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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #64154 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/64154)
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-The Project Gutenberg eBook, Ten Days' Tour through the Isle of Anglesea,
-by John Skinner
-
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-
-Title: Ten Days' Tour through the Isle of Anglesea
- December, 1802
-
-
-Author: John Skinner
-
-
-
-Release Date: December 28, 2020 [eBook #64154]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-
-***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TEN DAYS' TOUR THROUGH THE ISLE OF
-ANGLESEA***
-
-
-Transcribed from the July 1908 Charles J. Clark edition by David Price.
-
- Archaeologia Cambrensis
-
-
-
-
-
- TEN DAYS’ TOUR
- THROUGH
- THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA
-
-
- DECEMBER, 1802
-
- BY
- REV. JOHN SKINNER
- RECTOR OF CAMERTON, SOMERSETSHIRE
-
- [Picture: Decorative shield graphic]
-
- _SUPPLEMENT_, _JULY_, 1908.
-
- * * * * *
-
- LONDON:
- Published for the Cambrian Archaeological Association by
- CHARLES J. CLARK, 65, CHANCERY LANE, W.C.
-
- * * * * *
-
-
-
-
-INTRODUCTION
-
-
-THE REV. JOHN SKINNER’S _Ten Days’ Tour Through Anglesey_, which is given
-in the following pages, has been carefully transcribed from the
-manuscript in the British Museum, the punctuation, spelling, and use of
-capitals followed strictly throughout. Some notes have been kindly
-furnished by Mr. E. Neil Baynes, F.S.A., and he has also copied (in black
-and white) most of the water-colour illustrations which are included in
-the manuscript. The illustrations are reduced from the original size,
-but with this exception and the absence of colour they have been copied
-as closely as possible, with all errors of perspective, etc. Some of the
-drawings would appear to have been done by Mr. Skinner in the evening
-from memory, and not on the spot. The complete list is printed herewith,
-and the pages where the plates appear in the original. A copy of an
-extract from Mr. Skinner’s will is subjoined, in which he expresses his
-particular wish that the chests containing his numerous notebooks should
-not be opened until the expiration of fifty years from the day of his
-death.
-
- * * * * *
-
- _Extracted from the Principal Registry of the Probate Divorce_
- _and Admiralty Division of the High Court of Justice_
- _In the Prerogative Court of Canterbury_.
-
-IN THE WILL of the Reverend JOHN SKINNER late Rector of Camerton in the
-county of Somerset deceased dated 1st February 1839 is as follows:—
-
-No. 2. I give and bequeath to the trustees of the British Museum all my
-Journals and other Manuscripts transcribed by my late brother Russell
-from No. 1 to No. 110 both inclusive and interleaved with original
-drawings together with the Journals I have made in my own hand-writing
-since my brother’s death from the year one thousand eight hundred and
-thirty three to the year one thousand eight hundred and thirty-eight in
-volume 1 to volume 36 of an Octavo size with blue Morocco backs
-containing altogether in number one hundred and forty six which I desire
-may be safely conveyed to the trustees of the British Museum with the
-five Iron Chests in which they are now contained and I request my said
-executor the Reverend John Hammond to see to the performance of this
-bequest in the manner aforesaid and it is my particular wish and request
-that neither of the Iron Chests with the contents aforesaid shall be
-opened till after the expiration of fifty years from the day of my death
-but provided the trustees of the British Museum should raise any
-objection thereto it is my will that my before mentioned request should
-not be insisted upon.
-
- Proved (with two Codicils)
- 14th November 1839
- Fos 4
- J J C
- 716 Vaughan
-
-N.B.—It is not to be inferred that the foregoing extract contains the
-only portion of the said Will referring to the matters therein mentioned.
-
-
-
-
-LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
-
- PAGE
-1. Plâs Goch 23
-2. Blochty Enclosures 25
-3. Bryn Gwyn. Stone by Cottage 27
-4. Ground Plans, Caer Leb, etc. 28
-6, 7. Bodowyr Cromlech (2) 30, 31
-8, 9, 10, 11. Carnedd at Plas Newydd (4) 34, 37
-12. Cromlech at Plas Newydd 39
- Cromlech and Stables (omitted)
-5. Ground Plan, Bryn Gwydryn, etc. 42
- Coins of Edward VI and Elizabeth
- (omitted)
- Bryn Celli, Plan and Finds 44
- Llanidan Church 49
-16. Stone (Fitzgerald) in Llanidan Church 50
-17. Maen Llwyd Cromlech 52
-18. Frondeg Stone 53
-19. Llangadwaladr Church 55
-20. Llangadwaladr Doorway, showing Stone 56
- Inscription to Rich. Williams (omitted
- as it is in the text).
-21. Llangadwaladr Church Inscribed Stone 57
-22. Henblas Cromlech 60
-23. Cerrigceinwen Church 63
-24, 25. Cerrigceinwen Church Clochti (2) 64, 55
-26, 27, 28. Cerrigceinwen Church Font (2) 66, 68
-29. Aberffraw Church Arch 70
- Llangwyfan Church (omitted)
-31. Llangwyfan Church, Interior 72
-32. Llangwyfan House 74
-33. Cromlech at Mynydd y Cnwc 75
- A half-finished sketch of Trecastel
- Bay (omitted)
-34. Llanfaelog Cromlech (2) 78, 79
-36. Crighyll Cromlech 81
-37, 39. Presaddfedd Cromlech (3) 84, 86
- Proposed Menai Bridge (omitted)
-41. Llantrisant Stone
- Pabo Stone (omitted, _vide Arch.
- Camb._, January, 1908)
- Doorway at Llanbabo (omitted, _vide
- Arch. Camb._, January, 1908)
-45. Llanfechell Stones
- Llanfechell Church and Font
-46. Llaneilian Church
- Parys Mine (omitted)
-48. Three Stones (near Amlwch)
-49. Llanol Stone
-50. Cromlech on Bodafon Mountain and
- Carreg Lleidr
- Coin of Diocletian (omitted)
-51. View of Bodafon Mountain from N.W.
-52. View of Bodafon Mountain from S.E.
-53. Stones in Penrhos lligwy Churchyard
-54. Lligwy Cromlech
-55. Lligwy Cromlech, Caer Lligwy
-56. Llanallgo Cromlech and Font (_vide_
- note)
- Stones at Marianglas (omitted)
-58. Llaniestyn Stone
-59. Llaniestyn Font
-60, 61. Cromlech at Trefor (2)
- Altar Tomb in Penmynydd Church,
- sketched from memory (omitted)
-
-No. 99. The stepped gable over the gateway should, I think, be over the
-porch, and the pointed gable shown over the porch should be over the
-gateway, but I am not certain.
-
-No. 115. The font described as in Penrhoslligwy Church is really the old
-font of Llanallgo. It was covered with plaster and set on a rough mass
-of masonry. When the Church was restored, about fifteen years ago, the
-plaster was cut away and the font was redressed.
-
- * * * * *
-
-N.B.—The beginning of a page in the original is marked by the
-introduction in the text of folio and number between brackets, thus (fol.
-22).
-
- _Additional MSS._ 33,636
-
- This book was transcribed from my Journal by my
- brother RUSSELL SKINNER (who was the companion
- of my Tour) Anno Dom: 1804
-
- * * * * *
-
-
-
-
-SKETCHES IN ANGLESEA
-TAKEN IN DECEMBER 1802
-
-
- BY
- REVD. JOHN SKINNER
-
- 1802
- 62
-
- 1740
-
-I give this Vol. of my Anglesea Tour with my other Journals, to the
-British Museum to be retained by them according to the directions I have
-left in my will respecting the disposal of my MSS.
-
- (fol. 22)
-
-
-
-
-TEN DAYS’ TOUR THE
-ISLE OF ANGLESEA
-ANNO 1802
-
-
-THURSDAY, DECEMBER 2
-
-
-WE left Capel Cerig early this morning on horseback with the design of
-examining the Celtic remains in the Isle of Anglesea the Harper of the
-inn accompanying us in the capacity of interpreter. After a ride of
-fifteen miles along the vale of Nantffrancon by Lord Penrhyn’s quarries
-we came to Moel-don ferry about eleven o’clock when returning our horses
-by a boy (fol. 22_a_) (previously sent forward for the purpose from Capel
-Cerig) we proceeded as pedestrians. Our passage across the Menai
-savoured somewhat of quixottism for the ferry boat being on the other
-side waiting for passengers we were unable to brook the delay so taking
-possession of a fisherman’s skiff lying on the beach we rowed to the
-Island pursuing nearly the same track as the Romans seventeen hundred
-years ago under the command of Paulinus Suetonius which event is so
-particularly described by Tacitus.
-
- [Picture: No. 1. Plâs Goch, December 2]
-
- [Picture: No. 2. Sketch]
-
-On our landing we immediately made the necessary enquiries at a public
-house for the route we were to pursue and found the places we had noted
-down lay so wide asunder it would be impossible to comprehend them in the
-course of the day. We accordingly determined on making that our sleeping
-place and after a slight meal (fol. 24) took the road across the fields
-to Llanidan. In our way passed an ancient mansion called Plâs Goch
-apparently built in the time of Elizabeth. A little way beyond the house
-is a natural barrier of rock rising abruptly above the level ground and
-extending almost the whole way to Porthamel the distance of half a mile.
-Near this place in a meadow the Romans are supposed to have formed their
-ranks immediately on landing and the field to this day retains the name
-of Pant y scraffie, or the place of the passage boats. At low tides the
-channel is not above three or four feet deep so that it might easily have
-been crossed by the cavalry in the manner described by the Historian and
-the natural barrier before mentioned being so contiguous, it is not at
-all improbable that it was the first post occupied by the Romans under
-Paulinus Suetonius on their invasion of the island 1740 years ago.
-“Igitur Monam insulam, incolis validam et receptaculum perfugarum adgredi
-parat, navesque fabricatur plano alveo adversus breve litus (flat
-bottomed boats to pass over the shallows) et incertum—sic pedes—(the
-infantry thus passed over) equites vado secuti aut altiores inter undas
-adnantes equis tramisere.” The cavalry followed the infantry, and by
-fording and swimming over the deeper channels arrived at the opposite
-side. Tac. Ann. lib. 14, c. 29. A few minutes’ walk brought us to
-Llanidan church, which seems superior to (fol. 24_a_) the generality of
-Welsh buildings of the kind having a double roof and two bells in the
-clochti or belfry. A large irregular built mansion {11a} belonging to
-Mr. Williams who has acquired such immense property in the Pary’s Mines
-stands close to it. From Llanidan we took the road to Bryn Shenkin half
-a mile beyond. It is where Mr. Roland supposes the Britons formerly had
-a town but now every trace is lost. Having procured a lad well
-acquainted with the neighbourhood to conduct us by the nearest route we
-quickly proceeded to Blochti half a mile further to the north-west. {11b}
-At this place on a steep bank or rather ridge of rock (a quarry being now
-worked beneath) we traced the foundations of four or five circular
-buildings in a line close to each other each measuring nearly seven yards
-in diameter. The same gentleman Mr. Rowland describes these as the
-remains (fol. 26) of British habitations and his opinion seems to be
-confirmed by some others of a similar form lying in a meadow called
-Tan-ben-y-cefn not two hundred yards from the spot. These latter are
-surrounded by two quadrangular earthworks the larger fifty yards by forty
-containing four of these circular foundations the smaller (forty yards by
-thirty) only two. It is not improbable that some of the Roman soldiers
-might have occupied this spot after driving the inhabitants from their
-possessions and that the earth works were thrown up by them by way of
-security.
-
- [Picture: No. 3. Druidical Stone standing near a Cottage called Bryn
- Gwyn]
-
-Crossing a barren marshy heath we saw the banks of a circular work
-probably formed for the same purpose as that we before noticed at
-Caerleon and I presume was a gymnasium or place of exercise (the country
-people indeed have an idea it was a fortification as our guide informed
-us it still goes by the name of the Castle. {13a} Whatever it was it
-does not appear to have been at all connected with the Druidical worship
-(fol. 26_a_) as Mr. Rowland supposes). The mound encompassing the area
-may be from ten to fifteen feet in height the diameter of the circle
-sixty yards. This measurement I believe is nearly accurate but part of
-the circle having been destroyed in order to form a cart road makes it
-more difficult to determine with certainty. On enquiring for some
-ancient stones noticed by Mr. Roland at a place called Bryn Gwyn we were
-directed to one standing near a cottage a quarter of a mile to the
-north-west {13b} of the circus. It was of a lozenge form measuring above
-three yards in height and two in width. We observed none of equal
-dimensions near at hand but in a field at the back of the cottage there
-were six each about a yard high placed three and three at equal distances
-so as to form two exact triangles. From hence we proceeded along higher
-ground to a farm house called (fol. 29) Tref Drw (Druids town) where some
-of that venerable order are said to have resided. Now the name alone
-records the circumstance to posterity as there is nothing remaining which
-can be attributed to so remote a period. But not far distant we were
-directed to a quadrangular earth work thrown up on marshy ground near the
-brook (or as it is termed by the inhabitants the river Briant). {14a}
-The outer mound {14b} measures fifty yards by forty and is about five
-feet in height the trench 12 feet wide. Near the centre of the enclosure
-we noticed the foundation of another of the circular huts above mentioned
-and in an angle to the south east appearances of walls and buildings.
-The course of the river must have altered considerably in aftertimes
-otherwise the Romans would hardly have chosen so damp a spot even for a
-temporary encampment. Still continuing in a northerly direction and
-leaping over the river Briant we regained the higher ground near (fol.
-29_a_) Bodower {15a} house which is at present occupied by a farmer who
-rents the property of Lord Boston. Here we were gratified by the sight
-of a very perfect chromlech standing in a field to the N.W. {15b} of the
-house. The upper stone terminates in a ridge like the roof of a building
-and measures seven feet four inches long three feet deep and four wide:
-this is sustained by three supporters each three feet in height & nearly
-the same in thickness. That cromlechs were not always used (if they were
-at all) as altars for sacrifice I think may be demonstrated by the one
-before us (as its Pyramidical form is by no means adapted to the purpose.
-Indeed there is a tradition amongst the Welsh that this rude memorial was
-erected over the grave of a British princess named Bronwen who flourished
-in the year of the world 3105!!!!). My sketches being finished we
-hastened on hoping to reach Mafyrian {16a} a mile and a half further
-before the evening closed in but owing to a mistake of the guide’s we
-lost our way and wandered about until it grew quite dark. Our
-disappointment however was in some respect alleviated (fol. 32) by the
-intelligence we received of some Roman coins in possession of a person at
-Tre Evan {16b} a cottage we were to pass on our return. The moon having
-by this time risen above the horizon we had a pleasant walk to Tre Evan
-and entering the door made known the purport of our visit to the good
-lady of the house who readily acknowledged she once had a great many bits
-of brass money but thinking them of no value had given them her children
-to play with. On our anxious request through our interpreter for a more
-exact scruitiny in this important concern she began rumaging a little
-cupboard and at length produced a counterfeit shilling of William the
-third which she said was all that she retained of any money. This was a
-mortifying termination to our suspence as we were in hope a few (fol.
-32_a_) might have escaped the general dispertion. On enquiring how the
-brass coins came into her possession she informed us that about six years
-ago whilst a labourer was building a wall round a field near her house he
-took materials for the purpose from the foundations of some circular
-buildings (similar to those at Blochti) in one of which he discovered a
-millstone containing in the cavity at the centre about two quarts of
-brass coins. He also dug up a smaller millstone which she still retained
-in her cottage. On producing it I found it of a close texture and tho’
-only ten inches in diameter weighing twenty-six pounds. This probably
-belonged to a hand mill as it seems to resemble those I noticed in my
-excursion along the Roman wall. By the way the circumstance of finding
-these coins hid in the foundation of a circular building sufficiently
-proves that the Romans occupied the premises after the Britons had
-quitted them. We returned at seven o’clock to Moel-don and supped in
-company with a young clergyman just appointed to the curacy of the
-parish. He proved an agreeable companion and gave us some interesting
-(fol. 33) information regarding the new regulations at Oxford. On
-retiring to our sleeping apartments we found them altogether the most
-homely I ever occupied. However as we had made up our minds not to
-quarrel with trivial difficulties we resigned ourselves to our lot
-without murmuring and sleep soon veiled all in oblivion.
-
- [Picture: No. 4. Sketch]
-
- [Picture: No. 6. Side view of Bodowyr Cromlech]
-
- [Picture: No. 7. End view of Bodowyr Cromlech]
-
-
-
-FRIDAY, DECR. 3
-
-
-We were up early this morning but it rained so fast we could not leave
-the house till ten. I employed the interval in copying a map of the
-Island on a large scale which is to be filled up as we proceed.
-Accompanied by our new acquaintance we first visited Llanedwyn {17}
-church where he officiates for the first time next Sunday. The church
-yard and a great part of the parish has lately been enclosed by Lord
-Uxbridge’s park walls and we were not a little surprized to find a (fol.
-33_a_) porter’s lodge and a locked gate on the church road.
-
-In the church yard is a flat stone with a Latin inscription to Rowlands
-the antiquarian who held this living with Llanidan for many years. We
-found by the date that he died in one thousand seven hundred and
-twenty-seven.
-
-What is very extraordinary for the author of such a book as _Mona
-Antiqua_ we were told he was never above once out of the Island in his
-life.
-
- [Picture: No. 8. Carnedd in Lord Uxbridge’s Park, North Side]
-
-Llanedwyn church is said by this gentleman to have been originally
-founded by Edwen neice or daughter to king Edwin anno domini six hundred
-and four though none of the present building we presume can boast of that
-antiquity it being formed after the present model of Welsh churches. Yet
-it retains its bason for holy water, its modern crosses, and a curious
-inscription cut on the back of one of the pews, the letters running in a
-circle with I. H. S. in the centre. I believe the inscription is Welsh:
-the character (fol. 38) apparently that made use of in the time of Henry
-the seventh. From hence we pursued our walk across the park towards Lord
-Uxbridge’s house stopping in the way to examine a very large Carnedd {18}
-or artificial hillock formed of loose stones but now overgrown with turf
-and trees. This remain is one of the most considerable in the island
-measuring one hundred and thirty-four paces in circumference. On walking
-round it we observed a square opening on the south side which I entered
-on my hands and knees and found it about ten feet long, four wide and
-three high, the sides formed of three large flat stones placed edgeways
-in the ground supporting the roof which consists of only two. I have
-endeavoured to be as exact as I could in my drawings of this cistfaen
-(which without doubt it was) and employed as the grave of some
-considerable personage (folio 38_a_) in ancient times though Mr. Rowlands
-appropriates the carnedd to a very different use and connects it with the
-religion of the Druids. In his time three skeletons were discovered in
-digging near the surface of the carnedd which gave him an idea of its
-being a place of sacrifice but he had never an opportunity of viewing the
-interior (the opening having been discovered within these few years) he
-was unable to speak with certainty on the subject. This was certainly
-the mode of sepulture among the Britons, and northern invaders before the
-introduction of Christianity, and many of the open parts of England
-especially Wiltshire & Dorsetshire abound in them, there they are
-denomenated barrows, in Derbyshire & the northern counties they are
-called lows. The term carnedd implies a heap of stones.
-
- [Picture: No. 9. South Side and Entrance of the Carnedd]
-
- [Picture: No. 10. Ground Plan of the Cisfaen within the Carnedd]
-
- [Picture: No. 11. Interior of the Cisfaen, the Right-hand Side on
- Entering]
-
- [Picture: No. 12. Cromlech in Lord Uxbridge’s Park]
-
-From hence we proceeded to look at a very large cromlech {20} or
-Druidical altar preserved in the Park near his lordship’s stables. In
-our way there we passed in front of the house a vast pile of building
-designed by Wyatt and recently fitted up with every elegance of modern
-refinement but as the family (fol. 41) were at home we could not visit
-the interiour. However I made a drawing of the cromlech which is nearly
-four yards long and above a yard thick, the supporters at the north end
-nearly five feet high a smaller stone lying close to the other extremity
-measuring three feet long and two and a half thick has also its small
-supporters and is to all appearance intended as a separate cromlech. A
-large tree spreading its branches over the moss grown stone and the
-venerable wood sheltering the park are still very impressive and give
-some idea of the enthusiasm these objects were capable of inspiring when
-connected with superstition. The stables, not far distant from the spot
-are built in a style of gothic architecture resembling an extensive
-monastery, the pampered and lazy steeds within their stalls may be
-considered as no inapt emblem of the former (fol. 41_a_) inhabitants of
-such kind of edifices. From hence we walked to a modern villa situated
-in another part of the grounds called Fort Cæsar built by Colonel Peacock
-about 20 years since, but on Lord Uxbridge’s purchasing the Colonel’s
-estate it was enclosed within that park, as is also a more ancient
-mansion called Plâs Llanedwyn besides many farm houses and cottages. The
-park wall has not long since been erected, it is built of stone ten feet
-high and extends nearly four miles in length.
-
- [Picture: No. 5]
-
-Returning to Llanedwyn church we proceeded in company with Mr. Hughes of
-Plâs Goch towards Bryn Gwiderin. In our way thither he engaged a young
-man well acquainted with the country to conduct us to those places we had
-marked out in our list for the day. Bryn Gwiderin {22a} is a natural
-ledge of rock resembling what we before noticed at Plâs Goch running for
-upwards of two miles towards Bryn Shenkin {22b} the (fol. 43) Beaumaris
-road being formed on the summit. The Romans are supposed to have fixed
-upon this spot as their principal station in the Island though the shape
-of the fortress {23} differs from their usual form being a semicircle
-ninety yards across defended by a triple trench to the southward and to
-the north by the natural barrier above mentioned. I was anxious to see
-whether the walls had been constructed with cement as in the more
-finished works of the Romans but could gain no information on the subject
-having nothing with us to clear away the rubbish from the surface. On
-asking the guide whether they had ever discovered any copper coins, he
-said oh yes he had some in his possession and off he ran like a dart to
-his cottage nearly half a mile distant. We waited his return hoping at
-length our wishes would be gratified in this respect when lo! instead of
-coins bearing the effigies of the Cæsars he produced a handful of (fol.
-43_a_) rough copper ore, on explaining to him what we wanted saying they
-resembled a piece of money he said he had one of that kind also of silver
-which he picked up a short time since in a field near home whither he
-returned with equal alacrity to procure it and shortly made his
-appearance with a shilling of Elizabeth’s!!! So much for coins. There
-seems to be a fatality against my collecting any. In my excursion along
-the Roman Wall I heard of many but could obtain none. Those I procured
-at Caerwent are unfortunately lost many have certainly been dug up in
-these parts but either lost or disposed of. We continued our progress
-from Bryn Gwyderin in a northerly direction towards Mafyrian the distance
-of two miles over heaths & bogs. At this place we expected to meet with
-some Druidical remains noticed by Mr. Rowlands but they have all been
-cleared (fol. 45) away since his time. At Bodlew we experienced a
-similar disappointment. We therefore proceeded towards Llanddeiniol
-church in expectation of seeing some painted glass said to have been
-presented by the notorious Judge Jeffries whose family formerly resided
-here but nothing of the kind was to be seen or indeed anything else for
-never was I in so dark or dismal a place. But in this parish we were
-fully recompensed for all our former disappointments by the sight of the
-Carnedd at Bryn Celli.
-
- [Picture: Bryn Celli Ddu Cromlech]
-
-Accompanied by a young farmer who procured a lanthorn for the purpose we
-walked nearly a mile to the south east of the church to the spot where in
-Mr. Rowlands’ time there were two carnedds remaining having two rude
-stone pillars placed between them but these stones have been employed for
-the purpose of building a wall near this place as well as a great part
-(fol. 45_a_) of the western carnedd which is nearly destroyed for the
-same purpose about twenty years ago when the labourers when digging
-towards the center discovered a flat pan about ten inches overturned
-bottom upwards and under it a wedge of gold as they pretend the size of
-the heater of an iron with a piece of wire passing through the smaller
-end of it. The father of the young man who was with us happened to be
-one of the workmen employed at the time, but as what they found was
-immediately taken by Colonel Peacock the proprietor of the ground the man
-could give no further account of the circumstance. I should imagine that
-what they called the wedge of gold was no other than one of the brazen
-celts or sacrificial instruments used in former times which have been
-discovered in great numbers in Cornwall and (fol. 46) other parts of the
-kingdom. Whilst a farmer was removing some of the stones from the north
-east side of the larger carnedd to employ them in his repairs he came to
-the mouth of a passage covered with a square stone similar to that at
-Plâs Newydd, anxious to reap the fruits of his discovery he procured a
-light and crept forward on his hands and knees along the dreary vault,
-when lo! in a chamber at the further end a figure in white seemed to
-forbid his approach. The poor man had scarcely power sufficient to crawl
-backwards out of this den of spirits as he imagined however in the course
-of a few days instigated by the hopes of riches and the presence of many
-assistants he made his second _entré_ into the cavern and finding the
-white gentleman did not offer to stir he boldly went (fol. 46_a_) forward
-and discovered the object of his apprehensions was no other than a stone
-pillar about six feet in height standing in the centre of the chamber.
-His former consternation could now only be exceeded by his eagerness to
-see what was contained beneath the stone which he shortly overturned but
-treasure there was none, some large human bones lying near the pillar
-sufficiently testifying the purpose for which the structure was intended.
-This is the substance of the account we received from the young man whose
-father was one of Colonel Peacock’s labourers and on the premises at the
-time of the discovery. The superstition of the common people still
-suppose this to be the habitation of spirits.
-
-Our two conductors seeming rather to compliment each other about
-precedence I took the lanthorn and crawling for about twelve feet along
-(fol. 47) a narrow passage got into a more capacious chamber, my
-companions followed close at my heels and we assembled to the number of
-six in this singular sepulchre. The passage by which we entered is about
-three feet high and a little more in breadth and was formed like that we
-noticed at Plâs Newydd with flat stones stuck endways and covered with
-others of still greater magnitude laid across. I have still my doubts
-that if the former was further explored it might terminate in a similar
-vault to what we are now speaking of. The height of the chamber is nine
-feet, its form nearly triangular some of the sides being about three
-yards long and four or five feet high. The intermediate space up to the
-roof is filled with stones placed one above the other in the manner they
-build walls but without any kind of cement. Two prodigious flat stones
-covered the whole one about three yards in length and two in breadth
-(fol. 47_a_) the other not quite so large. These are of a gritty
-substance not like any stone found in the vicinity. The pillar still
-lying in the cavern is a kind of freestone and seems to have been rounded
-by the tool. On examining more minutely this singular structure we were
-not a little annoyed by a tribe of immense spiders who have reigned here
-unmolested for ages the cones containing their young ones suspended from
-different parts of the roof nearly as large as those of silk worms.
-
-I suppose we were in this mansion of the dead half an hour and on
-regaining the open air found the evening shut in, and the gloom still
-heightened by a heavy rain which accompanied us the whole way to Moel-don
-where we arrived very wet to a late dinner and went early to bed.
-
-
-
-(Fol. 48) SATURDAY, DECR. 4
-
-
-We were up as soon as it was light this morning and having taken leave of
-our new acquaintance who seems destined to vegetate on sixty pounds per
-annum with the charge of three churches and a wife into the bargain, we
-proceeded along the shore of the Menai to Llanidan. In our way observed
-more particularly Pant y scraffie the meadow where the Romans are
-supposed to have effected their landing. Mr. Rowland with some
-probability derives y scraffie from the Latin word scaphae a kind of flat
-boats or skiffs best adapted for a shallow coast. We stopped a few
-minutes at Llanidan to look at the inside of the church. Mr. Williams
-senior, who died last week at Bath is expected to be interred here. Like
-Sir Benjamin Hamet and Mr. Allen though sprung from a mean origin he
-(fol. 48_a_) acquired a princely fortune having been first agent and then
-afterwards partner in that lucrative concern the Parys mine. I took a
-drawing of Llanidan church and afterwards copied an inscription in the
-church yard bearing date 1640 the character differs from most others of
-the same period. The interior of the building has little to attract
-notice but Russell copied the following inscription to a Mr. Fitz Gerald
-who appears to have been resident at the old mansion at Bodowyr in the
-beginning of the last century. Some arms of a prior date let into the
-wall near the communion table are I believe the same as those placed over
-the entrance door of the house. “Here lyeth Price Fitz Gerald of Bodowir
-Gent. son of Edmund Fitz Gerald Gent. and Mary Price who died April xii
-MDCCIX being lineally descended from Gerard Oge of Rathrown who was (fol.
