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diff --git a/old/sccxp10.txt b/old/sccxp10.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..35f085d --- /dev/null +++ b/old/sccxp10.txt @@ -0,0 +1,10767 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Successful Exploration Through the Interior +of Australia, by William John Wills + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Successful Exploration Through the Interior of Australia + +Author: William John Wills + +Release Date: June, 2004 [EBook #5816] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on September 6, 2002] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SUCCESSFUL EXPLORATION *** + + + + +Produced by Sue Asscher. asschers@bigpond.com + Robert Prince rkp277@msn.com + + + + + +SUCCESSFUL EXPLORATION + +THROUGH THE INTERIOR OF + +AUSTRALIA, + +FROM MELBOURNE TO THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA. + +FROM THE JOURNALS AND LETTERS OF + +WILLIAM JOHN WILLS. + +EDITED BY HIS FATHER, WILLIAM WILLS. + +LONDON: +RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, +PUBLISHER IN ORDINARY TO HER MAJESTY. +1863. + +DEDICATED, + +BY PERMISSION, + +TO HIS GRACE + +THE DUKE OF NEWCASTLE, K.G., +ETC., ETC., ETC. + +BY HIS GRACE'S + +FAITHFUL SERVANT, + +WILLIAM WILLS. +JANUARY, 1863. + +PREFACE. + +A life terminating before it had reached its meridian, can scarcely +be expected to furnish materials for an extended biography. But the +important position held by my late son, as second in command in +what is now so well-known as the Burke and Wills Exploring +Expedition across the Island Continent of Australia; the +complicated duties he undertook as Astronomer, Topographer, +Journalist, and Surveyor; the persevering skill with which he +discharged them, suggesting and regulating the march of the party +through a waste of eighteen hundred miles, previously untrodden by +European feet; his courage, patience, and heroic death; his +self-denial in desiring to be left alone in the desert with +scarcely a hope of rescue, that his companions might find a chance +for themselves;--these claims on public attention demand that his +name should be handed down to posterity in something more than a +mere obituary record, or an official acknowledgment of services. + +A truthful, though brief, memoir of my son's short career, may +furnish a stimulating example, by showing how much can be +accomplished in a few years, when habits of prudence and industry +have been acquired in early youth. He fell a victim to errors not +originating with himself; but he resigned his life without a +murmur, having devoted it to science and his country. His death, +with the circumstances attending it, furnishes an application of +the lines of a favourite poet, which he often quoted with +admiration: + + Lives of great men all remind us + We can make our lives sublime, + And departing leave behind us + Footsteps on the sands of time; + Footprints that perhaps another, + Sailing o'er Life's solemn main, + A forlorn and shipwreck'd brother, + Seeing, shall take heart again. + +The following pages are the only tribute a fond and mourning father +can offer to the memory of one who, while living, merited and +reciprocated his warmest affections. + +WILLIAM WILLS. + +London, January, 1863. + +CONTENTS. + +CHAPTER 1. +BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. + +Birth.--Infancy.--Boyhood and Early Education.--Youthful Traits of +Character. + +CHAPTER 2. + +My two Sons leave England for Australia.--Incidents of the Voyage. +--Extracts from Journal.--Arrival at Port Phillip.--Melbourne. +--Employed as Shepherds in the Interior.--Mode of Life.--Melbourne +in 1853.--Advice to Immigrants.--Descriptive Letters from the Bush. + +CHAPTER 3. + +I arrive in Australia.--Join my two Sons at their Sheep-station. +--Return to Melbourne and Remove to Ballaarat.--Visit to Mr. Skene. +--My son studies Surveying.--His Rapid Proficiency.--Appointed to +take Charge of a Party.--Letters on various Subjects to his Mother +and Brother at Home. + +CHAPTER 4. + +My Son is appointed to the Magnetic Observatory at Melbourne, under +Professor Neumayer.--His Rapid Advance in the Study of Magnetism +and Mineralogy.--Letters to his Relatives at Home, descriptive of +his Pursuits, Wishes, and Sentiments.--First suggestions of his +Probable Employment on the Exploring Expedition. + +CHAPTER 5. + +Postponement of the Exploring Expedition projected at the beginning +of 1860.--My Son's Letter to his Sister on going into Society.--Mr. +Birnie's Opinion of him, and Extract from his Lecture.--Letter from +William to his Mother on Religious Views and Definitions of Faith. +--His last Communications to his family at Home, before the +Departure of the Expedition. + +CHAPTER 6. +THE EXPEDITION. + +How the Expedition originated.--Appointment of the Leader, +Officers, and Party.--Mr. Robert O'Hara Burke, Mr. G.J. Landells, +Mr. W.J. Wills, Dr. Herman Beckler, Dr. Ludwig Becker, etc.--The +Expedition starts from Melbourne on the 20th of August, 1860. +--Progress to Swan Hill.--Discharge of Mr. Ferguson, the Foreman. +--Advance to Menindie.--Resignation of Mr. Landells and Dr. Herman +Beckler.--Mr. Wills promoted to second in command, and Mr. Wright +to third. + +CHAPTER 7. + +From Menindie on the Darling to Torowoto.--Mr. Burke's Despatch, +and Mr. Wills's Report from Torowoto.--Mr. Wright's unaccountable +delay at Menindie.--The Expedition proceeds onwards to Cooper's +Creek.--Exploring Trips in that neighbourhood.--Loss of three +Camels.--Mr. Wills's Letter to his Sister, December 6th and 15th. +--Incorrectness of McDonough's Statements. + +CHAPTER 8. + +Mr. Wills's Survey of the line of Country pursued by the +Expedition, from Torowoto Swamp to Cooper's Creek. + +CHAPTER 9. + +Departure from Cooper's Creek for the Gulf of Carpentaria. +--Arrangements for the continuance of the Depot at Cooper's Creek. +--Mr. Brahe left in Charge.--Determination of Route.--Progress and +Incidents.--Mr. Wills's Field Books, from the 16th of December, +1860, to the 30th of January, 1861, 1 to 9.--Shores of Carpentaria. + +CHAPTER 10. + +Return from Carpentaria to Cooper's Creek.--Mr. Wills's Journals +from February 19th to April 21st, 1861.--Illness and Death of Gray. +--The Survivors arrive at Cooper's Creek Depot and find it +deserted.--A Small Stock of Provisions left.--Conduct of Brahe. +--Report of the Royal Commission. + +CHAPTER 11. + +Proceedings in Melbourne.--Meeting of the Exploration Committee. +--Tardy Resolutions.--Departure of Mr. Howitt.--Patriotic Effort of +Mr. Orkney.--South Australian Expedition under Mr. McKinlay.--News +of White Men and Camels having been seen by Natives in the +Interior.--Certain Intelligence of the Fate of the Explorers +reaches Melbourne. + +CHAPTER 12. + +The attempt to reach South Australia and Adelaide by Mount +Hopeless.--Mistake of selecting that Route.--Mr. Wills's Journals +from the 23rd of April to the 29th of June, 1861.--Adventures with +the Natives.--Discovery of Nardoo as a Substitute for Food.--Mr. +Burke and King go in search of Natives for assistance.--Mr. Wills +left alone in the Desert.--The Last Entry in his Journal. + +CHAPTER 13. + +King's Narrative.--Mr. Burke and King again go in search of the +Natives, as a last resource.--Death of Mr. Burke.--King returns and +finds Mr. Wills dead in the Gunyah.--He falls in with the Natives +and wanders about with them until delivered by Mr. Howitt's party. +--Extract from Mr. Howitt's Diary.--Extract from Mr. McKinlay's +Diary.--My Son's last Letter to me, dated June 27th, 1861.--Strong +Attachment between Mr. Burke and my Son.--King delivers the Letter +and Watch intrusted to him.--With some difficulty I recover the +Pistol.--King's Reception in Melbourne.--Sir H. Barkly's Letter to +Sir Roderick Murchison.--Summary of Events and their Causes. + +CHAPTER 14. + +Letters of sympathy and condolence; from Sir Henry Barkly; Major +Egerton Warburton; A.J. Baker, Esquire; P.A. Jennings, Esquire; Dr. +Mueller; The Council of Ballaarat East; Robert Watson, Esquire; +John Lavington Evans, Esquire--Meeting at Totnes.--Resolution to +erect a Monument to Mr. Wills.--Proceedings in the Royal +Geographical Society of London.--Letter from Sir Roderick Murchison +to Dr. Wills.--Dr. Wills's Reply.--'The Lost Explorers,' a poetical +tribute.--Concluding Observations. + +APPENDICES. + +ILLUSTRATIONS: + +1. THE LAST HOURS OF MR. WILLS. + +Painted by Scott. Melbourne. London: Richard Bentley, 1863. +Engraved by J. Saddle. + +2. WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +Painted by Scott. Melbourne. Engraved by J. Brown. + +BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. + +CHAPTER 1. + +Birth. +Infancy. +Boyhood and Early Education. +Youthful Traits of Character. + +William John Wills was born at Totnes, in Devonshire, on the 5th of +January, 1834. He had, therefore, attained the full age of +twenty-seven at the time of his death. Even in infancy, his +countenance was interesting and expressive. He began to speak and +walk alone before he had completed his first year. His lively +disposition gave ample employment to his nurses, though I cannot +remember that he ever worried one, through peevishness or a +fractious temper. As soon as he could talk distinctly, he evinced +an aptitude to name things after his own fancy; and I may fairly +say, that he was never a child in the common acceptation of the +term, as he gave early indications of diligence and discretion +scarcely compatible with the helplessness and simplicity of such +tender years. About the time of his completing his third year, Mr. +Benthall, a friend and near neighbour, asked permission to take him +for a walk in his garden. The boy was then in the habit of +attending a school for little children, close by, kept by an old +lady. In less than an hour, Mr. Benthall returned to ask if he had +come home. No one had seen him, and we began to be alarmed lest he +might have fallen into a well in the garden; but this apprehension +was speedily ascertained to be groundless. Still he returned not, +and our alarm increased, until his mother thought of the school, +and there he was found, book in hand, intent on his lesson. He knew +it was the school hour, and while Mr. Benthall was speaking to the +gardener, had managed to give him the slip, passing our own door +and proceeding alone to the school, on the opposite side of the +square. Mr. Benthall, who can have seen or heard very little of him +since, was one of the first, on hearing of his recent fate, to send +a subscription to his monument, about to be erected at Totnes. +Perhaps he remembered the incident. + +Another anecdote of the child bears upon a leading characteristic +in the after life of the man. My late lamented brother, W.T. Wills, +who has since died at Belleville, in Upper Canada, was on a visit +at my house from abroad. He had occasion to go to Plymouth and +Devonport, and I engaged to drive him over in a gig. A petition was +made to his mother, that little Willy might accompany us. It was +granted, and we put up for the night at the Royal Hotel, at +Devonport, where he became quite a lion. The landlady and servants +were much taken by their juvenile visitor. The next morning, my +brother and I had arranged to breakfast at ten, each having early +business of his own to attend to, in different directions. When we +returned at the appointed time, the boy was missing. None of the +household had seen him for an hour. Each supposed that someone else +had taken charge of him. After a twenty minutes' search in all +directions by the whole establishment, he was discovered at the +window of a nautical instrument maker's shop, eight or ten doors +below the inn, on the same side of the street, within the recess of +the door-way, gazing in riveted attention on the attractive display +before him. The owner told me that he had noticed him for more than +an hour in the same place, examining the instruments with the eye +of a connoisseur, as if he understood them. His thirst for +knowledge had superseded his appetite for breakfast. About twelve +months subsequent to this date, we had nearly lost him for ever, in +a severe attack of remittent fever. At the end of a fortnight, the +danger passed away and he was restored to us. As he lay in complete +prostration from the consequent weakness, our old and faithful +servant, Anne Winter, who seldom left him, became fearful that his +intellects might be affected; and I shall never forget her +heartfelt delight and thankfulness when she saw him notice and +laugh at the ludicrous incident of a neighbour's tame magpie +hopping upon his bed. The effect of this fever was to alter the +contour of his features permanently, to a longer shape, giving him +a more striking resemblance to his mother's family than to mine. +His utterance, also, which had been voluble, became slow and +slightly hesitating. + +For some time after this he resided at home, under my own tuition. +Our intercourse, even at this early age, was that of friendly +companionship. Instructing him was no task; his natural diligence +relieved me from all trouble in fixing his attention. We were both +fond of history. From what I recollect, he took more interest in +that of Rome than of Greece or England. Virgil and Pope were his +favourite poets. He was very earnest with his mother in studying +the principles of the Christian religion. More than once my wife +remarked, "that boy astonishes me by the shrewdness with which he +puts questions on different points of doctrine." In his readings +with me he was never satisfied with bare statements unaccompanied +by reasons. He was always for arguing the matter before taking +either side. One question, when very young, he would again and +again recur to, as a matter on which the truth should be elicited. +This was a saying of our old servant, above named, when she broke +either glass or earthenware: that "it was good for trade." His +ideas of political economy would not permit him to allow that this +axiom was a sound one for the benefit of the state; and on this +point, I think, Adam Smith and Malthus would scarcely disagree. + +The pleasure I enjoyed in my son's society when a boy, was greater +than that which intercourse with many grown men contributed; for I +may strictly repeat, as I have already said, that he was never a +child in intellect although juvenile enough in habits and manners. +He never made foolish remarks, although not in the slightest degree +uncomfortably precocious or pragmatical. I had no fear of trusting +him with anything, and was often reproved for allowing so young a +child to handle a gun, which he was accustomed to do as early as +eleven years of age. His first practice was on some young rooks +which he brought down with unerring aim, from a rookery on the +grounds at our country residence. He was so particular in his +general demeanour that I designated him Gentleman John, and my +Royal Boy. His brothers, all younger than himself, styled him, Old +Jack, and Gentleman Jack. He had a wonderful power of attaching +animals of all kinds. Nothing moved him to anger so readily as +seeing one ill-used. Beating a horse savagely would excite his +disgust, as well as his dislike to the person who did it. Not +having a dog, he used to take a fine cat we had, which would +accompany him to any distance in the fields, and hunt the hedges +and hedgerows for him. Never feeling that I could have too much of +his company, I frequently made him my companion in long country +walks, during which he incessantly asked for information. For the +science of astronomy he evinced an early taste. When a very little +boy, I began to teach him the names and positions of the principal +constellations, the revolutions of the earth on its axis, and the +fixity of the polar star. I believe we were the first to notice a +comet in 1845, which was only a short time visible here, having a +south declination, and which we afterwards knew to have been a fine +object in the Southern hemisphere. + +At the age of eleven he went to school at Ashburton. Although the +distance was not more than six miles from the cottage of Ipplepen, +my then general place of residence, it was with much reluctance +that I consented to the separation. Several friends urged on me +that I was not doing him justice by keeping him at home; that a +public seminary where he could mix with other boys was an +advantage, even though he might not learn more. It also happened +that, at this time, a gentleman with whom I had been long +acquainted, and of whose talents I held a high opinion, was elected +to the head-mastership of that school, which held its chief +endowments from Gifford, the satiric poet, and Dr. Ireland, the +late Dean of Westminster. I remember how I returned in gloomy +spirits after leaving him there. As I had four other children, it +may be said that I showed undue partiality for this one, but my +conscience clears me from the charge. I deeply felt the loss of his +companionship. He was so suggestive that he set me thinking; and +whilst I was endeavouring to teach, I acquired more knowledge than +I imparted. There was nothing remarkable in his progress at school. +I experienced no disappointment because he did not return home at +the end of every half-year with the head prize. He merely brought +his six months' bill, and a letter commending his steady diligence +and uniform propriety of conduct. In viva voce examinations he had +scarcely an equal chance with one of inferior intellect who might +be quicker in expression; for besides the trifling hesitation of +speech I have already noticed, he would have been ashamed to give a +wrong answer from eagerness. A remark of Mr. Page, his tutor, +confirmed me in my own previous impression on this point. "It vexes +me," he said, "that John does not take a top prize, for I see by +his countenance that he understands as much, if not more, than any +boy in my school; yet from want of readiness in answering he allows +very inferior lads to win the tickets from him." On the whole, I +think he derived much benefit from Ashburton; for besides his +scholastic improvement he became an adept at the usual games, and a +social favourite out of school hours. + +At the age of sixteen he left the grammar-school, and I find the +30th of May, 1850, to be the date of his articles to me as surgeon. +I had at that time taken a partner, Henry Manly, Esquire, now +resident at Ipplepen, with a view of introducing and resigning to +him my Ipplepen practice. Being in a country place, five miles from +Totnes, where there was no chemist or dispensary, my son readily +acquired his duties, which were to distribute the medicines and +appliances directed for our patients by my partner and myself. In +all cases his caution was extreme and we had no fear of his making +mistakes. The ordinary operations of extracting a tooth or +breathing a vein when a bumpkin presented himself as a patient, he +speedily mastered. The absurd practice of going to be bled on any +occasion that might strike the fancy of the party, without the +advice of the doctor, was not at that time so completely obsolete +as in this advanced age I hope it is, and ought to be. I remember, +during the time of my own articles, that I frequently performed +venesection five or six times in a day on persons who requested and +fancied they required it; and I seldom indulged in the liberty of +asking, wherefore. + +In 1851, I took my son to London to show him the Great Exhibition. +His chief attractions there, were the instruments and mechanical +inventions. If, after a day or two, I chanced to deviate from the +leading thoroughfares and missed my way, he would set me right in a +moment. This was rather mortifying to one who fancied himself well +acquainted with London from frequent visits, but he smiled when he +saw I was not a true guide. I asked him how he acquired this apt +knowledge. "On the second day," he replied, "when you were out, I +took the map and studied it for two hours, so that now I am well +versed in it." My subsequent experience made me think he had some +instinctive power in matters like these, such as horses and +carrier-pigeons possess, for the darkest night never baulked him. +On a visit to Windsor, being told that it was considered a feat to +climb the statue of King George the Third at the end of the long +walk, he accomplished it in a very short time. At Hampton Court he +unravelled the mystery of the Maze in ten minutes and grew quite +familiar with all its ins and outs. + +In the following spring, 1852, I took him again to London, at the +opening of the session for medical students. As there was no +anatomical class he studied that branch of science by visiting the +museum at Guy's. Having myself been a student at that school, I +introduced him to my late respected teacher, Charles Aston King, +Esquire, through whom he obtained permission to attend. Surgical +operations he witnessed at the theatres of any hospital on the +regular days. The only class he entered was that of practical +chemistry, under Dr. John Stenhouse, LL.D., at Bartholomew's. When +the course had nearly terminated, I saw Dr. Stenhouse, and inquired +whether my son evinced any particular talent in that line. Dr. +Stenhouse came from the lecture-room, and walked with me through +Newgate-Street into Cheapside, earnestly requesting me not to take +from him one of the most promising pupils he had ever had. "I +venture an assurance," he said, "that in two years, in practical +chemistry, he will be second to few in England." Dr. Stenhouse at +that time was engaged in analyzing the different articles of food +sold in the shops, and found my son useful and suggestive. His +testimonial ran thus:-- + +I have much pleasure in certifying that Mr. W.J. Wills attended +a course of practical chemistry at this medical school during the +summer season of 1852. He obtained considerable proficiency, and +invariably distinguished himself by great propriety of conduct. + +(Signed) JOHN STENHOUSE LL.D., Lecturer to the Medical School of +St. Bartholomew's Hospital, + +September 1st, 1852. + +At the house where he lodged, kept by an old couple and their +servant, he was as one of themselves, and amused them greatly by +the discoveries he made of the tricks practised by vendors of goods +in the street; tricks they had no idea of, although they had lived +in London all their lives. They used to say he would be a great +genius in the detective department of the Police. + +CHAPTER 2. + +My two sons leave England for Australia. +Incidents of the Voyage. +Extracts from Journal. +Arrival at Port Phillip. +Melbourne. +Employed as Shepherds in the Interior. +Mode of Life. +Melbourne in 1853. +Advice to Immigrants. +Descriptive Letters from the Bush. + +DURING the summer of 1852, I formed the intention of joining the +exodus, then pouring out from England to Australia. I had been in +treaty with the "Melbourne Gold Mining Company," recently started, +in which promising speculation, on paper, I held some shares. The +late Earl of Devon was chairman. I was to go in the Sarah Sands, in +my professional capacity. My two sons, William John, and his +younger brother, were to accompany me; but on further investigation +of the modus operandi, I gave up all idea of attaching myself to +the scheme, sold my shares at a slight discount, and engaged as +medical attendant on the passengers, taking my two sons with me, in +a fine new ship, the Ballaarat, on her first voyage. This +arrangement I considered final. But a few days after William +returned home, he came to me when I was sitting alone, engaged in +writing, and with that expression in his countenance so peculiarly +his own, said; "My dear father, I have a favour to ask of you." "My +dear boy," I replied, "there is nothing you would venture to ask +that I could possibly refuse." "Then," continued he, "it is this. I +see my mother is grieving, although she says nothing, at our all +leaving her together. Let Tom and I go alone: I will pledge myself +to take care of him." After a consultation with my wife this new +plan was agreed upon. I released myself from my engagement with +Messrs. Simpkin and Marshall for the Ballaarat, and secured two +berths for the boys in one of Mr. W.S. Lindsay's ships, which at +that time were conveying living freights to Melbourne, their +Channel port of departure being Dartmouth. + +By the advice of Mr. Lindsay himself I took steerage passages for +them. He shrewdly remarked, "They will be there as soon and as +safely as the cabin-passengers, and their money will be saved." +This sounded so like an axiom in practical economy that my dear boy +never attempted to argue the question. Having obtained permission +to knock two cabins into one, my sons considerably diminished their +expenses, and had quite as agreeable a voyage as if they had paid +sixty guineas each; for I have lately learned by experience, in a +homeward passage, that you have to put up with companions in the +cabin, as objectionable as can be imagined in almost any situation +of life. + +At Dartmouth, a day or two before the ship started, I found that +William had expended some money on a quantity of stuff rolled up +like balls of black ropeyarn. I exclaimed with astonishment, "In +the name of goodness, are you going to chew or smoke all the way to +Australia?" for the commodity was the good old pig-tail tobacco. He +said, smiling, "This is to make friends with the sailors: I intend +to learn something about a ship by the time we reach our +destination." I dare say the worthy skipper of the good ship Janet +Mitchell, should he be still alive, has some recollection of him. +His mode of proceeding, as he told me, was first to secure the good +graces of the crew through the persuasive medium of the pig-tail; +then, to learn the name and use of every rope, and of every part of +the ship's tackle from stem to stern. He soon acquired the art of +splicing and reefing, and was amongst the first to go aloft in a +storm, and to lend a hand in taking in topsails. When I arrived in +Melbourne at a later period, several of his fellow-passengers spoke +to me with praise and wonder, referring to his activity, and +readiness to leave an unfinished meal, on the slightest indication +of danger or difficulty. His journal of this voyage, is now before +me, from which I extract a few remarks:-- + +1852. October 1st.--Left Dartmouth--Slightly sick for the first +few days--My brother much more so, but got right again--Foretopmast +carried away by a squall, just at the crosstrees, bringing down +with it the main top-gallant mast--'We look a precious wreck! +'--Remember the Honourable Michael de Courcy, brother of Lord +Kingsale, saying to me on the quay at Dartmouth, the day before we +sailed, that the first gale would carry away the fore-top-gallant +mast--I believe the Janet Mitchell is quite a new ship, on her +first voyage--The remark speaks well for the judgment of a young +officer. + +19th.--Sailors prigged some spirits in the hold and got very +drunk--A passenger so drunk that he became mad, and was put in +irons. + +20th.--Sailors not yet recovered from their drunkenness--A naval +captain, passenger on board, insulted by one of them; struck him +with his fist and cut his face open. + +22nd.--Fine weather--Getting hot--Latitude north 21, longitude west +36--The Great Bear getting low--Sunsets and risings very fine, +particularly the former. + +November 1st.--Shark taken, of which I had a large share and rather +enjoyed the novelty of the feed. + +5th.--Crossed the Line--Sailors shaved and ducked a good many--Tom +and I got off very well. (Query--effects of the pig-tail?) + +16th.--Stormy weather--Obtained some books on navigation and +studied trigonometry. + +20th and 21st.--Passed Tristan da Cunha, Inaccessible and +Nightingale Islands, about 37 south latitude, 12 longitude west. +--Saw a great many whales, mostly sperm, thousands of birds, +albatross, Cape pigeon, and many others, the names of which I am +ignorant of. + +23rd.--A shoal of porpoises passed us. A sailor struck one with a +harpoon, but it got off again. They are of a salmon colour, no more +like pigs than horses, just the shape of salmon, only much larger. +In swimming they turn on their sides. + +December 1st.--Smart breeze this morning which soon increased to a +gale--Assisted in furling top-gallant sail--sailors only half +dressed--After breakfast, had to double reef top-sails and +main-sail. I like reefing very much. + +2nd.--Waves not so high as I expected. It is amusing to see how the +birds ride them. + +27th.--Saw an eclipse of the moon last night, which lasted three +hours; little more than three quarters were eclipsed--Some of the +passengers discontented with the provisions--wonder that some of +them ever thought of leaving home. + +1853. January 1st.--Saw land this morning--Reached Cape Otway in +the afternoon; much the appearance of Berry Head, with a slight +haze on it--Coast to the west very like that about +Dartmouth--Cliffs, high; could fancy I saw Rock Vale. [Footnote: +The residence of a gentleman, near Dartmouth, with whom he had been +on a visit a short time before his departure.] + +3rd.--Dropped anchor--Captain and Doctor going ashore will post my +journal and our letters. + +. . . + +His own was short:-- + +Port Phillip, January 3rd, 1853. + +MY DEAR FATHER, + +We have this morning dropped anchor, just off Williamstown. +There are a fine set of ships here: amongst them are the Great +Britain, Cleopatra, Ballaarat, Aberfoil, and an immense number of +others, great and small. The Great Britain leaves early to-morrow, +so I cannot finish my letter. We have been ninety-five days on our +passage. The Cleopatra has only arrived two days. There are a great +many vessels coming in. The day before yesterday we overtook and +passed the Jane, and Truth, of London, which left Plymouth a +fortnight before we sailed from Dartmouth. I hear already that +things are very dear in Melbourne. Our pilot says he gives 200 +pounds a year for a small four-roomed cottage, two miles from the +town. + +. . . + +To show how well prepared the young adventurer was for life in +Australia,--notwithstanding letters of introduction and means of +obtaining money if required--after remaining only a few days in +Melbourne, and disbursing but a small modicum of the limited supply +of cash he had taken with him, anxious to see the interior of the +Island Continent, he obtained employment for himself and brother, a +lad only fifteen years of age, at a large sheep station two hundred +miles up the country. The following letter, dated February 12th, +1853, describes their proceedings to that date:-- + +MY DEAR FATHER, + +We are at Deniliquin. And where in the world is that? you will say. +Well; it is about two hundred miles north from Melbourne, on the +Edward River, in the New South Wales district, and nearly five +hundred miles from Sydney. The station belongs to the Royal Bank +Company. We have engaged as shepherds at 30 pounds per annum each, +and rations. We are very comfortable, in a hut by ourselves, about +four miles from the station. We have between thirteen and fourteen +hundred rams, by far the smallest and easiest flock, under our +charge. We take the hut-keeping and shepherding in turns. The hut +is a very nice one, built of split wood, and roofed with bark. It +is close beside a pleasant creek or river, where there are plenty +of fish and ducks. I assure you we make ourselves quite snug here. +One of us rises almost as soon as it is light, gets some breakfast, +and starts off with the sheep; lets them feed about until ten +o'clock, then brings them slowly home, where they lie down until +four; after that, they go out again until sunset. The other stays +within to clean up the hut and prepare the meals. We can kill a +sheep when we like. [Footnote: Not the rams. There were a few +others kept for the purpose. I stayed a few days with them, when I +went out myself, at the end of the year.] The worst part serves for +the dogs, of which we have three--a sheep dog, and two kangaroo +dogs. [Footnote: They had a horse when I visited them, but not, I +conclude, at the time when this letter was written.] The latter are +good, and keep off the native curs at night. The sheep dog was the +only one the former owner had last year, to watch a flock of five +thousand sheep. + +But you will want to hear something of Melbourne and how we came +here. The first discovery we made after we got into port was, that +we had to take ourselves and things ashore at our own expense. +There was a good deal of fuss made about it to no purpose. It was +four shillings each by steamer to Melbourne, and thirty shillings +per ton for goods. It cost us about 2 pounds altogether. At +Melbourne we found everything very dear; no lodgings to be had, +every place full. At length we were offered lodgings at sixty +shillings a week, to be paid in advance, and twenty-five persons +sleeping in the same room; but we preferred the Immigrant's Home, a +government affair, just fitted up for the accommodation of +new-comers, where you pay one shilling a night, and find yourself. +You must not stay more than ten days. We got there on Friday and +remained until the Saturday week following. We then obtained this +situation, and started on the same afternoon. Twenty-three of us +came up together. Drays were provided to carry our luggage, but we +ourselves had to walk. We were three weeks on the journey, through +the bush, sleeping, of course, in the open air. + +. . . + +He then proceeds to describe Melbourne, as it then was:-- + +Melbourne is situated, as you know, on the Yarra Yarra, [Footnote: +A native term, which means "always running."], which has not nearly +so large a bed as the Dart, although more navigable. It is narrow +but very deep, and so far resembles a canal rather than a river. +The town, or city, as they call it, is situated low, but laid out +on a good scale. The streets are very wide, and I think when filled +with houses it will be a fine place; but what spoils the appearance +now is, the number of wooden buildings they are throwing up, as +they cannot get workmen for others. When we were there, butter was +from two shillings and fourpence to three shillings per pound, +bread fourpence, milk eightpence per pint, vegetables enormous, +butcher's meat and sugar, as at home. Fruit very dear; a shilling +would not purchase as much as a penny in England. Beer and porter, +one shilling per pint in Melbourne, but from two shillings to two +and sixpence here. The town of Melbourne is all on one side of the +river, but on the opposite bank is Canvas Town, connected with +Melbourne by a good bridge of one arch. Canvas Town takes its name +from being entirely composed of tents, except a few wooden +erections, such as a public-house, and the Immigrant's Home, where +we had lodged. I do not like Melbourne in its present state. You +are not safe out after sundown, and in a short time you will not be +safe during the day. There were some men taken out of the river +drowned, suspected to have been murdered, and several attempts at +robbery, while we were there. I sold my box of chemicals, after +taking out what I wanted, for 4 pounds, and the soda-water +apparatus for 2 pounds 5 shillings. I also sold some books that we +could not carry, but got nothing for them. Scientific works do not +take. The people who buy everything here are the gold-diggers, and +they want story books. A person I know brought out 100 pounds worth +of more serious reading, and sold the lot for 16 pounds. + +We started from Melbourne on a Saturday, with the drays, eight +bullocks to each, laden entirely with the luggage of the party, +twenty-three in number. We made only five or six miles that +afternoon, and slept under some gum trees. Our clothes were nearly +saturated with dew; but as we advanced farther inland, the dews +decreased, and in a night or two there was no sign of them. The +land for a few miles is dry and sandy, but improves as you proceed. +The woods extensive, sometimes without interval for two or three +days' march. There was no scarcity of water, except for the first +fifteen miles, after leaving Melbourne. We enjoyed the journey +much, and shot many birds, which constituted our principal food. +Ducks abound in the creeks, [Footnote: Watercourses, running in +flood time, but partially dry in dry seasons.] and up this way +there are fine white cockatoos, which are good eating, and about +the size of a small fowl. There is also a bird very plentiful here +which they call a magpie. It is somewhat the colour of our magpie, +but larger, and without the long tail; easily shot and eatable, and +feeds, I believe, much like our wood-pigeons. [Footnote: It feeds +more on insects.] The pigeon here is a beautiful bird, of a +delicate bronze colour, tinged with pink about the neck, and the +wings marked with green and purple. They are tame, and nicer eating +than those at home. Where we are, we have abundance of food; plenty +of mutton, and we can get a duck, pigeon, or cockatoo whenever we +like, almost without going out of sight of our hut, besides a good +supply of fish in the river; Murray cod, which in the Murray are +said sometimes to weigh eighty pounds, but in our creeks generally +run from two to twelve; also a kind of mussel, and a fish like a +lobster, not quite so large, but good eating. [Footnote: Crawfish; +the river lobster.] + +Everyone who comes out does a very foolish thing in bringing such a +quantity of clothes that he never wants. All you require, even in +Melbourne, is a blue shirt, a pair of duck trousers, a straw hat or +wide-awake, and what they call a jumper here. It is a kind of +outside shirt, made of plaid, or anything you please, reaching just +below the hips, and fastened round the waist with a belt. It would +be a very nice dress for Charley. [Footnote: His youngest brother, +at home.] I should wear it myself if I were in England. It ought to +be made with a good-sized collar, and open at the breast, like a +waistcoat, only to button at the neck, if required. We brought out +the wrong sort of straw hat, as they are only fit for summer, but +we sold all but two. One I made six shillings of, but the +cabbage-tree hat is worth a pound. No one should bring out more +than he can carry on his back, except it be to sell. Boots and +shoes are at a great price, but they should be thick and strong. +Wages are very high for butchers, carpenters, and bakers. A +butcher's boy can get 3 pounds a week, with board and lodging. +Bullock-drivers get the same. Innkeepers are making fortunes. I +know a public-house, not larger than the Two Mile Oak, [Footnote: A +small public-house between Totnes and Newton.] that cleared 500 +pounds in three months, so it was reported. Sydney, I hear, is as +cheap to live in as London. As to the diggings, I cannot say much +about them. I have seen many who have made money there, and many +who have lost it again. It is generally spent as fast as it is got. +I hope we shall send you some specimens of gold dust soon. Please +to give my love to my mother and all at home. + +From your affectionate and dutiful son, + +W.J. WILLS. + +. . . + +His subsequent letters were of the same kind, descriptive of +his management in his shepherd's life in the bush. He tells how he +converted legs of mutton into excellent hams by pickling and +smoking them; and how he also obtained preserves of melons, by +sowing seeds which produced abundantly. The flies and ants were +their greatest torment, particularly the former. The heat was not +great, as there was a constant breeze from one quarter or another. +Deniliquin is in between 35 and 36 degrees south latitude. The +trees are almost exclusively gum trees, but they differ in +appearance and leaves, according to age and locality. This gives +the appearance of variety, when, in fact, there is none. The wood +is hard and splits easily. The bark is tough and thick, and can be +converted into canoes by closing the ends of a piece taken from +half the circumference of a tree, and tying a cord round the centre +to keep it from spreading. The colour is of a beautiful red. A +moisture sometimes exudes from the leaves in such abundance as to +convey the idea of an animal having been slain under the branches. +It has the smell of carraways and is agreeably sweet. "How it would +delight Bessy and Hannah," (his young sisters, then quite +children), he says, "to go into the woods, picking up comfits under +the trees!" + +He then speaks of the blacks in that district; of their habits and +ideas; but expresses a low opinion of their intellectual powers, +and thinks little can be done with them. In May, he wrote to his +mother and myself conjointly, fearing his former communications +might not have reached us, and briefly recapitulating their +purport. I afterwards heard at Deniliquin that he had successfully +performed a surgical operation. A shearer had run the point of his +shears into the neck of a sheep, and opened the carotid artery. My +son having a small pocket case of instruments, secured the vessel +and saved the animal. I remember when it was considered a triumph +in practice to effect this on a human subject. The letter I am now +alluding to concludes by hoping that we were all as comfortable at +home as he and his brother were in the bush. He never tired of +expatiating on the beauties of Australia and its climate. His next, +in August, gave a more extended account of local peculiarities and +features. Deniliquin is at this time (1862) a place of considerable +importance, with a thriving population. The island on which my sons +shepherded their rams is formed by two branches of the Edward +River, which is itself a branch of the Murray. + +CHAPTER 3. + +I arrive in Australia. +Join my two Sons at their Sheep-station. +Return to Melbourne and Remove to Ballaarat. +Visit to Mr. Skene. +My son studies Surveying. +His rapid proficiency. +Appointed to take charge of a Party. +Letters on various Subjects to his Mother and Brother at Home. + +IN the month of August, 1853, I reached Melbourne, after a good +voyage, having obtained an appointment as superintending surgeon of +a government emigrant ship, commanded by Captain Young, a perfect +sailor, and a gentleman I shall always remember with pleasurable +feelings. More than two months elapsed before I could discover +where my sons were. Having, at length, ascertained their locality, +I purchased a horse and performed the journey in four days, resting +one day on the road, at the station of Mr. Jefferies, on the +Campaspe. I started at daylight, and made my fifty miles before +halting, as I generally did about two P.M. I arrived at the +shepherds' hut at five o'clock on a beautiful summer's evening, +having remained two hours at the hotel at Deniliquin to refresh. + +Robberies on the road--stickings up as they are called--were rife +at this period. Thefts also were common at the resting-houses. A +gentleman who arrived at this hotel, not long before I was there, +took the saddle off his horse, and placed it under the verandah: +when he returned, after leading his animal to a paddock hard by, he +missed the saddle, which he supposed had been removed by some +person belonging to the house, and threw down his bridle on the +same place. After taking something to drink with the landlord he +said, "You have got my saddle."--" No." "I left it under the +verandah, where I have just placed my bridle." On going out to show +the spot, the bridle also had disappeared: both stolen. A good +saddle and bridle at that time would fetch twenty pounds readily. + +At the station I took a native black for my guide. He brought me to +a place where my horse had nearly to swim across the creek, pointed +to a dry path, exclaimed, "There," then turned his own animal and +rode off. I followed the track for about three miles, and found +myself in front of the hut. My sons were both at home. Tom called +the attention of his brother to my approach. They appeared as much +astonished as he describes the blacks near the Gulf of Carpentaria +to have been at sight of himself and companions. Presently came the +recognition, a shout of joy, and a greeting such as may readily be +imagined, on the part of two boys on seeing the father they had not +long before supposed to be separated from them by some sixteen +thousand miles. + +A few days after, we all left Deniliquin, each mounted on a horse, +my sons having first disinterred their money, buried at the foot of +a gum tree on a hillock which they considered as a safe bank of +deposit. It was their intention to have made a present of the +greatest part, 100 pounds, to their mother, on the first eligible +opportunity of forwarding it. On our way back we paid a visit to +the Bendigo diggings. William here evinced his skill as an explorer +by leading us, with the aid of his compass, through a trackless +bush, by which we saved a circuit of several miles. At Matthison's +hotel, on the Campaspe river, where we halted for the night, an +amusing conversation occurred. In the evening there was a great +gathering of all nations in the parlour. I undertook to tell the +different parties of English, by their dialect, from what +particular quarter they came. A person present, who articulated +with much difficulty from having nearly lost the roof of his mouth, +declared that he would defy any one to identify him by his speech. +We all agreed that it exceeded our powers, when he informed us with +a great effort that he was "a Kashman," meaning Scotchman. + +On our return to Melbourne, we made preparations for a removal to +Ballaarat. William remained with me at the latter place for twelve +months, attending to any patient that might come in my absence. He +also opened a gold office adjoining my tent and did very well. Here +he perfected a plan of his own for weighing specimens containing +quartz and gold, in water, so as to find the quantity of each +component. But he was ever pining for the bush. The "busy haunts of +men" had no attraction for him. He preferred the society of a few +to that of many, but the study of nature was his passion. His love +was fixed on animals, plants, and the starry firmament. With regard +to medicine, he used to say that it was not clear and defined in +practice. He wanted to measure the scope of a disease, and to +supply the remedies by mathematical rule. He saw, too, that medical +men were less valued for their real worth than for their tact in +winning confidence through the credulity of the public. This was +particularly exemplified in a gold-field, where the greatest +impostors obtained credit for a time. His thoughts and conversation +also constantly reverted to the interior, and to the hope that he +would one day undertake the journey to the Gulf of Carpentaria. He +was anxiously looking out for a movement in that direction, then +often talked of. + +About this period he made a pedestrian excursion to the Wannon, to +sojourn for a short time with a Mr. Skene, a most worthy gentleman, +now no more. He was actively employed at that place, and wrote to +me frequently, describing the family, to which he was much +attached, the whimsicalities of his landlord--a thorough old +Scotian, who amused himself by waking the echoes of the wilderness +with the bagpipes,--the noble fern trees and the fine black +cockatoos. He also continued his practice in surgery, but I believe +he made no charge, as, not being duly licensed, he considered he +had no right to do so. He returned to Ballaarat in consequence of a +communication through me, from an American gentleman named +Catherwood. On receipt of my letter he lost not an hour, shouldered +his swag (blankets, kit, etc.), took leave of Mr. Skene and family, +and walked to Ballaarat, sleeping one night in the bush, by the +way. On the 22nd of April, 1855, he wrote thus to his mother: + +MY DEAR MOTHER, + +I had the pleasure of receiving a letter from you a fortnight +since. I was at Moora Moora then, as you will see by a letter I +wrote just before I came down here, in the hope of joining a party +that is spoken of as about to explore the interior of the country, +which you appear to have such a dread of. It seems uncertain +whether they will go at all. As to what you say about people being +starved to death in the bush, no doubt it would be rather +disagreeable. But when you talk of being killed in battle, I am +almost ashamed to read it. If every one had such ideas we should +have no one going to sea for fear of being drowned; no travellers +by railway for fear the engine should burst; and all would live in +the open air for fear of the houses falling in. I wish you would +read Coombe's Constitution of Man. As regards some remarks of yours +on people's religious opinions, it is a subject on which so many +differ, that I am inclined to Pope's conclusion who says:-- + + For modes of faith let graceless zealots fight; + His can't be wrong whose life is in the right; + +and I think we cannot have a better guide to our actions than + + 'to do unto others as we would be done by.' + +Ever your affectionate son, + +W.J. WILLS. + +P.S. If I go, I will write again before starting. + +. . . + +The expedition he here speaks of turned out a mere venture to obtain +cash, and nothing came of it. He remained but a short time at +Ballaarat, and never idle. In a month he completed a wooden +addition to my residence, building the sides, and shingling the +roof in a most workmanlike manner. It was perfectly weatherproof, +and stood good for some years, being only taken down when an +alteration in the line of the street rendered its removal +necessary. He now wished to study surveying. My acquaintance with +Mr. Taylor, district surveyor at Ballaarat, obtained for him an +admission as an amateur into his office. He there set to work with +his characteristic industry to perfect himself in trigonometry and +Euclid; drawing and mapping in the office by day, and working hard +in his own room by night. On rising from bed in the morning, I have +found him sitting as I had left him, working out his point, for he +never deserted anything he had once taken up until he mastered it. +At the expiration of a few months, Mr. Taylor promised me to +introduce him to a gentleman in the survey department named Byerly, +with a view to reciprocal services. On the 20th of August, 1856, he +speaks for himself in a letter to his mother from Glendaruel: + +MY DEAR MOTHER, + +I have at length found time to write to you. You will no doubt +expect a long letter after so much delay, but I am afraid you will +be disappointed, as long letters are not my forte. In your last, +you asked me to send Bessy any information I could. I can assure +you I shall be most happy to do so, and to encourage her taste for +knowledge as much as lies in my power. I send her Bonwick's +Geography of Australia, which is a very useful little book, and in +most instances correct. + +You must not look upon it as infallible. For instance, he says Lake +Burrambeet is in the Pyrenees, whereas it is more than twenty miles +from those mountains. But this may be a misprint. I would recommend +you to let the children learn drawing. I do not mean merely +sketching, but perspective drawing, with scale and compasses. It is +a very nice amusement, and may some day be found extremely useful. +There is another thing would do them much good, if they should +happen to have a taste for it: this is Euclid. Not to learn by +heart, but to read so as to understand it. Mathematics generally, +and Euclid, and Algebra in particular, are the best studies young +people can undertake, for they are the only things we can depend on +as true, (of course I leave the Bible out of the question). +Christian and Heathen, Mahometan and Mormon, no matter what their +religious faith may be, agree in mathematics, if in nothing else. +But I must now tell you something of your undutiful son. I am +learning surveying under Mr. F. Byerly, a very superior man indeed. +In fact I could not have had a better master had he been made to +order, for he is a first-rate surveyor, and we are exactly suited +to each other in our general ideas; and this, to tell the truth, is +a rare chance for me. + +I am getting 150 pounds per annum, and rations, but I hope in +twelve months to have a party of my own. It is just the sort of +life for me, nearly always in the bush marking out land for sale, +or laying down unknown parts. It is quite a different thing from +surveying in England. Glendaruel is fifteen miles from Ballaarat. I +saw the Doctor and Tom a few days since. They were quite well; I +hope you are so also. Love to all. + +Your affectionate son, + +W.J. WILLS. + +. . . + +He was appointed to the charge of a field party before the time +he expected. I was anxious to give him a set of surveying +instruments, and requested him to send me a list and an order to +the best London maker for such as he wanted. He transmitted the +following letter, which marks the progress of his knowledge, to be +forwarded to Messrs. Troughton and Sims, Fleet Street. I obtained +it very recently from that house. + +March 20th, 1857. + +SIRS, + +I shall be much obliged by your executing the following order as +quickly as possible, and at your most reasonable prices. + +1. One four-inch theodolite, best construction: 21 pounds. + +2. One of Troughton's best reflecting circles, eight-inch radius, +divided on silver: 23 pounds. + +3. One prismatic compass, three and a-half inch, with silver ring: +5 pounds 5 shillings. + +4. One six-inch semicircular protractor, with Vernier: 3 pounds 3 +shillings. + +5. One glass plane artificial horizon, ordnance pattern: 4 pounds 4 +shillings. + +6. One brass rolling parallel ruler, two feet long; must not weigh +less than five pounds. + +7. One twelve-inch brass sector: 1 pound. + +8. One set of six-inch ivory plotting-scales, with offset scales +complete: 4 pounds. + +9. Two steel straight-edges, three feet each. + +10. Four sixty feet land chains. + +11. One small compact case of good sector-jointed, drawing +instruments with ivory parallel ruler: 3 pounds 3 shillings. + +12. One very small achromatic telescope of the strongest make, not +to exceed six inches in length, when closed: 1 pound. + +13. A small chemical blowpipe with ivory mouthpiece, and two +platina tips; also some platina foil and wire. + +14. Two Nautical Almanacs, 1858 and 1859. + +Leather cases and straps for theodolite, circle, and prismatic +compass. A catalogue of instruments with prices. + +N.B. I should wish the theodolite and circles to be packed very +differently from the usual way, as many instruments are seriously +injured by the box warping either inwards or outwards; in the one +case pressing too much on the instruments, and in the other, which +is worse, leaving them too much space, so that they shake about +whenever the box is carried. The consequence is that the screws +loosen, the glasses fall out of the telescopes, and the instruments +become unfit for use just when they are most wanted. I think these +evils may be avoided by having the parts of the box which touch any +instrument well padded with the most elastic materials, and for it +to be supported entirely on steel springs, strong enough to keep it +firmly in its place, and with sufficient play to allow the box to +warp without injury to any of the contents. I also wish an +improvement in the stand of the theodolite, which ought not to be +smaller than that of the five-inch one, and the joints made of the +metals least likely to sustain damage from friction. The cap-piece +should be nearly twice the depth, vertically, and cut out of one +solid piece of metal. I subjoin a sketch of it, with the +dimensions. It may be made of whatever metal you think proper. +There is no harm in having iron about it, because we seldom require +to use the needle. My reason for wanting this improvement is, that +the legs get loose so quickly from the wearing away of brass, and +that the many small surfaces in contact are too disproportionate to +their length. Strength and durability are of far more consequence +than lightness, as we have not the facilities for getting things +repaired here that you have in England. The figures I have placed +opposite to the instruments described are not supposed to be the +exact prices, but merely suggested as guides. I hope you will do +the best you can with the improvements mentioned, especially in the +mode of packing the larger articles. Please also to insure them to +the full value. + +I have the honour to be, + +Gentlemen, + +Your obedient servant, + +W.J. WILLS. + +. . . + +He then in a postscript makes some suggestions as to the +graduation of the scales. The instruments were sent out in the +shortest possible time and gave great satisfaction. On departing +for his last fatal expedition, he requested me, should he not +return, to give all his remaining instruments to his friend Mr. +Byerly, for whom his high estimation never abated. This injunction +I fulfilled as far as in my power. Any person who may happen to be +in charge of some that I had not, will I trust deliver them to +their lawful owner, Frederick Byerly, Esquire, Surveyor, Melbourne. + +About the time I am now referring to, I was often congratulated by +gentlemen of the Surveying Department, who were acquainted with my +son, on his rapid progress in the difficult branches of the +science. One, in particular, said: "I consider it wonderful that +your son should have mastered this business almost by his own +exertions, whilst I have cost my father nearly a thousand pounds in +England, under first-rate teachers, and am glad to go to him for +information on many points." Mr. Byerly too, who is not given to +flatter, when I thanked him for having so ably instructed and +brought my son forward in so short a time, replied: "Don't thank +me; I really believe he has taught me quite as much as I have +taught him." In my own experience, his queries and suggestions led +me to investigate many things, which I had slightly considered, +without thoroughly understanding them. He had a rare gift of +ascertaining in a very short time the use of any instrument put +into his hands, and could detect at a glance its defects, if such +existed. In the early part of 1858, a gentleman who had made errors +in his surveys asked him to look over some of his instruments. +William, on taking one into his hand, said at once, with a smile: +"If you work with this, you will find many errors." "That is why I +asked you," replied the owner. "I have been surveying with it, and +have committed nothing but mistakes." So much were people in the +habit of praising him, that it carried my thoughts back to my Latin +Grammar, and the quotation from Terence:-- + + Omnes omnia + Bona dicere et laudare fortunas meas, + Qui gnatum haberem tali ingenio praeditum. + +For himself, he was perpetually lamenting to me that at school +he had not received more mathematical instruction; that the time +spent in classics exclusively, was, for many, time thrown away. But +I must do his late master the justice of saying, that when he first +received him under his tuition, he showed little fondness for +mathematics in general, although he had a taste for algebra. The +two following letters, to his brother and mother, bearing the same +date, in the spring of 1858, were despatched from the out-station +where he was engaged in a survey. + +St. Arnaud, April 10th, 1858. + +DEAR CHARLEY, + +I do not think you have written a letter to me since we have been +out here. It gave me much pleasure to see yours to the Doctor. I +wish you could be here, instead of working for 40 or 50 pounds a +year at home, out of which you can save very little. Here you might +be getting at least 100 pounds, and nothing to find yourself but +clothes. But it will not do for you to come until the Doctor goes +home. I want you to write and tell me if you have any taste for any +particular profession, and if you have been making good use of your +spare time, in reading useful works. You should remember never to +waste a minute; always be doing something. Try and find out what +things you have most taste for, as they are what you should study +most; but get a general knowledge of all the sciences. Whatever +else you learn, don't forget mathematics and the sciences more +immediately deduced from them, (at the head of which stands +astronomy,) if you have any love of truth--and if you have not, you +have none of your mother's blood in you. Mathematics are the +foundation of all truth as regards practical science in this world; +they are the only things that can be demonstrably proved; no one +can dispute them. In geology, chemistry, and even in astronomy, +there is more or less of mere matter of opinion. For instance, in +astronomy we do not know for certain what the sun or stars are made +of, or what the spots are on the sun, and a few details of that +kind; but the main mathematical principles cannot be disputed. The +distance and size of the sun or of any of the planets can be +proved; the length of their days and years, and even the weight of +the matter of which they are composed. Such things will probably +appear to you impossible, if you have read nothing of them; +especially when you hear that the sun is ninety-five millions of +miles off, and that the planet Neptune, which is the farthest known +planet from the sun, is at such a distance that the light of the +sun takes about five hours to reach it; that is, the sun is +actually five hours above the horizon before the people there see +it rise. Its distance is 2850 millions of miles, and the sun as +seen by them is not larger than Venus appears to us when an evening +star. And although this planet is so distant that it can only be +seen with large telescopes, they can not only compute its distance +and size, but also the mass of matter of which it is composed. But +you will find all this thrown into the shade by the way in which it +was discovered. As I may be telling you what you know already, I +will merely state, that from observed perturbations in the course +of the planet Uranus, it was supposed that another planet was in +existence beyond it; and two competitors set to work to calculate +its size, situation, etc. The result was, the discovery of this +other planet within a few minutes of the place pointed out by them, +and its size, etc., not very different from what they estimated it +at. But besides this, astronomy includes matters more intimately +mixed up with our everyday affairs. In the Nautical Almanacs, which +are constructed for several years in advance, the situations and +nearly everything connected with the different planets are +calculated for every day in the year, and can be found, if +required, for any minute in any day you please, for 10,000 years to +come. Also the eclipses of the sun or moon, with the exact moment +at which they will commence or end, at any spot on the earth; the +exact portion eclipsed, or, in fact, anything about it you like to +mention for any given number of years in advance. Not only this, +but you can find the eclipses of Jupiter's moons with the same +precision. Now is there anything to be compared with this? But if +astronomy led to no other end than the mere gaining of knowledge, +or the assistance of commerce, it would take a far lower stand than +it is really entitled to. As the great object of the science is the +correction of error and the investigation of truth, it necessarily +leads all those that feel an interest in it to a higher +appreciation and desire for truth; and you will easily perceive +that a man having a knowledge of all these vast worlds, so much +more extensive than our own, must be capable of forming a far +higher estimate of that Almighty Being who created all these +wonders, than one who knows nothing more than the comparatively +trifling things that surround us on earth. + +I send you 3 pounds, with which you are to get the following books +for yourself and the girls: + +Dr. Lardner's Museum of Science and Art, in six double volumes: 1 +pound 1 shilling. + +Chambers' Mathematics, Parts 1 and 2, and Chambers' Mathematical +Tables, each: 3 shillings 6 pence. + +A Nautical Almanac for next year: 2 shillings 6 pence. + +The Art of Reasoning, or the Principles of Logic, by Samuel Niel: 4 +shillings 6 pence. + +Twelve planispheres, forming a guide to the stars for every night +in the year, with an introduction: 6 shillings 6 pence. + +Lardner's Museum of Science and Art is one of the best books that +has ever been written. It includes a general knowledge of nearly +everything you can think of; and will be as useful to Bessy and +Hannah as to you. + +Chambers' Mathematics, contain all that you are likely to require +in that branch, with the exception of Euclid and Algebra, both of +which you must get, unless you have them. You will need some one to +assist you and explain points in the mathematics and algebra, +otherwise your progress will be very slow. But remember that +whenever you have puzzled over a problem for some time, and cannot +understand it, do not give it up altogether, but leave it for a few +days or weeks and then try it again. It will then, very likely, +appear quite simple, and you will be astonished that you did not +make it out before. You will find the Nautical Almanac very useful, +not only in giving you an idea of astronomical problems, but also +for ascertaining the particulars of any strange stars you may see, +or where to look for the different planets, etc. With the help of +the twelve maps you will soon be acquainted with all the principal +fixed stars. + +You should carefully study the Art of Reasoning, as it is what most +people are very deficient in, and I know few things more +disagreeable than to argue, or even converse with a man who has no +idea of inductive and deductive philosophy. After getting the books +I have mentioned, you may spend the balance in any others you +please, but remember, they must be scientific ones. If you write to +Walton and Maberley, 27 Ivy Lane, Paternoster Row, they will send +you a catalogue of books published by them, in which you will find +descriptions of nearly all that I have mentioned and plenty of +others. You can order those you want direct from them, or get them +through a local stationer. I expect you to acquire some practice at +printing, and ornamental writing, in the Bank. If you have a steady +hand, you should exercise yourself at it as much as possible, and +learn mechanical drawing at the same time. Draftsmen get well paid +out here, and are greatly in demand. Being able to print neatly and +evenly is the main point: all the rest is easily learned. My hand +is very unsteady, as you may see by my writing; I do not think I +shall ever be able to write a decent hand. One other piece of +advice I must give you before I shut up; that is, never try to show +off your knowledge, especially in scientific matters. It is a sin +that certain persons we know have been guilty of. The first step is +to learn your own ignorance, and if ever you feel inclined to make +a display, you may be sure that you have as yet learned nothing. I +think I must write to mamma next time. Give my love to her, the +girls, old Anne, Aunt M., Miss R., etc., and when you write, tell +me what has become of Farwell, and any others of our schoolmates +you may know about. + +Your affectionate brother, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +. . . + +St. Arnaud, April 10th, 1858. + +MY DEAR MOTHER, + +It is all very well to say write about anything, but it is +easier said than done. You will find that I have written Charley a +long letter, and I had no idea of doing so when I began, as you see +I commenced on note paper. But what would be the use of my writing +to you on such subjects, and all others are soon disposed of? (You +would not think I was a surveyor, to look at the parallelism of +these lines.) You tell me in one of your letters to write about +myself. That is a very poor subject, and one that a mother should +not recommend to a son. My father sent me a letter of yours a few +weeks ago, and I cannot say whether it most amused or pained me to +see the extraordinary way in which you rush to conclusions. Your +argument appears to be this: J. is acquainted with a Mr. T. another +Mr. T. has taken out some Miss G. G.'s, about whom there are +scandalous reports (which are as likely to be false as true): +therefore J. is sure to fall in love with one of the Miss G. G.'s. +As it happens, J. has not had the pleasure of meeting any of the +Miss G. G.'s, and it is quite