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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Successful Exploration Through the Interior
+of Australia, by William John Wills
+
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+Title: Successful Exploration Through the Interior of Australia
+
+Author: William John Wills
+
+Release Date: June, 2004 [EBook #5816]
+[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule]
+[This file was first posted on September 6, 2002]
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+Edition: 10
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SUCCESSFUL EXPLORATION ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Sue Asscher. asschers@bigpond.com
+            Robert Prince rkp277@msn.com
+
+
+
+
+
+SUCCESSFUL EXPLORATION
+
+THROUGH THE INTERIOR OF
+
+AUSTRALIA,
+
+FROM MELBOURNE TO THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA.
+
+FROM THE JOURNALS AND LETTERS OF
+
+WILLIAM JOHN WILLS.
+
+EDITED BY HIS FATHER, WILLIAM WILLS.
+
+LONDON:
+RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
+PUBLISHER IN ORDINARY TO HER MAJESTY.
+1863.
+
+DEDICATED,
+
+BY PERMISSION,
+
+TO HIS GRACE
+
+THE DUKE OF NEWCASTLE, K.G.,
+ETC., ETC., ETC.
+
+BY HIS GRACE'S
+
+FAITHFUL SERVANT,
+
+WILLIAM WILLS.
+JANUARY, 1863.
+
+PREFACE.
+
+A life terminating before it had reached its meridian, can scarcely
+be expected to furnish materials for an extended biography. But the
+important position held by my late son, as second in command in
+what is now so well-known as the Burke and Wills Exploring
+Expedition across the Island Continent of Australia; the
+complicated duties he undertook as Astronomer, Topographer,
+Journalist, and Surveyor; the persevering skill with which he
+discharged them, suggesting and regulating the march of the party
+through a waste of eighteen hundred miles, previously untrodden by
+European feet; his courage, patience, and heroic death; his
+self-denial in desiring to be left alone in the desert with
+scarcely a hope of rescue, that his companions might find a chance
+for themselves;--these claims on public attention demand that his
+name should be handed down to posterity in something more than a
+mere obituary record, or an official acknowledgment of services.
+
+A truthful, though brief, memoir of my son's short career, may
+furnish a stimulating example, by showing how much can be
+accomplished in a few years, when habits of prudence and industry
+have been acquired in early youth. He fell a victim to errors not
+originating with himself; but he resigned his life without a
+murmur, having devoted it to science and his country. His death,
+with the circumstances attending it, furnishes an application of
+the lines of a favourite poet, which he often quoted with
+admiration:
+
+    Lives of great men all remind us
+    We can make our lives sublime,
+    And departing leave behind us
+    Footsteps on the sands of time;
+    Footprints that perhaps another,
+    Sailing o'er Life's solemn main,
+    A forlorn and shipwreck'd brother,
+    Seeing, shall take heart again.
+
+The following pages are the only tribute a fond and mourning father
+can offer to the memory of one who, while living, merited and
+reciprocated his warmest affections.
+
+WILLIAM WILLS.
+
+London, January, 1863.
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+CHAPTER 1.
+BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH.
+
+Birth.--Infancy.--Boyhood and Early Education.--Youthful Traits of
+Character.
+
+CHAPTER 2.
+
+My two Sons leave England for Australia.--Incidents of the Voyage.
+--Extracts from Journal.--Arrival at Port Phillip.--Melbourne.
+--Employed as Shepherds in the Interior.--Mode of Life.--Melbourne
+in 1853.--Advice to Immigrants.--Descriptive Letters from the Bush.
+
+CHAPTER 3.
+
+I arrive in Australia.--Join my two Sons at their Sheep-station.
+--Return to Melbourne and Remove to Ballaarat.--Visit to Mr. Skene.
+--My son studies Surveying.--His Rapid Proficiency.--Appointed to
+take Charge of a Party.--Letters on various Subjects to his Mother
+and Brother at Home.
+
+CHAPTER 4.
+
+My Son is appointed to the Magnetic Observatory at Melbourne, under
+Professor Neumayer.--His Rapid Advance in the Study of Magnetism
+and Mineralogy.--Letters to his Relatives at Home, descriptive of
+his Pursuits, Wishes, and Sentiments.--First suggestions of his
+Probable Employment on the Exploring Expedition.
+
+CHAPTER 5.
+
+Postponement of the Exploring Expedition projected at the beginning
+of 1860.--My Son's Letter to his Sister on going into Society.--Mr.
+Birnie's Opinion of him, and Extract from his Lecture.--Letter from
+William to his Mother on Religious Views and Definitions of Faith.
+--His last Communications to his family at Home, before the
+Departure of the Expedition.
+
+CHAPTER 6.
+THE EXPEDITION.
+
+How the Expedition originated.--Appointment of the Leader,
+Officers, and Party.--Mr. Robert O'Hara Burke, Mr. G.J. Landells,
+Mr. W.J. Wills, Dr. Herman Beckler, Dr. Ludwig Becker, etc.--The
+Expedition starts from Melbourne on the 20th of August, 1860.
+--Progress to Swan Hill.--Discharge of Mr. Ferguson, the Foreman.
+--Advance to Menindie.--Resignation of Mr. Landells and Dr. Herman
+Beckler.--Mr. Wills promoted to second in command, and Mr. Wright
+to third.
+
+CHAPTER 7.
+
+From Menindie on the Darling to Torowoto.--Mr. Burke's Despatch,
+and Mr. Wills's Report from Torowoto.--Mr. Wright's unaccountable
+delay at Menindie.--The Expedition proceeds onwards to Cooper's
+Creek.--Exploring Trips in that neighbourhood.--Loss of three
+Camels.--Mr. Wills's Letter to his Sister, December 6th and 15th.
+--Incorrectness of McDonough's Statements.
+
+CHAPTER 8.
+
+Mr. Wills's Survey of the line of Country pursued by the
+Expedition, from Torowoto Swamp to Cooper's Creek.
+
+CHAPTER 9.
+
+Departure from Cooper's Creek for the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+--Arrangements for the continuance of the Depot at Cooper's Creek.
+--Mr. Brahe left in Charge.--Determination of Route.--Progress and
+Incidents.--Mr. Wills's Field Books, from the 16th of December,
+1860, to the 30th of January, 1861, 1 to 9.--Shores of Carpentaria.
+
+CHAPTER 10.
+
+Return from Carpentaria to Cooper's Creek.--Mr. Wills's Journals
+from February 19th to April 21st, 1861.--Illness and Death of Gray.
+--The Survivors arrive at Cooper's Creek Depot and find it
+deserted.--A Small Stock of Provisions left.--Conduct of Brahe.
+--Report of the Royal Commission.
+
+CHAPTER 11.
+
+Proceedings in Melbourne.--Meeting of the Exploration Committee.
+--Tardy Resolutions.--Departure of Mr. Howitt.--Patriotic Effort of
+Mr. Orkney.--South Australian Expedition under Mr. McKinlay.--News
+of White Men and Camels having been seen by Natives in the
+Interior.--Certain Intelligence of the Fate of the Explorers
+reaches Melbourne.
+
+CHAPTER 12.
+
+The attempt to reach South Australia and Adelaide by Mount
+Hopeless.--Mistake of selecting that Route.--Mr. Wills's Journals
+from the 23rd of April to the 29th of June, 1861.--Adventures with
+the Natives.--Discovery of Nardoo as a Substitute for Food.--Mr.
+Burke and King go in search of Natives for assistance.--Mr. Wills
+left alone in the Desert.--The Last Entry in his Journal.
+
+CHAPTER 13.
+
+King's Narrative.--Mr. Burke and King again go in search of the
+Natives, as a last resource.--Death of Mr. Burke.--King returns and
+finds Mr. Wills dead in the Gunyah.--He falls in with the Natives
+and wanders about with them until delivered by Mr. Howitt's party.
+--Extract from Mr. Howitt's Diary.--Extract from Mr. McKinlay's
+Diary.--My Son's last Letter to me, dated June 27th, 1861.--Strong
+Attachment between Mr. Burke and my Son.--King delivers the Letter
+and Watch intrusted to him.--With some difficulty I recover the
+Pistol.--King's Reception in Melbourne.--Sir H. Barkly's Letter to
+Sir Roderick Murchison.--Summary of Events and their Causes.
+
+CHAPTER 14.
+
+Letters of sympathy and condolence; from Sir Henry Barkly; Major
+Egerton Warburton; A.J. Baker, Esquire; P.A. Jennings, Esquire; Dr.
+Mueller; The Council of Ballaarat East; Robert Watson, Esquire;
+John Lavington Evans, Esquire--Meeting at Totnes.--Resolution to
+erect a Monument to Mr. Wills.--Proceedings in the Royal
+Geographical Society of London.--Letter from Sir Roderick Murchison
+to Dr. Wills.--Dr. Wills's Reply.--'The Lost Explorers,' a poetical
+tribute.--Concluding Observations.
+
+APPENDICES.
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS:
+
+1. THE LAST HOURS OF MR. WILLS.
+
+Painted by Scott. Melbourne. London: Richard Bentley, 1863.
+Engraved by J. Saddle.
+
+2. WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+Painted by Scott. Melbourne. Engraved by J. Brown.
+
+BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH.
+
+CHAPTER 1.
+
+Birth.
+Infancy.
+Boyhood and Early Education.
+Youthful Traits of Character.
+
+William John Wills was born at Totnes, in Devonshire, on the 5th of
+January, 1834. He had, therefore, attained the full age of
+twenty-seven at the time of his death. Even in infancy, his
+countenance was interesting and expressive. He began to speak and
+walk alone before he had completed his first year. His lively
+disposition gave ample employment to his nurses, though I cannot
+remember that he ever worried one, through peevishness or a
+fractious temper. As soon as he could talk distinctly, he evinced
+an aptitude to name things after his own fancy; and I may fairly
+say, that he was never a child in the common acceptation of the
+term, as he gave early indications of diligence and discretion
+scarcely compatible with the helplessness and simplicity of such
+tender years. About the time of his completing his third year, Mr.
+Benthall, a friend and near neighbour, asked permission to take him
+for a walk in his garden. The boy was then in the habit of
+attending a school for little children, close by, kept by an old
+lady. In less than an hour, Mr. Benthall returned to ask if he had
+come home. No one had seen him, and we began to be alarmed lest he
+might have fallen into a well in the garden; but this apprehension
+was speedily ascertained to be groundless. Still he returned not,
+and our alarm increased, until his mother thought of the school,
+and there he was found, book in hand, intent on his lesson. He knew
+it was the school hour, and while Mr. Benthall was speaking to the
+gardener, had managed to give him the slip, passing our own door
+and proceeding alone to the school, on the opposite side of the
+square. Mr. Benthall, who can have seen or heard very little of him
+since, was one of the first, on hearing of his recent fate, to send
+a subscription to his monument, about to be erected at Totnes.
+Perhaps he remembered the incident.
+
+Another anecdote of the child bears upon a leading characteristic
+in the after life of the man. My late lamented brother, W.T. Wills,
+who has since died at Belleville, in Upper Canada, was on a visit
+at my house from abroad. He had occasion to go to Plymouth and
+Devonport, and I engaged to drive him over in a gig. A petition was
+made to his mother, that little Willy might accompany us. It was
+granted, and we put up for the night at the Royal Hotel, at
+Devonport, where he became quite a lion. The landlady and servants
+were much taken by their juvenile visitor. The next morning, my
+brother and I had arranged to breakfast at ten, each having early
+business of his own to attend to, in different directions. When we
+returned at the appointed time, the boy was missing. None of the
+household had seen him for an hour. Each supposed that someone else
+had taken charge of him. After a twenty minutes' search in all
+directions by the whole establishment, he was discovered at the
+window of a nautical instrument maker's shop, eight or ten doors
+below the inn, on the same side of the street, within the recess of
+the door-way, gazing in riveted attention on the attractive display
+before him. The owner told me that he had noticed him for more than
+an hour in the same place, examining the instruments with the eye
+of a connoisseur, as if he understood them. His thirst for
+knowledge had superseded his appetite for breakfast. About twelve
+months subsequent to this date, we had nearly lost him for ever, in
+a severe attack of remittent fever. At the end of a fortnight, the
+danger passed away and he was restored to us. As he lay in complete
+prostration from the consequent weakness, our old and faithful
+servant, Anne Winter, who seldom left him, became fearful that his
+intellects might be affected; and I shall never forget her
+heartfelt delight and thankfulness when she saw him notice and
+laugh at the ludicrous incident of a neighbour's tame magpie
+hopping upon his bed. The effect of this fever was to alter the
+contour of his features permanently, to a longer shape, giving him
+a more striking resemblance to his mother's family than to mine.
+His utterance, also, which had been voluble, became slow and
+slightly hesitating.
+
+For some time after this he resided at home, under my own tuition.
+Our intercourse, even at this early age, was that of friendly
+companionship. Instructing him was no task; his natural diligence
+relieved me from all trouble in fixing his attention. We were both
+fond of history. From what I recollect, he took more interest in
+that of Rome than of Greece or England. Virgil and Pope were his
+favourite poets. He was very earnest with his mother in studying
+the principles of the Christian religion. More than once my wife
+remarked, "that boy astonishes me by the shrewdness with which he
+puts questions on different points of doctrine." In his readings
+with me he was never satisfied with bare statements unaccompanied
+by reasons. He was always for arguing the matter before taking
+either side. One question, when very young, he would again and
+again recur to, as a matter on which the truth should be elicited.
+This was a saying of our old servant, above named, when she broke
+either glass or earthenware: that "it was good for trade." His
+ideas of political economy would not permit him to allow that this
+axiom was a sound one for the benefit of the state; and on this
+point, I think, Adam Smith and Malthus would scarcely disagree.
+
+The pleasure I enjoyed in my son's society when a boy, was greater
+than that which intercourse with many grown men contributed; for I
+may strictly repeat, as I have already said, that he was never a
+child in intellect although juvenile enough in habits and manners.
+He never made foolish remarks, although not in the slightest degree
+uncomfortably precocious or pragmatical. I had no fear of trusting
+him with anything, and was often reproved for allowing so young a
+child to handle a gun, which he was accustomed to do as early as
+eleven years of age. His first practice was on some young rooks
+which he brought down with unerring aim, from a rookery on the
+grounds at our country residence. He was so particular in his
+general demeanour that I designated him Gentleman John, and my
+Royal Boy. His brothers, all younger than himself, styled him, Old
+Jack, and Gentleman Jack. He had a wonderful power of attaching
+animals of all kinds. Nothing moved him to anger so readily as
+seeing one ill-used. Beating a horse savagely would excite his
+disgust, as well as his dislike to the person who did it. Not
+having a dog, he used to take a fine cat we had, which would
+accompany him to any distance in the fields, and hunt the hedges
+and hedgerows for him. Never feeling that I could have too much of
+his company, I frequently made him my companion in long country
+walks, during which he incessantly asked for information. For the
+science of astronomy he evinced an early taste. When a very little
+boy, I began to teach him the names and positions of the principal
+constellations, the revolutions of the earth on its axis, and the
+fixity of the polar star. I believe we were the first to notice a
+comet in 1845, which was only a short time visible here, having a
+south declination, and which we afterwards knew to have been a fine
+object in the Southern hemisphere.
+
+At the age of eleven he went to school at Ashburton. Although the
+distance was not more than six miles from the cottage of Ipplepen,
+my then general place of residence, it was with much reluctance
+that I consented to the separation. Several friends urged on me
+that I was not doing him justice by keeping him at home; that a
+public seminary where he could mix with other boys was an
+advantage, even though he might not learn more. It also happened
+that, at this time, a gentleman with whom I had been long
+acquainted, and of whose talents I held a high opinion, was elected
+to the head-mastership of that school, which held its chief
+endowments from Gifford, the satiric poet, and Dr. Ireland, the
+late Dean of Westminster. I remember how I returned in gloomy
+spirits after leaving him there. As I had four other children, it
+may be said that I showed undue partiality for this one, but my
+conscience clears me from the charge. I deeply felt the loss of his
+companionship. He was so suggestive that he set me thinking; and
+whilst I was endeavouring to teach, I acquired more knowledge than
+I imparted. There was nothing remarkable in his progress at school.
+I experienced no disappointment because he did not return home at
+the end of every half-year with the head prize. He merely brought
+his six months' bill, and a letter commending his steady diligence
+and uniform propriety of conduct. In viva voce examinations he had
+scarcely an equal chance with one of inferior intellect who might
+be quicker in expression; for besides the trifling hesitation of
+speech I have already noticed, he would have been ashamed to give a
+wrong answer from eagerness. A remark of Mr. Page, his tutor,
+confirmed me in my own previous impression on this point. "It vexes
+me," he said, "that John does not take a top prize, for I see by
+his countenance that he understands as much, if not more, than any
+boy in my school; yet from want of readiness in answering he allows
+very inferior lads to win the tickets from him." On the whole, I
+think he derived much benefit from Ashburton; for besides his
+scholastic improvement he became an adept at the usual games, and a
+social favourite out of school hours.
+
+At the age of sixteen he left the grammar-school, and I find the
+30th of May, 1850, to be the date of his articles to me as surgeon.
+I had at that time taken a partner, Henry Manly, Esquire, now
+resident at Ipplepen, with a view of introducing and resigning to
+him my Ipplepen practice. Being in a country place, five miles from
+Totnes, where there was no chemist or dispensary, my son readily
+acquired his duties, which were to distribute the medicines and
+appliances directed for our patients by my partner and myself. In
+all cases his caution was extreme and we had no fear of his making
+mistakes. The ordinary operations of extracting a tooth or
+breathing a vein when a bumpkin presented himself as a patient, he
+speedily mastered. The absurd practice of going to be bled on any
+occasion that might strike the fancy of the party, without the
+advice of the doctor, was not at that time so completely obsolete
+as in this advanced age I hope it is, and ought to be. I remember,
+during the time of my own articles, that I frequently performed
+venesection five or six times in a day on persons who requested and
+fancied they required it; and I seldom indulged in the liberty of
+asking, wherefore.
+
+In 1851, I took my son to London to show him the Great Exhibition.
+His chief attractions there, were the instruments and mechanical
+inventions. If, after a day or two, I chanced to deviate from the
+leading thoroughfares and missed my way, he would set me right in a
+moment. This was rather mortifying to one who fancied himself well
+acquainted with London from frequent visits, but he smiled when he
+saw I was not a true guide. I asked him how he acquired this apt
+knowledge. "On the second day," he replied, "when you were out, I
+took the map and studied it for two hours, so that now I am well
+versed in it." My subsequent experience made me think he had some
+instinctive power in matters like these, such as horses and
+carrier-pigeons possess, for the darkest night never baulked him.
+On a visit to Windsor, being told that it was considered a feat to
+climb the statue of King George the Third at the end of the long
+walk, he accomplished it in a very short time. At Hampton Court he
+unravelled the mystery of the Maze in ten minutes and grew quite
+familiar with all its ins and outs.
+
+In the following spring, 1852, I took him again to London, at the
+opening of the session for medical students. As there was no
+anatomical class he studied that branch of science by visiting the
+museum at Guy's. Having myself been a student at that school, I
+introduced him to my late respected teacher, Charles Aston King,
+Esquire, through whom he obtained permission to attend. Surgical
+operations he witnessed at the theatres of any hospital on the
+regular days. The only class he entered was that of practical
+chemistry, under Dr. John Stenhouse, LL.D., at Bartholomew's. When
+the course had nearly terminated, I saw Dr. Stenhouse, and inquired
+whether my son evinced any particular talent in that line. Dr.
+Stenhouse came from the lecture-room, and walked with me through
+Newgate-Street into Cheapside, earnestly requesting me not to take
+from him one of the most promising pupils he had ever had. "I
+venture an assurance," he said, "that in two years, in practical
+chemistry, he will be second to few in England." Dr. Stenhouse at
+that time was engaged in analyzing the different articles of food
+sold in the shops, and found my son useful and suggestive. His
+testimonial ran thus:--
+
+I have much pleasure in certifying that Mr. W.J. Wills attended
+a course of practical chemistry at this medical school during the
+summer season of 1852. He obtained considerable proficiency, and
+invariably distinguished himself by great propriety of conduct.
+
+(Signed) JOHN STENHOUSE LL.D., Lecturer to the Medical School of
+St. Bartholomew's Hospital,
+
+September 1st, 1852.
+
+At the house where he lodged, kept by an old couple and their
+servant, he was as one of themselves, and amused them greatly by
+the discoveries he made of the tricks practised by vendors of goods
+in the street; tricks they had no idea of, although they had lived
+in London all their lives. They used to say he would be a great
+genius in the detective department of the Police.
+
+CHAPTER 2.
+
+My two sons leave England for Australia.
+Incidents of the Voyage.
+Extracts from Journal.
+Arrival at Port Phillip.
+Melbourne.
+Employed as Shepherds in the Interior.
+Mode of Life.
+Melbourne in 1853.
+Advice to Immigrants.
+Descriptive Letters from the Bush.
+
+DURING the summer of 1852, I formed the intention of joining the
+exodus, then pouring out from England to Australia. I had been in
+treaty with the "Melbourne Gold Mining Company," recently started,
+in which promising speculation, on paper, I held some shares. The
+late Earl of Devon was chairman. I was to go in the Sarah Sands, in
+my professional capacity. My two sons, William John, and his
+younger brother, were to accompany me; but on further investigation
+of the modus operandi, I gave up all idea of attaching myself to
+the scheme, sold my shares at a slight discount, and engaged as
+medical attendant on the passengers, taking my two sons with me, in
+a fine new ship, the Ballaarat, on her first voyage. This
+arrangement I considered final. But a few days after William
+returned home, he came to me when I was sitting alone, engaged in
+writing, and with that expression in his countenance so peculiarly
+his own, said; "My dear father, I have a favour to ask of you." "My
+dear boy," I replied, "there is nothing you would venture to ask
+that I could possibly refuse." "Then," continued he, "it is this. I
+see my mother is grieving, although she says nothing, at our all
+leaving her together. Let Tom and I go alone: I will pledge myself
+to take care of him." After a consultation with my wife this new
+plan was agreed upon. I released myself from my engagement with
+Messrs. Simpkin and Marshall for the Ballaarat, and secured two
+berths for the boys in one of Mr. W.S. Lindsay's ships, which at
+that time were conveying living freights to Melbourne, their
+Channel port of departure being Dartmouth.
+
+By the advice of Mr. Lindsay himself I took steerage passages for
+them. He shrewdly remarked, "They will be there as soon and as
+safely as the cabin-passengers, and their money will be saved."
+This sounded so like an axiom in practical economy that my dear boy
+never attempted to argue the question. Having obtained permission
+to knock two cabins into one, my sons considerably diminished their
+expenses, and had quite as agreeable a voyage as if they had paid
+sixty guineas each; for I have lately learned by experience, in a
+homeward passage, that you have to put up with companions in the
+cabin, as objectionable as can be imagined in almost any situation
+of life.
+
+At Dartmouth, a day or two before the ship started, I found that
+William had expended some money on a quantity of stuff rolled up
+like balls of black ropeyarn. I exclaimed with astonishment, "In
+the name of goodness, are you going to chew or smoke all the way to
+Australia?" for the commodity was the good old pig-tail tobacco. He
+said, smiling, "This is to make friends with the sailors: I intend
+to learn something about a ship by the time we reach our
+destination." I dare say the worthy skipper of the good ship Janet
+Mitchell, should he be still alive, has some recollection of him.
+His mode of proceeding, as he told me, was first to secure the good
+graces of the crew through the persuasive medium of the pig-tail;
+then, to learn the name and use of every rope, and of every part of
+the ship's tackle from stem to stern. He soon acquired the art of
+splicing and reefing, and was amongst the first to go aloft in a
+storm, and to lend a hand in taking in topsails. When I arrived in
+Melbourne at a later period, several of his fellow-passengers spoke
+to me with praise and wonder, referring to his activity, and
+readiness to leave an unfinished meal, on the slightest indication
+of danger or difficulty. His journal of this voyage, is now before
+me, from which I extract a few remarks:--
+
+1852. October 1st.--Left Dartmouth--Slightly sick for the first
+few days--My brother much more so, but got right again--Foretopmast
+carried away by a squall, just at the crosstrees, bringing down
+with it the main top-gallant mast--'We look a precious wreck!
+'--Remember the Honourable Michael de Courcy, brother of Lord
+Kingsale, saying to me on the quay at Dartmouth, the day before we
+sailed, that the first gale would carry away the fore-top-gallant
+mast--I believe the Janet Mitchell is quite a new ship, on her
+first voyage--The remark speaks well for the judgment of a young
+officer.
+
+19th.--Sailors prigged some spirits in the hold and got very
+drunk--A passenger so drunk that he became mad, and was put in
+irons.
+
+20th.--Sailors not yet recovered from their drunkenness--A naval
+captain, passenger on board, insulted by one of them; struck him
+with his fist and cut his face open.
+
+22nd.--Fine weather--Getting hot--Latitude north 21, longitude west
+36--The Great Bear getting low--Sunsets and risings very fine,
+particularly the former.
+
+November 1st.--Shark taken, of which I had a large share and rather
+enjoyed the novelty of the feed.
+
+5th.--Crossed the Line--Sailors shaved and ducked a good many--Tom
+and I got off very well. (Query--effects of the pig-tail?)
+
+16th.--Stormy weather--Obtained some books on navigation and
+studied trigonometry.
+
+20th and 21st.--Passed Tristan da Cunha, Inaccessible and
+Nightingale Islands, about 37 south latitude, 12 longitude west.
+--Saw a great many whales, mostly sperm, thousands of birds,
+albatross, Cape pigeon, and many others, the names of which I am
+ignorant of.
+
+23rd.--A shoal of porpoises passed us. A sailor struck one with a
+harpoon, but it got off again. They are of a salmon colour, no more
+like pigs than horses, just the shape of salmon, only much larger.
+In swimming they turn on their sides.
+
+December 1st.--Smart breeze this morning which soon increased to a
+gale--Assisted in furling top-gallant sail--sailors only half
+dressed--After breakfast, had to double reef top-sails and
+main-sail. I like reefing very much.
+
+2nd.--Waves not so high as I expected. It is amusing to see how the
+birds ride them.
+
+27th.--Saw an eclipse of the moon last night, which lasted three
+hours; little more than three quarters were eclipsed--Some of the
+passengers discontented with the provisions--wonder that some of
+them ever thought of leaving home.
+
+1853. January 1st.--Saw land this morning--Reached Cape Otway in
+the afternoon; much the appearance of Berry Head, with a slight
+haze on it--Coast to the west very like that about
+Dartmouth--Cliffs, high; could fancy I saw Rock Vale. [Footnote:
+The residence of a gentleman, near Dartmouth, with whom he had been
+on a visit a short time before his departure.]
+
+3rd.--Dropped anchor--Captain and Doctor going ashore will post my
+journal and our letters.
+
+. . .
+
+His own was short:--
+
+Port Phillip, January 3rd, 1853.
+
+MY DEAR FATHER,
+
+We have this morning dropped anchor, just off Williamstown.
+There are a fine set of ships here: amongst them are the Great
+Britain, Cleopatra, Ballaarat, Aberfoil, and an immense number of
+others, great and small. The Great Britain leaves early to-morrow,
+so I cannot finish my letter. We have been ninety-five days on our
+passage. The Cleopatra has only arrived two days. There are a great
+many vessels coming in. The day before yesterday we overtook and
+passed the Jane, and Truth, of London, which left Plymouth a
+fortnight before we sailed from Dartmouth. I hear already that
+things are very dear in Melbourne. Our pilot says he gives 200
+pounds a year for a small four-roomed cottage, two miles from the
+town.
+
+. . .
+
+To show how well prepared the young adventurer was for life in
+Australia,--notwithstanding letters of introduction and means of
+obtaining money if required--after remaining only a few days in
+Melbourne, and disbursing but a small modicum of the limited supply
+of cash he had taken with him, anxious to see the interior of the
+Island Continent, he obtained employment for himself and brother, a
+lad only fifteen years of age, at a large sheep station two hundred
+miles up the country. The following letter, dated February 12th,
+1853, describes their proceedings to that date:--
+
+MY DEAR FATHER,
+
+We are at Deniliquin. And where in the world is that? you will say.
+Well; it is about two hundred miles north from Melbourne, on the
+Edward River, in the New South Wales district, and nearly five
+hundred miles from Sydney. The station belongs to the Royal Bank
+Company. We have engaged as shepherds at 30 pounds per annum each,
+and rations. We are very comfortable, in a hut by ourselves, about
+four miles from the station. We have between thirteen and fourteen
+hundred rams, by far the smallest and easiest flock, under our
+charge. We take the hut-keeping and shepherding in turns. The hut
+is a very nice one, built of split wood, and roofed with bark. It
+is close beside a pleasant creek or river, where there are plenty
+of fish and ducks. I assure you we make ourselves quite snug here.
+One of us rises almost as soon as it is light, gets some breakfast,
+and starts off with the sheep; lets them feed about until ten
+o'clock, then brings them slowly home, where they lie down until
+four; after that, they go out again until sunset. The other stays
+within to clean up the hut and prepare the meals. We can kill a
+sheep when we like. [Footnote: Not the rams. There were a few
+others kept for the purpose. I stayed a few days with them, when I
+went out myself, at the end of the year.] The worst part serves for
+the dogs, of which we have three--a sheep dog, and two kangaroo
+dogs. [Footnote: They had a horse when I visited them, but not, I
+conclude, at the time when this letter was written.] The latter are
+good, and keep off the native curs at night. The sheep dog was the
+only one the former owner had last year, to watch a flock of five
+thousand sheep.
+
+But you will want to hear something of Melbourne and how we came
+here. The first discovery we made after we got into port was, that
+we had to take ourselves and things ashore at our own expense.
+There was a good deal of fuss made about it to no purpose. It was
+four shillings each by steamer to Melbourne, and thirty shillings
+per ton for goods. It cost us about 2 pounds altogether. At
+Melbourne we found everything very dear; no lodgings to be had,
+every place full. At length we were offered lodgings at sixty
+shillings a week, to be paid in advance, and twenty-five persons
+sleeping in the same room; but we preferred the Immigrant's Home, a
+government affair, just fitted up for the accommodation of
+new-comers, where you pay one shilling a night, and find yourself.
+You must not stay more than ten days. We got there on Friday and
+remained until the Saturday week following. We then obtained this
+situation, and started on the same afternoon. Twenty-three of us
+came up together. Drays were provided to carry our luggage, but we
+ourselves had to walk. We were three weeks on the journey, through
+the bush, sleeping, of course, in the open air.
+
+. . .
+
+He then proceeds to describe Melbourne, as it then was:--
+
+Melbourne is situated, as you know, on the Yarra Yarra, [Footnote:
+A native term, which means "always running."], which has not nearly
+so large a bed as the Dart, although more navigable. It is narrow
+but very deep, and so far resembles a canal rather than a river.
+The town, or city, as they call it, is situated low, but laid out
+on a good scale. The streets are very wide, and I think when filled
+with houses it will be a fine place; but what spoils the appearance
+now is, the number of wooden buildings they are throwing up, as
+they cannot get workmen for others. When we were there, butter was
+from two shillings and fourpence to three shillings per pound,
+bread fourpence, milk eightpence per pint, vegetables enormous,
+butcher's meat and sugar, as at home. Fruit very dear; a shilling
+would not purchase as much as a penny in England. Beer and porter,
+one shilling per pint in Melbourne, but from two shillings to two
+and sixpence here. The town of Melbourne is all on one side of the
+river, but on the opposite bank is Canvas Town, connected with
+Melbourne by a good bridge of one arch. Canvas Town takes its name
+from being entirely composed of tents, except a few wooden
+erections, such as a public-house, and the Immigrant's Home, where
+we had lodged. I do not like Melbourne in its present state. You
+are not safe out after sundown, and in a short time you will not be
+safe during the day. There were some men taken out of the river
+drowned, suspected to have been murdered, and several attempts at
+robbery, while we were there. I sold my box of chemicals, after
+taking out what I wanted, for 4 pounds, and the soda-water
+apparatus for 2 pounds 5 shillings. I also sold some books that we
+could not carry, but got nothing for them. Scientific works do not
+take. The people who buy everything here are the gold-diggers, and
+they want story books. A person I know brought out 100 pounds worth
+of more serious reading, and sold the lot for 16 pounds.
+
+We started from Melbourne on a Saturday, with the drays, eight
+bullocks to each, laden entirely with the luggage of the party,
+twenty-three in number. We made only five or six miles that
+afternoon, and slept under some gum trees. Our clothes were nearly
+saturated with dew; but as we advanced farther inland, the dews
+decreased, and in a night or two there was no sign of them. The
+land for a few miles is dry and sandy, but improves as you proceed.
+The woods extensive, sometimes without interval for two or three
+days' march. There was no scarcity of water, except for the first
+fifteen miles, after leaving Melbourne. We enjoyed the journey
+much, and shot many birds, which constituted our principal food.
+Ducks abound in the creeks, [Footnote: Watercourses, running in
+flood time, but partially dry in dry seasons.] and up this way
+there are fine white cockatoos, which are good eating, and about
+the size of a small fowl. There is also a bird very plentiful here
+which they call a magpie. It is somewhat the colour of our magpie,
+but larger, and without the long tail; easily shot and eatable, and
+feeds, I believe, much like our wood-pigeons. [Footnote: It feeds
+more on insects.] The pigeon here is a beautiful bird, of a
+delicate bronze colour, tinged with pink about the neck, and the
+wings marked with green and purple. They are tame, and nicer eating
+than those at home. Where we are, we have abundance of food; plenty
+of mutton, and we can get a duck, pigeon, or cockatoo whenever we
+like, almost without going out of sight of our hut, besides a good
+supply of fish in the river; Murray cod, which in the Murray are
+said sometimes to weigh eighty pounds, but in our creeks generally
+run from two to twelve; also a kind of mussel, and a fish like a
+lobster, not quite so large, but good eating. [Footnote: Crawfish;
+the river lobster.]
+
+Everyone who comes out does a very foolish thing in bringing such a
+quantity of clothes that he never wants. All you require, even in
+Melbourne, is a blue shirt, a pair of duck trousers, a straw hat or
+wide-awake, and what they call a jumper here. It is a kind of
+outside shirt, made of plaid, or anything you please, reaching just
+below the hips, and fastened round the waist with a belt. It would
+be a very nice dress for Charley. [Footnote: His youngest brother,
+at home.] I should wear it myself if I were in England. It ought to
+be made with a good-sized collar, and open at the breast, like a
+waistcoat, only to button at the neck, if required. We brought out
+the wrong sort of straw hat, as they are only fit for summer, but
+we sold all but two. One I made six shillings of, but the
+cabbage-tree hat is worth a pound. No one should bring out more
+than he can carry on his back, except it be to sell. Boots and
+shoes are at a great price, but they should be thick and strong.
+Wages are very high for butchers, carpenters, and bakers. A
+butcher's boy can get 3 pounds a week, with board and lodging.
+Bullock-drivers get the same. Innkeepers are making fortunes. I
+know a public-house, not larger than the Two Mile Oak, [Footnote: A
+small public-house between Totnes and Newton.] that cleared 500
+pounds in three months, so it was reported. Sydney, I hear, is as
+cheap to live in as London. As to the diggings, I cannot say much
+about them. I have seen many who have made money there, and many
+who have lost it again. It is generally spent as fast as it is got.
+I hope we shall send you some specimens of gold dust soon. Please
+to give my love to my mother and all at home.
+
+From your affectionate and dutiful son,
+
+W.J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+His subsequent letters were of the same kind, descriptive of
+his management in his shepherd's life in the bush. He tells how he
+converted legs of mutton into excellent hams by pickling and
+smoking them; and how he also obtained preserves of melons, by
+sowing seeds which produced abundantly. The flies and ants were
+their greatest torment, particularly the former. The heat was not
+great, as there was a constant breeze from one quarter or another.
+Deniliquin is in between 35 and 36 degrees south latitude. The
+trees are almost exclusively gum trees, but they differ in
+appearance and leaves, according to age and locality. This gives
+the appearance of variety, when, in fact, there is none. The wood
+is hard and splits easily. The bark is tough and thick, and can be
+converted into canoes by closing the ends of a piece taken from
+half the circumference of a tree, and tying a cord round the centre
+to keep it from spreading. The colour is of a beautiful red. A
+moisture sometimes exudes from the leaves in such abundance as to
+convey the idea of an animal having been slain under the branches.
+It has the smell of carraways and is agreeably sweet. "How it would
+delight Bessy and Hannah," (his young sisters, then quite
+children), he says, "to go into the woods, picking up comfits under
+the trees!"
+
+He then speaks of the blacks in that district; of their habits and
+ideas; but expresses a low opinion of their intellectual powers,
+and thinks little can be done with them. In May, he wrote to his
+mother and myself conjointly, fearing his former communications
+might not have reached us, and briefly recapitulating their
+purport. I afterwards heard at Deniliquin that he had successfully
+performed a surgical operation. A shearer had run the point of his
+shears into the neck of a sheep, and opened the carotid artery. My
+son having a small pocket case of instruments, secured the vessel
+and saved the animal. I remember when it was considered a triumph
+in practice to effect this on a human subject. The letter I am now
+alluding to concludes by hoping that we were all as comfortable at
+home as he and his brother were in the bush. He never tired of
+expatiating on the beauties of Australia and its climate. His next,
+in August, gave a more extended account of local peculiarities and
+features. Deniliquin is at this time (1862) a place of considerable
+importance, with a thriving population. The island on which my sons
+shepherded their rams is formed by two branches of the Edward
+River, which is itself a branch of the Murray.
+
+CHAPTER 3.
+
+I arrive in Australia.
+Join my two Sons at their Sheep-station.
+Return to Melbourne and Remove to Ballaarat.
+Visit to Mr. Skene.
+My son studies Surveying.
+His rapid proficiency.
+Appointed to take charge of a Party.
+Letters on various Subjects to his Mother and Brother at Home.
+
+IN the month of August, 1853, I reached Melbourne, after a good
+voyage, having obtained an appointment as superintending surgeon of
+a government emigrant ship, commanded by Captain Young, a perfect
+sailor, and a gentleman I shall always remember with pleasurable
+feelings. More than two months elapsed before I could discover
+where my sons were. Having, at length, ascertained their locality,
+I purchased a horse and performed the journey in four days, resting
+one day on the road, at the station of Mr. Jefferies, on the
+Campaspe. I started at daylight, and made my fifty miles before
+halting, as I generally did about two P.M. I arrived at the
+shepherds' hut at five o'clock on a beautiful summer's evening,
+having remained two hours at the hotel at Deniliquin to refresh.
+
+Robberies on the road--stickings up as they are called--were rife
+at this period. Thefts also were common at the resting-houses. A
+gentleman who arrived at this hotel, not long before I was there,
+took the saddle off his horse, and placed it under the verandah:
+when he returned, after leading his animal to a paddock hard by, he
+missed the saddle, which he supposed had been removed by some
+person belonging to the house, and threw down his bridle on the
+same place. After taking something to drink with the landlord he
+said, "You have got my saddle."--" No." "I left it under the
+verandah, where I have just placed my bridle." On going out to show
+the spot, the bridle also had disappeared: both stolen. A good
+saddle and bridle at that time would fetch twenty pounds readily.
+
+At the station I took a native black for my guide. He brought me to
+a place where my horse had nearly to swim across the creek, pointed
+to a dry path, exclaimed, "There," then turned his own animal and
+rode off. I followed the track for about three miles, and found
+myself in front of the hut. My sons were both at home. Tom called
+the attention of his brother to my approach. They appeared as much
+astonished as he describes the blacks near the Gulf of Carpentaria
+to have been at sight of himself and companions. Presently came the
+recognition, a shout of joy, and a greeting such as may readily be
+imagined, on the part of two boys on seeing the father they had not
+long before supposed to be separated from them by some sixteen
+thousand miles.
+
+A few days after, we all left Deniliquin, each mounted on a horse,
+my sons having first disinterred their money, buried at the foot of
+a gum tree on a hillock which they considered as a safe bank of
+deposit. It was their intention to have made a present of the
+greatest part, 100 pounds, to their mother, on the first eligible
+opportunity of forwarding it. On our way back we paid a visit to
+the Bendigo diggings. William here evinced his skill as an explorer
+by leading us, with the aid of his compass, through a trackless
+bush, by which we saved a circuit of several miles. At Matthison's
+hotel, on the Campaspe river, where we halted for the night, an
+amusing conversation occurred. In the evening there was a great
+gathering of all nations in the parlour. I undertook to tell the
+different parties of English, by their dialect, from what
+particular quarter they came. A person present, who articulated
+with much difficulty from having nearly lost the roof of his mouth,
+declared that he would defy any one to identify him by his speech.
+We all agreed that it exceeded our powers, when he informed us with
+a great effort that he was "a Kashman," meaning Scotchman.
+
+On our return to Melbourne, we made preparations for a removal to
+Ballaarat. William remained with me at the latter place for twelve
+months, attending to any patient that might come in my absence. He
+also opened a gold office adjoining my tent and did very well. Here
+he perfected a plan of his own for weighing specimens containing
+quartz and gold, in water, so as to find the quantity of each
+component. But he was ever pining for the bush. The "busy haunts of
+men" had no attraction for him. He preferred the society of a few
+to that of many, but the study of nature was his passion. His love
+was fixed on animals, plants, and the starry firmament. With regard
+to medicine, he used to say that it was not clear and defined in
+practice. He wanted to measure the scope of a disease, and to
+supply the remedies by mathematical rule. He saw, too, that medical
+men were less valued for their real worth than for their tact in
+winning confidence through the credulity of the public. This was
+particularly exemplified in a gold-field, where the greatest
+impostors obtained credit for a time. His thoughts and conversation
+also constantly reverted to the interior, and to the hope that he
+would one day undertake the journey to the Gulf of Carpentaria. He
+was anxiously looking out for a movement in that direction, then
+often talked of.
+
+About this period he made a pedestrian excursion to the Wannon, to
+sojourn for a short time with a Mr. Skene, a most worthy gentleman,
+now no more. He was actively employed at that place, and wrote to
+me frequently, describing the family, to which he was much
+attached, the whimsicalities of his landlord--a thorough old
+Scotian, who amused himself by waking the echoes of the wilderness
+with the bagpipes,--the noble fern trees and the fine black
+cockatoos. He also continued his practice in surgery, but I believe
+he made no charge, as, not being duly licensed, he considered he
+had no right to do so. He returned to Ballaarat in consequence of a
+communication through me, from an American gentleman named
+Catherwood. On receipt of my letter he lost not an hour, shouldered
+his swag (blankets, kit, etc.), took leave of Mr. Skene and family,
+and walked to Ballaarat, sleeping one night in the bush, by the
+way. On the 22nd of April, 1855, he wrote thus to his mother:
+
+MY DEAR MOTHER,
+
+I had the pleasure of receiving a letter from you a fortnight
+since. I was at Moora Moora then, as you will see by a letter I
+wrote just before I came down here, in the hope of joining a party
+that is spoken of as about to explore the interior of the country,
+which you appear to have such a dread of. It seems uncertain
+whether they will go at all. As to what you say about people being
+starved to death in the bush, no doubt it would be rather
+disagreeable. But when you talk of being killed in battle, I am
+almost ashamed to read it. If every one had such ideas we should
+have no one going to sea for fear of being drowned; no travellers
+by railway for fear the engine should burst; and all would live in
+the open air for fear of the houses falling in. I wish you would
+read Coombe's Constitution of Man. As regards some remarks of yours
+on people's religious opinions, it is a subject on which so many
+differ, that I am inclined to Pope's conclusion who says:--
+
+    For modes of faith let graceless zealots fight;
+    His can't be wrong whose life is in the right;
+
+and I think we cannot have a better guide to our actions than
+
+   'to do unto others as we would be done by.'
+
+Ever your affectionate son,
+
+W.J. WILLS.
+
+P.S. If I go, I will write again before starting.
+
+. . .
+
+The expedition he here speaks of turned out a mere venture to obtain
+cash, and nothing came of it. He remained but a short time at
+Ballaarat, and never idle. In a month he completed a wooden
+addition to my residence, building the sides, and shingling the
+roof in a most workmanlike manner. It was perfectly weatherproof,
+and stood good for some years, being only taken down when an
+alteration in the line of the street rendered its removal
+necessary. He now wished to study surveying. My acquaintance with
+Mr. Taylor, district surveyor at Ballaarat, obtained for him an
+admission as an amateur into his office. He there set to work with
+his characteristic industry to perfect himself in trigonometry and
+Euclid; drawing and mapping in the office by day, and working hard
+in his own room by night. On rising from bed in the morning, I have
+found him sitting as I had left him, working out his point, for he
+never deserted anything he had once taken up until he mastered it.
+At the expiration of a few months, Mr. Taylor promised me to
+introduce him to a gentleman in the survey department named Byerly,
+with a view to reciprocal services. On the 20th of August, 1856, he
+speaks for himself in a letter to his mother from Glendaruel:
+
+MY DEAR MOTHER,
+
+I have at length found time to write to you. You will no doubt
+expect a long letter after so much delay, but I am afraid you will
+be disappointed, as long letters are not my forte. In your last,
+you asked me to send Bessy any information I could. I can assure
+you I shall be most happy to do so, and to encourage her taste for
+knowledge as much as lies in my power. I send her Bonwick's
+Geography of Australia, which is a very useful little book, and in
+most instances correct.
+
+You must not look upon it as infallible. For instance, he says Lake
+Burrambeet is in the Pyrenees, whereas it is more than twenty miles
+from those mountains. But this may be a misprint. I would recommend
+you to let the children learn drawing. I do not mean merely
+sketching, but perspective drawing, with scale and compasses. It is
+a very nice amusement, and may some day be found extremely useful.
+There is another thing would do them much good, if they should
+happen to have a taste for it: this is Euclid. Not to learn by
+heart, but to read so as to understand it. Mathematics generally,
+and Euclid, and Algebra in particular, are the best studies young
+people can undertake, for they are the only things we can depend on
+as true, (of course I leave the Bible out of the question).
+Christian and Heathen, Mahometan and Mormon, no matter what their
+religious faith may be, agree in mathematics, if in nothing else.
+But I must now tell you something of your undutiful son. I am
+learning surveying under Mr. F. Byerly, a very superior man indeed.
+In fact I could not have had a better master had he been made to
+order, for he is a first-rate surveyor, and we are exactly suited
+to each other in our general ideas; and this, to tell the truth, is
+a rare chance for me.
+
+I am getting 150 pounds per annum, and rations, but I hope in
+twelve months to have a party of my own. It is just the sort of
+life for me, nearly always in the bush marking out land for sale,
+or laying down unknown parts. It is quite a different thing from
+surveying in England. Glendaruel is fifteen miles from Ballaarat. I
+saw the Doctor and Tom a few days since. They were quite well; I
+hope you are so also. Love to all.
+
+Your affectionate son,
+
+W.J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+He was appointed to the charge of a field party before the time
+he expected. I was anxious to give him a set of surveying
+instruments, and requested him to send me a list and an order to
+the best London maker for such as he wanted. He transmitted the
+following letter, which marks the progress of his knowledge, to be
+forwarded to Messrs. Troughton and Sims, Fleet Street. I obtained
+it very recently from that house.
+
+March 20th, 1857.
+
+SIRS,
+
+I shall be much obliged by your executing the following order as
+quickly as possible, and at your most reasonable prices.
+
+1. One four-inch theodolite, best construction: 21 pounds.
+
+2. One of Troughton's best reflecting circles, eight-inch radius,
+divided on silver: 23 pounds.
+
+3. One prismatic compass, three and a-half inch, with silver ring:
+5 pounds 5 shillings.
+
+4. One six-inch semicircular protractor, with Vernier: 3 pounds 3
+shillings.
+
+5. One glass plane artificial horizon, ordnance pattern: 4 pounds 4
+shillings.
+
+6. One brass rolling parallel ruler, two feet long; must not weigh
+less than five pounds.
+
+7. One twelve-inch brass sector: 1 pound.
+
+8. One set of six-inch ivory plotting-scales, with offset scales
+complete: 4 pounds.
+
+9. Two steel straight-edges, three feet each.
+
+10. Four sixty feet land chains.
+
+11. One small compact case of good sector-jointed, drawing
+instruments with ivory parallel ruler: 3 pounds 3 shillings.
+
+12. One very small achromatic telescope of the strongest make, not
+to exceed six inches in length, when closed: 1 pound.
+
+13. A small chemical blowpipe with ivory mouthpiece, and two
+platina tips; also some platina foil and wire.
+
+14. Two Nautical Almanacs, 1858 and 1859.
+
+Leather cases and straps for theodolite, circle, and prismatic
+compass. A catalogue of instruments with prices.
+
+N.B. I should wish the theodolite and circles to be packed very
+differently from the usual way, as many instruments are seriously
+injured by the box warping either inwards or outwards; in the one
+case pressing too much on the instruments, and in the other, which
+is worse, leaving them too much space, so that they shake about
+whenever the box is carried. The consequence is that the screws
+loosen, the glasses fall out of the telescopes, and the instruments
+become unfit for use just when they are most wanted. I think these
+evils may be avoided by having the parts of the box which touch any
+instrument well padded with the most elastic materials, and for it
+to be supported entirely on steel springs, strong enough to keep it
+firmly in its place, and with sufficient play to allow the box to
+warp without injury to any of the contents. I also wish an
+improvement in the stand of the theodolite, which ought not to be
+smaller than that of the five-inch one, and the joints made of the
+metals least likely to sustain damage from friction. The cap-piece
+should be nearly twice the depth, vertically, and cut out of one
+solid piece of metal. I subjoin a sketch of it, with the
+dimensions. It may be made of whatever metal you think proper.
+There is no harm in having iron about it, because we seldom require
+to use the needle. My reason for wanting this improvement is, that
+the legs get loose so quickly from the wearing away of brass, and
+that the many small surfaces in contact are too disproportionate to
+their length. Strength and durability are of far more consequence
+than lightness, as we have not the facilities for getting things
+repaired here that you have in England. The figures I have placed
+opposite to the instruments described are not supposed to be the
+exact prices, but merely suggested as guides. I hope you will do
+the best you can with the improvements mentioned, especially in the
+mode of packing the larger articles. Please also to insure them to
+the full value.
+
+I have the honour to be,
+
+Gentlemen,
+
+Your obedient servant,
+
+W.J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+He then in a postscript makes some suggestions as to the
+graduation of the scales. The instruments were sent out in the
+shortest possible time and gave great satisfaction. On departing
+for his last fatal expedition, he requested me, should he not
+return, to give all his remaining instruments to his friend Mr.
+Byerly, for whom his high estimation never abated. This injunction
+I fulfilled as far as in my power. Any person who may happen to be
+in charge of some that I had not, will I trust deliver them to
+their lawful owner, Frederick Byerly, Esquire, Surveyor, Melbourne.
+
+About the time I am now referring to, I was often congratulated by
+gentlemen of the Surveying Department, who were acquainted with my
+son, on his rapid progress in the difficult branches of the
+science. One, in particular, said: "I consider it wonderful that
+your son should have mastered this business almost by his own
+exertions, whilst I have cost my father nearly a thousand pounds in
+England, under first-rate teachers, and am glad to go to him for
+information on many points." Mr. Byerly too, who is not given to
+flatter, when I thanked him for having so ably instructed and
+brought my son forward in so short a time, replied: "Don't thank
+me; I really believe he has taught me quite as much as I have
+taught him." In my own experience, his queries and suggestions led
+me to investigate many things, which I had slightly considered,
+without thoroughly understanding them. He had a rare gift of
+ascertaining in a very short time the use of any instrument put
+into his hands, and could detect at a glance its defects, if such
+existed. In the early part of 1858, a gentleman who had made errors
+in his surveys asked him to look over some of his instruments.
+William, on taking one into his hand, said at once, with a smile:
+"If you work with this, you will find many errors." "That is why I
+asked you," replied the owner. "I have been surveying with it, and
+have committed nothing but mistakes." So much were people in the
+habit of praising him, that it carried my thoughts back to my Latin
+Grammar, and the quotation from Terence:--
+
+    Omnes omnia
+    Bona dicere et laudare fortunas meas,
+    Qui gnatum haberem tali ingenio praeditum.
+
+For himself, he was perpetually lamenting to me that at school
+he had not received more mathematical instruction; that the time
+spent in classics exclusively, was, for many, time thrown away. But
+I must do his late master the justice of saying, that when he first
+received him under his tuition, he showed little fondness for
+mathematics in general, although he had a taste for algebra. The
+two following letters, to his brother and mother, bearing the same
+date, in the spring of 1858, were despatched from the out-station
+where he was engaged in a survey.
+
+St. Arnaud, April 10th, 1858.
+
+DEAR CHARLEY,
+
+I do not think you have written a letter to me since we have been
+out here. It gave me much pleasure to see yours to the Doctor. I
+wish you could be here, instead of working for 40 or 50 pounds a
+year at home, out of which you can save very little. Here you might
+be getting at least 100 pounds, and nothing to find yourself but
+clothes. But it will not do for you to come until the Doctor goes
+home. I want you to write and tell me if you have any taste for any
+particular profession, and if you have been making good use of your
+spare time, in reading useful works. You should remember never to
+waste a minute; always be doing something. Try and find out what
+things you have most taste for, as they are what you should study
+most; but get a general knowledge of all the sciences. Whatever
+else you learn, don't forget mathematics and the sciences more
+immediately deduced from them, (at the head of which stands
+astronomy,) if you have any love of truth--and if you have not, you
+have none of your mother's blood in you. Mathematics are the
+foundation of all truth as regards practical science in this world;
+they are the only things that can be demonstrably proved; no one
+can dispute them. In geology, chemistry, and even in astronomy,
+there is more or less of mere matter of opinion. For instance, in
+astronomy we do not know for certain what the sun or stars are made
+of, or what the spots are on the sun, and a few details of that
+kind; but the main mathematical principles cannot be disputed. The
+distance and size of the sun or of any of the planets can be
+proved; the length of their days and years, and even the weight of
+the matter of which they are composed. Such things will probably
+appear to you impossible, if you have read nothing of them;
+especially when you hear that the sun is ninety-five millions of
+miles off, and that the planet Neptune, which is the farthest known
+planet from the sun, is at such a distance that the light of the
+sun takes about five hours to reach it; that is, the sun is
+actually five hours above the horizon before the people there see
+it rise. Its distance is 2850 millions of miles, and the sun as
+seen by them is not larger than Venus appears to us when an evening
+star. And although this planet is so distant that it can only be
+seen with large telescopes, they can not only compute its distance
+and size, but also the mass of matter of which it is composed. But
+you will find all this thrown into the shade by the way in which it
+was discovered. As I may be telling you what you know already, I
+will merely state, that from observed perturbations in the course
+of the planet Uranus, it was supposed that another planet was in
+existence beyond it; and two competitors set to work to calculate
+its size, situation, etc. The result was, the discovery of this
+other planet within a few minutes of the place pointed out by them,
+and its size, etc., not very different from what they estimated it
+at. But besides this, astronomy includes matters more intimately
+mixed up with our everyday affairs. In the Nautical Almanacs, which
+are constructed for several years in advance, the situations and
+nearly everything connected with the different planets are
+calculated for every day in the year, and can be found, if
+required, for any minute in any day you please, for 10,000 years to
+come. Also the eclipses of the sun or moon, with the exact moment
+at which they will commence or end, at any spot on the earth; the
+exact portion eclipsed, or, in fact, anything about it you like to
+mention for any given number of years in advance. Not only this,
+but you can find the eclipses of Jupiter's moons with the same
+precision. Now is there anything to be compared with this? But if
+astronomy led to no other end than the mere gaining of knowledge,
+or the assistance of commerce, it would take a far lower stand than
+it is really entitled to. As the great object of the science is the
+correction of error and the investigation of truth, it necessarily
+leads all those that feel an interest in it to a higher
+appreciation and desire for truth; and you will easily perceive
+that a man having a knowledge of all these vast worlds, so much
+more extensive than our own, must be capable of forming a far
+higher estimate of that Almighty Being who created all these
+wonders, than one who knows nothing more than the comparatively
+trifling things that surround us on earth.
+
+I send you 3 pounds, with which you are to get the following books
+for yourself and the girls:
+
+Dr. Lardner's Museum of Science and Art, in six double volumes: 1
+pound 1 shilling.
+
+Chambers' Mathematics, Parts 1 and 2, and Chambers' Mathematical
+Tables, each: 3 shillings 6 pence.
+
+A Nautical Almanac for next year: 2 shillings 6 pence.
+
+The Art of Reasoning, or the Principles of Logic, by Samuel Niel: 4
+shillings 6 pence.
+
+Twelve planispheres, forming a guide to the stars for every night
+in the year, with an introduction: 6 shillings 6 pence.
+
+Lardner's Museum of Science and Art is one of the best books that
+has ever been written. It includes a general knowledge of nearly
+everything you can think of; and will be as useful to Bessy and
+Hannah as to you.
+
+Chambers' Mathematics, contain all that you are likely to require
+in that branch, with the exception of Euclid and Algebra, both of
+which you must get, unless you have them. You will need some one to
+assist you and explain points in the mathematics and algebra,
+otherwise your progress will be very slow. But remember that
+whenever you have puzzled over a problem for some time, and cannot
+understand it, do not give it up altogether, but leave it for a few
+days or weeks and then try it again. It will then, very likely,
+appear quite simple, and you will be astonished that you did not
+make it out before. You will find the Nautical Almanac very useful,
+not only in giving you an idea of astronomical problems, but also
+for ascertaining the particulars of any strange stars you may see,
+or where to look for the different planets, etc. With the help of
+the twelve maps you will soon be acquainted with all the principal
+fixed stars.
+
+You should carefully study the Art of Reasoning, as it is what most
+people are very deficient in, and I know few things more
+disagreeable than to argue, or even converse with a man who has no
+idea of inductive and deductive philosophy. After getting the books
+I have mentioned, you may spend the balance in any others you
+please, but remember, they must be scientific ones. If you write to
+Walton and Maberley, 27 Ivy Lane, Paternoster Row, they will send
+you a catalogue of books published by them, in which you will find
+descriptions of nearly all that I have mentioned and plenty of
+others. You can order those you want direct from them, or get them
+through a local stationer. I expect you to acquire some practice at
+printing, and ornamental writing, in the Bank. If you have a steady
+hand, you should exercise yourself at it as much as possible, and
+learn mechanical drawing at the same time. Draftsmen get well paid
+out here, and are greatly in demand. Being able to print neatly and
+evenly is the main point: all the rest is easily learned. My hand
+is very unsteady, as you may see by my writing; I do not think I
+shall ever be able to write a decent hand. One other piece of
+advice I must give you before I shut up; that is, never try to show
+off your knowledge, especially in scientific matters. It is a sin
+that certain persons we know have been guilty of. The first step is
+to learn your own ignorance, and if ever you feel inclined to make
+a display, you may be sure that you have as yet learned nothing. I
+think I must write to mamma next time. Give my love to her, the
+girls, old Anne, Aunt M., Miss R., etc., and when you write, tell
+me what has become of Farwell, and any others of our schoolmates
+you may know about.