-51) descended from Mac Thomas a younger son of the Earl of Kildare in
-Ireland aet xxxiv. iv. M 8 R I P.” The lad who had been our conductor
-yesterday still accompanied us and I confess I was not a little pleased
-with his disinterested attention. We took nearly the same route we had
-done before from Bryn Shenkin to Blochti in order to see a cromlech {28}
-called Maen Llhwyd, not having been able to procure any intelligence
-respecting it when here the other day.
-
- [Picture: Llanidan Church]
-
-The cap stone and its three supporters remain still on the spot but have
-long since been thrown prostrate on the ground. If I remember right Mr.
-Rowlands speaks of it as a demolished cromlech in his time. The cap
-stone is nearly circular measuring about two yards and a half in diameter
-and a yard in thickness. The two supporters lying near it are about two
-yards each in length, the third we could not take the dimensions of (fol.
-51_a_) because the cap stone had fallen over it.
-
- [Picture: No. 16. Inscriptions at Llanidan]
-
-From Maen Llhwyd we took the direction to Bodowyr which gave us an
-opportunity of seeing Tre Fwry the field in which the Roman coins were
-dug up. Four or five circular buildings may here be traced close to the
-brook Briant.
-
- [Picture: No. 17. Maen Llhwyd, a demolished Cromlech near Blochty]
-
-I believe that most of the stones that form the wall round the field were
-taken from this spot. Having taken a rough sketch of the place we
-proceeded on to Bodowyr. In a stubble field rather to the westward of
-the house we noticed some foundations of buildings covering about an acre
-of ground. The country people have a tradition that a large town once
-stood here but so many of the stones have been removed to clear the
-ground it is impossible to form any idea respecting it.
-
-Proceeding across the fields for three {30a} miles to the north west we
-came to a farm house called Fron Dûg {30b} where we had been directed to
-enquire for a stone (fol. 54) with an inscription now employed as a
-gatepost on the premises. We soon found the spot and we endeavoured to
-trace the rude characters with as much care as possible. I imagine the
-stone was intended for a boundary and that the VI and the letters
-underneath refer to some measurement of property. The other part I think
-is more intelligible and thus read Mad. Filius Lluricini erexit hunc
-lapidem.
-
- [Picture: No. 18. Stone near Frondûg, 5 ft. in height]
-
- [Picture: No. 19. Llancadwaladr Church]
-
- [Picture: No. 21. Ancient Characters over the Doorway at Llancadwaladr
- Church]
-
-The farmer living on the spot gave a curious account of the stone having
-once been taken away to be employed in building a limekiln by a person in
-the neighbourhood but he added with great earnestness that nothing
-succeeded with him till he had again restored it to its place. It now
-forms a gate post though the gate is hung on the opposite side of the
-way. We here separated from the good natured lad who had attended us so
-many miles and finding him superior to any pecuniary recompence I gave
-(fol. 54_a_) him a silk handkerchief from my neck which he says he shall
-keep as long as he lives. Before he left us he made interest at a farm
-house for horses to carry us over Malltreath {32a} a swampy flat covered
-by the sea at high tides. However we passed without difficulty pushing
-straight forwards towards a village church called Treasdreath {32b} and
-passed a large stone called Maen hîr. From hence leaving Mr. Meyrick’s
-house a large mansion to the left we made the best of our way to
-Llancadwaladr church about two miles distant. We had noted down this
-place from Mr. Rowlands on account of an ancient inscription placed there
-by Cadwalader last king of the Britons to commemorate Catamanus or
-Catwallon his grandfather. The characters are very deeply cut on a stone
-above four feet long forming the lintern to the doorway of the church and
-is read Catamanus Rex sapientissimus opinatissimus omnium (fol. 58)
-regum. This Cadfan or Catamanus according to Mr. Rowlands was chosen
-King of the Britons anno six hundred and thirteen and is said to have
-been buried in the Isle of Bardsey but in Sir John Wynne’s pedigree we
-find an account of a Cadwallader of a much later date he being brother of
-Owen Gwynnedd stiled king of Wales. Whether this was the person who
-founded the church or whether it was built as Mr. Rowlands says prior to
-that period the Welsh historians must determine. I only hint this
-because I found nothing in the structure of the building to corroborate
-so remote an antiquity as the chief window to the east appears to be
-about the time of Henry the seventh or eighth and on it is some painted
-glass in the characters of that age (fol. 58_a_). A chapel attached to
-the north side of the church was built anno sixteen hundred sixty six by
-dame Owen as we learnt by the following inscription over the doorway.
-This chapel was built by Anne Owen widdowe, daughter and inheretrix of
-Richard Williams of Llasdûlas {34} Esqre according to the direction of
-her deare husband Hugh Owen Esqre sixteen hundred sixty one. Under some
-arms painted on the glass of the chapel was, appointed by her deare
-husband Hugh Owen sonne and heir of Will Owen of Bodowen Esqre and
-erected by his dear wife Anne.
-
-[Picture: No. 20. Doorway at Llancadwaladr Church with an Inscription to
- the Memory of Hugh Owen, Esq.]
-
-Under a monument erected against the east wall of the church where a
-knight in armour and a lady are kneeling before an altar are the
-following curious lines containing more of loyalty than poesy (fol. 59)—
-
- To the memory of Hugh Owen Esqre of Bodowen who died the twenty first
- of October sixteen hundred fifty nine.
-
- Religion, learning, friends, poor have lost
- A noble patron who maintained them at his cost
- His country’s patriot most firme to loyalty
- And for being loyal suffer’d infinitely
- With foes would not cologue nor his prince betray
- But livde his faithful subject every day.
-
- This monument was made by Anne his beloved wife the daughter and
- inheritrix of Richard Williams of Llasdûlas Esqre in memory of her
- deare husband sixteen hundred sixty.
-
-Mr. Meyricke the owner of Bodowen is first repairing his family chapel on
-the opposite side. The original edifice as appears by a stone lying in
-the church was built by Richard Meyricke Esqre anno sixteen hundred forty
-(fol. 59_a_) and the vault underneath by his great grandson Owen Meyricke
-Esqre seventeen hundred thirty. The evening was closing in fast before
-we had finished our observations at Llancadwaladr.
-
-A dreary walk of two miles over the sands to Aberffraw was rendered still
-more disagreeable by an incessant and heavy rain and we had no small
-degree of anxiety the whole of our walk lest we should be still more
-unfortunate in not gaining admittance at the public house as we
-understood that a number of Westleans with Mr. Charles at their head were
-to have a meeting the following day in the village. However on our
-arrival at the house we found a good welcome and much better quarters
-than we had reason to expect. After a comfortable supper of boiled
-rabbit we retired to rest.
-
-
-
-(fol. 61) SUNDAY, DECR. 5
-
-
- [Picture: No. 22. Cromlech at Henblas]
-
- [Picture: No. 23. Cerigainwyn Church]
-
-This morning after breakfast the weather being tolerably fair we walked
-to Henblâs in the parish of Llangristiolus in expectation of seeing a
-cromlech mentioned in our list. In our way thither we skirted a lake
-{36a} about two miles in circumference and noticed large flocks of wild
-ducks and other acquatic birds near the shore but on our approach they
-swam immediately to the middle of the water. About a mile and a half
-beyond we passed a large house called Trefyla {36b} belonging to Mr.
-Evans and at Henblâs another the property of his sister but at present
-only tenanted by a gardener who accompanied us over the fields to the
-object we came in search of. We here found three immense stones two of
-them above fifteen feet high and nearly the same in width standing
-upright in the ground, another of a (fol. 61_a_) flatter form leant
-against them. I cannot imagine there is anything artificial in the
-arrangements of these ponderous bodies but that their position is the one
-they were placed in by the hand of nature. Whether they ever were or
-were not employed by the Druids I do not pretend to determine. And here
-we may observe the word cromlech is applied by the Welsh indiscriminately
-to stones either natural or artificial if they are only found inclining
-in such a direction that there is a hollow underneath. The largest stone
-in the pass of Llanberis which not many years ago rolled from the heights
-above obtains the name of cromlech vawr and the same may be observed in
-many other instances. On returning from this spot the gardener who
-seemed to be an intelligent man pointed to a rising ground to the
-southward about two miles off which he said was called (fol. 62) Ester
-{37} mon eglwr where are still to be traced the foundations of an ancient
-fortress and tradition says a lofty watch tower once stood on this
-eminence commanding the circumference of the Island. From hence a
-causeway ran across the low ground towards a large carnedd wherein were
-discovered many human bones. Not far from hence he himself picked up a
-piece of silver coin which he had given to a lady in the neighbourhood.
-As we had received intelligence of some old characters cut in the wall of
-Cerigainwyn {38} Church we walked thither and were glad to find something
-better worthy of notice than the cromlech we had quitted for here are
-still visible some large Saxon characters cut very deep in the stone of
-the clochti or belfry. In order to transcribe them more perfectly I
-procured a ladder and mounted aloft but this (fol. 62_a_) enterprize was
-attended with no small difficulty for being obliged to employ both hands
-while sketching and the ladder lying very slanting I could only depend
-upon the toes of my boots for support against the wall. Whilst thus
-situated there came on a violent storm of sleet and hail which so
-benumbed my hands I hurried the business more than I otherwise should
-have done but still I think I have the drawing pretty exact. These rude
-Saxon characters appear to be coeval with the building and probably were
-designed to perpetuate the name of its founder and the date of the
-foundation but when the original edifice grew to decay they were taken
-out of their original order and placed just as they happened to come into
-use in the building the clochti so that many of the letters are lost or
-inverted. I think I am authorized to make this conjecture by the (fol.
-69) present appearance of the U and the S which are evidently reversed.
-Other letters are also wanting to make good the inscription. The font
-within the church is without doubt equally ancient as it retains the
-Runic lines and ornaments which were used among the northern nations of
-the sixth and seventh century. Of this I made three drawings. The clerk
-a surly Jewish looking fellow seemed at first inclined to be very
-impudent, but I did not neglect to fee him for the same reason the Angel
-did the Miser in Parnell’s beautiful poem of the Hermit namely to make
-him more civil and attentive to other travellers should curiosity ever
-lead them to this spot. The clouds now gathering round us and everything
-seeming to portend bad weather we made the best of our way to Aberffraw
-having altogether walked twelve miles.
-
- [Picture: No. 24. Clochty at Caregainwin Church]
-
- [Picture: No. 25. South Side of the Clocty at Caregainwen Church]
-
- [Picture: No. 26. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church]
-
- [Picture: No. 27. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church]
-
- [Picture: No. 28. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church]
-
-
-
-(fol. 69_a_) MONDAY, DECR. 6
-
-
- [Picture: No. 29. [Arch in Aberffraw Church.]]
-
-We found there was so much to be seen in the neighbourhood of Aberffraw
-that we determined on prolonging our stay for another day at our present
-station. About nine attended by the same person who went with us
-yesterday we walked to the parish church which outwardly resembles other
-Welsh buildings of the kind but on entering we observed a neat turned
-Saxon arch to the west end underneath the clochti an evident token that
-this part of the building was of a more ancient date and most likely
-erected during the times the Saxons held the Island which was for above a
-century. Aberffraw afterwards became the residence of the North Welsh
-princes and we may suppose it was a place of the greatest consequence in
-the Island though now it scarcely deserves the title of a village.
-
- [Picture: No. 31. Interior of Llangwyfan Church]
-
-(fol. 73) Not far from the church they point out a field where the
-palace of Llewelyn stood but no traces remain the ground having been
-cleared quite to the foundation. Proceeding in a northwesterly direction
-for a mile and a half we came to the little church of Llangwyfan. This
-is erected on a rocky peninsula jutting out into the sea and is an Island
-at high water so that not unfrequently the congregation are interrupted
-in their devotion by the rapid approach of the waves. From its exposed
-situation to the weather and from the spray of the sea beating against
-its walls the stones in parts are fretted like a honeycomb which gives it
-a most venerable appearance though from the shape of the windows at the
-east end I should not suppose it was above four centuries standing.
-Whilst I was sketching the font and part of the interior Russell copied a
-curious (fol. 73_a_) epitaph to the memory of Mr. Woode written about the
-year sixteen hundred two an age remarkable for its false wit and punning
-indeed must have been very prevalent to have found its way to so remote a
-quarter as this. Inscribed on a brass plate let into a stone slab is the
-following epitaph:
-
- Felix ter felix marmor quia nobile lignum
- Quo caret infelix insula marmor habes
- Owen et patriae vivens fuit utile lignum
- Et lignum vitae post sua fata Deo
- Filius ista meo posui monumenta parenti
- Sic precor et tecum nomen [et] Owen idem
- In obitum Oweni Woode armigeri qui
- Obiit 6 die April A° Dni 1602 Ætat 70.
-
- [Picture: No. 32]
-
-(fol. 76) In our way back we collected some beautiful specimens of sea
-weed and a few shells and passing by a large mansion {44a} house the
-former habitation of this Mr. Woode but now rented of Mr. Meyricke by a
-farmer we walked a mile farther to Mynnedd {44b} Cnwc having understood
-there was a cromlech to be seen there.
-
- [Picture: No. 33. Remains of a Carnedd at Mynydd-y-Cnwc]
-
-Mŷnnedd Cnwc is a promontory running two or three hundred yards into the
-sea and forming the northern boundary of a small bay called Port Tre
-Castel to the south of which on a semicircular rock about fifty yards
-over jutting into the bay we observed a deep trench and mound cut towards
-the land side and a square earth work of smaller dimensions a little
-beyond this doubtless was the work of invaders on their first landing.
-Instead of a cromlech at Mŷnnedd Cnwc we found the vestiges of a large
-carnedd many of the flat stones of the cist faen or chamber are still
-remaining but the small ones have been almost all removed to build a wall
-close at hand. (fol. 77_a_) On another fork of the peninsula about an
-hundred yards distant we observed the traces of another carnedd of much
-smaller dimensions. From the nature of their situation, the bay, the
-earth work &c. it is not improbable to suppose that an engagement here
-took place with the natives wherein some principal officers were slain
-and interred on the spot. A natural cavern in the rock penetrates for
-some distance in the peninsula but it being high tide we could not
-satisfy our curiosity in examining it. The country people have a strange
-idea of spirits haunting these carnedds and frequently see lights (Ignis
-fatuus) hovering round the point. They moreover report that an iron boot
-was dug up not long ago full of money but on further enquiry the money
-vanished and so did the boot too. By the description of a man who had
-seen it I believe it was no other than a gambado belonging to Mr. Woode
-or some of his descendants.
-
- [Picture: No. 34. Caer Cromlech in the Parish of Llanfaelog]
-
-(fol. 80) Hence continuing our walk to the northward we passed through
-the parish of Llanfaelog and about half a mile beyond the church came to
-a very perfect cromlech. {46} The cap stone is rather of an oblong shape
-and measured sixteen feet long, six wide, and three thick. It only
-rested upon three supporters each about three feet high although there
-were four placed in the ground. Near the cromlech were lying two large
-stones, the one seventeen feet long and three thick. Having made two
-drawings on the spot we were invited by a country woman to take some
-refreshment at her house, and whilst she went forward to prepare for our
-reception we walked about half a mile further towards the river Crighill
-{47a} to see another cromlech. {47b} This stood on low ground quite in a
-swamp the cap stone like that at Maen Llhwyd has been thrown down and its
-supporters lie near it. Also many other stones from three to five feet
-long to the number of thirty lie (fol. 80_a_) scattered in all directions
-around it. Having hastily sketched this remain we followed the direction
-of a person who persuaded us there were some very ancient letters on a
-stone placed in a wall about an hundred yards distant. Above a quarter
-of an hour was employed to no purpose in the search. At length assisted
-by some men who came from a neighbouring field whose zeal in the business
-was augmented by the promise of a shilling we discovered the valuable
-antique which had been employed as a land mark and traced the letters o.
-w. one thousand six hundred and sixty four very legibly on the surface.
-
- [Picture: No. 36. Demolished Cromlech near the River Crighyll]
-
-How many hundreds would have laughed at the distress of the young
-antiquarians on this occasion but as the more learned of that venerable
-society are continually exposed to similar or greater mistakes we must
-find shelter from the shafts of ridicule under the shade of (fol. 82)
-their protecting wings. At the farm house we found some white bread and
-cheese and butter milk placed on a clean cloth waiting our arrival and
-returning many thanks to our kind entertainer who was as pretty as she
-was obliging we took our leave and proceeded towards a barn in the
-neighbourhood where with the assistance of a lanthorn I traced the
-characters NALIS deeply cut in a stone now serving as the lintern to a
-small window but said to have been taken from a field near the spot. I
-think these characters are Roman as the style of the L cut obliquely much
-resembles what I have noticed on some inscriptions in the north of
-England made a short time before the Romans quitted the island. Returned
-to Aberffraw across a large warren apparently well stocked with rabbits.
-They are sold in these parts for fourpence apiece, fowls are also equally
-cheap, so that with the assistance of fish the inhabitants can fare very
-luxuriantly without butcher’s meat. A farmer overtook (fol. 82_a_) and
-accompanied us to Aberffraw. In the course of conversation he said it
-was this day seventeen years being the Carnarvon fair on which the
-passage boat was lost and eighty people perished in the Menai most of
-whom were inhabitants of the island by which sad catastrophy nearly every
-family had to lament the loss of some relative.
-
-In the evening we received a visit from Mr. Rowlands curate of Aberffraw,
-on enquiring of him what was become of the various coins which had been
-dug up in these parts of the island he said that most of them had been
-taken to Mr. Meyricke who he was sure would be very happy in shewing them
-to us, but we were so apprehensive of being detained by the weather at
-this time of the year that we could not venture to spend the following
-day at Aberffraw though the civility and attention we experienced from
-our hostess would have been a strong inducement at a more favourable
-season.
-
-
-
-(fol. 83) TUESDAY, DECR. 7
-
-
-Having paid a very reasonable bill at Aberffraw we quitted it this
-morning about ten and pursued the same track we had done yesterday for
-about three miles when crossing the Crighyll and traversing a bleak heath
-rendered still more unpleasant by heavy storms of wind and rain we
-arrived at Llanfihangle yn nhewlyn {49} expecting to find some ancient
-remains in this parish. We only saw some large loose stones upon the
-summit of the rocks which seem to have little claim to the interference
-of the Druids to place them in their present position. On enquiring at a
-cottage near this spot whether there were any carnedds or chromlechs to
-be seen we exposed ourselves to the ridicule of two old women who enjoyed
-a hearty laugh at our walking in the rain to hunt after stones.
-
- [Picture: No. 37. Praesaddfed Cromleche]
-
- [Picture: No. 39. Praesaddfed Cromleche]
-
-Skirting two large pools of water we pursued our way to Bodedern situated
-on the turnpike road about eight miles from Holyhead. This place did not
-prepossess us much in its favour as it seemed to promise but sorry
-accommodations (fol. 83_a_). However we were obliged to put up with them
-unless we made up our minds to reach Holyhead which would have thrown us
-nearly a day backward in our march. Having ordered the best the house
-could afford for dinner we walked nearly a mile along the turnpike road
-in the direction of Gwindy {50a} when turning off into a field to the
-left we approached one of the finest and most finished cromlechs {50b} we
-have yet seen in the island the cap stone measuring four yards and a half
-long four yards wide and two yards thick {50c} its three supporters each
-about a yard and a half high. Indeed there is a fourth nearly of the
-same height but it does not touch the stone above. Under this cromlech
-we were informed a whole family who had been ejected from their
-habitation sought shelter during the last winter. There was another
-cromlech close at hand but the cap stone had been forced down and rests
-in a slanting direction against the supporters the top stone of this
-measured three yards long and two yards and (fol. 87) a half wide and its
-supporters nearly two yards high. An old mansion near the spot was we
-understand the residence of Miss Buckley the lady who married King master
-of the ceremonies at Bath. The premises seem to be very much out of
-repair having been untenanted for some time. Returned about four to our
-homely dinner of bacon and greens. In the evening after retracing my
-sketches I took a copy of a plan that was in the room of the intended
-bridge over the Menai. This if it ever is put into execution will be a
-stupendous work as it will be nearly half a mile long and built pretty
-strong to resist the tides. On the twenty-ninth of April 1785 a meeting
-was first held for the purpose of consulting about it at St. Alban’s
-tavern when the following resolutions passed: first, that the erecting a
-carriage bridge over the streights of the Menai will be of great public
-utility—second—that it appears from the reports and concurrent opinions
-of several able engineers that the erecting a timber bridge upon piles
-with three swivel bridges will not be detrimental (fol. 87_a_) to the
-navigation of the said streights and therefore we approve of a bridge
-being erected on that plan, third, that we will support the application
-made to parliament for an act for building a bridge across the said
-streights agreeable to the above plan. N. Bailey, chairman. Afterwards
-follow the signature of the noblemen and gentlemen. Here we see the
-first intention was to have constructed one of wood with three swivel
-bridges for the convenience of vessels passing to and fro. Now according
-to the present plan it is to be of stone with three center arches
-sufficiently wide and high to permit a ship to pass with all her sails
-set. God knows whether this plan will ever be brought to perfection but
-in this mechanical age we can scarcely wonder at the projection of any
-enterprize however vast or difficult. If we were not pleased with our
-fare much less were we with our sleeping apartments at this place the
-upper story was (fol. 89) without ceilings running clear up to the roof
-being divided into stalls rather than chambers by deal boards wherein are
-placed the different beds for the family and strangers. We slept in
-separate beds it is true, but every word that was said, nor ought that
-was done could pass unheard for all was as manifest to the ear at least
-as though we had been in the same dormontory. I was unfortunately
-situated, in having some snorers close to my bed head, and the deal not
-being above half an inch thick I may literally say they were close at my
-ear. Different kinds of music resounded from different parts of the
-room. I bore all this harmonious combination of sounds with the
-philosophy of a stoic till the clock struck three, when my next neighbour
-played so violently on the double bass I lost all patience and began
-knocking with equal violence on the partition between us. This not only
-awoke him but every part of the house was soon in motion and the host got
-up grumbling and swearing and called the people about him to go and (fol.
-89_a_) see who it was who knocked at the door for they imagined it was
-some traveller who wished to gain admittance. In the course of an hour
-when the tumult was subsided I dropped asleep and was roused by our guide
-whom I had ordered to call me at half past six.
-
-
-
-WEDNESDAY, DECR. 8
-
-
-We were not sorry to leave this place as soon as it was light paying much
-higher for our miserable entertainment than we had done at any place in
-the island. First directed our steps along the turnpike to Llandrûgan,
-{53} situated near Gwindy the halfway house between Beaumaris and
-Holyhead our host having given us to understand there was a very ancient
-stone near the church which many travellers went to look at but few could
-read the inscription. He himself among the rest although he said he was
-a good schollar having been clerk of Bodedern many years could (fol. 90)
-make nothing of it. On arriving at the spot we found a flat tomb stone
-to the right of the entrance door bearing the following lines legibly cut
-on its surface:
-
- Reader in me doe thou thyself behold
- Wilome full hie but now full low in mould
- Bodychens heyr I was my name was John
- The second who that sirname fixt upon
- Credit nor wealth nor friends I did not lacke
- Heare dead and dust loe all doe me forsake
- The day draws on when God me hence shall raise
- Amongst his chosen his great name to praise.
-
-On the side nearest the church door:
-
- Obiit apud Bodechen decimo die Junii incarnationis milessimo sexto
- centessimo tricessimo nono aetatis suae septuagesimo.
-
-On the opposite side:
-
- Moestissima uxor Margaretta monumentum hoc delectessimo conjugi piae
- memoriae amoris ergo posuit vicessimo die Martii anno milessimo
- sexgentessimo quadragessimo.
-
-Though we copied the inscription being on the spot we did not think it
-deserving a digression of three miles to read especially as we had so
-much to perform before night.
-
- [Picture: No. 41. Stone in Llantrisant Parish]
-
-Hence we hastened forward to Llantrisant not without some apprehension in
-being equally deceived in an ancient inscription we learnt was to be seen
-there cut on the stone {54} of a gateway. On enquiring at a farm house
-we found it had been taken up from the gate and placed in a kind of shed
-as a block to chop sticks on. This intelligence conveyed through our
-interpreter did not quiet our fears for the fate of the inscription,
-however towards the place we went and fortunately found the stone lying
-with the inscription downwards (fol. 92). On the edge was engraved Aroe
-lapidibus in the manner I have shewn in my sketch. Having with the
-assistance of four stout fellows turned the stone I traced as nearly as I
-could the characters as they appear in my drawing. The stone was of a
-lozenge form about six feet high and three wide, and I conjecture was
-first of all employed by the Romans as a direction across the country, as
-the words Aroe lapidibus to the stones of Aroe seem to imply. The second
-inscription was probably cut some centuries after in monkish times as
-appears by the words moribus disciplinae et sapientiae coming together in
-the conclusion of the sentence. Indeed many of the upright pillars we
-have met with in the island I imagine were intended as directions or
-boundaries and not at all connected with druidical worship as Mr.
-Rowlands seems to suppose. The day by this time being far advanced we
-exerted ourselves as much as the country would (fol. 92_a_) allow to gain
-Llanbabo church four miles distant in sufficient time to copy an ancient
-stone dug up here in the reign of Charles the second bearing the effigies
-of Pabo post Prid or Prince Pabo the support of Britain who flourished
-about the year four hundred sixty and who is said to have built and to
-have been buried in this church. His effigies are designed on a flat
-stone resembling free stone, the figure crowned with a sceptre in its
-right hand and a close garment down to its feet. On the edge of the
-stone these characters are cut hic jacet Pabo post Prid the remainder is
-very much defaced but I should read it qui edificavit hanc ecclesiam.
-
-For my own part I cannot but think that the whole of this is some ages
-later than Pabo’s time as both the sculpture and the formation of the
-letters are those of the thirteenth or fourteenth century. We know that
-in Roman catholic countries it is very common for the priests to preserve
-(fol. 95) the effigies of their founders and benefactors in their
-churches and monasteries and might not this have been presented to the
-church by some rich family in the neighbourhood by way of acquiring the
-favour of the sainted patron. The letters here noticed very much
-resemble those I have copied from the monument in Bettws y Coed church in
-Carnarvonshire. I took as perfect a drawing as my time would allow and
-afterwards just sketched the entrance door and three uncooth and at
-present whitewashed visages let into the stone above and on each side of
-it. These are of such rude workmanship that I should rather attribute
-them to the time of Pabo than the subject we have just considered. A
-kind of waving line over the arch of the door as described in my sketch
-is I conjecture no less antique. The church itself differs in no other
-respect from the generality of Welsh buildings, and the parish is so
-scattered that not above two houses are to be seen in any direction.
-
- [Picture: No. 45. Stones in Llanfechell Parish]
-
-From hence to Llanfechell we experienced a dirty swampy and fatiguing
-walk (fol. 95_a_) of four miles and the termination of it was rendered
-still more unfortunate as we found the public house so indifferent we
-could not think of spending the night there accordingly we hastened by
-the light of the moon to examine some stones and a cromlech about half a
-mile beyond leaving our interpreter who seemed to be pretty well tired of
-antique hunting to eat his dinner, in the interim the host of the public
-house officiating in his stead. Under his guidance we first visited
-three upright stones standing on a rising ground placed three paces
-asunder forming an exact triangle. They were about seven feet high and
-two feet and a half wide. These I make no doubt were intended as a
-direction to travellers as they might be seen from every rising hillock
-in the neighbourhood and also from the coast, we could not learn that
-they were called by any particular name if it had sounded anything like
-aroe it would have thrown some light upon the inscription in Llantrisant
-parish.
