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diff --git a/59485-0.txt b/59485-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..86c6c0e --- /dev/null +++ b/59485-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1228 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 59485 *** + + + + + + + + + + + + + + WINTERING BEES IN CELLARS + + + E. F. PHILLIPS, Apiculturist + + and + + GEORGE S. DEMUTH, Apicultural Assistant + + Bureau of Entomology + + + [Illustration] + + + + + FARMERS' BULLETIN 1014 UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE + + + + Contribution from the Bureau of Entomology + + L. O. HOWARD. Chief + + + + Washington, D. C. September, 1918 + + + +Show this bulletin to a neighbor. Additional copies may be obtained +free from the Division of Publications, United States Department of +Agriculture + +WASHINGTON GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1918 + + +RESULTS from wintering bees in a cellar are excellent when conditions +in the cellar are such as to keep the bees from wearing themselves +out by excessive activity. Cellar wintering is practicable where the +average outdoor temperature during the winter months is as low as 25° +F. A map is given (p. 3) so that the beekeeper may know whether this +method is advisable in his locality. + +The cellar should be arranged so that the ceiling is below the frost +line, and so that the ceiling and side walls are thoroughly protected +at all points. The cellar should be kept so that the lowest temperature +within the hives is at least 52° F. At this temperature there will be +little need of special ventilating arrangements. There should be no +condensation of moisture within the hives, and the cellar should be +well drained. + +Bees should be put into the cellar after a good flight in late +November, or earlier in the more northern localities. They should be +removed when fresh pollen and nectar are available, usually about the +last of March. + +Soon after the hives are placed on their summer stands, each colony +should be given additional stores and room for the development of a +large quantity of brood. + +It is important that none of the factors of good wintering be omitted. +Several tests are given in this bulletin so that the beekeeper may +determine whether his cellar is a satisfactory place for wintering +bees. + + + + +WINTERING BEES IN CELLARS. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + Page. + + Cellar wintering versus outdoor wintering 3 + + Where is cellar wintering advisable 4 + + Essentials to success 5 + + Necessity of strong colonies in the fall 5 + + Winter stores 6 + + Arrangement of the apiary 7 + + The bee cellar 7 + + Putting the bees into the cellar 12 + + Maintenance of the cellar during the winter 13 + + Removal of the bees from the cellar 17 + + Providing breeding room and stores in the spring 19 + + Measures of success in cellar wintering 20 + + + + +CELLAR WINTERING VERSUS OUTDOOR WINTERING. + + +Bees in the more northern parts of the United States for many years +have been placed by some of the best beekeepers in cellars or special +repositories during the coldest parts of the winter. There has been a +growing feeling, however, that if outdoor wintering is practicable, in +most cases it gives better results, and there has been a decided change +from cellar wintering to outdoor wintering within the past decade. The +difficulty seems to be that the methods of cellar wintering practiced +have not been satisfactory and it seems probable that if as much +attention had been given, to the perfection of the methods of cellar +wintering as has been given to an improvement of the methods of outdoor +wintering, there would not have been as great a change to the outdoor +methods as has taken place. + +[Illustration: Fig. 1.--Map of the United States showing regions where +cellar wintering is practicable, based on the average temperature of +January. From data furnished by the United States Weather Bureau.] + +The placing of bees in a cellar is only another way of putting +insulation about the hives, the only difference being that in the +cellar all of the hives are protected alike and the protection is +placed about the apiary instead of around hives in groups or singly. +It follows that the principles which apply to successful outdoor +wintering apply equally to the protection of the bees in the cellar. +It is urged, therefore, that before attempting to winter bees in the +cellar, the beekeeper study the bulletins[1] of the department in which +these principles are set forth. + +[1] Department Bulletin 93, The Temperature of the Honeybee Cluster In +Winter. Farmers' Bulletin 695, Outdoor Wintering of Bees. + + + + +WHERE IS CELLAR WINTERING ADVISABLE? + + +Before deciding whether or not the bees are to be wintered in a cellar, +several factors should be considered, the chief of these being (1) the +winter climate, (2) the kind of winter stores, and (3) the location of +the apiary as regards wind protection. + + +WINTER CLIMATE. + +In any locality where the average temperature of the winter months +falls below 25° F. (zone 1) cellar wintering may be practiced with +profit, and in localities where the average temperature of these +months falls as low as 15° F. (zone 2) cellar wintering is much to +be preferred. Figure 1 shows the boundaries of these zones for the +United States for the month of January, which may be taken as typical +of the winter months. It will be noted that these zones do not follow +parallels of latitude. As was pointed out in the bulletin of the +department on outdoor wintering,[2] it is quite possible to protect +bees in zone 1 sufficiently to winter them outdoors, but if a proper +cellar is provided, if conditions within the cellar are correct, and if +the stores are good and the colonies are strong, just as good results +may be obtained from cellar wintering. + +[2] Farmers' Bulletin 1012, Preparation of Bees for Outdoor Wintering. + +In zone 1 the average temperature of the outside air during the mouth +of January is 25° F., or lower in the more northern parts of the zone. +This means that in colonies wintered outdoors the bees are compelled +to overcome this degree of cold at all times during the coldest part +of the winter. If they are so well packed that the heat which they +generate is lost slowly, they are able to generate sufficient heat to +make the interior of the hive warm enough to allow them to break their +cluster as is necessary. In zone 2, however, the bees will be compelled +to generate heat sufficient to overcome the more severe cold of that +zone, and this calls for the expenditure by the bees of so much more +food and vitality that it is more economical to put them in a good +cellar during the months of the most severe cold, and cellar wintering +is therefore preferable. + + +CHARACTER OF WINTER STORES. + +In localities where the stores for the bees gathered during the latter +part of the summer are not of the first quality, it is safer to winter +the bees outdoors. This is a large factor in the placing of the zones +shown in figure 1, for it is quite common in the region south of zone 1 +for the full honey to be of inferior quality. It is extremely fortunate +that in both of the zones shown the stores available in winter are +usually of the finest quality. As will be shown later, it is highly +important that the