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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..52efbad --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #56103 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/56103) diff --git a/old/56103-0.txt b/old/56103-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index eccd548..0000000 --- a/old/56103-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1633 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Lloyd's Treatise on Hats, by Robert Lloyd - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Lloyd's Treatise on Hats - With Twenty-Four Engravings; Containing Novel Delineations - of His Various Shapes, Shewing the Manner in Which They - Should Be Worn... - -Author: Robert Lloyd - -Release Date: December 2, 2017 [EBook #56103] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LLOYD'S TREATISE ON HATS *** - - - - -Produced by ellinora, Barry Abrahamsen and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - LLOYD’S - - _TREATISE ON HATS_, - - WITH - - TWENTY-FOUR ENGRAVINGS; - - CONTAINING - - NOVEL DELINEATIONS OF HIS VARIOUS SHAPES, SHEWING THE MANNER IN WHICH - THEY SHOULD BE WORN, THE SORT OF FACE AND PERSON BEST SUITED TO EACH - PARTICULAR HAT, AND RULES FOR THEIR PRESERVATION; TO WHICH IS ADDED, - THE WHOLE PROCESS OF HAT-MAKING; TOGETHER WITH THE CUSTOMS AND - REGULATIONS OF JOURNEYMEN HATTERS, AND OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION. - - - ---------------------------- - - _Dedicated, with Permission, to the Head._ - - ---------------------------- - - - SECOND EDITION. - - _LONDON_: - - PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR, - _By F. Thorowgood, 9, Addle-Street, Aldermanbury_. - - --- - - 1819. - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - PREFACE. - - ------- - - -TO what trifles do some men owe a perpetuation of their “_famous -memory_.” There is Nimrod, for instance, not but what he may have had -other and _greater_ merits, yet he is best known as a “_mighty hunter_,” -and one who “wore _boots_;” now, allowing the relation to be true, and -that he _did_ hunt, and he _did_ wear boots, is there anything -extraordinary attaching to either, unless indeed, it could be proved -that he had _wooden legs_, or that he was capable of sitting on the -backs of two or more animals at one time; and if such were not the case, -the simple fact of itself was never worth recording; as well may it be -said, a thousand years hence, that LLOYD _was a great Hatmaker, and -lived in a great City_. - -But possibly the hunting system of this _old gentleman_ differed -materially from the pastime of our modern _Tally-ho’s_, and instead of -running after _hares_, _snipes_, and _conies_, Nimrod’s sport was on the -_field of battle_; in whose days the most rational idea is, that all was -_game_ which caused pursuits, and all pursuits _hunting_: If it were not -so, and his majesty’s capability only extended to the _riding_ upon a -_horse’s back_, there is not a butcher’s boy, in any country village -between BERWICK and ST. IVES, that would not have ridden Nimrod’s _rump_ -off. But it may be asked by those whose inclinations and patience shall -lead them to hunt through the following pages, whether this is what it -professes to be, a PREFACE, which is supposed to explain, or prepare the -mind for something to come; the answer to which is as follows: A horse -that will not _go_ without another being led before him, is not worth -_riding_, and if what is herein written requires a Preface to render it -_intelligible_, it is not worth the _reading_. - - _May, 1819._ - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - JOHN BULL. - - -THE greatest difficulty a painter has professionally to encounter is to -produce a striking resemblance of a countenance where there are no -striking features: just so with the Hat called “JOHN BULL.” It has no -marked style of peculiarity in the formation; but, independent of the -_fine texture_, there is in it a combination of rare qualities not often -met with: for instance—it has in appearance strong marks of becoming -gravity—a bold but manly dignity—a pleasing diffidence, with a -conscious, yet unassuming importance—and is recommended to persons -somewhat robust in form, features full and round, with a complexion not -too dark. In wearing, it should neither be placed aside, thrown too far -back, nor brought particularly forward over the face, for the following -reasons—the first position would bespeak an air of _non challance_—the -second a sort of slovenly neglect in the person—and the third an -incommunicative sullenness of disposition. - - - THE WELLINGTON. - - -SO called from the great Hero; not for the popularity of the name alone, -but for the reason that such a Hat was actually worn by him; and, in -fact, it is a shape uncommonly well suited both to his face and person; -the former being a sort of _long oval_, and the latter without the least -appearance of _bulk_: indeed a ponderous body, tall or short, with a -round, or what is vulgarly termed a pudding face, cannot judiciously -shelter itself under a Wellington. This Hat is not only particularly -_becoming_ the _person_ of his Grace, but there is that in its -appearance which is strongly characteristic of his great mind; for, to -an excellently formed crown of about seven inches deep, overspreading an -inch at top, there is united a fine arched brim of small dimensions, -taking a smartish sweep of the fourth part of a circle, and when placed -on the head somewhat _a la Francais_, carries with it an uncommon degree -of brilliancy and fire: and the fore and hind parts terminating in a -close _point_, clearly shows that, whether _advancing_ or _retreating_, -this modern CÆSAR is always sure to _carry_ his point. - - - THE TANDEM. - - -This is a Hat wherein is displayed a good deal of what may be termed -_character;_ for which reason, its _becoming_ wearers, comparatively -speaking, will be few in number; but notwithstanding this _marked_ -peculiarity, there is a sort of _style_ in its general feature which is -uncommonly _striking;_ nor is there any form whatever, where so much of -that airy lightness is to be seen, as in the Tandem. Few persons over -_thirty_ become this Hat, and none under _twenty_, and even _between_ -those ages, if the head be more than twenty-two inches, or less than -twenty-one and a half in circumference, the whole effect is destroyed. -Shape of the face immaterial, provided the complexion is not _too_ -dingy; but, above all things, neither _overgrown_ or little _fat_ -gentlemen should wear the Tandem. To have the best effect when on the -head, it should be placed rather forward, inclining a little to one -side. - - - THE TALLY-HO. - - -A very comfortable and convenient hunting Hat, partaking in some degree -the natural formation of the head: has many advantages over the old -fashioned cap; is _light_, though strong—_porous_, which allows the heat -of the head, arising from exertion, to fly off—and _elastic_, the effect -of which is to sit close without pressure; but, above all, it has a most -gentlemanly appearance, which it never fails to communicate to the -wearer, particularly if he be a true sportsman. - - - THE SHALLOW. - - -A Hat more admired for the ease and simplicity of style than for any -peculiar character in its general appearance; being low in the crown, it -is worn to most advantage by tall thin gentlemen with very large heads; -and as the fore and hind part of the brim is _set_ nearly horizontal -from the base of the crown, it has two great advantages; the first of -which is, that it may be conveniently worn over a wig; and, secondly, if -worn _without_, the shirt collar is kept clean much longer than usual. -This Hat, to have its proper effect, should be placed on the head with a -strict _formality of set_, which in many persons will beget an air of -_importance_. N. B. The late Justice Addington generally wore a shallow. - - - THE COBURG. - - -FOR _style_ and _form_ has strong claims to favour; but, being rather -small in appearance, the wearer, to show to most advantage, should be -somewhat slender in his make, features not too prominent, and in stature -about five feet five to five feet ten, but neither _above_ nor _below_. -One great advantage attending this Hat is, that the shape of the -wearer’s _nose_ is not at all material, provided it be not of that class -known by the term “bottled.” It may be worn a little aside, but by no -means placed too far on the head, a failing very general among _country_ -gentlemen. - - - THE MARQUIS. - - -A well-proportioned Hat in every respect, and may, not inaptly, be -termed the _Universal_, as it becomes most persons who wear it; in point -of form, there is nothing of what may be called _character_ or -_singularity_ in its appearance, and has the rare property of giving to -the _wearer_ a sort of dignified affability, a courteous condescension, -together with an agreeable modesty, at least in _appearance_. It is -named after a certain nobleman, who has all the above qualities united, -although in the _prime of life_. To show to advantage on the head, this -Hat should not go lower than the tip of the ears, both of which it may -barely touch, unless the wearer has a short neck, in that case it must -be worn somewhat aside, touching one ear only, but by no means to be -_thrown back_. - - - THE ECCENTRIC. - - -_Unique_ in its way, strongly embodying the name in its _form_. This Hat -is particularly recommended to gentlemen (and many are to be found) who -hold their understandings libelled by acting, thinking, speaking, or -dressing like _other men_; but, it must be observed, that slender -persons with _dark_ countenances, and about the middle size, best become -these Hats: for, however eccentric a man would wish to appear, by -adopting any _peculiar_ mode of dress, he never can hope to succeed -unless nature has done a _little_ for him; it follows then of course, -that a tall or short man, if he be stout and well grown, with a fine -open florid countenance, cannot cleverly become an _Eccentric_; but an -_agreeable_ contorsion of the eye, a trifling disagreement in the -symmetry of the shoulders, or a slight _bias_ of the body _right_ or -_left_, are indescribable advantages in giving full effect to this Hat, -which may be worn a little on one side, with a gentle inclination over -the eyes, unless they are playing at cross purposes, in the event of -which it must be thrown quite back, to give effect to their _playful -humour_. - - - THE REGENT. - - -A finely-formed and most decidedly elegant Hat: is somewhat upon a large -scale, the crown being upwards of seven inches high, much yeoman, with -an excellently turned and corresponding brim, producing together a happy -union of the nicest proportions: It is worn to most advantage by persons -whose height and bulk are above the common stature; not that it is meant -to be understood, that every athletic or robust form would _become_ a -Regent; on the contrary, there is not a shape in the whole catalogue -that demands in the wearer a greater share of _external requisites_ than -this; even the very _gait_ is concerned, which, to strike, should be -stately and firm, though easy, each step measuring exactly half the -length of the whole body—more would become an absolute _stride_—and less -a mere _strut_; than which nothing can be farther removed from graceful -_carriage_: Be it understood, also, that the Regent is most becoming -when placed a little on the _right_ side, but by no means to come -_within_ half an inch of the ear—unless the latter should exceed its -fair dimensions—in that case it were best hid altogether; but then, to -do this, the Hat is forced beyond the proper position, and what was -intended as ornament, becomes the very reverse: So circumstanced, the -Noble Lord, the Shallow, or the John Bull, might be worn to most -advantage; but when Nature has been a little attentive to the minuter -parts, as well as the greater proportions of manly exterior, the Regent -cannot fail to give additional dignity to the wearer; creating thereby a -combination of elegancies that must render his appearance absolutely -IRRESISTIBLE. - - - THE KENT. - - -A very gentlemanly Hat, and although there is not the dignity of the -Regent about it, there is, notwithstanding, much to admire: Indeed, the -scale of proportions are very similar in both; the only _real_ -difference existing in the _crown_, which is about one-half of an inch -lower than the latter; and, in the _nautical phraseology_, may not -inaptly be termed a Regent cut down. It is very singular, and worth -remarking, that trifling as the Kent differs from the Regent in actual -measurement, the contrariety of effect, when on the head, is great and -striking; which unquestionably proves, that a very slight deviation from -a given rule will produce results more opposed to each other than the -deviation is to the rule itself. The style in which this Hat should be -worn is as follows:—if the head be of an _oval_ form, place it thereon, -as near as possible, in an horizontal position; but if a _round_ head -(which of all descriptions is most dreaded by a _castermonger_) let the -Hat be thrown a _little_ back, with a slight inclination on the side -most agreeable, which will tend to prevent its assuming that -_trencher_-like appearance too common from such causes. The _personal_ -requisites suitable to the Kent, may be found on referring to the -Cobourg; with this difference, that, as the brim is of larger -dimensions, the wearer, if he pleases, may be six feet high. - - - THE CUMBERLAND. - - -THIS Hat, in outline and symmetry, is highly prepossessing, and will -always have a number of admirers. The formation, dimensions, and style -of the brim, are similar to the Regent and the Kent; but the crown is -_taper_ and much _shallower_ than either. It should be worn as nearly -horizontal as possible; and, if the wearer be of the middle stature, or -above, his bulk or countenance is immaterial. - - - THE VIS-A-VIS. - - -A remarkably STYLISH HAT, possessing great and _peculiar_ advantages -over most others, on which account its claims to patronage are of the -highest order. The brim, before as well as behind, being brought down -quite square, and almost in a perpendicular line with the crown itself, -gives the wearer an opportunity of observing things _en passant_, by a -sort of side-glance, without being _seen_ so to do; thus, it is well -adapted for gentlemen who would fain indulge in the most exquisite -admiration of the beauteous _fair_: but by reason of their extreme -_modesty_, shrink from the trial: There is, also, another and a very -important consideration, which cannot be allowed to pass unnoticed—it is -a well-known truth, that there are certain situations in life where the -falling into is not at all times to be avoided; the result of which is, -to create in the imagination, a perpetual apprehension lest some -villainous intruder should, in defiance of eloquence or inclination, -_compel_ the _acceptance_ of his official or rather _officious_ -attendance: to counteract so dirty a custom, as well as to nip the -system in the very _bud_, this Hat is most admirably contrived—for by a -simple elevation of the hinder part, the front may be brought so far -over the face, as to form a complete shade for the countenance. Here -then is the attainment of two _great_ ends—modesty encouraged, and -impertinence restrained. Lastly, and not the least of its useful -purposes is, that should the introduction of the Vis-a-Vis become -general, those novel and graceful evolutions of the body, denominated -the _bend_, the _flutter_, and the _poke_, may be performed in a much -smaller space than usual, and without the least danger to the eyes, -which is greatly to be feared, when the distinguished votaries, in the -eager performance of these newly-imported civilities, are brought too -abruptly _face to face_. - -Although there is much of the _dash_ in this Hat, it has, -notwithstanding, a sort of _sombre_ appearance, which calls on the -wearer for a _figure_ and _countenance_ to correspond; it is therefore, -if _ornamentally_ considered, recommended to such only, whose complexion -is of a darkish hue, visage long, not over bulky in person, and _above_ -the middle size; but, if _usefully_ considered, all the nicer -distinctions must yield to imperious necessity. - - - THE PETERSHAM. - - -A connoisseur examining a fine painting, was asked by a bye-stander, -which part he most admired; his answer was, “_no part_.” “What!” -observed the other, “is it possible that so highly talented a production -as this is acknowledged to be, can have no merits in your estimation?” -To which the connoisseur replied—“Sir, a work so masterly in -execution—so striking in effect—so perfect in _all_ its parts, cannot be -truly estimated but as a _whole_.” Here, then, the _picture_ is the -_Petersham_—the _selection_ of beauties therein, the _difficulty_: To -get rid of which, be it sufficient to state, that the prominent feature -in this Hat is elegance of _style_, strongly visible in all its parts, -and each part in unison with the whole; which for _tonish_ and exquisite -_dash_ has no competitor. It will be seen, from what is here stated, -that, much as this Hat is capable of transfusing its _graces_ to the -wearer (and who can doubt it), some _little_ attention to _personal_ -requisites is necessary—which, in stature, should be over five feet -seven, and not too lusty; countenance or complexion is of little -consequence; but the visage should be oval, such corresponding -uncommonly well with the fine _arched_ brim, which forms nearly -two-fifths of a circle; and, when tastefully placed on the head, with a -slight inclination over the face, so as to bring the _fore_ point on a -line with the _tip_ of the nose, such will be the result, that, whatever -difficulty may attend a just description of its astonishing effects, the -advantages to a wearer will most assuredly be FELT. - - - THE TILBURY. - - -THIS Hat is bold in appearance, but full of _character_: Indeed, there -is so much of the _whip_ in its general outline, that it can never, with -propriety, be worn but as a _driving_ Hat. - - - THE BANG-UP. - - -WHAT a pleasing reflection it is, all things considered, that near as -the human _form_ may approach to perfection, still that form is capable -of being _improved_ by ingenuity; but then, the difficulty is to decide -on what really _are improvements_: for instance, some will admire a fine -slope in the coat _skirts_, tapering off like the tail of a goose; some -(whether or no to catch the manners of a _hoyden_) will put on the -_frock_; others, again, admire the _pantaloon_; and many give a decided -preference to _inexpressibles_. But the _Bang-up_, as a Hat, is the very -master-piece of inventive taste, wherein all admiration must of -necessity _centre_, having not only in its general appearance a bold and -manly _front_, but a pleasing harmony of parts, all tending to produce -an agreeable union of _taste_ and _utility_; who then would mount the -“_box_” without being decorated with its chiefest ornament? - - - THE CLERICUS. - - -A very CONTEMPLATIVE, SEDATE, PIOUS-LOOKING HAT, much worn by -Police-Officers, Quack-Doctors, and Clergymen; this, it may be said, is -a strange assemblage of _characters_ to bring under _one head_, and some -may hold the _association_ to be a reflection on the _latter_, when in -truth the very _opposite_ is intended; in proof of which it is only -necessary to observe that, where the attainment of an object depends on -_outward show_, such contrivances will be resorted to as are best -calculated to secure the object in view; and the very _assumption_ of -the habit here spoken of by the “traps” and “quacks” of the day, is -evidence of the habit itself being in the _highest possible estimation_. -If taken in an _ornamental_ point of view, it would be no easy task to -decide on its merits; but if _usefully_ considered, the conclusion is -plain and easy. It is an admitted fact, that an idea of dignity cannot -embody itself with _little things_, hence the custom of wearing _large -wigs_, for such doubtless these Hats were originally intended, and for -this reason, the hinder part being drawn up with loops in two places, no -peruke, however large its dimensions, can receive the least injury; in -short, it may be worn under this Hat with as little discomfiture to the -_intricate friz_ as though it were absolutely on the very block itself: -here then is produced what may be termed a happy union of wisdom and -piety, inasmuch as it is allowed, when speaking of high legal -characters, that the _wisdom_ is in the _wig_, and by the same rule -(when Clericus is worn by a Divine) the _piety_ must be in the _Hat_. -The style of putting on will greatly depend on the size of the _peruke_, -without which it should never be worn, particularly if the hair be _lank -and black_. - - - THE BON-TON. - - -IN point of form and fine proportions, this Hat cannot fail to rank high -in general estimation. Its appearance very much resembles the -Wellington, or rather it is between the Wellington and the Marquis; and, -like the latter, there is that becoming _style_, which not only -_harmonizes_, but gives a _peculiar grace_ to the majority of its -wearers. - - - THE BARONET. - - -THIS is a Hat highly respectable in appearance, and well suited to -gentlemen in the _decline_ of life; but as that is a state to which few -will acknowledge while there is a capability of _hobbling without a -crutch_, something definite had better be stated by giving the precise -age;—take it then at _fifty_, which will put all doubts at rest. The -reason for fixing on the Baronet, as suitable to those in declining -years, is its grave, reflecting, methodical cast, such as would seem to -say of the _wearer_—“Here is one that possesses a serenity of mind, an -easy indifference of disposition, a tranquillity of thought, which would -quietly disentangle itself from the vain, shadowy, fleeting desires of -this life, and leave no regret behind.” There are many other -recommendatory properties in this Hat, but those already particularized -are the most valuable; yes, _valuable_,—for it is a well-known fact, -that mankind are often made up of contrivance, that is, they frequently -give to _appearance_ the shape of _reality_;—and however strange the -doctrine may at first appear, it is nevertheless true, that the custom -is often attended with very _beneficial results_, inasmuch as by -_endeavouring_ to maintain an _apparent_ consistency between _habit_ and -_action_, the _propriety_ of doing right becomes so strongly impressed -on the mind, that the villainy of a bad practice is seen in its _worst -deformity_, and conscience, the unerring monitor of the mind, rides -triumphant over all. These are recommendations of no ordinary nature, -and such that will no doubt cause much inquiry after the _Baronet_. As -to growth or countenance, there is an old saying, that “beggars should -not be choosers;” and the wearer, if he becomes so from _necessity_, -will feel the propriety of leaving choice out of the question. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - -[Illustration: _Engraved for_ =Lloyd’s= _treatise on Hats._ - -_John Bull. The Cobourg. The Baron. Clericus. The New Dash. The Shallow. - -The Cumberland. The Viz-a-viz. The Eccentric. The Wellington. A Noble -Lord. The Tandem. - -The Marquis. The Tally-ho. The Bang-up. Baronet. The Paris Beau. The Bon -Ton. - -A bit of Blood. The Jolliffe. The Dandy. The Regent. The Irresistible. -The Petersham. - -Designed by R. Lloyd, Hat Maker, No. 92, Newgate-Street._] - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - THE JOLLIFFE. - - -A mind which is struck, through the medium of sight, with impressions of -sublimity, will have those impressions strengthened in proportion as the -_magnitude_ of the object viewed is the greater, and as all things are -but great or small _comparatively_, it follows, of course, that bodies -of the same class, description, or affinity, which are _less_ than the -_largest_, must suffer, when brought into the scale of comparison with -their superiors: agreeably to these rules, the JOLLIFFE, whose -dimensions exceed all others, comes forward with strong claims to -patronage, for besides the importance with which it never fails to -strike every beholder, it is sure to convey a corresponding importance -to the WEARER. Here then are considerations which should not be trifled -with, particularly as the _assumption_ of a thing is often taken for the -thing itself—nay, are there not situations in life where _appearances_ -become so vitally important that it would be little short of criminality -not to _put them on_? and where the attainment of great ends may be -insured by nothing more than a simple attention to the _formation_ of a -_Hat_, it would be worse than folly to neglect the means. Rightly taken, -what a multiplicity of persons might be benefitted by the above _hints_; -Princes, Peers, and Plenipotentiaries; Senators, State-ministers, or -Trading Politicians;—all—all may find their interest in the adoption of -the Jolliffe; and that these great personages may not plead ignorance as -to the manner in which it should be worn with the best effect, here -follow the proper instructions. - -If a PRINCE, let it be _lightly_ placed on the head, and a little -_aside_, which _bespeaks a sort of cheerful approving_ confidence in -one’s own actions.—If a PEER, it should be worn in a firm horizontal -position, just covering half the forehead; which gives the appearance of -a wise and steady determination where great questions are agitated, -particularly when they become _self_ interesting.—If an AMBASSADOR, it -may be thrown a _little back_, inclining somewhat aside; such position -indicating a bold and careless indifference to all around, which will be -taken for granted that such could not arise from any other cause than a -total disregard for the _result_ of his mission; a practice, although -not often hit on, may have many advantages. As to the three _latter_ -characters, their pursuits having all the same end—POPULARITY—let them -consult the style of the Prince, and remember that, in whomsoever -confidence has credit, popularity is sure to follow. - - -------------- - -⸪ As the Jolliffe is not likely to be worn unless for _special -purposes_, to give an idea who would best become it is unnecessary. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - THE FOUR-IN-HAND. - - A modern-styled _whip_, - Howe’er he may dip - Into fashion’s wide vortex his _pinions_, - To make a bold stand, - LLOYD’S prime _Four-in-Hand_ - Must cover his _upper dominions_. - - For ease, form, and _set_, - The like never yet - Was seen, at least so run opinions; - Then ye four-in-hand whips, - In your _jarvey_-like trips - Take care of your _upper dominions_. - - _DIMENSIONS_. - - It measures, by rule, - Near three inches full - In the brim, with a crown wide at top; - Nor is there a _face_ - But what it will _grace_, - If purchased at LLOYD’S _fancy shop_. - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - A BIT OF BLOOD. - - -The term itself naturally implies a something upon a _small_ scale, -which is the fact, and although there is nothing of that imposing -dignity of style in the above Hat, which characterizes the _Regent_, the -_Petersham_, &c. there is a _lively_, _animated_, and _vigorous_ fire in -all its features, that will not allow of any falling off in the general -comparison. To give a complete catalogue of the many VIRTUES belonging -to _a bit of blood_, would exceed the allotted limits; but it cannot be -amiss to detail a few of the more _prominent_, that all, whose -necessities may bear to the point, should be _benefitted_ by the -_wearing_: First then, it is admirably calculated for those who are -about to ask _favors_, such being more readily _granted_ when they seem -the _less wanted_, and no one could suppose that the _saucy_ animation -which would be so strongly visible under this Hat could make the -application from NECESSITY. Secondly, it will be of singular advantage -to _elderly gentlemen_ in pursuit of _young wives_, who nine times in -ten decide on the choice of a man from the _cock_—of his Hat. Thirdly, -(not that there is much need of it for such a purpose now-a-days) its -advantages for those that are tormented with _dunns_ are incalculable, -for, by being placed pretty firm on the head, inclining rather to one -side, at the same time assuming a sharp _erect_ position of the body, a -stern direction of the eye, and arms _a-kimbo_, the devil himself, in -the shape of a _creditor_, would hardly hazard the REPETITION OF A -VISIT. - -_N. B._ No service to gentlemen of the _learned_ profession. