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diff --git a/old/61796-0.txt b/old/61796-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index b871252..0000000 --- a/old/61796-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1965 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of For the Birds, by Anonymous - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll -have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using -this ebook. - - - -Title: For the Birds - -Author: Anonymous - -Release Date: April 10, 2020 [EBook #61796] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FOR THE BIRDS *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - - - - U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service - - - - - For the Birds - - - http://birds.fws.gov - - March 2001 - - -_Among the fondest and most memorable moments of childhood are the -discoveries of songbirds nesting in the backyard. The distinctive, -mud-lined nests of robins and their beautiful blue eggs captivate people -of all ages. Likewise, the nesting activities of house wrens, cardinals, -chickadees and other common birds can stimulate a lifelong interest in -nature._ - -_As you learn to enjoy the beauty of birdlife around their home, you may -wish to improve the “habitat” in your yard so that more birds will visit -your property. You can attract birds by placing bird feeders, nest -boxes, and bird baths in your yard, and by planting a variety of trees, -shrubs, and flowers. These can provide good nesting sites, winter -shelter, places to hide from predators and natural food supplies that -are available year-round._ - -_Backyard bird feeding is a convenient way to enjoy wildlife. More than -65 million Americans of all ages watch, feed and landscape for birds._ - -_It doesn’t matter where you live—in an apartment, townhouse or single -family dwelling, in the city, suburbs or country. Just stand still and -you’ll hear them: wild birds. It is hard to imagine life without them._ - -_Bird watching is one of the fastest growing forms of outdoor recreation -in the country. Each year millions of people discover for the first time -the joys of birdwatching. It’s easy to understand why. Birds are fun to -watch._ - -_And you can watch them just about everywhere. The most convenient place -to start is right in your own backyard. All it takes to get their -attention is food or water, a place to build a nest and appropriate -vegetation._ - - [Illustration: Bird on window feeder] - - - - - _Getting Started_ - - -Backyard Bird Feeding - - When you want to attract a particular bird species and keep it coming - back to your backyard, what you do will be determined by where you - live, and the time of year. For example, on any winter day, you are - likely to see a cardinal at a sunflower feeder in Virginia, a - goldfinch at a thistle feeder in Massachusetts and hummingbirds at a - nectar feeder in southern California. - - A bird field identification book has pictures of different birds and - will help you find the names for the birds you’re likely to see and - the time of year you’re most likely to see them. So, first determine - what birds are likely to occur in your area. - - -Feeder Selection - - When the ground is covered with snow and ice, it’s hard to resist just - tossing seed out the door. But it’s healthier for the birds to get - their handouts at a feeding station, rather than off the ground. - Regardless of the season, food that sits on the ground for even a - short time is exposed to contamination by dampness, mold, bacteria, - animal droppings, lawn fertilizers and pesticides. - - You can start simply with a piece of scrap wood elevated a few inches - above the ground. Add a few holes for drainage and you’ve built a - platform feeder. It won’t be long before the birds find it. - - There are several factors to consider after you’ve decided to feed - birds in your backyard. - - - - - _Placement_ - - - Where do you want to watch your birds? From a kitchen window ... a - sliding glass door opening onto a deck ... a second-story window? - - [Illustration: Window feeder] - - Pick a location that is easy to get to. When the weather is bad and - birds are most vulnerable, you may be reluctant to fill a feeder that - is not in a convenient spot near a door or an accessible window. Also, - pick a site where discarded seed shells and bird droppings won’t be a - cleanup problem. - - Put your feeder where the squirrels can’t reach. Squirrels become a - problem when they take over a bird feeder, scaring the birds away and - tossing seed all over. Squirrels have been known to chew right through - plastic and wooden feeders. - - If you’ve seen squirrels in your neighborhood, it is safe to assume - they will visit your feeder. Think long and hard before you hang - anything from a tree limb. Squirrels are incredibly agile, and any - feeder hanging from a tree is likely to become a squirrel feeder. - - [Illustration: _Photo: Kevin Tennyson, USDOI_] - - In the long run, a squirrel-proof feeder or any feeder on a pole with - a baffle is the least aggravating solution. The most effective - squirrel-proof feeder is the pole-mounted metal “house” type. - - If you must hang a feeder, select a tube protected with metal mesh. - Most plastic “squirrel-proof” feeders, despite manufacturers’ claims, - may eventually succumb to the squirrels. Any wood or plastic feeder - can be effective when mounted on a pole with a plastic or metal - baffle, if the pole is at least 10 feet or more from a tree limb or - trunk (squirrels can jump great distances). - - - - - _Durability_ - - - Bird feeders are made from a variety of materials. You can buy - disposable plastic bag feeders; feeders made of cloth, nylon, vinyl - and metal netting; clear, lexan, colored and PVC plastic tubes; - ceramic and terra cotta; redwood, western cedar, birch, pine and - plywood; sheet metal and aluminized steel; glass tubes and bottles. - - [Illustration: Terra Cotta feeder] - - How long a feeder lasts depends on how well you maintain it, the - effects of weather, and whether squirrels can get to it. Water can get - into any feeder regardless of how carefully you protect it. Cloth, - vinyl, nylon and metal netting feeders are inexpensive, but they do - not protect your seed from spoiling in damp or wet weather. Improve - them by adding a plastic dome. - - Most wood, plastic, ceramic and solid metal feeders keep seed dry, but - water can get into the feeding portals. Look for feeders with drainage - holes in the bottoms of both the feeder hopper and the seed tray. - - Even bowl-type feeders and trays with drainage holes will clog with - seed and bird droppings that can mix with rainwater and be unhealthy - for any animal. Look for shallow plate-like seed trays to catch - dropped seeds while allowing spent seed shells to blow away. - - When you feed birds, expect bird droppings and a leftover food mess. - While you do not have to wash the feeder daily, you should clean it at - least every few weeks. Diseases like salmonella can grow in moldy, wet - seed and bird droppings in your feeder tray and on the ground below. - Move your feeder a few feet each season to give the ground underneath - time to assimilate the seed debris and bird droppings. - - The maintenance required to keep your feeder clean varies according to - the type of feeder. A thistle feeder for goldfinches should be cleaned - about