+
+Your affectionate brother,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+St. Arnaud, April 10th, 1858.
+
+MY DEAR MOTHER,
+
+It is all very well to say write about anything, but it is
+easier said than done. You will find that I have written Charley a
+long letter, and I had no idea of doing so when I began, as you see
+I commenced on note paper. But what would be the use of my writing
+to you on such subjects, and all others are soon disposed of? (You
+would not think I was a surveyor, to look at the parallelism of
+these lines.) You tell me in one of your letters to write about
+myself. That is a very poor subject, and one that a mother should
+not recommend to a son. My father sent me a letter of yours a few
+weeks ago, and I cannot say whether it most amused or pained me to
+see the extraordinary way in which you rush to conclusions. Your
+argument appears to be this: J. is acquainted with a Mr. T. another
+Mr. T. has taken out some Miss G. G.'s, about whom there are
+scandalous reports (which are as likely to be false as true):
+therefore J. is sure to fall in love with one of the Miss G. G.'s.
+As it happens, J. has not had the pleasure of meeting any of the
+Miss G. G.'s, and it is quite probable that he never may, as
+Australia is not a little place like Totnes; and I do not think he
+would have any wish to connect himself with the G. family, or with
+any family in marriage, at present. There is another thing, my dear
+mother, in that letter. You talk about high and low people; I
+presume you use the words in a very different sense from that in
+which I understand them. I consider nothing low but ignorance,
+vice, and meanness, characteristics generally found where the
+animal propensities predominate over the higher sentiments. I have
+yet to learn that there is anything high about the T.'s. Mr. T. is
+a jolly little man, and lives more like a gentleman than most of
+the people about the bush; but he has rather a tendency to the
+animal development than otherwise, which makes it probable that
+there may be some truth in the reports alluded to.
+
+From what I can judge of this dear son of yours he is not likely, I
+think, to do anything very rashly; and as for getting married, he
+will not be in a position to think of that for several years; and
+if ever he does, I hope it will be to some one at least equal to
+himself in education. Give my love to Bessy and Hannah. I do not
+think it would do them any harm to write a letter sometimes. I
+expect Bessy was tired long ago of the algebra you were talking so
+much about.
+
+Does it ever enter your head that it would be a good thing for all
+of you to come out here in a few years, when the girls have
+finished their education? This country is undergoing great changes
+for the better. Now the rush to the diggings is over, people are
+beginning to live like civilized human beings. In a few years
+everything will be as settled as in England, and we shall be able
+to live much cheaper.
+
+Believe me ever, my dear mother,
+
+Your affectionate son,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+From a letter to myself of the 6th of June, which was rather a
+long one, I give only the following extracts:--
+
+"What you say about this world I do not quite agree with; I
+think it a very good world, and only requires a person to be
+reasonable in his expectations, and not to trust too much to
+others. It appears to be almost equally divided into three
+principal classes--honest fools, foolish rogues, and honest
+rational beings. Some may add another class, but there are so few
+belonging to it--scarcely one in ten thousand--that I think it
+should be ranked amongst the phenomena of nature. I mean, the
+successful rogues--men who do things neatly, and escape being found
+out. The first and second are often useful to each other; the third
+benefit by the first and second, inasmuch as they learn by their
+experience, without paying for it themselves." He then cautions me
+against certain money speculations. Another paragraph says: "I find
+I am likely to change my station, but have no instructions as yet.
+I do not care if they keep me here another month. I have first-rate
+neighbours, a Mr. and Mrs. M., who live just across the creek; very
+nice people, and no humbug. Mr. M. resembles you in many ways." He
+then mentions a colt he had reared, called Nelly; says she goes in
+and out of the tent as if she had been born in it, shakes hands
+with any one as soon as asked, and carries Mr. M.'s little boy
+Willie on her back with perfect gentleness. On his way back to
+Melbourne, he taught a colt of mine, in two or three days, to be
+equally docile, until it became the pet of the community. It was
+reared by hand, and I fear I lost it through the kindly-meant
+attention of one of my neighbours.
+
+In the summer of 1858 he went down to Melbourne in consequence of a
+disagreement between Mr. Byerly and the Chief Commissioner of Land
+and Works at that time, Mr. Duffy. He was not then employed in the
+regular survey, but took occasional contracts, under Mr.
+Hodgkinson, Deputy Surveyor General, who always expressed his
+admiration of his character. A letter to his mother at this date
+says:--
+
+Melbourne, August 15th, 1858.
+
+MY DEAR MOTHER,
+
+I have again to plead guilty of the sin of omitting to write. It
+is many months since I have heard from you, and as for Charley and
+the girls, they do not write at all. I have just left the bush and
+am living, for the present, in town. The change is pleasant, after
+being so long in the bush. Melbourne is wonderfully altered since I
+last saw it. There are some very fair buildings in it now, and
+things are a little cheaper than they used to be. I am, of course,
+living in lodgings, and am fortunate in getting into a comfortable
+house; a private family with no other lodgers, and Mrs. H. takes
+almost as much care of me as you would. It is quite strange, and at
+the same time amusing to me, to see her anxiety about my eating,
+drinking, catching cold, and all that sort of thing, as I have been
+so long unaccustomed to these little attentions. I am sure if some
+of you who have never been away from home were to see how we live
+in the bush, you would not expect us to survive more than a few
+weeks, and yet it does us no harm whatever. I passed through
+Ballaarat on my way down, and spent a few days with my father. He
+was looking better than he used to be, very healthy, and not so
+stout. It is astonishing how little he eats, and yet is always
+complaining of having eaten too much. I expect it will be the same
+with me. I have as good an appetite as ever, but I can live on much
+less food than other people can. I hope Charley has the books I
+told him to get. I send you with this a Victoria News Letter, which
+will save me the trouble of writing what I suppose you will care
+little to hear, so I have no more news to tell you; and with best
+love to--etc. etc.,
+
+Believe me, my dear mother,
+
+Your affectionate son,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+As I shall have occasion to allude to this letter in a
+subsequent portion of my narrative, I wish the latter part of it,
+with regard to eating, may be borne in mind.
+
+CHAPTER 4.
+
+My Son is appointed to the Magnetic Observatory at Melbourne, under
+Professor Neumayer. His Rapid Advance in the Study of Magnetism and
+Mineralogy. Letters to his Relatives at Home, descriptive of his
+Pursuits, Wishes, and Sentiments. First suggestions of his Probable
+Employment on the Exploring Expedition.
+
+IN November, 1858, my son received an appointment in the Magnetic
+Observatory at Melbourne, then recently established under Professor
+Neumayer, on the recommendation of Mr. Ligar, the Surveyor-General.
+This gentleman had his eye on him, as he told me himself, to
+succeed the professor, in the event of his returning to his native
+country, Germany; and also with the view of his being employed, on
+attaining a thorough knowledge of magnetic science, in the geodetic
+survey of the colony. Such was the progress he made, that Mr.
+Ellery, superintendent of the astronomical observatory at
+Williamstown, tried to dissuade him from engaging in the
+exploratory expedition, when formed. But notwithstanding the
+prospect of double pay and less danger, he yielded to his
+long-cherished desire of being one of the first to reach the Gulf
+of Carpentaria overland by a direct route, north from Melbourne;
+and therefore resolved to "set his life upon a cast, and stand the
+hazard of the die."
+
+I now give a series of extracts from his letters to his mother,
+sisters, and brother, written during his residence at the
+Observatory. They indicate his character, sentiments, and
+occupations more distinctly than I could do by rendering them in my
+own words. He and his chief boarded together; a great advantage, as
+it gave him the opportunity, even at table, of conversing on his
+favourite subjects, astronomy and magnetism. At times, he feared
+that he should lose this position. One cause of apprehension was,
+that the local parliament would discontinue the grant for the
+Observatory; another, that superior interest might wrest it from
+him, as he had not been regularly appointed to the staff by
+Government, but by Mr. Ligar himself, who had seen, by intercourse
+with him during the survey, that he was putting "the right man in
+the right place." In a letter to me, December, 1858, he says: "I
+hope I shall not have to go into the bush again, I like Melbourne
+and my present occupation so much. But everything must be uncertain
+until after Christmas, as all depends on Parliament voting money
+for the Observatory. Should they not allow the necessary sum, I
+must return to surveying once more."
+
+. . .
+
+Magnetic Observatory, Melbourne, March 16th, 1859.
+
+MY DEAR MOTHER,
+
+It gave me much pleasure to receive a letter from you by the
+last mail; but I can assure you that I am always so busy, and the
+time passes so quickly, that I had almost forgotten to write to you
+until it was too late, as the mail closes early to-morrow morning.
+I am now living at the Observatory, Professor Neumayer having
+kindly given me a room here, which is a great advantage in many
+ways. I hope that Charley will take every opportunity of learning
+the things I mentioned in a letter to him some time ago, more
+especially mathematical drawing: and that I shall see in the next
+letter I receive from him that he has changed his mind as regards
+the profession he said he had a taste for. I wish he would find out
+for me whether there is a translation into English of Colonel
+Savage's Practical Astronomy. It is a Russian work, and the place
+to inquire is of some of the booksellers in London who confine
+themselves to foreign publications. I like my present employment
+more and more every day. My only trouble is the want of time. I
+hope you all find your time pass as easily as I do; if the girls do
+not, they may as well kill some of it by writing letters. I have so
+much to do that I must conclude, with love to all.
+
+Ever, my dear mother,
+
+Your affectionate son,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+Magnetic Observatory, June 17th, 1859.
+
+MY DEAR MOTHER,
+
+It was my intention to have sent you a stereoscopic photograph
+of your dear son by this mail; but owing to pressure of business I
+have been unable to get it done in time. I must therefore leave it
+until next month. I received a letter from Ballaarat a day or two
+ago, containing one from you to my father; you say something in it
+about not hearing from me. I do not understand how that is, as I
+have been wonderfully regular lately, and have sent a letter every
+month to one of you. I am sorry to hear that the winter has been so
+mild, for I fear that may cause much damage from frost in the
+spring. We have had a considerable quantity of rain here already,
+which is a great benefit to the country generally, but makes it
+rather unpleasant in Melbourne. Wonderful improvements have been
+made in our public library lately. It is now really a splendid one;
+in fact there are very few better anywhere. I enclose a News
+Letter, which is a great convenience to lazy fellows, or to those
+who have too much work. Give my love to all, and
+
+Believe me, my dear mother,
+
+Your affectionate son,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+Magnetic Observatory, Melbourne, June 17th, 1859.
+
+MY DEAR BESSY,
+
+I must write a few lines to you, more especially as I wrote to
+Hannah by the last mail; but mind, I must have a long answer by
+return of post. I want to know whether Charles got the maps of the
+stars that I told him to get some time ago. If so, he should begin
+at once to keep a register of meteors. In the first place, let him
+get a book--a good copybook would do--and rule it according to the
+following form, to which I have attached an example:--
+
+Column 1: Number (Name) of Meteor.
+Column 2: Day of Month.
+Column 3: Hour of Day.
+Column 4: Altitude. At commencement.
+Column 5: Altitude. At end.
+Column 6: Azimuth. At commencement.
+Column 7: Azimuth. At end.
+Column 8: Description of its situation with respect to certain Stars.
+   At commencement.
+Column 9: Description of its situation with respect to certain Stars.
+   At end.
+
+1 : June 1 : 8 P.M. : 35 degrees : 20 degrees : north-east : east
+    by south : 2 or 3 degrees below Spice. : To Anthers.
+
+Column 1: Size of Meteor.
+Column 2: Length of Tail.
+Column 3: Colour of Meteor.
+Column 4: Duration of Meteor.
+Column 5: Duration of Tail.
+Column 6: REMARKS.
+Column 7: Observer.
+
+May 2 : 5 degrees : Yellow : 1 second : 3 seconds : Small, but
+    very bright. : west.
+
+The time should be very carefully noted. If there is anything in the
+form that he does not understand he must ask me about it when he
+writes. The altitude and azimuths will only be approximate, but the
+main thing is to see how the shooting stars are situated with
+reference to the fixed stars. It is of great importance to note
+these meteors, even the small ones, as very little is yet known of
+them; and every observation, if carefully made, will some day help
+to show what they are. The object in noting the stars they pass by
+is this: that if two or more observers see the same meteor from
+places several miles from one another, the comparison of their
+observations will generally give a means of ascertaining the
+distance of the meteor from the earth. But it is getting late, and
+I will write to Charley more about it by next mail; only tell him
+to make himself well acquainted with the stars. Give my love to him
+and Hannah, your aunt M., and old Anne; and tell me in your next
+how the latter is getting on: and do not forget to let me know all
+about Charley and how he spends his time. I am afraid that you
+little girls take him out walking too much, and make him read
+pretty stories instead of the books he ought to be studying.
+
+Your affectionate brother,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+Magnetic Observatory, Melbourne, July 14th, 1859.
+
+MY DEAR MOTHER,
+
+The news by the last mail has put us all in a state of
+excitement about our defenses, in the event of England being
+involved in the continental war. Melbourne is badly situated in
+case of an invasion. There is at present not the least protection;
+and unless the home government sends us out two or three good war
+steamers, we shall most certainly get a good thrashing some day.
+The French have possession of the island of New Caledonia, which is
+not very far from here, and is a convenient place of rendezvous for
+them. I see by your letter to my father that you are rather afraid
+the French may invade England. For my part I believe they have more
+sense. It is the most hopeless thing they can attempt. I send you
+two or three photographs; they are very poor, and not stereoscopic
+as I intended. The artist made a failure of the matter and gave me
+these. He is going to try it again some day with a better camera;
+but as that would be too late for the mail I must send you these
+now, and you may expect better next time. I find that the mail is
+to close this afternoon instead of Monday morning, but if a
+supplementary bag should be made up on Monday I will write again. I
+hope that in future you will direct my letters to Melbourne instead
+of Ballaarat, for I seldom get them until the return mail is about
+to start. We have had some rather cold weather lately; that is, the
+thermometer has been below thirty-two degrees once or twice, which
+is cold for us. I am glad to hear that Charley has been appointed
+to the Bank, as it is a good thing for all parties at present. I
+fear that I shall be unable to send you a News Letter this time. I
+wish you would tell me whether you find anything of interest in
+them; also whether you would like to have the Argus sometimes.
+Adieu for the present, my dear mother,
+
+Your affectionate son,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+August 6th, 1859.
+
+MY DEAR MOTHER,
+
+You see I have sent you the News Letter for this month, with a
+long account of an unfortunate shipwreck that happened on the coast
+last month. It is a wonder how those passengers that were saved
+managed to exist so long without food. The only reasonable
+explanation that has been offered is, that as they were continually
+wet, from the sea breaking over them, a large quantity of moisture
+must have been absorbed by the skin, otherwise they could never
+have lived so long without fresh water. It must have been an
+awkward situation to be in. I fancy I would rather have been
+drowned at once; but it is not easy to judge how we should feel
+under the circumstances, unless we had tried it. As Pope says,
+'Hope springs eternal in the human breast; man never is,' etc. (of
+course you know the rest). It strikes me that the height of
+happiness is, to hope everything and expect nothing, because you
+have all the satisfaction of hope, and if you get nothing you are
+not disappointed; but if you obtain what you want, you are
+agreeably surprised.
+
+Your affectionate son,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+Flagstaff Observatory, Melbourne, August 15th, 1859.
+
+MY DEAR MOTHER,
+
+I am glad to be able to acknowledge the receipt by this mail of
+the first letter that you have sent to me direct since I have been
+in Melbourne. It is satisfactory to know that you are pleased with
+the News Letters; I must endeavour to send them regularly. I had a
+letter from my father to-day. He has received yours, which we
+feared was lost, as he saw nothing of it for some days after the
+mail was in; but he found it at Bath's Hotel. One must make some
+little allowance for a mother's partiality in your account of B.
+and H.; I hope your prejudice against novels does not prevent their
+reading those of Thackeray and Dickens, every one of whose works,
+especially the former, should be read by them, for they contain
+some of the best things, both in a moral and literary point of
+view, that we have in the English language. I shall be more careful
+in future about the postage; and now, my dear mother, with love to
+yourself and all,
+
+I remain,
+
+Your affectionate son,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+Flagstaff Observatory, Melbourne, September 15th, 1859.
+
+MY DEAR MOTHER,
+
+I was rather disappointed at not receiving a letter from any one
+by the last mail. I have not heard from my father since it arrived.
+I conclude he has not sent me your letters to him, thinking that I
+have received some myself. I suppose you are all glad that the war
+has ended so unexpectedly. It is to be hoped that the peace will be
+a permanent one, although people here generally appear to think
+that it will not prove so. The election of members for our lower
+house will soon terminate. Judging from the results already known,
+we are likely to have a curious Parliament this time. Our winter is
+nearly over. Last night there was a festival held in honour of
+Alexander von Humboldt. It was unfortunately a very wet evening,
+which prevented a great many from attending who would otherwise
+have been there. I hope you are all in good health. It would have
+pleased you much to have seen the two splendid auroras, of which I
+have sent Charley a description. At one time it was light enough to
+read a newspaper out of doors, after the moon went down. I must now
+say adieu. With much love to all,
+
+Believe me, my dear mother,
+
+Your affectionate son,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+Melbourne, September 15th, 1859.
+
+MY DEAR CHARLEY,
+
+I send you by this mail two accounts of auroras, which we have
+had the pleasure of observing here, one on the 28th ultimo, and the
+other on the 2nd instant. I would recommend you to take care of
+these papers, as you may find it very interesting to refer to them
+at some future period. You will perhaps be so good as to let me
+know by return of post whether anything of the kind was observed in
+England about the same time; and be careful to state the dates and
+hours, etc., as exactly as possible. You will find much, in the
+reports I have sent you, to object to, in the manner of expression
+and the words used; but you must make due allowance for their
+having been written by a German (Professor Neumayer). I have
+corrected some of the most prominent errors in the second. I wish
+you would look out for every description of auroras that may appear
+in the newspapers, as well as for the phenomena themselves. You
+might always cut out the paragraphs, and put them in a letter; and
+in the event of your seeing one yourself, you might write a
+description, being particular to note the time of the different
+phases as nearly as you can. By just taking this small amount of
+trouble you will be rendering a much greater service to the science
+of magnetism than you imagine; for one of the most important points
+is to establish or prove the existence of a simultaneity in the
+Northern and Southern Lights.
+
+If you have yet obtained those books that I told you some time ago
+to get, you will find some elementary information on the subject in
+them, particularly in Lardner's Museum of Science and Art.
+
+I suppose I shall hear by the next mail whether you have been able
+to obtain for me Savage's Practical Astronomy. I want to trouble
+you with another commission of the same kind, namely, to find out
+whether there is a translation from the German into English of
+Professor Carl Kreil's Introduction to Magnetic Observations, 2nd
+edition, Vienna, 1858. I fear you will have some trouble in getting
+this book for me, but it is of great importance that I should have
+it if possible. It may not be translated yet, but it certainly will
+be before long. Whenever you get any catalogues of scientific books
+from the publishers in London, you might send them to me in a
+letter; or if they are too bulky, you have only to put a strip of
+paper round, and send it as a book, without letter or writing. The
+postage is sixpence for four ounces, and threepence for every two
+ounces more, up to three pounds, which is the greatest weight that
+may be sent in one parcel; its dimensions must not exceed two feet
+in any direction.
+
+They have just succeeded in raising the two thousand pounds here,
+by subscription, that was wanted towards an exploration fund, for
+fitting out an expedition, that will probably start for the
+interior of our continent next March. Camels have been sent for, to
+be used in places where horses cannot go. You would be astonished
+at the number of applications that are being made by people anxious
+to join the expedition. Nine-tenths of them would wish themselves
+home again before they had been out three months. Give my love to
+the two girls, and believe me, my dear Charley,
+
+Your affectionate brother,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+Flagstaff Observatory, Melbourne, November 18th, 1859.
+
+MY DEAR MOTHER,
+
+The homeward mail closes in about half an hour, so that I have
+very little time to write. The mail did not arrive here until a few
+days ago, being more than a week after time. I was glad to receive
+your short letter. We have had a very pleasant spring this year;
+not so many hot winds as usual. I have mentioned in my letter to
+B--that it is probable I shall be going up the country again in a
+few months, but that need not make any difference in the address of
+my letters, as Professor Neumayer will have the best opportunities
+of forwarding them to me. We have lately had a visit from Dr.
+Hochstelter, a German professor, who came out in the Novara, an
+Austrian frigate, sent by the Austrian government to make a
+scientific tour round the world. Dr. Hochstelter is a geologist,
+and has made a geological survey of New Zealand. He exhibited a few
+evenings ago at our philosophical institute a great number of maps
+which he has compiled during the short time he remained on the
+island, and stated many very interesting facts connected with them.
+From what he says, there is no place in the world, except Iceland,
+where boiling springs and geysers are so large and plentiful. The
+doctor goes home by this mail, and I suppose there will soon be a
+good work published by him, giving a description of all he has
+seen. I hope to visit New Zealand as soon as I return from the
+interior of this country.
+
+Ever your affectionate son,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+It will be perceived by the foregoing letters how diligently
+and anxiously he corresponded with his mother, sisters, and brother
+in England, and how anxiously he desired the mental improvement of
+the latter. In his next communications he prepares them for the
+probability of his being one of the exploring party. Yet he wrote
+on the subject as he had done to me, with reserve, until the matter
+should be finally settled. He knew the anxiety it would occasion,
+and in the event of his not obtaining the appointment he so
+earnestly sought for, he wished to avoid creating that anxiety
+unnecessarily.
+
+The same mail which bore his letter of the 18th of November to his
+mother, carried also the following to his sister:
+
+MY DEAR BESSY,
+
+I do not mean to bother you with such a long letter this time as I
+did last month, and which I hope reached you. I rather expected to
+have received the photograph I wrote to you for by the last mail. I
+wish you would indite some good long letters by return of post, as
+it will probably be the last, or very nearly so, that I shall get
+from you for many months. It seems very likely that I shall be
+leaving Melbourne in March, to accompany the expedition for the
+exploration of the interior of this continent. It is calculated
+that we shall be away for about three years. It may be more, but it
+is not likely to be much less. IT IS NOT YET CERTAIN that I shall
+go. In fact, nothing is decided, not even who will be the leader;
+but I thought it would be as well to mention it to you now, as your
+answer to this cannot reach me until March. But remember that my
+going away need not prevent your writing frequently; for it is
+likely there will be occasional means of communication with
+Melbourne for the first six months, and Professor Neumayer will
+take every opportunity of forwarding my letters. It is quite
+possible that I may not go, but it is more likely that I shall, as
+Professor N. is very anxious that I should, to make magnetic and
+meteorological observations, and he is on the Exploration
+Committee. If you have not been able to get the books I wrote for,
+for myself, you may as well leave them for the present. I have been
+indulging greatly in operas lately. I can understand that sort of
+music better than high-flown oratorios. The operatic company at the
+Theatre Royal is not first-rate, but as good as we can expect to
+have in a new colony like this. The pieces they have given are Il
+Trovatore, Lucia di Lammermoor, Lucrezia Borgia, and La Sonnambula;
+the latter is a delightful one, but they cannot manage it
+satisfactorily, some of the songs are so difficult of execution.
+
+Please to give my love, etc., etc.
+
+Your affectionate brother,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+The following reply to his mother alludes to the circumstance, which
+she had mentioned, of an aurora borealis, having appeared in
+England. This completes his letters for 1859.
+
+Flagstaff Observatory, December 18th, 1859.
+
+MY DEAR MOTHER,
+
+Your letter of the 17th of October arrived here by the Columbian
+only three or four days after time, which is a wonderful piece of
+punctuality for that miserable old tub. I am glad that you were so
+much pleased with the sketch of the Observatory that I sent you. I
+now forward a photograph made by a friend of mine, which will
+convey a better idea than the other of the appearance of our
+habitation, etc. You will find an explanation of the various parts
+of the picture written in pencil on the back of each respectively.
+You had better have it mounted on a piece of cardboard by some one
+who is accustomed to mounting photographs; when nicely done it
+looks twice as well. It was intended that we should all have been
+taken in this picture, but owing to some mismanagement, no notice
+was given, so no one was outside at the time. Your remarks about
+the aurora borealis of the 12th of October were very interesting
+and valuable. We knew that there was an aurora there, but of course
+could not tell where it was visible. You little thought that while
+you were looking at the vibrations of those beautiful streamers of
+red and white light, I was watching sympathetic oscillations of
+little steel magnets, which we suspended by silk threads, in the
+underground magnetic house that you see the top of in the
+foreground of the picture. The magnets were sometimes moving about
+so rapidly that I could scarcely read them; and although the aurora
+was with you nearly at an end probably about ten o'clock, yet the
+magnets did not resume their normal position for nearly twenty-four
+hours after. You will see from this the advantage to be derived
+from noting all particulars with regard to these phenomena,
+whenever one has an opportunity of seeing them; for we must always
+consider the possibility of their not being visible at places where
+there are observatories, on account of clouds and other causes. One
+great point that has yet to be satisfactorily determined is,
+whether the effect on a magnet at one end of the world is
+simultaneous with the auroral discharge at the other; or whether a
+certain time is required for the effect to be communicated through
+the earth. I had a letter from my father yesterday, enclosing the
+one you sent him. By-the-by, this day week is Christmas-day; and,
+if I am not mistaken, your birthday as well as Hannah's is near
+about this time. She must be thirteen or fourteen; but, upon my
+honour, I do not certainly know my own age. Was I born in January
+1834 or 1835? I wish you all may have a merry Christmas and many
+returns of the same. Please to give my love as usual, and
+
+Believe me, my dear mother,
+
+Your affectionate son,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+CHAPTER 5.
+
+Postponement of the Exploring Expedition projected at the beginning
+of 1860. My Son's Letter to his Sister on going into Society. Mr.
+Birnie's Opinion of him, and Extract from his Lecture. Letter from
+William to his Mother on Religious Views and Definitions of Faith.
+His last Communications to his family at Home, before the Departure
+of the Expedition.
+
+I OMIT my son's letters of January and February, 1860, as they
+contain nothing on scientific matters, or on the subject of
+Australia, although interesting in other respects. They mark the
+habitual tone of his feelings and principles, his constant habit of
+self-examination, his study of his fellow-men, and how strongly he
+was impressed with the truth of Pope's grand conclusion, that
+
+    "Virtue alone is happiness below."
+
+"You will be glad to learn," he says, writing to his mother on the
+17th of March, "that the Exploring Expedition is postponed for six
+months, for want of a suitable leader, as none of the candidates
+who offered their services were thought qualified in a scientific
+point of view. [Footnote: Oddly enough, Mr. Burke, who was
+afterwards chosen, with many requisites of a high order, was
+deficient in this, which, indeed, he never for a moment pretended
+to possess.] You need not work yourself up to such a state of
+excitement at the bare idea of my going, but should rather rejoice
+that the opportunity presents itself. The actual danger is nothing,
+and the positive advantages very great. Besides, my dear mother,
+what avails your faith if you terrify yourself about such trifles?
+Were we born, think you, to be locked up in comfortable rooms, and
+never to incur the hazard of a mishap? If things were at the worst,
+I trust I could meet death with as much resignation as others, even
+if it came to-night. I am often disgusted at hearing young people I
+know, declare that they are afraid of doing this or that, because
+they MIGHT be killed. Were I in some of their shoes I should be
+glad to hail the chance of departing this life fairly in the
+execution of an honourable duty."
+
+The following selections from his numerous letters at this time are
+little more than extracts, and form but a small portion of the
+whole. All speak his admiration of a great and beneficent Creator,
+derived from the study of his works. He had a great distaste for
+sectarianism, and for a too slavish devotion to forms and
+conventionalities, whether in religious or social practice, fearing
+lest these extremes might savour of untruthfulness or hypocrisy.
+
+Magnetic Observatory, Melbourne, April 18th, 1860.
+
+MY DEAR BESSY,
+
+The mail was to have closed to-morrow, but the Emeu has met with an
+accident which will delay it for another week, so that I hope to
+treat you to a long letter. I was much disappointed at receiving
+nothing from you this month. It would be a first-rate plan to do
+what a friend of mine was recommending to me only this evening,
+namely to commence an epistle at the beginning of each month, and
+add a little daily, adopting as your motto the Latin proverb,
+"Nulla dies sine linea," which means, No day without a line. You
+might at least favour me with a few monthly. It would be as much
+for your own benefit as for my pleasure. Pray don't send a poor
+excuse again about waiting for an answer to a former letter.
+
+I must now return to the subject of my last. I hope you have
+carefully considered the remarks contained therein; and I wish to
+draw your attention to other matters not so immediately connected
+with religion, but which may seriously affect your prosperity and
+happiness in this world. I fear that mamma is too much inclined to
+discourage your going into society. If so, with all due deference
+to my dear mother's experience and judgment, she has adopted a
+mistaken view. You will perhaps say, you do not care for society.
+So much the worse; that proves the evil of seclusion. I had the
+same ideas once, and greatly to my disadvantage in a general sense,
+although in one point they may have been beneficial, by making me
+devote more time to my studies. But I am doubtful even about that.
+At any rate, girls are differently situated. Having no need of deep
+scientific knowledge, their education is confined more to the
+ordinary things of the world, the study of the fine arts, and of
+the manners and dispositions of people. It is often asserted that
+women are much sharper than men in estimating character. Whether
+that be the case or not, is more than I can say, but I think it
+ought to be, because women have better opportunities and more
+leisure than we have for noticing little peculiarities and the
+natural expression of the features. Now, my advice would be, to go
+as much as you can into quiet, good society, and moderately into
+gay; not to make it the business of life, as some do, who care for
+little beyond frivolous amusements, and that merely for the sake of
+killing time. But go to these places, even if you do not like them,
+as a duty you owe to yourself and others, even as you used to go to
+school, when you would rather have remained at home.
+
+You should cultivate, as much as possible, the acquaintance of
+ladies from other parts of the country, especially of those who
+have travelled much. This is the best way of rubbing off
+provincialisms, etc. Perhaps you think you have none; nevertheless
+I shall be prepared for some whenever I have the felicity of seeing
+you. You cannot think how disagreeable the sound of the Devonshire
+drawl is to me now, and all people of the county that I meet have
+it more or less. You will, no doubt, wonder how I have become so
+changed, and what has induced me to adopt social views so different
+from those I formerly held. The fact is, that since I have been
+here, I have been thrown into every variety of companionship, from
+the highest to the lowest, from the educated gentleman and scholar
+to the uncultivated boor. The first effect was, a disposition to
+admire the freedom and bluntness of the uncivilized; but more
+personal experience showed me the dark as well as the bright side,
+and brought out in their due prominence the advantages of the
+conventionalities of good society. While in the bush, this
+conviction only impressed itself partially, but a return to town
+extended and confirmed it. When we are in daily contact and
+intercourse with an immense number of persons, some of whom we
+like, while we dislike or feel indifferent about many others, we
+find a difficulty in avoiding one man's acquaintance without
+offending him, or of keeping another at a distance without an
+insult. It is not easy to treat your superiors with respect void of
+sycophancy, or to be friendly with those you prefer, and at the
+same time to steer clear of undue familiarity, adapting yourself to
+circumstances and persons, and, in fact, doing always the right
+thing at the proper time and in the best possible manner. I used to
+be rather proud of saying that it was necessary for strangers to
+know me for some time before they liked me. I am almost ashamed now
+not to have had sense enough to see that this arose from sheer
+awkwardness and stupidity on my part; from the absence of address,
+and a careless disregard of the rules of society, which necessarily
+induce a want of self-confidence, a bashful reserve, annoying to
+sensible people and certainly not compensated for by the possession
+of substantial acquirements, hidden, but not developed, and
+unavailable when wanted. I find now that I can get into the good
+graces of any one with whom I associate better in half an hour than
+I could have done in a week two years ago. I know no one who puts
+these matters in a better light than Lord Chesterfield in his
+Letters to his Son, which you most probably have read.
+
+Since I wrote to you last, I have received some light on the
+subject of FAITH, which I was not at that time aware of. In a
+discussion with a gentleman on religious matters, some remarks were
+made upon faith and charity, which led to an analysis of the
+original Greek word used to express the former by St. Paul, which
+has been translated "faith," and is generally accepted in the
+ordinary sense we attach to that word in English; namely, an
+implicit trust in what you are told, without question or doubt. But
+this friend of mine, who is a splendid Greek scholar, called my
+attention to the fact that the Greek word, for which we have no
+exact equivalent, means an openness to conviction, or a willingness
+to receive after proper proof; not a determination to believe
+without investigation. He also pointed out to me what I was less
+prepared to hear, that the charity spoken of does not mean, as I
+supposed it to express, conscientiousness, but love and
+good fellowship, in action and speech; in fact, more in accordance
+with the sense in which the word is commonly understood. This will
+show you the evil of coming to conclusions on insufficient data.
+Depend upon it, you must always hear both sides of a story before
+you can get at the truth.
+
+I am going out to dinner this evening expressly to meet two of the
+finest girls in Melbourne. Some of my cautious friends say that I
+am running a great risk, and that I shall never recover from the
+effects. I cannot say that I feel much frightened. If anything
+serious should happen, and the consequences are not immediately
+fatal, I shall add a few lines to-morrow. Look sharp about
+photographs. I begin to suspect you are ashamed to show your faces
+in this remote region. Give my love to H., C., etc., and accept the
+same from
+
+Your ever affectionate brother,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+P.S. 19th.--The elements interposed to save me from the danger I
+wilfully determined not to avoid. It rained so heavily last evening
+that the syrens stayed at home.
+
+. . .
+
+In the month of May 1860, I went to Melbourne for a few days,
+and spent many pleasant hours with my son. I found him contented and
+happy. His appointment to the Exploring Expedition, so long the
+yearning desire of his heart, he appeared to consider as a fait
+accompli. He was in comfortable lodgings, and had established an
+intimacy with a gentleman of superior literary acquirements,
+personally acquainted with many London celebrities of our day. I
+remember the delight with which he came to my hotel and said: "You
+must dine with me to-day; I want to introduce you to a person you
+will much like. His greatest fault is one you possess yourself, a
+turn for satire, which sometimes makes him enemies." On the same
+morning he had announced to his friend with beaming eyes, "My
+father is here;" and when the next day that same friend wished to
+engage him to an evening party, he replied: "You forget that I have
+a wild young father to take care of." Alluding again to this, in a
+letter to his mother, on the 17th of May, he says: "You must excuse
+a brief epistle this time. The Doctor has been in town for a few
+days lately, and of course seduced me into all sorts of wild
+habits. He is looking well, in good condition, but not so fat as he
+was two years ago." At that time I had been living very frequently
+on little more than one hard egg per day. Milk and coffee in the
+morning, and half a pound of meat twice a week. In another letter
+to his mother, shortly after the above date, he says: "I have not
+heard from my father for the last fortnight. I am in very good
+lodgings, at a boarding-house, not working hard, and have time to
+cultivate some agreeable society. The landlady is all that can be
+desired and more than could be expected--the company far above the
+average. There is Mr. B., a barrister and Cambridge man, first
+rate; and a nice old lady, Mrs. F., very intelligent and
+good-natured. We three are great friends. Taking it altogether, the
+house is so comfortable, that I did not go to the theatre once last
+month." The mutual good opinion may be estimated by the following
+introduction from the gentleman alluded to above, to the Colonial
+Secretary at Perth, in the event of his explorations leading my son
+to Western Australia:
+
+"I pray your hospitality for Mr. W. J. Wills, for whom I have a
+very high esteem and friendship. He makes me happy beyond flattery
+by permitting me to think that I add something to his life. You
+cannot fail to like him. He is a thorough Englishman, self-relying
+and self-contained; a well-bred gentleman without a jot of
+effeminacy. Plucky as a mastiff, high-blooded as a racer,
+enterprising but reflective, cool, keen, and as composed as daring.
+Few men talk less; few by manner and conduct suggest more. One
+fault you will pardon, a tendency to overrate the writer of this
+letter."
+
+This gentleman, Mr. Birnie, is a son of the late Sir Richard
+Birnie, so long an eminent police magistrate in London. At the
+close of a lecture which he gave at Ballaarat on the 24th of May,
+1862, subsequent to the disastrous intelligence of my son's death,
+he introduced the following remarks, as reported in a colonial
+paper:--
+
+If amusement and gravity might be held compatible, they would
+bear with him in pronouncing the name of William John Wills.
+(Cheers.) The lecturer, when first in Melbourne, lived at a
+boarding-house, and there he met Wills. Their friendship soon grew
+and strengthened, in spite of the difference of their ages. Of the
+man as a public explorer, everybody knew as well as he did.
+Professor Neumayer said that Wills's passion for astronomy was
+astonishing, and that his nights were consumed in the study. Yet
+his days also were spent in enlarging his literary attainments. But
+with all this labour, Wills never disregarded the commoner duties
+and virtues of life. Even at the breakfast-table he was as neat and
+clean as a woman. At the ball, of which he was as fond as a child,
+he was scrupulously temperate, and in speech pure as a lady. Wills
+read Sharon Turner, Hazlitt, Pope, Wordsworth, Tennyson, and
+commented on all. Of Tennyson's In Memoriam he said it was
+wonderful for its frequent bordering on faults without ever
+reaching them. He was a student of literature as well as of
+astronomy and science. Much intercourse they had had, and when the
+lecturer heard of his death he felt glad that nothing existed for
+recrimination or self condemnation. Wills was a great admirer of
+Shakespeare, and his remarks on that author were original and
+striking. This tribute the lecturer would lay upon his friend's
+bust, and humble though the offering was he felt it would be
+accepted. The lecturer with much feeling concluded a peroration of
+eloquent eulogy upon his deceased friend, amid the loud and
+prolonged applause of the audience, who had cheered him at frequent
+intervals throughout the whole of his discourse.
+
+Mr. McDowall moved a vote of thanks to the lecturer, seconded by
+Mr. Dimant, both gentlemen highly complimenting Mr. Birnie for his
+kindness in giving his services on the occasion.
+
+The vote was carried by acclamation, and Mr. Birnie, in
+acknowledging it, implored the audience not to let the movement die
+away. The proposed monument could not be too good for the fame of
+the heroic explorers, and particularly as commemorating the
+patient, pious, unselfish manliness of Wills to the latest moment
+of his life. (Cheers.)
+
+The proceedings then closed.
+
+. . .
+
+In his ordinary letters to me, and in his journals of
+the Expedition, which he knew were likely to become public
+documents, my son seldom or never touched upon the all-important
+subject of religion. This has given rise to an opinion broadly
+hinted in Australia by some, and of course believed by more, that
+he was either a sceptic or a downright infidel. Nothing could be
+further from the truth. His mother's love had instructed him early
+and zealously in the doctrines of Christianity, and prepared his
+mind for a conviction of their divine truth when he reached an age
+which would enable him to exercise his own judgment. As I have
+already mentioned, even in childhood he had an inquiring mind and a
+disposition to take nothing for granted without investigation.
+Hence the questions which sometimes surprised and puzzled his
+instructress. The tendency grew with his growth, and displayed
+itself in his mode of dealing with every branch of knowledge
+comprised in his education. If a new fact in science or an
+improvement in a mathematical or surgical instrument came under his
+observation, he closely examined their bearing and use before he
+adopted them or subscribed to their truth or utility. Those who
+question before they believe are not unfrequently pronounced
+unbelievers because they question; an inverted mode of reasoning
+equally uncharitable and illogical. My son had an undisguised
+dislike to any ostentatious display of religious sentiment and
+phraseology, particularly on the part of those who were not
+teachers by calling. He sometimes suspected more cant than
+sincerity in the practice, and thought these matters better suited
+for inward communication between man and his Maker than for public
+exhibition on common occasions. With my wife's permission I insert
+the following letter, now for the first time placed in my hands:--
+
+Flagstaff Observatory, Melbourne, June 17th, 1860.
+
+MY DEAR MOTHER,
+
+The mail arrived here only two or three days ago, being nearly
+a fortnight behind time. I have received your letter of the 13th of
+April, and one from Bessy. Your endeavours to show that my remarks
+on religion were wrong, have tended to convince me more clearly
+that I was right, and that you, partially at least, misunderstood
+what I said. I did not charge you with being openly uncharitable or
+of plainly condemning any one; nor do I blame you for believing you
+are right. We all think we are right, or we should not believe as
+we do. But I do blame those who pronounce everybody wrong but
+themselves; for as far as we can judge, one may be as near the
+truth as another. How often we hear VERY religious people,
+compassionately remarking upon a neighbour's death: "Ah, poor dear
+fellow, he was such a good sort of man! I hope and trust he died in
+the faith!" meaning, of course, their own peculiar tenets, and
+obliquely implying that, in spite of all his estimable qualities,
+they have great doubts of his salvation. For my part, I consider
+this as bad as the outspoken uncharitableness of bigots and
+persecutors in the olden days. The inference may be true, but it is
+not we who have a right to think, much less to utter it.
+
+But I must now come to the more precise point on which we
+differ--the meaning of a single expression, which I think I have
+named in a former letter. I allude to the word FAITH, which, as I
+was always taught to interpret it, appeared to my apprehension
+analogous to CREDULITY, or a blind belief without question;--an
+explanation which went against my conscience and conviction
+whenever it occurred to me from time to time. As I grew older I
+felt it to be wrong, although I was not sufficiently informed to
+explain it differently. What perplexed me was that St. Paul should
+advocate such a servile submission of the intellectual faculties
+which God has bestowed upon man; such an apparent degradation of
+the human mind to the level of the lower creation as to call upon
+us to lay aside our peculiar attributes of reason, common sense,
+and reflection, and to receive without inquiry any doctrine that
+may be offered to us. On this principle, we should be as likely to
+believe in the impostor as in the true saint, and having yielded up
+our birthright of judgment, become incapable of distinguishing
+between them. I have thought much on the subject with the
+assistance of better authorities and scholars than myself, and will
+now endeavour to explain what I consider St. Paul meant by FAITH,
+or rather by the Greek word Piotis, which has been so translated.
+After you have read my explanation, and carefully examined your own
+mind, will it be too much to expect an admission that of the three
+great elements of Christianity, faith, hope, and charity, you have
+hitherto had more of hope than of the other two? The Greek word
+used by St. Paul signifies something more than faith, or implicit
+belief, as many render it. It means a self-reliant confidence
+arising from conviction after investigation and study--the faith
+that Paley advocates when he says, "He that never doubted never
+half believed." It implies, in the first place, an unprejudiced
+mind, an openness to conviction, and a readiness to receive
+instruction; and then a desire to judge for ourselves. This must be
+followed by a patient investigation of evidence pro and con, an
+impartial summing up, and a conclusion fairly and confidently
+deduced. If we are thus convinced, then we have acquired faith--a
+real, unshakeable faith, for we have carefully examined the title
+deeds and know that they are sound. You will surely see that faith
+in this sense, and credulity, a belief without inquiry, are the
+very reverse of each other, and how much superior is the former to
+the latter. Credulity is a mere feather, liable to be blown about
+with every veering wind of doctrine. Faith, as St. Paul means it,
+is as firm as a castle on a rock, where the foundations have been
+carefully examined and tested, before the building was proceeded
+with.
+
+In collateral evidence of what I have just said, I may instance the
+often-repeated injunction to accept things as little children;
+which cannot mean with the ignorance and helpless submission of
+infancy, but with minds free from bigotry, bias, or prejudice, like
+those of little children, and with an inclination, like them, to
+receive instruction. At what period of life do any of us learn so
+rapidly and eagerly as in childhood? We acquire new ideas every
+time we open our eyes; we are ever attracted by something we have
+not observed before; every moment adds to our knowledge. If you
+give a child something to eat it has not been accustomed to, does
+it swallow it at once without examination? Does it not rather look
+at, smell, feel, and then taste it? And if disagreeable, will it
+eat merely because the new food was given to it for that purpose?
+On the contrary, it is more inclined to reject the gift until
+influenced by your eating some yourself, or by other modes of
+persuasion. Let us then, in like manner, examine all that is
+offered to our belief, and test it by the faculties with which the
+great God has endowed us. These rare senses and powers of reasoning
+were given to be used freely, but not audaciously, to discover, not
+to pervert the truth. Why were so many things presented as through
+a veil, unless to stimulate our efforts to clear away the veil, and
+penetrate to the light? I think it is plain that St. Paul, while he
+calls upon us to believe, never intended that we should be
+passively credulous. [Footnote: My son might have further enforced
+his view by a passage from St. Paul, 1 Thessalonians, chapter 5
+verse 21, had it occurred to him: "Prove all things; hold fast that
+which is good." By this the apostle implies, according to
+Archbishop Secker's commentary, all things which may be right or
+wrong according to conscience. And by "proving them" he means, not
+that we should try them by experience, which would be an absurd and
+pernicious direction, but that we should examine them by our
+faculty of judgment, which is a wise and useful exhortation.]
+Credulity was one of the most prominent engines of the Romish
+Church, but there was a trace of sense in their application of it.
+They taught that the ignorant and uneducated should have faith in
+the doctrines introduced to them by their betters, and those who
+had found time to investigate the matter; but some, in the present
+day, support the monstrous delusion that enlightened and
+well-trained intellects, the most glorious of all the earthly gifts
+of God, should bow to canting and illiterate fanaticism. . .
+
+Adieu for the present, my dear mother, and believe me ever
+your affectionate, and I hope unbigoted son,
+
+W.J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+This letter was the last but two he ever addressed to his mother,
+and I have not transcribed the whole. It is long and discursive,
+considering how much he had on his hands at that time, and how
+completely he was occupied with the pending expedition. In his next
+he refers to some apprehensions expressed by maternal solicitude
+that his religious convictions might be altered by a friend who
+entertained extremely different views. "I intended, my dear
+mother," he says, "to have replied at length to one of the remarks
+in your last, but I fear I must be very brief. Your idea that I am
+influenced by--'s notions of religion is amusingly erroneous. I
+never imagined that I could have written anything to warrant such
+an impression; but it shows how careful we should be to make clear
+statements so as to avoid being misunderstood. Mr.--'s religion is
+to my mind supremely ridiculous; I can only find two points in its
+favour, namely, its charity and moral principles. But these,
+although admirable in themselves, do not go far towards proving the
+truth of the theological notions entertained by its adherents. I
+can assure you that such ideas of religion are quite as far removed
+from mine as yours can be." His final letter announces the
+certainty of his being about to start on the enterprise so long
+projected. He had hitherto withheld the fact, from a wish not to
+distress his mother unnecessarily while there was a chance that any
+unforeseen obstacle might create further delay.
+
+Flagstaff Observatory, Melbourne, July 25th, 1860.
+
+MY DEAR MOTHER,
+
+I am glad to be able to inform you of a matter that you perhaps
+will not much like, although I do not know why you should object to
+it. It is that we expect to start on this exploration trip in a few
+weeks. You will find some particulars on the subject in the Argus
+that I have sent to Charles. I fancy we shall not be away so long
+as was at first intended; probably not more than twelve or eighteen
+months. I anticipate being able to send you a letter sometimes, as
+well as to receive yours to me, as they propose keeping up a
+communication with Cooper's Creek. Professor Neumayer will probably
+accompany us as far as the Darling River, taking an opportunity, at
+the same time, to prosecute the magnetic survey. This will make
+matters very pleasant, as well as being of great advantage to me in
+many respects. We shall be travelling through the country in the
+most favourable and pleasant season, when there is plenty of water,
+and everything fresh and green. It will take us about two months to
+get to Cooper's Creek. I do not give up my position in the
+Observatory, having obtained leave of absence for the time during
+which we may be engaged in the exploration. I am sorry I cannot
+give you more particulars respecting our projected tour, but you
+will hear enough about it by-and-by. I received a letter from my
+father a day or two since, in which he speaks of coming down before
+I start. I do not expect to have time to go to Ballaarat before we
+leave. I sent you by the last mail one or two small photographs of
+myself, and a locket for Bessy, which she asked me for some time
+ago. I hope they arrived safely. There was also a photograph of my
+father on paper. I have to thank some one, name unknown, for the
+Totnes papers that I received by the last mail. They appear to be
+well edited, and are decidedly a credit to the town. I had heard of
+the paper before, but did not expect to find it so good as it is. I
+suppose you have had a favourable view of the comet that has made
+its appearance lately. It was visible here for about a week: at
+first it was of a good size, but being so low down in the west, at
+sunset it could only be seen for a short time, and then it was
+comparatively dim, owing to the twilight. Since then it has rapidly
+disappeared, moving in an east-south-easterly direction. With you
+it was probably very fine. With kind love, etc., etc.,
+
+Believe me, my dear mother,
+
+Your affectionate son,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+CHAPTER 6.
+
+THE EXPEDITION.
+
+How the Expedition originated.
+Appointment of the Leader, Officers, and Party.
+Mr. Robert O'Hara Burke, Mr. G.J. Landells, Mr. W.J. Wills,
+   Dr. Herman Beckler, Dr. Ludwig Becker, etc.
+The Expedition starts from Melbourne on the 20th of August, 1860.
+Progress to Swan Hill.
+Discharge of Mr. Ferguson, the Foreman.
+Advance to Menindie.
+Resignation of Mr. Landells and Dr. Herman Beckler.
+Mr. Wills promoted to second in Command, and Mr. Wright to third.
+
+THE Exploring Expedition of 1860 originated thus. A gentleman,
+whose name is still concealed, offered one thousand pounds as an
+inducement to the Government and other parties to come forward and
+raise funds for an exploration of the island continent, now known
+as Australia, but formerly as New Holland; the vast interior of
+which had been supposed to be a desert, an inland sea, or anything
+that a poetical imagination might suggest. Attempts had been made,
+but always with insufficient means, and on too contracted a scale,
+to solve the problem. It was now for Victoria to take up the
+question in earnest. The 1000 pounds of the unknown contributor,
+increased to 2200 pounds by private subscriptions, with 6000 pounds
+voted by the colonial legislature, supplied in all a sum of above
+9000 pounds for the prosecution of this great national enterprise.
+Let Victoria, then, receive the honour so justly her due, for an
+undertaking only on a par with her characteristic spirit of
+advancement. Any stranger who visits Melbourne, a place but of
+yesterday, must be struck by the magnificent scale and number of
+the public buildings. Let him look at the Churches, Library, House
+of Parliament, University and Museum, Railways and Parks, Banks,
+Hotels, Theatres, Botanical Gardens, [Footnote: Under the charge of
+that noble father of industry, Dr. Mueller.] etc., and then call to
+mind that all this is the growth of less than a quarter of a
+century, and that the existence of the colony dates from a period
+subsequent to the accession of our beloved Queen.
+
+The arrangements for the expedition were in progress from 1858 to
+1860, under Mr. O'Shannassy, a man far above the common order, who
+now fills the superior office of Chief Colonial Secretary. He
+entered into the object with his own peculiar zeal. On his personal
+responsibility, Mr. Landells, who figures in this narrative, as
+also in a preceding one, with little credit, was despatched to
+India to procure camels, those ships of the desert, whose aid in
+traversing the unknown interior was expected to prove invaluable.
+"The camels are come!" was the cry when these new and interesting
+immigrants made their first appearance in Melbourne. All the people
+were en the qui vive. "What was to be done next? Who was to be the
+leader? When would the party start?" Mr. Nicholson had by this time
+taken the place of Mr. O'Shannassy, and he hit on the unfortunate
+expedient of delegating to the Royal Society of Melbourne the
+direction of this important expedition. I say unfortunate, because,
+by this arrangement, the opinions to be consulted were too numerous
+to expect unanimity. It is true they elected a special committee,
+which included some who were well qualified for the duty, and
+others who were less so; but, good or bad, the old adage of "too
+many cooks" was verified in this instance. Had they all been
+excellent judges, the course was still objectionable, as divided
+responsibility falls on no one.
+
+The first point to be settled was the choice of a leader. Meeting
+after meeting was held, and I must do them the justice to say that,
+on the whole, no thoroughly unexceptionable candidate offered
+himself. The necessary combination of physical and scientific
+requisites was not readily found. The question therefore fell into
+abeyance for a time on that account. But at length, and after a
+considerable delay, Robert O'Hara Burke, Esquire, police inspector
+at the Beechworth district, and afterwards at Castlemaine, was
+appointed to the post. He was in his fortieth year, experienced,
+active, and well-connected, of one of the old Galway families, and
+had held a commission as lieutenant in the Austrian army; on
+quitting which service, he procured an appointment in the Irish
+constabulary. There he was so beloved by his men, that several
+resigned when he left for Australia and accompanied him, in the
+hope of still serving under their favourite commander. He was a
+brave and true man, covetous of honour, but careless of profit; one
+who would have sought reputation "even in the cannon's mouth." With
+his name that of my poor son is indelibly conjoined. From all I
+have since collected from King, their only surviving companion, Mr.
+Burke loved my son as a brother; and William, writing of him, says:
+"The more I see of Mr. Burke the more I like him;" and he wrote
+with caution, adopted no hasty opinions, and seldom changed them
+when once formed.
+
+Mr. Burke's appointment called forth discussions and strong
+comments in the Melbourne papers. Gentlemen who considered their
+own qualifications as superior to his, and their friends who
+thought with them, expressed their opinions with more ardour than
+justice or delicacy in their respective organs. The committee of
+management, selected originally from the "Royal Society of
+Melbourne," now became united to another body called "The
+Exploration Fund Committee." The board comprised the following
+members:--Chairman, the Honourable Sir William Stawell, one of the
+Justices of Victoria; Vice-Chairman, the Honourable John Hodgson,
+M.L.C.; Treasurer, the Honourable Dr. Wilkie; Secretary, the
+Honourable Dr. Macadam; Dr. Embling;--Ligar, Esquire, Surveyor
+General; James Smith, Esquire; Professor McCoy; Dr. McKenna;
+Professor Neumayer; Sizar Elliott, Esquire; Dr. Mueller; Dr. Iffla;
+Captain Cadell; Angus McMillan, Esquire; A. Selwyn, Esquire; John
+Watson, Esquire; Reverend Mr. Blensdale; Dr. Eades; Dr. Gilbee,
+Deputy-Surveyor; and--Hodgkinson, Esquire The commander being
+appointed, the next step was to name the second. This choice, by a
+sad mistake, fell on Mr. G.J. Landells, who owed his preferment to
+the circumstance of his having been employed to bring the camels
+from India. His services, therefore, were considered indispensable
+for their management in Australia. Having convinced the committee
+of this, he demanded a salary considerably exceeding that of the
+leader, or refused to go. When Mr. Burke found that this point was
+to be discussed at the next meeting, he, with his usual high and
+liberal spirit, requested that no obstacle might be raised on that
+account. We shall presently see how Mr. Landells repaid his leader,
+and proved himself worthy of this disinterestedness. My son
+tendered his services as astronomer and guide, not at the moment
+thinking of or desiring any distinct post of command, his object
+being exclusively scientific. He had been for some time assistant
+to Professor Neumayer at the Magnetic Observatory, was a seasoned
+bushman, with great powers of endurance, and felt that he could
+discharge the duties he wished to undertake. He was not aware,
+until I informed him on his going into the Society's room to sign
+the contract, that any command had been allotted to him, neither
+did he stipulate for salary; but in consequence of Dr. Ludwig
+Becker demanding an advance of pay, on the sum first fixed, my
+son's was raised from 250 to 300 pounds per annum. The next
+appointments were Dr. Ludwig Becker, as naturalist and artist, and
+Dr. Herman Beckler as botanist and medical adviser to the
+expedition. These were scarcely more fortunate than that of Mr.
+Landells. The first named of these gentlemen was physically
+deficient, advanced in years, and his mode of life in Melbourne had
+not been such as to make up for his want of youth. I do not mean to
+imply by this that he indulged in irregular or dissipated habits.
+He possessed a happy gift of delineating natural objects with the
+pencil, but died before passing the boundaries of civilization,
+from causes unconnected with want or fatigue. Dr. Herman Beckler,
+who has since returned to his native country, was neither a man of
+courage, energy, nor of medical experience. He resigned when Mr.
+Landells did, and, as will be seen, for a very poor reason. His
+place should have been immediately supplied; for had any one worth
+a straw been sent, by his position he must have been third in
+command instead of Wright, a more ignorant being than whom could
+not have been extracted from the bush. He was scarcely able to
+write his name.
+
+The following is a copy of the memorandum of agreement, to which
+all the members of the Exploration party attached their signatures:
+--
+
+MEMORANDUM OF AGREEMENT,
+
+Made the eighteenth day of August, in the year of our Lord one
+thousand eight hundred and sixty, between the Honourable David
+Elliott Wilkie, as treasurer of the Exploration Committee of the
+Royal Society, Melbourne, of the one part, and the several other
+persons whose names are hereto subscribed, of the other part. The
+said persons forming an expedition about to explore the interior of
+Australia under Robert O'Hara Burke, hereby agree with the said
+David Elliott Wilkie faithfully to discharge the special duties
+described opposite to their respective names, and also generally to
+perform whatever in the opinion of the said Robert O'Hara Burke, as
+leader, or in the event of his death, in the opinion of the leader
+for the time being, may be necessary to promote the success of the
+expedition: and they hereby further agree to place themselves
+unreservedly under the orders of the leader, recognising George
+James Landells as second; and William John Wills as third; and
+their right of succession in the order thus stated. In
+consideration of the above services being efficiently discharged,
+the said David Elliott Wilkie, as treasurer, and on behalf of the
+said committee, hereby agrees to pay the said persons the salaries,
+at the respective rates set opposite their names; such salaries to
+be paid by monthly instalments, not exceeding one-half the amount
+then due, on a certificate from the leader that the services have
+been efficiently performed up to the date; and the remainder on and
+rateably up to the day of the return of the expedition to
+Melbourne, and no more. And each of the said persons hereby lastly
+agrees, on failure on his part fully to perform this agreement,
+that his salary shall be forfeited, and that he shall abide all
+consequences, the power of discharge vesting with the leader, and
+the power of dismissal and forfeiture of salary resting on the
+recommendation of the leader with the said David Elliott Wilkie,
+acting with the consent of the said committee. In witness whereof
+the said parties have hereunto set their hands the day and year
+above written.
+
+George James Landells--in charge of camels, second in command.
+
+William John Wills--as surveyor and astronomical observer, third in
+command.
+
+Herman Beckler--medical officer and botanist.
+
+Ludwig Becker--artist, naturalist, and geologist.
+
+Charles J. Ferguson--foreman.
+
+Thomas F. McDonagh--assistant.
+
+William Paton--assistant.
+
+Patrick Langan--assistant.
+
+Owen Cowan--assistant.
+
+William Brake--assistant.
+
+Robert Fletcher--assistant.
+
+John King--assistant.
+
+Henry Creher--assistant.
+
+John Dickford--assistant.
+
+And three sepoys.
+
+Signed by all the above in the presence of
+
+JOHN MACADAM, M.D.