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - THE - - _PROCESS_ - - OF - - HAT-MAKING - - EXPLAINED, - - WITH PREFATORY REMARKS, &c. &c. - - ------- - - -TURKS are said to assign as a reason for not wearing Hats, that they are -put together by _witchcraft_. There is certainly a great deal of -ingenuity in the practice, and some _effects_ produced whose _causes_ -are as yet unexplained: but, with all due deference to these _turban -gentlemen_, it is presumed that they have objections beyond what is -above stated, some of which are as follows:—_First_, their country is -destitute of the most essential material—FUR. _Second_, the climate -being extremely sultry, stoves, irons, and scalding water are not likely -to become favourites. _Thirdly_, being compelled by their religion to -keep their heads _close shaved_, a Hat, above all human inventions, -would be the most ridiculous covering _they_ could adopt. - -There are many opinions as to the time Hats were first invented, and, -very probably, all equally erroneous. Some carry the date as far back as -the foundation of Christianity, attributing the merit to St. Luke, of -whom it is said, that he, having tender feet, put a layer of hair or fur -between them and his sandals, in which situation friction and moisture -caused such an interweaving of particles, that the whole became strongly -united, or (technically called) FELTED. Whether the story, as applied to -Luke, be true or false, is immaterial; but that such did happen with -some one, is very likely; nor is it at all unlikely, but that an -occurrence of this kind did really give the first idea of Hat-making. -Having remarked thus much, I shall next proceed to state, what is not -the less true than surprising, which is, that of the various branches of -manufacture which this country is so highly distinguished for, none are -less understood than Hat-making; nay, there is not one person in fifty -who, if he were asked the question, could tell whether a Hat was or was -not a _woven_ substance; nor is there one in 500 but what suppose that -the _skin_ of a hare or rabbit is worked with the fur _attached_ to it, -as in the natural state; and, to form a correct judgment of the external -material, when manufactured, whether it be hair, wool, or beaver, -although many pretend, none are really competent but those _experienced_ -in the _trade_. - -To show the absurd notions some entertain on this matter, I state as a -fact, that I do not know a manufacturer or seller in the trade but what -has been applied to, by some one or other, to have a _Beaver_ Hat made -from a _hare_’s skin. Nay, I remember once offending a very good -customer, and a man not wanting for sense either, by an involuntary -burst of laughter, on his presenting the skin of a _French lap-dog_ for -the very same purpose. - -It is no uncommon thing for persons who are on pretty good terms with -their capabilities to give opinions as to the _merits_ or _demerits_ of -a Hat; which opinions are as opposite to the true state of the case as -the sun’s rays to a state of darkness. I shall give an instance, -although a trifling one, of a very common error among persons who -_suppose_ themselves to have a knowledge of the subject, which is this, -if the picker has not a very good eye, some of the larger hairs will be -left in the Hat, and consequently the most _visible_; these are directly -termed “_grey hairs_,” when the truth is, that they are the _blackest_ -in the whole composition; but being thicker than the general mass, they -receive a greater portion of _light_, which is mistaken for a grey -colour: an easy method of proving the fact is to pull one of these _grey -hairs_ from the Hat, and place it on a piece of white paper, the -_contrast_ will decide the question. - -Again, whatever produces a glutinization of the NAP, is said to be the -effect of the stiffening; this is not true in every case, for it is -frequently owing to improper management in placing the Hat, when wet, -before a large fire, which should never be done; the better way is, if -very wet, to hang it up without brushing or wiping, and when dry it is -easily put to rights, by gently passing over a clothes brush: if only -slightly wet, wipe it with a handkerchief, and, when dry, it will brush -clean. But the great fault with most persons is to put on their Hats, -day after day, in the same _dirty state_ as when taken off at night; -from which it is natural to infer, that there must be a vast -accumulation of dirt; it is this dirt, when exposed to the rain, that -forms a sort of cement, or paste, having all the appearance of what is -commonly called “_gum_.” - -Another proof of erroneous judgment—Profuse perspiration of the head is -what many are subject to; by reason of which, from the frequency of -wearing, and the _porosity_ of the Hat, there is a continual absorption -of moisture going on until it becomes completely _saturated_, -particularly in front, the consequence is, that the nap lies buried in a -greasy matter, which matter is also, but very inappropriately termed -_gum_ or _stiffening_, when in point of fact it is _neither_, for the -very same effect would, under the like circumstances, be produced, and -in much less time, if the Hat were not stiffened at all. The best remedy -for this is a piece of thin flannel under the leather, and that -frequently changed. - -There is nothing so detrimental to a Hat as a severe exposure to rain on -the first, second, or even third time of wearing; for this reason, the -materials wherewith it is composed are in a manner quite _green_, and -require _seasoning_; to effect which it should be frequently put on in -dry weather. I have always found that a Hat, constantly worn for five or -six weeks _without being wet_, underwent every sort of hardship -afterwards with little or no injury, retaining at the same time its -beauty—form—and wearing _three times longer_ than it otherwise would -have done. It may be asked, why not, to prevent accidents, render the -Hat _water-proof_? that is, impervious to the action of either -atmosphere or rain. The thing is easy enough, I admit; but where there -is a choice of only _two evils_, it is always best to select the -_least_. We all know (or should know) that if a man were to enclose -himself, arms, legs, and body, in what is called an _oil-skin dress_, -and that drawn close round the neck, the whole tightly fitted to every -part of his person as a Hat is to the head, the most unpleasant -consequences would ensue; the cause why is obviously this, the -exhalations of the body, particularly in a state of exertion, would when -so _enclosed_, be either prevented from flying off, as nature requires, -or otherwise checked altogether; precisely so with the head if the -porosity of the Hat was destroyed, which it must be to resist -effectually the action of water. This deduction must be so clear and -self-evident that further reasoning is unnecessary. Another great -objection against water-proof _Hats_ is, that the ingredients made use -of for such purposes, when exposed to the sun’s heat, are so acted upon -as to cause a _decomposition_ of the colour, and nine times in ten, the -Hat, before it is half worn out, becomes any thing but what it was meant -to be. - -It is astonishing to hear the number of qualifications a Hat is _said_ -to have, and each as opposite to the other as it is possible for any two -things to be; some, for instance, maintain that it cannot be good unless -it is _light_, others again will decidedly condemn it for _being so_, -insisting that the chief recommendation is its being firm and _stout_. -All that is requisite to be observed on this, is that _weight_ has no -more to do with the _quality_ of a Hat, than the situation of prime -minister has to do with the cramming of turkies. A very inferior Hat may -be made _equally light_ with the most superior, and in both cases the -cost of manufacture will be less than if they were made _stout_. - -The length of the beaver too is another point on which the difference of -opinion is often experienced; many are for very _short naps_, declaring -all others to be outrageously vulgar; but the majority of wearers seem -best pleased with _long_ naps, which always _take_ and _retain_ the best -_black_, while, on the contrary those that are very short never do. A -medium between the two is the most preferable. - -Having stated thus much, I shall next proceed to explain in what way a -fine Hat is _made_, describing as accurately as possible the various -processes it undergoes, as also the materials with which it is composed, -the proportions of each as well as the quantity of work a man is capable -of doing, whether _maker_ or _finisher_, in a week, the amount of wages, -together with some of the curious regulations, by-laws, &c. &c. &c. - -In the first place, as I shall have occasion to mention a few of the -_implements_ by name, a short description of them may not be amiss. - -There is the BOW, which in form is not unlike what is used for playing -on a _double bass_, but in length and thickness is equal to a -constable’s staff; there is a bridge at each end, from one to the other -of which is tightly strung a stout line of _catgut_. - -The HURDLE is situate in what is called the bow garret, and is a sort of -_table_, on which the _fur_ is bowed, or mixed, having the farther end -and sides enclosed to prevent the material from being blown away. - -The BATTERY is somewhat like the hopper of a mill, in this is contained -the hot _liquor_, and is mostly constructed for eight men, _round_ which -they stand when _making_; the lower part is lead, the upper or working -part mahogany. All batteries are formed into divisions called PLANKS, -one of which is allotted to each man. There are many other little things -used by makers, but these three are all that deserve particular notice. - -The first thing a maker looks for in the morning is the FUR, or raw -material, which is furnished to him by _weight_; the quantity being more -or less, according to the substance of the Hat required, and is in _two_ -parcels, one of which contains the BEAVER, or napping; the other the -BODY (a proportionate scale of both will be seen hereafter). Thus -provided he takes it to the BOW GARRET; the materials for the body are -first placed on the hurdle, and the bow being hung at the centre for -support, is held in the left hand horizontally, so that the catgut may -come in contact with the fur; in the _right_ hand is placed a small -piece of stick, with a _nut_ at the end, and in this position the work -begins after the following manner. The _catgut_ of the bow (being first -placed in the midst of the _fur_) is pulled or struck with the knotted -stick, which produces, from a quick repetition of the stroke, a -continued _vibration_, this _vibration_ it is that causes a separation -or _flitting_ of the fur, at the same time mixing and cleansing it. This -operation is continued until such ends are fully attained. It is next -divided into _halves_, one of which is laid aside, and the other again -bowed over. In this second operation the workman contrives, partly by -bowing, and partly by a slight _wicker frame_, to bring the material -into an oblong form, and equal in size to a large sheet of cartridge -paper; this is called a BAT, and when done it is gently _pressed down_ -by the _wicker_, after which a damp linen cloth is laid all over, and on -this again is placed a thick piece of dry HORSE HIDE; the workman now -begins to press hard on the hide for about five minutes; in the doing -this the fur adheres close to the damp cloth, into which it is _doubled -up_, and once more undergoes the pressure of the hand. Under this -operation (which is called BASONING) the _bat_ becomes _consolidated_, -and may be thrown, when taken out of the cloth, from one end of the -garret to the other without injury. The second half is next bowed, -formed into a _bat_, and _basoned_ as the first. This half _remains_ on -_the hurdle_, and a piece of _paper_, somewhat conical, is placed on it, -_over which_, and agreeable to the shape, the sides of the bat are -_doubled_. Here then is formed one half of the _body_, this is laid -aside, and the first bat is then put flat on the hurdle _on which_ the -one previously doubled is placed with its open part downwards; the lower -bat being transversely doubled over the top hat, forms a sort of -conical, or harlequin’s cap; in this state it is once more put into the -damp cloth, where it receives another hardening for the purpose of -uniting or _knitting_ both _bats_ together; after this it is folded into -the compass of _two hands_, ready for the _plank_. The next thing is the -_beaver_, or covering, which is bowed in _form_ to correspond with the -_body_, but has nothing to do with it in this stage. - -Matters being completed thus far, this is called the _first process of -Hat-making_. The second commences as follows:—The workman having gone -from the bow garret to the making shop, takes his stand at the battery, -under which is a FIRE, for the purpose of heating the liquor;[1] into -this hot liquor the _body_ is quickly _immersed_, where it remains till -soaked through; it is afterwards laid on the _plank_ to _drain_ and -_cool_; this done, it is unfolded, gently rolled, turned at short -intervals in every direction, to prevent the sides uniting together; and -as the _liquor_ becomes _cold_ and rolled out, it is continually -supplied with _hot_ and fresh, by the sprinkling of a _brush_, which is -dipped in the _kettle_ for that purpose; under this operation, assisted -by the astringency of the _vitriol_, the body _shrinks_, and begins to -assume a tough _substance_. When it has shrunk to a _certain size_ (say -three-fifths, if to be _double_ covered), it is laid flat on the -_plank_, and the _first_ coat of _beaver_, as it comes from the _bow_, -is laid quite over it; the _brush_ is now dipped into the hot liquor, -the contents of which is sprinkled all over the _beaver_, directly -afterwards it is gently _patted down_ with the hot brush; here the body -is put into a _hair-cloth_, rolled in hot liquor, turned inside out, -rolled again until the _beaver_, is completely worked into the body; -when this is effected, it is in a fit state to receive the _second_ -covering, which is put on as the first, the _working_, _turning_, -_patting_, and _rolling_ still continuing until it is reduced to a fit -dimension, the _beaver_ quite _clean_, and all together assuming a -closely _felted_, fine, solid piece of workmanship; after which it is -immediately _blocked_ in this same liquor, to the size wanted, and put -into a _stove_ to dry, from whence it is taken, and with a small fine -card the beaver is gently raised; without this, one half would lie -buried, and the beauty lost.—Here then is the complete PROCESS OF -HAT-MAKING. - -Footnote 1: - - The liquor, which is always kept up to _scalding_ heat, is nothing - more than clean soft water, with a wine glass of _vitriol_, and a - small quantity of beer dregs thrown in. The first is to _shrink_ the - body of the Hat in working; the other to destroy the _pernicious_ - effect of the vitriol. - -It is next sent to the DYER from whom it passes to the FINISHER, who, -after stiffening, blocking, and _half_ finishing, sends it to be picked, -which is performed by a woman, whose place it is to pull out the _kemps_ -or thick hairs, without injuring the beaver,[2] although that is not -always accomplished. From the _picker_ it returns to the finisher who, -by the IRON and velvet cushion, gives it those highly brilliant and -admired beauties that an English Hat is so pre-eminently distinguished -for. The shaper next takes it in hand, who is guided in his operations -by the _fancy_ of the wearer, if bespoke, which is sometimes a little -_whimsical_. After shaping, it goes to the _trimmer_, from whom it is -returned to the TIPPER OFF; he gets it ready for wearing; it is then -sent to its destination, when the master, if he is _fortunate_, puts the -amount into his pocket.[3] - -Footnote 2: - - It has frequently been asked, why not make a Hat with _beaver only_, - the answer is, there is not sufficient _stamina_ or strength in it to - become a sound _felted_ substance. It would be worse than building a - _brick_ house without _mortar_ or some sort of cement, to bind the - whole together. - -Footnote 3: - - Some have payment _before_-hand, which brings out the following old, - but very foolish saying, “there are but _two_ bad paymasters, _he_ who - pays beforehand, and _he_ who _never_ pays.” How the latter can be a - _paymaster_ requires some little ingenuity to determine. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - THE - - LAWS AND CUSTOMS - - OF - - JOURNEYMEN HATTERS. - - [Illustration: Decoration] - - -TO enter _fully_ into the various regulations and forms that the -“_trade_” have, from time to time, instituted and acted upon, would of -itself fill a volume; all that can be done then in this small work will -be to give the best possible outline of such matters as are most likely -to interest those who may wish for information on the subject. The most -important laws of this trade are these:— - -_First_—No man shall work as a _maker_ or _finisher_, unless he has -served an apprenticeship of seven years to what is called a “_fair -master_.” - -_Second_—To be a fair master, and entitled, according to the rules of -the trade, to take an apprentice, he must have manufactured his _own -Hats_, seven years prior to the _taking_, or otherwise have served a -fair seven years’ apprenticeship himself to the trade. - -_Third_—Whether there be one, two, or more in a manufacturing firm, that -firm are not to have more than two apprentices at one time. - -_Fourth_—There are a number of masters who do not manufacture their own -“_stuff_,” but are employed by “_Great Houses_,” who, although they have -a right, by law, to take apprentices, yet those apprentices, by reason -of their masters not working their _own materials_, are never admitted -to stand by the side of _fair men_, on which account they must ever -continue _foul_, and debarred of the usual privileges, or submit to a -_second_ apprenticeship. This is a case that frequently occurs; indeed -it is no uncommon thing to see a man with a wife and half a dozen -children, himself near thirty years old, serving a second apprenticeship -for a fair time; the hardship of this must be admitted, inasmuch as it -is punishing a man for a fault he never committed. - -_Fifth_—A _foul man_ is one that has not served his apprenticeship -agreeably to the rule of the trade, or has been guilty of some act -detrimental to the _supposed_ interests of the journeymen in general. -These are called “KNOBSTICKS.” - -_Sixth_—A fair man has the privilege of what is called “_turns upon -tramp_,” that is, if he cannot obtain work in the town where he resides, -or has an inclination to _travel_, he may journey or _tramp_ to the -next; should any of the _fraternity_ be there, and he wishes to get -“_shopped_” he is “_asked for_” by one in that factory, (no man being -allowed to ask for himself), if unsuccessful, there are two night’s -lodging for him, two pots of strong beer, bread and cheese, and a -shilling or two to forward him to the next town. The _money turn_ in -London is five shillings, but no man is entitled to a _second_ turn in -one place, until after the expiration of six months from his receiving -the first. - -_Seventh_—If a journeyman has, by his own act, become _foul_, nothing -can absolve him but submitting to a _fine_, and this is measured -according to the offence, which, in some _heinous_ cases, such as -“_creeping_” into favour with the master, or going to work when all the -rest have struck for wages, is as high as ten guineas. - -There are three distinct courts for the examination and punishment of -offenders. The _first_, or High Court of CONGRESS, is a sort of general -assembly, composed of either Makers or Finishers, just as their separate -interests may be concerned; but on all joint questions these parties -form a _junction_. In this court matters of importance only are -discussed; as, for instance, the _advance of prices_, the abrogation of -old laws, and the making of new ones, under the _operation_ of which, it -sometimes happens that both men and masters, as well as the law of the -land, are alike the victims. The _fines_ levied in this court are -appropriated to special and “STRIKING” purposes, often tending to -produce a “COMBINATION” of interesting effects. The masters too are not -wholly exempt from these pretty little combinations, which, however, do -not always realize or carry their intended _point_; this is owing (it is -thought) to the vast affection journeymen bear towards their employers; -indeed so much so, that they cannot bear the _latter_ should “LOWER” -themselves. - -There is a court below this, which is formed by taking one or two men -from the seven _nearest_ shops. Their sitting, if not _public_, is sure -to be in a _public-house_, president, _Sir John Barleycorn_. The matters -chiefly brought here are those that relate to the misconduct of -journeymen towards each other in the same factory, and which cannot be -settled where they originated. This is called “DOZENING,” and their -power of FINE extends to two guineas, which is drank in good old stout -by the whole seven shops; but as all _dry_ subjects are prohibited in -this tribune, the extent of fine greatly depends on the state of the -weather; so that if it be a sultry summer’s day, the punishment of an -offender is in proportion to the _sun’s heat_. - -The third and lowest _court_ is an assembly of shop-mates only, this -meeting is called a “GARRET MATCH,” and may be demanded for the -punishment of an aggressor, by any aggrieved man in a factory. Power of -fine from two to ten shillings. - -I have before stated that there are in this trade _foul_ men; in point -of number they constitute about one-sixth part of the whole; but their -earnings, or price of labour is the same as the fair trade. - -A journeyman finisher in full work will earn, on an average, from three -to four pounds a-week; while, on the contrary, a maker cannot get more -than _fifty shillings_. This is a subject of much jealousy and -discontent; nor is it likely to be otherwise, unless the latter can -raise himself to an equality with the former; against this there are -many obstacles, one of which is, the _increasing_ foul trade, who would -continue working, even though the fair men had “_struck_.” Another is, -that they could never obtain the co-operation of the finishers, who, -being amply paid themselves, think it best to leave well alone. - -These are the _principal regulations_ which govern journeymen hatters, -whether they have a good or a bad tendency is questionable; there are -many in the _trade_ who decidedly condemn them, giving as their reasons, -that they encourage idleness, tippling, and endless squabbles. -_Idleness_—inasmuch as when men are summoned to discuss the most -trifling matters, even though the meeting be at five o’clock in the -morning, they seldom feel _disposed_ to return to their work that day. -_Tippling_—for the reason that, as _fines_ are mostly spent in _drink_, -the conviction of a supposed offender is generally _thirsted_ after; but -as the quantum levied seldom suffices, all further supplies for the -remainder of the day are met by individual subscription. In these cases -there is no show of niggardliness, as every succeeding gallon of the -“_sparkling entire_,” is but an _internal_ messenger, bearing the glad -tidings of another to come. _Squabbles_, because it is natural, when the -_desire_ for a thing is once created, and the gratification of that -desire (where nothing of criminality attaches) can be indulged, by -having recourse to a little contrivance, that the opportunity of so -doing should be more frequently _made_, than suffered to approach -accidentally; which will account for the _trifling magnitudes_ that are -allowed to agitate shops and factories in general. The arguments in -_favour_ of these laws are, that without them, apprentices would be -careless in serving out their _time_, the trade over-run with bad -workmen, hats greatly deteriorated in the manufacture, the excellence of -which is their chief recommendation in a foreign market, and the surest -guarantee of the master’s profits at home. - -Having given the _contending_ opinions, in reference to the laws of this -trade, I shall say a word or two concerning the shape, and manner of -placing a hat on the head. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - ON THE - - SHAPE AND STYLE - - OF - - WEARING A HAT. - - -THERE is no part of a man’s dress that _makes_ or _mars_ his appearance -so much as his hat; not that it is its striking beauty when new, or a -want of it when old, that is most materially concerned in producing -either of the above effects; the grand point is the FORM, and the -position which it is made to assume on the head; yet how few there are -who give the least attention to either, except indeed military men, and -they in general are uncommonly tasty, affording the best example of the -precise style in which a hat should be worn. It is no less singular than -true, that the same hat, by being placed on the head in different -positions, will give, in _appearance_, as many distinct _characters_ to -the _same person_ as the number of those positions amount to. The most -striking are as follows:—_sullenness_—_indolence_—_gravity_, and _good -humoured impudence_. To give the first, draw the brim of the hat so far -over the eyes that they shall be quite concealed. The second is produced -by the hat being thrown quite back. The third by a prim _horizontal_ -set, covering equally all parts of the head; and the fourth will not be -easily mistaken wherever an _extravagant cock_ on either side is brought -full into view. These are undoubtedly all _extreme_ habits, and seldom -pushed to the extent here described; yet a slight inclination to either -position may, under circumstances, have a very good effect. - -There is another bad custom that ought to be noticed, which I shall do -by first observing, that a hat was intended solely to keep the head -_dry_—ON which it should be worn; but many seem to differ from this -opinion, using it as a sort of NIGHT-CAP wherein is thrust head, ears, -and all. This is a most slovenly practice, as well as a dangerous one, -inasmuch as it tends to keep the head in a continual and _forced_ state -of perspiration, rendering a liability to “_take cold_,” every time the -hat is removed. Yet even this habit is not so bad as sticking the hat on -the _back_ of the head, which, of all others, is the most general, and -carries with it the greatest impropriety, because such a position not -only destroys the shape, but by lodging on the coat collar, the hind -part, from _friction_, becomes greasy, and the binding is always in a -state of raggedness; added to these disadvantages, a most ridiculous -effect is produced by the practice, that is, the head in _appearance_ is -converted into a sort of _peg_, AGAINST which the hat seems to _hang_, -instead of being placed _upon_. A man who indulges in so bad a custom, -should at least preserve a _consistency_ in his dress by walking “slip -shoed,” breeches knees open, and without braces, stockings down, -waistcoat unbuttoned, cravat half tied, one arm only in his coat sleeve, -and at least a six months’ uncombed crop of hair about his pericranium; -here he would be of a piece; and grotesque as such a figure must appear, -by a general adoption of these “captivating negligencies,” there is no -greater inconsistency in the whole catalogue than that of wearing a hat -on the _back part_ of the head. - -As to the _form_ of a hat, and what is best for _this face_ or _that -person_, there is more in it than what is generally supposed, and a -great deal might be said on the subject; but to talk of a _standard -fashion_ is absurd in the extreme, in proof of which it need only be -observed, that if very large hats were adopted, a thin man of five feet -high, would, by the wearing, become as complete a caricature, as a -twenty stone man of six feet would by wearing a very small one. The best -fashion a man can follow in a hat is that which best becomes him, and -various as heads, faces, and persons may be, all things are now -accomplished (so far as a hat is concerned) that can either _fit_ the -one or ornament the other, - - By the Head’s sincere friend, - - and well-wisher, - - R. L. - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - _Furs used in a Hat of fine quality, according to the present improved - system of making, their proportions, value, cost of manufacture, &c. - &c._ - - - FOR THE BODY. - - s. d. per oz. s. d. - 4 oz. of seasoned coney wool, 1 0 .. 