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-The Project Gutenberg eBook, Excursions in North Wales, by John Hicklin
-
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-
-Title: Excursions in North Wales
- A Complete Guide to the Tourist through that Romantic Country
-
-
-Author: John Hicklin
-
-
-
-Release Date: December 29, 2020 [eBook #64164]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-
-***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXCURSIONS IN NORTH WALES***
-
-
-Transcribed from the 1847 Whittaker and Co. edition by David Price.
-
- [Picture: Conway Bridge & Castle]
-
-
-
-
-
- EXCURSIONS
- IN
- NORTH WALES:
-
-
- A COMPLETE
- GUIDE TO THE TOURIST
- THROUGH
- THAT ROMANTIC COUNTRY;
-
- CONTAINING DESCRIPTIONS
- OF ITS
- PICTURESQUE BEAUTIES, HISTORICAL ANTIQUITIES
- AND MODERN WONDERS.
-
- * * * * *
-
- * * * * *
-
- EDITED BY JOHN HICKLIN,
- OF THE CHESTER COURANT.
-
- * * * * *
-
- LONDON:
- WHITTAKER AND CO.; HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO.;
- LONGMAN AND CO.; AND SIMPKIN AND CO.
- R. GROOMBRIDGE & SONS.
- W. CURRY AND CO., DUBLIN.
- GEORGE PRICHARD (LATE SEACOME & PRICHARD), CHESTER.
-
- * * * * *
-
- 1847.
-
-
-
-
-INTRODUCTION.
-
-
-The ancient City of Chester is unquestionably the most attractive and
-convenient starting-place, from which should commence the journey of the
-tourist, who is desirous of exploring the beautiful and romantic country
-of North Wales, with its lovely valleys, its majestic mountains, its
-placid lakes, its rushing torrents, its rural retreats, and its
-picturesque castles. Before leaving Chester, however, it will amply
-repay the intelligent traveller to devote some time to the examination of
-the many objects of interest, with which the “old city” abounds. A
-ramble round the Walls, embracing a circuit of about two miles, will not
-only disclose to the stranger a succession of views, illustrative of the
-quaint architecture and the singular formation of the city, but will
-reveal a series of landscapes of the most varied and charming
-description; while the ancient fortifications themselves, with their four
-gates and rugged towers, serve to exemplify the features of that troubled
-age, when they were erected for the protection of our ancestors against
-hostile invasions. Another striking peculiarity of Chester is the
-construction of the covered promenades, or Rows, in which the principal
-mercantile establishments are situated: unique and very curious are these
-old arcades, which are as interesting to the antiquarian, as they are
-convenient for a quiet lounge to ladies and others engaged in “shopping.”
-The singular old houses, too, with their elaborately carved gables, of
-which Watergate-street, Bridge-street, and Northgate-street, furnish some
-remarkable specimens, will naturally attract attention. Among public
-edifices, the venerable Cathedral, though not possessing much claim to
-external elegance, is replete with interest, from the style of its
-architecture, and the many historical associations which a visit within
-its sacred precincts awakens. The cloisters and the chapter-house are
-interesting memorials of olden time; while the beautiful and effective
-restoration of the choir, which has lately been completed under the
-skilful superintendence of Mr. Hussey, of Birmingham, commands the
-admiration of all who take pleasure in ecclesiological improvements. The
-fittings of the interior have been entirely renovated; the Bishop’s
-throne, a splendid and characteristic erection, has been restored; a new
-stone pulpit (the gift of Sir E. S. Walker, of Chester) has been
-introduced, to harmonise with the style of the building; an altar screen,
-to divide the Lady Chapel from the choir, has been presented by the Rev.
-P. W. Hamilton, of Hoole; the eastern windows have been filled with
-stained glass, of admirable design and execution, by Mr. Wailes, of
-Newcastle; and a powerful organ, which cost £1000, has been built by
-Messrs. Gray and Davison, of London. The expenses of the restoration
-were defrayed by public subscription; and too much praise cannot be given
-to the Dean (Dr. F. Anson) for the zeal and liberality with which he has
-promoted these gratifying improvements, as well as for the efficient and
-orderly manner in which the choral services of the Cathedral are
-conducted. The fine old Church of St. John the Baptist, which in the
-tenth century was the Cathedral of the diocese, with the adjacent ruins
-of the Priory, should not be left unvisited; and St. Mary’s Church also
-presents, in its roof and monuments, some objects of interest worth
-examining. Of the ancient Castle, very little, except Julius Cæsar’s
-tower, remains; but a magnificent modern structure, for military and
-county purposes, has been erected on the site of the old edifice, after
-designs by the late Mr. Harrison, of Chester. The shire-hall is an
-elegant fabric of light-coloured stone, the principal entrance to which
-is through a portico of twelve columns in double rows, 22 feet high, and
-3 feet 1½ inch in diameter, each formed of a single stone. The
-court-room is a spacious semi-circular hall, lighted from above. The
-county prison is behind, on a lower level, whence prisoners are brought
-into the dock by a flight of steps. The extremities of the county-hall
-are flanked by two uniform elegant buildings, facing each other,
-appropriated as barracks for the officers and soldiers of the garrison.
-In the higher ward is an armoury, where from thirty to forty thousand
-stand of arms, and other munitions of war, are constantly kept, in the
-same beautifully arranged manner as at the Tower of London. The spacious
-open area in front of the Castle is enclosed by a semi-circular wall,
-surmounted with iron railings; in the centre is the grand entrance, of
-Doric architecture, greatly admired for its chaste construction and
-elegant execution. The front view is classical and imposing.
-
-A noble Bridge crosses the Dee at the south-east angle of the Roodee, the
-picturesque Race-course of Chester; it is approached by a new road from
-the centre of Bridge-street, which passes by the castle esplanade,
-proceeds across the city walls, and then by an immense embankment thrown
-over a deep valley. The bridge consists of one main stone arch, with a
-small dry arch or towing path on each side, by which the land
-communication is preserved on both sides of the river. The
-distinguishing feature of this edifice is the unparalleled width of the
-chord or span of the main arch, which is of greater extent than that of
-any other arch of masonry known to have been constructed. Of its
-dimensions the following is an accurate delineation:—The span of the arch
-is _two hundred feet_; {0} the height of the arch from the springing
-line, 40 feet; the dimensions of the main abutments, 48 feet wide by 40,
-with a dry arch as a towing path at each side, 20 feet wide, flanked with
-immense wing walls, to support the embankment. The whole length of the
-road-way, 340 feet. Width of the bridge from outside the parapet walls,
-35 feet 6 inches, divided thus: carriage-road, 24 feet; the two
-causeways, 9 feet; thickness of the parapet walls, 2 feet 6 inches.
-Altitude from the top of the parapet wall to the river at low water mark,
-66 feet 6 inches. The architectural plan of this bridge was furnished by
-the late Mr. Thomas Harrison; Mr. James Trubshaw, of Newcastle,
-Staffordshire, was the builder; Mr. Jesse Hartley, of Liverpool, the
-surveyor. The bridge was formally opened in October, 1832, by her Royal
-Highness the Princess (now Queen) Victoria, on occasion of her visit and
-that of her royal parent, the Duchess of Kent, to Eaton Hall. As a
-compliment to her noble host, the bridge was named Grosvenor Bridge by
-the young Princess.
-
-Our limited space prevents us from entering into particular descriptions
-of other buildings and antiquities, which might well claim our attention;
-as the remarkable Crypt and Roman Bath in Bridge-street, the Museum at
-the Water Tower, the Blue Goat Hospital, the Training College, the Linen
-Hall, the Episcopal Palace, the Exchange, &c.; but we must not omit to
-remind the stranger, that when at Chester, he is only three miles distant
-from that magnificent modern mansion, Eaton Hall, the seat of the Marquis
-of Westminster. The approach to the beautiful and extensive park in
-which this princely abode is situated, is by an elegant Lodge on the
-Grosvenor Road, about a quarter of a mile from Chester Castle; or the
-excursion may be made by a boat on the lucid bosom of the river Dee,
-which runs through verdant meads and lovely scenery close by the
-pleasure-grounds of the Hall. Visitors must be careful to provide
-themselves with tickets, which may be obtained of the publisher of this
-little work in Bridge-street Row, or they will not be admitted to view
-the interior of the mansion. The elaborate adornments, the gorgeous
-fittings, and the truly magnificent architecture of Eaton Hall, with its
-superb furniture, its beautiful pictures, and exquisite sculpture, never
-fail to excite the most lively admiration; and to pass it without a call,
-would be held by the residents of this neighbourhood to be a sort of
-topographical heresy, of which tourists should not be guilty.
-
-Having satisfied their taste and curiosity by exploring the attractions
-and characteristics of Chester and the vicinity, we will suppose that our
-travellers are now ready to proceed into Wales; and for the purpose of
-directing and enlivening their journey, we present them, in this little
-Manual, with a faithful Guide and an amusing Companion by the way. The
-admirer of Nature, in her wildest or her loveliest guise; the man of
-antiquarian research, the student of history, the valetudinarian in quest
-of health, or the ardent votary of “the rod and line,” anxiously seeking
-for favourable spots where the angler may best indulge his piscatorial
-fancies; may find in the following pages some information adapted to his
-taste and pursuits.
-
-Among the other advantages which Chester possesses as a starting-place
-for visiting the Principality, may be mentioned its position as a grand
-central terminus, where the London and North Western, the Chester and
-Holyhead, the Shrewsbury and Chester, the Chester and Birkenhead, and the
-Lancashire and Cheshire Junction Railways, meet. A splendid station,
-commensurate with the requirements of the traffic from this combination
-of railway interests, will forthwith be built at Chester, at an estimated
-cost of £80,000. The Shrewsbury and Chester line being now open as far
-as Ruabon, pleasant excursions can easily be made to the vale of
-Gresford, Wrexham, Wynnstay Park, and Llangollen: and as in August of
-this year (1847) the Chester and Holyhead Railway will be opened as for
-as Conway, visits to that delightful locality, including the intermediate
-stations for Flint, Mostyn, St. Asaph, Rhyl, and Abergele, may then be
-enjoyed in a day. Facilities like these will no doubt tend greatly to
-increase the number of tourists to North Wales; where the principal
-hotels are admirably conducted, and carriages, cars, and horses, with
-civil drivers well acquainted with the country, may be engaged on
-satisfactory terms.
-
-It may not be without its use to indicate a few excursions, which would
-include some of the most interesting and romantic parts of the
-Principality. From Chester, a charming trip may be taken to Hawarden,
-Holywell, St. Asaph, Abergele, Conway, Aber, Bangor, Menai Bridge,
-Beaumaris; returning by Penrhyn Castle, the Nant Ffrancon Slate Quarries,
-Capel Curig, Rhaiadr-y-Wennol, Bettws-y-Coed, Pentrevoelas, Corwen,
-Llangollen, Wynnstay Park, Wrexham, Eaton Hall, Chester; or Eaton Hall
-may be taken on leaving Chester, Wrexham next, and so on to Beaumaris,
-returning by Conway and Holywell. This route may be comfortably
-accomplished in four days; or if pressed for time, in three, as the
-railway would be available from Ruabon (Wynnstay Park) to Chester.
-
-Another excursion, which would occupy four days, might be made by taking
-the railway from Chester to Birkenhead, embarking at Liverpool in the
-steam-packet which passes Beaumaris and the Menai bridge for Caernarvon,
-thence to Beddgelert, Pont Aberglaslyn, and return, ascend Snowdon,
-descend to Dolbadarn, Pass of Llanberis, Capel Curig, Rhaiadr-y-Wennol,
-and return by Nant Ffrancon slate quarries, Penrhyn Castle and Bangor,
-thence by steamer to Liverpool.
-
-An agreeable and more extended route may also be taken from Caernarvon to
-Clynog, Pwllheli, Criccieth, Tremadoc, Port Madoc, Tan-y-bwlch,
-Maentwrog, Ffestiniog, Beddgelert, Nant Gwynan, Capel Curig,
-Rhaiadr-y-Wennol, Bettws-y-coed, Llanrwst, Conway, Penmaen Mawr, Aber,
-and Bangor for the packet to Liverpool.
-
-Another journey may be accomplished in nine days:—from Chester to Eaton
-hall, Wrexham, Wynnstay, Chirk Castle, Llangollen, Valle Crucis Abbey,
-Corwen, Vale of Edeirnion, Bala, Dolgelley, Cader Idris, Barmouth,
-Harlech, Maentwrog, Tan-y-Bwlch, Ffestiniog, Port Madoc, Tremadoc, Pont
-Aberglaslyn, Beddgelert, Capel Curig, Dolbadarn, Victoria Hotel, Snowdon,
-Caernarvon, Menai bridge, Bangor, Aber, Conway, Abergele, St. Asaph,
-Denbigh, Ruthin, Mold, Chester.
-
-Those whose time is less limited can readily select tours which will
-include a wider range of country, according to their taste and
-convenience; we have, therefore, adopted, in our literary panorama, an
-alphabetical arrangement, which, with the aid of the index, will direct
-the reader to the description of any place he may be desirous of
-visiting; and, as the distances are also marked, he may readily calculate
-the extent of the route he contemplates. The work has been compiled from
-authentic sources, and has been carefully revised, throughout, by the
-present editor, with the view of presenting to the public an accurate and
-entertaining Guide-book through North Wales.
-
-
-
-
-GLOSSARY.
-
-
-The English traveller, in passing through North Wales, will find the
-following Welsh terms frequently occur in the names of places; to which
-are subjoined their significations in English.
-
-_Ab_, or _Ap_, a prefix to proper names, signifying the son of
-
-_Aber_, the fall of one water into another, a confluence.
-
-_Am_, about, around.
-
-_Ar_, upon, bordering upon.
-
-_Avon_, or _Afon_, a river.
-
-_Bach_, little, small.
-
-_Ban_, high, lofty, tall.
-
-_Bedd_, a grave or sepulchre.
-
-_Bettws_, a station between hill and vale.
-
-_Blaen_, a point or end.
-
-_Bôd_, a residence.
-
-_Braich_, a branch, an arm.
-
-_Bron_, the breast, the slope of a hill.
-
-_Bryn_, a hill, a mount.
-
-_Bwlch_, a gap, defile, or pass.
-
-_Bychan_, little, small.
-
-_Cader_, a hill-fortress, a chair.
-
-_Cae_, an inclosure, a hedge.
-
-_Cantref_, a hundred of a shire, a district.
-
-_Caer_, a city, a fort, a defensive wall.
-
-_Capel_, a chapel.
-
-_Carn_, a heap.
-
-_Carnedd_, a heap of stones.
-
-_Careg_, a stone.
-
-_Castell_, a castle, fortress.
-
-_Cefn_, ridge, the upper side, the back.
-
-_Cell_, a cell; also a grove.
-
-_Cil_, (pronounced keel) a retreat, a recess.
-
-_Clawdd_, a hedge, a dyke.
-
-_Clogwyn_, a precipice.
-
-_Côch_, red.
-
-_Coed_, a wood.
-
-_Cors_, a bog or fen.
-
-_Craig_, a rock or crag.
-
-_Croes_, a cross.
-
-_Cwm_, a valley, vale, or glen.
-
-_Dinas_, a city, or fort, a fortified place.
-
-_Dôl_, a meadow or dale, in the bend of the river.
-
-_Drws_, a door-way, a pass.
-
-_Dû_, black.
-
-_Dwfr_, or _Dwr_, water.
-
-_Dyffryn_, a valley.
-
-_Eglwys_, a church.
-
-_Ffordd_, a way, a road, a passage.
-
-_Ffynnon_, a well, a spring.
-
-_Gallt_, (mutable into _Allt_) a cliff, an ascent, the side of a hill.
-
-_Garth_, a hill bending round.
-
-_Glàn_, a brink or shore.
-
-_Glâs_, bluish, or grayish green.
-
-_Glyn_, a glen or valley through which a river runs.
-
-_Gwern_, a watery meadow.
-
-_Gwydd_, a wood.
-
-_Gwyn_, white, fair.
-
-_Gwys_, a summons.
-
-_Havod_, a summer residence.
-
-_Is_, lower, inferior, nether.
-
-_Llan_, church, a smooth area, an inclosure.
-
-_Llwyn_, a grove.
-
-_Llyn_, a lake, a pool.
-
-_Maen_, a stone.
-
-_Maes_, a plain, an open field.
-
-_Mawr_, great, large.
-
-_Melin_, a mill.
-
-_Moel_, a smooth conical hill.
-
-_Mynydd_, a mountain.
-
-_Nant_, a ravine, a brook.
-
-_Newydd_, new, fresh.
-
-_Pant_, a hollow, a valley.
-
-_Pen_, a head, a summit; also chief, or end.
-
-_Pentref_, a village, a hamlet.
-
-_Pistyll_, a spout, a cataract.
-
-_Plâs_, a hall or palace.
-
-_Plwyf_, a parish.
-
-_Pont_, a bridge.
-
-_Porth_, a ferry, a port, a gateway.
-
-_Pwll_, a pit, a pool.
-
-_Rhaiadr_, a cataract.
-
-_Rhiw_, an ascent.
-
-_Rhôs_, a moist plain or meadow.
-
-_Rhŷd_, a ford.
-
-_Sarn_, a causeway, a pavement.
-
-_Swydd_, a shire; also an office.
-
-_Tàl_, the front or head; also tall.
-
-_Tàn_, under.
-
-_Traeth_, a sand or shore.
-
-_Tre_, or _Tref_, a home, a town.
-
-_Tri_, three.
-
-_Troed_, a foot, the skirt of a hill.
-
-_Twr_, a tower.
-
-_Tŷ_, a house.
-
-_Waun_ (from _Gwaun_), a meadow, downs.
-
-_Y_, the, of.
-
-_Yn_, in, at, into.
-
-_Ynys_, an island.
-
-_Ystrad_, a vale, a dale.
-
-_Yspytty_, a hospital, an almshouse.
-
-
-
-
-NORTH WALES DISTANCE TABLE
-
- Distance Distance
- from from
- Chester. London.
- 46 Aberconway or Conway, _f._ (market day) 230
- 34 Abergele 12 Abergele, _s._ 225
- 39 Bala 32 45 Bala, _s._ 195
- 61 Bangor 15 27 46 Bangor, _f._ 242
- 68 Beaumaris 22 34 53 7 Beaumaris, _tu._ and _f._ 249
- 70 Caernarvon 24 36 41 9 13 Caernarvon, _s._ 244
- 31 Corwen 35 32 12 41 49 50 Corwen, _w._ and _f._ 194
- 25 Denbigh 23 14 26 37 44 46 18 Denbigh, _w._ and _s._ 214
- 57 Dolgelley 50 58 18 47 51 38 30 44 Dolgelley, _tu._ and _s._ 213
- 14 Flint 34 23 34 49 56 58 26 17 52 Flint 203
- 69 Haerlech 45 56 34 36 40 27 47 58 19 64 Haerlech, _s._ 232
- 7 Hawarden 40 28 33 55 62 64 25 20 51 8 63 Hawarden, _s._ 196
- 86 Holyhead 40 52 71 25 28 30 66 62 68 74 57 80 Holyhead, _s._ 267
- 18 Holywell 29 18 37 45 52 54 28 12 62 5 70 11 70 Holywell, _f._ 207
- 23 Llangollen 45 36 22 51 58 60 10 23 40 31 56 31 76 34 Llangollen, _s._ 184
- 69 Llanidloes 82 90 50 81 85 72 65 77 34 77 53 74 106 80 55 Llanidloes, _s._ 188
- 51 Llanrwst 12 20 20 23 30 32 23 20 38 37 33 40 48 32 33 70 Llanrwst, _tu._ and _s._ 218
- 70 Machynlleth 64 72 32 62 69 53 44 58 15 66 36 66 87 69 54 20 53 Machynlleth, _w._ 206
- 12 Mold 39 30 27 53 60 62 19 16 45 7 60 6 78 10 24 77 36 59 Mold, (by Wrexham), _w._ & _s._ 189
- 49 Montgomery 79 72 43 87 93 84 45 58 44 58 63 55 112 61 35 23 66 37 51 Montgomery, _th._ 169
- 58 Newtown 76 77 44 87 93 85 51 63 41 63 60 62 112 66 41 14 64 28 56 9 Newtown, _tu._ & _s._ 175
- 21 Pwllheli 45 57 43 30 34 21 68 67 37 79 25 85 51 75 65 71 37 52 70 76 78 Pwllheli, _w._ & _s._ 243
- 21 Ruthin 31 22 18 45 52 54 10 8 36 16 48 15 70 18 15 69 28 49 10 50 55 59 Ruthin, _m._ & _s._ 206
- 28 St. Asaph 19 8 38 34 41 43 24 6 56 15 64 21 59 10 28 88 26 70 18 64 69 69 14 St. Asaph, _f._ 218
- 41 Welshpool 67 63 35 79 86 76 34 49 36 44 55 48 104 59 27 28 57 42 42 8 14 85 41 55 Welshpool, _th._ 171
- 12 Wrexham 48 39 34 62 69 71 22 25 52 19 69 16 87 22 12 58 46 67 12 39 44 78 18 31 30 Wrexham 177
-
-
-
-
-PANORAMA.
-
-
-ABER,
-(_Caernarvonshire_.)
-
- _Distance from_ _Miles_.
-Port Penrhyn 5
-Llanvair Vechan 2
-Conway 9
-Penmaen Mawr 3
-Llandegai 3½
-London 245
-
-ABER, or, as it is called by way of distinction, Aber-gwyngregyn, the
-Stream of the White Shells, is a small neat village, situated on the
-Holyhead and Chester road, near the Lavan Sands, at the extremity of a
-luxuriant vale watered by the river Gwyngregyn, which runs into the Irish
-sea; it commands a fine view of the entrance into the Menai, with the
-islands of Anglesea and Priestholme, and the vast expanse of water which
-rolls beneath the ragged Ormesheads. The pleasantness of its situation,
-and the salubrity of its air, render this place exceedingly attractive
-during the summer season, and the beach, at high water, is very
-convenient for sea bathing.
-
-The church is an ancient structure, with a square tower; the living being
-in the gift of Sir R. W. Bulkeley.
-
-The Bulkeley Arms is an excellent inn, where post-chaises and cars may be
-had.
-
-This is considered a very convenient station for such persons as wish to
-examine Penmaen-mawr, and the adjacent country, either as naturalists or
-artists. From this place also persons frequently cross the Menai straits
-immediately into Anglesea, in a direction towards Beaumaris. The
-distance is somewhat more than six miles. When the tide is out, the
-Lavan Sands are dry for four miles, in the same direction, over which the
-passenger has to walk within a short distance of the opposite shore,
-where the ferry-boat plies. In fogs, the passage over these sands has
-been found very dangerous, and many have been lost in making the
-hazardous enterprise at such times. As a very salutary precaution, the
-bell of Aber church, which was presented for the purpose by the late Lord
-Bulkeley, in 1817, is rung in foggy weather, with a view to direct those
-persons whose business compels them to make the experiment. It would be
-dangerous for a stranger to undertake the journey without a guide, as the
-sands frequently shift: however, since the erection of the Menai bridge,
-this route is seldom taken.
-
-The village is situated at the mouth of the deep glen, which runs in a
-straight line a mile and a half between the mountains, and is bounded on
-one side by a magnificent rock, called Maes-y-Gaer. At the extremity of
-this glen, a mountain presents a concave front, down the centre of which
-a vast cataract precipitates itself in a double fall, upwards of sixty
-feet in height, presenting in its rushing torrent over the scattered
-fragments of rock a grand and picturesque appearance.
-
-At the entrance of the glen, close to the village, is an extensive
-artificial mount, flat at the top, and near sixty feet in diameter,
-widening towards the base. It was once the site of castle belonging to
-the renowned prince, Llewelyn the Great, foundations are yet to be seen
-round the summit; and in digging, traces of buildings have been
-discovered. This spot is famous as the scene of the reputed amour of
-William de Breos, an English baron, with the wife of the Welsh hero, and
-of the tragical occurrence which followed its detection. This
-transaction, which has given rise to a popular legend, is well told in
-Miss Costello’s “Pictorial Tour,” published in 1845:—
-
-Llywelyn had been induced by the artful promises of the smooth traitor,
-king John, to accept the hand of his daughter, the princess Joan; but his
-having thus allied himself did not prevent the aggressions of his
-father-in-law, and John having cruelly murdered twenty-eight hostages,
-sons of the highest Welsh nobility, Llywelyn’s indignation overcame all
-other considerations, and he attacked John in all his castles between the
-Dee and Conway, and, for that time freed North Wales from the English
-yoke.
-
-There are many stories told of the princess Joan, or Joanna, somewhat
-contradictory, but generally received: she was, of course, not popular
-with the Welsh, and the court bard, in singing the praise of the prince,
-even goes so far as to speak of a female favourite of Llywelyn’s, instead
-of naming his wife: perhaps he wrote his ode at the time when she was in
-disgrace, in consequence of misconduct attributed to her. It is related
-that Llywelyn, at the battle of Montgomery, took prisoner William de
-Breos, one of the knights of the English court, and while he remained his
-captive treated him well, and rather as a friend than enemy. This
-kindness was repaid by De Breos with treachery, for he ventured to form
-an attachment to the princess Joan, perhaps to renew one already begun
-before her marriage with the Welsh prince. He was liberated, and
-returned to his own country; but scarcely was he gone than evil whispers
-were breathed into the ear of Llywelyn, and vengeance entirely possessed
-his mind: he, however, dissembled his feelings, and, still feigning the
-same friendship, he invited De Breos to come to his palace at Aber as a
-guest. The lover of the princess Joan readily accepted the invitation,
-hoping once more to behold his mistress; but he knew not the fate which
-hung over him, or he would not have entered the portal of the man he had
-injured so gaily as he did.
-
-The next morning the princess Joan walked forth early, in a musing mood:
-she was young, beautiful, she had been admired and caressed in her
-father’s court, was there the theme of minstrels and the lady of many a
-tournament—to what avail? her hand without her heart had been bestowed on
-a brave but uneducated prince, whom she could regard as little less than
-savage, who had no ideas in common with her, to whom all the refinements
-of the Norman court were unknown, and whose uncouth people, and warlike
-habits, and rugged pomp, were all distasteful to her. Perhaps she sighed
-as she thought of the days when the handsome young De Breos broke a lance
-in her honour, and she rejoiced, yet regretted, that the dangerous
-knight, the admired and gallant William, was again beneath her husband’s
-roof. In this state of mind she was met by the bard, an artful retainer
-of Llywelyn, who hated all of English blood, and whose lays were never
-awakened but in honour of his chief, but who contrived to deceive her
-into a belief that he both pitied and was attached to her. Observing her
-pensive air, and guessing at its cause, he entered into conversation with
-her, and having ‘beguiled her of her tears’ by his melody, he at length
-ventured on these dangerous words.—
-
- “Diccyn, doccyn, gwraig Llywelyn,
- Beth a roit ti am weled Gwilym?”
-
- “Tell me, wife of Llywelyn, what would you give for sight of your
- William?”
-
-The princess, thrown off her guard, and confiding in harper’s faith,
-imprudently exclaimed:—
-
- “Cymru, Lloegr, a Llywelyn,
- Y rown i gyd am weled Gwilym!”
-
- “Wales, and England, and Llywelyn—all would I give to behold my
- William!”
-
-The harper smiled bitterly, and, taking her arm, pointed slowly with his
-finger in the direction of a neighbouring hill, where, at a place called
-Wern Grogedig, grew a lofty tree, from the branches of which a form was
-hanging, which she too well recognised as that of the unfortunate William
-de Breos.
-
-In a dismal cave beneath that spot was buried “the young, the beautiful,
-the brave;” and the princess Joan dared not shed a tear to his memory.
-Tradition points out the place, which is called Cae Gwilym Dhu.
-
-Notwithstanding this tragical episode, the princess and her husband
-managed to live well together afterwards; whether she convinced him of
-his error, and he repented his hasty vengeance, or whether he thought it
-bettor policy to appear satisfied; at all events, Joan frequently
-interfered between her husband and father to prevent bloodshed, and
-sometimes succeeded. On one occasion she did so with some effect, at a
-time when the Welsh prince was encamped on a mountain above Ogwen lake,
-called Carnedd Llywelyn from that circumstance; when he saw from the
-heights his country in ruins, and Bangor in flames. Davydd, the son of
-the princess, was Llywelyn’s favourite son. Joan died in 1237, and was
-buried in a monastery of Dominican friars at Llanvaes, near Beaumaris;
-Llywelyn erected over her a splendid monument, which existed till Henry
-the Eighth gave the monastery to one of his courtiers to pillage, and the
-chapel became a barn. The coffin, which was all that remained of the
-tomb, like that of Llywelyn himself, was thrown into a little brook, and
-for two hundred and fifty years was used as a watering trough for cattle.
-It is now preserved at Baron Hill, near Beaumaris.
-
-
-
-ABERDARON,
-(_Caernarvonshire_.)
-
-Caernarvon 36
-Nevyn 16
-Pwllheli 16
-
-
-
-This is a miserably poor village, at the very extremity of
-Caernarvonshire, seated in a bay, beneath some high and sandy cliffs. On
-the summit of a promontory are the ruins of a small church, called Capel
-Vair, or Chapel of our Lady. The chapel was placed here to give the
-seamen an opportunity of invoking the tutelar saint for protection
-through the dangerous sound. Not far distant, are also the ruins of
-another chapel, called Anhaelog. At this spot, pilgrims in days of yore
-embarked on their weary journey to pay their vows at the graves of the
-saints of Bardsey.
-
-The original church was a very old structure, in the style of ancient
-English architecture, dedicated to St. Hyrwyn, a saint of the island of
-Bardsey, and was formerly collegiate and had the privilege of sanctuary;
-it contained a nave, south aisle, and chancel, and was an elegant and
-highly finished building. A new church has been recently built, on the
-site of the old one, at the expense of the landed proprietors, aided by
-the church building societies.
-
-The mouth of the bay is guarded by two little islands, called Ynys
-Gwylan, a security to the small craft of the inhabitants, who are chiefly
-fishermen. It takes its name from the rivulet Daron, which empties
-itself here.
-
-This primitive village is noted as the birth place of Richard Robert
-Jones, alias Dick Aberdaron, the celebrated Welsh linguist. He was born
-in 1778, and died in deep distress at St. Asaph in 1843. Jones was the
-son of a carpenter, and always evinced a want of capacity, except in the
-acquiring of languages by self culture. He began with the Latin tongue
-when fifteen years of age. At nineteen he commenced with Greek, and
-proceeded with Hebrew, Persiac, Arabic, French, Italian, and other modern
-languages; and was ultimately conversant with thirteen. Notwithstanding
-that he read all the best authors, particularly in the Greek, he seemed
-to acquire no other knowledge than as to the form and construction of
-language. He was always in great indigence, and used to parade the
-streets of Liverpool extremely dirty and ragged, with some mutilated
-stores of literature under his arm, and wearing his beard several inches
-long. He was at one time much noticed by the late Mr. Roscoe, who
-secured him a weekly stipend, which however was not maintained after the
-death of that distinguished scholar.
-
-
-Bardsey Island,
-
-
-Generally called by the Welsh Yr Ynys Enlli (the Island of the Current),
-and formerly known as the Island of the Saints, is situated about three
-leagues to the west of Aberdaron; it is somewhat more than two miles long
-and one broad, and contains about 370 acres of land, of which near
-one-third is occupied by a high mountain, affording sustenance only to a
-few sheep and rabbits. The number of inhabitants does not exceed one
-hundred, and their chief employment is fishing, there being great
-abundance round the island. It is the property of Lord Newborough.
-
-On the south-east side, which is only accessible to the mariner, there is
-a small well sheltered harbour, capable of admitting vessels of 30 or 40
-tons burden. The lighthouse was erected in 1821; it is a handsome square
-tower, 74 feet high, and surmounted by a lantern, 10 feet high.
-
-This island was formerly celebrated for an abbey, a few portions only of
-which are now remaining. Dubricius, archbishop of Caerlleon, resigned
-his see to St. David, retired here, and died A.D. 612; he was interred
-upon the spot, but such was the veneration paid to his memory in after
-ages, that his remains were removed in the year 1107 to Llandaff, and
-interred in that cathedral, of which Dubricius had been the first bishop.
-After the slaughter of the monks of Bangor Is-y-coed, nine hundred
-persecuted men who had embraced Christianity, sought a sacred refuge in
-this island, where numbers of the devout had already established a
-sanctuary, and found repose from the troubles which then raged through
-the Principality.
-
-
-
-ABERDOVEY,
-(_Merionethshire_.)
-
-Aberystwyth across the sands 11
-Barmouth 16
-Dolgellau 21
-Machynlleth 10
-Towyn 4
-
-This is a small sea-port in the parish of Towyn, and about four miles
-from that place. It is pleasantly situated on the northern side of the
-mouth of the river Dovey, which here empties itself into Cardigan bay,
-and is rapidly rising into estimation as a bathing place. The beach is
-highly favourable for bathing, being composed of hard firm sand,
-affording a perfectly safe carriage-drive of about eight miles in length,
-along the margin of the sea. The ride to Towyn along the sands, at low
-water, is extremely delightful.
-
-Several respectable houses and a commodious hotel (the Corbet Arms) have
-of late years been erected for the accommodation of visitors; and a
-chapel of ease has also been lately built by subscription, which affords
-great convenience to the inhabitants, who are four miles distant from the
-parish church. Service is performed every Sunday morning in English, and
-in the afternoon in the Welsh language.
-
-The river Dovey is here one mile in width, and is crossed by a ferry,
-which leads by a road along the sea shore to Borth, whence is a
-communication with the Aberystwyth road. During the spring tides the
-ferry can only be crossed at low water, on account of the sands being
-flooded, and so rendered impassable. The river is navigable nine miles
-up a most picturesque country, and affords good trout fishing.
-
-
-
-ABERFFRAW,
-(_Anglesea_.)
-
-Caernarvon Ferry 3
-Mona Inn 8
-Newborough 7
-
-Aberffraw, once a princely residence, is now reduced to a few small
-houses; it is situated on the river Ffraw, near a small bay. Not a
-vestige is to be seen of its former importance, except the rude wall of
-an old barn, and Gardd y Llys, at the west end of the town. It was a
-chief seat of the native princes, and one of the three courts of justice
-for the Principality. Here was always kept one of the three copies of
-the ancient code of laws. This place is of great antiquity, being one of
-three selected by Roderic the Great, about 870, for the residence of his
-successors. In 962 it was ravaged by the Irish. An extent was made of
-Aberffraw in the 13th Edward III, from which may be learned some of the
-ancient revenues of the Welsh princes. It appeared that part arose from
-the rents of lands, from the profits of mills and fisheries, and often
-from things taken in kind; but the last more frequently commuted for
-their value in money. There is a good inn called the Prince Llywelyn.
-
-Near to Aberffraw is Bodorgan, the seat of Owen Augustus Fuller Meyrick,
-Esq., which is pleasantly situated, and overlooks Caernarvon bay. The
-mansion, gardens, and conservatories are worth a visit from the tourist
-
-
-
-ABERGELE,
-(_Denbighshire_.)
-
-Bangor 27
-Chester 35
-Conway 12
-London 225
-Rhuddlan 5
-Rhyl 7
-St. Asaph 8
-
-Abergele, {8} a market town, is pleasantly situated on the great Chester
-and Holyhead road, on the edge of Rhuddlan marsh, and about a mile from
-the sea shore. The church is ancient, with a plain uninteresting tower,
-which the white-washing hand of modern “improvement” has deprived of all
-pretensions to the picturesque. The town consists only of one long
-street; and in 1841, its population, with the parish, was returned at
-2661.
-
-The coast is composed of firm hard sands, affording delightful drives for
-many miles. Tradition says, the sea has in old time overflowed a vast
-tract of inhabited country, once extending at least three miles
-northward; as an evidence of which, a dateless epitaph, in Welsh, on the
-church-yard wall, is cited, which is thus translated: “In this church
-yard lies a man who lived three miles to the north of it.” There is,
-however, much stronger proof in the fact, that at low water may be seen,
-at a distance from the clayey bank, a long tract of hard loam, in which
-are imbedded numerous bodies of oak trees, tolerably entire, but so soft
-as to cut with a knife as easily as wax: the wood is collected by the
-poorer people, and, after being brought to dry upon the beach, is used as
-fuel.
-
-The salubrity of the air, the pleasantness of situation, and the
-superiority of its shore for sea-bathing, have rendered this town a
-favourite resort for genteel company, and it has long been a fashionable
-watering place. The environs are picturesque, the scenery beautiful, and
-many interesting excursions may be made from this locality. The Bee
-Hotel, one of the best in the kingdom, is a most comfortable house, and
-possesses superior accommodations; and there are some excellent private
-lodgings to be had in the town: for those who would prefer a more
-immediate contiguity to the sea, there are cottages close to the beach,
-fit for respectable families, and apartments may be had from farmers, who
-are in the habit of accommodating visitors for the summer season.
-Bateman Jones, Esq. has a handsome residence on the road between the town
-and the beach. Besides the Chester and Holyhead and other mails that
-pass through Abergele, there is an omnibus which runs daily to Voryd, to
-meet the Liverpool and Rhyl steam-packet.
-
-The pretty villages of Bettws and Llanfair are in this immediate
-neighbourhood: near the former is Coed Coch, the residence of J. Ll.
-Wynn, Esq. Llanfair is most picturesquely situated on the Elwy, a little
-way above its conflux with the Aled. Close to the village is Garthewin,
-the sylvan residence of Brownlow W. Wynne, Esq. embowered in trees; and
-following up the Elwy and its narrow but beautiful valley, is the village
-of Llangerniew; near to it is Llyn Elwy, the pool from which issues and
-gives name to the river Elwy. Havod-unos, about a quarter of a mile from
-the village, is the seat of S. Sandbach, Esq. an eminent Liverpool
-merchant, who some time ago purchased it and the estate, once the
-property of a long list of _ap Llwyds_. Two or three miles to the
-south-east, lies the village of Llansannan, at the head of the pretty
-vale of Aled. Close below the village is the elegant modern mansion of
-the Yorkes, called Dyffryn Aled: it is built of Bath free stone, and
-presents a very beautiful and classical structure. These are places a
-little out of the common track of tourists, but they will not be
-disappointed at visiting them; and from Abergele is the most convenient
-start to them. The roads are good; the country very beautiful; trout
-fishing is excellent in the Elwy and Aled from their sources, the Aled
-and Elwy pools, to Rhuddlan; and the villages afford very good passing-by
-accommodations.
-
-On the hills above Abergele, grow some of the more uncommon plants;
-geranium sanguineum, rubia peregrina, halloboris fœtidus. In the shady
-wood, paris quadrifolia, and ophrys nidus avis; and on the beach,
-glaucium luteum, and eryngium maritimum abundantly. The hills are
-interesting to the geologist as well as to the botanist; and command
-remarkably grand and extensive views of the ocean, and of the adjacent
-mountain scenery.
-
-About a mile from Abergele, on the left of the road towards Conway,
-stands Gwrych Castle, a modern castellated mansion, the property and
-residence of Henry Lloyd Bamford Hesketh, Esq. The situation is
-admirably chosen for a magnificent sea view, which, owing to the constant
-passing of vessels for the ports of Liverpool and Chester, is extremely
-beautiful and animated. Very near to this singular but ambitious looking
-structure, is a huge calcareous rock, called Cefn-yr-Ogo (or the Back of
-the Cavern), an inexhaustible mine of limestone, where a multitude of
-labourers are constantly employed in blasting the rock, and breaking the
-masses, which are exported to Liverpool and other places. But what
-chiefly renders it curious is the circumstance of a number of natural
-caverns penetrating its side in different places; one of which, called
-Ogo (or the Cavern), is well worth a visit. It is celebrated in history
-as having once afforded a place of retreat to a British army. Its mouth
-resembles the huge arched entrance of a Gothic cathedral. A few feet
-within this, and immediately in the centre of it, a rock rising from the
-floor to the lofty roof, not unlike a massive pillar rudely sculptured,
-divides the cavern into two apartments. The hollow to the left soon
-terminates; but that to the right spreads into a large chamber, 30 feet
-in height, and stretching to a greater depth than human curiosity has
-ever been hardy enough to explore. Making a short turn a few yards from
-the entrance, and sweeping into the interior of the mountain, the form
-and dimension of the abyss are concealed in impenetrable darkness, and
-its windings can only be followed about forty yards with prudence, when
-the light totally disappears, and the flooring becomes both dirty and
-unsafe. Stalactites of various fanciful forms decorate the fretted roof
-and sides of this extraordinary cavern. {10}
-
-From Cave Hill (Cefn-yr-Ogo), is an extensive and varied prospect. The
-city of St. Asaph, the Vale of Clwyd, the mountains of Flintshire, and in
-clear weather, a portion of Cheshire and Lancashire, with the town of
-Liverpool, are distinctly seen to the eastward; and to the north is
-visible the Isle of Man; to the west, the Island of Anglesea; and to the
-south-west, the mountains of Caernarvonshire. Just below is the small
-village of
-
-
-Llanddulas.
-
-
-In this little village or glen it is supposed that Richard the Second was
-surrounded and taken by a band of ruffians, secreted by the Earl of
-Northumberland, for the purpose of forcing him into the hands of
-Bolingbroke, who was at Flint. Here enterprise has discovered the means
-of realizing wealth. A railway, several miles long, has been constructed
-from the sea to Llysfaen limestone rocks, being on a remarkably steep
-incline down the side of the mountain. It is a stupendous work, and
-highly creditable to the projector, Mr. Jones.
-
-About two miles nearer Conway, is the increasing and respectable village
-of Colwyn. A new church has lately been erected here. Glan-y-don, the
-seat of H. Hesketh, Esq., is in this neighbourhood; Mr. Wynne and Dr.
-Cumming have cottages here, and many other genteel residences have
-recently been built. The sea bathing is very good, and the place is
-pleasant and salubrious. Up the valley, to the left of the bridge, is
-the village of Llanelian, with its calm green meadows, and its far-famed
-holywell, or Ffynan Fair.
-
-Returning to Abergele, and at the opposite end, is a good and direct road
-to Rhuddlan, through a number of excellent and extensive corn farms. The
-road crosses the celebrated Morva Rhuddlan (or Rhuddlan Marsh).
-
-About three miles on the St. Asaph road is the neat and clean little
-village of
-
-
-St. George, or Llan Saint Sior; {12}
-
-
-And about a quarter of a mile before you come to it, you pass on your
-right Pen-y-Parc Hill, on the top of which is a Roman encampment,
-afterwards occupied by the famous Owen Gwynedd, during his struggles
-against English encroachments; and it was here he pitched his tents after
-his “fine retreat before Henry the Second, whom he here kept at bay.”
-The curious may visit it from the village, inquiring for Park Meirch,
-_where the old battles were fought_. And close to this place is
-Dinorben, an ancient manor-house, from which is the title of Lord
-Dinorben, whose residence, Kinmel Park, is a little beyond, and close to
-the village. About six years since the mansion was destroyed by fire;
-but has now been rebuilt in a style of princely elegance, and has once
-more become the home of that hospitality for which the respected
-proprietor is famous. The park is finely wooded and well stocked with
-deer. The scenery from the house is rich, varied, and beautiful; the
-gardens and grounds are extensive, and tastefully laid out. His royal
-highness, the Duke of Sussex, for several years before his death,
-annually spent some weeks at Kinmel in the shooting season.
-
-The church at St. George is a neat structure, and has recently been
-restored by Lord Dinorben, the patron. In the church-yard is a costly
-stone mausoleum, in the Gothic style, erected over the remains of Lady
-Dinorben, a lady beloved for her virtues, and eminent for her charities.
-The architect was Mr. Jones, of Chester: the design and workmanship are
-chaste and elegant.
-
-Not far from Kinmel, towards St. Asaph, is Bodelwyddan, the modern
-elegant mansion of Sir John Hay Williams, Bart., one of the most lovely
-spots in Wales; and in the plain below is Pengwern, the hospitable seat
-of Lord Mostyn.
-
-
-
-ABERYSTWYTH,
-(_Cardiganshire_.)
-
-Aberdovey 11
-Devil’s Bridge 12
-Llanidloes 30
-London, by Ross 217
-Machynlleth 18
-
-[It may be necessary to apprise the reader, that though this work is
-professedly a description of North Wales ONLY, it has been thought
-advisable to deviate from the letter of its title, so far as to include
-within its pages the above distinguished town, and that great and
-attractive curiosity, the Devil’s Bridge; both of which, situated in
-Cardiganshire, the North Wales tourist usually visits, the town being
-only 18 miles beyond Machynlleth, and the cataract the same distance from
-Llanidloes.]
-
-Aberystwyth has long been esteemed a fashionable watering place; the
-gently sloping beach, the clearness of the water, and the salubriousness
-of the air, have all conspired to render it an inviting spot for
-sea-bathing; and within the last few years, the efforts of art have been
-sedulously employed in seconding the works of nature, by furnishing to
-its visitants excellent roads, superior accommodations, and suitable
-buildings for fashionable amusements. Pleasant walks have also been
-formed in the environs. The town, which owes its origin to the erection
-of the castle, is described by Leland as having been encompassed by
-walls, (the last remains of which were removed some years since,) and as
-being in his time a better market than Cardigan; and Camden, who ascribes
-the building of its walls to Gilbert de Clare, earl of Strongbow, states,
-that it was then the most populous town in the county. Since that time
-it has materially increased, both in extent and importance, and may be
-still regarded as the most flourishing place in this part of South Wales,
-its population in 1841 being returned at 4916. It is pleasantly situated
-at the lower extremity of the valley of Rheidiol, amid lofty hills, and
-on a bold eminence overlooking the bay of Cardigan, by which it is
-bounded on one side, while on the other it is environed by the Rheidiol,
-over which is a stone bridge of five arches, forming an entrance to it
-from the south.
-
-The houses are in general well built, and of respectable appearance,
-several of them being large and handsome, especially such as are of
-modern erection, which are entirely of stone. The streets are disposed
-with considerable regularity, and well paved and macadamised. The
-inhabitants are supplied with water from the river Rheidiol, which is
-brought into the town on carriages in the form of small carts, drawn by
-one horse, each holding two barrels, and sold at a low rate. About the
-commencement of the last century, it began to rise into notice as a
-bathing-place, and from a series of progressive improvements, is now one
-of the most frequented places of fashionable resort on this part of the
-coast.
-
-The beach affords a pleasant and interesting walk; and the shore,
-consisting of lofty and precipitous rocks of dark-coloured slate, is worn
-by the action of the waves into caverns of romantic and picturesque
-appearance. The beach is composed of fine pebbles, among which are found
-many valuable stones; the water in consequence is always peculiarly
-clear, and uncontaminated with any admixtures. In sandy situations, the
-contrary is frequently the case. The fine stones are picked up with
-great avidity by the numerous visitors residing here in the summer
-months, and afford ample employment to several lapidaries in the town.
-Hot sea-water, vapour, and medicated baths are provided with every
-requisite accommodation; several bathing machines are in attendance, and
-from the convenient sloping of the beach, a facility of bathing is
-afforded at almost any state of the tide, within a very short distance of
-the shore. For the reception of the increasing number of visitors, many
-additional lodging-houses have been built, of which the Marine Terrace, a
-handsome range of modern buildings suitable for private families, is
-situated on the margin of the bay, commanding a fine marine view. The
-Belle Vue is a spacious and commodious hotel; in front of which is a fine
-promenade. On the south-west of the Marine Terrace, is a gateway leading
-to a spacious castellated mansion, called the Castle-house, commanding an
-extensive view across the bay: it was originally built as a private
-mansion by the late Sir Uvedale Price, Bart. of Foxley hall,
-Herefordshire, and consists of three octagonal towers, connected by
-ranges of apartments, and having a light and elegant balcony on the side
-towards the sea. Beyond this, on one side is the Castle Hill, crowned
-with the venerable ruins of an ancient fortress, and forming another
-favourite promenade, affording from different points various extensive,
-romantic, and interesting views of the sea, the neighbouring hills, and
-the surrounding country.
-
-On the other side of the Castle Hill, separated only by the churchyard,
-are the new public rooms, handsomely built in the Grecian style of
-architecture, on ground given by W. E. Powell, Esq., of Nant Eös, from a
-design by Mr. Repton, at an expense of £2000, raised by subscription in
-shares of £10 each, and opened to the public in 1820. The suite consists
-of a very handsome assembly and promenade room, a card-room and a
-billiard-room. There is a good library in the new market-place; a new
-theatre has been built on the north parade, and was opened for the first
-time in the summer of 1833. The church, dedicated to St. Michael, was
-built by subscription in the year 1787: it is a plain structure, situated
-within the precincts of the castle, and separated from the walks along
-the ruins of that edifice by a stone wall erected at the expense of the
-inhabitants. A gallery was erected in the church at its western end in
-the year 1790, at an expense of £104 14s., which was defrayed by Mrs.
-Margaret Pryce. The service is performed in the morning and evening in
-the English language, and in the afternoon in Welsh; there is likewise
-service on the evenings of Wednesday in the English, and on the Thursday
-in the Welsh language.
-
-The augmented population of this place, and the increasing number of
-visitors during the season, having rendered the erection of another place
-of worship necessary, a church or chapel has been recently built upon a
-large scale by subscription, after a plan by Mr. Haycock, of Shrewsbury,
-in the modern Gothic style, at an expense of £3600, including a grant of
-£1000 from the parliamentary commissioners, and £400 from the society for
-the enlargement of churches and chapels: it was consecrated in September,
-1833. The parish church is situated at Llanbadarn, at about a mile
-distant from the town. There is a peculiarity regarding the grave-stones
-at this place: they are generally fixed in a stack of bricks built up for
-the purpose, and white-washed, the tablet appearing in front. The
-surface of the grave is usually paved with a kind of small marble stones,
-which are found in abundance on the beach. There are also several places
-of worship for dissenters. Aberystwyth likewise possesses the advantage
-of a chalybeate spring, situate at a very short distance east of the
-town. This spring was discovered by a kind of accident in 1779. It is
-highly spoken of, as containing valuable medicinal properties, and much
-resembling the Tunbridge waters; but it is always advisable that a
-physician should be consulted as to the season and extent of its use. To
-complete the circle of attractions which this interesting place presents,
-the annual races are here rising into repute; these usually take place in
-August, in a field near Gogerddan, about three miles from the town.
-Archery and cricket clubs have also been established, and are upheld with
-great spirit; and here the lovers of angling may be gratified with their
-favourite diversion. The Ystwyth and the Rheidiol are in the immediate
-vicinity; the autumnal fishing for salmon and sewin is excellent; and
-within a day’s excursion, a variety of lake-fishing will afford capital
-sport.
-
-Aberystwyth contains many interesting relics of antiquity, and was
-evidently in the “olden time,” a place of some renown, as well as a scene
-of some of the unhappy troubles which darkened the reign of Charles the
-First.
-
-In queen Elizabeth’s reign a company of Germans reaped a large fortune in
-working the silver mines in the vicinity of this town. Sir Hugh
-Myddleton, after them, was equally successful, and accumulated £2000 a
-month out of one silver mine at Bwlch yr Eskir, which enabled him (in
-1614) to bring the new river to London. He, again, was succeeded by Mr.
-Bushell, a servant of Sir Francis Bacon, who also gained such immense
-profits, that he made Charles the First a present of a regiment of horse,
-and clothed his whole army; he also furnished the king with a loan of
-£40,000, which was considered as a gift to supply his necessities; and
-when that unfortunate monarch was pressed, his devoted subject raised a
-regiment among his miners at his own charge.
-
-On Pen Dinas, a very high and steep hill, near the bridge over the
-Rheidiol, is a large entrenchment, still in a good state of preservation,
-and where, Caradoc informs us, Rhŷs ap Gruffydd, in 1113, encamped his
-forces, which, by a manœuvre of the English, were enticed from the hill
-over the bridge, to besiege Aberystwyth castle, where they were
-surrounded and cut off almost to a man. The tradition of the town
-attributes this entrenchment to the forces employed by Cromwell to
-besiege the castle. Opposite this, on a hill at the extremity of the
-town, are two other entrenchments, in a bad state of preservation and
-destitute of the tumuli or barrows, often found contiguous to such
-vestiges in Wales.
-
-Aberystwyth is a place of considerable trade; but the harbour, being a
-bar harbour, is of uncertain and often dangerous navigation, and
-frequently choked up, until the land freshes come down, after heavy falls
-of rain, and force a passage. The trustees, acting under the harbour act
-passed in 1780, being empowered to raise the sum of £4000 for its
-improvement, upon mortgage of the dues, and seeing the necessity of doing
-something more effectually than the works they were occasionally enabled
-to erect by the expenditure of the annual revenues, which were constantly
-being swept away by the sea, determined upon employing that eminent
-engineer and hydrographer, the late Mr. Nimmo, to survey the harbour, and
-to give his report thereon. The report having been published, by which
-it appeared that a sum of £10,000 was necessary to carry his suggestions
-into effect; a committee was formed, who issued a prospectus, soliciting
-subscriptions from those disposed to aid them in the accomplishment of so
-desirable an object, and the following munificent donations were
-immediately made: the Duke of Newcastle, £1000; the Earl of Lisburne,
-£500; Colonel Powell, M.P. £500; Pryce Pryce, Esq. M.P. £500. The works
-have since been completed.
-
-The walks and drives in the vicinity are numerous and engaging; and from
-the number of eminences by which the town is environed on the land side,
-views the most varied and interesting present themselves to the lover of
-the picturesque. From the summit of Pen Dinas, he at once beholds three
-beautiful valleys, with the rivers Ystwyth and Rheidiol winding their
-devious course on either side beneath his feet. On turning round, he is
-gratified with a magnificent view of the expansive bay of Cardigan, with
-its bold coast stretching out on either hand to the extremity of
-Cardiganshire on the southern side, and that of Caernarvon on the
-northern; the latter embracing within its range the rocky ridge of Cader
-Idris and the lofty peaks of Snowdon. The prospect from the summit of
-Craig-lâs is equally beautiful and diversified. The new line of road to
-Hereford and Shrewsbury, completed at an expense of £4000, along the
-opposite bank of the Rheidiol, to the Devil’s Bridge road, and nearly
-parallel with it, passes through some fine scenery, and the course of the
-river from the excellent new inn at Ponterwyd is wild and terrific,
-particularly about the spot called the Parson’s Bridge, half a mile
-therefrom.
-
-The hotels and inns at Aberystwyth afford every comfort for the
-entertainment of visitors, and there is every facility of coach
-travelling to various parts of the country.
-
-
-THE DEVIL’S BRIDGE,
-(_Cardiganshire_.)
-
-Aberystwyth 12
-Havod 4
-Llanidloes 19
-
-Pont-y-Mynach, or Pont-ar-Fynach, vulgarly the Devil’s Bridge, near the
-Havod Arms inn, is a single arch, about 30 feet in the chord, thrown over
-another arch of less than 20 feet, which spans a dark and tremendous
-chasm. The under arch is said to have been thrown across by the monks of
-Ystrad Florida Abbey, about the year 1087; but the country people,
-thinking so bold an effort above the reach of those ghostly fathers,
-ascribed it to his Satanic Majesty. The present bridge was built in
-1753, at the expense of the county, over the original, which was left
-standing; and the railings were put up in 1814, by Mr. Johnes, of Havod.
-It is a most romantic and extraordinary structure.
-
-The scenery in this neighbourhood is inexpressibly grand and sublime—what
-Byron would call, “a blending of all beauties;” a combination of all
-those lovely charms and impressive wonders, which Nature has scattered
-with such exuberant prodigality throughout the mountains and valleys of
-Wales.
-
-The Havod Arms inn stands on a most interesting site in this locality,
-and affords excellent accommodation to tourists.
-
-Few persons, whether from North or South Wales, who visit the falls of
-Pont-y-Mynach, but will be desirous of seeing the celebrated seat of the
-late Mr. Johnes, at
-
-
-Havod,
-
-
-Which is about four miles distant. The mansion was built, and the estate
-laid out in its present paradisaical state of loveliness, by the late Mr.
-Johnes, of whom it has been truly said, he made the barren wilderness
-around him to smile, and converted the worthless heath into waving woods,
-luxuriant corn fields, and pastures. From October, 1795, to April, 1801,
-Mr. Johnes planted more than 2,065,000 trees, besides a great number of
-acres that he sowed with acorns. Since this period the plantations have
-been extended on the same scale with equal spirit; from one to two
-hundred thousand trees being planted every year.