beekeeper pay special attention to the character of +the stores in the hive at the beginning of the winter, and if they are +not as good as they should be, this deficiency should be corrected. + + +LOCATION AS REGARDS WIND PROTECTION. + +In zone 1, if the apiary is so badly located that the winter winds are +severe, the beekeeper will do well to winter in a cellar, although, +as will be shown later, it is not best to choose such a site for the +apiary even during the rest of the year. + + + + +ESSENTIALS TO SUCCESS. + + +As in the case of outdoor wintering, the essentials to success in +caring for a normal colony of bees from the end of one season's +honey-flow to the beginning of the next lie in providing three things +in abundance: (1) Stores of good quality, (2) protection from wind +and cold, and (3) room for the rearing of brood at appropriate times. +These factors must not be lacking at the right times, and if any one +is omitted it may prevent the bees from gathering the crop of the +following season. These three factors do not apply equally throughout +the period of relative inactivity, but as certainly as any one of them +is decreased, just so certainly will the crop of the following year be +reduced. + +In practicing cellar wintering it is unnecessary to leave so much honey +with the bees during the time that they are in the cellar, and it is +not necessary during that period to leave room for the rearing of +brood. During the coldest part of the winter the bees need especially +protection from cold and wind, although enough good stores must be in +the hive to keep them through that period in good condition. Probably +a large part of the failure of beekeepers in practicing cellar +wintering comes from the fact that before and after the bees are in +the cellar the important factors of stores and breeding room have not +been adequately supplied. Before the bees are put into the cellar they +must have room for breeding and stores in abundance, and after they +are taken out these two factors must be present in greatly increased +abundance. + + + + +NECESSITY OF STRONG COLONIES IN THE FALL. + + +As in the case of wintering outdoors, it is wasteful to attempt to +winter weak colonies. It is difficult to set standards of colony +strength at this season, but it is unwise to attempt to winter +colonies that are not strong enough to have brood sufficient to fill +three or four Langstroth frames two months before the first killing +frost. If the colonies in the apiary are not of the proper strength, +it is wise to unite until the proper strength is reached. Any uniting +should be done before the close of brood-rearing. + +It is of the greatest importance that every colony have a good queen in +order that brood-rearing may continue in the fall and may then again +proceed rapidly in the spring. Usually it is best to requeen at least +every two years, but if good wintering is practiced the colonies will +come out of winter quarters so strong and will build up so rapidly +in the spring that the queens will soon wear out, making it safer to +requeen every year. To get the best results from requeening, all young +queens should be introduced so that they begin to lay about two months +before the first killing frost. + + + + +WINTER STORES. + + +The stores given to the bees from the end of one season to the +beginning of the next are of the first importance. It is necessary to +consider both the quality and the quantity of these stores. + + +QUALITY OF STORES. + +As has been stated, it is fortunate that in both of the zones where +cellar wintering is or might be practiced the natural stores usually +are good. Honeys such as those from white and alsike clovers, sweet +clover, alfalfa, wild raspberry, buckwheat, and willowherb are fine +stores for winter, while honeys from basswood, heartsease (smart-weed), +asters, goldenrod, and most of the other fall flowers are less +desirable. It is especially important during the period when the +bees are in the cellar that the stores shall be of the very finest +quality, and it is therefore the practice of many good beekeepers to +feed each colony 5 pounds or more of sirup made of granulated sugar +Into in the fall, after all brood-rearing has ceased. This insures that +the bees will have for their use, during the period of confinement in +the cellar, stores which will not bring about the condition known as +dysentery. In general it may be stated that honeys from mixed sources +and dark honeys, except buckwheat, are to be avoided. Honeydew honeys +are highly injurious and in all cases where such stores are present +granulated sugar sirup should be fed. + + +QUANTITY OF STORES. + +From the end of one honey season to the beginning of the next a good +colony of bees will need fully 45 pounds of honey. When the bees are +wintered in the cellar, it is usual not to have all of this honey in +the one hive body in which they are wintered. It is a good practice +to have at least 20 pounds within this hive, although 15 pounds will +be safe. It is absolutely imperative, however, that the remainder of +the 45 pounds shall be available to be given to the bees soon after, +they are taken from the cellar. The most common cause of poor colonies +in the spring is poverty, directly due to neglect on the part of the +beekeeper. A good beekeeper sees to it that at no time when brood is +being reared do his bees have less than 15 pounds of stores in the +hive, and the full amount of 45 pounds often will all be used, and is +always needed if the colonies are to come to full strength on time +for the gathering of the full crop. This amount is always augmented +by honey from spring flowers, for 45 pounds of honey is not enough to +bring a colony to full strength in time for the main honey-flow. + + + + +ARRANGEMENT OF THE APIARY. + + +Where bees are wintered in cellars the particular arrangement of the +hives in the apiary is not so important a problem as where they are +wintered on their summer stands, yet there are certain important +considerations in the arrangement of the entire apiary which should be +kept in mind. + + +WIND PROTECTION. + +It is important that a place be chosen where the bees will be protected +from cold winds in the spring after they are taken from the cellar +and again in the fall before they are taken to the cellar. A grove of +trees or an adjacent hill usually offers the best protection, or it +is possible to make an artificial windbreak such as a high fence. A +natural windbreak usually is better, for it is more extensive in most +cases. Too much reliance should not be placed in buildings, for often +they merely divert the wind slightly and may make conditions worse. A +fence made of close boards usually is unsatisfactory, for it causes +whirls. + + +DISTANCE OF THE APIARY FROM THE CELLAR. + +To carry colonies of bees a long distance from the apiary to the cellar +is not an easy task, even though the hives be light at that time of the +year. It is best, therefore, that the apiary be located not more than +50 yards from the cellar, and even this distance is objectionable. If a +special cellar is built for the bees, the apiary should be so located +that the cellar may be built immediately adjacent. If the bees are to +be wintered in the cellar under the beekeeper's residence, the apiary +should be located as near as possible to the cellar door. + + + + +THE