his country, having lived 68 years, on the 25th -of March, which was his birthday, with strong faith in Christ, and -steadfast allegiance to his king, he most devotedly resigned his soul to -God, dying of a quinsy. It matters little that so small a monument, -placed in this obscure spot, preserves the memory of so great a man, -since years and ages shall never cease to celebrate his virtues. He died -25th March, A.D. 1650. - -“Pass on, traveller, it is enough, your curiosity is gratified.” - -The ancient family residence, Cochwillan, is within a short distance of -the church, and remains in much the same condition as when, “broken by -the storms of state,” the good prelate here sought his final -resting-place on earth. - - - -LLANDUDNO, -(_Caernarvonshire_.) - -Abergele 16 -Conway 5 - -Llandudno old church is situated near the promontory of Ormeshead, which -forms the eastern boundary of the entrance into Beaumaris Bar. It has -the appearance from the sea of a dilapidated cow-house. A new church has -been erected on the side of the promontory, where the inhabitants -principally reside. There are here several very valuable and extensive -copper mines. The cliffs towards the sea are lofty and abrupt; and the -whole scene wild and romantic in the extreme. - -On the centre of the mountain is a rocking stone, called Crŷd Tudno (or -the Cradle of St. Tudno); and on an eminence are the ruins of a large -square building, of which the walls, apparently constructed without -mortar, lie scattered in various directions. On the highest part of the -promontory, and near the Great Ormeshead, a signal staff has been -erected, communicating with Llysfaen on the east, and Puffin Island on -the west, forming thereby a post of communication between Liverpool and -Holyhead. These hills and the neighbouring woods of Gloddaeth abound in -rare and curious plants. The rock just above the village of Llandudno is -the only habitation in Britain of the _cotoneaster vulgaris_, which grows -here abundantly. - -The parish of Llandudno contains six hundred and sixty-two inhabitants. - - - -LLANEDWEN, -(_Anglesea_.) - -Llanidan 2 -Moel-y-Don 3 - -Llanedwen is a small village where Henry Rowlands, the learned author of -Mona Antiqua Restaurata, was interred. He was instituted to the vicarage -of this place in October, 1696, and died 1723. He lies under a black -slab of Anglesea marble, in the south part of the church. - - - -LLANELIAN, -(_Anglesea_.) - -Amlwch 8 -Beaumaris 20 - -This is a small village on the eastern coast of Anglesea. The church, -dedicated to St. Elian, is supposed to have been founded by the patron -saint about 540; and adjoining to it is a small chapel, of very ancient -foundation, measuring in its interior twelve feet by fifteen, called -Myfyr, _the confessional_. A curious closet of wood, of an hexagonal -form, called St. Elian’s closet, is yet left in the east wall, and is -supposed to have served both the office of a communion table, and as a -chest to contain the vestments and other utensils belonging to the -chapel. Near to the door is placed Cyff Elian (Elian’s Chest), or -poor-box. Superstitions devotees out of health send their offerings to -the saint, which are put through a hole into the box. - -At Point Lynas, near this place, a light-house of considerable dimensions -has been erected. - - - -LLANERCH-Y-MEDD, -(_Anglesea_.) - -Amlwch 6 -Beaumaris 17 -Holyhead 16 -London 263 - -Llanerch-y-medd is a considerable town, with a market on Wednesday, -deriving its importance chiefly from its proximity to the Parys mountain, -on the northern side of Anglesea. Here are the leading fairs for -Anglesea oxen, and the south country dealers attend to make their -purchases for the Kent and Sussex pastures. An establishment has been -opened in this town for the manufacture of snuff, in imitation of the -celebrated Lundy Foot, of Dublin. There is a small but comfortable inn -here. - -Within one mile of the town is Llwydiaeth, the hospitable mansion of W. -P. Lloyd, Esq. At a small distance is a rocking stone, held in great -sanctity by the bards as a druidical remain. - - - -LLANERVUL, -(_Montgomeryshire_.) - -Dolgelley 24 -Llanfair 5 -Machynlleth 25 -Mallwydd 13 -Newtown 14 -Welshpool 12 - -This interesting little village is pleasantly situated on the banks of -the river Banwy, and at the lower extremity of a narrow vale of about -seven miles in length. The Cross Foxes Inn affords good accommodation. -The situation of the village, being on the turnpike-road from Shrewsbury -to Machynlleth and Dolgelley, causes it to be much enlivened in the -summer season, by coaches passing through, conveying travellers to the -bathing places at Aberystwyth and Barmouth. - -The parish, extending nearly eight miles in length, and about three in -breadth, is divided into six townships, comprising a population of about -1000, chiefly employed in agriculture. The lands are but partially -enclosed and cultivated, the hilly parts affording only pasturage for -sheep, young cattle, and Welsh ponies, during the summer; but the soil of -the lower grounds is tolerably fertile, and when properly cultivated, is -capable of producing grain of every kind. Within this parish, on the -mountains, are several lakes of considerable extent and depth, and some -of them containing great abundance of fish, chiefly trout and eels. - -The most ancient manor-house in these parts is Neuadd-wen (the -White-hall). This was formerly the seat of Meredydd ab Cynan, brother of -Gruffydd ab Cynan, Prince of North Wales, who served the Princes of -Powys, and was termed Lord of Rhiw-hiriaeth, Coedtalog, and Neuadd-wen. -Some genealogists say that he was Meredydd ab Cynvyn, and brother to -Bleddyn ab Cynvyn, Prince of Powys. The estate of Neuadd-wen was divided -and subdivided according to the custom of gavel kind, until the time of -Evan ab Owen, the last of the line of Meredydd ab Cynan, whose two -daughters were married, the one to the Llwydiarth family, the other to -that of Newtown Hall. In a heap of rubbish, at the back of the present -farm-house of Nauadd-wen, were found pieces of free stone, with -mouldings, which appeared to be the ruins of an arched window. The -building seemed to have been Gothic, according to the taste of the -eleventh and twelfth century. It is probable that the name of Neuadd-wen -was given to the new structure, for there is a tradition that its former -appellation was Llŷs Wgan, which is corrobarated by the fact, that a -rivulet near the house is still called Nant Wgan. - -Adjoining Neuadd-wen lies the capital farm of Llysyn, formerly the estate -of Ieuan ab Bedo Gwyn, descendant of a cadet branch of the family of -Neuadd-wen. This estate was afterwards purchased by the Herberts, and -made the residence of some branch of that family, ancestors to the -present Earl of Powys. The name of Llysyn seems to be a contraction of -Llŷs-dyddyn (the Court-farm). Probably, the Princes of Powys had here a -court of judicature. - -This parish contains the vestiges of several tumuli, forts, and ramparts, -such as those at Moel-y-ddolwen, Gardden, Rhôs-y-gallt, &c.; but the most -singular vestige of antiquity here is that of the Roman causeway, called -Sarn-Sws, or Sarn-Swsen, which leads from the old Roman station of -Caer-Sws, near Llanidloes, to Chester; or as some will have it, from -Caerllëon-ar-Wysg, in Monmouthshire, to Caerllëon-ar-Ddyfr-dwy, or -Chester on the Dee. This road enters the parish of Llanervul on the -hills of the Drum, and thence descends through the farms of Cae’r-Bacha, -Cynniwyll, &c., and crosses the river Banwy below Neuadd-wen, and then up -Craig-y-gô, whence it proceeds through the parish of Llanvihangel; and -Dr. Worthington says it might be traced through the parish of -Llanrhaiadr-yn-Mochnant, at Street-Vawr, near Coed-y-Clawdd, over -Rhôs-y-brithdir, to Pen-y-Street, and thence to Llamiwrch, &c. In some -places the pavement may be found a little below the surface. - -The church of Llanervul is dedicated to Urval Santes, a female saint, -whose pedigree is not known: some suppose that the ancient tomb-stone in -the church-yard was erected to her memory, but the inscription by no -means corroborates that supposition. - -Mrs. Priscilla Forster, a descendant of the family of the Herberts of -Llysyn, bequeathed £300 for the instruction of the poor children of the -parish: this sum was invested in the purchase of a farm near the village, -now considered worth £35 per annum, which is appropriated agreeably to -the intentions of the benevolent testatrix. - - - -LLANFAIR, {146} -(_Anglesea_.) - -Llangefni 5 -Pentraeth 2½ - -This village is celebrated as the birth-place of Goronwy Owen, of whom a -Welsh author has said that “he was the greatest genius either of this -age, or that ever appeared in our country; and perhaps few other -countries can boast his equal for universal knowledge.” He was born in -1722, had the rudiments of his education at the grammar-school of Bangor, -whence, in 1741, he went to Oxford. Four years afterwards he received -holy orders at Bangor, and became curate to the Bishop at Llanfair. He -successively held the curacy of Donnington, near Shrewsbury, and Walton, -near Liverpool: but having only a slender income, and being disappointed -in his hopes of preferment, he emigrated to America. The taste, manners, -and morals of the Virginians were offensive and disgusting to this son of -sorrow. He lost by death his wife and children, all but one boy; and he -himself, while but comparatively a young man, sank to the grave under the -pressure of accumulated misfortunes. To a perfect acquaintance with the -Latin and Greek languages, he added a knowledge of the Hebrew, Chaldee, -Arabic, and Syriac. His Latin odes have been universally admired for the -purity of their language, and for the elegance of their expression. As a -Welsh poet he ranks superior to all since the days of Dafydd ap Gwilym. -Those parts of his works which have been printed are considered as -perfect models of Welsh poetry. It has been lately stated that a -grandson of the bard is now living in the United States, and is a member -of the congress. - - - -LLANFAIR, -(_Montgomeryshire_.) - -Can-Office 7 -Dinas-Mowddwy 18 -Mallwyd 16 -Newtown 10 -Oswestry 20 -Welshpool 8 - -Llanfair, or Llanfair-Caer-Einion, a small market town pleasantly -situated on the declivity of an eminence, rising from the south bank of -the small river Banwy, which falls into the Vyrnwy, and on the turnpike -road leading from Welshpool to Machynlleth and Dolgelley, containing 2687 -inhabitants. It has a church dedicated to St. Mary, an ancient -structure; and five places of worship for dissenters. The Vyrnwy abounds -with such a quantity and variety of fish, as justly to entitle it to the -name of _amnis piscosus_. The inhabitants of this place are said to -excel in the practice of spearing fish. - - -Angling Stations. - -Myfod (Meivod) 5 miles on the Vyrnwy. -Llangynyw 2½ „ -Llanervul 5 „ - -LLANFYLLYN, -(_Montgomeryshire_.) - -London 178 -Mallwyd 20 -Oswestry 14 -Shrewsbury 25 -Welshpool 12 - -A market town of some note, situate in a fertile valley on the banks of -the river Cain, surrounded by lofty hills. The market is held on -Thursday. Population, 1955. - -In the centre of the town stands the church, which was erected when the -excellent Dr. Beveridge was bishop of the diocese; it is a neat brick -building, dedicated to St. Myllyn. The peal of bells surpasses any in -the county. Here are three endowed schools; and a good town hall was -built in 1775. - -Bôd Fach, near this town, the seat of Lord Mostyn, was once the residence -of his paternal ancestors, the Kyffins. The markets and fairs of -Llanfyllyn are well attended, particularly for the purchase of Welsh -merlins, which are brought here for sale in great numbers. - - - -LLANGEFNI, -(_Anglesea_.) - -Beaumaris 12 -Llanerch-y-Medd 7 -Menai Bridge 7 -Mona Inn 3 - -This is a small but neat market town centrally situated in the island. -The markets and fairs are of considerable importance. It is one of the -contributory boroughs; the present M.P. being Col. Paget. There is a -neat church under the hill, and the town is romantically situated. The -principal inn is Pen-y-bont. - -Tregarnedd, now only a farm-house, but once the residence of Ednyfed -Vychan, an able chieftain to Llywelyn the Great, is in this parish. - -About three miles distant on the Llanerch-y-medd road is Tregaian, the -residence of Vice-Admiral Lloyd. Not far off is Maen Rhos Rhyfel, where -Owen Gwynedd obtained a signal victory over an invading army of Erse, -Manksmen, and Normans. The population of Llangefni is 1753. - - [Picture: Llangollen bridge] - - - -LLANGOLLEN, -(_Denbighshire_.) - -Chester 23 -Chirk 7 -Corwen 10 -London 183 -Oswestry 12 -Ruabon 6 -Ruthin 15 -Wrexham 12 - -The name of this place is derived from the dedication of its church to an -ancient British saint named Collen, whose lineage runs thus, in names -almost unpronounceable by Saxon tongues—St. Collen ap Gwynnawg ap Clydawg -ap Cowrda ap Caredog Freichfras ap Llyr Merim ap Einion Yrth ap Cunededd -ap Wledig. The town, which is beautifully situated in a deep narrow -valley, enclosed by lofty mountains, and watered by the noble stream of -the Dee, appears anciently to have been protected by the neighbouring -fortress of Castell Dinas Bran, situated on the summit of a vast conical -hill in its neighbourhood. The houses are in general old or rather mean -in appearance, though occasionally interspersed with some modern handsome -dwellings; and there is excellent accommodation for the numerous visitors -who frequent the neighbourhood during the summer season. The pure air -and mild temperature cause a number of families to adopt this locality as -a permanent retreat. The Hand, the King’s Head and Royal Hotel, are the -two principal inns. Population, 1500. - -Here is a stone bridge over the Dee, consisting of four pointed arches, -erected in the year 1345, by John Trevor, Bishop of St. Asaph, and which -was anciently regarded as one of the wonders of North Wales. The scenery -of the neighbourhood is pre-eminent for its grandeur and sublimity, and -for its picturesque and romantic beauty. - -The church is an ancient structure, with small pretensions to -architectural beauty, except some fine carvings on the roof and other -parts of the interior. The view from the churchyard is remarkably -pretty, embracing the bridge, the weir, and Crow Castle. The talented -and self taught clerk, Mr. Jones, may be consulted by writers with -profit, as a person of considerable attainments and general information. -The church services are alternately in the Welsh and English language. - -The market is held on Saturday, and is well supplied with butcher’s meat, -but very little corn is sold. By the late act for amending the -representation, Llangollen has been made a polling-place in the election -of knights for the shire. - - -Llangollen Vale, - - -a district long celebrated in prose and verse for its varied beauties, is -bounded on each side by lofty mountains of imposing grandeur. It is -certainly a charming and romantic spot; and though not so grandly -impressive, or so surpassingly beautiful as some of the other Welsh -valleys, its lovely features become more attractive on a familiar -acquaintance. A remarkable range of lime-stone hills, called the -Eglwyseg Rocks, adds a singular variety to the landscape. It is almost -needless to observe that “Llangollen, that sweetest of vales,” is the -scene of the home of “Jenny Jones,” whose charms are sung in Charles -Matthews’ popular ballad.—In this vale, and within a quarter of a mile -from the town, stands - - -Plas Newydd, - - -the famed retreat of Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby, better known, -probably, as _the two recluses_ of Llangollen Vale. These two females, -delighted with the scenery around Llangollen, when it was little known to -the rest of the world, sought here, about the year 1778, a philosophical -retirement from the frivolities of fashionable life, and selected and -improved a dwelling that commands a fine mountain prospect, which -obtained the name of Plâs Newydd. This elegant little cottage is -situated on a small knoll, and surrounded by very tasteful grounds. - -The peculiar style in which these ladies decorated their retreat has been -much discussed. A palisade, ornamented with antique and grotesque -figures carved in oak, enclosed the front; and the doors and windows were -decorated with carving of the same material. The rooms were tastefully -adorned with drawings. A carriage drive, open to strangers, crosses the -lawn immediately in front of the cottage. Lady Eleanor Butler died June -2, 1829, at the advanced age of 90, and Miss Ponsonby, Dec. 9, 1831, aged -76: both were interred in the churchyard of Llangollen. To their memory -is erected a monument of unique and elegant structure. It has three -sides, on each of which there is an appropriate epitaph; one for Lady -Eleanor Butler, another for Miss Ponsonby, and the other for their -youthful servant, Mary Carrol, who had accompanied them from Ireland, the -country of their birth, to this delightful retirement. - -The whole property was consigned to the hammer in 1832, and was purchased -by two other maiden ladies, viz. Miss Lolly and Miss Andrew, who seemed -inclined to emulate the retirement of its former possessors. - -There are many other genteel villas and country residences, within a -convenient distance of the town, deserving of notice. - - -Castell Dinas Bran - - -is situated on a high and somewhat conical hill, about a mile from -Llangollen. The building has been about a hundred yards long, and fifty -in breadth; and it formerly occupied the whole crown of the mountain. -From its extremely elevated situation (being about 910 feet above the -surface of the Dee at Llangollen bridge), it must have been a place of -vast strength. On the side which is most accessible, it was defended by -trenches cut through the solid rock. The present remains consist of -nothing more than a few shattered walls. There is a well of pure water -on the top of the hill. - -The views hence on every side are very grand. Towards the east stretches -the whole vale of Llangollen, through which the Dee foams over its rocky -bed; and beyond the vale is seen all the flat and highly cultivated -country that extends for many miles. Just beneath lies the town of -Llangollen, and towards the west is the vale of Crucis, with its -back-ground of lofty mountains, whose dark sides are agreeably varied -with wood and meadow. This fortress, from the style of its architecture, -is evidently the work of the Britons; but by whom built, or when -demolished, is a matter of mystery. Old Churchyard, who visited it in -the sixteenth century, calls it “an old ruynous thing.” - - -Vale Crucis Abbey, - - -or, as it is called by the Welsh, _Monachlog Llan Egwestl_, about two -miles from Llangollen, and one mile and a half from Castell Dinas Bran, -on the right of the road towards Ruthin, is a grand and majestic ruin, -affording some noble specimens of ancient Gothic architecture. There are -still remaining of the church the east and west ends, and the south -transept. Several pillars and arches also remain as interesting -memorials of this exquisite relic of a past age. - -The cloister on the south side, which a century ago, was only a shell, is -now converted into a dwelling-house, the residence of the person who -farms the adjacent lands. Three rows of groined arches, on single round -pillars, support the dormitory, which is now a loft for containing corn, -approached by steps from without. The area of the church is overgrown -with tall ash trees, which hide from the sight some part of the ruin, but -contribute greatly to its picturesque beauty. - -Vale Crucis was a house of Cistercian monks, dedicated to the Virgin -Mother. It was indebted for its foundation, about the year 1200, to -Madoc ap Griffith Maelor, Lord of Bromfield and Dinas Brân, who, after -various successes, and acquiring much booty by the reduction and ruin of -English castles, dedicated a portion of his booty to the service of -religion. He was interred here. At the dissolution the revenues appear -to have amounted to about £200 per annum. A short time ago, the burial -place of the monks was accidentally discovered, in the garden at the back -of the farm-house, where many of their remains were found, which must -have been there in an undisturbed state for six hundred years. - - -Pillar of Eliseg. - - -The Vale of Crucis is indebted for its name to this cross or pillar, -which is to be found in a field near the abbey, and just opposite to the -second mile-stone from Llangollen. This pillar is very ancient. The -Rev. John Price, Bodleian librarian, (uncle of Dr. Price of Llangollen,) -a great antiquary, wrote to Mr. Lloyd, of Trevor Hall, respecting this -long neglected pillar, and at his suggestion it was placed in the -position it now occupies. It appears to have been erected upwards of a -thousand years ago, in memory of Eliseg (the father of Brochwel -Yscythrog, Prince of Powys, who was slain at the battle of Chester in -607), by Concenn or Congen, his great grandson. The inscription is much -defaced, so that it cannot be satisfactorily traced. The shaft was once -above twelve feet long, but having been thrown down and broken, sometime -during the civil wars, its upper part, only about eight feet in length, -was left. After these commotions, it was suffered to lie neglected for -more than a century. - - -Post Cysylltau, or Cysylltau Aqueduct. - - -From Llangollen, most tourists visit this stupendous work of art. It is -a wonderful effort of ingenious contrivance, and affords a convincing -proof of the incalculable capability of human energies when directed by -science. This aqueduct was constructed for the purpose of conveying the -Ellesmere canal over the river and vale of the Dee. It was commenced in -1795, from designs by Mr. Telford, and completed in ten years. Its -direction is from north to south, crossing the Dee at right angles; and -it forms, in connexion with the exquisite scenery surrounding it, a noble -and magnificent picture. To view it to the best advantage, the stranger -must descend on one side of it, into the valley beneath; he will then be -impressed with its stupendous character. Though the aqueducts of the -Romans were superior in length, in other respects they were inferior to -this modern structure. - -The tourist may proceed along the high road towards Chirk, four miles -from the town, where a turning to the left will conduct him to Pont -Cysylltau Aqueduct; or crossing the bridge at Llangollen, ascend the hill -to the canal, and walk along its banks till he arrives at the aqueduct. -The high road is preferable, as it commands some engaging prospects. - -The aqueduct, in length 1007 feet, consists of nineteen arches, each 45 -feet in the span, with the addition of 10 feet 6 inches of iron work in -continuation at each end. The supporting piers are stone, of a pyramidal -shape, measuring at the base 21 feet by 14 feet wide; but diminishing -upwards to 12 feet by 7 at the top; and their height about 116 feet. -Over this immense arcade is extended a trough, or large open caisson, -made of cast iron, 11 feet 10 inches broad, by which the water of the -canal is conveyed over the river 1009 feet to the opposite level. Two -iron plates are screwed together from centre to centre of each arch; and -along one side of the canal is a towing path, four feet in breadth, with -a handsome iron balustrade, as a defence for man and horse. The -elevation collectively will stand thus:— - - Feet. Inches. -Height of piers 116 0 -Depth of trough, or caisson 5 6 -Height of balustrade 4 7 - Total height from surface of the Dee 126 1 - -At the southern end is an embankment of earth, 1500 feet in length, and -seventy-five feet in height nearest the abutment of the arches. The -whole undertaking is said to have cost £47,069 : 6 : 7. - -On the centre arch is the following inscription:—“The nobility and gentry -of the adjacent counties, having united their efforts with the great -commercial interest of this country, in creating an intercourse and union -between England and North Wales, by a navigable communication of the -three rivers, Severn, Dee, and Mersey, for the mutual benefit of -agriculture and trade, caused the first stone of this aqueduct of Pont -Cyssyllte to be laid on the 25th day of July, MDCCXCV, when Richard -Myddelton, of Chirk, Esq., one of the original patrons of the Ellesmere -canal, was Lord of the Manor, and in the reign of our Sovereign George -the Third; when the equity of the laws and the security of property -promoted the general welfare of the nation, while the arts and sciences -flourished by his patronage, and the conduct of civil life was improved -by his example.” - -The antiquarian will find some interesting remains in this neighbourhood -worthy of investigation. Amongst them is a square tower, very strongly -built, in advance of and at the foot of the hill on which Crow Castle -stands. For many years it has been appropriated as part of a farm-house, -called ‘The Tower.’ The walls of the original building or tower are very -thick; and in one corner of the quadrangle there is a winding stone -staircase, now concealed by a bookcase. The probability is that this old -tower was an advanced station belonging to the castle. There are also -vestiges of a nunnery or monastery at a place called Pengwern. - -About six miles from Llangollen, on the Ruthin road, is a curious old -building, called Rhydidris, near Llandaglan. The site, the extensive -stabling, and the antique curiosities in the house, raise the probability -that it has been garrisoned, and also been a military station of great -importance. - -The Shrewsbury and Chester Railway Company intend to run a branch from -their main line at Ruabon to Llangollen. - - -Angling Stations. - -The Dee from Corwen to Llangollen. -“ “ from Llangollen to Overton. - -LLANGYNOG, -(_Montgomeryshire_.) - -Bala 11 -Llanfyllyn 7 -Llanrhaiadr 6 - -Llangynog (the church of St. Cynog) is a small village, situated in a -pleasing slip of fertile land, above which rises a stupendous rock of -coarse slate. The river Tanat, which runs through this village, is -celebrated for its delicious trout. The upper end of the vale is bounded -by two vast precipices; between them juts out the rude promontory of Moel -ddu Vawr. On the north side of this valley is the house of -Llechwend-garth, the occasional residence of the late Thomas Thomas, Esq. -of Downing, near Holywell, whose daughter married H. Davies Griffith, -Esq. of Caer-Rhûn, Caernarvonshire, who, in consequence, became possessed -of this estate, and was in 1835 high sheriff of the county of Montgomery. -The new inn affords tolerable accommodations. - -At Craig-y-Mwyn. somewhat more than two miles from the village, in 1692, -a vein of lead ore was discovered, so valuable as to yield to the Powys -family a clear revenue of at least £20,000 a year. It had been worked to -the depth of about one hundred yards, when on a sudden the water broke in -with such continuous power, that the proprietor was compelled to abandon -the undertaking. About the commencement of the present century, however, -the mine was leased by a company, who drove a level beneath it, in order -to draw off the water, and continued the working of it for some time; -they occasionally found masses of pure ore, weighing from 70 to 1001b. -each. After some time the works were again discontinued, until a few -years ago, when the old shaft was reopened, and the operations proceeded -with considerable success. - -At Craig-y-Gribin, in this parish, are some quarries of excellent blue -slate, of strong and durable quality. - - - -LLANHAIARN, -(_Caernarvonshire_.) - -Caernarvon 13 -Pwllheli 7 - -This is a small village, situated near the west coast of the promontory -of Lleyn. Its church, standing on an eminence, forms a good -land-mark.—Between this place and the sea, the lofty range of the Rival -(or Yr Eifl) Mountains, which form conspicuous objects from Caernarvon -and other parts of the country. Upon the first of these eminences, about -a mile from Llanhaiarn, is Tre ’r Caeri (or the Town of Fortresses), -which Mr. Pennant describes as “the most perfect and magnificent, as well -as the most artfully constructed British post he ever behold.” The only -accessible side was defended by three walls, which appear to have been -very lofty. The area is irregularly shaped, and near the centre is a -square space surrounded by the fragments of habitations. - - - -LLANIDAN, -(_Anglesea_.) - -Caernarvon 3 -Llanedwen 2 -Menai Bridge 6 -Plas Newydd 3 - -Llanidan is a little village, near the shores of the Menai, not far from -the spot where the Romans landed, headed by Suetonius Paulinus, who -murdered the Britons by thousands. It is called, by Rowlands, Maes Mawr -Gad (the Great Army’s Field). It lies three hundred yards from the -Menai, and consists of about twenty acres. The Romans entered the water -about two hundred yards south of Llanfair-is-caer church, where the shore -is flat, the water shallow, and only three quarters of a mile wide. At -low water, and at neap tide, most of the bed is dry. - -After the death of Nero, in the year 67, the natives, after six years of -thraldom, threw off the Roman yoke, the Druids returned and assumed their -authority and property, which they held till the year 76; when Agricola -crossed the Menai, nearly a mile farther north, landed at a field yet -called Pont or Pant-yr-Yscraffiau (Bridge of Boats), where the same -tragedy was re-acted in this and the two adjoining fields. - -The locality abounds with an interesting variety of druidical remains. -Lord Boston has a residence and a park here: the house is a clumsy -building, but the situation is most pleasant. - - - -LLANIDLOES, -(_Montgomeryshire_.) - -Aberystwyth 30 -Devil’s Bridge 19 -London 193 -Machynlleth 20 -Newtown 14 -Plinlimmon 7 - -Llanidloes (the Church of St. Idloes) is pleasantly situated near the -Severn. The population of the whole parish is 4261, including 2562 -inhabitants of the town, who are principally employed in spinning and -weaving of flannels, the manufacture of which has been established in -this town from a very early period, and has continued materially to -increase; the softest and most durable texture is made here. The -principal inn is the New Inn, an excellent and well conducted -establishment, where post-chaises and other vehicles may be had; the -Queen’s Head, Red Lion, and the Crown, are also respectable houses, where -travellers may be well accommodated. By the late Reform Act, this town -was made one of the contributory boroughs of the county. - -The church was originally founded towards the close of the fifth or at -the beginning of the sixth century. Of the original building the towers -only remain. The present structure was built about 200 years ago. In -1816, the chancel and south wall were rebuilt; at the same time the -church was renewed; and a set of new bells was hung in the tower in 1824. -As is usual in all the Welsh towns, there are places of worship for -various dissenting congregations. The market-day is on Saturday. - -A few years ago, a handsome stone bridge of three arches was erected over -the Severn, at a considerable expense; and a new and excellent line of -road was opened from hence to Rhaiadr, which makes a direct and regular -communication between North and South Wales. Lord Mostyn is lord of the -manor; a court leet is held once a year, at Michaelmas, when officers are -appointed, in whom the government of the place is vested. In the -vicinity of the town are several handsome residences, the property of -opulent individuals. - -Within eight miles of Llanidloes, in the parish of Llanbrynmair, are two -fine waterfalls, near to each other, of which the principal, called Ffrwd -Vawr, is very grand, especially after heavy rains; the water having a -perpendicular descent of more than one hundred and thirty feet. - - -Plinlimmon. - - -Within the limits of Llanidloes parish is partly included the lofty -mountain of Plinlimmon, (or, more properly, Plumlumon, the five-peaked -mountain) which is the highest in the several chains, of which it forms -the centre: and from this place the ascent to its summit is usually made, -being only seven miles distant from the town, whence guides from the -principal inns are provided. From the highest point is obtained a fine -prospect of vast extent, comprehending on the south, the hills of -Cardiganshire and Radnorshire; on the west, Cardigan bay and St. George’s -channel; on the north, Cader Idris and part of the Snowdon range of -mountains, separating the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth; on the -north-east, the Breiddyn hills, in Montgomeryshire; and on the east, part -of the counties of Hereford and Salop. This mountain derives a -considerable degree of interest from its giving rise to the rivers -Severn, Wye, Rheidiol, and Llyvn-nant; of which the former is secondary -only to the Thames in commercial importance; whilst the Wye and the -Rheidiol surpass all other rivers in Britain for the picturesque beauty -of their scenery. - -The Severn, here called by its ancient British name of Havren, rises on -the northern side of the mountain, in a stony chalybeate spring, and is -speedily joined and increased by other springs rising near to its source, -and by several mountain torrents, before it reaches Llanidloes. - -The Wye rises from two powerful springs on the south-eastern side of the -mountain, and after a long circuitous course, falls into the Severn near -Chepstow. - -The Rheidiol has its source in a pool called Llyn Llygad Rheidiol, and -falls into the sea at Aberystwyth. - -The Llyvn-nant issues from a pool called Glâs Llyn. - -About twenty years ago, Llyn Llygad was entirely without fish. Two -gentlemen, one of whom was the late Captain Jones, R.N., of Machynlleth, -were grousing on Plinlimmon, when the conversation turned on the -peculiarity of this lake being entirely destitute of the finny tribe, and -the possibility of stocking it from a neighbouring rivulet. A staff net -was procured, and some dozens of small trout caught in the river Rheidiol -were thrown into the lake, which at that time swarmed with millions of -horse leeches. Some of the trout, when placed in the pool, lay upon -their sides faint and exhausted: and strange as it may appear, the -rapacious leeches attached themselves to the sick fish, and actually -devoured them. Others of the trout were vigorous; these and their -progeny have enforced the _lex talionis_ with a vengeance; and while the -fish abound, not a leech is now to be seen. - -At Melin Velindre, on the route to Plinlimmon, is a romantic cataract, -and near a sheep farm, called Blaen Havren, the Severn rolls its waters -over a lofty ledge of slate rocks, in which gullies have been found of -picturesque shapes. - -About two miles from the town, on the south-east, is a spacious pool, -called Llyn-ebyr, extending over a surface of nearly one hundred acres; -it abounds with pike, eels, and perch, and affords excellent fishing; it -is frequented by wild fowl; and during the summer season it is the resort -of parties of pleasure, for whose accommodation boats belonging to -gentlemen in the vicinity are kept on the pool. - - -Angling Stations. - - _Distance from Llanidloes_. _Miles_. -The Clywedog -Bodaioch, on the Tavannon 5 -Glan Trevnant 5 -Llandinam 6½ -Llangurig 5 - -LLANRHAIADR, -(_Denbighshire_.) - -Denbigh 4 -Ruthin 4 - -Llanrhaiadr (the Village of the Cataract), on the road between Ruthin and -Denbigh, is situated on a small eminence in the fertile vale of Clwyd. -It derives its name from a spring at a short distance, called Ffynnon -Ddyfrog, where once was a bath and chapel, dedicated to St. Ddyfrog. - -The church is a very interesting and handsome structure. On the east -window is a painting of the genealogy of Christ from Jesse, executed -about 1533. In the church-yard is a curious inscription to John ap -Robert, whose pedigree is traced up to Cadell, king of Powys. - -The scenery, both to Denbigh and Ruthin, is all the way extremely -beautiful. - - - -LLANRHAIADR-YN-MOCHNANT, -(_Denbighshire_.) - -Bala 18 -Llanfyllyn 5 -Llangynog 6 -Oswestry 14 - -This is a small village situated at the extremity of the county, in a -deep hollow, surrounded by mountains. - -Dr. William Morgan, the first translator of the Bible into Welsh, was -vicar of this place. He was promoted to the bishopric of Llandaff, and -in 1601 to that of St. Asaph, where he died in 1604. This valley is -called Mochnant, (the Vale of the Rapid Brook) at the extremity of which, -distant from the village about four miles and a half, is - - -Pistyll Rhaiadr, - - -(The Spout of the Cataract) reputed to be the largest waterfall in Wales. -The little river Rhaiadr here falls down an almost perpendicular black -crag, of 240 feet in height. For about two-thirds of this space, the -water slides down the flat face of a naked rock; it rages thence through -a natural arch, and, passing between two prominent sides, falls into a -basin. It then passes though a well-wooded dell, forming a boundary line -which separates the counties of Denbigh and Montgomery, and after -assisting to form some pretty scenes, falls into the Tanat. Near to the -waterfall is a neat inn, built in the Gothic style, by Sir W. W. Wynn, -where the stranger may meet with tolerable accommodation. - - - -LLANRWST, -(_Denbighshire_.) - -Abergele 22 -Bettws-y-Coed 4 -Cerniogau 14 -Capel Curig 10 -Conway 12 -Denbigh 22 -Llanrhychwyn 2½ -London 218 -Maen-Twrog 20 - -This town is pleasantly situated on the western bank of the river Conway, -which here forms the boundary between the counties of Denbigh and -Caernarvon, in the spacious and beautiful vale of Llanrwst, environed by -majestic and well-wooded hills, the land at the foot of which is -plentifully watered and remarkably fertile. The town consists -principally of small houses and shops, with a population of 3905 -inhabitants. It has a market on Tuesday, and a branch of the North and -South Wales bank. The Eagles is the principal inn; but a good house of -public entertainment is sadly wanted here. - -The bridge over the Conway, leading to Gwydir, is an elegant structure, -built about the year 1636, from a plan by the celebrated Inigo Jones, at -an expense of £1000, defrayed conjointly by the two counties which it -connects. It is an extraordinary fact that a vibration of the bridge may -be caused by any person standing above the middle arch and forcing -himself rather smartly against the parapet.—Excellent roads have lately -been made, communicating with the London, Holyhead, and Chester roads, -and also with Denbigh and St. Asaph, the improved state of which has -induced a considerable increase of visitors, during the summer months, to -view the picturesque and much admired scenery of this neighbourhood. - -Llanrwst was formerly noted for making harps; at present the spinning of -woollen yarn, and the knitting of stockings, constitute the principal -branches of trade. In the market-place stands the town-hall, a -substantial structure, rebuilt in 1842. - -The original church, dedicated to St. Grwst, was a small edifice, -situated close to the margin of the river, and built about the year 1170; -and was supposed, from its style of architecture, to have been erected in -the fifteenth century: it contained a screen of beautifully carved oak, -brought here from the abbey of Maenan, which was used as a gallery for -the singers. A new church has, however, been built on its site; and -adjoining it, on the other side, is Gwydir chapel, a handsome square -castellated edifice, the interior of which is decorated with a profusion -of carved work; it was built by Sir Richard Wynne, from a design by Inigo -Jones, in 1633, as a burial place for his family, the deceased members of -which had previously been interred in the chancel, and contains many -elegantly engraved brasses, exhibiting portraits of several of this -family. On the eastern wall is a slab of white marble, recording the -pedigree of the founder, and tracing his ancestors to Owen Gwynedd, -prince of North Wales. On the southern wall is a mutilated monument to -the memory of Sir John Wynne, Bart., a learned antiquary, and an -indefatigable gleaner of materials for the illustration of Welsh history. -In the centre of the chapel, upon the floor, lies the stone coffin of -Llywelyn the Great, who died in 1240, and was interred in the abbey which -he had founded at Aberconway, thence removed to Maenan, and from that -place, at the dissolution, the coffin was brought to the old parish -church of Llanrwst, where it remained obscured by rubbish, until placed -in its present more appropriate situation. The same attention has -likewise been paid to another piece of antiquity placed near it, a -recumbent armed effigy of Howel Coetmor, grandson of Davydd, brother to -Llywelyn ap Gruffydd; he was the owner of the Gwydir estate, which was -sold by one of his descendants to the family of Wynne. There are in the -parish eleven places of worship for dissenters. A new church, called by -the inhabitants the English church, has lately been erected about half a -mile from Llanrwst. It is a neat and commodious edifice. - - -Gwydir. - - -This ancient mansion, about half a mile distant from the town, -beautifully situated amidst extensive woods of oak, which clothe the -rocks projecting between the rivers Conway and Llugwy, near the foot of a -lofty precipice called Carreg y Gwalch, or the Rock of the Falcon, was -erected by John Wynne ab Meredydd, in 1555, and comprised an extensive, -but somewhat irregular pile of buildings, ranged in a quadrangular style, -and consisting of an inner and outer court. A great part of this edifice -was taken down in 1816, since which time the present structure, though on -a much smaller scale, has been built. A small portion of the former -mansion still remains, and is fitted up in an antique and elegant style. -That part which was built by Meredydd still remains, and contains some -magnificent rooms, in which are several articles of furniture made from -the druidical oaks of ancient times, and the cradle which nurtured Sir -John and Sir Richard Wynne is still to be seen. The pleasure grounds are -laid out with great taste, and contain a good collection of plants. Mary -Wynne, afterwards Duchess of Ancaster, the last of this great race, -conveyed the property to that family, and Lord Willoughby d’Eresby now -possesses it in right of his lady. - - -Vale of Llanrwst. - - -This delightful vale, which is neither so widely extended as the Vale of -Clwyd, nor so contracted as that of Llangollen, is regarded by the -admirers of picturesque scenery, as exhibiting the most varied assemblage -of beautiful features which the pencil could delineate. Mr. Burke has -pronounced it “the most charming spot in Wales.” The prospect of the -dense woods and towering hills which enclose it on each side, is -enlivened by the sparkling waters of the sportive Conway, which present -an animated scene, either of small vessels arriving at the village of -Trefriw, or of the diminutive boats, called coracles, used in fishing for -salmon and smelts, considerable quantities of which are caught in their -respective seasons. At Mayne, within a mile of Llanrwst, is a spring of -high repute, and frequently used with great effect as a cold bath. - -In the valley called Nant Bwlch yr Haiarn, near Gwydir, is a cataract -which falls about 100 feet, called Rhaiadr-y-Parc Mawr. The quantity of -water, however, is seldom large enough to produce much effect. About two -miles and a half from Llanrwst, on the Conway road, is the small but -beautiful village of - - -Trefriw, - - -situated on an eminence commanding a delightful and extensive view of the -Vale of Llanrwst. Near and above this lovely spot is the celebrated lake -of Geirionydd, on the banks of which lived the illustrious bard Taliesin, -called by his countrymen, by way of distinction, “Taliesin ben Beirdd,” -the chief of the bards. About a mile from Llyn Geirionydd is the -mountain village of Llanrhychwyn. Lord Willoughby d’Eresby has erected a -monument which his lordship intended should identify the spot where the -poet resided. Here, in a sort of hollow, formed on the summit of a -mound, are still to be seen some remains of an ancient habitation. The -river Conway is navigable from its mouth to Trefriw, for vessels of 60 -tons burden, which bring coal, lime, timber, and grocery, for the supply -of the inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood, and carry back the -produce of the slate quarries and mines of the adjoining parishes. Five -miles S. E. of Llanrwst, is - - -Gwytherin, - - -a small village, very poor and primitive indeed, once celebrated as the -burial place of St. Winefred, but the pilgrimages to it are now few and -far between.—Three miles to the north stood the Abbey of Maenan; but a -large old house built out of its ruins now occupies its place. - - -Angling Stations. - - _Distance from Llanrwst_. _Miles_. -Bettws-y-Coed 5 -Trefriw 2½ -Dolgarrog 4 -Llanbedr 5 -Dolwyddelan 8 - _Various Lakes near Llanrhychwyn and - Dôlgarrog_, _viz._ -Llyn Geirionydd 4 -Llyn Bogynmyd 3 -Llyn Cowlyd 6 -Llyn Afangc. -Llyn Tal-y-llyn, and Llyn Crafnant, -near Llanrwst. - -MACHYNLLETH, -(_Montgomeryshire_.) - -Aberdovey 10 -Aberystwyth 18 -Chester 70 -Dolgelley 16 -Llanidloes 20 -London 208 -Newtown 28 -Towyn 14 - -Machynlleth is an ancient well-built town, superior to most in North -Wales for cleanliness and respectability, the streets being remarkably -spacious and regular in appearance. It is situated on the road leading -to Aberystwyth from Shrewsbury and North Wales, about a quarter of a mile -from the southern bank of the river Dyfi. The township contains a -population of 2482. It is the centre of the woollen manufactory in this -part of the country, where also some tanning business is carried on. The -Eagles is accounted the principal inn, and the Unicorn Arms, in the -middle of the town, has obtained a good repute for excellent -accommodation. The name of this town signifies the place of the river -Cynllaeth, which was the ancient name of the Dyfi or Dovey, in the valley -of which it stands. It is the supposed Maglana of the Romans, where, in -the reign of Honorius, a lieutenant was stationed to awe the -mountaineers. - -Here Owen Glyndwr summoned the nobility and gentry, of Wales in 1402. -Amongst the number, Sir David Gam attended with the design of murdering -Glyndwr, but the plot was discovered, and Sir David was seized. He would -have suffered instantaneous death, had not some powerful friends -interfered, through whose intercession his sentence was mitigated to -confinement at Machynlleth, where he continued some time. But Sir David -was scarcely set at liberty, ere he began to manifest a turbulent -disposition; which so exasperated Glyndwr, that he burnt his house in -resentment, uttering to Gam’s servant the following extemporaneous -stanza:— - - Os gweli di wr coch cam, - Yn ’mofyn am Gyrnigwen; - Dywed ei bod hi tan y lan, - A nod y glo ar ei phen. - -David, however, escaped this meditated vengeance by flying into England, -where he continued in favour at the court of Henry the Fifth. - -In the august assembly called Owen’s parliament, Glyndwr exerted his -first acts of royalty, being then acknowledged as the Prince of Wales, -and proclaimed and crowned. - -Machynlleth has a neat and commodious church, which has recently been -rebuilt. The town-hall or market-house was erected in 1783, by Sir W. W. -Wynn, grandfather of the present owner of Wynnstay, who is lord of the -manor, and holds courts leet twice in the year. The county court is held -alternately here and at Montgomery, and the petty sessions for the -hundred are held here occasionally. There are places of worship for -Independents, Calvinists, and Wesleyan Methodists; and a national school -liberally endowed. - -The new line of road from Machynlleth to Towyn is exceedingly picturesque -and beautiful, particularly that part of it lying between Penal and -Aberdovey, which is cut out of the solid rock, and was opened in 1827; it -passes along the northern bank of the Dovey, and affords most delightful -views of the opposite coast of Cardiganshire, with the sea in the -distance. - - - -MAEN-TWROG -(_Merionethshire_.) - -Bala 22 -Bedd-gelert 10 -Capel Curig 22 -Caernarvon 23 -Dolgelley 18 -Ffestiniog 3 -Harlech 10 -Slate Quarries 5 -Tan-y-Bwlch 0¼ -Tremadoc 10 -The Cataracts 2 - -This is a small village, situated in the most romantic part of the highly -picturesque vale of Ffestiniog, on the southern bank of the river Dwyryd. -It derives its name from a large stone, still remaining in the -church-yard, called Maen-Twrog, erected to the memory of a British saint, -who died about the year 610. The church was rebuilt on the site of the -ancient structure in 1814, and is a neat stone edifice with a square -embattled tower. The Rev. Edmund Prys, Archdeacon of Merioneth, one of -the most eminent poets of his time, was rector of this parish: he -translated the metrical psalms used in the Welsh churches, and assisted -Bishop Morgan in translating the Bible. He died in the year 1623, and -was buried in Maen-Twrog church. Nothing can exceed the beauties of the -little vale in which the village is built; the well-wooded hills are -moderately high, and scattered with pleasing effect. - -There is a comfortable inn here, where neat cars may be had. A Sunday -school was lately erected, at the expense of Mrs. Oakley. Within sight -of the village, and about a quarter of a mile distant, on the opposite -side of the river, is - - -Tan-y-Bwlch, - - -that is, Below the Pass, which is one of the most beautiful and -celebrated places connected with the range of Snowdonian mountains. It -takes its name from being situated at the brow of a hill, where it -overlooks the vale of Ffestiniog; and from Plâs Tan-y-Bwlch, the -residence of the late W. G. Oakley, Esq., which is delightfully and -romantically situated. The prospect from the terrace of this mansion is -most splendid and interesting, embracing the glorious scenery of the vale -of Ffestiniog, the river Dwyryd in all its meandering windings, the range -of Merionethshire mountains in the distance, the majestic castle of -Harlech, and the lake-like intervening views opening into Cardigan bay. - -The Oakley Arms, an elegant hotel, is conveniently situated in the centre -of the many attractive objects of this romantic district. - -Several Roman antiquities have lately been found near this place, -consisting of coins, urns, and inscribed stones, some of which are in the -possession of Mrs. Oakley, and of J. Lloyd, Esq. of Pen-y-Glanau, who has -also an extensive collection of antiquities, found in different parts of -the Principality. - -About two miles on the Harlech road, up a woody valley, are two most -interesting waterfalls, on the Velin-Rhyd river, one called the Rhaiadr -Dû, or the Black Cataract, and the other the Raven Fall. From the former -the water rushes down a steep channel for about one hundred yards, and is -thence thrown with great force over three rocks, each of which takes a -different direction from the others: the depth of the fall is about forty -feet. The latter is not more than a quarter of a mile distant, and in -equal in beauty and grandeur. It consists of six different falls, each -of which, about thirty feet in extent, is beautifully picturesque, and, -as seen from the base of the rock over which the river descends, has a -sublime and romantic appearance. There are also several other falls of -minor interest on the streams that water the vale. At a cottage near the -bridge, which the tourist will cross before he leaves the main road from -Maen-Twrog, a guide to the falls may be obtained. - -After the natural beauties of this lovely district, the object of the -greatest attraction is the Ffestiniog railroad, for the conveyance of -slates from the Ffestiniog quarries to Port Madoc, which is cut through -rocks nearly the whole length of fourteen miles, and forms an inclined -plane the whole distance, the fall of which is equal to one in one -hundred and twenty, and the descent from its commencement to its -termination is a most delightful ride, through an infinite variety of -sublime and interesting scenery. For the accommodation of tourists and -visitors, a carriage, connected with the Oakley Arms Hotel, has been -placed on the line. - -The quarries with which the railway is in connexion produce the best and -most valuable kind of slate. They belong to Lords Newborough, -Palmerston, and Powlett; Mrs. Oakley; S. Holland, J. Greaves, W. Turner, -and Thomas Casson, Esquires. - - - -MALLWYD. -(_Montgomeryshire_.) - -Bala 19 -Can-Office 12 -Dinas Mowddwy 1½ -Machynlleth 12 - -This is a little village, placed between the salient angles of three -abrupt mountains, Arran, Camlan, and Moel Dyfi, in a small valley -surrounded by many delightful scenes, through which runs the river Dyfi, -or Dovey. - -The falls of the Dovey at Pont Fallwyd, about half a mile distant, are -particularly romantic and beautiful. - -The church is a very humble Gothic structure. The churchyard is -remarkable for several large yew trees, one of which measures twenty-two -feet in girth, and forty feet in height.—Mallwyd has a good inn, where -post chaises may be procured. - - - -MOLD, -(_Flintshire_.) - -Chester 12 -Denbigh 16 -Flint 6 -Hawarden 6 -Holywell 10 -London 200 -Northop 3 -Ruthin 10 -Wrexham 11 - -The ancient British name of this place, (Yr Wyddgrûg), signifying a Lofty -and Conspicuous Hill, and also the Roman name of Mont Altus, of like -import, were derived from a high mound on the north-western side of the -present town, now called the Bailey Hill, a commanding eminence, partly -natural, and partly artificial, upon which a fortification appears to -have been erected at a very early period, but whether by the ancient -Britons, or by the Romans, is not accurately known. It is seated in a -pleasant valley, watered by the river Alyn; consists principally of one -long spacious street; and in 1841, with that part of the township -immediately adjoining, contained 10,653 inhabitants. By the late Act for -amending the representation, Mold has been constituted a borough, -contributory with Flint and the other boroughs in the county, in the -return of a member to Parliament. - -In the environs are numerous handsome seats and elegant mansions. The -principal inns are the Black Lion and Leeswood Arms hotels. To the -former a spacious assembly room has lately been added, and many agreeable -balls are there given. The parish abounds with mineral wealth; the -western district is rich in lead ore, which is generally found imbedded -in limestone, or chirtz; but the operations are much impeded by the -subterraneous stream of the Alyn, which here flows under ground for the -space of upwards of half a mile. Numerous tumuli are found in various -parts of the parish. In October 1833, some workmen, digging in a field -near the town, discovered a human skeleton, having at its feet an -earthern pot, which apparently contained ashes; and on the breast, with -other metal, a large plate of gold, much ornamented, valued at the sum of -£70: the trustees of the British Museum became the purchasers of these -antique relics. - -In the neighbourhood are various works for smelting lead, and an -extensive cotton mill. - -The county assizes are held in Mold. A new county hall has been erected -in the old English style of architecture, from a design by Thomas Jones, -Esq., architect, of Chester. - -The church, dedicated to St. Mary, and said to have been erected in the -early part of the sixteenth century, is a spacious and handsome -structure, consisting of a nave, north and south aisles, and a chancel, -with a lofty square embattled tower, enriched with sculpture and crowned -with pinnacles, which though of more recent erection, precisely -correspond with the general design. The interior of the church is -embellished with architectural details and sculptured monuments. Among -numerous monuments worthy of examination, is an elegant one to the memory -of Richard Davies, Esq., of Llanerch; and against a pillar of the nave is -this singular epitaph, composed by Dr. Wynne for himself, and placed -there during his life:—“In conformity to ancient usage, from a proper -regard to decency, and a concern for the health of his fellow-creatures, -he was moved to give particular directions for being buried in the -adjoining churchyard, and not in the church; and as he scorned flattering -of others while living, he has taken care to prevent being flattered by -others when dead, by causing this small memorial to be set up in his -lifetime: God be merciful to me a sinner!” In the burial ground are -deposited the remains of Wilson, the celebrated painter, styled “the -English Claude.” There are places of worship for various denominations -of dissenters. A branch railway from Mold, to form a junction with the -Shrewsbury and Holyhead lines, at Saltney, near Chester, will soon be -constructed. - -Of the ancient castle not a vestige at present can be discerned, and its -very site is completely covered with thriving plantations. The Bailey -Hill, on which it stood, though at present difficult of ascent, was -rendered still more arduous by the erection of strong ramparts and the -formation of a deep moat: from the summit of this hill a fine view of the -surrounding country is obtained. About a mile west of Mold is a noted -spot of ground, called - - -Maes Garmon, - - -Or the Field of Germanus. Soon after the final establishment of -Christianity in this part of the Principality, about 448, a severe -conflict took place here, between the combined forces of the pagan Saxons -and Picts, and the native converts, of whom thousands had been just -previously baptized. The latter calmly awaited the approach of the enemy -at this place, under the command of Bishops Germanus and Lupus, the -former of whom, having given his troops orders to repeat after him the -word “alleluiah,” led them on to battle. - -This triumphant shout, uttered by the whole army, struck such terror into -the hearts of the pagans, that they fled on all sides; numbers perished -by the swords of their pursuers; and many, attempting to escape, were -drowned in the adjacent river. This celebrated victory, which took place -in Easter week, has been distinguished by historians with the appellation -of “Victoria Alleluiatica;” and the memorial of it has been perpetuated -by the erection of a pillar, in 1730, on the spot where St. Germanus is -said to have stood. Modern researches of antiquarians have raised a -doubt as to the locality of this remarkable event. One mile and a half -on the Chester road runs - - -Offa’s Dyke, - - -The ancient and famous boundary between Wales and England, extending from -Basingwerk, in Flintshire, to Monmouth. When the Romans made their -inroads into this island, many of the Britons retreated into Wales, at -which time the rivers Dee and Severn divided the two countries: all to -the east was England, and to the west Wales. This division continued -about 600 years, when the ambitious Offa, coveting the fertile lands of -his neighbours, raised a quarrel and an army. He drove the conquered -westward among the mountains, seized their property, formed this vast -dyke, and ordained that neither Englishman nor Welshman should pass the -new boundary. - - -The Tower. - - -On the right of the road leading towards Caergwrle, and about a mile from -Mold, is an old structure, which presents a singular specimen of the -style of domestic architecture during the ages of lawless violence in -which it was erected: it consists of an ancient square tower of three -stories, and appears to have been designed as a place of fortified -habitation. During the wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, it -was inhabited by Reinallt ab Gruffydd ab Bleddyn, who was constantly -engaged in feuds with the citizens of Chester. In 1495, a considerable -number of the latter came to Mold fair, and a fray arising between the -hostile parties, great slaughter ensued on both sides; but Reinallt, who -obtained the victory, took the mayor of Chester prisoner, and conveyed -him to his mansion, where he hung him on the staple in his great hall. -To avenge this affront, a party of two hundred men was dispatched from -Chester to seize Reinallt, who, retiring from his house into the -adjoining woods, permitted a few of them to enter the building, when, -rushing from his concealment, he blocked up the door, and, setting fire -to the house, destroyed them in the flames: he then attacked the -remainder, whom he pursued with great slaughter: and such as escaped the -sword, were drowned in attempting to regain their homes. The staple on -which the mayor was hung still remains fixed on the ceiling of the lower -apartment. - - -Moel Fammau. - - -On the right of the road to Ruthin, about five miles west of Mold, is -this conspicuous eminence, rising 1845 feet above the level of the sea. -Upon the summit of this mountain, the gentlemen of the country entered -into a subscription, and erected in 1810, a jubilee column, to -commemorate the fiftieth year of the reign of George III. The first -stone was laid by Lord Kenyon, on the 25th October, in the presence of -more than 3000 people. The monument was executed from designs by T. -Harrison, Esq., of Chester, and consists of a rough stone building of -pyramidal form, about 150 feet in height, and 60 feet diameter at the -base. A square block of stone in the centse marks the division of the -two counties, Denbighshire and Flintshire, and four parishes. From this -elevated spot may be seen parts of Staffordshire and Derbyshire; the -Wrekin, in Shropshire; Snowdon and Cader Idris, in Wales; and Black Comb, -in Cumberland. The view is exceedingly grand and extensive, combining -every variety of natural scenery; and as the mountain road has lately -been repaired, and a room for visitors with a shed for horses erected on -the summit, it forms a convenient and interesting spot from which to -contemplate the beauties of Wales. The jubilee column has also been -repaired by public subscription, to which Lord Kenyon was a liberal -contributor. - - -Kilkain. - - -This village, which lies about four miles from Mold, on the bridle road -to Denbigh, is remarkable for the finely-carved roof of its church, which -at the dissolution of monasteries was brought from the abbey of -Basingwerk. - - - -MONA INN, -(_Anglesea_.) - -Beaumaris 14 -Holyhead 12 -Menai Bridge 10 - -Mona Inn, formerly called Caeau Môn, is an excellent hotel, situate -midway between Bangor and Holyhead, on the new line of road between those -places. Post chaises are kept here. About nine miles beyond the Mona -Inn the mail road crosses the Stanley Sands, by means of an embankment -1300 yards in length, and upon an average of 16 feet in height. In the -fields of the inn the geologist will find a curious red rock, containing -jasper, which will cut glass like a diamond, and which also polishes -beautifully. - - - -MONTGOMERY, -(_Montgomeryshire_.) - -Bishop’s Castle 9 -London 169 -Newtown 9 -Welshpool 8 - -This town, the capital of the county, is romantically situated, partly on -the summit, and partly on the declivity of a hill, rising from the -southern bank of the Severn, and under the shelter of a mountain of a -mountain of loftier elevation.—The town-hall stands in the middle of the -town, the area underneath being used for the market: the upper part is -divided into two handsome rooms, erected at the expense of Lord Clive, -the larger of which is used for assemblies; the smaller, for the business -of the quarter sessions. On the left of the road leading to Shrewsbury -is the new gaol, built by the county at an expense of £10,000. In 1841, -the population returns gave to this town 1208 inhabitants. The Dragon -has the reputation of being the principal inn. - -The town was anciently built and fortified with a castle, by Baldwyn, -lieutenant of the Welsh marshes to William the Conqueror, and then called -Tre-Faldwyn, i.e. Baldwyn’s Town; but Roger de Montgomery, Earl of -Shrewsbury, in 1092, entered Powys-land, and took his place, which he -fortified anew, built the castle (according to Doomsday-book), and called -it after his own name. The church is a handsome cruciform structure, and -contains an ancient monument to the memory of Richard Herbert, Esq., -father of the celebrated Lord Herbert of Chirbury. - -The ruins of the castle crown an eminence to the north of the town, the -approach to which is easy; but on the opposite side, the rock upon which -it is built rises almost perpendicularly. A seat belonging to the Earl -of Powys, called Leymore Lodge, stands about half a mile from the town, -on the road to Bishop’s Castle. - - -Mynydd, or Cefn Dygoll, - - -Is celebrated for having been the spot where the national independence of -the Welsh was finally prostrated. After the death of Llywelyn, the -northern Welshmen set up Madoc, his cousin, who assembled a great army, -and after several victories at Caernarvon, Denbigh, Knockin, and on the -marshes, the hero of the Principality was here overthrown, in 1294, by -the collected power of the Lords Marshers, after a fiercely contested -battle. - - - -NEVYN, -(_Caernarvonshire_.) - -Caernarvon 21 -Cricaeth 15 -London 270 -Pwllheli 7 - -Nevyn is a small market town, situated on the western coast of the -county, with a population of 1726 inhabitants. It is only remarkable as -the place where Edward the First, in 1284, celebrated his conquest of -Wales by tournaments and feasts. The coast in the neighbourhood is bold -and rocky, and the surrounding scenery altogether of a mountainous -character. The church is a neat building, erected in 1824. - -On a narrow head-land, jutting into the sea, about a mile from the town, -is Porth-yn-Llëyn, supposed, from remains of strong entrenchments, to -have been a port frequented by the Romans. It forms a natural bay, in -which there is safe anchorage in all winds, for vessels of the largest -tonnage. - - - -NEWBOROUGH, -(_Anglesea_.) - -Aberfraw 7 -Menai Bridge 12 - -Newborough is on inconsiderable village, containing 895 inhabitants, -deriving its name from having been constituted a free borough by Edward -the First. It was originally a place of great importance, being the -capital of the island, and was for many years the residence of the -princes of North Wales, who had a palace here, where, or at Aberfraw, on -the opposite side of the Malldraeth sands, they occasionally fixed their -seat of government, as the exigences of that turbulent period might -require. At the time of the first conquest of Wales by Edward the First, -this place appears to have been the chief town in the island, as well as -the seat of justice for the whole comot of Menai. In the reign of Henry -the Seventh, upon a representation to that sovereign, the assizes and -other county business were removed from Beaumaris to Newborough. Having, -however, declined from its former importance, in the third year of Edward -the Sixth, the assizes, sessions, and general county business were -removed back to Beaumaris, where they have been continued ever since. - - - -NEWMARKET, -(_Flintshire_.) - -Caerwys 5 -Holywell 7 -St. Asaph 6 -Rhuddlan 4 - -This village is situated about three miles to the right hand of the great -Chester and Holyhead road, and within three miles of the estuary of the -Dee. - -The church is a small structure of modern date, standing within a -spacious cemetery, in which are some fine lofty trees. On the south of -the church, and not far distant from the principal entrance, stands a -tall and very beautiful stone cross, the upper part finely sculptured in -high relief. Here is built one of the charity schools, founded and -opened in 1726, by Dr. Daniel Williams, a dissenting minister, with an -annual endowment of £8, a charity which he extended to every county in -North Wales, distinguishing that of Wrexham, the place of his birth, by -an annual salary of £15. - -The conjecture of the learned antiquarian, Mr. Pennant, that from the -numerous tumuli and other sepulchral memorials visible in the -neighbourhood, it was the scene of the slaughter of the Ordovices, by the -Romans under Agricola, seems to be well founded. - -Near the village is a hill called Cop ’r ’leni, on the summit of which is -a most enormous carnedd or tumulus, formed of lime-stones. It covers -nearly an acre of ground, and is in height from 20 to 30 yards. The most -probable conjecture is, that it was erected over the remains of some -distinguished warrior or chieftain, slain in battle, and in later times -served as an observatory to discern the approach of an enemy, for which -purpose it is well calculated, as it commands an extensive view both of -the neighbouring encampments, and the estuaries of the Dee and Mersey. - -A short distance from this place, on the brow of another hill, is -Bryn-y-Saethau, or the Hill of Arrows, probably from being the station of -the archers in the engagement: close to this is Bryn-y-Lladdfa, or the -Hill of Slaughter, a name peculiarly appropriate to the site of a battle; -a little below again is Pant-y-Gwae, or the Hollow of Woe. - -Between Newmarket and Mostyn, about one mile and a half distance from the -former place, there is on an elevation a singular monument, denominated -Maen Achwynfan, or the Stone of Lamentation and Weeping, on which are cut -some very curious figures; the height of the stone is twelve feet, and -two feet four inches wide at the base; the form is that of an ancient -obelisk. - -A short time since one of the tumuli or barrows was opened in the -presence of Mr. Morgan, of Golden Grove, and the Rev. Henry Parry, vicar -of Llanasa, and was found to contain a quantity of bones and boars’ -tusks, the latter in good preservation. An urn, nearly two feet in -height, was struck upon, but through the precipitancy of the workmen -employed on the occasion, was unfortunately broken to pieces. - - - -NEWTOWN, -(_Montgomeryshire_.) - -Bishop’s Castle 16 -Llanidloes 14 -Llanfyllyn 19 -London 179 -Machynlleth 30 -Welshpool 14 - -Newtown, or as it is called by the Welsh Tre’-Newydd, is situated on the -banks of the river Severn, on the road from Welshpool to Aberystwyth, and -contains 3990 inhabitants.—The principal inns are the Boar and the Angel. -Very little is known either of the origin or the early history of this -place, which within the last fifty years, from the celebrity of its -flannel manufacture, has risen into importance. A spacious hall has -recently, been erected, from a design by Mr. Penson, in which the market -for the staple commodity of the place is held, each alternate Thursday. -Many factories have been established, which afford employment to more -than two thousand persons. - -A substantial bridge of stone over the Severn, called the Long Bridge, -was completed in 1827, at a cost exceeding £4000: it consists of three -arches of more than sixty feet span; the arches and the parapets being of -grey free-stone, and the spears and spandrils of blue stone, found in the -neighbourhood. A stone bridge of one arch was built in 1803, over the -town brook, on the road to Welshpool, which, by way of distinction, is -called the Short Bridge. - -The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is an ancient structure. In the -interior are some marble monuments, chiefly to the family of Price, of -Newtown Hall. The environs abound with pleasing and romantic scenery, -and a fine view of the town is obtained from the summits of the hills on -the north and south sides. At the distance of about a mile and a half on -the road to Built, there is a picturesque and beautiful spot, which is -much resorted to by strangers; from the summit of a shelving mass of -rock, eighty feet high, a stream of water rushes with impetuosity, -forming in its descent a fine cascade, which winds at the base through a -richly wooded glen. - - -Angling Stations. - - _Distances from Newtown_. _Miles_. -Bettws 4 -Llanmerewig 4 -Llanwynog 6 - -NORTHOP, -(_Flintshire_.) - -Chester 11½ -Flint 3 -Hawarden 4½ -Holywell 6 -London 194 -Mold 3 - -This is a large and pleasantly situated village, in a fertile part of the -country, surrounded by numerous seats and elegant villas. The Welsh name -is Llan-Eurgain, from the dedication of its first church to St. Eurgain, -daughter of the Prince Maelgwyn Gwynedd, and niece of St. Asaph, the -second bishop of the see, which from him derived its name. - -The church, which has a noble tower, erected in 1571, stands on a small -eminence, and is an irregular building, embattled in the front, and -supported by clumsy buttresses. The interior length is 113 feet, and the -breadth 38½ feet. There have been three dedications of Northop church; -the first to St. Eurgain; the second to St. Mary; and the third to St. -Peter. There are several remarkable monuments in this church. - -The parish of Northop contains about 6000 acres of land, nearly the whole -extent of which is in cultivation. The population of the parish in 1841 -was 3566. - -Coals are found in the lower parts of the parish, and some of the works -have been extensively carried on for many years; large quantities are -conveyed by iron rail-roads to Connah’s Quay, and there shipped for -Chester, Liverpool, and Dublin. Lead ore is found, though not in great -abundance, in the township of Caer Allwch. - - - -OSWESTRY, -(_Shropshire_.) - -Chirk 5 -Ellesmere 8 -Llanfyllyn 14 -Shrewsbury 18 -Welshpool 16 -Wrexham 14 - -This town, though not situated in Wales, is so contiguous, that it is -frequently visited by travellers, either on commencing or terminating -their tour, Oswestry lying on the great line of road from Llangollen to -Shrewsbury. The town occupies the declivity of a range of hills, which -skirt it on the western side, and command an extensive view over the -fertile plains of Salop. The streets are well paved and lighted: the old -buildings of timber and brick have been succeeded by respectable modern -edifices; and the town, which has long been stretched beyond its ancient -boundaries, is still progressively increasing in extent and importance. -The population of the parish by the last census was 8843. - - - -OVERTON, -(_Flintshire_.) - -Ellesmere 5 -Wrexham 7 - -This is a neat little village, delightfully situated on the banks of the -Dee, over which river is a handsome stone bridge of two lofty arches, -connecting the counties of Denbigh and Flint, on the road from Chester to -Shrewsbury. The surrounding scenery is beautifully picturesque. The -village, with its venerable church, forms a pleasing and highly -interesting feature in a charming landscape. In the churchyard are -several fine yew trees. The site of the ancient castle occupies the brow -of a lofty promontory overlooking the river Dee; and in the park of -Gwernhaeled are the remains of a large circular camp, with an ancient -tumulus. In this vicinity is the elegant seat of F. R. Price, Esq. -Bryn-y-Pys. - - ANGLING STATION.—The Dee up to Llangollen. - - - -PENMAEN MAWR, -(_Caernarvonshire_.) - -Aber 4 -Bangor 9 -Conway 6 -Port Penrhyn 8 - -Penmaen Mawr is an immense hill, and so denominated from being the last -of the long chain of mountains which cross the country. This gigantic -rock, along which the road from Chester to Holyhead passes, exhibits a -fine contrast with the adjacent fertility, by its sterile grandeur. This -place was once the dread of the neighbourhood, the immense promontory -affording only a narrow zig-zag path along the shelf of its frowning side -for the terrified traveller to pass. Under his feet were loose masses of -rugged stones, impeding his progress; beneath, a hundred fathoms down, -the roaring ocean foaming against the perpendicular base of the mountain; -and over his head, the impending precipice, threatening by its shivering -aspect to overwhelm or hurry him headlong down the craggy steep. The -danger, from the declivity of the mountain, with the crumbling nature of -the strata, increased with his progress, and, in several difficult parts -of the road, one false step must have inevitably proved fatal. - -From the numerous accidents that occurred, it was long an object of -melancholy consideration to the inhabitants in the vicinity: the winter -evenings were often spent in relating the alarming tales of the perils -and disasters attendant on passing Penmaen Mawr. Modern science, -however, has made travelling in this fearful district both safe and -attractive. By order of the Parliamentary Commissioners, a new road was -opened in 1827, by the celebrated Mr. Telford. And a capacious tunnel -has been constructed for the Chester and Holyhead Railway, through the -adjoining mountain of Penmaen Bach, which seemed to defy every attempt to -pierce its gloomy recesses. - -On the summit of a lull called Braich-y-Ddinas, rising out of Penmaen, -are the ruins of a castle, the fortifications of which were capable of -containing 20,000 men; the remains of walls are still standing, and a -well that supplied the garrison is constantly full of water, furnished -principally by the _condensed_ vapour of the mountain. This was -considered the strongest post possessed by the Britons in the district of -Snowdon. It was deemed impregnable; and here the reduced bands of the -brave Welsh army were posted, pending the negociation betwixt Edward I. -and Llywelyn. - - - -PENMORFA, -(_Caernarvonshire_.) - -Beddgelert 7 -Pwllheli 11 -Pont Aberglaslyn 5½ -Tremadoc 1 - -Penmorfa, or the Head of the Marsh, is a small wood-clad village, -romantically situated on the western bank of Traeth Mawr, but is so much -out of the way of tourists as to be seldom visited. The church is small, -and dedicated to St. Beuno, having within a small monument to the memory -of Sir John Owen, a general and supporter of Charles I., who, being taken -prisoner at a battle near Bangor, was condemned to die by the Parliament; -but through the intercession of Ireton, he was liberated after a few -months’ imprisonment. - - - -PENMYNYDD, -(_Anglesea_.) - -Beaumaris 6 -Plas Newydd 5 - -Penmynydd is situated on the eastern side of Anglesea, near the great -post road from Bangor to Holyhead, six miles from the Menai Bridge. It -is celebrated as being the native place of OWEN TUDOR. - - - -PENTRE VOELAS, -(_Denbighshire_.) - -Capel Curig 11 -Corwen 15 -Denbigh 18 -Ffestiniog 14½ -Llanrwst 11 -Maen-Twrog 17 - -This is a small hamlet on the great London and Holyhead road, with a very -comfortable inn. About four miles distant are the Conway waterfalls. A -new road has lately been formed hence to Denbigh, and another to -Ffestiniog. - - - -PLAS NEWYDD, -(_Anglesea_.) - -Caernarvon 6 -Llanidan 3 - -Plas Newydd (the New Mansion), anciently Llwyn Moel (the Grove on the -Hill), one of the principal groves in Anglesea, sacred to druidic -worship, once the magnificent seat of the Marquis of Anglesea, but now -occupied by T. Assheton Smith, Esq. of Vaenol. Caernarvonshire. It is -beautifully situated on the curve of the Menai, protected on three sides -by venerable oak trees, and about one hundred yards of the strait, with a -fine lawn in front, sloping to the edge of the water, and defended from -the encroachment of the sea by a strong parapet embattled wall. - -Here the noble proprietor had the distinguished honour of entertaining -his late Majesty George the Fourth, on his visit to Ireland in 1821; and -also, at the invitation of the Noble Marquis, who was then exercising his -official duties as Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, her Royal Highness the -Duchess of Kent and her illustrious daughter, the Princess (now Queen) -Victoria, took up their residence for several weeks in the summer of -1822, during the time of holding the Eisteddfod at Beaumaris, where they -visited and occasionally resided. - -Opposite the stables, behind the house, stands the most complete cromlech -in Anglesea, perhaps in Britain; and the domains abound with most -interesting vestiges of antiquity. - -A short distance from Plas Newydd, is Mr. Saunderson’s beautiful cottage, -in the formation and embellishment of which that gentleman has displayed -peculiar taste; and about half a mile to the west, within the park, is -Plasgwyn, the seat of the lute Rev. Henry Rowlands, and also Llanidan -Hall, the seat of Lord Boston. - -On Craig-y-Dinas, a rock on the side of the London and Holyhead road, -about midway between the Menai bridge and Plas Newydd, stands the -Anglesea Column, erected to commemorate the exploits of the noble -marquis. The first stone was laid June 18, 1816, being the anniversary -of the battle of Waterloo; and the pillar was completed September 8 in -the following year. Its height from the base is 100 feet, and the summit -of the hill on which it is built rises 260 feet above the level of the -sea. It forms an interesting and commanding object in the romantic -scenery of the neighbourhood. - - - -PONT-Y-GLYN, -(_Denbighshire_.) - -Bala 12 -Corwen 6 - -Pont-y-Glyn (the Bridge of the Precipices) is situated on the great -Holyhead and London road, between Corwen and Cerniogan Mawr. The woody -glen, at the head of which stands Pont-y-Glyn, with its prominent rocks, -nearly obscured by the surrounding foliage, forms a lovely picture. On a -sudden turn of the road, stands the bridge thrown over a chasm. Beneath -is the rugged and precipitous bed of the river, where, among immense -masses and fragments of rocks, the stream foams with violent impetuosity. -The cataract is not lofty, but from its being directly under the bridge, -where it is seen dashing among the dark opposing rocks, with the addition -of the pendant foliage from each side, the scene is finely picturesque -and elegant. The bridge rests upon the two nearly perpendicular rocks, -and appears to be 50 or 60 feet above the bed of the stream. The view -thence down the hollow is truly sublime. - - - -PWLLHELI -(_Caernarvonshire_.) - -Caernarvon 20 -Chester 93 -Cricaeth 8 -London 250 -Nevyn 7 - -Pwllheli, or the Salt Water Pit, is a pleasant market-town and sea-port, -the population of which is about 1500. The market is held on Wednesday -and Saturday. The Crown and Anchor, where post-chaises may be had, is -accounted the principal inn; the Ship and Ivy Bush are respectable. The -town, which is well built, has become a place of some resort for bathing. -The parish church, which is situated about half a mile to the north of -the town, is small and dilapidated. A new church, dedicated to St. -Peter, was consecrated by the Bishop of Bangor September 16th, 1834. It -is a neat and chaste edifice, capable of accommodating a large -congregation. Two banks have branches here, the North and South Wales -and the National Provincial. - -The town-hall, erected in 1818, is a neat substantial edifice, the lower -part of which is appropriated on market-days as shambles, and the upper -part contains an excellent assembly room, and a room in which the petty -sessions are held. The commerce consists entirely in the importation of -coal and of shop goods from Liverpool, for the supply of which to the -surrounding country Pwllheli forms a great depôt, and is esteemed the -cheapest place for living in North Wales. This is one of the -contributory boroughs which, with Caernarvon, returns a member to -parliament.—The surrounding scenery comprehends many pictures of grandeur -and of beauty; and a view from the town, embracing the whole extent of -the Snowdon mountains, the Merionethshire hills, and Cardigan bay, is -truly magnificent. Several improvements are in progress at Pwllheli. - - - -RHUDDLAN, -(_Flintshire_.) - -Abergele 5 -Flint 16 -Holywell 11 -London 220 - -Rhuddlan contains, with the chapelry of Rhyl, 2415 inhabitants. The town -lies in a flat, on the eastern hank of the river Clwyd, about two miles -from its influx into the sea. The river is here a little extended in -width, so as, at high water, to admit vessels of 50 tons up to the -bridge. - -Rhuddlan was formerly a place of considerable magnitude, but no traces of -its former importance are left, except in the ruins of its ancient -castle. Edward the First annexed to it the privileges of a free borough, -to facilitate an intercourse between the Welsh and English, for the -purpose of allaying the rooted enmity and the unhappy jealousies that had -for centuries rent the two countries. In all his proceedings, this -monarch exhibited strong features of policy. He had been early taught -that when stratagem would supply the place of men and treasure, it was at -least wise, if not always just, to adopt it. Hence originated the -statute of Rhuddlan, and hence was his infant son proclaimed Prince of -Wales. This statute, which was passed in parliament assembled here in -the year 1283, contains a set of regulations for the government of Wales; -it also recites many curious particulars relative to the Welsh customs -previous to Edward’s conquest, against which it was in a great measure -directed. - -Betwixt the town and the sea is a large marsh called Morva Rhuddlan (the -Marsh of Rhuddlan), where, in the year 725, a dreadful battle was fought -between the Saxons, under Offa, king of Mercia, and the Welsh, in which -the latter, after an obstinate conflict, were defeated with great -slaughter, Carodoc, king of North Wales, and many of his principal -chieftains, being among the slain. Such of the Welsh as escaped the -sword of the enemy, perished in the marsh, from the influx of the tides; -and all who were taken prisoners were inhumanly massacred, without regard -to age or sex. In commemoration of this disastrous event, was composed -the well-known Welsh air of “Morva Rhuddlan,” which is much admired for -the plaintive sweetness of its melody. - -The bridge at Rhuddlan consists of two arches, built or rebuilt in 1595, -with an impression of the arms of Hughes, Bishop of St. Asaph, upon one -of the battlements. - -At a private house is shewn part of the building where Edward the First -held the parliament which passed the statute of Rhuddlan, in 1283; the -observation of the tourist will be directed to it by the following -inscription on the building:—“This fragment is the remains of the -building where King Edward the First held his parliament, A.D. 1283, in -which was passed the statute of Rhuddlan, securing the Principality its -judicial rights and independence.” - - -Rhuddlan Castle - - -is built of red stone, nearly square, and has six towers. The principal -entrance appears to have been at the north-west angle, betwixt two round -towers; the two opposite to these are much shattered, but the others are -in a better state of preservation. There is some difference of opinion -as to the period at which this castle was erected. Two celebrated -historians, Powel and Camden, attribute it to Llywelyn ap Sitsyllt, who -reigned in Wales at the commencement of the eleventh century, and made it -the place of his residence. In 1063, three years before William the -Conqueror came to the throne, Rhuddlan castle was in the possession of -Gruffydd ap Llywelyn, prince of North Wales. It was in that year -attacked and burnt by Harold, the son of Godwin, Earl of Kent (afterwards -King of England), in retaliation for some depredations committed by the -Welsh on the English borders. It was subsequently the scene of many -interesting historical events. - -In 1399, the castle was seized by the Earl of Northumberland, previous to -the deposition of Richard the Second, who dined here, in company with the -Earl, in his way to Flint, where he was treacherously delivered into the -power of his rival, Bolingbroke. - -In the civil wars, Rhuddlan was garrisoned for the King, but was -surrendered to General Mytton in July, 1646, and in the December -following was ordered by the parliament to be dismantled.—It is at -present the property of the Bodryddan family. - - ANGLING STATION.—Cwm, three miles from Rhuddlan. - - - -RHYL, -(_Flintshire_.) - -Abergele 8 -Chester 30 -Holywell 13 -St. Asaph 5 - -Rhyl is situated at the termination of the Vale of Clwyd, near the mouth -of the river from which that beautiful valley takes its name, and is much -frequented as a bathing place during the summer months, for which -purpose, both from its immediate contiguity to the sea, and the extent -and firmness of its sands, it is admirably adapted. There are excellent -and commodious hotels, with smaller inns and lodging houses, intermingled -with several neat cottages, occupied for the summer residences of some of -the wealthy neighbours. There are machines for the accommodation of -bathers, and hot and cold baths, supplied with sea water, to which are -attached billiard and news rooms, and a spacious bowling green. - -A church has been erected, capable of containing 500 persons, in which -there is Divine service in the English language every Sunday. -Steam-packets ply regularly from Rhyl to Liverpool three times a week, -and occasionally from Rhyl to Beaumaris, affording its visitors an -opportunity of seeing some of the magnificent scenery of the Welsh coast. -Cars may be obtained at any time from the principal inns, and there is an -omnibus on the Voryd side, which runs regularly from Abergele, to meet -the packets. Extensive and important local improvements have lately been -effected, to add to the attractions of Rhyl as a marine residence. - -The shore presents no very striking scenery; still the antique castle of -Rhuddlan, in its sober hues, and the dark range of Clwydian hills, -stretching far into the distance, afford a scene of no ordinary beauty. -To the south is seen the bold promontory of the Great Ormeshead, beyond -which is Puffin Island; and when days are bright and skies are clear, the -distant hills of Cumberland may be dimly seen, losing themselves beyond -the waters of the Irish Sea.—Provisions of all kinds are cheap; and milk, -vegetables, and poultry, are abundantly supplied by the neighbouring -farmers. The lover of angling may find an opportunity of enjoying his -favourite amusement, as the Clwyd and Elwy, both celebrated trout -streams, are within one hour’s walk. - - - -RUABON, -(_Denbighshire_.) - -Chirk 4½ -Denbigh 28 -Llangollen 7 -Wrexham 5½ - -Ruabon, or Rhiw-abon, is a village containing about 1300 inhabitants, -situated on the road from Oswestry to Wrexham and Chester. The church, -dedicated to St. Mary, is an interesting and venerable structure, in -which are several splendid marble monuments. There is one by Rhysbrac, -to the memory of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, who was killed by a fall from -his horse, on the 26th of September, 1749, aged 41 years; the figure is -in a graceful attitude, as in the act of addressing an assembly. An -elegant Latin inscription, the composition of the late Dr. King, of St. -Mary’s Hall, Oxford, enumerates in eloquent detail his mental abilities, -social qualities, and public and private virtues. - -There are likewise two monuments by Nollekens, one to the memory of the -late Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart., and the other to his wife, Lady -Rennetta Williams Wynn. The latter represents that amiable lady in the -character of Hope, standing and reclining on an urn. The countenance, -attitude, and drapery, are exquisitely fine. The figure stands on a -pedestal, on which, in high relievo, is a coiled serpent, hieroglyphical -of eternity; and within is an inscription indicating that her ladyship -was third daughter of Charles Noel, Duke of Beaufort, and died July 25, -1769, at the early age of 23. The church was thoroughly repaired in -1772, at the expense of the first Sir Watkin, who presented an organ and -a small but elegant font of white marble, on the occasion of the baptism -of his eldest son, the late baronet. Dr. David Powel, the Welsh -historian, who was instituted to this vicarage in the year 1571, was -interred here. - -In the neighbourhood are numerous iron works and collieries. The British -iron company has very extensive works at Acrevair, in which several -hundred men are constantly employed. There are considerable coal works -at Cefn-Mawr, a large and populous village on the northern bank of the -Dee, near an elegant bridge thrown over the river, called New Bridge. -The Eagles or Wynnstay Arms Inn is a respectable house. Ruabon is one of -the principal stations of the Shrewsbury and Chester Railway.