once a month depending on how often it rains. Feeding - hummingbirds requires cleaning at the very least weekly, but - preferably two or three times a week. Sunflower and suet feeders need - to be cleaned only once a month. - - Plastic, ceramic and glass feeders are easy to clean. Wash them in a - bucket of hot, soapy water fortified with a capful or two of chlorine - bleach. Use the same regimen with wood feeders, but substitute another - disinfectant for the bleach so your wood won’t fade. - - - - - _Food Capacity_ - - - The ideal feeder capacity varies with your situation, and the types of - birds you want to attract. If you feed hummingbirds, big feeders are - not always better. One hummingbird will drink about twice its body - weight (less than an ounce) a day. Early in the season, hummers are - territorial and won’t share a feeder. A sixteen-ounce feeder can be - wasteful, or even lethal, because artificial nectar (sugar water) can - ferment in the hot summer sun. A two-ounce feeder is more than enough - for one hummer. Increase the size of your feeder depending on your - location and how many hummers you see in your yard. - - [Illustration: Winter feeding] - - If you opt for a large-volume seed feeder, protect it from the weather - and keep it clean. If after months of use, the birds suddenly abandon - your feeder full of seed, it’s time for a cleaning. - - -How Many Birds - - If too many birds at your feeder become a problem, you can control - their numbers by putting out smaller amounts of seed, or by using - specialty seeds or restrictive feeders that will attract only certain - species. If you fill your feeder only when it’s empty, the birds will - look for food elsewhere. - - You can encourage small birds and discourage large birds with feeders - that restrict access. Wood feeders with vertical bars and feeders - covered with wire mesh frustrate larger birds. - - The most non-selective feeders are the tray, platform or house feeders - because they allow easy access by all birds. - - Tube feeders without trays also restrict access to only small birds. - Remove the perches, and you’ve further restricted the feeder to only - those birds that can easily cling—finches, chickadees, titmice and - woodpeckers. - - If starlings are a problem at your suet feeder, discourage them by - using a suet feeder with access only from the bottom. Starlings are - reluctant to perch upside down. Chickadees and woodpeckers don’t find - that a problem. - - You can virtually eliminate visits by birds you would rather not see - by offering seeds they won’t eat. If you use more than one type of - seed, put them in separate feeders. This will reduce wasted seeds, as - birds will toss unwanted seeds out of a feeder to get to their - favorites. - - Watch a feeder filled with a seed mix and you’ll see the birds - methodically drop or kick out most of the seeds to get to their - favorite—sunflower. - - [Illustration: Seed mixtures] - - Many birds prefer sunflower. Some prefer millet. A few prefer peanuts. - Sparrows, blackbirds, doves and juncos will eat the other grains used - in pre-made mixes: corn, milo, red millet, oats, wheat and canary - seed. Birds will also kick out artificial “berry” pellets, processed - seed flavored and colored to look like real fruit. - - Black oil sunflower is the hands-down favorite of all the birds that - visit tube and house feeders. Birds who visit platform feeders (doves - and sparrows) favor white proso millet. Ducks, geese and quail will - eat corn. Many cereal grains (corn, milo, oats, canary, wheat, rape, - flax and buckwheat) in mixed bird seeds are NOT favorites of birds - that visit tube feeders. - - The most effective way to attract the largest variety of birds to your - yard is to put out separate feeders for each food: - - a starling-resistant suet feeder - a house feeder for sunflower - a bluebird feeder - a wire mesh cage feeder for peanut - a nectar feeder - a tube feeder for thistle - a stationary or tray fruit feeder - a house or platform feeder for millet - - [Illustration: Suet Feeder] - - [Illustration: Thistle Feeder] - - [Illustration: Feeding Tray] - - [Illustration: Nut Feeder] - - -Birds Attracted by Various Feeders and Foods - - _Tube Feeder with Black Oil Sunflower_ - goldfinches - chickadees - woodpeckers - nuthatches - titmice - redpolls - pine siskins - _... Adding a Tray to the Tube Feeder Will Also Attract_ - cardinals - jays - crossbills - purple finches - house finches - white-throated sparrows - white-crowned sparrows - _Tray or Platform Feeder—with Millet_ - doves - house sparrows - blackbirds - juncos - cowbirds - towhees - white-throated sparrows - tree sparrows - white-crowned sparrows - chipping sparrows - _Tray or Platform Feeder—with Corn_ - starlings - house sparrows - grackles - jays - juncos - bobwhite quail - doves - ring-necked pheasants - white-throated sparrows - _Platform Feeder or Tube Feeder and Tray—with Peanuts_ - cardinals - grackles - titmice - starlings - jays - _Niger Thistle Feeder with Tray_ - goldfinches - house finches - purple finches - redpolls - pine siskins - doves - chickadees - song sparrows - dark-eyed juncos - white-throated sparrows - _Nectar Feeder_ - hummingbirds - orioles - cardinals - tanagers - woodpeckers - finches - thrushes - _Fruit_ - orioles - tanagers - mockingbirds - bluebirds - thrashers - cardinals - woodpeckers - jays - starlings - thrushes - cedar waxwings - yellow-breasted chats - _Hanging Suet Feeder_ - woodpeckers - wrens - chickadees - nuthatches - kinglets - thrashers - creepers - cardinals - starlings - _Peanut Butter Suet_ - woodpeckers - goldfinches - juncos - cardinals - thrushes - jays - kinglets - bluebirds - wrens - starlings - _Hanging Peanut Feeder_ - woodpeckers - chickadees - titmice - - -Uninvited Guests at the Birdfeeder - - Once you get your bird feeding station up and running, you may run - into problems with two kinds of uninvited guests—those interested in - the seeds (squirrels and chipmunks, rats and mice, and starlings and - house sparrows), and those interested in eating a bird for dinner - (cats and hawks). - - [Illustration: Squirrel-resistant feeder] - - When a squirrel is at the feeder, you’re not likely to see birds. - Squirrels will scare off the birds while they eat the seed and - sometimes they will eat the feeder too. The simplest solution is a - squirrel-proof feeder or pole. - - Starlings and house sparrows are not native to North America and are - aggressive towards other species. Choose your feeder and seed to - exclude these species if possible. - - Chipmunks, rats and mice can also become a problem where there is seed - spillage under the feeder. Don’t use mixed bird seed, and if you don’t - have a squirrel problem, add a feeder tray. - - Feral cats and your neighbor’s tabby are a serious threat to many - birds. Keep feeders away from brushpiles and shrubbery, as this offers - cats the necessary cover to surprise birds. - - If there are no cats in your neighborhood and you find a pile of - feathers near your feeder, look for a full-bellied hawk perching on a - tree nearby. Don’t put out poisons or try to trap hawks though, as - this is against state and federal law. - - -Questions about Feeding Wild Birds - - - _When is the best time to start?_ - - Usually, whenever the weather is severe, birds will appreciate a - reliable supplemental food source. In northern areas, start before the - onset of cold weather so birds have time to find the feeder. - - - _When’s the best time to stop?