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diff --git a/old/64154-0.txt b/old/64154-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 7f4b657..0000000 --- a/old/64154-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2459 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Ten Days' Tour through the Isle of Anglesea, -by John Skinner - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: Ten Days' Tour through the Isle of Anglesea - December, 1802 - - -Author: John Skinner - - - -Release Date: December 28, 2020 [eBook #64154] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TEN DAYS' TOUR THROUGH THE ISLE OF -ANGLESEA*** - - -Transcribed from the July 1908 Charles J. Clark edition by David Price. - - Archaeologia Cambrensis - - - - - - TEN DAYS’ TOUR - THROUGH - THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA - - - DECEMBER, 1802 - - BY - REV. JOHN SKINNER - RECTOR OF CAMERTON, SOMERSETSHIRE - - [Picture: Decorative shield graphic] - - _SUPPLEMENT_, _JULY_, 1908. - - * * * * * - - LONDON: - Published for the Cambrian Archaeological Association by - CHARLES J. CLARK, 65, CHANCERY LANE, W.C. - - * * * * * - - - - -INTRODUCTION - - -THE REV. JOHN SKINNER’S _Ten Days’ Tour Through Anglesey_, which is given -in the following pages, has been carefully transcribed from the -manuscript in the British Museum, the punctuation, spelling, and use of -capitals followed strictly throughout. Some notes have been kindly -furnished by Mr. E. Neil Baynes, F.S.A., and he has also copied (in black -and white) most of the water-colour illustrations which are included in -the manuscript. The illustrations are reduced from the original size, -but with this exception and the absence of colour they have been copied -as closely as possible, with all errors of perspective, etc. Some of the -drawings would appear to have been done by Mr. Skinner in the evening -from memory, and not on the spot. The complete list is printed herewith, -and the pages where the plates appear in the original. A copy of an -extract from Mr. Skinner’s will is subjoined, in which he expresses his -particular wish that the chests containing his numerous notebooks should -not be opened until the expiration of fifty years from the day of his -death. - - * * * * * - - _Extracted from the Principal Registry of the Probate Divorce_ - _and Admiralty Division of the High Court of Justice_ - _In the Prerogative Court of Canterbury_. - -IN THE WILL of the Reverend JOHN SKINNER late Rector of Camerton in the -county of Somerset deceased dated 1st February 1839 is as follows:— - -No. 2. I give and bequeath to the trustees of the British Museum all my -Journals and other Manuscripts transcribed by my late brother Russell -from No. 1 to No. 110 both inclusive and interleaved with original -drawings together with the Journals I have made in my own hand-writing -since my brother’s death from the year one thousand eight hundred and -thirty three to the year one thousand eight hundred and thirty-eight in -volume 1 to volume 36 of an Octavo size with blue Morocco backs -containing altogether in number one hundred and forty six which I desire -may be safely conveyed to the trustees of the British Museum with the -five Iron Chests in which they are now contained and I request my said -executor the Reverend John Hammond to see to the performance of this -bequest in the manner aforesaid and it is my particular wish and request -that neither of the Iron Chests with the contents aforesaid shall be -opened till after the expiration of fifty years from the day of my death -but provided the trustees of the British Museum should raise any -objection thereto it is my will that my before mentioned request should -not be insisted upon. - - Proved (with two Codicils) - 14th November 1839 - Fos 4 - J J C - 716 Vaughan - -N.B.—It is not to be inferred that the foregoing extract contains the -only portion of the said Will referring to the matters therein mentioned. - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. - - PAGE -1. Plâs Goch 23 -2. Blochty Enclosures 25 -3. Bryn Gwyn. Stone by Cottage 27 -4. Ground Plans, Caer Leb, etc. 28 -6, 7. Bodowyr Cromlech (2) 30, 31 -8, 9, 10, 11. Carnedd at Plas Newydd (4) 34, 37 -12. Cromlech at Plas Newydd 39 - Cromlech and Stables (omitted) -5. Ground Plan, Bryn Gwydryn, etc. 42 - Coins of Edward VI and Elizabeth - (omitted) - Bryn Celli, Plan and Finds 44 - Llanidan Church 49 -16. Stone (Fitzgerald) in Llanidan Church 50 -17. Maen Llwyd Cromlech 52 -18. Frondeg Stone 53 -19. Llangadwaladr Church 55 -20. Llangadwaladr Doorway, showing Stone 56 - Inscription to Rich. Williams (omitted - as it is in the text). -21. Llangadwaladr Church Inscribed Stone 57 -22. Henblas Cromlech 60 -23. Cerrigceinwen Church 63 -24, 25. Cerrigceinwen Church Clochti (2) 64, 55 -26, 27, 28. Cerrigceinwen Church Font (2) 66, 68 -29. Aberffraw Church Arch 70 - Llangwyfan Church (omitted) -31. Llangwyfan Church, Interior 72 -32. Llangwyfan House 74 -33. Cromlech at Mynydd y Cnwc 75 - A half-finished sketch of Trecastel - Bay (omitted) -34. Llanfaelog Cromlech (2) 78, 79 -36. Crighyll Cromlech 81 -37, 39. Presaddfedd Cromlech (3) 84, 86 - Proposed Menai Bridge (omitted) -41. Llantrisant Stone - Pabo Stone (omitted, _vide Arch. - Camb._, January, 1908) - Doorway at Llanbabo (omitted, _vide - Arch. Camb._, January, 1908) -45. Llanfechell Stones - Llanfechell Church and Font -46. Llaneilian Church - Parys Mine (omitted) -48. Three Stones (near Amlwch) -49. Llanol Stone -50. Cromlech on Bodafon Mountain and - Carreg Lleidr - Coin of Diocletian (omitted) -51. View of Bodafon Mountain from N.W. -52. View of Bodafon Mountain from S.E. -53. Stones in Penrhos lligwy Churchyard -54. Lligwy Cromlech -55. Lligwy Cromlech, Caer Lligwy -56. Llanallgo Cromlech and Font (_vide_ - note) - Stones at Marianglas (omitted) -58. Llaniestyn Stone -59. Llaniestyn Font -60, 61. Cromlech at Trefor (2) - Altar Tomb in Penmynydd Church, - sketched from memory (omitted) - -No. 99. The stepped gable over the gateway should, I think, be over the -porch, and the pointed gable shown over the porch should be over the -gateway, but I am not certain. - -No. 115. The font described as in Penrhoslligwy Church is really the old -font of Llanallgo. It was covered with plaster and set on a rough mass -of masonry. When the Church was restored, about fifteen years ago, the -plaster was cut away and the font was redressed. - - * * * * * - -N.B.—The beginning of a page in the original is marked by the -introduction in the text of folio and number between brackets, thus (fol. -22). - - _Additional MSS._ 33,636 - - This book was transcribed from my Journal by my - brother RUSSELL SKINNER (who was the companion - of my Tour) Anno Dom: 1804 - - * * * * * - - - - -SKETCHES IN ANGLESEA -TAKEN IN DECEMBER 1802 - - - BY - REVD. JOHN SKINNER - - 1802 - 62 - - 1740 - -I give this Vol. of my Anglesea Tour with my other Journals, to the -British Museum to be retained by them according to the directions I have -left in my will respecting the disposal of my MSS. - - (fol. 22) - - - - -TEN DAYS’ TOUR THE -ISLE OF ANGLESEA -ANNO 1802 - - -THURSDAY, DECEMBER 2 - - -WE left Capel Cerig early this morning on horseback with the design of -examining the Celtic remains in the Isle of Anglesea the Harper of the -inn accompanying us in the capacity of interpreter. After a ride of -fifteen miles along the vale of Nantffrancon by Lord Penrhyn’s quarries -we came to Moel-don ferry about eleven o’clock when returning our horses -by a boy (fol. 22_a_) (previously sent forward for the purpose from Capel -Cerig) we proceeded as pedestrians. Our passage across the Menai -savoured somewhat of quixottism for the ferry boat being on the other -side waiting for passengers we were unable to brook the delay so taking -possession of a fisherman’s skiff lying on the beach we rowed to the -Island pursuing nearly the same track as the Romans seventeen hundred -years ago under the command of Paulinus Suetonius which event is so -particularly described by Tacitus. - - [Picture: No. 1. Plâs Goch, December 2] - - [Picture: No. 2. Sketch] - -On our landing we immediately made the necessary enquiries at a public -house for the route we were to pursue and found the places we had noted -down lay so wide asunder it would be impossible to comprehend them in the -course of the day. We accordingly determined on making that our sleeping -place and after a slight meal (fol. 24) took the road across the fields -to Llanidan. In our way passed an ancient mansion called Plâs Goch -apparently built in the time of Elizabeth. A little way beyond the house -is a natural barrier of rock rising abruptly above the level ground and -extending almost the whole way to Porthamel the distance of half a mile. -Near this place in a meadow the Romans are supposed to have formed their -ranks immediately on landing and the field to this day retains the name -of Pant y scraffie, or the place of the passage boats. At low tides the -channel is not above three or four feet deep so that it might easily have -been crossed by the cavalry in the manner described by the Historian and -the natural barrier before mentioned being so contiguous, it is not at -all improbable that it was the first post occupied by the Romans under -Paulinus Suetonius on their invasion of the island 1740 years ago. -“Igitur Monam insulam, incolis validam et receptaculum perfugarum adgredi -parat, navesque fabricatur plano alveo adversus breve litus (flat -bottomed boats to pass over the shallows) et incertum—sic pedes—(the -infantry thus passed over) equites vado secuti aut altiores inter undas -adnantes equis tramisere.” The cavalry followed the infantry, and by -fording and swimming over the deeper channels arrived at the opposite -side. Tac. Ann. lib. 14, c. 29. A few minutes’ walk brought us to -Llanidan church, which seems superior to (fol. 24_a_) the generality of -Welsh buildings of the kind having a double roof and two bells in the -clochti or belfry. A large irregular built mansion {11a} belonging to -Mr. Williams who has acquired such immense property in the Pary’s Mines -stands close to it. From Llanidan we took the road to Bryn Shenkin half -a mile beyond. It is where Mr. Roland supposes the Britons formerly had -a town but now every trace is lost. Having procured a lad well -acquainted with the neighbourhood to conduct us by the nearest route we -quickly proceeded to Blochti half a mile further to the north-west. {11b} -At this place on a steep bank or rather ridge of rock (a quarry being now -worked beneath) we traced the foundations of four or five circular -buildings in a line close to each other each measuring nearly seven yards -in diameter. The same gentleman Mr. Rowland describes these as the -remains (fol. 26) of British habitations and his opinion seems to be -confirmed by some others of a similar form lying in a meadow called -Tan-ben-y-cefn not two hundred yards from the spot. These latter are -surrounded by two quadrangular earthworks the larger fifty yards by forty -containing four of these circular foundations the smaller (forty yards by -thirty) only two. It is not improbable that some of the Roman soldiers -might have occupied this spot after driving the inhabitants from their -possessions and that the earth works were thrown up by them by way of -security. - - [Picture: No. 3. Druidical Stone standing near a Cottage called Bryn - Gwyn] - -Crossing a barren marshy heath we saw the banks of a circular work -probably formed for the same purpose as that we before noticed at -Caerleon and I presume was a gymnasium or place of exercise (the country -people indeed have an idea it was a fortification as our guide informed -us it still goes by the name of the Castle. {13a} Whatever it was it -does not appear to have been at all connected with the Druidical worship -(fol. 26_a_) as Mr. Rowland supposes). The mound encompassing the area -may be from ten to fifteen feet in height the diameter of the circle -sixty yards. This measurement I believe is nearly accurate but part of -the circle having been destroyed in order to form a cart road makes it -more difficult to determine with certainty. On enquiring for some -ancient stones noticed by Mr. Roland at a place called Bryn Gwyn we were -directed to one standing near a cottage a quarter of a mile to the -north-west {13b} of the circus. It was of a lozenge form measuring above -three yards in height and two in width. We observed none of equal -dimensions near at hand but in a field at the back of the cottage there -were six each about a yard high placed three and three at equal distances -so as to form two exact triangles. From hence we proceeded along higher -ground to a farm house called (fol. 29) Tref Drw (Druids town) where some -of that venerable order are said to have resided. Now the name alone -records the circumstance to posterity as there is nothing remaining which -can be attributed to so remote a period. But not far distant we were -directed to a quadrangular earth work thrown up on marshy ground near the -brook (or as it is termed by the inhabitants the river Briant). {14a} -The outer mound {14b} measures fifty yards by forty and is about five -feet in height the trench 12 feet wide. Near the centre of the enclosure -we noticed the foundation of another of the circular huts above mentioned -and in an angle to the south east appearances of walls and buildings. -The course of the river must have altered considerably in aftertimes -otherwise the Romans would hardly have chosen so damp a spot even for a -temporary encampment. Still continuing in a northerly direction and -leaping over the river Briant we regained the higher ground near (fol. -29_a_) Bodower {15a} house which is at present occupied by a farmer who -rents the property of