+
+ROBERT DICKSON.
+
+Monday, the 20th of August, 1860, will be a memorable day in the
+annals of Melbourne, as recording the commencement of the
+expedition. It was not a false start but a bona-fide departure.
+Nearly the whole population suspended ordinary business and turned
+out to witness the imposing spectacle. The camels were a great
+attraction. The Melbourne Herald of the 21st gave the annexed
+description of the proceedings:--
+
+Tom Campbell, in a tender moment, sang a sweet hymn to a
+"Name Unknown," and many an ardent youth in and since his time, has
+borrowed inspiration from the dulcet numbers of the familiar bard,
+and allowed his imagination to run riot in "castle-building" upon
+this simple theme. Had we the poet's gift, our enthusiasm might,
+doubtless, prompt us to extol in more lofty strain the praises of
+the "great unknown"--the donor of the handsome instalment of one
+thousand pounds towards the organization of an expedition to
+explore the terra incognita of interior Australia. But in the
+absence of the favour of the Muses, dull prose must serve the
+purpose we have in view. If the "unknown" were present yesterday in
+the Royal Park, his heart must have leaped for very joy, as did
+with one accord the hearts of the "ten thousand" or more of our
+good citizens, who there assembled to witness the departure of the
+Exploring Expedition. Never have we seen such a manifestation of
+heartfelt interest in any public undertaking of the kind as on this
+occasion. The oldest dwellers in Australia have experienced nothing
+to equal it.
+
+At an early hour crowds of eager holiday folks, pedestrian and
+equestrian, were to be seen hieing along the dusty ways to the
+pleasant glades and umbrageous shade (a warm breeze; the first of
+the season, was blowing from the north-east) of the Royal Park. A
+busy scene was there presented. Men, horses, camels, drays, and
+goods, were scattered here and there amongst the tents, in the
+sheds, and on the greensward, in picturesque confusion;--everything
+premised a departure--the caravansery was to be deserted. Hour
+after hour passed in the preparations for starting. By-and-by,
+however, the drays were loaded--though not before a burden of three
+hundred-weight for each camel at starting was objected to, and
+extra vehicles had to be procured--the horses and the camels were
+securely packed, and their loads properly adjusted. Artists,
+reporters, and favoured visitors were all the time hurrying and
+scurrying hither and thither to sketch this, to take a note of
+that, and to ask a question concerning t'other. It is needless to
+say, that occasionally ludicrous replies were given to serious
+questions, and in the bustle of hurried arrangements, some very
+amusing contretemps occurred. One of the most laughable was the
+breaking loose of a cantankerous camel, and the startling and
+upsetting in the "scatter" of a popular limb of the law. The
+gentleman referred to is of large mould, and until we saw his
+tumbling feat yesterday, we had no idea that he was such a
+sprightly gymnast. His down-going and up-rising were greeted with
+shouts of laughter, in which he good-naturedly joined. The erring
+camel went helter-skelter through the crowd, and was not secured
+until he showed to admiration how speedily can go "the ship of the
+desert."
+
+It was exactly a quarter to four o'clock when the expedition got
+into marching order. A lane was opened through the crowd, and in
+this the line was formed; Mr. Burke on his pretty little grey at
+the head. The Exploration Committee of the Royal Society, together
+with a distinguished circle of visitors, amongst whom were several
+of our most respectable colonists and their families, took up a
+position in front.
+
+The MAYOR OF MELBOURNE then mounted one of the drays, and said: Mr.
+Burke--I am fully aware that the grand assemblage, this day, while
+it has impeded your movements in starting, is at the same time a
+source of much gratification to you. It assures you of the most
+sincere sympathy of the citizens. (Hear, hear.) I will not detain
+you; but for this great crowd, and on behalf of the colony at
+large, I say--God speed, you! (Cheers.) His Worship then called for
+"three cheers for Mr. Burke," "three cheers for Mr. Landells," and
+"three cheers for the party itself," which, it is needless to say,
+were responded to with all the energy and enthusiasm that are the
+characteristics of popular assemblages. He then concluded with
+again saying, "God speed and bless you!"
+
+Mr. BURKE (uncovered) said, in a clear earnest voice that was heard
+all over the crowd:
+
+Mr. Mayor,--On behalf of myself and the Expedition I beg to return
+you my most sincere thanks. No expedition has ever started under
+such favourable circumstances as this. The people, the Government,
+the committee--all have done heartily what they could do. It is now
+our turn; and we shall never do well till we justify what you have
+done in showing what we can do. (Cheers.)
+
+The party at once got into motion. Following the leader were
+several pack horses, led by some of the assistants on foot. Then
+came Mr. Landells, on a camel, next Dr. Becker, similarly mounted,
+and these were succeeded by two European assistants, riding on
+camels--one leading the ambulance camel, and the other leading two
+animals loaded with provisions. Sepoys on foot led the remainder of
+the camels, four and five in hand, variously loaded, and the
+caravan was closed by one mounted sepoy. Altogether twenty-seven
+camels go with the expedition. Two new waggons, heavily loaded,
+followed at a good distance. These were built expressly for the
+expedition, and one of them is so constructed, that at a very short
+notice it can be taken off the wheels, and put to all the uses of a
+river punt, carrying an immense load high and dry on the water. If
+it be necessary to swim the camels, air bags are provided to be
+lashed under their jowls, so as to keep their heads clear when
+crossing deep streams. Two or three hired waggons and one of the
+new ones, were detained in the park till nearly dusk, in charge of
+the astronomer, Mr. W.J. Wills, and the foreman, who had to look to
+the careful packing of instruments, specimen cases, etc. The hired
+waggons will proceed as far as Swan Hill only. Issuing from the
+south gate of the park, the party went down behind the manure
+depot, and thence on to the Sydney road, and the whole camped last
+night near the village of Essendon.
+
+. . .
+
+The first day's march scarcely exceeded seven miles, the
+camping ground for the night being on an open space of greensward
+near the church at Essendon. Here I saw my son for the last time.
+It was with a feeling of great misgiving that I took leave of him.
+On shaking hands with Mr. Burke, I said frankly, "If it were in my
+power, I would even now prevent his going." I then added, "If he
+knew what I am about to say, he would not, I think, be well
+pleased; but if you ever happen to want my son's advice or opinion,
+you must ask it, for he will not offer it unasked. No matter what
+course you may adopt, he will follow without remonstrance or
+murmur." Mr. Burke shook me warmly by the hand in return, and
+replied: "There is nothing you can say will raise him higher in my
+estimation than he stands at present; I will do as you desire."
+There were some photographers present to take likenesses. My son
+refused to be taken. "Should it ever be worth while," he said, "my
+father has an excellent one, which you can copy from." Alas! it has
+been copied very often since.
+
+The progress of the party was slow through the enclosed districts,
+until they reached Swan Hill on the Murray, which, properly
+speaking, is the northern boundary of the colony of Victoria. My
+son's first letter was dated August 26th.
+
+MY DEAR FATHER,
+
+We are now at the Mia-Mia, lying between McIvor and Castlemaine (a
+roadside public-house). We are all right enough, except as regards
+cleanliness, and everything has gone well, barring the necessary
+break-downs, and wet weather. We have to travel slowly, on account
+of the camels. I suppose Professor Neumayer will overtake us in a
+day or two. I have been agreeably disappointed in my idea of the
+camels. They are far from unpleasant to ride; in fact, it is much
+less fatiguing than riding on horseback, and even with the little
+practice I have yet had, I find it shakes me less. I shall write to
+you from Swan Hill, if not before.
+
+Your affectionate son,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+From Terrick Terrick, he writes, on the 31st of August, to
+his friend Mr. Byerly: "Riding on camels is a much more pleasant
+process than I anticipated, and for my work I find it much better
+than riding on horseback. The saddles, as you are aware, are
+double, so I sit on the back portion behind the hump, and pack my
+instruments in front, I can thus ride on, keeping my journal and
+making calculations; and need only stop the camel when I want to
+take any bearings carefully; but the barometers can be read and
+registered without halting. The animals are very quiet, and easily
+managed, much more so than horses."
+
+His next letter to me is dated from Swan Hill, September 8th:--
+
+MY DEAR FATHER,
+
+We arrived here on Saturday last, early in the afternoon. I had
+not time to write by the last post, which closed on the same
+evening. We are all in good health and spirits. The road we are
+about to take is not that which I had anticipated, namely, down the
+side of the Lower Darling, as we hear there is literally nothing
+for the horses to eat; so that we are going right across the
+country to the Darling, passing the Murray at this place. We leave
+Swan Hill about the middle of next week, and shall then be out of
+the colony of Victoria. We are expecting Professor Neumayer up
+shortly,--a scrap of paper to-day by the postman says to-morrow. I
+am rather disappointed at not having yet an assistant surveyor, but
+I hope he will arrive shortly. Letters in future had better be
+directed to the care of Dr. Macadam, the secretary, as they will
+have to go by sea.
+
+. . .
+
+On the 17th of September he writes to his mother:--
+
+Balranald, September 17th, 1860.
+
+MY DEAR MOTHER,
+
+As I have an opportunity of sending a few lines by this mail, I have
+determined to take advantage of the chance, because I know how glad
+you will be to receive them; but I have not time sufficient to give
+you any account of our journey. We are now at the last township at
+which we shall touch on our way towards the interior of the
+continent. It is an out-of-the-way place, situated on the lower
+part of the Murrumbidgee River. Our journey so far has been very
+satisfactory: we are most fortunate as regards the season, for
+there has been more rain this winter than has been known for the
+last four or five years. In fact, it seems probable that we shall
+finish our work in a much shorter period than was anticipated; very
+likely in ten or twelve months. The country up here is beautiful;
+everything green and pleasant; and if you saw it now, you would not
+believe that in two months' time it could have such a parched and
+barren appearance as it will then assume. I hope to be able, either
+from the Darling or from Cooper's Creek, to send you some details
+of our proceedings. Please to remember me to all, and
+
+Believe me, ever your affectionate son,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+At Balranald, beyond the Murray, Mr. Burke found it impossible
+to get on further with his foreman, Ferguson, and discharged him in
+consequence. It required no deep penetration to discover that this
+would occur. Before they left the Royal Park, I made a remark to
+one of the committee on Ferguson's appearance and general
+demeanour: the gentleman I addressed replied, "I have just told
+Burke he will have to shoot him yet."
+
+When Ferguson returned to Melbourne, he published his own account
+of the affair; and after the melancholy catastrophe of the
+expedition became known, he brought his action against the
+committee, and obtained a verdict for a considerable sum on the
+ground of unjust dismissal, proving his own statement in the
+absence of counter-evidence. Those who could or might have refuted
+it were dead.
+
+Mr. Burke had no sooner rid himself of his troublesome foreman,
+than his second began to exhibit insubordination in an unmistakable
+manner. This reached a crisis by the time they had proceeded as far
+as Menindie, on the Darling. Whatever Mr. Landells' merits may have
+been as a manager of camels, his post of second in command had
+evidently affected the equilibrium of his intellects. He mistook
+his position, as also the character of his superior. His conduct
+was so manifestly unjustifiable that no one took his part, or
+defended him in the slightest degree. What his real motive was,
+whether to escape from danger when danger was likely to commence,
+or to obtain the leadership of the expedition himself, is difficult
+to determine. He had been sowing dissension in the camp from an
+early period. My son was so much engaged in his scientific
+avocations that he knew little of what was going on; but when Mr.
+Landells was ill-judged enough to talk plain sedition to him, he
+saw at once, and clearly, the state of affairs. Mr. Burke was of a
+generous and unsuspecting nature; he trusted every one until
+practical experience opened his eyes, and then he naturally became
+angry, almost to violence. The following correspondence, which was
+published at the time, explains the affair exactly as it happened.
+Mr. Selwyn laid before the committee the letter from Professor
+Neumayer, enclosing my son's to him. The professor had been lost in
+the bush, and had to cut his way through the scrub for a distance
+of six miles.
+
+Youngera, November 8.
+
+MY DEAR SIR,
+
+Bad news from the expedition since I left them at McPherson's. I
+really do not know what to think of it. I send you herewith a
+letter from Mr. Wills, descriptive of the whole affair, and give
+you authority to do with it according to your views. I am right in
+the bush, and have just met with Captain Cadell, who is so kind as
+to take this to you, in order that you might have a chance of
+hearing both sides of the question. Landells I spoke to last night;
+and, according to his statement, of course he is in the right.
+
+I shall be in town in three or four weeks. Excuse my writing.
+
+Sincerely yours,
+
+NEUMAYER.
+
+Alfred Selwyn, Esquire, Government Geologist.
+
+. . .
+
+Menindie, October 16, 1860.
+
+MY DEAR PROFESSOR,
+
+I suppose you are by this time safe in town again. Great things have
+occurred since you left; in fact, I have so much to tell you that I
+do not know where to begin.
+
+That Mr. Landells has resigned, and gives over his things
+to-morrow, is news at which you will not be much surprised; but
+that Dr. Beckler has been foolish enough to follow his example, for
+no better reason than that he did not like the way in which Mr.
+Burke spoke to Mr. Landells, will I think rather astonish you. I
+shall now give you a full account of the whole matter, so that you
+may be in a position to make any statement that you may deem
+necessary in explanation of the proceedings.
+
+It will be necessary for me to remind you that when you left
+Kornpany, Mr. Landells was there with the camels, for the purpose
+of bringing on some of the heavy goods to lighten the waggons. This
+he did, and reached the camp at Bilbarka on Tuesday, the 2nd
+instant, with about three tons, whilst Mr. Burke went round by the
+lower road with the waggons and horses; he was obliged to take the
+latter with him, greatly to their disadvantage, because Mr.
+Landells would not assume the responsibility of bringing them with
+the camels. In bringing the things from Kornpany, one of Coppin's
+camels fell, having at the time on his back a load of upwards of 4
+hundred-weight. The result of this fall was, ACCORDING TO MR.
+LANDELLS' REPORT, a dislocation of the shoulder, for which he said
+nothing could be done, so that the camel has been left behind a
+perfect cripple. I have dashed the above words because I myself do
+not believe it to be a dislocation, but only a strain; but that's
+merely my idea; Mr. L. ought to know best. Certain it is that the
+poor brute hobbled nearly twenty miles after us on Thursday last,
+and I think that is rather a good pull for one with a dislocation
+of the shoulder joint.
+
+On Thursday, the 4th instant, our own two waggons came up to
+McPherson's, and in the evening Mr. Landells and I went down to the
+station to post some letters. On the way, Mr. L. made many remarks
+about Mr. Burke and his arrangements that were quite uncalled for.
+He told me, amongst other things, that Mr. B. had no right to
+interfere about the camels; that he had agreements with the
+committee of which he believed Mr. B. was ignorant; that everything
+was mismanaged; and, in fact, that if Mr. Burke had his way
+everything would go to the devil.
+
+On Friday the other waggons came up, and it was intended that some
+of the camels should fetch up what things we required, and that the
+remainder should be stored at McPherson's; but the camels were not
+to be found until late at night. On Saturday morning Mr. Landells
+and the Doctor went down with seventeen camels to the station, a
+distance of five miles, and, greatly to Mr. Burke's disgust, did
+not return until after dark. In the meantime the nine remaining
+camels had travelled off, and could not be found anywhere.
+
+On Sunday morning, McPherson sent a note to Mr. Burke, requesting
+him to come down, as all the shearers were drunk on some of the
+camels' rum, which they had obtained from the waggons. Mr. Burke
+hereupon expressed his determination, which he had previously
+mentioned to me, that he would leave the rum behind. Mr. Landells
+objected to this, and insisted on the necessity of taking it on,
+and told Mr. Burke, who was firm in his resolve, that he would not
+be responsible for the camels. Mr. B. said he should do as he
+pleased, and left the camp; and as soon as he was gone, Mr. L.
+called me to take delivery of the Government things in charge, as
+he intended to leave for Melbourne at once. He said that Mr. B. was
+mad, and he was frightened to stay in the tent with him. He then
+went off, telling me that he should deliver over the camels as soon
+as he could find them. It appears that he went down to the station,
+and on meeting the waggon-drivers on the road, told them that he
+was about to leave, so that every one in the camp knew it in a very
+short time. I should mention that everything was being got ready
+for a start; and on my mentioning to Mr. Burke what had passed, he
+said that he should take no notice of it until it was brought
+officially before him. When Mr. Landells returned, he asked Mr.
+Burke in my presence to dismiss him, which Mr. B. refused to do,
+but said that he would forward his resignation if he wished it,
+with a recommendation that he should receive his pay up to that
+time. This did not exactly satisfy Mr. L., who wished to appear
+before the public as the injured individual. He, nevertheless,
+expressed to me several times his fixed determination to stay no
+longer. He took an opportunity in the evening, in his tent, to give
+expression to opinions of his, which would not tend, if listened
+to, to raise a leader in the estimation of his officers. He said
+that Mr. B. was a rash, mad man; that he did not know what he was
+doing; that he would make a mess of the whole thing, and ruin all
+of us; that he was frightened at him; that he did not consider
+himself safe in the tent with him, and many other things. Some of
+this was said in the presence of the Doctor and Mr. Becker; but the
+most severe remarks were to me alone after they were gone. On
+Monday, Mr. Landells asked Hodgkinson to write out for him his
+resignation, and then in a private conversation, told Hodgkinson
+several things, which the latter thought it best to make a note of
+at once. Hodgkinson's statement is this--that Mr. Landells having
+asked him whether he could keep a secret, told him, after
+extracting a sort of promise about holding his tongue, that Mr.
+Burke wanted an excuse for discharging him, and that he had sent
+him with the camels with an order to him (Mr. Landells) to find
+fault with him for that purpose. On hearing this, Hodgkinson wanted
+to go to Mr. Burke and speak to him about it at once; but Landells
+prevented this by reminding him of his promise. This all came out
+owing to some remarks that Hodgkinson had made to me, and which I
+considered myself in duty bound to tell Mr. Burke. On Monday
+evening Mr. Landells was speaking to me about the best and quickest
+way of getting to town, when I suggested to him that he might be
+placing himself in a disagreeable position by leaving in such a
+hurry without giving any notice. He replied that he did not care,
+but that he meant to propose certain terms to Mr. Burke, which he
+read to me from his pocket-book, and on these terms only he would
+go:--"That Mr. Burke should give him a written agreement that he,
+Mr. L., should have full and unqualified charge of the camels, and
+that from that time Mr. B. should not interfere with them in any
+way; that they should travel no further nor faster than Mr. L.
+chose, and that he should be allowed to carry provisions for them
+to the amount of four camels' burthen." Just after this, Mr. B.
+came up and called Mr. L. aside, and, as the former told me, read
+to him a letter that he had written to accompany the resignation.
+The contents of this letter had a considerable effect on Mr. L.,
+who said that it was a pity they should have had any quarrel, and
+so acted on Mr. B.'s feelings, that he allowed him to withdraw his
+resignation. I believe that the information which had arrived about
+a steamer being on its way up the river had had a great influence
+in making Mr. Landells desirous to withdraw his resignation; but
+the chief reason was, no doubt, that he feared, from the concluding
+sentence of Mr. Burke's letter, that the committee would refuse him
+his pay.
+
+After this, everything appeared to be healed for a day or two; but
+on Wednesday, from various matters that had occurred, I considered
+it my duty to mention to Mr. Burke about Hodgkinson and some things
+that Mr. Landells had said to me; whereupon it came out that Mr. L.
+had been playing a fine game, trying to set us all together by the
+ears. To Mr. Burke he has been abusing and finding fault with all
+of us; so much so, that Mr. B. tells me that Landells positively
+hates me. We have, apparently, been the best of friends. To me, he
+has been abusing Mr. Burke, and has always spoken as if he hated
+the Doctor and Mr. Becker; whereas with them he has been all milk
+and honey. There is scarcely a man in the party whom he has not
+urged Mr. Burke to dismiss.
+
+Mr. Burke went ahead with the horses from Bilbarka, partly because
+he wanted to be here sooner than the rest, and partly in order to
+avoid a collision with Mr. Landells. He asked Dr. Beckler to
+accompany him, for we both expected that Mr. Landells would be
+tampering with him, as we found he had been with others; but the
+Doctor said that he preferred going with the camels, so that after
+the first day, when we found that Dr. Beckler would not go on with
+the horses, Mr. Burke took Mr. Becker and myself with him. We
+crossed the horses at a very good crossing at Kinchica, six miles
+below Menindie. Mr. Burke sent me up from there in the steamer,
+whilst he took the horses up. On our arrival, we found that Mr.
+Landells had ridden up also, having left the camels at Kinchica; he
+objected to making them swim the river, and wanted the steamer's
+barge to cross them over. This Mr. Burke refused, because the
+captain and every one else said that it would be a very dangerous
+experiment, from the difficulty of getting them on or off, which is
+no easy matter to do safely, even on a punt arranged for the
+purpose; and as for the barge, it can scarcely be brought within
+six feet of the bank; so Mr. Burke insisted on their swimming the
+river at Kinchica. After dinner we went down to assist in crossing
+them, but Mr. Landells said it was too late, and that he would
+cross them at ten o'clock next morning. On his remarking that there
+was no rope here, I mentioned that we had just brought one across
+with us, when he wanted to know what business I had to say
+anything. Altogether he made a great fool of himself before several
+of the men; and a Mr. Wright, the manager of the Kinchica station.
+For this Mr. Burke gave him an overhauling, and told him that if
+his officers misconducted themselves, he (Mr. B.) was the person to
+blow them up. Mr. Burke then told me, before Mr. Landells, that he
+wished me to be present at the crossing of the camels, at ten
+o'clock to-morrow.
+
+Mr. Landells then jumped up in a rage, asking Mr. Burke whether he
+intended that I should superintend him, and what he meant by
+desiring me to be present. Mr. Burke answered him that if he knew
+his place he would not ask such a question; that he had no right to
+ask it, and that he (Mr. B.) should give what orders he thought
+proper to his officers without considering himself responsible to
+Mr. L.; that Mr. Landells' conduct was insolent and improper, and
+that he would have no more of it. This was on Monday.
+
+On Tuesday morning Mr. L. sent in his resignation, and in the
+course of the day, Dr. Beckler followed his example, giving as his
+reason that he did not like the manner in which Mr. Burke spoke to
+Mr. Landells, and that he did not consider that the party was safe
+without Mr. Landells to manage the camels. Now there is no mistake,
+Dr. Beckler is an honest little fellow, and well-intentioned
+enough, but he is nothing of a bushman, although he has had so much
+travelling. Landells has taken advantage of his diffidence for his
+own purposes; and at the same time that he hates him, he has put on
+such a smooth exterior, that he has humbugged and hoodwinked him
+into the belief that no one can manage the camels but himself.
+
+. . .
+
+The upshot was that the committee accepted the resignations of Mr.
+Landells and Dr. Beckler, and expressed their entire approbation of
+the conduct of Mr. Burke.
+
+The following extract from the Melbourne leading journal, the
+"Argus,"--and with the view therein expressed all the other
+newspapers coincided--shows pretty clearly the state of public
+opinion on the question:--
+
+Whatever may be the interest attached to the
+communications respecting the Victorian Exploring Expedition, as
+read before the committee of the Royal Society, there can be little
+doubt but that the judgment pronounced on Mr. Landells remains
+unaltered. He deserted his leader on the eve of the fight; and such
+an act, so subversive of all discipline, and so far from the
+thoughts of the smallest drummer-boy, renders all explanations
+contemptible. In the present instance, Mr. Landells' explanations
+make his act the more inexcusable. He is still of opinion that the
+camels are indispensable to the safety of the party, and that he is
+indispensable to the safety of the camels. The inference is,
+therefore, that he knowingly left the party to perish. Indeed, we
+should not at all enter into an examination of Mr. Landells'
+letter, but that it may enable us to form some opinion as to the
+prospects of the expedition itself, and as to the suitability of
+Mr. Burke for its leadership.
+
+The charges brought against Mr. Burke by his late lieutenant,
+comprise almost everything that a commander should not be guilty
+of. His acts of commission and omission comprehend everything that
+a bad general could possibly commit or omit, and Mr. Landells winds
+up his bad qualities by asserting that he "cultivates the spy
+system," and treats his men like a parcel of "convicts." Not only
+is he "ungentlemanly" to his officers and "interfering with the
+best interests of the party"--not only has he "displayed such a
+want of judgment, candour, and decision;" but he has also shown, in
+addition to these and many other shortcomings, "such an entire
+absence of any and every quality which should characterize him as
+its leader, as has led to the conviction in my own mind that under
+his leadership the expedition will be attended by the most
+disastrous results."
+
+But in this matter we are not left to decide between Mr. Landells'
+account and Mr. Burke's account. Mr. Wills, the third officer, may
+be taken as an impartial observer, and his statement, a private
+communication to the head of the department to which he lately
+belonged, Professor Neumayer, is free from any suspicion of
+toadyism. From it we may find abundant reason for the conduct which
+Mr. Landells calls "strange." If Mr. Burke was restless at nights,
+hasty in the day, and apparently undecided what course to pursue,
+we have from this account of the matter only to wonder that he
+managed to bear with Mr. Landells so long as he did. Here the rage
+is all on Mr. Landells' side. "Mr. Landells then jumped up in a
+rage, asking Mr. Burke whether he intended that I should
+superintend him?" To talk, touch, or mention anything about his
+favourites, the camels, was sure to bring on "a scene." "On his
+remarking that there was no rope here, I mentioned that we had just
+brought one across with us, when he wanted to know what business I
+had to say anything. Altogether, he made a great fool of himself
+before several of the men, and a Mr. Wright, the manager of the
+Kinchica Station." These camels, under Mr. Landells' spoiling,
+appear to have become the plague of the expedition. They were to
+have rum--solely, as it now appears, because Mr. Landells "knew of
+an officer who took two camels through a two years' campaign in
+Cabul, the Punjab, and Scinde, by allowing them arrack." They were
+to carry more stores for themselves than they were worth. They were
+not to make long journeys, nor to travel in bad weather, nor to be
+subject to any one's direction, or opinion, or advice. In fine, the
+chief difficulty of exploring Australia seemed to consist in
+humouring the camels. We may imagine the feelings of a leader with
+such a drag as this encumbering him. Mr. Pickwick could never have
+viewed with such disgust the horse which he was obliged to lead
+about as Mr. Burke must have regarded his camels. When to this it
+is added that the leader observed various intrigues carried on, we
+cannot wonder that he determined to come to an open rupture before
+Mr. Landells and the camels had completely disorganized the
+expedition. "Whereupon it came out," writes Mr. Wills, "that Mr.
+Landells has been playing a fine game, trying to set us all
+together by the ears. There is scarcely a man in the party whom he
+has not urged Mr. Burke to dismiss." Under such a state of things,
+the leader of the expedition must have been painfully aware that
+his party was in no fit state of organization to enter on a most
+perilous undertaking, and that while such continued, both he and
+his men were going to inevitable destruction. If his conduct
+appeared to Mr. Landells restless and uncertain, we may wonder how,
+under the circumstances, it could be otherwise. We find it
+impossible to believe that the Exploring Committee of the Royal
+Society could have secretly informed Mr. Landells that he held
+independent command, for such a thing would be a burlesque on
+discipline. He claims the sole management of the camels; and
+perhaps the committee may have defined his duty as such. But so
+also has a private soldier the sole management of his musket, but
+it is under the directions of his officer. Profound as may be Mr.
+Landells' knowledge of camels, it would be worse than useless
+unless subject to the direction of his commanding officer.
+
+. . .
+
+Mr. Burke, on the resignation of Mr. Landells, immediately
+promoted my son to the post he had vacated, which appointment the
+committee confirmed. Here there was perfect union and reciprocal
+understanding. Neither had petty jealousies or reserved views. The
+success of the expedition was their object, and personal glory
+their aim. The leader had every confidence in his second, and the
+second was proud of his leader. But Mr. Burke committed an error in
+the selection of Mr. Wright for the third position in command,
+without any previous knowledge or experience of his capabilities.
+In this he acted from his impulsive nature, and the consequences
+bore heavily on his own and my son's fate. To the misconduct of Mr.
+Wright, in the words of the report of the Committee of Inquiry,
+"are mainly attributable the whole of the disasters of the
+expedition, with the exception of the death of Gray." In appearance
+and acquirements, there was nothing to recommend him. The gentleman
+suggested by Mr. Burke as a substitute for Dr. Beckler, most
+unjustly, according to general opinion, desired to supplant my son.
+This the majority of the committee refused to accede to, and Mr.
+Nicholson, the chief secretary, agreed with their decision. Others,
+including myself, offered to go; and a dispute, or rather a
+discussion arose on the matter, which produced delay, so that no
+one was sent at all. Another fatal mistake. It will be a source of
+sorrow and strong regret to me as long as I exist, that I did not,
+of my own will, push on to Menindie, where I might have been
+instrumental in saving one for whom I would willingly have risked
+my life. But no one then foresaw or expected the errors which
+caused the surviving travelers to perish on their return.
+
+But the actual cause of what might appear to be neglect on the part
+of the committee, in procrastinating the medical appointment, or
+other matters that were delayed, arose from the want of funds. The
+sum subscribed had been expended, and when Mr. Hodgkinson arrived
+at Melbourne, with Wright's despatch (written, however, by
+Hodgkinson), asking for cash, and a confirmation of his appointment
+as third in command, the committee had no balance at their
+disposal. His Excellency, Sir Henry Barkly, to prevent any
+misfortune on that ground, came forward on his personal guarantee,
+and became responsible until Parliament should again meet. The
+funds asked for by Wright, and even more, were granted; but I
+believe it would puzzle the committee, to this day, to find what
+became of them. One of the avowed objects was to purchase sheep;
+this, at least, was neglected. Hodgkinson fulfilled his mission
+zealously, and returned to Wright within as short a time as
+possible. But Wright lingered inactively at Menindie, allowed the
+proper time for following out the track of Mr. Burke to glide away
+and disgracefully broke faith with one who had too generously
+trusted him.
+
+One word more with respect to Mr. Landells. His assertion, believed
+by no rational person at the time, and emphatically denounced by
+Mr. Burke in his despatch as "false," that he had private
+instructions from the committee, rendering him in some respects
+independent of his leader, was utterly disproved by the evidence of
+Dr. Macadam, Honorary Secretary, related before the Royal
+Commission, who said in reply to Question 110: "We gave Mr.
+Landells no private instructions whatever; that has been answered
+over and over again."
+
+CHAPTER 7.
+
+From Menindie on the Darling to Torowoto. Mr. Burke's Despatch, and
+Mr. Wills's Report from Torowoto. Mr. Wright's unaccountable delay
+at Menindie. The Expedition proceeds onwards to Cooper's Creek.
+Exploring Trips in that Neighbourhood. Loss of Three Camels. Mr.
+Wills's Letter to his Sister, December 6th and 15th. Incorrectness
+of McDonough's Statements.
+
+THE incapables being happily disposed of, Mr. Burke and his party
+left Menindie on the 19th of October. The committee having decided
+on Cooper's Creek as the basis of his operations, he pushed on in
+that direction, and reached Torowoto on the 29th of the same month.
+From the latter encampment he forwarded the following despatch,
+including my son's surveying report.
+
+Torowoto, October 29, 1860.
+
+SIR,
+
+I have the honour to report, that I left Menindie on the 19th
+instant with the following party:--
+
+Messrs. Burke, Wills, Brahe, Patten, McDonough, King, Gray,
+Dost Mahomet, fifteen horses and sixteen camels, and Mr. Wright, who
+had kindly volunteered to show me a practical route towards
+Cooper's Creek, for a distance of a hundred miles from the Darling;
+and he has more than fulfilled his promise, for we have now
+travelled for upwards of 200 miles, generally through a fine
+sheep-grazing country; and we have not had any difficulty about
+water, as we found creeks, or waterholes, many of them having every
+appearance of permanent water, at distances never exceeding twenty
+miles. Mr. Wills's report, herewith forwarded, gives all the
+necessary details. Although travelling at the rate of twenty miles
+a day, the horses and camels have all improved in condition, and
+the country improves as we go on. Yesterday, from Wanominta to
+Paldrumata Creek, we travelled over a splendid grazing country, and
+to-day, we are encamped on a creek or swamp, the banks of which are
+very well grassed, and good feed all the way from our last camp
+(44), except for two miles, where the ground was barren and swampy.
+Of course it is impossible for me to say what effect an unusually
+dry summer would produce throughout this country, or whether we are
+now travelling in an unusually favourable season or not. I describe
+things as I find them.
+
+Mr. Wright returns from here to Menindie. I informed him that I
+should consider him third officer of the expedition, subject to the
+approval of the committee, from the day of our departure from
+Menindie, and I hope that they will confirm the appointment. In the
+mean time I have instructed him to follow me up with the remainder
+of the camels to Cooper's Creek, to take steps to procure a supply
+of jerked meat, and I have written to the doctor to inform him that
+I have accepted his resignation, as, although I was anxious to
+await the decision of the committee, the circumstances will not
+admit of delay, and he has positively refused to leave the settled
+districts. I am willing to admit that he did his best until his
+fears for the safety of the party overcame him; but these fears, I
+think, clearly show how unfit he is for his post. If Mr. Wright is
+allowed to follow out the instructions I have given him, I am
+confident that the result will be satisfactory; and if the
+committee think proper to make inquiries with regard to him they
+will find that he is well qualified for the post, and that he bears
+the very highest character. I shall proceed on from here to
+Cooper's Creek. I may, or may not, be able to send back from there
+until we are followed up. Perhaps it would not be prudent to divide
+the party; the natives here have told Mr. Wright that we shall meet
+with opposition on our way there. Perhaps I might find it advisable
+to leave a depot at Cooper's Creek, and to go on with a small party
+to examine the country beyond it.
+
+Under any circumstances it is desirable that we should soon be
+followed up. I consider myself very fortunate in having Mr. Wills
+as my second in command. He is a capital officer, zealous and
+untiring in the performance of his duties, and I trust that he will
+remain my second as long as I am in charge of the expedition.
+
+The men all conduct themselves admirably, and they are all most
+anxious to go on; but the committee may rely upon it that I shall
+go on steadily and carefully, and that I shall endeavour not to
+lose a chance or to run any unnecessary risk.
+
+I have the honour to be, Sir,
+
+Your most obedient servant,
+
+R. O'HARA BURKE, Leader.,
+
+P.S.--The two blacks and four horses go back with Mr. Wright.
+
+The following is a list of the camps from Menindie to this place:--
+
+October 19. Totoynya, a waterhole on the plains. . .Camp 35.
+
+October 20. Kokriega, well in the Scope Ranges. . .Camp 36.
+
+October 21. Bilpa Creek, do. . .Camp 37.
+
+October 22. Botoja Clay-pans. . .Camp 38.
+
+October 23. Langawirra Gully; Mount Doubeny Range. . .Camp 39.
+
+October 24. Bengora Creek, Mount Doubeny Range. . .Camp 40.
+
+October 25. Naudtherungee Creek. . .Camp 41.
+
+October 26. Teltawongee Creek. . .Camp 42.
+
+October 27. Wonominta Creek. . .Camp 43.
+
+October 28. A clay-pan on the plains. . .Camp 44.
+
+October 29. Torowoto Swamp...Camp 45.
+   Latitude, 30 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds south;
+   longitude, 142 degrees 27 minutes east.
+
+. . .
+
+October 30, 1860. Forwarded.
+
+R. O'HARA BURKE, Leader.
+
+Dr. Macadam, Secretary, Exploring Expedition.
+
+. . .
+
+FROM MR. WILLS, SECOND IN COMMAND, ASTRONOMER AND SURVEYOR OF
+THEPARTY.
+
+SURVEYOR'S REPORT.
+
+The country, Bilbarka and Tolarno, in the immediate vicinity of the
+eastern bank of the River Darling, presents the most barren and
+miserable appearance of any land that we have yet met with. It
+consists chiefly of mud flats, covered with polygonum bushes, box
+timber, and a few salsolaceous plants, of inferior quality. Above
+Tolarno there is a slight improvement, and between Kinchica and
+Menindie there is some fair grazing country. All agree in saying
+that there is fine grazing land back from the river; but the want
+of water will probably prevent its being occupied, except in a very
+partial manner, for many years; and I fear that the high sand
+ridges, twenty to forty feet, and in some cases more than sixty
+feet above the level of the river banks, will form almost
+insuperable barriers in the way of any one who may attempt to
+conduct water from the river by means of canals. It appears to me,
+from the information that I have been able to obtain, that the
+difficulties with which settlers have here to contend arise not so
+much from the absorbent nature of the soil as from the want of
+anything to absorb. This last season is said to have been the most
+rainy that they have had for several years; yet everything looked
+so parched up that I should have imagined it had been an
+exceedingly dry one.
+
+Gales.--I noticed that the forests for about 30 miles below
+Menindie had been subjected to severe gales from west-north-west.
+This was so striking, that I at first thought it was the effect of
+a hurricane; but I could find no indications of a whirling force,
+all the trees and branches lying in the same direction; besides
+which, they seemed to have been torn down at various times, from
+the different stages of decay in which they were found; and Mr.
+Wright has subsequently informed me that almost every spring they
+have a gale from west-north-west, which lasts but a short time, but
+carries everything before it. It is this same strip of country
+which is said to be more favoured with rain than that lower down.
+
+Sand Drifting.--One can perceive everywhere in the neighbourhood of
+Menindie, the effect of the winds in shifting the sand, by the
+numerous logs in various stages of inhumation.
+
+The Darling Pea.--It appears to be a disputed question, even on the
+river, as to the effect of the Darling pea on horses, some
+asserting that they become cranky simply from eating that herb, and
+others that it is starvation that makes them mad. I could get no
+satisfactory information even as to the symptoms, which seem to
+vary considerably; but this I had from a reliable source, that
+horses will eat the pea in large quantities without being
+injuriously affected, provided they can obtain other food as well;
+but that when they are on portions of the river where they can get
+nothing else to eat, then they soon get an attack of madness.
+
+Menindie to Scrope Ranges.--The country between Menindie and
+Kokriega, in the Scrope Ranges, a distance of thirty-six miles in a
+northerly direction, is a fine open tract of country, well grassed,
+but having no permanent water. At Kokriega there is a well which
+may be relied on for a small supply, but would be of no use in
+watering cattle in large numbers. The ranges are composed of
+ferruginous sandstone and quartz conglomerate, and as to vegetation
+are of a very uninviting aspect. The plain to the south is covered
+with quartz and sandstone pebbles. About five miles to the
+north-east of the Kokriega is a spot where the schist rock crops
+out from under the sandstone, and the rises here have somewhat of
+an auriferous character.
+
+North of the Scrope Range.--To the north of the Scrope Range the
+country has much the same appearance, except that there are more
+trees, and no stones until one reaches the Mount Doubeny Ranges, a
+distance of nearly forty miles. At a spot half way, named Botoga,
+there are some flats well calculated for collecting and retaining
+rain water.
+
+Mount Doubeny Range.--In this range there are, no doubt, many
+places where permanent water may be found in considerable
+quantities. Two places I may mention where the water is certainly
+permanent--Mutwongee, a gully midway between camps 39 and 40; and
+Bengora Creek, the latter camp.
+
+Country North of Mount Doubeny.--From these ranges up to our
+present position we have passed over as good grazing country as one
+would wish to see; salt bushes of every kind, grass in abundance,
+and plenty of water. Amongst the ranges we found kangaroo grass as
+high as our shoulders, and on the plains the spear grass up to our
+knees.
+
+Naudtherungee Creek.--At this creek, which takes its rise near
+Mount Lyell, and probably flows into the McFarlane's Creek of
+Sturt, we found a small shallow pond of water, in the sandy bed of
+the creek. This did not look very promising, but on digging I found
+that the whole bed of the creek was a mass of loose sand, through
+which the water freely permeated, and that the waterhole we found
+was only a spot where, the level of the surface of the sand being
+below that of the water, the latter oozed through. I am informed by
+Mr. Wright, who was here in January last, that the creek contained
+much more water then than now.
+
+Country North of Naudtherungee Creek.--For a few miles to the north
+of this creek the ground is very sandy, and timbered with pines,
+acacias, and several descriptions of trees with which I am
+unacquainted. There are two very handsome trees that I have never
+seen in any other part of the country--the leopard tree (called so
+from its spotted bark), and a tree which in general appearance much
+resembles the poplar. On these sandhills the grass is very coarse,
+but in the flats there is good feed. Beyond the sand rises the
+country becomes more open again; and at about twelve or thirteen
+miles one comes to quartz rises, from which there is a fine view to
+the east, north, and west. Two creeks are distinctly visible by the
+lines of gum timber; they take their rise near some hills to the
+eastward, and passing around towards the north, join at a point
+about three miles north-west, from whence the resulting creek
+continues in a west-north-westerly direction, as far as the eye can
+reach. The hills are composed of an argillaceous schist. On several
+of the lower rises, quartz reefs crop out, and some of the quartz
+which I examined had every appearance of being auriferous, except
+the main one--the colour of the gold. There are some fine
+waterholes in the first creek (Teltawongee), but I cannot say for
+certain that the water is permanent. The whole of the country from
+here to our next camp, a distance of twenty six miles, is the
+finest I have seen for collecting and retaining water; and the only
+question as to a permanent supply of that essential liquid is,
+whether this part of the country is subject to long-continued
+droughts; for the waterholes that we have met with are not large
+enough to last for any great length of time, in the event of the
+country being stocked. At ten miles from Teltawongee, we came to
+the Wonominta--a creek having all the characteristics of
+water-courses that take their rise in hills of schistoze formation.
+At first, the numberless small waterholes, without the trace of a
+creek connecting them, then the deep-cut narrow channel, with every
+here and there a fine waterhole. The banks of the creek are clothed
+with high grass and marshmallows. The latter grow to an immense
+size on nearly all the creeks out here.
+
+The Wonominta Ranges are high, bare-looking hills, lying to the
+eastward of the creek; the highest peaks must be between two and
+three thousand feet above the sea. The blacks say that there is no
+water in them--an assertion that I can scarcely credit. They say,
+however, that there is a fine creek, with permanent water, to the
+east of the ranges, flowing northwards. At the point of the
+Wonominta Creek where we camped there is a continuous waterhole of
+more than a mile long, which, they say, is never dry. It is from
+fifteen to twenty feet broad, and averages about five feet in
+depth, as near as I could ascertain. From this point, Camp 43, the
+creek turns to the north-west and around to north, where it enters
+a swamp, named Wannoggin; it must be the same that Sturt crossed in
+coming across from Evelyn Plains. In going over to Wannoggin, a
+distance of fourteen miles, I found the plains everywhere
+intersected by small creeks, most of them containing water, which
+was sheltered from the sun by the overhanging branches of drooping
+shrubs, tall marshmallows, and luxuriant salt bushes; and at some
+of them were hundreds of ducks and waterhens. When crossing some
+flats of light-coloured clay soil, near Wannoggin, and which were
+covered with box timber, one might almost fancy himself in another
+planet, they were so arid and barren. The Wannoggin Swamp is at
+present dry, but I believe it is generally a fine place for water.
+Birds are very numerous about there, and I noticed that by far the
+greater portion of the muslka trees (a species of acacia) contained
+nests, either old or new.
+
+At about twenty miles from Wonominta, in a north-north-easterly
+direction, there is a fine creek, with a waterhole about a mile
+long, which we passed; and Mr. Wright tells me there is a larger
+one further up the creek.
+
+The land in the neighbourhood of the Torowoto Swamp is very fine
+for pastoral purposes. It is rather low and swampy, and therefore
+better for cattle than for sheep. There appears to be a gradual
+fall in the land from Totoynya to this place, amounting to about
+500 feet. This swamp can scarcely be more than 600 feet above the
+sea, if so much. The highest ground over which we have passed has
+been in the Mount Doubeny Ranges, from Langawirra to Bengora, and
+that appears to be about 1000 feet above the sea. Mount Bengora is,
+by barometrical observation, about 300 feet above the camp at
+Bengora, but it is not the highest peak in the range by perhaps
+fifty or sixty feet; and I think we may assume that the highest
+peak does not exceed 1,500 feet above the sea.
+
+Meteorogical.--We have been very fortunate up to the present time
+as regards the weather, both in having had plenty of water and
+moderate temperatures. The thermometer has never risen above 88.5
+degrees in the shade, and has seldom been below 50 degrees, the
+average daily range having been from 58 to 80 degrees. During our
+stay on the Darling, the temperature of the water varied very
+slightly, being always between 65 and 67 degrees. The winds have
+generally been light, frequently going all round the compass in the
+course of the day; but in any case it has almost invariably fallen
+calm after sunset. Cirri and cirrostratus clouds have been very
+prevalent during the day, and cumulostratus during the night.
+
+Wells and Creeks.--The temperature of the water in the well at
+Kokriega, at ten A.M. October 21, was 58.5 degrees, being exactly
+the same as the temperature of the air. That of the water between
+the rocks, at Bilpa, at five P.M. on the same day, was 64 degrees,
+the temperature of air being 75 degrees. The temperature of the
+water in the sand at Naudtherungee, at seven A.M. on the 26th, was
+59.5 degrees, that of the air being 62 degrees. At five A.M.
+October 28, the temperature of the water in Wonominta Creek was 63.
+5 degrees, that of the air being 62 degrees.
+
+Note.--The temperature of the water is always taken within six
+inches of the surface.
+
+. . .
+
+The Royal Commission of Inquiry censured Mr. Burke for
+the appointment of Mr. Wright, without personal knowledge of him;
+and, judging by the lamentable results, a grave mistake it was. But
+Mr. Burke was placed in great difficulty by the resignation of Mr.
+Landells and Dr. Beckler, and acted to the best of his judgment
+under the circumstances, with the means at his disposal. His
+confidence, too hastily bestowed, was repaid by ingratitude and
+contumely. Wright never spoke of his commander without using terms
+of disparagement, and dwelling on his incapacity. "He was gone to
+destruction," he said, "and would lose all who were with him." He
+repeated these words to me, and others even stronger, both in
+Melbourne and in Adelaide. McDonough, in his evidence before the
+Royal Commission, was asked, "What did you say as to Mr. Wright's
+desponding?" He answered (436): "He always gave Mr. Burke up as
+lost; said he was neither gone to Queensland nor anywhere else; the
+man has rushed madly on, depending upon surface water, and is lost
+in the desert. He never gave us any hope for him; in fact, so much
+so, that I offered to make a bet that he would be found at
+Queensland, or turn up somewhere."
+
+It has been seen by Mr. Burke's despatch of the 29th of October,
+that he gave orders to Mr. Wright to follow him up to Cooper's
+Creek with the remainder of the camels and supplies, without
+unnecessary delay. McDonough states (Answer 197) that Mr. Burke
+said to him, on the 15th of December, "I expect Mr. Wright up in a
+few days--a fortnight at farthest. I left him POSITIVE INSTRUCTIONS
+to follow me." King states (Answer 693) "that on the 16th of
+December, Mr. Burke told the party 'he then expected Mr. Wright
+daily.'" Wright himself states in his evidence (Answer 1235), "I
+gave Mr. Burke my word that I would take the remainder of the party
+out, as soon as I returned to Menindie."
+
+A circumstance happened about this time, (December 1860), which
+delayed him, but not even that necessarily. Information reached
+Melbourne that Mr. Stuart had nearly penetrated to the Gulf of
+Carpentaria, more to the westward; that he had been driven back by
+the natives, but would start again immediately. The Committee
+thought it advisable to forward the intelligence to Mr. Burke. This
+was done by a despatch to Swan Hill, where Mr. Foster was
+superintendent of police. He accordingly sent on a trooper named
+Lyons, who followed in the track of the party, and arrived at
+Menindie just as Wright returned with his two natives, after
+escorting the expedition to Torowoto. Lyons refused to give up the
+despatch, as he had been ordered to place it in Mr. Burke's own
+hands. Here was a plausible excuse for Wright, no doubt, so he sent
+McPherson, a saddler by trade, who had been engaged en route by Mr.
+Burke, accompanied by Dick, a native, to assist Lyons in his
+pursuit of the leader. Had he put himself and the whole party in
+motion at once, the subsequent misfortunes would have been averted.
+Lyons and McPherson lost their way, being quite unable to overtake
+Mr. Burke, who had eight days' start, travelling at the rate of
+twenty miles a day. Neither had they ingenuity enough to find Mr.
+Burke's tracks, although accompanied by a native, which is
+inexplicable, if they trusted to Dick, who had both intelligence
+and energy of purpose. He found his way back to Wright, however,
+and was thus the means of saving the lives of the trooper and
+McPherson.
+
+Hodgkinson, we have seen, was despatched by Wright to Melbourne,
+from Menindie, on the 19th of December, with letters assuming to be
+written by himself, but, in fact, by Hodgkinson. Whether the
+committee knew this does not appear: if they did not, here was one
+reason for confirming Wright's appointment. Hodgkinson reached
+Melbourne on the morning of the 30th, riding nearly four hundred
+miles in eleven days. A meeting of the committee was called on
+Monday, the 31st, at which his Excellency attended, and Hodgkinson
+started on his return the same evening. This certainly was
+business. Nearly double the sum that he had asked was allowed to
+Wright, in cash. From the 5th of November, he lingered at Menindie,
+until the 19th of December, doing nothing. He says he was waiting
+for an answer to a letter he had previously sent. Dr. Macadam, the
+Secretary, denies that he ever received such a letter. Wright is
+here unworthy of credit, for he could not write. This was extracted
+from himself, after considerable fencing, in his examination before
+the Commission on the 12th of December, 1861:--
+
+MR. WM. WRIGHT further examined.
+
+Question 1565. There is evidently some discrepancy between
+the statement that you wrote yourself on the 5th of November, when
+you came back, and the statement of Dr. Macadam that no such letter
+was ever received. This letter of yours of the 19th of December, is
+it written by yourself?--The one I sent myself?
+
+1566. The one of the 19th of December, is it in your own
+handwriting?--The one that is missing?
+
+1567. No; this one [handing a paper to the witness]?--No, it is
+not; Hodgkinson did all the writing.
+
+1568. Did he write the one that is stated to be missing?--No, he
+did not.
+
+1569. You wrote that one?--I wrote that with my own hand. I just
+wrote a few words.
+
+1570. Could your memory serve you sufficiently to write the purport
+of that letter that is missing?--It would not.
+
+1571. Nothing approaching to it?--I never thought for a moment of
+keeping a copy of it, or of giving it to Hodgkinson to keep a copy.
+
+1572. Have you no recollection of the general purport of it?--I
+just mentioned that Mr. Burke had appointed me to take the party
+out and take the command; that is about the heads of it.
+
+1573. Have you any objection to write a letter similar to that one,
+as nearly as you can remember it?--No. I write a very indifferent
+hand.
+
+1574. Which was the reason, it is to be presumed, why you got some
+one to write the letter of the 19th?--Yes.
+
+Hodgkinson arrived at Menindie on the 9th of January, 1861, and
+immediately placed in Wright's hands the following letter:--
+
+Melbourne, December 31st.
+
+SIR,
+
+Your despatch of the 19th instant, forwarded per Mr. Hodgkinson,was
+laid before a meeting of the members of the Exploration Committee
+held this day, when the following resolutions were carried
+unanimously:
+
+1. That a letter be forwarded to Mr. Wright, informing him that his
+appointment as third in command of the Victorian Expedition, by Mr.
+Burke, has been approved of and confirmed by this committee.
+
+2. That Mr. Wright, third officer of the Victorian Expedition, be
+empowered to procure a number of horses (not more than ten), and
+the necessary accoutrements; and also one hundred and fifty (say
+150) sheep, and be authorized to draw on the treasurer, the
+Honourable David E. Wilkie, M.D., M.L.C., for an amount not
+exceeding four hundred (say 400) pounds sterling, for their
+purchase, and other necessary incidental expenses.
+
+I have further to inform you that Mr. Hodgkinson, who returns as
+the bearer of this despatch, will hand you an order from Mr.
+Superintendent Foster, of Swan Hill, to obtain from trooper Lyons
+the despatches for the leader, now in the possession of that
+officer, and which it is desired you should hand to Mr. Burke.
+
+It is hoped by the committee, that trooper Lyons and saddler
+Macpherson have safely returned to the camp, and you will kindly
+report as to the manner in which the former has endeavoured to
+carry out the duty committed to his charge.
+
+The medal for Dick, the aboriginal guide, bearing a suitable
+inscription, is forwarded with this despatch, and the committee
+leave in your hands the bestowal of such additional reward as you
+may deem proper--not exceeding five guineas (say 5 pounds 5
+shillings.)
+
+Captain Cadell informed the committee to-day that his store at
+Menindie would be at your service for depositing any articles you
+may find it inconvenient to remove to Cooper's Creek at present.
+
+You will endeavour to secure, if possible, twelve pommel
+pack-saddles, now arrived, it is believed, on the Darling. These
+were forwarded via Adelaide, and will no doubt be of great use to
+the main party.
+
+The committee desire that on your meeting with Mr. Burke, you will
+show him, and deposit with him, this despatch, as also a copy of
+yours of the 19th instant, together with copies of all despatches
+you may forward to the committee during Mr. Burke's absence; and
+the committee expect that you will communicate under such
+circumstances as frequently as possible.
+
+Mr. Hodgkinson bears letters for the leader and Mr. Wills.
+
+In conclusion, it is hoped that your endeavours to remove the
+stores from your present depot to Cooper's Creek will be early and
+successfully accomplished.
+
+I have the honour to be, sir,
+
+Your obedient servant,
+
+(Signed) JOHN MACADAM, M.D., Secretary.
+
+To Mr. Wright, third in command, temporary depot, Plurarmora Creek,
+Darling River, New South Wales.
+
+. . .
+
+Nothing can be clearer than the instructions herein conveyed; yet in
+the face of them, Wright made no start until the 26th of January.
+His answers to the Royal Commission were full of contradictions,
+but to the main question of his delay he gave no answer at all.
+From my own inquiries I never could make out that any one at
+Menindie thought him fit for the post, or undertook to recommend
+him. Captain Cadell did to the committee, but with Mr. Burke,
+Captain Cadell was not on speaking terms.
+
+Mr. Burke and my son proceeded onwards, accompanied by the reduced
+party, consisting of Brahe, King, Gray, Patten, McDonough, and Dost
+Mahomet, fifteen horses and sixteen camels, on the 29th of
+September, 1860, and reached Cooper's Creek on the 11th of
+November, a distance of about 250 miles. Here my son went out
+occasionally, taking a man with him, to explore the country, far
+and near. His great desire was to reach Carpentaria by the shortest
+practicable cut, and he inclined to a direct northern course, or to
+the eastward of north. The committee represented afterwards, as
+prominently as they could put it, that Mr. Burke was left
+unshackled on this point, but still suggestions were offered, which
+a leader naturally considers he is expected to listen to. One of
+these was, that on leaving Cooper's Creek they should proceed
+towards Eyre's Creek and Sturt's Farthest (September, 1845); for
+which I refer the reader to the map. My son could not see the
+wisdom of this, as Sturt had declared that beyond that point he saw
+nothing but an impenetrable desert. McDouall Stuart's return to
+Adelaide was also reported, and that he was about to start again:
+it therefore became a rival race as to who should reach the goal
+first.
+
+With reference to my son's exploration trips during the halt at
+Cooper's Creek, Mr. Brahe, on his examination before the Royal
+Commission, gave the following particulars:--
+
+We travelled down the creek; our first camp on Cooper's Creek
+was Camp 57; from some of the first camps Mr. Wills went out
+exploring the creek.
+
+Question 148. How long did you remain at the first camp?--One
+night; at the second camp, two days; and at the third camp, two
+days; and from each camp Mr. Wills went down tracing the creek.
+
+149. And you remained two days at each camp for three camps down
+the creek?--Yes.
+
+150. Was the third camp the final camp formed on the creek?--No, at
+the 63rd camp the first depot was formed. We remained there a
+fortnight.
+
+151. At the 63rd camp?--Yes, that would be the fifth or sixth camp
+on the creek.
+
+152. What were you doing that fortnight?--Mr. Wills was exploring
+the country to the north; Mr. Burke was out with him once; Mr.
+Burke was out with me first, and we could not go far enough with
+horses, not finding any water away from the camp.
+
+153. How far did you go?--About twenty-five miles straight; the
+weather being very hot we could not go further: we had to return
+the second day to the camp.
+
+151. Then Mr. Wills went out by himself?--He went ninety miles; he
+took McDonough with him and three camels.
+
+155. And he lost one of his camels, did he not?--He lost the three
+and returned on foot.
+
+156. Was he much weakened by that journey?--Not Mr. Wills.
+
+157. But McDonough was?--Rather.
+
+158. Did they suffer from want of food as well as want of water?
+--No, only from want of water.
+
+159. How long did you remain after that before there was a final
+start again?--I believe we started two or three days after that.
+Mr. Wills went out a second time from that camp with King and only
+two camels to bring down those things that he had left where he
+lost the camels.
+
+160. How far was that from the creek?--Ninety miles.
+
+161. And he went out with King and two camels for the things that
+he had left behind when he lost his camels and brought them back?
+--Yes; and on the same day, or the day after, when Mr. Wills went
+out on that second journey, Mr. Burke removed the depot to the
+lower place.
+
+162. Did those camels lost by Mr. Wills ever turn up?--I believe
+two of them have been found near Adelaide.
+
+163. In the meantime you went down to the last depot?--Yes.
+
+164. How long did you remain there?--Mr. Burke started from there
+about five or six days after Mr. Wills returned from that second
+journey.
+
+. . .
+
+My son gives his own account of the exploration when the camels were
+lost, in the following letter to his sister:--
+
+Cooper's Creek, December 6th, 1860. Latitude 27 degrees 36 minutes,
+Longitude 141 degrees 30 seconds.