-
-The mansion is built of Portland stone, in a somewhat novel mode of
-architecture, from designs by Mr. Baldwyn of Bath; it combines the
-distinguishing features of the Moorish and Gothic styles, with turrets
-and painted windows. It is situated near the banks of the river Ystwyth,
-and beautifully environed by lofty hills, clothed with oak. The interior
-of the house corresponds in elegance with the exterior.
-
-A correct idea of the enchanting beauties of the scenery has been left on
-record by the elegant pen of Mr. Cumberland:—“Havod is a place in itself
-so pre-eminently beautiful, that it highly merits a particular
-description. It stands surrounded with so many noble scenes, diversified
-with elegance as well as with grandeur; the country on the approach to it
-is so very wild and uncommon, and the place itself is now so embellished
-by art, that it will be difficult, I believe, to point out a spot that
-can be put in competition with it, considered either as the object of the
-painter’s eye, the poet’s mind, or as a desirable residence for those
-who, admirers of the beautiful wildness of nature, love also to inhale
-the pure air of aspiring mountains, and enjoy that _santo pacé_, as the
-Italians expressively term it, which arises from solitudes made social by
-a family circle. From the portico it commands a woody, narrow, winding
-vale; the undulating form of whose ascending shaggy sides are richly
-clothed with various foliage, broken with silver waterfalls, and crowned
-with climbing sheep-walks, reaching to the clouds. Neither are the
-luxuries of life absent; for, on the margin of the Ystwyth, where it
-flows broadest through this delicious vale, we see hothouses and a
-conservatory; beneath the rocks, a bath; amid the recesses of the woods,
-a flower-garden; and within the building, whose decorations, though rich,
-are pure and simple, we find a mass of rare and valuable literature,
-whose pages here seem doubly precious, where meditation finds scope to
-range unmolested.
-
-“In a word, so many are the delights afforded by the scenery of this
-place and its vicinity, to a mind imbued with any taste, that the
-impression on mine was increased after an interval of ten years from the
-first visit, employed chiefly in travelling among the Alps, the
-Appennines, the Sabine hills, and the Tyrolese; along the shores of the
-Adriatic, over the Glaciers of Switzerland, and up the Rhine; where,
-though in search of beauty, I never, I feel, saw any thing so fine—never
-so many pictures concentrated in one spot; so that, warmed by the renewal
-of my acquaintance with them, I am irresistibly urged to attempt a
-description of the hitherto almost virgin-haunts of these obscure
-mountains.
-
-“Wales, and its borders, both North and South, abound, at intervals, with
-fine things: Piercefield has grounds of great magnificence, and wonderful
-picturesque beauty; Downton Castle has a deliciously wooded vale, most
-tastefully managed; Llangollen is brilliant; the banks of the Conway
-savagely grand; Barmouth romantically rural; the great Pistyll-y-Rhaiadr
-is horribly wild; Rhaiadr-y-Wennol gay, and gloriously irregular; each of
-which merits a studied description. But at Havod and its neighbourhood,
-I find the effects of all in one circle; united with this peculiarity,
-the deep dingles, and mighty woody slopes, which, from a different
-source, conduct the Rheidiol’s never-failing waters from Plinlimmon, and
-the Mynach, are of an unique character, as mountainous forests,
-accompanying gigantic size with graceful forms; and taken altogether, I
-see ‘the sweetest interchange of hill and valley, rivers, woods and
-plains, and falls, with forests crowned, rocks, dens, and caves,’
-insomuch that it requires little enthusiasm there to feel forcibly with
-Milton—
-
- ‘All things that be send up from earth’s great altar
- Silent praise.’
-
-“There are four fine walks from the house, chiefly through ways
-artificially made by the proprietor; all dry, kept clean, and composed of
-materials found on the spot; which is chiefly a coarse stone, of a
-greyish cast, friable in many places, and like slate, but oftener
-consisting of immense masses that cost the miner, in making some parts of
-these walks, excessive labour; for there are places where it was
-necessary to perforate the rock many yards, in order to pass a promontory
-that, jutting across the way, denied further access; and to go round
-which you must have taken a great tour, and made a fatiguing descent. As
-it is, the walks are so conducted that few are steep; the transitions
-easy, the returns commodious, and the branches distinct. Neither are
-there too many; for much is left for future projectors; and if a man be
-stout enough to range the underwoods, and fastidious enough to reject all
-trodden paths, he may, almost every where, stroll from the studied line,
-till he be glad to regain the friendly conduct of the well-known way.
-Yet one must be nice, not to be content at first to visit the best points
-of view by the general routine; for all that is here done has been to
-remove obstructions, reduce the materials, and conceal the art; and we
-are no where presented with attempts to force the untamed streams, or
-indeed to invent any thing, where nature, the great mistress, has left
-all art behind.”
-
-To this lively delineation, we shall only add one sentence of the Rev.
-Mr. Warner, who, after visiting this spot, remarks:—“The whole together
-forms a scene so striking, that while wandering through its ever-changing
-beauties, we felt no inclination to tax Mr. Cumberland with enthusiasm
-when he declared that in ten years’ travelling through the Alps, the
-Appennines, the Sabine hills, and the Tyrolese; the shores of the
-Adriatic; the Glaciers of Switzerland; and the banks of the Rhine; he
-never saw any thing so fine—never so many pictures concentrated in one
-spot.”
-
-The splendid library at Havod was adorned with a most valuable collection
-of books and manuscripts, which Mr. Johnes had, at an immense expense,
-brought together, many of which were unique and of the highest historical
-importance, including those of Sir John Sebright’s collection, in the
-Welsh language, together with some splendidly illuminated manuscripts of
-Froissart. These, with several thousand volumes, comprising a complete
-Don Quixote’s library, with other works of equal rarity, which cannot be
-replaced, were unfortunately consumed by a fire which destroyed the
-mansion on March 13, 1807. The origin of this calamity has never been
-satisfactorily ascertained, neither is it possible to estimate, with any
-approach to accuracy, the extent of the loss: it has been stated at
-£70,000. However, Mr. Johnes determined to restore his mansion in the
-best manner he could, and another collection of books was soon made,
-founded by the Pesaro library, which Mr. Johnes had purchased in Italy,
-and was on its way to Havod at the time when the fire occurred.
-
-This highly esteemed, accomplished, and public-spirited gentleman
-survived the destructive visitation about nine years, during which he was
-engaged in promoting improvements on his estate. He died at Exeter, and
-his mortal remains were interred in the family vault at the new church
-built by himself within the precincts of Havod grounds. His widow
-survived until October, 1833, when she also died at Exeter, and was
-buried in the same tomb with her respected husband and their only
-daughter, who died on the 24th July, 1811, in the 27th year of her age.
-The family becoming extinct upon the death of the widow, the vault, after
-her interment, was completely arched over.
-
-The whole of the magnificent estate of Havod was put up to auction by Mr.
-Robins, in the spring of 1831, and became the property of the Duke of
-Newcastle, together with the timber, the splendid collection of books and
-furniture, and the large cellar of choice wines, for which that nobleman
-is said to have paid about £62,000. The noble duke expended a very large
-sum in enlarging and improving, and became a most munificent benefactor
-to the neighbourhood. In 1843, however, it was again submitted to the
-hammer of Mr. Robins, but no sale was effected. The estate has since
-been bought of His Grace by H. Bold Houghton, Esq. The purchase-money is
-said to have been £150,000.
-
-
-
-AMLWCH.
-(_Anglesea_.)
-
-Beaumaris 16
-Holyhead 20
-Llanerch-y-medd 6
-Menai Bridge 18
-
-This is a market town on the coast, chiefly supported by the copper
-mines, with which the surrounding district abounds. About the year 1766,
-Amlwch had not more than half-a-dozen houses in the whole parish, but now
-it contains a population exceeding 6000. It has a capacious harbour, cut
-out of the solid rock or slate, executed at the expense of the mining
-companies, capable of admitting thirty vessels of 200 tons burthen, where
-originally there was only a cleft or opening, too small to receive a
-single vessel. There are large smelting works for copper erected near
-the harbour, the property of the mining companies.
-
-In conjunction with Beaumaris, Holyhead, and Llangefni, this town returns
-one member to parliament. The church, consecrated in 1801, is an elegant
-building, erected by the Parys mine company, at an expense of £4000. The
-situation of Amlwch is most salubrious.
-
-The immense treasures contained in the Parys mountain, which is in the
-immediate vicinity of Amlwch, and to which the town owes its prosperity,
-were unknown and lay neglected until about the year 1765, when one
-Frazer, a Scotch miner, came in search of ores, and gave encouragement to
-other adventurers. Though he discovered copper ore by sinking shafts in
-the mountain, he was discouraged from proceeding by the influx of water.
-Sir N. Bailey, grandfather of the Marquis of Anglesea, who had leased the
-lead mines at Penrhyn-dû, in Caernarvonshire, to the Macclesfield
-company, bound them to make a spirited effort to work the Parys mine.
-This they did, but with so little success, that after some time they sent
-positive orders to the agent to discontinue his operations, and discharge
-the miners. The agent, however, fortunately disobeyed the injunction;
-and as a last attempt, collected all his mining force to one spot, where
-he sunk a shaft, and within seven feet of the surface discovered a body
-of ore which was worked with great success for many years. This happened
-on the 2d of March, 1768, whence St. Chad has ever since been a venerated
-patron of the Anglesea miners.
-
-In the Parys mountain are two mines: of these, that upon the eastern side
-is called the Mona mine, the entire property of the Marquis of Anglesea,
-who works it, and also the smelting house at Amlwch. The Parys mine is
-the joint property of the Marquis of Anglesea and Lord Dinorben, and is
-now worked by a company. The stranger, in order to see the mines to
-advantage, should first furnish himself with a guide, to avoid danger,
-and follow the steps of Mr. Bingley, who thus describes his efforts to
-gratify his curiosity:—“Having ascended to the top, I found myself
-standing on the verge of a vast and tremendous chasm. I stept on one of
-the stages suspended over the edge of the steep, and the prospect was
-dreadful. The number of caverns at different heights along the sides;
-the broken and irregular masses of rock which everywhere presented
-themselves; the multitudes of men at work in different parts, and
-apparently in the most perilous situations; the motions of the whimsies,
-and the raising and lowering of the buckets, to draw out the ore and
-rubbish; the noise of picking the ore from the rock, and of hammering the
-wadding when it was about to be blasted; with, at intervals, the roaring
-of the blasts in different parts of the mine—altogether excited the most
-sublime ideas, intermixed, however, with sensations of terror.
-
-“I left this situation, and followed the road that leads into the mine;
-and the moment I entered my astonishment was again excited. The shagged
-arches and overhanging rocks, which seemed to threaten annihilation to
-any one daring enough to approach them, fixed me almost motionless to the
-spot. The roofs of the work, having in many places fallen in, have left
-some of the rudest scenes that the imagination can paint; these, with the
-sulphureous fumes from the kilns in which the ore is roasted, gave it to
-me a perfect counterpart to Virgil’s entrance into Tartarus. To look up
-from hence and observe the people on the stages, a hundred and fifty feet
-above one’s head; to see the immense number of ropes and buckets, most of
-them in motion; and to reflect that a single stone, casually thrown from
-above, or falling from a bucket, might in a moment destroy a
-fellow-creature—a man must have a strong mind not to feel impressed with
-most unpleasant sensations.”
-
-The mines are still prolific in their production of copper ore, and
-afford a great revenue to their proprietors.—There are also alum works,
-and a green vitriol manufactory in the neighbourhood of these mines. The
-principal inns at Amlwch are Ty Mawr and the Castle. About four miles
-distant is Llysdulas, the hospitable seat of Col. Hughes, brother to Lord
-Dinorben.
-
-
-
-BALA,
-(_Merionethshire_.)
-
-Corwen 12
-Dinas Mowddwy 18
-Dolgellau 17
-Ffestiniog 19
-London 207
-Mawr Twrog 22
-
-Bala, or the Outlet of the Lake, is a small neat town consisting of one
-long street, with two or three others crossing at right angles, and a
-population of about 2500. There are two good inns here, the White Lion
-and the Bull’s Head, the former being an excellent posting house. This
-town is noted for its trade in woollen stockings, woollen comfortables,
-and Welsh wigs. Mr. Pennant remarks, that in his time, on a Saturday,
-their market-day, from two to five hundred pounds worth of these goods
-were disposed of; but this staple appears to have greatly decreased since
-that period. Still, however, knitting is here an almost universal
-employment; and whether you walk in the town, or the country around, you
-will scarcely ever meet a female unemployed, even while they carry water,
-or other burdens upon their heads.
-
-Near the south-east end of the town is a high artificial mount, called
-Tommen-y-Bala, supposed to be of Roman construction: in the summer time
-it is usually covered, in a picturesque manner, with knitters of all
-ages. From the summit there is it fine view of Llyn Tegid and the
-adjacent mountains, which present a particularly grand and majestic
-aspect in this vicinity, successfully rivalling the glories of Snowdonia.
-The quarter sessions for the county are held here; and also the spring
-assizes. The town-hall is a plain building, standing in the principal
-street. A chapel-of-ease was erected in 1811 by subscription: it is a
-plain structure, with a low tower, surmounted by a spire. The parish
-church is situate at Llanycil, about a mile from the town: the service is
-performed there in the morning, and at Bala in the afternoon. The Rev.
-Thomas Charles, Calvinistic Methodist, the founder of the Bible Society,
-resided here. He was a great promoter of education and Sunday schools
-amongst his countrymen; and compiled a Welsh biblical dictionary in four
-volumes.
-
-
-Bala Lake,
-
-
-Llyn Tegid, or Pimblemere, (for this pool has these various names) is
-within a quarter of a mile south of the town, and is a fine expanse of
-water, with well-cultivated, sloping boundaries, clothed in many parts
-with verdant woods.
-
-Bala and it fine lake (says Mr. Roscoe in his “Wanderings through North
-Wales,”) have attractions peculiar to themselves. To appreciate them as
-they deserve, the traveller should first ascend the craggy summit of the
-neighbouring mountain, and gaze upon the rude glens beyond, through which
-the boisterous Twrch rushes in a succession of resounding falls. It is
-by contrasting the wilder and fiercer tracts of the landscape, with its
-milder features round the quiet hamlet and lake, that we add fresh zest
-to the interchange of feelings ever open to the Cambrian traveller. Bala
-lake is the most extensive in Wales, being nearly four miles in length,
-and three quarters of one in breadth, its banks consequently embracing a
-circuit of about nine miles. Its greatest depth is forty feet; and the
-water is said to be so pure, that the nicest chemical tests can detect
-scarcely any foreign admixture.
-
-Be this as it may, the lake has abundance of pike, perch, trout, eels,
-and roach, with shoals of a fish called gwyniad, so named from the
-extreme whiteness of its scales. It is a gregarious fish, often found in
-the Alpine lakes, more especially those of Switzerland, and dies soon
-after it is taken. Its weight rarely exceeds four pounds, and its
-flavour is by many persons considered rather insipid; a circumstance that
-by no means recommends the gallantry of the late Lord Lyttelton, when he
-assures his friends that it is so exquisitely delicate as to more than
-rival in flavour the lips of the fair maids of Bala themselves. But,
-being so very good, and like the ladies of Bala, perhaps, sensible of
-their attractions, these fish have the shrewdness to keep out of harm’s
-way, as we are told, by remaining at the bottom of the water, where they
-feed on small shells and aquatic plants, from which scarcely any bait
-will induce them to emerge; they are, therefore, principally taken by
-nets. The angler may always be certain that, while a cloud rests on
-Aran, he may save himself the trouble of fishing in the lake. In former
-times the fishery is stated to have formed part of the possessions
-attached to Basingwerk Abbey, but has since fallen into the hands of Sir
-Watkin Williams Wynn, who has pitched his tent, in the shape of a neat
-sporting-box, quite according to the Irish rule, ‘convanient to the
-spot.’
-
-Though now so calm and beautiful,—reflecting all the quiet and clearness
-of the heavens upon its breast, as the swallow skimmed its glassy
-surface, and the wild-fowl sought their home in its little bays and
-creeks,—the aspect of Bala Lake, when the storm is up, and ‘the winter
-wild’ puts on his terrors, can assume a very different kind of beauty.
-To see it when the autumnal winds ruffle its broad expanse with billows,
-or the clouds discharge their contents as fiercely as the torrent from
-the hills,—when the drifting rack and snow-storm mingle the last leaves
-of the year with the scattered beauty of the meads and gardens, the
-observer can no longer recognise the least resemblance in the
-characteristics of the two landscapes, the Bala of the opposite seasons.
-
-Upon the north-east side, the water sometimes rises many feet above its
-usual level. When the winds and the rains, as I was informed, ‘meet and
-combine the whole of their forces,’ it is a grand sight to see the lake
-overshoot its banks, and rush beyond into the valley of old Edeirnion.
-Once, in the month of June, 1781, a part of the vicinity is believed to
-have been inundated by one of those singular occurrences, the bursting of
-an overcharged cloud, called a water-spout, which, however frequently
-beheld at sea, seldom visits the land. It was attended by terrific
-lightning and continuous rain, which caused the Twrch—fed by torrents
-from the Bwlch-y-Groes hills—to overflow and sweep every thing before it.
-The spoils of fields and villages, and even human life, marked the
-progress of the flood; and as far as Corwen the rising of the rivers
-suddenly burst on the ear of the affrighted people. The scene round Bala
-is recorded by the old inhabitants as heart-rending and terrific. The
-deep and dismal chasm, spanned by the one-arched bridge through which the
-stream of the llyn pours its flood down the wildest rocky falls,
-exhibited a magnificent sight, swelled by the mountain rains into one
-immense volume of foaming cataract, which again bursting from its black
-and caverned bed through the wooded glens beyond, rolled its unusual mass
-of burdened torrents to join the waters of the Twrch. Along the course
-of the Dee, huge branches, and some of the large forest-trees themselves,
-which threw a gloomier shadow over the stormy scene, were uprooted by the
-maddening storm and launched into the yawning flood. The lake rose with
-the impulse of the storm, till it assumed the aspect of a wild and
-restless sea, keeping stern music with the crashing of the neighbouring
-woods and the whistling of the blast, while, drowning the roar of the
-torrent, the thunder, ever and anon, startled the ear, and occasional
-flashes illuminating the sky exhibited for a moment the lurid and
-dreadful scene to view.
-
-Bala is an excellent station for anglers, who are sure of good sport, and
-a delightful ramble on the banks of the lake.
-
-
-The River Dee.
-
-
-The name of the wizard stream is thought to have been derived from the
-Welsh word Dwfr-Dwy, that is, the waters of the two rivers. Some
-centuries ago the Dee was held in superstitious veneration by the
-inhabitants of the country, from what were then believed the miraculous
-overflowing of its banks at times when there had been no preceding heavy
-rains: and from its being believed to have foretold some remarkable
-events by changing its channel. History informs us, that when the
-Britons, drawn up in battle-array on its banks, had been prepared to
-engage with their Saxon foes, it was their custom first to kiss the
-earth, and then for every soldier to drink a small quantity of the water.
-The name is certainly not derived, as many have supposed, from _dû_,
-black; for, except when tinged by the torrents from the mountain
-morasses, its waters are perfectly bright and transparent. In Spenser’s
-description of Caer Gai, the dwelling of old Timon, foster-father of
-Arthur, the colour of the Dee is considered very different from black:
-
- “Lowe in a valley green.
- Under the foot of Rawran mossie o’er,
- From whence the river Dee, as _silver clene_.
- His tempting billows roll with gentle roar.”
-
-That lover of the marvellous, Giraldus Cambrensis, informs as very
-gravely, that the river Dee runs through Bala lake, and is discharged at
-the bridge near the town without their waters becoming mixed. He,
-doubtless, means to say, that the river might be traced by its appearance
-from one end of the lake to the other. Giraldus has the reputation of
-being very credulous.
-
-The Dee, descending from Bala lake, passes under a small bridge, at the
-opposite end of which it enters, and from which the channel of the river
-is formed. It then winds along the beautiful vale of Corwen, about four
-miles below which it washes the eastern side of Denbighshire, and passing
-the bridge at Llangollen, it very soon forms the boundary division
-between England and Wales. Its chief tributaries are the Alwen, which
-has its rise in one of the lakes on the western part of the county; the
-Ceiriog, which descends from the slate mountains near Chirk; the
-Clywedog, which it receives below Bangor Is-y-coed; and the Alun, which
-rises in the mountains about Llandegla. It flows northward to Chester,
-Flintshire, and the Irish sea.
-
-Close to Bala, on the Corwen road, is Rhiwlas, the seat of R. W. Price,
-Esq.: the house is situated on an eminence, in the midst of extensive
-grounds, and forms an interesting object, being profusely decorated with
-an evergreen, which likewise adorns the lodge-gates. A considerable
-stream, called the Tryweryn, which runs through the domain, adds much to
-the general beauty of this pretty retreat.
-
-
-
-BANGOR.
-(_Caernarvonshire_.)
-
-Abergele 27
-Beaumaris, by the bridge 6½
-Caernarvon 9
-Capel Curig 14½
-Conway 14½
-Holyhead 24
-London, by Chester 251
-— by Shrewsbury 237
-Plas Newydd 5
-Penmaen Mawr 8½
-
-Bangor, (from ban côr, the high and beautiful choir,) is a small but
-neatly built town, and the most ancient see in the Principality. Its
-present population, 7232. It has been much improved within the last few
-years, especially since the erection of the Menai Bridge, which has
-attracted numerous visitors anxious to see one of the finest works of
-human skill, though still inconsiderable in comparison with its
-importance in ancient times, when it was denominated Bangor Vawr, or the
-Great Bangor, probably to distinguish it from Bangor Is-y-coed in
-Flintshire. The town is delightfully situated in a sheltered vale,
-between two high ridges of slate rock, at the mouth of the Menai Straits,
-of which it commands a beautiful prospect.
-
-Bangor and its environs have the advantage of an almost inexhaustible
-diversity of walks, rides, and sea excursions; and in addition to these
-highly interesting facilities, several new roads and path-ways have
-recently been completed and generously thrown open to the public by the
-spirited proprietors of the Pen’r-allt estate, who disposed of that
-valuable property to various persons, for the erection of villas,
-ornamental marine residences, lodging houses, and public baths.
-
-Garth-point, the eastern extremity of the Pen’r-allt property, a short
-distance from the city, where a ferry crosses to the Anglesea shore, is
-unrivalled for the sublimity, picturesque beauty, and variety of its
-surrounding objects, consisting of an immense expanse of seas, mountains,
-lowlands, and plantations. To the left, on the Anglesea coast, are seen
-an extensive sloping wood and a pretty marine cottage, forming part of
-the domain of Baron Hill, the splendid mansion of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley,
-Bart. M.P.; the town, castle, church, and bay of Beaumaris; and about
-five miles further, to the north-east, Puffin or Priestholm Island, with
-its tower and semaphore. To the right, on the Caernarvonshire coast, the
-majestic promontory of Great Orme’s Head (abounding with copper ore)
-stands boldly forward, apparently isolated, its rugged front protruding
-like a rocky fortress into the sea, to guard the entrance to the Menai
-Straits; Little Orme’s Head, Conway Bay, Penmaen Bâch, Pen-dyffryn, the
-residence of Sir Chas. Smith; Penmaen Mawr, Bryn-y-neuadd, the seat of
-John Wynne, Esq.; Prince Llywelyn’s Tower, the Pass, village and church
-of Aber, the property of Sir Richard Bulkeley. To the south-east of
-which appear, in pre-eminent height and grandeur, the cloud-capt Carnedd
-Llywelyn and Carnedd Dafydd, in “Snowdon’s Alpine range;” Penrhyn Castle,
-the superb mansion of the Hon. Col. Douglas Pennant, M.P.; Port Penrhyn
-with its numerous shipping; the spacious Penrhyn Arms Inn and pleasure
-grounds; Hirael quay and shore; forming altogether, in one expansive
-view, a glorious panorama of at least thirty miles in circuit.
-
-At the egress of the river Cegid into the Menai, a commodious harbour has
-been formed, called Port Penrhyn, which is capable of admitting and
-securing vessels of three hundred tons burden. The quay is upwards of
-three hundred yards long, and an immense tonnage of slates brought by
-railway from the quarries about six miles distant, is thence shipped to
-all parts of the world. A neat stone bridge over the river Cegid
-connects the quay with the city. The market at Bangor is held on Friday.
-
-There are several excellent inns, where the traveller will find the best
-accommodations, as well as post-chaises and cars, with “good horses and
-careful drivers.” The Penrhyn Arms Hotel, a short distance from the
-town, is really a princely establishment, on an extensive and admirable
-scale of management. The Castle, Liverpool Arms, and Royal Oak inns,
-have also a good reputation.
-
-The following extract from Dr. Johnson’s diary, when he visited this city
-in 1774, in company with Mr. and Mrs. Thrale, will exhibit the progress
-of improvement at Bangor in a very advantageous point of light:—“At
-evening (says he) the moon shone eminently bright, and our thoughts of
-danger (on passing Penmaen Mawr) being now past, the rest of our journey
-was very pleasant. At an hour somewhat late, we came to Bangor, where we
-found _a very mean inn_, _and had some difficulty of obtaining a
-lodging_. _I lay in a room where the other bed had two men_.” What a
-contrast to the splendid accommodation now obtainable by tourists at this
-popular watering-place! Within the last twenty years, the population has
-been quadrupled, almost all the town built or rebuilt, all the old roads
-altered or widened, and new ones formed in the direction of London and
-Holyhead.
-
-The facilities for travelling are abundant:—In summer there are
-steam-packets everyday to and from Liverpool; and in winter, two or three
-every week. The London mail passes through Bangor each way every day,
-also the Chester and Liverpool mail; and besides these, there are daily
-coaches to London, Chester, Liverpool, Caernarvon, Pwllheli, and
-Barmouth.
-
-Three banks have been recently established at Bangor, one of which is a
-branch of the Chester bank of Messrs. Williams and Co., at the Cottage,
-the bottom of Waterloo-street; another, a branch of the North and South
-Wales bank, in High-street, nearly opposite the Market-place; and the
-third, a branch of the National Provincial, in the same street. By the
-Reform Act, Bangor was made a contributory borough in returning a member
-of parliament for Caernarvon; W. B. Hughes, Esq. is the present member.
-
-
-The Cathedral
-
-
-stands on a low piece of ground near the centre of the town, and
-externally has but a humble appearance. It was founded about 525, by
-Daniel, son of Dinothus, abbot of Bangor Is-y-coed, in Flintshire, under
-the auspices of Maelgwm Gwynedd, king of Wales, founder of Penmon, patron
-of Taliesin, and the most liberal prince of his time, though much abused
-by Gildas, who calls him Insularum Draco, because he resisted the
-innovations which Pope Gregory wished to introduce into the British
-church by means of Augustine the monk, and which gave rise to the
-denunciatory ode of Taliesin—
-
- “Gwa ’r offeiriaid mud.”
-
-The mother church suffered greatly at different periods during the civil
-commotion. It was destroyed in 1071, but soon afterwards rebuilt; and in
-1212, when King John invaded the country, having passed Conway, he halted
-at Aber, and sent part of his army to burn Bangor. The city was
-destroyed, and Robert of Shrewsbury, then bishop of that see, carried
-prisoner to the English camp. He was afterwards ransomed for two hundred
-hawks. The prelate was, however, suffered to remain here, although
-incapable of performing his duty effectively, on account of his ignorance
-of the language of the people. At his death, in accordance with his own
-request, he was interred in the market-place at Shrewsbury. He was the
-original compiler of the wonderful legend of St. Winifrede, afterwards
-enlarged by Bishop Fleetwood. In the year 1402, the sacred edifice was
-again reduced to ruin by the rage of Owen Glyndwr (who was infuriated by
-his wrongs and sufferings), and lay in ruins ninety years, when the choir
-was restored by Bishop Deane or Deny. The body and tower now existing
-were built by Bishop Skeffington in 1532.
-
-Some considerable improvements were completed in the cathedral in 1827,
-by the outlay of £2000 from the tithes of Llanddinam, in Montgomeryshire,
-appropriated by an act of James the Second, 1685, for the repairs of
-Bangor cathedral, and £2000 collected in different parts of the united
-kingdom, by the praiseworthy and indefatigable exertions of the Rev. J.
-H. Cotton, LL.B., then precentor and senior vicar, but now dean, the
-whole of which has been expended in the most advantageous manner, under
-his superintendence, and will remain a lasting monument of his zeal and
-perseverance. Some years ago, the citizens of Bangor originated a
-subscription to this estimable dignitary, in acknowledgment of the many
-good services he had rendered to the city and neighbourhood. The worthy
-dean, with his characteristic regard for the fabrics as well as the
-doctrines of the church, devoted the sum to the ornamenting the cathedral
-with a splendid painted window,—a lasting memorial of the respect and
-veneration in which he is held, and of his praiseworthy
-disinterestedness.
-
-The bishopric owes the chief of its revenues and immunities to Anian,
-bishop of the diocese in the reign of Edward the First, who, being in
-high favour with that monarch, and having had the honour of christening
-the young prince, born at Caernarvon, afterwards Edward the Second, had,
-as a compensation for the temporalities confiscated in the reign of Henry
-the Third, various manors, ferries, and grants from the revenues of the
-Principality, allotted to the see.
-
-Here was anciently a parish church, built in 975, by king Edgar, situated
-about 400 yards north-east of the cathedral, and called Llanvair Edward
-Vrenin. Bishop Skeffington, in Henry the Eighth’s time, caused it to be
-taken down, and repaired the present church with the materials. Here,
-likewise, near the sea shore, Tudor ab Gronwy, of Penmynydd and Tre’r
-Castell, in Anglesea, founded a house of Black Friars, and was interred
-there in 1311. In an old monody to this individual are the following
-lines:—
-
- For Tudor dead, the tears incessant flow,
- And Bangor suffers in the general woe.
-
-The free school was founded in 1557, by Dr. Jeffrey Glynn, upon the site
-of this building. It has long enjoyed reputation as a training seminary
-for Oxford, Cambridge, and Trinity College, Dublin. The environs are
-well cultivated and picturesque, and are interspersed with handsome
-residences, amongst which is that of the bishop’s palace.
-
-On the summit of a steep rock, opposite Friars’ School, are to be traced
-the remains of an ancient castle, supposed to have been built by Hugh
-Lupus, Earl of Chester, in the reign of Henry the Second. Several pieces
-of scoria have been found on the spot, which leave no doubt that arrows
-have been manufactured there at some very distant period. On the extreme
-height of the opposite hill, at the back of Friars’ School, are the
-remains of a British encampment, on an extensive scale, of more ancient
-date than the preceding. These interesting objects will be found, on
-investigation, well worthy the notice of the antiquary. It is
-conjectured, that the British encampment alluded to, communicated, to the
-southward, with Dinas Dinorwic, near Llandeiniolen, as that renowned
-British station is distinctly seen from this spot; and also with another
-to the east, called Braich-y-Ddinas, situate on the summit of Penmaen
-Mawr.
-
-An elegant Roman Catholic chapel has recently been erected in the suburbs
-of the city, on the Caernarvon road.
-
-Pleasant excursions may be made from Bangor to Conway, Caernarvon,
-Beaumaris, Amlwch, Plâs Newydd, Aber, Port Penrhyn, Priestholm or Puffin
-Island, Penrhyn Castle, the Llandegai slate quarries, and Snowdon. In
-fact, the locality abounds with objects of natural beauty and historical
-interest.
-
-
-Great Suspension Bridge.
-
-
-Within about two miles from Bangor, near the spot where the old ferry
-was, stands that stupendous monument of human skill, the MENAI BRIDGE.
-
-The erection of this bridge was for several years in contemplation before
-it was finally determined upon. In 1810 and 1811, several plans were
-submitted to a committee of the House of Commons, and particularly one in
-the latter year, by Mr. Telford, proposing a bridge of cast iron, the
-expense of which was estimated at £127,000; but the difficulty of fixing
-a proper centring, owing to the rocky bottom of the channel, and the
-depth and rapidity of the tide-way, caused this project to be abandoned.
-In 1818, a new plan was presented by the same engineer, for a bridge on
-the suspension principle. In developing this plan, Mr. Telford remarks,
-“The iron hanging bridge over the Menai to consist of one opening of 560
-feet between the points of suspension; in addition to which there are to
-be seven arches, four on the coast of Anglesea, and three on that of
-Caernarvonshire, each 60 feet in the span, making the total length of the
-bridge 910 feet; the height above the level of high water line to be 100
-feet. The road-way will embrace two carriage ways, each twelve feet in
-breadth, with a foot-path of four feet between them. The whole is to be
-suspended from four lines of strong iron cables, by perpendicular iron
-rods placed five feet apart, and these rods will support the road-way
-framing. The suspending power is calculated at 2016 tons, and the weight
-to be suspended, exclusive of the cables, is 343 tons, leaving a
-disposable power of 1674 tons.
-
-“The four sides of the road-ways will be made of framed iron work, firmly
-bound together for seven feet in height, and there will be a similar work
-for five feet in depth below the cables. The weight of the whole bridge
-between the points of suspension will be 489 tons. The abutments will
-consist of the masonry, comprising the extreme stone-work, the two piers,
-and the seven arches before mentioned: each of the two piers will be 60
-feet by 40½ wide at high water mark, having a foundation of rock. Upon
-the summit of the two main piers, will be erected a frame of cast-iron
-work, of a pyramidal form, for the purpose of raising the cables from
-which the bridge is to be suspended.” The probable cost of erecting this
-structure Mr. Telford estimated at £60,000, or, allowing for any
-unforeseen charges, at most £70,000, about one-fourth of the calculated
-expense of the cast-iron bridge on the old plan.
-
-The following particulars we extract from Dr. Pring’s Narrative of the
-Grand Menai Suspension Bridge, published immediately on its completion.
-“The first stone of this national bridge was laid without any ceremony on
-the 10th August, 1820, by Mr. Provis, resident engineer. On the 26th
-April, 1825, the first chain of this stupendous work was thrown over the
-straits of Menai, in the presence of an immense concourse of people. At
-half-past two o’clock, it then being about half flood tide, the raft
-prepared for the occasion, stationed on the Caernarvonshire side, near
-Treborth mill, which supported the part of the chain intended to be drawn
-over, began to move gradually from its moorings, towed by four boats,
-with the assistance of the tide, to the centre of the river, between the
-two grand piers. When the raft was adjusted, and brought to its ultimate
-situation, it was made fast to several buoys, anchored in the channel for
-that purpose. A part of the chain, pending from the apex of the
-suspending pier on the Caernarvonshire side down nearly to high-water
-mark, was then made fast by a bolt, to the part of the chain laying on
-the raft; which operation was completed in ten minutes.
-
-“The next process was the fastening of the other extremity of the chain
-on the raft to two blocks of immense size and power, for the purpose of
-hoisting it up to its intended station, the apex of the suspension pier
-on the Anglesea side. When the blocks were made secure to the chain
-(comprising 25 tons weight of iron), two capstans, and also, two
-preventive capstans, commenced working, each capstan being propelled by
-thirty-two men. To preserve an equal tenison in the rotatory evolutions
-of the two principal capstans, two fifers played several enlivening
-tunes, to keep the men regular in their steps, for which purpose they had
-been previously trained. At this critical and interesting juncture, the
-attention of every one present seemed rivetted to the novel spectacle:
-the chain rose majestically, and the gratifying sight was
-enthusiastically enjoyed by all present in ‘breathless silence!’ At ten
-minutes before five o’clock, the final bolt was fixed, which completed
-the whole line of chain, and the happy event was hailed by the hearty
-acclamations of the spectators. Not the least accident, delay, or
-failure, occurred in any department during the whole of the operation.
-From the moving of the raft to the uniting of the chain, only two hours
-and twenty-five minutes transpired. Upon the completion of the chain,
-three of the workmen passed along its upper surface, which forms a
-curvature of 590 feet; the versed sine of the arch is 43 feet. The
-sixteenth chain, completing the whole line of suspension, was curried
-over on the 9th of July following.
-
-“The general opening of the bridge took place on Monday, January 30th,
-1826. The royal London and Holyhead mail coach, carrying the London
-mail-bag for Dublin, passed over at one o’clock, A.M. and the first
-carriage that passed was that of Augustus Elliott Fuller, Esq., one of
-the commissioners, drawn by four beautiful greys; the first stage coach
-was the Pilot, a Bangor and Caernarvon day coach; the first London stage
-coach was the Oxonian. These were followed by the carriage of Sir David
-Erskine, Bart., late proprietor of the ferry, drawn by four elegant
-greys, decorated with ribbons, and by several gentlemen’s carriages,
-landaus, gigs, cars, &c. and a long train of horsemen. Numerous flags
-were flying; and cannons, stationed on each side of the bridge, were
-discharged at intervals during the day.
-
-“The dimensions of the bridge are as follows:—The extreme length of the
-chain, from the fastenings in the rock, is about 1715 feet; the height of
-the road-way from high water line, is 100 feet; each of the seven small
-piers from high water line to the spring of the arches, is 65 feet; the
-span of each arch is 52½ feet. Each of the suspending piers is 53 feet
-above the road; the roads on the bridge consist of two carriage-ways of
-12 feet each, with a foot-path of four feet in the centre; the length of
-the suspended part of the road from pier to pier is 553 feet; the
-carriage-road passes through two arches in the suspending piers, of the
-width of 9 feet by 15 feet in height to the spring of the arches. To
-counteract the contraction and expansion of the iron from the effects of
-the change of the atmosphere, a set of rollers are placed under cast-iron
-saddles on the top of the suspending piers where the chains rest; the
-vertical rods an inch square, suspended from the chains, support the
-sleepers for the flooring of the road-way, the rods being placed 5 feet
-from each other. The chains, sixteen in number, consist of five bars
-each; length of the bars 10 feet, width 3 inches by 1 inch, with six
-connecting lengths at each joint, 1 foot 4 inches by 8 inches, and 1 inch
-thick, secured by two bolts at each joint, each bolt weighing about 50
-pounds; and the total number of the bars in the cross-section of the
-chain is 80. The total weight of iron-work is 4,373,281 pounds.”
-
-The pen and pencil of genius have frequently been employed to delineate
-the Menai Bridge, and whatever difference of taste may have prevailed in
-determining the character of the various sketches, all writers have been
-unanimous in their admiration of the intellect which could devise, and
-the skill which could erect this magnificent and astonishing structure.
-The approach by water has been thus described:—“When, on entering the
-straits, the bridge is first seen suspended as it were in mid air, and
-confining the view of the fertile and richly wooded shores, it seems more
-like a light ornament than a massy bridge, and shews little of the
-strength and solidity which it really possesses. But as we approached it
-nearer, whilst it still retained its light and elegant appearance, the
-stupendous size and immensity of the work struck us with awe; and when we
-saw that a brig, with every stick standing, had just passed under it—that
-a coach going over it appeared not larger than a child’s toy—and that
-foot passengers upon it looked like pigmies, the vastness of its
-proportions was by contrast fully apparent.”
-
-Another tourist gives the subjoined outline, while surveying the
-attractive object on the spot:—“Having landed by means of boats on the
-Anglesea side, we proceeded to the bridge, the visiting of which is a new
-era in the lives of those who have not before had that pleasure, and is a
-renewed luxury to those who have seen it again and again. Our party
-walked over the bridge slowly, because there was something to be admired
-at every step;—the effect of a passing carriage; the vibration caused
-even by a hand applied to the suspending rods; the depth to the level of
-the water; the fine view of the straits in both directions; the lofty
-pillar erected in honour of the Marquis of Anglesea; the diminutive
-appearance of persons on the shore; the excellence and strength of the
-workmanship; the beauty of the arches over the road through the
-suspension piers, and the echo in them; all conspired to delight and to
-detain us. Many of our party then went down the steep bank to the foot
-of the bridge, from which point, certainly, the best view is to be had of
-the whole structure, inasmuch as by being in contact, as it were, with
-its proportions on _terra firma_, a better idea can be formed of its
-real, and indeed wonderful dimensions. We actually lingered about the
-spot careless of time, or of aught but the scene we were contemplating.”
-
-From the Suspension Bridge to Beaumaris, the road is exquisitely
-beautiful: it follows the line of the winding and indented shore of the
-Menai: now commanding an extensive view of the noble bay, and its lofty
-encircling mountains—now entering the woods of Baron Hill, scarcely
-protected from the precipice, the base of which is washed by the waves,
-which are heard chafing against the rock below—again it emerges from the
-woods, and the whole glorious panorama bursts on the sight: the beautiful
-town of Beaumaris lying at your feet, whilst the Ormeshead, Penmaen Mawr,
-the Nant Francon mountains, and the more distant range of Snowdonia, with
-Penrhyn Castle and Bangor, terminating with nature’s great rival, the
-Bridge, form a prospect of remarkable beauty and sublimity.
-
-The Menai Straits, which separate Anglesea from the main land, although
-bearing the appearance of a river, are formed by an arm of the sea; the
-navigation of which is peculiarly dangerous at particular times of the
-tide, and in stormy weather. At each extremity, during the flood, it has
-a double current, from the concussion of which, termed Pwll Ceris, it is
-perilous to encounter it; and so tremendous are the storms with which the
-straits are occasionally disturbed, that before the erection of the Menai
-Bridge, a tempestuous day has been sufficient to suspend the intercourse
-of England with Ireland, the high road to which, _via_ Holyhead, lies
-through Anglesea. Within the range of the coast, a distance of about
-fifteen miles, there are six ferries; the first of which, to the south,
-is Aber-Menai, nearly opposite Caernarvon, and the sixth, and widest at
-high water, is between the village of Aber and Beaumaris.
-
-Nicholson, in his Cambrian Guide, says, “There appears but little doubt
-of Anglesea having been once connected with the main land, as evident
-traces of an isthmus are discernible near Porthaethwy ferry; where a
-dangerous line of rocks nearly crosses the channel, and causes such
-eddies at the first flowing of the tide, that the contending currents of
-the Menai seem here to struggle for superiority. This isthmus once
-destroyed, and a channel formed, it has been the work of ages, by the
-force of spring tides and storms, gradually to deepen and enlarge the
-opening.” In support of this hypothesis, the author of Beaumaris Bay
-quotes the following historical facts:—“In the year 61, the Roman
-infantry, under Suetonius, crossed the Menai on a bridge of boats, to
-Pant-yr-Ysgraffiau (the inlet of the skiffs) under Porthamael, while the
-cavalry forded it below Llanidan. Edward the First also crossed the
-strait in the same manner at Moel-y-don, but suffered severely from an
-unfortunate attack, on the return of the tide; several of his leading
-warriors now lying in the chapel of the Friary, near Beaumaris.”
-
-
-Railway Bridge across the Menai.
-
-
-In the original prospectus for the construction of the Chester and
-Holyhead railway, it was proposed to carry the line across the suspension
-bridge which has just been described; the engines to be detached from the
-trains at each end of the bridge, and the carriages to be conveyed over
-by horses. The government very properly objected to an arrangement which
-would have been in all respects a great public inconvenience. It was
-then proposed to cross the Straits in the vicinity of the Britannia rock,
-a little to the southward of the suspension bridge, by a bridge of two
-cast-iron arches supported on piers of masonry. This project was opposed
-by the trustees of the Caernarvon harbour, as a dangerous interference
-with the free navigation of the Straits, which had always been of a
-difficult and intricate character. A long and anxious investigation of
-this matter ended in a proposal by Mr. Robert Stephenson, the eminent
-engineer to the railway company, to construct a mode of transit, which
-should be perfectly unobjectionable. In May, 1845, that gentleman
-explained to a committee of the House of Commons, to whom the Chester and
-Holyhead Railway Bill had been referred, that the engineers sent down by
-the Board of Admiralty to Bangor having reported that the proposed
-two-arched bridge would be injurious to the navigation, and recommended
-one of a much greater width, and of a flat surface, without any arch; he
-(Mr. Stephenson) had been under the necessity of preparing himself to
-carry out those suggestions. He was apprehensive that owing to the
-expansion and contraction of iron, in a position where the ends, as in an
-arch, are jammed down on immovable piers of masonry, the fabric of an
-iron arch of such great width might not be free from danger; and a
-suspension bridge would not be safely available as a railway for
-locomotive engines. He had therefore come to the conclusion, that a tube
-or tunnel, of wrought iron, large enough for the passage of trains, would
-be the most feasible plan, embracing safety for the navigation, and
-creating no delay to the transit of the railway carriages over the
-straits. The tube would be 900 feet in length, supported at the centre
-in a pier of masonry, about 100 feet high, erected on the Britannia rock.
-The ends would not be jammed, as in the case of an arch, but left free,
-so as to admit of expansion in the metal arising from the change of
-temperature. The practicability and safety of this novelty in
-engineering science, were attested by several witnesses of competent
-skill and ability; and the plan was ultimately sanctioned by Parliament.
-The pier of masonry to be erected on the Britannia rock, which lies about
-mid-way across the stream, is to have four sides, each of 50 feet width;
-the water-way on each side of the pier to be 450 feet wide; the height
-and shape of the Menai suspension bridge to be maintained in the
-construction of the proposed tunnel, with the same clear headway for the
-free passage of vessels navigating the straits. At a meeting of the
-Chester and Holyhead Railway Company, in August 1845, the report
-presented by the board of management contained the following passages:—
-
- “With reference to the magnitude, as well as the novelty of the work,
- your directors deemed it essential that the plan of crossing the
- Menai Straits, proposed by Mr. Stephenson, the company’s engineer,
- should be subjected to the test of experiments. Those experiments
- have been in progress for some time, and are now nearly completed.
- The results as at present shewn are extremely satisfactory,
- confirming most strongly the soundness of the principle, and giving
- the most perfect confidence to your directors, with regard to the
- proposed stupendous structure, that its erection will be easy, and
- that its security will be complete and lasting. So satisfied is Mr.
- Stephenson with the comparative strength, durability, and economy of
- this new method of bridge-building, that he purposes adopting it also
- for the crossing of the river at Conway.”
-
-In the spring of 1846, contracts for the erection of this novel bridge
-over the Menai were entered into; the works are now in progress; and this
-singular triumph of engineering skill will afford another extraordinary
-instance of the achievements of railway enterprise; and add another to
-the many wonders of nature and art, which abound throughout this
-attractive district of the Principality.
-
-
-Penrhyn Castle,
-
-
-The magnificent seat of the Hon. E. Douglas Pennant, M.P. for
-Caernarvonshire, is within an easy walk of Bangor. The present castle is
-said to have been built on the site of a palace of Roderic Molwynog,
-prince of Wales, who began his reign in 720, and long continued in
-possession of the Welsh sovereigns. This ancient demesne has been a
-favourite subject of the British muse from the earliest times.
-
- Abode of native chiefs, of bards the theme,
- Here princely Penrhyn soars above the stream,
- And phœnix-like, in rising splendour drest,
- Shews on its wide domain a regal crest;
- Here Cambria opes her tomes of other days,
- And with maternal pride, the page displays—
- Dwells on the glorious list, and loves to trace
- From Britain’s genuine kings—her noblest race.
-
-The estate came into the family of Pennant, partly by the purchase of the
-late Lord Penrhyn’s father (John Pennant, Esq.), and partly by his own
-marriage with Anne Susannah, daughter and sole heiress of the
-late-General Warburton, of Winnington, in Cheshire. By this matrimonial
-compact, the two moieties, which had for some time been divided, became
-united: and his lordship having no issue, the immense estates devolved
-upon the late George Hay Dawkins Pennant, Esq., whose daughter married
-the present respected possessor. The lady with whose hand so wealthy a
-dowry was bestowed, died in the year 1842, and in January, 1846, the Hon.
-E. D. Pennant married Lady Louisa Fitzroy, the accomplished daughter of
-the Duke and Duchess of Grafton. Lord Penrhyn made very considerable
-alterations in the mansion; and his immediate successor, whose public
-spirit well accorded with that of his lordship, and whose generous
-munificence endeared him to the surrounding district, was long engaged in
-rebuilding it, in a magnificent style, so as to render it one of the most
-complete edifices in the kingdom. It is erected in the boldest style of
-castellated architecture, of Mona marble, and displays a magnificent
-range of buildings, crowned with lofty towers, of which five are
-circular; the keep, and another of the principal towers are square, with
-angular turrets. The internal decorations correspond with the grandeur
-of the exterior; the mantle-pieces and other ornaments being made of Mona
-marble, which admits of a very high polish: the furniture is also
-extremely elegant. The situation is most picturesque and imposing, and
-commands a glorious, extensive, and diversified prospect of marine and
-mountain scenery. There are several lodges forming entrances to the
-park, all elegant in their design, and lofty in their elevation; the
-principal one, which is near the junction of the London and Chester
-roads, being a stately and beautiful specimen of the architecture of the
-whole. A grand massive substantial gateway, on a corresponding plan, has
-been completed; together with a handsome park wall, thirteen feet high,
-and seven miles in circuit.
-
-There is an elegant chapel near the castle, for the accommodation of the
-family; and on the beach are handsome and commodious hot and cold baths.
-The stables are upon a noble and extensive scale. The building has a
-handsome façade, fronted with patent slate, and the pilasters which
-divide the stalls, as well as the mangers, are of the same material.
-Indeed, this very valuable article appears to be converted, on the
-Penrhyn demesne, to every possible use. The park is fenced with narrow
-upright slate slabs, cut in imitation of palisadoes, and fixed by pins to
-oaken railings, which find their support in posts formed of cubic slate.
-
-In this mansion is still preserved a hirlas, or drinking horn of the
-hero, Piers Gruffydd, perhaps the only elegant specimen of that kind of
-utensil, elucidatory of ancient manners, at present existing. It is a
-large bugle, of an ox’s horn, ornamented with enchased silver, and
-suspended by a chain of the same metal, having the initials of his own
-name and family engraved at the end. Piers Gruffydd owned Penrhyn estate
-in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and joined the fleet of Sir Francis
-Drake, in a vessel which he purchased and equipped at his own cost. He
-was afterwards in the gallant action with the Spanish Armada. In the
-royal court of Cambria, there were legally three sorts of horns for the
-purpose of public or private libations. The first was _y corn ydd yuo y
-brenin_, or the one solely appropriated to the king’s use; second, _corn
-cyweithas_, by which the domestics of the palace were summoned to duty;
-and third, corn _y pencynydd_, committed to the custody of the chief
-huntsman. On grand occasions, the domestics of the palace were permitted
-to drink out of the sovereign’s horn; and the chamberlain or high
-steward, on such occasions, furnished handsome potations of the generous
-metheglin. The contents of the horn at these times assumed the name of
-the sacred potion, similar to the _wassail_ bowl, or the apostle’s cup,
-in use among the Saxons. Ulphus, when he conveyed certain lands to the
-church at York, is said to have quaffed off the contents of such a
-vessel, drinking a health, _Deo et sancto Petro_ (to God and St. Peter).
-On festive days, the imperative custom was to empty the horn at one tip,
-and instantly blow it, as a testimony that it had been thoroughly
-drained.
-
-The improvements made by the late Lord Penrhyn in this very interesting
-parish and its flourishing neighbourhood were most comprehensive and
-important. The aspect of the country has, in fact, been thoroughly
-changed; and profitable employment found for thousands of the working
-population. About forty years ago, this part of the country bore a most
-wild, barren, and neglected appearance; but it is now covered with
-handsome villas, well-built farm-houses, neat cottages, rich meadows,
-well-cultivated fields, and flourishing plantations; bridges have been
-built, new roads made, bogs and swampy grounds drained and cultivated,
-neat fences raised, and barren rocks covered with woods.
-
-
-Slate Quarries.
-
-
-The slate quarries at Cae Braich-y-Cefn (about six from Bangor), in the
-vicinity of Nant Francon, the most considerable in Wales, are the
-property of the family of Penrhyn Castle. The rock has been opened at
-vast expense, and the quarries are worked with great judgment and
-enterprise. There are more than 2000 persons continually employed; and
-it is computed that about two hundred tons of slates are daily conveyed
-down to Port Penrhyn, whence they are exported to various parts of the
-kingdom, to Ireland, and to America. These quarries were discovered so
-far back as the time of Queen Elizabeth. In 1740 the slates were all of
-one size, and very small. But when Lord Penrhyn took the quarries into
-his own hands, about 1782, his lordship cleared the rubbish, which had
-been accumulating for ages, and opened these quarries in a judicious and
-scientific manner. His lordship also constructed an iron railway from
-the quarries to Port Penrhyn, a distance of six miles, which is said to
-have cost £170,000. The weekly wages now paid to the workmen engaged in
-these quarries amount to about £1700.
-
-On the arrival of a visitor, he should, if possible, obtain permission to
-accompany one of the overlookers of the works in his round, rather than
-trust to the casual guidance of any idler who may be found lurking about
-with the intention to profer assistance; as the sole object of the latter
-is to procure payment, without giving himself much trouble in pointing
-out the wonders of the place. Should he be successful, the intelligent
-and communicative spirit of his guide will amply repay the difficulty he
-may have experienced in finding him.
-
-He will be conducted to every ledge of the mountain, up an inclined
-plane, till he reaches the summit, and will have an opportunity of seeing
-the whole process of the slate manufacture. In one place he will
-discover the workmen aloft, suspended by ropes against the precipitous
-side of the rock, busily employed in splitting down every projecting
-shelf of the blue steganium; in another, persons employed in the
-laborious occupation of boring for the purpose of filling the orifice
-with gunpowder, to rend the rock from the immense mass to which it is
-attached; others occupied in removing the rubbish, of which so many
-years’ labour has produced a wonderful accumulation; and numbers in
-splitting the detached masses, and cutting them into a variety of sizes,
-denominated duchesses, countesses, ladies, &c. which names were bestowed
-by General Warburton about the year 1765. This process is executed with
-astonishing rapidity. Then may be heard the alarum shout, betokening
-that a fusee is lighted and will soon explode, warning those employed in
-the vicinity to secure themselves from danger; and in a few moments, the
-explosion itself rattles through the extensive levels with terrific
-grandeur. It cannot be expected that accidents amongst the workmen are
-of rare occurrence; on the contrary, they too frequently happen, for
-scarce a week passes without some poor fellows meeting with severe bodily
-injury; but this is solely attributed to their own negligence of the
-proper precaution.
-
-Portions of the mountain are farmed by individuals, who pay a price
-consonant with the value or quality of the substratum, and employ workmen
-to remove and fit it for exportation; when they receive so much per
-thousand, in the same ratio, for their labour. There is a strong spring
-of water at the top of the mountain, which is conveyed by a large wooden
-pipe to the bottom, and there rendered serviceable in turning an immense
-cutting mill. A few hundred yards distant, also, are several mills of
-this description, where large pieces of rock are cut into grave-stones,
-and into the requisite sizes for roofing houses, and for the use of
-schools, &c.
-
-St. Ann’s chapel, near the quarries, was erected and liberally endowed by
-the late Lord Penrhyn; and Lady Penrhyn left a sum for an organ, and a
-suitable stipend for the organist.—Within a short distance of the slate
-quarries is the charming cottage of the late Lady Penrhyn, called
-
-
-Ogwen Bank.
-
-
-It is now used by Mr. Pennant’s family as an occasional resort on paying
-a morning visit to the quarries, or other objects of curiosity in the
-neighbourhood. The style is florid Gothic, and shows great taste in the
-design. The centre contains an elegant room, the front of it forming a
-segment of a circle; the wings contain a coach house and stabling. Over
-the river Ogwen is a bridge corresponding with the architecture of the
-house. This beautiful cottage is hid from the road by the trees and
-plantation; Llwyd calls it “the Eden of the Mountains.”
-
-Before quitting this remarkably interesting vicinity, we take leave to
-quote the following description from the graphic pen of Miss Costello:—
-
- “From Bangor the lofty towers and turrets of Penrhyn Castle are
- conspicuous in the scenery, and have a very grand and imposing
- appearance, more so than any modern erection of the kind I ever saw.
- The building stands on a commanding height, and from its elevation
- has a magnificent view of Beaumaris Bay, and all the wide sweep of
- the sea, Puffin or Priestholm Island and a great part of Anglesea,
- the fine bold rock of the Great Orme’s Head, said to have once been
- dedicated to Serpent worship, and the range of the Caernarvonshire
- mountains.
-
- “So stately, so massive, and so stupendous is this castle, that it
- scarcely seems the work of a modern architect; and if there had been
- more simplicity observed in its construction, it might well pass for
- a genuine Roman castle. The enormous profusion of ornament with
- which the doors, windows, staircases, halls, and ceilings are
- covered, betray the effort made to render that complete which would
- have been more so with less pains. The involved pillars, the
- redundant zigzags, the countless grotesque heads, of all sizes,
- grinning from all heights, the groves of slender columns, the
- circular arches, the semi-pointed arcades, form a maze of
- architecture such as never could have before, in any age, appeared on
- one spot.
