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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Tramp Abroad, by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Tramp Abroad
+       Part 2
+
+Author: Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
+
+Release Date: March 1994 [EBook #5783]
+Posting Date: June 3, 2009
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A TRAMP ABROAD ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Anonymous Volunteers, John Greenman and David Widger
+
+
+
+
+
+
+A TRAMP ABROAD, Part 2
+
+By Mark Twain
+
+(Samuel L. Clemens)
+
+First published in 1880
+
+Illustrations taken from an 1880 First Edition
+
+ * * * * * *
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS:
+
+
+     1.   PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR
+     2.   TITIAN'S MOSES
+     3.   THE AUTHOR'S MEMORIES
+     32.  FRENCH CALM
+     33.  THE CHALLENGE ACCEPTED
+     34.  A SEARCH
+     35.  HE SWOONED PONDEROUSLY
+     36.  I ROLLED HIM OVER
+     37.  THE ONE I HIRED
+     36.  THE MARCH TO THE FIELD
+     39.  THE POST OF DANGER
+     40.  THE RECONCILIATION
+     41.  AN OBJECT OF ADMIRATION
+     42.  WAGNER
+     43.  RAGING
+     44.  ROARING
+     45.  SHRIEKING
+     46.  A CUSTOMARY THING
+     47.  ONE OF THE "REST"
+     48.  A CONTRIBUTION BOX
+     49.  CONSPICUOUS
+     50.  TAIL PIECE
+     51.  ONLY A SHRIEK
+     52.  "HE ONLY CRY"
+     53.  LATE COMERS CARED FOR
+     54.  EVIDENTLY DREAMING
+     55.  "TURN ON MORE RAIN"
+     56.  HARRIS ATTENDING THE OPERA
+     57.  PAINTING MY GREAT PICTURE
+     58.  OUR START
+     59.  AN UNKNOWN COSTUME
+     60.  THE TOWER
+     61.  SLOW BUT SURE
+     62.  THE ROBBER CHIEF
+     63.  AN HONEST MAN
+     64.  THE TOWN BY NIGHT
+     65.  GENERATIONS OF BAREFEET
+     66.  OUR BEDROOM
+     67.  PRACTICING
+     68.  PAWING AROUND
+     69.  A NIGHT'S WORK
+     70.  LEAVING HEILBRONN
+     71.  THE CAPTAIN
+     72.  WAITING FOR THE TRAIN
+
+
+
+CONTENTS:
+
+CHAPTER VIII The Great French Duel--Mistaken Notions--Outbreak in the
+French Assembly--Calmness of M Gambetta--I Volunteer as Second--Drawing
+up a Will--The Challenge and its Acceptance--Difficulty in Selection
+of Weapons--Deciding on Distance--M. Gambetta's Firmness--Arranging
+Details--Hiring Hearses--How it was Kept from the Press--March to the
+Field--The Post of Danger--The Duel--The Result--General Rejoicings--The
+only One Hurt--A Firm Resolution
+
+CHAPTER IX At the Theatre--German Ideal--At the Opera--The
+Orchestra--Howlings and Wailings--A Curious Play--One Season of
+Rest--The Wedding Chorus--Germans fond of the Opera--Funerals Needed
+--A Private Party--What I Overheard--A Gentle Girl--A
+Contribution--box--Unpleasantly Conspicuous
+
+CHAPTER X Four Hours with Wagner--A Wonderful Singer, Once--" Only a
+Shriek"--An Ancient Vocalist--"He Only Cry"--Emotional Germans--A
+Wise Custom--Late Comers Rebuked--Heard to the Last--No Interruptions
+Allowed--A Royal Audience--An Eccentric King--Real Rain and More of
+It--Immense Success--"Encore! Encore!"--Magnanimity of the King
+
+CHAPTER XI Lessons in Art--My Great Picture of Heidelberg Castle--Its
+Effect in the Exhibition--Mistaken for a Turner--A Studio--Waiting
+for Orders--A Tramp Decided On--The Start for Heilbronn--Our Walking
+Dress--"Pleasant march to you"--We Take the Rail--German People on
+Board--Not Understood--Speak only German and English--Wimpfen--A Funny
+Tower--Dinner in the Garden--Vigorous Tramping--Ride in a Peasant's
+Cart--A Famous Room
+
+CHAPTER XII The Rathhaus--An Old Robber Knight, Gotz Von
+Berlichingen--His Famous Deeds--The Square Tower--A Curious old
+Church--A Gay Turn--out--A Legend--The Wives' Treasures--A Model
+Waiter--A Miracle Performed--An Old Town--The Worn Stones
+
+CHAPTER XIII Early to Bed--Lonesome--Nervous Excitement--The Room We
+Occupied--Disturbed by a Mouse--Grow Desperate--The Old Remedy--A Shoe
+Thrown--Result--Hopelessly Awake--An Attempt to Dress--A Cruise in the
+Dark--Crawling on the Floor--A General Smash-up--Forty-seven Miles'
+Travel
+
+CHAPTER XIV A Famous Turn--out--Raftsmen on the Neckar--The Log
+Rafts--The Neckar--A Sudden Idea--To Heidelberg on a Raft--Chartering
+a Raft--Gloomy Feelings and Conversation--Delicious Journeying--View of
+the Banks--Compared with Railroading
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+The Great French Duel
+
+[I Second Gambetta in a Terrific Duel]
+
+
+Much as the modern French duel is ridiculed by certain smart people, it
+is in reality one of the most dangerous institutions of our day. Since
+it is always fought in the open air, the combatants are nearly sure
+to catch cold. M. Paul de Cassagnac, the most inveterate of the French
+duelists, had suffered so often in this way that he is at last a
+confirmed invalid; and the best physician in Paris has expressed
+the opinion that if he goes on dueling for fifteen or twenty years
+more--unless he forms the habit of fighting in a comfortable room where
+damps and draughts cannot intrude--he will eventually endanger his life.
+This ought to moderate the talk of those people who are so stubborn
+in maintaining that the French duel is the most health-giving of
+recreations because of the open-air exercise it affords. And it
+ought also to moderate that foolish talk about French duelists and
+socialist-hated monarchs being the only people who are immoral.
+
+But it is time to get at my subject. As soon as I heard of the late
+fiery outbreak between M. Gambetta and M. Fourtou in the French
+Assembly, I knew that trouble must follow. I knew it because a long
+personal friendship with M. Gambetta revealed to me the desperate and
+implacable nature of the man. Vast as are his physical proportions,
+I knew that the thirst for revenge would penetrate to the remotest
+frontiers of his person.
+
+I did not wait for him to call on me, but went at once to him. As I had
+expected, I found the brave fellow steeped in a profound French calm.
+I say French calm, because French calmness and English calmness have
+points of difference.
+
+
+
+He was moving swiftly back and forth among the debris of his furniture,
+now and then staving chance fragments of it across the room with his
+foot; grinding a constant grist of curses through his set teeth; and
+halting every little while to deposit another handful of his hair on the
+pile which he had been building of it on the table.
+
+He threw his arms around my neck, bent me over his stomach to his
+breast, kissed me on both cheeks, hugged me four or five times, and
+then placed me in his own arm-chair. As soon as I had got well again, we
+began business at once.
+
+I said I supposed he would wish me to act as his second, and he said,
+"Of course." I said I must be allowed to act under a French name, so
+that I might be shielded from obloquy in my country, in case of fatal
+results. He winced here, probably at the suggestion that dueling was not
+regarded with respect in America. However, he agreed to my requirement.
+This accounts for the fact that in all the newspaper reports M.
+Gambetta's second was apparently a Frenchman.
+
+
+
+First, we drew up my principal's will. I insisted upon this, and stuck
+to my point. I said I had never heard of a man in his right mind going
+out to fight a duel without first making his will. He said he had never
+heard of a man in his right mind doing anything of the kind. When he had
+finished the will, he wished to proceed to a choice of his "last words."
+He wanted to know how the following words, as a dying exclamation,
+struck me:
+
+"I die for my God, for my country, for freedom of speech, for progress,
+and the universal brotherhood of man!"
+
+I objected that this would require too lingering a death; it was a good
+speech for a consumptive, but not suited to the exigencies of the field
+of honor. We wrangled over a good many ante-mortem outbursts, but I
+finally got him to cut his obituary down to this, which he copied into
+his memorandum-book, purposing to get it by heart:
+
+"I DIE THAT FRANCE MIGHT LIVE."
+
+I said that this remark seemed to lack relevancy; but he said relevancy
+was a matter of no consequence in last words, what you wanted was
+thrill.
+
+The next thing in order was the choice of weapons. My principal said he
+was not feeling well, and would leave that and the other details of the
+proposed meeting to me. Therefore I wrote the following note and carried
+it to M. Fourtou's friend:
+
+Sir: M. Gambetta accepts M. Fourtou's challenge, and authorizes me to
+propose Plessis-Piquet as the place of meeting; tomorrow morning at
+daybreak as the time; and axes as the weapons.
+
+I am, sir, with great respect,
+
+Mark Twain.
+
+M. Fourtou's friend read this note, and shuddered. Then he turned to me,
+and said, with a suggestion of severity in his tone:
+
+"Have you considered, sir, what would be the inevitable result of such a
+meeting as this?"
+
+"Well, for instance, what WOULD it be?"
+
+"Bloodshed!"
+
+"That's about the size of it," I said. "Now, if it is a fair question,
+what was your side proposing to shed?"
+
+I had him there. He saw he had made a blunder, so he hastened to explain
+it away. He said he had spoken jestingly. Then he added that he and his
+principal would enjoy axes, and indeed prefer them, but such weapons
+were barred by the French code, and so I must change my proposal.