4 0 - ½ oz. red wool 2 4 .. 1 2 - ¼ oz. of silk 0 9 .. 0 4½ - - FOR THE COVERING. - - s. d. per oz. s. d. - 1 oz. of prime seasoned beaver 8 6[4] .. 8 6 - Journeyman’s wages for making[5] 3 6 - Dyeing 0 8 - Stiffening, finishing, and picking 1 8 - Cost of lining, finding, band, and box 2 6 - Sewing in of ditto 0 6 - ————— - £1 2 10½ - -Footnote 4: - - No hat can be good, or well covered, with less than one ounce of prime - beaver; and, small as the quantity is, there was a time when - journeymen makers (catching the custom of their betters, and by way of - tythe) thought it no sin to appropriate a part of this material to - their _own use_; but, for the credit of the _trade_ be it said, the - practice is long since abolished, and a man attempting it at the - present day would be scouted from the factory where he worked, by - every honest journeyman therein. - -Footnote 5: - - The average week’s work of a _maker_ is about ten hats; that of a - _finisher_, from five to six dozen. - -Such is the cost of materials and labour at the present period; it is -true that the above scale is drawn from “credit prices;” but let every -part of a manufacturing concern be carried on for money only, which is -rarely the case, still the deduction from the _whole_ cannot be more -than 7½ per cent. All substitutes for the above _materials_ are -decidedly condemned; nor can their _quantities_, as here stated, be -lessened, without injury to the remainder. Here then is sufficient -evidence that a fine hat must, under the most favourable circumstances, -stand the manufacturer in upwards of twenty-one shillings, yet many -_assume_ a capability of _retailing_ such an article at less even than -the charge of manufacture. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - -_A General List of_ Lloyd’s _Fashionable Hats, invented, manufactured, - and sold by him, at his Warehouse, 92, Newgate-Street, London._ - - The John Bull │ The Bang-up - The Wellington │ The Jolliffe - The Tandem │ Clericus - The Tally-Ho │ The Bon-Ton - The Shallow │ The Baronet - The Coburg │ The Four-in-Hand - The Marquis │ A Bit of Blood - The Eccentric │ The Baron - The Regent │ A Noble Lord - The Kent │ The New Dash - The Cumberland │ A Paris Beau - The Esquire │ The Brutus - The Vis-a-Vis │ The Exquisite - The Petersham │ The Irresistible - The Tilbury │ The Pic Nic - The Count │ The Viscount - The Medium │ And the Dandy. - - - CONCLUSION. - -If the foregoing treatise to be judged by the _letter_ and not the -_spirit_—have mercy reader. - -RULES FOR MEASURING A HAT.—Take the circumference on the _outside_, -where the band is fixed, in inches. The breadth of brim and depth of -crown as wanted. - - - ------------------------------------------------------ - - _Entered at Stationer’s Hall._ - - ------------------------------------------------------ - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - ● Transcriber’s Notes: - ○ The original caption for the illustration of hat styles was almost - illegible. It was replaced in the illustration by typed-in text in - a similar typeface. - ○ Missing or obscured punctuation was corrected. - ○ Typographical errors were silently corrected. - ○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only - when a predominant form was found in this book. - ○ Text in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_); text in - bold by “equal” signs (=bold=). - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Lloyd's Treatise on Hats, by Robert Lloyd - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LLOYD'S TREATISE ON HATS *** - -***** This file should be named 56103-0.txt or 56103-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/6/1/0/56103/ - -Produced by ellinora, Barry Abrahamsen and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Lloyd's Treatise on Hats - With Twenty-Four Engravings; Containing Novel Delineations - of His Various Shapes, Shewing the Manner in Which They - Should Be Worn... - -Author: Robert Lloyd - -Release Date: December 2, 2017 [EBook #56103] -Last Updated: January 8, 2018 - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LLOYD'S TREATISE ON HATS *** - - - - -Produced by ellinora, Barry Abrahamsen and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - <div class="figcenter id001"> - <img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="" class="ig001" /> - <div class="ic001"> - <p> - <span class="small">The cover image was created by the transcriber and - is placed in the public domain.</span> - </p> - </div> - </div> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c000" /> - </div> - <div> - <h1 class="c001"> - <span class="xxlarge">LLOYD'S</span> <br /> <br /> <i>TREATISE ON HATS</i>, - </h1> - </div> - <div class="nf-center-c1"> - <div class="nf-center c000"> - <div> - <span class="small">WITH</span> - </div> - <div class="c000"> - <span class="large">TWENTY-FOUR ENGRAVINGS;</span> - </div> - <div class="c000"> - <span class="small">CONTAINING</span> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <p class="c002"> - NOVEL DELINEATIONS OF HIS VARIOUS SHAPES, SHEWING THE MANNER IN WHICH THEY - SHOULD BE WORN, THE SORT OF FACE AND PERSON BEST SUITED TO EACH PARTICULAR - HAT, AND RULES FOR THEIR PRESERVATION; TO WHICH IS ADDED, THE WHOLE - PROCESS OF HAT-MAKING; TOGETHER WITH THE CUSTOMS AND REGULATIONS OF - JOURNEYMEN HATTERS, AND OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION. - </p> - <hr class="c003" /> - <div class="nf-center-c1"> - <div class="nf-center"> - <div> - <i>Dedicated, with Permission, to the Head.</i> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <hr class="c004" /> - <div class="nf-center-c1"> - <div class="nf-center c005"> - <div> - SECOND EDITION. - </div> - </div> - </div> - <div class="nf-center-c1"> - <div class="nf-center"> - <div> - <i>LONDON</i>: - </div> - <div class="c000"> - <span class="small">PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR,</span> - </div> - <div> - <span class="small"><i>By F. Thorowgood, 9, Addle-Street, Aldermanbury</i>.</span> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <hr class="c006" /> - <div class="nf-center-c1"> - <div class="nf-center"> - <div> - <span class="small">1819.</span> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c007" /> - </div> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c008"> - PREFACE. - </h2> - </div> - <hr class="c009" /> - <p class="c010"> - <span class="sc">To</span> what trifles do some men owe a perpetuation of - their "<i>famous memory</i>." There is Nimrod, for instance, not but what - he may have had other and <i>greater</i> merits, yet he is best known as a - "<i>mighty hunter</i>," and one who "wore <i>boots</i>;" now, allowing the - relation to be true, and that he <i>did</i> hunt, and he <i>did</i> wear - boots, is there anything extraordinary attaching to either, unless indeed, - it could be proved that he had <i>wooden legs</i>, or that he was capable - of sitting on the backs of two or more animals at one time; and if such - were not the case, the simple fact of itself was never worth recording; as - well may it be said, a thousand years hence, that LLOYD <i>was a great - Hatmaker, and lived in a great City</i>. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - But possibly the hunting system of this <i>old gentleman</i> differed - materially from the pastime of our modern <i>Tally-ho's</i>, and instead - of running after <i>hares</i>, <i>snipes</i>, and <i>conies</i>, Nimrod's - sport was on the <i>field of battle</i>; in whose days the most rational - idea is, that all was <i>game</i> which caused pursuits, and all pursuits - <i>hunting</i>: If it were not so, and his majesty's capability only - extended to the <i>riding</i> upon a <i>horse's back</i>, there is not a - butcher's boy, in any country village between <span class="sc">Berwick</span> - and <span class="sc">St. Ives</span>, that would not have ridden Nimrod's - <i>rump</i> off. But it may be asked by those whose inclinations and - patience shall lead them to hunt through the following pages, whether this - is what it professes to be, a <span class="sc">Preface</span>, which is - supposed to explain, or prepare the mind for something to come; the answer - to which is as follows: A horse that will not <i>go</i> without another - being led before him, is not worth <i>riding</i>, and if what is herein - written requires a Preface to render it <i>intelligible</i>, it is not - worth the <i>reading</i>. - </p> - <p class="c012"> - <i>May, 1819.</i> - </p> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c007" /> - </div> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c008"> - JOHN BULL. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">The</span> greatest difficulty a painter has - professionally to encounter is to produce a striking resemblance of a - countenance where there are no striking features: just so with the Hat - called "<span class="sc">John Bull</span>." It has no marked style of - peculiarity in the formation; but, independent of the <i>fine texture</i>, - there is in it a combination of rare qualities not often met with: for - instance-it has in appearance strong marks of becoming gravity-a bold but - manly dignity-a pleasing diffidence, with a conscious, yet unassuming - importance-and is recommended to persons somewhat robust in form, features - full and round, with a complexion not too dark. In wearing, it should - neither be placed aside, thrown too far back, nor brought particularly - forward over the face, for the following reasons-the first position would - bespeak an air of <i>non challance</i>-the second a sort of slovenly - neglect in the person-and the third an incommunicative sullenness of - disposition. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE WELLINGTON. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">So</span> called from the great Hero; not for the - popularity of the name alone, but for the reason that such a Hat was - actually worn by him; and, in fact, it is a shape uncommonly well suited - both to his face and person; the former being a sort of <i>long oval</i>, - and the latter without the least appearance of <i>bulk</i>: indeed a - ponderous body, tall or short, with a round, or what is vulgarly termed a - pudding face, cannot judiciously shelter itself under a Wellington. This - Hat is not only particularly <i>becoming</i> the <i>person</i> of his - Grace, but there is that in its appearance which is strongly - characteristic of his great mind; for, to an excellently formed crown of - about seven inches deep, overspreading an inch at top, there is united a - fine arched brim of small dimensions, taking a smartish sweep of the - fourth part of a circle, and when placed on the head somewhat <i>a la - Francais</i>, carries with it an uncommon degree of brilliancy and fire: - and the fore and hind parts terminating in a close <i>point</i>, clearly - shows that, whether <i>advancing</i> or <i>retreating</i>, this modern - <span class="sc">Cæsar</span> is always sure to <i>carry</i> his point. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE TANDEM. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - This is a Hat wherein is displayed a good deal of what may be termed <i>character;</i> - for which reason, its <i>becoming</i> wearers, comparatively speaking, - will be few in number; but notwithstanding this <i>marked</i> peculiarity, - there is a sort of <i>style</i> in its general feature which is uncommonly - <i>striking;</i> nor is there any form whatever, where so much of that - airy lightness is to be seen, as in the Tandem. Few persons over <i>thirty</i> - become this Hat, and none under <i>twenty</i>, and even <i>between</i> - those ages, if the head be more than twenty-two inches, or less than - twenty-one and a half in circumference, the whole effect is destroyed. - Shape of the face immaterial, provided the complexion is not <i>too</i> - dingy; but, above all things, neither <i>overgrown</i> or little <i>fat</i> - gentlemen should wear the Tandem. To have the best effect when on the - head, it should be placed rather forward, inclining a little to one side. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE TALLY-HO. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - A very comfortable and convenient hunting Hat, partaking in some degree - the natural formation of the head: has many advantages over the old - fashioned cap; is <i>light</i>, though strong-<i>porous</i>, which allows - the heat of the head, arising from exertion, to fly off-and <i>elastic</i>, - the effect of which is to sit close without pressure; but, above all, it - has a most gentlemanly appearance, which it never fails to communicate to - the wearer, particularly if he be a true sportsman. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE SHALLOW. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - A Hat more admired for the ease and simplicity of style than for any - peculiar character in its general appearance; being low in the crown, it - is worn to most advantage by tall thin gentlemen with very large heads; - and as the fore and hind part of the brim is <i>set</i> nearly horizontal - from the base of the crown, it has two great advantages; the first of - which is, that it may be conveniently worn over a wig; and, secondly, if - worn <i>without</i>, the shirt collar is kept clean much longer than - usual. This Hat, to have its proper effect, should be placed on the head - with a strict <i>formality of set</i>, which in many persons will beget an - air of <i>importance</i>. N. B. The late Justice Addington generally wore - a shallow. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE COBURG. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">For</span> <i>style</i> and <i>form</i> has strong claims - to favour; but, being rather small in appearance, the wearer, to show to - most advantage, should be somewhat slender in his make, features not too - prominent, and in stature about five feet five to five feet ten, but - neither <i>above</i> nor <i>below</i>. One great advantage attending this - Hat is, that the shape of the wearer's <i>nose</i> is not at all material, - provided it be not of that class known by the term "bottled." It may be - worn a little aside, but by no means placed too far on the head, a failing - very general among <i>country</i> gentlemen. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE MARQUIS. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - A well-proportioned Hat in every respect, and may, not inaptly, be termed - the <i>Universal</i>, as it becomes most persons who wear it; in point of - form, there is nothing of what may be called <i>character</i> or <i>singularity</i> - in its appearance, and has the rare property of giving to the <i>wearer</i> - a sort of dignified affability, a courteous condescension, together with - an agreeable modesty, at least in <i>appearance</i>. It is named after a - certain nobleman, who has all the above qualities united, although in the - <i>prime of life</i>. To show to advantage on the head, this Hat should - not go lower than the tip of the ears, both of which it may barely touch, - unless the wearer has a short neck, in that case it must be worn somewhat - aside, touching one ear only, but by no means to be <i>thrown back</i>. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE ECCENTRIC. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <i>Unique</i> in its way, strongly embodying the name in its <i>form</i>. - This Hat is particularly recommended to gentlemen (and many are to be - found) who hold their understandings libelled by acting, thinking, - speaking, or dressing like <i>other men</i>; but, it must be observed, - that slender persons with <i>dark</i> countenances, and about the middle - size, best become these Hats: for, however eccentric a man would wish to - appear, by adopting any <i>peculiar</i> mode of dress, he never can hope - to succeed unless nature has done a <i>little</i> for him; it follows then - of course, that a tall or short man, if he be stout and well grown, with a - fine open florid countenance, cannot cleverly become an <i>Eccentric</i>; - but an <i>agreeable</i> contorsion of the eye, a trifling disagreement in - the symmetry of the shoulders, or a slight <i>bias</i> of the body <i>right</i> - or <i>left</i>, are indescribable advantages in giving full effect to this - Hat, which may be worn a little on one side, with a gentle inclination - over the eyes, unless they are playing at cross purposes, in the event of - which it must be thrown quite back, to give effect to their <i>playful - humour</i>. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE REGENT. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - A finely-formed and most decidedly elegant Hat: is somewhat upon a large - scale, the crown being upwards of seven inches high, much yeoman, with an - excellently turned and corresponding brim, producing together a happy - union of the nicest proportions: It is worn to most advantage by persons - whose height and bulk are above the common stature; not that it is meant - to be understood, that every athletic or robust form would <i>become</i> a - Regent; on the contrary, there is not a shape in the whole catalogue that - demands in the wearer a greater share of <i>external requisites</i> than - this; even the very <i>gait</i> is concerned, which, to strike, should be - stately and firm, though easy, each step measuring exactly half the length - of the whole body-more would become an absolute <i>stride</i>-and less a - mere <i>strut</i>; than which nothing can be farther removed from graceful - <i>carriage</i>: Be it understood, also, that the Regent is most becoming - when placed a little on the <i>right</i> side, but by no means to come <i>within</i> - half an inch of the ear-unless the latter should exceed its fair - dimensions-in that case it were best hid altogether; but then, to do this, - the Hat is forced beyond the proper position, and what was intended as - ornament, becomes the very reverse: So circumstanced, the Noble Lord, the - Shallow, or the John Bull, might be worn to most advantage; but when - Nature has been a little attentive to the minuter parts, as well as the - greater proportions of manly exterior, the Regent cannot fail to give - additional dignity to the wearer; creating thereby a combination of - elegancies that must render his appearance absolutely <span class="fss">IRRESISTIBLE</span>. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE KENT. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - A very gentlemanly Hat, and although there is not the dignity of the - Regent about it, there is, notwithstanding, much to admire: Indeed, the - scale of proportions are very similar in both; the only <i>real</i> - difference existing in the <i>crown</i>, which is about one-half of an - inch lower than the latter; and, in the <i>nautical phraseology</i>, may - not inaptly be termed a Regent cut down. It is very singular, and worth - remarking, that trifling as the Kent differs from the Regent in actual - measurement, the contrariety of effect, when on the head, is great and - striking; which unquestionably proves, that a very slight deviation from a - given rule will produce results more opposed to each other than the - deviation is to the rule itself. The style in which this Hat should be - worn is as follows:-if the head be of an <i>oval</i> form, place it - thereon, as near as possible, in an horizontal position; but if a <i>round</i> - head (which of all descriptions is most dreaded by a <i>castermonger</i>) - let the Hat be thrown a <i>little</i> back, with a slight inclination on - the side most agreeable, which will tend to prevent its assuming that <i>trencher</i>-like - appearance too common from such causes. The <i>personal</i> requisites - suitable to the Kent, may be found on referring to the Cobourg; with this - difference, that, as the brim is of larger dimensions, the wearer, if he - pleases, may be six feet high. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE CUMBERLAND. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">This</span> Hat, in outline and symmetry, is highly - prepossessing, and will always have a number of admirers. The formation, - dimensions, and style of the brim, are similar to the Regent and the Kent; - but the crown is <i>taper</i> and much <i>shallower</i> than either. It - should be worn as nearly horizontal as possible; and, if the wearer be of - the middle stature, or above, his bulk or countenance is immaterial. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE VIS-A-VIS. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - A remarkably <span class="fss">STYLISH HAT</span>, possessing great and <i>peculiar</i> - advantages over most others, on which account its claims to patronage are - of the highest order. The brim, before as well as behind, being brought - down quite square, and almost in a perpendicular line with the crown - itself, gives the wearer an opportunity of observing things <i>en passant</i>, - by a sort of side-glance, without being <i>seen</i> so to do; thus, it is - well adapted for gentlemen who would fain indulge in the most exquisite - admiration of the beauteous <i>fair</i>: but by reason of their extreme <i>modesty</i>, - shrink from the trial: There is, also, another and a very important - consideration, which cannot be allowed to pass unnoticed-it is a - well-known truth, that there are certain situations in life where the - falling into is not at all times to be avoided; the result of which is, to - create in the imagination, a perpetual apprehension lest some villainous - intruder should, in defiance of eloquence or inclination, <i>compel</i> - the <i>acceptance</i> of his official or rather <i>officious</i> - attendance: to counteract so dirty a custom, as well as to nip the system - in the very <i>bud</i>, this Hat is most admirably contrived-for by a - simple elevation of the hinder part, the front may be brought so far over - the face, as to form a complete shade for the countenance. Here then is - the attainment of two <i>great</i> ends-modesty encouraged, and - impertinence restrained. Lastly, and not the least of its useful purposes - is, that should the introduction of the Vis-a-Vis become general, those - novel and graceful evolutions of the body, denominated the <i>bend</i>, - the <i>flutter</i>, and the <i>poke</i>, may be performed in a much - smaller space than usual, and without the least danger to the eyes, which - is greatly to be feared, when the distinguished votaries, in the eager - performance of these newly-imported civilities, are brought too abruptly - <i>face to face</i>. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - Although there is much of the <i>dash</i> in this Hat, it has, - notwithstanding, a sort of <i>sombre</i> appearance, which calls on the - wearer for a <i>figure</i> and <i>countenance</i> to correspond; it is - therefore, if <i>ornamentally</i> considered, recommended to such only, - whose complexion is of a darkish hue, visage long, not over bulky in - person, and <i>above</i> the middle size; but, if <i>usefully</i> - considered, all the nicer distinctions must yield to imperious necessity. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE PETERSHAM. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - A connoisseur examining a fine painting, was asked by a bye-stander, which - part he most admired; his answer was, "<i>no part</i>." "What!" observed - the other, "is it possible that so highly talented a production as this is - acknowledged to be, can have no merits in your estimation?" To which the - connoisseur replied-"Sir, a work so masterly in execution-so striking in - effect-so perfect in <i>all</i> its parts, cannot be truly estimated but - as a <i>whole</i>." Here, then, the <i>picture</i> is the <i>Petersham</i>-the - <i>selection</i> of beauties therein, the <i>difficulty</i>: To get rid of - which, be it sufficient to state, that the prominent feature in this Hat - is elegance of <i>style</i>, strongly visible in all its parts, and each - part in unison with the whole; which for <i>tonish</i> and exquisite <i>dash</i> - has no competitor. It will be seen, from what is here stated, that, much - as this Hat is capable of transfusing its <i>graces</i> to the wearer (and - who can doubt it), some <i>little</i> attention to <i>personal</i> - requisites is necessary-which, in stature, should be over five feet seven, - and not too lusty; countenance or complexion is of little consequence; but - the visage should be oval, such corresponding uncommonly well with the - fine <i>arched</i> brim, which forms nearly two-fifths of a circle; and, - when tastefully placed on the head, with a slight inclination over the - face, so as to bring the <i>fore</i> point on a line with the <i>tip</i> - of the nose, such will be the result, that, whatever difficulty may attend - a just description of its astonishing effects, the advantages to a wearer - will most assuredly be <span class="fss">FELT</span>. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE TILBURY. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">This</span> Hat is bold in appearance, but full of <i>character</i>: - Indeed, there is so much of the <i>whip</i> in its general outline, that - it can never, with propriety, be worn but as a <i>driving</i> Hat. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE BANG-UP. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">What</span> a pleasing reflection it is, all things - considered, that near as the human <i>form</i> may approach to perfection, - still that form is capable of being <i>improved</i> by ingenuity; but - then, the difficulty is to decide on what really <i>are improvements</i>: - for instance, some will admire a fine slope in the coat <i>skirts</i>, - tapering off like the tail of a goose; some (whether or no to catch the - manners of a <i>hoyden</i>) will put on the <i>frock</i>; others, again, - admire the <i>pantaloon</i>; and many give a decided preference to <i>inexpressibles</i>. - But the <i>Bang-up</i>, as a Hat, is the very master-piece of inventive - taste, wherein all admiration must of necessity <i>centre</i>, having not - only in its general appearance a bold and manly <i>front</i>, but a - pleasing harmony of parts, all tending to produce an agreeable union of <i>taste</i> - and <i>utility</i>; who then would mount the "<i>box</i>" without being - decorated with its chiefest ornament? - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE CLERICUS. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - A very <span class="sc">contemplative, sedate, pious-looking Hat</span>, - much worn by Police-Officers, Quack-Doctors, and Clergymen; this, it may - be said, is a strange assemblage of <i>characters</i> to bring under <i>one - head</i>, and some may hold the <i>association</i> to be a reflection on - the <i>latter</i>, when in truth the very <i>opposite</i> is intended; in - proof of which it is only necessary to observe that, where the attainment - of an object depends on <i>outward show</i>, such contrivances will be - resorted to as are best calculated to secure the object in view; and the - very <i>assumption</i> of the habit here spoken of by the "traps" and - "quacks" of the day, is evidence of the habit itself being in the <i>highest - possible estimation</i>. If taken in an <i>ornamental</i> point of view, - it would be no easy task to decide on its merits; but if <i>usefully</i> - considered, the conclusion is plain and easy. It is an admitted fact, that - an idea of dignity cannot embody itself with <i>little things</i>, hence - the custom of wearing <i>large wigs</i>, for such doubtless these Hats - were originally intended, and for this reason, the hinder part being drawn - up with loops in two places, no peruke, however large its dimensions, can - receive the least injury; in short, it may be worn under this Hat with as - little discomfiture to the <i>intricate friz</i> as though it were - absolutely on the very block itself: here then is produced what may be - termed a happy union of wisdom and piety, inasmuch as it is allowed, when - speaking of high legal characters, that the <i>wisdom</i> is in the <i>wig</i>, - and by the same rule (when Clericus is worn by a Divine) the <i>piety</i> - must be in the <i>Hat</i>. The style of putting on will greatly depend on - the size of the <i>peruke</i>, without which it should never be worn, - particularly if the hair be <i>lank and black</i>. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE BON-TON. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">In</span> point of form and fine proportions, this Hat - cannot fail to rank high in general estimation. Its appearance very much - resembles the Wellington, or rather it is between the Wellington and the - Marquis; and, like the latter, there is that becoming <i>style</i>, which - not only <i>harmonizes</i>, but gives a <i>peculiar grace</i> to the - majority of its wearers. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE BARONET. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">This</span> is a Hat highly respectable in appearance, - and well suited to gentlemen in the <i>decline</i> of life; but as that is - a state to which few will acknowledge while there is a capability of <i>hobbling - without a crutch</i>, something definite had better be stated by giving - the precise age;-take it then at <i>fifty</i>, which will put all doubts - at rest. The reason for fixing on the Baronet, as suitable to those in - declining years, is its grave, reflecting, methodical cast, such as would - seem to say of the <i>wearer</i>-"Here is one that possesses a serenity of - mind, an easy indifference of disposition, a tranquillity of thought, - which would quietly disentangle itself from the vain, shadowy, fleeting - desires of this life, and leave no regret behind." There are many other - recommendatory properties in this Hat, but those already particularized - are the most valuable; yes, <i>valuable</i>,-for it is a well-known fact, - that mankind are often made up of contrivance, that is, they frequently - give to <i>appearance</i> the shape of <i>reality</i>;-and however strange - the doctrine may at first appear, it is nevertheless true, that the custom - is often attended with very <i>beneficial results</i>, inasmuch as by <i>endeavouring</i> - to maintain an <i>apparent</i> consistency between <i>habit</i> and <i>action</i>, - the <i>propriety</i> of doing right becomes so strongly impressed on the - mind, that the villainy of a bad practice is seen in its <i>worst - deformity</i>, and conscience, the unerring monitor of the mind, rides - triumphant over all. These are recommendations of no ordinary nature, and - such that will no doubt cause much inquiry after the <i>Baronet</i>. As to - growth or countenance, there is an old saying, that "beggars should not be - choosers;" and the wearer, if he becomes so from <i>necessity</i>, will - feel the propriety of leaving choice out of the question. - </p> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c000" /> - </div> - <div class="figcenter id002"> - <img src="images/i017.jpg" alt="" class="ig001" /> - <div class="ic001"> - <p> - <i>Engraved for</i> <b>Lloyd's</b> <i>treatise on Hats.</i><br /><br /><i>John - Bull. The Cobourg. The Baron. Clericus. The New Dash. The Shallow.<br /><br />The - Cumberland. The Viz-a-viz. The Eccentric. The Wellington. A Noble - Lord. The Tandem.<br /><br />The Marquis. The Tally-ho. The Bang-up. - Baronet. The Paris Beau. The Bon Ton.<br /><br />A bit of Blood. The - Jolliffe. The Dandy. The Regent. The Irresistible. The Petersham.<br /><br />Designed - by R. Lloyd, Hat Maker, No. 92, Newgate-Street.</i> - </p> - </div> - </div> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c007" /> - </div> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE JOLLIFFE. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - A mind which is struck, through the medium of sight, with impressions of - sublimity, will have those impressions strengthened in proportion as the - <i>magnitude</i> of the object viewed is the greater, and as all things - are but great or small <i>comparatively</i>, it follows, of course, that - bodies of the same class, description, or affinity, which are <i>less</i> - than the <i>largest</i>, must suffer, when brought into the scale of - comparison with their superiors: agreeably to these rules, the <span - class="sc">Jolliffe</span>, whose dimensions exceed all others, comes - forward with strong claims to patronage, for besides the importance with - which it never fails to strike every beholder, it is sure to convey a - corresponding importance to the <span class="fss">WEARER</span>. Here then - are considerations which should not be trifled with, particularly as the - <i>assumption</i> of a thing is often taken for the thing itself-nay, are - there not situations in life where <i>appearances</i> become so vitally - important that it would be little short of criminality not to <i>put them - on</i>? and where the attainment of great ends may be insured by nothing - more than a simple attention to the <i>formation</i> of a <i>Hat</i>, it - would be worse than folly to neglect the means. Rightly taken, what a - multiplicity of persons might be benefitted by the above <i>hints</i>; - Princes, Peers, and Plenipotentiaries; Senators, State-ministers, or - Trading Politicians;-all-all may find their interest in the adoption of - the Jolliffe; and that these great personages may not plead ignorance as - to the manner in which it should be worn with the best effect, here follow - the proper instructions. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - If a <span class="sc">Prince</span>, let it be <i>lightly</i> placed on - the head, and a little <i>aside</i>, which <i>bespeaks a sort of cheerful - approving</i> confidence in one's own actions.-If a <span class="sc">Peer</span>, - it should be worn in a firm horizontal position, just covering half the - forehead; which gives the appearance of a wise and steady determination - where great questions are agitated, particularly when they become <i>self</i> - interesting.-If an <span class="sc">Ambassador</span>, it may be thrown a - <i>little back</i>, inclining somewhat aside; such position indicating a - bold and careless indifference to all around, which will be taken for - granted that such could not arise from any other cause than a total - disregard for the <i>result</i> of his mission; a practice, although not - often hit on, may have many advantages. As to the three <i>latter</i> - characters, their pursuits having all the same end-<span class="fss">POPULARITY</span>-let - them consult the style of the Prince, and remember that, in whomsoever - confidence has credit, popularity is sure to follow. - </p> - <hr class="c015" /> - <p class="c011"> - <span class="large">?</span> As the Jolliffe is not likely to be worn - unless for <i>special purposes</i>, to give an idea who would best become - it is unnecessary. - </p> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c000" /> - </div> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c008"> - THE FOUR-IN-HAND. - </h2> - </div> - <div class="lg-container-b c016"> - <div class="linegroup"> - <div class="group"> - <div class="line in4"> - A modern-styled <i>whip</i>, - </div> - <div class="line in4"> - Howe'er he may dip - </div> - <div class="line"> - Into fashion's wide vortex his <i>pinions</i>, - </div> - <div class="line in4"> - To make a bold stand, - </div> - <div class="line in4"> - <span class="sc">Lloyd's</span> prime <i>Four-in-Hand</i> - </div> - <div class="line"> - Must cover his <i>upper dominions</i>. - </div> - </div> - <div class="group"> - <div class="line in4"> - For ease, form, and <i>set</i>, - </div> - <div class="line in4"> - The like never yet - </div> - <div class="line"> - Was seen, at least so run opinions; - </div> - <div class="line in4"> - Then ye four-in-hand whips, - </div> - <div class="line in4"> - In your <i>jarvey</i>-like trips - </div> - <div class="line"> - Take care of your <i>upper dominions</i>. - </div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <div class="nf-center-c0"> - <div class="nf-center c000"> - <div> - <i>DIMENSIONS</i>. - </div> - </div> - </div> - <div class="lg-container-b c017"> - <div class="linegroup"> - <div class="group"> - <div class="line in4"> - It measures, by rule, - </div> - <div class="line in4"> - Near three inches full - </div> - <div class="line"> - In the brim, with a crown wide at top; - </div> - <div class="line in4"> - Nor is there a <i>face</i> - </div> - <div class="line in4"> - But what it will <i>grace</i>, - </div> - <div class="line"> - If purchased at <span class="sc">Lloyd's</span> <i>fancy shop</i>. - </div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c007" /> - </div> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c008"> - A BIT OF BLOOD. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - The term itself naturally implies a something upon a <i>small</i> scale, - which is the fact, and although there is nothing of that imposing dignity - of style in the above Hat, which characterizes the <i>Regent</i>, the <i>Petersham</i>, - &c. there is a <i>lively</i>, <i>animated</i>, and <i>vigorous</i> - fire in all its features, that will not allow of any falling off in the - general comparison. To give a complete catalogue of the many <span - class="fss">VIRTUES</span> belonging to <i>a bit of blood</i>, would - exceed the allotted limits; but it cannot be amiss to detail a few of the - more <i>prominent</i>, that all, whose necessities may bear to the point, - should be <i>benefitted</i> by the <i>wearing</i>: First then, it is - admirably calculated for those who are about to ask <i>favors</i>, such - being more readily <i>granted</i> when they seem the <i>less wanted</i>, - and no one could suppose that the <i>saucy</i> animation which would be so - strongly visible under this Hat could make the application from <span - class="fss">NECESSITY</span>. Secondly, it will be of singular advantage - to <i>elderly gentlemen</i> in pursuit of <i>young wives</i>, who nine - times in ten decide on the choice of a man from the <i>cock</i>-of his - Hat. Thirdly, (not that there is much need of it for such a purpose - now-a-days) its advantages for those that are tormented with <i>dunns</i> - are incalculable, for, by being placed pretty firm on the head, inclining - rather to one side, at the same time assuming a sharp <i>erect</i> - position of the body, a stern direction of the eye, and arms <i>a-kimbo</i>, - the devil himself, in the shape of a <i>creditor</i>, would hardly hazard - the <span class="fss">REPETITION OF A VISIT</span>. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - <span class="small"><i>N. B.</i> No service to gentlemen of the <i>learned</i> - profession.</span> - </p> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c000" /> - </div> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c008"> - <span class="xsmall">THE</span> <br /> <br /> <span class="xlarge"><i>PROCESS</i></span> - <br /> <br /> <span class="small">OF</span> <br /> <br /> <span - class="xxlarge">HAT-MAKING</span> <br /> <br /> EXPLAINED, <br /> <br /> - WITH PREFATORY REMARKS, &c. &c. - </h2> - </div> - <hr class="c009" /> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">Turks</span> are said to assign as a reason for not - wearing Hats, that they are put together by <i>witchcraft</i>. There is - certainly a great deal of ingenuity in the practice, and some <i>effects</i> - produced whose <i>causes</i> are as yet unexplained: but, with all due - deference to these <i>turban gentlemen</i>, it is presumed that they have - objections beyond what is above stated, some of which are as follows:-<i>First</i>, - their country is destitute of the most essential material-<span class="fss">FUR</span>. - <i>Second</i>, the climate being extremely sultry, stoves, irons, and - scalding water are not likely to become favourites. <i>Thirdly</i>, being - compelled by their religion to keep their heads <i>close shaved</i>, a - Hat, above all human inventions, would be the most ridiculous covering <i>they</i> - could adopt. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - There are many opinions as to the time Hats were first invented, and, very - probably, all equally erroneous. Some carry the date as far back as the - foundation of Christianity, attributing the merit to St. Luke, of whom it - is said, that he, having tender feet, put a layer of hair or fur between - them and his sandals, in which situation friction and moisture caused such - an interweaving of particles, that the whole became strongly united, or - (technically called) <span class="fss">FELTED</span>. Whether the story, - as applied to Luke, be true or false, is immaterial; but that such did - happen with some one, is very likely; nor is it at all unlikely, but that - an occurrence of this kind did really give the first idea of Hat-making. - Having remarked thus much, I shall next proceed to state, what is not the - less true than surprising, which is, that of the various branches of - manufacture which this country is so highly distinguished for, none are - less understood than Hat-making; nay, there is not one person in fifty - who, if he were asked the question, could tell whether a Hat was or was - not a <i>woven</i> substance; nor is there one in 500 but what suppose - that the <i>skin</i> of a hare or rabbit is worked with the fur <i>attached</i> - to it, as in the natural state; and, to form a correct judgment of the - external material, when manufactured, whether it be hair, wool, or beaver, - although many pretend, none are really competent but those <i>experienced</i> - in the <i>trade</i>. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - To show the absurd notions some entertain on this matter, I state as a - fact, that I do not know a manufacturer or seller in the trade but what - has been applied to, by some one or other, to have a <i>Beaver</i> Hat - made from a <i>hare</i>'s skin. Nay, I remember once offending a very good - customer, and a man not wanting for sense either, by an involuntary burst - of laughter, on his presenting the skin of a <i>French lap-dog</i> for the - very same purpose. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - It is no uncommon thing for persons who are on pretty good terms with - their capabilities to give opinions as to the <i>merits</i> or <i>demerits</i> - of a Hat; which opinions are as opposite to the true state of the case as - the sun's rays to a state of darkness. I shall give an instance, although - a trifling one, of a very common error among persons who <i>suppose</i> - themselves to have a knowledge of the subject, which is this, if the - picker has not a very good eye, some of the larger hairs will be left in - the Hat, and consequently the most <i>visible</i>; these are directly - termed "<i>grey hairs</i>," when the truth is, that they are the <i>blackest</i> - in the whole composition; but being thicker than the general mass, they - receive a greater portion of <i>light</i>, which is mistaken for a grey - colour: an easy method of proving the fact is to pull one of these <i>grey - hairs</i> from the Hat, and place it on a piece of white paper, the <i>contrast</i> - will decide the question. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - Again, whatever produces a glutinization of the <span class="fss">NAP</span>, - is said to be the effect of the stiffening; this is not true in every - case, for it is frequently owing to improper management in placing the - Hat, when wet, before a large fire, which should never be done; the better - way is, if very wet, to hang it up without brushing or wiping, and when - dry it is easily put to rights, by gently passing over a clothes brush: if - only slightly wet, wipe it with a handkerchief, and, when dry, it will - brush clean. But the great fault with most persons is to put on their - Hats, day after day, in the same <i>dirty state</i> as when taken off at - night; from which it is natural to infer, that there must be a vast - accumulation of dirt; it is this dirt, when exposed to the rain, that - forms a sort of cement, or paste, having all the appearance of what is - commonly called "<i>gum</i>." - </p> - <p class="c011"> - Another proof of erroneous judgment-Profuse perspiration of the head is - what many are subject to; by reason of which, from the frequency of - wearing, and the <i>porosity</i> of the Hat, there is a continual - absorption of moisture going on until it becomes completely <i>saturated</i>, - particularly in front, the consequence is, that the nap lies buried in a - greasy matter, which matter is also, but very inappropriately termed <i>gum</i> - or <i>stiffening</i>, when in point of fact it is <i>neither</i>, for the - very same effect would, under the like circumstances, be produced, and in - much less time, if the Hat were not stiffened at all. The best remedy for - this is a piece of thin flannel under the leather, and that frequently - changed. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - There is nothing so detrimental to a Hat as a severe exposure to rain on - the first, second, or even third time of wearing; for this reason, the - materials wherewith it is composed are in a manner quite <i>green</i>, and - require <i>seasoning</i>; to effect which it should be frequently put on - in dry weather. I have always found that a Hat, constantly worn for five - or six weeks <i>without being wet</i>, underwent every sort of hardship - afterwards with little or no injury, retaining at the same time its - beauty-form-and wearing <i>three times longer</i> than it otherwise would - have done. It may be asked, why not, to prevent accidents, render the Hat - <i>water-proof</i>? that is, impervious to the action of either atmosphere - or rain. The thing is easy enough, I admit; but where there is a choice of - only <i>two evils</i>, it is always best to select the <i>least</i>. We - all know (or should know) that if a man were to enclose himself, arms, - legs, and body, in what is called an <i>oil-skin dress</i>, and that drawn - close round the neck, the whole tightly fitted to every part of his person - as a Hat is to the head, the most unpleasant consequences would ensue; the - cause why is obviously this, the exhalations of the body, particularly in - a state of exertion, would when so <i>enclosed</i>, be either prevented - from flying off, as nature requires, or otherwise checked altogether; - precisely so with the head if the porosity of the Hat was destroyed, which - it must be to resist effectually the action of water. This deduction must - be so clear and self-evident that further reasoning is unnecessary. - Another great objection against water-proof <i>Hats</i> is, that the - ingredients made use of for such purposes, when exposed to the sun's heat, - are so acted upon as to cause a <i>decomposition</i> of the colour, and - nine times in ten, the Hat, before it is half worn out, becomes any thing - but what it was meant to be. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - It is astonishing to hear the number of qualifications a Hat is <i>said</i> - to have, and each as opposite to the other as it is possible for any two - things to be; some, for instance, maintain that it cannot be good unless - it is <i>light</i>, others again will decidedly condemn it for <i>being so</i>, - insisting that the chief recommendation is its being firm and <i>stout</i>. - All that is requisite to be observed on this, is that <i>weight</i> has no - more to do with the <i>quality</i> of a Hat, than the situation of prime - minister has to do with the cramming of turkies. A very inferior Hat may - be made <i>equally light</i> with the most superior, and in both cases the - cost of manufacture will be less than if they were made <i>stout</i>. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - The length of the beaver too is another point on which the difference of - opinion is often experienced; many are for very <i>short naps</i>, - declaring all others to be outrageously vulgar; but the majority of - wearers seem best pleased with <i>long</i> naps, which always <i>take</i> - and <i>retain</i> the best <i>black</i>, while, on the contrary those that - are very short never do. A medium between the two is the most preferable. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - Having stated thus much, I shall next proceed to explain in what way a - fine Hat is <i>made</i>, describing as accurately as possible the various - processes it undergoes, as also the materials with which it is composed, - the proportions of each as well as the quantity of work a man is capable - of doing, whether <i>maker</i> or <i>finisher</i>, in a week, the amount - of wages, together with some of the curious regulations, by-laws, &c. - &c. &c. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - In the first place, as I shall have occasion to mention a few of the <i>implements</i> - by name, a short description of them may not be amiss. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - There is the <span class="fss">BOW</span>, which in form is not unlike - what is used for playing on a <i>double bass</i>, but in length and - thickness is equal to a constable's staff; there is a bridge at each end, - from one to the other of which is tightly strung a stout line of <i>catgut</i>. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - The <span class="fss">HURDLE</span> is situate in what is called the bow - garret, and is a sort of <i>table</i>, on which the <i>fur</i> is bowed, - or mixed, having the farther end and sides enclosed to prevent the - material from being blown away. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - The <span class="fss">BATTERY</span> is somewhat like the hopper of a - mill, in this is contained the hot <i>liquor</i>, and is mostly - constructed for eight men, <i>round</i> which they stand when <i>making</i>; - the lower part is lead, the upper or working part mahogany. All batteries - are formed into divisions called <span class="fss">PLANKS</span>, one of - which is allotted to each man. There are many other little things used by - makers, but these three are all that deserve particular notice. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - The first thing a maker looks for in the morning is the <span class="fss">FUR</span>, - or raw material, which is furnished to him by <i>weight</i>; the quantity - being more or less, according to the substance of the Hat required, and is - in <i>two</i> parcels, one of which contains the <span class="fss">BEAVER</span>, - or napping; the other the <span class="fss">BODY</span> (a proportionate - scale of both will be seen hereafter). Thus provided he takes it to the - <span class="fss">BOW GARRET</span>; the materials for the body are first - placed on the hurdle, and the bow being hung at the centre for support, is - held in the left hand horizontally, so that the catgut may come in contact - with the fur; in the <i>right</i> hand is placed a small piece of stick, - with a <i>nut</i> at the end, and in this position the work begins after - the following manner. The <i>catgut</i> of the bow (being first placed in - the midst of the <i>fur</i>) is pulled or struck with the knotted stick, - which produces, from a quick repetition of the stroke, a continued <i>vibration</i>, - this <i>vibration</i> it is that causes a separation or <i>flitting</i> of - the fur, at the same time mixing and cleansing it. This operation is - continued until such ends are fully attained. It is next divided into <i>halves</i>, - one of which is laid aside, and the other again bowed over. In this second - operation the workman contrives, partly by bowing, and partly by a slight - <i>wicker frame</i>, to bring the material into an oblong form, and equal - in size to a large sheet of cartridge paper; this is called a <span - class="fss">BAT</span>, and when done it is gently <i>pressed down</i> by - the <i>wicker</i>, after which a damp linen cloth is laid all over, and on - this again is placed a thick piece of dry <span class="fss">HORSE HIDE</span>; - the workman now begins to press hard on the hide for about five minutes; - in the doing this the fur adheres close to the damp cloth, into which it - is <i>doubled up</i>, and once more undergoes the pressure of the hand. - Under this operation (which is called <span class="fss">BASONING</span>) - the <i>bat</i> becomes <i>consolidated</i>, and may be thrown, when taken - out of the cloth, from one end of the garret to the other without injury. - The second half is next bowed, formed into a <i>bat</i>, and <i>basoned</i> - as the first. This half <i>remains</i> on <i>the hurdle</i>, and a piece - of <i>paper</i>, somewhat conical, is placed on it, <i>over which</i>, and - agreeable to the shape, the sides of the bat are <i>doubled</i>. Here then - is formed one half of the <i>body</i>, this is laid aside, and the first - bat is then put flat on the hurdle <i>on which</i> the one previously - doubled is placed with its open part downwards; the lower bat being - transversely doubled over the top hat, forms a sort of conical, or - harlequin's cap; in this state it is once more put into the damp cloth, - where it receives another hardening for the purpose of uniting or <i>knitting</i> - both <i>bats</i> together; after this it is folded into the compass of <i>two - hands</i>, ready for the <i>plank</i>. The next thing is the <i>beaver</i>, - or covering, which is bowed in <i>form</i> to correspond with the <i>body</i>, - but has nothing to do with it in this stage. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - Matters being completed thus far, this is called the <i>first process of - Hat-making</i>. The second commences as follows:-The workman having gone - from the bow garret to the making shop, takes his stand at the battery, - under which is a <span class="fss">FIRE</span>, for the purpose of heating - the liquor;<a id="r1"></a><a href="#f1" class="c018"><sup>[1]</sup></a> - into this hot liquor the <i>body</i> is quickly <i>immersed</i>, where it - remains till soaked through; it is afterwards laid on the <i>plank</i> to - <i>drain</i> and <i>cool</i>; this done, it is unfolded, gently rolled, - turned at short intervals in every direction, to prevent the sides uniting - together; and as the <i>liquor</i> becomes <i>cold</i> and rolled out, it - is continually supplied with <i>hot</i> and fresh, by the sprinkling of a - <i>brush</i>, which is dipped in the <i>kettle</i> for that purpose; under - this operation, assisted by the astringency of the <i>vitriol</i>, the - body <i>shrinks</i>, and begins to assume a tough <i>substance</i>. When - it has shrunk to a <i>certain size</i> (say three-fifths, if to be <i>double</i> - covered), it is laid flat on the <i>plank</i>, and the <i>first</i> coat - of <i>beaver</i>, as it comes from the <i>bow</i>, is laid quite over it; - the <i>brush</i> is now dipped into the hot liquor, the contents of which - is sprinkled all over the <i>beaver</i>, directly afterwards it is gently - <i>patted down</i> with the hot brush; here the body is put into a <i>hair-cloth</i>, - rolled in hot liquor, turned inside out, rolled again until the <i>beaver</i>, - is completely worked into the body; when this is effected, it is in a fit - state to receive the <i>second</i> covering, which is put on as the first, - the <i>working</i>, <i>turning</i>, <i>patting</i>, and <i>rolling</i> - still continuing until it is reduced to a fit dimension, the <i>beaver</i> - quite <i>clean</i>, and all together assuming a closely <i>felted</i>, - fine, solid piece of workmanship; after which it is immediately <i>blocked</i> - in this same liquor, to the size wanted, and put into a <i>stove</i> to - dry, from whence it is taken, and with a small fine card the beaver is - gently raised; without this, one half would lie buried, and the beauty - lost.-Here then is the complete <span class="fss">PROCESS OF HAT-MAKING</span>. - </p> - <div class="footnote c019" id="f1"> - <p class="c020"> - <span class="label"><a href="#r1">1</a>. </span>The liquor, - which is always kept up to <i>scalding</i> heat, is nothing more than - clean soft water, with a wine glass of <i>vitriol</i>, and a small - quantity of beer dregs thrown in. The first is to <i>shrink</i> the body - of the Hat in working; the other to destroy the <i>pernicious</i> effect - of the vitriol. - </p> - </div> - <p class="c011"> - It is next sent to the <span class="fss">DYER</span> from whom it passes - to the <span class="fss">FINISHER</span>, who, after stiffening, blocking, - and <i>half</i> finishing, sends it to be picked, which is performed by a - woman, whose place it is to pull out the <i>kemps</i> or thick hairs, - without injuring the beaver,<a id="r2"></a><a href="#f2" class="c018"><sup>[2]</sup></a> - although that is not always accomplished. From the <i>picker</i> it - returns to the finisher who, by the <span class="fss">IRON</span> and - velvet cushion, gives it those highly brilliant and admired beauties that - an English Hat is so pre-eminently distinguished for. The shaper next - takes it in hand, who is guided in his operations by the <i>fancy</i> of - the wearer, if bespoke, which is sometimes a little <i>whimsical</i>. - After shaping, it goes to the <i>trimmer</i>, from whom it is returned to - the <span class="fss">TIPPER OFF</span>; he gets it ready for wearing; it - is then sent to its destination, when the master, if he is <i>fortunate</i>, - puts the amount into his pocket.<a id="r3"></a><a href="#f3" class="c018"><sup>[3]</sup></a> - </p> - <div class="footnote c019" id="f2"> - <p class="c020"> - <span class="label"><a href="#r2">2</a>. </span>It has - frequently been asked, why not make a Hat with <i>beaver only</i>, the - answer is, there is not sufficient <i>stamina</i> or strength in it to - become a sound <i>felted</i> substance. It would be worse than building - a <i>brick</i> house without <i>mortar</i> or some sort of cement, to - bind the whole together. - </p> - </div> - <div class="footnote c019" id="f3"> - <p class="c020"> - <span class="label"><a href="#r3">3</a>. </span>Some have - payment <i>before</i>-hand, which brings out the following old, but very - foolish saying, "there are but <i>two</i> bad paymasters, <i>he</i> who - pays beforehand, and <i>he</i> who <i>never</i> pays." How the latter - can be a <i>paymaster</i> requires some little ingenuity to determine. - </p> - </div> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c000" /> - </div> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c008"> - <span class="small">THE</span> <br /> <br /> LAWS AND CUSTOMS <br /> <br /> - <span class="small">OF</span> <br /> <br /> JOURNEYMEN HATTERS. - </h2> - </div> - <div class="figcenter id003"> - <img src="images/decoration.jpg" alt="" class="ig001" /> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">To</span> enter <i>fully</i> into the various regulations - and forms that the "<i>trade</i>" have, from time to time, instituted and - acted upon, would of itself fill a volume; all that can be done then in - this small work will be to give the best possible outline of such matters - as are most likely to interest those who may wish for information on the - subject. The most important laws of this trade are these:- - </p> - <p class="c011"> - <i>First</i>-No man shall work as a <i>maker</i> or <i>finisher</i>, - unless he has served an apprenticeship of seven years to what is called a - "<i>fair master</i>." - </p> - <p class="c011"> - <i>Second</i>-To be a fair master, and entitled, according to the rules of - the trade, to take an apprentice, he must have manufactured his <i>own - Hats</i>, seven years prior to the <i>taking</i>, or otherwise have served - a fair seven years' apprenticeship himself to the trade. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - <i>Third</i>-Whether there be one, two, or more in a manufacturing firm, - that firm are not to have more than two apprentices at one time. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - <i>Fourth</i>-There are a number of masters who do not manufacture their - own "<i>stuff</i>," but are employed by "<i>Great Houses</i>," who, - although they have a right, by law, to take apprentices, yet those - apprentices, by reason of their masters not working their <i>own materials</i>, - are never admitted to stand by the side of <i>fair men</i>, on which - account they must ever continue <i>foul</i>, and debarred of the usual - privileges, or submit to a <i>second</i> apprenticeship. This is a case - that frequently occurs; indeed it is no uncommon thing to see a man with a - wife and half a dozen children, himself near thirty years old, serving a - second apprenticeship for a fair time; the hardship of this must be - admitted, inasmuch as it is punishing a man for a fault he never - committed. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - <i>Fifth</i>-A <i>foul man</i> is one that has not served his - apprenticeship agreeably to the rule of the trade, or has been guilty of - some act detrimental to the <i>supposed</i> interests of the journeymen in - general. These are called "<span class="fss">KNOBSTICKS</span>." - </p> - <p class="c011"> - <i>Sixth</i>-A fair man has the privilege of what is called "<i>turns upon - tramp</i>," that is, if he cannot obtain work in the town where he - resides, or has an inclination to <i>travel</i>, he may journey or <i>tramp</i> - to the next; should any of the <i>fraternity</i> be there, and he wishes - to get "<i>shopped</i>" he is "<i>asked for</i>" by one in that factory, - (no man being allowed to ask for himself), if unsuccessful, there are two - night's lodging for him, two pots of strong beer, bread and cheese, and a - shilling or two to forward him to the next town. The <i>money turn</i> in - London is five shillings, but no man is entitled to a <i>second</i> turn - in one place, until after the expiration of six months from his receiving - the first. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - <i>Seventh</i>-If a journeyman has, by his own act, become <i>foul</i>, - nothing can absolve him but submitting to a <i>fine</i>, and this is - measured according to the offence, which, in some <i>heinous</i> cases, - such as "<i>creeping</i>" into favour with the master, or going to work - when all the rest have struck for wages, is as high as ten guineas. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - There are three distinct courts for the examination and punishment of - offenders. The <i>first</i>, or High Court of <span class="sc">Congress</span>, - is a sort of general assembly, composed of either Makers or Finishers, - just as their separate interests may be concerned; but on all joint - questions these parties form a <i>junction</i>. In this court matters of - importance only are discussed; as, for instance, the <i>advance of prices</i>, - the abrogation of old laws, and the making of new ones, under the <i>operation</i> - of which, it sometimes happens that both men and masters, as well as the - law of the land, are alike the victims. The <i>fines</i> levied in this - court are appropriated to special and "<span class="fss">STRIKING</span>" - purposes, often tending to produce a "<span class="fss">COMBINATION</span>" - of interesting effects. The masters too are not wholly exempt from these - pretty little combinations, which, however, do not always realize or carry - their intended <i>point</i>; this is owing (it is thought) to the vast - affection journeymen bear towards their employers; indeed so much so, that - they cannot bear the <i>latter</i> should "<span class="fss">LOWER</span>" - themselves. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - There is a court below this, which is formed by taking one or two men from - the seven <i>nearest</i> shops. Their sitting, if not <i>public</i>, is - sure to be in a <i>public-house</i>, president, <i>Sir John Barleycorn</i>. - The matters chiefly brought here are those that relate to the misconduct - of journeymen towards each other in the same factory, and which cannot be - settled where they originated. This is called "<span class="fss">DOZENING</span>," - and their power of <span class="fss">FINE</span> extends to two guineas, - which is drank in good old stout by the whole seven shops; but as all <i>dry</i> - subjects are prohibited in this tribune, the extent of fine greatly - depends on the state of the weather; so that if it be a sultry summer's - day, the punishment of an offender is in proportion to the <i>sun's heat</i>. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - The third and lowest <i>court</i> is an assembly of shop-mates only, this - meeting is called a "<span class="fss">GARRET MATCH</span>," and may be - demanded for the punishment of an aggressor, by any aggrieved man in a - factory. Power of fine from two to ten shillings. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - I have before stated that there are in this trade <i>foul</i> men; in - point of number they constitute about one-sixth part of the whole; but - their earnings, or price of labour is the same as the fair trade. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - A journeyman finisher in full work will earn, on an average, from three to - four pounds a-week; while, on the contrary, a maker cannot get more than - <i>fifty shillings</i>. This is a subject of much jealousy and discontent; - nor is it likely to be otherwise, unless the latter can raise himself to - an equality with the former; against this there are many obstacles, one of - which is, the <i>increasing</i> foul trade, who would continue working, - even though the fair men had "<i>struck</i>." Another is, that they could - never obtain the co-operation of the finishers, who, being amply paid - themselves, think it best to leave well alone. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - These are the <i>principal regulations</i> which govern journeymen - hatters, whether they have a good or a bad tendency is questionable; there - are many in the <i>trade</i> who decidedly condemn them, giving as their - reasons, that they encourage idleness, tippling, and endless squabbles. <i>Idleness</i>-inasmuch - as when men are summoned to discuss the most trifling matters, even though - the meeting be at five o'clock in the morning, they seldom feel <i>disposed</i> - to return to their work that day. <i>Tippling</i>-for the reason that, as - <i>fines</i> are mostly spent in <i>drink</i>, the conviction of a - supposed offender is generally <i>thirsted</i> after; but as the quantum - levied seldom suffices, all further supplies for the remainder of the day - are met by individual subscription. In these cases there is no show of - niggardliness, as every succeeding gallon of the "<i>sparkling entire</i>," - is but an <i>internal</i> messenger, bearing the glad tidings of another - to come. <i>Squabbles</i>, because it is natural, when the <i>desire</i> - for a thing is once created, and the gratification of that desire (where - nothing of criminality attaches) can be indulged, by having recourse to a - little contrivance, that the opportunity of so doing should be more - frequently <i>made</i>, than suffered to approach accidentally; which will - account for the <i>trifling magnitudes</i> that are allowed to agitate - shops and factories in general. The arguments in <i>favour</i> of these - laws are, that without them, apprentices would be careless in serving out - their <i>time</i>, the trade over-run with bad workmen, hats greatly - deteriorated in the manufacture, the excellence of which is their chief - recommendation in a foreign market, and the surest guarantee of the - master's profits at home. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - Having given the <i>contending</i> opinions, in reference to the laws of - this trade, I shall say a word or two concerning the shape, and manner of - placing a hat on the head. - </p> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c000" /> - </div> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c008"> - <span class="small">ON THE</span> <br /> <br /> <span class="xxlarge">SHAPE - AND STYLE</span> <br /> <br /> <span class="small">OF</span> <br /> <br /> - <span class="xxlarge">WEARING A HAT</span>. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">There</span> is no part of a man's dress that <i>makes</i> - or <i>mars</i> his appearance so much as his hat; not that it is its - striking beauty when new, or a want of it when old, that is most - materially concerned in producing either of the above effects; the grand - point is the <span class="sc">form</span>, and the position which it is - made to assume on the head; yet how few there are who give the least - attention to either, except indeed military men, and they in general are - uncommonly tasty, affording the best example of the precise style in which - a hat should be worn. It is no less singular than true, that the same hat, - by being placed on the head in different positions, will give, in <i>appearance</i>, - as many distinct <i>characters</i> to the <i>same person</i> as the number - of those positions amount to. The most striking are as follows:-<i>sullenness</i>-<i>indolence</i>-<i>gravity</i>, - and <i>good humoured impudence</i>. To give the first, draw the brim of - the hat so far over the eyes that they shall be quite concealed. The - second is produced by the hat being thrown quite back. The third by a prim - <i>horizontal</i> set, covering equally all parts of the head; and the - fourth will not be easily mistaken wherever an <i>extravagant cock</i> on - either side is brought full into view. These are undoubtedly all <i>extreme</i> - habits, and seldom pushed to the extent here described; yet a slight - inclination to either position may, under circumstances, have a very good - effect. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - There is another bad custom that ought to be noticed, which I shall do by - first observing, that a hat was intended solely to keep the head <i>dry</i>-<span - class="fss">ON</span> which it should be worn; but many seem to differ - from this opinion, using it as a sort of <span class="fss">NIGHT-CAP</span> - wherein is thrust head, ears, and all. This is a most slovenly practice, - as well as a dangerous one, inasmuch as it tends to keep the head in a - continual and <i>forced</i> state of perspiration, rendering a liability - to "<i>take cold</i>," every time the hat is removed. Yet even this habit - is not so bad as sticking the hat on the <i>back</i> of the head, which, - of all others, is the most general, and carries with it the greatest - impropriety, because such a position not only destroys the shape, but by - lodging on the coat collar, the hind part, from <i>friction</i>, becomes - greasy, and the binding is always in a state of raggedness; added to these - disadvantages, a most ridiculous effect is produced by the practice, that - is, the head in <i>appearance</i> is converted into a sort of <i>peg</i>, - <span class="fss">AGAINST</span> which the hat seems to <i>hang</i>, - instead of being placed <i>upon</i>. A man who indulges in so bad a - custom, should at least preserve a <i>consistency</i> in his dress by - walking "slip shoed," breeches knees open, and without braces, stockings - down, waistcoat unbuttoned, cravat half tied, one arm only in his coat - sleeve, and at least a six months' uncombed crop of hair about his - pericranium; here he would be of a piece; and grotesque as such a figure - must appear, by a general adoption of these "captivating negligencies," - there is no greater inconsistency in the whole catalogue than that of - wearing a hat on the <i>back part</i> of the head. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - As to the <i>form</i> of a hat, and what is best for <i>this face</i> or - <i>that person</i>, there is more in it than what is generally supposed, - and a great deal might be said on the subject; but to talk of a <i>standard - fashion</i> is absurd in the extreme, in proof of which it need only be - observed, that if very large hats were adopted, a thin man of five feet - high, would, by the wearing, become as complete a caricature, as a twenty - stone man of six feet would by wearing a very small one. The best fashion - a man can follow in a hat is that which best becomes him, and various as - heads, faces, and persons may be, all things are now accomplished (so far - as a hat is concerned) that can either <i>fit</i> the one or ornament the - other, - </p> - <p class="c021"> - By the Head's sincere friend, - </p> - <p class="c022"> - and well-wisher, - </p> - <p class="c023"> - R. L. - </p> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c007" /> - </div> - <p class="c024"> - <span class="large"><i>Furs used in a Hat of fine quality, according to - the present improved system of making, their proportions, value, cost of - manufacture, &c. &c.</i></span> - </p> - <div class="nf-center-c0"> - <div class="nf-center c005"> - <div> - FOR THE BODY. - </div> - </div> - </div> - <table class="table0" summary=""> - <colgroup> - <col width="62%" /> - <col width="9%" /> - <col width="12%" /> - <col width="15%" /> - </colgroup> - <tr> - <th class="c025"></th> - <th class="c026"> - s. d. - </th> - <th class="c027"> - per oz. - </th> - <th class="c028"> - s. d. - </th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - 4 oz. of seasoned coney wool, - </td> - <td class="c026"> - 1 0 - </td> - <td class="c027"> - .. - </td> - <td class="c028"> - 4 0 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - ½ oz. red wool - </td> - <td class="c026"> - 2 4 - </td> - <td class="c027"> - .. - </td> - <td class="c028"> - 1 2 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - ¼ oz. of silk - </td> - <td class="c026"> - 0 9 - </td> - <td class="c027"> - .. - </td> - <td class="c028"> - 0 4½ - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <div class="nf-center-c0"> - <div class="nf-center c000"> - <div> - FOR THE COVERING. - </div> - </div> - </div> - <table class="table0" summary=""> - <colgroup> - <col width="62%" /> - <col width="9%" /> - <col width="12%" /> - <col width="15%" /> - </colgroup> - <tr> - <th class="c025"></th> - <th class="c026"> - s. d. - </th> - <th class="c027"> - per oz. - </th> - <th class="c028"> - s. d. - </th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - 1 oz. of prime seasoned beaver - </td> - <td class="c026"> - 8 6<a id="r4"></a><a href="#f4" class="c018"><sup>[4]</sup></a> - </td> - <td class="c027"> - .. - </td> - <td class="c028"> - 8 6 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - Journeyman's wages for making<a id="r5"></a><a href="#f5" class="c018"><sup>[5]</sup></a> - </td> - <td class="c026"> - - </td> - <td class="c027"> - - </td> - <td class="c028"> - 3 6 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - Dyeing - </td> - <td class="c026"> - - </td> - <td class="c027"> - - </td> - <td class="c028"> - 0 8 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - Stiffening, finishing, and picking - </td> - <td class="c026"> - - </td> - <td class="c027"> - - </td> - <td class="c028"> - 1 8 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - Cost of lining, finding, band, and box - </td> - <td class="c026"> - - </td> - <td class="c027"> - - </td> - <td class="c028"> - 2 6 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - Sewing in of ditto - </td> - <td class="c026"> - - </td> - <td class="c027"> - - </td> - <td class="c028"> - 0 6 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - - </td> - <td class="c026"> - - </td> - <td class="c027"> - - </td> - <td class="c028"> - ----- - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - - </td> - <td class="c026"> - - </td> - <td class="c027"> - - </td> - <td class="c028"> - £1 2 10½ - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <div class="footnote c019" id="f4"> - <p class="c020"> - <span class="label"><a href="#r4">4</a>. </span>No hat can be - good, or well covered, with less than one ounce of prime beaver; and, - small as the quantity is, there was a time when journeymen makers - (catching the custom of their betters, and by way of tythe) thought it - no sin to appropriate a part of this material to their <i>own use</i>; - but, for the credit of the <i>trade</i> be it said, the practice is long - since abolished, and a man attempting it at the present day would be - scouted from the factory where he worked, by every honest journeyman - therein. - </p> - </div> - <div class="footnote c019" id="f5"> - <p class="c020"> - <span class="label"><a href="#r5">5</a>. </span>The average - week's work of a <i>maker</i> is about ten hats; that of a <i>finisher</i>, - from five to six dozen. - </p> - </div> - <p class="c011"> - Such is the cost of materials and labour at the present period; it is true - that the above scale is drawn from "credit prices;" but let every part of - a manufacturing concern be carried on for money only, which is rarely the - case, still the deduction from the <i>whole</i> cannot be more than 7½ per - cent. All substitutes for the above <i>materials</i> are decidedly - condemned; nor can their <i>quantities</i>, as here stated, be lessened, - without injury to the remainder. Here then is sufficient evidence that a - fine hat must, under the most favourable circumstances, stand the - manufacturer in upwards of twenty-one shillings, yet many <i>assume</i> a - capability of <i>retailing</i> such an article at less even than the - charge of manufacture. - </p> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c000" /> - </div> - <p class="c029"> - <i>A General List of</i> Lloyd's <i>Fashionable Hats, invented, - manufactured, and sold by him, at his Warehouse, 92, Newgate-Street, - London.</i> - </p> - <table class="table1" summary=""> - <colgroup> - <col width="36%" /> - <col width="63%" /> - </colgroup> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The John Bull - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Bang-up - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Wellington - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Jolliffe - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Tandem - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - Clericus - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Tally-Ho - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Bon-Ton - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Shallow - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Baronet - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Coburg - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Four-in-Hand - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Marquis - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - A Bit of Blood - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Eccentric - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Baron - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Regent - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - A Noble Lord - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Kent - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The New Dash - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Cumberland - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - A Paris Beau - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Esquire - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Brutus - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Vis-a-Vis - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Exquisite - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Petersham - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Irresistible - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Tilbury - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Pic Nic - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Count - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Viscount - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Medium - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - And the Dandy. - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <div class="nf-center-c0"> - <div class="nf-center c005"> - <div> - CONCLUSION. - </div> - </div> - </div> - <p class="c011"> - If the foregoing treatise to be judged by the <i>letter</i> and not the <i>spirit</i>-have - mercy reader. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - <span class="sc">Rules for measuring a hat.</span>-Take the circumference - on the <i>outside</i>, where the band is fixed, in inches. The breadth of - brim and depth of crown as wanted. - </p> - <hr class="c032" /> - <div class="nf-center-c0"> - <div class="nf-center"> - <div> - <i><span class="large">Entered at Stationer's Hall.</span></i> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <hr class="c033" /> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c007" /> - </div> - <ul class="ul_1 c007"> - <li> - Transcriber's Notes: - <ul class="ul_2"> - <li> - For the two tables outlining the expenses in making a new hat, the - shillings and pence abbreviations were moved to column headers to - fit line-width restrictions. - </li> - <li> - The original caption for the illustration of hat styles was almost - illegible. It was replaced in the illustration by typed-in text in a - similar typeface. - </li> - <li> - Missing or obscured punctuation was corrected. - </li> - <li> - Typographical errors were silently corrected. - </li> - <li> - Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when - a predominant form was found in this book. - </li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> -<pre xml:space="preserve"> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Lloyd's Treatise on Hats, by Robert Lloyd - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LLOYD'S TREATISE ON HATS *** - -***** This file should be named 56103-h.htm or 56103-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/6/1/0/56103/ - -Produced by ellinora, Barry Abrahamsen and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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-
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Lloyd's Treatise on Hats, by Robert Lloyd
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-Title: Lloyd's Treatise on Hats
- With Twenty-Four Engravings; Containing Novel Delineations
- of His Various Shapes, Shewing the Manner in Which They
- Should Be Worn...