-
- “To wander through the wondrous halls of Penrhyn is like struggling
- along in a bewildered dream, occasioned by having studied some
- elaborate work on the early buildings of the Saxons and Normans. The
- eyes are dazzled and the mind confused with the quick succession of
- astonishing forms; but the result is rather wonder at the imagination
- or close copying of the artist, and at the enormous wealth which
- could repay such an exertion of skill, than admiration of the beauty
- created. Mona marble and fine stone furnish materials for all these
- sculptured treasures, and slate enters into much of the adornment;
- for close by are the famous slate-quarries, which have produced the
- enormous sums expended on this erection. In order to shew what can
- be done with slate, various articles of furniture are placed in the
- rooms occupying the places usually filled by carved wood and marble;
- chimney-pieces and tables of polished slate are seen, but the great
- triumph is a bedstead, beautifully carved, which, though far from
- elegant, is yet exceedingly curious.
-
- “The library and drawing-rooms are very fine, and have even a
- comfortable appearance: all the house is gorgeously decorated, and
- all its laboured splendour announces such immense riches, that it
- seems as though the gnomes who work gold and silver in the
- neighbouring hills had all been made slaves of some potent lamp or
- ring, and had worked incessantly for years in the construction and
- adornment of the most gigantic mass of architecture that ever was
- beheld. There are, however, very few specimens of the higher order
- of art; a few portraits are to be found in one room, which are
- curious. In particular I was struck with a likeness of the
- celebrated Anne Clifford, of Cumberland, when a child: she is dressed
- in a stiff black dress, all over buttons and ornaments, and from
- under her arm peeps a hideous little dog. As, in her memoirs, she
- dwells a good deal on her own beauty, one cannot but smile at this
- comment on her vanity, for, unless the artist did her great
- injustice, she must have been a singularly ugly child. Two portraits
- of the Countess of Derby are remarkable: one has a child’s doll lying
- on a table near her, and in the other she is represented holding a
- feather fan, and covered and half smothered with elaborate ruffs
- which seem to bristle up in every part of her attire.
-
- “The famous hirlas horn, belonging to an ancient Cambrian prince, the
- treasure of the castle, we had not an opportunity of seeing, as we
- found it was carefully locked up from public view. It held the same
- place as the Saxon wassail bowl, and it was customary that those who
- had the honour of drinking from it should empty the horn at one
- draught, and then blow it, to prove that they had performed the feat
- expected of them. One of the most picturesque objects on the way to
- the famous slate quarries, is the little mill of Coet Mor, whose
- wheel is turned by a rushing stream breaking wildly over heaps of
- rocks.
-
- “The slate quarries of Penrhyn are situated near Nant Ffrancon, at a
- spot called Cae Braich-y-Cefn, and are exceedingly curious, and even
- picturesque. We were conducted over them by a very loquacious
- Irishman, the only person of his nation employed in the works, all
- the others being Welsh.
-
- “Most of these places, where enormous labour produces enormous
- wealth, are to me displeasing to contemplate; but there is nothing
- here that conveys an idea of over-tasked workmen, no horrible
- underground toil and dark dungeon-like caves, where human creatures
- are condemned, like souls in penance for some hideous crime, to drag
- heavy weights and chains through frightful chasms, and delve and dig
- for ore in spaces not large enough for them to stand upright; here
- are no deadly vapours, no fatal gases mortal to humanity, all is wide
- and open in the pure light of day, high, and broad, and healthy. The
- mountain is cut into ridges of slate, and here and there the
- projecting edges have formed themselves into graceful shapes: in the
- very centre of the quarry rises a beautiful conical pillar of slate
- which the admiration of the workmen has spared, now that their
- labours have brought it to the shape which it bears. It is a great
- ornament to the area, and it is to be regretted that in time it must
- fall, as the slate of which it is composed happens to be of the
- purest kind. The huts of the workmen scattered over the quarry have
- a singular effect, and the wild aspect of the men accords well with
- their abodes. The thundering sound produced by the occasional
- blasting of the rock is very grand, as it rolls and echoes amongst
- the caves, and along the heights; and the grey masses glowing in the
- sun, and reflecting the sky through their rents, have an imposing
- aspect.”
-
-In July, 1844, the King of Saxony made a tour through England and Wales;
-a narrative of which, written by His Majesty’s Physician, Dr. Carus, has
-been published in the present year (1846). From that journal of the
-royal travels, we extract the subjoined passages—which may serve to show
-the impressions made upon the mind of an intelligent though somewhat
-prejudiced foreigner, by the more striking objects of interest in this
-locality.
-
- “As the road approaches Bangor, it runs near the sea, and brings us
- close to the end of one of the most extraordinary structures of
- modern times—the vast iron suspension bridge which forms the junction
- between the mainland and the island, universally known and celebrated
- as the Menai Bridge.
-
- “The drivers were ordered to stop, and we dismounted, in order to
- pass over and examine this splendid work, and endeavour to gain as
- accurate an idea as possible of its nature and size. The coasts of
- Wales and Anglesea at both sides of the strait, are rocky, and about
- 100 feet high, and the breadth of the channel by which they are
- separated, is about 1600 feet. The object was to connect the two
- coasts by a bridge, and it has been fully attained. Two very stout
- columns of solid masonry are built in the water, one on each side,
- over the summits of which are stretched the immense chains, from
- which the bridge itself is suspended. The channel between the
- columns is about 600 feet wide, and over this stretches the
- horizontal line of the road-way, which is supported and made fast by
- means of about 800 strong iron rods. Each of the sixteen chains
- which constitute the suspending power, is stated to be 1714 feet
- long, and consists of large massive links, joined and bound together
- by strong iron bolts. These chains pass over the tops of the
- supporting columns, on moveable iron rollers of great strength, and
- are thus in a condition readily to accommodate themselves to the
- changes of temperature, without risk. The greatest difference in
- length between the strongest summer heat and most intense winter
- cold, is said to amount to sixteen inches. The work was begun under
- the direction of Mr. Telford, in the year 1819, and finished in 1826.
- Such is the general idea of the whole structure. When seen from the
- side, it is very difficult immediately to form a notion of the
- magnitude of the work; and besides, the simplicity of the outline
- gives at first an impression of very moderate extent. The feeling is
- very much the same as that with which strangers are impressed on the
- first view of St. Peter’s in Rome. They find it extremely difficult
- to believe that a structure of such magnitude is before them. And as
- the banks on both sides are very uniform, it requires to be compared
- with some other object—such as that of a large ship sailing through
- beneath, in order to gain a correct notion of its real magnitude. On
- viewing the bridge, and passing over it, through its long uniform
- alleys of ever-recurring iron rods, another observation forced itself
- upon my mind. This immense work, which in all its parts is regulated
- by the principle of utility, is totally deficient in all the charms
- of beauty. It cuts the landscape like a black uniform line, concave
- on one side, and perfectly horizontal on the other; and when viewed
- closely, the columns by which the bridge is supported, are wholly
- destitute of every description of architectural or sculptural
- ornament. Those perpetually recurring iron rods, which follow one
- another in monotonous rows, only serve to suggest the feeling of
- despair to which a painter must be reduced in any attempt to
- delineate the structure, and to give any thing like an accurate
- drawing of this tedious iron lattice-road. True, it may be very
- difficult to combine the demands of taste with the strict principles
- of utility in such an undertaking, where the grand object is
- strength. There is, properly speaking, a genuine English, dry,
- pedantic character usually exhibited in such structures as this.
- And, after all, what style should art here apply in order to
- introduce the charms of beauty into a work of this character?
- Neither the Egyptian nor Grecian style is at all appropriate to works
- in iron—the Gothic is quite as little applicable to such a
- purpose—and I have already remarked that in addition to these three,
- there can be as little pretension to introduce a fourth, really
- distinct from them, as to add a new kingdom to those of the
- recognised mineral, animal, and vegetable ones. This makes the task
- of the architect a very difficult one to accomplish. It is for them
- to see how the difficulty is to be met.
-
- “Having passed over the bridge to the Anglesea side, we descended to
- the shore, and took a boat, in order to have a view of this immense
- structure from beneath. By far the clearest idea of the vastness of
- the work is thus obtained, by viewing it from the green sea, which
- flows beneath with a gentle southerly current; the true magnitude and
- proportions of the bridge are then most deeply impressed upon the
- mind; but even here, no idea of beauty is suggested. Other bridges,
- with their various arches and ornamental buttresses, may, and
- frequently do present objects of great beauty to the eye. This,
- however, is, and must always remain, a great _mathematical figure_.
-
- “After having thus examined the bridge from all parts of the river,
- we descended into the vast cavern on the Anglesea side, in which the
- ends of the chains are made fast in the rocks far under ground. The
- whole is planned with great ingenuity and skill. The rock, which
- forms the resisting power, is armed, as it were, with huge masses of
- iron, containing deep mortices, into which the bolts that bind the
- ends of the chains are made fast.
-
- “In this manner, therefore, the sixteen powerful chains are fastened
- in the deep rocks on both sides of the strait; and assuredly, no
- human power or weight can be well conceived sufficient to tear them
- from the depth in which they are anchored. Even the long Macadamized
- bridge itself presents such a degree of stability, as to be very
- little moved by the carriages which pass over its surface.”
-
- * * * *
-
- “On the morning of the 13th, (July, 1844,) the birthday of my dear
- mother, I enjoyed a beautiful view of the little port of Bangor, from
- the garden terrace of the hotel, from which a view is obtained of the
- northern opening of the Menai Strait, of the bay of Beaumaris, and
- the more distant mountains of Wales. The weather, too, was tolerably
- fine in the morning; but at the time of our departure it had become
- cloudy, and it was raining hard when we arrived at the remarkable and
- extensive Penrhyn slate quarries, which are of great importance to
- the whole of Wales. They are situated about six miles to the N.E. of
- Bangor, on the slope of the hill, and have been particularly rich and
- productive for the last fifty years. When one arrives at this quarry
- from below, it presents the appearance almost of a crater open
- towards the front, along the lips of which, twelve or fourteen
- terraces run, one above another, each of which is from forty-five to
- fifty feet high, and upon which the works of blasting and digging are
- carried on by about 2000 workmen. The stone is of a reddish-brown;
- sometimes, also, greyish slate, of fine grain, which splits well into
- plates, and takes a fine polish. The mass never contains organic
- remains, but is frequently traversed by strata of quarry or
- limestone, in which crystals of some metals, principally copper and
- iron, occur.
-
- “The manner in which these quarries are worked is the following. On
- the galleries, or terraces, large masses of slate are first detached
- by means of powder, and then roughly hewn into shape. There are laid
- along each of these terraces tram-roads formed of rails loosely laid
- down, upon which the masses of slate, in waggons with suitable
- wheels, are thrust along by men to the little houses situated on the
- declivity of the mountain, at the extremities of the galleries. Here
- they are split into smaller plates; and it is curious to observe how
- regularly the slate splits into fine and still finer plates, down to
- the thickness of three or four lines. Several pieces are allowed to
- retain a thickness of an inch or an inch and a half, and are used for
- tables and flagstones, the thinner ones for covering roofs, &c. The
- manner, too, in which they are squared, being cut out at once by a
- sort of hatchet, according to a line made by means of a ruler, is
- very curious. The plates thus formed are distinguished by very
- amusing names. Thus the largest are called _queens_, the next
- _princesses_, then _duchesses_, _ladies_, and so on. The enormous
- quantity of slate produced may be estimated from the facts, that a
- railway has been constructed specially from these quarries to Penrhyn
- harbour, at an expense of £170,000, which _every week_ takes down
- between 500 and 600 tons, or about 12,000 cwt. of slate; and that the
- yearly net produce has sometimes brought in as much as £60,000 to the
- owner of the quarry, the Hon. Douglas Pennant.
-
- “The quarrying itself is attended with considerable danger. The
- workmen, when a portion of the rock is to be blasted from the upper
- part of a gallery, are obliged to bore the hole, suspended in mid-air
- by ropes, to load the hole so bored, to set fire to the match, and
- then to place themselves beyond the reach of the explosion. They are
- also exposed to the chance of accidents from the falling of portions
- of the sharp slate; and it was carious, even yesterday—on which,
- being pay-day, the work was not regularly going on—to hear now and
- then the explosion of the blasting of some part of the rock, at the
- same time that it was almost difficult to pass along the galleries,
- without falling over the little railways or some of the sharp pieces
- of stone. The manner in which Queen Victoria was received here, on
- her visit some years ago, must have produced a curious effect. As
- soon as she arrived, 1300 explosions were heard from all parts of the
- quarry, having been all previously prepared for this purpose. After
- having (the greater part of the time in the rain) inspected all the
- parts of this immense quarry, and, besides, a saw-mill, for cutting
- up the thicker plates of the slate, we returned towards Bangor, and
- visited Penrhyn Castle, the property of the Hon. D. Pennant. In
- olden times, a castle belonging to Roderic Molwynog, grandson of
- Cadwallader, stood on this spot. It was rebuilt in the time of Henry
- the Sixth, and has been quite lately renewed (under the direction of
- a London architect, of the name of Hopper) by the father-in-law of
- the present possessor. It is a remarkable and splendid building,
- such as could only be completed with a revenue like that proceeding
- from the quarries.
-
- “On entering the park, the castle is seen on a wooded height, grey,
- like Windsor, with large towers and high turrets, without any
- apparent roof, quite like an old fortress. Through the castle-gate
- we entered the court-yard, ornamented in the Norman style: but this
- style is much more splendidly and grandly exhibited in the
- entrance-hall, from whence staircases conduct to the upper rooms.
- Every thing here is in the Saxon style of building; the columns with
- their curious ornaments, and the upper parts covered with arabesques.
- Tall stone candelabra and a splendid chimney-piece, all in the same
- style, increase the magnificent appearance of the hall; the windows
- with their round arches are filled with stained glass; the staircase
- winds over arches supported on columns, and beside Norman statues; in
- a word, the whole sight is grand and imposing. The internal
- arrangements of the whole place, the drawing and dining rooms, the
- library, the bed-rooms, are all on a similar scale of magnificence;
- several wainscotted with beautiful carved oak: the furniture and beds
- all harmonising with the prevailing style of the building. We
- remarked a curious object in the state bed-room (almost all such
- castles appear to have such a state room, with a bed in it); namely,
- a bed, of which the whole of the bedstead and the posts which
- supported the canopy were made of the finest black slate, beautifully
- polished and manufactured. This reference to the principal
- foundation of the wealth of the possessor, appeared to me to show his
- gratitude rather than his taste. It may easily be supposed, however,
- that other curious objects were to be seen here; among these, we were
- shewn one of those curious drinking horns, formerly general in this
- district, as also in Scandinavia. I was sorry that we entirely lost
- the view from the continued rain; for this view, both towards the sea
- and towards the mountains, must be of a very splendid description.”
-
-
-
-BANGOR IS-Y-COED,
-(_Flintshire_.)
-
-Chester 13
-Ellesmere 8
-Holt 7
-Overton 3
-Whitchurch 10½
-Wrexham 5
-
-Bangor Is-y-coed stands in a detached part of the country, on the banks
-of the Dee, over which is a good stone bridge of five arches, from the
-vicinity of which a beautiful landscape is presented. This place is
-celebrated as the site of the most ancient monastery in Britain, founded,
-as old writers assert, by Lucius, the son of Coel, and first Christian
-king of Britain, prior to the year 180. Lucius formed it into a
-university, for the increase of learning, and the preservation of the
-Christian faith in this realm; and it produced many learned men even in
-that early age. At the arrival of Augustine about 596, on a mission from
-Pope Gregory I. to convert the English Saxons to Christianity, this
-monastery appears to have been in a very flourishing state. The monks at
-Bangor were independent of the Romish church; and in a conference between
-St. Augustine and its governors, the imperious missionary demanded of
-them that they should keep the feast of Easter at the same time that the
-Papists did; that they should administer baptism according to the
-ceremonies of the church of Rome; and “preach the word of life with him
-and his fellows.” In other things, he said, they would be allowed to
-retain their ancient customs, insolently concluding, that “if they would
-not accept of peace with their brethren, they should receive war from
-their enemies.” They refused obedience to his injunctions, and
-resolutely maintained the original rites of their church. Shortly after
-this period followed the dreadful massacre of the monks of Bangor.
-
-Not long after this event, the monastery became neglected, and went
-entirely to decay. William of Malmsbury, who lived shortly after the
-Norman conquest, asserts, that even in his time, there remained only some
-relics of its ancient magnificence: there were, he says, so many ruined
-churches and such immense heaps of rubbish, as were not elsewhere to be
-found. Leland says of it, in the time of Henry the Seventh, that its
-site was in a fertile valley on the south side of the Dee; but that the
-river having since changed its course, then ran through the middle of the
-ground on which it stood. The extent of its walls, he affirms, was equal
-to that of the walls round a town; and the two gates, the names of which
-had been handed down by tradition, had been half a mile asunder. Within
-the memory of persons then living, the bones of the monks, and pieces of
-their clothes, had been ploughed up, in the cultivation of the ground.
-
-
-
-BARMOUTH OR ABERMAW,
-(_Merionethshire_.)
-
-Aberdovey 16
-Dolgelley 10
-Harlech 10
-London 225
-Towyn 12
-
-The town of Barmouth is seated near the bottom of some high mountains,
-many of the houses being built on the steep sides; and viewed from the
-sea, it resembles a fortress of some strength, hanging immediately over
-the sands. The town stands near to the sea, at the mouth of the Maw or
-Mawddach, and takes its name of Barmouth, i.e. Abermaw or Mawddach, from
-that circumstance. At high water, the tide here forms a bay above a mile
-over, but the entrance is rather hazardous, on account of the sand-banks.
-This is the only port of Merionethshire, but its commerce is not very
-extensive. The chief manufactures are flannels and woollen stockings;
-and of these Mr. Pennant observed sixty years ago, that £40,000 worth of
-the former have been exported in a year, and £10,000 worth of stockings.
-
-The parish church is distant about a mile and a half from the town, but
-in 1830 a chapel of ease was opened here for Divine service, which is
-principally performed in English. A national school has recently been
-erected at the outskirts of the town, on the Harlech road, from an
-excellent design by Mr. Jones, of Chester. There are also chapels in the
-town occupied by the Wesleyans, the Calvinists, and Independents.
-
-The town is generally well filled with fashionable bathers in the summer
-season, for whose convenience, accommodation, and amusement, the
-inhabitants have made ample provision. There are two excellent inns: the
-Cors-y-gedol Arms, where post chaises and cars, as well as guides to
-Coder Idris, and the lakes and waterfalls, may be obtained; and also the
-Commercial Inn, with stabling and coach-houses. During the summer
-months, stage-coaches leave and arrive every day in the week, except
-Sunday, from different places, including Liverpool, Shrewsbury, and
-Caernarvon. There is a mail every day to and from the latter place,
-passing through Harlech, Tan-y-bwlch, Tremadoc, and Beddgelert. A
-four-horse mail-coach between Chester and Barmouth has lately commenced
-running daily. There are several good shops; and for the accommodation
-of visitors, circulating libraries have been established. Here, also,
-are two baths, a billiard-room, and a bowling-green. The lodging houses
-are excellent. The town, and the turnpike-roads throughout the district,
-have lately been greatly improved, and are still improving. The
-population is about 2000.
-
-“The beach,” says Mr. Bingley, “is one of the most delightful walks I
-ever beheld. The wide river Mawddach winds among the mountains, forming
-many and elegant promontories. These rise to great heights on each side,
-some clad with wood, and others exhibiting their naked rocks, scantily
-covered with purple heath. The summit of the lofty Cader Idris is seen
-to rise above the other mountains, in the back ground.” From Barmouth a
-delightful excursion may be made along the banks of the Maw, or in a boat
-up the river, for about eight miles. The beach also affords a beautiful
-drive of six miles. From this place a projecting causeway, called
-Sarn-Badric, runs 15 miles into the sea, which tradition says, though her
-evidence alone is but slight authority, once surrounded one hundred
-cities. The upper part is perceptible at low water.
-
-In the neighbourhood of Barmouth are several gentlemen’s mansions and
-other pretty residences, of which Bryntirion, the property of Charles
-Henry Harford, Esq., was the most beautiful: it was destroyed by fire
-about the latter end of 1840, and has not yet been rebuilt.
-
-The Rev. Mr. Newell, in his Scenery of Wales, observes that while at
-Cors-y-gedol Arms, at Barmouth, he was introduced to a Welsh harper,
-whose performance he did not seem much to admire. Mr. Newell then adds,
-“It is a curious circumstance that we owe Gray’s Bard to a Welsh
-harper—blind Parry, Sir W. W. Wynn’s harper. In a letter from Cambridge,
-Gray says:—‘Mr. Parry has been here, and scratched out such ravishing
-blind harmony, such tones of a thousand years old, with names enough to
-choke you, as have set all this learned body a dancing, and inspired them
-with due respect for my old bard, his countryman, whenever he shall
-appear. Mr. Parry, you must know, has set my ode in motion again, and
-has brought it at last to a conclusion.’”
-
-The angling stations are, Arthog Chapel, three miles distant, and Llyn
-Bodlyn, four miles from Barmouth; Llyn Irddin and Llyn Geirw, near to the
-town; and Llyn Raithlyn, in the neighbourhood of Traws-fynydd.
-
-
-
-BEAUMARIS,
-(_Anglesea_.)
-
-Amlwch 17
-Bangor, by the bridge 6½
-Caernarvon 12
-Conway 14½
-Holyhead 27
-London, by Chester 258
-— by Shrewsbury 243
-Mona 14
-Snowdon 12
-
-Beaumaris, a most respectable and well-built town, in Anglesea, is a
-corporate borough, where the assizes for that county are held. The town
-and liberties are included in the parishes of Llandegvan and Llanvaes:
-the whole occupying a district nearly semi-circular in form, and
-presenting to the Menai a bold rocky cliff of three miles, and an
-indented beach of more than two. This place, like many others on the
-Welsh coast, has lately become a most fashionable resort for bathing
-visitors, for which it is admirably adapted, the sands being firm and the
-water clear. In 1805, hot baths were erected here, and accommodations of
-the first class abound.
-
-The church, formerly called “the Chauntry of our Lady of Beaumaris,” is
-considered as a chapel of ease to Llandegvan. It is situated on an
-eminence in the centre of the town, and consists of a nave, isles, and
-chancel, covered with lead, and embrasured; having a ring of six bells, a
-clock, and an organ, all the gift of the late Lord Bulkeley. In the
-chancel is a beautiful monument of a knight and his lady, in white
-alabaster, recumbent on an altar-tomb. Mr. Llwyd says, they represent
-Sir Richard Bulkeley and his lady; the former was appointed Chamberlain
-of North Wales, and was in great favour with Queen Elizabeth. In the
-church, a white marble monument, executed by Westmacott, in memory of the
-late Lord Bulkeley, who died June 3, 1822, stands on the left side of the
-altar: this beautiful piece of sculpture represents Faith directing the
-view of the dejected widow towards the bust of her husband and to heaven.
-Also a beautiful monument of a female kneeling in an attitude of
-devotion, on a pedestal, by Ternouth, to the memory of Charlotte Mary,
-first wife of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley, Bart., and daughter of Lord
-Dinorben. There is likewise a tablet to the memory of David Hughes,
-erected in 1812, by some persons who had been educated in the Free School
-of which he was the founder. There are also several other monuments and
-tablets, but not possessing any peculiar attraction. On a plain stone
-near the east entrance into the church is the following quaint
-inscription to the memory of Meredith Davies:—
-
- Who has been our parish clerk
- Full one and thirty years, I say,
- Must here, alas! lie in the dark
- Bemoaned for ever and for aye.
-
-Near to the church is the Free School, founded in 1603, by David Hughes,
-Esq., who also endowed alms-houses for six poor persons, to whom he
-granted annuities; the late Lord Bulkeley added four to this number; they
-are situated about a mile from the town, near the entrance of Baron Hill
-Park. Near the castle are the shire hall, and other suitable offices,
-where the assizes are held. The town-hall is a good building, comprising
-the assembly-room and a suite of civic apartments. A custom-house and a
-national school are also included among the public institutions of
-Beaumaris.
-
-The Williams Bulkeley Arms Hotel is a magnificent establishment, and most
-admirably conducted. The Commercial and Liverpool Arms Inns are also
-houses where good accommodation may be had. The market-days are
-Wednesday and Saturday. Population, 2299.
-
-Beaumaris enjoys a most beautiful and sublime prospect, with the
-distinguishing peculiarity, that the eye at the same time rests on a
-noble expanse of the ocean, and an extensive range of some of the
-loftiest mountains in Wales. A grander or more interesting scene it is
-impossible to imagine. From the spacious piece of ground called the
-Green, which, landward, is enclosed by the hotel, a splendid range of
-houses called Victoria Terrace, and the old Castle, this enchanting view
-is seen to the best advantage; seaward, at full tide, it presents to the
-eye an infinite variety, in numbers of trading vessels, yachts, and
-smaller pleasure boats, constantly passing close to the beach, whilst at
-low water the sands afford many delightful and extensive drives.
-
- “Ever charming, ever new,
- When will the landscape tire the view?”
-
-
-
-The Castle.
-
-
-Beaumaris castle was the last of the three great fortresses erected by
-Edward the First, to hold in awe his new and unwilling subjects on both
-sides the Menai. For this purpose he fixed upon a flat near the water
-side, with the view of surrounding it with a fosse, for the double
-purpose of defence, and bringing small craft to unload their cargoes
-under its walls; part of which canal, called the Llyn-y-Green, was till
-lately remaining; and the large iron ring, to which the vessels were
-fastened, is still in its place at the great east gate.
-
-Within the present ruins of the castle is an area or square, of 190 feet,
-with obtuse corners; on the right is the chapel, an admirable piece of
-masonry, and the only entire room in all Edward’s buildings; its stone
-arched roof having saved it at the general dilapidation. Opposite to the
-south-east entrance is the great hall, 70 feet long and 23 broad, with a
-range of five elegant windows, and forming a front (its turreted angles
-excepted) that has rather a modern appearance; and though, upon the
-whole, a fortress of prodigious magnitude, yet its low situation, and the
-great diameter of its Moorish towers, cause its ample proportions to
-appear of less height and extent than is really the case. This castle is
-reputed to be the scene of the massacre of the bards by Edward the First,
-who does not appear to have felt secure in his newly-acquired dominions
-so long as this influential order remained to raise the song and string
-the lyre to deeds of patriotic resistance. The same system of
-persecution seems to have been acted upon after the death of the
-bardicide; for in the reign of Henry the Fourth, Rhŷs Gôch, speaking of
-Gruffydd Llwyd, says—
-
- “The best of bards is interdicted.”
-
-Within the area of this ancient castle, in the month of August, 1832, was
-held a splendid Congress of Bards, or Eisteddfod, under the munificent
-patronage of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley. It was attended by most of the
-nobility and gentry of the neighbouring counties; and the meeting derived
-peculiar importance from the presence of Her Royal Highness the Duchess
-of Kent, and her illustrious daughter, then Princess Victoria, now the
-Queen of these realms. During several months of that summer, the royal
-party had honoured the Principality with their residence, fixing their
-domicile for the time at Plâs Newydd, the elegant seat of the Marquis of
-Anglesea. A grand regatta in the bay followed the literary and musical
-contests in the castle; and the evenings were agreeably enlivened with
-splendid concerts, balls, and other festivities.
-
-
-Baron Hill.
-
-
-On an eminence behind the town stands this charming residence of the late
-Lord Bulkeley. At his death, it descended to his nephew, Sir R. B. W.
-Bulkeley, Bart. M.P., by whom it is now occupied. It has recently been
-rebuilt and modernised, and is delightfully situated on the declivity of
-a richly-wooded hill, commanding a fine prospect of all the northern
-mountains of Caernarvonshire, of the bay of Beaumaris, and a vast expanse
-of sea. This place has been in possession of the Bulkeley family from
-the date of the second charter of the corporation of Beaumaris, procured
-in the reign of Elizabeth. The house was originally built in the reign
-of James I., for the reception of Henry, the eldest son of that monarch,
-when on his way to Ireland. But his untimely death so much affected Sir
-Richard Bulkeley, the owner, that he gave up his original and magnificent
-plan, and used the part only that was then completed for his family seat.
-The old house was greatly enlarged and improved by its late noble
-possessor. The extensive grounds are finely wooded, and laid out with
-great taste and judgment. The gardens have been extended and beautified,
-and the liberal owner generously allows them to be thrown open for the
-accommodation of the public. Sir R. Bulkeley is deservedly esteemed for
-his efforts to improve the agriculture of his native county, by the
-introduction of modern and scientific culture.
-
-At a short distance east of the house, in a sylvan recess, is the stone
-coffin of the Princess Joan, consort of Llywelyn ab Iorwerth, Prince of
-Wales in 1105. It had originally been deposited in the subjacent
-monastery of Llanvaes, and, on the dissolution of that religions
-establishment, was placed to receive a watering brook, like that of
-Richard III. at Leicester, after the fatal battle of Bosworth field. In
-1812 it was discovered, in its ignoble uses, by Mr. R. Llwyd, author of
-Beaumaris Bay, after being lost for 290 years, when it was removed to its
-present situation by the late Lord Bulkeley.
-
-A few hundred yards distant from Baron Hill is Henllys Lodge, the
-residence of Captain Lewis Hampton, containing a valuable collection of
-curiosities, which any respectable person is at liberty to inspect.
-Contiguous to it is The Fryars, the residence of the late Lady Williams,
-relict of the late Sir R. Williams, Bart., of Nant, Caernarvonshire, and
-mother of Sir R. W. Bulkeley, Bart.
-
-Six miles from Beaumaris is the village of PENTRAETH, delightfully
-situated in the vicinity of Red Wharf. Near it are the mansions of
-Plâs-gwyn, the seat of Lord Vivian, who married Miss Panton, the heiress
-and grand daughter of the late Jones Panton, Esq., and thus became
-possessed of this fine property, which he has greatly unproved; Rhiwlas,
-the seat of the Rev. Gethin Williams; and Red Hill, the seat of —
-Sparrow, Esq. The neighbourhood is worthy of a visit, being the direct
-road to Amlwch.
-
-The church at Pentraeth was thought worthy of an engraving by Mr. Grose,
-the antiquary. The Panton Arms is a good country house of entertainment.
-Not far from Pentraeth, and near the sea-side, is Tre’r Castell, formerly
-the residence of Marchudd, founder of one of the royal tribes of Wales.
-It is now an ancient castellated mansion. It was also the residence of
-Sir Tudor ap Goronwy, who did homage to Edward the second, when Prince of
-Wales, at Chester. On this domain is supposed to have been fought, in
-818, the “sore battle of Llanfaes,” between Egbert, King of the Welsh
-Saxons, and Merfyn Frych, King of Wales. From this place Queen Elisabeth
-received annually a large supply of metheglin or mead, a favourite Welsh
-beverage. Close by is Castell Aber Lleiniog, where are the vestiges of
-an ancient fort, founded by Hugh Lupus and the Earl Hugh of Shrewsbury,
-when they took possession of Anglesea. The neighbourhood, in fact, is
-rich in scenic beauty and historical associations.
-
-
-Beaumaris Bay,
-
-
-Which stretches itself before and on each side of the town forms a
-well-sheltered harbour, and in stormy weather affords security to vessels
-of considerable burthen. The depth of the water near the town is six or
-seven fathoms even when the tide is out; but this deep channel scarcely
-extends more than a quarter of a mile in width. All the rest of the bay,
-for several miles, is left dry at low water, and has the name of Lavan
-Sands. Among the intelligent natives an opinion is prevalent that these
-sands once formed a habitable hundred of Caernarvonshire, and were first
-overflowed during the sixth century.
-
-The sea of the Menai occasionally produces very singular fish. That
-called the Beaumaris Shark sometimes appears; a curious species of
-mussel; and creatures of forms that astonish the fishermen;—
-
- “Strange things come up, to look at them,
- The monsters of the deep.”
-
-This may perhaps account for the marvellous legend, preserved in “The
-Triads of the Isle of Britain,” concerning “the Palug Cat of the Menai.”
-A remarkable whale was captured in this Bay in the spring of 1846, and
-sent to Liverpool for exhibition. The whole shore throughout the
-district is said to be “a mine of fish.”
-
-
-Llanvaes Abbey.
-
-
-About a mile from Beaumaris, near the seat of the widow of late Sir
-Robert Williams, Bart., and not far from the shore, are yet to be seen,
-in the walls of a barn, the poor remains of the house of Franciscan
-friars, founded in the thirteenth century by Llywelyn ab Iorwerth, Prince
-of Wales, still called by the above name. At the dissolution, the
-establishment maintained eight friars, of whom two only were allowed to
-be Welshmen, when the convent and its possessions were sold: they are at
-present the property of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley.
-
-
-Penmon Priory.
-
-
-Two miles north of Llanvaes Friary, stands this ancient and decayed ruin,
-consisting at present of little more than the ruinous refectory and part
-of the church. This was a priory of Benedictine monks, dedicated to St.
-Mary, founded in the sixth century, and re-endowed in the thirteenth by
-Llywelyn ab Iorwerth. At its suppression by Henry the Eighth, the
-revenues were valued at £48 per annum.
-
-
-Priestholm, or Puffin Island,
-
-
-A small island, divided by the narrow channel called the Sound from the
-eastern extremity of Anglesea: its British name, Ynys Seriol, is derived
-from the residence of St. Seriol upon it in the sixth century: the
-compound name of Priest-holm originated in its being the occasional
-retreat of the religious of the neighbouring priory of Penmon. It is
-also called Puffin Island, from its being annually resorted to by these
-birds for the purpose of breeding.
-
-This island will afford a day of sport to the disciple of Colonel
-Hawker—or of information to the industrious antiquary—or amusement to a
-pic-nic party; and indeed, to all visitors in search of health, pleasure,
-or the picturesque, who may be sojourning at Beaumaris. It is nearly a
-mile from the shore, to the edge of which it slopes in verdant turf on
-each side from its lofty central eminence. In shape it resembles a
-lemon, extending a mile in length and half a mile in breadth. Near the
-centre are the ruins of an old square tower, supposed to have been a
-portion of a religious house, once subordinate to the priory of Penmon;
-which, from “the odour of sanctity” thrown around it by popular
-tradition, attracted many devotees, and penitents, and dying persons, to
-its sacred shrine, either as the subjects of pilgrimage or prayer, or to
-obtain interment within its holy walls. Giraldus says, “the island was
-inhabited by hermits, living by manual labour and serving God.” The
-superior reputation which this monastery enjoyed, induced the Welsh
-princes, Llywelyn and David, and (after the conquest of the country)
-Edward the First, to grant to it the revenues of Penmon. Prince Owen
-Gwynedd, who lies buried here, was the founder; and its sanctuary became
-the refuge at once of the oppressor and the oppressed, in that lawless
-age to which it belonged. Little remains to attest the presence of the
-crowds of devout men that thronged it, or of the noble, the wealthy, or
-of the poor, that once were interred in its consecrated cemetery. A
-colony of rabbits has usurped their territory; and swarms of cormorants,
-stormy petrels, curlews, and _puffin auks_, and, even though but
-comparatively seldom seen, peregrine falcons hasten to these shores in
-the summer months, to breed and nurture their young. There is a small
-house on the island for the man who attends a signal staff erected here
-in 1826, to form part of the telegraphic communication between Liverpool
-and Holyhead.
-
-A pleasant aquatic excursion may he made from Garth Point to Puffin
-Island, passing through the picturesque bay of Beaumaris, the distance
-being nine miles.
-
-A melancholy interest attaches to this neighbourhood from a most
-calamitous event which occurred in the bay of Beaumaris, on the night of
-the 17th August, 1831. On the morning of that day, the _Rothsay Castle_
-steamer left the pier-head, Liverpool, for Beaumaris, the number of
-passengers and seamen being between 120 and 140 souls. After passing the
-floating light, stationed about 15 miles from Liverpool, the sea became
-very rough and the wind adverse; and some of the passengers, apprehensive
-of danger, in vain urged the captain, Lieutenant Atkinson, to return.
-Between the Great and Little Ormeshead the vessel was beating about for
-three hours, and soon after passing the latter, night had come on, the
-sea running high, and the tide ebbing. It was near twelve o’clock when
-she arrived at the mouth of the Menai Strait, about five miles from
-Beaumaris. When opposite the tower on Puffin Island, suddenly the steam
-got so low that the engine would not keep the vessel on her proper
-course; and she struck on what is called the spit of the Dutchman’s Bank,
-where she remained immovable till she went to pieces. At least one
-hundred persons are known to have perished, and twenty-one were
-ascertained to be saved.
-
-A strict investigation into the causes of this dreadful calamity was
-subsequently instituted, from which it appeared that the vessel itself
-was unfit for the station; that there were no guns on board to make
-signals of distress; that the captain and mate were in a state of
-intoxication during the time of peril; that there had been great
-mismanagement and obstinacy on the part of the former, and criminal
-negligence in omitting to furnish the vessel with necessary apparatus for
-such an emergency. The most praiseworthy activity is ascribed to the
-gentry and other inhabitants of Beaumaris, as well as the boatmen
-belonging to the bay, in rescuing the surviving sufferers, and providing
-places of decent sepulture for the dead. On this subject, the following
-testimony, from the pen of Lieutenant Morrison, of the Royal Navy, who
-has published a Narrative of the unfortunate wreck, is truly
-valuable:—“The meritorious efforts made by Sir Richard Bulkeley, Bart.
-and other gentlemen of the neighbourhood, to insure respect to the
-remains of the unfortunate sufferers, I believe to have been attended
-with perfect success. Indeed, I saw numerous valuable and portable
-articles which had been saved, and lodged in the hands of the authorities
-of Beaumaris, and which might have been very readily abstracted by the
-finders, to whom they offered great temptation. I was never among the
-inhabitant of North Wales before, and I must observe that the very
-excellent conduct of the lower orders on this occasion forms a strong
-contrast to that I have witnessed on the coasts of Devonshire and the
-south of Ireland.”
-
-The many accidents in this bay at length induced the corporation of the
-Trinity House to erect a lighthouse on the south-westerly point of the
-island, at a part called Trwyn-du, or Black Point, which was finished in
-the course of the summer of 1838. It is a splendid work of art in the
-bell form; and contains more courses of masonry under low-water mark than
-the celebrated Eddystone lighthouse. The light is thrown out to sea by
-means of a strong reflector erected on the opposite or Anglesea coast.
-It is worthy of attention, and visitors will find it a pleasant sail from
-Bangor and Beaumaris.
-
-From April to October, first-class steam-packets regularly arrive from
-Liverpool every afternoon (except Sunday) about five o’clock at the
-Bangor Ferry inn (which has lately been much improved and enlarged), and
-return the next morning between eight and nine o’clock, calling each way
-at Garth Point and Beaumaris. And we may here add that this is the
-cheapest and most interesting marine excursion which can be enjoyed from
-Liverpool.
-
-
-
-BEDDGELERT,
-(_Caernarvonshire_.)
-
-Aber-glaslyn 1½
-Caernarvon 13
-Llanberis 12
-Snowdon Summit 6
-Tan-y-Bwlch 10
-Tre-Madoc 7
-
-Beddgelert, a village most charmingly situated in a beautiful tract of
-meadows, at the junction of three vales, near the conflux of the Gwynnant
-and the Colwyn.
-
-The church is erected on the site of an ancient priory of Augustine
-monks, with which a convent for nuns was also incorporated. Part of the
-arches and clustered columns which supported the nave of the priory are
-still visible in the wall of the church, and there are other remains
-which prove the original religious establishment to have been of
-considerable extent. In 1194 it was endowed with lands by Llywelyn the
-Great; and it is recorded that in those days the prior had fifty cows and
-twenty-two sheep. In 1283 it suffered from fire, and Edward I. repaired
-the damages. In 1535 Henry VIII. bestowed it on the abbey of Chertsey,
-in Surrey; and in 1577 it was made appurtenant to that of Bisham, Berks.
-
-Moel Hebog (the Hawk Hill) rises boldly from the vale in front of the
-village, which takes its name—Beddgelert, or the Grave of Gelert, from an
-affecting tradition, which has been made the subject of an admirably
-pathetic ballad by the Hon. W. R. Spencer. Miss Costello gives this
-romantic legend with her wonted taste and effect:—
-
- “King John had given to Llywelyn the Great, not only his daughter
- Joanna in marriage, but as a prize little inferior, a fine greyhound,
- of superior breed and great beauty, who was wont to take the lead in
- all his expeditions, and to bring down the game in gallant style.
- The usual season of the chase arrived, and the prince, his wife, and
- children had repaired to the hunting-ground in this valley: one day
- Llywelyn set forth, and had not gone far when he discovered that
- Gelert, his favourite hound, had lagged behind; he called him in
- vain, and, out of temper and impatient, he continued his way, and
- occupied himself in his sport, still, however, dwelling with vexation
- on the absence of his constant companion. On his return, as he was
- about to enter his dwelling, he was met by Gelert, who leaped upon
- him and shewed every demonstration of delight. The prince angrily
- drove him off, and, as he did so, remarked that the jaws of the dog
- were covered with blood, that blood was on the floor and on the
- walls—a strange foreboding of evil stole over his mind: his infant
- son had been left in the cradle—no attendant was near—he tracked the
- crimson stairs—they led him to the spot where his child reposed—the
- cradle was overturned, the infant gone, and a pool of blood was at
- his feet.
-
- “Llywelyn allowed himself not a moment’s time for reflection—Gelert
- was fawning beside the couch of his murdered child—his fangs were red
- with gore—he could not doubt but that the wretched animal had torn
- the sleeping babe, and drawing his sword, he plunged it into the body
- of the hound. At this instant he heard a cry—he darted forward,
- removed the confused heap before him, and, struggling beneath, he
- beheld his child uninjured, his tiny hands resting on the body of a
- gaunt wolf, which had been killed by Gelert in his defence.
-
- “What was now left for Llywelyn but remorse and late repentance?—he
- erected a tomb over the remains of the faithful dog, and the spot is
- called ‘the Grave of Gelert’ to this day.
-
- “There is a Welsh adage which alludes to this legend, ‘he repents as
- much as the man who killed the dog’—and this would naturally lead one
- to imagine that the sad tale were indeed true; nevertheless, the same
- is told in many places, and seems originally to have come from the
- far East, where almost all beautiful stories had their birth.
-
- “It is said to be engraven on a rock in Limerick; it is told in an
- old English romance; it is repeated in France; and it is the subject
- of Persian drama!”
-
-Some chroniclers assert, that Prince Llywelyn founded the church of
-Beddgelert to commemorate the preservation of his son, and as some
-atonement for slaying his preserver, the faithful hound.
-
-In a field contiguous to the churchyard, is a large stone, which is said
-to mark the spot where Gelert was buried. Near the stone is a building,
-now used as a cow-house, which is reputed to have been the residence of
-the prince.
-
-There is an excellent inn here, the Goat, recently enlarged and improved,
-not inferior in accommodation to any in Wales. The Caernarvon and
-Tan-y-Bwlch mail coach passes twice a day through the village. Behind
-the old public house opposite is an interesting view of a solemn dell.
-The eye, in surveying this chasm, is relieved now and then by spots of
-verdure, patches of heath, thinly-scattered sheep, and the beautiful
-curvature of the mountain. In the Welsh annals this region is styled the
-Forest of Snowdon. A guide to the many objects of interest in the
-locality may be procured at any time at the Goat inn. When Mr. Nicholson
-traversed this part of the country, the name of the guide was William
-Lloyd, who was also the village schoolmaster, and who thus explained his
-occupation in a placard stuck upon the door of the inn:—“William Lloyd,
-conductor to Snowdon, Moel Hebog, Dinas Emrys, Llanberis pass, the lakes,
-waterfalls, &c. &c.” The name of the present guide is Richard Edwards.
-
-On the road towards Aber-glaslyn, a stone is pointed out by the name of
-the Chair of Rhŷs Gôch o’r ’Ryri, the famous mountain bard, contemporary
-with Owen Glyndwr. He was of the house of Havod-garegog, at the entrance
-into the Traeth Mawr sands, whence he used to walk, and sitting on this
-craggy seat, composed his poems. Among others is a satire on a fox, for
-killing his favourite peacock. He died about the year 1490, and was
-interred in the holy ground at Beddgelert, escaping the vengeance of the
-English, for inspiring his countrymen with the love of liberty, and
-animating them by his compositions into a long and gallant resistance to
-the galling yoke.
-
-The neighbourhood of Beddgelert abounds with objects worthy of the
-tourist’s attention; and of several of these we will now add a few
-particulars.
-
-
-Nant Gwynnant.
-
-
-Turning to the right hand on crossing the bridge leading from the inn,
-you follow up the course of a stream that waters one of the most
-beautiful valleys in Wales. On the left, about half a mile up the
-valley, is a lofty wood-clad rock, called Dinas Emrys, the fort of
-Ambrosius, or Merlin Emrys, a magician who was sent for to this place
-from Caer Merddin (Carmarthenshire) by Vortigern, who was king of Britain
-from 449 to 466. It was to this place that Vortigern retired, when he
-found himself despised by his subjects, and unable to contend longer with
-the treacherous Saxons, whom he had introduced into his kingdom. It is
-probable that this insular rock afforded him a temporary residence, till
-be removed to his final retreat in Nant Gwrtheryn, or Vortigern’s Valley,
-not far from Nevyn, in the promontory of Lleyn. Speed says that
-Vortigern married his own child by Rowena, daughter of Hengist, the Saxon
-prince, and had by her one son.—On passing round the foot of another
-beautiful isolated rock,
-
-
-Llyn Dinas
-
-
-(The Pool of the Fort), a lake about a half to three-quarters of a mile
-in extent, is spread before you. It is entirely surrounded by lofty
-mountains, the tints of which being of a deeper and browner shade than
-the generality of Welsh hills, gives a peculiar richness to the confined
-valley. The road runs close along the shore, overhung by one of the
-magnificent buttresses of Snowdon: to the right the eye stretches across
-the lake to the hills which rise from the water’s edge, above which a
-second tier of mountains appears, the great chain which separates you
-from the vale of Ffestiniog. The river which feeds the lake winds
-through the verdant and undulating grounds which spread themselves, a
-miniature park, between the cottage and the lake. A romantic pass,
-affording space for the river and road only, leads to a valley totally
-different from, though not less beautiful than that of Llyn Dinas: the
-valley forms a bowl among the hills, the bottom is a small grassy plain,
-here and there dotted with trees, through which the river winds; the
-sides are magnificent mountains: it is beauty sleeping in the lap of
-terror.—On the left, the eye is led to
-
-
-Cwm Llan,
-
-
-among the deepest recesses of Snowdonia. The immediate boundary of the
-valley is succeeded by heights rising successively above each other.
-Immediately above this deep and gloomy gorge towers the monarch of hills,
-sublime and terrific in his precipitous height, yet presenting in its
-conical summit, its cairn and landmark, a graceful object, filling up the
-mountainous gap, the sides of which form a suitable frame to this noble
-picture. You follow up the course of the stream, through the same
-enchanting scenery, the road gradually ascending, till you catch through
-the plantations on the left a view of
-
-
-Llyn Gwynnant,
-
-
-stretched below at your feet. This lake and valley are deeply set among
-the loftiest mountains of Wales or England, and form one of the loveliest
-pictures in this country. Two or three gentlemen’s residences render
-this valley cheerful, without destroying its character of seclusion.
-
-Shortly after leaving the lake, the most striking view of Snowdon
-presents itself; you look across the valley on a huge precipice, over the
-edge of which, through a wide sweeping dip in the hill, a very
-picturesque waterfall, Rhaiadr cum Dyli, is projected. Plain indications
-of its source,
-
-
-Llyn Llydan,
-
-
-a highly elevated mountain lake, are apparent; above this rises a dark
-perpendicular wall of rock, towards the summit of which craggy and sharp
-ridges run up, and at the junction the towering peak of Snowdon rises:
-shortly after, you join the road from Capel Curig to Llanberis. Let no
-inconvenience induce the tourist to relinquish this route.
-
-In the vale of Colwyn, and nearly two miles from Beddgelert, is a small
-pool, about the size of a good horse-pond, called
-
-
-Llyn-y-Dywarchen
-
-
-(Or the Pool of the Sod), first celebrated by Giraldus Cambrensis, in the
-account of his journey through Wales in the twelfth century, as
-containing a floating island. This is still in existence, but not more
-than eight or nine yards in length, and evidently appears to be a
-detached piece of the turbery of which the bank is composed. There is a
-small willow-tree growing upon it, and it is carried to and fro by the
-action of the wind and water. Sometimes it remains near the side of the
-pool for a considerable while, and it is so large and firm as to bear
-cattle on it. When it has been dislodged by the wind, a few sheep have
-often been borne by it to the other parts of the bank.—Within two miles
-of Beddgelert is situated
-
-
-Pont Aber-glaslyn
-
-
-(Or the Bridge of the Conflux of the Blue Pool); it is also called by the
-inhabitants the Devil’s Bridge; on which account it has sometimes been
-confounded with the bridge of that name near Havod, in Cardiganshire. In
-approaching this spot from Beddgelert, the rocks on each side become
-incomparably grand. The road winds along a narrow stony vale, where the
-huge cliffs so nearly approach as only just to leave width sufficient at
-the bottom for the road, and the bed of the impetuous torrent that rolls
-along the side of it. Here these lofty rocks, which oppose nothing to
-the eye but a series of the rudest precipices, “raised tier on tier, high
-piled from earth to heaven,” seem to forbid all further access, and to
-frown defiance on the traveller.
-
-The bridge crosses the Glaslyn, and unites the counties of Merioneth and
-Caernarvon. In the span it is thirty feet, and from the water to the
-parapet forty feet high. There is excellent fishing in this river; it
-abounds with salmon and trout. Some years ago, there was a noted salmon
-leap a few yards above the bridge, and in the course of an hour, twenty
-or thirty fish have been seen attempting to spring over the barrier, but
-it is now broken down and fallen into decay. The salmon come up the
-river in the latter end of the year, sometimes as early as the beginning
-of October, in order to deposit their spawn on the sandy shallows, and
-are here very plentiful. The fishery belongs to the Wynn family. When
-the tourist has passed the bridge, and proceeded about one hundred yards
-on the Tre-Madoc road, he will then see the view to perfection. The
-elegant and venerable arch clothed with ivy—the foam of the little
-waterfall almost beneath—the majestic rocks to the right, combining to
-form one of the finest pictures in Wales.
-
-It was probably from this place that Giraldus Cambrensis asserted of
-Merionethshire, that “it was the roughest and most dreary part of Wales,
-for its mountains were both high and perpendicular, and in many places so
-grouped together, that shepherds talking or quarreling on their tops,
-could scarcely, in a whole day’s journey, come together.”
-
-There is very good fishing in this neighbourhood, at a lake called
-Llyn-y-Dinas, about two miles from Beddgelert; the fish are good for the
-table, of the weight of about half a pound; however, trouts of five or
-six pounds weight have been taken. There are two boats kept by Robert
-Roberts; the flat-bottomed one is considered the better and safer for
-angling. Another lake appears, somewhat smaller, called Llyn Gwynnant,
-which has been injured by being netted, but still affords fair sport for
-the angler.
-
-
-
-BETTWS-Y-COED,
-(_Caernarvonshire_.)
-
-Capel Curig 5
-Cerniogau Mawr 9½
-Llanrwst 4
-
-Bettws-y-Coed (or Station in the Wood), a small village, pleasantly
-situated on the Shrewsbury and Holyhead road, not far distant from the
-junction of the Llugwy and the Conway. The church stands in a little
-cemetery in the centre of the vale, enclosed by a few stately forest
-trees, and forms a venerable and interesting object. It contains an old
-monument in memory of Griffith, the son of David Gôch, who was a natural
-son of David, brother to Llywelyn, the last prince of Wales. He died in
-the fourteenth century, and is here represented by a large armed
-recumbent figure in a recess in the north wall. On one side of the
-figure, there is yet left this inscription,—“_Hic jacet Gruffydd ap Davyd
-Gôch_: _Agnus Dei_, _misere mei_.” Within a mile distant is a bridge,
-consisting of a single arch of iron, of 105 feet in the span, and called
-the Waterloo Bridge from the circumstance of its having been erected in
-the same year in which the battle of Waterloo was fought. It carries the
-Holyhead road over the Conway.
-
-Near Bettws-y-Coed is also Pont-y-Pair, a most singular bridge, flung
-over the Llugwy, consisting of four arches, placed on the rude rocks,
-which form most durable piers. These rocks are precipitous, and in high
-floods exhibit to the passenger most awful cataracts below the bridge.
-The scenery beyond, composed of rocky mountains fringed with woods, is
-very striking. The river Conway affords good salmon and trout fishing.
-The remarkably picturesque character of this district is particularly
-attractive to artists who delight to make sketches from scenes of natural
-beauty and grandeur.
-
-
-
-CADER IDRIS,
-(_Merionethshire_.)
-
-Dolgelley 5
-Dinas Mowddwy 11
-Machynlleth 13
-Towyn 15
-
-These distances are computed from the summit of Cader Idris.
-
-The mountain of Cader Idris, in height the second in Wales, rises upon
-the sea-shore, close upon the northern side of the estuary of the small
-river Disynwy, about a mile from Towyn. It proceeds with almost a
-constant ascent, first northward for about three miles, then for ten
-miles further runs E. N. E., giving out from its summit a branch nearly
-three miles long in a south-westerly direction, parallel to the main
-ridge. It is very steep and craggy on every side, but the southern
-descent, especially to the border of Tal-y-llyn lake, is the most
-precipitous, being nearly perpendicular. Its breadth bears but a small
-proportion to its length, a line passing along its base, and intersecting
-the summit, would scarcely equal four miles and a half; and in the other
-parts it is a mere ridge, whose base hardly ever exceeds one mile in
-breadth.
-
-Cader Idris is the beginning of a chain of primitive mountains, extending
-in a N. N. E. direction, and including the Arrans and Arrenigs. It is
-much loftier and more craggy than the slate and secondary mountains which
-surround it. Dolgelley is the place from which the ascent to this
-mountain is usually made.
-
-Several tourists of literary eminence have made the ascent of Cader
-Idris, and have left on record graphic and animated descriptions of the
-sublime views which its summit discloses. Mr. Roscoe says—“The following
-morning promising a fine day, I determined upon making an excursion over
-Cader Idris. This mountain is one of the most lofty in Wales, and forms
-a part of the great chain of hills which runs nearly parallel with the
-coast for many miles, in connection with the Arrans and the Arrenigs, and
-more inland, towards Corwen, with the Berwyn range. Proceeding over the
-hill which leads to Towyn, I reached a small lake, and turning to the
-left, commenced the ascent. After great labour for three or four hours,
-and consequent fatigue, I reached the summit; and the pool Llyn-y-Cae
-shewed itself, situated among high rocks, whose weather-beaten cliffs
-overhang the water; but thick mists, wafted from the sea, prevented an
-extended view. Mr. Aikin has enriched his narrative with a description
-of this grand and picturesque scene he witnessed, the following extract
-from which leaves nothing to be desired:—‘We were now above all the
-eminences within a vast expanse, and as the clouds gradually cleared
-away, caught some grand views of the surrounding country. The huge rocks
-which we before looked up to with astonishment, were now far below our
-feet, and many a small lake appeared in the valleys between them. To the
-north, Snowdon and its dependencies shut up the scene; on the west, we
-saw the whole curve of the bay of Cardigan, bounded at a great distance
-by the Caernarvon mountains, and nearer, dashing its white breakers
-against the rocky coast of Merioneth. The southern horizon was bounded
-by Plinlimmon, the bay of Swansea, the channel, peeping through the
-opening of the Brecon mountains; and on the east, the eye glanced over
-the lake of Bala, the two Arrenig mountains, the two Arrans, and the long
-chain of Berwyn mountains, to the Breiddin hills on the confines of
-Shropshire. Dimly, in the distant horizon, was beheld the Wrekin, rising
-alone from the plain of Salop.’