+
+MY DEAR BESSY,
+
+You must excuse my writing with a pencil; ink dries so rapidly that
+it is a nuisance to use it. We have been here now about three
+weeks, and shall, I expect, make a start northwards in about a
+fortnight. Our journey to this point has been interesting, but not
+in any particular that you will care much about. Our party here
+consists of eight men, sixteen camels, and fourteen horses. We
+expect the rest of the men and camels up in a few weeks. Everything
+has been very comfortable so far; in fact, more like a picnic party
+than a serious exploration: but I suppose we shall have some little
+difficulties to contend with soon. I had an intimation of something
+of the kind a few days ago, having been out reconnoitring the
+country to the north for three days, with one man and three camels,
+and had found no water, so that the animals were very thirsty, and
+on the third night managed to get away from us, leaving us about
+eighty miles from the main camp, without hay or water, except what
+remained of that which we had brought with us; so here was nothing
+for it, but to walk home as soon as we could, carrying as much
+water as possible, to be drunk on the way. After searching about in
+order to be sure that the camels had gone home, we started at about
+half-past seven, and were lucky enough to find a creek with some
+water in it about ten miles on, where we remained until evening;
+for it is dry work travelling in the middle of the day, with the
+thermometer varying from 90 to 105 degrees in the shade, and about
+140 degrees in the sun. Well, we started again in the evening and
+walked until between nine and ten P.M.; and again at three A.M. and
+pushed on until midday. We then went on from five P.M., as before,
+until nine P.M.; and then from two A.M., and reached the camp at
+nine A.M., having walked more than eighty miles in rather less than
+fifty hours, including sleeping, feeding, and all stoppages. We
+found no water all the way, except what I have mentioned above, so
+that, as you may imagine, we ran rather short towards the end of
+our journey, having not quite half a pint left between us. When we
+stopped to rest the second night, it had been blowing a hot wind
+all day, with the thermometer at 107 degrees in the shade. This
+made us require more water than usual. I can assure you there is
+nothing like a walk of this sort to make one appreciate the value
+of a drink of cold water. We feel no inclination for anything else,
+and smack our lips over a drop such as you would not think of
+tasting, with as much relish as ever any one did over the best
+sherry or champagne. I have enjoyed myself so far. It is now nearly
+four months since we left Melbourne, and you will see by the map
+that we are about half-way across the continent. I hope by the time
+that this reaches you we shall not only have been entirely across,
+but back here again, and possibly on our way to Melbourne. There is
+no probability of the expedition lasting two or three years. I
+expect to be in town again within twelve months from the time of
+starting. I enclose a few chrysanthemums from the Australian
+desert. I know you will highly prize them. To give you an idea of
+Cooper's Creek, fancy extensive flat, sandy plains, covered with
+herbs dried like hay, and imagine a creek or river, somewhat
+similar in appearance and size to the Dart above the Weir, winding
+its way through these flats, having its banks densely clothed with
+gum trees and other evergreens:--so far there appears to be a
+considerable resemblance, but now for the difference. The water of
+Cooper's Creek is the colour of flood-water in the Dart; the latter
+is a continuous running stream; Cooper's Creek is only a number of
+waterholes. In some places it entirely disappears, the water in
+flood-time spreading all over the flats and forming no regular
+channel. The flies are very numerous, so that one can do nothing
+without having a veil on; and whilst eating the only plan is to
+wear goggles.
+
+. . .
+
+His next letter is written with ink:--
+
+December 15th.
+
+DEAR BESSY,
+
+Since scribbling the above, I have been up to the place from
+whence I had the walk I mentioned. The camels did not get away this
+time. We have shifted our quarters to a better place, about twenty
+miles down the creek. To-morrow we start for Eyre’s Creek, about
+two hundred miles towards the Una. There have been heavy
+thunderstorms towards the north, and I hope we shall find plenty of
+water. If so, I shall soon be able to send you a good long letter
+without resorting to the use of a pencil. I wish I could send mamma
+a few lines, but she must read yours and fancy it written to her: I
+have not even time to send a line to my father. Tell mamma that I
+am getting into that robust state of health that I always enjoy
+when in the bush; a tremendous appetite, and can eat anything. One
+of our chief articles of consumption is horseflesh: it is very
+nice; you would scarcely know it from beef. Give my love to all,
+and
+
+Believe me,
+
+Ever your affectionate brother,
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS.
+
+. . .
+
+Here we find my son, between the 1st and 15th of December,
+travelling about five hundred miles, and walking from eighty to
+ninety. McDonough, in his examination, gave altogether a falsified
+account respecting the loss of the camels, as he also made a
+bombastic statement of his great intimacy with Mr. Burke. The real
+truth is, that McDonough was the least trustworthy of the party. He
+would not have been taken by my son, but in the morning Mr. Burke
+had volunteered to accompany him, so that McDonough would not have
+been left alone; but after travelling a short distance, Mr. Burke
+did not feel well, and returned. At the place mentioned by my son
+as having dismounted, he told McDonough that he wished to make some
+observations, and was going to a rising ground at a distance; that
+the camels should feed, but he was not to lose sight of them for an
+instant. Instead of attending to his instructions, McDonough set to
+work to light a fire and boil his pannikin. Perhaps he went to
+sleep; for he pointed out some stunted bushes in the distance and
+said they were the camels. My son then sent him to search for them,
+but they could not be found. King, the only survivor of the party,
+on his examination, said:--
+
+Mr. Wills told me that the camels were lost through
+McDonough's neglect during the time he was writing and taking
+observations.
+
+Question 1737. McDonough never disputed that, did he?--McDonough
+told me that it was while they were at supper in the evening; but I
+do not see how that could be, because they generally took supper,
+and ourselves, about six o'clock; and it was so dark that they
+could not see the camels, so that they were most likely lost when
+Mr. Wills was taking observations.
+
+. . .
+
+Mr. Burke, in his report from Cooper's Creek, dated December
+the 13th, says:--"Mr. Wills, upon one occasion, travelled ninety
+miles to the north, without finding water, when his camels escaped,
+and he and the man who accompanied him were obliged to return on
+foot, which they accomplished in forty-eight hours. Fortunately,
+upon their return they found a pool of water. The three camels have
+not yet been recovered. . .Mr. Wills co-operates cordially with me.
+He is a most zealous and efficient officer."
+
+King, in the course of his evidence stated as follows:--
+
+Question 667. What did you do when you got to Cooper's Creek;
+did you go on any of these expeditions with Mr. Burke or Mr. Wills?
+--Yes; when Mr. Burke made our first depot at the creek, Mr. Burke,
+Mr. Wills, and McDonough started one morning to try and find water
+some distance to the north. Mr. Burke seemed not to be well, and
+returned after going a mile or so, and so McDonough and Mr. Wills
+continued, and were away some few days; I do not know the exact
+number of days; they lost the camels (three in number) and had to
+return to the depot on foot.
+
+668. After a few days?--Yes; after a few days.
+
+669. Did you go out yourself on that expedition?--Not then; a few
+days after, Mr. Burke, Mr. Wills, and myself went to a distance of
+about seventy miles north; we could not find water; Mr. Wills found
+water when he and McDonough went before.
+
+670. Did you go the same track as they did?--Yes; but I do not know
+how Mr. Wills could not find it; he seemed not to recognize the
+place.
+
+671. Did you lose any horses or camels then?--None; we just rested,
+and Mr. Wills and myself went the third time, and found the water
+at a distance of about ninety miles to the north, and we also had
+to bring the camel saddles, and riding saddles, which Mr. Burke
+intended to take with him across the continent.
+
+CHAPTER 8.
+
+Mr. Wills's Survey of the line of Country pursued by the
+Expedition, from Torowoto Swamp to Cooper's Creek.
+
+THE following reports, which were duly forwarded and published,
+contain interesting particulars of the country traversed, and the
+observations made between Torowoto and Cooper's Creek. They were
+accompanied by a tracing, which is shown on the map.
+
+Camp 65, Depot, Cooper's Creek, December 15th, 1860.
+
+SIR,
+
+I have had the honour to place in the hands of our leader, for
+transmission to the committee, my third report, and a tracing,
+showing the country traversed since my last was written. I regret
+that I have been unable to devote as much attention to either as I
+could have desired; but I have no doubt the committee will make due
+allowance for my want of time, and the inconveniences attending the
+execution of such work in our present position.
+
+I have, etc.
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS, Surveyor and Assistant Observer.
+
+The Honorary Secretary of the Exploration Committee.
+
+(Forwarded).
+
+Depot, December 16, 1860.
+
+As Mr. Wills's report, with which I fully concur, contains all the
+necessary details with regard to the state of the country through
+which we passed, I have not referred to the subject in mine.
+
+R. O'HARA BURKE, Leader.
+
+The Honorary Secretary of the Exploration Committee.
+
+The accompanying tracing will show the course taken by the
+expedition party from the Torowoto Swamp, in latitude 30 degrees 1
+minute 30 seconds south, longitude 142 degrees 36 minutes east, to
+the depot on Cooper's Creek, Camp 65, latitude 27 degrees 37
+minutes 8 seconds south, longitude 141 degrees 6 minutes east.
+
+Water supply between Torowoto and Wright's Creek.--The country
+traversed to the north of the Torowoto Swamp, and lying between
+that place and Wright's Creek, is neither so well grassed nor
+watered as that to the south of the Swamp; the land falls
+considerably as far as Cangapundy, and a great extent of it is
+subject to inundation. Nearly all the water met with was thick and
+muddy: it was met with in small clay pans, most of which would
+probably be dry in three weeks. This applies to all the places at
+which we found water, with the exception of Cannilta, Cangapundy,
+--and the four waterholes to the south of Wright's Creek.
+
+Cannilta.--Cannilta is a waterhole of good clear water in a small
+rocky creek which runs out on the low mud flats and swampy ground
+lying between Altoka and Tangowoko: it is situated in latitude 29
+degrees 26 minutes 42 seconds south, longitude 142 degrees 40
+minutes east, by account, nearly a mile from the north-westernmost
+point of the swampy ground. This point may be distinguished by the
+growth of a coarse kind of reedy grass, which does not make its
+appearance on the southern portion of the swamp or lake. The water
+in the hole was only two or three feet deep, but is well shaded by
+box trees, and will probably last two or three months. The
+temperature of the surface of the water at seven A.M., 2nd of
+November, was 60.5 degrees; that of the air being at the same time
+60 degrees.
+
+The Cangapundy Swamp.--The Cangapundy Swamp is an extensive tract
+of low clay land, which bears the appearance, as regards the
+vegetation of its banks, of having a tolerably permanent supply of
+water; but, unless some portions of the swamp are much deeper than
+where we passed, the water could not last throughout a dry season.
+The banks of the swamp are densely clothed with grasses,
+marshmallows, polygonum bushes, and shrubs, which shelter numerous
+kinds of waterfowl and snakes.
+
+Character of Land.--It will be seen by the tracing that a large
+proportion of the land between Torowoto and Wright's Creek is
+composed of low mud plains and clay flats, subject to inundation.
+Most of these are devoid of vegetation of any kind, and others
+carry some stunted salt bushes and coarse grasses, which appear to
+be struggling between life and death. Bounding the mud-flats are
+generally some stony rises well grassed and sometimes lightly
+timbered. The more elevated plains are sandy, and support a fine
+supply of healthy salt bushes, as well as here and there a few
+grasses. On the rises to the south-south-east of Cannilta may be
+seen great quantities of quartz rock, forming dykes in the schist
+rises: the latter in some places adjoin, and run into hills of
+loose stone, having the appearance of indurated clay. From
+Cangapundy to Wright's Creek the ground is light-coloured, and of a
+clayey nature: it forms a series of dry clay-pans, separated from
+one another by low sandy banks, on which the vegetation was fresh
+and green. At about seventeen miles from the former place are three
+large holes with water from two to three feet deep in the deepest
+part, and at six miles further another large one which might almost
+be termed a lake, being nearly 1000 links square. About these there
+were some lines of sandhills running about north-east and
+south-west; and in one of the flats between the sandhills I found
+several pieces of satin spar in lumps of the size of one's hand,
+partially buried in the ground, and all of them with the plane of
+cleavage nearly perpendicular with the surface to the ground.
+
+Balloo, or Wright's Creek.--The lower portion of Wright's Creek,
+called by the natives "Balloo," is situated in latitude 28 degrees
+48 minutes south, and longitude 142 degrees 53 minutes east by
+account. At this point, the creek, after breaking into several
+small channels, runs out on a grassy plain, the water running in a
+southerly direction, probably until it meets that from the Torrens
+and other creeks at the Cangapundy Swamp. There was plenty of water
+in this part of the creek when we passed, but I cannot speak to its
+permanence. The banks are well lined with box timber, as well as
+with marshmallows and wild spinach: the land on either side
+consists of well-grassed sandy rises. At four or five miles above
+this, the creek is a narrow, dry, sandy watercourse, winding
+through a grassy valley, which everywhere presents indications of
+the most violent floods. Beyond this is an extensive grassy plain;
+and for three or four miles scarcely a trace of the creek could be
+seen. We then came to a clump of trees, amongst which were two
+large waterholes surrounded by polygonum bushes, and containing
+great numbers of small fish. These holes appear to be permanent. We
+found about sixty blacks camped here. Above these waterholes, which
+are together about half a mile long, the creek again disappears on
+the plain. The land for the next ten or twelve miles in a
+north-north-easterly direction is very fine for pastoral purposes,
+being alternately grassy plains and ridges. At twelve or thirteen
+miles we crossed the creek where it has cut for itself a deep
+narrow channel, the banks of which are densely timbered and well
+grassed, but the waterholes are small, and contained very little
+water. For a distance of six miles the creek is of a very
+insignificant character. It appears to be divided into several
+branches, which traverse clay flats badly grassed. Here and there
+are some lines of low sandy rises, with plenty of feed on them. All
+the watercourses are distinctly marked by lines of box timber. At
+about nine miles from where we crossed the creek, and after
+traversing some loose polygonum ground, which was covered with
+mussel shells and a shell resembling a periwinkle, we came to a
+branch of the creek containing a splendid waterhole 150 links broad
+and about half a mile long. A little above this the creek again
+disappears for a short distance, and then there is a long narrow
+channel of undoubtedly permanent water, being nearly four feet deep
+in the shallowest places; it is only on an average about fifty
+links broad, and well sheltered by overhanging box trees. The
+temperature of the water on the morning of the 7th November, at six
+o'clock, was 68 degrees; the temperature of the air at the same
+time being 50.5 degrees. Our camp at this place is indicated by a
+box tree marked B over LII in square, the geographical position of
+which is by account 28 degrees 26 minutes 9 seconds south latitude,
+and longitude 143 degrees 0 minutes east. In proceeding from here
+in a north-north-easterly direction up the course of the creek, or
+rather of the water, for the creek is again lost on the plains for
+five or six miles, we passed the southernmost point of a prominent
+sandstone range, the nearest portion of which lay about a mile and
+a half to the westward. At about nine miles we again touched the
+creek, where it is about three chains broad. The banks are firm and
+shelving, from ten to twelve feet above the water, and lined with
+box, acacias, some large gums, gigantic marshmallows, polygonum,
+etc. In the creek there is abundance of fish, and the ducks and
+other waterfowl on it are numberless. From what we have seen of the
+blacks, I should say the population cannot be far short of 150, and
+it might be considerably more. From here we proceeded in an
+east-north-easterly direction along the west bank of this fine
+waterhole, and at two and a half miles found it begin rapidly to
+decrease in breadth, and a little further on there was nothing but
+a few small stony watercourses traversing a dense box forest: at
+this point there is a level bed of sandstone pebbles, close to and
+over a part of which the creek flows. The blacks have here gone to
+the trouble of making paths for themselves, along which we turned
+off from the creek on a north-north-easterly course, and at about
+three miles, coming on earthy plains, with no signs of water ahead,
+we again turned in to the creek and camped at a small waterhole.
+From here the line of river timber continues in a north-easterly
+direction. To the west and north-north-west is a line of sandstone
+ranges running off in the same direction. The land in the immediate
+vicinity of the creek on the west side is very poorly grassed all
+the way up from where we crossed it: that on the east side appeared
+to be better.
+
+I think there can scarcely be a doubt but that this creek is the
+lower portion of the Warrego River, although I believe that its
+main supply of water is obtained from the adjoining ranges, which
+send down innumerable creeks into the flats through which it flows.
+
+Some latitude observations at Camp 53, (the furthest point to which
+we traced the creek) placed us in 28 degrees 16 minutes 40 seconds
+south; our latitude, by account, being 28 degrees 17 minutes 8
+seconds, and longitude, 143 degrees 18 minutes east. On Thursday,
+November 8th, we left Wright's Creek with the intention of crossing
+the ranges to Cooper's Creek. We found the land as we approached
+the hills well grassed, and in some places densely timbered: it is
+intersected by numerous watercourses with deep sandy channels, in
+most of which there seemed little chance of finding water. We
+camped at a waterhole in McDonagh's Creek; the spot is indicated by
+a gum tree marked B over LIV within square.
+
+De Rinsy's Tracks.--Near here we found the tracks of drays; there
+were four distinct tracks, two of which appeared to be those of
+heavy horse drays, the other two might have been made by light ones
+or ring carts; we were unable to make out the tracks of the horses
+or cattle. I cannot imagine what tracks these are, unless they may
+be those of De Rinsy, who, I believe, had some drays with him, and
+reported that he had been somewhere in this direction. From Camp 54
+to Camp 55 we were obliged to take a very circuitous route on
+account of the rugged and stony nature of the ranges, which were
+more extensive than we had anticipated. They stretch away far to
+the north and north-north-west, and although we kept well out to
+the north-west we were unable to avoid the low stony rises which
+adjoin them.
+
+On the north-west side of the hills we crossed two dry creeks which
+flow in a north-north-easterly direction; their banks are thinly
+lined with box trees, and the holes in them were quite dry. From
+this we took a west-north-westerly course, across an undulating
+country covered with sandstone, quartz, and (magnetic) ironstone
+pebbles, so densely and firmly set together in some places as to
+have the appearance of an old-fashioned pavement. At about three
+miles, we had to change our course to north-west, to avoid a spur
+of the high range on our left. At two miles further we came to a
+grassy flat through which ran a fine-looking creek, but the bed was
+sandy and quite dry; there were, however, a good many small birds
+about here, which would indicate that there must be water in the
+neighbourhood. We here again changed our course to west-north-west,
+and at six miles camped at a dry stony creek, having travelled
+about eight-and-twenty miles over the worst ground that we had yet
+met with. On the morning of the 10th we continued on a
+west-north-westerly course, across stony ground of the same nature
+as that passed during the previous day; but at a distance of five
+miles we turned to west quarter south, as the ranges appeared to be
+as low in that direction as in the other; and as they ran nearly
+north-north-west there seemed a chance of sooner getting out of
+them, which we did at a distance of about eight miles more.
+
+From the point at which we emerged from these ranges the view was
+as follows:--From south-west nearly up to north-west were extensive
+plains, as far as the eye could reach, intersected by numerous
+lines of timber, the general direction of which was about
+north-north-west. Several columns of smoke were visible along these
+lines, some of which had the appearance of camp and others of bush
+fires. From north-west to north were lines of ranges running in a
+north-westerly direction, and in the valley between us and the
+first spur was a fine line of timber, indicating the course of what
+appeared to be a large creek, probably the recipient of all the
+small creeks that we had crossed during the morning; in every other
+direction there was nothing to be seen but timbered sandstone
+ranges. At noon we crossed a small creek running nearly north: the
+grass had been burnt on its banks. About half a mile beyond it was
+another creek of a more promising appearance, and as we approached
+it we saw several crows, as well as other birds, in the trees. We
+here found a small hole with the water fast drying up; it contained
+a lot of young fish about half an inch long, and just sufficient
+water to replenish our water bags and give the horses a drink;
+below it the creek took a north-north-westerly course, and was dry
+and sandy for a distance of two miles and a half, at which point we
+found some large but shallow holes of milky-looking water. On the
+plains near these holes we found large flocks of pigeons. The grass
+was very coarse and dry, and the water would probably not last more
+than a few weeks.
+
+Horse Tracks.--On the plains to the east of the creek were the
+tracks of a single horse, which had evidently crossed when the
+ground was very soft, and gone in a south-westerly direction.
+
+Position of Water.--The waterholes are situated in latitude 27
+degrees 51 south, longitude 142 degrees 40 minutes east, by account
+from Camp 55. From here a course of west half south took us in a
+distance of about twenty miles to Cooper's Creek, which we first
+struck in latitude 27 degrees 49 minutes south, longitude 142
+degrees 20 minutes east. The land through which we passed on the
+11th was so low and wooded as to prevent me from seeing the
+direction of the ranges; the first five or six miles was tolerably
+open. We then came to a box forest, where the soil was loose and
+earthy, similar to polygonum ground; there were in every direction
+signs of heavy floods and frequent inundations. We crossed several
+small watercourses, in one of which there was a hole of rather
+creamy water, at which we halted for an hour. From the waterhole we
+quite unexpectedly obtained a rather fine fish, about eight inches
+long, of the same description as the young ones we had found in
+Brahe's Creek.
+
+Cooper's Creek.--At the point at which we first struck Cooper's
+Creek it was rocky, sandy, and dry; but about half a mile further
+down we came to some good waterholes, where the bed of the creek
+was very boggy, and the banks richly grassed with kangaroo and
+other grasses. The general course is a little north of west, but it
+winds about very much between high sand hills. The waterholes are
+not large, but deep, and well shaded, both by the steep banks and
+the numerous box trees surrounding them. The logs and bushes high
+upon the forks of the trees, tell of the destructive floods to
+which this part of the country has been subjected, and that at no
+very distant period, as may be seen by the flood marks on trees of
+not more than five or six years' growth.
+
+From Camp 57 we traced the creek in a west-north-westerly direction
+about six miles. It then runs out among the sand hills, the water
+flowing by various small channels in a south-westerly direction.
+The main channel, however, continues nearly south until it is lost
+on an extensive earthy plain covered with marshmallows and
+chrysanthemums.
+
+Creek.--In one of the valleys between the sand hills, at a distance
+of about ten miles in a south-westerly direction, we found a
+shallow waterhole where a creek is formed for a short distance, and
+is then lost again on the earthy plain beyond. West by north and
+west from here, about twelve miles, there are some splendid sheets
+of water, in some places two and three chains broad; the banks well
+timbered, but the land in the neighbourhood so loose and rotten
+that one can scarcely ride over it. I expect this is the reason why
+we saw no blacks about here, for it must be worse for them to walk
+over than the stony ground. From Camp 60 the general course of the
+creek is north-west, but it frequently disappears on the earthy
+plains for several miles, and then forms into waterholes again
+finer than before. At our first depot, Camp 63, in latitude 27
+degrees 36 minutes 15 seconds south, longitude 141 degrees 30
+minutes east, there is a fine hole about a mile long, and on an
+average one chain and a half broad. It exceeds five feet in depth
+everywhere that I tried it, except within three or four feet of the
+bank. Two or three miles above this camp we saw the first melaburus
+growing around the waterholes, some of them as large as a moderate
+size gum tree.
+
+Earthy Flat.--The feed in the vicinity of Camp 63 is
+unexceptionable, both for horses and camels but the herbage on the
+creek generally down to this point is of a very inferior quality;
+the grasses are very coarse, and bear a very small proportion to
+the other plants. By far the chief portion of the herbage consists
+of chrysanthemums and marshmallows; the former, to judge from their
+dried-up powdery state, can contain very little nourishment,
+although some of the horses and camels eat them with great relish;
+the latter, I need hardly mention, are at this time of the year
+merely withered sticks. A few small salsolaceous plants are to be
+found on some of the flats, but they are scarcely worth mentioning.
+In some places where the bed of the creek is shallow and dry, there
+is an abundance of good grass and rushes of several kinds. The
+polygonum bushes are also fresh and good, in such places.
+
+Stony Rises.--The stony rises are generally bare and barren; but
+some of those on the north side of the creek carry a fair crop of
+light grass.
+
+Sand Hills.--Wherever there are sand banks or ridges the feed is
+almost invariably good; the salt bush is healthy and abundant, and
+there are a variety of plants on which cattle would do well. For
+camels, these hills are particularly well adapted, for there is
+scarcely a plant grows on them that they will not eat, with the
+exception of porcupine grass; but there is very little of that
+until one gets many miles back from the creek.
+
+Character of Ground.--I have mentioned three distinct kinds of
+ground--the earthy plains, the stony rises, and the sand ridges.
+The latter, which is by far the most agreeable whether for
+travelling on, for feed, or in respect to the freedom from flies,
+ants, musquitoes, and rats, is simply a series of hills composed of
+blown sand of a red colour, very fine, and so compactly set that
+the foot does not sink in it much. In some places the ridges have a
+uniform direction, in others the hills are scattered about without
+any regularity; the average direction of the ridges is
+north-north-east and south-south-west. In the valleys between the
+hills, are shallow clay plains, in which the water rapidly
+collects, even after slight showers; but when full they seldom
+exceed five or six inches in depth, so that in summer they are soon
+dry again.
+
+Stony Rises.--The stony ground, in contradistinction to the
+sandstone ranges, appears to have been formed from the detritus of
+the latter, deposited in undulating beds of vast extent. The
+greater portion of this ground appears almost level when one is on
+it, but when viewed from a distance the undulations are very
+distinct; the stones are chiefly water-worn pebbles of sandstone,
+quartz, and iron-stone; in some places the rises approach more
+nearly to the nature of the sandstone ranges, and here the stones
+are less water-worn, and are mixed with large blocks of rock. I
+found the magnetic polarity to be very distinct in some of the
+ironstone pebbles on these rises.
+
+Earthy Plains.--The earthy plains which are such an important
+geological feature in this part of the country, will, I fear,
+greatly interfere with its future occupation. When dry they are so
+intersected by chasms and cracks that it is in some places
+dangerous for animals to cross them, and when wet they would be
+quite impassable. Cattle would, perhaps, do well on them for some
+time after an inundation, and the ground might improve after having
+been stocked. The boggy nature of the banks of the creeks passing
+through this ground would be another impediment to settlers, from
+the losses of cattle that it would sometimes entail. To furnish an
+idea of the danger in that respect, I may mention that there are
+places where, for a distance of two or three miles, neither a
+bullock nor a horse could get to the water with safety, and it was
+with difficulty that we could approach it ourselves; the safest
+spots are at the lower end of the waterhole, where the creeks run
+out on the plains. A peculiar geological feature that I have never
+seen so strongly exhibited elsewhere is, that the watercourses on
+these plains have a strong tendency to work away to the south and
+south-west; the fall of the ground, as shown by the flow of the
+flood water, being to the west and north-west. I found that at
+almost every place where a portion of the creek ran out, the small
+branches into which it split before disappearing, struck off at
+nearly right angles to the creek, and that the flow of the water on
+the level plain was invariably in a west or north-westerly
+direction; whereas the creeks generally had a course considerably
+to the south and west, more especially before running out. The
+branch creeks and waterholes are always lined with box trees and
+polygonum bushes; they are generally situated between or near
+sandhills, and have doubtless been formed by the rush of water
+consequent on the interference of these hills by the general flow.
+In some places the direction of the sand ridges was the course of
+the creeks, trending to the southward; but I allude to the tendency
+as exhibited on the open plain, with no sand ridges near the creek.
+
+Country to the north of Camp 63,--Cooper's.--During our stay at
+Camp 63, from which spot we found it necessary to remove for
+several reasons, but chiefly because the rats attacked our stores
+in such numbers that we could keep nothing from them, unless by
+suspending it in the trees, four excursions were made to the north
+of that place in search of a practicable route to the Gulf. The
+first attempt was made with horses, which were soon knocked up from
+the strong nature of the ground and the want of water; the others
+we made with camels, by the help of which the country was well
+examined to a distance of nearly ninety miles. Water was found at
+two places at distances of about seventy and seventy-three miles
+north of the creek, but it was fast drying up, and would not last
+beyond Christmas. No blacks were seen, but a column of smoke was
+observed to the north-north-east, at a distance of about fifteen
+miles, as ascertained by some bearings, from the point at which we
+turned back. The chief portion of the land traversed consists of
+land-dunes and flats of the same nature, the latter clothed with
+porcupine grass, the former with salt bushes, grasses, and a
+variety of shrubs, sometimes intermixed with mesembryanthemums and
+porcupine grass. The sandy ground is bounded on either side by
+sandstone ranges, from which numerous small creeks flow east and
+west until they are lost in small flats and clay pans amongst the
+sand hills. Their course is marked by an acacia, which is somewhat
+analogous in its general characteristics to the common wattle; a
+few are favoured with some box trees, but we only found water in
+one. The whole country has a most deplorably arid appearance; birds
+are very scarce, native dogs numerous. The paths of the blacks on
+the strong ground look as if they had been used many years.
+Anthills and beds are to be found everywhere in great numbers and
+of considerable size; the paths to and from them are better marked
+and more worn than any I have ever seen before; but nearly all of
+them are deserted, and those that are inhabited contain a small and
+weakly population that seems to be fast dying away. Neither about
+the flats nor the ranges did we see any signs of the heavy floods
+that have left such distinct marks in other parts, and the
+appearance of the whole country gave me the idea of a place that
+had been subjected to a long-continued drought. At the northernmost
+end of the eastern line of ranges, and on the west side of them, in
+latitude 26 degrees 30 minutes south, longitude 141 degrees 40
+minutes east, is a low detached line of range about seven miles
+from north to south. On passing inside this range at its southern
+extremity, one enters a flat bounded to the south by high red sand
+hills to the west and north by the low range, and running up to the
+north-north-east, until it reaches the main range. On the lower
+part of the flat there is no creek, but on proceeding up it, at a
+mile and a half there are three waterholes with a few bushes
+growing around them; the water was fast drying up when we were
+there. There were some ducks, snipe, and pigeons about them: the
+former always returned to the holes after having been disturbed, so
+I imagine there is not much more water in the vicinity. In
+continuing up the flat, the main creek appears to be that along
+which the box timber grows, but the bed is sandy and quite dry. By
+keeping off a little to the left, at a mile above the waterholes,
+one comes on the bed of another creek, with only here and there a
+gum tree and a few bushes. Up this creek at a distance of three
+miles nearly north from the three holes, and where the creek
+emerges from the ranges, is a large hole well shaded by heavy box
+trees; it contained only a small quantity of water when we passed,
+but I fancy that in ordinary seasons the water would be permanent.
+This creek has been much frequented by blacks at one time, but not
+lately. Hundreds of hawks and a good many crows and magpies were in
+the trees near the waterhole.
+
+Geographical position.--The geographical position of the three
+waterholes is by account from Cooper's Creek latitude 26 degrees 34
+minutes south, longitude 140 degrees 43 minutes east.
+
+Meteorological remarks.--It would be rather premature for me to
+offer any opinion on the climate of Cooper's Creek on so short a
+stay, and my other duties have prevented me from making any
+observations that would be worth forwarding in detail. I may
+mention, however, that neither on the creek, nor during the journey
+up, have we experienced any extreme temperatures: the heat,
+although considerably greater here than in Melbourne, as shown by a
+thermometer, is not felt more severely by us. The maximum daily
+temperatures since our arrival on Cooper's Creek have generally
+exceeded 100 degrees; the highest of all was registered on November
+27th at Camp 63, when the thermometer stood at 109 degrees in the
+shade. There was at that time a strong wind from the north, which
+felt rather warm, but had not the peculiar characteristics of a hot
+wind. One of the most noticeable features in the weather has been
+the well-marked regularity in the course of the wind, which almost
+invariably blew lightly from the east or south-east soon after
+sunrise, went gradually round to north by two o'clock, sometimes
+blowing fresh from that quarter, followed the sun to west by
+sunset, and then died away or blew gently from the south throughout
+the night. A sudden change took place yesterday, December 14th; the
+day had been unusually hot, temperature of air at one P.M. 106
+degrees, at which time cirrocumulus clouds began to cross the sky
+from north-west, and at two P.M. the wind sprang up in the
+south-west, blowing with great violence (force 6); it soon shifted
+to south, increasing in force to (7) and sometimes (8); it
+continued to blow from the same quarter all night, and has not yet
+much abated. Once during the night it lulled for about an hour, and
+then commenced again; it is now (four P.M.) blowing with a force of
+(5) from south by east, with a clear sky. Before the wind had
+sprung up the sky had become overcast, and we were threatened with
+a thunderstorm; rain was evidently falling in the west and
+north-west, but the sky partially cleared in the evening without
+our receiving any. Flashes of distant lightning were visible
+towards the north. During the night, the thunderstorm from the
+north approached sufficiently near for thunder to be distinctly
+heard; the flashes of lightning were painfully brilliant, although
+so far away. The storm passed to the south-east without reaching
+us; the sky remained overcast until between eight and nine A.M.,
+since when it has been quite clear; the temperature of air, which
+at sunrise was as low as 72 degrees, has reached a maximum of 92
+degrees: it is at present 89 degrees, and that of the surface of
+the water in the creek 78 degrees. Two other thunderstorms have
+passed over since we have been on the creek, from only one of which
+we have received any rain worth mentioning.
+
+Mr. Brahe, who remains here in charge of the depot, and from whom I
+have received great assistance both in making meteorological
+observations and in the filling in of feature surveys, will keep a
+regular meteorological register. I have handed over to him for that
+purpose an aneroid barometer, Number 21,543, and four thermometers,
+two for dry and wet bulb observations, and the others for
+temperature of water, etc.
+
+With regard to hot winds, the direction of the sand-ridges would
+seem to indicate a prevalence of east and west winds here rather
+than of northerly.
+
+WILLIAM J. WILLS,
+
+Surveyor and Astronomical Observer.
+
+Cooper's Creek, 15th December, 1860.
+
+. . .
+
+This concludes my son's third report; the first, as far as I
+can ascertain, was never published. This last was accompanied by
+many observations taken with the sextant and other instruments,
+requiring long experience to understand and handle correctly.
+Brahe, a German, had been instructed by my son in their use, and
+had made some progress. Notwithstanding his fatal error in leaving
+the depot contrary to orders, he had, in some respects, superior
+requisites to either of the others left with him. He was a good
+traveller, and a better bushman than Wright. Had he been associated
+with a single companion of nerve and energy, the consequent
+misfortunes might have been surmounted.
+
+CHAPTER 9.
+
+Departure from Cooper's Creek for the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+Arrangements for the Continuance of the Depot at Cooper's Creek.
+Mr. Brahe left in Charge.
+Determination of Route.
+Progress and Incidents.
+Mr. Wills's Field Books, from the 16th of December, 1860, to the
+   30th of January, 1861, 1 to 9.
+Shores of Carpentaria.
+
+DURING the halt at Cooper's Creek, it was reported through an
+Adelaide paper that Mr. McDouall Stuart had returned from his
+attempt to explore in a north-western direction, and was preparing
+to start again with Government aid, and no longer confined entirely
+to the private resources and enterprise of Mr. James Chambers. The
+Gulf of Carpentaria was not so much the immediate object of
+Stuart's efforts, as the opening of a commercial avenue with a view
+to future trade, in a direction more toward the north-west coast,
+and as far north as the 16 or 18 degrees of southern latitude. This
+line of exploration appeared preferable to the strong practical
+mind of Mr. Chambers, who had in view the quid pro quo. Stuart's
+object was therefore plain business, and the immediate advantage of
+the colony with which he was connected; whilst the Victorian
+Expedition included scientific discoveries, and the settlement of a
+great geographical problem. Stuart is again out, since August,
+1861, and doubts are entertained for his safety. Mr. Chambers has
+died in the interim, and cannot know the result of the work he set
+afloat with so much spirit. Thus it is in all ages of discovery,
+that few of the early pioneers live to travel on the roads they
+open with so much difficulty and endurance.
+
+Mr. Burke and my son, impatient of Wright's delay, and seeing the
+time slip by that could never return, determined to make a dash for
+the Gulf while the opportunity still remained to them. I was not
+aware, until after a communication with Mr. Brahe, on his first
+visit to Melbourne, subsequent to his desertion of his post at the
+depot, that my son had strongly advocated a direct course
+northward; but Mr. Burke hesitated to adopt this, unless he could
+feel confident in a supply of water; the committee having included
+something in his instructions as to proceeding north-west towards
+Eyre's Creek and Sturt's Furthest. In his excursions round the camp
+and the district of Cooper's Creek, with the all-important question
+of water in view, my son must have gone over little short of a
+thousand miles. When he lost his camels he had seen smoke in the
+direction of north by east, which he believed to be a native fire,
+but the disaster frustrated his attempts to ascertain the fact.
+Unable thoroughly to assure his leader on the point of water, the
+more western course was adopted at the commencement of the journey,
+for a day or two, after which they turned to the east, and scarcely
+deviated throughout from the 141st degree of eastern longitude.
+
+The party left Cooper's Creek on the morning of the 16th of
+December, 1860. It consisted of Mr. Burke, Mr. Wills, King, and
+Gray, (or Charley as my son calls him in his journal); one horse,
+and six camels. It appears strange to me that they did not take
+more horses. As they had been living on horseflesh so much they
+would have increased their available food, in addition to the
+facility of carrying burthens.
+
+Mr. Brahe remained at Cooper's Creek depot with Patten, McDonough,
+Dost Mahomet, an Indian, six camels, and twelve horses. He was left
+in charge until the arrival of Mr. Wright or some other person duly
+appointed by the committee to take command of the remainder of the
+expedition at Menindie. A surveyor also was expected to assist my
+son, and plenty of work was laid out for all, until Mr. Burke's
+return, had the authorities known how to employ the proper people
+and employed them in time.
+
+There can be no doubt that Brahe received MOST POSITIVE ORDERS TO
+REMAIN AT COOPER'S CREEK UNTIL THE RETURN OF THE EXPLORING PARTY
+FROM THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA. Three and four months were named as
+the possible time of absence. Brahe did remain over four months;
+but even then it was in his power to have waited much longer, and
+he ought to have done so. But the man was over-weighted; the
+position was too much for him, and he gave way when a stronger mind
+might have stood firm. The worst point about him appears to be his
+want of consistency and miserable prevarication; but this may have
+been weakness rather than absolute absence of principle, or of any
+due sense of right or wrong. He was unfit to direct, but he might
+have been directed. Mr. Burke has been blamed for trusting Brahe;
+but he was the best of those who remained behind, and there were
+not many to choose from. King has since told me that it was by my
+son's advice Brahe was appointed, and that the arrival of the party
+from Menindie was considered so certain, that the appointment was
+looked upon only as a temporary affair. It has been also said that
+King might have been left behind in charge, and Brahe taken on.
+This arrangement, eligible in some respects, was open to objection
+in others. Brahe could travel by compass and observation, which
+King could not; and one so qualified might be wanted for a journey
+to Menindie.
+
+The details of the journey are given as follows, in my son's Field
+Books, numbered from 1 to 7 consecutively, transcribed by Dr.
+Mueller, Mr. Smith, and Mr. Cooper. I was associated with them as a
+matter of personal delicacy to the memory of the deceased explorer.
+
+MR. WILLS'S JOURNAL.
+
+FIELD BOOK 1.
+
+COOPER'S CREEK TO CARPENTARIA.
+
+[The omissions in this diary are supplied by the information
+contained in the maps, with the exception of the last two days on
+the shore of the Gulf.]
+
+Sunday, 16th December, 1860.--The horse having been shod and our
+reports finished, we started at 6.40 A.M. for Eyre's Creek, the
+party consisting of Mr. Burke, myself, King, and Charley, having
+with us six camels, one horse, and three months' provisions. We
+followed down the creek to the point where the sandstone ranges
+cross the creek, and were accompanied to that place by Brahe, who
+would return to take charge of the depot. Down to this point the
+banks of the creek are very rugged and stony, but there is a
+tolerable supply of grass and salt bush in the vicinity. A large
+tribe of blacks came pestering us to go to their camp and have a
+dance, which we declined. They were very troublesome, and nothing
+but the threat to shoot them will keep them away. They are,
+however, easily frightened; and, although fine-looking men,
+decidedly not of a warlike disposition. They show the greatest
+inclination to take whatever they can, but will run no unnecessary
+risk in so doing. They seldom carry any weapon, except a shield and
+a large kind of boomerang, which I believe they use for killing
+rats, etc. Sometimes, but very seldom, they have a large spear;
+reed spears seem to be quite unknown to them. They are undoubtedly
+a finer and better-looking race of men than the blacks on the
+Murray and Darling, and more peaceful; but in other respects I
+believe they will not compare favourably with them, for from the
+little we have seen of them, they appear to be mean-spirited and
+contemptible in every respect.
+
+Monday, 17th December, 1860.--We continued to follow down the
+creek. Found its course very crooked, and the channel frequently
+dry for a considerable distance, and then forming into magnificent
+waterholes, abounding in water fowl of all kinds. The country on
+each side is more open than on the upper part of the creek. The
+soil on the plains is of a light earthy nature, supporting
+abundance of salt bush and grass. Most of the plains are lightly
+timbered, and the ground is finer and not cracked up as at the head
+of the creek. Left Camp 67 at ten minutes to six A.M., having
+breakfasted before leaving. We followed the creek along from point
+to point, at first in a direction west-north-west for about twelve
+miles, then about north-west. At about noon we passed the last
+water, a short distance beyond which the creek runs out on a
+polygonum flat [Footnote: Polygonum Cunninghami.]; but the timber
+was so large and dense that it deceived us into the belief that
+there was a continuation of the channel. On crossing the polygonum
+ground to where we expected to find the creek we became aware of
+our mistake. Not thinking it advisable to chance the existence of
+water ahead, we camped at the end of a large but shallow sheet of
+water in the sandy bed of the creek.
+
+The hole was about 150 links broad, and * [Footnote: Blank in
+original.] feet deep in most places. In many places the temperature
+of the water was almost incredibly high, which induced me to try it
+at several points. The mean of two on the shady side of the creek
+gave 97 4/10 degrees. As may be imagined this water tasted
+disagreeably warm, but we soon cooled some in water bags, and
+thinking that it would be interesting to know what we might call
+cool, I placed the thermometer in a pannikin containing some that
+appeared delightfully so, almost cold in fact; its temperature was,
+to our astonishment, 78 degrees. At half-past six, when a strong
+wind was blowing from south, and temperature of air had fallen to
+80 degrees, the lowest temperature of water in the hose, that had
+been exposed to the full effect of evaporation for several hours
+was 72 degrees. This water for drinking appeared positively cold,
+and is too low a temperature to be pleasant under the
+circumstances. A remarkable southerly squall came on between five
+and six P.M., with every appearance of rain. The sky however soon
+cleared, but the wind continued to blow in a squally and irregular
+manner from the same quarter at evening.
+
+Wednesday, 19th December, 1860.--Started at a quarter-past eight A.
+M., leaving what seemed to be the end of Cooper's Creek. We took a
+course a little to the north of west, intending to try and obtain
+water in some of the creeks that Sturt mentioned that he had
+crossed, and at the same time to see whether they were connected
+with Cooper's Creek, as appeared most probable from the direction
+in which we found the latter running, and from the manner in which
+it had been breaking up into small channels, flowing across the
+plains in a north and north-north-west direction. We left on our
+right the flooded flats on which this branch of the creek runs out,
+and soon came to a series of sand ridges, the directions of which
+were between north half-west and north-north-west. The country is
+well grassed and supports plenty of salt bush. Many of the valleys
+are liable to be inundated by the overflow of the main creek. They
+have watercourses and polygonum flats bordered with box trees, but
+we met with no holes fit to hold a supply of water. At about ten
+miles we crossed a large earthy flat lightly timbered with box and
+gum. The ground was very bad for travelling on, being much cracked
+up and intersected by innumerable channels, which continually
+carried off the water of a large creek. Some of the valleys beyond
+this were very pretty, the ground being sound and covered with
+fresh plants, which made them look beautifully green. At fifteen
+miles we halted, where two large plains joined. Our attention had
+been attracted by some red-breasted cockatoos, pigeons, a crow, and
+several other birds, whose presence made us feel sure that there
+was water not far off; but our hopes were soon destroyed by finding
+a claypan just drying up. It contained just sufficient liquid to
+make the clay boggy. At ten minutes to seven P.M., we moved on,
+steering straight for Eyre's Creek, north-west by north, intending
+to make a good night's journey and avoid the heat of the day; but
+at a mile and a half we came to a creek which looked so well that
+we followed it for a short distance, and finding two or three
+waterholes of good milky water we camped for the night. This
+enabled me to secure an observation of the eclipse of Jupiter's (I)
+satellite, as well as some latitude observations. The night was so
+calm that I used the water as an horizon; but I find it much more
+satisfactory to take the mercury for several reasons.
+
+Thursday, 20th December.--We did not leave this camp until
+half-past eight, having delayed to refill the water-bags with the
+milky water, which all of us found to be a great treat again. It is
+certainly more pleasant to drink than the clear water, and at the
+same time more satisfying. Our course from here, north-west by
+north, took us through some pretty country, lightly timbered and
+well grassed. We could see the line of creek timber winding through
+the valley on our left. At a distance of five miles there was a
+bush fire on its banks, and beyond it the creek made a considerable
+bend to the south-west. At two miles farther we came in sight of a
+large lagoon bearing north by west, and at three miles more we
+camped on what would seem the same creek as last night, near where
+it enters the lagoon. The latter is of great extent and contains a
+large quantity of water, which swarms with wild fowl of every
+description. It is very shallow, but is surrounded by the most
+pleasing woodland scenery, and everything in the vicinity looks
+fresh and green. The creek near its junction with the lagoon
+contains some good waterholes five to six feet deep. They are found
+in a sandy alluvium which is very boggy when wet. There was a large
+camp of not less than forty or fifty blacks near where we stopped.
+They brought us presents of fish, for which we gave them some beads
+and matches. These fish we found to be a most valuable addition to
+our rations. They were of the same kind as we had found elsewhere,
+but finer, being from nine to ten inches long, and two to three
+inches deep, and in such good condition that they might have been
+fried in their own fat. It is a remarkable fact, that these were
+the first blacks who have offered us any fish since we reached
+Cooper's Creek.
+
+Friday, 21st December.--We left Camp 70 at half-past five A.M., and
+tried to induce one or two of the blacks to go with us, but it was
+of no use. Keeping our former course we were pulled up at three
+miles by a fine lagoon, and then by the creek that flows into it;
+the latter being full of water, we were obliged to trace it a mile
+up before we could cross. I observed on its banks two wild plants
+of the gourd or melon tribe, one much resembling a stunted
+cucumber: the other, both in leaf and appearance of fruit, was very
+similar to a small model of a water melon. [Footnote: Probably
+Muckia micrantha.--F.M.] The latter plant I also found at Camp 68.
+On tasting the pulp of the newly-found fruit, which was about the
+size of a large pea, I found it to be so acrid that it was with
+difficulty that I removed the taste from my mouth. At eight or nine
+miles from where we crossed the creek we passed another large
+lagoon, leaving it two miles on our left, and shortly afterwards we
+saw one nearly as far on our right. This last we should have
+availed ourselves of, but that we expected to find water in a creek
+which we could see, by the timber lining its banks, flowed from the
+lagoon on our left and crossed our course a few miles ahead. We
+reached it at a distance of four or five miles farther, and found a
+splendid waterhole at which we camped. The creek at the point flows
+in a northerly direction through a large lightly timbered flat, on
+which it partially runs out. The ground is, however, sound and well
+clothed with grass and salsolaceous plants. Up to this point the
+country through which we have passed has been of the finest
+description for pastoral purposes. The grass and saltbush are
+everywhere abundant, and water is plentiful with every appearance
+of permanence. We met with porcupine grass, [Footnote: Triodia
+pungens.--Br.] and only two sand ridges before reaching Camp 71.
+
+FIELD BOOK 2.
+
+CAMP 72 TO 78. LATITUDE 27 TO 25 1/2 DEGREES S.L.
+
+Saturday, 22nd December.--At five minutes to five A.M. we left one
+of the most delightful camps we have had in the journey, and
+proceeded on the same course as before, north-west by north, across
+some high ridges of loose sand, many of which were partially
+clothed with porcupine grass. We found the ground much worse to
+travel over than any we have yet met with, as the ridges were
+exceedingly abrupt and steep on their eastern side, and although
+sloping gradually towards the west, were so honeycombed in some
+places by the burrows of rats, that the camels were continually in
+danger of falling. At a distance of about six miles, we descended
+from these ridges to undulating country of open box forest, where
+everything was green and fresh. There is an abundance of grass and
+salt bushes, and lots of birds of all descriptions. Several flocks
+of pigeons passed over our heads, making for a point a little to
+our right, where there is no doubt plenty of water, but we did not
+go off our course to look for it. Beyond the box forest, which
+keeps away to the right, we again entered the sand ridges, and at a
+distance of six miles, passed close to a dry salt lagoon, the
+ridges in the vicinity of which are less regular in their form and
+direction, and contain nodules of limestone. The ground in the
+flats and claypans near, has that encrusted surface that cracks
+under the pressure of the foot, and is a sure indication of saline
+deposits. At a distance of eight miles from the lagoon, we camped
+at the foot of a sand ridge, jutting out on the stony desert. I was
+rather disappointed, but not altogether surprised, to find the
+latter nothing more nor less than the stony rises that we had
+before met with, only on a larger scale and not quite as
+undulating. During the afternoon several crows came to feed on the
+plain. They came from an east-north-east direction, no doubt from a
+portion of the creek that flows through the forest that we left on
+our right. In the morning, as we were loading, a duck passed over,
+but it was too dark to see which way it went.
+
+Sunday, 23rd December.--At five A.M. we struck out across the
+desert in a west-north-west direction. At four and a-half miles we
+crossed a sand ridge, and then returned to our north-west by north
+course. We found the ground not nearly as bad for travelling on as
+that between Bulloo and Cooper's Creek. In fact I do not know
+whether it arose from our exaggerated anticipation of horrors or
+not, but we thought it far from bad travelling ground, and as to
+pasture it is only the actually stony ground that is bare, and many
+a sheep run is in fact worse grazing ground than that. At fifteen
+miles we crossed another sand ridge, for several miles round which
+there is plenty of grass and fine salt bush. After crossing this
+ridge we descended to an earthy plain, where the ground was rather
+heavy, being in some places like pieces of slaked lime, and
+intersected by small watercourses; flocks of pigeons rose from
+amongst the salt bushes and polygonum; but all the creeks were dry,
+although marked by lines of box timber. Several gunyahs of the
+blacks were situated near a waterhole that had apparently contained
+water very lately, and heaps of grass were lying about the plains,
+from which they had beaten the seeds. We pushed on, hoping to find
+the creeks assuming an improved appearance, but they did not, and
+at one o'clock we halted, intending to travel through part of the
+night. About sunset, three flocks of pigeons passed over us, all
+going in the same direction, due north by compass, and passing over
+a ridge of sand in that direction. Not to have taken notice of such
+an occurrence would have been little short of a sin, so we
+determined to go eight or ten miles in that direction. Starting at
+seven o'clock P.M., we, at six miles, crossed the ridge over which
+the birds had flown, and came on a flat, subject to inundation. The
+ground was at first hard and even like the bottom of a claypan, but
+at a mile or so, we came on cracked earthy ground, intersected by
+numberless small channels running in all directions. At nine miles
+we reached the bed of a creek running from east to west: it was
+only bordered by polygonum bushes, but as there was no timber
+visible on the plains, we thought it safer to halt until daylight,
+for fear we should miss the water. At daylight, when we had
+saddled, a small quantity of timber could be seen at the point of a
+sand ridge about a mile and a half or two miles to the west of us,
+and on going there we found a fine creek, with a splendid sheet of
+water more than a mile long, and averaging nearly three chains
+broad: it is, however, only two or three feet deep in most parts.
+
+Monday, 24th December, 1860.--We took a day of rest on Gray's Creek
+to celebrate Christmas. This was doubly pleasant, as we had never,
+in our most sanguine moments, anticipated finding such a delightful
+oasis in the desert. Our camp was really an agreeable place, for we
+had all the advantages of food and water, attending a position of a
+large creek or river, and were at the same time free from the
+annoyance of the numberless ants, flies, and mosquitoes that are
+invariably met with amongst timber or heavy scrub.
+
+Tuesday, 25th December, 1860.--We left Gray's Creek at half-past
+four A.M. and proceeded to cross the earthy rotten plains in the
+direction of Eyre's Creek. At a distance of about nine miles we
+reached some lines of trees and bushes which were visible from the
+top of the sand ridge at Gray's Creek. We found them growing on the
+banks of several small creeks which trend to the north and
+north-north-west; at a mile and a half further we crossed a small
+creek north-north-east, and joining the ones above mentioned. This
+creek contained abundance of water in small detached holes from
+fifty to a hundred links long, well shaded by steep banks and
+overhanging bushes. The water had a suspiciously transparent colour
+and a slight trace of brackishness, but the latter was scarcely
+perceptible. Near where the creek joined the holes is a sandhill
+and a dense mass of fine timber. The smoke of a fire indicated the
+presence of blacks, who soon made their appearance and followed us
+for some distance, beckoning us away to the north-east. We however
+continued our course north-west by north, but at a distance of one
+mile and a half found that the creek did not come round as we
+expected, and that the fall of the water was in a direction nearly
+opposite to our course, or about west to east. We struck off north
+half west for a high sand ridge, from which we anticipated seeing
+whether it were worth while for us to follow the course of the
+creeks we had crossed. We were surprised to find all the
+watercourses on the plains trending rather to the south of east,
+and at a distance of three miles, after changing our course, and
+when we approached the sandhills towards which we had been
+steering, we were agreeably pulled up by a magnificent creek coming
+from the north-north-west, and running in the direction of the fire
+we had seen. We had now no choice but to change our course again,
+for we could not have crossed even if we had desired to do so. On
+following up the south bank of the creek we found it soon keeping a
+more northerly course than it had where we first struck it. This
+fact, together with its magnitude and general appearance, lessened
+the probability of its being Eyre's Creek, as seemed at first very
+likely from their relative positions and directions. The day being
+very hot and the camels tired from travelling over the earthy
+plains, which by-the-by are not nearly so bad as those at the head
+of Cooper's Creek, we camped at one P.M., having traced the creek
+up about five miles, not counting the bends. For the whole of this
+distance we found not a break or interruption of water, which
+appears to be very deep; the banks are from twenty to thirty feet
+above the water, and very steep; they are clothed near the water's
+edge with mint and other weeds, and on the top of each side there
+is a belt of box trees and various shrubs. The lower part of the
+creek is bounded towards the north by a high red sand ridge, and on
+the south side is an extensive plain, intersected by numerous
+watercourses, which drain off the water in flood-time. The greater
+portion of the plain is at present very bare, but the stalks of dry
+grass show that after rain or floods there will be a good crop on
+the harder and well drained portion; but I believe the loose earthy
+portion supports no vegetation at any time. The inclination of the
+ground from the edge of the creek-bank towards the plain is in many
+places very considerable; this I should take to indicate that the
+flooding is or has been at one time both frequent and regular.
+
+Wednesday, 26th December, 1860.--We started at five A.M., following
+up the creek from point to point of the bends. Its general course
+was at first north-by-west, but at about six miles, the sand ridge
+on the west closed in on it, and at this point it takes a turn to
+the north-north-east for half a mile, and then comes around
+suddenly north-west. Up to this point it had been rather improving
+in appearance than otherwise, but in the bend to the north-west the
+channel is very broad. Its bed being limestone rock and indurated
+clay, is for a space of five or six chains quite dry; then
+commences another waterhole, the creek keeping a little more
+towards north. We crossed the creek here and struck across the
+plain in a due north course, for we could see the line of timber
+coming up to the sand ridges in that direction. For from seven to
+eight miles we did not touch the creek, and the eastern sand ridge
+seceded to a distance, in some places of nearly three miles, from
+our line, leaving an immense extent of grassy plain between it and
+the creek. The distinctly marked feature on the lower part of this
+creek is that whenever the main creek is on one side of a plain,
+there is always a fine billibong on the opposite side, each of them
+almost invariably sticking close to the respective sand ridges.
+Before coming to the next bend of the creek a view from the top of
+a sandhill showed me that the creek received a large tributary from
+the north-west at about two miles above where we had crossed it. A
+fine line of timber, running up to the north-west, joined an
+extensive tract of box forest, and the branch we were following was
+lost to view in a similar forest towards the north. The sand ridge
+was so abrupt when we came to the creek, that it was necessary to
+descend into its bed through one of the small ravines adjoining it.
+We found it partially run out, the bed being sand and strewed with
+nodules of lime, some of which were from one half to two feet long:
+they had apparently been formed in the sanddowns by infiltration.
+
+FIELD BOOK 3.
+
+CAMPS 78 TO 85.* LATITUDE SOUTH 25 1/2 TO 23 3/4 DEGREES.
+[Footnote: This Field Book was mostly occupied by notes of
+astronomical observations, and surveyor's notes for mapping.]
+
+Sunday, 30th December, 1860.--Finding that the creek was trending
+considerably towards the east without much likelihood of altering
+its course, we struck off from it, taking a ten days' supply of
+water, as there were ranges visible to the north, which had the
+appearance of being stony. A north-east by north course was first
+taken for about seven miles in order to avoid them. The whole of
+this distance was over alluvial earthy plains, the soil of which
+was firm, but the vegetation scanty.
+
+FIELD BOOK 4.
+
+CAMPS 85 TO 90. LATITUDE 23 3/4 TO 22 1/4 DEGREES.
+
+(Fine Country, Tropics.)
+
+Saturday, 5th January, 1861.--On leaving Camp 84, we found slight
+but distinct indications of rain in the groves, and a few blades of
+grass and small weeds in the little depressions on the plain: these
+indications were, however, so slight, that, but for the fact of our
+having found surface-water in two holes near our camp, we should
+hardly have noticed them. At a distance of about two miles in a
+north-north-easterly direction, we came to a creek with a long
+broad shallow waterhole. The well-worn paths, the recent tracks of
+natives, and the heaps of shells, on the contents of which the
+latter had feasted, showed at once that this creek must be
+connected with some creek of considerable importance. The camels
+and horses being greatly in need of rest, we only moved up about
+half a mile, and camped for the day.
+
+Sunday, 6th January, 1861.--Started at twenty minutes to six
+o'clock, intending to make an easy day's stage along the creek. As
+we proceeded up in a northerly direction, we found the waterhole to
+diminish in size very much, and at about two and a half miles the
+creek ran out in a lot of small watercourses. At the upper end of
+the creek we found in its bed what appeared to be an arrangement
+for catching fish: it consisted of a small oval mud paddock about
+twelve feet by eight feet, the sides of which were about nine
+inches above the bottom of the hole, and the top of the fence
+covered with long grass, so arranged that the ends of the blades
+overhung scantily by several inches the sides of the hole. As there
+was no sign of timber to the north, we struck off to north-west by
+north for a fine line that came up from south-west, and seemed to
+run parallel with the creek we were about to leave. At a distance
+of about three miles, we reached the bank of a fine creek
+containing a sheet of water two chains broad, and at least fifteen
+feet deep in the middle. The banks are shelving, sandy, and lightly
+clothed with box trees and various shrubs. On starting to cross the
+plains towards this creek we were surprised at the bright green
+appearance of strips of land, which look in the distance like
+swamps. On approaching some of them, we found that there had been a
+considerable fall of rain in some places, which had raised a fine
+crop of grass and portulac [Footnote: Portulaca oleracea. L.]
+wherever the soil was of a sandy and light nature; but the amount
+of moisture had been insufficient to affect the hard clayey ground
+which constitutes the main portion of the plain. The sight of two
+native companions feeding here, added greatly to the encouraging
+prospects; they are the only specimens of that bird that I remember
+to have seen on that side of the Darling.