Lord Boston. Here we were gratified by the sight -of a very perfect chromlech standing in a field to the N.W. {15b} of the -house. The upper stone terminates in a ridge like the roof of a building -and measures seven feet four inches long three feet deep and four wide: -this is sustained by three supporters each three feet in height & nearly -the same in thickness. That cromlechs were not always used (if they were -at all) as altars for sacrifice I think may be demonstrated by the one -before us (as its Pyramidical form is by no means adapted to the purpose. -Indeed there is a tradition amongst the Welsh that this rude memorial was -erected over the grave of a British princess named Bronwen who flourished -in the year of the world 3105!!!!). My sketches being finished we -hastened on hoping to reach Mafyrian {16a} a mile and a half further -before the evening closed in but owing to a mistake of the guide’s we -lost our way and wandered about until it grew quite dark. Our -disappointment however was in some respect alleviated (fol. 32) by the -intelligence we received of some Roman coins in possession of a person at -Tre Evan {16b} a cottage we were to pass on our return. The moon having -by this time risen above the horizon we had a pleasant walk to Tre Evan -and entering the door made known the purport of our visit to the good -lady of the house who readily acknowledged she once had a great many bits -of brass money but thinking them of no value had given them her children -to play with. On our anxious request through our interpreter for a more -exact scruitiny in this important concern she began rumaging a little -cupboard and at length produced a counterfeit shilling of William the -third which she said was all that she retained of any money. This was a -mortifying termination to our suspence as we were in hope a few (fol. -32_a_) might have escaped the general dispertion. On enquiring how the -brass coins came into her possession she informed us that about six years -ago whilst a labourer was building a wall round a field near her house he -took materials for the purpose from the foundations of some circular -buildings (similar to those at Blochti) in one of which he discovered a -millstone containing in the cavity at the centre about two quarts of -brass coins. He also dug up a smaller millstone which she still retained -in her cottage. On producing it I found it of a close texture and tho’ -only ten inches in diameter weighing twenty-six pounds. This probably -belonged to a hand mill as it seems to resemble those I noticed in my -excursion along the Roman wall. By the way the circumstance of finding -these coins hid in the foundation of a circular building sufficiently -proves that the Romans occupied the premises after the Britons had -quitted them. We returned at seven o’clock to Moel-don and supped in -company with a young clergyman just appointed to the curacy of the -parish. He proved an agreeable companion and gave us some interesting -(fol. 33) information regarding the new regulations at Oxford. On -retiring to our sleeping apartments we found them altogether the most -homely I ever occupied. However as we had made up our minds not to -quarrel with trivial difficulties we resigned ourselves to our lot -without murmuring and sleep soon veiled all in oblivion. - - [Picture: No. 4. Sketch] - - [Picture: No. 6. Side view of Bodowyr Cromlech] - - [Picture: No. 7. End view of Bodowyr Cromlech] - - - -FRIDAY, DECR. 3 - - -We were up early this morning but it rained so fast we could not leave -the house till ten. I employed the interval in copying a map of the -Island on a large scale which is to be filled up as we proceed. -Accompanied by our new acquaintance we first visited Llanedwyn {17} -church where he officiates for the first time next Sunday. The church -yard and a great part of the parish has lately been enclosed by Lord -Uxbridge’s park walls and we were not a little surprized to find a (fol. -33_a_) porter’s lodge and a locked gate on the church road. - -In the church yard is a flat stone with a Latin inscription to Rowlands -the antiquarian who held this living with Llanidan for many years. We -found by the date that he died in one thousand seven hundred and -twenty-seven. - -What is very extraordinary for the author of such a book as _Mona -Antiqua_ we were told he was never above once out of the Island in his -life. - - [Picture: No. 8. Carnedd in Lord Uxbridge’s Park, North Side] - -Llanedwyn church is said by this gentleman to have been originally -founded by Edwen neice or daughter to king Edwin anno domini six hundred -and four though none of the present building we presume can boast of that -antiquity it being formed after the present model of Welsh churches. Yet -it retains its bason for holy water, its modern crosses, and a curious -inscription cut on the back of one of the pews, the letters running in a -circle with I. H. S. in the centre. I believe the inscription is Welsh: -the character (fol. 38) apparently that made use of in the time of Henry -the seventh. From hence we pursued our walk across the park towards Lord -Uxbridge’s house stopping in the way to examine a very large Carnedd {18} -or artificial hillock formed of loose stones but now overgrown with turf -and trees. This remain is one of the most considerable in the island -measuring one hundred and thirty-four paces in circumference. On walking -round it we observed a square opening on the south side which I entered -on my hands and knees and found it about ten feet long, four wide and -three high, the sides formed of three large flat stones placed edgeways -in the ground supporting the roof which consists of only two. I have -endeavoured to be as exact as I could in my drawings of this cistfaen -(which without doubt it was) and employed as the grave of some -considerable personage (folio 38_a_) in ancient times though Mr. Rowlands -appropriates the carnedd to a very different use and connects it with the -religion of the Druids. In his time three skeletons were discovered in -digging near the surface of the carnedd which gave him an idea of its -being a place of sacrifice but he had never an opportunity of viewing the -interior (the opening having been discovered within these few years) he -was unable to speak with certainty on the subject. This was certainly -the mode of sepulture among the Britons, and northern invaders before the -introduction of Christianity, and many of the open parts of England -especially Wiltshire & Dorsetshire abound in them, there they are -denomenated barrows, in Derbyshire & the northern counties they are -called lows. The term carnedd implies a heap of stones. - - [Picture: No. 9. South Side and Entrance of the Carnedd] - - [Picture: No. 10. Ground Plan of the Cisfaen within the Carnedd] - - [Picture: No. 11. Interior of the Cisfaen, the Right-hand Side on - Entering] - - [Picture: No. 12. Cromlech in Lord Uxbridge’s Park] - -From hence we proceeded to look at a very large cromlech {20} or -Druidical altar preserved in the Park near his lordship’s stables. In -our way there we passed in front of the house a vast pile of building -designed by Wyatt and recently fitted up with every elegance of modern -refinement but as the family (fol. 41) were at home we could not visit -the interiour. However I made a drawing of the cromlech which is nearly -four yards long and above a yard thick, the supporters at the north end -nearly five feet high a smaller stone lying close to the other extremity -measuring three feet long and two and a half thick has also its small -supporters and is to all appearance intended as a separate cromlech. A -large tree spreading its branches over the moss grown stone and the -venerable wood sheltering the park are still very impressive and give -some idea of the enthusiasm these objects were capable of inspiring when -connected with superstition. The stables, not far distant from the spot -are built in a style of gothic architecture resembling an extensive -monastery, the pampered and lazy steeds within their stalls may be -considered as no inapt emblem of the former (fol. 41_a_) inhabitants of -such kind of edifices. From hence we walked to a modern villa situated -in another part of the grounds called Fort Cæsar built by Colonel Peacock -about 20 years since, but on Lord Uxbridge’s purchasing the Colonel’s -estate it was enclosed within that park, as is also a more ancient -mansion called Plâs Llanedwyn besides many farm houses and cottages. The -park wall has not long since been erected, it is built of stone ten feet -high and extends nearly four miles in length. - - [Picture: No. 5] - -Returning to Llanedwyn church we proceeded in company with Mr. Hughes of -Plâs Goch towards Bryn Gwiderin. In our way thither he engaged a young -man well acquainted with the country to conduct us to those places we had -marked out in our list for the day. Bryn Gwiderin {22a} is a natural -ledge of rock resembling what we before noticed at Plâs Goch running for -upwards of two miles towards Bryn Shenkin {22b} the (fol. 43) Beaumaris -road being formed on the summit. The Romans are supposed to have fixed -upon this spot as their principal station in the Island though the shape -of the fortress {23} differs from their usual form being a semicircle -ninety yards across defended by a triple trench to the southward and to -the north by the natural barrier above mentioned. I was anxious to see -whether the walls had been constructed with cement as in the more -finished works of the Romans but could gain no information on the subject -having nothing with us to clear away the rubbish from the surface. On -asking the guide whether they had ever discovered any copper coins, he -said oh yes he had some in his possession and off he ran like a dart to -his cottage nearly half a mile distant. We waited his return hoping at -length our wishes would be gratified in this respect when lo! instead of -coins bearing the effigies of the Cæsars he produced a handful of (fol. -43_a_) rough copper ore, on explaining to him what we wanted saying they -resembled a piece of money he said he had one of that kind also of silver -which he picked up a short time since in a field near home whither he -returned with equal alacrity to procure it and shortly made his -appearance with a shilling of Elizabeth’s!!! So much for coins. There -seems to be a fatality against my collecting any. In my excursion along -the Roman Wall I heard of many but could obtain none. Those I procured -at Caerwent are unfortunately lost many have certainly been dug up in -these parts but either lost or disposed of. We continued our progress -from Bryn Gwyderin in a northerly direction towards Mafyrian the distance -of two miles over heaths & bogs. At this place we expected to meet with -some Druidical remains noticed by Mr. Rowlands but they have all been -cleared (fol. 45) away since his time. At Bodlew we experienced a -similar disappointment. We therefore proceeded towards Llanddeiniol -church in expectation of seeing some painted glass said to have been -presented by the notorious Judge Jeffries whose family formerly resided -here but nothing of the kind was to be seen or indeed anything else for -never was I in so dark or dismal a place. But in this parish we were -fully recompensed for all our former disappointments by the sight of the -Carnedd at Bryn Celli. - - [Picture: Bryn Celli Ddu Cromlech] - -Accompanied by a young farmer who procured a lanthorn for the purpose we -walked nearly a mile to the south east of the church to the spot where in -Mr. Rowlands’ time there were two carnedds remaining having two rude -stone pillars placed between them but these stones have been employed for -the purpose of building a wall near this place as well as a great part -(fol. 45_a_) of the western carnedd which is nearly destroyed for the -same purpose about twenty years ago when the labourers when digging -towards the center discovered a flat pan about ten inches overturned -bottom upwards and under it a wedge of gold as they pretend the size of -the heater of an iron with a piece of wire passing through the smaller -end of it. The father of the young man who was with us happened to be -one of the workmen employed at the time, but as what they found was -immediately taken by Colonel Peacock the proprietor of the ground the man -could give no further account of the circumstance. I should imagine that -what they called the wedge of gold was no other than one of the brazen -celts or sacrificial instruments used in former times which have been -discovered in great numbers in Cornwall and (fol. 46) other parts of the -kingdom. Whilst a farmer was removing some of the stones from the north -east side of the larger carnedd to employ them in his repairs he came to -the mouth of a passage covered with a square stone similar to that at -Plâs Newydd, anxious to reap the fruits of his discovery he procured a -light and crept forward on his hands and knees along the dreary vault, -when lo! in a chamber at the further end a figure in white seemed to -forbid his approach. The poor man had scarcely power sufficient to crawl -backwards out of this den of spirits as he imagined however in the course -of a few days instigated by the hopes of riches and the presence of many -assistants he made his second _entré_ into the cavern and finding the -white gentleman did not offer to stir he boldly went (fol. 46_a_) forward -and discovered the object of his apprehensions was no other than a stone -pillar about six feet in height standing in the centre of the chamber. -His former consternation could now only be exceeded by his eagerness to -see what was contained beneath the stone which he shortly overturned but -treasure there was none, some large human bones lying near the pillar -sufficiently testifying the purpose for which the structure was intended. -This is the substance of the account we received from the young man whose -father was one of Colonel Peacock’s labourers and on the premises at the -time of the discovery. The superstition of the common people still -suppose this to be the habitation of spirits. - -Our two conductors seeming rather to compliment each other about -precedence I took the lanthorn and crawling for about twelve feet along -(fol. 47) a narrow passage got into a more capacious chamber, my -companions followed close at my heels and we assembled to the number of -six in this singular sepulchre. The passage by which we entered is about -three feet high and a little more in breadth and was formed like that we -noticed at Plâs Newydd with flat stones stuck endways and covered with -others of still greater magnitude laid across. I have still my doubts -that if the former was further explored it might terminate in a similar -vault to what we are now speaking of. The height of the chamber is nine -feet, its form nearly triangular some of the sides being about three -yards long and four or five feet high. The intermediate space up to the -roof is filled with stones placed one above the other in the manner they -build walls but without any kind of cement. Two prodigious flat stones -covered the whole one about three yards in length and two in breadth -(fol. 47_a_) the other not quite so large. These are of a gritty -substance not like any stone found in the vicinity. The pillar still -lying in the cavern is a kind of freestone and seems to have been rounded -by the tool. On examining more minutely this singular structure we were -not a little annoyed by a tribe of immense spiders who have reigned here -unmolested for ages the cones containing their young ones suspended from -different parts of the roof nearly as large as those of silk worms. - -I suppose we were in this mansion of the dead half an hour and on -regaining the open air found the evening shut in, and the gloom still -heightened by a heavy rain which accompanied us the whole way to Moel-don -where we arrived very wet to a late dinner and went early to bed. - - - -(Fol. 48) SATURDAY, DECR. 4 - - -We were up as soon as it was light this morning and having taken leave of -our new acquaintance who seems destined to vegetate on sixty pounds per -annum with the charge of three churches and a wife into the bargain, we -proceeded along the shore of the Menai to Llanidan. In our way observed -more particularly Pant y scraffie the meadow where the Romans are -supposed to have effected their landing. Mr. Rowland with some -probability derives y scraffie from the Latin word scaphae a kind of flat -boats or skiffs best adapted for a shallow coast. We stopped a few -minutes at Llanidan to look at the inside of the church. Mr. Williams -senior, who died last week at Bath is expected to be interred here. Like -Sir Benjamin Hamet and Mr. Allen though sprung from a mean origin he -(fol. 48_a_) acquired a princely fortune having been first agent and then -afterwards partner in that lucrative concern the Parys mine. I took a -drawing of Llanidan church and afterwards copied an inscription in the -church yard bearing date 1640 the character differs from most others of -the same period. The interior of the building has little to attract -notice but Russell copied the following inscription to a Mr. Fitz Gerald -who appears to have been resident at the old mansion at Bodowyr in the -beginning of the last century. Some arms of a prior date let into the -wall near the communion table are I believe the same as those placed over -the entrance door of the house. “Here lyeth Price Fitz Gerald of Bodowir -Gent. son of Edmund Fitz Gerald Gent. and Mary Price who died April xii -MDCCIX being lineally descended from Gerard Oge of Rathrown who was (fol. -51) descended from Mac Thomas a younger son of the Earl of Kildare in -Ireland aet xxxiv. iv. M 8 R I P.” The lad who had been our conductor -yesterday still accompanied us and I confess I was not a little pleased -with his disinterested attention. We took nearly the same route we had -done before from Bryn Shenkin to Blochti in order to see a cromlech {28} -called Maen Llhwyd, not having been able to procure any intelligence -respecting it when here the other day. - - [Picture: Llanidan Church] - -The cap stone and its three supporters remain still on the spot but have -long since been thrown prostrate on the ground. If I remember right Mr. -Rowlands speaks of it as a demolished cromlech in his time. The cap -stone is nearly circular measuring about two yards and a half in diameter -and a yard in thickness. The two supporters lying near it are about two -yards each in length, the third we could not take the dimensions of (fol. -51_a_) because the cap stone had fallen over it. - - [Picture: No. 16. Inscriptions at Llanidan] - -From Maen Llhwyd we took the direction to Bodowyr which gave us an -opportunity of seeing Tre Fwry the field in which the Roman coins were -dug up. Four or five circular buildings may here be traced close to the -brook Briant. - - [Picture: No. 17. Maen Llhwyd, a demolished Cromlech near Blochty] - -I believe that most of the stones that form the wall round the field were -taken from this spot. Having taken a rough sketch of the place we -proceeded on to Bodowyr. In a stubble field rather to the westward of -the house we noticed some foundations of buildings covering about an acre -of ground. The country people have a tradition that a large town once -stood here but so many of the stones have been removed to clear the -ground it is impossible to form any idea respecting it. - -Proceeding across the fields for three {30a} miles to the north west we -came to a farm house called Fron Dûg {30b} where we had been directed to -enquire for a stone (fol. 54) with an inscription now employed as a -gatepost on the premises. We soon found the spot and we endeavoured to -trace the rude characters with as much care as possible. I imagine the -stone was intended for a boundary and that the VI and the letters -underneath refer to some measurement of property. The other part I think -is more intelligible and thus read Mad. Filius Lluricini erexit hunc -lapidem. - - [Picture: No. 18. Stone near Frondûg, 5 ft. in height] - - [Picture: No. 19. Llancadwaladr Church] - - [Picture: No. 21. Ancient Characters over the Doorway at Llancadwaladr - Church] - -The farmer living on the spot gave a curious account of the stone having -once been taken away to be employed in building a limekiln by a person in -the neighbourhood but he added with great earnestness that nothing -succeeded with him till he had again restored it to its place. It now -forms a gate post though the gate is hung on the opposite side of the -way. We here separated from the good natured lad who had attended us so -many miles and finding him superior to any pecuniary recompence I gave -(fol. 54_a_) him a silk handkerchief from my neck which he says he shall -keep as long as he lives. Before he left us he made interest at a farm -house for horses to carry us over Malltreath {32a} a swampy flat covered -by the sea at high tides. However we passed without difficulty pushing -straight forwards towards a village church called Treasdreath {32b} and -passed a large stone called Maen hîr. From hence leaving Mr. Meyrick’s -house a large mansion to the left we made the best of our way to -Llancadwaladr church about two miles distant. We had noted down this -place from Mr. Rowlands on account of an ancient inscription placed there -by Cadwalader last king of the Britons to commemorate Catamanus or -Catwallon his grandfather. The characters are very deeply cut on a stone -above four feet long forming the lintern to the doorway of the church and -is read Catamanus Rex sapientissimus opinatissimus omnium (fol. 58) -regum. This Cadfan or Catamanus according to Mr. Rowlands was chosen -King of the Britons anno six hundred and thirteen and is said to have -been buried in the Isle of Bardsey but in Sir John Wynne’s pedigree we -find an account of a Cadwallader of a much later date he being brother of -Owen Gwynnedd stiled king of Wales. Whether this was the person who -founded the church or whether it was built as Mr. Rowlands says prior to -that period the Welsh historians must determine. I only hint this -because I found nothing in the structure of the building to corroborate -so remote an antiquity as the chief window to the east appears to be -about the time of Henry the seventh or eighth and on it is some painted -glass in the characters of that age (fol. 58_a_). A chapel attached to -the north side of the church was built anno sixteen hundred sixty six by -dame Owen as we learnt by the following inscription over the doorway. -This chapel was built by Anne Owen widdowe, daughter and inheretrix of -Richard Williams of Llasdûlas {34} Esqre according to the direction of -her deare husband Hugh Owen Esqre sixteen hundred sixty one. Under some -arms painted on the glass of the chapel was, appointed by her deare -husband Hugh Owen sonne and heir of Will Owen of Bodowen Esqre and -erected by his dear wife Anne. - -[Picture: No. 20. Doorway at Llancadwaladr Church with an Inscription to - the Memory of Hugh Owen, Esq.] - -Under a monument erected against the east wall of the church where a -knight in armour and a lady are kneeling before an altar are the -following curious lines containing more of loyalty than poesy (fol. 59)— - - To the memory of Hugh Owen Esqre of Bodowen who died the twenty first - of October sixteen hundred fifty nine. - - Religion, learning, friends, poor have lost - A noble patron who maintained them at his cost - His country’s patriot most firme to loyalty - And for being loyal suffer’d infinitely - With foes would not cologue nor his prince betray - But livde his faithful subject every day. - - This monument was made by Anne his beloved wife the daughter and - inheritrix of Richard Williams of Llasdûlas Esqre in memory of her - deare husband sixteen hundred sixty. - -Mr. Meyricke the owner of Bodowen is first repairing his family chapel on -the opposite side. The original edifice as appears by a stone lying in -the church was built by Richard Meyricke Esqre anno sixteen hundred forty -(fol. 59_a_) and the vault underneath by his great grandson Owen Meyricke -Esqre seventeen hundred thirty. The evening was closing in fast before -we had finished our observations at Llancadwaladr. - -A dreary walk of two miles over the sands to Aberffraw was rendered still -more disagreeable by an incessant and heavy rain and we had no small -degree of anxiety the whole of our walk lest we should be still more -unfortunate in not gaining admittance at the public house as we -understood that a number of Westleans with Mr. Charles at their head were -to have a meeting the following day in the village. However on our -arrival at the house we found a good welcome and much better quarters -than we had reason to expect. After a comfortable supper of boiled -rabbit we retired to rest. - - - -(fol. 61) SUNDAY, DECR. 5 - - - [Picture: No. 22. Cromlech at Henblas] - - [Picture: No. 23. Cerigainwyn Church] - -This morning after breakfast the weather being tolerably fair we walked -to Henblâs in the parish of Llangristiolus in expectation of seeing a -cromlech mentioned in our list. In our way thither we skirted a lake -{36a} about two miles in circumference and noticed large flocks of wild -ducks and other acquatic birds near the shore but on our approach they -swam immediately to the middle of the water. About a mile and a half -beyond we passed a large house called Trefyla {36b} belonging to Mr. -Evans and at Henblâs another the property of his sister but at present -only tenanted by a gardener who accompanied us over the fields to the -object we came in search of. We here found three immense stones two of -them above fifteen feet high and nearly the same in width standing -upright in the ground, another of a (fol. 61_a_) flatter form leant -against them. I cannot imagine there is anything artificial in the -arrangements of these ponderous bodies but that their position is the one -they were placed in by the hand of nature. Whether they ever were or -were not employed by the Druids I do not pretend to determine. And here -we may observe the word cromlech is applied by the Welsh indiscriminately -to stones either natural or artificial if they are only found inclining -in such a direction that there is a hollow underneath. The largest stone -in the pass of Llanberis which not many years ago rolled from the heights -above obtains the name of cromlech vawr and the same may be observed in -many other instances. On returning from this spot the gardener who -seemed to be an intelligent man pointed to a rising ground to the -southward about two miles off which he said was called (fol. 62) Ester -{37} mon eglwr where are still to be traced the foundations of an ancient -fortress and tradition says a lofty watch tower once stood on this -eminence commanding the circumference of the Island. From hence a -causeway ran across the low ground towards a large carnedd wherein were -discovered many human bones. Not far from hence he himself picked up a -piece of silver coin which he had given to a lady in the neighbourhood. -As we had received intelligence of some old characters cut in the wall of -Cerigainwyn {38} Church we walked thither and were glad to find something -better worthy of notice than the cromlech we had quitted for here are -still visible some large Saxon characters cut very deep in the stone of -the clochti or belfry. In order to transcribe them more perfectly I -procured a ladder and mounted aloft but this (fol. 62_a_) enterprize was -attended with no small difficulty for being obliged to employ both hands -while sketching and the ladder lying very slanting I could only depend -upon the toes of my boots for support against the wall. Whilst thus -situated there came on a violent storm of sleet and hail which so -benumbed my hands I hurried the business more than I otherwise should -have done but still I think I have the drawing pretty exact. These rude -Saxon characters appear to be coeval with the building and probably were -designed to perpetuate the name of its founder and the date of the -foundation but when the original edifice grew to decay they were taken -out of their original order and placed just as they happened to come into -use in the building the clochti so that many of the letters are lost or -inverted. I think I am authorized to make this conjecture by the (fol. -69) present appearance of the U and the S which are evidently reversed. -Other letters are also wanting to make good the inscription. The font -within the church is without doubt equally ancient as it retains the -Runic lines and ornaments which were used among the northern nations of -the sixth and seventh century. Of this I made three drawings. The clerk -a surly Jewish looking fellow seemed at first inclined to be very -impudent, but I did not neglect to fee him for the same reason the Angel -did the Miser in Parnell’s beautiful poem of the Hermit namely to make -him more civil and attentive to other travellers should curiosity ever -lead them to this spot. The clouds now gathering round us and everything -seeming to portend bad weather we made the best of our way to Aberffraw -having altogether walked twelve miles. - - [Picture: No. 24. Clochty at Caregainwin Church] - - [Picture: No. 25. South Side of the Clocty at Caregainwen Church] - - [Picture: No. 26. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church] - - [Picture: No. 27. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church] - - [Picture: No. 28. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church] - - - -(fol. 69_a_) MONDAY, DECR. 6 - - - [Picture: No. 29. [Arch in Aberffraw Church.]] - -We found there was so much to be seen in the neighbourhood of Aberffraw -that we determined on prolonging our stay for another day at our present -station. About nine attended by the same person who went with us -yesterday we walked to the parish church which outwardly resembles other -Welsh buildings of the kind but on entering we observed a neat turned -Saxon arch to the west end underneath the clochti an evident token that -this part of the building was of a more ancient date and most likely -erected during the times the Saxons held the Island which was for above a -century. Aberffraw afterwards became the residence of the North Welsh -princes and we may suppose it was a place of the greatest consequence in -the Island though now it scarcely deserves the title of a village. - - [Picture: No. 31. Interior of Llangwyfan Church] - -(fol. 73) Not far from the church they point out a field where the -palace of Llewelyn stood but no traces remain the ground having been -cleared quite to the foundation. Proceeding in a northwesterly direction -for a mile and a half we came to the little church of Llangwyfan. This -is erected on a rocky peninsula jutting out into the sea and is an Island -at high water so that not unfrequently the congregation are interrupted -in their devotion by the rapid approach of the waves. From its exposed -situation to the weather and from the spray of the sea beating against -its walls the stones in parts are fretted like a honeycomb which gives it -a most venerable appearance though from the shape of the windows at the -east end I should not suppose it was above four centuries standing. -Whilst I was sketching the font and part of the interior Russell copied a -curious (fol. 73_a_) epitaph to the memory of Mr. Woode written about the -year sixteen hundred two an age remarkable for its false wit and punning -indeed must have been very prevalent to have found its way to so remote a -quarter as this. Inscribed on a brass plate let into a stone slab is the -following epitaph: - - Felix ter felix marmor quia nobile lignum - Quo caret infelix insula marmor habes - Owen et patriae vivens fuit utile lignum - Et lignum vitae post sua fata Deo - Filius ista meo posui monumenta parenti - Sic precor et tecum nomen [et] Owen idem - In obitum Oweni Woode armigeri qui - Obiit 6 die April A° Dni 1602 Ætat 70. - - [Picture: No. 32] - -(fol. 76) In our way back we collected some beautiful specimens of sea -weed and a few shells and passing by a large mansion {44a} house the -former habitation of this Mr. Woode but now rented of Mr. Meyricke by a -farmer we walked a mile farther to Mynnedd {44b} Cnwc having understood -there was a cromlech to be seen there. - - [Picture: No. 33. Remains of a Carnedd at Mynydd-y-Cnwc] - -Mŷnnedd Cnwc is a promontory running two or three hundred yards into the -sea and forming the northern boundary of a small bay called Port Tre -Castel to the south of which on a semicircular rock about fifty yards -over jutting into the bay we observed a deep trench and mound cut towards -the land side and a square earth work of smaller dimensions a little -beyond this doubtless was the work of invaders on their first landing. -Instead of a cromlech at Mŷnnedd Cnwc we found the vestiges of a large -carnedd many of the flat stones of the cist faen or chamber are still -remaining but the small ones have been almost all removed to build a wall -close at hand. (fol. 77_a_) On another fork of the peninsula about an -hundred yards distant we observed the traces of another carnedd of much -smaller dimensions. From the nature of their situation, the bay, the -earth work &c. it is not improbable to suppose that an engagement here -took place with the natives wherein some principal officers were slain -and interred on the spot. A natural cavern in the rock penetrates for -some distance in the peninsula but it being high tide we could not -satisfy our curiosity in examining it. The country people have a strange -idea of spirits haunting these carnedds and frequently see lights (Ignis -fatuus) hovering round the point. They moreover report that an iron boot -was dug up not long ago full of money but on further enquiry the money -vanished and so did the boot too. By the description of a man who had -seen it I believe it was no other than a gambado belonging to Mr. Woode -or some of his descendants. - - [Picture: No. 34. Caer Cromlech in the Parish of Llanfaelog] - -(fol. 80) Hence continuing our walk to the northward we passed through -the parish of Llanfaelog and about half a mile beyond the church came to -a very perfect cromlech. {46} The cap stone is rather of an oblong shape -and measured sixteen feet long, six wide, and three thick. It only -rested upon three supporters each about three feet high although there -were four placed in the ground. Near the cromlech were lying two large -stones, the one seventeen feet long and three thick. Having made two -drawings on the spot we were invited by a country woman to take some -refreshment at her house, and whilst she went forward to prepare for our -reception we walked about half a mile further towards the river Crighill -{47a} to see another cromlech. {47b} This stood on low ground quite in a -swamp the cap stone like that at Maen Llhwyd has been thrown down and its -supporters lie near it. Also many other stones from three to five feet -long to the number of thirty lie (fol. 80_a_) scattered in all directions -around it. Having hastily sketched this remain we followed the direction -of a person who persuaded us there were some very ancient letters on a -stone placed in a wall about an hundred yards distant. Above a quarter -of an hour was employed to no purpose in the search. At length assisted -by some men who came from a neighbouring field whose zeal in the business -was augmented by the promise of a shilling we discovered the valuable -antique which had been employed as a land mark and traced the letters o. -w. one thousand six hundred and sixty four very legibly on the surface. - - [Picture: No. 36. Demolished Cromlech near the River Crighyll] - -How many hundreds would have laughed at the distress of the young -antiquarians on this occasion but as the more learned of that venerable -society are continually exposed to similar or greater mistakes we must -find shelter from the shafts of ridicule under the shade of (fol. 82) -their protecting wings. At the farm house we found some white bread and -cheese and butter milk placed on a clean cloth waiting our arrival and -returning many thanks to our kind entertainer who was as pretty as she -was obliging we took our leave and proceeded towards a barn in the -neighbourhood where with the assistance of a lanthorn I traced the -characters NALIS deeply cut in a stone now serving as the lintern to a -small window but said to have been taken from a field near the spot. I -think these characters are Roman as the style of the L cut obliquely much -resembles what I have noticed on some inscriptions in the north of -England made a short time before the Romans quitted the island. Returned -to Aberffraw across a large warren apparently well stocked with rabbits. -They are sold in these parts for fourpence apiece, fowls are also equally -cheap, so that with the assistance of fish the inhabitants can fare very -luxuriantly without butcher’s meat. A farmer overtook (fol. 82_a_) and -accompanied us to Aberffraw. In the course of conversation he said it -was this day seventeen years being the Carnarvon fair on which the -passage boat was lost and eighty people perished in the Menai most of -whom were inhabitants of the island by which sad catastrophy nearly every -family had to lament the loss of some relative. - -In the evening we received a visit from Mr. Rowlands curate of Aberffraw, -on enquiring of him what was become of the various coins which had been -dug up in these parts of the island he said that most of them had been -taken to Mr. Meyricke who he was sure would be very happy in shewing them -to us, but we were so apprehensive of being detained by the weather at -this time of the year that we could not venture to spend the following -day at Aberffraw though the civility and attention we experienced from -our hostess would have been a strong inducement at a more favourable -season. - - - -(fol. 83) TUESDAY, DECR. 7 - - -Having paid a very reasonable bill at Aberffraw we quitted it this -morning about ten and pursued the same track we had done yesterday for -about three miles when crossing the Crighyll and traversing a bleak heath -rendered still more unpleasant by heavy storms of wind and rain we -arrived at Llanfihangle yn nhewlyn {49} expecting to find some ancient -remains in this parish. We only saw some large loose stones upon the -summit of the rocks which seem to have little claim to the interference -of the Druids to place them in their present position. On enquiring at a -cottage near this spot whether there were any carnedds or chromlechs to -be seen we exposed ourselves to the ridicule of two old women who enjoyed -a hearty laugh at our walking in the rain to hunt after stones. - - [Picture: No. 37. Praesaddfed Cromleche] - - [Picture: No. 39. Praesaddfed Cromleche] - -Skirting two large pools of water we pursued our way to Bodedern situated -on the turnpike road about eight miles from Holyhead. This place did not -prepossess us much in its favour as it seemed to promise but sorry -accommodations (fol. 83_a_). However we were obliged to put up with them -unless we made up our minds to reach Holyhead which would have thrown us -nearly a day backward in our march. Having ordered the best the house -could afford for dinner we walked nearly a mile along the turnpike road -in the direction of Gwindy {50a} when turning off into a field to the -left we approached one of the finest and most finished cromlechs {50b} we -have yet seen in the island the cap stone measuring four yards and a half -long four yards wide and two yards thick {50c} its three supporters each -about a yard and a half high. Indeed there is a fourth nearly of the -same height but it does not touch the stone above. Under this cromlech -we were informed a whole family who had been ejected from their -habitation sought shelter during the last winter. There was another -cromlech close at hand but the cap stone had been forced down and rests -in a slanting direction against the supporters the top stone of this -measured three yards long and two yards and (fol. 87) a half wide and its -supporters nearly two yards high. An old mansion near the spot was we -understand the residence of Miss Buckley the lady who married King master -of the ceremonies at Bath. The premises seem to be very much out of -repair having been untenanted for some time. Returned about four to our -homely dinner of bacon and greens. In the evening after retracing my -sketches I took a copy of a plan that was in the room of the intended -bridge over the Menai. This if it ever is put into execution will be a -stupendous work as it will be nearly half a mile long and built pretty -strong to resist the tides. On the twenty-ninth of April 1785 a meeting -was first held for the purpose of consulting about it at St. Alban’s -tavern when the following resolutions passed: first, that the erecting a -carriage bridge over the streights of the Menai will be of great public -utility—second—that it appears from the reports and concurrent opinions -of several able engineers that the erecting a timber bridge upon piles -with three swivel bridges will not be detrimental (fol. 87_a_) to the -navigation of the said streights and therefore we approve of a bridge -being erected on that plan, third, that we will support the application -made to parliament for an act for building a bridge across the said -streights agreeable to the above plan. N. Bailey, chairman. Afterwards -follow the signature of the noblemen and gentlemen. Here we see the -first intention was to have constructed one of wood with three swivel -bridges for the convenience of vessels passing to and fro. Now according -to the present plan it is to be of stone with three center arches -sufficiently wide and high to permit a ship to pass with all her sails -set. God knows whether this plan will ever be brought to perfection but -in this mechanical age we can scarcely wonder at the projection of any -enterprize however vast or difficult. If we were not pleased with our -fare much less were we with our sleeping apartments at this place the -upper story was (fol. 89) without ceilings running clear up to the roof -being divided into stalls rather than chambers by deal boards wherein are -placed the different beds for the family and strangers. We slept in -separate beds it is true, but every word that was said, nor ought that -was done could pass unheard for all was as manifest to the ear at least -as though we had been in the same dormontory. I was unfortunately -situated, in having some snorers close to my bed head, and the deal not -being above half an inch thick I may literally say they were close at my -ear. Different kinds of music resounded from different parts of the -room. I bore all this harmonious combination of sounds with the -philosophy of a stoic till the clock struck three, when my next neighbour -played so violently on the double bass I lost all patience and began -knocking with equal violence on the partition between us. This not only -awoke him but every part of the house was soon in motion and the host got -up grumbling and swearing and called the people about him to go and (fol. -89_a_) see who it was who knocked at the door for they imagined it was -some traveller who wished to gain admittance. In the course of an hour -when the tumult was subsided I dropped asleep and was roused by our guide -whom I had ordered to call me at half past six. - - - -WEDNESDAY, DECR. 8 - - -We were not sorry to leave this place as soon as it was light paying much -higher for our miserable entertainment than we had done at any place in -the island. First directed our steps along the turnpike to Llandrûgan, -{53} situated near Gwindy the halfway house between Beaumaris and -Holyhead our host having given us to understand there was a very ancient -stone near the church which many travellers went to look at but few could -read the inscription. He himself among the rest although he said he was -a good schollar having been clerk of Bodedern many years could (fol. 90) -make nothing of it. On arriving at the spot we found a flat tomb stone -to the right of the entrance door bearing the following lines legibly cut -on its surface: - - Reader in me doe thou thyself behold - Wilome full hie but now full low in mould - Bodychens heyr I was my name was John - The second who that sirname fixt upon - Credit nor wealth nor friends I did not lacke - Heare dead and dust loe all doe me forsake - The day draws on when God me hence shall raise - Amongst his chosen his great name to praise. - -On the side nearest the church door: - - Obiit apud Bodechen decimo die Junii incarnationis milessimo sexto - centessimo tricessimo nono aetatis suae septuagesimo. - -On the opposite side: - - Moestissima uxor Margaretta monumentum hoc delectessimo conjugi piae - memoriae amoris ergo posuit vicessimo die Martii anno milessimo - sexgentessimo quadragessimo. - -Though we copied the inscription being on the spot we did not think it -deserving a digression of three miles to read especially as we had so -much to perform before night. - - [Picture: No. 41. Stone in Llantrisant Parish] - -Hence we hastened forward to Llantrisant not without some apprehension in -being equally deceived in an ancient inscription we learnt was to be seen -there cut on the stone {54} of a gateway. On enquiring at a farm house -we found it had been taken up from the gate and placed in a kind of shed -as a block to chop sticks on. This intelligence conveyed through our -interpreter did not quiet our fears for the fate of the inscription, -however towards the place we went and fortunately found the stone lying -with the inscription downwards (fol. 92). On the edge was engraved Aroe -lapidibus in the manner I have shewn in my sketch. Having with the -assistance of four stout fellows turned the stone I traced as nearly as I -could the characters as they appear in my drawing. The stone was of a -lozenge form about six feet high and three wide, and I conjecture was -first of all employed by the Romans as a direction across the country, as -the words Aroe lapidibus to the stones of Aroe seem to imply. The second -inscription was probably cut some centuries after in monkish times as -appears by the words moribus disciplinae et sapientiae coming together in -the conclusion of the sentence. Indeed many of the upright pillars we -have met with in the island I imagine were intended as directions or -boundaries and not at all connected with druidical worship as Mr. -Rowlands seems to suppose. The day by this time being far advanced we -exerted ourselves as much as the country would (fol. 92_a_) allow to gain -Llanbabo church four miles distant in sufficient time to copy an ancient -stone dug up here in the reign of Charles the second bearing the effigies -of Pabo post Prid or Prince Pabo the support of Britain who flourished -about the year four hundred sixty and who is said to have built and to -have been buried in this church. His effigies are designed on a flat -stone resembling free stone, the figure crowned with a sceptre in its -right hand and a close garment down to its feet. On the edge of the -stone these characters are cut hic jacet Pabo post Prid the remainder is -very much defaced but I should read it qui edificavit hanc ecclesiam. - -For my own part I cannot but think that the whole of this is some ages -later than Pabo’s time as both the sculpture and the formation of the -letters are those of the thirteenth or fourteenth century. We know that -in Roman catholic countries it is very common for the priests to preserve -(fol. 95) the effigies of their founders and benefactors in their -churches and monasteries and might not this have been presented to the -church by some rich family in the neighbourhood by way of acquiring the -favour of the sainted patron. The letters here noticed very much -resemble those I have copied from the monument in Bettws y Coed church in -Carnarvonshire. I took as perfect a drawing as my time would allow and -afterwards just sketched the entrance door and three uncooth and at -present whitewashed visages let into the stone above and on each side of -it. These are of such rude workmanship that I should rather attribute -them to the time of Pabo than the subject we have just considered. A -kind of waving line over the arch of the door as described in my sketch -is I conjecture no less antique. The church itself differs in no other -respect from the generality of Welsh buildings, and the parish is so -scattered that not above two houses are to be seen in any direction. - - [Picture: No. 45. Stones in Llanfechell Parish] - -From hence to Llanfechell we experienced a dirty swampy and fatiguing -walk (fol. 95_a_) of four miles and the termination of it was rendered -still more unfortunate as we found the public house so indifferent we -could not think of spending the night there accordingly we hastened by -the light of the moon to examine some stones and a cromlech about half a -mile beyond leaving our interpreter who seemed to be pretty well tired of -antique hunting to eat his dinner, in the interim the host of the public -house officiating in his stead. Under his guidance we first visited -three upright stones standing on a rising ground placed three paces -asunder forming an exact triangle. They were about seven feet high and -two feet and a half wide. These I make no doubt were intended as a -direction to travellers as they might be seen from every rising hillock -in the neighbourhood and also from the coast, we could not learn that -they were called by any particular name if it had sounded anything like -aroe it would have thrown some light upon the inscription in Llantrisant -parish. - -From hence passing by an old (fol. 98) mansion named cromlech now -tenanted by a farmer we came to the spot where many large stones were -lying scattered promiscuously on the ground and one nearly square -measuring nine feet across leaning against some uprights about six feet -high. From the appearance of this place I should rather imagine that it -had been the interior or cistfaen of a carnedd and this opinion seems -somewhat confirmed by the accounts of the common people who remember -great quantities of stone having been removed to form a wall. Returning -to the public house we made a meal on bread and cheese and afterwards -procuring the key of the church we examined its interior. The font is -square having a double Saxon arch rudely carved on each face. Over the -communion table is a Latin inscription to Mr. Humphreys Rector of the -parish which we transcribed: - - Cineribus sacrum - H. S. E. - (fol. 98_a_) ROBERTUS HUMPHREYS M.A. - vir eruditus perquam et modestus - Rei medicae - praesertim botanicae apprime gnarus - Praxique claruit - hujus ecclesiae per tria et amplius lustra - Extitit Rector - obiit XIII id Junii anno MDCCIX - Ætatis suae LVIII - - Dnus dnus Ricardus Nicom. Bulkeley pro digno qui haberet defuncto - hoc positum voluit - - [Picture: Llanfechell Church; Font, Llanfechell Church] - -A long five miles walk brought us to Amlwch where with some little -difficulty (the hostess not admiring our pedestrian appearance) we gained -admittance, a good supper and comfortable sleeping appartments which -indeed were not a little refreshing after (fol. 101) the labours of the -day and the adventures of the preceeding night. - - - -THURSDAY, DECR. 9 - - -Amlwch is a long straggling place and may contain from four to five -thousand inhabitants though before the working of the Parys mines there -were not an hundred tenements in the parish. Besides two or three good -houses a church has been lately erected by the copper company on a neat -substantial plan and a quay formed near the smelting houses where ships -of two or three hundred tons burthen may take in their lading. These we -passed in our way to Llanelian church this morning which we had been -directed to examine as one of the most curious structures in the island. -This church differs from most others in North Wales in having a kind of -spire rising from a square tower. I cannot say that this edition is very -elegant it being coated all the way up with small slate. The body of the -church is ornamented with battlements, pinnacles, and (fol. 101_a_) -buttresses in the style of our parish churches built about the time of -Henry the seventh. Having procured the key we found the interior still -retaining its catholic collection of saints and apostles, and the seats, -chancel, and communion-table, were decorated with a profusion of carving -in oak. On the latter on a kind of scroll we read non nobis Domine non -nobis sed nomine tuo. Beneath the arches which supported the roof of the -building were six grotesque little figures, playing on the bagpipe, -pibcorn, and other instruments, their appearance is rendered still more -ridiculous by their being painted in black coats, yellow waistcoats, and -white wigs. In a small chapel attached to the south east end of the -church (which is said to have been the original edifice founded by Saint -Elian) there is a kind of semicircular chest or cabinet made of oak into -which whoever can enter and turn himself round is sure in the opinion of -the vulgar to live out the year but if he fails it will (fol. 102) prove -fatal to him. People from all parts come at stated periods to try their -destiny in this absurd way. There is also an old chest well secured by -bolts bars and nails in another part of the church having a small slit in -the lid through which the country people are said to drop a piece of -money uttering their maledictions against their enemies the black -gentleman is thus feed to work evil against the offender, this -uncharitable and unchristian custom if true seems almost too bad even for -monkish times much worse to be continued now. Having viewed these relics -of superstition we ascended by a circular tower to the roof [of] the -church which is very nicely leaded. On enquiring afterwards of a Welsh -clergyman why Llanelian was so much better taken care of than other -parish churches I found that some lands had been appropriated by one of -the Welsh princes centuries ago by way of expiation for his sins to keep -it in constant repair, this accounts for its having a steeple, being -leaded, &c. &c. - - [Picture: No. 46. Llanelian Church] - -After sketching the building we returned (fol. 102_a_) to Amlwch, on our -way thither obtained a very clear view of the Isle of Man lying only -sixteen leagues to the north of this coast. Could we have insured a -week’s fine weather we should not have hesitated an instant including -that island in our circuit as I have long wished to satisfy myself -respecting some ancient inscriptions at Pielstown. I understand there is -almost daily communication through the herring boats which come here to -dispose of their cargoes. Having taken a slight repast at Amlwch we -proceeded to the Parys mountain which of late years has enriched not only -many individuals but the nation at large. It lies about a mile south of -the town and though denominated a mountain, in Carnarvonshire at least -would be deemed a