probable that he never may, as +Australia is not a little place like Totnes; and I do not think he +would have any wish to connect himself with the G. family, or with +any family in marriage, at present. There is another thing, my dear +mother, in that letter. You talk about high and low people; I +presume you use the words in a very different sense from that in +which I understand them. I consider nothing low but ignorance, +vice, and meanness, characteristics generally found where the +animal propensities predominate over the higher sentiments. I have +yet to learn that there is anything high about the T.'s. Mr. T. is +a jolly little man, and lives more like a gentleman than most of +the people about the bush; but he has rather a tendency to the +animal development than otherwise, which makes it probable that +there may be some truth in the reports alluded to. + +From what I can judge of this dear son of yours he is not likely, I +think, to do anything very rashly; and as for getting married, he +will not be in a position to think of that for several years; and +if ever he does, I hope it will be to some one at least equal to +himself in education. Give my love to Bessy and Hannah. I do not +think it would do them any harm to write a letter sometimes. I +expect Bessy was tired long ago of the algebra you were talking so +much about. + +Does it ever enter your head that it would be a good thing for all +of you to come out here in a few years, when the girls have +finished their education? This country is undergoing great changes +for the better. Now the rush to the diggings is over, people are +beginning to live like civilized human beings. In a few years +everything will be as settled as in England, and we shall be able +to live much cheaper. + +Believe me ever, my dear mother, + +Your affectionate son, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +. . . + +From a letter to myself of the 6th of June, which was rather a +long one, I give only the following extracts:-- + +"What you say about this world I do not quite agree with; I +think it a very good world, and only requires a person to be +reasonable in his expectations, and not to trust too much to +others. It appears to be almost equally divided into three +principal classes--honest fools, foolish rogues, and honest +rational beings. Some may add another class, but there are so few +belonging to it--scarcely one in ten thousand--that I think it +should be ranked amongst the phenomena of nature. I mean, the +successful rogues--men who do things neatly, and escape being found +out. The first and second are often useful to each other; the third +benefit by the first and second, inasmuch as they learn by their +experience, without paying for it themselves." He then cautions me +against certain money speculations. Another paragraph says: "I find +I am likely to change my station, but have no instructions as yet. +I do not care if they keep me here another month. I have first-rate +neighbours, a Mr. and Mrs. M., who live just across the creek; very +nice people, and no humbug. Mr. M. resembles you in many ways." He +then mentions a colt he had reared, called Nelly; says she goes in +and out of the tent as if she had been born in it, shakes hands +with any one as soon as asked, and carries Mr. M.'s little boy +Willie on her back with perfect gentleness. On his way back to +Melbourne, he taught a colt of mine, in two or three days, to be +equally docile, until it became the pet of the community. It was +reared by hand, and I fear I lost it through the kindly-meant +attention of one of my neighbours. + +In the summer of 1858 he went down to Melbourne in consequence of a +disagreement between Mr. Byerly and the Chief Commissioner of Land +and Works at that time, Mr. Duffy. He was not then employed in the +regular survey, but took occasional contracts, under Mr. +Hodgkinson, Deputy Surveyor General, who always expressed his +admiration of his character. A letter to his mother at this date +says:-- + +Melbourne, August 15th, 1858. + +MY DEAR MOTHER, + +I have again to plead guilty of the sin of omitting to write. It +is many months since I have heard from you, and as for Charley and +the girls, they do not write at all. I have just left the bush and +am living, for the present, in town. The change is pleasant, after +being so long in the bush. Melbourne is wonderfully altered since I +last saw it. There are some very fair buildings in it now, and +things are a little cheaper than they used to be. I am, of course, +living in lodgings, and am fortunate in getting into a comfortable +house; a private family with no other lodgers, and Mrs. H. takes +almost as much care of me as you would. It is quite strange, and at +the same time amusing to me, to see her anxiety about my eating, +drinking, catching cold, and all that sort of thing, as I have been +so long unaccustomed to these little attentions. I am sure if some +of you who have never been away from home were to see how we live +in the bush, you would not expect us to survive more than a few +weeks, and yet it does us no harm whatever. I passed through +Ballaarat on my way down, and spent a few days with my father. He +was looking better than he used to be, very healthy, and not so +stout. It is astonishing how little he eats, and yet is always +complaining of having eaten too much. I expect it will be the same +with me. I have as good an appetite as ever, but I can live on much +less food than other people can. I hope Charley has the books I +told him to get. I send you with this a Victoria News Letter, which +will save me the trouble of writing what I suppose you will care +little to hear, so I have no more news to tell you; and with best +love to--etc. etc., + +Believe me, my dear mother, + +Your affectionate son, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +. . . + +As I shall have occasion to allude to this letter in a +subsequent portion of my narrative, I wish the latter part of it, +with regard to eating, may be borne in mind. + +CHAPTER 4. + +My Son is appointed to the Magnetic Observatory at Melbourne, under +Professor Neumayer. His Rapid Advance in the Study of Magnetism and +Mineralogy. Letters to his Relatives at Home, descriptive of his +Pursuits, Wishes, and Sentiments. First suggestions of his Probable +Employment on the Exploring Expedition. + +IN November, 1858, my son received an appointment in the Magnetic +Observatory at Melbourne, then recently established under Professor +Neumayer, on the recommendation of Mr. Ligar, the Surveyor-General. +This gentleman had his eye on him, as he told me himself, to +succeed the professor, in the event of his returning to his native +country, Germany; and also with the view of his being employed, on +attaining a thorough knowledge of magnetic science, in the geodetic +survey of the colony. Such was the progress he made, that Mr. +Ellery, superintendent of the astronomical observatory at +Williamstown, tried to dissuade him from engaging in the +exploratory expedition, when formed. But notwithstanding the +prospect of double pay and less danger, he yielded to his +long-cherished desire of being one of the first to reach the Gulf +of Carpentaria overland by a direct route, north from Melbourne; +and therefore resolved to "set his life upon a cast, and stand the +hazard of the die." + +I now give a series of extracts from his letters to his mother, +sisters, and brother, written during his residence at the +Observatory. They indicate his character, sentiments, and +occupations more distinctly than I could do by rendering them in my +own words. He and his chief boarded together; a great advantage, as +it gave him the opportunity, even at table, of conversing on his +favourite subjects, astronomy and magnetism. At times, he feared +that he should lose this position. One cause of apprehension was, +that the local parliament would discontinue the grant for the +Observatory; another, that superior interest might wrest it from +him, as he had not been regularly appointed to the staff by +Government, but by Mr. Ligar himself, who had seen, by intercourse +with him during the survey, that he was putting "the right man in +the right place." In a letter to me, December, 1858, he says: "I +hope I shall not have to go into the bush again, I like Melbourne +and my present occupation so much. But everything must be uncertain +until after Christmas, as all depends on Parliament voting money +for the Observatory. Should they not allow the necessary sum, I +must return to surveying once more." + +. . . + +Magnetic Observatory, Melbourne, March 16th, 1859. + +MY DEAR MOTHER, + +It gave me much pleasure to receive a letter from you by the +last mail; but I can assure you that I am always so busy, and the +time passes so quickly, that I had almost forgotten to write to you +until it was too late, as the mail closes early to-morrow morning. +I am now living at the Observatory, Professor Neumayer having +kindly given me a room here, which is a great advantage in many +ways. I hope that Charley will take every opportunity of learning +the things I mentioned in a letter to him some time ago, more +especially mathematical drawing: and that I shall see in the next +letter I receive from him that he has changed his mind as regards +the profession he said he had a taste for. I wish he would find out +for me whether there is a translation into English of Colonel +Savage's Practical Astronomy. It is a Russian work, and the place +to inquire is of some of the booksellers in London who confine +themselves to foreign publications. I like my present employment +more and more every day. My only trouble is the want of time. I +hope you all find your time pass as easily as I do; if the girls do +not, they may as well kill some of it by writing letters. I have so +much to do that I must conclude, with love to all. + +Ever, my dear mother, + +Your affectionate son, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +. . . + +Magnetic Observatory, June 17th, 1859. + +MY DEAR MOTHER, + +It was my intention to have sent you a stereoscopic photograph +of your dear son by this mail; but owing to pressure of business I +have been unable to get it done in time. I must therefore leave it +until next month. I received a letter from Ballaarat a day or two +ago, containing one from you to my father; you say something in it +about not hearing from me. I do not understand how that is, as I +have been wonderfully regular lately, and have sent a letter every +month to one of you. I am sorry to hear that the winter has been so +mild, for I fear that may cause much damage from frost in the +spring. We have had a considerable quantity of rain here already, +which is a great benefit to the country generally, but makes it +rather unpleasant in Melbourne. Wonderful improvements have been +made in our public library lately. It is now really a splendid one; +in fact there are very few better anywhere. I enclose a News +Letter, which is a great convenience to lazy fellows, or to those +who have too much work. Give my love to all, and + +Believe me, my dear mother, + +Your affectionate son, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +. . . + +Magnetic Observatory, Melbourne, June 17th, 1859. + +MY DEAR BESSY, + +I must write a few lines to you, more especially as I wrote to +Hannah by the last mail; but mind, I must have a long answer by +return of post. I want to know whether Charles got the maps of the +stars that I told him to get some time ago. If so, he should begin +at once to keep a register of meteors. In the first place, let him +get a book--a good copybook would do--and rule it according to the +following form, to which I have attached an example:-- + +Column 1: Number (Name) of Meteor. +Column 2: Day of Month. +Column 3: Hour of Day. +Column 4: Altitude. At commencement. +Column 5: Altitude. At end. +Column 6: Azimuth. At commencement. +Column 7: Azimuth. At end. +Column 8: Description of its situation with respect to certain Stars. + At commencement. +Column 9: Description of its situation with respect to certain Stars. + At end. + +1 : June 1 : 8 P.M. : 35 degrees : 20 degrees : north-east : east + by south : 2 or 3 degrees below Spice. : To Anthers. + +Column 1: Size of Meteor. +Column 2: Length of Tail. +Column 3: Colour of Meteor. +Column 4: Duration of Meteor. +Column 5: Duration of Tail. +Column 6: REMARKS. +Column 7: Observer. + +May 2 : 5 degrees : Yellow : 1 second : 3 seconds : Small, but + very bright. : west. + +The time should be very carefully noted. If there is anything in the +form that he does not understand he must ask me about it when he +writes. The altitude and azimuths will only be approximate, but the +main thing is to see how the shooting stars are situated with +reference to the fixed stars. It is of great importance to note +these meteors, even the small ones, as very little is yet known of +them; and every observation, if carefully made, will some day help +to show what they are. The object in noting the stars they pass by +is this: that if two or more observers see the same meteor from +places several miles from one another, the comparison of their +observations will generally give a means of ascertaining the +distance of the meteor from the earth. But it is getting late, and +I will write to Charley more about it by next mail; only tell him +to make himself well acquainted with the stars. Give my love to him +and Hannah, your aunt M., and old Anne; and tell me in your next +how the latter is getting on: and do not forget to let me know all +about Charley and how he spends his time. I am afraid that you +little girls take him out walking too much, and make him read +pretty stories instead of the books he ought to be studying. + +Your affectionate brother, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +. . . + +Magnetic Observatory, Melbourne, July 14th, 1859. + +MY DEAR MOTHER, + +The news by the last mail has put us all in a state of +excitement about our defenses, in the event of England being +involved in the continental war. Melbourne is badly situated in +case of an invasion. There is at present not the least protection; +and unless the home government sends us out two or three good war +steamers, we shall most certainly get a good thrashing some day. +The French have possession of the island of New Caledonia, which is +not very far from here, and is a convenient place of rendezvous for +them. I see by your letter to my father that you are rather afraid +the French may invade England. For my part I believe they have more +sense. It is the most hopeless thing they can attempt. I send you +two or three photographs; they are very poor, and not stereoscopic +as I intended. The artist made a failure of the matter and gave me +these. He is going to try it again some day with a better camera; +but as that would be too late for the mail I must send you these +now, and you may expect better next time. I find that the mail is +to close this afternoon instead of Monday morning, but if a +supplementary bag should be made up on Monday I will write again. I +hope that in future you will direct my letters to Melbourne instead +of Ballaarat, for I seldom get them until the return mail is about +to start. We have had some rather cold weather lately; that is, the +thermometer has been below thirty-two degrees once or twice, which +is cold for us. I am glad to hear that Charley has been appointed +to the Bank, as it is a good thing for all parties at present. I +fear that I shall be unable to send you a News Letter this time. I +wish you would tell me whether you find anything of interest in +them; also whether you would like to have the Argus sometimes. +Adieu for the present, my dear mother, + +Your affectionate son, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +. . . + +August 6th, 1859. + +MY DEAR MOTHER, + +You see I have sent you the News Letter for this month, with a +long account of an unfortunate shipwreck that happened on the coast +last month. It is a wonder how those passengers that were saved +managed to exist so long without food. The only reasonable +explanation that has been offered is, that as they were continually +wet, from the sea breaking over them, a large quantity of moisture +must have been absorbed by the skin, otherwise they could never +have lived so long without fresh water. It must have been an +awkward situation to be in. I fancy I would rather have been +drowned at once; but it is not easy to judge how we should feel +under the circumstances, unless we had tried it. As Pope says, +'Hope springs eternal in the human breast; man never is,' etc. (of +course you know the rest). It strikes me that the height of +happiness is, to hope everything and expect nothing, because you +have all the satisfaction of hope, and if you get nothing you are +not disappointed; but if you obtain what you want, you are +agreeably surprised. + +Your affectionate son, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +. . . + +Flagstaff Observatory, Melbourne, August 15th, 1859. + +MY DEAR MOTHER, + +I am glad to be able to acknowledge the receipt by this mail of +the first letter that you have sent to me direct since I have been +in Melbourne. It is satisfactory to know that you are pleased with +the News Letters; I must endeavour to send them regularly. I had a +letter from my father to-day. He has received yours, which we +feared was lost, as he saw nothing of it for some days after the +mail was in; but he found it at Bath's Hotel. One must make some +little allowance for a mother's partiality in your account of B. +and H.; I hope your prejudice against novels does not prevent their +reading those of Thackeray and Dickens, every one of whose works, +especially the former, should be read by them, for they contain +some of the best things, both in a moral and literary point of +view, that we have in the English language. I shall be more careful +in future about the postage; and now, my dear mother, with love to +yourself and all, + +I remain, + +Your affectionate son, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +. . . + +Flagstaff Observatory, Melbourne, September 15th, 1859. + +MY DEAR MOTHER, + +I was rather disappointed at not receiving a letter from any one +by the last mail. I have not heard from my father since it arrived. +I conclude he has not sent me your letters to him, thinking that I +have received some myself. I suppose you are all glad that the war +has ended so unexpectedly. It is to be hoped that the peace will be +a permanent one, although people here generally appear to think +that it will not prove so. The election of members for our lower +house will soon terminate. Judging from the results already known, +we are likely to have a curious Parliament this time. Our winter is +nearly over. Last night there was a festival held in honour of +Alexander von Humboldt. It was unfortunately a very wet evening, +which prevented a great many from attending who would otherwise +have been there. I hope you are all in good health. It would have +pleased you much to have seen the two splendid auroras, of which I +have sent Charley a description. At one time it was light enough to +read a newspaper out of doors, after the moon went down. I must now +say adieu. With much love to all, + +Believe me, my dear mother, + +Your affectionate son, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +. . . + +Melbourne, September 15th, 1859. + +MY DEAR CHARLEY, + +I send you by this mail two accounts of auroras, which we have +had the pleasure of observing here, one on the 28th ultimo, and the +other on the 2nd instant. I would recommend you to take care of +these papers, as you may find it very interesting to refer to them +at some future period. You will perhaps be so good as to let me +know by return of post whether anything of the kind was observed in +England about the same time; and be careful to state the dates and +hours, etc., as exactly as possible. You will find much, in the +reports I have sent you, to object to, in the manner of expression +and the words used; but you must make due allowance for their +having been written by a German (Professor Neumayer). I have +corrected some of the most prominent errors in the second. I wish +you would look out for every description of auroras that may appear +in the newspapers, as well as for the phenomena themselves. You +might always cut out the paragraphs, and put them in a letter; and +in the event of your seeing one yourself, you might write a +description, being particular to note the time of the different +phases as nearly as you can. By just taking this small amount of +trouble you will be rendering a much greater service to the science +of magnetism than you imagine; for one of the most important points +is to establish or prove the existence of a simultaneity in the +Northern and Southern Lights. + +If you have yet obtained those books that I told you some time ago +to get, you will find some elementary information on the subject in +them, particularly in Lardner's Museum of Science and Art. + +I suppose I shall hear by the next mail whether you have been able +to obtain for me Savage's Practical Astronomy. I want to trouble +you with another commission of the same kind, namely, to find out +whether there is a translation from the German into English of +Professor Carl Kreil's Introduction to Magnetic Observations, 2nd +edition, Vienna, 1858. I fear you will have some trouble in getting +this book for me, but it is of great importance that I should have +it if possible. It may not be translated yet, but it certainly will +be before long. Whenever you get any catalogues of scientific books +from the publishers in London, you might send them to me in a +letter; or if they are too bulky, you have only to put a strip of +paper round, and send it as a book, without letter or writing. The +postage is sixpence for four ounces, and threepence for every two +ounces more, up to three pounds, which is the greatest weight that +may be sent in one parcel; its dimensions must not exceed two feet +in any direction. + +They have just succeeded in raising the two thousand pounds here, +by subscription, that was wanted towards an exploration fund, for +fitting out an expedition, that will probably start for the +interior of our continent next March. Camels have been sent for, to +be used in places where horses cannot go. You would be astonished +at the number of applications that are being made by people anxious +to join the expedition. Nine-tenths of them would wish themselves +home again before they had been out three months. Give my love to +the two girls, and believe me, my dear Charley, + +Your affectionate brother, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +. . . + +Flagstaff Observatory, Melbourne, November 18th, 1859. + +MY DEAR MOTHER, + +The homeward mail closes in about half an hour, so that I have +very little time to write. The mail did not arrive here until a few +days ago, being more than a week after time. I was glad to receive +your short letter. We have had a very pleasant spring this year; +not so many hot winds as usual. I have mentioned in my letter to +B--that it is probable I shall be going up the country again in a +few months, but that need not make any difference in the address of +my letters, as Professor Neumayer will have the best opportunities +of forwarding them to me. We have lately had a visit from Dr. +Hochstelter, a German professor, who came out in the Novara, an +Austrian frigate, sent by the Austrian government to make a +scientific tour round the world. Dr. Hochstelter is a geologist, +and has made a geological survey of New Zealand. He exhibited a few +evenings ago at our philosophical institute a great number of maps +which he has compiled during the short time he remained on the +island, and stated many very interesting facts connected with them. +From what he says, there is no place in the world, except Iceland, +where boiling springs and geysers are so large and plentiful. The +doctor goes home by this mail, and I suppose there will soon be a +good work published by him, giving a description of all he has +seen. I hope to visit New Zealand as soon as I return from the +interior of this country. + +Ever your affectionate son, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +. . . + +It will be perceived by the foregoing letters how diligently +and anxiously he corresponded with his mother, sisters, and brother +in England, and how anxiously he desired the mental improvement of +the latter. In his next communications he prepares them for the +probability of his being one of the exploring party. Yet he wrote +on the subject as he had done to me, with reserve, until the matter +should be finally settled. He knew the anxiety it would occasion, +and in the event of his not obtaining the appointment he so +earnestly sought for, he wished to avoid creating that anxiety +unnecessarily. + +The same mail which bore his letter of the 18th of November to his +mother, carried also the following to his sister: + +MY DEAR BESSY, + +I do not mean to bother you with such a long letter this time as I +did last month, and which I hope reached you. I rather expected to +have received the photograph I wrote to you for by the last mail. I +wish you would indite some good long letters by return of post, as +it will probably be the last, or very nearly so, that I shall get +from you for many months. It seems very likely that I shall be +leaving Melbourne in March, to accompany the expedition for the +exploration of the interior of this continent. It is calculated +that we shall be away for about three years. It may be more, but it +is not likely to be much less. IT IS NOT YET CERTAIN that I shall +go. In fact, nothing is decided, not even who will be the leader; +but I thought it would be as well to mention it to you now, as your +answer to this cannot reach me until March. But remember that my +going away need not prevent your writing frequently; for it is +likely there will be occasional means of communication with +Melbourne for the first six months, and Professor Neumayer will +take every opportunity of forwarding my letters. It is quite +possible that I may not go, but it is more likely that I shall, as +Professor N. is very anxious that I should, to make magnetic and +meteorological observations, and he is on the Exploration +Committee. If you have not been able to get the books I wrote for, +for myself, you may as well leave them for the present. I have been +indulging greatly in operas lately. I can understand that sort of +music better than high-flown oratorios. The operatic company at the +Theatre Royal is not first-rate, but as good as we can expect to +have in a new colony like this. The pieces they have given are Il +Trovatore, Lucia di Lammermoor, Lucrezia Borgia, and La Sonnambula; +the latter is a delightful one, but they cannot manage it +satisfactorily, some of the songs are so difficult of execution. + +Please to give my love, etc., etc. + +Your affectionate brother, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +. . . + +The following reply to his mother alludes to the circumstance, which +she had mentioned, of an aurora borealis, having appeared in +England. This completes his letters for 1859. + +Flagstaff Observatory, December 18th, 1859. + +MY DEAR MOTHER, + +Your letter of the 17th of October arrived here by the Columbian +only three or four days after time, which is a wonderful piece of +punctuality for that miserable old tub. I am glad that you were so +much pleased with the sketch of the Observatory that I sent you. I +now forward a photograph made by a friend of mine, which will +convey a better idea than the other of the appearance of our +habitation, etc. You will find an explanation of the various parts +of the picture written in pencil on the back of each respectively. +You had better have it mounted on a piece of cardboard by some one +who is accustomed to mounting photographs; when nicely done it +looks twice as well. It was intended that we should all have been +taken in this picture, but owing to some mismanagement, no notice +was given, so no one was outside at the time. Your remarks about +the aurora borealis of the 12th of October were very interesting +and valuable. We knew that there was an aurora there, but of course +could not tell where it was visible. You little thought that while +you were looking at the vibrations of those beautiful streamers of +red and white light, I was watching sympathetic oscillations of +little steel magnets, which we suspended by silk threads, in the +underground magnetic house that you see the top of in the +foreground of the picture. The magnets were sometimes moving about +so rapidly that I could scarcely read them; and although the aurora +was with you nearly at an end probably about ten o'clock, yet the +magnets did not resume their normal position for nearly twenty-four +hours after. You will see from this the advantage to be derived +from noting all particulars with regard to these phenomena, +whenever one has an opportunity of seeing them; for we must always +consider the possibility of their not being visible at places where +there are observatories, on account of clouds and other causes. One +great point that has yet to be satisfactorily determined is, +whether the effect on a magnet at one end of the world is +simultaneous with the auroral discharge at the other; or whether a +certain time is required for the effect to be communicated through +the earth. I had a letter from my father yesterday, enclosing the +one you sent him. By-the-by, this day week is Christmas-day; and, +if I am not mistaken, your birthday as well as Hannah's is near +about this time. She must be thirteen or fourteen; but, upon my +honour, I do not certainly know my own age. Was I born in January +1834 or 1835? I wish you all may have a merry Christmas and many +returns of the same. Please to give my love as usual, and + +Believe me, my dear mother, + +Your affectionate son, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +CHAPTER 5. + +Postponement of the Exploring Expedition projected at the beginning +of 1860. My Son's Letter to his Sister on going into Society. Mr. +Birnie's Opinion of him, and Extract from his Lecture. Letter from +William to his Mother on Religious Views and Definitions of Faith. +His last Communications to his family at Home, before the Departure +of the Expedition. + +I OMIT my son's letters of January and February, 1860, as they +contain nothing on scientific matters, or on the subject of +Australia, although interesting in other respects. They mark the +habitual tone of his feelings and principles, his constant habit of +self-examination, his study of his fellow-men, and how strongly he +was impressed with the truth of Pope's grand conclusion, that + + "Virtue alone is happiness below." + +"You will be glad to learn," he says, writing to his mother on the +17th of March, "that the Exploring Expedition is postponed for six +months, for want of a suitable leader, as none of the candidates +who offered their services were thought qualified in a scientific +point of view. [Footnote: Oddly enough, Mr. Burke, who was +afterwards chosen, with many requisites of a high order, was +deficient in this, which, indeed, he never for a moment pretended +to possess.] You need not work yourself up to such a state of +excitement at the bare idea of my going, but should rather rejoice +that the opportunity presents itself. The actual danger is nothing, +and the positive advantages very great. Besides, my dear mother, +what avails your faith if you terrify yourself about such trifles? +Were we born, think you, to be locked up in comfortable rooms, and +never to incur the hazard of a mishap? If things were at the worst, +I trust I could meet death with as much resignation as others, even +if it came to-night. I am often disgusted at hearing young people I +know, declare that they are afraid of doing this or that, because +they MIGHT be killed. Were I in some of their shoes I should be +glad to hail the chance of departing this life fairly in the +execution of an honourable duty." + +The following selections from his numerous letters at this time are +little more than extracts, and form but a small portion of the +whole. All speak his admiration of a great and beneficent Creator, +derived from the study of his works. He had a great distaste for +sectarianism, and for a too slavish devotion to forms and +conventionalities, whether in religious or social practice, fearing +lest these extremes might savour of untruthfulness or hypocrisy. + +Magnetic Observatory, Melbourne, April 18th, 1860. + +MY DEAR BESSY, + +The mail was to have closed to-morrow, but the Emeu has met with an +accident which will delay it for another week, so that I hope to +treat you to a long letter. I was much disappointed at receiving +nothing from you this month. It would be a first-rate plan to do +what a friend of mine was recommending to me only this evening, +namely to commence an epistle at the beginning of each month, and +add a little daily, adopting as your motto the Latin proverb, +"Nulla dies sine linea," which means, No day without a line. You +might at least favour me with a few monthly. It would be as much +for your own benefit as for my pleasure. Pray don't send a poor +excuse again about waiting for an answer to a former letter. + +I must now return to the subject of my last. I hope you have +carefully considered the remarks contained therein; and I wish to +draw your attention to other matters not so immediately connected +with religion, but which may seriously affect your prosperity and +happiness in this world. I fear that mamma is too much inclined to +discourage your going into society. If so, with all due deference +to my dear mother's experience and judgment, she has adopted a +mistaken view. You will perhaps say, you do not care for society. +So much the worse; that proves the evil of seclusion. I had the +same ideas once, and greatly to my disadvantage in a general sense, +although in one point they may have been beneficial, by making me +devote more time to my studies. But I am doubtful even about that. +At any rate, girls are differently situated. Having no need of deep +scientific knowledge, their education is confined more to the +ordinary things of the world, the study of the fine arts, and of +the manners and dispositions of people. It is often asserted that +women are much sharper than men in estimating character. Whether +that be the case or not, is more than I can say, but I think it +ought to be, because women have better opportunities and more +leisure than we have for noticing little peculiarities and the +natural expression of the features. Now, my advice would be, to go +as much as you can into quiet, good society, and moderately into +gay; not to make it the business of life, as some do, who care for +little beyond frivolous amusements, and that merely for the sake of +killing time. But go to these places, even if you do not like them, +as a duty you owe to yourself and others, even as you used to go to +school, when you would rather have remained at home. + +You should cultivate, as much as possible, the acquaintance of +ladies from other parts of the country, especially of those who +have travelled much. This is the best way of rubbing off +provincialisms, etc. Perhaps you think you have none; nevertheless +I shall be prepared for some whenever I have the felicity of seeing +you. You cannot think how disagreeable the sound of the Devonshire +drawl is to me now, and all people of the county that I meet have +it more or less. You will, no doubt, wonder how I have become so +changed, and what has induced me to adopt social views so different +from those I formerly held. The fact is, that since I have been +here, I have been thrown into every variety of companionship, from +the highest to the lowest, from the educated gentleman and scholar +to the uncultivated boor. The first effect was, a disposition to +admire the freedom and bluntness of the uncivilized; but more +personal experience showed me the dark as well as the bright side, +and brought out in their due prominence the advantages of the +conventionalities of good society. While in the bush, this +conviction only impressed itself partially, but a return to town +extended and confirmed it. When we are in daily contact and +intercourse with an immense number of persons, some of whom we +like, while we dislike or feel indifferent about many others, we +find a difficulty in avoiding one man's acquaintance without +offending him, or of keeping another at a distance without an +insult. It is not easy to treat your superiors with respect void of +sycophancy, or to be friendly with those you prefer, and at the +same time to steer clear of undue familiarity, adapting yourself to +circumstances and persons, and, in fact, doing always the right +thing at the proper time and in the best possible manner. I used to +be rather proud of saying that it was necessary for strangers to +know me for some time before they liked me. I am almost ashamed now +not to have had sense enough to see that this arose from sheer +awkwardness and stupidity on my part; from the absence of address, +and a careless disregard of the rules of society, which necessarily +induce a want of self-confidence, a bashful reserve, annoying to +sensible people and certainly not compensated for by the possession +of substantial acquirements, hidden, but not developed, and +unavailable when wanted. I find now that I can get into the good +graces of any one with whom I associate better in half an hour than +I could have done in a week two years ago. I know no one who puts +these matters in a better light than Lord Chesterfield in his +Letters to his Son, which you most probably have read. + +Since I wrote to you last, I have received some light on the +subject of FAITH, which I was not at that time aware of. In a +discussion with a gentleman on religious matters, some remarks were +made upon faith and charity, which led to an analysis of the +original Greek word used to express the former by St. Paul, which +has been translated "faith," and is generally accepted in the +ordinary sense we attach to that word in English; namely, an +implicit trust in what you are told, without question or doubt. But +this friend of mine, who is a splendid Greek scholar, called my +attention to the fact that the Greek word, for which we have no +exact equivalent, means an openness to conviction, or a willingness +to receive after proper proof; not a determination to believe +without investigation. He also pointed out to me what I was less +prepared to hear, that the charity spoken of does not mean, as I +supposed it to express, conscientiousness, but love and +good fellowship, in action and speech; in fact, more in accordance +with the sense in which the word is commonly understood. This will +show you the evil of coming to conclusions on insufficient data. +Depend upon it, you must always hear both sides of a story before +you can get at the truth. + +I am going out to dinner this evening expressly to meet two of the +finest girls in Melbourne. Some of my cautious friends say that I +am running a great risk, and that I shall never recover from the +effects. I cannot say that I feel much frightened. If anything +serious should happen, and the consequences are not immediately +fatal, I shall add a few lines to-morrow. Look sharp about +photographs. I begin to suspect you are ashamed to show your faces +in this remote region. Give my love to H., C., etc., and accept the +same from + +Your ever affectionate brother, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +P.S. 19th.--The elements interposed to save me from the danger I +wilfully determined not to avoid. It rained so heavily last evening +that the syrens stayed at home. + +. . . + +In the month of May 1860, I went to Melbourne for a few days, +and spent many pleasant hours with my son. I found him contented and +happy. His appointment to the Exploring Expedition, so long the +yearning desire of his heart, he appeared to consider as a fait +accompli. He was in comfortable lodgings, and had established an +intimacy with a gentleman of superior literary acquirements, +personally acquainted with many London celebrities of our day. I +remember the delight with which he came to my hotel and said: "You +must dine with me to-day; I want to introduce you to a person you +will much like. His greatest fault is one you possess yourself, a +turn for satire, which sometimes makes him enemies." On the same +morning he had announced to his friend with beaming eyes, "My +father is here;" and when the next day that same friend wished to +engage him to an evening party, he replied: "You forget that I have +a wild young father to take care of." Alluding again to this, in a +letter to his mother, on the 17th of May, he says: "You must excuse +a brief epistle this time. The Doctor has been in town for a few +days lately, and of course seduced me into all sorts of wild +habits. He is looking well, in good condition, but not so fat as he +was two years ago." At that time I had been living very frequently +on little more than one hard egg per day. Milk and coffee in the +morning, and half a pound of meat twice a week. In another letter +to his mother, shortly after the above date, he says: "I have not +heard from my father for the last fortnight. I am in very good +lodgings, at a boarding-house, not working hard, and have time to +cultivate some agreeable society. The landlady is all that can be +desired and more than could be expected--the company far above the +average. There is Mr. B., a barrister and Cambridge man, first +rate; and a nice old lady, Mrs. F., very intelligent and +good-natured. We three are great friends. Taking it altogether, the +house is so comfortable, that I did not go to the theatre once last +month." The mutual good opinion may be estimated by the following +introduction from the gentleman alluded to above, to the Colonial +Secretary at Perth, in the event of his explorations leading my son +to Western Australia: + +"I pray your hospitality for Mr. W. J. Wills, for whom I have a +very high esteem and friendship. He makes me happy beyond flattery +by permitting me to think that I add something to his life. You +cannot fail to like him. He is a thorough Englishman, self-relying +and self-contained; a well-bred gentleman without a jot of +effeminacy. Plucky as a mastiff, high-blooded as a racer, +enterprising but reflective, cool, keen, and as composed as daring. +Few men talk less; few by manner and conduct suggest more. One +fault you will pardon, a tendency to overrate the writer of this +letter." + +This gentleman, Mr. Birnie, is a son of the late Sir Richard +Birnie, so long an eminent police magistrate in London. At the +close of a lecture which he gave at Ballaarat on the 24th of May, +1862, subsequent to the disastrous intelligence of my son's death, +he introduced the following remarks, as reported in a colonial +paper:-- + +If amusement and gravity might be held compatible, they would +bear with him in pronouncing the name of William John Wills. +(Cheers.) The lecturer, when first in Melbourne, lived at a +boarding-house, and there he met Wills. Their friendship soon grew +and strengthened, in spite of the difference of their ages. Of the +man as a public explorer, everybody knew as well as he did. +Professor Neumayer said that Wills's passion for astronomy was +astonishing, and that his nights were consumed in the study. Yet +his days also were spent in enlarging his literary attainments. But +with all this labour, Wills never disregarded the commoner duties +and virtues of life. Even at the breakfast-table he was as neat and +clean as a woman. At the ball, of which he was as fond as a child, +he was scrupulously temperate, and in speech pure as a lady. Wills +read Sharon Turner, Hazlitt, Pope, Wordsworth, Tennyson, and +commented on all. Of Tennyson's In Memoriam he said it was +wonderful for its frequent bordering on faults without ever +reaching them. He was a student of literature as well as of +astronomy and science. Much intercourse they had had, and when the +lecturer heard of his death he felt glad that nothing existed for +recrimination or self condemnation. Wills was a great admirer of +Shakespeare, and his remarks on that author were original and +striking. This tribute the lecturer would lay upon his friend's +bust, and humble though the offering was he felt it would be +accepted. The lecturer with much feeling concluded a peroration of +eloquent eulogy upon his deceased friend, amid the loud and +prolonged applause of the audience, who had cheered him at frequent +intervals throughout the whole of his discourse. + +Mr. McDowall moved a vote of thanks to the lecturer, seconded by +Mr. Dimant, both gentlemen highly complimenting Mr. Birnie for his +kindness in giving his services on the occasion. + +The vote was carried by acclamation, and Mr. Birnie, in +acknowledging it, implored the audience not to let the movement die +away. The proposed monument could not be too good for the fame of +the heroic explorers, and particularly as commemorating the +patient, pious, unselfish manliness of Wills to the latest moment +of his life. (Cheers.) + +The proceedings then closed. + +. . . + +In his ordinary letters to me, and in his journals of +the Expedition, which he knew were likely to become public +documents, my son seldom or never touched upon the all-important +subject of religion. This has given rise to an opinion broadly +hinted in Australia by some, and of course believed by more, that +he was either a sceptic or a downright infidel. Nothing could be +further from the truth. His mother's love had instructed him early +and zealously in the doctrines of Christianity, and prepared his +mind for a conviction of their divine truth when he reached an age +which would enable him to exercise his own judgment. As I have +already mentioned, even in childhood he had an inquiring mind and a +disposition to take nothing for granted without investigation. +Hence the questions which sometimes surprised and puzzled his +instructress. The tendency grew with his growth, and displayed +itself in his mode of dealing with every branch of knowledge +comprised in his education. If a new fact in science or an +improvement in a mathematical or surgical instrument came under his +observation, he closely examined their bearing and use before he +adopted them or subscribed to their truth or utility. Those who +question before they believe are not unfrequently pronounced +unbelievers because they question; an inverted mode of reasoning +equally uncharitable and illogical. My son had an undisguised +dislike to any ostentatious display of religious sentiment and +phraseology, particularly on the part of those who were not +teachers by calling. He sometimes suspected more cant than +sincerity in the practice, and thought these matters better suited +for inward communication between man and his Maker than for public +exhibition on common occasions. With my wife's permission I insert +the following letter, now for the first time placed in my hands:-- + +Flagstaff Observatory, Melbourne, June 17th, 1860. + +MY DEAR MOTHER, + +The mail arrived here only two or three days ago, being nearly +a fortnight behind time. I have received your letter of the 13th of +April, and one from Bessy. Your endeavours to show that my remarks +on religion were wrong, have tended to convince me more clearly +that I was right, and that you, partially at least, misunderstood +what I said. I did not charge you with being openly uncharitable or +of plainly condemning any one; nor do I blame you for believing you +are right. We all think we are right, or we should not believe as +we do. But I do blame those who pronounce everybody wrong but +themselves; for as far as we can judge, one may be as near the +truth as another. How often we hear VERY religious people, +compassionately remarking upon a neighbour's death: "Ah, poor dear +fellow, he was such a good sort of man! I hope and trust he died in +the faith!" meaning, of course, their own peculiar tenets, and +obliquely implying that, in spite of all his estimable qualities, +they have great doubts of his salvation. For my part, I consider +this as bad as the outspoken uncharitableness of bigots and +persecutors in the olden days. The inference may be true, but it is +not we who have a right to think, much less to utter it. + +But I must now come to the more precise point on which we +differ--the meaning of a single expression, which I think I have +named in a former letter. I allude to the word FAITH, which, as I +was always taught to interpret it, appeared to my apprehension +analogous to CREDULITY, or a blind belief without question;--an +explanation which went against my conscience and conviction +whenever it occurred to me from time to time. As I grew older I +felt it to be wrong, although I was not sufficiently informed to +explain it differently. What perplexed me was that St. Paul should +advocate such a servile submission of the intellectual faculties +which God has bestowed upon man; such an apparent degradation of +the human mind to the level of the lower creation as to call upon +us to lay aside our peculiar attributes of reason, common sense, +and reflection, and to receive without inquiry any doctrine that +may be offered to us. On this principle, we should be as likely to +believe in the impostor as in the true saint, and having yielded up +our birthright of judgment, become incapable of distinguishing +between them. I have thought much on the subject with the +assistance of better authorities and scholars than myself, and will +now endeavour to explain what I consider St. Paul meant by FAITH, +or rather by the Greek word Piotis, which has been so translated. +After you have read my explanation, and carefully examined your own +mind, will it be too much to expect an admission that of the three +great elements of Christianity, faith, hope, and charity, you have +hitherto had more of hope than of the other two? The Greek word +used by St. Paul signifies something more than faith, or implicit +belief, as many render it. It means a self-reliant confidence +arising from conviction after investigation and study--the faith +that Paley advocates when he says, "He that never doubted never +half believed." It implies, in the first place, an unprejudiced +mind, an openness to conviction, and a readiness to receive +instruction; and then a desire to judge for ourselves. This must be +followed by a patient investigation of evidence pro and con, an +impartial summing up, and a conclusion fairly and confidently +deduced. If we are thus convinced, then we have acquired faith--a +real, unshakeable faith, for we have carefully examined the title +deeds and know that they are sound. You will surely see that faith +in this sense, and credulity, a belief without inquiry, are the +very reverse of each other, and how much superior is the former to +the latter. Credulity is a mere feather, liable to be blown about +with every veering wind of doctrine. Faith, as St. Paul means it, +is as firm as a castle on a rock, where the foundations have been +carefully examined and tested, before the building was proceeded +with. + +In collateral evidence of what I have just said, I may instance the +often-repeated injunction to accept things as little children; +which cannot mean with the ignorance and helpless submission of +infancy, but with minds free from bigotry, bias, or prejudice, like +those of little children, and with an inclination, like them, to +receive instruction. At what period of life do any of us learn so +rapidly and eagerly as in childhood? We acquire new ideas every +time we open our eyes; we are ever attracted by something we have +not observed before; every moment adds to our knowledge. If you +give a child something to eat it has not been accustomed to, does +it swallow it at once without examination? Does it not rather look +at, smell, feel, and then taste it? And if disagreeable, will it +eat merely because the new food was given to it for that purpose? +On the contrary, it is more inclined to reject the gift until +influenced by your eating some yourself, or by other modes of +persuasion. Let us then, in like manner, examine all that is +offered to our belief, and test it by the faculties with which the +great God has endowed us. These rare senses and powers of reasoning +were given to be used freely, but not audaciously, to discover, not +to pervert the truth. Why were so many things presented as through +a veil, unless to stimulate our efforts to clear away the veil, and +penetrate to the light? I think it is plain that St. Paul, while he +calls upon us to believe, never intended that we should be +passively credulous. [Footnote: My son might have further enforced +his view by a passage from St. Paul, 1 Thessalonians, chapter 5 +verse 21, had it occurred to him: "Prove all things; hold fast that +which is good." By this the apostle implies, according to +Archbishop Secker's commentary, all things which may be right or +wrong according to conscience. And by "proving them" he means, not +that we should try them by experience, which would be an absurd and +pernicious direction, but that we should examine them by our +faculty of judgment, which is a wise and useful exhortation.] +Credulity was one of the most prominent engines of the Romish +Church, but there was a trace of sense in their application of it. +They taught that the ignorant and uneducated should have faith in +the doctrines introduced to them by their betters, and those who +had found time to investigate the matter; but some, in the present +day, support the monstrous delusion that enlightened and +well-trained intellects, the most glorious of all the earthly gifts +of God, should bow to canting and illiterate fanaticism. . . + +Adieu for the present, my dear mother, and believe me ever +your affectionate, and I hope unbigoted son, + +W.J. WILLS. + +. . . + +This letter was the last but two he ever addressed to his mother, +and I have not transcribed the whole. It is long and discursive, +considering how much he had on his hands at that time, and how +completely he was occupied with the pending expedition. In his next +he refers to some apprehensions expressed by maternal solicitude +that his religious convictions might be altered by a friend who +entertained extremely different views. "I intended, my dear +mother," he says, "to have replied at length to one of the remarks +in your last, but I fear I must be very brief. Your idea that I am +influenced by--'s notions of religion is amusingly erroneous. I +never imagined that I could have written anything to warrant such +an impression; but it shows how careful we should be to make clear +statements so as to avoid being misunderstood. Mr.--'s religion is +to my mind supremely ridiculous; I can only find two points in its +favour, namely, its charity and moral principles. But these, +although admirable in themselves, do not go far towards proving the +truth of the theological notions entertained by its adherents. I +can assure you that such ideas of religion are quite as far removed +from mine as yours can be." His final letter announces the +certainty of his being about to start on the enterprise so long +projected. He had hitherto withheld the fact, from a wish not to +distress his mother unnecessarily while there was a chance that any +unforeseen obstacle might create further delay. + +Flagstaff Observatory, Melbourne, July 25th, 1860. + +MY DEAR MOTHER, + +I am glad to be able to inform you of a matter that you perhaps +will not much like, although I do not know why you should object to +it. It is that we expect to start on this exploration trip in a few +weeks. You will find some particulars on the subject in the Argus +that I have sent to Charles. I fancy we shall not be away so long +as was at first intended; probably not more than twelve or eighteen +months. I anticipate being able to send you a letter sometimes, as +well as to receive yours to me, as they propose keeping up a +communication with Cooper's Creek. Professor Neumayer will probably +accompany us as far as the Darling River, taking an opportunity, at +the same time, to prosecute the magnetic survey. This will make +matters very pleasant, as well as being of great advantage to me in +many respects. We shall be travelling through the country in the +most favourable and pleasant season, when there is plenty of water, +and everything fresh and green. It will take us about two months to +get to Cooper's Creek. I do not give up my position in the +Observatory, having obtained leave of absence for the time during +which we may be engaged in the exploration. I am sorry I cannot +give you more particulars respecting our projected tour, but you +will hear enough about it by-and-by. I received a letter from my +father a day or two since, in which he speaks of coming down before +I start. I do not expect to have time to go to Ballaarat before we +leave. I sent you by the last mail one or two small photographs of +myself, and a locket for Bessy, which she asked me for some time +ago. I hope they arrived safely. There was also a photograph of my +father on paper. I have to thank some one, name unknown, for the +Totnes papers that I received by the last mail. They appear to be +well edited, and are decidedly a credit to the town. I had heard of +the paper before, but did not expect to find it so good as it is. I +suppose you have had a favourable view of the comet that has made +its appearance lately. It was visible here for about a week: at +first it was of a good size, but being so low down in the west, at +sunset it could only be seen for a short time, and then it was +comparatively dim, owing to the twilight. Since then it has rapidly +disappeared, moving in an east-south-easterly direction. With you +it was probably very fine. With kind love, etc., etc., + +Believe me, my dear mother, + +Your affectionate son, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +CHAPTER 6. + +THE EXPEDITION. + +How the Expedition originated. +Appointment of the Leader, Officers, and Party. +Mr. Robert O'Hara Burke, Mr. G.J. Landells, Mr. W.J. Wills, + Dr. Herman Beckler, Dr. Ludwig Becker, etc. +The Expedition starts from Melbourne on the 20th of August, 1860. +Progress to Swan Hill. +Discharge of Mr. Ferguson, the Foreman. +Advance to Menindie. +Resignation of Mr. Landells and Dr. Herman Beckler. +Mr. Wills promoted to second in Command, and Mr. Wright to third. + +THE Exploring Expedition of 1860 originated thus. A gentleman, +whose name is still concealed, offered one thousand pounds as an +inducement to the Government and other parties to come forward and +raise funds for an exploration of the island continent, now known +as Australia, but formerly as New Holland; the vast interior of +which had been supposed to be a desert, an inland sea, or anything +that a poetical imagination might suggest. Attempts had been made, +but always with insufficient means, and on too contracted a scale, +to solve the problem. It was now for Victoria to take up the +question in earnest. The 1000 pounds of the unknown contributor, +increased to 2200 pounds by private subscriptions, with 6000 pounds +voted by the colonial legislature, supplied in all a sum of above +9000 pounds for the prosecution of this great national enterprise. +Let Victoria, then, receive the honour so justly her due, for an +undertaking only on a par with her characteristic spirit of +advancement. Any stranger who visits Melbourne, a place but of +yesterday, must be struck by the magnificent scale and number of +the public buildings. Let him look at the Churches, Library, House +of Parliament, University and Museum, Railways and Parks, Banks, +Hotels, Theatres, Botanical Gardens, [Footnote: Under the charge of +that noble father of industry, Dr. Mueller.] etc., and then call to +mind that all this is the growth of less than a quarter of a +century, and that the existence of the colony dates from a period +subsequent to the accession of our beloved Queen. + +The arrangements for the expedition were in progress from 1858 to +1860, under Mr. O'Shannassy, a man far above the common order, who +now fills the superior office of Chief Colonial Secretary. He +entered into the object with his own peculiar zeal. On his personal +responsibility, Mr. Landells, who figures in this narrative, as +also in a preceding one, with little credit, was despatched to +India to procure camels, those ships of the desert, whose aid in +traversing the unknown interior was expected to prove invaluable. +"The camels are come!" was the cry when these new and interesting +immigrants made their first appearance in Melbourne. All the people +were en the qui vive. "What was to be done next? Who was to be the +leader? When would the party start?" Mr. Nicholson had by this time +taken the place of Mr. O'Shannassy, and he hit on the unfortunate +expedient of delegating to the Royal Society of Melbourne the +direction of this important expedition. I say unfortunate, because, +by this arrangement, the opinions to be consulted were too numerous +to expect unanimity. It is true they elected a special committee, +which included some who were well qualified for the duty, and +others who were less so; but, good or bad, the old adage of "too +many cooks" was verified in this instance. Had they all been +excellent judges, the course was still objectionable, as divided +responsibility falls on no one. + +The first point to be settled was the choice of a leader. Meeting +after meeting was held, and I must do them the justice to say that, +on the whole, no thoroughly unexceptionable candidate offered +himself. The necessary combination of physical and scientific +requisites was not readily found. The question therefore fell into +abeyance for a time on that account. But at length, and after a +considerable delay, Robert O'Hara Burke, Esquire, police inspector +at the Beechworth district, and afterwards at Castlemaine, was +appointed to the post. He was in his fortieth year, experienced, +active, and well-connected, of one of the old Galway families, and +had held a commission as lieutenant in the Austrian army; on +quitting which service, he procured an appointment in the Irish +constabulary. There he was so beloved by his men, that several +resigned when he left for Australia and accompanied him, in the +hope of still serving under their favourite commander. He was a +brave and true man, covetous of honour, but careless of profit; one +who would have sought reputation "even in the cannon's mouth." With +his name that of my poor son is indelibly conjoined. From all I +have since collected from King, their only surviving companion, Mr. +Burke loved my son as a brother; and William, writing of him, says: +"The more I see of Mr. Burke the more I like him;" and he wrote +with caution, adopted no hasty opinions, and seldom changed them +when once formed. + +Mr. Burke's appointment called forth discussions and strong +comments in the Melbourne papers. Gentlemen who considered their +own qualifications as superior to his, and their friends who +thought with them, expressed their opinions with more ardour than +justice or delicacy in their respective organs. The committee of +management, selected originally from the "Royal Society of +Melbourne," now became united to another body called "The +Exploration Fund Committee." The board comprised the following +members:--Chairman, the Honourable Sir William Stawell, one of the +Justices of Victoria; Vice-Chairman, the Honourable John Hodgson, +M.L.C.; Treasurer, the Honourable Dr. Wilkie; Secretary, the +Honourable Dr. Macadam; Dr. Embling;--Ligar, Esquire, Surveyor +General; James Smith, Esquire; Professor McCoy; Dr. McKenna; +Professor Neumayer; Sizar Elliott, Esquire; Dr. Mueller; Dr. Iffla; +Captain Cadell; Angus McMillan, Esquire; A. Selwyn, Esquire; John +Watson, Esquire; Reverend Mr. Blensdale; Dr. Eades; Dr. Gilbee, +Deputy-Surveyor; and--Hodgkinson, Esquire The commander being +appointed, the next step was to name the second. This choice, by a +sad mistake, fell on Mr. G.J. Landells, who owed his preferment to +the circumstance of his having been employed to bring the camels +from India. His services, therefore, were considered indispensable +for their management in Australia. Having convinced the committee +of this, he demanded a salary considerably exceeding that of the +leader, or refused to go. When Mr. Burke found that this point was +to be discussed at the next meeting, he, with his usual high and +liberal spirit, requested that no obstacle might be raised on that +account. We shall presently see how Mr. Landells repaid his leader, +and proved himself worthy of this disinterestedness. My son +tendered his services as astronomer and guide, not at the moment +thinking of or desiring any distinct post of command, his object +being exclusively scientific. He had been for some time assistant +to Professor Neumayer at the Magnetic Observatory, was a seasoned +bushman, with great powers of endurance, and felt that he could +discharge the duties he wished to undertake. He was not aware, +until I informed him on his going into the Society's room to sign +the contract, that any command had been allotted to him, neither +did he stipulate for salary; but in consequence of Dr. Ludwig +Becker demanding an advance of pay, on the sum first fixed, my +son's was raised from 250 to 300 pounds per annum. The next +appointments were Dr. Ludwig Becker, as naturalist and artist, and +Dr. Herman Beckler as botanist and medical adviser to the +expedition. These were scarcely more fortunate than that of Mr. +Landells. The first named of these gentlemen was physically +deficient, advanced in years, and his mode of life in Melbourne had +not been such as to make up for his want of youth. I do not mean to +imply by this that he indulged in irregular or dissipated habits. +He possessed a happy gift of delineating natural objects with the +pencil, but died before passing the boundaries of civilization, +from causes unconnected with want or fatigue. Dr. Herman Beckler, +who has since returned to his native country, was neither a man of +courage, energy, nor of medical experience. He resigned when Mr. +Landells did, and, as will be seen, for a very poor reason. His +place should have been immediately supplied; for had any one worth +a straw been sent, by his position he must have been third in +command instead of Wright, a more ignorant being than whom could +not have been extracted from the bush. He was scarcely able to +write his name. + +The following is a copy of the memorandum of agreement, to which +all the members of the Exploration party attached their signatures: +-- + +MEMORANDUM OF AGREEMENT, + +Made the eighteenth day of August, in the year of our Lord one +thousand eight hundred and sixty, between the Honourable David +Elliott Wilkie, as treasurer of the Exploration Committee of the +Royal Society, Melbourne, of the one part, and the several other +persons whose names are hereto subscribed, of the other part. The +said persons forming an expedition about to explore the interior of +Australia under Robert O'Hara Burke, hereby agree with the said +David Elliott Wilkie faithfully to discharge the special duties +described opposite to their respective names, and also generally to +perform whatever in the opinion of the said Robert O'Hara Burke, as +leader, or in the event of his death, in the opinion of the leader +for the time being, may be necessary to promote the success of the +expedition: and they hereby further agree to place themselves +unreservedly under the orders of the leader, recognising George +James Landells as second; and William John Wills as third; and +their right of succession in the order thus stated. In +consideration of the above services being efficiently discharged, +the said David Elliott Wilkie, as treasurer, and on behalf of the +said committee, hereby agrees to pay the said persons the salaries, +at the respective rates set opposite their names; such salaries to +be paid by monthly instalments, not exceeding one-half the amount +then due, on a certificate from the leader that the services have +been efficiently performed up to the date; and the remainder on and +rateably up to the day of the return of the expedition to +Melbourne, and no more. And each of the said persons hereby lastly +agrees, on failure on his part