+
+I walked the floor, turning the thing over in my mind, and finally it
+occurred to me that Gatling-guns at fifteen paces would be a likely way
+to get a verdict on the field of honor. So I framed this idea into a
+proposition.
+
+But it was not accepted. The code was in the way again. I proposed
+rifles; then double-barreled shotguns; then Colt's navy revolvers. These
+being all rejected, I reflected awhile, and sarcastically suggested
+brickbats at three-quarters of a mile. I always hate to fool away a
+humorous thing on a person who has no perception of humor; and it filled
+me with bitterness when this man went soberly away to submit the last
+proposition to his principal.
+
+He came back presently and said his principal was charmed with the idea
+of brickbats at three-quarters of a mile, but must decline on account of
+the danger to disinterested parties passing between them. Then I said:
+
+"Well, I am at the end of my string, now. Perhaps YOU would be good
+enough to suggest a weapon? Perhaps you have even had one in your mind
+all the time?"
+
+His countenance brightened, and he said with alacrity:
+
+"Oh, without doubt, monsieur!"
+
+
+
+So he fell to hunting in his pockets--pocket after pocket, and he had
+plenty of them--muttering all the while, "Now, what could I have done
+with them?"
+
+At last he was successful. He fished out of his vest pocket a couple
+of little things which I carried to the light and ascertained to be
+pistols. They were single-barreled and silver-mounted, and very dainty
+and pretty. I was not able to speak for emotion. I silently hung one of
+them on my watch-chain, and returned the other. My companion in crime
+now unrolled a postage-stamp containing several cartridges, and gave me
+one of them. I asked if he meant to signify by this that our men were
+to be allowed but one shot apiece. He replied that the French code
+permitted no more. I then begged him to go and suggest a distance, for
+my mind was growing weak and confused under the strain which had been
+put upon it. He named sixty-five yards. I nearly lost my patience. I
+said:
+
+"Sixty-five yards, with these instruments? Squirt-guns would be deadlier
+at fifty. Consider, my friend, you and I are banded together to destroy
+life, not make it eternal."
+
+But with all my persuasions, all my arguments, I was only able to
+get him to reduce the distance to thirty-five yards; and even this
+concession he made with reluctance, and said with a sigh, "I wash my
+hands of this slaughter; on your head be it."
+
+There was nothing for me but to go home to my old lion-heart and tell my
+humiliating story. When I entered, M. Gambetta was laying his last lock
+of hair upon the altar. He sprang toward me, exclaiming:
+
+"You have made the fatal arrangements--I see it in your eye!"
+
+"I have."
+
+His face paled a trifle, and he leaned upon the table for support. He
+breathed thick and heavily for a moment or two, so tumultuous were his
+feelings; then he hoarsely whispered:
+
+"The weapon, the weapon! Quick! what is the weapon?"
+
+"This!" and I displayed that silver-mounted thing. He cast but one
+glance at it, then swooned ponderously to the floor.
+
+
+
+When he came to, he said mournfully:
+
+"The unnatural calm to which I have subjected myself has told upon my
+nerves. But away with weakness! I will confront my fate like a man and a
+Frenchman."
+
+He rose to his feet, and assumed an attitude which for sublimity has
+never been approached by man, and has seldom been surpassed by statues.
+Then he said, in his deep bass tones:
+
+"Behold, I am calm, I am ready; reveal to me the distance."
+
+"Thirty-five yards." ...
+
+
+
+I could not lift him up, of course; but I rolled him over, and poured
+water down his back. He presently came to, and said:
+
+"Thirty-five yards--without a rest? But why ask? Since murder was that
+man's intention, why should he palter with small details? But mark you
+one thing: in my fall the world shall see how the chivalry of France
+meets death."
+
+After a long silence he asked:
+
+"Was nothing said about that man's family standing up with him, as
+an offset to my bulk? But no matter; I would not stoop to make such
+a suggestion; if he is not noble enough to suggest it himself, he is
+welcome to this advantage, which no honorable man would take."
+
+He now sank into a sort of stupor of reflection, which lasted some
+minutes; after which he broke silence with:
+
+"The hour--what is the hour fixed for the collision?"
+
+"Dawn, tomorrow."
+
+He seemed greatly surprised, and immediately said:
+
+"Insanity! I never heard of such a thing. Nobody is abroad at such an
+hour."
+
+"That is the reason I named it. Do you mean to say you want an
+audience?"
+
+"It is no time to bandy words. I am astonished that M. Fourtou should
+ever have agreed to so strange an innovation. Go at once and require a
+later hour."
+
+I ran downstairs, threw open the front door, and almost plunged into the
+arms of M. Fourtou's second. He said:
+
+"I have the honor to say that my principal strenuously objects to the
+hour chosen, and begs you will consent to change it to half past nine."
+
+"Any courtesy, sir, which it is in our power to extend is at the service
+of your excellent principal. We agree to the proposed change of time."
+
+"I beg you to accept the thanks of my client." Then he turned to a
+person behind him, and said, "You hear, M. Noir, the hour is altered to
+half past nine." Whereupon M. Noir bowed, expressed his thanks, and went
+away. My accomplice continued:
+
+"If agreeable to you, your chief surgeons and ours shall proceed to the
+field in the same carriage as is customary."
+
+"It is entirely agreeable to me, and I am obliged to you for mentioning
+the surgeons, for I am afraid I should not have thought of them. How
+many shall I want? I supposed two or three will be enough?"
+
+"Two is the customary number for each party. I refer to 'chief'
+surgeons; but considering the exalted positions occupied by our clients,
+it will be well and decorous that each of us appoint several consulting
+surgeons, from among the highest in the profession. These will come in
+their own private carriages. Have you engaged a hearse?"
+
+
+
+"Bless my stupidity, I never thought of it! I will attend to it right
+away. I must seem very ignorant to you; but you must try to overlook
+that, because I have never had any experience of such a swell duel as
+this before. I have had a good deal to do with duels on the Pacific
+coast, but I see now that they were crude affairs. A hearse--sho! we
+used to leave the elected lying around loose, and let anybody cord
+them up and cart them off that wanted to. Have you anything further to
+suggest?"
+
+"Nothing, except that the head undertakers shall ride together, as is
+usual. The subordinates and mutes will go on foot, as is also usual. I
+will see you at eight o'clock in the morning, and we will then arrange
+the order of the procession. I have the honor to bid you a good day."
+
+I returned to my client, who said, "Very well; at what hour is the
+engagement to begin?"
+
+"Half past nine."
+
+"Very good indeed. Have you sent the fact to the newspapers?"
+
+"SIR! If after our long and intimate friendship you can for a moment
+deem me capable of so base a treachery--"
+
+"Tut, tut! What words are these, my dear friend? Have I wounded you? Ah,
+forgive me; I am overloading you with labor. Therefore go on with the
+other details, and drop this one from your list. The bloody-minded
+Fourtou will be sure to attend to it. Or I myself--yes, to make certain,
+I will drop a note to my journalistic friend, M. Noir--"
+
+"Oh, come to think of it, you may save yourself the trouble; that other
+second has informed M. Noir."
+
+"H'm! I might have known it. It is just like that Fourtou, who always
+wants to make a display."
+
+
+
+At half past nine in the morning the procession approached the field of
+Plessis-Piquet in the following order: first came our carriage--nobody
+in it but M. Gambetta and myself; then a carriage containing M. Fourtou
+and his second; then a carriage containing two poet-orators who did not
+believe in God, and these had MS. funeral orations projecting from their
+breast pockets; then a carriage containing the head surgeons and their
+cases of instruments; then eight private carriages containing consulting
+surgeons; then a hack containing a coroner; then the two hearses; then a
+carriage containing the head undertakers; then a train of assistants
+and mutes on foot; and after these came plodding through the fog a long
+procession of camp followers, police, and citizens generally. It was a
+noble turnout, and would have made a fine display if we had had thinner
+weather.
+
+There was no conversation. I spoke several times to my principal, but
+I judge he was not aware of it, for he always referred to his note-book
+and muttered absently, "I die that France might live."
+
+Arrived on the field, my fellow-second and I paced off the thirty-five
+yards, and then drew lots for choice of position. This latter was but
+an ornamental ceremony, for all the choices were alike in such weather.
+These preliminaries being ended, I went to my principal and asked him
+if he was ready. He spread himself out to his full width, and said in a
+stern voice, "Ready! Let the batteries be charged."
+
+The loading process was done in the presence of duly constituted
+witnesses. We considered it best to perform this delicate service with
+the assistance of a lantern, on account of the state of the weather. We
+now placed our men.
+
+At this point the police noticed that the public had massed themselves
+together on the right and left of the field; they therefore begged a
+delay, while they should put these poor people in a place of safety.
+
+The request was granted.
+
+The police having ordered the two multitudes to take positions behind
+the duelists, we were once more ready. The weather growing still more
+opaque, it was agreed between myself and the other second that before
+giving the fatal signal we should each deliver a loud whoop to enable
+the combatants to ascertain each other's whereabouts.
+
+I now returned to my principal, and was distressed to observe that he
+had lost a good deal of his spirit. I tried my best to hearten him. I
+said, "Indeed, sir, things are not as bad as they seem. Considering
+the character of the weapons, the limited number of shots allowed, the
+generous distance, the impenetrable solidity of the fog, and the added
+fact that one of the combatants is one-eyed and the other cross-eyed and
+near-sighted, it seems to me that this conflict need not necessarily be
+fatal. There are chances that both of you may survive. Therefore, cheer
+up; do not be downhearted."
+
+This speech had so good an effect that my principal immediately
+stretched forth his hand and said, "I am myself again; give me the
+weapon."