-
-Author: Robert Lloyd
-
-Release Date: December 2, 2017 [EBook #56103]
-Last Updated: January 8, 2018
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LLOYD'S TREATISE ON HATS ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by ellinora, Barry Abrahamsen and the Online
-Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
-file was produced from images generously made available
-by The Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-</pre>
- <div class="figcenter id001">
- <img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="" class="ig001" />
- <div class="ic001">
- <p>
- <span class="small">The cover image was created by the transcriber and
- is placed in the public domain.</span>
- </p>
- </div>
- </div>
- <div class="pbb">
- <hr class="pb c000" />
- </div>
- <div>
- <h1 class="c001">
- <span class="xxlarge">LLOYD'S</span> <br /> <br /> <i>TREATISE ON HATS</i>,
- </h1>
- </div>
- <div class="nf-center-c1">
- <div class="nf-center c000">
- <div>
- <span class="small">WITH</span>
- </div>
- <div class="c000">
- <span class="large">TWENTY-FOUR ENGRAVINGS;</span>
- </div>
- <div class="c000">
- <span class="small">CONTAINING</span>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- <p class="c002">
- NOVEL DELINEATIONS OF HIS VARIOUS SHAPES, SHEWING THE MANNER IN WHICH THEY
- SHOULD BE WORN, THE SORT OF FACE AND PERSON BEST SUITED TO EACH PARTICULAR
- HAT, AND RULES FOR THEIR PRESERVATION; TO WHICH IS ADDED, THE WHOLE
- PROCESS OF HAT-MAKING; TOGETHER WITH THE CUSTOMS AND REGULATIONS OF
- JOURNEYMEN HATTERS, AND OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION.
- </p>
- <hr class="c003" />
- <div class="nf-center-c1">
- <div class="nf-center">
- <div>
- <i>Dedicated, with Permission, to the Head.</i>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- <hr class="c004" />
- <div class="nf-center-c1">
- <div class="nf-center c005">
- <div>
- SECOND EDITION.
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- <div class="nf-center-c1">
- <div class="nf-center">
- <div>
- <i>LONDON</i>:
- </div>
- <div class="c000">
- <span class="small">PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR,</span>
- </div>
- <div>
- <span class="small"><i>By F. Thorowgood, 9, Addle-Street, Aldermanbury</i>.</span>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- <hr class="c006" />
- <div class="nf-center-c1">
- <div class="nf-center">
- <div>
- <span class="small">1819.</span>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- <div class="pbb">
- <hr class="pb c007" />
- </div>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c008">
- PREFACE.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <hr class="c009" />
- <p class="c010">
- <span class="sc">To</span> what trifles do some men owe a perpetuation of
- their "<i>famous memory</i>." There is Nimrod, for instance, not but what
- he may have had other and <i>greater</i> merits, yet he is best known as a
- "<i>mighty hunter</i>," and one who "wore <i>boots</i>;" now, allowing the
- relation to be true, and that he <i>did</i> hunt, and he <i>did</i> wear
- boots, is there anything extraordinary attaching to either, unless indeed,
- it could be proved that he had <i>wooden legs</i>, or that he was capable
- of sitting on the backs of two or more animals at one time; and if such
- were not the case, the simple fact of itself was never worth recording; as
- well may it be said, a thousand years hence, that LLOYD <i>was a great
- Hatmaker, and lived in a great City</i>.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- But possibly the hunting system of this <i>old gentleman</i> differed
- materially from the pastime of our modern <i>Tally-ho's</i>, and instead
- of running after <i>hares</i>, <i>snipes</i>, and <i>conies</i>, Nimrod's
- sport was on the <i>field of battle</i>; in whose days the most rational
- idea is, that all was <i>game</i> which caused pursuits, and all pursuits
- <i>hunting</i>: If it were not so, and his majesty's capability only
- extended to the <i>riding</i> upon a <i>horse's back</i>, there is not a
- butcher's boy, in any country village between <span class="sc">Berwick</span>
- and <span class="sc">St. Ives</span>, that would not have ridden Nimrod's
- <i>rump</i> off. But it may be asked by those whose inclinations and
- patience shall lead them to hunt through the following pages, whether this
- is what it professes to be, a <span class="sc">Preface</span>, which is
- supposed to explain, or prepare the mind for something to come; the answer
- to which is as follows: A horse that will not <i>go</i> without another
- being led before him, is not worth <i>riding</i>, and if what is herein
- written requires a Preface to render it <i>intelligible</i>, it is not
- worth the <i>reading</i>.
- </p>
- <p class="c012">
- <i>May, 1819.</i>
- </p>
- <div class="pbb">
- <hr class="pb c007" />
- </div>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c008">
- JOHN BULL.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- <span class="sc">The</span> greatest difficulty a painter has
- professionally to encounter is to produce a striking resemblance of a
- countenance where there are no striking features: just so with the Hat
- called "<span class="sc">John Bull</span>." It has no marked style of
- peculiarity in the formation; but, independent of the <i>fine texture</i>,
- there is in it a combination of rare qualities not often met with: for
- instance-it has in appearance strong marks of becoming gravity-a bold but
- manly dignity-a pleasing diffidence, with a conscious, yet unassuming
- importance-and is recommended to persons somewhat robust in form, features
- full and round, with a complexion not too dark. In wearing, it should
- neither be placed aside, thrown too far back, nor brought particularly
- forward over the face, for the following reasons-the first position would
- bespeak an air of <i>non challance</i>-the second a sort of slovenly
- neglect in the person-and the third an incommunicative sullenness of
- disposition.
- </p>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c014">
- THE WELLINGTON.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- <span class="sc">So</span> called from the great Hero; not for the
- popularity of the name alone, but for the reason that such a Hat was
- actually worn by him; and, in fact, it is a shape uncommonly well suited
- both to his face and person; the former being a sort of <i>long oval</i>,
- and the latter without the least appearance of <i>bulk</i>: indeed a
- ponderous body, tall or short, with a round, or what is vulgarly termed a
- pudding face, cannot judiciously shelter itself under a Wellington. This
- Hat is not only particularly <i>becoming</i> the <i>person</i> of his
- Grace, but there is that in its appearance which is strongly
- characteristic of his great mind; for, to an excellently formed crown of
- about seven inches deep, overspreading an inch at top, there is united a
- fine arched brim of small dimensions, taking a smartish sweep of the
- fourth part of a circle, and when placed on the head somewhat <i>a la
- Francais</i>, carries with it an uncommon degree of brilliancy and fire:
- and the fore and hind parts terminating in a close <i>point</i>, clearly
- shows that, whether <i>advancing</i> or <i>retreating</i>, this modern
- <span class="sc">Cæsar</span> is always sure to <i>carry</i> his point.
- </p>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c014">
- THE TANDEM.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- This is a Hat wherein is displayed a good deal of what may be termed <i>character;</i>
- for which reason, its <i>becoming</i> wearers, comparatively speaking,
- will be few in number; but notwithstanding this <i>marked</i> peculiarity,
- there is a sort of <i>style</i> in its general feature which is uncommonly
- <i>striking;</i> nor is there any form whatever, where so much of that
- airy lightness is to be seen, as in the Tandem. Few persons over <i>thirty</i>
- become this Hat, and none under <i>twenty</i>, and even <i>between</i>
- those ages, if the head be more than twenty-two inches, or less than
- twenty-one and a half in circumference, the whole effect is destroyed.
- Shape of the face immaterial, provided the complexion is not <i>too</i>
- dingy; but, above all things, neither <i>overgrown</i> or little <i>fat</i>
- gentlemen should wear the Tandem. To have the best effect when on the
- head, it should be placed rather forward, inclining a little to one side.
- </p>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c014">
- THE TALLY-HO.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- A very comfortable and convenient hunting Hat, partaking in some degree
- the natural formation of the head: has many advantages over the old
- fashioned cap; is <i>light</i>, though strong-<i>porous</i>, which allows
- the heat of the head, arising from exertion, to fly off-and <i>elastic</i>,
- the effect of which is to sit close without pressure; but, above all, it
- has a most gentlemanly appearance, which it never fails to communicate to
- the wearer, particularly if he be a true sportsman.
- </p>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c014">
- THE SHALLOW.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- A Hat more admired for the ease and simplicity of style than for any
- peculiar character in its general appearance; being low in the crown, it
- is worn to most advantage by tall thin gentlemen with very large heads;
- and as the fore and hind part of the brim is <i>set</i> nearly horizontal
- from the base of the crown, it has two great advantages; the first of
- which is, that it may be conveniently worn over a wig; and, secondly, if
- worn <i>without</i>, the shirt collar is kept clean much longer than
- usual. This Hat, to have its proper effect, should be placed on the head
- with a strict <i>formality of set</i>, which in many persons will beget an
- air of <i>importance</i>. N. B. The late Justice Addington generally wore
- a shallow.
- </p>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c014">
- THE COBURG.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- <span class="sc">For</span> <i>style</i> and <i>form</i> has strong claims
- to favour; but, being rather small in appearance, the wearer, to show to
- most advantage, should be somewhat slender in his make, features not too
- prominent, and in stature about five feet five to five feet ten, but
- neither <i>above</i> nor <i>below</i>. One great advantage attending this
- Hat is, that the shape of the wearer's <i>nose</i> is not at all material,
- provided it be not of that class known by the term "bottled." It may be
- worn a little aside, but by no means placed too far on the head, a failing
- very general among <i>country</i> gentlemen.
- </p>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c014">
- THE MARQUIS.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- A well-proportioned Hat in every respect, and may, not inaptly, be termed
- the <i>Universal</i>, as it becomes most persons who wear it; in point of
- form, there is nothing of what may be called <i>character</i> or <i>singularity</i>
- in its appearance, and has the rare property of giving to the <i>wearer</i>
- a sort of dignified affability, a courteous condescension, together with
- an agreeable modesty, at least in <i>appearance</i>. It is named after a
- certain nobleman, who has all the above qualities united, although in the
- <i>prime of life</i>. To show to advantage on the head, this Hat should
- not go lower than the tip of the ears, both of which it may barely touch,
- unless the wearer has a short neck, in that case it must be worn somewhat
- aside, touching one ear only, but by no means to be <i>thrown back</i>.
- </p>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c014">
- THE ECCENTRIC.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- <i>Unique</i> in its way, strongly embodying the name in its <i>form</i>.
- This Hat is particularly recommended to gentlemen (and many are to be
- found) who hold their understandings libelled by acting, thinking,
- speaking, or dressing like <i>other men</i>; but, it must be observed,
- that slender persons with <i>dark</i> countenances, and about the middle
- size, best become these Hats: for, however eccentric a man would wish to
- appear, by adopting any <i>peculiar</i> mode of dress, he never can hope
- to succeed unless nature has done a <i>little</i> for him; it follows then
- of course, that a tall or short man, if he be stout and well grown, with a
- fine open florid countenance, cannot cleverly become an <i>Eccentric</i>;
- but an <i>agreeable</i> contorsion of the eye, a trifling disagreement in
- the symmetry of the shoulders, or a slight <i>bias</i> of the body <i>right</i>
- or <i>left</i>, are indescribable advantages in giving full effect to this
- Hat, which may be worn a little on one side, with a gentle inclination
- over the eyes, unless they are playing at cross purposes, in the event of
- which it must be thrown quite back, to give effect to their <i>playful
- humour</i>.
- </p>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c014">
- THE REGENT.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- A finely-formed and most decidedly elegant Hat: is somewhat upon a large
- scale, the crown being upwards of seven inches high, much yeoman, with an
- excellently turned and corresponding brim, producing together a happy
- union of the nicest proportions: It is worn to most advantage by persons
- whose height and bulk are above the common stature; not that it is meant
- to be understood, that every athletic or robust form would <i>become</i> a
- Regent; on the contrary, there is not a shape in the whole catalogue that
- demands in the wearer a greater share of <i>external requisites</i> than
- this; even the very <i>gait</i> is concerned, which, to strike, should be
- stately and firm, though easy, each step measuring exactly half the length
- of the whole body-more would become an absolute <i>stride</i>-and less a
- mere <i>strut</i>; than which nothing can be farther removed from graceful
- <i>carriage</i>: Be it understood, also, that the Regent is most becoming
- when placed a little on the <i>right</i> side, but by no means to come <i>within</i>
- half an inch of the ear-unless the latter should exceed its fair
- dimensions-in that case it were best hid altogether; but then, to do this,
- the Hat is forced beyond the proper position, and what was intended as
- ornament, becomes the very reverse: So circumstanced, the Noble Lord, the
- Shallow, or the John Bull, might be worn to most advantage; but when
- Nature has been a little attentive to the minuter parts, as well as the
- greater proportions of manly exterior, the Regent cannot fail to give
- additional dignity to the wearer; creating thereby a combination of
- elegancies that must render his appearance absolutely <span class="fss">IRRESISTIBLE</span>.
- </p>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c014">
- THE KENT.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- A very gentlemanly Hat, and although there is not the dignity of the
- Regent about it, there is, notwithstanding, much to admire: Indeed, the
- scale of proportions are very similar in both; the only <i>real</i>
- difference existing in the <i>crown</i>, which is about one-half of an
- inch lower than the latter; and, in the <i>nautical phraseology</i>, may
- not inaptly be termed a Regent cut down. It is very singular, and worth
- remarking, that trifling as the Kent differs from the Regent in actual
- measurement, the contrariety of effect, when on the head, is great and
- striking; which unquestionably proves, that a very slight deviation from a
- given rule will produce results more opposed to each other than the
- deviation is to the rule itself. The style in which this Hat should be
- worn is as follows:-if the head be of an <i>oval</i> form, place it
- thereon, as near as possible, in an horizontal position; but if a <i>round</i>
- head (which of all descriptions is most dreaded by a <i>castermonger</i>)
- let the Hat be thrown a <i>little</i> back, with a slight inclination on
- the side most agreeable, which will tend to prevent its assuming that <i>trencher</i>-like
- appearance too common from such causes. The <i>personal</i> requisites
- suitable to the Kent, may be found on referring to the Cobourg; with this
- difference, that, as the brim is of larger dimensions, the wearer, if he
- pleases, may be six feet high.
- </p>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c014">
- THE CUMBERLAND.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- <span class="sc">This</span> Hat, in outline and symmetry, is highly
- prepossessing, and will always have a number of admirers. The formation,
- dimensions, and style of the brim, are similar to the Regent and the Kent;
- but the crown is <i>taper</i> and much <i>shallower</i> than either. It
- should be worn as nearly horizontal as possible; and, if the wearer be of
- the middle stature, or above, his bulk or countenance is immaterial.
- </p>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c014">
- THE VIS-A-VIS.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- A remarkably <span class="fss">STYLISH HAT</span>, possessing great and <i>peculiar</i>
- advantages over most others, on which account its claims to patronage are
- of the highest order. The brim, before as well as behind, being brought
- down quite square, and almost in a perpendicular line with the crown
- itself, gives the wearer an opportunity of observing things <i>en passant</i>,
- by a sort of side-glance, without being <i>seen</i> so to do; thus, it is
- well adapted for gentlemen who would fain indulge in the most exquisite
- admiration of the beauteous <i>fair</i>: but by reason of their extreme <i>modesty</i>,
- shrink from the trial: There is, also, another and a very important
- consideration, which cannot be allowed to pass unnoticed-it is a
- well-known truth, that there are certain situations in life where the
- falling into is not at all times to be avoided; the result of which is, to
- create in the imagination, a perpetual apprehension lest some villainous
- intruder should, in defiance of eloquence or inclination, <i>compel</i>
- the <i>acceptance</i> of his official or rather <i>officious</i>
- attendance: to counteract so dirty a custom, as well as to nip the system
- in the very <i>bud</i>, this Hat is most admirably contrived-for by a
- simple elevation of the hinder part, the front may be brought so far over
- the face, as to form a complete shade for the countenance. Here then is
- the attainment of two <i>great</i> ends-modesty encouraged, and
- impertinence restrained. Lastly, and not the least of its useful purposes
- is, that should the introduction of the Vis-a-Vis become general, those
- novel and graceful evolutions of the body, denominated the <i>bend</i>,
- the <i>flutter</i>, and the <i>poke</i>, may be performed in a much
- smaller space than usual, and without the least danger to the eyes, which
- is greatly to be feared, when the distinguished votaries, in the eager
- performance of these newly-imported civilities, are brought too abruptly
- <i>face to face</i>.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- Although there is much of the <i>dash</i> in this Hat, it has,
- notwithstanding, a sort of <i>sombre</i> appearance, which calls on the
- wearer for a <i>figure</i> and <i>countenance</i> to correspond; it is
- therefore, if <i>ornamentally</i> considered, recommended to such only,
- whose complexion is of a darkish hue, visage long, not over bulky in
- person, and <i>above</i> the middle size; but, if <i>usefully</i>
- considered, all the nicer distinctions must yield to imperious necessity.
- </p>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c014">
- THE PETERSHAM.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- A connoisseur examining a fine painting, was asked by a bye-stander, which
- part he most admired; his answer was, "<i>no part</i>." "What!" observed
- the other, "is it possible that so highly talented a production as this is
- acknowledged to be, can have no merits in your estimation?" To which the
- connoisseur replied-"Sir, a work so masterly in execution-so striking in
- effect-so perfect in <i>all</i> its parts, cannot be truly estimated but
- as a <i>whole</i>." Here, then, the <i>picture</i> is the <i>Petersham</i>-the
- <i>selection</i> of beauties therein, the <i>difficulty</i>: To get rid of
- which, be it sufficient to state, that the prominent feature in this Hat
- is elegance of <i>style</i>, strongly visible in all its parts, and each
- part in unison with the whole; which for <i>tonish</i> and exquisite <i>dash</i>
- has no competitor. It will be seen, from what is here stated, that, much
- as this Hat is capable of transfusing its <i>graces</i> to the wearer (and
- who can doubt it), some <i>little</i> attention to <i>personal</i>
- requisites is necessary-which, in stature, should be over five feet seven,
- and not too lusty; countenance or complexion is of little consequence; but
- the visage should be oval, such corresponding uncommonly well with the
- fine <i>arched</i> brim, which forms nearly two-fifths of a circle; and,
- when tastefully placed on the head, with a slight inclination over the
- face, so as to bring the <i>fore</i> point on a line with the <i>tip</i>
- of the nose, such will be the result, that, whatever difficulty may attend
- a just description of its astonishing effects, the advantages to a wearer
- will most assuredly be <span class="fss">FELT</span>.
- </p>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c014">
- THE TILBURY.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- <span class="sc">This</span> Hat is bold in appearance, but full of <i>character</i>:
- Indeed, there is so much of the <i>whip</i> in its general outline, that
- it can never, with propriety, be worn but as a <i>driving</i> Hat.
- </p>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c014">
- THE BANG-UP.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- <span class="sc">What</span> a pleasing reflection it is, all things
- considered, that near as the human <i>form</i> may approach to perfection,
- still that form is capable of being <i>improved</i> by ingenuity; but
- then, the difficulty is to decide on what really <i>are improvements</i>:
- for instance, some will admire a fine slope in the coat <i>skirts</i>,
- tapering off like the tail of a goose; some (whether or no to catch the
- manners of a <i>hoyden</i>) will put on the <i>frock</i>; others, again,
- admire the <i>pantaloon</i>; and many give a decided preference to <i>inexpressibles</i>.
- But the <i>Bang-up</i>, as a Hat, is the very master-piece of inventive
- taste, wherein all admiration must of necessity <i>centre</i>, having not
- only in its general appearance a bold and manly <i>front</i>, but a
- pleasing harmony of parts, all tending to produce an agreeable union of <i>taste</i>
- and <i>utility</i>; who then would mount the "<i>box</i>" without being
- decorated with its chiefest ornament?
- </p>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c014">
- THE CLERICUS.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- A very <span class="sc">contemplative, sedate, pious-looking Hat</span>,
- much worn by Police-Officers, Quack-Doctors, and Clergymen; this, it may
- be said, is a strange assemblage of <i>characters</i> to bring under <i>one
- head</i>, and some may hold the <i>association</i> to be a reflection on
- the <i>latter</i>, when in truth the very <i>opposite</i> is intended; in
- proof of which it is only necessary to observe that, where the attainment
- of an object depends on <i>outward show</i>, such contrivances will be
- resorted to as are best calculated to secure the object in view; and the
- very <i>assumption</i> of the habit here spoken of by the "traps" and
- "quacks" of the day, is evidence of the habit itself being in the <i>highest
- possible estimation</i>. If taken in an <i>ornamental</i> point of view,
- it would be no easy task to decide on its merits; but if <i>usefully</i>
- considered, the conclusion is plain and easy. It is an admitted fact, that
- an idea of dignity cannot embody itself with <i>little things</i>, hence
- the custom of wearing <i>large wigs</i>, for such doubtless these Hats
- were originally intended, and for this reason, the hinder part being drawn
- up with loops in two places, no peruke, however large its dimensions, can
- receive the least injury; in short, it may be worn under this Hat with as
- little discomfiture to the <i>intricate friz</i> as though it were
- absolutely on the very block itself: here then is produced what may be
- termed a happy union of wisdom and piety, inasmuch as it is allowed, when
- speaking of high legal characters, that the <i>wisdom</i> is in the <i>wig</i>,
- and by the same rule (when Clericus is worn by a Divine) the <i>piety</i>
- must be in the <i>Hat</i>. The style of putting on will greatly depend on
- the size of the <i>peruke</i>, without which it should never be worn,
- particularly if the hair be <i>lank and black</i>.
- </p>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c014">
- THE BON-TON.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- <span class="sc">In</span> point of form and fine proportions, this Hat
- cannot fail to rank high in general estimation. Its appearance very much
- resembles the Wellington, or rather it is between the Wellington and the
- Marquis; and, like the latter, there is that becoming <i>style</i>, which
- not only <i>harmonizes</i>, but gives a <i>peculiar grace</i> to the
- majority of its wearers.