—A short -distance from the inn is - - -Wynnstay. - - -This extensive park, which is twelve miles in circumference, is entered -from the village by a plain but handsome gateway of modern erection, -opening into a straight avenue, nearly a mile in length, composed of -lofty trees of ancient growth, in which venerable oaks, stately elms, -beeches, and chesnuts, are intermingled; and at the extremity of which is -the mansion, the hospitable residence of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart., -beautifully situated on a fine and extensive lawn, gently sloping to a -noble and picturesque lake. The older portion of the building contains -the domestic offices and general departments for the accommodation of the -household. The modern part, erected by the first Sir Watkin, and -enlarged by the late baronet, is spacious and substantial structure: the -interior comprises several noble apartments, embellished with some -excellent family portraits, by Sir Joshua Reynolds and some of the best -masters, two full length paintings of Charles II. and his Queen, and -several other pictures of merit. - -The park is enriched with some of the noblest trees in the Principality, -and comprehends much variety and beauty of scenery: there are handsome -lodge entrances into it from various parts of the surrounding district. - -At a short distance from the hall, situated in charming pleasure grounds, -is a cold bath, near which stands a handsome fluted column, erected after -a design by the late Mr. James Wyatt: it is one hundred feet high, -ornamented on the faces with festooned wreaths of oak leaves, and at the -angles with eagles, finely moulded in bronze; the capital is surmounted -by an entablature supporting a circular platform, surrounded with an iron -balustrade, to which there is an ascent from the interior by a flight of -spiral steps, and having in the centre a circular pedestal, twelve feet -high, on which is placed a massive vase of bronze, enriched with goats’ -heads. Over the door leading to the ascent, is a tablet bearing the -following inscription:—“To the memory of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart. -who died on the 29th of July, MDCCLXXXIX. this column was erected by his -affectionate mother, Frances Williams Wynn;” and on the north side, in -letters of copper, is the inscription—“Filium optimus. Mater, eheu! -superstes.” Near this column is a fine sheet of water, bounded by Watt’s -Dyke, which here intersects the park, and from which the mansion -originally derived the name of Wattstay, changed by Sir John Wynn, to its -present appellation. - -Near the southern extremity of the woods is a cenotaph, erected by the -late Sir Watkin, from a design by Sir Jeffrey Wyatville, to the memory of -his brother officers and soldiers who were slain during the rebellion in -Ireland in 1798: it stands on an eminence overlooking a deep ravine, -called Nant y Bele (the Dingle of the Marten), through which the river -Dee urges it rapid course along a narrow channel, richly fringed with -impending woods. From this spot there is a most magnificent prospect, -embracing a vast extent of the counties of Caernarvon, Denbigh, Flint, -Chester, and Salop, Chirk Castle and its noble park, the whole of the -beautiful vale of Llangollen, including the stupendous aqueduct of -Pont-y-Cysylltau, and the majestic ruins of Castell Dinas Brân, with the -stately range of mountains in the distance. - -A gay archery _fête_ of the British Bowmen, attended by 300 of the -aristocracy of the kingdom, was held at Wynnstay in 1846. - - ANGLING STATION.—The Dee. - - - -RUTHIN, -(_Denbighshire_.) - -Bala 22 -Chester 22 -Corwen 12 -Denbigh 8 -Llangollen 15 -London 210 -Mold 10 -St. Asaph 14 -Wrexham 18 - -Ruthin (Rhudd-ddin or Rhuthyn) is beautifully situated on the aclivity of -an eminence in the picturesque Vale of Clwyd, at the base of which and -through the lower part of the town flows the river from which the vale -takes its name, at this place an inconsiderable stream, serving only to -work some mills in the neighbourhood. The parish contains 3333 -inhabitants. The appearance of the town is pleasing, and the -neighbourhood is embellished with numerous gentlemen’s seats, and -commands much varied scenery. The principal inns are the White Lion and -Cross Foxes. - -The government of Ruthin is vested in a municipal corporation. It is one -of the contributory boroughs, with Denbigh, Holt, and Wrexham, to return -a member to parliament. Ruthin has been made a polling-place in the -election of knights of the shire; and from its central situation, it has -been selected, in preference to the town of Denbigh, for holding the -assizes for the county: the quarter sessions are held alternately here -and at Denbigh. The town-hall, situated in the market-place, was built -in 1663, and is used for holding the courts leet and baron. Prior to the -erection of the county-hall, the quarter sessions were held there. The -county-hall is a modern structure, fronted with white stone, and, with -the county gaol and house of correction, also situated here, is highly -creditable to the skill of the architect, Mr. Turner. - -The church is an interesting and ancient structure, with a fine roof of -carved oak, panelled, richly sculptured, and apparently of the time of -Henry the Seventh. The church was changed into a collegiate chapter A.D. -1310, by John de Grey, who formed an establishment of several regular -canons, and endowed it with valuable lands and numerous privileges. The -apartments of the canons were connected with the church by a cloister, of -which a remaining portion has been converted into a residence for the -warden. - -The town contains an endowed free grammar school, a national school -supported by voluntary subscriptions, and places of worship for various -dissenting congregations.—The present rector is the Venerable Archdeacon -Newcome, author of Memoirs of Dr. Goodman, Dean of Westminster, and Dr. -Godfrey Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester, and also of some local histories. - -The ancient castle occupied the declivity of a hill, fronting the Vale of -Clwyd towards the west, and, from the extensive foundations and remaining -portions of the walls, appears to have been a structure of great strength -and magnificence: the remains consist chiefly of fragments of the towers, -dungeons, and ruined walls. This fortress was built by Edward the First, -who in 1281 gave it, with the hundred of Dyffryn Clwyd, to Reginald de -Grey; from the family of Greys it devolved to Richard Earl of Kent, who -sold it to Henry the Seventh. It was afterwards granted to Dudley Earl -of Warwick, by Queen Elizabeth. After the restoration, the castle and -its dependencies were purchased by Sir Richard Myddelton. - -The elegant castellated mansion erected by the Hon. F. West, within the -ruins of the old castle, forms a beautiful feature in the prospect of the -town. The architect having blended the ancient and modern parts with -harmonious effect, the structure displays great taste on the part of the -projector. From various parts of the site are several rich and extensive -prospects. No tourist should omit a visit to Ruthin Castle, which -abounds with objects of interest to the student of British history. - -Near the town-hall is a rude block of lime-stone, called Maen Huail, on -which, it is said, the celebrated Prince Arthur beheaded his rival Huail, -brother to Gildas the historian. Ruthin mill, a curious ancient edifice, -having on the apex of the eastern gable a red stone cross, is supposed to -have been originally the chapel of the cell of White Friars, mentioned by -Leland as formerly existing here, but of which no records are preserved. - -Dr. Goodman, Dean of Westminster, one of the translators of Archbishop -Parker’s Bible, and principal promoter of Bishop Morgan’s Welsh -translation; Edward Thelwall, tutor to Lord Herbert of Chirbury; Dr. -Parry, Bishop of St. Asaph; Dr. Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester; Sir Eubule -Thelwall, Knt., principal and second founder of Jesus College, Oxford; -and Sir Thomas Exmewe, Lord Mayor of London in 1517, were natives of this -place. - - -Vale of Clwyd. - - -This beautiful valley, called by the Welsh Dyffryn Clwyd (the Vale of the -Flat), commences three or four miles south of Ruthin; enclosed by -mountains, whose brown and barren summits form a fine contrast to the -verdant meads and luxuriant fields beneath, which as far as the eye can -reach present a most pleasing picture. Towns, villages, and mansions, -thickly studded over the country, tend still more to enliven the cheering -scene, which is exceedingly beautiful and attractive. - -This vale is the most extensive of any in Wales, being about twenty-four -miles in length, above Ruthin to Rhuddlan, and varying from five to seven -miles in breadth; it contains the three considerable towns of Denbigh, -Ruthin, and St. Asaph. There are several of the adjacent heights whence -the vale may be seen to advantage; such are the Bwlch Pen-Barras, on the -old road to Mold, about four miles from Ruthin, and that part of the new -road by which the traveller descends into the vale, commencing about -three miles from the latter town; but the best station for an extended -view, is the eastern ridge of the mountain, between Dymeirchion and -Bodfari, about three hundred yards from Bryn Bella. The view presents a -most enchanting panorama of natural scenery. - - ANGLING STATION.—The Clwyd. - - - -ST. ASAPH, -(_Flintshire_.) - -Abergele 7 -Conway 18 -Chester 28 -Denbigh 6 -Holywell 10 -London 217 -Rhuddlan 3 - -St. Asaph, commonly called Llan Elwy, derived its origin and name from -the erection of a church on the bank of the river Elwy, about the middle -of the sixth century. The city is beautifully situated on the gentle -aclivity of an eminence, washed on the eastern side by the river Clwyd, -and on the west by the Elwy, which unite at the distance of about a mile -to the north. The parish contains 3338 inhabitants. Over the Elwy, at -the extremity of the principal street, is a handsome stone bridge of five -arches; and over the Clwyd is a fine bridge of more modern erection, -within a quarter of a mile to the east of the cathedral church. The -White Lion and the Mostyn Arms are the principal inns. St. Asaph has -been added to the other boroughs of this county, now eight in number, -which unitedly return one member to parliament. - -The approach from Holywell to St. Asaph is commodious and picturesque. -The view of the city is peculiarly striking; its elevated situation on an -eminence near the termination of the rich and fertile Vale of Clwyd, -crowned on the summit with the cathedral, and having the parish church at -its base, makes it a conspicuous object from every point; and the -luxuriant groves of trees in which it is deeply embosomed, give to it a -romantic appearance. The surrounding scenery, which abounds with objects -of interest and beauty, is seen to great advantage from the heights of -the city and from the grounds in the immediate vicinity. - -The cathedral consists chiefly of the structure raised by Bishop Anian, -the second of that name, about the year 1284, and after its demolition by -Owen Glyndwr, it was restored by Bishop Redman, towards the close of the -fifteenth century, with the exception of the choir, which was rebuilt -about the year 1770, by the Dean and Chapter, with funds which had been -vested in their hands as trustees for that purpose. It is a cruciform -structure, principally in the decorated style of English architecture, -with a low square embattled tower, rising from the intersection of the -nave and transepts, and having at the north-east angle a staircase -turret: the exterior is of simple but good design; the buttresses are few -and of very bold character, and the arch of the west door is plainly -moulded: the east end is ornamented with a window, which is said to be a -fac-simile of the east window in Tintern abbey, in Monmouthshire, and in -1810 was filled with beautifully stained glass, at the expense of the -Dean and Chapter, aided by the contributions of the gentry in the -neighbourhood. The “good Bishop Beveridge” was consecrated to this see -in 1704. - -The interior of the cathedral contains some interesting monuments; an -altar-tomb, with a recumbent figure in episcopal robes, is said to -commemorate the munificent prelate, Davydd ab Owen, who was interred here -in 1512; and near the west door is a painted tomb, with an inscription to -the memory of Bishop Isaac Barrow, who died in 1680. There is a monument -of white marble, to the memory of Dean Shipley, by Ternouth, erected by -subscription about the year 1829, at an expense of £600, consisting of a -full-length figure of the Dean in his canonicals, in a sitting posture; -and also a neat altar-tomb monument to the memory of Bishop Luxmore, who -died in January, 1830, from a design by T. Jones, Esq. of Chester. Among -other objects of interest to admirers of taste and genius, we may mention -a mural tablet to the memory of that charming poetess, the gifted Mrs. -Hemans. The choir is neatly fitted up, and the general appearance of the -interior remarkably gratifying, from its appropriate solemnity and the -excellent order in which it is kept. A new organ was erected a few years -since. - -The episcopal palace, situated at a short distance to the west of the -cathedral, was rebuilt upon a more extensive scale and in an appropriate -style, at the expense of the late Bishop. The deanery, about a quarter -of a mile from the cathedral, and on the west bank of the river Elwy, was -also rebuilt by the present Dean. Dr. T. V. Short is the present Bishop -of St. Asaph. The parochial church, dedicated to St. Asaph and St. -Kentegern, is situated at the base of the eminence, of which the -cathedral occupies the summit; it is a small edifice without a tower, and -is supposed to have been erected about the year 1524. There are places -of worship for Independents, and Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists. - -The views in the neighbourhood are delightfully picturesque and varied. - - [Picture: Picture of fishermen on lake] - -There are numerous elegant mansions within the parish; among the most -conspicuous are—Kinmel, the seat of Lord Dinorben; Bodelwyddan, the seat -of Sir John Williams, Bart., one of the handsomest residences of North -Wales; Pengwern, that of Lord Mostyn, built about the beginning of the -last century; Cefn, that of Edward Lloyd, Esq.; and Bronwylfa, the -residence of Colonel Sir Henry Browne, erected in the year 1660, and -enlarged in 1816. In this last mansion are some valuable trophies taken -during the late war, amongst which are, Napoleon Buonaparte’s travelling -map and book of roads of the French empire, in splendid morocco cases, -emblazoned with the imperial arms, taken from his library at -Fontainbleau, by Sir Henry, in 1815 and a French field-marshal’s baton, -two feet three inches in length, covered with purple velvet, ornamented -with golden bees, and surmounted with an imperial crown, taken in -Silesia, in 1812, by a division of Blucher’s corps. - -In the township of Cefn Meriadog are some magnificent natural caverns, -extending for a considerable distance into the limestone rocks; in some -parts of those the roof is more than forty feet in height, and near the -river Elwy the base of the rock is perforated by a lofty natural arch, 21 -yards in length, and 36 feet high, through which is a road capable of -admitting a wagon loaded with hay. Various fossil remains have been -found in these caverns, which have been considered by Professor Buckland -as worthy of a personal scrutiny on the spot. - - ANGLING STATION.—Bodfari, four miles from St. Asaph. - - - -SNOWDON, -(_Caernarvonshire_.) - - -A chain of the highest mountains in Wales extends across Caernarvonshire, -from Bardsey Island to Penmaen Bach, near Conway bay, gradually rising -from each extremity towards the centre, which is occupied by Snowdon. -The name of this mountain was first given to it by the Saxons, and -signifies a hill covered with snow; but the Welsh call all this adjacent -range Creigian-yr-Eyri (the Eagle’s Cliffs;) for it is not true, as has -been asserted, that snow may be found upon it through the whole year. -The temperature at the summit is generally very low, even in summer. In -July, just after sunrise, the thermometer has been observed at 34 deg. -and in August at 48 deg. early in the afternoon. - -The perpendicular height of Snowdon is by late admeasurements 1190 yards -above the level of the sea. This makes it, according to Pennant, 240 -yards higher than Cader Idris. Some state Whernside, in Yorkshire, to be -the highest mountain in South Britain, and more than 4000 feet. Helvelyn -is 3324 feet, Benlomond 3262. Mont Blanc rises 15,680 feet; the American -Chimboraco is 20,909 feet, the highest ground ever trodden by man; and -the mountain of Thibet above 25,000 feet, the highest at present known. - -The air on the top of Snowdon is sharp and bracing, and like that in all -other mountain districts, is salubrious and congenial to health and -longevity. It is seldom that persons who have taste and leisure visit -this part of Caernarvonshire without ascending to the top of our British -Alps; and those who make a tour from motives of curiosity would think the -omission almost inexcusable. An important consideration for the tourist -is the point whence he should commence the ascent for the towering summit -of this majestic mountain. Dolbadarn, Llyn Cwellyn, Beddgelert, and -Llanberis, all put in their claims for eligibility as a starting-place, -and at each of these stations trusty guides may be engaged. We are -inclined to the opinion that the Victoria Hotel at Llanberis is the spot -from which the most easy and convenient ascent may be effected. - -It may readily be imagined that every resting point in climbing this -commanding eminence must reveal, amidst the magnificent scenery of so -romantic a district, views of surpassing grandeur and beauty: and such -indeed is the case to an extent which the most vivid imagination can -scarcely conceive. The enthusiastic author of “The Beauties, Harmonies, -and Sublimity of Nature,” gives the following glowing description of the -prospects from the summit:— - - “After climbing over masses of crags and rocks, we ascended the peak - of Snowdon. Arrived at its summit, a scene presented itself - magnificent beyond the powers of language! Indeed, language is - indigent and impotent when it would presume to sketch scenes on which - the Great Eternal has placed his matchless finger with delight. - Faint are thy broad and deep delineations, immortal Salvator Rosa! - Powerless and feeble are your inspirations, genius of Thomson, - Virgil, and Lucretius! From this point are seen five-and-twenty - lakes. Seated on one of its crags, it was long before the eye, - unaccustomed to measure such elevations, could accommodate itself to - scenes so admirable; the whole appearing as if there had been a war - of the elements, and as if we were the only inhabitants of the globe - permitted to contemplate the ruins of the world. Rocks and - mountains, which, when observed from below, bear all the evidence of - sublimity, when viewed from the summit of Snowdon, are blended with - others as dark, as rugged, and as elevated as themselves; the whole - resembling the swellings of an agitated ocean. The extent of this - prospect appears almost unlimited. The four kingdoms are seen at - once: Wales, England, Scotland, and Ireland! forming the finest - panorama the empire can boast. The circle begins with the mountains - of Cumberland and Westmoreland; those of Ingleborough and Penygent, - in the county of York, and the hills of Lancashire forefollow; then - are observed the counties of Chester, Flint, Denbigh, and a portion - of Montgomeryshire. Nearly the whole of Merioneth succeeds; and - drawing a line with the eye along the diameter of the circle, we take - in the regions stretching from the triple crown of Cader Idris to the - sterile crags of Carnedds David and Llywelyn. Snowdon, rising in the - centre, appears as if he could touch the south with his right hand, - and the north with his left. ‘Surely,’ thought Colonna, ‘Cesar sat - upon these crags, when he formed the daring conception of governing - the world!’ From Cader Idris, the eye, pursuing the orbit of the - bold geographical line, glances over the bay of Cardigan, and reposes - for a while on the summit of the Rivals. After observing the - indented shores of Caernarvonshire, it travels along a line of ocean, - till, in the extremity of the horizon, the blue mountains of Wicklow - terminate the perspective. Those mountains gradually sink along the - coast till they are lost to the eye; which, ranging along the - expanse, at length, as weary of the journey, reposes on the Island of - Man, and the distant mountains of Scotland. The intermediate space - is occupied by the sides and summits of mountains, hollow crags, - masses of rocks, the towers of Caernarvon, the fields of Anglesea, - with woods, lakes, and glens, scattered in magnificent confusion. A - scene like this commands our feelings to echo, as it were, in unison - to its grandeur and sublimity: the thrill of astonishment, and the - transport of imagination, seem to contend for the mastery, and nerves - are touched that never thrilled before.” - -But it is not always thus. Earthly pleasures are often greater in the -anticipation than the enjoyment; and ardent hopes are subject to -occasional disappointments. Bright as the day may be, mountain mists -will sometimes intervene, and passing clouds suddenly draw a curtain over -these glorious revelations of Almighty Power. Take, for instance, the -narrative of the King of Saxony’s ascent up Snowdon in July, 1844, his -Majesty’s excursion being made from Beddgelert:— - - “Early this morning, according to our previous design, we made the - ascent of Snowdon: the appearance of the weather was by no means - encouraging, the sky was lowering, and the clouds hung deep around - the mountain top. Still there was no rain, many signs of a - favourable change, and we took our chance of the advantages in our - favour and set out. We made early preparation for our journey, and, - at seven o’clock, mounted a light carriage, accompanied by a skilful - guide. We followed the road towards the foot of the mountain, as far - up its flank as it was accessible to any description of carriage. We - commenced the ascent. Our path lay for some distance over wet - pasture and spongy meadows; after which, the path became steeper, and - occasional masses of bold projecting rocks occurred. We were not the - only travellers, whom the day tempted to try their good fortune on - the summit of the highest mountain in England. Some ladies, mounted - on ponies, rode sometimes before and sometimes behind us, and several - parties followed them on foot. The summit of the mountain lay - concealed in clouds; the rocks stood forth bold and black from the - green of the Alpine meadows, on which the beautiful yellow - _anthericum ossifragum_ grows in great profusion, and a cold wind - blew from the ravines which skirted our path. A young Alpine lark, - only imperfectly fledged, fluttered along the ground before our feet; - our guide easily caught it with his hands, but the old ones flew - around, uttering such painful screams, that I induced him again to - put the poor panting little creature upon the grass, behind a large - block of stone. When we ascended a little further, the view to the - westward became partially free, and we saw the sea, the isle of - Anglesea, and Caernarvon Castle. As we ascended, however, the clouds - again closed around us, and finally we found ourselves completely - enveloped in the penetrating fog of these moist goddesses. The - ascent also in many places now became difficult; the wind blew cold - along the side of some rocky walls, or from the depths of some - neighbouring ravine; the thick fogs continued to roll more densely - along the mountain sides; but fortunately, so far, they did not - thoroughly penetrate our clothes with their moisture. - - “Still onward, from height to height! deep ravines lay at our side, - the bottom of which, filled with thick fog, yawned horribly below. - Vegetation now almost wholly disappeared, except merely a few rare - Alpine plants, and on every side of us rose lofty crags of black - _chlorite slate_. Having taken some repose after the efforts of the - ascent, behind a projecting rock which sheltered us from the wind, we - again set forth, and in about a quarter of an hour (two hours in all) - we reached the pinnacle of the mountain—4348 feet above the level of - the sea. View there was none! We found refuge in a small wooden - shed, erected for the protection of travellers from the rain and - wind, in which the host kept up a welcome fire. The man presently - prepared a singular brown mixture, which he sold for coffee, and - furnished some grayish oatmeal cake as an accompaniment. There were - no spirituous liquors of any description to be had, because the - occupier, with no small degree of self-satisfaction, gave us to - understand that his wooden hut was to be regarded as a _Temperance - Inn_. Not far from this mountain hotel, which I must state to be the - first imperfect house of accommodation we had yet met in England, was - a small stone hut, in which the rest of the travellers, together with - their ponies, had found a harbour not much better than our own. - - “Having spent some time upon the summit, dried ourselves, and ranged - about among the craggy rocks and through the fog, we found our visit - was in vain—no hopes of the weather clearing were longer entertained, - and we prepared to proceed on our descent. Before we had descended - far from the summit, the clouds presented occasional breaks, and we - were able to snatch partial views into the beautiful deep valleys - which lie between the converging ridges of the mountain; and on one - occasion the clouds rose like a curtain, and revealed to us a - splendid prospect of the sea. In these occasional glimpses, we - perceived for a moment that the declivities of the mountain were - enjoying the full beams of the sun, and immediately we were again - closely enveloped in our foggy mantle of clouds. There was a - continual play of currents of air and waves of fog with the earth. - Such phenomena furnish highly interesting subjects of contemplation - to those who have greater leisure for their contemplation than we - ourselves had. Of such extraordinary atmospheric phenomena, however, - it may be said, they show the life of the clouds, but cloud the image - of life! If, however, the observation of such phenomena be made the - chief object of a whole excursion, they will be found to have - something in them unsatisfying. The unconscious life of nature - always falls in value in the eyes of him who has thought upon and - experienced the mighty movements and impulses of the mind and - feelings. As I have already said, what signify earth, and suns, and - planets, if there were no eye to see, no intelligence to give them - life? - - “Having proceeded somewhat further on the descent, our guide prepared - to follow a different route in our return, through a deep precipitous - valley, in which the king immediately acquiesced. The task, however, - was by no means easy; it involved the necessity of going straight - down a sharp declivity of the mountain, at least 1000 feet high, and - very sparingly covered with moist earth and tufts of grass. We were - obliged to aid ourselves as well as we could by the firmness of our - tread, taking a zigzag course, and by the appliances of our hands and - sticks, at length reached the bottom in safety. The path, however - formidable to us, would, undoubtedly, not have presented many - difficulties to a well-trained Alpine hunter; to those, however, who - are not accustomed to such clambering, it must be regarded as making - a severe demand upon the exercise of their muscular power, and as a - species of training which, when successfully completed, must always - result in good. Even on reaching the valley, there was no path, and - we were obliged to make our way over stock and stone, through bog and - brook, till we came to a lower and a smoother region. During our - descent, we were obliged to endure the alternative of heat and cold, - of sunshine and rain; at length we reached some mines, at which rude - paths began to appear, and presently after found ourselves at our - carriages, and drove by another road again back to Beddgelert. On - this road, too, we enjoyed the sight of some splendid mountain - scenery. The weather had now become clear and sunny, while the top - of Snowdon still lay thickly enveloped in masses of dark clouds. A - small lake lay stretched out before us in the vale, full of - picturesque beauty, and noble mountains beside and beyond, rose and - towered one above another. I heartily envied an artist who had - established his _studio_ on the edge of a mountain brook, and - appeared to be diligently engaged in his work. What a pleasure it - must be, to be engaged in an attempt to give a faithful delineation - of such noble forms! About half-past two we reached the hotel at - Beddgelert, and our mountain excursion was at an end.” - -Let us be very earnest in impressing upon the minds of all tourists one -important injunction,—_never ascend Snowdon without a guide_. It is -unwise and perilous, even in the brightest weather, to make such an -attempt. A melancholy instance of this venturous spirit occurred in the -autumn of 1846, when the Rev. H. S. Starr, of Northampton, ascended the -mountain without a guide; and doubtless perished in some of its bogs or -precipitous defiles, as from that period till now, no trace of this -unfortunate clergyman has been discovered. - - For Angling Stations, see Llanberis. - - - -TAL-Y-LLYN, -(_Merionethshire_.) - -Dolgelley 8 -Dinas Mowddwy 11 -Machynlleth 8 -Towyn 10 - -This is a very picturesque little village, about half way between -Machynlleth and Dolgelley, deriving its name from the church, at the head -of a beautiful lake, appropriately called Llyn Mwyngil, (The Lake of the -Charming Retreat,) from the west end of which issues the river Dysyni, -taking its course to the sea through Towyn Marsh. The scenery is -remarkably romantic, and is rendered more so by the lakes which are -within the limits of the parish. That of Tal-y-llyn is small but -beautiful; its greatest breadth is not more than half a mile, and its -length between one and two miles. Its northern boundaries consist of -rich pasture land, while on the south a high green hill, covered only -with short herbage, in fact a mere sheep walk, rears itself to the -clouds, and extends the whole length. Its only piscatory productions are -trout and eels; the latter attaining a good size, and finding a safe -protection in the deep coat of moss which covers the bottom. Of the -trout there are two species, the large lake trout and the common river -trout, the latter finding their way into the lake by two or three streams -which feed it from the mountain; these never attain any considerable -size, but the others, being indigenous to the pool, grow to a large size. -The finest, which are caught with a fly, vary from half a pound to -between one and two pounds; one weighing more than 12lb. was found a few -winters ago, frozen under the ice. The lake is the property of Colonel -Vaughan, who purchased it for no other purpose than that of affording his -friends the enjoyment of angling therein. The stranger, who is perfectly -unknown to the generous-hearted Welshman, is equally welcome to -participate in the sport, without the formality of begging a day’s -fishing, or even intimating his intention to the proprietor. A new and -commodious inn, near the village, was built last year by Colonel Vaughan: -it affords good accommodations, and the charges are very moderate. - -Beside the lake already mentioned, there is another under the summit of -Cader Idris, called Llyn Cau, (the Pool of the Chasm,) from its being -situated under vast cliffs; it is about a quarter of a mile long, and -nearly of equal breadth, and has the appearance of the crater of a -volcano, at the head of the chasm, through which a stream runs from the -lake, and forms a fine cataract, close to the ancient house of Dolydd -Cau, and then unites with another river, which meanders along the level -vale below, to the upper end of Llyn Mwyngil. The vale in which it is -situated is so contracted, as to leave, for a considerable part of its -length, only a very narrow road on each side of the lake, from the clear -surface of which are reflected its precipitous declivities. Towards the -extremity of the vale, the lake contracts gradually into the form of a -river, rushing with much force through a stone arch into a very narrow -pass, having on one side the church, and on the other a small cluster of -houses, which form the village, embosomed in trees, and assuming a -romantically beautiful appearance. - -At the distance of a mile or two from the church, the hills almost meet, -and present a sterile and rugged aspect; they are broken into numberless -crags, of which some are vertical and sharply pointed, but the greater -number project horizontally, and impend with threatening gloom over the -vale beneath. One of these precipices, from its resemblance in form to a -harp, has been called Pen y Delyn; and another, from a tradition that it -was formerly the practice to throw thieves from its summit, has been -denominated Llan-y-Lladron (the Thieves’ Leap), a practice corresponding -with that related of the Tarpeian rock at Rome. - - ANGLING STATION.—The Lake: good fishing. A boat. - - - -TOWYN, -(_Merionethshire_.) - -Aberdovey 4 -Barmouth 12 -Dolgelley 16 -London 226 -Machynlleth 14 - -Towyn is a market-town beautifully situated at the distance of about a -mile from the sea-coast, near the mouth of the river Dysyni, in a small -but pleasant vale. The return of the population for the town and parish -is 2694 inhabitants. - -During summer, the place is much frequented for sea-bathing, by persons -who prefer retirement to the bustle of a more fashionable watering place. -Valetudinarians are also attracted hither by St. Cadvan’s Well, much -celebrated for the cure of rheumatic, scrofulous, and cutaneous -disorders. The ride over the sands to Aberdovey, a rising place about -four miles distant, is very pleasant. A beautiful line of road to that -interesting village has been constructed, and is continued from that -place to Pennal, abounding with picturesque scenery, and commanding views -of Snowdon, Arran Mowddwy, Cader Idris, and Plinlimmon. - -Towyn is one of the places at which the poll is appointed to be taken in -the election of the parliamentary representative of the county. The -church, dedicated to St. Cadvan, is an ancient cruciform structure, in -the Norman style of architecture, containing some curious old monuments, -which the inquisitive stranger ought not to leave unnoticed. - -On a steep hill near the town are some remains of an ancient castle of -great strength; the fortifications comprehend the entire summit of the -eminence: one of the apartments, thirty-six feet in diameter, was hewn -out of the solid rock, Craig-y-Deryn (the Bird’s Bock), situated in the -vale of Dysyni, about three or four miles from Towyn, is in the highest -degree wild and romantic. A small but picturesque waterfall may be seen -at Dôlgôch. - -At a small distance from the town is Ynys-y-maengwyn, a noble mansion, -pleasantly situated in grounds tastefully laid out, and embellished with -flourishing plantations and timber of ancient growth, among which is an -evergreen oak, considered to be the finest tree of its kind in the -kingdom. The garden is very extensive, and contains many rare trees and -plants. - -The angler will find excellent amusement in the Dysyni, which, after -rolling through a rude assemblage of rugged mountains, flows through the -fertile vale of Towyn, passing first by Peniarth, a seat belonging to the -Wynn family, and then by Ynys-y-maengwyn, and finally entering Cardigan -bay, about a mile eastward of Towyn. This is an excellent river for -salmon, and it contains some remarkably dark and deep pools, more -especially near Peniarth, where the river winds close by the house; the -angler will also find good sport farther up the mountains. - - ANGLING STATION.—The river, up to Tal-y-Llyn. - - - -TRAWS-FYNYDD, -(_Merionethshire_.) - -Bala 18 -Dolgelley 12 - -This village is situated on the road from Dolgelley to Tan-y-Bwlch, in an -exposed and mountainous district. The church is an ancient structure of -the old English style of architecture; the parish is of vast extent, -being above ten miles in length, and eight in breadth, consisting chiefly -of barren mountains, used only as sheep-walks. At this place a guide may -be had to the waterfalls of Pistyll-y-Cain and Rhaiadr-y-Mawddach, -distant about three or four miles. - -On the road side towards Ffestiniog is Llyn Rathlyn, a small lake, noted -for a singular variety of perch, having the lower extremity of the -back-bone strangely distorted. The celebrated Humphrey Lloyd, who was -consecrated Bishop of Bangor in 1673, was born at Bôd-y-Vuddai, in the -parish of Traws-fynydd. - - - -TREMADOC, -(_Caernarvonshire_.) - -Barmouth 20 -Ditto, by Tan-y-Bwlch 30 -Beddgelert 7 -Caernarvon 20 -Ffestiniog 13 -Harlech 10 -Ditto, by Tan-y-Bwlch 20 -Pwllheli 14 -Tan-y-Bwlch 10 - -Tremadoc is a market-town and sea-port of very recent origin, and is a -signal instance of the triumph of perseverance over apparently -insurmountable local difficulties. It derives its name from its -enterprising founder, the late Wm. Alexander Madock, Esq. This -gentleman, having projected a plan for regaining from the sea a portion -of the land on the western side of the wide sandy estuary called the -Traeth Mawr, purchased the estate of Tan-yr-Allt, in the immediate -vicinity, in 1798, and in 1800 succeeded in recovering a tract of nearly -two thousand acres of rich land, then forming Penmorfa Marsh, which now -produces excellent crops of wheat, barley, and clover, to which he gave -the appropriate name of Glandwr. - -Encouraged by the success of his first attempt, Mr. Madock was induced to -undertake the more arduous enterprise of reclaiming the whole of the -Traeth Mawr; and for this purpose he obtained in 1808 an act of -parliament, vesting in him and his heirs the whole extent of these sands, -from Pont Aberglâslyn, at their head, to the point of Gêst, at their -lower extremity. Notwithstanding the numerous unforeseen obstacles which -threatened to frustrate the undertaking, Mr. Madock succeeded in -constructing across the mouth of the Traeth Mawr, at the eastern -extremity of Cardigan bay, an embankment of earth and stones, nearly one -mile in length, from north to south, varying from 100 to 400 feet in -breadth at the base, and diminishing gradually to the summit, which is -100 feet high from the foundation. By means of this embankment, a line -of communication has been formed between the counties of Caernarvon and -Merioneth, and a tract of more than 2700 acres of land was recovered from -the sea, besides a vast extent of adjoining land, which was before -overflowed by the tides, but which is now, by draining, rendered -susceptible of cultivation. This arduous enterprise was completed in -1811, at an expense of more than £100,000; and, including the lands -previously recovered, not less than 7,000 acres have been gained. - -The town is situated by the side of a lofty mountain, on the western side -of Traeth Mawr, on a portion of the tract first recovered from the sea, -and is built in the form of a square quadrangular area, having in the -centre a lofty column, round the pedestal of which there is a flight of -twelve steps. On the eastern side a commodious market-house has been -erected, above which is an assembly-room. Mr. Madock also built, at his -own expense, a handsome church, in the late style of English -architecture, with a lofty spire, which forms an interesting object as -seen from the sea-coast. - -Tan-yr-Allt, the seat of the late W. A. Madock, Esq., is a spacious -modern mansion of elegant design, situated on a rock overlooking the -town. Morfa Lodge, and Tuhwnt-i’r-Bwlch, erected also by that gentleman, -are handsome villas in the immediate vicinity of the town. Captain -Parry, R.N. of Llwyn-on, Denbighshire, has also a seat called Aberdunant, -between this place and Beddgelert. - -With a view to promote the commercial interests of the town which he had -founded, Mr. Madock, in 1821, obtained an act of parliament for improving -the navigation of this part of the bay on which it is situated, and thus -rendered it accessible to vessels of three hundred tons burden: -commodious quays and wharfs were also constructed. - -The last improvement carried into effect was the erection of Port Madoc, -about one mile from the town, where many good houses have been built. -The principal exports are slates, from the Ffestiniog quarries, and -copper ore, which is brought from the neighbouring mines. The chief -imports are timber, coal, and lime. A rail-road also runs to this place -from the quarries and mines in the neighbourhood. The road from Tremadoc -to Beddgelert commands to great advantage the scenery of the -Merionethshire side of the Traeth, and affords a delightful ride to Pont -Aberglaslyn and its vicinity. - - - -WELSHPOOL, -(_Montgomeryshire_.) - -Llanfair 8 -London 171 -Montgomery 8 -Newtown 14 -Oswestry 16 -Shrewsbury 18 - -This town is called Welsh, to distinguish it from a town of the same name -in Dorsetshire, and Pool, from its proximity to a piece of water called -Llyn-du Pool, now within the inclosure of Powys park. The town, which -Leland describes as being in the reign of Henry the Eighth, “the best -market in Powys,” still retains that character, in addition to which it -may justly be regarded as the modern capital of the county, and, with the -parish, contains 4626 inhabitants. The town has a cheerful and -prepossessing appearance. The flannel manufacture is carried on here, -but upon a less scale than at Llanidloes or Newtown. A considerable -trade is carried on in malt, and there are likewise several large -tanneries. Welshpool is made contributory with Llanidloes, Llanfyllyn, -Machynlleth, Montgomery, and Newtown, in returning a member to -parliament. The assizes for the county are held here. The town-hall is -a commodious building of brick, in the centre of the principal street. - -The church, with the exception of the chancel and the tower, was rebuilt -in 1774. It is in the early style of English architecture, with a lofty -square embattled tower, and its interior accommodation was enlarged by -the addition of galleries in 1824. Amongst the communion plate, there is -a chalice of fine gold, holding one quart, and valued at £170; engraved -on it is a Latin inscription, stating it to have been presented to the -church of Pool, by Thomas Davies, Governor-general of the English -colonies on the western coast of Africa, in gratitude for the -preservation of his life during his residence in that unhealthy clime. - - -Powys Castle, - - -the seat of the Earl of Powys, is a stately but irregular pile of -building, venerable for its antiquity: it is pleasantly situated in a -well-wooded park, at the distance of a mile from the town, on the right -of the road leading to Montgomery, and occupies a commanding site on a -ridge of rocks overlooking a vast extent of richly diversified country, -the greater part of which was formerly subject to its lord. The views -from its extensive and richly wooded park are remarkably interesting and -beautiful. - - -Angling Stations. - - _Distances from Welshpool_. _Miles_. -Berriew, on the confluence of the Rhiw and Severn 5 -Llandysylio, on the Vyrnwy 8 -Llandrinio 9 -Llanvyllin, the Abel, Cain, and Vyrnwy 12 - -WREXHAM, -(_Denbighshire_.) - -Chester 12 -Llangollen 11½ -Oswestry 6 -Ruthin 16 - -Wrexham is a large and well-built town, whose population, including the -parish, was returned in 1841 at 12,981 inhabitants. From its extent and -importance, it has sometimes been denominated the metropolis of North -Wales. The town is pleasantly situated at the junction of the -Shrewsbury. Welshpool, Oswestry, and Chester roads, and in the centre of -the mining and manufacturing districts of the eastern part of -Denbighshire. Races are annually held early in October, on a course a -little north-west of the town, on the right of the road to Mold. Wrexham -is one of the principal stations on the Shrewsbury and Chester Railway. - -No particular branch of trade or manufacture is carried on in the town; -but the parish, which is about twelve miles in length, abounds with -mineral wealth, and extensive works of various kinds are carried on in -different parts of it. The principal inns are the Wynnstay Arms and the -Lion. Markets are held on Thursday and Saturday, the former being the -chief market day. There are several fairs held annually for cattle; but -the principal one is that which commences on the 23d of March, and -continues for fourteen days. For the accommodation of the various -dealers attending it, five extensive areas are fitted up with shops and -booths. A new and handsome market-hall has also been lately built, and -cheese fairs established. Wrexham is contributory with Denbigh, Holt, -and Ruthin, in the return of a parliamentary representative. - -The church, dedicated to St. Giles, is a spacious and noble Gothic -structure, deservedly regarded as one of the finest ecclesiastical -edifices in the Principality. It was erected in the year 1472, the tower -not being finished till 1506, as appears by a date on the building. The -exterior is elaborately embellished with sculpture; and the tower, which -is very lofty and highly enriched, consists of several successive stages, -panelled throughout, and decorated with numerous statues of saints in -canopied niches: from its elevation, and the light open-work turrets by -which it is crowned at the angles, it forms a conspicuous and interesting -object in the surrounding landscape. It has a remarkably fine carved -roof: and a noble altar-piece, designed by Mr. Jones of Chester, and -worked in stone by Mr. Blayney of that city; the east window being filled -with beautifully stained glass by Mr. Evans, of Shrewsbury. - -In the chancel is an altar-tomb, on which is a recumbent effigy of Dr. -Bellot, successively Bishop of Bangor and Chester, who died in 1596, and -was there interred. Nearly opposite to this tomb is an interesting -monument, by Roubilliac, to the memory of Mrs. Mary Myddelton, of Chirk -Castle, representing a female rising from the tomb in all the freshness -of youth and beauty, at the sound of the last trumpet which is to summon -the dead to judgment. At the corner of the aisle is also a monument by -Roubilliac, to the Rev. Thomas Myddelton and Arabella his wife; and there -are monuments to Wm. Lloyd, Esq. and his son, the Fitzhughs, the -Pulestons, the Longuevilles, Sir Foster and Lady Cunliffe, and other -families in the neighbourhood.. - -About a mile from Wrexham, on the right of the road leading to Chester, -is Acton Park, the residence of Sir R. H. Cunliffe, Bart., a spacious -mansion, delightfully situated in extensive grounds, richly diversified -with picturesque and romantic scenery, and commanding pleasing views of -the town and adjacent country. Acton was the birth-place of the -notorious Judge Jeffreys, who obtained so bad an eminence in the reign of -James the Second. - - - - -INDEX. - - PAGE. -Aber 1 -Aberdaron 5 -Aberdovey 6 -Aberffraw 7 -Abergele 8 -Aberystwyth 13 -Acton Park 206 -Amlwch 22 -Bala 24 -Bangor (Caernarvonshire) 28 -Bangor Is-y-coed 52 -Bardsey Island 6 -Barmouth 53 -Baron Hill 58 -Basingwerk Abbey 133 -Beaumaris 55 -Beaumaris Bay 60 -Beddgelert 63 -Bettws-y-Coed 69 -Buckley Mountain 122 -Cader Idris 70 -Caergwrle 73 -Caernarvon 73 -Caerwys 80 -Capel Curig 82 -Castell Dinas Brân 151 -Cerig-y-Druidion 88 -Cerniogau Mawr 89 -Ceunant Mawr 139 -Chester 89 - (See also Introduction.) -Chirk 89 -Clynog 92 -Conway 93 -Corwen 99 -Cricaeth 100 -Devil’s Bridge 18 -Dee River 27 -Denbigh 101 -Diganwy 97 -Dinas Mowddwy 105 -Dinorwic 105 -Diserth 105 -Dolbadarn 138 -Dolgelley 106 -Dolwyddelan Castle 83 -Downing 134 -Ewloe Castle 122 -Ffestiniog 110 -Flint 112 -Golden Grove 136 -Gorphwysfa 140 -Gresford 115 -Gwydir 162 -Gwytherin 163 -Gyrn 136 -Hanmer 116 -Harlech 117 -Havod 18 -Hawarden 119 -Holt 124 -Holyhead 124 -Holywell 128 -Hope 73 -Kymmer Abbey 108 -Lake Ogwen 84 -Llanasa 135 -Llanberis 137 -Llanddulas 11 -Llandegai 141 -Llandudno 142 -Llanedwen 143 -Llanelian 143 -Llanerch-y-medd 144 -Llanervul 144 -Llanfair (Anglesea) 146 -Llanfair (Montgomerysh.) 147 -Llanfyllyn 148 -Llangefni 148 -Llangollen 149 -Llangynog 155 -Llanhaiarn 155 -Llanidan 156 -Llanidloes 157 -Llanrhaiadr 159 -Llanrhaiadr-yn-Mochnant 160 -Llanrwst 160 -Llanvaes Abbey 60 -Llyn Idwal 85 -Machynlleth 164 -Maen-twrog 166 -Maes Garmon 170 -Mallwyd 168 -Menai Bridge 33 -Menai Railway Bridge 38 -Moel Fammau 171 -Moel Siabod 83 -Mold 168 -Mona Inn 172 -Montgomery 172 -Mostyn Hall 135 -Nannau Park 109 -Nant Ffrancon 84 -Nevyn 173 -Newborough 174 -Newmarket 174 -Newtown 176 -Northop 177 -Offa’s Dyke 170 -Ogwen Bank 44 -Oswestry 177 -Overton 178 -Penmaen Mawr 178 -Penmaen Priory 60 -Penmorfa 179 -Penmynydd 180 -Penrhyn Castle 40 -Pentraeth 59 -Pentre Voelas 180 -Pillar of Eliseg 152 -Pistyll Rhaiadr 160 -Plâs Newydd 150 -Plâs Newydd (Anglesea) 180 -Plinlimmon 158 -Pont Aberglaslyn 68 -Pont Cysylltau 152 -Pont-y-Glyn 181 -Powys Castle 205 -Puffin Island 61 -Pwllheli 182 -Rhaiadr-y-Wennol 84 -Rhuddlan 183 -Rhyl 185 -Ruabon 186 -Ruthin 188 -Slate Quarries, near Bangor 42 -Snowdon 193 -St. Asaph 191 -St. George 12 -Talacre 136 -Tal-y-llyn 199 -Tan-y-Bwlch 166 -The Tower (Mold) 171 -Towyn 200 -Traws-fynydd 202 -Trefriw 163 -Tremadoc 202 -Vale Crucis Abbey 151 -Vale of Clwyd 190 -Welshpool 204 -Wrexham 205 -Wynnstay 187 - -MAP. - - -[The book contains a large map which unfortunately is too big to scan -entire. It’s provided here as four parts.—DP.] - - North-West Wales (top) - - [Picture: North-West Wales, top] - - North-East Wales (top) - - [Picture: North-East Wales, top] - - North-West Wales (bottom) - - [Picture: North-West Wales, bottom] - - North-East Wales (bottom) - - [Picture: North-East Wales, bottom] - - - - -FOOTNOTES. - - -{0} The largest stone arch before known is Vielle Briode, which crosses -the river Allien, in France, whose span is 183 feet, being 17 feet less -than the Chester bridge. It was erected in 1454, by Grenier. - -{8} From _Aber_, rivulet—_Gele_, woody, secluded; a name very -characteristic of the place, as the rivulet running through it issues out -of deep wood ravines above the town. - -{10} The silurian rocks to the west of Abergele, have recently been -brought under the notice of the Geological Society by Mr. J. E. Bowmall. -That gentleman, in an able paper presented to the society, states that -his attention was first directed to these strata by the Rev. J. Price, of -Llysfaen. They occur immediately south of the narrow belt of -carboniferous limestone which skirts the coast from the Great Ormeshead -to the point of Ayr, and the estuary of the Dee. The section described -by Mr. Bowmall presents the following series of beds in descending order, -many of the fossils discovered in them being identified with those found -in the Ludlow formation of Shropshire:—1. Carboniferous limestone. 2. -Light coloured loam enclosing rounded pebbles of greenish, slightly -micaceous sandstone with shells. 3. Bed of the same sandstone. 4. Red -marl of considerable thickness, with imbedded angular and waterworn -pebbles, and numerous fossils. 5. Arenaceous conglomerate, consisting -partly of the pebbles of the underlying limestone. 6. Thin beds of -compact reddish limestone, sometimes very arenaceous, and containing a -few fossils. 7. Blue clay. 8. Blue clay slate, occasionally enclosing -layers of organic remains, and forming the geological base of the -country. - -{12} There is a tradition current in this neighbourhood, that Oliver -Cromwell was concealed at Kinmel, when Carter (his general) lived there; -and there is a spur of extraordinary dimensions still hung in the above -church, which is called Oliver Cromwell’s spur. - -{73} Called by the Welsh, ESTYN. - -{76} So called from the circumstance of Eleanor (daughter of Ferdinand -the Third) the consort of Edward, who was brought, through the inclemency -of a hard winter, to bear a prince for the Welsh,—having first entered -the castle through this gate. At this time the castle was entirely -insulated, on one side by artificial means: the moat was destroyed by -being filled up two or three centuries ago, which somewhat detracts from -our estimate of its former impregnable character. - -‘Edward had annexed Wales to the kingdom of England, but the Welsh were -displeased with this usurpation, and determined to yield no obedience to -any prince but of their own nation and language. Edward thought of an -expedient for cozening them. He ordered Eleanor, in the depth of winter, -out of England to Caernarvon Castle, there to lie in. Edward then -summoned all the barons and chief persons throughout Wales to meet him at -Rhuddlan, to consult about the welfare of their country. He told the -Welsh nobility that they had often wished for a prince of their own -country, who might rule over them. They promised to allow of such an -appointment, and to obey such a personage. Edward then mentioned _his -own son Edward_, recently born, maintaining the terms of the engagement -to have been strictly complied with, for his son was born in Wales, could -speak no English, and his character irreproachable. Though born in 1284, -it was not before he had reached his 16th year that Prince Edward -received the reluctant fealty of his deluded subjects. The eldest sons -of the English monarchs have subsequently been styled Prince of Wales, -and, independently of birth, been created so by letters -patent.’—_Nicholson_. - -{87} Dunawt was the son of Nefydd Hardd, one of the fifteen tribes of -North Wales: to him Prince Owen Gwynedd had intrusted his son to be -fostered, according to the usual custom. - -{102a} The common Welsh name is Eglwys-wen, and the translation is a -vulgarism. - -{102b} Richard Myddelton was the father of Sir Hugh Myddelton, who -brought the new river to London. - -{130} Sych, i.e. _dry_, and nant, a _hollow_, a _brook_. - -{140} The term _Cromlech_, used to signify a Druidical altar, cannot be -property attached to this stone: it being quite improbable that it ever -was used to such purpose; but the continued action of the elements has -placed it as it is. - -{146} There being several parishes of this name in the Principality, -this is distinguished by the adjunction of Mathavarneithav. - - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXCURSIONS IN NORTH WALES*** - - -******* This file should be named 64164-0.txt or 64164-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/4/1/6/64164 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: Excursions in North Wales - A Complete Guide to the Tourist through that Romantic Country - - -Author: John Hicklin - - - -Release Date: December 29, 2020 [eBook #64164] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXCURSIONS IN NORTH WALES*** -</pre> -<p>Transcribed from the 1847 Whittaker and Co. edition by David -Price.</p> -<p style="text-align: center"> -<a href="images/p0b.jpg"> -<img alt= -"Conway Bridge & Castle" -title= -"Conway Bridge & Castle" - src="images/p0s.jpg" /> -</a></p> -<h1>EXCURSIONS<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">IN</span><br /> -NORTH WALES:</h1> -<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">A -COMPLETE</span><br /> -GUIDE TO THE TOURIST<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">THROUGH</span><br /> -THAT ROMANTIC COUNTRY;</p> -<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">CONTAINING -DESCRIPTIONS</span><br /> -<span class="GutSmall">OF ITS</span><br /> -PICTURESQUE BEAUTIES, HISTORICAL ANTIQUITIES<br /> -AND MODERN WONDERS.</p> - -<div class="gapspace"> </div> - -<div class="gapshortline"> </div> -<p style="text-align: center">EDITED BY JOHN HICKLIN,<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">OF THE CHESTER COURANT.</span></p> - -<div class="gapshortline"> </div> -<p style="text-align: center">LONDON:<br /> -<span class="GutSmall">WHITTAKER AND CO.; HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND -CO.;</span><br /> -<span class="GutSmall">LONGMAN AND CO.; AND SIMPKIN AND -CO.</span><br /> -<span class="GutSmall">R. GROOMBRIDGE & SONS.</span><br /> -<span class="GutSmall">W. CURRY AND CO., DUBLIN.</span><br /> -<span class="GutSmall">GEORGE PRICHARD (LATE SEACOME & -PRICHARD), CHESTER.</span></p> - -<div class="gapshortline"> </div> -<p style="text-align: center">1847.</p> -<h2><a name="pageiii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -iii</span>INTRODUCTION.</h2> -<p>The ancient City of Chester is unquestionably the most -attractive and convenient starting-place, from which should -commence the journey of the tourist, who is desirous of exploring -the beautiful and romantic country of North Wales, with its -lovely valleys, its majestic mountains, its placid lakes, its -rushing torrents, its rural retreats, and its picturesque -castles. Before leaving Chester, however, it will amply -repay the intelligent traveller to devote some time to the -examination of the many objects of interest, with which the -“old city” abounds. A ramble round the Walls, -embracing a circuit of about two miles, will not only disclose to -the stranger a succession of views, illustrative of the quaint -architecture and the singular formation of the city, but will -reveal a series of landscapes of the most varied and charming -description; while the ancient fortifications themselves, with -their four gates and rugged towers, serve to exemplify the -features of that troubled age, when they were erected for the -protection of our ancestors against hostile invasions. -Another striking peculiarity of Chester is the construction of -the covered promenades, or Rows, in which the principal -mercantile establishments are situated: unique and very curious -are these old arcades, which are as interesting to the -antiquarian, as they are convenient for a quiet lounge to ladies -and others engaged in “shopping.” The singular -old houses, too, with their elaborately carved gables, of which -Watergate-street, Bridge-street, and Northgate-street, furnish -some remarkable specimens, will naturally attract -attention. Among public edifices, the venerable Cathedral, -though not possessing much claim to external elegance, is replete -with interest, from the style of its architecture, and the many -historical associations which a visit within its sacred precincts -awakens. The cloisters and the chapter-house are -interesting memorials of olden time; while the beautiful and -effective restoration of the choir, which has lately been -completed <a name="pageiv"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -iv</span>under the skilful superintendence of Mr. Hussey, of -Birmingham, commands the admiration of all who take pleasure in -ecclesiological improvements. The fittings of the interior -have been entirely renovated; the Bishop’s throne, a -splendid and characteristic erection, has been restored; a new -stone pulpit (the gift of Sir E. S. Walker, of Chester) has been -introduced, to harmonise with the style of the building; an altar -screen, to divide the Lady Chapel from the choir, has been -presented by the Rev. P. W. Hamilton, of Hoole; the eastern -windows have been filled with stained glass, of admirable design -and execution, by Mr. Wailes, of Newcastle; and a powerful organ, -which cost £1000, has been built by Messrs. Gray and -Davison, of London. The expenses of the restoration were -defrayed by public subscription; and too much praise cannot be -given to the Dean (Dr. F. Anson) for the zeal and liberality with -which he has promoted these gratifying improvements, as well as -for the efficient and orderly manner in which the choral services -of the Cathedral are conducted. The fine old Church of St. -John the Baptist, which in the tenth century was the Cathedral of -the diocese, with the adjacent ruins of the Priory, should not be -left unvisited; and St. Mary’s Church also presents, in its -roof and monuments, some objects of interest worth -examining. Of the ancient Castle, very little, except -Julius Cæsar’s tower, remains; but a magnificent -modern structure, for military and county purposes, has been -erected on the site of the old edifice, after designs by the late -Mr. Harrison, of Chester. The shire-hall is an elegant -fabric of light-coloured stone, the principal entrance to which -is through a portico of twelve columns in double rows, 22 feet -high, and 3 feet 1½ inch in diameter, each formed of a -single stone. The court-room is a spacious semi-circular -hall, lighted from above. The county prison is behind, on a -lower level, whence prisoners are brought into the dock by a -flight of steps. The extremities of the county-hall are -flanked by two uniform elegant buildings, facing each other, -appropriated as barracks for the officers and soldiers of the -garrison. In the higher ward is an armoury, where from -thirty to forty thousand stand of arms, and other munitions of -war, are constantly kept, in the same beautifully arranged manner -as at the Tower of London. The spacious open area in front -of the Castle is enclosed by a semi-circular wall, surmounted -with iron railings; in the centre is the grand entrance, of Doric -architecture, <a name="pagev"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -v</span>greatly admired for its chaste construction and elegant -execution. The front view is classical and imposing.</p> -<p>A noble Bridge crosses the Dee at the south-east angle of the -Roodee, the picturesque Race-course of Chester; it is approached -by a new road from the centre of Bridge-street, which passes by -the castle esplanade, proceeds across the city walls, and then by -an immense embankment thrown over a deep valley. The bridge -consists of one main stone arch, with a small dry arch or towing -path on each side, by which the land communication is preserved -on both sides of the river. The distinguishing feature of -this edifice is the unparalleled width of the chord or span of -the main arch, which is of greater extent than that of any other -arch of masonry known to have been constructed. Of its -dimensions the following is an accurate delineation:—The -span of the arch is <i>two hundred feet</i>; <a -name="citation0"></a><a href="#footnote0" -class="citation">[0]</a> the height of the arch from the -springing line, 40 feet; the dimensions of the main abutments, 48 -feet wide by 40, with a dry arch as a towing path at each side, -20 feet wide, flanked with immense wing walls, to support the -embankment. The whole length of the road-way, 340 -feet. Width of the bridge from outside the parapet walls, -35 feet 6 inches, divided thus: carriage-road, 24 feet; the two -causeways, 9 feet; thickness of the parapet walls, 2 feet 6 -inches. Altitude from the top of the parapet wall to the -river at low water mark, 66 feet 6 inches. The -architectural plan of this bridge was furnished by the late Mr. -Thomas Harrison; Mr. James Trubshaw, of Newcastle, Staffordshire, -was the builder; Mr. Jesse Hartley, of Liverpool, the -surveyor. The bridge was formally opened in October, 1832, -by her Royal Highness the Princess (now Queen) Victoria, on -occasion of her visit and that of her royal parent, the Duchess -of Kent, to Eaton Hall. As a compliment to her noble host, -the bridge was named Grosvenor Bridge by the young Princess.</p> -<p>Our limited space prevents us from entering into particular -descriptions of other buildings and antiquities, which might well -claim our attention; as the remarkable Crypt and Roman Bath in -Bridge-street, the Museum at the Water Tower, the <a -name="pagevi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. vi</span>Blue Goat -Hospital, the Training College, the Linen Hall, the Episcopal -Palace, the Exchange, &c.; but we must not omit to remind the -stranger, that when at Chester, he is only three miles distant -from that magnificent modern mansion, Eaton Hall, the seat of the -Marquis of Westminster. The approach to the beautiful and -extensive park in which this princely abode is situated, is by an -elegant Lodge on the Grosvenor Road, about a quarter of a mile -from Chester Castle; or the excursion may be made by a boat on -the lucid bosom of the river Dee, which runs through verdant -meads and lovely scenery close by the pleasure-grounds of the -Hall. Visitors must be careful to provide themselves with -tickets, which may be obtained of the publisher of this little -work in Bridge-street Row, or they will not be admitted to view -the interior of the mansion. The elaborate adornments, the -gorgeous fittings, and the truly magnificent architecture of -Eaton Hall, with its superb furniture, its beautiful pictures, -and exquisite sculpture, never fail to excite the most lively -admiration; and to pass it without a call, would be held by the -residents of this neighbourhood to be a sort of topographical -heresy, of which tourists should not be guilty.</p> -<p>Having satisfied their taste and curiosity by exploring the -attractions and characteristics of Chester and the vicinity, we -will suppose that our travellers are now ready to proceed into -Wales; and for the purpose of directing and enlivening their -journey, we present them, in this little Manual, with a faithful -Guide and an amusing Companion by the way. The admirer of -Nature, in her wildest or her loveliest guise; the man of -antiquarian research, the student of history, the valetudinarian -in quest of health, or the ardent votary of “the rod and -line,” anxiously seeking for favourable spots where the -angler may best indulge his piscatorial fancies; may find in the -following pages some information adapted to his taste and -pursuits.</p> -<p>Among the other advantages which Chester possesses as a -starting-place for visiting the Principality, may be mentioned -its position as a grand central terminus, where the London and -North Western, the Chester and Holyhead, the Shrewsbury and -Chester, the Chester and Birkenhead, and the Lancashire and -Cheshire Junction Railways, meet. A splendid station, -commensurate with the requirements of the traffic from this -combination of railway interests, will forthwith be built at -Chester, at an estimated cost of £80,000. The -Shrewsbury <a name="pagevii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -vii</span>and Chester line being now open as far as Ruabon, -pleasant excursions can easily be made to the vale of Gresford, -Wrexham, Wynnstay Park, and Llangollen: and as in August of this -year (1847) the Chester and Holyhead Railway will be opened as -for as Conway, visits to that delightful locality, including the -intermediate stations for Flint, Mostyn, St. Asaph, Rhyl, and -Abergele, may then be enjoyed in a day. Facilities like -these will no doubt tend greatly to increase the number of -tourists to North Wales; where the principal hotels are admirably -conducted, and carriages, cars, and horses, with civil drivers -well acquainted with the country, may be engaged on satisfactory -terms.</p> -<p>It may not be without its use to indicate a few excursions, -which would include some of the most interesting and romantic -parts of the Principality. From Chester, a charming trip -may be taken to Hawarden, Holywell, St. Asaph, Abergele, Conway, -Aber, Bangor, Menai Bridge, Beaumaris; returning by Penrhyn -Castle, the Nant Ffrancon Slate Quarries, Capel Curig, -Rhaiadr-y-Wennol, Bettws-y-Coed, Pentrevoelas, Corwen, -Llangollen, Wynnstay Park, Wrexham, Eaton Hall, Chester; or Eaton -Hall may be taken on leaving Chester, Wrexham next, and so on to -Beaumaris, returning by Conway and Holywell. This route may -be comfortably accomplished in four days; or if pressed for time, -in three, as the railway would be available from Ruabon (Wynnstay -Park) to Chester.</p> -<p>Another excursion, which would occupy four days, might be made -by taking the railway from Chester to Birkenhead, embarking at -Liverpool in the steam-packet which passes Beaumaris and the -Menai bridge for Caernarvon, thence to Beddgelert, Pont -Aberglaslyn, and return, ascend Snowdon, descend to Dolbadarn, -Pass of Llanberis, Capel Curig, Rhaiadr-y-Wennol, and return by -Nant Ffrancon slate quarries, Penrhyn Castle and Bangor, thence -by steamer to Liverpool.</p> -<p>An agreeable and more extended route may also be taken from -Caernarvon to Clynog, Pwllheli, Criccieth, Tremadoc, Port Madoc, -Tan-y-bwlch, Maentwrog, Ffestiniog, Beddgelert, Nant Gwynan, -Capel Curig, Rhaiadr-y-Wennol, Bettws-y-coed, Llanrwst, Conway, -Penmaen Mawr, Aber, and Bangor for the packet to Liverpool.</p> -<p>Another journey may be accomplished in nine days:—from -Chester to Eaton hall, Wrexham, Wynnstay, Chirk Castle, -Llangollen, Valle Crucis Abbey, Corwen, Vale of Edeirnion, <a -name="pageviii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. viii</span>Bala, -Dolgelley, Cader Idris, Barmouth, Harlech, Maentwrog, -Tan-y-Bwlch, Ffestiniog, Port Madoc, Tremadoc, Pont Aberglaslyn, -Beddgelert, Capel Curig, Dolbadarn, Victoria Hotel, Snowdon, -Caernarvon, Menai bridge, Bangor, Aber, Conway, Abergele, St. -Asaph, Denbigh, Ruthin, Mold, Chester.</p> -<p>Those whose time is less limited can readily select tours -which will include a wider range of country, according to their -taste and convenience; we have, therefore, adopted, in our -literary panorama, an alphabetical arrangement, which, with the -aid of the index, will direct the reader to the description of -any place he may be desirous of visiting; and, as the distances -are also marked, he may readily calculate the extent of the route -he contemplates. The work has been compiled from authentic -sources, and has been carefully revised, throughout, by the -present editor, with the view of presenting to the public an -accurate and entertaining Guide-book through North Wales.</p> -<h2>GLOSSARY.</h2> -<p>The English traveller, in passing through North Wales, will -find the following Welsh terms frequently occur in the names of -places; to which are subjoined their significations in -English.</p> -<p><i>Ab</i>, or <i>Ap</i>, a prefix to proper names, signifying -the son of</p> -<p><i>Aber</i>, the fall of one water into another, a -confluence.</p> -<p><i>Am</i>, about, around.</p> -<p><i>Ar</i>, upon, bordering upon.</p> -<p><i>Avon</i>, or <i>Afon</i>, a river.</p> -<p><i>Bach</i>, little, small.</p> -<p><i>Ban</i>, high, lofty, tall.</p> -<p><i>Bedd</i>, a grave or sepulchre.</p> -<p><i>Bettws</i>, a station between hill and vale.</p> -<p><i>Blaen</i>, a point or end.</p> -<p><i>Bôd</i>, a residence.</p> -<p><i>Braich</i>, a branch, an arm.</p> -<p><i>Bron</i>, the breast, the slope of a hill.</p> -<p><i>Bryn</i>, a hill, a mount.</p> -<p><i>Bwlch</i>, a gap, defile, or pass.</p> -<p><i>Bychan</i>, little, small.</p> -<p><i>Cader</i>, a hill-fortress, a chair.</p> -<p><i>Cae</i>, an inclosure, a hedge.</p> -<p><i>Cantref</i>, a hundred of a shire, a district.</p> -<p><i>Caer</i>, a city, a fort, a defensive wall.</p> -<p><i>Capel</i>, a chapel.</p> -<p><i>Carn</i>, a heap.</p> -<p><i>Carnedd</i>, a heap of stones.</p> -<p><i>Careg</i>, a stone.</p> -<p><a name="pageix"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -ix</span><i>Castell</i>, a castle, fortress.</p> -<p><i>Cefn</i>, ridge, the upper side, the back.</p> -<p><i>Cell</i>, a cell; also a grove.</p> -<p><i>Cil</i>, (pronounced keel) a retreat, a recess.</p> -<p><i>Clawdd</i>, a hedge, a dyke.</p> -<p><i>Clogwyn</i>, a precipice.</p> -<p><i>Côch</i>, red.</p> -<p><i>Coed</i>, a wood.</p> -<p><i>Cors</i>, a bog or fen.</p> -<p><i>Craig</i>, a rock or crag.</p> -<p><i>Croes</i>, a cross.</p> -<p><i>Cwm</i>, a valley, vale, or glen.</p> -<p><i>Dinas</i>, a city, or fort, a fortified place.</p> -<p><i>Dôl</i>, a meadow or dale, in the bend of the -river.</p> -<p><i>Drws</i>, a door-way, a pass.</p> -<p><i>Dû</i>, black.</p> -<p><i>Dwfr</i>, or <i>Dwr</i>, water.</p> -<p><i>Dyffryn</i>, a valley.</p> -<p><i>Eglwys</i>, a church.</p> -<p><i>Ffordd</i>, a way, a road, a passage.</p> -<p><i>Ffynnon</i>, a well, a spring.</p> -<p><i>Gallt</i>, (mutable into <i>Allt</i>) a cliff, an ascent, -the side of a hill.</p> -<p><i>Garth</i>, a hill bending round.</p> -<p><i>Glàn</i>, a brink or shore.</p> -<p><i>Glâs</i>, bluish, or grayish green.</p> -<p><i>Glyn</i>, a glen or valley through which a river runs.</p> -<p><i>Gwern</i>, a watery meadow.</p> -<p><i>Gwydd</i>, a wood.</p> -<p><i>Gwyn</i>, white, fair.</p> -<p><i>Gwys</i>, a summons.</p> -<p><i>Havod</i>, a summer residence.</p> -<p><i>Is</i>, lower, inferior, nether.</p> -<p><i>Llan</i>, church, a smooth area, an inclosure.</p> -<p><i>Llwyn</i>, a grove.</p> -<p><i>Llyn</i>, a lake, a pool.</p> -<p><i>Maen</i>, a stone.</p> -<p><i>Maes</i>, a plain, an open field.</p> -<p><i>Mawr</i>, great, large.</p> -<p><i>Melin</i>, a mill.</p> -<p><i>Moel</i>, a smooth conical hill.</p> -<p><i>Mynydd</i>, a mountain.</p> -<p><i>Nant</i>, a ravine, a brook.</p> -<p><i>Newydd</i>, new, fresh.</p> -<p><i>Pant</i>, a hollow, a valley.</p> -<p><i>Pen</i>, a head, a summit; also chief, or end.</p> -<p><i>Pentref</i>, a village, a hamlet.</p> -<p><i>Pistyll</i>, a spout, a cataract.</p> -<p><i>Plâs</i>, a hall or palace.</p> -<p><i>Plwyf</i>, a parish.</p> -<p><i>Pont</i>, a bridge.</p> -<p><i>Porth</i>, a ferry, a port, a gateway.</p> -<p><i>Pwll</i>, a pit, a pool.</p> -<p><i>Rhaiadr</i>, a cataract.</p> -<p><i>Rhiw</i>, an ascent.</p> -<p><i>Rhôs</i>, a moist plain or meadow.</p> -<p><i>Rhŷd</i>, a ford.</p> -<p><i>Sarn</i>, a causeway, a pavement.</p> -<p><i>Swydd</i>, a shire; also an office.</p> -<p><i>Tàl</i>, the front or head; also tall.</p> -<p><i>Tàn</i>, under.</p> -<p><i>Traeth</i>, a sand or shore.</p> -<p><i>Tre</i>, or <i>Tref</i>, a home, a town.</p> -<p><i>Tri</i>, three.</p> -<p><i>Troed</i>, a foot, the skirt of a hill.</p> -<p><i>Twr</i>, a tower.</p> -<p><i>Tŷ</i>, a house.</p> -<p><i>Waun</i> (from <i>Gwaun</i>), a meadow, downs.</p> -<p><i>Y</i>, the, of.</p> -<p><i>Yn</i>, in, at, into.</p> -<p><i>Ynys</i>, an island.</p> -<p><i>Ystrad</i>, a vale, a dale.</p> -<p><i>Yspytty</i>, a hospital, an almshouse.</p> -<h2><a name="pagex"></a><span class="pagenum">p. x</span>NORTH -WALES DISTANCE TABLE</h2> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: center">Distance<br /> -from<br /> -Chester.</p> -</td> -<td colspan='27'></td> -<td><p style="text-align: center">Distance<br /> -from<br /> -London.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">46</p> -</td> -<td></td> -<td colspan='26'><p>Aberconway or Conway, <i>f.</i> (market -day)</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">230</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">34</p> -</td> -<td><p>Abergele</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -<td colspan='25'><p>Abergele, <i>s.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">225</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">39</p> -</td> -<td><p>Bala</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">32</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">45</p> -</td> -<td colspan='24'><p>Bala, <i>s.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">195</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">61</p> -</td> -<td><p>Bangor</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">27</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">46</p> -</td> -<td colspan='23'><p>Bangor, <i>f.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">242</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">68</p> -</td> -<td><p>Beaumaris</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">34</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">53</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -<td colspan='22'><p>Beaumaris, <i>tu.</i> and <i>f.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">249</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">70</p> -</td> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">24</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">36</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">41</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">13</p> -</td> -<td colspan='21'><p>Caernarvon, <i>s.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">244</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">31</p> -</td> -<td><p>Corwen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">35</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">32</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">41</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">49</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">50</p> -</td> -<td colspan='20'><p>Corwen, <i>w.</i> and <i>f.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">194</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">25</p> -</td> -<td><p>Denbigh</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">23</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">26</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">37</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">44</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">46</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -<td colspan='19'><p>Denbigh, <i>w.</i> and <i>s.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">214</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">57</p> -</td> -<td><p>Dolgelley</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">50</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">58</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">47</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">51</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">38</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">30</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">44</p> -</td> -<td colspan='18'><p>Dolgelley, <i>tu.</i> and <i>s.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">213</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -<td><p>Flint</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">34</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">23</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">34</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">49</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">56</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">58</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">26</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">17</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">52</p> -</td> -<td colspan='17'><p>Flint</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">203</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">69</p> -</td> -<td><p>Haerlech</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">45</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">56</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">34</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">36</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">40</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">27</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">47</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">58</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">19</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">64</p> -</td> -<td colspan='16'><p>Haerlech, <i>s.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">232</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -<td><p>Hawarden</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">40</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">28</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">33</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">55</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">62</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">64</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">25</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">51</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">63</p> -</td> -<td colspan='15'><p>Hawarden, <i>s.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">196</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">86</p> -</td> -<td><p>Holyhead</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">40</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">52</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">71</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">25</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">28</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">30</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">66</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">62</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">68</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">74</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">57</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">80</p> -</td> -<td colspan='14'><p>Holyhead, <i>s.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">267</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -<td><p>Holywell</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">29</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">37</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">45</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">52</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">54</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">28</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">62</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">70</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">70</p> -</td> -<td colspan='13'><p>Holywell, <i>f.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">207</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">23</p> -</td> -<td><p>Llangollen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">45</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">36</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">51</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">58</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">60</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">23</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">40</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">31</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">56</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">31</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">76</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">34</p> -</td> -<td colspan='12'><p>Llangollen, <i>s.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">184</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">69</p> -</td> -<td><p>Llanidloes</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">82</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">90</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">50</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">81</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">85</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">72</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">65</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">77</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">34</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">77</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">53</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">74</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">106</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">80</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">55</p> -</td> -<td colspan='11'><p>Llanidloes, <i>s.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">188</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">51</p> -</td> -<td><p>Llanrwst</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">23</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">30</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">32</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">23</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">38</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">37</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">33</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">40</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">48</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">32</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">33</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">70</p> -</td> -<td colspan='10'><p>Llanrwst, <i>tu.</i> and <i>s.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">218</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">70</p> -</td> -<td><p>Machynlleth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">64</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">72</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">32</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">62</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">69</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">53</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">44</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">58</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">66</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">36</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">66</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">87</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">69</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">54</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">53</p> -</td> -<td colspan='9'><p>Machynlleth, <i>w.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">206</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -<td><p>Mold</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">39</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">30</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">27</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">53</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">60</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">62</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">19</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">45</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">60</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">78</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">24</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">77</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">36</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">59</p> -</td> -<td colspan='8'><p>Mold, (by Wrexham), <i>w.</i> & -<i>s.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">189</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">49</p> -</td> -<td><p>Montgomery</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">79</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">72</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">43</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">87</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">93</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">84</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">45</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">58</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">44</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">58</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">63</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">55</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">112</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">61</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">35</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">23</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">66</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">37</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">51</p> -</td> -<td colspan='7'><p>Montgomery, <i>th.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">169</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">58</p> -</td> -<td><p>Newtown</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">76</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">77</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">44</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">87</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">93</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">85</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">51</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">63</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">41</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">63</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">60</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">62</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">112</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">66</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">41</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">64</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">28</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">56</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> -</td> -<td colspan='6'><p>Newtown, <i>tu.</i> & <i>s.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">175</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">21</p> -</td> -<td><p>Pwllheli</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">45</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">57</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">43</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">30</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">34</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">21</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">68</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">67</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">37</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">79</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">25</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">85</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">51</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">75</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">65</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">71</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">37</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">52</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">70</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">76</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">78</p> -</td> -<td colspan='5'><p>Pwllheli, <i>w.</i> & <i>s.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">243</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">21</p> -</td> -<td><p>Ruthin</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">31</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">45</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">52</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">54</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">36</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">48</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">70</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">69</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">28</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">49</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">50</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">55</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">59</p> -</td> -<td colspan='4'><p>Ruthin, <i>m.</i> & <i>s.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">206</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">28</p> -</td> -<td><p>St. Asaph</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">19</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">38</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">34</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">41</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">43</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">24</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">56</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">64</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">21</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">59</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">28</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">88</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">26</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">70</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">64</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">69</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">69</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -<td colspan='3'><p>St. Asaph, <i>f.