very inconsiderable hillock. The approach to it is -dreary in the extreme for the sulphurious steams issuing from the copper -kilns have destroyed every germ of vegetation in the neighbourhood. When -we had gained (fol. 103) the higher ground the uninteresting and gloomy -prospect we had hitherto observed was at once converted into the most -lively and active scene. Hundreds of men, women, and children, appeared -busily occupied in the different branches of this vast concern and the -bustle of the metropolis prevailed amidst the dreary recesses of the -Druids. The produce of the mountain belongs to two different companies -one called the Parys Mine shared between Lord Uxbridge, Mr. Hughes, and -Mr. Williams. The other, the Mona mine I believe is Lord Uxbridge’s -alone. - -Our servant having delivered a message from the people of the inn to one -of the overseers of the Parys mine, he accompanied us over the works. A -stranger not acquainted with mining concerns cannot do better than take -his first lesson at this place. There being no necessity of descending -into subterrianean abodes to grope out for information by candle light, -incommoded by damp, dirt, and foul vapours, for all is here worked open -to the day and by taking his station in one (fol. 103_a_) point he can -command a view of the whole proceedings from the beginning to the end and -receive every satisfactory explanation almost without moving from the -spot. We first were conducted to some wooden stages erected on the edge -of the bason if I may so employ that term to an immense excavation of an -oval form about two hundred yards long, half so much in width and eighty -in depth which has been hollowed out in the course of twenty years, these -wooden stages are each supplied with a windlass for the purpose of -drawing up the ore from the bottom. On looking down from hence to the -chasm beneath, we saw the rock rich with ore of a light gold colour which -the miners were busily employed in boring, blasting, breaking with sledge -hammers, wheeling the fragments to appointed places beneath the stages -filling the baskets which were hauled up as before mentioned by the -windlass. There might be from twelve to fourteen stages erected for this -purpose in different (fol. 104) parts of the mine. - -As soon as the commodity is landed it is delivered to a number of women -and children to be broken into smaller pieces. The good ore is then -separated from that of an inferior sort and carried to kilns to be baked. -The sulphur forms in what is called flour brimstone by the chymists on -the top of the oven. This is afterwards collected, melted in large -cauldrons and formed into round moulds for sale. - -We understood that the better kind of ore was sent to Neath and other -places, and the inferior to the smelting houses at Amlwch. In walking -round the premises we crossed a small stream running into some square -reservoirs, this water was so impregnated with copper that merely the -dipping a key in for two or three seconds rendered it entirely the colour -of that metal. The square reservoirs above mentioned was stored with all -the old iron that could be collected which are turned monthly the coperas -on them sinking in a kind (fol. 104_a_) of red slime to the bottom. - -At stated times the pits are emptied and the produce when hardened -becomes equally valuable to the richest ore in the mines. We may be sure -that every drop of this precious stream is turned to the best account -possible indeed so productive is it that they compute it to be worth -above three halfpence a quart. On entering the compting house one of the -clerks sitting there obligingly gratified us with the sight of a number -of drawers full of the most beautiful specimens of minerals I ever saw -and moreover requested us to take our choice of what we most admired. We -were constrained to be very moderate on account of the weight of the -article but if we could have procured a ready carriage I fancy we should -have been rather more greedy in our selection. At it was we took nearly -five pounds’ weight of the following minerals and mixtures (fol. 105): - - First. Mundig containing sulphur and iron. - - 2. Iron incrusted with lead chrystals. - - 3. Copper ore. - - 4. Copper ore after roasting. - - 5. Copper taken from the reservoir of old iron. - - 6. Quartz containing copper ore. - - 7. Zink commonly called black Jack incorporated with copper rock - holding a small quantity of lead. - - 8. Quartz with a little of the Zink and chrystals. - - 9. Pure copper. - - 10. Blue stone issuing from the copper rocks. - - 11. Sulphur. - - 12. Copper coming from the old iron after it is dried. - -Hence we just looked into the assay house but could not see the process -the man having concluded work we also viewed the kilns and the coppers -where the sulphur is melted. Having taken a very competent survey and -complimented our obliging and intelligent conductor for his trouble in -the best manner we were able, we took a long walk for nearly five miles -to the west of Parys mountain towards Llanfechell where we heard there -was (fol. 105_a_) a prodigious large stone with writing under it to be -seen. Our conductor who was a young man of Amlwch speaking pretty good -English entertained us the whole way by a variety of ghost stories and -preternatural events the common talk of the neighbourhood. The stone we -were going to see was so big that it would sink the largest ship that -came to Amlwch. That it stood in a valley by itself resting on a flat -stone whereon a good many characters were engraved but nobody was able to -make them out but should some learned person have that good fortune the -stone would immediately move off of itself and there would be a pot of -gold to reward him for his schollarship. That a countryman living hard -by had seen the treasure three following nights in his dreams and had -spent some time in digging for it but all to no purpose for it was not -intended for him. On telling our guide he should equally (fol. 107) -share whatever we discovered it quickened our march astonishingly and I -really believe we were not above an hour in reaching the stone -notwithstanding the many impediments which crossed our way. On which we -passed an upright stone about seven feet high in the middle of a field -resembling some of those we before noticed as boundaries. Here exclaimed -Sancho a man also found a considerable treasure, although amused by his -simplicity it in some measure weakened the interest we had taken in the -object of our walk and we felt the less disappointed at finding we had -taken our ramble in vain when we arrived at the spot. For a candle being -procured at the treasure dreamer’s cottage we discovered that what they -took for letters were nothing but a few natural crevices in the rock and -that the stone itself though of some magnitude possessed no more claim to -notice than any other detached fragment lying by the road side. (fol. -107_a_) However disappointed we concealed our chagrin and even suffered -our conductor to take us half a mile out of the way to see an immense -stone which he said was called Praes Maen on account of a brass pot being -placed near it and that when the sun shone whoever could trace the shadow -at a particular time of the day would discover a great treasure in a -brass vessel. It was moonlight when we arrived at this stone which -certainly is more worthy of notice than the one we had quitted. It is -standing upright in the midst of a field and measures thirteen feet high -and fourteen and fifteen in circumference allowing four or five feet -under ground, it must have been a very heavy body and cost some trouble -to have erected it in its present position. Approaching nearer to Amlwch -we observed our quondam loquacious compation become very silent, and just -as we had passed an old wall about half a mile (fol. 108) from the town -he told us with evident marks of trepidation that there was a ghost -sitting there every night, on asking him if he had ever seen it he said -no but that many of his friends had, it was in the shape of a woman and -once had attempted to pull a farmer’s wife off her horse but was -prevented by the arrival of a second person when it vanished. That on -Christmas Eve the inhabitants of Amlwch used to come to the spot in order -to see how many lights would pass by and as many did so many persons as -travelled that road would die within the twelvemonth. - - [Picture: No. 48. Ffedoged-y-Gowres] - -I just mention these ridiculous stories to show that superstition still -reigns here and this superstition has perhaps been the guardian to many -of the druidical remains we noticed in the island. It was past six when -we returned to the inn where we were welcomed by a most excellent repast. - - - -FRIDAY, DECR. 10 - - -We could not leave the inn so soon as we intended on account (fol. -108_a_) of our boots not being ready so bad is the workmanship of the -shoemakers in Wales that the repairs of one day were destroyed by the -exertions of the next, and it was a business almost as regular as eating -our dinner when we arrived at the inn to send our boots to get mended. -Here I hope we have had them secured effectually as we ordered them to be -studded with nails according to the fashion of the country. Although on -our arrival we scarcely gained admittance at the inn as pedestrians yet -on our departure we had to pay the bill calculated for equestrians of the -first order so much had our consequence been raised by the loquacity of -our attendant in the kitchen. - -This heavy blow on our finances with the loss we had sustained at -Llanfechell caused a calculation to be made which promised only three -days’ supply supposing our concerns should fall into the hands of so -experienced a scribe as the landlady at Amlwch (fol. 109). About eleven -we were clear of the inn and took the road across the fields to the small -church of Bodewryd where we understood were some remains of the Wynne -family a branch of which family was settled at a large mansion now a farm -near the spot. The church door being open we found the interior occupied -by a grey headed pedagogue and his schollars. On the pulpit were carved -the arms of the Wynne’s and the seats and communion table exhibited the -same kind of ornaments cut in oak before noticed at Llanelian. This -living was augmented by Queen Anne’s bounty and further donations as -appears engraven on a brass tablet affixed to the north side of the -altar: - - M. S. - Annae Reginae serenissimae - cujus munificentia sine exemplo maximae - inter innumeras alias per magnam - (fol. 109_a_) Britanniam late sparsas - Tenuissima haec de Bodewryd ecclesia - cujus stipendium annuum xx solidos ante non exedebat - libris ducentis donata est - promovente interim pietatem hanc - et totidem libras de proprio conferente - per ultimum testamentum suum - Dat. 6to Septembris A.D. 1720 - Roberto Wynne A.M. rectori de Llantrisant - Filio Johannis Wynne de Bodewryd Arm. - - Sexto et natu maximo - quibus pecuniis aliquantulum auctis - Tenementa sequentia coempta - et in usum ecclesiae prædictae - In perpetuum stabilita sunt - (fol. 110) IIIº Nonas Decembris 1723 - viz. Tre Evan, Clidog, Hen Aclwyd &c. &c. - Reditusque annuus 40 solidorum - De Tre Anghared in Bodedern - Com. Anglesea. - - In tantae munificentiae memoriam - Tabula haec votiva suspensa est. anno 1727. - -On the opposite side of the communion table on a similar tablet is -engraved the pedigree of this branch of the Wynne’s which is as follows: - - In hac Ecclesia jacent - - 1. Rees (ap Llewellwyn, ap Griffith, ap Howell, ap Evan, ap Ednyfed - ap Howell, ap Griffith, ap Meyricke, ap Trahairn, ap Gwerydd ap Rees - Goch) uxorem habuit Agnes vch Nicholas ap Ellis Archidiaconi Monensis - filiam obiit anno Dni 1500. - - (fol. 110_a_) - - 2. David ap Rees de Bodewryd Armiger obiit 27º Julii anno Dni 1551 - uxorem habuit Anghared filiam et heredem de Plâs y Brian in parochia - de Llanbeder. - - 3. Hugo Gwyn ap D.D. obiit 1562 uxorem habuit Elenam Conway de Bryn - Eyrinin Com. Carnaru. - - 4. Edwardus ap H Gwyn sepultus fuit primo die Martii 1596 uxorem - duxit Elizabetham Sion ap Rees Bodychen. - - 5. Johannes Wyn Edd obiit 1614 uxorem habuit Grace vch Sion Griffith - de Llanddyfran. - - 6. Edwardus Wyn obiit 1637 uxorem habuit Margaretam Puleston de - Llwyn y Knottie in com. Flint. - - 7. Johannes Wyn obiit Jan. 30, 1669 uxorem duxit, Elenam filiam et - cohaeredem J. Lewis de Chwaen Wen arm sepultus est cum uxore filioque - natu maximo Johanne L L B in ecclesiae parochiali de Llantrissant de - quo siquis (fol. 111) ultra desideret monumentum patri suo B—M - positum impensis Roberto Wyn A.M. ejusdem ecclesiae Rectoris - dignissimi consulat. - -Having finished our observations and preparing to leave the church we -were not a little surprized by a request made by the schoolmaster for -something to drink our healths, though I complied with his request I at -the same time conveyed a kind of hint that an instructor should not be -mercinary. However he pocketed the reproof with the money and I cannot -say I discerned anything of that hectic flush come across his cheek -described by Sterne in his story of the poor Monk. - -Continuing from hence and passing by the magic stone which had drawn us -so much out of our way the preceeding night we called at the treasure -dreamer’s cottage as he had promised to shew us an inscription which -(fol. 111_a_) he knew to be worthy of notice as a clergyman of -Llanerchymedd had been to copy it. He was from home but his wife -catching up her half grown child in her arms walked before us at such a -rate we could scarcely keep up with her to the field where it stood. We -here found some characters and just as I was preparing to take the -impression of them with putty so