fully to perform this agreement, +that his salary shall be forfeited, and that he shall abide all +consequences, the power of discharge vesting with the leader, and +the power of dismissal and forfeiture of salary resting on the +recommendation of the leader with the said David Elliott Wilkie, +acting with the consent of the said committee. In witness whereof +the said parties have hereunto set their hands the day and year +above written. + +George James Landells--in charge of camels, second in command. + +William John Wills--as surveyor and astronomical observer, third in +command. + +Herman Beckler--medical officer and botanist. + +Ludwig Becker--artist, naturalist, and geologist. + +Charles J. Ferguson--foreman. + +Thomas F. McDonagh--assistant. + +William Paton--assistant. + +Patrick Langan--assistant. + +Owen Cowan--assistant. + +William Brake--assistant. + +Robert Fletcher--assistant. + +John King--assistant. + +Henry Creher--assistant. + +John Dickford--assistant. + +And three sepoys. + +Signed by all the above in the presence of + +JOHN MACADAM, M.D. + +ROBERT DICKSON. + +Monday, the 20th of August, 1860, will be a memorable day in the +annals of Melbourne, as recording the commencement of the +expedition. It was not a false start but a bona-fide departure. +Nearly the whole population suspended ordinary business and turned +out to witness the imposing spectacle. The camels were a great +attraction. The Melbourne Herald of the 21st gave the annexed +description of the proceedings:-- + +Tom Campbell, in a tender moment, sang a sweet hymn to a +"Name Unknown," and many an ardent youth in and since his time, has +borrowed inspiration from the dulcet numbers of the familiar bard, +and allowed his imagination to run riot in "castle-building" upon +this simple theme. Had we the poet's gift, our enthusiasm might, +doubtless, prompt us to extol in more lofty strain the praises of +the "great unknown"--the donor of the handsome instalment of one +thousand pounds towards the organization of an expedition to +explore the terra incognita of interior Australia. But in the +absence of the favour of the Muses, dull prose must serve the +purpose we have in view. If the "unknown" were present yesterday in +the Royal Park, his heart must have leaped for very joy, as did +with one accord the hearts of the "ten thousand" or more of our +good citizens, who there assembled to witness the departure of the +Exploring Expedition. Never have we seen such a manifestation of +heartfelt interest in any public undertaking of the kind as on this +occasion. The oldest dwellers in Australia have experienced nothing +to equal it. + +At an early hour crowds of eager holiday folks, pedestrian and +equestrian, were to be seen hieing along the dusty ways to the +pleasant glades and umbrageous shade (a warm breeze; the first of +the season, was blowing from the north-east) of the Royal Park. A +busy scene was there presented. Men, horses, camels, drays, and +goods, were scattered here and there amongst the tents, in the +sheds, and on the greensward, in picturesque confusion;--everything +premised a departure--the caravansery was to be deserted. Hour +after hour passed in the preparations for starting. By-and-by, +however, the drays were loaded--though not before a burden of three +hundred-weight for each camel at starting was objected to, and +extra vehicles had to be procured--the horses and the camels were +securely packed, and their loads properly adjusted. Artists, +reporters, and favoured visitors were all the time hurrying and +scurrying hither and thither to sketch this, to take a note of +that, and to ask a question concerning t'other. It is needless to +say, that occasionally ludicrous replies were given to serious +questions, and in the bustle of hurried arrangements, some very +amusing contretemps occurred. One of the most laughable was the +breaking loose of a cantankerous camel, and the startling and +upsetting in the "scatter" of a popular limb of the law. The +gentleman referred to is of large mould, and until we saw his +tumbling feat yesterday, we had no idea that he was such a +sprightly gymnast. His down-going and up-rising were greeted with +shouts of laughter, in which he good-naturedly joined. The erring +camel went helter-skelter through the crowd, and was not secured +until he showed to admiration how speedily can go "the ship of the +desert." + +It was exactly a quarter to four o'clock when the expedition got +into marching order. A lane was opened through the crowd, and in +this the line was formed; Mr. Burke on his pretty little grey at +the head. The Exploration Committee of the Royal Society, together +with a distinguished circle of visitors, amongst whom were several +of our most respectable colonists and their families, took up a +position in front. + +The MAYOR OF MELBOURNE then mounted one of the drays, and said: Mr. +Burke--I am fully aware that the grand assemblage, this day, while +it has impeded your movements in starting, is at the same time a +source of much gratification to you. It assures you of the most +sincere sympathy of the citizens. (Hear, hear.) I will not detain +you; but for this great crowd, and on behalf of the colony at +large, I say--God speed, you! (Cheers.) His Worship then called for +"three cheers for Mr. Burke," "three cheers for Mr. Landells," and +"three cheers for the party itself," which, it is needless to say, +were responded to with all the energy and enthusiasm that are the +characteristics of popular assemblages. He then concluded with +again saying, "God speed and bless you!" + +Mr. BURKE (uncovered) said, in a clear earnest voice that was heard +all over the crowd: + +Mr. Mayor,--On behalf of myself and the Expedition I beg to return +you my most sincere thanks. No expedition has ever started under +such favourable circumstances as this. The people, the Government, +the committee--all have done heartily what they could do. It is now +our turn; and we shall never do well till we justify what you have +done in showing what we can do. (Cheers.) + +The party at once got into motion. Following the leader were +several pack horses, led by some of the assistants on foot. Then +came Mr. Landells, on a camel, next Dr. Becker, similarly mounted, +and these were succeeded by two European assistants, riding on +camels--one leading the ambulance camel, and the other leading two +animals loaded with provisions. Sepoys on foot led the remainder of +the camels, four and five in hand, variously loaded, and the +caravan was closed by one mounted sepoy. Altogether twenty-seven +camels go with the expedition. Two new waggons, heavily loaded, +followed at a good distance. These were built expressly for the +expedition, and one of them is so constructed, that at a very short +notice it can be taken off the wheels, and put to all the uses of a +river punt, carrying an immense load high and dry on the water. If +it be necessary to swim the camels, air bags are provided to be +lashed under their jowls, so as to keep their heads clear when +crossing deep streams. Two or three hired waggons and one of the +new ones, were detained in the park till nearly dusk, in charge of +the astronomer, Mr. W.J. Wills, and the foreman, who had to look to +the careful packing of instruments, specimen cases, etc. The hired +waggons will proceed as far as Swan Hill only. Issuing from the +south gate of the park, the party went down behind the manure +depot, and thence on to the Sydney road, and the whole camped last +night near the village of Essendon. + +. . . + +The first day's march scarcely exceeded seven miles, the +camping ground for the night being on an open space of greensward +near the church at Essendon. Here I saw my son for the last time. +It was with a feeling of great misgiving that I took leave of him. +On shaking hands with Mr. Burke, I said frankly, "If it were in my +power, I would even now prevent his going." I then added, "If he +knew what I am about to say, he would not, I think, be well +pleased; but if you ever happen to want my son's advice or opinion, +you must ask it, for he will not offer it unasked. No matter what +course you may adopt, he will follow without remonstrance or +murmur." Mr. Burke shook me warmly by the hand in return, and +replied: "There is nothing you can say will raise him higher in my +estimation than he stands at present; I will do as you desire." +There were some photographers present to take likenesses. My son +refused to be taken. "Should it ever be worth while," he said, "my +father has an excellent one, which you can copy from." Alas! it has +been copied very often since. + +The progress of the party was slow through the enclosed districts, +until they reached Swan Hill on the Murray, which, properly +speaking, is the northern boundary of the colony of Victoria. My +son's first letter was dated August 26th. + +MY DEAR FATHER, + +We are now at the Mia-Mia, lying between McIvor and Castlemaine (a +roadside public-house). We are all right enough, except as regards +cleanliness, and everything has gone well, barring the necessary +break-downs, and wet weather. We have to travel slowly, on account +of the camels. I suppose Professor Neumayer will overtake us in a +day or two. I have been agreeably disappointed in my idea of the +camels. They are far from unpleasant to ride; in fact, it is much +less fatiguing than riding on horseback, and even with the little +practice I have yet had, I find it shakes me less. I shall write to +you from Swan Hill, if not before. + +Your affectionate son, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +. . . + +From Terrick Terrick, he writes, on the 31st of August, to +his friend Mr. Byerly: "Riding on camels is a much more pleasant +process than I anticipated, and for my work I find it much better +than riding on horseback. The saddles, as you are aware, are +double, so I sit on the back portion behind the hump, and pack my +instruments in front, I can thus ride on, keeping my journal and +making calculations; and need only stop the camel when I want to +take any bearings carefully; but the barometers can be read and +registered without halting. The animals are very quiet, and easily +managed, much more so than horses." + +His next letter to me is dated from Swan Hill, September 8th:-- + +MY DEAR FATHER, + +We arrived here on Saturday last, early in the afternoon. I had +not time to write by the last post, which closed on the same +evening. We are all in good health and spirits. The road we are +about to take is not that which I had anticipated, namely, down the +side of the Lower Darling, as we hear there is literally nothing +for the horses to eat; so that we are going right across the +country to the Darling, passing the Murray at this place. We leave +Swan Hill about the middle of next week, and shall then be out of +the colony of Victoria. We are expecting Professor Neumayer up +shortly,--a scrap of paper to-day by the postman says to-morrow. I +am rather disappointed at not having yet an assistant surveyor, but +I hope he will arrive shortly. Letters in future had better be +directed to the care of Dr. Macadam, the secretary, as they will +have to go by sea. + +. . . + +On the 17th of September he writes to his mother:-- + +Balranald, September 17th, 1860. + +MY DEAR MOTHER, + +As I have an opportunity of sending a few lines by this mail, I have +determined to take advantage of the chance, because I know how glad +you will be to receive them; but I have not time sufficient to give +you any account of our journey. We are now at the last township at +which we shall touch on our way towards the interior of the +continent. It is an out-of-the-way place, situated on the lower +part of the Murrumbidgee River. Our journey so far has been very +satisfactory: we are most fortunate as regards the season, for +there has been more rain this winter than has been known for the +last four or five years. In fact, it seems probable that we shall +finish our work in a much shorter period than was anticipated; very +likely in ten or twelve months. The country up here is beautiful; +everything green and pleasant; and if you saw it now, you would not +believe that in two months' time it could have such a parched and +barren appearance as it will then assume. I hope to be able, either +from the Darling or from Cooper's Creek, to send you some details +of our proceedings. Please to remember me to all, and + +Believe me, ever your affectionate son, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +. . . + +At Balranald, beyond the Murray, Mr. Burke found it impossible +to get on further with his foreman, Ferguson, and discharged him in +consequence. It required no deep penetration to discover that this +would occur. Before they left the Royal Park, I made a remark to +one of the committee on Ferguson's appearance and general +demeanour: the gentleman I addressed replied, "I have just told +Burke he will have to shoot him yet." + +When Ferguson returned to Melbourne, he published his own account +of the affair; and after the melancholy catastrophe of the +expedition became known, he brought his action against the +committee, and obtained a verdict for a considerable sum on the +ground of unjust dismissal, proving his own statement in the +absence of counter-evidence. Those who could or might have refuted +it were dead. + +Mr. Burke had no sooner rid himself of his troublesome foreman, +than his second began to exhibit insubordination in an unmistakable +manner. This reached a crisis by the time they had proceeded as far +as Menindie, on the Darling. Whatever Mr. Landells' merits may have +been as a manager of camels, his post of second in command had +evidently affected the equilibrium of his intellects. He mistook +his position, as also the character of his superior. His conduct +was so manifestly unjustifiable that no one took his part, or +defended him in the slightest degree. What his real motive was, +whether to escape from danger when danger was likely to commence, +or to obtain the leadership of the expedition himself, is difficult +to determine. He had been sowing dissension in the camp from an +early period. My son was so much engaged in his scientific +avocations that he knew little of what was going on; but when Mr. +Landells was ill-judged enough to talk plain sedition to him, he +saw at once, and clearly, the state of affairs. Mr. Burke was of a +generous and unsuspecting nature; he trusted every one until +practical experience opened his eyes, and then he naturally became +angry, almost to violence. The following correspondence, which was +published at the time, explains the affair exactly as it happened. +Mr. Selwyn laid before the committee the letter from Professor +Neumayer, enclosing my son's to him. The professor had been lost in +the bush, and had to cut his way through the scrub for a distance +of six miles. + +Youngera, November 8. + +MY DEAR SIR, + +Bad news from the expedition since I left them at McPherson's. I +really do not know what to think of it. I send you herewith a +letter from Mr. Wills, descriptive of the whole affair, and give +you authority to do with it according to your views. I am right in +the bush, and have just met with Captain Cadell, who is so kind as +to take this to you, in order that you might have a chance of +hearing both sides of the question. Landells I spoke to last night; +and, according to his statement, of course he is in the right. + +I shall be in town in three or four weeks. Excuse my writing. + +Sincerely yours, + +NEUMAYER. + +Alfred Selwyn, Esquire, Government Geologist. + +. . . + +Menindie, October 16, 1860. + +MY DEAR PROFESSOR, + +I suppose you are by this time safe in town again. Great things have +occurred since you left; in fact, I have so much to tell you that I +do not know where to begin. + +That Mr. Landells has resigned, and gives over his things +to-morrow, is news at which you will not be much surprised; but +that Dr. Beckler has been foolish enough to follow his example, for +no better reason than that he did not like the way in which Mr. +Burke spoke to Mr. Landells, will I think rather astonish you. I +shall now give you a full account of the whole matter, so that you +may be in a position to make any statement that you may deem +necessary in explanation of the proceedings. + +It will be necessary for me to remind you that when you left +Kornpany, Mr. Landells was there with the camels, for the purpose +of bringing on some of the heavy goods to lighten the waggons. This +he did, and reached the camp at Bilbarka on Tuesday, the 2nd +instant, with about three tons, whilst Mr. Burke went round by the +lower road with the waggons and horses; he was obliged to take the +latter with him, greatly to their disadvantage, because Mr. +Landells would not assume the responsibility of bringing them with +the camels. In bringing the things from Kornpany, one of Coppin's +camels fell, having at the time on his back a load of upwards of 4 +hundred-weight. The result of this fall was, ACCORDING TO MR. +LANDELLS' REPORT, a dislocation of the shoulder, for which he said +nothing could be done, so that the camel has been left behind a +perfect cripple. I have dashed the above words because I myself do +not believe it to be a dislocation, but only a strain; but that's +merely my idea; Mr. L. ought to know best. Certain it is that the +poor brute hobbled nearly twenty miles after us on Thursday last, +and I think that is rather a good pull for one with a dislocation +of the shoulder joint. + +On Thursday, the 4th instant, our own two waggons came up to +McPherson's, and in the evening Mr. Landells and I went down to the +station to post some letters. On the way, Mr. L. made many remarks +about Mr. Burke and his arrangements that were quite uncalled for. +He told me, amongst other things, that Mr. B. had no right to +interfere about the camels; that he had agreements with the +committee of which he believed Mr. B. was ignorant; that everything +was mismanaged; and, in fact, that if Mr. Burke had his way +everything would go to the devil. + +On Friday the other waggons came up, and it was intended that some +of the camels should fetch up what things we required, and that the +remainder should be stored at McPherson's; but the camels were not +to be found until late at night. On Saturday morning Mr. Landells +and the Doctor went down with seventeen camels to the station, a +distance of five miles, and, greatly to Mr. Burke's disgust, did +not return until after dark. In the meantime the nine remaining +camels had travelled off, and could not be found anywhere. + +On Sunday morning, McPherson sent a note to Mr. Burke, requesting +him to come down, as all the shearers were drunk on some of the +camels' rum, which they had obtained from the waggons. Mr. Burke +hereupon expressed his determination, which he had previously +mentioned to me, that he would leave the rum behind. Mr. Landells +objected to this, and insisted on the necessity of taking it on, +and told Mr. Burke, who was firm in his resolve, that he would not +be responsible for the camels. Mr. B. said he should do as he +pleased, and left the camp; and as soon as he was gone, Mr. L. +called me to take delivery of the Government things in charge, as +he intended to leave for Melbourne at once. He said that Mr. B. was +mad, and he was frightened to stay in the tent with him. He then +went off, telling me that he should deliver over the camels as soon +as he could find them. It appears that he went down to the station, +and on meeting the waggon-drivers on the road, told them that he +was about to leave, so that every one in the camp knew it in a very +short time. I should mention that everything was being got ready +for a start; and on my mentioning to Mr. Burke what had passed, he +said that he should take no notice of it until it was brought +officially before him. When Mr. Landells returned, he asked Mr. +Burke in my presence to dismiss him, which Mr. B. refused to do, +but said that he would forward his resignation if he wished it, +with a recommendation that he should receive his pay up to that +time. This did not exactly satisfy Mr. L., who wished to appear +before the public as the injured individual. He, nevertheless, +expressed to me several times his fixed determination to stay no +longer. He took an opportunity in the evening, in his tent, to give +expression to opinions of his, which would not tend, if listened +to, to raise a leader in the estimation of his officers. He said +that Mr. B. was a rash, mad man; that he did not know what he was +doing; that he would make a mess of the whole thing, and ruin all +of us; that he was frightened at him; that he did not consider +himself safe in the tent with him, and many other things. Some of +this was said in the presence of the Doctor and Mr. Becker; but the +most severe remarks were to me alone after they were gone. On +Monday, Mr. Landells asked Hodgkinson to write out for him his +resignation, and then in a private conversation, told Hodgkinson +several things, which the latter thought it best to make a note of +at once. Hodgkinson's statement is this--that Mr. Landells having +asked him whether he could keep a secret, told him, after +extracting a sort of promise about holding his tongue, that Mr. +Burke wanted an excuse for discharging him, and that he had sent +him with the camels with an order to him (Mr. Landells) to find +fault with him for that purpose. On hearing this, Hodgkinson wanted +to go to Mr. Burke and speak to him about it at once; but Landells +prevented this by reminding him of his promise. This all came out +owing to some remarks that Hodgkinson had made to me, and which I +considered myself in duty bound to tell Mr. Burke. On Monday +evening Mr. Landells was speaking to me about the best and quickest +way of getting to town, when I suggested to him that he might be +placing himself in a disagreeable position by leaving in such a +hurry without giving any notice. He replied that he did not care, +but that he meant to propose certain terms to Mr. Burke, which he +read to me from his pocket-book, and on these terms only he would +go:--"That Mr. Burke should give him a written agreement that he, +Mr. L., should have full and unqualified charge of the camels, and +that from that time Mr. B. should not interfere with them in any +way; that they should travel no further nor faster than Mr. L. +chose, and that he should be allowed to carry provisions for them +to the amount of four camels' burthen." Just after this, Mr. B. +came up and called Mr. L. aside, and, as the former told me, read +to him a letter that he had written to accompany the resignation. +The contents of this letter had a considerable effect on Mr. L., +who said that it was a pity they should have had any quarrel, and +so acted on Mr. B.'s feelings, that he allowed him to withdraw his +resignation. I believe that the information which had arrived about +a steamer being on its way up the river had had a great influence +in making Mr. Landells desirous to withdraw his resignation; but +the chief reason was, no doubt, that he feared, from the concluding +sentence of Mr. Burke's letter, that the committee would refuse him +his pay. + +After this, everything appeared to be healed for a day or two; but +on Wednesday, from various matters that had occurred, I considered +it my duty to mention to Mr. Burke about Hodgkinson and some things +that Mr. Landells had said to me; whereupon it came out that Mr. L. +had been playing a fine game, trying to set us all together by the +ears. To Mr. Burke he has been abusing and finding fault with all +of us; so much so, that Mr. B. tells me that Landells positively +hates me. We have, apparently, been the best of friends. To me, he +has been abusing Mr. Burke, and has always spoken as if he hated +the Doctor and Mr. Becker; whereas with them he has been all milk +and honey. There is scarcely a man in the party whom he has not +urged Mr. Burke to dismiss. + +Mr. Burke went ahead with the horses from Bilbarka, partly because +he wanted to be here sooner than the rest, and partly in order to +avoid a collision with Mr. Landells. He asked Dr. Beckler to +accompany him, for we both expected that Mr. Landells would be +tampering with him, as we found he had been with others; but the +Doctor said that he preferred going with the camels, so that after +the first day, when we found that Dr. Beckler would not go on with +the horses, Mr. Burke took Mr. Becker and myself with him. We +crossed the horses at a very good crossing at Kinchica, six miles +below Menindie. Mr. Burke sent me up from there in the steamer, +whilst he took the horses up. On our arrival, we found that Mr. +Landells had ridden up also, having left the camels at Kinchica; he +objected to making them swim the river, and wanted the steamer's +barge to cross them over. This Mr. Burke refused, because the +captain and every one else said that it would be a very dangerous +experiment, from the difficulty of getting them on or off, which is +no easy matter to do safely, even on a punt arranged for the +purpose; and as for the barge, it can scarcely be brought within +six feet of the bank; so Mr. Burke insisted on their swimming the +river at Kinchica. After dinner we went down to assist in crossing +them, but Mr. Landells said it was too late, and that he would +cross them at ten o'clock next morning. On his remarking that there +was no rope here, I mentioned that we had just brought one across +with us, when he wanted to know what business I had to say +anything. Altogether he made a great fool of himself before several +of the men; and a Mr. Wright, the manager of the Kinchica station. +For this Mr. Burke gave him an overhauling, and told him that if +his officers misconducted themselves, he (Mr. B.) was the person to +blow them up. Mr. Burke then told me, before Mr. Landells, that he +wished me to be present at the crossing of the camels, at ten +o'clock to-morrow. + +Mr. Landells then jumped up in a rage, asking Mr. Burke whether he +intended that I should superintend him, and what he meant by +desiring me to be present. Mr. Burke answered him that if he knew +his place he would not ask such a question; that he had no right to +ask it, and that he (Mr. B.) should give what orders he thought +proper to his officers without considering himself responsible to +Mr. L.; that Mr. Landells' conduct was insolent and improper, and +that he would have no more of it. This was on Monday. + +On Tuesday morning Mr. L. sent in his resignation, and in the +course of the day, Dr. Beckler followed his example, giving as his +reason that he did not like the manner in which Mr. Burke spoke to +Mr. Landells, and that he did not consider that the party was safe +without Mr. Landells to manage the camels. Now there is no mistake, +Dr. Beckler is an honest little fellow, and well-intentioned +enough, but he is nothing of a bushman, although he has had so much +travelling. Landells has taken advantage of his diffidence for his +own purposes; and at the same time that he hates him, he has put on +such a smooth exterior, that he has humbugged and hoodwinked him +into the belief that no one can manage the camels but himself. + +. . . + +The upshot was that the committee accepted the resignations of Mr. +Landells and Dr. Beckler, and expressed their entire approbation of +the conduct of Mr. Burke. + +The following extract from the Melbourne leading journal, the +"Argus,"--and with the view therein expressed all the other +newspapers coincided--shows pretty clearly the state of public +opinion on the question:-- + +Whatever may be the interest attached to the +communications respecting the Victorian Exploring Expedition, as +read before the committee of the Royal Society, there can be little +doubt but that the judgment pronounced on Mr. Landells remains +unaltered. He deserted his leader on the eve of the fight; and such +an act, so subversive of all discipline, and so far from the +thoughts of the smallest drummer-boy, renders all explanations +contemptible. In the present instance, Mr. Landells' explanations +make his act the more inexcusable. He is still of opinion that the +camels are indispensable to the safety of the party, and that he is +indispensable to the safety of the camels. The inference is, +therefore, that he knowingly left the party to perish. Indeed, we +should not at all enter into an examination of Mr. Landells' +letter, but that it may enable us to form some opinion as to the +prospects of the expedition itself, and as to the suitability of +Mr. Burke for its leadership. + +The charges brought against Mr. Burke by his late lieutenant, +comprise almost everything that a commander should not be guilty +of. His acts of commission and omission comprehend everything that +a bad general could possibly commit or omit, and Mr. Landells winds +up his bad qualities by asserting that he "cultivates the spy +system," and treats his men like a parcel of "convicts." Not only +is he "ungentlemanly" to his officers and "interfering with the +best interests of the party"--not only has he "displayed such a +want of judgment, candour, and decision;" but he has also shown, in +addition to these and many other shortcomings, "such an entire +absence of any and every quality which should characterize him as +its leader, as has led to the conviction in my own mind that under +his leadership the expedition will be attended by the most +disastrous results." + +But in this matter we are not left to decide between Mr. Landells' +account and Mr. Burke's account. Mr. Wills, the third officer, may +be taken as an impartial observer, and his statement, a private +communication to the head of the department to which he lately +belonged, Professor Neumayer, is free from any suspicion of +toadyism. From it we may find abundant reason for the conduct which +Mr. Landells calls "strange." If Mr. Burke was restless at nights, +hasty in the day, and apparently undecided what course to pursue, +we have from this account of the matter only to wonder that he +managed to bear with Mr. Landells so long as he did. Here the rage +is all on Mr. Landells' side. "Mr. Landells then jumped up in a +rage, asking Mr. Burke whether he intended that I should +superintend him?" To talk, touch, or mention anything about his +favourites, the camels, was sure to bring on "a scene." "On his +remarking that there was no rope here, I mentioned that we had just +brought one across with us, when he wanted to know what business I +had to say anything. Altogether, he made a great fool of himself +before several of the men, and a Mr. Wright, the manager of the +Kinchica Station." These camels, under Mr. Landells' spoiling, +appear to have become the plague of the expedition. They were to +have rum--solely, as it now appears, because Mr. Landells "knew of +an officer who took two camels through a two years' campaign in +Cabul, the Punjab, and Scinde, by allowing them arrack." They were +to carry more stores for themselves than they were worth. They were +not to make long journeys, nor to travel in bad weather, nor to be +subject to any one's direction, or opinion, or advice. In fine, the +chief difficulty of exploring Australia seemed to consist in +humouring the camels. We may imagine the feelings of a leader with +such a drag as this encumbering him. Mr. Pickwick could never have +viewed with such disgust the horse which he was obliged to lead +about as Mr. Burke must have regarded his camels. When to this it +is added that the leader observed various intrigues carried on, we +cannot wonder that he determined to come to an open rupture before +Mr. Landells and the camels had completely disorganized the +expedition. "Whereupon it came out," writes Mr. Wills, "that Mr. +Landells has been playing a fine game, trying to set us all +together by the ears. There is scarcely a man in the party whom he +has not urged Mr. Burke to dismiss." Under such a state of things, +the leader of the expedition must have been painfully aware that +his party was in no fit state of organization to enter on a most +perilous undertaking, and that while such continued, both he and +his men were going to inevitable destruction. If his conduct +appeared to Mr. Landells restless and uncertain, we may wonder how, +under the circumstances, it could be otherwise. We find it +impossible to believe that the Exploring Committee of the Royal +Society could have secretly informed Mr. Landells that he held +independent command, for such a thing would be a burlesque on +discipline. He claims the sole management of the camels; and +perhaps the committee may have defined his duty as such. But so +also has a private soldier the sole management of his musket, but +it is under the directions of his officer. Profound as may be Mr. +Landells' knowledge of camels, it would be worse than useless +unless subject to the direction of his commanding officer. + +. . . + +Mr. Burke, on the resignation of Mr. Landells, immediately +promoted my son to the post he had vacated, which appointment the +committee confirmed. Here there was perfect union and reciprocal +understanding. Neither had petty jealousies or reserved views. The +success of the expedition was their object, and personal glory +their aim. The leader had every confidence in his second, and the +second was proud of his leader. But Mr. Burke committed an error in +the selection of Mr. Wright for the third position in command, +without any previous knowledge or experience of his capabilities. +In this he acted from his impulsive nature, and the consequences +bore heavily on his own and my son's fate. To the misconduct of Mr. +Wright, in the words of the report of the Committee of Inquiry, +"are mainly attributable the whole of the disasters of the +expedition, with the exception of the death of Gray." In appearance +and acquirements, there was nothing to recommend him. The gentleman +suggested by Mr. Burke as a substitute for Dr. Beckler, most +unjustly, according to general opinion, desired to supplant my son. +This the majority of the committee refused to accede to, and Mr. +Nicholson, the chief secretary, agreed with their decision. Others, +including myself, offered to go; and a dispute, or rather a +discussion arose on the matter, which produced delay, so that no +one was sent at all. Another fatal mistake. It will be a source of +sorrow and strong regret to me as long as I exist, that I did not, +of my own will, push on to Menindie, where I might have been +instrumental in saving one for whom I would willingly have risked +my life. But no one then foresaw or expected the errors which +caused the surviving travelers to perish on their return. + +But the actual cause of what might appear to be neglect on the part +of the committee, in procrastinating the medical appointment, or +other matters that were delayed, arose from the want of funds. The +sum subscribed had been expended, and when Mr. Hodgkinson arrived +at Melbourne, with Wright's despatch (written, however, by +Hodgkinson), asking for cash, and a confirmation of his appointment +as third in command, the committee had no balance at their +disposal. His Excellency, Sir Henry Barkly, to prevent any +misfortune on that ground, came forward on his personal guarantee, +and became responsible until Parliament should again meet. The +funds asked for by Wright, and even more, were granted; but I +believe it would puzzle the committee, to this day, to find what +became of them. One of the avowed objects was to purchase sheep; +this, at least, was neglected. Hodgkinson fulfilled his mission +zealously, and returned to Wright within as short a time as +possible. But Wright lingered inactively at Menindie, allowed the +proper time for following out the track of Mr. Burke to glide away +and disgracefully broke faith with one who had too generously +trusted him. + +One word more with respect to Mr. Landells. His assertion, believed +by no rational person at the time, and emphatically denounced by +Mr. Burke in his despatch as "false," that he had private +instructions from the committee, rendering him in some respects +independent of his leader, was utterly disproved by the evidence of +Dr. Macadam, Honorary Secretary, related before the Royal +Commission, who said in reply to Question 110: "We gave Mr. +Landells no private instructions whatever; that has been answered +over and over again." + +CHAPTER 7. + +From Menindie on the Darling to Torowoto. Mr. Burke's Despatch, and +Mr. Wills's Report from Torowoto. Mr. Wright's unaccountable delay +at Menindie. The Expedition proceeds onwards to Cooper's Creek. +Exploring Trips in that Neighbourhood. Loss of Three Camels. Mr. +Wills's Letter to his Sister, December 6th and 15th. Incorrectness +of McDonough's Statements. + +THE incapables being happily disposed of, Mr. Burke and his party +left Menindie on the 19th of October. The committee having decided +on Cooper's Creek as the basis of his operations, he pushed on in +that direction, and reached Torowoto on the 29th of the same month. +From the latter encampment he forwarded the following despatch, +including my son's surveying report. + +Torowoto, October 29, 1860. + +SIR, + +I have the honour to report, that I left Menindie on the 19th +instant with the following party:-- + +Messrs. Burke, Wills, Brahe, Patten, McDonough, King, Gray, +Dost Mahomet, fifteen horses and sixteen camels, and Mr. Wright, who +had kindly volunteered to show me a practical route towards +Cooper's Creek, for a distance of a hundred miles from the Darling; +and he has more than fulfilled his promise, for we have now +travelled for upwards of 200 miles, generally through a fine +sheep-grazing country; and we have not had any difficulty about +water, as we found creeks, or waterholes, many of them having every +appearance of permanent water, at distances never exceeding twenty +miles. Mr. Wills's report, herewith forwarded, gives all the +necessary details. Although travelling at the rate of twenty miles +a day, the horses and camels have all improved in condition, and +the country improves as we go on. Yesterday, from Wanominta to +Paldrumata Creek, we travelled over a splendid grazing country, and +to-day, we are encamped on a creek or swamp, the banks of which are +very well grassed, and good feed all the way from our last camp +(44), except for two miles, where the ground was barren and swampy. +Of course it is impossible for me to say what effect an unusually +dry summer would produce throughout this country, or whether we are +now travelling in an unusually favourable season or not. I describe +things as I find them. + +Mr. Wright returns from here to Menindie. I informed him that I +should consider him third officer of the expedition, subject to the +approval of the committee, from the day of our departure from +Menindie, and I hope that they will confirm the appointment. In the +mean time I have instructed him to follow me up with the remainder +of the camels to Cooper's Creek, to take steps to procure a supply +of jerked meat, and I have written to the doctor to inform him that +I have accepted his resignation, as, although I was anxious to +await the decision of the committee, the circumstances will not +admit of delay, and he has positively refused to leave the settled +districts. I am willing to admit that he did his best until his +fears for the safety of the party overcame him; but these fears, I +think, clearly show how unfit he is for his post. If Mr. Wright is +allowed to follow out the instructions I have given him, I am +confident that the result will be satisfactory; and if the +committee think proper to make inquiries with regard to him they +will find that he is well qualified for the post, and that he bears +the very highest character. I shall proceed on from here to +Cooper's Creek. I may, or may not, be able to send back from there +until we are followed up. Perhaps it would not be prudent to divide +the party; the natives here have told Mr. Wright that we shall meet +with opposition on our way there. Perhaps I might find it advisable +to leave a depot at Cooper's Creek, and to go on with a small party +to examine the country beyond it. + +Under any circumstances it is desirable that we should soon be +followed up. I consider myself very fortunate in having Mr. Wills +as my second in command. He is a capital officer, zealous and +untiring in the performance of his duties, and I trust that he will +remain my second as long as I am in charge of the expedition. + +The men all conduct themselves admirably, and they are all most +anxious to go on; but the committee may rely upon it that I shall +go on steadily and carefully, and that I shall endeavour not to +lose a chance or to run any unnecessary risk. + +I have the honour to be, Sir, + +Your most obedient servant, + +R. O'HARA BURKE, Leader., + +P.S.--The two blacks and four horses go back with Mr. Wright. + +The following is a list of the camps from Menindie to this place:-- + +October 19. Totoynya, a waterhole on the plains. . .Camp 35. + +October 20. Kokriega, well in the Scope Ranges. . .Camp 36. + +October 21. Bilpa Creek, do. . .Camp 37. + +October 22. Botoja Clay-pans. . .Camp 38. + +October 23. Langawirra Gully; Mount Doubeny Range. . .Camp 39. + +October 24. Bengora Creek, Mount Doubeny Range. . .Camp 40. + +October 25. Naudtherungee Creek. . .Camp 41. + +October 26. Teltawongee Creek. . .Camp 42. + +October 27. Wonominta Creek. . .Camp 43. + +October 28. A clay-pan on the plains. . .Camp 44. + +October 29. Torowoto Swamp...Camp 45. + Latitude, 30 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds south; + longitude, 142 degrees 27 minutes east. + +. . . + +October 30, 1860. Forwarded. + +R. O'HARA BURKE, Leader. + +Dr. Macadam, Secretary, Exploring Expedition. + +. . . + +FROM MR. WILLS, SECOND IN COMMAND, ASTRONOMER AND SURVEYOR OF +THEPARTY. + +SURVEYOR'S REPORT. + +The country, Bilbarka and Tolarno, in the immediate vicinity of the +eastern bank of the River Darling, presents the most barren and +miserable appearance of any land that we have yet met with. It +consists chiefly of mud flats, covered with polygonum bushes, box +timber, and a few salsolaceous plants, of inferior quality. Above +Tolarno there is a slight improvement, and between Kinchica and +Menindie there is some fair grazing country. All agree in saying +that there is fine grazing land back from the river; but the want +of water will probably prevent its being occupied, except in a very +partial manner, for many years; and I fear that the high sand +ridges, twenty to forty feet, and in some cases more than sixty +feet above the level of the river banks, will form almost +insuperable barriers in the way of any one who may attempt to +conduct water from the river by means of canals. It appears to me, +from the information that I have been able to obtain, that the +difficulties with which settlers have here to contend arise not so +much from the absorbent nature of the soil as from the want of +anything to absorb. This last season is said to have been the most +rainy that they have had for several years; yet everything looked +so parched up that I should have imagined it had been an +exceedingly dry one. + +Gales.--I noticed that the forests for about 30 miles below +Menindie had been subjected to severe gales from west-north-west. +This was so striking, that I at first thought it was the effect of +a hurricane; but I could find no indications of a whirling force, +all the trees and branches lying in the same direction; besides +which, they seemed to have been torn down at various times, from +the different stages of decay in which they were found; and Mr. +Wright has subsequently informed me that almost every spring they +have a gale from west-north-west, which lasts but a short time, but +carries everything before it. It is this same strip of country +which is said to be more favoured with rain than that lower down. + +Sand Drifting.--One can perceive everywhere in the neighbourhood of +Menindie, the effect of the winds in shifting the sand, by the +numerous logs in various stages of inhumation. + +The Darling Pea.--It appears to be a disputed question, even on the +river, as to the effect of the Darling pea on horses, some +asserting that they become cranky simply from eating that herb, and +others that it is starvation that makes them mad. I could get no +satisfactory information even as to the symptoms, which seem to +vary considerably; but this I had from a reliable source, that +horses will eat the pea in large quantities without being +injuriously affected, provided they can obtain other food as well; +but that when they are on portions of the river where they can get +nothing else to eat, then they soon get an attack of madness. + +Menindie to Scrope Ranges.--The country between Menindie and +Kokriega, in the Scrope Ranges, a distance of thirty-six miles in a +northerly direction, is a fine open tract of country, well grassed, +but having no permanent water. At Kokriega there is a well which +may be relied on for a small supply, but would be of no use in +watering cattle in large numbers. The ranges are composed of +ferruginous sandstone and quartz conglomerate, and as to vegetation +are of a very uninviting aspect. The plain to the south is covered +with quartz and sandstone pebbles. About five miles to the +north-east of the Kokriega is a spot where the schist rock crops +out from under the sandstone, and the rises here have somewhat of +an auriferous character. + +North of the Scrope Range.--To the north of the Scrope Range the +country has much the same appearance, except that there are more +trees, and no stones until one reaches the Mount Doubeny Ranges, a +distance of nearly forty miles. At a spot half way, named Botoga, +there are some flats well calculated for collecting and retaining +rain water. + +Mount Doubeny Range.--In this range there are, no doubt, many +places where permanent water may be found in considerable +quantities. Two places I may mention where the water is certainly +permanent--Mutwongee, a gully midway between camps 39 and 40; and +Bengora Creek, the latter camp. + +Country North of Mount Doubeny.--From these ranges up to our +present position we have passed over as good grazing country as one +would wish to see; salt bushes of every kind, grass in abundance, +and plenty of water. Amongst the ranges we found kangaroo grass as +high as our shoulders, and on the plains the spear grass up to our +knees. + +Naudtherungee Creek.--At this creek, which takes its rise near +Mount Lyell, and probably flows into the McFarlane's Creek of +Sturt, we found a small shallow pond of water, in the sandy bed of +the creek. This did not look very promising, but on digging I found +that the whole bed of the creek was a mass of loose sand, through +which the water freely permeated, and that the waterhole we found +was only a spot where, the level of the surface of the sand being +below that of the water, the latter oozed through. I am informed by +Mr. Wright, who was here in January last, that the creek contained +much more water then than now. + +Country North of Naudtherungee Creek.--For a few miles to the north +of this creek the ground is very sandy, and timbered with pines, +acacias, and several descriptions of trees with which I am +unacquainted. There are two very handsome trees that I have never +seen in any other part of the country--the leopard tree (called so +from its spotted bark), and a tree which in general appearance much +resembles the poplar. On these sandhills the grass is very coarse, +but in the flats there is good feed. Beyond the sand rises the +country becomes more open again; and at about twelve or thirteen +miles one comes to quartz rises, from which there is a fine view to +the east, north, and west. Two creeks are distinctly visible by the +lines of gum timber; they take their rise near some hills to the +eastward, and passing around towards the north, join at a point +about three miles north-west, from whence the resulting creek +continues in a west-north-westerly direction, as far as the eye can +reach. The hills are composed of an argillaceous schist. On several +of the lower rises, quartz reefs crop out, and some of the quartz +which I examined had every appearance of being auriferous, except +the main one--the colour of the gold. There are some fine +waterholes in the first creek (Teltawongee), but I cannot say for +certain that the water is permanent. The whole of the country from +here to our next camp, a distance of twenty six miles, is the +finest I have seen for collecting and retaining water; and the only +question as to a permanent supply of that essential liquid is, +whether this part of the country is subject to long-continued +droughts; for the waterholes that we have met with are not large +enough to last for any great length of time, in the event of the +country being stocked. At ten miles from Teltawongee, we came to +the Wonominta--a creek having all the characteristics of +water-courses that take their rise in hills of schistoze formation. +At first, the numberless small waterholes, without the trace of a +creek connecting them, then the deep-cut narrow channel, with every +here and there a fine waterhole. The banks of the creek are clothed +with high grass and marshmallows. The latter grow to an immense +size on nearly all the creeks out here. + +The Wonominta Ranges are high, bare-looking hills, lying to the +eastward of the creek; the highest peaks must be between two and +three thousand feet above the sea. The blacks say that there is no +water in them--an assertion that I can scarcely credit. They say, +however, that there is a fine creek, with permanent water, to the +east of the ranges, flowing northwards. At the point of the +Wonominta Creek where we camped there is a continuous waterhole of +more than a mile long, which, they say, is never dry. It is from +fifteen to twenty feet broad, and averages about five feet in +depth, as near as I could ascertain. From this point, Camp 43, the +creek turns to the north-west and around to north, where it enters +a swamp, named Wannoggin; it must be the same that Sturt crossed in +coming across from Evelyn Plains. In going over to Wannoggin, a +distance of fourteen miles, I found the plains everywhere +intersected by small creeks, most of them containing water, which +was sheltered from the sun by the overhanging branches of drooping +shrubs, tall marshmallows, and luxuriant salt bushes; and at some +of them were hundreds of ducks and waterhens. When crossing some +flats of light-coloured clay soil, near Wannoggin, and which were +covered with box timber, one might almost fancy himself in another +planet, they were so arid and barren. The Wannoggin Swamp is at +present dry, but I believe it is generally a fine place for water. +Birds are very numerous about there, and I noticed that by far the +greater portion of the muslka trees (a species of acacia) contained +nests, either old or new. + +At about twenty miles from Wonominta, in a north-north-easterly +direction, there is a fine creek, with a waterhole about a mile +long, which we passed; and Mr. Wright tells me there is a larger +one further up the creek. + +The land in the neighbourhood of the Torowoto Swamp is very fine +for pastoral purposes. It is rather low and swampy, and therefore +better for cattle than for sheep. There appears to be a gradual +fall in the land from Totoynya to this place, amounting to about +500 feet. This swamp can scarcely be more than 600 feet above the +sea, if so much. The highest ground over which we have passed has +been in the Mount Doubeny Ranges, from Langawirra to Bengora, and +that appears to be about 1000 feet above the sea. Mount Bengora is, +by barometrical observation, about 300 feet above the camp at +Bengora, but it is not the highest peak in the range by perhaps +fifty or sixty feet; and I think we may assume that the highest +peak does not exceed 1,500 feet above the sea. + +Meteorogical.--We have been very fortunate up to the present time +as regards the weather, both in having had plenty of water and +moderate temperatures. The thermometer has never risen above 88.5 +degrees in the shade, and has seldom been below 50 degrees, the +average daily range having been from 58 to 80 degrees. During our +stay on the Darling, the temperature of the water varied very +slightly, being always between 65 and 67 degrees. The winds have +generally been light, frequently going all round the compass in the +course of the day; but in any case it has almost invariably fallen +calm after sunset. Cirri and cirrostratus clouds have been very +prevalent during the day, and cumulostratus during the night. + +Wells and Creeks.--The temperature of the water in the well at +Kokriega, at ten A.M. October 21, was 58.5 degrees, being exactly +the same as the temperature of the air. That of the water between +the rocks, at Bilpa, at five P.M. on the same day, was 64 degrees, +the temperature of air being 75 degrees. The temperature of the +water in the sand at Naudtherungee, at seven A.M. on the 26th, was +59.5 degrees, that of the air being 62 degrees. At five A.M. +October 28, the temperature of the water in Wonominta Creek was 63. +5 degrees, that of the air being 62 degrees. + +Note.--The temperature of the water is always taken within six +inches of the surface. + +. . . + +The Royal Commission of Inquiry censured Mr. Burke for +the appointment of Mr. Wright, without personal knowledge of him; +and, judging by the lamentable results, a grave mistake it was. But +Mr. Burke was placed in great difficulty by the resignation of Mr. +Landells and Dr. Beckler, and acted to the best of his judgment +under the circumstances, with the means at his disposal. His +confidence, too hastily bestowed, was repaid by ingratitude and +contumely. Wright never spoke of his commander without using terms +of disparagement, and dwelling on his incapacity. "He was gone to +destruction," he said, "and would lose all who were with him." He +repeated these words to me, and others even stronger, both in +Melbourne and in Adelaide. McDonough, in his evidence before the +Royal Commission, was asked, "What did you say as to Mr. Wright's +desponding?" He answered (436): "He always gave Mr. Burke up as +lost; said he was neither gone to Queensland nor anywhere else; the +man has rushed madly on, depending upon surface water, and is lost +in the desert. He never gave us any hope for him; in fact, so much +so, that I offered to make a bet that he would be found at +Queensland, or turn up somewhere." + +It has been seen by Mr. Burke's despatch of the 29th of October, +that he gave orders to Mr. Wright to follow him up to Cooper's +Creek with the remainder of the camels and supplies, without +unnecessary delay. McDonough states (Answer 197) that Mr. Burke +said to him, on the 15th of December, "I expect Mr. Wright up in a +few days--a fortnight at farthest. I left him POSITIVE INSTRUCTIONS +to follow me." King states (Answer 693) "that on the 16th of +December, Mr. Burke told the party 'he then expected Mr. Wright +daily.'" Wright himself states in his evidence (Answer 1235), "I +gave Mr. Burke my word that I would take the remainder of the party +out, as soon as I returned to Menindie." + +A circumstance happened about this time, (December 1860), which +delayed him, but not even that necessarily. Information reached +Melbourne that Mr. Stuart had nearly penetrated to the Gulf of +Carpentaria, more to the westward; that he had been driven back by +the natives, but would start again immediately. The Committee +thought it advisable to forward the intelligence to Mr. Burke. This +was done by a despatch to Swan Hill, where Mr. Foster was +superintendent of police. He accordingly sent on a trooper named +Lyons, who followed in the track of the party, and arrived at +Menindie just as Wright returned with his two natives, after +escorting the expedition to Torowoto. Lyons refused to give up the +despatch, as he had been ordered to place it in Mr. Burke's own +hands. Here was a plausible excuse for Wright, no doubt, so he sent +McPherson, a saddler by trade, who had been engaged en route by Mr. +Burke, accompanied by Dick, a native, to assist Lyons in his +pursuit of the leader. Had he put himself and the whole party in +motion at once, the subsequent misfortunes would have been averted. +Lyons and McPherson lost their way, being quite unable to overtake +Mr. Burke, who had eight days' start, travelling at the rate of +twenty miles a day. Neither had they ingenuity enough to find Mr. +Burke's tracks, although accompanied by a native, which is +inexplicable, if they trusted to Dick, who had both intelligence +and energy of purpose. He found his way back to Wright, however, +and was thus the means of saving the lives of the trooper and +McPherson. + +Hodgkinson, we have seen, was despatched by Wright to Melbourne, +from Menindie, on the 19th of December, with letters assuming to be +written by himself, but, in fact, by Hodgkinson. Whether the +committee knew this does not appear: if they did not, here was one +reason for confirming Wright's appointment. Hodgkinson reached +Melbourne on the morning of the 30th, riding nearly four hundred +miles in eleven days. A meeting of the committee was called on +Monday, the 31st, at which his Excellency attended, and Hodgkinson +started on his return the same evening. This certainly was +business. Nearly double the sum that he had asked was allowed to +Wright, in cash. From the 5th of November, he lingered at Menindie, +until the 19th of December, doing nothing. He says he was waiting +for an answer to a letter he had previously sent. Dr. Macadam, the +Secretary, denies that he ever received such a letter. Wright is +here unworthy of credit, for he could not write. This was extracted +from himself, after considerable fencing, in his examination before +the Commission on the 12th of December, 1861:-- + +MR. WM. WRIGHT further examined. + +Question 1565. There is evidently some discrepancy between +the statement that you wrote yourself on the 5th of November, when +you came back, and the statement of Dr. Macadam that no such letter +was ever received. This letter of yours of the 19th of December, is +it written by yourself?--The one I sent myself? + +1566. The one of the 19th of December, is it in your own +handwriting?--The one that is missing? + +1567. No; this one [handing a paper to the witness]?--No, it is +not; Hodgkinson did all the writing. + +1568. Did he write the one that is stated to be missing?--No, he +did not. + +1569. You wrote that one?--I wrote that with my own hand. I just +wrote a few words. + +1570. Could your memory serve you sufficiently to write the purport +of that letter that is missing?--It would not. + +1571. Nothing approaching to it?--I never thought for a moment of +keeping a copy of it, or of giving it to Hodgkinson to keep a copy. + +1572. Have you no recollection of the general purport of it?--I +just mentioned that Mr. Burke had appointed me to take the party +out and take the command; that is about the heads of it. + +1573. Have you any objection to write a letter similar to that one, +as nearly as you can remember it?--No. I write a very indifferent +hand. + +1574. Which was the reason, it is to be presumed, why you got some +one to write the letter of the 19th?--Yes. + +Hodgkinson arrived at Menindie on the 9th of January, 1861, and +immediately placed in Wright's hands the following letter:-- + +Melbourne, December 31st. + +SIR, + +Your despatch of the 19th instant, forwarded per Mr. Hodgkinson,was +laid before a meeting of the members of the Exploration Committee +held this day, when the following resolutions were carried +unanimously: + +1. That a letter be forwarded to Mr. Wright, informing him that his +appointment as third in command of the Victorian Expedition, by Mr. +Burke, has been approved of and confirmed by this committee. + +2. That Mr. Wright, third officer of the Victorian Expedition, be +empowered to procure a number of horses (not more than ten), and +the necessary accoutrements; and also one hundred and fifty (say +150) sheep, and be authorized to draw on the treasurer, the +Honourable David E. Wilkie, M.D., M.L.C., for an amount not +exceeding four hundred (say 400) pounds sterling, for their +purchase, and other necessary incidental expenses. + +I have further to inform you that Mr. Hodgkinson, who returns as +the bearer of this despatch, will hand you an order from Mr. +Superintendent Foster, of Swan Hill, to obtain from trooper Lyons +the despatches for the leader, now in the possession of that +officer, and which it is desired you should hand to Mr. Burke. + +It is hoped by the committee, that trooper Lyons and saddler +Macpherson have safely returned to the camp, and you will kindly +report as to the manner in which the former has endeavoured to +carry out the duty committed to his charge. + +The medal for Dick, the aboriginal guide, bearing a suitable +inscription, is forwarded with this despatch, and the committee +leave in your hands the bestowal of such additional reward as you +may deem proper--not exceeding five guineas (say 5 pounds 5 +shillings.) + +Captain Cadell informed the committee to-day that his store at +Menindie would be at your service for depositing any articles you +may find it inconvenient to remove to Cooper's Creek at present. + +You will endeavour to secure, if possible, twelve pommel +pack-saddles, now arrived, it is believed, on the Darling. These +were forwarded via Adelaide, and will no doubt be of great use to +the main party. + +The committee desire that on your meeting with Mr. Burke, you will +show him, and deposit with him, this despatch, as also a copy of +yours of the 19th instant, together with copies of all despatches +you may forward to the committee during Mr. Burke's absence; and +the committee expect that you will communicate under such +circumstances as frequently as possible. + +Mr. Hodgkinson bears letters for the leader and Mr. Wills. + +In conclusion, it is hoped that your endeavours to remove the +stores from your present depot to Cooper's Creek will be early and +successfully accomplished. + +I have the honour to be, sir, + +Your obedient servant, + +(Signed) JOHN MACADAM, M.D., Secretary. + +To Mr. Wright, third in command, temporary depot, Plurarmora Creek, +Darling River, New South Wales. + +. . . + +Nothing can be clearer than the instructions herein conveyed; yet in +the face of them, Wright made no start until the 26th of January. +His answers to the Royal Commission were full of contradictions, +but to the main question of his delay he gave no answer at all. +From my own inquiries I never could make out that any one at +Menindie thought him fit for the post, or undertook to recommend +him. Captain Cadell did to the committee, but with Mr. Burke, +Captain Cadell was not on speaking terms. + +Mr. Burke and my son proceeded onwards, accompanied by the reduced +party, consisting of Brahe, King, Gray, Patten, McDonough, and Dost +Mahomet, fifteen horses and sixteen camels, on the 29th of +September, 1860, and reached Cooper's Creek on the 11th of +November, a distance of about 250 miles. Here my son went out +occasionally, taking a man with him, to explore the country, far +and near. His great desire was to reach Carpentaria by the shortest +practicable cut, and he inclined to a direct northern course, or to +the eastward of north. The committee represented afterwards, as +prominently as they could put it, that Mr. Burke was left +unshackled on this point, but still suggestions were offered, which +a leader naturally considers he is expected to listen to. One of +these was, that on leaving Cooper's Creek they should proceed +towards Eyre's Creek and Sturt's Farthest (September, 1845); for +which I refer the reader to the map. My son could not see the +wisdom of this, as Sturt had declared that beyond that point he saw +nothing but an impenetrable desert. McDouall Stuart's return to +Adelaide was also reported, and that he was about to start again: +it therefore became a rival race as to who should reach the goal +first. + +With reference to my son's exploration trips during the halt at +Cooper's Creek, Mr. Brahe, on his examination before the Royal +Commission, gave the following particulars:-- + +We travelled down the creek; our first camp on Cooper's Creek +was Camp 57; from some of the first camps Mr. Wills went out +exploring the creek. + +Question 148. How long did you remain at the first camp?--One +night; at the second camp, two days; and at the third camp, two +days; and from each camp Mr. Wills went down tracing the creek. + +149. And you remained two days at each camp for three camps down +the creek?--Yes. + +150. Was the third camp the final camp formed on the creek?--No, at +the 63rd camp the first depot was formed. We remained there a +fortnight. + +151. At the 63rd camp?--Yes, that would be the fifth or sixth camp +on the creek. + +152. What were you doing that fortnight?--Mr. Wills was exploring +the country to the north; Mr. Burke was out with him once; Mr. +Burke was out with me first, and we could not go far enough with +horses, not finding any water away from the camp. + +153. How far did you go?--About twenty-five miles straight; the +weather being very hot we could not go further: we had to return +the second day to the camp. + +151. Then Mr. Wills went out by himself?--He went ninety miles; he +took McDonough with him and three camels. + +155. And he lost one of his camels, did he not?--He lost the three +and returned on foot. + +156. Was he much weakened by that journey?--Not Mr. Wills. + +157. But McDonough was?--Rather. + +158. Did they suffer from want of food as well as want of water? +--No, only from want of water. + +159. How long did you remain after that before there was a final +start again?--I believe we started two or three days after that. +Mr. Wills went out a second time from that camp with King and only +two camels to bring down those things that he had left where he +lost the camels. + +160. How far was that from the creek?--Ninety miles. + +161. And he went out with King and two camels for the things that +he had left behind when he lost his camels and brought them back? +--Yes; and on the same day, or the day after, when Mr. Wills went +out on that second journey, Mr. Burke removed the depot to the +lower place. + +162. Did those camels lost by Mr. Wills ever turn up?--I believe +two of them have been found near Adelaide. + +163. In the meantime you went down to the last depot?--Yes. + +164. How long did you remain there?