+
+7th January, 1861.--We started at half-past four A.M. without
+water, thinking that we might safely rely on this creek for one
+day's journey. We, however, found the line of timber soon began to
+look small; at three miles the channel contained only a few pools
+of surface water. We continued across the plains on a due north
+course, frequently crossing small watercourses, which had been
+filled by the rain, but were fast drying up. Here and there, as we
+proceeded, dense lines of timber on our right showed that the creek
+came from the east of north; at a distance of thirteen miles we
+turned to the north-north-east towards a fine line of timber. We
+found a creek of considerable dimensions, that had only two or
+three small water-holes, but as there was more than sufficient for
+us, and very little feed for the beasts anywhere else, we camped. I
+should have liked this camp to have been in a more prominent and
+easily recognizable position, as it happens to be almost exactly on
+the tropic of Capricorn. The tremendous gale of wind that we had in
+the evening and night prevented me from taking a latitude
+observation, whereas I had some good ones at the last camp and at
+Camp 87. My reckoning cannot be far out. I found, on taking out my
+instruments, that one of the spare thermometers was broken, and the
+glass of my aneroid barometer cracked; the latter I believe not
+otherwise injured. This was done by the camel having taken it into
+his head to roll while the pack was on his back.
+
+Tuesday, 8th January, 1861.--Started at a quarter past five A.M.
+with a load of water, determined to be independent of all creeks
+and watercourses. At a mile and a half, found surface water in a
+small creek, and at a mile farther, water in two or three places on
+the open plains. The country we crossed for the first ten miles
+consists of fine open plains of firm argillaceous soils, too stiff
+and hard to be affected by the small quantity of rain that has
+fallen as yet. They are subject to inundations from the overflow of
+a number of small creeks, which intersect them in a direction
+east-north-east to west-south-west. Nearly all the creeks are lined
+with box trees and shrubs in a tolerably healthy state; of the
+remains of dead trees there is only a fair proportion to the living
+ones. After traversing a plain of greater extent than the rest, we,
+at ten miles, reached the creek, proportionately large and
+important looking. The channel, however, at the point where we
+struck it, was deep, level, and dry; but I believe there is water
+in it not far off, for there were some red-breasted cockatoos in
+the trees, and native parrots on each side. On the north side there
+is a part bearing off to the north-north-west. The mirage on the
+plain to the south of the creek was stronger than I have before
+seen it. There appear to be sheets of water within a few yards of
+one, and it looks sufficiently smooth and glassy to be used for an
+artificial horizon. To the westward of the plains, some fine
+sandhills were visible, nearly in the direction in which the creek
+flowed. To the north of the creek the country undergoes a great
+change. At first there is a little earthy land subject to
+inundation. The soil then becomes more sandy, with stony pans in
+which water collects after rain; the whole country is slightly
+undulating, lightly timbered, and splendidly grassed. A number of
+small disconnected creeks are scattered about, many of which
+contained water protected from the sun and wind by luxuriant growth
+of fine grasses and small bushes. We passed one or two little rises
+of sand and pebbles, on which were growing some trees quite new to
+me; but for the seed pods I should have taken them for a species of
+Casuarina, although the leaf-stalks have not the jointed
+peculiarities of those plants. The trunks and branches are like the
+she oak, the leaves like those of a pine; they droop like a willow,
+and the seed is small, flat, in a large flat pod, about six inches
+by three-quarters of an inch. As we proceeded, the country improved
+at every step. Flocks of pigeons rose and flew off to the eastward,
+and fresh plants met our view on every rise; everything green and
+luxuriant. The horse licked his lips, and tried all he could to
+break his nose-string in order to get at the food. We camped at the
+foot of a sandy rise, where there was a large stony pan with plenty
+of water, and where the feed was equal in quality, and superior as
+to variety, to any that I have seen in Australia, excepting perhaps
+on some soils of volcanic origin.
+
+Wednesday, 9th January, 1861.--Started at five minutes past five,
+without water, trusting to get a supply of water from the rain that
+fell during the thunderstorm. Traversed six miles of undulating
+plains covered with vegetation richer than ever. Several ducks rose
+from the little creeks as we passed, and flocks of pigeons were
+flying in all directions. The richness of the vegetation is
+evidently not suddenly arising from chance thunderstorms, for the
+trees and bushes on the open plain are everywhere healthy and fresh
+looking; very few dead ones are to be seen; besides which, the
+quantity of dead and rotten grass which at present almost
+overpowers in some places the young blades shows that this is not
+the first crop of the kind. The grasses are numerous and many of
+them unknown to me, but they only constitute a moderate portion of
+the herbage. Several kinds of spurious vetches and portulac, as
+well as salsolaceae, add to the luxuriance of the vegetation. At
+seven miles we found ourselves in an open forest country, where the
+feed was good, but not equal to what we had passed, neither had it
+been visited by yesterday's rain. We soon emerged again on open
+plains, but the soil being of a more clayish nature, they were not
+nearly so much advanced in vegetation as the others. We found
+surface water in several places, and at one spot disturbed a fine
+bustard which was feeding in the long grass; we did not see him
+until he flew up. I should have mentioned that one flew over our
+camp last evening in a northerly direction; this speaks well for
+the country and climate. At noon we came to a large creek the
+course of which was from east-north-east to west-south-west; the
+sight of the white gum trees in the distance had raised hopes,
+which were not at all damped on a close inspection of the channel.
+At the point where we struck it there was certainly no great
+quantity of water; the bed was broad and sandy, but its whole
+appearance was that of an important watercourse, and the large gums
+which line its banks, together with the improved appearance of the
+soil, and the abundance of feed in the vicinity, satisfied us as to
+the permanency of the water and the value of the discovery.
+Although it was so early in the day, and we were anxious to make a
+good march, yet we camped here, as it seemed to be almost a sin to
+leave such good quarters. The bed of the creek is loose sand,
+through which the water freely permeates; it is, however,
+sufficiently coarse not to be boggy, and animals can approach the
+water without any difficulty.
+
+Thursday, 10th January, 1861.--At twenty minutes past five A.M., we
+left our camp with a full supply of water, determined to risk no
+reverses, and to make a good march. I should mention that last
+evening we had been nearly deafened by the noise of the cicadariae,
+and but for our large fires should have been kept awake all night
+by the mosquitoes. A walk of two miles across a well grassed plain
+brought us to a belt of timber, and we soon afterwards found
+ourselves pulled up by a large creek in which the water was broad
+and deep; we had to follow up the bank of the creek in a
+north-easterly direction for nearly a mile before we could cross,
+when to our joy we found that it was flowing; not a muddy stream
+from the effects of recent floods, but a small rivulet of pure
+water as clear as crystal. The bed of the river at this place is
+deep and rather narrow; the water flows over sand and pebbles,
+winding its way between clumps of melalema, and gum saplings. After
+leaving the river, we kept our old course due north, crossing, at a
+distance of one mile, three creeks with gum trees on their banks.
+The soil of the flats through which they flow is a red loam of fair
+quality and well grassed. Beyond the third creek is a large plain,
+parts of which are very stony, and this is bounded towards the east
+by a low stony rise, partly composed of decayed and honeycombed
+quartz rock in situ, and partly of waterworn pebbles and other
+alluvial deposits. At about two miles across this plain, we reached
+the first of a series of small creeks with deep waterholes: these
+creeks and holes have the characteristics peculiar to watercourses
+which are found in flats formed from the alluvial deposits of
+schistose rocks. The banks are on a level with the surrounding
+ground, and are irregularly marked by small trees, or only by tufts
+of long grass which overhang the channel and frequently hide it
+from one's view, even when within a few yards. At about five miles
+from where we crossed the river, we came to the main creek in these
+flats, Patten's Creek; it flows along at the foot of a stony range,
+and we had to trace it up nearly a mile in a north-north-easterly
+direction before we could cross it; as it happened, we might almost
+as well have followed its course up the flat, for at a little more
+than two miles we came to it again. We re-crossed it at a stony
+place just below a very large waterhole, and then continued our
+course over extensive plains, not so well grassed as those we had
+passed before, and very stony in some places. At eight miles from
+Patten's Creek, we came to another, running from south-west to
+south-east: there was plenty of water in it, but it was evidently
+the result of recent local rains. On the banks was an abundance of
+good feed but very little timber.
+
+Friday, 11th January, 1861.--We started at five A.M., and in the
+excitement of exploring fine well-watered country, forgot all about
+the eclipse of the sun until the reduced temperature and peculiarly
+gloomy appearance of the sky drew our attention to the matter; it
+was then too late to remedy the deficiency, so we made a good day's
+journey, the moderation of the midday heat, which was only about 86
+degrees, greatly assisting us. The country traversed has the most
+verdant and cheerful aspect; abundance of feed and water
+everywhere. All the creeks seen to-day have a course more or less
+to the east by south. The land improves in appearance at every
+mile. A quantity of rain has fallen here and to the south, and some
+of the flats are suitable for cultivation, if the regularity of the
+seasons will admit.
+
+FIELD BOOK 5.
+
+CAMPS 92 TO 95. LATITUDE 22 1/4 TO 21 1/4 DEGREES.
+
+(Standish Ranges.)
+
+Saturday, 12th January, 1861.--We started at five A.M., and,
+keeping as nearly as possible a due north course, traversed for
+about eight miles a splendid flat, through which flow several fine
+well-watered creeks, lined with white gum trees. We then entered a
+series of slaty, low, sandstone ranges, amongst which were some
+well-grassed flats, and plenty of water in the main gullies. The
+more stony portions are, however, covered with porcupine grass, and
+here and there with mallee; large ant-hills are very numerous; they
+vary in height from two and a half to four feet. There was a
+continuous rise perceptible all the way in crossing the ranges, and
+from the highest portion, which we reached at a distance of about
+seven miles, we had a pretty good view of the country towards the
+north. As far as we could see in the distance, and bearing due
+north, was a large range, having somewhat the outline of a granite
+mountain. The east end of this range just comes up to the magnetic
+north; on the left of this, and bearing north-north-west, is a
+single conical peak, the top of which only is visible. Further to
+the west there were some broken ranges, apparently sandstone; to
+the east of north the tops of very distant and apparently higher
+ranges were seen, the outline of which was so indistinct that I can
+form no idea as to their character; the intermediate country below
+us appeared alternations of fine valleys and stony ranges, such as
+we had just been crossing. From here a descent of two miles brought
+us to a creek having a northern course, but on tracing it down for
+about a mile, we found it to turn to the south-east and join
+another from the north. We crossed over to the latter on a
+north-by-west course, and camped on the west bank. It has a broad
+sandy channel; the waterholes are large, but not deep; the banks
+are bordered with fine white gums, and are in some places very
+scrubby. There is abundance of rich green feed everywhere in the
+vicinity. We found here numerous indications of blacks having been
+here, but saw nothing of them. It seems remarkable that where their
+tracks are so plentiful, we should have seen none since we left
+King's Creek. I observed that the natives here climb trees as those
+on the Murray do, in search of some animal corresponding in habits
+to the opossum, which they get out of the hollow branches in a
+similar manner. I have not yet been able to ascertain what the
+animal is.
+
+Sunday, 13th January, 1861.--We did not leave camp this morning
+until half-past seven, having delayed for the purpose of getting
+the camels' shoes on--a matter in which we were eminently
+unsuccessful. We took our breakfast before starting, for almost the
+first time since leaving the depot. Having crossed the creek, our
+course was due north as before, until, at about six miles, we came
+in sight of the range ahead, when we took a north-half-east
+direction for the purpose of clearing the eastern front of it. We
+found the ground more sandy than what we had before crossed, and a
+great deal of it even more richly grassed. Camp 93 is situate at
+the junction of three sandy creeks, in which there is abundance of
+water. The sand is loose, and the water permeates freely, so that
+the latter may be obtained delightfully cool and clear by sinking
+anywhere in the beds of the creeks.
+
+FIELD BOOK 6.
+
+CAMPS 98 TO 105. LATITUDE 21 1/4 TO 20 1/4 DEGREES.
+
+(Upper part of Cloncurry.)
+
+Saturday, 19th January, 1861.--Started from Camp 98 at 5.30 A.M.,
+and passing to the north-west of Mount Forbes, across a fine and
+well-grassed plain, kept at first a north-by-east direction. At a
+distance of three miles, the plain became everywhere stony, being
+scattered over with quartz pebbles; and a little further on we came
+to low quartz ranges, the higher portions of which are covered with
+porcupine grass, but the valleys are well clothed with a variety of
+coarse and rank herbage. At about five miles we crossed a creek
+with a sandy bed, which has been named Green's Creek; there were
+blacks not far above where we crossed, but we did not disturb them.
+After crossing the creek, we took a due north course over very
+rugged quartz ranges of an auriferous character. Pieces of iron
+ore, very rich, were scattered in great numbers over some of the
+hills. On our being about to cross one of the branch creeks in the
+low range, we surprised some blacks--a man who, with a young fellow
+apparently his son, was upon a tree, cutting out something; and a
+lubra with a piccaninny. The two former did not see me until I was
+nearly close to them, and then they were dreadfully frightened;
+jumping down from the trees, they started off, shouting what
+sounded to us very like "Joe, Joe." Thus disturbed, the lubra, who
+was at some distance from them, just then caught sight of the
+camels and the remainder of the party as they came over the hill
+into the creek, and this tended to hasten their flight over the
+stones and porcupine grass. Crossing the range at the head of this
+creek, we came on a gully running north, down which we proceeded,
+and soon found it open out into a creek, at two or three points in
+which we found water. On this creek we found the first specimen of
+an eucalyptus, which has a very different appearance from the
+members of the gum-tree race. It grows as high as a good-sized gum
+tree, but with the branches less spreading: in shape it much
+resembles the elm; the foliage is dark, like that of the light
+wood; the trunk and branches are covered with a grey bark
+resembling in outward appearance that of the box tree. Finding that
+the creek was trending too much to the eastward, we struck off to
+the north again, and at a short distance came on a fine creek
+running about south-south-east. As it was now nearly time to camp,
+we travelled it up for about one and a-half mile, and came to a
+fine waterhole in a rocky basin, at which there were lots of birds.
+
+FIELD BOOK 7.
+
+CAMPS 105 TO 112. LATITUDE 20 1/4 TO 19 1/4 DEGREES.
+
+(Middle part of Cloncurry.)
+
+Sunday, 27th January, 1861.--Started from Camp 105 at five minutes
+past two in the morning. We followed along the bends of the creek
+by moonlight, and found the creek wind about very much, taking on
+the whole a north-east course. At about five miles it changed
+somewhat its features; from a broad and sandy channel, winding
+about through gum-tree flats, it assumes the unpropitious
+appearance of a straight, narrow creek, running in a
+north-north-east direction between high, perpendicular, earthy
+banks. After running between three or four miles in this manner, it
+took a turn to the west, at which point there is a fine waterhole,
+and then assumed its original character. Below this we found water
+at several places, but it all seemed to be either from surface
+drainage or from springs in the sand. The land in the vicinity of
+the creek appears to have received plenty of rain, the vegetation
+everywhere green and fresh; but there is no appearance of the creek
+having flowed in this part of the channel for a considerable
+period. Palm trees are numerous, and some bear an abundance of
+small, round dates (nuts) just ripening. These palms give a most
+picturesque and pleasant appearance to the creek.
+
+Wednesday, 30th January, 1861.--Started at half-past seven A.M.,
+after several unsuccessful attempts at getting Golah out of the bed
+of the creek. It was determined to try bringing him down until we
+could find a place for him to get out at; but after going in this
+way two or three miles it was found necessary to leave him behind,
+as it was almost impossible to get him through some of the
+waterholes, and had separated King from the party, which became a
+matter for very serious consideration when we found blacks hiding
+in the box trees close to us.
+
+. . .
+
+Having reached the point indicated by the last date and passage in"
+Field Book 7," Mr. Burke and my son determined to leave Gray and
+King there in charge of the camels, and to proceed onwards to the
+shores of Carpentaria, themselves on foot and leading the horse.
+The river or creek down which they passed is named in the journal
+the Cloncurry. The channel making a sudden turn, my son remarked
+that it might be a new river. "If it should prove so," said Mr.
+Burke, "we will call it after my old friend Lord Cloncurry."
+
+With reference to this locality, marked in the map as Camp 119,
+King was asked in his examination before the Royal Commissioners:
+
+Question 815. Was the water salt?--Quite salt.
+
+816. Who first made the discovery of reaching the sea, or did you
+all come upon it together; that is, reaching the salt water where
+the tide was?--Mr. Wills knew it; he had told us two or three days
+before we reached the salt water that we were in the country that
+had been discovered by Mr. Gregory and other previous explorers.
+
+817. Some days before you got upon it he told you that?--Yes, and
+showed us on the chart the supposed place where Mr. Gregory crossed
+this small creek.
+
+It will be seen by these answers of King, that Mr. Burke assumed no
+topographical knowledge of the position. The Melbourne Argus stated
+and repeated that he had mistaken the Flinders for the Albert. Now
+the river in question was never mentioned as either, and the
+mistake, if made, was Mr. Wills's and not Mr. Burke's. This portion
+of the map was said to have been lost on the morning of its arrival
+in Melbourne; and this I can readily believe, as also that more
+might have met with the same fate had I not fortunately been there.
+
+. . .
+
+FIELD BOOK 8.
+
+CAMPS 112 TO 119. SOUTH LATITUDE 19 1/4 TO 17 DEGREES 53 MINUTES.
+
+Lower part of Cloncurry.
+
+. . .
+
+FIELD BOOK 9.
+
+Returning from Carpentaria to Cooper's Creek.
+
+Sunday, February, 1861.--Finding the ground in such a state from the
+heavy falls of rain, that camels could scarcely be got along, it
+was decided to leave them at Camp 119, and for Mr. Burke and I to
+proceed towards the sea on foot. After breakfast we accordingly
+started, taking with us the horse and three days' provisions. Our
+first difficulty was in crossing Billy's Creek, which we had to do
+where it enters the river, a few hundred yards below the camp. In
+getting the horse in here, he got bogged in a quicksand bank so
+deeply as to be unable to stir, and we only succeeded in
+extricating him by undermining him on the creek's side, and then
+lugging him into the water. Having got all the things in safety, we
+continued down the river bank, which bent about from east to west,
+but kept a general north course. A great deal of the land was so
+soft and rotten that the horse, with only a saddle and about
+twenty-five pounds on his back, could scarcely walk over it. At a
+distance of about five miles we again had him bogged in crossing a
+small creek, after which he seemed so weak that we had great doubts
+about getting him on. We, however, found some better ground close
+to the water's edge, where the sandstone rock crops out, and we
+stuck to it as far as possible. Finding that the river was bending
+about so much that we were making very little progress in a
+northerly direction, we struck off due north and soon came on some
+table-land, where the soil is shallow and gravelly, and clothed
+with box and swamp gums. Patches of the land were very boggy, but
+the main portion was sound enough; beyond this we came on an open
+plain, covered with water up to one's ankles. The soil here was a
+stiff clay, and the surface very uneven, so that between the tufts
+of grass one was frequently knee deep in water. The bottom,
+however, was sound and no fear of bogging. After floundering
+through this for several miles, we came to a path formed by the
+blacks, and there were distinct signs of a recent migration in a
+southerly direction. By making use of this path we got on much
+better, for the ground was well trodden and hard. At rather more
+than a mile, the path entered a forest through which flowed a nice
+watercourse, and we had not gone far before we found places where
+the blacks had been camping. The forest was intersected by little
+pebbly rises, on which they had made their fires, and in the sandy
+ground adjoining some of the former had been digging yams, which
+seemed to be so numerous that they could afford to leave lots of
+them about, probably having only selected the very best. We were
+not so particular, but ate many of those that they had rejected,
+and found them very good. About half a mile further, we came close
+on a black fellow, who was coiling up by a camp fire, whilst his
+gin and piccaninny were yabbering alongside. We stopped for a short
+time to take out some of the pistols that were on the horse, and
+that they might see us before we were so near as to frighten them.
+Just after we stopped, the black got up to stretch his limbs, and
+after a few seconds looked in our direction. It was very amusing to
+see the way in which he stared, standing for some time as if he
+thought he must be dreaming, and then, having signalled to the
+others, they dropped on their haunches, and shuffled off in the
+quietest manner possible. Near their fire was a fine hut, the best
+I have ever seen, built on the same principle as those at Cooper's
+Creek, but much larger and more complete: I should say a dozen
+blacks might comfortably coil in it together. It is situated at the
+end of the forest towards the north, and looks out on an extensive
+marsh, which is at times flooded by the sea water. Hundreds of wild
+geese, plover and pelicans, were enjoying themselves in the
+watercourses on the marsh, all the water on which was too brackish
+to be drinkable, except some holes that are filled by the stream
+that flows through the forest. The neighbourhood of this encampment
+is one of the prettiest we have seen during the journey. Proceeding
+on our course across the marsh, we came to a channel through which
+the sea water enters. Here we passed three blacks, who, as is
+universally their custom, pointed out to us, unasked, the best part
+down. This assisted us greatly, for the ground we were taking was
+very boggy. We moved slowly down about three miles and then camped
+for the night; the horse Billy being completely baked. Next morning
+we started at daybreak, leaving the horse short hobbled.
+
+Memo.--Verbally transcribed from the Field Books of the late Mr.
+Wills. Very few words, casually omitted in the author's
+manuscripts, have been added in brackets. A few botanical
+explanations have been appended. A few separate general remarks
+referring to this portion of the diary will be published, together
+with the meteorological notes to which they are contiguous. No
+other notes in reference to this portion of the journey are extant.
+
+5/11/61 FERD. MUELLER.
+
+. . .
+
+It will be observed in following these Field Books that there
+are occasional intervals and omissions, which I account for thus:
+--My son's first entries, in pencil, are more in the form of notes,
+with observations, and figures to guide him in mapping; because,
+when his maps are accurate and attended to, his journal is
+imperfect, and vice versa. Besides, there can be no doubt that Mr.
+Burke kept a journal, though perhaps not a complete one, and of
+which a very small portion has come to hand. In it he mentions a
+difficult pass they went through on the route to Carpentaria, of
+which my son does not speak. King confirms Mr. Burke's statement,
+and says my son knew he had written it, which was the reason why he
+did not himself repeat the same passage.
+
+The Royal Commissioners in their Report said:
+
+"It does not appear that Mr. Burke kept any regular journal, or
+that he gave written instructions to his officers. Had he performed
+these essential portions of the duties of a leader, many of the
+calamities of the Expedition might have been averted, and little or
+no room would have been left for doubt in judging the conduct of
+those subordinates who pleaded unsatisfactory and contradictory
+verbal orders and statements."
+
+With all due submission and humility, I think this opinion too
+conclusive, and formed on unsatisfactory evidence, as any statement
+must be considered, proceeding from one who destroyed his own
+credit by self-contradiction to the extent that Mr. Brahe did. He
+admitted, on his examination, that he had burnt some of Mr. Burke's
+papers at Mr. Burke's own request. How then is it possible to
+determine what he may otherwise have burnt or placed out of the
+way? In fact, what written instructions, if any, he did or not
+receive, and what he did with them?
+
+CHAPTER 10.
+
+Return from Carpentaria to Cooper's Creek.
+Mr. Wills's Journals from February 19th to April 21st, 1861.
+Illness and Death of Gray.
+The Survivors arrive at Cooper's Creek Depot and find it deserted.
+A Small Stock of Provisions left.
+Conduct of Brahe.
+Report of the Royal Commission.
+
+MR. BURKE and Mr. Wills having accomplished the grand object of the
+Expedition by reaching the Gulf of Carpentaria, rejoined Gray and
+King at Camp 119, where they had left them with the camels. On the
+13th of February the party turned their faces to the south, and
+commenced their long and toilsome march in return. The entries in
+my son's journals were transcribed as follows:--
+
+Tuesday, 19th February, 1861.--Boocha's Camp.
+
+Wednesday, 20th February, 1861.--Pleasant Camp; 5R.
+
+Thursday, 21st February, 1861.--Recovery Camp; 6R. Between four
+and five o'clock a heavy thunderstorm broke over us, having given
+very little warning of its approach. There had been lightning and
+thunder towards south-east and south ever since noon yesterday. The
+rain was incessant and very heavy for an hour and a half, which
+made the ground so boggy that the animals could scarcely walk over
+it; we nevertheless started at ten minutes to seven A.M., and after
+floundering along for half an hour halted for breakfast. We then
+moved on again, but soon found that the travelling was too heavy
+for the camels, so camped for the remainder of the day. In the
+afternoon the sky cleared a little, and the sun soon dried the
+ground, considering. Shot a pheasant, and much disappointed at
+finding him all feathers and claws. This bird nearly resembles a
+cock pheasant in plumage, but in other respects it bears more the
+character of the magpie or crow; the feathers are remarkably wiry
+and coarse.
+
+Friday, 22nd February, 1861.--Camp 7R. A fearful thunderstorm in
+the evening, about eight P.M., from east-south-east, moving
+gradually round to south. The flashes of lightning were so vivid
+and incessant as to keep up a continual light for short intervals,
+overpowering the moonlight. Heavy rain and strong squalls continued
+for more than an hour, when the storm moved off west-north-west.
+The sky remained more or less overcast for the rest of the night,
+and the following morning was both sultry and oppressive, with the
+ground so boggy as to be almost impassable.
+
+Saturday, 23rd February, 1861.--Camp 8R. In spite of the
+difficulties thrown in our way by last night's storm, we crossed
+the creek, but were shortly afterwards compelled to halt for the
+day on a small patch of comparatively dry ground, near the river.
+The day turned out very fine, so that the soil dried rapidly, and
+we started in the evening to try a trip by moonlight. We were very
+fortunate in finding sound ground along a billibong, which
+permitted of our travelling for about five miles up the creek, when
+we camped for the night. The evening was most oppressively hot and
+sultry, so much so that the slightest exertion made one feel as if
+he were in a state of suffocation. The dampness of the atmosphere
+prevented any evaporation, and gave one a helpless feeling of
+lassitude that I have never before experienced to such an extent.
+All the party complained of the same symptoms, and the horses
+showed distinctly the effect of the evening trip, short as it was.
+We had scarcely turned in half an hour when it began to rain, some
+heavy clouds having come up from the eastward in place of the layer
+of small cirrocumulus that before ornamented the greater portion of
+the sky. These clouds soon moved on, and we were relieved from the
+dread of additional mud. After the sky cleared, the atmosphere
+became rather cooler and less sultry, so that, with the assistance
+of a little smoke to keep the mosquitoes off, we managed to pass a
+tolerable night.
+
+Sunday, 24th February, 1861.--Camp 9R. Comparatively little rain
+has fallen above the branch creek with the running water. The
+vegetation, although tolerably fresh, is not so rank as that we
+have left; the water in the creek is muddy, but good, and has been
+derived merely from the surface drainage of the adjoining plains.
+The Melaleneus continues on this branch creek, which creeps along
+at the foot of the ranges.
+
+Monday, 25th February, 1861.--Camp 10R. There has been very little
+rain on this portion of the creek since we passed down; there was,
+however, no water at all then at the pans. At the Tea-tree spring,
+a short distance up the creek, we found plenty of water in the
+sand, but it had a disagreeable taste, from the decomposition of
+leaves and the presence of mineral matter, probably iron. There
+seems to have been a fair share of rain along here, everything is
+so very fresh and green, and there is water in many of the channels
+we have crossed.
+
+Tuesday, 26th February, 1861.--Apple-tree Camp; 11R.
+
+Thursday, 28th February, 1861.--Reedy Gully Camp; 12R. Came into
+the Reedy Gully Camp about midnight on Tuesday, the 26th; remained
+there throughout the day on Wednesday; starting at two A.M. on
+Thursday.
+
+Friday, 1st March, 1861.--Camp of the Three Crows; 13R.
+
+Saturday, 2nd March, 1861.--Salt-bush Camp; 14R. Found Golah. He
+looks thin and miserable; seems to have fretted a great deal,
+probably at finding himself left behind, and he has been walking up
+and down our tracks till he has made a regular pathway; could find
+no sign of his having been far off, although there is a splendid
+feed to which he could have gone. He began to eat as soon as he saw
+the other camels.
+
+Sunday, 3rd March, 1861.--Eureka Camp; 15R. In crossing a creek by
+moonlight, Charley rode over a large snake; he did not touch him,
+and we thought that it was a log until he struck it with the
+stirrup iron; we then saw that it was an immense snake, larger than
+any I have ever before seen in a wild state. It measured eight feet
+four inches in length and seven inches in girth round the belly; it
+was nearly the same thickness from the head to within twenty inches
+of the tail; it then tapered rapidly. The weight was 11 1/2 pounds.
+From the tip of the nose to five inches back, the neck was black,
+both above and below; throughout the rest of the body, the under
+part was yellow, and the sides and back had irregular brown
+transverse bars on a yellowish brown ground. I could detect no
+poisonous fangs, but there were two distinct rows of teeth in each
+jaw, and two small claws of nails, about three-eighths of an inch
+long, one on each side of the vent.
+
+Monday, 4th March, 1861.--Feasting Camp; 16R. Shortly after
+arriving at Camp 16 we could frequently hear distant thunder
+towards the east, from which quarter the wind was blowing. During
+the afternoon there were frequent heavy showers, and towards
+evening it set in to rain steadily but lightly; this lasted till
+about eight P.M., when the rain ceased and the wind got round to
+west; the sky, however, remained overcast until late in the night,
+and then cleared for a short time; the clouds were soon succeeded
+by a dense fog or mist, which continued until morning. The vapour
+having then risen, occupied the upper air in the form of light
+cirrostratus and cumulus clouds.
+
+Tuesday, 5th March, 1861.--Camp 17R. Started at two A.M. on a
+south-south-westerly course, but had soon to turn in on the creek,
+as Mr. Burke felt very unwell, having been attacked by dysentery
+since eating the snake; he now felt giddy and unable to keep his
+seat. At six A.M., Mr. Burke feeling better, we started again,
+following along the creek, in which there was considerably more
+water than when we passed down. We camped, at 2.15 P.M., at a part
+of the creek where the date trees [Footnote: Probably Livistonas.]
+were very numerous, and found the fruit nearly ripe and very much
+improved on what it was when we were here before.
+
+Wednesday, 6th March, 1861.--Camp 18R. Arrived at our former camp,
+and found the feed richer than ever, and the ants just as
+troublesome. Mr. Burke is a little better, and Charley looks
+comparatively well. The dryness of the atmosphere seems to have a
+beneficial effect on all. We found yesterday, that it was a
+hopeless matter about Golah, and we were obliged to leave him
+behind, as he seemed to be completely done up and could not come
+on, even when the pack and saddle were taken off.
+
+Thursday, 7th March, 1861.--Fig-tree Camp; 19R; Palm-tree Camp,
+104, and 20 degrees Latitude, by observation, coming down, 20
+degrees 21 minutes 40 seconds. There is less water here than there
+was when we passed down, although there is evidence of the creek
+having been visited by considerable floods during the interval.
+Feed is abundant, and the vegetation more fresh than before. Mr.
+Burke almost recovered, but Charley is again very unwell and unfit
+to do anything; he caught cold last night through carelessness in
+covering himself.
+
+Friday, 8th March, 1861.--Camp 20R. Followed the creek more closely
+coming up than going down. Found more water in it generally.
+
+Saturday, 9th March, 1861.--Camp 21R. Reached our former camp at 1.
+30 P.M. Found the herbage much dried up, but still plenty of feed
+for the camels.
+
+Sunday, 10th March, 1861.--Camp 22R. Camped at the junction of a
+small creek from the westward, a short distance below our former
+camp, there being plenty of good water here, whereas the supply at
+Specimen Camp is very doubtful.
+
+Monday, 11th March, 1861.--Camp 23R. Halted for breakfast at the
+Specimen Camp at 7.15 A.M., found more water and feed there than
+before; then proceeded up the creek and got safely over the most
+dangerous part of our journey. Camped near the head of the Gap in a
+flat, about two miles below our former camp at the Gap.
+
+Tuesday, 12th March, 1861.--Camp 24R.
+
+Wednesday, 13th March, 1861.--Camp 25R. Rain all day, so heavily
+that I was obliged to put my watch and field book in the pack to
+keep them dry. In the afternoon the rain increased, and all the
+creeks became flooded. We took shelter under some fallen rocks,
+near which was some feed for the camels; but the latter was of no
+value, for we had soon to remove them up amongst the rocks, out of
+the way of the flood, which fortunately did not rise high enough to
+drive us out of the cave; but we were obliged to shift our packs to
+the upper part. In the evening the water fell as rapidly as it had
+risen, leaving everything in a very boggy state. There were
+frequent light showers during the night.
+
+Thursday, 14th March, 1861.--Camp 26R; Sandstone cave. The water in
+the creek having fallen sufficiently low, we crossed over from the
+cave and proceeded down the creek. Our progress was slow, as it was
+necessary to keep on the stony ridge instead of following the
+flats, the latter being very boggy after the rain. Thinking that
+this creek must join Scratchley's, near our old camp, we followed
+it a long way, until finding it trend altogether too much eastward,
+we tried to shape across for the other creek, but were unable to do
+so, from the boggy nature of the intervening plain.
+
+Friday, 15th March, 1861.--Camp 27R.
+
+Saturday, 16th March, 1861.--Camp 28R. Scratchley's Creek.
+
+Sunday, 17th March, 1861.--Camp 29R.
+
+Monday, 18th March, 1861.--Camp 30R.
+
+Tuesday, 19th March, 1861.--Camp 31R.
+
+Wednesday, 20th March, 1861.--Camp 32R. Feasting Camp. Last evening
+the sky was clouded about nine P.M., and a shower came down from
+the north. At ten o'clock it became so dark that we camped on the
+bank of the creek, in which was a nice current of clear water.
+To-day we halted, intending to try a night journey. The packs we
+overhauled and left nearly 60 pounds weight of things behind. They
+were all suspended in a pack from the branches of a shrub close to
+the creek. We started at a quarter to six, but were continually
+pulled up by billibongs and branch creeks, and soon had to camp for
+the night. At the junction of the two creeks just above are the
+three cones, which are three remarkably small hills to the
+eastward.
+
+Thursday, 21st March, 1861.--Humid Camp, 33R.--Unable to proceed on
+account of the slippery and boggy state of the ground. The rain has
+fallen very heavily here to-day, and every little depression in the
+ground is either full of water or covered with slimy mud. Another
+heavy storm passed over during the night, almost extinguishing the
+miserable fire we were able to get up with our very limited
+quantity of waterlogged and green wood. Having been so unfortunate
+last night, we took an early breakfast this morning at Camp 33,
+which I had named the Humid Camp, from the state of dampness in
+which we found everything there; and crossing to the east bank of
+the main creek, proceeded in a southerly direction nearly parallel
+with the creek. Some of the flats near the creek contain the
+richest alluvial soil, and are clothed with luxuriant vegetation.
+There is an immense extent of plain, back, of the finest character
+for pastoral purposes, and the country bears every appearance of
+being permanently well watered. We halted on a large billibong at
+noon, and were favoured during dinner by a thunderstorm, the
+heavier portion of which missed us, some passing north and some
+south, which was fortunate, as it would otherwise have spoiled our
+baking process, a matter of some importance just now. We started
+again at seven o'clock, but the effects of the heavy rain prevented
+our making a good journey.
+
+Friday, 22nd March, 1861.--Muddy Camp, 34R.--Had an early breakfast
+this morning, and started before sunrise. Found that the wet swampy
+ground that checked our progress last night was only a narrow
+strip, and that had we gone a little further we might have made a
+fine journey. The country consisted of open, well-grassed, pebbly
+plains, intersected by numerous small channels, all containing
+water. Abundance of fine rich portulac was just bursting into
+flower along all these channels, as well as on the greater portion
+of the plain. The creek that we camped on last night ran nearly
+parallel with us throughout this stage. We should have crossed it,
+to avoid the stony plains, but were prevented by the flood from so
+doing.
+
+Saturday, 23rd March, 1861.--Mosquito Camp, 35R.--Started at a
+quarter to six and followed down the creek, which has much of the
+characteristic appearance of the River Burke, where we crossed it
+on our up journey. The land in the vicinity greatly improves as one
+goes down, becoming less stony and better grassed. At eleven
+o'clock we crossed a small tributary from the eastward, and there
+was a distant range of considerable extent visible in that
+direction. Halted for the afternoon in a bend where there was
+tolerable feed, but the banks are everywhere more or less scrubby.
+
+Sunday, 24th March, 1861.--Three-hour Camp, 36R.
+
+Monday, 25th March, 1861.--Native-Dog Camp, 37R.--Started at
+half-past five, looking for a good place to halt for the day. This
+we found at a short distance down the creek, and immediately
+discovered that it was close to Camp 89 of our up journey. Had not
+expected that we were so much to the westward. After breakfast,
+took some time-altitudes, and was about to go back to last camp for
+some things that had been left, when I found Gray behind a tree
+eating skilligolee. He explained that he was suffering from
+dysentery, and had taken the flour without leave. Sent him to
+report himself to Mr. Burke, and went on. He, having got King to
+tell Mr. Burke for him, was called up, and received a good
+thrashing. There is no knowing to what extent he has been robbing
+us. Many things have been found to run unaccountably short. Started
+at seven o'clock, the camels in first-rate spirits. We followed our
+old course back (south). The first portion of the plains had much
+the same appearance as when we came up, but that near Camp 88,
+which then looked so fresh and green, is now very much dried up;
+and we saw no signs of water anywhere. In fact, there seems to have
+been little or no rain about here since we passed. Soon after three
+o'clock we struck the first of several small creeks or billibongs,
+which must be portions of the creek with the deep channel that we
+crossed on going up, we being now rather to the westward of our
+former course. From here, after traversing about two miles of the
+barest clay plain, devoid of all vegetation, we reached a small
+watercourse, most of the holes in which contained some water of a
+milky or creamy description. Fine salt bush and portulac being
+abundant in the vicinity, we camped here at 4.30 A.M. When we
+started in the evening, a strong breeze had already sprung up in
+the south, which conveyed much of the characteristic feeling of a
+hot wind. It increased gradually to a force of five and six, but by
+eleven o'clock had become decidedly cool, and was so chilly towards
+morning that we found it necessary to throw on our ponchos. A few
+cirrocumulus clouds were coming up from the east when we started,
+but we left them behind, and nothing was visible during the night
+but a thin hazy veil. The gale continued throughout the 26th,
+becoming warmer as the day advanced. In the afternoon it blew
+furiously, raising a good deal of dust. The temperature of air at
+four P.M. was 84 degrees in the shade. Wind trees all day.
+
+. . .
+
+This last entry contains an unpleasant record of poor
+Gray's delinquency. He appears to have been hitherto rather a
+favourite with my son.
+
+King, on his examination before the Royal Commission, finding that
+Mr. Burke was censured for chastising Gray, at first denied it
+strongly. My son only relates in his diary what Mr. Burke had told
+him; "I have given Gray a good thrashing, and well he deserved it."
+King blamed my son for mentioning this, but admitted that Mr. Burke
+gave Gray several slaps on the head; afterwards, seeing that Mr.
+Burke was found fault with for not keeping a journal, King was made
+to appear to say that Mr. Wills's journal was written in
+conjunction with and under the supervision of Mr. Burke; and thus
+accounted for the absence of one by Mr. Burke. I was present at
+King's examination, and can bear witness that he said nothing of
+the kind. His answers, as given in the Royal Commission Report,
+were framed to suit the questions of the interrogator, which
+appeared to astonish King, and he made no reply. King's statements,
+as far as he understood what he was asked, I believe to have been
+generally very truthful, and honestly given.
+
+After March 25th, an interval of three days occurs, in which
+nothing is noted. Gray's illness, attending to the maps, with extra
+labour, may account for this omission.
+
+. . .
+
+March 29.--Camels' last feast; fine green feed at this camp:
+plenty of vines and young polygonums on the small billibongs.
+
+March 30.--Boocha's rest.--Poor Boocha was killed; employed all day
+in cutting up and jerking him: the day turned out as favourable for
+us as we could have wished, and a considerable portion of the meat
+was completely jerked before sunset.
+
+March 31.--Mia Mia Camp.--Plenty of good dry feed; various shrubs;
+salt bushes, including cotton bush and some coarse kangaroo grass;
+water in the hollows on the stony pavement. The neighbouring
+country chiefly composed of stony rises and sand ridges.
+
+April 5--Oil Camp.--Earthy and clayey plains, generally sound and
+tolerably grassed, but in other places bare salt bush, and
+withered.
+
+April 6 and 7.--Earthy flats, cut into innumerable water courses,
+succeeded by fine open plains, generally very bare, but having in
+some places patches of fine salt bush. The dead stalks of portulac
+and mallows show that those plants are very plentiful in some
+seasons. Towards noon came upon earthy plains and numerous
+billibongs. The next day the water and feed much dried up, and
+nearly all the water has a slightly brackish taste of a peculiar
+kind, somewhat resembling in flavour potassio-tartrate of soda
+(cream of tartar).
+
+On the 8th, poor Gray, suffering under the bad odour of his
+peculations, was thought to be pretending illness, because he could
+not walk, and my son, when he was himself ill, much regretted their
+suspicions on this point; but it appears from King's evidence, that
+Gray's excuse for using the provisions surreptitiously, that he was
+attacked by dysentery, was without foundation.
+
+Monday, April 8.--Camp 50R.--Camped a short distance above Camp 75.
+The creek here contains more water, and there is a considerable
+quantity of green grass in its bed, but it is much dried up since
+we passed before. Halted fifteen minutes to send back for Gray, who
+pretended that he could not walk. Some good showers must have
+fallen lately, as we have passed surface water on the plains every
+day. In the latter portion of to-day's journey, the young grass and
+portulac are springing freshly in the flats, and on the sides of
+the sand ridges.
+
+Tuesday, April 9.--Camp 51R.--Camped on the bank of the creek,
+where there is a regular field of salt bush, as well as some grass
+in its bed, very acceptable to the horse, who has not had a proper
+feed for the last week until last night, and is, consequently,
+nearly knocked up.
+
+Wednesday, April 10.--Camp 52R.--Remained at Camp 52 R all day, to
+cut up and jerk the meat of the horse Billy, who was so reduced and
+knocked up for want of food that there appeared little chance of
+his reaching the other side of the desert; and as we were running
+short of food of every description ourselves, we thought it best to
+secure his flesh at once. We found it healthy and tender, but
+without the slightest trace of fat in any portion of the body.
+
+. . .
+
+In the journal to the Fifteenth, there is nothing worthy of note;
+there were watercourses daily, the character of the country the
+same; the plants chiefly chrysanthemums and salt bush. On the
+latter day it rained heavily, commenced at five in the morning, and
+continued pretty steadily throughout the day. The camel, Linda, got
+knocked up owing to the wet, and having to cross numerous sand
+ridges; and at four o'clock they had to halt at a clay-pan among
+the sandhills.
+
+On Wednesday, the 17th, my son notes the death of poor Gray: "He
+had not spoken a word distinctly since his first attack, which was
+just about as we were going to start." Here King mentions that they
+remained one day to bury Gray. They were so weak, he said, that it
+was with difficulty they could dig a grave sufficiently deep to
+inter him in. This is not in the journal, but in King's narrative.
+
+. . .
+
+On the 19th, camped again without water, on the sandy bed of
+the creek, having been followed by a lot of natives who were
+desirous of our company; but as we preferred camping alone, we were
+compelled to move on until rather late, in order to get away from
+them. The night was very cold. A strong breeze was blowing from the
+south, which made the fire so irregular that, as on the two
+previous nights, it was impossible to keep up a fair temperature.
+Our general course throughout the day had been south-south-east.
+
+. . .
+
+On Sunday, April 21, the survivors, Mr. Burke, my son, King, and two
+camels, reached Cooper's Creek at the exact place where the depot
+party had been left under Brahe. THERE WAS NO ONE THERE! During the
+last few days every exertion had been made, every nerve strained to
+reach the goal of their arduous labours--the spot where they
+expected to find rest, clothing, and provisions in abundance. King
+describes in vivid language the exertions of that last ride of
+thirty miles; and Burke's delight when he thought he saw the depot
+camp; "There they are!" he exclaimed; "I see them!" The wish was
+"father to the thought." Lost and bewildered in amazement, he
+appeared like one stupefied when the appalling truth burst on him.
+King has often described to me the scene. "Mr. Wills looked about
+him in all directions. Presently he said, 'King, they are gone;'
+pointing a short way off to a spot, 'there are the things they have
+left.' Then he and I set to work to dig them up, which we did in a
+short time. Mr. Burke at first was quite overwhelmed, and flung
+himself on the ground." But soon recovering, they all three set to
+work to cook some victuals. When thus refreshed, my son made the
+following entry in his journal:
+
+Sunday, April 21.--Arrived at the depot this evening, just in time
+to find it deserted. A note left in the plant by Brahe communicates
+the pleasing information that they have started today for the
+Darling; their camels and horses all well and in good condition. We
+and our camels being just done up, and scarcely able to reach the
+depot, have very little chance of overtaking them. Brahe has
+fortunately left us ample provisions to take us to the bounds of
+civilization namely:--Flour, 50 pounds; rice, 20 pounds; oatmeal,
+60 pounds; sugar, 60 pounds; and dried meat, 15 pounds. These
+provisions, together with a few horse-shoes and nails, and some
+odds and ends, constitute all the articles left, and place us in a
+very awkward position in respect to clothing. Our disappointment at
+finding the depot deserted may easily be imagined;--returning in an
+exhausted state, after four months of the severest travelling and
+privation, our legs almost paralyzed, so that each of us found it a
+most trying task only to walk a few yards. Such a leg-bound feeling
+I never before experienced, and hope I never shall again. The
+exertion required to get up a slight piece of rising ground, even
+without any load, induces an indescribable sensation of pain and
+helplessness, and the general lassitude makes one unfit for
+anything. Poor Gray must have suffered very much many times when we
+thought him shamming. It is most fortunate for us that these
+symptoms, which so early affected him, did not come on us until we
+were reduced to an exclusively animal diet of such an inferior
+description as that offered by the flesh of a worn-out and
+exhausted horse. We were not long in getting out the grub that
+Brahe had left, and we made a good supper off some oatmeal porridge
+and sugar. This, together with the excitement of finding ourselves
+in such a peculiar and most unexpected position, had a wonderful
+effect in removing the stiffness from our legs. Whether it is
+possible that the vegetables can have so affected us, I know not;
+but both Mr. Burke and I remarked a most decided relief and a
+strength in the legs greater than we had had for several days. I am
+inclined to think that but for the abundance of portulac that we
+obtained on the journey, we should scarcely have returned to
+Cooper's Creek at all.
+
+. . .
+
+I asked King how my son behaved. His answer was, that he never
+once showed the slightest anger or loss of self-command. From under
+a tree on which had been marked, "DIG, 21st April, 1861," a box was
+extracted containing the provisions, and a bottle with the
+following note:--
+
+Depot, Cooper's Creek, April 21, 1861.
+
+The depot party of the V.E.E. leaves this camp to-day to return
+to the Darling. I intend to go south-east from Camp 60 to get into
+our old track near Bulloo. Two of my companions and myself are
+quite well; the third, Patten, has been unable to walk for the last
+eighteen days, as his leg has been severely hurt when thrown by one
+of the horses. No one has been up here from the Darling. We have
+six camels and twelve horses in good working condition.
+
+WILLIAM BRAHE.
+
+. . .
+
+Brahe has been blamed for not having left a true statement of
+his condition, and that of those with him; but it was truth when he
+wrote it. He believed Patten's to have been a sprain. It was
+afterwards that he contradicted himself, in his journal WRITTEN IN
+MELBOURNE, and in his evidence before the Royal Commission. Brahe
+had no journal when he came down the first time with a message from
+Wright, and was requested, or ordered, by the committee to produce
+one, which he subsequently did. In this journal, Brahe enters, on
+the 15th April:
+
+Patten is getting worse. I and McDonough begin to feel ALARMING
+SYMPTOMS of the same disease (namely, a sprain).
+
+April 18.--There is no probability of Mr. Burke returning this way.
+Patten is in a deplorable state, and desirous of returning to the
+Darling to obtain medical assistance; and our provisions will soon
+be reduced to a quantity insufficient to take us back to the
+Darling if the trip should turn out difficult and tedious. Being
+also sure that I and McDonough would not much longer escape scurvy,
+I, after most seriously considering all circumstances, made up my
+mind to start for the Darling on Sunday next, the 21st.
+
+. . .
+
+That day he abandoned the depot at ten A.M. leaving 50 pounds
+of flour, taking with him 150 pounds; leaving 50 pounds of oatmeal,
+taking ABOUT 70 pounds; leaving 50 pounds of sugar, taking 75
+pounds; leaving rice 30 pounds, taking one bag. He left neither tea
+nor biscuits, and took all the clothes, being the property of Mr.
+Wills. The latter, he said before the Royal Commissioners, were
+only shirts, omitting the word flannel, and added that they were
+badly off themselves. He was asked:--
+
+Question 323: Had you any clothes of any description at
+Cooper's Creek that might have been left?--Yes, I had a parcel of
+clothes that were left with me by Mr. Wills; these were all that I
+know of, and we ourselves were very badly off.
+
+Question 1729. By Dr. Wills (through the chairman)--I wish to know
+whether a portmanteau was left with you, belonging to Mr. Wills, my
+son? Yes, a bag, a calico bag containing clothes.
+
+1730.--You were aware it was his own property?--I was.
+
+1731.--What made you take those clothes back to Menindie, and not
+leave them in the cache?--Mr. Wills was better supplied than any
+other member of the party, and I certainly did not think he would
+be in want of clothes.
+
+. . .
+
+With a somewhat unaccountable disposition to sympathize with Brahe,
+on the part of the Committee and the Royal Commission, the latter
+summed up their impression of his conduct thus:
+
+The conduct of Mr. Brahe in retiring from his position at the depot
+before he was rejoined by his commander, or relieved from the
+Darling, may be deserving of considerable censure; but we are of
+opinion that a responsibility far beyond his expectations devolved
+upon him; and it must be borne in mind that, with the assurance of
+his leader, and his own conviction that he might each day expect to
+be relieved by Mr. Wright, he still held his post for four months
+and five days; and that only when pressed by the appeals of a
+comrade sickening even to death, as was subsequently proved, his
+powers of endurance gave way, and he retired from the position
+which could alone afford succour to the weary explorers should they
+return by that route. His decision was most unfortunate; but we
+believe he acted from a conscientious desire to discharge his duty,
+and we are confident that the painful reflection that twenty-four
+hours' further perseverance would have made him the rescuer of the
+explorers, and gained for himself the praise and approbation of
+all, must be of itself an agonizing thought, without the addition
+of censure he might feel himself undeserving of.
+
+CHAPTER 11.
+
+Proceedings in Melbourne.
+Meeting of the Exploration Committee.
+Tardy Resolutions.
+Departure of Mr. Howitt.
+Patriotic Effort of Mr. Orkney.
+South Australian Expedition under Mr. McKinlay.
+News of White Men and Camels having been seen by Natives
+   in the Interior.
+Certain Intelligence of the Fate of the Explorers reaches Melbourne.
+
+IN March, 1861, I began, in the absence of all intelligence, to
+feel some apprehension for my son's safety, and the result of the
+expedition. On the 8th, Professor Neumayer, in reply to a letter
+from me, said: "You have asked me about the Exploring Expedition,
+and it is really a difficult matter to give a definite answer to
+the question. I think that by this time the party must have reached
+the Gulf of Carpentaria, supposing them to have proceeded in that
+direction. In fact, I think they may have recrossed already a great
+part of the desert country, if everything went on smoothly after
+leaving Cooper's Creek. I have a thorough confidence in Mr. Wills's
+character and energy, and I am sure they will never fail. I cannot
+help regretting that the Committee should not have understood the
+force of my arguments, when I advised them to send the expedition
+towards the north-west. This would very likely have forwarded the
+task considerably. My feeling is not very strong as to the results
+we may expect from the present attempt. Indeed, as far as science
+and practical advantages are concerned, I look upon the whole as a
+mistake. Mr. Wills is entirely alone; he has no one to assist him
+in his zeal, and take a part of his onerous duties from him. Had he
+been put in a position to make valuable magnetic observations, he
+would have earned the thanks of the scientific world. But, under
+existing circumstances, he can do nothing at all for the
+advancement of this particular branch. However, I hope future
+expeditions will afford him an opportunity to fill up that
+deficiency, if he should now be successful. The affair with
+Landells was nothing more nor less than what I expected and was
+quite prepared to hear. The man was not more qualified for the task
+he undertook than he would have been for any scientific position in
+the expedition. I am confident Mr. Wills is all right, and that Mr.
+Burke and he will agree well together."
+
+All this was complimentary and gratifying to a father's feelings.
+Still, as time passed on, forebodings came upon me that this great
+expedition, starting with so much display from Melbourne, with a
+steady, declared, and scientific object, would dwindle down into a
+flying light corps, making a sudden dash across the continent and
+back again with no permanent results. Discharges and resignations
+had taken place, and no efforts were made by the committee to fill
+up the vacancies. No assistant surveyor had been sent to my son, no
+successor appointed to Dr. Beckler. The last-named gentleman
+brought back many of the scientific instruments intrusted to his
+charge, alleging that if he had not done so, Mr. Burke, who was
+unscientific and impatient of the time lost in making and
+registering observations, threatened to throw them into the next
+creek. The supineness of the committee was justly, not too severely
+commented on in the Report of the Royal Commission: "The
+Exploration Committee, in overlooking the importance of the
+contents of Mr. Burke's despatch from Torowoto, and in not urging
+Mr. Wright's departure from the Darling, committed errors of a
+serious nature. A means of knowledge of the delay of the party at
+Menindie was in possession of the committee, not indeed by direct
+communication to that effect, but through the receipt of letters
+from Drs. Becker and Beckler, at various dates up to the end of
+November;--without, however, awakening the committee to a sense of
+the vital importance of Mr. Burke's request in that despatch that
+he should 'be soon followed up;'--or to a consideration of the
+disastrous consequences which would be likely to result, and did
+unfortunately result, from the fatal inactivity and idling of Mr.
+Wright and his party on the Darling."
+
+During the month of March, the Argus newspaper called attention to
+the matter, and a letter, signed Lockhart Moreton, expressed itself
+thus "What has become of the expedition? Surely the committee are
+not alive to the necessity of sending some one up? Burke has by
+this time crossed the continent, or is lost. What has become of
+Wright? What is he doing?"
+
+Then came a letter from Menindie, expressing strong opinions on the
+state of affairs, but flattering to my son. It was evident to me
+that these gentlemen knew or thought more than they felt disposed
+to state directly in words. I have already mentioned that Mr.
+Burke, while within the districts where newspapers could reach him,
+had been harassed, from the time of his appointment, by remarks in
+the public prints, evidently proceeding from parties and their
+friends who thought the honour of leading this grand procession
+more properly belonged to themselves. Being a gentleman of
+sensitive feelings, these observations touched him to the quick.
+When he was no longer within reach, they still continued, but he
+found defenders in the all-powerful Argus. I am sorry to say, for
+the sake of human nature, that there were some who went so far as
+to wish no successful result to his enterprise.
+
+Believing and trusting that these remarks of Mr. Moreton and
+others, would stir up the committee to take some steps to ascertain
+if Mr. Wright was moving in his duty, I contented myself with
+writing to the Magnetic Observatory, to learn from Professor
+Neumayer what was going on. He being absent on scientific tours, I
+received answers from his locum tenens, to the effect that within a
+month certain information was expected. The committee I did not
+trouble, as their Honorary Secretary had deigned no reply to
+letters I had previously sent.
+
+In the month of June, unable to bear longer suspense, with a small
+pack on my shoulders and a stick in my hand, I walked from
+Ballaarat to Melbourne, a distance of seventy-five miles, stopping
+for a couple of nights on the way at the house of a kind and
+hospitable friend, Dugald McPherson, Esquire, J.P., at Bungel-Tap.
+This gentleman has built a substantial mansion there, in the
+Elizabethan style, likely, from its solidity, to last for
+centuries. I arrived at Melbourne on Saturday, the 16th of June. On
+Monday, the 18th, I called on the Honourable David Wilkie, honorary
+treasurer to the committee. I found him issuing circulars for a
+meeting to consider what was to be done. My heart sank within me
+when I found that no measures whatever had yet been taken. I called
+on those I knew amongst the committee to entreat their attendance.
+I hastened to Professor Neumayer, with reference to Mr. Lockhart's
+letter, to ask if it had been arranged with Mr. Burke that a vessel
+should be despatched round the coast to the Gulf to meet him there.
+His answer was that a conversation on that point had taken place
+between Mr. Burke, my son, and himself, but that Mr. Burke had
+enjoined him (the professor) not to move in it, for that, if so
+disposed, he would himself apply to the committee by letter.
+
+A meeting took place on the evening of the 18th. The opinions were
+as numerous as the members in attendance. Quot homines tot
+sententiae. One talked of financial affairs, another of science, a
+third of geography, a fourth of astronomy, and so on. A chapter in
+the Circumlocution Office painfully unfolded itself. Mr. Ligar
+rather rudely asked me what I was in such alarm about; observed
+that "there was plenty of time; no news was good news; and I had
+better go home and mind my own business." I felt hurt, naturally
+enough, some of my readers may suppose, and replied that had I not
+been convinced something was doing, I should scarcely have remained
+quiet at Ballaarat for three months. A gentleman, with whom I had
+no previous acquaintance, seeing my anxiety, and feeling that the
+emergency called for immediate action, appealed to them warmly, and
+the result was a decision, nemine contradicente, that it was time
+to move, if active and trustworthy agents could be found. I offered
+my services for one, but the meeting adjourned without coming to
+any decision, and was followed by other indefinite meetings and
+adjournments de die in diem.
+
+On the following day, Dr. Macadam, Honorary Secretary, attended
+(the press of the morning had incited movement) and announced the
+welcome intelligence that Mr. A. Howitt was in Melbourne; that he
+had seen him; that he was ready to go on the shortest notice. So
+far all was good. But now I saw the full misery and imbecility of
+leaving a large body to decide what should have been delegated to a
+quorum of three at the most. The meetings took place regularly, but
+the same members seldom attended twice. New illusions and conceits
+suggested themselves as often as different committee-men found it
+convenient to deliver their opinions and vouchsafe their presence.
+Let me here specially except Ferdinand Mueller, M.D. and F.R.S., of
+London, who though a foreigner, a Dane by birth, I believe, has won
+by his talents that honourable distinction. His energy in all he
+undertakes is untiring and unsurpassable. On this occasion he was
+ever active and unremitting, while his sympathy and kindness to
+myself have never varied from the first day of our acquaintance.
+The Honourable David Wilkie, at whose private house we met nightly,
+deserves the highest credit for expediting the business, which
+ended in the despatch of the party under Mr. Howitt. Mr. Heales
+also, then Chief Secretary for the Colony, promised assistance in
+money, and the use of the Victoria steamer, under Captain Norman,
+to be sent round to the Gulf of Carpentaria as soon as she could be
+got ready.