+
+I laid it, all lonely and forlorn, in the center of the vast solitude
+of his palm. He gazed at it and shuddered. And still mournfully
+contemplating it, he murmured in a broken voice:
+
+"Alas, it is not death I dread, but mutilation."
+
+I heartened him once more, and with such success that he presently
+said, "Let the tragedy begin. Stand at my back; do not desert me in this
+solemn hour, my friend."
+
+I gave him my promise. I now assisted him to point his pistol toward the
+spot where I judged his adversary to be standing, and cautioned him to
+listen well and further guide himself by my fellow-second's whoop.
+Then I propped myself against M. Gambetta's back, and raised a rousing
+"Whoop-ee!" This was answered from out the far distances of the fog, and
+I immediately shouted:
+
+"One--two--three--FIRE!"
+
+Two little sounds like SPIT! SPIT! broke upon my ear, and in the same
+instant I was crushed to the earth under a mountain of flesh. Bruised
+as I was, I was still able to catch a faint accent from above, to this
+effect:
+
+
+
+"I die for... for ... perdition take it, what IS it I die for? ... oh,
+yes--FRANCE! I die that France may live!"
+
+The surgeons swarmed around with their probes in their hands, and
+applied their microscopes to the whole area of M. Gambetta's person,
+with the happy result of finding nothing in the nature of a wound. Then
+a scene ensued which was in every way gratifying and inspiriting.
+
+The two gladiators fell upon each other's neck, with floods of proud and
+happy tears; that other second embraced me; the surgeons, the
+orators, the undertakers, the police, everybody embraced, everybody
+congratulated, everybody cried, and the whole atmosphere was filled with
+praise and with joy unspeakable.
+
+It seems to me then that I would rather be a hero of a French duel than
+a crowned and sceptered monarch.
+
+
+
+When the commotion had somewhat subsided, the body of surgeons held a
+consultation, and after a good deal of debate decided that with proper
+care and nursing there was reason to believe that I would survive my
+injuries. My internal hurts were deemed the most serious, since it was
+apparent that a broken rib had penetrated my left lung, and that many of
+my organs had been pressed out so far to one side or the other of where
+they belonged, that it was doubtful if they would ever learn to perform
+their functions in such remote and unaccustomed localities. They then
+set my left arm in two places, pulled my right hip into its socket
+again, and re-elevated my nose. I was an object of great interest,
+and even admiration; and many sincere and warm-hearted persons had
+themselves introduced to me, and said they were proud to know the only
+man who had been hurt in a French duel in forty years.
+
+I was placed in an ambulance at the very head of the procession;
+and thus with gratifying 'ECLAT I was marched into Paris, the most
+conspicuous figure in that great spectacle, and deposited at the
+hospital.
+
+
+
+The cross of the Legion of Honor has been conferred upon me. However,
+few escape that distinction.
+
+Such is the true version of the most memorable private conflict of the
+age.
+
+I have no complaints to make against any one. I acted for myself, and I
+can stand the consequences.
+
+Without boasting, I think I may say I am not afraid to stand before a
+modern French duelist, but as long as I keep in my right mind I will
+never consent to stand behind one again.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+[What the Beautiful Maiden Said]
+
+
+One day we took the train and went down to Mannheim to see "King Lear"
+played in German. It was a mistake. We sat in our seats three whole
+hours and never understood anything but the thunder and lightning; and
+even that was reversed to suit German ideas, for the thunder came first
+and the lightning followed after.
+
+The behavior of the audience was perfect. There were no rustlings, or
+whisperings, or other little disturbances; each act was listened to in
+silence, and the applauding was done after the curtain was down. The
+doors opened at half past four, the play began promptly at half past
+five, and within two minutes afterward all who were coming were in their
+seats, and quiet reigned. A German gentleman in the train had said that
+a Shakespearian play was an appreciated treat in Germany and that
+we should find the house filled. It was true; all the six tiers were
+filled, and remained so to the end--which suggested that it is not only
+balcony people who like Shakespeare in Germany, but those of the pit and
+gallery, too.
+
+Another time, we went to Mannheim and attended a shivaree--otherwise an
+opera--the one called "Lohengrin." The banging and slamming and booming
+and crashing were something beyond belief. The racking and pitiless pain
+of it remains stored up in my memory alongside the memory of the time
+that I had my teeth fixed.
+
+
+
+There were circumstances which made it necessary for me to stay through
+the four hours to the end, and I stayed; but the recollection of that
+long, dragging, relentless season of suffering is indestructible. To
+have to endure it in silence, and sitting still, made it all the harder.
+I was in a railed compartment with eight or ten strangers, of the two
+sexes, and this compelled repression; yet at times the pain was so
+exquisite that I could hardly keep the tears back.
+
+
+
+At those times, as the howlings and wailings and shrieking of the
+singers, and the ragings and roarings and explosions of the vast
+orchestra rose higher and higher, and wilder and wilder, and fiercer and
+fiercer, I could have cried if I had been alone. Those strangers would
+not have been surprised to see a man do such a thing who was being
+gradually skinned, but they would have marveled at it here, and made
+remarks about it no doubt, whereas there was nothing in the present case
+which was an advantage over being skinned.
+
+
+
+There was a wait of half an hour at the end of the first act, and I
+could have gone out and rested during that time, but I could not trust
+myself to do it, for I felt that I should desert to stay out. There was
+another wait of half an hour toward nine o'clock, but I had gone through
+so much by that time that I had no spirit left, and so had no desire but
+to be let alone.
+
+
+
+I do not wish to suggest that the rest of the people there were like
+me, for, indeed, they were not. Whether it was that they naturally
+liked that noise, or whether it was that they had learned to like it
+by getting used to it, I did not at the time know; but they did like
+it--this was plain enough. While it was going on they sat and looked as
+rapt and grateful as cats do when one strokes their backs; and whenever
+the curtain fell they rose to their feet, in one solid mighty multitude,
+and the air was snowed thick with waving handkerchiefs, and hurricanes
+of applause swept the place. This was not comprehensible to me. Of
+course, there were many people there who were not under compulsion to
+stay; yet the tiers were as full at the close as they had been at the
+beginning. This showed that the people liked it.
+
+It was a curious sort of a play. In the manner of costumes and scenery
+it was fine and showy enough; but there was not much action. That is
+to say, there was not much really done, it was only talked about; and
+always violently. It was what one might call a narrative play. Everybody
+had a narrative and a grievance, and none were reasonable about it, but
+all in an offensive and ungovernable state. There was little of that
+sort of customary thing where the tenor and the soprano stand down by
+the footlights, warbling, with blended voices, and keep holding out
+their arms toward each other and drawing them back and spreading both
+hands over first one breast and then the other with a shake and a
+pressure--no, it was every rioter for himself and no blending. Each sang
+his indictive narrative in turn, accompanied by the whole orchestra of
+sixty instruments, and when this had continued for some time, and one
+was hoping they might come to an understanding and modify the noise, a
+great chorus composed entirely of maniacs would suddenly break forth,
+and then during two minutes, and sometimes three, I lived over again all
+that I suffered the time the orphan asylum burned down.
+
+
+
+We only had one brief little season of heaven and heaven's sweet ecstasy
+and peace during all this long and diligent and acrimonious reproduction
+of the other place. This was while a gorgeous procession of people
+marched around and around, in the third act, and sang the Wedding
+Chorus. To my untutored ear that was music--almost divine music. While
+my seared soul was steeped in the healing balm of those gracious sounds,
+it seemed to me that I could almost resuffer the torments which had
+gone before, in order to be so healed again. There is where the deep
+ingenuity of the operatic idea is betrayed. It deals so largely in pain
+that its scattered delights are prodigiously augmented by the contrasts.
+A pretty air in an opera is prettier there than it could be anywhere
+else, I suppose, just as an honest man in politics shines more than he
+would elsewhere.
+
+I have since found out that there is nothing the Germans like so much as
+an opera. They like it, not in a mild and moderate way, but with their
+whole hearts. This is a legitimate result of habit and education. Our
+nation will like the opera, too, by and by, no doubt. One in fifty of
+those who attend our operas likes it already, perhaps, but I think a
+good many of the other forty-nine go in order to learn to like it, and
+the rest in order to be able to talk knowingly about it. The latter
+usually hum the airs while they are being sung, so that their neighbors
+may perceive that they have been to operas before. The funerals of these
+do not occur often enough.
+
+
+
+A gentle, old-maidish person and a sweet young girl of seventeen sat
+right in front of us that night at the Mannheim opera. These people
+talked, between the acts, and I understood them, though I understood
+nothing that was uttered on the distant stage. At first they were
+guarded in their talk, but after they had heard my agent and me
+conversing in English they dropped their reserve and I picked up many
+of their little confidences; no, I mean many of HER little
+confidences--meaning the elder party--for the young girl only listened,
+and gave assenting nods, but never said a word. How pretty she was,
+and how sweet she was! I wished she would speak. But evidently she was
+absorbed in her own thoughts, her own young-girl dreams, and found a
+dearer pleasure in silence. But she was not dreaming sleepy dreams--no,
+she was awake, alive, alert, she could not sit still a moment. She was
+an enchanting study. Her gown was of a soft white silky stuff that clung
+to her round young figure like a fish's skin, and it was rippled over
+with the gracefulest little fringy films of lace; she had deep, tender
+eyes, with long, curved lashes; and she had peachy cheeks, and a
+dimpled chin, and such a dear little rosebud of a mouth; and she was so
+dovelike, so pure, and so gracious, so sweet and so bewitching. For long
+hours I did mightily wish she would speak. And at last she did; the red
+lips parted, and out leaps her thought--and with such a guileless and
+pretty enthusiasm, too: "Auntie, I just KNOW I've got five hundred fleas
+on me!"