BEE CELLAR. + + +In order that the beekeeper may have reason to expect success in cellar +wintering, it is imperative that he give careful consideration to +the construction of the bee cellar. There has been a tendency among +beekeepers greatly to overestimate the value of their own cellars, and +especially to assume that the conditions which they are able to get in +their cellars are exactly correct. + + +CELLAR UNDER THE RESIDENCE. + +Some of the best bee cellars are those under the residences of +beekeepers, and in general such a cellar is better than one built +especially for cellar wintering. This is because the temperature of +such a cellar usually is quite a little higher than that in a specially +constructed repository. The best results in cellar wintering have been +obtained in cellars under residences which are heated by furnaces, thus +having a higher cellar temperature. In such a cellar provision must +be made for partitioning off a space where the bees will be located +so that there is no light or other disturbing factor during the time +of their confinement. Since a cellar temperature about 50° F. is +desirable, it is well to choose a part of the cellar through which some +of the furnace pipes run, and if this results in too high a temperature +these pipes may be insulated somewhat. It is best to choose a part of +the cellar where there are no windows and where the outside walls are +thoroughly protected to the top, either by a bank of soil or in some +other fashion. This will result in a more equable temperature than +is possible in a cellar exposed to sudden changes of temperature on +the outside walls, for even a stone wall 18 inches thick will allow a +considerable amount of heat to escape. In a cellar under a residence +there will be abundant ventilation without any special provision +being made for this. A test of the value of such a cellar is the even +temperature which may be obtained, as will be discussed later. + + +SPECIAL WINTER REPOSITORY. + +If properly constructed and protected, a special cellar or cave for the +bees gives the best possible results in wintering, yet few such cellars +have been built, for the reason that most beekeepers have omitted some +vitally important factors. The usual fault is in having too great a +variation in temperature and in giving excessive ventilation, which in +turn causes fluctuations in temperature. + + +SOIL AND CONTOUR OF THE SURFACE OF THE GROUND. + +To provide good drainage and adequate ventilation for the bee cellar +without making any special ventilators, it is desirable to build it in +a sandy hillside. If it is possible to choose a place for the cellar +where the snow drifts deeply, this will afford a valuable addition +to the insulation of the cellar. If the cellar is on level ground, +drifting of snow may be increased by the proper building of open +fences, such as are used to prevent drifting over railway tracks. + +If it is impossible to utilize a sandy hillside, it will be necessary +to build walls and a floor for the cellar and to make adequate +provision for the drainage of the cellar. The hillside cellar has, the +great advantage of having easy drainage. + + +CAPACITY OF THE CELLAR. + +If the bees are kept in apiaries of perhaps 100 colonies and if a +cellar is built for each apiary, then it is possible to build a cellar +of just the right capacity. If a central cellar is built for all the +apiaries and the bees in outapiaries are brought into the home apiary +for winter, the beekeeper will wish to build the cellar sufficiently +large for future expansion of his business, and beekeepers are finding +out, that they can keep many more colonies of bees than they formerly +thought possible. Perhaps the better plan is to have a cellar in each +apiary. + +[Illustration: Fig. 2.--Interior of bee cellar with hives In piles of +four. Insulation above the ceiling is not shown.] + +The usual practice is to allow 1-1/2 to 2 square feet of floor surface +for each colony, on the assumption that the colonies will be placed in +piles of four (fig. 2). It is not desirable to pile hives higher than +this, if the cellar roof is 6-1/2 feet high in the clear, and it is +difficult to lift heavy hives any higher than the number specified. For +an apiary of 100 colonies, it will be found desirable to have a cellar +10 feet wide and from 15 to 20 feet long, clear of the inner walls. If +one is just getting a start in beekeeping he should build his cellar on +the assumption that later he will increase the number of his colonies, +and should allow for this, for it is better to have the cellar too +large than too small. + + +WALLS AND FLOOR. + +It has been claimed by many beekeepers that concrete walls and floor +are not desirable, yet if the cellar is properly insulated there is no +better material. If the cellar is built in a hillside of sandy soil, +wooden sides will be satisfactory and no floor other than the soil need +be provided. In such soil the drainage is good and the only function +of the side walls is to hold the sides up to prevent caving in. In a +moist soil a concrete floor and walls should be built, and the concrete +should be waterproof. Under no circumstances should any of the side +walls below the ceiling be exposed above ground. + +[Illustration: Fig. 3.--Diagram of bee cellar. Clearance 6-1/2 feet, +ceiling 2-1/2 feet below ground level, packed with about 11 feet of +sawdust.] + + +ROOF. + +The ceiling of the cellar should be below ground level sufficiently to +bring it below the level of frost. For the regions where bees should be +wintered in cellars this usually will be at least 2-1/2 feet below the +level of the ground (fig. 3). The ceiling should be 6-1/2 feet above +the floor, just sufficiently high to permit a tall man to work with +comfort. If the ceiling is higher it will result usually in too low a +temperature at the floor. The ceiling then should be covered completely +on top with some insulating material, such as sawdust, and if sawdust +is used it should be piled on about 1-1/2 feet thick. Unless about this +amount of protection is given on the ceiling it will be impossible to +get the right cellar temperature during the coldest part of the winter. +If the cellar is built in a sandy soil, it is possible to use the soil +as a cover for the ceiling, in which event about 3 feet of soil should +be placed over the inner roof of the cellar. The entire insulating +material, of whatever kind used, should then be protected from rain +and snow by having a roof over it. This roof should project at least +2 feet, preferably more, beyond the outside of the cellar wall, and +provision should be made for currying off the water from the roof. + +In case the beekeeper desires to build an apiary house over the bee, +cellar, as is done frequently, he must provide a floor for this house +at least at ground level, and he can not successfully use the ceiling +of the cellar as the floor of the upper house. There is no objection to +building a house above the cellar if adequate protection is given the +cellar, but it must not be assumed that the house offers any material +insulation to the cellar, for in most cases these houses are not heated +in the winter. The relation of the house floor to the ceiling of the +cellar is shown in figure 3. + + +ENTRANCE TO THE CELLAR. + +Frequently the entrance is a weak spot in