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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b248420 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #61796 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/61796) diff --git a/old/61796-0.txt b/old/61796-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index b871252..0000000 --- a/old/61796-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1965 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of For the Birds, by Anonymous - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll -have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using -this ebook. - - - -Title: For the Birds - -Author: Anonymous - -Release Date: April 10, 2020 [EBook #61796] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FOR THE BIRDS *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - - - - U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service - - - - - For the Birds - - - http://birds.fws.gov - - March 2001 - - -_Among the fondest and most memorable moments of childhood are the -discoveries of songbirds nesting in the backyard. The distinctive, -mud-lined nests of robins and their beautiful blue eggs captivate people -of all ages. Likewise, the nesting activities of house wrens, cardinals, -chickadees and other common birds can stimulate a lifelong interest in -nature._ - -_As you learn to enjoy the beauty of birdlife around their home, you may -wish to improve the “habitat” in your yard so that more birds will visit -your property. You can attract birds by placing bird feeders, nest -boxes, and bird baths in your yard, and by planting a variety of trees, -shrubs, and flowers. These can provide good nesting sites, winter -shelter, places to hide from predators and natural food supplies that -are available year-round._ - -_Backyard bird feeding is a convenient way to enjoy wildlife. More than -65 million Americans of all ages watch, feed and landscape for birds._ - -_It doesn’t matter where you live—in an apartment, townhouse or single -family dwelling, in the city, suburbs or country. Just stand still and -you’ll hear them: wild birds. It is hard to imagine life without them._ - -_Bird watching is one of the fastest growing forms of outdoor recreation -in the country. Each year millions of people discover for the first time -the joys of birdwatching. It’s easy to understand why. Birds are fun to -watch._ - -_And you can watch them just about everywhere. The most convenient place -to start is right in your own backyard. All it takes to get their -attention is food or water, a place to build a nest and appropriate -vegetation._ - - [Illustration: Bird on window feeder] - - - - - _Getting Started_ - - -Backyard Bird Feeding - - When you want to attract a particular bird species and keep it coming - back to your backyard, what you do will be determined by where you - live, and the time of year. For example, on any winter day, you are - likely to see a cardinal at a sunflower feeder in Virginia, a - goldfinch at a thistle feeder in Massachusetts and hummingbirds at a - nectar feeder in southern California. - - A bird field identification book has pictures of different birds and - will help you find the names for the birds you’re likely to see and - the time of year you’re most likely to see them. So, first determine - what birds are likely to occur in your area. - - -Feeder Selection - - When the ground is covered with snow and ice, it’s hard to resist just - tossing seed out the door. But it’s healthier for the birds to get - their handouts at a feeding station, rather than off the ground. - Regardless of the season, food that sits on the ground for even a - short time is exposed to contamination by dampness, mold, bacteria, - animal droppings, lawn fertilizers and pesticides. - - You can start simply with a piece of scrap wood elevated a few inches - above the ground. Add a few holes for drainage and you’ve built a - platform feeder. It won’t be long before the birds find it. - - There are several factors to consider after you’ve decided to feed - birds in your backyard. - - - - - _Placement_ - - - Where do you want to watch your birds? From a kitchen window ... a - sliding glass door opening onto a deck ... a second-story window? - - [Illustration: Window feeder] - - Pick a location that is easy to get to. When the weather is bad and - birds are most vulnerable, you may be reluctant to fill a feeder that - is not in a convenient spot near a door or an accessible window. Also, - pick a site where discarded seed shells and bird droppings won’t be a - cleanup problem. - - Put your feeder where the squirrels can’t reach. Squirrels become a - problem when they take over a bird feeder, scaring the birds away and - tossing seed all over. Squirrels have been known to chew right through - plastic and wooden feeders. - - If you’ve seen squirrels in your neighborhood, it is safe to assume - they will visit your feeder. Think long and hard before you hang - anything from a tree limb. Squirrels are incredibly agile, and any - feeder hanging from a tree is likely to become a squirrel feeder. - - [Illustration: _Photo: Kevin Tennyson, USDOI_] - - In the long run, a squirrel-proof feeder or any feeder on a pole with - a baffle is the least aggravating solution. The most effective - squirrel-proof feeder is the pole-mounted metal “house” type. - - If you must hang a feeder, select a tube protected with metal mesh. - Most plastic “squirrel-proof” feeders, despite manufacturers’ claims, - may eventually succumb to the squirrels. Any wood or plastic feeder - can be effective when mounted on a pole with a plastic or metal - baffle, if the pole is at least 10 feet or more from a tree limb or - trunk (squirrels can jump great distances). - - - - - _Durability_ - - - Bird feeders are made from a variety of materials. You can buy - disposable plastic bag feeders; feeders made of cloth, nylon, vinyl - and metal netting; clear, lexan, colored and PVC plastic tubes; - ceramic and terra cotta; redwood, western cedar, birch, pine and - plywood; sheet metal and aluminized steel; glass tubes and bottles. - - [Illustration: Terra Cotta feeder] - - How long a feeder lasts depends on how well you maintain it, the - effects of weather, and whether squirrels can get to it. Water can get - into any feeder regardless of how carefully you protect it. Cloth, - vinyl, nylon and metal netting feeders are inexpensive, but they do - not protect your seed from spoiling in damp or wet weather. Improve - them by adding a plastic dome. - - Most wood, plastic, ceramic and solid metal feeders keep seed dry, but - water can get into the feeding portals. Look for feeders with drainage - holes in the bottoms of both the feeder hopper and the seed tray. - - Even bowl-type feeders and trays with drainage holes will clog with - seed and bird droppings that can mix with rainwater and be unhealthy - for any animal. Look for shallow plate-like seed trays to catch - dropped seeds while allowing spent seed shells to blow away. - - When you feed birds, expect bird droppings and a leftover food mess. - While you do not have to wash the feeder daily, you should clean it at - least every few weeks. Diseases like salmonella can grow in moldy, wet - seed and bird droppings in your feeder tray and on the ground below. - Move your feeder a few feet each season to give the ground underneath - time to assimilate the seed debris and bird droppings. - - The maintenance required to keep your feeder clean varies according to - the type of feeder. A thistle feeder for goldfinches should be cleaned - about once a month depending on how often it rains. Feeding - hummingbirds requires cleaning at the very least weekly, but - preferably two or three times a week. Sunflower and suet feeders need - to be cleaned only once a month. - - Plastic, ceramic and glass feeders are easy to clean. Wash them in a - bucket of hot, soapy water fortified with a capful or two of chlorine - bleach. Use the same regimen with wood feeders, but substitute another - disinfectant for the bleach so your wood won’t fade. - - - - - _Food Capacity_ - - - The ideal feeder capacity varies with your situation, and the types of - birds you want to attract. If you feed hummingbirds, big feeders are - not always better. One hummingbird will drink about twice its body - weight (less than an ounce) a day. Early in the season, hummers are - territorial and won’t share a feeder. A sixteen-ounce feeder can be - wasteful, or even lethal, because artificial nectar (sugar water) can - ferment in the hot summer sun. A two-ounce feeder is more than enough - for one hummer. Increase the size of your feeder depending on your - location and how many hummers you see in your yard. - - [Illustration: Winter feeding] - - If you opt for a large-volume seed feeder, protect it from the weather - and keep it clean. If after months of use, the birds suddenly abandon - your feeder full of seed, it’s time for a cleaning. - - -How Many Birds - - If too many birds at your feeder become a problem, you can control - their numbers by putting out smaller amounts of seed, or by using - specialty seeds or restrictive feeders that will attract only certain - species. If you fill your feeder only when it’s empty, the birds will - look for food elsewhere. - - You can encourage small birds and discourage large birds with feeders - that restrict access. Wood feeders with vertical bars and feeders - covered with wire mesh frustrate larger birds. - - The most non-selective feeders are the tray, platform or house feeders - because they allow easy access by all birds. - - Tube feeders without trays also restrict access to only small birds. - Remove the perches, and you’ve further restricted the feeder to only - those birds that can easily cling—finches, chickadees, titmice and - woodpeckers. - - If starlings are a problem at your suet feeder, discourage them by - using a suet feeder with access only from the bottom. Starlings are - reluctant to perch upside down. Chickadees and woodpeckers don’t find - that a problem. - - You can virtually eliminate visits by birds you would rather not see - by offering seeds they won’t eat. If you use more than one type of - seed, put them in separate feeders. This will reduce wasted seeds, as - birds will toss unwanted seeds out of a feeder to get to their - favorites. - - Watch a feeder filled with a seed mix and you’ll see the birds - methodically drop or kick out most of the seeds to get to their - favorite—sunflower. - - [Illustration: Seed mixtures] - - Many birds prefer sunflower. Some prefer millet. A few prefer peanuts. - Sparrows, blackbirds, doves and juncos will eat the other grains used - in pre-made mixes: corn, milo, red millet, oats, wheat and canary - seed. Birds will also kick out artificial “berry” pellets, processed - seed flavored and colored to look like real fruit. - - Black oil sunflower is the hands-down favorite of all the birds that - visit tube and house feeders. Birds who visit platform feeders (doves - and sparrows) favor white proso millet. Ducks, geese and quail will - eat corn. Many cereal grains (corn, milo, oats, canary, wheat, rape, - flax and buckwheat) in mixed bird seeds are NOT favorites of birds - that visit tube feeders. - - The most effective way to attract the largest variety of birds to your - yard is to put out separate feeders for each food: - - a starling-resistant suet feeder - a house feeder for sunflower - a bluebird feeder - a wire mesh cage feeder for peanut - a nectar feeder - a tube feeder for thistle - a stationary or tray fruit feeder - a house or platform feeder for millet - - [Illustration: Suet Feeder] - - [Illustration: Thistle Feeder] - - [Illustration: Feeding Tray] - - [Illustration: Nut Feeder] - - -Birds Attracted by Various Feeders and Foods - - _Tube Feeder with Black Oil Sunflower_ - goldfinches - chickadees - woodpeckers - nuthatches - titmice - redpolls - pine siskins - _... Adding a Tray to the Tube Feeder Will Also Attract_ - cardinals - jays - crossbills - purple finches - house finches - white-throated sparrows - white-crowned sparrows - _Tray or Platform Feeder—with Millet_ - doves - house sparrows - blackbirds - juncos - cowbirds - towhees - white-throated sparrows - tree sparrows - white-crowned sparrows - chipping sparrows - _Tray or Platform Feeder—with Corn_ - starlings - house sparrows - grackles - jays - juncos - bobwhite quail - doves - ring-necked pheasants - white-throated sparrows - _Platform Feeder or Tube Feeder and Tray—with Peanuts_ - cardinals - grackles - titmice - starlings - jays - _Niger Thistle Feeder with Tray_ - goldfinches - house finches - purple finches - redpolls - pine siskins - doves - chickadees - song sparrows - dark-eyed juncos - white-throated sparrows - _Nectar Feeder_ - hummingbirds - orioles - cardinals - tanagers - woodpeckers - finches - thrushes - _Fruit_ - orioles - tanagers - mockingbirds - bluebirds - thrashers - cardinals - woodpeckers - jays - starlings - thrushes - cedar waxwings - yellow-breasted chats - _Hanging Suet Feeder_ - woodpeckers - wrens - chickadees - nuthatches - kinglets - thrashers - creepers - cardinals - starlings - _Peanut Butter Suet_ - woodpeckers - goldfinches - juncos - cardinals - thrushes - jays - kinglets - bluebirds - wrens - starlings - _Hanging Peanut Feeder_ - woodpeckers - chickadees - titmice - - -Uninvited Guests at the Birdfeeder - - Once you get your bird feeding station up and running, you may run - into problems with two kinds of uninvited guests—those interested in - the seeds (squirrels and chipmunks, rats and mice, and starlings and - house sparrows), and those interested in eating a bird for dinner - (cats and hawks). - - [Illustration: Squirrel-resistant feeder] - - When a squirrel is at the feeder, you’re not likely to see birds. - Squirrels will scare off the birds while they eat the seed and - sometimes they will eat the feeder too. The simplest solution is a - squirrel-proof feeder or pole. - - Starlings and house sparrows are not native to North America and are - aggressive towards other species. Choose your feeder and seed to - exclude these species if possible. - - Chipmunks, rats and mice can also become a problem where there is seed - spillage under the feeder. Don’t use mixed bird seed, and if you don’t - have a squirrel problem, add a feeder tray. - - Feral cats and your neighbor’s tabby are a serious threat to many - birds. Keep feeders away from brushpiles and shrubbery, as this offers - cats the necessary cover to surprise birds. - - If there are no cats in your neighborhood and you find a pile of - feathers near your feeder, look for a full-bellied hawk perching on a - tree nearby. Don’t put out poisons or try to trap hawks though, as - this is against state and federal law. - - -Questions about Feeding Wild Birds - - - _When is the best time to start?_ - - Usually, whenever the weather is severe, birds will appreciate a - reliable supplemental food source. In northern areas, start before the - onset of cold weather so birds have time to find the feeder. - - - _When’s the best time to stop?_ - - Although you can feed birds year-round, especially with fruit and - nectar, you can stop feeding seeds once a reliable supply of insects - is available in the spring. - - - _Is it best to stop feeding hummingbirds after Labor Day?_ - - There is no evidence that feeding hummingbirds after Labor Day will - keep them from migrating. In fact, it may help a weakened straggler - refuel for the long haul. Leave your nectar feeders out until the - birds stop coming. - - - _How long does it take for birds to find a feeder?_ - - It may take more time for birds to find window feeders than hanging or - pole-mounted feeders. You may want to wrap aluminum foil around the - top of the feeder hanger. Sometimes all it takes is the reflection of - light on the foil to catch their attention. - - - _My feeder is full of seeds. I haven’t seen a bird in months. Am I doing - something wrong?_ - - When birds desert your feeder, it may be simply that a lot of natural - food is available nearby. Or something may be wrong, such as spoiled - seeds or a contaminated feeder. Throw the seeds away and wash the - feeder. Look at where your feeder is placed. Be sure it’s not - vulnerable to predators. At the same time, make sure it is not in an - open area, away from the cover in which birds usually travel. - - - _Will birds’ feet stick to metal feeders and perches in the wet winter - weather?_ - - Birds don’t have sweat glands in their feet, so they won’t freeze onto - metal feeders. There’s no need to cover any metal feeders parts with - plastic or wood to protect birds’ feet, tongues or eyes. - - - _Do wild birds need grit?_ - - Birds have no teeth to grind their food. The dirt, sand, pebbles and - grit they eat sit in their crop and help grind up their food. Adding - grit to your feeder is helpful, particularly in the winter and spring. - Crushed eggshells do the same thing, and in the spring have an added - benefit: they provide birds with extra calcium for producing eggs of - their own. - - - _Can birds choke on peanut butter?