-
-“At the foot of the mountain is the little village of Tal-y-Llyn, which
-borrows its name from the church at the head of the lake, not unmeetly
-denominated by the people ‘the Charming Retreat.’ The church, a simple
-antique building, is dedicated to St. Mary. The parish extends about
-eight miles, embracing in its circuit a large portion of the mountainous
-chain. The whole vicinity, wood, and hill, and lake—stirred by the
-winds, or clothed with the yellow hues of autumn—wore a highly
-picturesque yet dreary aspect; and I took great delight in exploring a
-number of bold, romantic streams and falls, all within the limits of this
-interesting district. Tal-y-Llyn (the Head of the Lake), with its little
-church, dedicated to St. Mary, stands at the west end of the pool, in a
-long valley lying below the lofty ranges of Cader Idris. Looking
-north-east, the vale is contracted by the mountain bases, with their
-sides broken into a thousand crags, some sharp and conical, and others
-overhanging, as if ready to fall upon the heedless traveller, who wends
-his way beneath their shadows. Pen-y-Delyn (or the Harp Rock) is there,
-bearing a resemblance in its figure to that instrument, with its indented
-and perforated summit, ready to receive the first breath of the morning,
-and to herald the rising beam of the great luminary with the fabled music
-of Memnon; and Llam-y-Ladron too, (or the Thieves’ Leap), the Tarpeian
-Rock from whose fearful top, it is said, the ancient Britons used to cast
-their felon brethren.”
-
-Of the heights of Cader Idris, of Arran Vowddwy, and of the Arrenig Vawr,
-says Mr. Pennant, I am enabled to give a very exact account, by the
-assistance of the ingenious Mr. M. Hughes, of Bala, who assures me that
-the Pen-y-Gader is 2858 feet above the level of Dolgelley-green;
-Arran-Vowddwy, 740 above Llyntegid; and the Arrenig, only 20 yards short
-of Arran; that the fall from the lake to Dolgelley-green, is 180 yards;
-so that the real difference of height between the Cader and the Arran is
-only thirty yards. Two graves, where human bodies were deposited, have
-lately been discovered at the foot of Cader Idris, under two immense
-carnedds.
-
-Within the last few years, for the accommodation of visitors, a cottage
-has been erected on the summit of the mountain, by Richard Pugh, who
-resides at Dolgelley, and who acts in the capacity of a guide. This has
-proved of great advantage to visitors, who were not unfrequently assailed
-by the teeming shower, without an opportunity of shelter; and who had no
-spot for temporary refreshment while waiting for the dispersion of misty
-clouds in order to enjoy the exquisite prospect. Here parties or
-individuals may have all convenient refreshments. The road up the
-mountain on the Dolgelley side has lately been much improved, so as to
-enable ladies and gentlemen to ride up to the very top with the greatest
-ease and safety, which cannot be done on the other side of the mountain
-without great danger. The charge of the guide for conducting a party to
-the summit is five shillings, and the same sum is paid for each of the
-ponies employed in the ascent.
-
-For angling stations, see Dolgelley and Tal-y-Llyn.
-
-
-
-CAERGWRLE,
-(_Flintshire_.)
-
-Chester 12
-Hawarden 6
-Mold 6
-Wrexham 5
-
-Caergwrle was once a flourishing town, but has dwindled into an
-insignificant village. Its parish church is about a mile distant. There
-is good reason for believing that Caergwrle was a Roman station, probably
-an outpost to Deva. Camden discovered here an hypocaust, hewn out of the
-solid rock, six yards and a quarter long, five yards broad, and somewhat
-more than half a yard in height. On some of the tiles were inscribed the
-letters, “Legio xx.” which seem to denote the founders. This is further
-corroborated by the name of the place, “Caer gawr lleng,” (the camp of
-the great legion), Cawr lleng being the name by which the Britons
-distinguished the twentieth legion.
-
-The castle stood on the summit of a high rock. Its present remains are
-very inconsiderable; they are, however, sufficient to indicate that it
-never could have been a fortress of any great importance.
-
-
-Hope, {73} or Queen’s Hope,
-
-
-Is an inconsiderable village, little more than a mile from Caergwrle; it
-also has the remains of a castle, at which Eleanor, queen of Edward the
-First, made some stay on her way to Caernarvon.—Within a short distance
-are the mansions of Bryn Yorkyn and Plâs Têg. Caergwrle and Hope, in
-conjunction with Flint, Caerwys, Rhuddlan, Overton, and Holywell, send a
-member to Parliament.
-
-Angling station:—the river Alun.
-
-
-
-CAERNARVON.
-
-Bangor 9
-Beaumaris 14
-Beddgelert 13
-Capel Curig 17
-Dolbadarn Castle 10
-Ffestiniog 25
-Llanberis 8
-London by Chester 254
-— by Shrewsbury 236
-Pwllheli 20
-Tan-y-Bwlch 23
-Tre-Madoc 20
-
-Caernarvon is the capital of the county, and is one of the largest and
-best towns in North Wales. It name is properly Caer yn Arvon, which
-signifies a walled town in the district opposite to Anglesea. Ar Vôn or
-Ar Môn implies opposite to Mona.
-
- “Caernarvon (we adopt the interesting and elegant description of Mr.
- Roscoe,) is built on a peninsula, formed by the Menai on the west and
- north sides, and by the Seiont on the south. It was formerly
- enclosed by walls, defended by a chain of round towers, which on
- three sides are still nearly entire. In former times there were but
- two gates through which the inhabitants passed, but other openings
- have been more recently made to form communications with the suburbs,
- which are rapidly extending. The town-hall is over one of the
- ancient gates of the town.
-
- A terrace, extending from the quay to the north end of the walls,
- offers a delightful promenade, and presents a variety of interesting
- objects around the port, which is daily rising into greater
- importance by receiving and dispensing the fruits of industry and
- commerce. This terrace, Mr. Bransby observes, possesses the powerful
- recommendation of being always clean, and of soon becoming dry after
- heavy and continued rain. From this walk to behold the sun on a calm
- summer evening, as he goes down ‘in a paradise of clouds’ behind the
- Anglesea hills, is to witness one of the most lovely and glorious
- spectacles in nature. On an eminence called the Twt-hill, near the
- Uxbridge Arms Hotel, is a most extensive and varied panoramic view,
- including part of the Snowdonian range,—the isle of Anglesea, with
- its plains, farms, and villas, backed by the mountains of Holyhead
- and Parys,—the swelling Menai,—and the blue and spacious bay, with
- the sea stretching far beyond.
-
- The harbour and the pier have both undergone very great improvement,
- and ships of considerable burthen can now come up alongside the quay.
- An extensive trade is carried on with Liverpool, Dublin, Bristol,
- Swansea, &c., besides a lucrative coast trade, exchanging the
- invaluable mineral substances of this part of the Principality for
- timber and other articles. Slates are brought here as to the general
- depôt from the quarries about Llanberis and Llanllyfni; and the
- country people of all ranks resort hither, as the best and cheapest
- market, from a considerable distance.
-
- The market-house, erected by the corporation, the Uxbridge Arms
- Hotel, by the Marquis of Anglesea, a number of excellent inns, among
- which stand foremost the Goat Hotel and the Sportsman, with hot and
- cold baths, and a billiard-room, render the modern town as pleasant
- and commodious a place of residence as the most fastidious nabob,—to
- say nothing of hardy Welshmen and pedestrian ramblers,—could possibly
- desire.
-
- Caernarvon is resorted to as a bathing place, and by invalids seeking
- health and amusement, for a temporary residence. There are here the
- advantages of a genteel neighbourhood as well as salubrious air; and
- the rambler in quest of romantic scenery frequently makes this town
- his head quarters. Besides many pleasant walks and rides in the
- immediate vicinity, within the circle of a dozen miles are the Menai
- Straits as far as Bangor, Llanberis, Snowdon, Plâs Newydd, and
- Beddgelert, offering not only inducements to those in search of the
- picturesque, but affording a source of continued gratification to the
- botanist, mineralogist, and antiquary.
-
- The parish church of Caernarvon is at Llanbeblig, and stands in its
- loneliness at the distance of half a mile to the south-east of the
- castle wall. It is a structure of great antiquity, and contains the
- altar-tomb of Sir William Gruffydd (a member of the Penrhyn family)
- and Margaret, his wife. The knight mailed in armour, and the lady in
- the full dress of the age, are sculptured in white marble, and lie
- side by side. English service is performed at a chapel of ease at
- Caernarvon, close to the castle; but in this venerable little place
- the service is conducted in Welsh. The churchyard exhibits the
- peculiarities which give a touching interest to some of the burying
- places of the Principality. Flowers of all colours, but especially
- snowdrops, violets, and pale primroses, display their beauty and
- expend their perfume on the graves of children, and maidens ‘that die
- unmarried,’ while branches of the box, arbutus, and laurel, with
- shrubs of a firm and sombre hue, mark the resting places of the more
- matured in this ‘City of the Silent.’
-
- For its ample and magnificent feudal structure,—almost terrible to
- the eye,—Caernarvon is indebted to the first Edward, who raised this
- colossal castle—as if in derision of the poor tenure of all sovereign
- power—near the ruins of the great Roman station. Soon after his
- conquest, Edward began the stupendous pile, which served less to
- overawe the Welsh than for a magnificent ruin and a modern wonder.
- The remains of Segontium furnished part of the materials, bright grey
- limestone, of exceeding durability, was brought from Twr Celyn, in
- Anglesea, and grit-stone, for the windows and arches, from Vaenol,
- between Caernarvon and Bangor.
-
- Vast, irregular, and more shattered than its exterior grandeur would
- lead us to suppose, this giant-fortress stretches far along the west
- of the town, its broad spreading walls being surmounted, at
- intervals, with octagonal towers. The extent of the courts, the
- gateways, and the towers, bear equal witness to those noble
- proportions which astonish the modern architect, as from its
- Eagle-turrets he commands the whole of its magnificent area, and the
- wide sweeping circuit of its walls.
-
- Opposite the massive Eagle tower, in which the unfortunate Edward the
- Second was born, is the Queen’s Gate, {76} which had two portcullises
- that communicated with a drawbridge across the moat. Over the
- embattled parapet are seen the turrets rising majestically above the
- solitary ruins, bounded on two sides by the water; the third bears
- traces of a large ditch; on the north-east side is a deep well,
- nearly filled up, with a round tower contiguous to it, apparently the
- ancient dungeon. The exterior, and especially the main entrance, has
- an air of forlorn grandeur, blended with massy strength, which must
- at all times excite admiration and awe in the beholder. The area
- within is irregularly oblong, and was divided into an outer and inner
- court. The external walls of the castle, enclosing an area of great
- extent, are nearly as perfect as when they were built, and of
- considerable height and thickness.
-
- The state apartments appear to have been spacious, commodious, and
- handsomely ornamented; the windows wide, and enriched with elegant
- tracery. The form is polygonal, though the exterior of the edifice
- presents a complete square. The floors and staircases are
- considerably injured—in many places wholly demolished. A gallery
- extended round the entire fortress, to serve as a means of
- communication in times of danger, and during a siege. It lay close
- to the outer walls, and was provided with narrow slips, adapted for
- stations, from which to annoy an enemy with arrows or other missiles
- as occasion might require. But its time-worn and ivy-covered
- bulwarks are now fast yielding, like the interior, to the assaults of
- time. Some years ago the Eagle tower, struck by lightning, was split
- down several yards from the summit, giving it still more the aspect
- of a splendid ruin.
-
- It was evening, as I before said, when I first caught sight of the
- castle. The sun’s disk had sunk below the horizon, but his refracted
- rays still played upon that imaginary line ‘which parts the day and
- night,’ casting an attenuated melancholy grace over the crumbling
- fortress. I lingered amongst those ruins till the last vestige of
- light was withdrawn, except such as is bestowed by a clear blue
- firmament emblazoned with burning stars. As I gazed, the phantoms of
- history passed rapidly before my mental eye, with an order and truth
- like unto the facts treasured in her pages, and with a realizing
- illusion that converted me into an actual spectator of the scenes.
- From the topmost point of the Eagle Tower a prophetic voice seemed to
- issue, dispelling the delusion that in those days clung to the hearts
- of the stricken Cambrians, that their own-loved Arthur would again
- appear to raise up their fast-falling nation to its former glory. I
- saw the stern conqueror buckling on his armour, after the Easter
- festival, resolute to conquer or exterminate the defenders of that
- ancient land. I heard the wailing of that dark and stormy night of
- Palm Sunday, when the strong hold of Hawarden fell before his
- victorious sword. I tracked the line of march his countless legions
- took through the deep forest, reaching, in ancient times, from the
- confines of Cheshire to the mountains of Snowdon, leaving Flint and
- Rhuddlan still frowning in their perilled rear; and I looked upon the
- picture of that onslaught at the bridge of Moel-y-don, when an
- English knight was seen buffeting the waves of Menai, and alone
- escaped to tell the tale of national vengeance. The panorama
- shifted, and another pictured page discovered that gallant prince,
- the last of his race who held the sceptre of the Cymri, slowly
- retreating before his haughty foe into the mountain holds hard
- by,—dispirited, though not despairing,—cursed by the priest whom
- Edward brought to curse him,—deluded by the soothsayer, whose
- prophecy bore ‘a double sense,’ too fatally fulfilled in his own
- person,—deserted by many of his friends, and his affianced wife
- basely held a captive in the hands of his enemy. The scene then
- moved; the undaunted hero still struggled with his fate, once the
- sovereign of the whole land, now only lord of the five baronies of
- Snowdon,—goaded by the insults of his mean conqueror,—maddened into
- open war,—betrayed by his base confederate lords,—and perishing alone
- and defenceless in the solitary recesses of a wood. Such was the
- strange eventful story; and that castle which marked the triumph of
- the conqueror, and the subjection of the people—which heard the
- infant cries of the first English prince of this cheated land—which
- opened wide at midnight its gates to troops of warrior-knights
- belonging to an alien country—which rung again and again with the
- rude revelry of that barbarous age, when the pageant and tournament
- of Nefyn was ended,—and which in the days of its strength, passed
- into the hands of foes, and friends, and fratricides,—that castle in
- its gaunt ruins, yet remained as the monument of these records, and
- the tomb in which past ages silently slept.”
-
-A rail-road has lately been formed from Llanllyfni to Caernarvon, a
-distance of more than nine miles, for the purpose of conveying the copper
-ore and slates to the quay.
-
-A most interesting part of the Menai Straits is connected with
-Caernarvon. Tourists may enjoy boating in perfection, either on the
-Tal-y-Foel ferry, the new ferry at Barris, to which a good road has
-recently been made, through the lands of the Marquis of Anglesea, by his
-free permission; or to Aber-mania, at the mouth or gap of the straits,
-and then to Llanddwyn, where are the remains of an old abbey. On the
-opposite side the gap to Aber-mania is St. David’s Fort, a marine
-residence of Lord Newborough, well worth a visit, and where the domestics
-shew the greatest civility. A few miles to the northward, on the east
-coast of Caernarvon bay, is Dinas Dinlle, an old Roman station of
-artificial formation.
-
-Caernarvon is remarkable for having been the first town in the
-principality that enjoyed the privilege of a royal charter, which was
-granted by Edward the First. The government of the place was rested in a
-mayor (who is always constable of the castle), two bailiffs, a recorder,
-burgesses, &c. before the passing of the municipal reform act; now it is
-under the provisions of that act. In conjunction with the boroughs of
-Conway, Criccieth. Nevin, Pwllheli, and Bangor, Caernarvon returns a
-member to parliament. The member in the present parliament is W. B.
-Hughes, Esq.
-
-There are two banks, viz. Messrs. Williams & Co. commonly known as the
-old bank, and which is in connection with the banks of the same firm at
-Chester and Bangor; and a branch of the North and South Wales bank.
-Coaches pass several times each day between this place and Bangor, and
-the mail leaves every morning for Pwllheli through Clynog; and for
-Barmouth, through Beddgelert, Tremadoc, Tan-y-bwlch, and Harlech.
-
-Caernarvon castle is now undergoing considerable repairs, under the
-authority of the Commissioners of Woods and Forests.
-
-It is more than probable, that the town of Caernarvon had its origin in
-the Roman city of Segontium, about half a mile distant, and that it is
-not, as many have supposed, indebted for its name to Edward the First;
-for _the fort in Arvon_, or in the hundred opposite to Anglesea, as the
-name indicates, would apply with equal propriety to the ancient city as
-to this more modern fortress. The town, however, there is no doubt, was
-the creation of Edward, and it was most probably formed from the ruins of
-the old station. The site of the ancient city of Segontium lies about
-half a mile south of Caernarvon, the ancient Roman station mentioned in
-the Itinerary of Antonius. This appears to have been the principal
-station that the Romans had in North Wales, all the rest being only
-subordinate stations. It received its name from the river Seiont, which
-rises in the lower lake of Llanberis, passes under the walls, and
-discharges itself into the Menai near Caernarvon castle. Its form was an
-oblong; and it appears originally to have occupied about six acres of
-ground. Not far hence was the fort which belonged to it: this was also
-of an oblong figure, and stood upon about an acre of ground. The walls
-are at present about eleven feet high, and six in thickness, and at each
-corner there has formerly been a tower. A chapel, said to be founded by
-Helen, daughter of Octavius, Duke of Cornwall, and a well which bears her
-name, are amongst the ruins still pointed out. The chapel was standing
-little more than a century ago. The old Roman road from the station of
-Dinas Dinorwic, in Llanddeiniolen, to Dinas Dinlle, on the shore of
-Caernarvon bay, lay through Caernarvon. Both stations are worth the
-attention of the antiquary.
-
-
-
-CAERWYS,
-(_Flintshire_.)
-
-Chester 23
-Denbigh 7½
-Holywell 6
-London 212
-Mold 12
-St. Asaph 7
-
-Caerwys, formerly a market town, with the parish of the same name,
-contains about 1000 inhabitants, being situated on the high road leading
-from Holywell to Denbigh, through the beautiful Vale of Clwyd. Caerwys
-has the most considerable fairs for cattle, sheep, pigs, and horses, in
-all the country, though its markets have long since failed. The
-market-house still remains, but it has been converted, time out of mind,
-into a dwelling-house. It is close to the cross; to the S. W. the arches
-are yet plainly to be seen, though filled up; and the remains of an erect
-south dial are yet distinctly to be seen in the south wall.
-
-A few hundred yards to the west, is a most beautiful dingle, known by the
-name of Maesmynan Wort, offering a pleasant ramble to the admirer of
-nature and the botanist. Near the place where the brook, which runs
-through this dingle by Maesmynan House, empties itself into the Wheeler,
-was formerly the residence of Llywelyn ab Gruffydd, the last native
-prince of Wales: a cottage, now called Pandy, shews the place where the
-prince resided.
-
-Among the towns of the Principality, this was formerly a place of great
-renown, but its glory has faded away, and nought remains to evince its
-ancient consequence but its name. This is a compound of the two words,
-_Caer_, a city, and _gwŷs_, a summons, notifying its having been a place
-of judicature. The assizes for the county were held in the town of
-Caerwys till about the middle of the seventeenth century, when they were
-removed to Flint; the goal is yet remaining, though converted into a
-dwelling-house, called Yr hên Gaol. This still continues to be one of
-the contributory boroughs for the return of a member to parliament. Mr.
-Pennant, upwards of fifty years ago, describes Caerwys as a “town
-mouldering away with age.” The chief boast of this town was its being
-the _olympia_ of North Wales, the theatre where the British bards poured
-forth their extemporaneous effusions,
-
- “In thoughts that breathe, and words that burn;”
-
-and where the honoured minstrels awakened
-
- “Their harps to soul-enchanting melody,
- And gave to rapture all their trembling strings.”
-
-Here were held the ancient _Eisteddvodau_, or congresses of bards and
-minstrels, where judges presided, appointed by special commission from
-the Princes of Wales previous to the conquest, and from the Kings of
-England after that event. These arbiters were bound to pronounce justly
-and impartially on the talents of the respective candidates, and grant
-degrees according to merit. The bards were formed into a college, the
-members of which had particular privileges to be enjoyed by none but such
-as were admitted to their degrees, and licensed by the judges. The last
-commission granted by royal authority for holding this court of Apollo
-seems to have been in the 9th of Elizabeth, when Sir Richard Bulkeley,
-knt. and certain other persons were empowered to make proclamation in the
-towns of North Wales, that all persons intending to follow the profession
-of bards, &c. should appear before them at Caerwys on a certain day, in
-order to give proofs of their talents in the science of music, and to
-receive licenses to practise the same. The meeting was numerous, and
-fifty-five persons were admitted to their degrees. From this period,
-these meetings were discontinued at Caerwys and throughout the
-Principality: the minstrel ceased to be considered a venerable character
-in England, and our monarchs looked, probably, with equal contempt on the
-bards of Wales. Thus neglected and despised, the Eisteddvodau dwindled
-to nothing, and reposed in oblivion for many years.
-
-Towards the close of the last century, some spirited Welsh gentlemen, who
-had the honour of their national harmony and literature at heart,
-determined to revive a meeting likely to preserve and encourage that
-music and language, the excellence of which has for ages been
-enthusiastically admired by their countrymen. In the spring of 1798,
-their resolution was carried into effect; and an Eisteddvod was held at
-Caerwys, the ancient place of meeting. Since this period, Eisteddvodau
-have been frequent in different parts of the Principality.
-
-
-
-CAPEL CURIG,
-(_Caernarvonshire_,)
-
-Bangor 14½
-Beddgelert 12
-Caernarvon 17
-Cerniogau Mawr 15
-Ffestiniog 20
-Llanberis 10
-Llanrwst 10
-Menai Bridge 17
-
-Capel Curig is most beautifully situated on the London and Holyhead road.
-From its vicinity to Snowdon and other mountains of note in this part of
-the Principality, and to several of the first lakes in North Wales, it
-has been for a long time much frequented by tourists; and since the
-diversion of the great Holyhead road through Nant Ffrancon, and the
-erection of a spacious hotel here by the late Lord Penrhyn, has become a
-place of fashionable resort, and during the summer season is visited by
-many families of distinction. A new line of road from this place to
-Caernarvon, through the pass of Llanberis, at the foot of Snowdon, has
-lately been opened, affording a more direct communication with the
-interior of the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth.
-
-In this vale there is a lovely variety both of wood and water. The name
-is derived from its chapel, dedicated to a Welsh saint called Curig,
-situate a short distance from the inn. He is mentioned in an old Welsh
-poem, which, however, only intimates his order, and nothing more is at
-present known of him.
-
-Capel Curig is situated in a district abounding with mineral wealth. A
-great quantity of calamine has been obtained here, and in the vicinity is
-found the broad primitive rock called serpentine. Near a place called
-Bryn Gwaliau, between Capel Curig and Llanrwst, there are some remains of
-a Roman edifice, a great part of which has been removed for building
-materials: one of the apartments was found by Mr. Lysons to be sixty feet
-by twenty in dimensions, and another eighteen feet six inches square, in
-which latter were several short square pillars of stone, similar to those
-of the hypocaust near the Feathers hotel in Chester.
-
-Behind the inn at Capel Curig westward are two lakes connected by a
-stream, on which a boat is kept, and frequently employed by visitors in
-aquatic excursions. At the foot of the lake there is an ancient rustic
-bridge, from which, as well as from the lake, is a fine view of old
-Snowdon and his proud associates.—At a short distance from the hotel
-southward, rises the mountain of
-
-
-Moel Siabod,
-
-
-Whose height is 2878 feet: it is exceedingly precipitous, especially on
-that side towards Bettws-y-Coed, and the summit is thickly strewed with
-loose fragments. From this commanding station is a most magnificent view
-of the mountains of Snowdonia, of nine different lakes, and “ocean’s dim
-immensity.” The distance from the inn to the summit is about three miles
-and a half.—Beneath Moel Siabod, towards the east, and about five miles
-from Capel Curig, is
-
-
-Dolwyddelan Castle,
-
-
-Said to have been built about the year 500. It is situated on a high
-rock, inaccessible on one side, and consists of two square towers, one 40
-feet by 25, the other 31 feet by 20, and a court in the middle. This old
-ruin, entirely enclosed by mountains, built probably by some of the
-princes of North Wales, though its original founder and the time of its
-erection are unknown. Iorwerth Drwyndwn made this castle his residence,
-and his son, Llywelyn the Great, is said to have been born at this place.
-It was a fortress of considerable importance to the Welsh, but a few
-decaying relics now serve to mark the site of its former power and
-grandeur. Recent investigations render it probable that this was the
-last stronghold in North Wales that held out against Edward the First.
-In the royal roll of expenditure of that period, appear items of payments
-to an earl, a knight, and a squire, for bringing news to the Queen, at
-Rhuddlan, where the army of reserve was stationed whilst Edward was
-pursuing his successes in the Snowdonian mountains, of the reduction of
-this fortress; and the date corresponds with the close of the resistance
-and capture of David, the brother of Llywelyn. The village of
-Dolwyddelan stands within about a mile of the castle, and consists of
-only a few small cottages.
-
-Three miles and a half from Capel Curig, on the left of the road toward
-Bettws, is the celebrated cataract of
-
-
-Rhaiadr-y-Wennol,
-
-
-(Or the Waterfall of the Swallow.) The scenery around this truly
-beautiful and picturesque fall, formed by the little river Llugwy, is
-truly grand; the water at the top is in one body, but soon becomes broken
-into many streams, dashing impetuously over large masses of rock, which
-impede its progress, down a rugged chasm of sixty feet wide at the
-broadest part, The high banks of the ravine are wooded, the trees hanging
-beautifully over the torrent, and the ground is richly carpetted with
-mosses and various wild flowers. From the upper part of the wood, near
-the head of the fall, there is a very good view of the descending flood;
-a path from the high road leads to the fall, and a little wicket gate has
-been placed in the wall on the road side, for the convenience of visitors
-who may wish to obtain a view of this sublime scene, which, although
-contiguous to the road, is so obscured in the wood, that the traveller
-will almost certainly pass it unawares, unless he makes timely enquiry:
-it may, however, be discovered by a summer-house which has lately been
-built on the top of a mountain directly over the fall.
-
-About four miles from Capel Curig, on the Bangor road, is situated
-
-
-Lake Ogwen,
-
-
-From whence issues the river Ogwen. This lake is well stocked with
-excellent trout of a peculiar colour and flavour, surpassing in these
-respects all fish found in the Caernarvonshire lakes; they are of a
-bright yellow cast in the water, though when eaten they have a fine
-salmon colour; they are easily taken with the fly. The surplus water of
-this lake discharges itself at the western end, through a chasm in the
-rocks, tumbling in three noble cataracts down a height of about one
-hundred feet, called the Falls of Benglog, which are concentrated into a
-bed in the luxuriant and beautifully green meadows of
-
-
-Nant Ffrancon,
-
-
-(Or the Beaver’s Hollow), so called from having been the resort of those
-animals. This is a romantic and tremendous glen, destitute of wood, and
-even of cultivation, except the narrow slip of a meadow which lies along
-its bottom. The fantastic piles of rocks which compose its sides, rise
-abruptly from their base, and stretch their barren points into the
-clouds. The Holyhead and London road passes through the whole extent.
-
-In 1685, part of a rock, forming one of the impending cliffs, became so
-undermined by wind and rain, that loosing its hold, it fell in several
-immense masses, and in its passage down a steep and craggy cliff,
-dislodged some thousands of other stones. The largest piece of the
-falling rock continued its motion through a small meadow, and rested on
-the further side of the river Ogwen. In the winter of 1831, another part
-of the rock gave way, when upwards of one thousand tons fell from near
-the summit of Benglog, a little below the Ogwen cataracts; part rolling
-straight across the road, fell into the valley and river at the bottom;
-while another part having acquired a less momentum, rested on the road;
-the intercourse of travellers was for some time impeded, although one
-hundred miners were engaged in clearing the surface of the road. A
-gentleman from the vale of Llanrwst had just passed along in his
-carriage, on his way to Bangor, when the terrific sound of the dissolving
-mountain fell upon his astonished ear.
-
-The mountains at the upper end of this vale form a scene singularly
-grand; on each side the hollow appears guarded by a huge conical rock,
-Trivaen on the right, and Braich-dû on the left. These, with the
-Glyder-vach and the Glyder-vawr, and some other mountains, fill up the
-distance, and apparently close the vale.
-
-Near this place, beside a little gothic cottage, is a small hone quarry,
-Y Trivaen, which received its name from three tall stones standing in an
-upright position on its summit, and from below had the exact resemblance
-of three men. Of these only two remain.
-
-One mile from Ogwen lake, in a deep valley, lies a dark pool, called
-
-
-Llyn Idwal.
-
-
-The gloomy horrors of the surrounding scenery exceed even those of Ogwen;
-the encircling cliffs are overhanging, broken, and dark; in one part the
-whole mountain is rent asunder, and the chasm of Twll dû (or the Black
-Cleft) gapes between the terrific masses. The solitude of Cwm Idwal
-proved favourable to the perpetration of a deed of blood, and it was here
-that young Idwal, the infant heir of Prince Owen Gwynedd, was
-treacherously assassinated, by order of his foster-father Nefydd, to
-whose care his father had consigned him.
-
-Miss Costello gives the following description of this romantic region:—
-
-“We were not induced to linger very long in the slate quarries, being
-more desirous to make ourselves acquainted with the undisturbed nature
-which invited us on the way to Capel Curig.
-
-“The Vale of Nant Ffrancon is wild and stupendous in the extreme; it is
-an extensive marshy valley, filled with peat, whose black masses are
-piled in all directions in stacks; numerous alleys filled with the water
-which drains from it, are cut through the turf on whose surface the
-graceful cotton plant waves its feathery and snowy tresses, covering the
-swampy ground, and lending it beauty; numerous water flowers of bright
-colour give some life to the scene, which would otherwise be
-inexpressibly dreary. Huge masses of crumbling rocks bind in the narrow
-valley, and assume the strangest and most grotesque shapes, as though the
-visions of the Welsh bard, Davydd ap Gwilym, were realized, and
-
- “‘There were in every hollow
- A hundred wry-mouthed elves.’
-
-“Indeed, the famous and dreaded family of the Ellyllon, who are fond of
-coming forth in mist and rain, seemed to have pursued and overtaken us
-just as we had nearly reached the gloomy, dark, and secluded lake of
-Ogwen. The clouds grew darker, and rolled in heavy masses through the
-valley, and down the sides of the hills—a chill and hollow wind rose and
-whistled fearfully along the pass—large drops of rain began to fall, and
-we thought there was no escape from one of those storms so frequent in
-these regions; but the spirits sulked themselves into good humour, and
-did not force us to choose the usual alternative of travellers who fall
-into their power, for they are said to insist on their taking the
-uncomfortable choice of three methods of continuing their journey: to go
-with them ‘above the wind, mid wind, or below the wind:’ the first is to
-be whirled above the tops of the mountains at more than rail-road speed;
-the last to be hurried along, through brakes and briars, against stones
-and amongst bogs; and the middle way, generally preferred by those who
-have experience in the freaks of these elves, is to accompany them at a
-moderate distance in the air just clearing every obstacle.
-
-“We contrived to gain the shore of lake Ogwen unmolested by all the imps
-and demons, who seemed to have come on the wings of the blast from their
-modern retreat on the pedestals of Penrhyn Castle, to visit the haunts
-where they dwelt in days of yore, before every rock was attacked for its
-mineral wealth as it is now. On the borders of this solemn lake,
-however, the miner’s hammer is unheard; all is solitary grandeur and
-gloomy sublimity: mountains are piled on each other, and appear to crowd
-together round the lake, pressing its dark waters into a small space,
-deep and generally still, though ruffled when we saw it, by the rushing
-wind that swept through the hollow of Nant Ffrancon.
-
-“The river Ogwen issues from this lake, and the accumulated waters which
-its rocky basin is unable to contain force their way through a chasm in
-the rocks, and fall with tremendous force in three cataracts, called the
-Falls of Benglog.
-
-“Solemn and silent as Ogwen appears, it is less fearful and solitary than
-another dark lake situated high up amongst the mountains in the vicinity,
-called Llyn Idwal, where, in the early times of Welsh history, it is
-recorded, that Idwal, the infant heir of Prince Owen Gwynedd, was drowned
-by the hand of his foster-father, when
-
- “‘No human ear but Dunawt’s {87} heard
- Young Idwal’s dying scream.’
-
-“The cliffs that encircle this lake are split into a thousand fearful
-shapes, and a mighty chasm yawns between, called Twll dû, which is said
-to be the abode of the unquiet soul of the murderer and the howling and
-exulting demon who torments him for his hateful crime—a crime
-
- “‘Most foul, strange, and unnatural.’
-
-“No bird will ever dip his wing in that lake, nor pause near its waters.
-
-“Nothing can exceed the horror of this spot: the breach in the black rock
-is like that produced by the Sword of Roland in the Pyrenees, but no
-cheering prospect of far lands opens through: here all is dark, fearful,
-and tremendously appalling.
-
-“The Twll dû is sometimes called the Devil’s Kitchen; the waters of the
-lake rush impetuously through its chasm. In memory of the tragedy acted
-here, the fish, of which there was formerly a profusion, were all
-deprived, according to received tradition, of one eye, the left being
-closed: as there are now no fish in the lake, it is impossible to verify
-the truth of this legend.
-
-“This neighbourhood is the chosen abode of demons and strange monsters;
-and once upon a time, it is said, that a hunter pursuing the chase in the
-valleys between these mountains saw suddenly, perched on a rock, an
-extraordinary animal, such as had never before been beheld. It was
-hunched like a buffalo, and was covered with tufts of hair which shone
-like gold. The daring hunter pursued it over every obstacle, till he had
-nearly reached the Twll dû, when he overtook and slew it; but he gained
-little by his exploit, for the animal bellowed so loud that the rocks
-split in all directions; and neither the huntsman nor his prey was seen
-afterwards.
-
-“The pretty inn at Capel Curig is built of slate, walls and roof and
-flights of steps, all of a shining grey, contrasting oddly with its gay
-garden of roses which lies beneath. From this garden is a fine view of
-Snowdon and its lake, with mountain scenery of great sublimity on all
-sides. The graceful bridge over Gwyryd is a beautiful object in the
-distance: while Snowdon, Moel Siabod, and the three sister lakes linked
-together, which extend along this charming valley, lie all before the
-eye.”
-
-
-
-CERIG-Y-DRUIDION,
-(_Denbighshire_.)
-
-Cerniogau 3
-Corwen 10
-Llanrwst 14
-Pont-y-Glyn 4½
-Ruthin 15
-
-This is a pleasant village, so named from its being supposed to have been
-the abode of the Druids. In Camden’s time it was famed for some
-druidical remains. These ancient relics have long since been removed;
-they consisted of _cromlechs_ and _kist vaens_, or stone chests.
-
-At Pen Gwerwyn, a hill about a mile to the east of the village, are some
-inconsiderable remains of a castle, of which tradition says that it once
-belonged to Caractacus. We are told that when he was routed by the
-Romans, he retreated to this castle for safety; but was, with his whole
-family, betrayed to the enemy, and sent prisoner to Rome, where he
-delivered that celebrated speech which is so familiar to all students of
-British history.
-
-
-
-CERNIOGAU MAWR,
-(_Denbighshire_.)
-
-Capel Curig 15
-Cerig-y-Druidion 3
-Corwen 13
-Ruthin 18
-
-Cerniogau Mawr is a hamlet of three or four small houses, in an elevated
-situation, on the London and Holyhead mail-road. Five miles on the road
-to Llanrwst is Gallt-y-Gwy, a terrace of more than two miles long. To
-the east appears the beautiful deep vale of Llanrwst, with Conway in the
-termination.
-
-
-
-CHESTER.
-
-
-Although this city is not strictly within the cognizance of our
-publication, yet its close proximity to North Wales, and the advantages
-which it offers as a starting point from which a tour of the Principality
-may be commenced, warrant us in devoting to it a passing notice. Chester
-abounds with objects of interest to the traveller; and its many antique
-relics of bygone ages never fail to excite the admiration of those who
-take pleasure in the quaint architecture, or historical memorials of
-former times.
-
-Its old walls, its antique rows, its curiously carved and gable-ended
-houses, its venerable cathedral, its solemn towers, its abbey gates, the
-ruined Priory, and the time-worn church of St. John, may be enumerated
-among the more prominent vestiges of its antiquities. While its noble
-castle, its unrivalled Grosvenor Bridge, and the elegant lodge at the
-entrance of Eaton Park, are among the modern attractions which the
-tourist will examine with interest and delight; but to the description of
-which we shall not in this place devote a fuller notice, as they are more
-particularly alluded to elsewhere.
-
-
-
-CHIRK,
-(_Denbighshire_.)
-
-Llangollen 7
-London 176
-Oswestry 5
-Ruabon 6
-
-Chirk is pleasantly situated on the northern bank of the river Ceiriog,
-which, flowing through a small vale of great beauty, here separates the
-counties of Denbigh and Salop, and of course Wales and England. It is a
-very neat and clean village, and contains some highly respectable houses,
-and several substantial and well-built cottages, having been greatly
-improved within the last few years by the late Mrs. Myddelton Biddulph,
-who, on coming into possession of the Chirk Castle estates, pulled down
-several dilapidated buildings, and erected others of modest and uniform
-appearance for her tenants, on more eligible sites. The Holyhead road,
-on both sides the village, has been widened and altered within the last
-few years, so as to avoid the irregularities and windings in its course.
-There are some coal mines in this parish, extensive lime works, and
-several large iron forges, which employ a great number of hands. The
-village has a good church, and in the yard are several remarkably old yew
-trees.
-
-
-Chirk Aqueduct.
-
-
-The Ellesmere canal enters this parish from Shropshire, and is conveyed
-across the vale of Chirk and the river Ceiriog by means of an aqueduct,
-two hundred and thirty yards long, consisting of ten arches, the piers of
-which are sixty-five feet high, and then immediately enters a tunnel two
-hundred and twenty yards long. On emerging from this subterranean
-passage, it proceeds on its course through the parish, and then enters
-another tunnel, soon after which it is carried over the vale of the Dee
-by the stupendous aqueduct of Pont-y-Cyssylltau. About one mile and a
-half to the west of the village is
-
-
-CHIRK CASTLE,
-
-
-proudly situated on an eminence, backed by the Berwyn mountains. It is a
-venerable quadrangular embattled structure, defended by a low massive
-tower at each corner, and another in the centre of the north front, where
-is the principal entrance, under an arched gateway guarded by a
-portcullis, into a square area of considerable dimensions, round which
-the various apartments are ranged: on the east side of this area extends
-a low embattled corridor, leading into the principal apartments, which
-were greatly altered, modernised, and embellished by the late Mrs.
-Biddulph, within the last few years; but the old entrance to the hall is
-by a flight of steps on the north side of the area. The picture gallery,
-at the south end of which is the chapel, is 100 feet in length by 22 in
-width, and contains some good portraits and other paintings.
-
-Chirk castle is supposed to have been built in the year 1013, and was an
-extremely strong fortification. The front is about 250 feet; and two
-persons abreast may parade the battlements with ease. It was besieged by
-the parliamentary forces, and considerably battered by the cannon of
-Cromwell. The repairs cost £80,000.
-
-The park is extensive, and disposed with picturesque effect, the
-inequalities of its surface, and the declivity of the hill extending
-behind it and towards the north, having afforded a favourable scope for
-the arrangement of the trees and plantations. Near New Hall, which is
-described as an old seat of the Myddeltons, rebuilt many years ago as a
-farm-house, and surrounded by a moat, at the entrance into the park from
-Llangollen and Wrexham, stands a pair of iron gates, of the richest, most
-delicate, and exquisite workmanship, designed and executed by a common
-blacksmith.
-
-The summit of the castle commands a wide expanse of great beauty and
-magnificence, offering to the naked eye an uninterrupted view into
-seventeen different counties. The river Ceiriog runs on the west side of
-the castle, through a deep and picturesque valley, remarkable in history
-as the scene of a sanguinary conflict in 1165, between the forces under
-Henry the Second and those of the Welsh under their brave Prince Owen
-Gwynedd, when the latter obtained a decisive victory, and compelled the
-Saxon monarch to seek safety in a retreat to his own territories.
-
-In this neighbourhood are many ancient fortifications, the most
-noticeable of which is part of Offa’s dyke, thrown up as the boundary
-between the ancient Britons and the Saxons in 763.
-
-This fine estate has been in possession of the Myddelton family since the
-beginning of the seventeenth century; the present possessor is Colonel
-Robert Myddelton Biddulph, Lord Lieutenant of Denbighshire, paternally
-descended from the Biddulphs of Ledbury, in Herefordshire.
-
-One mile below the village of Chirk is also
-
-
-BRYN KINALLT,
-
-
-the elegant seat of Lord Dungannon. It is delightfully situated on an
-elevation, and surrounded by extensive and beautiful plantations.
-
-
-
-CLYNOG,
-(_Caernarvonshire_.)
-
-Caernarvon 10
-Llanllyfni 6
-Pwllheli 10
-
-This beautiful village is situated on the turnpike-road, about
-equidistant between Caernarvon and Pwllheli. It has a remarkably fine
-gothic church, the tower of which rises very beautifully from among a
-verdant cluster of noble trees.
-
-St. Beuno, the reputed uncle of St. Winifred, erected the church and a
-grand mausoleum, now called St. Beuno’s chapel, which communicates with
-the church through a dark vaulted passage of six yards. In this chapel
-the remains of the pious founder, who lived in the seventh century, were
-deposited, and here also was his saintly niece interred. Her effigy in
-stone, mutilated like an Egyptian mummy, is still to be seen at this
-sacred edifice.
-
-About a hundred yards from the church, adjoining the turnpike-road, is
-St. Beuno’s well, eight feet square, inclosed by a wall eight feet high.
-This well was much famed for healing the sick, and particularly for
-curing the rickets in children. Within the last fifty years, however,
-the well has ceased to attract so many devotees, though no doubt can
-exist as to the sanative virtues of its waters.
-
-In the south-east corner of the church, near the altar-table there is an
-old wooden chest, belted with iron, and fastened to the floor, called
-“Cŷff Beuno” (Beuno’s chest), which was originally placed there to
-receive the offerings of money from the devotees of the saint, who
-repaired there for comfort and healing.
-
-Between Clynog and Caernarvon is Glynllifon, the seat of Lord Newborough.
-It was recently destroyed by fire, and is now rebuilt.—Near the coast is
-Dinas Dinlle, a Roman station, 30 acres in extent, supposed to have been
-artificially raised by the soldiers of Agricola.
-
-Rhaiadr Dibyn Mawr is a waterfall among the mountains, distant about two
-miles from Clynog.
-
-
-
-CONWAY,
-(_Caernarvonshire_.)
-
-Aber 9
-Abergele 12
-Bangor 14½
-Caernarvon 24
-Llandulas 9
-Llanrwst 12
-London 236
-Penmaen Mawr 6
-
-This is one of the most interesting and picturesque towns in North Wales.
-The approach to the town from the Denbighshire side of the river is
-remarkably interesting, and presents a fine view of the noble castle and
-the beautiful suspension bridge, with the adjacent mountain scenery,
-forming a glorious panorama of surpassing loveliness and sublimity. The
-pearl fishery of the Conway, which even yet, though shorn of its former
-importance, affords employment to several poor families, was celebrated
-in the time of the Romans. Pliny says that Julius Cæsar dedicated in one
-of the temples of Rome a breastplate set with British pearls, probably
-from this fishery. And in comparatively modern days, one of these
-pearls, presented to the Queen of Charles the Second by Sir R. Wynne, was
-honoured with a place in the royal crown, where probably it yet shines,
-in testimony of the loyalty of the Welshman. The British pearls are
-found in a shell-fish, called by Linnæus _myd margaritefera_, the pearl
-muscle, peculiar to stony and rapid rivers.
-
-The port of Conway is a dry harbour, frequented by a few coasting
-vessels; and the river is navigable up to the village of Trefriw, which
-is about twelve miles from its mouth. A quay extends along the east side
-of the town wall. The principal inns are the Castle and the Newborough
-Arms.
-
-The castle, built in 1284, under the eye of Edward the First, by the
-architect, it is supposed, whom he employed in the erection of
-Caernarvon, is very justly regarded as one of the most beautiful
-fortresses in a country distinguished for the splendour and magnificence
-of its military structures. Though more extensive and better preserved,
-it somewhat resembles the castle of Falaise, in Normandy. Its base,
-however, is less wooded, and there is no brawling streamlet leaping, as
-there, from rock to rock, at its foot; but instead, a broad, majestic
-river, and a creek full at high water, swoop round two of its sides. The
-other two face the town. Within the walls are two spacious courts; and
-the external line of the fortifications contains eight lofty towers, each
-with a slender turret, singularly graceful and elegant in form, springing
-from its summit.
-
-The great hall on the right measures 130 feet long and 30 broad, and is
-lighted by six lancet-shaped windows, opening out upon the creek, and
-three pointed windows, of exquisite tracery, looking towards the ample
-court. Eight Gothic arches, four of which remain entire, supported the
-roof of this magnificent apartment. A lofty Norman arched window at each
-end, and two broad carved fire-places, completed the architectural
-decorations and appearances of the hall. The spacious hall was the scene
-of the Christmas revelries to which Edward and his queen invited the
-English nobility and their high-spirited dames, while the monarch was
-forging the chain that was for ever to enslave the prostrate
-Principality. The walls, on all sides, are covered with a green drapery
-of luxuriant ivy, and a meadow of grass lies in the open area of the
-courts. The warder’s duty is supplied by a whole tribe of crows, whose
-solemn parley is heard the instant a stranger’s foot approaches the
-domain they have usurped; and the ivied walls are nearly alive with
-blackbirds, and birds of all colour, whose notes resound for the
-live-long day throughout these otherwise deserted ruins. Two entrances,
-both contrived for security, led into the fortress; one by winding narrow
-stairs, up a steep rock, from the Conway, and terminating in a small
-advanced work before one of the castle-gates, covered by two round
-towers—the other towards the town, protected by similar works, with the
-addition of a drawbridge over a broad moat.
-
-Notwithstanding its grandeur and importance, this castle makes no great
-figure in history. Soon after its erection, the royal founder was
-besieged in it by the Welsh, and the garrison nearly reduced to an
-unconditional surrender by famine. Finally, however, they were
-extricated from their perilous situation by the arrival of a fleet with
-reinforcements and provisions. In 1399, Richard the Second, then in
-Ireland, commanded the troops, raised in his behalf against the haughty
-Bolingbroke, to assemble at Conway, and their numbers were considerable;
-but the vacillation and feebleness of purpose of that monarch induced
-many of them to abandon him on his arrival; yet the remainder was still
-sufficient to have made head against the usurper, had not the king, who
-feared to fight his own battles, basely abandoned his followers, and
-rushed blindly into the snare laid for him by his enemies. During the
-civil wars, Conway Castle was at first held by Archbishop Williams for
-the king; but the warlike churchman, being superseded by the fiery Rupert
-in the command of North Wales, went over in dudgeon to the republican
-party, and personally assisted the gallant General Mytton in the
-reduction of the castle. While the republic flourished, this noble
-fortress was suffered to retain all its ancient grandeur undiminished;
-but on the restoration, a grant having been made of it, by the Stuart, to
-the Earl of Conway, its new possessor ordered his agent to remove the
-timber, iron, lead, and other valuable materials, and send them to
-Ireland, ostensibly for his master’s service, though it is generally
-supposed they were intended for his own use. A suitable fate attended
-this desecration of one of the finest structures of antiquity, the
-vessels which conveyed the materials being wrecked, and the whole of the
-property entirely lost.
-
-This ancient castle is the fictitious scene of the drama of the _Castle
-Spectre_, and of _The Bard_ of Gray.
-
-The suspension bridge, by Mr. Telford, is constructed on the same
-principle as that of the Menai, though on a smaller scale, and presents
-an appearance singularly elegant, lying at the foot of the antique
-castle, and surrounded by scenery of the most picturesque description.
-It is 320 feet in length between the supporting towers, and 18 feet above
-high-water mark. The chains on the western side pass upwards of 50 feet
-under the castle, and are fastened in the granite foundations on which it
-is built. On the farther side they are bolted into an insular rock,
-which rises in the bed of the river, and forms the strait through which
-the gushing waters pass on their way to the sea.
-
-The piers of the bridge, and the toll-house at the western extremity, are
-built in strict keeping with the architecture of the castle. An
-embankment, formed of hard clay, faced with solid masonry of stone, and
-stretching from the insular rock to the western shore of the county of
-Denbigh, a length of 671 yards, with a breadth of 30 feet, and an extreme
-elevation of 54 feet, exhibits one of the finest and firmest _chaussées_
-in the world.
-
-The church, though ancient, contains scarcely anything worthy of notice,
-except the following inscription, engraved on a stone in the nave of the
-building, which, though found in Pennant and other tourists, is so
-curious as to deserve repetition: “Here lyeth the body of Nicholas
-Hookes, of Convey, gentleman, (who was the forty-first child of his
-father, Wm. Hookes Esq. by Alice, his wife,) the father of twenty-seven
-children, who died the 27th day of March, 1637.” In the market-place is
-an old building called Plâs Mawr, which was erected more than two
-centuries ago. It is deserving the notice of the antiquarian. The town
-is surrounded by a very thick wall, strengthened by twenty-four towers,
-most of which remain in tolerable preservation.
-
-Miss Costello seems to have been thoroughly enraptured with Conway, of
-which she says, “I think no description, however enthusiastic, can do
-justice to one of the most romantic and interesting spots that exists
-perhaps in Europe. Although the modern bridge, which carries the road
-across the river to the castle walls, looks, as it is of course, of a
-very different date from the antique structure, yet there is something so
-singular, so beautiful, and so aërial in a suspension bridge, that it can
-scarcely be thought out of character with the Moorish-looking towers and
-turrets to which it leads, which are as light and graceful as itself, in
-spite of their immense strength and power. With all the legends of
-supernatural buildings with which Wales abounds, it would not be
-difficult for the imagination to conceive that the Genii threw these
-delicate chains over the wide space that divides the castle from the
-opposite rocks, and thus obtained a triumph over the giant who kept the
-fortress. Both near and at a distance it has a beautiful effect, and is
-even more graceful than the surprising work over the Menai Straits.
-
-“The castle, although on the shore of the broad river, which is here, at
-high water, half a mile wide, stands on a lofty rock, which forms the
-strong foundation of the fabric, and defends the town, which must however
-have been well capable of defence in itself, to judge by the huge walls
-which surround it, and which are still entire, and the enormous towers
-placed from distance to distance along their whole extent. The shape of
-the town is fancifully said to resemble a Welsh harp, to the form of
-which it really has much affinity; and as there are no suburbs nor a
-single straggling house beyond the allotted precincts, it is plainly
-defined and has a peculiarly striking aspect, quite unlike that of any
-other town I ever saw.
-
-“In all lights and from all points the castle looks well: but the best
-view of it is perhaps from the opposite shore, where all its towers, and
-battlements, and minaret turrets, come out in great relief, particularly
-with a sunset sky behind them, when they stand forth most gorgeously.
-With the river full of water, and the sun going down red and glowing, as
-we saw it the first evening we arrived, nothing can be conceived more
-magnificent than the scene:
-
- “‘Seem’d all on fire that castle proud,’
-
-“with crimson and golden flames issuing from the lofty, dark walls. But
-when we beheld it in the morning, shining white, with the blue sky for
-its background, we could not decide at which hour it was most admirable;
-and again, whether by the light of a brilliant moon the mighty fortress,
-whose rents and defacements the favouring shade concealed, did not appear
-after all to the greatest advantage. * * *
-
-“We were so delighted with the extreme beauty of the castle, and the
-quiet of this simple place, that we remained there ten days, in order to
-enjoy frequent strolls amongst the ruins, and visit some of the most
-interesting places near.”
-
-We fully concur in the glowing encomiums which have been passed by the
-most intelligent tourists on the locality of Conway, which is doubtless
-one of the most attractive and interesting spots in the Principality.
-
-From Conway, Mr. Bingley, the celebrated author, made an excursion round
-
-
-Creiddin,
-
-
-a commot or hundred of Caernarvonshire, situated upon the side of the
-river opposite to Conway, and forming a considerable promontory into the
-Irish Sea. After crossing the river, and proceeding along the shore for
-about half a mile, the first object of attraction is
-
-
-Diganwy,
-
-
-or Dinas Gonwy (or the Fort on the Conway), called by the common people,
-“Y Faer dre,” and by the English, Gannoc. The ruins of the ancient
-castle are situated on the summit of two small hills, near the shore. At
-a short distance is a circular watch-tower, said to have been built some
-time in the latter part of the seventeenth century.
-
-Mr. Bingley next crossed the flat, and under the S.W. side of Llandudno
-rock, passed the shell of a large mansion, which some centuries ago was a
-palace belonging to the Bishop of Bangor; thence along the steep and
-slippery sides of the elevated down of Llandudno, for about two miles to
-the end of the promontory. Here the rocks are for the most part
-perpendicular, of amazing height. Many rare plants are found in this
-district.
-
-About a mile from the N. E. side of the promontory is Llandudno church;
-and at a short distance is Eglwys Rhôs, celebrated as the last refuge of
-Maelgwyn Gwynedd, who fled hither to avoid the _vâd velen_ (or yellow
-fever) which raged over a great part of Europe.
-
-Not far distant is GLODDAETH, one of the seats of the Hon. E. M. Ll.
-Mostyn, built by his ancestor, Sir Roger Mostyn, Bart. in the reign of
-Queen Elizabeth. The walks of Gloddaeth are remarkably beautiful. The
-house was famed for its library of ancient manuscripts, chiefly Welsh,
-which has been removed to Mostyn Hall. At the distance of a mile is
-BODYSGALLEN, the seat of Miss Mostyn. It is a place of great antiquity;
-the situation is commanding, and finely shaded by venerable woods.
-Archbishop Williams, a native of Conway, who succeeded the illustrious
-Lord Bacon in the office of Lord High Chancellor of England, died at
-Gloddaeth, A.D. 1650.
-
-Another excursion made by Mr. Bingley was up the vale of Conway, leading
-on the road to Llanrwst. Having passed the village of Gyffin, he found
-the vale of Conway to afford many very interesting prospects. CAER RHUN
-(the Fort of Rhun) lies at the distance of five miles. It is a charming
-little village, on the western bank of the river, surrounded with wood.
-To this site has generally been assigned the ancient Roman Conovium. In
-the summer of 1801, the late Rev. H. D. Griffith had many apartments
-cleared, where were discovered several broken vases, dishes, &c. From
-the road, near the bridge, called Pont Porthlwyd, about eight miles from
-Conway, high up the mountain on the left, is a waterfall of very
-considerable height, called in the neighbourhood Rhaiadr Mawr (the great
-waterfall.) Mr. Bingley ascended along a winding path, which conducted
-him to the bed of the river, near the station, whence he saw it to the
-best advantage. The water runs from a pool among the mountains, called
-Llyn Eigiau. He pronounces this waterfall the grandest and most
-picturesque of any he had seen in North Wales.
-
-For angling station, see Llanrwst.
-
-
-
-CORWEN.
-(_Merionethshire_.)
-
-Bala 12
-Chester 33
-Denbigh 20
-Holyhead 67
-Llangollen 10
-London 193
-Ruthin 12
-Pentre Voelas 15
-
-Corwen (the White Choir) is a small market-town on the London and
-Holyhead road, situated at the foot of the Berwyn mountains, on the bank
-of the Dee. The population (2199) is principally employed in
-agriculture. There is a good inn here, exhibiting the gigantic features
-of Owen Glyndwr, the renowned and formidable opponent of Henry the
-Fourth.
-
-Within the church, under an arch on the north side of the altar, there is
-a very ancient coffin-lid, in high preservation, bearing the following
-inscription, “Hic jacet Jorwerth Sulien, vicarius de Corvaen; ora pro
-eo.” There is also a fine cross fixed in a circular stone to the west of
-the steeple. The name of Corwen, corrupted from Corvaen, is probably
-derived from the cross: _cor_, signifying a circle, and _maen_, which is
-changed into _vaen_ when joined with _cor_, is The Stone or Cross in the
-Circle.
-
-The house of the celebrated Owen Glyndwr was situated in this parish, but
-not a vestige of it is now left: the site is marked by a clump of fir
-trees, on the left of the Llangollen road, about three miles from Corwen.
-At Rhug, within a mile and a half of the town, stands the elegant seat of
-Colonel Vaughan.—Rhagatt, the mansion of Edward Lloyd, Esq., is also
-situated in the parish, and within two miles of the town.
-
-The roads in this district are excellent; the Shrewsbury and Holyhead
-mail runs through the town. There are also two good lines of road hence
-to Bala; that by Llandrillo leads through the vale of Edeyrnion, which is
-one of the most beautiful in Wales, the road very excellent, with
-scarcely a hill in its course; the other by the Druid, 12 miles, commands
-a very fine view of Bala lake, and the surrounding hills. There is
-likewise a very good road, 12 miles, to Ruthin.