+
+That was probably over the average. Yes, it must have been very much
+over the average. The average at that time in the Grand Duchy of Baden
+was forty-five to a young person (when alone), according to the official
+estimate of the home secretary for that year; the average for older
+people was shifty and indeterminable, for whenever a wholesome young
+girl came into the presence of her elders she immediately lowered their
+average and raised her own. She became a sort of contribution-box.
+
+
+
+This dear young thing in the theater had been sitting there
+unconsciously taking up a collection. Many a skinny old being in our
+neighborhood was the happier and the restfuler for her coming.
+
+In that large audience, that night, there were eight very conspicuous
+people. These were ladies who had their hats or bonnets on. What a
+blessed thing it would be if a lady could make herself conspicuous in
+our theaters by wearing her hat.
+
+
+
+It is not usual in Europe to allow ladies and gentlemen to take bonnets,
+hats, overcoats, canes, or umbrellas into the auditorium, but in
+Mannheim this rule was not enforced because the audiences were largely
+made up of people from a distance, and among these were always a few
+timid ladies who were afraid that if they had to go into an anteroom to
+get their things when the play was over, they would miss their train.
+But the great mass of those who came from a distance always ran the risk
+and took the chances, preferring the loss of a train to a breach of good
+manners and the discomfort of being unpleasantly conspicuous during a
+stretch of three or four hours.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+[How Wagner Operas Bang Along]
+
+
+Three or four hours. That is a long time to sit in one place, whether
+one be conspicuous or not, yet some of Wagner's operas bang along for
+six whole hours on a stretch! But the people sit there and enjoy it all,
+and wish it would last longer. A German lady in Munich told me that a
+person could not like Wagner's music at first, but must go through the
+deliberate process of learning to like it--then he would have his sure
+reward; for when he had learned to like it he would hunger for it and
+never be able to get enough of it. She said that six hours of Wagner was
+by no means too much. She said that this composer had made a complete
+revolution in music and was burying the old masters one by one. And
+she said that Wagner's operas differed from all others in one notable
+respect, and that was that they were not merely spotted with music here
+and there, but were ALL music, from the first strain to the last. This
+surprised me. I said I had attended one of his insurrections, and found
+hardly ANY music in it except the Wedding Chorus. She said "Lohengrin"
+was noisier than Wagner's other operas, but that if I would keep on
+going to see it I would find by and by that it was all music, and
+therefore would then enjoy it. I COULD have said, "But would you advise
+a person to deliberately practice having a toothache in the pit of his
+stomach for a couple of years in order that he might then come to enjoy
+it?" But I reserved that remark.
+
+This lady was full of the praises of the head-tenor who had performed in
+a Wagner opera the night before, and went on to enlarge upon his old and
+prodigious fame, and how many honors had been lavished upon him by the
+princely houses of Germany. Here was another surprise. I had attended
+that very opera, in the person of my agent, and had made close and
+accurate observations. So I said:
+
+"Why, madam, MY experience warrants me in stating that that tenor's
+voice is not a voice at all, but only a shriek--the shriek of a hyena."
+
+
+
+"That is very true," she said; "he cannot sing now; it is already many
+years that he has lost his voice, but in other times he sang, yes,
+divinely! So whenever he comes now, you shall see, yes, that the theater
+will not hold the people. JAWOHL BEI GOTT! his voice is WUNDERSCHOEN in
+that past time."
+
+I said she was discovering to me a kindly trait in the Germans which
+was worth emulating. I said that over the water we were not quite so
+generous; that with us, when a singer had lost his voice and a jumper
+had lost his legs, these parties ceased to draw. I said I had been to
+the opera in Hanover, once, and in Mannheim once, and in Munich
+(through my authorized agent) once, and this large experience had nearly
+persuaded me that the Germans PREFERRED singers who couldn't sing. This
+was not such a very extravagant speech, either, for that burly Mannheim
+tenor's praises had been the talk of all Heidelberg for a week before
+his performance took place--yet his voice was like the distressing noise
+which a nail makes when you screech it across a window-pane. I said so
+to Heidelberg friends the next day, and they said, in the calmest and
+simplest way, that that was very true, but that in earlier times his
+voice HAD been wonderfully fine. And the tenor in Hanover was just
+another example of this sort. The English-speaking German gentleman who
+went with me to the opera there was brimming with enthusiasm over that
+tenor. He said:
+
+"ACH GOTT! a great man! You shall see him. He is so celebrate in all
+Germany--and he has a pension, yes, from the government. He not obliged
+to sing now, only twice every year; but if he not sing twice each year
+they take him his pension away."
+
+Very well, we went. When the renowned old tenor appeared, I got a nudge
+and an excited whisper:
+
+"Now you see him!"
+
+But the "celebrate" was an astonishing disappointment to me. If he
+had been behind a screen I should have supposed they were performing a
+surgical operation on him. I looked at my friend--to my great surprise
+he seemed intoxicated with pleasure, his eyes were dancing with eager
+delight. When the curtain at last fell, he burst into the stormiest
+applause, and kept it up--as did the whole house--until the afflictive
+tenor had come three times before the curtain to make his bow. While the
+glowing enthusiast was swabbing the perspiration from his face, I said:
+
+"I don't mean the least harm, but really, now, do you think he can
+sing?"
+
+"Him? NO! GOTT IM HIMMEL, ABER, how he has been able to sing twenty-five
+years ago?" [Then pensively.] "ACH, no, NOW he not sing any more, he
+only cry. When he think he sing, now, he not sing at all, no, he only
+make like a cat which is unwell."
+
+
+
+Where and how did we get the idea that the Germans are a stolid,
+phlegmatic race? In truth, they are widely removed from that. They are
+warm-hearted, emotional, impulsive, enthusiastic, their tears come at
+the mildest touch, and it is not hard to move them to laughter. They are
+the very children of impulse. We are cold and self-contained, compared
+to the Germans. They hug and kiss and cry and shout and dance and sing;
+and where we use one loving, petting expression, they pour out a score.
+Their language is full of endearing diminutives; nothing that they love
+escapes the application of a petting diminutive--neither the house, nor
+the dog, nor the horse, nor the grandmother, nor any other creature,
+animate or inanimate.
+
+In the theaters at Hanover, Hamburg, and Mannheim, they had a wise
+custom. The moment the curtain went up, the light in the body of the
+house went down. The audience sat in the cool gloom of a deep twilight,
+which greatly enhanced the glowing splendors of the stage. It saved gas,
+too, and people were not sweated to death.
+
+When I saw "King Lear" played, nobody was allowed to see a scene
+shifted; if there was nothing to be done but slide a forest out of the
+way and expose a temple beyond, one did not see that forest split itself
+in the middle and go shrieking away, with the accompanying disenchanting
+spectacle of the hands and heels of the impelling impulse--no, the
+curtain was always dropped for an instant--one heard not the least
+movement behind it--but when it went up, the next instant, the forest
+was gone. Even when the stage was being entirely reset, one heard no
+noise. During the whole time that "King Lear" was playing the curtain
+was never down two minutes at any one time. The orchestra played until
+the curtain was ready to go up for the first time, then they departed
+for the evening. Where the stage waits never reach two minutes there is
+no occasion for music. I had never seen this two-minute business between
+acts but once before, and that was when the "Shaughraun" was played at
+Wallack's.
+
+I was at a concert in Munich one night, the people were streaming in,
+the clock-hand pointed to seven, the music struck up, and instantly
+all movement in the body of the house ceased--nobody was standing, or
+walking up the aisles, or fumbling with a seat, the stream of incomers
+had suddenly dried up at its source. I listened undisturbed to a piece
+of music that was fifteen minutes long--always expecting some tardy
+ticket-holders to come crowding past my knees, and being continuously
+and pleasantly disappointed--but when the last note was struck, here
+came the stream again. You see, they had made those late comers wait in
+the comfortable waiting-parlor from the time the music had begun until
+it was ended.
+
+
+
+It was the first time I had ever seen this sort of criminals denied the
+privilege of destroying the comfort of a house full of their betters.
+Some of these were pretty fine birds, but no matter, they had to tarry
+outside in the long parlor under the inspection of a double rank of
+liveried footmen and waiting-maids who supported the two walls with
+their backs and held the wraps and traps of their masters and mistresses
+on their arms.
+
+We had no footmen to hold our things, and it was not permissible to take
+them into the concert-room; but there were some men and women to take
+charge of them for us. They gave us checks for them and charged a fixed
+price, payable in advance--five cents.
+
+In Germany they always hear one thing at an opera which has never yet
+been heard in America, perhaps--I mean the closing strain of a fine solo
+or duet. We always smash into it with an earthquake of applause. The
+result is that we rob ourselves of the sweetest part of the treat; we
+get the whiskey, but we don't get the sugar in the bottom of the glass.
+
+Our way of scattering applause along through an act seems to me to be
+better than the Mannheim way of saving it all up till the act is ended.