--Mr. Burke started from there +about five or six days after Mr. Wills returned from that second +journey. + +. . . + +My son gives his own account of the exploration when the camels were +lost, in the following letter to his sister:-- + +Cooper's Creek, December 6th, 1860. Latitude 27 degrees 36 minutes, +Longitude 141 degrees 30 seconds. + +MY DEAR BESSY, + +You must excuse my writing with a pencil; ink dries so rapidly that +it is a nuisance to use it. We have been here now about three +weeks, and shall, I expect, make a start northwards in about a +fortnight. Our journey to this point has been interesting, but not +in any particular that you will care much about. Our party here +consists of eight men, sixteen camels, and fourteen horses. We +expect the rest of the men and camels up in a few weeks. Everything +has been very comfortable so far; in fact, more like a picnic party +than a serious exploration: but I suppose we shall have some little +difficulties to contend with soon. I had an intimation of something +of the kind a few days ago, having been out reconnoitring the +country to the north for three days, with one man and three camels, +and had found no water, so that the animals were very thirsty, and +on the third night managed to get away from us, leaving us about +eighty miles from the main camp, without hay or water, except what +remained of that which we had brought with us; so here was nothing +for it, but to walk home as soon as we could, carrying as much +water as possible, to be drunk on the way. After searching about in +order to be sure that the camels had gone home, we started at about +half-past seven, and were lucky enough to find a creek with some +water in it about ten miles on, where we remained until evening; +for it is dry work travelling in the middle of the day, with the +thermometer varying from 90 to 105 degrees in the shade, and about +140 degrees in the sun. Well, we started again in the evening and +walked until between nine and ten P.M.; and again at three A.M. and +pushed on until midday. We then went on from five P.M., as before, +until nine P.M.; and then from two A.M., and reached the camp at +nine A.M., having walked more than eighty miles in rather less than +fifty hours, including sleeping, feeding, and all stoppages. We +found no water all the way, except what I have mentioned above, so +that, as you may imagine, we ran rather short towards the end of +our journey, having not quite half a pint left between us. When we +stopped to rest the second night, it had been blowing a hot wind +all day, with the thermometer at 107 degrees in the shade. This +made us require more water than usual. I can assure you there is +nothing like a walk of this sort to make one appreciate the value +of a drink of cold water. We feel no inclination for anything else, +and smack our lips over a drop such as you would not think of +tasting, with as much relish as ever any one did over the best +sherry or champagne. I have enjoyed myself so far. It is now nearly +four months since we left Melbourne, and you will see by the map +that we are about half-way across the continent. I hope by the time +that this reaches you we shall not only have been entirely across, +but back here again, and possibly on our way to Melbourne. There is +no probability of the expedition lasting two or three years. I +expect to be in town again within twelve months from the time of +starting. I enclose a few chrysanthemums from the Australian +desert. I know you will highly prize them. To give you an idea of +Cooper's Creek, fancy extensive flat, sandy plains, covered with +herbs dried like hay, and imagine a creek or river, somewhat +similar in appearance and size to the Dart above the Weir, winding +its way through these flats, having its banks densely clothed with +gum trees and other evergreens:--so far there appears to be a +considerable resemblance, but now for the difference. The water of +Cooper's Creek is the colour of flood-water in the Dart; the latter +is a continuous running stream; Cooper's Creek is only a number of +waterholes. In some places it entirely disappears, the water in +flood-time spreading all over the flats and forming no regular +channel. The flies are very numerous, so that one can do nothing +without having a veil on; and whilst eating the only plan is to +wear goggles. + +. . . + +His next letter is written with ink:-- + +December 15th. + +DEAR BESSY, + +Since scribbling the above, I have been up to the place from +whence I had the walk I mentioned. The camels did not get away this +time. We have shifted our quarters to a better place, about twenty +miles down the creek. To-morrow we start for Eyre’s Creek, about +two hundred miles towards the Una. There have been heavy +thunderstorms towards the north, and I hope we shall find plenty of +water. If so, I shall soon be able to send you a good long letter +without resorting to the use of a pencil. I wish I could send mamma +a few lines, but she must read yours and fancy it written to her: I +have not even time to send a line to my father. Tell mamma that I +am getting into that robust state of health that I always enjoy +when in the bush; a tremendous appetite, and can eat anything. One +of our chief articles of consumption is horseflesh: it is very +nice; you would scarcely know it from beef. Give my love to all, +and + +Believe me, + +Ever your affectionate brother, + +WILLIAM J. WILLS. + +. . . + +Here we find my son, between the 1st and 15th of December, +travelling about five hundred miles, and walking from eighty to +ninety. McDonough, in his examination, gave altogether a falsified +account respecting the loss of the camels, as he also made a +bombastic statement of his great intimacy with Mr. Burke. The real +truth is, that McDonough was the least trustworthy of the party. He +would not have been taken by my son, but in the morning Mr. Burke +had volunteered to accompany him, so that McDonough would not have +been left alone; but after travelling a short distance, Mr. Burke +did not feel well, and returned. At the place mentioned by my son +as having dismounted, he told McDonough that he wished to make some +observations, and was going to a rising ground at a distance; that +the camels should feed, but he was not to lose sight of them for an +instant. Instead of attending to his instructions, McDonough set to +work to light a fire and boil his pannikin. Perhaps he went to +sleep; for he pointed out some stunted bushes in the distance and +said they were the camels. My son then sent him to search for them, +but they could not be found. King, the only survivor of the party, +on his examination, said:-- + +Mr. Wills told me that the camels were lost through +McDonough's neglect during the time he was writing and taking +observations. + +Question 1737. McDonough never disputed that, did he?--McDonough +told me that it was while they were at supper in the evening; but I +do not see how that could be, because they generally took supper, +and ourselves, about six o'clock; and it was so dark that they +could not see the camels, so that they were most likely lost when +Mr. Wills was taking observations. + +. . . + +Mr. Burke, in his report from Cooper's Creek, dated December +the 13th, says:--"Mr. Wills, upon one occasion, travelled ninety +miles to the north, without finding water, when his camels escaped, +and he and the man who accompanied him were obliged to return on +foot, which they accomplished in forty-eight hours. Fortunately, +upon their return they found a pool of water. The three camels have +not yet been recovered. . .Mr. Wills co-operates cordially with me. +He is a most zealous and efficient officer." + +King, in the course of his evidence stated as follows:-- + +Question 667. What did you do when you got to Cooper's Creek; +did you go on any of these expeditions with Mr. Burke or Mr. Wills? +--Yes; when Mr. Burke made our first depot at the creek, Mr. Burke, +Mr. Wills, and McDonough started one morning to try and find water +some distance to the north. Mr. Burke seemed not to be well, and +returned after going a mile or so, and so McDonough and Mr. Wills +continued, and were away some few days; I do not know the exact +number of days; they lost the camels (three in number) and had to +return to the depot on foot. + +668. After a few days?--Yes; after a few days. + +669. Did you go out yourself on that expedition?--Not then; a few +days after, Mr. Burke, Mr. Wills, and myself went to a distance of +about seventy miles north; we could not find water; Mr. Wills found +water when he and McDonough went before. + +670. Did you go the same track as they did?--Yes; but I do not know +how Mr. Wills could not find it; he seemed not to recognize the +place. + +671. Did you lose any horses or camels then?--None; we just rested, +and Mr. Wills and myself went the third time, and found the water +at a distance of about ninety miles to the north, and we also had +to bring the camel saddles, and riding saddles, which Mr. Burke +intended to take with him across the continent. + +CHAPTER 8. + +Mr. Wills's Survey of the line of Country pursued by the +Expedition, from Torowoto Swamp to Cooper's Creek. + +THE following reports, which were duly forwarded and published, +contain interesting particulars of the country traversed, and the +observations made between Torowoto and Cooper's Creek. They were +accompanied by a tracing, which is shown on the map. + +Camp 65, Depot, Cooper's Creek, December 15th, 1860. + +SIR, + +I have had the honour to place in the hands of our leader, for +transmission to the committee, my third report, and a tracing, +showing the country traversed since my last was written. I regret +that I have been unable to devote as much attention to either as I +could have desired; but I have no doubt the committee will make due +allowance for my want of time, and the inconveniences attending the +execution of such work in our present position. + +I have, etc. + +WILLIAM J. WILLS, Surveyor and Assistant Observer. + +The Honorary Secretary of the Exploration Committee. + +(Forwarded). + +Depot, December 16, 1860. + +As Mr. Wills's report, with which I fully concur, contains all the +necessary details with regard to the state of the country through +which we passed, I have not referred to the subject in mine. + +R. O'HARA BURKE, Leader. + +The Honorary Secretary of the Exploration Committee. + +The accompanying tracing will show the course taken by the +expedition party from the Torowoto Swamp, in latitude 30 degrees 1 +minute 30 seconds south, longitude 142 degrees 36 minutes east, to +the depot on Cooper's Creek, Camp 65, latitude 27 degrees 37 +minutes 8 seconds south, longitude 141 degrees 6 minutes east. + +Water supply between Torowoto and Wright's Creek.--The country +traversed to the north of the Torowoto Swamp, and lying between +that place and Wright's Creek, is neither so well grassed nor +watered as that to the south of the Swamp; the land falls +considerably as far as Cangapundy, and a great extent of it is +subject to inundation. Nearly all the water met with was thick and +muddy: it was met with in small clay pans, most of which would +probably be dry in three weeks. This applies to all the places at +which we found water, with the exception of Cannilta, Cangapundy, +--and the four waterholes to the south of Wright's Creek. + +Cannilta.--Cannilta is a waterhole of good clear water in a small +rocky creek which runs out on the low mud flats and swampy ground +lying between Altoka and Tangowoko: it is situated in latitude 29 +degrees 26 minutes 42 seconds south, longitude 142 degrees 40 +minutes east, by account, nearly a mile from the north-westernmost +point of the swampy ground. This point may be distinguished by the +growth of a coarse kind of reedy grass, which does not make its +appearance on the southern portion of the swamp or lake. The water +in the hole was only two or three feet deep, but is well shaded by +box trees, and will probably last two or three months. The +temperature of the surface of the water at seven A.M., 2nd of +November, was 60.5 degrees; that of the air being at the same time +60 degrees. + +The Cangapundy Swamp.--The Cangapundy Swamp is an extensive tract +of low clay land, which bears the appearance, as regards the +vegetation of its banks, of having a tolerably permanent supply of +water; but, unless some portions of the swamp are much deeper than +where we passed, the water could not last throughout a dry season. +The banks of the swamp are densely clothed with grasses, +marshmallows, polygonum bushes, and shrubs, which shelter numerous +kinds of waterfowl and snakes. + +Character of Land.--It will be seen by the tracing that a large +proportion of the land between Torowoto and Wright's Creek is +composed of low mud plains and clay flats, subject to inundation. +Most of these are devoid of vegetation of any kind, and others +carry some stunted salt bushes and coarse grasses, which appear to +be struggling between life and death. Bounding the mud-flats are +generally some stony rises well grassed and sometimes lightly +timbered. The more elevated plains are sandy, and support a fine +supply of healthy salt bushes, as well as here and there a few +grasses. On the rises to the south-south-east of Cannilta may be +seen great quantities of quartz rock, forming dykes in the schist +rises: the latter in some places adjoin, and run into hills of +loose stone, having the appearance of indurated clay. From +Cangapundy to Wright's Creek the ground is light-coloured, and of a +clayey nature: it forms a series of dry clay-pans, separated from +one another by low sandy banks, on which the vegetation was fresh +and green. At about seventeen miles from the former place are three +large holes with water from two to three feet deep in the deepest +part, and at six miles further another large one which might almost +be termed a lake, being nearly 1000 links square. About these there +were some lines of sandhills running about north-east and +south-west; and in one of the flats between the sandhills I found +several pieces of satin spar in lumps of the size of one's hand, +partially buried in the ground, and all of them with the plane of +cleavage nearly perpendicular with the surface to the ground. + +Balloo, or Wright's Creek.--The lower portion of Wright's Creek, +called by the natives "Balloo," is situated in latitude 28 degrees +48 minutes south, and longitude 142 degrees 53 minutes east by +account. At this point, the creek, after breaking into several +small channels, runs out on a grassy plain, the water running in a +southerly direction, probably until it meets that from the Torrens +and other creeks at the Cangapundy Swamp. There was plenty of water +in this part of the creek when we passed, but I cannot speak to its +permanence. The banks are well lined with box timber, as well as +with marshmallows and wild spinach: the land on either side +consists of well-grassed sandy rises. At four or five miles above +this, the creek is a narrow, dry, sandy watercourse, winding +through a grassy valley, which everywhere presents indications of +the most violent floods. Beyond this is an extensive grassy plain; +and for three or four miles scarcely a trace of the creek could be +seen. We then came to a clump of trees, amongst which were two +large waterholes surrounded by polygonum bushes, and containing +great numbers of small fish. These holes appear to be permanent. We +found about sixty blacks camped here. Above these waterholes, which +are together about half a mile long, the creek again disappears on +the plain. The land for the next ten or twelve miles in a +north-north-easterly direction is very fine for pastoral purposes, +being alternately grassy plains and ridges. At twelve or thirteen +miles we crossed the creek where it has cut for itself a deep +narrow channel, the banks of which are densely timbered and well +grassed, but the waterholes are small, and contained very little +water. For a distance of six miles the creek is of a very +insignificant character. It appears to be divided into several +branches, which traverse clay flats badly grassed. Here and there +are some lines of low sandy rises, with plenty of feed on them. All +the watercourses are distinctly marked by lines of box timber. At +about nine miles from where we crossed the creek, and after +traversing some loose polygonum ground, which was covered with +mussel shells and a shell resembling a periwinkle, we came to a +branch of the creek containing a splendid waterhole 150 links broad +and about half a mile long. A little above this the creek again +disappears for a short distance, and then there is a long narrow +channel of undoubtedly permanent water, being nearly four feet deep +in the shallowest places; it is only on an average about fifty +links broad, and well sheltered by overhanging box trees. The +temperature of the water on the morning of the 7th November, at six +o'clock, was 68 degrees; the temperature of the air at the same +time being 50.5 degrees. Our camp at this place is indicated by a +box tree marked B over LII in square, the geographical position of +which is by account 28 degrees 26 minutes 9 seconds south latitude, +and longitude 143 degrees 0 minutes east. In proceeding from here +in a north-north-easterly direction up the course of the creek, or +rather of the water, for the creek is again lost on the plains for +five or six miles, we passed the southernmost point of a prominent +sandstone range, the nearest portion of which lay about a mile and +a half to the westward. At about nine miles we again touched the +creek, where it is about three chains broad. The banks are firm and +shelving, from ten to twelve feet above the water, and lined with +box, acacias, some large gums, gigantic marshmallows, polygonum, +etc. In the creek there is abundance of fish, and the ducks and +other waterfowl on it are numberless. From what we have seen of the +blacks, I should say the population cannot be far short of 150, and +it might be considerably more. From here we proceeded in an +east-north-easterly direction along the west bank of this fine +waterhole, and at two and a half miles found it begin rapidly to +decrease in breadth, and a little further on there was nothing but +a few small stony watercourses traversing a dense box forest: at +this point there is a level bed of sandstone pebbles, close to and +over a part of which the creek flows. The blacks have here gone to +the trouble of making paths for themselves, along which we turned +off from the creek on a north-north-easterly course, and at about +three miles, coming on earthy plains, with no signs of water ahead, +we again turned in to the creek and camped at a small waterhole. +From here the line of river timber continues in a north-easterly +direction. To the west and north-north-west is a line of sandstone +ranges running off in the same direction. The land in the immediate +vicinity of the creek on the west side is very poorly grassed all +the way up from where we crossed it: that on the east side appeared +to be better. + +I think there can scarcely be a doubt but that this creek is the +lower portion of the Warrego River, although I believe that its +main supply of water is obtained from the adjoining ranges, which +send down innumerable creeks into the flats through which it flows. + +Some latitude observations at Camp 53, (the furthest point to which +we traced the creek) placed us in 28 degrees 16 minutes 40 seconds +south; our latitude, by account, being 28 degrees 17 minutes 8 +seconds, and longitude, 143 degrees 18 minutes east. On Thursday, +November 8th, we left Wright's Creek with the intention of crossing +the ranges to Cooper's Creek. We found the land as we approached +the hills well grassed, and in some places densely timbered: it is +intersected by numerous watercourses with deep sandy channels, in +most of which there seemed little chance of finding water. We +camped at a waterhole in McDonagh's Creek; the spot is indicated by +a gum tree marked B over LIV within square. + +De Rinsy's Tracks.--Near here we found the tracks of drays; there +were four distinct tracks, two of which appeared to be those of +heavy horse drays, the other two might have been made by light ones +or ring carts; we were unable to make out the tracks of the horses +or cattle. I cannot imagine what tracks these are, unless they may +be those of De Rinsy, who, I believe, had some drays with him, and +reported that he had been somewhere in this direction. From Camp 54 +to Camp 55 we were obliged to take a very circuitous route on +account of the rugged and stony nature of the ranges, which were +more extensive than we had anticipated. They stretch away far to +the north and north-north-west, and although we kept well out to +the north-west we were unable to avoid the low stony rises which +adjoin them. + +On the north-west side of the hills we crossed two dry creeks which +flow in a north-north-easterly direction; their banks are thinly +lined with box trees, and the holes in them were quite dry. From +this we took a west-north-westerly course, across an undulating +country covered with sandstone, quartz, and (magnetic) ironstone +pebbles, so densely and firmly set together in some places as to +have the appearance of an old-fashioned pavement. At about three +miles, we had to change our course to north-west, to avoid a spur +of the high range on our left. At two miles further we came to a +grassy flat through which ran a fine-looking creek, but the bed was +sandy and quite dry; there were, however, a good many small birds +about here, which would indicate that there must be water in the +neighbourhood. We here again changed our course to west-north-west, +and at six miles camped at a dry stony creek, having travelled +about eight-and-twenty miles over the worst ground that we had yet +met with. On the morning of the 10th we continued on a +west-north-westerly course, across stony ground of the same nature +as that passed during the previous day; but at a distance of five +miles we turned to west quarter south, as the ranges appeared to be +as low in that direction as in the other; and as they ran nearly +north-north-west there seemed a chance of sooner getting out of +them, which we did at a distance of about eight miles more. + +From the point at which we emerged from these ranges the view was +as follows:--From south-west nearly up to north-west were extensive +plains, as far as the eye could reach, intersected by numerous +lines of timber, the general direction of which was about +north-north-west. Several columns of smoke were visible along these +lines, some of which had the appearance of camp and others of bush +fires. From north-west to north were lines of ranges running in a +north-westerly direction, and in the valley between us and the +first spur was a fine line of timber, indicating the course of what +appeared to be a large creek, probably the recipient of all the +small creeks that we had crossed during the morning; in every other +direction there was nothing to be seen but timbered sandstone +ranges. At noon we crossed a small creek running nearly north: the +grass had been burnt on its banks. About half a mile beyond it was +another creek of a more promising appearance, and as we approached +it we saw several crows, as well as other birds, in the trees. We +here found a small hole with the water fast drying up; it contained +a lot of young fish about half an inch long, and just sufficient +water to replenish our water bags and give the horses a drink; +below it the creek took a north-north-westerly course, and was dry +and sandy for a distance of two miles and a half, at which point we +found some large but shallow holes of milky-looking water. On the +plains near these holes we found large flocks of pigeons. The grass +was very coarse and dry, and the water would probably not last more +than a few weeks. + +Horse Tracks.--On the plains to the east of the creek were the +tracks of a single horse, which had evidently crossed when the +ground was very soft, and gone in a south-westerly direction. + +Position of Water.--The waterholes are situated in latitude 27 +degrees 51 south, longitude 142 degrees 40 minutes east, by account +from Camp 55. From here a course of west half south took us in a +distance of about twenty miles to Cooper's Creek, which we first +struck in latitude 27 degrees 49 minutes south, longitude 142 +degrees 20 minutes east. The land through which we passed on the +11th was so low and wooded as to prevent me from seeing the +direction of the ranges; the first five or six miles was tolerably +open. We then came to a box forest, where the soil was loose and +earthy, similar to polygonum ground; there were in every direction +signs of heavy floods and frequent inundations. We crossed several +small watercourses, in one of which there was a hole of rather +creamy water, at which we halted for an hour. From the waterhole we +quite unexpectedly obtained a rather fine fish, about eight inches +long, of the same description as the young ones we had found in +Brahe's Creek. + +Cooper's Creek.--At the point at which we first struck Cooper's +Creek it was rocky, sandy, and dry; but about half a mile further +down we came to some good waterholes, where the bed of the creek +was very boggy, and the banks richly grassed with kangaroo and +other grasses. The general course is a little north of west, but it +winds about very much between high sand hills. The waterholes are +not large, but deep, and well shaded, both by the steep banks and +the numerous box trees surrounding them. The logs and bushes high +upon the forks of the trees, tell of the destructive floods to +which this part of the country has been subjected, and that at no +very distant period, as may be seen by the flood marks on trees of +not more than five or six years' growth. + +From Camp 57 we traced the creek in a west-north-westerly direction +about six miles. It then runs out among the sand hills, the water +flowing by various small channels in a south-westerly direction. +The main channel, however, continues nearly south until it is lost +on an extensive earthy plain covered with marshmallows and +chrysanthemums. + +Creek.--In one of the valleys between the sand hills, at a distance +of about ten miles in a south-westerly direction, we found a +shallow waterhole where a creek is formed for a short distance, and +is then lost again on the earthy plain beyond. West by north and +west from here, about twelve miles, there are some splendid sheets +of water, in some places two and three chains broad; the banks well +timbered, but the land in the neighbourhood so loose and rotten +that one can scarcely ride over it. I expect this is the reason why +we saw no blacks about here, for it must be worse for them to walk +over than the stony ground. From Camp 60 the general course of the +creek is north-west, but it frequently disappears on the earthy +plains for several miles, and then forms into waterholes again +finer than before. At our first depot, Camp 63, in latitude 27 +degrees 36 minutes 15 seconds south, longitude 141 degrees 30 +minutes east, there is a fine hole about a mile long, and on an +average one chain and a half broad. It exceeds five feet in depth +everywhere that I tried it, except within three or four feet of the +bank. Two or three miles above this camp we saw the first melaburus +growing around the waterholes, some of them as large as a moderate +size gum tree. + +Earthy Flat.--The feed in the vicinity of Camp 63 is +unexceptionable, both for horses and camels but the herbage on the +creek generally down to this point is of a very inferior quality; +the grasses are very coarse, and bear a very small proportion to +the other plants. By far the chief portion of the herbage consists +of chrysanthemums and marshmallows; the former, to judge from their +dried-up powdery state, can contain very little nourishment, +although some of the horses and camels eat them with great relish; +the latter, I need hardly mention, are at this time of the year +merely withered sticks. A few small salsolaceous plants are to be +found on some of the flats, but they are scarcely worth mentioning. +In some places where the bed of the creek is shallow and dry, there +is an abundance of good grass and rushes of several kinds. The +polygonum bushes are also fresh and good, in such places. + +Stony Rises.--The stony rises are generally bare and barren; but +some of those on the north side of the creek carry a fair crop of +light grass. + +Sand Hills.--Wherever there are sand banks or ridges the feed is +almost invariably good; the salt bush is healthy and abundant, and +there are a variety of plants on which cattle would do well. For +camels, these hills are particularly well adapted, for there is +scarcely a plant grows on them that they will not eat, with the +exception of porcupine grass; but there is very little of that +until one gets many miles back from the creek. + +Character of Ground.--I have mentioned three distinct kinds of +ground--the earthy plains, the stony rises, and the sand ridges. +The latter, which is by far the most agreeable whether for +travelling on, for feed, or in respect to the freedom from flies, +ants, musquitoes, and rats, is simply a series of hills composed of +blown sand of a red colour, very fine, and so compactly set that +the foot does not sink in it much. In some places the ridges have a +uniform direction, in others the hills are scattered about without +any regularity; the average direction of the ridges is +north-north-east and south-south-west. In the valleys between the +hills, are shallow clay plains, in which the water rapidly +collects, even after slight showers; but when full they seldom +exceed five or six inches in depth, so that in summer they are soon +dry again. + +Stony Rises.--The stony ground, in contradistinction to the +sandstone ranges, appears to have been formed from the detritus of +the latter, deposited in undulating beds of vast extent. The +greater portion of this ground appears almost level when one is on +it, but when viewed from a distance the undulations are very +distinct; the stones are chiefly water-worn pebbles of sandstone, +quartz, and iron-stone; in some places the rises approach more +nearly to the nature of the sandstone ranges, and here the stones +are less water-worn, and are mixed with large blocks of rock. I +found the magnetic polarity to be very distinct in some of the +ironstone pebbles on these rises. + +Earthy Plains.--The earthy plains which are such an important +geological feature in this part of the country, will, I fear, +greatly interfere with its future occupation. When dry they are so +intersected by chasms and cracks that it is in some places +dangerous for animals to cross them, and when wet they would be +quite impassable. Cattle would, perhaps, do well on them for some +time after an inundation, and the ground might improve after having +been stocked. The boggy nature of the banks of the creeks passing +through this ground would be another impediment to settlers, from +the losses of cattle that it would sometimes entail. To furnish an +idea of the danger in that respect, I may mention that there are +places where, for a distance of two or three miles, neither a +bullock nor a horse could get to the water with safety, and it was +with difficulty that we could approach it ourselves; the safest +spots are at the lower end of the waterhole, where the creeks run +out on the plains. A peculiar geological feature that I have never +seen so strongly exhibited elsewhere is, that the watercourses on +these plains have a strong tendency to work away to the south and +south-west; the fall of the ground, as shown by the flow of the +flood water, being to the west and north-west. I found that at +almost every place where a portion of the creek ran out, the small +branches into which it split before disappearing, struck off at +nearly right angles to the creek, and that the flow of the water on +the level plain was invariably in a west or north-westerly +direction; whereas the creeks generally had a course considerably +to the south and west, more especially before running out. The +branch creeks and waterholes are always lined with box trees and +polygonum bushes; they are generally situated between or near +sandhills, and have doubtless been formed by the rush of water +consequent on the interference of these hills by the general flow. +In some places the direction of the sand ridges was the course of +the creeks, trending to the southward; but I allude to the tendency +as exhibited on the open plain, with no sand ridges near the creek. + +Country to the north of Camp 63,--Cooper's.--During our stay at +Camp 63, from which spot we found it necessary to remove for +several reasons, but chiefly because the rats attacked our stores +in such numbers that we could keep nothing from them, unless by +suspending it in the trees, four excursions were made to the north +of that place in search of a practicable route to the Gulf. The +first attempt was made with horses, which were soon knocked up from +the strong nature of the ground and the want of water; the others +we made with camels, by the help of which the country was well +examined to a distance of nearly ninety miles. Water was found at +two places at distances of about seventy and seventy-three miles +north of the creek, but it was fast drying up, and would not last +beyond Christmas. No blacks were seen, but a column of smoke was +observed to the north-north-east, at a distance of about fifteen +miles, as ascertained by some bearings, from the point at which we +turned back. The chief portion of the land traversed consists of +land-dunes and flats of the same nature, the latter clothed with +porcupine grass, the former with salt bushes, grasses, and a +variety of shrubs, sometimes intermixed with mesembryanthemums and +porcupine grass. The sandy ground is bounded on either side by +sandstone ranges, from which numerous small creeks flow east and +west until they are lost in small flats and clay pans amongst the +sand hills. Their course is marked by an acacia, which is somewhat +analogous in its general characteristics to the common wattle; a +few are favoured with some box trees, but we only found water in +one. The whole country has a most deplorably arid appearance; birds +are very scarce, native dogs numerous. The paths of the blacks on +the strong ground look as if they had been used many years. +Anthills and beds are to be found everywhere in great numbers and +of considerable size; the paths to and from them are better marked +and more worn than any I have ever seen before; but nearly all of +them are deserted, and those that are inhabited contain a small and +weakly population that seems to be fast dying away. Neither about +the flats nor the ranges did we see any signs of the heavy floods +that have left such distinct marks in other parts, and the +appearance of the whole country gave me the idea of a place that +had been subjected to a long-continued drought. At the northernmost +end of the eastern line of ranges, and on the west side of them, in +latitude 26 degrees 30 minutes south, longitude 141 degrees 40 +minutes east, is a low detached line of range about seven miles +from north to south. On passing inside this range at its southern +extremity, one enters a flat bounded to the south by high red sand +hills to the west and north by the low range, and running up to the +north-north-east, until it reaches the main range. On the lower +part of the flat there is no creek, but on proceeding up it, at a +mile and a half there are three waterholes with a few bushes +growing around them; the water was fast drying up when we were +there. There were some ducks, snipe, and pigeons about them: the +former always returned to the holes after having been disturbed, so +I imagine there is not much more water in the vicinity. In +continuing up the flat, the main creek appears to be that along +which the box timber grows, but the bed is sandy and quite dry. By +keeping off a little to the left, at a mile above the waterholes, +one comes on the bed of another creek, with only here and there a +gum tree and a few bushes. Up this creek at a distance of three +miles nearly north from the three holes, and where the creek +emerges from the ranges, is a large hole well shaded by heavy box +trees; it contained only a small quantity of water when we passed, +but I fancy that in ordinary seasons the water would be permanent. +This creek has been much frequented by blacks at one time, but not +lately. Hundreds of hawks and a good many crows and magpies were in +the trees near the waterhole. + +Geographical position.--The geographical position of the three +waterholes is by account from Cooper's Creek latitude 26 degrees 34 +minutes south, longitude 140 degrees 43 minutes east. + +Meteorological remarks.--It would be rather premature for me to +offer any opinion on the climate of Cooper's Creek on so short a +stay, and my other duties have prevented me from making any +observations that would be worth forwarding in detail. I may +mention, however, that neither on the creek, nor during the journey +up, have we experienced any extreme temperatures: the heat, +although considerably greater here than in Melbourne, as shown by a +thermometer, is not felt more severely by us. The maximum daily +temperatures since our arrival on Cooper's Creek have generally +exceeded 100 degrees; the highest of all was registered on November +27th at Camp 63, when the thermometer stood at 109 degrees in the +shade. There was at that time a strong wind from the north, which +felt rather warm, but had not the peculiar characteristics of a hot +wind. One of the most noticeable features in the weather has been +the well-marked regularity in the course of the wind, which almost +invariably blew lightly from the east or south-east soon after +sunrise, went gradually round to north by two o'clock, sometimes +blowing fresh from that quarter, followed the sun to west by +sunset, and then died away or blew gently from the south throughout +the night. A sudden change took place yesterday, December 14th; the +day had been unusually hot, temperature of air at one P.M. 106 +degrees, at which time cirrocumulus clouds began to cross the sky +from north-west, and at two P.M. the wind sprang up in the +south-west, blowing with great violence (force 6); it soon shifted +to south, increasing in force to (7) and sometimes (8); it +continued to blow from the same quarter all night, and has not yet +much abated. Once during the night it lulled for about an hour, and +then commenced again; it is now (four P.M.) blowing with a force of +(5) from south by east, with a clear sky. Before the wind had +sprung up the sky had become overcast, and we were threatened with +a thunderstorm; rain was evidently falling in the west and +north-west, but the sky partially cleared in the evening without +our receiving any. Flashes of distant lightning were visible +towards the north. During the night, the thunderstorm from the +north approached sufficiently near for thunder to be distinctly +heard; the flashes of lightning were painfully brilliant, although +so far away. The storm passed to the south-east without reaching +us; the sky remained overcast until between eight and nine A.M., +since when it has been quite clear; the temperature of air, which +at sunrise was as low as 72 degrees, has reached a maximum of 92 +degrees: it is at present 89 degrees, and that of the surface of +the water in the creek 78 degrees. Two other thunderstorms have +passed over since we have been on the creek, from only one of which +we have received any rain worth mentioning. + +Mr. Brahe, who remains here in charge of the depot, and from whom I +have received great assistance both in making meteorological +observations and in the filling in of feature surveys, will keep a +regular meteorological register. I have handed over to him for that +purpose an aneroid barometer, Number 21,543, and four thermometers, +two for dry and wet bulb observations, and the others for +temperature of water, etc. + +With regard to hot winds, the direction of the sand-ridges would +seem to indicate a prevalence of east and west winds here rather +than of northerly. + +WILLIAM J. WILLS, + +Surveyor and Astronomical Observer. + +Cooper's Creek, 15th December, 1860. + +. . . + +This concludes my son's third report; the first, as far as I +can ascertain, was never published. This last was accompanied by +many observations taken with the sextant and other instruments, +requiring long experience to understand and handle correctly. +Brahe, a German, had been instructed by my son in their use, and +had made some progress. Notwithstanding his fatal error in leaving +the depot contrary to orders, he had, in some respects, superior +requisites to either of the others left with him. He was a good +traveller, and a better bushman than Wright. Had he been associated +with a single companion of nerve and energy, the consequent +misfortunes might have been surmounted. + +CHAPTER 9. + +Departure from Cooper's Creek for the Gulf of Carpentaria. +Arrangements for the Continuance of the Depot at Cooper's Creek. +Mr. Brahe left in Charge. +Determination of Route. +Progress and Incidents. +Mr. Wills's Field Books, from the 16th of December, 1860, to the + 30th of January, 1861, 1 to 9. +Shores of Carpentaria. + +DURING the halt at Cooper's Creek, it was reported through an +Adelaide paper that Mr. McDouall Stuart had returned from his +attempt to explore in a north-western direction, and was preparing +to start again with Government aid, and no longer confined entirely +to the private resources and enterprise of Mr. James Chambers. The +Gulf of Carpentaria was not so much the immediate object of +Stuart's efforts, as the opening of a commercial avenue with a view +to future trade, in a direction more toward the north-west coast, +and as far north as the 16 or 18 degrees of southern latitude. This +line of exploration appeared preferable to the strong practical +mind of Mr. Chambers, who had in view the quid pro quo. Stuart's +object was therefore plain business, and the immediate advantage of +the colony with which he was connected; whilst the Victorian +Expedition included scientific discoveries, and the settlement of a +great geographical problem. Stuart is again out, since August, +1861, and doubts are entertained for his safety. Mr. Chambers has +died in the interim, and cannot know the result of the work he set +afloat with so much spirit. Thus it is in all ages of discovery, +that few of the early pioneers live to travel on the roads they +open with so much difficulty and endurance. + +Mr. Burke and my son, impatient of Wright's delay, and seeing the +time slip by that could never return, determined to make a dash for +the Gulf while the opportunity still remained to them. I was not +aware, until after a communication with Mr. Brahe, on his first +visit to Melbourne, subsequent to his desertion of his post at the +depot, that my son had strongly advocated a direct course +northward; but Mr. Burke hesitated to adopt this, unless he could +feel confident in a supply of water; the committee having included +something in his instructions as to proceeding north-west towards +Eyre's Creek and Sturt's Furthest. In his excursions round the camp +and the district of Cooper's Creek, with the all-important question +of water in view, my son must have gone over little short of a +thousand miles. When he lost his camels he had seen smoke in the +direction of north by east, which he believed to be a native fire, +but the disaster frustrated his attempts to ascertain the fact. +Unable thoroughly to assure his leader on the point of water, the +more western course was adopted at the commencement of the journey, +for a day or two, after which they turned to the east, and scarcely +deviated throughout from the 141st degree of eastern longitude. + +The party left Cooper's Creek on the morning of the 16th of +December, 1860. It consisted of Mr. Burke, Mr. Wills, King, and +Gray, (or Charley as my son calls him in his journal); one horse, +and six camels. It appears strange to me that they did not take +more horses. As they had been living on horseflesh so much they +would have increased their available food, in addition to the +facility of carrying burthens. + +Mr. Brahe remained at Cooper's Creek depot with Patten, McDonough, +Dost Mahomet, an Indian, six camels, and twelve horses. He was left +in charge until the arrival of Mr. Wright or some other person duly +appointed by the committee to take command of the remainder of the +expedition at Menindie. A surveyor also was expected to assist my +son, and plenty of work was laid out for all, until Mr. Burke's +return, had the authorities known how to employ the proper people +and employed them in time. + +There can be no doubt that Brahe received MOST POSITIVE ORDERS TO +REMAIN AT COOPER'S CREEK UNTIL THE RETURN OF THE EXPLORING PARTY +FROM THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA. Three and four months were named as +the possible time of absence. Brahe did remain over four months; +but even then it was in his power to have waited much longer, and +he ought to have done so. But the man was over-weighted; the +position was too much for him, and he gave way when a stronger mind +might have stood firm. The worst point about him appears to be his +want of consistency and miserable prevarication; but this may have +been weakness rather than absolute absence of principle, or of any +due sense of right or wrong. He was unfit to direct, but he might +have been directed. Mr. Burke has been blamed for trusting Brahe; +but he was the best of those who remained behind, and there were +not many to choose from. King has since told me that it was by my +son's advice Brahe was appointed, and that the arrival of the party +from Menindie was considered so certain, that the appointment was +looked upon only as a temporary affair. It has been also said that +King might have been left behind in charge, and Brahe taken on. +This arrangement, eligible in some respects, was open to objection +in others. Brahe could travel by compass and observation, which +King could not; and one so qualified might be wanted for a journey +to Menindie. + +The details of the journey are given as follows, in my son's Field +Books, numbered from 1 to 7 consecutively, transcribed by Dr. +Mueller, Mr. Smith, and Mr. Cooper. I was associated with them as a +matter of personal delicacy to the memory of the deceased explorer. + +MR. WILLS'S JOURNAL. + +FIELD BOOK 1. + +COOPER'S CREEK TO CARPENTARIA. + +[The omissions in this diary are supplied by the information +contained in the maps, with the exception of the last two days on +the shore of the Gulf.] + +Sunday, 16th December, 1860.--The horse having been shod and our +reports finished, we started at 6.40 A.M. for Eyre's Creek, the +party consisting of Mr. Burke, myself, King, and Charley, having +with us six camels, one horse, and three months' provisions. We +followed down the creek to the point where the sandstone ranges +cross the creek, and were accompanied to that place by Brahe, who +would return to take charge of the depot. Down to this point the +banks of the creek are very rugged and stony, but there is a +tolerable supply of grass and salt bush in the vicinity. A large +tribe of blacks came pestering us to go to their camp and have a +dance, which we declined. They were very troublesome, and nothing +but the threat to shoot them will keep them away. They are, +however, easily frightened; and, although fine-looking men, +decidedly not of a warlike disposition. They show the greatest +inclination to take whatever they can, but will run no unnecessary +risk in so doing. They seldom carry any weapon, except a shield and +a large kind of boomerang, which I believe they use for killing +rats, etc. Sometimes, but very seldom, they have a large spear; +reed spears seem to be quite unknown to them. They are undoubtedly +a finer and better-looking race of men than the blacks on the +Murray and Darling, and more peaceful; but in other respects I +believe they will not compare favourably with them, for from the +little we have seen of them, they appear to be mean-spirited and +contemptible in every respect. + +Monday, 17th December, 1860.--We continued to follow down the +creek. Found its course very crooked, and the channel frequently +dry for a considerable distance, and then forming into magnificent +waterholes, abounding in water fowl of all kinds. The country on +each side is more open than on the upper part of the creek. The +soil on the plains is of a light earthy nature, supporting +abundance of salt bush and grass. Most of the plains are lightly +timbered, and the ground is finer and not cracked up as at the head +of the creek. Left Camp 67 at ten minutes to six A.M., having +breakfasted before leaving. We followed the creek along from point +to point, at first in a direction west-north-west for about twelve +miles, then about north-west. At about noon we passed the last +water, a short distance beyond which the creek runs out on a +polygonum flat [Footnote: Polygonum Cunninghami.]; but the timber +was so large and dense that it deceived us into the belief that +there was a continuation of the channel. On crossing the polygonum +ground to where we expected to find the creek we became aware of +our mistake. Not thinking it advisable to chance the existence of +water ahead, we camped at the end of a large but shallow sheet of +water in the sandy bed of the creek. + +The hole was about 150 links broad, and * [Footnote: Blank in +original.] feet deep in most places. In many places the temperature +of the water was almost incredibly high, which induced me to try it +at several points. The mean of two on the shady side of the creek +gave 97 4/10 degrees. As may be imagined this water tasted +disagreeably warm, but we soon cooled some in water bags, and +thinking that it would be interesting to know what we might call +cool, I placed the thermometer in a pannikin containing some that +appeared delightfully so, almost cold in fact; its temperature was, +to our astonishment, 78 degrees. At half-past six, when a strong +wind was blowing from south, and temperature of air had fallen to +80 degrees, the lowest temperature of water in the hose, that had +been exposed to the full effect of evaporation for several hours +was 72 degrees. This water for drinking appeared positively cold, +and is too low a temperature to be pleasant under the +circumstances. A remarkable southerly squall came on between five +and six P.M., with every appearance of rain. The sky however soon +cleared, but the wind continued to blow in a squally and irregular +manner from the same quarter at evening. + +Wednesday, 19th December, 1860.--Started at a quarter-past eight A. +M., leaving what seemed to be the end of Cooper's Creek. We took a +course a little to the north of west, intending to try and obtain +water in some of the creeks that Sturt mentioned that he had +crossed, and at the same time to see whether they were connected +with Cooper's Creek, as appeared most probable from the direction +in which we found the latter running, and from the manner in which +it had been breaking up into small channels, flowing across the +plains in a north and north-north-west direction. We left on our +right the flooded flats on which this branch of the creek runs out, +and soon came to a series of sand ridges, the directions of which +were between north half-west and north-north-west. The country is +well grassed and supports plenty of salt bush. Many of the valleys +are liable to be inundated by the overflow of the main creek. They +have watercourses and polygonum flats bordered with box trees, but +we met with no holes fit to hold a supply of water. At about ten +miles we crossed a large earthy flat lightly timbered with box and +gum. The ground was very bad for travelling on, being much cracked +up and intersected by innumerable channels, which continually +carried off the water of a large creek. Some of the valleys beyond +this were very pretty, the ground being sound and covered with +fresh plants, which made them look beautifully green. At fifteen +miles we halted, where two large plains joined. Our attention had +been attracted by some red-breasted cockatoos, pigeons, a crow, and +several other birds, whose presence made us feel sure that there +was water not far off; but our hopes were soon destroyed by finding +a claypan just drying up. It contained just sufficient liquid to +make the clay boggy. At ten minutes to seven P.M., we moved on, +steering straight for Eyre's Creek, north-west by north, intending +to make a good night's journey and avoid the heat of the day; but +at a mile and a half we came to a creek which looked so well that +we followed it for a short distance, and finding two or three +waterholes of good milky water we camped for the night. This +enabled me to secure an observation of the eclipse of Jupiter's (I) +satellite, as well as some latitude observations. The night was so +calm that I used the water as an horizon; but I find it much more +satisfactory to take the mercury for several reasons. + +Thursday, 20th December.--We did not leave this camp until +half-past eight, having delayed to refill the water-bags with the +milky water, which all of us found to be a great treat again. It is +certainly more pleasant to drink than the clear water, and at the +same time more satisfying. Our course from here, north-west by +north, took us through some pretty country, lightly timbered and +well grassed. We could see the line of creek timber winding through +the valley on our left. At a distance of five miles there was a +bush fire on its banks, and beyond it the creek made a considerable +bend to the south-west. At two miles farther we came in sight of a +large lagoon bearing north by west, and at three miles more we +camped on what would seem the same creek as last night, near where +it enters the lagoon. The latter is of great extent and contains a +large quantity of water, which swarms with wild fowl of every +description. It is very shallow, but is surrounded by the most +pleasing woodland scenery, and everything in the vicinity looks +fresh and green. The creek near its junction with the lagoon +contains some good waterholes five to six feet deep. They are found +in a sandy alluvium which is very boggy when wet. There was a large +camp of not less than forty or fifty blacks near where we stopped. +They brought us presents of fish, for which we gave them some beads +and matches. These fish we found to be a most valuable addition to +our rations. They were of the same kind as we had found elsewhere, +but finer, being from nine to ten inches long, and two to three +inches deep, and in such good condition that they might have been +fried in their own fat. It is a remarkable fact, that these were +the first blacks who have offered us any fish since we reached +Cooper's Creek. + +Friday, 21st December.--We left Camp 70 at half-past five A.M., and +tried to induce one or two of the blacks to go with us, but it was +of no use. Keeping our former course we were pulled up at three +miles by a fine lagoon, and then by the creek that flows into it; +the latter being full of water, we were obliged to trace it a mile +up before we could cross. I observed on its banks two wild plants +of the gourd or melon tribe, one much resembling a stunted +cucumber: the other, both in leaf and appearance of fruit, was very +similar to a small model of a water melon. [Footnote: Probably +Muckia micrantha.--F.M.] The latter plant I also found at Camp 68. +On tasting the pulp of the newly-found fruit, which was about the +size of a large pea, I found it to be so acrid that it was with +difficulty that I removed the taste from my mouth. At eight or nine +miles from where we crossed the creek we passed another large +lagoon, leaving it two miles on our left, and shortly afterwards we +saw one nearly as far on our right. This last we should have +availed ourselves of, but that we expected to find water in a creek +which we could see, by the timber lining its banks, flowed from the +lagoon on our left and crossed our course a few miles ahead. We +reached it at a distance of four or five miles farther, and found a +splendid waterhole at which we camped. The creek at the point flows +in a northerly direction through a large lightly timbered flat, on +which it partially runs out. The ground is, however, sound and well +clothed with grass and salsolaceous plants. Up to this point the +country through which we have passed has been of the finest +description for pastoral purposes. The grass and saltbush are +everywhere abundant, and water is plentiful with every appearance +of permanence. We met with porcupine grass, [Footnote: Triodia +pungens.--Br.] and only two sand ridges before reaching Camp 71. + +FIELD BOOK 2. + +CAMP 72 TO 78. LATITUDE 27 TO 25 1/2 DEGREES S.L. + +Saturday, 22nd December.--At five minutes to five A.M. we left one +of the most delightful camps we have had in the journey, and +proceeded on the same course as before, north-west by north, across +some high ridges of loose sand, many of which were partially +clothed with porcupine grass. We found the ground much worse to +travel over than any we have yet met with, as the ridges were +exceedingly abrupt and steep on their eastern side, and although +sloping gradually towards the west, were so honeycombed in some +places by the burrows of rats, that the camels were continually in +danger of falling. At a distance of about six miles, we descended +from these ridges to undulating country of open box forest, where +everything was green and fresh. There is an abundance of grass and +salt bushes, and lots of birds of all descriptions. Several flocks +of pigeons passed over our heads, making for a point a little to +our right, where there is no doubt plenty of water, but we did not +go off our course to look for it. Beyond the box forest, which +keeps away to the right, we again entered the sand ridges, and at a +distance of six miles, passed close to a dry salt lagoon, the +ridges in the vicinity of which are less regular in their form and +direction, and contain nodules of limestone. The ground in the +flats and claypans near, has that encrusted surface that cracks +under the pressure of the foot, and is a sure indication of saline +deposits. At a distance of eight miles from the lagoon, we camped +at the foot of a sand ridge, jutting out on the stony desert. I was +rather disappointed, but not altogether surprised, to find the +latter nothing more nor less than the stony rises that we had +before met with, only on a larger scale and not quite as +undulating. During the afternoon several crows came to feed on the +plain. They came from an east-north-east direction, no doubt from a +portion of the creek that flows through the forest that we left on +our right. In the morning, as we were loading, a duck passed over, +but it was too dark to see which way it went. + +Sunday, 23rd December.--At five A.M. we struck out across the +desert in a west-north-west direction. At four and a-half miles we +crossed a sand ridge, and then returned to our north-west by north +course. We found the ground not nearly as bad for travelling on as +that between Bulloo and Cooper's Creek. In fact I do not know +whether it arose from our exaggerated anticipation of horrors or +not, but we thought it far from bad travelling ground, and as to +pasture it is only the actually stony ground that is bare, and many +a sheep run is in fact worse grazing ground than that. At fifteen +miles we crossed another sand ridge, for several miles round which +there is plenty of grass and fine salt bush. After crossing this +ridge we descended to an earthy plain, where the ground was rather +heavy, being in some places like pieces of slaked lime, and +intersected by small watercourses; flocks of pigeons rose from +amongst the salt bushes and polygonum; but all the creeks were dry, +although marked by lines of box timber. Several gunyahs of the +blacks were situated near a waterhole that had apparently contained +water very lately, and heaps of grass were lying about the plains, +from which they had beaten the seeds. We pushed on, hoping to find +the creeks assuming an improved appearance, but they did not, and +at one o'clock we halted, intending to travel through part of the +night. About sunset, three flocks of pigeons passed over us, all +going in the same direction, due north by compass, and passing over +a ridge of sand in that direction. Not to have taken notice of such +an occurrence would have been little short of a sin, so we +determined to go eight or ten miles in that direction. Starting at +seven o'clock P.M., we, at six miles, crossed the ridge over which +the birds had flown, and came on a flat, subject to inundation. The +ground was at first hard and even like the bottom of a claypan, but +at a mile or so, we came on cracked earthy ground, intersected by +numberless small channels running in all directions. At nine miles +we reached the bed of a creek running from east to west: it was +only bordered by polygonum bushes, but as there was no timber +visible on the plains, we thought it safer to halt until daylight, +for fear we should miss the water. At daylight, when we had +saddled, a small quantity of timber could be seen at the point of a +sand ridge about a mile and a half or two miles to the west of us, +and on going there we found a fine creek, with a splendid sheet of +water more than a mile long, and averaging nearly three chains +broad: it is, however, only two or three feet deep in most parts. + +Monday, 24th December, 1860.--We took a day of rest on Gray's Creek +to celebrate Christmas. This was doubly pleasant, as we had never, +in our most sanguine moments, anticipated finding such a delightful +oasis in the desert. Our camp was really an agreeable place, for we +had all the advantages of food and water, attending a position of a +large creek or river, and were at the same time free from the +annoyance of the numberless ants, flies, and mosquitoes that are +invariably met with amongst timber or heavy scrub. + +Tuesday, 25th December, 1860.--We left Gray's Creek at half-past +four A.M. and proceeded to cross the earthy rotten plains in the +direction of Eyre's Creek. At a distance of about nine miles we +reached some lines of trees and bushes which were visible from the +top of the sand ridge at Gray's Creek. We found them growing on the +banks of several small creeks which trend to the north and +north-north-west; at a mile and a half further we crossed a small +creek north-north-east, and joining the ones above mentioned. This +creek contained abundance of water in small detached holes from +fifty to a hundred links long, well shaded by steep banks and +overhanging bushes. The water had a suspiciously transparent colour +and a slight trace of brackishness, but the latter was scarcely +perceptible. Near where the creek joined the holes is a sandhill +and a dense mass of fine timber. The smoke of a fire indicated the +presence of blacks, who soon made their appearance and followed us +for some distance, beckoning us away to the north-east. We however +continued our course north-west by north, but at a distance of one +mile and a half found that the creek did not come round as we +expected, and that the fall of the water was in a direction nearly +opposite to our course, or about west to east. We struck off north +half west for a high sand ridge, from which we anticipated seeing +whether it were worth while for us to follow the course of the +creeks we had crossed. We were surprised to find all the +watercourses on the plains trending rather to the south of east, +and at a distance of three miles, after changing our course, and +when we approached the sandhills towards which we had been +steering, we were agreeably pulled up by a magnificent creek coming +from the north-north-west, and running in the direction of the fire +we had seen. We had now no choice but to change our course again, +for we could not have crossed even if we had desired to do so. On +following up the south bank of the creek we found it soon keeping a +more northerly course than it had where we first struck it. This +fact, together with its magnitude and general appearance, lessened +the probability of its being Eyre's Creek, as seemed at first very +likely from their relative positions and directions. The day being +very hot and the camels tired from travelling over the earthy +plains, which by-the-by are not nearly so bad as those at the head +of Cooper's Creek, we camped at one P.M., having traced the creek +up about five miles, not counting the bends. For the whole of this +distance we found not a break or interruption of water, which +appears to be very deep; the banks are from twenty to thirty feet +above the water, and very steep; they are clothed near the water's +edge with mint and other weeds, and on the top of each side there +is a belt of box trees and various shrubs. The lower part of the +creek is bounded towards the north by a high red sand ridge, and on +the south side is an extensive plain, intersected by numerous +watercourses, which drain off the water in flood-time. The greater +portion of the plain is at present very bare, but the stalks of dry +grass show that after rain or floods there will be a good crop on +the harder and well drained portion; but I believe the loose earthy +portion supports no vegetation at any time. The inclination of the +ground from the edge of the creek-bank towards the plain is in many +places very considerable; this I should take to indicate that the +flooding is or has been at one time both frequent and regular. + +Wednesday, 26th December, 1860.--We started at five A.M., following +up the creek from point to point of the bends. Its general course +was at first north-by-west, but at about six miles, the sand ridge +on the west closed in on it, and at this point it takes a turn to +the north-north-east for half a mile, and then comes around +suddenly north-west. Up to this point it had been rather improving +in appearance than otherwise, but in the bend to the north-west the +channel is very broad. Its bed being limestone rock and indurated +clay, is for a space of five or six chains quite dry; then +commences another waterhole, the creek keeping a little more +towards north. We crossed the creek here and struck across the +plain in a due north course, for we could see the line of timber +coming up to the sand ridges in that direction. For from seven to +eight miles we did not touch the creek, and the eastern sand ridge +seceded to a distance, in some places of nearly three miles, from +our line, leaving an immense extent of grassy plain between it and +the creek. The distinctly marked feature on the lower part of this +creek is that whenever the main creek is on one side of a plain, +there is always a fine billibong on the opposite side, each of them +almost invariably sticking close to the respective sand ridges. +Before coming to the next bend of the creek a view from the top of +a sandhill showed me that the creek received a large tributary from +the north-west at about two miles above where we had crossed it. A +fine line of timber, running up to the north-west, joined an +extensive tract of box forest, and the branch we were following was +lost to view in a similar forest towards the north. The sand ridge +was so abrupt when we came to the creek, that it was necessary to +descend into its bed through one of the small ravines adjoining it. +We found it partially run out, the bed being sand and strewed with +nodules of lime, some of which were from one half to two feet long: +they had apparently been formed in the sanddowns by infiltration. + +FIELD BOOK 3. + +CAMPS 78 TO 85.* LATITUDE SOUTH 25 1/2 TO 23 3/4 DEGREES. +[Footnote: This Field Book was mostly occupied by notes of +astronomical observations, and surveyor's notes for mapping.] + +Sunday, 30th December, 1860.--Finding that the creek was trending +considerably towards the east without much likelihood of altering +its course, we struck off from it, taking a ten days' supply of +water, as there were ranges visible to the north, which had the +appearance of being stony. A north-east by north course was first +taken for about seven miles in order to avoid them. The whole of +this distance was over alluvial earthy plains, the soil of which +was firm, but the vegetation scanty. + +FIELD BOOK 4. + +CAMPS 85 TO 90. LATITUDE 23 3/4 TO 22 1/4 DEGREES. + +(Fine Country, Tropics.) + +Saturday, 5th January, 1861.--On leaving Camp 84, we found slight +but distinct indications of rain in the groves, and a few blades of +grass and small weeds in the little depressions on the plain: these +indications were, however, so slight, that, but for the fact of our +having found surface-water in two holes near our camp, we should +hardly have noticed them. At a distance of about two miles in a +north-north-easterly direction, we came to a creek with a long +broad shallow waterhole. The well-worn paths, the recent tracks of +natives, and the heaps of shells, on the contents of which the +latter had feasted, showed at once that this creek must be +connected with some creek of considerable importance. The camels +and horses being greatly in need of rest, we only moved up about +half a mile, and camped for the day. + +Sunday, 6th January, 1861.