_ - - There is no evidence that birds can choke on peanut butter. However, - birds have no salivary glands. You can make it easier on them by - mixing peanut butter with lard, cornmeal or grit. Your birds will - appreciate drinking water too, from a bird bath or trough. - - - _Won’t suet go bad in the summer?_ - - In the winter, raw beef fat from the local butcher is all you need for - your suet feeder. When temperatures rise, raw fat can melt and get - rancid. It’s safer to use commercially rendered suet cakes in the - spring and summer months. Rendering (boiling) the fat kills bacteria. - - - _What is hummingbird nectar? Do hummers need nectar fortified with vitamins - and minerals?_ - - You can make your own hummingbird nectar by adding ¼ cup of sugar to a - cup of boiling water. Remember, sugar water will ferment when left in - the hot sun, turning nectar deadly. Do not put out a nectar feeder if - you are not willing to clean it at least weekly, preferably twice a - week. - - Hummers eat insects for their protein. There is no evidence that these - tiny birds need vitamin and mineral supplements. There is also no - evidence that adding red food coloring to nectar will harm the birds, - but it probably is not necessary to attract them. Just put your feeder - near red flowers or buy a red hummingbird feeder. - - [Illustration: Hummingbird feeder] - - - _How can I avoid bees at my hummingbird feeder?_ - - Bees will inevitably visit your hummingbird feeder, especially in hot - weather. Little plastic bee guards may help keep them from getting - nectar but it won’t stop them from trying. Don’t take the chance of - contaminating your nectar by putting vegetable oil around the feeding - portals. One solution is to add a few small feeders away from where - people are likely to be bothered by bees. - - - _How close to my window can I put a feeder?_ - - Birds will come right to your window. Sometimes it takes a while for - them to overcome their initial reluctance, so be patient. Don’t worry - that a feeder on the window will cause birds to fly into the window. - Birds fly into the window because they see the reflection of the - woods. Window feeders and decals help break up the reflection. - - - _Is cracked corn coated with a red dye safe to use?_ - - No. The red or pink coating is capstan, a fungicide used on seeds - meant for planting. If you buy a bag of cracked corn or other seed - treated with capstan, return it to the store. It can kill horses, - other mammals and wild birds. - - - _I bought a bag of sunflower seeds early in the spring. Over the summer I - first noticed worms, then moths. What can I do to keep the bugs out?_ - - Moths lay their eggs in sunflower seeds. The eggs lay dormant as long - as the seeds are stored in a cool dry place. In the summer, seeds get - hot and the eggs hatch. The best way to avoid this problem is to buy - seeds in smaller quantities, or store your seeds in a cool, dry place. - It also helps to know where your retailer stores the seed. An - air-conditioned storage unit is the better choice. - - Insects also lay their eggs in burlap bags. Don’t buy seeds in burlap - bags. Don’t buy seed in paper and plastic bags with patched holes. - That may be a sign of insect or rodent infestation. - - -Homes for Birds - - - _Birds You Can Attract to Nest Boxes_ - - Many of the birds that visit feeders and baths may stay and nest in - nearby trees. Most of them, including cardinals, doves and orioles, - don’t nest in boxes. You can still help them by considering their food - and shelter requirements in your landscape plans. - - More than two dozen North American birds nest in bird houses. The - following descriptions will help you determine which birds might visit - your neighborhood. - - - _Bluebirds_ - - If you put up a bluebird house near an old field, orchard, park, - cemetery or golf course, you might have a chance of attracting a pair - of bluebirds. They prefer nest boxes on a tree stump or wooden fence - post between three and five feet high. Bluebirds also nest in - abandoned woodpecker nest holes. - - The most important measurement is the hole diameter. An inch and a - half is small enough to deter starlings, which, along with house - sparrows, have been known to kill bluebirds, as well as adults sitting - on the nest. Bluebirds have problems with other animals too. - Discourage cats, snakes, raccoons and chipmunks by mounting the house - on a metal pole, or use a metal predator guard on a wood post. - - - _American Robins_ - - The robin is our largest thrush. They prefer to build their nest in - the crotch of a tree. If you don’t have an appropriate tree, you can - offer a nesting platform. Pick a spot six feet or higher up on a - shaded tree trunk or under the overhang of a shed or porch. Creating a - “mud puddle” nearby offers further enticement, as robins use mud to - hold their nests together. - - - _Chickadees, Nuthatches and Titmice_ - - Chickadees, titmice and nuthatches share the same food, feeders, and - habitat. If you put a properly designed nest box in a wooded yard, at - least one of these species might check it out. - - Put chickadee houses at eye level. Hang them from limbs or secure them - to tree trunks. The entrance hole should be 1⅛ inches to attract - chickadees, yet exclude house sparrows. Anchor houses for nuthatches - on tree trunks five to six feet off the ground. - - [Illustration: Titmouse house] - - - _Brown Creepers and Prothonotary Warblers_ - - Look for brown creepers to nest behind the curved bark of tree trunks. - In heavily wooded yards, slab bark houses appeal to creepers. - Prothonotary warblers also prefer slab bark houses, or bluebird boxes - attached to a tree trunk, but theirs must be placed over water (lakes, - rivers or swamps) with a good canopy of trees overhead. - - - _Wrens_ - - Wrens don’t seem to be very picky about where they nest. Try nest - boxes with a 1 inch × 2 inch horizontal slot (1½ inch × 2½ inch for - the larger Carolina wrens) instead of a circle. These are easier for - the wrens to use. However, the larger the opening, the more likely it - is house sparrows will occupy the box. - - Wrens are known for filling a nest cavity with twigs, regardless of - whether they use the nest to raise their young. Since male house wrens - build several nests for the female to choose from, hang several nest - boxes at eye level on partly sunlit tree limbs. Wrens are sociable and - will accept nest boxes quite close to your house. - - [Illustration: Inside of nesting cavity] - - - _Tree and Violet-green Swallows_ - - Tree swallows prefer nest boxes attached to dead trees. Space the - boxes about seven feet apart for these white-bellied birds with - iridescent blue-green backs and wings. The ideal setting for these - insect-eaters is on the edge of a large field near a lake, pond or - river. - - Violet-green swallows nest in forested mountains of the West; boxes - placed on large trees in a semi-open woodland will attract them. - - - _Barn Swallows and Phoebes_ - - If you have the right habitat, like an open barn or old shed, barn - swallows and phoebes are easy to attract. It’s their nesting behavior, - not their plumage or song, that catches your attention. However, these - birds tend to nest where you would rather not have them: on a ledge - right over your front door. To avoid a mess by your door, offer the - birds a nesting shelf nearby where you’d rather have them. - - [Illustration: Nesting ledge] - - - _Purple Martins_ - - Many people want martins in their yards because, it’s been said, these - birds eat 2,000 mosquitoes a day. While it’s true that they eat flying - insects, don’t expect purple martins to eliminate mosquitoes in your - yard completely. Martins prefer dragonflies, which prey on mosquito - larvae. If you want to help rid your yard of mosquitoes, put up a bat - roosting box. One bat can eat thousands of mosquitoes a night. - - Martins are entertaining creatures, however, and you’ll enjoy watching - their antics in your backyard. You have the best chance of attracting - martins if you put a house on the edge of a pond or river, surrounded - by a field or lawn. Martins need a radius of about 40 feet of - unobstructed flying space around their houses. A telephone wire nearby - gives them a place to perch in sociable groups. - - [Illustration: Ceramic house] - - Martins nest in groups, so you’ll need a house with a minimum of four - large rooms—6 or more inches on all sides, with a 2½ inch entrance - hole about 1½ inches above the floor. Ventilation and drainage are - critical factors in martin house design. Porches, railings, porch - dividers and supplemental roof perches, like a TV antenna, make any - house more appealing. - - You can also make houses from gourds by fashioning an entrance hole - and small holes in the bottom for drainage. If you use gourds, it’s - not necessary to add railings and perches. Adult martins will perch on - the wire used to hang the houses. Before you select a house, think - about what kind of pole you’re going to put it on. Martins occupy a - house ten to twenty feet off the ground. Some poles are less - cumbersome than others. - - Gourd houses are the easiest to set up. String them from a wire - between two poles, from a sectional aluminum pole, or on pulleys - mounted to a crossbar high up on a pole. - - You can mount lightweight aluminum houses for martins on telescoping - poles, providing easy access for maintenance and inspection. Because - of their weight (more than 30 pounds), wood houses should not be - mounted on telescoping poles. You’ll have to use a sturdy metal or a - wood pole attached to a pivot post. The problem with this lowering - technique is that you can’t tilt the house without damaging the nests - inside. If you put your house on a shorter, fixed pole, ten to twelve - feet high, you can use a ladder to inspect and maintain it. - - - _Flycatchers_ - - The great crested flycatcher and its western cousin, the ash-throated - flycatcher, are common in wooded suburbs and rural areas with - woodlots. Their natural nesting sites are abandoned woodpecker holes. - Flycatchers may nest in a bird house if it is placed about ten feet up - in a tree in an orchard or at the edge of a field or stream. This is a - longshot, but well worth the effort if you are successful. - - - _Woodpeckers_ - - You can attract all types of woodpeckers with a suet feeder, but only - the flicker is likely to use a bird house. They prefer a box with - roughened interior and a floor covered with a two-inch layer of wood - chips or coarse sawdust. Flickers are especially attracted to nest - boxes filled with sawdust, which they “excavate” to suit themselves. - For best results, place the box high up on a tree trunk, exposed to - direct sunlight. - - Try building a birdhouse for the other species of woodpeckers - following the guidelines in this booklet. You might be surprised! - - - _Owls_ - - Most owls seldom build their own nests. Great horned and long-eared - owls prefer abandoned crow and hawk nests. Other owls (barred, barn, - saw-whet, boreal and screech) nest in tree cavities and bird houses. - - Barn owls are best known for selecting nesting sites near farms. Where - trees are sparse, these birds will nest in church steeples, silos and - barns. If you live near a farm or a golf course, try fastening a nest - box for owls about 15 feet up on a tree trunk. - - Screech owls prefer abandoned woodpecker holes at the edge of a field - or neglected orchard. They will readily take to boxes lined with an - inch or two of wood shavings. If you clean the box out in late spring - after the young owls have fledged, you may attract a second tenant—a - kestrel. Trees isolated from larger tracts of woods have less chance - of squirrels taking over the box. - - [Illustration: Owl house] - - - Selecting a House - - In the bird house business, there’s no such thing as “one size fits - all.” Decide which bird you want to attract, then get a house for that - particular bird. Look through any book or catalog and you’ll see bird - houses of all sizes and shapes, with perches and without, made of - materials you might not have thought of: recycled paper, gourds, - plastic, rubber, pottery, metal and concrete. The proper combination - of quality materials and design makes a good birdhouse. - - [Illustration: Covered tray feeder] - - -Materials - - Wood is just about the best building material for any birdhouse. It’s - durable, has good insulating qualities and breathes. - Three-quarter-inch thick bald cypress and red cedar are recommended. - Pine and exterior grade plywood will do, but they are not as durable. - - It makes no difference whether the wood is slab, rough-cut or - finished, as long as the inside has not been treated with stains or - preservatives. Fumes from the chemicals could harm the birds. - - There’s no need to paint cypress and cedar, but pine and plywood - houses will last longer with a coat of water-based exterior latex - paint. White is the color for purple martin houses. Tan, gray or dull - green works best for the other cavity nesting species. The dull, light - colors reflect heat and are less conspicuous to predators. Don’t paint - the inside of the box or the entrance hole. - - Regardless of which wood you select, gluing all the joints before you - nail them will extend the life of your bird house. Galvanized or brass - shank nails, hinges and screws resist rusting and hold boxes together - more tightly as they age. - - [Illustration: Suspended wooden nesting box] - - Resist the temptation to put a metal roof on your bird house. - Reflective metal makes sense for martin houses up on a sixteen-foot - pole, but when it’s tacked onto the roof of a wood chickadee house, - the shiny metal is more likely to attract predators. - - Natural gourds make very attractive bird houses. They breathe, and - because they sway in the wind they are less likely to be taken over by - house sparrows and starlings. - - Grow your own gourds and you’ll have dozens to choose from in the - years ahead. If you don’t have the space to grow them, a coat of - polyurethane or exterior latex (on the outside only) will add years to - the one you have. - - Properly designed pottery, aluminum (for purple martins only), - concrete and plastic houses are durable, but don’t drop them. - - Be sure to provide ventilation, drainage, and easy access for - maintenance and monitoring. Concrete (or a mix of concrete and - sawdust) offers protection other houses cannot: squirrels can’t chew - their way in. - - -Design - - How elaborate you make your bird house depends on your own tastes. In - addition to where you place the box, the most important considerations - are: box height, depth, floor dimensions, diameter of entrance hole - and height of the hole above the box floor. - - Refer to the following chart before building your nest box, keeping in - mind that birds make their own choices, without regard for charts. So - don’t be surprised if you find tenants you never expected in a house - you intended for someone else. - - [Illustration: Squirrel on feeder] - - -Nest Box Dimensions - - Species Box floor Box Entrance Entrance Placement - (inches) height height (inches) diameter - (inches) (inches) height - (feet) - - American Robin[1] 7×8 8 —— —— - Eastern & Western 5×5 8-12 6-10 1½ 4-6 - Bluebirds - Mountain Bluebird 5×5 8-12 6-10 1½ 4-6 - Chickadee 4×4 8-10 6-8 1⅛ 4-15 - Titmouse 4×4 10-12 6-10 1¼ 5-15 - Ash-throated Flycatcher 6×6 8-12 6-10 1½ 5-15 - Great Crested Flycatcher 6×6 8-12 6-10 1¾ 5-15 - Phoebe[1] 6×6 6 —— —— 8-12 - Brown-headed/Pygmy/ 4×4 8-10 6-8 1¼ 5-15 - Red-breasted Nuthatch - White-breasted Nuthatch 4×4 8-10 6-8 1⅜ 5-15 - Prothonotary Warbler 5×5 6 4-5 1⅛ 4-8 - Barn Swallow[1] 6×6 6 —— —— 8-12 - Purple Martin 6×6 6 1-2 2¼ 6-20 - Tree and Violet-Green 5×5 6-8 4-6 1½ 5-15 - Swallows - Downy Woodpecker 4×4 8-10 6-8 1¼ 5-15 - Hairy Woodpecker 6×6 12-15 9-12 1½ 8-20 - Lewis’s Woodpecker 7×7 16-18 14-16 2½ 12-20 - Northern Flicker 7×7 16-18 14-16 2½ 6-20 - Pileated Woodpecker 8×8 16-24 12-20 3×4 15-25 - Red-Headed Woodpecker 6×6 12-15 9-12 2 10-20 - Yellow-bellied Sapsucker 5×5 12-15 9-12 1½ 10-20 - Bewick’s/House Wrens 4×4 6-8 4-6 1¼ 5-10 - Carolina Wren 4×4 6-8 4-6 1½ 5-10 - Barn Owl 10×18 15-18 4 6 12-18 - Screech-Owl and Kestrel 8×8 12-15 9-12 3 10-30 - Osprey 48×48 platform - Red-tailed Hawk/Great 24×24 platform - Horned Owl - Wood Duck 10×18 10-24 12-16 4 10-20 - - -[1]_Use nesting shelf, platform with three sides and an open front_ - - - Now that you have the correct dimensions for your bird house, take a - look at how to make it safe: ventilation, drainage, susceptibility to - predators, and ease of maintenance. - - - - - _Ventilation_ - - - You should provide air vents in bird boxes. There are two ways to - provide ventilation: leave gaps between the roof and sides of the box, - or drill ¼ inch holes just below the roof. - - - - - _Drainage_ - - - Water