violent and cold a storm of sleet and -rain came on that we were forced to take shelter at a neighbouring farm. -The farm house though of considerable extent was open all the way up to -the roof the beds, kitchen, dairy, &c. being all contiguous to each -other. This we found on enquiry was the common custom of the country. -The weather holding up a little we returned to the spot, in the interval -having learnt that the stone had some time since been broken in two in -order to make a gate post of the lower part, we procured an (fol. 113) -iron crow and with the assistance of two stout lads from the farm turned -it over, it measures about four feet in length but retains no appearance -of characters on its surface though by measuring its width we clearly -discovered that it must formerly have been united to the upper part which -is now fixed in the ground about an hundred yards distant. On returning -thither I took a very exact copy. The name of the stone is Maen Hîr -Llanol with is interpreted the large stone with letters and when entire -it must have been a conspicuous object from most parts of the island as -it stands on very high ground. - -The weather continuing cold and disagreeable we hastened our march to -Llanerchymedd our intended station for the night. Although the distance -to this place in a direct line is not above four miles and its situation -clearly discerned from Maen Hîr Llanol yet on account of the bogs and -(fol. 113_a_) overflowing of the river we were obliged to make a circuit -of nearly twice that space round by Llanbabo. In our way passed a farm -called Boddeiniol where we stopped to enquire for some druidical remains -mentioned in Mr. Bingley’s list as still visible, but the farmer who is -apparently near eighty years old said he had never had heard of anything -of the kind since he had lived there. But some time back in cleaning a -piece of rough ground in one of his fields he discovered four burying -places as he took them to be the sides formed of flat stones set upright -in the ground and covered by others of the same irregular shape. Some of -the stones he shewed us lying against a fence but none of them appeared -to be above two feet and a half high. Crossed the river Trepont {71} a -little below Llanbabo. This river is styled the largest in Anglesea -although I am sure one might easily leap over the widest part the channel -(fol. 114) when not flooded being not above twelve or fourteen feet -across. Arrived at Llanerchymedd a little before four, enquiring of the -innkeeper for an ancient stone with an inscription near the town he -accompanied us to the house of a clergyman who he said was very curious -in these particulars and would furnish us with every information on the -subject. Our reception was very pleasing but we had been misinformed in -regard to the object of our enquiries there being no other antiques in -the neighbourhood besides Maen Hîr Llanol and the stone at Llantrisant -about four miles distant. In the evening Mr. Richards the above -mentioned gentlemen called upon us at the inn and during our conversation -gave some interesting particulars of druidical remains in Bodafon -mountain which we purpose visiting in his company tomorrow. This -gentleman had a very perfect coin of Diocletian of which I took an -impression in sealing wax (fol. 114_a_) in order to make a fac simile of -the coin in isinglass on my return—if we cannot procure originals we must -be content with copies. Having noted down the occurrences of the day we -retired to bed desiring to be called very early in order to get breakfast -over by seven the time we had agreed to set out. - - [Picture: No. 49. Maen Hir Llanol] - - - -SATURDAY, DECR. 11 - - - [Picture: No. 50. [Thief Stone.]] - -A little before seven called at Mr. Richards’s house whom we found -waiting at the door ready to accompany us. He mounted his horse and we -pursued the Beaumaris turnpike for half {72a} a mile when we turned to -the left to look at a stone called Lleidr {72b} y Frydog or the thief -stone. This is a rough stone about six feet high having a kind of hump -or projection near the top. The country people report that a thief who -had stolen some books from a neighbouring church was in this place turned -into stone with the sack containing his theft laying over his shoulder. -About a quarter of a mile further Mr. Richards pointed to the spot where -formerly stood the nunnery of Clorach or St. Claire and not far from it -by the road side we saw two wells whose waters were enclosed in a square -reservoir of stone work. Tradition says that the two saints Seriol and -Cybi (the former having a cell at Priestholme the latter at Holyhead -where he founded a collegiate church) used to hold their weekly meetings -at these springs to consult on religious matters, and from the -circumstance of Seriol’s travelling westward in the morning and eastward -in the evening, and Cybi on the contrary always facing the sun they were -denominated - - Seriol wyn a Chyby felyn. - Seriol the fair and Cybi the tawney. - - [Picture: No. 50a. Cromlech on Bodafon Mountain] - - [Picture: No. 51. Bodafon Hills] - -When arrived at Bodafon hills a ridge of rocky ground (fol. 117_a_) -extending nearly two miles east and west Mr. Richards gave his horse to -our attendant and accompanied us to a cromlech lying at the side of the -hill denominated cromlech Lldercoch {73} nearly square the upper stone -being about eleven feet across supported by four or five small uprights -not above a foot and a half from the surface. This is by no means so -perfect as some we have before noticed. Had not Mr. Richards been -positive of the fact I should have doubted whether it had been designed -for one. Arrived nearly at the summit of the hill we entered a cottage -inhabited by a countryman whose grandfather and great grandfather resided -there before him. Under the direction of this person we climbed to the -top of the hill to look at a Carnedd. Most of the loose stones have been -removed but some of the flat ones which composed the cistfaen are still -on the spot, another more perfect lies about an hundred (fol. 118) yards -to the eastward of this, a third further beyond which we did not visit. -In the course of our walk the countryman pointed to a spot where he said -his grand-mother whilst tending the cattle found a large triangular {74} -piece of gold as he called it, standing on three supporters weighing -nearly forty pounds. The antique overgrown with heath but one of the -beasts happening to tread upon it occasioned the discovery. This she -sold for three shillings at Llanerchymedd. - - [Picture: No. 52. South of Bodafon Hill with a British Town] - -I should rather conceive that the metal was brass but whatever it was it -would have been of more considerable value in the eyes of the -antiquarian. Not far from this place he pointed to a number of loose -stones called by a Welsh word answering to gold tongues {75a} as many -pieces of gold of that shape he said were formerly picked up here. From -the formation here specified I think one may not hesitate a moment in -pronouncing they were brass celts or British weapons and as a farther -(fol. 118_a_) confirmation of this opinion not a great way distant facing -the south we traced the remains of a large British {75b} town. Here -about forty or fifty foundations such as we have before noticed at Tre -Evan may be clearly discerned some lying in a cluster together others -standing separate, others again having a square form the name given to -these remains scattered over the island we were informed by our -intelligent companion by Cyteau {76a} Gwydellhod not Irishmens huts as -some have translated it but the houses of the wild inhabitants. A spring -rising near the spot still has a term of the same signification being -stiled the well of the wild inhabitants. Some vestiges of similar {76b} -buildings are to be traced to the north side of the hill, as also on the -rising ground facing that part of Bodafon we have just noticed. It is -natural to suppose that when the island was covered with wood, the -inhabitants would fix their residence on elevated stations as a security -(fol. 120) against their enemies and beasts of prey we may suppose the -lower parts of these huts were alone built of stone and that branches of -trees and earth formed the covering like those at present used amongst -the lowest orders of Irish peasantry and why may not this people have -retained the mode observed by the ancient Britons from whence they derive -their origin. The highest point of Bodafon hills lies to the east -commanding almost the whole circuit of the island. Here a beacon used to -be lighted in case of invasion or to convey signals to the opposite coast -of Carnarvonshire although probably it is many years since anything of -the kind was used, yet the stones and the earth bear evident marks of the -fire. It blew so hard to-day that it was with difficulty we kept on our -legs on the high ground but on descending we were sheltered from the wind -and had a pleasant walk to Penhros Llûgwy church an ancient building -about half a mile to the south east of Bodafon hills. On a (fol. 120_a_) -rough flat stone in the church yard I traced the following inscription, -hic jacet Macuceceti. {77a} Mr. Rowlands, upon what authority I know -not, supposes this to have been an inscription on Mechell or Macutius -bishop of St. Maloes in Little Britain, who he says was buried here. We -also observed two or three flat grave {77b} stones of a rough gritty -substance about six feet long whereon was cut the figure of a cross in -the same manner as those I noticed last year at Furness abbey. But what -seemed most curious at first sight was an inscription marked on a flat -stone {78} lying on the ground whose characters I recognised to be -similar to what I had observed on the font at Bridekirk in Cumberland -mixed with Saxon letters of a much later date. On observing Mr. Richards -smile after I had finished my copy I requested he would candidly tell me -what the inscription meant and in what character (fol. 122) it was -written for I could make nothing out of it when he was kind enough to -relieve me from my perplexity by explaining that it had been executed -within these sixty years by a shepherds boy at the desire of a gentleman -who employed various alphabets to compose it. The words are Welsh to -this effect Yma hefyd mae Gorwedd Katherine Jones Ebrill 11 1744. ag. 70. -Here also lies without Catherine Jones April 11 1744 aged 70. This I -suppose was intended as a stumbling block for antiquarians the idea being -probably suggested by Mr. Rowland’s Macutius in the neighbourhood. Like -Doctor Johnson at the Hebrides I here had to regret the loss of my -walking stick for although I dispatched our attendant and clerk in quest -of it before we had proceeded an hundred yards from the place where I had -copied the inscription, it was vanished. I shrewdly suspect that the -clerk had taken a fancy to it as there was no other person in the church -yard excepting our own party. However as he supplied me with something -as a substitute it (fol. 122_a_) did not longer delay our march which -brought us in the course of half an hour to Llûgwy house an ancient -mansion now rented by a farmer under Lord Boston who goodnaturedly -invited us within doors and refreshed us with a good luncheon of bread -and cheese and some excellent ale. We then walked a short distance from -the house to a rising ground overgrown with timber trees and coppice wood -but still there was sufficient opening to enable us to trace a number of -the Cytiau Gwyddellhod of a more perfect form and larger dimensions than -any we had yet seen. They appear to be surrounded by a breast work of -massive stones stuck edgeways in the ground evidently intended as a -fortification which was probably strengthened by a mound and sharp -stakes. The habitations here are very contiguous the entrances easily -traced as also a communication {79} from one to the other. This is a -strong confirmation of the historical account of the Aborigines who are -said in the different tribes to have had every (fol. 126) thing in -common. - - [Picture: No. 53. Stones in Penhros Llûgwy Churchyard] - - [Picture: No. 54. Cromlech Llwgwy, North-East Side] - -We purpose before we leave Wales visiting a very extensive fortress on -the top of Penmaenmawr which Mr. Richards says resembles very much the -one before us. Not far distant facing the ocean is a cromlech the upper -stone six yards long, five yards and a half wide and three yards {80a} -thick. One end rests upon a bank {80b} of earth and the other is -supported by four or five small upright stones, leaving a hollow beneath -about two feet high. - - [Picture: No. 55. Llûgwy Cromlech [and Caer Lligwy.]] - -Near this we noticed the remains of Llûgwy chapel now entirely -dilapidated. Walked hence to Llanalgo church said to have been built in -the year six hundred and five. On the north wall near the altar is a -mutilated monument {80c} of a knight in armour kneeling before an altar -said to be that of Sir John Bodville a gentleman whose residence was in -this parish. On digging a few years ago the foundation of the new -parsonage the workmen discovered a square vault formed of a solid -composition resembling thick (fol. 126_a_) tile supposed to be an ancient -burying place. Mr. Richards who was curate of this place for some years -says he has in his possession English coins of Edward {81} and Mary found -in digging in the church yard. Leaving the church we adjourned to a farm -house close by where the party was again supplied with bread cheese and -ale. Although I did not much admire this delay we were obliged to comply -with Mr. Richards’s request. Continued here nearly an hour during which -time a poor