_ - - Although you can feed birds year-round, especially with fruit and - nectar, you can stop feeding seeds once a reliable supply of insects - is available in the spring. - - - _Is it best to stop feeding hummingbirds after Labor Day?_ - - There is no evidence that feeding hummingbirds after Labor Day will - keep them from migrating. In fact, it may help a weakened straggler - refuel for the long haul. Leave your nectar feeders out until the - birds stop coming. - - - _How long does it take for birds to find a feeder?_ - - It may take more time for birds to find window feeders than hanging or - pole-mounted feeders. You may want to wrap aluminum foil around the - top of the feeder hanger. Sometimes all it takes is the reflection of - light on the foil to catch their attention. - - - _My feeder is full of seeds. I haven’t seen a bird in months. Am I doing - something wrong?_ - - When birds desert your feeder, it may be simply that a lot of natural - food is available nearby. Or something may be wrong, such as spoiled - seeds or a contaminated feeder. Throw the seeds away and wash the - feeder. Look at where your feeder is placed. Be sure it’s not - vulnerable to predators. At the same time, make sure it is not in an - open area, away from the cover in which birds usually travel. - - - _Will birds’ feet stick to metal feeders and perches in the wet winter - weather?_ - - Birds don’t have sweat glands in their feet, so they won’t freeze onto - metal feeders. There’s no need to cover any metal feeders parts with - plastic or wood to protect birds’ feet, tongues or eyes. - - - _Do wild birds need grit?_ - - Birds have no teeth to grind their food. The dirt, sand, pebbles and - grit they eat sit in their crop and help grind up their food. Adding - grit to your feeder is helpful, particularly in the winter and spring. - Crushed eggshells do the same thing, and in the spring have an added - benefit: they provide birds with extra calcium for producing eggs of - their own. - - - _Can birds choke on peanut butter?_ - - There is no evidence that birds can choke on peanut butter. However, - birds have no salivary glands. You can make it easier on them by - mixing peanut butter with lard, cornmeal or grit. Your birds will - appreciate drinking water too, from a bird bath or trough. - - - _Won’t suet go bad in the summer?_ - - In the winter, raw beef fat from the local butcher is all you need for - your suet feeder. When temperatures rise, raw fat can melt and get - rancid. It’s safer to use commercially rendered suet cakes in the - spring and summer months. Rendering (boiling) the fat kills bacteria. - - - _What is hummingbird nectar? Do hummers need nectar fortified with vitamins - and minerals?_ - - You can make your own hummingbird nectar by adding ¼ cup of sugar to a - cup of boiling water. Remember, sugar water will ferment when left in - the hot sun, turning nectar deadly. Do not put out a nectar feeder if - you are not willing to clean it at least weekly, preferably twice a - week. - - Hummers eat insects for their protein. There is no evidence that these - tiny birds need vitamin and mineral supplements. There is also no - evidence that adding red food coloring to nectar will harm the birds, - but it probably is not necessary to attract them. Just put your feeder - near red flowers or buy a red hummingbird feeder. - - [Illustration: Hummingbird feeder] - - - _How can I avoid bees at my hummingbird feeder?_ - - Bees will inevitably visit your hummingbird feeder, especially in hot - weather. Little plastic bee guards may help keep them from getting - nectar but it won’t stop them from trying. Don’t take the chance of - contaminating your nectar by putting vegetable oil around the feeding - portals. One solution is to add a few small feeders away from where - people are likely to be bothered by bees. - - - _How close to my window can I put a feeder?_ - - Birds will come right to your window. Sometimes it takes a while for - them to overcome their initial reluctance, so be patient. Don’t worry - that a feeder on the window will cause birds to fly into the window. - Birds fly into the window because they see the reflection of the - woods. Window feeders and decals help break up the reflection. - - - _Is cracked corn coated with a red dye safe to use?_ - - No. The red or pink coating is capstan, a fungicide used on seeds - meant for planting. If you buy a bag of cracked corn or other seed - treated with capstan, return it to the store. It can kill horses, - other mammals and wild birds. - - - _I bought a bag of sunflower seeds early in the spring. Over the summer I - first noticed worms, then moths. What can I do to keep the bugs out?_ - - Moths lay their eggs in sunflower seeds. The eggs lay dormant as long - as the seeds are stored in a cool dry place. In the summer, seeds get - hot and the eggs hatch. The best way to avoid this problem is to buy - seeds in smaller quantities, or store your seeds in a cool, dry place. - It also helps to know where your retailer stores the seed. An - air-conditioned storage unit is the better choice. - - Insects also lay their eggs in burlap bags. Don’t buy seeds in burlap - bags. Don’t buy seed in paper and plastic bags with patched holes. - That may be a sign of insect or rodent infestation. - - -Homes for Birds - - - _Birds You Can Attract to Nest Boxes_ - - Many of the birds that visit feeders and baths may stay and nest in - nearby trees. Most of them, including cardinals, doves and orioles, - don’t nest in boxes. You can still help them by considering their food - and shelter requirements in your landscape plans. - - More than two dozen North American birds nest in bird houses. The - following descriptions will help you determine which birds might visit - your neighborhood. - - - _Bluebirds_ - - If you put up a bluebird house near an old field, orchard, park, - cemetery or golf course, you might have a chance of attracting a pair - of bluebirds. They prefer nest boxes on a tree stump or wooden fence - post between three and five feet high. Bluebirds also nest in - abandoned woodpecker nest holes. - - The most important measurement is the hole diameter. An inch and a - half is small enough to deter starlings, which, along with house - sparrows, have been known to kill bluebirds, as well as adults sitting - on the nest. Bluebirds have problems with other animals too. - Discourage cats, snakes, raccoons and chipmunks by mounting the house - on a metal pole, or use a metal predator guard on a wood post. - - - _American Robins_ - - The robin is our largest thrush. They prefer to build their nest in - the crotch of a tree. If you don’t have an appropriate tree, you can - offer a nesting platform. Pick a spot six feet or higher up on a - shaded tree trunk or under the overhang of a shed or porch. Creating a - “mud puddle” nearby offers further enticement, as robins use mud to - hold their nests together. - - - _Chickadees, Nuthatches and Titmice_ - - Chickadees, titmice and nuthatches share the same food, feeders, and - habitat. If you put a properly designed nest box in a wooded yard, at - least one of these species might check it out. - - Put chickadee houses at eye level. Hang them from limbs or secure them - to tree trunks. The entrance hole should be 1⅛ inches to attract - chickadees, yet