-
-Upon the Berwyn mountains, behind the church, is a place called Glyndwr’s
-Seat, whence is a most charming and extensive prospect, which may be
-reached without fatigue. The rich and delightful vale of Corwen expands
-beneath, with the Dee in the centre. Here Glyndwr might view nearly
-forty square miles of his own land.
-
-Near to Corwen is the site of an ancient British encampment, called Caer
-Drwyn; it is on the summit of a hill, and protected by a circular wall,
-about one mile in circumference: and within are the ruins of a circular
-fort. It is supposed to be one of the chain of posts from Dyserth to
-Cynwyd, and formed in olden times a stronghold. Owen Gwynedd occupied it
-in the days of Henry the Second.
-
-The tourist remaining at Corwen, who has any relish for angling, may
-readily obtain all the necessary tackle in the town, at a low charge, and
-will find good fishing between Corwen and Llan-St.-Ffraid bridges, two or
-three miles, and at Llandrillo, about five miles from Corwen.
-
-This district was visited by a most desolating flood, caused by heavy
-rains, in the summer of 1846.
-
-
-
-CRICAETH,
-(_Caernarvonshire_.)
-
-Beddgelert 11
-Caernarvon 20
-London 240
-Pwllheli 8
-
-Cricaeth, a little borough town, contributory to Caernarvon, with 811
-inhabitants, is very irregularly built. Except the remains of its small
-castle, it contains nothing which can claim the attention of the
-traveller. This ruin stands on a rising ground, at the end of a long
-neck of land, jutting into the sea. The entrance into it is between two
-round towers; the others being all square. Edward the First is said to
-have founded this castle; and it was once the residence of
-Howel-y-Fwyall, who captured the king of France at the battle of
-Poictiers. It is stated that the Welsh warrior struck off the head of
-the king’s horse with a battle-axe, and then secured the monarch. The
-event is thus recorded by one of the native bards:—
-
- “Pan roddodd
- Y ffrwyn ymhen Brenin Ffrainc.”
-
-The Black Prince made Howel constable of this castle, granting him a
-guard of eighty yeomen at the royal charge, and a mess of meat to be
-served up daily before his pole-axe.
-
-The church, dedicated to St. Catherine, is a spacious structure, but in a
-very neglected state.
-
-From the eminence on which the castle stands, is a beautiful view across
-Cardigan bay towards Harlech, where is seen its fine old castle, backed
-by the high and distant mountains of Merionethshire.
-
-
-
-DENBIGH.
-
-Abergele 13
-Chester 28
-Conway 25
-Corwen 20
-Holywell 14
-Llanrwst 22
-London by Chester 214
-— by Shrewsbury 206
-Mold 16
-Ruthin 8
-St. Asaph 6
-Bodfary 4
-
-Denbigh, the capital of the county, is situated on the declivity of a
-craggy hill, in the vale of Clwyd. This place was originally named by
-the Welsh Castell Caled-Vryn-yn-Rhôs (the Castle on the Craggy Hill in
-Rhôs), from the prominent situation of the castle in the ancient
-territory of that name. By the parliamentary returns of 1841, the
-population was 3405. The two principal inns are the Bull and the Crown.
-Denbigh was formerly accounted a place of great importance, while its
-castle and walls were entire; and, about the middle of the sixteenth
-century, it was thus celebrated by Churchyard, the poet, in his “Worthies
-of Wales:”—
-
- Denbigh, now appeare, thy turne is next,
- I need no gloss, nor shade, to set thee out;
- For if my pen doe follow playnest text,
- And passe right way, and goe nothing about,
- Thou shalt be knowne, as worthie well thou art,
- The noblest soyle that is in any part;
- And for thy seate, and castle do compare,
- With any one in Wales, whate’er they are.
-
-The town is picturesquely situated on the side of a steep hill, and the
-noble ruins of the castle on its summit greatly contribute to its
-venerable appearance. Denbigh consists of three principal, and several
-smaller streets and lanes, and is well paved and lighted, but only
-scantily supplied with water, which is brought from several springs, each
-at some distance from the more respectable portions of the town. This
-inconvenience is much increased during a continuance of dry weather, at
-which time the wells occasionally become exhausted, excepting that termed
-the Goblin Well, situated at the foot of the hill on which the castle is
-built; this is so copious as to supply a considerable portion of the
-town, but the labour of carrying the water up the steep ascent is very
-great. Connected with this spring is a cold bath. The environs abound
-with beautiful and richly varied scenery. The land in the vicinity is
-rich, and in a high state of cultivation; and in the neighbourhood are
-numerous splendid seats and elegant villas, inhabited by opulent
-families, who have selected Denbigh for their residence on account of the
-advantages of its situation.
-
-The ancient parochial church, dedicated to St. Marcellus, and now in a
-very dilapidated condition, is situated in the open valley, at
-Whitchurch, {102a} about a mile from the town, from which place the
-rectory was transferred by act of parliament to Denbigh, which was made
-the head of the parish. In the porch of this church are two monumental
-brass effigies, in a kneeling posture, of Richard Myddelton, {102b} of
-Gwaunynog, governor of Denbigh Castle in the reigns of Edward VI., Mary,
-and Elizabeth; and of his wife Jane, both of whom were here interred. In
-the body of the building there is an ill-executed mural monument to the
-memory of the learned Welsh antiquary, Humphrey Llwyd, of Foxhall, near
-Denbigh, who is represented as kneeling beneath a range of small arches,
-and in Spanish costume. There is also a large altar-tomb to the memory
-of Sir John Salusbury and his lady, the former of whom died in 1578. A
-neat mural monument in the western wall has been erected, by the
-Gwyneddigion Society in London, to the memory of Thomas Edwards, of Nant,
-commonly called Twm o’r Nant, the celebrated “Cambrian Shakspere,” who
-died on the 3rd of April, 1810, at the age of 71, and was interred in the
-churchyard.
-
-All the parochial duties are now performed at the chapel of St. Hilary,
-within the walls of the castle, with the exception of funerals, which
-still take place at Whitchurch, there being no cemetery attached to the
-former. The inhabitants, early in 1838, realized a handsome subscription
-to erect a new church, so as to be more convenient, in a contiguous part
-of Denbigh parks, the site of which was liberally offered by Captain
-Mostyn, R.N. The first stone was laid on the coronation-day of our
-beloved sovereign, Queen Victoria. There are places of worship for
-Baptists, Independents, Calvinists, and Wesleyan Methodists. The town
-also contains a free grammar-school for twenty boys; a blue-coat charity
-school, on the foundation of which are twenty-four hoys; a national
-school, in which eighty-six boys and one hundred girls are educated.
-
-Denbigh has a good town-hall, a dispensary, a reading room and a Welsh
-literary society. Its chief manufactories are gloves and shoes; the
-market is held on Wednesday and Saturday. There is also a branch of the
-North and South Wales Bank here. Denbigh is the chief of the
-contributory boroughs that send one member to parliament: the present
-M.P. is Townshend Mainwaring, Esq., of Marchwiel.
-
-It is a remarkable circumstance that no specific provision for the insane
-poor has been made in any part of North Wales, although the melancholy
-records of those afflicted by the loss of reason, prove that the Welsh
-are no more exempt from that severe visitation than the mixed races known
-as Anglo-Saxon. This circumstance excited the attention of the
-philanthropic Mr. Ablett, of Llanbedr, who has most generously presented
-twenty acres of land, in the immediate vicinity of Denbigh, for the site
-of the building and grounds of an institution to be called the North
-Wales Lunatic Asylum, and a subscription amounting to upwards of £6000
-has been realized. The estimate for one commensurate to the wants of
-this part of Wales, is from £12,000 to £15,000, and it is proposed that
-the rest of the fund shall be contributed by the counties, in whom the
-management of the institution shall be vested.
-
-
-The Castle
-
-
-is situated on the summit of the Caled-Vryn, an isolated limestone rock,
-rising abruptly to the height of two hundred and forty feet from the
-western boundary of the Vale of Clwyd, and incloses an area of
-considerable extent; the principal entrance is on the north, under a
-lofty and magnificent arch, which is nearly entire, and flanked by two
-large towers, now in ruins; above it is a niche, in which is a robed
-figure of the founder, Henry Lacey, Earl of Lincoln, in a sitting
-posture; the whole of the rooms and towers are in a state of the utmost
-dilapidation. The citadel is surrounded with walls, a mile and a quarter
-in circumference, which inclose the whole of the ancient town: the
-principal entrance is on the north-west, and is defended by two majestic
-towers, which are nearly entire; from these the walls extend round the
-brow of the hill, on the most elevated and precipitous parts of which
-numerous lofty towers have been erected, forming together one of the
-strongest bulwarks in the kingdom. Within these walls are the ruins of
-the church or chapel, founded by the Earl of Leicester; and the chapel of
-St. Hilary, formerly appropriated to the use of the garrison, and now the
-parochial church.
-
-The walls inclose a considerable area, now covered with grass, in which
-horses and cattle are depastured. Within the walls of the fortress are
-numerous cottages, which materially diminish the interest commonly
-excited by such extensive ruins; and on the south-west front of the
-castle, and on the boundary wall on this side, are an extensive terrace
-and bowling-green, commanding one of the richest and most delightful
-views of the fertile Vale of Clwyd, embracing the whole of the eastern
-portion of this beautiful and finely varied tract, terminated by the
-ocean at Llandudno bay, and on the south by the whole range of Clwydian
-mountains, with their numerous camps and tumuli. On this delightful spot
-the congress of bards and minstrels, called the grand Eisteddfod, was
-held on the 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th days of September, 1828: it was
-honoured by the presence of his royal highness the Duke of Sussex, and
-most of the nobility and gentry of the surrounding country. The
-bowling-green, in the midst of the ruins, is well worth a visit; it is
-laid out with considerable taste.—Within two miles of Denbigh is
-
-
-Gwaunynog,
-
-
-which was visited by Dr. Johnson, during his residence with Mrs. Piozzi:
-the estate was at that time in the possession of his friend, the Rev. Dr.
-Myddelton. In the hall is still retained an easy chair, in which Dr.
-Johnson was accustomed to sit. On the grounds, a short distance from the
-house, in a very retired situation, overhung with trees, is a monument to
-his memory, bearing the following inscription:—
-
- SAMUEL JOHNSON, LL. D.
- OBIT 13 DIE DECEMBRIS,
- ANNO DOMINO 1784,
- ÆTATIS 75.
-
-And on the other side, on a marble tablet,—“This spot was often dignified
-by the presence of Samuel Johnson, LL.D., whose moral writings, exactly
-conformable to the precepts of Christianity, give ardour to virtue, and
-confidence to truth.” Over a door of a cottage on the estate are the
-following lines, the composition of the learned lexicographer:—
-
- Around this peaceful cot, his humble shed,
- If health, if confidence, if virtue tread,
- Though no proud column grace the gaudy door,
- Where sculptured elegance parades it o’er;
- Nor pomp without, nor pageantry within,
- Nor splendid shew, nor ornament is seen;
- The swain shall look with pity on the great,
- Nor barter quiet for a king’s estate.
-
- 1768.
-
-Near to this place is the village of Henllan, about two miles from which
-is Llanefydd, leading to the Aled and Elwy vales.
-
-
-
-DINAS MOWDDWY,
-(_Merionethshire_.)
-
-Bala 18
-Dolgelley 10
-Llangollen 40
-Machynlleth 13½
-Mallwyd 1½
-
-Dinas Mowddwy is an inconsiderable town, in the parish of Mallwyd,
-pleasantly situated on the shelf of a rock called Craig-y-Ddinas, near
-the margin of the small river Cerrist, at its conflux with the Dovey, and
-on the road from Dolgelley to Mallwyd, at the junction of three vales,
-each of which is inclosed by lofty mountains: it consists chiefly of one
-street. The principal building is the “Plâs,” or mansion, being the
-manor house of the lordship of Mowddwy, which from an early period
-belonged to the Myttons of Halston, but was lately purchased by a Mr.
-Bird, of Birmingham.
-
-Slates, of an inferior quality, are dug from the adjacent rocks, for the
-use of the neighbouring country.
-
-
-DINORWIC (PORT)
-
-
-Is situate about half way between Bangor and Caernarvon, and is the
-shipping place for the Llanberis quarries, belonging to T. Assheton
-Smith, Esq., of Vaenol. Upwards of one hundred tons per day are loaded
-at the wharf, and the railway by which they are conveyed is an object of
-considerable interest.
-
-
-
-DISERTH,
-(_Flintshire_.)
-
-Holywell 9
-Rhuddlan 2½
-St. Asaph 5
-
-The church of this village stands in a romantic situation, overshadowed
-with several large yews. There are some good paintings in the south
-window, and in the chancel is inscribed, “Sir John Conway, 1636.” The
-yard contains some singular tomb-stones; two in particular have a
-semi-circular stone upon their tops: also an ancient cross, adorned with
-wreaths, and another with some traces of a human figure, now inserted
-into the situation as a style. The latter is supposed to be the remains
-of Cross Einion, which was erected on the spot where Einion, son of Risid
-Flaidd, was slain, at one of the sieges which the castle sustained.
-
-The castle, called sometimes Gerri Castle, (or Castell y Graig,) stands
-on the summit of a high lime-stone rock, at the distance of half a mile
-from the village; its remains consist of a few shattered fragments only.
-In a field a little to the south, is a ruinous building called Siamber
-Wen, (the White Hall,) said to have been the house of Sir — Pounderling,
-a valiant knight, who was constable of the castle, and whose tomb is
-still to be seen in Dinmeirchion church. Cwm church, about a mile
-distant, is surrounded with hills, and commands a view of the Vale of
-Clwyd.
-
-From the top of one of the hills that surrounds the village issues a
-water, forming a beautiful cascade, which rises from a small well, culled
-Ffynnon-asa, (or St. Asaph’s Well,) in a dingle in Cwm parish. The
-height of the cascade is 17 yards, concealed between two arches of the
-rock, behind which it has worn a passage.
-
-
-
-DOLGELLEY,
-(_Merionethshire_.)
-
-Bala 18
-Barmouth 10
-Chester 57
-London 212
-Machynlleth 16
-Maen Twrog 18
-Towyn 17
-Trawsfynedd 12
-
-Dolgelley (the Dale of the Hazel) is the principal market town in
-Merionethshire, where the assizes are held alternately with Bala. It is
-situated in a wide and fertile vale, upon the river Wnion, over which is
-a stone bridge of seven arches, erected in 1638, but thoroughly repaired
-and enlarged some years ago. The town is surrounded by high and, in many
-parts, wooded mountains.
-
-There are many well-built houses, including a good range, fronted by
-shops, called Eldon Row, the property of Sir Robert Vaughan; but in
-general the houses are erected with such extreme irregularity in regard
-to each other, as to convey but a mean idea of the projector’s good
-taste. The principal building is the county hall, situated near the
-river; it is a neat stone edifice, erected in 1825, at an expense of
-£3000. The court room is handsomely fitted up with necessary
-accommodations for the officers of justice. In the hall is a splendid
-portrait of Sir R. W. Vaughan, Bart. painted by Sir M. A. Shee, P.R.A.
-
-The county gaol, situated at the outskirts of the town, is a semicircular
-edifice of stone, built in 1811, at an expense of nearly £5000; it
-includes also the house of correction, and comprises three day rooms, and
-four airing yards, and will admit of a classification of the prisoners
-into five divisions. Part of the building in which a parliament was held
-by Owen Glyndwr, is still standing among a group of old houses, having
-the post-office in front, near the Ship Inn, and is called Cwrt Plâs yn y
-Drêv (the town hall court).
-
-The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a neat structure built of
-lime-stone, in the Grecian style of architecture, having a handsome tower
-and large nave. There is an ancient monument of an armed knight; he is
-represented as clad in close mail, wearing a helmet and neck guard, with
-a sword in his hand and a dog at his feet, and a lion passant gardant on
-his shield, on which is inscribed, “Hic jacet Mauric, filius Ynyr
-Vychan.” There is also a handsome monument lately erected to the memory
-of Baron Richards, who was a native of this parish. In 1836, a neat
-monument was also erected to the memory of the late Rev. John Jones, A.M.
-Archdeacon of Merioneth. Service is performed here in the English
-language, on every alternate Sunday, in the afternoon. The celebrated
-antiquary, Robert Vaughan, of Hengwrt, was buried in this church.
-
-This place has long been noted for the manufacture of coarse woollen
-cloth or flannel, called webs, in which a considerable number of persons
-are at present employed. There are several good inns, the Golden Lion,
-the Angel, and the Ship, at all of which guides may be obtained to Cader
-Idris and the waterfalls. There are also three banks here: the old
-Dolgelley bank, a branch of the North and South Wales, and a branch of
-the National Provincial.—About three miles from Dolgelley, on the
-Machynlleth road, is Caerynwch, the seat of Richard Richards, Esq. M.P.
-for this county.
-
-The town is seen to the greatest advantage at the distance of about two
-miles, on the Machynlleth road; but, like in other Welsh towns, is only
-pleasing at a distance. The prospects from a spot called the
-Bowling-green are singularly fine. The threatening summit of Cader
-Idris, the northern ascent to which appears nearly perpendicular, lends
-its mountain sublimity; a train of subordinate inequalities, stretching
-their rugged eminences along its base. But if the town affords so little
-to gratify the curiosity of the inquisitive tourist, its neighbourhood
-abounds with objects of the most interesting character. Sir H. Hoare
-asserts, that he “knows of no place in the Principality whence so many
-pleasing and interesting excursions may be made, and where nature bears
-so rich, varied, and grand an aspect, as at Dolgelley.”
-
-A new road leading from Dolgelley to Towyn was recently opened, by which
-the very hilly and dangerous route through Llanegryn is entirely avoided.
-It passes by Penmaen Pool, Abergwynnant (the mansion of Sir H. Bunbury),
-Garthangharad, Arthog, Ynysfaig, and Henddol, through the village of
-Llwyngiul, where there is a very comfortable inn, called the
-Garthangharad Arms. From the bridge by Abergwynnant, a most magnificent
-view of Cader Idris presents itself; and in going along the sea-coast
-opposite to Barmouth, there is a delightful view of Cardigan Bay, Bardsey
-Island, and the Caernarvonshire mountains. The variety, beauty, and
-extent of prospects on this road are not surpassed in any part of the
-Principality. The highway from Barmouth ferry comes into this road by
-Ynysfaig.
-
-The waterfalls in this vicinity are interesting attractions to the
-tourist: these are _Rhaiadr Dû_ (the Black Cataract);
-_Rhaiadr-y-Mawddach_ (the Fall of the river Mawddach); _Pistyll-y-Cain_
-(the Fall of the Cain). The first is about five, the two latter about
-eight miles from Dolgelley, and all of them near the high road leading
-towards Maentwrog. These falls may be classed among the most magnificent
-and picturesque cataracts of the Principality.
-
-
-Y Vanner, or Kymmer Abbey,
-
-
-Stands in its mouldering desolation about a mile and a half from
-Dolgelley, and half a mile from Llanilltyd, near the banks of the Maw.
-The ruins may be visited by the pedestrian, in his way to the waterfalls.
-The abbey was founded in 1198, by Meredith and Griffith, lords of
-Merioneth. The monks were of the Cistercian order, and the abbey was
-dedicated to St. Mary. Part only of the church of this monastery is
-left, and the refectory and abbot’s lodgings are built into an adjoining
-farm-house.
-
-Within a few hundred yards of the village of Llanilltyd, in this parish,
-on the right of the road from Dolgelley, stands Hengwrt, the property of
-Colonel Vaughan, of Rhûg, formerly the residence of Robert Vaughan, Esq.
-the eminent antiquary, author of British Antiquities Revived and other
-learned works. The library here contains the largest collection of Welsh
-MSS. in existence. It was principally from the MSS. in this library that
-Aneurin Owen, Esq. compiled his able Digest of the Old Welsh Laws.
-
-
-Nassau Park.
-
-
-About two miles from Dolgelley, is an ancient seat, formerly belonging to
-the Nannau family, but now the property and residence of Sir Robert
-Williames Vaughan, Bart.
-
-The grounds of Nannau are entered under a fine gateway, the house being a
-mile distant from the entrance to the park; which for picturesque beauty
-and the calm grandeur of rural scenery, is not surpassed by any domain in
-the Principality. Some romantic traditions also confer additional
-interest on this charming scene. In the higher part are the remains of a
-British post, called Moel Orthrwm (or the Hill of Oppression), having
-probably been held by some notorious tyrant of the olden time. Here also
-once stood an immense oak, blasted and hollowed by time, in which,
-according to popular belief, Owen Glyndwr inhumed the fresh-bleeding
-corpse of his treacherous cousin, Howel Sele, who had been bribed to make
-an attempt upon his life, where it remained concealed for forty years.
-In Pennant’s time, the trunk of this patriarchal tree was twenty-seven
-feet and a half in circumference; it was in the last stage of decay, and
-pierced by age into the form of a Gothic arch. Its end is thus described
-by Sir Richard Colt Hoare: “During a visit to Sir Robert Vaughan, in the
-summer of the year 1813, this aged tree, mentioned by Mr. Pennant,
-attracted my notice; and in the morning of the 13th of July, I made a
-drawing of it, on one of the most sultry days I ever felt; the succeeding
-night was equally hot, and on the same night this venerable oak fell to
-the ground.”
-
-The gardens at Nannau are very extensive, and laid out with excellent
-taste: they contain a number of choice exotics, and an inspection of them
-proves a source of never-failing gratification to every lover of
-horticultural pursuits.
-
-
-Angling Stations.
-
- _Distances from Dolgelley_. _Miles_.
-Traws-vynydd, on the Bychan 12
-Llanvachreth 3½
-Hendre Llwyngwr, (S. W.) 11
-Pont Dolgefiliau, on the Mawddach, (N.) 8
-Dol-y-gamedd, on the Wnion 3½
-Llyn Cregenan, (S. W.) 4
-Llyn Gader 1½
-Llyn Geirw, (S. W.) 5
-Tal-y-llyn, Cader Idris 8
-
-FFESTINIOG,
-(_Merionethshire_.)
-
-Caernarvon 25
-Capel Curig 20
-Bala 19
-Maentwrog 2½
-Tan-y-Bwlch 2½
-Tremadoc 13
-
-Ffestiniog is a small but increasing village, standing on eminence at the
-head of the beautiful vale of Maentwrog. The population amounts to 1648,
-principally employed in the slate quarries, about four miles from the
-village. The church is built in the ancient style of English
-architecture, and dedicated to St. Michael. A gallery has recently been
-erected at the west end, containing seventy-two free sittings. There are
-also several dissenting places of worship, with Sunday schools attached.
-A national school for the parishes of Ffestiniog and Maentwrog, was
-opened in 1830, in a neat building erected a short distance from the
-village on the Maentwrog road. Mrs. Oakeley, of Tan-y-Bwlch, has lately
-built and endowed a chapel of ease near the quarries. It is intended for
-the convenience of the inhabitants of the houses that have been built in
-the vicinity of the quarries, which are upwards of four miles distant
-from the parish church.
-
-There are two good inns, the Pengwern Arms, and the Newborough Arms; at
-the former, cars and post horses may be obtained; there is likewise
-attached to it a very comfortable boarding-house, kept by Miss Owen.
-There is a branch of the North and South Wales bank here. The roads in
-this neighbourhood have, of late, been much improved. A rail road it now
-completed for the conveyance of slates to Port Madoc, a distance of about
-fourteen miles.
-
-The scenery of Ffestiniog closely resembles that of St. Helena, and
-particularly Sandy Hook Cove. The vale which gives celebrity to this
-village has been eulogized by many distinguished travellers. Mr. Pennant
-calls it the “Tempê of the country.” Mr. Warner observes, “that it
-comprehends every object that can enrich or diversify a landscape.” Mr.
-Wyndham affirms, that “it affords as rich studies for the painter, as the
-neighbourhood of Tivoli or Frascati.” And Lord Lyttelton, who visited
-the place about the year 1756, is still more lavish in his encomiums.
-More recent travellers have been equally enthusiastic in their admiration
-of this pleasant locality.—About half a mile from Ffestiniog are the
-
-
-Falls of the Cynvael.
-
-
-One of these is about three hundred yards above, and the other three
-hundred yards below a rustic stone bridge, three quarters of a mile
-distant. The upper fall consists of three steep rocks, over which the
-water foams into a deep black basin, overshadowed by the adjoining rocks.
-The other is formed by a broad sheet of water, precipitated down a
-slightly shelving rock, about 40 feet high. After the water has reached
-the bottom of the deep concavity, it rushes along a narrow rocky chasm,
-where rolling amid the shaggy rocks, it glistens among the scattered
-fragments, and falling from slope to slope, gains a smoother bed, and
-steals among the mazes of the vale. In the pools below these falls,
-there is excellent fishing, the trout and salmon being very numerous.
-Between the lower cataract and the bridge is a tall columnar rock, which
-stands in the bed of the river, called _Pulpit Hugh Llwyd Cynvael_ (or
-Hugh Lloyd’s Pulpit.)
-
-There are few vales which afford such delightful prospects. Many of the
-high mountains bounding its sides, are shaded by oaks, and the serpentine
-Dwyryd steals placidly along the bottom through rich cultivated fields.
-This river, at the bottom of the valley, receives the tide, and expands
-into a wide lake-like channel, called Traeth Bychan, where it flows
-through the sandy estuary of Traeth Bach, and into Cardigan bay, the sea
-at a distance closing the view.
-
-The village of MAENTWROG is delightfully situated near the middle of the
-vale.—About four miles distant, among the hills, is
-
-
-Cwm-orddin Lake.
-
-
-This and several other lakes are notable for the excellent sport they
-afford for angling. Of these, a gentleman who is fond of this diversion,
-and who has visited those parts, has kindly furnished us with the
-following information:—“The fish in Cwm-orddin Lake (says he) rise more
-eagerly to flies than any I ever saw. The fish are rather small, and not
-good for the table. The two best stations for angling, are, first, where
-the boat is kept; second, the head of the lake. Throw among the weeds,
-fearlessly, as they always come away with a pull.
-
-
-Llyn Morwynion,
-
-
-Contains excellent fish, both in size and quality, but they are very shy:
-it is about two miles from Ffestiniog, near the Capel Curig road.—No
-boat.
-
-
-Llyn Maonod,
-
-
-About two miles and a half from Ffestiniog, contains most excellent
-trout, far less shy than those of Morwynion. No boat.—There is a small
-lake just below the summit of Moel Wyn, which may be tried by any one
-wishing to combine a fine extensive view with sport. No boat.—Llyn
-Conway is at times difficult of access round its banks, being marshy. No
-boat.—There are two or three lakes on the right of the road to Bala. My
-opinion is, that without a boat the angler will do little on a lake. I
-would recommend, therefore, a very long rod when you must fish from
-shore. There is good salmon fishing in the river that runs past
-Maentwrog. In the beginning of June, I found the sand fly excellent for
-the lakes.”
-
-
-
-FLINT,
-(_Flintshire_.)
-
-Chester 14
-Holywell 5
-London 200
-Mold 6
-
-Flint is a borough, market-town, and sea-port, and a parochial chapelry
-in the parish of Northop, and is the ancient capital of the county: it
-contains a population of 2860 inhabitants. Although it cannot be
-identified with any Roman station mentioned in the Itineraries, it was
-nevertheless either of Roman or Roman-British origin, as is proved from
-the circumstance of its even now occupying a rectangular entrenched area,
-like that of a Roman place of defence, and by the discovery, at various
-times, both here and in the neighbourhood, of Roman coins, fibulæ, &c.,
-while at the same time it is traditionally related that a very large town
-existed here at an early period.
-
-The town is situated on the shore of the estuary of the Dee, opposite to
-Parkgate, to which ferry-boats ply daily from Flint. It consists of four
-principal streets, crossing each other at right angles; the buildings,
-however, are very inferior in appearance. The town-hall, and gaol where
-the county prisoners are kept, are tolerable structures, but the assizes
-are held at Mold, six miles distant. Close to the town are extensive
-collieries, in which several hundred men are constantly employed, and
-1,500 tons of coal are raised weekly: rail-roads have been constructed to
-convey the coal to the wharfs, whence it is sent coastwise to Chester,
-and to various parts of North Wales. The principal exports, in addition
-to the vast quantity of coal, are the produce of the lead works in the
-vicinity, consisting of lead in pigs, bars, sheets, and patent pipes; red
-lead, litharge, and silver.
-
-For the convenience of persons who visit Flint, hot baths have been
-constructed, and are provided with every requisite accommodation. The
-Royal Oak and the Ship may be considered inns of the second order. The
-government of the town was vested in a mayor, the constable of the castle
-(appointed by letters patent), two bailiffs, a recorder, and twelve
-capital burgesses, assisted by a mace-bearer, and other officers, elected
-annually, until the municipal Reform Act superseded the charters. It is
-one of the contributory boroughs, which, in conjunction with Caergwrle,
-Caerwys, Overton, Rhuddlan, St. Asaph, Holywell, and Mold, return one
-member to parliament. There are daily ferry-boats plying between Flint
-and Chester, at the low rate of six-pence for each passenger.
-
-
-The Castle.
-
-
-The remains of this ancient structure stand upon a rock in the marsh at
-the bottom of the town, and so near the river, that at high water the
-walls are washed by the tide. It has been a square building, with a
-tower at each angle, considerable remains of every one of which are yet
-left. The tower at the south-east corner, which is called the Double
-Tower, is much larger than the others. In its outward diameter it
-measures forty feet; it is formed by two concentric walls, each six feet
-thick, having a gallery eight feet wide included between them, and
-leaving a circular area of about twenty feet in diameter, into which
-there was an entry from the gallery by four doors. This appears to have
-been the keep. The interior of the castle is a square court, containing
-about an acre of ground. In the curtain on the west side, there are yet
-left several windows with pointed arches.
-
-Antiquarians are undecided as to the founder of Flint castle, some
-asserting that it was commenced by Henry the Second, and completed by
-Edward the First; while others affirm that it was entirely the work of
-the latter. It was alternately in possession of the Welsh and English
-princes during the various vicissitudes which distinguished the wars of
-that period; and in 1399 was the scene of the betrayal of the unfortunate
-monarch, Richard the Second, by Percy, Earl of Northumberland, into the
-power of his ambitious rival, Bolingbroke, the “aspiring Lancaster.”
-Under the insidious pretence that Bolingbroke, who was waiting for the
-king at Flint, desired only to have his property restored, and that the
-kingdom should have a parliament, Northumberland met Richard at Conway,
-where he had gone after his return from Ireland; and they were journeying
-together, when, among the recesses of the mountains near Penmaen Rhôs,
-the latter observed a band of soldiers. Alarmed for his safety, and now
-fearful of the snare that was laid for him, he attempted to return; but
-Percy, springing forward, caught his horse’s bridle, and forcibly
-directed his course. They dined together at Rhuddlan castle, and arrived
-on the same evening at Flint. The next day, “after dinner, (says Stowe)
-the Duke of Lancaster entered the castle all armed, his basinet excepted.
-King Richard came down to meet him; and the duke, as soon as he saw the
-king, fell down on his knees, and coming near unto him, he kneeled a
-second time with his hat in his hand; and the king then put off his
-hoode, and spoke first: ‘Fair cousin of Lancaster, you are right
-welcome.’ The duke, bowing low to the ground, answered, ‘My lord, I am
-come before you sent for me; the reason why I shall shew you. The common
-fame among your people is such, that ye have for the space of twenty or
-two-and-twenty years, ruled them very rigorously; but, if it please our
-lord, I will help you to govern better!’ The duke then, with a high
-sharp voice, bade bring forth the king’s horses, and two little nagges,
-not worth fourtie franks, were brought forthe: the king was set on the
-one, and the Earl of Salisbury on the other; and thus the duke brought
-them from Flint to Chester;” whence, after a night’s rest, they were
-marched to London, and made a public entry into the metropolis, under
-those moving circumstances which are so exquisitely narrated by Shakspere
-in his tragedy of Richard the Second.
-
-In the civil wars, Flint castle was garrisoned for the king, by Sir Roger
-Mostyn, and was defended with great bravery, but was at last surrendered
-to General Mytton. In August, 1646, it was ordered to be dismantled,
-with Hawarden and several other fortresses, and has since fallen into
-utter decay, though its ruins present towards the sea a somewhat imposing
-appearance.
-
-
-
-GRESFORD,
-(_Denbighshire_.)
-
-Chester 8
-Wrexham 3
-
-Gresford is a beautiful village, situated on the western side of the road
-from Wrexham to Chester, near the head of a romantic valley, which opens
-into the Vale Royal of Cheshire, a tract of country remarkable for the
-richness of its soil, the beauty of its scenery, and the diversified
-views which it presents. The little vale of Gresford was one of the most
-lovely in the Principality; but the fiery dragons of the Shrewsbury and
-Chester Railway have now invaded its tranquil retreats, and marred the
-picturesque charms of this locality.
-
-On one of the richly wooded eminences overlooking the vale, stands
-Gresford Church, a truly noble and admirable specimen of ecclesiastical
-architecture, in the late perpendicular style, which was probably built
-during the latter part of the reign of Henry the Seventh. No tourist,
-who has the least taste for ecclesiology, should neglect to examine this
-sacred edifice, which exhibits in its construction a combination of
-beauties that never fail to command the eulogiums of the intelligent and
-discriminating. Its appearance is also much enhanced by the scenery
-around it, and those only who are familiar with the vicinity can feel how
-admirably the church harmonises with the country. Its melodious peal of
-bells was once reckoned among the seven wonders of North Wales; but
-wonders since those days have become more plentiful, and some people say
-the peal is actually deteriorated. In the churchyard is a remarkable yew
-tree, 30 feet in girth, which botanists say is more than 2000 years old.
-This tree attracts even as much notice as the church itself.
-
-Deeply sheltered in the vale, is Gresford Lodge, the elegant seat of Mrs.
-W. Egerton. Upper Gwersyllt Hall, on the banks of the Alyn, was the
-residence of Colonel Robinson, a distinguished partizan of the
-unfortunate Charles the First, who was interred in Gresford church in
-1680. Lower Gwersyllt was occupied by another zealous adherent of that
-prince, Jefferey Shakerley.
-
-From the top of Marford Hill, on the road towards Chester, is a most
-magnificent and extensive view of the vale of Cheshire, the “old city,”
-and the river Dee. In the immediate vicinity of the village, is an
-eminence called the Rofts, formerly a British camp, treble-trenched,
-having at one corner a lofty mount or keep.
-
-Angling station.—The river Alyn.
-
-
-
-HANMER,
-(_Flintshire_.)
-
-Ellesmere 5
-Wrexham 10
-
-This village, which forms a detached portion of Flintshire, takes its
-name from a spacious mere or lake, in form resembling a human hand, on
-one side of which the village is pleasantly situated. It stands on the
-road betwixt Wrexham and Whitchurch. The lake occupies a space of 73
-acres, on one side of which stands the family mansion of Sir John Hanmer,
-and on the other the seat of Lord Kenyon. In the church is a handsome
-monument, erected in 1806, to the memory of Lord Chief Justice Kenyon,
-who was born at Gredington, in the vicinity. There is another monument
-in honour of Sir Thomas Hanmer, who was Speaker of the House of Commons
-in the reign of Queen Anne.
-
-Hanmer is distinguished by the Welsh, as being the birthplace of their
-celebrated bard, Davydd ab Edmund, who at an Eisteddvod, held at
-Caermarthen, in 1451, won the bardic chair, and through his superior
-eloquence obtained the sanction of that congress to his twenty-four
-canons of Welsh poetry, by which the “science” has, in a great measure,
-been governed ever since.
-
-
-
-HARLECH,
-(_Merionethshire_.)
-
-Barmouth 10
-London 229
-Maen-Twrog 10
-Penmorfa, across sands 12
-Tan-y-Bwlch 10
-Tremadoc, across sands 10
-Do. through Tan-y-Bwlch 20
-
-Harlech, or Harddlech, is an inconsiderable place, situated upon a barren
-rock, containing four or five hundred inhabitants; it is the county town
-of Merionethshire, and all elections for a representative in parliament
-take place here. Its name is derived from its situation, originally
-called Twr Bronwen, and afterwards Caer Collwyn, from Collwyn ap Tagno,
-who resided there about 877. Harlech castle stands on a rocky eminence,
-close by the marshy tract between the hills and Cardigan bay, bearing it
-is said a strong resemblance to the Turkish castle of Belgrade. It
-consists of one large square building, each side measuring about 70
-yards, having a round tower at the several corners, crowned with turrets
-now nearly defaced. The walls, now clad with ivy, are lofty and of great
-thickness, from the summit of which a most splendid and sublime prospect
-may be commanded, including a vast extent of marine and mountain scenery.
-
-According to ancient history, this castle was built by Maelgwyn Gwynedd,
-Prince of North Wales, about 530, and Edward I. founded the present
-fortress upon the ruins of the old building. It was completed in 1283.
-In 1404, this castle, with that of Aberystwyth, was seized by Owen
-Glyndwr, during his contest with Henry IV. They were both retaken, about
-four years afterwards, by an army which the king despatched into Wales.
-Margaret of Anjou, the haughty queen of Henry VI., after the king’s
-defeat at Northampton, in 1460, fled from Coventry, and found an asylum
-in this fortress.
-
-In the civil wars of Charles I. Harlech castle was the last in North
-Wales which held out for the king. Near this place is a curious antique
-monument, called Coeten Arthur, or King Arthur’s Quoit, which is a large
-flat stone, lying horizontally, supported by two others. The supporters
-are about twenty inches square, two of them are eight feet high, and the
-incumbent stone, inclining to an oval, is eleven feet in length. Col.
-Vaughan, of Rhûg, is constable of the castle.
-
-In the winter of 1694, this neighbourhood was greatly alarmed by a kind
-of fiery exhalation, or mephitic vapour, which arose from a sandy marshy
-tract of land, called Morfa Bychan (the little marsh), across the
-channel, eight miles towards Harlech, and injured much of the country, by
-poisoning the grass in such a manner as to kill the cattle, and to set
-fire to hay and corn ricks for near a mile from the coast. It is
-represented to have had the appearance of a weak blue flame, which by any
-noise, such as the firing of guns, or the sounding of a horn, was easily
-extinguished. All the damage was done invariably in the night, and in
-the course of the winter not less than sixteen hay ricks and two barns,
-one filled with corn and the other with hay, were burnt by it. It did
-not appear to affect anything else, and the men could go into it without
-receiving any injury. It was observed at different times during eight
-months. The occasion of this singular phenomenon has never been
-satisfactorily accounted for.
-
-In 1692, a golden torque, which is now placed amongst the admirable
-collection of Welsh antiquities at Mostyn, was discovered near Harlech.
-It is in the form of a wreathed bar of gold, highly polished, twisted,
-and flexible. It is hooked at both ends, and about four feet long.
-
-From Harlech an excursion may be made to Cwm Bychan (the little hollow),
-about four miles distant.—One mile from the town may be seen a circle of
-stones, thirty yards in diameter, probably one of those druidic circles
-in which were held the _gorseddau_, or bardic meetings. Cwm Bychan is a
-grassy dell, about half a mile in length, surrounded by desolate scenery.
-On the right, at its entrance, is the small pool called Llyn y Cym
-Bychan, from the edge of which Carreg y Saeth (the Rock of the Arrow),
-towers in dreary blackness; yet the landscape extends hence in great
-magnificence. Descending into the hollow, past an ancient mansion, and
-ascending on the other side, a deep mountain hollow occurs, called Bwlch
-Tyddiad. Passing upon this rocky cleft beyond the higher mountains, a
-fine prospect of all the country eastward suddenly opens, bounded by the
-majestic Cader Idris, the two Arrenigs, and other ranges of commanding
-grandeur.
-
-Out of the track, two miles south of Harlech, is a cromlech, in a farm
-called Gwern Einion; and on the side of the hill, where the road passes,
-in the recesses of a wood, is a considerable cataract. Between the
-cromlech and the town of Harlech is another druidic circle.
-
-At the ebb of the tide, part of a long stone wall, which runs out into
-the sea from Machran, a point of land a few miles south of Harlech, may
-be seen. It extends in a W.S.W. direction for nearly twenty miles, and
-is called Sarn Badrig, or Sarn Badrwyg (the Shipwrecking Causeway), an
-astonishing work, being throughout 24 feet thick. Sarn y Bwlch runs from
-a point N.W. of Harlech, and is supposed to meet the end of this. The
-space between is said to have formed, several centuries ago, a habitable
-hundred of Merionethshire, called Cantref Gwaelod (the Lowland Hundred).
-Those walls, as it is supposed, were built to keep out the sea.
-
-The principal inn is the Blue Lion, where post chaises may be had, and a
-guide procured to conduct the tourist to the many objects of attraction
-in the neighbourhood. The parish church having become very dilapidated,
-a new one, more conveniently situated, has been built, on a site given by
-the late Sir R. W. Vaughan, of Nannau. It was consecrated in 1841; the
-expense of its erection being defrayed by subscriptions, aided by grants
-from the Incorporated Society for building and repairing Churches, and
-from the Bangor Diocesan Church Building Society. The service is
-occasionally performed in the English language.
-
-
-Angling Stations.
-
- _Distance from Harlech_. _Miles_.
-Llanvihangel, on the Dwyryd 5
-Llanbedr, on the Bychan 3
-_Lakes_.—Llyn y Vedw near the Dwyryd.
- Llyn Eidaw
- Llyn Glyn
- Llyn y Cym Bychan 5
- Llyn Trewyn.
-
-HAWARDEN,
-(_Flintshire_.)
-
-Chester 7
-Flint 8
-Holywell 11
-Northop 5
-
-This prosperous little town, pronounced Harden, consists of one
-continuous street, more than half a mile long, and has a neat and cleanly
-appearance. The British name was _Pennardd __Halawg_, or
-_Pennardd-y-Lâg_, corrupted probably from _Pen-y-Lwch_ (the head-land
-above the lake), the surrounding marshes having been once covered by the
-sea. It has a weekly market and the population of the parish is rated at
-somewhat above 6000 inhabitants. The Glynne Arms is the principal inn
-where the traveller may be comfortably accommodated.
-
-Extensive collieries are worked in this parish, and there are also
-several large brick and tile works, besides numerous potteries for the
-manufacture of the coarser kind of earthenware. An extensive foundry is
-carried on at Hawarden by Messrs. Williams & Co., and has become
-celebrated for the manufacture of steam-engines, iron steam-boats, and
-other works of mechanical science which modern enterprise has brought
-into active requisition. The river Dee, or Chester channel, passes
-within about two miles of the town, and thus affords every facility of
-water conveyance.
-
-The living is a “peculiar,” in the patronage of Sir S. R. Glynne, and of
-which the Rev. H. Glynne is the rector. Its value, according to the
-“Liber Ecelesiasticus,” is £2844. The church, dedicated to St. Deiniol,
-is an ancient and spacious structure, with a square embattled tower. It
-was thoroughly repaired in 1764, and the chancel was almost entirely
-rebuilt in 1817, at an expense of £1400, jointly defrayed by the Hon. and
-Rev. George Neville Grenville, then rector, the late Lord Amesbury, and
-the inhabitants. Various restorations and improvements have also been
-effected by the present rector.
-
-Hawarden has likewise the advantage of an endowed grammar school. The
-parish is very extensive, and besides the church just noticed, contains
-three others; all in admirable condition, and remarkable for the
-exemplary order and efficiency with which the services of our holy
-liturgy are solemnized. There is one at Broughton, another at Buckley,
-which has lately been repaired and beautified; and a third at
-Pen-y-mynydd, which is an elegant and perfect specimen of architecture.
-It was built at the cost of Sir S. R. Glynne, Bart. M.P., and was
-consecrated in 1843. With each of these churches, commodious schools are
-connected; and indeed, the ecclesiastical establishments, within the
-peculiar of Hawarden, are worthy of all praise. Hawarden Park, one of
-the most charming and picturesque of the many noble domains scattered
-through the Principality, is remarkable for the extreme verdure and
-softness of its grass, the majestic stateliness of its trees, the calm
-solitudes of its glens, and the combined loveliness and sublimity of its
-landscape scenery. It is also a spot of much historical interest; as
-within its territory, stand the ivy-clad ruins of an ancient castle,
-which, in past ages, was a fortress of great importance.
-
-Little more than fragments of the former towers and keep remain; indeed,
-a considerable portion of the ruin was itself obscured by heaps of
-rubbish, till the late Sir John Glynne had them removed, and the
-foundations laid open to view. It was constructed in a pentagonal form;
-on one side was a spacious gateway, and on the other a kind of barbican.
-At one angle was situated the keep or citadel, a circular tower still
-nearly entire, and which forms one of the most picturesque objects that
-strike the eye on first approaching ‘its ancient solitary reign.’ Other
-portions consist of the relics of the vast mouldering walls—of massive
-_donjons_,—and, in one part, of a long flight of steps, at the bottom of
-which was a door and a draw-bridge, crossing a ravine to another division
-of the castle, embracing, most probably, the prison, thus fearfully
-secured.
-
-On all sides it was surrounded by deep chasms and fosses, and, from its
-extensive plan and broad foundations, it has the appearance of having
-been erected at different periods—of having been sometimes defaced and at
-others restored, according to the vicissitudes and fortunes of war.
-
-Dating soon after the Conquest, it came into possession of Roger
-Fitzvalerine, a son of one of the adventurers who followed the Norman
-Conqueror. It was subsequently held, on the tenure of seneschalship, by
-the family of Monthault, of the Earls of Chester, and finally annexed by
-Henry the Third to the crown. After this it came into the possession of
-Prince Llywelyn, and was stormed by his brother David. On the subjection
-of the country, Hawarden was granted to the house of Salisbury, and
-afterwards to that of Stanley. From Thomas, Earl of Derby, it descended
-to his second wife Margaret, Countess of Richmond, and mother of Henry
-the Seventh. In 1495, that monarch is stated to have honoured the castle
-with a visit, to enjoy the pleasures of the chase; but his real motive
-was to ingratiate himself with the Earl her husband, after the ungrateful
-act of executing his brother Sir William Stanley, to whose assistance he
-was mainly indebted for the crown. The estates continued in the family
-till the execution of James Earl of Derby, in 1651; and, not long after,
-they were purchased by Sergeant Glynne, from the Commissioners of
-Sequestration.
-
-It was at Hawarden that the ambitious Earl of Leicester, after securing
-the persons of the King and his son Edward, entered into that fatal
-league with Llywelyn which compelled Henry to surrender the sovereignty
-of Wales, with the homage of its baronial suffrages, which were
-transferred to the Welsh prince. In the last struggle for independence,
-it was surprised by David, his brother, on the night of Palm Sunday, and
-the entire garrison put to the sword. This prince had acted with equal
-perfidy towards Edward the First, his benefactor, and towards Llywelyn.
-
-From the now broken towers of Hawarden, there is a vast and most
-magnificent prospect, embracing a wide sweep of country, from the Vale
-Royal of Cheshire to the estuaries of the Dee and the Mersey.
-
-The modern mansion of Hawarden Park, the seat of Sir S. R. Glynne, Bart.
-M.P., Lord Lieutenant of Flintshire, is a stately structure, erected by
-Sir John Glynne in 1752. In 1809 it received some magnificent additions,
-and then assumed the form of a castellated edifice, with antique-looking
-windows and turrets. The pleasure-grounds are beautiful and extensive.
-
-To the west of Hawarden church, in a field near to the turnpike-road, is
-an artificial mount of earth, which Mr. Pennant conjectures to have been
-a small camp. Tradition says, it was raised as a fortification, to
-prevent Henry the Second from advancing by this pass into Wales, in 1157.
-The prospects therefrom are delightfully grand, comprehending a view of
-Chester and the entire course of the silvery Dee from the old city to the
-Irish channel.—About two miles from Hawarden stands
-
-
-Buckley Mountain.
-
-
-which has now become the thriving seat of a large population engaged in
-the collieries; and in the manufacture of earthenware, draining tiles,
-and fire-bricks; all of which are held in high repute, and consequently
-command an extensive trade.
-
-
-Ewloe Castle
-
-
-is distant from Hawarden about two miles, and stands a quarter of a mile
-to the right from the turnpike-road leading thence to Northop. This
-interesting and lonely ruin does not discover itself by lofty towers, but
-will require some trouble to find it, as it is concealed on the east,
-west, and south, by the adjoining grounds, and embosomed in trees to the
-north, without any visible way of approach, save up the streamlet, which
-passes at its foot, and discharges itself into the estuary of the Dee,
-about two miles and a half below. Pennant designates this structure a
-small fortress, but from its present appearance it seems better
-calculated for the retirement or resort of a gang of desperate marauders,
-than for any military purpose. The towers are now finely overgrown with
-ivy, and command the view of three wooded glens, forming a gloomy
-solitude. The time of its erection is involved in some obscurity.—In the
-woods, near this place, called to this day,
-
-
-Coed Ewloe,
-
-
-part of the flower of the army detached by Henry the Second, in 1157,
-from his camp on Saltney, was surprised and defeated by David and Conan,
-the sons of Owen Gwynedd, sent by their father with a strong party from
-his camp near Basingwerk. They suffered the enemy to march along the
-straits of the country, till their forces were entangled in the depth of
-the woods and the steeps of the narrow valleys. The attack was fierce,
-sudden, and unexpected: the slaughter dreadful; and the pursuit carried
-even to Henry’s encampment. This proved to the English but a prelude to
-a second defeat. The king, with intent to repair the disgrace, marched
-forward with his whole army; and at Coleshill, near Flint, suffered
-himself to be entrapped into the same dilemma which his detachment had
-before experienced. His forces were again defeated, and several of his
-chiefs, with numbers of his men, slain. Henry de Essex, hereditary
-standard-bearer, and a man of approved valour, was seized with a panic,
-and throwing down the standard, cried out the king was killed. The route
-would have been general, if the king had not valiantly rallied his
-forces, and repulsed the Welsh; but in the end he thought it prudent to
-withdraw his army, and encamp in a more secure situation. He afterwards
-attempted to cut off the retreat of Owen Gwynedd by marching along the
-shore, and placing himself between him and the mountains; but the
-sagacious prince, penetrating his views, retired to a plain near St.
-Asaph, still called Cil Owen (or Owen’s Retreat), and thence to a strong
-post, called Brin-y-Pin, defended by great ramparts and ditches.
-
-
-
-HOLT,
-(_Denbighshire_.)
-
-Chester 8
-Wrexham 6
-
-A small village, on the west bank of the Dee, was once a market town, and
-a place of some consequence; yet, even in its decayed and delapidated
-state, it has for its governor a mayor and two bailiffs.—The two villages
-of Holt and Farndon are separated only by the river, and communicate by a
-bridge of ten arches, built in 1345. The Dee at this place divides
-England from Wales; Farndon being in Cheshire, and Holt in Denbighshire.
-
-
-
-HOLYHEAD,
-(_Anglesea_.)
-
-Amlwch 20
-Bangor 24
-Beaumaris 27
-Chester 86
-Dublin 60
-London, by Chester 266
-
-This place, which is of very remote antiquity, derives its Welsh name,
-Caer Gybi, implying the fortress or city of Cybi (pronounced Kubby), from
-its situation on a small island at the western extremity of Anglesea,
-called Ynys Cybi, for many years the residence of a British saint of that
-name, who is said to have been the son of Solomon Duke of Cornwall. Its
-population in 1841, was 3869 inhabitants.
-
-Owing to the very extensive intercourse which now subsists between Great
-Britain and Ireland, the town has, within the last few years, rapidly
-increased in extent and improved in appearance. From its advantageous
-situation, it has been selected as the principal station of the
-post-office packets, for conveying the mails to Dublin; and among other
-improvements, a new line of road has been constructed under the walls of
-the town, along the margin of the traeth, or sandy estuary, which forms
-the harbour, extending more than a mile along an artificial embankment,
-from the entrance of the town to the commencement of the pier. This pier
-extends from the small island, called Ynys Halen, or Salt Island, in an
-east south-easterly direction into the sea, and is 360 yards in length.
-It is connected with the main land by a handsome iron bridge of one arch,
-dividing the centre, and each part turning on a swivel to afford a
-passage on either side. Beyond this bridge are the engineer’s house, the
-custom house, the harbour-master’s offices, and the depôt for the
-post-office stores: further on is a grand triumphal arch, built by
-subscription of the gentry of the county of Anglesey, to commemorate the
-circumstance of the royal squadron having anchored in Holyhead bay, on
-the night of the 6th of August, 1821, and the landing of his majesty
-George IV. on the following day. The grand terminus of the Chester and
-Holyhead railway will be on the site of the present pier, and it has been
-resolved by government to make a packet station and harbour of refuge,
-equal to the wants of the whole Irish channel, and upon a most extensive
-and magnificent scale, from designs made by the celebrated engineer, Mr.
-Rendel. When the railway and harbour improvements are completed, the
-transit between London and Dublin will be accomplished in thirteen hours.
-
-The triumphal arch, which was opened in August, 1824, is a chaste and
-elegant structure of Mona marble, brought from the Red-wharf Quarry, and
-consists of a central carriage way, separated on each side by two
-handsome pillars of the Doric order from a footway, enclosed by a wall
-ornamented at the extremities with antæ of correspondent character, the
-whole twenty feet high, and supporting a boldly projecting cornice,
-surmounted by three diminishing tiers of masonry, forming a platform.
-Over the carriage-way, on each side, is a large entablature, respectively
-bearing inscriptions in Welsh and Latin, commemorative of the event.
-
-The lighthouse is built entirely of hewn stone, and without any other
-timber than what was necessary for the door cases and window frames. It
-consists of three stories, the ceilings of which are groined, and the
-gloves are of smooth stone: its base is six feet above high water mark,
-and is protected from the sea by a stone glacis. The tower, which is
-circular, is thirty-three feet in height to the gallery, and the lantern,
-which is ten feet higher, is lighted with twenty brilliant lights of oil
-gas, having reflectors plated with silver, and displaying a strong white
-light, which, being at an elevation of fifty feet above the level of the
-sea, affords a safe guide to vessels approaching the harbour. The whole
-of these works were completed at an expense of about £130,000, and a
-graving dock was constructed at an additional expense of £12,000.
-
-The post-office establishment at this place consists of six steam packets
-of 230 tons burden, which sail regularly from this port and Kingstown,
-keeping up a constant intercourse between the two countries.
-
-No manufactures are carried on at this place: several attempts have been
-made at considerable expense to explore the mineral treasures with which
-the parish was supposed to abound, but nothing of importance has yet been
-discovered, except veins of Mona marble, called “verd antique,” which
-have been worked to some extent. The trade consists chiefly in the
-building of coasting vessels, the repairing of all the post office steam
-packets belonging to the several ports of England and Wales, and the
-making of ropes and cables. The market is on Saturday. The North and
-South Wales bank has a branch here.
-
-The church, dedicated to St. Cybi, is a spacious cruciform structure,
-principally in the decorated style of English architecture.
-
-The promontory called the Head, by which the harbour is sheltered from
-the westerly winds, presents a singular aspect, its sides towards the sea
-forming in some parts immense perpendicular precipices, while in others
-they are worn, by the continued action of the waves, into caverns of
-magnificent and romantic appearance. Of these, one called the
-“parliament house,” is accessible only by boats at half ebb ride, and
-consists of a series of receding arches, supported by massive and lofty
-pillars of rock, displaying an interior of picturesque beauty and sublime
-grandeur. Some of these caverns afford shelter for gulls, razor-bills,
-herons, cormorants, and other birds; and the loftiest crags are
-frequented by the peregrine falcon. The eggs of these birds are in great
-request as a delicacy for the table; and some of the hardiest inhabitants
-are employed in the hazardous task of procuring them for sale.
-
-There are several ancient military forts in the neighbourhood, whose
-appearance indicates them to be of Roman origin. At a small distance
-westerly is a large hill, having several natural and artificial
-curiosities. Within about 200 yards of the top are the remains of a
-strong wall, which seem to have belonged, as well as the churchyard
-walls, to a place of defence against the frequent incursions of the
-Irish. To the W. S. W. of the top, and nearly under it, in a situation
-awfully romantic, are the remains of a chapel. From the top of this
-mountain there is a most extensive view, comprehending the Isle of Man,
-the hill of Howth on the Irish coast, and parts of the Highlands of
-Scotland.