--Started at twenty minutes to six +o'clock, intending to make an easy day's stage along the creek. As +we proceeded up in a northerly direction, we found the waterhole to +diminish in size very much, and at about two and a half miles the +creek ran out in a lot of small watercourses. At the upper end of +the creek we found in its bed what appeared to be an arrangement +for catching fish: it consisted of a small oval mud paddock about +twelve feet by eight feet, the sides of which were about nine +inches above the bottom of the hole, and the top of the fence +covered with long grass, so arranged that the ends of the blades +overhung scantily by several inches the sides of the hole. As there +was no sign of timber to the north, we struck off to north-west by +north for a fine line that came up from south-west, and seemed to +run parallel with the creek we were about to leave. At a distance +of about three miles, we reached the bank of a fine creek +containing a sheet of water two chains broad, and at least fifteen +feet deep in the middle. The banks are shelving, sandy, and lightly +clothed with box trees and various shrubs. On starting to cross the +plains towards this creek we were surprised at the bright green +appearance of strips of land, which look in the distance like +swamps. On approaching some of them, we found that there had been a +considerable fall of rain in some places, which had raised a fine +crop of grass and portulac [Footnote: Portulaca oleracea. L.] +wherever the soil was of a sandy and light nature; but the amount +of moisture had been insufficient to affect the hard clayey ground +which constitutes the main portion of the plain. The sight of two +native companions feeding here, added greatly to the encouraging +prospects; they are the only specimens of that bird that I remember +to have seen on that side of the Darling. + +7th January, 1861.--We started at half-past four A.M. without +water, thinking that we might safely rely on this creek for one +day's journey. We, however, found the line of timber soon began to +look small; at three miles the channel contained only a few pools +of surface water. We continued across the plains on a due north +course, frequently crossing small watercourses, which had been +filled by the rain, but were fast drying up. Here and there, as we +proceeded, dense lines of timber on our right showed that the creek +came from the east of north; at a distance of thirteen miles we +turned to the north-north-east towards a fine line of timber. We +found a creek of considerable dimensions, that had only two or +three small water-holes, but as there was more than sufficient for +us, and very little feed for the beasts anywhere else, we camped. I +should have liked this camp to have been in a more prominent and +easily recognizable position, as it happens to be almost exactly on +the tropic of Capricorn. The tremendous gale of wind that we had in +the evening and night prevented me from taking a latitude +observation, whereas I had some good ones at the last camp and at +Camp 87. My reckoning cannot be far out. I found, on taking out my +instruments, that one of the spare thermometers was broken, and the +glass of my aneroid barometer cracked; the latter I believe not +otherwise injured. This was done by the camel having taken it into +his head to roll while the pack was on his back. + +Tuesday, 8th January, 1861.--Started at a quarter past five A.M. +with a load of water, determined to be independent of all creeks +and watercourses. At a mile and a half, found surface water in a +small creek, and at a mile farther, water in two or three places on +the open plains. The country we crossed for the first ten miles +consists of fine open plains of firm argillaceous soils, too stiff +and hard to be affected by the small quantity of rain that has +fallen as yet. They are subject to inundations from the overflow of +a number of small creeks, which intersect them in a direction +east-north-east to west-south-west. Nearly all the creeks are lined +with box trees and shrubs in a tolerably healthy state; of the +remains of dead trees there is only a fair proportion to the living +ones. After traversing a plain of greater extent than the rest, we, +at ten miles, reached the creek, proportionately large and +important looking. The channel, however, at the point where we +struck it, was deep, level, and dry; but I believe there is water +in it not far off, for there were some red-breasted cockatoos in +the trees, and native parrots on each side. On the north side there +is a part bearing off to the north-north-west. The mirage on the +plain to the south of the creek was stronger than I have before +seen it. There appear to be sheets of water within a few yards of +one, and it looks sufficiently smooth and glassy to be used for an +artificial horizon. To the westward of the plains, some fine +sandhills were visible, nearly in the direction in which the creek +flowed. To the north of the creek the country undergoes a great +change. At first there is a little earthy land subject to +inundation. The soil then becomes more sandy, with stony pans in +which water collects after rain; the whole country is slightly +undulating, lightly timbered, and splendidly grassed. A number of +small disconnected creeks are scattered about, many of which +contained water protected from the sun and wind by luxuriant growth +of fine grasses and small bushes. We passed one or two little rises +of sand and pebbles, on which were growing some trees quite new to +me; but for the seed pods I should have taken them for a species of +Casuarina, although the leaf-stalks have not the jointed +peculiarities of those plants. The trunks and branches are like the +she oak, the leaves like those of a pine; they droop like a willow, +and the seed is small, flat, in a large flat pod, about six inches +by three-quarters of an inch. As we proceeded, the country improved +at every step. Flocks of pigeons rose and flew off to the eastward, +and fresh plants met our view on every rise; everything green and +luxuriant. The horse licked his lips, and tried all he could to +break his nose-string in order to get at the food. We camped at the +foot of a sandy rise, where there was a large stony pan with plenty +of water, and where the feed was equal in quality, and superior as +to variety, to any that I have seen in Australia, excepting perhaps +on some soils of volcanic origin. + +Wednesday, 9th January, 1861.--Started at five minutes past five, +without water, trusting to get a supply of water from the rain that +fell during the thunderstorm. Traversed six miles of undulating +plains covered with vegetation richer than ever. Several ducks rose +from the little creeks as we passed, and flocks of pigeons were +flying in all directions. The richness of the vegetation is +evidently not suddenly arising from chance thunderstorms, for the +trees and bushes on the open plain are everywhere healthy and fresh +looking; very few dead ones are to be seen; besides which, the +quantity of dead and rotten grass which at present almost +overpowers in some places the young blades shows that this is not +the first crop of the kind. The grasses are numerous and many of +them unknown to me, but they only constitute a moderate portion of +the herbage. Several kinds of spurious vetches and portulac, as +well as salsolaceae, add to the luxuriance of the vegetation. At +seven miles we found ourselves in an open forest country, where the +feed was good, but not equal to what we had passed, neither had it +been visited by yesterday's rain. We soon emerged again on open +plains, but the soil being of a more clayish nature, they were not +nearly so much advanced in vegetation as the others. We found +surface water in several places, and at one spot disturbed a fine +bustard which was feeding in the long grass; we did not see him +until he flew up. I should have mentioned that one flew over our +camp last evening in a northerly direction; this speaks well for +the country and climate. At noon we came to a large creek the +course of which was from east-north-east to west-south-west; the +sight of the white gum trees in the distance had raised hopes, +which were not at all damped on a close inspection of the channel. +At the point where we struck it there was certainly no great +quantity of water; the bed was broad and sandy, but its whole +appearance was that of an important watercourse, and the large gums +which line its banks, together with the improved appearance of the +soil, and the abundance of feed in the vicinity, satisfied us as to +the permanency of the water and the value of the discovery. +Although it was so early in the day, and we were anxious to make a +good march, yet we camped here, as it seemed to be almost a sin to +leave such good quarters. The bed of the creek is loose sand, +through which the water freely permeates; it is, however, +sufficiently coarse not to be boggy, and animals can approach the +water without any difficulty. + +Thursday, 10th January, 1861.--At twenty minutes past five A.M., we +left our camp with a full supply of water, determined to risk no +reverses, and to make a good march. I should mention that last +evening we had been nearly deafened by the noise of the cicadariae, +and but for our large fires should have been kept awake all night +by the mosquitoes. A walk of two miles across a well grassed plain +brought us to a belt of timber, and we soon afterwards found +ourselves pulled up by a large creek in which the water was broad +and deep; we had to follow up the bank of the creek in a +north-easterly direction for nearly a mile before we could cross, +when to our joy we found that it was flowing; not a muddy stream +from the effects of recent floods, but a small rivulet of pure +water as clear as crystal. The bed of the river at this place is +deep and rather narrow; the water flows over sand and pebbles, +winding its way between clumps of melalema, and gum saplings. After +leaving the river, we kept our old course due north, crossing, at a +distance of one mile, three creeks with gum trees on their banks. +The soil of the flats through which they flow is a red loam of fair +quality and well grassed. Beyond the third creek is a large plain, +parts of which are very stony, and this is bounded towards the east +by a low stony rise, partly composed of decayed and honeycombed +quartz rock in situ, and partly of waterworn pebbles and other +alluvial deposits. At about two miles across this plain, we reached +the first of a series of small creeks with deep waterholes: these +creeks and holes have the characteristics peculiar to watercourses +which are found in flats formed from the alluvial deposits of +schistose rocks. The banks are on a level with the surrounding +ground, and are irregularly marked by small trees, or only by tufts +of long grass which overhang the channel and frequently hide it +from one's view, even when within a few yards. At about five miles +from where we crossed the river, we came to the main creek in these +flats, Patten's Creek; it flows along at the foot of a stony range, +and we had to trace it up nearly a mile in a north-north-easterly +direction before we could cross it; as it happened, we might almost +as well have followed its course up the flat, for at a little more +than two miles we came to it again. We re-crossed it at a stony +place just below a very large waterhole, and then continued our +course over extensive plains, not so well grassed as those we had +passed before, and very stony in some places. At eight miles from +Patten's Creek, we came to another, running from south-west to +south-east: there was plenty of water in it, but it was evidently +the result of recent local rains. On the banks was an abundance of +good feed but very little timber. + +Friday, 11th January, 1861.--We started at five A.M., and in the +excitement of exploring fine well-watered country, forgot all about +the eclipse of the sun until the reduced temperature and peculiarly +gloomy appearance of the sky drew our attention to the matter; it +was then too late to remedy the deficiency, so we made a good day's +journey, the moderation of the midday heat, which was only about 86 +degrees, greatly assisting us. The country traversed has the most +verdant and cheerful aspect; abundance of feed and water +everywhere. All the creeks seen to-day have a course more or less +to the east by south. The land improves in appearance at every +mile. A quantity of rain has fallen here and to the south, and some +of the flats are suitable for cultivation, if the regularity of the +seasons will admit. + +FIELD BOOK 5. + +CAMPS 92 TO 95. LATITUDE 22 1/4 TO 21 1/4 DEGREES. + +(Standish Ranges.) + +Saturday, 12th January, 1861.--We started at five A.M., and, +keeping as nearly as possible a due north course, traversed for +about eight miles a splendid flat, through which flow several fine +well-watered creeks, lined with white gum trees. We then entered a +series of slaty, low, sandstone ranges, amongst which were some +well-grassed flats, and plenty of water in the main gullies. The +more stony portions are, however, covered with porcupine grass, and +here and there with mallee; large ant-hills are very numerous; they +vary in height from two and a half to four feet. There was a +continuous rise perceptible all the way in crossing the ranges, and +from the highest portion, which we reached at a distance of about +seven miles, we had a pretty good view of the country towards the +north. As far as we could see in the distance, and bearing due +north, was a large range, having somewhat the outline of a granite +mountain. The east end of this range just comes up to the magnetic +north; on the left of this, and bearing north-north-west, is a +single conical peak, the top of which only is visible. Further to +the west there were some broken ranges, apparently sandstone; to +the east of north the tops of very distant and apparently higher +ranges were seen, the outline of which was so indistinct that I can +form no idea as to their character; the intermediate country below +us appeared alternations of fine valleys and stony ranges, such as +we had just been crossing. From here a descent of two miles brought +us to a creek having a northern course, but on tracing it down for +about a mile, we found it to turn to the south-east and join +another from the north. We crossed over to the latter on a +north-by-west course, and camped on the west bank. It has a broad +sandy channel; the waterholes are large, but not deep; the banks +are bordered with fine white gums, and are in some places very +scrubby. There is abundance of rich green feed everywhere in the +vicinity. We found here numerous indications of blacks having been +here, but saw nothing of them. It seems remarkable that where their +tracks are so plentiful, we should have seen none since we left +King's Creek. I observed that the natives here climb trees as those +on the Murray do, in search of some animal corresponding in habits +to the opossum, which they get out of the hollow branches in a +similar manner. I have not yet been able to ascertain what the +animal is. + +Sunday, 13th January, 1861.--We did not leave camp this morning +until half-past seven, having delayed for the purpose of getting +the camels' shoes on--a matter in which we were eminently +unsuccessful. We took our breakfast before starting, for almost the +first time since leaving the depot. Having crossed the creek, our +course was due north as before, until, at about six miles, we came +in sight of the range ahead, when we took a north-half-east +direction for the purpose of clearing the eastern front of it. We +found the ground more sandy than what we had before crossed, and a +great deal of it even more richly grassed. Camp 93 is situate at +the junction of three sandy creeks, in which there is abundance of +water. The sand is loose, and the water permeates freely, so that +the latter may be obtained delightfully cool and clear by sinking +anywhere in the beds of the creeks. + +FIELD BOOK 6. + +CAMPS 98 TO 105. LATITUDE 21 1/4 TO 20 1/4 DEGREES. + +(Upper part of Cloncurry.) + +Saturday, 19th January, 1861.--Started from Camp 98 at 5.30 A.M., +and passing to the north-west of Mount Forbes, across a fine and +well-grassed plain, kept at first a north-by-east direction. At a +distance of three miles, the plain became everywhere stony, being +scattered over with quartz pebbles; and a little further on we came +to low quartz ranges, the higher portions of which are covered with +porcupine grass, but the valleys are well clothed with a variety of +coarse and rank herbage. At about five miles we crossed a creek +with a sandy bed, which has been named Green's Creek; there were +blacks not far above where we crossed, but we did not disturb them. +After crossing the creek, we took a due north course over very +rugged quartz ranges of an auriferous character. Pieces of iron +ore, very rich, were scattered in great numbers over some of the +hills. On our being about to cross one of the branch creeks in the +low range, we surprised some blacks--a man who, with a young fellow +apparently his son, was upon a tree, cutting out something; and a +lubra with a piccaninny. The two former did not see me until I was +nearly close to them, and then they were dreadfully frightened; +jumping down from the trees, they started off, shouting what +sounded to us very like "Joe, Joe." Thus disturbed, the lubra, who +was at some distance from them, just then caught sight of the +camels and the remainder of the party as they came over the hill +into the creek, and this tended to hasten their flight over the +stones and porcupine grass. Crossing the range at the head of this +creek, we came on a gully running north, down which we proceeded, +and soon found it open out into a creek, at two or three points in +which we found water. On this creek we found the first specimen of +an eucalyptus, which has a very different appearance from the +members of the gum-tree race. It grows as high as a good-sized gum +tree, but with the branches less spreading: in shape it much +resembles the elm; the foliage is dark, like that of the light +wood; the trunk and branches are covered with a grey bark +resembling in outward appearance that of the box tree. Finding that +the creek was trending too much to the eastward, we struck off to +the north again, and at a short distance came on a fine creek +running about south-south-east. As it was now nearly time to camp, +we travelled it up for about one and a-half mile, and came to a +fine waterhole in a rocky basin, at which there were lots of birds. + +FIELD BOOK 7. + +CAMPS 105 TO 112. LATITUDE 20 1/4 TO 19 1/4 DEGREES. + +(Middle part of Cloncurry.) + +Sunday, 27th January, 1861.--Started from Camp 105 at five minutes +past two in the morning. We followed along the bends of the creek +by moonlight, and found the creek wind about very much, taking on +the whole a north-east course. At about five miles it changed +somewhat its features; from a broad and sandy channel, winding +about through gum-tree flats, it assumes the unpropitious +appearance of a straight, narrow creek, running in a +north-north-east direction between high, perpendicular, earthy +banks. After running between three or four miles in this manner, it +took a turn to the west, at which point there is a fine waterhole, +and then assumed its original character. Below this we found water +at several places, but it all seemed to be either from surface +drainage or from springs in the sand. The land in the vicinity of +the creek appears to have received plenty of rain, the vegetation +everywhere green and fresh; but there is no appearance of the creek +having flowed in this part of the channel for a considerable +period. Palm trees are numerous, and some bear an abundance of +small, round dates (nuts) just ripening. These palms give a most +picturesque and pleasant appearance to the creek. + +Wednesday, 30th January, 1861.--Started at half-past seven A.M., +after several unsuccessful attempts at getting Golah out of the bed +of the creek. It was determined to try bringing him down until we +could find a place for him to get out at; but after going in this +way two or three miles it was found necessary to leave him behind, +as it was almost impossible to get him through some of the +waterholes, and had separated King from the party, which became a +matter for very serious consideration when we found blacks hiding +in the box trees close to us. + +. . . + +Having reached the point indicated by the last date and passage in" +Field Book 7," Mr. Burke and my son determined to leave Gray and +King there in charge of the camels, and to proceed onwards to the +shores of Carpentaria, themselves on foot and leading the horse. +The river or creek down which they passed is named in the journal +the Cloncurry. The channel making a sudden turn, my son remarked +that it might be a new river. "If it should prove so," said Mr. +Burke, "we will call it after my old friend Lord Cloncurry." + +With reference to this locality, marked in the map as Camp 119, +King was asked in his examination before the Royal Commissioners: + +Question 815. Was the water salt?--Quite salt. + +816. Who first made the discovery of reaching the sea, or did you +all come upon it together; that is, reaching the salt water where +the tide was?--Mr. Wills knew it; he had told us two or three days +before we reached the salt water that we were in the country that +had been discovered by Mr. Gregory and other previous explorers. + +817. Some days before you got upon it he told you that?--Yes, and +showed us on the chart the supposed place where Mr. Gregory crossed +this small creek. + +It will be seen by these answers of King, that Mr. Burke assumed no +topographical knowledge of the position. The Melbourne Argus stated +and repeated that he had mistaken the Flinders for the Albert. Now +the river in question was never mentioned as either, and the +mistake, if made, was Mr. Wills's and not Mr. Burke's. This portion +of the map was said to have been lost on the morning of its arrival +in Melbourne; and this I can readily believe, as also that more +might have met with the same fate had I not fortunately been there. + +. . . + +FIELD BOOK 8. + +CAMPS 112 TO 119. SOUTH LATITUDE 19 1/4 TO 17 DEGREES 53 MINUTES. + +Lower part of Cloncurry. + +. . . + +FIELD BOOK 9. + +Returning from Carpentaria to Cooper's Creek. + +Sunday, February, 1861.--Finding the ground in such a state from the +heavy falls of rain, that camels could scarcely be got along, it +was decided to leave them at Camp 119, and for Mr. Burke and I to +proceed towards the sea on foot. After breakfast we accordingly +started, taking with us the horse and three days' provisions. Our +first difficulty was in crossing Billy's Creek, which we had to do +where it enters the river, a few hundred yards below the camp. In +getting the horse in here, he got bogged in a quicksand bank so +deeply as to be unable to stir, and we only succeeded in +extricating him by undermining him on the creek's side, and then +lugging him into the water. Having got all the things in safety, we +continued down the river bank, which bent about from east to west, +but kept a general north course. A great deal of the land was so +soft and rotten that the horse, with only a saddle and about +twenty-five pounds on his back, could scarcely walk over it. At a +distance of about five miles we again had him bogged in crossing a +small creek, after which he seemed so weak that we had great doubts +about getting him on. We, however, found some better ground close +to the water's edge, where the sandstone rock crops out, and we +stuck to it as far as possible. Finding that the river was bending +about so much that we were making very little progress in a +northerly direction, we struck off due north and soon came on some +table-land, where the soil is shallow and gravelly, and clothed +with box and swamp gums. Patches of the land were very boggy, but +the main portion was sound enough; beyond this we came on an open +plain, covered with water up to one's ankles. The soil here was a +stiff clay, and the surface very uneven, so that between the tufts +of grass one was frequently knee deep in water. The bottom, +however, was sound and no fear of bogging. After floundering +through this for several miles, we came to a path formed by the +blacks, and there were distinct signs of a recent migration in a +southerly direction. By making use of this path we got on much +better, for the ground was well trodden and hard. At rather more +than a mile, the path entered a forest through which flowed a nice +watercourse, and we had not gone far before we found places where +the blacks had been camping. The forest was intersected by little +pebbly rises, on which they had made their fires, and in the sandy +ground adjoining some of the former had been digging yams, which +seemed to be so numerous that they could afford to leave lots of +them about, probably having only selected the very best. We were +not so particular, but ate many of those that they had rejected, +and found them very good. About half a mile further, we came close +on a black fellow, who was coiling up by a camp fire, whilst his +gin and piccaninny were yabbering alongside. We stopped for a short +time to take out some of the pistols that were on the horse, and +that they might see us before we were so near as to frighten them. +Just after we stopped, the black got up to stretch his limbs, and +after a few seconds looked in our direction. It was very amusing to +see the way in which he stared, standing for some time as if he +thought he must be dreaming, and then, having signalled to the +others, they dropped on their haunches, and shuffled off in the +quietest manner possible. Near their fire was a fine hut, the best +I have ever seen, built on the same principle as those at Cooper's +Creek, but much larger and more complete: I should say a dozen +blacks might comfortably coil in it together. It is situated at the +end of the forest towards the north, and looks out on an extensive +marsh, which is at times flooded by the sea water. Hundreds of wild +geese, plover and pelicans, were enjoying themselves in the +watercourses on the marsh, all the water on which was too brackish +to be drinkable, except some holes that are filled by the stream +that flows through the forest. The neighbourhood of this encampment +is one of the prettiest we have seen during the journey. Proceeding +on our course across the marsh, we came to a channel through which +the sea water enters. Here we passed three blacks, who, as is +universally their custom, pointed out to us, unasked, the best part +down. This assisted us greatly, for the ground we were taking was +very boggy. We moved slowly down about three miles and then camped +for the night; the horse Billy being completely baked. Next morning +we started at daybreak, leaving the horse short hobbled. + +Memo.--Verbally transcribed from the Field Books of the late Mr. +Wills. Very few words, casually omitted in the author's +manuscripts, have been added in brackets. A few botanical +explanations have been appended. A few separate general remarks +referring to this portion of the diary will be published, together +with the meteorological notes to which they are contiguous. No +other notes in reference to this portion of the journey are extant. + +5/11/61 FERD. MUELLER. + +. . . + +It will be observed in following these Field Books that there +are occasional intervals and omissions, which I account for thus: +--My son's first entries, in pencil, are more in the form of notes, +with observations, and figures to guide him in mapping; because, +when his maps are accurate and attended to, his journal is +imperfect, and vice versa. Besides, there can be no doubt that Mr. +Burke kept a journal, though perhaps not a complete one, and of +which a very small portion has come to hand. In it he mentions a +difficult pass they went through on the route to Carpentaria, of +which my son does not speak. King confirms Mr. Burke's statement, +and says my son knew he had written it, which was the reason why he +did not himself repeat the same passage. + +The Royal Commissioners in their Report said: + +"It does not appear that Mr. Burke kept any regular journal, or +that he gave written instructions to his officers. Had he performed +these essential portions of the duties of a leader, many of the +calamities of the Expedition might have been averted, and little or +no room would have been left for doubt in judging the conduct of +those subordinates who pleaded unsatisfactory and contradictory +verbal orders and statements." + +With all due submission and humility, I think this opinion too +conclusive, and formed on unsatisfactory evidence, as any statement +must be considered, proceeding from one who destroyed his own +credit by self-contradiction to the extent that Mr. Brahe did. He +admitted, on his examination, that he had burnt some of Mr. Burke's +papers at Mr. Burke's own request. How then is it possible to +determine what he may otherwise have burnt or placed out of the +way? In fact, what written instructions, if any, he did or not +receive, and what he did with them? + +CHAPTER 10. + +Return from Carpentaria to Cooper's Creek. +Mr. Wills's Journals from February 19th to April 21st, 1861. +Illness and Death of Gray. +The Survivors arrive at Cooper's Creek Depot and find it deserted. +A Small Stock of Provisions left. +Conduct of Brahe. +Report of the Royal Commission. + +MR. BURKE and Mr. Wills having accomplished the grand object of the +Expedition by reaching the Gulf of Carpentaria, rejoined Gray and +King at Camp 119, where they had left them with the camels. On the +13th of February the party turned their faces to the south, and +commenced their long and toilsome march in return. The entries in +my son's journals were transcribed as follows:-- + +Tuesday, 19th February, 1861.--Boocha's Camp. + +Wednesday, 20th February, 1861.--Pleasant Camp; 5R. + +Thursday, 21st February, 1861.--Recovery Camp; 6R. Between four +and five o'clock a heavy thunderstorm broke over us, having given +very little warning of its approach. There had been lightning and +thunder towards south-east and south ever since noon yesterday. The +rain was incessant and very heavy for an hour and a half, which +made the ground so boggy that the animals could scarcely walk over +it; we nevertheless started at ten minutes to seven A.M., and after +floundering along for half an hour halted for breakfast. We then +moved on again, but soon found that the travelling was too heavy +for the camels, so camped for the remainder of the day. In the +afternoon the sky cleared a little, and the sun soon dried the +ground, considering. Shot a pheasant, and much disappointed at +finding him all feathers and claws. This bird nearly resembles a +cock pheasant in plumage, but in other respects it bears more the +character of the magpie or crow; the feathers are remarkably wiry +and coarse. + +Friday, 22nd February, 1861.--Camp 7R. A fearful thunderstorm in +the evening, about eight P.M., from east-south-east, moving +gradually round to south. The flashes of lightning were so vivid +and incessant as to keep up a continual light for short intervals, +overpowering the moonlight. Heavy rain and strong squalls continued +for more than an hour, when the storm moved off west-north-west. +The sky remained more or less overcast for the rest of the night, +and the following morning was both sultry and oppressive, with the +ground so boggy as to be almost impassable. + +Saturday, 23rd February, 1861.--Camp 8R. In spite of the +difficulties thrown in our way by last night's storm, we crossed +the creek, but were shortly afterwards compelled to halt for the +day on a small patch of comparatively dry ground, near the river. +The day turned out very fine, so that the soil dried rapidly, and +we started in the evening to try a trip by moonlight. We were very +fortunate in finding sound ground along a billibong, which +permitted of our travelling for about five miles up the creek, when +we camped for the night. The evening was most oppressively hot and +sultry, so much so that the slightest exertion made one feel as if +he were in a state of suffocation. The dampness of the atmosphere +prevented any evaporation, and gave one a helpless feeling of +lassitude that I have never before experienced to such an extent. +All the party complained of the same symptoms, and the horses +showed distinctly the effect of the evening trip, short as it was. +We had scarcely turned in half an hour when it began to rain, some +heavy clouds having come up from the eastward in place of the layer +of small cirrocumulus that before ornamented the greater portion of +the sky. These clouds soon moved on, and we were relieved from the +dread of additional mud. After the sky cleared, the atmosphere +became rather cooler and less sultry, so that, with the assistance +of a little smoke to keep the mosquitoes off, we managed to pass a +tolerable night. + +Sunday, 24th February, 1861.--Camp 9R. Comparatively little rain +has fallen above the branch creek with the running water. The +vegetation, although tolerably fresh, is not so rank as that we +have left; the water in the creek is muddy, but good, and has been +derived merely from the surface drainage of the adjoining plains. +The Melaleneus continues on this branch creek, which creeps along +at the foot of the ranges. + +Monday, 25th February, 1861.--Camp 10R. There has been very little +rain on this portion of the creek since we passed down; there was, +however, no water at all then at the pans. At the Tea-tree spring, +a short distance up the creek, we found plenty of water in the +sand, but it had a disagreeable taste, from the decomposition of +leaves and the presence of mineral matter, probably iron. There +seems to have been a fair share of rain along here, everything is +so very fresh and green, and there is water in many of the channels +we have crossed. + +Tuesday, 26th February, 1861.--Apple-tree Camp; 11R. + +Thursday, 28th February, 1861.--Reedy Gully Camp; 12R. Came into +the Reedy Gully Camp about midnight on Tuesday, the 26th; remained +there throughout the day on Wednesday; starting at two A.M. on +Thursday. + +Friday, 1st March, 1861.--Camp of the Three Crows; 13R. + +Saturday, 2nd March, 1861.--Salt-bush Camp; 14R. Found Golah. He +looks thin and miserable; seems to have fretted a great deal, +probably at finding himself left behind, and he has been walking up +and down our tracks till he has made a regular pathway; could find +no sign of his having been far off, although there is a splendid +feed to which he could have gone. He began to eat as soon as he saw +the other camels. + +Sunday, 3rd March, 1861.--Eureka Camp; 15R. In crossing a creek by +moonlight, Charley rode over a large snake; he did not touch him, +and we thought that it was a log until he struck it with the +stirrup iron; we then saw that it was an immense snake, larger than +any I have ever before seen in a wild state. It measured eight feet +four inches in length and seven inches in girth round the belly; it +was nearly the same thickness from the head to within twenty inches +of the tail; it then tapered rapidly. The weight was 11 1/2 pounds. +From the tip of the nose to five inches back, the neck was black, +both above and below; throughout the rest of the body, the under +part was yellow, and the sides and back had irregular brown +transverse bars on a yellowish brown ground. I could detect no +poisonous fangs, but there were two distinct rows of teeth in each +jaw, and two small claws of nails, about three-eighths of an inch +long, one on each side of the vent. + +Monday, 4th March, 1861.--Feasting Camp; 16R. Shortly after +arriving at Camp 16 we could frequently hear distant thunder +towards the east, from which quarter the wind was blowing. During +the afternoon there were frequent heavy showers, and towards +evening it set in to rain steadily but lightly; this lasted till +about eight P.M., when the rain ceased and the wind got round to +west; the sky, however, remained overcast until late in the night, +and then cleared for a short time; the clouds were soon succeeded +by a dense fog or mist, which continued until morning. The vapour +having then risen, occupied the upper air in the form of light +cirrostratus and cumulus clouds. + +Tuesday, 5th March, 1861.--Camp 17R. Started at two A.M. on a +south-south-westerly course, but had soon to turn in on the creek, +as Mr. Burke felt very unwell, having been attacked by dysentery +since eating the snake; he now felt giddy and unable to keep his +seat. At six A.M., Mr. Burke feeling better, we started again, +following along the creek, in which there was considerably more +water than when we passed down. We camped, at 2.15 P.M., at a part +of the creek where the date trees [Footnote: Probably Livistonas.] +were very numerous, and found the fruit nearly ripe and very much +improved on what it was when we were here before. + +Wednesday, 6th March, 1861.--Camp 18R. Arrived at our former camp, +and found the feed richer than ever, and the ants just as +troublesome. Mr. Burke is a little better, and Charley looks +comparatively well. The dryness of the atmosphere seems to have a +beneficial effect on all. We found yesterday, that it was a +hopeless matter about Golah, and we were obliged to leave him +behind, as he seemed to be completely done up and could not come +on, even when the pack and saddle were taken off. + +Thursday, 7th March, 1861.--Fig-tree Camp; 19R; Palm-tree Camp, +104, and 20 degrees Latitude, by observation, coming down, 20 +degrees 21 minutes 40 seconds. There is less water here than there +was when we passed down, although there is evidence of the creek +having been visited by considerable floods during the interval. +Feed is abundant, and the vegetation more fresh than before. Mr. +Burke almost recovered, but Charley is again very unwell and unfit +to do anything; he caught cold last night through carelessness in +covering himself. + +Friday, 8th March, 1861.--Camp 20R. Followed the creek more closely +coming up than going down. Found more water in it generally. + +Saturday, 9th March, 1861.--Camp 21R. Reached our former camp at 1. +30 P.M. Found the herbage much dried up, but still plenty of feed +for the camels. + +Sunday, 10th March, 1861.--Camp 22R. Camped at the junction of a +small creek from the westward, a short distance below our former +camp, there being plenty of good water here, whereas the supply at +Specimen Camp is very doubtful. + +Monday, 11th March, 1861.--Camp 23R. Halted for breakfast at the +Specimen Camp at 7.15 A.M., found more water and feed there than +before; then proceeded up the creek and got safely over the most +dangerous part of our journey. Camped near the head of the Gap in a +flat, about two miles below our former camp at the Gap. + +Tuesday, 12th March, 1861.--Camp 24R. + +Wednesday, 13th March, 1861.--Camp 25R. Rain all day, so heavily +that I was obliged to put my watch and field book in the pack to +keep them dry. In the afternoon the rain increased, and all the +creeks became flooded. We took shelter under some fallen rocks, +near which was some feed for the camels; but the latter was of no +value, for we had soon to remove them up amongst the rocks, out of +the way of the flood, which fortunately did not rise high enough to +drive us out of the cave; but we were obliged to shift our packs to +the upper part. In the evening the water fell as rapidly as it had +risen, leaving everything in a very boggy state. There were +frequent light showers during the night. + +Thursday, 14th March, 1861.--Camp 26R; Sandstone cave. The water in +the creek having fallen sufficiently low, we crossed over from the +cave and proceeded down the creek. Our progress was slow, as it was +necessary to keep on the stony ridge instead of following the +flats, the latter being very boggy after the rain. Thinking that +this creek must join Scratchley's, near our old camp, we followed +it a long way, until finding it trend altogether too much eastward, +we tried to shape across for the other creek, but were unable to do +so, from the boggy nature of the intervening plain. + +Friday, 15th March, 1861.--Camp 27R. + +Saturday, 16th March, 1861.--Camp 28R. Scratchley's Creek. + +Sunday, 17th March, 1861.--Camp 29R. + +Monday, 18th March, 1861.--Camp 30R. + +Tuesday, 19th March, 1861.--Camp 31R. + +Wednesday, 20th March, 1861.--Camp 32R. Feasting Camp. Last evening +the sky was clouded about nine P.M., and a shower came down from +the north. At ten o'clock it became so dark that we camped on the +bank of the creek, in which was a nice current of clear water. +To-day we halted, intending to try a night journey. The packs we +overhauled and left nearly 60 pounds weight of things behind. They +were all suspended in a pack from the branches of a shrub close to +the creek. We started at a quarter to six, but were continually +pulled up by billibongs and branch creeks, and soon had to camp for +the night. At the junction of the two creeks just above are the +three cones, which are three remarkably small hills to the +eastward. + +Thursday, 21st March, 1861.--Humid Camp, 33R.--Unable to proceed on +account of the slippery and boggy state of the ground. The rain has +fallen very heavily here to-day, and every little depression in the +ground is either full of water or covered with slimy mud. Another +heavy storm passed over during the night, almost extinguishing the +miserable fire we were able to get up with our very limited +quantity of waterlogged and green wood. Having been so unfortunate +last night, we took an early breakfast this morning at Camp 33, +which I had named the Humid Camp, from the state of dampness in +which we found everything there; and crossing to the east bank of +the main creek, proceeded in a southerly direction nearly parallel +with the creek. Some of the flats near the creek contain the +richest alluvial soil, and are clothed with luxuriant vegetation. +There is an immense extent of plain, back, of the finest character +for pastoral purposes, and the country bears every appearance of +being permanently well watered. We halted on a large billibong at +noon, and were favoured during dinner by a thunderstorm, the +heavier portion of which missed us, some passing north and some +south, which was fortunate, as it would otherwise have spoiled our +baking process, a matter of some importance just now. We started +again at seven o'clock, but the effects of the heavy rain prevented +our making a good journey. + +Friday, 22nd March, 1861.--Muddy Camp, 34R.--Had an early breakfast +this morning, and started before sunrise. Found that the wet swampy +ground that checked our progress last night was only a narrow +strip, and that had we gone a little further we might have made a +fine journey. The country consisted of open, well-grassed, pebbly +plains, intersected by numerous small channels, all containing +water. Abundance of fine rich portulac was just bursting into +flower along all these channels, as well as on the greater portion +of the plain. The creek that we camped on last night ran nearly +parallel with us throughout this stage. We should have crossed it, +to avoid the stony plains, but were prevented by the flood from so +doing. + +Saturday, 23rd March, 1861.--Mosquito Camp, 35R.--Started at a +quarter to six and followed down the creek, which has much of the +characteristic appearance of the River Burke, where we crossed it +on our up journey. The land in the vicinity greatly improves as one +goes down, becoming less stony and better grassed. At eleven +o'clock we crossed a small tributary from the eastward, and there +was a distant range of considerable extent visible in that +direction. Halted for the afternoon in a bend where there was +tolerable feed, but the banks are everywhere more or less scrubby. + +Sunday, 24th March, 1861.--Three-hour Camp, 36R. + +Monday, 25th March, 1861.--Native-Dog Camp, 37R.--Started at +half-past five, looking for a good place to halt for the day. This +we found at a short distance down the creek, and immediately +discovered that it was close to Camp 89 of our up journey. Had not +expected that we were so much to the westward. After breakfast, +took some time-altitudes, and was about to go back to last camp for +some things that had been left, when I found Gray behind a tree +eating skilligolee. He explained that he was suffering from +dysentery, and had taken the flour without leave. Sent him to +report himself to Mr. Burke, and went on. He, having got King to +tell Mr. Burke for him, was called up, and received a good +thrashing. There is no knowing to what extent he has been robbing +us. Many things have been found to run unaccountably short. Started +at seven o'clock, the camels in first-rate spirits. We followed our +old course back (south). The first portion of the plains had much +the same appearance as when we came up, but that near Camp 88, +which then looked so fresh and green, is now very much dried up; +and we saw no signs of water anywhere. In fact, there seems to have +been little or no rain about here since we passed. Soon after three +o'clock we struck the first of several small creeks or billibongs, +which must be portions of the creek with the deep channel that we +crossed on going up, we being now rather to the westward of our +former course. From here, after traversing about two miles of the +barest clay plain, devoid of all vegetation, we reached a small +watercourse, most of the holes in which contained some water of a +milky or creamy description. Fine salt bush and portulac being +abundant in the vicinity, we camped here at 4.30 A.M. When we +started in the evening, a strong breeze had already sprung up in +the south, which conveyed much of the characteristic feeling of a +hot wind. It increased gradually to a force of five and six, but by +eleven o'clock had become decidedly cool, and was so chilly towards +morning that we found it necessary to throw on our ponchos. A few +cirrocumulus clouds were coming up from the east when we started, +but we left them behind, and nothing was visible during the night +but a thin hazy veil. The gale continued throughout the 26th, +becoming warmer as the day advanced. In the afternoon it blew +furiously, raising a good deal of dust. The temperature of air at +four P.M. was 84 degrees in the shade. Wind trees all day. + +. . . + +This last entry contains an unpleasant record of poor +Gray's delinquency. He appears to have been hitherto rather a +favourite with my son. + +King, on his examination before the Royal Commission, finding that +Mr. Burke was censured for chastising Gray, at first denied it +strongly. My son only relates in his diary what Mr. Burke had told +him; "I have given Gray a good thrashing, and well he deserved it." +King blamed my son for mentioning this, but admitted that Mr. Burke +gave Gray several slaps on the head; afterwards, seeing that Mr. +Burke was found fault with for not keeping a journal, King was made +to appear to say that Mr. Wills's journal was written in +conjunction with and under the supervision of Mr. Burke; and thus +accounted for the absence of one by Mr. Burke. I was present at +King's examination, and can bear witness that he said nothing of +the kind. His answers, as given in the Royal Commission Report, +were framed to suit the questions of the interrogator, which +appeared to astonish King, and he made no reply. King's statements, +as far as he understood what he was asked, I believe to have been +generally very truthful, and honestly given. + +After March 25th, an interval of three days occurs, in which +nothing is noted. Gray's illness, attending to the maps, with extra +labour, may account for this omission. + +. . . + +March 29.--Camels' last feast; fine green feed at this camp: +plenty of vines and young polygonums on the small billibongs. + +March 30.--Boocha's rest.--Poor Boocha was killed; employed all day +in cutting up and jerking him: the day turned out as favourable for +us as we could have wished, and a considerable portion of the meat +was completely jerked before sunset. + +March 31.--Mia Mia Camp.--Plenty of good dry feed; various shrubs; +salt bushes, including cotton bush and some coarse kangaroo grass; +water in the hollows on the stony pavement. The neighbouring +country chiefly composed of stony rises and sand ridges. + +April 5--Oil Camp.--Earthy and clayey plains, generally sound and +tolerably grassed, but in other places bare salt bush, and +withered. + +April 6 and 7.--Earthy flats, cut into innumerable water courses, +succeeded by fine open plains, generally very bare, but having in +some places patches of fine salt bush. The dead stalks of portulac +and mallows show that those plants are very plentiful in some +seasons. Towards noon came upon earthy plains and numerous +billibongs. The next day the water and feed much dried up, and +nearly all the water has a slightly brackish taste of a peculiar +kind, somewhat resembling in flavour potassio-tartrate of soda +(cream of tartar). + +On the 8th, poor Gray, suffering under the bad odour of his +peculations, was thought to be pretending illness, because he could +not walk, and my son, when he was himself ill, much regretted their +suspicions on this point; but it appears from King's evidence, that +Gray's excuse for using the provisions surreptitiously, that he was +attacked by dysentery, was without foundation. + +Monday, April 8.--Camp 50R.--Camped a short distance above Camp 75. +The creek here contains more water, and there is a considerable +quantity of green grass in its bed, but it is much dried up since +we passed before. Halted fifteen minutes to send back for Gray, who +pretended that he could not walk. Some good showers must have +fallen lately, as we have passed surface water on the plains every +day. In the latter portion of to-day's journey, the young grass and +portulac are springing freshly in the flats, and on the sides of +the sand ridges. + +Tuesday, April 9.--Camp 51R.--Camped on the bank of the creek, +where there is a regular field of salt bush, as well as some grass +in its bed, very acceptable to the horse, who has not had a proper +feed for the last week until last night, and is, consequently, +nearly knocked up. + +Wednesday, April 10.--Camp 52R.--Remained at Camp 52 R all day, to +cut up and jerk the meat of the horse Billy, who was so reduced and +knocked up for want of food that there appeared little chance of +his reaching the other side of the desert; and as we were running +short of food of every description ourselves, we thought it best to +secure his flesh at once. We found it healthy and tender, but +without the slightest trace of fat in any portion of the body. + +. . . + +In the journal to the Fifteenth, there is nothing worthy of note; +there were watercourses daily, the character of the country the +same; the plants chiefly chrysanthemums and salt bush. On the +latter day it rained heavily, commenced at five in the morning, and +continued pretty steadily throughout the day. The camel, Linda, got +knocked up owing to the wet, and having to cross numerous sand +ridges; and at four o'clock they had to halt at a clay-pan among +the sandhills. + +On Wednesday, the 17th, my son notes the death of poor Gray: "He +had not spoken a word distinctly since his first attack, which was +just about as we were going to start." Here King mentions that they +remained one day to bury Gray. They were so weak, he said, that it +was with difficulty they could dig a grave sufficiently deep to +inter him in. This is not in the journal, but in King's narrative. + +. . . + +On the 19th, camped again without water, on the sandy bed of +the creek, having been followed by a lot of natives who were +desirous of our company; but as we preferred camping alone, we were +compelled to move on until rather late, in order to get away from +them. The night was very cold. A strong breeze was blowing from the +south, which made the fire so irregular that, as on the two +previous nights, it was impossible to keep up a fair temperature. +Our general course throughout the day had been south-south-east. + +. . . + +On Sunday, April 21, the survivors, Mr. Burke, my son, King, and two +camels, reached Cooper's Creek at the exact place where the depot +party had been left under Brahe. THERE WAS NO ONE THERE! During the +last few days every exertion had been made, every nerve strained to +reach the goal of their arduous labours--the spot where they +expected to find rest, clothing, and provisions in abundance. King +describes in vivid language the exertions of that last ride of +thirty miles; and Burke's delight when he thought he saw the depot +camp; "There they are!" he exclaimed; "I see them!" The wish was +"father to the thought." Lost and bewildered in amazement, he +appeared like one stupefied when the appalling truth burst on him. +King has often described to me the scene. "Mr. Wills looked about +him in all directions. Presently he said, 'King, they are gone;' +pointing a short way off to a spot, 'there are the things they have +left.' Then he and I set to work to dig them up, which we did in a +short time. Mr. Burke at first was quite overwhelmed, and flung +himself on the ground." But soon recovering, they all three set to +work to cook some victuals. When thus refreshed, my son made the +following entry in his journal: + +Sunday, April 21.--Arrived at the depot this evening, just in time +to find it deserted. A note left in the plant by Brahe communicates +the pleasing information that they have started today for the +Darling; their camels and horses all well and in good condition. We +and our camels being just done up, and scarcely able to reach the +depot, have very little chance of overtaking them. Brahe has +fortunately left us ample provisions to take us to the bounds of +civilization namely:--Flour, 50 pounds; rice, 20 pounds; oatmeal, +60 pounds; sugar, 60 pounds; and dried meat, 15 pounds. These +provisions, together with a few horse-shoes and nails, and some +odds and ends, constitute all the articles left, and place us in a +very awkward position in respect to clothing. Our disappointment at +finding the depot deserted may easily be imagined;--returning in an +exhausted state, after four months of the severest travelling and +privation, our legs almost paralyzed, so that each of us found it a +most trying task only to walk a few yards. Such a leg-bound feeling +I never before experienced, and hope I never shall again. The +exertion required to get up a slight piece of rising ground, even +without any load, induces an indescribable sensation of pain and +helplessness, and the general lassitude makes one unfit for +anything. Poor Gray must have suffered very much many times when we +thought him shamming. It is most fortunate for us that these +symptoms, which so early affected him, did not come on us until we +were reduced to an exclusively animal diet of such an inferior +description as that offered by the flesh of a worn-out and +exhausted horse. We were not long in getting out the grub that +Brahe had left, and we made a good supper off some oatmeal porridge +and sugar. This, together with the excitement of finding ourselves +in such a peculiar and most unexpected position, had a wonderful +effect in removing the stiffness from our legs. Whether it is +possible that the vegetables can have so affected us, I know not; +but both Mr. Burke and I remarked a most decided relief and a +strength in the legs greater than we had had for several days. I am +inclined to think that but for the abundance of portulac that we +obtained on the journey, we should scarcely have returned to +Cooper's Creek at all. + +. . . + +I asked King how my son behaved. His answer was, that he never +once showed the slightest anger or loss of self-command. From under +a tree on which had been marked, "DIG, 21st April, 1861," a box was +extracted containing the provisions, and a bottle with the +following note:-- + +Depot, Cooper's Creek, April 21, 1861. + +The depot party of the V.E.E. leaves this camp to-day to return +to the Darling. I intend to go south-east from Camp 60 to get into +our old track near Bulloo. Two of my companions and myself are +quite well; the third, Patten, has been unable to walk for the last +eighteen days, as his leg has been severely hurt when thrown by one +of the horses. No one has been up here from the Darling. We have +six camels and twelve horses in good working condition. + +WILLIAM BRAHE. + +. . . + +Brahe has been blamed for not having left a true statement of +his condition, and that of those with him; but it was truth when he +wrote it. He believed Patten's to have been a sprain. It was +afterwards that he contradicted himself, in his journal WRITTEN IN +MELBOURNE, and in his evidence before the Royal Commission. Brahe +had no journal when he came down the first time with a message from +Wright, and was requested, or ordered, by the committee to produce +one, which he subsequently did. In this journal, Brahe enters, on +the 15th April: + +Patten is getting worse. I and McDonough begin to feel ALARMING +SYMPTOMS of the same disease (namely, a sprain). + +April 18.--There is no probability of Mr. Burke returning this way. +Patten is in a deplorable state, and desirous of returning to the +Darling to obtain medical assistance; and our provisions will soon +be reduced to a quantity insufficient to take us back to the +Darling if the trip should turn out difficult and tedious. Being +also sure that I and McDonough would not much longer escape scurvy, +I, after most seriously considering all circumstances, made up my +mind to start for the Darling on Sunday next, the 21st. + +. . . + +That day he abandoned the depot at ten A.M. leaving 50 pounds +of flour, taking with him 150 pounds; leaving 50 pounds of oatmeal, +taking ABOUT 70 pounds; leaving 50 pounds of sugar, taking 75 +pounds; leaving rice 30 pounds, taking one bag. He left neither tea +nor biscuits, and took all the clothes, being the property of Mr. +Wills. The latter, he said before the Royal Commissioners, were +only shirts, omitting the word flannel, and added that they were +badly off themselves. He was asked:-- + +Question 323: Had you any clothes of any description at +Cooper's Creek that might have been left?--Yes, I had a parcel of +clothes that were left with me by Mr. Wills; these were all that I +know of, and we ourselves were very badly off. + +Question 1729. By Dr. Wills (through the chairman)--I wish to know +whether a portmanteau was left with you, belonging to Mr. Wills, my +son? Yes, a bag, a calico bag containing clothes. + +1730.--You were aware it was his own property?--I was. + +1731.--What made you take those clothes back to Menindie, and not +leave them in the cache?--Mr. Wills was better supplied than any +other member of the party, and I certainly did not think he would +be in want of clothes. + +. . . + +With a somewhat unaccountable disposition to sympathize with Brahe, +on the part of the Committee and the Royal Commission, the latter +summed up their impression of his conduct thus: + +The conduct of Mr. Brahe in retiring from his position at the depot +before he was rejoined by his commander, or relieved from the +Darling, may be deserving of considerable censure; but we are of +opinion that a responsibility far beyond his expectations devolved +upon him; and it must be borne in mind that, with the assurance of +his leader, and his own conviction that he might each day expect to +be relieved by Mr. Wright, he still held his post for four months +and five days; and that only when pressed by the appeals of a +comrade sickening even to death, as was subsequently proved, his +powers of endurance gave way, and he retired from the position +which could alone afford succour to the weary explorers should they +return by that route. His decision was most unfortunate; but we +believe he acted from a conscientious desire to discharge his duty, +and we are confident that the painful reflection that twenty-four +hours' further perseverance would have made him the rescuer of the +explorers, and gained for himself the praise and approbation of +all, must be of itself an agonizing thought, without the addition +of censure he might feel himself undeserving of. + +CHAPTER 11. + +Proceedings in Melbourne. +Meeting of the Exploration Committee. +Tardy Resolutions. +Departure of Mr. Howitt. +Patriotic Effort of Mr. Orkney. +South Australian Expedition under Mr. McKinlay. +News of White Men and Camels having been seen by Natives + in the Interior. +Certain Intelligence of the Fate of the Explorers reaches Melbourne. + +IN March, 1861, I began, in the absence of all intelligence, to +feel some apprehension for my son's safety, and the result of the +expedition. On the 8th, Professor Neumayer, in reply to a letter +from me, said: "You have asked me about the Exploring Expedition, +and it is really a difficult matter to give a definite answer to +the question. I think that by this time the party must have reached +the Gulf of Carpentaria, supposing them to have proceeded in that +direction. In fact, I think they may have recrossed already a great +part of the desert country, if everything went on smoothly after +leaving Cooper's Creek. I have a thorough confidence in Mr. Wills's +character and energy, and I am sure they will never fail. I cannot +help regretting that the Committee should not have understood the +force of my arguments, when I advised them to send the expedition +towards the north-west. This would very likely have forwarded the +task considerably. My feeling is not very strong as to the results +we may expect from the present attempt. Indeed, as far as science +and practical advantages are concerned, I look upon the whole as a +mistake. Mr. Wills is entirely alone; he has no one to assist him +in his zeal, and take a part of his onerous duties from him. Had he +been put in a position to make valuable magnetic observations, he +would have earned the thanks of the scientific world. But, under +existing circumstances, he can do nothing at all for the +advancement of this particular branch. However, I hope future +expeditions will afford him an opportunity to fill up that +deficiency, if he should now be successful. The affair with +Landells was nothing more nor less than what I expected and was +quite prepared to hear. The man was not more qualified for the task +he undertook than he would have been for any scientific position in +the expedition. I am confident Mr. Wills is all right, and that Mr. +Burke and he will agree well together." + +All this was complimentary and gratifying to a father's feelings. +Still, as time passed on, forebodings came upon me that this great +expedition, starting with so much display from Melbourne, with a +steady, declared, and scientific object, would dwindle down into a +flying light corps, making a sudden dash across the continent and +back again with no permanent results. Discharges and resignations +had taken place, and no efforts were made by the committee to fill +up the vacancies. No assistant surveyor had been sent to my son, no +successor appointed to Dr. Beckler. The last-named gentleman +brought back many of the scientific instruments intrusted to his +charge, alleging that if he had not done so, Mr. Burke, who was +unscientific and impatient of the time lost in making and +registering observations, threatened to throw them into the next +creek. The supineness of the committee was justly, not too severely +commented on in the Report of the Royal Commission: "The +Exploration Committee, in overlooking the importance of the +contents of Mr. Burke's despatch from Torowoto, and in not urging +Mr. Wright's departure from the Darling, committed errors of a +serious nature. A means of knowledge of the delay of the party at +Menindie was in possession of the committee, not indeed by direct +communication to that effect, but through the receipt of letters +from Drs. Becker and Beckler, at various dates up to the end of +November;--without, however, awakening the committee to a sense of +the vital importance of Mr. Burke's request in that despatch that +he should 'be soon followed up;'--or to a consideration of the +disastrous consequences which would be likely to result, and did +unfortunately result, from the fatal inactivity and idling of Mr. +Wright and his party on the Darling." + +During the month of March, the Argus newspaper called attention to +the matter, and a letter, signed Lockhart Moreton, expressed itself +thus "What has become of the expedition? Surely the committee are +not alive to the necessity of sending some one up? Burke has by +this time crossed the continent, or is lost. What has become of +Wright? What is he doing?" + +Then came a letter from Menindie, expressing strong opinions on the +state of affairs, but flattering to my son. It was evident to me +that these gentlemen knew or thought more than they felt disposed +to state directly in words. I have already mentioned that Mr. +Burke, while within the districts where newspapers could reach him, +had been harassed, from the time of his appointment, by remarks in +the public prints, evidently proceeding from parties and their +friends who thought the honour of leading this grand procession +more properly belonged to themselves. Being a gentleman of +sensitive feelings, these observations touched him to the quick. +When he was no longer within reach, they still continued, but he +found defenders in the all-powerful Argus. I am sorry to say, for +the sake of human nature, that there were some who went so far as +to wish no successful result to his enterprise. + +Believing and trusting that these remarks of Mr. Moreton and +others, would stir up the committee to take some steps to ascertain +if Mr. Wright was moving in his duty, I contented myself with +writing to the Magnetic Observatory, to learn from Professor +Neumayer what was going on. He being absent on scientific tours, I +received answers from his locum tenens, to the effect that within a +month certain information was expected. The committee I did not +trouble, as their Honorary Secretary had deigned no reply to +letters I had previously sent. + +In the month of June, unable to bear longer suspense, with a small +pack on my shoulders and a stick in my hand, I walked from +Ballaarat to Melbourne, a distance of seventy-five miles, stopping +for a couple of nights on the way at the house of a kind and +hospitable friend, Dugald McPherson, Esquire, J.P., at Bungel-Tap. +This gentleman has built a substantial mansion there, in the +Elizabethan style, likely, from its solidity, to last for +centuries. I arrived at Melbourne on Saturday, the 16th of June. On +Monday, the 18th, I called on the Honourable David Wilkie, honorary +treasurer to the committee. I found him issuing circulars for a +meeting to consider what was to be done. My heart sank within me +when I found that no measures whatever had yet been taken. I called +on those I knew amongst the committee to entreat their attendance. +I hastened to Professor Neumayer, with reference to Mr. Lockhart's +letter, to ask if it had been arranged with Mr. Burke that a vessel +should be despatched round the coast to the Gulf to meet him there. +His answer was that a conversation on that point had taken place +between Mr. Burke, my son, and himself, but that Mr. Burke had +enjoined him (the professor) not to move in it, for that, if so +disposed, he would himself apply to the committee by letter. + +A meeting took place on the evening of the 18th. The opinions were +as numerous as the members in attendance. Quot homines tot +sententiae. One talked of financial affairs, another of science, a +third of geography, a fourth of astronomy, and so on. A chapter in +the Circumlocution Office painfully unfolded itself. Mr. Ligar +rather rudely asked me what I was in such alarm about; observed +that "there was plenty of time; no news was good news; and I had +better go home and mind my own business." I felt hurt, naturally +enough, some of my readers may suppose, and replied that had I not +been convinced something was doing, I should scarcely have remained +quiet at Ballaarat for three months. A gentleman, with whom I had +no previous acquaintance, seeing my anxiety, and feeling that the +emergency called for immediate action, appealed to them warmly, and +the result was a decision, nemine contradicente, that it was time +to move, if active and trustworthy agents could be found. I offered +my services for one, but the meeting adjourned without coming to +any decision, and was followed by other indefinite meetings and +adjournments de die in diem. + +On the following day, Dr. Macadam, Honorary Secretary, attended +(the press of the morning had incited movement) and announced the +welcome intelligence that Mr. A. Howitt was in Melbourne; that he +had seen him; that he was ready to go on the shortest notice. So +far all was good. But now I saw the full misery and imbecility of +leaving a large body to decide what should have been delegated to a +quorum of three at the most. The meetings took place regularly, but +the same members seldom attended twice. New illusions and conceits +suggested themselves as often as different committee-men found it +convenient to deliver