-
-From hence passing by an old (fol. 98) mansion named cromlech now
-tenanted by a farmer we came to the spot where many large stones were
-lying scattered promiscuously on the ground and one nearly square
-measuring nine feet across leaning against some uprights about six feet
-high. From the appearance of this place I should rather imagine that it
-had been the interior or cistfaen of a carnedd and this opinion seems
-somewhat confirmed by the accounts of the common people who remember
-great quantities of stone having been removed to form a wall. Returning
-to the public house we made a meal on bread and cheese and afterwards
-procuring the key of the church we examined its interior. The font is
-square having a double Saxon arch rudely carved on each face. Over the
-communion table is a Latin inscription to Mr. Humphreys Rector of the
-parish which we transcribed:
-
- Cineribus sacrum
- H. S. E.
- (fol. 98_a_) ROBERTUS HUMPHREYS M.A.
- vir eruditus perquam et modestus
- Rei medicae
- praesertim botanicae apprime gnarus
- Praxique claruit
- hujus ecclesiae per tria et amplius lustra
- Extitit Rector
- obiit XIII id Junii anno MDCCIX
- Ætatis suae LVIII
-
- Dnus dnus Ricardus Nicom. Bulkeley pro digno qui haberet defuncto
- hoc positum voluit
-
- [Picture: Llanfechell Church; Font, Llanfechell Church]
-
-A long five miles walk brought us to Amlwch where with some little
-difficulty (the hostess not admiring our pedestrian appearance) we gained
-admittance, a good supper and comfortable sleeping appartments which
-indeed were not a little refreshing after (fol. 101) the labours of the
-day and the adventures of the preceeding night.
-
-
-
-THURSDAY, DECR. 9
-
-
-Amlwch is a long straggling place and may contain from four to five
-thousand inhabitants though before the working of the Parys mines there
-were not an hundred tenements in the parish. Besides two or three good
-houses a church has been lately erected by the copper company on a neat
-substantial plan and a quay formed near the smelting houses where ships
-of two or three hundred tons burthen may take in their lading. These we
-passed in our way to Llanelian church this morning which we had been
-directed to examine as one of the most curious structures in the island.
-This church differs from most others in North Wales in having a kind of
-spire rising from a square tower. I cannot say that this edition is very
-elegant it being coated all the way up with small slate. The body of the
-church is ornamented with battlements, pinnacles, and (fol. 101_a_)
-buttresses in the style of our parish churches built about the time of
-Henry the seventh. Having procured the key we found the interior still
-retaining its catholic collection of saints and apostles, and the seats,
-chancel, and communion-table, were decorated with a profusion of carving
-in oak. On the latter on a kind of scroll we read non nobis Domine non
-nobis sed nomine tuo. Beneath the arches which supported the roof of the
-building were six grotesque little figures, playing on the bagpipe,
-pibcorn, and other instruments, their appearance is rendered still more
-ridiculous by their being painted in black coats, yellow waistcoats, and
-white wigs. In a small chapel attached to the south east end of the
-church (which is said to have been the original edifice founded by Saint
-Elian) there is a kind of semicircular chest or cabinet made of oak into
-which whoever can enter and turn himself round is sure in the opinion of
-the vulgar to live out the year but if he fails it will (fol. 102) prove
-fatal to him. People from all parts come at stated periods to try their
-destiny in this absurd way. There is also an old chest well secured by
-bolts bars and nails in another part of the church having a small slit in
-the lid through which the country people are said to drop a piece of
-money uttering their maledictions against their enemies the black
-gentleman is thus feed to work evil against the offender, this
-uncharitable and unchristian custom if true seems almost too bad even for
-monkish times much worse to be continued now. Having viewed these relics
-of superstition we ascended by a circular tower to the roof [of] the
-church which is very nicely leaded. On enquiring afterwards of a Welsh
-clergyman why Llanelian was so much better taken care of than other
-parish churches I found that some lands had been appropriated by one of
-the Welsh princes centuries ago by way of expiation for his sins to keep
-it in constant repair, this accounts for its having a steeple, being
-leaded, &c. &c.
-
- [Picture: No. 46. Llanelian Church]
-
-After sketching the building we returned (fol. 102_a_) to Amlwch, on our
-way thither obtained a very clear view of the Isle of Man lying only
-sixteen leagues to the north of this coast. Could we have insured a
-week’s fine weather we should not have hesitated an instant including
-that island in our circuit as I have long wished to satisfy myself
-respecting some ancient inscriptions at Pielstown. I understand there is
-almost daily communication through the herring boats which come here to
-dispose of their cargoes. Having taken a slight repast at Amlwch we
-proceeded to the Parys mountain which of late years has enriched not only
-many individuals but the nation at large. It lies about a mile south of
-the town and though denominated a mountain, in Carnarvonshire at least
-would be deemed a very inconsiderable hillock. The approach to it is
-dreary in the extreme for the sulphurious steams issuing from the copper
-kilns have destroyed every germ of vegetation in the neighbourhood. When
-we had gained (fol. 103) the higher ground the uninteresting and gloomy
-prospect we had hitherto observed was at once converted into the most
-lively and active scene. Hundreds of men, women, and children, appeared
-busily occupied in the different branches of this vast concern and the
-bustle of the metropolis prevailed amidst the dreary recesses of the
-Druids. The produce of the mountain belongs to two different companies
-one called the Parys Mine shared between Lord Uxbridge, Mr. Hughes, and
-Mr. Williams. The other, the Mona mine I believe is Lord Uxbridge’s
-alone.
-
-Our servant having delivered a message from the people of the inn to one
-of the overseers of the Parys mine, he accompanied us over the works. A
-stranger not acquainted with mining concerns cannot do better than take
-his first lesson at this place. There being no necessity of descending
-into subterrianean abodes to grope out for information by candle light,
-incommoded by damp, dirt, and foul vapours, for all is here worked open
-to the day and by taking his station in one (fol. 103_a_) point he can
-command a view of the whole proceedings from the beginning to the end and
-receive every satisfactory explanation almost without moving from the
-spot. We first were conducted to some wooden stages erected on the edge
-of the bason if I may so employ that term to an immense excavation of an
-oval form about two hundred yards long, half so much in width and eighty
-in depth which has been hollowed out in the course of twenty years, these
-wooden stages are each supplied with a windlass for the purpose of
-drawing up the ore from the bottom. On looking down from hence to the
-chasm beneath, we saw the rock rich with ore of a light gold colour which
-the miners were busily employed in boring, blasting, breaking with sledge
-hammers, wheeling the fragments to appointed places beneath the stages
-filling the baskets which were hauled up as before mentioned by the
-windlass. There might be from twelve to fourteen stages erected for this
-purpose in different (fol. 104) parts of the mine.
-
-As soon as the commodity is landed it is delivered to a number of women
-and children to be broken into smaller pieces. The good ore is then
-separated from that of an inferior sort and carried to kilns to be baked.
-The sulphur forms in what is called flour brimstone by the chymists on
-the top of the oven. This is afterwards collected, melted in large
-cauldrons and formed into round moulds for sale.
-
-We understood that the better kind of ore was sent to Neath and other
-places, and the inferior to the smelting houses at Amlwch. In walking
-round the premises we crossed a small stream running into some square
-reservoirs, this water was so impregnated with copper that merely the
-dipping a key in for two or three seconds rendered it entirely the colour
-of that metal. The square reservoirs above mentioned was stored with all
-the old iron that could be collected which are turned monthly the coperas
-on them sinking in a kind (fol. 104_a_) of red slime to the bottom.
-
-At stated times the pits are emptied and the produce when hardened
-becomes equally valuable to the richest ore in the mines. We may be sure
-that every drop of this precious stream is turned to the best account
-possible indeed so productive is it that they compute it to be worth
-above three halfpence a quart. On entering the compting house one of the
-clerks sitting there obligingly gratified us with the sight of a number
-of drawers full of the most beautiful specimens of minerals I ever saw
-and moreover requested us to take our choice of what we most admired. We
-were constrained to be very moderate on account of the weight of the
-article but if we could have procured a ready carriage I fancy we should
-have been rather more greedy in our selection. At it was we took nearly
-five pounds’ weight of the following minerals and mixtures (fol. 105):
-
- First. Mundig containing sulphur and iron.
-
- 2. Iron incrusted with lead chrystals.
-
- 3. Copper ore.
-
- 4. Copper ore after roasting.
-
- 5. Copper taken from the reservoir of old iron.
-
- 6. Quartz containing copper ore.
-
- 7. Zink commonly called black Jack incorporated with copper rock
- holding a small quantity of lead.
-
- 8. Quartz with a little of the Zink and chrystals.
-
- 9. Pure copper.
-
- 10. Blue stone issuing from the copper rocks.
-
- 11. Sulphur.
-
- 12. Copper coming from the old iron after it is dried.
-
-Hence we just looked into the assay house but could not see the process
-the man having concluded work we also viewed the kilns and the coppers
-where the sulphur is melted. Having taken a very competent survey and
-complimented our obliging and intelligent conductor for his trouble in
-the best manner we were able, we took a long walk for nearly five miles
-to the west of Parys mountain towards Llanfechell where we heard there
-was (fol. 105_a_) a prodigious large stone with writing under it to be
-seen. Our conductor who was a young man of Amlwch speaking pretty good
-English entertained us the whole way by a variety of ghost stories and
-preternatural events the common talk of the neighbourhood. The stone we
-were going to see was so big that it would sink the largest ship that
-came to Amlwch. That it stood in a valley by itself resting on a flat
-stone whereon a good many characters were engraved but nobody was able to
-make them out but should some learned person have that good fortune the
-stone would immediately move off of itself and there would be a pot of
-gold to reward him for his schollarship. That a countryman living hard
-by had seen the treasure three following nights in his dreams and had
-spent some time in digging for it but all to no purpose for it was not
-intended for him. On telling our guide he should equally (fol. 107)
-share whatever we discovered it quickened our march astonishingly and I
-really believe we were not above an hour in reaching the stone
-notwithstanding the many impediments which crossed our way. On which we
-passed an upright stone about seven feet high in the middle of a field
-resembling some of those we before noticed as boundaries. Here exclaimed
-Sancho a man also found a considerable treasure, although amused by his
-simplicity it in some measure weakened the interest we had taken in the
-object of our walk and we felt the less disappointed at finding we had
-taken our ramble in vain when we arrived at the spot. For a candle being
-procured at the treasure dreamer’s cottage we discovered that what they
-took for letters were nothing but a few natural crevices in the rock and
-that the stone itself though of some magnitude possessed no more claim to
-notice than any other detached fragment lying by the road side. (fol.
-107_a_) However disappointed we concealed our chagrin and even suffered
-our conductor to take us half a mile out of the way to see an immense
-stone which he said was called Praes Maen on account of a brass pot being
-placed near it and that when the sun shone whoever could trace the shadow
-at a particular time of the day would discover a great treasure in a
-brass vessel. It was moonlight when we arrived at this stone which
-certainly is more worthy of notice than the one we had quitted. It is
-standing upright in the midst of a field and measures thirteen feet high
-and fourteen and fifteen in circumference allowing four or five feet
-under ground, it must have been a very heavy body and cost some trouble
-to have erected it in its present position. Approaching nearer to Amlwch
-we observed our quondam loquacious compation become very silent, and just
-as we had passed an old wall about half a mile (fol. 108) from the town
-he told us with evident marks of trepidation that there was a ghost
-sitting there every night, on asking him if he had ever seen it he said
-no but that many of his friends had, it was in the shape of a woman and
-once had attempted to pull a farmer’s wife off her horse but was
-prevented by the arrival of a second person when it vanished. That on
-Christmas Eve the inhabitants of Amlwch used to come to the spot in order
-to see how many lights would pass by and as many did so many persons as
-travelled that road would die within the twelvemonth.
-
- [Picture: No. 48. Ffedoged-y-Gowres]
-
-I just mention these ridiculous stories to show that superstition still
-reigns here and this superstition has perhaps been the guardian to many
-of the druidical remains we noticed in the island. It was past six when
-we returned to the inn where we were welcomed by a most excellent repast.
-
-
-
-FRIDAY, DECR. 10
-
-
-We could not leave the inn so soon as we intended on account (fol.
-108_a_) of our boots not being ready so bad is the workmanship of the
-shoemakers in Wales that the repairs of one day were destroyed by the
-exertions of the next, and it was a business almost as regular as eating
-our dinner when we arrived at the inn to send our boots to get mended.
-Here I hope we have had them secured effectually as we ordered them to be
-studded with nails according to the fashion of the country. Although on
-our arrival we scarcely gained admittance at the inn as pedestrians yet
-on our departure we had to pay the bill calculated for equestrians of the
-first order so much had our consequence been raised by the loquacity of
-our attendant in the kitchen.
-
-This heavy blow on our finances with the loss we had sustained at
-Llanfechell caused a calculation to be made which promised only three
-days’ supply supposing our concerns should fall into the hands of so
-experienced a scribe as the landlady at Amlwch (fol. 109). About eleven
-we were clear of the inn and took the road across the fields to the small
-church of Bodewryd where we understood were some remains of the Wynne
-family a branch of which family was settled at a large mansion now a farm
-near the spot. The church door being open we found the interior occupied
-by a grey headed pedagogue and his schollars. On the pulpit were carved
-the arms of the Wynne’s and the seats and communion table exhibited the
-same kind of ornaments cut in oak before noticed at Llanelian. This
-living was augmented by Queen Anne’s bounty and further donations as
-appears engraven on a brass tablet affixed to the north side of the
-altar:
-
- M. S.
- Annae Reginae serenissimae
- cujus munificentia sine exemplo maximae
- inter innumeras alias per magnam
- (fol. 109_a_) Britanniam late sparsas
- Tenuissima haec de Bodewryd ecclesia
- cujus stipendium annuum xx solidos ante non exedebat
- libris ducentis donata est
- promovente interim pietatem hanc
- et totidem libras de proprio conferente
- per ultimum testamentum suum
- Dat. 6to Septembris A.D. 1720
- Roberto Wynne A.M. rectori de Llantrisant
- Filio Johannis Wynne de Bodewryd Arm.
-
- Sexto et natu maximo
- quibus pecuniis aliquantulum auctis
- Tenementa sequentia coempta
- et in usum ecclesiae prædictae
- In perpetuum stabilita sunt
- (fol. 110) IIIº Nonas Decembris 1723
- viz. Tre Evan, Clidog, Hen Aclwyd &c. &c.
- Reditusque annuus 40 solidorum
- De Tre Anghared in Bodedern
- Com. Anglesea.
-
- In tantae munificentiae memoriam
- Tabula haec votiva suspensa est. anno 1727.
-
-On the opposite side of the communion table on a similar tablet is
-engraved the pedigree of this branch of the Wynne’s which is as follows:
-
- In hac Ecclesia jacent
-
- 1. Rees (ap Llewellwyn, ap Griffith, ap Howell, ap Evan, ap Ednyfed
- ap Howell, ap Griffith, ap Meyricke, ap Trahairn, ap Gwerydd ap Rees
- Goch) uxorem habuit Agnes vch Nicholas ap Ellis Archidiaconi Monensis
- filiam obiit anno Dni 1500.
-
- (fol. 110_a_)
-
- 2. David ap Rees de Bodewryd Armiger obiit 27º Julii anno Dni 1551
- uxorem habuit Anghared filiam et heredem de Plâs y Brian in parochia
- de Llanbeder.
-
- 3. Hugo Gwyn ap D.D. obiit 1562 uxorem habuit Elenam Conway de Bryn
- Eyrinin Com. Carnaru.
-
- 4. Edwardus ap H Gwyn sepultus fuit primo die Martii 1596 uxorem
- duxit Elizabetham Sion ap Rees Bodychen.
-
- 5. Johannes Wyn Edd obiit 1614 uxorem habuit Grace vch Sion Griffith
- de Llanddyfran.
-
- 6. Edwardus Wyn obiit 1637 uxorem habuit Margaretam Puleston de
- Llwyn y Knottie in com. Flint.
-
- 7. Johannes Wyn obiit Jan. 30, 1669 uxorem duxit, Elenam filiam et
- cohaeredem J. Lewis de Chwaen Wen arm sepultus est cum uxore filioque
- natu maximo Johanne L L B in ecclesiae parochiali de Llantrissant de
- quo siquis (fol. 111) ultra desideret monumentum patri suo B—M
- positum impensis Roberto Wyn A.M. ejusdem ecclesiae Rectoris
- dignissimi consulat.
-
-Having finished our observations and preparing to leave the church we
-were not a little surprized by a request made by the schoolmaster for
-something to drink our healths, though I complied with his request I at
-the same time conveyed a kind of hint that an instructor should not be
-mercinary. However he pocketed the reproof with the money and I cannot
-say I discerned anything of that hectic flush come across his cheek
-described by Sterne in his story of the poor Monk.
-
-Continuing from hence and passing by the magic stone which had drawn us
-so much out of our way the preceeding night we called at the treasure
-dreamer’s cottage as he had promised to shew us an inscription which
-(fol. 111_a_) he knew to be worthy of notice as a clergyman of
-Llanerchymedd had been to copy it. He was from home but his wife
-catching up her half grown child in her arms walked before us at such a
-rate we could scarcely keep up with her to the field where it stood. We
-here found some characters and just as I was preparing to take the
-impression of them with putty so violent and cold a storm of sleet and
-rain came on that we were forced to take shelter at a neighbouring farm.
-The farm house though of considerable extent was open all the way up to
-the roof the beds, kitchen, dairy, &c. being all contiguous to each
-other. This we found on enquiry was the common custom of the country.
-The weather holding up a little we returned to the spot, in the interval
-having learnt that the stone had some time since been broken in two in
-order to make a gate post of the lower part, we procured an (fol. 113)
-iron crow and with the assistance of two stout lads from the farm turned
-it over, it measures about four feet in length but retains no appearance
-of characters on its surface though by measuring its width we clearly
-discovered that it must formerly have been united to the upper part which
-is now fixed in the ground about an hundred yards distant. On returning
-thither I took a very exact copy. The name of the stone is Maen Hîr
-Llanol with is interpreted the large stone with letters and when entire
-it must have been a conspicuous object from most parts of the island as
-it stands on very high ground.
-
-The weather continuing cold and disagreeable we hastened our march to
-Llanerchymedd our intended station for the night. Although the distance
-to this place in a direct line is not above four miles and its situation
-clearly discerned from Maen Hîr Llanol yet on account of the bogs and
-(fol. 113_a_) overflowing of the river we were obliged to make a circuit
-of nearly twice that space round by Llanbabo. In our way passed a farm
-called Boddeiniol where we stopped to enquire for some druidical remains
-mentioned in Mr. Bingley’s list as still visible, but the farmer who is
-apparently near eighty years old said he had never had heard of anything
-of the kind since he had lived there. But some time back in cleaning a
-piece of rough ground in one of his fields he discovered four burying
-places as he took them to be the sides formed of flat stones set upright
-in the ground and covered by others of the same irregular shape. Some of
-the stones he shewed us lying against a fence but none of them appeared
-to be above two feet and a half high. Crossed the river Trepont {71} a
-little below Llanbabo. This river is styled the largest in Anglesea
-although I am sure one might easily leap over the widest part the channel
-(fol. 114) when not flooded being not above twelve or fourteen feet
-across. Arrived at Llanerchymedd a little before four, enquiring of the
-innkeeper for an ancient stone with an inscription near the town he
-accompanied us to the house of a clergyman who he said was very curious
-in these particulars and would furnish us with every information on the
-subject. Our reception was very pleasing but we had been misinformed in
-regard to the object of our enquiries there being no other antiques in
-the neighbourhood besides Maen Hîr Llanol and the stone at Llantrisant
-about four miles distant. In the evening Mr. Richards the above
-mentioned gentlemen called upon us at the inn and during our conversation
-gave some interesting particulars of druidical remains in Bodafon
-mountain which we purpose visiting in his company tomorrow. This
-gentleman had a very perfect coin of Diocletian of which I took an
-impression in sealing wax (fol. 114_a_) in order to make a fac simile of
-the coin in isinglass on my return—if we cannot procure originals we must
-be content with copies. Having noted down the occurrences of the day we
-retired to bed desiring to be called very early in order to get breakfast
-over by seven the time we had agreed to set out.
-
- [Picture: No. 49. Maen Hir Llanol]
-
-
-
-SATURDAY, DECR. 11
-
-
- [Picture: No. 50. [Thief Stone.]]
-
-A little before seven called at Mr. Richards’s house whom we found
-waiting at the door ready to accompany us. He mounted his horse and we
-pursued the Beaumaris turnpike for half {72a} a mile when we turned to
-the left to look at a stone called Lleidr {72b} y Frydog or the thief
-stone. This is a rough stone about six feet high having a kind of hump
-or projection near the top. The country people report that a thief who
-had stolen some books from a neighbouring church was in this place turned
-into stone with the sack containing his theft laying over his shoulder.
-About a quarter of a mile further Mr. Richards pointed to the spot where
-formerly stood the nunnery of Clorach or St. Claire and not far from it
-by the road side we saw two wells whose waters were enclosed in a square
-reservoir of stone work. Tradition says that the two saints Seriol and
-Cybi (the former having a cell at Priestholme the latter at Holyhead
-where he founded a collegiate church) used to hold their weekly meetings
-at these springs to consult on religious matters, and from the
-circumstance of Seriol’s travelling westward in the morning and eastward
-in the evening, and Cybi on the contrary always facing the sun they were
-denominated
-
- Seriol wyn a Chyby felyn.
- Seriol the fair and Cybi the tawney.
-
- [Picture: No. 50a. Cromlech on Bodafon Mountain]
-
- [Picture: No. 51. Bodafon Hills]
-
-When arrived at Bodafon hills a ridge of rocky ground (fol. 117_a_)
-extending nearly two miles east and west Mr. Richards gave his horse to
-our attendant and accompanied us to a cromlech lying at the side of the
-hill denominated cromlech Lldercoch {73} nearly square the upper stone
-being about eleven feet across supported by four or five small uprights
-not above a foot and a half from the surface. This is by no means so
-perfect as some we have before noticed. Had not Mr. Richards been
-positive of the fact I should have doubted whether it had been designed
-for one. Arrived nearly at the summit of the hill we entered a cottage
-inhabited by a countryman whose grandfather and great grandfather resided
-there before him. Under the direction of this person we climbed to the
-top of the hill to look at a Carnedd. Most of the loose stones have been
-removed but some of the flat ones which composed the cistfaen are still
-on the spot, another more perfect lies about an hundred (fol. 118) yards
-to the eastward of this, a third further beyond which we did not visit.
-In the course of our walk the countryman pointed to a spot where he said
-his grand-mother whilst tending the cattle found a large triangular {74}
-piece of gold as he called it, standing on three supporters weighing
-nearly forty pounds. The antique overgrown with heath but one of the
-beasts happening to tread upon it occasioned the discovery. This she
-sold for three shillings at Llanerchymedd.
-
- [Picture: No. 52. South of Bodafon Hill with a British Town]
-
-I should rather conceive that the metal was brass but whatever it was it
-would have been of more considerable value in the eyes of the
-antiquarian. Not far from this place he pointed to a number of loose
-stones called by a Welsh word answering to gold tongues {75a} as many
-pieces of gold of that shape he said were formerly picked up here. From
-the formation here specified I think one may not hesitate a moment in
-pronouncing they were brass celts or British weapons and as a farther
-(fol. 118_a_) confirmation of this opinion not a great way distant facing
-the south we traced the remains of a large British {75b} town. Here
-about forty or fifty foundations such as we have before noticed at Tre
-Evan may be clearly discerned some lying in a cluster together others
-standing separate, others again having a square form the name given to
-these remains scattered over the island we were informed by our
-intelligent companion by Cyteau {76a} Gwydellhod not Irishmens huts as
-some have translated it but the houses of the wild inhabitants. A spring
-rising near the spot still has a term of the same signification being
-stiled the well of the wild inhabitants. Some vestiges of similar {76b}
-buildings are to be traced to the north side of the hill, as also on the
-rising ground facing that part of Bodafon we have just noticed. It is
-natural to suppose that when the island was covered with wood, the
-inhabitants would fix their residence on elevated stations as a security
-(fol. 120) against their enemies and beasts of prey we may suppose the
-lower parts of these huts were alone built of stone and that branches of
-trees and earth formed the covering like those at present used amongst
-the lowest orders of Irish peasantry and why may not this people have
-retained the mode observed by the ancient Britons from whence they derive
-their origin. The highest point of Bodafon hills lies to the east
-commanding almost the whole circuit of the island. Here a beacon used to
-be lighted in case of invasion or to convey signals to the opposite coast
-of Carnarvonshire although probably it is many years since anything of
-the kind was used, yet the stones and the earth bear evident marks of the
-fire. It blew so hard to-day that it was with difficulty we kept on our
-legs on the high ground but on descending we were sheltered from the wind
-and had a pleasant walk to Penhros Llûgwy church an ancient building
-about half a mile to the south east of Bodafon hills. On a (fol. 120_a_)
-rough flat stone in the church yard I traced the following inscription,
-hic jacet Macuceceti. {77a} Mr. Rowlands, upon what authority I know
-not, supposes this to have been an inscription on Mechell or Macutius
-bishop of St. Maloes in Little Britain, who he says was buried here. We
-also observed two or three flat grave {77b} stones of a rough gritty
-substance about six feet long whereon was cut the figure of a cross in
-the same manner as those I noticed last year at Furness abbey. But what
-seemed most curious at first sight was an inscription marked on a flat
-stone {78} lying on the ground whose characters I recognised to be
-similar to what I had observed on the font at Bridekirk in Cumberland
-mixed with Saxon letters of a much later date. On observing Mr. Richards
-smile after I had finished my copy I requested he would candidly tell me
-what the inscription meant and in what character (fol. 122) it was
-written for I could make nothing out of it when he was kind enough to
-relieve me from my perplexity by explaining that it had been executed
-within these sixty years by a shepherds boy at the desire of a gentleman
-who employed various alphabets to compose it. The words are Welsh to
-this effect Yma hefyd mae Gorwedd Katherine Jones Ebrill 11 1744. ag. 70.
-Here also lies without Catherine Jones April 11 1744 aged 70. This I
-suppose was intended as a stumbling block for antiquarians the idea being
-probably suggested by Mr. Rowland’s Macutius in the neighbourhood. Like
-Doctor Johnson at the Hebrides I here had to regret the loss of my
-walking stick for although I dispatched our attendant and clerk in quest
-of it before we had proceeded an hundred yards from the place where I had
-copied the inscription, it was vanished. I shrewdly suspect that the
-clerk had taken a fancy to it as there was no other person in the church
-yard excepting our own party. However as he supplied me with something
-as a substitute it (fol. 122_a_) did not longer delay our march which
-brought us in the course of half an hour to Llûgwy house an ancient
-mansion now rented by a farmer under Lord Boston who goodnaturedly
-invited us within doors and refreshed us with a good luncheon of bread
-and cheese and some excellent ale. We then walked a short distance from
-the house to a rising ground overgrown with timber trees and coppice wood
-but still there was sufficient opening to enable us to trace a number of
-the Cytiau Gwyddellhod of a more perfect form and larger dimensions than
-any we had yet seen. They appear to be surrounded by a breast work of
-massive stones stuck edgeways in the ground evidently intended as a
-fortification which was probably strengthened by a mound and sharp
-stakes. The habitations here are very contiguous the entrances easily
-traced as also a communication {79} from one to the other. This is a
-strong confirmation of the historical account of the Aborigines who are
-said in the different tribes to have had every (fol. 126) thing in
-common.
-
- [Picture: No. 53. Stones in Penhros Llûgwy Churchyard]
-
- [Picture: No. 54. Cromlech Llwgwy, North-East Side]
-
-We purpose before we leave Wales visiting a very extensive fortress on
-the top of Penmaenmawr which Mr. Richards says resembles very much the
-one before us. Not far distant facing the ocean is a cromlech the upper
-stone six yards long, five yards and a half wide and three yards {80a}
-thick. One end rests upon a bank {80b} of earth and the other is
-supported by four or five small upright stones, leaving a hollow beneath
-about two feet high.
-
- [Picture: No. 55. Llûgwy Cromlech [and Caer Lligwy.]]