becomes a problem when it sits in the bottom of a bird house. A - roof with sufficient slope and overhang offers some protection. - Drilling the entrance hole on an upward slant may also help keep the - water out. Regardless of design, driving rain will get in through the - entrance hole. You can assure proper drainage by cutting away the - corners of the box floor and drilling ¼-inch holes. Nest boxes will - last longer if the floors are recessed about ¼ inch. - - - - - _Entrance Hole_ - - - Look for the entrance hole on the front panel near the top. A rough - surface both inside and out makes it easier for the adults to get into - the box and, when it’s time, for the nestlings to climb out. - - If your box is made of finished wood, add a couple of grooves outside - below the hole. Open the front panel and add grooves, cleats or wire - mesh to the inside. Never put up a bird house with a perch below the - entrance hole. Perches offer starlings, house sparrows and other - predators a convenient place to wait for lunch. Don’t be tempted by - duplexes or houses that have more than one entrance hole. Except for - purple martins, cavity-nesting birds prefer not to share a house. - While these condos look great in your yard, starlings and house - sparrows are inclined to use them. - - - - - _Accessibility_ - - - Bird houses should be easily accessible so you can see how your birds - are doing and clean out the house. Monitor your bird houses every week - and evict unwanted creatures such as house sparrows or starlings. - - Be careful when you inspect your bird boxes—you may find something - other than a bird inside. Don’t be surprised to see squirrels, mice, - snakes or insects. Look for fleas, flies, mites, larvae and lice in - the bottom of the box. If you find insects and parasites, your first - reaction may be to grab the nearest can of insect spray. If you do, - use only insecticides known to be safe around birds: 1 percent - rotenone powder or pyrethrin spray. If wasps are a problem, coat the - inside top of the box with bar soap. - - [Illustration: Squirrel in nest box] - - Here’s how to check your nest boxes for unwanted visitors: - - Watch the nest for 20-30 minutes. If you don’t see or hear any birds - near the box, go over and tap on the box. If you hear bird sounds, - open the top and take a quick peek inside. If everything is all right, - close the box. If you see problems (parasites or predators), remove - them and close the box. - - A bird house with easy access makes the job simple. Most bird houses - can be opened from the top, the side, the front or the bottom. Boxes - that open from the top and the front provide the easiest access. - Opening the box from the top is less likely to disturb nesting birds. - It’s impossible to open a box from the bottom without the nest falling - out. While side- and front-opening boxes are convenient for cleaning - and monitoring, they have one drawback: the nestlings may jump out. If - this happens, don’t panic. Pick them up and put them back in the nest. - Don’t worry that the adults will reject the nestlings if you handle - them. That’s a myth; most birds have a terrible sense of smell. - - [Illustration: Cleaning house] - - If you clean out your nest boxes after each brood has fledged, several - pairs may use the nest throughout the summer. Some cavity-nesting - birds will not nest again in a box full of old nesting material. - - In the fall, after you’ve cleaned out your nest box for the last time, - you can put it in storage or leave it out. Gourds and pottery last - longer if you take them in for the winter. You can leave your purple - martin houses up, but plug the entrance holes to discourage starlings - and house sparrows. - - Leaving your wood and concrete houses out provides shelter for birds, - flying squirrels and other animals during winter. Each spring, - thoroughly clean all houses left out for the winter. - - - - - _Limiting Predator Access_ - - - Proper box depth, and roof and entrance hole design will help reduce - access by predators, such as raccoons, cats, opossums, and squirrels. - Sometimes all it takes is an angled roof with a three-inch overhang to - discourage small mammals. - - The entrance hole is the only thing between a predator and a bird - house full of nestlings. By itself, the ¾-inch wall is not wide enough - to keep out the arm of a raccoon or house cat. Add a predator guard (a - ¾-inch thick rectangular wood block with an entrance hole cut in it) - to thicken the wall and you’ll discourage sparrows, starlings, and - cats. - - -Bird House Placement - - Where you put your bird house is as important as its design and - construction. Cavity-nesting birds are very particular about where - they live. If you don’t have the right habitat, the birds are not - likely to find the house. You can modify your land to attract the - birds you want to see by putting out a bird bath, planting - fruit-bearing shrubs, including more trees or installing a pond with a - waterfall. - - [Illustration: Variety of bird feeders] - - Once you’ve matched up the right bird house with the appropriate - habitat, you have to know where to put the nest box. Should you hang - it from a tree limb, nail it to a fence or mount it on a pole or a - tree trunk? - - Most species require a fairly narrow range of heights for nest boxes. - After checking the table in this brochure, pick a height that’s - convenient for you. After all, you will want to watch what goes on and - keep the box clean. If you want to watch chickadees from your second - floor window or deck, fifteen feet is reasonable but it’s a lot easier - to clean out a box at eye level. - - Here are some tips on where to put bird houses: - - don’t put bird houses near bird feeders. - - houses mounted on metal poles are less vulnerable to predators than - houses nailed to tree trunks or hung from tree limbs. - - use no more than four small nest boxes or one large box per acre for - any one species. - - put about 100 yards between bluebird boxes and 75 yards between - swallow boxes. (If you have both species, pair the houses with one - bluebird box 25 feet from a swallow box.) - - don’t put more than one box in a tree unless the tree is extremely - large or the boxes are for different species. - - if you have very hot summers, face the entrance holes of your boxes - north or east to avoid overheating the box. - - -Protection from Predators - - - _Cats_ - - [Illustration: Cat] - - Nesting birds are extremely vulnerable to cats, as are fledglings and - birds roosting for the night. Bell collars on cats offer birds little - protection. Nailing a sheet metal guard or cone to a tree trunk is - unsightly, but may deter less agile felines. Houses mounted on metal - poles are the most difficult for predators to reach, especially if you - smear the poles with a petroleum jelly and hot pepper mixture. The - best deterrent is for owners to keep their cats inside whenever - possible. - - - _Dogs_ - - Pet dogs are a hazard to nestlings in the spring and summer. Don’t let - your dog run loose during nesting time. - - - _Squirrels_ - - Red squirrels, and sometimes gray squirrels, can become a serious - menace to bird houses and the birds themselves. If you find your nest - hole enlarged, chances are a red squirrel is the culprit. Once inside - the box, squirrels make a meal of the eggs and young. Adding a - predator guard made of sheet metal to the entrance hole is usually - enough to keep squirrels out. - - - _Raccoons and Opossums_ - - Raccoons and opossums will stick their arms inside nest boxes and try - to pull out the adult, young, and eggs. Adding a ¾-inch thick predator - guard to the bird house or an inverted cone to its pole support is a - simple solution. - - - _Snakes_ - - Snakes play an important part in the balance of nature. If you find - one in your bird house, don’t kill it. Snake-proof your house by - putting it on a metal pole lathered with petroleum jelly or red - cayenne pepper. - - - _House Sparrows and Starlings_ - - If you don’t discourage them, these two nuisance species introduced - from Europe will harass or kill cavity-nesting birds. Since house - sparrows and starlings are not protected by law, you may destroy their - nests. But remember, other birds are protected by law. - - - _House Wrens_ - - House wrens sometimes interfere with the nesting success of other - birds by puncturing their eggs. But, unlike the house sparrow and - starling, these birds are native to North America and are protected by - law. Don’t be tempted to intervene when wrens appear at your backyard - birdhouse. - - - _Insects_ - - Many insects lay their eggs and pupate in bird houses. Inspect your - bird houses for signs of gypsy moths, blow flies, wasps, ants, gnats - and bees. Keep bees and wasps from attaching their nests by coating - the inside of the roof with bar soap. In areas where gypsy moths - abound, avoid placing boxes in oak trees, which the gypsy moths favor. - - Pyrethrin and rotenone insecticides are recommended for killing fly - larvae, bird lice and mites after birds have finished nesting for the - season. - - -Attracting Birds - - As people learn to enjoy the beauty of birds around their home, they - may wish to improve the “habitat” in their yard so that more birds - will visit their property. You can attract birds by placing bird - feeders, nest boxes and bird baths in your yard, and by planting a - variety of trees, shrubs, and flowers. These can provide good nesting - sites, winter shelter, places to hide from predators and natural food - supplies that are available year-round. - - [Illustration: Bird bath] - - -Landscaping for Birds - - The most surefire way to attract birds to your backyard is to make - certain the appropriate habitat is available to them. You may be lucky - and already have a good supply of food, shelter, and water available - for our feathered friends. In that case, you have to do little more - than stand back and watch. - - However, for most backyards, bird habitat must be created. It’s called - “landscaping for birds” and it can be as simple or extravagant as you - wish. Whatever the approach, anyone who has ever tried this type of - landscaping comes away with a real love for it after their first - sparkling hummingbirds hover at the coral bells, or the perky catbird - comes down for a drink of water from the birdbath, or the sleek - waxwings gather en masse to sample bittersweet berries. - - -Benefits of Landscaping for Birds - - You can derive many benefits from landscaping to attract birds to your - yard: - - - _Increased Wildlife Populations_ - - You can probably double the number of bird species using your property - with a good landscaping plan. - - - _Energy Conservation_ - - By carefully arranging your conifer and hardwood trees, you can lower - winter heating and summer cooling bills for your house. - - - _Soil Conservation_ - - Certain landscape plants can prevent soil erosion. - - - _Natural Beauty_ - - A good landscaping plan contributes to a beautiful, natural setting - around your home that is pleasing to people as well as birds. - - [Illustration: Bath in garden setting] - - - _Wildlife Photography_ - - Wildlife photography is a wonderful hobby for people of all ages. - - - _Birdwatching_ - - Try keeping a list of all the birds you see in your yard or from your - yard. Some people have counted nearly 200 species of birds in their - yard! - - - _Natural Insect Control_ - - Birds such as tree swallows, house wrens, brown thrashers and orioles - eat a variety of insects. - - - _Food Production_ - - Some plants that attract wildlife are also appealing to humans. People - and wildlife can share cherries, chokecherries, strawberries, and - crabapples. - - - _Property Value_ - - A good landscaping plan can greatly increase the value of your - property by adding natural beauty and an abundance of wildlife. - - - _Habitat for Kids_ - - Some of the best wildlife habitats are the best habitats for young - people to discover the wonders of nature. A backyard bird habitat can - stimulate young people to develop a lifelong interest in wildlife and - conservation. - - -Basics of Landscaping for Birds - - Landscaping for birds involves nine basic principles: - - - _Food_ - - Every bird species has its own unique food requirements that may - change as the seasons change. Learn the food habits of the birds you - wish to attract. Then plant the appropriate trees, shrubs, and flowers - to provide the fruits, berries, seeds, acorns, nuts and nectar. - - - _Water_ - - You may be able to double the number of bird species in your yard by - providing a source of water. A frog pond, water garden, or bird bath - will get lots of bird use, especially if the water is dripping, - splashing or moving. - - - _Shelter_ - - Birds need places where they can hide from predators and escape from - severe weather. Trees (including dead ones), shrubs, tall grass and - bird houses provide excellent shelter. - - - _Diversity_ - - The best landscaping plan is one that includes a variety of native - plants. This helps attract the most bird species. - - - _Four Seasons_ - - Give birds food and shelter throughout the year by planting a variety - of trees, shrubs and flowers that provide year-round benefits. - - - _Arrangement_ - - Properly arrange the different habitat components in your yard. - Consider the effects of prevailing winds (and snow drifting) so your - yard will be protected from harsh winter weather. - - - _Protection_ - - Birds should be protected from unnecessary mortality. When choosing - the placement of bird feeders and nest boxes, consider their - accessibility to predators. Picture windows can also be dangerous for - birds, who fly directly at windows when they see the reflection of - trees and shrubs. A network of parallel, vertical strings spaced 4 - inches apart can be placed on the outside of windows to prevent this - problem. Be cautious about the kinds of herbicides and pesticides used - in your yard. Apply them only when necessary and strictly according to - label instructions. In fact, try gardening and lawn care without using - pesticides. Details can be found in gardening books at the library. - - - _Hardiness Zones_ - - When considering plants not native to your area, consult a plant - hardiness zone map, found in most garden catalogues. Make sure the - plants you want are rated for the winter hardiness zone classification - of your area. - - - _Soils and Topography_ - - Consult your local garden center, university or county extension - office to have your soil tested. Plant species are often adapted to - certain types of soils. If you know what type of soil you have, you - can identify the types of plants that will grow best in your yard. - - -Plants for Wild Birds - - Seven types of plants are important as bird habitat: - - - _Conifers_ - - Conifers are evergreen trees and shrubs that include pines, spruces, - firs, arborvitae, junipers, cedars, and yews. These plants are - important as escape cover, winter shelter and summer nesting sites. - Some also provide sap, fruits and seeds. - - - _Grasses and Legumes_ - - Grasses and legumes can provide cover for ground nesting birds—but - only if the area is not mowed during the nesting season. Some grasses - and legumes provide seeds as well. Native prairie grasses are becoming - increasingly popular for landscaping purposes. - - - _Nectar-producing Plants_ - - Nectar-producing plants are very popular for attracting hummingbirds - and orioles. Flowers with tubular red corollas are especially - attractive to hummingbirds. Other trees, shrubs, vines and flowers - also can provide nectar for hummingbirds. - - - _Summer-fruiting Plants_ - - This category includes plants that produce fruits or berries from May - through August. In the summer these plants can attract brown - thrashers, catbirds, robins, thrushes, waxwings, woodpeckers, orioles, - cardinals, towhees and grosbeaks. Examples of summer-fruiting plants - are various species of cherry, chokecherry, honeysuckle, raspberry, - serviceberry, blackberry, blueberry, grape, mulberry, plum and - elderberry. - - - _Fall-fruiting Plants_ - - This landscape component includes shrubs and vines whose fruits ripen - in the fall. These foods are important both for migratory birds which - build up fat reserves before migration and as a food source for - nonmigratory species that need to enter the winter season in good - physical condition. Fall-fruiting plants include dogwoods, mountain - ash, winter-berries, cotoneasters and buffalo-berries. - - - _Winter-fruiting Plants_ - - Winter-fruiting plants are those whose fruits remain attached to the - plants long after they first become ripe in the fall. Many are not - palatable until they have frozen and thawed many times. Examples are - glossy black chokecherry, Siberian and “red splendor” crabapple, - snowberry, bittersweet, sumacs, American highbush cranberry, eastern - and European wahoo, Virginia creeper, and Chinaberry. - - - _Nut and Acorn Plants_ - - These include