the insulation of the cellar, +and it is useless to protect the roof and sides unless care is used in +the building of the entrance. If the entrance is at the end or one side +of the cellar, it will be necessary to build a sort of vestibule with +double doors so that the heat of the cellar will not be lost rapidly. +The heavier and thicker these doors, the better for the bees. + +The best type of vestibule is a long, narrow passage lending into the +hillside, and it should be closed by doors at both the inside and +outside ends. If possible the vestibule should be built and protected +so that the temperature within the vestibule will never fall below +freezing. In the building of the vestibule, also, the beekeeper should +consider the ease with which the bees may be carried in and out of the +cellar. + + +DRAINAGE. + +As has been mentioned previously, the cellar must be well drained, +either by natural or by artificial means. No stagnant water should be +allowed to remain in the cellar, although at the higher temperatures +of the best cellars this does less harm than it does in cellars that +are too cold. Some beekeepers have advocated having a stream of water +flowing through the cellar, and this will do no harm in warm cellars, +and it may serve to assist somewhat in maintaining an even temperature. + + +VENTILATION. + +One of the most serious faults of bee cellars is in providing for too +much ventilation, resulting in great fluctuations in temperature. In a +cellar which maintains a temperature of 50° F. or more there is little +need for ventilation, for the Was then need little oxygen and only a +small amount of carbon dioxide is given off. Other things being equal, +the colder the cellar, the greater the need of ventilation. If poor +stores are in the hives, the bees will need more ventilation than will +be desirable when good stores are used. In a warm cellar in a sandy +hillside no ventilating shaft need be built. + +In any event, one shaft 6 inches square running through the ceiling of +the cellar to the outside will be sufficient for any cellar that is fit +for the wintering of bees. During the coldest part of the winter the +interchange of air between the inside of the cellar and the outside +will be materially increased by the great difference in temperature and +this one ventilator may be entirely or nearly closed. During the milder +weather of the fall and spring this amount of ventilation will do no +harm. The top of the ventilating shaft, which should extend at least +6 feet above the outer roof, may be painted black in order to induce +greater movement of air when the sun shines. The shaft should be so +arranged that it does not admit light to the cellar. + + + + +PUTTING THE BEES INTO THE CELLAR. + + +Before the bees are carried into the cellar it should be well aired +and cleaned, and it will be well to keep it open for several days +beforehand. No debris or refuse should be left in the cellar when the +bees are taken in. + + +TIME. + +For zone 1 (fig. 1) it is usually desirable to wait until about the +middle of November before putting the bees into winter quarters. If one +could know exactly when the bees would have the last opportunity for a +cleansing flight, they would be put into the cellar just after that, +but we can not always be sure that there will be suitable weather for +such flight in late November, and there is, therefore, considerable +doubt every year as to just the right time to put the bees away. +Frequently it happens that the weather is suitable for a flight about +November 20, and it is best to wait until then before attempting to put +the bees in the cellar. The flight of only a few bees from the hive +should not be construed as a cleansing flight. In this connection it is +highly desirable that the beekeeper keep a careful watch of the weather +maps daily, so that he may know at all times about what weather may be +expected for a few days in advance. For the beekeeper's purpose the +daily forecasts published in newspapers are scarcely enough; and if no +daily weather maps are convenient near by, it will repay the beekeeper +well to subscribe for them. They are valuable not only at the time of +putting the bees into the cellar but at many other times of the year. + +Soon after a period when the barometric pressure has been low, bringing +high temperatures suitable for flights (at least 60° F.), there usually +will be a period when the barometric pressure is high, bringing lower, +temperatures. At the shifting from low to high barometric pressure +there is frequently a time when it is cloudy. This is a fine time to +put the bees into the cellar. These periods of high and low barometric +pressure follow each other with rather marked regularity in the +fall, and it is rather safe to assume that just at the end of the +well-defined low pressure which next follows after November 15 is the +best time to put the bees into the cellar. It is better to put the +bees in the cellar a week or so before the last opportunity for flight +than to put them in after exposure to cold which is not followed by a +cleansing flight. + +For zone 2 it will be desirable to put the bees away a little earlier, +although the oncoming of winter is not so much earlier in the North as +one might imagine. + + +HOW TO CARRY THE BEES. + +When one person carries the bees into the cellar the best method is to +stand at the back of the hive and grasp the bottom of the hive with +both hands. The hive is then lifted and the cover brought up against +the chest firmly, permitting the operator to walk without interference +and with a minimum of stooping. If there are cleats on the ends of the +hive bodies, those may be rested on the forearms, although with this +method there is some danger that the bottoms will drop off unless they +are stapled. + +If the temperature is sufficiently low (slightly above freezing), +there will be no need of closing the entrances when the bees are being +carried in. Every care should be taken not to jar the hives more than +is absolutely necessary from the time that they are lifted until they +are in their final place in the cellar. + +If more than one person is engaged in carrying in the hives, the hives +may be placed carefully on carriers with handles, and two or more of +them may be carried at one time. + + +HOW TO STACK THE HIVES. + +The bottom hive in a pile should rest on an empty hive body or some +other such support of about that size (figs. 2 and 3). The hives then +should be placed one on top of the other until they are four high. +It is best by far to put each pile of four hives about 6 inches from +adjacent piles, so that in handling the hives on one pile there is no +disturbance of bees in other piles. Allowance is made for this space +between the piles of hives in the estimate of the floor space needed +for each colony (p. 9). + + + + +MAINTENANCE OF THE CELLAR DURING THE WINTER. + + +If the cellar is properly constructed it will need little if any +care during the time that the bees are inside. It is only the poor +bee cellar which requires constant attention to prevent changes in +temperature. + + +TEMPERATURE OF THE CELLAR. + +There has been much discussion as to the best temperature of the cellar +during the winter. Commonly it is stated that a temperature of 40° to +45° F. is best, but this is colder than usually is best for the finest +results. A temperature below 40° F. is invariably bad for the bees, and +a cellar in which the temperature goes as low as freezing is not a fit +place for bees. + +It has been found by the authors that bees do the least amount of work +when the temperature of the air immediately surrounding them (inside +the hive) stands at 57° F. This is, therefore, the temperature which +the beekeeper should bear in mind, rather than to lay too much stress +on the temperature of the cellar itself. The place for a thermometer +in the bee cellar is inside the entrance of a good colony where it may +be read easily by simply pulling it out. A chemical thermometer is +best for this purpose, and it should register 52° F. or more inside +the hive entrance. In order to have the right temperature within the +hive it usually will be best to have the temperature of the cellar at +about 50° F. or slightly higher. As will be shown later, however, it is +quite possible to have the right temperature within the hive when the +temperature of the cellar is a few degrees lower than that stated. + +If the beekeeper will pay attention to the temperature of the interior +of the hive he will find that in colder cellars it is desirable to give +the hives some insulation to conserve the heat generated by the bees +in much the same way that this heat is conserved when bees are packed +outdoors, although the amount of protection will be much less. In a +cellar where the temperature falls to 45° F. it will be found best +to have the covers of the hives sealed on tightly and the entrances +reduced to 3/8 inch by 2 inches. In a cellar with a temperature of 50° +F. or more the entrances may be left open the full width of the hive. +If there is a tendency for the temperature to fall to 45° F. or less, +the tops of the hives may be protected by cushions of chaff or other +materials placed at least on the top of the uppermost hives, for each +of the lower three hives is protected somewhat by the one above it. + +It will be impossible to maintain the temperatures recommended unless +the cellar is built in the way described, or in some other way by which +the cellar is equally well insulated. It is impossible to maintain an +equable and high temperature in a cellar the walls and ceiling of which +are exposed to the outside air. + + +VENTILATION OF THE CELLAR. + +If the proper temperature is maintained in the cellar there will be +little need of ventilation, for in almost all cases there will be +sufficient interchange of air to keep the bees in good condition. +If the temperature is as low as 45° F., a little ventilation will be +needed, although most of the bee cellars that have been built have +had too much ventilation, and as a result it has been impossible +to maintain a correct temperature within them. In cold weather the +tendency toward an interchange of air is greatest, and at such times +the ventilators may be entirely closed. In mild weather it makes no +difference if large ventilators are open, unless this results in too +great a rise in temperature. + +In a well-insulated cellar it should not be necessary to ventilate at +night at the approach of spring to cool the air inside, for the bees +will not get so warm from their own activity as will bees in a cellar +that is or has been too cold. The greatest problem in most cellars is +to maintain the right temperature during the spring just before the +bees are to be removed. The trouble is that in most cellars--those +which are too cold in winter--the bees generate heat constantly +during the winter and as a result have an accumulation of feces in +the intestines, resulting in a condition known as dysentery. For this +reason they become excited easily, and beekeepers have thought it +necessary to ventilate the cellar at night freely in order to remedy +this trouble. The proper method, of course, is to prevent it by keeping +the temperature higher during the winter, but if the temperature has +fallen too low during the winter ventilation at night seems to help +somewhat. It is safe, however, to say that a cellar in which this +happens is not satisfactory as a place to keep bees during the winter, +and steps should be taken to insulate it more completely before bees +are put into it again. If the bees are wintering on stores that are +not of the best quality the tendency to accumulate feces will be far +greater, even with the right temperatures inside the hives, and if +there is dysentery it may be relieved somewhat by ventilation, although +this is simply reducing a symptom and is not removing the cause of the +trouble. + + +VENTILATION OF THE HIVE. + +Since bees in a good cellar require little ventilation, practically no +attention need be paid to this subject if the cellar has been built in +the way advised. If the temperature of the cellar tends to fall too +low, it is advisable to reduce the entrances of the hives, for with a +greater difference between the temperatures within and outside the hive +the tendency for interchange of air will be correspondingly greater. In +any cellar fit for the wintering of bees it will be neither necessary +nor desirable to ventilate the hives at the top, as sometimes has been +recommended. + +The ventilation of the hive within the cellar is not so much for the +elimination of foul air as for the escape of moisture, and therefore +the amount of ventilation needed for the hive depends upon the +humidity of the air within the cellar. If the temperature of the cellar +is kept high enough there will be no condensation of moisture within +the hive, and if water is ever observed on the covers of the hives +it is conclusive proof that the cellar is too cold for the bees. In +a cellar so cold that condensed moisture shows on the bottoms of the +hives stops should be taken at once to raise the temperature. + +Various attempts have been made in the past to provide for the cellar +fresh air which has been warmed somewhat before entry. The most common +method is to have the air pass through tiles under ground for perhaps +100 feet before it enters the cellar. In general, it may be said that +none of these devices has been worth the trouble and expense involved +and none of them has served the purpose for which it was intended. It +has been proposed also to ventilate the bee cellar by wind pressure. +The devices which have been made for such ventilation will function +only when there is considerable wind and then only when the wind is in +the right quarter; therefore they are not at all to be recommended. By +far the best plan is simply to build the bee cellar correctly, for, +then little ventilation will be needed. + + +CLEANING THE CELLAR. + +In even the best of cellars there will be some dead bees on the +floor, and those may be cleaned up once or twice during the winter. +In a cellar with proper temperature there will be few dead bees until +after the middle of the winter, but the death rate increases toward the +close of the winter. If the cellar is cleaned, it should be done with +as little disturbance as possible. No bright light should be admitted +at this time, although a moderate amount seems to do little harm until +after the bees have an accumulation of feces in the intestines. + + +REMOVING THE BEES FOR FLIGHT DURING THE WINTER. + +Some beekeepers have advocated removing the colonies toward the end +of the winter for a flight on some