-
-Near this we noticed the remains of Llûgwy chapel now entirely
-dilapidated. Walked hence to Llanalgo church said to have been built in
-the year six hundred and five. On the north wall near the altar is a
-mutilated monument {80c} of a knight in armour kneeling before an altar
-said to be that of Sir John Bodville a gentleman whose residence was in
-this parish. On digging a few years ago the foundation of the new
-parsonage the workmen discovered a square vault formed of a solid
-composition resembling thick (fol. 126_a_) tile supposed to be an ancient
-burying place. Mr. Richards who was curate of this place for some years
-says he has in his possession English coins of Edward {81} and Mary found
-in digging in the church yard. Leaving the church we adjourned to a farm
-house close by where the party was again supplied with bread cheese and
-ale. Although I did not much admire this delay we were obliged to comply
-with Mr. Richards’s request. Continued here nearly an hour during which
-time a poor blind boy attempted to amuse us by playing on the harp but
-having received but few instructions was but an indifferent performer,
-our attendant then took the instrument and played some of the Welsh airs
-with tolerable execution. The poor boy in the meantime exhibited such
-strong marks of surprize mixed with mortification as would have supplied
-an admirable subject for the pen of Hogarth.
-
- [Picture: No. 56. Cromlech Allcho]
-
-After having given something to him we were not a little glad to take our
-leave it being (fol. 127) past two, and there was a doubt whether we
-could procure accommodation for the night nearer than Beaumaris at least
-twelve miles distant. Passed a stone about seven feet high nine long and
-three thick this is placed edgeways on a flat rock, another about the
-same shape and dimensions lies on the ground near at hand. A third
-formerly placed across has been destroyed within the memory of some of
-the inhabitants. These stones are called Cromlech but I should rather
-imagine like those we noticed at Llanfechell that it had constituted the
-chamber of a large Carnedd. Proceeding hence we walked over a natural
-layer of lime stones extending for some acres along the surface of the
-ground this is called Marian Glâs a term expressive of flat grey stones.
-We here met with a countryman who joined our party and in our progress
-pointed out some more of the Cytiau Gwyddellhod on (fol. 127_a_) a rising
-ground called Bryn {82} ddiol, and from hence we saw a hill about two
-miles to the westward named Rhos Fawr where he said were some other
-remains and cromlechs but this lay so much out of our direction we could
-not visit them. At Marian Mawr Mr. Richards quitted us. We were indeed
-much indebted to him for his polite attention in accompanying us thus far
-for I am convinced that without his assistance we should have passed many
-of these curious remains the common people in general being ignorant of
-everything of the kind. This gentleman seems to have paid a good deal of
-attention to antiquities and has promised to favour me with a letter on
-the subject on my return home. But I could not help remarking in the
-course of conversation that superstition does not seem confined to the
-ignorant and illiterate for he told me very gravely (fol. 129) that there
-were companies of fairies still existing in Wales and particularly in
-Anglesea and that he had frequently driven them from their haunts. He
-also spoke of the knockers supposed to be little invisible beings
-favourable to the miners who by making a variety of sounds underground
-lead them to those places where there is the greatest quantity of ore. I
-could only be silent when I heard these opinions advanced but he has
-directed me to a book lately published by Mr. Edmund Jones of Pontypool
-on the subject. At Marian Mawr are six large stones of the same kind as
-the substrata rising above seven feet. They have obtained the name of
-cromlech but I rather imagine them to be natural productions.
-
-Under the guidance of the countryman we proceeded to Red Wharf. Passed
-more of the Cytiau Gwyddelhod at a place called Trescifion. Near here is
-an ancient mansion house called Glynn now belonging to Mr. Meyricke (fol.
-129_a_) the name of Glynn a title common in many parts of Wales I find
-implies a situation lying in a narrow valley overgrown with trees. Not
-far beyond was a house in which Mr. Hughes resided before his vast
-acquisition in the Parys mountain. Arrived at Red Wharf a little before
-dark and the house promised but very bad accommodations we were obliged
-to put up with them. Our eating was of the least importance but on
-retiring to my sleeping apartment although the woman had provided clean
-linen the _toute ensemble_ was so dirty I passed the night without taking
-off my cloaths.
-
-
-
-SUNDAY, DECR. 12
-
-
-We were not sorry to leave this wretched alehouse as soon as there was
-sufficient light to see our direction three miles across the sands of
-Traeth Gôch to the village of Llanddona whose church stands on an
-eminence above the (fol. 130) bay and was first founded by Ddona grandson
-of Brychfael ys Cythrog (who fought the Saxons when the monks of Bangor
-Iscoed were slaughtered) anno six hundred and ten. About half a mile to
-the left are the traces of a large entrenchment supposed to have been
-thrown up by the Britons as a defence against the northern invaders.
-This is on a rising knoll called Dyn Sylwyn {84a} or Round Table Hill.
-This we had not leisure to see being obliged to hasten to Llainestan
-{84b} about a mile in the contrary direction in order to have sufficient
-time to notice an ancient monument, mentioned by Mr. Rowlands, before
-service began. Fortunately the church door was open and we met with no
-interruption during the half hour we stayed there. The object in
-question covering a cenotaph rose about two feet above the pavement near
-the communion table. A person in a sacerdotal habit holding a pastoral
-crook in his right hand and in his left a scroll is here represented,
-whereon is inscribed (fol. 131_a_) hic jacet sanctus Jestinus cui &c.,
-round the border of the slab towards the head the characters in parts are
-much defaced but I read Gryffydd ap Gwyllym in oblationem istam imaginem
-pro salute animarum suarum. The style of workmanship appears very
-similar to that of Pabo post Prid and by the way tends to confirm the
-opinion we there formed that the sculpture is many centuries posterior to
-the time of the persons they are designed to represent and offered as an
-oblation to the church for the purpose of securing the favour and
-mediation of the patron saint. That the family of this Gryffyd ap
-Gwyllym resided in this neighbourhood appears from a document still
-extant dated at Rhayder Gadog June the twentieth in the twenty seventh
-year of Henry the sixth by which seven villaines or vassals were made
-over and granted by Ednyfed Fychan ap Ednyfed Dafydd ap Gryffydd and
-Howell ap Dafydd according to the feudal system still obtaining to (fol.
-133) William Gryffyd ap Gwylym free tenant of Porthamel probably the very
-same person who presented the effigies of St. Jesten to the church. This
-Jesten founder of the church is supposed to have been the son of
-Gerennius or Geraint grandson of Constantine duke of Cornwall successor
-to king Arthur. The font is certainly very ancient probably coeval with
-the original building. The present structure differs nothing from other
-Welsh Churches. From hence proceeded across a swampy heath for a mile
-and a half to an old mansion called Fotti {85} Rhydderch or Roderick’s
-summer house having been directed thither to see an inscription cut over
-an arched chimney piece in the kitchen. The characters appear to be
-about the time of Henry the eighth or his successor and are read Si deus
-nobiscum quis contra nos. This place formerly the residence of a
-gentleman’s family like most others we have had occasion to notice in the
-island is now tenanted by a farmer (fol. 133_a_) who has a fine family of
-nine children. The eldest a lad of only eleven years old engaged to
-conduct us to the cromlechs at Cremlyn and Trefor. At the former place
-there is little worthy of notice but at the latter I took two sketches of
-a very perfect cromlech the upper stone measuring about three yards
-across supported by two uprights the larger six feet high the other not
-above four and a half which cause the cap stone to recline in a slanting
-direction. Another long stone now lying on the ground appears to have
-been formerly used as a supporter. Near at hand also are three or four
-flat stones lying promiscuously.
-
- [Picture: No. 58. Ancient Monument in Llaniestyn]
-
- [Picture: No. 59. Font at Llaniestyn]
-
- [Picture: No. 60. Cromlech at Trefor]
-
- [Picture: No. 61. Cromlech at Trefor]
-
-Whether these were ever employed in the formation of a second cromlech
-like at Praes Addfed {86a} I cannot pretend to determine. About two
-fields from hence in our way to Penymynnedd {86b} we traced one of very
-small dimensions, the cap stone not being above a yard across and its two
-supporters a foot and a half high.
-
-(fol. 136) After a toilsome walk we arrived at Penymynnedd a place
-formerly in possession of the Tudor family whose descendant Owen became
-of such consequence in the British history by marrying Catherine widow of
-Henry the fifth. In the church we perceived a handsome marble monument
-said to belong to that family whereon are the effigies of a knight in
-armour with his lady by his side. There being no inscription we could
-not determine its exact date but from the workmanship I should imagine it
-was posterior to the time of Owen who if I mistake not was buried in the
-cathedral of St. Davids but of this I shall inform myself hereafter.
-
-The church of Penymynnedd formerly went by the name of its founder whose
-tomb they pointed out under a kind of gothic nitch in the north wall
-without any kind of inscription. I did not copy the monument on account
-of there being a good many people in church (fol. 136_a_) and I wished
-not to put a stumbling block in my brother’s way but I afterwards made a
-sketch from memory just to notice the place. After a homely meal we
-walked half a mile across the fields to the turnpike, and in the course
-of an hour arrived at Bangor ferry completely soaked a heavy rain having
-accompanied us all the way. Crossed the water about two with the design
-of reaching Capel Cerig to sleep but in this we were disappointed through
-the inattention of our guide who having stopped behind on some pretence
-we mistook our way and deviated nearly four miles before we got to
-Llandegai.
-
-It was now quite dark and stormy and we endeavoured to procure horses to
-take us to the conclusion of our stage but without success, on therefore
-we marched to a small public house near Lord Penrhyn’s quarries where we
-met a civil reception though the accommodations were scarcely (fol. 138)
-a whit better than those of the preceeding night. In the course of two
-hours after our arrival our guide made his appearance with a number of
-excuses I did not think it worth while to listen to. At about ten we
-retired to our sleeping room.
-
- [Picture: No. 30. Llangwyfan Church. (See page 43.)]
-
-
-
-MONDAY, DECR. 13
-
-
-It rained violently all night but clearing up after breakfast we pursued
-our road to Capel Cerig. In our way purchased a hone at the quarry near
-Ogwen lake of a man living in a cottage close at hand who is employed on
-the spot to procure this article and two or three shiploads have already
-been sent to different parts. Arrived at the inn about one gratified by
-our ten days tour in the island notwithstanding the bad weather we
-experienced having in that period walked above an hundred and sixty eight
-miles.
-
- * * * * *
-
- CORRIGENDUM.
- On page 68, line 30, _for_ “auxore” _read_ “uxore.”
-
-
-
-
-FOOTNOTES.
-
-
-{11a} Llanidan House belonged to Lord Boston, from whom Mr. Williams
-rented it.
-
-{11b} South-west.
-
-{13a} Castell near Bryn Gwyn.
-
-{13b} West.
-
-{14a} Braint.
-
-{14b} Caer Lab.
-
-{15a} Bodowyr.
-
-{15b} Half a mile south-west.
-
-{16a} Myfyrian.
-
-{16b} Tre Ifan.
-
-{17} Llanedwen.
-
-{18} Carnedd at Plâs Newydd.
-
-{20} Cromlech at Plâs Newydd.
-
-{22a} Gwydryn.
-
-{22b} Brynsiencyn.
-
-{23} Castell Idris.
-
-{28} Perthi Duon?
-
-{30a} A mile and a quarter south-west.
-
-{30b} Frondeg.
-
-{32a} Malltraeth.
-
-{32b} Trefdraeth.
-
-{34} Llysdulas.
-
-{36a} Llyn Coron.
-
-{36b} Trefeilir.
-
-{37} Tregarnedd? three miles to the north. “Ester mon eglwr”—should
-this read . . . maes elidr? “? Esgair maes elidr.”
-
-{38} Cerrigceinwen.
-
-{44a} Llangwyfan House.
-
-{44b} Mynydd Cnwc.
-
-{46} At Ty Newydd.
-
-{47a} Crigyll.
-
-{47b} At Pentraeth.
-
-{49} Nhewyn.
-
-{50a} Gwyndy.
-
-{50b} At Presaddfedd.
-
-{50c} Feet?
-
-{53} Llandrygarn.
-
-{54} Now at Trescawen.
-
-{71} Alaw?
-
-{72a} Two miles.
-
-{72b} Careg Lleidr.
-
-{73} Can this be meant for Lleidrgoch or Llechgoch? Possibly it should
-be Llidach as a chapel of this name used to stand close to the
-spot.—_Cambrian Register_, ii, 288.
-
-{74} The exact spot where the “triangular piece of gold” was found is
-not clearly indicated. Apparently it was on the North-West side of the
-mountain. Mr. Skinner, however, in his sketch, shows it on the
-South-East side.
-
-Probably the sketches were worked up in the evening from memory, which
-may account for the errors which appear in some of them.
-
-{75a} The position where these “gold tongues” stood was probably on the
-North-West side of the mountain though shown by Mr. Skinner on the
-South-East.
-
-{75b} This town was Tre Beirdd on the North-West side of the mountain,
-incorrectly indicated on the South-East side on Mr. Skinner’s ground
-plan.
-
-{76a} Cyttiau Gwyddelod.
-
-{76b} These are marked on the 25 in. Ordnance Map.
-
-{77a} Maccudecceti.
-
-{77b} No such stones are now to be found here.
-
-{78} Catherine Jones’ burial is entered in the Register, but the stone
-cannot be found.
-
-{79} This is incorrect.
-
-{80a} The thickness is about 3 ft. 6 ins.
-
-{80b} At this end it rests on a flat rock.
-
-{80c} Demolished about fifteen years ago.
-
-{81} William and Mary.
-
-{82} At Traeth Bychan? Bryn ddiol is the hill on which the
-Romano-British village, close to Parciau House, is situated.
-
-{84a} Din Sylwy or Bwrdd Arthur.
-
-{84b} Llaniestyn.
-
-{85} Hafodty
-
-{86a} Presaddfedd.
-
-{86b} Penmynydd.
-
-
-
-
-***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TEN DAYS' TOUR THROUGH THE ISLE OF
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-<pre>
-
-The Project Gutenberg eBook, Ten Days' Tour through the Isle of Anglesea,
-by John Skinner
-
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-
-Title: Ten Days' Tour through the Isle of Anglesea
- December, 1802
-
-
-Author: John Skinner
-
-
-
-Release Date: December 28, 2020 [eBook #64154]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
-
-
-***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TEN DAYS' TOUR THROUGH THE ISLE OF
-ANGLESEA***
-</pre>
-<p>Transcribed from the July 1908 Charles J. Clark edition by
-David Price.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center"><b>Archaeologia Cambrensis</b></p>
-<h1>TEN DAYS&rsquo; TOUR<br />
-<span class="GutSmall">THROUGH</span><br />
-THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA</h1>
-<p style="text-align: center">DECEMBER, 1802</p>
-<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">BY</span><br
-/>
-REV. JOHN SKINNER<br />
-<span class="GutSmall">RECTOR OF CAMERTON,
-SOMERSETSHIRE</span></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/tpb.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Decorative shield graphic"
-title=
-"Decorative shield graphic"
- src="images/tps.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center"><i>SUPPLEMENT</i>, <i>JULY</i>,
-1908.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p style="text-align: center">LONDON:<br />
-Published for the Cambrian Archaeological Association by<br />
-<span class="GutSmall">CHARLES J. CLARK, 65, CHANCERY LANE,
-W.C.</span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<h2><a name="page3"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-3</span>INTRODUCTION</h2>
-<p><span class="smcap">The Rev. John Skinner&rsquo;s</span>
-<i>Ten Days&rsquo; Tour Through Anglesey</i>, which is given in
-the following pages, has been carefully transcribed from the
-manuscript in the British Museum, the punctuation, spelling, and
-use of capitals followed strictly throughout.&nbsp; Some notes
-have been kindly furnished by Mr. E. Neil Baynes, F.S.A., and he
-has also copied (in black and white) most of the water-colour
-illustrations which are included in the manuscript.&nbsp; The
-illustrations are reduced from the original size, but with this
-exception and the absence of colour they have been copied as
-closely as possible, with all errors of perspective, etc.&nbsp;
-Some of the drawings would appear to have been done by Mr.
-Skinner in the evening from memory, and not on the spot.&nbsp;
-The complete list is printed herewith, and the pages where the
-plates appear in the original.&nbsp; A copy of an extract from
-Mr. Skinner&rsquo;s will is subjoined, in which he expresses his
-particular wish that the chests containing his numerous notebooks
-should not be opened until the expiration of fifty years from the
-day of his death.</p>
-
-<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
-<p style="text-align: center"><i>Extracted from the Principal
-Registry of the Probate Divorce</i><br />
-<i>and Admiralty Division of the High Court of Justice</i><br />
-<i>In the Prerogative Court of Canterbury</i>.</p>
-<p><span class="smcap">In the will</span> of the Reverend <span
-class="smcap">John Skinner</span> late Rector of Camerton in the
-county of Somerset deceased dated 1st February 1839 is as
-follows:&mdash;</p>
-<p>No. 2.&nbsp; I give and bequeath to the trustees of the
-British Museum all my Journals and other Manuscripts transcribed
-by my late brother Russell from No. 1 to No. 110 both <a
-name="page4"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 4</span>inclusive and
-interleaved with original drawings together with the Journals I
-have made in my own hand-writing since my brother&rsquo;s death
-from the year one thousand eight hundred and thirty three to the
-year one thousand eight hundred and thirty-eight in volume 1 to
-volume 36 of an Octavo size with blue Morocco backs containing
-altogether in number one hundred and forty six which I desire may
-be safely conveyed to the trustees of the British Museum with the
-five Iron Chests in which they are now contained and I request my
-said executor the Reverend John Hammond to see to the performance
-of this bequest in the manner aforesaid and it is my particular
-wish and request that neither of the Iron Chests with the
-contents aforesaid shall be opened till after the expiration of
-fifty years from the day of my death but provided the trustees of
-the British Museum should raise any objection thereto it is my
-will that my before mentioned request should not be insisted
-upon.</p>
-<p class="gutindent">Proved (with two Codicils)<br />
-14th November 1839<br />
-Fos 4<br />
-J J C<br />
-716 Vaughan</p>
-<p>N.B.&mdash;It is not to be inferred that the foregoing extract
-contains the only portion of the said Will referring to the
-matters therein mentioned.</p>
-<h2><a name="page5"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 5</span>LIST OF
-ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2>
-<table>
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td></td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
-class="GutSmall">PAGE</span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>1.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Pl&acirc;s Goch</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>2.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Blochty Enclosures</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>3.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Bryn Gwyn.&nbsp; Stone by Cottage</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>4.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Ground Plans, Caer Leb, etc.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>6, 7.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Bodowyr Cromlech (2)</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page30">30</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>8, 9, 10, 11.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Carnedd at Plas Newydd (4)</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page34">34</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page37">37</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>12.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Cromlech at Plas Newydd</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page39">39</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td><p>Cromlech and Stables (omitted)</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>5.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Ground Plan, Bryn Gwydryn, etc.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page42">42</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td><p>Coins of Edward VI and Elizabeth (omitted)</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td><p>Bryn Celli, Plan and Finds</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page44">44</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td><p>Llanidan Church</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>16.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Stone (Fitzgerald) in Llanidan Church</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>17.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Maen Llwyd Cromlech</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page52">52</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>18.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Frondeg Stone</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page53">53</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>19.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Llangadwaladr Church</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image55">55</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>20.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Llangadwaladr Doorway, showing Stone</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page56">56</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td><p>Inscription to Rich. Williams (omitted as it is in the
-text).</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>21.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Llangadwaladr Church Inscribed Stone</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page57">57</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>22.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Henblas Cromlech</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page60">60</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>23.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Cerrigceinwen Church</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page63">63</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>24, 25.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Cerrigceinwen Church Clochti (2)</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page64">64</a></span>, <span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image55">55</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>26, 27, 28.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Cerrigceinwen Church Font (2)</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page66">66</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>29.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Aberffraw Church Arch</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td><p>Llangwyfan Church (omitted)</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>31.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Llangwyfan Church, Interior</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page72">72</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>32.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Llangwyfan House</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page74">74</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>33.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Cromlech at Mynydd y Cnwc</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td><p>A half-finished sketch of Trecastel Bay (omitted)</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>34.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Llanfaelog Cromlech (2)</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page78">78</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>36.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Crighyll Cromlech</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page81">81</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>37, 39.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Presaddfedd Cromlech (3)</p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page84">84</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page86">86</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td><p>Proposed Menai Bridge (omitted)</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>41.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Llantrisant Stone</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td><p>Pabo Stone (omitted, <i>vide Arch. Camb.</i>, January,
-1908)</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td><p>Doorway at Llanbabo (omitted, <i>vide Arch. Camb.</i>,
-January, 1908)</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><a name="page6"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-6</span>45.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Llanfechell Stones</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td><p>Llanfechell Church and Font</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>46.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Llaneilian Church</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td><p>Parys Mine (omitted)</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>48.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Three Stones (near Amlwch)</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>49.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Llanol Stone</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>50.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Cromlech on Bodafon Mountain and Carreg Lleidr</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td><p>Coin of Diocletian (omitted)</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>51.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>View of Bodafon Mountain from N.W.</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>52.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>View of Bodafon Mountain from S.E.</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>53.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Stones in Penrhos lligwy Churchyard</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>54.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Lligwy Cromlech</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>55.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Lligwy Cromlech, Caer Lligwy</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>56.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Llanallgo Cromlech and Font (<i>vide</i> note)</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td><p>Stones at Marianglas (omitted)</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>58.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Llaniestyn Stone</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>59.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Llaniestyn Font</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p>60, 61.</p>
-</td>
-<td><p>Cromlech at Trefor (2)</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td><p>Altar Tomb in Penmynydd Church, sketched from memory
-(omitted)</p>
-</td>
-<td></td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-<p>No. 99.&nbsp; The stepped gable over the gateway should, I
-think, be over the porch, and the pointed gable shown over the
-porch should be over the gateway, but I am not certain.</p>
-<p>No. 115.&nbsp; The font described as in Penrhoslligwy Church
-is really the old font of Llanallgo.&nbsp; It was covered with
-plaster and set on a rough mass of masonry.&nbsp; When the Church
-was restored, about fifteen years ago, the plaster was cut away
-and the font was redressed.</p>
-
-<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>N.B.&mdash;The beginning of a page in the original is marked
-by the introduction in the text of folio and number between
-brackets, thus (fol. 22).</p>
-<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page7"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 7</span><i>Additional MSS.</i> 33,636</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">This book was transcribed from my
-Journal by my<br />
-brother <span class="smcap">Russell Skinner</span> (who was the
-companion<br />
-of my Tour) Anno Dom: 1804</p>
-
-<div class="gapmediumline">&nbsp;</div>
-<h2>SKETCHES IN ANGLESEA<br />
-<span class="GutSmall">TAKEN IN DECEMBER 1802</span></h2>
-<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">BY</span><br
-/>
-REV<sup>D.</sup> JOHN SKINNER</p>
-<p style="text-align: right">1802<br />
-62</p>
-<p style="text-align: right">1740</p>
-<p>I give this Vol. of my Anglesea Tour with my other Journals,
-to the British Museum to be retained by them according to the
-directions I have left in my will respecting the disposal of my
-MSS.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page9"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 9</span>(fol. 22)</p>
-<h2>TEN DAYS&rsquo; TOUR THE<br />
-ISLE OF ANGLESEA<br />
-<span class="smcap">Anno</span> 1802</h2>
-<h3><span class="smcap">Thursday</span>, <span
-class="smcap">December</span> 2</h3>
-<p><span class="smcap">We</span> left Capel Cerig early this
-morning on horseback with the design of examining the Celtic
-remains in the Isle of Anglesea the Harper of the inn
-accompanying us in the capacity of interpreter.&nbsp; After a
-ride of fifteen miles along the vale of Nantffrancon by Lord
-Penrhyn&rsquo;s quarries we came to Moel-don ferry about eleven
-o&rsquo;clock when returning our horses by a boy (fol.
-22<i>a</i>) (previously sent forward for the purpose from Capel
-Cerig) we proceeded as pedestrians.&nbsp; Our passage across the
-Menai savoured somewhat of quixottism for the ferry boat being on
-the other side waiting for passengers we were unable to brook the
-delay so taking possession of a fisherman&rsquo;s skiff lying on
-the beach we rowed to the Island pursuing nearly the same track
-as the Romans seventeen hundred years ago under the command of
-Paulinus Suetonius which event is so particularly described by
-Tacitus.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p10b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 1. Pl&acirc;s Goch, December 2"
-title=
-"No. 1. Pl&acirc;s Goch, December 2"
- src="images/p10s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p11b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 2. Sketch"
-title=
-"No. 2. Sketch"
- src="images/p11s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>On our landing we immediately made the necessary enquiries at
-a public house for the route we were to pursue and found the
-places we had noted down lay so wide asunder it would be
-impossible to comprehend them in the course of the day.&nbsp; We
-accordingly determined on making that our sleeping place and
-after a slight meal (fol. 24) took the road across the fields to
-Llanidan.&nbsp; In our way passed an ancient mansion called <a
-name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 10</span>Pl&acirc;s
-Goch apparently built in the time of Elizabeth.&nbsp; A little
-way beyond the house is a natural barrier of rock rising abruptly
-above the level ground and extending almost the whole way to
-Porthamel the distance of half a mile.&nbsp; Near this place in a
-meadow the Romans are supposed to have formed their ranks
-immediately on landing and the field to this day retains the name
-of Pant y scraffie, or the place of the passage boats.&nbsp; At
-low tides the channel is not above three or four feet deep so
-that it might easily have been crossed by the cavalry in the
-manner described by the Historian and the natural barrier before
-mentioned being so contiguous, it is not at all improbable that
-it was the first post occupied by the Romans under Paulinus
-Suetonius on their invasion of the island 1740 years ago.&nbsp;
-&ldquo;Igitur Monam insulam, incolis validam et receptaculum
-perfugarum adgredi parat, navesque fabricatur plano alveo
-adversus breve litus (flat bottomed boats to pass over the
-shallows) et incertum&mdash;sic pedes&mdash;(the infantry thus <a
-name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 11</span>passed over)
-equites vado secuti aut altiores inter undas adnantes equis
-tramisere.&rdquo;&nbsp; The cavalry followed the infantry, and by
-fording and swimming over the deeper channels arrived at the
-opposite side.&nbsp; Tac. Ann. lib. 14, c. 29.&nbsp; A few
-minutes&rsquo; walk brought us to Llanidan church, which seems
-superior to (fol. 24<i>a</i>) the generality of Welsh buildings
-of the kind having a double roof and two bells in the clochti or
-belfry.&nbsp; A large irregular built mansion <a
-name="citation11a"></a><a href="#footnote11a"
-class="citation">[11a]</a> belonging to Mr. Williams who has
-acquired such immense property in the Pary&rsquo;s Mines stands
-close to it.&nbsp; From Llanidan we took the road to Bryn Shenkin
-half a mile beyond.&nbsp; It is where Mr. Roland supposes the
-Britons formerly had a town but now every trace is lost.&nbsp;
-Having procured a lad well acquainted with the neighbourhood to
-conduct us by the nearest route we quickly proceeded to Blochti
-half a mile further to the north-west. <a
-name="citation11b"></a><a href="#footnote11b"
-class="citation">[11b]</a>&nbsp; At this place on a steep bank or
-rather ridge <a name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-12</span>of rock (a quarry being now worked beneath) we traced
-the foundations of four or five circular buildings in a line
-close to each other each measuring nearly seven yards in
-diameter.&nbsp; The same gentleman Mr. Rowland describes these as
-the remains (fol. 26) of British habitations and his opinion
-seems to be confirmed by some others of a similar form lying in a
-meadow called Tan-ben-y-cefn not two hundred yards from the
-spot.&nbsp; These latter are surrounded by two quadrangular
-earthworks the larger fifty yards by forty containing four of
-these circular foundations the smaller (forty yards by thirty)
-only two.&nbsp; It is not improbable that some of the Roman
-soldiers might have occupied this spot after driving the
-inhabitants from their possessions and that the earth works were
-thrown up by them by way of security.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p12b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 3. Druidical Stone standing near a Cottage called Bryn
-Gwyn"
-title=
-"No. 3. Druidical Stone standing near a Cottage called Bryn
-Gwyn"
- src="images/p12s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Crossing a barren marshy heath we saw the banks of a circular
-work probably formed for the same purpose as that we before
-noticed at Caerleon and I presume was a gymnasium or place of
-exercise (the <a name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-13</span>country people indeed have an idea it was a
-fortification as our guide informed us it still goes by the name
-of the Castle. <a name="citation13a"></a><a href="#footnote13a"
-class="citation">[13a]</a>&nbsp; Whatever it was it does not
-appear to have been at all connected with the Druidical worship
-(fol. 26<i>a</i>) as Mr. Rowland supposes).&nbsp; The mound
-encompassing the area may be from ten to fifteen feet in height
-the diameter of the circle sixty yards.&nbsp; This measurement I
-believe is nearly accurate but part of the circle having been
-destroyed in order to form a cart road makes it more difficult to
-determine with certainty.&nbsp; On enquiring for some ancient
-stones noticed by Mr. Roland at a place called Bryn Gwyn we were
-directed to one standing near a cottage a quarter of a mile to
-the north-west <a name="citation13b"></a><a href="#footnote13b"
-class="citation">[13b]</a> of the circus.&nbsp; It was of a
-lozenge form measuring above three yards in height and two in
-width.&nbsp; We observed none of equal dimensions near at hand
-but in a field at the back of the cottage there were six each
-about a yard high placed three and three at equal distances so as
-to form <a name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-14</span>two exact triangles.&nbsp; From hence we proceeded along
-higher ground to a farm house called (fol. 29) Tref Drw (Druids
-town) where some of that venerable order are said to have
-resided.&nbsp; Now the name alone records the circumstance to
-posterity as there is nothing remaining which can be attributed
-to so remote a period.&nbsp; But not far distant we were directed
-to a quadrangular earth work thrown up on marshy ground near the
-brook (or as it is termed by the inhabitants the river Briant).