+I do not see how an actor can forget himself and portray hot passion
+before a cold still audience. I should think he would feel foolish. It
+is a pain to me to this day, to remember how that old German Lear raged
+and wept and howled around the stage, with never a response from that
+hushed house, never a single outburst till the act was ended. To
+me there was something unspeakably uncomfortable in the solemn dead
+silences that always followed this old person's tremendous outpourings
+of his feelings. I could not help putting myself in his place--I thought
+I knew how sick and flat he felt during those silences, because I
+remembered a case which came under my observation once, and which--but I
+will tell the incident:
+
+One evening on board a Mississippi steamboat, a boy of ten years lay
+asleep in a berth--a long, slim-legged boy, he was, encased in quite
+a short shirt; it was the first time he had ever made a trip on a
+steamboat, and so he was troubled, and scared, and had gone to bed
+with his head filled with impending snaggings, and explosions, and
+conflagrations, and sudden death. About ten o'clock some twenty ladies
+were sitting around about the ladies' saloon, quietly reading, sewing,
+embroidering, and so on, and among them sat a sweet, benignant old dame
+with round spectacles on her nose and her busy knitting-needles in her
+hands. Now all of a sudden, into the midst of this peaceful scene burst
+that slim-shanked boy in the brief shirt, wild-eyed, erect-haired, and
+shouting, "Fire, fire! JUMP AND RUN, THE BOAT'S AFIRE AND THERE AIN'T A
+MINUTE TO LOSE!" All those ladies looked sweetly up and smiled, nobody
+stirred, the old lady pulled her spectacles down, looked over them, and
+said, gently:
+
+"But you mustn't catch cold, child. Run and put on your breastpin, and
+then come and tell us all about it."
+
+It was a cruel chill to give to a poor little devil's gushing vehemence.
+He was expecting to be a sort of hero--the creator of a wild panic--and
+here everybody sat and smiled a mocking smile, and an old woman made fun
+of his bugbear. I turned and crept away--for I was that boy--and never
+even cared to discover whether I had dreamed the fire or actually seen
+it.
+
+
+
+I am told that in a German concert or opera, they hardly ever encore
+a song; that though they may be dying to hear it again, their good
+breeding usually preserves them against requiring the repetition.
+
+Kings may encore; that is quite another matter; it delights everybody to
+see that the King is pleased; and as to the actor encored, his pride and
+gratification are simply boundless. Still, there are circumstances in
+which even a royal encore--
+
+But it is better to illustrate. The King of Bavaria is a poet, and has a
+poet's eccentricities--with the advantage over all other poets of being
+able to gratify them, no matter what form they may take. He is fond
+of opera, but not fond of sitting in the presence of an audience;
+therefore, it has sometimes occurred, in Munich, that when an opera has
+been concluded and the players were getting off their paint and finery,
+a command has come to them to get their paint and finery on again.
+Presently the King would arrive, solitary and alone, and the players
+would begin at the beginning and do the entire opera over again with
+only that one individual in the vast solemn theater for audience. Once
+he took an odd freak into his head. High up and out of sight, over
+the prodigious stage of the court theater is a maze of interlacing
+water-pipes, so pierced that in case of fire, innumerable little
+thread-like streams of water can be caused to descend; and in case
+of need, this discharge can be augmented to a pouring flood. American
+managers might want to make a note of that. The King was sole audience.
+The opera proceeded, it was a piece with a storm in it; the mimic
+thunder began to mutter, the mimic wind began to wail and sough, and
+the mimic rain to patter. The King's interest rose higher and higher; it
+developed into enthusiasm. He cried out:
+
+"It is very, very good, indeed! But I will have real rain! Turn on the
+water!"
+
+The manager pleaded for a reversal of the command; said it would ruin
+the costly scenery and the splendid costumes, but the King cried:
+
+"No matter, no matter, I will have real rain! Turn on the water!"
+
+So the real rain was turned on and began to descend in gossamer lances
+to the mimic flower-beds and gravel walks of the stage. The richly
+dressed actresses and actors tripped about singing bravely and
+pretending not to mind it. The King was delighted--his enthusiasm grew
+higher. He cried out:
+
+"Bravo, bravo! More thunder! more lightning! turn on more rain!"
+
+
+
+The thunder boomed, the lightning glared, the storm-winds raged, the
+deluge poured down. The mimic royalty on the stage, with their soaked
+satins clinging to their bodies, slopped about ankle-deep in water,
+warbling their sweetest and best, the fiddlers under the eaves of the
+stage sawed away for dear life, with the cold overflow spouting down the
+backs of their necks, and the dry and happy King sat in his lofty box
+and wore his gloves to ribbons applauding.
+
+"More yet!" cried the King; "more yet--let loose all the thunder, turn
+on all the water! I will hang the man that raises an umbrella!"
+
+When this most tremendous and effective storm that had ever been
+produced in any theater was at last over, the King's approbation was
+measureless. He cried:
+
+"Magnificent, magnificent! ENCORE! Do it again!"
+
+But the manager succeeded in persuading him to recall the encore, and
+said the company would feel sufficiently rewarded and complimented
+in the mere fact that the encore was desired by his Majesty, without
+fatiguing him with a repetition to gratify their own vanity.
+
+During the remainder of the act the lucky performers were those whose
+parts required changes of dress; the others were a soaked, bedraggled,
+and uncomfortable lot, but in the last degree picturesque. The stage
+scenery was ruined, trap-doors were so swollen that they wouldn't work
+for a week afterward, the fine costumes were spoiled, and no end of
+minor damages were done by that remarkable storm.
+
+It was a royal idea--that storm--and royally carried out. But observe
+the moderation of the King; he did not insist upon his encore. If he had
+been a gladsome, unreflecting American opera-audience, he probably would
+have had his storm repeated and repeated until he drowned all those
+people.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+[I Paint a "Turner"]
+
+
+The summer days passed pleasantly in Heidelberg. We had a skilled
+trainer, and under his instructions we were getting our legs in the
+right condition for the contemplated pedestrian tours; we were well
+satisfied with the progress which we had made in the German language,
+[1. See Appendix D for information concerning this fearful tongue.] and
+more than satisfied with what we had accomplished in art. We had had the
+best instructors in drawing and painting in Germany--Haemmerling, Vogel,
+Mueller, Dietz, and Schumann. Haemmerling taught us landscape-painting.
+Vogel taught us figure-drawing, Mueller taught us to do still-life,
+and Dietz and Schumann gave us a finishing course in two
+specialties--battle-pieces and shipwrecks. Whatever I am in Art I owe to
+these men. I have something of the manner of each and all of them;
+but they all said that I had also a manner of my own, and that it
+was conspicuous. They said there was a marked individuality about my
+style--insomuch that if I ever painted the commonest type of a dog, I
+should be sure to throw a something into the aspect of that dog which
+would keep him from being mistaken for the creation of any other artist.
+Secretly I wanted to believe all these kind sayings, but I could not; I
+was afraid that my masters' partiality for me, and pride in me, biased
+their judgment. So I resolved to make a test. Privately, and unknown to
+any one, I painted my great picture, "Heidelberg Castle Illuminated"--my
+first really important work in oils--and had it hung up in the midst
+of a wilderness of oil-pictures in the Art Exhibition, with no name
+attached to it. To my great gratification it was instantly recognized
+as mine. All the town flocked to see it, and people even came from
+neighboring localities to visit it. It made more stir than any other
+work in the Exhibition. But the most gratifying thing of all was, that
+chance strangers, passing through, who had not heard of my picture, were
+not only drawn to it, as by a lodestone, the moment they entered the
+gallery, but always took it for a "Turner."
+
+
+
+Apparently nobody had ever done that. There were ruined castles on the
+overhanging cliffs and crags all the way; these were said to have their
+legends, like those on the Rhine, and what was better still, they had
+never been in print. There was nothing in the books about that lovely
+region; it had been neglected by the tourist, it was virgin soil for the
+literary pioneer.
+
+Meantime the knapsacks, the rough walking-suits and the stout
+walking-shoes which we had ordered, were finished and brought to us.
+A Mr. X and a young Mr. Z had agreed to go with us. We went around one
+evening and bade good-by to our friends, and afterward had a little
+farewell banquet at the hotel. We got to bed early, for we wanted to
+make an early start, so as to take advantage of the cool of the morning.
+
+We were out of bed at break of day, feeling fresh and vigorous, and took
+a hearty breakfast, then plunged down through the leafy arcades of the
+Castle grounds, toward the town. What a glorious summer morning it was,
+and how the flowers did pour out their fragrance, and how the birds did
+sing! It was just the time for a tramp through the woods and mountains.
+
+
+
+We were all dressed alike: broad slouch hats, to keep the sun off; gray
+knapsacks; blue army shirts; blue overalls; leathern gaiters buttoned
+tight from knee down to ankle; high-quarter coarse shoes snugly laced.
+Each man had an opera-glass, a canteen, and a guide-book case slung over
+his shoulder, and carried an alpenstock in one hand and a sun-umbrella
+in the other. Around our hats were wound many folds of soft white
+muslin, with the ends hanging and flapping down our backs--an idea
+brought from the Orient and used by tourists all over Europe. Harris
+carried the little watch-like machine called a "pedometer," whose
+office is to keep count of a man's steps and tell how far he has walked.
+Everybody stopped to admire our costumes and give us a hearty "Pleasant
+march to you!"
+
+
+
+When we got downtown I found that we could go by rail to within five
+miles of Heilbronn. The train was just starting, so we jumped aboard and
+went tearing away in splendid spirits. It was agreed all around that we
+had done wisely, because it would be just as enjoyable to walk DOWN the
+Neckar as up it, and it could not be needful to walk both ways. There
+were some nice German people in our compartment. I got to talking some
+pretty private matters presently, and Harris became nervous; so he
+nudged me and said:
+
+"Speak in German--these Germans may understand English."
+
+I did so, it was well I did; for it turned out that there was not a
+German in that party who did not understand English perfectly. It is
+curious how widespread our language is in Germany. After a while some of
+those folks got out and a German gentleman and his two young daughters
+got in. I spoke in German of one of the latter several times, but
+without result. Finally she said:
+
+"ICH VERSTEHE NUR DEUTCH UND ENGLISHE,"--or words to that effect. That
+is, "I don't understand any language but German and English."
+
+And sure enough, not only she but her father and sister spoke English.