oaks, hickories, buckeyes, chestnuts, butternuts, - walnuts and hazels. A variety of birds, such as jays, woodpeckers and - titmice, eat the meats of broken nuts and acorns. These plants also - contribute to good nesting habitat. - - -How to Get Started - - Think of this project as landscaping for birds. Your goal will be to - plant an assortment of trees, shrubs and flowers that will attract - birds. If you plan carefully it can be inexpensive and fun for the - whole family. The best way to get started is to follow these - guidelines: - - - _Set Your Priorities_ - - Decide what types of birds you wish to attract, then build your plan - around the needs of those species. Talk to friends and neighbors to - find out what kinds of birds frequent your area. Attend a local bird - club meeting and talk to local birdwatchers about how they have - attracted birds to their yards. - - - _Use Native Plants When Possible_ - - Check with the botany department of a nearby college or university or - with your state’s natural heritage program for lists of trees, shrubs, - and wildflowers native to your area. Use this list as a starting point - for your landscape plan. These plants are naturally adapted to the - climate of your area and are a good long-term investment. Many native - plants are both beautiful for landscaping purposes and excellent for - birds. If you include nonnative plant species in your plan, be sure - they are not considered “invasive pests” by plant experts. Check out - the bird books in your local library. - - - _Draw a Map of Your Property_ - - Draw a map of your property to scale using graph paper. Identify - buildings, sidewalks, power lines, buried cables, fences, septic tank - fields, trees, shrubs and patios. Consider how your plan relates to - your neighbor’s property—will the tree you plant shade out the - neighbor’s vegetable garden? Identify and map sunny or shady sites, - low or wet sites, sandy sites, and native plants that will be left in - place. - - Also identify special views that you wish to enhance—areas for pets, - benches, picnics, storage, playing, sledding, vegetable gardens and - paths. - - - _Get Your Soil Tested_ - - Get your soil tested by your local garden center, county extension - agent or soil conservation service. Find out what kinds of soil you - have and then find out if your soils have nutrient or organic - deficiencies that fertilization or addition of compost can correct. - The soils you have will help determine the plants which can be - included in your landscaping plan. - - - _Review the Seven Plant Habitat Components_ - - Review the seven plant components described previously. Which - components are already present? Which ones are missing? Remember that - you are trying to provide food and cover through all four seasons. - Develop a list of plants that you think will provide the missing - habitat components. - - - _Talk to Resource Experts_ - - Review this plant list with landscaping resource experts who can match - your ideas with your soil types, soil drainage and the plants - available through state or private nurseries. People at the nearby - arboretum can help with your selections. At an arboretum you can also - see what many plants look like. Talk with local bird clubs, the - members of which probably are knowledgeable about landscaping for - birds. - - - _Develop Your Planting Plan_ - - Sketch on your map the plants you wish to add. Draw trees to a scale - that represents three-fourths of their mature width, and shrubs at - their full mature width. This will help you calculate how many trees - and shrubs you need. There is a tendency to include so many trees that - eventually your yard will be mostly shaded. Be sure to leave open - sunny sites where flowers and shrubs can thrive. Decide how much money - you can spend and the time span of your project. Don’t try to do too - much at once. You might try a five-year development plan. - - - _Implement Your Plan_ - - Finally, go to it! Begin your plantings and include your entire family - so they can all feel they are helping wildlife. Document your - plantings on paper and by photographs. Try taking pictures of your - yard from the same spots every year to document the growth of your - plants. - - - _Maintain Your Plan_ - - Keep your new trees, shrubs and flowers adequately watered, and keep - your planting areas weed-free by use of landscaping film and wood - chips or shredded bark mulch. This avoids the use of herbicides for - weed control. If problems develop with your plants, consult a local - nursery, garden center or county extension agent. - - - _And Finally ..._ - - Make sure to take the time to enjoy the wildlife that will eventually - respond to your landscaping efforts. - - -Protecting Bird Habitat - - Each year your state wildlife agency, private conservation groups, the - U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, other federal agencies, and many private - landowners and business leaders work together to conserve and manage - millions of acres of habitat—swamps, forests, ponds and grasslands. - These habitats provide nesting habitat for songbirds and shorebirds, - ducks and geese, hawks and owls. - - You can make a difference in helping protect habitats for migratory - birds by joining Partners in Flight, a consortium of the above groups - dedicated to finding reasonable ways to maintain the health of bird - populations in the Western Hemisphere. For more information about - Partners in Flight, please contact U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, - Office of Migratory Bird Management, 4401 North Fairfax Drive, - Arlington, VA 22203. - - Another way that you can help preserve a disappearing but valuable - natural resource—wetlands—is by buying Federal Duck Stamps at your - local post office. Money from sales of these stamps is used to protect - wetlands. For more information, write U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, - Federal Duck Stamp Office, 1849 C Street, NW, Washington, DC 20240. - - -_All photos copyright Maslowski Photo, Inc. except as noted._ - - -Additional Resources - - - _Books_ - - A large variety of books are available on attracting, housing, - feeding, and gardening for birds. Check your local library, book - store, or the Internet, for a selection of books on attracting birds - to your yard. - - - _Web Sites_ - - There are many good on-line resources for bird enthusiasts. Below are - a few useful web sites that discuss some of the more popular backyard - birds; general information on bird feeding, housing, and gardening for - birds; ways to keep birds safe from predators; and opportunities for - you to become citizen scientists just by watching birds at your - feeder. - - _WildBirds.com_—feeding and attracting - http://www.wildbirds.com - - _Birding/Wild Birds_—backyard birds, birdhouses and feeders - http://www.birding.about.com/hobbies/birding - - _Backyard Wildlife Habitats_—National Wildlife Federation - http://www.nwf.org/habitats - - _Cats Indoors_—American Birding Conservancy - http://www.abcbirds.org/cats/catsindoors.htm - - _North American Bluebird Society_ - http://www.nabluebirdsociety.org - - _Purple Martin Conservation Association_ - http://www.purplemartin.org - - _BirdSource_—FeederWatch and Classroom FeederWatch - http://birdsource.org - - _National Bird-Feeding Society_ - http://www.birdfeeding.org/ - - _Stokes Birds at Home/Birding_—feeding, housing, and gardening - http://www.stokesbirdsathome.com/birding - - - _Disclaimer_ - - _The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service intends no endorsement and cannot - guarantee the accuracy of information found on these web sites._ - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - -—Silently corrected a few typos. - -—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - -—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - -—Website references from the printed book may not be current. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of For the Birds, by Anonymous - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FOR THE BIRDS *** - -***** This file should be named 61796-0.txt or 61796-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/1/7/9/61796/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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} -dl.catalog dt { margin-top:1em; } -.author { text-align:right; margin-top:0em; margin-bottom:0em; display:block; } - -dl.biblio dt { margin-top:.6em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:justify; clear:both; } -dl.biblio dt div { display:block; float:left; margin-left:-6em; width:6em; clear:both; } -dl.biblio dt.center { margin-left:0em; text-align:center; text-indent:0; } -dl.biblio dd { margin-top:.3em; margin-left:3em; text-align:justify; font-size:90%; } -p.biblio { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; } -.clear { clear:both; } -p.book { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; } -p.review { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; font-size:80%; } -p.pcap { margin-left:0em; text-indent:0; text-align:center; margin-top:0; } -p.pcapc { margin-left:4.7em; text-indent:0em; text-align:justify; } -span.attr { font-size:80%; font-family:sans-serif; } -span.pn { display:inline-block; width:4.7em; text-align:left; margin-left:0; text-indent:0; }</style> -</head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of For the Birds, by Anonymous - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll -have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using -this ebook. - - - -Title: For the Birds - -Author: Anonymous - -Release Date: April 10, 2020 [EBook #61796] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FOR THE BIRDS *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - -</pre> - -<div id="cover" class="img"> -<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="For the Birds" width="600" height="647" /> -</div> -<div class="box"> -<p class="center"><span class="ss">U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service</span></p> -<h1><span class="ss">For the Birds</span></h1> -<p class="center"><span class="ss">http://birds.fws.gov</span></p> -<p class="center"><span class="ss">March 2001</span></p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_1">1</div> -<p class="tb"><i>Among the fondest and -most memorable -moments of childhood -are the discoveries of -songbirds nesting in -the backyard. The -distinctive, mud-lined -nests of robins and -their beautiful blue -eggs captivate people of -all ages. Likewise, the -nesting activities of -house wrens, cardinals, -chickadees and other -common birds can -stimulate a lifelong -interest in nature.</i></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_2">2</div> -<p><i>As you learn to enjoy -the beauty of birdlife -around their home, you -may wish to improve -the “habitat” in your -yard so that more birds -will visit your property. -You can attract birds -by placing bird feeders, -nest boxes, and bird -baths in your yard, and -by planting a variety -of trees, shrubs, and -flowers. These can -provide good nesting -sites, winter shelter, -places to hide from -predators and natural -food supplies that are -available year-round.</i></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_3">3</div> -<p><i>Backyard bird feeding is a -convenient way to enjoy wildlife. -More than 65 million Americans of -all ages watch, feed and landscape -for birds.</i></p> -<p><i>It doesn’t matter where you live—in -an apartment, townhouse or single -family dwelling, in the city, suburbs -or country. Just stand still and you’ll -hear them: wild birds. It is hard to -imagine life without them.</i></p> -<p><i>Bird watching is one of the fastest -growing forms of outdoor recreation -in the country. Each year millions -of people discover for the first time -the joys of birdwatching. It’s easy -to understand why. Birds are fun -to watch.</i></p> -<p><i>And you can watch them just about -everywhere. The most convenient -place to start is right in your own -backyard. All it takes to get their -attention is food or water, a place -to build a nest and appropriate -vegetation.</i></p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p02.jpg" alt="Bird on window feeder" width="800" height="573" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_4">4</div> -<h2 id="c1"><span class="small"><i>Getting Started</i></span></h2> -<h3 id="c2">Backyard Bird Feeding</h3> -<p class="bq">When you want to attract a particular -bird species and keep it coming back -to your backyard, what you do will -be determined by where you live, -and the time of year. For example, -on any winter day, you are likely to -see a cardinal at a sunflower feeder -in Virginia, a goldfinch at a thistle -feeder in Massachusetts and -hummingbirds at a nectar feeder in -southern California.</p> -<p class="bq">A bird field identification book has -pictures of different birds and will -help you find the names for the birds -you’re likely to see and the time of -year you’re most likely to see them. -So, first determine what birds are -likely to occur in your area.</p> -<h3 id="c3">Feeder Selection</h3> -<p class="bq">When the ground is covered with -snow and ice, it’s hard to resist just -tossing seed out the door. But it’s -healthier for the birds to get their -handouts at a feeding station, rather -than off the ground. Regardless of -the season, food that sits on the -ground for even a short time is -exposed to contamination by -dampness, mold, bacteria, animal -droppings, lawn fertilizers and -pesticides.</p> -<p class="bq">You can start simply with a piece of -scrap wood elevated a few inches -above the ground. Add a few holes for -drainage and you’ve built a platform -feeder. It won’t be long before the -birds find it.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_5">5</div> -<p class="bq">There are several factors to consider -after you’ve decided to feed birds in -your backyard.</p> -<h2 id="c4"><span class="small"><i>Placement</i></span></h2> -<p class="bq">Where do you want to watch your -birds? From a kitchen window ... a -sliding glass door opening onto a -deck ... a second-story window?</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p03.jpg" alt="Window feeder" width="300" height="308" /> -</div> -<p class="bq">Pick a location that is easy to get to. -When the weather is bad and birds -are most vulnerable, you may be -reluctant to fill a feeder that is not in -a convenient spot near a door or an -accessible window. Also, pick a site -where discarded seed shells and bird -droppings won’t be a cleanup problem.</p> -<p class="bq">Put your feeder where the squirrels -can’t reach. Squirrels become a -problem when they take over a bird -feeder, scaring the birds away and -tossing seed all over. Squirrels have -been known to chew right through -plastic and wooden feeders.</p> -<p class="bq">If you’ve seen squirrels in your -neighborhood, it is safe to assume -they will visit your feeder. Think long -and hard before you hang anything -from a tree limb. Squirrels are -incredibly agile, and any feeder -hanging from a tree is likely to -become a squirrel feeder.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig1"> -<img src="images/p03a.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="354" /> -<p class="pcap"><i>Photo: Kevin Tennyson, USDOI</i></p> -</div> -<p class="bq">In the long run, a squirrel-proof -feeder or any feeder on a pole with a -baffle is the least aggravating solution. -The most effective squirrel-proof -feeder is the pole-mounted metal -“house” type.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_6">6</div> -<p class="bq">If you must hang a feeder, select a -tube protected with metal mesh. -Most plastic “squirrel-proof” feeders, -despite manufacturers’ claims, may -eventually succumb to the squirrels. -Any wood or plastic feeder can be -effective when mounted on a pole -with a plastic or metal baffle, if the -pole is at least 10 feet or more from a -tree limb or trunk (squirrels can -jump great distances).</p> -<h2 id="c5"><span class="small"><i>Durability</i></span></h2> -<p class="bq">Bird feeders are made from a variety -of materials. You can buy disposable -plastic bag feeders; feeders made -of cloth, nylon, vinyl and metal -netting; clear, lexan, colored and -PVC plastic tubes; ceramic and terra -cotta; redwood, western cedar, -birch, pine and plywood; sheet metal -and aluminized steel; glass tubes -and bottles.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p03c.jpg" alt="Terra Cotta feeder" width="300" height="307" /> -</div> -<p class="bq">How long a feeder lasts depends on -how well you maintain it, the effects -of weather, and whether squirrels can -get to it. Water can get into any -feeder regardless of how carefully -you protect it. Cloth, vinyl, nylon and -metal netting feeders are -inexpensive, but they do not protect -your seed from spoiling in damp or -wet weather. Improve them by -adding a plastic dome.