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">218</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">41</p> -</td> -<td><p>Welshpool</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">67</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">63</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">35</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">79</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">86</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">76</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">34</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">49</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">36</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">44</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">55</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">48</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">104</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">59</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">27</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">28</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">57</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">42</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">42</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">85</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">41</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">55</p> -</td> -<td colspan='2'><p>Welshpool, <i>th.</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">171</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -<td><p>Wrexham</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">48</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">39</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">34</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">62</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">69</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">71</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">25</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">52</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">19</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">69</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">87</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">58</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">46</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">67</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">39</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">44</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">78</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">31</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">30</p> -</td> -<td><p>Wrexham</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">177</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<h2><a name="page1"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -1</span>PANORAMA.</h2> -<h3>ABER,<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: center"><i>Distance from</i></p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: center"><i>Miles</i>.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Port Penrhyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanvair Vechan</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">2</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Conway</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Penmaen Mawr</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llandegai</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">245</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p><span class="smcap">Aber</span>, or, as it is called by way of -distinction, Aber-gwyngregyn, the Stream of the White Shells, is -a small neat village, situated on the Holyhead and Chester road, -near the Lavan Sands, at the extremity of a luxuriant vale -watered by the river Gwyngregyn, which runs into the Irish sea; -it commands a fine view of the entrance into the Menai, with the -islands of Anglesea and Priestholme, and the vast expanse of -water which rolls beneath the ragged Ormesheads. The -pleasantness of its situation, and the salubrity of its air, -render this place exceedingly attractive during the summer -season, and the beach, at high water, is very convenient for sea -bathing.</p> -<p>The church is an ancient structure, with a square tower; the -living being in the gift of Sir R. W. Bulkeley.</p> -<p>The Bulkeley Arms is an excellent inn, where post-chaises and -cars may be had.</p> -<p>This is considered a very convenient station for such persons -as wish to examine Penmaen-mawr, and the adjacent country, either -as naturalists or artists. From this place also persons -frequently cross the Menai straits immediately into Anglesea, in -a direction towards Beaumaris. The distance is somewhat -more than six miles. When the tide is out, the Lavan Sands -are dry for four miles, in the same direction, over which the -passenger has to walk within a short distance of the opposite -shore, where the ferry-boat plies. In fogs, the passage -over <a name="page2"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 2</span>these -sands has been found very dangerous, and many have been lost in -making the hazardous enterprise at such times. As a very -salutary precaution, the bell of Aber church, which was presented -for the purpose by the late Lord Bulkeley, in 1817, is rung in -foggy weather, with a view to direct those persons whose business -compels them to make the experiment. It would be dangerous -for a stranger to undertake the journey without a guide, as the -sands frequently shift: however, since the erection of the Menai -bridge, this route is seldom taken.</p> -<p>The village is situated at the mouth of the deep glen, which -runs in a straight line a mile and a half between the mountains, -and is bounded on one side by a magnificent rock, called -Maes-y-Gaer. At the extremity of this glen, a mountain -presents a concave front, down the centre of which a vast -cataract precipitates itself in a double fall, upwards of sixty -feet in height, presenting in its rushing torrent over the -scattered fragments of rock a grand and picturesque -appearance.</p> -<p>At the entrance of the glen, close to the village, is an -extensive artificial mount, flat at the top, and near sixty feet -in diameter, widening towards the base. It was once the -site of castle belonging to the renowned prince, Llewelyn the -Great, foundations are yet to be seen round the summit; and in -digging, traces of buildings have been discovered. This -spot is famous as the scene of the reputed amour of William de -Breos, an English baron, with the wife of the Welsh hero, and of -the tragical occurrence which followed its detection. This -transaction, which has given rise to a popular legend, is well -told in Miss Costello’s “Pictorial Tour,” -published in 1845:—</p> -<p>Llywelyn had been induced by the artful promises of the smooth -traitor, king John, to accept the hand of his daughter, the -princess Joan; but his having thus allied himself did not prevent -the aggressions of his father-in-law, and John having cruelly -murdered twenty-eight hostages, sons of the highest Welsh -nobility, Llywelyn’s indignation overcame all other -considerations, and he attacked John in all his castles between -the Dee and Conway, and, for that time freed North Wales from the -English yoke.</p> -<p>There are many stories told of the princess Joan, or Joanna, -somewhat contradictory, but generally received: she was, of -course, not popular with the Welsh, and the court bard, in -singing the praise of the prince, even goes so far as to speak <a -name="page3"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 3</span>of a female -favourite of Llywelyn’s, instead of naming his wife: -perhaps he wrote his ode at the time when she was in disgrace, in -consequence of misconduct attributed to her. It is related -that Llywelyn, at the battle of Montgomery, took prisoner William -de Breos, one of the knights of the English court, and while he -remained his captive treated him well, and rather as a friend -than enemy. This kindness was repaid by De Breos with -treachery, for he ventured to form an attachment to the princess -Joan, perhaps to renew one already begun before her marriage with -the Welsh prince. He was liberated, and returned to his own -country; but scarcely was he gone than evil whispers were -breathed into the ear of Llywelyn, and vengeance entirely -possessed his mind: he, however, dissembled his feelings, and, -still feigning the same friendship, he invited De Breos to come -to his palace at Aber as a guest. The lover of the princess -Joan readily accepted the invitation, hoping once more to behold -his mistress; but he knew not the fate which hung over him, or he -would not have entered the portal of the man he had injured so -gaily as he did.</p> -<p>The next morning the princess Joan walked forth early, in a -musing mood: she was young, beautiful, she had been admired and -caressed in her father’s court, was there the theme of -minstrels and the lady of many a tournament—to what avail? -her hand without her heart had been bestowed on a brave but -uneducated prince, whom she could regard as little less than -savage, who had no ideas in common with her, to whom all the -refinements of the Norman court were unknown, and whose uncouth -people, and warlike habits, and rugged pomp, were all distasteful -to her. Perhaps she sighed as she thought of the days when -the handsome young De Breos broke a lance in her honour, and she -rejoiced, yet regretted, that the dangerous knight, the admired -and gallant William, was again beneath her husband’s -roof. In this state of mind she was met by the bard, an -artful retainer of Llywelyn, who hated all of English blood, and -whose lays were never awakened but in honour of his chief, but -who contrived to deceive her into a belief that he both pitied -and was attached to her. Observing her pensive air, and -guessing at its cause, he entered into conversation with her, and -having ‘beguiled her of her tears’ by his melody, he -at length ventured on these dangerous words.—</p> -<blockquote><p>“Diccyn, doccyn, gwraig Llywelyn,<br /> -Beth a roit ti am weled Gwilym?”</p> -<p><a name="page4"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -4</span>“Tell me, wife of Llywelyn, what would you give for -sight of your William?”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The princess, thrown off her guard, and confiding in -harper’s faith, imprudently exclaimed:—</p> -<blockquote><p>“Cymru, Lloegr, a Llywelyn,<br /> -Y rown i gyd am weled Gwilym!”</p> -<p>“Wales, and England, and Llywelyn—all would I give -to behold my William!”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The harper smiled bitterly, and, taking her arm, pointed -slowly with his finger in the direction of a neighbouring hill, -where, at a place called Wern Grogedig, grew a lofty tree, from -the branches of which a form was hanging, which she too well -recognised as that of the unfortunate William de Breos.</p> -<p>In a dismal cave beneath that spot was buried “the -young, the beautiful, the brave;” and the princess Joan -dared not shed a tear to his memory. Tradition points out -the place, which is called Cae Gwilym Dhu.</p> -<p>Notwithstanding this tragical episode, the princess and her -husband managed to live well together afterwards; whether she -convinced him of his error, and he repented his hasty vengeance, -or whether he thought it bettor policy to appear satisfied; at -all events, Joan frequently interfered between her husband and -father to prevent bloodshed, and sometimes succeeded. On -one occasion she did so with some effect, at a time when the -Welsh prince was encamped on a mountain above Ogwen lake, called -Carnedd Llywelyn from that circumstance; when he saw from the -heights his country in ruins, and Bangor in flames. Davydd, -the son of the princess, was Llywelyn’s favourite -son. Joan died in 1237, and was buried in a monastery of -Dominican friars at Llanvaes, near Beaumaris; Llywelyn erected -over her a splendid monument, which existed till Henry the Eighth -gave the monastery to one of his courtiers to pillage, and the -chapel became a barn. The coffin, which was all that -remained of the tomb, like that of Llywelyn himself, was thrown -into a little brook, and for two hundred and fifty years was used -as a watering trough for cattle. It is now preserved at -Baron Hill, near Beaumaris.</p> -<h3><a name="page5"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -5</span>ABERDARON,<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">36</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Nevyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pwllheli</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p> </p> -<p>This is a miserably poor village, at the very extremity of -Caernarvonshire, seated in a bay, beneath some high and sandy -cliffs. On the summit of a promontory are the ruins of a -small church, called Capel Vair, or Chapel of our Lady. The -chapel was placed here to give the seamen an opportunity of -invoking the tutelar saint for protection through the dangerous -sound. Not far distant, are also the ruins of another -chapel, called Anhaelog. At this spot, pilgrims in days of -yore embarked on their weary journey to pay their vows at the -graves of the saints of Bardsey.</p> -<p>The original church was a very old structure, in the style of -ancient English architecture, dedicated to St. Hyrwyn, a saint of -the island of Bardsey, and was formerly collegiate and had the -privilege of sanctuary; it contained a nave, south aisle, and -chancel, and was an elegant and highly finished building. A -new church has been recently built, on the site of the old one, -at the expense of the landed proprietors, aided by the church -building societies.</p> -<p>The mouth of the bay is guarded by two little islands, called -Ynys Gwylan, a security to the small craft of the inhabitants, -who are chiefly fishermen. It takes its name from the -rivulet Daron, which empties itself here.</p> -<p>This primitive village is noted as the birth place of Richard -Robert Jones, alias Dick Aberdaron, the celebrated Welsh -linguist. He was born in 1778, and died in deep distress at -St. Asaph in 1843. Jones was the son of a carpenter, and -always evinced a want of capacity, except in the acquiring of -languages by self culture. He began with the Latin tongue -when fifteen years of age. At nineteen he commenced with -Greek, and proceeded with Hebrew, Persiac, Arabic, French, -Italian, and other modern languages; and was ultimately -conversant with thirteen. Notwithstanding that he read all -the best authors, particularly in the Greek, he seemed to acquire -no other knowledge than as to the form and construction of -language. He was always in great indigence, and used to -parade the streets of Liverpool extremely dirty and ragged, with -some mutilated stores of literature under his arm, and wearing -his <a name="page6"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 6</span>beard -several inches long. He was at one time much noticed by the -late Mr. Roscoe, who secured him a weekly stipend, which however -was not maintained after the death of that distinguished -scholar.</p> -<h4>Bardsey Island,</h4> -<p>Generally called by the Welsh Yr Ynys Enlli (the Island of the -Current), and formerly known as the Island of the Saints, is -situated about three leagues to the west of Aberdaron; it is -somewhat more than two miles long and one broad, and contains -about 370 acres of land, of which near one-third is occupied by a -high mountain, affording sustenance only to a few sheep and -rabbits. The number of inhabitants does not exceed one -hundred, and their chief employment is fishing, there being great -abundance round the island. It is the property of Lord -Newborough.</p> -<p>On the south-east side, which is only accessible to the -mariner, there is a small well sheltered harbour, capable of -admitting vessels of 30 or 40 tons burden. The lighthouse -was erected in 1821; it is a handsome square tower, 74 feet high, -and surmounted by a lantern, 10 feet high.</p> -<p>This island was formerly celebrated for an abbey, a few -portions only of which are now remaining. Dubricius, -archbishop of Caerlleon, resigned his see to St. David, retired -here, and died <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 612; he was -interred upon the spot, but such was the veneration paid to his -memory in after ages, that his remains were removed in the year -1107 to Llandaff, and interred in that cathedral, of which -Dubricius had been the first bishop. After the slaughter of -the monks of Bangor Is-y-coed, nine hundred persecuted men who -had embraced Christianity, sought a sacred refuge in this island, -where numbers of the devout had already established a sanctuary, -and found repose from the troubles which then raged through the -Principality.</p> -<h3>ABERDOVEY,<br /> -(<i>Merionethshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Aberystwyth across the sands</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Barmouth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dolgellau</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">21</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Machynlleth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Towyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This is a small sea-port in the parish of Towyn, and about -four miles from that place. It is pleasantly situated on -the <a name="page7"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 7</span>northern -side of the mouth of the river Dovey, which here empties itself -into Cardigan bay, and is rapidly rising into estimation as a -bathing place. The beach is highly favourable for bathing, -being composed of hard firm sand, affording a perfectly safe -carriage-drive of about eight miles in length, along the margin -of the sea. The ride to Towyn along the sands, at low -water, is extremely delightful.</p> -<p>Several respectable houses and a commodious hotel (the Corbet -Arms) have of late years been erected for the accommodation of -visitors; and a chapel of ease has also been lately built by -subscription, which affords great convenience to the inhabitants, -who are four miles distant from the parish church. Service -is performed every Sunday morning in English, and in the -afternoon in the Welsh language.</p> -<p>The river Dovey is here one mile in width, and is crossed by a -ferry, which leads by a road along the sea shore to Borth, whence -is a communication with the Aberystwyth road. During the -spring tides the ferry can only be crossed at low water, on -account of the sands being flooded, and so rendered -impassable. The river is navigable nine miles up a most -picturesque country, and affords good trout fishing.</p> -<h3>ABERFFRAW,<br /> -(<i>Anglesea</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon Ferry</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mona Inn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Newborough</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Aberffraw, once a princely residence, is now reduced to a few -small houses; it is situated on the river Ffraw, near a small -bay. Not a vestige is to be seen of its former importance, -except the rude wall of an old barn, and Gardd y Llys, at the -west end of the town. It was a chief seat of the native -princes, and one of the three courts of justice for the -Principality. Here was always kept one of the three copies -of the ancient code of laws. This place is of great -antiquity, being one of three selected by Roderic the Great, -about 870, for the residence of his successors. In 962 it -was ravaged by the Irish. An extent was made of Aberffraw -in the 13th Edward III, from which may be learned some of the -ancient revenues of the Welsh princes. It appeared that -part arose from the rents of lands, from the profits of mills and -fisheries, and often from things taken in kind; but the last more -frequently commuted <a name="page8"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -8</span>for their value in money. There is a good inn -called the Prince Llywelyn.</p> -<p>Near to Aberffraw is Bodorgan, the seat of Owen Augustus -Fuller Meyrick, Esq., which is pleasantly situated, and overlooks -Caernarvon bay. The mansion, gardens, and conservatories -are worth a visit from the tourist</p> -<h3>ABERGELE,<br /> -(<i>Denbighshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Bangor</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">27</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">35</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Conway</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">225</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Rhuddlan</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Rhyl</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>St. Asaph</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Abergele, <a name="citation8"></a><a href="#footnote8" -class="citation">[8]</a> a market town, is pleasantly situated on -the great Chester and Holyhead road, on the edge of Rhuddlan -marsh, and about a mile from the sea shore. The church is -ancient, with a plain uninteresting tower, which the -white-washing hand of modern “improvement” has -deprived of all pretensions to the picturesque. The town -consists only of one long street; and in 1841, its population, -with the parish, was returned at 2661.</p> -<p>The coast is composed of firm hard sands, affording delightful -drives for many miles. Tradition says, the sea has in old -time overflowed a vast tract of inhabited country, once extending -at least three miles northward; as an evidence of which, a -dateless epitaph, in Welsh, on the church-yard wall, is cited, -which is thus translated: “In this church yard lies a man -who lived three miles to the north of it.” There is, -however, much stronger proof in the fact, that at low water may -be seen, at a distance from the clayey bank, a long tract of hard -loam, in which are imbedded numerous bodies of oak trees, -tolerably entire, but so soft as to cut with a knife as easily as -wax: the wood is collected by the poorer people, and, after being -brought to dry upon the beach, is used as fuel.</p> -<p>The salubrity of the air, the pleasantness of situation, and -the superiority of its shore for sea-bathing, have rendered this -town a favourite resort for genteel company, and it has long been -a fashionable watering place. The environs are picturesque, -<a name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 9</span>the scenery -beautiful, and many interesting excursions may be made from this -locality. The Bee Hotel, one of the best in the kingdom, is -a most comfortable house, and possesses superior accommodations; -and there are some excellent private lodgings to be had in the -town: for those who would prefer a more immediate contiguity to -the sea, there are cottages close to the beach, fit for -respectable families, and apartments may be had from farmers, who -are in the habit of accommodating visitors for the summer -season. Bateman Jones, Esq. has a handsome residence on the -road between the town and the beach. Besides the Chester -and Holyhead and other mails that pass through Abergele, there is -an omnibus which runs daily to Voryd, to meet the Liverpool and -Rhyl steam-packet.</p> -<p>The pretty villages of Bettws and Llanfair are in this -immediate neighbourhood: near the former is Coed Coch, the -residence of J. Ll. Wynn, Esq. Llanfair is most -picturesquely situated on the Elwy, a little way above its -conflux with the Aled. Close to the village is Garthewin, -the sylvan residence of Brownlow W. Wynne, Esq. embowered in -trees; and following up the Elwy and its narrow but beautiful -valley, is the village of Llangerniew; near to it is Llyn Elwy, -the pool from which issues and gives name to the river -Elwy. Havod-unos, about a quarter of a mile from the -village, is the seat of S. Sandbach, Esq. an eminent Liverpool -merchant, who some time ago purchased it and the estate, once the -property of a long list of <i>ap Llwyds</i>. Two or three -miles to the south-east, lies the village of Llansannan, at the -head of the pretty vale of Aled. Close below the village is -the elegant modern mansion of the Yorkes, called Dyffryn Aled: it -is built of Bath free stone, and presents a very beautiful and -classical structure. These are places a little out of the -common track of tourists, but they will not be disappointed at -visiting them; and from Abergele is the most convenient start to -them. The roads are good; the country very beautiful; trout -fishing is excellent in the Elwy and Aled from their sources, the -Aled and Elwy pools, to Rhuddlan; and the villages afford very -good passing-by accommodations.</p> -<p>On the hills above Abergele, grow some of the more uncommon -plants; geranium sanguineum, rubia peregrina, halloboris -fœtidus. In the shady wood, paris quadrifolia, and -ophrys nidus avis; and on the beach, glaucium luteum, and -eryngium maritimum abundantly. The hills are interesting to -the <a name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -10</span>geologist as well as to the botanist; and command -remarkably grand and extensive views of the ocean, and of the -adjacent mountain scenery.</p> -<p>About a mile from Abergele, on the left of the road towards -Conway, stands Gwrych Castle, a modern castellated mansion, the -property and residence of Henry Lloyd Bamford Hesketh, Esq. -The situation is admirably chosen for a magnificent sea view, -which, owing to the constant passing of vessels for the ports of -Liverpool and Chester, is extremely beautiful and animated. -Very near to this singular but ambitious looking structure, is a -huge calcareous rock, called Cefn-yr-Ogo (or the Back of the -Cavern), an inexhaustible mine of limestone, where a multitude of -labourers are constantly employed in blasting the rock, and -breaking the masses, which are exported to Liverpool and other -places. But what chiefly renders it curious is the -circumstance of a number of natural caverns penetrating its side -in different places; one of which, called Ogo (or the Cavern), is -well worth a visit. It is celebrated in history as having -once afforded a place of retreat to a British army. Its -mouth resembles the huge arched entrance of a Gothic -cathedral. A few feet within this, and immediately in the -centre of it, a rock rising from the floor to the lofty roof, not -unlike a massive pillar rudely sculptured, divides the cavern -into two apartments. The hollow to the left soon -terminates; but that to the right spreads into a large chamber, -30 feet in height, and stretching to a greater depth than human -curiosity has ever been hardy enough to explore. Making a -short turn a few yards from the entrance, and sweeping into the -interior of the mountain, the form and dimension of the abyss are -concealed in impenetrable darkness, and its windings can only be -followed about forty yards with prudence, when the light totally -disappears, and the flooring becomes both dirty and unsafe. -Stalactites of various fanciful forms decorate the fretted roof -and sides of this extraordinary cavern. <a -name="citation10"></a><a href="#footnote10" -class="citation">[10]</a></p> -<p><a name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 11</span>From -Cave Hill (Cefn-yr-Ogo), is an extensive and varied -prospect. The city of St. Asaph, the Vale of Clwyd, the -mountains of Flintshire, and in clear weather, a portion of -Cheshire and Lancashire, with the town of Liverpool, are -distinctly seen to the eastward; and to the north is visible the -Isle of Man; to the west, the Island of Anglesea; and to the -south-west, the mountains of Caernarvonshire. Just below is -the small village of</p> -<h4>Llanddulas.</h4> -<p>In this little village or glen it is supposed that Richard the -Second was surrounded and taken by a band of ruffians, secreted -by the Earl of Northumberland, for the purpose of forcing him -into the hands of Bolingbroke, who was at Flint. Here -enterprise has discovered the means of realizing wealth. A -railway, several miles long, has been constructed from the sea to -Llysfaen limestone rocks, being on a remarkably steep incline -down the side of the mountain. It is a stupendous work, and -highly creditable to the projector, Mr. Jones.</p> -<p>About two miles nearer Conway, is the increasing and -respectable village of Colwyn. A new church has lately been -erected here. Glan-y-don, the seat of H. Hesketh, Esq., is -in this neighbourhood; Mr. Wynne and Dr. Cumming have cottages -here, and many other genteel residences have recently been -built. The sea bathing is very good, and the place is -pleasant and salubrious. Up the valley, to the left of the -bridge, is the village of Llanelian, with its calm green meadows, -and its far-famed holywell, or Ffynan Fair.</p> -<p>Returning to Abergele, and at the opposite end, is a good and -direct road to Rhuddlan, through a number of excellent <a -name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 12</span>and extensive -corn farms. The road crosses the celebrated Morva Rhuddlan -(or Rhuddlan Marsh).</p> -<p>About three miles on the St. Asaph road is the neat and clean -little village of</p> -<h4>St. George, or Llan Saint Sior; <a name="citation12"></a><a -href="#footnote12" class="citation">[12]</a></h4> -<p>And about a quarter of a mile before you come to it, you pass -on your right Pen-y-Parc Hill, on the top of which is a Roman -encampment, afterwards occupied by the famous Owen Gwynedd, -during his struggles against English encroachments; and it was -here he pitched his tents after his “fine retreat before -Henry the Second, whom he here kept at bay.” The -curious may visit it from the village, inquiring for Park Meirch, -<i>where the old battles were fought</i>. And close to this -place is Dinorben, an ancient manor-house, from which is the -title of Lord Dinorben, whose residence, Kinmel Park, is a little -beyond, and close to the village. About six years since the -mansion was destroyed by fire; but has now been rebuilt in a -style of princely elegance, and has once more become the home of -that hospitality for which the respected proprietor is -famous. The park is finely wooded and well stocked with -deer. The scenery from the house is rich, varied, and -beautiful; the gardens and grounds are extensive, and tastefully -laid out. His royal highness, the Duke of Sussex, for -several years before his death, annually spent some weeks at -Kinmel in the shooting season.</p> -<p>The church at St. George is a neat structure, and has recently -been restored by Lord Dinorben, the patron. In the -church-yard is a costly stone mausoleum, in the Gothic style, -erected over the remains of Lady Dinorben, a lady beloved for her -virtues, and eminent for her charities. The architect was -Mr. Jones, of Chester: the design and workmanship are chaste and -elegant.</p> -<p>Not far from Kinmel, towards St. Asaph, is Bodelwyddan, the -modern elegant mansion of Sir John Hay Williams, Bart., one of -the most lovely spots in Wales; and in the plain below is -Pengwern, the hospitable seat of Lord Mostyn.</p> -<h3><a name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -13</span>ABERYSTWYTH,<br /> -(<i>Cardiganshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Aberdovey</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Devil’s Bridge</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanidloes</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">30</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London, by Ross</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">217</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Machynlleth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>[It may be necessary to apprise the reader, that though this -work is professedly a description of North Wales <span -class="smcap">only</span>, it has been thought advisable to -deviate from the letter of its title, so far as to include within -its pages the above distinguished town, and that great and -attractive curiosity, the Devil’s Bridge; both of which, -situated in Cardiganshire, the North Wales tourist usually -visits, the town being only 18 miles beyond Machynlleth, and the -cataract the same distance from Llanidloes.]</p> -<p>Aberystwyth has long been esteemed a fashionable watering -place; the gently sloping beach, the clearness of the water, and -the salubriousness of the air, have all conspired to render it an -inviting spot for sea-bathing; and within the last few years, the -efforts of art have been sedulously employed in seconding the -works of nature, by furnishing to its visitants excellent roads, -superior accommodations, and suitable buildings for fashionable -amusements. Pleasant walks have also been formed in the -environs. The town, which owes its origin to the erection -of the castle, is described by Leland as having been encompassed -by walls, (the last remains of which were removed some years -since,) and as being in his time a better market than Cardigan; -and Camden, who ascribes the building of its walls to Gilbert de -Clare, earl of Strongbow, states, that it was then the most -populous town in the county. Since that time it has -materially increased, both in extent and importance, and may be -still regarded as the most flourishing place in this part of -South Wales, its population in 1841 being returned at 4916. -It is pleasantly situated at the lower extremity of the valley of -Rheidiol, amid lofty hills, and on a bold eminence overlooking -the bay of Cardigan, by which it is bounded on one side, while on -the other it is environed by the Rheidiol, over which is a stone -bridge of five arches, forming an entrance to it from the -south.</p> -<p>The houses are in general well built, and of respectable -appearance, several of them being large and handsome, especially -such as are of modern erection, which are entirely of -stone. The streets are disposed with considerable -regularity, and well paved and macadamised. The inhabitants -are supplied <a name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -14</span>with water from the river Rheidiol, which is brought -into the town on carriages in the form of small carts, drawn by -one horse, each holding two barrels, and sold at a low -rate. About the commencement of the last century, it began -to rise into notice as a bathing-place, and from a series of -progressive improvements, is now one of the most frequented -places of fashionable resort on this part of the coast.</p> -<p>The beach affords a pleasant and interesting walk; and the -shore, consisting of lofty and precipitous rocks of dark-coloured -slate, is worn by the action of the waves into caverns of -romantic and picturesque appearance. The beach is composed -of fine pebbles, among which are found many valuable stones; the -water in consequence is always peculiarly clear, and -uncontaminated with any admixtures. In sandy situations, -the contrary is frequently the case. The fine stones are -picked up with great avidity by the numerous visitors residing -here in the summer months, and afford ample employment to several -lapidaries in the town. Hot sea-water, vapour, and -medicated baths are provided with every requisite accommodation; -several bathing machines are in attendance, and from the -convenient sloping of the beach, a facility of bathing is -afforded at almost any state of the tide, within a very short -distance of the shore. For the reception of the increasing -number of visitors, many additional lodging-houses have been -built, of which the Marine Terrace, a handsome range of modern -buildings suitable for private families, is situated on the -margin of the bay, commanding a fine marine view. The Belle -Vue is a spacious and commodious hotel; in front of which is a -fine promenade. On the south-west of the Marine Terrace, is -a gateway leading to a spacious castellated mansion, called the -Castle-house, commanding an extensive view across the bay: it was -originally built as a private mansion by the late Sir Uvedale -Price, Bart. of Foxley hall, Herefordshire, and consists of three -octagonal towers, connected by ranges of apartments, and having a -light and elegant balcony on the side towards the sea. -Beyond this, on one side is the Castle Hill, crowned with the -venerable ruins of an ancient fortress, and forming another -favourite promenade, affording from different points various -extensive, romantic, and interesting views of the sea, the -neighbouring hills, and the surrounding country.</p> -<p>On the other side of the Castle Hill, separated only by the -churchyard, are the new public rooms, handsomely built in the <a -name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 15</span>Grecian style -of architecture, on ground given by W. E. Powell, Esq., of Nant -Eös, from a design by Mr. Repton, at an expense of -£2000, raised by subscription in shares of £10 each, -and opened to the public in 1820. The suite consists of a -very handsome assembly and promenade room, a card-room and a -billiard-room. There is a good library in the new -market-place; a new theatre has been built on the north parade, -and was opened for the first time in the summer of 1833. -The church, dedicated to St. Michael, was built by subscription -in the year 1787: it is a plain structure, situated within the -precincts of the castle, and separated from the walks along the -ruins of that edifice by a stone wall erected at the expense of -the inhabitants. A gallery was erected in the church at its -western end in the year 1790, at an expense of £104 14s., -which was defrayed by Mrs. Margaret Pryce. The service is -performed in the morning and evening in the English language, and -in the afternoon in Welsh; there is likewise service on the -evenings of Wednesday in the English, and on the Thursday in the -Welsh language.</p> -<p>The augmented population of this place, and the increasing -number of visitors during the season, having rendered the -erection of another place of worship necessary, a church or -chapel has been recently built upon a large scale by -subscription, after a plan by Mr. Haycock, of Shrewsbury, in the -modern Gothic style, at an expense of £3600, including a -grant of £1000 from the parliamentary commissioners, and -£400 from the society for the enlargement of churches and -chapels: it was consecrated in September, 1833. The parish -church is situated at Llanbadarn, at about a mile distant from -the town. There is a peculiarity regarding the grave-stones -at this place: they are generally fixed in a stack of bricks -built up for the purpose, and white-washed, the tablet appearing -in front. The surface of the grave is usually paved with a -kind of small marble stones, which are found in abundance on the -beach. There are also several places of worship for -dissenters. Aberystwyth likewise possesses the advantage of -a chalybeate spring, situate at a very short distance east of the -town. This spring was discovered by a kind of accident in -1779. It is highly spoken of, as containing valuable -medicinal properties, and much resembling the Tunbridge waters; -but it is always advisable that a physician should be consulted -as to the season and extent of its use. To complete the -circle of attractions which this <a name="page16"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 16</span>interesting place presents, the -annual races are here rising into repute; these usually take -place in August, in a field near Gogerddan, about three miles -from the town. Archery and cricket clubs have also been -established, and are upheld with great spirit; and here the -lovers of angling may be gratified with their favourite -diversion. The Ystwyth and the Rheidiol are in the -immediate vicinity; the autumnal fishing for salmon and sewin is -excellent; and within a day’s excursion, a variety of -lake-fishing will afford capital sport.</p> -<p>Aberystwyth contains many interesting relics of antiquity, and -was evidently in the “olden time,” a place of some -renown, as well as a scene of some of the unhappy troubles which -darkened the reign of Charles the First.</p> -<p>In queen Elizabeth’s reign a company of Germans reaped a -large fortune in working the silver mines in the vicinity of this -town. Sir Hugh Myddleton, after them, was equally -successful, and accumulated £2000 a month out of one silver -mine at Bwlch yr Eskir, which enabled him (in 1614) to bring the -new river to London. He, again, was succeeded by Mr. -Bushell, a servant of Sir Francis Bacon, who also gained such -immense profits, that he made Charles the First a present of a -regiment of horse, and clothed his whole army; he also furnished -the king with a loan of £40,000, which was considered as a -gift to supply his necessities; and when that unfortunate monarch -was pressed, his devoted subject raised a regiment among his -miners at his own charge.</p> -<p>On Pen Dinas, a very high and steep hill, near the bridge over -the Rheidiol, is a large entrenchment, still in a good state of -preservation, and where, Caradoc informs us, Rhŷs ap -Gruffydd, in 1113, encamped his forces, which, by a -manœuvre of the English, were enticed from the hill over -the bridge, to besiege Aberystwyth castle, where they were -surrounded and cut off almost to a man. The tradition of -the town attributes this entrenchment to the forces employed by -Cromwell to besiege the castle. Opposite this, on a hill at -the extremity of the town, are two other entrenchments, in a bad -state of preservation and destitute of the tumuli or barrows, -often found contiguous to such vestiges in Wales.</p> -<p>Aberystwyth is a place of considerable trade; but the harbour, -being a bar harbour, is of uncertain and often dangerous -navigation, and frequently choked up, until the land freshes come -down, after heavy falls of rain, and force a passage. <a -name="page17"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 17</span>The trustees, -acting under the harbour act passed in 1780, being empowered to -raise the sum of £4000 for its improvement, upon mortgage -of the dues, and seeing the necessity of doing something more -effectually than the works they were occasionally enabled to -erect by the expenditure of the annual revenues, which were -constantly being swept away by the sea, determined upon employing -that eminent engineer and hydrographer, the late Mr. Nimmo, to -survey the harbour, and to give his report thereon. The -report having been published, by which it appeared that a sum of -£10,000 was necessary to carry his suggestions into effect; -a committee was formed, who issued a prospectus, soliciting -subscriptions from those disposed to aid them in the -accomplishment of so desirable an object, and the following -munificent donations were immediately made: the Duke of -Newcastle, £1000; the Earl of Lisburne, £500; Colonel -Powell, M.P. £500; Pryce Pryce, Esq. M.P. £500. -The works have since been completed.</p> -<p>The walks and drives in the vicinity are numerous and -engaging; and from the number of eminences by which the town is -environed on the land side, views the most varied and interesting -present themselves to the lover of the picturesque. From -the summit of Pen Dinas, he at once beholds three beautiful -valleys, with the rivers Ystwyth and Rheidiol winding their -devious course on either side beneath his feet. On turning -round, he is gratified with a magnificent view of the expansive -bay of Cardigan, with its bold coast stretching out on either -hand to the extremity of Cardiganshire on the southern side, and -that of Caernarvon on the northern; the latter embracing within -its range the rocky ridge of Cader Idris and the lofty peaks of -Snowdon. The prospect from the summit of Craig-lâs is -equally beautiful and diversified. The new line of road to -Hereford and Shrewsbury, completed at an expense of £4000, -along the opposite bank of the Rheidiol, to the Devil’s -Bridge road, and nearly parallel with it, passes through some -fine scenery, and the course of the river from the excellent new -inn at Ponterwyd is wild and terrific, particularly about the -spot called the Parson’s Bridge, half a mile therefrom.</p> -<p>The hotels and inns at Aberystwyth afford every comfort for -the entertainment of visitors, and there is every facility of -coach travelling to various parts of the country.</p> -<h4><a name="page18"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 18</span>THE -DEVIL’S BRIDGE,<br /> -(<i>Cardiganshire</i>.)</h4> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Aberystwyth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Havod</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanidloes</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">19</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Pont-y-Mynach, or Pont-ar-Fynach, vulgarly the Devil’s -Bridge, near the Havod Arms inn, is a single arch, about 30 feet -in the chord, thrown over another arch of less than 20 feet, -which spans a dark and tremendous chasm. The under arch is -said to have been thrown across by the monks of Ystrad Florida -Abbey, about the year 1087; but the country people, thinking so -bold an effort above the reach of those ghostly fathers, ascribed -it to his Satanic Majesty. The present bridge was built in -1753, at the expense of the county, over the original, which was -left standing; and the railings were put up in 1814, by Mr. -Johnes, of Havod. It is a most romantic and extraordinary -structure.</p> -<p>The scenery in this neighbourhood is inexpressibly grand and -sublime—what Byron would call, “a blending of all -beauties;” a combination of all those lovely charms and -impressive wonders, which Nature has scattered with such -exuberant prodigality throughout the mountains and valleys of -Wales.</p> -<p>The Havod Arms inn stands on a most interesting site in this -locality, and affords excellent accommodation to tourists.</p> -<p>Few persons, whether from North or South Wales, who visit the -falls of Pont-y-Mynach, but will be desirous of seeing the -celebrated seat of the late Mr. Johnes, at</p> -<h4>Havod,</h4> -<p>Which is about four miles distant. The mansion was -built, and the estate laid out in its present paradisaical state -of loveliness, by the late Mr. Johnes, of whom it has been truly -said, he made the barren wilderness around him to smile, and -converted the worthless heath into waving woods, luxuriant corn -fields, and pastures. From October, 1795, to April, 1801, -Mr. Johnes planted more than 2,065,000 trees, besides a great -number of acres that he sowed with acorns. Since this -period the plantations have been extended on the same scale with -equal spirit; from one to two hundred thousand trees being -planted every year.</p> -<p>The mansion is built of Portland stone, in a somewhat novel -mode of architecture, from designs by Mr. Baldwyn of Bath; it -combines the distinguishing features of the Moorish and Gothic <a -name="page19"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 19</span>styles, with -turrets and painted windows. It is situated near the banks -of the river Ystwyth, and beautifully environed by lofty hills, -clothed with oak. The interior of the house corresponds in -elegance with the exterior.</p> -<p>A correct idea of the enchanting beauties of the scenery has -been left on record by the elegant pen of Mr. -Cumberland:—“Havod is a place in itself so -pre-eminently beautiful, that it highly merits a particular -description. It stands surrounded with so many noble -scenes, diversified with elegance as well as with grandeur; the -country on the approach to it is so very wild and uncommon, and -the place itself is now so embellished by art, that it will be -difficult, I believe, to point out a spot that can be put in -competition with it, considered either as the object of the -painter’s eye, the poet’s mind, or as a desirable -residence for those who, admirers of the beautiful wildness of -nature, love also to inhale the pure air of aspiring mountains, -and enjoy that <i>santo pacé</i>, as the Italians -expressively term it, which arises from solitudes made social by -a family circle. From the portico it commands a woody, -narrow, winding vale; the undulating form of whose ascending -shaggy sides are richly clothed with various foliage, broken with -silver waterfalls, and crowned with climbing sheep-walks, -reaching to the clouds. Neither are the luxuries of life -absent; for, on the margin of the Ystwyth, where it flows -broadest through this delicious vale, we see hothouses and a -conservatory; beneath the rocks, a bath; amid the recesses of the -woods, a flower-garden; and within the building, whose -decorations, though rich, are pure and simple, we find a mass of -rare and valuable literature, whose pages here seem doubly -precious, where meditation finds scope to range unmolested.</p> -<p>“In a word, so many are the delights afforded by the -scenery of this place and its vicinity, to a mind imbued with any -taste, that the impression on mine was increased after an -interval of ten years from the first visit, employed chiefly in -travelling among the Alps, the Appennines, the Sabine hills, and -the Tyrolese; along the shores of the Adriatic, over the Glaciers -of Switzerland, and up the Rhine; where, though in search of -beauty, I never, I feel, saw any thing so fine—never so -many pictures concentrated in one spot; so that, warmed by the -renewal of my acquaintance with them, I am irresistibly urged to -attempt a description of the hitherto almost virgin-haunts of -these obscure mountains.</p> -<p><a name="page20"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -20</span>“Wales, and its borders, both North and South, -abound, at intervals, with fine things: Piercefield has grounds -of great magnificence, and wonderful picturesque beauty; Downton -Castle has a deliciously wooded vale, most tastefully managed; -Llangollen is brilliant; the banks of the Conway savagely grand; -Barmouth romantically rural; the great Pistyll-y-Rhaiadr is -horribly wild; Rhaiadr-y-Wennol gay, and gloriously irregular; -each of which merits a studied description. But at Havod -and its neighbourhood, I find the effects of all in one circle; -united with this peculiarity, the deep dingles, and mighty woody -slopes, which, from a different source, conduct the -Rheidiol’s never-failing waters from Plinlimmon, and the -Mynach, are of an unique character, as mountainous forests, -accompanying gigantic size with graceful forms; and taken -altogether, I see ‘the sweetest interchange of hill and -valley, rivers, woods and plains, and falls, with forests -crowned, rocks, dens, and caves,’ insomuch that it requires -little enthusiasm there to feel forcibly with Milton—</p> -<blockquote><p>‘All things that be send up from -earth’s great altar<br /> -Silent praise.’</p> -</blockquote> -<p>“There are four fine walks from the house, chiefly -through ways artificially made by the proprietor; all dry, kept -clean, and composed of materials found on the spot; which is -chiefly a coarse stone, of a greyish cast, friable in many -places, and like slate, but oftener consisting of immense masses -that cost the miner, in making some parts of these walks, -excessive labour; for there are places where it was necessary to -perforate the rock many yards, in order to pass a promontory -that, jutting across the way, denied further access; and to go -round which you must have taken a great tour, and made a -fatiguing descent. As it is, the walks are so conducted -that few are steep; the transitions easy, the returns commodious, -and the branches distinct. Neither are there too many; for -much is left for future projectors; and if a man be stout enough -to range the underwoods, and fastidious enough to reject all -trodden paths, he may, almost every where, stroll from the -studied line, till he be glad to regain the friendly conduct of -the well-known way. Yet one must be nice, not to be content -at first to visit the best points of view by the general routine; -for all that is here done has been to remove obstructions, reduce -the materials, and conceal the art; and we are no where presented -with attempts to force the untamed streams, or indeed to invent -<a name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 21</span>any thing, -where nature, the great mistress, has left all art -behind.”</p> -<p>To this lively delineation, we shall only add one sentence of -the Rev. Mr. Warner, who, after visiting this spot, -remarks:—“The whole together forms a scene so -striking, that while wandering through its ever-changing -beauties, we felt no inclination to tax Mr. Cumberland with -enthusiasm when he declared that in ten years’ travelling -through the Alps, the Appennines, the Sabine hills, and the -Tyrolese; the shores of the Adriatic; the Glaciers of -Switzerland; and the banks of the Rhine; he never saw any thing -so fine—never so many pictures concentrated in one -spot.”</p> -<p>The splendid library at Havod was adorned with a most valuable -collection of books and manuscripts, which Mr. Johnes had, at an -immense expense, brought together, many of which were unique and -of the highest historical importance, including those of Sir John -Sebright’s collection, in the Welsh language, together with -some splendidly illuminated manuscripts of Froissart. -These, with several thousand volumes, comprising a complete Don -Quixote’s library, with other works of equal rarity, which -cannot be replaced, were unfortunately consumed by a fire which -destroyed the mansion on March 13, 1807. The origin of this -calamity has never been satisfactorily ascertained, neither is it -possible to estimate, with any approach to accuracy, the extent -of the loss: it has been stated at £70,000. However, -Mr. Johnes determined to restore his mansion in the best manner -he could, and another collection of books was soon made, founded -by the Pesaro library, which Mr. Johnes had purchased in Italy, -and was on its way to Havod at the time when the fire -occurred.</p> -<p>This highly esteemed, accomplished, and public-spirited -gentleman survived the destructive visitation about nine years, -during which he was engaged in promoting improvements on his -estate. He died at Exeter, and his mortal remains were -interred in the family vault at the new church built by himself -within the precincts of Havod grounds. His widow survived -until October, 1833, when she also died at Exeter, and was buried -in the same tomb with her respected husband and their only -daughter, who died on the 24th July, 1811, in the 27th year of -her age. The family becoming extinct upon the death of the -widow, the vault, after her interment, was completely arched -over.</p> -<p><a name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 22</span>The -whole of the magnificent estate of Havod was put up to auction by -Mr. Robins, in the spring of 1831, and became the property of the -Duke of Newcastle, together with the timber, the splendid -collection of books and furniture, and the large cellar of choice -wines, for which that nobleman is said to have paid about -£62,000. The noble duke expended a very large sum in -enlarging and improving, and became a most munificent benefactor -to the neighbourhood. In 1843, however, it was again -submitted to the hammer of Mr. Robins, but no sale was -effected. The estate has since been bought of His Grace by -H. Bold Houghton, Esq. The purchase-money is said to have -been £150,000.</p> -<h3>AMLWCH.<br /> -(<i>Anglesea</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Beaumaris</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holyhead</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanerch-y-medd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Menai Bridge</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This is a market town on the coast, chiefly supported by the -copper mines, with which the surrounding district abounds. -About the year 1766, Amlwch had not more than half-a-dozen houses -in the whole parish, but now it contains a population exceeding -6000. It has a capacious harbour, cut out of the solid rock -or slate, executed at the expense of the mining companies, -capable of admitting thirty vessels of 200 tons burthen, where -originally there was only a cleft or opening, too small to -receive a single vessel. There are large smelting works for -copper erected near the harbour, the property of the mining -companies.</p> -<p>In conjunction with Beaumaris, Holyhead, and Llangefni, this -town returns one member to parliament. The church, -consecrated in 1801, is an elegant building, erected by the Parys -mine company, at an expense of £4000. The situation -of Amlwch is most salubrious.</p> -<p>The immense treasures contained in the Parys mountain, which -is in the immediate vicinity of Amlwch, and to which the town -owes its prosperity, were unknown and lay neglected until about -the year 1765, when one Frazer, a Scotch miner, came in search of -ores, and gave encouragement to other adventurers. Though -he discovered copper ore by sinking shafts in the mountain, he -was discouraged from proceeding <a name="page23"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 23</span>by the influx of water. Sir N. -Bailey, grandfather of the Marquis of Anglesea, who had leased -the lead mines at Penrhyn-dû, in Caernarvonshire, to the -Macclesfield company, bound them to make a spirited effort to -work the Parys mine. This they did, but with so little -success, that after some time they sent positive orders to the -agent to discontinue his operations, and discharge the -miners. The agent, however, fortunately disobeyed the -injunction; and as a last attempt, collected all his mining force -to one spot, where he sunk a shaft, and within seven feet of the -surface discovered a body of ore which was worked with great -success for many years. This happened on the 2d of March, -1768, whence St. Chad has ever since been a venerated patron of -the Anglesea miners.</p> -<p>In the Parys mountain are two mines: of these, that upon the -eastern side is called the Mona mine, the entire property of the -Marquis of Anglesea, who works it, and also the smelting house at -Amlwch. The Parys mine is the joint property of the Marquis -of Anglesea and Lord Dinorben, and is now worked by a -company. The stranger, in order to see the mines to -advantage, should first furnish himself with a guide, to avoid -danger, and follow the steps of Mr. Bingley, who thus describes -his efforts to gratify his curiosity:—“Having -ascended to the top, I found myself standing on the verge of a -vast and tremendous chasm. I stept on one of the stages -suspended over the edge of the steep, and the prospect was -dreadful. The number of caverns at different heights along -the sides; the broken and irregular masses of rock which -everywhere presented themselves; the multitudes of men at work in -different parts, and apparently in the most perilous situations; -the motions of the whimsies, and the raising and lowering of the -buckets, to draw out the ore and rubbish; the noise of picking -the ore from the rock, and of hammering the wadding when it was -about to be blasted; with, at intervals, the roaring of the -blasts in different parts of the mine—altogether excited -the most sublime ideas, intermixed, however, with sensations of -terror.</p> -<p>“I left this situation, and followed the road that leads -into the mine; and the moment I entered my astonishment was again -excited. The shagged arches and overhanging rocks, which -seemed to threaten annihilation to any one daring enough to -approach them, fixed me almost motionless to the spot. The -roofs of the work, having in many places fallen in, have left <a -name="page24"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 24</span>some of the -rudest scenes that the imagination can paint; these, with the -sulphureous fumes from the kilns in which the ore is roasted, -gave it to me a perfect counterpart to Virgil’s entrance -into Tartarus. To look up from hence and observe the people -on the stages, a hundred and fifty feet above one’s head; -to see the immense number of ropes and buckets, most of them in -motion; and to reflect that a single stone, casually thrown from -above, or falling from a bucket, might in a moment destroy a -fellow-creature—a man must have a strong mind not to feel -impressed with most unpleasant sensations.”</p> -<p>The mines are still prolific in their production of copper -ore, and afford a great revenue to their proprietors.—There -are also alum works, and a green vitriol manufactory in the -neighbourhood of these mines. The principal inns at Amlwch -are Ty Mawr and the Castle. About four miles distant is -Llysdulas, the hospitable seat of Col. Hughes, brother to Lord -Dinorben.</p> -<h3>BALA,<br /> -(<i>Merionethshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Corwen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dinas Mowddwy</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dolgellau</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">17</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ffestiniog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">19</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">207</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mawr Twrog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Bala, or the Outlet of the Lake, is a small neat town -consisting of one long street, with two or three others crossing -at right angles, and a population of about 2500. There are -two good inns here, the White Lion and the Bull’s Head, the -former being an excellent posting house. This town is noted -for its trade in woollen stockings, woollen comfortables, and -Welsh wigs. Mr. Pennant remarks, that in his time, on a -Saturday, their market-day, from two to five hundred pounds worth -of these goods were disposed of; but this staple appears to have -greatly decreased since that period. Still, however, -knitting is here an almost universal employment; and whether you -walk in the town, or the country around, you will scarcely ever -meet a female unemployed, even while they carry water, or other -burdens upon their heads.</p> -<p>Near the south-east end of the town is a high artificial -mount, called Tommen-y-Bala, supposed to be of Roman -construction: in the summer time it is usually covered, in a -picturesque manner, with knitters of all ages. From the -summit there is it fine view of Llyn Tegid and the adjacent -mountains, <a name="page25"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -25</span>which present a particularly grand and majestic aspect -in this vicinity, successfully rivalling the glories of -Snowdonia. The quarter sessions for the county are held -here; and also the spring assizes. The town-hall is a plain -building, standing in the principal street. A -chapel-of-ease was erected in 1811 by subscription: it is a plain -structure, with a low tower, surmounted by a spire. The -parish church is situate at Llanycil, about a mile from the town: -the service is performed there in the morning, and at Bala in the -afternoon. The Rev. Thomas Charles, Calvinistic Methodist, -the founder of the Bible Society, resided here. He was a -great promoter of education and Sunday schools amongst his -countrymen; and compiled a Welsh biblical dictionary in four -volumes.</p> -<h4>Bala Lake,</h4> -<p>Llyn Tegid, or Pimblemere, (for this pool has these various -names) is within a quarter of a mile south of the town, and is a -fine expanse of water, with well-cultivated, sloping boundaries, -clothed in many parts with verdant woods.</p> -<p>Bala and it fine lake (says Mr. Roscoe in his -“Wanderings through North Wales,”) have attractions -peculiar to themselves. To appreciate them as they deserve, -the traveller should first ascend the craggy summit of the -neighbouring mountain, and gaze upon the rude glens beyond, -through which the boisterous Twrch rushes in a succession of -resounding falls. It is by contrasting the wilder and -fiercer tracts of the landscape, with its milder features round -the quiet hamlet and lake, that we add fresh zest to the -interchange of feelings ever open to the Cambrian -traveller. Bala lake is the most extensive in Wales, being -nearly four miles in length, and three quarters of one in -breadth, its banks consequently embracing a circuit of about nine -miles. Its greatest depth is forty feet; and the water is -said to be so pure, that the nicest chemical tests can detect -scarcely any foreign admixture.</p> -<p>Be this as it may, the lake has abundance of pike, perch, -trout, eels, and roach, with shoals of a fish called gwyniad, so -named from the extreme whiteness of its scales. It is a -gregarious fish, often found in the Alpine lakes, more especially -those of Switzerland, and dies soon after it is taken. Its -weight rarely exceeds four pounds, and its flavour is by many -persons considered rather insipid; a circumstance that by no -means recommends the gallantry of the late Lord Lyttelton, <a -name="page26"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 26</span>when he -assures his friends that it is so exquisitely delicate as to more -than rival in flavour the lips of the fair maids of Bala -themselves. But, being so very good, and like the ladies of -Bala, perhaps, sensible of their attractions, these fish have the -shrewdness to keep out of harm’s way, as we are told, by -remaining at the bottom of the water, where they feed on small -shells and aquatic plants, from which scarcely any bait will -induce them to emerge; they are, therefore, principally taken by -nets. The angler may always be certain that, while a cloud -rests on Aran, he may save himself the trouble of fishing in the -lake. In former times the fishery is stated to have formed -part of the possessions attached to Basingwerk Abbey, but has -since fallen into the hands of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, who has -pitched his tent, in the shape of a neat sporting-box, quite -according to the Irish rule, ‘convanient to the -spot.’</p> -<p>Though now so calm and beautiful,—reflecting all the -quiet and clearness of the heavens upon its breast, as the -swallow skimmed its glassy surface, and the wild-fowl sought -their home in its little bays and creeks,—the aspect of -Bala Lake, when the storm is up, and ‘the winter -wild’ puts on his terrors, can assume a very different kind -of beauty. To see it when the autumnal winds ruffle its -broad expanse with billows, or the clouds discharge their -contents as fiercely as the torrent from the hills,—when -the drifting rack and snow-storm mingle the last leaves of the -year with the scattered beauty of the meads and gardens, the -observer can no longer recognise the least resemblance in the -characteristics of the two landscapes, the Bala of the opposite -seasons.</p> -<p>Upon the north-east side, the water sometimes rises many feet -above its usual level. When the winds and the rains, as I -was informed, ‘meet and combine the whole of their -forces,’ it is a grand sight to see the lake overshoot its -banks, and rush beyond into the valley of old Edeirnion. -Once, in the month of June, 1781, a part of the vicinity is -believed to have been inundated by one of those singular -occurrences, the bursting of an overcharged cloud, called a -water-spout, which, however frequently beheld at sea, seldom -visits the land. It was attended by terrific lightning and -continuous rain, which caused the Twrch—fed by torrents -from the Bwlch-y-Groes hills—to overflow and sweep every -thing before it. The spoils of fields and villages, and -even human life, marked the progress of the flood; and as far as -Corwen the rising of the rivers suddenly <a -name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 27</span>burst on the -ear of the affrighted people. The scene round Bala is -recorded by the old inhabitants as heart-rending and -terrific. The deep and dismal chasm, spanned by the -one-arched bridge through which the stream of the llyn pours its -flood down the wildest rocky falls, exhibited a magnificent -sight, swelled by the mountain rains into one immense volume of -foaming cataract, which again bursting from its black and -caverned bed through the wooded glens beyond, rolled its unusual -mass of burdened torrents to join the waters of the Twrch. -Along the course of the Dee, huge branches, and some of the large -forest-trees themselves, which threw a gloomier shadow over the -stormy scene, were uprooted by the maddening storm and launched -into the yawning flood. The lake rose with the impulse of -the storm, till it assumed the aspect of a wild and restless sea, -keeping stern music with the crashing of the neighbouring woods -and the whistling of the blast, while, drowning the roar of the -torrent, the thunder, ever and anon, startled the ear, and -occasional flashes illuminating the sky exhibited for a moment -the lurid and dreadful scene to view.</p> -<p>Bala is an excellent station for anglers, who are sure of good -sport, and a delightful ramble on the banks of the lake.</p> -<h4>The River Dee.</h4> -<p>The name of the wizard stream is thought to have been derived -from the Welsh word Dwfr-Dwy, that is, the waters of the two -rivers. Some centuries ago the Dee was held in -superstitious veneration by the inhabitants of the country, from -what were then believed the miraculous overflowing of its banks -at times when there had been no preceding heavy rains: and from -its being believed to have foretold some remarkable events by -changing its channel. History informs us, that when the -Britons, drawn up in battle-array on its banks, had been prepared -to engage with their Saxon foes, it was their custom first to -kiss the earth, and then for every soldier to drink a small -quantity of the water. The name is certainly not derived, -as many have supposed, from <i>dû</i>, black; for, except -when tinged by the torrents from the mountain morasses, its -waters are perfectly bright and transparent. In -Spenser’s description of Caer Gai, the dwelling of old -Timon, foster-father of Arthur, the colour of the Dee is -considered very different from black:</p> -<blockquote><p> <a -name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 28</span>“Lowe -in a valley green.<br /> -Under the foot of Rawran mossie o’er,<br /> -From whence the river Dee, as <i>silver clene</i>.<br /> -His tempting billows roll with gentle roar.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>That lover of the marvellous, Giraldus Cambrensis, informs as -very gravely, that the river Dee runs through Bala lake, and is -discharged at the bridge near the town without their waters -becoming mixed. He, doubtless, means to say, that the river -might be traced by its appearance from one end of the lake to the -other. Giraldus has the reputation of being very -credulous.</p> -<p>The Dee, descending from Bala lake, passes under a small -bridge, at the opposite end of which it enters, and from which -the channel of the river is formed. It then winds along the -beautiful vale of Corwen, about four miles below which it washes -the eastern side of Denbighshire, and passing the bridge at -Llangollen, it very soon forms the boundary division between -England and Wales. Its chief tributaries are the Alwen, -which has its rise in one of the lakes on the western part of the -county; the Ceiriog, which descends from the slate mountains near -Chirk; the Clywedog, which it receives below Bangor Is-y-coed; -and the Alun, which rises in the mountains about Llandegla. -It flows northward to Chester, Flintshire, and the Irish sea.</p> -<p>Close to Bala, on the Corwen road, is Rhiwlas, the seat of R. -W. Price, Esq.: the house is situated on an eminence, in the -midst of extensive grounds, and forms an interesting object, -being profusely decorated with an evergreen, which likewise -adorns the lodge-gates. A considerable stream, called the -Tryweryn, which runs through the domain, adds much to the general -beauty of this pretty retreat.</p> -<h3>BANGOR.<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Abergele</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">27</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Beaumaris, by the bridge</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Capel Curig</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Conway</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holyhead</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">24</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London, by Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">251</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>— by Shrewsbury</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">237</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Plas Newydd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Penmaen Mawr</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8½</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Bangor, (from ban côr, the high and beautiful choir,) is -a small but neatly built town, and the most ancient see in the -Principality. Its present population, 7232. It has -been much <a name="page29"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -29</span>improved within the last few years, especially since the -erection of the Menai Bridge, which has attracted numerous -visitors anxious to see one of the finest works of human skill, -though still inconsiderable in comparison with its importance in -ancient times, when it was denominated Bangor Vawr, or the Great -Bangor, probably to distinguish it from Bangor Is-y-coed in -Flintshire. The town is delightfully situated in a -sheltered vale, between two high ridges of slate rock, at the -mouth of the Menai Straits, of which it commands a beautiful -prospect.</p> -<p>Bangor and its environs have the advantage of an almost -inexhaustible diversity of walks, rides, and sea excursions; and -in addition to these highly interesting facilities, several new -roads and path-ways have recently been completed and generously -thrown open to the public by the spirited proprietors of the -Pen’r-allt estate, who disposed of that valuable property -to various persons, for the erection of villas, ornamental marine -residences, lodging houses, and public baths.</p> -<p>Garth-point, the eastern extremity of the Pen’r-allt -property, a short distance from the city, where a ferry crosses -to the Anglesea shore, is unrivalled for the sublimity, -picturesque beauty, and variety of its surrounding objects, -consisting of an immense expanse of seas, mountains, lowlands, -and plantations. To the left, on the Anglesea coast, are -seen an extensive sloping wood and a pretty marine cottage, -forming part of the domain of Baron Hill, the splendid mansion of -Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley, Bart. M.P.; the town, castle, church, and -bay of Beaumaris; and about five miles further, to the -north-east, Puffin or Priestholm Island, with its tower and -semaphore. To the right, on the Caernarvonshire coast, the -majestic promontory of Great Orme’s Head (abounding with -copper ore) stands boldly forward, apparently isolated, its -rugged front protruding like a rocky fortress into the sea, to -guard the entrance to the Menai Straits; Little Orme’s -Head, Conway Bay, Penmaen Bâch, Pen-dyffryn, the residence -of Sir Chas. Smith; Penmaen Mawr, Bryn-y-neuadd, the seat of John -Wynne, Esq.; Prince Llywelyn’s Tower, the Pass, village and -church of Aber, the property of Sir Richard Bulkeley. To -the south-east of which appear, in pre-eminent height and -grandeur, the cloud-capt Carnedd Llywelyn and Carnedd Dafydd, in -“Snowdon’s Alpine range;” Penrhyn Castle, the -superb mansion of the Hon. Col. Douglas Pennant, M.P.; Port -Penrhyn with its numerous shipping; the spacious Penrhyn Arms Inn -and pleasure grounds; Hirael <a name="page30"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 30</span>quay and shore; forming altogether, -in one expansive view, a glorious panorama of at least thirty -miles in circuit.</p> -<p>At the egress of the river Cegid into the Menai, a commodious -harbour has been formed, called Port Penrhyn, which is capable of -admitting and securing vessels of three hundred tons -burden. The quay is upwards of three hundred yards long, -and an immense tonnage of slates brought by railway from the -quarries about six miles distant, is thence shipped to all parts -of the world. A neat stone bridge over the river Cegid -connects the quay with the city. The market at Bangor is -held on Friday.</p> -<p>There are several excellent inns, where the traveller will -find the best accommodations, as well as post-chaises and cars, -with “good horses and careful drivers.” The -Penrhyn Arms Hotel, a short distance from the town, is really a -princely establishment, on an extensive and admirable scale of -management. The Castle, Liverpool Arms, and Royal Oak inns, -have also a good reputation.</p> -<p>The following extract from Dr. Johnson’s diary, when he -visited this city in 1774, in company with Mr. and Mrs. Thrale, -will exhibit the progress of improvement at Bangor in a very -advantageous point of light:—“At evening (says he) -the moon shone eminently bright, and our thoughts of danger (on -passing Penmaen Mawr) being now past, the rest of our journey was -very pleasant. At an hour somewhat late, we came to Bangor, -where we found <i>a very mean inn</i>, <i>and had some difficulty -of obtaining a lodging</i>. <i>I lay in a room where the -other bed had two men</i>.” What a contrast to the -splendid accommodation now obtainable by tourists at this popular -watering-place! Within the last twenty years, the -population has been quadrupled, almost all the town built or -rebuilt, all the old roads altered or widened, and new ones -formed in the direction of London and Holyhead.</p> -<p>The facilities for travelling are abundant:—In summer -there are steam-packets everyday to and from Liverpool; and in -winter, two or three every week. The London mail passes -through Bangor each way every day, also the Chester and Liverpool -mail; and besides these, there are daily coaches to London, -Chester, Liverpool, Caernarvon, Pwllheli, and Barmouth.</p> -<p>Three banks have been recently established at Bangor, one of -which is a branch of the Chester bank of Messrs. Williams <a -name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 31</span>and Co., at -the Cottage, the bottom of Waterloo-street; another, a branch of -the North and South Wales bank, in High-street, nearly opposite -the Market-place; and the third, a branch of the National -Provincial, in the same street. By the Reform Act, Bangor -was made a contributory borough in returning a member of -parliament for Caernarvon; W. B. Hughes, Esq. is the present -member.</p> -<h4>The Cathedral</h4> -<p>stands on a low piece of ground near the centre of the town, -and externally has but a humble appearance. It was founded -about 525, by Daniel, son of Dinothus, abbot of Bangor Is-y-coed, -in Flintshire, under the auspices of Maelgwm Gwynedd, king of -Wales, founder of Penmon, patron of Taliesin, and the most -liberal prince of his time, though much abused by Gildas, who -calls him Insularum Draco, because he resisted the innovations -which Pope Gregory wished to introduce into the British church by -means of Augustine the monk, and which gave rise to the -denunciatory ode of Taliesin—</p> -<blockquote><p>“Gwa ’r offeiriaid mud.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The mother church suffered greatly at different periods during -the civil commotion. It was destroyed in 1071, but soon -afterwards rebuilt; and in 1212, when King John invaded the -country, having passed Conway, he halted at Aber, and sent part -of his army to burn Bangor. The city was destroyed, and -Robert of Shrewsbury, then bishop of that see, carried prisoner -to the English camp. He was afterwards ransomed for two -hundred hawks. The prelate was, however, suffered to remain -here, although incapable of performing his duty effectively, on -account of his ignorance of the language of the people. At -his death, in accordance with his own request, he was interred in -the market-place at Shrewsbury. He was the original -compiler of the wonderful legend of St. Winifrede, afterwards -enlarged by Bishop Fleetwood. In the year 1402, the sacred -edifice was again reduced to ruin by the rage of Owen Glyndwr -(who was infuriated by his wrongs and sufferings), and lay in -ruins ninety years, when the choir was restored by Bishop Deane -or Deny. The body and tower now existing were built by -Bishop Skeffington in 1532.</p> -<p>Some considerable improvements were completed in the cathedral -in 1827, by the outlay of £2000 from the tithes of -Llanddinam, in Montgomeryshire, appropriated by an act of <a -name="page32"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 32</span>James the -Second, 1685, for the repairs of Bangor cathedral, and -£2000 collected in different parts of the united kingdom, -by the praiseworthy and indefatigable exertions of the Rev. J. H. -Cotton, LL.B., then precentor and senior vicar, but now dean, the -whole of which has been expended in the most advantageous manner, -under his superintendence, and will remain a lasting monument of -his zeal and perseverance. Some years ago, the citizens of -Bangor originated a subscription to this estimable dignitary, in -acknowledgment of the many good services he had rendered to the -city and neighbourhood. The worthy dean, with his -characteristic regard for the fabrics as well as the doctrines of -the church, devoted the sum to the ornamenting the cathedral with -a splendid painted window,—a lasting memorial of the -respect and veneration in which he is held, and of his -praiseworthy disinterestedness.</p> -<p>The bishopric owes the chief of its revenues and immunities to -Anian, bishop of the diocese in the reign of Edward the First, -who, being in high favour with that monarch, and having had the -honour of christening the young prince, born at Caernarvon, -afterwards Edward the Second, had, as a compensation for the -temporalities confiscated in the reign of Henry the Third, -various manors, ferries, and grants from the revenues of the -Principality, allotted to the see.</p> -<p>Here was anciently a parish church, built in 975, by king -Edgar, situated about 400 yards north-east of the cathedral, and -called Llanvair Edward Vrenin. Bishop Skeffington, in Henry -the Eighth’s time, caused it to be taken down, and repaired -the present church with the materials. Here, likewise, near -the sea shore, Tudor ab Gronwy, of Penmynydd and Tre’r -Castell, in Anglesea, founded a house of Black Friars, and was -interred there in 1311. In an old monody to this individual -are the following lines:—</p> -<blockquote><p>For Tudor dead, the tears incessant flow,<br /> -And Bangor suffers in the general woe.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The free school was founded in 1557, by Dr. Jeffrey Glynn, -upon the site of this building. It has long enjoyed -reputation as a training seminary for Oxford, Cambridge, and -Trinity College, Dublin. The environs are well cultivated -and picturesque, and are interspersed with handsome residences, -amongst which is that of the bishop’s palace.</p> -<p>On the summit of a steep rock, opposite Friars’ School, -are to be traced the remains of an ancient castle, supposed to -have <a name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 33</span>been -built by Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester, in the reign of Henry the -Second. Several pieces of scoria have been found on the -spot, which leave no doubt that arrows have been manufactured -there at some very distant period. On the extreme height of -the opposite hill, at the back of Friars’ School, are the -remains of a British encampment, on an extensive scale, of more -ancient date than the preceding. These interesting objects -will be found, on investigation, well worthy the notice of the -antiquary. It is conjectured, that the British encampment -alluded to, communicated, to the southward, with Dinas Dinorwic, -near Llandeiniolen, as that renowned British station is -distinctly seen from this spot; and also with another to the -east, called Braich-y-Ddinas, situate on the summit of Penmaen -Mawr.</p> -<p>An elegant Roman Catholic chapel has recently been erected in -the suburbs of the city, on the Caernarvon road.</p> -<p>Pleasant excursions may be made from Bangor to Conway, -Caernarvon, Beaumaris, Amlwch, Plâs Newydd, Aber, Port -Penrhyn, Priestholm or Puffin Island, Penrhyn Castle, the -Llandegai slate quarries, and Snowdon. In fact, the -locality abounds with objects of natural beauty and historical -interest.</p> -<h4>Great Suspension Bridge.</h4> -<p>Within about two miles from Bangor, near the spot where the -old ferry was, stands that stupendous monument of human skill, -the <span class="smcap">Menai Bridge</span>.</p> -<p>The erection of this bridge was for several years in -contemplation before it was finally determined upon. In -1810 and 1811, several plans were submitted to a committee of the -House of Commons, and particularly one in the latter year, by Mr. -Telford, proposing a bridge of cast iron, the expense of which -was estimated at £127,000; but the difficulty of fixing a -proper centring, owing to the rocky bottom of the channel, and -the depth and rapidity of the tide-way, caused this project to be -abandoned. In 1818, a new plan was presented by the same -engineer, for a bridge on the suspension principle. In -developing this plan, Mr. Telford remarks, “The iron -hanging bridge over the Menai to consist of one opening of 560 -feet between the points of suspension; in addition to which there -are to be seven arches, four on the coast of Anglesea, and three -on that of Caernarvonshire, each 60 feet in the span, making the -total length of the bridge 910 feet; the height above the <a -name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>level of high -water line to be 100 feet. The road-way will embrace two -carriage ways, each twelve feet in breadth, with a foot-path of -four feet between them. The whole is to be suspended from -four lines of strong iron cables, by perpendicular iron rods -placed five feet apart, and these rods will support the road-way -framing. The suspending power is calculated at 2016 tons, -and the weight to be suspended, exclusive of the cables, is 343 -tons, leaving a disposable power of 1674 tons.</p> -<p>“The four sides of the road-ways will be made of framed -iron work, firmly bound together for seven feet in height, and -there will be a similar work for five feet in depth below the -cables. The weight of the whole bridge between the points -of suspension will be 489 tons. The abutments will consist -of the masonry, comprising the extreme stone-work, the two piers, -and the seven arches before mentioned: each of the two piers will -be 60 feet by 40½ wide at high water mark, having a -foundation of rock. Upon the summit of the two main piers, -will be erected a frame of cast-iron work, of a pyramidal form, -for the purpose of raising the cables from which the bridge is to -be suspended.” The probable cost of erecting this -structure Mr. Telford estimated at £60,000, or, allowing -for any unforeseen charges, at most £70,000, about -one-fourth of the calculated expense of the cast-iron bridge on -the old plan.</p> -<p>The following particulars we extract from Dr. Pring’s -Narrative of the Grand Menai Suspension Bridge, published -immediately on its completion. “The first stone of -this national bridge was laid without any ceremony on the 10th -August, 1820, by Mr. Provis, resident engineer. On the 26th -April, 1825, the first chain of this stupendous work was thrown -over the straits of Menai, in the presence of an immense -concourse of people. At half-past two o’clock, it -then being about half flood tide, the raft prepared for the -occasion, stationed on the Caernarvonshire side, near Treborth -mill, which supported the part of the chain intended to be drawn -over, began to move gradually from its moorings, towed by four -boats, with the assistance of the tide, to the centre of the -river, between the two grand piers. When the raft was -adjusted, and brought to its ultimate situation, it was made fast -to several buoys, anchored in the channel for that purpose. -A part of the chain, pending from the apex of the suspending pier -on the Caernarvonshire side down nearly to high-water mark, was -then made fast by a bolt, to the part of the chain laying on the -raft; which operation was completed in ten minutes.</p> -<p><a name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -35</span>“The next process was the fastening of the other -extremity of the chain on the raft to two blocks of immense size -and power, for the purpose of hoisting it up to its intended -station, the apex of the suspension pier on the Anglesea -side. When the blocks were made secure to the chain -(comprising 25 tons weight of iron), two capstans, and also, two -preventive capstans, commenced working, each capstan being -propelled by thirty-two men. To preserve an equal tenison -in the rotatory evolutions of the two principal capstans, two -fifers played several enlivening tunes, to keep the men regular -in their steps, for which purpose they had been previously -trained. At this critical and interesting juncture, the -attention of every one present seemed rivetted to the novel -spectacle: the chain rose majestically, and the gratifying sight -was enthusiastically enjoyed by all present in ‘breathless -silence!’ At ten minutes before five o’clock, -the final bolt was fixed, which completed the whole line of -chain, and the happy event was hailed by the hearty acclamations -of the spectators. Not the least accident, delay, or -failure, occurred in any department during the whole of the -operation. From the moving of the raft to the uniting of -the chain, only two hours and twenty-five minutes -transpired. Upon the completion of the chain, three of the -workmen passed along its upper surface, which forms a curvature -of 590 feet; the versed sine of the arch is 43 feet. The -sixteenth chain, completing the whole line of suspension, was -curried over on the 9th of July following.</p> -<p>“The general opening of the bridge took place on Monday, -January 30th, 1826. The royal London and Holyhead mail -coach, carrying the London mail-bag for Dublin, passed over at -one o’clock, <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> and the first -carriage that passed was that of Augustus Elliott Fuller, Esq., -one of the commissioners, drawn by four beautiful greys; the -first stage coach was the Pilot, a Bangor and Caernarvon day -coach; the first London stage coach was the Oxonian. These -were followed by the carriage of Sir David Erskine, Bart., late -proprietor of the ferry, drawn by four elegant greys, decorated -with ribbons, and by several gentlemen’s carriages, -landaus, gigs, cars, &c. and a long train of horsemen. -Numerous flags were flying; and cannons, stationed on each side -of the bridge, were discharged at intervals during the day.</p> -<p>“The dimensions of the bridge are as follows:—The -extreme length of the chain, from the fastenings in the rock, is -about 1715 feet; the height of the road-way from high water line, -is <a name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 36</span>100 -feet; each of the seven small piers from high water line to the -spring of the arches, is 65 feet; the span of each arch is -52½ feet. Each of the suspending piers is 53 feet -above the road; the roads on the bridge consist of two -carriage-ways of 12 feet each, with a foot-path of four feet in -the centre; the length of the suspended part of the road from -pier to pier is 553 feet; the carriage-road passes through two -arches in the suspending piers, of the width of 9 feet by 15 feet -in height to the spring of the arches. To counteract the -contraction and expansion of the iron from the effects of the -change of the atmosphere, a set of rollers are placed under -cast-iron saddles on the top of the suspending piers where the -chains rest; the vertical rods an inch square, suspended from the -chains, support the sleepers for the flooring of the road-way, -the rods being placed 5 feet from each other. The chains, -sixteen in number, consist of five bars each; length of the bars -10 feet, width 3 inches by 1 inch, with six connecting lengths at -each joint, 1 foot 4 inches by 8 inches, and 1 inch thick, -secured by two bolts at each joint, each bolt weighing about 50 -pounds; and the total number of the bars in the cross-section of -the chain is 80. The total weight of iron-work is 4,373,281 -pounds.”