- </p>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c014">
- THE BARONET.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- <span class="sc">This</span> is a Hat highly respectable in appearance,
- and well suited to gentlemen in the <i>decline</i> of life; but as that is
- a state to which few will acknowledge while there is a capability of <i>hobbling
- without a crutch</i>, something definite had better be stated by giving
- the precise age;-take it then at <i>fifty</i>, which will put all doubts
- at rest. The reason for fixing on the Baronet, as suitable to those in
- declining years, is its grave, reflecting, methodical cast, such as would
- seem to say of the <i>wearer</i>-"Here is one that possesses a serenity of
- mind, an easy indifference of disposition, a tranquillity of thought,
- which would quietly disentangle itself from the vain, shadowy, fleeting
- desires of this life, and leave no regret behind." There are many other
- recommendatory properties in this Hat, but those already particularized
- are the most valuable; yes, <i>valuable</i>,-for it is a well-known fact,
- that mankind are often made up of contrivance, that is, they frequently
- give to <i>appearance</i> the shape of <i>reality</i>;-and however strange
- the doctrine may at first appear, it is nevertheless true, that the custom
- is often attended with very <i>beneficial results</i>, inasmuch as by <i>endeavouring</i>
- to maintain an <i>apparent</i> consistency between <i>habit</i> and <i>action</i>,
- the <i>propriety</i> of doing right becomes so strongly impressed on the
- mind, that the villainy of a bad practice is seen in its <i>worst
- deformity</i>, and conscience, the unerring monitor of the mind, rides
- triumphant over all. These are recommendations of no ordinary nature, and
- such that will no doubt cause much inquiry after the <i>Baronet</i>. As to
- growth or countenance, there is an old saying, that "beggars should not be
- choosers;" and the wearer, if he becomes so from <i>necessity</i>, will
- feel the propriety of leaving choice out of the question.
- </p>
- <div class="pbb">
- <hr class="pb c000" />
- </div>
- <div class="figcenter id002">
- <img src="images/i017.jpg" alt="" class="ig001" />
- <div class="ic001">
- <p>
- <i>Engraved for</i> <b>Lloyd's</b> <i>treatise on Hats.</i><br /><br /><i>John
- Bull. The Cobourg. The Baron. Clericus. The New Dash. The Shallow.<br /><br />The
- Cumberland. The Viz-a-viz. The Eccentric. The Wellington. A Noble
- Lord. The Tandem.<br /><br />The Marquis. The Tally-ho. The Bang-up.
- Baronet. The Paris Beau. The Bon Ton.<br /><br />A bit of Blood. The
- Jolliffe. The Dandy. The Regent. The Irresistible. The Petersham.<br /><br />Designed
- by R. Lloyd, Hat Maker, No. 92, Newgate-Street.</i>
- </p>
- </div>
- </div>
- <div class="pbb">
- <hr class="pb c007" />
- </div>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c014">
- THE JOLLIFFE.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- A mind which is struck, through the medium of sight, with impressions of
- sublimity, will have those impressions strengthened in proportion as the
- <i>magnitude</i> of the object viewed is the greater, and as all things
- are but great or small <i>comparatively</i>, it follows, of course, that
- bodies of the same class, description, or affinity, which are <i>less</i>
- than the <i>largest</i>, must suffer, when brought into the scale of
- comparison with their superiors: agreeably to these rules, the <span
- class="sc">Jolliffe</span>, whose dimensions exceed all others, comes
- forward with strong claims to patronage, for besides the importance with
- which it never fails to strike every beholder, it is sure to convey a
- corresponding importance to the <span class="fss">WEARER</span>. Here then
- are considerations which should not be trifled with, particularly as the
- <i>assumption</i> of a thing is often taken for the thing itself-nay, are
- there not situations in life where <i>appearances</i> become so vitally
- important that it would be little short of criminality not to <i>put them
- on</i>? and where the attainment of great ends may be insured by nothing
- more than a simple attention to the <i>formation</i> of a <i>Hat</i>, it
- would be worse than folly to neglect the means. Rightly taken, what a
- multiplicity of persons might be benefitted by the above <i>hints</i>;
- Princes, Peers, and Plenipotentiaries; Senators, State-ministers, or
- Trading Politicians;-all-all may find their interest in the adoption of
- the Jolliffe; and that these great personages may not plead ignorance as
- to the manner in which it should be worn with the best effect, here follow
- the proper instructions.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- If a <span class="sc">Prince</span>, let it be <i>lightly</i> placed on
- the head, and a little <i>aside</i>, which <i>bespeaks a sort of cheerful
- approving</i> confidence in one's own actions.-If a <span class="sc">Peer</span>,
- it should be worn in a firm horizontal position, just covering half the
- forehead; which gives the appearance of a wise and steady determination
- where great questions are agitated, particularly when they become <i>self</i>
- interesting.-If an <span class="sc">Ambassador</span>, it may be thrown a
- <i>little back</i>, inclining somewhat aside; such position indicating a
- bold and careless indifference to all around, which will be taken for
- granted that such could not arise from any other cause than a total
- disregard for the <i>result</i> of his mission; a practice, although not
- often hit on, may have many advantages. As to the three <i>latter</i>
- characters, their pursuits having all the same end-<span class="fss">POPULARITY</span>-let
- them consult the style of the Prince, and remember that, in whomsoever
- confidence has credit, popularity is sure to follow.
- </p>
- <hr class="c015" />
- <p class="c011">
- <span class="large">?</span> As the Jolliffe is not likely to be worn
- unless for <i>special purposes</i>, to give an idea who would best become
- it is unnecessary.
- </p>
- <div class="pbb">
- <hr class="pb c000" />
- </div>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c008">
- THE FOUR-IN-HAND.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <div class="lg-container-b c016">
- <div class="linegroup">
- <div class="group">
- <div class="line in4">
- A modern-styled <i>whip</i>,
- </div>
- <div class="line in4">
- Howe'er he may dip
- </div>
- <div class="line">
- Into fashion's wide vortex his <i>pinions</i>,
- </div>
- <div class="line in4">
- To make a bold stand,
- </div>
- <div class="line in4">
- <span class="sc">Lloyd's</span> prime <i>Four-in-Hand</i>
- </div>
- <div class="line">
- Must cover his <i>upper dominions</i>.
- </div>
- </div>
- <div class="group">
- <div class="line in4">
- For ease, form, and <i>set</i>,
- </div>
- <div class="line in4">
- The like never yet
- </div>
- <div class="line">
- Was seen, at least so run opinions;
- </div>
- <div class="line in4">
- Then ye four-in-hand whips,
- </div>
- <div class="line in4">
- In your <i>jarvey</i>-like trips
- </div>
- <div class="line">
- Take care of your <i>upper dominions</i>.
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- <div class="nf-center-c0">
- <div class="nf-center c000">
- <div>
- <i>DIMENSIONS</i>.
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- <div class="lg-container-b c017">
- <div class="linegroup">
- <div class="group">
- <div class="line in4">
- It measures, by rule,
- </div>
- <div class="line in4">
- Near three inches full
- </div>
- <div class="line">
- In the brim, with a crown wide at top;
- </div>
- <div class="line in4">
- Nor is there a <i>face</i>
- </div>
- <div class="line in4">
- But what it will <i>grace</i>,
- </div>
- <div class="line">
- If purchased at <span class="sc">Lloyd's</span> <i>fancy shop</i>.
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- <div class="pbb">
- <hr class="pb c007" />
- </div>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c008">
- A BIT OF BLOOD.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- The term itself naturally implies a something upon a <i>small</i> scale,
- which is the fact, and although there is nothing of that imposing dignity
- of style in the above Hat, which characterizes the <i>Regent</i>, the <i>Petersham</i>,
- &c. there is a <i>lively</i>, <i>animated</i>, and <i>vigorous</i>
- fire in all its features, that will not allow of any falling off in the
- general comparison. To give a complete catalogue of the many <span
- class="fss">VIRTUES</span> belonging to <i>a bit of blood</i>, would
- exceed the allotted limits; but it cannot be amiss to detail a few of the
- more <i>prominent</i>, that all, whose necessities may bear to the point,
- should be <i>benefitted</i> by the <i>wearing</i>: First then, it is
- admirably calculated for those who are about to ask <i>favors</i>, such
- being more readily <i>granted</i> when they seem the <i>less wanted</i>,
- and no one could suppose that the <i>saucy</i> animation which would be so
- strongly visible under this Hat could make the application from <span
- class="fss">NECESSITY</span>. Secondly, it will be of singular advantage
- to <i>elderly gentlemen</i> in pursuit of <i>young wives</i>, who nine
- times in ten decide on the choice of a man from the <i>cock</i>-of his
- Hat. Thirdly, (not that there is much need of it for such a purpose
- now-a-days) its advantages for those that are tormented with <i>dunns</i>
- are incalculable, for, by being placed pretty firm on the head, inclining
- rather to one side, at the same time assuming a sharp <i>erect</i>
- position of the body, a stern direction of the eye, and arms <i>a-kimbo</i>,
- the devil himself, in the shape of a <i>creditor</i>, would hardly hazard
- the <span class="fss">REPETITION OF A VISIT</span>.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- <span class="small"><i>N. B.</i> No service to gentlemen of the <i>learned</i>
- profession.</span>
- </p>
- <div class="pbb">
- <hr class="pb c000" />
- </div>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c008">
- <span class="xsmall">THE</span> <br /> <br /> <span class="xlarge"><i>PROCESS</i></span>
- <br /> <br /> <span class="small">OF</span> <br /> <br /> <span
- class="xxlarge">HAT-MAKING</span> <br /> <br /> EXPLAINED, <br /> <br />
- WITH PREFATORY REMARKS, &c. &c.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <hr class="c009" />
- <p class="c013">
- <span class="sc">Turks</span> are said to assign as a reason for not
- wearing Hats, that they are put together by <i>witchcraft</i>. There is
- certainly a great deal of ingenuity in the practice, and some <i>effects</i>
- produced whose <i>causes</i> are as yet unexplained: but, with all due
- deference to these <i>turban gentlemen</i>, it is presumed that they have
- objections beyond what is above stated, some of which are as follows:-<i>First</i>,
- their country is destitute of the most essential material-<span class="fss">FUR</span>.
- <i>Second</i>, the climate being extremely sultry, stoves, irons, and
- scalding water are not likely to become favourites. <i>Thirdly</i>, being
- compelled by their religion to keep their heads <i>close shaved</i>, a
- Hat, above all human inventions, would be the most ridiculous covering <i>they</i>
- could adopt.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- There are many opinions as to the time Hats were first invented, and, very
- probably, all equally erroneous. Some carry the date as far back as the
- foundation of Christianity, attributing the merit to St. Luke, of whom it
- is said, that he, having tender feet, put a layer of hair or fur between
- them and his sandals, in which situation friction and moisture caused such
- an interweaving of particles, that the whole became strongly united, or
- (technically called) <span class="fss">FELTED</span>. Whether the story,
- as applied to Luke, be true or false, is immaterial; but that such did
- happen with some one, is very likely; nor is it at all unlikely, but that
- an occurrence of this kind did really give the first idea of Hat-making.
- Having remarked thus much, I shall next proceed to state, what is not the
- less true than surprising, which is, that of the various branches of
- manufacture which this country is so highly distinguished for, none are
- less understood than Hat-making; nay, there is not one person in fifty
- who, if he were asked the question, could tell whether a Hat was or was
- not a <i>woven</i> substance; nor is there one in 500 but what suppose
- that the <i>skin</i> of a hare or rabbit is worked with the fur <i>attached</i>
- to it, as in the natural state; and, to form a correct judgment of the
- external material, when manufactured, whether it be hair, wool, or beaver,
- although many pretend, none are really competent but those <i>experienced</i>
- in the <i>trade</i>.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- To show the absurd notions some entertain on this matter, I state as a
- fact, that I do not know a manufacturer or seller in the trade but what
- has been applied to, by some one or other, to have a <i>Beaver</i> Hat
- made from a <i>hare</i>'s skin. Nay, I remember once offending a very good
- customer, and a man not wanting for sense either, by an involuntary burst
- of laughter, on his presenting the skin of a <i>French lap-dog</i> for the
- very same purpose.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- It is no uncommon thing for persons who are on pretty good terms with
- their capabilities to give opinions as to the <i>merits</i> or <i>demerits</i>
- of a Hat; which opinions are as opposite to the true state of the case as
- the sun's rays to a state of darkness. I shall give an instance, although
- a trifling one, of a very common error among persons who <i>suppose</i>
- themselves to have a knowledge of the subject, which is this, if the
- picker has not a very good eye, some of the larger hairs will be left in
- the Hat, and consequently the most <i>visible</i>; these are directly
- termed "<i>grey hairs</i>," when the truth is, that they are the <i>blackest</i>
- in the whole composition; but being thicker than the general mass, they
- receive a greater portion of <i>light</i>, which is mistaken for a grey
- colour: an easy method of proving the fact is to pull one of these <i>grey
- hairs</i> from the Hat, and place it on a piece of white paper, the <i>contrast</i>
- will decide the question.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- Again, whatever produces a glutinization of the <span class="fss">NAP</span>,
- is said to be the effect of the stiffening; this is not true in every
- case, for it is frequently owing to improper management in placing the
- Hat, when wet, before a large fire, which should never be done; the better
- way is, if very wet, to hang it up without brushing or wiping, and when
- dry it is easily put to rights, by gently passing over a clothes brush: if
- only slightly wet, wipe it with a handkerchief, and, when dry, it will
- brush clean. But the great fault with most persons is to put on their
- Hats, day after day, in the same <i>dirty state</i> as when taken off at
- night; from which it is natural to infer, that there must be a vast
- accumulation of dirt; it is this dirt, when exposed to the rain, that
- forms a sort of cement, or paste, having all the appearance of what is
- commonly called "<i>gum</i>."
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- Another proof of erroneous judgment-Profuse perspiration of the head is
- what many are subject to; by reason of which, from the frequency of
- wearing, and the <i>porosity</i> of the Hat, there is a continual
- absorption of moisture going on until it becomes completely <i>saturated</i>,
- particularly in front, the consequence is, that the nap lies buried in a
- greasy matter, which matter is also, but very inappropriately termed <i>gum</i>
- or <i>stiffening</i>, when in point of fact it is <i>neither</i>, for the
- very same effect would, under the like circumstances, be produced, and in
- much less time, if the Hat were not stiffened at all. The best remedy for
- this is a piece of thin flannel under the leather, and that frequently
- changed.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- There is nothing so detrimental to a Hat as a severe exposure to rain on
- the first, second, or even third time of wearing; for this reason, the
- materials wherewith it is composed are in a manner quite <i>green</i>, and
- require <i>seasoning</i>; to effect which it should be frequently put on
- in dry weather. I have always found that a Hat, constantly worn for five
- or six weeks <i>without being wet</i>, underwent every sort of hardship
- afterwards with little or no injury, retaining at the same time its
- beauty-form-and wearing <i>three times longer</i> than it otherwise would
- have done. It may be asked, why not, to prevent accidents, render the Hat
- <i>water-proof</i>? that is, impervious to the action of either atmosphere
- or rain. The thing is easy enough, I admit; but where there is a choice of
- only <i>two evils</i>, it is always best to select the <i>least</i>. We
- all know (or should know) that if a man were to enclose himself, arms,
- legs, and body, in what is called an <i>oil-skin dress</i>, and that drawn
- close round the neck, the whole tightly fitted to every part of his person
- as a Hat is to the head, the most unpleasant consequences would ensue; the
- cause why is obviously this, the exhalations of the body, particularly in
- a state of exertion, would when so <i>enclosed</i>, be either prevented
- from flying off, as nature requires, or otherwise checked altogether;
- precisely so with the head if the porosity of the Hat was destroyed, which
- it must be to resist effectually the action of water. This deduction must
- be so clear and self-evident that further reasoning is unnecessary.
- Another great objection against water-proof <i>Hats</i> is, that the
- ingredients made use of for such purposes, when exposed to the sun's heat,
- are so acted upon as to cause a <i>decomposition</i> of the colour, and
- nine times in ten, the Hat, before it is half worn out, becomes any thing
- but what it was meant to be.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- It is astonishing to hear the number of qualifications a Hat is <i>said</i>
- to have, and each as opposite to the other as it is possible for any two
- things to be; some, for instance, maintain that it cannot be good unless
- it is <i>light</i>, others again will decidedly condemn it for <i>being so</i>,
- insisting that the chief recommendation is its being firm and <i>stout</i>.
- All that is requisite to be observed on this, is that <i>weight</i> has no
- more to do with the <i>quality</i> of a Hat, than the situation of prime
- minister has to do with the cramming of turkies. A very inferior Hat may
- be made <i>equally light</i> with the most superior, and in both cases the
- cost of manufacture will be less than if they were made <i>stout</i>.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- The length of the beaver too is another point on which the difference of
- opinion is often experienced; many are for very <i>short naps</i>,
- declaring all others to be outrageously vulgar; but the majority of
- wearers seem best pleased with <i>long</i> naps, which always <i>take</i>
- and <i>retain</i> the best <i>black</i>, while, on the contrary those that
- are very short never do. A medium between the two is the most preferable.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- Having stated thus much, I shall next proceed to explain in what way a
- fine Hat is <i>made</i>, describing as accurately as possible the various
- processes it undergoes, as also the materials with which it is composed,
- the proportions of each as well as the quantity of work a man is capable
- of doing, whether <i>maker</i> or <i>finisher</i>, in a week, the amount
- of wages, together with some of the curious regulations, by-laws, &c.
- &c. &c.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- In the first place, as I shall have occasion to mention a few of the <i>implements</i>
- by name, a short description of them may not be amiss.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- There is the <span class="fss">BOW</span>, which in form is not unlike
- what is used for playing on a <i>double bass</i>, but in length and
- thickness is equal to a constable's staff; there is a bridge at each end,
- from one to the other of which is tightly strung a stout line of <i>catgut</i>.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- The <span class="fss">HURDLE</span> is situate in what is called the bow
- garret, and is a sort of <i>table</i>, on which the <i>fur</i> is bowed,
- or mixed, having the farther end and sides enclosed to prevent the
- material from being blown away.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- The <span class="fss">BATTERY</span> is somewhat like the hopper of a
- mill, in this is contained the hot <i>liquor</i>, and is mostly
- constructed for eight men, <i>round</i> which they stand when <i>making</i>;
- the lower part is lead, the upper or working part mahogany. All batteries
- are formed into divisions called <span class="fss">PLANKS</span>, one of
- which is allotted to each man. There are many other little things used by
- makers, but these three are all that deserve particular notice.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- The first thing a maker looks for in the morning is the <span class="fss">FUR</span>,
- or raw material, which is furnished to him by <i>weight</i>; the quantity
- being more or less, according to the substance of the Hat required, and is
- in <i>two</i> parcels, one of which contains the <span class="fss">BEAVER</span>,
- or napping; the other the <span class="fss">BODY</span> (a proportionate
- scale of both will be seen hereafter). Thus provided he takes it to the
- <span class="fss">BOW GARRET</span>; the materials for the body are first
- placed on the hurdle, and the bow being hung at the centre for support, is
- held in the left hand horizontally, so that the catgut may come in contact
- with the fur; in the <i>right</i> hand is placed a small piece of stick,
- with a <i>nut</i> at the end, and in this position the work begins after
- the following manner. The <i>catgut</i> of the bow (being first placed in
- the midst of the <i>fur</i>) is pulled or struck with the knotted stick,
- which produces, from a quick repetition of the stroke, a continued <i>vibration</i>,
- this <i>vibration</i> it is that causes a separation or <i>flitting</i> of
- the fur, at the same time mixing and cleansing it. This operation is
- continued until such ends are fully attained. It is next divided into <i>halves</i>,
- one of which is laid aside, and the other again bowed over. In this second
- operation the workman contrives, partly by bowing, and partly by a slight
- <i>wicker frame</i>, to bring the material into an oblong form, and equal
- in size to a large sheet of cartridge paper; this is called a <span
- class="fss">BAT</span>, and when done it is gently <i>pressed down</i> by
- the <i>wicker</i>, after which a damp linen cloth is laid all over, and on
- this again is placed a thick piece of dry <span class="fss">HORSE HIDE</span>;
- the workman now begins to press hard on the hide for about five minutes;
- in the doing this the fur adheres close to the damp cloth, into which it
- is <i>doubled up</i>, and once more undergoes the pressure of the hand.
- Under this operation (which is called <span class="fss">BASONING</span>)
- the <i>bat</i> becomes <i>consolidated</i>, and may be thrown, when taken
- out of the cloth, from one end of the garret to the other without injury.
- The second half is next bowed, formed into a <i>bat</i>, and <i>basoned</i>
- as the first. This half <i>remains</i> on <i>the hurdle</i>, and a piece
- of <i>paper</i>, somewhat conical, is placed on it, <i>over which</i>, and
- agreeable to the shape, the sides of the bat are <i>doubled</i>. Here then
- is formed one half of the <i>body</i>, this is laid aside, and the first
- bat is then put flat on the hurdle <i>on which</i> the one previously
- doubled is placed with its open part downwards; the lower bat being
- transversely doubled over the top hat, forms a sort of conical, or
- harlequin's cap; in this state it is once more put into the damp cloth,
- where it receives another hardening for the purpose of uniting or <i>knitting</i>
- both <i>bats</i> together; after this it is folded into the compass of <i>two
- hands</i>, ready for the <i>plank</i>. The next thing is the <i>beaver</i>,
- or covering, which is bowed in <i>form</i> to correspond with the <i>body</i>,
- but has nothing to do with it in this stage.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- Matters being completed thus far, this is called the <i>first process of
- Hat-making</i>. The second commences as follows:-The workman having gone
- from the bow garret to the making shop, takes his stand at the battery,
- under which is a <span class="fss">FIRE</span>, for the purpose of heating
- the liquor;<a id="r1"></a><a href="#f1" class="c018"><sup>[1]</sup></a>
- into this hot liquor the <i>body</i> is quickly <i>immersed</i>, where it
- remains till soaked through; it is afterwards laid on the <i>plank</i> to
- <i>drain</i> and <i>cool</i>; this done, it is unfolded, gently rolled,
- turned at short intervals in every direction, to prevent the sides uniting
- together; and as the <i>liquor</i> becomes <i>cold</i> and rolled out, it
- is continually supplied with <i>hot</i> and fresh, by the sprinkling of a
- <i>brush</i>, which is dipped in the <i>kettle</i> for that purpose; under
- this operation, assisted by the astringency of the <i>vitriol</i>, the
- body <i>shrinks</i>, and begins to assume a tough <i>substance</i>. When
- it has shrunk to a <i>certain size</i> (say three-fifths, if to be <i>double</i>
- covered), it is laid flat on the <i>plank</i>, and the <i>first</i> coat
- of <i>beaver</i>, as it comes from the <i>bow</i>, is laid quite over it;
- the <i>brush</i> is now dipped into the hot liquor, the contents of which
- is sprinkled all over the <i>beaver</i>, directly afterwards it is gently
- <i>patted down</i> with the hot brush; here the body is put into a <i>hair-cloth</i>,
- rolled in hot liquor, turned inside out, rolled again until the <i>beaver</i>,
- is completely worked into the body; when this is effected, it is in a fit
- state to receive the <i>second</i> covering, which is put on as the first,
- the <i>working</i>, <i>turning</i>, <i>patting</i>, and <i>rolling</i>
- still continuing until it is reduced to a fit dimension, the <i>beaver</i>
- quite <i>clean</i>, and all together assuming a closely <i>felted</i>,
- fine, solid piece of workmanship; after which it is immediately <i>blocked</i>
- in this same liquor, to the size wanted, and put into a <i>stove</i> to
- dry, from whence it is taken, and with a small fine card the beaver is
- gently raised; without this, one half would lie buried, and the beauty
- lost.-Here then is the complete <span class="fss">PROCESS OF HAT-MAKING</span>.