warm day and then replacing them, +on the supposition that the flight would enable the bees to stand a +longer period of confinement. It is found, however, that if bees are +disturbed, as by carrying them out, they begin brood-rearing almost +invariably, and this does more harm than the flight does good. + + +DISTURBANCE DURING THE WINTER. + +Work in or about the bee cellar while the bees are confined should +be done with the least possible disturbance of the bees, for often a +little handling or jarring of the hive causes sufficient excitement +to increase the temperature of the cluster to the point where +brood-rearing begins. This is true especially in late winter. It is +by far the wisest plan, therefore, to stay out of the cellar during +the winter, except on the few occasions when a little work, such as +cleaning out, makes a visit seem needed. Care should be taken not to +jar the hives or to allow light to strike the entrance. Of course, if +bees are being wintered in a cellar which has the right temperature, a +little disturbance does little or no harm, but there is no reason why +bees should be disturbed in winter and the beekeeper should not run +any risk of starting brood-rearing. + + + + +REMOVAL OF THE BEES FROM THE CELLAR. + + +TIME. + +The old rule of many beekeepers is to take the bees from the cellar +when the soft maples are in bloom. This is an excellent rule in +localities where there are trees of this species. In general, in zone 1 +the right time to take the bees out of the cellar is about the time of +the spring equinox (March 21). + +In choosing a time for the removal of the bees, the beekeeper again +should watch the weather maps closely. He should choose a time +when a high-pressure area is just passing and at the approach of +a well-defined low-pressure area. At such a time the weather will +be cool, not permitting the bees to fly, but at the time of the +low-pressure area the weather will become warmer, allowing the good +flights, which are then badly needed. + +If the bees are taken out at a time when they can fly at once--and some +beekeepers prefer this--they should be taken out in the early morning, +so that they can have a good flight before night. Bees should not be +taken from the cellar at a time when they can fly only a little, but +they should either be taken out when they can not fly at all or at a +time when they can fly freely almost at once. Bees in good condition +rarely fly freely unless the outside temperature is as high as 60° F. + + +PREVENTION OF DRIFTING. + +When the bees are taken from the cellar and placed on their summer +positions they sometimes tend to leave the weaker, colonies and on +their return to collect in those with greater populations. This is +known as "drifting." In general, the bees tend to drift toward the +windward side of the apiary. Most frequently they join the hives that +were first set out and which have established a strong flight by the +time the neighboring colonies have first taken wing. The tendencies, +therefore, are to join flying colonies, stronger colonies, and the +end colonies in a row. The condition of the bees plays a large part +in drifting, for if the bees are badly in need of a flight because of +dysentery they go at once into the air without properly marking the +location of their hive, and therefore are not able to find it when they +return. + +To prevent drifting, it is best to set the bees out when it is too cold +for them to fly, so that as the weather warms, permitting flight, this +will take place more naturally. It is also well to reduce the entrances +so that as the bees leave the hive their tendency to orient themselves +will be greater. It is claimed by some beekeepers that if the cellar +is well aired the night before the bees are to be removed, they will +be in better condition and will drift less, but it is not clear what +difference this can make unless the clusters are made tighter because +of lower temperatures. + +Beekeepers have discussed the question whether, after removal, the bees +should be placed on the same stands occupied by them the fall before. +If the bees could remember their old location so that they would return +to it, even after an interval of four months, it would be necessary, +or at least desirable, to place each colony on the same stand which it +occupied previously. There is no evidence, however, that the memory +of the bees is so good, and it is usually the ease that the bees of a +colony will lose the memory of location within a week; therefore no +attention need be paid to this feature. + + +PROTECTION OF THE HIVES IN THE SPRING. + +The greatest objection to wintering bees in cellars is that after they +are removed they are exposed to low temperatures. The ideal practice +would be to pack the bees after taking them out in much the same way +that bees are packed for outdoor wintering, but the work involved makes +this impracticable. There can be no doubt that protection at this +time would be beneficial. As has been pointed out, the apiary site +should be one in which the hives are well protected from wind, and it +is advantageous if the apiary grounds slope toward the south in order +that the bees may have the fullest advantage of heat from the sun. If +the bees have been wintered in the cellar in double-walled hives they +will have the advantage of some protection when they are taken from +the cellar. The beekeeper may feel safe in giving the bees all the +protection possible at the time that they are taken from the cellar, +knowing that it is impossible at this time or any other to insulate the +hive too well. + +In deciding whether the hives should be packed in the spring the +beekeeper should be governed largely by the condition of the bees. If +they have wintered well they will be able to stand greater extremes of +temperature in the spring without loss, but if they have been wintered +in a cold cellar they will be greatly injured by cold weather after +they have been set out. Of course, the need of protection is determined +chiefly by the kind of weather prevailing during the first few weeks +after the bees have been taken from the cellar. In some seasons the +weather is so fine that the bees would be little benefited by packing +or other protection, but the beekeeper can not influence the weather, +and the only safe plan is so to place the bees that if the weather +does turn cold they will still be safe. Here, as everywhere else in +beekeeping, it pays to be on the safe side, so far as protecting the +bees is concerned. + + + + +PROVIDING BREEDING ROOM AND STORES IN THE SPRING. + + +After the main honey-flow is past it is usually desirable that each +colony be kept in two hive bodies of full depth. Most producers of +extracted honey do this, but too many producers of comb-honey are not +adequately supplied with hive bodies and do not give the second body. +These two hive bodies should be left with the bees at least until +brood-rearing ceases, and at this time one of them should be removed if +the bees are to be wintered in the cellar. As has been pointed out in +other bulletins of the department, if the bees are wintered outdoors +they will do better in the two hive bodies throughout the winter. + +In the upper hive body will be found a considerable amount of the +honey to be used by the bees up to the time of the next honey-flow. +Usually there