</p> -<p>The pen and pencil of genius have frequently been employed to -delineate the Menai Bridge, and whatever difference of taste may -have prevailed in determining the character of the various -sketches, all writers have been unanimous in their admiration of -the intellect which could devise, and the skill which could erect -this magnificent and astonishing structure. The approach by -water has been thus described:—“When, on entering the -straits, the bridge is first seen suspended as it were in mid -air, and confining the view of the fertile and richly wooded -shores, it seems more like a light ornament than a massy bridge, -and shews little of the strength and solidity which it really -possesses. But as we approached it nearer, whilst it still -retained its light and elegant appearance, the stupendous size -and immensity of the work struck us with awe; and when we saw -that a brig, with every stick standing, had just passed under -it—that a coach going over it appeared not larger than a -child’s toy—and that foot passengers upon it looked -like pigmies, the vastness of its proportions was by contrast -fully apparent.”</p> -<p>Another tourist gives the subjoined outline, while surveying -the attractive object on the spot:—“Having landed by -means of boats on the Anglesea side, we proceeded to the bridge, -<a name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 37</span>the -visiting of which is a new era in the lives of those who have not -before had that pleasure, and is a renewed luxury to those who -have seen it again and again. Our party walked over the -bridge slowly, because there was something to be admired at every -step;—the effect of a passing carriage; the vibration -caused even by a hand applied to the suspending rods; the depth -to the level of the water; the fine view of the straits in both -directions; the lofty pillar erected in honour of the Marquis of -Anglesea; the diminutive appearance of persons on the shore; the -excellence and strength of the workmanship; the beauty of the -arches over the road through the suspension piers, and the echo -in them; all conspired to delight and to detain us. Many of -our party then went down the steep bank to the foot of the -bridge, from which point, certainly, the best view is to be had -of the whole structure, inasmuch as by being in contact, as it -were, with its proportions on <i>terra firma</i>, a better idea -can be formed of its real, and indeed wonderful dimensions. -We actually lingered about the spot careless of time, or of aught -but the scene we were contemplating.”</p> -<p>From the Suspension Bridge to Beaumaris, the road is -exquisitely beautiful: it follows the line of the winding and -indented shore of the Menai: now commanding an extensive view of -the noble bay, and its lofty encircling mountains—now -entering the woods of Baron Hill, scarcely protected from the -precipice, the base of which is washed by the waves, which are -heard chafing against the rock below—again it emerges from -the woods, and the whole glorious panorama bursts on the sight: -the beautiful town of Beaumaris lying at your feet, whilst the -Ormeshead, Penmaen Mawr, the Nant Francon mountains, and the more -distant range of Snowdonia, with Penrhyn Castle and Bangor, -terminating with nature’s great rival, the Bridge, form a -prospect of remarkable beauty and sublimity.</p> -<p>The Menai Straits, which separate Anglesea from the main land, -although bearing the appearance of a river, are formed by an arm -of the sea; the navigation of which is peculiarly dangerous at -particular times of the tide, and in stormy weather. At -each extremity, during the flood, it has a double current, from -the concussion of which, termed Pwll Ceris, it is perilous to -encounter it; and so tremendous are the storms with which the -straits are occasionally disturbed, that before the erection of -the Menai Bridge, a tempestuous day has been sufficient to -suspend <a name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -38</span>the intercourse of England with Ireland, the high road -to which, <i>via</i> Holyhead, lies through Anglesea. -Within the range of the coast, a distance of about fifteen miles, -there are six ferries; the first of which, to the south, is -Aber-Menai, nearly opposite Caernarvon, and the sixth, and widest -at high water, is between the village of Aber and Beaumaris.</p> -<p>Nicholson, in his Cambrian Guide, says, “There appears -but little doubt of Anglesea having been once connected with the -main land, as evident traces of an isthmus are discernible near -Porthaethwy ferry; where a dangerous line of rocks nearly crosses -the channel, and causes such eddies at the first flowing of the -tide, that the contending currents of the Menai seem here to -struggle for superiority. This isthmus once destroyed, and -a channel formed, it has been the work of ages, by the force of -spring tides and storms, gradually to deepen and enlarge the -opening.” In support of this hypothesis, the author -of Beaumaris Bay quotes the following historical -facts:—“In the year 61, the Roman infantry, under -Suetonius, crossed the Menai on a bridge of boats, to -Pant-yr-Ysgraffiau (the inlet of the skiffs) under Porthamael, -while the cavalry forded it below Llanidan. Edward the -First also crossed the strait in the same manner at Moel-y-don, -but suffered severely from an unfortunate attack, on the return -of the tide; several of his leading warriors now lying in the -chapel of the Friary, near Beaumaris.”</p> -<h4>Railway Bridge across the Menai.</h4> -<p>In the original prospectus for the construction of the Chester -and Holyhead railway, it was proposed to carry the line across -the suspension bridge which has just been described; the engines -to be detached from the trains at each end of the bridge, and the -carriages to be conveyed over by horses. The government -very properly objected to an arrangement which would have been in -all respects a great public inconvenience. It was then -proposed to cross the Straits in the vicinity of the Britannia -rock, a little to the southward of the suspension bridge, by a -bridge of two cast-iron arches supported on piers of -masonry. This project was opposed by the trustees of the -Caernarvon harbour, as a dangerous interference with the free -navigation of the Straits, which had always been of a difficult -and intricate character. A long and anxious investigation -of this matter ended in a proposal by Mr. Robert Stephenson, the -eminent engineer to the <a name="page39"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 39</span>railway company, to construct a mode -of transit, which should be perfectly unobjectionable. In -May, 1845, that gentleman explained to a committee of the House -of Commons, to whom the Chester and Holyhead Railway Bill had -been referred, that the engineers sent down by the Board of -Admiralty to Bangor having reported that the proposed two-arched -bridge would be injurious to the navigation, and recommended one -of a much greater width, and of a flat surface, without any arch; -he (Mr. Stephenson) had been under the necessity of preparing -himself to carry out those suggestions. He was apprehensive -that owing to the expansion and contraction of iron, in a -position where the ends, as in an arch, are jammed down on -immovable piers of masonry, the fabric of an iron arch of such -great width might not be free from danger; and a suspension -bridge would not be safely available as a railway for locomotive -engines. He had therefore come to the conclusion, that a -tube or tunnel, of wrought iron, large enough for the passage of -trains, would be the most feasible plan, embracing safety for the -navigation, and creating no delay to the transit of the railway -carriages over the straits. The tube would be 900 feet in -length, supported at the centre in a pier of masonry, about 100 -feet high, erected on the Britannia rock. The ends would -not be jammed, as in the case of an arch, but left free, so as to -admit of expansion in the metal arising from the change of -temperature. The practicability and safety of this novelty -in engineering science, were attested by several witnesses of -competent skill and ability; and the plan was ultimately -sanctioned by Parliament. The pier of masonry to be erected -on the Britannia rock, which lies about mid-way across the -stream, is to have four sides, each of 50 feet width; the -water-way on each side of the pier to be 450 feet wide; the -height and shape of the Menai suspension bridge to be maintained -in the construction of the proposed tunnel, with the same clear -headway for the free passage of vessels navigating the -straits. At a meeting of the Chester and Holyhead Railway -Company, in August 1845, the report presented by the board of -management contained the following passages:—</p> -<blockquote><p>“With reference to the magnitude, as well as -the novelty of the work, your directors deemed it essential that -the plan of crossing the Menai Straits, proposed by Mr. -Stephenson, the company’s engineer, should be subjected to -the test of experiments. Those experiments have been in -progress for some <a name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -40</span>time, and are now nearly completed. The results as -at present shewn are extremely satisfactory, confirming most -strongly the soundness of the principle, and giving the most -perfect confidence to your directors, with regard to the proposed -stupendous structure, that its erection will be easy, and that -its security will be complete and lasting. So satisfied is -Mr. Stephenson with the comparative strength, durability, and -economy of this new method of bridge-building, that he purposes -adopting it also for the crossing of the river at -Conway.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>In the spring of 1846, contracts for the erection of this -novel bridge over the Menai were entered into; the works are now -in progress; and this singular triumph of engineering skill will -afford another extraordinary instance of the achievements of -railway enterprise; and add another to the many wonders of nature -and art, which abound throughout this attractive district of the -Principality.</p> -<h4>Penrhyn Castle,</h4> -<p>The magnificent seat of the Hon. E. Douglas Pennant, M.P. for -Caernarvonshire, is within an easy walk of Bangor. The -present castle is said to have been built on the site of a palace -of Roderic Molwynog, prince of Wales, who began his reign in 720, -and long continued in possession of the Welsh sovereigns. -This ancient demesne has been a favourite subject of the British -muse from the earliest times.</p> -<blockquote><p>Abode of native chiefs, of bards the theme,<br /> -Here princely Penrhyn soars above the stream,<br /> -And phœnix-like, in rising splendour drest,<br /> -Shews on its wide domain a regal crest;<br /> -Here Cambria opes her tomes of other days,<br /> -And with maternal pride, the page displays—<br /> -Dwells on the glorious list, and loves to trace<br /> -From Britain’s genuine kings—her noblest race.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The estate came into the family of Pennant, partly by the -purchase of the late Lord Penrhyn’s father (John Pennant, -Esq.), and partly by his own marriage with Anne Susannah, -daughter and sole heiress of the late-General Warburton, of -Winnington, in Cheshire. By this matrimonial compact, the -two moieties, which had for some time been divided, became -united: and his lordship having no issue, the immense estates -devolved upon the late George Hay Dawkins Pennant, Esq., whose -daughter married the present respected possessor. The lady -with whose hand so wealthy a dowry was bestowed, died <a -name="page41"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 41</span>in the year -1842, and in January, 1846, the Hon. E. D. Pennant married Lady -Louisa Fitzroy, the accomplished daughter of the Duke and Duchess -of Grafton. Lord Penrhyn made very considerable alterations -in the mansion; and his immediate successor, whose public spirit -well accorded with that of his lordship, and whose generous -munificence endeared him to the surrounding district, was long -engaged in rebuilding it, in a magnificent style, so as to render -it one of the most complete edifices in the kingdom. It is -erected in the boldest style of castellated architecture, of Mona -marble, and displays a magnificent range of buildings, crowned -with lofty towers, of which five are circular; the keep, and -another of the principal towers are square, with angular -turrets. The internal decorations correspond with the -grandeur of the exterior; the mantle-pieces and other ornaments -being made of Mona marble, which admits of a very high polish: -the furniture is also extremely elegant. The situation is -most picturesque and imposing, and commands a glorious, -extensive, and diversified prospect of marine and mountain -scenery. There are several lodges forming entrances to the -park, all elegant in their design, and lofty in their elevation; -the principal one, which is near the junction of the London and -Chester roads, being a stately and beautiful specimen of the -architecture of the whole. A grand massive substantial -gateway, on a corresponding plan, has been completed; together -with a handsome park wall, thirteen feet high, and seven miles in -circuit.</p> -<p>There is an elegant chapel near the castle, for the -accommodation of the family; and on the beach are handsome and -commodious hot and cold baths. The stables are upon a noble -and extensive scale. The building has a handsome -façade, fronted with patent slate, and the pilasters which -divide the stalls, as well as the mangers, are of the same -material. Indeed, this very valuable article appears to be -converted, on the Penrhyn demesne, to every possible use. -The park is fenced with narrow upright slate slabs, cut in -imitation of palisadoes, and fixed by pins to oaken railings, -which find their support in posts formed of cubic slate.</p> -<p>In this mansion is still preserved a hirlas, or drinking horn -of the hero, Piers Gruffydd, perhaps the only elegant specimen of -that kind of utensil, elucidatory of ancient manners, at present -existing. It is a large bugle, of an ox’s horn, -ornamented with enchased silver, and suspended by a chain of the -same <a name="page42"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -42</span>metal, having the initials of his own name and family -engraved at the end. Piers Gruffydd owned Penrhyn estate in -the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and joined the fleet of Sir Francis -Drake, in a vessel which he purchased and equipped at his own -cost. He was afterwards in the gallant action with the -Spanish Armada. In the royal court of Cambria, there were -legally three sorts of horns for the purpose of public or private -libations. The first was <i>y corn ydd yuo y brenin</i>, or -the one solely appropriated to the king’s use; second, -<i>corn cyweithas</i>, by which the domestics of the palace were -summoned to duty; and third, corn <i>y pencynydd</i>, committed -to the custody of the chief huntsman. On grand occasions, -the domestics of the palace were permitted to drink out of the -sovereign’s horn; and the chamberlain or high steward, on -such occasions, furnished handsome potations of the generous -metheglin. The contents of the horn at these times assumed -the name of the sacred potion, similar to the <i>wassail</i> -bowl, or the apostle’s cup, in use among the Saxons. -Ulphus, when he conveyed certain lands to the church at York, is -said to have quaffed off the contents of such a vessel, drinking -a health, <i>Deo et sancto Petro</i> (to God and St. -Peter). On festive days, the imperative custom was to empty -the horn at one tip, and instantly blow it, as a testimony that -it had been thoroughly drained.</p> -<p>The improvements made by the late Lord Penrhyn in this very -interesting parish and its flourishing neighbourhood were most -comprehensive and important. The aspect of the country has, -in fact, been thoroughly changed; and profitable employment found -for thousands of the working population. About forty years -ago, this part of the country bore a most wild, barren, and -neglected appearance; but it is now covered with handsome villas, -well-built farm-houses, neat cottages, rich meadows, -well-cultivated fields, and flourishing plantations; bridges have -been built, new roads made, bogs and swampy grounds drained and -cultivated, neat fences raised, and barren rocks covered with -woods.</p> -<h4>Slate Quarries.</h4> -<p>The slate quarries at Cae Braich-y-Cefn (about six from -Bangor), in the vicinity of Nant Francon, the most considerable -in Wales, are the property of the family of Penrhyn Castle. -The rock has been opened at vast expense, and the quarries are -worked with great judgment and enterprise. There <a -name="page43"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 43</span>are more than -2000 persons continually employed; and it is computed that about -two hundred tons of slates are daily conveyed down to Port -Penrhyn, whence they are exported to various parts of the -kingdom, to Ireland, and to America. These quarries were -discovered so far back as the time of Queen Elizabeth. In -1740 the slates were all of one size, and very small. But -when Lord Penrhyn took the quarries into his own hands, about -1782, his lordship cleared the rubbish, which had been -accumulating for ages, and opened these quarries in a judicious -and scientific manner. His lordship also constructed an -iron railway from the quarries to Port Penrhyn, a distance of six -miles, which is said to have cost £170,000. The -weekly wages now paid to the workmen engaged in these quarries -amount to about £1700.</p> -<p>On the arrival of a visitor, he should, if possible, obtain -permission to accompany one of the overlookers of the works in -his round, rather than trust to the casual guidance of any idler -who may be found lurking about with the intention to profer -assistance; as the sole object of the latter is to procure -payment, without giving himself much trouble in pointing out the -wonders of the place. Should he be successful, the -intelligent and communicative spirit of his guide will amply -repay the difficulty he may have experienced in finding him.</p> -<p>He will be conducted to every ledge of the mountain, up an -inclined plane, till he reaches the summit, and will have an -opportunity of seeing the whole process of the slate -manufacture. In one place he will discover the workmen -aloft, suspended by ropes against the precipitous side of the -rock, busily employed in splitting down every projecting shelf of -the blue steganium; in another, persons employed in the laborious -occupation of boring for the purpose of filling the orifice with -gunpowder, to rend the rock from the immense mass to which it is -attached; others occupied in removing the rubbish, of which so -many years’ labour has produced a wonderful accumulation; -and numbers in splitting the detached masses, and cutting them -into a variety of sizes, denominated duchesses, countesses, -ladies, &c. which names were bestowed by General Warburton -about the year 1765. This process is executed with -astonishing rapidity. Then may be heard the alarum shout, -betokening that a fusee is lighted and will soon explode, warning -those employed in the vicinity to secure themselves from danger; -and in a few moments, the explosion itself rattles through the -extensive <a name="page44"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -44</span>levels with terrific grandeur. It cannot be -expected that accidents amongst the workmen are of rare -occurrence; on the contrary, they too frequently happen, for -scarce a week passes without some poor fellows meeting with -severe bodily injury; but this is solely attributed to their own -negligence of the proper precaution.</p> -<p>Portions of the mountain are farmed by individuals, who pay a -price consonant with the value or quality of the substratum, and -employ workmen to remove and fit it for exportation; when they -receive so much per thousand, in the same ratio, for their -labour. There is a strong spring of water at the top of the -mountain, which is conveyed by a large wooden pipe to the bottom, -and there rendered serviceable in turning an immense cutting -mill. A few hundred yards distant, also, are several mills -of this description, where large pieces of rock are cut into -grave-stones, and into the requisite sizes for roofing houses, -and for the use of schools, &c.</p> -<p>St. Ann’s chapel, near the quarries, was erected and -liberally endowed by the late Lord Penrhyn; and Lady Penrhyn left -a sum for an organ, and a suitable stipend for the -organist.—Within a short distance of the slate quarries is -the charming cottage of the late Lady Penrhyn, called</p> -<h4>Ogwen Bank.</h4> -<p>It is now used by Mr. Pennant’s family as an occasional -resort on paying a morning visit to the quarries, or other -objects of curiosity in the neighbourhood. The style is -florid Gothic, and shows great taste in the design. The -centre contains an elegant room, the front of it forming a -segment of a circle; the wings contain a coach house and -stabling. Over the river Ogwen is a bridge corresponding -with the architecture of the house. This beautiful cottage -is hid from the road by the trees and plantation; Llwyd calls it -“the Eden of the Mountains.”</p> -<p>Before quitting this remarkably interesting vicinity, we take -leave to quote the following description from the graphic pen of -Miss Costello:—</p> -<blockquote><p>“From Bangor the lofty towers and turrets of -Penrhyn Castle are conspicuous in the scenery, and have a very -grand and imposing appearance, more so than any modern erection -of the kind I ever saw. The building stands on a commanding -height, and from its elevation has a magnificent view of -Beaumaris <a name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -45</span>Bay, and all the wide sweep of the sea, Puffin or -Priestholm Island and a great part of Anglesea, the fine bold -rock of the Great Orme’s Head, said to have once been -dedicated to Serpent worship, and the range of the -Caernarvonshire mountains.</p> -<p>“So stately, so massive, and so stupendous is this -castle, that it scarcely seems the work of a modern architect; -and if there had been more simplicity observed in its -construction, it might well pass for a genuine Roman -castle. The enormous profusion of ornament with which the -doors, windows, staircases, halls, and ceilings are covered, -betray the effort made to render that complete which would have -been more so with less pains. The involved pillars, the -redundant zigzags, the countless grotesque heads, of all sizes, -grinning from all heights, the groves of slender columns, the -circular arches, the semi-pointed arcades, form a maze of -architecture such as never could have before, in any age, -appeared on one spot.</p> -<p>“To wander through the wondrous halls of Penrhyn is like -struggling along in a bewildered dream, occasioned by having -studied some elaborate work on the early buildings of the Saxons -and Normans. The eyes are dazzled and the mind confused -with the quick succession of astonishing forms; but the result is -rather wonder at the imagination or close copying of the artist, -and at the enormous wealth which could repay such an exertion of -skill, than admiration of the beauty created. Mona marble -and fine stone furnish materials for all these sculptured -treasures, and slate enters into much of the adornment; for close -by are the famous slate-quarries, which have produced the -enormous sums expended on this erection. In order to shew -what can be done with slate, various articles of furniture are -placed in the rooms occupying the places usually filled by carved -wood and marble; chimney-pieces and tables of polished slate are -seen, but the great triumph is a bedstead, beautifully carved, -which, though far from elegant, is yet exceedingly curious.</p> -<p>“The library and drawing-rooms are very fine, and have -even a comfortable appearance: all the house is gorgeously -decorated, and all its laboured splendour announces such immense -riches, that it seems as though the gnomes who work gold and -silver in the neighbouring hills had all been made slaves of some -potent lamp or ring, and had worked incessantly for years in the -construction and adornment of the most gigantic mass of -architecture that ever was beheld. There are, however, very -<a name="page46"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 46</span>few -specimens of the higher order of art; a few portraits are to be -found in one room, which are curious. In particular I was -struck with a likeness of the celebrated Anne Clifford, of -Cumberland, when a child: she is dressed in a stiff black dress, -all over buttons and ornaments, and from under her arm peeps a -hideous little dog. As, in her memoirs, she dwells a good -deal on her own beauty, one cannot but smile at this comment on -her vanity, for, unless the artist did her great injustice, she -must have been a singularly ugly child. Two portraits of -the Countess of Derby are remarkable: one has a child’s -doll lying on a table near her, and in the other she is -represented holding a feather fan, and covered and half smothered -with elaborate ruffs which seem to bristle up in every part of -her attire.</p> -<p>“The famous hirlas horn, belonging to an ancient -Cambrian prince, the treasure of the castle, we had not an -opportunity of seeing, as we found it was carefully locked up -from public view. It held the same place as the Saxon -wassail bowl, and it was customary that those who had the honour -of drinking from it should empty the horn at one draught, and -then blow it, to prove that they had performed the feat expected -of them. One of the most picturesque objects on the way to -the famous slate quarries, is the little mill of Coet Mor, whose -wheel is turned by a rushing stream breaking wildly over heaps of -rocks.</p> -<p>“The slate quarries of Penrhyn are situated near Nant -Ffrancon, at a spot called Cae Braich-y-Cefn, and are exceedingly -curious, and even picturesque. We were conducted over them -by a very loquacious Irishman, the only person of his nation -employed in the works, all the others being Welsh.</p> -<p>“Most of these places, where enormous labour produces -enormous wealth, are to me displeasing to contemplate; but there -is nothing here that conveys an idea of over-tasked workmen, no -horrible underground toil and dark dungeon-like caves, where -human creatures are condemned, like souls in penance for some -hideous crime, to drag heavy weights and chains through frightful -chasms, and delve and dig for ore in spaces not large enough for -them to stand upright; here are no deadly vapours, no fatal gases -mortal to humanity, all is wide and open in the pure light of -day, high, and broad, and healthy. The mountain is cut into -ridges of slate, and here and there the projecting edges have -formed themselves into graceful shapes: in the very centre of the -quarry rises a beautiful conical pillar of slate which the -admiration of the workmen has spared, now <a -name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 47</span>that their -labours have brought it to the shape which it bears. It is -a great ornament to the area, and it is to be regretted that in -time it must fall, as the slate of which it is composed happens -to be of the purest kind. The huts of the workmen scattered -over the quarry have a singular effect, and the wild aspect of -the men accords well with their abodes. The thundering -sound produced by the occasional blasting of the rock is very -grand, as it rolls and echoes amongst the caves, and along the -heights; and the grey masses glowing in the sun, and reflecting -the sky through their rents, have an imposing aspect.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>In July, 1844, the King of Saxony made a tour through England -and Wales; a narrative of which, written by His Majesty’s -Physician, Dr. Carus, has been published in the present year -(1846). From that journal of the royal travels, we extract -the subjoined passages—which may serve to show the -impressions made upon the mind of an intelligent though somewhat -prejudiced foreigner, by the more striking objects of interest in -this locality.</p> -<blockquote><p>“As the road approaches Bangor, it runs near -the sea, and brings us close to the end of one of the most -extraordinary structures of modern times—the vast iron -suspension bridge which forms the junction between the mainland -and the island, universally known and celebrated as the Menai -Bridge.</p> -<p>“The drivers were ordered to stop, and we dismounted, in -order to pass over and examine this splendid work, and endeavour -to gain as accurate an idea as possible of its nature and -size. The coasts of Wales and Anglesea at both sides of the -strait, are rocky, and about 100 feet high, and the breadth of -the channel by which they are separated, is about 1600 -feet. The object was to connect the two coasts by a bridge, -and it has been fully attained. Two very stout columns of -solid masonry are built in the water, one on each side, over the -summits of which are stretched the immense chains, from which the -bridge itself is suspended. The channel between the columns -is about 600 feet wide, and over this stretches the horizontal -line of the road-way, which is supported and made fast by means -of about 800 strong iron rods. Each of the sixteen chains -which constitute the suspending power, is stated to be 1714 feet -long, and consists of large massive links, joined and bound -together by strong iron bolts. These chains pass over the -tops of the supporting columns, on moveable iron <a -name="page48"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 48</span>rollers of -great strength, and are thus in a condition readily to -accommodate themselves to the changes of temperature, without -risk. The greatest difference in length between the -strongest summer heat and most intense winter cold, is said to -amount to sixteen inches. The work was begun under the -direction of Mr. Telford, in the year 1819, and finished in -1826. Such is the general idea of the whole -structure. When seen from the side, it is very difficult -immediately to form a notion of the magnitude of the work; and -besides, the simplicity of the outline gives at first an -impression of very moderate extent. The feeling is very -much the same as that with which strangers are impressed on the -first view of St. Peter’s in Rome. They find it -extremely difficult to believe that a structure of such magnitude -is before them. And as the banks on both sides are very -uniform, it requires to be compared with some other -object—such as that of a large ship sailing through -beneath, in order to gain a correct notion of its real -magnitude. On viewing the bridge, and passing over it, -through its long uniform alleys of ever-recurring iron rods, -another observation forced itself upon my mind. This -immense work, which in all its parts is regulated by the -principle of utility, is totally deficient in all the charms of -beauty. It cuts the landscape like a black uniform line, -concave on one side, and perfectly horizontal on the other; and -when viewed closely, the columns by which the bridge is -supported, are wholly destitute of every description of -architectural or sculptural ornament. Those perpetually -recurring iron rods, which follow one another in monotonous rows, -only serve to suggest the feeling of despair to which a painter -must be reduced in any attempt to delineate the structure, and to -give any thing like an accurate drawing of this tedious iron -lattice-road. True, it may be very difficult to combine the -demands of taste with the strict principles of utility in such an -undertaking, where the grand object is strength. There is, -properly speaking, a genuine English, dry, pedantic character -usually exhibited in such structures as this. And, after -all, what style should art here apply in order to introduce the -charms of beauty into a work of this character? Neither the -Egyptian nor Grecian style is at all appropriate to works in -iron—the Gothic is quite as little applicable to such a -purpose—and I have already remarked that in addition to -these three, there can be as little pretension to introduce a -fourth, really distinct from them, as to add a new kingdom to <a -name="page49"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 49</span>those of the -recognised mineral, animal, and vegetable ones. This makes -the task of the architect a very difficult one to -accomplish. It is for them to see how the difficulty is to -be met.</p> -<p>“Having passed over the bridge to the Anglesea side, we -descended to the shore, and took a boat, in order to have a view -of this immense structure from beneath. By far the clearest -idea of the vastness of the work is thus obtained, by viewing it -from the green sea, which flows beneath with a gentle southerly -current; the true magnitude and proportions of the bridge are -then most deeply impressed upon the mind; but even here, no idea -of beauty is suggested. Other bridges, with their various -arches and ornamental buttresses, may, and frequently do present -objects of great beauty to the eye. This, however, is, and -must always remain, a great <i>mathematical figure</i>.</p> -<p>“After having thus examined the bridge from all parts of -the river, we descended into the vast cavern on the Anglesea -side, in which the ends of the chains are made fast in the rocks -far under ground. The whole is planned with great ingenuity -and skill. The rock, which forms the resisting power, is -armed, as it were, with huge masses of iron, containing deep -mortices, into which the bolts that bind the ends of the chains -are made fast.</p> -<p>“In this manner, therefore, the sixteen powerful chains -are fastened in the deep rocks on both sides of the strait; and -assuredly, no human power or weight can be well conceived -sufficient to tear them from the depth in which they are -anchored. Even the long Macadamized bridge itself presents -such a degree of stability, as to be very little moved by the -carriages which pass over its surface.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p style="text-align: center">* * * *</p> -<blockquote><p>“On the morning of the 13th, (July, 1844,) -the birthday of my dear mother, I enjoyed a beautiful view of the -little port of Bangor, from the garden terrace of the hotel, from -which a view is obtained of the northern opening of the Menai -Strait, of the bay of Beaumaris, and the more distant mountains -of Wales. The weather, too, was tolerably fine in the -morning; but at the time of our departure it had become cloudy, -and it was raining hard when we arrived at the remarkable and -extensive Penrhyn slate quarries, which are of great importance -to the whole of Wales. They are situated about six miles to -the N.E. of Bangor, on the slope of the hill, and have been <a -name="page50"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 50</span>particularly -rich and productive for the last fifty years. When one -arrives at this quarry from below, it presents the appearance -almost of a crater open towards the front, along the lips of -which, twelve or fourteen terraces run, one above another, each -of which is from forty-five to fifty feet high, and upon which -the works of blasting and digging are carried on by about 2000 -workmen. The stone is of a reddish-brown; sometimes, also, -greyish slate, of fine grain, which splits well into plates, and -takes a fine polish. The mass never contains organic -remains, but is frequently traversed by strata of quarry or -limestone, in which crystals of some metals, principally copper -and iron, occur.</p> -<p>“The manner in which these quarries are worked is the -following. On the galleries, or terraces, large masses of -slate are first detached by means of powder, and then roughly -hewn into shape. There are laid along each of these -terraces tram-roads formed of rails loosely laid down, upon which -the masses of slate, in waggons with suitable wheels, are thrust -along by men to the little houses situated on the declivity of -the mountain, at the extremities of the galleries. Here -they are split into smaller plates; and it is curious to observe -how regularly the slate splits into fine and still finer plates, -down to the thickness of three or four lines. Several -pieces are allowed to retain a thickness of an inch or an inch -and a half, and are used for tables and flagstones, the thinner -ones for covering roofs, &c. The manner, too, in which -they are squared, being cut out at once by a sort of hatchet, -according to a line made by means of a ruler, is very -curious. The plates thus formed are distinguished by very -amusing names. Thus the largest are called <i>queens</i>, -the next <i>princesses</i>, then <i>duchesses</i>, <i>ladies</i>, -and so on. The enormous quantity of slate produced may be -estimated from the facts, that a railway has been constructed -specially from these quarries to Penrhyn harbour, at an expense -of £170,000, which <i>every week</i> takes down between 500 -and 600 tons, or about 12,000 cwt. of slate; and that the yearly -net produce has sometimes brought in as much as £60,000 to -the owner of the quarry, the Hon. Douglas Pennant.</p> -<p>“The quarrying itself is attended with considerable -danger. The workmen, when a portion of the rock is to be -blasted from the upper part of a gallery, are obliged to bore the -hole, suspended in mid-air by ropes, to load the hole so bored, -to set fire to the match, and then to place themselves beyond the -<a name="page51"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 51</span>reach of -the explosion. They are also exposed to the chance of -accidents from the falling of portions of the sharp slate; and it -was carious, even yesterday—on which, being pay-day, the -work was not regularly going on—to hear now and then the -explosion of the blasting of some part of the rock, at the same -time that it was almost difficult to pass along the galleries, -without falling over the little railways or some of the sharp -pieces of stone. The manner in which Queen Victoria was -received here, on her visit some years ago, must have produced a -curious effect. As soon as she arrived, 1300 explosions -were heard from all parts of the quarry, having been all -previously prepared for this purpose. After having (the -greater part of the time in the rain) inspected all the parts of -this immense quarry, and, besides, a saw-mill, for cutting up the -thicker plates of the slate, we returned towards Bangor, and -visited Penrhyn Castle, the property of the Hon. D. -Pennant. In olden times, a castle belonging to Roderic -Molwynog, grandson of Cadwallader, stood on this spot. It -was rebuilt in the time of Henry the Sixth, and has been quite -lately renewed (under the direction of a London architect, of the -name of Hopper) by the father-in-law of the present -possessor. It is a remarkable and splendid building, such -as could only be completed with a revenue like that proceeding -from the quarries.</p> -<p>“On entering the park, the castle is seen on a wooded -height, grey, like Windsor, with large towers and high turrets, -without any apparent roof, quite like an old fortress. -Through the castle-gate we entered the court-yard, ornamented in -the Norman style: but this style is much more splendidly and -grandly exhibited in the entrance-hall, from whence staircases -conduct to the upper rooms. Every thing here is in the -Saxon style of building; the columns with their curious -ornaments, and the upper parts covered with arabesques. -Tall stone candelabra and a splendid chimney-piece, all in the -same style, increase the magnificent appearance of the hall; the -windows with their round arches are filled with stained glass; -the staircase winds over arches supported on columns, and beside -Norman statues; in a word, the whole sight is grand and -imposing. The internal arrangements of the whole place, the -drawing and dining rooms, the library, the bed-rooms, are all on -a similar scale of magnificence; several wainscotted with -beautiful carved oak: the furniture and beds all harmonising with -the prevailing style of the building. We remarked a curious -object in the <a name="page52"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -52</span>state bed-room (almost all such castles appear to have -such a state room, with a bed in it); namely, a bed, of which the -whole of the bedstead and the posts which supported the canopy -were made of the finest black slate, beautifully polished and -manufactured. This reference to the principal foundation of -the wealth of the possessor, appeared to me to show his gratitude -rather than his taste. It may easily be supposed, however, -that other curious objects were to be seen here; among these, we -were shewn one of those curious drinking horns, formerly general -in this district, as also in Scandinavia. I was sorry that -we entirely lost the view from the continued rain; for this view, -both towards the sea and towards the mountains, must be of a very -splendid description.”</p> -</blockquote> -<h3>BANGOR IS-Y-COED,<br /> -(<i>Flintshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">13</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ellesmere</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holt</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Overton</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Whitchurch</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Wrexham</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Bangor Is-y-coed stands in a detached part of the country, on -the banks of the Dee, over which is a good stone bridge of five -arches, from the vicinity of which a beautiful landscape is -presented. This place is celebrated as the site of the most -ancient monastery in Britain, founded, as old writers assert, by -Lucius, the son of Coel, and first Christian king of Britain, -prior to the year 180. Lucius formed it into a university, -for the increase of learning, and the preservation of the -Christian faith in this realm; and it produced many learned men -even in that early age. At the arrival of Augustine about -596, on a mission from Pope Gregory I. to convert the English -Saxons to Christianity, this monastery appears to have been in a -very flourishing state. The monks at Bangor were -independent of the Romish church; and in a conference between St. -Augustine and its governors, the imperious missionary demanded of -them that they should keep the feast of Easter at the same time -that the Papists did; that they should administer baptism -according to the ceremonies of the church of Rome; and -“preach the word of life with him and his -fellows.” In other things, he said, they would be -allowed to retain their ancient customs, insolently concluding, -that “if they would not accept of peace with their -brethren, they should receive war from their -enemies.” They <a name="page53"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 53</span>refused obedience to his injunctions, -and resolutely maintained the original rites of their -church. Shortly after this period followed the dreadful -massacre of the monks of Bangor.</p> -<p>Not long after this event, the monastery became neglected, and -went entirely to decay. William of Malmsbury, who lived -shortly after the Norman conquest, asserts, that even in his -time, there remained only some relics of its ancient -magnificence: there were, he says, so many ruined churches and -such immense heaps of rubbish, as were not elsewhere to be -found. Leland says of it, in the time of Henry the Seventh, -that its site was in a fertile valley on the south side of the -Dee; but that the river having since changed its course, then ran -through the middle of the ground on which it stood. The -extent of its walls, he affirms, was equal to that of the walls -round a town; and the two gates, the names of which had been -handed down by tradition, had been half a mile asunder. -Within the memory of persons then living, the bones of the monks, -and pieces of their clothes, had been ploughed up, in the -cultivation of the ground.</p> -<h3>BARMOUTH <span class="GutSmall">OR</span> ABERMAW,<br /> -(<i>Merionethshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Aberdovey</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dolgelley</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Harlech</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">225</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Towyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>The town of Barmouth is seated near the bottom of some high -mountains, many of the houses being built on the steep sides; and -viewed from the sea, it resembles a fortress of some strength, -hanging immediately over the sands. The town stands near to -the sea, at the mouth of the Maw or Mawddach, and takes its name -of Barmouth, i.e. Abermaw or Mawddach, from that -circumstance. At high water, the tide here forms a bay -above a mile over, but the entrance is rather hazardous, on -account of the sand-banks. This is the only port of -Merionethshire, but its commerce is not very extensive. The -chief manufactures are flannels and woollen stockings; and of -these Mr. Pennant observed sixty years ago, that £40,000 -worth of the former have been exported in a year, and -£10,000 worth of stockings.</p> -<p>The parish church is distant about a mile and a half from the -town, but in 1830 a chapel of ease was opened here for Divine -service, which is principally performed in English. A <a -name="page54"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 54</span>national -school has recently been erected at the outskirts of the town, on -the Harlech road, from an excellent design by Mr. Jones, of -Chester. There are also chapels in the town occupied by the -Wesleyans, the Calvinists, and Independents.</p> -<p>The town is generally well filled with fashionable bathers in -the summer season, for whose convenience, accommodation, and -amusement, the inhabitants have made ample provision. There -are two excellent inns: the Cors-y-gedol Arms, where post chaises -and cars, as well as guides to Coder Idris, and the lakes and -waterfalls, may be obtained; and also the Commercial Inn, with -stabling and coach-houses. During the summer months, -stage-coaches leave and arrive every day in the week, except -Sunday, from different places, including Liverpool, Shrewsbury, -and Caernarvon. There is a mail every day to and from the -latter place, passing through Harlech, Tan-y-bwlch, Tremadoc, and -Beddgelert. A four-horse mail-coach between Chester and -Barmouth has lately commenced running daily. There are -several good shops; and for the accommodation of visitors, -circulating libraries have been established. Here, also, -are two baths, a billiard-room, and a bowling-green. The -lodging houses are excellent. The town, and the -turnpike-roads throughout the district, have lately been greatly -improved, and are still improving. The population is about -2000.</p> -<p>“The beach,” says Mr. Bingley, “is one of -the most delightful walks I ever beheld. The wide river -Mawddach winds among the mountains, forming many and elegant -promontories. These rise to great heights on each side, -some clad with wood, and others exhibiting their naked rocks, -scantily covered with purple heath. The summit of the lofty -Cader Idris is seen to rise above the other mountains, in the -back ground.” From Barmouth a delightful excursion -may be made along the banks of the Maw, or in a boat up the -river, for about eight miles. The beach also affords a -beautiful drive of six miles. From this place a projecting -causeway, called Sarn-Badric, runs 15 miles into the sea, which -tradition says, though her evidence alone is but slight -authority, once surrounded one hundred cities. The upper -part is perceptible at low water.</p> -<p>In the neighbourhood of Barmouth are several gentlemen’s -mansions and other pretty residences, of which Bryntirion, the -property of Charles Henry Harford, Esq., was the most beautiful: -it was destroyed by fire about the latter end of 1840, and has -not yet been rebuilt.</p> -<p><a name="page55"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 55</span>The -Rev. Mr. Newell, in his Scenery of Wales, observes that while at -Cors-y-gedol Arms, at Barmouth, he was introduced to a Welsh -harper, whose performance he did not seem much to admire. -Mr. Newell then adds, “It is a curious circumstance that we -owe Gray’s Bard to a Welsh harper—blind Parry, Sir W. -W. Wynn’s harper. In a letter from Cambridge, Gray -says:—‘Mr. Parry has been here, and scratched out -such ravishing blind harmony, such tones of a thousand years old, -with names enough to choke you, as have set all this learned body -a dancing, and inspired them with due respect for my old bard, -his countryman, whenever he shall appear. Mr. Parry, you -must know, has set my ode in motion again, and has brought it at -last to a conclusion.’”</p> -<p>The angling stations are, Arthog Chapel, three miles distant, -and Llyn Bodlyn, four miles from Barmouth; Llyn Irddin and Llyn -Geirw, near to the town; and Llyn Raithlyn, in the neighbourhood -of Traws-fynydd.</p> -<h3>BEAUMARIS,<br /> -(<i>Anglesea</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Amlwch</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">17</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bangor, by the bridge</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Conway</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holyhead</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">27</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London, by Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">258</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>— by Shrewsbury</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">243</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mona</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Snowdon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Beaumaris, a most respectable and well-built town, in -Anglesea, is a corporate borough, where the assizes for that -county are held. The town and liberties are included in the -parishes of Llandegvan and Llanvaes: the whole occupying a -district nearly semi-circular in form, and presenting to the -Menai a bold rocky cliff of three miles, and an indented beach of -more than two. This place, like many others on the Welsh -coast, has lately become a most fashionable resort for bathing -visitors, for which it is admirably adapted, the sands being firm -and the water clear. In 1805, hot baths were erected here, -and accommodations of the first class abound.</p> -<p>The church, formerly called “the Chauntry of our Lady of -Beaumaris,” is considered as a chapel of ease to -Llandegvan. It is situated on an eminence in the centre of -the town, and consists of a nave, isles, and chancel, covered -with lead, and embrasured; having a ring of six bells, a clock, -and an organ, all the gift of the late Lord Bulkeley. In -the chancel is a <a name="page56"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -56</span>beautiful monument of a knight and his lady, in white -alabaster, recumbent on an altar-tomb. Mr. Llwyd says, they -represent Sir Richard Bulkeley and his lady; the former was -appointed Chamberlain of North Wales, and was in great favour -with Queen Elizabeth. In the church, a white marble -monument, executed by Westmacott, in memory of the late Lord -Bulkeley, who died June 3, 1822, stands on the left side of the -altar: this beautiful piece of sculpture represents Faith -directing the view of the dejected widow towards the bust of her -husband and to heaven. Also a beautiful monument of a -female kneeling in an attitude of devotion, on a pedestal, by -Ternouth, to the memory of Charlotte Mary, first wife of Sir R. -B. W. Bulkeley, Bart., and daughter of Lord Dinorben. There -is likewise a tablet to the memory of David Hughes, erected in -1812, by some persons who had been educated in the Free School of -which he was the founder. There are also several other -monuments and tablets, but not possessing any peculiar -attraction. On a plain stone near the east entrance into -the church is the following quaint inscription to the memory of -Meredith Davies:—</p> -<blockquote><p>Who has been our parish clerk<br /> - Full one and thirty years, I say,<br /> -Must here, alas! lie in the dark<br /> - Bemoaned for ever and for aye.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Near to the church is the Free School, founded in 1603, by -David Hughes, Esq., who also endowed alms-houses for six poor -persons, to whom he granted annuities; the late Lord Bulkeley -added four to this number; they are situated about a mile from -the town, near the entrance of Baron Hill Park. Near the -castle are the shire hall, and other suitable offices, where the -assizes are held. The town-hall is a good building, -comprising the assembly-room and a suite of civic -apartments. A custom-house and a national school are also -included among the public institutions of Beaumaris.</p> -<p>The Williams Bulkeley Arms Hotel is a magnificent -establishment, and most admirably conducted. The Commercial -and Liverpool Arms Inns are also houses where good accommodation -may be had. The market-days are Wednesday and -Saturday. Population, 2299.</p> -<p>Beaumaris enjoys a most beautiful and sublime prospect, with -the distinguishing peculiarity, that the eye at the same time -rests on a noble expanse of the ocean, and an extensive <a -name="page57"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 57</span>range of some -of the loftiest mountains in Wales. A grander or more -interesting scene it is impossible to imagine. From the -spacious piece of ground called the Green, which, landward, is -enclosed by the hotel, a splendid range of houses called Victoria -Terrace, and the old Castle, this enchanting view is seen to the -best advantage; seaward, at full tide, it presents to the eye an -infinite variety, in numbers of trading vessels, yachts, and -smaller pleasure boats, constantly passing close to the beach, -whilst at low water the sands afford many delightful and -extensive drives.</p> -<blockquote><p>“Ever charming, ever new,<br /> -When will the landscape tire the view?”</p> -</blockquote> -<h4>The Castle.</h4> -<p>Beaumaris castle was the last of the three great fortresses -erected by Edward the First, to hold in awe his new and unwilling -subjects on both sides the Menai. For this purpose he fixed -upon a flat near the water side, with the view of surrounding it -with a fosse, for the double purpose of defence, and bringing -small craft to unload their cargoes under its walls; part of -which canal, called the Llyn-y-Green, was till lately remaining; -and the large iron ring, to which the vessels were fastened, is -still in its place at the great east gate.</p> -<p>Within the present ruins of the castle is an area or square, -of 190 feet, with obtuse corners; on the right is the chapel, an -admirable piece of masonry, and the only entire room in all -Edward’s buildings; its stone arched roof having saved it -at the general dilapidation. Opposite to the south-east -entrance is the great hall, 70 feet long and 23 broad, with a -range of five elegant windows, and forming a front (its turreted -angles excepted) that has rather a modern appearance; and though, -upon the whole, a fortress of prodigious magnitude, yet its low -situation, and the great diameter of its Moorish towers, cause -its ample proportions to appear of less height and extent than is -really the case. This castle is reputed to be the scene of -the massacre of the bards by Edward the First, who does not -appear to have felt secure in his newly-acquired dominions so -long as this influential order remained to raise the song and -string the lyre to deeds of patriotic resistance. The same -system of persecution seems to have been acted upon after the -death of the bardicide; for in the reign of Henry the Fourth, -Rhŷs Gôch, speaking of Gruffydd Llwyd, says—</p> -<blockquote><p>“The best of bards is -interdicted.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p><a name="page58"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 58</span>Within -the area of this ancient castle, in the month of August, 1832, -was held a splendid Congress of Bards, or Eisteddfod, under the -munificent patronage of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley. It was -attended by most of the nobility and gentry of the neighbouring -counties; and the meeting derived peculiar importance from the -presence of Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent, and her -illustrious daughter, then Princess Victoria, now the Queen of -these realms. During several months of that summer, the -royal party had honoured the Principality with their residence, -fixing their domicile for the time at Plâs Newydd, the -elegant seat of the Marquis of Anglesea. A grand regatta in -the bay followed the literary and musical contests in the castle; -and the evenings were agreeably enlivened with splendid concerts, -balls, and other festivities.</p> -<h4>Baron Hill.</h4> -<p>On an eminence behind the town stands this charming residence -of the late Lord Bulkeley. At his death, it descended to -his nephew, Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley, Bart. M.P., by whom it is now -occupied. It has recently been rebuilt and modernised, and -is delightfully situated on the declivity of a richly-wooded -hill, commanding a fine prospect of all the northern mountains of -Caernarvonshire, of the bay of Beaumaris, and a vast expanse of -sea. This place has been in possession of the Bulkeley -family from the date of the second charter of the corporation of -Beaumaris, procured in the reign of Elizabeth. The house -was originally built in the reign of James I., for the reception -of Henry, the eldest son of that monarch, when on his way to -Ireland. But his untimely death so much affected Sir -Richard Bulkeley, the owner, that he gave up his original and -magnificent plan, and used the part only that was then completed -for his family seat. The old house was greatly enlarged and -improved by its late noble possessor. The extensive grounds -are finely wooded, and laid out with great taste and -judgment. The gardens have been extended and beautified, -and the liberal owner generously allows them to be thrown open -for the accommodation of the public. Sir R. Bulkeley is -deservedly esteemed for his efforts to improve the agriculture of -his native county, by the introduction of modern and scientific -culture.</p> -<p>At a short distance east of the house, in a sylvan recess, is -the stone coffin of the Princess Joan, consort of Llywelyn ab <a -name="page59"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 59</span>Iorwerth, -Prince of Wales in 1105. It had originally been deposited -in the subjacent monastery of Llanvaes, and, on the dissolution -of that religions establishment, was placed to receive a watering -brook, like that of Richard III. at Leicester, after the fatal -battle of Bosworth field. In 1812 it was discovered, in its -ignoble uses, by Mr. R. Llwyd, author of Beaumaris Bay, after -being lost for 290 years, when it was removed to its present -situation by the late Lord Bulkeley.</p> -<p>A few hundred yards distant from Baron Hill is Henllys Lodge, -the residence of Captain Lewis Hampton, containing a valuable -collection of curiosities, which any respectable person is at -liberty to inspect. Contiguous to it is The Fryars, the -residence of the late Lady Williams, relict of the late Sir R. -Williams, Bart., of Nant, Caernarvonshire, and mother of Sir R. -W. Bulkeley, Bart.</p> -<p>Six miles from Beaumaris is the village of <span -class="smcap">Pentraeth</span>, delightfully situated in the -vicinity of Red Wharf. Near it are the mansions of -Plâs-gwyn, the seat of Lord Vivian, who married Miss -Panton, the heiress and grand daughter of the late Jones Panton, -Esq., and thus became possessed of this fine property, which he -has greatly unproved; Rhiwlas, the seat of the Rev. Gethin -Williams; and Red Hill, the seat of — Sparrow, Esq. -The neighbourhood is worthy of a visit, being the direct road to -Amlwch.</p> -<p>The church at Pentraeth was thought worthy of an engraving by -Mr. Grose, the antiquary. The Panton Arms is a good country -house of entertainment. Not far from Pentraeth, and near -the sea-side, is Tre’r Castell, formerly the residence of -Marchudd, founder of one of the royal tribes of Wales. It -is now an ancient castellated mansion. It was also the -residence of Sir Tudor ap Goronwy, who did homage to Edward the -second, when Prince of Wales, at Chester. On this domain is -supposed to have been fought, in 818, the “sore battle of -Llanfaes,” between Egbert, King of the Welsh Saxons, and -Merfyn Frych, King of Wales. From this place Queen -Elisabeth received annually a large supply of metheglin or mead, -a favourite Welsh beverage. Close by is Castell Aber -Lleiniog, where are the vestiges of an ancient fort, founded by -Hugh Lupus and the Earl Hugh of Shrewsbury, when they took -possession of Anglesea. The neighbourhood, in fact, is rich -in scenic beauty and historical associations.</p> -<h4><a name="page60"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -60</span>Beaumaris Bay,</h4> -<p>Which stretches itself before and on each side of the town -forms a well-sheltered harbour, and in stormy weather affords -security to vessels of considerable burthen. The depth of -the water near the town is six or seven fathoms even when the -tide is out; but this deep channel scarcely extends more than a -quarter of a mile in width. All the rest of the bay, for -several miles, is left dry at low water, and has the name of -Lavan Sands. Among the intelligent natives an opinion is -prevalent that these sands once formed a habitable hundred of -Caernarvonshire, and were first overflowed during the sixth -century.</p> -<p>The sea of the Menai occasionally produces very singular -fish. That called the Beaumaris Shark sometimes appears; a -curious species of mussel; and creatures of forms that astonish -the fishermen;—</p> -<blockquote><p>“Strange things come up, to look at them,<br -/> -The monsters of the deep.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>This may perhaps account for the marvellous legend, preserved -in “The Triads of the Isle of Britain,” concerning -“the Palug Cat of the Menai.” A remarkable -whale was captured in this Bay in the spring of 1846, and sent to -Liverpool for exhibition. The whole shore throughout the -district is said to be “a mine of fish.”</p> -<h4>Llanvaes Abbey.</h4> -<p>About a mile from Beaumaris, near the seat of the widow of -late Sir Robert Williams, Bart., and not far from the shore, are -yet to be seen, in the walls of a barn, the poor remains of the -house of Franciscan friars, founded in the thirteenth century by -Llywelyn ab Iorwerth, Prince of Wales, still called by the above -name. At the dissolution, the establishment maintained -eight friars, of whom two only were allowed to be Welshmen, when -the convent and its possessions were sold: they are at present -the property of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley.</p> -<h4>Penmon Priory.</h4> -<p>Two miles north of Llanvaes Friary, stands this ancient and -decayed ruin, consisting at present of little more than the -ruinous refectory and part of the church. This was a priory -of Benedictine monks, dedicated to St. Mary, founded in the sixth -century, and re-endowed in the thirteenth by Llywelyn ab -Iorwerth. <a name="page61"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -61</span>At its suppression by Henry the Eighth, the revenues -were valued at £48 per annum.</p> -<h4>Priestholm, or Puffin Island,</h4> -<p>A small island, divided by the narrow channel called the Sound -from the eastern extremity of Anglesea: its British name, Ynys -Seriol, is derived from the residence of St. Seriol upon it in -the sixth century: the compound name of Priest-holm originated in -its being the occasional retreat of the religious of the -neighbouring priory of Penmon. It is also called Puffin -Island, from its being annually resorted to by these birds for -the purpose of breeding.</p> -<p>This island will afford a day of sport to the disciple of -Colonel Hawker—or of information to the industrious -antiquary—or amusement to a pic-nic party; and indeed, to -all visitors in search of health, pleasure, or the picturesque, -who may be sojourning at Beaumaris. It is nearly a mile -from the shore, to the edge of which it slopes in verdant turf on -each side from its lofty central eminence. In shape it -resembles a lemon, extending a mile in length and half a mile in -breadth. Near the centre are the ruins of an old square -tower, supposed to have been a portion of a religious house, once -subordinate to the priory of Penmon; which, from “the odour -of sanctity” thrown around it by popular tradition, -attracted many devotees, and penitents, and dying persons, to its -sacred shrine, either as the subjects of pilgrimage or prayer, or -to obtain interment within its holy walls. Giraldus says, -“the island was inhabited by hermits, living by manual -labour and serving God.” The superior reputation -which this monastery enjoyed, induced the Welsh princes, Llywelyn -and David, and (after the conquest of the country) Edward the -First, to grant to it the revenues of Penmon. Prince Owen -Gwynedd, who lies buried here, was the founder; and its sanctuary -became the refuge at once of the oppressor and the oppressed, in -that lawless age to which it belonged. Little remains to -attest the presence of the crowds of devout men that thronged it, -or of the noble, the wealthy, or of the poor, that once were -interred in its consecrated cemetery. A colony of rabbits -has usurped their territory; and swarms of cormorants, stormy -petrels, curlews, and <i>puffin auks</i>, and, even though but -comparatively seldom seen, peregrine falcons hasten to these -shores in the summer months, to breed and nurture their -young. There is a small house on the island <a -name="page62"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 62</span>for the man -who attends a signal staff erected here in 1826, to form part of -the telegraphic communication between Liverpool and Holyhead.</p> -<p>A pleasant aquatic excursion may he made from Garth Point to -Puffin Island, passing through the picturesque bay of Beaumaris, -the distance being nine miles.</p> -<p>A melancholy interest attaches to this neighbourhood from a -most calamitous event which occurred in the bay of Beaumaris, on -the night of the 17th August, 1831. On the morning of that -day, the <i>Rothsay Castle</i> steamer left the pier-head, -Liverpool, for Beaumaris, the number of passengers and seamen -being between 120 and 140 souls. After passing the floating -light, stationed about 15 miles from Liverpool, the sea became -very rough and the wind adverse; and some of the passengers, -apprehensive of danger, in vain urged the captain, Lieutenant -Atkinson, to return. Between the Great and Little Ormeshead -the vessel was beating about for three hours, and soon after -passing the latter, night had come on, the sea running high, and -the tide ebbing. It was near twelve o’clock when she -arrived at the mouth of the Menai Strait, about five miles from -Beaumaris. When opposite the tower on Puffin Island, -suddenly the steam got so low that the engine would not keep the -vessel on her proper course; and she struck on what is called the -spit of the Dutchman’s Bank, where she remained immovable -till she went to pieces. At least one hundred persons are -known to have perished, and twenty-one were ascertained to be -saved.</p> -<p>A strict investigation into the causes of this dreadful -calamity was subsequently instituted, from which it appeared that -the vessel itself was unfit for the station; that there were no -guns on board to make signals of distress; that the captain and -mate were in a state of intoxication during the time of peril; -that there had been great mismanagement and obstinacy on the part -of the former, and criminal negligence in omitting to furnish the -vessel with necessary apparatus for such an emergency. The -most praiseworthy activity is ascribed to the gentry and other -inhabitants of Beaumaris, as well as the boatmen belonging to the -bay, in rescuing the surviving sufferers, and providing places of -decent sepulture for the dead. On this subject, the -following testimony, from the pen of Lieutenant Morrison, of the -Royal Navy, who has published a Narrative of the unfortunate -wreck, is truly valuable:—“The meritorious efforts -made by Sir Richard Bulkeley, Bart. and other gentlemen of <a -name="page63"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 63</span>the -neighbourhood, to insure respect to the remains of the -unfortunate sufferers, I believe to have been attended with -perfect success. Indeed, I saw numerous valuable and -portable articles which had been saved, and lodged in the hands -of the authorities of Beaumaris, and which might have been very -readily abstracted by the finders, to whom they offered great -temptation. I was never among the inhabitant of North Wales -before, and I must observe that the very excellent conduct of the -lower orders on this occasion forms a strong contrast to that I -have witnessed on the coasts of Devonshire and the south of -Ireland.”</p> -<p>The many accidents in this bay at length induced the -corporation of the Trinity House to erect a lighthouse on the -south-westerly point of the island, at a part called Trwyn-du, or -Black Point, which was finished in the course of the summer of -1838. It is a splendid work of art in the bell form; and -contains more courses of masonry under low-water mark than the -celebrated Eddystone lighthouse. The light is thrown out to -sea by means of a strong reflector erected on the opposite or -Anglesea coast. It is worthy of attention, and visitors -will find it a pleasant sail from Bangor and Beaumaris.</p> -<p>From April to October, first-class steam-packets regularly -arrive from Liverpool every afternoon (except Sunday) about five -o’clock at the Bangor Ferry inn (which has lately been much -improved and enlarged), and return the next morning between eight -and nine o’clock, calling each way at Garth Point and -Beaumaris. And we may here add that this is the cheapest -and most interesting marine excursion which can be enjoyed from -Liverpool.</p> -<h3>BEDDGELERT,<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Aber-glaslyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">1½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">13</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanberis</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Snowdon Summit</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Tan-y-Bwlch</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Tre-Madoc</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Beddgelert, a village most charmingly situated in a beautiful -tract of meadows, at the junction of three vales, near the -conflux of the Gwynnant and the Colwyn.</p> -<p>The church is erected on the site of an ancient priory of -Augustine monks, with which a convent for nuns was also -incorporated. Part of the arches and clustered columns -which supported the nave of the priory are still visible in the -wall of <a name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -64</span>the church, and there are other remains which prove the -original religious establishment to have been of considerable -extent. In 1194 it was endowed with lands by Llywelyn the -Great; and it is recorded that in those days the prior had fifty -cows and twenty-two sheep. In 1283 it suffered from fire, -and Edward I. repaired the damages. In 1535 Henry VIII. -bestowed it on the abbey of Chertsey, in Surrey; and in 1577 it -was made appurtenant to that of Bisham, Berks.</p> -<p>Moel Hebog (the Hawk Hill) rises boldly from the vale in front -of the village, which takes its name—Beddgelert, or the -Grave of Gelert, from an affecting tradition, which has been made -the subject of an admirably pathetic ballad by the Hon. W. R. -Spencer. Miss Costello gives this romantic legend with her -wonted taste and effect:—</p> -<blockquote><p>“King John had given to Llywelyn the Great, -not only his daughter Joanna in marriage, but as a prize little -inferior, a fine greyhound, of superior breed and great beauty, -who was wont to take the lead in all his expeditions, and to -bring down the game in gallant style. The usual season of -the chase arrived, and the prince, his wife, and children had -repaired to the hunting-ground in this valley: one day Llywelyn -set forth, and had not gone far when he discovered that Gelert, -his favourite hound, had lagged behind; he called him in vain, -and, out of temper and impatient, he continued his way, and -occupied himself in his sport, still, however, dwelling with -vexation on the absence of his constant companion. On his -return, as he was about to enter his dwelling, he was met by -Gelert, who leaped upon him and shewed every demonstration of -delight. The prince angrily drove him off, and, as he did -so, remarked that the jaws of the dog were covered with blood, -that blood was on the floor and on the walls—a strange -foreboding of evil stole over his mind: his infant son had been -left in the cradle—no attendant was near—he tracked -the crimson stairs—they led him to the spot where his child -reposed—the cradle was overturned, the infant gone, and a -pool of blood was at his feet.</p> -<p>“Llywelyn allowed himself not a moment’s time for -reflection—Gelert was fawning beside the couch of his -murdered child—his fangs were red with gore—he could -not doubt but that the wretched animal had torn the sleeping -babe, and drawing his sword, he plunged it into the body of the -hound. At this instant he heard a cry—he darted -forward, removed the confused heap before him, and, struggling -beneath, he beheld his <a name="page65"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 65</span>child uninjured, his tiny hands -resting on the body of a gaunt wolf, which had been killed by -Gelert in his defence.</p> -<p>“What was now left for Llywelyn but remorse and late -repentance?—he erected a tomb over the remains of the -faithful dog, and the spot is called ‘the Grave of -Gelert’ to this day.</p> -<p>“There is a Welsh adage which alludes to this legend, -‘he repents as much as the man who killed the -dog’—and this would naturally lead one to imagine -that the sad tale were indeed true; nevertheless, the same is -told in many places, and seems originally to have come from the -far East, where almost all beautiful stories had their birth.</p> -<p>“It is said to be engraven on a rock in Limerick; it is -told in an old English romance; it is repeated in France; and it -is the subject of Persian drama!”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Some chroniclers assert, that Prince Llywelyn founded the -church of Beddgelert to commemorate the preservation of his son, -and as some atonement for slaying his preserver, the faithful -hound.</p> -<p>In a field contiguous to the churchyard, is a large stone, -which is said to mark the spot where Gelert was buried. -Near the stone is a building, now used as a cow-house, which is -reputed to have been the residence of the prince.</p> -<p>There is an excellent inn here, the Goat, recently enlarged -and improved, not inferior in accommodation to any in -Wales. The Caernarvon and Tan-y-Bwlch mail coach passes -twice a day through the village. Behind the old public -house opposite is an interesting view of a solemn dell. The -eye, in surveying this chasm, is relieved now and then by spots -of verdure, patches of heath, thinly-scattered sheep, and the -beautiful curvature of the mountain. In the Welsh annals -this region is styled the Forest of Snowdon. A guide to the -many objects of interest in the locality may be procured at any -time at the Goat inn. When Mr. Nicholson traversed this -part of the country, the name of the guide was William Lloyd, who -was also the village schoolmaster, and who thus explained his -occupation in a placard stuck upon the door of the -inn:—“William Lloyd, conductor to Snowdon, Moel -Hebog, Dinas Emrys, Llanberis pass, the lakes, waterfalls, -&c. &c.” The name of the present guide is -Richard Edwards.</p> -<p>On the road towards Aber-glaslyn, a stone is pointed out by -the name of the Chair of Rhŷs Gôch o’r -’Ryri, the famous <a name="page66"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 66</span>mountain bard, contemporary with Owen -Glyndwr. He was of the house of Havod-garegog, at the -entrance into the Traeth Mawr sands, whence he used to walk, and -sitting on this craggy seat, composed his poems. Among -others is a satire on a fox, for killing his favourite -peacock. He died about the year 1490, and was interred in -the holy ground at Beddgelert, escaping the vengeance of the -English, for inspiring his countrymen with the love of liberty, -and animating them by his compositions into a long and gallant -resistance to the galling yoke.</p> -<p>The neighbourhood of Beddgelert abounds with objects worthy of -the tourist’s attention; and of several of these we will -now add a few particulars.</p> -<h4>Nant Gwynnant.</h4> -<p>Turning to the right hand on crossing the bridge leading from -the inn, you follow up the course of a stream that waters one of -the most beautiful valleys in Wales. On the left, about -half a mile up the valley, is a lofty wood-clad rock, called -Dinas Emrys, the fort of Ambrosius, or Merlin Emrys, a magician -who was sent for to this place from Caer Merddin -(Carmarthenshire) by Vortigern, who was king of Britain from 449 -to 466. It was to this place that Vortigern retired, when -he found himself despised by his subjects, and unable to contend -longer with the treacherous Saxons, whom he had introduced into -his kingdom. It is probable that this insular rock afforded -him a temporary residence, till be removed to his final retreat -in Nant Gwrtheryn, or Vortigern’s Valley, not far from -Nevyn, in the promontory of Lleyn. Speed says that -Vortigern married his own child by Rowena, daughter of Hengist, -the Saxon prince, and had by her one son.—On passing round -the foot of another beautiful isolated rock,</p> -<h4>Llyn Dinas</h4> -<p>(The Pool of the Fort), a lake about a half to three-quarters -of a mile in extent, is spread before you. It is entirely -surrounded by lofty mountains, the tints of which being of a -deeper and browner shade than the generality of Welsh hills, -gives a peculiar richness to the confined valley. The road -runs close along the shore, overhung by one of the magnificent -buttresses of Snowdon: to the right the eye stretches across the -lake to the hills which rise from the water’s edge, above -which a second tier of mountains appears, the great chain which -separates you <a name="page67"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -67</span>from the vale of Ffestiniog. The river which feeds -the lake winds through the verdant and undulating grounds which -spread themselves, a miniature park, between the cottage and the -lake. A romantic pass, affording space for the river and -road only, leads to a valley totally different from, though not -less beautiful than that of Llyn Dinas: the valley forms a bowl -among the hills, the bottom is a small grassy plain, here and -there dotted with trees, through which the river winds; the sides -are magnificent mountains: it is beauty sleeping in the lap of -terror.—On the left, the eye is led to</p> -<h4>Cwm Llan,</h4> -<p>among the deepest recesses of Snowdonia. The immediate -boundary of the valley is succeeded by heights rising -successively above each other. Immediately above this deep -and gloomy gorge towers the monarch of hills, sublime and -terrific in his precipitous height, yet presenting in its conical -summit, its cairn and landmark, a graceful object, filling up the -mountainous gap, the sides of which form a suitable frame to this -noble picture. You follow up the course of the stream, -through the same enchanting scenery, the road gradually -ascending, till you catch through the plantations on the left a -view of</p> -<h4>Llyn Gwynnant,</h4> -<p>stretched below at your feet. This lake and valley are -deeply set among the loftiest mountains of Wales or England, and -form one of the loveliest pictures in this country. Two or -three gentlemen’s residences render this valley cheerful, -without destroying its character of seclusion.</p> -<p>Shortly after leaving the lake, the most striking view of -Snowdon presents itself; you look across the valley on a huge -precipice, over the edge of which, through a wide sweeping dip in -the hill, a very picturesque waterfall, Rhaiadr cum Dyli, is -projected. Plain indications of its source,</p> -<h4>Llyn Llydan,</h4> -<p>a highly elevated mountain lake, are apparent; above this -rises a dark perpendicular wall of rock, towards the summit of -which craggy and sharp ridges run up, and at the junction the -towering peak of Snowdon rises: shortly after, you join the road -from Capel Curig to Llanberis. Let no inconvenience induce -the tourist to relinquish this route.</p> -<p><a name="page68"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 68</span>In the -vale of Colwyn, and nearly two miles from Beddgelert, is a small -pool, about the size of a good horse-pond, called</p> -<h4>Llyn-y-Dywarchen</h4> -<p>(Or the Pool of the Sod), first celebrated by Giraldus -Cambrensis, in the account of his journey through Wales in the -twelfth century, as containing a floating island. This is -still in existence, but not more than eight or nine yards in -length, and evidently appears to be a detached piece of the -turbery of which the bank is composed. There is a small -willow-tree growing upon it, and it is carried to and fro by the -action of the wind and water. Sometimes it remains near the -side of the pool for a considerable while, and it is so large and -firm as to bear cattle on it. When it has been dislodged by -the wind, a few sheep have often been borne by it to the other -parts of the bank.—Within two miles of Beddgelert is -situated</p> -<h4>Pont Aber-glaslyn</h4> -<p>(Or the Bridge of the Conflux of the Blue Pool); it is also -called by the inhabitants the Devil’s Bridge; on which -account it has sometimes been confounded with the bridge of that -name near Havod, in Cardiganshire. In approaching this spot -from Beddgelert, the rocks on each side become incomparably -grand. The road winds along a narrow stony vale, where the -huge cliffs so nearly approach as only just to leave width -sufficient at the bottom for the road, and the bed of the -impetuous torrent that rolls along the side of it. Here -these lofty rocks, which oppose nothing to the eye but a series -of the rudest precipices, “raised tier on tier, high piled -from earth to heaven,” seem to forbid all further access, -and to frown defiance on the traveller.</p> -<p>The bridge crosses the Glaslyn, and unites the counties of -Merioneth and Caernarvon. In the span it is thirty feet, -and from the water to the parapet forty feet high. There is -excellent fishing in this river; it abounds with salmon and -trout. Some years ago, there was a noted salmon leap a few -yards above the bridge, and in the course of an hour, twenty or -thirty fish have been seen attempting to spring over the barrier, -but it is now broken down and fallen into decay. The salmon -come up the river in the latter end of the year, sometimes as -early as the beginning of October, in order to deposit their -spawn on the sandy shallows, and are here very plentiful. -The <a name="page69"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -69</span>fishery belongs to the Wynn family. When the -tourist has passed the bridge, and proceeded about one hundred -yards on the Tre-Madoc road, he will then see the view to -perfection. The elegant and venerable arch clothed with -ivy—the foam of the little waterfall almost -beneath—the majestic rocks to the right, combining to form -one of the finest pictures in Wales.</p> -<p>It was probably from this place that Giraldus Cambrensis -asserted of Merionethshire, that “it was the roughest and -most dreary part of Wales, for its mountains were both high and -perpendicular, and in many places so grouped together, that -shepherds talking or quarreling on their tops, could scarcely, in -a whole day’s journey, come together.”</p> -<p>There is very good fishing in this neighbourhood, at a lake -called Llyn-y-Dinas, about two miles from Beddgelert; the fish -are good for the table, of the weight of about half a pound; -however, trouts of five or six pounds weight have been -taken. There are two boats kept by Robert Roberts; the -flat-bottomed one is considered the better and safer for -angling. Another lake appears, somewhat smaller, called -Llyn Gwynnant, which has been injured by being netted, but still -affords fair sport for the angler.</p> -<h3>BETTWS-Y-COED,<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Capel Curig</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Cerniogau Mawr</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">9½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanrwst</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Bettws-y-Coed (or Station in the Wood), a small village, -pleasantly situated on the Shrewsbury and Holyhead road, not far -distant from the junction of the Llugwy and the Conway. The -church stands in a little cemetery in the centre of the vale, -enclosed by a few stately forest trees, and forms a venerable and -interesting object. It contains an old monument in memory -of Griffith, the son of David Gôch, who was a natural son -of David, brother to Llywelyn, the last prince of Wales. He -died in the fourteenth century, and is here represented by a -large armed recumbent figure in a recess in the north wall. -On one side of the figure, there is yet left this -inscription,—“<i>Hic jacet Gruffydd ap Davyd -Gôch</i>: <i>Agnus Dei</i>, <i>misere mei</i>.” -Within a mile distant is a bridge, consisting of a single arch of -iron, of 105 feet in the span, and called the Waterloo Bridge -from the circumstance of its having been erected in the same year -in which the battle of Waterloo was fought. It carries the -Holyhead road over the Conway.</p> -<p><a name="page70"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 70</span>Near -Bettws-y-Coed is also Pont-y-Pair, a most singular bridge, flung -over the Llugwy, consisting of four arches, placed on the rude -rocks, which form most durable piers. These rocks are -precipitous, and in high floods exhibit to the passenger most -awful cataracts below the bridge. The scenery beyond, -composed of rocky mountains fringed with woods, is very -striking. The river Conway affords good salmon and trout -fishing. The remarkably picturesque character of this -district is particularly attractive to artists who delight to -make sketches from scenes of natural beauty and grandeur.</p> -<h3>CADER IDRIS,<br /> -(<i>Merionethshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Dolgelley</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dinas Mowddwy</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Machynlleth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">13</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Towyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>These distances are computed from the summit of Cader -Idris.</p> -<p>The mountain of Cader Idris, in height the second in Wales, -rises upon the sea-shore, close upon the northern side of the -estuary of the small river Disynwy, about a mile from -Towyn. It proceeds with almost a constant ascent, first -northward for about three miles, then for ten miles further runs -<span class="GutSmall">E. N. E.</span>, giving out from its -summit a branch nearly three miles long in a south-westerly -direction, parallel to the main ridge. It is very steep and -craggy on every side, but the southern descent, especially to the -border of Tal-y-llyn lake, is the most precipitous, being nearly -perpendicular. Its breadth bears but a small proportion to -its length, a line passing along its base, and intersecting the -summit, would scarcely equal four miles and a half; and in the -other parts it is a mere ridge, whose base hardly ever exceeds -one mile in breadth.</p> -<p>Cader Idris is the beginning of a chain of primitive -mountains, extending in a <span class="GutSmall">N. N. E.</span> -direction, and including the Arrans and Arrenigs. It is -much loftier and more craggy than the slate and secondary -mountains which surround it. Dolgelley is the place from -which the ascent to this mountain is usually made.</p> -<p>Several tourists of literary eminence have made the ascent of -Cader Idris, and have left on record graphic and animated -descriptions of the sublime views which its summit -discloses. Mr. Roscoe says—“The following -morning promising a fine day, I determined upon making an -excursion over Cader Idris. This mountain is one of the -most lofty in Wales, and forms a part of <a -name="page71"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 71</span>the great -chain of hills which runs nearly parallel with the coast for many -miles, in connection with the Arrans and the Arrenigs, and more -inland, towards Corwen, with the Berwyn range. Proceeding -over the hill which leads to Towyn, I reached a small lake, and -turning to the left, commenced the ascent. After great -labour for three or four hours, and consequent fatigue, I reached -the summit; and the pool Llyn-y-Cae shewed itself, situated among -high rocks, whose weather-beaten cliffs overhang the water; but -thick mists, wafted from the sea, prevented an extended -view. Mr. Aikin has enriched his narrative with a -description of this grand and picturesque scene he witnessed, the -following extract from which leaves nothing to be -desired:—‘We were now above all the eminences within -a vast expanse, and as the clouds gradually cleared away, caught -some grand views of the surrounding country. The huge rocks -which we before looked up to with astonishment, were now far -below our feet, and many a small lake appeared in the valleys -between them. To the north, Snowdon and its dependencies -shut up the scene; on the west, we saw the whole curve of the bay -of Cardigan, bounded at a great distance by the Caernarvon -mountains, and nearer, dashing its white breakers against the -rocky coast of Merioneth. The southern horizon was bounded -by Plinlimmon, the bay of Swansea, the channel, peeping through -the opening of the Brecon mountains; and on the east, the eye -glanced over the lake of Bala, the two Arrenig mountains, the two -Arrans, and the long chain of Berwyn mountains, to the Breiddin -hills on the confines of Shropshire. Dimly, in the distant -horizon, was beheld the Wrekin, rising alone from the plain of -Salop.’</p> -<p>“At the foot of the mountain is the little village of -Tal-y-Llyn, which borrows its name from the church at the head of -the lake, not unmeetly denominated by the people ‘the -Charming Retreat.’ The church, a simple antique -building, is dedicated to St. Mary. The parish extends -about eight miles, embracing in its circuit a large portion of -the mountainous chain. The whole vicinity, wood, and hill, -and lake—stirred by the winds, or clothed with the yellow -hues of autumn—wore a highly picturesque yet dreary aspect; -and I took great delight in exploring a number of bold, romantic -streams and falls, all within the limits of this interesting -district. Tal-y-Llyn (the Head of the Lake), with its -little church, dedicated to St. Mary, stands at the west end of -the pool, in a long valley <a name="page72"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 72</span>lying below the lofty ranges of Cader -Idris. Looking north-east, the vale is contracted by the -mountain bases, with their sides broken into a thousand crags, -some sharp and conical, and others overhanging, as if ready to -fall upon the heedless traveller, who wends his way beneath their -shadows. Pen-y-Delyn (or the Harp Rock) is there, bearing a -resemblance in its figure to that instrument, with its indented -and perforated summit, ready to receive the first breath of the -morning, and to herald the rising beam of the great luminary with -the fabled music of Memnon; and Llam-y-Ladron too, (or the -Thieves’ Leap), the Tarpeian Rock from whose fearful top, -it is said, the ancient Britons used to cast their felon -brethren.”