+So after that we had all the talk we wanted; and we wanted a good deal,
+for they were agreeable people. They were greatly interested in our
+customs; especially the alpenstocks, for they had not seen any before.
+They said that the Neckar road was perfectly level, so we must be going
+to Switzerland or some other rugged country; and asked us if we did not
+find the walking pretty fatiguing in such warm weather. But we said no.
+
+We reached Wimpfen--I think it was Wimpfen--in about three hours, and
+got out, not the least tired; found a good hotel and ordered beer and
+dinner--then took a stroll through the venerable old village. It was
+very picturesque and tumble-down, and dirty and interesting. It had
+queer houses five hundred years old in it, and a military tower 115 feet
+high, which had stood there more than ten centuries. I made a little
+sketch of it. I kept a copy, but gave the original to the Burgomaster.
+
+
+
+I think the original was better than the copy, because it had more
+windows in it and the grass stood up better and had a brisker look.
+There was none around the tower, though; I composed the grass myself,
+from studies I made in a field by Heidelberg in Haemmerling's time. The
+man on top, looking at the view, is apparently too large, but I found
+he could not be made smaller, conveniently. I wanted him there, and I
+wanted him visible, so I thought out a way to manage it; I composed the
+picture from two points of view; the spectator is to observe the man
+from bout where that flag is, and he must observe the tower itself from
+the ground. This harmonizes the seeming discrepancy. [Figure 2]
+
+Near an old cathedral, under a shed, were three crosses of stone--moldy
+and damaged things, bearing life-size stone figures. The two thieves
+were dressed in the fanciful court costumes of the middle of the
+sixteenth century, while the Saviour was nude, with the exception of a
+cloth around the loins.
+
+We had dinner under the green trees in a garden belonging to the hotel
+and overlooking the Neckar; then, after a smoke, we went to bed. We had
+a refreshing nap, then got up about three in the afternoon and put
+on our panoply. As we tramped gaily out at the gate of the town, we
+overtook a peasant's cart, partly laden with odds and ends of cabbages
+and similar vegetable rubbish, and drawn by a small cow and a smaller
+donkey yoked together. It was a pretty slow concern, but it got us into
+Heilbronn before dark--five miles, or possibly it was seven.
+
+
+
+We stopped at the very same inn which the famous old robber-knight
+and rough fighter Goetz von Berlichingen, abode in after he got out of
+captivity in the Square Tower of Heilbronn between three hundred and
+fifty and four hundred years ago. Harris and I occupied the same room
+which he had occupied and the same paper had not quite peeled off the
+walls yet. The furniture was quaint old carved stuff, full four hundred
+years old, and some of the smells were over a thousand. There was a hook
+in the wall, which the landlord said the terrific old Goetz used to hang
+his iron hand on when he took it off to go to bed. This room was very
+large--it might be called immense--and it was on the first floor; which
+means it was in the second story, for in Europe the houses are so
+high that they do not count the first story, else they would get tired
+climbing before they got to the top. The wallpaper was a fiery red, with
+huge gold figures in it, well smirched by time, and it covered all the
+doors. These doors fitted so snugly and continued the figures of the
+paper so unbrokenly, that when they were closed one had to go feeling
+and searching along the wall to find them. There was a stove in the
+corner--one of those tall, square, stately white porcelain things that
+looks like a monument and keeps you thinking of death when you ought to
+be enjoying your travels. The windows looked out on a little alley, and
+over that into a stable and some poultry and pig yards in the rear of
+some tenement-houses. There were the customary two beds in the room,
+one in one end, the other in the other, about an old-fashioned
+brass-mounted, single-barreled pistol-shot apart. They were fully
+as narrow as the usual German bed, too, and had the German bed's
+ineradicable habit of spilling the blankets on the floor every time you
+forgot yourself and went to sleep.
+
+A round table as large as King Arthur's stood in the center of the room;
+while the waiters were getting ready to serve our dinner on it we
+all went out to see the renowned clock on the front of the municipal
+buildings.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+[What the Wives Saved]
+
+
+The RATHHAUS, or municipal building, is of the quaintest and most
+picturesque Middle-Age architecture. It has a massive portico and steps,
+before it, heavily balustraded, and adorned with life-sized rusty iron
+knights in complete armor. The clock-face on the front of the building
+is very large and of curious pattern. Ordinarily, a gilded angel
+strikes the hour on a big bell with a hammer; as the striking ceases, a
+life-sized figure of Time raises its hour-glass and turns it; two golden
+rams advance and butt each other; a gilded cock lifts its wings; but the
+main features are two great angels, who stand on each side of the dial
+with long horns at their lips; it was said that they blew melodious
+blasts on these horns every hour--but they did not do it for us. We were
+told, later, that they blew only at night, when the town was still.
+
+Within the RATHHAUS were a number of huge wild boars' heads, preserved,
+and mounted on brackets along the wall; they bore inscriptions telling
+who killed them and how many hundred years ago it was done. One room in
+the building was devoted to the preservation of ancient archives. There
+they showed us no end of aged documents; some were signed by Popes,
+some by Tilly and other great generals, and one was a letter written and
+subscribed by Goetz von Berlichingen in Heilbronn in 1519 just after his
+release from the Square Tower.
+
+
+
+This fine old robber-knight was a devoutly and sincerely religious
+man, hospitable, charitable to the poor, fearless in fight, active,
+enterprising, and possessed of a large and generous nature. He had in
+him a quality of being able to overlook moderate injuries, and being
+able to forgive and forget mortal ones as soon as he had soundly
+trounced the authors of them. He was prompt to take up any poor devil's
+quarrel and risk his neck to right him. The common folk held him dear,
+and his memory is still green in ballad and tradition. He used to go on
+the highway and rob rich wayfarers; and other times he would swoop down
+from his high castle on the hills of the Neckar and capture passing
+cargoes of merchandise. In his memoirs he piously thanks the Giver of
+all Good for remembering him in his needs and delivering sundry such
+cargoes into his hands at times when only special providences could have
+relieved him. He was a doughty warrior and found a deep joy in battle.
+In an assault upon a stronghold in Bavaria when he was only twenty-three
+years old, his right hand was shot away, but he was so interested in the
+fight that he did not observe it for a while. He said that the iron hand
+which was made for him afterward, and which he wore for more than half a
+century, was nearly as clever a member as the fleshy one had been. I was
+glad to get a facsimile of the letter written by this fine old German
+Robin Hood, though I was not able to read it. He was a better artist
+with his sword than with his pen.
+
+We went down by the river and saw the Square Tower. It was a very
+venerable structure, very strong, and very ornamental. There was no
+opening near the ground. They had to use a ladder to get into it, no
+doubt.
+
+We visited the principal church, also--a curious old structure, with a
+towerlike spire adorned with all sorts of grotesque images. The inner
+walls of the church were placarded with large mural tablets of copper,
+bearing engraved inscriptions celebrating the merits of old Heilbronn
+worthies of two or three centuries ago, and also bearing rudely painted
+effigies of themselves and their families tricked out in the queer
+costumes of those days. The head of the family sat in the foreground,
+and beyond him extended a sharply receding and diminishing row of
+sons; facing him sat his wife, and beyond her extended a low row of
+diminishing daughters. The family was usually large, but the perspective
+bad.
+
+Then we hired the hack and the horse which Goetz von Berlichingen used
+to use, and drove several miles into the country to visit the place
+called WEIBERTREU--Wife's Fidelity I suppose it means. It was a feudal
+castle of the Middle Ages. When we reached its neighborhood we found
+it was beautifully situated, but on top of a mound, or hill, round and
+tolerably steep, and about two hundred feet high. Therefore, as the sun
+was blazing hot, we did not climb up there, but took the place on trust,
+and observed it from a distance while the horse leaned up against a
+fence and rested. The place has no interest except that which is lent it
+by its legend, which is a very pretty one--to this effect:
+
+THE LEGEND
+
+In the Middle Ages, a couple of young dukes, brothers, took opposite
+sides in one of the wars, the one fighting for the Emperor, the other
+against him. One of them owned the castle and village on top of the
+mound which I have been speaking of, and in his absence his brother
+came with his knights and soldiers and began a siege. It was a long and
+tedious business, for the people made a stubborn and faithful defense.
+But at last their supplies ran out and starvation began its work;
+more fell by hunger than by the missiles of the enemy. They by and
+by surrendered, and begged for charitable terms. But the beleaguering
+prince was so incensed against them for their long resistance that he
+said he would spare none but the women and children--all men should be
+put to the sword without exception, and all their goods destroyed. Then
+the women came and fell on their knees and begged for the lives of their
+husbands.
+
+"No," said the prince, "not a man of them shall escape alive; you
+yourselves shall go with your children into houseless and friendless
+banishment; but that you may not starve I grant you this one grace,
+that each woman may bear with her from this place as much of her most
+valuable property as she is able to carry."
+
+Very well, presently the gates swung open and out filed those women
+carrying their HUSBANDS on their shoulders. The besiegers, furious at
+the trick, rushed forward to slaughter the men, but the Duke stepped
+between and said:
+
+"No, put up your swords--a prince's word is inviolable."
+
+When we got back to the hotel, King Arthur's Round Table was ready for
+us in its white drapery, and the head waiter and his first assistant, in
+swallow-tails and white cravats, brought in the soup and the hot plates
+at once.
+
+Mr. X had ordered the dinner, and when the wine came on, he picked up
+a bottle, glanced at the label, and then turned to the grave, the
+melancholy, the sepulchral head waiter and said it was not the sort of
+wine he had asked for. The head waiter picked up the bottle, cast his
+undertaker-eye on it and said:
+
+"It is true; I beg pardon." Then he turned on his subordinate and calmly
+said, "Bring another label."