exclude house sparrows. Anchor houses for nuthatches - on tree trunks five to six feet off the ground. - - [Illustration: Titmouse house] - - - _Brown Creepers and Prothonotary Warblers_ - - Look for brown creepers to nest behind the curved bark of tree trunks. - In heavily wooded yards, slab bark houses appeal to creepers. - Prothonotary warblers also prefer slab bark houses, or bluebird boxes - attached to a tree trunk, but theirs must be placed over water (lakes, - rivers or swamps) with a good canopy of trees overhead. - - - _Wrens_ - - Wrens don’t seem to be very picky about where they nest. Try nest - boxes with a 1 inch × 2 inch horizontal slot (1½ inch × 2½ inch for - the larger Carolina wrens) instead of a circle. These are easier for - the wrens to use. However, the larger the opening, the more likely it - is house sparrows will occupy the box. - - Wrens are known for filling a nest cavity with twigs, regardless of - whether they use the nest to raise their young. Since male house wrens - build several nests for the female to choose from, hang several nest - boxes at eye level on partly sunlit tree limbs. Wrens are sociable and - will accept nest boxes quite close to your house. - - [Illustration: Inside of nesting cavity] - - - _Tree and Violet-green Swallows_ - - Tree swallows prefer nest boxes attached to dead trees. Space the - boxes about seven feet apart for these white-bellied birds with - iridescent blue-green backs and wings. The ideal setting for these - insect-eaters is on the edge of a large field near a lake, pond or - river. - - Violet-green swallows nest in forested mountains of the West; boxes - placed on large trees in a semi-open woodland will attract them. - - - _Barn Swallows and Phoebes_ - - If you have the right habitat, like an open barn or old shed, barn - swallows and phoebes are easy to attract. It’s their nesting behavior, - not their plumage or song, that catches your attention. However, these - birds tend to nest where you would rather not have them: on a ledge - right over your front door. To avoid a mess by your door, offer the - birds a nesting shelf nearby where you’d rather have them. - - [Illustration: Nesting ledge] - - - _Purple Martins_ - - Many people want martins in their yards because, it’s been said, these - birds eat 2,000 mosquitoes a day. While it’s true that they eat flying - insects, don’t expect purple martins to eliminate mosquitoes in your - yard completely. Martins prefer dragonflies, which prey on mosquito - larvae. If you want to help rid your yard of mosquitoes, put up a bat - roosting box. One bat can eat thousands of mosquitoes a night. - - Martins are entertaining creatures, however, and you’ll enjoy watching - their antics in your backyard. You have the best chance of attracting - martins if you put a house on the edge of a pond or river, surrounded - by a field or lawn. Martins need a radius of about 40 feet of - unobstructed flying space around their houses. A telephone wire nearby - gives them a place to perch in sociable groups. - - [Illustration: Ceramic house] - - Martins nest in groups, so you’ll need a house with a minimum of four - large rooms—6 or more inches on all sides, with a 2½ inch entrance - hole about 1½ inches above the floor. Ventilation and drainage are - critical factors in martin house design. Porches, railings, porch - dividers and supplemental roof perches, like a TV antenna, make any - house more appealing. - - You can also make houses from gourds by fashioning an entrance hole - and small holes in the bottom for drainage. If you use gourds, it’s - not necessary to add railings and perches. Adult martins will perch on - the wire used to hang the houses. Before you select a house, think - about what kind of pole you’re going to put it on. Martins occupy a - house ten to twenty feet off the ground. Some poles are less - cumbersome than others. - - Gourd houses are the easiest to set up. String them from a wire - between two poles, from a sectional aluminum pole, or on pulleys - mounted to a crossbar high up on a pole. - - You can mount lightweight aluminum houses for martins on telescoping - poles, providing easy access for maintenance and inspection. Because - of their weight (more than 30 pounds), wood houses should not be - mounted on telescoping poles. You’ll have to use a sturdy metal or a - wood pole attached to a pivot post. The problem with this lowering - technique is that you can’t tilt the house without damaging the nests - inside. If you put your house on a shorter, fixed pole, ten to twelve - feet high, you can use a ladder to inspect and maintain it. - - - _Flycatchers_ - - The great crested flycatcher and its western cousin, the ash-throated - flycatcher, are common in wooded suburbs and rural areas with - woodlots. Their natural nesting sites are abandoned woodpecker holes. - Flycatchers may nest in a bird house if it is placed about ten feet up - in a tree in an orchard or at the edge of a field or stream. This is a - longshot, but well worth the effort if you are successful. - - - _Woodpeckers_ - - You can attract all types of woodpeckers with a suet feeder, but only - the flicker is likely to use a bird house. They prefer a box with - roughened interior and a floor covered with a two-inch layer of wood - chips or coarse sawdust. Flickers are especially attracted to nest - boxes filled with sawdust, which they “excavate” to suit themselves. - For best results, place the box high up on a tree trunk, exposed to - direct sunlight. - - Try building a birdhouse for the other species of woodpeckers - following the guidelines in this booklet. You might be surprised! - - - _Owls_ - - Most owls seldom build their own nests. Great horned and long-eared - owls prefer abandoned crow and hawk nests. Other owls (barred, barn, - saw-whet, boreal and screech) nest in tree cavities and bird houses. - - Barn owls are best known for selecting nesting sites near farms. Where - trees are sparse, these birds will nest in church steeples, silos and - barns. If you live near a farm or a golf course, try fastening a nest - box for owls about 15 feet up on a tree trunk. - - Screech owls prefer abandoned woodpecker holes at the edge of a field - or neglected orchard. They will readily take to boxes lined with an - inch or two of wood shavings. If you clean the box out in late spring - after the young owls have fledged, you may attract a second tenant—a - kestrel. Trees isolated from larger tracts of woods have less chance - of squirrels taking over the box. - - [Illustration: Owl house] - - - Selecting a House - - In the bird house business, there’s no such thing as “one size fits - all.” Decide which bird you want to attract, then get a house for that - particular bird. Look through any book or catalog and you’ll see bird - houses of all sizes and shapes, with perches and without, made of - materials you might not have thought of: recycled paper, gourds, - plastic, rubber, pottery, metal and concrete. The proper combination - of quality materials and design makes a good birdhouse. - - [Illustration: Covered tray feeder] - - -Materials - - Wood is just about the best building material for any birdhouse. It’s - durable, has good insulating qualities and breathes. - Three-quarter-inch thick bald cypress and red cedar are recommended. - Pine and exterior grade plywood will do, but they are not as durable. - - It makes no difference whether