+
+The Melbourne Argus, of June 19th, contained the following leading
+article:--
+
+The public will be glad to learn that the Exploration Committee
+of the Royal Society have at length resolved to set about partly
+doing what in April last we urged upon them. A small party is to be
+despatched to Cooper's Creek with means to supply necessaries to
+the Exploring Expedition, and to make all possible efforts to
+ascertain the whereabouts of Mr. Burke. It is well this should be
+done, and that quickly, for we some eight months since learned that
+Mr. Burke had provisions calculated to last his party for five
+months only. But this is not all that should be done. When
+referring to this subject two months ago, basing our calculations
+on the knowledge we then had--and it has since received no
+increase--we reckoned that Mr. Burke, who left Menindie on the 19th
+of October last, would reach Cooper's Creek by the beginning of
+November, and that if he determined upon making for the Gulf of
+Carpentaria, he might be expected to reach the north coast by about
+the middle of March last. If his provisions enabled him to do this,
+it is unlikely they would suffice him for a return journey
+southwards, or an expedition westward. We cannot think, then, that
+a party sent to Cooper's Creek should be regarded as sufficient.
+Why should not the Victoria be utilized? Were she sent round the
+west coast to the point Mr. Burke might be expected to strike--if,
+instead of bearing north, after reaching the centre, he has turned
+westward, as we anticipated he might do--he would possibly be heard
+of there. If not, the Victoria would be still so far on her way to
+the Gulf of Carpentaria--the only other goal he is likely to aim at
+reaching. Two expeditions, therefore, should at once be
+despatched--the party to Cooper's Creek, and the colonial steamer
+round the coast. Let it not be said to our disgrace that anything
+has been neglected which money or energy could have done to insure
+the safety of the men who have devoted themselves to a work in
+which the whole civilized world is interested, and of which, if now
+carried on with success, this colony will reap all the glory. It is
+a work which all men must have at heart, whether as lovers of their
+fellow-men, of science, or of their country. Let it not be marred
+by aught of niggardliness or supineness. The work must be well and
+quickly done. The progress of Mr. Stuart and of Mr. Burke is now
+watched with the warmest interest and sympathy by men of science in
+Europe. Mr. Stuart is well and generously cared for by the South
+Australian Government and people. What will be said if Victoria
+alone, by parsimony or apathy, allowed her Exploring Expedition to
+fail or her public servants to suffer unnecessary hardships, or
+even death?
+
+As to the men to whom the inland expedition is to be intrusted,
+some conversation took place at the recent meeting of the
+Exploration Committee. Dr. Wills, of Ballaarat, father of Mr.
+Wills, second in command with Mr. Burke, was present, and offered
+to accompany the party. Professor Neumayer suggested a gentleman
+named Walsh, from his own office, as suitable for the enterprise;
+and Dr. Embling, it is rumoured, supports Mr. Landells as a fit
+person for the post of leader. We have nothing to say for or
+against the two former suggestions, but this last demands notice.
+We consider that Mr. Landells has already shown himself singularly
+unfitted to fill a post of this kind.
+
+. . .
+
+Mr. Howitt's offer did away with the necessity for my pressing
+to go. Although I felt tolerably confident in my own physical
+powers, I should have much regretted had they failed on experiment,
+and thereby retarded rather than aided the object in view. Mr.
+Walsh went, but was of no service, as he lost the sight of one eye
+in the first observation he attempted to make; but Mr. Howitt
+proved equal to the emergency and did the work. [Footnote: A
+strange incident connected with Mr. Walsh's misfortune was reported
+abroad, but I do not vouch for its truth. When under surgical
+treatment for his impaired vision, it was said that the operators
+in consultation decided on an experiment to test the powers of the
+retina to receive light, and in so doing blinded the other eye. Mr.
+Walsh went to England, having had a sum granted to him by the
+Victoria government. Whether he has recovered his sight I know not.]
+
+Mr. Howitt being equipped and despatched, I returned to Ballaarat,
+somewhat relieved, after my fortnight's anxious labours with the
+committee; but on the evening of Friday, the 5th of July, I was
+startled by reading the following statement in the Melbourne Weekly
+Age:--
+
+THE NEWS FROM THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION.
+
+The unexpected news of Mr. Burke's expedition of discovery, which we
+publish this morning, is positively disastrous. The entire company
+of explorers has been dissipated out of being, like dewdrops before
+the sun. Some are dead, some are on their way back, one has come to
+Melbourne, and another has made his way to Adelaide, whilst only
+four of the whole party have gone forward from the depot at
+Cooper's Creek upon the main journey of the expedition to explore
+the remote interior. The four consist of the two chief officers and
+two men; namely, Mr. Burke, the leader, and Mr. Wills, the surveyor
+and second in command of the party, together with the men King and
+Gray. This devoted little band left Cooper's Creek for the far
+interior on the 16th of December last, more than six months ago,
+taking with them six camels and one horse, and only twelve weeks'
+provisions. From Mr. Burke's despatch we learn that he meant to
+proceed in the first place to Eyre's Creek; and from that place he
+would make an effort to explore the country northward in the
+direction of the Gulf of Carpentaria. He states also that he meant
+to return to Cooper's Creek within three months at the farthest;
+that is, about the middle of March. Before starting on this route
+he had already tried a passage northward between Gregory's and
+Stuart's tracks; but he found this passage impracticable, from want
+of water. He does not state anything that would enable us to form
+an opinion of what his intentions might be after leaving Eyre's
+Creek, beyond his saying that he meant to push northwards towards
+the Gulf. Neither does it appear that he left any instructions or
+directions upon the matter with Mr. Brahe. He merely informed the
+latter that he meant to run no risks, and that he would be back
+within a brief stated period, and that Mr. Brahe was not to wait
+for him at the depot beyond three months. Mr. Brahe's statement, in
+fact, throws very little light upon the probabilities of Mr.
+Burke's future course, after leaving the depot at Cooper's Creek.
+He accompanied him one day's journey, some twenty miles or so, on
+his way towards the north. But he seems to know very little of what
+Mr. Burke's ultimate intentions were. Perhaps, indeed, Mr. Burke
+himself had no very definite scheme sketched out in his own mind,
+as to any settled purpose for the future, beyond his trying to make
+the best of his way in the direction of the Gulf of Carpentaria. He
+probably never entertained the idea of its being necessary to plan
+out various different alternatives to adopt, in case of the failure
+of any one particular course of proceeding. The facility and
+despatch with which he had got over the ground to Cooper's Creek
+may have produced too confident a state of mind as to the future.
+And his having learned that Stuart had, with only two or three
+companions, advanced within a couple of days' journey of the
+northern coast, would tend greatly to increase that too confident
+tone of mind. Both circumstances were likely to produce a feeling,
+especially in a sanguine temperament like Burke's, that there was
+no need of his arranging beforehand, and leaving behind him, with
+Mr. Brahe, plans of intended procedure on his part, the knowledge
+of which would subsequently give a clue to his fate, in case of his
+continued absence. He seems not to have formed any anticipation of
+a vessel being sent round to meet him on the north coast, according
+to Mr. Brahe's account.
+
+What then did he propose to do, and what is likely to have become
+of him? The fear forces itself upon us, that, acting under the
+influence of excessive confidence, arising from the causes already
+referred to, Mr. Burke and his little band of three companions went
+forth towards the north in a state of mind unprepared to meet
+insurmountable obstacles; that difficulties, arising chiefly from
+want of water, sprung up in his path, and assumed greater magnitude
+than the previous experience of the expedition could have led them
+to anticipate; and that if the little party has not succumbed to
+these difficulties before now, they are to be sought for either on
+the northern coast, by a vessel to be sent there for that purpose,
+or in the country towards the Gulf of Carpentaria, by an overland
+party despatched in that direction. Indeed, both attempts should be
+made simultaneously, and with the least possible delay. The present
+period of the year is most propitious for the inland journey, both
+on account of the abundance of water and the moderate temperature
+incident to the winter season. There should not be a moment lost,
+then, in forwarding this portion of the search; and the coasting
+portion of it should be commenced as soon after as possible.
+
+The sufferings to which the unhappy men are exposed will be
+understood from Mr. Wright's report of what befell the party under
+his charge. They were prostrated by scurvy, as well as being
+additionally enfeebled by the irregular supply of water. And at
+length four of their number, worn out by their sufferings, perished
+by a wretched, lingering death in the wilderness. There is
+something deeply melancholy in such a fact. Poor Becker! He had
+scarcely the physique for encountering the toils of such an
+expedition. However, regrets over the past are vain. What is of
+importance now is to save the remainder of the party, if possible.
+And perhaps the best way of opening up the search inland would be
+for the committee to avail themselves of Mr. Howitt's offer to
+proceed at once, with an enlarged party, including Mr. Brahe, to
+Cooper's Creek, and thence to Eyre's Creek, and northwards towards
+the coast, should they not previously have encountered Mr. Burke
+and his companions on their return.
+
+It is somewhat disheartening to find that when Mr. Wright returned
+for the last time to the Cooper's Creek depot, namely, so recently
+as the first week in May--that is, five months after Burke set out
+on his final excursion--he did not think it necessary to make any
+examination of the country, as far at least as Eyre's Creek. It
+might naturally be supposed that on finding, by examining the
+concealed stores, that Mr. Burke had not revisited the depot, Mr.
+Wright would endeavour to make some search for him, to the extent
+of a few days' journey at all events. Before turning their back
+finally upon the solitude where their companions were wandering,
+one last search might have well been made. But perhaps the disabled
+condition of the men, horses, and camels may be taken to account
+for this seeming neglect. It may not be too late even now, however,
+to make amends for this strange oversight, by hastening on Mr.
+Howitt's party. The whole expedition appears to have been one
+prolonged blunder throughout; and it is to be hoped that the
+rescuing party may not be mismanaged and retarded in the same way
+as the unfortunate original expedition was. The savans have made a
+sad mess of the whole affair; let them, if possible, retrieve
+themselves in this its last sad phase.
+
+. . .
+
+I returned immediately to Melbourne, and found the committee
+in earnest at last, the Government aiding them in every possible
+way. Mr. Heales offered all the assistance he could give. The
+Victoria, which I thought had been made ready, was now put under
+immediate repair. Proceedings were reported in the Herald as
+follows:--
+
+The adjourned meeting of the Exploration Committee was
+held yesterday afternoon, in the Hall of the Royal Society, Victoria
+Street. Dr. Mueller occupied the chair, in the unavoidable absence
+of Sir William Stawell.
+
+The minutes of the previous meeting were read and confirmed.
+
+The Chairman said the honorary treasurer would lay before the
+committee the result of the interview the deputation had the honour
+to hold with the Chief Secretary that day. Unfortunately they had
+not had the advantage of Dr. Macadam's assistance, but he was glad
+that gentleman was now present, and that they had one member of the
+Government.
+
+The Honourable Dr. Wilkie, M.L.C., said that Dr. Mueller, himself,
+and Dr. Wills, father of Mr. Wills, a member of the expedition,
+waited on the Chief Secretary and communicated to him the
+resolution passed by the Exploration Committee, strongly
+recommending the Government to give the Victoria steamer for the
+purpose of proceeding to the Gulf of Carpentaria in aid of Mr.
+Burke's party. He might state that the deputation entered fully
+into the whole question, and that the Chief Secretary very
+cordially promised that the Victoria should be given, and that at
+the same time he (the Chief Secretary) said it was the desire of
+the Government to promote the wishes of the Exploration Committee,
+as far as possible, in rendering assistance to Mr. Burke. Further
+discussion took place with reference to other matters, which would
+immediately come under the consideration of the committee;--as to
+the sending a land party from Rockhampton; and the Government had
+promised every possible assistance that they could render.
+
+. . .
+
+Mr. Howitt, who returned the next day, was soon despatched
+again with increased means, to follow up his work in aid. A
+communication was immediately opened with the Queensland Government
+on the north-east to get up an expedition under some competent
+person, but at the charge of Victoria; and Mr. Walker, who had
+already acquired note as a leader of a party of native police, was
+proposed for the command. Captain Norman with the Victoria steamer
+was to start as soon as possible, coasting round to the Gulf,
+taking with him a small tender; whilst Walker, or whoever might be
+appointed in Queensland, should proceed north, overland. Nothing
+further could be done in Melbourne by the committee or Government;
+but I have now to narrate a noble act on the part of a private
+individual.
+
+James Orkney, Esquire, M.L.A. for West Melbourne, had a small
+steamer of sixteen tons, built by himself from a model of the Great
+Eastern, which was quite ready for sea; and having also a captain
+willing to embark in her, he undertook to send her round to the
+Gulf of Carpentaria at his own charge. The adventurous gentleman
+who offered his services was no less a personage than Wyse, the
+skipper of Lord Dufferin's yacht on his celebrated voyage to the
+North Seas, which his lordship has commemorated in his delightful
+little book entitled, Letters from High Latitudes. The Sir Charles
+Hotham, for so the little craft was called, was intended to precede
+Captain Norman, as the Victoria would take at least a fortnight in
+equipping. She was expected, from her light draught of water, to
+render much aid in exploring the rivers and steaming against
+currents. She left on the 6th of July, towed out of Hudson's Bay by
+the Sydney steamer. The weather became stormy, and the steamer was
+compelled to cut her adrift during the night. Left to herself and
+her gallant captain, with a crew of two men only, she made her way
+to Sydney. During this time the coast was visited by severe gales,
+and much anxiety was felt for the Sir Charles Hotham. The agents of
+the Sydney steamer regretted that they had not heard of the
+proposed arrangement a few hours earlier, as they would readily
+have taken her on deck. But they did all that was in their power.
+
+Mr. Orkney soon received the pleasing intelligence that his little
+craft was safe in Sydney Harbour, but requiring some repairs. These
+were completed with as much speed as possible, Mr. Orkney bearing
+every expense, including that of the telegrams, which was
+considerable. Again the miniature steamer proceeded from Sydney,
+northward; but after some progress, Wyse, steering her into shallow
+water, near shore, to anchor for the night, ran her on the peak of
+the anchor, which made a hole in her bottom, and quite
+incapacitated her from further service. Thus Mr. Orkney lost the
+hope he entertained and the satisfaction he would have enjoyed, of
+being serviceable to the lost explorers; but the credit due to him
+is far from being diminished by his want of success, and the
+patriotic effort deserves to be recorded to his eternal honour.
+Through this incident I made his acquaintance, and ever since we
+have been, and I hope shall continue to be, sincere friends.
+
+My anxiety for my son's safety interfered with my attention to
+ordinary professional avocations. I accordingly left Ballaarat for
+a time, and continued in Melbourne, casting about to see how I
+could render myself useful in the great object of my thoughts. At
+first I inclined to go round to the Gulf with Captain Norman, and
+obtained permission to do so, when an announcement reached
+Melbourne by telegram to the effect that the South Australian
+Government had decided on sending an Expedition from that quarter,
+and asking for the loan of some camels, with the use of the two
+that had strayed in that direction, and had been brought down to
+Adelaide from Dr. Brown's station. These turned out to be two of
+the three that my son had lost when out on an excursion from
+Cooper's Creek, the circumstances of which have been already
+mentioned. Mr. McKinlay was at that time in Melbourne. He
+immediately started by the Havelock steamer to offer his services
+as leader of the party. I sent a letter to Sir Richard McDonnel,
+the Governor, by him, proposing to accompany them as surgeon, and
+to assist as guide. I received a reply by telegram asking if I
+would put myself under Mr. McKinlay, and also requesting from the
+Government some additional camels. I obtained permission from Mr.
+Heales to have those that might be useful, and in three days
+started in the Oscar (since lost) with the camels.
+
+On arriving in Adelaide, I found that the South Australian
+Expedition was instructed to proceed, in the first instance, to
+Cooper's Creek, whither Mr. Howitt had already gone. This I thought
+a mistaken direction, as Howitt would be there before us, and the
+north and east search being amply provided for, it appeared
+profitless. The Government also proposed a surveying tour on their
+own account, in conjunction with the search for the missing
+explorers. These plans not exactly falling in with my view of the
+business, I gave up my intention of forming one of the party. Mr.
+McKinlay was a fine fellow, well adapted to the work; his
+companions strong and lively, and of a proper age, neither too old
+nor too young. Having seen him off, I determined to remain for a
+time in Adelaide, a delightful place, where I found some of the
+kindest and most agreeable acquaintances I have ever had the good
+fortune to meet with.
+
+The South Australian Register, of the 24th of August, 1861, gave
+the following summary of the measures in progress:--
+
+Our readers will perhaps be surprised to learn that a new
+exploring expedition has just been sent to the northern interior. To
+explore is clearly one of the missions of South Australia; but this
+time the object is less one of curiosity than humanity. With Mr.
+Stuart and his party still engaged in the work of opening a route
+to the north-west coast, no one would have thought it desirable,
+under ordinary circumstances, to undertake fresh explorations. But
+the whole colony has been moved by the dreadful doubt which hangs
+over the fate of Mr. Burke, the Victorian explorer, who, with three
+men, left Cooper's Creek at the beginning of the year; having only
+a few months' provisions with him. They have not been heard of
+since, and there is not much hope entertained of their safety. But
+all that can be done to assist them or to ascertain their fate is
+being done. The three adjacent provinces have sent in search of the
+lost explorers, and this colony has also despatched its expedition
+for the same good purpose. Mr. McKinlay, an experienced bushman,
+has left Adelaide upon this chivalric task, taking with him six
+men, twenty-four horses, and four camels. His first duty is to seek
+for Burke, and in the next place to obtain a knowledge of
+unexplored country in the north.
+
+. . .
+
+After general instructions, Mr. McKinlay's duties were
+more specifically defined:--
+
+You will in all matters keep the following objects in full view:--
+
+Firstly. The relief of the expedition under the command of Mr.
+Burke, or the acquiring a knowledge of its fate. This is the great
+object of the expedition under your command.
+
+When you may have accomplished the foregoing, or may have deemed it
+necessary to abandon the search for Mr. Burke, then,
+
+Secondly. The acquiring a knowledge of the country between Eyre's
+Creek and Central Mount Stuart.
+
+Thirdly. The acquiring a knowledge of the western shores of Lake
+Eyre. A separate letter of instructions is given to you and the
+particular matters to which you will direct your attention in this
+locality.
+
+. . .
+
+I had been in Adelaide nearly a month when I was startled by
+the following  note, from Major Egerton Warburton:--
+
+September 19th.
+
+MY DEAR SIR,
+
+Would you kindly call in at my office? I have important news
+which must interest you.
+
+Yours very truly,
+
+J. EGERTON WARBURTON.
+
+. . .
+
+I hastened to him, and asked, almost breathlessly, "What
+news--good or bad?" He replied, "Not so bad;" and then gave me the
+information which was made known in the House of Assembly that
+night, and embodied in the Adelaide Advertiser, the next day, to
+the following effect:--
+
+On Thursday morning, considerable interest was excited in
+Adelaide by  a rumour to the effect that intelligence from the
+interior had been received of Burke's party. We lost no time in
+instituting inquiry, and found that the report was certainly not
+unfounded. It was stated that a police trooper in the north had
+sent down information, derived through a black, that at a long
+distance beyond the settled districts some white men were living,
+and that the black had obtained a portion of their hair. The white
+men were described as being entirely naked, and as living upon a
+raft on a lake, supporting themselves by catching fish: that they
+had no firearms nor horses, but some great animals, which, from the
+description given by the native, were evidently camels. There
+could, therefore, be but little doubt as to this being Burke's
+party, or a portion of it; and as soon as it was ascertained that
+the rumour had some tangible kind of foundation, public curiosity
+for fuller and more authentic details speedily rose very high. On
+the assembling of Parliament, the Commissioner of Crown Lands,
+desirous of allaying the anxiety of the public, read from his place
+the letter brought by the native, of which the following is a copy:
+--
+
+Wirrilpa, September 12, 1861,
+
+SIR,
+
+I have the honour to forward the following particulars gathered
+from the blacks, seeming to refer to Mr. Burke and party. A black
+fellow called Sambo, who has lately come in from Lake Hope, brought
+with him the hair of two white men, which he showed to the cook and
+stockman at Tooncatchin. He says it was given to him by other
+blacks, who told him that there were white men living much farther
+out than where he had been. Frank James, one of Mr. Butler's
+stockmen, saw Sambo again on the 6th instant, and tried to get the
+hair from him. He had unfortunately given it away to other blacks.
+James promised him tobacco for it, and he has promised to get it
+again. Sambo says that the white men are naked, have no firearms or
+horses, but animals which from his description are evidently
+camels; that they sleep on a raft, which they build on the water.
+They live on fish which they catch with nets made with grass. Sambo
+says that the other blacks had told him that the white men arrived
+there this winter. According to Sambo, the people are twenty sleeps
+from Tooncatchin, by way of Lake Hope Creek. I do not think that
+these sleeps on the average exceed ten miles, so it is probable
+that they are on or near Cooper's Creek. Sambo is quite willing to
+go out all the way with a party of white men. He also says that the
+blacks on Lake Hope Creek are afraid of these white men. I received
+the above information from Mr. H. Butler, Frank James, and Cleland,
+on my arrival at Blanche on the 8th instant. Knowing that Mr.
+McKinlay and party were on their way, I accordingly left Blanche on
+the 9th, and I met Mr. McKinlay and party to-day on Bandnoota
+Plain, 145 miles south of Blanche, when I put that gentleman in
+possession of the above particulars.
+
+I have etc.
+
+JAMES HOWE, Police Trooper.
+
+To George Hamilton, Esquire, J.P., Inspector of Police.
+
+The Surveyor-General (Mr. Goyder) says that from the general tenor
+of the letter he inclines to the opinion that the white men are on
+some of the newly-discovered waters between Cooper's Creek and
+Eyre's Creek; and if so, this is precisely in the direction that
+Mr. McKinlay would, according to his instructions, have taken. But
+the most gratifying portion of the whole statement is that which
+assures us of Mr. McKinlay being placed in possession of the whole
+of the circumstances of the case; and considering the date when the
+information was given him, there is little doubt but that Mr.
+McKinlay, as the reader's eye rests on these words, is ON THE SPOT
+INDICATED by the black; and should this prove to be correct, and
+the party be saved, South Australia will have, in the cause of
+humanity, reason to rejoice that the Parliament took such prompt
+and vigorous measures to send out the relief expedition. The
+Commissioner of Crown Lands telegraphed to Melbourne, without
+delay, the substance of the trooper's letter; but it is not likely
+that any practical use could be made of it there, though it would
+revive the hopes of many of the friends of Burke and his party. If
+the white men spoken of in the letter are where Mr. Goyder imagines
+them to be, it is not very likely that Mr. Howitt's relief party
+would find them; so that it may, after all, be the destiny of South
+Australia not only to find men to cross the Australian continent,
+but to relieve and restore other explorers who have failed in that
+hazardous attempt.
+
+Mr. Burke's party consists of himself as leader, Mr. Wills,
+astronomer and surveyor, and who is second in command,--two men,
+six camels, and one horse. Dr. Wills, who is now in Adelaide,
+having come round from Melbourne with the additional camels, says
+that the two camels which a short time since made their way into
+this colony overland, and were brought to town from Truro, were two
+out of the three that belonged to his son, and that they were
+allowed to stray, by a man left in charge of them whilst Mr. Wills
+was engaged in some astronomical pursuits. The man left the camels
+to make some tea, and, on his return, the animals had disappeared.
+Two of them, as already stated, have been recovered, but no tidings
+have been received of the third, unless it be the one recently said
+to have arrived at Fort Bourke. We hope we shall soon have further
+information, not only respecting Burke and his party, but also of
+Stuart, the time of whose anticipated return now draws on rapidly.
+
+***We had scarcely written the above lines when we received a
+private telegram, informing us that Mr. Stuart was on his way to
+Adelaide.
+
+This intelligence raised my sinking hopes to a high pitch. I felt
+convinced that this was the missing party. The black fellow had
+described the animals, which the natives called "gobble gobble,"
+from the noise they made in their throats. Mr. McKinlay put little
+faith in the story; and I was vexed to hear by the next report from
+him that he was not hastening to the rescue. But it would then have
+been too late. The white men alluded to were, unquestionably,
+Burke, my son, and King, with exaggeration as to their being
+without clothes, and living on a raft.
+
+Shortly after this I returned to Melbourne, and in another week the
+sad catastrophe became public beyond all further doubt. The
+intelligence had reached Melbourne on a Saturday night. I was
+staying at that time at the house of my kind friend Mr. Orkney. He
+had gone to the opera with Mrs. Orkney and another lady, and came
+home about half-past ten. I was surprised at their early return,
+and thought something unpleasant must have happened. A servant came
+to say that he wished to speak with me privately, and then I
+received the terrible communication which had been announced at the
+theatre during an interval between the acts. As soon as I had
+sufficiently recovered the shock, we proceeded in a car to the
+residence of Dr. Wilkie, the treasurer of the Committee. He had
+heard a report, but was rather incredulous, as nothing official had
+reached the Committee. At this moment, Dr. Macadam, the Honorary
+Secretary, came in. He was perfectly bewildered, believed nothing,
+and had received no telegram. "But," said I, "when were you at your
+own house last?" "At seven o'clock," was the reply. "Good God!" I
+exclaimed, "jump into the car." We proceeded to his house, and
+there indeed was the telegram, which had been waiting for him some
+hours.
+
+The next morning, Sunday, November the 3rd, Brahe arrived at an
+early hour at the Spencer-street Station, having been sent in by
+Mr. Howitt with the journals and letters dug up in the cache at
+Cooper's Creek. I was anxiously waiting his arrival. Dr. Macadam
+was also there, and appeared confused, as if he had been up all
+night. He insisted on dragging me on to the Governor's house, four
+miles from Melbourne, Heaven only knows with what object. With some
+difficulty I obtained from him possession of the bundle of papers,
+and deposited them for safety in the hands of Dr. Wilkie. I have
+nothing more to say of Dr. Macadam, except that I sincerely trust
+it may never be my fortune to come in contact with him again, in
+any official business whatever. He is a man of unbounded confidence
+in his own powers, ready to undertake many things at the same time;
+and would not, I suspect, shrink from including the honorary
+governorship of the colony, if the wisdom of superior authority
+were to place it at his disposal.
+
+CHAPTER 12.
+
+The attempt to reach South Australia and Adelaide by Mount Hopeless.
+Mistake of selecting that Route.
+Mr. Wills's Journals from the 23rd of April to the 29th of June, 1861.
+Adventures with the Natives.
+Discovery of Nardoo as a Substitute for Food.
+Mr. Burke and King go in search of Natives as a last resource.
+Mr. Wills left alone in the Desert.
+The Last Entry in his Journal.
+
+ON the morning of Thursday, the 23rd of April, 1861, Mr. Burke, my
+son, and King, being refreshed and strengthened by the provisions
+they found at Cooper's Creek, again resumed their journey
+homewards. It was an unfortunate resolve of Burke's, to select the
+route to the Adelaide district by Mount Hopeless, instead of
+returning by the Darling. King says, "Mr. Wills and I were of
+opinion that to follow Brahe was the best mode of proceeding; but
+Mr. Burke had heard it stated positively at the meeting of the
+Royal Society, that there were South Australian settlers within one
+hundred miles of Cooper's Creek in the direction he proposed to
+take;" and by this very questionable assertion, without evidence,
+his mind was biassed. There was, in fact, nothing to recommend the
+route by Mount Hopeless, while everything was in favour of that by
+the Darling. Blanche Water, the nearest police-station on the
+Adelaide line, was distant between four and five hundred miles. The
+one road they knew nothing of, the other was familiar to them. The
+camels, too, would have plucked up spirit on returning after the
+others on the old track. It is true that Brahe's false statement of
+the condition of his party held out no encouragement that they
+might be able to overtake him; but there was a chance that a new
+party might even then be coming up, or that the laggard Wright
+would be on the advance at last, as proved to be the fact. A
+Melbourne paper, commenting on these points, had the following
+remarks, which were as just as they were doubly painful, being
+delivered after the event:--
+
+Wills and King it appears were desirous of following their track out
+from Menindie, which would unquestionably have been the wiser
+course; but Mr. Burke preferred striking for the South Australian
+stations, some of which, he had been informed by the Royal
+Committee of Exploration, were only one hundred and fifty miles
+from Cooper's Creek. It was a most unfortunate and fatal matter for
+Mr. Burke that these Royal people had anything whatever to do with
+his movements.
+
+He made two attempts to strike in the direction in which they had
+assured him he would easily reach a settled district, and twice was
+he driven back for want of water. It was a fatal mistake on his
+part to follow the suggestion of these ready advisers. The
+practical impressions of Wills or King were worth a world of
+theoretical conjectures and philosophic presumption. But it seems
+to have been decreed that Burke should have favoured the former
+instead of the latter; the consequences of which were that himself
+and poor Wills were to perish miserably.
+
+. . .
+
+Much as I approve of and admire my son's steady obedience to
+his leader, I cannot but regret and wonder that in this particular
+instance he was not more resolute in remonstrance. It bears out
+what I said to Mr. Burke on taking leave of him: "If you ask his
+advice, take it; but he will never offer it; and should he see you
+going to destruction, he will follow you without a murmur."
+
+The party, before they left Cooper's Creek, buried my son's
+journals in the cache, with the subjoined note from Mr. Burke,
+which were dug out and brought up by Brahe.
+
+Depot 2, Cooper's Creek Camp 65.
+
+The return party from Carpentaria, consisting of myself, Wills, and
+King (Gray dead), arrived here last night and found that the depot
+party had only started on the same day. We proceed on, to-morrow,
+slowly down the creek towards Adelaide by Mount Hopeless, and shall
+endeavour to follow Gregory's track; but we are very weak. The two
+camels are done up, and we shall not be able to travel faster than
+four or five miles a day. Gray died on the road, from exhaustion
+and fatigue. We have all suffered much from hunger. The provisions
+left here will, I think, restore our strength. We have discovered a
+practicable route to Carpentaria, the chief position of which lies
+in the 140 degrees of east longitude. There is some good country
+between this and the Stony Desert. From thence to the tropics the
+land is dry and stony. Between the Carpentaria a considerable
+portion is rangy, but well watered and richly grassed. We reached
+the shores of Carpentaria on the 11th of February, 1861. Greatly
+disappointed at finding the party here gone.
+
+(Signed) ROBERT O'HARA BURKE, Leader.
+
+April 22, 1861.
+
+P.S. The camels cannot travel, and we cannot walk, or we should
+follow the other party. We shall move very slowly down the creek.
+
+. . .
+
+My son's journal is now written in a more complete and
+consecutive form. He had no instruments for observation or mapping,
+so that his time and mind were concentrated on the one employment.
+
+APRIL, 1861.--JOURNAL OF TRIP FROM COOPER'S CREEK TOWARDS ADELAIDE.
+
+The advance party of the V.E.E., consisting of Burke, Wills, and
+King (Gray being dead), having returned from Carpentaria, on the
+21st April, 1861, in an exhausted and weak state, and finding that
+the depot party left at Cooper's Creek had started for the Darling
+with their horses and camels fresh and in good condition, deemed it
+useless to attempt to overtake them, having only two camels, both
+done up, and being so weak themselves as to be unable to walk more
+than four or five miles a day. Finding also that the provisions
+left at the depot for them would scarcely take them to Menindie,
+they started down Cooper's Creek for Adelaide, via Mount Hopeless,
+on the morning of 23rd April, 1861, intending to follow as nearly
+as possible, the route taken by Gregory. By so doing they hoped to
+be able to recruit themselves and the camels whilst sauntering
+slowly down the creek, and to have sufficient provisions left to
+take them comfortably, or at least without risk, to some station in
+South Australia.
+
+Their equipment consists of the following articles:--Flour, 50
+pounds; sugar, 60 pounds; rice, 20 pounds; oatmeal, 60 pounds;
+jerked meat, 25 pounds; ginger, 2 pounds; salt, 1 pound.--[Then
+follow some native words with their meanings.]
+
+From Depot.
+
+Tuesday, 23rd April, 1861.--Having collected together all the odds
+and ends that seemed likely to be of use to us, in addition to
+provisions left in the plant, we started at 9.15 A.M., keeping down
+the southern bank of the creek; we only went about five miles, and
+camped at 11.30 on a billibong, where the feed was pretty good. We
+find the change of diet already making a great improvement in our
+spirits and strength. The weather is delightful, days agreeably
+warm, but the nights very chilly. The latter is more noticeable
+from our deficiency in clothing, the depot party having taken all
+the reserve things back with them to the Darling.--To Camp 1.
+
+From Camp 1.
+
+Wednesday, 24th April, 1861.--As we were about to start this
+morning, some blacks came by, from whom we were fortunate enough to
+get about twelve pounds of fish for a few pieces of straps and some
+matches, etc. This is a great treat for us, as well as a valuable
+addition to our rations. We started at 8.15 P.M., on our way down
+the creek, the blacks going in the opposite direction, little
+thinking that in a few miles they might be able to get lots of
+pieces for nothing, better than those they had obtained from us.
+--To Camp 2.
+
+From Camp 2.
+
+Thursday, 25th April, 1861.--Awoke at five o'clock after a most
+refreshing night's rest--the sky was beautifully clear, and the air
+rather chilly--the terrestrial radiation seems to have been
+considerable, and a slight dew had fallen. We had scarcely finished
+breakfast, when our friends the blacks, from whom we obtained the
+fish, made their appearance with a few more, and seemed inclined to
+go with us and keep up the supply. We gave them some sugar, with
+which they were greatly pleased--they are by far the most
+well-behaved blacks we have seen on Cooper's Creek. We did not get
+away from the camp until 9.30 A.M., continuing our course down the
+most southern branch of the creek which keeps a general south-west
+course. We passed across the stony point which abuts on one of the
+largest waterholes in the creek, and camped at 12.30 about a mile
+below the most dangerous part of the rocky path. At this latter
+place we had an accident that might have resulted badly for us: one
+of the camels fell while crossing the worst part, but we
+fortunately got him out with only a few cuts and bruises. To Camp
+3.--The waterhole at this camp is a very fine one, being several
+miles long, and on an average about--chains broad. The water-fowl
+are numerous, but rather shy, not nearly so much so, however, as
+those on the creeks between here and Carpentaria; and I am
+convinced that the shyness of the latter, which was also remarked
+by Sturt on his trip to Eyre's Creek, arises entirely from the
+scarcity of animals, both human and otherwise, and not from any
+peculiar mode of catching them that the blacks may have.
+
+From Camp 3.
+
+Friday, 26th April, 1861.--Last night was beautifully calm and
+comparatively warm, although the sky was very clear. We loaded the
+camels by moonlight this morning, and started at a quarter to six:
+striking off to the south of the creek, we soon got on a native
+path which leaves the creek just below the stony ground and takes a
+course nearly west across a piece of open country, bounded on the
+south by sand ridges and on the north by the scrub by ground which
+flanks the bank of the creek at this part of its course. Leaving
+the path on our right at a distance of three miles, we turned up a
+small creek, which passes down between some sandhills, and finding
+a nice patch of feed for the camels at a waterhole, we halted at 7.
+15 for breakfast. We started again at 9.50 A.M., continuing our
+westerly course along the path: we crossed to the south of the
+watercourse above the water, and proceeded over the most splendid
+salt-bush country that one could wish to see, bounded on the left
+by sandhills, whilst to the right the peculiar-looking flat-topped
+sandstone ranges form an extensive amphitheatre, through the far
+side of the arena of which may be traced the dark line of creek
+timber. At twelve o'clock we camped in the bed of the creek at
+camp--, our last camp on the road down from the Gulf, having taken
+four days to do what we then did in one. This comparative rest and
+the change in diet have also worked wonders, however; the leg-tied
+feeling is now entirely gone, and I believe that in less than a
+week we shall be fit to undergo any fatigue whatever. The camels
+are improving, and seem capable of doing all that we are likely to
+require of them.--To Camp 4.
+
+From Camp 4.
+
+Saturday, 27th April, 1861.--First part of night clear, with a
+light breeze from south. Temperature at midnight 10 degrees
+(Reaumur). Towards morning there were a few cirrocumulus clouds
+passing over north-east to south-west, but these disappeared before
+daylight. At five A.M. the temperature was 7.5 degrees (Reaumur).
+We started at six o'clock, and following the native path, which at
+about a mile from our camp takes a southerly direction, we soon
+came to the high sandy alluvial deposit which separates the creek
+at this point from the stony rises. Here we struck off from the
+path, keeping well to the south of the creek, in order that we
+might mess in a branch of it that took a southerly direction. At 9.
+20 we came in on the creek again where it runs due south, and
+halted for breakfast at a fine waterhole with fine fresh feed for
+the camels. Here we remained until noon, when we moved on again,
+and camped at one o'clock on a general course, having been
+throughout the morning south-west eight miles. The weather is most
+agreeable and pleasant; nothing could be more favourable for us up
+to the present time. The temperature in the shade at 10.30 A.M. was
+17.5 degrees (Reaumur), with a light breeze from south and a few
+small cirrocumulus clouds towards the north. I greatly feel the
+want of more instruments, the only things I have left being my
+watch, prism compass, pocket compass, and one thermometer
+(Reaumur).--To Camp 5.
+
+From Camp 5.
+
+Sunday, 28th April, 1861.--Morning fine and calm, but rather
+chilly. Started at 4.45 A.M., following down the bed of a creek in
+a westerly direction by moonlight. Our stage was, however, very
+short for about a mile--one of the camels (Landa) got bogged by the
+side of a waterhole, and although we tried every means in our
+power, we found it impossible to get him out. All the ground
+beneath the surface was a bottomless quicksand, through which the
+beast sank too rapidly for us to get bushes of timber fairly
+beneath him; and being of a very sluggish stupid nature he could
+never be got to make sufficiently strenuous efforts towards
+extricating himself. In the evening, as a last chance, we let the
+water in from the creek, so as to buoy him up and at the same time
+soften the ground about his legs; but it was of no avail. The brute
+lay quietly in it, as if he quite enjoyed his position.--To Camp 6.
+
+Camp 6.
+
+Monday, 29th April, 1861.--Finding Landa still in the hole, we made
+a few attempts at extricating him, and then shot him, and after
+breakfast commenced cutting off what flesh we could get at for
+jerking.
+
+Tuesday, 30th April, 1861.--Remained here to-day for the purpose of
+drying the meat, for which process the weather is not very
+favourable. [Meteorological note follows.]
+
+From Camp 6.
+
+Wednesday, 1st May, 1861.--Started at 8.40, having loaded our only
+camel, Rajah, with the most necessary and useful articles, and
+packed up a small swag each, of bedding and clothing for our own
+shoulders. We kept on the right bank of the creek for about a mile,
+and then crossed over at a native camp to the left, where we got on
+a path running due west, the creek having turned to the north.
+Following the path we crossed an open plain, and then some sand
+ridges, whence we saw the creek straight ahead of us running nearly
+south again: the path took us to the southernmost point of the bend
+in a distance of about two and a-half miles from where we had
+crossed the creek, thereby saving us from three to four miles, as
+it cannot be less than six miles round by the creek.--To Camp 7.
+
+From Camp 7.
+
+Thursday, 2nd May, 1861.--Breakfasted by moonlight and started at
+6.30. Following down the left bank of the creek in a westerly
+direction, we came at a distance of six miles on a lot of natives
+who were camped on the bed of a creek. They seemed to have just
+breakfasted, and were most liberal in their presentations of fish
+and cake. We could only return the compliment by some fishhooks and
+sugar. About a mile further on we came to a separation of the
+creek, where what looked like the main branch, turned towards the
+south. This channel we followed, not however without some
+misgivings as to its character, which were soon increased by the
+small and unfavourable appearance that the creek assumed. On our
+continuing along it a little further it began to improve and
+widened out with fine waterholes of considerable depth. The banks
+were very steep, and a belt of scrub lined it on either side. This
+made it very inconvenient for travelling, especially as the bed of
+the creek was full of water for a considerable distance. At eleven
+A.M., we halted, until 1.30 P.M., and then moved on again taking a
+south-south-westerly course for about two miles, when at the end of
+a very long waterhole it breaks into billibongs, which continue
+splitting into sandy channels until they are all lost in the earthy
+soil of a box forest. Seeing little chance of water ahead, we
+turned back to the end of the long waterhole and camped for the
+night. On our way back, Rajah showed signs of being done up. He had
+been trembling greatly all the morning. On this account his load
+was further lightened to the amount of a few pounds by the doing
+away with the sugar, ginger, tea, cocoa, and two or three tin
+plates.--To Camp 8.
+
+From Camp 8.
+
+Friday, 3rd May, 1861.--Started at seven A.M., striking off in a
+northerly direction for the main creek. At a mile and a-half came
+to a branch which--[Left unfinished].--To Camp 9.
+
+Junction.--From Camp 9.
+
+Saturday, 4th May, 1861.--Night and morning very cold. Sky clear,
+almost calm, occasionally a light breath of air from south. Rajah
+appears to feel the cold very much. He was so stiff this morning as
+to be scarcely able to get up with his load. Started to return down
+the creek at 6.45, and halted for breakfast at 9 A.M., at the same
+spot as we breakfasted at yesterday. Proceeding from there down the
+creek we soon found a repetition of the features that were
+exhibited by the creek examined on Thursday. At a mile and a-half
+we came to the last waterhole, and below that the channel became
+more sandy and shallow, and continued to send off billibongs to the
+south and west, slightly changing its course each time until it
+disappeared altogether in a north-westerly direction. Leaving King
+with the camel, we went on a mile or two to see if we could find
+water; and being unsuccessful we were obliged to return to where we
+had breakfasted as being the best place for feed and water.--To
+Camp 10.
+
+Sunday, 5th May, 1861.--Started by myself, to reconnoitre the
+country in a southerly direction, leaving Mr. Burke and King with
+the camel at Camp 10. Travelled south-west by south for two hours,
+following the course of the most southerly billibongs; found the
+earthy soil becoming more loose and cracked up, and the box track
+gradually disappearing. Changed course to west for a high sand
+ridge, which I reached in one hour and a half, and continuing in
+the same direction to one still higher, obtained from it a good
+view of the surrounding country. To the north were the extensive
+box forests bounding the creek on either side. To the east earthy
+plains intersected by watercourses and lines of timber, and bounded
+in the distance by sand ridges. To the south the projection of the
+sand ridge partially intercepted the view; the rest was composed of
+earthy plains, apparently clothed with chrysanthemums. To the
+westward another but smaller plain was bounded also by high sand
+ridges running nearly parallel with the one on which I was
+standing. This dreary prospect offering no encouragement to
+proceed, I returned to Camp 10 by a more direct and better route
+than I had come, passing over some good salt-bush land which
+borders on the billibongs to the westward.--[Here follow some
+meteorological notes.]
+
+From Camp 10 back to 9.
+
+Monday, 6th May, 1861.--Moved up the creek again to Camp 9, at the
+junction, to breakfast, and remained the day there. The present
+state of things is not calculated to raise our spirits much; the
+rations are rapidly diminishing; our clothing, especially the
+boots, are all going to pieces, and we have not the materials for
+repairing them properly; the camel is completely done up and can
+scarcely get along, although he has the best of feed and is resting
+half his time. I suppose this will end in our having to live like
+the blacks for a few months.
+
+From Camp 9.
+
+Tuesday, 7th May, 1861.--Breakfasted at daylight; but when about to
+start, found that the camel would not rise even without any load on
+his back. After making every attempt to get him up, we were obliged
+to leave him to himself.
+
+Mr. Burke and I started down the creek to reconnoitre; at about
+eleven miles we came to some blacks fishing; they gave us some
+half-a-dozen fish each, for luncheon, and intimated that if we
+would go to their camp we should have some more and some bread. I
+tore in two a piece of macintosh stuff that I had, and Mr. Burke
+gave one piece and I the other. We then went on to their camp about
+three miles further. They had caught a considerable quantity of
+fish, but most of them were small. I noticed three different kinds;
+a small one that they call Cupi, from five to six inches long, and
+not broader than an eel; the common one, with large coarse scales,
+termed Peru; and a delicious fish, some of which run from a pound
+to two pounds weight; the natives call them Cawilchi. On our
+arrival at the camp they led us to a spot to camp on, and soon
+afterwards brought a lot of fish, and a kind of bread which they
+call nardoo. The lighting a fire with matches delights them, but
+they do not care about having them. In the evening various members
+of the tribe came down with lumps of nardoo and handfuls of fish,
+until we were positively unable to eat any more. They also gave us
+some stuff they call bedgery or pedgery; it has a highly
+intoxicating effect when chewed even in small quantities. It
+appears to be the dried stems and leaves of some shrub.
+
+Wednesday, 8th May, 1861.--Left the blacks' camp at 7.30, Mr. Burke
+returning to the junction, whilst I proceeded to trace down the
+creek. This I found a shorter task than I had expected, for it soon
+showed signs of running out, and at the same time kept considerably
+to the north of west. There were several fine waterholes within
+about four miles of the camp I had left, but not a drop all the way
+beyond that, a distance of seven miles. Finding that the creek
+turned greatly towards the north, I returned to the blacks'
+encampment, and as I was about to pass they invited me to stay;--I
+did so, and was even more hospitably entertained than before,
+being, on this occasion, offered a share of a gunyah, and supplied
+with plenty of fish and nardoo, as well as a couple of nice fat
+rats--the latter found most delicious; they were baked in their
+skins.
+
+Last night was clear and calm, but unusually warm. We slept by a
+fire just in front of the blacks' camp; they were very attentive in
+bringing us firewood and keeping the fire up during the night.
+
+Thursday, 9th May, 1861.--Parted from my friends, the blacks, at 7.
+30, and started for camp 9.
+
+From Camp 9.
+
+Friday, 10th May, 1861.--Mr. Burke and King employed in jerking the
+camel's flesh, whilst I went out to look for the nardoo seed for
+making bread: in this I was unsuccessful, not being able to find a
+single tree of it in the neighbourhood of the camp. I, however,
+tried boiling the large kind of bean which the blacks call padlu;
+they boil easily, and when shelled are very sweet, much resembling
+in taste the French chestnut; they are to be found in large
+quantities nearly everywhere.
+
+Saturday, 11th May, 1861.--To-day Mr. Burke and King started down
+the creek to the blacks' camp, determined to ascertain all
+particulars about the nardoo. I have now my turn at the meat
+jerking, and must devise some means for trapping the birds and
+rats, which is a pleasant prospect after our dashing trip to
+Carpentaria, having to hang about Cooper's Creek, living like the
+blacks.
+
+Sunday, 12th May, 1861.--Mr. Burke and King returned this morning,
+having been unsuccessful in their search for the blacks, who it
+seems have moved over to the other branch of the creek.
+
+Decided on moving out on the main creek tomorrow, and then trying
+to find the natives of the creek.
+
+Monday, 13th May, 1861.--Shifted some of the things, and brought
+them back again, Mr. Burke thinking it better for one to remain
+here with them for a few days, so as to eat the remains of the
+fresh meat, whilst the others went in search of the blacks and
+nardoo.
+
+Tuesday, 14th May, 1861.--Mr. Burke and King gone up the creek to
+look for blacks with four days' provisions. Self employed in
+preparing for a final start on their return.
+
+This evening Mr. Burke and King returned, having been some
+considerable distance up the creek and found no blacks. It is now
+settled that we plant the things, and all start together the day
+after to-morrow.
+
+The weather continues very fine; the nights calm, clear and cold,
+and the days clear, with a breeze generally from south, but to-day
+from east, for a change; this makes the first part of the day
+rather cold. When clouds appear they invariably move from west to
+east.
+
+Wednesday, 15th, 1861.--Planting the things and preparing to leave
+the creek for Mount Hopeless.
+
+Thursday, 16th, 1861.--Having completed our planting, etc., started
+up the creek for the second blacks' camp, a distance of about eight
+miles: finding our loads rather too heavy we made a small plant
+here of such articles as could best be spared.--[Here follow a few
+meteorological notes.]
+
+Nardoo, Friday, 17th May, 1861.--Started this morning on a blacks'
+path, leaving the creek on our left, our intention being to keep a
+south-easterly direction until we should cut some likely looking
+creek, and then to follow it down. On approaching the foot of the
+first sandhill, King caught sight in the flat of some nardoo seeds,
+and we soon found that the flat was covered with them. This
+discovery caused somewhat of a revolution in our feelings, for we
+considered that with the knowledge of this plant we were in a
+position to support ourselves, even if we were destined to remain
+on the creek and wait for assistance from town. Crossing some sand
+ridges, running north and south, we struck into a creek which runs
+out of Cooper's Creek, and followed it down; at about five miles we
+came to a large waterhole, beyond which the watercourse runs out on
+extensive flats and earthy plains.
+
+Calm night; sky cleared towards morning, and it became very cold. A
+slight easterly breeze sprung up at sunrise but soon died away
+again. The sky again became overcast and remained so throughout the
+day. There was occasionally a light breeze from south, but during
+the greater portion of the day it was quite calm. Fine halo around
+the sun in the afternoon.
+
+Camp 16.
+
+Saturday, 18th May, 1861.--[No entry except the following
+meteorological entry on an opposite page, which may probably refer
+to this date.] Calm night; sky sometimes clear and sometimes
+partially overcast with veil clouds.
+
+Sunday, 19th May, 1861.--[No entry beyond this citation of date.]
+
+Monday, 20th May, 1861.--[No entry beyond this citation of date.]
+
+Tuesday, 21st May.--Creek.--[No entry beyond this citation of date.]
+
+Wednesday, 22nd May, 1861.--Cooper's Creek.--[No entry beyond this
+citation of date.]
+
+Thursday, 23rd May, 1861.--[No entry beyond this citation of date.]
+
+Friday, 24th May, 1861.--Started with King to celebrate the Queen's
+birthday by fetching from Nardoo Creek what is now to us the staff
+of life; returned at a little after two P.M. with a fair supply,
+but find the collecting of the seed a slower and more troublesome
+process than could be desired. Whilst picking the seed, about
+eleven A.M., both of us heard distinctly the noise of an explosion,
+as if of a gun, at some considerable distance. We supposed it to
+have been a shot fired by Mr. Burke, but on returning to the camp
+found that he had not fired, nor had heard the noise. The sky was
+partially overcast with high cumulostratus clouds, and a light
+breeze blew from the east, but nothing to indicate a thunderstorm
+in any direction.
+
+Saturday, 25th May, 1861.--[No entry beyond this.]
+
+Sunday, 26th May.--[No entry beyond this.]
+
+Monday, 27th May, 1861.--Started up the creek this morning for the
+depot, in order to deposit journals and a record of the state of
+affairs here. On reaching the sandhills below where Landa was
+bogged, I passed some blacks on a flat collecting nardoo seed.
+Never saw such an abundance of the seed before. The ground in some
+parts was quite black with it. There were only two or three gins
+and children, and they directed me on, as if to their camp, in the
+direction I was before going; but I had not gone far over the first
+sandhill when I was overtaken by about twenty blacks, bent on
+taking me back to their camp, and promising any quantity of nardoo
+and fish. On my going with them, one carried the shovel, and
+another insisted on taking my swag in such a friendly manner that I
+could not refuse them. They were greatly amused with the various
+little things I had with me. In the evening they supplied me with
+abundance of nardoo and fish, and one of the old men, Poko
+Tinnamira, shared his gunyah with me. . .The night was very cold,
+but by the help of several fires--[The entry suddenly stops here;
+but in the margin of the opposite page is written the names of
+several natives, and certain native words with their meanings in
+English.]
+
+Tuesday, 28th May, 1861:--Left the blacks' camp, and proceeded up
+the creek; obtained some mussels near where Landa died, and halted
+for breakfast. Still feel very unwell from the effects of
+constipation of the bowels. After breakfast travelled on to our
+third camp coming down.
+
+Wednesday, 29th.--Started at seven A.M. and went on to the
+duck-holes, where we breakfasted coming down. Halted there at 9.30
+A.M. for a feed, and then moved on. At the stones saw a lot of
+crows quarrelling about something near the water; found it to be a
+large fish, of which they had eaten a considerable portion. As it
+was quite fresh and good, I decided the quarrel by taking it with
+me. . .It proved a most valuable addition to my otherwise scanty
+supper of nardoo porridge. This evening I camped very comfortably
+in a mia-mia, about eleven miles from the depot. The night was very
+cold, although not entirely cloudless. A brisk easterly breeze
+sprang up in the morning, and blew freshly all day. In the evening
+the sky clouded in, and there were one or two slight showers, but
+nothing to wet the ground.
+
+Thursday, 30th May, 1861.--Reached the depot this morning at eleven
+A.M.; no traces of any one except blacks having been here since we
+left. Deposited some journals and a notice of our present
+condition. Started back in the afternoon, and camped at the first
+waterhole. Last night, being cloudy, was unusually warm and
+pleasant. [Footnote: The notice left in the cache ran as follows:--
+
+Depot Camp, May 30th.
+
+We have been unable to leave the creek. Both camels are dead,
+and our provisions are exhausted. Mr. Burke and King are down the
+lower part of the creek. I am about to return to them, when we
+shall probably come up this way. We are trying to live the best way
+we can, like the blacks, but find it hard work. Our clothes are
+going to pieces fast. Send provisions and clothes as soon as
+possible.
+
+W.J. WILLS.
+
+The depot party having left, contrary to instructions, has put us
+in this fix. I have deposited some of my journals here for fear of
+accident.
+
+W.J.W.
+
+Friday, 31st May, 1861.--Decamped at 7.30 A.M., having first
+breakfasted; passed between the sandhills at nine A.M., and reached
+the blanket mia-mias at 10.40 A.M.; from there proceeded on to the
+rocks, where I arrived at 1.30 P.M., having delayed about
+half-an-hour on the road in gathering some portulac. It had been a
+fine morning, but the sky now became overcast, and threatened to
+set in for steady rain; and as I felt very weak and tired, I only
+moved on about a mile further, and camped in a sheltered gully
+under some bushes. Night clear and very cold; no wind; towards
+morning, sky became slightly overcast with cirrostratus clouds.
+
+Saturday, 1st June, 1861.--Started at 7.45 A.M.; passed the
+duck-holes at ten A.M. and my second camp up, at two P.M., having
+rested in the meantime about forty-five minutes. Thought to have
+reached the blacks' camp, or at least where Landa was bogged, but
+found myself altogether too weak and exhausted; in fact, had
+extreme difficulty in getting across the numerous little gullies,
+and was at last obliged to camp from sheer fatigue. Night
+ultimately both clear and cloudy, with occasional showers.
+
+Sunday, 2nd June, 1861.--Started at half-past six, thinking to
+breakfast at the blacks' camp below Landa's grave. Found myself
+very much fagged, and did not arrive at their camp until ten A.M.,
+and then found myself disappointed as to a good breakfast, the camp
+being deserted. Having rested awhile and eaten a few fish-bones, I
+moved down the creek, hoping by a late march to be able to reach
+our own camp; but I soon found, from my extreme weakness, that that
+would be out of the question. A certain amount of good luck,
+however, still stuck to me, for on going along by a large waterhole
+I was so fortunate as to find a large fish, about a pound and a
+half in weight, which was just being choked by another which it had
+tried to swallow, but which had stuck in its throat. I soon had a
+fire lit, and both of the fish cooked and eaten: the large one was
+in good condition. Moving on again after my late breakfast, I
+passed Camp 67 of the journey to Carpentaria, and camped for the
+night under some polygonum bushes.
+
+Monday, 3rd June, 1861.--Started at seven o'clock, and keeping on
+the south bank of the creek was rather encouraged at about three
+miles by the sound of numerous crows ahead; presently fancied I
+could see smoke, and was shortly afterwards set at my ease by
+hearing a cooey from Pitchery, who stood on the opposite bank, and
+directed me round the lower end of the waterhole, continually
+repeating his assurance of abundance of fish and bread. Having with
+some considerable difficulty managed to ascend the sandy path that
+led to the camp, I was conducted by the chief to a fire where a
+large pile of fish were just being cooked in the most approved
+style. These I imagined to be for the general consumption of the
+half-dozen natives gathered around, but it turned out that they had
+already had their breakfast. I was expected to dispose of this
+lot--a task which, to my own astonishment, I soon accomplished,
+keeping two or three blacks pretty steadily at work extracting the
+bones for me. The fish being disposed of, next came a supply of
+nardoo cake and water until I was so full as to be unable to eat
+any more; when Pitchery, allowing me a short time to recover
+myself, fetched a large bowl of the raw nardoo flour mixed to a
+thin paste, a most insinuating article, and one that they appear to
+esteem a great delicacy. I was then invited to stop the night
+there, but this I declined, and proceeded on my way home.
+
+Tuesday, 4th June, 1861.--Started for the blacks' camp intending to
+test the practicability of living with them, and to see what I
+could learn as to their ways and manners.
+
+Wednesday, 5th June, 1861.--Remained with the blacks. Light rain
+during the greater part of the night, and more or less throughout
+the day in showers. Wind blowing in squalls from south.
+
+Thursday, 6th June, 1861.--Returned to our own camp: found that Mr.
+Burke and King had been well supplied with fish by the blacks. Made
+preparation for shifting our camp nearer theirs on the morrow.
+
+. . .
+
+During my son's absence, which lasted for eleven days, in which
+he travelled altogether above seventy miles, King mentions in his
+narrative that Mr. Burke, whilst frying some fish set fire to the
+mia-mia (a shelter made by the blacks with bushes of trees, so
+thickly laid that it serves to exclude the sun and a great deal of
+rain); thus destroying every remnant of clothing. King told me that
+nothing was saved but a gun, although his narrative says a pistol
+also; but Mr. Burke's pistol was burnt.
+
+The incidents of the journal from the 27th of May to the 5th of
+June, show how well my son had established himself in the good
+graces of the natives. Had it been his fortune to have survived, we
+should probably have had an interesting account of these simple
+aborigines and their doings.
+
+. . .
+
+Friday, 7th June, 1861.--Started in the afternoon for the
+blacks' camp with such things as we could take; found ourselves all
+very weak in spite of the abundant supply of fish that we have
+lately had. I, myself, could scarcely get along, although carrying
+the lightest swag, only about thirty pounds. Found that the blacks
+had decamped, so determined on proceeding to-morrow up to the next
+camp, near the nardoo field.
+
+Saturday, 8th June, 1861.--With the greatest fatigue and difficulty
+we reached the nardoo camp. No blacks, greatly to our
+disappointment; took possession of their best mia-mia and rested
+for the remainder of the day.
+
+Sunday, 9th June, 1861.--King and I proceeded to collect nardoo,
+leaving Mr. Burke at home.
+
+Monday, 10th June, 1861.--Mr. Burke and King collecting nardoo;
+self at home too weak to go out; was fortunate enough to shoot a
+crow.--[Here follow some meteorological notes which appear to
+relate to another period.]
+
+Tuesday, 11th June, 1861.--King out for nardoo; Mr. Burke up the
+creek to look for the blacks.
+
+Wednesday, 12th June, 1861.--King out collecting nardoo; Mr. Burke
+and I at home pounding and cleaning. I still feel myself, if
+anything, weaker in the legs, although the nardoo appears to be
+more thoroughly digested.
+
+Thursday, 13th June, 1861.--Last night the sky was pretty clear,
+and the air rather cold, but nearly calm, a few cirrostratus hung
+about the north-east horizon during the first part of the night.
+Mr. Burke and King out for nardoo; self weaker than ever; scarcely
+able to go to the waterhole for water. Towards afternoon,
+cirrocumulus and cirrostratus began to appear moving northward.