- </p>
- <div class="footnote c019" id="f1">
- <p class="c020">
- <span class="label"><a href="#r1">1</a>. </span>The liquor,
- which is always kept up to <i>scalding</i> heat, is nothing more than
- clean soft water, with a wine glass of <i>vitriol</i>, and a small
- quantity of beer dregs thrown in. The first is to <i>shrink</i> the body
- of the Hat in working; the other to destroy the <i>pernicious</i> effect
- of the vitriol.
- </p>
- </div>
- <p class="c011">
- It is next sent to the <span class="fss">DYER</span> from whom it passes
- to the <span class="fss">FINISHER</span>, who, after stiffening, blocking,
- and <i>half</i> finishing, sends it to be picked, which is performed by a
- woman, whose place it is to pull out the <i>kemps</i> or thick hairs,
- without injuring the beaver,<a id="r2"></a><a href="#f2" class="c018"><sup>[2]</sup></a>
- although that is not always accomplished. From the <i>picker</i> it
- returns to the finisher who, by the <span class="fss">IRON</span> and
- velvet cushion, gives it those highly brilliant and admired beauties that
- an English Hat is so pre-eminently distinguished for. The shaper next
- takes it in hand, who is guided in his operations by the <i>fancy</i> of
- the wearer, if bespoke, which is sometimes a little <i>whimsical</i>.
- After shaping, it goes to the <i>trimmer</i>, from whom it is returned to
- the <span class="fss">TIPPER OFF</span>; he gets it ready for wearing; it
- is then sent to its destination, when the master, if he is <i>fortunate</i>,
- puts the amount into his pocket.<a id="r3"></a><a href="#f3" class="c018"><sup>[3]</sup></a>
- </p>
- <div class="footnote c019" id="f2">
- <p class="c020">
- <span class="label"><a href="#r2">2</a>. </span>It has
- frequently been asked, why not make a Hat with <i>beaver only</i>, the
- answer is, there is not sufficient <i>stamina</i> or strength in it to
- become a sound <i>felted</i> substance. It would be worse than building
- a <i>brick</i> house without <i>mortar</i> or some sort of cement, to
- bind the whole together.
- </p>
- </div>
- <div class="footnote c019" id="f3">
- <p class="c020">
- <span class="label"><a href="#r3">3</a>. </span>Some have
- payment <i>before</i>-hand, which brings out the following old, but very
- foolish saying, "there are but <i>two</i> bad paymasters, <i>he</i> who
- pays beforehand, and <i>he</i> who <i>never</i> pays." How the latter
- can be a <i>paymaster</i> requires some little ingenuity to determine.
- </p>
- </div>
- <div class="pbb">
- <hr class="pb c000" />
- </div>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c008">
- <span class="small">THE</span> <br /> <br /> LAWS AND CUSTOMS <br /> <br />
- <span class="small">OF</span> <br /> <br /> JOURNEYMEN HATTERS.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <div class="figcenter id003">
- <img src="images/decoration.jpg" alt="" class="ig001" />
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- <span class="sc">To</span> enter <i>fully</i> into the various regulations
- and forms that the "<i>trade</i>" have, from time to time, instituted and
- acted upon, would of itself fill a volume; all that can be done then in
- this small work will be to give the best possible outline of such matters
- as are most likely to interest those who may wish for information on the
- subject. The most important laws of this trade are these:-
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- <i>First</i>-No man shall work as a <i>maker</i> or <i>finisher</i>,
- unless he has served an apprenticeship of seven years to what is called a
- "<i>fair master</i>."
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- <i>Second</i>-To be a fair master, and entitled, according to the rules of
- the trade, to take an apprentice, he must have manufactured his <i>own
- Hats</i>, seven years prior to the <i>taking</i>, or otherwise have served
- a fair seven years' apprenticeship himself to the trade.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- <i>Third</i>-Whether there be one, two, or more in a manufacturing firm,
- that firm are not to have more than two apprentices at one time.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- <i>Fourth</i>-There are a number of masters who do not manufacture their
- own "<i>stuff</i>," but are employed by "<i>Great Houses</i>," who,
- although they have a right, by law, to take apprentices, yet those
- apprentices, by reason of their masters not working their <i>own materials</i>,
- are never admitted to stand by the side of <i>fair men</i>, on which
- account they must ever continue <i>foul</i>, and debarred of the usual
- privileges, or submit to a <i>second</i> apprenticeship. This is a case
- that frequently occurs; indeed it is no uncommon thing to see a man with a
- wife and half a dozen children, himself near thirty years old, serving a
- second apprenticeship for a fair time; the hardship of this must be
- admitted, inasmuch as it is punishing a man for a fault he never
- committed.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- <i>Fifth</i>-A <i>foul man</i> is one that has not served his
- apprenticeship agreeably to the rule of the trade, or has been guilty of
- some act detrimental to the <i>supposed</i> interests of the journeymen in
- general. These are called "<span class="fss">KNOBSTICKS</span>."
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- <i>Sixth</i>-A fair man has the privilege of what is called "<i>turns upon
- tramp</i>," that is, if he cannot obtain work in the town where he
- resides, or has an inclination to <i>travel</i>, he may journey or <i>tramp</i>
- to the next; should any of the <i>fraternity</i> be there, and he wishes
- to get "<i>shopped</i>" he is "<i>asked for</i>" by one in that factory,
- (no man being allowed to ask for himself), if unsuccessful, there are two
- night's lodging for him, two pots of strong beer, bread and cheese, and a
- shilling or two to forward him to the next town. The <i>money turn</i> in
- London is five shillings, but no man is entitled to a <i>second</i> turn
- in one place, until after the expiration of six months from his receiving
- the first.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- <i>Seventh</i>-If a journeyman has, by his own act, become <i>foul</i>,
- nothing can absolve him but submitting to a <i>fine</i>, and this is
- measured according to the offence, which, in some <i>heinous</i> cases,
- such as "<i>creeping</i>" into favour with the master, or going to work
- when all the rest have struck for wages, is as high as ten guineas.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- There are three distinct courts for the examination and punishment of
- offenders. The <i>first</i>, or High Court of <span class="sc">Congress</span>,
- is a sort of general assembly, composed of either Makers or Finishers,
- just as their separate interests may be concerned; but on all joint
- questions these parties form a <i>junction</i>. In this court matters of
- importance only are discussed; as, for instance, the <i>advance of prices</i>,
- the abrogation of old laws, and the making of new ones, under the <i>operation</i>
- of which, it sometimes happens that both men and masters, as well as the
- law of the land, are alike the victims. The <i>fines</i> levied in this
- court are appropriated to special and "<span class="fss">STRIKING</span>"
- purposes, often tending to produce a "<span class="fss">COMBINATION</span>"
- of interesting effects. The masters too are not wholly exempt from these
- pretty little combinations, which, however, do not always realize or carry
- their intended <i>point</i>; this is owing (it is thought) to the vast
- affection journeymen bear towards their employers; indeed so much so, that
- they cannot bear the <i>latter</i> should "<span class="fss">LOWER</span>"
- themselves.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- There is a court below this, which is formed by taking one or two men from
- the seven <i>nearest</i> shops. Their sitting, if not <i>public</i>, is
- sure to be in a <i>public-house</i>, president, <i>Sir John Barleycorn</i>.
- The matters chiefly brought here are those that relate to the misconduct
- of journeymen towards each other in the same factory, and which cannot be
- settled where they originated. This is called "<span class="fss">DOZENING</span>,"
- and their power of <span class="fss">FINE</span> extends to two guineas,
- which is drank in good old stout by the whole seven shops; but as all <i>dry</i>
- subjects are prohibited in this tribune, the extent of fine greatly
- depends on the state of the weather; so that if it be a sultry summer's
- day, the punishment of an offender is in proportion to the <i>sun's heat</i>.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- The third and lowest <i>court</i> is an assembly of shop-mates only, this
- meeting is called a "<span class="fss">GARRET MATCH</span>," and may be
- demanded for the punishment of an aggressor, by any aggrieved man in a
- factory. Power of fine from two to ten shillings.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- I have before stated that there are in this trade <i>foul</i> men; in
- point of number they constitute about one-sixth part of the whole; but
- their earnings, or price of labour is the same as the fair trade.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- A journeyman finisher in full work will earn, on an average, from three to
- four pounds a-week; while, on the contrary, a maker cannot get more than
- <i>fifty shillings</i>. This is a subject of much jealousy and discontent;
- nor is it likely to be otherwise, unless the latter can raise himself to
- an equality with the former; against this there are many obstacles, one of
- which is, the <i>increasing</i> foul trade, who would continue working,
- even though the fair men had "<i>struck</i>." Another is, that they could
- never obtain the co-operation of the finishers, who, being amply paid
- themselves, think it best to leave well alone.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- These are the <i>principal regulations</i> which govern journeymen
- hatters, whether they have a good or a bad tendency is questionable; there
- are many in the <i>trade</i> who decidedly condemn them, giving as their
- reasons, that they encourage idleness, tippling, and endless squabbles. <i>Idleness</i>-inasmuch
- as when men are summoned to discuss the most trifling matters, even though
- the meeting be at five o'clock in the morning, they seldom feel <i>disposed</i>
- to return to their work that day. <i>Tippling</i>-for the reason that, as
- <i>fines</i> are mostly spent in <i>drink</i>, the conviction of a
- supposed offender is generally <i>thirsted</i> after; but as the quantum
- levied seldom suffices, all further supplies for the remainder of the day
- are met by individual subscription. In these cases there is no show of
- niggardliness, as every succeeding gallon of the "<i>sparkling entire</i>,"
- is but an <i>internal</i> messenger, bearing the glad tidings of another
- to come. <i>Squabbles</i>, because it is natural, when the <i>desire</i>
- for a thing is once created, and the gratification of that desire (where
- nothing of criminality attaches) can be indulged, by having recourse to a
- little contrivance, that the opportunity of so doing should be more
- frequently <i>made</i>, than suffered to approach accidentally; which will
- account for the <i>trifling magnitudes</i> that are allowed to agitate
- shops and factories in general. The arguments in <i>favour</i> of these
- laws are, that without them, apprentices would be careless in serving out
- their <i>time</i>, the trade over-run with bad workmen, hats greatly
- deteriorated in the manufacture, the excellence of which is their chief
- recommendation in a foreign market, and the surest guarantee of the
- master's profits at home.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- Having given the <i>contending</i> opinions, in reference to the laws of
- this trade, I shall say a word or two concerning the shape, and manner of
- placing a hat on the head.
- </p>
- <div class="pbb">
- <hr class="pb c000" />
- </div>
- <div class="chapter">
- <h2 class="c008">
- <span class="small">ON THE</span> <br /> <br /> <span class="xxlarge">SHAPE
- AND STYLE</span> <br /> <br /> <span class="small">OF</span> <br /> <br />
- <span class="xxlarge">WEARING A HAT</span>.
- </h2>
- </div>
- <p class="c013">
- <span class="sc">There</span> is no part of a man's dress that <i>makes</i>
- or <i>mars</i> his appearance so much as his hat; not that it is its
- striking beauty when new, or a want of it when old, that is most
- materially concerned in producing either of the above effects; the grand
- point is the <span class="sc">form</span>, and the position which it is
- made to assume on the head; yet how few there are who give the least
- attention to either, except indeed military men, and they in general are
- uncommonly tasty, affording the best example of the precise style in which
- a hat should be worn. It is no less singular than true, that the same hat,
- by being placed on the head in different positions, will give, in <i>appearance</i>,
- as many distinct <i>characters</i> to the <i>same person</i> as the number
- of those positions amount to. The most striking are as follows:-<i>sullenness</i>-<i>indolence</i>-<i>gravity</i>,
- and <i>good humoured impudence</i>. To give the first, draw the brim of
- the hat so far over the eyes that they shall be quite concealed. The
- second is produced by the hat being thrown quite back. The third by a prim
- <i>horizontal</i> set, covering equally all parts of the head; and the
- fourth will not be easily mistaken wherever an <i>extravagant cock</i> on
- either side is brought full into view. These are undoubtedly all <i>extreme</i>
- habits, and seldom pushed to the extent here described; yet a slight
- inclination to either position may, under circumstances, have a very good
- effect.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- There is another bad custom that ought to be noticed, which I shall do by
- first observing, that a hat was intended solely to keep the head <i>dry</i>-<span
- class="fss">ON</span> which it should be worn; but many seem to differ
- from this opinion, using it as a sort of <span class="fss">NIGHT-CAP</span>
- wherein is thrust head, ears, and all. This is a most slovenly practice,
- as well as a dangerous one, inasmuch as it tends to keep the head in a
- continual and <i>forced</i> state of perspiration, rendering a liability
- to "<i>take cold</i>," every time the hat is removed. Yet even this habit
- is not so bad as sticking the hat on the <i>back</i> of the head, which,
- of all others, is the most general, and carries with it the greatest
- impropriety, because such a position not only destroys the shape, but by
- lodging on the coat collar, the hind part, from <i>friction</i>, becomes
- greasy, and the binding is always in a state of raggedness; added to these
- disadvantages, a most ridiculous effect is produced by the practice, that
- is, the head in <i>appearance</i> is converted into a sort of <i>peg</i>,
- <span class="fss">AGAINST</span> which the hat seems to <i>hang</i>,
- instead of being placed <i>upon</i>. A man who indulges in so bad a
- custom, should at least preserve a <i>consistency</i> in his dress by
- walking "slip shoed," breeches knees open, and without braces, stockings
- down, waistcoat unbuttoned, cravat half tied, one arm only in his coat
- sleeve, and at least a six months' uncombed crop of hair about his
- pericranium; here he would be of a piece; and grotesque as such a figure
- must appear, by a general adoption of these "captivating negligencies,"
- there is no greater inconsistency in the whole catalogue than that of
- wearing a hat on the <i>back part</i> of the head.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- As to the <i>form</i> of a hat, and what is best for <i>this face</i> or
- <i>that person</i>, there is more in it than what is generally supposed,
- and a great deal might be said on the subject; but to talk of a <i>standard
- fashion</i> is absurd in the extreme, in proof of which it need only be
- observed, that if very large hats were adopted, a thin man of five feet
- high, would, by the wearing, become as complete a caricature, as a twenty
- stone man of six feet would by wearing a very small one. The best fashion
- a man can follow in a hat is that which best becomes him, and various as
- heads, faces, and persons may be, all things are now accomplished (so far
- as a hat is concerned) that can either <i>fit</i> the one or ornament the
- other,
- </p>
- <p class="c021">
- By the Head's sincere friend,
- </p>
- <p class="c022">
- and well-wisher,
- </p>
- <p class="c023">
- R. L.
- </p>
- <div class="pbb">
- <hr class="pb c007" />
- </div>
- <p class="c024">
- <span class="large"><i>Furs used in a Hat of fine quality, according to
- the present improved system of making, their proportions, value, cost of
- manufacture, &c. &c.</i></span>
- </p>
- <div class="nf-center-c0">
- <div class="nf-center c005">
- <div>
- FOR THE BODY.
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- <table class="table0" summary="">
- <colgroup>
- <col width="62%" />
- <col width="9%" />
- <col width="12%" />
- <col width="15%" />
- </colgroup>
- <tr>
- <th class="c025"></th>
- <th class="c026">
- s. d.
- </th>
- <th class="c027">
- per oz.
- </th>
- <th class="c028">
- s. d.
- </th>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c025">
- 4 oz. of seasoned coney wool,
- </td>
- <td class="c026">
- 1 0
- </td>
- <td class="c027">
- ..
- </td>
- <td class="c028">
- 4 0
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c025">
- ½ oz. red wool
- </td>
- <td class="c026">
- 2 4
- </td>
- <td class="c027">
- ..
- </td>
- <td class="c028">
- 1 2
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c025">
- ¼ oz. of silk
- </td>
- <td class="c026">
- 0 9
- </td>
- <td class="c027">
- ..
- </td>
- <td class="c028">
- 0 4½
- </td>
- </tr>
- </table>
- <div class="nf-center-c0">
- <div class="nf-center c000">
- <div>
- FOR THE COVERING.
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- <table class="table0" summary="">
- <colgroup>
- <col width="62%" />
- <col width="9%" />
- <col width="12%" />
- <col width="15%" />
- </colgroup>
- <tr>
- <th class="c025"></th>
- <th class="c026">
- s. d.
- </th>
- <th class="c027">
- per oz.
- </th>
- <th class="c028">
- s. d.
- </th>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c025">
- 1 oz. of prime seasoned beaver
- </td>
- <td class="c026">
- 8 6<a id="r4"></a><a href="#f4" class="c018"><sup>[4]</sup></a>
- </td>
- <td class="c027">
- ..
- </td>
- <td class="c028">
- 8 6
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c025">
- Journeyman's wages for making<a id="r5"></a><a href="#f5" class="c018"><sup>[5]</sup></a>
- </td>
- <td class="c026">
-
- </td>
- <td class="c027">
-
- </td>
- <td class="c028">
- 3 6
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c025">
- Dyeing
- </td>
- <td class="c026">
-
- </td>
- <td class="c027">
-
- </td>
- <td class="c028">
- 0 8
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c025">
- Stiffening, finishing, and picking
- </td>
- <td class="c026">
-
- </td>
- <td class="c027">
-
- </td>
- <td class="c028">
- 1 8
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c025">
- Cost of lining, finding, band, and box
- </td>
- <td class="c026">
-
- </td>
- <td class="c027">
-
- </td>
- <td class="c028">
- 2 6
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c025">
- Sewing in of ditto
- </td>
- <td class="c026">
-
- </td>
- <td class="c027">
-
- </td>
- <td class="c028">
- 0 6
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c025">
-
- </td>
- <td class="c026">
-
- </td>
- <td class="c027">
-
- </td>
- <td class="c028">
- -----
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c025">
-
- </td>
- <td class="c026">
-
- </td>
- <td class="c027">
-
- </td>
- <td class="c028">
- £1 2 10½
- </td>
- </tr>
- </table>
- <div class="footnote c019" id="f4">
- <p class="c020">
- <span class="label"><a href="#r4">4</a>. </span>No hat can be
- good, or well covered, with less than one ounce of prime beaver; and,
- small as the quantity is, there was a time when journeymen makers
- (catching the custom of their betters, and by way of tythe) thought it
- no sin to appropriate a part of this material to their <i>own use</i>;
- but, for the credit of the <i>trade</i> be it said, the practice is long
- since abolished, and a man attempting it at the present day would be
- scouted from the factory where he worked, by every honest journeyman
- therein.
- </p>
- </div>
- <div class="footnote c019" id="f5">
- <p class="c020">
- <span class="label"><a href="#r5">5</a>. </span>The average
- week's work of a <i>maker</i> is about ten hats; that of a <i>finisher</i>,
- from five to six dozen.
- </p>
- </div>
- <p class="c011">
- Such is the cost of materials and labour at the present period; it is true
- that the above scale is drawn from "credit prices;" but let every part of
- a manufacturing concern be carried on for money only, which is rarely the
- case, still the deduction from the <i>whole</i> cannot be more than 7½ per
- cent. All substitutes for the above <i>materials</i> are decidedly
- condemned; nor can their <i>quantities</i>, as here stated, be lessened,
- without injury to the remainder. Here then is sufficient evidence that a
- fine hat must, under the most favourable circumstances, stand the
- manufacturer in upwards of twenty-one shillings, yet many <i>assume</i> a
- capability of <i>retailing</i> such an article at less even than the
- charge of manufacture.
- </p>
- <div class="pbb">
- <hr class="pb c000" />
- </div>
- <p class="c029">
- <i>A General List of</i> Lloyd's <i>Fashionable Hats, invented,
- manufactured, and sold by him, at his Warehouse, 92, Newgate-Street,
- London.</i>
- </p>
- <table class="table1" summary="">
- <colgroup>
- <col width="36%" />
- <col width="63%" />
- </colgroup>
- <tr>
- <td class="c030">
- The John Bull
- </td>
- <td class="blt c031">
- The Bang-up
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c030">
- The Wellington
- </td>
- <td class="blt c031">
- The Jolliffe
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c030">
- The Tandem
- </td>
- <td class="blt c031">
- Clericus
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c030">
- The Tally-Ho
- </td>
- <td class="blt c031">
- The Bon-Ton
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c030">
- The Shallow
- </td>
- <td class="blt c031">
- The Baronet
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c030">
- The Coburg
- </td>
- <td class="blt c031">
- The Four-in-Hand
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c030">
- The Marquis
- </td>
- <td class="blt c031">
- A Bit of Blood
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c030">
- The Eccentric
- </td>
- <td class="blt c031">
- The Baron
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c030">
- The Regent
- </td>
- <td class="blt c031">
- A Noble Lord
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c030">
- The Kent
- </td>
- <td class="blt c031">
- The New Dash
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c030">
- The Cumberland
- </td>
- <td class="blt c031">
- A Paris Beau
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c030">
- The Esquire
- </td>
- <td class="blt c031">
- The Brutus
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c030">
- The Vis-a-Vis
- </td>
- <td class="blt c031">
- The Exquisite
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c030">
- The Petersham
- </td>
- <td class="blt c031">
- The Irresistible
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c030">
- The Tilbury
- </td>
- <td class="blt c031">
- The Pic Nic
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c030">
- The Count
- </td>
- <td class="blt c031">
- The Viscount
- </td>
- </tr>
- <tr>
- <td class="c030">
- The Medium
- </td>
- <td class="blt c031">
- And the Dandy.
- </td>
- </tr>
- </table>
- <div class="nf-center-c0">
- <div class="nf-center c005">
- <div>
- CONCLUSION.
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- <p class="c011">
- If the foregoing treatise to be judged by the <i>letter</i> and not the <i>spirit</i>-have
- mercy reader.
- </p>
- <p class="c011">
- <span class="sc">Rules for measuring a hat.</span>-Take the circumference
- on the <i>outside</i>, where the band is fixed, in inches. The breadth of
- brim and depth of crown as wanted.
- </p>
- <hr class="c032" />
- <div class="nf-center-c0">
- <div class="nf-center">
- <div>
- <i><span class="large">Entered at Stationer's Hall.</span></i>
- </div>
- </div>
- </div>
- <hr class="c033" />
- <div class="pbb">
- <hr class="pb c007" />
- </div>
- <ul class="ul_1 c007">
- <li>
- Transcriber's Notes:
- <ul class="ul_2">
- <li>
- For the two tables outlining the expenses in making a new hat, the
- shillings and pence abbreviations were moved to column headers to
- fit line-width restrictions.
- </li>
- <li>
- The original caption for the illustration of hat styles was almost
- illegible. It was replaced in the illustration by typed-in text in a
- similar typeface.
- </li>
- <li>
- Missing or obscured punctuation was corrected.
- </li>
- <li>
- Typographical errors were silently corrected.
- </li>
- <li>
- Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when
- a predominant form was found in this book.
- </li>
- </ul>
- </li>
- </ul>
-<pre xml:space="preserve">
-
-
-
-
-
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