-
-Many gold Roman coins of the time of later emperors were found a few
-years ago in Holyhead mountain; and in 1835, in removing some old walls
-at Ty Mawr (Great House), the property of Lord Stanley, of Alderley, were
-found several spear heads, axes, and rings, of bronze, with red amber
-blades, which from the form and the nature of the materials, appear to be
-of Phœnician origin. At Trefigreeth, another farm belonging to the
-Stanley family, situated within a quarter of a mile of the London and
-Holyhead road, about one mile from the town, is a small but perfect
-cromlech. A larger one, in great preservation, may be seen at
-Presadwaedd, about four miles from Holyhead. And at Tywyn-y-Capel, about
-two miles from Holyhead, on the old post road, and close to the sea, is a
-very singular mound, on the top of which, a few years ago, were the
-remains of a small chapel. The mound is artificial, being formed of sea
-sand. It is filled with graves. The coffins are formed of rude flat
-stones, and are placed in rows above each other. They contain the
-remains of persons of both sexes. The sea every year makes encroachments
-upon it, laying open the graves and strewing the shore with bones.
-Tradition is silent as to the origin of this singular place of burial.
-It is worth the investigation of the antiquary.
-
-The South Stack Light-house is connected with the harbour, and materially
-contributes to facilitate its access. It is erected on the summit of an
-isolated rock, three or four miles westward from Holyhead, and separated
-from the main land by a chasm 90 feet in width. This splendid structure
-was raised in the year 1808. The elevation of the summit of the rock on
-which it is erected, is 140 feet above the level of the sea at high water
-mark; the height of the tower, from the base to the gallery, is 60 feet;
-and the lantern is 12 feet high from the gallery; making the total
-elevation of the light 212 feet above high water mark. The light is
-produced by twenty-one brilliant lamps, with powerful reflectors placed
-on a revolving triangular frame, displaying a full-faced light every two
-minutes, which, in clear weather, is distinctly visible at a distance of
-ten leagues. Latterly there has been an addition of three red lights
-placed at the rock, which are more distinctly visible in foggy weather
-than the light-house lights. The rough sea caused by the strong tides,
-about the head, rendered the communication by boat very precarious. In
-order to obviate the danger, a passage was contrived by means of two
-ropes thrown across the gulph, along which the individual was drawn in a
-box or cradle, by the assistance of pulleys affixed at each end. This
-plan was superseded by a bridge of ropes, which was used some years
-after, though always considered unsafe, on account of the constant wear
-of the ropes. In 1827, a modern suspension chain bridge was thrown over
-the sound, the span of which is 110 feet, the chains being firmly bolted
-in the rock on each side, and carried over two massive stone pillars
-erected for the purpose. The chain supports a platform of timber five
-feet wide, and 70 feet above high water mark. The bridge is attained by
-descending the Holyhead mountain in a zigzag direction, by a flight of
-380 steps.
-
-On the rocks south of the harbour of Holyhead, and commanding the town,
-an obelisk has been erected by public subscription to the memory of the
-late Captain Skinner, formerly master of one of the post-office packets
-on this station, who lost his life by being washed overboard in 1833. He
-was very generally respected, and had been a commander on this station
-for many years.
-
-To the N. E. is the Isle of Skerries, on which there is also a
-light-house.
-
-There are several good inns at Holyhead, the principal of which is the
-Eagle and Child Hotel.
-
-For romantic wildness and stern grandeur of aspect, no place can surpass
-this portion of the iron-bound coast of Anglesea.
-
-
-
-
-
-HOLYWELL,
-(_Flintshire_.)
-
-Chester 18
-Denbigh 14
-Flint 5
-London 201
-Mold 10
-Northop 6
-Rhuddlan 11
-St. Asaph 10
-
-Holywell, called by the Welsh Trêffynnon, (or the Town of the Well,) is
-an improving and pleasantly-situated place, on the great road from
-Chester to Holyhead; the town and parish containing a population of
-10,834, with a crowded market on the Friday.
-
-But before going into any topographical particulars, we must introduce
-our readers to the legend of the miraculous well of the famous St.
-Winefred, as put into an agreeable narrative by Miss Costello:—
-
- We stopped at a remarkably good inn, and lost no time in going down
- the steep hill at the bottom of which the pretty little chapel over
- the fine well is situated. Nothing can be more secluded and pleasing
- than its position by the side of the handsome church with its low
- churchyard, all placed in a deep hollow, so removed from the upper
- town, that the bells summoning to prayer cannot be heard above, and a
- ringer is accustomed to go about the town with the large bell slung
- round his shoulders, and a cushion on his knee, against which the
- bell beats as he walks, and proclaims his holy errand. This old
- custom, doubtless of considerable antiquity, is still kept up, and we
- are glad that, being there on a Sunday, we were able to see the
- perambulating belfry.
-
- Margaret, the mother of Henry VII., erected the graceful chapel whose
- fretted roof is the boast of Holywell, but one had existed long
- before her time; for the miracle of St. Winefred happened, according
- to the monks of the Basingwerk, to whom the world is indebted for the
- legend, early in the seventh century, and is thus told:
-
- Winefred, a beautiful and devout virgin, lived in the reign of an
- imaginary king, and was of noble birth, and the niece of a man whose
- sanctity had already made him conspicuous, and who was known as the
- good Beuno. A prince of the country, whose name was Caradoc, saw the
- fair damsel, and loved her; but his passion was not so pure as her
- goodness ought to have inspired. Even then there was a chapel at the
- foot of the hill, where, while Beuno was at the altar praying with
- certain of the inhabitants of the neighbouring town, amongst whom
- were the parents of Winefred, to the astonishment of all, a head
- rolled and bounded into the sacred inclosure, and stopped at the
- altar. Beuno stooped to raise up the head, and observed that where
- it had rested, instead of the pool of blood which was there but an
- instant before, a stream of crystal water had sprung up. His
- amazement was increased when he found that the beautiful features and
- golden hair of the head he gazed upon were those of his beloved
- niece. He hastened from the spot, and mounting the hill, discovered
- her mutilated body lying prostrate, and the cruel prince Caradoc
- flying with a drawn sword in his hand. The truth became clear to him
- at once. Winefred had fled from the importunities of the prince who,
- pursuing, had wreaked his vengeance on her by cutting off her head.
- The saint, for such Beuno afterwards became, immediately with devout
- prayers joined the severed head to the body, when, to the awe and
- delight of all beholders, the virgin arose, as if from sleep,
- uninjured and lovely as ever, nor was there a trace left of the
- accident but a slight white mark, like a thread, round her throat.
- Beuno cursed the caitif prince, “who melted away as wax melts before
- the fire.” Winefred lived fifteen years after this event; she
- founded a monastery at Gwytherin in Denbighshire, of which she became
- the abbess, and died there.
-
- Before the event of her decapitation, it seems the valley was
- particularly dry, so much so as to bear the name of _Sychnant_, {130}
- from that circumstance; therefore it was most fortunate that the head
- of the pursued damsel should have rolled where it did. Not only did
- the spring attest the miracle, but the very moss and stones around
- have properties that enforce the belief. The moss emits an
- odoriferous smell in testimony of the saint’s purity, and the stones
- at the bottom are stained with her blood, and keep their tint to this
- day. It is true that some naturalists, who had not the same motive
- for keeping the world in ignorance as the monks of Basingwerk had,
- have proclaimed that the moss is only a sweet-scented plant called
- _Jungermannia asplenoides_, and that the crimson stains on the stones
- are produced by a vegetable named _Byssus jolithus_, by no means
- uncommon, thus characterised by Linnæus: “the Byssus easily betrays
- itself by giving the stones, to which it adheres, an appearance of
- being smeared with blood. If rubbed, the plant yields a smell like
- violets.”
-
-Fortunately, all the botanical and other students of the days of St.
-Winefred were monks, who knew well how to keep their own counsel, and
-turn their knowledge to their own advantage.
-
-Our fair tourist proceeds to narrate some of the “miracles and lying
-wonders,” which are said to have occurred during the removal of the
-devout virgin’s corpse from Gwytherin to Shrewsbury; and then comes a
-conclusion, which we suppose the devotees of the saint of the Holy Well
-will regard as nothing less than “flat blasphemy.” “After all this,”
-observes Miss Costello, “it is mortifying to find that the blessed St.
-Winefred never existed at all, nor was more than an Undine, a thought, a
-name, a fairy of a fountain! for Gwenvrewy, as she is called in Welsh,
-signifies _the white hill water_, or the _white gushing stream_, meaning
-the overflowing well which Nature formed without a miracle.”
-
-As our province is rather to describe the well itself, than to bandy
-arguments about the lady whose name it bears, we may briefly state that
-it is one of the most remarkable springs of water in the kingdom.
-
-The well is an oblong square, about twelve feet by seven. The water
-passes into a small square court through an arch, under which the Roman
-Catholics used to swim as an act of penance. The quantity of water
-thrown up is not less than eighty-four hogsheads every minute. This
-water has never been known to freeze, and scarcely ever varies in
-quantity, either in drought, or after the greatest rains. Though this
-stream has little more than a mile to run before it arrives at the sea, a
-great number of mills, forges, and other works are kept in motion by it,
-three of which are placed abreast.
-
-The sacred well is the object of many pilgrimages, even in this day, and
-several modern miracles are related of the influence of its waters. Pope
-Martin the fifth especially enjoined such pilgrimages, and the monks of
-Basingwerk were furnished with pardons and indulgences to sell to the
-devotees. James the Second visited the well in 1686; and Leopold, king
-of the Belgians, in 1819.
-
-Apart from all superstitious notions, its waters doubtless possess many
-sanative properties.
-
-The authoress of the new romance of “Llywelyn’s Heir,” says with
-reference to this charmed place: “We would recommend any strangers to the
-spot to visit it, should an opportunity offer, and judge with their own
-eyes of the lightness and beauty of the tall pointed arches and the
-flying buttresses that adorn the exterior; and to decide whether the
-interior is not even more worthy of notice. The well, into which the
-miraculous stream pours forth its astounding body of water, is polygonal;
-the columns that rise above it are singularly beautiful, and after many
-serpentine wanderings, meet and form a canopy worthy of the water-king,
-who doubtless frequently holds there his court. The legend of the saint,
-and beautiful carvings in stone are scattered around; but they appear to
-have been placed there to do honour to the house of Stanley, and not to
-the saint—by no means an astonishing circumstance, for the saint had been
-long dead, and was probably tired of working miracles; and the Stanleys
-were living, and willing to bestow munificent gifts, of which this
-building and the chapel above it remain memorials to this day.”
-
-The church, dedicated to St. Winefred, and rebuilt in 1769, is a rather
-spacious structure of Grecian architecture, 68 feet long by 56 wide;
-consisting of a nave with north and south aisles, with a chancel, in
-which is a window embellished with modern stained glass. It has also two
-large galleries over the aisles, and the whole is calculated to contain
-about 3,000 persons. Remains of the ancient edifice are still seen in
-the remarkably plain pillars on each side of the nave. It contains
-several monuments and tablets, and amongst them one by Westmacott,
-erected to the memory of Paul Panton, Esq.
-
-Under the chancel are the vaults of the Mostyns of Talacre, the Pennants
-of Downing, and the Pantons of Bagillt; in the chancel is a neat
-cenotaph, in memory of Mary, mother of the late Edward Pennant, Esq. On
-the wall, at the end of the same aisle, is a flat stone with twelve
-quarterings, copied from those over the chimney-piece in the dining-room
-at Mostyn.
-
-In rebuilding the church, the headless figure of a priest was found in
-his sacerdotal habit, and with a chalice in his hand. He is supposed to
-have been Thomas, second son of Thomas ap David, abbot of Basingwerk.
-This headless trunk is often exhibited to the wondering as the image of
-the blessed St. Winefred! The service is alternately English and Welsh,
-and at night there are English lectures. Holywell contains several
-meeting-houses for the various denominations of dissenters. A new Roman
-Catholic chapel has lately been erected.
-
-The environs, which are studded with numerous handsome residences and
-gentlemen’s seats, abound with richly diversified scenery; and from the
-higher grounds are obtained extensive and varied prospects over the
-surrounding country, which is rich in picturesque beauty. The air is
-salubrious, and the opportunities of cold and sea-bathing, render it not
-only a pleasant place of permanent residence, but also of occasional
-resort for invalids, for whose comfort every accommodation is provided,
-with the benefit of good medical advice, and the advantage of numerous
-pleasant rides and walks in the immediate neighbourhood.—There are
-several good inns in the town, the principal of which are, the White
-Horse, King’s Arms, King’s Head, and the Red Lion.
-
-For many ages, the copious stream of St. Winefred served only to turn a
-corn-mill belonging to Basingwerk abbey, and it was not till the year
-1777 that Holywell began to emerge from obscurity, when Mr. Smalley
-introduced the cotton manufacture, and erected a mill on a principle
-similar to that of one built at Cromford, by Sir Richard Arkwright. Soon
-after this, Mr. Smalley was joined by an opulent company from Lancashire,
-and erected, in 1783, a larger mill, now called the upper mill, which
-worked 12,218 spindles; the same company, in 1787, built the lower mill,
-adapted to the working 7492 spindles, and in 1791, the crescent mill, in
-which 8286 spindles were kept in motion. These mills were applied to the
-spinning of cotton thread, of which 26,098lb was produced on an avenge
-weekly, furnishing employment to nearly one thousand persons. A great
-part of that trade has now left Holywell, and the buildings are applied
-to other branches of manufacture.
-
-There are, upon the same stream, several extensive copper mills, for
-rolling sheet copper, the manufacture of every description of copper
-vessels, copper bolts used in ship-building, and copper cylinders: there
-is also a mill for drawing copper wire, &c. Besides these, there are a
-large iron foundry, a paper mill, and zinc works.
-
-The district immediately around Holywell, is pre-eminently distinguished
-for the richness of its mineral treasures, and particularly for its mines
-of lead and calamine, which appear to have been worked from the earliest
-period, and continue still to form an almost inexhaustible source of
-wealth.
-
-
-Basingwerk Abbey,
-
-
-(Or Maes-glâs), called also Greenfield Monastery, is beautifully situated
-in a meadow, about a mile east of Holywell among rich meadows, commanding
-a fine view of the Cheshire shore, with a profusion of spreading
-sycamores, and groves of ancient trees on all sides. Its time-worn and
-crumbling ruins are, from some points of view, highly picturesque.
-
-The little at present left of the abbey is scarcely sufficient to
-indicate its former extent. The church, which stood on the east side, is
-totally destroyed.
-
-Near to the abbey, a castle formerly reared its towers, but of this
-scarcely a vestige remains visible. Close to this spot also runs the
-celebrated Watt’s Dyke, which terminates at the Dee below. It is clearly
-traced hence through Northop, Hope, Wrexham, and the grounds of Wynnstay,
-to Maesbury, near Oswestry, where it ends.—About three miles north-west
-of Holywell, is
-
-
-Downing,
-
-
-The seat of Viscount Fielding, who married, in June 1846, Miss Pennant,
-the heiress to the estate. The present house was built, probably on the
-site of an older mansion, in 1627, but has lately undergone great
-improvements. This hall was the birth-place and residence of the
-celebrated author, Mr. Thomas Pennant, whose antiquarian and
-topographical researches form an important contribution to the historical
-records of the country. The walks are agreeable and diversified,
-particularly in the immediate vicinity of the mansion, which is
-approached by a rural path, winding through a beautiful and well-wooded
-dingle. Much taste is displayed in the landscape gardening and
-horticultural arrangements of this little paradise.—About a mile and a
-half north-west of Downing, on the summit of a lofty hill, stands
-
-
-Mynydd-y-Garreg,
-
-
-An ancient circular building of great height, in form not much unlike a
-windmill. It is a _pharos_, or Roman light-house, erected by that people
-to conduct navigators to and from the Deva. It is tolerably entire, and
-built of lime-stone, bedded in hard mortar. The antiquary will not
-begrudge a walk to examine this ancient relique bequeathed to us by the
-conquerors of the world.—Two miles north-west of Downing, lies the
-ancient structure of
-
-
-Mostyn Hall,
-
-
-The property and residence of the Hon. Edward Mostyn Lloyd Mostyn, M.P.,
-nephew of the late Sir Thomas Mostyn, and heir apparent of Lord Mostyn,
-of Pengwern. The house is approached by a magnificent gateway, called
-Porth Mawr, erected at the termination of a venerable avenue of forest
-trees, leading to one vestibule of the mansion, which stands in a small
-but beautiful and well-wooded park, about half a mile from the estuary of
-the Dee. The mansion is worth the attention of the tourist and
-antiquary. It is of the Elizabethan age, though built upon the site of a
-former house erected in the reign of Henry the Sixth. In the spacious
-hall are several specimens of armour and implements of warfare previous
-to the introduction of fire-arms. The rooms are literally crowded with
-family portraits, by the old masters, the principal of which are Sir
-Roger and Lady Mostyn. There are several fine portraits of Charles the
-First, including an original by Vandyke. In the dining-room, the
-sideboard is formed of one piece of plank, quite a curiosity; it is
-nearly six feet wide, and twelve feet long; and is hewn, not sawed. The
-tapestry parlour is beautiful. The mansion is noted for the maintenance
-of English hospitality after the manner of “the olden time.”
-
-During the time that Henry, Earl of Richmond, was secretly conspiring the
-overthrow of the house of York, he passed concealed from place to place,
-in order to form an interest among the Welsh, who favoured his cause on
-account of their respect to his grandfather, Owen Tudor, their
-countryman. While he was at Mostyn, a party attached to Richard the
-Third arrived there to apprehend him. He was then about to dine, but had
-just time to leap out of a back window, and make his escape through a
-hole, which to this day is called the King’s Window. Richard ap Howel,
-then Lord of Mostyn, joined Henry at the battle of Bosworth: and after
-the victory, received from the King, in token of gratitude for his
-preservation, the belt and sword he wore on that day.
-
-There are many curious objects of antiquity at Mostyn, including a golden
-torque found at Harlech; a silver harp, in the possession of the family
-since 1568; the Mostyn pedigree; and the largest private collection of
-Welsh manuscripts in the Principality. The Gloddaeth library and
-manuscripts, as well as similar literary stores from other mansions of
-this family, have been brought here; for the reception of which, the hon.
-proprietor has erected a library worthy of the collection.
-
-To the treasures of Mostyn has also been added a splendid candelabrum
-valued at one thousand guineas, presented by the political friends of the
-Hon. Mr. Mostyn, who, on the day of the presentation, October 31, 1843,
-entertained the subscribers, amounting to several hundreds, in a manner
-worthy of the best days of the ancient, princely, loyal, and hospitable
-house of Mostyn.
-
-
-
-LLANASA,
-(_Flintshire_.)
-
-Holywell 6½
-Rhuddlan 6
-St. Asaph 10
-
-The village of Llanasa is situated in a pleasant valley at the northern
-extremity of the county, on the south-western shore of the estuary of the
-Dee. The church has two east windows, in the more ancient of which is
-some fine stained glass, brought from Basingwerk abbey. The church-yard
-contains some curious tomb-stones.—In the neighbourhood are several
-genteel residences, and about two miles from the village is
-
-
-Talacre,
-
-
-the seat of Sir Pyers Mostyn, a branch of the family of the Mostyns of
-Mostyn. The old house was built in the time of James the First; but when
-the late baronet came into possession of the estate, it was razed to the
-ground for the purpose of building another mansion on its site. The
-first stone of the new house was laid by Sir Edward Mostyn, on the 31st
-day of July, 1824. When the shell was completed, part of it was burnt
-down by an accidental fire on the night of the 11th of September, 1827;
-but it was soon rebuilt, and finished in a magnificent style. The house
-is an old English mansion, of truly handsome appearance, erected after a
-design and under the superintendence of Mr. T. Jones, architect, of
-Chester.—Within a short distance of Llanasa, and situated on an eminence
-near the confluence of the Dee with the Irish Sea, is
-
-
-Gyrn,
-
-
-built by the late John Douglas, Esq. It is a building in the castellated
-style of English architecture, having several lofty and elegant towers,
-from the summit of which the view is very extensive, commanding the
-surrounding hills, and those of Yorkshire, Derbyshire, and Staffordshire;
-the Isle of Man, Beeston Castle, Chester, and Liverpool, are also
-discernible; and, in the opposite direction, a small part of the
-Snowdonian chain may be observed.—About a mile from Llanasa, is
-
-
-Golden Grove,
-
-
-the admired residence of Edward Morgan, Esq., erected in 1578; but it has
-been considerably improved and enlarged within the last forty years. The
-house occupies a sheltered situation among the hills, whence the prospect
-is extensive and pleasing.
-
-
-
-LLANBERIS,
-(_Caernarvonshire_.)
-
-Beddgelert 12
-Caernarvon 10
-Capel Curig 10
-Dolbadarn 2
-
-This village, situated on the road between Caernarvon and Capel Curig,
-derives its name from the dedication of its church to St. Peris, a
-British, or, as some affirm, a Roman saint, who had been a cardinal of
-Rome, and is said to have resided in this celebrated spot with Padarn, an
-anchorite about the sixth century, who had a cell or small chapel, in a
-meadow between Dolbadarn castle, and old Dolbadarn inn, now called the
-“Snowdonia.”
-
-The church, situated in a deeply sequestered glen about half a mile above
-the upper lake, is a small, low structure, of the most primitive
-character.
-
-Near the church is the well of St. Peris, formerly famed for its
-miraculous efficacy in the cure of diseases, and therefore a place of
-resort with pilgrims and devotees.
-
-The parish of Llanberis is very large in extent, and is divided into two
-districts or townships, viz. Nant-ucha’, alias Nant-Peris, and Nant-isa’,
-alias Nant-Padarn, and comprises several of the loftiest mountains in the
-Principality, besides numerous natural objects worthy the research of the
-curious.
-
-The village of Llanberis is romantic in the extreme. It lies in a narrow
-grassy glen, surrounded by immense rocks, whose cloud-capped summits are
-seldom visible to the inhabitants below. All the parts immediately
-surrounding the village were formerly covered with wood; but, except some
-saplings from the old roots, there are at present very few trees left.
-In the memory of persons lately living, there were great woods of oak in
-several parts of these mountains. In the tenth century the whole country
-must have been nearly covered with wood, for one of the laws of Howel Dda
-(Howel the Good) directs that “whoever cleared away timber from any land,
-even without the consent of the owner, he should, for five years, have a
-right to the land so cleared; and after that time it should again revert
-to the owner.”
-
-The Pass of Llanberis presents a scene of wild grandeur and fearful
-sublimity, of the most impressive and majestic character.
-
-Amidst the vast ranges of these British Alps, are two beautiful lakes.
-The upper one at Llanberis, called also Llyn Peris, is about a mile in
-length, and nearly half of one in breadth; the depth is said, in places,
-to be one hundred and forty yards. The other, called Llyn Padarn, is
-about a mile and a half long, but so narrow as to assume rather the
-appearance of a river than a lake. Between these, a communication is
-formed by a stream, and out of the lower issues the river Seiont, which,
-after flowing in an irregular diffused manner, discharges itself into the
-Menai at Caernarvon. At the foot of the lower lake is a rural and
-picturesque stone bridge, leading to a most perfect Roman station, called
-Dinas Dinorwic, partly natural and partly artificial. It is in fine
-preservation.
-
-
-Dolbadarn,
-
-
-(Or Padarn’s Meadow), so called from Padarn, a British saint of obscure
-note. Since the opening of the new line of road from Caernarvon to Capel
-Curig, Llanberis has become the principal resort of parties visiting
-Snowdon. In addition to the spacious and comfortable inn at Dolbadarn, a
-new and more commodious house, the Royal Victoria Hotel, has been erected
-at the expense of T. A. Smith, Esq., near Dolbadarn castle, for the
-accommodation of the increased number of visitors whom this truly
-interesting district draws together in the summer months. The hotel is
-in a most eligible situation, at the junction of the two lakes, and
-within a few hundred yards of Dolbadarn castle, about two miles from the
-village of Llanberis, on the road from Caernarvon. Every facility for
-ascending Snowdon is here provided.
-
-The castle, standing near the junction of the two lakes of Llanberis, is
-the only one that remains in the narrow passes of North Wales. As it was
-impossible for an enemy to climb the chain of mountains, which are a
-guard to Caernarvonshire and Anglesea, and as there were five narrow
-passes, the British secured each with a castle: this was the central one.
-Owen Gôch was here confined upwards of twenty years, for having joined in
-a rebellion against his brother Llywelyn ap Gruffydd, the last prince of
-Wales. It seems to have been long in ruins, for in Leland’s time there
-was only part of a tower left. The key of the castle is kept at the
-Victoria Hotel, and may be had by tourists on application.
-
-The view hence is remarkably splendid, embracing the lakes, which extend
-nearly three miles, the various interesting objects by which they are
-surrounded, and the immense chains of rugged mountains that bound the
-vale. The view from the lake is also finely picturesque.
-
-About half a mile south of the castle, at the end of a deep glen, there
-is a tremendous cataract, called
-
-
-Ceunant Mawr,
-
-
-(The Waterfall of the Great Chasm.) It is upwards of sixty feet in
-height, and is formed by the mountain torrent from Cwm Brwynog, which
-rushes through a cleft in the rock above, and after coming in a direct
-line, suddenly takes a turn with the broad stratum of the rock, and thus
-descends aslant, with a thundering noise, into the deep black pool below.
-
-On the declivity of the mountain, and nearly opposite Dolbadarn castle,
-on the eastern side of the lake, are extensive slate quarries, the
-property of Thomas Assheton Smith, Esq., situated high among the rocks.
-The mode of conveying the slates down the almost precipitous descent, to
-the margin of the lake, was formerly singularly awkward, and apparently
-very dangerous. The carts, each conveying about one ton of slates in
-winter, and two in summer, were drawn down a serpentine path by one horse
-in front, and one hooked on behind, to counteract the rapidity of motion
-which otherwise would endanger the whole. From the lake the slates were
-carted in great quantities to the Menai, whence they were shipped to
-Ireland, Liverpool, America, &c. To avoid this great labour and danger,
-a railroad has been made from the quarries down to the shipping place at
-Velin Heli, on the Menai, a distance of about nine miles. By this road,
-the slates are conveyed down, at an average, it is said, of about 100
-tons daily throughout the year. At this place of activity, generally
-designated by the name of “Dinorwic Slate Quarry,” above a thousand men
-are usually employed.
-
-On the opposite side of the lake, and nearer to Caernarvon, at a place
-called Glyn Rhonwy, is another quarry, the property of Lord Newborough,
-worked by from 150 to 200 men; and the slates are conveyed by carts to
-Caernarvon.
-
-This little valley can also boast of its mineral treasures. A valuable
-copper mine is situated on the side of the upper lake, about half a mile
-from the village. A stream of water, for the use of the mine, is
-conveyed along the mountain on each side, and over the road, just at the
-head of a lake, by means of a wooden conduit, supported by piers. The
-ore obtained is, in general, what is termed rich, on an average worth
-from £20 to £25 per ton; but the value consequently varies with the price
-of copper.
-
-About two miles above Llanberis church, on the Capel Curig road, there is
-an immense stone, that has once been precipitated from above, called
-
-
-The Cromlech. {140}
-
-
-This stone is of some thousand tons weight, and many times larger than
-the celebrated mass of rock in Barrowdale, called Bowdar Stone. It lies
-in a place called Ynys Hettws (Hetty’s Island); and two of its sides
-meeting at an angle with the ground, it was once used as the habitation
-of an old woman, who in summer resided in the vale to feed and milk her
-cows. The enclosures are yet nearly entire, and are sometimes used as a
-sheepfold.
-
-
-Gorphwysfa,
-
-
-(The Resting Place), the top of the ascent between Llanberis and Capel
-Curig, four miles from the former, overlooks the glorious prospects
-before noticed. It also commands a view into the mountain pass which
-joins Nant Hwynan and the vale of Capel Curig. The vale of Llanberis is
-narrow and almost straight, nearly filled with two lakes, connected by a
-canal called Bala ’r Ddeulyn (the Junction of the two Lakes), celebrated
-(previous to the opening of the copper mines) for the abundance of the
-red and golden char. These fish are still caught in the lakes, though
-not so plentifully as formerly; the char is taken about the middle of
-September.
-
-
-Angling Stations.
-
-The upper and lower lakes (Bad sport).
-Llyn Cwm Dwythog 2 miles from Dolbadarn inn.
-Llyn Llydan 5 — on Snowdon.
-Glaslyn on the west of ditto.
-
-LLANDEGAI,
-(_Caernarvonshire_.)
-
-Aber 3½
-Bangor 2
-Conway 10
-Port Penrhyn 2
-
-Near to the grand entrance to Penrhyn Park, are the much admired church
-and little village of Llandegai, hidden from the immediate view by a high
-wall, extending some yards in the front. The parish is more than fifteen
-miles in length, from the shore of the Menai straits far into the
-mountainous regions of Snowdon, including a wide district, abounding with
-almost every species of mineral treasure. The scenery of the
-neighbourhood is beautifully picturesque and impressively grand,
-comprehending on one hand a vast amphitheatre of mountains, and on the
-other a fine view of the Menai Straits.
-
-The church is one of the neatest in the Principality, in the form of a
-cross, having a tower in the centre. Its style is Gothic, and it is
-supposed to have been erected about the reign of Edward the Third.
-Within the church is a mural monument to the memory of John Williams,
-lord keeper of the great seal in the reign of James the First, who died
-at Gloddaeth, and was interred in this church in 1650. He is represented
-in his episcopal dress, kneeling at the altar. There is also an elegant
-marble monument erected to the memory of the late Lord and Lady Penrhyn,
-executed by Westmacott. On one side it is supported by a female peasant,
-deploring the loss of the deceased, and on the other by a quarry-man,
-holding an iron bar and a slate knife, earnestly reading the inscription
-which commemorates his benefactor. Beneath are smaller figures, the
-first representing a boy feeding his goats on the mountains, emblematical
-of the state of the country when his lordship commenced his improvements;
-the second, two boys working in a slate quarry, emblematical of industry;
-the third is, one boy teaching another to read the Bible, emblematical of
-religious education; and the fourth, three boys with sickles in a wheat
-field, denoting plenty. Lord Penrhyn died in 1806.
-
-The following is a translation of the somewhat curious Latin inscription
-on the monumental record of the renowned Archbishop and Lord Chancellor
-Williams:—“Sojourner, read, and in these few words, particularly observe
-that which you would not expect to find in this obscure chapel. Here
-lies buried John Williams, the most renowned of prelates, descended by
-his father’s lineage from the Williams’s of Cochwillan, and by his
-mother’s from the Griffiths of Penrhyn, whose great parts and eminence in
-all kinds of learning raised him first to the deanery of Sarum, and
-afterwards advanced him to that of Westminster by the favour of King
-James. At one and the same time he was the most intimate favourite of
-and privy councillor to that great king, lord keeper of the great seal of
-England, and bishop of the see of Lincoln, whom Charles the First
-honoured with the archiepiscopal mitre of York. He was thoroughly versed
-in all sciences—a treasury of nine languages—the very soul of pure and
-undefiled theology—an oracle of political tact—the very acmé and ornament
-of wisdom, whether sacred, canonical, civil, or municipal. His
-conversation was engagingly sweet—his memory more tenacious than human—a
-repository of all species of history—expended in magnificent edifices the
-sum of £20,000,—an exemplary pattern of liberality, munificence,
-generosity, hospitality, and compassion for the poor. In those
-lamentable times which followed, being worn out with the things which he
-saw and heard, when, by reason of the fury of the rebels, he could no
-longer serve his king nor his country, having lived 68 years, on the 25th
-of March, which was his birthday, with strong faith in Christ, and
-steadfast allegiance to his king, he most devotedly resigned his soul to
-God, dying of a quinsy. It matters little that so small a monument,
-placed in this obscure spot, preserves the memory of so great a man,
-since years and ages shall never cease to celebrate his virtues. He died
-25th March, A.D. 1650.
-
-“Pass on, traveller, it is enough, your curiosity is gratified.”
-
-The ancient family residence, Cochwillan, is within a short distance of
-the church, and remains in much the same condition as when, “broken by
-the storms of state,” the good prelate here sought his final
-resting-place on earth.
-
-
-
-LLANDUDNO,
-(_Caernarvonshire_.)
-
-Abergele 16
-Conway 5
-
-Llandudno old church is situated near the promontory of Ormeshead, which
-forms the eastern boundary of the entrance into Beaumaris Bar. It has
-the appearance from the sea of a dilapidated cow-house. A new church has
-been erected on the side of the promontory, where the inhabitants
-principally reside. There are here several very valuable and extensive
-copper mines. The cliffs towards the sea are lofty and abrupt; and the
-whole scene wild and romantic in the extreme.
-
-On the centre of the mountain is a rocking stone, called Crŷd Tudno (or
-the Cradle of St. Tudno); and on an eminence are the ruins of a large
-square building, of which the walls, apparently constructed without
-mortar, lie scattered in various directions. On the highest part of the
-promontory, and near the Great Ormeshead, a signal staff has been
-erected, communicating with Llysfaen on the east, and Puffin Island on
-the west, forming thereby a post of communication between Liverpool and
-Holyhead. These hills and the neighbouring woods of Gloddaeth abound in
-rare and curious plants. The rock just above the village of Llandudno is
-the only habitation in Britain of the _cotoneaster vulgaris_, which grows
-here abundantly.
-
-The parish of Llandudno contains six hundred and sixty-two inhabitants.
-
-
-
-LLANEDWEN,
-(_Anglesea_.)
-
-Llanidan 2
-Moel-y-Don 3
-
-Llanedwen is a small village where Henry Rowlands, the learned author of
-Mona Antiqua Restaurata, was interred. He was instituted to the vicarage
-of this place in October, 1696, and died 1723. He lies under a black
-slab of Anglesea marble, in the south part of the church.
-
-
-
-LLANELIAN,
-(_Anglesea_.)
-
-Amlwch 8
-Beaumaris 20
-
-This is a small village on the eastern coast of Anglesea. The church,
-dedicated to St. Elian, is supposed to have been founded by the patron
-saint about 540; and adjoining to it is a small chapel, of very ancient
-foundation, measuring in its interior twelve feet by fifteen, called
-Myfyr, _the confessional_. A curious closet of wood, of an hexagonal
-form, called St. Elian’s closet, is yet left in the east wall, and is
-supposed to have served both the office of a communion table, and as a
-chest to contain the vestments and other utensils belonging to the
-chapel. Near to the door is placed Cyff Elian (Elian’s Chest), or
-poor-box. Superstitions devotees out of health send their offerings to
-the saint, which are put through a hole into the box.
-
-At Point Lynas, near this place, a light-house of considerable dimensions
-has been erected.
-
-
-
-LLANERCH-Y-MEDD,
-(_Anglesea_.)
-
-Amlwch 6
-Beaumaris 17
-Holyhead 16
-London 263
-
-Llanerch-y-medd is a considerable town, with a market on Wednesday,
-deriving its importance chiefly from its proximity to the Parys mountain,
-on the northern side of Anglesea. Here are the leading fairs for
-Anglesea oxen, and the south country dealers attend to make their
-purchases for the Kent and Sussex pastures. An establishment has been
-opened in this town for the manufacture of snuff, in imitation of the
-celebrated Lundy Foot, of Dublin. There is a small but comfortable inn
-here.
-
-Within one mile of the town is Llwydiaeth, the hospitable mansion of W.
-P. Lloyd, Esq. At a small distance is a rocking stone, held in great
-sanctity by the bards as a druidical remain.
-
-
-
-LLANERVUL,
-(_Montgomeryshire_.)
-
-Dolgelley 24
-Llanfair 5
-Machynlleth 25
-Mallwydd 13
-Newtown 14
-Welshpool 12
-
-This interesting little village is pleasantly situated on the banks of
-the river Banwy, and at the lower extremity of a narrow vale of about
-seven miles in length. The Cross Foxes Inn affords good accommodation.
-The situation of the village, being on the turnpike-road from Shrewsbury
-to Machynlleth and Dolgelley, causes it to be much enlivened in the
-summer season, by coaches passing through, conveying travellers to the
-bathing places at Aberystwyth and Barmouth.
-
-The parish, extending nearly eight miles in length, and about three in
-breadth, is divided into six townships, comprising a population of about
-1000, chiefly employed in agriculture. The lands are but partially
-enclosed and cultivated, the hilly parts affording only pasturage for
-sheep, young cattle, and Welsh ponies, during the summer; but the soil of
-the lower grounds is tolerably fertile, and when properly cultivated, is
-capable of producing grain of every kind. Within this parish, on the
-mountains, are several lakes of considerable extent and depth, and some
-of them containing great abundance of fish, chiefly trout and eels.
-
-The most ancient manor-house in these parts is Neuadd-wen (the
-White-hall). This was formerly the seat of Meredydd ab Cynan, brother of
-Gruffydd ab Cynan, Prince of North Wales, who served the Princes of
-Powys, and was termed Lord of Rhiw-hiriaeth, Coedtalog, and Neuadd-wen.
-Some genealogists say that he was Meredydd ab Cynvyn, and brother to
-Bleddyn ab Cynvyn, Prince of Powys. The estate of Neuadd-wen was divided
-and subdivided according to the custom of gavel kind, until the time of
-Evan ab Owen, the last of the line of Meredydd ab Cynan, whose two
-daughters were married, the one to the Llwydiarth family, the other to
-that of Newtown Hall. In a heap of rubbish, at the back of the present
-farm-house of Nauadd-wen, were found pieces of free stone, with
-mouldings, which appeared to be the ruins of an arched window. The
-building seemed to have been Gothic, according to the taste of the
-eleventh and twelfth century. It is probable that the name of Neuadd-wen
-was given to the new structure, for there is a tradition that its former
-appellation was Llŷs Wgan, which is corrobarated by the fact, that a
-rivulet near the house is still called Nant Wgan.
-
-Adjoining Neuadd-wen lies the capital farm of Llysyn, formerly the estate
-of Ieuan ab Bedo Gwyn, descendant of a cadet branch of the family of
-Neuadd-wen. This estate was afterwards purchased by the Herberts, and
-made the residence of some branch of that family, ancestors to the
-present Earl of Powys. The name of Llysyn seems to be a contraction of
-Llŷs-dyddyn (the Court-farm). Probably, the Princes of Powys had here a
-court of judicature.
-
-This parish contains the vestiges of several tumuli, forts, and ramparts,
-such as those at Moel-y-ddolwen, Gardden, Rhôs-y-gallt, &c.; but the most
-singular vestige of antiquity here is that of the Roman causeway, called
-Sarn-Sws, or Sarn-Swsen, which leads from the old Roman station of
-Caer-Sws, near Llanidloes, to Chester; or as some will have it, from
-Caerllëon-ar-Wysg, in Monmouthshire, to Caerllëon-ar-Ddyfr-dwy, or
-Chester on the Dee. This road enters the parish of Llanervul on the
-hills of the Drum, and thence descends through the farms of Cae’r-Bacha,
-Cynniwyll, &c., and crosses the river Banwy below Neuadd-wen, and then up
-Craig-y-gô, whence it proceeds through the parish of Llanvihangel; and
-Dr. Worthington says it might be traced through the parish of
-Llanrhaiadr-yn-Mochnant, at Street-Vawr, near Coed-y-Clawdd, over
-Rhôs-y-brithdir, to Pen-y-Street, and thence to Llamiwrch, &c. In some
-places the pavement may be found a little below the surface.
-
-The church of Llanervul is dedicated to Urval Santes, a female saint,
-whose pedigree is not known: some suppose that the ancient tomb-stone in
-the church-yard was erected to her memory, but the inscription by no
-means corroborates that supposition.
-
-Mrs. Priscilla Forster, a descendant of the family of the Herberts of
-Llysyn, bequeathed £300 for the instruction of the poor children of the
-parish: this sum was invested in the purchase of a farm near the village,
-now considered worth £35 per annum, which is appropriated agreeably to
-the intentions of the benevolent testatrix.
-
-
-
-LLANFAIR, {146}
-(_Anglesea_.)
-
-Llangefni 5
-Pentraeth 2½
-
-This village is celebrated as the birth-place of Goronwy Owen, of whom a
-Welsh author has said that “he was the greatest genius either of this
-age, or that ever appeared in our country; and perhaps few other
-countries can boast his equal for universal knowledge.” He was born in
-1722, had the rudiments of his education at the grammar-school of Bangor,
-whence, in 1741, he went to Oxford. Four years afterwards he received
-holy orders at Bangor, and became curate to the Bishop at Llanfair. He
-successively held the curacy of Donnington, near Shrewsbury, and Walton,
-near Liverpool: but having only a slender income, and being disappointed
-in his hopes of preferment, he emigrated to America. The taste, manners,
-and morals of the Virginians were offensive and disgusting to this son of
-sorrow. He lost by death his wife and children, all but one boy; and he
-himself, while but comparatively a young man, sank to the grave under the
-pressure of accumulated misfortunes. To a perfect acquaintance with the
-Latin and Greek languages, he added a knowledge of the Hebrew, Chaldee,
-Arabic, and Syriac. His Latin odes have been universally admired for the
-purity of their language, and for the elegance of their expression. As a
-Welsh poet he ranks superior to all since the days of Dafydd ap Gwilym.
-Those parts of his works which have been printed are considered as
-perfect models of Welsh poetry. It has been lately stated that a
-grandson of the bard is now living in the United States, and is a member
-of the congress.
-
-
-
-LLANFAIR,
-(_Montgomeryshire_.)
-
-Can-Office 7
-Dinas-Mowddwy 18
-Mallwyd 16
-Newtown 10
-Oswestry 20
-Welshpool 8
-
-Llanfair, or Llanfair-Caer-Einion, a small market town pleasantly
-situated on the declivity of an eminence, rising from the south bank of
-the small river Banwy, which falls into the Vyrnwy, and on the turnpike
-road leading from Welshpool to Machynlleth and Dolgelley, containing 2687
-inhabitants. It has a church dedicated to St. Mary, an ancient
-structure; and five places of worship for dissenters. The Vyrnwy abounds
-with such a quantity and variety of fish, as justly to entitle it to the
-name of _amnis piscosus_. The inhabitants of this place are said to
-excel in the practice of spearing fish.
-
-
-Angling Stations.
-
-Myfod (Meivod) 5 miles on the Vyrnwy.
-Llangynyw 2½ „
-Llanervul 5 „
-
-LLANFYLLYN,
-(_Montgomeryshire_.)
-
-London 178
-Mallwyd 20
-Oswestry 14
-Shrewsbury 25
-Welshpool 12
-
-A market town of some note, situate in a fertile valley on the banks of
-the river Cain, surrounded by lofty hills. The market is held on
-Thursday. Population, 1955.
-
-In the centre of the town stands the church, which was erected when the
-excellent Dr. Beveridge was bishop of the diocese; it is a neat brick
-building, dedicated to St. Myllyn. The peal of bells surpasses any in
-the county. Here are three endowed schools; and a good town hall was
-built in 1775.
-
-Bôd Fach, near this town, the seat of Lord Mostyn, was once the residence
-of his paternal ancestors, the Kyffins. The markets and fairs of
-Llanfyllyn are well attended, particularly for the purchase of Welsh
-merlins, which are brought here for sale in great numbers.
-
-
-
-LLANGEFNI,
-(_Anglesea_.)
-
-Beaumaris 12
-Llanerch-y-Medd 7
-Menai Bridge 7
-Mona Inn 3
-
-This is a small but neat market town centrally situated in the island.
-The markets and fairs are of considerable importance. It is one of the
-contributory boroughs; the present M.P. being Col. Paget. There is a
-neat church under the hill, and the town is romantically situated. The
-principal inn is Pen-y-bont.
-
-Tregarnedd, now only a farm-house, but once the residence of Ednyfed
-Vychan, an able chieftain to Llywelyn the Great, is in this parish.
-
-About three miles distant on the Llanerch-y-medd road is Tregaian, the
-residence of Vice-Admiral Lloyd. Not far off is Maen Rhos Rhyfel, where
-Owen Gwynedd obtained a signal victory over an invading army of Erse,
-Manksmen, and Normans. The population of Llangefni is 1753.
-
- [Picture: Llangollen bridge]
-
-
-
-LLANGOLLEN,
-(_Denbighshire_.)
-
-Chester 23
-Chirk 7
-Corwen 10
-London 183
-Oswestry 12
-Ruabon 6
-Ruthin 15
-Wrexham 12
-
-The name of this place is derived from the dedication of its church to an
-ancient British saint named Collen, whose lineage runs thus, in names
-almost unpronounceable by Saxon tongues—St. Collen ap Gwynnawg ap Clydawg
-ap Cowrda ap Caredog Freichfras ap Llyr Merim ap Einion Yrth ap Cunededd
-ap Wledig. The town, which is beautifully situated in a deep narrow
-valley, enclosed by lofty mountains, and watered by the noble stream of
-the Dee, appears anciently to have been protected by the neighbouring
-fortress of Castell Dinas Bran, situated on the summit of a vast conical
-hill in its neighbourhood. The houses are in general old or rather mean
-in appearance, though occasionally interspersed with some modern handsome
-dwellings; and there is excellent accommodation for the numerous visitors
-who frequent the neighbourhood during the summer season. The pure air
-and mild temperature cause a number of families to adopt this locality as
-a permanent retreat. The Hand, the King’s Head and Royal Hotel, are the
-two principal inns. Population, 1500.
-
-Here is a stone bridge over the Dee, consisting of four pointed arches,
-erected in the year 1345, by John Trevor, Bishop of St. Asaph, and which
-was anciently regarded as one of the wonders of North Wales. The scenery
-of the neighbourhood is pre-eminent for its grandeur and sublimity, and
-for its picturesque and romantic beauty.
-
-The church is an ancient structure, with small pretensions to
-architectural beauty, except some fine carvings on the roof and other
-parts of the interior. The view from the churchyard is remarkably
-pretty, embracing the bridge, the weir, and Crow Castle. The talented
-and self taught clerk, Mr. Jones, may be consulted by writers with
-profit, as a person of considerable attainments and general information.
-The church services are alternately in the Welsh and English language.
-
-The market is held on Saturday, and is well supplied with butcher’s meat,
-but very little corn is sold. By the late act for amending the
-representation, Llangollen has been made a polling-place in the election
-of knights for the shire.
-
-
-Llangollen Vale,
-
-
-a district long celebrated in prose and verse for its varied beauties, is
-bounded on each side by lofty mountains of imposing grandeur. It is
-certainly a charming and romantic spot; and though not so grandly
-impressive, or so surpassingly beautiful as some of the other Welsh
-valleys, its lovely features become more attractive on a familiar
-acquaintance. A remarkable range of lime-stone hills, called the
-Eglwyseg Rocks, adds a singular variety to the landscape. It is almost
-needless to observe that “Llangollen, that sweetest of vales,” is the
-scene of the home of “Jenny Jones,” whose charms are sung in Charles
-Matthews’ popular ballad.—In this vale, and within a quarter of a mile
-from the town, stands
-
-
-Plas Newydd,
-
-
-the famed retreat of Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby, better known,
-probably, as _the two recluses_ of Llangollen Vale. These two females,
-delighted with the scenery around Llangollen, when it was little known to
-the rest of the world, sought here, about the year 1778, a philosophical
-retirement from the frivolities of fashionable life, and selected and
-improved a dwelling that commands a fine mountain prospect, which
-obtained the name of Plâs Newydd. This elegant little cottage is
-situated on a small knoll, and surrounded by very tasteful grounds.
-
-The peculiar style in which these ladies decorated their retreat has been
-much discussed. A palisade, ornamented with antique and grotesque
-figures carved in oak, enclosed the front; and the doors and windows were
-decorated with carving of the same material. The rooms were tastefully
-adorned with drawings. A carriage drive, open to strangers, crosses the
-lawn immediately in front of the cottage. Lady Eleanor Butler died June
-2, 1829, at the advanced age of 90, and Miss Ponsonby, Dec. 9, 1831, aged
-76: both were interred in the churchyard of Llangollen. To their memory
-is erected a monument of unique and elegant structure. It has three
-sides, on each of which there is an appropriate epitaph; one for Lady
-Eleanor Butler, another for Miss Ponsonby, and the other for their
-youthful servant, Mary Carrol, who had accompanied them from Ireland, the
-country of their birth, to this delightful retirement.
-
-The whole property was consigned to the hammer in 1832, and was purchased
-by two other maiden ladies, viz. Miss Lolly and Miss Andrew, who seemed
-inclined to emulate the retirement of its former possessors.
-
-There are many other genteel villas and country residences, within a
-convenient distance of the town, deserving of notice.
-
-
-Castell Dinas Bran
-
-
-is situated on a high and somewhat conical hill, about a mile from
-Llangollen. The building has been about a hundred yards long, and fifty
-in breadth; and it formerly occupied the whole crown of the mountain.
-From its extremely elevated situation (being about 910 feet above the
-surface of the Dee at Llangollen bridge), it must have been a place of
-vast strength. On the side which is most accessible, it was defended by
-trenches cut through the solid rock. The present remains consist of
-nothing more than a few shattered walls. There is a well of pure water
-on the top of the hill.
-
-The views hence on every side are very grand. Towards the east stretches
-the whole vale of Llangollen, through which the Dee foams over its rocky
-bed; and beyond the vale is seen all the flat and highly cultivated
-country that extends for many miles. Just beneath lies the town of
-Llangollen, and towards the west is the vale of Crucis, with its
-back-ground of lofty mountains, whose dark sides are agreeably varied
-with wood and meadow. This fortress, from the style of its architecture,
-is evidently the work of the Britons; but by whom built, or when
-demolished, is a matter of mystery. Old Churchyard, who visited it in
-the sixteenth century, calls it “an old ruynous thing.”
-
-
-Vale Crucis Abbey,
-
-
-or, as it is called by the Welsh, _Monachlog Llan Egwestl_, about two
-miles from Llangollen, and one mile and a half from Castell Dinas Bran,
-on the right of the road towards Ruthin, is a grand and majestic ruin,
-affording some noble specimens of ancient Gothic architecture. There are
-still remaining of the church the east and west ends, and the south
-transept. Several pillars and arches also remain as interesting
-memorials of this exquisite relic of a past age.
-
-The cloister on the south side, which a century ago, was only a shell, is
-now converted into a dwelling-house, the residence of the person who
-farms the adjacent lands. Three rows of groined arches, on single round
-pillars, support the dormitory, which is now a loft for containing corn,
-approached by steps from without. The area of the church is overgrown
-with tall ash trees, which hide from the sight some part of the ruin, but
-contribute greatly to its picturesque beauty.
-
-Vale Crucis was a house of Cistercian monks, dedicated to the Virgin
-Mother. It was indebted for its foundation, about the year 1200, to
-Madoc ap Griffith Maelor, Lord of Bromfield and Dinas Brân, who, after
-various successes, and acquiring much booty by the reduction and ruin of
-English castles, dedicated a portion of his booty to the service of
-religion. He was interred here. At the dissolution the revenues appear
-to have amounted to about £200 per annum. A short time ago, the burial
-place of the monks was accidentally discovered, in the garden at the back
-of the farm-house, where many of their remains were found, which must
-have been there in an undisturbed state for six hundred years.
-
-
-Pillar of Eliseg.
-
-
-The Vale of Crucis is indebted for its name to this cross or pillar,
-which is to be found in a field near the abbey, and just opposite to the
-second mile-stone from Llangollen. This pillar is very ancient. The
-Rev. John Price, Bodleian librarian, (uncle of Dr. Price of Llangollen,)
-a great antiquary, wrote to Mr. Lloyd, of Trevor Hall, respecting this
-long neglected pillar, and at his suggestion it was placed in the
-position it now occupies. It appears to have been erected upwards of a
-thousand years ago, in memory of Eliseg (the father of Brochwel
-Yscythrog, Prince of Powys, who was slain at the battle of Chester in
-607), by Concenn or Congen, his great grandson. The inscription is much
-defaced, so that it cannot be satisfactorily traced. The shaft was once
-above twelve feet long, but having been thrown down and broken, sometime
-during the civil wars, its upper part, only about eight feet in length,
-was left. After these commotions, it was suffered to lie neglected for
-more than a century.
-
-
-Post Cysylltau, or Cysylltau Aqueduct.
-
-
-From Llangollen, most tourists visit this stupendous work of art. It is
-a wonderful effort of ingenious contrivance, and affords a convincing
-proof of the incalculable capability of human energies when directed by
-science. This aqueduct was constructed for the purpose of conveying the
-Ellesmere canal over the river and vale of the Dee. It was commenced in
-1795, from designs by Mr. Telford, and completed in ten years. Its
-direction is from north to south, crossing the Dee at right angles; and
-it forms, in connexion with the exquisite scenery surrounding it, a noble
-and magnificent picture. To view it to the best advantage, the stranger
-must descend on one side of it, into the valley beneath; he will then be
-impressed with its stupendous character. Though the aqueducts of the
-Romans were superior in length, in other respects they were inferior to
-this modern structure.
-
-The tourist may proceed along the high road towards Chirk, four miles
-from the town, where a turning to the left will conduct him to Pont
-Cysylltau Aqueduct; or crossing the bridge at Llangollen, ascend the hill
-to the canal, and walk along its banks till he arrives at the aqueduct.
-The high road is preferable, as it commands some engaging prospects.
-
-The aqueduct, in length 1007 feet, consists of nineteen arches, each 45
-feet in the span, with the addition of 10 feet 6 inches of iron work in
-continuation at each end. The supporting piers are stone, of a pyramidal
-shape, measuring at the base 21 feet by 14 feet wide; but diminishing
-upwards to 12 feet by 7 at the top; and their height about 116 feet.
-Over this immense arcade is extended a trough, or large open caisson,
-made of cast iron, 11 feet 10 inches broad, by which the water of the
-canal is conveyed over the river 1009 feet to the opposite level. Two
-iron plates are screwed together from centre to centre of each arch; and
-along one side of the canal is a towing path, four feet in breadth, with
-a handsome iron balustrade, as a defence for man and horse. The
-elevation collectively will stand thus:—
-
- Feet. Inches.
-Height of piers 116 0
-Depth of trough, or caisson 5 6
-Height of balustrade 4 7
- Total height from surface of the Dee 126 1
-
-At the southern end is an embankment of earth, 1500 feet in length, and
-seventy-five feet in height nearest the abutment of the arches. The
-whole undertaking is said to have cost £47,069 : 6 : 7.
-
-On the centre arch is the following inscription:—“The nobility and gentry
-of the adjacent counties, having united their efforts with the great
-commercial interest of this country, in creating an intercourse and union
-between England and North Wales, by a navigable communication of the
-three rivers, Severn, Dee, and Mersey, for the mutual benefit of
-agriculture and trade, caused the first stone of this aqueduct of Pont
-Cyssyllte to be laid on the 25th day of July, MDCCXCV, when Richard
-Myddelton, of Chirk, Esq., one of the original patrons of the Ellesmere
-canal, was Lord of the Manor, and in the reign of our Sovereign George
-the Third; when the equity of the laws and the security of property
-promoted the general welfare of the nation, while the arts and sciences
-flourished by his patronage, and the conduct of civil life was improved
-by his example.”
-
-The antiquarian will find some interesting remains in this neighbourhood
-worthy of investigation. Amongst them is a square tower, very strongly
-built, in advance of and at the foot of the hill on which Crow Castle
-stands. For many years it has been appropriated as part of a farm-house,
-called ‘The Tower.’ The walls of the original building or tower are very
-thick; and in one corner of the quadrangle there is a winding stone
-staircase, now concealed by a bookcase. The probability is that this old
-tower was an advanced station belonging to the castle. There are also
-vestiges of a nunnery or monastery at a place called Pengwern.
-
-About six miles from Llangollen, on the Ruthin road, is a curious old
-building, called Rhydidris, near Llandaglan. The site, the extensive
-stabling, and the antique curiosities in the house, raise the probability
-that it has been garrisoned, and also been a military station of great
-importance.
-
-The Shrewsbury and Chester Railway Company intend to run a branch from
-their main line at Ruabon to Llangollen.
-
-
-Angling Stations.
-
-The Dee from Corwen to Llangollen.
-“ “ from Llangollen to Overton.
-
-LLANGYNOG,
-(_Montgomeryshire_.)
-
-Bala 11
-Llanfyllyn 7
-Llanrhaiadr 6
-
-Llangynog (the church of St. Cynog) is a small village, situated in a
-pleasing slip of fertile land, above which rises a stupendous rock of
-coarse slate. The river Tanat, which runs through this village, is
-celebrated for its delicious trout. The upper end of the vale is bounded
-by two vast precipices; between them juts out the rude promontory of Moel
-ddu Vawr. On the north side of this valley is the house of
-Llechwend-garth, the occasional residence of the late Thomas Thomas, Esq.
-of Downing, near Holywell, whose daughter married H. Davies Griffith,
-Esq. of Caer-Rhûn, Caernarvonshire, who, in consequence, became possessed
-of this estate, and was in 1835 high sheriff of the county of Montgomery.