+Scarcely any wind all day.
+
+Friday, 14th June, 1861.--Night alternately clear and cloudy;
+cirrocumulus and cumulostratus moving northwards; no wind;
+beautifully mild for the time of year; in the morning some heavy
+clouds on the horizon. King out for nardoo; brought in a good
+supply. Mr. Burke and I at home, pounding and cleaning seed. I feel
+weaker than ever, and both Mr. B. and King are beginning to feel
+very unsteady in the legs.
+
+Saturday, 15th June, 1861.--Night clear, calm, and cold; morning
+very fine, with a light breath of air from north-east. King out for
+nardoo; brought in a fine supply. Mr. Burke and I pounding and
+cleaning; he finds himself getting very weak, and I am not a bit
+stronger.
+
+I have determined on beginning to chew tobacco and eat less nardoo,
+in hopes that it may induce some change in the system. I have never
+yet recovered from the constipation, the effect of which continues
+to be exceedingly painful.
+
+Sunday, 16th June, 1861.--Wind shifted to north; clouds moving from
+west to east; thunder audible two or three times to the southward:
+sky becoming densely overcast, with an occasional shower about nine
+A.M.
+
+We finished up the remains of the camel Rajah yesterday, for
+dinner; King was fortunate enough to shoot a crow this morning.
+
+The rain kept all hands in, pounding and cleaning seed during the
+morning. The weather cleared up towards the middle of the day, and
+a brisk breeze sprang up in the south, lasting till near sunset,
+but rather irregular in its force. Distant thunder was audible to
+westward and southward frequently during the afternoon.
+
+Monday, 17th June, 1861.--Night very boisterous and stormy;
+northerly wind blowing in squalls, and heavy showers of rain, with
+thunder in the north and west; heavy clouds moving rapidly from
+north to south; gradually clearing up during the morning; the wind
+continuing squally during the day from west and north-west.
+
+King out in the afternoon for nardoo.
+
+Tuesday, 18th June, 1861.--Exceedingly cold night; sky clear,
+slight breeze, very chilly and changeable; very heavy dew. After
+sunrise, cirrostratus clouds began to pass over from west to east,
+gradually becoming more dense, and assuming the form of
+cumulostratus. The sky cleared, and it became warmer towards noon.
+
+Wednesday, 19th June, 1861.--Night calm; sky during first part
+overcast with cirrocumulus clouds, most of which cleared away
+towards morning, leaving the air much colder; but the sky remained
+more or less hazy all night, and it was not nearly as cold as last
+night.
+
+About eight o'clock a strong southerly wind sprung up, which
+enabled King to blow the dust out of our nardoo seed, but made me
+too weak to render him any assistance.
+
+Thursday, 20th June, 1861.--Night and morning very cold, sky clear.
+I am completely reduced by the effects of the cold and starvation.
+King gone out for nardoo; Mr. Burke at home pounding seed; he finds
+himself getting very weak in the legs. King holds out by far the
+best; the food seems to agree with him pretty well.
+
+Finding the sun come out pretty warm towards noon, I took a
+sponging all over; but it seemed to do little good beyond the
+cleaning effects, for my weakness is so great that I could not do
+it with proper expedition.
+
+I cannot understand this nardoo at all--it certainly will not agree
+with me in any form; we are now reduced to it alone, and we manage
+to consume from four to five pounds per day between us; it appears
+to be quite indigestible, and cannot possibly be sufficiently
+nutritious to sustain life by itself.
+
+Friday, 21st June, 1861.--Last night was cold and clear, winding up
+with a strong wind from north-east in the morning. I feel much
+weaker than ever and can scarcely crawl out of the mia-mia. Unless
+relief comes in some form or other, I cannot possibly last more
+than a fortnight.
+
+It is a great consolation, at least, in this position of ours, to
+know that we have done all we could, and that our deaths will
+rather be the result of the mismanagement of others than of any
+rash acts of our own. Had we come to grief elsewhere, we could only
+have blamed ourselves; but here we are returned to Cooper's Creek,
+where we had every reason to look for provisions and clothing; and
+yet we have to die of starvation, in spite of the explicit
+instructions given by Mr. Burke--"That the depot party should await
+our return;" and the strong recommendation to the Committee "that
+we should be followed up by a party from Menindie."
+
+About noon a change of wind took place, and it blew almost as hard
+from the west as it did previously from the north-east. A few
+cirrocumulus continued to pass over towards east.
+
+Saturday, 22nd June, 1861.--Night cloudy and warm; every appearance
+of rain; thunder once or twice during the night; clouds moving in
+an easterly direction; lower atmosphere perfectly calm. There were
+a few drops of rain during the night, and in the morning, about
+nine A.M., there was every prospect of more rain until towards
+noon, when the sky cleared up for a time.
+
+Mr. Burke and King out for nardoo; the former returned much
+fatigued. I am so weak to-day as to be unable to get on my feet.
+
+Sunday, 23rd June, 1861.--All hands at home. I am so weak as to be
+incapable of crawling out of the mia-mia. King holds out well, but
+Mr. Burke finds himself weaker every day.
+
+Monday, 24th June, 1861.--A fearful night. At about an hour before
+sunset, a southerly gale sprung up and continued throughout the
+greater portion of the night; the cold was intense, and it seemed
+as if one would be shrivelled up. Towards morning it fortunately
+lulled a little, but a strong cold breeze continued till near
+sunset, after which it became perfectly calm.
+
+King went out for nardoo in spite of the wind, and came in with a
+good load; but he himself terribly cut up. He says that he can no
+longer keep up the work, and as he and Mr. Burke are both getting
+rapidly weaker, we have but a slight chance of anything but
+starvation, unless we can get hold of some blacks.
+
+Tuesday, 25th June, 1861.--Night calm, clear and intensely cold,
+especially towards morning. Near daybreak, King reported seeing a
+moon in the east, with a haze of light stretching up from it; he
+declared it to be quite as large as the moon, and not dim at the
+edges. I am so weak that any attempt to get a sight of it was out
+of the question; but I think it must have been Venus in the
+Zodiacal Light that he saw, with a corona around her.
+
+26th.--Mr. Burke and King remain at home cleaning and pounding
+seed; they are both getting weaker every day; the cold plays the
+deuce with us, from the small amount of clothing we have: my
+wardrobe consists of a wide-awake, a merino shirt, a regatta shirt
+without sleeves, the remains of a pair of flannel trousers, two
+pairs of socks in rags, and a waistcoat, of which I have managed to
+keep the pockets together. The others are no better off. Besides
+these, we have between us, for bedding, two small camel pads, some
+horse-hair, two or three little bits of rag, and pieces of
+oil-cloth saved from the fire.
+
+The day turned out nice and warm.
+
+Wednesday, 27th June, 1861.--Calm night; sky overcast with hazy
+cumulostratus clouds; an easterly breeze sprung up towards morning,
+making the air much colder. After sunrise there were indications of
+a clearing up of the sky, but it soon clouded in again, the upper
+current continuing to move in an easterly direction, whilst a
+breeze from the north and north-east blew pretty regularly
+throughout the day. Mr. Burke and King are preparing to go up the
+creek in search of the blacks; they will leave me some nardoo,
+wood, and water, with which I must do the best I can until they
+return. I THINK THIS IS ALMOST OUR ONLY CHANCE. I feel myself, if
+anything, rather better, but I cannot say stronger: the nardoo is
+beginning to agree better with me; but without some change I see
+little chance for any of us. They have both shown great hesitation
+and reluctance with regard to leaving me, and have repeatedly
+desired my candid opinion in the matter. I could only repeat,
+however, that I considered it our only chance, for I could not last
+long on the nardoo, even if a supply could be kept up.
+
+Thursday, 28th June, 1861.--Cloudy, calm, and comparatively warm
+night, clouds almost stationary; in the morning a gentle breeze
+from east. Sky partially cleared up during the day, making it
+pleasantly warm and bright; it remained clear during the afternoon
+and evening, offering every prospect of a clear cold night.
+
+Friday, 29th June, 1861.--Clear cold night, slight breeze from the
+east, day beautifully warm and pleasant. Mr. Burke suffers greatly
+from the cold and is getting extremely weak; he and King start
+to-morrow up the creek to look for the blacks; it is the only
+chance we have of being saved from starvation. I am weaker than
+ever, although I have a good appetite and relish the nardoo much;
+but it seems to give us no nutriment, and the birds here are so shy
+as not to be got at. Even if we got a good supply of fish, I doubt
+whether we could do much work on them and the nardoo alone. Nothing
+now but the greatest good luck can save any of us; and as for
+myself I may live four or five days if the weather continues warm.
+My pulse is at forty-eight, and very weak, and my legs and arms are
+nearly skin and bone. I can only look out, like Mr. Micawber, 'for
+SOMETHING TO TURN up;' starvation on nardoo is by no means very
+unpleasant, but for the weakness one feels, and the utter inability
+to move one's self; for as far as appetite is concerned, it gives
+the greatest satisfaction. Certainly fat and sugar would be more to
+one's taste; in fact those seem to me to be the great stand-by for
+one in this extraordinary continent: not that I mean to depreciate
+the farinaceous food; but the want of sugar and fat in all
+substances obtainable here is so great that they become almost
+valueless to us as articles of food, without the addition of
+something else.
+
+(Signed) W.J. WILLS.
+
+CHAPTER 13.
+
+King's Narrative.
+Mr. Burke and King go in search of the Natives, as a last resource.
+Death of Mr. Burke.
+King returns and finds Mr. Wills dead in the Gunyah.
+He falls in with the Natives and wanders about with them until
+   delivered by Mr. Howitt's party.
+Extract from Mr. Howitt's Diary.
+Extract from Mr. McKinlay's Diary.
+My Son's last Letter to me, dated June 27th, 1861.
+Strong Attachment between Mr. Burke and my Son.
+King delivers the Letter and Watch intrusted to him.
+With some difficulty I recover the Pistol.
+King's Reception in Melbourne.
+Sir H. Barkly's Letter to Sir Roderick Murchison.
+Summary of Events and their Causes.
+
+THE latter portion of my poor son's journal was transcribed by Mr.
+Archer, Registrar-General of Victoria. We may believe that after
+writing the last paragraph to which he subscribed his name, he did
+not survive for many hours. The sequel, as far as any of its
+details can ever be made known to us, is best told in the
+unaffected language of
+
+JOHN KING'S NARRATIVE,
+
+AS DELIVERED TO THE ROYAL COMMISSION.
+
+Mr. Burke, Mr. Wills, and I, reached the depot at Cooper's Creek,
+on April 21st, about half-past seven in the evening, with two
+camels; all that remained of the six Mr. Burke took with him. All
+the provisions we then had consisted of one-and-a-half pound of
+dried meat. We found the party had gone the same day; and looking
+about for any mark they might have left, found the tree with 'DIG,
+Ap. 21.' Mr. Wills said the party had left for the Darling. We dug
+and found the plant of stores. Mr. Burke took the papers out of the
+bottle, and then asked each of us whether we were able to proceed
+up the creek in pursuit of the party; we said not, and he then said
+that he thought it his duty to ask us, but that he himself was
+unable to do so, but that he had decided upon trying to make Mount
+Hopeless, as he had been assured by the Committee in Melbourne,
+that there was a cattle station within 150 miles of Cooper's Creek.
+Mr. Wills was not inclined to follow this plan, and wished to go
+down our old track; but at last gave in to Mr. Burke's wishes. I
+also wished to go down by our old track. We remained four or five
+days to recruit, making preparations to go down the creek by stages
+of four or five miles a day, and Mr. Burke placed a paper in the
+plant stating what were our plans. Travelling down the creek, we
+got some fish from the natives; and some distance down, one of the
+camels (Landa) got bogged, and although we remained there that day
+and part of the next, trying to dig him out, we found our strength
+insufficient to do so. The evening of the second day we shot him as
+he lay, and having cut off as much meat as we could, we lived on it
+while we stayed to dry the remainder. Throwing all the least
+necessary things away, we made one load for the remaining camel
+(Rajah), and each of us carried a swag of about twenty-five pounds.
+We were then tracing down the branches of the creek running south,
+and found that they ran out into earthy plains. We had understood
+that the creek along Gregory's track was continuous; and finding
+that all these creeks ran out into plains, Mr. Burke returned, our
+camel being completely knocked up. We then intended to give the
+camel a spell for a few days, and to make a new attempt to push on
+forty or fifty miles to the south, in the hope of striking the
+creek. During the time that the camel was being rested, Mr. Burke
+and Mr. Wills went in search of the natives, to endeavour to find
+out how the nardoo grew. Having found their camp, they obtained as
+much nardoo cake and fish as they could eat, but could not explain
+that they wished to be shown how to find the seed themselves: they
+returned on the third day bringing some fish and nardoo cake with
+them. On the following day the camel Rajah seemed very ill, and I
+told Mr. Burke I thought he could not linger out more than four
+days, and as on the same evening the poor brute was on the point of
+dying, Mr. Burke ordered him to be shot; I did so, and we cut him
+up with two broken knives and a lancet: we cured the meat and
+planted it, and Mr. Burke then made another attempt to find the
+nardoo, taking me with him: we went down the creek expecting to
+find the natives at the camp where they had been last seen, but
+found that they had left; and not knowing whether they had gone up
+or down the creek, we slept in their gunyahs that night, and on the
+following morning returned to Mr. Wills. The next day, Mr. Burke
+and I started up the creek, but could see nothing of them, and were
+three days away, when we returned and remained three days in our
+camp with Mr. Wills. We then made a plant of all the articles we
+could not carry with us, leaving five pounds of rice and a quantity
+of meat, and then followed up the creek to where there were some
+good native huts. We remained at that place a few days; and finding
+that our provisions were beginning to run short, Mr. Burke said,
+that we ought to do something, and that if we did not find the
+nardoo, we should starve, and that he intended to save a little
+dried meat and rice to carry us to Mount Hopeless. The three of us
+then came to the conclusion that it would be better to make a
+second attempt to reach Mount Hopeless, as we were then as strong
+as we were likely to be, our daily allowance being then reduced.
+Mr. Burke asked each of us whether we were willing to make another
+attempt to reach the South Australian settlements, and we decided
+on going; we took with us what remained of the provisions we had
+planted--two-and-a-half pounds of oatmeal, a small quantity of
+flour, and the dried meat: this, with powder and shot, and other
+small articles, made up our swags to thirty pounds each, and Mr.
+Burke carried one billy of water; and I another. We had not gone
+far before we came on a flat, where I saw a plant growing which I
+took to be clover, and on looking closer saw the seed, and called
+out that I had found the nardoo; they were very glad when I found
+it. We travelled three days, and struck a watercourse coming south
+from Cooper's Creek; we traced this as it branched out and
+re-formed in the plains, until we at last lost it in flat country;
+sandhills were in front of us, for which we made, and travelled all
+day but found no water. We were all greatly fatigued, as our
+rations now consisted of only one small Johnny cake and three
+sticks of dried meat daily. We camped that evening about four
+o'clock, intending to push next day until two o'clock P.M., and
+then, should we not find water, to return. We travelled and found
+no water, and the three of us sat down and rested for one hour, and
+then turned back. We all felt satisfied that had there been a few
+days' rain we could have got through: we were then, according to
+Mr. Wills's calculation, forty-five miles from the creek. We
+travelled, on the day we turned back, very late, and the following
+evening reached the nearest water at the creek. We gathered some
+nardoo and boiled the seeds, as we were unable to pound them. The
+following day we reached the main creek; and knowing where there
+was a fine waterhole and native gunyahs, we went there intending to
+save what remained of our flour and dried meat for the purpose of
+making another attempt to reach Mount Hopeless. On the following
+day Mr. Wills and I went out to gather nardoo, of which we obtained
+a supply sufficient for three days, and finding a pounding stone at
+the gunyahs, Mr. Burke and I pounded the seed, which was such slow
+work that we were compelled to use half flour and half nardoo. Mr.
+Burke and Mr. Wills then went down the creek for the remainder of
+the dried meat which we had planted; and we had now all our things
+with us, gathering nardoo and living the best way we could. Mr.
+Burke requested Mr. Wills to go up the creek as far as the depot,
+and to place a note in the plant there, stating that we were then
+living on the creek, the former note having stated that we were on
+our road to South Australia. He also was to bury there the
+field-books of the journey to the Gulf. Before starting he got
+three pounds of flour and four pounds of pounded nardoo, and about
+a pound of meat, as he expected to be absent about eight days.
+During his absence I gathered nardoo and pounded it, as Mr. Burke
+wished to lay in a supply in case of rain.
+
+A few days after Mr. Wills left, some natives came down the creek
+to fish at some waterholes near our camp. They were very civil to
+us at first and offered us some fish. On the second day they came
+again to fish, and Mr. Burke took down two bags, which they filled
+for him. On the third day they gave us one bag of fish, and
+afterwards all came to our camp. We used to keep our ammunition and
+other articles in one gunyah, and all three of us lived together in
+another. One of the natives took an oilcloth out of this gunyah,
+and Mr. Burke seeing him run away with it followed him with his
+revolver and fired over his head, and upon this the native dropt
+the oilcloth; while he was away, the other blacks invited me away
+to a waterhole to eat fish, but I declined to do so as Mr. Burke
+was absent, and a number of natives were about who would have taken
+all our things. When I refused, one took his boomerang and laid it
+over my shoulder, and then told me by signs that if I called out
+for Mr. Burke (as I was doing) that he would strike me; upon this I
+got them all in front of the gunyah and fired a revolver over their
+heads, but they did not seem at all afraid until I got out the gun,
+when they all ran away. Mr. Burke hearing the report came back, and
+we saw no more of them until late that night, when they came with
+some cooked fish and called out "white fellow." Mr. Burke then went
+out with his revolver, and found a whole tribe coming down, all
+painted, and with fish in small nets carried by two men. Mr. Burke
+went to meet them, and they wished to surround him; but he knocked
+as many of the nets of fish out of their hands as he could, and
+shouted out to me to fire. I did so, and they ran off. We collected
+five small nets of cooked fish. The reason he would not accept the
+fish from them was, that he was afraid of being too friendly lest
+they should be always at our camp. We then lived on fish until Mr.
+Wills returned. He told us that he had met the natives soon after
+leaving us, and that they were very kind to him, and had given him
+plenty to eat both on going up and returning. He seemed to consider
+that he should have very little difficulty in living with them, and
+as their camp was close to ours he returned to them the same day
+and found them very hospitable and friendly, keeping him with them
+two days. They then made signs to him to be off: he came to us and
+narrated what had happened, but went back to them the following
+day, when they gave him his breakfast, but made signs for him to go
+away; he pretended not to understand them, and would not go, upon
+which they made signs that they were going up the creek, and that
+he had better go down: they packed up and left the camp, giving Mr.
+Wills a little nardoo to take to us.
+
+During his absence, while Mr. Burke was cooking some fish during a
+strong wind, the flames caught the gunyah and burned so rapidly
+that we were unable not only to put it out but to save any of our
+things, excepting one revolver and a gun. Mr. Wills having
+returned, it was decided to go up the creek and live with the
+natives if possible, as Mr. Wills thought we should have but little
+difficulty in obtaining provisions from them if we camped on the
+opposite side of the creek to them. He said he knew where they were
+gone, so we packed up and started. Coming to the gunyahs where we
+expected to have found them, we were disappointed, and seeing a
+nardoo field close by halted, intending to make it our camp. For
+some time we were employed gathering nardoo, and laying up a
+supply. Mr. Wills and I used to collect and carry home a bag each
+day, and Mr. Burke generally pounded sufficient for our dinner
+during our absence; but Mr. Wills found himself getting very weak,
+and was shortly unable to go out to gather nardoo as before, or
+even strong enough to pound it, so that in a few days he became
+almost helpless. I still continued gathering, and Mr. Burke now
+also began to feel very weak, and said he could be of very little
+use in pounding; I had now to gather and pound for all three of us.
+I continued to do this for a few days; but finding my strength
+rapidly failing, my legs being very weak and painful, I was unable
+to go out for several days, and we were compelled to consume six
+days' stock which we had laid by. Mr. Burke now proposed that I
+should gather as much as possible in three days, and that with this
+supply we should go in search of the natives--a plan which had been
+urged upon us by Mr. Wills as the only chance of saving him and
+ourselves as well, as he clearly saw that I was no longer able to
+collect sufficient for our wants. Having collected the seed as
+proposed, and having pounded sufficient to last Mr. Wills for eight
+days, and two days for ourselves, we placed water and firewood
+within his reach and started; before leaving him, however, Mr.
+Burke asked him whether he still wished it, as under no other
+circumstance would he leave him, and Mr. Wills again said that he
+looked on it as our only chance. He then gave Mr. Burke a letter
+and his watch for his father, and we buried the remainder of the
+field-books near the gunyah. Mr. Wills said that, in case of my
+surviving Mr. Burke, he hoped that I would carry out his last
+wishes, in giving the watch and letter to his father.
+
+In travelling the first day, Mr. Burke seemed very weak, and
+complained of great pain in his legs and back. On the second day he
+seemed to be better, and said that he thought he was getting
+stronger, but on starting, did not go two miles before he said he
+could go no further. I persisted in his trying to go on, and
+managed to get him along several times, until I saw that he was
+almost knocked up, when he said he could not carry his swag, and
+threw all he had away. I also reduced mine, taking nothing but a
+gun and some powder and shot, and a small pouch and some matches.
+In starting again, we did not go far before Mr. Burke said we
+should halt for the night; but as the place was close to a large
+sheet of water, and exposed to the wind, I prevailed on him to go a
+little further, to the next reach of water, where we camped. We
+searched about and found a few small patches of nardoo, which I
+collected and pounded, and with a crow, which I shot, made a good
+evening's meal. From the time we halted Mr. Burke seemed to be
+getting worse, although he ate his supper; he said he felt
+convinced he could not last many hours, and gave me his watch,
+which he said belonged to the committee, and a pocket-book to give
+to Sir William Stawell, and in which he wrote some notes. He then
+said to me, "I hope you will remain with me here till I am quite
+dead--it is a comfort to know that some one is by; but, when I am
+dying, it is my wish that you should place the pistol in my right
+hand, and that you leave me unburied as I lie." That night he spoke
+very little, and the following morning I found him speechless, or
+nearly so, and about eight o'clock he expired. I remained a few
+hours there, but as I saw there was no use remaining longer I went
+up the creek in search of the natives. I felt very lonely, and at
+night usually slept in deserted wurleys belonging to the natives.
+Two days after leaving the spot where Mr. Burke died, I found some
+gunyahs where the natives had deposited a bag of nardoo, sufficient
+to last me a fortnight, and three bundles containing various
+articles. I also shot a crow that evening; but was in great dread
+that the natives would come and deprive me of the nardoo.
+
+I remained there two days to recover my strength, and then returned
+to Mr. Wills. I took back three crows; but found him lying dead in
+his gunyah, and the natives had been there and had taken away some
+of his clothes. I buried the corpse with sand, and remained there
+some days, but finding that my stock of nardoo was running short,
+and as I was unable to gather it, I tracked the natives who had
+been to the camp by their footprints in the sand, and went some
+distance down the creek shooting crows and hawks on the road. The
+natives, hearing the report of the gun, came to meet me, and took
+me with them to their camp, giving me nardoo and fish: they took
+the birds I had shot and cooked them for me, and afterwards showed
+me a gunyah where I was to sleep with three of the single men. The
+following morning they commenced talking to me, and putting one
+finger on the ground and covering it with sand, at the same time
+pointing up the creek saying "white fellow," which I understood to
+mean that one white man was dead. From this I knew that they were
+the tribe who had taken Mr. Wills's clothes. They then asked me
+where the third white man was, and I also made the sign of putting
+two fingers on the ground and covering them with sand, at the same
+time pointing up the creek. They appeared to feel great compassion
+for me when they understood that I was alone on the creek, and gave
+me plenty to eat. After being four days with them, I saw that they
+were becoming tired of me, and they made signs that they were going
+up the creek and that I had better go downwards; but I pretended
+not to understand them. The same day they shifted camp, and I
+followed them, and on reaching their camp I shot some crows, which
+pleased them so much that they made me a breakwind in the centre of
+their camp, and came and sat round me until such time as the crows
+were cooked, when they assisted me to eat them. The same day one of
+the women, to whom I had given part of a crow, came and gave me a
+ball of nardoo, saying that she would give me more only she had
+such a sore arm that she was unable to pound. She showed me a sore
+on her arm, and the thought struck me that I would boil some water
+in the billy and wash her arm with a sponge. During the operation,
+the whole tribe sat round and were muttering one to another. Her
+husband sat down by her side, and she was crying all the time.
+After I had washed it, I touched it with some nitrate of silver,
+when she began to yell, and ran off, crying out "Mokow! Mokow!"
+(Fire! Fire!). From this time, she and her husband used to give me
+a small quantity of nardoo both night and morning, and whenever the
+tribe was about going on a fishing excursion he used to give me
+notice to go with them. They also used to assist me in making a
+wurley or breakwind whenever they shifted camp. I generally shot a
+crow or a hawk, and gave it to them in return for these little
+services. Every four or five days the tribe would surround me and
+ask whether I intended going up or down the creek; at last I made
+them understand that if they went up I should go up the creek, and
+if they went down I should also go down; and from this time they
+seemed to look upon me as one of themselves, and supplied me with
+fish and nardoo regularly: they were very anxious, however, to know
+where Mr. Burke lay, and one day when we were fishing in the
+waterholes close by, I took them to the spot. On seeing his
+remains, the whole party wept bitterly, and covered them with
+bushes. After this, they were much kinder to me than before, and I
+always told them that the white men would be here before two moons;
+and in the evening when they came with nardoo and fish they used to
+talk about the "white-fellows" coming, at the same time pointing to
+the moon. I also told them they would receive many presents, and
+they constantly asked me for tomahawks, called by them "Bomay Ko."
+From this time to when the relief party arrived, a period of about
+a month, they treated me with uniform kindness, and looked upon me
+as one of themselves. The day on which I was released, one of the
+tribe who had been fishing came and told me that the "white
+fellows," were coming, and the whole of the tribe who were then in
+camp sallied out in every direction to meet the party, while the
+man who had brought the news took me over the creek, where I
+shortly saw the party coming down.
+
+. . .
+
+Brahe having quitted Cooper's Creek, as we have seen, on the 21st of
+April, retraced his steps, towards the Darling. On the 28th or 29th
+(there is a doubt about the exact date), he fell in with Wright's
+party at Bulloo, and placed himself under his orders. On the 29th,
+Dr. Becker died. On the 1st of May they left Bulloo, on their
+return to Menindie. On the 3rd, Wright makes the following entry in
+his diary:--
+
+Friday, Koorliatto.--As I was anxious to ascertain, before
+finally leaving the country, whether Mr. Burke had visited the old
+depot at Cooper's Creek, between the present date and that on which
+he left on his advance northward, or whether the stores cached
+there had been disturbed by the natives, I started with Mr. Brahe
+and three horses for Cooper's Creek and reached the head waters of
+that creek on Sunday, the 5th May, in about seventy miles, steering
+about west-north-west. I did not find any water throughout the
+distance, but crossed several fine large gum creeks, and saw an
+immense number of native dogs.
+
+Thursday, May 9th.--This morning I reached Cooper's Creek depot,
+and found no sign of Mr. Burke having visited the creek, or of the
+natives having disturbed the stores. I therefore retraced my steps
+to the depot that remained at Koorliatto.
+
+. . .
+
+On the examination of Wright and Brahe before the Royal Commission,
+it came out that they did not remain more than a quarter of an hour
+at Cooper's Creek depot, casting only a hurried glance around; and
+believing that no one had been there, never thought of opening the
+cache to identify the fact. Had they done so, they would have found
+the papers and letters deposited by Mr. Burke, and all would yet
+have been well. It is much to be regretted, and may excite some
+surprise, that Burke and my son, after opening and closing up the
+cache, affixed no EXTERNAL token of their having been there. But
+the apathy, stupidity, and carelessness of Wright and Brahe are
+really beyond comprehension. The effect of their miserably evasive
+and contradictory evidence, when under examination, can never be
+forgotten by those who were present. They, too, left no indications
+of their useless visit. It will be remembered that twenty-two days
+after, on the 30th of May, my son returned to Cooper's Creek for
+the last time, and deposited his journals and letters in the cache.
+
+The following extracts from Mr. Howitt's diary relate the discovery
+of King, with the finding and interment of the remains of Mr. Burke
+and my son.
+
+September 14th, 1861.--Latitude, 27 degrees 4 minutes; longitude
+140 degrees 4 minutes.--Camped on a large waterhole, about a
+quarter of a mile below Mr. Burke's first camp, after leaving the
+depot at Cooper's Creek. We could see where the camels had been
+tied up, but found no marked tree. To-day I noticed in two or three
+places old camel-droppings and tracks, where Mr. Brahe informed me
+he was certain their camels had never been, as they were watched
+every day near the depot and tied up at night. Mr. Burke's camels
+were led on the way down. It looked very much as if stray camels
+had been about during the last four months. The tracks seemed to me
+to be going up the creek, but the ground was too strong to be able
+to make sure.
+
+September 15th.--Camp 32.--Latitude, 27 degrees 44 minuts;
+longitude, 140 degrees 40 minutes.--On leaving this morning I went
+ahead with Sandy, to try and pick up Mr. Burke's track. At the
+lower end of a large waterhole, from which one or two horses had
+been feeding for some months, the tracks ran in all directions to
+and from the water, and even as recent as a week. At the same place
+I found the handle of a clasp-knife. From here struck out south for
+a short distance from the creek, and found a distinct camel's track
+and droppings on a native path: the footprint was about four months
+old and going east. I then sent the black boy to follow the creek,
+and struck across some sandy country in a bend on the north side.
+No tracks here; and coming on a native path leading my way, I
+followed it, as the most likely place to see any signs. In about
+four miles this led me to the lower end of a very large reach of
+water, and on the opposite side were numbers of native wurleys. I
+crossed at a neck of sand, and at a little distance again came on
+the track of a camel going up the creek; at the same time I found a
+native, who began to gesticulate in a very excited manner, and to
+point down the creek, bawling out, "Gow, gow!" as loud as he could.
+When I went towards him he ran away, and finding it impossible to
+get him to come to me, I turned back to follow a camel track, and
+to look after my party. The track was visible in sandy places, and
+was evidently the same I had seen for the last two days. I also
+found horse traces in places, but very old. Crossing the creek, I
+cut our track, and rode after the party. In doing so I came upon
+three pounds of tobacco, which had lain where I saw it for some
+time. This, together with a knife-handle, fresh horse tracks, and
+the camel track going eastward, puzzled me extremely, and led me
+into a hundred conjectures. At the lower end of the large reach of
+water before mentioned, I met Sandy and Frank looking for me, with
+the intelligence that King, the only survivor of Mr. Burke's party,
+had been found. A little further on I found the party halted, and
+immediately went across to the blacks' wurleys, where I found King
+sitting in a hut which the natives had made for him. He presented a
+melancholy appearance--wasted to a shadow, and hardly to be
+distinguished as a civilized being but by the remnants of clothes
+upon him. He seemed exceedingly weak, and I found it occasionally
+difficult to follow what he said. The natives were all gathered
+round, seated on the ground, looking with a most gratified and
+delighted expression.
+
+September 18th.--Left camp this morning with Messrs. Brahe, Welsh,
+Wheeler, and King, to perform a melancholy duty, which has weighed
+on my mind ever since we have encamped here, and which I have only
+put off until King should be well enough to accompany us. We
+proceeded down the creek for seven miles, crossing a branch running
+to the southward, and followed a native track leading to that part
+of the creek where Mr. Burke, Mr. Wills, and King encamped after
+their unsuccessful attempt to reach Mount Hopeless and the northern
+settlements of South Australia, and where poor Wills died. We found
+the two gunyahs situated on a sand-bank between two waterholes and
+about a mile from the flat where they procured nardoo seed, on
+which they managed to exist so long. Poor Wills's remains we found
+lying in the wurley in which he died, and where King, after his
+return from seeking for the natives, had buried him with sand and
+rushes. We carefully collected the remains and interred them where
+they lay; and, not having a prayer-book, I read chapter 15 of 1
+Corinthians, that we might at least feel a melancholy satisfaction
+in having shown the last respect to his remains. We heaped sand
+over the grave, and laid branches upon it, that the natives might
+understand by their own tokens not to disturb the last repose of a
+fellow-being. I cut the following inscription on a tree close by,
+to mark the spot:--
+
+W.J.WILLS,
+XLV. YDS.
+W.N.W.
+A.H.
+
+(W. J. WILLS, 45 yards, west-north-west. A.H.)
+
+The field-books, a note-book belonging to Mr. Burke, various
+small articles lying about, of no value in themselves, but now
+invested with a deep interest, from the circumstances connected
+with them, and some of the nardoo seed on which they had subsisted,
+with the small wooden trough in which it had been cleaned, I have
+now in my possession.
+
+September 21st.--Finding that it would not be prudent for King to
+go out for two or three days, I could no longer defer making a
+search for the spot where Mr. Burke died, and with such directions
+as King could give, I went up to the creek this morning with
+Messrs. Brahe, Welsh, Wheeler, and Aitkin. We searched the creek
+upwards for eight miles, and at length, strange to say, found the
+remains of Mr. Burke lying among tall plants under a clump of
+box-trees, within two hundred yards of our last camp, and not
+thirty paces from our track. It was still more extraordinary that
+three or four of the party and the two black boys had been close to
+the spot without noticing it. The bones were entire, with the
+exception of the hands and feet; and the body had been removed from
+the spot where it first lay, and where the natives had placed
+branches over it, to about five paces' distance. I found the
+revolver which Mr. Burke held in his hand when he expired partly
+covered with leaves and earth, and corroded with rust. It was
+loaded and capped. We dug a grave close to the spot, and interred
+the remains wrapped in the union jack--the most fitting covering in
+which the bones of a brave but unfortunate man could take their
+last rest. On a box-tree, at the head of the grave, the following
+inscription is cut in a similar manner to the above:--
+
+R.O'H.B.
+21/9/61
+A.H.
+
+September 23rd.--Went down the creek to-day in search of the natives
+. . .I could not think of leaving without showing them that we
+could appreciate and reward the kindness they had shown to Burke's
+party and particularly to King. . .Passed the first feeder of
+Strleczki's Creek, going to the southward, and at a large reach of
+water below, found the natives camped. They made a great commotion
+when we rode up, but seemed very friendly. I unpacked my blanket,
+and took out specimens of the things I intended giving them,--a
+tomahawk, a knife, beads, a looking-glass, comb, and flour and
+sugar. The tomahawk was the great object of attraction, after that
+the knife, but I think the looking-glass surprised them most. On
+seeing their faces reflected, some seemed dazzled, others opened
+their eyes like saucers, and made a rattling noise with their
+tongues expressive of wonder. We had quite a friendly palaver, and
+my watch amused them immensely. I made them understand that they
+were to bring the whole tribe up next morning to our camp to
+receive their presents, and we parted the best of friends.
+
+September 24th.--This morning, about ten o'clock, our black friends
+appeared in a long procession, men, women, and children, or, as
+they here also call them, piccaninnies; and at a mile distance they
+commenced bawling at the top of their voices as usual. When
+collected altogether on a little flat, just below our camp, they
+must have numbered between thirty and forty, and the uproar was
+deafening. With the aid of King, I at last got them all seated
+before me, and distributed the presents--tomahawks, knives,
+necklaces, looking-glasses, combs--amongst them. I think no people
+were ever so happy before, and it was very interesting to see how
+they pointed out one or another whom they thought might be
+overlooked. The piccaninnies were brought forward by their parents
+to have red ribbon tied round their dirty little heads. An old
+woman, Carrawaw, who had been particularly kind to King, was loaded
+with things. I then divided fifty pounds of sugar between them,
+each one taking his share in a union-jack pocket-handkerchief,
+which they were very proud of. The sugar soon found its way into
+their mouths; the flour, fifty pounds of which I gave them, they at
+once called "white-fellow nardoo," and explained that they
+understood that these things were given to them for having fed
+King. Some old clothes were then put on some of the men and women,
+and the affair ended in several of our party and several of the
+black fellows having an impromptu "corroboree," to the intense
+delight of the natives, and I must say, very much to our amusement.
+They left, making signs expressive of friendship, carrying their
+presents with them. The men all wore a net girdle; and of the women
+some wore one of leaves, others of feathers. I feel confident that
+we have left the best impression behind us, and that the "white
+fellows," as they have already learned to call us, will be looked
+on henceforth as friends, and that, in case of emergency, any one
+will receive the kindest treatment at their hands.
+
+. . .
+
+The South Australian Register, of the 26th of November, 1861,
+published at Adelaide, contained the following statement, which
+excited universal attention:--
+
+The Government have just received from Mr. McKinlay, leader of
+the expedition sent from this colony in search of Burke, a diary of
+his proceedings up to the 26th of October last. This document
+contains a most singular narrative, being nothing less than an
+account of McKinlay's discovery of what he believes to be the
+remains of Burke's party, who he considers were some time since not
+only murdered, but partly eaten by the natives in the neighbourhood
+of Cooper's Creek. He, of course, had heard nothing of the result
+of Mr. Howitt's expedition, or of Mr. King having been found alive
+by that expedition. When, therefore, he came to a spot where there
+were graves containing the bones of white men, and where there were
+indications of a conflict having taken place with the natives, some
+of whom spoke of those white men having been killed and partly
+eaten, he came to the conclusion that he had ascertained all that
+was possible of Mr. Burke and his companions. He accordingly buried
+a letter, containing a statement to this effect, at a place near
+where the remains were found, and then after forwarding to Adelaide
+the despatch which has now reached us, proceeded westward upon some
+other business intrusted to him by the Government.
+
+It seems fated that every chapter of the unfortunate Burke
+exploration shall be marked with unusual interest. The failures at
+the beginning of the enterprise, the tragedy of the explorers'
+deaths, and the remarkable rescue of the survivor King, are now
+followed by a subject of interest altogether new and mysterious.
+Certain as it is that McKinlay cannot have discovered the remains
+of Burke's party, as he so firmly believed he had, it is equally
+clear that some other white men must have met their deaths at the
+spot reached by him, and that those deaths were, to all appearance,
+the result of foul play. That the remains found by McKinlay cannot
+have been those of Burke and Wills, disinterred, removed, and
+mangled after death, may be inferred from a number of circumstances
+detailed by him in the extracts which we have given from his diary.
+It will be seen that marks of violence were found on the remains,
+that there were indications of white men having camped in the
+neighbourhood (which was far distant from any camp of Burke's),
+that one of the natives bore marks of having been engaged in a
+conflict where pistols were used, and that, lastly, the natives
+themselves said the bones were those of white men who had been
+murdered and eaten. All this would probably appear conclusive to
+Mr. McKinlay that he had ascertained the fate of the explorers whom
+he had been in search of. He was prepared for such a result, and
+there were many circumstances favourable to its probability. He saw
+even, as he believed, positive indications of camels having been at
+the place where he found the graves; and yet, it will be seen, he
+speaks of appearances indicating that the remains were buried a
+long time ago, and states that some of the human hair discovered
+was in a state of decay. This certainly would not accord with the
+supposition of the remains being those of Burke. But it is useless
+to seek an explanation of this strange matter from the facts at
+present before us. It is a mystery which will have further to be
+inquired into, and which Mr. McKinlay himself will perhaps be able
+to throw some light upon when he reviews all the particulars of the
+discovery, with the knowledge before him that Burke and his
+companions were not killed by the natives, but died from
+starvation, and were buried at places far distant from the spot
+where these new remains were discovered.
+
+. . .
+
+The following extract from McKinlay's diary details the
+incidents here spoken of more minutely.
+
+October 21st.--Up in good time. Before starting for the grave went
+round the lake, taking Mr. Hodgkinson with me, to see if natives
+were really on the lake, as I did not intend saddling the camels
+to-day if there were no natives here, intending to leave our camp
+unprotected--rather unwise, but being so short of hands could not
+help it, the grave being much out of sight. Found no natives round
+the lake, nor any very recent traces, saving that some of the trees
+were still burning that they (when here last) had lighted. We
+started at once for the grave, taking a canteen of water with us
+and all the arms. On arrival removed the ground carefully, and
+close to the top of the earth found the body of a European
+enveloped in a flannel shirt with short sleeves--a piece of the
+breast of which I have taken--the flesh, I may say, completely
+cleared from the bones, and very little hair but what must have
+been decomposed; what little there was, I have taken. Description
+of body: Skull marked with slight sabre cuts, apparently two in
+number--one immediately over the left eye, the other on the right
+temple, inclining over right ear, more deep than the left; decayed
+teeth existed in both sides of lower jaw and right of upper; the
+other teeth were entire and sound. In the lower jaw were two
+teeth--one on each side (four between in front) rather projecting,
+as is sometimes called in the upper jaw "back teeth." I have
+measured the bones of the thigh and leg as well as the arm with a
+cord, not having any other method of doing it; gathered all the
+bones together and buried them again, cutting a lot of boughs and
+other wood and putting over top of the earth. Body lies head south,
+feet north, lying on face, head severed from body. On a small tree
+immediately south we marked "MK, 21st Oct., 61." Immediately this
+was over we questioned the native further on the subject of his
+death. He says he was killed by a stroke from what the natives call
+a sword (an instrument of semicircular form, five to eight feet
+long, and very formidable). He showed us where the whites had been
+attacked when encamped. We saw lots of fish-bones, but no evidence
+there on the trees to suppose whites had been there. They had
+certainly chosen a very bad camp, in the centre of a box scrub,
+with native huts within 150 to 200 yards of them. On further
+examination we found the dung of camels and horse or horses
+evidently tied up a long time ago. Between that and the grave we
+found another grave, evidently dug with a spade or shovel, and a
+lot of human hair of two colours, that had become decomposed in the
+skin of the skull and fallen off in flakes, some of which I have
+also taken. I fancy they must all have been murdered here. Dug out
+the new-found grave with a stick, the only instrument we had, but
+found no remains of bodies, save one little bone. The black
+accounted for this in this manner--he says they had eaten them.
+Found in an old fireplace immediately adjoining what appeared to be
+bones very well burnt, but not in any quantity. In and about the
+last grave named, a piece of light blue tweed and fragments of
+paper, and small pieces of a Nautical Almanac were found, and an
+exploded Eley's cartridge; no appearance on any of the trees of
+bullet marks as if a struggle had taken place. On a further
+examination of the blacks' camp where the pint pot was found, there
+was also found a tin canteen similar to what is used for keeping
+naphtha in, or some such stuff, both of which we keep. The natives
+say that any memos the whites had are back on the last camp we were
+at on the lake with the natives, as well as the iron-work of
+saddles, etc., which on our return we mean to endeavour to recover,
+if the blacks can be found. It may be rash, but there is necessity
+for it. Intend before returning to have a further search.
+
+. . .
+
+The next day they dug up a quantity of baked horsehair, which
+had apparently been used for saddle stuffing. The hostility
+displayed by the blacks compelled Mr. McKinlay and his party to
+fire upon them. The mystery attached to the remains here spoken of
+has yet to be cleared up. The idea at first entertained that they
+were those of Gray is not tenable. A glance at the map will show
+that Gray died and was buried far away to the north-east of
+McKinlay's track.
+
+On the day of King's arrival in Melbourne, my son's watch, a gold
+chronometer, which he had used to calculate the longitudes by, was
+duly delivered to me in presence of the Governor; also his last
+letter, distinctly traced in a firm hand on a ruled page torn from
+some book. It was not sealed, but neatly wrapped in a loose cover.
+The relic is invaluable.
+
+MR. WILLS'S LAST LETTER TO HIS FATHER. BROUGHT DOWN BY KING.
+
+Cooper's Creek, 27 June, 1861.
+
+MY DEAR FATHER,
+
+These are probably the last lines you will ever get from me. We are
+on the point of starvation, not so much from absolute want of food,
+but from the want of nutriment in what we can get.
+
+Our position, although more provoking, is probably not near so
+disagreeable as that of poor Harry* and his companions. [Footnote:
+Harry, his cousin, Lieutenant Le Vescompte, who perished with Sir
+John Franklin.] We have had very good luck, and made a most
+successful trip to Carpentaria, and back to where we had every
+right to consider ourselves safe, having left a depot here
+consisting of four men, twelve horses, and six camels. They had
+provisions enough to have lasted them twelve months with proper
+economy, and we had also every right to expect that we should have
+been immediately followed up from Menindie by another party with
+additional provisions and every necessary for forming a permanent
+depot at Cooper's Creek. The party we left here had special
+instructions not to leave until our return, UNLESS FROM ABSOLUTE
+NECESSITY. We left the creek with nominally three months' supply,
+but they were reckoned at little over the rate of half rations. We
+calculated on having to eat some of the camels. By the greatest
+good luck, at every turn, we crossed to the gulf, through a good
+deal of fine country, almost in a straight line from here. On the
+other side the camels suffered considerably from wet; we had to
+kill and jerk one soon after starting back. We had now been out a
+little more than two months, and found it necessary to reduce the
+rations considerably; and this began to tell on all hands, but I
+felt it by far less than any of the others. The great scarcity and
+shyness of game, and our forced marches, prevented our supplying
+the deficiency from external sources to any great extent; but we
+never could have held out but for the crows and hawks, and the
+portulac. The latter is an excellent vegetable, and I believe
+secured our return to this place. We got back here in four months
+and four days, and found the party had left the Creek the same day,
+and we were not in a fit state to follow them.
+
+I find I must close this, that it may be planted; but I will write
+some more, although it has not so good a chance of reaching you as
+this. You have great claims on the committee for their neglect. I
+leave you in sole charge of what is coming to me. The whole of my
+money I desire to leave to my sisters; other matters I pass over
+for the present. Adieu, my dear Father. Love to Tom. [Footnote:
+Tom, his brother in Melbourne.]
+
+W.J. WILLS.
+
+I think to live about four or five days. My spirits are excellent.
+
+. . .
+
+The remark that I had great claims on the committee was inserted
+in the letter, as King informed me, in consequence of Mr. Burke
+observing, "Wills, be sure to say something to that effect." The
+letter was read to Burke and King by my son, as soon as he had
+concluded it. On King's examination, he was questioned as follows,
+on this point:
+
+Question 1068. Do you see that letter--[pointing to the letter
+written by Mr. Wills to his father]?--That is the letter Mr. Wills
+read.
+
+1069. Did he read it out for the purpose of being corrected if
+there was any statement in it that was not quite correct?--I
+believe the reason was, in case the letter should be found, that he
+should not say anything to our disadvantage, mine or Mr. Burke's;
+he thought that we would see it was the truth and nothing but the
+truth.--[Watch produced]--That is the watch Mr. Wills desired the
+survivor to give to his father, which I have done.
+
+1070. There was a pocket-book, was there not?--Yes, which Mr. Burke
+gave me on the evening before his death, requesting me to deliver
+it to Sir William Stawell, but under any circumstances I was not to
+deliver it to any other gentleman of the committee. I delivered it
+to Sir William Stawell this morning.
+
+1071. Did you know anything of the nature of the contents of it?
+--No, except what Mr. Burke read to me affecting myself, and which
+Sir William Stawell has read to me this morning. The same book I
+showed to Mr. Howitt, telling him that it was Mr. Burke's desire
+that I should deliver it to Sir William Stawell himself. Mr. Burke
+also gave me his watch, and told me it was the property of the
+committee; the same I delivered to Mr. Howitt.
+
+1072. You kept possession of the book?--Yes, and gave it over to
+Sir William Stawell this morning.
+
+1073. How did you preserve all those things while with the blacks?
+--I had a small canvas pouch, which I always carried about with me
+on my person.
+
+1074. Did they ever covet anything?--Yes, they used often to make
+me show them the contents of it.
+
+. . .
+
+The letter and watch being handed to Mr. Burke, my son then lent him
+his pistol, the only defence he could have retained against hostile
+attack, and lying on the bare ground, resigned to his fate,
+urgently requested them to leave him. Imagination, with all the aid
+of poetical fancy, can conceive no position to exceed this in utter
+desolation. It has been said, and many may think, they ought not to
+have separated. No consideration, or argument, should have induced
+his two companions to abandon him. It was indeed a trying
+alternative, but falling in with the blacks appeared to be the only
+chance of rescue for the whole party; and had this fortunately
+happened before the sudden and total prostration of Burke, there
+can be no doubt they would have hastened immediately to bring the
+same succour to my son. King informed me that Mr. Burke was
+dreadfully distressed, and that he had great difficulty in
+persuading him to go on. At times he would stop and exclaim, "How
+can I leave him, that dear, good fellow?" He was usually in the
+habit of addressing him as "My dear boy," for although
+twenty-seven, and wearing a beard, he had such a youthful
+appearance that few would have taken him for more than twenty when
+he left Melbourne.
+
+During the whole journey, and through all their trials, King said
+that not an approach to altercation, or a word of difference, ever
+took place between my poor boy and his leader. When I claimed the
+pistol above alluded to, it was considered of too much consequence
+to be surrendered without minute investigation. To my first
+application I received the following diplomatic reply:
+
+EXPLORATION COMMITTEE,
+
+Royal Society of Victoria,
+
+Victoria Street, Melbourne, January 28th, 1862.
+
+SIR,
+
+I have the honour to inform you that, at a committee meeting held
+27th instant, the Honourable Dr. Wilkie in the chair, the subject
+of delivering the "Burke" pistol to you, which you claim as your
+late son's property, was discussed. The report of the
+Assistant-Secretary was to the effect that, as the tradesmen who
+supplied the fire-arms did not register the numbers, the identity
+of this particular pistol could not be traced as one supplied to
+the expedition; but that as there were several "Colt's" revolvers
+furnished, there is room for doubt as to whether this may not be
+one of them.
+
+As the committee merely wishes to be fully satisfied of the
+validity of your claim before parting with such a melancholy and
+interesting relic, instructions have been given to apply to Mr.
+King for any information he may be able to supply, to guide the
+committee to a right decision.
+
+I have the honour to be, sir,
+
+Your most obedient servant,
+
+JOHN MACADAM, M.D.,
+
+Hon. Secretary.
+
+W. WILLS, ESQ. M.D.
+
+. . .
+
+Finally, and with much trouble, after I know not how many meetings,
+and what amount of discussion, the pistol was handed over to me,
+and is now in my possession. So much for my claims on the
+Committee, who are the only parties acquainted with the merits of
+my poor son from whom I have received anything like coldness or
+offence. On the day of King's arrival, as the mail was leaving for
+England, I was anxious to obtain at once the letter which I knew
+was in his possession. My earnestness interrupted an arrangement
+they had made for receiving him, and my unseasonable importunity,
+as it was considered, drew on me something bearing a close
+resemblance to a vote of censure.
+
+King, who although only a common soldier, has a heart and feelings
+which would do no dishonour to a gentleman of education, would have
+preferred coming into Melbourne, after the loss of his officers, at
+least unostentatiously, if not in sackcloth and ashes. But he was
+greeted with a howling and shouting more suitable to the reception
+of some notorious bush-ranger recently captured. Many, in common
+with myself, considered the ovation out of place and character;
+while others, and apparently the more numerous party, were of a
+different opinion. Perhaps it was well meant, and chacun a son
+gout. Public enthusiasm is not always gaugeable by the standard of
+reason or good taste. The following account was printed:--
+
+From about five o'clock, groups of persons anxious to welcome
+back the first who had crossed and re-crossed the Australian
+continent began to pour into the station, and its vicinity was so
+crowded with cars and spectators that it was impossible to reach
+the entrance. The arrival of the train was hailed with vociferous
+cheering. The carriage in which King was a passenger was at once
+recognized by its being decorated with flags. Such was the "rush"
+to see King that it was some time before the porters could reach
+the carriage door, and when they had reached it they experienced
+considerable difficulty in getting the door opened. Dr. Gilbee, who
+was accompanied by Dr. Macadam, was in attendance with his private
+carriage to convey King as quietly as possible to the Royal
+Institute, where the Exploration Committee and a numerous
+assemblage of ladies and gentlemen were in waiting to see him.
+Those gentlemen, however, were unable to reach the carriage; and
+Dr. Wills, who was fortunately opposite the door, seeing that it
+was impossible for the arrangements to be carried out, immediately
+conveyed King to an open car and drove off. Dr. Gillbee and Dr.
+Macadam, with King's sister, immediately followed. The cars were
+then rushed; and cars, buggies, horses, and pedestrians raced along
+Collins Street to William Street, and thence to Government House. A
+great many were, of course, disappointed by this alteration, as it
+was generally expected that King would be received by His
+Excellency and the Committee at the Royal Institute, and therefore
+drove along the streets that were likely to facilitate their
+reaching the institution before King's arrival. On reaching
+Government House, King was assisted up stairs, for though he looked
+very healthy and robust; he was scarcely able to stand. He was
+taken into the room adjoining the Chief Secretary's office, where
+he was shortly afterwards joined by his sister. Their meeting was,
+of course, strictly private. In a few minutes the approaches to
+Government House, the lobbies, stairs, and landing were impassably
+crowded, so that it was necessary for the police to clear a passage
+for His Excellency from his own office to that of the Chief
+Secretary. His Excellency, accompanied by Captain Timins, entered
+the Chief Secretary's office, and after a short conversation with
+Welch, who accompanied King to town, went into the anteroom;
+accompanied by Captain Timins, and followed by Dr. Wills, Welch,
+and Brahe. When His Excellency entered the room, King and his
+sister respectfully stood up, but His Excellency requested them to
+be seated, as King was evidently unable to stand on his feet. The
+excitement was almost too much for the poor fellow, and it was
+thought advisable to get him away as speedily and as privately as
+possible to St. Kilda, where his sister resides.
+
+A few days afterwards, at a meeting of the Exploration Committee, a
+series of questions, more or less pertinent to the circumstances
+under which he appeared before them, were personally put to him by
+members of the committee, and which he answered calmly, displaying
+considerable intelligence and precision of mind in his replies to
+the rather discursive examination he was subjected to. The Herald,
+in reference to the interview, had the following observations:
+--John King was an object of great and curious interest. Having
+come out of such great tribulation--having fasted for so many days
+in the desert--having been wasted by privations till he became so
+near death that for Death to have overcome him would have been no
+triumph--he was regarded with feelings similar to those which made
+the people say of Dante, "There goes the man who has been in
+Hades." Though only a subordinate, he is a man possessing, we
+should say--or, indeed, as we know--good leading qualities, the
+attributes of a hero; and though his intellectual powers have not
+been highly cultivated, he evidently possesses no small share of
+intelligence. A man who would mind his own business, and not given
+to ask very many questions, which as things have turned out is to
+be regretted; but with a memory capable of retaining everything
+that came within his knowledge. His coolness rather took aback
+those members of the committee, yesterday, who seemed to have come
+loaded to the muzzle with questions, which they proceeded to fire
+off indiscriminately. He seemed to know better than those
+inquisitors the way in which his examination should be conducted;
+that the inquiry had a more important object than gratifying sheer
+curiosity; and when he goes before the Royal Commission next
+Thursday they will find him a very good witness. The deepest
+sympathy was expressed by the meeting, and it will be most
+sincerely felt by every soul to whom his extraordinary history will
+become known.
+
+The Exploration Committee held a private meeting on the 29th, at
+which King was present. He there stated that the tide rose and fell
+six inches at the part of the river where he was left by Messrs.
+Burke and Wills when they proceeded on foot with the object of
+discovering the sea. The gallantry of King is amply testified to by
+some memoranda in the handwriting of poor Burke--the last he ever
+wrote. The documents were contained in a pocket-book which the
+dying explorer committed to the care of the survivor, charging him
+to deliver it into the hands of Sir William Stawell. This last
+desire of his unfortunate commander was most scrupulously observed
+by King. The manuscript ran as follows:--
+
+I hope that we shall be done justice to. We have fulfilled our task,
+but we have been abandoned. We have not been followed up as we
+expected, and the depot party abandoned their post.
+
+R. O'HARA BURKE.
+
+Cooper's Creek, June 26th.
+
+King has behaved nobly. I hope that he will be properly cared for.
+He comes up the creek in accordance with my request.
+
+R. O'HARA BURKE.
+
+Cooper's Creek, June 28th.
+
+Again, the next entry says:--
+
+King has behaved nobly. He has stayed with me to the last,
+and placed the pistol in my hand, leaving me lying on the surface as
+I wished.
+
+R. O'H. BURKE.
+
+Cooper's Creek, June 28th.
+
+. . .
+
+The following sketch of the journey across the continent
+of Australia, by Messrs. Burke and Wills, in a letter from the
+Governor of Victoria, Sir Henry Barclay, to Sir Roderick Murchison,
+was read before the Royal Geographical Society in London on the
+15th of January, 1862, and was ordered to be printed in their
+proceedings. The letter also appeared in the Times of the 15th of
+January:--
+
+MY DEAR SIR RODERICK,
+
+Knowing the interest you have ever taken in the exploration of
+the interior of Australia, and that you still occupy the post of
+Vice-President of the Royal Geographical Society, it was my
+intention to address you fully by the present mail-steamer
+respecting the Victorian expedition under Burke and Wills, which
+you will learn has achieved the honour of first crossing from sea
+to sea, by a route far distant and utterly distinct from that of
+McDouall Stuart, from whose great fame as an explorer I have not
+the least desire to detract.
+
+I wished, indeed, as the expedition had cost the gallant leaders of
+it their lives, to narrate in a connected form its design and
+history from the very commencement, in order that it might serve
+the Geographical Society as a record, and prevent any misconception
+of the causes which have marred its triumphant result.
+
+I find, however, that the pressure of other business will prevent
+my carrying out this design, and I must content myself therefore
+with forwarding the newspapers which contain the best report of
+what has recently come to light, together with the diaries of Burke
+and Wills, as published in a pamphlet form, and lastly with a map
+of Australia, on which our Surveyor-General has added to other
+recent explorations, a reduced tracing of the track of the
+expedition, from the depot on Cooper's Creek to the Gulf of
+Carpentaria, where it struck, as would appear, the Flinders River,
+and not the Albert, as the explorers supposed.
+
+I would refer you, at the same time, for precise details of the
+whole enterprise to my several despatches of 21st of August, 1860;
+20th of July, and 20th of November, 1861; which I am confident the
+Duke of Newcastle will put at your disposal for the information of
+the Geographical Society, if applied to.
+
+On one account I am not sorry to be obliged to postpone a detailed
+communication on the subject, for it would be difficult to tell the
+sad story of the sufferings and death of the brave men who returned
+to the spot where they expected to find friends and ample store of
+provisions and clothing, only to find the depot abandoned, and to
+perish miserably in default of assistance, without at least
+implying blame in some quarter or other; and, as a good deal is
+still enveloped in mystery, and I have appointed a commission of
+inquiry to take evidence and report thereupon, it would obviously
+be improper in me to anticipate their conclusion.