the wood is slab, rough-cut or - finished, as long as the inside has not been treated with stains or - preservatives. Fumes from the chemicals could harm the birds. - - There’s no need to paint cypress and cedar, but pine and plywood - houses will last longer with a coat of water-based exterior latex - paint. White is the color for purple martin houses. Tan, gray or dull - green works best for the other cavity nesting species. The dull, light - colors reflect heat and are less conspicuous to predators. Don’t paint - the inside of the box or the entrance hole. - - Regardless of which wood you select, gluing all the joints before you - nail them will extend the life of your bird house. Galvanized or brass - shank nails, hinges and screws resist rusting and hold boxes together - more tightly as they age. - - [Illustration: Suspended wooden nesting box] - - Resist the temptation to put a metal roof on your bird house. - Reflective metal makes sense for martin houses up on a sixteen-foot - pole, but when it’s tacked onto the roof of a wood chickadee house, - the shiny metal is more likely to attract predators. - - Natural gourds make very attractive bird houses. They breathe, and - because they sway in the wind they are less likely to be taken over by - house sparrows and starlings. - - Grow your own gourds and you’ll have dozens to choose from in the - years ahead. If you don’t have the space to grow them, a coat of - polyurethane or exterior latex (on the outside only) will add years to - the one you have. - - Properly designed pottery, aluminum (for purple martins only), - concrete and plastic houses are durable, but don’t drop them. - - Be sure to provide ventilation, drainage, and easy access for - maintenance and monitoring. Concrete (or a mix of concrete and - sawdust) offers protection other houses cannot: squirrels can’t chew - their way in. - - -Design - - How elaborate you make your bird house depends on your own tastes. In - addition to where you place the box, the most important considerations - are: box height, depth, floor dimensions, diameter of entrance hole - and height of the hole above the box floor. - - Refer to the following chart before building your nest box, keeping in - mind that birds make their own choices, without regard for charts. So - don’t be surprised if you find tenants you never expected in a house - you intended for someone else. - - [Illustration: Squirrel on feeder] - - -Nest Box Dimensions - - Species Box floor Box Entrance Entrance Placement - (inches) height height (inches) diameter - (inches) (inches) height - (feet) - - American Robin[1] 7×8 8 —— —— - Eastern & Western 5×5 8-12 6-10 1½ 4-6 - Bluebirds - Mountain Bluebird 5×5 8-12 6-10 1½ 4-6 - Chickadee 4×4 8-10 6-8 1⅛ 4-15 - Titmouse 4×4 10-12 6-10 1¼ 5-15 - Ash-throated Flycatcher 6×6 8-12 6-10 1½ 5-15 - Great Crested Flycatcher 6×6 8-12 6-10 1¾ 5-15 - Phoebe[1] 6×6 6 —— —— 8-12 - Brown-headed/Pygmy/ 4×4 8-10 6-8 1¼ 5-15 - Red-breasted Nuthatch - White-breasted Nuthatch 4×4 8-10 6-8 1⅜ 5-15 - Prothonotary Warbler 5×5 6 4-5 1⅛ 4-8 - Barn Swallow[1] 6×6 6 —— —— 8-12 - Purple Martin 6×6 6 1-2 2¼ 6-20 - Tree and Violet-Green 5×5 6-8 4-6 1½ 5-15 - Swallows - Downy Woodpecker 4×4 8-10 6-8 1¼ 5-15 - Hairy Woodpecker 6×6 12-15 9-12 1½ 8-20 - Lewis’s Woodpecker 7×7 16-18 14-16 2½ 12-20 - Northern Flicker 7×7 16-18 14-16 2½ 6-20 - Pileated Woodpecker 8×8 16-24 12-20 3×4 15-25 - Red-Headed Woodpecker 6×6 12-15 9-12 2 10-20 - Yellow-bellied Sapsucker 5×5 12-15 9-12 1½ 10-20 - Bewick’s/House Wrens 4×4 6-8 4-6 1¼ 5-10 - Carolina Wren 4×4 6-8 4-6 1½ 5-10 - Barn Owl 10×18 15-18 4 6 12-18 - Screech-Owl and Kestrel 8×8 12-15 9-12 3 10-30 - Osprey 48×48 platform - Red-tailed Hawk/Great 24×24 platform - Horned Owl - Wood Duck 10×18 10-24 12-16 4 10-20 - - -[1]_Use nesting shelf, platform with three sides and an open front_ - - - Now that you have the correct dimensions for your bird house, take a - look at how to make it safe: ventilation, drainage, susceptibility to - predators, and ease of maintenance. - - - - - _Ventilation_ - - - You should provide air vents in bird boxes. There are two ways to - provide ventilation: leave gaps between the roof and sides of the box, - or drill ¼ inch holes just below the roof. - - - - - _Drainage_ - - - Water becomes a problem when it sits in the bottom of a bird house. A - roof with sufficient slope and overhang offers some protection. - Drilling the entrance hole on an upward slant may also help keep the - water out. Regardless of design, driving rain will get in through the - entrance hole. You can assure proper drainage by cutting away the - corners of the box floor and drilling ¼-inch holes. Nest boxes will - last longer if the floors are recessed about ¼ inch. - - - - - _Entrance Hole_ - - - Look for the entrance hole on the front panel near the top. A rough - surface both inside and out makes it easier for the adults to get into - the box and, when it’s time, for the nestlings to climb out. - - If your box is made of finished wood, add a couple of grooves outside - below the hole. Open the front panel and add grooves, cleats or wire - mesh to the inside. Never put up a bird house with a perch below the - entrance hole. Perches offer starlings, house sparrows and other - predators a convenient place to wait for lunch. Don’t be tempted by - duplexes or houses that have more than one entrance hole. Except for - purple martins, cavity-nesting birds prefer not to share a house. - While these condos look great in your yard, starlings and house - sparrows are inclined to use them. - - - - - _Accessibility_ - - - Bird houses should be easily accessible so you can see how your birds - are doing and clean out the house. Monitor your bird houses every week - and evict unwanted creatures such as house sparrows or starlings. - - Be careful when you inspect your bird boxes—you may find something - other than a bird inside. Don’t be surprised to see squirrels, mice, - snakes or insects. Look for fleas, flies, mites, larvae and lice in - the bottom of the box. If you find insects and parasites, your first - reaction may be to grab the nearest can of insect spray. If you do, - use only insecticides known to be safe around birds: 1 percent - rotenone powder or pyrethrin spray. If wasps are a problem, coat the - inside top of the box with bar soap. - - [Illustration: Squirrel in nest box] - - Here’s how to check your nest boxes for unwanted visitors: - - Watch the nest for 20-30 minutes. If you don’t see or hear any birds - near the box, go over and tap on the box. If you hear bird sounds, - open the top and take a quick peek inside. If everything is all right, - close the box. If you see problems (parasites or predators), remove - them and close the box. - - A bird house with easy access makes the job simple. Most bird houses - can be opened from the top, the side, the front or the bottom. Boxes - that open from the top and the front provide the easiest access. - Opening the box from the top is less likely to disturb nesting birds. - It’s impossible to open a box from the bottom without the nest falling - out. While side- and front-opening boxes are convenient for cleaning - and monitoring, they have one drawback: the nestlings may jump out. If - this happens, don’t panic. Pick them up and put them back in the nest. - Don’t worry that the adults will reject the nestlings if you handle - them. That’s a myth; most birds have