+
+
+
+At the same time he slid the present label off with his hand and laid it
+aside; it had been newly put on, its paste was still wet. When the new
+label came, he put it on; our French wine being now turned into German
+wine, according to desire, the head waiter went blandly about his other
+duties, as if the working of this sort of miracle was a common and easy
+thing to him.
+
+Mr. X said he had not known, before, that there were people honest
+enough to do this miracle in public, but he was aware that thousands
+upon thousands of labels were imported into America from Europe every
+year, to enable dealers to furnish to their customers in a quiet and
+inexpensive way all the different kinds of foreign wines they might
+require.
+
+We took a turn around the town, after dinner, and found it fully as
+interesting in the moonlight as it had been in the daytime. The streets
+were narrow and roughly paved, and there was not a sidewalk or a
+street-lamp anywhere. The dwellings were centuries old, and vast enough
+for hotels. They widened all the way up; the stories projected further
+and further forward and aside as they ascended, and the long rows
+of lighted windows, filled with little bits of panes, curtained with
+figured white muslin and adorned outside with boxes of flowers, made a
+pretty effect.
+
+
+
+The moon was bright, and the light and shadow very strong; and nothing
+could be more picturesque than those curving streets, with their rows
+of huge high gables leaning far over toward each other in a friendly
+gossiping way, and the crowds below drifting through the alternating
+blots of gloom and mellow bars of moonlight. Nearly everybody was
+abroad, chatting, singing, romping, or massed in lazy comfortable
+attitudes in the doorways.
+
+In one place there was a public building which was fenced about with a
+thick, rusty chain, which sagged from post to post in a succession of
+low swings. The pavement, here, was made of heavy blocks of stone. In
+the glare of the moon a party of barefooted children were swinging on
+those chains and having a noisy good time. They were not the first ones
+who have done that; even their great-great-grandfathers had not been the
+first to do it when they were children. The strokes of the bare feet
+had worn grooves inches deep in the stone flags; it had taken many
+generations of swinging children to accomplish that.
+
+
+
+Everywhere in the town were the mold and decay that go with antiquity,
+and evidence of it; but I do not know that anything else gave us so
+vivid a sense of the old age of Heilbronn as those footworn grooves in
+the paving-stones.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+[My Long Crawl in the Dark]
+
+
+When we got back to the hotel I wound and set the pedometer and put
+it in my pocket, for I was to carry it next day and keep record of the
+miles we made. The work which we had given the instrument to do during
+the day which had just closed had not fatigued it perceptibly.
+
+We were in bed by ten, for we wanted to be up and away on our tramp
+homeward with the dawn. I hung fire, but Harris went to sleep at once.
+I hate a man who goes to sleep at once; there is a sort of indefinable
+something about it which is not exactly an insult, and yet is an
+insolence; and one which is hard to bear, too. I lay there fretting
+over this injury, and trying to go to sleep; but the harder I tried, the
+wider awake I grew. I got to feeling very lonely in the dark, with no
+company but an undigested dinner. My mind got a start by and by, and
+began to consider the beginning of every subject which has ever been
+thought of; but it never went further than the beginning; it was touch
+and go; it fled from topic to topic with a frantic speed. At the end of
+an hour my head was in a perfect whirl and I was dead tired, fagged out.
+
+The fatigue was so great that it presently began to make some head
+against the nervous excitement; while imagining myself wide awake, I
+would really doze into momentary unconsciousness, and come suddenly out
+of it with a physical jerk which nearly wrenched my joints apart--the
+delusion of the instant being that I was tumbling backward over a
+precipice. After I had fallen over eight or nine precipices and thus
+found out that one half of my brain had been asleep eight or nine times
+without the wide-awake, hard-working other half suspecting it, the
+periodical unconsciousnesses began to extend their spell gradually over
+more of my brain-territory, and at last I sank into a drowse which grew
+deeper and deeper and was doubtless just on the very point of being a
+solid, blessed dreamless stupor, when--what was that?
+
+My dulled faculties dragged themselves partly back to life and took a
+receptive attitude. Now out of an immense, a limitless distance, came
+a something which grew and grew, and approached, and presently was
+recognizable as a sound--it had rather seemed to be a feeling, before.
+This sound was a mile away, now--perhaps it was the murmur of a storm;
+and now it was nearer--not a quarter of a mile away; was it the muffled
+rasping and grinding of distant machinery? No, it came still nearer; was
+it the measured tramp of a marching troop? But it came nearer still,
+and still nearer--and at last it was right in the room: it was merely
+a mouse gnawing the woodwork. So I had held my breath all that time for
+such a trifle.
+
+
+
+Well, what was done could not be helped; I would go to sleep at once and
+make up the lost time. That was a thoughtless thought. Without intending
+it--hardly knowing it--I fell to listening intently to that sound, and
+even unconsciously counting the strokes of the mouse's nutmeg-grater.
+Presently I was deriving exquisite suffering from this employment, yet
+maybe I could have endured it if the mouse had attended steadily to
+his work; but he did not do that; he stopped every now and then, and I
+suffered more while waiting and listening for him to begin again than
+I did while he was gnawing. Along at first I was mentally offering a
+reward of five--six--seven--ten--dollars for that mouse; but toward
+the last I was offering rewards which were entirely beyond my means. I
+close-reefed my ears--that is to say, I bent the flaps of them down
+and furled them into five or six folds, and pressed them against the
+hearing-orifice--but it did no good: the faculty was so sharpened
+by nervous excitement that it was become a microphone and could hear
+through the overlays without trouble.
+
+My anger grew to a frenzy. I finally did what all persons before me have
+done, clear back to Adam,--resolved to throw something. I reached down
+and got my walking-shoes, then sat up in bed and listened, in order to
+exactly locate the noise. But I couldn't do it; it was as unlocatable as
+a cricket's noise; and where one thinks that that is, is always the very
+place where it isn't. So I presently hurled a shoe at random, and with
+a vicious vigor. It struck the wall over Harris's head and fell down on
+him; I had not imagined I could throw so far. It woke Harris, and I was
+glad of it until I found he was not angry; then I was sorry. He soon
+went to sleep again, which pleased me; but straightway the mouse began
+again, which roused my temper once more. I did not want to wake Harris
+a second time, but the gnawing continued until I was compelled to throw
+the other shoe.
+
+
+
+This time I broke a mirror--there were two in the room--I got the
+largest one, of course. Harris woke again, but did not complain, and
+I was sorrier than ever. I resolved that I would suffer all possible
+torture before I would disturb him a third time.
+
+The mouse eventually retired, and by and by I was sinking to sleep, when
+a clock began to strike; I counted till it was done, and was about to
+drowse again when another clock began; I counted; then the two great
+RATHHAUS clock angels began to send forth soft, rich, melodious blasts
+from their long trumpets. I had never heard anything that was so lovely,
+or weird, or mysterious--but when they got to blowing the quarter-hours,
+they seemed to me to be overdoing the thing. Every time I dropped
+off for the moment, a new noise woke me. Each time I woke I missed my
+coverlet, and had to reach down to the floor and get it again.
+
+At last all sleepiness forsook me. I recognized the fact that I was
+hopelessly and permanently wide awake. Wide awake, and feverish and
+thirsty. When I had lain tossing there as long as I could endure it, it
+occurred to me that it would be a good idea to dress and go out in the
+great square and take a refreshing wash in the fountain, and smoke and
+reflect there until the remnant of the night was gone.
+
+I believed I could dress in the dark without waking Harris. I had
+banished my shoes after the mouse, but my slippers would do for a summer
+night. So I rose softly, and gradually got on everything--down to one
+sock. I couldn't seem to get on the track of that sock, any way I could
+fix it. But I had to have it; so I went down on my hands and knees, with
+one slipper on and the other in my hand, and began to paw gently around
+and rake the floor, but with no success. I enlarged my circle, and went
+on pawing and raking. With every pressure of my knee, how the floor
+creaked! and every time I chanced to rake against any article, it seemed
+to give out thirty-five or thirty-six times more noise than it would
+have done in the daytime. In those cases I always stopped and held
+my breath till I was sure Harris had not awakened--then I crept along
+again. I moved on and on, but I could not find the sock; I could not
+seem to find anything but furniture. I could not remember that there was
+much furniture in the room when I went to bed, but the place was alive
+with it now --especially chairs--chairs everywhere--had a couple of
+families moved in, in the mean time? And I never could seem to GLANCE on
+one of those chairs, but always struck it full and square with my head.
+My temper rose, by steady and sure degrees, and as I pawed on and on, I
+fell to making vicious comments under my breath.
+
+
+
+Finally, with a venomous access of irritation, I said I would leave
+without the sock; so I rose up and made straight for the door--as I
+supposed--and suddenly confronted my dim spectral image in the unbroken
+mirror. It startled the breath out of me, for an instant; it also showed
+me that I was lost, and had no sort of idea where I was. When I realized
+this, I was so angry that I had to sit down on the floor and take hold
+of something to keep from lifting the roof off with an explosion of
+opinion. If there had been only one mirror, it might possibly have
+helped to locate me; but there were two, and two were as bad as a
+thousand; besides, these were on opposite sides of the room. I could see
+the dim blur of the windows, but in my turned-around condition they were
+exactly where they ought not to be, and so they only confused me instead
+of helping me.
+
+I started to get up, and knocked down an umbrella; it made a noise
+like a pistol-shot when it struck that hard, slick, carpetless floor;
+I grated my teeth and held my breath--Harris did not stir. I set the
+umbrella slowly and carefully on end against the wall, but as soon as
+I took my hand away, its heel slipped from under it, and down it came
+again with another bang. I shrunk together and listened a moment in
+silent fury--no harm done, everything quiet. With the most painstaking
+care and nicety, I stood the umbrella up once more, took my hand away,
+and down it came again.