their opinions and vouchsafe their presence. +Let me here specially except Ferdinand Mueller, M.D. and F.R.S., of +London, who though a foreigner, a Dane by birth, I believe, has won +by his talents that honourable distinction. His energy in all he +undertakes is untiring and unsurpassable. On this occasion he was +ever active and unremitting, while his sympathy and kindness to +myself have never varied from the first day of our acquaintance. +The Honourable David Wilkie, at whose private house we met nightly, +deserves the highest credit for expediting the business, which +ended in the despatch of the party under Mr. Howitt. Mr. Heales +also, then Chief Secretary for the Colony, promised assistance in +money, and the use of the Victoria steamer, under Captain Norman, +to be sent round to the Gulf of Carpentaria as soon as she could be +got ready. + +The Melbourne Argus, of June 19th, contained the following leading +article:-- + +The public will be glad to learn that the Exploration Committee +of the Royal Society have at length resolved to set about partly +doing what in April last we urged upon them. A small party is to be +despatched to Cooper's Creek with means to supply necessaries to +the Exploring Expedition, and to make all possible efforts to +ascertain the whereabouts of Mr. Burke. It is well this should be +done, and that quickly, for we some eight months since learned that +Mr. Burke had provisions calculated to last his party for five +months only. But this is not all that should be done. When +referring to this subject two months ago, basing our calculations +on the knowledge we then had--and it has since received no +increase--we reckoned that Mr. Burke, who left Menindie on the 19th +of October last, would reach Cooper's Creek by the beginning of +November, and that if he determined upon making for the Gulf of +Carpentaria, he might be expected to reach the north coast by about +the middle of March last. If his provisions enabled him to do this, +it is unlikely they would suffice him for a return journey +southwards, or an expedition westward. We cannot think, then, that +a party sent to Cooper's Creek should be regarded as sufficient. +Why should not the Victoria be utilized? Were she sent round the +west coast to the point Mr. Burke might be expected to strike--if, +instead of bearing north, after reaching the centre, he has turned +westward, as we anticipated he might do--he would possibly be heard +of there. If not, the Victoria would be still so far on her way to +the Gulf of Carpentaria--the only other goal he is likely to aim at +reaching. Two expeditions, therefore, should at once be +despatched--the party to Cooper's Creek, and the colonial steamer +round the coast. Let it not be said to our disgrace that anything +has been neglected which money or energy could have done to insure +the safety of the men who have devoted themselves to a work in +which the whole civilized world is interested, and of which, if now +carried on with success, this colony will reap all the glory. It is +a work which all men must have at heart, whether as lovers of their +fellow-men, of science, or of their country. Let it not be marred +by aught of niggardliness or supineness. The work must be well and +quickly done. The progress of Mr. Stuart and of Mr. Burke is now +watched with the warmest interest and sympathy by men of science in +Europe. Mr. Stuart is well and generously cared for by the South +Australian Government and people. What will be said if Victoria +alone, by parsimony or apathy, allowed her Exploring Expedition to +fail or her public servants to suffer unnecessary hardships, or +even death? + +As to the men to whom the inland expedition is to be intrusted, +some conversation took place at the recent meeting of the +Exploration Committee. Dr. Wills, of Ballaarat, father of Mr. +Wills, second in command with Mr. Burke, was present, and offered +to accompany the party. Professor Neumayer suggested a gentleman +named Walsh, from his own office, as suitable for the enterprise; +and Dr. Embling, it is rumoured, supports Mr. Landells as a fit +person for the post of leader. We have nothing to say for or +against the two former suggestions, but this last demands notice. +We consider that Mr. Landells has already shown himself singularly +unfitted to fill a post of this kind. + +. . . + +Mr. Howitt's offer did away with the necessity for my pressing +to go. Although I felt tolerably confident in my own physical +powers, I should have much regretted had they failed on experiment, +and thereby retarded rather than aided the object in view. Mr. +Walsh went, but was of no service, as he lost the sight of one eye +in the first observation he attempted to make; but Mr. Howitt +proved equal to the emergency and did the work. [Footnote: A +strange incident connected with Mr. Walsh's misfortune was reported +abroad, but I do not vouch for its truth. When under surgical +treatment for his impaired vision, it was said that the operators +in consultation decided on an experiment to test the powers of the +retina to receive light, and in so doing blinded the other eye. Mr. +Walsh went to England, having had a sum granted to him by the +Victoria government. Whether he has recovered his sight I know not.] + +Mr. Howitt being equipped and despatched, I returned to Ballaarat, +somewhat relieved, after my fortnight's anxious labours with the +committee; but on the evening of Friday, the 5th of July, I was +startled by reading the following statement in the Melbourne Weekly +Age:-- + +THE NEWS FROM THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION. + +The unexpected news of Mr. Burke's expedition of discovery, which we +publish this morning, is positively disastrous. The entire company +of explorers has been dissipated out of being, like dewdrops before +the sun. Some are dead, some are on their way back, one has come to +Melbourne, and another has made his way to Adelaide, whilst only +four of the whole party have gone forward from the depot at +Cooper's Creek upon the main journey of the expedition to explore +the remote interior. The four consist of the two chief officers and +two men; namely, Mr. Burke, the leader, and Mr. Wills, the surveyor +and second in command of the party, together with the men King and +Gray. This devoted little band left Cooper's Creek for the far +interior on the 16th of December last, more than six months ago, +taking with them six camels and one horse, and only twelve weeks' +provisions. From Mr. Burke's despatch we learn that he meant to +proceed in the first place to Eyre's Creek; and from that place he +would make an effort to explore the country northward in the +direction of the Gulf of Carpentaria. He states also that he meant +to return to Cooper's Creek within three months at the farthest; +that is, about the middle of March. Before starting on this route +he had already tried a passage northward between Gregory's and +Stuart's tracks; but he found this passage impracticable, from want +of water. He does not state anything that would enable us to form +an opinion of what his intentions might be after leaving Eyre's +Creek, beyond his saying that he meant to push northwards towards +the Gulf. Neither does it appear that he left any instructions or +directions upon the matter with Mr. Brahe. He merely informed the +latter that he meant to run no risks, and that he would be back +within a brief stated period, and that Mr. Brahe was not to wait +for him at the depot beyond three months. Mr. Brahe's statement, in +fact, throws very little light upon the probabilities of Mr. +Burke's future course, after leaving the depot at Cooper's Creek. +He accompanied him one day's journey, some twenty miles or so, on +his way towards the north. But he seems to know very little of what +Mr. Burke's ultimate intentions were. Perhaps, indeed, Mr. Burke +himself had no very definite scheme sketched out in his own mind, +as to any settled purpose for the future, beyond his trying to make +the best of his way in the direction of the Gulf of Carpentaria. He +probably never entertained the idea of its being necessary to plan +out various different alternatives to adopt, in case of the failure +of any one particular course of proceeding. The facility and +despatch with which he had got over the ground to Cooper's Creek +may have produced too confident a state of mind as to the future. +And his having learned that Stuart had, with only two or three +companions, advanced within a couple of days' journey of the +northern coast, would tend greatly to increase that too confident +tone of mind. Both circumstances were likely to produce a feeling, +especially in a sanguine temperament like Burke's, that there was +no need of his arranging beforehand, and leaving behind him, with +Mr. Brahe, plans of intended procedure on his part, the knowledge +of which would subsequently give a clue to his fate, in case of his +continued absence. He seems not to have formed any anticipation of +a vessel being sent round to meet him on the north coast, according +to Mr. Brahe's account. + +What then did he propose to do, and what is likely to have become +of him? The fear forces itself upon us, that, acting under the +influence of excessive confidence, arising from the causes already +referred to, Mr. Burke and his little band of three companions went +forth towards the north in a state of mind unprepared to meet +insurmountable obstacles; that difficulties, arising chiefly from +want of water, sprung up in his path, and assumed greater magnitude +than the previous experience of the expedition could have led them +to anticipate; and that if the little party has not succumbed to +these difficulties before now, they are to be sought for either on +the northern coast, by a vessel to be sent there for that purpose, +or in the country towards the Gulf of Carpentaria, by an overland +party despatched in that direction. Indeed, both attempts should be +made simultaneously, and with the least possible delay. The present +period of the year is most propitious for the inland journey, both +on account of the abundance of water and the moderate temperature +incident to the winter season. There should not be a moment lost, +then, in forwarding this portion of the search; and the coasting +portion of it should be commenced as soon after as possible. + +The sufferings to which the unhappy men are exposed will be +understood from Mr. Wright's report of what befell the party under +his charge. They were prostrated by scurvy, as well as being +additionally enfeebled by the irregular supply of water. And at +length four of their number, worn out by their sufferings, perished +by a wretched, lingering death in the wilderness. There is +something deeply melancholy in such a fact. Poor Becker! He had +scarcely the physique for encountering the toils of such an +expedition. However, regrets over the past are vain. What is of +importance now is to save the remainder of the party, if possible. +And perhaps the best way of opening up the search inland would be +for the committee to avail themselves of Mr. Howitt's offer to +proceed at once, with an enlarged party, including Mr. Brahe, to +Cooper's Creek, and thence to Eyre's Creek, and northwards towards +the coast, should they not previously have encountered Mr. Burke +and his companions on their return. + +It is somewhat disheartening to find that when Mr. Wright returned +for the last time to the Cooper's Creek depot, namely, so recently +as the first week in May--that is, five months after Burke set out +on his final excursion--he did not think it necessary to make any +examination of the country, as far at least as Eyre's Creek. It +might naturally be supposed that on finding, by examining the +concealed stores, that Mr. Burke had not revisited the depot, Mr. +Wright would endeavour to make some search for him, to the extent +of a few days' journey at all events. Before turning their back +finally upon the solitude where their companions were wandering, +one last search might have well been made. But perhaps the disabled +condition of the men, horses, and camels may be taken to account +for this seeming neglect. It may not be too late even now, however, +to make amends for this strange oversight, by hastening on Mr. +Howitt's party. The whole expedition appears to have been one +prolonged blunder throughout; and it is to be hoped that the +rescuing party may not be mismanaged and retarded in the same way +as the unfortunate original expedition was. The savans have made a +sad mess of the whole affair; let them, if possible, retrieve +themselves in this its last sad phase. + +. . . + +I returned immediately to Melbourne, and found the committee +in earnest at last, the Government aiding them in every possible +way. Mr. Heales offered all the assistance he could give. The +Victoria, which I thought had been made ready, was now put under +immediate repair. Proceedings were reported in the Herald as +follows:-- + +The adjourned meeting of the Exploration Committee was +held yesterday afternoon, in the Hall of the Royal Society, Victoria +Street. Dr. Mueller occupied the chair, in the unavoidable absence +of Sir William Stawell. + +The minutes of the previous meeting were read and confirmed. + +The Chairman said the honorary treasurer would lay before the +committee the result of the interview the deputation had the honour +to hold with the Chief Secretary that day. Unfortunately they had +not had the advantage of Dr. Macadam's assistance, but he was glad +that gentleman was now present, and that they had one member of the +Government. + +The Honourable Dr. Wilkie, M.L.C., said that Dr. Mueller, himself, +and Dr. Wills, father of Mr. Wills, a member of the expedition, +waited on the Chief Secretary and communicated to him the +resolution passed by the Exploration Committee, strongly +recommending the Government to give the Victoria steamer for the +purpose of proceeding to the Gulf of Carpentaria in aid of Mr. +Burke's party. He might state that the deputation entered fully +into the whole question, and that the Chief Secretary very +cordially promised that the Victoria should be given, and that at +the same time he (the Chief Secretary) said it was the desire of +the Government to promote the wishes of the Exploration Committee, +as far as possible, in rendering assistance to Mr. Burke. Further +discussion took place with reference to other matters, which would +immediately come under the consideration of the committee;--as to +the sending a land party from Rockhampton; and the Government had +promised every possible assistance that they could render. + +. . . + +Mr. Howitt, who returned the next day, was soon despatched +again with increased means, to follow up his work in aid. A +communication was immediately opened with the Queensland Government +on the north-east to get up an expedition under some competent +person, but at the charge of Victoria; and Mr. Walker, who had +already acquired note as a leader of a party of native police, was +proposed for the command. Captain Norman with the Victoria steamer +was to start as soon as possible, coasting round to the Gulf, +taking with him a small tender; whilst Walker, or whoever might be +appointed in Queensland, should proceed north, overland. Nothing +further could be done in Melbourne by the committee or Government; +but I have now to narrate a noble act on the part of a private +individual. + +James Orkney, Esquire, M.L.A. for West Melbourne, had a small +steamer of sixteen tons, built by himself from a model of the Great +Eastern, which was quite ready for sea; and having also a captain +willing to embark in her, he undertook to send her round to the +Gulf of Carpentaria at his own charge. The adventurous gentleman +who offered his services was no less a personage than Wyse, the +skipper of Lord Dufferin's yacht on his celebrated voyage to the +North Seas, which his lordship has commemorated in his delightful +little book entitled, Letters from High Latitudes. The Sir Charles +Hotham, for so the little craft was called, was intended to precede +Captain Norman, as the Victoria would take at least a fortnight in +equipping. She was expected, from her light draught of water, to +render much aid in exploring the rivers and steaming against +currents. She left on the 6th of July, towed out of Hudson's Bay by +the Sydney steamer. The weather became stormy, and the steamer was +compelled to cut her adrift during the night. Left to herself and +her gallant captain, with a crew of two men only, she made her way +to Sydney. During this time the coast was visited by severe gales, +and much anxiety was felt for the Sir Charles Hotham. The agents of +the Sydney steamer regretted that they had not heard of the +proposed arrangement a few hours earlier, as they would readily +have taken her on deck. But they did all that was in their power. + +Mr. Orkney soon received the pleasing intelligence that his little +craft was safe in Sydney Harbour, but requiring some repairs. These +were completed with as much speed as possible, Mr. Orkney bearing +every expense, including that of the telegrams, which was +considerable. Again the miniature steamer proceeded from Sydney, +northward; but after some progress, Wyse, steering her into shallow +water, near shore, to anchor for the night, ran her on the peak of +the anchor, which made a hole in her bottom, and quite +incapacitated her from further service. Thus Mr. Orkney lost the +hope he entertained and the satisfaction he would have enjoyed, of +being serviceable to the lost explorers; but the credit due to him +is far from being diminished by his want of success, and the +patriotic effort deserves to be recorded to his eternal honour. +Through this incident I made his acquaintance, and ever since we +have been, and I hope shall continue to be, sincere friends. + +My anxiety for my son's safety interfered with my attention to +ordinary professional avocations. I accordingly left Ballaarat for +a time, and continued in Melbourne, casting about to see how I +could render myself useful in the great object of my thoughts. At +first I inclined to go round to the Gulf with Captain Norman, and +obtained permission to do so, when an announcement reached +Melbourne by telegram to the effect that the South Australian +Government had decided on sending an Expedition from that quarter, +and asking for the loan of some camels, with the use of the two +that had strayed in that direction, and had been brought down to +Adelaide from Dr. Brown's station. These turned out to be two of +the three that my son had lost when out on an excursion from +Cooper's Creek, the circumstances of which have been already +mentioned. Mr. McKinlay was at that time in Melbourne. He +immediately started by the Havelock steamer to offer his services +as leader of the party. I sent a letter to Sir Richard McDonnel, +the Governor, by him, proposing to accompany them as surgeon, and +to assist as guide. I received a reply by telegram asking if I +would put myself under Mr. McKinlay, and also requesting from the +Government some additional camels. I obtained permission from Mr. +Heales to have those that might be useful, and in three days +started in the Oscar (since lost) with the camels. + +On arriving in Adelaide, I found that the South Australian +Expedition was instructed to proceed, in the first instance, to +Cooper's Creek, whither Mr. Howitt had already gone. This I thought +a mistaken direction, as Howitt would be there before us, and the +north and east search being amply provided for, it appeared +profitless. The Government also proposed a surveying tour on their +own account, in conjunction with the search for the missing +explorers. These plans not exactly falling in with my view of the +business, I gave up my intention of forming one of the party. Mr. +McKinlay was a fine fellow, well adapted to the work; his +companions strong and lively, and of a proper age, neither too old +nor too young. Having seen him off, I determined to remain for a +time in Adelaide, a delightful place, where I found some of the +kindest and most agreeable acquaintances I have ever had the good +fortune to meet with. + +The South Australian Register, of the 24th of August, 1861, gave +the following summary of the measures in progress:-- + +Our readers will perhaps be surprised to learn that a new +exploring expedition has just been sent to the northern interior. To +explore is clearly one of the missions of South Australia; but this +time the object is less one of curiosity than humanity. With Mr. +Stuart and his party still engaged in the work of opening a route +to the north-west coast, no one would have thought it desirable, +under ordinary circumstances, to undertake fresh explorations. But +the whole colony has been moved by the dreadful doubt which hangs +over the fate of Mr. Burke, the Victorian explorer, who, with three +men, left Cooper's Creek at the beginning of the year; having only +a few months' provisions with him. They have not been heard of +since, and there is not much hope entertained of their safety. But +all that can be done to assist them or to ascertain their fate is +being done. The three adjacent provinces have sent in search of the +lost explorers, and this colony has also despatched its expedition +for the same good purpose. Mr. McKinlay, an experienced bushman, +has left Adelaide upon this chivalric task, taking with him six +men, twenty-four horses, and four camels. His first duty is to seek +for Burke, and in the next place to obtain a knowledge of +unexplored country in the north. + +. . . + +After general instructions, Mr. McKinlay's duties were +more specifically defined:-- + +You will in all matters keep the following objects in full view:-- + +Firstly. The relief of the expedition under the command of Mr. +Burke, or the acquiring a knowledge of its fate. This is the great +object of the expedition under your command. + +When you may have accomplished the foregoing, or may have deemed it +necessary to abandon the search for Mr. Burke, then, + +Secondly. The acquiring a knowledge of the country between Eyre's +Creek and Central Mount Stuart. + +Thirdly. The acquiring a knowledge of the western shores of Lake +Eyre. A separate letter of instructions is given to you and the +particular matters to which you will direct your attention in this +locality. + +. . . + +I had been in Adelaide nearly a month when I was startled by +the following note, from Major Egerton Warburton:-- + +September 19th. + +MY DEAR SIR, + +Would you kindly call in at my office? I have important news +which must interest you. + +Yours very truly, + +J. EGERTON WARBURTON. + +. . . + +I hastened to him, and asked, almost breathlessly, "What +news--good or bad?" He replied, "Not so bad;" and then gave me the +information which was made known in the House of Assembly that +night, and embodied in the Adelaide Advertiser, the next day, to +the following effect:-- + +On Thursday morning, considerable interest was excited in +Adelaide by a rumour to the effect that intelligence from the +interior had been received of Burke's party. We lost no time in +instituting inquiry, and found that the report was certainly not +unfounded. It was stated that a police trooper in the north had +sent down information, derived through a black, that at a long +distance beyond the settled districts some white men were living, +and that the black had obtained a portion of their hair. The white +men were described as being entirely naked, and as living upon a +raft on a lake, supporting themselves by catching fish: that they +had no firearms nor horses, but some great animals, which, from the +description given by the native, were evidently camels. There +could, therefore, be but little doubt as to this being Burke's +party, or a portion of it; and as soon as it was ascertained that +the rumour had some tangible kind of foundation, public curiosity +for fuller and more authentic details speedily rose very high. On +the assembling of Parliament, the Commissioner of Crown Lands, +desirous of allaying the anxiety of the public, read from his place +the letter brought by the native, of which the following is a copy: +-- + +Wirrilpa, September 12, 1861, + +SIR, + +I have the honour to forward the following particulars gathered +from the blacks, seeming to refer to Mr. Burke and party. A black +fellow called Sambo, who has lately come in from Lake Hope, brought +with him the hair of two white men, which he showed to the cook and +stockman at Tooncatchin. He says it was given to him by other +blacks, who told him that there were white men living much farther +out than where he had been. Frank James, one of Mr. Butler's +stockmen, saw Sambo again on the 6th instant, and tried to get the +hair from him. He had unfortunately given it away to other blacks. +James promised him tobacco for it, and he has promised to get it +again. Sambo says that the white men are naked, have no firearms or +horses, but animals which from his description are evidently +camels; that they sleep on a raft, which they build on the water. +They live on fish which they catch with nets made with grass. Sambo +says that the other blacks had told him that the white men arrived +there this winter. According to Sambo, the people are twenty sleeps +from Tooncatchin, by way of Lake Hope Creek. I do not think that +these sleeps on the average exceed ten miles, so it is probable +that they are on or near Cooper's Creek. Sambo is quite willing to +go out all the way with a party of white men. He also says that the +blacks on Lake Hope Creek are afraid of these white men. I received +the above information from Mr. H. Butler, Frank James, and Cleland, +on my arrival at Blanche on the 8th instant. Knowing that Mr. +McKinlay and party were on their way, I accordingly left Blanche on +the 9th, and I met Mr. McKinlay and party to-day on Bandnoota +Plain, 145 miles south of Blanche, when I put that gentleman in +possession of the above particulars. + +I have etc. + +JAMES HOWE, Police Trooper. + +To George Hamilton, Esquire, J.P., Inspector of Police. + +The Surveyor-General (Mr. Goyder) says that from the general tenor +of the letter he inclines to the opinion that the white men are on +some of the newly-discovered waters between Cooper's Creek and +Eyre's Creek; and if so, this is precisely in the direction that +Mr. McKinlay would, according to his instructions, have taken. But +the most gratifying portion of the whole statement is that which +assures us of Mr. McKinlay being placed in possession of the whole +of the circumstances of the case; and considering the date when the +information was given him, there is little doubt but that Mr. +McKinlay, as the reader's eye rests on these words, is ON THE SPOT +INDICATED by the black; and should this prove to be correct, and +the party be saved, South Australia will have, in the cause of +humanity, reason to rejoice that the Parliament took such prompt +and vigorous measures to send out the relief expedition. The +Commissioner of Crown Lands telegraphed to Melbourne, without +delay, the substance of the trooper's letter; but it is not likely +that any practical use could be made of it there, though it would +revive the hopes of many of the friends of Burke and his party. If +the white men spoken of in the letter are where Mr. Goyder imagines +them to be, it is not very likely that Mr. Howitt's relief party +would find them; so that it may, after all, be the destiny of South +Australia not only to find men to cross the Australian continent, +but to relieve and restore other explorers who have failed in that +hazardous attempt. + +Mr. Burke's party consists of himself as leader, Mr. Wills, +astronomer and surveyor, and who is second in command,--two men, +six camels, and one horse. Dr. Wills, who is now in Adelaide, +having come round from Melbourne with the additional camels, says +that the two camels which a short time since made their way into +this colony overland, and were brought to town from Truro, were two +out of the three that belonged to his son, and that they were +allowed to stray, by a man left in charge of them whilst Mr. Wills +was engaged in some astronomical pursuits. The man left the camels +to make some tea, and, on his return, the animals had disappeared. +Two of them, as already stated, have been recovered, but no tidings +have been received of the third, unless it be the one recently said +to have arrived at Fort Bourke. We hope we shall soon have further +information, not only respecting Burke and his party, but also of +Stuart, the time of whose anticipated return now draws on rapidly. + +***We had scarcely written the above lines when we received a +private telegram, informing us that Mr. Stuart was on his way to +Adelaide. + +This intelligence raised my sinking hopes to a high pitch. I felt +convinced that this was the missing party. The black fellow had +described the animals, which the natives called "gobble gobble," +from the noise they made in their throats. Mr. McKinlay put little +faith in the story; and I was vexed to hear by the next report from +him that he was not hastening to the rescue. But it would then have +been too late. The white men alluded to were, unquestionably, +Burke, my son, and King, with exaggeration as to their being +without clothes, and living on a raft. + +Shortly after this I returned to Melbourne, and in another week the +sad catastrophe became public beyond all further doubt. The +intelligence had reached Melbourne on a Saturday night. I was +staying at that time at the house of my kind friend Mr. Orkney. He +had gone to the opera with Mrs. Orkney and another lady, and came +home about half-past ten. I was surprised at their early return, +and thought something unpleasant must have happened. A servant came +to say that he wished to speak with me privately, and then I +received the terrible communication which had been announced at the +theatre during an interval between the acts. As soon as I had +sufficiently recovered the shock, we proceeded in a car to the +residence of Dr. Wilkie, the treasurer of the Committee. He had +heard a report, but was rather incredulous, as nothing official had +reached the Committee. At this moment, Dr. Macadam, the Honorary +Secretary, came in. He was perfectly bewildered, believed nothing, +and had received no telegram. "But," said I, "when were you at your +own house last?" "At seven o'clock," was the reply. "Good God!" I +exclaimed, "jump into the car." We proceeded to his house, and +there indeed was the telegram, which had been waiting for him some +hours. + +The next morning, Sunday, November the 3rd, Brahe arrived at an +early hour at the Spencer-street Station, having been sent in by +Mr. Howitt with the journals and letters dug up in the cache at +Cooper's Creek. I was anxiously waiting his arrival. Dr. Macadam +was also there, and appeared confused, as if he had been up all +night. He insisted on dragging me on to the Governor's house, four +miles from Melbourne, Heaven only knows with what object. With some +difficulty I obtained from him possession of the bundle of papers, +and deposited them for safety in the hands of Dr. Wilkie. I have +nothing more to say of Dr. Macadam, except that I sincerely trust +it may never be my fortune to come in contact with him again, in +any official business whatever. He is a man of unbounded confidence +in his own powers, ready to undertake many things at the same time; +and would not, I suspect, shrink from including the honorary +governorship of the colony, if the wisdom of superior authority +were to place it at his disposal. + +CHAPTER 12. + +The attempt to reach South Australia and Adelaide by Mount Hopeless. +Mistake of selecting that Route. +Mr. Wills's Journals from the 23rd of April to the 29th of June, 1861. +Adventures with the Natives. +Discovery of Nardoo as a Substitute for Food. +Mr. Burke and King go in search of Natives as a last resource. +Mr. Wills left alone in the Desert. +The Last Entry in his Journal. + +ON the morning of Thursday, the 23rd of April, 1861, Mr. Burke, my +son, and King, being refreshed and strengthened by the provisions +they found at Cooper's Creek, again resumed their journey +homewards. It was an unfortunate resolve of Burke's, to select the +route to the Adelaide district by Mount Hopeless, instead of +returning by the Darling. King says, "Mr. Wills and I were of +opinion that to follow Brahe was the best mode of proceeding; but +Mr. Burke had heard it stated positively at the meeting of the +Royal Society, that there were South Australian settlers within one +hundred miles of Cooper's Creek in the direction he proposed to +take;" and by this very questionable assertion, without evidence, +his mind was biassed. There was, in fact, nothing to recommend the +route by Mount Hopeless, while everything was in favour of that by +the Darling. Blanche Water, the nearest police-station on the +Adelaide line, was distant between four and five hundred miles. The +one road they knew nothing of, the other was familiar to them. The +camels, too, would have plucked up spirit on returning after the +others on the old track. It is true that Brahe's false statement of +the condition of his party held out no encouragement that they +might be able to overtake him; but there was a chance that a new +party might even then be coming up, or that the laggard Wright +would be on the advance at last, as proved to be the fact. A +Melbourne paper, commenting on these points, had the following +remarks, which were as just as they were doubly painful, being +delivered after the event:-- + +Wills and King it appears were desirous of following their track out +from Menindie, which would unquestionably have been the wiser +course; but Mr. Burke preferred striking for the South Australian +stations, some of which, he had been informed by the Royal +Committee of Exploration, were only one hundred and fifty miles +from Cooper's Creek. It was a most unfortunate and fatal matter for +Mr. Burke that these Royal people had anything whatever to do with +his movements. + +He made two attempts to strike in the direction in which they had +assured him he would easily reach a settled district, and twice was +he driven back for want of water. It was a fatal mistake on his +part to follow the suggestion of these ready advisers. The +practical impressions of Wills or King were worth a world of +theoretical conjectures and philosophic presumption. But it seems +to have been decreed that Burke should have favoured the former +instead of the latter; the consequences of which were that himself +and poor Wills were to perish miserably. + +. . . + +Much as I approve of and admire my son's steady obedience to +his leader, I cannot but regret and wonder that in this particular +instance he was not more resolute in remonstrance. It bears out +what I said to Mr. Burke on taking leave of him: "If you ask his +advice, take it; but he will never offer it; and should he see you +going to destruction, he will follow you without a murmur." + +The party, before they left Cooper's Creek, buried my son's +journals in the cache, with the subjoined note from Mr. Burke, +which were dug out and brought up by Brahe. + +Depot 2, Cooper's Creek Camp 65. + +The return party from Carpentaria, consisting of myself, Wills, and +King (Gray dead), arrived here last night and found that the depot +party had only started on the same day. We proceed on, to-morrow, +slowly down the creek towards Adelaide by Mount Hopeless, and shall +endeavour to follow Gregory's track; but we are very weak. The two +camels are done up, and we shall not be able to travel faster than +four or five miles a day. Gray died on the road, from exhaustion +and fatigue. We have all suffered much from hunger. The provisions +left here will, I think, restore our strength. We have discovered a +practicable route to Carpentaria, the chief position of which lies +in the 140 degrees of east longitude. There is some good country +between this and the Stony Desert. From thence to the tropics the +land is dry and stony. Between the Carpentaria a considerable +portion is rangy, but well watered and richly grassed. We reached +the shores of Carpentaria on the 11th of February, 1861. Greatly +disappointed at finding the party here gone. + +(Signed) ROBERT O'HARA BURKE, Leader. + +April 22, 1861. + +P.S. The camels cannot travel, and we cannot walk, or we should +follow the other party. We shall move very slowly down the creek. + +. . . + +My son's journal is now written in a more complete and +consecutive form. He had no instruments for observation or mapping, +so that his time and mind were concentrated on the one employment. + +APRIL, 1861.--JOURNAL OF TRIP FROM COOPER'S CREEK TOWARDS ADELAIDE. + +The advance party of the V.E.E., consisting of Burke, Wills, and +King (Gray being dead), having returned from Carpentaria, on the +21st April, 1861, in an exhausted and weak state, and finding that +the depot party left at Cooper's Creek had started for the Darling +with their horses and camels fresh and in good condition, deemed it +useless to attempt to overtake them, having only two camels, both +done up, and being so weak themselves as to be unable to walk more +than four or five miles a day. Finding also that the provisions +left at the depot for them would scarcely take them to Menindie, +they started down Cooper's Creek for Adelaide, via Mount Hopeless, +on the morning of 23rd April, 1861, intending to follow as nearly +as possible, the route taken by Gregory. By so doing they hoped to +be able to recruit themselves and the camels whilst sauntering +slowly down the creek, and to have sufficient provisions left to +take them comfortably, or at least without risk, to some station in +South Australia. + +Their equipment consists of the following articles:--Flour, 50 +pounds; sugar, 60 pounds; rice, 20 pounds; oatmeal, 60 pounds; +jerked meat, 25 pounds; ginger, 2 pounds; salt, 1 pound.--[Then +follow some native words with their meanings.] + +From Depot. + +Tuesday, 23rd April, 1861.--Having collected together all the odds +and ends that seemed likely to be of use to us, in addition to +provisions left in the plant, we started at 9.15 A.M., keeping down +the southern bank of the creek; we only went about five miles, and +camped at 11.30 on a billibong, where the feed was pretty good. We +find the change of diet already making a great improvement in our +spirits and strength. The weather is delightful, days agreeably +warm, but the nights very chilly. The latter is more noticeable +from our deficiency in clothing, the depot party having taken all +the reserve things back with them to the Darling.--To Camp 1. + +From Camp 1. + +Wednesday, 24th April, 1861.--As we were about to start this +morning, some blacks came by, from whom we were fortunate enough to +get about twelve pounds of fish for a few pieces of straps and some +matches, etc. This is a great treat for us, as well as a valuable +addition to our rations. We started at 8.15 P.M., on our way down +the creek, the blacks going in the opposite direction, little +thinking that in a few miles they might be able to get lots of +pieces for nothing, better than those they had obtained from us. +--To Camp 2. + +From Camp 2. + +Thursday, 25th April, 1861.--Awoke at five o'clock after a most +refreshing night's rest--the sky was beautifully clear, and the air +rather chilly--the terrestrial radiation seems to have been +considerable, and a slight dew had fallen. We had scarcely finished +breakfast, when our friends the blacks, from whom we obtained the +fish, made their appearance with a few more, and seemed inclined to +go with us and keep up the supply. We gave them some sugar, with +which they were greatly pleased--they are by far the most +well-behaved blacks we have seen on Cooper's Creek. We did not get +away from the camp until 9.30 A.M., continuing our course down the +most southern branch of the creek which keeps a general south-west +course. We passed across the stony point which abuts on one of the +largest waterholes in the creek, and camped at 12.30 about a mile +below the most dangerous part of the rocky path. At this latter +place we had an accident that might have resulted badly for us: one +of the camels fell while crossing the worst part, but we +fortunately got him out with only a few cuts and bruises. To Camp +3.--The waterhole at this camp is a very fine one, being several +miles long, and on an average about--chains broad. The water-fowl +are numerous, but rather shy, not nearly so much so, however, as +those on the creeks between here and Carpentaria; and I am +convinced that the shyness of the latter, which was also remarked +by Sturt on his trip to Eyre's Creek, arises entirely from the +scarcity of animals, both human and otherwise, and not from any +peculiar mode of catching them that the blacks may have. + +From Camp 3. + +Friday, 26th April, 1861.--Last night was beautifully calm and +comparatively warm, although the sky was very clear. We loaded the +camels by moonlight this morning, and started at a quarter to six: +striking off to the south of the creek, we soon got on a native +path which leaves the creek just below the stony ground and takes a +course nearly west across a piece of open country, bounded on the +south by sand ridges and on the north by the scrub by ground which +flanks the bank of the creek at this part of its course. Leaving +the path on our right at a distance of three miles, we turned up a +small creek, which passes down between some sandhills, and finding +a nice patch of feed for the camels at a waterhole, we halted at 7. +15 for breakfast. We started again at 9.50 A.M., continuing our +westerly course along the path: we crossed to the south of the +watercourse above the water, and proceeded over the most splendid +salt-bush country that one could wish to see, bounded on the left +by sandhills, whilst to the right the peculiar-looking flat-topped +sandstone ranges form an extensive amphitheatre, through the far +side of the arena of which may be traced the dark line of creek +timber. At twelve o'clock we camped in the bed of the creek at +camp--, our last camp on the road down from the Gulf, having taken +four days to do what we then did in one. This comparative rest and +the change in diet have also worked wonders, however; the leg-tied +feeling is now entirely gone, and I believe that in less than a +week we shall be fit to undergo any fatigue whatever. The camels +are improving, and seem capable of doing all that we are likely to +require of them.--To Camp 4. + +From Camp 4. + +Saturday, 27th April, 1861.--First part of night clear, with a +light breeze from south. Temperature at midnight 10 degrees +(Reaumur). Towards morning there were a few cirrocumulus clouds +passing over north-east to south-west, but these disappeared before +daylight. At five A.M. the temperature was 7.5 degrees (Reaumur). +We started at six o'clock, and following the native path, which at +about a mile from our camp takes a southerly direction, we soon +came to the high sandy alluvial deposit which separates the creek +at this point from the stony rises. Here we struck off from the +path, keeping well to the south of the creek, in order that we +might mess in a branch of it that took a southerly direction. At 9. +20 we came in on the creek again where it runs due south, and +halted for breakfast at a fine waterhole with fine fresh feed for +the camels. Here we remained until noon, when we moved on again, +and camped at one o'clock on a general course, having been +throughout the morning south-west eight miles. The weather is most +agreeable and pleasant; nothing could be more favourable for us up +to the present time. The temperature in the shade at 10.30 A.M. was +17.5 degrees (Reaumur), with a light breeze from south and a few +small cirrocumulus clouds towards the north. I greatly feel the +want of more instruments, the only things I have left being my +watch, prism compass, pocket compass, and one thermometer +(Reaumur).--To Camp 5. + +From Camp 5. + +Sunday, 28th April, 1861.--Morning fine and calm, but rather +chilly. Started at 4.45 A.M., following down the bed of a creek in +a westerly direction by moonlight. Our stage was, however, very +short for about a mile--one of the camels (Landa) got bogged by the +side of a waterhole, and although we tried every means in our +power, we found it impossible to get him out. All the ground +beneath the surface was a bottomless quicksand, through which the +beast sank too rapidly for us to get bushes of timber fairly +beneath him; and being of a very sluggish stupid nature he could +never be got to make sufficiently strenuous efforts towards +extricating himself. In the evening, as a last chance, we let the +water in from the creek, so as to buoy him up and at the same time +soften the ground about his legs; but it was of no avail. The brute +lay quietly in it, as if he quite enjoyed his position.--To Camp 6. + +Camp 6. + +Monday, 29th April, 1861.--Finding Landa still in the hole, we made +a few attempts at extricating him, and then shot him, and after +breakfast commenced cutting off what flesh we could get at for +jerking. + +Tuesday, 30th April, 1861.--Remained here to-day for the purpose of +drying the meat, for which process the weather is not very +favourable. [Meteorological note follows.] + +From Camp 6. + +Wednesday, 1st May, 1861.--Started at 8.40, having loaded our only +camel, Rajah, with the most necessary and useful articles, and +packed up a small swag each, of bedding and clothing for our own +shoulders. We kept on the right bank of the creek for about a mile, +and then crossed over at a native camp to the left, where we got on +a path running due west, the creek having turned to the north. +Following the path we crossed an open plain, and then some sand +ridges, whence we saw the creek straight ahead of us running nearly +south again: the path took us to the southernmost point of the bend +in a distance of about two and a-half miles from where we had +crossed the creek, thereby saving us from three to four miles, as +it cannot be less than six miles round by the creek.--To Camp 7. + +From Camp 7. + +Thursday, 2nd May, 1861.--Breakfasted by moonlight and started at +6.30. Following down the left bank of the creek in a westerly +direction, we came at a distance of six miles on a lot of natives +who were camped on the bed of a creek. They seemed to have just +breakfasted, and were most liberal in their presentations of fish +and cake. We could only return the compliment by some fishhooks and +sugar. About a mile further on we came to a separation of the +creek, where what looked like the main branch, turned towards the +south. This channel we followed, not however without some +misgivings as to its character, which were soon increased by the +small and unfavourable appearance that the creek assumed. On our +continuing along it a little further it began to improve and +widened out with fine waterholes of considerable depth. The banks +were very steep, and a belt of scrub lined it on either side. This +made it very inconvenient for travelling, especially as the bed of +the creek was full of water for a considerable distance. At eleven +A.M., we halted, until 1.30 P.M., and then moved on again taking a +south-south-westerly course for about two miles, when at the end of +a very long waterhole it breaks into billibongs, which continue +splitting into sandy channels until they are all lost in the earthy +soil of a box forest. Seeing little chance of water ahead, we +turned back to the end of the long waterhole and camped for the +night. On our way back, Rajah showed signs of being done up. He had +been trembling greatly all the morning. On this account his load +was further lightened to the amount of a few pounds by the doing +away with the sugar, ginger, tea, cocoa, and two or three tin +plates.--To Camp 8. + +From Camp 8. + +Friday, 3rd May, 1861.--Started at seven A.M., striking off in a +northerly direction for the main creek. At a mile and a-half came +to a branch which--[Left unfinished].--To Camp 9. + +Junction.--From Camp 9. + +Saturday, 4th May, 1861.--Night and morning very cold. Sky clear, +almost calm, occasionally a light breath of air from south. Rajah +appears to feel the cold very much. He was so stiff this morning as +to be scarcely able to get up with his load. Started to return down +the creek at 6.45, and halted for breakfast at 9 A.M., at the same +spot as we breakfasted at yesterday. Proceeding from there down the +creek we soon found a repetition of the features that were +exhibited by the creek examined on Thursday. At a mile and a-half +we came to the last waterhole, and below that the channel became +more sandy and shallow, and continued to send off billibongs to the +south and west, slightly changing its course each time until it +disappeared altogether in a north-westerly direction. Leaving King +with the camel, we went on a mile or two to see if we could find +water; and being unsuccessful we were obliged to return to where we +had breakfasted as being the best place for feed and water.--To +Camp 10. + +Sunday, 5th May, 1861.--Started by myself, to reconnoitre the +country in a southerly direction, leaving Mr. Burke and King with +the camel at Camp 10. Travelled south-west by south for two hours, +following the course of the most southerly billibongs; found the +earthy soil becoming more loose and cracked up, and the box track +gradually disappearing. Changed course to west for a high sand +ridge, which I reached in one hour and a half, and continuing in +the same direction to one still higher, obtained from it a good +view of the surrounding country. To the north were the extensive +box forests bounding the creek on either side. To the east earthy +plains intersected by watercourses and lines of timber, and bounded +in the distance by sand ridges. To the south the projection of the +sand ridge partially intercepted the view; the rest was composed of +earthy plains, apparently clothed with chrysanthemums. To the +westward another but smaller plain was bounded also by high sand +ridges running nearly parallel with the one on which I was +standing. This dreary prospect offering no encouragement to +proceed, I returned to Camp 10 by a more direct and better route +than I had come, passing over some good salt-bush land which +borders on the billibongs to the westward.--[Here follow some +meteorological notes.] + +From Camp 10 back to 9. + +Monday, 6th May, 1861.--Moved up the creek again to Camp 9, at the +junction, to breakfast, and remained the day there. The present +state of things is not calculated to raise our spirits much; the +rations are rapidly diminishing; our clothing, especially the +boots, are all going to pieces, and we have not the materials for +repairing them properly; the camel is completely done up and can +scarcely get along, although he has the best of feed and is resting +half his time. I suppose this will end in our having to live like +the blacks for a few months. + +From Camp 9. + +Tuesday, 7th May, 1861.--Breakfasted at daylight; but when about to +start, found that the camel would not rise even without any load on +his back. After making every attempt to get him up, we were obliged +to leave him to himself. + +Mr. Burke and I started down the creek to reconnoitre; at about +eleven miles we came to some blacks fishing; they gave us some +half-a-dozen fish each, for luncheon, and intimated that if we +would go to their camp we should have some more and some bread. I +tore in two a piece of macintosh stuff that I had, and Mr. Burke +gave one piece and I the other. We then went on to their camp about +three miles further. They had caught a considerable quantity of +fish, but most of them were small. I noticed three different kinds; +a small one that they call Cupi, from five to six inches long, and +not broader than an eel; the common one, with large coarse scales, +termed Peru; and a delicious fish, some of which run from a pound +to two pounds weight; the natives call them Cawilchi. On our +arrival at the camp they led us to a spot to camp on, and soon +afterwards brought a lot of fish, and a kind of bread which they +call nardoo. The lighting a fire with matches delights them, but +they do not care about having them. In the evening various members +of the tribe came down with lumps of nardoo and handfuls of fish, +until we were positively unable to eat any more. They also gave us +some stuff they call bedgery or pedgery; it has a highly +intoxicating effect when chewed even in small quantities. It +appears to be the dried stems and leaves of some shrub. + +Wednesday, 8th May, 1861.--Left the blacks' camp at 7.30, Mr. Burke +returning to the junction, whilst I proceeded to trace down the +creek. This I found a shorter task than I had expected, for it soon +showed signs of running out, and at the same time kept considerably +to the north of west. There were several fine waterholes within +about four miles of the camp I had left, but not a drop all the way +beyond that, a distance of seven miles. Finding that the creek +turned greatly towards the north, I returned to the blacks' +encampment, and as I was about to pass they invited me to stay;--I +did so, and was even more hospitably entertained than before, +being, on this occasion, offered a share of a gunyah, and supplied +with plenty of fish and nardoo, as well as a couple of nice fat +rats--the latter found most delicious; they were baked in their +skins. + +Last night was clear and calm, but unusually warm. We slept by a +fire just in front of the blacks' camp; they were very attentive in +bringing us firewood and keeping the fire up during the night. + +Thursday, 9th May, 1861.--Parted from my friends, the blacks, at 7. +30, and started for camp 9. + +From Camp 9. + +Friday, 10th May, 1861.--Mr. Burke and King employed in jerking the +camel's flesh, whilst I went out to look for the nardoo seed for +making bread: in this I was unsuccessful, not being able to find a +single tree of it in the neighbourhood of the camp. I, however, +tried boiling the large kind of bean which the blacks call padlu; +they boil easily, and when shelled are very sweet, much resembling +in taste the French chestnut; they are to be found in large +quantities nearly everywhere. + +Saturday, 11th May, 1861.--To-day Mr. Burke and King started down +the creek to the blacks' camp, determined to ascertain all +particulars about the nardoo. I have now my turn at the meat +jerking, and must devise some means for trapping the birds and +rats, which is a pleasant prospect after our dashing trip to +Carpentaria, having to hang about Cooper's Creek, living like the +blacks. + +Sunday, 12th May, 1861.--Mr. Burke and King returned this morning, +having been unsuccessful in their search for the blacks, who it +seems have moved over to the other branch of the creek. + +Decided on moving out on the main creek tomorrow, and then trying +to find the natives of the creek. + +Monday, 13th May, 1861.--Shifted some of the things, and brought +them back again, Mr. Burke thinking it better for one to remain +here with them for a few days, so as to eat the remains of the +fresh meat, whilst the others went in search of the blacks and +nardoo. + +Tuesday, 14th May, 1861.--Mr. Burke and King gone up the creek to +look for blacks with four days' provisions. Self employed in +preparing for a final start on their return. + +This evening Mr. Burke and King returned, having been some +considerable distance up the creek and found no blacks. It is now +settled that we plant the things, and all start together the day +after to-morrow. + +The weather continues very fine; the nights calm, clear and cold, +and the days clear, with a breeze generally from south, but to-day +from east, for a change; this makes the first part of the day +rather cold. When clouds appear they invariably move from west to +east. + +Wednesday, 15th, 1861.--Planting the things and preparing to leave +the creek for Mount Hopeless. + +Thursday, 16th, 1861.--Having completed our planting, etc., started +up the creek for the second blacks' camp, a distance of about eight +miles: finding our loads rather too heavy we made a small plant +here of such articles as could best be spared.--[Here follow a few +meteorological notes.] + +Nardoo, Friday, 17th May, 1861.--Started this morning on a blacks' +path, leaving the creek on our left, our intention being to keep a +south-easterly direction until we should cut some likely looking +creek, and then to follow it down. On approaching the foot of the +first sandhill, King caught sight in the flat of some nardoo seeds, +and we soon found that the flat was covered with them. This +discovery caused somewhat of a revolution in our feelings, for we +considered that with the knowledge of this plant we were in a +position to support ourselves, even if we were destined to remain +on the creek and wait for assistance from town. Crossing some sand +ridges, running north and south, we struck into a creek which runs +out of Cooper's Creek, and followed it down; at about five miles we +came to a large waterhole, beyond which the watercourse runs out on +extensive flats and earthy plains. + +Calm night; sky cleared towards morning, and it became very cold. A +slight easterly breeze sprung up at sunrise but soon died away +again. The sky again became overcast and remained so throughout the +day. There was occasionally a light breeze from south, but during +the greater portion of the day it was quite calm. Fine halo around +the sun in the afternoon. + +Camp 16. + +Saturday, 18th May, 1861.--[No entry except the following +meteorological entry on an opposite page, which may probably refer +to this date.] Calm night; sky sometimes clear and sometimes +partially overcast with veil clouds. + +Sunday, 19th May, 1861.--[No entry beyond this citation of date.] + +Monday, 20th May, 1861.--[No entry beyond this citation of date.] + +Tuesday, 21st May.--Creek.--[No entry beyond this citation of date.] + +Wednesday, 22nd May, 1861.--Cooper's Creek.--[No entry beyond this +citation of date.] + +Thursday, 23rd May, 1861.--[No entry beyond this citation of date.] + +Friday, 24th May, 1861.--Started with King to celebrate the Queen's +birthday by fetching from Nardoo Creek what is now to us the staff +of life; returned at a little after two P.M. with a fair supply, +but find the collecting of the seed a slower and more troublesome +process than could be desired. Whilst picking the seed, about +eleven A.M., both of us heard distinctly the noise of an explosion, +as if of a gun, at some considerable distance. We supposed it to +have been a shot fired by Mr. Burke, but on returning to the camp +found that he had not fired, nor had heard the noise. The sky was +partially overcast with high cumulostratus clouds, and a light +breeze blew from the east, but nothing to indicate a thunderstorm +in any direction. + +Saturday, 25th May, 1861.--[No entry beyond this.] + +Sunday, 26th May.--[No entry beyond this.] + +Monday, 27th May, 1861.--Started up the creek this morning for the +depot, in order to deposit journals and a record of the state of +affairs here. On reaching the sandhills below where Landa was +bogged, I passed some blacks on a flat collecting nardoo seed. +Never saw such an abundance of the seed before. The ground in some +parts was quite black with it. There were only two or three gins +and children, and they directed me on, as if to their camp, in the +direction I was before going; but I had not gone far over the first +sandhill when I was overtaken by about twenty blacks, bent on +taking me back to their camp, and promising any quantity of nardoo +and fish. On my going with them, one carried the shovel, and +another insisted on taking my swag in such a friendly manner that I +could not refuse them. They were greatly amused with the various +little things I had with me. In the evening they supplied me with +abundance of nardoo and fish, and one of the old men, Poko +Tinnamira, shared his gunyah with me. . .The night was very cold, +but by the help of several fires--[The entry suddenly stops here; +but in the margin of the opposite page is written the names of +several natives, and certain native words with their meanings in +English.] + +Tuesday, 28th May, 1861:--Left the blacks' camp, and proceeded up +the creek; obtained some mussels near where Landa died, and halted +for breakfast. Still feel very unwell from the effects of +constipation of the bowels. After breakfast travelled on to our +third camp coming down. + +Wednesday, 29th.--Started at seven A.M. and went on to the +duck-holes, where we breakfasted coming down. Halted there at 9.30 +A.M. for a feed, and then moved on. At the stones saw a lot of +crows quarrelling about something near the water; found it to be a +large fish, of which they had eaten a considerable portion. As it +was quite fresh and good, I decided the quarrel by taking it with +me. . .It proved a most valuable addition to my otherwise scanty +supper of nardoo porridge. This evening I camped very comfortably +in a mia-mia, about eleven miles from the depot. The night was very +cold, although not entirely cloudless. A brisk easterly breeze +sprang up in the morning, and blew freshly all day. In the evening +the sky clouded in, and there were one or two slight showers, but +nothing to wet the ground. + +Thursday, 30th May, 1861.--Reached the depot this morning at eleven +A.M.; no traces of any one except blacks having been here since we +left. Deposited some journals and a notice of our present +condition. Started back in the afternoon, and camped at the first +waterhole. Last night, being cloudy, was unusually warm and +pleasant. [Footnote: The notice left in the cache ran as follows:-- + +Depot Camp, May 30th. + +We have been unable to leave the creek. Both camels are dead, +and our provisions are exhausted. Mr. Burke and King are down the +lower part of the creek. I am about to return to them, when we +shall probably come up this way. We are trying to live the best way +we can, like the blacks, but find it hard work. Our clothes are +going to pieces fast. Send provisions and clothes as soon as +possible. + +W.J. WILLS. + +The depot party having left, contrary to instructions, has put us +in this fix. I have deposited some of my journals here for fear of +accident. + +W.J.W. + +Friday, 31st May, 1861.--Decamped at 7.30 A.M., having first +breakfasted; passed between the sandhills at nine A.M., and reached +the blanket mia-mias at 10.40 A.M.; from there proceeded on to the +rocks, where I arrived at 1.30 P.M., having delayed about +half-an-hour on the road in gathering some portulac. It had been a +fine morning, but the sky now became overcast, and threatened to +set in for steady rain; and as I felt very weak and tired, I only +moved on about a mile further, and camped in a sheltered gully +under some bushes. Night clear and very cold; no wind; towards +morning, sky became slightly overcast with cirrostratus clouds. + +Saturday, 1st June, 1861.--Started at 7.45 A.M.; passed the +duck-holes at ten A.M. and my second camp up, at two P.M., having +rested in the meantime about forty-five minutes. Thought to have +reached the blacks' camp, or at least where Landa was bogged, but +found myself altogether too weak and exhausted; in fact, had +extreme difficulty in getting across the numerous little gullies, +and was at last obliged to camp from sheer fatigue. Night +ultimately both clear and cloudy, with occasional showers. + +Sunday, 2nd June, 1861.--Started at half-past six, thinking to +breakfast at the blacks' camp below Landa's grave. Found myself +very much fagged, and did not arrive at their camp until ten A.M., +and then found myself disappointed as to a good breakfast, the camp +being deserted. Having rested awhile and eaten a few fish-bones, I +moved down the creek, hoping by a late march to be able to reach +our own camp; but I soon found, from my extreme weakness, that that +would be out of the question. A certain amount of good luck, +however, still stuck to me, for on going along by a large waterhole +I was so fortunate as to find a large fish, about a pound and a +half in weight, which was just being choked by another which it had +tried to swallow, but which had stuck in its throat. I soon had a +fire lit, and both of the fish cooked and eaten: the large one was +in good condition. Moving on again after my late breakfast, I +passed Camp 67 of the journey to Carpentaria, and camped for the +night under some polygonum bushes. + +Monday, 3rd June, 1861.--Started at seven o'clock, and keeping on +the south bank of the creek was rather encouraged at about three +miles by the sound of numerous crows ahead; presently fancied I +could see smoke, and was shortly afterwards set at my ease by +hearing a cooey from Pitchery, who stood on the opposite bank, and +directed me round the lower end of the waterhole, continually +repeating his assurance of abundance of fish and bread. Having with +some considerable difficulty managed to ascend the sandy path that +led to the camp, I was conducted by the chief to a fire where a +large pile of fish were just being cooked in the most approved +style. These I imagined to be for the general consumption of the +half-dozen natives gathered around, but it turned out that they had +already had their breakfast. I was expected to dispose of this +lot--a task which, to my own astonishment, I soon accomplished, +keeping two or three blacks pretty steadily at work extracting the +bones for me. The fish being disposed of, next came a supply of +nardoo cake and water until I was so full as to be unable to eat +any more; when Pitchery, allowing me a short time to recover +myself, fetched a large bowl of the raw nardoo flour mixed to a +thin paste, a most insinuating article, and one that they appear to +esteem a great delicacy. I was then invited to stop the night +there, but this I declined, and proceeded on my way home. + +Tuesday, 4th June, 1861.--Started for the blacks' camp intending to +test the practicability of living with them, and to see what I +could learn as to their ways and manners. + +Wednesday, 5th June, 1861.--Remained with the blacks. Light rain +during the greater part of the night, and more or less throughout +the day in showers. Wind blowing in squalls from south. + +Thursday, 6th June, 1861.--Returned to our own camp: found that Mr. +Burke and King had been well supplied with fish by the blacks. Made +preparation for shifting our camp nearer theirs on the morrow. + +. . . + +During my son's absence, which lasted for eleven days, in which +he travelled altogether above seventy miles, King mentions in his +narrative that Mr. Burke, whilst frying some fish set fire to the +mia-mia (a shelter made by the blacks with bushes of trees, so +thickly laid that it serves to exclude the sun and a great deal of +rain); thus destroying every remnant of clothing. King told me that +nothing was saved but a gun, although his narrative says a pistol +also; but Mr. Burke's pistol was burnt. + +The incidents of the journal from the 27th of May to the 5th of +June, show how well my son had established himself in the good +graces of the natives. Had it been his fortune to have survived, we +should probably have had an interesting account of these simple +aborigines and their doings. + +. . . + +Friday, 7th June, 1861.--Started in the afternoon for the +blacks' camp with such things as we could take; found ourselves all +very weak in spite of the abundant supply of fish that we have +lately had. I, myself, could scarcely get along, although carrying +the lightest swag, only about thirty pounds. Found that the blacks +had decamped, so determined on proceeding to-morrow up to the next +camp, near the nardoo field. + +Saturday, 8th June, 1861.--With the greatest fatigue and difficulty +we reached the nardoo camp. No blacks, greatly to our +disappointment; took possession of their best mia-mia and rested +for the remainder of the day. + +Sunday, 9th June, 1861.--King and I proceeded to collect nardoo, +leaving Mr. Burke at home. + +Monday, 10th June, 1861.--Mr. Burke and King collecting nardoo; +self at home too weak to go out; was fortunate enough to shoot a +crow.--[Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to +relate to another period.] + +Tuesday, 11th June, 1861.--King out for nardoo; Mr. Burke up the +creek to look for the blacks. + +Wednesday, 12th June, 1861.