</p> -<p>Of the heights of Cader Idris, of Arran Vowddwy, and of the -Arrenig Vawr, says Mr. Pennant, I am enabled to give a very exact -account, by the assistance of the ingenious Mr. M. Hughes, of -Bala, who assures me that the Pen-y-Gader is 2858 feet above the -level of Dolgelley-green; Arran-Vowddwy, 740 above Llyntegid; and -the Arrenig, only 20 yards short of Arran; that the fall from the -lake to Dolgelley-green, is 180 yards; so that the real -difference of height between the Cader and the Arran is only -thirty yards. Two graves, where human bodies were -deposited, have lately been discovered at the foot of Cader -Idris, under two immense carnedds.</p> -<p>Within the last few years, for the accommodation of visitors, -a cottage has been erected on the summit of the mountain, by -Richard Pugh, who resides at Dolgelley, and who acts in the -capacity of a guide. This has proved of great advantage to -visitors, who were not unfrequently assailed by the teeming -shower, without an opportunity of shelter; and who had no spot -for temporary refreshment while waiting for the dispersion of -misty clouds in order to enjoy the exquisite prospect. Here -parties or individuals may have all convenient -refreshments. The road up the mountain on the Dolgelley -side has lately been much improved, so as to enable ladies and -gentlemen to ride up to the very top with the greatest ease and -safety, which cannot be done on the other side of the mountain -without great danger. The charge of the guide for -conducting a party to the summit is five shillings, and the same -sum is paid for each of the ponies employed in the ascent.</p> -<p>For angling stations, see Dolgelley and Tal-y-Llyn.</p> -<h3><a name="page73"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -73</span>CAERGWRLE,<br /> -(<i>Flintshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Hawarden</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mold</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Wrexham</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Caergwrle was once a flourishing town, but has dwindled into -an insignificant village. Its parish church is about a mile -distant. There is good reason for believing that Caergwrle -was a Roman station, probably an outpost to Deva. Camden -discovered here an hypocaust, hewn out of the solid rock, six -yards and a quarter long, five yards broad, and somewhat more -than half a yard in height. On some of the tiles were -inscribed the letters, “Legio xx.” which seem to -denote the founders. This is further corroborated by the -name of the place, “Caer gawr lleng,” (the camp of -the great legion), Cawr lleng being the name by which the Britons -distinguished the twentieth legion.</p> -<p>The castle stood on the summit of a high rock. Its -present remains are very inconsiderable; they are, however, -sufficient to indicate that it never could have been a fortress -of any great importance.</p> -<h4>Hope, <a name="citation73"></a><a href="#footnote73" -class="citation">[73]</a> or Queen’s Hope,</h4> -<p>Is an inconsiderable village, little more than a mile from -Caergwrle; it also has the remains of a castle, at which Eleanor, -queen of Edward the First, made some stay on her way to -Caernarvon.—Within a short distance are the mansions of -Bryn Yorkyn and Plâs Têg. Caergwrle and Hope, -in conjunction with Flint, Caerwys, Rhuddlan, Overton, and -Holywell, send a member to Parliament.</p> -<p>Angling station:—the river Alun.</p> -<h3>CAERNARVON.</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Bangor</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Beaumaris</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Beddgelert</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">13</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Capel Curig</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">17</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dolbadarn Castle</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ffestiniog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">25</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanberis</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London by Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">254</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>— by Shrewsbury</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">236</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pwllheli</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Tan-y-Bwlch</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">23</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Tre-Madoc</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Caernarvon is the capital of the county, and is one of the -largest and best towns in North Wales. It name is properly -<a name="page74"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 74</span>Caer yn -Arvon, which signifies a walled town in the district opposite to -Anglesea. Ar Vôn or Ar Môn implies opposite to -Mona.</p> -<blockquote><p>“Caernarvon (we adopt the interesting and -elegant description of Mr. Roscoe,) is built on a peninsula, -formed by the Menai on the west and north sides, and by the -Seiont on the south. It was formerly enclosed by walls, -defended by a chain of round towers, which on three sides are -still nearly entire. In former times there were but two -gates through which the inhabitants passed, but other openings -have been more recently made to form communications with the -suburbs, which are rapidly extending. The town-hall is over -one of the ancient gates of the town.</p> -<p>A terrace, extending from the quay to the north end of the -walls, offers a delightful promenade, and presents a variety of -interesting objects around the port, which is daily rising into -greater importance by receiving and dispensing the fruits of -industry and commerce. This terrace, Mr. Bransby observes, -possesses the powerful recommendation of being always clean, and -of soon becoming dry after heavy and continued rain. From -this walk to behold the sun on a calm summer evening, as he goes -down ‘in a paradise of clouds’ behind the Anglesea -hills, is to witness one of the most lovely and glorious -spectacles in nature. On an eminence called the Twt-hill, -near the Uxbridge Arms Hotel, is a most extensive and varied -panoramic view, including part of the Snowdonian range,—the -isle of Anglesea, with its plains, farms, and villas, backed by -the mountains of Holyhead and Parys,—the swelling -Menai,—and the blue and spacious bay, with the sea -stretching far beyond.</p> -<p>The harbour and the pier have both undergone very great -improvement, and ships of considerable burthen can now come up -alongside the quay. An extensive trade is carried on with -Liverpool, Dublin, Bristol, Swansea, &c., besides a lucrative -coast trade, exchanging the invaluable mineral substances of this -part of the Principality for timber and other articles. -Slates are brought here as to the general depôt from the -quarries about Llanberis and Llanllyfni; and the country people -of all ranks resort hither, as the best and cheapest market, from -a considerable distance.</p> -<p>The market-house, erected by the corporation, the Uxbridge -Arms Hotel, by the Marquis of Anglesea, a number of excellent -inns, among which stand foremost the Goat Hotel and the <a -name="page75"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 75</span>Sportsman, -with hot and cold baths, and a billiard-room, render the modern -town as pleasant and commodious a place of residence as the most -fastidious nabob,—to say nothing of hardy Welshmen and -pedestrian ramblers,—could possibly desire.</p> -<p>Caernarvon is resorted to as a bathing place, and by invalids -seeking health and amusement, for a temporary residence. -There are here the advantages of a genteel neighbourhood as well -as salubrious air; and the rambler in quest of romantic scenery -frequently makes this town his head quarters. Besides many -pleasant walks and rides in the immediate vicinity, within the -circle of a dozen miles are the Menai Straits as far as Bangor, -Llanberis, Snowdon, Plâs Newydd, and Beddgelert, offering -not only inducements to those in search of the picturesque, but -affording a source of continued gratification to the botanist, -mineralogist, and antiquary.</p> -<p>The parish church of Caernarvon is at Llanbeblig, and stands -in its loneliness at the distance of half a mile to the -south-east of the castle wall. It is a structure of great -antiquity, and contains the altar-tomb of Sir William Gruffydd (a -member of the Penrhyn family) and Margaret, his wife. The -knight mailed in armour, and the lady in the full dress of the -age, are sculptured in white marble, and lie side by side. -English service is performed at a chapel of ease at Caernarvon, -close to the castle; but in this venerable little place the -service is conducted in Welsh. The churchyard exhibits the -peculiarities which give a touching interest to some of the -burying places of the Principality. Flowers of all colours, -but especially snowdrops, violets, and pale primroses, display -their beauty and expend their perfume on the graves of children, -and maidens ‘that die unmarried,’ while branches of -the box, arbutus, and laurel, with shrubs of a firm and sombre -hue, mark the resting places of the more matured in this -‘City of the Silent.’</p> -<p>For its ample and magnificent feudal structure,—almost -terrible to the eye,—Caernarvon is indebted to the first -Edward, who raised this colossal castle—as if in derision -of the poor tenure of all sovereign power—near the ruins of -the great Roman station. Soon after his conquest, Edward -began the stupendous pile, which served less to overawe the Welsh -than for a magnificent ruin and a modern wonder. The -remains of Segontium furnished part of the materials, bright grey -limestone, of exceeding durability, was brought from Twr Celyn, -in <a name="page76"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -76</span>Anglesea, and grit-stone, for the windows and arches, -from Vaenol, between Caernarvon and Bangor.</p> -<p>Vast, irregular, and more shattered than its exterior grandeur -would lead us to suppose, this giant-fortress stretches far along -the west of the town, its broad spreading walls being surmounted, -at intervals, with octagonal towers. The extent of the -courts, the gateways, and the towers, bear equal witness to those -noble proportions which astonish the modern architect, as from -its Eagle-turrets he commands the whole of its magnificent area, -and the wide sweeping circuit of its walls.</p> -<p>Opposite the massive Eagle tower, in which the unfortunate -Edward the Second was born, is the Queen’s Gate, <a -name="citation76"></a><a href="#footnote76" -class="citation">[76]</a> which had two portcullises that -communicated with a drawbridge across the moat. Over the -embattled parapet are seen the turrets rising majestically above -the solitary ruins, bounded on two sides by the water; the third -bears traces of a large ditch; on the north-east side is a deep -well, nearly filled up, with a round tower contiguous to it, -apparently the ancient dungeon. The exterior, and -especially the main entrance, has an air of <a -name="page77"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 77</span>forlorn -grandeur, blended with massy strength, which must at all times -excite admiration and awe in the beholder. The area within -is irregularly oblong, and was divided into an outer and inner -court. The external walls of the castle, enclosing an area -of great extent, are nearly as perfect as when they were built, -and of considerable height and thickness.</p> -<p>The state apartments appear to have been spacious, commodious, -and handsomely ornamented; the windows wide, and enriched with -elegant tracery. The form is polygonal, though the exterior -of the edifice presents a complete square. The floors and -staircases are considerably injured—in many places wholly -demolished. A gallery extended round the entire fortress, -to serve as a means of communication in times of danger, and -during a siege. It lay close to the outer walls, and was -provided with narrow slips, adapted for stations, from which to -annoy an enemy with arrows or other missiles as occasion might -require. But its time-worn and ivy-covered bulwarks are now -fast yielding, like the interior, to the assaults of time. -Some years ago the Eagle tower, struck by lightning, was split -down several yards from the summit, giving it still more the -aspect of a splendid ruin.</p> -<p>It was evening, as I before said, when I first caught sight of -the castle. The sun’s disk had sunk below the -horizon, but his refracted rays still played upon that imaginary -line ‘which parts the day and night,’ casting an -attenuated melancholy grace over the crumbling fortress. I -lingered amongst those ruins till the last vestige of light was -withdrawn, except such as is bestowed by a clear blue firmament -emblazoned with burning stars. As I gazed, the phantoms of -history passed rapidly before my mental eye, with an order and -truth like unto the facts treasured in her pages, and with a -realizing illusion that converted me into an actual spectator of -the scenes. From the topmost point of the Eagle Tower a -prophetic voice seemed to issue, dispelling the delusion that in -those days clung to the hearts of the stricken Cambrians, that -their own-loved Arthur would again appear to raise up their -fast-falling nation to its former glory. I saw the stern -conqueror buckling on his armour, after the Easter festival, -resolute to conquer or exterminate the defenders of that ancient -land. I heard the wailing of that dark and stormy night of -Palm Sunday, when the strong hold of Hawarden fell before his -victorious sword. I tracked the line of march his countless -legions took through <a name="page78"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 78</span>the deep forest, reaching, in ancient -times, from the confines of Cheshire to the mountains of Snowdon, -leaving Flint and Rhuddlan still frowning in their perilled rear; -and I looked upon the picture of that onslaught at the bridge of -Moel-y-don, when an English knight was seen buffeting the waves -of Menai, and alone escaped to tell the tale of national -vengeance. The panorama shifted, and another pictured page -discovered that gallant prince, the last of his race who held the -sceptre of the Cymri, slowly retreating before his haughty foe -into the mountain holds hard by,—dispirited, though not -despairing,—cursed by the priest whom Edward brought to -curse him,—deluded by the soothsayer, whose prophecy bore -‘a double sense,’ too fatally fulfilled in his own -person,—deserted by many of his friends, and his affianced -wife basely held a captive in the hands of his enemy. The -scene then moved; the undaunted hero still struggled with his -fate, once the sovereign of the whole land, now only lord of the -five baronies of Snowdon,—goaded by the insults of his mean -conqueror,—maddened into open war,—betrayed by his -base confederate lords,—and perishing alone and defenceless -in the solitary recesses of a wood. Such was the strange -eventful story; and that castle which marked the triumph of the -conqueror, and the subjection of the people—which heard the -infant cries of the first English prince of this cheated -land—which opened wide at midnight its gates to troops of -warrior-knights belonging to an alien country—which rung -again and again with the rude revelry of that barbarous age, when -the pageant and tournament of Nefyn was ended,—and which in -the days of its strength, passed into the hands of foes, and -friends, and fratricides,—that castle in its gaunt ruins, -yet remained as the monument of these records, and the tomb in -which past ages silently slept.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>A rail-road has lately been formed from Llanllyfni to -Caernarvon, a distance of more than nine miles, for the purpose -of conveying the copper ore and slates to the quay.</p> -<p>A most interesting part of the Menai Straits is connected with -Caernarvon. Tourists may enjoy boating in perfection, -either on the Tal-y-Foel ferry, the new ferry at Barris, to which -a good road has recently been made, through the lands of the -Marquis of Anglesea, by his free permission; or to Aber-mania, at -the mouth or gap of the straits, and then to Llanddwyn, where are -the remains of an old abbey. On the opposite side the gap -to Aber-mania is St. David’s Fort, a marine residence <a -name="page79"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 79</span>of Lord -Newborough, well worth a visit, and where the domestics shew the -greatest civility. A few miles to the northward, on the -east coast of Caernarvon bay, is Dinas Dinlle, an old Roman -station of artificial formation.</p> -<p>Caernarvon is remarkable for having been the first town in the -principality that enjoyed the privilege of a royal charter, which -was granted by Edward the First. The government of the -place was rested in a mayor (who is always constable of the -castle), two bailiffs, a recorder, burgesses, &c. before the -passing of the municipal reform act; now it is under the -provisions of that act. In conjunction with the boroughs of -Conway, Criccieth. Nevin, Pwllheli, and Bangor, Caernarvon -returns a member to parliament. The member in the present -parliament is W. B. Hughes, Esq.</p> -<p>There are two banks, viz. Messrs. Williams & Co. commonly -known as the old bank, and which is in connection with the banks -of the same firm at Chester and Bangor; and a branch of the North -and South Wales bank. Coaches pass several times each day -between this place and Bangor, and the mail leaves every morning -for Pwllheli through Clynog; and for Barmouth, through -Beddgelert, Tremadoc, Tan-y-bwlch, and Harlech.</p> -<p>Caernarvon castle is now undergoing considerable repairs, -under the authority of the Commissioners of Woods and -Forests.</p> -<p>It is more than probable, that the town of Caernarvon had its -origin in the Roman city of Segontium, about half a mile distant, -and that it is not, as many have supposed, indebted for its name -to Edward the First; for <i>the fort in Arvon</i>, or in the -hundred opposite to Anglesea, as the name indicates, would apply -with equal propriety to the ancient city as to this more modern -fortress. The town, however, there is no doubt, was the -creation of Edward, and it was most probably formed from the -ruins of the old station. The site of the ancient city of -Segontium lies about half a mile south of Caernarvon, the ancient -Roman station mentioned in the Itinerary of Antonius. This -appears to have been the principal station that the Romans had in -North Wales, all the rest being only subordinate stations. -It received its name from the river Seiont, which rises in the -lower lake of Llanberis, passes under the walls, and discharges -itself into the Menai near Caernarvon castle. Its form was -an oblong; and it appears originally to have occupied about six -acres of ground. Not far hence was the fort which belonged -<a name="page80"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 80</span>to it: -this was also of an oblong figure, and stood upon about an acre -of ground. The walls are at present about eleven feet high, -and six in thickness, and at each corner there has formerly been -a tower. A chapel, said to be founded by Helen, daughter of -Octavius, Duke of Cornwall, and a well which bears her name, are -amongst the ruins still pointed out. The chapel was -standing little more than a century ago. The old Roman road -from the station of Dinas Dinorwic, in Llanddeiniolen, to Dinas -Dinlle, on the shore of Caernarvon bay, lay through -Caernarvon. Both stations are worth the attention of the -antiquary.</p> -<h3>CAERWYS,<br /> -(<i>Flintshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">23</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Denbigh</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holywell</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">212</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mold</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>St. Asaph</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Caerwys, formerly a market town, with the parish of the same -name, contains about 1000 inhabitants, being situated on the high -road leading from Holywell to Denbigh, through the beautiful Vale -of Clwyd. Caerwys has the most considerable fairs for -cattle, sheep, pigs, and horses, in all the country, though its -markets have long since failed. The market-house still -remains, but it has been converted, time out of mind, into a -dwelling-house. It is close to the cross; to the <span -class="GutSmall">S. W.</span> the arches are yet plainly to be -seen, though filled up; and the remains of an erect south dial -are yet distinctly to be seen in the south wall.</p> -<p>A few hundred yards to the west, is a most beautiful dingle, -known by the name of Maesmynan Wort, offering a pleasant ramble -to the admirer of nature and the botanist. Near the place -where the brook, which runs through this dingle by Maesmynan -House, empties itself into the Wheeler, was formerly the -residence of Llywelyn ab Gruffydd, the last native prince of -Wales: a cottage, now called Pandy, shews the place where the -prince resided.</p> -<p>Among the towns of the Principality, this was formerly a place -of great renown, but its glory has faded away, and nought remains -to evince its ancient consequence but its name. This is a -compound of the two words, <i>Caer</i>, a city, and -<i>gwŷs</i>, a summons, notifying its having been a place of -judicature. The assizes for the county were held in the -town of Caerwys till <a name="page81"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 81</span>about the middle of the seventeenth -century, when they were removed to Flint; the goal is yet -remaining, though converted into a dwelling-house, called Yr -hên Gaol. This still continues to be one of the -contributory boroughs for the return of a member to -parliament. Mr. Pennant, upwards of fifty years ago, -describes Caerwys as a “town mouldering away with -age.” The chief boast of this town was its being the -<i>olympia</i> of North Wales, the theatre where the British -bards poured forth their extemporaneous effusions,</p> -<blockquote><p>“In thoughts that breathe, and words that -burn;”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>and where the honoured minstrels awakened</p> -<blockquote><p>“Their harps to soul-enchanting melody,<br -/> -And gave to rapture all their trembling strings.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Here were held the ancient <i>Eisteddvodau</i>, or congresses -of bards and minstrels, where judges presided, appointed by -special commission from the Princes of Wales previous to the -conquest, and from the Kings of England after that event. -These arbiters were bound to pronounce justly and impartially on -the talents of the respective candidates, and grant degrees -according to merit. The bards were formed into a college, -the members of which had particular privileges to be enjoyed by -none but such as were admitted to their degrees, and licensed by -the judges. The last commission granted by royal authority -for holding this court of Apollo seems to have been in the 9th of -Elizabeth, when Sir Richard Bulkeley, knt. and certain other -persons were empowered to make proclamation in the towns of North -Wales, that all persons intending to follow the profession of -bards, &c. should appear before them at Caerwys on a certain -day, in order to give proofs of their talents in the science of -music, and to receive licenses to practise the same. The -meeting was numerous, and fifty-five persons were admitted to -their degrees. From this period, these meetings were -discontinued at Caerwys and throughout the Principality: the -minstrel ceased to be considered a venerable character in -England, and our monarchs looked, probably, with equal contempt -on the bards of Wales. Thus neglected and despised, the -Eisteddvodau dwindled to nothing, and reposed in oblivion for -many years.</p> -<p>Towards the close of the last century, some spirited Welsh -gentlemen, who had the honour of their national harmony and -literature at heart, determined to revive a meeting likely to <a -name="page82"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 82</span>preserve and -encourage that music and language, the excellence of which has -for ages been enthusiastically admired by their countrymen. -In the spring of 1798, their resolution was carried into effect; -and an Eisteddvod was held at Caerwys, the ancient place of -meeting. Since this period, Eisteddvodau have been frequent -in different parts of the Principality.</p> -<h3>CAPEL CURIG,<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>,)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Bangor</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Beddgelert</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">17</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Cerniogau Mawr</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ffestiniog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanberis</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanrwst</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Menai Bridge</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">17</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Capel Curig is most beautifully situated on the London and -Holyhead road. From its vicinity to Snowdon and other -mountains of note in this part of the Principality, and to -several of the first lakes in North Wales, it has been for a long -time much frequented by tourists; and since the diversion of the -great Holyhead road through Nant Ffrancon, and the erection of a -spacious hotel here by the late Lord Penrhyn, has become a place -of fashionable resort, and during the summer season is visited by -many families of distinction. A new line of road from this -place to Caernarvon, through the pass of Llanberis, at the foot -of Snowdon, has lately been opened, affording a more direct -communication with the interior of the counties of Caernarvon and -Merioneth.</p> -<p>In this vale there is a lovely variety both of wood and -water. The name is derived from its chapel, dedicated to a -Welsh saint called Curig, situate a short distance from the -inn. He is mentioned in an old Welsh poem, which, however, -only intimates his order, and nothing more is at present known of -him.</p> -<p>Capel Curig is situated in a district abounding with mineral -wealth. A great quantity of calamine has been obtained -here, and in the vicinity is found the broad primitive rock -called serpentine. Near a place called Bryn Gwaliau, -between Capel Curig and Llanrwst, there are some remains of a -Roman edifice, a great part of which has been removed for -building materials: one of the apartments was found by Mr. Lysons -to be sixty feet by twenty in dimensions, and another eighteen -feet six inches square, in which latter were several short square -pillars of stone, similar to those of the hypocaust near the -Feathers hotel in Chester.</p> -<p><a name="page83"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 83</span>Behind -the inn at Capel Curig westward are two lakes connected by a -stream, on which a boat is kept, and frequently employed by -visitors in aquatic excursions. At the foot of the lake -there is an ancient rustic bridge, from which, as well as from -the lake, is a fine view of old Snowdon and his proud -associates.—At a short distance from the hotel southward, -rises the mountain of</p> -<h4>Moel Siabod,</h4> -<p>Whose height is 2878 feet: it is exceedingly precipitous, -especially on that side towards Bettws-y-Coed, and the summit is -thickly strewed with loose fragments. From this commanding -station is a most magnificent view of the mountains of Snowdonia, -of nine different lakes, and “ocean’s dim -immensity.” The distance from the inn to the summit -is about three miles and a half.—Beneath Moel Siabod, -towards the east, and about five miles from Capel Curig, is</p> -<h4>Dolwyddelan Castle,</h4> -<p>Said to have been built about the year 500. It is -situated on a high rock, inaccessible on one side, and consists -of two square towers, one 40 feet by 25, the other 31 feet by 20, -and a court in the middle. This old ruin, entirely enclosed -by mountains, built probably by some of the princes of North -Wales, though its original founder and the time of its erection -are unknown. Iorwerth Drwyndwn made this castle his -residence, and his son, Llywelyn the Great, is said to have been -born at this place. It was a fortress of considerable -importance to the Welsh, but a few decaying relics now serve to -mark the site of its former power and grandeur. Recent -investigations render it probable that this was the last -stronghold in North Wales that held out against Edward the -First. In the royal roll of expenditure of that period, -appear items of payments to an earl, a knight, and a squire, for -bringing news to the Queen, at Rhuddlan, where the army of -reserve was stationed whilst Edward was pursuing his successes in -the Snowdonian mountains, of the reduction of this fortress; and -the date corresponds with the close of the resistance and capture -of David, the brother of Llywelyn. The village of -Dolwyddelan stands within about a mile of the castle, and -consists of only a few small cottages.</p> -<p>Three miles and a half from Capel Curig, on the left of the -road toward Bettws, is the celebrated cataract of</p> -<h4><a name="page84"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -84</span>Rhaiadr-y-Wennol,</h4> -<p>(Or the Waterfall of the Swallow.) The scenery around -this truly beautiful and picturesque fall, formed by the little -river Llugwy, is truly grand; the water at the top is in one -body, but soon becomes broken into many streams, dashing -impetuously over large masses of rock, which impede its progress, -down a rugged chasm of sixty feet wide at the broadest part, The -high banks of the ravine are wooded, the trees hanging -beautifully over the torrent, and the ground is richly carpetted -with mosses and various wild flowers. From the upper part -of the wood, near the head of the fall, there is a very good view -of the descending flood; a path from the high road leads to the -fall, and a little wicket gate has been placed in the wall on the -road side, for the convenience of visitors who may wish to obtain -a view of this sublime scene, which, although contiguous to the -road, is so obscured in the wood, that the traveller will almost -certainly pass it unawares, unless he makes timely enquiry: it -may, however, be discovered by a summer-house which has lately -been built on the top of a mountain directly over the fall.</p> -<p>About four miles from Capel Curig, on the Bangor road, is -situated</p> -<h4>Lake Ogwen,</h4> -<p>From whence issues the river Ogwen. This lake is well -stocked with excellent trout of a peculiar colour and flavour, -surpassing in these respects all fish found in the -Caernarvonshire lakes; they are of a bright yellow cast in the -water, though when eaten they have a fine salmon colour; they are -easily taken with the fly. The surplus water of this lake -discharges itself at the western end, through a chasm in the -rocks, tumbling in three noble cataracts down a height of about -one hundred feet, called the Falls of Benglog, which are -concentrated into a bed in the luxuriant and beautifully green -meadows of</p> -<h4>Nant Ffrancon,</h4> -<p>(Or the Beaver’s Hollow), so called from having been the -resort of those animals. This is a romantic and tremendous -glen, destitute of wood, and even of cultivation, except the -narrow slip of a meadow which lies along its bottom. The -fantastic piles of rocks which compose its sides, rise abruptly -from their <a name="page85"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -85</span>base, and stretch their barren points into the -clouds. The Holyhead and London road passes through the -whole extent.</p> -<p>In 1685, part of a rock, forming one of the impending cliffs, -became so undermined by wind and rain, that loosing its hold, it -fell in several immense masses, and in its passage down a steep -and craggy cliff, dislodged some thousands of other stones. -The largest piece of the falling rock continued its motion -through a small meadow, and rested on the further side of the -river Ogwen. In the winter of 1831, another part of the -rock gave way, when upwards of one thousand tons fell from near -the summit of Benglog, a little below the Ogwen cataracts; part -rolling straight across the road, fell into the valley and river -at the bottom; while another part having acquired a less -momentum, rested on the road; the intercourse of travellers was -for some time impeded, although one hundred miners were engaged -in clearing the surface of the road. A gentleman from the -vale of Llanrwst had just passed along in his carriage, on his -way to Bangor, when the terrific sound of the dissolving mountain -fell upon his astonished ear.</p> -<p>The mountains at the upper end of this vale form a scene -singularly grand; on each side the hollow appears guarded by a -huge conical rock, Trivaen on the right, and Braich-dû on -the left. These, with the Glyder-vach and the Glyder-vawr, -and some other mountains, fill up the distance, and apparently -close the vale.</p> -<p>Near this place, beside a little gothic cottage, is a small -hone quarry, Y Trivaen, which received its name from three tall -stones standing in an upright position on its summit, and from -below had the exact resemblance of three men. Of these only -two remain.</p> -<p>One mile from Ogwen lake, in a deep valley, lies a dark pool, -called</p> -<h4>Llyn Idwal.</h4> -<p>The gloomy horrors of the surrounding scenery exceed even -those of Ogwen; the encircling cliffs are overhanging, broken, -and dark; in one part the whole mountain is rent asunder, and the -chasm of Twll dû (or the Black Cleft) gapes between the -terrific masses. The solitude of Cwm Idwal proved -favourable to the perpetration of a deed of blood, and it was -here that young Idwal, the infant heir of Prince Owen Gwynedd, -was treacherously assassinated, by order of his foster-father -Nefydd, to whose care his father had consigned him.</p> -<p><a name="page86"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 86</span>Miss -Costello gives the following description of this romantic -region:—</p> -<p>“We were not induced to linger very long in the slate -quarries, being more desirous to make ourselves acquainted with -the undisturbed nature which invited us on the way to Capel -Curig.</p> -<p>“The Vale of Nant Ffrancon is wild and stupendous in the -extreme; it is an extensive marshy valley, filled with peat, -whose black masses are piled in all directions in stacks; -numerous alleys filled with the water which drains from it, are -cut through the turf on whose surface the graceful cotton plant -waves its feathery and snowy tresses, covering the swampy ground, -and lending it beauty; numerous water flowers of bright colour -give some life to the scene, which would otherwise be -inexpressibly dreary. Huge masses of crumbling rocks bind -in the narrow valley, and assume the strangest and most grotesque -shapes, as though the visions of the Welsh bard, Davydd ap -Gwilym, were realized, and</p> -<blockquote><p>“‘There were in every hollow<br /> -A hundred wry-mouthed elves.’</p> -</blockquote> -<p>“Indeed, the famous and dreaded family of the Ellyllon, -who are fond of coming forth in mist and rain, seemed to have -pursued and overtaken us just as we had nearly reached the -gloomy, dark, and secluded lake of Ogwen. The clouds grew -darker, and rolled in heavy masses through the valley, and down -the sides of the hills—a chill and hollow wind rose and -whistled fearfully along the pass—large drops of rain began -to fall, and we thought there was no escape from one of those -storms so frequent in these regions; but the spirits sulked -themselves into good humour, and did not force us to choose the -usual alternative of travellers who fall into their power, for -they are said to insist on their taking the uncomfortable choice -of three methods of continuing their journey: to go with them -‘above the wind, mid wind, or below the wind:’ the -first is to be whirled above the tops of the mountains at more -than rail-road speed; the last to be hurried along, through -brakes and briars, against stones and amongst bogs; and the -middle way, generally preferred by those who have experience in -the freaks of these elves, is to accompany them at a moderate -distance in the air just clearing every obstacle.</p> -<p>“We contrived to gain the shore of lake Ogwen unmolested -by all the imps and demons, who seemed to have come on the wings -of the blast from their modern retreat on the pedestals <a -name="page87"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 87</span>of Penrhyn -Castle, to visit the haunts where they dwelt in days of yore, -before every rock was attacked for its mineral wealth as it is -now. On the borders of this solemn lake, however, the -miner’s hammer is unheard; all is solitary grandeur and -gloomy sublimity: mountains are piled on each other, and appear -to crowd together round the lake, pressing its dark waters into a -small space, deep and generally still, though ruffled when we saw -it, by the rushing wind that swept through the hollow of Nant -Ffrancon.</p> -<p>“The river Ogwen issues from this lake, and the -accumulated waters which its rocky basin is unable to contain -force their way through a chasm in the rocks, and fall with -tremendous force in three cataracts, called the Falls of -Benglog.</p> -<p>“Solemn and silent as Ogwen appears, it is less fearful -and solitary than another dark lake situated high up amongst the -mountains in the vicinity, called Llyn Idwal, where, in the early -times of Welsh history, it is recorded, that Idwal, the infant -heir of Prince Owen Gwynedd, was drowned by the hand of his -foster-father, when</p> -<blockquote><p>“‘No human ear but Dunawt’s <a -name="citation87"></a><a href="#footnote87" -class="citation">[87]</a> heard<br /> -Young Idwal’s dying scream.’</p> -</blockquote> -<p>“The cliffs that encircle this lake are split into a -thousand fearful shapes, and a mighty chasm yawns between, called -Twll dû, which is said to be the abode of the unquiet soul -of the murderer and the howling and exulting demon who torments -him for his hateful crime—a crime</p> -<blockquote><p>“‘Most foul, strange, and -unnatural.’</p> -</blockquote> -<p>“No bird will ever dip his wing in that lake, nor pause -near its waters.</p> -<p>“Nothing can exceed the horror of this spot: the breach -in the black rock is like that produced by the Sword of Roland in -the Pyrenees, but no cheering prospect of far lands opens -through: here all is dark, fearful, and tremendously -appalling.</p> -<p>“The Twll dû is sometimes called the Devil’s -Kitchen; the waters of the lake rush impetuously through its -chasm. In memory of the tragedy acted here, the fish, of -which there was formerly a profusion, were all deprived, -according to received tradition, of one eye, the left being -closed: as there are now no <a name="page88"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 88</span>fish in the lake, it is impossible to -verify the truth of this legend.</p> -<p>“This neighbourhood is the chosen abode of demons and -strange monsters; and once upon a time, it is said, that a hunter -pursuing the chase in the valleys between these mountains saw -suddenly, perched on a rock, an extraordinary animal, such as had -never before been beheld. It was hunched like a buffalo, -and was covered with tufts of hair which shone like gold. -The daring hunter pursued it over every obstacle, till he had -nearly reached the Twll dû, when he overtook and slew it; -but he gained little by his exploit, for the animal bellowed so -loud that the rocks split in all directions; and neither the -huntsman nor his prey was seen afterwards.</p> -<p>“The pretty inn at Capel Curig is built of slate, walls -and roof and flights of steps, all of a shining grey, contrasting -oddly with its gay garden of roses which lies beneath. From -this garden is a fine view of Snowdon and its lake, with mountain -scenery of great sublimity on all sides. The graceful -bridge over Gwyryd is a beautiful object in the distance: while -Snowdon, Moel Siabod, and the three sister lakes linked together, -which extend along this charming valley, lie all before the -eye.”</p> -<h3>CERIG-Y-DRUIDION,<br /> -(<i>Denbighshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Cerniogau</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Corwen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanrwst</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pont-y-Glyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ruthin</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This is a pleasant village, so named from its being supposed -to have been the abode of the Druids. In Camden’s -time it was famed for some druidical remains. These ancient -relics have long since been removed; they consisted of -<i>cromlechs</i> and <i>kist vaens</i>, or stone chests.</p> -<p>At Pen Gwerwyn, a hill about a mile to the east of the -village, are some inconsiderable remains of a castle, of which -tradition says that it once belonged to Caractacus. We are -told that when he was routed by the Romans, he retreated to this -castle for safety; but was, with his whole family, betrayed to -the enemy, and sent prisoner to Rome, where he delivered that -celebrated speech which is so familiar to all students of British -history.</p> -<h3><a name="page89"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -89</span>CERNIOGAU MAWR,<br /> -(<i>Denbighshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Capel Curig</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Cerig-y-Druidion</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Corwen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">13</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ruthin</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Cerniogau Mawr is a hamlet of three or four small houses, in -an elevated situation, on the London and Holyhead -mail-road. Five miles on the road to Llanrwst is -Gallt-y-Gwy, a terrace of more than two miles long. To the -east appears the beautiful deep vale of Llanrwst, with Conway in -the termination.</p> -<h3>CHESTER.</h3> -<p>Although this city is not strictly within the cognizance of -our publication, yet its close proximity to North Wales, and the -advantages which it offers as a starting point from which a tour -of the Principality may be commenced, warrant us in devoting to -it a passing notice. Chester abounds with objects of -interest to the traveller; and its many antique relics of bygone -ages never fail to excite the admiration of those who take -pleasure in the quaint architecture, or historical memorials of -former times.</p> -<p>Its old walls, its antique rows, its curiously carved and -gable-ended houses, its venerable cathedral, its solemn towers, -its abbey gates, the ruined Priory, and the time-worn church of -St. John, may be enumerated among the more prominent vestiges of -its antiquities. While its noble castle, its unrivalled -Grosvenor Bridge, and the elegant lodge at the entrance of Eaton -Park, are among the modern attractions which the tourist will -examine with interest and delight; but to the description of -which we shall not in this place devote a fuller notice, as they -are more particularly alluded to elsewhere.</p> -<h3>CHIRK,<br /> -(<i>Denbighshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Llangollen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">176</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Oswestry</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ruabon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Chirk is pleasantly situated on the northern bank of the river -Ceiriog, which, flowing through a small vale of great beauty, -here separates the counties of Denbigh and Salop, and of course -Wales and England. It is a very neat and clean village, and -contains some highly respectable houses, and several <a -name="page90"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 90</span>substantial -and well-built cottages, having been greatly improved within the -last few years by the late Mrs. Myddelton Biddulph, who, on -coming into possession of the Chirk Castle estates, pulled down -several dilapidated buildings, and erected others of modest and -uniform appearance for her tenants, on more eligible sites. -The Holyhead road, on both sides the village, has been widened -and altered within the last few years, so as to avoid the -irregularities and windings in its course. There are some -coal mines in this parish, extensive lime works, and several -large iron forges, which employ a great number of hands. -The village has a good church, and in the yard are several -remarkably old yew trees.</p> -<h4>Chirk Aqueduct.</h4> -<p>The Ellesmere canal enters this parish from Shropshire, and is -conveyed across the vale of Chirk and the river Ceiriog by means -of an aqueduct, two hundred and thirty yards long, consisting of -ten arches, the piers of which are sixty-five feet high, and then -immediately enters a tunnel two hundred and twenty yards -long. On emerging from this subterranean passage, it -proceeds on its course through the parish, and then enters -another tunnel, soon after which it is carried over the vale of -the Dee by the stupendous aqueduct of Pont-y-Cyssylltau. -About one mile and a half to the west of the village is</p> -<h4>CHIRK CASTLE,</h4> -<p>proudly situated on an eminence, backed by the Berwyn -mountains. It is a venerable quadrangular embattled -structure, defended by a low massive tower at each corner, and -another in the centre of the north front, where is the principal -entrance, under an arched gateway guarded by a portcullis, into a -square area of considerable dimensions, round which the various -apartments are ranged: on the east side of this area extends a -low embattled corridor, leading into the principal apartments, -which were greatly altered, modernised, and embellished by the -late Mrs. Biddulph, within the last few years; but the old -entrance to the hall is by a flight of steps on the north side of -the area. The picture gallery, at the south end of which is -the chapel, is 100 feet in length by 22 in width, and contains -some good portraits and other paintings.</p> -<p>Chirk castle is supposed to have been built in the year 1013, -and was an extremely strong fortification. The front is -about <a name="page91"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 91</span>250 -feet; and two persons abreast may parade the battlements with -ease. It was besieged by the parliamentary forces, and -considerably battered by the cannon of Cromwell. The -repairs cost £80,000.</p> -<p>The park is extensive, and disposed with picturesque effect, -the inequalities of its surface, and the declivity of the hill -extending behind it and towards the north, having afforded a -favourable scope for the arrangement of the trees and -plantations. Near New Hall, which is described as an old -seat of the Myddeltons, rebuilt many years ago as a farm-house, -and surrounded by a moat, at the entrance into the park from -Llangollen and Wrexham, stands a pair of iron gates, of the -richest, most delicate, and exquisite workmanship, designed and -executed by a common blacksmith.</p> -<p>The summit of the castle commands a wide expanse of great -beauty and magnificence, offering to the naked eye an -uninterrupted view into seventeen different counties. The -river Ceiriog runs on the west side of the castle, through a deep -and picturesque valley, remarkable in history as the scene of a -sanguinary conflict in 1165, between the forces under Henry the -Second and those of the Welsh under their brave Prince Owen -Gwynedd, when the latter obtained a decisive victory, and -compelled the Saxon monarch to seek safety in a retreat to his -own territories.</p> -<p>In this neighbourhood are many ancient fortifications, the -most noticeable of which is part of Offa’s dyke, thrown up -as the boundary between the ancient Britons and the Saxons in -763.</p> -<p>This fine estate has been in possession of the Myddelton -family since the beginning of the seventeenth century; the -present possessor is Colonel Robert Myddelton Biddulph, Lord -Lieutenant of Denbighshire, paternally descended from the -Biddulphs of Ledbury, in Herefordshire.</p> -<p>One mile below the village of Chirk is also</p> -<h4><span class="smcap">Bryn Kinallt</span>,</h4> -<p>the elegant seat of Lord Dungannon. It is delightfully -situated on an elevation, and surrounded by extensive and -beautiful plantations.</p> -<h3><a name="page92"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -92</span>CLYNOG,<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanllyfni</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pwllheli</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This beautiful village is situated on the turnpike-road, about -equidistant between Caernarvon and Pwllheli. It has a -remarkably fine gothic church, the tower of which rises very -beautifully from among a verdant cluster of noble trees.</p> -<p>St. Beuno, the reputed uncle of St. Winifred, erected the -church and a grand mausoleum, now called St. Beuno’s -chapel, which communicates with the church through a dark vaulted -passage of six yards. In this chapel the remains of the -pious founder, who lived in the seventh century, were deposited, -and here also was his saintly niece interred. Her effigy in -stone, mutilated like an Egyptian mummy, is still to be seen at -this sacred edifice.</p> -<p>About a hundred yards from the church, adjoining the -turnpike-road, is St. Beuno’s well, eight feet square, -inclosed by a wall eight feet high. This well was much -famed for healing the sick, and particularly for curing the -rickets in children. Within the last fifty years, however, -the well has ceased to attract so many devotees, though no doubt -can exist as to the sanative virtues of its waters.</p> -<p>In the south-east corner of the church, near the altar-table -there is an old wooden chest, belted with iron, and fastened to -the floor, called “Cŷff Beuno” (Beuno’s -chest), which was originally placed there to receive the -offerings of money from the devotees of the saint, who repaired -there for comfort and healing.</p> -<p>Between Clynog and Caernarvon is Glynllifon, the seat of Lord -Newborough. It was recently destroyed by fire, and is now -rebuilt.—Near the coast is Dinas Dinlle, a Roman station, -30 acres in extent, supposed to have been artificially raised by -the soldiers of Agricola.</p> -<p>Rhaiadr Dibyn Mawr is a waterfall among the mountains, distant -about two miles from Clynog.</p> -<h3><a name="page93"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -93</span>CONWAY,<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Aber</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Abergele</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bangor</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">24</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llandulas</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanrwst</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">236</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Penmaen Mawr</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This is one of the most interesting and picturesque towns in -North Wales. The approach to the town from the Denbighshire -side of the river is remarkably interesting, and presents a fine -view of the noble castle and the beautiful suspension bridge, -with the adjacent mountain scenery, forming a glorious panorama -of surpassing loveliness and sublimity. The pearl fishery -of the Conway, which even yet, though shorn of its former -importance, affords employment to several poor families, was -celebrated in the time of the Romans. Pliny says that -Julius Cæsar dedicated in one of the temples of Rome a -breastplate set with British pearls, probably from this -fishery. And in comparatively modern days, one of these -pearls, presented to the Queen of Charles the Second by Sir R. -Wynne, was honoured with a place in the royal crown, where -probably it yet shines, in testimony of the loyalty of the -Welshman. The British pearls are found in a shell-fish, -called by Linnæus <i>myd margaritefera</i>, the pearl -muscle, peculiar to stony and rapid rivers.</p> -<p>The port of Conway is a dry harbour, frequented by a few -coasting vessels; and the river is navigable up to the village of -Trefriw, which is about twelve miles from its mouth. A quay -extends along the east side of the town wall. The principal -inns are the Castle and the Newborough Arms.</p> -<p>The castle, built in 1284, under the eye of Edward the First, -by the architect, it is supposed, whom he employed in the -erection of Caernarvon, is very justly regarded as one of the -most beautiful fortresses in a country distinguished for the -splendour and magnificence of its military structures. -Though more extensive and better preserved, it somewhat resembles -the castle of Falaise, in Normandy. Its base, however, is -less wooded, and there is no brawling streamlet leaping, as -there, from rock to rock, at its foot; but instead, a broad, -majestic river, and a creek full at high water, swoop round two -of its sides. The other two face the town. Within the -walls are two spacious courts; and the external line of the -fortifications <a name="page94"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -94</span>contains eight lofty towers, each with a slender turret, -singularly graceful and elegant in form, springing from its -summit.</p> -<p>The great hall on the right measures 130 feet long and 30 -broad, and is lighted by six lancet-shaped windows, opening out -upon the creek, and three pointed windows, of exquisite tracery, -looking towards the ample court. Eight Gothic arches, four -of which remain entire, supported the roof of this magnificent -apartment. A lofty Norman arched window at each end, and -two broad carved fire-places, completed the architectural -decorations and appearances of the hall. The spacious hall -was the scene of the Christmas revelries to which Edward and his -queen invited the English nobility and their high-spirited dames, -while the monarch was forging the chain that was for ever to -enslave the prostrate Principality. The walls, on all -sides, are covered with a green drapery of luxuriant ivy, and a -meadow of grass lies in the open area of the courts. The -warder’s duty is supplied by a whole tribe of crows, whose -solemn parley is heard the instant a stranger’s foot -approaches the domain they have usurped; and the ivied walls are -nearly alive with blackbirds, and birds of all colour, whose -notes resound for the live-long day throughout these otherwise -deserted ruins. Two entrances, both contrived for security, -led into the fortress; one by winding narrow stairs, up a steep -rock, from the Conway, and terminating in a small advanced work -before one of the castle-gates, covered by two round -towers—the other towards the town, protected by similar -works, with the addition of a drawbridge over a broad moat.</p> -<p>Notwithstanding its grandeur and importance, this castle makes -no great figure in history. Soon after its erection, the -royal founder was besieged in it by the Welsh, and the garrison -nearly reduced to an unconditional surrender by famine. -Finally, however, they were extricated from their perilous -situation by the arrival of a fleet with reinforcements and -provisions. In 1399, Richard the Second, then in Ireland, -commanded the troops, raised in his behalf against the haughty -Bolingbroke, to assemble at Conway, and their numbers were -considerable; but the vacillation and feebleness of purpose of -that monarch induced many of them to abandon him on his arrival; -yet the remainder was still sufficient to have made head against -the usurper, had not the king, who feared to fight his own -battles, basely abandoned his followers, and rushed blindly into -the snare laid for him by his enemies. During the civil -wars, <a name="page95"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -95</span>Conway Castle was at first held by Archbishop Williams -for the king; but the warlike churchman, being superseded by the -fiery Rupert in the command of North Wales, went over in dudgeon -to the republican party, and personally assisted the gallant -General Mytton in the reduction of the castle. While the -republic flourished, this noble fortress was suffered to retain -all its ancient grandeur undiminished; but on the restoration, a -grant having been made of it, by the Stuart, to the Earl of -Conway, its new possessor ordered his agent to remove the timber, -iron, lead, and other valuable materials, and send them to -Ireland, ostensibly for his master’s service, though it is -generally supposed they were intended for his own use. A -suitable fate attended this desecration of one of the finest -structures of antiquity, the vessels which conveyed the materials -being wrecked, and the whole of the property entirely lost.</p> -<p>This ancient castle is the fictitious scene of the drama of -the <i>Castle Spectre</i>, and of <i>The Bard</i> of Gray.</p> -<p>The suspension bridge, by Mr. Telford, is constructed on the -same principle as that of the Menai, though on a smaller scale, -and presents an appearance singularly elegant, lying at the foot -of the antique castle, and surrounded by scenery of the most -picturesque description. It is 320 feet in length between -the supporting towers, and 18 feet above high-water mark. -The chains on the western side pass upwards of 50 feet under the -castle, and are fastened in the granite foundations on which it -is built. On the farther side they are bolted into an -insular rock, which rises in the bed of the river, and forms the -strait through which the gushing waters pass on their way to the -sea.</p> -<p>The piers of the bridge, and the toll-house at the western -extremity, are built in strict keeping with the architecture of -the castle. An embankment, formed of hard clay, faced with -solid masonry of stone, and stretching from the insular rock to -the western shore of the county of Denbigh, a length of 671 -yards, with a breadth of 30 feet, and an extreme elevation of 54 -feet, exhibits one of the finest and firmest -<i>chaussées</i> in the world.</p> -<p>The church, though ancient, contains scarcely anything worthy -of notice, except the following inscription, engraved on a stone -in the nave of the building, which, though found in Pennant and -other tourists, is so curious as to deserve repetition: -“Here lyeth the body of Nicholas Hookes, of Convey, -gentleman, (who was the forty-first child of his father, Wm. -Hookes <a name="page96"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -96</span>Esq. by Alice, his wife,) the father of twenty-seven -children, who died the 27th day of March, 1637.” In -the market-place is an old building called Plâs Mawr, which -was erected more than two centuries ago. It is deserving -the notice of the antiquarian. The town is surrounded by a -very thick wall, strengthened by twenty-four towers, most of -which remain in tolerable preservation.</p> -<p>Miss Costello seems to have been thoroughly enraptured with -Conway, of which she says, “I think no description, however -enthusiastic, can do justice to one of the most romantic and -interesting spots that exists perhaps in Europe. Although -the modern bridge, which carries the road across the river to the -castle walls, looks, as it is of course, of a very different date -from the antique structure, yet there is something so singular, -so beautiful, and so aërial in a suspension bridge, that it -can scarcely be thought out of character with the Moorish-looking -towers and turrets to which it leads, which are as light and -graceful as itself, in spite of their immense strength and -power. With all the legends of supernatural buildings with -which Wales abounds, it would not be difficult for the -imagination to conceive that the Genii threw these delicate -chains over the wide space that divides the castle from the -opposite rocks, and thus obtained a triumph over the giant who -kept the fortress. Both near and at a distance it has a -beautiful effect, and is even more graceful than the surprising -work over the Menai Straits.</p> -<p>“The castle, although on the shore of the broad river, -which is here, at high water, half a mile wide, stands on a lofty -rock, which forms the strong foundation of the fabric, and -defends the town, which must however have been well capable of -defence in itself, to judge by the huge walls which surround it, -and which are still entire, and the enormous towers placed from -distance to distance along their whole extent. The shape of -the town is fancifully said to resemble a Welsh harp, to the form -of which it really has much affinity; and as there are no suburbs -nor a single straggling house beyond the allotted precincts, it -is plainly defined and has a peculiarly striking aspect, quite -unlike that of any other town I ever saw.</p> -<p>“In all lights and from all points the castle looks -well: but the best view of it is perhaps from the opposite shore, -where all its towers, and battlements, and minaret turrets, come -out in great relief, particularly with a sunset sky behind them, -<a name="page97"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 97</span>when they -stand forth most gorgeously. With the river full of water, -and the sun going down red and glowing, as we saw it the first -evening we arrived, nothing can be conceived more magnificent -than the scene:</p> -<blockquote><p>“‘Seem’d all on fire that castle -proud,’</p> -</blockquote> -<p>“with crimson and golden flames issuing from the lofty, -dark walls. But when we beheld it in the morning, shining -white, with the blue sky for its background, we could not decide -at which hour it was most admirable; and again, whether by the -light of a brilliant moon the mighty fortress, whose rents and -defacements the favouring shade concealed, did not appear after -all to the greatest advantage. * * *</p> -<p>“We were so delighted with the extreme beauty of the -castle, and the quiet of this simple place, that we remained -there ten days, in order to enjoy frequent strolls amongst the -ruins, and visit some of the most interesting places -near.”</p> -<p>We fully concur in the glowing encomiums which have been -passed by the most intelligent tourists on the locality of -Conway, which is doubtless one of the most attractive and -interesting spots in the Principality.</p> -<p>From Conway, Mr. Bingley, the celebrated author, made an -excursion round</p> -<h4>Creiddin,</h4> -<p>a commot or hundred of Caernarvonshire, situated upon the side -of the river opposite to Conway, and forming a considerable -promontory into the Irish Sea. After crossing the river, -and proceeding along the shore for about half a mile, the first -object of attraction is</p> -<h4>Diganwy,</h4> -<p>or Dinas Gonwy (or the Fort on the Conway), called by the -common people, “Y Faer dre,” and by the English, -Gannoc. The ruins of the ancient castle are situated on the -summit of two small hills, near the shore. At a short -distance is a circular watch-tower, said to have been built some -time in the latter part of the seventeenth century.</p> -<p>Mr. Bingley next crossed the flat, and under the <span -class="GutSmall">S.W.</span> side of Llandudno rock, passed the -shell of a large mansion, which some centuries ago was a palace -belonging to the Bishop of Bangor; thence along the steep and -slippery sides of the elevated down of Llandudno, for about two -miles to the end of <a name="page98"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -98</span>the promontory. Here the rocks are for the most -part perpendicular, of amazing height. Many rare plants are -found in this district.</p> -<p>About a mile from the <span class="GutSmall">N. E.</span> side -of the promontory is Llandudno church; and at a short distance is -Eglwys Rhôs, celebrated as the last refuge of Maelgwyn -Gwynedd, who fled hither to avoid the <i>vâd velen</i> (or -yellow fever) which raged over a great part of Europe.</p> -<p>Not far distant is <span class="smcap">Gloddaeth</span>, one -of the seats of the Hon. E. M. Ll. Mostyn, built by his ancestor, -Sir Roger Mostyn, Bart. in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. -The walks of Gloddaeth are remarkably beautiful. The house -was famed for its library of ancient manuscripts, chiefly Welsh, -which has been removed to Mostyn Hall. At the distance of a -mile is <span class="smcap">Bodysgallen</span>, the seat of Miss -Mostyn. It is a place of great antiquity; the situation is -commanding, and finely shaded by venerable woods. -Archbishop Williams, a native of Conway, who succeeded the -illustrious Lord Bacon in the office of Lord High Chancellor of -England, died at Gloddaeth, <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> -1650.</p> -<p>Another excursion made by Mr. Bingley was up the vale of -Conway, leading on the road to Llanrwst. Having passed the -village of Gyffin, he found the vale of Conway to afford many -very interesting prospects. <span class="smcap">Caer -Rhun</span> (the Fort of Rhun) lies at the distance of five -miles. It is a charming little village, on the western bank -of the river, surrounded with wood. To this site has -generally been assigned the ancient Roman Conovium. In the -summer of 1801, the late Rev. H. D. Griffith had many apartments -cleared, where were discovered several broken vases, dishes, -&c. From the road, near the bridge, called Pont -Porthlwyd, about eight miles from Conway, high up the mountain on -the left, is a waterfall of very considerable height, called in -the neighbourhood Rhaiadr Mawr (the great waterfall.) Mr. -Bingley ascended along a winding path, which conducted him to the -bed of the river, near the station, whence he saw it to the best -advantage. The water runs from a pool among the mountains, -called Llyn Eigiau. He pronounces this waterfall the -grandest and most picturesque of any he had seen in North -Wales.</p> -<p>For angling station, see Llanrwst.</p> -<h3><a name="page99"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -99</span>CORWEN.<br /> -(<i>Merionethshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Bala</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">33</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Denbigh</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holyhead</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">67</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llangollen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">193</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ruthin</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pentre Voelas</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Corwen (the White Choir) is a small market-town on the London -and Holyhead road, situated at the foot of the Berwyn mountains, -on the bank of the Dee. The population (2199) is -principally employed in agriculture. There is a good inn -here, exhibiting the gigantic features of Owen Glyndwr, the -renowned and formidable opponent of Henry the Fourth.</p> -<p>Within the church, under an arch on the north side of the -altar, there is a very ancient coffin-lid, in high preservation, -bearing the following inscription, “Hic jacet Jorwerth -Sulien, vicarius de Corvaen; ora pro eo.” There is -also a fine cross fixed in a circular stone to the west of the -steeple. The name of Corwen, corrupted from Corvaen, is -probably derived from the cross: <i>cor</i>, signifying a circle, -and <i>maen</i>, which is changed into <i>vaen</i> when joined -with <i>cor</i>, is The Stone or Cross in the Circle.</p> -<p>The house of the celebrated Owen Glyndwr was situated in this -parish, but not a vestige of it is now left: the site is marked -by a clump of fir trees, on the left of the Llangollen road, -about three miles from Corwen. At Rhug, within a mile and a -half of the town, stands the elegant seat of Colonel -Vaughan.—Rhagatt, the mansion of Edward Lloyd, Esq., is -also situated in the parish, and within two miles of the -town.</p> -<p>The roads in this district are excellent; the Shrewsbury and -Holyhead mail runs through the town. There are also two -good lines of road hence to Bala; that by Llandrillo leads -through the vale of Edeyrnion, which is one of the most beautiful -in Wales, the road very excellent, with scarcely a hill in its -course; the other by the Druid, 12 miles, commands a very fine -view of Bala lake, and the surrounding hills. There is -likewise a very good road, 12 miles, to Ruthin.</p> -<p>Upon the Berwyn mountains, behind the church, is a place -called Glyndwr’s Seat, whence is a most charming and -extensive prospect, which may be reached without fatigue. -The rich and delightful vale of Corwen expands beneath, with the -Dee in the centre. Here Glyndwr might view nearly forty -square miles of his own land.</p> -<p><a name="page100"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 100</span>Near -to Corwen is the site of an ancient British encampment, called -Caer Drwyn; it is on the summit of a hill, and protected by a -circular wall, about one mile in circumference: and within are -the ruins of a circular fort. It is supposed to be one of -the chain of posts from Dyserth to Cynwyd, and formed in olden -times a stronghold. Owen Gwynedd occupied it in the days of -Henry the Second.</p> -<p>The tourist remaining at Corwen, who has any relish for -angling, may readily obtain all the necessary tackle in the town, -at a low charge, and will find good fishing between Corwen and -Llan-St.-Ffraid bridges, two or three miles, and at Llandrillo, -about five miles from Corwen.</p> -<p>This district was visited by a most desolating flood, caused -by heavy rains, in the summer of 1846.</p> -<h3>CRICAETH,<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Beddgelert</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">240</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pwllheli</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Cricaeth, a little borough town, contributory to Caernarvon, -with 811 inhabitants, is very irregularly built. Except the -remains of its small castle, it contains nothing which can claim -the attention of the traveller. This ruin stands on a -rising ground, at the end of a long neck of land, jutting into -the sea. The entrance into it is between two round towers; -the others being all square. Edward the First is said to -have founded this castle; and it was once the residence of -Howel-y-Fwyall, who captured the king of France at the battle of -Poictiers. It is stated that the Welsh warrior struck off -the head of the king’s horse with a battle-axe, and then -secured the monarch. The event is thus recorded by one of -the native bards:—</p> - -<blockquote><p> “Pan -roddodd<br /> -Y ffrwyn ymhen Brenin Ffrainc.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The Black Prince made Howel constable of this castle, granting -him a guard of eighty yeomen at the royal charge, and a mess of -meat to be served up daily before his pole-axe.</p> -<p>The church, dedicated to St. Catherine, is a spacious -structure, but in a very neglected state.</p> -<p>From the eminence on which the castle stands, is a beautiful -view across Cardigan bay towards Harlech, where is seen its fine -old castle, backed by the high and distant mountains of -Merionethshire.</p> -<h3><a name="page101"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -101</span>DENBIGH.</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Abergele</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">13</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">28</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Conway</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">25</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Corwen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holywell</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanrwst</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London by Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">214</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>— by Shrewsbury</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">206</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mold</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ruthin</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>St. Asaph</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bodfary</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Denbigh, the capital of the county, is situated on the -declivity of a craggy hill, in the vale of Clwyd. This -place was originally named by the Welsh Castell -Caled-Vryn-yn-Rhôs (the Castle on the Craggy Hill in -Rhôs), from the prominent situation of the castle in the -ancient territory of that name. By the parliamentary -returns of 1841, the population was 3405. The two principal -inns are the Bull and the Crown. Denbigh was formerly -accounted a place of great importance, while its castle and walls -were entire; and, about the middle of the sixteenth century, it -was thus celebrated by Churchyard, the poet, in his -“Worthies of Wales:”—</p> -<blockquote><p>Denbigh, now appeare, thy turne is next,<br /> - I need no gloss, nor shade, to set thee out;<br /> -For if my pen doe follow playnest text,<br /> - And passe right way, and goe nothing about,<br /> -Thou shalt be knowne, as worthie well thou art,<br /> -The noblest soyle that is in any part;<br /> -And for thy seate, and castle do compare,<br /> -With any one in Wales, whate’er they are.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The town is picturesquely situated on the side of a steep -hill, and the noble ruins of the castle on its summit greatly -contribute to its venerable appearance. Denbigh consists of -three principal, and several smaller streets and lanes, and is -well paved and lighted, but only scantily supplied with water, -which is brought from several springs, each at some distance from -the more respectable portions of the town. This -inconvenience is much increased during a continuance of dry -weather, at which time the wells occasionally become exhausted, -excepting that termed the Goblin Well, situated at the foot of -the hill on which the castle is built; this is so copious as to -supply a considerable portion of the town, but the labour of -carrying the water up the steep ascent is very great. -Connected with this spring is a cold bath. The environs -abound with beautiful and richly varied scenery. The land -in the vicinity is rich, and in a high state of cultivation; and -in the neighbourhood are numerous splendid seats and elegant -villas, inhabited <a name="page102"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -102</span>by opulent families, who have selected Denbigh for -their residence on account of the advantages of its -situation.</p> -<p>The ancient parochial church, dedicated to St. Marcellus, and -now in a very dilapidated condition, is situated in the open -valley, at Whitchurch, <a name="citation102a"></a><a -href="#footnote102a" class="citation">[102a]</a> about a mile -from the town, from which place the rectory was transferred by -act of parliament to Denbigh, which was made the head of the -parish. In the porch of this church are two monumental -brass effigies, in a kneeling posture, of Richard Myddelton, <a -name="citation102b"></a><a href="#footnote102b" -class="citation">[102b]</a> of Gwaunynog, governor of Denbigh -Castle in the reigns of Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth; and of -his wife Jane, both of whom were here interred. In the body -of the building there is an ill-executed mural monument to the -memory of the learned Welsh antiquary, Humphrey Llwyd, of -Foxhall, near Denbigh, who is represented as kneeling beneath a -range of small arches, and in Spanish costume. There is -also a large altar-tomb to the memory of Sir John Salusbury and -his lady, the former of whom died in 1578. A neat mural -monument in the western wall has been erected, by the -Gwyneddigion Society in London, to the memory of Thomas Edwards, -of Nant, commonly called Twm o’r Nant, the celebrated -“Cambrian Shakspere,” who died on the 3rd of April, -1810, at the age of 71, and was interred in the churchyard.</p> -<p>All the parochial duties are now performed at the chapel of -St. Hilary, within the walls of the castle, with the exception of -funerals, which still take place at Whitchurch, there being no -cemetery attached to the former. The inhabitants, early in -1838, realized a handsome subscription to erect a new church, so -as to be more convenient, in a contiguous part of Denbigh parks, -the site of which was liberally offered by Captain Mostyn, -R.N. The first stone was laid on the coronation-day of our -beloved sovereign, Queen Victoria. There are places of -worship for Baptists, Independents, Calvinists, and Wesleyan -Methodists. The town also contains a free grammar-school -for twenty boys; a blue-coat charity school, on the foundation of -which are twenty-four hoys; a national school, in which -eighty-six boys and one hundred girls are educated.</p> -<p><a name="page103"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -103</span>Denbigh has a good town-hall, a dispensary, a reading -room and a Welsh literary society. Its chief manufactories -are gloves and shoes; the market is held on Wednesday and -Saturday. There is also a branch of the North and South -Wales Bank here. Denbigh is the chief of the contributory -boroughs that send one member to parliament: the present M.P. is -Townshend Mainwaring, Esq., of Marchwiel.</p> -<p>It is a remarkable circumstance that no specific provision for -the insane poor has been made in any part of North Wales, -although the melancholy records of those afflicted by the loss of -reason, prove that the Welsh are no more exempt from that severe -visitation than the mixed races known as Anglo-Saxon. This -circumstance excited the attention of the philanthropic Mr. -Ablett, of Llanbedr, who has most generously presented twenty -acres of land, in the immediate vicinity of Denbigh, for the site -of the building and grounds of an institution to be called the -North Wales Lunatic Asylum, and a subscription amounting to -upwards of £6000 has been realized. The estimate for -one commensurate to the wants of this part of Wales, is from -£12,000 to £15,000, and it is proposed that the rest -of the fund shall be contributed by the counties, in whom the -management of the institution shall be vested.</p> -<h4>The Castle</h4> -<p>is situated on the summit of the Caled-Vryn, an isolated -limestone rock, rising abruptly to the height of two hundred and -forty feet from the western boundary of the Vale of Clwyd, and -incloses an area of considerable extent; the principal entrance -is on the north, under a lofty and magnificent arch, which is -nearly entire, and flanked by two large towers, now in ruins; -above it is a niche, in which is a robed figure of the founder, -Henry Lacey, Earl of Lincoln, in a sitting posture; the whole of -the rooms and towers are in a state of the utmost -dilapidation. The citadel is surrounded with walls, a mile -and a quarter in circumference, which inclose the whole of the -ancient town: the principal entrance is on the north-west, and is -defended by two majestic towers, which are nearly entire; from -these the walls extend round the brow of the hill, on the most -elevated and precipitous parts of which numerous lofty towers -have been erected, forming together one of the strongest bulwarks -in the kingdom. Within these walls are the ruins of the -church or chapel, founded by the Earl of Leicester; and the -chapel of St. <a name="page104"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -104</span>Hilary, formerly appropriated to the use of the -garrison, and now the parochial church.</p> -<p>The walls inclose a considerable area, now covered with grass, -in which horses and cattle are depastured. Within the walls -of the fortress are numerous cottages, which materially diminish -the interest commonly excited by such extensive ruins; and on the -south-west front of the castle, and on the boundary wall on this -side, are an extensive terrace and bowling-green, commanding one -of the richest and most delightful views of the fertile Vale of -Clwyd, embracing the whole of the eastern portion of this -beautiful and finely varied tract, terminated by the ocean at -Llandudno bay, and on the south by the whole range of Clwydian -mountains, with their numerous camps and tumuli. On this -delightful spot the congress of bards and minstrels, called the -grand Eisteddfod, was held on the 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th days -of September, 1828: it was honoured by the presence of his royal -highness the Duke of Sussex, and most of the nobility and gentry -of the surrounding country. The bowling-green, in the midst -of the ruins, is well worth a visit; it is laid out with -considerable taste.—Within two miles of Denbigh is</p> -<h4>Gwaunynog,</h4> -<p>which was visited by Dr. Johnson, during his residence with -Mrs. Piozzi: the estate was at that time in the possession of his -friend, the Rev. Dr. Myddelton. In the hall is still -retained an easy chair, in which Dr. Johnson was accustomed to -sit. On the grounds, a short distance from the house, in a -very retired situation, overhung with trees, is a monument to his -memory, bearing the following inscription:—</p> -<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">SAMUEL -JOHNSON, LL. D.</span><br /> -<span class="GutSmall">OBIT 13 DIE DECEMBRIS,</span><br /> -<span class="GutSmall">ANNO DOMINO 1784,</span><br /> -<span class="GutSmall">ÆTATIS 75.</span></p> -<p>And on the other side, on a marble tablet,—“This -spot was often dignified by the presence of Samuel Johnson, -LL.D., whose moral writings, exactly conformable to the precepts -of Christianity, give ardour to virtue, and confidence to -truth.” Over a door of a cottage on the estate are -the following lines, the composition of the learned -lexicographer:—</p> -<blockquote><p><a name="page105"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -105</span>Around this peaceful cot, his humble shed,<br /> -If health, if confidence, if virtue tread,<br /> -Though no proud column grace the gaudy door,<br /> -Where sculptured elegance parades it o’er;<br /> -Nor pomp without, nor pageantry within,<br /> -Nor splendid shew, nor ornament is seen;<br /> -The swain shall look with pity on the great,<br /> -Nor barter quiet for a king’s estate.</p> -<p style="text-align: right">1768.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Near to this place is the village of Henllan, about two miles -from which is Llanefydd, leading to the Aled and Elwy vales.</p> -<h3>DINAS MOWDDWY,<br /> -(<i>Merionethshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Bala</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dolgelley</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llangollen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">40</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Machynlleth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">13½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mallwyd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">1½</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Dinas Mowddwy is an inconsiderable town, in the parish of -Mallwyd, pleasantly situated on the shelf of a rock called -Craig-y-Ddinas, near the margin of the small river Cerrist, at -its conflux with the Dovey, and on the road from Dolgelley to -Mallwyd, at the junction of three vales, each of which is -inclosed by lofty mountains: it consists chiefly of one -street. The principal building is the -“Plâs,” or mansion, being the manor house of -the lordship of Mowddwy, which from an early period belonged to -the Myttons of Halston, but was lately purchased by a Mr. Bird, -of Birmingham.</p> -<p>Slates, of an inferior quality, are dug from the adjacent -rocks, for the use of the neighbouring country.</p> -<h4>DINORWIC (PORT)</h4> -<p>Is situate about half way between Bangor and Caernarvon, and -is the shipping place for the Llanberis quarries, belonging to T. -Assheton Smith, Esq., of Vaenol. Upwards of one hundred -tons per day are loaded at the wharf, and the railway by which -they are conveyed is an object of considerable interest.</p> -<h3>DISERTH,<br /> -(<i>Flintshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Holywell</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Rhuddlan</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">2½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>St. Asaph</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>The church of this village stands in a romantic situation, -overshadowed with several large yews. There are some good -<a name="page106"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -106</span>paintings in the south window, and in the chancel is -inscribed, “Sir John Conway, 1636.” The yard -contains some singular tomb-stones; two in particular have a -semi-circular stone upon their tops: also an ancient cross, -adorned with wreaths, and another with some traces of a human -figure, now inserted into the situation as a style. The -latter is supposed to be the remains of Cross Einion, which was -erected on the spot where Einion, son of Risid Flaidd, was slain, -at one of the sieges which the castle sustained.</p> -<p>The castle, called sometimes Gerri Castle, (or Castell y -Graig,) stands on the summit of a high lime-stone rock, at the -distance of half a mile from the village; its remains consist of -a few shattered fragments only. In a field a little to the -south, is a ruinous building called Siamber Wen, (the White -Hall,) said to have been the house of Sir — Pounderling, a -valiant knight, who was constable of the castle, and whose tomb -is still to be seen in Dinmeirchion church. Cwm church, -about a mile distant, is surrounded with hills, and commands a -view of the Vale of Clwyd.</p> -<p>From the top of one of the hills that surrounds the village -issues a water, forming a beautiful cascade, which rises from a -small well, culled Ffynnon-asa, (or St. Asaph’s Well,) in a -dingle in Cwm parish. The height of the cascade is 17 -yards, concealed between two arches of the rock, behind which it -has worn a passage.</p> -<h3>DOLGELLEY,<br /> -(<i>Merionethshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Bala</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Barmouth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">57</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">212</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Machynlleth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Maen Twrog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Towyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">17</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Trawsfynedd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Dolgelley (the Dale of the Hazel) is the principal market town -in Merionethshire, where the assizes are held alternately with -Bala. It is situated in a wide and fertile vale, upon the -river Wnion, over which is a stone bridge of seven arches, -erected in 1638, but thoroughly repaired and enlarged some years -ago. The town is surrounded by high and, in many parts, -wooded mountains.</p> -<p>There are many well-built houses, including a good range, -fronted by shops, called Eldon Row, the property of Sir Robert -Vaughan; but in general the houses are erected with such extreme -<a name="page107"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -107</span>irregularity in regard to each other, as to convey but -a mean idea of the projector’s good taste. The -principal building is the county hall, situated near the river; -it is a neat stone edifice, erected in 1825, at an expense of -£3000. The court room is handsomely fitted up with -necessary accommodations for the officers of justice. In -the hall is a splendid portrait of Sir R. W. Vaughan, Bart. -painted by Sir M. A. Shee, P.R.A.</p> -<p>The county gaol, situated at the outskirts of the town, is a -semicircular edifice of stone, built in 1811, at an expense of -nearly £5000; it includes also the house of correction, and -comprises three day rooms, and four airing yards, and will admit -of a classification of the prisoners into five divisions. -Part of the building in which a parliament was held by Owen -Glyndwr, is still standing among a group of old houses, having -the post-office in front, near the Ship Inn, and is called Cwrt -Plâs yn y Drêv (the town hall court).</p> -<p>The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a neat structure built -of lime-stone, in the Grecian style of architecture, having a -handsome tower and large nave. There is an ancient monument -of an armed knight; he is represented as clad in close mail, -wearing a helmet and neck guard, with a sword in his hand and a -dog at his feet, and a lion passant gardant on his shield, on -which is inscribed, “Hic jacet Mauric, filius Ynyr -Vychan.” There is also a handsome monument lately -erected to the memory of Baron Richards, who was a native of this -parish. In 1836, a neat monument was also erected to the -memory of the late Rev. John Jones, A.M. Archdeacon of -Merioneth. Service is performed here in the English -language, on every alternate Sunday, in the afternoon. The -celebrated antiquary, Robert Vaughan, of Hengwrt, was buried in -this church.</p> -<p>This place has long been noted for the manufacture of coarse -woollen cloth or flannel, called webs, in which a considerable -number of persons are at present employed. There are -several good inns, the Golden Lion, the Angel, and the Ship, at -all of which guides may be obtained to Cader Idris and the -waterfalls. There are also three banks here: the old -Dolgelley bank, a branch of the North and South Wales, and a -branch of the National Provincial.—About three miles from -Dolgelley, on the Machynlleth road, is Caerynwch, the seat of -Richard Richards, Esq. M.P. for this county.</p> -<p>The town is seen to the greatest advantage at the distance <a -name="page108"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 108</span>of about -two miles, on the Machynlleth road; but, like in other Welsh -towns, is only pleasing at a distance. The prospects from a -spot called the Bowling-green are singularly fine. The -threatening summit of Cader Idris, the northern ascent to which -appears nearly perpendicular, lends its mountain sublimity; a -train of subordinate inequalities, stretching their rugged -eminences along its base. But if the town affords so little -to gratify the curiosity of the inquisitive tourist, its -neighbourhood abounds with objects of the most interesting -character. Sir H. Hoare asserts, that he “knows of no -place in the Principality whence so many pleasing and interesting -excursions may be made, and where nature bears so rich, varied, -and grand an aspect, as at Dolgelley.”</p> -<p>A new road leading from Dolgelley to Towyn was recently -opened, by which the very hilly and dangerous route through -Llanegryn is entirely avoided. It passes by Penmaen Pool, -Abergwynnant (the mansion of Sir H. Bunbury), Garthangharad, -Arthog, Ynysfaig, and Henddol, through the village of Llwyngiul, -where there is a very comfortable inn, called the Garthangharad -Arms. From the bridge by Abergwynnant, a most magnificent -view of Cader Idris presents itself; and in going along the -sea-coast opposite to Barmouth, there is a delightful view of -Cardigan Bay, Bardsey Island, and the Caernarvonshire -mountains. The variety, beauty, and extent of prospects on -this road are not surpassed in any part of the -Principality. The highway from Barmouth ferry comes into -this road by Ynysfaig.</p> -<p>The waterfalls in this vicinity are interesting attractions to -the tourist: these are <i>Rhaiadr Dû</i> (the Black -Cataract); <i>Rhaiadr-y-Mawddach</i> (the Fall of the river -Mawddach); <i>Pistyll-y-Cain</i> (the Fall of the Cain). -The first is about five, the two latter about eight miles from -Dolgelley, and all of them near the high road leading towards -Maentwrog. These falls may be classed among the most -magnificent and picturesque cataracts of the Principality.