-<a name="citation14a"></a><a href="#footnote14a"
-class="citation">[14a]</a>&nbsp; The outer mound <a
-name="citation14b"></a><a href="#footnote14b"
-class="citation">[14b]</a> measures fifty yards by forty and is
-about five feet in height the trench 12 feet wide.&nbsp; Near the
-centre of the enclosure we noticed the foundation of another of
-the circular huts above mentioned and in an angle to the south
-east appearances of walls and buildings.&nbsp; The course of the
-river must have altered considerably in aftertimes otherwise the
-Romans would hardly have chosen so damp a spot even for a
-temporary encampment.&nbsp; Still continuing in a northerly <a
-name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 15</span>direction and
-leaping over the river Briant we regained the higher ground near
-(fol. 29<i>a</i>) Bodower <a name="citation15a"></a><a
-href="#footnote15a" class="citation">[15a]</a> house which is at
-present occupied by a farmer who rents the property of Lord
-Boston.&nbsp; Here we were gratified by the sight of a very
-perfect chromlech standing in a field to the N.W. <a
-name="citation15b"></a><a href="#footnote15b"
-class="citation">[15b]</a> of the house.&nbsp; The upper stone
-terminates in a ridge like the roof of a building and measures
-seven feet four inches long three feet deep and four wide: this
-is sustained by three supporters each three feet in height &amp;
-nearly the same in thickness.&nbsp; That cromlechs were not
-always used (if they were at all) as altars for sacrifice I think
-may be demonstrated by the one before us (as its Pyramidical form
-is by no means adapted to the purpose.&nbsp; Indeed there is a
-tradition amongst the Welsh that this rude memorial was erected
-over the grave of a British princess named Bronwen who flourished
-in the year of the world 3105!!!!).&nbsp; My sketches being
-finished we <a name="page16"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-16</span>hastened on hoping to reach Mafyrian <a
-name="citation16a"></a><a href="#footnote16a"
-class="citation">[16a]</a> a mile and a half further before the
-evening closed in but owing to a mistake of the guide&rsquo;s we
-lost our way and wandered about until it grew quite dark.&nbsp;
-Our disappointment however was in some respect alleviated (fol.
-32) by the intelligence we received of some Roman coins in
-possession of a person at Tre Evan <a name="citation16b"></a><a
-href="#footnote16b" class="citation">[16b]</a> a cottage we were
-to pass on our return.&nbsp; The moon having by this time risen
-above the horizon we had a pleasant walk to Tre Evan and entering
-the door made known the purport of our visit to the good lady of
-the house who readily acknowledged she once had a great many bits
-of brass money but thinking them of no value had given them her
-children to play with.&nbsp; On our anxious request through our
-interpreter for a more exact scruitiny in this important concern
-she began rumaging a little cupboard and at length produced a
-counterfeit shilling of William the third which she said was all
-that she retained of any money.&nbsp; This was a mortifying
-termination to our suspence as we were in hope a few (fol.
-32<i>a</i>) might have escaped the general dispertion.&nbsp; On
-enquiring how the brass coins came into her possession she
-informed us that about six years ago whilst a labourer was
-building a wall round a field near her house he took materials
-for the purpose from the foundations of some circular buildings
-(similar to those at Blochti) in one of which he discovered a
-millstone containing in the cavity at the centre about two quarts
-of brass coins.&nbsp; He also dug up a smaller millstone which
-she still retained in her cottage.&nbsp; On producing it I found
-it of a close texture and tho&rsquo; only ten inches in diameter
-weighing twenty-six pounds.&nbsp; This probably belonged to a
-hand mill as it seems to resemble those I noticed in my excursion
-along the Roman wall.&nbsp; By the way the circumstance of
-finding these coins hid in the foundation of a circular building
-sufficiently proves that the Romans occupied the <a
-name="page17"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 17</span>premises
-after the Britons had quitted them.&nbsp; We returned at seven
-o&rsquo;clock to Moel-don and supped in company with a young
-clergyman just appointed to the curacy of the parish.&nbsp; He
-proved an agreeable companion and gave us some interesting (fol.
-33) information regarding the new regulations at Oxford.&nbsp; On
-retiring to our sleeping apartments we found them altogether the
-most homely I ever occupied.&nbsp; However as we had made up our
-minds not to quarrel with trivial difficulties we resigned
-ourselves to our lot without murmuring and sleep soon veiled all
-in oblivion.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p13b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 4. Sketch"
-title=
-"No. 4. Sketch"
- src="images/p13s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p14b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 6. Side view of Bodowyr Cromlech"
-title=
-"No. 6. Side view of Bodowyr Cromlech"
- src="images/p14s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p15b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 7. End view of Bodowyr Cromlech"
-title=
-"No. 7. End view of Bodowyr Cromlech"
- src="images/p15s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<h3><span class="smcap">Friday</span>, <span
-class="smcap">Decr</span>. 3</h3>
-<p>We were up early this morning but it rained so fast we could
-not leave the house till ten.&nbsp; I employed the interval in
-copying a map of the Island on a large scale which is to be
-filled up as we proceed.&nbsp; Accompanied by our new
-acquaintance we first visited Llanedwyn <a
-name="citation17"></a><a href="#footnote17"
-class="citation">[17]</a> church where he officiates for the
-first time next Sunday.&nbsp; The church yard and a great part of
-the parish has lately been enclosed by Lord Uxbridge&rsquo;s park
-walls and we were not a little surprized to find a (fol.
-33<i>a</i>) porter&rsquo;s lodge and a locked gate on the church
-road.</p>
-<p>In the church yard is a flat stone with a Latin inscription to
-Rowlands the antiquarian who held this living with Llanidan for
-many years.&nbsp; We found by the date that he died in one
-thousand seven hundred and twenty-seven.</p>
-<p>What is very extraordinary for the author of such a book as
-<i>Mona Antiqua</i> we were told he was never above once out of
-the Island in his life.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p18b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 8. Carnedd in Lord Uxbridge&rsquo;s Park, North Side"
-title=
-"No. 8. Carnedd in Lord Uxbridge&rsquo;s Park, North Side"
- src="images/p18s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Llanedwyn church is said by this gentleman to have been
-originally founded by Edwen neice or daughter to king Edwin anno
-domini six hundred and four though none of the present building
-we presume can boast of <a name="page18"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 18</span>that antiquity it being formed after
-the present model of Welsh churches.&nbsp; Yet it retains its
-bason for holy water, its modern crosses, and a curious
-inscription cut on the back of one of the pews, the letters
-running in a circle with <span class="GutSmall">I. H. S.</span>
-in the centre.&nbsp; I believe the inscription is Welsh: the
-character (fol. 38) apparently that made use of in the time of
-Henry the seventh.&nbsp; From hence we pursued our walk across
-the park towards Lord Uxbridge&rsquo;s house stopping in the way
-to examine a very large Carnedd <a name="citation18"></a><a
-href="#footnote18" class="citation">[18]</a> or artificial
-hillock formed of loose stones but now overgrown with turf and
-trees.&nbsp; This remain is one of the most considerable in the
-island measuring one hundred and thirty-four paces in
-circumference.&nbsp; On walking round it we observed a square
-opening on the south side which I entered on my hands and knees
-and found it about ten feet long, four wide and three high, the
-sides formed of three large flat stones placed edgeways in the
-ground supporting the roof which consists of only two.&nbsp; I
-have endeavoured to be as exact as I could in my drawings of this
-cistfaen (which without <a name="page19"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 19</span>doubt it was) and employed as the
-grave of some considerable personage (folio 38<i>a</i>) in
-ancient <a name="page20"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-20</span>times though Mr. Rowlands appropriates the carnedd to a
-very different use and connects it with the religion of the
-Druids.&nbsp; In his time three skeletons were discovered in
-digging near the surface of the carnedd which gave him an idea of
-its being a place of sacrifice but he had never an opportunity of
-viewing the interior (the opening having been discovered within
-these few years) he was unable to speak with certainty on the
-subject.&nbsp; This was certainly the mode of sepulture among the
-Britons, and northern invaders before the introduction of
-Christianity, and many of the open parts of England especially
-Wiltshire &amp; Dorsetshire abound in them, there they are
-denomenated barrows, in Derbyshire &amp; the northern counties
-they are called lows.&nbsp; The term carnedd implies a heap of
-stones.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p19ab.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 9. South Side and Entrance of the Carnedd"
-title=
-"No. 9. South Side and Entrance of the Carnedd"
- src="images/p19as.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p19bb.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 10. Ground Plan of the Cisfaen within the Carnedd"
-title=
-"No. 10. Ground Plan of the Cisfaen within the Carnedd"
- src="images/p19bs.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p20b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 11. Interior of the Cisfaen, the Right-hand Side on
-Entering"
-title=
-"No. 11. Interior of the Cisfaen, the Right-hand Side on
-Entering"
- src="images/p20s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p21b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 12. Cromlech in Lord Uxbridge&rsquo;s Park"
-title=
-"No. 12. Cromlech in Lord Uxbridge&rsquo;s Park"
- src="images/p21s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>From hence we proceeded to look at a very large cromlech <a
-name="citation20"></a><a href="#footnote20"
-class="citation">[20]</a> or Druidical altar preserved in the
-Park near his lordship&rsquo;s stables.&nbsp; In our way there we
-passed in front of the house a vast pile of building <a
-name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 21</span>designed by
-Wyatt and recently fitted up with every elegance of modern
-refinement but as the family (fol. 41) were at home we could not
-visit the interiour.&nbsp; However I made a drawing of the
-cromlech which is nearly four yards long and above a yard thick,
-the supporters at the north end nearly five feet high a smaller
-stone lying close to the other extremity measuring three feet
-long and two and a half thick has also its small supporters and
-is to all appearance intended as a separate cromlech.&nbsp; A
-large tree spreading its branches over the moss grown stone and
-the venerable wood sheltering the park are still very impressive
-and give some idea of the enthusiasm these objects were capable
-of inspiring when connected with superstition.&nbsp; The stables,
-not far distant from the spot are built in a style of gothic
-architecture resembling an extensive monastery, the pampered and
-lazy steeds within their stalls may be considered as no inapt
-emblem of the former (fol. 41<i>a</i>) inhabitants of such kind
-of edifices.&nbsp; From hence we walked to a modern villa
-situated in another part of the grounds <a
-name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 22</span>called Fort
-C&aelig;sar built by Colonel Peacock about 20 years since, but on
-Lord Uxbridge&rsquo;s purchasing the Colonel&rsquo;s estate it
-was enclosed within that park, as is also a more ancient mansion
-called Pl&acirc;s Llanedwyn besides many farm houses and
-cottages.&nbsp; The park wall has not long since been erected, it
-is built of stone ten feet high and extends nearly four miles in
-length.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p22b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 5"
-title=
-"No. 5"
- src="images/p22s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Returning to Llanedwyn church we proceeded in company with Mr.
-Hughes of Pl&acirc;s Goch towards Bryn Gwiderin.&nbsp; In our way
-thither he engaged a young man well acquainted with the country
-to conduct us to those places we had marked out in our list for
-the day.&nbsp; Bryn Gwiderin <a name="citation22a"></a><a
-href="#footnote22a" class="citation">[22a]</a> is a natural ledge
-of rock resembling what we before noticed at Pl&acirc;s Goch
-running for upwards of two miles towards Bryn Shenkin <a
-name="citation22b"></a><a href="#footnote22b"
-class="citation">[22b]</a> the (fol. 43) Beaumaris road being
-formed on the summit.&nbsp; <a name="page23"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 23</span>The Romans are supposed to have fixed
-upon this spot as their principal station in the Island though
-the shape of the fortress <a name="citation23"></a><a
-href="#footnote23" class="citation">[23]</a> differs from their
-usual form being a semicircle ninety yards across defended by a
-triple trench to the southward and to the north by the natural
-barrier above mentioned.&nbsp; I was anxious to see whether the
-walls had been constructed with cement as in the more finished
-works of the Romans but could gain no information on the subject
-having nothing with us to clear away the rubbish from the
-surface.&nbsp; On asking the guide whether they had ever
-discovered any copper coins, he said oh yes he had some in his
-possession and off he ran like a dart to his cottage nearly half
-a mile distant.&nbsp; We waited his return hoping at length our
-wishes would be gratified in this respect when lo! instead of
-coins bearing the effigies of the C&aelig;sars he produced a
-handful of (fol. 43<i>a</i>) rough copper ore, on explaining to
-him what we wanted saying they resembled a piece of money he said
-he had one of that kind also of silver which he picked up a short
-time since in a field near home whither he returned with equal
-alacrity to procure it and shortly made his appearance with a
-shilling of Elizabeth&rsquo;s!!!&nbsp; So much for coins.&nbsp;
-There seems to be a fatality against my collecting any.&nbsp; In
-my excursion along the Roman Wall I heard of many but could
-obtain none.&nbsp; Those I procured at Caerwent are unfortunately
-lost many have certainly been dug up in these parts but either
-lost or disposed of.&nbsp; We continued our progress from Bryn
-Gwyderin in a northerly direction towards Mafyrian the distance
-of two miles over heaths &amp; bogs.&nbsp; At this place we
-expected to meet with some Druidical remains noticed by Mr.
-Rowlands but they have all been cleared (fol. 45) away since his
-time.&nbsp; At Bodlew we experienced a similar
-disappointment.&nbsp; We therefore proceeded towards Llanddeiniol
-church in expectation of <a name="page25"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 25</span>seeing some painted glass said to
-have been presented by the notorious Judge Jeffries whose family
-formerly resided here but nothing of the kind was to be seen or
-indeed anything else for never was I in so dark or dismal a
-place.&nbsp; But in this parish we were fully recompensed for all
-our former disappointments by the sight of the Carnedd at Bryn
-Celli.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p24b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Bryn Celli Ddu Cromlech"
-title=
-"Bryn Celli Ddu Cromlech"
- src="images/p24s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Accompanied by a young farmer who procured a lanthorn for the
-purpose we walked nearly a mile to the south east of the church
-to the spot where in Mr. Rowlands&rsquo; time there were two
-carnedds remaining having two rude stone pillars placed between
-them but these stones have been employed for the purpose of
-building a wall near this place as well as a great part (fol.
-45<i>a</i>) of the western carnedd which is nearly destroyed for
-the same purpose about twenty years ago when the labourers when
-digging towards the center discovered a flat pan about ten inches
-overturned bottom upwards and under it a wedge of gold as they
-pretend the size of the heater of an iron with a piece of wire
-passing through the smaller end of it.&nbsp; The father of the
-young man who was with us happened to be one of the workmen
-employed at the time, but as what they found was immediately
-taken by Colonel Peacock the proprietor of the ground the man
-could give no further account of the circumstance.&nbsp; I should
-imagine that what they called the wedge of gold was no other than
-one of the brazen celts or sacrificial instruments used in former
-times which have been discovered in great numbers in Cornwall and
-(fol. 46) other parts of the kingdom.&nbsp; Whilst a farmer was
-removing some of the stones from the north east side of the
-larger carnedd to employ them in his repairs he came to the mouth
-of a passage covered with a square stone similar to that at
-Pl&acirc;s Newydd, anxious to reap the fruits of his discovery he
-procured a light and crept forward on his hands and knees along
-the dreary vault, when lo! in a chamber at the further end a
-figure in white seemed to forbid his approach.&nbsp; <a
-name="page26"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 26</span>The poor man
-had scarcely power sufficient to crawl backwards out of this den
-of spirits as he imagined however in the course of a few days
-instigated by the hopes of riches and the presence of many
-assistants he made his second <i>entr&eacute;</i> into the cavern
-and finding the white gentleman did not offer to stir he boldly
-went (fol. 46<i>a</i>) forward and discovered the object of his
-apprehensions was no other than a stone pillar about six feet in
-height standing in the centre of the chamber.&nbsp; His former
-consternation could now only be exceeded by his eagerness to see
-what was contained beneath the stone which he shortly overturned
-but treasure there was none, some large human bones lying near
-the pillar sufficiently testifying the purpose for which the
-structure was intended.&nbsp; This is the substance of the
-account we received from the young man whose father was one of
-Colonel Peacock&rsquo;s labourers and on the premises at the time
-of the discovery.&nbsp; The superstition of the common people
-still suppose this to be the habitation of spirits.</p>
-<p>Our two conductors seeming rather to compliment each other
-about precedence I took the lanthorn and crawling for about
-twelve feet along (fol. 47) a narrow passage got into a more
-capacious chamber, my companions followed close at my heels and
-we assembled to the number of six in this singular
-sepulchre.&nbsp; The passage by which we entered is about three
-feet high and a little more in breadth and was formed like that
-we noticed at Pl&acirc;s Newydd with flat stones stuck endways
-and covered with others of still greater magnitude laid
-across.&nbsp; I have still my doubts that if the former was
-further explored it might terminate in a similar vault to what we
-are now speaking of.&nbsp; The height of the chamber is nine
-feet, its form nearly triangular some of the sides being about
-three yards long and four or five feet high.&nbsp; The
-intermediate space up to the roof is filled with stones placed
-one above the other in the manner they build walls but without
-any kind of cement.&nbsp; Two prodigious flat <a
-name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 27</span>stones
-covered the whole one about three yards in length and two in
-breadth (fol. 47<i>a</i>) the other not quite so large.&nbsp;
-These are of a gritty substance not like any stone found in the
-vicinity.&nbsp; The pillar still lying in the cavern is a kind of
-freestone and seems to have been rounded by the tool.&nbsp; On
-examining more minutely this singular structure we were not a
-little annoyed by a tribe of immense spiders who have reigned
-here unmolested for ages the cones containing their young ones
-suspended from different parts of the roof nearly as large as
-those of silk worms.</p>
-<p>I suppose we were in this mansion of the dead half an hour and
-on regaining the open air found the evening shut in, and the
-gloom still heightened by a heavy rain which accompanied us the
-whole way to Moel-don where we arrived very wet to a late dinner
-and went early to bed.</p>
-<h3>(Fol. 48) <span class="smcap">Saturday</span>, <span
-class="smcap">Decr</span>. 4</h3>
-<p>We were up as soon as it was light this morning and having
-taken leave of our new acquaintance who seems destined to
-vegetate on sixty pounds per annum with the charge of three
-churches and a wife into the bargain, we proceeded along the
-shore of the Menai to Llanidan.&nbsp; In our way observed more
-particularly Pant y scraffie the meadow where the Romans are
-supposed to have effected their landing.&nbsp; Mr. Rowland with
-some probability derives y scraffie from the Latin word scaphae a
-kind of flat boats or skiffs best adapted for a shallow
-coast.&nbsp; We stopped a few minutes at Llanidan to look at the
-inside of the church.&nbsp; Mr. Williams senior, who died last
-week at Bath is expected to be interred here.&nbsp; Like Sir
-Benjamin Hamet and Mr. Allen though sprung from a mean origin he
-(fol. 48<i>a</i>) acquired a princely fortune having been first
-agent and then afterwards partner in that lucrative <a
-name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 28</span>concern the
-Parys mine.&nbsp; I took a drawing of Llanidan church and
-afterwards copied an inscription in the church yard bearing date
-1640 the character differs from most others of the same
-period.&nbsp; The interior of the building has little to attract
-notice but Russell copied the following inscription to a Mr. Fitz
-Gerald who appears to have been resident at the old mansion at
-Bodowyr in the beginning of the last century.&nbsp; Some arms of
-a prior date let into the wall near the communion table are I
-believe the same as those placed over the entrance door of the
-house.&nbsp; &ldquo;Here lyeth Price Fitz Gerald of Bodowir
-Gen<sup>t</sup>. son of Edmund Fitz Gerald Gen<sup>t</sup>. and
-Mary Price who died April xii <span
-class="GutSmall">MDCCIX</span> being lineally descended from
-Gerard Oge of Rathrown who was (fol. 51) descended from Mac
-Thomas a younger son of the Earl of Kildare in Ireland aet
-xxxiv.&nbsp; iv. <span class="GutSmall">M</span> 8&nbsp; <span
-class="GutSmall">R I P</span>.&rdquo;&nbsp; The lad who had been
-our conductor yesterday still accompanied us and I confess I was
-not a little pleased with his disinterested attention.&nbsp; We
-took nearly the same route we had done before from Bryn Shenkin
-to Blochti in order to see a cromlech <a name="citation28"></a><a
-href="#footnote28" class="citation">[28]</a> called Maen Llhwyd,
-not having been able to procure any intelligence respecting it
-when here the other day.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p28b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Llanidan Church"
-title=
-"Llanidan Church"
- src="images/p28s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p><a name="page29"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 29</span>The cap
-stone and its three supporters remain still on the spot but have
-long since been thrown prostrate on the ground.&nbsp; If I
-remember right Mr. Rowlands speaks of it as a demolished cromlech
-in his time.&nbsp; The cap stone is nearly circular measuring
-about two yards and a half in diameter and a yard in
-thickness.&nbsp; The two supporters lying near it are about two
-yards each in length, the third we could not take the dimensions
-of (fol. 51<i>a</i>) because the cap stone had fallen over
-it.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p29b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 16. Inscriptions at Llanidan"
-title=
-"No. 16. Inscriptions at Llanidan"
- src="images/p29s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>From Maen Llhwyd we took the direction to Bodowyr which gave
-us an opportunity of seeing Tre Fwry the field in which the Roman
-coins were dug up.&nbsp; <a name="page30"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 30</span>Four or five circular buildings may
-here be traced close to the brook Briant.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p30b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 17. Maen Llhwyd, a demolished Cromlech near Blochty"
-title=
-"No. 17. Maen Llhwyd, a demolished Cromlech near Blochty"
- src="images/p30s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>I believe that most of the stones that form the wall round the
-field were taken from this spot.&nbsp; Having taken a rough
-sketch of the place we proceeded on to Bodowyr.&nbsp; In a
-stubble field rather to the westward of the house we noticed some
-foundations of buildings covering about an acre of ground.&nbsp;
-The country people have a tradition that a large town once stood
-here but so many of the stones have been removed to clear the
-ground it is impossible to form any idea respecting it.</p>
-<p>Proceeding across the fields for three <a
-name="citation30a"></a><a href="#footnote30a"
-class="citation">[30a]</a> miles to the north west we came to a
-farm house called Fron D&ucirc;g <a name="citation30b"></a><a
-href="#footnote30b" class="citation">[30b]</a> where we had been
-directed to enquire for a stone (fol. 54) with an inscription now
-employed as a gatepost on the premises.&nbsp; We soon found the
-spot and we endeavoured to trace the rude characters with as much
-<a name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 31</span>care as
-possible.&nbsp; I imagine the stone was intended for a boundary
-and that the <span class="GutSmall">VI</span> and the letters
-underneath refer to some measurement of property.&nbsp; The other
-part I think is more intelligible and thus read Mad. Filius
-Lluricini erexit hunc lapidem.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p31b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 18. Stone near Frond&ucirc;g, 5 ft. in height"
-title=
-"No. 18. Stone near Frond&ucirc;g, 5 ft. in height"
- src="images/p31s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p32b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 19. Llancadwaladr Church"
-title=
-"No. 19. Llancadwaladr Church"
- src="images/p32s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p33b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 21. Ancient Characters over the Doorway at Llancadwaladr
-Church"
-title=
-"No. 21. Ancient Characters over the Doorway at Llancadwaladr
-Church"
- src="images/p33s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>The farmer living on the spot gave a curious account of the
-stone having once been taken away to be employed in building a
-limekiln by a person in the neighbourhood but he added with great
-earnestness that nothing succeeded with him till he had again
-restored it to its place.&nbsp; It now forms a gate post though
-the gate is hung on the opposite side of the <a
-name="page32"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 32</span>way.&nbsp; We
-here separated from the good natured lad who had attended us so
-many miles and finding him superior to any pecuniary recompence I
-gave (fol. 54<i>a</i>) him a silk handkerchief from my neck which
-he says he shall keep as long as he lives.&nbsp; Before he left
-us he made interest at a farm house for horses to carry us over
-Malltreath <a name="citation32a"></a><a href="#footnote32a"
-class="citation">[32a]</a> a swampy flat covered by the sea at
-high tides.&nbsp; However we passed without difficulty pushing
-straight forwards towards a village church called Treasdreath <a
-name="citation32b"></a><a href="#footnote32b"
-class="citation">[32b]</a> and passed a large stone called Maen
-h&icirc;r.&nbsp; From hence leaving Mr. Meyrick&rsquo;s house a
-large mansion to the left we made the best of our way to
-Llancadwaladr church about two miles distant.&nbsp; We had noted
-down this place from Mr. Rowlands on account of an ancient
-inscription placed there by Cadwalader last king of the Britons
-to commemorate Catamanus or Catwallon his grandfather.&nbsp; The
-characters are very deeply cut on a stone above four feet long
-forming the lintern to the doorway of the church <a
-name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 33</span>and is read
-Catamanus Rex sapientissimus opinatissimus omnium (fol. 58)
-regum.&nbsp; This Cadfan or Catamanus according to Mr. Rowlands
-was chosen King of the Britons anno six hundred and thirteen and
-is said to have been buried in the Isle of Bardsey but in Sir
-John Wynne&rsquo;s pedigree we find an account of a Cadwallader
-of a much later date he being brother of Owen Gwynnedd stiled
-king of Wales.&nbsp; Whether this was the person who founded the
-church or whether it was built as Mr. Rowlands says prior to that
-period the Welsh historians must determine.&nbsp; I only hint
-this because I found nothing in the structure of the building to
-corroborate so remote an antiquity as the chief window to the
-east appears to be about the time of Henry the seventh or eighth
-and on it is some painted glass in the characters of that age
-(fol. 58<i>a</i>).&nbsp; A chapel attached to the north side of
-the church was built anno sixteen hundred sixty six by dame Owen
-as we learnt by the following inscription over the doorway.&nbsp;
-This chapel was built by Anne Owen widdowe, daughter <a
-name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>and
-inheretrix of Richard Williams of Llasd&ucirc;las <a
-name="citation34"></a><a href="#footnote34"
-class="citation">[34]</a> Esq<sup>re</sup> according to the
-direction of her deare husband Hugh Owen Esq<sup>re</sup> sixteen
-hundred sixty one.&nbsp; Under some arms painted on the glass of
-the chapel was, appointed by her deare husband Hugh Owen sonne
-and heir of Will Owen of Bodowen Esq<sup>re</sup> and erected by
-his dear wife Anne.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p34b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 20. Doorway at Llancadwaladr Church with an Inscription to
-the Memory of Hugh Owen, Esq."
-title=
-"No. 20. Doorway at Llancadwaladr Church with an Inscription to
-the Memory of Hugh Owen, Esq."