-The new inn affords tolerable accommodations.
-
-At Craig-y-Mwyn. somewhat more than two miles from the village, in 1692,
-a vein of lead ore was discovered, so valuable as to yield to the Powys
-family a clear revenue of at least £20,000 a year. It had been worked to
-the depth of about one hundred yards, when on a sudden the water broke in
-with such continuous power, that the proprietor was compelled to abandon
-the undertaking. About the commencement of the present century, however,
-the mine was leased by a company, who drove a level beneath it, in order
-to draw off the water, and continued the working of it for some time;
-they occasionally found masses of pure ore, weighing from 70 to 1001b.
-each. After some time the works were again discontinued, until a few
-years ago, when the old shaft was reopened, and the operations proceeded
-with considerable success.
-
-At Craig-y-Gribin, in this parish, are some quarries of excellent blue
-slate, of strong and durable quality.
-
-
-
-LLANHAIARN,
-(_Caernarvonshire_.)
-
-Caernarvon 13
-Pwllheli 7
-
-This is a small village, situated near the west coast of the promontory
-of Lleyn. Its church, standing on an eminence, forms a good
-land-mark.—Between this place and the sea, the lofty range of the Rival
-(or Yr Eifl) Mountains, which form conspicuous objects from Caernarvon
-and other parts of the country. Upon the first of these eminences, about
-a mile from Llanhaiarn, is Tre ’r Caeri (or the Town of Fortresses),
-which Mr. Pennant describes as “the most perfect and magnificent, as well
-as the most artfully constructed British post he ever behold.” The only
-accessible side was defended by three walls, which appear to have been
-very lofty. The area is irregularly shaped, and near the centre is a
-square space surrounded by the fragments of habitations.
-
-
-
-LLANIDAN,
-(_Anglesea_.)
-
-Caernarvon 3
-Llanedwen 2
-Menai Bridge 6
-Plas Newydd 3
-
-Llanidan is a little village, near the shores of the Menai, not far from
-the spot where the Romans landed, headed by Suetonius Paulinus, who
-murdered the Britons by thousands. It is called, by Rowlands, Maes Mawr
-Gad (the Great Army’s Field). It lies three hundred yards from the
-Menai, and consists of about twenty acres. The Romans entered the water
-about two hundred yards south of Llanfair-is-caer church, where the shore
-is flat, the water shallow, and only three quarters of a mile wide. At
-low water, and at neap tide, most of the bed is dry.
-
-After the death of Nero, in the year 67, the natives, after six years of
-thraldom, threw off the Roman yoke, the Druids returned and assumed their
-authority and property, which they held till the year 76; when Agricola
-crossed the Menai, nearly a mile farther north, landed at a field yet
-called Pont or Pant-yr-Yscraffiau (Bridge of Boats), where the same
-tragedy was re-acted in this and the two adjoining fields.
-
-The locality abounds with an interesting variety of druidical remains.
-Lord Boston has a residence and a park here: the house is a clumsy
-building, but the situation is most pleasant.
-
-
-
-LLANIDLOES,
-(_Montgomeryshire_.)
-
-Aberystwyth 30
-Devil’s Bridge 19
-London 193
-Machynlleth 20
-Newtown 14
-Plinlimmon 7
-
-Llanidloes (the Church of St. Idloes) is pleasantly situated near the
-Severn. The population of the whole parish is 4261, including 2562
-inhabitants of the town, who are principally employed in spinning and
-weaving of flannels, the manufacture of which has been established in
-this town from a very early period, and has continued materially to
-increase; the softest and most durable texture is made here. The
-principal inn is the New Inn, an excellent and well conducted
-establishment, where post-chaises and other vehicles may be had; the
-Queen’s Head, Red Lion, and the Crown, are also respectable houses, where
-travellers may be well accommodated. By the late Reform Act, this town
-was made one of the contributory boroughs of the county.
-
-The church was originally founded towards the close of the fifth or at
-the beginning of the sixth century. Of the original building the towers
-only remain. The present structure was built about 200 years ago. In
-1816, the chancel and south wall were rebuilt; at the same time the
-church was renewed; and a set of new bells was hung in the tower in 1824.
-As is usual in all the Welsh towns, there are places of worship for
-various dissenting congregations. The market-day is on Saturday.
-
-A few years ago, a handsome stone bridge of three arches was erected over
-the Severn, at a considerable expense; and a new and excellent line of
-road was opened from hence to Rhaiadr, which makes a direct and regular
-communication between North and South Wales. Lord Mostyn is lord of the
-manor; a court leet is held once a year, at Michaelmas, when officers are
-appointed, in whom the government of the place is vested. In the
-vicinity of the town are several handsome residences, the property of
-opulent individuals.
-
-Within eight miles of Llanidloes, in the parish of Llanbrynmair, are two
-fine waterfalls, near to each other, of which the principal, called Ffrwd
-Vawr, is very grand, especially after heavy rains; the water having a
-perpendicular descent of more than one hundred and thirty feet.
-
-
-Plinlimmon.
-
-
-Within the limits of Llanidloes parish is partly included the lofty
-mountain of Plinlimmon, (or, more properly, Plumlumon, the five-peaked
-mountain) which is the highest in the several chains, of which it forms
-the centre: and from this place the ascent to its summit is usually made,
-being only seven miles distant from the town, whence guides from the
-principal inns are provided. From the highest point is obtained a fine
-prospect of vast extent, comprehending on the south, the hills of
-Cardiganshire and Radnorshire; on the west, Cardigan bay and St. George’s
-channel; on the north, Cader Idris and part of the Snowdon range of
-mountains, separating the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth; on the
-north-east, the Breiddyn hills, in Montgomeryshire; and on the east, part
-of the counties of Hereford and Salop. This mountain derives a
-considerable degree of interest from its giving rise to the rivers
-Severn, Wye, Rheidiol, and Llyvn-nant; of which the former is secondary
-only to the Thames in commercial importance; whilst the Wye and the
-Rheidiol surpass all other rivers in Britain for the picturesque beauty
-of their scenery.
-
-The Severn, here called by its ancient British name of Havren, rises on
-the northern side of the mountain, in a stony chalybeate spring, and is
-speedily joined and increased by other springs rising near to its source,
-and by several mountain torrents, before it reaches Llanidloes.
-
-The Wye rises from two powerful springs on the south-eastern side of the
-mountain, and after a long circuitous course, falls into the Severn near
-Chepstow.
-
-The Rheidiol has its source in a pool called Llyn Llygad Rheidiol, and
-falls into the sea at Aberystwyth.
-
-The Llyvn-nant issues from a pool called Glâs Llyn.
-
-About twenty years ago, Llyn Llygad was entirely without fish. Two
-gentlemen, one of whom was the late Captain Jones, R.N., of Machynlleth,
-were grousing on Plinlimmon, when the conversation turned on the
-peculiarity of this lake being entirely destitute of the finny tribe, and
-the possibility of stocking it from a neighbouring rivulet. A staff net
-was procured, and some dozens of small trout caught in the river Rheidiol
-were thrown into the lake, which at that time swarmed with millions of
-horse leeches. Some of the trout, when placed in the pool, lay upon
-their sides faint and exhausted: and strange as it may appear, the
-rapacious leeches attached themselves to the sick fish, and actually
-devoured them. Others of the trout were vigorous; these and their
-progeny have enforced the _lex talionis_ with a vengeance; and while the
-fish abound, not a leech is now to be seen.
-
-At Melin Velindre, on the route to Plinlimmon, is a romantic cataract,
-and near a sheep farm, called Blaen Havren, the Severn rolls its waters
-over a lofty ledge of slate rocks, in which gullies have been found of
-picturesque shapes.
-
-About two miles from the town, on the south-east, is a spacious pool,
-called Llyn-ebyr, extending over a surface of nearly one hundred acres;
-it abounds with pike, eels, and perch, and affords excellent fishing; it
-is frequented by wild fowl; and during the summer season it is the resort
-of parties of pleasure, for whose accommodation boats belonging to
-gentlemen in the vicinity are kept on the pool.
-
-
-Angling Stations.
-
- _Distance from Llanidloes_. _Miles_.
-The Clywedog
-Bodaioch, on the Tavannon 5
-Glan Trevnant 5
-Llandinam 6½
-Llangurig 5
-
-LLANRHAIADR,
-(_Denbighshire_.)
-
-Denbigh 4
-Ruthin 4
-
-Llanrhaiadr (the Village of the Cataract), on the road between Ruthin and
-Denbigh, is situated on a small eminence in the fertile vale of Clwyd.
-It derives its name from a spring at a short distance, called Ffynnon
-Ddyfrog, where once was a bath and chapel, dedicated to St. Ddyfrog.
-
-The church is a very interesting and handsome structure. On the east
-window is a painting of the genealogy of Christ from Jesse, executed
-about 1533. In the church-yard is a curious inscription to John ap
-Robert, whose pedigree is traced up to Cadell, king of Powys.
-
-The scenery, both to Denbigh and Ruthin, is all the way extremely
-beautiful.
-
-
-
-LLANRHAIADR-YN-MOCHNANT,
-(_Denbighshire_.)
-
-Bala 18
-Llanfyllyn 5
-Llangynog 6
-Oswestry 14
-
-This is a small village situated at the extremity of the county, in a
-deep hollow, surrounded by mountains.
-
-Dr. William Morgan, the first translator of the Bible into Welsh, was
-vicar of this place. He was promoted to the bishopric of Llandaff, and
-in 1601 to that of St. Asaph, where he died in 1604. This valley is
-called Mochnant, (the Vale of the Rapid Brook) at the extremity of which,
-distant from the village about four miles and a half, is
-
-
-Pistyll Rhaiadr,
-
-
-(The Spout of the Cataract) reputed to be the largest waterfall in Wales.
-The little river Rhaiadr here falls down an almost perpendicular black
-crag, of 240 feet in height. For about two-thirds of this space, the
-water slides down the flat face of a naked rock; it rages thence through
-a natural arch, and, passing between two prominent sides, falls into a
-basin. It then passes though a well-wooded dell, forming a boundary line
-which separates the counties of Denbigh and Montgomery, and after
-assisting to form some pretty scenes, falls into the Tanat. Near to the
-waterfall is a neat inn, built in the Gothic style, by Sir W. W. Wynn,
-where the stranger may meet with tolerable accommodation.
-
-
-
-LLANRWST,
-(_Denbighshire_.)
-
-Abergele 22
-Bettws-y-Coed 4
-Cerniogau 14
-Capel Curig 10
-Conway 12
-Denbigh 22
-Llanrhychwyn 2½
-London 218
-Maen-Twrog 20
-
-This town is pleasantly situated on the western bank of the river Conway,
-which here forms the boundary between the counties of Denbigh and
-Caernarvon, in the spacious and beautiful vale of Llanrwst, environed by
-majestic and well-wooded hills, the land at the foot of which is
-plentifully watered and remarkably fertile. The town consists
-principally of small houses and shops, with a population of 3905
-inhabitants. It has a market on Tuesday, and a branch of the North and
-South Wales bank. The Eagles is the principal inn; but a good house of
-public entertainment is sadly wanted here.
-
-The bridge over the Conway, leading to Gwydir, is an elegant structure,
-built about the year 1636, from a plan by the celebrated Inigo Jones, at
-an expense of £1000, defrayed conjointly by the two counties which it
-connects. It is an extraordinary fact that a vibration of the bridge may
-be caused by any person standing above the middle arch and forcing
-himself rather smartly against the parapet.—Excellent roads have lately
-been made, communicating with the London, Holyhead, and Chester roads,
-and also with Denbigh and St. Asaph, the improved state of which has
-induced a considerable increase of visitors, during the summer months, to
-view the picturesque and much admired scenery of this neighbourhood.
-
-Llanrwst was formerly noted for making harps; at present the spinning of
-woollen yarn, and the knitting of stockings, constitute the principal
-branches of trade. In the market-place stands the town-hall, a
-substantial structure, rebuilt in 1842.
-
-The original church, dedicated to St. Grwst, was a small edifice,
-situated close to the margin of the river, and built about the year 1170;
-and was supposed, from its style of architecture, to have been erected in
-the fifteenth century: it contained a screen of beautifully carved oak,
-brought here from the abbey of Maenan, which was used as a gallery for
-the singers. A new church has, however, been built on its site; and
-adjoining it, on the other side, is Gwydir chapel, a handsome square
-castellated edifice, the interior of which is decorated with a profusion
-of carved work; it was built by Sir Richard Wynne, from a design by Inigo
-Jones, in 1633, as a burial place for his family, the deceased members of
-which had previously been interred in the chancel, and contains many
-elegantly engraved brasses, exhibiting portraits of several of this
-family. On the eastern wall is a slab of white marble, recording the
-pedigree of the founder, and tracing his ancestors to Owen Gwynedd,
-prince of North Wales. On the southern wall is a mutilated monument to
-the memory of Sir John Wynne, Bart., a learned antiquary, and an
-indefatigable gleaner of materials for the illustration of Welsh history.
-In the centre of the chapel, upon the floor, lies the stone coffin of
-Llywelyn the Great, who died in 1240, and was interred in the abbey which
-he had founded at Aberconway, thence removed to Maenan, and from that
-place, at the dissolution, the coffin was brought to the old parish
-church of Llanrwst, where it remained obscured by rubbish, until placed
-in its present more appropriate situation. The same attention has
-likewise been paid to another piece of antiquity placed near it, a
-recumbent armed effigy of Howel Coetmor, grandson of Davydd, brother to
-Llywelyn ap Gruffydd; he was the owner of the Gwydir estate, which was
-sold by one of his descendants to the family of Wynne. There are in the
-parish eleven places of worship for dissenters. A new church, called by
-the inhabitants the English church, has lately been erected about half a
-mile from Llanrwst. It is a neat and commodious edifice.
-
-
-Gwydir.
-
-
-This ancient mansion, about half a mile distant from the town,
-beautifully situated amidst extensive woods of oak, which clothe the
-rocks projecting between the rivers Conway and Llugwy, near the foot of a
-lofty precipice called Carreg y Gwalch, or the Rock of the Falcon, was
-erected by John Wynne ab Meredydd, in 1555, and comprised an extensive,
-but somewhat irregular pile of buildings, ranged in a quadrangular style,
-and consisting of an inner and outer court. A great part of this edifice
-was taken down in 1816, since which time the present structure, though on
-a much smaller scale, has been built. A small portion of the former
-mansion still remains, and is fitted up in an antique and elegant style.
-That part which was built by Meredydd still remains, and contains some
-magnificent rooms, in which are several articles of furniture made from
-the druidical oaks of ancient times, and the cradle which nurtured Sir
-John and Sir Richard Wynne is still to be seen. The pleasure grounds are
-laid out with great taste, and contain a good collection of plants. Mary
-Wynne, afterwards Duchess of Ancaster, the last of this great race,
-conveyed the property to that family, and Lord Willoughby d’Eresby now
-possesses it in right of his lady.
-
-
-Vale of Llanrwst.
-
-
-This delightful vale, which is neither so widely extended as the Vale of
-Clwyd, nor so contracted as that of Llangollen, is regarded by the
-admirers of picturesque scenery, as exhibiting the most varied assemblage
-of beautiful features which the pencil could delineate. Mr. Burke has
-pronounced it “the most charming spot in Wales.” The prospect of the
-dense woods and towering hills which enclose it on each side, is
-enlivened by the sparkling waters of the sportive Conway, which present
-an animated scene, either of small vessels arriving at the village of
-Trefriw, or of the diminutive boats, called coracles, used in fishing for
-salmon and smelts, considerable quantities of which are caught in their
-respective seasons. At Mayne, within a mile of Llanrwst, is a spring of
-high repute, and frequently used with great effect as a cold bath.
-
-In the valley called Nant Bwlch yr Haiarn, near Gwydir, is a cataract
-which falls about 100 feet, called Rhaiadr-y-Parc Mawr. The quantity of
-water, however, is seldom large enough to produce much effect. About two
-miles and a half from Llanrwst, on the Conway road, is the small but
-beautiful village of
-
-
-Trefriw,
-
-
-situated on an eminence commanding a delightful and extensive view of the
-Vale of Llanrwst. Near and above this lovely spot is the celebrated lake
-of Geirionydd, on the banks of which lived the illustrious bard Taliesin,
-called by his countrymen, by way of distinction, “Taliesin ben Beirdd,”
-the chief of the bards. About a mile from Llyn Geirionydd is the
-mountain village of Llanrhychwyn. Lord Willoughby d’Eresby has erected a
-monument which his lordship intended should identify the spot where the
-poet resided. Here, in a sort of hollow, formed on the summit of a
-mound, are still to be seen some remains of an ancient habitation. The
-river Conway is navigable from its mouth to Trefriw, for vessels of 60
-tons burden, which bring coal, lime, timber, and grocery, for the supply
-of the inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood, and carry back the
-produce of the slate quarries and mines of the adjoining parishes. Five
-miles S. E. of Llanrwst, is
-
-
-Gwytherin,
-
-
-a small village, very poor and primitive indeed, once celebrated as the
-burial place of St. Winefred, but the pilgrimages to it are now few and
-far between.—Three miles to the north stood the Abbey of Maenan; but a
-large old house built out of its ruins now occupies its place.
-
-
-Angling Stations.
-
- _Distance from Llanrwst_. _Miles_.
-Bettws-y-Coed 5
-Trefriw 2½
-Dolgarrog 4
-Llanbedr 5
-Dolwyddelan 8
- _Various Lakes near Llanrhychwyn and
- Dôlgarrog_, _viz._
-Llyn Geirionydd 4
-Llyn Bogynmyd 3
-Llyn Cowlyd 6
-Llyn Afangc.
-Llyn Tal-y-llyn, and Llyn Crafnant,
-near Llanrwst.
-
-MACHYNLLETH,
-(_Montgomeryshire_.)
-
-Aberdovey 10
-Aberystwyth 18
-Chester 70
-Dolgelley 16
-Llanidloes 20
-London 208
-Newtown 28
-Towyn 14
-
-Machynlleth is an ancient well-built town, superior to most in North
-Wales for cleanliness and respectability, the streets being remarkably
-spacious and regular in appearance. It is situated on the road leading
-to Aberystwyth from Shrewsbury and North Wales, about a quarter of a mile
-from the southern bank of the river Dyfi. The township contains a
-population of 2482. It is the centre of the woollen manufactory in this
-part of the country, where also some tanning business is carried on. The
-Eagles is accounted the principal inn, and the Unicorn Arms, in the
-middle of the town, has obtained a good repute for excellent
-accommodation. The name of this town signifies the place of the river
-Cynllaeth, which was the ancient name of the Dyfi or Dovey, in the valley
-of which it stands. It is the supposed Maglana of the Romans, where, in
-the reign of Honorius, a lieutenant was stationed to awe the
-mountaineers.
-
-Here Owen Glyndwr summoned the nobility and gentry, of Wales in 1402.
-Amongst the number, Sir David Gam attended with the design of murdering
-Glyndwr, but the plot was discovered, and Sir David was seized. He would
-have suffered instantaneous death, had not some powerful friends
-interfered, through whose intercession his sentence was mitigated to
-confinement at Machynlleth, where he continued some time. But Sir David
-was scarcely set at liberty, ere he began to manifest a turbulent
-disposition; which so exasperated Glyndwr, that he burnt his house in
-resentment, uttering to Gam’s servant the following extemporaneous
-stanza:—
-
- Os gweli di wr coch cam,
- Yn ’mofyn am Gyrnigwen;
- Dywed ei bod hi tan y lan,
- A nod y glo ar ei phen.
-
-David, however, escaped this meditated vengeance by flying into England,
-where he continued in favour at the court of Henry the Fifth.
-
-In the august assembly called Owen’s parliament, Glyndwr exerted his
-first acts of royalty, being then acknowledged as the Prince of Wales,
-and proclaimed and crowned.
-
-Machynlleth has a neat and commodious church, which has recently been
-rebuilt. The town-hall or market-house was erected in 1783, by Sir W. W.
-Wynn, grandfather of the present owner of Wynnstay, who is lord of the
-manor, and holds courts leet twice in the year. The county court is held
-alternately here and at Montgomery, and the petty sessions for the
-hundred are held here occasionally. There are places of worship for
-Independents, Calvinists, and Wesleyan Methodists; and a national school
-liberally endowed.
-
-The new line of road from Machynlleth to Towyn is exceedingly picturesque
-and beautiful, particularly that part of it lying between Penal and
-Aberdovey, which is cut out of the solid rock, and was opened in 1827; it
-passes along the northern bank of the Dovey, and affords most delightful
-views of the opposite coast of Cardiganshire, with the sea in the
-distance.
-
-
-
-MAEN-TWROG
-(_Merionethshire_.)
-
-Bala 22
-Bedd-gelert 10
-Capel Curig 22
-Caernarvon 23
-Dolgelley 18
-Ffestiniog 3
-Harlech 10
-Slate Quarries 5
-Tan-y-Bwlch 0¼
-Tremadoc 10
-The Cataracts 2
-
-This is a small village, situated in the most romantic part of the highly
-picturesque vale of Ffestiniog, on the southern bank of the river Dwyryd.
-It derives its name from a large stone, still remaining in the
-church-yard, called Maen-Twrog, erected to the memory of a British saint,
-who died about the year 610. The church was rebuilt on the site of the
-ancient structure in 1814, and is a neat stone edifice with a square
-embattled tower. The Rev. Edmund Prys, Archdeacon of Merioneth, one of
-the most eminent poets of his time, was rector of this parish: he
-translated the metrical psalms used in the Welsh churches, and assisted
-Bishop Morgan in translating the Bible. He died in the year 1623, and
-was buried in Maen-Twrog church. Nothing can exceed the beauties of the
-little vale in which the village is built; the well-wooded hills are
-moderately high, and scattered with pleasing effect.
-
-There is a comfortable inn here, where neat cars may be had. A Sunday
-school was lately erected, at the expense of Mrs. Oakley. Within sight
-of the village, and about a quarter of a mile distant, on the opposite
-side of the river, is
-
-
-Tan-y-Bwlch,
-
-
-that is, Below the Pass, which is one of the most beautiful and
-celebrated places connected with the range of Snowdonian mountains. It
-takes its name from being situated at the brow of a hill, where it
-overlooks the vale of Ffestiniog; and from Plâs Tan-y-Bwlch, the
-residence of the late W. G. Oakley, Esq., which is delightfully and
-romantically situated. The prospect from the terrace of this mansion is
-most splendid and interesting, embracing the glorious scenery of the vale
-of Ffestiniog, the river Dwyryd in all its meandering windings, the range
-of Merionethshire mountains in the distance, the majestic castle of
-Harlech, and the lake-like intervening views opening into Cardigan bay.
-
-The Oakley Arms, an elegant hotel, is conveniently situated in the centre
-of the many attractive objects of this romantic district.
-
-Several Roman antiquities have lately been found near this place,
-consisting of coins, urns, and inscribed stones, some of which are in the
-possession of Mrs. Oakley, and of J. Lloyd, Esq. of Pen-y-Glanau, who has
-also an extensive collection of antiquities, found in different parts of
-the Principality.
-
-About two miles on the Harlech road, up a woody valley, are two most
-interesting waterfalls, on the Velin-Rhyd river, one called the Rhaiadr
-Dû, or the Black Cataract, and the other the Raven Fall. From the former
-the water rushes down a steep channel for about one hundred yards, and is
-thence thrown with great force over three rocks, each of which takes a
-different direction from the others: the depth of the fall is about forty
-feet. The latter is not more than a quarter of a mile distant, and in
-equal in beauty and grandeur. It consists of six different falls, each
-of which, about thirty feet in extent, is beautifully picturesque, and,
-as seen from the base of the rock over which the river descends, has a
-sublime and romantic appearance. There are also several other falls of
-minor interest on the streams that water the vale. At a cottage near the
-bridge, which the tourist will cross before he leaves the main road from
-Maen-Twrog, a guide to the falls may be obtained.
-
-After the natural beauties of this lovely district, the object of the
-greatest attraction is the Ffestiniog railroad, for the conveyance of
-slates from the Ffestiniog quarries to Port Madoc, which is cut through
-rocks nearly the whole length of fourteen miles, and forms an inclined
-plane the whole distance, the fall of which is equal to one in one
-hundred and twenty, and the descent from its commencement to its
-termination is a most delightful ride, through an infinite variety of
-sublime and interesting scenery. For the accommodation of tourists and
-visitors, a carriage, connected with the Oakley Arms Hotel, has been
-placed on the line.
-
-The quarries with which the railway is in connexion produce the best and
-most valuable kind of slate. They belong to Lords Newborough,
-Palmerston, and Powlett; Mrs. Oakley; S. Holland, J. Greaves, W. Turner,
-and Thomas Casson, Esquires.
-
-
-
-MALLWYD.
-(_Montgomeryshire_.)
-
-Bala 19
-Can-Office 12
-Dinas Mowddwy 1½
-Machynlleth 12
-
-This is a little village, placed between the salient angles of three
-abrupt mountains, Arran, Camlan, and Moel Dyfi, in a small valley
-surrounded by many delightful scenes, through which runs the river Dyfi,
-or Dovey.
-
-The falls of the Dovey at Pont Fallwyd, about half a mile distant, are
-particularly romantic and beautiful.
-
-The church is a very humble Gothic structure. The churchyard is
-remarkable for several large yew trees, one of which measures twenty-two
-feet in girth, and forty feet in height.—Mallwyd has a good inn, where
-post chaises may be procured.
-
-
-
-MOLD,
-(_Flintshire_.)
-
-Chester 12
-Denbigh 16
-Flint 6
-Hawarden 6
-Holywell 10
-London 200
-Northop 3
-Ruthin 10
-Wrexham 11
-
-The ancient British name of this place, (Yr Wyddgrûg), signifying a Lofty
-and Conspicuous Hill, and also the Roman name of Mont Altus, of like
-import, were derived from a high mound on the north-western side of the
-present town, now called the Bailey Hill, a commanding eminence, partly
-natural, and partly artificial, upon which a fortification appears to
-have been erected at a very early period, but whether by the ancient
-Britons, or by the Romans, is not accurately known. It is seated in a
-pleasant valley, watered by the river Alyn; consists principally of one
-long spacious street; and in 1841, with that part of the township
-immediately adjoining, contained 10,653 inhabitants. By the late Act for
-amending the representation, Mold has been constituted a borough,
-contributory with Flint and the other boroughs in the county, in the
-return of a member to Parliament.
-
-In the environs are numerous handsome seats and elegant mansions. The
-principal inns are the Black Lion and Leeswood Arms hotels. To the
-former a spacious assembly room has lately been added, and many agreeable
-balls are there given. The parish abounds with mineral wealth; the
-western district is rich in lead ore, which is generally found imbedded
-in limestone, or chirtz; but the operations are much impeded by the
-subterraneous stream of the Alyn, which here flows under ground for the
-space of upwards of half a mile. Numerous tumuli are found in various
-parts of the parish. In October 1833, some workmen, digging in a field
-near the town, discovered a human skeleton, having at its feet an
-earthern pot, which apparently contained ashes; and on the breast, with
-other metal, a large plate of gold, much ornamented, valued at the sum of
-£70: the trustees of the British Museum became the purchasers of these
-antique relics.
-
-In the neighbourhood are various works for smelting lead, and an
-extensive cotton mill.
-
-The county assizes are held in Mold. A new county hall has been erected
-in the old English style of architecture, from a design by Thomas Jones,
-Esq., architect, of Chester.
-
-The church, dedicated to St. Mary, and said to have been erected in the
-early part of the sixteenth century, is a spacious and handsome
-structure, consisting of a nave, north and south aisles, and a chancel,
-with a lofty square embattled tower, enriched with sculpture and crowned
-with pinnacles, which though of more recent erection, precisely
-correspond with the general design. The interior of the church is
-embellished with architectural details and sculptured monuments. Among
-numerous monuments worthy of examination, is an elegant one to the memory
-of Richard Davies, Esq., of Llanerch; and against a pillar of the nave is
-this singular epitaph, composed by Dr. Wynne for himself, and placed
-there during his life:—“In conformity to ancient usage, from a proper
-regard to decency, and a concern for the health of his fellow-creatures,
-he was moved to give particular directions for being buried in the
-adjoining churchyard, and not in the church; and as he scorned flattering
-of others while living, he has taken care to prevent being flattered by
-others when dead, by causing this small memorial to be set up in his
-lifetime: God be merciful to me a sinner!” In the burial ground are
-deposited the remains of Wilson, the celebrated painter, styled “the
-English Claude.” There are places of worship for various denominations
-of dissenters. A branch railway from Mold, to form a junction with the
-Shrewsbury and Holyhead lines, at Saltney, near Chester, will soon be
-constructed.
-
-Of the ancient castle not a vestige at present can be discerned, and its
-very site is completely covered with thriving plantations. The Bailey
-Hill, on which it stood, though at present difficult of ascent, was
-rendered still more arduous by the erection of strong ramparts and the
-formation of a deep moat: from the summit of this hill a fine view of the
-surrounding country is obtained. About a mile west of Mold is a noted
-spot of ground, called
-
-
-Maes Garmon,
-
-
-Or the Field of Germanus. Soon after the final establishment of
-Christianity in this part of the Principality, about 448, a severe
-conflict took place here, between the combined forces of the pagan Saxons
-and Picts, and the native converts, of whom thousands had been just
-previously baptized. The latter calmly awaited the approach of the enemy
-at this place, under the command of Bishops Germanus and Lupus, the
-former of whom, having given his troops orders to repeat after him the
-word “alleluiah,” led them on to battle.
-
-This triumphant shout, uttered by the whole army, struck such terror into
-the hearts of the pagans, that they fled on all sides; numbers perished
-by the swords of their pursuers; and many, attempting to escape, were
-drowned in the adjacent river. This celebrated victory, which took place
-in Easter week, has been distinguished by historians with the appellation
-of “Victoria Alleluiatica;” and the memorial of it has been perpetuated
-by the erection of a pillar, in 1730, on the spot where St. Germanus is
-said to have stood. Modern researches of antiquarians have raised a
-doubt as to the locality of this remarkable event. One mile and a half
-on the Chester road runs
-
-
-Offa’s Dyke,
-
-
-The ancient and famous boundary between Wales and England, extending from
-Basingwerk, in Flintshire, to Monmouth. When the Romans made their
-inroads into this island, many of the Britons retreated into Wales, at
-which time the rivers Dee and Severn divided the two countries: all to
-the east was England, and to the west Wales. This division continued
-about 600 years, when the ambitious Offa, coveting the fertile lands of
-his neighbours, raised a quarrel and an army. He drove the conquered
-westward among the mountains, seized their property, formed this vast
-dyke, and ordained that neither Englishman nor Welshman should pass the
-new boundary.
-
-
-The Tower.
-
-
-On the right of the road leading towards Caergwrle, and about a mile from
-Mold, is an old structure, which presents a singular specimen of the
-style of domestic architecture during the ages of lawless violence in
-which it was erected: it consists of an ancient square tower of three
-stories, and appears to have been designed as a place of fortified
-habitation. During the wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, it
-was inhabited by Reinallt ab Gruffydd ab Bleddyn, who was constantly
-engaged in feuds with the citizens of Chester. In 1495, a considerable
-number of the latter came to Mold fair, and a fray arising between the
-hostile parties, great slaughter ensued on both sides; but Reinallt, who
-obtained the victory, took the mayor of Chester prisoner, and conveyed
-him to his mansion, where he hung him on the staple in his great hall.
-To avenge this affront, a party of two hundred men was dispatched from
-Chester to seize Reinallt, who, retiring from his house into the
-adjoining woods, permitted a few of them to enter the building, when,
-rushing from his concealment, he blocked up the door, and, setting fire
-to the house, destroyed them in the flames: he then attacked the
-remainder, whom he pursued with great slaughter: and such as escaped the
-sword, were drowned in attempting to regain their homes. The staple on
-which the mayor was hung still remains fixed on the ceiling of the lower
-apartment.
-
-
-Moel Fammau.
-
-
-On the right of the road to Ruthin, about five miles west of Mold, is
-this conspicuous eminence, rising 1845 feet above the level of the sea.
-Upon the summit of this mountain, the gentlemen of the country entered
-into a subscription, and erected in 1810, a jubilee column, to
-commemorate the fiftieth year of the reign of George III. The first
-stone was laid by Lord Kenyon, on the 25th October, in the presence of
-more than 3000 people. The monument was executed from designs by T.
-Harrison, Esq., of Chester, and consists of a rough stone building of
-pyramidal form, about 150 feet in height, and 60 feet diameter at the
-base. A square block of stone in the centse marks the division of the
-two counties, Denbighshire and Flintshire, and four parishes. From this
-elevated spot may be seen parts of Staffordshire and Derbyshire; the
-Wrekin, in Shropshire; Snowdon and Cader Idris, in Wales; and Black Comb,
-in Cumberland. The view is exceedingly grand and extensive, combining
-every variety of natural scenery; and as the mountain road has lately
-been repaired, and a room for visitors with a shed for horses erected on
-the summit, it forms a convenient and interesting spot from which to
-contemplate the beauties of Wales. The jubilee column has also been
-repaired by public subscription, to which Lord Kenyon was a liberal
-contributor.
-
-
-Kilkain.
-
-
-This village, which lies about four miles from Mold, on the bridle road
-to Denbigh, is remarkable for the finely-carved roof of its church, which
-at the dissolution of monasteries was brought from the abbey of
-Basingwerk.
-
-
-
-MONA INN,
-(_Anglesea_.)
-
-Beaumaris 14
-Holyhead 12
-Menai Bridge 10
-
-Mona Inn, formerly called Caeau Môn, is an excellent hotel, situate
-midway between Bangor and Holyhead, on the new line of road between those
-places. Post chaises are kept here. About nine miles beyond the Mona
-Inn the mail road crosses the Stanley Sands, by means of an embankment
-1300 yards in length, and upon an average of 16 feet in height. In the
-fields of the inn the geologist will find a curious red rock, containing
-jasper, which will cut glass like a diamond, and which also polishes
-beautifully.
-
-
-
-MONTGOMERY,
-(_Montgomeryshire_.)
-
-Bishop’s Castle 9
-London 169
-Newtown 9
-Welshpool 8
-
-This town, the capital of the county, is romantically situated, partly on
-the summit, and partly on the declivity of a hill, rising from the
-southern bank of the Severn, and under the shelter of a mountain of a
-mountain of loftier elevation.—The town-hall stands in the middle of the
-town, the area underneath being used for the market: the upper part is
-divided into two handsome rooms, erected at the expense of Lord Clive,
-the larger of which is used for assemblies; the smaller, for the business
-of the quarter sessions. On the left of the road leading to Shrewsbury
-is the new gaol, built by the county at an expense of £10,000. In 1841,
-the population returns gave to this town 1208 inhabitants. The Dragon
-has the reputation of being the principal inn.
-
-The town was anciently built and fortified with a castle, by Baldwyn,
-lieutenant of the Welsh marshes to William the Conqueror, and then called
-Tre-Faldwyn, i.e. Baldwyn’s Town; but Roger de Montgomery, Earl of
-Shrewsbury, in 1092, entered Powys-land, and took his place, which he
-fortified anew, built the castle (according to Doomsday-book), and called
-it after his own name. The church is a handsome cruciform structure, and
-contains an ancient monument to the memory of Richard Herbert, Esq.,
-father of the celebrated Lord Herbert of Chirbury.
-
-The ruins of the castle crown an eminence to the north of the town, the
-approach to which is easy; but on the opposite side, the rock upon which
-it is built rises almost perpendicularly. A seat belonging to the Earl
-of Powys, called Leymore Lodge, stands about half a mile from the town,
-on the road to Bishop’s Castle.
-
-
-Mynydd, or Cefn Dygoll,
-
-
-Is celebrated for having been the spot where the national independence of
-the Welsh was finally prostrated. After the death of Llywelyn, the
-northern Welshmen set up Madoc, his cousin, who assembled a great army,
-and after several victories at Caernarvon, Denbigh, Knockin, and on the
-marshes, the hero of the Principality was here overthrown, in 1294, by
-the collected power of the Lords Marshers, after a fiercely contested
-battle.
-
-
-
-NEVYN,
-(_Caernarvonshire_.)
-
-Caernarvon 21
-Cricaeth 15
-London 270
-Pwllheli 7
-
-Nevyn is a small market town, situated on the western coast of the
-county, with a population of 1726 inhabitants. It is only remarkable as
-the place where Edward the First, in 1284, celebrated his conquest of
-Wales by tournaments and feasts. The coast in the neighbourhood is bold
-and rocky, and the surrounding scenery altogether of a mountainous
-character. The church is a neat building, erected in 1824.
-
-On a narrow head-land, jutting into the sea, about a mile from the town,
-is Porth-yn-Llëyn, supposed, from remains of strong entrenchments, to
-have been a port frequented by the Romans. It forms a natural bay, in
-which there is safe anchorage in all winds, for vessels of the largest
-tonnage.
-
-
-
-NEWBOROUGH,
-(_Anglesea_.)
-
-Aberfraw 7
-Menai Bridge 12
-
-Newborough is on inconsiderable village, containing 895 inhabitants,
-deriving its name from having been constituted a free borough by Edward
-the First. It was originally a place of great importance, being the
-capital of the island, and was for many years the residence of the
-princes of North Wales, who had a palace here, where, or at Aberfraw, on
-the opposite side of the Malldraeth sands, they occasionally fixed their
-seat of government, as the exigences of that turbulent period might
-require. At the time of the first conquest of Wales by Edward the First,
-this place appears to have been the chief town in the island, as well as
-the seat of justice for the whole comot of Menai. In the reign of Henry
-the Seventh, upon a representation to that sovereign, the assizes and
-other county business were removed from Beaumaris to Newborough. Having,
-however, declined from its former importance, in the third year of Edward
-the Sixth, the assizes, sessions, and general county business were
-removed back to Beaumaris, where they have been continued ever since.
-
-
-
-NEWMARKET,
-(_Flintshire_.)
-
-Caerwys 5
-Holywell 7
-St. Asaph 6
-Rhuddlan 4
-
-This village is situated about three miles to the right hand of the great
-Chester and Holyhead road, and within three miles of the estuary of the
-Dee.
-
-The church is a small structure of modern date, standing within a
-spacious cemetery, in which are some fine lofty trees. On the south of
-the church, and not far distant from the principal entrance, stands a
-tall and very beautiful stone cross, the upper part finely sculptured in
-high relief. Here is built one of the charity schools, founded and
-opened in 1726, by Dr. Daniel Williams, a dissenting minister, with an
-annual endowment of £8, a charity which he extended to every county in
-North Wales, distinguishing that of Wrexham, the place of his birth, by
-an annual salary of £15.
-
-The conjecture of the learned antiquarian, Mr. Pennant, that from the
-numerous tumuli and other sepulchral memorials visible in the
-neighbourhood, it was the scene of the slaughter of the Ordovices, by the
-Romans under Agricola, seems to be well founded.
-
-Near the village is a hill called Cop ’r ’leni, on the summit of which is
-a most enormous carnedd or tumulus, formed of lime-stones. It covers
-nearly an acre of ground, and is in height from 20 to 30 yards. The most
-probable conjecture is, that it was erected over the remains of some
-distinguished warrior or chieftain, slain in battle, and in later times
-served as an observatory to discern the approach of an enemy, for which
-purpose it is well calculated, as it commands an extensive view both of
-the neighbouring encampments, and the estuaries of the Dee and Mersey.
-
-A short distance from this place, on the brow of another hill, is
-Bryn-y-Saethau, or the Hill of Arrows, probably from being the station of
-the archers in the engagement: close to this is Bryn-y-Lladdfa, or the
-Hill of Slaughter, a name peculiarly appropriate to the site of a battle;
-a little below again is Pant-y-Gwae, or the Hollow of Woe.
-
-Between Newmarket and Mostyn, about one mile and a half distance from the
-former place, there is on an elevation a singular monument, denominated
-Maen Achwynfan, or the Stone of Lamentation and Weeping, on which are cut
-some very curious figures; the height of the stone is twelve feet, and
-two feet four inches wide at the base; the form is that of an ancient
-obelisk.
-
-A short time since one of the tumuli or barrows was opened in the
-presence of Mr. Morgan, of Golden Grove, and the Rev. Henry Parry, vicar
-of Llanasa, and was found to contain a quantity of bones and boars’
-tusks, the latter in good preservation. An urn, nearly two feet in
-height, was struck upon, but through the precipitancy of the workmen
-employed on the occasion, was unfortunately broken to pieces.
-
-
-
-NEWTOWN,
-(_Montgomeryshire_.)
-
-Bishop’s Castle 16
-Llanidloes 14
-Llanfyllyn 19
-London 179
-Machynlleth 30
-Welshpool 14
-
-Newtown, or as it is called by the Welsh Tre’-Newydd, is situated on the
-banks of the river Severn, on the road from Welshpool to Aberystwyth, and
-contains 3990 inhabitants.—The principal inns are the Boar and the Angel.
-Very little is known either of the origin or the early history of this
-place, which within the last fifty years, from the celebrity of its
-flannel manufacture, has risen into importance. A spacious hall has
-recently, been erected, from a design by Mr. Penson, in which the market
-for the staple commodity of the place is held, each alternate Thursday.
-Many factories have been established, which afford employment to more
-than two thousand persons.
-
-A substantial bridge of stone over the Severn, called the Long Bridge,
-was completed in 1827, at a cost exceeding £4000: it consists of three
-arches of more than sixty feet span; the arches and the parapets being of
-grey free-stone, and the spears and spandrils of blue stone, found in the
-neighbourhood. A stone bridge of one arch was built in 1803, over the
-town brook, on the road to Welshpool, which, by way of distinction, is
-called the Short Bridge.
-
-The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is an ancient structure. In the
-interior are some marble monuments, chiefly to the family of Price, of
-Newtown Hall. The environs abound with pleasing and romantic scenery,
-and a fine view of the town is obtained from the summits of the hills on
-the north and south sides. At the distance of about a mile and a half on
-the road to Built, there is a picturesque and beautiful spot, which is
-much resorted to by strangers; from the summit of a shelving mass of
-rock, eighty feet high, a stream of water rushes with impetuosity,
-forming in its descent a fine cascade, which winds at the base through a
-richly wooded glen.
-
-
-Angling Stations.
-
- _Distances from Newtown_. _Miles_.
-Bettws 4
-Llanmerewig 4
-Llanwynog 6
-
-NORTHOP,
-(_Flintshire_.)
-
-Chester 11½
-Flint 3
-Hawarden 4½
-Holywell 6
-London 194
-Mold 3
-
-This is a large and pleasantly situated village, in a fertile part of the
-country, surrounded by numerous seats and elegant villas. The Welsh name
-is Llan-Eurgain, from the dedication of its first church to St. Eurgain,
-daughter of the Prince Maelgwyn Gwynedd, and niece of St. Asaph, the
-second bishop of the see, which from him derived its name.
-
-The church, which has a noble tower, erected in 1571, stands on a small
-eminence, and is an irregular building, embattled in the front, and
-supported by clumsy buttresses. The interior length is 113 feet, and the
-breadth 38½ feet. There have been three dedications of Northop church;
-the first to St. Eurgain; the second to St. Mary; and the third to St.
-Peter. There are several remarkable monuments in this church.
-
-The parish of Northop contains about 6000 acres of land, nearly the whole
-extent of which is in cultivation. The population of the parish in 1841
-was 3566.
-
-Coals are found in the lower parts of the parish, and some of the works
-have been extensively carried on for many years; large quantities are
-conveyed by iron rail-roads to Connah’s Quay, and there shipped for
-Chester, Liverpool, and Dublin. Lead ore is found, though not in great
-abundance, in the township of Caer Allwch.
-
-
-
-OSWESTRY,
-(_Shropshire_.)
-
-Chirk 5
-Ellesmere 8
-Llanfyllyn 14
-Shrewsbury 18
-Welshpool 16
-Wrexham 14
-
-This town, though not situated in Wales, is so contiguous, that it is
-frequently visited by travellers, either on commencing or terminating
-their tour, Oswestry lying on the great line of road from Llangollen to
-Shrewsbury. The town occupies the declivity of a range of hills, which
-skirt it on the western side, and command an extensive view over the
-fertile plains of Salop. The streets are well paved and lighted: the old
-buildings of timber and brick have been succeeded by respectable modern
-edifices; and the town, which has long been stretched beyond its ancient
-boundaries, is still progressively increasing in extent and importance.
-The population of the parish by the last census was 8843.
-
-
-
-OVERTON,
-(_Flintshire_.)
-
-Ellesmere 5
-Wrexham 7
-
-This is a neat little village, delightfully situated on the banks of the
-Dee, over which river is a handsome stone bridge of two lofty arches,
-connecting the counties of Denbigh and Flint, on the road from Chester to
-Shrewsbury. The surrounding scenery is beautifully picturesque. The
-village, with its venerable church, forms a pleasing and highly
-interesting feature in a charming landscape. In the churchyard are
-several fine yew trees. The site of the ancient castle occupies the brow
-of a lofty promontory overlooking the river Dee; and in the park of
-Gwernhaeled are the remains of a large circular camp, with an ancient
-tumulus. In this vicinity is the elegant seat of F. R. Price, Esq.
-Bryn-y-Pys.
-
- ANGLING STATION.—The Dee up to Llangollen.
-
-
-
-PENMAEN MAWR,
-(_Caernarvonshire_.)
-
-Aber 4
-Bangor 9
-Conway 6
-Port Penrhyn 8
-
-Penmaen Mawr is an immense hill, and so denominated from being the last
-of the long chain of mountains which cross the country. This gigantic
-rock, along which the road from Chester to Holyhead passes, exhibits a
-fine contrast with the adjacent fertility, by its sterile grandeur. This
-place was once the dread of the neighbourhood, the immense promontory
-affording only a narrow zig-zag path along the shelf of its frowning side
-for the terrified traveller to pass. Under his feet were loose masses of
-rugged stones, impeding his progress; beneath, a hundred fathoms down,
-the roaring ocean foaming against the perpendicular base of the mountain;
-and over his head, the impending precipice, threatening by its shivering
-aspect to overwhelm or hurry him headlong down the craggy steep. The
-danger, from the declivity of the mountain, with the crumbling nature of
-the strata, increased with his progress, and, in several difficult parts
-of the road, one false step must have inevitably proved fatal.
-
-From the numerous accidents that occurred, it was long an object of
-melancholy consideration to the inhabitants in the vicinity: the winter
-evenings were often spent in relating the alarming tales of the perils
-and disasters attendant on passing Penmaen Mawr. Modern science,
-however, has made travelling in this fearful district both safe and
-attractive. By order of the Parliamentary Commissioners, a new road was
-opened in 1827, by the celebrated Mr. Telford. And a capacious tunnel
-has been constructed for the Chester and Holyhead Railway, through the
-adjoining mountain of Penmaen Bach, which seemed to defy every attempt to
-pierce its gloomy recesses.
-
-On the summit of a lull called Braich-y-Ddinas, rising out of Penmaen,
-are the ruins of a castle, the fortifications of which were capable of
-containing 20,000 men; the remains of walls are still standing, and a
-well that supplied the garrison is constantly full of water, furnished
-principally by the _condensed_ vapour of the mountain. This was
-considered the strongest post possessed by the Britons in the district of
-Snowdon. It was deemed impregnable; and here the reduced bands of the
-brave Welsh army were posted, pending the negociation betwixt Edward I.
-and Llywelyn.
-
-
-
-PENMORFA,
-(_Caernarvonshire_.)
-
-Beddgelert 7
-Pwllheli 11
-Pont Aberglaslyn 5½
-Tremadoc 1
-
-Penmorfa, or the Head of the Marsh, is a small wood-clad village,
-romantically situated on the western bank of Traeth Mawr, but is so much
-out of the way of tourists as to be seldom visited. The church is small,
-and dedicated to St. Beuno, having within a small monument to the memory
-of Sir John Owen, a general and supporter of Charles I., who, being taken
-prisoner at a battle near Bangor, was condemned to die by the Parliament;
-but through the intercession of Ireton, he was liberated after a few
-months’ imprisonment.
-
-
-
-PENMYNYDD,
-(_Anglesea_.)
-
-Beaumaris 6
-Plas Newydd 5
-
-Penmynydd is situated on the eastern side of Anglesea, near the great
-post road from Bangor to Holyhead, six miles from the Menai Bridge. It
-is celebrated as being the native place of OWEN TUDOR.
-
-
-
-PENTRE VOELAS,
-(_Denbighshire_.)
-
-Capel Curig 11
-Corwen 15
-Denbigh 18
-Ffestiniog 14½
-Llanrwst 11
-Maen-Twrog 17
-
-This is a small hamlet on the great London and Holyhead road, with a very
-comfortable inn. About four miles distant are the Conway waterfalls. A
-new road has lately been formed hence to Denbigh, and another to
-Ffestiniog.
-
-
-
-PLAS NEWYDD,
-(_Anglesea_.)
-
-Caernarvon 6
-Llanidan 3
-
-Plas Newydd (the New Mansion), anciently Llwyn Moel (the Grove on the
-Hill), one of the principal groves in Anglesea, sacred to druidic
-worship, once the magnificent seat of the Marquis of Anglesea, but now
-occupied by T. Assheton Smith, Esq. of Vaenol. Caernarvonshire. It is
-beautifully situated on the curve of the Menai, protected on three sides
-by venerable oak trees, and about one hundred yards of the strait, with a
-fine lawn in front, sloping to the edge of the water, and defended from
-the encroachment of the sea by a strong parapet embattled wall.
-
-Here the noble proprietor had the distinguished honour of entertaining
-his late Majesty George the Fourth, on his visit to Ireland in 1821; and
-also, at the invitation of the Noble Marquis, who was then exercising his
-official duties as Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, her Royal Highness the
-Duchess of Kent and her illustrious daughter, the Princess (now Queen)
-Victoria, took up their residence for several weeks in the summer of
-1822, during the time of holding the Eisteddfod at Beaumaris, where they
-visited and occasionally resided.
-
-Opposite the stables, behind the house, stands the most complete cromlech
-in Anglesea, perhaps in Britain; and the domains abound with most
-interesting vestiges of antiquity.
-
-A short distance from Plas Newydd, is Mr. Saunderson’s beautiful cottage,
-in the formation and embellishment of which that gentleman has displayed
-peculiar taste; and about half a mile to the west, within the park, is
-Plasgwyn, the seat of the lute Rev. Henry Rowlands, and also Llanidan
-Hall, the seat of Lord Boston.
-
-On Craig-y-Dinas, a rock on the side of the London and Holyhead road,
-about midway between the Menai bridge and Plas Newydd, stands the
-Anglesea Column, erected to commemorate the exploits of the noble
-marquis. The first stone was laid June 18, 1816, being the anniversary
-of the battle of Waterloo; and the pillar was completed September 8 in
-the following year. Its height from the base is 100 feet, and the summit
-of the hill on which it is built rises 260 feet above the level of the
-sea. It forms an interesting and commanding object in the romantic
-scenery of the neighbourhood.
-
-
-
-PONT-Y-GLYN,
-(_Denbighshire_.)
-
-Bala 12
-Corwen 6
-
-Pont-y-Glyn (the Bridge of the Precipices) is situated on the great
-Holyhead and London road, between Corwen and Cerniogan Mawr. The woody
-glen, at the head of which stands Pont-y-Glyn, with its prominent rocks,
-nearly obscured by the surrounding foliage, forms a lovely picture. On a
-sudden turn of the road, stands the bridge thrown over a chasm. Beneath
-is the rugged and precipitous bed of the river, where, among immense
-masses and fragments of rocks, the stream foams with violent impetuosity.
-The cataract is not lofty, but from its being directly under the bridge,
-where it is seen dashing among the dark opposing rocks, with the addition
-of the pendant foliage from each side, the scene is finely picturesque
-and elegant. The bridge rests upon the two nearly perpendicular rocks,
-and appears to be 50 or 60 feet above the bed of the stream. The view
-thence down the hollow is truly sublime.
-
-
-
-PWLLHELI
-(_Caernarvonshire_.)
-
-Caernarvon 20
-Chester 93
-Cricaeth 8
-London 250
-Nevyn 7
-
-Pwllheli, or the Salt Water Pit, is a pleasant market-town and sea-port,
-the population of which is about 1500. The market is held on Wednesday
-and Saturday. The Crown and Anchor, where post-chaises may be had, is
-accounted the principal inn; the Ship and Ivy Bush are respectable. The
-town, which is well built, has become a place of some resort for bathing.
-The parish church, which is situated about half a mile to the north of
-the town, is small and dilapidated. A new church, dedicated to St.
-Peter, was consecrated by the Bishop of Bangor September 16th, 1834. It
-is a neat and chaste edifice, capable of accommodating a large
-congregation. Two banks have branches here, the North and South Wales
-and the National Provincial.
-
-The town-hall, erected in 1818, is a neat substantial edifice, the lower
-part of which is appropriated on market-days as shambles, and the upper
-part contains an excellent assembly room, and a room in which the petty
-sessions are held. The commerce consists entirely in the importation of
-coal and of shop goods from Liverpool, for the supply of which to the
-surrounding country Pwllheli forms a great depôt, and is esteemed the
-cheapest place for living in North Wales. This is one of the
-contributory boroughs which, with Caernarvon, returns a member to
-parliament.—The surrounding scenery comprehends many pictures of grandeur
-and of beauty; and a view from the town, embracing the whole extent of
-the Snowdon mountains, the Merionethshire hills, and Cardigan bay, is
-truly magnificent. Several improvements are in progress at Pwllheli.
-
-
-
-RHUDDLAN,
-(_Flintshire_.)
-
-Abergele 5
-Flint 16
-Holywell 11
-London 220
-
-Rhuddlan contains, with the chapelry of Rhyl, 2415 inhabitants. The town
-lies in a flat, on the eastern hank of the river Clwyd, about two miles
-from its influx into the sea. The river is here a little extended in
-width, so as, at high water, to admit vessels of 50 tons up to the
-bridge.
-
-Rhuddlan was formerly a place of considerable magnitude, but no traces of
-its former importance are left, except in the ruins of its ancient
-castle. Edward the First annexed to it the privileges of a free borough,
-to facilitate an intercourse between the Welsh and English, for the
-purpose of allaying the rooted enmity and the unhappy jealousies that had
-for centuries rent the two countries. In all his proceedings, this
-monarch exhibited strong features of policy. He had been early taught
-that when stratagem would supply the place of men and treasure, it was at
-least wise, if not always just, to adopt it. Hence originated the
-statute of Rhuddlan, and hence was his infant son proclaimed Prince of
-Wales. This statute, which was passed in parliament assembled here in
-the year 1283, contains a set of regulations for the government of Wales;
-it also recites many curious particulars relative to the Welsh customs
-previous to Edward’s conquest, against which it was in a great measure
-directed.
-
-Betwixt the town and the sea is a large marsh called Morva Rhuddlan (the
-Marsh of Rhuddlan), where, in the year 725, a dreadful battle was fought
-between the Saxons, under Offa, king of Mercia, and the Welsh, in which
-the latter, after an obstinate conflict, were defeated with great
-slaughter, Carodoc, king of North Wales, and many of his principal
-chieftains, being among the slain. Such of the Welsh as escaped the
-sword of the enemy, perished in the marsh, from the influx of the tides;
-and all who were taken prisoners were inhumanly massacred, without regard
-to age or sex. In commemoration of this disastrous event, was composed
-the well-known Welsh air of “Morva Rhuddlan,” which is much admired for
-the plaintive sweetness of its melody.
-
-The bridge at Rhuddlan consists of two arches, built or rebuilt in 1595,
-with an impression of the arms of Hughes, Bishop of St. Asaph, upon one
-of the battlements.
-
-At a private house is shewn part of the building where Edward the First
-held the parliament which passed the statute of Rhuddlan, in 1283; the
-observation of the tourist will be directed to it by the following
-inscription on the building:—“This fragment is the remains of the
-building where King Edward the First held his parliament, A.D. 1283, in
-which was passed the statute of Rhuddlan, securing the Principality its
-judicial rights and independence.”
-
-
-Rhuddlan Castle
-
-
-is built of red stone, nearly square, and has six towers. The principal
-entrance appears to have been at the north-west angle, betwixt two round
-towers; the two opposite to these are much shattered, but the others are
-in a better state of preservation. There is some difference of opinion
-as to the period at which this castle was erected. Two celebrated
-historians, Powel and Camden, attribute it to Llywelyn ap Sitsyllt, who
-reigned in Wales at the commencement of the eleventh century, and made it
-the place of his residence. In 1063, three years before William the
-Conqueror came to the throne, Rhuddlan castle was in the possession of
-Gruffydd ap Llywelyn, prince of North Wales. It was in that year
-attacked and burnt by Harold, the son of Godwin, Earl of Kent (afterwards
-King of England), in retaliation for some depredations committed by the
-Welsh on the English borders. It was subsequently the scene of many
-interesting historical events.