</p> -<h4>Y Vanner, or Kymmer Abbey,</h4> -<p>Stands in its mouldering desolation about a mile and a half -from Dolgelley, and half a mile from Llanilltyd, near the banks -of the Maw. The ruins may be visited by the pedestrian, in -his way to the waterfalls. The abbey was founded in 1198, -by Meredith and Griffith, lords of Merioneth. The monks <a -name="page109"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 109</span>were of the -Cistercian order, and the abbey was dedicated to St. Mary. -Part only of the church of this monastery is left, and the -refectory and abbot’s lodgings are built into an adjoining -farm-house.</p> -<p>Within a few hundred yards of the village of Llanilltyd, in -this parish, on the right of the road from Dolgelley, stands -Hengwrt, the property of Colonel Vaughan, of Rhûg, formerly -the residence of Robert Vaughan, Esq. the eminent antiquary, -author of British Antiquities Revived and other learned -works. The library here contains the largest collection of -Welsh MSS. in existence. It was principally from the MSS. -in this library that Aneurin Owen, Esq. compiled his able Digest -of the Old Welsh Laws.</p> -<h4>Nassau Park.</h4> -<p>About two miles from Dolgelley, is an ancient seat, formerly -belonging to the Nannau family, but now the property and -residence of Sir Robert Williames Vaughan, Bart.</p> -<p>The grounds of Nannau are entered under a fine gateway, the -house being a mile distant from the entrance to the park; which -for picturesque beauty and the calm grandeur of rural scenery, is -not surpassed by any domain in the Principality. Some -romantic traditions also confer additional interest on this -charming scene. In the higher part are the remains of a -British post, called Moel Orthrwm (or the Hill of Oppression), -having probably been held by some notorious tyrant of the olden -time. Here also once stood an immense oak, blasted and -hollowed by time, in which, according to popular belief, Owen -Glyndwr inhumed the fresh-bleeding corpse of his treacherous -cousin, Howel Sele, who had been bribed to make an attempt upon -his life, where it remained concealed for forty years. In -Pennant’s time, the trunk of this patriarchal tree was -twenty-seven feet and a half in circumference; it was in the last -stage of decay, and pierced by age into the form of a Gothic -arch. Its end is thus described by Sir Richard Colt Hoare: -“During a visit to Sir Robert Vaughan, in the summer of the -year 1813, this aged tree, mentioned by Mr. Pennant, attracted my -notice; and in the morning of the 13th of July, I made a drawing -of it, on one of the most sultry days I ever felt; the succeeding -night was equally hot, and on the same night this venerable oak -fell to the ground.”</p> -<p>The gardens at Nannau are very extensive, and laid out with -excellent taste: they contain a number of choice exotics, and <a -name="page110"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 110</span>an -inspection of them proves a source of never-failing gratification -to every lover of horticultural pursuits.</p> -<h4>Angling Stations.</h4> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: center"><i>Distances from -Dolgelley</i>.</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: center"><i>Miles</i>.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Traws-vynydd, on the Bychan</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanvachreth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Hendre Llwyngwr, (<span class="GutSmall">S. W.</span>)</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pont Dolgefiliau, on the Mawddach, (<span -class="GutSmall">N.</span>)</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dol-y-gamedd, on the Wnion</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llyn Cregenan, (<span class="GutSmall">S. W.</span>)</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llyn Gader</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">1½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llyn Geirw, (<span class="GutSmall">S. W.</span>)</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Tal-y-llyn, Cader Idris</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<h3>FFESTINIOG,<br /> -(<i>Merionethshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">25</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Capel Curig</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bala</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">19</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Maentwrog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">2½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Tan-y-Bwlch</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">2½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Tremadoc</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">13</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Ffestiniog is a small but increasing village, standing on -eminence at the head of the beautiful vale of Maentwrog. -The population amounts to 1648, principally employed in the slate -quarries, about four miles from the village. The church is -built in the ancient style of English architecture, and dedicated -to St. Michael. A gallery has recently been erected at the -west end, containing seventy-two free sittings. There are -also several dissenting places of worship, with Sunday schools -attached. A national school for the parishes of Ffestiniog -and Maentwrog, was opened in 1830, in a neat building erected a -short distance from the village on the Maentwrog road. Mrs. -Oakeley, of Tan-y-Bwlch, has lately built and endowed a chapel of -ease near the quarries. It is intended for the convenience -of the inhabitants of the houses that have been built in the -vicinity of the quarries, which are upwards of four miles distant -from the parish church.</p> -<p>There are two good inns, the Pengwern Arms, and the Newborough -Arms; at the former, cars and post horses may be obtained; there -is likewise attached to it a very comfortable boarding-house, -kept by Miss Owen. There is a branch of the North and South -Wales bank here. The roads in this neighbourhood have, of -late, been much improved. A rail road it now completed for -the conveyance of slates to Port Madoc, a distance of about -fourteen miles.</p> -<p><a name="page111"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 111</span>The -scenery of Ffestiniog closely resembles that of St. Helena, and -particularly Sandy Hook Cove. The vale which gives -celebrity to this village has been eulogized by many -distinguished travellers. Mr. Pennant calls it the -“Tempê of the country.” Mr. Warner -observes, “that it comprehends every object that can enrich -or diversify a landscape.” Mr. Wyndham affirms, that -“it affords as rich studies for the painter, as the -neighbourhood of Tivoli or Frascati.” And Lord -Lyttelton, who visited the place about the year 1756, is still -more lavish in his encomiums. More recent travellers have -been equally enthusiastic in their admiration of this pleasant -locality.—About half a mile from Ffestiniog are the</p> -<h4>Falls of the Cynvael.</h4> -<p>One of these is about three hundred yards above, and the other -three hundred yards below a rustic stone bridge, three quarters -of a mile distant. The upper fall consists of three steep -rocks, over which the water foams into a deep black basin, -overshadowed by the adjoining rocks. The other is formed by -a broad sheet of water, precipitated down a slightly shelving -rock, about 40 feet high. After the water has reached the -bottom of the deep concavity, it rushes along a narrow rocky -chasm, where rolling amid the shaggy rocks, it glistens among the -scattered fragments, and falling from slope to slope, gains a -smoother bed, and steals among the mazes of the vale. In -the pools below these falls, there is excellent fishing, the -trout and salmon being very numerous. Between the lower -cataract and the bridge is a tall columnar rock, which stands in -the bed of the river, called <i>Pulpit Hugh Llwyd Cynvael</i> (or -Hugh Lloyd’s Pulpit.)</p> -<p>There are few vales which afford such delightful -prospects. Many of the high mountains bounding its sides, -are shaded by oaks, and the serpentine Dwyryd steals placidly -along the bottom through rich cultivated fields. This -river, at the bottom of the valley, receives the tide, and -expands into a wide lake-like channel, called Traeth Bychan, -where it flows through the sandy estuary of Traeth Bach, and into -Cardigan bay, the sea at a distance closing the view.</p> -<p>The village of <span class="smcap">Maentwrog</span> is -delightfully situated near the middle of the vale.—About -four miles distant, among the hills, is</p> -<h4><a name="page112"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -112</span>Cwm-orddin Lake.</h4> -<p>This and several other lakes are notable for the excellent -sport they afford for angling. Of these, a gentleman who is -fond of this diversion, and who has visited those parts, has -kindly furnished us with the following -information:—“The fish in Cwm-orddin Lake (says he) -rise more eagerly to flies than any I ever saw. The fish -are rather small, and not good for the table. The two best -stations for angling, are, first, where the boat is kept; second, -the head of the lake. Throw among the weeds, fearlessly, as -they always come away with a pull.</p> -<h4>Llyn Morwynion,</h4> -<p>Contains excellent fish, both in size and quality, but they -are very shy: it is about two miles from Ffestiniog, near the -Capel Curig road.—No boat.</p> -<h4>Llyn Maonod,</h4> -<p>About two miles and a half from Ffestiniog, contains most -excellent trout, far less shy than those of Morwynion. No -boat.—There is a small lake just below the summit of Moel -Wyn, which may be tried by any one wishing to combine a fine -extensive view with sport. No boat.—Llyn Conway is at -times difficult of access round its banks, being marshy. No -boat.—There are two or three lakes on the right of the road -to Bala. My opinion is, that without a boat the angler will -do little on a lake. I would recommend, therefore, a very -long rod when you must fish from shore. There is good -salmon fishing in the river that runs past Maentwrog. In -the beginning of June, I found the sand fly excellent for the -lakes.”</p> -<h3>FLINT,<br /> -(<i>Flintshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holywell</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">200</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mold</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Flint is a borough, market-town, and sea-port, and a parochial -chapelry in the parish of Northop, and is the ancient capital of -the county: it contains a population of 2860 inhabitants. -Although it cannot be identified with any Roman station mentioned -in the Itineraries, it was nevertheless either of Roman or -Roman-British origin, as is proved from the circumstance of its -even now occupying a rectangular entrenched area, <a -name="page113"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 113</span>like that -of a Roman place of defence, and by the discovery, at various -times, both here and in the neighbourhood, of Roman coins, -fibulæ, &c., while at the same time it is traditionally -related that a very large town existed here at an early -period.</p> -<p>The town is situated on the shore of the estuary of the Dee, -opposite to Parkgate, to which ferry-boats ply daily from -Flint. It consists of four principal streets, crossing each -other at right angles; the buildings, however, are very inferior -in appearance. The town-hall, and gaol where the county -prisoners are kept, are tolerable structures, but the assizes are -held at Mold, six miles distant. Close to the town are -extensive collieries, in which several hundred men are constantly -employed, and 1,500 tons of coal are raised weekly: rail-roads -have been constructed to convey the coal to the wharfs, whence it -is sent coastwise to Chester, and to various parts of North -Wales. The principal exports, in addition to the vast -quantity of coal, are the produce of the lead works in the -vicinity, consisting of lead in pigs, bars, sheets, and patent -pipes; red lead, litharge, and silver.</p> -<p>For the convenience of persons who visit Flint, hot baths have -been constructed, and are provided with every requisite -accommodation. The Royal Oak and the Ship may be considered -inns of the second order. The government of the town was -vested in a mayor, the constable of the castle (appointed by -letters patent), two bailiffs, a recorder, and twelve capital -burgesses, assisted by a mace-bearer, and other officers, elected -annually, until the municipal Reform Act superseded the -charters. It is one of the contributory boroughs, which, in -conjunction with Caergwrle, Caerwys, Overton, Rhuddlan, St. -Asaph, Holywell, and Mold, return one member to parliament. -There are daily ferry-boats plying between Flint and Chester, at -the low rate of six-pence for each passenger.</p> -<h4>The Castle.</h4> -<p>The remains of this ancient structure stand upon a rock in the -marsh at the bottom of the town, and so near the river, that at -high water the walls are washed by the tide. It has been a -square building, with a tower at each angle, considerable remains -of every one of which are yet left. The tower at the -south-east corner, which is called the Double Tower, is much -larger than the others. In its outward diameter it measures -<a name="page114"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 114</span>forty -feet; it is formed by two concentric walls, each six feet thick, -having a gallery eight feet wide included between them, and -leaving a circular area of about twenty feet in diameter, into -which there was an entry from the gallery by four doors. -This appears to have been the keep. The interior of the -castle is a square court, containing about an acre of -ground. In the curtain on the west side, there are yet left -several windows with pointed arches.</p> -<p>Antiquarians are undecided as to the founder of Flint castle, -some asserting that it was commenced by Henry the Second, and -completed by Edward the First; while others affirm that it was -entirely the work of the latter. It was alternately in -possession of the Welsh and English princes during the various -vicissitudes which distinguished the wars of that period; and in -1399 was the scene of the betrayal of the unfortunate monarch, -Richard the Second, by Percy, Earl of Northumberland, into the -power of his ambitious rival, Bolingbroke, the “aspiring -Lancaster.” Under the insidious pretence that -Bolingbroke, who was waiting for the king at Flint, desired only -to have his property restored, and that the kingdom should have a -parliament, Northumberland met Richard at Conway, where he had -gone after his return from Ireland; and they were journeying -together, when, among the recesses of the mountains near Penmaen -Rhôs, the latter observed a band of soldiers. Alarmed -for his safety, and now fearful of the snare that was laid for -him, he attempted to return; but Percy, springing forward, caught -his horse’s bridle, and forcibly directed his course. -They dined together at Rhuddlan castle, and arrived on the same -evening at Flint. The next day, “after dinner, (says -Stowe) the Duke of Lancaster entered the castle all armed, his -basinet excepted. King Richard came down to meet him; and -the duke, as soon as he saw the king, fell down on his knees, and -coming near unto him, he kneeled a second time with his hat in -his hand; and the king then put off his hoode, and spoke first: -‘Fair cousin of Lancaster, you are right -welcome.’ The duke, bowing low to the ground, -answered, ‘My lord, I am come before you sent for me; the -reason why I shall shew you. The common fame among your -people is such, that ye have for the space of twenty or -two-and-twenty years, ruled them very rigorously; but, if it -please our lord, I will help you to govern better!’ -The duke then, with a high sharp voice, bade bring forth the -king’s horses, and two little nagges, not worth fourtie <a -name="page115"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 115</span>franks, -were brought forthe: the king was set on the one, and the Earl of -Salisbury on the other; and thus the duke brought them from Flint -to Chester;” whence, after a night’s rest, they were -marched to London, and made a public entry into the metropolis, -under those moving circumstances which are so exquisitely -narrated by Shakspere in his tragedy of Richard the Second.</p> -<p>In the civil wars, Flint castle was garrisoned for the king, -by Sir Roger Mostyn, and was defended with great bravery, but was -at last surrendered to General Mytton. In August, 1646, it -was ordered to be dismantled, with Hawarden and several other -fortresses, and has since fallen into utter decay, though its -ruins present towards the sea a somewhat imposing appearance.</p> -<h3>GRESFORD,<br /> -(<i>Denbighshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Wrexham</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Gresford is a beautiful village, situated on the western side -of the road from Wrexham to Chester, near the head of a romantic -valley, which opens into the Vale Royal of Cheshire, a tract of -country remarkable for the richness of its soil, the beauty of -its scenery, and the diversified views which it presents. -The little vale of Gresford was one of the most lovely in the -Principality; but the fiery dragons of the Shrewsbury and Chester -Railway have now invaded its tranquil retreats, and marred the -picturesque charms of this locality.</p> -<p>On one of the richly wooded eminences overlooking the vale, -stands Gresford Church, a truly noble and admirable specimen of -ecclesiastical architecture, in the late perpendicular style, -which was probably built during the latter part of the reign of -Henry the Seventh. No tourist, who has the least taste for -ecclesiology, should neglect to examine this sacred edifice, -which exhibits in its construction a combination of beauties that -never fail to command the eulogiums of the intelligent and -discriminating. Its appearance is also much enhanced by the -scenery around it, and those only who are familiar with the -vicinity can feel how admirably the church harmonises with the -country. Its melodious peal of bells was once reckoned -among the seven wonders of North Wales; but wonders <a -name="page116"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 116</span>since those -days have become more plentiful, and some people say the peal is -actually deteriorated. In the churchyard is a remarkable -yew tree, 30 feet in girth, which botanists say is more than 2000 -years old. This tree attracts even as much notice as the -church itself.</p> -<p>Deeply sheltered in the vale, is Gresford Lodge, the elegant -seat of Mrs. W. Egerton. Upper Gwersyllt Hall, on the banks -of the Alyn, was the residence of Colonel Robinson, a -distinguished partizan of the unfortunate Charles the First, who -was interred in Gresford church in 1680. Lower Gwersyllt -was occupied by another zealous adherent of that prince, Jefferey -Shakerley.</p> -<p>From the top of Marford Hill, on the road towards Chester, is -a most magnificent and extensive view of the vale of Cheshire, -the “old city,” and the river Dee. In the -immediate vicinity of the village, is an eminence called the -Rofts, formerly a British camp, treble-trenched, having at one -corner a lofty mount or keep.</p> -<p>Angling station.—The river Alyn.</p> -<h3>HANMER,<br /> -(<i>Flintshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Ellesmere</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Wrexham</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This village, which forms a detached portion of Flintshire, -takes its name from a spacious mere or lake, in form resembling a -human hand, on one side of which the village is pleasantly -situated. It stands on the road betwixt Wrexham and -Whitchurch. The lake occupies a space of 73 acres, on one -side of which stands the family mansion of Sir John Hanmer, and -on the other the seat of Lord Kenyon. In the church is a -handsome monument, erected in 1806, to the memory of Lord Chief -Justice Kenyon, who was born at Gredington, in the -vicinity. There is another monument in honour of Sir Thomas -Hanmer, who was Speaker of the House of Commons in the reign of -Queen Anne.</p> -<p>Hanmer is distinguished by the Welsh, as being the birthplace -of their celebrated bard, Davydd ab Edmund, who at an Eisteddvod, -held at Caermarthen, in 1451, won the bardic chair, and through -his superior eloquence obtained the sanction <a -name="page117"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 117</span>of that -congress to his twenty-four canons of Welsh poetry, by which the -“science” has, in a great measure, been governed ever -since.</p> -<h3>HARLECH,<br /> -(<i>Merionethshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Barmouth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">229</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Maen-Twrog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Penmorfa, across sands</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Tan-y-Bwlch</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Tremadoc, across sands</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Do. through Tan-y-Bwlch</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Harlech, or Harddlech, is an inconsiderable place, situated -upon a barren rock, containing four or five hundred inhabitants; -it is the county town of Merionethshire, and all elections for a -representative in parliament take place here. Its name is -derived from its situation, originally called Twr Bronwen, and -afterwards Caer Collwyn, from Collwyn ap Tagno, who resided there -about 877. Harlech castle stands on a rocky eminence, close -by the marshy tract between the hills and Cardigan bay, bearing -it is said a strong resemblance to the Turkish castle of -Belgrade. It consists of one large square building, each -side measuring about 70 yards, having a round tower at the -several corners, crowned with turrets now nearly defaced. -The walls, now clad with ivy, are lofty and of great thickness, -from the summit of which a most splendid and sublime prospect may -be commanded, including a vast extent of marine and mountain -scenery.</p> -<p>According to ancient history, this castle was built by -Maelgwyn Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, about 530, and Edward I. -founded the present fortress upon the ruins of the old -building. It was completed in 1283. In 1404, this -castle, with that of Aberystwyth, was seized by Owen Glyndwr, -during his contest with Henry IV. They were both retaken, -about four years afterwards, by an army which the king despatched -into Wales. Margaret of Anjou, the haughty queen of Henry -VI., after the king’s defeat at Northampton, in 1460, fled -from Coventry, and found an asylum in this fortress.</p> -<p>In the civil wars of Charles I. Harlech castle was the last in -North Wales which held out for the king. Near this place is -a curious antique monument, called Coeten Arthur, or King -Arthur’s Quoit, which is a large flat stone, lying -horizontally, supported by two others. The supporters are -about twenty inches square, two of them are eight feet high, and -the incumbent <a name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -118</span>stone, inclining to an oval, is eleven feet in -length. Col. Vaughan, of Rhûg, is constable of the -castle.</p> -<p>In the winter of 1694, this neighbourhood was greatly alarmed -by a kind of fiery exhalation, or mephitic vapour, which arose -from a sandy marshy tract of land, called Morfa Bychan (the -little marsh), across the channel, eight miles towards Harlech, -and injured much of the country, by poisoning the grass in such a -manner as to kill the cattle, and to set fire to hay and corn -ricks for near a mile from the coast. It is represented to -have had the appearance of a weak blue flame, which by any noise, -such as the firing of guns, or the sounding of a horn, was easily -extinguished. All the damage was done invariably in the -night, and in the course of the winter not less than sixteen hay -ricks and two barns, one filled with corn and the other with hay, -were burnt by it. It did not appear to affect anything -else, and the men could go into it without receiving any -injury. It was observed at different times during eight -months. The occasion of this singular phenomenon has never -been satisfactorily accounted for.</p> -<p>In 1692, a golden torque, which is now placed amongst the -admirable collection of Welsh antiquities at Mostyn, was -discovered near Harlech. It is in the form of a wreathed -bar of gold, highly polished, twisted, and flexible. It is -hooked at both ends, and about four feet long.</p> -<p>From Harlech an excursion may be made to Cwm Bychan (the -little hollow), about four miles distant.—One mile from the -town may be seen a circle of stones, thirty yards in diameter, -probably one of those druidic circles in which were held the -<i>gorseddau</i>, or bardic meetings. Cwm Bychan is a -grassy dell, about half a mile in length, surrounded by desolate -scenery. On the right, at its entrance, is the small pool -called Llyn y Cym Bychan, from the edge of which Carreg y Saeth -(the Rock of the Arrow), towers in dreary blackness; yet the -landscape extends hence in great magnificence. Descending -into the hollow, past an ancient mansion, and ascending on the -other side, a deep mountain hollow occurs, called Bwlch -Tyddiad. Passing upon this rocky cleft beyond the higher -mountains, a fine prospect of all the country eastward suddenly -opens, bounded by the majestic Cader Idris, the two Arrenigs, and -other ranges of commanding grandeur.</p> -<p>Out of the track, two miles south of Harlech, is a cromlech, -in a farm called Gwern Einion; and on the side of the hill, <a -name="page119"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 119</span>where the -road passes, in the recesses of a wood, is a considerable -cataract. Between the cromlech and the town of Harlech is -another druidic circle.</p> -<p>At the ebb of the tide, part of a long stone wall, which runs -out into the sea from Machran, a point of land a few miles south -of Harlech, may be seen. It extends in a <span -class="GutSmall">W.S.W.</span> direction for nearly twenty miles, -and is called Sarn Badrig, or Sarn Badrwyg (the Shipwrecking -Causeway), an astonishing work, being throughout 24 feet -thick. Sarn y Bwlch runs from a point <span -class="GutSmall">N.W.</span> of Harlech, and is supposed to meet -the end of this. The space between is said to have formed, -several centuries ago, a habitable hundred of Merionethshire, -called Cantref Gwaelod (the Lowland Hundred). Those walls, -as it is supposed, were built to keep out the sea.</p> -<p>The principal inn is the Blue Lion, where post chaises may be -had, and a guide procured to conduct the tourist to the many -objects of attraction in the neighbourhood. The parish -church having become very dilapidated, a new one, more -conveniently situated, has been built, on a site given by the -late Sir R. W. Vaughan, of Nannau. It was consecrated in -1841; the expense of its erection being defrayed by -subscriptions, aided by grants from the Incorporated Society for -building and repairing Churches, and from the Bangor Diocesan -Church Building Society. The service is occasionally -performed in the English language.</p> -<h4>Angling Stations.</h4> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: center"><i>Distance from -Harlech</i>.</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: center"><i>Miles</i>.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanvihangel, on the Dwyryd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanbedr, on the Bychan</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p><i>Lakes</i>.—Llyn y Vedw</p> -</td> -<td style='vertical-align: middle' rowspan='3'><p>near the -Dwyryd.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p> Llyn Eidaw</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p> Llyn Glyn</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p> Llyn y Cym Bychan</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p> Llyn Trewyn.</p> -</td> -<td></td> -</tr> -</table> -<h3>HAWARDEN,<br /> -(<i>Flintshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Flint</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holywell</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Northop</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This prosperous little town, pronounced Harden, consists of -one continuous street, more than half a mile long, and has a neat -and cleanly appearance. The British name was <i>Pennardd -</i><a name="page120"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -120</span><i>Halawg</i>, or <i>Pennardd-y-Lâg</i>, -corrupted probably from <i>Pen-y-Lwch</i> (the head-land above -the lake), the surrounding marshes having been once covered by -the sea. It has a weekly market and the population of the -parish is rated at somewhat above 6000 inhabitants. The -Glynne Arms is the principal inn where the traveller may be -comfortably accommodated.</p> -<p>Extensive collieries are worked in this parish, and there are -also several large brick and tile works, besides numerous -potteries for the manufacture of the coarser kind of -earthenware. An extensive foundry is carried on at Hawarden -by Messrs. Williams & Co., and has become celebrated for the -manufacture of steam-engines, iron steam-boats, and other works -of mechanical science which modern enterprise has brought into -active requisition. The river Dee, or Chester channel, -passes within about two miles of the town, and thus affords every -facility of water conveyance.</p> -<p>The living is a “peculiar,” in the patronage of -Sir S. R. Glynne, and of which the Rev. H. Glynne is the -rector. Its value, according to the “Liber -Ecelesiasticus,” is £2844. The church, -dedicated to St. Deiniol, is an ancient and spacious structure, -with a square embattled tower. It was thoroughly repaired -in 1764, and the chancel was almost entirely rebuilt in 1817, at -an expense of £1400, jointly defrayed by the Hon. and Rev. -George Neville Grenville, then rector, the late Lord Amesbury, -and the inhabitants. Various restorations and improvements -have also been effected by the present rector.</p> -<p>Hawarden has likewise the advantage of an endowed grammar -school. The parish is very extensive, and besides the -church just noticed, contains three others; all in admirable -condition, and remarkable for the exemplary order and efficiency -with which the services of our holy liturgy are solemnized. -There is one at Broughton, another at Buckley, which has lately -been repaired and beautified; and a third at Pen-y-mynydd, which -is an elegant and perfect specimen of architecture. It was -built at the cost of Sir S. R. Glynne, Bart. M.P., and was -consecrated in 1843. With each of these churches, -commodious schools are connected; and indeed, the ecclesiastical -establishments, within the peculiar of Hawarden, are worthy of -all praise. Hawarden Park, one of the most charming and -picturesque of the many noble domains scattered through the -Principality, is remarkable for the extreme verdure and softness -of its grass, the majestic stateliness of its trees, the calm -solitudes <a name="page121"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -121</span>of its glens, and the combined loveliness and sublimity -of its landscape scenery. It is also a spot of much -historical interest; as within its territory, stand the ivy-clad -ruins of an ancient castle, which, in past ages, was a fortress -of great importance.</p> -<p>Little more than fragments of the former towers and keep -remain; indeed, a considerable portion of the ruin was itself -obscured by heaps of rubbish, till the late Sir John Glynne had -them removed, and the foundations laid open to view. It was -constructed in a pentagonal form; on one side was a spacious -gateway, and on the other a kind of barbican. At one angle -was situated the keep or citadel, a circular tower still nearly -entire, and which forms one of the most picturesque objects that -strike the eye on first approaching ‘its ancient solitary -reign.’ Other portions consist of the relics of the -vast mouldering walls—of massive <i>donjons</i>,—and, -in one part, of a long flight of steps, at the bottom of which -was a door and a draw-bridge, crossing a ravine to another -division of the castle, embracing, most probably, the prison, -thus fearfully secured.</p> -<p>On all sides it was surrounded by deep chasms and fosses, and, -from its extensive plan and broad foundations, it has the -appearance of having been erected at different periods—of -having been sometimes defaced and at others restored, according -to the vicissitudes and fortunes of war.</p> -<p>Dating soon after the Conquest, it came into possession of -Roger Fitzvalerine, a son of one of the adventurers who followed -the Norman Conqueror. It was subsequently held, on the -tenure of seneschalship, by the family of Monthault, of the Earls -of Chester, and finally annexed by Henry the Third to the -crown. After this it came into the possession of Prince -Llywelyn, and was stormed by his brother David. On the -subjection of the country, Hawarden was granted to the house of -Salisbury, and afterwards to that of Stanley. From Thomas, -Earl of Derby, it descended to his second wife Margaret, Countess -of Richmond, and mother of Henry the Seventh. In 1495, that -monarch is stated to have honoured the castle with a visit, to -enjoy the pleasures of the chase; but his real motive was to -ingratiate himself with the Earl her husband, after the -ungrateful act of executing his brother Sir William Stanley, to -whose assistance he was mainly indebted for the crown. The -estates continued in the family till the execution of James Earl -of Derby, in 1651; and, not long after, they were purchased <a -name="page122"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 122</span>by Sergeant -Glynne, from the Commissioners of Sequestration.</p> -<p>It was at Hawarden that the ambitious Earl of Leicester, after -securing the persons of the King and his son Edward, entered into -that fatal league with Llywelyn which compelled Henry to -surrender the sovereignty of Wales, with the homage of its -baronial suffrages, which were transferred to the Welsh -prince. In the last struggle for independence, it was -surprised by David, his brother, on the night of Palm Sunday, and -the entire garrison put to the sword. This prince had acted -with equal perfidy towards Edward the First, his benefactor, and -towards Llywelyn.</p> -<p>From the now broken towers of Hawarden, there is a vast and -most magnificent prospect, embracing a wide sweep of country, -from the Vale Royal of Cheshire to the estuaries of the Dee and -the Mersey.</p> -<p>The modern mansion of Hawarden Park, the seat of Sir S. R. -Glynne, Bart. M.P., Lord Lieutenant of Flintshire, is a stately -structure, erected by Sir John Glynne in 1752. In 1809 it -received some magnificent additions, and then assumed the form of -a castellated edifice, with antique-looking windows and -turrets. The pleasure-grounds are beautiful and -extensive.</p> -<p>To the west of Hawarden church, in a field near to the -turnpike-road, is an artificial mount of earth, which Mr. Pennant -conjectures to have been a small camp. Tradition says, it -was raised as a fortification, to prevent Henry the Second from -advancing by this pass into Wales, in 1157. The prospects -therefrom are delightfully grand, comprehending a view of Chester -and the entire course of the silvery Dee from the old city to the -Irish channel.—About two miles from Hawarden stands</p> -<h4>Buckley Mountain.</h4> -<p>which has now become the thriving seat of a large population -engaged in the collieries; and in the manufacture of earthenware, -draining tiles, and fire-bricks; all of which are held in high -repute, and consequently command an extensive trade.</p> -<h4>Ewloe Castle</h4> -<p>is distant from Hawarden about two miles, and stands a quarter -of a mile to the right from the turnpike-road leading thence to -Northop. This interesting and lonely ruin does not discover -<a name="page123"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 123</span>itself -by lofty towers, but will require some trouble to find it, as it -is concealed on the east, west, and south, by the adjoining -grounds, and embosomed in trees to the north, without any visible -way of approach, save up the streamlet, which passes at its foot, -and discharges itself into the estuary of the Dee, about two -miles and a half below. Pennant designates this structure a -small fortress, but from its present appearance it seems better -calculated for the retirement or resort of a gang of desperate -marauders, than for any military purpose. The towers are -now finely overgrown with ivy, and command the view of three -wooded glens, forming a gloomy solitude. The time of its -erection is involved in some obscurity.—In the woods, near -this place, called to this day,</p> -<h4>Coed Ewloe,</h4> -<p>part of the flower of the army detached by Henry the Second, -in 1157, from his camp on Saltney, was surprised and defeated by -David and Conan, the sons of Owen Gwynedd, sent by their father -with a strong party from his camp near Basingwerk. They -suffered the enemy to march along the straits of the country, -till their forces were entangled in the depth of the woods and -the steeps of the narrow valleys. The attack was fierce, -sudden, and unexpected: the slaughter dreadful; and the pursuit -carried even to Henry’s encampment. This proved to -the English but a prelude to a second defeat. The king, -with intent to repair the disgrace, marched forward with his -whole army; and at Coleshill, near Flint, suffered himself to be -entrapped into the same dilemma which his detachment had before -experienced. His forces were again defeated, and several of -his chiefs, with numbers of his men, slain. Henry de Essex, -hereditary standard-bearer, and a man of approved valour, was -seized with a panic, and throwing down the standard, cried out -the king was killed. The route would have been general, if -the king had not valiantly rallied his forces, and repulsed the -Welsh; but in the end he thought it prudent to withdraw his army, -and encamp in a more secure situation. He afterwards -attempted to cut off the retreat of Owen Gwynedd by marching -along the shore, and placing himself between him and the -mountains; but the sagacious prince, penetrating his views, -retired to a plain near St. Asaph, still called Cil Owen (or -Owen’s Retreat), and thence to a strong post, called -Brin-y-Pin, defended by great ramparts and ditches.</p> -<h3><a name="page124"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -124</span>HOLT,<br /> -(<i>Denbighshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Wrexham</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>A small village, on the west bank of the Dee, was once a -market town, and a place of some consequence; yet, even in its -decayed and delapidated state, it has for its governor a mayor -and two bailiffs.—The two villages of Holt and Farndon are -separated only by the river, and communicate by a bridge of ten -arches, built in 1345. The Dee at this place divides -England from Wales; Farndon being in Cheshire, and Holt in -Denbighshire.</p> -<h3>HOLYHEAD,<br /> -(<i>Anglesea</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Amlwch</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bangor</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">24</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Beaumaris</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">27</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">86</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dublin</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">60</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London, by Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">266</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This place, which is of very remote antiquity, derives its -Welsh name, Caer Gybi, implying the fortress or city of Cybi -(pronounced Kubby), from its situation on a small island at the -western extremity of Anglesea, called Ynys Cybi, for many years -the residence of a British saint of that name, who is said to -have been the son of Solomon Duke of Cornwall. Its -population in 1841, was 3869 inhabitants.</p> -<p>Owing to the very extensive intercourse which now subsists -between Great Britain and Ireland, the town has, within the last -few years, rapidly increased in extent and improved in -appearance. From its advantageous situation, it has been -selected as the principal station of the post-office packets, for -conveying the mails to Dublin; and among other improvements, a -new line of road has been constructed under the walls of the -town, along the margin of the traeth, or sandy estuary, which -forms the harbour, extending more than a mile along an artificial -embankment, from the entrance of the town to the commencement of -the pier. This pier extends from the small island, called -Ynys Halen, or Salt Island, in an east south-easterly direction -into the sea, and is 360 yards in length. It is connected -with the main land by a handsome iron bridge of one arch, -dividing the centre, and each part turning on a swivel to afford -a passage on either side. Beyond this bridge are the <a -name="page125"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -125</span>engineer’s house, the custom house, the -harbour-master’s offices, and the depôt for the -post-office stores: further on is a grand triumphal arch, built -by subscription of the gentry of the county of Anglesey, to -commemorate the circumstance of the royal squadron having -anchored in Holyhead bay, on the night of the 6th of August, -1821, and the landing of his majesty George IV. on the following -day. The grand terminus of the Chester and Holyhead railway -will be on the site of the present pier, and it has been resolved -by government to make a packet station and harbour of refuge, -equal to the wants of the whole Irish channel, and upon a most -extensive and magnificent scale, from designs made by the -celebrated engineer, Mr. Rendel. When the railway and -harbour improvements are completed, the transit between London -and Dublin will be accomplished in thirteen hours.</p> -<p>The triumphal arch, which was opened in August, 1824, is a -chaste and elegant structure of Mona marble, brought from the -Red-wharf Quarry, and consists of a central carriage way, -separated on each side by two handsome pillars of the Doric order -from a footway, enclosed by a wall ornamented at the extremities -with antæ of correspondent character, the whole twenty feet -high, and supporting a boldly projecting cornice, surmounted by -three diminishing tiers of masonry, forming a platform. -Over the carriage-way, on each side, is a large entablature, -respectively bearing inscriptions in Welsh and Latin, -commemorative of the event.</p> -<p>The lighthouse is built entirely of hewn stone, and without -any other timber than what was necessary for the door cases and -window frames. It consists of three stories, the ceilings -of which are groined, and the gloves are of smooth stone: its -base is six feet above high water mark, and is protected from the -sea by a stone glacis. The tower, which is circular, is -thirty-three feet in height to the gallery, and the lantern, -which is ten feet higher, is lighted with twenty brilliant lights -of oil gas, having reflectors plated with silver, and displaying -a strong white light, which, being at an elevation of fifty feet -above the level of the sea, affords a safe guide to vessels -approaching the harbour. The whole of these works were -completed at an expense of about £130,000, and a graving -dock was constructed at an additional expense of -£12,000.</p> -<p>The post-office establishment at this place consists of six -steam packets of 230 tons burden, which sail regularly from <a -name="page126"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 126</span>this port -and Kingstown, keeping up a constant intercourse between the two -countries.</p> -<p>No manufactures are carried on at this place: several attempts -have been made at considerable expense to explore the mineral -treasures with which the parish was supposed to abound, but -nothing of importance has yet been discovered, except veins of -Mona marble, called “verd antique,” which have been -worked to some extent. The trade consists chiefly in the -building of coasting vessels, the repairing of all the post -office steam packets belonging to the several ports of England -and Wales, and the making of ropes and cables. The market -is on Saturday. The North and South Wales bank has a branch -here.</p> -<p>The church, dedicated to St. Cybi, is a spacious cruciform -structure, principally in the decorated style of English -architecture.</p> -<p>The promontory called the Head, by which the harbour is -sheltered from the westerly winds, presents a singular aspect, -its sides towards the sea forming in some parts immense -perpendicular precipices, while in others they are worn, by the -continued action of the waves, into caverns of magnificent and -romantic appearance. Of these, one called the -“parliament house,” is accessible only by boats at -half ebb ride, and consists of a series of receding arches, -supported by massive and lofty pillars of rock, displaying an -interior of picturesque beauty and sublime grandeur. Some -of these caverns afford shelter for gulls, razor-bills, herons, -cormorants, and other birds; and the loftiest crags are -frequented by the peregrine falcon. The eggs of these birds -are in great request as a delicacy for the table; and some of the -hardiest inhabitants are employed in the hazardous task of -procuring them for sale.</p> -<p>There are several ancient military forts in the neighbourhood, -whose appearance indicates them to be of Roman origin. At a -small distance westerly is a large hill, having several natural -and artificial curiosities. Within about 200 yards of the -top are the remains of a strong wall, which seem to have -belonged, as well as the churchyard walls, to a place of defence -against the frequent incursions of the Irish. To the <span -class="GutSmall">W. S. W.</span> of the top, and nearly under it, -in a situation awfully romantic, are the remains of a -chapel. From the top of this mountain there is a most -extensive view, comprehending the Isle of Man, the hill of Howth -on the Irish coast, and parts of the Highlands of Scotland.</p> -<p><a name="page127"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 127</span>Many -gold Roman coins of the time of later emperors were found a few -years ago in Holyhead mountain; and in 1835, in removing some old -walls at Ty Mawr (Great House), the property of Lord Stanley, of -Alderley, were found several spear heads, axes, and rings, of -bronze, with red amber blades, which from the form and the nature -of the materials, appear to be of Phœnician origin. -At Trefigreeth, another farm belonging to the Stanley family, -situated within a quarter of a mile of the London and Holyhead -road, about one mile from the town, is a small but perfect -cromlech. A larger one, in great preservation, may be seen -at Presadwaedd, about four miles from Holyhead. And at -Tywyn-y-Capel, about two miles from Holyhead, on the old post -road, and close to the sea, is a very singular mound, on the top -of which, a few years ago, were the remains of a small -chapel. The mound is artificial, being formed of sea -sand. It is filled with graves. The coffins are -formed of rude flat stones, and are placed in rows above each -other. They contain the remains of persons of both -sexes. The sea every year makes encroachments upon it, -laying open the graves and strewing the shore with bones. -Tradition is silent as to the origin of this singular place of -burial. It is worth the investigation of the antiquary.</p> -<p>The South Stack Light-house is connected with the harbour, and -materially contributes to facilitate its access. It is -erected on the summit of an isolated rock, three or four miles -westward from Holyhead, and separated from the main land by a -chasm 90 feet in width. This splendid structure was raised -in the year 1808. The elevation of the summit of the rock -on which it is erected, is 140 feet above the level of the sea at -high water mark; the height of the tower, from the base to the -gallery, is 60 feet; and the lantern is 12 feet high from the -gallery; making the total elevation of the light 212 feet above -high water mark. The light is produced by twenty-one -brilliant lamps, with powerful reflectors placed on a revolving -triangular frame, displaying a full-faced light every two -minutes, which, in clear weather, is distinctly visible at a -distance of ten leagues. Latterly there has been an -addition of three red lights placed at the rock, which are more -distinctly visible in foggy weather than the light-house -lights. The rough sea caused by the strong tides, about the -head, rendered the communication by boat very precarious. -In order to obviate the danger, a passage was contrived by means -of two <a name="page128"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -128</span>ropes thrown across the gulph, along which the -individual was drawn in a box or cradle, by the assistance of -pulleys affixed at each end. This plan was superseded by a -bridge of ropes, which was used some years after, though always -considered unsafe, on account of the constant wear of the -ropes. In 1827, a modern suspension chain bridge was thrown -over the sound, the span of which is 110 feet, the chains being -firmly bolted in the rock on each side, and carried over two -massive stone pillars erected for the purpose. The chain -supports a platform of timber five feet wide, and 70 feet above -high water mark. The bridge is attained by descending the -Holyhead mountain in a zigzag direction, by a flight of 380 -steps.</p> -<p>On the rocks south of the harbour of Holyhead, and commanding -the town, an obelisk has been erected by public subscription to -the memory of the late Captain Skinner, formerly master of one of -the post-office packets on this station, who lost his life by -being washed overboard in 1833. He was very generally -respected, and had been a commander on this station for many -years.</p> -<p>To the <span class="GutSmall">N. E.</span> is the Isle of -Skerries, on which there is also a light-house.</p> -<p>There are several good inns at Holyhead, the principal of -which is the Eagle and Child Hotel.</p> -<p>For romantic wildness and stern grandeur of aspect, no place -can surpass this portion of the iron-bound coast of Anglesea.</p> -<p> </p> -<h3>HOLYWELL,<br /> -(<i>Flintshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Denbigh</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Flint</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">201</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mold</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Northop</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Rhuddlan</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>St. Asaph</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Holywell, called by the Welsh Trêffynnon, (or the Town -of the Well,) is an improving and pleasantly-situated place, on -the great road from Chester to Holyhead; the town and parish -containing a population of 10,834, with a crowded market on the -Friday.</p> -<p>But before going into any topographical particulars, we must -introduce our readers to the legend of the miraculous well of the -famous St. Winefred, as put into an agreeable narrative by Miss -Costello:—</p> -<blockquote><p><a name="page129"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -129</span>We stopped at a remarkably good inn, and lost no time -in going down the steep hill at the bottom of which the pretty -little chapel over the fine well is situated. Nothing can -be more secluded and pleasing than its position by the side of -the handsome church with its low churchyard, all placed in a deep -hollow, so removed from the upper town, that the bells summoning -to prayer cannot be heard above, and a ringer is accustomed to go -about the town with the large bell slung round his shoulders, and -a cushion on his knee, against which the bell beats as he walks, -and proclaims his holy errand. This old custom, doubtless -of considerable antiquity, is still kept up, and we are glad -that, being there on a Sunday, we were able to see the -perambulating belfry.</p> -<p>Margaret, the mother of Henry VII., erected the graceful -chapel whose fretted roof is the boast of Holywell, but one had -existed long before her time; for the miracle of St. Winefred -happened, according to the monks of the Basingwerk, to whom the -world is indebted for the legend, early in the seventh century, -and is thus told:</p> -<p>Winefred, a beautiful and devout virgin, lived in the reign of -an imaginary king, and was of noble birth, and the niece of a man -whose sanctity had already made him conspicuous, and who was -known as the good Beuno. A prince of the country, whose -name was Caradoc, saw the fair damsel, and loved her; but his -passion was not so pure as her goodness ought to have -inspired. Even then there was a chapel at the foot of the -hill, where, while Beuno was at the altar praying with certain of -the inhabitants of the neighbouring town, amongst whom were the -parents of Winefred, to the astonishment of all, a head rolled -and bounded into the sacred inclosure, and stopped at the -altar. Beuno stooped to raise up the head, and observed -that where it had rested, instead of the pool of blood which was -there but an instant before, a stream of crystal water had sprung -up. His amazement was increased when he found that the -beautiful features and golden hair of the head he gazed upon were -those of his beloved niece. He hastened from the spot, and -mounting the hill, discovered her mutilated body lying prostrate, -and the cruel prince Caradoc flying with a drawn sword in his -hand. The truth became clear to him at once. Winefred -had fled from the importunities of the prince who, pursuing, had -wreaked his vengeance on her by cutting off her head. The -saint, for such Beuno afterwards <a name="page130"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 130</span>became, immediately with devout -prayers joined the severed head to the body, when, to the awe and -delight of all beholders, the virgin arose, as if from sleep, -uninjured and lovely as ever, nor was there a trace left of the -accident but a slight white mark, like a thread, round her -throat. Beuno cursed the caitif prince, “who melted -away as wax melts before the fire.” Winefred lived -fifteen years after this event; she founded a monastery at -Gwytherin in Denbighshire, of which she became the abbess, and -died there.</p> -<p>Before the event of her decapitation, it seems the valley was -particularly dry, so much so as to bear the name of -<i>Sychnant</i>, <a name="citation130"></a><a href="#footnote130" -class="citation">[130]</a> from that circumstance; therefore it -was most fortunate that the head of the pursued damsel should -have rolled where it did. Not only did the spring attest -the miracle, but the very moss and stones around have properties -that enforce the belief. The moss emits an odoriferous -smell in testimony of the saint’s purity, and the stones at -the bottom are stained with her blood, and keep their tint to -this day. It is true that some naturalists, who had not the -same motive for keeping the world in ignorance as the monks of -Basingwerk had, have proclaimed that the moss is only a -sweet-scented plant called <i>Jungermannia asplenoides</i>, and -that the crimson stains on the stones are produced by a vegetable -named <i>Byssus jolithus</i>, by no means uncommon, thus -characterised by Linnæus: “the Byssus easily betrays -itself by giving the stones, to which it adheres, an appearance -of being smeared with blood. If rubbed, the plant yields a -smell like violets.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Fortunately, all the botanical and other students of the days -of St. Winefred were monks, who knew well how to keep their own -counsel, and turn their knowledge to their own advantage.</p> -<p>Our fair tourist proceeds to narrate some of the -“miracles and lying wonders,” which are said to have -occurred during the removal of the devout virgin’s corpse -from Gwytherin to Shrewsbury; and then comes a conclusion, which -we suppose the devotees of the saint of the Holy Well will regard -as nothing less than “flat blasphemy.” -“After all this,” observes Miss Costello, “it -is mortifying to find that the blessed St. Winefred never existed -at all, nor was more than an Undine, a thought, a name, a fairy -of a fountain! for Gwenvrewy, as she is called in Welsh, -signifies <i>the white hill water</i>, or the <a -name="page131"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 131</span><i>white -gushing stream</i>, meaning the overflowing well which Nature -formed without a miracle.”</p> -<p>As our province is rather to describe the well itself, than to -bandy arguments about the lady whose name it bears, we may -briefly state that it is one of the most remarkable springs of -water in the kingdom.</p> -<p>The well is an oblong square, about twelve feet by -seven. The water passes into a small square court through -an arch, under which the Roman Catholics used to swim as an act -of penance. The quantity of water thrown up is not less -than eighty-four hogsheads every minute. This water has -never been known to freeze, and scarcely ever varies in quantity, -either in drought, or after the greatest rains. Though this -stream has little more than a mile to run before it arrives at -the sea, a great number of mills, forges, and other works are -kept in motion by it, three of which are placed abreast.</p> -<p>The sacred well is the object of many pilgrimages, even in -this day, and several modern miracles are related of the -influence of its waters. Pope Martin the fifth especially -enjoined such pilgrimages, and the monks of Basingwerk were -furnished with pardons and indulgences to sell to the -devotees. James the Second visited the well in 1686; and -Leopold, king of the Belgians, in 1819.</p> -<p>Apart from all superstitious notions, its waters doubtless -possess many sanative properties.</p> -<p>The authoress of the new romance of “Llywelyn’s -Heir,” says with reference to this charmed place: “We -would recommend any strangers to the spot to visit it, should an -opportunity offer, and judge with their own eyes of the lightness -and beauty of the tall pointed arches and the flying buttresses -that adorn the exterior; and to decide whether the interior is -not even more worthy of notice. The well, into which the -miraculous stream pours forth its astounding body of water, is -polygonal; the columns that rise above it are singularly -beautiful, and after many serpentine wanderings, meet and form a -canopy worthy of the water-king, who doubtless frequently holds -there his court. The legend of the saint, and beautiful -carvings in stone are scattered around; but they appear to have -been placed there to do honour to the house of Stanley, and not -to the saint—by no means an astonishing circumstance, for -the saint had been long dead, and was probably tired of working -miracles; and the Stanleys were living, and willing to bestow <a -name="page132"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 132</span>munificent -gifts, of which this building and the chapel above it remain -memorials to this day.”</p> -<p>The church, dedicated to St. Winefred, and rebuilt in 1769, is -a rather spacious structure of Grecian architecture, 68 feet long -by 56 wide; consisting of a nave with north and south aisles, -with a chancel, in which is a window embellished with modern -stained glass. It has also two large galleries over the -aisles, and the whole is calculated to contain about 3,000 -persons. Remains of the ancient edifice are still seen in -the remarkably plain pillars on each side of the nave. It -contains several monuments and tablets, and amongst them one by -Westmacott, erected to the memory of Paul Panton, Esq.</p> -<p>Under the chancel are the vaults of the Mostyns of Talacre, -the Pennants of Downing, and the Pantons of Bagillt; in the -chancel is a neat cenotaph, in memory of Mary, mother of the late -Edward Pennant, Esq. On the wall, at the end of the same -aisle, is a flat stone with twelve quarterings, copied from those -over the chimney-piece in the dining-room at Mostyn.</p> -<p>In rebuilding the church, the headless figure of a priest was -found in his sacerdotal habit, and with a chalice in his -hand. He is supposed to have been Thomas, second son of -Thomas ap David, abbot of Basingwerk. This headless trunk -is often exhibited to the wondering as the image of the blessed -St. Winefred! The service is alternately English and Welsh, -and at night there are English lectures. Holywell contains -several meeting-houses for the various denominations of -dissenters. A new Roman Catholic chapel has lately been -erected.</p> -<p>The environs, which are studded with numerous handsome -residences and gentlemen’s seats, abound with richly -diversified scenery; and from the higher grounds are obtained -extensive and varied prospects over the surrounding country, -which is rich in picturesque beauty. The air is salubrious, -and the opportunities of cold and sea-bathing, render it not only -a pleasant place of permanent residence, but also of occasional -resort for invalids, for whose comfort every accommodation is -provided, with the benefit of good medical advice, and the -advantage of numerous pleasant rides and walks in the immediate -neighbourhood.—There are several good inns in the town, the -principal of which are, the White Horse, King’s Arms, -King’s Head, and the Red Lion.</p> -<p>For many ages, the copious stream of St. Winefred served only -to turn a corn-mill belonging to Basingwerk abbey, and it <a -name="page133"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 133</span>was not -till the year 1777 that Holywell began to emerge from obscurity, -when Mr. Smalley introduced the cotton manufacture, and erected a -mill on a principle similar to that of one built at Cromford, by -Sir Richard Arkwright. Soon after this, Mr. Smalley was -joined by an opulent company from Lancashire, and erected, in -1783, a larger mill, now called the upper mill, which worked -12,218 spindles; the same company, in 1787, built the lower mill, -adapted to the working 7492 spindles, and in 1791, the crescent -mill, in which 8286 spindles were kept in motion. These -mills were applied to the spinning of cotton thread, of which -26,098lb was produced on an avenge weekly, furnishing employment -to nearly one thousand persons. A great part of that trade -has now left Holywell, and the buildings are applied to other -branches of manufacture.</p> -<p>There are, upon the same stream, several extensive copper -mills, for rolling sheet copper, the manufacture of every -description of copper vessels, copper bolts used in -ship-building, and copper cylinders: there is also a mill for -drawing copper wire, &c. Besides these, there are a -large iron foundry, a paper mill, and zinc works.</p> -<p>The district immediately around Holywell, is pre-eminently -distinguished for the richness of its mineral treasures, and -particularly for its mines of lead and calamine, which appear to -have been worked from the earliest period, and continue still to -form an almost inexhaustible source of wealth.</p> -<h4>Basingwerk Abbey,</h4> -<p>(Or Maes-glâs), called also Greenfield Monastery, is -beautifully situated in a meadow, about a mile east of Holywell -among rich meadows, commanding a fine view of the Cheshire shore, -with a profusion of spreading sycamores, and groves of ancient -trees on all sides. Its time-worn and crumbling ruins are, -from some points of view, highly picturesque.</p> -<p>The little at present left of the abbey is scarcely sufficient -to indicate its former extent. The church, which stood on -the east side, is totally destroyed.</p> -<p>Near to the abbey, a castle formerly reared its towers, but of -this scarcely a vestige remains visible. Close to this spot -also runs the celebrated Watt’s Dyke, which terminates at -the Dee below. It is clearly traced hence through Northop, -Hope, Wrexham, and the grounds of Wynnstay, to Maesbury, near <a -name="page134"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 134</span>Oswestry, -where it ends.—About three miles north-west of Holywell, -is</p> -<h4>Downing,</h4> -<p>The seat of Viscount Fielding, who married, in June 1846, Miss -Pennant, the heiress to the estate. The present house was -built, probably on the site of an older mansion, in 1627, but has -lately undergone great improvements. This hall was the -birth-place and residence of the celebrated author, Mr. Thomas -Pennant, whose antiquarian and topographical researches form an -important contribution to the historical records of the -country. The walks are agreeable and diversified, -particularly in the immediate vicinity of the mansion, which is -approached by a rural path, winding through a beautiful and -well-wooded dingle. Much taste is displayed in the -landscape gardening and horticultural arrangements of this little -paradise.—About a mile and a half north-west of Downing, on -the summit of a lofty hill, stands</p> -<h4>Mynydd-y-Garreg,</h4> -<p>An ancient circular building of great height, in form not much -unlike a windmill. It is a <i>pharos</i>, or Roman -light-house, erected by that people to conduct navigators to and -from the Deva. It is tolerably entire, and built of -lime-stone, bedded in hard mortar. The antiquary will not -begrudge a walk to examine this ancient relique bequeathed to us -by the conquerors of the world.—Two miles north-west of -Downing, lies the ancient structure of</p> -<h4>Mostyn Hall,</h4> -<p>The property and residence of the Hon. Edward Mostyn Lloyd -Mostyn, M.P., nephew of the late Sir Thomas Mostyn, and heir -apparent of Lord Mostyn, of Pengwern. The house is -approached by a magnificent gateway, called Porth Mawr, erected -at the termination of a venerable avenue of forest trees, leading -to one vestibule of the mansion, which stands in a small but -beautiful and well-wooded park, about half a mile from the -estuary of the Dee. The mansion is worth the attention of -the tourist and antiquary. It is of the Elizabethan age, -though built upon the site of a former house erected in the reign -of Henry the Sixth. In the spacious hall are several -specimens of armour and implements of warfare previous to the -introduction of fire-arms. The rooms are literally crowded -<a name="page135"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 135</span>with -family portraits, by the old masters, the principal of which are -Sir Roger and Lady Mostyn. There are several fine portraits -of Charles the First, including an original by Vandyke. In -the dining-room, the sideboard is formed of one piece of plank, -quite a curiosity; it is nearly six feet wide, and twelve feet -long; and is hewn, not sawed. The tapestry parlour is -beautiful. The mansion is noted for the maintenance of -English hospitality after the manner of “the olden -time.”</p> -<p>During the time that Henry, Earl of Richmond, was secretly -conspiring the overthrow of the house of York, he passed -concealed from place to place, in order to form an interest among -the Welsh, who favoured his cause on account of their respect to -his grandfather, Owen Tudor, their countryman. While he was -at Mostyn, a party attached to Richard the Third arrived there to -apprehend him. He was then about to dine, but had just time -to leap out of a back window, and make his escape through a hole, -which to this day is called the King’s Window. -Richard ap Howel, then Lord of Mostyn, joined Henry at the battle -of Bosworth: and after the victory, received from the King, in -token of gratitude for his preservation, the belt and sword he -wore on that day.</p> -<p>There are many curious objects of antiquity at Mostyn, -including a golden torque found at Harlech; a silver harp, in the -possession of the family since 1568; the Mostyn pedigree; and the -largest private collection of Welsh manuscripts in the -Principality. The Gloddaeth library and manuscripts, as -well as similar literary stores from other mansions of this -family, have been brought here; for the reception of which, the -hon. proprietor has erected a library worthy of the -collection.</p> -<p>To the treasures of Mostyn has also been added a splendid -candelabrum valued at one thousand guineas, presented by the -political friends of the Hon. Mr. Mostyn, who, on the day of the -presentation, October 31, 1843, entertained the subscribers, -amounting to several hundreds, in a manner worthy of the best -days of the ancient, princely, loyal, and hospitable house of -Mostyn.</p> -<h3>LLANASA,<br /> -(<i>Flintshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Holywell</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Rhuddlan</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>St. Asaph</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>The village of Llanasa is situated in a pleasant valley at the -northern extremity of the county, on the south-western <a -name="page136"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 136</span>shore of -the estuary of the Dee. The church has two east windows, in -the more ancient of which is some fine stained glass, brought -from Basingwerk abbey. The church-yard contains some -curious tomb-stones.—In the neighbourhood are several -genteel residences, and about two miles from the village is</p> -<h4>Talacre,</h4> -<p>the seat of Sir Pyers Mostyn, a branch of the family of the -Mostyns of Mostyn. The old house was built in the time of -James the First; but when the late baronet came into possession -of the estate, it was razed to the ground for the purpose of -building another mansion on its site. The first stone of -the new house was laid by Sir Edward Mostyn, on the 31st day of -July, 1824. When the shell was completed, part of it was -burnt down by an accidental fire on the night of the 11th of -September, 1827; but it was soon rebuilt, and finished in a -magnificent style. The house is an old English mansion, of -truly handsome appearance, erected after a design and under the -superintendence of Mr. T. Jones, architect, of -Chester.—Within a short distance of Llanasa, and situated -on an eminence near the confluence of the Dee with the Irish Sea, -is</p> -<h4>Gyrn,</h4> -<p>built by the late John Douglas, Esq. It is a building in -the castellated style of English architecture, having several -lofty and elegant towers, from the summit of which the view is -very extensive, commanding the surrounding hills, and those of -Yorkshire, Derbyshire, and Staffordshire; the Isle of Man, -Beeston Castle, Chester, and Liverpool, are also discernible; -and, in the opposite direction, a small part of the Snowdonian -chain may be observed.—About a mile from Llanasa, is</p> -<h4>Golden Grove,</h4> -<p>the admired residence of Edward Morgan, Esq., erected in 1578; -but it has been considerably improved and enlarged within the -last forty years. The house occupies a sheltered situation -among the hills, whence the prospect is extensive and -pleasing.</p> -<h3><a name="page137"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -137</span>LLANBERIS,<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Beddgelert</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Capel Curig</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dolbadarn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">2</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This village, situated on the road between Caernarvon and -Capel Curig, derives its name from the dedication of its church -to St. Peris, a British, or, as some affirm, a Roman saint, who -had been a cardinal of Rome, and is said to have resided in this -celebrated spot with Padarn, an anchorite about the sixth -century, who had a cell or small chapel, in a meadow between -Dolbadarn castle, and old Dolbadarn inn, now called the -“Snowdonia.”</p> -<p>The church, situated in a deeply sequestered glen about half a -mile above the upper lake, is a small, low structure, of the most -primitive character.</p> -<p>Near the church is the well of St. Peris, formerly famed for -its miraculous efficacy in the cure of diseases, and therefore a -place of resort with pilgrims and devotees.</p> -<p>The parish of Llanberis is very large in extent, and is -divided into two districts or townships, viz. Nant-ucha’, -alias Nant-Peris, and Nant-isa’, alias Nant-Padarn, and -comprises several of the loftiest mountains in the Principality, -besides numerous natural objects worthy the research of the -curious.</p> -<p>The village of Llanberis is romantic in the extreme. It -lies in a narrow grassy glen, surrounded by immense rocks, whose -cloud-capped summits are seldom visible to the inhabitants -below. All the parts immediately surrounding the village -were formerly covered with wood; but, except some saplings from -the old roots, there are at present very few trees left. In -the memory of persons lately living, there were great woods of -oak in several parts of these mountains. In the tenth -century the whole country must have been nearly covered with -wood, for one of the laws of Howel Dda (Howel the Good) directs -that “whoever cleared away timber from any land, even -without the consent of the owner, he should, for five years, have -a right to the land so cleared; and after that time it should -again revert to the owner.”</p> -<p>The Pass of Llanberis presents a scene of wild grandeur and -fearful sublimity, of the most impressive and majestic -character.</p> -<p><a name="page138"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -138</span>Amidst the vast ranges of these British Alps, are two -beautiful lakes. The upper one at Llanberis, called also -Llyn Peris, is about a mile in length, and nearly half of one in -breadth; the depth is said, in places, to be one hundred and -forty yards. The other, called Llyn Padarn, is about a mile -and a half long, but so narrow as to assume rather the appearance -of a river than a lake. Between these, a communication is -formed by a stream, and out of the lower issues the river Seiont, -which, after flowing in an irregular diffused manner, discharges -itself into the Menai at Caernarvon. At the foot of the -lower lake is a rural and picturesque stone bridge, leading to a -most perfect Roman station, called Dinas Dinorwic, partly natural -and partly artificial. It is in fine preservation.</p> -<h4>Dolbadarn,</h4> -<p>(Or Padarn’s Meadow), so called from Padarn, a British -saint of obscure note. Since the opening of the new line of -road from Caernarvon to Capel Curig, Llanberis has become the -principal resort of parties visiting Snowdon. In addition -to the spacious and comfortable inn at Dolbadarn, a new and more -commodious house, the Royal Victoria Hotel, has been erected at -the expense of T. A. Smith, Esq., near Dolbadarn castle, for the -accommodation of the increased number of visitors whom this truly -interesting district draws together in the summer months. -The hotel is in a most eligible situation, at the junction of the -two lakes, and within a few hundred yards of Dolbadarn castle, -about two miles from the village of Llanberis, on the road from -Caernarvon. Every facility for ascending Snowdon is here -provided.</p> -<p>The castle, standing near the junction of the two lakes of -Llanberis, is the only one that remains in the narrow passes of -North Wales. As it was impossible for an enemy to climb the -chain of mountains, which are a guard to Caernarvonshire and -Anglesea, and as there were five narrow passes, the British -secured each with a castle: this was the central one. Owen -Gôch was here confined upwards of twenty years, for having -joined in a rebellion against his brother Llywelyn ap Gruffydd, -the last prince of Wales. It seems to have been long in -ruins, for in Leland’s time there was only part of a tower -left. The key of the castle is kept at the Victoria Hotel, -and may be had by tourists on application.</p> -<p><a name="page139"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 139</span>The -view hence is remarkably splendid, embracing the lakes, which -extend nearly three miles, the various interesting objects by -which they are surrounded, and the immense chains of rugged -mountains that bound the vale. The view from the lake is -also finely picturesque.</p> -<p>About half a mile south of the castle, at the end of a deep -glen, there is a tremendous cataract, called</p> -<h4>Ceunant Mawr,</h4> -<p>(The Waterfall of the Great Chasm.) It is upwards of -sixty feet in height, and is formed by the mountain torrent from -Cwm Brwynog, which rushes through a cleft in the rock above, and -after coming in a direct line, suddenly takes a turn with the -broad stratum of the rock, and thus descends aslant, with a -thundering noise, into the deep black pool below.</p> -<p>On the declivity of the mountain, and nearly opposite -Dolbadarn castle, on the eastern side of the lake, are extensive -slate quarries, the property of Thomas Assheton Smith, Esq., -situated high among the rocks. The mode of conveying the -slates down the almost precipitous descent, to the margin of the -lake, was formerly singularly awkward, and apparently very -dangerous. The carts, each conveying about one ton of -slates in winter, and two in summer, were drawn down a serpentine -path by one horse in front, and one hooked on behind, to -counteract the rapidity of motion which otherwise would endanger -the whole. From the lake the slates were carted in great -quantities to the Menai, whence they were shipped to Ireland, -Liverpool, America, &c. To avoid this great labour and -danger, a railroad has been made from the quarries down to the -shipping place at Velin Heli, on the Menai, a distance of about -nine miles. By this road, the slates are conveyed down, at -an average, it is said, of about 100 tons daily throughout the -year. At this place of activity, generally designated by -the name of “Dinorwic Slate Quarry,” above a thousand -men are usually employed.</p> -<p>On the opposite side of the lake, and nearer to Caernarvon, at -a place called Glyn Rhonwy, is another quarry, the property of -Lord Newborough, worked by from 150 to 200 men; and the slates -are conveyed by carts to Caernarvon.</p> -<p>This little valley can also boast of its mineral -treasures. A valuable copper mine is situated on the side -of the upper lake, <a name="page140"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -140</span>about half a mile from the village. A stream of -water, for the use of the mine, is conveyed along the mountain on -each side, and over the road, just at the head of a lake, by -means of a wooden conduit, supported by piers. The ore -obtained is, in general, what is termed rich, on an average worth -from £20 to £25 per ton; but the value consequently -varies with the price of copper.</p> -<p>About two miles above Llanberis church, on the Capel Curig -road, there is an immense stone, that has once been precipitated -from above, called</p> -<h4>The Cromlech. <a name="citation140"></a><a -href="#footnote140" class="citation">[140]</a></h4> -<p>This stone is of some thousand tons weight, and many times -larger than the celebrated mass of rock in Barrowdale, called -Bowdar Stone. It lies in a place called Ynys Hettws -(Hetty’s Island); and two of its sides meeting at an angle -with the ground, it was once used as the habitation of an old -woman, who in summer resided in the vale to feed and milk her -cows. The enclosures are yet nearly entire, and are -sometimes used as a sheepfold.</p> -<h4>Gorphwysfa,</h4> -<p>(The Resting Place), the top of the ascent between Llanberis -and Capel Curig, four miles from the former, overlooks the -glorious prospects before noticed. It also commands a view -into the mountain pass which joins Nant Hwynan and the vale of -Capel Curig. The vale of Llanberis is narrow and almost -straight, nearly filled with two lakes, connected by a canal -called Bala ’r Ddeulyn (the Junction of the two Lakes), -celebrated (previous to the opening of the copper mines) for the -abundance of the red and golden char. These fish are still -caught in the lakes, though not so plentifully as formerly; the -char is taken about the middle of September.</p> -<h4>Angling Stations.</h4> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>The upper and lower lakes</p> -</td> -<td><p>(Bad sport).</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llyn Cwm Dwythog</p> -</td> -<td><p>2 miles from Dolbadarn inn.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llyn Llydan</p> -</td> -<td><p>5 — on Snowdon.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Glaslyn</p> -</td> -<td><p>on the west of ditto.</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<h3><a name="page141"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -141</span>LLANDEGAI,<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Aber</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bangor</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">2</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Conway</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Port Penrhyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">2</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Near to the grand entrance to Penrhyn Park, are the much -admired church and little village of Llandegai, hidden from the -immediate view by a high wall, extending some yards in the -front. The parish is more than fifteen miles in length, -from the shore of the Menai straits far into the mountainous -regions of Snowdon, including a wide district, abounding with -almost every species of mineral treasure. The scenery of -the neighbourhood is beautifully picturesque and impressively -grand, comprehending on one hand a vast amphitheatre of -mountains, and on the other a fine view of the Menai Straits.</p> -<p>The church is one of the neatest in the Principality, in the -form of a cross, having a tower in the centre. Its style is -Gothic, and it is supposed to have been erected about the reign -of Edward the Third. Within the church is a mural monument -to the memory of John Williams, lord keeper of the great seal in -the reign of James the First, who died at Gloddaeth, and was -interred in this church in 1650. He is represented in his -episcopal dress, kneeling at the altar. There is also an -elegant marble monument erected to the memory of the late Lord -and Lady Penrhyn, executed by Westmacott. On one side it is -supported by a female peasant, deploring the loss of the -deceased, and on the other by a quarry-man, holding an iron bar -and a slate knife, earnestly reading the inscription which -commemorates his benefactor. Beneath are smaller figures, -the first representing a boy feeding his goats on the mountains, -emblematical of the state of the country when his lordship -commenced his improvements; the second, two boys working in a -slate quarry, emblematical of industry; the third is, one boy -teaching another to read the Bible, emblematical of religious -education; and the fourth, three boys with sickles in a wheat -field, denoting plenty. Lord Penrhyn died in 1806.</p> -<p>The following is a translation of the somewhat curious Latin -inscription on the monumental record of the renowned Archbishop -and Lord Chancellor Williams:—“Sojourner, read, and -in these few words, particularly observe that which you would <a -name="page142"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 142</span>not expect -to find in this obscure chapel. Here lies buried John -Williams, the most renowned of prelates, descended by his -father’s lineage from the Williams’s of Cochwillan, -and by his mother’s from the Griffiths of Penrhyn, whose -great parts and eminence in all kinds of learning raised him -first to the deanery of Sarum, and afterwards advanced him to -that of Westminster by the favour of King James. At one and -the same time he was the most intimate favourite of and privy -councillor to that great king, lord keeper of the great seal of -England, and bishop of the see of Lincoln, whom Charles the First -honoured with the archiepiscopal mitre of York. He was -thoroughly versed in all sciences—a treasury of nine -languages—the very soul of pure and undefiled -theology—an oracle of political tact—the very -acmé and ornament of wisdom, whether sacred, canonical, -civil, or municipal. His conversation was engagingly -sweet—his memory more tenacious than human—a -repository of all species of history—expended in -magnificent edifices the sum of £20,000,—an exemplary -pattern of liberality, munificence, generosity, hospitality, and -compassion for the poor. In those lamentable times which -followed, being worn out with the things which he saw and heard, -when, by reason of the fury of the rebels, he could no longer -serve his king nor his country, having lived 68 years, on the -25th of March, which was his birthday, with strong faith in -Christ, and steadfast allegiance to his king, he most devotedly -resigned his soul to God, dying of a quinsy. It matters -little that so small a monument, placed in this obscure spot, -preserves the memory of so great a man, since years and ages -shall never cease to celebrate his virtues. He died 25th -March, <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1650.</p> -<p>“Pass on, traveller, it is enough, your curiosity is -gratified.”</p> -<p>The ancient family residence, Cochwillan, is within a short -distance of the church, and remains in much the same condition as -when, “broken by the storms of state,” the good -prelate here sought his final resting-place on earth.</p> -<h3>LLANDUDNO,<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Abergele</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Conway</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Llandudno old church is situated near the promontory of -Ormeshead, which forms the eastern boundary of the entrance <a -name="page143"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 143</span>into -Beaumaris Bar. It has the appearance from the sea of a -dilapidated cow-house. A new church has been erected on the -side of the promontory, where the inhabitants principally -reside. There are here several very valuable and extensive -copper mines. The cliffs towards the sea are lofty and -abrupt; and the whole scene wild and romantic in the extreme.</p> -<p>On the centre of the mountain is a rocking stone, called -Crŷd Tudno (or the Cradle of St. Tudno); and on an eminence -are the ruins of a large square building, of which the walls, -apparently constructed without mortar, lie scattered in various -directions. On the highest part of the promontory, and near -the Great Ormeshead, a signal staff has been erected, -communicating with Llysfaen on the east, and Puffin Island on the -west, forming thereby a post of communication between Liverpool -and Holyhead. These hills and the neighbouring woods of -Gloddaeth abound in rare and curious plants. The rock just -above the village of Llandudno is the only habitation in Britain -of the <i>cotoneaster vulgaris</i>, which grows here -abundantly.</p> -<p>The parish of Llandudno contains six hundred and sixty-two -inhabitants.</p> -<h3>LLANEDWEN,<br /> -(<i>Anglesea</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanidan</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">2</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Moel-y-Don</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Llanedwen is a small village where Henry Rowlands, the learned -author of Mona Antiqua Restaurata, was interred. He was -instituted to the vicarage of this place in October, 1696, and -died 1723. He lies under a black slab of Anglesea marble, -in the south part of the church.</p> -<h3>LLANELIAN,<br /> -(<i>Anglesea</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Amlwch</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Beaumaris</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This is a small village on the eastern coast of -Anglesea. The church, dedicated to St. Elian, is supposed -to have been founded by the patron saint about 540; and adjoining -to it is a small chapel, of very ancient foundation, measuring in -its interior twelve feet by fifteen, called Myfyr, <i>the -confessional</i>. A curious closet of wood, of an hexagonal -form, called St. Elian’s closet, is yet left in the east -wall, and is supposed to have served both <a -name="page144"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 144</span>the office -of a communion table, and as a chest to contain the vestments and -other utensils belonging to the chapel. Near to the door is -placed Cyff Elian (Elian’s Chest), or poor-box. -Superstitions devotees out of health send their offerings to the -saint, which are put through a hole into the box.</p> -<p>At Point Lynas, near this place, a light-house of considerable -dimensions has been erected.</p> -<h3>LLANERCH-Y-MEDD,<br /> -(<i>Anglesea</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Amlwch</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Beaumaris</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">17</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holyhead</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">263</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Llanerch-y-medd is a considerable town, with a market on -Wednesday, deriving its importance chiefly from its proximity to -the Parys mountain, on the northern side of Anglesea. Here -are the leading fairs for Anglesea oxen, and the south country -dealers attend to make their purchases for the Kent and Sussex -pastures. An establishment has been opened in this town for -the manufacture of snuff, in imitation of the celebrated Lundy -Foot, of Dublin. There is a small but comfortable inn -here.</p> -<p>Within one mile of the town is Llwydiaeth, the hospitable -mansion of W. P. Lloyd, Esq. At a small distance is a -rocking stone, held in great sanctity by the bards as a druidical -remain.</p> -<h3>LLANERVUL,<br /> -(<i>Montgomeryshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Dolgelley</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">24</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanfair</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Machynlleth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">25</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mallwydd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">13</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Newtown</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Welshpool</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This interesting little village is pleasantly situated on the -banks of the river Banwy, and at the lower extremity of a narrow -vale of about seven miles in length. The Cross Foxes Inn -affords good accommodation. The situation of the village, -being on the turnpike-road from Shrewsbury to Machynlleth and -Dolgelley, causes it to be much enlivened in the summer season, -by coaches passing through, conveying travellers to the bathing -places at Aberystwyth and Barmouth.</p> -<p>The parish, extending nearly eight miles in length, and about -three in breadth, is divided into six townships, comprising <a -name="page145"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 145</span>a -population of about 1000, chiefly employed in agriculture. -The lands are but partially enclosed and cultivated, the hilly -parts affording only pasturage for sheep, young cattle, and Welsh -ponies, during the summer; but the soil of the lower grounds is -tolerably fertile, and when properly cultivated, is capable of -producing grain of every kind. Within this parish, on the -mountains, are several lakes of considerable extent and depth, -and some of them containing great abundance of fish, chiefly -trout and eels.