+
+The sole survivor of the party who crossed the continent, John
+King, once, I believe, a soldier in India, is expected to reach
+Melbourne to-night; and with the aid of his recollections of the
+journey, the Surveyor-General hopes to be enabled to add to the
+chart on a large scale, which he is constructing from Mr. Wills's
+field books, fuller particulars as to the nature of the country; as
+well as to supply some blanks which were evidently left to be
+filled in afterwards, especially in regard to the route back,
+which, from the determination at our observatory of one of his
+earlier camps, from an observation of one of the planets which is
+recorded, seems to have been considerably to the eastward of the
+course pursued in going, though this is not expressly so stated.
+
+I need hardly add that as soon as Mr. Ligar finishes this chart I
+will send you copies of it, as also the report of the commission of
+inquiry.
+
+The country towards Carpentaria or Burke's Land--as I hope it will
+be called--seems so good that there can be little doubt of the
+formation, at no distant date, of a colony on the shores of that
+estuary;--a project which you have long, I know, had at heart; and
+before we recall the several parties sent out for the relief of the
+missing expedition, I trust we shall be able so far to complete the
+task as to connect the settled country, by Mr. Howitt's aid, with
+Burke's Land by the best possible route; and, by means of the party
+sent by sea in the Victoria steamer, to add greatly to our
+knowledge of the Gulf, and of the embouchures of the different
+rivers falling into it.
+
+Believe me ever,
+
+My dear Sir Roderick,
+
+Yours very truly,
+
+HENRY BARKLY.
+
+Government Offices, Melbourne, 25th November, 1861.
+
+P.S.--After I had finished my letter, I received a memorandum from
+the Surveyor-General respecting Mr. Wills's astronomical
+observations, which is of so much importance that I enclose it for
+your information, not having time to get a copy made.
+
+H.B.
+
+. . .
+
+It has been remarked, with some disposition to draw
+uncharitable conclusions therefrom, that no religious expressions,
+or any specific references to that all-important subject, are to be
+found in the field-books and journals that have been given to the
+public. On this point, King said, in reply to Question 1714, "I
+wish to state, with regard to there being no particular tokens of
+religion recorded in any part of the diaries, that we each had our
+Bible and Prayer-book, and occasionally read them going and coming
+back; and also the evening before the death of Mr. Burke, I am
+happy to say, he prayed to God for forgiveness for the past, and
+died happy, a sincere Christian."
+
+The curtain drops here on the history of the great Victorian
+Exploring Expedition, and little more remains to be told of its
+results or shortcomings. The continent was crossed, the Gulf
+reached, and the road indicated by the hardy pioneers, which their
+successors will find it comparatively easy to level and macadamize.
+Already the stimulant of the Burke and Wills catastrophe has called
+into active exercise the successive expeditions and discoveries of
+Howitt, Norman, Walker, Landsborough, and McKinlay. Others will
+rapidly follow, with the characteristic energy and perseverance of
+the Saxon race. Now that time has, to a certain extent, allayed the
+poignant grief of those who are most nearly and dearly interested
+in the fate of the original explorers; when first impulses have
+cooled down, and the excitement of personal feelings has given way
+before unquestionable evidence, we may safely ascribe, as far as
+human agencies are concerned, the comparative failure of the
+enterprise to the following specific causes:--
+
+1. The double mistake on the part of the leader, of dividing
+and subdividing his forces at Menindie and Cooper's Creek;
+
+2. The utter unfitness of Wright for the position in which he was
+placed;
+
+3. The abandonment by Brahe of the depot at Cooper's Creek;
+
+4. The resolve of the surviving explorers to attempt the route by
+Mount Hopeless, on their homeward journey;
+
+And lastly, to the dilatory inefficiency of the Committee, in not
+hurrying forward reliefs without a moment's delay, as the state of
+circumstances became gradually known to them.
+
+It is not so easy to estimate the relative quantity of blame which
+ought justly to attach to all who are implicated. Each will
+endeavour to convince himself that his own share is light, and that
+the weight of the burden should fall on the shoulders of some one
+else. Meanwhile, there remain for the heroic men who died in
+harness without a murmur in the unflinching exercise of their duty,
+an undying name, a public funeral, and a national monument; the
+unavailing sympathy and respect which rear an obelisk instead of
+bestowing a ribbon or a pension; recorded honours to the
+unconscious dead, in place of encouraging rewards to the triumphant
+living. A reverse of the picture, had it been permitted, might have
+been more agreeable; but the lesson intended to be conveyed, and
+the advantages to be derived from studying it, would have been far
+less salutary and profitable.
+
+CHAPTER 14.
+
+Letters of sympathy and condolence; from Sir Henry Barkly; Major
+   Egerton Warburton; A.J. Baker, Esquire; P.A. Jennings, Esquire;
+   Dr. Mueller; The Council of Ballaarat East; Robert Watson,
+   Esquire; John Lavington Evans, Esquire
+Meeting at Totnes.
+Resolution to erect a Monument to Mr. Wills.
+Proceedings in the Royal Geographical Society of London.
+Letter from Sir Roderick Murchison to Dr. Wills.
+Dr. Wills's Reply.
+The Lost Explorers, a poetical tribute.
+Concluding Observations.
+
+As soon as my son's death became publicly known, and there could no
+longer be a doubt on the subject, letters of condolence and
+sympathy poured in upon me from many quarters. From these I select
+a few as indicating the general impression produced by his untimely
+fate, and the estimation in which he was held by those who were
+personally acquainted with him. The afflicting event was
+communicated to his mother in Totnes, Devon, by a telegram a
+fortnight before the regular mail, accompanied by the following
+letter from Sir Henry Barkly, Governor of Victoria:--
+
+Government Office, Melbourne, November 26th, 1861.
+
+DEAR MADAM,
+
+Though you will hear of the bereavement which has befallen you
+inthe loss of your gallant son from those that are near and dear
+both to you and to himself, I cannot refrain, in the position I
+have the honour to hold, from adding my assurance of the sympathy
+of the entire community with your grief, and the universal
+admiration of his abilities as displayed throughout the expedition,
+and which his noble and heroic conduct to the last hour of his life
+have inspired.
+
+You may rely upon it that the name of William John Wills will go
+down to posterity, both at home and in this colony, amongst the
+brightest of those who have sacrificed their lives for the
+advancement of scientific knowledge and the good of their
+fellow-creatures.
+
+Believe me, dear Madam,
+
+Yours very respectfully,
+
+(Signed) HENRY BARKLY,
+
+Governor of Victoria.
+
+Mrs. Wills, Totnes, Devon.
+
+. . .
+
+Sir Henry also moved in the committee and the motion was
+carried nemine contradicente, that from the important part Mr. Wills
+had taken, the expedition should be called, "The Burke and Wills
+exploring Expedition." Some spiteful remarks by opposite partisans
+were made in the Melbourne Argus on this very natural and
+complimentary resolution. An advocate on one side said, "If the
+expedition had failed would it have been called the Burke and Wills
+Expedition?--We opine not." To which another replied the following
+day, in the same columns, "Would the expedition have succeeded if
+Wills had not been there?--We opine not." None would have regretted
+these invidious observations more than the generous, free-hearted
+Burke, and my gallant son, had they lived to see them. They had no
+petty jealousies. Each knew his position, and they acted throughout
+with unswerving confidence as friends as well as associated
+explorers.
+
+It was asserted by Burke's enemies that he was violent, and not
+having sufficient command over himself, was therefore unfitted to
+command others. This conclusion, sound enough in the abstract, is
+more easily made than proved, and in the present instance receives
+direct contradiction from the undeviating cordiality between the
+leader and his second. In the cases of Landells and Dr. Beckler,
+universal opinion pronounced Burke to be in the right.
+
+. . .
+
+FROM MAJOR EGERTON WARBURTON.
+
+Adelaide.
+
+MY DEAR DR. WILLS,
+
+Vain as must be any consolation that can be offered to you under the
+circumstances of almost unparalleled distress attending the loss of
+your son, I cannot but avail myself of our acquaintanceship to
+express my most humble and hearty sympathy in the terrible
+catastrophe.
+
+Anger and horror combine to drive us away from the contemplation of
+the causes of this tragic termination of a feat of heroism and
+endurance such as has been rarely before achieved; and we turn with
+deep sorrow and admiration to dwell upon that noble display of
+faithful, patient courage which calmly awaited an early and
+unbefriended grave on the spot where the foot-prints of triumph
+were reasonably to have been expected.
+
+We all share in your grief; and would fain hope that this may
+somewhat lessen its bitterness to you; but it must be a source of
+pride and comfort to you to remember that your son died having DONE
+his duty to his country and his companions. More than this no man
+can do, live he ever so long, and few there are who do so much.
+
+Permit me to subscribe myself a deep sympathiser with you in your
+affliction,
+
+J. EGERTON WARBURTON.
+
+The Major had been a candidate for the office of leader, but his
+conditions as to his second were objected to. The next letter is
+from a gentleman who had accompanied Major Warburton as second on
+some explorations from Adelaide. At Totnes I knew him when a boy.
+
+. . .
+
+Dorset Terrace, Adelaide.
+
+MY DEAR SIR,
+
+I truly sympathize with you in the loss you have met with in
+so heroic and superb a fellow as your son. I cannot read his
+journals without wishing that I had been with him, for his
+qualities as an explorer were perfect in my humble opinion. The
+news of his sad death has been a great blow to all of us, and we
+sincerely feel for you in your affliction. But though dead in the
+flesh, the brave spirit of your son will stand emblazoned on the
+pages of our country's history as one of those heroes who have died
+for the cause in which he was engaged, in the flush of victory,
+cheerfully fulfilling his duties to the last.
+
+I cannot believe that Wright and Brahe ever returned to Cooper's
+Creek. If they had done so a stockman so well experienced in
+tracking as Wright must be, would have detected the presence of
+signs that might escape the eye of one less practised; for it is
+ascertained now that the stores had been removed about the time
+that Brahe left, and before, as they say, they returned in company.
+
+I also believe that, had Burke taken his companions' advice, and
+followed down Brahe's tracks, they would have been saved, for it is
+well known to all travellers that animals will feel cheered in
+following the footsteps of their late associates; but to attempt to
+force his party to explore new country when a well-known route was
+open to him was little short of madness. I have not patience to
+criticize Wright and Brahe's conduct. If Brahe had even left more
+stores, clothing especially, we should have had the pleasure of
+welcoming the explorers home.
+
+But God's wise providence knows what is best, and in saying, His
+will be done, I pray that He may comfort you and yours in this
+great bereavement. Mrs. B. and my daughter unite with me in kindest
+regards, and believe me to be as ever,
+
+My dear sir,
+
+Your sincere friend,
+
+ARTHUR JOHN BAKER.
+
+. . .
+
+FROM P.A. JENNINGS, ESQUIRE, ST. ARNAUD, VICTORIA.
+
+St. Arnaud, December 15th, 1861.
+
+MY DEAR SIR,
+
+I did not like to intrude upon your sorrow before; but I
+feel desirous of now testifying the sympathy of myself and friends
+at St. Arnaud with you under your heavy affliction. I had the
+pleasure of forming an intimacy with your lamented and gallant son
+during his stay here; an intimacy which soon ripened into a true
+friendship.
+
+It was in the year 1858, from March to July, that your son stopped
+in this vicinity, as the promoter of the survey of this town. I was
+thrown much into his company, and soon learned to appreciate his
+amiable and noble disposition. My mother and sisters, who also
+found pleasure in his society, had the deepest regard and
+admiration for him; and the expedition in which he was engaged
+therefore possessed an unusual interest for us.
+
+I assure you I can hardly find words to express our feelings, at
+the thought of his fate, and the base desertion of Burke and
+himself by those who should have endeavoured to sustain them. I had
+the most profound confidence in your son's ability as an explorer,
+knowing well the varied nature of his scientific attainments, his
+great practical knowledge of bush life, and the clear common sense
+which was his leading characteristic. Many a time we have talked
+about him; and every time we mentioned his name the same feeling of
+assurance in his safe return was always expressed, even to the
+last. Such was our confidence in him. A week before the sad tidings
+of his death reached Melbourne, I had a conversation with Mr.
+Byerly, whom I then met accidentally, and who had just returned
+from Queensland. Our conversation reverted to your son, and Mr.
+Byerly coincided with me in my faith in him, but remarked that all
+his exertions could be of little avail if not properly supported.
+Mr. Byerly had at first expressed a fear that the party HAD BEEN
+ALLOWED TO PERISH through the remissness of those whose duty it
+should have been to use every possible means to rescue them in the
+proper time. His words were, unfortunately, prophetic.
+
+I know, my dear sir, that almost anything like consolation for you
+now must come from other than man, but I could not help saying
+these few words to you; and I know that no persons unconnected by
+blood with your family, and enjoying such brief personal
+acquaintance with your son as myself; and mother and sisters, can
+be more sincerely or deeply moved at the harrowing record of his
+untimely fate. Indeed, it has cast a gloom over every one; and the
+hardest heart could not but be affected by such a noble spectacle
+as the last days of his glorious life present.
+
+It is proposed here to erect an obelisk to his memory, and I am
+about to get one of the streets named after him. I cannot commit
+myself to write further on the subject, but will conclude by
+subscribing myself,
+
+Yours, ever faithfully,
+
+P.A. JENNINGS.
+
+W. Wills, Esquire, M.D.
+
+. . .
+
+FROM DR. MUELLER.
+
+December 11th, 1861.
+
+MY DEAR DOCTOR,
+
+His Excellency informed me by note last night that Mr. Heales thinks
+to leave the consideration of everything connected with the great
+and glorious enterprise of your son and Mr. Burke, to the
+Commission, which Mr. Heales will probably have installed before
+leaving office.
+
+His Excellency adds, that every thought shall be given, that the
+family who immortalized their name by the work of your lamented son
+shall not be forgotten. I hope to be in town to-morrow, and will do
+myself the pleasure of calling on you.
+
+Very regardfully yours,
+
+FERD. MUELLER.
+
+. . .
+
+The Melbourne Advertiser, of December the 4th, 1861, contained
+the following leading paragraph:
+
+It is the intention of Mr. O'Shanassy to place a sum of 5000 pounds
+on the Estimates towards the erection of a national monument to
+Burke and Wills, and it is believed a like amount will be raised by
+public subscription in various parts of the colony; so that the
+aggregate amount will enable us to raise a memorial worthy of
+Victoria, and worthy of the heroes whom we design to honour. This
+is as it should be. Burke and Wills achieved a splendid exploit:
+their lives were the forfeit of their daring; and we owe it to
+their reputation, as well as to our own character, to preserve a
+durable record of their great achievement, and to signalize to
+after-ages our admiration of its simple grandeur, and our gratitude
+to the brave men who accomplished it. A time will come when a belt
+of settlements will connect the shores of Port Phillip with those
+of the Gulf of Carpentaria; when, on the banks of the Albert or of
+the Flinders, a populous city will arise, and will constitute the
+entrepot of our commerce with the Indies; and when beaten roads
+will traverse the interior, and a line of electric telegraph will
+bisect the continent. The happy valley of Prince Rasselas was not
+more verdant or more fertile than much of the country passed
+through by the explorers, whose loss we deplore; and it is certain
+that these beautiful solitudes will be rapidly occupied by the
+flocks and herds of the squatter. Agricultural settlements will
+follow; towns and villages will be established, gold-fields
+probably discovered, and waves of population will overflow and will
+fertilize vast tracts of country which we have hitherto concluded
+to be a sterile desert. These events will owe their initiation to
+the adventurous pioneers who first crossed the continent from sea
+to sea. Theirs was the arduous effort; theirs the courage,
+endurance, and sustaining hope; theirs the conflict with danger and
+the great triumph over difficulties; theirs the agony of a
+lingering death, and theirs the mournful glory of a martyr's crown.
+Defrauded, as it were, of the honours which would have rewarded
+them had they lived to receive the congratulations they had earned,
+it becomes the melancholy duty of their fellow-citizens to
+perpetuate the memory of Burke and Wills by a monument which shall
+testify to their worth and our munificence.
+
+. . .
+
+FROM DR. MUELLER.
+
+Melbourne, December 21st, 1861.
+
+MY VERY DEAR DOCTOR,
+
+I need not assure you that I shall be but too happy to render
+you any services within my power, and especially such as are
+connected with doing justice to your poor and great son.
+
+Having been duly authorized by you to secure the pistol of your
+late son, I will take an early opportunity to claim it for you and
+bring it to your son Thomas. I will also very gladly do what I can
+in restoring to you any other property I may hear of as belonging
+to your lamented son William. As soon as Professor Neumayer
+returns, we can learn with exactness what instruments were your
+son's. I will also inquire about the telescope. I believe I forgot
+mentioning to you, that it would be a source of the highest
+gratification to me to call some new plant by the name of the
+family, who claim as their own, one of now imperishable fame. But I
+will not be unmindful that, in offering an additional tribute,
+humble as it is, to your son's memory, it will be necessary to
+select, for the Willsia, a plant as noble in the Australian flora
+as the young savant himself who sacrificed his life in
+accomplishing a great national and never-to-be-forgotten
+enterprise.
+
+Trusting, my dear and highly valued friend, that the greatness of
+the deed will, to a certain extent, alleviate your grief and sorrow
+for an irreparable loss, and that Providence may spare you long in
+health and happiness, for your family.
+
+I remain,
+
+Your faithfully attached,
+
+FERD. MUELLER.
+
+W. Wills, Esquire, M.D.
+
+. . .
+
+Melbourne Botanical Gardens, January 5th, 1862.
+
+MY DEAR DR. WILLS,
+
+It affords me a melancholy satisfaction that the humble
+tribute which I wish to pay to the memory of your lamented son, in
+attaching his name to the enclosed plant, elicited such kind
+recognition from yourself. I need not assure you that I shall
+continue to maintain, as I have done on all previous occasions,
+that only by the skilful guidance and scientific talents of your
+unfortunate son, the great geographic success is achieved, which he
+sealed with his heroic death.
+
+We can only now deeply deplore the loss of SUCH a man, and award
+that honour to his memory which his great exploit for ever merits.
+
+With the deepest sympathy for you, ever dear and respected friend,
+
+Yours,
+
+FERD. MUELLER.
+
+The plant is thus registered in the Fragmenta Phytographiae
+Australiae:--
+
+EREMOPHILA WILLSII:
+
+Speciem Eremophilae Goodwinii (F. M. Report on the Plants
+of Babble’s Expedition, page 17) propinquam tesqua Australiae
+centralis ornantem, elegi ut botanicis recordarem gloriam nunquam
+obliviscendam intrepidi et ingeniosi sed infelicissimi Gulielmi
+Wills, qui primo terram Australiae continentalem a litore ad litus
+peragravit, sua morte praecocissima in tacito eremo triumphum
+aeternum agens. [Footnote: I have chosen a species of Eremophila
+resembling Goodwin's, which adorns the deserts of central
+Australia, to record by botany the glory never to be forgotten of
+the intrepid and talented, but most unfortunate, William Wills, who
+was the first to traverse the continent of Australia from shore to
+shore, winning for himself, by his too early death in the silent
+wilderness, an eternal triumph.]
+
+FROM DR. MUELLER.
+
+June 6th, 1862.
+
+DEAR DR. WILLS,
+
+Once more I wish you a most cordial goodbye, and trust that in the
+circle of your family you will feel some consolation for the
+dreadful bereavement which has befallen you in the loss of your
+son. May it alleviate your affliction to some small extent, to
+remember that your son has gained by the sacrifice of his precious
+life a world-wide fame, and an appreciation which will remain
+unobliterated throughout all ages.
+
+With the deepest solicitude for your health and happiness, I
+remain, my very dear Dr. Wills,
+
+Your attached friend,
+
+FERD. MUELLER.
+
+. . .
+
+At an earlier period, the Municipal Council of Ballaarat East
+paid me the compliment of the subjoined address:--
+
+TO W. WILLS, ESQUIRE, M.D.
+
+Council Chamber, Ballaarat East, November 7th, 1861.
+
+SIR,
+
+The Municipal Council of Ballaarat East, for itself and on behalf of
+the native community of this district, with feelings of the deepest
+sorrow and commiseration, beg leave to sympathize with you in the
+most severe and irreparable bereavement which you are so
+unfortunately called upon to bear in the loss of your worthy and
+devoted son, Mr. William John Wills. It would however hope that all
+possible consolation will be yours in the knowledge of his having
+nobly and successfully accomplished his mission, the benefits of
+which cannot be too highly appreciated by the whole of the
+inhabitants of the Australian Colonies; and which must secure to
+his future memory, under the unfortunate circumstances by which he
+was sacrificed, not only honour and fame, but the sympathy, love,
+and respect of his fellow-men in all parts of Her Majesty's
+dominions, and in every civilized country throughout the world.
+These considerations the Council trusts you will endeavour to bring
+to your aid in overcoming the intense grief with which you must be
+afflicted.
+
+I am, sir,
+
+In the most heartfelt sorrow,
+
+Yours very truly,
+
+W.B. RODIER,
+
+TOWN CLERK.
+
+. . .
+
+A proclamation in a supplement to one of the Melbourne Gazettes,
+towards the end of November, announced that the Governor, with the
+advice of the Executive Council, had directed that the portions of
+Main-street, Ballaarat East, lying between the Yarrowee River and
+Princess Street, shall hereafter be designated Wills Street, in
+memory of the companion of Burke.
+
+The two following letters, written by Devonians settled in
+Victoria, appeared in the Totnes Weekly Times:--
+
+Batesford, Geelong, 25th November, 1861.
+
+DEAR SIR,
+
+I have sent you by this mail the sad history of poor Burke
+and Wills, which I am sure will be read with painful interest by all
+your fellow-townsmen. The Melbourne papers have been very severe on
+the Exploration Committee, and it was my intention to have sent you
+copies of the Argus, from 4th to 9th November, but they cannot now
+be procured at any price. My brother will lend you his, if you
+desire it.
+
+Nothing that has occurred here for many years has thrown such a
+gloom over the whole of the Australian Colonies. We are generally,
+perhaps, a cold, unfeeling people, but there are few whose hearts
+have not been touched by this sad event.
+
+It is scarcely possible that you, accustomed as you are to the
+green pastures, the shady lanes, and crystal springs of dear old
+Devon, can realize to the full extent the sickening hardships they
+had to endure, or the cruel disappointment under which even they at
+last gave way. I cannot conceive a situation more heartrending than
+theirs must have been on their return to Cooper's Creek, to find
+the depot abandoned. They had succeeded in accomplishing the
+glorious feat which so many brave men had tried in vain to
+accomplish; they had endured hardships which might make the
+stoutest heart quail; they had returned alive, but footsore, worn
+out and in rags, to where they might have hoped for help and
+succour; they were on their way to where honour and glory, well and
+nobly earned, awaited them; and now they must lie down in the
+dreary wilds of an almost unknown country, and die that most
+horrible of all deaths, starvation, They must have felt, too, that,
+worse than even this death itself, the fruits of their labours
+would, in all probability, perish with them, their fate remain
+unknown, and the glorious page of the world's history which they
+would have written would be buried in oblivion, and all this--ALL
+this because
+
+    'Some one had blundered.'
+
+It has been decided that the remains are to be brought to Melbourne
+and have a public funeral. Monuments are also to be erected to the
+memory of the brave fellows:--
+
+    "These come too late, and almost mock whom they are intended
+    to honour."
+
+Poor Wills! you will remember him as a boy. It has occurred to
+me that Totnes may wish in some way to perpetuate the memory of one
+who perished so young and with such honour in a noble cause. Should
+it be so, I have asked my brother to be there with something from
+me. Every good man must deeply regret his loss, and sincerely
+sympathize with his relatives and friends.
+
+    Your hero has passed to no ignoble grave;
+    He died not ere a deathless fame was won;
+    And earth must count amongst her true and brave,
+    The brave and patient Wills, Devonia's son.
+
+I am, dear Sir,
+
+Yours truly,
+
+ROBT. WATSON.
+
+To the Editor of the Totnes Times.
+
+. . .
+
+TO THE EDITOR OF THE TOTNES WEEKLY TIMES.
+
+Melbourne, November 26, 1861.
+
+By this mail, I have sent you the public journals of this city,
+containing detailed accounts of the Exploring Expedition,
+despatched hence on the 20th August last, to find its way to and
+return from the Gulf of Carpentaria. Only one of the party has
+succeeded in accomplishing this unparalleled undertaking, three
+having fallen victims to hunger and disease. R. O'Hara Burke was
+the leader of the Expedition, and W.J. Wills, a native of Totnes,
+and son of a physician from your locality, was the second in
+command, observer and astronomer. The Expedition had visited the
+Gulf, and had returned to Cooper's Creek, where a depot had been
+formed, but unfortunately broken up only six hours before the
+return of the weary travellers. Their disappointment at finding
+such to be the case, you must gather from Wills's journal, which
+was the best kept of the party, and is replete with information of
+the country through which they passed. To Mr. Wills, senior, the
+loss of his favourite son is a sad blow, under such distressing
+circumstances; yet, amid all, young Wills was full of spirit to the
+last, and his final entry in his journal must have been made just
+six hours before he breathed his last. For him and for them, the
+colonists in Australia have shed tears of sorrow, and the
+Government have given instructions that their remains are to be
+brought to the city, and interred with all the pomp and solemnity
+befitting such an occasion. A sum of money is voted by Parliament
+to mark specially the event by erecting an obelisk in some
+conspicuous part of the city, most probably in face of one of our
+Parliament Houses. A number of Devonians, however, have resolved to
+subscribe, and with the consent of the municipal authorities, wish
+to mark the event more especially in his native town; and it is
+thought the Plains, at Totnes, is a suitable place for the erection
+of such a monument. To that end, subscription lists will be opened
+in our principal towns, and by next mail I hope to report that
+satisfactory progress is being made. The school where he was
+educated (Ashburton), conducted, too, by a Totnes man, Mr. Paige,
+has not been forgotten; and as there are schoolfellows of Wills's
+in this colony, they also intend bearing testimony to his worth by
+placing a tablet, with the consent of the trustees, in the Grammar
+School of St. Andrew's. None more worthy exists in that ancient
+hall of learning.
+
+In conclusion, I would just remark that the continent has been
+traversed from north to south, but there is yet the important feat
+of crossing from east to west. For whom is this wreath reserved? Is
+it to be won by a Totnes or an Ashburton man, or one from this
+country? Time will decide.
+
+I remain,
+
+Yours truly,
+
+JOHN LAVINGTON EVANS.
+
+. . .
+
+A correspondent to the Bendigo Advertiser concluded a long
+letter with the subjoined paragraph:--
+
+Poor Wills, the martyr, whose history of the journey is all that
+is left to us, is deserving of a nation's tears: his youth--his
+enduring patience--his evenness of temper, which must have been
+sorely tried--his lively disposition even in extremities--his
+devotion to his leader--all tend to stamp him as the real
+master-mind of the expedition, and as such let Victoria be justly
+proud of him--let no false delicacy keep the memory of the noble
+youth from the pinnacle it is so justly entitled to.
+
+. . .
+
+The Mayor of Totnes, J. Derry, Esquire, in compliance with
+a requisition from many of the principal inhabitants, convened a
+meeting at the Guildhall on the 31st of January, 1862, which was
+most numerously attended. Eloquent speeches were made, extracts
+from the letters of Mr. Watson, and Mr. Lavington Evans, were read,
+and the following resolutions were unanimously passed:
+
+1. That this Meeting is of opinion that a Memorial should be
+erected in Totnes to the late Mr. William John Wills, who perished
+at Cooper's Creek on his homeward journey, after, with three
+others, having for the first time successfully crossed the great
+Island Continent of Australia.
+
+Perhaps when the subscriptions were received they would be able to
+decide what form the memorial should assume. It had been suggested
+that a tablet should be placed in the church, but he, Mr. Cuming,
+the mover, rather demurred to this: the church would not be a
+conspicuous place for it; and as many would subscribe who did not
+attend the parish church, he thought the Plains, or some other
+public site, should be chosen, but it would be well to leave this
+matter for the present an open question.
+
+2. That a committee be now formed to solicit subscriptions for the
+purpose of carrying into effect the last resolution, and that such
+committee consist of the following gentlemen:--The Mayor, Messrs.
+Bentall, Kellock, Cuming, Presswell, Heath, Windeatt, Watson,
+Michelmore, Condy, Clarke, Ough, Endle; with power to add to their
+number.
+
+3. That as soon as the subscription list is completed, and the
+Devonshire men resident in the colony have communicated their
+wishes and intentions to the committee, according to the
+intimations expressed by them, the committee be requested to call a
+meeting of the subscribers to decide on the character of the
+memorial to be erected.
+
+The subscriptions at Totnes have been very liberal, and are still
+open. Mr. Watson and his family contributed most liberally. The
+Duke of Somerset gave ten pounds. Each of the members, Admiral
+Mitchell, and various others five pounds; but the character of the
+monument has not yet been decided on. At Ashburton Grammar School a
+memorial has been erected, Mr. Lavington Evans and his brother
+contributing ten pounds from Australia.
+
+At the annual meeting of the Royal Geographical Society of London,
+held on the 26th of May, 1862, Lord Ashburton awarded the founder's
+Gold Medal to the representative of the late Robert O'Hara Burke,
+and a gold watch to King. These were handed to his Grace the Duke
+of Newcastle, who attended in his public capacity as Secretary of
+State for the Colonies, and undertook to deliver them to the
+respective parties, with many justly eulogistic observations. Lord
+Ashburton read a paper on the progress of geographical science, and
+Sir R. Murchison, in the course of a notice on Australia, suggested
+that that portion which had been explored by Mr. Burke should be
+hereafter called Burke's Land. But it so happened that my son's
+name was neither mentioned nor alluded to in the published
+proceedings.
+
+At the first meeting of the Society for the present season, held on
+the 10th November, 1862, and at which I was present, Sir Roderick
+Murchison introduced the subject of Australian exploration in his
+address, in a manner quite unexpected by me. The next day I
+received the following official communication, which embodied the
+substance of what he had said, and nearly in the same words.
+
+TO DR. WILLS.
+
+15, Whitehall Place, 11th November, 1862.
+
+SIR,
+
+At the first meeting of the Council of this Society, during this
+session, I brought under the consideration of my associates, a
+statement of the distinguished botanist, Dr. Mueller, of Victoria,
+to the effect that the friends of your deceased son were
+dissatisfied on finding that Mr. Burke, the leader of the late
+expedition to the Gulf of Carpentaria, had received a gold medal,
+and that Mr. King had received a watch, whilst no testimonial of
+the services of Mr. Wills had been presented on the part of the
+Royal Geographical Society.
+
+Permit me to assure you that when the award of the gold medal was
+made, every member of the Council, as well as myself, who proposed
+it, felt that to your son alone was due the determination of all
+the geographical points, by his astronomical observations, and that
+therefore the honour should be shared between the leader and
+himself.
+
+Continuing to entertain the same sentiments, and regretting that
+the rule of the society prevented them from granting more than one
+gold medal for an expedition, the Council have authorized me to
+offer this explanation to you, in order that it may be preserved as
+a memorial.
+
+As nothing less than a medal could have been adjudicated to so good
+a geographer as your lamented son, so I trust that this
+explanation, and the words, which fell from me last evening at the
+general meeting, in eulogizing his valuable services, may prove
+satisfactory. Rely upon it, that his merits will never be forgotten
+by my associates and myself.
+
+I have the honour to be, Sir,
+
+Your very faithful servant,
+
+(Signed) RODERICK MURCHISON,
+
+President of the Royal Geographical Society.
+
+P.S. This letter shall be printed in the Proceedings of the
+Society.
+
+. . .
+
+I replied thus:--
+
+TO SIR RODERICK MURCHISON,
+
+President of the Royal Geographical Society.
+
+27 Arundel Street, Strand, 18th November, 1862.
+
+SIR,
+
+It was with much satisfaction that I received your letter of
+the 11th instant, acknowledging the appreciation by yourself and the
+Council of the Royal Geographical Society, of the merits of my
+lamented son in the Burke and Wills Exploring Expedition in
+Australia. That he, and he alone, was the only one who had the
+least pretension to the title of geographer, is manifest;
+--therefore it is not strange that Dr. Mueller and my friends in
+Australia should feel somewhat annoyed in the matter of the Medal.
+
+I am not surprised that it should have so happened under the
+circumstances. The motto 'Sic vos non vobis', would be appropriate
+for him in memoriam. The clothes, for the want of which he died, so
+amply provided by himself, were worn by others; the land discovered
+has been called exclusively by another name;--the Gold Medal should
+follow.
+
+Still I am grateful for your well-expressed remarks at the meeting
+of the 10th instant, and for this written testimonial of the 11th,
+from yourself and the Council.
+
+I have the honour to be,
+
+Sir Roderick,
+
+Your obedient and humble servant,
+
+WILLIAM WILLS,
+
+Father of the late Explorer.
+
+. . .
+
+Several poetical tributes in honour of the adventurous dead
+were published in Victoria. I select one which appeared in the
+Melbourne Herald, on the 1st of December, 1861.
+
+          THE LOST EXPLORERS.
+
+    'Tis but a little lapse of time
+    Since they passed from out our sight;
+    Their hearts with hope were buoyant,
+    And each face with gladness bright;
+    And many were the fervent prayers
+    That in safety they might go,
+    Through a hidden land to the distant strand
+    Where ocean billows flow.
+
+    Theirs was no gay adventure
+    In some softly pleasant place:
+    They left home's quiet sanctitude
+    To meet a hostile race;
+    To carve a passage through the land,
+    That down its channels wide,
+    With a joyous start might flow a part
+    Of the restless human tide.
+
+    Across bleak stony deserts,
+    Through dense scrub and tangled brier,
+    They passed with hearts undaunted,
+    And with steps that would not tire;
+    Through morass and flooding waters,
+    Undismayed by toil and fears,
+    At their chief's command, with salient hand,
+    Fought on the pioneers.
+
+    Battled with cold and famine,
+    Battled with fiery heat,
+    Battled o'er rocks till a trail of blood
+    Was left by their wounded feet;
+    Battled when death with his icy hand
+    Struck down the body of Gray;--
+    'Onward!' they said, as they buried the dead,
+    And went on their gloomy way.
+
+    Now gather round your household hearths,
+    Your children by your knee;
+    'Tis well that they should understand
+    This tale of misery.
+    'Tis well that they should know the names
+    Of those whose toil is o'er;
+    Whose coming feet, we shall run to meet
+    With a welcome NEVER MORE.
+
+    Tell how these modern martyrs,
+    In the strength and pride of men,
+    Went out into the wilderness
+    And came not back again;
+    How they battled bravely onward,
+    For a nobler prize than thrones,
+    And how they lay, in the glaring day,
+    With the sun to bleach their bones.
+
+    Tell how their poor hearts held them up
+    Till victory was won;
+    How with fainting steps they journeyed back,
+    The great achievement done.
+    But of their anguish who may know,
+    Save God, who heard each groan,
+    When they saw no face at the trysting place,
+    And found themselves alone!
+
+    Left alone with gaunt starvation,
+    And its sickly brood of ills,
+    Stood Burke the sanguine, hopeful King,
+    And the hero-hearted Wills;
+    Sad and weary stood the pioneers,
+    With no hand to give relief,
+    And so each day winged on its way
+    As a dark embodied grief.
+
+    Who can guess the depth of agony--
+    That no mortal tongue may tell--
+    Which each felt when slowly dying
+    At the brink of hope's dry well!
+    Deserted, famished garmentless,
+    No voice of friendship nigh,
+    With loving care, to breathe a prayer
+    When they settled down to die.
+
+    Yet God be praised, that one dear life
+    Was held within His hand,
+    And saved, the only rescued one
+    Of that devoted band
+    Who went into the wilderness,
+    In the strength and pride of men:
+    The goal was won and their task was done,
+    But they came not back again.
+
+    We cannot break their calm, grand sleep,
+    By fond endearing cries;
+    We cannot smile them back again,
+    However bright our eyes;
+    But we may lowly bend the head,
+    Though not asham'd of the tears
+    We sadly shed, for the lowly dead,
+    Cut down in their bloom of years.
+
+    And laurel garlands, greener
+    Than war's heroes ever bought
+    With the blood of slaughtered thousands,
+    Shall by loving hands be brought;
+    And sanctified by many prayers,
+    Laid gently in their grave,
+    That the coming race may know the place
+    Where sleep our martyr'd brave.
+
+--F.M. HUGHAN.
+
+. . .
+
+CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS.
+
+The narrative I have felt called upon to give to the public, founded
+on an unexaggerated statement of facts, with many of which no other
+person could have been so well acquainted, is now concluded,--with
+the natural anguish of a father for the loss of a son of whom he
+was justly proud, and who fell a victim to incapacity and
+negligence not his own. Still, I have no desire to claim merit for
+him to which he is not entitled, or to abstract an iota from what
+is justly due to others. The Report of the Royal Commission is to
+be found at full in the Appendix; unaccompanied necessarily by the
+mass of conflicting evidence, trustworthy, contradictory,
+misinterpreted or misunderstood, on which it was based. The members
+who composed that court were honourable gentlemen, who investigated
+patiently, and I have no doubt conscientiously. But there were many
+present, with myself, who witnessed the examinations, and wondered
+at some points of the verdict. We find the judgment most severe on
+the leader who sacrificed his life, and whose mistakes would have
+been less serious and fatal had his orders been obeyed. There is
+also a disposition to deal leniently with the far heavier errors
+and omissions of the Exploration Committee; and an unaccountable
+tendency to feel sympathy for Brahe, whose evidence left it
+difficult to decide whether stupidity, selfishness, or utter
+disregard of truth was his leading deficiency.
+
+It now only remains to sum up a brief retrospect of the active
+spirit of discovery set astir, and not likely to die away, as a
+sequel to the great Burke and Wills Expedition, for by that name it
+will continue to be known. We have already seen that the Victoria
+steamer, under Commander Norman, was sent round to the Gulf of
+Carpentaria to search for the missing explorers, had they reached
+that part of the coast; and to expedite and assist land parties in
+advancing, southwards, to their aid. Captain Norman suffered some
+delay by the unfortunate wreck of the Firefly, a trader, laden with
+horses, coals, and straw; and having on board Mr. Landsborough and
+party, who were to start from the Albert river, or thereabouts.
+This wreck occurred on the 4th September, 1861, on one of the group
+of islands to the north, called Sir Charles Hardy's Islands. On the
+7th, they were found by Commander Norman, and through his great
+personal exertions, ably seconded by his officers and crew, he got
+the ship off, with the greater part of the horses and coals, and
+nearly all the stores.
+
+On the 1st of October, they reached the mouth of the Albert. On the
+14th of the same month, Landsborough started for the head of that
+river, as far as it was navigable, in the Firefly, under the
+command of Lieutenant Woods of the Victoria; and on the 17th they
+were landed about twelve miles up the stream. It was past the
+middle of November before Mr. Landsborough resumed his onward
+course; and as his explorations had little to do with an endeavour
+to discover the tracks of the Victorian Expedition, although he
+gained much credit by his exertions, it is unnecessary to detail
+them more minutely here. I shall merely say that he followed a
+course south by east, skirting the country rather more to the
+westward than the track followed by previous explorers, and
+eventually reached Victoria.
+
+Mr. Walker, despatched overland from Queensland, reached the Gulf
+on the 7th of December, 1861; and reported that he had, on the 24th
+of November, found well-defined traces of three or four camels and
+one horse, undoubtedly belonging to the Victorian Expedition, and
+making their way down the Flinders. With his usual characteristic,
+he started again on the 11th of December. Mr. Walker, with his
+party, consisting chiefly of natives, did good service in his
+progress through Queensland; for when the report reached Melbourne,
+through Captain Norman, that he had discovered the tracks of the
+camels so near the sea, it furnished satisfactory evidence of the
+correctness of my son's journals, although the fatal news of his
+death and that of his commander had been long received. There were
+not wanting ungenerous cavillers to insinuate doubts that he and
+Burke had been at the Gulf. This inference they sought to establish
+from an expression in one of the few of Burke's notes preserved, to
+this effect: "28th March.--At the conclusion of report, it would be
+well to say that we reached the sea, but we could not obtain a view
+of the open ocean, although we made every effort to do so." At the
+extreme point they reached, about fifteen miles down the Flinders,
+the tide ebbed and flowed regularly, and the water was quite salt.
+The very simplicity of Mr. Burke's remark shows that it was made by
+a man not given to lying or deceit. Mr. Walker followed the return
+tracks for some distance, but lost them at about 20 degrees of
+south latitude, and then struck off direct east for the Queensland
+district, to inquire, and get further supplies for a new start. At
+Rockhampton he received the fatal intelligence which had been sent
+round by sea from Melbourne; and also the news of the discovery of
+King by the gallant Howitt, to whom all honour is due for his
+labours in the cause.
+
+But Mr. McKinlay, leader of the South Australian Expedition, of
+whom I have already spoken more than once, has performed the most
+extraordinary exploit of all, and has traversed by far the greatest
+quantity of new ground, but not in the direction originally
+intended by the government that sent him. Failing in finding the
+traces of Burke and his expedition, McKinlay took more to the north
+and north-west between the 120 and 140 degrees of eastern
+longitude. Yet from some floodings which my son, it will be
+remembered, pointed out in his journal as occurring from
+indications on trees, McKinlay changed his course to north and by
+east until he reached the Gulf of Carpentaria, and then to south
+and by east, and crossed to Queensland, returning from Rockhampton
+to Adelaide by water. A glance at the map will show the courses of
+these respective explorers sufficiently for general purposes. Thus
+Queensland, by some mysterious influences in its favour, has reaped
+the whole benefit of these explorations at the least apparent cost.
+The land discovered by the Burke and Wills Expedition, now named
+Burke's Land, has been handed over to Queensland by the Home
+Government, up to Cape York, on the extreme north, in Torres
+Straits. This vast continent, west of 140 degrees, in which the
+South Australian, and West Australian governments have so much
+interest, is, with the exception of Stuart's Line, quite
+unexplored.
+
+It has been a subject of congratulation by some, that the
+misadventures, or more properly speaking, the gross errors
+connected with the Victorian Expedition, have led to results that
+amply compensate for the loss sustained. It is truly painful to
+hear, and not very easy for those who are deeply interested, to
+believe this; and I think the majority of all readers will consider
+that these losses might have been easily avoided.
+
+The relatives of the sacrificed explorers have to mourn their fate,
+and the colony of Victoria has spent large sums of money, not for
+her own benefit, immediate or indirect, present or prospective.
+She, too, may exclaim "Sic vos non vobis." Lucky Queensland derives
+the benefit; her boundaries are extended to 140 degrees of east
+longitude. A great part of this country, formerly supposed to be of
+a doubtful nature, is now known to be the finest land in the
+Australias, capable of producing cereals, wines, and tropical
+fruits; also a vast extent of ground fitted for the growth of
+cotton. A source of unbounded wealth is thus opened to that
+fortunate young colony: coals had previously been discovered there.
+She is also better supplied with timber and forests than the more
+southern districts. Victoria, with her capital, Melbourne, will
+have to wait for the extension of railways, marking her position as
+the centre of commerce, and will in time reap her well-merited
+reward. Melbourne will always represent the metropolis of the
+various colonies of Australia.
+
+South Australia, so happy in her abundant produce of corn, wine,
+and mineral ores of copper and iron, is a most desirable colony,
+but a great portion of her interior being yet unexplored, her full
+capabilities cannot at present be estimated. There is no man more
+likely than John McKinlay, with his robust frame, his energy and
+activity, to carry out this great object, if the opportunity is
+supplied to him.
+
+The Australias altogether comprise a country capable of conferring
+happiness upon countless thousands of the Saxon race. Everything is
+to be found, if the right people only are selected. Let them
+comprise youth, vigorous health, temperate habits, persevering
+industry, and morals based on sound Christianity, and their success
+and advancement in life is as certain as anything can be pronounced
+in this world of uncertainty.
+
+While these pages are going through the press, the last mail from
+Melbourne informs us that Mr. Howitt was expected to arrive in that
+capital towards the middle of December, 1862, with the remains of
+Messrs. Burke and Wills. Arrangements are being made for a public
+interment of the most imposing character. If numbers can add to the
+effect, they are not likely to be wanting. Circulars have been
+officially addressed to nearly 250 public bodies and societies
+throughout the colony, inviting the different members to join in
+the ceremony. Replies have been received from by far the greater
+portion, stating their willingness and desire to join in this last
+testimony of respect for the lamented explorers. The monument, for
+which 5000 pounds has been voted by Government, is to be erected in
+the Reserve surrounding the Parliament House.
+
+
+
+APPENDICES.
+
+APPENDIX A.
+
+INSTRUCTIONS TO LEADER.
+
+Exploration Committee, Royal Society of Victoria, Melbourne, 18th
+August, 1860.
+
+SIR,
+
+I am directed by the Committee to convey to you the instructions
+and views which have been adopted in connection with the duties
+which devolve upon you as Leader of the party now organized to
+explore the interior of Australia.
+
+The Committee having decided on Cooper's Creek, of Sturt's, as the
+basis of your operations, request that you will proceed thither,
+form a depot of provisions and stores, and make arrangements for
+keeping open a communication in your rear to the Darling, if in
+your opinion advisable; and thence to Melbourne, so that you may be
+enabled to keep the Committee informed of your movements, and
+receive in return the assistance in stores and advice of which you
+may stand in need. Should you find that a better communication can
+be made by way of the South Australian Police Station, near Mount
+Serle, you will avail yourself of that means of writing to the
+Committee.
+
+In your route to Cooper's Creek, you will avail yourself of any
+opportunity that may present itself for examining and reporting on
+the character of the country east and west of the Darling.
+
+You will make arrangements for carrying the stores to a point
+opposite Mount McPherson, which seems to the Committee to be the
+best point of departure from this river for Cooper's Creek; and
+while the main body of the party is proceeding to that point you
+may have further opportunities of examining the country on either
+side of your route.
+
+In your further progress from Mount McPherson towards Cooper's
+Creek, the Committee also desires that you should make further
+detours to the right and left with the same object.
+
+The object of the Committee in directing you to Cooper's Creek, is,
+that you should explore the country intervening between it and
+Leichhardt's track, south of the Gulf of Carpentaria, avoiding, as
+far as practicable, Sturt's route on the west, and Gregory's, down
+the Victoria, on the east.
+
+To this object the Committee wishes you to devote your energies in
+the first instance; but should you determine the impracticability
+of this route you are desired to turn westward into the country
+recently discovered by Stuart, and connect his farthest point
+northward with Gregory's farthest Southern Exploration in 1856
+(Mount Wilson).
+
+In proceeding from Cooper's Creek to Stuart's Country, you may find
+the Salt Marshes an obstacle to the progress of the camels; if so,
+it is supposed you will be able to avoid these marshes by turning
+to the northward as far as Eyre's Creek, where there is permanent
+water, and going then westward to Stuart's Farthest.
+
+Should you, however, fail in connecting the two points of Stuart's
+and Gregory's Farthest, or should you ascertain that this space has
+been already traversed, you are requested if possible to connect
+your explorations with those of the younger Gregory, in the
+vicinity of Mount Gould, and thence you might proceed to Sharks'
+Bay, or down the River Murchison, to the settlements in Western
+Australia.
+
+This country would afford the means of recruiting the strength of
+your party, and you might, after a delay of five or six months, be
+enabled, with the knowledge of the country you shall have
+previously acquired, to return by a more direct route through South
+Australia to Melbourne.
+
+If you should, however, have been successful in connecting Stuart's
+with Gregory's farthest point in 1856 (Mount Wilson), and your
+party should be equal to the task, you would probably find it
+possible from thence to reach the country discovered by the younger
+Gregory.
+
+The Committee is fully aware of the difficulty of the country you
+are called on to traverse; and in giving you these instructions has
+placed these routes before you more as an indication of what it has
+been deemed desirable to have accomplished than as indicating any
+exact course for you to pursue.
+
+The Committee considers you will find a better and a safer guide in
+the natural features of the country through which you will have to
+pass. For all useful and practical purposes it will be better for
+you and the object of future settlement that you should follow the
+watercourses and the country yielding herbage, than pursue any
+route which the Committee might be able to sketch out from an
+imperfect map of Australia.
+
+The Committee intrusts you with the largest discretion as regards
+the forming of depots, and your movements generally, but request
+that you will mark your routes as permanently as possible, by
+leaving records, sowing seeds, building cairns, and marking trees
+at as many points as possible, consistently with your various other
+duties.
+
+With reference to financial subjects, you will be furnished with a
+letter of authority to give orders on the Treasurer for the payment
+of any stores or their transport, cattle, sheep, or horses you may
+require; and you will not fail to furnish the Treasurer from time
+to time with detailed accounts of the articles for which you have
+given such orders in payment.
+
+Each person of the party will be allowed to give authority for half
+of his salary being paid into any bank, or to any person he may
+appoint to receive the same; provided a certificate is forwarded
+from you to the effect that he has efficiently discharged his duty.
+
+The Committee requests that you will make arrangements for an exact
+account being taken of the stores and their expenditure by the
+person you place in charge of them.
+
+The Committee also requests that you would address all your
+communications on subjects connected with the exploration to the
+Honorary Secretary; and that all persons acting with you should
+forward their communications on the same subject through you.
+
+You will cause full reports to be furnished by your officers on any
+subject of interest, and forward them to Melbourne as often as may
+be practicable without retarding the progress of the expedition.
+
+The Committee has caused the inclosed set of instructions to be
+drawn up, having relation to each department of science; and you
+are requested to hand each of the gentlemen a copy of the part more
+particularly relating to his department.
+
+I have the honour to be, Sir,
+
+Your most obedient servant,
+
+(Signed) JOHN MACADAM, M.D.,
+
+Honorary Secretary, E.C., R.S.V.
+
+Robert O'Hara Burke, Esquire.
+
+Leader, Victorian Exploring Expedition.
+
+. . .
+
+APPENDIX B.
+
+VICTORIA: By the Grace of God, of the United Kingdom of
+Great Britain and Ireland Queen, Defender of the Faith.
+
+To our trusty and well-beloved The Honourable SIR THOMAS SIMSON
+PRATT, K.C.B., The Honourable SIR FRANCIS MURPHY, Speaker of our
+Legislative Assembly, The Honourable MATTHEW HERVEY, M.P., The
+Honourable JAMES FORESTER SULLIVAN, M.P., and EVELYN PITFIELD
+SHIRLEY STURT, Esquire, all of Melbourne, in the Colony of
+Victoria, GREETING.
+
+WHEREAS the Governor of our Colony of Victoria, with the advice of
+the Executive Council thereof, has deemed it expedient that a
+Commission should forthwith issue for the purpose of inquiring into
+all the circumstances connected with the sufferings and death of
+ROBERT O'HARA BURKE and WILLIAM JOHN WILLS, the Victorian
+Explorers: and WHEREAS it is desirable to ascertain the true causes
+of this lamentable result of the Expedition to the said ROBERT
+O'HARA BURKE and his companions; and especially to investigate the
+circumstances under which the depot at Cooper's Creek was abandoned
+by WILLIAM BRAHE and his party on the twenty-first day of April
+last; and to determine upon whom rests the grave responsibility of
+there not having been a sufficient supply of provisions and
+clothing secured for the recruiting of the Explorers on their
+return, and for their support until they could reach the
+settlements; and generally to inquire into the organization and
+conduct of the Expedition: also, with regard to the claims upon the
+Colony of the surviving members thereof, and of the relatives (if
+any) of the deceased members: NOW KNOW YE that we, reposing great
+trust and confidence in your integrity, knowledge, and ability,
+have authorized and appointed, and by these presents do authorize
+and appoint you, SIR THOMAS SIMSON PRATT, SIR FRANCIS MURPHY,
+MATTHEW HERVEY, JAMES FORESTER SULLIVAN, and EVELYN PITFIELD
+SHIRLEY STURT, to be Commissioners for the purpose aforesaid: and
+for the better effecting the purpose of this Commission, we do give
+and grant you power and authority to call before you such persons
+as you shall judge likely to afford you any information upon the
+subject of this Commission: and to inquire of and concerning the
+premises by all other lawful means and ways whatsoever: and this
+Commission shall continue in full force and virtue; and you the
+said Commissioners may, from time to time, and at every place or
+places, proceed in the execution thereof, and of every matter or
+thing therein contained, although the inquiry be not regularly
+continued from time to time by adjournment: and lastly, that you do
+report, as occasion may require, for the information of our
+Governor of our said Colony, under your hands and seals, all
+matters and things elicited by you during the inquiry under this
+Commission.
+
+SEAL OF THE COLONY OF VICTORIA.
+
+WITNESS our trusty and well-beloved SIR HENRY BARKLY, Knight
+Commander of the Most Noble Order of the Bath, Captain-General, and
+Governor-in-Chief of our Colony of Victoria, and Vice-Admiral of
+the same, at Melbourne, this twelfth day of November, One thousand
+eight hundred and sixty-one, and in the twenty-fifth year of our
+Reign.
+
+HENRY BARKLY.
+
+By His Excellency's command,
+
+(Signed) R. HEALES.
+
+. . .
+
+APPENDIX C.
+
+TO HIS EXCELLENCY SIR HENRY BARKLY, KNIGHT COMMANDER OF THE
+MOST HONOURABLE ORDER OF THE BATH, CAPTAIN-GENERAL AND
+GOVERNOR-IN-CHIEF OF THE COLONY OF VICTORIA, AND VICE-ADMIRAL OF
+THE SAME, ETC., ETC.
+
+MAY IT PLEASE YOUR EXCELLENCY:--
+
+In conformity with the terms of Her Majesty's commission, we
+have made inquiry into the circumstances connected with the
+sufferings and death of Robert O'Hara Burke and William John Wills,
+the Victorian explorers.
+
+We have endeavoured to ascertain the true causes of this lamentable
+result of the expedition, and have investigated the circumstances
+under which the depot at Cooper's Creek was abandoned by Mr.
+William Brahe. We have sought to determine upon whom rests the
+grave responsibility of there not having been a sufficient supply
+of provisions and clothing secured for the recruiting of the
+explorers on their return, and for their support until they could
+reach the settlements; and we have generally inquired into the
+organization and conduct of the expedition.
+
+Our investigations have been confined to the above matters, the
+Government having already taken into consideration the claims on
+the colony of the surviving members of the expedition, etc.
+
+We have examined all persons willing to give evidence who
+professed, or whom we supposed to possess, knowledge upon the
+various subjects of our inquiries: and we now, after mature
+consideration, submit to your Excellency the following Report:--
+
+The expedition, having been provided and equipped in the most
+ample and liberal manner, and having reached Menindie, on the
+Darling, without experiencing any difficulties, was most
+injudiciously divided at that point by Mr. Burke.
+
+It was an error of judgment on the part of Mr. Burke to appoint Mr.
+Wright to an important command in the expedition, without a
+previous personal knowledge of him; although, doubtless, a pressing
+urgency had arisen for the appointment, from the sudden
+resignations of Mr. Landells and Dr. Beckler.
+
+Mr. Burke evinced a far greater amount of zeal than prudence in
+finally departing from Cooper's Creek before the depot party had
+arrived from Menindie, and without having secured communication
+with the settled districts as he had been instructed to do; and, in
+undertaking so extended a journey with an insufficient supply of
+provisions, Mr. Burke was forced into the necessity of over-taxing
+the powers of his party, whose continuous and unremitting exertions
+resulted in the destruction of his animals, and the prostration of
+himself and his companions from fatigue and severe privation.
+
+The conduct of Mr. Wright appears to have been reprehensible in the
+highest degree. It is clear that Mr. Burke, on parting with him at
+Torowoto, relied on receiving his immediate and zealous support;
+and it seems extremely improbable that Mr. Wright could have
+misconstrued the intentions of his leader so far, as to suppose
+that he ever calculated for a moment on his remaining for any
+length of time on the Darling. Mr. Wright has failed to give any
+satisfactory explanation of the causes of his delay; and to that
+delay are mainly attributable the whole of the disasters of the
+expedition, with the exception of the death of Gray. The grave
+responsibility of not having left a larger supply of provisions,
+together with some clothing, in the cache, at Cooper's Creek, rests
+with Mr. Wright. Even had he been unable to convey stores to
+Cooper's Creek, he might have left them elsewhere, leaving notice
+at the depot of his having done so.
+
+The Exploration Committee, in overlooking the importance of the
+contents of Mr. Burke's despatch from Torowoto, and in not urging
+Mr. Wright's departure from the Darling, committed errors of a
+serious nature. A means of knowledge of the delay of the party at
+Menindie was in the possession of the Committee, not indeed by
+direct communication to that effect, but through the receipt of
+letters from Drs. Becker and Beckler at various dates up to the end
+of November,--without, however, awakening the Committee to a sense
+of the vital importance of Mr. Burke's request in that despatch
+that he should "be soon followed up,"--or to a consideration of the
+disastrous consequences which would be likely to result, and did
+unfortunately result, from the fatal inactivity and idling of Mr.
+Wright and his party on the Darling.
+
+The conduct of Mr. Brahe in retiring from his position at the depot
+before he was rejoined by his commander, or relieved from the
+Darling, may be deserving of considerable censure; but we are of
+opinion that a responsibility far beyond his expectations devolved
+upon him; and it must be borne in mind that, with the assurance of
+his leader, and his own conviction, he might each day expect to be
+relieved by Mr. Wright, he still held his post for four months and
+five days, and that only when pressed by the appeals of a comrade
+sickening even to death, as was subsequently proved, his powers of
+endurance gave way, and he retired from the position which could
+alone afford succour to the weary explorers should they return by
+that route. His decision was most unfortunate; but we believe he
+acted from a conscientious desire to discharge his duty, and we are
+confident that the painful reflection that twenty-four hours'
+further perseverance, would have made him the rescuer of the
+explorers, and gained for himself the praise and approbation of
+all, must be of itself an agonizing thought, without the addition
+of censure he might feel himself undeserving of.
+
+It does not appear that Mr. Burke kept any regular journal, or that
+he gave written instructions to his officers. Had he performed
+these essential portions of the duties of a leader, many of the
+calamities of the expedition might have been averted, and little or
+no room would have been left for doubt in judging the conduct of
+those subordinates who pleaded unsatisfactory and contradictory
+verbal orders and statements.
+
+We cannot too deeply deplore the lamentable result of an
+expedition, undertaken at so great a cost to the colony; but, while
+we regret the absence of a systematic plan of operations on the
+part of the leader, we desire to express our admiration of his
+gallantry and daring, as well as of the fidelity of his brave
+coadjutor, Mr. Wills, and their more fortunate and enduring
+associate, Mr. King; and we would record our feelings of deep
+sympathy with the deplorable sufferings and untimely deaths of Mr.
+Burke and his fallen comrades.
+
+T.S. PRATT, CHAIRMAN,
+
+MATTHEW HERVEY,
+
+E.P.S. STURT,
+
+FRANCIS MURPHY,
+
+J.F. SULLIVAN.
+
+
+
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Successful Exploration Through the
+Interior of Australia, by William John Wills
+
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