a terrible sense of smell. - - [Illustration: Cleaning house] - - If you clean out your nest boxes after each brood has fledged, several - pairs may use the nest throughout the summer. Some cavity-nesting - birds will not nest again in a box full of old nesting material. - - In the fall, after you’ve cleaned out your nest box for the last time, - you can put it in storage or leave it out. Gourds and pottery last - longer if you take them in for the winter. You can leave your purple - martin houses up, but plug the entrance holes to discourage starlings - and house sparrows. - - Leaving your wood and concrete houses out provides shelter for birds, - flying squirrels and other animals during winter. Each spring, - thoroughly clean all houses left out for the winter. - - - - - _Limiting Predator Access_ - - - Proper box depth, and roof and entrance hole design will help reduce - access by predators, such as raccoons, cats, opossums, and squirrels. - Sometimes all it takes is an angled roof with a three-inch overhang to - discourage small mammals. - - The entrance hole is the only thing between a predator and a bird - house full of nestlings. By itself, the ¾-inch wall is not wide enough - to keep out the arm of a raccoon or house cat. Add a predator guard (a - ¾-inch thick rectangular wood block with an entrance hole cut in it) - to thicken the wall and you’ll discourage sparrows, starlings, and - cats. - - -Bird House Placement - - Where you put your bird house is as important as its design and - construction. Cavity-nesting birds are very particular about where - they live. If you don’t have the right habitat, the birds are not - likely to find the house. You can modify your land to attract the - birds you want to see by putting out a bird bath, planting - fruit-bearing shrubs, including more trees or installing a pond with a - waterfall. - - [Illustration: Variety of bird feeders] - - Once you’ve matched up the right bird house with the appropriate - habitat, you have to know where to put the nest box. Should you hang - it from a tree limb, nail it to a fence or mount it on a pole or a - tree trunk? - - Most species require a fairly narrow range of heights for nest boxes. - After checking the table in this brochure, pick a height that’s - convenient for you. After all, you will want to watch what goes on and - keep the box clean. If you want to watch chickadees from your second - floor window or deck, fifteen feet is reasonable but it’s a lot easier - to clean out a box at eye level. - - Here are some tips on where to put bird houses: - - don’t put bird houses near bird feeders. - - houses mounted on metal poles are less vulnerable to predators than - houses nailed to tree trunks or hung from tree limbs. - - use no more than four small nest boxes or one large box per acre for - any one species. - - put about 100 yards between bluebird boxes and 75 yards between - swallow boxes. (If you have both species, pair the houses with one - bluebird box 25 feet from a swallow box.) - - don’t put more than one box in a tree unless the tree is extremely - large or the boxes are for different species. - - if you have very hot summers, face the entrance holes of your boxes - north or east to avoid overheating the box. - - -Protection from Predators - - - _Cats_ - - [Illustration: Cat] - - Nesting birds are extremely vulnerable to cats, as are fledglings and - birds roosting for the night. Bell collars on cats offer birds little - protection. Nailing a sheet metal guard or cone to a tree trunk is - unsightly, but may deter less agile felines. Houses mounted on metal - poles are the most difficult for predators to reach, especially if you - smear the poles with a petroleum jelly and hot pepper mixture. The - best deterrent is for owners to keep their cats inside whenever - possible. - - - _Dogs_ - - Pet dogs are a hazard to nestlings in the spring and summer. Don’t let - your dog run loose during nesting time. - - - _Squirrels_ - - Red squirrels, and sometimes gray squirrels, can become a serious - menace to bird houses and the birds themselves. If you find your nest - hole enlarged, chances are a red squirrel is the culprit. Once inside - the box, squirrels make a meal of the eggs and young. Adding a - predator guard made of sheet metal to the entrance hole is usually - enough to keep squirrels out. - - - _Raccoons and Opossums_ - - Raccoons and opossums will stick their arms inside nest boxes and try - to pull out the adult, young, and eggs. Adding a ¾-inch thick predator - guard to the bird house or an inverted cone to its pole support is a - simple solution. - - - _Snakes_ - - Snakes play an important part in the balance of nature. If you find - one in your bird house, don’t kill it. Snake-proof your house by - putting it on a metal pole lathered with petroleum jelly or red - cayenne pepper. - - - _House Sparrows and Starlings_ - - If you don’t discourage them, these two nuisance species introduced - from Europe will harass or kill cavity-nesting birds. Since house - sparrows and starlings are not protected by law, you may destroy their - nests. But remember, other birds are protected by law. - - - _House Wrens_ - - House wrens sometimes interfere with the nesting success of other - birds by puncturing their eggs. But, unlike the house sparrow and - starling, these birds are native to North America and are protected by - law. Don’t be tempted to intervene when wrens appear at your backyard - birdhouse. - - - _Insects_ - - Many insects lay their eggs and pupate in bird houses. Inspect your - bird houses for signs of gypsy moths, blow flies, wasps, ants, gnats - and bees. Keep bees and wasps from attaching their nests by coating - the inside of the roof with bar soap. In areas where gypsy moths - abound, avoid placing boxes in oak trees, which the gypsy moths favor. - - Pyrethrin and rotenone insecticides are recommended for killing fly - larvae, bird lice and mites after birds have finished nesting for the - season. - - -Attracting Birds - - As people learn to enjoy the beauty of birds around their home, they - may wish to improve the “habitat” in their yard so that more birds - will visit their property. You can attract birds by placing bird - feeders, nest boxes and bird baths in your yard, and by planting a - variety of trees, shrubs, and flowers. These can provide good nesting - sites, winter shelter, places to hide from predators and natural food - supplies that are available year-round. - - [Illustration: Bird bath] - - -Landscaping for Birds - - The most surefire way to attract birds to your backyard is to make - certain the appropriate habitat is available to them. You may be lucky - and already have a good supply of food, shelter, and water available - for our feathered friends. In that case, you have to do little more - than stand back and watch. - - However, for most backyards, bird habitat must be created. It’s called - “landscaping for birds” and it can be as simple or extravagant as you - wish. Whatever the approach, anyone who has ever tried this type of - landscaping comes away with a real love for it after their first - sparkling hummingbirds hover at the coral bells, or the perky catbird - comes down for a drink of water from the birdbath, or the sleek - waxwings gather en masse to sample bittersweet berries. - - -Benefits of Landscaping for Birds - - You can derive many benefits from landscaping to attract birds