+
+I have been strictly reared, but if it had not been so dark and solemn
+and awful there in that lonely, vast room, I do believe I should have
+said something then which could not be put into a Sunday-school book
+without injuring the sale of it. If my reasoning powers had not been
+already sapped dry by my harassments, I would have known better than to
+try to set an umbrella on end on one of those glassy German floors in
+the dark; it can't be done in the daytime without four failures to one
+success. I had one comfort, though--Harris was yet still and silent--he
+had not stirred.
+
+The umbrella could not locate me--there were four standing around the
+room, and all alike. I thought I would feel along the wall and find the
+door in that way. I rose up and began this operation, but raked down
+a picture. It was not a large one, but it made noise enough for a
+panorama. Harris gave out no sound, but I felt that if I experimented
+any further with the pictures I should be sure to wake him. Better give
+up trying to get out. Yes, I would find King Arthur's Round Table once
+more--I had already found it several times--and use it for a base of
+departure on an exploring tour for my bed; if I could find my bed I
+could then find my water pitcher; I would quench my raging thirst and
+turn in. So I started on my hands and knees, because I could go faster
+that way, and with more confidence, too, and not knock down things. By
+and by I found the table--with my head--rubbed the bruise a little, then
+rose up and started, with hands abroad and fingers spread, to balance
+myself. I found a chair; then a wall; then another chair; then a sofa;
+then an alpenstock, then another sofa; this confounded me, for I had
+thought there was only one sofa. I hunted up the table again and took a
+fresh start; found some more chairs.
+
+It occurred to me, now, as it ought to have done before, that as the
+table was round, it was therefore of no value as a base to aim from; so
+I moved off once more, and at random among the wilderness of chairs and
+sofas--wandering off into unfamiliar regions, and presently knocked a
+candlestick and knocked off a lamp, grabbed at the lamp and knocked
+off a water pitcher with a rattling crash, and thought to myself,
+"I've found you at last--I judged I was close upon you." Harris shouted
+"murder," and "thieves," and finished with "I'm absolutely drowned."
+
+The crash had roused the house. Mr. X pranced in, in his long
+night-garment, with a candle, young Z after him with another candle; a
+procession swept in at another door, with candles and lanterns--landlord
+and two German guests in their nightgowns and a chambermaid in hers.
+
+I looked around; I was at Harris's bed, a Sabbath-day's journey from my
+own. There was only one sofa; it was against the wall; there was only
+one chair where a body could get at it--I had been revolving around it
+like a planet, and colliding with it like a comet half the night.
+
+
+
+I explained how I had been employing myself, and why. Then the
+landlord's party left, and the rest of us set about our preparations for
+breakfast, for the dawn was ready to break. I glanced furtively at my
+pedometer, and found I had made 47 miles. But I did not care, for I had
+come out for a pedestrian tour anyway.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+[Rafting Down the Neckar]
+
+
+When the landlord learned that I and my agents were artists, our party
+rose perceptibly in his esteem; we rose still higher when he learned
+that we were making a pedestrian tour of Europe.
+
+He told us all about the Heidelberg road, and which were the best places
+to avoid and which the best ones to tarry at; he charged me less than
+cost for the things I broke in the night; he put up a fine luncheon
+for us and added to it a quantity of great light-green plums, the
+pleasantest fruit in Germany; he was so anxious to do us honor that he
+would not allow us to walk out of Heilbronn, but called up Goetz von
+Berlichingen's horse and cab and made us ride.
+
+I made a sketch of the turnout. It is not a Work, it is only what
+artists call a "study"--a thing to make a finished picture from. This
+sketch has several blemishes in it; for instance, the wagon is not
+traveling as fast as the horse is. This is wrong. Again, the person
+trying to get out of the way is too small; he is out of perspective,
+as we say. The two upper lines are not the horse's back, they are the
+reigns; there seems to be a wheel missing--this would be corrected in a
+finished Work, of course. This thing flying out behind is not a flag,
+it is a curtain. That other thing up there is the sun, but I didn't get
+enough distance on it. I do not remember, now, what that thing is that
+is in front of the man who is running, but I think it is a haystack or a
+woman. This study was exhibited in the Paris Salon of 1879, but did not
+take any medal; they do not give medals for studies.
+
+
+
+We discharged the carriage at the bridge. The river was full of
+logs--long, slender, barkless pine logs--and we leaned on the rails
+of the bridge, and watched the men put them together into rafts. These
+rafts were of a shape and construction to suit the crookedness and
+extreme narrowness of the Neckar. They were from fifty to one hundred
+yards long, and they gradually tapered from a nine-log breadth at their
+sterns, to a three-log breadth at their bow-ends. The main part of the
+steering is done at the bow, with a pole; the three-log breadth there
+furnishes room for only the steersman, for these little logs are not
+larger around than an average young lady's waist. The connections of the
+several sections of the raft are slack and pliant, so that the raft
+may be readily bent into any sort of curve required by the shape of the
+river.
+
+The Neckar is in many places so narrow that a person can throw a dog
+across it, if he has one; when it is also sharply curved in such places,
+the raftsman has to do some pretty nice snug piloting to make the turns.
+The river is not always allowed to spread over its whole bed--which is
+as much as thirty, and sometimes forty yards wide--but is split into
+three equal bodies of water, by stone dikes which throw the main
+volume, depth, and current into the central one. In low water these neat
+narrow-edged dikes project four or five inches above the surface, like
+the comb of a submerged roof, but in high water they are overflowed. A
+hatful of rain makes high water in the Neckar, and a basketful produces
+an overflow.
+
+There are dikes abreast the Schloss Hotel, and the current is violently
+swift at that point. I used to sit for hours in my glass cage, watching
+the long, narrow rafts slip along through the central channel, grazing
+the right-bank dike and aiming carefully for the middle arch of the
+stone bridge below; I watched them in this way, and lost all this time
+hoping to see one of them hit the bridge-pier and wreck itself sometime
+or other, but was always disappointed. One was smashed there one
+morning, but I had just stepped into my room a moment to light a pipe,
+so I lost it.
+
+While I was looking down upon the rafts that morning in Heilbronn, the
+daredevil spirit of adventure came suddenly upon me, and I said to my
+comrades:
+
+"I am going to Heidelberg on a raft. Will you venture with me?"
+
+Their faces paled a little, but they assented with as good a grace as
+they could. Harris wanted to cable his mother--thought it his duty to
+do that, as he was all she had in this world--so, while he attended to
+this, I went down to the longest and finest raft and hailed the captain
+with a hearty "Ahoy, shipmate!" which put us upon pleasant terms at
+once, and we entered upon business. I said we were on a pedestrian tour
+to Heidelberg, and would like to take passage with him. I said this
+partly through young Z, who spoke German very well, and partly through
+Mr. X, who spoke it peculiarly. I can UNDERSTAND German as well as the
+maniac that invented it, but I TALK it best through an interpreter.
+
+The captain hitched up his trousers, then shifted his quid thoughtfully.
+Presently he said just what I was expecting he would say--that he had no
+license to carry passengers, and therefore was afraid the law would be
+after him in case the matter got noised about or any accident happened.
+So I CHARTERED the raft and the crew and took all the responsibilities
+on myself.
+
+
+
+With a rattling song the starboard watch bent to their work and hove
+the cable short, then got the anchor home, and our bark moved off with a
+stately stride, and soon was bowling along at about two knots an hour.
+
+Our party were grouped amidships. At first the talk was a little gloomy,
+and ran mainly upon the shortness of life, the uncertainty of it, the
+perils which beset it, and the need and wisdom of being always prepared
+for the worst; this shaded off into low-voiced references to the dangers
+of the deep, and kindred matters; but as the gray east began to redden
+and the mysterious solemnity and silence of the dawn to give place
+to the joy-songs of the birds, the talk took a cheerier tone, and our
+spirits began to rise steadily.
+
+Germany, in the summer, is the perfection of the beautiful, but nobody
+has understood, and realized, and enjoyed the utmost possibilities of
+this soft and peaceful beauty unless he has voyaged down the Neckar on
+a raft. The motion of a raft is the needful motion; it is gentle,
+and gliding, and smooth, and noiseless; it calms down all feverish
+activities, it soothes to sleep all nervous hurry and impatience; under
+its restful influence all the troubles and vexations and sorrows that
+harass the mind vanish away, and existence becomes a dream, a charm,
+a deep and tranquil ecstasy. How it contrasts with hot and perspiring
+pedestrianism, and dusty and deafening railroad rush, and tedious
+jolting behind tired horses over blinding white roads!
+
+We went slipping silently along, between the green and fragrant banks,
+with a sense of pleasure and contentment that grew, and grew, all the
+time. Sometimes the banks were overhung with thick masses of willows
+that wholly hid the ground behind; sometimes we had noble hills on one
+hand, clothed densely with foliage to their tops, and on the other hand
+open levels blazing with poppies, or clothed in the rich blue of
+the corn-flower; sometimes we drifted in the shadow of forests, and
+sometimes along the margin of long stretches of velvety grass, fresh and
+green and bright, a tireless charm to the eye. And the birds!--they were
+everywhere; they swept back and forth across the river constantly, and
+their jubilant music was never stilled.
+
+It was a deep and satisfying pleasure to see the sun create the new
+morning, and gradually, patiently, lovingly, clothe it on with splendor
+after splendor, and glory after glory, till the miracle was complete.
+How different is this marvel observed from a raft, from what it is when
+one observes it through the dingy windows of a railway-station in some
+wretched village while he munches a petrified sandwich and waits for the
+train.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's A Tramp Abroad, by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens)
+
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