blind boy attempted to amuse us by playing on the harp but -having received but few instructions was but an indifferent performer, -our attendant then took the instrument and played some of the Welsh airs -with tolerable execution. The poor boy in the meantime exhibited such -strong marks of surprize mixed with mortification as would have supplied -an admirable subject for the pen of Hogarth. - - [Picture: No. 56. Cromlech Allcho] - -After having given something to him we were not a little glad to take our -leave it being (fol. 127) past two, and there was a doubt whether we -could procure accommodation for the night nearer than Beaumaris at least -twelve miles distant. Passed a stone about seven feet high nine long and -three thick this is placed edgeways on a flat rock, another about the -same shape and dimensions lies on the ground near at hand. A third -formerly placed across has been destroyed within the memory of some of -the inhabitants. These stones are called Cromlech but I should rather -imagine like those we noticed at Llanfechell that it had constituted the -chamber of a large Carnedd. Proceeding hence we walked over a natural -layer of lime stones extending for some acres along the surface of the -ground this is called Marian Glâs a term expressive of flat grey stones. -We here met with a countryman who joined our party and in our progress -pointed out some more of the Cytiau Gwyddellhod on (fol. 127_a_) a rising -ground called Bryn {82} ddiol, and from hence we saw a hill about two -miles to the westward named Rhos Fawr where he said were some other -remains and cromlechs but this lay so much out of our direction we could -not visit them. At Marian Mawr Mr. Richards quitted us. We were indeed -much indebted to him for his polite attention in accompanying us thus far -for I am convinced that without his assistance we should have passed many -of these curious remains the common people in general being ignorant of -everything of the kind. This gentleman seems to have paid a good deal of -attention to antiquities and has promised to favour me with a letter on -the subject on my return home. But I could not help remarking in the -course of conversation that superstition does not seem confined to the -ignorant and illiterate for he told me very gravely (fol. 129) that there -were companies of fairies still existing in Wales and particularly in -Anglesea and that he had frequently driven them from their haunts. He -also spoke of the knockers supposed to be little invisible beings -favourable to the miners who by making a variety of sounds underground -lead them to those places where there is the greatest quantity of ore. I -could only be silent when I heard these opinions advanced but he has -directed me to a book lately published by Mr. Edmund Jones of Pontypool -on the subject. At Marian Mawr are six large stones of the same kind as -the substrata rising above seven feet. They have obtained the name of -cromlech but I rather imagine them to be natural productions. - -Under the guidance of the countryman we proceeded to Red Wharf. Passed -more of the Cytiau Gwyddelhod at a place called Trescifion. Near here is -an ancient mansion house called Glynn now belonging to Mr. Meyricke (fol. -129_a_) the name of Glynn a title common in many parts of Wales I find -implies a situation lying in a narrow valley overgrown with trees. Not -far beyond was a house in which Mr. Hughes resided before his vast -acquisition in the Parys mountain. Arrived at Red Wharf a little before -dark and the house promised but very bad accommodations we were obliged -to put up with them. Our eating was of the least importance but on -retiring to my sleeping apartment although the woman had provided clean -linen the _toute ensemble_ was so dirty I passed the night without taking -off my cloaths. - - - -SUNDAY, DECR. 12 - - -We were not sorry to leave this wretched alehouse as soon as there was -sufficient light to see our direction three miles across the sands of -Traeth Gôch to the village of Llanddona whose church stands on an -eminence above the (fol. 130) bay and was first founded by Ddona grandson -of Brychfael ys Cythrog (who fought the Saxons when the monks of Bangor -Iscoed were slaughtered) anno six hundred and ten. About half a mile to -the left are the traces of a large entrenchment supposed to have been -thrown up by the Britons as a defence against the northern invaders. -This is on a rising knoll called Dyn Sylwyn {84a} or Round Table Hill. -This we had not leisure to see being obliged to hasten to Llainestan -{84b} about a mile in the contrary direction in order to have sufficient -time to notice an ancient monument, mentioned by Mr. Rowlands, before -service began. Fortunately the church door was open and we met with no -interruption during the half hour we stayed there. The object in -question covering a cenotaph rose about two feet above the pavement near -the communion table. A person in a sacerdotal habit holding a pastoral -crook in his right hand and in his left a scroll is here represented, -whereon is inscribed (fol. 131_a_) hic jacet sanctus Jestinus cui &c., -round the border of the slab towards the head the characters in parts are -much defaced but I read Gryffydd ap Gwyllym in oblationem istam imaginem -pro salute animarum suarum. The style of workmanship appears very -similar to that of Pabo post Prid and by the way tends to confirm the -opinion we there formed that the sculpture is many centuries posterior to -the time of the persons they are designed to represent and offered as an -oblation to the church for the purpose of securing the favour and -mediation of the patron saint. That the family of this Gryffyd ap -Gwyllym resided in this neighbourhood appears from a document still -extant dated at Rhayder Gadog June the twentieth in the twenty seventh -year of Henry the sixth by which seven villaines or vassals were made -over and granted by Ednyfed Fychan ap Ednyfed Dafydd ap Gryffydd and -Howell ap Dafydd according to the feudal system still obtaining to (fol. -133) William Gryffyd ap Gwylym free tenant of Porthamel probably the very -same person who presented the effigies of St. Jesten to the church. This -Jesten founder of the church is supposed to have been the son of -Gerennius or Geraint grandson of Constantine duke of Cornwall successor -to king Arthur. The font is certainly very ancient probably coeval with -the original building. The present structure differs nothing from other -Welsh Churches. From hence proceeded across a swampy heath for a mile -and a half to an old mansion called Fotti {85} Rhydderch or Roderick’s -summer house having been directed thither to see an inscription cut over -an arched chimney piece in the kitchen. The characters appear to be -about the time of Henry the eighth or his successor and are read Si deus -nobiscum quis contra nos. This place formerly the residence of a -gentleman’s family like most others we have had occasion to notice in the -island is now tenanted by a farmer (fol. 133_a_) who has a fine family of -nine children. The eldest a lad of only eleven years old engaged to -conduct us to the cromlechs at Cremlyn and Trefor. At the former place -there is little worthy of notice but at the latter I took two sketches of -a very perfect cromlech the upper stone measuring about three yards -across supported by two uprights the larger six feet high the other not -above four and a half which cause the cap stone to recline in a slanting -direction. Another long stone now lying on the ground appears to have -been formerly used as a supporter. Near at hand also are three or four -flat stones lying promiscuously. - - [Picture: No. 58. Ancient Monument in Llaniestyn] - - [Picture: No. 59. Font at Llaniestyn] - - [Picture: No. 60. Cromlech at Trefor] - - [Picture: No. 61. Cromlech at Trefor] - -Whether these were ever employed in the formation of a second cromlech -like at Praes Addfed {86a} I cannot pretend to determine. About two -fields from hence in our way to Penymynnedd {86b} we traced one of very -small dimensions, the cap stone not being above a yard across and its two -supporters a foot and a half high. - -(fol. 136) After a toilsome walk we arrived at Penymynnedd a place -formerly in possession of the Tudor family whose descendant Owen became -of such consequence in the British history by marrying Catherine widow of -Henry the fifth. In the church we perceived a handsome marble monument -said to belong to that family whereon are the effigies of a knight in -armour with his lady by his side. There being no inscription we could -not determine its exact date but from the workmanship I should imagine it -was posterior to the time of Owen who if I mistake not was buried in the -cathedral of St. Davids but of this I shall inform myself hereafter. - -The church of Penymynnedd formerly went by the name of its founder whose -tomb they pointed out under a kind of gothic nitch in the north wall -without any kind of inscription. I did not copy the monument on account -of there being a good many people in church (fol. 136_a_) and I wished -not to put a stumbling block in my brother’s way but I afterwards made a -sketch from memory just to notice the place. After a homely meal we -walked half a mile across the fields to the turnpike, and in the course -of an hour arrived at Bangor ferry completely soaked a heavy rain having -accompanied us all the way. Crossed the water about two with the design -of reaching Capel Cerig to sleep but in this we were disappointed through -the inattention of our guide who having stopped behind on some pretence -we mistook our way and deviated nearly four miles before we got to -Llandegai. - -It was now quite dark and stormy and we endeavoured to procure horses to -take us to the conclusion of our stage but without success, on therefore -we marched to a small public house near Lord Penrhyn’s quarries where we -met a civil reception though the accommodations were scarcely (fol. 138) -a whit better than those of the preceeding night. In the course of two -hours after our arrival our guide made his appearance with a number of -excuses I did not think it worth while to listen to. At about ten we -retired to our sleeping room. - - [Picture: No. 30. Llangwyfan Church. (See page 43.)] - - - -MONDAY, DECR. 13 - - -It rained violently all night but clearing up after breakfast we pursued -our road to Capel Cerig. In our way purchased a hone at the quarry near -Ogwen lake of a man living in a cottage close at hand who is employed on -the spot to procure this article and two or three shiploads have already -been sent to different parts. Arrived at the inn about one gratified by -our ten days tour in the island notwithstanding the bad weather we -experienced having in that period walked above an hundred and sixty eight -miles. - - * * * * * - - CORRIGENDUM. - On page 68, line 30, _for_ “auxore” _read_ “uxore.” - - - - -FOOTNOTES. - - -{11a} Llanidan House belonged to Lord Boston, from whom Mr. Williams -rented it. - -{11b} South-west. - -{13a} Castell near Bryn Gwyn. - -{13b} West. - -{14a} Braint. - -{14b} Caer Lab. - -{15a} Bodowyr. - -{15b} Half a mile south-west. - -{16a} Myfyrian. - -{16b} Tre Ifan. - -{17} Llanedwen. - -{18} Carnedd at Plâs Newydd. - -{20} Cromlech at Plâs Newydd. - -{22a} Gwydryn. - -{22b} Brynsiencyn. - -{23} Castell Idris. - -{28} Perthi Duon? - -{30a} A mile and a quarter south-west. - -{30b} Frondeg. - -{32a} Malltraeth. - -{32b} Trefdraeth. - -{34} Llysdulas. - -{36a} Llyn Coron. - -{36b} Trefeilir. - -{37} Tregarnedd? three miles to the north. “Ester mon eglwr”—should -this read . . . maes elidr? “? Esgair maes elidr.” - -{38} Cerrigceinwen. - -{44a} Llangwyfan House. - -{44b} Mynydd Cnwc. - -{46} At Ty Newydd. - -{47a} Crigyll. - -{47b} At Pentraeth. - -{49} Nhewyn. - -{50a} Gwyndy. - -{50b} At Presaddfedd. - -{50c} Feet? - -{53} Llandrygarn. - -{54} Now at Trescawen. - -{71} Alaw? - -{72a} Two miles. - -{72b} Careg Lleidr. - -{73} Can this be meant for Lleidrgoch or Llechgoch? Possibly it should -be Llidach as a chapel of this name used to stand close to the -spot.—_Cambrian Register_, ii, 288. - -{74} The exact spot where the “triangular piece of gold” was found is -not clearly indicated. Apparently it was on the North-West side of the -mountain. Mr. Skinner, however, in his sketch, shows it on the -South-East side. - -Probably the sketches were worked up in the evening from memory, which -may account for the errors which appear in some of them. - -{75a} The position where these “gold tongues” stood was probably on the -North-West side of the mountain though shown by Mr. Skinner on the -South-East. - -{75b} This town was Tre Beirdd on the North-West side of the mountain, -incorrectly indicated on the South-East side on Mr. Skinner’s ground -plan. - -{76a} Cyttiau Gwyddelod. - -{76b} These are marked on the 25 in. Ordnance Map. - -{77a} Maccudecceti. - -{77b} No such stones are now to be found here. - -{78} Catherine Jones’ burial is entered in the Register, but the stone -cannot be found. - -{79} This is incorrect. - -{80a} The thickness is about 3 ft. 6 ins. - -{80b} At this end it rests on a flat rock. - -{80c} Demolished about fifteen years ago. - -{81} William and Mary. - -{82} At Traeth Bychan? Bryn ddiol is the hill on which the -Romano-British village, close to Parciau House, is situated. - -{84a} Din Sylwy or Bwrdd Arthur. - -{84b} Llaniestyn. - -{85} Hafodty - -{86a} Presaddfedd. - -{86b} Penmynydd. - - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TEN DAYS' TOUR THROUGH THE ISLE OF -ANGLESEA*** - - -******* This file should be named 64154-0.txt or 64154-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/6/4/1/5/64154 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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