- src="images/p34s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Under a monument erected against the east wall of the church
-where a knight in armour and a lady <a name="page35"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 35</span>are kneeling before an altar are the
-following curious lines containing more of loyalty than poesy
-(fol. 59)&mdash;</p>
-<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">To the memory of Hugh
-Owen Esq<sup>re</sup> of Bodowen who died the twenty first of
-October sixteen hundred fifty nine.</p>
-<p>Religion, learning, friends, poor have lost<br />
-A noble patron who maintained them at his cost<br />
-His country&rsquo;s patriot most firme to loyalty<br />
-And for being loyal suffer&rsquo;d infinitely<br />
-With foes would not cologue nor his prince betray<br />
-But livde his faithful subject every day.</p>
-<p>This monument was made by Anne his beloved wife the daughter
-and inheritrix of Richard Williams of Llasd&ucirc;las
-Esq<sup>re</sup> in memory of her deare husband sixteen hundred
-sixty.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Mr. Meyricke the owner of Bodowen is first repairing his
-family chapel on the opposite side.&nbsp; The original edifice as
-appears by a stone lying in the church was built by Richard
-Meyricke Esq<sup>re</sup> anno sixteen hundred forty (fol.
-59<i>a</i>) and the vault underneath by his great grandson Owen
-Meyricke Esq<sup>re</sup> seventeen hundred thirty.&nbsp; The
-evening was closing in fast before we had finished our
-observations at Llancadwaladr.</p>
-<p>A dreary walk of two miles over the sands to Aberffraw was
-rendered still more disagreeable by an incessant and heavy rain
-and we had no small degree of anxiety the whole of our walk lest
-we should be still more unfortunate in not gaining admittance at
-the public house as we understood that a number of Westleans with
-Mr. Charles at their head were to have a meeting the following
-day in the village.&nbsp; However on our arrival at the house we
-found a good welcome and much better quarters than we had reason
-to expect.&nbsp; After a comfortable supper of boiled rabbit we
-retired to rest.</p>
-<h3><a name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 36</span>(fol.
-61) <span class="smcap">Sunday</span>, <span
-class="smcap">Decr</span>. 5</h3>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p36b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 22. Cromlech at Henblas"
-title=
-"No. 22. Cromlech at Henblas"
- src="images/p36s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p37b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 23. Cerigainwyn Church"
-title=
-"No. 23. Cerigainwyn Church"
- src="images/p37s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>This morning after breakfast the weather being tolerably fair
-we walked to Henbl&acirc;s in the parish of Llangristiolus in
-expectation of seeing a cromlech mentioned in our list.&nbsp; In
-our way thither we skirted a lake <a name="citation36a"></a><a
-href="#footnote36a" class="citation">[36a]</a> about two miles in
-circumference and noticed large flocks of wild ducks and other
-acquatic birds near the shore but on our approach they swam
-immediately to the middle of the water.&nbsp; About a mile and a
-half beyond we passed a large house called Trefyla <a
-name="citation36b"></a><a href="#footnote36b"
-class="citation">[36b]</a> belonging to Mr. Evans and at
-Henbl&acirc;s another the property of his sister but at present
-only tenanted by a gardener who accompanied us over the fields to
-the object we came in search of.&nbsp; We here found three
-immense stones two of them above fifteen feet high and nearly the
-same in width standing upright in the ground, another of a (fol.
-61<i>a</i>) flatter form leant against them.&nbsp; I cannot
-imagine there is anything artificial in the arrangements of these
-ponderous bodies but that their <a name="page37"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 37</span>position is the one they were placed
-in by the hand of nature.&nbsp; Whether they ever were or were
-not employed by the Druids I do not pretend to determine.&nbsp;
-And here we may observe the word cromlech is applied by the Welsh
-indiscriminately to stones either natural or artificial if they
-are only found inclining in such a direction that there is a
-hollow underneath.&nbsp; The largest stone in the pass of
-Llanberis which not many years ago rolled from the heights above
-obtains the name of cromlech vawr and the same may be observed in
-many other instances.&nbsp; On returning from this spot the
-gardener who seemed to be an intelligent man pointed to a rising
-ground to the southward about two miles off which he said was
-called (fol. 62) Ester <a name="citation37"></a><a
-href="#footnote37" class="citation">[37]</a> mon eglwr where are
-still to be traced the foundations of an ancient fortress and
-tradition says a lofty watch tower once stood on this eminence
-commanding the <a name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-38</span>circumference of the Island.&nbsp; From hence a causeway
-ran across the low ground towards a large carnedd wherein were
-discovered many human bones.&nbsp; Not far from hence he himself
-picked up a piece of silver coin which he had given to a lady in
-the neighbourhood.&nbsp; As we had received intelligence of some
-old characters cut in the wall of Cerigainwyn <a
-name="citation38"></a><a href="#footnote38"
-class="citation">[38]</a> Church we walked thither and were glad
-to find something better worthy of notice than the cromlech we
-had quitted for here are still visible some large Saxon
-characters cut very deep in the stone of the clochti or
-belfry.&nbsp; In order to <a name="page39"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 39</span>transcribe them more perfectly I
-procured a ladder and mounted aloft but this (fol. 62<i>a</i>)
-enterprize was attended with no small difficulty for being
-obliged to employ both hands while sketching and the ladder lying
-very slanting I could only depend upon the toes of my boots for
-support against the wall.&nbsp; Whilst thus situated there came
-on a violent storm of sleet and hail which so benumbed my hands I
-hurried the business more than I otherwise should have done but
-still I think I have the drawing pretty exact.&nbsp; These rude
-Saxon characters appear to be coeval with the building <a
-name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>and probably
-were designed to perpetuate the name of its founder and the date
-of the foundation but when <a name="page41"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 41</span>the original edifice grew to decay
-they were taken out of their original order and placed just as
-they happened to come into use in the building the clochti so
-that many of the letters are lost or inverted.&nbsp; I think I am
-authorized to make this conjecture by the (fol. 69) present
-appearance of the <span class="GutSmall">U</span> and the <span
-class="GutSmall">S</span> which are evidently reversed.&nbsp;
-Other letters are also wanting to make good the
-inscription.&nbsp; The font within the church is without doubt
-equally ancient as it retains the Runic lines and ornaments which
-were used among the northern nations of the sixth and seventh
-century.&nbsp; Of this I made three drawings.&nbsp; The clerk a
-surly Jewish looking fellow seemed at first inclined to be very
-impudent, but I did not neglect to fee him for the same reason
-the Angel did the Miser in Parnell&rsquo;s beautiful poem of the
-Hermit namely to make him more civil and attentive to other
-travellers should curiosity ever lead them to this spot.&nbsp;
-The clouds now gathering round us and everything seeming to
-portend bad weather we made the best of our way to Aberffraw
-having altogether walked twelve miles.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p38b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 24. Clochty at Caregainwin Church"
-title=
-"No. 24. Clochty at Caregainwin Church"
- src="images/p38s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p39b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 25. South Side of the Clocty at Caregainwen Church"
-title=
-"No. 25. South Side of the Clocty at Caregainwen Church"
- src="images/p39s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p40ab.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 26. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church"
-title=
-"No. 26. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church"
- src="images/p40as.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p40bb.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 27. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church"
-title=
-"No. 27. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church"
- src="images/p40bs.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p41b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 28. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church"
-title=
-"No. 28. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church"
- src="images/p41s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<h3><a name="page42"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 42</span>(fol.
-69<i>a</i>) <span class="smcap">Monday</span>, <span
-class="smcap">Decr</span>. 6</h3>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p42b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 29. [Arch in Aberffraw Church.]"
-title=
-"No. 29. [Arch in Aberffraw Church.]"
- src="images/p42s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>We found there was so much to be seen in the neighbourhood of
-Aberffraw that we determined on prolonging our stay for another
-day at our present station.&nbsp; About nine attended by the same
-person who went with us yesterday we walked to the parish church
-which outwardly resembles other Welsh buildings of the kind but
-on entering we observed a neat turned Saxon arch to the west end
-underneath the clochti an evident token that this part of the
-building was of a more ancient date and most likely erected
-during the times the Saxons held the Island which was for above a
-century.&nbsp; Aberffraw afterwards became the residence of the
-North Welsh princes and we may suppose it was a place of the
-greatest consequence in the Island though now it scarcely
-deserves the title of a village.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page43"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 43</span>
-<a href="images/p43b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 31. Interior of Llangwyfan Church"
-title=
-"No. 31. Interior of Llangwyfan Church"
- src="images/p43s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>(fol. 73)&nbsp; Not far from the church they point out a field
-where the palace of Llewelyn stood but no traces remain the
-ground having been cleared quite to the foundation.&nbsp;
-Proceeding in a northwesterly direction for a mile and a half we
-came to the little church of Llangwyfan.&nbsp; This is erected on
-a rocky peninsula jutting out into the sea and is an Island at
-high water so that not unfrequently the congregation are
-interrupted in their devotion by the rapid approach of the
-waves.&nbsp; From its exposed situation to the weather and from
-the spray of the sea beating against its walls the stones in
-parts are fretted like a honeycomb which gives it a most
-venerable appearance though from the shape of the windows at the
-east end I should not suppose it was above four centuries
-standing.&nbsp; Whilst I was sketching the font and part of the
-interior Russell copied a curious (fol. 73<i>a</i>) epitaph to
-the memory of Mr. Woode written about the year sixteen hundred
-two an age remarkable for its false wit and <a
-name="page44"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 44</span>punning
-indeed must have been very prevalent to have found its way to so
-remote a quarter as this.&nbsp; Inscribed on a brass plate let
-into a stone slab is the following epitaph:</p>
-<blockquote><p>Felix ter felix marmor quia nobile
-lignu<sup>m</sup><br />
-Quo caret infelix insula marmor habes<br />
-Owen et patriae vivens fuit utile lignu<sup>m</sup><br />
-Et lignu<sup>m</sup> vitae post sua fata Deo<br />
-Filius ista meo posui monumenta parenti<br />
-Sic precor et tecum nomen [et] Owen idem<br />
-In obitum Oweni Woode armigeri qui<br />
-Obiit 6 die April A&deg; Dni 1602 &AElig;tat 70.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p44b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 32"
-title=
-"No. 32"
- src="images/p44s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>(fol. 76)&nbsp; In our way back we collected some beautiful
-specimens of sea weed and a few shells and passing by a large
-mansion <a name="citation44a"></a><a href="#footnote44a"
-class="citation">[44a]</a> house the former habitation of this
-Mr. Woode but now rented of Mr. Meyricke by a farmer we walked a
-mile farther to Mynnedd <a name="citation44b"></a><a
-href="#footnote44b" class="citation">[44b]</a> Cnwc having
-understood there was a cromlech to be seen there.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p45b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 33. Remains of a Carnedd at Mynydd-y-Cnwc"
-title=
-"No. 33. Remains of a Carnedd at Mynydd-y-Cnwc"
- src="images/p45s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>M&#375;nnedd Cnwc is a promontory running two or <a
-name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 45</span>three hundred
-yards into the sea and forming the northern boundary of a small
-bay called Port Tre Castel to the south of which on a
-semicircular rock about fifty yards over jutting into the bay we
-observed a deep trench and mound cut towards the land side and a
-square earth work of smaller dimensions a little beyond this
-doubtless was the work of invaders on their first landing.&nbsp;
-Instead of a cromlech at M&#375;nnedd Cnwc we found the vestiges
-of a large carnedd many of the flat stones of the cist faen or
-chamber are still remaining but the small ones have been almost
-all removed to build a wall close at hand. (fol.
-77<i>a</i>)&nbsp; On another fork of the peninsula about an
-hundred yards distant we observed the traces of another carnedd
-of much smaller dimensions.&nbsp; From the nature of their
-situation, the bay, the earth work &amp;c. it is not improbable
-to suppose that an engagement here took place with the natives
-wherein some principal officers <a name="page46"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 46</span>were slain and interred on the
-spot.&nbsp; A natural cavern in the rock penetrates for some
-distance in the peninsula but it being high tide we could not
-satisfy our curiosity in examining it.&nbsp; The country people
-have a strange idea of spirits haunting these carnedds and
-frequently see lights (Ignis fatuus) hovering round the
-point.&nbsp; They moreover report that an iron boot was dug up
-not long ago full of money but on further enquiry the money
-vanished and so did the boot too.&nbsp; By the description of a
-man who had seen it I believe it was no other than a gambado
-belonging to Mr. Woode or some of his descendants.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p46b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 34. Caer Cromlech in the Parish of Llanfaelog"
-title=
-"No. 34. Caer Cromlech in the Parish of Llanfaelog"
- src="images/p46s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>(fol. 80) Hence continuing our walk to the northward we passed
-through the parish of Llanfaelog and about half a mile beyond the
-church came to a very perfect cromlech. <a
-name="citation46"></a><a href="#footnote46"
-class="citation">[46]</a>&nbsp; The cap stone is rather of an
-oblong shape and measured sixteen feet long, six wide, and three
-thick.&nbsp; It only rested upon three supporters each about
-three feet high although there were four <a
-name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 47</span>placed in the
-ground.&nbsp; Near the cromlech were lying two large stones, the
-one seventeen feet long and three thick.&nbsp; Having made two
-drawings on the spot we were invited by a country woman to take
-some refreshment at her house, and whilst she went forward to
-prepare for our reception we walked about half a mile further
-towards the river Crighill <a name="citation47a"></a><a
-href="#footnote47a" class="citation">[47a]</a> to see another
-cromlech. <a name="citation47b"></a><a href="#footnote47b"
-class="citation">[47b]</a> This stood on low ground quite in a
-swamp the cap stone like that at Maen Llhwyd has been thrown down
-and its supporters lie near it.&nbsp; Also many other stones from
-three to five feet long to the number of thirty lie (fol.
-80<i>a</i>) scattered in all directions around it.&nbsp; Having
-hastily sketched this remain we followed the direction of a
-person who persuaded us there were some very ancient letters on a
-stone placed in a wall about an hundred yards distant.&nbsp;
-Above a quarter of an hour was employed to no purpose in the
-search.&nbsp; At length assisted by some men who came <a
-name="page48"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 48</span>from a
-neighbouring field whose zeal in the business was augmented by
-the promise of a shilling we discovered the valuable antique
-which had been employed as a land mark and traced the letters o.
-w. one thousand six hundred and sixty four very legibly on the
-surface.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p47b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 36. Demolished Cromlech near the River Crighyll"
-title=
-"No. 36. Demolished Cromlech near the River Crighyll"
- src="images/p47s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>How many hundreds would have laughed at the distress of the
-young antiquarians on this occasion but as the more learned of
-that venerable society are continually exposed to similar or
-greater mistakes we must find shelter from the shafts of ridicule
-under the shade of (fol. 82) their protecting wings.&nbsp; At the
-farm house we found some white bread and cheese and butter milk
-placed on a clean cloth waiting our arrival and returning many
-thanks to our kind entertainer who was as pretty as she was
-obliging we took our leave and proceeded towards a barn in the
-neighbourhood where with the assistance of a lanthorn I traced
-the characters <span class="GutSmall">NALIS</span> deeply cut in
-a stone now serving as the lintern to a small window but said to
-have been taken from a field near the spot.&nbsp; I think these
-characters are Roman as the style of the <span
-class="GutSmall">L</span> cut obliquely much resembles what I
-have noticed on some inscriptions in the north of England made a
-short time before the Romans quitted the island.&nbsp; Returned
-to Aberffraw across a large warren apparently well stocked with
-rabbits.&nbsp; They are sold in these parts for fourpence apiece,
-fowls are also equally cheap, so that with the assistance of fish
-the inhabitants can fare very luxuriantly without butcher&rsquo;s
-meat.&nbsp; A farmer overtook (fol. 82<i>a</i>) and accompanied
-us to Aberffraw.&nbsp; In the course of conversation he said it
-was this day seventeen years being the Carnarvon fair on which
-the passage boat was lost and eighty people perished in the Menai
-most of whom were inhabitants of the island by which sad
-catastrophy nearly every family had to lament the loss of some
-relative.</p>
-<p>In the evening we received a visit from Mr. Rowlands curate of
-Aberffraw, on enquiring of him what <a name="page49"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 49</span>was become of the various coins which
-had been dug up in these parts of the island he said that most of
-them had been taken to Mr. Meyricke who he was sure would be very
-happy in shewing them to us, but we were so apprehensive of being
-detained by the weather at this time of the year that we could
-not venture to spend the following day at Aberffraw though the
-civility and attention we experienced from our hostess would have
-been a strong inducement at a more favourable season.</p>
-<h3>(fol. 83) <span class="smcap">Tuesday</span>, <span
-class="smcap">Decr</span>. 7</h3>
-<p>Having paid a very reasonable bill at Aberffraw we quitted it
-this morning about ten and pursued the same track we had done
-yesterday for about three miles when crossing the Crighyll and
-traversing a bleak heath rendered still more unpleasant by heavy
-storms of wind and rain we arrived at Llanfihangle yn nhewlyn <a
-name="citation49"></a><a href="#footnote49"
-class="citation">[49]</a> expecting to find some ancient remains
-in this parish.&nbsp; We only saw some large loose stones upon
-the summit of the rocks which seem to have little claim to the
-interference of the Druids to place them in their present
-position.&nbsp; On enquiring at a cottage near this spot whether
-there were any carnedds or chromlechs to be seen we exposed
-ourselves to the ridicule of two old women who enjoyed a hearty
-laugh at our walking in the rain to hunt after stones.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p50b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 37. Praesaddfed Cromleche"
-title=
-"No. 37. Praesaddfed Cromleche"
- src="images/p50s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p51b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 39. Praesaddfed Cromleche"
-title=
-"No. 39. Praesaddfed Cromleche"
- src="images/p51s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Skirting two large pools of water we pursued our way to
-Bodedern situated on the turnpike road about eight miles from
-Holyhead.&nbsp; This place did not prepossess us much in its
-favour as it seemed to promise but sorry accommodations (fol.
-83<i>a</i>).&nbsp; However we were obliged to put up with them
-unless we made up our minds to reach Holyhead which would have
-thrown us nearly a day backward in our march.&nbsp; Having
-ordered the best the house could afford for dinner we walked
-nearly a <a name="page50"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-50</span>mile along the turnpike road in the direction of Gwindy
-<a name="citation50a"></a><a href="#footnote50a"
-class="citation">[50a]</a> when turning off into a field to the
-left we approached one of the finest and most finished cromlechs
-<a name="citation50b"></a><a href="#footnote50b"
-class="citation">[50b]</a> we have yet seen in the island the cap
-stone measuring four yards and a half long four yards wide and
-two yards thick <a name="citation50c"></a><a href="#footnote50c"
-class="citation">[50c]</a> its three supporters each about a yard
-and a half high.&nbsp; Indeed there is a fourth nearly of the
-same height but it does not touch the stone above.&nbsp; Under
-this cromlech we were informed a whole family who had been
-ejected from their habitation sought shelter during the last
-winter.&nbsp; There was another cromlech close at hand but the
-cap stone had been forced down and rests in a slanting direction
-against the supporters the top stone of this measured three yards
-long and two yards and (fol. 87) a half wide and its supporters
-nearly two yards high.&nbsp; An old mansion near the spot was we
-understand the residence of Miss Buckley the lady who married
-King <a name="page51"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-51</span>master of the ceremonies at Bath.&nbsp; The premises
-seem to be very much out of repair having been untenanted for
-some time.&nbsp; Returned about four to our homely dinner of
-bacon and greens.&nbsp; In the evening after retracing my
-sketches I took a copy of a plan that was in the room of the
-intended bridge over the Menai.&nbsp; This if it ever is put into
-execution will be a stupendous work as it will be nearly half a
-mile long and built pretty strong to resist the tides.&nbsp; On
-the twenty-ninth of April 1785 a meeting was first held for the
-purpose of consulting about it at St. Alban&rsquo;s tavern when
-the following resolutions passed: first, that the erecting a
-carriage bridge over the streights of the Menai will be of great
-public utility&mdash;second&mdash;that it appears from the
-reports and concurrent opinions of several able engineers that
-the erecting a timber bridge upon piles with three swivel bridges
-will not be detrimental (fol. 87<i>a</i>) to the navigation of
-the said streights and therefore we approve of a bridge being
-erected on <a name="page52"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-52</span>that plan, third, that we will support the application
-made to parliament for an act for building a bridge across the
-said streights agreeable to the above plan.&nbsp; N. Bailey,
-chairman.&nbsp; Afterwards follow the signature of the noblemen
-and gentlemen.&nbsp; Here we see the first intention was to have
-constructed one of wood with three swivel bridges for the
-convenience of vessels passing to and fro.&nbsp; Now according to
-the present plan it is to be of stone with three center arches
-sufficiently wide and high to permit a ship to pass with all her
-sails set.&nbsp; God knows whether this plan will ever be brought
-to perfection but in this mechanical age we can scarcely wonder
-at the projection of any enterprize however vast or
-difficult.&nbsp; If we were not pleased with our fare much less
-were we with our sleeping apartments at this place the upper
-story was (fol. 89) without ceilings running clear up to the roof
-being divided into stalls rather than chambers by deal boards
-wherein are placed the different beds for the family and
-strangers.&nbsp; We slept in separate beds it is true, but every
-word that was said, nor ought that was done could pass unheard
-for all was as manifest to the ear at least as though we had been
-in the same dormontory.&nbsp; I was unfortunately situated, in
-having some snorers close to my bed head, and the deal not being
-above half an inch thick I may literally say they were close at
-my ear.&nbsp; Different kinds of music resounded from different
-parts of the room.&nbsp; I bore all this harmonious combination
-of sounds with the philosophy of a stoic till the clock struck
-three, when my next neighbour played so violently on the double
-bass I lost all patience and began knocking with equal violence
-on the partition between us.&nbsp; This not only awoke him but
-every part of the house was soon in motion and the host got up
-grumbling and swearing and called the people about him to go and
-(fol. 89<i>a</i>) see who it was who knocked at the door for they
-imagined it was some traveller who wished to gain
-admittance.&nbsp; In the course of an hour when the tumult <a
-name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>was subsided
-I dropped asleep and was roused by our guide whom I had ordered
-to call me at half past six.</p>
-<h3><span class="smcap">Wednesday</span>, <span
-class="smcap">Decr</span>. 8</h3>
-<p>We were not sorry to leave this place as soon as it was light
-paying much higher for our miserable entertainment than we had
-done at any place in the island.&nbsp; First directed our steps
-along the turnpike to Llandr&ucirc;gan, <a
-name="citation53"></a><a href="#footnote53"
-class="citation">[53]</a> situated near Gwindy the halfway house
-between Beaumaris and Holyhead our host having given us to
-understand there was a very ancient stone near the church which
-many travellers went to look at but few could read the
-inscription.&nbsp; He himself among the rest although he said he
-was a good schollar having been clerk of Bodedern many years
-could (fol. 90) make nothing of it.&nbsp; On arriving at the spot
-we found a flat tomb stone to the right of the entrance door
-bearing the following lines legibly cut on its surface:</p>
-<blockquote><p>Reader in me doe thou thyself behold<br />
-Wilome full hie but now full low in mould<br />
-Bodychens heyr I was my name was John<br />
-The second who that sirname fixt upon<br />
-Credit nor wealth nor friends I did not lacke<br />
-Heare dead and dust loe all doe me forsake<br />
-The day draws on when God me hence shall raise<br />
-Amongst his chosen his great name to praise.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>On the side nearest the church door:</p>
-<blockquote><p>Obiit apud Bodechen decimo die Junii incarnationis
-milessimo sexto centessimo tricessimo nono aetatis suae
-septuagesimo.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>On the opposite side:</p>
-<blockquote><p>Moestissima uxor Margaretta monumentum hoc
-delectessimo conjugi piae memoriae amoris ergo posuit vicessimo
-die Martii anno milessimo sexgentessimo quadragessimo.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Though we copied the inscription being on the spot <a
-name="page54"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 54</span>we did not
-think it deserving a digression of three miles to read especially
-as we had so much to perform before night.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image55" href="images/p55b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 41. Stone in Llantrisant Parish"
-title=
-"No. 41. Stone in Llantrisant Parish"
- src="images/p55s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Hence we hastened forward to Llantrisant not without some
-apprehension in being equally deceived in an ancient inscription
-we learnt was to be seen there cut on the stone <a
-name="citation54"></a><a href="#footnote54"
-class="citation">[54]</a> of a gateway.&nbsp; On enquiring at a
-farm house we found it had been taken up from the gate and placed
-in a kind of shed as a block to chop sticks on.&nbsp; This
-intelligence conveyed through our interpreter did not quiet our
-fears for the fate of the inscription, however towards the place
-we went and fortunately found the stone lying with the
-inscription downwards (fol. 92).&nbsp; On the edge was engraved
-Aroe lapidibus in the manner I have shewn in my sketch.&nbsp;
-Having with the assistance of four stout fellows turned the stone
-I traced as nearly as I could the characters as they appear in my
-drawing.&nbsp; The stone was of a lozenge form about six feet
-high and three wide, and I conjecture was first of all employed
-by the Romans as a direction across the country, as the words
-Aroe lapidibus to the stones of Aroe seem to imply.&nbsp; The
-second inscription was probably cut some centuries after in
-monkish times as appears by the words moribus disciplinae et
-sapientiae coming together in the conclusion of the
-sentence.&nbsp; Indeed many of the upright pillars we have met
-with in the island I imagine were intended as directions or
-boundaries and not at all connected with druidical worship as Mr.
-Rowlands seems to suppose.&nbsp; The day by this time being far
-advanced we exerted ourselves as much as the country would (fol.