</p> -<p class="bq">Most wood, plastic, ceramic and solid -metal feeders keep seed dry, but -water can get into the feeding -portals. Look for feeders with -drainage holes in the bottoms of both -the feeder hopper and the seed tray.</p> -<p class="bq">Even bowl-type feeders and trays -with drainage holes will clog with -seed and bird droppings that can mix -with rainwater and be unhealthy for -any animal. Look for shallow plate-like -seed trays to catch dropped -seeds while allowing spent seed shells -to blow away.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_7">7</div> -<p class="bq">When you feed birds, expect bird -droppings and a leftover food mess. -While you do not have to wash the -feeder daily, you should clean it at -least every few weeks. Diseases like -salmonella can grow in moldy, wet -seed and bird droppings in your -feeder tray and on the ground below. -Move your feeder a few feet each -season to give the ground underneath -time to assimilate the seed debris and -bird droppings.</p> -<p class="bq">The maintenance required to keep -your feeder clean varies according to -the type of feeder. A thistle feeder for -goldfinches should be cleaned about -once a month depending on how -often it rains. Feeding hummingbirds -requires cleaning at the very least -weekly, but preferably two or three -times a week. Sunflower and suet -feeders need to be cleaned only once -a month.</p> -<p class="bq">Plastic, ceramic and glass feeders are -easy to clean. Wash them in a bucket -of hot, soapy water fortified with a -capful or two of chlorine bleach. -Use the same regimen with wood -feeders, but substitute another -disinfectant for the bleach so your -wood won’t fade.</p> -<h2 id="c6"><span class="small"><i>Food Capacity</i></span></h2> -<p class="bq">The ideal feeder capacity varies with -your situation, and the types of birds -you want to attract. If you feed -hummingbirds, big feeders are not -always better. One hummingbird -will drink about twice its body -weight (less than an ounce) a day. -Early in the season, hummers are -territorial and won’t share a feeder. A -sixteen-ounce feeder can be wasteful, -or even lethal, because artificial -nectar (sugar water) can ferment in -the hot summer sun. A two-ounce -feeder is more than enough for one -hummer. Increase the size of your -feeder depending on your location -and how many hummers you see in -your yard.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_8">8</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p04.jpg" alt="Winter feeding" width="800" height="427" /> -</div> -<p class="bq">If you opt for a large-volume seed -feeder, protect it from the weather -and keep it clean. If after months of -use, the birds suddenly abandon your -feeder full of seed, it’s time for a -cleaning.</p> -<h3 id="c7">How Many Birds</h3> -<p class="bq">If too many birds at your feeder -become a problem, you can control -their numbers by putting out smaller -amounts of seed, or by using -specialty seeds or restrictive feeders -that will attract only certain species. -If you fill your feeder only when it’s -empty, the birds will look for food -elsewhere.</p> -<p class="bq">You can encourage small birds and -discourage large birds with feeders -that restrict access. Wood feeders -with vertical bars and feeders -covered with wire mesh frustrate -larger birds.</p> -<p class="bq">The most non-selective feeders are -the tray, platform or house feeders -because they allow easy access by -all birds.</p> -<p class="bq">Tube feeders without trays also -restrict access to only small birds. -Remove the perches, and you’ve -further restricted the feeder to only -those birds that can easily cling—finches, -chickadees, titmice and -woodpeckers.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_9">9</div> -<p class="bq">If starlings are a problem at your -suet feeder, discourage them by using -a suet feeder with access only from -the bottom. Starlings are reluctant -to perch upside down. Chickadees -and woodpeckers don’t find that a -problem.</p> -<p class="bq">You can virtually eliminate visits by -birds you would rather not see by -offering seeds they won’t eat. If you -use more than one type of seed, put -them in separate feeders. This will -reduce wasted seeds, as birds will -toss unwanted seeds out of a feeder -to get to their favorites.</p> -<p class="bq">Watch a feeder filled with a seed mix -and you’ll see the birds methodically -drop or kick out most of the seeds to -get to their favorite—sunflower.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p05.jpg" alt="Seed mixtures" width="800" height="545" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_10">10</div> -<p class="bq">Many birds prefer sunflower. Some -prefer millet. A few prefer peanuts. -Sparrows, blackbirds, doves and -juncos will eat the other grains used -in pre-made mixes: corn, milo, red -millet, oats, wheat and canary seed. -Birds will also kick out artificial -“berry” pellets, processed seed -flavored and colored to look like -real fruit.</p> -<p class="bq">Black oil sunflower is the hands-down -favorite of all the birds that visit -tube and house feeders. Birds who -visit platform feeders (doves and -sparrows) favor white proso millet. -Ducks, geese and quail will eat corn. -Many cereal grains (corn, milo, -oats, canary, wheat, rape, flax and -buckwheat) in mixed bird seeds are -NOT favorites of birds that visit -tube feeders.</p> -<p class="bq">The most effective way to attract the -largest variety of birds to your yard -is to put out separate feeders for -each food:</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">a starling-resistant suet feeder</p> -<p class="t0">a house feeder for sunflower</p> -<p class="t0">a bluebird feeder</p> -<p class="t0">a wire mesh cage feeder for peanut</p> -<p class="t0">a nectar feeder</p> -<p class="t0">a tube feeder for thistle</p> -<p class="t0">a stationary or tray fruit feeder</p> -<p class="t0">a house or platform feeder for millet</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_11">11</div> -<div class="img" id="fig2"> -<img src="images/p06.jpg" alt="" width="715" height="800" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="ss">Suet Feeder</span></p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig3"> -<img src="images/p06a.jpg" alt="" width="727" height="800" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="ss">Thistle Feeder</span></p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_12">12</div> -<div class="img" id="fig4"> -<img src="images/p06b.jpg" alt="" width="696" height="800" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="ss">Feeding Tray</span></p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig5"> -<img src="images/p06d.jpg" alt="" width="721" height="800" /> -<p class="pcap"><span class="ss">Nut Feeder</span></p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_13">13</div> -<h3 id="c8">Birds Attracted by Various Feeders and Foods</h3> -<dl class="undent"><dt><i>Tube Feeder with Black Oil Sunflower</i></dt> -<dd>goldfinches</dd> -<dd>chickadees</dd> -<dd>woodpeckers</dd> -<dd>nuthatches</dd> -<dd>titmice</dd> -<dd>redpolls</dd> -<dd>pine siskins</dd> -<dt><i>... Adding a Tray to the Tube Feeder Will Also Attract</i></dt> -<dd>cardinals</dd> -<dd>jays</dd> -<dd>crossbills</dd> -<dd>purple finches</dd> -<dd>house finches</dd> -<dd>white-throated sparrows</dd> -<dd>white-crowned sparrows</dd> -<dt><i>Tray or Platform Feeder—with Millet</i></dt> -<dd>doves</dd> -<dd>house sparrows</dd> -<dd>blackbirds</dd> -<dd>juncos</dd> -<dd>cowbirds</dd> -<dd>towhees</dd> -<dd>white-throated sparrows</dd> -<dd>tree sparrows</dd> -<dd>white-crowned sparrows</dd> -<dd>chipping sparrows</dd> -<dt><i>Tray or Platform Feeder—with Corn</i></dt> -<dd>starlings</dd> -<dd>house sparrows</dd> -<dd>grackles</dd> -<dd>jays</dd> -<dd>juncos</dd> -<dd>bobwhite quail</dd> -<dd>doves</dd> -<dd>ring-necked pheasants</dd> -<dd>white-throated sparrows</dd> -<dt><i>Platform Feeder or Tube Feeder and Tray—with Peanuts</i></dt> -<dd>cardinals</dd> -<dd>grackles</dd> -<dd>titmice</dd> -<dd>starlings</dd> -<dd>jays</dd> -<dt><i>Niger Thistle Feeder with Tray</i></dt> -<dd>goldfinches</dd> -<dd>house finches</dd> -<dd>purple finches</dd> -<dd>redpolls</dd> -<dd>pine siskins</dd> -<dd>doves</dd> -<dd>chickadees</dd> -<dd>song sparrows</dd> -<dd>dark-eyed juncos</dd> -<dd>white-throated sparrows</dd> -<dt><i>Nectar Feeder</i></dt> -<dd>hummingbirds</dd> -<dd>orioles</dd> -<dd>cardinals</dd> -<dd>tanagers</dd> -<dd>woodpeckers</dd> -<dd>finches</dd> -<dd>thrushes</dd> -<dt><i>Fruit</i></dt> -<dd>orioles</dd> -<dd>tanagers</dd> -<dd>mockingbirds</dd> -<dd>bluebirds</dd> -<dd>thrashers</dd> -<dd>cardinals</dd> -<dd>woodpeckers</dd> -<dd>jays</dd> -<dd>starlings</dd> -<dd>thrushes</dd> -<dd>cedar waxwings</dd> -<dd>yellow-breasted chats</dd> -<dt><i>Hanging Suet Feeder</i></dt> -<dd>woodpeckers</dd> -<dd>wrens</dd> -<dd>chickadees</dd> -<dd>nuthatches</dd> -<dd>kinglets</dd> -<dd>thrashers</dd> -<dd>creepers</dd> -<dd>cardinals</dd> -<dd>starlings</dd> -<dt><i>Peanut Butter Suet</i></dt> -<dd>woodpeckers</dd> -<dd>goldfinches</dd> -<dd>juncos</dd> -<dd>cardinals</dd> -<dd>thrushes</dd> -<dd>jays</dd> -<dd>kinglets</dd> -<dd>bluebirds</dd> -<dd>wrens</dd> -<dd>starlings</dd> -<dt><i>Hanging Peanut Feeder</i></dt> -<dd>woodpeckers</dd> -<dd>chickadees</dd> -<dd>titmice</dd></dl> -<h3 id="c9">Uninvited Guests at the Birdfeeder</h3> -<p class="bq">Once you get your bird feeding -station up and running, you may run -into problems with two kinds of -uninvited guests—those interested in -the seeds (squirrels and chipmunks, -rats and mice, and starlings and -house sparrows), and those -interested in eating a bird for dinner -(cats and hawks).</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p07.jpg" alt="Squirrel-resistant feeder" width="800" height="542" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_15">15</div> -<p class="bq">When a squirrel is at the feeder, -you’re not likely to see birds. -Squirrels will scare off the birds -while they eat the seed and -sometimes they will eat the feeder -too. The simplest solution is a -squirrel-proof feeder or pole.</p> -<p class="bq">Starlings and house sparrows are not -native to North America and are -aggressive towards other species. -Choose your feeder and seed to -exclude these species if possible.</p> -<p class="bq">Chipmunks, rats and mice can also -become a problem where there is -seed spillage under the feeder. -Don’t use mixed bird seed, and if -you don’t have a squirrel problem, -add a feeder tray.</p> -<p class="bq">Feral cats and your neighbor’s tabby -are a serious threat to many birds. -Keep feeders away from brushpiles -and shrubbery, as this offers cats the -necessary cover to surprise birds.</p> -<p class="bq">If there are no cats in your -neighborhood and you find a pile of -feathers near your feeder, look for a -full-bellied hawk perching on a tree -nearby. Don’t put out poisons or try -to trap hawks though, as this is -against state and federal law.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_16">16</div> -<h3 id="c10">Questions about Feeding Wild Birds</h3> -<h4><i>When is the best time to start?</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Usually, whenever the weather is -severe, birds will appreciate a -reliable supplemental food source. In -northern areas, start before the onset -of cold weather so birds have time to -find the feeder.</p> -<h4><i>When’s the best time to stop?</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Although you can feed birds year-round, -especially with fruit and -nectar, you can stop feeding seeds -once a reliable supply of insects is -available in the spring.</p> -<h4><i>Is it best to stop feeding hummingbirds after Labor Day?</i></h4> -<p class="bq">There is no evidence that feeding -hummingbirds after Labor Day will -keep them from migrating. In fact, -it may help a weakened straggler -refuel for the long haul. Leave your -nectar feeders out until the birds -stop coming.</p> -<h4><i>How long does it take for birds to find a feeder?</i></h4> -<p class="bq">It may take more time for birds to -find window feeders than hanging or -pole-mounted feeders. You may want -to wrap aluminum foil around the top -of the feeder hanger. Sometimes all it -takes is the reflection of light on the -foil to catch their attention.</p> -<h4><i>My feeder is full of seeds. I haven’t seen a bird in months. Am I doing something wrong?</i></h4> -<p class="bq">When birds desert your feeder, it -may be simply that a lot of natural -food is available nearby. Or -something may be wrong, such as -spoiled seeds or a contaminated -feeder. Throw the seeds away and -wash the feeder. Look at where your -feeder is placed. Be sure it’s not -vulnerable to predators. At the same -time, make sure it is not in an open -area, away from the cover in which -birds usually travel.</p> -<h4><i>Will birds’ feet stick to metal feeders and perches in the wet winter weather?</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Birds don’t have sweat glands in their -feet, so they won’t freeze onto metal -feeders. There’s no need to cover -any metal feeders parts with plastic -or wood to protect birds’ feet, -tongues or eyes.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_17">17</div> -<h4><i>Do wild birds need grit?</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Birds have no teeth to grind their -food. The dirt, sand, pebbles and -grit they eat sit in their crop and -help grind up their food. Adding -grit to your feeder is helpful, -particularly in the winter and spring. -Crushed eggshells do the same thing, -and in the spring have an added -benefit: they provide birds with -extra calcium for producing eggs of -their own.</p> -<h4><i>Can birds choke on peanut butter?</i></h4> -<p class="bq">There is no evidence that birds can -choke on peanut butter. However, -birds have no salivary glands. You -can make it easier on them by mixing -peanut butter with lard, cornmeal or -grit. Your birds will appreciate -drinking water too, from a bird bath -or trough.</p> -<h4><i>Won’t suet go bad in the summer?</i></h4> -<p class="bq">In the winter, raw beef fat from the -local butcher is all you need for your -suet feeder. When temperatures rise, -raw fat can melt and get rancid. It’s -safer to use commercially rendered -suet cakes in the spring and summer -months. Rendering (boiling) the fat -kills bacteria.</p> -<h4><i>What is hummingbird nectar? Do hummers need nectar fortified with vitamins and minerals?</i></h4> -<p class="bq">You can make your own hummingbird -nectar by adding ¼ cup of sugar to a -cup of boiling water. Remember, -sugar water will ferment when left in -the hot sun, turning nectar deadly. -Do not put out a nectar feeder if you -are not willing to clean it at least -weekly, preferably twice a week.</p> -<p class="bq">Hummers eat insects for their -protein. There is no evidence that -these tiny birds need vitamin and -mineral supplements. There is also -no evidence that adding red food -coloring to nectar will harm the -birds, but it probably is not necessary -to attract them. Just put your -feeder near red flowers or buy a red -hummingbird feeder.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p09.jpg" alt="Hummingbird feeder" width="300" height="456" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_18">18</div> -<h4><i>How can I avoid bees at my hummingbird feeder?</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Bees will inevitably visit your -hummingbird feeder, especially in -hot weather. Little plastic bee guards -may help keep them from getting -nectar but it won’t stop them from -trying. Don’t take the chance of -contaminating your nectar by -putting vegetable oil around the -feeding portals. One solution is to -add a few small feeders away from -where people are likely to be -bothered by bees.</p> -<h4><i>How close to my window can I put a feeder?</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Birds will come right to your window. -Sometimes it takes a while for them -to overcome their initial reluctance, -so be patient. Don’t worry that a -feeder on the window will cause -birds to fly into the window. Birds fly -into the window because they see -the reflection of the woods. Window -feeders and decals help break up -the reflection.</p> -<h4><i>Is cracked corn coated with a red dye safe to use?</i></h4> -<p class="bq">No. The red or pink coating is -capstan, a fungicide used on seeds -meant for planting. If you buy a bag -of cracked corn or other seed treated -with capstan, return it to the store. -It can kill horses, other mammals -and wild birds.</p> -<h4><i>I bought a bag of sunflower seeds early in the spring. Over the summer I first noticed worms, then moths. What can I do to keep the bugs out?</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Moths lay their eggs in sunflower -seeds. The eggs lay dormant as long -as the seeds are stored in a cool dry -place. In the summer, seeds get hot -and the eggs hatch. The best way -to avoid this problem is to buy seeds -in smaller quantities, or store your -seeds in a cool, dry place. It also -helps to know where your retailer -stores the seed. An air-conditioned -storage unit is the better choice.