</p> -<p>The most ancient manor-house in these parts is Neuadd-wen (the -White-hall). This was formerly the seat of Meredydd ab -Cynan, brother of Gruffydd ab Cynan, Prince of North Wales, who -served the Princes of Powys, and was termed Lord of -Rhiw-hiriaeth, Coedtalog, and Neuadd-wen. Some genealogists -say that he was Meredydd ab Cynvyn, and brother to Bleddyn ab -Cynvyn, Prince of Powys. The estate of Neuadd-wen was -divided and subdivided according to the custom of gavel kind, -until the time of Evan ab Owen, the last of the line of Meredydd -ab Cynan, whose two daughters were married, the one to the -Llwydiarth family, the other to that of Newtown Hall. In a -heap of rubbish, at the back of the present farm-house of -Nauadd-wen, were found pieces of free stone, with mouldings, -which appeared to be the ruins of an arched window. The -building seemed to have been Gothic, according to the taste of -the eleventh and twelfth century. It is probable that the -name of Neuadd-wen was given to the new structure, for there is a -tradition that its former appellation was Llŷs Wgan, which -is corrobarated by the fact, that a rivulet near the house is -still called Nant Wgan.</p> -<p>Adjoining Neuadd-wen lies the capital farm of Llysyn, formerly -the estate of Ieuan ab Bedo Gwyn, descendant of a cadet branch of -the family of Neuadd-wen. This estate was afterwards -purchased by the Herberts, and made the residence of some branch -of that family, ancestors to the present Earl of Powys. The -name of Llysyn seems to be a contraction of Llŷs-dyddyn (the -Court-farm). Probably, the Princes of Powys had here a -court of judicature.</p> -<p>This parish contains the vestiges of several tumuli, forts, -and ramparts, such as those at Moel-y-ddolwen, Gardden, -Rhôs-y-gallt, &c.; but the most singular vestige of -antiquity here is that of the Roman causeway, called Sarn-Sws, or -Sarn-Swsen, which leads from the old Roman station of Caer-Sws, -<a name="page146"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 146</span>near -Llanidloes, to Chester; or as some will have it, from -Caerllëon-ar-Wysg, in Monmouthshire, to -Caerllëon-ar-Ddyfr-dwy, or Chester on the Dee. This -road enters the parish of Llanervul on the hills of the Drum, and -thence descends through the farms of Cae’r-Bacha, -Cynniwyll, &c., and crosses the river Banwy below Neuadd-wen, -and then up Craig-y-gô, whence it proceeds through the -parish of Llanvihangel; and Dr. Worthington says it might be -traced through the parish of Llanrhaiadr-yn-Mochnant, at -Street-Vawr, near Coed-y-Clawdd, over Rhôs-y-brithdir, to -Pen-y-Street, and thence to Llamiwrch, &c. In some -places the pavement may be found a little below the surface.</p> -<p>The church of Llanervul is dedicated to Urval Santes, a female -saint, whose pedigree is not known: some suppose that the ancient -tomb-stone in the church-yard was erected to her memory, but the -inscription by no means corroborates that supposition.</p> -<p>Mrs. Priscilla Forster, a descendant of the family of the -Herberts of Llysyn, bequeathed £300 for the instruction of -the poor children of the parish: this sum was invested in the -purchase of a farm near the village, now considered worth -£35 per annum, which is appropriated agreeably to the -intentions of the benevolent testatrix.</p> -<h3>LLANFAIR, <a name="citation146"></a><a href="#footnote146" -class="citation">[146]</a><br /> -(<i>Anglesea</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Llangefni</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pentraeth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">2½</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This village is celebrated as the birth-place of Goronwy Owen, -of whom a Welsh author has said that “he was the greatest -genius either of this age, or that ever appeared in our country; -and perhaps few other countries can boast his equal for universal -knowledge.” He was born in 1722, had the rudiments of -his education at the grammar-school of Bangor, whence, in 1741, -he went to Oxford. Four years afterwards he received holy -orders at Bangor, and became curate to the Bishop at -Llanfair. He successively held the curacy of <a -name="page147"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 147</span>Donnington, -near Shrewsbury, and Walton, near Liverpool: but having only a -slender income, and being disappointed in his hopes of -preferment, he emigrated to America. The taste, manners, -and morals of the Virginians were offensive and disgusting to -this son of sorrow. He lost by death his wife and children, -all but one boy; and he himself, while but comparatively a young -man, sank to the grave under the pressure of accumulated -misfortunes. To a perfect acquaintance with the Latin and -Greek languages, he added a knowledge of the Hebrew, Chaldee, -Arabic, and Syriac. His Latin odes have been universally -admired for the purity of their language, and for the elegance of -their expression. As a Welsh poet he ranks superior to all -since the days of Dafydd ap Gwilym. Those parts of his -works which have been printed are considered as perfect models of -Welsh poetry. It has been lately stated that a grandson of -the bard is now living in the United States, and is a member of -the congress.</p> -<h3>LLANFAIR,<br /> -(<i>Montgomeryshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Can-Office</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dinas-Mowddwy</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mallwyd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Newtown</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Oswestry</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Welshpool</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Llanfair, or Llanfair-Caer-Einion, a small market town -pleasantly situated on the declivity of an eminence, rising from -the south bank of the small river Banwy, which falls into the -Vyrnwy, and on the turnpike road leading from Welshpool to -Machynlleth and Dolgelley, containing 2687 inhabitants. It -has a church dedicated to St. Mary, an ancient structure; and -five places of worship for dissenters. The Vyrnwy abounds -with such a quantity and variety of fish, as justly to entitle it -to the name of <i>amnis piscosus</i>. The inhabitants of -this place are said to excel in the practice of spearing -fish.</p> -<h4>Angling Stations.</h4> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Myfod (Meivod)</p> -</td> -<td><p>5 miles on the Vyrnwy.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llangynyw</p> -</td> -<td><p>2½ „</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanervul</p> -</td> -<td><p>5 „</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<h3><a name="page148"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -148</span>LLANFYLLYN,<br /> -(<i>Montgomeryshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">178</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mallwyd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Oswestry</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Shrewsbury</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">25</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Welshpool</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>A market town of some note, situate in a fertile valley on the -banks of the river Cain, surrounded by lofty hills. The -market is held on Thursday. Population, 1955.</p> -<p>In the centre of the town stands the church, which was erected -when the excellent Dr. Beveridge was bishop of the diocese; it is -a neat brick building, dedicated to St. Myllyn. The peal of -bells surpasses any in the county. Here are three endowed -schools; and a good town hall was built in 1775.</p> -<p>Bôd Fach, near this town, the seat of Lord Mostyn, was -once the residence of his paternal ancestors, the Kyffins. -The markets and fairs of Llanfyllyn are well attended, -particularly for the purchase of Welsh merlins, which are brought -here for sale in great numbers.</p> -<h3>LLANGEFNI,<br /> -(<i>Anglesea</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Beaumaris</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanerch-y-Medd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Menai Bridge</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mona Inn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This is a small but neat market town centrally situated in the -island. The markets and fairs are of considerable -importance. It is one of the contributory boroughs; the -present M.P. being Col. Paget. There is a neat church under -the hill, and the town is romantically situated. The -principal inn is Pen-y-bont.</p> -<p>Tregarnedd, now only a farm-house, but once the residence of -Ednyfed Vychan, an able chieftain to Llywelyn the Great, is in -this parish.</p> -<p>About three miles distant on the Llanerch-y-medd road is -Tregaian, the residence of Vice-Admiral Lloyd. Not far off -is Maen Rhos Rhyfel, where Owen Gwynedd obtained a signal victory -over an invading army of Erse, Manksmen, and Normans. The -population of Llangefni is 1753.</p> -<p style="text-align: center"> -<a href="images/p148b.jpg"> -<img alt= -"Llangollen bridge" -title= -"Llangollen bridge" - src="images/p148s.jpg" /> -</a></p> -<h3><a name="page149"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -149</span>LLANGOLLEN,<br /> -(<i>Denbighshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">23</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Chirk</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Corwen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">183</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Oswestry</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ruabon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ruthin</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Wrexham</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>The name of this place is derived from the dedication of its -church to an ancient British saint named Collen, whose lineage -runs thus, in names almost unpronounceable by Saxon -tongues—St. Collen ap Gwynnawg ap Clydawg ap Cowrda ap -Caredog Freichfras ap Llyr Merim ap Einion Yrth ap Cunededd ap -Wledig. The town, which is beautifully situated in a deep -narrow valley, enclosed by lofty mountains, and watered by the -noble stream of the Dee, appears anciently to have been protected -by the neighbouring fortress of Castell Dinas Bran, situated on -the summit of a vast conical hill in its neighbourhood. The -houses are in general old or rather mean in appearance, though -occasionally interspersed with some modern handsome dwellings; -and there is excellent accommodation for the numerous visitors -who frequent the neighbourhood during the summer season. -The pure air and mild temperature cause a number of families to -adopt this locality as a permanent retreat. The Hand, the -King’s Head and Royal Hotel, are the two principal -inns. Population, 1500.</p> -<p>Here is a stone bridge over the Dee, consisting of four -pointed arches, erected in the year 1345, by John Trevor, Bishop -of St. Asaph, and which was anciently regarded as one of the -wonders of North Wales. The scenery of the neighbourhood is -pre-eminent for its grandeur and sublimity, and for its -picturesque and romantic beauty.</p> -<p>The church is an ancient structure, with small pretensions to -architectural beauty, except some fine carvings on the roof and -other parts of the interior. The view from the churchyard -is remarkably pretty, embracing the bridge, the weir, and Crow -Castle. The talented and self taught clerk, Mr. Jones, may -be consulted by writers with profit, as a person of considerable -attainments and general information. The church services -are alternately in the Welsh and English language.</p> -<p>The market is held on Saturday, and is well supplied with -butcher’s meat, but very little corn is sold. By the -late act <a name="page150"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -150</span>for amending the representation, Llangollen has been -made a polling-place in the election of knights for the -shire.</p> -<h4>Llangollen Vale,</h4> -<p>a district long celebrated in prose and verse for its varied -beauties, is bounded on each side by lofty mountains of imposing -grandeur. It is certainly a charming and romantic spot; and -though not so grandly impressive, or so surpassingly beautiful as -some of the other Welsh valleys, its lovely features become more -attractive on a familiar acquaintance. A remarkable range -of lime-stone hills, called the Eglwyseg Rocks, adds a singular -variety to the landscape. It is almost needless to observe -that “Llangollen, that sweetest of vales,” is the -scene of the home of “Jenny Jones,” whose charms are -sung in Charles Matthews’ popular ballad.—In this -vale, and within a quarter of a mile from the town, stands</p> -<h4>Plas Newydd,</h4> -<p>the famed retreat of Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby, -better known, probably, as <i>the two recluses</i> of Llangollen -Vale. These two females, delighted with the scenery around -Llangollen, when it was little known to the rest of the world, -sought here, about the year 1778, a philosophical retirement from -the frivolities of fashionable life, and selected and improved a -dwelling that commands a fine mountain prospect, which obtained -the name of Plâs Newydd. This elegant little cottage -is situated on a small knoll, and surrounded by very tasteful -grounds.</p> -<p>The peculiar style in which these ladies decorated their -retreat has been much discussed. A palisade, ornamented -with antique and grotesque figures carved in oak, enclosed the -front; and the doors and windows were decorated with carving of -the same material. The rooms were tastefully adorned with -drawings. A carriage drive, open to strangers, crosses the -lawn immediately in front of the cottage. Lady Eleanor -Butler died June 2, 1829, at the advanced age of 90, and Miss -Ponsonby, Dec. 9, 1831, aged 76: both were interred in the -churchyard of Llangollen. To their memory is erected a -monument of unique and elegant structure. It has three -sides, on each of which there is an appropriate epitaph; one for -Lady Eleanor Butler, another for Miss Ponsonby, and the other for -their youthful servant, Mary Carrol, who had accompanied <a -name="page151"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 151</span>them from -Ireland, the country of their birth, to this delightful -retirement.</p> -<p>The whole property was consigned to the hammer in 1832, and -was purchased by two other maiden ladies, viz. Miss Lolly and -Miss Andrew, who seemed inclined to emulate the retirement of its -former possessors.</p> -<p>There are many other genteel villas and country residences, -within a convenient distance of the town, deserving of -notice.</p> -<h4>Castell Dinas Bran</h4> -<p>is situated on a high and somewhat conical hill, about a mile -from Llangollen. The building has been about a hundred -yards long, and fifty in breadth; and it formerly occupied the -whole crown of the mountain. From its extremely elevated -situation (being about 910 feet above the surface of the Dee at -Llangollen bridge), it must have been a place of vast -strength. On the side which is most accessible, it was -defended by trenches cut through the solid rock. The -present remains consist of nothing more than a few shattered -walls. There is a well of pure water on the top of the -hill.</p> -<p>The views hence on every side are very grand. Towards -the east stretches the whole vale of Llangollen, through which -the Dee foams over its rocky bed; and beyond the vale is seen all -the flat and highly cultivated country that extends for many -miles. Just beneath lies the town of Llangollen, and -towards the west is the vale of Crucis, with its back-ground of -lofty mountains, whose dark sides are agreeably varied with wood -and meadow. This fortress, from the style of its -architecture, is evidently the work of the Britons; but by whom -built, or when demolished, is a matter of mystery. Old -Churchyard, who visited it in the sixteenth century, calls it -“an old ruynous thing.”</p> -<h4>Vale Crucis Abbey,</h4> -<p>or, as it is called by the Welsh, <i>Monachlog Llan -Egwestl</i>, about two miles from Llangollen, and one mile and a -half from Castell Dinas Bran, on the right of the road towards -Ruthin, is a grand and majestic ruin, affording some noble -specimens of ancient Gothic architecture. There are still -remaining of the church the east and west ends, and the south -transept. Several pillars and arches also remain as -interesting memorials of this exquisite relic of a past age.</p> -<p><a name="page152"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 152</span>The -cloister on the south side, which a century ago, was only a -shell, is now converted into a dwelling-house, the residence of -the person who farms the adjacent lands. Three rows of -groined arches, on single round pillars, support the dormitory, -which is now a loft for containing corn, approached by steps from -without. The area of the church is overgrown with tall ash -trees, which hide from the sight some part of the ruin, but -contribute greatly to its picturesque beauty.</p> -<p>Vale Crucis was a house of Cistercian monks, dedicated to the -Virgin Mother. It was indebted for its foundation, about -the year 1200, to Madoc ap Griffith Maelor, Lord of Bromfield and -Dinas Brân, who, after various successes, and acquiring -much booty by the reduction and ruin of English castles, -dedicated a portion of his booty to the service of -religion. He was interred here. At the dissolution -the revenues appear to have amounted to about £200 per -annum. A short time ago, the burial place of the monks was -accidentally discovered, in the garden at the back of the -farm-house, where many of their remains were found, which must -have been there in an undisturbed state for six hundred -years.</p> -<h4>Pillar of Eliseg.</h4> -<p>The Vale of Crucis is indebted for its name to this cross or -pillar, which is to be found in a field near the abbey, and just -opposite to the second mile-stone from Llangollen. This -pillar is very ancient. The Rev. John Price, Bodleian -librarian, (uncle of Dr. Price of Llangollen,) a great antiquary, -wrote to Mr. Lloyd, of Trevor Hall, respecting this long -neglected pillar, and at his suggestion it was placed in the -position it now occupies. It appears to have been erected -upwards of a thousand years ago, in memory of Eliseg (the father -of Brochwel Yscythrog, Prince of Powys, who was slain at the -battle of Chester in 607), by Concenn or Congen, his great -grandson. The inscription is much defaced, so that it -cannot be satisfactorily traced. The shaft was once above -twelve feet long, but having been thrown down and broken, -sometime during the civil wars, its upper part, only about eight -feet in length, was left. After these commotions, it was -suffered to lie neglected for more than a century.</p> -<h4>Post Cysylltau, or Cysylltau Aqueduct.</h4> -<p>From Llangollen, most tourists visit this stupendous work <a -name="page153"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 153</span>of -art. It is a wonderful effort of ingenious contrivance, and -affords a convincing proof of the incalculable capability of -human energies when directed by science. This aqueduct was -constructed for the purpose of conveying the Ellesmere canal over -the river and vale of the Dee. It was commenced in 1795, -from designs by Mr. Telford, and completed in ten years. -Its direction is from north to south, crossing the Dee at right -angles; and it forms, in connexion with the exquisite scenery -surrounding it, a noble and magnificent picture. To view it -to the best advantage, the stranger must descend on one side of -it, into the valley beneath; he will then be impressed with its -stupendous character. Though the aqueducts of the Romans -were superior in length, in other respects they were inferior to -this modern structure.</p> -<p>The tourist may proceed along the high road towards Chirk, -four miles from the town, where a turning to the left will -conduct him to Pont Cysylltau Aqueduct; or crossing the bridge at -Llangollen, ascend the hill to the canal, and walk along its -banks till he arrives at the aqueduct. The high road is -preferable, as it commands some engaging prospects.</p> -<p>The aqueduct, in length 1007 feet, consists of nineteen -arches, each 45 feet in the span, with the addition of 10 feet 6 -inches of iron work in continuation at each end. The -supporting piers are stone, of a pyramidal shape, measuring at -the base 21 feet by 14 feet wide; but diminishing upwards to 12 -feet by 7 at the top; and their height about 116 feet. Over -this immense arcade is extended a trough, or large open caisson, -made of cast iron, 11 feet 10 inches broad, by which the water of -the canal is conveyed over the river 1009 feet to the opposite -level. Two iron plates are screwed together from centre to -centre of each arch; and along one side of the canal is a towing -path, four feet in breadth, with a handsome iron balustrade, as a -defence for man and horse. The elevation collectively will -stand thus:—</p> -<table> -<tr> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: center">Feet.</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: center">Inches.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Height of piers</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">116</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">0</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Depth of trough, or caisson</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Height of balustrade</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: right">Total height from surface of the -Dee</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">126</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">1</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>At the southern end is an embankment of earth, 1500 feet <a -name="page154"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 154</span>in length, -and seventy-five feet in height nearest the abutment of the -arches. The whole undertaking is said to have cost -£47,069 : 6 : 7.</p> -<p>On the centre arch is the following -inscription:—“The nobility and gentry of the adjacent -counties, having united their efforts with the great commercial -interest of this country, in creating an intercourse and union -between England and North Wales, by a navigable communication of -the three rivers, Severn, Dee, and Mersey, for the mutual benefit -of agriculture and trade, caused the first stone of this aqueduct -of Pont Cyssyllte to be laid on the 25th day of July, MDCCXCV, -when Richard Myddelton, of Chirk, Esq., one of the original -patrons of the Ellesmere canal, was Lord of the Manor, and in the -reign of our Sovereign George the Third; when the equity of the -laws and the security of property promoted the general welfare of -the nation, while the arts and sciences flourished by his -patronage, and the conduct of civil life was improved by his -example.”</p> -<p>The antiquarian will find some interesting remains in this -neighbourhood worthy of investigation. Amongst them is a -square tower, very strongly built, in advance of and at the foot -of the hill on which Crow Castle stands. For many years it -has been appropriated as part of a farm-house, called ‘The -Tower.’ The walls of the original building or tower -are very thick; and in one corner of the quadrangle there is a -winding stone staircase, now concealed by a bookcase. The -probability is that this old tower was an advanced station -belonging to the castle. There are also vestiges of a -nunnery or monastery at a place called Pengwern.</p> -<p>About six miles from Llangollen, on the Ruthin road, is a -curious old building, called Rhydidris, near Llandaglan. -The site, the extensive stabling, and the antique curiosities in -the house, raise the probability that it has been garrisoned, and -also been a military station of great importance.</p> -<p>The Shrewsbury and Chester Railway Company intend to run a -branch from their main line at Ruabon to Llangollen.</p> -<h4>Angling Stations.</h4> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>The Dee</p> -</td> -<td><p>from Corwen to Llangollen.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>“ “</p> -</td> -<td><p>from Llangollen to Overton.</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<h3><a name="page155"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -155</span>LLANGYNOG,<br /> -(<i>Montgomeryshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Bala</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanfyllyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanrhaiadr</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Llangynog (the church of St. Cynog) is a small village, -situated in a pleasing slip of fertile land, above which rises a -stupendous rock of coarse slate. The river Tanat, which -runs through this village, is celebrated for its delicious -trout. The upper end of the vale is bounded by two vast -precipices; between them juts out the rude promontory of Moel ddu -Vawr. On the north side of this valley is the house of -Llechwend-garth, the occasional residence of the late Thomas -Thomas, Esq. of Downing, near Holywell, whose daughter married H. -Davies Griffith, Esq. of Caer-Rhûn, Caernarvonshire, who, -in consequence, became possessed of this estate, and was in 1835 -high sheriff of the county of Montgomery. The new inn -affords tolerable accommodations.</p> -<p>At Craig-y-Mwyn. somewhat more than two miles from the -village, in 1692, a vein of lead ore was discovered, so valuable -as to yield to the Powys family a clear revenue of at least -£20,000 a year. It had been worked to the depth of -about one hundred yards, when on a sudden the water broke in with -such continuous power, that the proprietor was compelled to -abandon the undertaking. About the commencement of the -present century, however, the mine was leased by a company, who -drove a level beneath it, in order to draw off the water, and -continued the working of it for some time; they occasionally -found masses of pure ore, weighing from 70 to 1001b. each. -After some time the works were again discontinued, until a few -years ago, when the old shaft was reopened, and the operations -proceeded with considerable success.</p> -<p>At Craig-y-Gribin, in this parish, are some quarries of -excellent blue slate, of strong and durable quality.</p> -<h3>LLANHAIARN,<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">13</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pwllheli</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This is a small village, situated near the west coast of the -promontory of Lleyn. Its church, standing on an eminence, -<a name="page156"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 156</span>forms a -good land-mark.—Between this place and the sea, the lofty -range of the Rival (or Yr Eifl) Mountains, which form conspicuous -objects from Caernarvon and other parts of the country. -Upon the first of these eminences, about a mile from Llanhaiarn, -is Tre ’r Caeri (or the Town of Fortresses), which Mr. -Pennant describes as “the most perfect and magnificent, as -well as the most artfully constructed British post he ever -behold.” The only accessible side was defended by -three walls, which appear to have been very lofty. The area -is irregularly shaped, and near the centre is a square space -surrounded by the fragments of habitations.</p> -<h3>LLANIDAN,<br /> -(<i>Anglesea</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanedwen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">2</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Menai Bridge</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Plas Newydd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Llanidan is a little village, near the shores of the Menai, -not far from the spot where the Romans landed, headed by -Suetonius Paulinus, who murdered the Britons by thousands. -It is called, by Rowlands, Maes Mawr Gad (the Great Army’s -Field). It lies three hundred yards from the Menai, and -consists of about twenty acres. The Romans entered the -water about two hundred yards south of Llanfair-is-caer church, -where the shore is flat, the water shallow, and only three -quarters of a mile wide. At low water, and at neap tide, -most of the bed is dry.</p> -<p>After the death of Nero, in the year 67, the natives, after -six years of thraldom, threw off the Roman yoke, the Druids -returned and assumed their authority and property, which they -held till the year 76; when Agricola crossed the Menai, nearly a -mile farther north, landed at a field yet called Pont or -Pant-yr-Yscraffiau (Bridge of Boats), where the same tragedy was -re-acted in this and the two adjoining fields.</p> -<p>The locality abounds with an interesting variety of druidical -remains. Lord Boston has a residence and a park here: the -house is a clumsy building, but the situation is most -pleasant.</p> -<h3><a name="page157"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -157</span>LLANIDLOES,<br /> -(<i>Montgomeryshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Aberystwyth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">30</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Devil’s Bridge</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">19</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">193</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Machynlleth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Newtown</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Plinlimmon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Llanidloes (the Church of St. Idloes) is pleasantly situated -near the Severn. The population of the whole parish is -4261, including 2562 inhabitants of the town, who are principally -employed in spinning and weaving of flannels, the manufacture of -which has been established in this town from a very early period, -and has continued materially to increase; the softest and most -durable texture is made here. The principal inn is the New -Inn, an excellent and well conducted establishment, where -post-chaises and other vehicles may be had; the Queen’s -Head, Red Lion, and the Crown, are also respectable houses, where -travellers may be well accommodated. By the late Reform -Act, this town was made one of the contributory boroughs of the -county.</p> -<p>The church was originally founded towards the close of the -fifth or at the beginning of the sixth century. Of the -original building the towers only remain. The present -structure was built about 200 years ago. In 1816, the -chancel and south wall were rebuilt; at the same time the church -was renewed; and a set of new bells was hung in the tower in -1824. As is usual in all the Welsh towns, there are places -of worship for various dissenting congregations. The -market-day is on Saturday.</p> -<p>A few years ago, a handsome stone bridge of three arches was -erected over the Severn, at a considerable expense; and a new and -excellent line of road was opened from hence to Rhaiadr, which -makes a direct and regular communication between North and South -Wales. Lord Mostyn is lord of the manor; a court leet is -held once a year, at Michaelmas, when officers are appointed, in -whom the government of the place is vested. In the vicinity -of the town are several handsome residences, the property of -opulent individuals.</p> -<p>Within eight miles of Llanidloes, in the parish of -Llanbrynmair, are two fine waterfalls, near to each other, of -which the principal, called Ffrwd Vawr, is very grand, especially -after heavy rains; the water having a perpendicular descent of -more than one hundred and thirty feet.</p> -<h4><a name="page158"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -158</span>Plinlimmon.</h4> -<p>Within the limits of Llanidloes parish is partly included the -lofty mountain of Plinlimmon, (or, more properly, Plumlumon, the -five-peaked mountain) which is the highest in the several chains, -of which it forms the centre: and from this place the ascent to -its summit is usually made, being only seven miles distant from -the town, whence guides from the principal inns are -provided. From the highest point is obtained a fine -prospect of vast extent, comprehending on the south, the hills of -Cardiganshire and Radnorshire; on the west, Cardigan bay and St. -George’s channel; on the north, Cader Idris and part of the -Snowdon range of mountains, separating the counties of Caernarvon -and Merioneth; on the north-east, the Breiddyn hills, in -Montgomeryshire; and on the east, part of the counties of -Hereford and Salop. This mountain derives a considerable -degree of interest from its giving rise to the rivers Severn, -Wye, Rheidiol, and Llyvn-nant; of which the former is secondary -only to the Thames in commercial importance; whilst the Wye and -the Rheidiol surpass all other rivers in Britain for the -picturesque beauty of their scenery.</p> -<p>The Severn, here called by its ancient British name of Havren, -rises on the northern side of the mountain, in a stony chalybeate -spring, and is speedily joined and increased by other springs -rising near to its source, and by several mountain torrents, -before it reaches Llanidloes.</p> -<p>The Wye rises from two powerful springs on the south-eastern -side of the mountain, and after a long circuitous course, falls -into the Severn near Chepstow.</p> -<p>The Rheidiol has its source in a pool called Llyn Llygad -Rheidiol, and falls into the sea at Aberystwyth.</p> -<p>The Llyvn-nant issues from a pool called Glâs Llyn.</p> -<p>About twenty years ago, Llyn Llygad was entirely without -fish. Two gentlemen, one of whom was the late Captain -Jones, R.N., of Machynlleth, were grousing on Plinlimmon, when -the conversation turned on the peculiarity of this lake being -entirely destitute of the finny tribe, and the possibility of -stocking it from a neighbouring rivulet. A staff net was -procured, and some dozens of small trout caught in the river -Rheidiol were thrown into the lake, which at that time swarmed -with millions of horse leeches. Some of the trout, when -placed in the pool, lay upon their sides faint and exhausted: and -strange as it may appear, the rapacious leeches <a -name="page159"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 159</span>attached -themselves to the sick fish, and actually devoured them. -Others of the trout were vigorous; these and their progeny have -enforced the <i>lex talionis</i> with a vengeance; and while the -fish abound, not a leech is now to be seen.</p> -<p>At Melin Velindre, on the route to Plinlimmon, is a romantic -cataract, and near a sheep farm, called Blaen Havren, the Severn -rolls its waters over a lofty ledge of slate rocks, in which -gullies have been found of picturesque shapes.</p> -<p>About two miles from the town, on the south-east, is a -spacious pool, called Llyn-ebyr, extending over a surface of -nearly one hundred acres; it abounds with pike, eels, and perch, -and affords excellent fishing; it is frequented by wild fowl; and -during the summer season it is the resort of parties of pleasure, -for whose accommodation boats belonging to gentlemen in the -vicinity are kept on the pool.</p> -<h4>Angling Stations.</h4> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: center"><i>Distance from -Llanidloes</i>.</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: center"><i>Miles</i>.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>The Clywedog</p> -</td> -<td></td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bodaioch, on the Tavannon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Glan Trevnant</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llandinam</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llangurig</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<h3>LLANRHAIADR,<br /> -(<i>Denbighshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Denbigh</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ruthin</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Llanrhaiadr (the Village of the Cataract), on the road between -Ruthin and Denbigh, is situated on a small eminence in the -fertile vale of Clwyd. It derives its name from a spring at -a short distance, called Ffynnon Ddyfrog, where once was a bath -and chapel, dedicated to St. Ddyfrog.</p> -<p>The church is a very interesting and handsome structure. -On the east window is a painting of the genealogy of Christ from -Jesse, executed about 1533. In the church-yard is a curious -inscription to John ap Robert, whose pedigree is traced up to -Cadell, king of Powys.</p> -<p>The scenery, both to Denbigh and Ruthin, is all the way -extremely beautiful.</p> -<h3><a name="page160"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -160</span>LLANRHAIADR-YN-MOCHNANT,<br /> -(<i>Denbighshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Bala</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanfyllyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llangynog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Oswestry</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This is a small village situated at the extremity of the -county, in a deep hollow, surrounded by mountains.</p> -<p>Dr. William Morgan, the first translator of the Bible into -Welsh, was vicar of this place. He was promoted to the -bishopric of Llandaff, and in 1601 to that of St. Asaph, where he -died in 1604. This valley is called Mochnant, (the Vale of -the Rapid Brook) at the extremity of which, distant from the -village about four miles and a half, is</p> -<h4>Pistyll Rhaiadr,</h4> -<p>(The Spout of the Cataract) reputed to be the largest -waterfall in Wales. The little river Rhaiadr here falls -down an almost perpendicular black crag, of 240 feet in -height. For about two-thirds of this space, the water -slides down the flat face of a naked rock; it rages thence -through a natural arch, and, passing between two prominent sides, -falls into a basin. It then passes though a well-wooded -dell, forming a boundary line which separates the counties of -Denbigh and Montgomery, and after assisting to form some pretty -scenes, falls into the Tanat. Near to the waterfall is a -neat inn, built in the Gothic style, by Sir W. W. Wynn, where the -stranger may meet with tolerable accommodation.</p> -<h3>LLANRWST,<br /> -(<i>Denbighshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Abergele</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bettws-y-Coed</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Cerniogau</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Capel Curig</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Conway</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Denbigh</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanrhychwyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">2½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">218</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Maen-Twrog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This town is pleasantly situated on the western bank of the -river Conway, which here forms the boundary between the counties -of Denbigh and Caernarvon, in the spacious and beautiful vale of -Llanrwst, environed by majestic and well-wooded hills, the land -at the foot of which is plentifully watered and remarkably -fertile. The town consists principally of small houses and -shops, with a population of 3905 inhabitants. It <a -name="page161"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 161</span>has a -market on Tuesday, and a branch of the North and South Wales -bank. The Eagles is the principal inn; but a good house of -public entertainment is sadly wanted here.</p> -<p>The bridge over the Conway, leading to Gwydir, is an elegant -structure, built about the year 1636, from a plan by the -celebrated Inigo Jones, at an expense of £1000, defrayed -conjointly by the two counties which it connects. It is an -extraordinary fact that a vibration of the bridge may be caused -by any person standing above the middle arch and forcing himself -rather smartly against the parapet.—Excellent roads have -lately been made, communicating with the London, Holyhead, and -Chester roads, and also with Denbigh and St. Asaph, the improved -state of which has induced a considerable increase of visitors, -during the summer months, to view the picturesque and much -admired scenery of this neighbourhood.</p> -<p>Llanrwst was formerly noted for making harps; at present the -spinning of woollen yarn, and the knitting of stockings, -constitute the principal branches of trade. In the -market-place stands the town-hall, a substantial structure, -rebuilt in 1842.</p> -<p>The original church, dedicated to St. Grwst, was a small -edifice, situated close to the margin of the river, and built -about the year 1170; and was supposed, from its style of -architecture, to have been erected in the fifteenth century: it -contained a screen of beautifully carved oak, brought here from -the abbey of Maenan, which was used as a gallery for the -singers. A new church has, however, been built on its site; -and adjoining it, on the other side, is Gwydir chapel, a handsome -square castellated edifice, the interior of which is decorated -with a profusion of carved work; it was built by Sir Richard -Wynne, from a design by Inigo Jones, in 1633, as a burial place -for his family, the deceased members of which had previously been -interred in the chancel, and contains many elegantly engraved -brasses, exhibiting portraits of several of this family. On -the eastern wall is a slab of white marble, recording the -pedigree of the founder, and tracing his ancestors to Owen -Gwynedd, prince of North Wales. On the southern wall is a -mutilated monument to the memory of Sir John Wynne, Bart., a -learned antiquary, and an indefatigable gleaner of materials for -the illustration of Welsh history. In the centre of the -chapel, upon the floor, lies the stone coffin of Llywelyn the -Great, who died in 1240, and was interred in the <a -name="page162"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 162</span>abbey which -he had founded at Aberconway, thence removed to Maenan, and from -that place, at the dissolution, the coffin was brought to the old -parish church of Llanrwst, where it remained obscured by rubbish, -until placed in its present more appropriate situation. The -same attention has likewise been paid to another piece of -antiquity placed near it, a recumbent armed effigy of Howel -Coetmor, grandson of Davydd, brother to Llywelyn ap Gruffydd; he -was the owner of the Gwydir estate, which was sold by one of his -descendants to the family of Wynne. There are in the parish -eleven places of worship for dissenters. A new church, -called by the inhabitants the English church, has lately been -erected about half a mile from Llanrwst. It is a neat and -commodious edifice.</p> -<h4>Gwydir.</h4> -<p>This ancient mansion, about half a mile distant from the town, -beautifully situated amidst extensive woods of oak, which clothe -the rocks projecting between the rivers Conway and Llugwy, near -the foot of a lofty precipice called Carreg y Gwalch, or the Rock -of the Falcon, was erected by John Wynne ab Meredydd, in 1555, -and comprised an extensive, but somewhat irregular pile of -buildings, ranged in a quadrangular style, and consisting of an -inner and outer court. A great part of this edifice was -taken down in 1816, since which time the present structure, -though on a much smaller scale, has been built. A small -portion of the former mansion still remains, and is fitted up in -an antique and elegant style. That part which was built by -Meredydd still remains, and contains some magnificent rooms, in -which are several articles of furniture made from the druidical -oaks of ancient times, and the cradle which nurtured Sir John and -Sir Richard Wynne is still to be seen. The pleasure grounds -are laid out with great taste, and contain a good collection of -plants. Mary Wynne, afterwards Duchess of Ancaster, the -last of this great race, conveyed the property to that family, -and Lord Willoughby d’Eresby now possesses it in right of -his lady.</p> -<h4>Vale of Llanrwst.</h4> -<p>This delightful vale, which is neither so widely extended as -the Vale of Clwyd, nor so contracted as that of Llangollen, is -regarded by the admirers of picturesque scenery, as exhibiting <a -name="page163"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 163</span>the most -varied assemblage of beautiful features which the pencil could -delineate. Mr. Burke has pronounced it “the most -charming spot in Wales.” The prospect of the dense -woods and towering hills which enclose it on each side, is -enlivened by the sparkling waters of the sportive Conway, which -present an animated scene, either of small vessels arriving at -the village of Trefriw, or of the diminutive boats, called -coracles, used in fishing for salmon and smelts, considerable -quantities of which are caught in their respective seasons. -At Mayne, within a mile of Llanrwst, is a spring of high repute, -and frequently used with great effect as a cold bath.</p> -<p>In the valley called Nant Bwlch yr Haiarn, near Gwydir, is a -cataract which falls about 100 feet, called Rhaiadr-y-Parc -Mawr. The quantity of water, however, is seldom large -enough to produce much effect. About two miles and a half -from Llanrwst, on the Conway road, is the small but beautiful -village of</p> -<h4>Trefriw,</h4> -<p>situated on an eminence commanding a delightful and extensive -view of the Vale of Llanrwst. Near and above this lovely -spot is the celebrated lake of Geirionydd, on the banks of which -lived the illustrious bard Taliesin, called by his countrymen, by -way of distinction, “Taliesin ben Beirdd,” the chief -of the bards. About a mile from Llyn Geirionydd is the -mountain village of Llanrhychwyn. Lord Willoughby -d’Eresby has erected a monument which his lordship intended -should identify the spot where the poet resided. Here, in a -sort of hollow, formed on the summit of a mound, are still to be -seen some remains of an ancient habitation. The river -Conway is navigable from its mouth to Trefriw, for vessels of 60 -tons burden, which bring coal, lime, timber, and grocery, for the -supply of the inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood, and -carry back the produce of the slate quarries and mines of the -adjoining parishes. Five miles S. E. of Llanrwst, is</p> -<h4>Gwytherin,</h4> -<p>a small village, very poor and primitive indeed, once -celebrated as the burial place of St. Winefred, but the -pilgrimages to it are now few and far between.—Three miles -to the north stood the Abbey of Maenan; but a large old house -built out of its ruins now occupies its place.</p> -<h4><a name="page164"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -164</span>Angling Stations.</h4> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: center"><i>Distance from -Llanrwst</i>.</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: center"><i>Miles</i>.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bettws-y-Coed</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Trefriw</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">2½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dolgarrog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanbedr</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dolwyddelan</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan='2'><p style="text-align: center"><i>Various Lakes -near Llanrhychwyn and Dôlgarrog</i>, <i>viz.</i></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llyn Geirionydd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llyn Bogynmyd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llyn Cowlyd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan='2'><p>Llyn Afangc.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan='2'><p>Llyn Tal-y-llyn, and Llyn Crafnant, near -Llanrwst.</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<h3>MACHYNLLETH,<br /> -(<i>Montgomeryshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Aberdovey</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Aberystwyth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">70</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dolgelley</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanidloes</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">208</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Newtown</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">28</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Towyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Machynlleth is an ancient well-built town, superior to most in -North Wales for cleanliness and respectability, the streets being -remarkably spacious and regular in appearance. It is -situated on the road leading to Aberystwyth from Shrewsbury and -North Wales, about a quarter of a mile from the southern bank of -the river Dyfi. The township contains a population of -2482. It is the centre of the woollen manufactory in this -part of the country, where also some tanning business is carried -on. The Eagles is accounted the principal inn, and the -Unicorn Arms, in the middle of the town, has obtained a good -repute for excellent accommodation. The name of this town -signifies the place of the river Cynllaeth, which was the ancient -name of the Dyfi or Dovey, in the valley of which it -stands. It is the supposed Maglana of the Romans, where, in -the reign of Honorius, a lieutenant was stationed to awe the -mountaineers.</p> -<p>Here Owen Glyndwr summoned the nobility and gentry, of Wales -in 1402. Amongst the number, Sir David Gam attended with -the design of murdering Glyndwr, but the plot was discovered, and -Sir David was seized. He would have <a -name="page165"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 165</span>suffered -instantaneous death, had not some powerful friends interfered, -through whose intercession his sentence was mitigated to -confinement at Machynlleth, where he continued some time. -But Sir David was scarcely set at liberty, ere he began to -manifest a turbulent disposition; which so exasperated Glyndwr, -that he burnt his house in resentment, uttering to Gam’s -servant the following extemporaneous stanza:—</p> -<blockquote><p>Os gweli di wr coch cam,<br /> - Yn ’mofyn am Gyrnigwen;<br /> -Dywed ei bod hi tan y lan,<br /> - A nod y glo ar ei phen.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>David, however, escaped this meditated vengeance by flying -into England, where he continued in favour at the court of Henry -the Fifth.</p> -<p>In the august assembly called Owen’s parliament, Glyndwr -exerted his first acts of royalty, being then acknowledged as the -Prince of Wales, and proclaimed and crowned.</p> -<p>Machynlleth has a neat and commodious church, which has -recently been rebuilt. The town-hall or market-house was -erected in 1783, by Sir W. W. Wynn, grandfather of the present -owner of Wynnstay, who is lord of the manor, and holds courts -leet twice in the year. The county court is held -alternately here and at Montgomery, and the petty sessions for -the hundred are held here occasionally. There are places of -worship for Independents, Calvinists, and Wesleyan Methodists; -and a national school liberally endowed.</p> -<p>The new line of road from Machynlleth to Towyn is exceedingly -picturesque and beautiful, particularly that part of it lying -between Penal and Aberdovey, which is cut out of the solid rock, -and was opened in 1827; it passes along the northern bank of the -Dovey, and affords most delightful views of the opposite coast of -Cardiganshire, with the sea in the distance.</p> -<h3><a name="page166"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -166</span>MAEN-TWROG<br /> -(<i>Merionethshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Bala</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bedd-gelert</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Capel Curig</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">23</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dolgelley</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ffestiniog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Harlech</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Slate Quarries</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Tan-y-Bwlch</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">0¼</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Tremadoc</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>The Cataracts</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">2</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This is a small village, situated in the most romantic part of -the highly picturesque vale of Ffestiniog, on the southern bank -of the river Dwyryd. It derives its name from a large -stone, still remaining in the church-yard, called Maen-Twrog, -erected to the memory of a British saint, who died about the year -610. The church was rebuilt on the site of the ancient -structure in 1814, and is a neat stone edifice with a square -embattled tower. The Rev. Edmund Prys, Archdeacon of -Merioneth, one of the most eminent poets of his time, was rector -of this parish: he translated the metrical psalms used in the -Welsh churches, and assisted Bishop Morgan in translating the -Bible. He died in the year 1623, and was buried in -Maen-Twrog church. Nothing can exceed the beauties of the -little vale in which the village is built; the well-wooded hills -are moderately high, and scattered with pleasing effect.</p> -<p>There is a comfortable inn here, where neat cars may be -had. A Sunday school was lately erected, at the expense of -Mrs. Oakley. Within sight of the village, and about a -quarter of a mile distant, on the opposite side of the river, -is</p> -<h4>Tan-y-Bwlch,</h4> -<p>that is, Below the Pass, which is one of the most beautiful -and celebrated places connected with the range of Snowdonian -mountains. It takes its name from being situated at the -brow of a hill, where it overlooks the vale of Ffestiniog; and -from Plâs Tan-y-Bwlch, the residence of the late W. G. -Oakley, Esq., which is delightfully and romantically -situated. The prospect from the terrace of this mansion is -most splendid and interesting, embracing the glorious scenery of -the vale of Ffestiniog, the river Dwyryd in all its meandering -windings, the range of Merionethshire mountains in the distance, -the majestic castle of Harlech, and the lake-like intervening -views opening into Cardigan bay.</p> -<p><a name="page167"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 167</span>The -Oakley Arms, an elegant hotel, is conveniently situated in the -centre of the many attractive objects of this romantic -district.</p> -<p>Several Roman antiquities have lately been found near this -place, consisting of coins, urns, and inscribed stones, some of -which are in the possession of Mrs. Oakley, and of J. Lloyd, Esq. -of Pen-y-Glanau, who has also an extensive collection of -antiquities, found in different parts of the Principality.</p> -<p>About two miles on the Harlech road, up a woody valley, are -two most interesting waterfalls, on the Velin-Rhyd river, one -called the Rhaiadr Dû, or the Black Cataract, and the other -the Raven Fall. From the former the water rushes down a -steep channel for about one hundred yards, and is thence thrown -with great force over three rocks, each of which takes a -different direction from the others: the depth of the fall is -about forty feet. The latter is not more than a quarter of -a mile distant, and in equal in beauty and grandeur. It -consists of six different falls, each of which, about thirty feet -in extent, is beautifully picturesque, and, as seen from the base -of the rock over which the river descends, has a sublime and -romantic appearance. There are also several other falls of -minor interest on the streams that water the vale. At a -cottage near the bridge, which the tourist will cross before he -leaves the main road from Maen-Twrog, a guide to the falls may be -obtained.</p> -<p>After the natural beauties of this lovely district, the object -of the greatest attraction is the Ffestiniog railroad, for the -conveyance of slates from the Ffestiniog quarries to Port Madoc, -which is cut through rocks nearly the whole length of fourteen -miles, and forms an inclined plane the whole distance, the fall -of which is equal to one in one hundred and twenty, and the -descent from its commencement to its termination is a most -delightful ride, through an infinite variety of sublime and -interesting scenery. For the accommodation of tourists and -visitors, a carriage, connected with the Oakley Arms Hotel, has -been placed on the line.</p> -<p>The quarries with which the railway is in connexion produce -the best and most valuable kind of slate. They belong to -Lords Newborough, Palmerston, and Powlett; Mrs. Oakley; S. -Holland, J. Greaves, W. Turner, and Thomas Casson, Esquires.</p> -<h3><a name="page168"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -168</span>MALLWYD.<br /> -(<i>Montgomeryshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Bala</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">19</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Can-Office</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dinas Mowddwy</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">1½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Machynlleth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This is a little village, placed between the salient angles of -three abrupt mountains, Arran, Camlan, and Moel Dyfi, in a small -valley surrounded by many delightful scenes, through which runs -the river Dyfi, or Dovey.</p> -<p>The falls of the Dovey at Pont Fallwyd, about half a mile -distant, are particularly romantic and beautiful.</p> -<p>The church is a very humble Gothic structure. The -churchyard is remarkable for several large yew trees, one of -which measures twenty-two feet in girth, and forty feet in -height.—Mallwyd has a good inn, where post chaises may be -procured.</p> -<h3>MOLD,<br /> -(<i>Flintshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Denbigh</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Flint</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Hawarden</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holywell</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">200</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Northop</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ruthin</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Wrexham</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>The ancient British name of this place, (Yr Wyddgrûg), -signifying a Lofty and Conspicuous Hill, and also the Roman name -of Mont Altus, of like import, were derived from a high mound on -the north-western side of the present town, now called the Bailey -Hill, a commanding eminence, partly natural, and partly -artificial, upon which a fortification appears to have been -erected at a very early period, but whether by the ancient -Britons, or by the Romans, is not accurately known. It is -seated in a pleasant valley, watered by the river Alyn; consists -principally of one long spacious street; and in 1841, with that -part of the township immediately adjoining, contained 10,653 -inhabitants. By the late Act for amending the -representation, Mold has been constituted a borough, contributory -with Flint and the other boroughs in the county, in the return of -a member to Parliament.</p> -<p>In the environs are numerous handsome seats and elegant -mansions. The principal inns are the Black Lion and -Leeswood Arms hotels. To the former a spacious assembly -room has lately been added, and many agreeable balls are there -given. The parish abounds with mineral wealth; the western -<a name="page169"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 169</span>district -is rich in lead ore, which is generally found imbedded in -limestone, or chirtz; but the operations are much impeded by the -subterraneous stream of the Alyn, which here flows under ground -for the space of upwards of half a mile. Numerous tumuli -are found in various parts of the parish. In October 1833, -some workmen, digging in a field near the town, discovered a -human skeleton, having at its feet an earthern pot, which -apparently contained ashes; and on the breast, with other metal, -a large plate of gold, much ornamented, valued at the sum of -£70: the trustees of the British Museum became the -purchasers of these antique relics.</p> -<p>In the neighbourhood are various works for smelting lead, and -an extensive cotton mill.</p> -<p>The county assizes are held in Mold. A new county hall -has been erected in the old English style of architecture, from a -design by Thomas Jones, Esq., architect, of Chester.</p> -<p>The church, dedicated to St. Mary, and said to have been -erected in the early part of the sixteenth century, is a spacious -and handsome structure, consisting of a nave, north and south -aisles, and a chancel, with a lofty square embattled tower, -enriched with sculpture and crowned with pinnacles, which though -of more recent erection, precisely correspond with the general -design. The interior of the church is embellished with -architectural details and sculptured monuments. Among -numerous monuments worthy of examination, is an elegant one to -the memory of Richard Davies, Esq., of Llanerch; and against a -pillar of the nave is this singular epitaph, composed by Dr. -Wynne for himself, and placed there during his -life:—“In conformity to ancient usage, from a proper -regard to decency, and a concern for the health of his -fellow-creatures, he was moved to give particular directions for -being buried in the adjoining churchyard, and not in the church; -and as he scorned flattering of others while living, he has taken -care to prevent being flattered by others when dead, by causing -this small memorial to be set up in his lifetime: God be merciful -to me a sinner!” In the burial ground are deposited -the remains of Wilson, the celebrated painter, styled “the -English Claude.” There are places of worship for -various denominations of dissenters. A branch railway from -Mold, to form a junction with the Shrewsbury and Holyhead lines, -at Saltney, near Chester, will soon be constructed.</p> -<p>Of the ancient castle not a vestige at present can be <a -name="page170"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 170</span>discerned, -and its very site is completely covered with thriving -plantations. The Bailey Hill, on which it stood, though at -present difficult of ascent, was rendered still more arduous by -the erection of strong ramparts and the formation of a deep moat: -from the summit of this hill a fine view of the surrounding -country is obtained. About a mile west of Mold is a noted -spot of ground, called</p> -<h4>Maes Garmon,</h4> -<p>Or the Field of Germanus. Soon after the final -establishment of Christianity in this part of the Principality, -about 448, a severe conflict took place here, between the -combined forces of the pagan Saxons and Picts, and the native -converts, of whom thousands had been just previously -baptized. The latter calmly awaited the approach of the -enemy at this place, under the command of Bishops Germanus and -Lupus, the former of whom, having given his troops orders to -repeat after him the word “alleluiah,” led them on to -battle.</p> -<p>This triumphant shout, uttered by the whole army, struck such -terror into the hearts of the pagans, that they fled on all -sides; numbers perished by the swords of their pursuers; and -many, attempting to escape, were drowned in the adjacent -river. This celebrated victory, which took place in Easter -week, has been distinguished by historians with the appellation -of “Victoria Alleluiatica;” and the memorial of it -has been perpetuated by the erection of a pillar, in 1730, on the -spot where St. Germanus is said to have stood. Modern -researches of antiquarians have raised a doubt as to the locality -of this remarkable event. One mile and a half on the -Chester road runs</p> -<h4>Offa’s Dyke,</h4> -<p>The ancient and famous boundary between Wales and England, -extending from Basingwerk, in Flintshire, to Monmouth. When -the Romans made their inroads into this island, many of the -Britons retreated into Wales, at which time the rivers Dee and -Severn divided the two countries: all to the east was England, -and to the west Wales. This division continued about 600 -years, when the ambitious Offa, coveting the fertile lands of his -neighbours, raised a quarrel and an army. He drove the -conquered westward among the mountains, seized their property, -formed this vast dyke, and ordained that neither Englishman nor -Welshman should pass the new boundary.</p> -<h4><a name="page171"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 171</span>The -Tower.</h4> -<p>On the right of the road leading towards Caergwrle, and about -a mile from Mold, is an old structure, which presents a singular -specimen of the style of domestic architecture during the ages of -lawless violence in which it was erected: it consists of an -ancient square tower of three stories, and appears to have been -designed as a place of fortified habitation. During the -wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, it was inhabited -by Reinallt ab Gruffydd ab Bleddyn, who was constantly engaged in -feuds with the citizens of Chester. In 1495, a considerable -number of the latter came to Mold fair, and a fray arising -between the hostile parties, great slaughter ensued on both -sides; but Reinallt, who obtained the victory, took the mayor of -Chester prisoner, and conveyed him to his mansion, where he hung -him on the staple in his great hall. To avenge this -affront, a party of two hundred men was dispatched from Chester -to seize Reinallt, who, retiring from his house into the -adjoining woods, permitted a few of them to enter the building, -when, rushing from his concealment, he blocked up the door, and, -setting fire to the house, destroyed them in the flames: he then -attacked the remainder, whom he pursued with great slaughter: and -such as escaped the sword, were drowned in attempting to regain -their homes. The staple on which the mayor was hung still -remains fixed on the ceiling of the lower apartment.</p> -<h4>Moel Fammau.</h4> -<p>On the right of the road to Ruthin, about five miles west of -Mold, is this conspicuous eminence, rising 1845 feet above the -level of the sea. Upon the summit of this mountain, the -gentlemen of the country entered into a subscription, and erected -in 1810, a jubilee column, to commemorate the fiftieth year of -the reign of George III. The first stone was laid by Lord -Kenyon, on the 25th October, in the presence of more than 3000 -people. The monument was executed from designs by T. -Harrison, Esq., of Chester, and consists of a rough stone -building of pyramidal form, about 150 feet in height, and 60 feet -diameter at the base. A square block of stone in the centse -marks the division of the two counties, Denbighshire and -Flintshire, and four parishes. From this elevated spot may -be seen parts of Staffordshire and Derbyshire; the <a -name="page172"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 172</span>Wrekin, in -Shropshire; Snowdon and Cader Idris, in Wales; and Black Comb, in -Cumberland. The view is exceedingly grand and extensive, -combining every variety of natural scenery; and as the mountain -road has lately been repaired, and a room for visitors with a -shed for horses erected on the summit, it forms a convenient and -interesting spot from which to contemplate the beauties of -Wales. The jubilee column has also been repaired by public -subscription, to which Lord Kenyon was a liberal contributor.</p> -<h4>Kilkain.</h4> -<p>This village, which lies about four miles from Mold, on the -bridle road to Denbigh, is remarkable for the finely-carved roof -of its church, which at the dissolution of monasteries was -brought from the abbey of Basingwerk.</p> -<h3>MONA INN,<br /> -(<i>Anglesea</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Beaumaris</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holyhead</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Menai Bridge</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Mona Inn, formerly called Caeau Môn, is an excellent -hotel, situate midway between Bangor and Holyhead, on the new -line of road between those places. Post chaises are kept -here. About nine miles beyond the Mona Inn the mail road -crosses the Stanley Sands, by means of an embankment 1300 yards -in length, and upon an average of 16 feet in height. In the -fields of the inn the geologist will find a curious red rock, -containing jasper, which will cut glass like a diamond, and which -also polishes beautifully.</p> -<h3>MONTGOMERY,<br /> -(<i>Montgomeryshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Bishop’s Castle</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">169</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Newtown</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Welshpool</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This town, the capital of the county, is romantically -situated, partly on the summit, and partly on the declivity of a -hill, rising from the southern bank of the Severn, and under the -shelter of a mountain of a mountain of loftier -elevation.—The town-hall <a name="page173"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 173</span>stands in the middle of the town, -the area underneath being used for the market: the upper part is -divided into two handsome rooms, erected at the expense of Lord -Clive, the larger of which is used for assemblies; the smaller, -for the business of the quarter sessions. On the left of -the road leading to Shrewsbury is the new gaol, built by the -county at an expense of £10,000. In 1841, the -population returns gave to this town 1208 inhabitants. The -Dragon has the reputation of being the principal inn.</p> -<p>The town was anciently built and fortified with a castle, by -Baldwyn, lieutenant of the Welsh marshes to William the -Conqueror, and then called Tre-Faldwyn, i.e. Baldwyn’s -Town; but Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Shrewsbury, in 1092, -entered Powys-land, and took his place, which he fortified anew, -built the castle (according to Doomsday-book), and called it -after his own name. The church is a handsome cruciform -structure, and contains an ancient monument to the memory of -Richard Herbert, Esq., father of the celebrated Lord Herbert of -Chirbury.</p> -<p>The ruins of the castle crown an eminence to the north of the -town, the approach to which is easy; but on the opposite side, -the rock upon which it is built rises almost -perpendicularly. A seat belonging to the Earl of Powys, -called Leymore Lodge, stands about half a mile from the town, on -the road to Bishop’s Castle.</p> -<h4>Mynydd, or Cefn Dygoll,</h4> -<p>Is celebrated for having been the spot where the national -independence of the Welsh was finally prostrated. After the -death of Llywelyn, the northern Welshmen set up Madoc, his -cousin, who assembled a great army, and after several victories -at Caernarvon, Denbigh, Knockin, and on the marshes, the hero of -the Principality was here overthrown, in 1294, by the collected -power of the Lords Marshers, after a fiercely contested -battle.</p> -<h3>NEVYN,<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">21</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Cricaeth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">270</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pwllheli</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Nevyn is a small market town, situated on the western coast of -the county, with a population of 1726 inhabitants. It is <a -name="page174"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 174</span>only -remarkable as the place where Edward the First, in 1284, -celebrated his conquest of Wales by tournaments and feasts. -The coast in the neighbourhood is bold and rocky, and the -surrounding scenery altogether of a mountainous character. -The church is a neat building, erected in 1824.</p> -<p>On a narrow head-land, jutting into the sea, about a mile from -the town, is Porth-yn-Llëyn, supposed, from remains of -strong entrenchments, to have been a port frequented by the -Romans. It forms a natural bay, in which there is safe -anchorage in all winds, for vessels of the largest tonnage.</p> -<h3>NEWBOROUGH,<br /> -(<i>Anglesea</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Aberfraw</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Menai Bridge</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Newborough is on inconsiderable village, containing 895 -inhabitants, deriving its name from having been constituted a -free borough by Edward the First. It was originally a place -of great importance, being the capital of the island, and was for -many years the residence of the princes of North Wales, who had a -palace here, where, or at Aberfraw, on the opposite side of the -Malldraeth sands, they occasionally fixed their seat of -government, as the exigences of that turbulent period might -require. At the time of the first conquest of Wales by -Edward the First, this place appears to have been the chief town -in the island, as well as the seat of justice for the whole comot -of Menai. In the reign of Henry the Seventh, upon a -representation to that sovereign, the assizes and other county -business were removed from Beaumaris to Newborough. Having, -however, declined from its former importance, in the third year -of Edward the Sixth, the assizes, sessions, and general county -business were removed back to Beaumaris, where they have been -continued ever since.</p> -<h3>NEWMARKET,<br /> -(<i>Flintshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Caerwys</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holywell</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>St. Asaph</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Rhuddlan</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This village is situated about three miles to the right hand -of the great Chester and Holyhead road, and within three miles of -the estuary of the Dee.</p> -<p><a name="page175"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 175</span>The -church is a small structure of modern date, standing within a -spacious cemetery, in which are some fine lofty trees. On -the south of the church, and not far distant from the principal -entrance, stands a tall and very beautiful stone cross, the upper -part finely sculptured in high relief. Here is built one of -the charity schools, founded and opened in 1726, by Dr. Daniel -Williams, a dissenting minister, with an annual endowment of -£8, a charity which he extended to every county in North -Wales, distinguishing that of Wrexham, the place of his birth, by -an annual salary of £15.</p> -<p>The conjecture of the learned antiquarian, Mr. Pennant, that -from the numerous tumuli and other sepulchral memorials visible -in the neighbourhood, it was the scene of the slaughter of the -Ordovices, by the Romans under Agricola, seems to be well -founded.</p> -<p>Near the village is a hill called Cop ’r ’leni, on -the summit of which is a most enormous carnedd or tumulus, formed -of lime-stones. It covers nearly an acre of ground, and is -in height from 20 to 30 yards. The most probable conjecture -is, that it was erected over the remains of some distinguished -warrior or chieftain, slain in battle, and in later times served -as an observatory to discern the approach of an enemy, for which -purpose it is well calculated, as it commands an extensive view -both of the neighbouring encampments, and the estuaries of the -Dee and Mersey.</p> -<p>A short distance from this place, on the brow of another hill, -is Bryn-y-Saethau, or the Hill of Arrows, probably from being the -station of the archers in the engagement: close to this is -Bryn-y-Lladdfa, or the Hill of Slaughter, a name peculiarly -appropriate to the site of a battle; a little below again is -Pant-y-Gwae, or the Hollow of Woe.</p> -<p>Between Newmarket and Mostyn, about one mile and a half -distance from the former place, there is on an elevation a -singular monument, denominated Maen Achwynfan, or the Stone of -Lamentation and Weeping, on which are cut some very curious -figures; the height of the stone is twelve feet, and two feet -four inches wide at the base; the form is that of an ancient -obelisk.</p> -<p>A short time since one of the tumuli or barrows was opened in -the presence of Mr. Morgan, of Golden Grove, and the Rev. Henry -Parry, vicar of Llanasa, and was found to contain a quantity of -bones and boars’ tusks, the latter in good -preservation. <a name="page176"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 176</span>An urn, nearly two feet in height, -was struck upon, but through the precipitancy of the workmen -employed on the occasion, was unfortunately broken to pieces.</p> -<h3>NEWTOWN,<br /> -(<i>Montgomeryshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Bishop’s Castle</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanidloes</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanfyllyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">19</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">179</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Machynlleth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">30</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Welshpool</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Newtown, or as it is called by the Welsh Tre’-Newydd, is -situated on the banks of the river Severn, on the road from -Welshpool to Aberystwyth, and contains 3990 -inhabitants.—The principal inns are the Boar and the -Angel. Very little is known either of the origin or the -early history of this place, which within the last fifty years, -from the celebrity of its flannel manufacture, has risen into -importance. A spacious hall has recently, been erected, -from a design by Mr. Penson, in which the market for the staple -commodity of the place is held, each alternate Thursday. -Many factories have been established, which afford employment to -more than two thousand persons.</p> -<p>A substantial bridge of stone over the Severn, called the Long -Bridge, was completed in 1827, at a cost exceeding £4000: -it consists of three arches of more than sixty feet span; the -arches and the parapets being of grey free-stone, and the spears -and spandrils of blue stone, found in the neighbourhood. A -stone bridge of one arch was built in 1803, over the town brook, -on the road to Welshpool, which, by way of distinction, is called -the Short Bridge.</p> -<p>The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is an ancient -structure. In the interior are some marble monuments, -chiefly to the family of Price, of Newtown Hall. The -environs abound with pleasing and romantic scenery, and a fine -view of the town is obtained from the summits of the hills on the -north and south sides. At the distance of about a mile and -a half on the road to Built, there is a picturesque and beautiful -spot, which is much resorted to by strangers; from the summit of -a shelving mass of rock, eighty feet high, a stream of water -rushes with impetuosity, forming in its descent a fine cascade, -which winds at the base through a richly wooded glen.</p> -<h4><a name="page177"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -177</span>Angling Stations.</h4> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: center"><i>Distances from -Newtown</i>.</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: center"><i>Miles</i>.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bettws</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanmerewig</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanwynog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<h3>NORTHOP,<br /> -(<i>Flintshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Flint</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Hawarden</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holywell</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">194</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mold</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This is a large and pleasantly situated village, in a fertile -part of the country, surrounded by numerous seats and elegant -villas. The Welsh name is Llan-Eurgain, from the dedication -of its first church to St. Eurgain, daughter of the Prince -Maelgwyn Gwynedd, and niece of St. Asaph, the second bishop of -the see, which from him derived its name.</p> -<p>The church, which has a noble tower, erected in 1571, stands -on a small eminence, and is an irregular building, embattled in -the front, and supported by clumsy buttresses. The interior -length is 113 feet, and the breadth 38½ feet. There -have been three dedications of Northop church; the first to St. -Eurgain; the second to St. Mary; and the third to St. -Peter. There are several remarkable monuments in this -church.</p> -<p>The parish of Northop contains about 6000 acres of land, -nearly the whole extent of which is in cultivation. The -population of the parish in 1841 was 3566.</p> -<p>Coals are found in the lower parts of the parish, and some of -the works have been extensively carried on for many years; large -quantities are conveyed by iron rail-roads to Connah’s -Quay, and there shipped for Chester, Liverpool, and Dublin. -Lead ore is found, though not in great abundance, in the township -of Caer Allwch.</p> -<h3>OSWESTRY,<br /> -(<i>Shropshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Chirk</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ellesmere</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanfyllyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Shrewsbury</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Welshpool</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Wrexham</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This town, though not situated in Wales, is so contiguous, -that it is frequently visited by travellers, either on commencing -<a name="page178"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 178</span>or -terminating their tour, Oswestry lying on the great line of road -from Llangollen to Shrewsbury. The town occupies the -declivity of a range of hills, which skirt it on the western -side, and command an extensive view over the fertile plains of -Salop. The streets are well paved and lighted: the old -buildings of timber and brick have been succeeded by respectable -modern edifices; and the town, which has long been stretched -beyond its ancient boundaries, is still progressively increasing -in extent and importance. The population of the parish by -the last census was 8843.</p> -<h3>OVERTON,<br /> -(<i>Flintshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Ellesmere</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Wrexham</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This is a neat little village, delightfully situated on the -banks of the Dee, over which river is a handsome stone bridge of -two lofty arches, connecting the counties of Denbigh and Flint, -on the road from Chester to Shrewsbury. The surrounding -scenery is beautifully picturesque. The village, with its -venerable church, forms a pleasing and highly interesting feature -in a charming landscape. In the churchyard are several fine -yew trees. The site of the ancient castle occupies the brow -of a lofty promontory overlooking the river Dee; and in the park -of Gwernhaeled are the remains of a large circular camp, with an -ancient tumulus. In this vicinity is the elegant seat of F. -R. Price, Esq. Bryn-y-Pys.</p> -<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">Angling -Station</span>.—The Dee up to Llangollen.</p> -<h3>PENMAEN MAWR,<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Aber</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bangor</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Conway</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Port Penrhyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Penmaen Mawr is an immense hill, and so denominated from being -the last of the long chain of mountains which cross the -country. This gigantic rock, along which the road from -Chester to Holyhead passes, exhibits a fine contrast with the -adjacent fertility, by its sterile grandeur. This place was -once the dread of the neighbourhood, the immense promontory -affording only a narrow zig-zag path along the shelf of its <a -name="page179"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 179</span>frowning -side for the terrified traveller to pass. Under his feet -were loose masses of rugged stones, impeding his progress; -beneath, a hundred fathoms down, the roaring ocean foaming -against the perpendicular base of the mountain; and over his -head, the impending precipice, threatening by its shivering -aspect to overwhelm or hurry him headlong down the craggy -steep. The danger, from the declivity of the mountain, with -the crumbling nature of the strata, increased with his progress, -and, in several difficult parts of the road, one false step must -have inevitably proved fatal.</p> -<p>From the numerous accidents that occurred, it was long an -object of melancholy consideration to the inhabitants in the -vicinity: the winter evenings were often spent in relating the -alarming tales of the perils and disasters attendant on passing -Penmaen Mawr. Modern science, however, has made travelling -in this fearful district both safe and attractive. By order -of the Parliamentary Commissioners, a new road was opened in -1827, by the celebrated Mr. Telford. And a capacious tunnel -has been constructed for the Chester and Holyhead Railway, -through the adjoining mountain of Penmaen Bach, which seemed to -defy every attempt to pierce its gloomy recesses.</p> -<p>On the summit of a lull called Braich-y-Ddinas, rising out of -Penmaen, are the ruins of a castle, the fortifications of which -were capable of containing 20,000 men; the remains of walls are -still standing, and a well that supplied the garrison is -constantly full of water, furnished principally by the -<i>condensed</i> vapour of the mountain. This was -considered the strongest post possessed by the Britons in the -district of Snowdon. It was deemed impregnable; and here -the reduced bands of the brave Welsh army were posted, pending -the negociation betwixt Edward I. and Llywelyn.</p> -<h3>PENMORFA,<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Beddgelert</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pwllheli</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pont Aberglaslyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Tremadoc</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">1</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Penmorfa, or the Head of the Marsh, is a small wood-clad -village, romantically situated on the western bank of Traeth -Mawr, but is so much out of the way of tourists as to be seldom -visited. The church is small, and dedicated to St. Beuno, -<a name="page180"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 180</span>having -within a small monument to the memory of Sir John Owen, a general -and supporter of Charles I., who, being taken prisoner at a -battle near Bangor, was condemned to die by the Parliament; but -through the intercession of Ireton, he was liberated after a few -months’ imprisonment.</p> -<h3>PENMYNYDD,<br /> -(<i>Anglesea</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Beaumaris</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Plas Newydd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Penmynydd is situated on the eastern side of Anglesea, near -the great post road from Bangor to Holyhead, six miles from the -Menai Bridge. It is celebrated as being the native place of -<span class="smcap">Owen Tudor</span>.</p> -<h3>PENTRE VOELAS,<br /> -(<i>Denbighshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Capel Curig</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Corwen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Denbigh</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ffestiniog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanrwst</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Maen-Twrog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">17</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This is a small hamlet on the great London and Holyhead road, -with a very comfortable inn. About four miles distant are -the Conway waterfalls. A new road has lately been formed -hence to Denbigh, and another to Ffestiniog.</p> -<h3>PLAS NEWYDD,<br /> -(<i>Anglesea</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanidan</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Plas Newydd (the New Mansion), anciently Llwyn Moel (the Grove -on the Hill), one of the principal groves in Anglesea, sacred to -druidic worship, once the magnificent seat of the Marquis of -Anglesea, but now occupied by T. Assheton Smith, Esq. of -Vaenol. Caernarvonshire. It is beautifully situated -on the curve of the Menai, protected on three sides by venerable -oak trees, and about one hundred yards of the strait, with a fine -lawn in front, sloping to the edge of the water, and defended -from the encroachment of the sea by a strong parapet embattled -wall.</p> -<p>Here the noble proprietor had the distinguished honour of -entertaining his late Majesty George the Fourth, on his visit <a -name="page181"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 181</span>to Ireland -in 1821; and also, at the invitation of the Noble Marquis, who -was then exercising his official duties as Lord Lieutenant of -Ireland, her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent and her -illustrious daughter, the Princess (now Queen) Victoria, took up -their residence for several weeks in the summer of 1822, during -the time of holding the Eisteddfod at Beaumaris, where they -visited and occasionally resided.</p> -<p>Opposite the stables, behind the house, stands the most -complete cromlech in Anglesea, perhaps in Britain; and the -domains abound with most interesting vestiges of antiquity.</p> -<p>A short distance from Plas Newydd, is Mr. Saunderson’s -beautiful cottage, in the formation and embellishment of which -that gentleman has displayed peculiar taste; and about half a -mile to the west, within the park, is Plasgwyn, the seat of the -lute Rev. Henry Rowlands, and also Llanidan Hall, the seat of -Lord Boston.</p> -<p>On Craig-y-Dinas, a rock on the side of the London and -Holyhead road, about midway between the Menai bridge and Plas -Newydd, stands the Anglesea Column, erected to commemorate the -exploits of the noble marquis. The first stone was laid -June 18, 1816, being the anniversary of the battle of Waterloo; -and the pillar was completed September 8 in the following -year. Its height from the base is 100 feet, and the summit -of the hill on which it is built rises 260 feet above the level -of the sea. It forms an interesting and commanding object -in the romantic scenery of the neighbourhood.</p> -<h3>PONT-Y-GLYN,<br /> -(<i>Denbighshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Bala</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Corwen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Pont-y-Glyn (the Bridge of the Precipices) is situated on the -great Holyhead and London road, between Corwen and Cerniogan -Mawr. The woody glen, at the head of which stands -Pont-y-Glyn, with its prominent rocks, nearly obscured by the -surrounding foliage, forms a lovely picture. On a sudden -turn of the road, stands the bridge thrown over a chasm. -Beneath is the rugged and precipitous bed of the river, where, -among immense masses and fragments of rocks, the stream foams -with violent impetuosity. The cataract is not lofty, but -from its being directly under the bridge, where it is seen <a -name="page182"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 182</span>dashing -among the dark opposing rocks, with the addition of the pendant -foliage from each side, the scene is finely picturesque and -elegant. The bridge rests upon the two nearly perpendicular -rocks, and appears to be 50 or 60 feet above the bed of the -stream. The view thence down the hollow is truly -sublime.