-92<i>a</i>) allow to gain Llanbabo church four miles distant in
-sufficient time to copy an ancient stone dug up here in the reign
-of Charles the second bearing the effigies of Pabo post Prid or
-Prince Pabo the support of Britain who flourished about the year
-four hundred sixty and who is said to have <a
-name="page56"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 56</span>built and to
-have been buried in this church.&nbsp; His effigies are designed
-on a flat stone resembling free stone, the figure crowned with a
-sceptre in its right hand and a close garment down to its
-feet.&nbsp; On the edge of the stone these characters are cut hic
-jacet Pabo post Prid the remainder is very much defaced but I
-should read it qui edificavit hanc ecclesiam.</p>
-<p>For my own part I cannot but think that the whole of this is
-some ages later than Pabo&rsquo;s time as both the sculpture and
-the formation of the letters are those of the thirteenth or
-fourteenth century.&nbsp; We know that in Roman catholic
-countries it is very common for the priests to preserve (fol. 95)
-the effigies of their founders and benefactors in their churches
-and monasteries and might not this have been presented to the
-church by some rich family in the neighbourhood by way of
-acquiring the favour of the sainted patron.&nbsp; The letters
-here noticed very much resemble those I have copied from the
-monument in Bettws y Coed church in Carnarvonshire.&nbsp; I took
-as perfect a drawing as my time would allow and afterwards just
-sketched the entrance door and three uncooth and at present
-whitewashed visages let into the stone above and on each side of
-it.&nbsp; These are of such rude workmanship that I should rather
-attribute them to the time of Pabo than the subject we have just
-considered.&nbsp; A kind of waving line over the arch of the door
-as described in my sketch is I conjecture no less antique.&nbsp;
-The church itself differs in no other respect from the generality
-of Welsh buildings, and the parish is so scattered that not above
-two houses are to be seen in any direction.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p57b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 45. Stones in Llanfechell Parish"
-title=
-"No. 45. Stones in Llanfechell Parish"
- src="images/p57s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>From hence to Llanfechell we experienced a dirty swampy and
-fatiguing walk (fol. 95<i>a</i>) of four miles and the
-termination of it was rendered still more unfortunate as we found
-the public house so indifferent we could not think of spending
-the night there accordingly we hastened by the light of the moon
-to examine some stones and a cromlech about half a mile beyond
-leaving our interpreter who seemed to be <a
-name="page57"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 57</span>pretty well
-tired of antique hunting to eat his dinner, in the interim the
-host of the public house officiating in his stead.&nbsp; Under
-his guidance we first visited three upright stones standing on a
-rising ground placed three paces asunder forming an exact
-triangle.&nbsp; They were about seven feet high and two feet and
-a half wide.&nbsp; These I make no doubt were intended as a
-direction to travellers as they might be seen from every rising
-hillock in the neighbourhood and also from the coast, we could
-not learn that they were called by any particular name if it had
-sounded anything like aroe it would have thrown some light upon
-the inscription in Llantrisant parish.</p>
-<p>From hence passing by an old (fol. 98) mansion named cromlech
-now tenanted by a farmer we came to the spot where many large
-stones were lying scattered promiscuously on the ground and one
-nearly square measuring nine feet across leaning against some
-uprights about six feet high.&nbsp; From the appearance of this
-place I should rather imagine that it had been <a
-name="page58"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 58</span>the interior
-or cistfaen of a carnedd and this opinion seems somewhat
-confirmed by the accounts of the common people who remember great
-quantities of stone having been removed to form a wall.&nbsp;
-Returning to the public house we made a meal on bread and cheese
-and afterwards procuring the key of the church we examined its
-interior.&nbsp; The font is square having a double Saxon arch
-rudely carved on each face.&nbsp; Over the communion table is a
-Latin inscription to Mr. Humphreys Rector of the parish which we
-transcribed:</p>
-<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">Cineribus sacrum<br />
-H. S. E.<br />
-(fol. 98<i>a</i>) <span class="smcap">Robertus Humphreys</span>
-M.A.<br />
-vir eruditus perquam et modestus<br />
-Rei medicae<br />
-praesertim botanicae apprime gnarus<br />
-Praxique claruit<br />
-hujus ecclesiae per tria et amplius lustra<br />
-<a name="page59"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 59</span>Extitit
-Rector<br />
-obiit <span class="GutSmall">XIII</span> id Junii anno <span
-class="GutSmall">MDCCIX</span><br />
-&AElig;tatis suae <span class="GutSmall">LVIII</span></p>
-<p>Dnus dnus Ricardus Nicom.&nbsp; Bulkeley pro digno qui haberet
-defuncto hoc positum voluit</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p58b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Llanfechell Church; Font, Llanfechell Church"
-title=
-"Llanfechell Church; Font, Llanfechell Church"
- src="images/p58s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>A long five miles walk brought us to Amlwch where with some
-little difficulty (the hostess not admiring our pedestrian
-appearance) we gained admittance, a good supper and comfortable
-sleeping appartments which indeed were not a little refreshing
-after (fol. 101) the labours of the day and the adventures of the
-preceeding night.</p>
-<h3><span class="smcap">Thursday</span>, <span
-class="smcap">Decr</span>. 9</h3>
-<p>Amlwch is a long straggling place and may contain from four to
-five thousand inhabitants though before the working of the Parys
-mines there were not an hundred tenements in the parish.&nbsp;
-Besides two or three good houses a church has been lately erected
-by the copper company on a neat substantial plan and a quay
-formed near the smelting houses where ships of two or three
-hundred tons burthen may take in their lading.&nbsp; These we
-passed in our way to Llanelian church this morning which we had
-been directed to examine as one of the most curious structures in
-the island.&nbsp; This church differs from most others in North
-Wales in having a kind of spire rising from a square tower.&nbsp;
-I cannot say that this edition is very elegant it being coated
-all the way up with small slate.&nbsp; The body of the church is
-ornamented with battlements, pinnacles, and (fol. 101<i>a</i>)
-buttresses in the style of our parish churches built about the
-time of Henry the seventh.&nbsp; Having procured the key we found
-the interior still retaining its catholic collection of saints
-and apostles, and the seats, chancel, and communion-table, were
-decorated with a profusion of carving in oak.&nbsp; On the latter
-on a kind of scroll we read non nobis Domine non nobis sed nomine
-tuo.&nbsp; Beneath the arches <a name="page60"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 60</span>which supported the roof of the
-building were six grotesque little figures, playing on the
-bagpipe, pibcorn, and other instruments, their appearance is
-rendered still more ridiculous by their being painted in black
-coats, yellow waistcoats, and white wigs.&nbsp; In a small chapel
-attached to the south east end of the church (which is said to
-have been the original edifice founded by Saint Elian) there is a
-kind of semicircular chest or cabinet made of oak into which
-whoever can enter and turn himself round is sure in the opinion
-of the vulgar to live out the year but if he fails it will (fol.
-102) prove fatal to him.&nbsp; People from all parts come at
-stated periods to try their destiny in this absurd way.&nbsp;
-There is also an old chest well secured by bolts bars and nails
-in another part of the church having a small slit in the lid
-through which the country people are said to drop a piece of
-money uttering their maledictions against their enemies the black
-gentleman is thus feed to work evil against the offender, this <a
-name="page61"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 61</span>uncharitable
-and unchristian custom if true seems almost too bad even for
-monkish times much worse to be continued now.&nbsp; Having viewed
-these relics of superstition we ascended by a circular tower to
-the roof [of] the church which is very nicely leaded.&nbsp; On
-enquiring afterwards of a Welsh clergyman why Llanelian was so
-much better taken care of than other parish churches I found that
-some lands had been appropriated by one of the Welsh princes
-centuries ago by way of expiation for his sins to keep it in
-constant repair, this accounts for its having a steeple, being
-leaded, &amp;c. &amp;c.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p60b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 46. Llanelian Church"
-title=
-"No. 46. Llanelian Church"
- src="images/p60s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>After sketching the building we returned (fol. 102<i>a</i>) to
-Amlwch, on our way thither obtained a very clear view of the Isle
-of Man lying only sixteen leagues to the north of this
-coast.&nbsp; Could we have insured a week&rsquo;s fine weather we
-should not have hesitated an instant including that island in our
-circuit as I have long wished to satisfy myself respecting some
-ancient inscriptions at Pielstown.&nbsp; I understand there is
-almost daily communication through the herring boats which come
-here to dispose of their cargoes.&nbsp; Having taken a slight
-repast at Amlwch we proceeded to the Parys mountain which of late
-years has enriched not only many individuals but the nation at
-large.&nbsp; It lies about a mile south of the town and though
-denominated a mountain, in Carnarvonshire at least would be
-deemed a very inconsiderable hillock.&nbsp; The approach to it is
-dreary in the extreme for the sulphurious steams issuing from the
-copper kilns have destroyed every germ of vegetation in the
-neighbourhood.&nbsp; When we had gained (fol. 103) the higher
-ground the uninteresting and gloomy prospect we had hitherto
-observed was at once converted into the most lively and active
-scene.&nbsp; Hundreds of men, women, and children, appeared
-busily occupied in the different branches of this vast concern
-and the bustle of the metropolis prevailed amidst the dreary
-recesses of the Druids.&nbsp; The produce of the mountain belongs
-to two different companies <a name="page62"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 62</span>one called the Parys Mine shared
-between Lord Uxbridge, Mr. Hughes, and Mr. Williams.&nbsp; The
-other, the Mona mine I believe is Lord Uxbridge&rsquo;s
-alone.</p>
-<p>Our servant having delivered a message from the people of the
-inn to one of the overseers of the Parys mine, he accompanied us
-over the works.&nbsp; A stranger not acquainted with mining
-concerns cannot do better than take his first lesson at this
-place.&nbsp; There being no necessity of descending into
-subterrianean abodes to grope out for information by candle
-light, incommoded by damp, dirt, and foul vapours, for all is
-here worked open to the day and by taking his station in one
-(fol. 103<i>a</i>) point he can command a view of the whole
-proceedings from the beginning to the end and receive every
-satisfactory explanation almost without moving from the
-spot.&nbsp; We first were conducted to some wooden stages erected
-on the edge of the bason if I may so employ that term to an
-immense excavation of an oval form about two hundred yards long,
-half so much in width and eighty in depth which has been hollowed
-out in the course of twenty years, these wooden stages are each
-supplied with a windlass for the purpose of drawing up the ore
-from the bottom.&nbsp; On looking down from hence to the chasm
-beneath, we saw the rock rich with ore of a light gold colour
-which the miners were busily employed in boring, blasting,
-breaking with sledge hammers, wheeling the fragments to appointed
-places beneath the stages filling the baskets which were hauled
-up as before mentioned by the windlass.&nbsp; There might be from
-twelve to fourteen stages erected for this purpose in different
-(fol. 104) parts of the mine.</p>
-<p>As soon as the commodity is landed it is delivered to a number
-of women and children to be broken into smaller pieces.&nbsp; The
-good ore is then separated from that of an inferior sort and
-carried to kilns to be baked.&nbsp; The sulphur forms in what is
-called flour brimstone by the chymists on the top of the
-oven.&nbsp; <a name="page63"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-63</span>This is afterwards collected, melted in large cauldrons
-and formed into round moulds for sale.</p>
-<p>We understood that the better kind of ore was sent to Neath
-and other places, and the inferior to the smelting houses at
-Amlwch.&nbsp; In walking round the premises we crossed a small
-stream running into some square reservoirs, this water was so
-impregnated with copper that merely the dipping a key in for two
-or three seconds rendered it entirely the colour of that
-metal.&nbsp; The square reservoirs above mentioned was stored
-with all the old iron that could be collected which are turned
-monthly the coperas on them sinking in a kind (fol. 104<i>a</i>)
-of red slime to the bottom.</p>
-<p>At stated times the pits are emptied and the produce when
-hardened becomes equally valuable to the richest ore in the
-mines.&nbsp; We may be sure that every drop of this precious
-stream is turned to the best account possible indeed so
-productive is it that they compute it to be worth above three
-halfpence a quart.&nbsp; On entering the compting house one of
-the clerks sitting there obligingly gratified us with the sight
-of a number of drawers full of the most beautiful specimens of
-minerals I ever saw and moreover requested us to take our choice
-of what we most admired.&nbsp; We were constrained to be very
-moderate on account of the weight of the article but if we could
-have procured a ready carriage I fancy we should have been rather
-more greedy in our selection.&nbsp; At it was we took nearly five
-pounds&rsquo; weight of the following minerals and mixtures (fol.
-105):</p>
-<p class="gutindent">First.&nbsp; Mundig containing sulphur and
-iron.</p>
-<p class="gutindent">2.&nbsp; Iron incrusted with lead
-chrystals.</p>
-<p class="gutindent">3.&nbsp; Copper ore.</p>
-<p class="gutindent">4.&nbsp; Copper ore after roasting.</p>
-<p class="gutindent">5.&nbsp; Copper taken from the reservoir of
-old iron.</p>
-<p class="gutindent">6.&nbsp; Quartz containing copper ore.</p>
-<p class="gutindent">7.&nbsp; Zink commonly called black Jack
-incorporated with copper rock holding a small quantity of
-lead.</p>
-<p class="gutindent">8.&nbsp; Quartz with a little of the Zink
-and chrystals.</p>
-<p class="gutindent"><a name="page64"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 64</span>9.&nbsp; Pure copper.</p>
-<p class="gutindent">10.&nbsp; Blue stone issuing from the copper
-rocks.</p>
-<p class="gutindent">11.&nbsp; Sulphur.</p>
-<p class="gutindent">12.&nbsp; Copper coming from the old iron
-after it is dried.</p>
-<p>Hence we just looked into the assay house but could not see
-the process the man having concluded work we also viewed the
-kilns and the coppers where the sulphur is melted.&nbsp; Having
-taken a very competent survey and complimented our obliging and
-intelligent conductor for his trouble in the best manner we were
-able, we took a long walk for nearly five miles to the west of
-Parys mountain towards Llanfechell where we heard there was (fol.
-105<i>a</i>) a prodigious large stone with writing under it to be
-seen.&nbsp; Our conductor who was a young man of Amlwch speaking
-pretty good English entertained us the whole way by a variety of
-ghost stories and preternatural events the common talk of the
-neighbourhood.&nbsp; The stone we were going to see was so big
-that it would sink the largest ship that came to Amlwch.&nbsp;
-That it stood in a valley by itself resting on a flat stone
-whereon a good many characters were engraved but nobody was able
-to make them out but should some learned person have that good
-fortune the stone would immediately move off of itself and there
-would be a pot of gold to reward him for his schollarship.&nbsp;
-That a countryman living hard by had seen the treasure three
-following nights in his dreams and had spent some time in digging
-for it but all to no purpose for it was not intended for
-him.&nbsp; On telling our guide he should equally (fol. 107)
-share whatever we discovered it quickened our march astonishingly
-and I really believe we were not above an hour in reaching the
-stone notwithstanding the many impediments which crossed our
-way.&nbsp; On which we passed an upright stone about seven feet
-high in the middle of a field resembling some of those we before
-noticed as boundaries.&nbsp; Here exclaimed Sancho a man also
-found a considerable treasure, although amused by his simplicity
-it in some measure weakened <a name="page65"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 65</span>the interest we had taken in the
-object of our walk and we felt the less disappointed at finding
-we had taken our ramble in vain when we arrived at the
-spot.&nbsp; For a candle being procured at the treasure
-dreamer&rsquo;s cottage we discovered that what they took for
-letters were nothing but a few natural crevices in the rock and
-that the stone itself though of some magnitude possessed no more
-claim to notice than any other detached fragment lying by the
-road side. (fol. 107<i>a</i>)&nbsp; However disappointed we
-concealed our chagrin and even suffered our conductor to take us
-half a mile out of the way to see an immense stone which he said
-was called Praes Maen on account of a brass pot being placed near
-it and that when the sun shone whoever could trace the shadow at
-a particular time of the day would discover a great treasure in a
-brass vessel.&nbsp; It was moonlight when we arrived at this
-stone which certainly is more worthy of notice than the one we
-had quitted.&nbsp; It is standing upright in the midst of a field
-and measures thirteen feet high and fourteen and <a
-name="page66"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 66</span>fifteen in
-circumference allowing four or five feet under ground, it must
-have been a very heavy body and cost some trouble to have erected
-it in its present position.&nbsp; Approaching nearer to Amlwch we
-observed our quondam loquacious compation become very silent, and
-just as we had passed an old wall about half a mile (fol. 108)
-from the town he told us with evident marks of trepidation that
-there was a ghost sitting there every night, on asking him if he
-had ever seen it he said no but that many of his friends had, it
-was in the shape of a woman and once had attempted to pull a
-farmer&rsquo;s wife off her horse but was prevented by the
-arrival of a second person when it vanished.&nbsp; That on
-Christmas Eve the inhabitants of Amlwch used to come to the spot
-in order to see how many lights would pass by and as many did so
-many persons as travelled that road would die within the
-twelvemonth.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p65b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 48. Ffedoged-y-Gowres"
-title=
-"No. 48. Ffedoged-y-Gowres"
- src="images/p65s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>I just mention these ridiculous stories to show that
-superstition still reigns here and this superstition has perhaps
-been the guardian to many of the druidical remains we noticed in
-the island.&nbsp; It was past six when we returned to the inn
-where we were welcomed by a most excellent repast.</p>
-<h3><span class="smcap">Friday</span>, <span
-class="smcap">Decr</span>. 10</h3>
-<p>We could not leave the inn so soon as we intended on account
-(fol. 108<i>a</i>) of our boots not being ready so bad is the
-workmanship of the shoemakers in Wales that the repairs of one
-day were destroyed by the exertions of the next, and it was a
-business almost as regular as eating our dinner when we arrived
-at the inn to send our boots to get mended.&nbsp; Here I hope we
-have had them secured effectually as we ordered them to be
-studded with nails according to the fashion of the country.&nbsp;
-Although on our arrival we scarcely gained admittance at the inn
-as pedestrians yet on our <a name="page67"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 67</span>departure we had to pay the bill
-calculated for equestrians of the first order so much had our
-consequence been raised by the loquacity of our attendant in the
-kitchen.</p>
-<p>This heavy blow on our finances with the loss we had sustained
-at Llanfechell caused a calculation to be made which promised
-only three days&rsquo; supply supposing our concerns should fall
-into the hands of so experienced a scribe as the landlady at
-Amlwch (fol. 109).&nbsp; About eleven we were clear of the inn
-and took the road across the fields to the small church of
-Bodewryd where we understood were some remains of the Wynne
-family a branch of which family was settled at a large mansion
-now a farm near the spot.&nbsp; The church door being open we
-found the interior occupied by a grey headed pedagogue and his
-schollars.&nbsp; On the pulpit were carved the arms of the
-Wynne&rsquo;s and the seats and communion table exhibited the
-same kind of ornaments cut in oak before noticed at
-Llanelian.&nbsp; This living was augmented by Queen Anne&rsquo;s
-bounty and further donations as appears engraven on a brass
-tablet affixed to the north side of the altar:</p>
-<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">M. S.<br />
-Annae Reginae serenissimae<br />
-cujus munificentia sine exemplo maximae<br />
-inter innumeras alias per magnam<br />
-(fol. 109<i>a</i>) Britanniam late sparsas<br />
-Tenuissima haec de Bodewryd ecclesia<br />
-cujus stipendium annuum xx solidos ante non exedebat<br />
-libris ducentis donata est<br />
-promovente interim pietatem hanc<br />
-et totidem libras de proprio conferente<br />
-per ultimum testamentum suum<br />
-Dat. 6<sup>to</sup> Septembris <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span>
-1720<br />
-Roberto Wynne A.M. rectori de Llantrisant<br />
-Filio Johannis Wynne de Bodewryd Arm.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">Sexto et natu maximo<br />
-quibus pecuniis aliquantulum auctis<br />
-Tenementa sequentia coempta<br />
-et in usum ecclesiae pr&aelig;dictae<br />
-In perpetuum stabilita sunt<br />
-<a name="page68"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 68</span>(fol. 110)
-<span class="GutSmall">III</span>&ordm; Nonas Decembris 1723<br
-/>
-viz. Tre Evan, Clidog, Hen Aclwyd &amp;c. &amp;c.<br />
-Reditusque annuus 40 solidorum<br />
-De Tre Anghared in Bodedern<br />
-Com. Anglesea.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">In tantae munificentiae memoriam<br
-/>
-Tabula haec votiva suspensa est. anno 1727.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>On the opposite side of the communion table on a similar
-tablet is engraved the pedigree of this branch of the
-Wynne&rsquo;s which is as follows:</p>
-<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">In hac Ecclesia
-jacent</p>
-<p>1.&nbsp; Rees (ap Llewellwyn, ap Griffith, ap Howell, ap Evan,
-ap Ednyfed ap Howell, ap Griffith, ap Meyricke, ap Trahairn, ap
-Gwerydd ap Rees Goch) uxorem habuit Agnes vch Nicholas ap Ellis
-Archidiaconi Monensis filiam obiit anno Dni 1500.</p>
-<p>(fol. 110<i>a</i>)</p>
-<p>2.&nbsp; David ap Rees de Bodewryd Armiger obiit 27&ordm;
-Julii anno Dni 1551 uxorem habuit Anghared filiam et heredem de
-Pl&acirc;s y Brian in parochia de Llanbeder.</p>
-<p>3.&nbsp; Hugo Gwyn ap D.D. obiit 1562 uxorem habuit Elenam
-Conway de Bryn Eyrinin Com. Carnaru.</p>
-<p>4.&nbsp; Edwardus ap H Gwyn sepultus fuit primo die Martii
-1596 uxorem duxit Elizabetham Sion ap Rees Bodychen.</p>
-<p>5.&nbsp; Johannes Wyn Edd obiit 1614 uxorem habuit Grace vch
-Sion Griffith de Llanddyfran.</p>
-<p>6.&nbsp; Edwardus Wyn obiit 1637 uxorem habuit Margaretam
-Puleston de Llwyn y Knottie in com. Flint.</p>
-<p>7.&nbsp; Johannes Wyn obiit Jan. 30, 1669 uxorem duxit, Elenam
-filiam et cohaeredem J. Lewis de Chwaen Wen arm sepultus est cum
-uxore filioque natu maximo Johanne L L B in ecclesiae parochiali
-de Llantrissant de quo siquis (fol. 111) ultra desideret
-monumentum patri suo B&mdash;M positum impensis Roberto Wyn A.M.
-ejusdem ecclesiae Rectoris dignissimi consulat.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Having finished our observations and preparing to leave the
-church we were not a little surprized by a request made by the
-schoolmaster for something to drink our healths, though I
-complied with his request I at the same time conveyed a kind of
-hint that an instructor should not be mercinary.&nbsp; However he
-pocketed the reproof with the money and I cannot say I discerned
-anything of that hectic flush come across <a
-name="page69"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 69</span>his cheek
-described by Sterne in his story of the poor Monk.</p>
-<p>Continuing from hence and passing by the magic stone which had
-drawn us so much out of our way the preceeding night we called at
-the treasure dreamer&rsquo;s cottage as he had promised to shew
-us an inscription which (fol. 111<i>a</i>) he knew to be worthy
-of notice as a clergyman of Llanerchymedd had been to copy
-it.&nbsp; He was from home but his wife catching up her half
-grown child in her arms walked before us at such a rate we could
-scarcely keep up with her to the field where it stood.&nbsp; We
-here found some characters and just as I was preparing to take
-the impression of them with putty so violent and cold a storm of
-sleet and rain came on that we were forced to take shelter at a
-neighbouring farm.&nbsp; The farm house though of considerable
-extent was open all the way up to the roof the beds, kitchen,
-dairy, &amp;c. being all contiguous to each other.&nbsp; This we
-found on enquiry was the common custom of the country.&nbsp; The
-weather holding up a little we returned to the spot, in the
-interval having learnt that the stone had some time since been
-broken in two in order to make a gate post of the lower part, we
-procured an (fol. 113) iron crow and with the assistance of two
-stout lads from the farm turned it over, it measures about four
-feet in length but retains no appearance of characters on its
-surface though by measuring its width we clearly discovered that
-it must formerly have been united to the upper part which is now
-fixed in the ground about an hundred yards distant.&nbsp; On
-returning thither I took a very exact copy.&nbsp; The name of the
-stone is Maen H&icirc;r Llanol with is interpreted the large
-stone with letters and when entire it must have been a
-conspicuous object from most parts of the island as it stands on
-very high ground.</p>
-<p>The weather continuing cold and disagreeable we hastened our
-march to Llanerchymedd our intended station for the night.&nbsp;
-Although the distance to this <a name="page70"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 70</span>place in a direct line is not above
-four miles and its situation clearly discerned from Maen
-H&icirc;r Llanol yet on account of the bogs and (fol.
-113<i>a</i>) overflowing of the river we were obliged to make a
-circuit of nearly twice that space round by Llanbabo.&nbsp; In
-our way passed a farm called Boddeiniol where we stopped to
-enquire for some druidical remains mentioned in Mr.
-Bingley&rsquo;s list as still visible, but the farmer who is
-apparently near eighty years old said he had never had heard of
-anything of the kind since he had lived there.&nbsp; But some
-time back in cleaning a piece of rough <a name="page71"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 71</span>ground in one of his fields he
-discovered four burying places as he took them to be the sides
-formed of flat stones set upright in the ground and covered by
-others of the same irregular shape.&nbsp; Some of the stones he
-shewed us lying against a fence but none of them appeared to be
-above two feet and a half high.&nbsp; Crossed the river Trepont
-<a name="citation71"></a><a href="#footnote71"
-class="citation">[71]</a> a little below Llanbabo.&nbsp; This
-river is styled the largest in Anglesea although I am sure one
-might easily leap over the widest part the channel (fol. 114)
-when not flooded being not above twelve or fourteen feet
-across.&nbsp; Arrived at Llanerchymedd a little before four,
-enquiring of the innkeeper for an ancient stone with an
-inscription near the town he accompanied us to the house of a
-clergyman who he said was very curious in these particulars and
-would furnish us with every information on the subject.&nbsp; Our
-reception was very pleasing but we had been misinformed in regard
-to the object of our enquiries there being no other antiques in
-the neighbourhood besides Maen H&icirc;r Llanol and the stone at
-Llantrisant about four miles distant.&nbsp; In the evening Mr.
-Richards the above mentioned gentlemen called upon us at the inn
-and during our conversation gave some interesting particulars of
-druidical remains in Bodafon mountain which we purpose visiting
-in his company tomorrow.&nbsp; This gentleman had a very perfect
-coin of Diocletian of which I took an impression in sealing wax
-(fol. 114<i>a</i>) in order to make a fac simile of the coin in
-isinglass on my return&mdash;if we cannot procure originals we
-must be content with copies.&nbsp; Having noted down the
-occurrences of the day we retired to bed desiring to be called
-very early in order to get breakfast over by seven the time we
-had agreed to set out.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p70b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 49. Maen Hir Llanol"
-title=
-"No. 49. Maen Hir Llanol"
- src="images/p70s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<h3><a name="page72"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 72</span><span
-class="smcap">Saturday</span>, <span class="smcap">Decr</span>.
-11</h3>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p72b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 50. [Thief Stone.]"
-title=
-"No. 50. [Thief Stone.]"
- src="images/p72s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>A little before seven called at Mr. Richards&rsquo;s house
-whom we found waiting at the door ready to accompany us.&nbsp; He
-mounted his horse and we pursued the Beaumaris turnpike for half
-<a name="citation72a"></a><a href="#footnote72a"
-class="citation">[72a]</a> a mile when we turned to the left to
-look at a stone called Lleidr <a name="citation72b"></a><a
-href="#footnote72b" class="citation">[72b]</a> y Frydog or the
-thief stone.&nbsp; This is a rough stone about six feet high
-having a kind of hump or projection near the top.&nbsp; The
-country people report that a thief who had stolen some books from
-a neighbouring church was in this place turned into stone with
-the sack containing his theft laying over his shoulder.&nbsp;
-About a quarter of a mile further Mr. Richards pointed to the
-spot where formerly stood the nunnery of Clorach or St. Claire
-and not far from it by the road side we saw two wells whose
-waters were enclosed in a square reservoir of stone work.&nbsp;
-Tradition says that the two saints Seriol <a
-name="page73"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 73</span>and Cybi (the
-former having a cell at Priestholme the latter at Holyhead where
-he founded a collegiate church) used to hold their weekly
-meetings at these springs to consult on religious matters, and
-from the circumstance of Seriol&rsquo;s travelling westward in
-the morning and eastward in the evening, and Cybi on the contrary
-always facing the sun they were denominated</p>
-<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">Seriol wyn a Chyby
-felyn.<br />
-Seriol the fair and Cybi the tawney.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p73b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 50a. Cromlech on Bodafon Mountain"
-title=
-"No. 50a. Cromlech on Bodafon Mountain"
- src="images/p73s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p74b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 51. Bodafon Hills"
-title=
-"No. 51. Bodafon Hills"
- src="images/p74s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>When arrived at Bodafon hills a ridge of rocky ground (fol.
-117<i>a</i>) extending nearly two miles east and west Mr.