</p> -<p class="bq">Insects also lay their eggs in burlap -bags. Don’t buy seeds in burlap bags. -Don’t buy seed in paper and plastic -bags with patched holes. That may be -a sign of insect or rodent infestation.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_19">19</div> -<h3>Homes for Birds</h3> -<h4><i>Birds You Can Attract to Nest Boxes</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Many of the birds that visit feeders -and baths may stay and nest in -nearby trees. Most of them, including -cardinals, doves and orioles, don’t -nest in boxes. You can still help -them by considering their food and -shelter requirements in your -landscape plans.</p> -<p class="bq">More than two dozen North -American birds nest in bird houses. -The following descriptions will help -you determine which birds might -visit your neighborhood.</p> -<h4><i>Bluebirds</i></h4> -<p class="bq">If you put up a bluebird house near -an old field, orchard, park, cemetery -or golf course, you might have a -chance of attracting a pair of -bluebirds. They prefer nest boxes on -a tree stump or wooden fence post -between three and five feet high. -Bluebirds also nest in abandoned -woodpecker nest holes.</p> -<p class="bq">The most important measurement is -the hole diameter. An inch and a half -is small enough to deter starlings, -which, along with house sparrows, -have been known to kill bluebirds, as -well as adults sitting on the nest. -Bluebirds have problems with other -animals too. Discourage cats, snakes, -raccoons and chipmunks by mounting -the house on a metal pole, or use a -metal predator guard on a wood post.</p> -<h4><i>American Robins</i></h4> -<p class="bq">The robin is our largest thrush. -They prefer to build their nest in the -crotch of a tree. If you don’t have an -appropriate tree, you can offer a -nesting platform. Pick a spot six -feet or higher up on a shaded tree -trunk or under the overhang of a -shed or porch. Creating a “mud -puddle” nearby offers further -enticement, as robins use mud to hold -their nests together.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_20">20</div> -<h4><i>Chickadees, Nuthatches and Titmice</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Chickadees, titmice and nuthatches -share the same food, feeders, and -habitat. If you put a properly -designed nest box in a wooded yard, -at least one of these species might -check it out.</p> -<p class="bq">Put chickadee houses at eye level. -Hang them from limbs or secure -them to tree trunks. The entrance -hole should be 1⅛ inches to attract -chickadees, yet exclude house -sparrows. Anchor houses for -nuthatches on tree trunks five to six -feet off the ground.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p10.jpg" alt="Titmouse house" width="600" height="720" /> -</div> -<h4><i>Brown Creepers and Prothonotary Warblers</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Look for brown creepers to nest -behind the curved bark of tree -trunks. In heavily wooded yards, slab -bark houses appeal to creepers. -Prothonotary warblers also prefer -slab bark houses, or bluebird boxes -attached to a tree trunk, but theirs -must be placed over water (lakes, -rivers or swamps) with a good canopy -of trees overhead.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_21">21</div> -<h4><i>Wrens</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Wrens don’t seem to be very picky -about where they nest. Try nest -boxes with a 1 inch × 2 inch horizontal -slot (1½ inch × 2½ inch for the larger -Carolina wrens) instead of a circle. -These are easier for the wrens to use. -However, the larger the opening, the -more likely it is house sparrows will -occupy the box.</p> -<p class="bq">Wrens are known for filling a nest -cavity with twigs, regardless of -whether they use the nest to raise -their young. Since male house wrens -build several nests for the female to -choose from, hang several nest -boxes at eye level on partly sunlit -tree limbs. Wrens are sociable and -will accept nest boxes quite close to -your house.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p11.jpg" alt="Inside of nesting cavity" width="604" height="800" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_22">22</div> -<h4><i>Tree and Violet-green Swallows</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Tree swallows prefer nest boxes -attached to dead trees. Space the -boxes about seven feet apart for -these white-bellied birds with -iridescent blue-green backs and -wings. The ideal setting for these -insect-eaters is on the edge of a large -field near a lake, pond or river.</p> -<p class="bq">Violet-green swallows nest in forested -mountains of the West; boxes -placed on large trees in a semi-open -woodland will attract them.</p> -<h4><i>Barn Swallows and Phoebes</i></h4> -<p class="bq">If you have the right habitat, like an -open barn or old shed, barn swallows -and phoebes are easy to attract. -It’s their nesting behavior, not their -plumage or song, that catches your -attention. However, these birds tend -to nest where you would rather not -have them: on a ledge right over -your front door. To avoid a mess by -your door, offer the birds a nesting -shelf nearby where you’d rather -have them.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p11a.jpg" alt="Nesting ledge" width="653" height="600" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_23">23</div> -<h4><i>Purple Martins</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Many people want martins in their -yards because, it’s been said, these -birds eat 2,000 mosquitoes a day. -While it’s true that they eat flying -insects, don’t expect purple martins -to eliminate mosquitoes in your yard -completely. Martins prefer -dragonflies, which prey on mosquito -larvae. If you want to help rid your -yard of mosquitoes, put up a bat -roosting box. One bat can eat -thousands of mosquitoes a night.</p> -<p class="bq">Martins are entertaining creatures, -however, and you’ll enjoy watching -their antics in your backyard. You -have the best chance of attracting -martins if you put a house on the -edge of a pond or river, surrounded -by a field or lawn. Martins need -a radius of about 40 feet of -unobstructed flying space around -their houses. A telephone wire -nearby gives them a place to perch -in sociable groups.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p12.jpg" alt="Ceramic house" width="320" height="300" /> -</div> -<p class="bq">Martins nest in groups, so you’ll need -a house with a minimum of four large -rooms—6 or more inches on all -sides, with a 2½ inch entrance hole -about 1½ inches above the floor. -Ventilation and drainage are critical -factors in martin house design. -Porches, railings, porch dividers -and supplemental roof perches, like -a TV antenna, make any house -more appealing.</p> -<p class="bq">You can also make houses from -gourds by fashioning an entrance -hole and small holes in the bottom -for drainage. If you use gourds, it’s -not necessary to add railings and -perches. Adult martins will perch on -the wire used to hang the houses. -Before you select a house, think -about what kind of pole you’re going -to put it on. Martins occupy a house -ten to twenty feet off the ground. -Some poles are less cumbersome -than others.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_24">24</div> -<p class="bq">Gourd houses are the easiest to set -up. String them from a wire between -two poles, from a sectional aluminum -pole, or on pulleys mounted to a -crossbar high up on a pole.</p> -<p class="bq">You can mount lightweight aluminum -houses for martins on telescoping -poles, providing easy access for -maintenance and inspection. Because -of their weight (more than 30 -pounds), wood houses should not be -mounted on telescoping poles. You’ll -have to use a sturdy metal or a wood -pole attached to a pivot post. The -problem with this lowering technique -is that you can’t tilt the house without -damaging the nests inside. If you put -your house on a shorter, fixed pole, -ten to twelve feet high, you can use a -ladder to inspect and maintain it.</p> -<h4><i>Flycatchers</i></h4> -<p class="bq">The great crested flycatcher and its -western cousin, the ash-throated -flycatcher, are common in wooded -suburbs and rural areas with -woodlots. Their natural nesting sites -are abandoned woodpecker holes. -Flycatchers may nest in a bird -house if it is placed about ten feet -up in a tree in an orchard or at the -edge of a field or stream. This is a -longshot, but well worth the effort if -you are successful.</p> -<h4><i>Woodpeckers</i></h4> -<p class="bq">You can attract all types of -woodpeckers with a suet feeder, but -only the flicker is likely to use a -bird house. They prefer a box with -roughened interior and a floor -covered with a two-inch layer of -wood chips or coarse sawdust. -Flickers are especially attracted to -nest boxes filled with sawdust, which -they “excavate” to suit themselves. -For best results, place the box -high up on a tree trunk, exposed to -direct sunlight.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_25">25</div> -<p class="bq">Try building a birdhouse for the -other species of woodpeckers -following the guidelines in this -booklet. You might be surprised!</p> -<h4><i>Owls</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Most owls seldom build their own -nests. Great horned and long-eared -owls prefer abandoned crow and -hawk nests. Other owls (barred, barn, -saw-whet, boreal and screech) nest in -tree cavities and bird houses.</p> -<p class="bq">Barn owls are best known for -selecting nesting sites near farms. -Where trees are sparse, these birds -will nest in church steeples, silos -and barns. If you live near a farm or -a golf course, try fastening a nest -box for owls about 15 feet up on a -tree trunk.</p> -<p class="bq">Screech owls prefer abandoned -woodpecker holes at the edge of a -field or neglected orchard. They will -readily take to boxes lined with an -inch or two of wood shavings. If you -clean the box out in late spring after -the young owls have fledged, you may -attract a second tenant—a kestrel. -Trees isolated from larger tracts of -woods have less chance of squirrels -taking over the box.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p13.jpg" alt="Owl house" width="800" height="567" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_26">26</div> -<h4>Selecting a House</h4> -<p class="bq">In the bird house business, there’s -no such thing as “one size fits all.” -Decide which bird you want to -attract, then get a house for that -particular bird. Look through any -book or catalog and you’ll see bird -houses of all sizes and shapes, -with perches and without, made of -materials you might not have -thought of: recycled paper, gourds, -plastic, rubber, pottery, metal and -concrete. The proper combination -of quality materials and design -makes a good birdhouse.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p13a.jpg" alt="Covered tray feeder" width="600" height="607" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c11">Materials</h3> -<p class="bq">Wood is just about the best building -material for any birdhouse. It’s -durable, has good insulating qualities -and breathes. Three-quarter-inch -thick bald cypress and red cedar are -recommended. Pine and exterior -grade plywood will do, but they are -not as durable.</p> -<p class="bq">It makes no difference whether the -wood is slab, rough-cut or finished, as -long as the inside has not been -treated with stains or preservatives. -Fumes from the chemicals could -harm the birds.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_27">27</div> -<p class="bq">There’s no need to paint cypress and -cedar, but pine and plywood houses -will last longer with a coat of water-based -exterior latex paint. White is -the color for purple martin houses. -Tan, gray or dull green works best -for the other cavity nesting species. -The dull, light colors reflect heat and -are less conspicuous to predators. -Don’t paint the inside of the box or -the entrance hole.</p> -<p class="bq">Regardless of which wood you select, -gluing all the joints before you nail -them will extend the life of your bird -house. Galvanized or brass shank -nails, hinges and screws resist -rusting and hold boxes together more -tightly as they age.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p14.jpg" alt="Suspended wooden nesting box" width="300" height="417" /> -</div> -<p class="bq">Resist the temptation to put a metal -roof on your bird house. Reflective -metal makes sense for martin houses -up on a sixteen-foot pole, but when -it’s tacked onto the roof of a wood -chickadee house, the shiny metal is -more likely to attract predators.</p> -<p class="bq">Natural gourds make very attractive -bird houses. They breathe, and -because they sway in the wind they -are less likely to be taken over by -house sparrows and starlings.</p> -<p class="bq">Grow your own gourds and you’ll -have dozens to choose from in the -years ahead. If you don’t have the -space to grow them, a coat of -polyurethane or exterior latex (on the -outside only) will add years to the one -you have.</p> -<p class="bq">Properly designed pottery, aluminum -(for purple martins only), concrete -and plastic houses are durable, but -don’t drop them.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_28">28</div> -<p class="bq">Be sure to provide ventilation, -drainage, and easy access for -maintenance and monitoring. -Concrete (or a mix of concrete and -sawdust) offers protection other -houses cannot: squirrels can’t chew -their way in.</p> -<h3 id="c12">Design</h3> -<p class="bq">How elaborate you make your bird -house depends on your own tastes. In -addition to where you place the box, -the most important considerations -are: box height, depth, floor -dimensions, diameter of entrance -hole and height of the hole above the -box floor.</p> -<p class="bq">Refer to the <a href="#Page_29">following chart</a> before -building your nest box, keeping in -mind that birds make their own -choices, without regard for charts. -So don’t be surprised if you find -tenants you never expected in a -house you intended for someone else.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p14a.jpg" alt="Squirrel on feeder" width="800" height="723" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_29">29</div> -<h3 id="c13">Nest Box Dimensions</h3> -<table class="center"> -<tr class="th"><th>Species </th><th>Box floor (inches) </th><th>Box height (inches) </th><th>Entrance height (inches) </th><th>Entrance (inches) </th><th>Placement diameter height (feet)</th></tr> -<tr><td class="l">American Robin<a class="fn" id="fr_1" href="#fn_1">[1]</a> </td><td class="c">7×8 </td><td class="c">8 </td><td class="c">—— </td><td class="c">——</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Eastern & Western Bluebirds </td><td class="c">5×5 </td><td class="c">8-12 </td><td class="c">6-10 </td><td class="c">1½ </td><td class="c">4-6</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Mountain Bluebird </td><td class="c">5×5 </td><td class="c">8-12 </td><td class="c">6-10 </td><td class="c">1½ </td><td class="c">4-6</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Chickadee </td><td class="c">4×4 </td><td class="c">8-10 </td><td class="c">6-8 </td><td class="c">1⅛ </td><td class="c">4-15</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Titmouse </td><td class="c">4×4 </td><td class="c">10-12 </td><td class="c">6-10 </td><td class="c">1¼ </td><td class="c">5-15</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Ash-throated Flycatcher </td><td class="c">6×6 </td><td class="c">8-12 </td><td class="c">6-10 </td><td class="c">1½ </td><td class="c">5-15</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Great Crested Flycatcher </td><td class="c">6×6 </td><td class="c">8-12 </td><td class="c">6-10 </td><td class="c">1¾ </td><td class="c">5-15</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Phoebe<a class="fn" href="#fn_1">[1]</a> </td><td class="c">6×6 </td><td class="c">6 </td><td class="c">—— </td><td class="c">—— </td><td class="c">8-12</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Brown-headed/Pygmy/<br />Red-breasted Nuthatch </td><td class="c">4×4 </td><td class="c">8-10 </td><td class="c">6-8 </td><td class="c">1¼ </td><td class="c">5-15</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">White-breasted Nuthatch </td><td class="c">4×4 </td><td class="c">8-10 </td><td class="c">6-8 </td><td class="c">1⅜ </td><td class="c">5-15</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Prothonotary Warbler </td><td class="c">5×5 </td><td class="c">6 </td><td class="c">4-5 </td><td class="c">1⅛ </td><td class="c">4-8</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Barn Swallow<a class="fn" href="#fn_1">[1]</a> </td><td class="c">6×6 </td><td class="c">6 </td><td class="c">—— </td><td class="c">—— </td><td