-
-In 1399, the castle was seized by the Earl of Northumberland, previous to
-the deposition of Richard the Second, who dined here, in company with the
-Earl, in his way to Flint, where he was treacherously delivered into the
-power of his rival, Bolingbroke.
-
-In the civil wars, Rhuddlan was garrisoned for the King, but was
-surrendered to General Mytton in July, 1646, and in the December
-following was ordered by the parliament to be dismantled.—It is at
-present the property of the Bodryddan family.
-
- ANGLING STATION.—Cwm, three miles from Rhuddlan.
-
-
-
-RHYL,
-(_Flintshire_.)
-
-Abergele 8
-Chester 30
-Holywell 13
-St. Asaph 5
-
-Rhyl is situated at the termination of the Vale of Clwyd, near the mouth
-of the river from which that beautiful valley takes its name, and is much
-frequented as a bathing place during the summer months, for which
-purpose, both from its immediate contiguity to the sea, and the extent
-and firmness of its sands, it is admirably adapted. There are excellent
-and commodious hotels, with smaller inns and lodging houses, intermingled
-with several neat cottages, occupied for the summer residences of some of
-the wealthy neighbours. There are machines for the accommodation of
-bathers, and hot and cold baths, supplied with sea water, to which are
-attached billiard and news rooms, and a spacious bowling green.
-
-A church has been erected, capable of containing 500 persons, in which
-there is Divine service in the English language every Sunday.
-Steam-packets ply regularly from Rhyl to Liverpool three times a week,
-and occasionally from Rhyl to Beaumaris, affording its visitors an
-opportunity of seeing some of the magnificent scenery of the Welsh coast.
-Cars may be obtained at any time from the principal inns, and there is an
-omnibus on the Voryd side, which runs regularly from Abergele, to meet
-the packets. Extensive and important local improvements have lately been
-effected, to add to the attractions of Rhyl as a marine residence.
-
-The shore presents no very striking scenery; still the antique castle of
-Rhuddlan, in its sober hues, and the dark range of Clwydian hills,
-stretching far into the distance, afford a scene of no ordinary beauty.
-To the south is seen the bold promontory of the Great Ormeshead, beyond
-which is Puffin Island; and when days are bright and skies are clear, the
-distant hills of Cumberland may be dimly seen, losing themselves beyond
-the waters of the Irish Sea.—Provisions of all kinds are cheap; and milk,
-vegetables, and poultry, are abundantly supplied by the neighbouring
-farmers. The lover of angling may find an opportunity of enjoying his
-favourite amusement, as the Clwyd and Elwy, both celebrated trout
-streams, are within one hour’s walk.
-
-
-
-RUABON,
-(_Denbighshire_.)
-
-Chirk 4½
-Denbigh 28
-Llangollen 7
-Wrexham 5½
-
-Ruabon, or Rhiw-abon, is a village containing about 1300 inhabitants,
-situated on the road from Oswestry to Wrexham and Chester. The church,
-dedicated to St. Mary, is an interesting and venerable structure, in
-which are several splendid marble monuments. There is one by Rhysbrac,
-to the memory of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, who was killed by a fall from
-his horse, on the 26th of September, 1749, aged 41 years; the figure is
-in a graceful attitude, as in the act of addressing an assembly. An
-elegant Latin inscription, the composition of the late Dr. King, of St.
-Mary’s Hall, Oxford, enumerates in eloquent detail his mental abilities,
-social qualities, and public and private virtues.
-
-There are likewise two monuments by Nollekens, one to the memory of the
-late Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart., and the other to his wife, Lady
-Rennetta Williams Wynn. The latter represents that amiable lady in the
-character of Hope, standing and reclining on an urn. The countenance,
-attitude, and drapery, are exquisitely fine. The figure stands on a
-pedestal, on which, in high relievo, is a coiled serpent, hieroglyphical
-of eternity; and within is an inscription indicating that her ladyship
-was third daughter of Charles Noel, Duke of Beaufort, and died July 25,
-1769, at the early age of 23. The church was thoroughly repaired in
-1772, at the expense of the first Sir Watkin, who presented an organ and
-a small but elegant font of white marble, on the occasion of the baptism
-of his eldest son, the late baronet. Dr. David Powel, the Welsh
-historian, who was instituted to this vicarage in the year 1571, was
-interred here.
-
-In the neighbourhood are numerous iron works and collieries. The British
-iron company has very extensive works at Acrevair, in which several
-hundred men are constantly employed. There are considerable coal works
-at Cefn-Mawr, a large and populous village on the northern bank of the
-Dee, near an elegant bridge thrown over the river, called New Bridge.
-The Eagles or Wynnstay Arms Inn is a respectable house. Ruabon is one of
-the principal stations of the Shrewsbury and Chester Railway.—A short
-distance from the inn is
-
-
-Wynnstay.
-
-
-This extensive park, which is twelve miles in circumference, is entered
-from the village by a plain but handsome gateway of modern erection,
-opening into a straight avenue, nearly a mile in length, composed of
-lofty trees of ancient growth, in which venerable oaks, stately elms,
-beeches, and chesnuts, are intermingled; and at the extremity of which is
-the mansion, the hospitable residence of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart.,
-beautifully situated on a fine and extensive lawn, gently sloping to a
-noble and picturesque lake. The older portion of the building contains
-the domestic offices and general departments for the accommodation of the
-household. The modern part, erected by the first Sir Watkin, and
-enlarged by the late baronet, is spacious and substantial structure: the
-interior comprises several noble apartments, embellished with some
-excellent family portraits, by Sir Joshua Reynolds and some of the best
-masters, two full length paintings of Charles II. and his Queen, and
-several other pictures of merit.
-
-The park is enriched with some of the noblest trees in the Principality,
-and comprehends much variety and beauty of scenery: there are handsome
-lodge entrances into it from various parts of the surrounding district.
-
-At a short distance from the hall, situated in charming pleasure grounds,
-is a cold bath, near which stands a handsome fluted column, erected after
-a design by the late Mr. James Wyatt: it is one hundred feet high,
-ornamented on the faces with festooned wreaths of oak leaves, and at the
-angles with eagles, finely moulded in bronze; the capital is surmounted
-by an entablature supporting a circular platform, surrounded with an iron
-balustrade, to which there is an ascent from the interior by a flight of
-spiral steps, and having in the centre a circular pedestal, twelve feet
-high, on which is placed a massive vase of bronze, enriched with goats’
-heads. Over the door leading to the ascent, is a tablet bearing the
-following inscription:—“To the memory of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart.
-who died on the 29th of July, MDCCLXXXIX. this column was erected by his
-affectionate mother, Frances Williams Wynn;” and on the north side, in
-letters of copper, is the inscription—“Filium optimus. Mater, eheu!
-superstes.” Near this column is a fine sheet of water, bounded by Watt’s
-Dyke, which here intersects the park, and from which the mansion
-originally derived the name of Wattstay, changed by Sir John Wynn, to its
-present appellation.
-
-Near the southern extremity of the woods is a cenotaph, erected by the
-late Sir Watkin, from a design by Sir Jeffrey Wyatville, to the memory of
-his brother officers and soldiers who were slain during the rebellion in
-Ireland in 1798: it stands on an eminence overlooking a deep ravine,
-called Nant y Bele (the Dingle of the Marten), through which the river
-Dee urges it rapid course along a narrow channel, richly fringed with
-impending woods. From this spot there is a most magnificent prospect,
-embracing a vast extent of the counties of Caernarvon, Denbigh, Flint,
-Chester, and Salop, Chirk Castle and its noble park, the whole of the
-beautiful vale of Llangollen, including the stupendous aqueduct of
-Pont-y-Cysylltau, and the majestic ruins of Castell Dinas Brân, with the
-stately range of mountains in the distance.
-
-A gay archery _fête_ of the British Bowmen, attended by 300 of the
-aristocracy of the kingdom, was held at Wynnstay in 1846.
-
- ANGLING STATION.—The Dee.
-
-
-
-RUTHIN,
-(_Denbighshire_.)
-
-Bala 22
-Chester 22
-Corwen 12
-Denbigh 8
-Llangollen 15
-London 210
-Mold 10
-St. Asaph 14
-Wrexham 18
-
-Ruthin (Rhudd-ddin or Rhuthyn) is beautifully situated on the aclivity of
-an eminence in the picturesque Vale of Clwyd, at the base of which and
-through the lower part of the town flows the river from which the vale
-takes its name, at this place an inconsiderable stream, serving only to
-work some mills in the neighbourhood. The parish contains 3333
-inhabitants. The appearance of the town is pleasing, and the
-neighbourhood is embellished with numerous gentlemen’s seats, and
-commands much varied scenery. The principal inns are the White Lion and
-Cross Foxes.
-
-The government of Ruthin is vested in a municipal corporation. It is one
-of the contributory boroughs, with Denbigh, Holt, and Wrexham, to return
-a member to parliament. Ruthin has been made a polling-place in the
-election of knights of the shire; and from its central situation, it has
-been selected, in preference to the town of Denbigh, for holding the
-assizes for the county: the quarter sessions are held alternately here
-and at Denbigh. The town-hall, situated in the market-place, was built
-in 1663, and is used for holding the courts leet and baron. Prior to the
-erection of the county-hall, the quarter sessions were held there. The
-county-hall is a modern structure, fronted with white stone, and, with
-the county gaol and house of correction, also situated here, is highly
-creditable to the skill of the architect, Mr. Turner.
-
-The church is an interesting and ancient structure, with a fine roof of
-carved oak, panelled, richly sculptured, and apparently of the time of
-Henry the Seventh. The church was changed into a collegiate chapter A.D.
-1310, by John de Grey, who formed an establishment of several regular
-canons, and endowed it with valuable lands and numerous privileges. The
-apartments of the canons were connected with the church by a cloister, of
-which a remaining portion has been converted into a residence for the
-warden.
-
-The town contains an endowed free grammar school, a national school
-supported by voluntary subscriptions, and places of worship for various
-dissenting congregations.—The present rector is the Venerable Archdeacon
-Newcome, author of Memoirs of Dr. Goodman, Dean of Westminster, and Dr.
-Godfrey Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester, and also of some local histories.
-
-The ancient castle occupied the declivity of a hill, fronting the Vale of
-Clwyd towards the west, and, from the extensive foundations and remaining
-portions of the walls, appears to have been a structure of great strength
-and magnificence: the remains consist chiefly of fragments of the towers,
-dungeons, and ruined walls. This fortress was built by Edward the First,
-who in 1281 gave it, with the hundred of Dyffryn Clwyd, to Reginald de
-Grey; from the family of Greys it devolved to Richard Earl of Kent, who
-sold it to Henry the Seventh. It was afterwards granted to Dudley Earl
-of Warwick, by Queen Elizabeth. After the restoration, the castle and
-its dependencies were purchased by Sir Richard Myddelton.
-
-The elegant castellated mansion erected by the Hon. F. West, within the
-ruins of the old castle, forms a beautiful feature in the prospect of the
-town. The architect having blended the ancient and modern parts with
-harmonious effect, the structure displays great taste on the part of the
-projector. From various parts of the site are several rich and extensive
-prospects. No tourist should omit a visit to Ruthin Castle, which
-abounds with objects of interest to the student of British history.
-
-Near the town-hall is a rude block of lime-stone, called Maen Huail, on
-which, it is said, the celebrated Prince Arthur beheaded his rival Huail,
-brother to Gildas the historian. Ruthin mill, a curious ancient edifice,
-having on the apex of the eastern gable a red stone cross, is supposed to
-have been originally the chapel of the cell of White Friars, mentioned by
-Leland as formerly existing here, but of which no records are preserved.
-
-Dr. Goodman, Dean of Westminster, one of the translators of Archbishop
-Parker’s Bible, and principal promoter of Bishop Morgan’s Welsh
-translation; Edward Thelwall, tutor to Lord Herbert of Chirbury; Dr.
-Parry, Bishop of St. Asaph; Dr. Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester; Sir Eubule
-Thelwall, Knt., principal and second founder of Jesus College, Oxford;
-and Sir Thomas Exmewe, Lord Mayor of London in 1517, were natives of this
-place.
-
-
-Vale of Clwyd.
-
-
-This beautiful valley, called by the Welsh Dyffryn Clwyd (the Vale of the
-Flat), commences three or four miles south of Ruthin; enclosed by
-mountains, whose brown and barren summits form a fine contrast to the
-verdant meads and luxuriant fields beneath, which as far as the eye can
-reach present a most pleasing picture. Towns, villages, and mansions,
-thickly studded over the country, tend still more to enliven the cheering
-scene, which is exceedingly beautiful and attractive.
-
-This vale is the most extensive of any in Wales, being about twenty-four
-miles in length, above Ruthin to Rhuddlan, and varying from five to seven
-miles in breadth; it contains the three considerable towns of Denbigh,
-Ruthin, and St. Asaph. There are several of the adjacent heights whence
-the vale may be seen to advantage; such are the Bwlch Pen-Barras, on the
-old road to Mold, about four miles from Ruthin, and that part of the new
-road by which the traveller descends into the vale, commencing about
-three miles from the latter town; but the best station for an extended
-view, is the eastern ridge of the mountain, between Dymeirchion and
-Bodfari, about three hundred yards from Bryn Bella. The view presents a
-most enchanting panorama of natural scenery.
-
- ANGLING STATION.—The Clwyd.
-
-
-
-ST. ASAPH,
-(_Flintshire_.)
-
-Abergele 7
-Conway 18
-Chester 28
-Denbigh 6
-Holywell 10
-London 217
-Rhuddlan 3
-
-St. Asaph, commonly called Llan Elwy, derived its origin and name from
-the erection of a church on the bank of the river Elwy, about the middle
-of the sixth century. The city is beautifully situated on the gentle
-aclivity of an eminence, washed on the eastern side by the river Clwyd,
-and on the west by the Elwy, which unite at the distance of about a mile
-to the north. The parish contains 3338 inhabitants. Over the Elwy, at
-the extremity of the principal street, is a handsome stone bridge of five
-arches; and over the Clwyd is a fine bridge of more modern erection,
-within a quarter of a mile to the east of the cathedral church. The
-White Lion and the Mostyn Arms are the principal inns. St. Asaph has
-been added to the other boroughs of this county, now eight in number,
-which unitedly return one member to parliament.
-
-The approach from Holywell to St. Asaph is commodious and picturesque.
-The view of the city is peculiarly striking; its elevated situation on an
-eminence near the termination of the rich and fertile Vale of Clwyd,
-crowned on the summit with the cathedral, and having the parish church at
-its base, makes it a conspicuous object from every point; and the
-luxuriant groves of trees in which it is deeply embosomed, give to it a
-romantic appearance. The surrounding scenery, which abounds with objects
-of interest and beauty, is seen to great advantage from the heights of
-the city and from the grounds in the immediate vicinity.
-
-The cathedral consists chiefly of the structure raised by Bishop Anian,
-the second of that name, about the year 1284, and after its demolition by
-Owen Glyndwr, it was restored by Bishop Redman, towards the close of the
-fifteenth century, with the exception of the choir, which was rebuilt
-about the year 1770, by the Dean and Chapter, with funds which had been
-vested in their hands as trustees for that purpose. It is a cruciform
-structure, principally in the decorated style of English architecture,
-with a low square embattled tower, rising from the intersection of the
-nave and transepts, and having at the north-east angle a staircase
-turret: the exterior is of simple but good design; the buttresses are few
-and of very bold character, and the arch of the west door is plainly
-moulded: the east end is ornamented with a window, which is said to be a
-fac-simile of the east window in Tintern abbey, in Monmouthshire, and in
-1810 was filled with beautifully stained glass, at the expense of the
-Dean and Chapter, aided by the contributions of the gentry in the
-neighbourhood. The “good Bishop Beveridge” was consecrated to this see
-in 1704.
-
-The interior of the cathedral contains some interesting monuments; an
-altar-tomb, with a recumbent figure in episcopal robes, is said to
-commemorate the munificent prelate, Davydd ab Owen, who was interred here
-in 1512; and near the west door is a painted tomb, with an inscription to
-the memory of Bishop Isaac Barrow, who died in 1680. There is a monument
-of white marble, to the memory of Dean Shipley, by Ternouth, erected by
-subscription about the year 1829, at an expense of £600, consisting of a
-full-length figure of the Dean in his canonicals, in a sitting posture;
-and also a neat altar-tomb monument to the memory of Bishop Luxmore, who
-died in January, 1830, from a design by T. Jones, Esq. of Chester. Among
-other objects of interest to admirers of taste and genius, we may mention
-a mural tablet to the memory of that charming poetess, the gifted Mrs.
-Hemans. The choir is neatly fitted up, and the general appearance of the
-interior remarkably gratifying, from its appropriate solemnity and the
-excellent order in which it is kept. A new organ was erected a few years
-since.
-
-The episcopal palace, situated at a short distance to the west of the
-cathedral, was rebuilt upon a more extensive scale and in an appropriate
-style, at the expense of the late Bishop. The deanery, about a quarter
-of a mile from the cathedral, and on the west bank of the river Elwy, was
-also rebuilt by the present Dean. Dr. T. V. Short is the present Bishop
-of St. Asaph. The parochial church, dedicated to St. Asaph and St.
-Kentegern, is situated at the base of the eminence, of which the
-cathedral occupies the summit; it is a small edifice without a tower, and
-is supposed to have been erected about the year 1524. There are places
-of worship for Independents, and Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists.
-
-The views in the neighbourhood are delightfully picturesque and varied.
-
- [Picture: Picture of fishermen on lake]
-
-There are numerous elegant mansions within the parish; among the most
-conspicuous are—Kinmel, the seat of Lord Dinorben; Bodelwyddan, the seat
-of Sir John Williams, Bart., one of the handsomest residences of North
-Wales; Pengwern, that of Lord Mostyn, built about the beginning of the
-last century; Cefn, that of Edward Lloyd, Esq.; and Bronwylfa, the
-residence of Colonel Sir Henry Browne, erected in the year 1660, and
-enlarged in 1816. In this last mansion are some valuable trophies taken
-during the late war, amongst which are, Napoleon Buonaparte’s travelling
-map and book of roads of the French empire, in splendid morocco cases,
-emblazoned with the imperial arms, taken from his library at
-Fontainbleau, by Sir Henry, in 1815 and a French field-marshal’s baton,
-two feet three inches in length, covered with purple velvet, ornamented
-with golden bees, and surmounted with an imperial crown, taken in
-Silesia, in 1812, by a division of Blucher’s corps.
-
-In the township of Cefn Meriadog are some magnificent natural caverns,
-extending for a considerable distance into the limestone rocks; in some
-parts of those the roof is more than forty feet in height, and near the
-river Elwy the base of the rock is perforated by a lofty natural arch, 21
-yards in length, and 36 feet high, through which is a road capable of
-admitting a wagon loaded with hay. Various fossil remains have been
-found in these caverns, which have been considered by Professor Buckland
-as worthy of a personal scrutiny on the spot.
-
- ANGLING STATION.—Bodfari, four miles from St. Asaph.
-
-
-
-SNOWDON,
-(_Caernarvonshire_.)
-
-
-A chain of the highest mountains in Wales extends across Caernarvonshire,
-from Bardsey Island to Penmaen Bach, near Conway bay, gradually rising
-from each extremity towards the centre, which is occupied by Snowdon.
-The name of this mountain was first given to it by the Saxons, and
-signifies a hill covered with snow; but the Welsh call all this adjacent
-range Creigian-yr-Eyri (the Eagle’s Cliffs;) for it is not true, as has
-been asserted, that snow may be found upon it through the whole year.
-The temperature at the summit is generally very low, even in summer. In
-July, just after sunrise, the thermometer has been observed at 34 deg.
-and in August at 48 deg. early in the afternoon.
-
-The perpendicular height of Snowdon is by late admeasurements 1190 yards
-above the level of the sea. This makes it, according to Pennant, 240
-yards higher than Cader Idris. Some state Whernside, in Yorkshire, to be
-the highest mountain in South Britain, and more than 4000 feet. Helvelyn
-is 3324 feet, Benlomond 3262. Mont Blanc rises 15,680 feet; the American
-Chimboraco is 20,909 feet, the highest ground ever trodden by man; and
-the mountain of Thibet above 25,000 feet, the highest at present known.
-
-The air on the top of Snowdon is sharp and bracing, and like that in all
-other mountain districts, is salubrious and congenial to health and
-longevity. It is seldom that persons who have taste and leisure visit
-this part of Caernarvonshire without ascending to the top of our British
-Alps; and those who make a tour from motives of curiosity would think the
-omission almost inexcusable. An important consideration for the tourist
-is the point whence he should commence the ascent for the towering summit
-of this majestic mountain. Dolbadarn, Llyn Cwellyn, Beddgelert, and
-Llanberis, all put in their claims for eligibility as a starting-place,
-and at each of these stations trusty guides may be engaged. We are
-inclined to the opinion that the Victoria Hotel at Llanberis is the spot
-from which the most easy and convenient ascent may be effected.
-
-It may readily be imagined that every resting point in climbing this
-commanding eminence must reveal, amidst the magnificent scenery of so
-romantic a district, views of surpassing grandeur and beauty: and such
-indeed is the case to an extent which the most vivid imagination can
-scarcely conceive. The enthusiastic author of “The Beauties, Harmonies,
-and Sublimity of Nature,” gives the following glowing description of the
-prospects from the summit:—
-
- “After climbing over masses of crags and rocks, we ascended the peak
- of Snowdon. Arrived at its summit, a scene presented itself
- magnificent beyond the powers of language! Indeed, language is
- indigent and impotent when it would presume to sketch scenes on which
- the Great Eternal has placed his matchless finger with delight.
- Faint are thy broad and deep delineations, immortal Salvator Rosa!
- Powerless and feeble are your inspirations, genius of Thomson,
- Virgil, and Lucretius! From this point are seen five-and-twenty
- lakes. Seated on one of its crags, it was long before the eye,
- unaccustomed to measure such elevations, could accommodate itself to
- scenes so admirable; the whole appearing as if there had been a war
- of the elements, and as if we were the only inhabitants of the globe
- permitted to contemplate the ruins of the world. Rocks and
- mountains, which, when observed from below, bear all the evidence of
- sublimity, when viewed from the summit of Snowdon, are blended with
- others as dark, as rugged, and as elevated as themselves; the whole
- resembling the swellings of an agitated ocean. The extent of this
- prospect appears almost unlimited. The four kingdoms are seen at
- once: Wales, England, Scotland, and Ireland! forming the finest
- panorama the empire can boast. The circle begins with the mountains
- of Cumberland and Westmoreland; those of Ingleborough and Penygent,
- in the county of York, and the hills of Lancashire forefollow; then
- are observed the counties of Chester, Flint, Denbigh, and a portion
- of Montgomeryshire. Nearly the whole of Merioneth succeeds; and
- drawing a line with the eye along the diameter of the circle, we take
- in the regions stretching from the triple crown of Cader Idris to the
- sterile crags of Carnedds David and Llywelyn. Snowdon, rising in the
- centre, appears as if he could touch the south with his right hand,
- and the north with his left. ‘Surely,’ thought Colonna, ‘Cesar sat
- upon these crags, when he formed the daring conception of governing
- the world!’ From Cader Idris, the eye, pursuing the orbit of the
- bold geographical line, glances over the bay of Cardigan, and reposes
- for a while on the summit of the Rivals. After observing the
- indented shores of Caernarvonshire, it travels along a line of ocean,
- till, in the extremity of the horizon, the blue mountains of Wicklow
- terminate the perspective. Those mountains gradually sink along the
- coast till they are lost to the eye; which, ranging along the
- expanse, at length, as weary of the journey, reposes on the Island of
- Man, and the distant mountains of Scotland. The intermediate space
- is occupied by the sides and summits of mountains, hollow crags,
- masses of rocks, the towers of Caernarvon, the fields of Anglesea,
- with woods, lakes, and glens, scattered in magnificent confusion. A
- scene like this commands our feelings to echo, as it were, in unison
- to its grandeur and sublimity: the thrill of astonishment, and the
- transport of imagination, seem to contend for the mastery, and nerves
- are touched that never thrilled before.”
-
-But it is not always thus. Earthly pleasures are often greater in the
-anticipation than the enjoyment; and ardent hopes are subject to
-occasional disappointments. Bright as the day may be, mountain mists
-will sometimes intervene, and passing clouds suddenly draw a curtain over
-these glorious revelations of Almighty Power. Take, for instance, the
-narrative of the King of Saxony’s ascent up Snowdon in July, 1844, his
-Majesty’s excursion being made from Beddgelert:—
-
- “Early this morning, according to our previous design, we made the
- ascent of Snowdon: the appearance of the weather was by no means
- encouraging, the sky was lowering, and the clouds hung deep around
- the mountain top. Still there was no rain, many signs of a
- favourable change, and we took our chance of the advantages in our
- favour and set out. We made early preparation for our journey, and,
- at seven o’clock, mounted a light carriage, accompanied by a skilful
- guide. We followed the road towards the foot of the mountain, as far
- up its flank as it was accessible to any description of carriage. We
- commenced the ascent. Our path lay for some distance over wet
- pasture and spongy meadows; after which, the path became steeper, and
- occasional masses of bold projecting rocks occurred. We were not the
- only travellers, whom the day tempted to try their good fortune on
- the summit of the highest mountain in England. Some ladies, mounted
- on ponies, rode sometimes before and sometimes behind us, and several
- parties followed them on foot. The summit of the mountain lay
- concealed in clouds; the rocks stood forth bold and black from the
- green of the Alpine meadows, on which the beautiful yellow
- _anthericum ossifragum_ grows in great profusion, and a cold wind
- blew from the ravines which skirted our path. A young Alpine lark,
- only imperfectly fledged, fluttered along the ground before our feet;
- our guide easily caught it with his hands, but the old ones flew
- around, uttering such painful screams, that I induced him again to
- put the poor panting little creature upon the grass, behind a large
- block of stone. When we ascended a little further, the view to the
- westward became partially free, and we saw the sea, the isle of
- Anglesea, and Caernarvon Castle. As we ascended, however, the clouds
- again closed around us, and finally we found ourselves completely
- enveloped in the penetrating fog of these moist goddesses. The
- ascent also in many places now became difficult; the wind blew cold
- along the side of some rocky walls, or from the depths of some
- neighbouring ravine; the thick fogs continued to roll more densely
- along the mountain sides; but fortunately, so far, they did not
- thoroughly penetrate our clothes with their moisture.
-
- “Still onward, from height to height! deep ravines lay at our side,
- the bottom of which, filled with thick fog, yawned horribly below.
- Vegetation now almost wholly disappeared, except merely a few rare
- Alpine plants, and on every side of us rose lofty crags of black
- _chlorite slate_. Having taken some repose after the efforts of the
- ascent, behind a projecting rock which sheltered us from the wind, we
- again set forth, and in about a quarter of an hour (two hours in all)
- we reached the pinnacle of the mountain—4348 feet above the level of
- the sea. View there was none! We found refuge in a small wooden
- shed, erected for the protection of travellers from the rain and
- wind, in which the host kept up a welcome fire. The man presently
- prepared a singular brown mixture, which he sold for coffee, and
- furnished some grayish oatmeal cake as an accompaniment. There were
- no spirituous liquors of any description to be had, because the
- occupier, with no small degree of self-satisfaction, gave us to
- understand that his wooden hut was to be regarded as a _Temperance
- Inn_. Not far from this mountain hotel, which I must state to be the
- first imperfect house of accommodation we had yet met in England, was
- a small stone hut, in which the rest of the travellers, together with
- their ponies, had found a harbour not much better than our own.
-
- “Having spent some time upon the summit, dried ourselves, and ranged
- about among the craggy rocks and through the fog, we found our visit
- was in vain—no hopes of the weather clearing were longer entertained,
- and we prepared to proceed on our descent. Before we had descended
- far from the summit, the clouds presented occasional breaks, and we
- were able to snatch partial views into the beautiful deep valleys
- which lie between the converging ridges of the mountain; and on one
- occasion the clouds rose like a curtain, and revealed to us a
- splendid prospect of the sea. In these occasional glimpses, we
- perceived for a moment that the declivities of the mountain were
- enjoying the full beams of the sun, and immediately we were again
- closely enveloped in our foggy mantle of clouds. There was a
- continual play of currents of air and waves of fog with the earth.
- Such phenomena furnish highly interesting subjects of contemplation
- to those who have greater leisure for their contemplation than we
- ourselves had. Of such extraordinary atmospheric phenomena, however,
- it may be said, they show the life of the clouds, but cloud the image
- of life! If, however, the observation of such phenomena be made the
- chief object of a whole excursion, they will be found to have
- something in them unsatisfying. The unconscious life of nature
- always falls in value in the eyes of him who has thought upon and
- experienced the mighty movements and impulses of the mind and
- feelings. As I have already said, what signify earth, and suns, and
- planets, if there were no eye to see, no intelligence to give them
- life?
-
- “Having proceeded somewhat further on the descent, our guide prepared
- to follow a different route in our return, through a deep precipitous
- valley, in which the king immediately acquiesced. The task, however,
- was by no means easy; it involved the necessity of going straight
- down a sharp declivity of the mountain, at least 1000 feet high, and
- very sparingly covered with moist earth and tufts of grass. We were
- obliged to aid ourselves as well as we could by the firmness of our
- tread, taking a zigzag course, and by the appliances of our hands and
- sticks, at length reached the bottom in safety. The path, however
- formidable to us, would, undoubtedly, not have presented many
- difficulties to a well-trained Alpine hunter; to those, however, who
- are not accustomed to such clambering, it must be regarded as making
- a severe demand upon the exercise of their muscular power, and as a
- species of training which, when successfully completed, must always
- result in good. Even on reaching the valley, there was no path, and
- we were obliged to make our way over stock and stone, through bog and
- brook, till we came to a lower and a smoother region. During our
- descent, we were obliged to endure the alternative of heat and cold,
- of sunshine and rain; at length we reached some mines, at which rude
- paths began to appear, and presently after found ourselves at our
- carriages, and drove by another road again back to Beddgelert. On
- this road, too, we enjoyed the sight of some splendid mountain
- scenery. The weather had now become clear and sunny, while the top
- of Snowdon still lay thickly enveloped in masses of dark clouds. A
- small lake lay stretched out before us in the vale, full of
- picturesque beauty, and noble mountains beside and beyond, rose and
- towered one above another. I heartily envied an artist who had
- established his _studio_ on the edge of a mountain brook, and
- appeared to be diligently engaged in his work. What a pleasure it
- must be, to be engaged in an attempt to give a faithful delineation
- of such noble forms! About half-past two we reached the hotel at
- Beddgelert, and our mountain excursion was at an end.”
-
-Let us be very earnest in impressing upon the minds of all tourists one
-important injunction,—_never ascend Snowdon without a guide_. It is
-unwise and perilous, even in the brightest weather, to make such an
-attempt. A melancholy instance of this venturous spirit occurred in the
-autumn of 1846, when the Rev. H. S. Starr, of Northampton, ascended the
-mountain without a guide; and doubtless perished in some of its bogs or
-precipitous defiles, as from that period till now, no trace of this
-unfortunate clergyman has been discovered.
-
- For Angling Stations, see Llanberis.
-
-
-
-TAL-Y-LLYN,
-(_Merionethshire_.)
-
-Dolgelley 8
-Dinas Mowddwy 11
-Machynlleth 8
-Towyn 10
-
-This is a very picturesque little village, about half way between
-Machynlleth and Dolgelley, deriving its name from the church, at the head
-of a beautiful lake, appropriately called Llyn Mwyngil, (The Lake of the
-Charming Retreat,) from the west end of which issues the river Dysyni,
-taking its course to the sea through Towyn Marsh. The scenery is
-remarkably romantic, and is rendered more so by the lakes which are
-within the limits of the parish. That of Tal-y-llyn is small but
-beautiful; its greatest breadth is not more than half a mile, and its
-length between one and two miles. Its northern boundaries consist of
-rich pasture land, while on the south a high green hill, covered only
-with short herbage, in fact a mere sheep walk, rears itself to the
-clouds, and extends the whole length. Its only piscatory productions are
-trout and eels; the latter attaining a good size, and finding a safe
-protection in the deep coat of moss which covers the bottom. Of the
-trout there are two species, the large lake trout and the common river
-trout, the latter finding their way into the lake by two or three streams
-which feed it from the mountain; these never attain any considerable
-size, but the others, being indigenous to the pool, grow to a large size.
-The finest, which are caught with a fly, vary from half a pound to
-between one and two pounds; one weighing more than 12lb. was found a few
-winters ago, frozen under the ice. The lake is the property of Colonel
-Vaughan, who purchased it for no other purpose than that of affording his
-friends the enjoyment of angling therein. The stranger, who is perfectly
-unknown to the generous-hearted Welshman, is equally welcome to
-participate in the sport, without the formality of begging a day’s
-fishing, or even intimating his intention to the proprietor. A new and
-commodious inn, near the village, was built last year by Colonel Vaughan:
-it affords good accommodations, and the charges are very moderate.
-
-Beside the lake already mentioned, there is another under the summit of
-Cader Idris, called Llyn Cau, (the Pool of the Chasm,) from its being
-situated under vast cliffs; it is about a quarter of a mile long, and
-nearly of equal breadth, and has the appearance of the crater of a
-volcano, at the head of the chasm, through which a stream runs from the
-lake, and forms a fine cataract, close to the ancient house of Dolydd
-Cau, and then unites with another river, which meanders along the level
-vale below, to the upper end of Llyn Mwyngil. The vale in which it is
-situated is so contracted, as to leave, for a considerable part of its
-length, only a very narrow road on each side of the lake, from the clear
-surface of which are reflected its precipitous declivities. Towards the
-extremity of the vale, the lake contracts gradually into the form of a
-river, rushing with much force through a stone arch into a very narrow
-pass, having on one side the church, and on the other a small cluster of
-houses, which form the village, embosomed in trees, and assuming a
-romantically beautiful appearance.
-
-At the distance of a mile or two from the church, the hills almost meet,
-and present a sterile and rugged aspect; they are broken into numberless
-crags, of which some are vertical and sharply pointed, but the greater
-number project horizontally, and impend with threatening gloom over the
-vale beneath. One of these precipices, from its resemblance in form to a
-harp, has been called Pen y Delyn; and another, from a tradition that it
-was formerly the practice to throw thieves from its summit, has been
-denominated Llan-y-Lladron (the Thieves’ Leap), a practice corresponding
-with that related of the Tarpeian rock at Rome.
-
- ANGLING STATION.—The Lake: good fishing. A boat.
-
-
-
-TOWYN,
-(_Merionethshire_.)
-
-Aberdovey 4
-Barmouth 12
-Dolgelley 16
-London 226
-Machynlleth 14
-
-Towyn is a market-town beautifully situated at the distance of about a
-mile from the sea-coast, near the mouth of the river Dysyni, in a small
-but pleasant vale. The return of the population for the town and parish
-is 2694 inhabitants.
-
-During summer, the place is much frequented for sea-bathing, by persons
-who prefer retirement to the bustle of a more fashionable watering place.
-Valetudinarians are also attracted hither by St. Cadvan’s Well, much
-celebrated for the cure of rheumatic, scrofulous, and cutaneous
-disorders. The ride over the sands to Aberdovey, a rising place about
-four miles distant, is very pleasant. A beautiful line of road to that
-interesting village has been constructed, and is continued from that
-place to Pennal, abounding with picturesque scenery, and commanding views
-of Snowdon, Arran Mowddwy, Cader Idris, and Plinlimmon.
-
-Towyn is one of the places at which the poll is appointed to be taken in
-the election of the parliamentary representative of the county. The
-church, dedicated to St. Cadvan, is an ancient cruciform structure, in
-the Norman style of architecture, containing some curious old monuments,
-which the inquisitive stranger ought not to leave unnoticed.
-
-On a steep hill near the town are some remains of an ancient castle of
-great strength; the fortifications comprehend the entire summit of the
-eminence: one of the apartments, thirty-six feet in diameter, was hewn
-out of the solid rock, Craig-y-Deryn (the Bird’s Bock), situated in the
-vale of Dysyni, about three or four miles from Towyn, is in the highest
-degree wild and romantic. A small but picturesque waterfall may be seen
-at Dôlgôch.
-
-At a small distance from the town is Ynys-y-maengwyn, a noble mansion,
-pleasantly situated in grounds tastefully laid out, and embellished with
-flourishing plantations and timber of ancient growth, among which is an
-evergreen oak, considered to be the finest tree of its kind in the
-kingdom. The garden is very extensive, and contains many rare trees and
-plants.
-
-The angler will find excellent amusement in the Dysyni, which, after
-rolling through a rude assemblage of rugged mountains, flows through the
-fertile vale of Towyn, passing first by Peniarth, a seat belonging to the
-Wynn family, and then by Ynys-y-maengwyn, and finally entering Cardigan
-bay, about a mile eastward of Towyn. This is an excellent river for
-salmon, and it contains some remarkably dark and deep pools, more
-especially near Peniarth, where the river winds close by the house; the
-angler will also find good sport farther up the mountains.
-
- ANGLING STATION.—The river, up to Tal-y-Llyn.
-
-
-
-TRAWS-FYNYDD,
-(_Merionethshire_.)
-
-Bala 18
-Dolgelley 12
-
-This village is situated on the road from Dolgelley to Tan-y-Bwlch, in an
-exposed and mountainous district. The church is an ancient structure of
-the old English style of architecture; the parish is of vast extent,
-being above ten miles in length, and eight in breadth, consisting chiefly
-of barren mountains, used only as sheep-walks. At this place a guide may
-be had to the waterfalls of Pistyll-y-Cain and Rhaiadr-y-Mawddach,
-distant about three or four miles.
-
-On the road side towards Ffestiniog is Llyn Rathlyn, a small lake, noted
-for a singular variety of perch, having the lower extremity of the
-back-bone strangely distorted. The celebrated Humphrey Lloyd, who was
-consecrated Bishop of Bangor in 1673, was born at Bôd-y-Vuddai, in the
-parish of Traws-fynydd.
-
-
-
-TREMADOC,
-(_Caernarvonshire_.)
-
-Barmouth 20
-Ditto, by Tan-y-Bwlch 30
-Beddgelert 7
-Caernarvon 20
-Ffestiniog 13
-Harlech 10
-Ditto, by Tan-y-Bwlch 20
-Pwllheli 14
-Tan-y-Bwlch 10
-
-Tremadoc is a market-town and sea-port of very recent origin, and is a
-signal instance of the triumph of perseverance over apparently
-insurmountable local difficulties. It derives its name from its
-enterprising founder, the late Wm. Alexander Madock, Esq. This
-gentleman, having projected a plan for regaining from the sea a portion
-of the land on the western side of the wide sandy estuary called the
-Traeth Mawr, purchased the estate of Tan-yr-Allt, in the immediate
-vicinity, in 1798, and in 1800 succeeded in recovering a tract of nearly
-two thousand acres of rich land, then forming Penmorfa Marsh, which now
-produces excellent crops of wheat, barley, and clover, to which he gave
-the appropriate name of Glandwr.
-
-Encouraged by the success of his first attempt, Mr. Madock was induced to
-undertake the more arduous enterprise of reclaiming the whole of the
-Traeth Mawr; and for this purpose he obtained in 1808 an act of
-parliament, vesting in him and his heirs the whole extent of these sands,
-from Pont Aberglâslyn, at their head, to the point of Gêst, at their
-lower extremity. Notwithstanding the numerous unforeseen obstacles which
-threatened to frustrate the undertaking, Mr. Madock succeeded in
-constructing across the mouth of the Traeth Mawr, at the eastern
-extremity of Cardigan bay, an embankment of earth and stones, nearly one
-mile in length, from north to south, varying from 100 to 400 feet in
-breadth at the base, and diminishing gradually to the summit, which is
-100 feet high from the foundation. By means of this embankment, a line
-of communication has been formed between the counties of Caernarvon and
-Merioneth, and a tract of more than 2700 acres of land was recovered from
-the sea, besides a vast extent of adjoining land, which was before
-overflowed by the tides, but which is now, by draining, rendered
-susceptible of cultivation. This arduous enterprise was completed in
-1811, at an expense of more than £100,000; and, including the lands
-previously recovered, not less than 7,000 acres have been gained.
-
-The town is situated by the side of a lofty mountain, on the western side
-of Traeth Mawr, on a portion of the tract first recovered from the sea,
-and is built in the form of a square quadrangular area, having in the
-centre a lofty column, round the pedestal of which there is a flight of
-twelve steps. On the eastern side a commodious market-house has been
-erected, above which is an assembly-room. Mr. Madock also built, at his
-own expense, a handsome church, in the late style of English
-architecture, with a lofty spire, which forms an interesting object as
-seen from the sea-coast.
-
-Tan-yr-Allt, the seat of the late W. A. Madock, Esq., is a spacious
-modern mansion of elegant design, situated on a rock overlooking the
-town. Morfa Lodge, and Tuhwnt-i’r-Bwlch, erected also by that gentleman,
-are handsome villas in the immediate vicinity of the town. Captain
-Parry, R.N. of Llwyn-on, Denbighshire, has also a seat called Aberdunant,
-between this place and Beddgelert.
-
-With a view to promote the commercial interests of the town which he had
-founded, Mr. Madock, in 1821, obtained an act of parliament for improving
-the navigation of this part of the bay on which it is situated, and thus
-rendered it accessible to vessels of three hundred tons burden:
-commodious quays and wharfs were also constructed.
-
-The last improvement carried into effect was the erection of Port Madoc,
-about one mile from the town, where many good houses have been built.
-The principal exports are slates, from the Ffestiniog quarries, and
-copper ore, which is brought from the neighbouring mines. The chief
-imports are timber, coal, and lime. A rail-road also runs to this place
-from the quarries and mines in the neighbourhood. The road from Tremadoc
-to Beddgelert commands to great advantage the scenery of the
-Merionethshire side of the Traeth, and affords a delightful ride to Pont
-Aberglaslyn and its vicinity.
-
-
-
-WELSHPOOL,
-(_Montgomeryshire_.)
-
-Llanfair 8
-London 171
-Montgomery 8
-Newtown 14
-Oswestry 16
-Shrewsbury 18
-
-This town is called Welsh, to distinguish it from a town of the same name
-in Dorsetshire, and Pool, from its proximity to a piece of water called
-Llyn-du Pool, now within the inclosure of Powys park. The town, which
-Leland describes as being in the reign of Henry the Eighth, “the best
-market in Powys,” still retains that character, in addition to which it
-may justly be regarded as the modern capital of the county, and, with the
-parish, contains 4626 inhabitants. The town has a cheerful and
-prepossessing appearance. The flannel manufacture is carried on here,
-but upon a less scale than at Llanidloes or Newtown. A considerable
-trade is carried on in malt, and there are likewise several large
-tanneries. Welshpool is made contributory with Llanidloes, Llanfyllyn,
-Machynlleth, Montgomery, and Newtown, in returning a member to
-parliament. The assizes for the county are held here. The town-hall is
-a commodious building of brick, in the centre of the principal street.
-
-The church, with the exception of the chancel and the tower, was rebuilt
-in 1774. It is in the early style of English architecture, with a lofty
-square embattled tower, and its interior accommodation was enlarged by
-the addition of galleries in 1824. Amongst the communion plate, there is
-a chalice of fine gold, holding one quart, and valued at £170; engraved
-on it is a Latin inscription, stating it to have been presented to the
-church of Pool, by Thomas Davies, Governor-general of the English
-colonies on the western coast of Africa, in gratitude for the
-preservation of his life during his residence in that unhealthy clime.
-
-
-Powys Castle,
-
-
-the seat of the Earl of Powys, is a stately but irregular pile of
-building, venerable for its antiquity: it is pleasantly situated in a
-well-wooded park, at the distance of a mile from the town, on the right
-of the road leading to Montgomery, and occupies a commanding site on a
-ridge of rocks overlooking a vast extent of richly diversified country,
-the greater part of which was formerly subject to its lord. The views
-from its extensive and richly wooded park are remarkably interesting and
-beautiful.
-
-
-Angling Stations.
-
- _Distances from Welshpool_. _Miles_.
-Berriew, on the confluence of the Rhiw and Severn 5
-Llandysylio, on the Vyrnwy 8
-Llandrinio 9
-Llanvyllin, the Abel, Cain, and Vyrnwy 12
-
-WREXHAM,
-(_Denbighshire_.)
-
-Chester 12
-Llangollen 11½
-Oswestry 6
-Ruthin 16
-
-Wrexham is a large and well-built town, whose population, including the
-parish, was returned in 1841 at 12,981 inhabitants. From its extent and
-importance, it has sometimes been denominated the metropolis of North
-Wales. The town is pleasantly situated at the junction of the
-Shrewsbury. Welshpool, Oswestry, and Chester roads, and in the centre of
-the mining and manufacturing districts of the eastern part of
-Denbighshire. Races are annually held early in October, on a course a
-little north-west of the town, on the right of the road to Mold. Wrexham
-is one of the principal stations on the Shrewsbury and Chester Railway.
-
-No particular branch of trade or manufacture is carried on in the town;
-but the parish, which is about twelve miles in length, abounds with
-mineral wealth, and extensive works of various kinds are carried on in
-different parts of it. The principal inns are the Wynnstay Arms and the
-Lion. Markets are held on Thursday and Saturday, the former being the
-chief market day. There are several fairs held annually for cattle; but
-the principal one is that which commences on the 23d of March, and
-continues for fourteen days. For the accommodation of the various
-dealers attending it, five extensive areas are fitted up with shops and
-booths. A new and handsome market-hall has also been lately built, and
-cheese fairs established. Wrexham is contributory with Denbigh, Holt,
-and Ruthin, in the return of a parliamentary representative.
-
-The church, dedicated to St. Giles, is a spacious and noble Gothic
-structure, deservedly regarded as one of the finest ecclesiastical
-edifices in the Principality. It was erected in the year 1472, the tower
-not being finished till 1506, as appears by a date on the building. The
-exterior is elaborately embellished with sculpture; and the tower, which
-is very lofty and highly enriched, consists of several successive stages,
-panelled throughout, and decorated with numerous statues of saints in
-canopied niches: from its elevation, and the light open-work turrets by
-which it is crowned at the angles, it forms a conspicuous and interesting
-object in the surrounding landscape. It has a remarkably fine carved
-roof: and a noble altar-piece, designed by Mr. Jones of Chester, and
-worked in stone by Mr. Blayney of that city; the east window being filled
-with beautifully stained glass by Mr. Evans, of Shrewsbury.
-
-In the chancel is an altar-tomb, on which is a recumbent effigy of Dr.
-Bellot, successively Bishop of Bangor and Chester, who died in 1596, and
-was there interred. Nearly opposite to this tomb is an interesting
-monument, by Roubilliac, to the memory of Mrs. Mary Myddelton, of Chirk
-Castle, representing a female rising from the tomb in all the freshness
-of youth and beauty, at the sound of the last trumpet which is to summon
-the dead to judgment. At the corner of the aisle is also a monument by
-Roubilliac, to the Rev. Thomas Myddelton and Arabella his wife; and there
-are monuments to Wm. Lloyd, Esq. and his son, the Fitzhughs, the
-Pulestons, the Longuevilles, Sir Foster and Lady Cunliffe, and other
-families in the neighbourhood..
-
-About a mile from Wrexham, on the right of the road leading to Chester,
-is Acton Park, the residence of Sir R. H. Cunliffe, Bart., a spacious
-mansion, delightfully situated in extensive grounds, richly diversified
-with picturesque and romantic scenery, and commanding pleasing views of
-the town and adjacent country. Acton was the birth-place of the
-notorious Judge Jeffreys, who obtained so bad an eminence in the reign of
-James the Second.
-
-
-
-
-INDEX.
-
- PAGE.
-Aber 1
-Aberdaron 5
-Aberdovey 6
-Aberffraw 7
-Abergele 8
-Aberystwyth 13
-Acton Park 206
-Amlwch 22
-Bala 24
-Bangor (Caernarvonshire) 28
-Bangor Is-y-coed 52
-Bardsey Island 6
-Barmouth 53
-Baron Hill 58
-Basingwerk Abbey 133
-Beaumaris 55
-Beaumaris Bay 60
-Beddgelert 63
-Bettws-y-Coed 69
-Buckley Mountain 122
-Cader Idris 70
-Caergwrle 73
-Caernarvon 73
-Caerwys 80
-Capel Curig 82
-Castell Dinas Brân 151
-Cerig-y-Druidion 88
-Cerniogau Mawr 89
-Ceunant Mawr 139
-Chester 89
- (See also Introduction.)
-Chirk 89
-Clynog 92
-Conway 93
-Corwen 99
-Cricaeth 100
-Devil’s Bridge 18
-Dee River 27
-Denbigh 101
-Diganwy 97
-Dinas Mowddwy 105
-Dinorwic 105
-Diserth 105
-Dolbadarn 138
-Dolgelley 106
-Dolwyddelan Castle 83
-Downing 134
-Ewloe Castle 122
-Ffestiniog 110
-Flint 112
-Golden Grove 136
-Gorphwysfa 140
-Gresford 115
-Gwydir 162
-Gwytherin 163
-Gyrn 136
-Hanmer 116
-Harlech 117
-Havod 18
-Hawarden 119
-Holt 124
-Holyhead 124
-Holywell 128
-Hope 73
-Kymmer Abbey 108
-Lake Ogwen 84
-Llanasa 135
-Llanberis 137
-Llanddulas 11
-Llandegai 141
-Llandudno 142
-Llanedwen 143
-Llanelian 143
-Llanerch-y-medd 144
-Llanervul 144
-Llanfair (Anglesea) 146
-Llanfair (Montgomerysh.) 147
-Llanfyllyn 148
-Llangefni 148
-Llangollen 149
-Llangynog 155
-Llanhaiarn 155
-Llanidan 156
-Llanidloes 157
-Llanrhaiadr 159
-Llanrhaiadr-yn-Mochnant 160
-Llanrwst 160
-Llanvaes Abbey 60
-Llyn Idwal 85
-Machynlleth 164
-Maen-twrog 166
-Maes Garmon 170
-Mallwyd 168
-Menai Bridge 33
-Menai Railway Bridge 38
-Moel Fammau 171
-Moel Siabod 83
-Mold 168
-Mona Inn 172
-Montgomery 172
-Mostyn Hall 135
-Nannau Park 109
-Nant Ffrancon 84
-Nevyn 173
-Newborough 174
-Newmarket 174
-Newtown 176
-Northop 177
-Offa’s Dyke 170
-Ogwen Bank 44
-Oswestry 177
-Overton 178
-Penmaen Mawr 178
-Penmaen Priory 60
-Penmorfa 179
-Penmynydd 180
-Penrhyn Castle 40
-Pentraeth 59
-Pentre Voelas 180
-Pillar of Eliseg 152
-Pistyll Rhaiadr 160
-Plâs Newydd 150
-Plâs Newydd (Anglesea) 180
-Plinlimmon 158
-Pont Aberglaslyn 68
-Pont Cysylltau 152
-Pont-y-Glyn 181
-Powys Castle 205
-Puffin Island 61
-Pwllheli 182
-Rhaiadr-y-Wennol 84
-Rhuddlan 183
-Rhyl 185
-Ruabon 186
-Ruthin 188
-Slate Quarries, near Bangor 42
-Snowdon 193
-St. Asaph 191
-St. George 12
-Talacre 136
-Tal-y-llyn 199
-Tan-y-Bwlch 166
-The Tower (Mold) 171
-Towyn 200
-Traws-fynydd 202
-Trefriw 163
-Tremadoc 202
-Vale Crucis Abbey 151
-Vale of Clwyd 190
-Welshpool 204
-Wrexham 205
-Wynnstay 187
-
-MAP.
-
-
-[The book contains a large map which unfortunately is too big to scan
-entire. It’s provided here as four parts.—DP.]
-
- North-West Wales (top)
-
- [Picture: North-West Wales, top]
-
- North-East Wales (top)
-
- [Picture: North-East Wales, top]
-
- North-West Wales (bottom)
-
- [Picture: North-West Wales, bottom]
-
- North-East Wales (bottom)
-
- [Picture: North-East Wales, bottom]
-
-
-
-
-FOOTNOTES.
-
-
-{0} The largest stone arch before known is Vielle Briode, which crosses
-the river Allien, in France, whose span is 183 feet, being 17 feet less
-than the Chester bridge. It was erected in 1454, by Grenier.
-
-{8} From _Aber_, rivulet—_Gele_, woody, secluded; a name very
-characteristic of the place, as the rivulet running through it issues out
-of deep wood ravines above the town.
-
-{10} The silurian rocks to the west of Abergele, have recently been
-brought under the notice of the Geological Society by Mr. J. E. Bowmall.
-That gentleman, in an able paper presented to the society, states that
-his attention was first directed to these strata by the Rev. J. Price, of
-Llysfaen. They occur immediately south of the narrow belt of
-carboniferous limestone which skirts the coast from the Great Ormeshead
-to the point of Ayr, and the estuary of the Dee. The section described
-by Mr. Bowmall presents the following series of beds in descending order,
-many of the fossils discovered in them being identified with those found
-in the Ludlow formation of Shropshire:—1. Carboniferous limestone. 2.
-Light coloured loam enclosing rounded pebbles of greenish, slightly
-micaceous sandstone with shells. 3. Bed of the same sandstone. 4. Red
-marl of considerable thickness, with imbedded angular and waterworn
-pebbles, and numerous fossils. 5. Arenaceous conglomerate, consisting
-partly of the pebbles of the underlying limestone. 6. Thin beds of
-compact reddish limestone, sometimes very arenaceous, and containing a
-few fossils. 7. Blue clay. 8. Blue clay slate, occasionally enclosing
-layers of organic remains, and forming the geological base of the
-country.
-
-{12} There is a tradition current in this neighbourhood, that Oliver
-Cromwell was concealed at Kinmel, when Carter (his general) lived there;
-and there is a spur of extraordinary dimensions still hung in the above
-church, which is called Oliver Cromwell’s spur.
-
-{73} Called by the Welsh, ESTYN.
-
-{76} So called from the circumstance of Eleanor (daughter of Ferdinand
-the Third) the consort of Edward, who was brought, through the inclemency
-of a hard winter, to bear a prince for the Welsh,—having first entered
-the castle through this gate. At this time the castle was entirely
-insulated, on one side by artificial means: the moat was destroyed by
-being filled up two or three centuries ago, which somewhat detracts from
-our estimate of its former impregnable character.
-
-‘Edward had annexed Wales to the kingdom of England, but the Welsh were
-displeased with this usurpation, and determined to yield no obedience to
-any prince but of their own nation and language. Edward thought of an
-expedient for cozening them. He ordered Eleanor, in the depth of winter,
-out of England to Caernarvon Castle, there to lie in. Edward then
-summoned all the barons and chief persons throughout Wales to meet him at
-Rhuddlan, to consult about the welfare of their country. He told the
-Welsh nobility that they had often wished for a prince of their own
-country, who might rule over them. They promised to allow of such an
-appointment, and to obey such a personage. Edward then mentioned _his
-own son Edward_, recently born, maintaining the terms of the engagement
-to have been strictly complied with, for his son was born in Wales, could
-speak no English, and his character irreproachable. Though born in 1284,
-it was not before he had reached his 16th year that Prince Edward
-received the reluctant fealty of his deluded subjects. The eldest sons
-of the English monarchs have subsequently been styled Prince of Wales,
-and, independently of birth, been created so by letters
-patent.’—_Nicholson_.
-
-{87} Dunawt was the son of Nefydd Hardd, one of the fifteen tribes of
-North Wales: to him Prince Owen Gwynedd had intrusted his son to be
-fostered, according to the usual custom.
-
-{102a} The common Welsh name is Eglwys-wen, and the translation is a
-vulgarism.
-
-{102b} Richard Myddelton was the father of Sir Hugh Myddelton, who
-brought the new river to London.
-
-{130} Sych, i.e. _dry_, and nant, a _hollow_, a _brook_.
-
-{140} The term _Cromlech_, used to signify a Druidical altar, cannot be
-property attached to this stone: it being quite improbable that it ever
-was used to such purpose; but the continued action of the elements has
-placed it as it is.
-
-{146} There being several parishes of this name in the Principality,
-this is distinguished by the adjunction of Mathavarneithav.
-
-
-
-
-***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXCURSIONS IN NORTH WALES***
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