-Richards gave his horse to our attendant and accompanied us to a
-cromlech lying at the side of the hill denominated cromlech
-Lldercoch <a name="citation73"></a><a href="#footnote73"
-class="citation">[73]</a> nearly square the upper stone being
-about eleven feet across supported by four or five small uprights
-not above a foot and a half from the surface.&nbsp; This is by no
-means so perfect as some we have before noticed.&nbsp; Had not
-Mr. Richards been positive of the fact I should have doubted
-whether it had been designed for one.&nbsp; Arrived nearly at the
-summit of the hill we entered a cottage inhabited by a countryman
-whose grandfather <a name="page74"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-74</span>and great grandfather resided there before him.&nbsp;
-Under the direction of this person we climbed to the top of the
-hill to look at a Carnedd.&nbsp; Most of the loose stones have
-been removed but some of the flat ones which composed the
-cistfaen are still on the spot, another more perfect lies about
-an hundred (fol. 118) yards to the eastward of this, a third
-further beyond which we did not visit.&nbsp; In the course of our
-walk the countryman pointed to a spot where he said his
-grand-mother whilst tending the cattle found a large triangular
-<a name="citation74"></a><a href="#footnote74"
-class="citation">[74]</a> piece of gold as he called it, standing
-on three supporters weighing nearly forty pounds.&nbsp; The
-antique overgrown with heath but one of the beasts happening <a
-name="page75"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 75</span>to tread upon
-it occasioned the discovery.&nbsp; This she sold for three
-shillings at Llanerchymedd.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p75b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 52. South of Bodafon Hill with a British Town"
-title=
-"No. 52. South of Bodafon Hill with a British Town"
- src="images/p75s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>I should rather conceive that the metal was brass but whatever
-it was it would have been of more considerable value in the eyes
-of the antiquarian.&nbsp; Not far from this place he pointed to a
-number of loose stones called by a Welsh word answering to gold
-tongues <a name="citation75a"></a><a href="#footnote75a"
-class="citation">[75a]</a> as many pieces of gold of that shape
-he said were formerly picked up here.&nbsp; From the formation
-here specified I think one may not hesitate a moment in
-pronouncing they were brass celts or British weapons and as a
-farther (fol. 118<i>a</i>) confirmation of this opinion not a
-great way distant facing the south we traced the remains of a
-large British <a name="citation75b"></a><a href="#footnote75b"
-class="citation">[75b]</a> town.&nbsp; <a name="page76"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 76</span>Here about forty or fifty foundations
-such as we have before noticed at Tre Evan may be clearly
-discerned some lying in a cluster together others standing
-separate, others again having a square form the name given to
-these remains scattered over the island we were informed by our
-intelligent companion by Cyteau <a name="citation76a"></a><a
-href="#footnote76a" class="citation">[76a]</a> Gwydellhod not
-Irishmens huts as some have translated it but the houses of the
-wild inhabitants.&nbsp; A spring rising near the spot still has a
-term of the same signification being stiled the well of the wild
-inhabitants.&nbsp; Some vestiges of similar <a
-name="citation76b"></a><a href="#footnote76b"
-class="citation">[76b]</a> buildings are to be traced to the
-north side of the hill, as also on the rising ground facing that
-part of Bodafon we have just noticed.&nbsp; It is natural to
-suppose that when the island was covered with wood, the
-inhabitants would fix their residence on elevated stations as a
-security (fol. 120) against their enemies and beasts of prey we
-may suppose the lower parts of these huts were alone built of
-stone and that branches of trees and earth formed the covering
-like those at present used amongst the lowest orders of Irish
-peasantry and why may not this people have retained the mode
-observed by the ancient Britons from whence they derive their
-origin.&nbsp; The highest point of Bodafon hills lies to the east
-commanding almost the whole circuit of the island.&nbsp; Here a
-beacon used to be lighted in case of invasion or to convey
-signals to the opposite coast of Carnarvonshire although probably
-it is many years since anything of the kind was used, yet the
-stones and the earth bear evident marks of the fire.&nbsp; It
-blew so hard to-day that it was with difficulty we kept on our
-legs on the high ground but on descending we were sheltered from
-the wind and had a pleasant walk to Penhros Ll&ucirc;gwy church
-an ancient building about half a mile to the south east of
-Bodafon hills.&nbsp; On a (fol. 120<i>a</i>) rough flat stone in
-the church yard I traced <a name="page77"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 77</span>the following inscription, hic jacet
-Macuceceti. <a name="citation77a"></a><a href="#footnote77a"
-class="citation">[77a]</a>&nbsp; Mr. Rowlands, upon what
-authority I know not, supposes this to have been an inscription
-on Mechell or Macutius bishop of St. Maloes in Little Britain,
-who he says was buried here.&nbsp; We also observed two or three
-flat grave <a name="citation77b"></a><a href="#footnote77b"
-class="citation">[77b]</a> stones of a rough gritty substance
-about six feet long whereon was cut the figure of a cross in the
-same manner as those I noticed last year at Furness abbey.&nbsp;
-But what seemed most curious at <a name="page78"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 78</span>first sight was an inscription marked
-on a flat stone <a name="citation78"></a><a href="#footnote78"
-class="citation">[78]</a> lying on the ground whose characters I
-recognised to be similar to what I had observed on the font at
-Bridekirk in Cumberland mixed with Saxon letters of a much later
-date.&nbsp; On observing Mr. Richards smile after I had finished
-my copy I requested he would candidly tell me what the
-inscription meant and in what character (fol. 122) it was written
-for I could make nothing out of it when he was kind enough to
-relieve me from my perplexity by explaining that it had been
-executed within these sixty years by a shepherds boy at the
-desire of a gentleman who employed various alphabets to compose
-it.&nbsp; The words are Welsh to this effect Yma hefyd mae
-Gorwedd Katherine Jones Ebrill 11 1744. ag. 70.&nbsp; Here also
-lies without Catherine Jones April 11 1744 aged 70.&nbsp; This I
-suppose was intended as a stumbling block for <a
-name="page79"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 79</span>antiquarians
-the idea being probably suggested by Mr. Rowland&rsquo;s Macutius
-in the neighbourhood.&nbsp; Like Doctor Johnson at the Hebrides I
-here had to regret the loss of my walking stick for although I
-dispatched our attendant and clerk in quest of it before we had
-proceeded an hundred yards from the place where I had copied the
-inscription, it was vanished.&nbsp; I shrewdly suspect that the
-clerk had taken a fancy to it as there was no other person in the
-church yard excepting our own party.&nbsp; However as he supplied
-me with something as a substitute it (fol. 122<i>a</i>) did not
-longer delay our march which brought us in the course of half an
-hour to Ll&ucirc;gwy house an ancient mansion now rented by a
-farmer under Lord Boston who goodnaturedly invited us within
-doors and refreshed us with a good luncheon of bread and cheese
-and some excellent ale.&nbsp; We then walked a short distance
-from the house to a rising ground overgrown with timber trees and
-coppice wood but still there was sufficient opening to enable us
-to trace a number of the Cytiau Gwyddellhod of a more perfect
-form and larger dimensions than any we had yet seen.&nbsp; They
-appear to be surrounded by a breast work of massive stones stuck
-edgeways in the ground evidently intended as a fortification
-which was probably strengthened by a mound and sharp
-stakes.&nbsp; The habitations here are very contiguous the
-entrances easily traced as also a communication <a
-name="citation79"></a><a href="#footnote79"
-class="citation">[79]</a> from one to the other.&nbsp; This is a
-strong confirmation of the historical account of the Aborigines
-who are said in the different tribes to have had every (fol. 126)
-thing in common.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p77b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 53. Stones in Penhros Ll&ucirc;gwy Churchyard"
-title=
-"No. 53. Stones in Penhros Ll&ucirc;gwy Churchyard"
- src="images/p77s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p78b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 54. Cromlech Llwgwy, North-East Side"
-title=
-"No. 54. Cromlech Llwgwy, North-East Side"
- src="images/p78s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>We purpose before we leave Wales visiting a very extensive
-fortress on the top of Penmaenmawr which Mr. Richards says
-resembles very much the one before us.&nbsp; Not far distant
-facing the ocean is a cromlech the upper stone six yards long,
-five yards and a half wide <a name="page80"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 80</span>and three yards <a
-name="citation80a"></a><a href="#footnote80a"
-class="citation">[80a]</a> thick.&nbsp; One end rests upon a bank
-<a name="citation80b"></a><a href="#footnote80b"
-class="citation">[80b]</a> of earth and the other is supported by
-four or five small upright stones, leaving a hollow beneath about
-two feet high.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p80b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 55. Ll&ucirc;gwy Cromlech [and Caer Lligwy.]"
-title=
-"No. 55. Ll&ucirc;gwy Cromlech [and Caer Lligwy.]"
- src="images/p80s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Near this we noticed the remains of Ll&ucirc;gwy chapel now
-entirely dilapidated.&nbsp; Walked hence to Llanalgo church said
-to have been built in the year six hundred and five.&nbsp; On the
-north wall near the altar is a mutilated monument <a
-name="citation80c"></a><a href="#footnote80c"
-class="citation">[80c]</a> of a knight in armour kneeling before
-an altar said to be that of Sir John Bodville a gentleman whose
-residence was in this parish.&nbsp; On digging a few years ago
-the foundation of the new parsonage the workmen discovered a
-square vault formed of a solid composition resembling thick (fol.
-126<i>a</i>) tile supposed to be an ancient burying place.&nbsp;
-Mr. Richards who was curate of this place for some years says he
-has in his possession English coins of <a name="page81"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 81</span>Edward <a name="citation81"></a><a
-href="#footnote81" class="citation">[81]</a> and Mary found in
-digging in the church yard.&nbsp; Leaving the church we adjourned
-to a farm house close by where the party was again supplied with
-bread cheese and ale.&nbsp; Although I did not much admire this
-delay we were obliged to comply with Mr. Richards&rsquo;s
-request.&nbsp; Continued here nearly an hour during which time a
-poor blind boy attempted to amuse us by playing on the harp but
-having received but few instructions was but an indifferent
-performer, our attendant then took the instrument and played some
-of the Welsh airs with tolerable execution.&nbsp; The poor boy in
-the meantime exhibited such strong marks of surprize mixed with
-mortification as would have supplied an admirable subject for the
-pen of Hogarth.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p81b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 56. Cromlech Allcho"
-title=
-"No. 56. Cromlech Allcho"
- src="images/p81s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>After having given something to him we were not a little glad
-to take our leave it being (fol. 127) past two, and there was a
-doubt whether we could procure accommodation for the night nearer
-than Beaumaris at <a name="page82"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-82</span>least twelve miles distant.&nbsp; Passed a stone about
-seven feet high nine long and three thick this is placed edgeways
-on a flat rock, another about the same shape and dimensions lies
-on the ground near at hand.&nbsp; A third formerly placed across
-has been destroyed within the memory of some of the
-inhabitants.&nbsp; These stones are called Cromlech but I should
-rather imagine like those we noticed at Llanfechell that it had
-constituted the chamber of a large Carnedd.&nbsp; Proceeding
-hence we walked over a natural layer of lime stones extending for
-some acres along the surface of the ground this is called Marian
-Gl&acirc;s a term expressive of flat grey stones.&nbsp; We here
-met with a countryman who joined our party and in our progress
-pointed out some more of the Cytiau Gwyddellhod on (fol.
-127<i>a</i>) a rising ground called Bryn <a
-name="citation82"></a><a href="#footnote82"
-class="citation">[82]</a> ddiol, and from hence we saw a hill
-about two miles to the westward named Rhos Fawr where he said
-were some other remains and cromlechs but this lay so much out of
-our direction we could not visit them.&nbsp; At Marian Mawr Mr.
-Richards quitted us.&nbsp; We were indeed much indebted to him
-for his polite attention in accompanying us thus far for I am
-convinced that without his assistance we should have passed many
-of these curious remains the common people in general being
-ignorant of everything of the kind.&nbsp; This gentleman seems to
-have paid a good deal of attention to antiquities and has
-promised to favour me with a letter on the subject on my return
-home.&nbsp; But I could not help remarking in the course of
-conversation that superstition does not seem confined to the
-ignorant and illiterate for he told me very gravely (fol. 129)
-that there were companies of fairies still existing in Wales and
-particularly in Anglesea and that he had frequently driven them
-from their haunts.&nbsp; He also spoke of the knockers supposed
-to be little invisible beings favourable to the miners who by
-making a variety of sounds underground lead <a
-name="page83"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 83</span>them to those
-places where there is the greatest quantity of ore.&nbsp; I could
-only be silent when I heard these opinions advanced but he has
-directed me to a book lately published by Mr. Edmund Jones of
-Pontypool on the subject.&nbsp; At Marian Mawr are six large
-stones of the same kind as the substrata rising above seven
-feet.&nbsp; They have obtained the name of cromlech but I rather
-imagine them to be natural productions.</p>
-<p>Under the guidance of the countryman we proceeded to Red
-Wharf.&nbsp; Passed more of the Cytiau Gwyddelhod at a place
-called Trescifion.&nbsp; Near here is an ancient mansion house
-called Glynn now belonging to Mr. Meyricke (fol. 129<i>a</i>) the
-name of Glynn a title common in many parts of Wales I find
-implies a situation lying in a narrow valley overgrown with
-trees.&nbsp; Not far beyond was a house in which Mr. Hughes
-resided before his vast acquisition in the Parys mountain.&nbsp;
-Arrived at Red Wharf a little before dark and the house promised
-but very bad accommodations we were obliged to put up with
-them.&nbsp; Our eating was of the least importance but on
-retiring to my sleeping apartment although the woman had provided
-clean linen the <i>toute ensemble</i> was so dirty I passed the
-night without taking off my cloaths.</p>
-<h3><span class="smcap">Sunday</span>, <span
-class="smcap">Decr</span>. 12</h3>
-<p>We were not sorry to leave this wretched alehouse as soon as
-there was sufficient light to see our direction three miles
-across the sands of Traeth G&ocirc;ch to the village of Llanddona
-whose church stands on an eminence above the (fol. 130) bay and
-was first founded by Ddona grandson of Brychfael ys Cythrog (who
-fought the Saxons when the monks of Bangor Iscoed were
-slaughtered) anno six hundred and ten.&nbsp; About half a mile to
-the left are the traces of a large entrenchment supposed to have
-been thrown up by the Britons as a defence against the northern
-invaders.&nbsp; This is on a <a name="page84"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 84</span>rising knoll called Dyn Sylwyn <a
-name="citation84a"></a><a href="#footnote84a"
-class="citation">[84a]</a> or Round Table Hill.&nbsp; This we had
-not leisure to see being obliged to hasten to Llainestan <a
-name="citation84b"></a><a href="#footnote84b"
-class="citation">[84b]</a> about a mile in the contrary direction
-in order to have sufficient time to notice an ancient monument,
-mentioned by Mr. Rowlands, before service began.&nbsp;
-Fortunately the church door was open and we met with no
-interruption during the half hour we stayed there.&nbsp; The
-object in question covering a cenotaph rose about two feet above
-the pavement near the communion table.&nbsp; A person in a
-sacerdotal habit <a name="page85"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-85</span>holding a pastoral crook in his right hand and in his
-left a scroll is here represented, whereon is inscribed (fol.
-131<i>a</i>) hic jacet sanctus Jestinus cui &amp;c., round the
-border of the slab towards the head the characters in parts are
-much defaced but I read Gryffydd ap Gwyllym in oblationem istam
-imaginem pro salute animarum suarum.&nbsp; The style of
-workmanship appears very similar to that of Pabo post Prid and by
-the way tends to confirm the opinion we there formed that the
-sculpture is many centuries posterior to the time of the persons
-they are designed to represent and offered as an oblation to the
-church for the purpose of securing the favour and mediation of
-the patron saint.&nbsp; That the family of this Gryffyd ap
-Gwyllym resided in this neighbourhood appears from a document
-still extant dated at Rhayder Gadog June the twentieth in the
-twenty seventh year of Henry the sixth by which seven villaines
-or vassals were made over and granted by Ednyfed Fychan ap
-Ednyfed Dafydd ap Gryffydd and Howell ap Dafydd according to the
-feudal system still obtaining to (fol. 133) William Gryffyd ap
-Gwylym free tenant of Porthamel probably the very same person who
-presented the effigies of St. Jesten to the church.&nbsp; This
-Jesten founder of the church is supposed to have been the son of
-Gerennius or Geraint grandson of Constantine duke of Cornwall
-successor to king Arthur.&nbsp; The font is certainly very
-ancient probably coeval with the original building.&nbsp; The
-present structure differs nothing from other Welsh
-Churches.&nbsp; From hence proceeded across a swampy heath for a
-mile and a half to an old mansion called Fotti <a
-name="citation85"></a><a href="#footnote85"
-class="citation">[85]</a> Rhydderch or Roderick&rsquo;s summer
-house having been directed thither to see an inscription cut over
-an arched chimney piece in the kitchen.&nbsp; The characters
-appear to be about the time of Henry the eighth or his successor
-and are read Si deus nobiscum quis contra nos.&nbsp; This place
-formerly the residence of a gentleman&rsquo;s family like <a
-name="page86"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 86</span>most others
-we have had occasion to notice in the island is now tenanted by a
-farmer (fol. 133<i>a</i>) who has a fine family of nine
-children.&nbsp; The eldest a lad of only eleven years old engaged
-to conduct us to the cromlechs at Cremlyn and Trefor.&nbsp; At
-the former place there is little worthy of notice but at the
-latter I took two sketches of a very perfect cromlech the upper
-stone measuring about three yards across supported by two
-uprights the larger six feet high the other not above four and a
-half which cause the cap stone to recline in a slanting
-direction.&nbsp; Another long stone now lying on the ground
-appears to have been formerly used as a supporter.&nbsp; Near at
-hand also are three or four flat stones lying promiscuously.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p84b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 58. Ancient Monument in Llaniestyn"
-title=
-"No. 58. Ancient Monument in Llaniestyn"
- src="images/p84s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p86b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 59. Font at Llaniestyn"
-title=
-"No. 59. Font at Llaniestyn"
- src="images/p86s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p87ab.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 60. Cromlech at Trefor"
-title=
-"No. 60. Cromlech at Trefor"
- src="images/p87as.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p87bb.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 61. Cromlech at Trefor"
-title=
-"No. 61. Cromlech at Trefor"
- src="images/p87bs.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Whether these were ever employed in the formation of a second
-cromlech like at Praes Addfed <a name="citation86a"></a><a
-href="#footnote86a" class="citation">[86a]</a> I cannot pretend
-to determine.&nbsp; About two fields from hence in our way to
-Penymynnedd <a name="citation86b"></a><a href="#footnote86b"
-class="citation">[86b]</a> we traced one of very <a
-name="page88"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 88</span>small
-dimensions, the cap stone not being above a yard across and its
-two supporters a foot and a half high.</p>
-<p>(fol. 136)&nbsp; After a toilsome walk we arrived at
-Penymynnedd a place formerly in possession of the Tudor family
-whose descendant Owen became of such consequence in the British
-history by marrying Catherine widow of Henry the fifth.&nbsp; In
-the church we perceived a handsome marble monument said to belong
-to that family whereon are the effigies of a knight in armour
-with his lady by his side.&nbsp; There being no inscription we
-could not determine its exact date but from the workmanship I
-should imagine it was posterior to the time of Owen who if I
-mistake not was buried in the cathedral of St. Davids but of this
-I shall inform myself hereafter.</p>
-<p>The church of Penymynnedd formerly went by the name of its
-founder whose tomb they pointed out under a kind of gothic nitch
-in the north wall without any kind of inscription.&nbsp; I did
-not copy the monument on account of there being a good many
-people in church (fol. 136<i>a</i>) and I wished not to put a
-stumbling block in my brother&rsquo;s way but I afterwards made a
-sketch from memory just to notice the place.&nbsp; After a homely
-meal we walked half a mile across the fields to the turnpike, and
-in the course of an hour arrived at Bangor ferry completely
-soaked a heavy rain having accompanied us all the way.&nbsp;
-Crossed the water about two with the design of reaching Capel
-Cerig to sleep but in this we were disappointed through the
-inattention of our guide who having stopped behind on some
-pretence we mistook our way and deviated nearly four miles before
-we got to Llandegai.</p>
-<p>It was now quite dark and stormy and we endeavoured to procure
-horses to take us to the conclusion of our stage but without
-success, on therefore we marched to a small public house near
-Lord Penrhyn&rsquo;s quarries where we met a civil reception <a
-name="page89"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 89</span>though the
-accommodations were scarcely (fol. 138) a whit better than those
-of the preceeding night.&nbsp; In the course of two hours after
-our arrival our guide made his appearance with a number of
-excuses I did not think it worth while to listen to.&nbsp; At
-about ten we retired to our sleeping room.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p89b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 30. Llangwyfan Church. (See page 43.)"
-title=
-"No. 30. Llangwyfan Church. (See page 43.)"
- src="images/p89s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<h3><span class="smcap">Monday</span>, <span
-class="smcap">Decr</span>. 13</h3>
-<p>It rained violently all night but clearing up after breakfast
-we pursued our road to Capel Cerig.&nbsp; In our way purchased a
-hone at the quarry near Ogwen lake of a man living in a cottage
-close at hand who is employed on the spot to procure this article
-and two or three shiploads have already been sent to different
-parts.&nbsp; Arrived at the inn about one gratified by our ten
-days tour in the island notwithstanding the bad weather we
-experienced having in that period walked above an hundred and
-sixty eight miles.</p>
-
-<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
-<p style="text-align: center"><span
-class="smcap">Corrigendum</span>.<br />
-On page 68, line 30, <i>for</i> &ldquo;auxore&rdquo; <i>read</i>
-&ldquo;uxore.&rdquo;</p>
-<h2>FOOTNOTES.</h2>
-<p><a name="footnote11a"></a><a href="#citation11a"
-class="footnote">[11a]</a>&nbsp; Llanidan House belonged to Lord
-Boston, from whom Mr. Williams rented it.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote11b"></a><a href="#citation11b"
-class="footnote">[11b]</a>&nbsp; South-west.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote13a"></a><a href="#citation13a"
-class="footnote">[13a]</a>&nbsp; Castell near Bryn Gwyn.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote13b"></a><a href="#citation13b"
-class="footnote">[13b]</a>&nbsp; West.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote14a"></a><a href="#citation14a"
-class="footnote">[14a]</a>&nbsp; Braint.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote14b"></a><a href="#citation14b"
-class="footnote">[14b]</a>&nbsp; Caer Lab.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote15a"></a><a href="#citation15a"
-class="footnote">[15a]</a>&nbsp; Bodowyr.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote15b"></a><a href="#citation15b"
-class="footnote">[15b]</a>&nbsp; Half a mile south-west.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote16a"></a><a href="#citation16a"
-class="footnote">[16a]</a>&nbsp; Myfyrian.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote16b"></a><a href="#citation16b"
-class="footnote">[16b]</a>&nbsp; Tre Ifan.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote17"></a><a href="#citation17"
-class="footnote">[17]</a>&nbsp; Llanedwen.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote18"></a><a href="#citation18"
-class="footnote">[18]</a>&nbsp; Carnedd at Pl&acirc;s Newydd.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote20"></a><a href="#citation20"
-class="footnote">[20]</a>&nbsp; Cromlech at Pl&acirc;s
-Newydd.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote22a"></a><a href="#citation22a"
-class="footnote">[22a]</a>&nbsp; Gwydryn.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote22b"></a><a href="#citation22b"
-class="footnote">[22b]</a>&nbsp; Brynsiencyn.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote23"></a><a href="#citation23"
-class="footnote">[23]</a>&nbsp; Castell Idris.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote28"></a><a href="#citation28"
-class="footnote">[28]</a>&nbsp; Perthi Duon?</p>
-<p><a name="footnote30a"></a><a href="#citation30a"
-class="footnote">[30a]</a>&nbsp; A mile and a quarter
-south-west.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote30b"></a><a href="#citation30b"
-class="footnote">[30b]</a>&nbsp; Frondeg.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote32a"></a><a href="#citation32a"
-class="footnote">[32a]</a>&nbsp; Malltraeth.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote32b"></a><a href="#citation32b"
-class="footnote">[32b]</a>&nbsp; Trefdraeth.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote34"></a><a href="#citation34"
-class="footnote">[34]</a>&nbsp; Llysdulas.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote36a"></a><a href="#citation36a"
-class="footnote">[36a]</a>&nbsp; Llyn Coron.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote36b"></a><a href="#citation36b"
-class="footnote">[36b]</a>&nbsp; Trefeilir.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote37"></a><a href="#citation37"
-class="footnote">[37]</a>&nbsp; Tregarnedd? three miles to the
-north.&nbsp; &ldquo;Ester mon eglwr&rdquo;&mdash;should this read
-. . . maes elidr?&nbsp; &ldquo;?&nbsp; Esgair maes
-elidr.&rdquo;</p>
-<p><a name="footnote38"></a><a href="#citation38"
-class="footnote">[38]</a>&nbsp; Cerrigceinwen.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote44a"></a><a href="#citation44a"
-class="footnote">[44a]</a>&nbsp; Llangwyfan House.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote44b"></a><a href="#citation44b"
-class="footnote">[44b]</a>&nbsp; Mynydd Cnwc.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote46"></a><a href="#citation46"
-class="footnote">[46]</a>&nbsp; At Ty Newydd.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote47a"></a><a href="#citation47a"
-class="footnote">[47a]</a>&nbsp; Crigyll.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote47b"></a><a href="#citation47b"
-class="footnote">[47b]</a>&nbsp; At Pentraeth.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote49"></a><a href="#citation49"
-class="footnote">[49]</a>&nbsp; Nhewyn.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote50a"></a><a href="#citation50a"
-class="footnote">[50a]</a>&nbsp; Gwyndy.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote50b"></a><a href="#citation50b"
-class="footnote">[50b]</a>&nbsp; At Presaddfedd.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote50c"></a><a href="#citation50c"
-class="footnote">[50c]</a>&nbsp; Feet?</p>
-<p><a name="footnote53"></a><a href="#citation53"
-class="footnote">[53]</a>&nbsp; Llandrygarn.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote54"></a><a href="#citation54"
-class="footnote">[54]</a>&nbsp; Now at Trescawen.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote71"></a><a href="#citation71"
-class="footnote">[71]</a>&nbsp; Alaw?</p>
-<p><a name="footnote72a"></a><a href="#citation72a"
-class="footnote">[72a]</a>&nbsp; Two miles.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote72b"></a><a href="#citation72b"
-class="footnote">[72b]</a>&nbsp; Careg Lleidr.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote73"></a><a href="#citation73"
-class="footnote">[73]</a>&nbsp; Can this be meant for Lleidrgoch
-or Llechgoch?&nbsp; Possibly it should be Llidach as a chapel of
-this name used to stand close to the spot.&mdash;<i>Cambrian
-Register</i>, ii, 288.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote74"></a><a href="#citation74"
-class="footnote">[74]</a>&nbsp; The exact spot where the
-&ldquo;triangular piece of gold&rdquo; was found is not clearly
-indicated.&nbsp; Apparently it was on the North-West side of the
-mountain.&nbsp; Mr. Skinner, however, in his sketch, shows it on
-the South-East side.</p>
-<p>Probably the sketches were worked up in the evening from
-memory, which may account for the errors which appear in some of
-them.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote75a"></a><a href="#citation75a"
-class="footnote">[75a]</a>&nbsp; The position where these
-&ldquo;gold tongues&rdquo; stood was probably on the North-West
-side of the mountain though shown by Mr. Skinner on the
-South-East.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote75b"></a><a href="#citation75b"
-class="footnote">[75b]</a>&nbsp; This town was Tre Beirdd on the
-North-West side of the mountain, incorrectly indicated on the
-South-East side on Mr. Skinner&rsquo;s ground plan.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote76a"></a><a href="#citation76a"
-class="footnote">[76a]</a>&nbsp; Cyttiau Gwyddelod.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote76b"></a><a href="#citation76b"
-class="footnote">[76b]</a>&nbsp; These are marked on the 25 in.
-Ordnance Map.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote77a"></a><a href="#citation77a"
-class="footnote">[77a]</a>&nbsp; Maccudecceti.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote77b"></a><a href="#citation77b"
-class="footnote">[77b]</a>&nbsp; No such stones are now to be
-found here.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote78"></a><a href="#citation78"
-class="footnote">[78]</a>&nbsp; Catherine Jones&rsquo; burial is
-entered in the Register, but the stone cannot be found.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote79"></a><a href="#citation79"
-class="footnote">[79]</a>&nbsp; This is incorrect.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote80a"></a><a href="#citation80a"
-class="footnote">[80a]</a>&nbsp; The thickness is about 3 ft. 6
-ins.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote80b"></a><a href="#citation80b"
-class="footnote">[80b]</a>&nbsp; At this end it rests on a flat
-rock.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote80c"></a><a href="#citation80c"
-class="footnote">[80c]</a>&nbsp; Demolished about fifteen years
-ago.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote81"></a><a href="#citation81"
-class="footnote">[81]</a>&nbsp; William and Mary.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote82"></a><a href="#citation82"
-class="footnote">[82]</a>&nbsp; At Traeth Bychan?&nbsp; Bryn
-ddiol is the hill on which the Romano-British village, close to
-Parciau House, is situated.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote84a"></a><a href="#citation84a"
-class="footnote">[84a]</a>&nbsp; Din Sylwy or Bwrdd Arthur.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote84b"></a><a href="#citation84b"
-class="footnote">[84b]</a>&nbsp; Llaniestyn.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote85"></a><a href="#citation85"
-class="footnote">[85]</a>&nbsp; Hafodty</p>
-<p><a name="footnote86a"></a><a href="#citation86a"
-class="footnote">[86a]</a>&nbsp; Presaddfedd.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote86b"></a><a href="#citation86b"
-class="footnote">[86b]</a>&nbsp; Penmynydd.</p>
-<pre>
-
-
-
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