class="c">8-12</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Purple Martin </td><td class="c">6×6 </td><td class="c">6 </td><td class="c">1-2 </td><td class="c">2¼ </td><td class="c">6-20</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Tree and Violet-Green Swallows </td><td class="c">5×5 </td><td class="c">6-8 </td><td class="c">4-6 </td><td class="c">1½ </td><td class="c">5-15</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Downy Woodpecker </td><td class="c">4×4 </td><td class="c">8-10 </td><td class="c">6-8 </td><td class="c">1¼ </td><td class="c">5-15</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Hairy Woodpecker </td><td class="c">6×6 </td><td class="c">12-15 </td><td class="c">9-12 </td><td class="c">1½ </td><td class="c">8-20</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Lewis’s Woodpecker </td><td class="c">7×7 </td><td class="c">16-18 </td><td class="c">14-16 </td><td class="c">2½ </td><td class="c">12-20</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Northern Flicker </td><td class="c">7×7 </td><td class="c">16-18 </td><td class="c">14-16 </td><td class="c">2½ </td><td class="c">6-20</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Pileated Woodpecker </td><td class="c">8×8 </td><td class="c">16-24 </td><td class="c">12-20 </td><td class="c">3×4 </td><td class="c">15-25</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Red-Headed Woodpecker </td><td class="c">6×6 </td><td class="c">12-15 </td><td class="c">9-12 </td><td class="c">2 </td><td class="c">10-20</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Yellow-bellied Sapsucker </td><td class="c">5×5 </td><td class="c">12-15 </td><td class="c">9-12 </td><td class="c">1½ </td><td class="c">10-20</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Bewick’s/House Wrens </td><td class="c">4×4 </td><td class="c">6-8 </td><td class="c">4-6 </td><td class="c">1¼ </td><td class="c">5-10</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Carolina Wren </td><td class="c">4×4 </td><td class="c">6-8 </td><td class="c">4-6 </td><td class="c">1½ </td><td class="c">5-10</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Barn Owl </td><td class="c">10×18 </td><td class="c">15-18 </td><td class="c">4 </td><td class="c">6 </td><td class="c">12-18</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Screech-Owl and Kestrel </td><td class="c">8×8 </td><td class="c">12-15 </td><td class="c">9-12 </td><td class="c">3 </td><td class="c">10-30</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Osprey </td><td class="c">48×48 </td><td class="c">platform</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Red-tailed Hawk/Great Horned Owl </td><td class="c">24×24 </td><td class="c">platform</td></tr> -<tr><td class="l">Wood Duck </td><td class="c">10×18 </td><td class="c">10-24 </td><td class="c">12-16 </td><td class="c">4 </td><td class="c">10-20</td></tr> -</table> -<div class="fnblock"><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_1" href="#fr_1">[1]</a><i>Use nesting shelf, platform with three sides and an open front</i> -</div> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_33">33</div> -<p class="bq">Now that you have the correct -dimensions for your bird house, -take a look at how to make it safe: -ventilation, drainage, susceptibility to -predators, and ease of maintenance.</p> -<h2 id="c14"><span class="small"><i>Ventilation</i></span></h2> -<p class="bq">You should provide air vents in bird -boxes. There are two ways to provide -ventilation: leave gaps between the -roof and sides of the box, or drill ¼ -inch holes just below the roof.</p> -<h2 id="c15"><span class="small"><i>Drainage</i></span></h2> -<p class="bq">Water becomes a problem when it sits -in the bottom of a bird house. A roof -with sufficient slope and overhang -offers some protection. Drilling the -entrance hole on an upward slant -may also help keep the water out. -Regardless of design, driving rain -will get in through the entrance hole. -You can assure proper drainage by -cutting away the corners of the box -floor and drilling ¼-inch holes. Nest -boxes will last longer if the floors are -recessed about ¼ inch.</p> -<h2 id="c16"><span class="small"><i>Entrance Hole</i></span></h2> -<p class="bq">Look for the entrance hole on the -front panel near the top. A rough -surface both inside and out makes it -easier for the adults to get into the -box and, when it’s time, for the -nestlings to climb out.</p> -<p class="bq">If your box is made of finished wood, -add a couple of grooves outside below -the hole. Open the front panel and -add grooves, cleats or wire mesh to -the inside. Never put up a bird house -with a perch below the entrance -hole. Perches offer starlings, house -sparrows and other predators a -convenient place to wait for lunch. -Don’t be tempted by duplexes or -houses that have more than one -entrance hole. Except for purple -martins, cavity-nesting birds prefer -not to share a house. While these -condos look great in your yard, -starlings and house sparrows are -inclined to use them.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_34">34</div> -<h2 id="c17"><span class="small"><i>Accessibility</i></span></h2> -<p class="bq">Bird houses should be easily -accessible so you can see how your -birds are doing and clean out the -house. Monitor your bird houses -every week and evict unwanted -creatures such as house sparrows -or starlings.</p> -<p class="bq">Be careful when you inspect your -bird boxes—you may find something -other than a bird inside. Don’t be -surprised to see squirrels, mice, -snakes or insects. Look for fleas, -flies, mites, larvae and lice in the -bottom of the box. If you find insects -and parasites, your first reaction may -be to grab the nearest can of insect -spray. If you do, use only insecticides -known to be safe around birds: -1 percent rotenone powder or -pyrethrin spray. If wasps are a -problem, coat the inside top of the -box with bar soap.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p17.jpg" alt="Squirrel in nest box" width="600" height="532" /> -</div> -<p class="bq">Here’s how to check your nest boxes -for unwanted visitors:</p> -<p class="bq">Watch the nest for 20-30 minutes. If -you don’t see or hear any birds near -the box, go over and tap on the box. -If you hear bird sounds, open the -top and take a quick peek inside. If -everything is all right, close the box. -If you see problems (parasites or -predators), remove them and close -the box.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_35">35</div> -<p class="bq">A bird house with easy access makes -the job simple. Most bird houses can -be opened from the top, the side, the -front or the bottom. Boxes that open -from the top and the front provide -the easiest access. Opening the box -from the top is less likely to disturb -nesting birds. It’s impossible to open -a box from the bottom without the -nest falling out. While side- and -front-opening boxes are convenient -for cleaning and monitoring, they -have one drawback: the nestlings -may jump out. If this happens, don’t -panic. Pick them up and put them -back in the nest. Don’t worry that the -adults will reject the nestlings if you -handle them. That’s a myth; most -birds have a terrible sense of smell.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p18.jpg" alt="Cleaning house" width="300" height="420" /> -</div> -<p class="bq">If you clean out your nest boxes after -each brood has fledged, several pairs -may use the nest throughout the -summer. Some cavity-nesting birds -will not nest again in a box full of old -nesting material.</p> -<p class="bq">In the fall, after you’ve cleaned out -your nest box for the last time, you -can put it in storage or leave it out. -Gourds and pottery last longer if -you take them in for the winter. -You can leave your purple martin -houses up, but plug the entrance -holes to discourage starlings and -house sparrows.</p> -<p class="bq">Leaving your wood and concrete -houses out provides shelter for birds, -flying squirrels and other animals -during winter. Each spring, -thoroughly clean all houses left out -for the winter.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_36">36</div> -<h2 id="c18"><span class="small"><i>Limiting Predator Access</i></span></h2> -<p class="bq">Proper box depth, and roof and -entrance hole design will help -reduce access by predators, such as -raccoons, cats, opossums, and -squirrels. Sometimes all it takes is an -angled roof with a three-inch -overhang to discourage small -mammals.</p> -<p class="bq">The entrance hole is the only thing -between a predator and a bird house -full of nestlings. By itself, the ¾-inch -wall is not wide enough to keep out -the arm of a raccoon or house cat. -Add a predator guard (a ¾-inch thick -rectangular wood block with an -entrance hole cut in it) to thicken the -wall and you’ll discourage sparrows, -starlings, and cats.</p> -<h3 id="c19">Bird House Placement</h3> -<p class="bq">Where you put your bird house is as -important as its design and -construction. Cavity-nesting birds are -very particular about where they live. -If you don’t have the right habitat, -the birds are not likely to find the -house. You can modify your land to -attract the birds you want to see by -putting out a bird bath, planting -fruit-bearing shrubs, including more -trees or installing a pond with a -waterfall.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p18a.jpg" alt="Variety of bird feeders" width="581" height="700" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_37">37</div> -<p class="bq">Once you’ve matched up the right -bird house with the appropriate -habitat, you have to know where to -put the nest box. Should you hang it -from a tree limb, nail it to a fence or -mount it on a pole or a tree trunk?</p> -<p class="bq">Most species require a fairly narrow -range of heights for nest boxes. After -checking the table in this brochure, -pick a height that’s convenient for -you. After all, you will want to watch -what goes on and keep the box clean. -If you want to watch chickadees from -your second floor window or deck, -fifteen feet is reasonable but it’s a lot -easier to clean out a box at eye level.</p> -<p class="bq">Here are some tips on where to put -bird houses:</p> -<p class="bq">don’t put bird houses near bird -feeders.</p> -<p class="bq">houses mounted on metal poles are -less vulnerable to predators than -houses nailed to tree trunks or hung -from tree limbs.</p> -<p class="bq">use no more than four small nest -boxes or one large box per acre for -any one species.</p> -<p class="bq">put about 100 yards between bluebird -boxes and 75 yards between swallow -boxes. (If you have both species, pair -the houses with one bluebird box 25 -feet from a swallow box.)</p> -<p class="bq">don’t put more than one box in a tree -unless the tree is extremely large or -the boxes are for different species.</p> -<p class="bq">if you have very hot summers, face -the entrance holes of your boxes -north or east to avoid overheating -the box.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_38">38</div> -<h3 id="c20">Protection from Predators</h3> -<h4><i>Cats</i></h4> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p19.jpg" alt="Cat" width="300" height="385" /> -</div> -<p class="bq">Nesting birds are extremely -vulnerable to cats, as are fledglings -and birds roosting for the night. -Bell collars on cats offer birds little -protection. Nailing a sheet metal -guard or cone to a tree trunk is -unsightly, but may deter less agile -felines. Houses mounted on metal -poles are the most difficult for -predators to reach, especially if you -smear the poles with a petroleum -jelly and hot pepper mixture. The -best deterrent is for owners to keep -their cats inside whenever possible.</p> -<h4><i>Dogs</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Pet dogs are a hazard to nestlings -in the spring and summer. Don’t -let your dog run loose during -nesting time.</p> -<h4><i>Squirrels</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Red squirrels, and sometimes gray -squirrels, can become a serious -menace to bird houses and the birds -themselves. If you find your nest hole -enlarged, chances are a red squirrel -is the culprit. Once inside the box, -squirrels make a meal of the eggs -and young. Adding a predator guard -made of sheet metal to the entrance -hole is usually enough to keep -squirrels out.</p> -<h4><i>Raccoons and Opossums</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Raccoons and opossums will stick -their arms inside nest boxes and try -to pull out the adult, young, and -eggs. Adding a ¾-inch thick predator -guard to the bird house or an -inverted cone to its pole support is a -simple solution.</p> -<h4><i>Snakes</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Snakes play an important part in the -balance of nature. If you find one in -your bird house, don’t kill it. Snake-proof -your house by putting it on a -metal pole lathered with petroleum -jelly or red cayenne pepper.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_39">39</div> -<h4><i>House Sparrows and Starlings</i></h4> -<p class="bq">If you don’t discourage them, these -two nuisance species introduced -from Europe will harass or kill -cavity-nesting birds. Since house -sparrows and starlings are not -protected by law, you may destroy -their nests. But remember, other -birds are protected by law.</p> -<h4><i>House Wrens</i></h4> -<p class="bq">House wrens sometimes interfere -with the nesting success of other -birds by puncturing their eggs. -But, unlike the house sparrow and -starling, these birds are native to -North America and are protected by -law. Don’t be tempted to intervene -when wrens appear at your -backyard birdhouse.</p> -<h4><i>Insects</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Many insects lay their eggs and -pupate in bird houses. Inspect your -bird houses for signs of gypsy moths, -blow flies, wasps, ants, gnats and -bees. Keep bees and wasps from -attaching their nests by coating the -inside of the roof with bar soap. In -areas where gypsy moths abound, -avoid placing boxes in oak trees, -which the gypsy moths favor.</p> -<p class="bq">Pyrethrin and rotenone insecticides -are recommended for killing fly -larvae, bird lice and mites after birds -have finished nesting for the season.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_40">40</div> -<h3 id="c21">Attracting Birds</h3> -<p class="bq">As people learn to enjoy the beauty -of birds around their home, they may -wish to improve the “habitat” in their -yard so that more birds will visit -their property. You can attract birds -by placing bird feeders, nest boxes -and bird baths in your yard, and by -planting a variety of trees, shrubs, -and flowers. These can provide good -nesting sites, winter shelter, places -to hide from predators and natural -food supplies that are available -year-round.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p20.jpg" alt="Bird bath" width="700" height="534" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c22">Landscaping for Birds</h3> -<p class="bq">The most surefire way to attract -birds to your backyard is to make -certain the appropriate habitat is -available to them. You may be lucky -and already have a good supply of -food, shelter, and water available for -our feathered friends. In that case, -you have to do little more than stand -back and watch.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_41">41</div> -<p class="bq">However, for most backyards, bird -habitat must be created. It’s called -“landscaping for birds” and it can be -as simple or extravagant as you wish. -Whatever the approach, anyone who -has ever tried this type of -landscaping comes away with a real -love for it after their first sparkling -hummingbirds hover at the coral -bells, or the perky catbird comes -down for a drink of water from the -birdbath, or the sleek waxwings -gather en masse to sample -bittersweet berries.</p> -<h3 id="c23">Benefits of Landscaping for Birds</h3> -<p class="bq">You can derive many benefits from -landscaping to attract birds to your -yard:</p> -<h4><i>Increased Wildlife Populations</i></h4> -<p class="bq">You can probably double the number -of bird species using your property -with a good landscaping plan.</p> -<h4><i>Energy Conservation</i></h4> -<p class="bq">By carefully arranging your conifer -and hardwood trees, you can lower -winter heating and summer cooling -bills for your house.</p> -<h4><i>Soil Conservation</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Certain landscape plants can prevent -soil erosion.</p> -<h4><i>Natural Beauty</i></h4> -<p class="bq">A good landscaping plan contributes -to a beautiful, natural setting around -your home that is pleasing to people -as well as birds.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p21.jpg" alt="Bath in garden setting" width="700" height="591" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_42">42</div> -<h4><i>Wildlife Photography</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Wildlife photography is a wonderful -hobby for people of all ages.