--King out collecting nardoo; Mr. Burke +and I at home pounding and cleaning. I still feel myself, if +anything, weaker in the legs, although the nardoo appears to be +more thoroughly digested. + +Thursday, 13th June, 1861.--Last night the sky was pretty clear, +and the air rather cold, but nearly calm, a few cirrostratus hung +about the north-east horizon during the first part of the night. +Mr. Burke and King out for nardoo; self weaker than ever; scarcely +able to go to the waterhole for water. Towards afternoon, +cirrocumulus and cirrostratus began to appear moving northward. +Scarcely any wind all day. + +Friday, 14th June, 1861.--Night alternately clear and cloudy; +cirrocumulus and cumulostratus moving northwards; no wind; +beautifully mild for the time of year; in the morning some heavy +clouds on the horizon. King out for nardoo; brought in a good +supply. Mr. Burke and I at home, pounding and cleaning seed. I feel +weaker than ever, and both Mr. B. and King are beginning to feel +very unsteady in the legs. + +Saturday, 15th June, 1861.--Night clear, calm, and cold; morning +very fine, with a light breath of air from north-east. King out for +nardoo; brought in a fine supply. Mr. Burke and I pounding and +cleaning; he finds himself getting very weak, and I am not a bit +stronger. + +I have determined on beginning to chew tobacco and eat less nardoo, +in hopes that it may induce some change in the system. I have never +yet recovered from the constipation, the effect of which continues +to be exceedingly painful. + +Sunday, 16th June, 1861.--Wind shifted to north; clouds moving from +west to east; thunder audible two or three times to the southward: +sky becoming densely overcast, with an occasional shower about nine +A.M. + +We finished up the remains of the camel Rajah yesterday, for +dinner; King was fortunate enough to shoot a crow this morning. + +The rain kept all hands in, pounding and cleaning seed during the +morning. The weather cleared up towards the middle of the day, and +a brisk breeze sprang up in the south, lasting till near sunset, +but rather irregular in its force. Distant thunder was audible to +westward and southward frequently during the afternoon. + +Monday, 17th June, 1861.--Night very boisterous and stormy; +northerly wind blowing in squalls, and heavy showers of rain, with +thunder in the north and west; heavy clouds moving rapidly from +north to south; gradually clearing up during the morning; the wind +continuing squally during the day from west and north-west. + +King out in the afternoon for nardoo. + +Tuesday, 18th June, 1861.--Exceedingly cold night; sky clear, +slight breeze, very chilly and changeable; very heavy dew. After +sunrise, cirrostratus clouds began to pass over from west to east, +gradually becoming more dense, and assuming the form of +cumulostratus. The sky cleared, and it became warmer towards noon. + +Wednesday, 19th June, 1861.--Night calm; sky during first part +overcast with cirrocumulus clouds, most of which cleared away +towards morning, leaving the air much colder; but the sky remained +more or less hazy all night, and it was not nearly as cold as last +night. + +About eight o'clock a strong southerly wind sprung up, which +enabled King to blow the dust out of our nardoo seed, but made me +too weak to render him any assistance. + +Thursday, 20th June, 1861.--Night and morning very cold, sky clear. +I am completely reduced by the effects of the cold and starvation. +King gone out for nardoo; Mr. Burke at home pounding seed; he finds +himself getting very weak in the legs. King holds out by far the +best; the food seems to agree with him pretty well. + +Finding the sun come out pretty warm towards noon, I took a +sponging all over; but it seemed to do little good beyond the +cleaning effects, for my weakness is so great that I could not do +it with proper expedition. + +I cannot understand this nardoo at all--it certainly will not agree +with me in any form; we are now reduced to it alone, and we manage +to consume from four to five pounds per day between us; it appears +to be quite indigestible, and cannot possibly be sufficiently +nutritious to sustain life by itself. + +Friday, 21st June, 1861.--Last night was cold and clear, winding up +with a strong wind from north-east in the morning. I feel much +weaker than ever and can scarcely crawl out of the mia-mia. Unless +relief comes in some form or other, I cannot possibly last more +than a fortnight. + +It is a great consolation, at least, in this position of ours, to +know that we have done all we could, and that our deaths will +rather be the result of the mismanagement of others than of any +rash acts of our own. Had we come to grief elsewhere, we could only +have blamed ourselves; but here we are returned to Cooper's Creek, +where we had every reason to look for provisions and clothing; and +yet we have to die of starvation, in spite of the explicit +instructions given by Mr. Burke--"That the depot party should await +our return;" and the strong recommendation to the Committee "that +we should be followed up by a party from Menindie." + +About noon a change of wind took place, and it blew almost as hard +from the west as it did previously from the north-east. A few +cirrocumulus continued to pass over towards east. + +Saturday, 22nd June, 1861.--Night cloudy and warm; every appearance +of rain; thunder once or twice during the night; clouds moving in +an easterly direction; lower atmosphere perfectly calm. There were +a few drops of rain during the night, and in the morning, about +nine A.M., there was every prospect of more rain until towards +noon, when the sky cleared up for a time. + +Mr. Burke and King out for nardoo; the former returned much +fatigued. I am so weak to-day as to be unable to get on my feet. + +Sunday, 23rd June, 1861.--All hands at home. I am so weak as to be +incapable of crawling out of the mia-mia. King holds out well, but +Mr. Burke finds himself weaker every day. + +Monday, 24th June, 1861.--A fearful night. At about an hour before +sunset, a southerly gale sprung up and continued throughout the +greater portion of the night; the cold was intense, and it seemed +as if one would be shrivelled up. Towards morning it fortunately +lulled a little, but a strong cold breeze continued till near +sunset, after which it became perfectly calm. + +King went out for nardoo in spite of the wind, and came in with a +good load; but he himself terribly cut up. He says that he can no +longer keep up the work, and as he and Mr. Burke are both getting +rapidly weaker, we have but a slight chance of anything but +starvation, unless we can get hold of some blacks. + +Tuesday, 25th June, 1861.--Night calm, clear and intensely cold, +especially towards morning. Near daybreak, King reported seeing a +moon in the east, with a haze of light stretching up from it; he +declared it to be quite as large as the moon, and not dim at the +edges. I am so weak that any attempt to get a sight of it was out +of the question; but I think it must have been Venus in the +Zodiacal Light that he saw, with a corona around her. + +26th.--Mr. Burke and King remain at home cleaning and pounding +seed; they are both getting weaker every day; the cold plays the +deuce with us, from the small amount of clothing we have: my +wardrobe consists of a wide-awake, a merino shirt, a regatta shirt +without sleeves, the remains of a pair of flannel trousers, two +pairs of socks in rags, and a waistcoat, of which I have managed to +keep the pockets together. The others are no better off. Besides +these, we have between us, for bedding, two small camel pads, some +horse-hair, two or three little bits of rag, and pieces of +oil-cloth saved from the fire. + +The day turned out nice and warm. + +Wednesday, 27th June, 1861.--Calm night; sky overcast with hazy +cumulostratus clouds; an easterly breeze sprung up towards morning, +making the air much colder. After sunrise there were indications of +a clearing up of the sky, but it soon clouded in again, the upper +current continuing to move in an easterly direction, whilst a +breeze from the north and north-east blew pretty regularly +throughout the day. Mr. Burke and King are preparing to go up the +creek in search of the blacks; they will leave me some nardoo, +wood, and water, with which I must do the best I can until they +return. I THINK THIS IS ALMOST OUR ONLY CHANCE. I feel myself, if +anything, rather better, but I cannot say stronger: the nardoo is +beginning to agree better with me; but without some change I see +little chance for any of us. They have both shown great hesitation +and reluctance with regard to leaving me, and have repeatedly +desired my candid opinion in the matter. I could only repeat, +however, that I considered it our only chance, for I could not last +long on the nardoo, even if a supply could be kept up. + +Thursday, 28th June, 1861.--Cloudy, calm, and comparatively warm +night, clouds almost stationary; in the morning a gentle breeze +from east. Sky partially cleared up during the day, making it +pleasantly warm and bright; it remained clear during the afternoon +and evening, offering every prospect of a clear cold night. + +Friday, 29th June, 1861.--Clear cold night, slight breeze from the +east, day beautifully warm and pleasant. Mr. Burke suffers greatly +from the cold and is getting extremely weak; he and King start +to-morrow up the creek to look for the blacks; it is the only +chance we have of being saved from starvation. I am weaker than +ever, although I have a good appetite and relish the nardoo much; +but it seems to give us no nutriment, and the birds here are so shy +as not to be got at. Even if we got a good supply of fish, I doubt +whether we could do much work on them and the nardoo alone. Nothing +now but the greatest good luck can save any of us; and as for +myself I may live four or five days if the weather continues warm. +My pulse is at forty-eight, and very weak, and my legs and arms are +nearly skin and bone. I can only look out, like Mr. Micawber, 'for +SOMETHING TO TURN up;' starvation on nardoo is by no means very +unpleasant, but for the weakness one feels, and the utter inability +to move one's self; for as far as appetite is concerned, it gives +the greatest satisfaction. Certainly fat and sugar would be more to +one's taste; in fact those seem to me to be the great stand-by for +one in this extraordinary continent: not that I mean to depreciate +the farinaceous food; but the want of sugar and fat in all +substances obtainable here is so great that they become almost +valueless to us as articles of food, without the addition of +something else. + +(Signed) W.J. WILLS. + +CHAPTER 13. + +King's Narrative. +Mr. Burke and King go in search of the Natives, as a last resource. +Death of Mr. Burke. +King returns and finds Mr. Wills dead in the Gunyah. +He falls in with the Natives and wanders about with them until + delivered by Mr. Howitt's party. +Extract from Mr. Howitt's Diary. +Extract from Mr. McKinlay's Diary. +My Son's last Letter to me, dated June 27th, 1861. +Strong Attachment between Mr. Burke and my Son. +King delivers the Letter and Watch intrusted to him. +With some difficulty I recover the Pistol. +King's Reception in Melbourne. +Sir H. Barkly's Letter to Sir Roderick Murchison. +Summary of Events and their Causes. + +THE latter portion of my poor son's journal was transcribed by Mr. +Archer, Registrar-General of Victoria. We may believe that after +writing the last paragraph to which he subscribed his name, he did +not survive for many hours. The sequel, as far as any of its +details can ever be made known to us, is best told in the +unaffected language of + +JOHN KING'S NARRATIVE, + +AS DELIVERED TO THE ROYAL COMMISSION. + +Mr. Burke, Mr. Wills, and I, reached the depot at Cooper's Creek, +on April 21st, about half-past seven in the evening, with two +camels; all that remained of the six Mr. Burke took with him. All +the provisions we then had consisted of one-and-a-half pound of +dried meat. We found the party had gone the same day; and looking +about for any mark they might have left, found the tree with 'DIG, +Ap. 21.' Mr. Wills said the party had left for the Darling. We dug +and found the plant of stores. Mr. Burke took the papers out of the +bottle, and then asked each of us whether we were able to proceed +up the creek in pursuit of the party; we said not, and he then said +that he thought it his duty to ask us, but that he himself was +unable to do so, but that he had decided upon trying to make Mount +Hopeless, as he had been assured by the Committee in Melbourne, +that there was a cattle station within 150 miles of Cooper's Creek. +Mr. Wills was not inclined to follow this plan, and wished to go +down our old track; but at last gave in to Mr. Burke's wishes. I +also wished to go down by our old track. We remained four or five +days to recruit, making preparations to go down the creek by stages +of four or five miles a day, and Mr. Burke placed a paper in the +plant stating what were our plans. Travelling down the creek, we +got some fish from the natives; and some distance down, one of the +camels (Landa) got bogged, and although we remained there that day +and part of the next, trying to dig him out, we found our strength +insufficient to do so. The evening of the second day we shot him as +he lay, and having cut off as much meat as we could, we lived on it +while we stayed to dry the remainder. Throwing all the least +necessary things away, we made one load for the remaining camel +(Rajah), and each of us carried a swag of about twenty-five pounds. +We were then tracing down the branches of the creek running south, +and found that they ran out into earthy plains. We had understood +that the creek along Gregory's track was continuous; and finding +that all these creeks ran out into plains, Mr. Burke returned, our +camel being completely knocked up. We then intended to give the +camel a spell for a few days, and to make a new attempt to push on +forty or fifty miles to the south, in the hope of striking the +creek. During the time that the camel was being rested, Mr. Burke +and Mr. Wills went in search of the natives, to endeavour to find +out how the nardoo grew. Having found their camp, they obtained as +much nardoo cake and fish as they could eat, but could not explain +that they wished to be shown how to find the seed themselves: they +returned on the third day bringing some fish and nardoo cake with +them. On the following day the camel Rajah seemed very ill, and I +told Mr. Burke I thought he could not linger out more than four +days, and as on the same evening the poor brute was on the point of +dying, Mr. Burke ordered him to be shot; I did so, and we cut him +up with two broken knives and a lancet: we cured the meat and +planted it, and Mr. Burke then made another attempt to find the +nardoo, taking me with him: we went down the creek expecting to +find the natives at the camp where they had been last seen, but +found that they had left; and not knowing whether they had gone up +or down the creek, we slept in their gunyahs that night, and on the +following morning returned to Mr. Wills. The next day, Mr. Burke +and I started up the creek, but could see nothing of them, and were +three days away, when we returned and remained three days in our +camp with Mr. Wills. We then made a plant of all the articles we +could not carry with us, leaving five pounds of rice and a quantity +of meat, and then followed up the creek to where there were some +good native huts. We remained at that place a few days; and finding +that our provisions were beginning to run short, Mr. Burke said, +that we ought to do something, and that if we did not find the +nardoo, we should starve, and that he intended to save a little +dried meat and rice to carry us to Mount Hopeless. The three of us +then came to the conclusion that it would be better to make a +second attempt to reach Mount Hopeless, as we were then as strong +as we were likely to be, our daily allowance being then reduced. +Mr. Burke asked each of us whether we were willing to make another +attempt to reach the South Australian settlements, and we decided +on going; we took with us what remained of the provisions we had +planted--two-and-a-half pounds of oatmeal, a small quantity of +flour, and the dried meat: this, with powder and shot, and other +small articles, made up our swags to thirty pounds each, and Mr. +Burke carried one billy of water; and I another. We had not gone +far before we came on a flat, where I saw a plant growing which I +took to be clover, and on looking closer saw the seed, and called +out that I had found the nardoo; they were very glad when I found +it. We travelled three days, and struck a watercourse coming south +from Cooper's Creek; we traced this as it branched out and +re-formed in the plains, until we at last lost it in flat country; +sandhills were in front of us, for which we made, and travelled all +day but found no water. We were all greatly fatigued, as our +rations now consisted of only one small Johnny cake and three +sticks of dried meat daily. We camped that evening about four +o'clock, intending to push next day until two o'clock P.M., and +then, should we not find water, to return. We travelled and found +no water, and the three of us sat down and rested for one hour, and +then turned back. We all felt satisfied that had there been a few +days' rain we could have got through: we were then, according to +Mr. Wills's calculation, forty-five miles from the creek. We +travelled, on the day we turned back, very late, and the following +evening reached the nearest water at the creek. We gathered some +nardoo and boiled the seeds, as we were unable to pound them. The +following day we reached the main creek; and knowing where there +was a fine waterhole and native gunyahs, we went there intending to +save what remained of our flour and dried meat for the purpose of +making another attempt to reach Mount Hopeless. On the following +day Mr. Wills and I went out to gather nardoo, of which we obtained +a supply sufficient for three days, and finding a pounding stone at +the gunyahs, Mr. Burke and I pounded the seed, which was such slow +work that we were compelled to use half flour and half nardoo. Mr. +Burke and Mr. Wills then went down the creek for the remainder of +the dried meat which we had planted; and we had now all our things +with us, gathering nardoo and living the best way we could. Mr. +Burke requested Mr. Wills to go up the creek as far as the depot, +and to place a note in the plant there, stating that we were then +living on the creek, the former note having stated that we were on +our road to South Australia. He also was to bury there the +field-books of the journey to the Gulf. Before starting he got +three pounds of flour and four pounds of pounded nardoo, and about +a pound of meat, as he expected to be absent about eight days. +During his absence I gathered nardoo and pounded it, as Mr. Burke +wished to lay in a supply in case of rain. + +A few days after Mr. Wills left, some natives came down the creek +to fish at some waterholes near our camp. They were very civil to +us at first and offered us some fish. On the second day they came +again to fish, and Mr. Burke took down two bags, which they filled +for him. On the third day they gave us one bag of fish, and +afterwards all came to our camp. We used to keep our ammunition and +other articles in one gunyah, and all three of us lived together in +another. One of the natives took an oilcloth out of this gunyah, +and Mr. Burke seeing him run away with it followed him with his +revolver and fired over his head, and upon this the native dropt +the oilcloth; while he was away, the other blacks invited me away +to a waterhole to eat fish, but I declined to do so as Mr. Burke +was absent, and a number of natives were about who would have taken +all our things. When I refused, one took his boomerang and laid it +over my shoulder, and then told me by signs that if I called out +for Mr. Burke (as I was doing) that he would strike me; upon this I +got them all in front of the gunyah and fired a revolver over their +heads, but they did not seem at all afraid until I got out the gun, +when they all ran away. Mr. Burke hearing the report came back, and +we saw no more of them until late that night, when they came with +some cooked fish and called out "white fellow." Mr. Burke then went +out with his revolver, and found a whole tribe coming down, all +painted, and with fish in small nets carried by two men. Mr. Burke +went to meet them, and they wished to surround him; but he knocked +as many of the nets of fish out of their hands as he could, and +shouted out to me to fire. I did so, and they ran off. We collected +five small nets of cooked fish. The reason he would not accept the +fish from them was, that he was afraid of being too friendly lest +they should be always at our camp. We then lived on fish until Mr. +Wills returned. He told us that he had met the natives soon after +leaving us, and that they were very kind to him, and had given him +plenty to eat both on going up and returning. He seemed to consider +that he should have very little difficulty in living with them, and +as their camp was close to ours he returned to them the same day +and found them very hospitable and friendly, keeping him with them +two days. They then made signs to him to be off: he came to us and +narrated what had happened, but went back to them the following +day, when they gave him his breakfast, but made signs for him to go +away; he pretended not to understand them, and would not go, upon +which they made signs that they were going up the creek, and that +he had better go down: they packed up and left the camp, giving Mr. +Wills a little nardoo to take to us. + +During his absence, while Mr. Burke was cooking some fish during a +strong wind, the flames caught the gunyah and burned so rapidly +that we were unable not only to put it out but to save any of our +things, excepting one revolver and a gun. Mr. Wills having +returned, it was decided to go up the creek and live with the +natives if possible, as Mr. Wills thought we should have but little +difficulty in obtaining provisions from them if we camped on the +opposite side of the creek to them. He said he knew where they were +gone, so we packed up and started. Coming to the gunyahs where we +expected to have found them, we were disappointed, and seeing a +nardoo field close by halted, intending to make it our camp. For +some time we were employed gathering nardoo, and laying up a +supply. Mr. Wills and I used to collect and carry home a bag each +day, and Mr. Burke generally pounded sufficient for our dinner +during our absence; but Mr. Wills found himself getting very weak, +and was shortly unable to go out to gather nardoo as before, or +even strong enough to pound it, so that in a few days he became +almost helpless. I still continued gathering, and Mr. Burke now +also began to feel very weak, and said he could be of very little +use in pounding; I had now to gather and pound for all three of us. +I continued to do this for a few days; but finding my strength +rapidly failing, my legs being very weak and painful, I was unable +to go out for several days, and we were compelled to consume six +days' stock which we had laid by. Mr. Burke now proposed that I +should gather as much as possible in three days, and that with this +supply we should go in search of the natives--a plan which had been +urged upon us by Mr. Wills as the only chance of saving him and +ourselves as well, as he clearly saw that I was no longer able to +collect sufficient for our wants. Having collected the seed as +proposed, and having pounded sufficient to last Mr. Wills for eight +days, and two days for ourselves, we placed water and firewood +within his reach and started; before leaving him, however, Mr. +Burke asked him whether he still wished it, as under no other +circumstance would he leave him, and Mr. Wills again said that he +looked on it as our only chance. He then gave Mr. Burke a letter +and his watch for his father, and we buried the remainder of the +field-books near the gunyah. Mr. Wills said that, in case of my +surviving Mr. Burke, he hoped that I would carry out his last +wishes, in giving the watch and letter to his father. + +In travelling the first day, Mr. Burke seemed very weak, and +complained of great pain in his legs and back. On the second day he +seemed to be better, and said that he thought he was getting +stronger, but on starting, did not go two miles before he said he +could go no further. I persisted in his trying to go on, and +managed to get him along several times, until I saw that he was +almost knocked up, when he said he could not carry his swag, and +threw all he had away. I also reduced mine, taking nothing but a +gun and some powder and shot, and a small pouch and some matches. +In starting again, we did not go far before Mr. Burke said we +should halt for the night; but as the place was close to a large +sheet of water, and exposed to the wind, I prevailed on him to go a +little further, to the next reach of water, where we camped. We +searched about and found a few small patches of nardoo, which I +collected and pounded, and with a crow, which I shot, made a good +evening's meal. From the time we halted Mr. Burke seemed to be +getting worse, although he ate his supper; he said he felt +convinced he could not last many hours, and gave me his watch, +which he said belonged to the committee, and a pocket-book to give +to Sir William Stawell, and in which he wrote some notes. He then +said to me, "I hope you will remain with me here till I am quite +dead--it is a comfort to know that some one is by; but, when I am +dying, it is my wish that you should place the pistol in my right +hand, and that you leave me unburied as I lie." That night he spoke +very little, and the following morning I found him speechless, or +nearly so, and about eight o'clock he expired. I remained a few +hours there, but as I saw there was no use remaining longer I went +up the creek in search of the natives. I felt very lonely, and at +night usually slept in deserted wurleys belonging to the natives. +Two days after leaving the spot where Mr. Burke died, I found some +gunyahs where the natives had deposited a bag of nardoo, sufficient +to last me a fortnight, and three bundles containing various +articles. I also shot a crow that evening; but was in great dread +that the natives would come and deprive me of the nardoo. + +I remained there two days to recover my strength, and then returned +to Mr. Wills. I took back three crows; but found him lying dead in +his gunyah, and the natives had been there and had taken away some +of his clothes. I buried the corpse with sand, and remained there +some days, but finding that my stock of nardoo was running short, +and as I was unable to gather it, I tracked the natives who had +been to the camp by their footprints in the sand, and went some +distance down the creek shooting crows and hawks on the road. The +natives, hearing the report of the gun, came to meet me, and took +me with them to their camp, giving me nardoo and fish: they took +the birds I had shot and cooked them for me, and afterwards showed +me a gunyah where I was to sleep with three of the single men. The +following morning they commenced talking to me, and putting one +finger on the ground and covering it with sand, at the same time +pointing up the creek saying "white fellow," which I understood to +mean that one white man was dead. From this I knew that they were +the tribe who had taken Mr. Wills's clothes. They then asked me +where the third white man was, and I also made the sign of putting +two fingers on the ground and covering them with sand, at the same +time pointing up the creek. They appeared to feel great compassion +for me when they understood that I was alone on the creek, and gave +me plenty to eat. After being four days with them, I saw that they +were becoming tired of me, and they made signs that they were going +up the creek and that I had better go downwards; but I pretended +not to understand them. The same day they shifted camp, and I +followed them, and on reaching their camp I shot some crows, which +pleased them so much that they made me a breakwind in the centre of +their camp, and came and sat round me until such time as the crows +were cooked, when they assisted me to eat them. The same day one of +the women, to whom I had given part of a crow, came and gave me a +ball of nardoo, saying that she would give me more only she had +such a sore arm that she was unable to pound. She showed me a sore +on her arm, and the thought struck me that I would boil some water +in the billy and wash her arm with a sponge. During the operation, +the whole tribe sat round and were muttering one to another. Her +husband sat down by her side, and she was crying all the time. +After I had washed it, I touched it with some nitrate of silver, +when she began to yell, and ran off, crying out "Mokow! Mokow!" +(Fire! Fire!). From this time, she and her husband used to give me +a small quantity of nardoo both night and morning, and whenever the +tribe was about going on a fishing excursion he used to give me +notice to go with them. They also used to assist me in making a +wurley or breakwind whenever they shifted camp. I generally shot a +crow or a hawk, and gave it to them in return for these little +services. Every four or five days the tribe would surround me and +ask whether I intended going up or down the creek; at last I made +them understand that if they went up I should go up the creek, and +if they went down I should also go down; and from this time they +seemed to look upon me as one of themselves, and supplied me with +fish and nardoo regularly: they were very anxious, however, to know +where Mr. Burke lay, and one day when we were fishing in the +waterholes close by, I took them to the spot. On seeing his +remains, the whole party wept bitterly, and covered them with +bushes. After this, they were much kinder to me than before, and I +always told them that the white men would be here before two moons; +and in the evening when they came with nardoo and fish they used to +talk about the "white-fellows" coming, at the same time pointing to +the moon. I also told them they would receive many presents, and +they constantly asked me for tomahawks, called by them "Bomay Ko." +From this time to when the relief party arrived, a period of about +a month, they treated me with uniform kindness, and looked upon me +as one of themselves. The day on which I was released, one of the +tribe who had been fishing came and told me that the "white +fellows," were coming, and the whole of the tribe who were then in +camp sallied out in every direction to meet the party, while the +man who had brought the news took me over the creek, where I +shortly saw the party coming down. + +. . . + +Brahe having quitted Cooper's Creek, as we have seen, on the 21st of +April, retraced his steps, towards the Darling. On the 28th or 29th +(there is a doubt about the exact date), he fell in with Wright's +party at Bulloo, and placed himself under his orders. On the 29th, +Dr. Becker died. On the 1st of May they left Bulloo, on their +return to Menindie. On the 3rd, Wright makes the following entry in +his diary:-- + +Friday, Koorliatto.--As I was anxious to ascertain, before +finally leaving the country, whether Mr. Burke had visited the old +depot at Cooper's Creek, between the present date and that on which +he left on his advance northward, or whether the stores cached +there had been disturbed by the natives, I started with Mr. Brahe +and three horses for Cooper's Creek and reached the head waters of +that creek on Sunday, the 5th May, in about seventy miles, steering +about west-north-west. I did not find any water throughout the +distance, but crossed several fine large gum creeks, and saw an +immense number of native dogs. + +Thursday, May 9th.--This morning I reached Cooper's Creek depot, +and found no sign of Mr. Burke having visited the creek, or of the +natives having disturbed the stores. I therefore retraced my steps +to the depot that remained at Koorliatto. + +. . . + +On the examination of Wright and Brahe before the Royal Commission, +it came out that they did not remain more than a quarter of an hour +at Cooper's Creek depot, casting only a hurried glance around; and +believing that no one had been there, never thought of opening the +cache to identify the fact. Had they done so, they would have found +the papers and letters deposited by Mr. Burke, and all would yet +have been well. It is much to be regretted, and may excite some +surprise, that Burke and my son, after opening and closing up the +cache, affixed no EXTERNAL token of their having been there. But +the apathy, stupidity, and carelessness of Wright and Brahe are +really beyond comprehension. The effect of their miserably evasive +and contradictory evidence, when under examination, can never be +forgotten by those who were present. They, too, left no indications +of their useless visit. It will be remembered that twenty-two days +after, on the 30th of May, my son returned to Cooper's Creek for +the last time, and deposited his journals and letters in the cache. + +The following extracts from Mr. Howitt's diary relate the discovery +of King, with the finding and interment of the remains of Mr. Burke +and my son. + +September 14th, 1861.--Latitude, 27 degrees 4 minutes; longitude +140 degrees 4 minutes.--Camped on a large waterhole, about a +quarter of a mile below Mr. Burke's first camp, after leaving the +depot at Cooper's Creek. We could see where the camels had been +tied up, but found no marked tree. To-day I noticed in two or three +places old camel-droppings and tracks, where Mr. Brahe informed me +he was certain their camels had never been, as they were watched +every day near the depot and tied up at night. Mr. Burke's camels +were led on the way down. It looked very much as if stray camels +had been about during the last four months. The tracks seemed to me +to be going up the creek, but the ground was too strong to be able +to make sure. + +September 15th.--Camp 32.--Latitude, 27 degrees 44 minuts; +longitude, 140 degrees 40 minutes.--On leaving this morning I went +ahead with Sandy, to try and pick up Mr. Burke's track. At the +lower end of a large waterhole, from which one or two horses had +been feeding for some months, the tracks ran in all directions to +and from the water, and even as recent as a week. At the same place +I found the handle of a clasp-knife. From here struck out south for +a short distance from the creek, and found a distinct camel's track +and droppings on a native path: the footprint was about four months +old and going east. I then sent the black boy to follow the creek, +and struck across some sandy country in a bend on the north side. +No tracks here; and coming on a native path leading my way, I +followed it, as the most likely place to see any signs. In about +four miles this led me to the lower end of a very large reach of +water, and on the opposite side were numbers of native wurleys. I +crossed at a neck of sand, and at a little distance again came on +the track of a camel going up the creek; at the same time I found a +native, who began to gesticulate in a very excited manner, and to +point down the creek, bawling out, "Gow, gow!" as loud as he could. +When I went towards him he ran away, and finding it impossible to +get him to come to me, I turned back to follow a camel track, and +to look after my party. The track was visible in sandy places, and +was evidently the same I had seen for the last two days. I also +found horse traces in places, but very old. Crossing the creek, I +cut our track, and rode after the party. In doing so I came upon +three pounds of tobacco, which had lain where I saw it for some +time. This, together with a knife-handle, fresh horse tracks, and +the camel track going eastward, puzzled me extremely, and led me +into a hundred conjectures. At the lower end of the large reach of +water before mentioned, I met Sandy and Frank looking for me, with +the intelligence that King, the only survivor of Mr. Burke's party, +had been found. A little further on I found the party halted, and +immediately went across to the blacks' wurleys, where I found King +sitting in a hut which the natives had made for him. He presented a +melancholy appearance--wasted to a shadow, and hardly to be +distinguished as a civilized being but by the remnants of clothes +upon him. He seemed exceedingly weak, and I found it occasionally +difficult to follow what he said. The natives were all gathered +round, seated on the ground, looking with a most gratified and +delighted expression. + +September 18th.--Left camp this morning with Messrs. Brahe, Welsh, +Wheeler, and King, to perform a melancholy duty, which has weighed +on my mind ever since we have encamped here, and which I have only +put off until King should be well enough to accompany us. We +proceeded down the creek for seven miles, crossing a branch running +to the southward, and followed a native track leading to that part +of the creek where Mr. Burke, Mr. Wills, and King encamped after +their unsuccessful attempt to reach Mount Hopeless and the northern +settlements of South Australia, and where poor Wills died. We found +the two gunyahs situated on a sand-bank between two waterholes and +about a mile from the flat where they procured nardoo seed, on +which they managed to exist so long. Poor Wills's remains we found +lying in the wurley in which he died, and where King, after his +return from seeking for the natives, had buried him with sand and +rushes. We carefully collected the remains and interred them where +they lay; and, not having a prayer-book, I read chapter 15 of 1 +Corinthians, that we might at least feel a melancholy satisfaction +in having shown the last respect to his remains. We heaped sand +over the grave, and laid branches upon it, that the natives might +understand by their own tokens not to disturb the last repose of a +fellow-being. I cut the following inscription on a tree close by, +to mark the spot:-- + +W.J.WILLS, +XLV. YDS. +W.N.W. +A.H. + +(W. J. WILLS, 45 yards, west-north-west. A.H.) + +The field-books, a note-book belonging to Mr. Burke, various +small articles lying about, of no value in themselves, but now +invested with a deep interest, from the circumstances connected +with them, and some of the nardoo seed on which they had subsisted, +with the small wooden trough in which it had been cleaned, I have +now in my possession. + +September 21st.--Finding that it would not be prudent for King to +go out for two or three days, I could no longer defer making a +search for the spot where Mr. Burke died, and with such directions +as King could give, I went up to the creek this morning with +Messrs. Brahe, Welsh, Wheeler, and Aitkin. We searched the creek +upwards for eight miles, and at length, strange to say, found the +remains of Mr. Burke lying among tall plants under a clump of +box-trees, within two hundred yards of our last camp, and not +thirty paces from our track. It was still more extraordinary that +three or four of the party and the two black boys had been close to +the spot without noticing it. The bones were entire, with the +exception of the hands and feet; and the body had been removed from +the spot where it first lay, and where the natives had placed +branches over it, to about five paces' distance. I found the +revolver which Mr. Burke held in his hand when he expired partly +covered with leaves and earth, and corroded with rust. It was +loaded and capped. We dug a grave close to the spot, and interred +the remains wrapped in the union jack--the most fitting covering in +which the bones of a brave but unfortunate man could take their +last rest. On a box-tree, at the head of the grave, the following +inscription is cut in a similar manner to the above:-- + +R.O'H.B. +21/9/61 +A.H. + +September 23rd.--Went down the creek to-day in search of the natives +. . .I could not think of leaving without showing them that we +could appreciate and reward the kindness they had shown to Burke's +party and particularly to King. . .Passed the first feeder of +Strleczki's Creek, going to the southward, and at a large reach of +water below, found the natives camped. They made a great commotion +when we rode up, but seemed very friendly. I unpacked my blanket, +and took out specimens of the things I intended giving them,--a +tomahawk, a knife, beads, a looking-glass, comb, and flour and +sugar. The tomahawk was the great object of attraction, after that +the knife, but I think the looking-glass surprised them most. On +seeing their faces reflected, some seemed dazzled, others opened +their eyes like saucers, and made a rattling noise with their +tongues expressive of wonder. We had quite a friendly palaver, and +my watch amused them immensely. I made them understand that they +were to bring the whole tribe up next morning to our camp to +receive their presents, and we parted the best of friends. + +September 24th.--This morning, about ten o'clock, our black friends +appeared in a long procession, men, women, and children, or, as +they here also call them, piccaninnies; and at a mile distance they +commenced bawling at the top of their voices as usual. When +collected altogether on a little flat, just below our camp, they +must have numbered between thirty and forty, and the uproar was +deafening. With the aid of King, I at last got them all seated +before me, and distributed the presents--tomahawks, knives, +necklaces, looking-glasses, combs--amongst them. I think no people +were ever so happy before, and it was very interesting to see how +they pointed out one or another whom they thought might be +overlooked. The piccaninnies were brought forward by their parents +to have red ribbon tied round their dirty little heads. An old +woman, Carrawaw, who had been particularly kind to King, was loaded +with things. I then divided fifty pounds of sugar between them, +each one taking his share in a union-jack pocket-handkerchief, +which they were very proud of. The sugar soon found its way into +their mouths; the flour, fifty pounds of which I gave them, they at +once called "white-fellow nardoo," and explained that they +understood that these things were given to them for having fed +King. Some old clothes were then put on some of the men and women, +and the affair ended in several of our party and several of the +black fellows having an impromptu "corroboree," to the intense +delight of the natives, and I must say, very much to our amusement. +They left, making signs expressive of friendship, carrying their +presents with them. The men all wore a net girdle; and of the women +some wore one of leaves, others of feathers. I feel confident that +we have left the best impression behind us, and that the "white +fellows," as they have already learned to call us, will be looked +on henceforth as friends, and that, in case of emergency, any one +will receive the kindest treatment at their hands. + +. . . + +The South Australian Register, of the 26th of November, 1861, +published at Adelaide, contained the following statement, which +excited universal attention:-- + +The Government have just received from Mr. McKinlay, leader of +the expedition sent from this colony in search of Burke, a diary of +his proceedings up to the 26th of October last. This document +contains a most singular narrative, being nothing less than an +account of McKinlay's discovery of what he believes to be the +remains of Burke's party, who he considers were some time since not +only murdered, but partly eaten by the natives in the neighbourhood +of Cooper's Creek. He, of course, had heard nothing of the result +of Mr. Howitt's expedition, or of Mr. King having been found alive +by that expedition. When, therefore, he came to a spot where there +were graves containing the bones of white men, and where there were +indications of a conflict having taken place with the natives, some +of whom spoke of those white men having been killed and partly +eaten, he came to the conclusion that he had ascertained all that +was possible of Mr. Burke and his companions. He accordingly buried +a letter, containing a statement to this effect, at a place near +where the remains were found, and then after forwarding to Adelaide +the despatch which has now reached us, proceeded westward upon some +other business intrusted to him by the Government. + +It seems fated that every chapter of the unfortunate Burke +exploration shall be marked with unusual interest. The failures at +the beginning of the enterprise, the tragedy of the explorers' +deaths, and the remarkable rescue of the survivor King, are now +followed by a subject of interest altogether new and mysterious. +Certain as it is that McKinlay cannot have discovered the remains +of Burke's party, as he so firmly believed he had, it is equally +clear that some other white men must have met their deaths at the +spot reached by him, and that those deaths were, to all appearance, +the result of foul play. That the remains found by McKinlay cannot +have been those of Burke and Wills, disinterred, removed, and +mangled after death, may be inferred from a number of circumstances +detailed by him in the extracts which we have given from his diary. +It will be seen that marks of violence were found on the remains, +that there were indications of white men having camped in the +neighbourhood (which was far distant from any camp of Burke's), +that one of the natives bore marks of having been engaged in a +conflict where pistols were used, and that, lastly, the natives +themselves said the bones were those of white men who had been +murdered and eaten. All this would probably appear conclusive to +Mr. McKinlay that he had ascertained the fate of the explorers whom +he had been in search of. He was prepared for such a result, and +there were many circumstances favourable to its probability. He saw +even, as he believed, positive indications of camels having been at +the place where he found the graves; and yet, it will be seen, he +speaks of appearances indicating that the remains were buried a +long time ago, and states that some of the human hair discovered +was in a state of decay. This certainly would not accord with the +supposition of the remains being those of Burke. But it is useless +to seek an explanation of this strange matter from the facts at +present before us. It is a mystery which will have further to be +inquired into, and which Mr. McKinlay himself will perhaps be able +to throw some light upon when he reviews all the particulars of the +discovery, with the knowledge before him that Burke and his +companions were not killed by the natives, but died from +starvation, and were buried at places far distant from the spot +where these new remains were discovered. + +. . . + +The following extract from McKinlay's diary details the +incidents here spoken of more minutely. + +October 21st.--Up in good time. Before starting for the grave went +round the lake, taking Mr. Hodgkinson with me, to see if natives +were really on the lake, as I did not intend saddling the camels +to-day if there were no natives here, intending to leave our camp +unprotected--rather unwise, but being so short of hands could not +help it, the grave being much out of sight. Found no natives round +the lake, nor any very recent traces, saving that some of the trees +were still burning that they (when here last) had lighted. We +started at once for the grave, taking a canteen of water with us +and all the arms. On arrival removed the ground carefully, and +close to the top of the earth found the body of a European +enveloped in a flannel shirt with short sleeves--a piece of the +breast of which I have taken--the flesh, I may say, completely +cleared from the bones, and very little hair but what must have +been decomposed; what little there was, I have taken. Description +of body: Skull marked with slight sabre cuts, apparently two in +number--one immediately over the left eye, the other on the right +temple, inclining over right ear, more deep than the left; decayed +teeth existed in both sides of lower jaw and right of upper; the +other teeth were entire and sound. In the lower jaw were two +teeth--one on each side (four between in front) rather projecting, +as is sometimes called in the upper jaw "back teeth." I have +measured the bones of the thigh and leg as well as the arm with a +cord, not having any other method of doing it; gathered all the +bones together and buried them again, cutting a lot of boughs and +other wood and putting over top of the earth. Body lies head south, +feet north, lying on face, head severed from body. On a small tree +immediately south we marked "MK, 21st Oct., 61." Immediately this +was over we questioned the native further on the subject of his +death. He says he was killed by a stroke from what the natives call +a sword (an instrument of semicircular form, five to eight feet +long, and very formidable). He showed us where the whites had been +attacked when encamped. We saw lots of fish-bones, but no evidence +there on the trees to suppose whites had been there. They had +certainly chosen a very bad camp, in the centre of a box scrub, +with native huts within 150 to 200 yards of them. On further +examination we found the dung of camels and horse or horses +evidently tied up a long time ago. Between that and the grave we +found another grave, evidently dug with a spade or shovel, and a +lot of human hair of two colours, that had become decomposed in the +skin of the skull and fallen off in flakes, some of which I have +also taken. I fancy they must all have been murdered here. Dug out +the new-found grave with a stick, the only instrument we had, but +found no remains of bodies, save one little bone. The black +accounted for this in this manner--he says they had eaten them. +Found in an old fireplace immediately adjoining what appeared to be +bones very well burnt, but not in any quantity. In and about the +last grave named, a piece of light blue tweed and fragments of +paper, and small pieces of a Nautical Almanac were found, and an +exploded Eley's cartridge; no appearance on any of the trees of +bullet marks as if a struggle had taken place. On a further +examination of the blacks' camp where the pint pot was found, there +was also found a tin canteen similar to what is used for keeping +naphtha in, or some such stuff, both of which we keep. The natives +say that any memos the whites had are back on the last camp we were +at on the lake with the natives, as well as the iron-work of +saddles, etc., which on our return we mean to endeavour to recover, +if the blacks can be found. It may be rash, but there is necessity +for it. Intend before returning to have a further search. + +. . . + +The next day they dug up a quantity of baked horsehair, which +had apparently been used for saddle stuffing. The hostility +displayed by the blacks compelled Mr. McKinlay and his party to +fire upon them. The mystery attached to the remains here spoken of +has yet to be cleared up. The idea at first entertained that they +were those of Gray is not tenable. A glance at the map will show +that Gray died and was buried far away to the north-east of +McKinlay's track. + +On the day of King's arrival in Melbourne, my son's watch, a gold +chronometer, which he had used to calculate the longitudes by, was +duly delivered to me in presence of the Governor; also his last +letter, distinctly traced in a firm hand on a ruled page torn from +some book. It was not sealed, but neatly wrapped in a loose cover. +The relic is invaluable. + +MR. WILLS'S LAST LETTER TO HIS FATHER. BROUGHT DOWN BY KING. + +Cooper's Creek, 27 June, 1861. + +MY DEAR FATHER, + +These are probably the last lines you will ever get from me. We are +on the point of starvation, not so much from absolute want of food, +but from the want of nutriment in what we can get. + +Our position, although more provoking, is probably not near so +disagreeable as that of poor Harry* and his companions. [Footnote: +Harry, his cousin, Lieutenant Le Vescompte, who perished with Sir +John Franklin.] We have had very good luck, and made a most +successful trip to Carpentaria, and back to where we had every +right to consider ourselves safe, having left a depot here +consisting of four men, twelve horses, and six camels. They had +provisions enough to have lasted them twelve months with proper +economy, and we had also every right to expect that we should have +been immediately followed up from Menindie by another party with +additional provisions and every necessary for forming a permanent +depot at Cooper's Creek. The party we left here had special +instructions not to leave until our return, UNLESS FROM ABSOLUTE +NECESSITY. We left the creek with nominally three months' supply, +but they were reckoned at little over the rate of half rations. We +calculated on having to eat some of the camels. By the greatest +good luck, at every turn, we crossed to the gulf, through a good +deal of fine country, almost in a straight line from here. On the +other side the camels suffered considerably from wet; we had to +kill and jerk one soon after starting back. We had now been out a +little more than two months, and found it necessary to reduce the +rations considerably; and this began to tell on all hands, but I +felt it by far less than any of the others. The great scarcity and +shyness of game, and our forced marches, prevented our supplying +the deficiency from external sources to any great extent; but we +never could have held out but for the crows and hawks, and the +portulac. The latter is an excellent vegetable, and I believe +secured our return to this place. We got back here in four months +and four days, and found the party had left the Creek the same day, +and we were not in a fit state to follow them. + +I find I must close this, that it may be planted; but I will write +some more, although it has not so good a chance of reaching you as +this. You have great claims on the committee for their neglect. I +leave you in sole charge of what is coming to me. The whole of my +money I desire to leave to my sisters; other matters I pass over +for the present. Adieu, my dear Father. Love to Tom. [Footnote: +Tom, his brother in Melbourne.] + +W.J. WILLS. + +I think to live about four or five days. My spirits are excellent. + +. . . + +The remark that I had great claims on the committee was inserted +in the letter, as King informed me, in consequence of Mr. Burke +observing, "Wills, be sure to say something to that effect." The +letter was read to Burke and King by my son, as soon as he had +concluded it. On King's examination, he was questioned as follows, +on this point: + +Question 1068. Do you see that letter--[pointing to the letter +written by Mr. Wills to his father]?--That is the letter Mr. Wills +read. + +1069. Did he read it out for the purpose of being corrected if +there was any statement in it that was not quite correct?--I +believe the reason was, in case the letter should be found, that he +should not say anything to our disadvantage, mine or Mr. Burke's; +he thought that we would see it was the truth and nothing but the +truth.--[Watch produced]--That is the watch Mr. Wills desired the +survivor to give to his father, which I have done. + +1070. There was a pocket-book, was there not?--Yes, which Mr. Burke +gave me on the evening before his death, requesting me to deliver +it to Sir William Stawell, but under any circumstances I was not to +deliver it to any other gentleman of the committee. I delivered it +to Sir William Stawell this morning. + +1071. Did you know anything of the nature of the contents of it? +--No, except what Mr. Burke read to me affecting myself, and which +Sir William Stawell has read to me this morning. The same book I +showed to Mr. Howitt, telling him that it was Mr. Burke's desire +that I should deliver it to Sir William Stawell himself. Mr. Burke +also gave me his watch, and told me it was the property of the +committee; the same I delivered to Mr. Howitt. + +1072. You kept possession of the book?--Yes, and gave it over to +Sir William Stawell this morning. + +1073. How did you preserve all those things while with the blacks? +--I had a small canvas pouch, which I always carried about with me +on my person. + +1074. Did they ever covet anything?--Yes, they used often to make +me show them the contents of it. + +. . . + +The letter and watch being handed to Mr. Burke, my son then lent him +his pistol, the only defence he could have retained against hostile +attack, and lying on the bare ground, resigned to his fate, +urgently requested them to leave him. Imagination, with all the aid +of poetical fancy, can conceive no position to exceed this in utter +desolation. It has been said, and many may think, they ought not to +have separated. No consideration, or argument, should have induced +his two companions to abandon him. It was indeed a trying +alternative, but falling in with the blacks appeared to be the only +chance of rescue for the whole party; and had this fortunately +happened before the sudden and total prostration of Burke, there +can be no doubt they would have hastened immediately to bring the +same succour to my son. King informed me that Mr. Burke was +dreadfully distressed, and that he had great difficulty in +persuading him to go on. At times he would stop and exclaim, "How +can I leave him, that dear, good fellow?" He was usually in the +habit of addressing him as "My dear boy," for although +twenty-seven, and wearing a beard, he had such a youthful +appearance that few would have taken him for more than twenty when +he left Melbourne. + +During the whole journey, and through all their trials, King said +that not an approach to altercation, or a word of difference, ever +took place between my poor boy and his leader. When I claimed the +pistol above alluded to, it was considered of too much consequence +to be surrendered without minute investigation. To my first +application I received the following diplomatic reply: + +EXPLORATION COMMITTEE, + +Royal Society of Victoria, + +Victoria Street, Melbourne, January 28th, 1862. + +SIR, + +I have the honour to inform you that, at a committee meeting held +27th instant, the Honourable Dr. Wilkie in the chair, the subject +of delivering the "Burke" pistol to you, which you claim as your +late son's property, was discussed. The report of the +Assistant-Secretary was to the effect that, as the tradesmen who +supplied the fire-arms did not register the numbers, the identity +of this particular pistol could not be traced as one supplied to +the expedition; but that as there were several "Colt's" revolvers +furnished, there is room for doubt as to whether this may not be +one of them. + +As the committee merely wishes to be fully satisfied of the +validity of your claim before parting with such a melancholy and +interesting relic, instructions have been given to apply to Mr. +King for any information he may be able to supply, to guide the +committee to a right decision. + +I have the honour to be, sir, + +Your most obedient servant, + +JOHN MACADAM, M.D., + +Hon. Secretary. + +W. WILLS, ESQ. M.D. + +. . . + +Finally, and with much trouble, after I know not how many meetings, +and what amount of discussion, the pistol was handed over to me, +and is now in my possession. So much for my claims on the +Committee, who are the only parties acquainted with the merits of +my poor son from whom I have received anything like coldness or +offence. On the day of King's arrival, as the mail was leaving for +England, I was anxious to obtain at once the letter which I knew +was in his possession. My earnestness interrupted an arrangement +they had made for receiving him, and my unseasonable importunity, +as it was considered, drew on me something bearing a close +resemblance to a vote of censure. + +King, who although only a common soldier, has a heart and feelings +which would do no dishonour to a gentleman of education, would have +preferred coming into Melbourne, after the loss of his officers, at +least unostentatiously, if not in sackcloth and ashes. But he was +greeted with a howling and shouting more suitable to the reception +of some notorious bush-ranger recently captured. Many, in common +with myself, considered the ovation out of place and character; +while others, and apparently the more numerous party, were of a +different opinion. Perhaps it was well meant, and chacun a son +gout. Public enthusiasm is not always gaugeable by the standard of +reason or good taste. The following account was printed:-- + +From about five o'clock, groups of persons anxious to welcome +back the first who had crossed and re-crossed the Australian +continent began to pour into the station, and its vicinity was so +crowded with cars and spectators that it was impossible to reach +the entrance. The arrival of the train was hailed with vociferous +cheering. The carriage in which King was a passenger was at once +recognized by its being decorated with flags. Such was the "rush" +to see King that it was some time before the porters could reach +the carriage door, and when they had reached it they experienced +considerable difficulty in getting the door opened. Dr. Gilbee, who +was accompanied by Dr. Macadam, was in attendance with his private +carriage to convey King as quietly as possible to the Royal +Institute, where the Exploration Committee and a numerous +assemblage of ladies and gentlemen were in waiting to see him. +Those gentlemen, however, were unable to reach the carriage; and +Dr. Wills, who was fortunately opposite the door, seeing that it +was impossible for the arrangements to be carried out, immediately +conveyed King to an open car and drove off. Dr. Gillbee and Dr. +Macadam, with King's sister, immediately followed. The cars were +then rushed; and cars, buggies, horses, and pedestrians raced along +Collins Street to William Street, and thence to Government House. A +great many were, of course, disappointed by this alteration, as it +was generally expected that King would be received by His +Excellency and the Committee at the Royal Institute, and therefore +drove along the streets that were likely to facilitate their +reaching the institution before King's arrival. On reaching +Government House, King was assisted up stairs, for though he looked +very healthy and robust; he was scarcely able to stand. He was +taken into the room adjoining the Chief Secretary's office, where +he was shortly afterwards joined by his sister. Their meeting was, +of course, strictly private. In a few minutes the approaches to +Government House, the lobbies, stairs, and landing were impassably +crowded, so that it was necessary for the police to clear a passage +for His Excellency from his own office to that of the Chief +Secretary. His Excellency, accompanied by Captain Timins, entered +the Chief Secretary's office, and after a short conversation with +Welch, who accompanied King to town, went into the anteroom; +accompanied by Captain Timins, and followed by Dr. Wills, Welch, +and Brahe. When His Excellency entered the room, King and his +sister respectfully stood up, but His Excellency requested them to +be seated, as King was evidently unable to stand on his feet. The +excitement was almost too much for the poor fellow, and it was +thought advisable to get him away as speedily and as privately as +possible to St. Kilda, where his sister resides. + +A few days afterwards, at a meeting of the Exploration Committee, a +series of questions, more or less pertinent to the circumstances +under which he appeared before them, were personally put to him by +members of the committee, and which he answered calmly, displaying +considerable intelligence and precision of mind in his replies to +the rather discursive examination he was subjected to. The Herald, +in reference to the interview, had the following observations: +--John King was an object of great and curious interest. Having +come out of such great tribulation--having fasted for so many days +in the desert--having been wasted by privations till he became so +near death that for Death to have overcome him would have been no +triumph--he was regarded with feelings similar to those which made +the people say of Dante, "There goes the man who has been in +Hades." Though only a subordinate, he is a man possessing, we +should say--or, indeed, as we know--good leading qualities, the +attributes of a hero; and though his intellectual powers have not +been highly cultivated, he evidently possesses no small share of +intelligence. A man who would mind his own business, and not given +to ask very many questions, which as things have turned out is to +be regretted; but with a memory capable of retaining everything +that came within his knowledge. His coolness rather took aback +those members of the committee, yesterday, who seemed to have come +loaded to the muzzle with questions, which they proceeded to fire +off indiscriminately. He seemed to know better than those +inquisitors the way in which his examination should be conducted; +that the inquiry had a more important object than gratifying sheer +curiosity; and when he goes before the Royal Commission next +Thursday they will find him a very good witness. The deepest +sympathy was expressed by the meeting, and it will be most +sincerely felt by every soul to whom his extraordinary history will +become known. + +The Exploration Committee held a private meeting on the 29th, at +which King was present. He there stated that the tide rose and fell +six inches at the part of the river where he was left by Messrs. +Burke and Wills when they proceeded on foot with the object of +discovering the sea. The gallantry of King is amply testified to by +some memoranda in the handwriting of poor Burke--the last he ever +wrote. The documents were contained in a pocket-book which the +dying explorer committed to the care of the survivor, charging him +to deliver it into the hands of Sir William Stawell. This last +desire of his unfortunate commander was most scrupulously observed +by King. The manuscript ran as follows:-- + +I hope that we shall be done justice to. We have fulfilled our task, +but we have been abandoned. We have not been followed up as we +expected, and the depot party abandoned their post. + +R. O'HARA BURKE. + +Cooper's Creek, June 26th. + +King has behaved nobly. I hope that he will be properly cared for. +He comes up the creek in accordance with my request. + +R. O'HARA BURKE. + +Cooper's Creek, June 28th. + +Again, the next entry says:-- + +King has behaved nobly. He has stayed with me to the last, +and placed the pistol in my hand, leaving me lying on the surface as +I wished. + +R. O'H. BURKE. + +Cooper's Creek, June 28th. + +. . . + +The following sketch of the journey across the continent +of Australia, by Messrs. Burke and Wills, in a letter from the +Governor of Victoria, Sir Henry Barclay, to Sir Roderick Murchison, +was read before the Royal Geographical Society in London on the +15th of January, 1862, and was ordered to be printed in their +proceedings. The letter also appeared in the Times of the 15th of +January:-- + +MY DEAR SIR RODERICK, + +Knowing the interest you have ever taken in the exploration of +the interior of Australia, and that you still occupy the post of +Vice-President of the Royal Geographical Society, it was my +intention to address you fully by the present mail-steamer +respecting the Victorian expedition under Burke and Wills, which +you will learn has achieved the honour of first crossing from sea +to sea, by a route far distant and utterly distinct from that of +McDouall Stuart, from whose great fame as an explorer I have not +the least desire to detract. + +I wished, indeed, as the expedition had cost the gallant leaders of +it their lives, to narrate in a connected form its design and +history from the very commencement, in order that it might serve +the Geographical Society as a record, and prevent any misconception +of the causes which have marred its triumphant result. + +I find, however, that the pressure of other business will prevent +my carrying out this design, and I must content myself therefore +with forwarding the newspapers which contain the best report of +what has recently come to light, together with the diaries of Burke +and Wills, as published in a pamphlet form, and lastly with a map +of Australia, on which our Surveyor-General has added to other +recent explorations, a reduced tracing of the track of the +expedition, from the depot on Cooper's Creek to the Gulf of +Carpentaria, where it struck, as would appear, the Flinders River, +and not the Albert, as the explorers supposed. + +I would refer you, at the same time, for precise details of the +whole enterprise to my several despatches of 21st of August, 1860; +20th of July, and 20th of November, 1861; which I am confident the +Duke of Newcastle will put at your disposal for the information of +the Geographical Society, if applied to. + +On one account I am not sorry to be obliged to postpone a detailed +communication on the subject, for it would be difficult to tell the +sad story of the sufferings and death of the brave men who returned +to the spot where they expected to find friends and ample store of +provisions and clothing, only to find the depot abandoned, and to +perish miserably in default of assistance, without at least +implying blame in some quarter or other; and, as a good deal is +still enveloped in mystery, and I have appointed a commission of +inquiry to take evidence and report thereupon, it would obviously +be improper in me to anticipate their conclusion. + +The sole survivor of the party who crossed the continent, John +King, once, I believe, a soldier in India, is expected to reach +Melbourne to-night; and with the aid of his recollections of the +journey, the Surveyor-General hopes to be enabled to add to the +chart on a large scale, which he is constructing from Mr. Wills's +field books, fuller particulars as to the nature of the country; as +well as to supply some blanks which were evidently left to be +filled in afterwards, especially in regard to the route back, +which, from the determination at our observatory of one of his +earlier camps, from an observation of one of the planets which is +recorded, seems to have been considerably to the eastward of the +course pursued in going, though this is not expressly so stated. + +I need hardly add that as soon as Mr. Ligar finishes this chart I +will send you copies of it, as also the report of the commission of +inquiry. + +The country towards Carpentaria or Burke's Land--as I hope it will +be called--seems so good that there can be little doubt of the +formation, at no distant date, of a colony on the shores of that +estuary;--a project which you have long, I know, had at heart; and +before we recall the several parties sent out for the relief of the +missing expedition, I trust we shall be able so far to complete the +task as to connect the settled country, by Mr. Howitt's aid, with +Burke's Land by the best possible route; and, by means of the party +sent by sea in the Victoria steamer, to add greatly to our +knowledge of the Gulf, and of the embouchures of the different +rivers falling into it. + +Believe me ever, + +My dear Sir Roderick, + +Yours very truly, + +HENRY BARKLY. + +Government Offices, Melbourne, 25th November, 1861. + +P.S.