to your - yard: - - - _Increased Wildlife Populations_ - - You can probably double the number of bird species using your property - with a good landscaping plan. - - - _Energy Conservation_ - - By carefully arranging your conifer and hardwood trees, you can lower - winter heating and summer cooling bills for your house. - - - _Soil Conservation_ - - Certain landscape plants can prevent soil erosion. - - - _Natural Beauty_ - - A good landscaping plan contributes to a beautiful, natural setting - around your home that is pleasing to people as well as birds. - - [Illustration: Bath in garden setting] - - - _Wildlife Photography_ - - Wildlife photography is a wonderful hobby for people of all ages. - - - _Birdwatching_ - - Try keeping a list of all the birds you see in your yard or from your - yard. Some people have counted nearly 200 species of birds in their - yard! - - - _Natural Insect Control_ - - Birds such as tree swallows, house wrens, brown thrashers and orioles - eat a variety of insects. - - - _Food Production_ - - Some plants that attract wildlife are also appealing to humans. People - and wildlife can share cherries, chokecherries, strawberries, and - crabapples. - - - _Property Value_ - - A good landscaping plan can greatly increase the value of your - property by adding natural beauty and an abundance of wildlife. - - - _Habitat for Kids_ - - Some of the best wildlife habitats are the best habitats for young - people to discover the wonders of nature. A backyard bird habitat can - stimulate young people to develop a lifelong interest in wildlife and - conservation. - - -Basics of Landscaping for Birds - - Landscaping for birds involves nine basic principles: - - - _Food_ - - Every bird species has its own unique food requirements that may - change as the seasons change. Learn the food habits of the birds you - wish to attract. Then plant the appropriate trees, shrubs, and flowers - to provide the fruits, berries, seeds, acorns, nuts and nectar. - - - _Water_ - - You may be able to double the number of bird species in your yard by - providing a source of water. A frog pond, water garden, or bird bath - will get lots of bird use, especially if the water is dripping, - splashing or moving. - - - _Shelter_ - - Birds need places where they can hide from predators and escape from - severe weather. Trees (including dead ones), shrubs, tall grass and - bird houses provide excellent shelter. - - - _Diversity_ - - The best landscaping plan is one that includes a variety of native - plants. This helps attract the most bird species. - - - _Four Seasons_ - - Give birds food and shelter throughout the year by planting a variety - of trees, shrubs and flowers that provide year-round benefits. - - - _Arrangement_ - - Properly arrange the different habitat components in your yard. - Consider the effects of prevailing winds (and snow drifting) so your - yard will be protected from harsh winter weather. - - - _Protection_ - - Birds should be protected from unnecessary mortality. When choosing - the placement of bird feeders and nest boxes, consider their - accessibility to predators. Picture windows can also be dangerous for - birds, who fly directly at windows when they see the reflection of - trees and shrubs. A network of parallel, vertical strings spaced 4 - inches apart can be placed on the outside of windows to prevent this - problem. Be cautious about the kinds of herbicides and pesticides used - in your yard. Apply them only when necessary and strictly according to - label instructions. In fact, try gardening and lawn care without using - pesticides. Details can be found in gardening books at the library. - - - _Hardiness Zones_ - - When considering plants not native to your area, consult a plant - hardiness zone map, found in most garden catalogues. Make sure the - plants you want are rated for the winter hardiness zone classification - of your area. - - - _Soils and Topography_ - - Consult your local garden center, university or county extension - office to have your soil tested. Plant species are often adapted to - certain types of soils. If you know what type of soil you have, you - can identify the types of plants that will grow best in your yard. - - -Plants for Wild Birds - - Seven types of plants are important as bird habitat: - - - _Conifers_ - - Conifers are evergreen trees and shrubs that include pines, spruces, - firs, arborvitae, junipers, cedars, and yews. These plants are - important as escape cover, winter shelter and summer nesting sites. - Some also provide sap, fruits and seeds. - - - _Grasses and Legumes_ - - Grasses and legumes can provide cover for ground nesting birds—but - only if the area is not mowed during the nesting season. Some grasses - and legumes provide seeds as well. Native prairie grasses are becoming - increasingly popular for landscaping purposes. - - - _Nectar-producing Plants_ - - Nectar-producing plants are very popular for attracting hummingbirds - and orioles. Flowers with tubular red corollas are especially - attractive to hummingbirds. Other trees, shrubs, vines and flowers - also can provide nectar for hummingbirds. - - - _Summer-fruiting Plants_ - - This category includes plants that produce fruits or berries from May - through August. In the summer these plants can attract brown - thrashers, catbirds, robins, thrushes, waxwings, woodpeckers, orioles, - cardinals, towhees and grosbeaks. Examples of summer-fruiting plants - are various species of cherry, chokecherry, honeysuckle, raspberry, - serviceberry, blackberry, blueberry, grape, mulberry, plum and - elderberry. - - - _Fall-fruiting Plants_ - - This landscape component includes shrubs and vines whose fruits ripen - in the fall. These foods are important both for migratory birds which - build up fat reserves before migration and as a food source for - nonmigratory species that need to enter the winter season in good - physical condition. Fall-fruiting plants include dogwoods, mountain - ash, winter-berries, cotoneasters and buffalo-berries. - - - _Winter-fruiting Plants_ - - Winter-fruiting plants are those whose fruits remain attached to the - plants long after they first become ripe in the fall. Many are not - palatable until they have frozen and thawed many times. Examples are - glossy black chokecherry, Siberian and “red splendor” crabapple, - snowberry, bittersweet, sumacs, American highbush cranberry, eastern - and European wahoo, Virginia creeper, and Chinaberry. - - - _Nut and Acorn Plants_ - - These include oaks, hickories, buckeyes, chestnuts, butternuts, - walnuts and hazels. A variety of birds, such as jays, woodpeckers and - titmice, eat the meats of broken nuts and acorns. These plants also - contribute to good nesting habitat. - - -How to Get Started - - Think of this project as landscaping for birds. Your goal will be to - plant an assortment of trees, shrubs and flowers that will attract - birds. If you plan carefully it can be inexpensive and fun for the - whole family. The best way to get started is to follow these - guidelines: - - - _Set Your Priorities_ - - Decide what types of birds you wish to attract, then build your plan - around the needs of those species. Talk to friends and neighbors to - find out what kinds of birds frequent your area. Attend a local bird - club meeting and talk to local birdwatchers about how they have - attracted birds to their yards. - - - _Use Native Plants When Possible_ - - Check with the botany department of a nearby college or university or - with your state’s natural heritage program for lists of trees, shrubs, - and wildflowers native to your area. Use this list as a starting point - for your landscape plan. These plants are naturally adapted to the - climate of your area and are a good long-term investment. Many native - plants are both beautiful for landscaping purposes and excellent for - birds. If you include nonnative plant species in your plan, be sure - they are not considered “invasive pests” by plant experts. Check out - the bird books in your local library. - - - _Draw a Map of Your Property_ - - Draw a map of your property to scale using graph paper. Identify - buildings, sidewalks, power lines, buried cables, fences, septic tank - fields, trees, shrubs and patios. Consider how your plan relates to - your neighbor’s property—will the tree you plant shade out the - neighbor’s vegetable garden? Identify and map sunny or shady sites, - low or wet sites, sandy sites, and native plants that will be left in - place. - - Also identify special views that you wish to enhance—areas for pets, - benches, picnics, storage, playing, sledding, vegetable gardens and - paths. - - - _Get Your Soil Tested_ - - Get your soil tested by your local garden center, county extension - agent or soil conservation service. Find out what kinds of soil you - have and then find out if your soils have nutrient or organic - deficiencies that fertilization or addition of compost can correct. - The soils you have will help determine the plants which can be - included in your landscaping plan. - - - _Review the Seven Plant Habitat Components_ - - Review the seven plant components described previously. Which - components are already present? Which ones are missing? Remember that - you are trying to provide food and cover through all four seasons. - Develop a list of plants that you think will provide the missing - habitat components. - - - _Talk to Resource Experts_ - - Review this plant list with landscaping resource experts who can match - your ideas with your soil types, soil drainage and the plants - available through state or private nurseries. People at the nearby - arboretum can help with your selections. At an arboretum you can also - see what many plants look like. Talk with local bird clubs, the - members of which probably are knowledgeable about landscaping for - birds. - - - _Develop Your Planting Plan_ - - Sketch on your map the plants you wish to add. Draw trees to a scale - that represents three-fourths of their mature width, and shrubs at - their full mature width. This will help you calculate how many trees - and shrubs you need. There is a tendency to include so many trees that - eventually your yard will be mostly shaded. Be sure to leave open - sunny sites where flowers and shrubs can thrive. Decide how much money - you can spend and the time span of your project. Don’t try to do too - much at once. You might try a five-year development plan. - - - _Implement Your Plan_ - - Finally, go to it! Begin your plantings and include your entire family - so they can all feel they are helping wildlife. Document your - plantings on paper and by photographs. Try taking pictures of your - yard from the same spots every year to document the growth of your - plants. - - - _Maintain Your Plan_ - - Keep your new trees, shrubs and flowers adequately watered, and keep - your planting areas weed-free by use of landscaping film and wood - chips or shredded bark mulch. This avoids the use of herbicides for - weed control. If problems develop with your plants, consult a local - nursery, garden center or county extension agent. - - - _And Finally ..._ - - Make sure to take the time to enjoy the wildlife that will eventually - respond to your landscaping efforts. - - -Protecting Bird Habitat - - Each year your state wildlife agency, private conservation groups, the - U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, other federal agencies, and many private - landowners and business leaders work together to conserve and manage - millions of acres of habitat—swamps, forests, ponds and grasslands. - These habitats provide nesting habitat for songbirds and shorebirds, - ducks and geese, hawks and owls. - - You can make a difference in helping protect habitats for migratory - birds by joining Partners in Flight, a consortium of the above groups - dedicated to finding reasonable ways to maintain the health of bird - populations in the Western Hemisphere. For more information about - Partners in Flight, please contact U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, - Office of Migratory Bird Management, 4401 North Fairfax Drive, - Arlington, VA 22203. - - Another way that you can help preserve a disappearing but valuable - natural resource—wetlands—is by buying Federal Duck Stamps at your - local post office. Money from sales of these stamps is used to protect - wetlands. For more information, write U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, - Federal Duck Stamp Office, 1849 C Street, NW, Washington, DC 20240. - - -_All photos copyright Maslowski Photo, Inc. except as noted._ - - -Additional Resources - - - _Books_ - - A large variety of books are available on attracting, housing, - feeding, and gardening for birds. Check your local library, book - store, or the Internet, for a selection of books on attracting birds - to your yard. - - - _Web Sites_ - - There are many good on-line resources for bird enthusiasts. Below are - a few useful web sites that discuss some of the more popular backyard - birds; general information on bird feeding, housing, and gardening for - birds; ways to keep birds safe from predators; and opportunities for - you to become citizen scientists just by watching birds at your - feeder. - - _WildBirds.com_—feeding and attracting - http://www.wildbirds.com - - _Birding/Wild Birds_—backyard birds, birdhouses and feeders - http://www.birding.about.com/hobbies/birding - - _Backyard Wildlife Habitats_—National Wildlife Federation - http://www.nwf.org/habitats - - _Cats Indoors_—American Birding Conservancy - http://www.abcbirds.org/cats/catsindoors.htm - - _North American Bluebird Society_ - http://www.nabluebirdsociety.org - - _Purple Martin Conservation Association_ - http://www.purplemartin.org - - _BirdSource_—FeederWatch and Classroom FeederWatch - http://birdsource.org - - _National Bird-Feeding Society_ - http://www.birdfeeding.org/ - - _Stokes Birds at Home/Birding_—feeding, housing, and gardening - http://www.stokesbirdsathome.com/birding - - - _Disclaimer_ - - _The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service intends no endorsement and cannot - guarantee the accuracy of information found on these web sites._ - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - -—Silently corrected a few typos. - -—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - -—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - -—Website references from the printed book may not be current. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of For the Birds, by Anonymous - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FOR THE BIRDS *** - -***** This file should be named 61796-0.txt or 61796-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/1/7/9/61796/ - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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