</p> -<h3>PWLLHELI<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">93</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Cricaeth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">250</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Nevyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Pwllheli, or the Salt Water Pit, is a pleasant market-town and -sea-port, the population of which is about 1500. The market -is held on Wednesday and Saturday. The Crown and Anchor, -where post-chaises may be had, is accounted the principal inn; -the Ship and Ivy Bush are respectable. The town, which is -well built, has become a place of some resort for bathing. -The parish church, which is situated about half a mile to the -north of the town, is small and dilapidated. A new church, -dedicated to St. Peter, was consecrated by the Bishop of Bangor -September 16th, 1834. It is a neat and chaste edifice, -capable of accommodating a large congregation. Two banks -have branches here, the North and South Wales and the National -Provincial.</p> -<p>The town-hall, erected in 1818, is a neat substantial edifice, -the lower part of which is appropriated on market-days as -shambles, and the upper part contains an excellent assembly room, -and a room in which the petty sessions are held. The -commerce consists entirely in the importation of coal and of shop -goods from Liverpool, for the supply of which to the surrounding -country Pwllheli forms a great depôt, and is esteemed the -cheapest place for living in North Wales. This is one of -the contributory boroughs which, with Caernarvon, returns a -member to parliament.—The surrounding scenery comprehends -many pictures of grandeur and of beauty; and a view from the -town, embracing the whole extent of the Snowdon mountains, the -Merionethshire hills, and Cardigan bay, is truly -magnificent. Several improvements are in progress at -Pwllheli.</p> -<h3><a name="page183"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -183</span>RHUDDLAN,<br /> -(<i>Flintshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Abergele</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Flint</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holywell</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">220</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Rhuddlan contains, with the chapelry of Rhyl, 2415 -inhabitants. The town lies in a flat, on the eastern hank -of the river Clwyd, about two miles from its influx into the -sea. The river is here a little extended in width, so as, -at high water, to admit vessels of 50 tons up to the bridge.</p> -<p>Rhuddlan was formerly a place of considerable magnitude, but -no traces of its former importance are left, except in the ruins -of its ancient castle. Edward the First annexed to it the -privileges of a free borough, to facilitate an intercourse -between the Welsh and English, for the purpose of allaying the -rooted enmity and the unhappy jealousies that had for centuries -rent the two countries. In all his proceedings, this -monarch exhibited strong features of policy. He had been -early taught that when stratagem would supply the place of men -and treasure, it was at least wise, if not always just, to adopt -it. Hence originated the statute of Rhuddlan, and hence was -his infant son proclaimed Prince of Wales. This statute, -which was passed in parliament assembled here in the year 1283, -contains a set of regulations for the government of Wales; it -also recites many curious particulars relative to the Welsh -customs previous to Edward’s conquest, against which it was -in a great measure directed.</p> -<p>Betwixt the town and the sea is a large marsh called Morva -Rhuddlan (the Marsh of Rhuddlan), where, in the year 725, a -dreadful battle was fought between the Saxons, under Offa, king -of Mercia, and the Welsh, in which the latter, after an obstinate -conflict, were defeated with great slaughter, Carodoc, king of -North Wales, and many of his principal chieftains, being among -the slain. Such of the Welsh as escaped the sword of the -enemy, perished in the marsh, from the influx of the tides; and -all who were taken prisoners were inhumanly massacred, without -regard to age or sex. In commemoration of this disastrous -event, was composed the well-known Welsh air of “Morva -Rhuddlan,” which is much admired for the plaintive -sweetness of its melody.</p> -<p>The bridge at Rhuddlan consists of two arches, built or -rebuilt <a name="page184"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -184</span>in 1595, with an impression of the arms of Hughes, -Bishop of St. Asaph, upon one of the battlements.</p> -<p>At a private house is shewn part of the building where Edward -the First held the parliament which passed the statute of -Rhuddlan, in 1283; the observation of the tourist will be -directed to it by the following inscription on the -building:—“This fragment is the remains of the -building where King Edward the First held his parliament, <span -class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1283, in which was passed the -statute of Rhuddlan, securing the Principality its judicial -rights and independence.”</p> -<h4>Rhuddlan Castle</h4> -<p>is built of red stone, nearly square, and has six -towers. The principal entrance appears to have been at the -north-west angle, betwixt two round towers; the two opposite to -these are much shattered, but the others are in a better state of -preservation. There is some difference of opinion as to the -period at which this castle was erected. Two celebrated -historians, Powel and Camden, attribute it to Llywelyn ap -Sitsyllt, who reigned in Wales at the commencement of the -eleventh century, and made it the place of his residence. -In 1063, three years before William the Conqueror came to the -throne, Rhuddlan castle was in the possession of Gruffydd ap -Llywelyn, prince of North Wales. It was in that year -attacked and burnt by Harold, the son of Godwin, Earl of Kent -(afterwards King of England), in retaliation for some -depredations committed by the Welsh on the English borders. -It was subsequently the scene of many interesting historical -events.</p> -<p>In 1399, the castle was seized by the Earl of Northumberland, -previous to the deposition of Richard the Second, who dined here, -in company with the Earl, in his way to Flint, where he was -treacherously delivered into the power of his rival, -Bolingbroke.</p> -<p>In the civil wars, Rhuddlan was garrisoned for the King, but -was surrendered to General Mytton in July, 1646, and in the -December following was ordered by the parliament to be -dismantled.—It is at present the property of the Bodryddan -family.</p> -<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">Angling -Station</span>.—Cwm, three miles from Rhuddlan.</p> -<h3><a name="page185"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -185</span>RHYL,<br /> -(<i>Flintshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Abergele</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">30</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holywell</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">13</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>St. Asaph</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Rhyl is situated at the termination of the Vale of Clwyd, near -the mouth of the river from which that beautiful valley takes its -name, and is much frequented as a bathing place during the summer -months, for which purpose, both from its immediate contiguity to -the sea, and the extent and firmness of its sands, it is -admirably adapted. There are excellent and commodious -hotels, with smaller inns and lodging houses, intermingled with -several neat cottages, occupied for the summer residences of some -of the wealthy neighbours. There are machines for the -accommodation of bathers, and hot and cold baths, supplied with -sea water, to which are attached billiard and news rooms, and a -spacious bowling green.</p> -<p>A church has been erected, capable of containing 500 persons, -in which there is Divine service in the English language every -Sunday. Steam-packets ply regularly from Rhyl to Liverpool -three times a week, and occasionally from Rhyl to Beaumaris, -affording its visitors an opportunity of seeing some of the -magnificent scenery of the Welsh coast. Cars may be -obtained at any time from the principal inns, and there is an -omnibus on the Voryd side, which runs regularly from Abergele, to -meet the packets. Extensive and important local -improvements have lately been effected, to add to the attractions -of Rhyl as a marine residence.</p> -<p>The shore presents no very striking scenery; still the antique -castle of Rhuddlan, in its sober hues, and the dark range of -Clwydian hills, stretching far into the distance, afford a scene -of no ordinary beauty. To the south is seen the bold -promontory of the Great Ormeshead, beyond which is Puffin Island; -and when days are bright and skies are clear, the distant hills -of Cumberland may be dimly seen, losing themselves beyond the -waters of the Irish Sea.—Provisions of all kinds are cheap; -and milk, vegetables, and poultry, are abundantly supplied by the -neighbouring farmers. The lover of angling may find an -opportunity of enjoying his favourite amusement, as the Clwyd and -Elwy, both celebrated trout streams, are within one hour’s -walk.</p> -<h3><a name="page186"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -186</span>RUABON,<br /> -(<i>Denbighshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Chirk</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Denbigh</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">28</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llangollen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Wrexham</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5½</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Ruabon, or Rhiw-abon, is a village containing about 1300 -inhabitants, situated on the road from Oswestry to Wrexham and -Chester. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is an -interesting and venerable structure, in which are several -splendid marble monuments. There is one by Rhysbrac, to the -memory of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, who was killed by a fall from -his horse, on the 26th of September, 1749, aged 41 years; the -figure is in a graceful attitude, as in the act of addressing an -assembly. An elegant Latin inscription, the composition of -the late Dr. King, of St. Mary’s Hall, Oxford, enumerates -in eloquent detail his mental abilities, social qualities, and -public and private virtues.</p> -<p>There are likewise two monuments by Nollekens, one to the -memory of the late Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart., and the other -to his wife, Lady Rennetta Williams Wynn. The latter -represents that amiable lady in the character of Hope, standing -and reclining on an urn. The countenance, attitude, and -drapery, are exquisitely fine. The figure stands on a -pedestal, on which, in high relievo, is a coiled serpent, -hieroglyphical of eternity; and within is an inscription -indicating that her ladyship was third daughter of Charles Noel, -Duke of Beaufort, and died July 25, 1769, at the early age of -23. The church was thoroughly repaired in 1772, at the -expense of the first Sir Watkin, who presented an organ and a -small but elegant font of white marble, on the occasion of the -baptism of his eldest son, the late baronet. Dr. David -Powel, the Welsh historian, who was instituted to this vicarage -in the year 1571, was interred here.</p> -<p>In the neighbourhood are numerous iron works and -collieries. The British iron company has very extensive -works at Acrevair, in which several hundred men are constantly -employed. There are considerable coal works at Cefn-Mawr, a -large and populous village on the northern bank of the Dee, near -an elegant bridge thrown over the river, called New Bridge. -The Eagles or Wynnstay Arms Inn is a respectable house. -Ruabon is one of the principal stations of the Shrewsbury and -Chester Railway.—A short distance from the inn is</p> -<h4><a name="page187"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -187</span>Wynnstay.</h4> -<p>This extensive park, which is twelve miles in circumference, -is entered from the village by a plain but handsome gateway of -modern erection, opening into a straight avenue, nearly a mile in -length, composed of lofty trees of ancient growth, in which -venerable oaks, stately elms, beeches, and chesnuts, are -intermingled; and at the extremity of which is the mansion, the -hospitable residence of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart., -beautifully situated on a fine and extensive lawn, gently sloping -to a noble and picturesque lake. The older portion of the -building contains the domestic offices and general departments -for the accommodation of the household. The modern part, -erected by the first Sir Watkin, and enlarged by the late -baronet, is spacious and substantial structure: the interior -comprises several noble apartments, embellished with some -excellent family portraits, by Sir Joshua Reynolds and some of -the best masters, two full length paintings of Charles II. and -his Queen, and several other pictures of merit.</p> -<p>The park is enriched with some of the noblest trees in the -Principality, and comprehends much variety and beauty of scenery: -there are handsome lodge entrances into it from various parts of -the surrounding district.</p> -<p>At a short distance from the hall, situated in charming -pleasure grounds, is a cold bath, near which stands a handsome -fluted column, erected after a design by the late Mr. James -Wyatt: it is one hundred feet high, ornamented on the faces with -festooned wreaths of oak leaves, and at the angles with eagles, -finely moulded in bronze; the capital is surmounted by an -entablature supporting a circular platform, surrounded with an -iron balustrade, to which there is an ascent from the interior by -a flight of spiral steps, and having in the centre a circular -pedestal, twelve feet high, on which is placed a massive vase of -bronze, enriched with goats’ heads. Over the door -leading to the ascent, is a tablet bearing the following -inscription:—“To the memory of Sir Watkin Williams -Wynn, Bart. who died on the 29th of July, <span -class="GutSmall">MDCCLXXXIX.</span> this column was erected by -his affectionate mother, Frances Williams Wynn;” and on the -north side, in letters of copper, is the -inscription—“Filium optimus. Mater, eheu! -superstes.” Near this column is a fine sheet of -water, bounded by Watt’s Dyke, which here intersects the -park, and from which the mansion <a name="page188"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 188</span>originally derived the name of -Wattstay, changed by Sir John Wynn, to its present -appellation.</p> -<p>Near the southern extremity of the woods is a cenotaph, -erected by the late Sir Watkin, from a design by Sir Jeffrey -Wyatville, to the memory of his brother officers and soldiers who -were slain during the rebellion in Ireland in 1798: it stands on -an eminence overlooking a deep ravine, called Nant y Bele (the -Dingle of the Marten), through which the river Dee urges it rapid -course along a narrow channel, richly fringed with impending -woods. From this spot there is a most magnificent prospect, -embracing a vast extent of the counties of Caernarvon, Denbigh, -Flint, Chester, and Salop, Chirk Castle and its noble park, the -whole of the beautiful vale of Llangollen, including the -stupendous aqueduct of Pont-y-Cysylltau, and the majestic ruins -of Castell Dinas Brân, with the stately range of mountains -in the distance.</p> -<p>A gay archery <i>fête</i> of the British Bowmen, -attended by 300 of the aristocracy of the kingdom, was held at -Wynnstay in 1846.</p> -<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">Angling -Station</span>.—The Dee.</p> -<h3>RUTHIN,<br /> -(<i>Denbighshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Bala</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">22</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Corwen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Denbigh</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llangollen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">15</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">210</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mold</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>St. Asaph</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Wrexham</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Ruthin (Rhudd-ddin or Rhuthyn) is beautifully situated on the -aclivity of an eminence in the picturesque Vale of Clwyd, at the -base of which and through the lower part of the town flows the -river from which the vale takes its name, at this place an -inconsiderable stream, serving only to work some mills in the -neighbourhood. The parish contains 3333 inhabitants. -The appearance of the town is pleasing, and the neighbourhood is -embellished with numerous gentlemen’s seats, and commands -much varied scenery. The principal inns are the White Lion -and Cross Foxes.</p> -<p>The government of Ruthin is vested in a municipal -corporation. It is one of the contributory boroughs, with -Denbigh, Holt, and Wrexham, to return a member to -parliament. Ruthin has been made a polling-place in the -election of knights of the <a name="page189"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 189</span>shire; and from its central -situation, it has been selected, in preference to the town of -Denbigh, for holding the assizes for the county: the quarter -sessions are held alternately here and at Denbigh. The -town-hall, situated in the market-place, was built in 1663, and -is used for holding the courts leet and baron. Prior to the -erection of the county-hall, the quarter sessions were held -there. The county-hall is a modern structure, fronted with -white stone, and, with the county gaol and house of correction, -also situated here, is highly creditable to the skill of the -architect, Mr. Turner.</p> -<p>The church is an interesting and ancient structure, with a -fine roof of carved oak, panelled, richly sculptured, and -apparently of the time of Henry the Seventh. The church was -changed into a collegiate chapter <span -class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1310, by John de Grey, who formed an -establishment of several regular canons, and endowed it with -valuable lands and numerous privileges. The apartments of -the canons were connected with the church by a cloister, of which -a remaining portion has been converted into a residence for the -warden.</p> -<p>The town contains an endowed free grammar school, a national -school supported by voluntary subscriptions, and places of -worship for various dissenting congregations.—The present -rector is the Venerable Archdeacon Newcome, author of Memoirs of -Dr. Goodman, Dean of Westminster, and Dr. Godfrey Goodman, Bishop -of Gloucester, and also of some local histories.</p> -<p>The ancient castle occupied the declivity of a hill, fronting -the Vale of Clwyd towards the west, and, from the extensive -foundations and remaining portions of the walls, appears to have -been a structure of great strength and magnificence: the remains -consist chiefly of fragments of the towers, dungeons, and ruined -walls. This fortress was built by Edward the First, who in -1281 gave it, with the hundred of Dyffryn Clwyd, to Reginald de -Grey; from the family of Greys it devolved to Richard Earl of -Kent, who sold it to Henry the Seventh. It was afterwards -granted to Dudley Earl of Warwick, by Queen Elizabeth. -After the restoration, the castle and its dependencies were -purchased by Sir Richard Myddelton.</p> -<p>The elegant castellated mansion erected by the Hon. F. West, -within the ruins of the old castle, forms a beautiful feature in -the prospect of the town. The architect having blended the -ancient and modern parts with harmonious effect, the structure -displays great taste on the part of the projector. From -various <a name="page190"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -190</span>parts of the site are several rich and extensive -prospects. No tourist should omit a visit to Ruthin Castle, -which abounds with objects of interest to the student of British -history.</p> -<p>Near the town-hall is a rude block of lime-stone, called Maen -Huail, on which, it is said, the celebrated Prince Arthur -beheaded his rival Huail, brother to Gildas the historian. -Ruthin mill, a curious ancient edifice, having on the apex of the -eastern gable a red stone cross, is supposed to have been -originally the chapel of the cell of White Friars, mentioned by -Leland as formerly existing here, but of which no records are -preserved.</p> -<p>Dr. Goodman, Dean of Westminster, one of the translators of -Archbishop Parker’s Bible, and principal promoter of Bishop -Morgan’s Welsh translation; Edward Thelwall, tutor to Lord -Herbert of Chirbury; Dr. Parry, Bishop of St. Asaph; Dr. Goodman, -Bishop of Gloucester; Sir Eubule Thelwall, Knt., principal and -second founder of Jesus College, Oxford; and Sir Thomas Exmewe, -Lord Mayor of London in 1517, were natives of this place.</p> -<h4>Vale of Clwyd.</h4> -<p>This beautiful valley, called by the Welsh Dyffryn Clwyd (the -Vale of the Flat), commences three or four miles south of Ruthin; -enclosed by mountains, whose brown and barren summits form a fine -contrast to the verdant meads and luxuriant fields beneath, which -as far as the eye can reach present a most pleasing -picture. Towns, villages, and mansions, thickly studded -over the country, tend still more to enliven the cheering scene, -which is exceedingly beautiful and attractive.</p> -<p>This vale is the most extensive of any in Wales, being about -twenty-four miles in length, above Ruthin to Rhuddlan, and -varying from five to seven miles in breadth; it contains the -three considerable towns of Denbigh, Ruthin, and St. Asaph. -There are several of the adjacent heights whence the vale may be -seen to advantage; such are the Bwlch Pen-Barras, on the old road -to Mold, about four miles from Ruthin, and that part of the new -road by which the traveller descends into the vale, commencing -about three miles from the latter town; but the best station for -an extended view, is the eastern ridge of the mountain, between -Dymeirchion and Bodfari, about three hundred yards from Bryn -Bella. The view presents a most enchanting panorama of -natural scenery.</p> -<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">Angling -Station</span>.—The Clwyd.</p> -<h3><a name="page191"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 191</span>ST. -ASAPH,<br /> -(<i>Flintshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Abergele</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Conway</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">28</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Denbigh</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holywell</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">217</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Rhuddlan</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">3</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>St. Asaph, commonly called Llan Elwy, derived its origin and -name from the erection of a church on the bank of the river Elwy, -about the middle of the sixth century. The city is -beautifully situated on the gentle aclivity of an eminence, -washed on the eastern side by the river Clwyd, and on the west by -the Elwy, which unite at the distance of about a mile to the -north. The parish contains 3338 inhabitants. Over the -Elwy, at the extremity of the principal street, is a handsome -stone bridge of five arches; and over the Clwyd is a fine bridge -of more modern erection, within a quarter of a mile to the east -of the cathedral church. The White Lion and the Mostyn Arms -are the principal inns. St. Asaph has been added to the -other boroughs of this county, now eight in number, which -unitedly return one member to parliament.</p> -<p>The approach from Holywell to St. Asaph is commodious and -picturesque. The view of the city is peculiarly striking; -its elevated situation on an eminence near the termination of the -rich and fertile Vale of Clwyd, crowned on the summit with the -cathedral, and having the parish church at its base, makes it a -conspicuous object from every point; and the luxuriant groves of -trees in which it is deeply embosomed, give to it a romantic -appearance. The surrounding scenery, which abounds with -objects of interest and beauty, is seen to great advantage from -the heights of the city and from the grounds in the immediate -vicinity.</p> -<p>The cathedral consists chiefly of the structure raised by -Bishop Anian, the second of that name, about the year 1284, and -after its demolition by Owen Glyndwr, it was restored by Bishop -Redman, towards the close of the fifteenth century, with the -exception of the choir, which was rebuilt about the year 1770, by -the Dean and Chapter, with funds which had been vested in their -hands as trustees for that purpose. It is a cruciform -structure, principally in the decorated style of English -architecture, with a low square embattled tower, rising from the -intersection of the nave and transepts, and having at <a -name="page192"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 192</span>the -north-east angle a staircase turret: the exterior is of simple -but good design; the buttresses are few and of very bold -character, and the arch of the west door is plainly moulded: the -east end is ornamented with a window, which is said to be a -fac-simile of the east window in Tintern abbey, in Monmouthshire, -and in 1810 was filled with beautifully stained glass, at the -expense of the Dean and Chapter, aided by the contributions of -the gentry in the neighbourhood. The “good Bishop -Beveridge” was consecrated to this see in 1704.</p> -<p>The interior of the cathedral contains some interesting -monuments; an altar-tomb, with a recumbent figure in episcopal -robes, is said to commemorate the munificent prelate, Davydd ab -Owen, who was interred here in 1512; and near the west door is a -painted tomb, with an inscription to the memory of Bishop Isaac -Barrow, who died in 1680. There is a monument of white -marble, to the memory of Dean Shipley, by Ternouth, erected by -subscription about the year 1829, at an expense of £600, -consisting of a full-length figure of the Dean in his canonicals, -in a sitting posture; and also a neat altar-tomb monument to the -memory of Bishop Luxmore, who died in January, 1830, from a -design by T. Jones, Esq. of Chester. Among other objects of -interest to admirers of taste and genius, we may mention a mural -tablet to the memory of that charming poetess, the gifted Mrs. -Hemans. The choir is neatly fitted up, and the general -appearance of the interior remarkably gratifying, from its -appropriate solemnity and the excellent order in which it is -kept. A new organ was erected a few years since.</p> -<p>The episcopal palace, situated at a short distance to the west -of the cathedral, was rebuilt upon a more extensive scale and in -an appropriate style, at the expense of the late Bishop. -The deanery, about a quarter of a mile from the cathedral, and on -the west bank of the river Elwy, was also rebuilt by the present -Dean. Dr. T. V. Short is the present Bishop of St. -Asaph. The parochial church, dedicated to St. Asaph and St. -Kentegern, is situated at the base of the eminence, of which the -cathedral occupies the summit; it is a small edifice without a -tower, and is supposed to have been erected about the year -1524. There are places of worship for Independents, and -Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists.</p> -<p>The views in the neighbourhood are delightfully picturesque -and varied.</p> -<p style="text-align: center"> -<a href="images/p192b.jpg"> -<img alt= -"Picture of fishermen on lake" -title= -"Picture of fishermen on lake" - src="images/p192s.jpg" /> -</a></p> -<p><a name="page193"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 193</span>There -are numerous elegant mansions within the parish; among the most -conspicuous are—Kinmel, the seat of Lord Dinorben; -Bodelwyddan, the seat of Sir John Williams, Bart., one of the -handsomest residences of North Wales; Pengwern, that of Lord -Mostyn, built about the beginning of the last century; Cefn, that -of Edward Lloyd, Esq.; and Bronwylfa, the residence of Colonel -Sir Henry Browne, erected in the year 1660, and enlarged in -1816. In this last mansion are some valuable trophies taken -during the late war, amongst which are, Napoleon -Buonaparte’s travelling map and book of roads of the French -empire, in splendid morocco cases, emblazoned with the imperial -arms, taken from his library at Fontainbleau, by Sir Henry, in -1815 and a French field-marshal’s baton, two feet three -inches in length, covered with purple velvet, ornamented with -golden bees, and surmounted with an imperial crown, taken in -Silesia, in 1812, by a division of Blucher’s corps.</p> -<p>In the township of Cefn Meriadog are some magnificent natural -caverns, extending for a considerable distance into the limestone -rocks; in some parts of those the roof is more than forty feet in -height, and near the river Elwy the base of the rock is -perforated by a lofty natural arch, 21 yards in length, and 36 -feet high, through which is a road capable of admitting a wagon -loaded with hay. Various fossil remains have been found in -these caverns, which have been considered by Professor Buckland -as worthy of a personal scrutiny on the spot.</p> -<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">Angling -Station</span>.—Bodfari, four miles from St. Asaph.</p> -<h3>SNOWDON,<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>.)</h3> -<p>A chain of the highest mountains in Wales extends across -Caernarvonshire, from Bardsey Island to Penmaen Bach, near Conway -bay, gradually rising from each extremity towards the centre, -which is occupied by Snowdon. The name of this mountain was -first given to it by the Saxons, and signifies a hill covered -with snow; but the Welsh call all this adjacent range -Creigian-yr-Eyri (the Eagle’s Cliffs;) for it is not true, -as has been asserted, that snow may be found upon it through the -whole year. The temperature at the summit is generally very -low, even in summer. In July, just after sunrise, the -thermometer has been observed at 34 deg. and in August at 48 deg. -early in the afternoon.</p> -<p><a name="page194"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 194</span>The -perpendicular height of Snowdon is by late admeasurements 1190 -yards above the level of the sea. This makes it, according -to Pennant, 240 yards higher than Cader Idris. Some state -Whernside, in Yorkshire, to be the highest mountain in South -Britain, and more than 4000 feet. Helvelyn is 3324 feet, -Benlomond 3262. Mont Blanc rises 15,680 feet; the American -Chimboraco is 20,909 feet, the highest ground ever trodden by -man; and the mountain of Thibet above 25,000 feet, the highest at -present known.</p> -<p>The air on the top of Snowdon is sharp and bracing, and like -that in all other mountain districts, is salubrious and congenial -to health and longevity. It is seldom that persons who have -taste and leisure visit this part of Caernarvonshire without -ascending to the top of our British Alps; and those who make a -tour from motives of curiosity would think the omission almost -inexcusable. An important consideration for the tourist is -the point whence he should commence the ascent for the towering -summit of this majestic mountain. Dolbadarn, Llyn Cwellyn, -Beddgelert, and Llanberis, all put in their claims for -eligibility as a starting-place, and at each of these stations -trusty guides may be engaged. We are inclined to the -opinion that the Victoria Hotel at Llanberis is the spot from -which the most easy and convenient ascent may be effected.</p> -<p>It may readily be imagined that every resting point in -climbing this commanding eminence must reveal, amidst the -magnificent scenery of so romantic a district, views of -surpassing grandeur and beauty: and such indeed is the case to an -extent which the most vivid imagination can scarcely -conceive. The enthusiastic author of “The Beauties, -Harmonies, and Sublimity of Nature,” gives the following -glowing description of the prospects from the summit:—</p> -<blockquote><p>“After climbing over masses of crags and -rocks, we ascended the peak of Snowdon. Arrived at its -summit, a scene presented itself magnificent beyond the powers of -language! Indeed, language is indigent and impotent when it -would presume to sketch scenes on which the Great Eternal has -placed his matchless finger with delight. Faint are thy -broad and deep delineations, immortal Salvator Rosa! -Powerless and feeble are your inspirations, genius of Thomson, -Virgil, and Lucretius! From this point are seen -five-and-twenty lakes. Seated on one of its crags, it was -long before the eye, unaccustomed to measure such elevations, -could accommodate itself to scenes so admirable; the whole -appearing as if there had been a war <a name="page195"></a><span -class="pagenum">p. 195</span>of the elements, and as if we were -the only inhabitants of the globe permitted to contemplate the -ruins of the world. Rocks and mountains, which, when -observed from below, bear all the evidence of sublimity, when -viewed from the summit of Snowdon, are blended with others as -dark, as rugged, and as elevated as themselves; the whole -resembling the swellings of an agitated ocean. The extent -of this prospect appears almost unlimited. The four -kingdoms are seen at once: Wales, England, Scotland, and Ireland! -forming the finest panorama the empire can boast. The -circle begins with the mountains of Cumberland and Westmoreland; -those of Ingleborough and Penygent, in the county of York, and -the hills of Lancashire forefollow; then are observed the -counties of Chester, Flint, Denbigh, and a portion of -Montgomeryshire. Nearly the whole of Merioneth succeeds; -and drawing a line with the eye along the diameter of the circle, -we take in the regions stretching from the triple crown of Cader -Idris to the sterile crags of Carnedds David and Llywelyn. -Snowdon, rising in the centre, appears as if he could touch the -south with his right hand, and the north with his left. -‘Surely,’ thought Colonna, ‘Cesar sat upon -these crags, when he formed the daring conception of governing -the world!’ From Cader Idris, the eye, pursuing the -orbit of the bold geographical line, glances over the bay of -Cardigan, and reposes for a while on the summit of the -Rivals. After observing the indented shores of -Caernarvonshire, it travels along a line of ocean, till, in the -extremity of the horizon, the blue mountains of Wicklow terminate -the perspective. Those mountains gradually sink along the -coast till they are lost to the eye; which, ranging along the -expanse, at length, as weary of the journey, reposes on the -Island of Man, and the distant mountains of Scotland. The -intermediate space is occupied by the sides and summits of -mountains, hollow crags, masses of rocks, the towers of -Caernarvon, the fields of Anglesea, with woods, lakes, and glens, -scattered in magnificent confusion. A scene like this -commands our feelings to echo, as it were, in unison to its -grandeur and sublimity: the thrill of astonishment, and the -transport of imagination, seem to contend for the mastery, and -nerves are touched that never thrilled before.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>But it is not always thus. Earthly pleasures are often -greater in the anticipation than the enjoyment; and ardent hopes -are subject to occasional disappointments. Bright as the -day may be, mountain mists will sometimes intervene, and <a -name="page196"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 196</span>passing -clouds suddenly draw a curtain over these glorious revelations of -Almighty Power. Take, for instance, the narrative of the -King of Saxony’s ascent up Snowdon in July, 1844, his -Majesty’s excursion being made from Beddgelert:—</p> -<blockquote><p>“Early this morning, according to our -previous design, we made the ascent of Snowdon: the appearance of -the weather was by no means encouraging, the sky was lowering, -and the clouds hung deep around the mountain top. Still -there was no rain, many signs of a favourable change, and we took -our chance of the advantages in our favour and set out. We -made early preparation for our journey, and, at seven -o’clock, mounted a light carriage, accompanied by a skilful -guide. We followed the road towards the foot of the -mountain, as far up its flank as it was accessible to any -description of carriage. We commenced the ascent. Our -path lay for some distance over wet pasture and spongy meadows; -after which, the path became steeper, and occasional masses of -bold projecting rocks occurred. We were not the only -travellers, whom the day tempted to try their good fortune on the -summit of the highest mountain in England. Some ladies, -mounted on ponies, rode sometimes before and sometimes behind us, -and several parties followed them on foot. The summit of -the mountain lay concealed in clouds; the rocks stood forth bold -and black from the green of the Alpine meadows, on which the -beautiful yellow <i>anthericum ossifragum</i> grows in great -profusion, and a cold wind blew from the ravines which skirted -our path. A young Alpine lark, only imperfectly fledged, -fluttered along the ground before our feet; our guide easily -caught it with his hands, but the old ones flew around, uttering -such painful screams, that I induced him again to put the poor -panting little creature upon the grass, behind a large block of -stone. When we ascended a little further, the view to the -westward became partially free, and we saw the sea, the isle of -Anglesea, and Caernarvon Castle. As we ascended, however, -the clouds again closed around us, and finally we found ourselves -completely enveloped in the penetrating fog of these moist -goddesses. The ascent also in many places now became -difficult; the wind blew cold along the side of some rocky walls, -or from the depths of some neighbouring ravine; the thick fogs -continued to roll more densely along the mountain sides; but -fortunately, so far, they did not thoroughly penetrate our -clothes with their moisture.</p> -<p>“Still onward, from height to height! deep ravines lay -at our side, the bottom of which, filled with thick fog, yawned -horribly <a name="page197"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -197</span>below. Vegetation now almost wholly disappeared, -except merely a few rare Alpine plants, and on every side of us -rose lofty crags of black <i>chlorite slate</i>. Having -taken some repose after the efforts of the ascent, behind a -projecting rock which sheltered us from the wind, we again set -forth, and in about a quarter of an hour (two hours in all) we -reached the pinnacle of the mountain—4348 feet above the -level of the sea. View there was none! We found -refuge in a small wooden shed, erected for the protection of -travellers from the rain and wind, in which the host kept up a -welcome fire. The man presently prepared a singular brown -mixture, which he sold for coffee, and furnished some grayish -oatmeal cake as an accompaniment. There were no spirituous -liquors of any description to be had, because the occupier, with -no small degree of self-satisfaction, gave us to understand that -his wooden hut was to be regarded as a <i>Temperance -Inn</i>. Not far from this mountain hotel, which I must -state to be the first imperfect house of accommodation we had yet -met in England, was a small stone hut, in which the rest of the -travellers, together with their ponies, had found a harbour not -much better than our own.</p> -<p>“Having spent some time upon the summit, dried -ourselves, and ranged about among the craggy rocks and through -the fog, we found our visit was in vain—no hopes of the -weather clearing were longer entertained, and we prepared to -proceed on our descent. Before we had descended far from -the summit, the clouds presented occasional breaks, and we were -able to snatch partial views into the beautiful deep valleys -which lie between the converging ridges of the mountain; and on -one occasion the clouds rose like a curtain, and revealed to us a -splendid prospect of the sea. In these occasional glimpses, -we perceived for a moment that the declivities of the mountain -were enjoying the full beams of the sun, and immediately we were -again closely enveloped in our foggy mantle of clouds. -There was a continual play of currents of air and waves of fog -with the earth. Such phenomena furnish highly interesting -subjects of contemplation to those who have greater leisure for -their contemplation than we ourselves had. Of such -extraordinary atmospheric phenomena, however, it may be said, -they show the life of the clouds, but cloud the image of -life! If, however, the observation of such phenomena be -made the chief object of a whole excursion, they will be found to -have something in them unsatisfying. The unconscious life -of nature always falls in value in the eyes of him who has -thought upon <a name="page198"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -198</span>and experienced the mighty movements and impulses of -the mind and feelings. As I have already said, what signify -earth, and suns, and planets, if there were no eye to see, no -intelligence to give them life?</p> -<p>“Having proceeded somewhat further on the descent, our -guide prepared to follow a different route in our return, through -a deep precipitous valley, in which the king immediately -acquiesced. The task, however, was by no means easy; it -involved the necessity of going straight down a sharp declivity -of the mountain, at least 1000 feet high, and very sparingly -covered with moist earth and tufts of grass. We were -obliged to aid ourselves as well as we could by the firmness of -our tread, taking a zigzag course, and by the appliances of our -hands and sticks, at length reached the bottom in safety. -The path, however formidable to us, would, undoubtedly, not have -presented many difficulties to a well-trained Alpine hunter; to -those, however, who are not accustomed to such clambering, it -must be regarded as making a severe demand upon the exercise of -their muscular power, and as a species of training which, when -successfully completed, must always result in good. Even on -reaching the valley, there was no path, and we were obliged to -make our way over stock and stone, through bog and brook, till we -came to a lower and a smoother region. During our descent, -we were obliged to endure the alternative of heat and cold, of -sunshine and rain; at length we reached some mines, at which rude -paths began to appear, and presently after found ourselves at our -carriages, and drove by another road again back to -Beddgelert. On this road, too, we enjoyed the sight of some -splendid mountain scenery. The weather had now become clear -and sunny, while the top of Snowdon still lay thickly enveloped -in masses of dark clouds. A small lake lay stretched out -before us in the vale, full of picturesque beauty, and noble -mountains beside and beyond, rose and towered one above -another. I heartily envied an artist who had established -his <i>studio</i> on the edge of a mountain brook, and appeared -to be diligently engaged in his work. What a pleasure it -must be, to be engaged in an attempt to give a faithful -delineation of such noble forms! About half-past two we -reached the hotel at Beddgelert, and our mountain excursion was -at an end.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Let us be very earnest in impressing upon the minds of all -tourists one important injunction,—<i>never ascend Snowdon -without a guide</i>. It is unwise and perilous, even in the -brightest weather, to make such an attempt. A melancholy -instance <a name="page199"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -199</span>of this venturous spirit occurred in the autumn of -1846, when the Rev. H. S. Starr, of Northampton, ascended the -mountain without a guide; and doubtless perished in some of its -bogs or precipitous defiles, as from that period till now, no -trace of this unfortunate clergyman has been discovered.</p> -<p style="text-align: center">For Angling Stations, see -Llanberis.</p> -<h3>TAL-Y-LLYN,<br /> -(<i>Merionethshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Dolgelley</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dinas Mowddwy</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Machynlleth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Towyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This is a very picturesque little village, about half way -between Machynlleth and Dolgelley, deriving its name from the -church, at the head of a beautiful lake, appropriately called -Llyn Mwyngil, (The Lake of the Charming Retreat,) from the west -end of which issues the river Dysyni, taking its course to the -sea through Towyn Marsh. The scenery is remarkably -romantic, and is rendered more so by the lakes which are within -the limits of the parish. That of Tal-y-llyn is small but -beautiful; its greatest breadth is not more than half a mile, and -its length between one and two miles. Its northern -boundaries consist of rich pasture land, while on the south a -high green hill, covered only with short herbage, in fact a mere -sheep walk, rears itself to the clouds, and extends the whole -length. Its only piscatory productions are trout and eels; -the latter attaining a good size, and finding a safe protection -in the deep coat of moss which covers the bottom. Of the -trout there are two species, the large lake trout and the common -river trout, the latter finding their way into the lake by two or -three streams which feed it from the mountain; these never attain -any considerable size, but the others, being indigenous to the -pool, grow to a large size. The finest, which are caught -with a fly, vary from half a pound to between one and two pounds; -one weighing more than 12lb. was found a few winters ago, frozen -under the ice. The lake is the property of Colonel Vaughan, -who purchased it for no other purpose than that of affording his -friends the enjoyment of angling therein. The stranger, who -is perfectly unknown to the generous-hearted Welshman, is equally -welcome to participate in the sport, without the formality of -begging a day’s fishing, or even intimating his intention -to the proprietor. A new and commodious inn, near the -village, was built last year by Colonel <a -name="page200"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 200</span>Vaughan: it -affords good accommodations, and the charges are very -moderate.</p> -<p>Beside the lake already mentioned, there is another under the -summit of Cader Idris, called Llyn Cau, (the Pool of the Chasm,) -from its being situated under vast cliffs; it is about a quarter -of a mile long, and nearly of equal breadth, and has the -appearance of the crater of a volcano, at the head of the chasm, -through which a stream runs from the lake, and forms a fine -cataract, close to the ancient house of Dolydd Cau, and then -unites with another river, which meanders along the level vale -below, to the upper end of Llyn Mwyngil. The vale in which -it is situated is so contracted, as to leave, for a considerable -part of its length, only a very narrow road on each side of the -lake, from the clear surface of which are reflected its -precipitous declivities. Towards the extremity of the vale, -the lake contracts gradually into the form of a river, rushing -with much force through a stone arch into a very narrow pass, -having on one side the church, and on the other a small cluster -of houses, which form the village, embosomed in trees, and -assuming a romantically beautiful appearance.</p> -<p>At the distance of a mile or two from the church, the hills -almost meet, and present a sterile and rugged aspect; they are -broken into numberless crags, of which some are vertical and -sharply pointed, but the greater number project horizontally, and -impend with threatening gloom over the vale beneath. One of -these precipices, from its resemblance in form to a harp, has -been called Pen y Delyn; and another, from a tradition that it -was formerly the practice to throw thieves from its summit, has -been denominated Llan-y-Lladron (the Thieves’ Leap), a -practice corresponding with that related of the Tarpeian rock at -Rome.</p> -<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">Angling -Station</span>.—The Lake: good fishing. A boat.</p> -<h3>TOWYN,<br /> -(<i>Merionethshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Aberdovey</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">4</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Barmouth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dolgelley</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">226</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Machynlleth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Towyn is a market-town beautifully situated at the distance of -about a mile from the sea-coast, near the mouth of the river -Dysyni, in a small but pleasant vale. The return of the -population for the town and parish is 2694 inhabitants.</p> -<p><a name="page201"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -201</span>During summer, the place is much frequented for -sea-bathing, by persons who prefer retirement to the bustle of a -more fashionable watering place. Valetudinarians are also -attracted hither by St. Cadvan’s Well, much celebrated for -the cure of rheumatic, scrofulous, and cutaneous disorders. -The ride over the sands to Aberdovey, a rising place about four -miles distant, is very pleasant. A beautiful line of road -to that interesting village has been constructed, and is -continued from that place to Pennal, abounding with picturesque -scenery, and commanding views of Snowdon, Arran Mowddwy, Cader -Idris, and Plinlimmon.</p> -<p>Towyn is one of the places at which the poll is appointed to -be taken in the election of the parliamentary representative of -the county. The church, dedicated to St. Cadvan, is an -ancient cruciform structure, in the Norman style of architecture, -containing some curious old monuments, which the inquisitive -stranger ought not to leave unnoticed.</p> -<p>On a steep hill near the town are some remains of an ancient -castle of great strength; the fortifications comprehend the -entire summit of the eminence: one of the apartments, thirty-six -feet in diameter, was hewn out of the solid rock, Craig-y-Deryn -(the Bird’s Bock), situated in the vale of Dysyni, about -three or four miles from Towyn, is in the highest degree wild and -romantic. A small but picturesque waterfall may be seen at -Dôlgôch.</p> -<p>At a small distance from the town is Ynys-y-maengwyn, a noble -mansion, pleasantly situated in grounds tastefully laid out, and -embellished with flourishing plantations and timber of ancient -growth, among which is an evergreen oak, considered to be the -finest tree of its kind in the kingdom. The garden is very -extensive, and contains many rare trees and plants.</p> -<p>The angler will find excellent amusement in the Dysyni, which, -after rolling through a rude assemblage of rugged mountains, -flows through the fertile vale of Towyn, passing first by -Peniarth, a seat belonging to the Wynn family, and then by -Ynys-y-maengwyn, and finally entering Cardigan bay, about a mile -eastward of Towyn. This is an excellent river for salmon, -and it contains some remarkably dark and deep pools, more -especially near Peniarth, where the river winds close by the -house; the angler will also find good sport farther up the -mountains.</p> -<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">Angling -Station</span>.—The river, up to Tal-y-Llyn.</p> -<h3><a name="page202"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -202</span>TRAWS-FYNYDD,<br /> -(<i>Merionethshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Bala</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dolgelley</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This village is situated on the road from Dolgelley to -Tan-y-Bwlch, in an exposed and mountainous district. The -church is an ancient structure of the old English style of -architecture; the parish is of vast extent, being above ten miles -in length, and eight in breadth, consisting chiefly of barren -mountains, used only as sheep-walks. At this place a guide -may be had to the waterfalls of Pistyll-y-Cain and -Rhaiadr-y-Mawddach, distant about three or four miles.</p> -<p>On the road side towards Ffestiniog is Llyn Rathlyn, a small -lake, noted for a singular variety of perch, having the lower -extremity of the back-bone strangely distorted. The -celebrated Humphrey Lloyd, who was consecrated Bishop of Bangor -in 1673, was born at Bôd-y-Vuddai, in the parish of -Traws-fynydd.</p> -<h3>TREMADOC,<br /> -(<i>Caernarvonshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Barmouth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ditto, by Tan-y-Bwlch</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">30</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Beddgelert</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">7</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ffestiniog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">13</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Harlech</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ditto, by Tan-y-Bwlch</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">20</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pwllheli</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Tan-y-Bwlch</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">10</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Tremadoc is a market-town and sea-port of very recent origin, -and is a signal instance of the triumph of perseverance over -apparently insurmountable local difficulties. It derives -its name from its enterprising founder, the late Wm. Alexander -Madock, Esq. This gentleman, having projected a plan for -regaining from the sea a portion of the land on the western side -of the wide sandy estuary called the Traeth Mawr, purchased the -estate of Tan-yr-Allt, in the immediate vicinity, in 1798, and in -1800 succeeded in recovering a tract of nearly two thousand acres -of rich land, then forming Penmorfa Marsh, which now produces -excellent crops of wheat, barley, and clover, to which he gave -the appropriate name of Glandwr.</p> -<p>Encouraged by the success of his first attempt, Mr. Madock was -induced to undertake the more arduous enterprise of reclaiming -the whole of the Traeth Mawr; and for this purpose he obtained in -1808 an act of parliament, vesting in him and his heirs the whole -extent of these sands, from Pont Aberglâslyn, <a -name="page203"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 203</span>at their -head, to the point of Gêst, at their lower extremity. -Notwithstanding the numerous unforeseen obstacles which -threatened to frustrate the undertaking, Mr. Madock succeeded in -constructing across the mouth of the Traeth Mawr, at the eastern -extremity of Cardigan bay, an embankment of earth and stones, -nearly one mile in length, from north to south, varying from 100 -to 400 feet in breadth at the base, and diminishing gradually to -the summit, which is 100 feet high from the foundation. By -means of this embankment, a line of communication has been formed -between the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth, and a tract of -more than 2700 acres of land was recovered from the sea, besides -a vast extent of adjoining land, which was before overflowed by -the tides, but which is now, by draining, rendered susceptible of -cultivation. This arduous enterprise was completed in 1811, -at an expense of more than £100,000; and, including the -lands previously recovered, not less than 7,000 acres have been -gained.</p> -<p>The town is situated by the side of a lofty mountain, on the -western side of Traeth Mawr, on a portion of the tract first -recovered from the sea, and is built in the form of a square -quadrangular area, having in the centre a lofty column, round the -pedestal of which there is a flight of twelve steps. On the -eastern side a commodious market-house has been erected, above -which is an assembly-room. Mr. Madock also built, at his -own expense, a handsome church, in the late style of English -architecture, with a lofty spire, which forms an interesting -object as seen from the sea-coast.</p> -<p>Tan-yr-Allt, the seat of the late W. A. Madock, Esq., is a -spacious modern mansion of elegant design, situated on a rock -overlooking the town. Morfa Lodge, and -Tuhwnt-i’r-Bwlch, erected also by that gentleman, are -handsome villas in the immediate vicinity of the town. -Captain Parry, R.N. of Llwyn-on, Denbighshire, has also a seat -called Aberdunant, between this place and Beddgelert.</p> -<p>With a view to promote the commercial interests of the town -which he had founded, Mr. Madock, in 1821, obtained an act of -parliament for improving the navigation of this part of the bay -on which it is situated, and thus rendered it accessible to -vessels of three hundred tons burden: commodious quays and wharfs -were also constructed.</p> -<p>The last improvement carried into effect was the erection of -Port Madoc, about one mile from the town, where many good houses -have been built. The principal exports are slates, from <a -name="page204"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 204</span>the -Ffestiniog quarries, and copper ore, which is brought from the -neighbouring mines. The chief imports are timber, coal, and -lime. A rail-road also runs to this place from the quarries -and mines in the neighbourhood. The road from Tremadoc to -Beddgelert commands to great advantage the scenery of the -Merionethshire side of the Traeth, and affords a delightful ride -to Pont Aberglaslyn and its vicinity.</p> -<h3>WELSHPOOL,<br /> -(<i>Montgomeryshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanfair</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>London</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">171</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Montgomery</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Newtown</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">14</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Oswestry</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Shrewsbury</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">18</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>This town is called Welsh, to distinguish it from a town of -the same name in Dorsetshire, and Pool, from its proximity to a -piece of water called Llyn-du Pool, now within the inclosure of -Powys park. The town, which Leland describes as being in -the reign of Henry the Eighth, “the best market in -Powys,” still retains that character, in addition to which -it may justly be regarded as the modern capital of the county, -and, with the parish, contains 4626 inhabitants. The town -has a cheerful and prepossessing appearance. The flannel -manufacture is carried on here, but upon a less scale than at -Llanidloes or Newtown. A considerable trade is carried on -in malt, and there are likewise several large tanneries. -Welshpool is made contributory with Llanidloes, Llanfyllyn, -Machynlleth, Montgomery, and Newtown, in returning a member to -parliament. The assizes for the county are held here. -The town-hall is a commodious building of brick, in the centre of -the principal street.</p> -<p>The church, with the exception of the chancel and the tower, -was rebuilt in 1774. It is in the early style of English -architecture, with a lofty square embattled tower, and its -interior accommodation was enlarged by the addition of galleries -in 1824. Amongst the communion plate, there is a chalice of -fine gold, holding one quart, and valued at £170; engraved -on it is a Latin inscription, stating it to have been presented -to the church of Pool, by Thomas Davies, Governor-general of the -English colonies on the western coast of Africa, in gratitude for -the preservation of his life during his residence in that -unhealthy clime.</p> -<h4><a name="page205"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -205</span>Powys Castle,</h4> -<p>the seat of the Earl of Powys, is a stately but irregular pile -of building, venerable for its antiquity: it is pleasantly -situated in a well-wooded park, at the distance of a mile from -the town, on the right of the road leading to Montgomery, and -occupies a commanding site on a ridge of rocks overlooking a vast -extent of richly diversified country, the greater part of which -was formerly subject to its lord. The views from its -extensive and richly wooded park are remarkably interesting and -beautiful.</p> -<h4>Angling Stations.</h4> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p style="text-align: center"><i>Distances from -Welshpool</i>.</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: center"><i>Miles</i>.</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Berriew, on the confluence of the Rhiw and Severn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">5</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llandysylio, on the Vyrnwy</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">8</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llandrinio</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">9</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanvyllin, the Abel, Cain, and Vyrnwy</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<h3>WREXHAM,<br /> -(<i>Denbighshire</i>.)</h3> -<table> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">12</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llangollen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">11½</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Oswestry</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">6</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ruthin</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right">16</p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<p>Wrexham is a large and well-built town, whose population, -including the parish, was returned in 1841 at 12,981 -inhabitants. From its extent and importance, it has -sometimes been denominated the metropolis of North Wales. -The town is pleasantly situated at the junction of the -Shrewsbury. Welshpool, Oswestry, and Chester roads, and in -the centre of the mining and manufacturing districts of the -eastern part of Denbighshire. Races are annually held early -in October, on a course a little north-west of the town, on the -right of the road to Mold. Wrexham is one of the principal -stations on the Shrewsbury and Chester Railway.</p> -<p>No particular branch of trade or manufacture is carried on in -the town; but the parish, which is about twelve miles in length, -abounds with mineral wealth, and extensive works of various kinds -are carried on in different parts of it. The principal inns -are the Wynnstay Arms and the Lion. Markets are held on -Thursday and Saturday, the former being the chief market -day. There are several fairs held annually for cattle; but -the principal one is that which commences on the 23d of March, -and continues for fourteen days. For the accommodation of -the various dealers attending it, five extensive areas are fitted -up with shops and booths. A new and handsome <a -name="page206"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 206</span>market-hall -has also been lately built, and cheese fairs established. -Wrexham is contributory with Denbigh, Holt, and Ruthin, in the -return of a parliamentary representative.</p> -<p>The church, dedicated to St. Giles, is a spacious and noble -Gothic structure, deservedly regarded as one of the finest -ecclesiastical edifices in the Principality. It was erected -in the year 1472, the tower not being finished till 1506, as -appears by a date on the building. The exterior is -elaborately embellished with sculpture; and the tower, which is -very lofty and highly enriched, consists of several successive -stages, panelled throughout, and decorated with numerous statues -of saints in canopied niches: from its elevation, and the light -open-work turrets by which it is crowned at the angles, it forms -a conspicuous and interesting object in the surrounding -landscape. It has a remarkably fine carved roof: and a -noble altar-piece, designed by Mr. Jones of Chester, and worked -in stone by Mr. Blayney of that city; the east window being -filled with beautifully stained glass by Mr. Evans, of -Shrewsbury.</p> -<p>In the chancel is an altar-tomb, on which is a recumbent -effigy of Dr. Bellot, successively Bishop of Bangor and Chester, -who died in 1596, and was there interred. Nearly opposite -to this tomb is an interesting monument, by Roubilliac, to the -memory of Mrs. Mary Myddelton, of Chirk Castle, representing a -female rising from the tomb in all the freshness of youth and -beauty, at the sound of the last trumpet which is to summon the -dead to judgment. At the corner of the aisle is also a -monument by Roubilliac, to the Rev. Thomas Myddelton and Arabella -his wife; and there are monuments to Wm. Lloyd, Esq. and his son, -the Fitzhughs, the Pulestons, the Longuevilles, Sir Foster and -Lady Cunliffe, and other families in the neighbourhood..</p> -<p>About a mile from Wrexham, on the right of the road leading to -Chester, is Acton Park, the residence of Sir R. H. Cunliffe, -Bart., a spacious mansion, delightfully situated in extensive -grounds, richly diversified with picturesque and romantic -scenery, and commanding pleasing views of the town and adjacent -country. Acton was the birth-place of the notorious Judge -Jeffreys, who obtained so bad an eminence in the reign of James -the Second.</p> -<h2><a name="page207"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -207</span>INDEX.</h2> -<table> -<tr> -<td></td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span -class="GutSmall">PAGE.</span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Aber</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page1">1</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Aberdaron</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page5">5</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Aberdovey</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page6">6</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Aberffraw</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page7">7</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Abergele</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page8">8</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Aberystwyth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page13">13</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Acton Park</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page206">206</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Amlwch</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page22">22</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bala</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page24">24</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bangor (Caernarvonshire)</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page28">28</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bangor Is-y-coed</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page52">52</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bardsey Island</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page6">6</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Barmouth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page53">53</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Baron Hill</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page58">58</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Basingwerk Abbey</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page133">133</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Beaumaris</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page55">55</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Beaumaris Bay</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page60">60</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Beddgelert</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page63">63</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Bettws-y-Coed</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page69">69</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Buckley Mountain</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page122">122</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Cader Idris</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page70">70</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Caergwrle</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page73">73</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Caernarvon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page73">73</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Caerwys</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page80">80</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Capel Curig</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page82">82</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Castell Dinas Brân</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page151">151</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Cerig-y-Druidion</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page88">88</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Cerniogau Mawr</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page89">89</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ceunant Mawr</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page139">139</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Chester</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page89">89</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan='2'><p style="text-align: center">(See also -Introduction.)</p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Chirk</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page89">89</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Clynog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page92">92</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Conway</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page93">93</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Corwen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page99">99</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Cricaeth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page100">100</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Devil’s Bridge</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page18">18</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dee River</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page27">27</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Denbigh</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page101">101</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Diganwy</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page97">97</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dinas Mowddwy</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page105">105</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dinorwic</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page105">105</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Diserth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page105">105</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dolbadarn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page138">138</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dolgelley</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page106">106</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Dolwyddelan Castle</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page83">83</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Downing</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page134">134</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ewloe Castle</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page122">122</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ffestiniog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page110">110</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Flint</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page112">112</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Golden Grove</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page136">136</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Gorphwysfa</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page140">140</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Gresford</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page115">115</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Gwydir</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page162">162</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Gwytherin</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page163">163</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Gyrn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page136">136</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Hanmer</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page116">116</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Harlech</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page117">117</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Havod</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page18">18</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Hawarden</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page119">119</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holt</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page124">124</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holyhead</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page124">124</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Holywell</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page128">128</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Hope</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page73">73</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Kymmer Abbey</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page108">108</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Lake Ogwen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page84">84</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanasa</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page135">135</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanberis</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page137">137</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanddulas</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page11">11</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llandegai</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page141">141</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p><a name="page208"></a><span class="pagenum">p. -208</span>Llandudno</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page142">142</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanedwen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page143">143</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanelian</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page143">143</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanerch-y-medd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page144">144</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanervul</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page144">144</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanfair (Anglesea)</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page146">146</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanfair (Montgomerysh.)</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page147">147</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanfyllyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page148">148</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llangefni</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page148">148</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llangollen</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page149">149</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llangynog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page155">155</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanhaiarn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page155">155</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanidan</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page156">156</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanidloes</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page157">157</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanrhaiadr</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page159">159</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanrhaiadr-yn-Mochnant</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page160">160</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanrwst</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page160">160</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llanvaes Abbey</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page60">60</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Llyn Idwal</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page85">85</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Machynlleth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page164">164</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Maen-twrog</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page166">166</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Maes Garmon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page170">170</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mallwyd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page168">168</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Menai Bridge</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page33">33</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Menai Railway Bridge</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page38">38</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Moel Fammau</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page171">171</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Moel Siabod</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page83">83</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mold</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page168">168</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mona Inn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page172">172</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Montgomery</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page172">172</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Mostyn Hall</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page135">135</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Nannau Park</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page109">109</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Nant Ffrancon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page84">84</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Nevyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page173">173</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Newborough</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page174">174</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Newmarket</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page174">174</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Newtown</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page176">176</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Northop</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page177">177</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Offa’s Dyke</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page170">170</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ogwen Bank</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page44">44</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Oswestry</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page177">177</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Overton</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page178">178</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Penmaen Mawr</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page178">178</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Penmaen Priory</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page60">60</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Penmorfa</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page179">179</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Penmynydd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page180">180</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Penrhyn Castle</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page40">40</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pentraeth</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page59">59</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pentre Voelas</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page180">180</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pillar of Eliseg</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page152">152</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pistyll Rhaiadr</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page160">160</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Plâs Newydd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page150">150</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Plâs Newydd (Anglesea)</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page180">180</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Plinlimmon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page158">158</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pont Aberglaslyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page68">68</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pont Cysylltau</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page152">152</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pont-y-Glyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page181">181</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Powys Castle</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page205">205</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Puffin Island</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page61">61</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Pwllheli</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page182">182</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Rhaiadr-y-Wennol</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page84">84</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Rhuddlan</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page183">183</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Rhyl</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page185">185</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ruabon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page186">186</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Ruthin</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page188">188</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Slate Quarries, near Bangor</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page42">42</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Snowdon</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page193">193</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>St. Asaph</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page191">191</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>St. George</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page12">12</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Talacre</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page136">136</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Tal-y-llyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page199">199</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Tan-y-Bwlch</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page166">166</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>The Tower (Mold)</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page171">171</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Towyn</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page200">200</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Traws-fynydd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page202">202</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Trefriw</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page163">163</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Tremadoc</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page202">202</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Vale Crucis Abbey</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page151">151</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Vale of Clwyd</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page190">190</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Welshpool</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page204">204</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Wrexham</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page205">205</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td><p>Wynnstay</p> -</td> -<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a -href="#page187">187</a></span></p> -</td> -</tr> -</table> -<h2>MAP.</h2> -<p>[The book contains a large map which unfortunately is too big -to scan entire. It’s provided here as four -parts.—DP.]</p> -<p style="text-align: center">North-West Wales (top)</p> -<p style="text-align: center"> -<a href="images/map-nwb.jpg"> -<img alt= -"North-West Wales, top" -title= -"North-West Wales, top" - src="images/map-nws.jpg" /> -</a></p> -<p style="text-align: center">North-East Wales (top)</p> -<p style="text-align: center"> -<a href="images/map-neb.jpg"> -<img alt= -"North-East Wales, top" -title= -"North-East Wales, top" - src="images/map-nes.jpg" /> -</a></p> -<p style="text-align: center">North-West Wales (bottom)</p> -<p style="text-align: center"> -<a href="images/map-swb.jpg"> -<img alt= -"North-West Wales, bottom" -title= -"North-West Wales, bottom" - src="images/map-sws.jpg" /> -</a></p> -<p style="text-align: center">North-East Wales (bottom)</p> -<p style="text-align: center"> -<a href="images/map-seb.jpg"> -<img alt= -"North-East Wales, bottom" -title= -"North-East Wales, bottom" - src="images/map-ses.jpg" /> -</a></p> -<h2>FOOTNOTES.</h2> -<p><a name="footnote0"></a><a href="#citation0" -class="footnote">[0]</a> The largest stone arch before -known is Vielle Briode, which crosses the river Allien, in -France, whose span is 183 feet, being 17 feet less than the -Chester bridge. It was erected in 1454, by Grenier.</p> -<p><a name="footnote8"></a><a href="#citation8" -class="footnote">[8]</a> From <i>Aber</i>, -rivulet—<i>Gele</i>, woody, secluded; a name very -characteristic of the place, as the rivulet running through it -issues out of deep wood ravines above the town.</p> -<p><a name="footnote10"></a><a href="#citation10" -class="footnote">[10]</a> The silurian rocks to the west of -Abergele, have recently been brought under the notice of the -Geological Society by Mr. J. E. Bowmall. That gentleman, in -an able paper presented to the society, states that his attention -was first directed to these strata by the Rev. J. Price, of -Llysfaen. They occur immediately south of the narrow belt -of carboniferous limestone which skirts the coast from the Great -Ormeshead to the point of Ayr, and the estuary of the Dee. -The section described by Mr. Bowmall presents the following -series of beds in descending order, many of the fossils -discovered in them being identified with those found in the -Ludlow formation of Shropshire:—1. Carboniferous -limestone. 2. Light coloured loam enclosing rounded -pebbles of greenish, slightly micaceous sandstone with -shells. 3. Bed of the same sandstone. 4. -Red marl of considerable thickness, with imbedded angular and -waterworn pebbles, and numerous fossils. 5. -Arenaceous conglomerate, consisting partly of the pebbles of the -underlying limestone. 6. Thin beds of compact reddish -limestone, sometimes very arenaceous, and containing a few -fossils. 7. Blue clay. 8. Blue clay -slate, occasionally enclosing layers of organic remains, and -forming the geological base of the country.</p> -<p><a name="footnote12"></a><a href="#citation12" -class="footnote">[12]</a> There is a tradition current in -this neighbourhood, that Oliver Cromwell was concealed at Kinmel, -when Carter (his general) lived there; and there is a spur of -extraordinary dimensions still hung in the above church, which is -called Oliver Cromwell’s spur.</p> -<p><a name="footnote73"></a><a href="#citation73" -class="footnote">[73]</a> Called by the Welsh, <span -class="smcap">Estyn</span>.</p> -<p><a name="footnote76"></a><a href="#citation76" -class="footnote">[76]</a> So called from the circumstance -of Eleanor (daughter of Ferdinand the Third) the consort of -Edward, who was brought, through the inclemency of a hard winter, -to bear a prince for the Welsh,—having first entered the -castle through this gate. At this time the castle was -entirely insulated, on one side by artificial means: the moat was -destroyed by being filled up two or three centuries ago, which -somewhat detracts from our estimate of its former impregnable -character.</p> -<p>‘Edward had annexed Wales to the kingdom of England, but -the Welsh were displeased with this usurpation, and determined to -yield no obedience to any prince but of their own nation and -language. Edward thought of an expedient for cozening -them. He ordered Eleanor, in the depth of winter, out of -England to Caernarvon Castle, there to lie in. Edward then -summoned all the barons and chief persons throughout Wales to -meet him at Rhuddlan, to consult about the welfare of their -country. He told the Welsh nobility that they had often -wished for a prince of their own country, who might rule over -them. They promised to allow of such an appointment, and to -obey such a personage. Edward then mentioned <i>his own son -Edward</i>, recently born, maintaining the terms of the -engagement to have been strictly complied with, for his son was -born in Wales, could speak no English, and his character -irreproachable. Though born in 1284, it was not before he -had reached his 16th year that Prince Edward received the -reluctant fealty of his deluded subjects. The eldest sons -of the English monarchs have subsequently been styled Prince of -Wales, and, independently of birth, been created so by letters -patent.’—<i>Nicholson</i>.</p> -<p><a name="footnote87"></a><a href="#citation87" -class="footnote">[87]</a> Dunawt was the son of Nefydd -Hardd, one of the fifteen tribes of North Wales: to him Prince -Owen Gwynedd had intrusted his son to be fostered, according to -the usual custom.</p> -<p><a name="footnote102a"></a><a href="#citation102a" -class="footnote">[102a]</a> The common Welsh name is -Eglwys-wen, and the translation is a vulgarism.</p> -<p><a name="footnote102b"></a><a href="#citation102b" -class="footnote">[102b]</a> Richard Myddelton was the -father of Sir Hugh Myddelton, who brought the new river to -London.</p> -<p><a name="footnote130"></a><a href="#citation130" -class="footnote">[130]</a> Sych, i.e. <i>dry</i>, and nant, -a <i>hollow</i>, a <i>brook</i>.</p> -<p><a name="footnote140"></a><a href="#citation140" -class="footnote">[140]</a> The term <i>Cromlech</i>, used -to signify a Druidical altar, cannot be property attached to this -stone: it being quite improbable that it ever was used to such -purpose; but the continued action of the elements has placed it -as it is.</p> -<p><a name="footnote146"></a><a href="#citation146" -class="footnote">[146]</a> There being several parishes of -this name in the Principality, this is distinguished by the -adjunction of Mathavarneithav.</p> -<pre> - - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXCURSIONS IN NORTH WALES*** - - -***** This file should be named 64164-h.htm or 64164-h.zip****** - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/4/1/6/64164 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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