</p> -<h4><i>Birdwatching</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Try keeping a list of all the birds you -see in your yard or from your yard. -Some people have counted nearly 200 -species of birds in their yard!</p> -<h4><i>Natural Insect Control</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Birds such as tree swallows, house -wrens, brown thrashers and orioles -eat a variety of insects.</p> -<h4><i>Food Production</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Some plants that attract wildlife are -also appealing to humans. People and -wildlife can share cherries, -chokecherries, strawberries, and -crabapples.</p> -<h4><i>Property Value</i></h4> -<p class="bq">A good landscaping plan can greatly -increase the value of your property -by adding natural beauty and an -abundance of wildlife.</p> -<h4><i>Habitat for Kids</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Some of the best wildlife habitats are -the best habitats for young people to -discover the wonders of nature. A -backyard bird habitat can stimulate -young people to develop a lifelong -interest in wildlife and conservation.</p> -<h3>Basics of Landscaping for Birds</h3> -<p class="bq">Landscaping for birds involves nine -basic principles:</p> -<h4><i>Food</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Every bird species has its own unique -food requirements that may change -as the seasons change. Learn the -food habits of the birds you wish to -attract. Then plant the appropriate -trees, shrubs, and flowers to provide -the fruits, berries, seeds, acorns, nuts -and nectar.</p> -<h4><i>Water</i></h4> -<p class="bq">You may be able to double the -number of bird species in your yard -by providing a source of water. A frog -pond, water garden, or bird bath will -get lots of bird use, especially if the -water is dripping, splashing or -moving.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_43">43</div> -<h4><i>Shelter</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Birds need places where they can -hide from predators and escape from -severe weather. Trees (including dead -ones), shrubs, tall grass and bird -houses provide excellent shelter.</p> -<h4><i>Diversity</i></h4> -<p class="bq">The best landscaping plan is one -that includes a variety of native -plants. This helps attract the most -bird species.</p> -<h4><i>Four Seasons</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Give birds food and shelter -throughout the year by planting a -variety of trees, shrubs and flowers -that provide year-round benefits.</p> -<h4><i>Arrangement</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Properly arrange the different -habitat components in your yard. -Consider the effects of prevailing -winds (and snow drifting) so your -yard will be protected from harsh -winter weather.</p> -<h4><i>Protection</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Birds should be protected from -unnecessary mortality. When -choosing the placement of bird -feeders and nest boxes, consider their -accessibility to predators. Picture -windows can also be dangerous for -birds, who fly directly at windows -when they see the reflection of trees -and shrubs. A network of parallel, -vertical strings spaced 4 inches -apart can be placed on the outside of -windows to prevent this problem. Be -cautious about the kinds of herbicides -and pesticides used in your yard. -Apply them only when necessary -and strictly according to label -instructions. In fact, try gardening -and lawn care without using -pesticides. Details can be found in -gardening books at the library.</p> -<h4><i>Hardiness Zones</i></h4> -<p class="bq">When considering plants not native to -your area, consult a plant hardiness -zone map, found in most garden -catalogues. Make sure the plants -you want are rated for the winter -hardiness zone classification of -your area.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_44">44</div> -<h4><i>Soils and Topography</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Consult your local garden center, -university or county extension office -to have your soil tested. Plant species -are often adapted to certain types -of soils. If you know what type of -soil you have, you can identify the -types of plants that will grow best in -your yard.</p> -<h3>Plants for Wild Birds</h3> -<p class="bq">Seven types of plants are important -as bird habitat:</p> -<h4><i>Conifers</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Conifers are evergreen trees and -shrubs that include pines, spruces, -firs, arborvitae, junipers, cedars, and -yews. These plants are important as -escape cover, winter shelter and -summer nesting sites. Some also -provide sap, fruits and seeds.</p> -<h4><i>Grasses and Legumes</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Grasses and legumes can provide -cover for ground nesting birds—but -only if the area is not mowed during -the nesting season. Some grasses -and legumes provide seeds as well. -Native prairie grasses are becoming -increasingly popular for landscaping -purposes.</p> -<h4><i>Nectar-producing Plants</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Nectar-producing plants are very -popular for attracting hummingbirds -and orioles. Flowers with tubular red -corollas are especially attractive to -hummingbirds. Other trees, shrubs, -vines and flowers also can provide -nectar for hummingbirds.</p> -<h4><i>Summer-fruiting Plants</i></h4> -<p class="bq">This category includes plants that -produce fruits or berries from May -through August. In the summer these -plants can attract brown thrashers, -catbirds, robins, thrushes, waxwings, -woodpeckers, orioles, cardinals, -towhees and grosbeaks. Examples of -summer-fruiting plants are various -species of cherry, chokecherry, -honeysuckle, raspberry, serviceberry, -blackberry, blueberry, grape, -mulberry, plum and elderberry.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_45">45</div> -<h4><i>Fall-fruiting Plants</i></h4> -<p class="bq">This landscape component includes -shrubs and vines whose fruits ripen -in the fall. These foods are important -both for migratory birds which build -up fat reserves before migration and -as a food source for nonmigratory -species that need to enter the winter -season in good physical condition. -Fall-fruiting plants include dogwoods, -mountain ash, winter-berries, -cotoneasters and buffalo-berries.</p> -<h4><i>Winter-fruiting Plants</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Winter-fruiting plants are those -whose fruits remain attached to the -plants long after they first become -ripe in the fall. Many are not -palatable until they have frozen and -thawed many times. Examples are -glossy black chokecherry, Siberian -and “red splendor” crabapple, -snowberry, bittersweet, sumacs, -American highbush cranberry, -eastern and European wahoo, -Virginia creeper, and Chinaberry.</p> -<h4><i>Nut and Acorn Plants</i></h4> -<p class="bq">These include oaks, hickories, -buckeyes, chestnuts, butternuts, -walnuts and hazels. A variety of -birds, such as jays, woodpeckers and -titmice, eat the meats of broken nuts -and acorns. These plants also -contribute to good nesting habitat.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_46">46</div> -<h3>How to Get Started</h3> -<p class="bq">Think of this project as landscaping -for birds. Your goal will be to plant -an assortment of trees, shrubs and -flowers that will attract birds. If you -plan carefully it can be inexpensive -and fun for the whole family. The -best way to get started is to follow -these guidelines:</p> -<h4><i>Set Your Priorities</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Decide what types of birds you wish -to attract, then build your plan -around the needs of those species. -Talk to friends and neighbors to -find out what kinds of birds frequent -your area. Attend a local bird -club meeting and talk to local -birdwatchers about how they have -attracted birds to their yards.</p> -<h4><i>Use Native Plants When Possible</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Check with the botany department of -a nearby college or university or with -your state’s natural heritage program -for lists of trees, shrubs, and -wildflowers native to your area. Use -this list as a starting point for your -landscape plan. These plants are -naturally adapted to the climate of -your area and are a good long-term -investment. Many native plants are -both beautiful for landscaping -purposes and excellent for birds. If -you include nonnative plant species in -your plan, be sure they are not -considered “invasive pests” by plant -experts. Check out the bird books in -your local library.</p> -<h4><i>Draw a Map of Your Property</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Draw a map of your property to scale -using graph paper. Identify buildings, -sidewalks, power lines, buried cables, -fences, septic tank fields, trees, -shrubs and patios. Consider how -your plan relates to your neighbor’s -property—will the tree you plant -shade out the neighbor’s vegetable -garden? Identify and map sunny or -shady sites, low or wet sites, sandy -sites, and native plants that will be -left in place.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_47">47</div> -<p class="bq">Also identify special views that you -wish to enhance—areas for pets, -benches, picnics, storage, playing, -sledding, vegetable gardens and -paths.</p> -<h4><i>Get Your Soil Tested</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Get your soil tested by your local -garden center, county extension -agent or soil conservation service. -Find out what kinds of soil you have -and then find out if your soils have -nutrient or organic deficiencies that -fertilization or addition of compost -can correct. The soils you have will -help determine the plants which can -be included in your landscaping plan.</p> -<h4><i>Review the Seven Plant Habitat Components</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Review the seven plant components -described previously. Which -components are already present? -Which ones are missing? Remember -that you are trying to provide food -and cover through all four seasons. -Develop a list of plants that you think -will provide the missing habitat -components.</p> -<h4><i>Talk to Resource Experts</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Review this plant list with -landscaping resource experts who can -match your ideas with your soil types, -soil drainage and the plants available -through state or private nurseries. -People at the nearby arboretum can -help with your selections. At an -arboretum you can also see what -many plants look like. Talk with local -bird clubs, the members of which -probably are knowledgeable about -landscaping for birds.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_48">48</div> -<h4><i>Develop Your Planting Plan</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Sketch on your map the plants you -wish to add. Draw trees to a scale -that represents three-fourths of their -mature width, and shrubs at their full -mature width. This will help you -calculate how many trees and shrubs -you need. There is a tendency to -include so many trees that eventually -your yard will be mostly shaded. Be -sure to leave open sunny sites where -flowers and shrubs can thrive. Decide -how much money you can spend and -the time span of your project. Don’t -try to do too much at once. You might -try a five-year development plan.</p> -<h4><i>Implement Your Plan</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Finally, go to it! Begin your plantings -and include your entire family so they -can all feel they are helping wildlife. -Document your plantings on paper -and by photographs. Try taking -pictures of your yard from the same -spots every year to document the -growth of your plants.</p> -<h4><i>Maintain Your Plan</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Keep your new trees, shrubs and -flowers adequately watered, and keep -your planting areas weed-free by use -of landscaping film and wood chips or -shredded bark mulch. This avoids the -use of herbicides for weed control. -If problems develop with your plants, -consult a local nursery, garden center -or county extension agent.</p> -<h4><i>And Finally ...</i></h4> -<p class="bq">Make sure to take the time to enjoy -the wildlife that will eventually -respond to your landscaping efforts.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_49">49</div> -<h3>Protecting Bird Habitat</h3> -<p class="bq">Each year your state wildlife agency, -private conservation groups, the -U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, other -federal agencies, and many private -landowners and business leaders -work together to conserve and -manage millions of acres of habitat—swamps, -forests, ponds and -grasslands. These habitats provide -nesting habitat for songbirds and -shorebirds, ducks and geese, hawks -and owls.</p> -<p class="bq">You can make a difference in helping -protect habitats for migratory -birds by joining Partners in Flight, -a consortium of the above groups -dedicated to finding reasonable -ways to maintain the health of -bird populations in the Western -Hemisphere. For more information -about Partners in Flight, please -contact U.S. Fish & Wildlife -Service, Office of Migratory Bird -Management, 4401 North Fairfax -Drive, Arlington, VA 22203.</p> -<p class="bq">Another way that you can help -preserve a disappearing but valuable -natural resource—wetlands—is by -buying Federal Duck Stamps at your -local post office. Money from sales -of these stamps is used to protect -wetlands. For more information, -write U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, -Federal Duck Stamp Office, 1849 C -Street, NW, Washington, DC 20240.</p> -<p class="tb"><i>All photos copyright Maslowski -Photo, Inc. except as noted.</i></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_50">50</div> -<h3>Additional Resources</h3> -<h4><i>Books</i></h4> -<p class="bq">A large variety of books are available -on attracting, housing, feeding, and -gardening for birds. Check your local -library, book store, or the Internet, -for a selection of books on attracting -birds to your yard.</p> -<h4><i>Web Sites</i></h4> -<p class="bq">There are many good on-line -resources for bird enthusiasts. -Below are a few useful web sites that -discuss some of the more popular -backyard birds; general information -on bird feeding, housing, and -gardening for birds; ways to keep -birds safe from predators; and -opportunities for you to become -citizen scientists just by watching -birds at your feeder.</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0"><i>WildBirds.com</i>—feeding and attracting</p> -<p class="t0">http://www.wildbirds.com</p> -</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0"><i>Birding/Wild Birds</i>—backyard birds, birdhouses and feeders</p> -<p class="t0">http://www.birding.about.com/hobbies/birding</p> -</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0"><i>Backyard Wildlife Habitats</i>—National Wildlife Federation</p> -<p class="t0">http://www.nwf.org/habitats</p> -</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0"><i>Cats Indoors</i>—American Birding Conservancy</p> -<p class="t0">http://www.abcbirds.org/cats/catsindoors.htm</p> -</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0"><i>North American Bluebird Society</i></p> -<p class="t0">http://www.nabluebirdsociety.org</p> -</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0"><i>Purple Martin Conservation Association</i></p> -<p class="t0">http://www.purplemartin.org</p> -</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0"><i>BirdSource</i>—FeederWatch and Classroom FeederWatch</p> -<p class="t0">http://birdsource.org</p> -</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0"><i>National Bird-Feeding Society</i></p> -<p class="t0">http://www.birdfeeding.org/</p> -</div> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0"><i>Stokes Birds at Home/Birding</i>—feeding, housing, and gardening</p> -<p class="t0">http://www.stokesbirdsathome.com/birding</p> -</div> -<h4><i>Disclaimer</i></h4> -<p class="bq"><i>The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service intends no -endorsement and cannot guarantee the -accuracy of information found on these web -sites.</i></p> -<h2>Transcriber’s Notes</h2> -<ul> -<li>Silently corrected a few typos.</li> -<li>Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.</li> -<li>In the text versions only, text in <i>italics</i> is delimited by _underscores_.</li> -<li>Website references from the printed book may not be current.</li> -</ul> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of For the Birds, by Anonymous - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FOR THE BIRDS *** - -***** This file should be named 61796-h.htm or 61796-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/1/7/9/61796/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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