--After I had finished my letter, I received a memorandum from +the Surveyor-General respecting Mr. Wills's astronomical +observations, which is of so much importance that I enclose it for +your information, not having time to get a copy made. + +H.B. + +. . . + +It has been remarked, with some disposition to draw +uncharitable conclusions therefrom, that no religious expressions, +or any specific references to that all-important subject, are to be +found in the field-books and journals that have been given to the +public. On this point, King said, in reply to Question 1714, "I +wish to state, with regard to there being no particular tokens of +religion recorded in any part of the diaries, that we each had our +Bible and Prayer-book, and occasionally read them going and coming +back; and also the evening before the death of Mr. Burke, I am +happy to say, he prayed to God for forgiveness for the past, and +died happy, a sincere Christian." + +The curtain drops here on the history of the great Victorian +Exploring Expedition, and little more remains to be told of its +results or shortcomings. The continent was crossed, the Gulf +reached, and the road indicated by the hardy pioneers, which their +successors will find it comparatively easy to level and macadamize. +Already the stimulant of the Burke and Wills catastrophe has called +into active exercise the successive expeditions and discoveries of +Howitt, Norman, Walker, Landsborough, and McKinlay. Others will +rapidly follow, with the characteristic energy and perseverance of +the Saxon race. Now that time has, to a certain extent, allayed the +poignant grief of those who are most nearly and dearly interested +in the fate of the original explorers; when first impulses have +cooled down, and the excitement of personal feelings has given way +before unquestionable evidence, we may safely ascribe, as far as +human agencies are concerned, the comparative failure of the +enterprise to the following specific causes:-- + +1. The double mistake on the part of the leader, of dividing +and subdividing his forces at Menindie and Cooper's Creek; + +2. The utter unfitness of Wright for the position in which he was +placed; + +3. The abandonment by Brahe of the depot at Cooper's Creek; + +4. The resolve of the surviving explorers to attempt the route by +Mount Hopeless, on their homeward journey; + +And lastly, to the dilatory inefficiency of the Committee, in not +hurrying forward reliefs without a moment's delay, as the state of +circumstances became gradually known to them. + +It is not so easy to estimate the relative quantity of blame which +ought justly to attach to all who are implicated. Each will +endeavour to convince himself that his own share is light, and that +the weight of the burden should fall on the shoulders of some one +else. Meanwhile, there remain for the heroic men who died in +harness without a murmur in the unflinching exercise of their duty, +an undying name, a public funeral, and a national monument; the +unavailing sympathy and respect which rear an obelisk instead of +bestowing a ribbon or a pension; recorded honours to the +unconscious dead, in place of encouraging rewards to the triumphant +living. A reverse of the picture, had it been permitted, might have +been more agreeable; but the lesson intended to be conveyed, and +the advantages to be derived from studying it, would have been far +less salutary and profitable. + +CHAPTER 14. + +Letters of sympathy and condolence; from Sir Henry Barkly; Major + Egerton Warburton; A.J. Baker, Esquire; P.A. Jennings, Esquire; + Dr. Mueller; The Council of Ballaarat East; Robert Watson, + Esquire; John Lavington Evans, Esquire +Meeting at Totnes. +Resolution to erect a Monument to Mr. Wills. +Proceedings in the Royal Geographical Society of London. +Letter from Sir Roderick Murchison to Dr. Wills. +Dr. Wills's Reply. +The Lost Explorers, a poetical tribute. +Concluding Observations. + +As soon as my son's death became publicly known, and there could no +longer be a doubt on the subject, letters of condolence and +sympathy poured in upon me from many quarters. From these I select +a few as indicating the general impression produced by his untimely +fate, and the estimation in which he was held by those who were +personally acquainted with him. The afflicting event was +communicated to his mother in Totnes, Devon, by a telegram a +fortnight before the regular mail, accompanied by the following +letter from Sir Henry Barkly, Governor of Victoria:-- + +Government Office, Melbourne, November 26th, 1861. + +DEAR MADAM, + +Though you will hear of the bereavement which has befallen you +inthe loss of your gallant son from those that are near and dear +both to you and to himself, I cannot refrain, in the position I +have the honour to hold, from adding my assurance of the sympathy +of the entire community with your grief, and the universal +admiration of his abilities as displayed throughout the expedition, +and which his noble and heroic conduct to the last hour of his life +have inspired. + +You may rely upon it that the name of William John Wills will go +down to posterity, both at home and in this colony, amongst the +brightest of those who have sacrificed their lives for the +advancement of scientific knowledge and the good of their +fellow-creatures. + +Believe me, dear Madam, + +Yours very respectfully, + +(Signed) HENRY BARKLY, + +Governor of Victoria. + +Mrs. Wills, Totnes, Devon. + +. . . + +Sir Henry also moved in the committee and the motion was +carried nemine contradicente, that from the important part Mr. Wills +had taken, the expedition should be called, "The Burke and Wills +exploring Expedition." Some spiteful remarks by opposite partisans +were made in the Melbourne Argus on this very natural and +complimentary resolution. An advocate on one side said, "If the +expedition had failed would it have been called the Burke and Wills +Expedition?--We opine not." To which another replied the following +day, in the same columns, "Would the expedition have succeeded if +Wills had not been there?--We opine not." None would have regretted +these invidious observations more than the generous, free-hearted +Burke, and my gallant son, had they lived to see them. They had no +petty jealousies. Each knew his position, and they acted throughout +with unswerving confidence as friends as well as associated +explorers. + +It was asserted by Burke's enemies that he was violent, and not +having sufficient command over himself, was therefore unfitted to +command others. This conclusion, sound enough in the abstract, is +more easily made than proved, and in the present instance receives +direct contradiction from the undeviating cordiality between the +leader and his second. In the cases of Landells and Dr. Beckler, +universal opinion pronounced Burke to be in the right. + +. . . + +FROM MAJOR EGERTON WARBURTON. + +Adelaide. + +MY DEAR DR. WILLS, + +Vain as must be any consolation that can be offered to you under the +circumstances of almost unparalleled distress attending the loss of +your son, I cannot but avail myself of our acquaintanceship to +express my most humble and hearty sympathy in the terrible +catastrophe. + +Anger and horror combine to drive us away from the contemplation of +the causes of this tragic termination of a feat of heroism and +endurance such as has been rarely before achieved; and we turn with +deep sorrow and admiration to dwell upon that noble display of +faithful, patient courage which calmly awaited an early and +unbefriended grave on the spot where the foot-prints of triumph +were reasonably to have been expected. + +We all share in your grief; and would fain hope that this may +somewhat lessen its bitterness to you; but it must be a source of +pride and comfort to you to remember that your son died having DONE +his duty to his country and his companions. More than this no man +can do, live he ever so long, and few there are who do so much. + +Permit me to subscribe myself a deep sympathiser with you in your +affliction, + +J. EGERTON WARBURTON. + +The Major had been a candidate for the office of leader, but his +conditions as to his second were objected to. The next letter is +from a gentleman who had accompanied Major Warburton as second on +some explorations from Adelaide. At Totnes I knew him when a boy. + +. . . + +Dorset Terrace, Adelaide. + +MY DEAR SIR, + +I truly sympathize with you in the loss you have met with in +so heroic and superb a fellow as your son. I cannot read his +journals without wishing that I had been with him, for his +qualities as an explorer were perfect in my humble opinion. The +news of his sad death has been a great blow to all of us, and we +sincerely feel for you in your affliction. But though dead in the +flesh, the brave spirit of your son will stand emblazoned on the +pages of our country's history as one of those heroes who have died +for the cause in which he was engaged, in the flush of victory, +cheerfully fulfilling his duties to the last. + +I cannot believe that Wright and Brahe ever returned to Cooper's +Creek. If they had done so a stockman so well experienced in +tracking as Wright must be, would have detected the presence of +signs that might escape the eye of one less practised; for it is +ascertained now that the stores had been removed about the time +that Brahe left, and before, as they say, they returned in company. + +I also believe that, had Burke taken his companions' advice, and +followed down Brahe's tracks, they would have been saved, for it is +well known to all travellers that animals will feel cheered in +following the footsteps of their late associates; but to attempt to +force his party to explore new country when a well-known route was +open to him was little short of madness. I have not patience to +criticize Wright and Brahe's conduct. If Brahe had even left more +stores, clothing especially, we should have had the pleasure of +welcoming the explorers home. + +But God's wise providence knows what is best, and in saying, His +will be done, I pray that He may comfort you and yours in this +great bereavement. Mrs. B. and my daughter unite with me in kindest +regards, and believe me to be as ever, + +My dear sir, + +Your sincere friend, + +ARTHUR JOHN BAKER. + +. . . + +FROM P.A. JENNINGS, ESQUIRE, ST. ARNAUD, VICTORIA. + +St. Arnaud, December 15th, 1861. + +MY DEAR SIR, + +I did not like to intrude upon your sorrow before; but I +feel desirous of now testifying the sympathy of myself and friends +at St. Arnaud with you under your heavy affliction. I had the +pleasure of forming an intimacy with your lamented and gallant son +during his stay here; an intimacy which soon ripened into a true +friendship. + +It was in the year 1858, from March to July, that your son stopped +in this vicinity, as the promoter of the survey of this town. I was +thrown much into his company, and soon learned to appreciate his +amiable and noble disposition. My mother and sisters, who also +found pleasure in his society, had the deepest regard and +admiration for him; and the expedition in which he was engaged +therefore possessed an unusual interest for us. + +I assure you I can hardly find words to express our feelings, at +the thought of his fate, and the base desertion of Burke and +himself by those who should have endeavoured to sustain them. I had +the most profound confidence in your son's ability as an explorer, +knowing well the varied nature of his scientific attainments, his +great practical knowledge of bush life, and the clear common sense +which was his leading characteristic. Many a time we have talked +about him; and every time we mentioned his name the same feeling of +assurance in his safe return was always expressed, even to the +last. Such was our confidence in him. A week before the sad tidings +of his death reached Melbourne, I had a conversation with Mr. +Byerly, whom I then met accidentally, and who had just returned +from Queensland. Our conversation reverted to your son, and Mr. +Byerly coincided with me in my faith in him, but remarked that all +his exertions could be of little avail if not properly supported. +Mr. Byerly had at first expressed a fear that the party HAD BEEN +ALLOWED TO PERISH through the remissness of those whose duty it +should have been to use every possible means to rescue them in the +proper time. His words were, unfortunately, prophetic. + +I know, my dear sir, that almost anything like consolation for you +now must come from other than man, but I could not help saying +these few words to you; and I know that no persons unconnected by +blood with your family, and enjoying such brief personal +acquaintance with your son as myself; and mother and sisters, can +be more sincerely or deeply moved at the harrowing record of his +untimely fate. Indeed, it has cast a gloom over every one; and the +hardest heart could not but be affected by such a noble spectacle +as the last days of his glorious life present. + +It is proposed here to erect an obelisk to his memory, and I am +about to get one of the streets named after him. I cannot commit +myself to write further on the subject, but will conclude by +subscribing myself, + +Yours, ever faithfully, + +P.A. JENNINGS. + +W. Wills, Esquire, M.D. + +. . . + +FROM DR. MUELLER. + +December 11th, 1861. + +MY DEAR DOCTOR, + +His Excellency informed me by note last night that Mr. Heales thinks +to leave the consideration of everything connected with the great +and glorious enterprise of your son and Mr. Burke, to the +Commission, which Mr. Heales will probably have installed before +leaving office. + +His Excellency adds, that every thought shall be given, that the +family who immortalized their name by the work of your lamented son +shall not be forgotten. I hope to be in town to-morrow, and will do +myself the pleasure of calling on you. + +Very regardfully yours, + +FERD. MUELLER. + +. . . + +The Melbourne Advertiser, of December the 4th, 1861, contained +the following leading paragraph: + +It is the intention of Mr. O'Shanassy to place a sum of 5000 pounds +on the Estimates towards the erection of a national monument to +Burke and Wills, and it is believed a like amount will be raised by +public subscription in various parts of the colony; so that the +aggregate amount will enable us to raise a memorial worthy of +Victoria, and worthy of the heroes whom we design to honour. This +is as it should be. Burke and Wills achieved a splendid exploit: +their lives were the forfeit of their daring; and we owe it to +their reputation, as well as to our own character, to preserve a +durable record of their great achievement, and to signalize to +after-ages our admiration of its simple grandeur, and our gratitude +to the brave men who accomplished it. A time will come when a belt +of settlements will connect the shores of Port Phillip with those +of the Gulf of Carpentaria; when, on the banks of the Albert or of +the Flinders, a populous city will arise, and will constitute the +entrepot of our commerce with the Indies; and when beaten roads +will traverse the interior, and a line of electric telegraph will +bisect the continent. The happy valley of Prince Rasselas was not +more verdant or more fertile than much of the country passed +through by the explorers, whose loss we deplore; and it is certain +that these beautiful solitudes will be rapidly occupied by the +flocks and herds of the squatter. Agricultural settlements will +follow; towns and villages will be established, gold-fields +probably discovered, and waves of population will overflow and will +fertilize vast tracts of country which we have hitherto concluded +to be a sterile desert. These events will owe their initiation to +the adventurous pioneers who first crossed the continent from sea +to sea. Theirs was the arduous effort; theirs the courage, +endurance, and sustaining hope; theirs the conflict with danger and +the great triumph over difficulties; theirs the agony of a +lingering death, and theirs the mournful glory of a martyr's crown. +Defrauded, as it were, of the honours which would have rewarded +them had they lived to receive the congratulations they had earned, +it becomes the melancholy duty of their fellow-citizens to +perpetuate the memory of Burke and Wills by a monument which shall +testify to their worth and our munificence. + +. . . + +FROM DR. MUELLER. + +Melbourne, December 21st, 1861. + +MY VERY DEAR DOCTOR, + +I need not assure you that I shall be but too happy to render +you any services within my power, and especially such as are +connected with doing justice to your poor and great son. + +Having been duly authorized by you to secure the pistol of your +late son, I will take an early opportunity to claim it for you and +bring it to your son Thomas. I will also very gladly do what I can +in restoring to you any other property I may hear of as belonging +to your lamented son William. As soon as Professor Neumayer +returns, we can learn with exactness what instruments were your +son's. I will also inquire about the telescope. I believe I forgot +mentioning to you, that it would be a source of the highest +gratification to me to call some new plant by the name of the +family, who claim as their own, one of now imperishable fame. But I +will not be unmindful that, in offering an additional tribute, +humble as it is, to your son's memory, it will be necessary to +select, for the Willsia, a plant as noble in the Australian flora +as the young savant himself who sacrificed his life in +accomplishing a great national and never-to-be-forgotten +enterprise. + +Trusting, my dear and highly valued friend, that the greatness of +the deed will, to a certain extent, alleviate your grief and sorrow +for an irreparable loss, and that Providence may spare you long in +health and happiness, for your family. + +I remain, + +Your faithfully attached, + +FERD. MUELLER. + +W. Wills, Esquire, M.D. + +. . . + +Melbourne Botanical Gardens, January 5th, 1862. + +MY DEAR DR. WILLS, + +It affords me a melancholy satisfaction that the humble +tribute which I wish to pay to the memory of your lamented son, in +attaching his name to the enclosed plant, elicited such kind +recognition from yourself. I need not assure you that I shall +continue to maintain, as I have done on all previous occasions, +that only by the skilful guidance and scientific talents of your +unfortunate son, the great geographic success is achieved, which he +sealed with his heroic death. + +We can only now deeply deplore the loss of SUCH a man, and award +that honour to his memory which his great exploit for ever merits. + +With the deepest sympathy for you, ever dear and respected friend, + +Yours, + +FERD. MUELLER. + +The plant is thus registered in the Fragmenta Phytographiae +Australiae:-- + +EREMOPHILA WILLSII: + +Speciem Eremophilae Goodwinii (F. M. Report on the Plants +of Babble’s Expedition, page 17) propinquam tesqua Australiae +centralis ornantem, elegi ut botanicis recordarem gloriam nunquam +obliviscendam intrepidi et ingeniosi sed infelicissimi Gulielmi +Wills, qui primo terram Australiae continentalem a litore ad litus +peragravit, sua morte praecocissima in tacito eremo triumphum +aeternum agens. [Footnote: I have chosen a species of Eremophila +resembling Goodwin's, which adorns the deserts of central +Australia, to record by botany the glory never to be forgotten of +the intrepid and talented, but most unfortunate, William Wills, who +was the first to traverse the continent of Australia from shore to +shore, winning for himself, by his too early death in the silent +wilderness, an eternal triumph.] + +FROM DR. MUELLER. + +June 6th, 1862. + +DEAR DR. WILLS, + +Once more I wish you a most cordial goodbye, and trust that in the +circle of your family you will feel some consolation for the +dreadful bereavement which has befallen you in the loss of your +son. May it alleviate your affliction to some small extent, to +remember that your son has gained by the sacrifice of his precious +life a world-wide fame, and an appreciation which will remain +unobliterated throughout all ages. + +With the deepest solicitude for your health and happiness, I +remain, my very dear Dr. Wills, + +Your attached friend, + +FERD. MUELLER. + +. . . + +At an earlier period, the Municipal Council of Ballaarat East +paid me the compliment of the subjoined address:-- + +TO W. WILLS, ESQUIRE, M.D. + +Council Chamber, Ballaarat East, November 7th, 1861. + +SIR, + +The Municipal Council of Ballaarat East, for itself and on behalf of +the native community of this district, with feelings of the deepest +sorrow and commiseration, beg leave to sympathize with you in the +most severe and irreparable bereavement which you are so +unfortunately called upon to bear in the loss of your worthy and +devoted son, Mr. William John Wills. It would however hope that all +possible consolation will be yours in the knowledge of his having +nobly and successfully accomplished his mission, the benefits of +which cannot be too highly appreciated by the whole of the +inhabitants of the Australian Colonies; and which must secure to +his future memory, under the unfortunate circumstances by which he +was sacrificed, not only honour and fame, but the sympathy, love, +and respect of his fellow-men in all parts of Her Majesty's +dominions, and in every civilized country throughout the world. +These considerations the Council trusts you will endeavour to bring +to your aid in overcoming the intense grief with which you must be +afflicted. + +I am, sir, + +In the most heartfelt sorrow, + +Yours very truly, + +W.B. RODIER, + +TOWN CLERK. + +. . . + +A proclamation in a supplement to one of the Melbourne Gazettes, +towards the end of November, announced that the Governor, with the +advice of the Executive Council, had directed that the portions of +Main-street, Ballaarat East, lying between the Yarrowee River and +Princess Street, shall hereafter be designated Wills Street, in +memory of the companion of Burke. + +The two following letters, written by Devonians settled in +Victoria, appeared in the Totnes Weekly Times:-- + +Batesford, Geelong, 25th November, 1861. + +DEAR SIR, + +I have sent you by this mail the sad history of poor Burke +and Wills, which I am sure will be read with painful interest by all +your fellow-townsmen. The Melbourne papers have been very severe on +the Exploration Committee, and it was my intention to have sent you +copies of the Argus, from 4th to 9th November, but they cannot now +be procured at any price. My brother will lend you his, if you +desire it. + +Nothing that has occurred here for many years has thrown such a +gloom over the whole of the Australian Colonies. We are generally, +perhaps, a cold, unfeeling people, but there are few whose hearts +have not been touched by this sad event. + +It is scarcely possible that you, accustomed as you are to the +green pastures, the shady lanes, and crystal springs of dear old +Devon, can realize to the full extent the sickening hardships they +had to endure, or the cruel disappointment under which even they at +last gave way. I cannot conceive a situation more heartrending than +theirs must have been on their return to Cooper's Creek, to find +the depot abandoned. They had succeeded in accomplishing the +glorious feat which so many brave men had tried in vain to +accomplish; they had endured hardships which might make the +stoutest heart quail; they had returned alive, but footsore, worn +out and in rags, to where they might have hoped for help and +succour; they were on their way to where honour and glory, well and +nobly earned, awaited them; and now they must lie down in the +dreary wilds of an almost unknown country, and die that most +horrible of all deaths, starvation, They must have felt, too, that, +worse than even this death itself, the fruits of their labours +would, in all probability, perish with them, their fate remain +unknown, and the glorious page of the world's history which they +would have written would be buried in oblivion, and all this--ALL +this because + + 'Some one had blundered.' + +It has been decided that the remains are to be brought to Melbourne +and have a public funeral. Monuments are also to be erected to the +memory of the brave fellows:-- + + "These come too late, and almost mock whom they are intended + to honour." + +Poor Wills! you will remember him as a boy. It has occurred to +me that Totnes may wish in some way to perpetuate the memory of one +who perished so young and with such honour in a noble cause. Should +it be so, I have asked my brother to be there with something from +me. Every good man must deeply regret his loss, and sincerely +sympathize with his relatives and friends. + + Your hero has passed to no ignoble grave; + He died not ere a deathless fame was won; + And earth must count amongst her true and brave, + The brave and patient Wills, Devonia's son. + +I am, dear Sir, + +Yours truly, + +ROBT. WATSON. + +To the Editor of the Totnes Times. + +. . . + +TO THE EDITOR OF THE TOTNES WEEKLY TIMES. + +Melbourne, November 26, 1861. + +By this mail, I have sent you the public journals of this city, +containing detailed accounts of the Exploring Expedition, +despatched hence on the 20th August last, to find its way to and +return from the Gulf of Carpentaria. Only one of the party has +succeeded in accomplishing this unparalleled undertaking, three +having fallen victims to hunger and disease. R. O'Hara Burke was +the leader of the Expedition, and W.J. Wills, a native of Totnes, +and son of a physician from your locality, was the second in +command, observer and astronomer. The Expedition had visited the +Gulf, and had returned to Cooper's Creek, where a depot had been +formed, but unfortunately broken up only six hours before the +return of the weary travellers. Their disappointment at finding +such to be the case, you must gather from Wills's journal, which +was the best kept of the party, and is replete with information of +the country through which they passed. To Mr. Wills, senior, the +loss of his favourite son is a sad blow, under such distressing +circumstances; yet, amid all, young Wills was full of spirit to the +last, and his final entry in his journal must have been made just +six hours before he breathed his last. For him and for them, the +colonists in Australia have shed tears of sorrow, and the +Government have given instructions that their remains are to be +brought to the city, and interred with all the pomp and solemnity +befitting such an occasion. A sum of money is voted by Parliament +to mark specially the event by erecting an obelisk in some +conspicuous part of the city, most probably in face of one of our +Parliament Houses. A number of Devonians, however, have resolved to +subscribe, and with the consent of the municipal authorities, wish +to mark the event more especially in his native town; and it is +thought the Plains, at Totnes, is a suitable place for the erection +of such a monument. To that end, subscription lists will be opened +in our principal towns, and by next mail I hope to report that +satisfactory progress is being made. The school where he was +educated (Ashburton), conducted, too, by a Totnes man, Mr. Paige, +has not been forgotten; and as there are schoolfellows of Wills's +in this colony, they also intend bearing testimony to his worth by +placing a tablet, with the consent of the trustees, in the Grammar +School of St. Andrew's. None more worthy exists in that ancient +hall of learning. + +In conclusion, I would just remark that the continent has been +traversed from north to south, but there is yet the important feat +of crossing from east to west. For whom is this wreath reserved? Is +it to be won by a Totnes or an Ashburton man, or one from this +country? Time will decide. + +I remain, + +Yours truly, + +JOHN LAVINGTON EVANS. + +. . . + +A correspondent to the Bendigo Advertiser concluded a long +letter with the subjoined paragraph:-- + +Poor Wills, the martyr, whose history of the journey is all that +is left to us, is deserving of a nation's tears: his youth--his +enduring patience--his evenness of temper, which must have been +sorely tried--his lively disposition even in extremities--his +devotion to his leader--all tend to stamp him as the real +master-mind of the expedition, and as such let Victoria be justly +proud of him--let no false delicacy keep the memory of the noble +youth from the pinnacle it is so justly entitled to. + +. . . + +The Mayor of Totnes, J. Derry, Esquire, in compliance with +a requisition from many of the principal inhabitants, convened a +meeting at the Guildhall on the 31st of January, 1862, which was +most numerously attended. Eloquent speeches were made, extracts +from the letters of Mr. Watson, and Mr. Lavington Evans, were read, +and the following resolutions were unanimously passed: + +1. That this Meeting is of opinion that a Memorial should be +erected in Totnes to the late Mr. William John Wills, who perished +at Cooper's Creek on his homeward journey, after, with three +others, having for the first time successfully crossed the great +Island Continent of Australia. + +Perhaps when the subscriptions were received they would be able to +decide what form the memorial should assume. It had been suggested +that a tablet should be placed in the church, but he, Mr. Cuming, +the mover, rather demurred to this: the church would not be a +conspicuous place for it; and as many would subscribe who did not +attend the parish church, he thought the Plains, or some other +public site, should be chosen, but it would be well to leave this +matter for the present an open question. + +2. That a committee be now formed to solicit subscriptions for the +purpose of carrying into effect the last resolution, and that such +committee consist of the following gentlemen:--The Mayor, Messrs. +Bentall, Kellock, Cuming, Presswell, Heath, Windeatt, Watson, +Michelmore, Condy, Clarke, Ough, Endle; with power to add to their +number. + +3. That as soon as the subscription list is completed, and the +Devonshire men resident in the colony have communicated their +wishes and intentions to the committee, according to the +intimations expressed by them, the committee be requested to call a +meeting of the subscribers to decide on the character of the +memorial to be erected. + +The subscriptions at Totnes have been very liberal, and are still +open. Mr. Watson and his family contributed most liberally. The +Duke of Somerset gave ten pounds. Each of the members, Admiral +Mitchell, and various others five pounds; but the character of the +monument has not yet been decided on. At Ashburton Grammar School a +memorial has been erected, Mr. Lavington Evans and his brother +contributing ten pounds from Australia. + +At the annual meeting of the Royal Geographical Society of London, +held on the 26th of May, 1862, Lord Ashburton awarded the founder's +Gold Medal to the representative of the late Robert O'Hara Burke, +and a gold watch to King. These were handed to his Grace the Duke +of Newcastle, who attended in his public capacity as Secretary of +State for the Colonies, and undertook to deliver them to the +respective parties, with many justly eulogistic observations. Lord +Ashburton read a paper on the progress of geographical science, and +Sir R. Murchison, in the course of a notice on Australia, suggested +that that portion which had been explored by Mr. Burke should be +hereafter called Burke's Land. But it so happened that my son's +name was neither mentioned nor alluded to in the published +proceedings. + +At the first meeting of the Society for the present season, held on +the 10th November, 1862, and at which I was present, Sir Roderick +Murchison introduced the subject of Australian exploration in his +address, in a manner quite unexpected by me. The next day I +received the following official communication, which embodied the +substance of what he had said, and nearly in the same words. + +TO DR. WILLS. + +15, Whitehall Place, 11th November, 1862. + +SIR, + +At the first meeting of the Council of this Society, during this +session, I brought under the consideration of my associates, a +statement of the distinguished botanist, Dr. Mueller, of Victoria, +to the effect that the friends of your deceased son were +dissatisfied on finding that Mr. Burke, the leader of the late +expedition to the Gulf of Carpentaria, had received a gold medal, +and that Mr. King had received a watch, whilst no testimonial of +the services of Mr. Wills had been presented on the part of the +Royal Geographical Society. + +Permit me to assure you that when the award of the gold medal was +made, every member of the Council, as well as myself, who proposed +it, felt that to your son alone was due the determination of all +the geographical points, by his astronomical observations, and that +therefore the honour should be shared between the leader and +himself. + +Continuing to entertain the same sentiments, and regretting that +the rule of the society prevented them from granting more than one +gold medal for an expedition, the Council have authorized me to +offer this explanation to you, in order that it may be preserved as +a memorial. + +As nothing less than a medal could have been adjudicated to so good +a geographer as your lamented son, so I trust that this +explanation, and the words, which fell from me last evening at the +general meeting, in eulogizing his valuable services, may prove +satisfactory. Rely upon it, that his merits will never be forgotten +by my associates and myself. + +I have the honour to be, Sir, + +Your very faithful servant, + +(Signed) RODERICK MURCHISON, + +President of the Royal Geographical Society. + +P.S. This letter shall be printed in the Proceedings of the +Society. + +. . . + +I replied thus:-- + +TO SIR RODERICK MURCHISON, + +President of the Royal Geographical Society. + +27 Arundel Street, Strand, 18th November, 1862. + +SIR, + +It was with much satisfaction that I received your letter of +the 11th instant, acknowledging the appreciation by yourself and the +Council of the Royal Geographical Society, of the merits of my +lamented son in the Burke and Wills Exploring Expedition in +Australia. That he, and he alone, was the only one who had the +least pretension to the title of geographer, is manifest; +--therefore it is not strange that Dr. Mueller and my friends in +Australia should feel somewhat annoyed in the matter of the Medal. + +I am not surprised that it should have so happened under the +circumstances. The motto 'Sic vos non vobis', would be appropriate +for him in memoriam. The clothes, for the want of which he died, so +amply provided by himself, were worn by others; the land discovered +has been called exclusively by another name;--the Gold Medal should +follow. + +Still I am grateful for your well-expressed remarks at the meeting +of the 10th instant, and for this written testimonial of the 11th, +from yourself and the Council. + +I have the honour to be, + +Sir Roderick, + +Your obedient and humble servant, + +WILLIAM WILLS, + +Father of the late Explorer. + +. . . + +Several poetical tributes in honour of the adventurous dead +were published in Victoria. I select one which appeared in the +Melbourne Herald, on the 1st of December, 1861. + + THE LOST EXPLORERS. + + 'Tis but a little lapse of time + Since they passed from out our sight; + Their hearts with hope were buoyant, + And each face with gladness bright; + And many were the fervent prayers + That in safety they might go, + Through a hidden land to the distant strand + Where ocean billows flow. + + Theirs was no gay adventure + In some softly pleasant place: + They left home's quiet sanctitude + To meet a hostile race; + To carve a passage through the land, + That down its channels wide, + With a joyous start might flow a part + Of the restless human tide. + + Across bleak stony deserts, + Through dense scrub and tangled brier, + They passed with hearts undaunted, + And with steps that would not tire; + Through morass and flooding waters, + Undismayed by toil and fears, + At their chief's command, with salient hand, + Fought on the pioneers. + + Battled with cold and famine, + Battled with fiery heat, + Battled o'er rocks till a trail of blood + Was left by their wounded feet; + Battled when death with his icy hand + Struck down the body of Gray;-- + 'Onward!' they said, as they buried the dead, + And went on their gloomy way. + + Now gather round your household hearths, + Your children by your knee; + 'Tis well that they should understand + This tale of misery. + 'Tis well that they should know the names + Of those whose toil is o'er; + Whose coming feet, we shall run to meet + With a welcome NEVER MORE. + + Tell how these modern martyrs, + In the strength and pride of men, + Went out into the wilderness + And came not back again; + How they battled bravely onward, + For a nobler prize than thrones, + And how they lay, in the glaring day, + With the sun to bleach their bones. + + Tell how their poor hearts held them up + Till victory was won; + How with fainting steps they journeyed back, + The great achievement done. + But of their anguish who may know, + Save God, who heard each groan, + When they saw no face at the trysting place, + And found themselves alone! + + Left alone with gaunt starvation, + And its sickly brood of ills, + Stood Burke the sanguine, hopeful King, + And the hero-hearted Wills; + Sad and weary stood the pioneers, + With no hand to give relief, + And so each day winged on its way + As a dark embodied grief. + + Who can guess the depth of agony-- + That no mortal tongue may tell-- + Which each felt when slowly dying + At the brink of hope's dry well! + Deserted, famished garmentless, + No voice of friendship nigh, + With loving care, to breathe a prayer + When they settled down to die. + + Yet God be praised, that one dear life + Was held within His hand, + And saved, the only rescued one + Of that devoted band + Who went into the wilderness, + In the strength and pride of men: + The goal was won and their task was done, + But they came not back again. + + We cannot break their calm, grand sleep, + By fond endearing cries; + We cannot smile them back again, + However bright our eyes; + But we may lowly bend the head, + Though not asham'd of the tears + We sadly shed, for the lowly dead, + Cut down in their bloom of years. + + And laurel garlands, greener + Than war's heroes ever bought + With the blood of slaughtered thousands, + Shall by loving hands be brought; + And sanctified by many prayers, + Laid gently in their grave, + That the coming race may know the place + Where sleep our martyr'd brave. + +--F.M. HUGHAN. + +. . . + +CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. + +The narrative I have felt called upon to give to the public, founded +on an unexaggerated statement of facts, with many of which no other +person could have been so well acquainted, is now concluded,--with +the natural anguish of a father for the loss of a son of whom he +was justly proud, and who fell a victim to incapacity and +negligence not his own. Still, I have no desire to claim merit for +him to which he is not entitled, or to abstract an iota from what +is justly due to others. The Report of the Royal Commission is to +be found at full in the Appendix; unaccompanied necessarily by the +mass of conflicting evidence, trustworthy, contradictory, +misinterpreted or misunderstood, on which it was based. The members +who composed that court were honourable gentlemen, who investigated +patiently, and I have no doubt conscientiously. But there were many +present, with myself, who witnessed the examinations, and wondered +at some points of the verdict. We find the judgment most severe on +the leader who sacrificed his life, and whose mistakes would have +been less serious and fatal had his orders been obeyed. There is +also a disposition to deal leniently with the far heavier errors +and omissions of the Exploration Committee; and an unaccountable +tendency to feel sympathy for Brahe, whose evidence left it +difficult to decide whether stupidity, selfishness, or utter +disregard of truth was his leading deficiency. + +It now only remains to sum up a brief retrospect of the active +spirit of discovery set astir, and not likely to die away, as a +sequel to the great Burke and Wills Expedition, for by that name it +will continue to be known. We have already seen that the Victoria +steamer, under Commander Norman, was sent round to the Gulf of +Carpentaria to search for the missing explorers, had they reached +that part of the coast; and to expedite and assist land parties in +advancing, southwards, to their aid. Captain Norman suffered some +delay by the unfortunate wreck of the Firefly, a trader, laden with +horses, coals, and straw; and having on board Mr. Landsborough and +party, who were to start from the Albert river, or thereabouts. +This wreck occurred on the 4th September, 1861, on one of the group +of islands to the north, called Sir Charles Hardy's Islands. On the +7th, they were found by Commander Norman, and through his great +personal exertions, ably seconded by his officers and crew, he got +the ship off, with the greater part of the horses and coals, and +nearly all the stores. + +On the 1st of October, they reached the mouth of the Albert. On the +14th of the same month, Landsborough started for the head of that +river, as far as it was navigable, in the Firefly, under the +command of Lieutenant Woods of the Victoria; and on the 17th they +were landed about twelve miles up the stream. It was past the +middle of November before Mr. Landsborough resumed his onward +course; and as his explorations had little to do with an endeavour +to discover the tracks of the Victorian Expedition, although he +gained much credit by his exertions, it is unnecessary to detail +them more minutely here. I shall merely say that he followed a +course south by east, skirting the country rather more to the +westward than the track followed by previous explorers, and +eventually reached Victoria. + +Mr. Walker, despatched overland from Queensland, reached the Gulf +on the 7th of December, 1861; and reported that he had, on the 24th +of November, found well-defined traces of three or four camels and +one horse, undoubtedly belonging to the Victorian Expedition, and +making their way down the Flinders. With his usual characteristic, +he started again on the 11th of December. Mr. Walker, with his +party, consisting chiefly of natives, did good service in his +progress through Queensland; for when the report reached Melbourne, +through Captain Norman, that he had discovered the tracks of the +camels so near the sea, it furnished satisfactory evidence of the +correctness of my son's journals, although the fatal news of his +death and that of his commander had been long received. There were +not wanting ungenerous cavillers to insinuate doubts that he and +Burke had been at the Gulf. This inference they sought to establish +from an expression in one of the few of Burke's notes preserved, to +this effect: "28th March.--At the conclusion of report, it would be +well to say that we reached the sea, but we could not obtain a view +of the open ocean, although we made every effort to do so." At the +extreme point they reached, about fifteen miles down the Flinders, +the tide ebbed and flowed regularly, and the water was quite salt. +The very simplicity of Mr. Burke's remark shows that it was made by +a man not given to lying or deceit. Mr. Walker followed the return +tracks for some distance, but lost them at about 20 degrees of +south latitude, and then struck off direct east for the Queensland +district, to inquire, and get further supplies for a new start. At +Rockhampton he received the fatal intelligence which had been sent +round by sea from Melbourne; and also the news of the discovery of +King by the gallant Howitt, to whom all honour is due for his +labours in the cause. + +But Mr. McKinlay, leader of the South Australian Expedition, of +whom I have already spoken more than once, has performed the most +extraordinary exploit of all, and has traversed by far the greatest +quantity of new ground, but not in the direction originally +intended by the government that sent him. Failing in finding the +traces of Burke and his expedition, McKinlay took more to the north +and north-west between the 120 and 140 degrees of eastern +longitude. Yet from some floodings which my son, it will be +remembered, pointed out in his journal as occurring from +indications on trees, McKinlay changed his course to north and by +east until he reached the Gulf of Carpentaria, and then to south +and by east, and crossed to Queensland, returning from Rockhampton +to Adelaide by water. A glance at the map will show the courses of +these respective explorers sufficiently for general purposes. Thus +Queensland, by some mysterious influences in its favour, has reaped +the whole benefit of these explorations at the least apparent cost. +The land discovered by the Burke and Wills Expedition, now named +Burke's Land, has been handed over to Queensland by the Home +Government, up to Cape York, on the extreme north, in Torres +Straits. This vast continent, west of 140 degrees, in which the +South Australian, and West Australian governments have so much +interest, is, with the exception of Stuart's Line, quite +unexplored. + +It has been a subject of congratulation by some, that the +misadventures, or more properly speaking, the gross errors +connected with the Victorian Expedition, have led to results that +amply compensate for the loss sustained. It is truly painful to +hear, and not very easy for those who are deeply interested, to +believe this; and I think the majority of all readers will consider +that these losses might have been easily avoided. + +The relatives of the sacrificed explorers have to mourn their fate, +and the colony of Victoria has spent large sums of money, not for +her own benefit, immediate or indirect, present or prospective. +She, too, may exclaim "Sic vos non vobis." Lucky Queensland derives +the benefit; her boundaries are extended to 140 degrees of east +longitude. A great part of this country, formerly supposed to be of +a doubtful nature, is now known to be the finest land in the +Australias, capable of producing cereals, wines, and tropical +fruits; also a vast extent of ground fitted for the growth of +cotton. A source of unbounded wealth is thus opened to that +fortunate young colony: coals had previously been discovered there. +She is also better supplied with timber and forests than the more +southern districts. Victoria, with her capital, Melbourne, will +have to wait for the extension of railways, marking her position as +the centre of commerce, and will in time reap her well-merited +reward. Melbourne will always represent the metropolis of the +various colonies of Australia. + +South Australia, so happy in her abundant produce of corn, wine, +and mineral ores of copper and iron, is a most desirable colony, +but a great portion of her interior being yet unexplored, her full +capabilities cannot at present be estimated. There is no man more +likely than John McKinlay, with his robust frame, his energy and +activity, to carry out this great object, if the opportunity is +supplied to him. + +The Australias altogether comprise a country capable of conferring +happiness upon countless thousands of the Saxon race. Everything is +to be found, if the right people only are selected. Let them +comprise youth, vigorous health, temperate habits, persevering +industry, and morals based on sound Christianity, and their success +and advancement in life is as certain as anything can be pronounced +in this world of uncertainty. + +While these pages are going through the press, the last mail from +Melbourne informs us that Mr. Howitt was expected to arrive in that +capital towards the middle of December, 1862, with the remains of +Messrs. Burke and Wills. Arrangements are being made for a public +interment of the most imposing character. If numbers can add to the +effect, they are not likely to be wanting. Circulars have been +officially addressed to nearly 250 public bodies and societies +throughout the colony, inviting the different members to join in +the ceremony. Replies have been received from by far the greater +portion, stating their willingness and desire to join in this last +testimony of respect for the lamented explorers. The monument, for +which 5000 pounds has been voted by Government, is to be erected in +the Reserve surrounding the Parliament House. + + + +APPENDICES. + +APPENDIX A. + +INSTRUCTIONS TO LEADER. + +Exploration Committee, Royal Society of Victoria, Melbourne, 18th +August, 1860. + +SIR, + +I am directed by the Committee to convey to you the instructions +and views which have been adopted in connection with the duties +which devolve upon you as Leader of the party now organized to +explore the interior of Australia. + +The Committee having decided on Cooper's Creek, of Sturt's, as the +basis of your operations, request that you will proceed thither, +form a depot of provisions and stores, and make arrangements for +keeping open a communication in your rear to the Darling, if in +your opinion advisable; and thence to Melbourne, so that you may be +enabled to keep the Committee informed of your movements, and +receive in return the assistance in stores and advice of which you +may stand in need. Should you find that a better communication can +be made by way of the South Australian Police Station, near Mount +Serle, you will avail yourself of that means of writing to the +Committee. + +In your route to Cooper's Creek, you will avail yourself of any +opportunity that may present itself for examining and reporting on +the character of the country east and west of the Darling. + +You will make arrangements for carrying the stores to a point +opposite Mount McPherson, which seems to the Committee to be the +best point of departure from this river for Cooper's Creek; and +while the main body of the party is proceeding to that point you +may have further opportunities of examining the country on either +side of your route. + +In your further progress from Mount McPherson towards Cooper's +Creek, the Committee also desires that you should make further +detours to the right and left with the same object. + +The object of the Committee in directing you to Cooper's Creek, is, +that you should explore the country intervening between it and +Leichhardt's track, south of the Gulf of Carpentaria, avoiding, as +far as practicable, Sturt's route on the west, and Gregory's, down +the Victoria, on the east. + +To this object the Committee wishes you to devote your energies in +the first instance; but should you determine the impracticability +of this route you are desired to turn westward into the country +recently discovered by Stuart, and connect his farthest point +northward with Gregory's farthest Southern Exploration in 1856 +(Mount Wilson). + +In proceeding from Cooper's Creek to Stuart's Country, you may find +the Salt Marshes an obstacle to the progress of the camels; if so, +it is supposed you will be able to avoid these marshes by turning +to the northward as far as Eyre's Creek, where there is permanent +water, and going then westward to Stuart's Farthest. + +Should you, however, fail in connecting the two points of Stuart's +and Gregory's Farthest, or should you ascertain that this space has +been already traversed, you are requested if possible to connect +your explorations with those of the younger Gregory, in the +vicinity of Mount Gould, and thence you might proceed to Sharks' +Bay, or down the River Murchison, to the settlements in Western +Australia. + +This country would afford the means of recruiting the strength of +your party, and you might, after a delay of five or six months, be +enabled, with the knowledge of the country you shall have +previously acquired, to return by a more direct route through South +Australia to Melbourne. + +If you should, however, have been successful in connecting Stuart's +with Gregory's farthest point in 1856 (Mount Wilson), and your +party should be equal to the task, you would probably find it +possible from thence to reach the country discovered by the younger +Gregory. + +The Committee is fully aware of the difficulty of the country you +are called on to traverse; and in giving you these instructions has +placed these routes before you more as an indication of what it has +been deemed desirable to have accomplished than as indicating any +exact course for you to pursue. + +The Committee considers you will find a better and a safer guide in +the natural features of the country through which you will have to +pass. For all useful and practical purposes it will be better for +you and the object of future settlement that you should follow the +watercourses and the country yielding herbage, than pursue any +route which the Committee might be able to sketch out from an +imperfect map of Australia. + +The Committee intrusts you with the largest discretion as regards +the forming of depots, and your movements generally, but request +that you will mark your routes as permanently as possible, by +leaving records, sowing seeds, building cairns, and marking trees +at as many points as possible, consistently with your various other +duties. + +With reference to financial subjects, you will be furnished with a +letter of authority to give orders on the Treasurer for the payment +of any stores or their transport, cattle, sheep, or horses you may +require; and you will not fail to furnish the Treasurer from time +to time with detailed accounts of the articles for which you have +given such orders in payment. + +Each person of the party will be allowed to give authority for half +of his salary being paid into any bank, or to any person he may +appoint to receive the same; provided a certificate is forwarded +from you to the effect that he has efficiently discharged his duty. + +The Committee requests that you will make arrangements for an exact +account being taken of the stores and their expenditure by the +person you place in charge of them. + +The Committee also requests that you would address all your +communications on subjects connected with the exploration to the +Honorary Secretary; and that all persons acting with you should +forward their communications on the same subject through you. + +You will cause full reports to be furnished by your officers on any +subject of interest, and forward them to Melbourne as often as may +be practicable without retarding the progress of the expedition. + +The Committee has caused the inclosed set of instructions to be +drawn up, having relation to each department of science; and you +are requested to hand each of the gentlemen a copy of the part more +particularly relating to his department. + +I have the honour to be, Sir, + +Your most obedient servant, + +(Signed) JOHN MACADAM, M.D., + +Honorary Secretary, E.C., R.S.V. + +Robert O'Hara Burke, Esquire. + +Leader, Victorian Exploring Expedition. + +. . . + +APPENDIX B. + +VICTORIA: By the Grace of God, of the United Kingdom of +Great Britain and Ireland Queen, Defender of the Faith. + +To our trusty and well-beloved The Honourable SIR THOMAS SIMSON +PRATT, K.C.B., The Honourable SIR FRANCIS MURPHY, Speaker of our +Legislative Assembly, The Honourable MATTHEW HERVEY, M.P., The +Honourable JAMES FORESTER SULLIVAN, M.P., and EVELYN PITFIELD +SHIRLEY STURT, Esquire, all of Melbourne, in the Colony of +Victoria, GREETING. + +WHEREAS the Governor of our Colony of Victoria, with the advice of +the Executive Council thereof, has deemed it expedient that a +Commission should forthwith issue for the purpose of inquiring into +all the circumstances connected with the sufferings and death of +ROBERT O'HARA BURKE and WILLIAM JOHN WILLS, the Victorian +Explorers: and WHEREAS it is desirable to ascertain the true causes +of this lamentable result of the Expedition to the said ROBERT +O'HARA BURKE and his companions; and especially to investigate the +circumstances under which the depot at Cooper's Creek was abandoned +by WILLIAM BRAHE and his party on the twenty-first day of April +last; and to determine upon whom rests the grave responsibility of +there not having been a sufficient supply of provisions and +clothing secured for the recruiting of the Explorers on their +return, and for their support until they could reach the +settlements; and generally to inquire into the organization and +conduct of the Expedition: also, with regard to the claims upon the +Colony of the surviving members thereof, and of the relatives (if +any) of the deceased members: NOW KNOW YE that we, reposing great +trust and confidence in your integrity, knowledge, and ability, +have authorized and appointed, and by these presents do authorize +and appoint you, SIR THOMAS SIMSON PRATT, SIR FRANCIS MURPHY, +MATTHEW HERVEY, JAMES FORESTER SULLIVAN, and EVELYN PITFIELD +SHIRLEY STURT, to be Commissioners for the purpose aforesaid: and +for the better effecting the purpose of this Commission, we do give +and grant you power and authority to call before you such persons +as you shall judge likely to afford you any information upon the +subject of this Commission: and to inquire of and concerning the +premises by all other lawful means and ways whatsoever: and this +Commission shall continue in full force and virtue; and you the +said Commissioners may, from time to time, and at every place or +places, proceed in the execution thereof, and of every matter or +thing therein contained, although the inquiry be not regularly +continued from time to time by adjournment: and lastly, that you do +report, as occasion may require, for the information of our +Governor of our said Colony, under your hands and seals, all +matters and things elicited by you during the inquiry under this +Commission. + +SEAL OF THE COLONY OF VICTORIA. + +WITNESS our trusty and well-beloved SIR HENRY BARKLY, Knight +Commander of the Most Noble Order of the Bath, Captain-General, and +Governor-in-Chief of our Colony of Victoria, and Vice-Admiral of +the same, at Melbourne, this twelfth day of November, One thousand +eight hundred and sixty-one, and in the twenty-fifth year of our +Reign. + +HENRY BARKLY. + +By His Excellency's command, + +(Signed) R. HEALES. + +. . . + +APPENDIX C. + +TO HIS EXCELLENCY SIR HENRY BARKLY, KNIGHT COMMANDER OF THE +MOST HONOURABLE ORDER OF THE BATH, CAPTAIN-GENERAL AND +GOVERNOR-IN-CHIEF OF THE COLONY OF VICTORIA, AND VICE-ADMIRAL OF +THE SAME, ETC., ETC. + +MAY IT PLEASE YOUR EXCELLENCY:-- + +In conformity with the terms of Her Majesty's commission, we +have made inquiry into the circumstances connected with the +sufferings and death of Robert O'Hara Burke and William John Wills, +the Victorian explorers. + +We have endeavoured to ascertain the true causes of this lamentable +result of the expedition, and have investigated the circumstances +under which the depot at Cooper's Creek was abandoned by Mr. +William Brahe. We have sought to determine upon whom rests the +grave responsibility of there not having been a sufficient supply +of provisions and clothing secured for the recruiting of the +explorers on their return, and for their support until they could +reach the settlements; and we have generally inquired into the +organization and conduct of the expedition. + +Our investigations have been confined to the above matters, the +Government having already taken into consideration the claims on +the colony of the surviving members of the expedition, etc. + +We have examined all persons willing to give evidence who +professed, or whom we supposed to possess, knowledge upon the +various subjects of our inquiries: and we now, after mature +consideration, submit to your Excellency the following Report:-- + +The expedition, having been provided and equipped in the most +ample and liberal manner, and having reached Menindie, on the +Darling, without experiencing any difficulties, was most +injudiciously divided at that point by Mr. Burke. + +It was an error of judgment on the part of Mr. Burke to appoint Mr. +Wright to an important command in the expedition, without a +previous personal knowledge of him; although, doubtless, a pressing +urgency had arisen for the appointment, from the sudden +resignations of Mr. Landells and Dr. Beckler. + +Mr. Burke evinced a far greater amount of zeal than prudence in +finally departing from Cooper's Creek before the depot party had +arrived from Menindie, and without having secured communication +with the settled districts as he had been instructed to do; and, in +undertaking so extended a journey with an insufficient supply of +provisions, Mr. Burke was forced into the necessity of over-taxing +the powers of his party, whose continuous and unremitting exertions +resulted in the destruction of his animals, and the prostration of +himself and his companions from fatigue and severe privation. + +The conduct of Mr. Wright appears to have been reprehensible in the +highest degree. It is clear that Mr. Burke, on parting with him at +Torowoto, relied on receiving his immediate and zealous support; +and it seems extremely improbable that Mr. Wright could have +misconstrued the intentions of his leader so far, as to suppose +that he ever calculated for a moment on his remaining for any +length of time on the Darling. Mr. Wright has failed to give any +satisfactory explanation of the causes of his delay; and to that +delay are mainly attributable the whole of the disasters of the +expedition, with the exception of the death of Gray. The grave +responsibility of not having left a larger supply of provisions, +together with some clothing, in the cache, at Cooper's Creek, rests +with Mr. Wright. Even had he been unable to convey stores to +Cooper's Creek, he might have left them elsewhere, leaving notice +at the depot of his having done so. + +The Exploration Committee, in overlooking the importance of the +contents of Mr. Burke's despatch from Torowoto, and in not urging +Mr. Wright's departure from the Darling, committed errors of a +serious nature. A means of knowledge of the delay of the party at +Menindie was in the possession of the Committee, not indeed by +direct communication to that effect, but through the receipt of +letters from Drs. Becker and Beckler at various dates up to the end +of November,--without, however, awakening the Committee to a sense +of the vital importance of Mr. Burke's request in that despatch +that he should "be soon followed up,"--or to a consideration of the +disastrous consequences which would be likely to result, and did +unfortunately result, from the fatal inactivity and idling of Mr. +Wright and his party on the Darling. + +The conduct of Mr. Brahe in retiring from his position at the depot +before he was rejoined by his commander, or relieved from the +Darling, may be deserving of considerable censure; but we are of +opinion that a responsibility far beyond his expectations devolved +upon him; and it must be borne in mind that, with the assurance of +his leader, and his own conviction, he might each day expect to be +relieved by Mr. Wright, he still held his post for four months and +five days, and that only when pressed by the appeals of a comrade +sickening even to death, as was subsequently proved, his powers of +endurance gave way, and he retired from the position which could +alone afford succour to the weary explorers should they return by +that route. His decision was most unfortunate; but we believe he +acted from a conscientious desire to discharge his duty, and we are +confident that the painful reflection that twenty-four hours' +further perseverance, would have made him the rescuer of the +explorers, and gained for himself the praise and approbation of +all, must be of itself an agonizing thought, without the addition +of censure he might feel himself undeserving of. + +It does not appear that Mr. Burke kept any regular journal, or that +he gave written instructions to his officers. Had he performed +these essential portions of the duties of a leader, many of the +calamities of the expedition might have been averted, and little or +no room would have been left for doubt in judging the conduct of +those subordinates who pleaded unsatisfactory and contradictory +verbal orders and statements. + +We cannot too deeply deplore the lamentable result of an +expedition, undertaken at so great a cost to the colony; but, while +we regret the absence of a systematic plan of operations on the +part of the leader, we desire to express our admiration of his +gallantry and daring, as well as of the fidelity of his brave +coadjutor, Mr. Wills, and their more fortunate and enduring +associate, Mr. King; and we would record our feelings of deep +sympathy with the deplorable sufferings and untimely deaths of Mr. +Burke and his fallen comrades. + +T.S. PRATT, CHAIRMAN, + +MATTHEW HERVEY, + +E.P.S. STURT, + +FRANCIS MURPHY, + +J.F. SULLIVAN. + + + + + +THE END. + + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Successful Exploration Through the +Interior of Australia, by William John Wills + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SUCCESSFUL EXPLORATION *** + +This file should be named sccxp10.txt or sccxp10.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, sccxp11.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, sccxp10a.txt + +Produced by Sue Asscher. asschers@bigpond.com + Robert Prince rkp277@msn.com + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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