will be enough in the lower hive body for the bees while +they are in the cellar, especially where comb-honey is produced, but +if the lower hive body is not adequately supplied with winter stores +(perhaps 15 to 20 pounds) the beekeeper should move some of the stores. +It is also a good practice to winter the bees in the cellar in a hive +containing the full stores, except that this makes it necessary to +carry in hives weighing perhaps 80 pounds. + +After the second hive bodies have been removed, if they contain honey +they should be stored in a warm, dry place, where the honey will not +be injured. If it is possible to place such hive bodies in the furnace +room of the residence, this will be found to be ideal. If no such +place is available, the beekeeper may keep these in a dry cellar or +other location where the honey will not be exposed to rapid changes +in temperature. For this purpose a place suitable for the storage of +comb-honey is desirable. It should be pointed out that the honey in +these combs should not be extracted. It will be needed for the building +up of the colonies the next spring, and to remove it is simply to +reduce the crop of the next season. + +Some time within two weeks after the bees have been taken from the +cellar, depending on the weather, each colony should be provided with +its second hive body. Preferably, this should be placed underneath the +hive body in which the bees were wintered in order that the propolis +at the top of the hive may not be broken. At this time an examination +of the colonies may be made from below to see whether any of them +are queenless or require immediate attention for other reasons, but +at this season there is little that the beekeeper can do that will +help the bees other than to provide them with room for the brood and +with adequate supplies of stores. Queens should not be clipped at +this time, and usually not until settled weather has arrived. Further +spring manipulation is not necessary and the bees are better off if the +beekeeper lets them alone. + +If the bees have been requeened at the proper time and if the total +amount of stores is given as indicated, it will not be worth while +to go through the bees to look for queenless colonies. The beekeeper +should see to it that at least 45 pounds of honey are provided for +each colony from the time of the last honey-flow in the fall to the +beginning of the first main honey-flow of the following season. If this +is not given in full, the beekeeper may be sure that the crop of the +following year will be reduced. This amount of honey left for the use +of the bees is a better investment for the beekeeper than money in the +bank. + +It should be pointed out that the giving of a second hive body in the +spring is not simply a means of supplying additional stores, but more +than one hive body will be needed for the development of the brood. A +single 10-frame Langstroth hive is not large enough for the development +of a good colony of bees, which, before the beginning of the main honey +flow, should have brood to fill at least 12 frames. + +As was stated earlier in this bulletin, a colony of bees from one +season to the next needs three things in abundance--room for the +development of the brood, stores of good quality, and protection from +wind and cold. In cellar wintering the protection is given by putting +the bees in the cellar; the room and stores must be supplied later or +the population of the colony will be reduced at the critical time of +the honey-flow. If the early sources of honey are abundant, the amount +of honey advised will not be consumed. The wise beekeeper, however, +does not gamble on the early honey-flows, but invests this honey as +life insurance for his bees. + + + + +MEASURES OF SUCCESS IN CELLAR WINTERING. + + +It is often difficult for the beekeeper to know whether his bee +cellar is giving the best results, for he may not have been able to +determine from reading or the observation of other cellars whether it +is satisfactory. The writers, therefore, have attempted below to give +a few measures which the beekeeper may apply to his apiary and his +cellar, so that he may be able to decide whether his methods of cellar +wintering should be improved. + +(1) During the winter a thermometer inserted in the entrance of the +hive should show a temperature of at least 52° F. + +(2) There should never be any condensed moisture on the covers of the +hives, and certainly never any on the bottoms. + +(3) While, the cellar should be kept dark at all times, if a candle +is held at the entrance of a hive at the end of January it should be +several seconds before any of the bees break cluster. Frequently the +cellar doors may be opened in March without disturbing the bees. + +(4) There should never be many dead bees on the bottom of the hives. +The live bees should be able to push them out as they die during the +winter. The bees thus carried out will be found on the cellar floor +just below the entrances. If there are bees all over the floor, it +shows that these bees have flown from the hives--an indication of poor +wintering. + +(5) The bees should be quiet during the late winter. Noise at this time +indicates that the bees are disturbed by an accumulation of feces, +caused by low temperatures or poor food. + +(6) If the bees were in good condition in the fall and have been +wintered well, the loss during the winter will never be more than +one-sixth of the total population of the hive. Such a loss is +excessive, however, and in a well-wintered colony it may be as low as +a hundred bees. This probably depends to a large extent on the age of +the bees which go into winter, and if the temperature is right and the +stores good there will be almost no loss of vigorous bees. + +(7) The bees should not leave the hive while they are being carried +from the cellar. If they do, it indicates that they are excited by an +accumulation of feces. + +(8) Before removal from the cellar there should be no spotting of the +hives from dysentery. There may be a little spotting after the bees +have had a free flight outside, but if this is small in amount it does +not indicate a serious condition. + +(9) When the bees are taken from the cellar there should be no moldy +combs, for the cellar at the right temperature will be too dry for the +growth of molds. + +(10) There should be no brood when the colonies are taken from the +cellar. Brood-rearing in the cellar is proof that the cellar is too +cold or that the food used by the bees is inferior. + +(11) Enough brood should be in each colony at the opening of the main +honey-flow to fill completely 12 Langstroth frames. + +(12) The population of the hive should not decrease appreciably after +the bees are removed from the cellar. Such a condition, known as spring +dwindling, is an indication of poor wintering. For three weeks after +the hives are set out no new bees will be emerging, but the loss of +bees during this time should be so small as not to be noticeable. + + + + +THE PRESIDENT TO THE FARMERS OF AMERICA. + +[Extracts from President Wilson's message to the Farmers' Conference at +Urbana, Ill., January 31, 1918.] + + +The forces that fight for freedom, the freedom of men all over the +world as well as our own, depend upon us in an extraordinary and +unexpected degree for sustenance, for the supply of the materials by +which men are to live and to fight, and it will be our glory when the +war is over that we have supplied those materials and supplied them +abundantly, and it will be all the more glory because in supplying them +we have made our supreme effort and sacrifice. + +In the field of agriculture we have agencies and instrumentalities, +fortunately, such as no other government in the world can show. The +Department of Agriculture is undoubtedly the greatest practical and +scientific agricultural organization in the world. Its total annual +budget of $46,000,000 has been increased during the last four years +more than 72 per cent. It has a staff of 18,000, including a large +number, of highly trained experts, and alongside of it stands the +unique land grant colleges, which are without example elsewhere, and +the 69 State and Federal experiment stations. These colleges and +experiment stations have a total endowment of plant and equipment +of $172,000,000 and an income of more than $35,000,000 with 10,271 +teachers, a resident student body of 125,000, and a vast additional +number receiving instructions at their homes. County agents, joint +officers of the Department of Agriculture and of the colleges, are +everywhere cooperating with the farmers and assisting them. The +number of extension workers under the Smith-Lever Act and under the +recent emergency legislation has grown to 5,500 men and women working +regularly in the various communities and taking to the farmer the +latest scientific and practical information. Alongside these great +public agencies stand the very effective voluntary organizations among +the farmers themselves which are more and more learning the best +methods of cooperation and the best methods of putting to practical +use the assistance derived from governmental sources. The banking +legislation of the last two or three years has given the farmers access +to the great lendable capital of the country, and it has become the +duty both of the men in charge of the Federal Reserve Banking System +and of the Farm Loan Banking System to see to it that the farmers +obtain the credit, both short term and long term, to which they are +entitled not only, but which it is imperatively necessary should +be extended to them if the present tasks of the country are to be +adequately performed. Both by direct purchase of nitrates and by the +establishment of plants to produce nitrates, the Government is doing +its utmost to assist in the problem of fertilization. The Department +of Agriculture and other agencies are actively assisting the farmers to +locate, safeguard, and secure at cost an adequate supply of sound seed. + +The farmers of this country are as efficient as any other farmers +in the world. They do not produce more per acre than the farmers in +Europe. It is not necessary that they should do so. It would perhaps +be bad economy for them to attempt it. But they do produce by two to +three or four times more per man, per unit of labor and capital, than +the farmers of any European country. They are more alert and use more +labor-saving devices than any other farmers in the world. And their +response to the demands of the present emergency has been in every way +remarkable. Last spring their planting exceeded by 12,000,000 acres +the largest planting of any previous year, and the yields from the +crops were record-breaking yields. In the fall of 1917 a wheat acreage +of 42,170,000 was planted, which was 1,000,000 larger than for any +preceding year, 3,000,000 greater than the next largest, and 7,000,000 +greater than the preceding five-year average. + +But I ought to say to you that it is not only necessary that these +achievements should be repeated, but that they should be exceeded. +I know what this advice involves. It involves not only labor but +sacrifice, the painstaking application of every bit of scientific +knowledge and every tested practice that is available. It means the +utmost economy, even to the point where the pinch comes. It means the +kind of concentration and self-sacrifice which is involved in the +field of battle itself, where the object always looms greater than the +individual. And yet the Government will help and help in every way that +it is possible. + +It was farmers from whom came the first shots at Lexington, that set +aflame the Revolution that made America free. I hope and believe that +the farmers of America will willingly and conspicuously stand by to win +this war also. The toil, the intelligence, the energy, the foresight, +the self-sacrifice, and devotion of the farmers of America will, I +believe, bring to a triumphant conclusion this great last war for the +emancipation of men from the control of arbitrary government and the +selfishness of class legislation and control, and then, when the end +has come, we may look each other in the face and be glad that we are +Americans and have had the privilege to play such a part. + + + + +THE BUSINESS OF AGRICULTURE. + +[Extracts from addresses.] + + +The next great factor to enlist for the betterment of Agriculture +and rural life in this Nation is the business man of the town and +the city. He has not always been alive to his obligations. He has +contented himself, in too many instances, with plans to secure profit +in agricultural trade, instead of sympathetically and eagerly planning +constructive assistance. This duty, pressing in peace time, is of the +most urgent and impelling character in this crisis; and I appeal to the +bankers and business men to see that they omit no effort to familiarize +themselves with the agencies serving to aid the farmers and to promote +wise plans to secure the necessary results. + +D. F. Houston, Secretary of Agriculture. + + +In the interest of our national development at all times and in the +interest of war efficiency just now our agriculture must be well +maintained. It should be remembered that the agricultural unit is +a small unit. There are 6,000,000 farms in this country, each an +individual unit. It is to the interest of persons who do not live on +farms, even more than to the interest of those who do live on farms, +that production shall be kept up. This means that all people, not +farmers alone, but those who live in cities as well as the farmers, +are interested in experimental and educational activities along +agricultural lines as conducted by the Federal Government and the +States. These efforts should be liberally supported. + +R. A. Pearson, Assistant Secretary of Agriculture. + + +In a time like this no man has a moral right, whatever his fortune +may he, to employ another man to render any service of mere comfort +or convenience. When the finest young men of the United States are +in France digging ditches, sawing lumber, laying rails, and playing +with death, and when the finest young women of the United States are +scrubbing floors in hospitals, it is a sin that almost approaches the +unpardonable offense against civilization for any man or women in the +United States to engage in a wasteful or unnecessary service. + +Clarence Ousley, Assistant Secretary of Agriculture. + + + + * * * * * + + + + +Transcriber Note + + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of USDA Farmers' Bulletin No. 1014: +Wintering Bees in Cellars, by E. F. Phillips and George S. Demuth + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 59485 *** |