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- margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c025 { vertical-align: top; text-align: left; text-indent: -1em; - padding-left: 1em; padding-right: 1em; } - .c026 { vertical-align: top; text-align: right; padding-right: 1em; } - .c027 { vertical-align: top; text-align: center; padding-right: 1em; } - .c028 { vertical-align: top; text-align: right; } - .c029 { margin-left: 5.56%; text-indent: -5.56%; margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 0.5em; } - .c030 { vertical-align: top; text-align: left; padding-left: .5em; - padding-right: .5em; } - .c031 { vertical-align: top; text-align: left; text-indent: 1.4em; - padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em; } - .c032 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 12%; width: 75%; margin-right: 13%; - margin-top: 2em; } - .c033 { border: none; border-bottom: thin solid; margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 12%; width: 75%; margin-right: 13%; } - </style> - </head> - <body> -<pre xml:space="preserve"> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Lloyd's Treatise on Hats, by Robert Lloyd - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Lloyd's Treatise on Hats - With Twenty-Four Engravings; Containing Novel Delineations - of His Various Shapes, Shewing the Manner in Which They - Should Be Worn... - -Author: Robert Lloyd - -Release Date: December 2, 2017 [EBook #56103] -Last Updated: January 8, 2018 - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LLOYD'S TREATISE ON HATS *** - - - - -Produced by ellinora, Barry Abrahamsen and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - <div class="figcenter id001"> - <img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="" class="ig001" /> - <div class="ic001"> - <p> - <span class="small">The cover image was created by the transcriber and - is placed in the public domain.</span> - </p> - </div> - </div> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c000" /> - </div> - <div> - <h1 class="c001"> - <span class="xxlarge">LLOYD'S</span> <br /> <br /> <i>TREATISE ON HATS</i>, - </h1> - </div> - <div class="nf-center-c1"> - <div class="nf-center c000"> - <div> - <span class="small">WITH</span> - </div> - <div class="c000"> - <span class="large">TWENTY-FOUR ENGRAVINGS;</span> - </div> - <div class="c000"> - <span class="small">CONTAINING</span> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <p class="c002"> - NOVEL DELINEATIONS OF HIS VARIOUS SHAPES, SHEWING THE MANNER IN WHICH THEY - SHOULD BE WORN, THE SORT OF FACE AND PERSON BEST SUITED TO EACH PARTICULAR - HAT, AND RULES FOR THEIR PRESERVATION; TO WHICH IS ADDED, THE WHOLE - PROCESS OF HAT-MAKING; TOGETHER WITH THE CUSTOMS AND REGULATIONS OF - JOURNEYMEN HATTERS, AND OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION. - </p> - <hr class="c003" /> - <div class="nf-center-c1"> - <div class="nf-center"> - <div> - <i>Dedicated, with Permission, to the Head.</i> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <hr class="c004" /> - <div class="nf-center-c1"> - <div class="nf-center c005"> - <div> - SECOND EDITION. - </div> - </div> - </div> - <div class="nf-center-c1"> - <div class="nf-center"> - <div> - <i>LONDON</i>: - </div> - <div class="c000"> - <span class="small">PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR,</span> - </div> - <div> - <span class="small"><i>By F. Thorowgood, 9, Addle-Street, Aldermanbury</i>.</span> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <hr class="c006" /> - <div class="nf-center-c1"> - <div class="nf-center"> - <div> - <span class="small">1819.</span> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c007" /> - </div> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c008"> - PREFACE. - </h2> - </div> - <hr class="c009" /> - <p class="c010"> - <span class="sc">To</span> what trifles do some men owe a perpetuation of - their "<i>famous memory</i>." There is Nimrod, for instance, not but what - he may have had other and <i>greater</i> merits, yet he is best known as a - "<i>mighty hunter</i>," and one who "wore <i>boots</i>;" now, allowing the - relation to be true, and that he <i>did</i> hunt, and he <i>did</i> wear - boots, is there anything extraordinary attaching to either, unless indeed, - it could be proved that he had <i>wooden legs</i>, or that he was capable - of sitting on the backs of two or more animals at one time; and if such - were not the case, the simple fact of itself was never worth recording; as - well may it be said, a thousand years hence, that LLOYD <i>was a great - Hatmaker, and lived in a great City</i>. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - But possibly the hunting system of this <i>old gentleman</i> differed - materially from the pastime of our modern <i>Tally-ho's</i>, and instead - of running after <i>hares</i>, <i>snipes</i>, and <i>conies</i>, Nimrod's - sport was on the <i>field of battle</i>; in whose days the most rational - idea is, that all was <i>game</i> which caused pursuits, and all pursuits - <i>hunting</i>: If it were not so, and his majesty's capability only - extended to the <i>riding</i> upon a <i>horse's back</i>, there is not a - butcher's boy, in any country village between <span class="sc">Berwick</span> - and <span class="sc">St. Ives</span>, that would not have ridden Nimrod's - <i>rump</i> off. But it may be asked by those whose inclinations and - patience shall lead them to hunt through the following pages, whether this - is what it professes to be, a <span class="sc">Preface</span>, which is - supposed to explain, or prepare the mind for something to come; the answer - to which is as follows: A horse that will not <i>go</i> without another - being led before him, is not worth <i>riding</i>, and if what is herein - written requires a Preface to render it <i>intelligible</i>, it is not - worth the <i>reading</i>. - </p> - <p class="c012"> - <i>May, 1819.</i> - </p> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c007" /> - </div> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c008"> - JOHN BULL. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">The</span> greatest difficulty a painter has - professionally to encounter is to produce a striking resemblance of a - countenance where there are no striking features: just so with the Hat - called "<span class="sc">John Bull</span>." It has no marked style of - peculiarity in the formation; but, independent of the <i>fine texture</i>, - there is in it a combination of rare qualities not often met with: for - instance-it has in appearance strong marks of becoming gravity-a bold but - manly dignity-a pleasing diffidence, with a conscious, yet unassuming - importance-and is recommended to persons somewhat robust in form, features - full and round, with a complexion not too dark. In wearing, it should - neither be placed aside, thrown too far back, nor brought particularly - forward over the face, for the following reasons-the first position would - bespeak an air of <i>non challance</i>-the second a sort of slovenly - neglect in the person-and the third an incommunicative sullenness of - disposition. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE WELLINGTON. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">So</span> called from the great Hero; not for the - popularity of the name alone, but for the reason that such a Hat was - actually worn by him; and, in fact, it is a shape uncommonly well suited - both to his face and person; the former being a sort of <i>long oval</i>, - and the latter without the least appearance of <i>bulk</i>: indeed a - ponderous body, tall or short, with a round, or what is vulgarly termed a - pudding face, cannot judiciously shelter itself under a Wellington. This - Hat is not only particularly <i>becoming</i> the <i>person</i> of his - Grace, but there is that in its appearance which is strongly - characteristic of his great mind; for, to an excellently formed crown of - about seven inches deep, overspreading an inch at top, there is united a - fine arched brim of small dimensions, taking a smartish sweep of the - fourth part of a circle, and when placed on the head somewhat <i>a la - Francais</i>, carries with it an uncommon degree of brilliancy and fire: - and the fore and hind parts terminating in a close <i>point</i>, clearly - shows that, whether <i>advancing</i> or <i>retreating</i>, this modern - <span class="sc">Cæsar</span> is always sure to <i>carry</i> his point. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE TANDEM. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - This is a Hat wherein is displayed a good deal of what may be termed <i>character;</i> - for which reason, its <i>becoming</i> wearers, comparatively speaking, - will be few in number; but notwithstanding this <i>marked</i> peculiarity, - there is a sort of <i>style</i> in its general feature which is uncommonly - <i>striking;</i> nor is there any form whatever, where so much of that - airy lightness is to be seen, as in the Tandem. Few persons over <i>thirty</i> - become this Hat, and none under <i>twenty</i>, and even <i>between</i> - those ages, if the head be more than twenty-two inches, or less than - twenty-one and a half in circumference, the whole effect is destroyed. - Shape of the face immaterial, provided the complexion is not <i>too</i> - dingy; but, above all things, neither <i>overgrown</i> or little <i>fat</i> - gentlemen should wear the Tandem. To have the best effect when on the - head, it should be placed rather forward, inclining a little to one side. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE TALLY-HO. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - A very comfortable and convenient hunting Hat, partaking in some degree - the natural formation of the head: has many advantages over the old - fashioned cap; is <i>light</i>, though strong-<i>porous</i>, which allows - the heat of the head, arising from exertion, to fly off-and <i>elastic</i>, - the effect of which is to sit close without pressure; but, above all, it - has a most gentlemanly appearance, which it never fails to communicate to - the wearer, particularly if he be a true sportsman. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE SHALLOW. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - A Hat more admired for the ease and simplicity of style than for any - peculiar character in its general appearance; being low in the crown, it - is worn to most advantage by tall thin gentlemen with very large heads; - and as the fore and hind part of the brim is <i>set</i> nearly horizontal - from the base of the crown, it has two great advantages; the first of - which is, that it may be conveniently worn over a wig; and, secondly, if - worn <i>without</i>, the shirt collar is kept clean much longer than - usual. This Hat, to have its proper effect, should be placed on the head - with a strict <i>formality of set</i>, which in many persons will beget an - air of <i>importance</i>. N. B. The late Justice Addington generally wore - a shallow. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE COBURG. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">For</span> <i>style</i> and <i>form</i> has strong claims - to favour; but, being rather small in appearance, the wearer, to show to - most advantage, should be somewhat slender in his make, features not too - prominent, and in stature about five feet five to five feet ten, but - neither <i>above</i> nor <i>below</i>. One great advantage attending this - Hat is, that the shape of the wearer's <i>nose</i> is not at all material, - provided it be not of that class known by the term "bottled." It may be - worn a little aside, but by no means placed too far on the head, a failing - very general among <i>country</i> gentlemen. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE MARQUIS. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - A well-proportioned Hat in every respect, and may, not inaptly, be termed - the <i>Universal</i>, as it becomes most persons who wear it; in point of - form, there is nothing of what may be called <i>character</i> or <i>singularity</i> - in its appearance, and has the rare property of giving to the <i>wearer</i> - a sort of dignified affability, a courteous condescension, together with - an agreeable modesty, at least in <i>appearance</i>. It is named after a - certain nobleman, who has all the above qualities united, although in the - <i>prime of life</i>. To show to advantage on the head, this Hat should - not go lower than the tip of the ears, both of which it may barely touch, - unless the wearer has a short neck, in that case it must be worn somewhat - aside, touching one ear only, but by no means to be <i>thrown back</i>. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE ECCENTRIC. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <i>Unique</i> in its way, strongly embodying the name in its <i>form</i>. - This Hat is particularly recommended to gentlemen (and many are to be - found) who hold their understandings libelled by acting, thinking, - speaking, or dressing like <i>other men</i>; but, it must be observed, - that slender persons with <i>dark</i> countenances, and about the middle - size, best become these Hats: for, however eccentric a man would wish to - appear, by adopting any <i>peculiar</i> mode of dress, he never can hope - to succeed unless nature has done a <i>little</i> for him; it follows then - of course, that a tall or short man, if he be stout and well grown, with a - fine open florid countenance, cannot cleverly become an <i>Eccentric</i>; - but an <i>agreeable</i> contorsion of the eye, a trifling disagreement in - the symmetry of the shoulders, or a slight <i>bias</i> of the body <i>right</i> - or <i>left</i>, are indescribable advantages in giving full effect to this - Hat, which may be worn a little on one side, with a gentle inclination - over the eyes, unless they are playing at cross purposes, in the event of - which it must be thrown quite back, to give effect to their <i>playful - humour</i>. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE REGENT. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - A finely-formed and most decidedly elegant Hat: is somewhat upon a large - scale, the crown being upwards of seven inches high, much yeoman, with an - excellently turned and corresponding brim, producing together a happy - union of the nicest proportions: It is worn to most advantage by persons - whose height and bulk are above the common stature; not that it is meant - to be understood, that every athletic or robust form would <i>become</i> a - Regent; on the contrary, there is not a shape in the whole catalogue that - demands in the wearer a greater share of <i>external requisites</i> than - this; even the very <i>gait</i> is concerned, which, to strike, should be - stately and firm, though easy, each step measuring exactly half the length - of the whole body-more would become an absolute <i>stride</i>-and less a - mere <i>strut</i>; than which nothing can be farther removed from graceful - <i>carriage</i>: Be it understood, also, that the Regent is most becoming - when placed a little on the <i>right</i> side, but by no means to come <i>within</i> - half an inch of the ear-unless the latter should exceed its fair - dimensions-in that case it were best hid altogether; but then, to do this, - the Hat is forced beyond the proper position, and what was intended as - ornament, becomes the very reverse: So circumstanced, the Noble Lord, the - Shallow, or the John Bull, might be worn to most advantage; but when - Nature has been a little attentive to the minuter parts, as well as the - greater proportions of manly exterior, the Regent cannot fail to give - additional dignity to the wearer; creating thereby a combination of - elegancies that must render his appearance absolutely <span class="fss">IRRESISTIBLE</span>. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE KENT. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - A very gentlemanly Hat, and although there is not the dignity of the - Regent about it, there is, notwithstanding, much to admire: Indeed, the - scale of proportions are very similar in both; the only <i>real</i> - difference existing in the <i>crown</i>, which is about one-half of an - inch lower than the latter; and, in the <i>nautical phraseology</i>, may - not inaptly be termed a Regent cut down. It is very singular, and worth - remarking, that trifling as the Kent differs from the Regent in actual - measurement, the contrariety of effect, when on the head, is great and - striking; which unquestionably proves, that a very slight deviation from a - given rule will produce results more opposed to each other than the - deviation is to the rule itself. The style in which this Hat should be - worn is as follows:-if the head be of an <i>oval</i> form, place it - thereon, as near as possible, in an horizontal position; but if a <i>round</i> - head (which of all descriptions is most dreaded by a <i>castermonger</i>) - let the Hat be thrown a <i>little</i> back, with a slight inclination on - the side most agreeable, which will tend to prevent its assuming that <i>trencher</i>-like - appearance too common from such causes. The <i>personal</i> requisites - suitable to the Kent, may be found on referring to the Cobourg; with this - difference, that, as the brim is of larger dimensions, the wearer, if he - pleases, may be six feet high. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE CUMBERLAND. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">This</span> Hat, in outline and symmetry, is highly - prepossessing, and will always have a number of admirers. The formation, - dimensions, and style of the brim, are similar to the Regent and the Kent; - but the crown is <i>taper</i> and much <i>shallower</i> than either. It - should be worn as nearly horizontal as possible; and, if the wearer be of - the middle stature, or above, his bulk or countenance is immaterial. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE VIS-A-VIS. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - A remarkably <span class="fss">STYLISH HAT</span>, possessing great and <i>peculiar</i> - advantages over most others, on which account its claims to patronage are - of the highest order. The brim, before as well as behind, being brought - down quite square, and almost in a perpendicular line with the crown - itself, gives the wearer an opportunity of observing things <i>en passant</i>, - by a sort of side-glance, without being <i>seen</i> so to do; thus, it is - well adapted for gentlemen who would fain indulge in the most exquisite - admiration of the beauteous <i>fair</i>: but by reason of their extreme <i>modesty</i>, - shrink from the trial: There is, also, another and a very important - consideration, which cannot be allowed to pass unnoticed-it is a - well-known truth, that there are certain situations in life where the - falling into is not at all times to be avoided; the result of which is, to - create in the imagination, a perpetual apprehension lest some villainous - intruder should, in defiance of eloquence or inclination, <i>compel</i> - the <i>acceptance</i> of his official or rather <i>officious</i> - attendance: to counteract so dirty a custom, as well as to nip the system - in the very <i>bud</i>, this Hat is most admirably contrived-for by a - simple elevation of the hinder part, the front may be brought so far over - the face, as to form a complete shade for the countenance. Here then is - the attainment of two <i>great</i> ends-modesty encouraged, and - impertinence restrained. Lastly, and not the least of its useful purposes - is, that should the introduction of the Vis-a-Vis become general, those - novel and graceful evolutions of the body, denominated the <i>bend</i>, - the <i>flutter</i>, and the <i>poke</i>, may be performed in a much - smaller space than usual, and without the least danger to the eyes, which - is greatly to be feared, when the distinguished votaries, in the eager - performance of these newly-imported civilities, are brought too abruptly - <i>face to face</i>. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - Although there is much of the <i>dash</i> in this Hat, it has, - notwithstanding, a sort of <i>sombre</i> appearance, which calls on the - wearer for a <i>figure</i> and <i>countenance</i> to correspond; it is - therefore, if <i>ornamentally</i> considered, recommended to such only, - whose complexion is of a darkish hue, visage long, not over bulky in - person, and <i>above</i> the middle size; but, if <i>usefully</i> - considered, all the nicer distinctions must yield to imperious necessity. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE PETERSHAM. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - A connoisseur examining a fine painting, was asked by a bye-stander, which - part he most admired; his answer was, "<i>no part</i>." "What!" observed - the other, "is it possible that so highly talented a production as this is - acknowledged to be, can have no merits in your estimation?" To which the - connoisseur replied-"Sir, a work so masterly in execution-so striking in - effect-so perfect in <i>all</i> its parts, cannot be truly estimated but - as a <i>whole</i>." Here, then, the <i>picture</i> is the <i>Petersham</i>-the - <i>selection</i> of beauties therein, the <i>difficulty</i>: To get rid of - which, be it sufficient to state, that the prominent feature in this Hat - is elegance of <i>style</i>, strongly visible in all its parts, and each - part in unison with the whole; which for <i>tonish</i> and exquisite <i>dash</i> - has no competitor. It will be seen, from what is here stated, that, much - as this Hat is capable of transfusing its <i>graces</i> to the wearer (and - who can doubt it), some <i>little</i> attention to <i>personal</i> - requisites is necessary-which, in stature, should be over five feet seven, - and not too lusty; countenance or complexion is of little consequence; but - the visage should be oval, such corresponding uncommonly well with the - fine <i>arched</i> brim, which forms nearly two-fifths of a circle; and, - when tastefully placed on the head, with a slight inclination over the - face, so as to bring the <i>fore</i> point on a line with the <i>tip</i> - of the nose, such will be the result, that, whatever difficulty may attend - a just description of its astonishing effects, the advantages to a wearer - will most assuredly be <span class="fss">FELT</span>. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE TILBURY. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">This</span> Hat is bold in appearance, but full of <i>character</i>: - Indeed, there is so much of the <i>whip</i> in its general outline, that - it can never, with propriety, be worn but as a <i>driving</i> Hat. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE BANG-UP. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">What</span> a pleasing reflection it is, all things - considered, that near as the human <i>form</i> may approach to perfection, - still that form is capable of being <i>improved</i> by ingenuity; but - then, the difficulty is to decide on what really <i>are improvements</i>: - for instance, some will admire a fine slope in the coat <i>skirts</i>, - tapering off like the tail of a goose; some (whether or no to catch the - manners of a <i>hoyden</i>) will put on the <i>frock</i>; others, again, - admire the <i>pantaloon</i>; and many give a decided preference to <i>inexpressibles</i>. - But the <i>Bang-up</i>, as a Hat, is the very master-piece of inventive - taste, wherein all admiration must of necessity <i>centre</i>, having not - only in its general appearance a bold and manly <i>front</i>, but a - pleasing harmony of parts, all tending to produce an agreeable union of <i>taste</i> - and <i>utility</i>; who then would mount the "<i>box</i>" without being - decorated with its chiefest ornament? - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE CLERICUS. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - A very <span class="sc">contemplative, sedate, pious-looking Hat</span>, - much worn by Police-Officers, Quack-Doctors, and Clergymen; this, it may - be said, is a strange assemblage of <i>characters</i> to bring under <i>one - head</i>, and some may hold the <i>association</i> to be a reflection on - the <i>latter</i>, when in truth the very <i>opposite</i> is intended; in - proof of which it is only necessary to observe that, where the attainment - of an object depends on <i>outward show</i>, such contrivances will be - resorted to as are best calculated to secure the object in view; and the - very <i>assumption</i> of the habit here spoken of by the "traps" and - "quacks" of the day, is evidence of the habit itself being in the <i>highest - possible estimation</i>. If taken in an <i>ornamental</i> point of view, - it would be no easy task to decide on its merits; but if <i>usefully</i> - considered, the conclusion is plain and easy. It is an admitted fact, that - an idea of dignity cannot embody itself with <i>little things</i>, hence - the custom of wearing <i>large wigs</i>, for such doubtless these Hats - were originally intended, and for this reason, the hinder part being drawn - up with loops in two places, no peruke, however large its dimensions, can - receive the least injury; in short, it may be worn under this Hat with as - little discomfiture to the <i>intricate friz</i> as though it were - absolutely on the very block itself: here then is produced what may be - termed a happy union of wisdom and piety, inasmuch as it is allowed, when - speaking of high legal characters, that the <i>wisdom</i> is in the <i>wig</i>, - and by the same rule (when Clericus is worn by a Divine) the <i>piety</i> - must be in the <i>Hat</i>. The style of putting on will greatly depend on - the size of the <i>peruke</i>, without which it should never be worn, - particularly if the hair be <i>lank and black</i>. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE BON-TON. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">In</span> point of form and fine proportions, this Hat - cannot fail to rank high in general estimation. Its appearance very much - resembles the Wellington, or rather it is between the Wellington and the - Marquis; and, like the latter, there is that becoming <i>style</i>, which - not only <i>harmonizes</i>, but gives a <i>peculiar grace</i> to the - majority of its wearers. - </p> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE BARONET. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">This</span> is a Hat highly respectable in appearance, - and well suited to gentlemen in the <i>decline</i> of life; but as that is - a state to which few will acknowledge while there is a capability of <i>hobbling - without a crutch</i>, something definite had better be stated by giving - the precise age;-take it then at <i>fifty</i>, which will put all doubts - at rest. The reason for fixing on the Baronet, as suitable to those in - declining years, is its grave, reflecting, methodical cast, such as would - seem to say of the <i>wearer</i>-"Here is one that possesses a serenity of - mind, an easy indifference of disposition, a tranquillity of thought, - which would quietly disentangle itself from the vain, shadowy, fleeting - desires of this life, and leave no regret behind." There are many other - recommendatory properties in this Hat, but those already particularized - are the most valuable; yes, <i>valuable</i>,-for it is a well-known fact, - that mankind are often made up of contrivance, that is, they frequently - give to <i>appearance</i> the shape of <i>reality</i>;-and however strange - the doctrine may at first appear, it is nevertheless true, that the custom - is often attended with very <i>beneficial results</i>, inasmuch as by <i>endeavouring</i> - to maintain an <i>apparent</i> consistency between <i>habit</i> and <i>action</i>, - the <i>propriety</i> of doing right becomes so strongly impressed on the - mind, that the villainy of a bad practice is seen in its <i>worst - deformity</i>, and conscience, the unerring monitor of the mind, rides - triumphant over all. These are recommendations of no ordinary nature, and - such that will no doubt cause much inquiry after the <i>Baronet</i>. As to - growth or countenance, there is an old saying, that "beggars should not be - choosers;" and the wearer, if he becomes so from <i>necessity</i>, will - feel the propriety of leaving choice out of the question. - </p> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c000" /> - </div> - <div class="figcenter id002"> - <img src="images/i017.jpg" alt="" class="ig001" /> - <div class="ic001"> - <p> - <i>Engraved for</i> <b>Lloyd's</b> <i>treatise on Hats.</i><br /><br /><i>John - Bull. The Cobourg. The Baron. Clericus. The New Dash. The Shallow.<br /><br />The - Cumberland. The Viz-a-viz. The Eccentric. The Wellington. A Noble - Lord. The Tandem.<br /><br />The Marquis. The Tally-ho. The Bang-up. - Baronet. The Paris Beau. The Bon Ton.<br /><br />A bit of Blood. The - Jolliffe. The Dandy. The Regent. The Irresistible. The Petersham.<br /><br />Designed - by R. Lloyd, Hat Maker, No. 92, Newgate-Street.</i> - </p> - </div> - </div> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c007" /> - </div> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c014"> - THE JOLLIFFE. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - A mind which is struck, through the medium of sight, with impressions of - sublimity, will have those impressions strengthened in proportion as the - <i>magnitude</i> of the object viewed is the greater, and as all things - are but great or small <i>comparatively</i>, it follows, of course, that - bodies of the same class, description, or affinity, which are <i>less</i> - than the <i>largest</i>, must suffer, when brought into the scale of - comparison with their superiors: agreeably to these rules, the <span - class="sc">Jolliffe</span>, whose dimensions exceed all others, comes - forward with strong claims to patronage, for besides the importance with - which it never fails to strike every beholder, it is sure to convey a - corresponding importance to the <span class="fss">WEARER</span>. Here then - are considerations which should not be trifled with, particularly as the - <i>assumption</i> of a thing is often taken for the thing itself-nay, are - there not situations in life where <i>appearances</i> become so vitally - important that it would be little short of criminality not to <i>put them - on</i>? and where the attainment of great ends may be insured by nothing - more than a simple attention to the <i>formation</i> of a <i>Hat</i>, it - would be worse than folly to neglect the means. Rightly taken, what a - multiplicity of persons might be benefitted by the above <i>hints</i>; - Princes, Peers, and Plenipotentiaries; Senators, State-ministers, or - Trading Politicians;-all-all may find their interest in the adoption of - the Jolliffe; and that these great personages may not plead ignorance as - to the manner in which it should be worn with the best effect, here follow - the proper instructions. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - If a <span class="sc">Prince</span>, let it be <i>lightly</i> placed on - the head, and a little <i>aside</i>, which <i>bespeaks a sort of cheerful - approving</i> confidence in one's own actions.-If a <span class="sc">Peer</span>, - it should be worn in a firm horizontal position, just covering half the - forehead; which gives the appearance of a wise and steady determination - where great questions are agitated, particularly when they become <i>self</i> - interesting.-If an <span class="sc">Ambassador</span>, it may be thrown a - <i>little back</i>, inclining somewhat aside; such position indicating a - bold and careless indifference to all around, which will be taken for - granted that such could not arise from any other cause than a total - disregard for the <i>result</i> of his mission; a practice, although not - often hit on, may have many advantages. As to the three <i>latter</i> - characters, their pursuits having all the same end-<span class="fss">POPULARITY</span>-let - them consult the style of the Prince, and remember that, in whomsoever - confidence has credit, popularity is sure to follow. - </p> - <hr class="c015" /> - <p class="c011"> - <span class="large">?</span> As the Jolliffe is not likely to be worn - unless for <i>special purposes</i>, to give an idea who would best become - it is unnecessary. - </p> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c000" /> - </div> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c008"> - THE FOUR-IN-HAND. - </h2> - </div> - <div class="lg-container-b c016"> - <div class="linegroup"> - <div class="group"> - <div class="line in4"> - A modern-styled <i>whip</i>, - </div> - <div class="line in4"> - Howe'er he may dip - </div> - <div class="line"> - Into fashion's wide vortex his <i>pinions</i>, - </div> - <div class="line in4"> - To make a bold stand, - </div> - <div class="line in4"> - <span class="sc">Lloyd's</span> prime <i>Four-in-Hand</i> - </div> - <div class="line"> - Must cover his <i>upper dominions</i>. - </div> - </div> - <div class="group"> - <div class="line in4"> - For ease, form, and <i>set</i>, - </div> - <div class="line in4"> - The like never yet - </div> - <div class="line"> - Was seen, at least so run opinions; - </div> - <div class="line in4"> - Then ye four-in-hand whips, - </div> - <div class="line in4"> - In your <i>jarvey</i>-like trips - </div> - <div class="line"> - Take care of your <i>upper dominions</i>. - </div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <div class="nf-center-c0"> - <div class="nf-center c000"> - <div> - <i>DIMENSIONS</i>. - </div> - </div> - </div> - <div class="lg-container-b c017"> - <div class="linegroup"> - <div class="group"> - <div class="line in4"> - It measures, by rule, - </div> - <div class="line in4"> - Near three inches full - </div> - <div class="line"> - In the brim, with a crown wide at top; - </div> - <div class="line in4"> - Nor is there a <i>face</i> - </div> - <div class="line in4"> - But what it will <i>grace</i>, - </div> - <div class="line"> - If purchased at <span class="sc">Lloyd's</span> <i>fancy shop</i>. - </div> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c007" /> - </div> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c008"> - A BIT OF BLOOD. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - The term itself naturally implies a something upon a <i>small</i> scale, - which is the fact, and although there is nothing of that imposing dignity - of style in the above Hat, which characterizes the <i>Regent</i>, the <i>Petersham</i>, - &c. there is a <i>lively</i>, <i>animated</i>, and <i>vigorous</i> - fire in all its features, that will not allow of any falling off in the - general comparison. To give a complete catalogue of the many <span - class="fss">VIRTUES</span> belonging to <i>a bit of blood</i>, would - exceed the allotted limits; but it cannot be amiss to detail a few of the - more <i>prominent</i>, that all, whose necessities may bear to the point, - should be <i>benefitted</i> by the <i>wearing</i>: First then, it is - admirably calculated for those who are about to ask <i>favors</i>, such - being more readily <i>granted</i> when they seem the <i>less wanted</i>, - and no one could suppose that the <i>saucy</i> animation which would be so - strongly visible under this Hat could make the application from <span - class="fss">NECESSITY</span>. Secondly, it will be of singular advantage - to <i>elderly gentlemen</i> in pursuit of <i>young wives</i>, who nine - times in ten decide on the choice of a man from the <i>cock</i>-of his - Hat. Thirdly, (not that there is much need of it for such a purpose - now-a-days) its advantages for those that are tormented with <i>dunns</i> - are incalculable, for, by being placed pretty firm on the head, inclining - rather to one side, at the same time assuming a sharp <i>erect</i> - position of the body, a stern direction of the eye, and arms <i>a-kimbo</i>, - the devil himself, in the shape of a <i>creditor</i>, would hardly hazard - the <span class="fss">REPETITION OF A VISIT</span>. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - <span class="small"><i>N. B.</i> No service to gentlemen of the <i>learned</i> - profession.</span> - </p> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c000" /> - </div> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c008"> - <span class="xsmall">THE</span> <br /> <br /> <span class="xlarge"><i>PROCESS</i></span> - <br /> <br /> <span class="small">OF</span> <br /> <br /> <span - class="xxlarge">HAT-MAKING</span> <br /> <br /> EXPLAINED, <br /> <br /> - WITH PREFATORY REMARKS, &c. &c. - </h2> - </div> - <hr class="c009" /> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">Turks</span> are said to assign as a reason for not - wearing Hats, that they are put together by <i>witchcraft</i>. There is - certainly a great deal of ingenuity in the practice, and some <i>effects</i> - produced whose <i>causes</i> are as yet unexplained: but, with all due - deference to these <i>turban gentlemen</i>, it is presumed that they have - objections beyond what is above stated, some of which are as follows:-<i>First</i>, - their country is destitute of the most essential material-<span class="fss">FUR</span>. - <i>Second</i>, the climate being extremely sultry, stoves, irons, and - scalding water are not likely to become favourites. <i>Thirdly</i>, being - compelled by their religion to keep their heads <i>close shaved</i>, a - Hat, above all human inventions, would be the most ridiculous covering <i>they</i> - could adopt. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - There are many opinions as to the time Hats were first invented, and, very - probably, all equally erroneous. Some carry the date as far back as the - foundation of Christianity, attributing the merit to St. Luke, of whom it - is said, that he, having tender feet, put a layer of hair or fur between - them and his sandals, in which situation friction and moisture caused such - an interweaving of particles, that the whole became strongly united, or - (technically called) <span class="fss">FELTED</span>. Whether the story, - as applied to Luke, be true or false, is immaterial; but that such did - happen with some one, is very likely; nor is it at all unlikely, but that - an occurrence of this kind did really give the first idea of Hat-making. - Having remarked thus much, I shall next proceed to state, what is not the - less true than surprising, which is, that of the various branches of - manufacture which this country is so highly distinguished for, none are - less understood than Hat-making; nay, there is not one person in fifty - who, if he were asked the question, could tell whether a Hat was or was - not a <i>woven</i> substance; nor is there one in 500 but what suppose - that the <i>skin</i> of a hare or rabbit is worked with the fur <i>attached</i> - to it, as in the natural state; and, to form a correct judgment of the - external material, when manufactured, whether it be hair, wool, or beaver, - although many pretend, none are really competent but those <i>experienced</i> - in the <i>trade</i>. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - To show the absurd notions some entertain on this matter, I state as a - fact, that I do not know a manufacturer or seller in the trade but what - has been applied to, by some one or other, to have a <i>Beaver</i> Hat - made from a <i>hare</i>'s skin. Nay, I remember once offending a very good - customer, and a man not wanting for sense either, by an involuntary burst - of laughter, on his presenting the skin of a <i>French lap-dog</i> for the - very same purpose. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - It is no uncommon thing for persons who are on pretty good terms with - their capabilities to give opinions as to the <i>merits</i> or <i>demerits</i> - of a Hat; which opinions are as opposite to the true state of the case as - the sun's rays to a state of darkness. I shall give an instance, although - a trifling one, of a very common error among persons who <i>suppose</i> - themselves to have a knowledge of the subject, which is this, if the - picker has not a very good eye, some of the larger hairs will be left in - the Hat, and consequently the most <i>visible</i>; these are directly - termed "<i>grey hairs</i>," when the truth is, that they are the <i>blackest</i> - in the whole composition; but being thicker than the general mass, they - receive a greater portion of <i>light</i>, which is mistaken for a grey - colour: an easy method of proving the fact is to pull one of these <i>grey - hairs</i> from the Hat, and place it on a piece of white paper, the <i>contrast</i> - will decide the question. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - Again, whatever produces a glutinization of the <span class="fss">NAP</span>, - is said to be the effect of the stiffening; this is not true in every - case, for it is frequently owing to improper management in placing the - Hat, when wet, before a large fire, which should never be done; the better - way is, if very wet, to hang it up without brushing or wiping, and when - dry it is easily put to rights, by gently passing over a clothes brush: if - only slightly wet, wipe it with a handkerchief, and, when dry, it will - brush clean. But the great fault with most persons is to put on their - Hats, day after day, in the same <i>dirty state</i> as when taken off at - night; from which it is natural to infer, that there must be a vast - accumulation of dirt; it is this dirt, when exposed to the rain, that - forms a sort of cement, or paste, having all the appearance of what is - commonly called "<i>gum</i>." - </p> - <p class="c011"> - Another proof of erroneous judgment-Profuse perspiration of the head is - what many are subject to; by reason of which, from the frequency of - wearing, and the <i>porosity</i> of the Hat, there is a continual - absorption of moisture going on until it becomes completely <i>saturated</i>, - particularly in front, the consequence is, that the nap lies buried in a - greasy matter, which matter is also, but very inappropriately termed <i>gum</i> - or <i>stiffening</i>, when in point of fact it is <i>neither</i>, for the - very same effect would, under the like circumstances, be produced, and in - much less time, if the Hat were not stiffened at all. The best remedy for - this is a piece of thin flannel under the leather, and that frequently - changed. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - There is nothing so detrimental to a Hat as a severe exposure to rain on - the first, second, or even third time of wearing; for this reason, the - materials wherewith it is composed are in a manner quite <i>green</i>, and - require <i>seasoning</i>; to effect which it should be frequently put on - in dry weather. I have always found that a Hat, constantly worn for five - or six weeks <i>without being wet</i>, underwent every sort of hardship - afterwards with little or no injury, retaining at the same time its - beauty-form-and wearing <i>three times longer</i> than it otherwise would - have done. It may be asked, why not, to prevent accidents, render the Hat - <i>water-proof</i>? that is, impervious to the action of either atmosphere - or rain. The thing is easy enough, I admit; but where there is a choice of - only <i>two evils</i>, it is always best to select the <i>least</i>. We - all know (or should know) that if a man were to enclose himself, arms, - legs, and body, in what is called an <i>oil-skin dress</i>, and that drawn - close round the neck, the whole tightly fitted to every part of his person - as a Hat is to the head, the most unpleasant consequences would ensue; the - cause why is obviously this, the exhalations of the body, particularly in - a state of exertion, would when so <i>enclosed</i>, be either prevented - from flying off, as nature requires, or otherwise checked altogether; - precisely so with the head if the porosity of the Hat was destroyed, which - it must be to resist effectually the action of water. This deduction must - be so clear and self-evident that further reasoning is unnecessary. - Another great objection against water-proof <i>Hats</i> is, that the - ingredients made use of for such purposes, when exposed to the sun's heat, - are so acted upon as to cause a <i>decomposition</i> of the colour, and - nine times in ten, the Hat, before it is half worn out, becomes any thing - but what it was meant to be. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - It is astonishing to hear the number of qualifications a Hat is <i>said</i> - to have, and each as opposite to the other as it is possible for any two - things to be; some, for instance, maintain that it cannot be good unless - it is <i>light</i>, others again will decidedly condemn it for <i>being so</i>, - insisting that the chief recommendation is its being firm and <i>stout</i>. - All that is requisite to be observed on this, is that <i>weight</i> has no - more to do with the <i>quality</i> of a Hat, than the situation of prime - minister has to do with the cramming of turkies. A very inferior Hat may - be made <i>equally light</i> with the most superior, and in both cases the - cost of manufacture will be less than if they were made <i>stout</i>. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - The length of the beaver too is another point on which the difference of - opinion is often experienced; many are for very <i>short naps</i>, - declaring all others to be outrageously vulgar; but the majority of - wearers seem best pleased with <i>long</i> naps, which always <i>take</i> - and <i>retain</i> the best <i>black</i>, while, on the contrary those that - are very short never do. A medium between the two is the most preferable. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - Having stated thus much, I shall next proceed to explain in what way a - fine Hat is <i>made</i>, describing as accurately as possible the various - processes it undergoes, as also the materials with which it is composed, - the proportions of each as well as the quantity of work a man is capable - of doing, whether <i>maker</i> or <i>finisher</i>, in a week, the amount - of wages, together with some of the curious regulations, by-laws, &c. - &c. &c. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - In the first place, as I shall have occasion to mention a few of the <i>implements</i> - by name, a short description of them may not be amiss. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - There is the <span class="fss">BOW</span>, which in form is not unlike - what is used for playing on a <i>double bass</i>, but in length and - thickness is equal to a constable's staff; there is a bridge at each end, - from one to the other of which is tightly strung a stout line of <i>catgut</i>. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - The <span class="fss">HURDLE</span> is situate in what is called the bow - garret, and is a sort of <i>table</i>, on which the <i>fur</i> is bowed, - or mixed, having the farther end and sides enclosed to prevent the - material from being blown away. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - The <span class="fss">BATTERY</span> is somewhat like the hopper of a - mill, in this is contained the hot <i>liquor</i>, and is mostly - constructed for eight men, <i>round</i> which they stand when <i>making</i>; - the lower part is lead, the upper or working part mahogany. All batteries - are formed into divisions called <span class="fss">PLANKS</span>, one of - which is allotted to each man. There are many other little things used by - makers, but these three are all that deserve particular notice. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - The first thing a maker looks for in the morning is the <span class="fss">FUR</span>, - or raw material, which is furnished to him by <i>weight</i>; the quantity - being more or less, according to the substance of the Hat required, and is - in <i>two</i> parcels, one of which contains the <span class="fss">BEAVER</span>, - or napping; the other the <span class="fss">BODY</span> (a proportionate - scale of both will be seen hereafter). Thus provided he takes it to the - <span class="fss">BOW GARRET</span>; the materials for the body are first - placed on the hurdle, and the bow being hung at the centre for support, is - held in the left hand horizontally, so that the catgut may come in contact - with the fur; in the <i>right</i> hand is placed a small piece of stick, - with a <i>nut</i> at the end, and in this position the work begins after - the following manner. The <i>catgut</i> of the bow (being first placed in - the midst of the <i>fur</i>) is pulled or struck with the knotted stick, - which produces, from a quick repetition of the stroke, a continued <i>vibration</i>, - this <i>vibration</i> it is that causes a separation or <i>flitting</i> of - the fur, at the same time mixing and cleansing it. This operation is - continued until such ends are fully attained. It is next divided into <i>halves</i>, - one of which is laid aside, and the other again bowed over. In this second - operation the workman contrives, partly by bowing, and partly by a slight - <i>wicker frame</i>, to bring the material into an oblong form, and equal - in size to a large sheet of cartridge paper; this is called a <span - class="fss">BAT</span>, and when done it is gently <i>pressed down</i> by - the <i>wicker</i>, after which a damp linen cloth is laid all over, and on - this again is placed a thick piece of dry <span class="fss">HORSE HIDE</span>; - the workman now begins to press hard on the hide for about five minutes; - in the doing this the fur adheres close to the damp cloth, into which it - is <i>doubled up</i>, and once more undergoes the pressure of the hand. - Under this operation (which is called <span class="fss">BASONING</span>) - the <i>bat</i> becomes <i>consolidated</i>, and may be thrown, when taken - out of the cloth, from one end of the garret to the other without injury. - The second half is next bowed, formed into a <i>bat</i>, and <i>basoned</i> - as the first. This half <i>remains</i> on <i>the hurdle</i>, and a piece - of <i>paper</i>, somewhat conical, is placed on it, <i>over which</i>, and - agreeable to the shape, the sides of the bat are <i>doubled</i>. Here then - is formed one half of the <i>body</i>, this is laid aside, and the first - bat is then put flat on the hurdle <i>on which</i> the one previously - doubled is placed with its open part downwards; the lower bat being - transversely doubled over the top hat, forms a sort of conical, or - harlequin's cap; in this state it is once more put into the damp cloth, - where it receives another hardening for the purpose of uniting or <i>knitting</i> - both <i>bats</i> together; after this it is folded into the compass of <i>two - hands</i>, ready for the <i>plank</i>. The next thing is the <i>beaver</i>, - or covering, which is bowed in <i>form</i> to correspond with the <i>body</i>, - but has nothing to do with it in this stage. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - Matters being completed thus far, this is called the <i>first process of - Hat-making</i>. The second commences as follows:-The workman having gone - from the bow garret to the making shop, takes his stand at the battery, - under which is a <span class="fss">FIRE</span>, for the purpose of heating - the liquor;<a id="r1"></a><a href="#f1" class="c018"><sup>[1]</sup></a> - into this hot liquor the <i>body</i> is quickly <i>immersed</i>, where it - remains till soaked through; it is afterwards laid on the <i>plank</i> to - <i>drain</i> and <i>cool</i>; this done, it is unfolded, gently rolled, - turned at short intervals in every direction, to prevent the sides uniting - together; and as the <i>liquor</i> becomes <i>cold</i> and rolled out, it - is continually supplied with <i>hot</i> and fresh, by the sprinkling of a - <i>brush</i>, which is dipped in the <i>kettle</i> for that purpose; under - this operation, assisted by the astringency of the <i>vitriol</i>, the - body <i>shrinks</i>, and begins to assume a tough <i>substance</i>. When - it has shrunk to a <i>certain size</i> (say three-fifths, if to be <i>double</i> - covered), it is laid flat on the <i>plank</i>, and the <i>first</i> coat - of <i>beaver</i>, as it comes from the <i>bow</i>, is laid quite over it; - the <i>brush</i> is now dipped into the hot liquor, the contents of which - is sprinkled all over the <i>beaver</i>, directly afterwards it is gently - <i>patted down</i> with the hot brush; here the body is put into a <i>hair-cloth</i>, - rolled in hot liquor, turned inside out, rolled again until the <i>beaver</i>, - is completely worked into the body; when this is effected, it is in a fit - state to receive the <i>second</i> covering, which is put on as the first, - the <i>working</i>, <i>turning</i>, <i>patting</i>, and <i>rolling</i> - still continuing until it is reduced to a fit dimension, the <i>beaver</i> - quite <i>clean</i>, and all together assuming a closely <i>felted</i>, - fine, solid piece of workmanship; after which it is immediately <i>blocked</i> - in this same liquor, to the size wanted, and put into a <i>stove</i> to - dry, from whence it is taken, and with a small fine card the beaver is - gently raised; without this, one half would lie buried, and the beauty - lost.-Here then is the complete <span class="fss">PROCESS OF HAT-MAKING</span>. - </p> - <div class="footnote c019" id="f1"> - <p class="c020"> - <span class="label"><a href="#r1">1</a>. </span>The liquor, - which is always kept up to <i>scalding</i> heat, is nothing more than - clean soft water, with a wine glass of <i>vitriol</i>, and a small - quantity of beer dregs thrown in. The first is to <i>shrink</i> the body - of the Hat in working; the other to destroy the <i>pernicious</i> effect - of the vitriol. - </p> - </div> - <p class="c011"> - It is next sent to the <span class="fss">DYER</span> from whom it passes - to the <span class="fss">FINISHER</span>, who, after stiffening, blocking, - and <i>half</i> finishing, sends it to be picked, which is performed by a - woman, whose place it is to pull out the <i>kemps</i> or thick hairs, - without injuring the beaver,<a id="r2"></a><a href="#f2" class="c018"><sup>[2]</sup></a> - although that is not always accomplished. From the <i>picker</i> it - returns to the finisher who, by the <span class="fss">IRON</span> and - velvet cushion, gives it those highly brilliant and admired beauties that - an English Hat is so pre-eminently distinguished for. The shaper next - takes it in hand, who is guided in his operations by the <i>fancy</i> of - the wearer, if bespoke, which is sometimes a little <i>whimsical</i>. - After shaping, it goes to the <i>trimmer</i>, from whom it is returned to - the <span class="fss">TIPPER OFF</span>; he gets it ready for wearing; it - is then sent to its destination, when the master, if he is <i>fortunate</i>, - puts the amount into his pocket.<a id="r3"></a><a href="#f3" class="c018"><sup>[3]</sup></a> - </p> - <div class="footnote c019" id="f2"> - <p class="c020"> - <span class="label"><a href="#r2">2</a>. </span>It has - frequently been asked, why not make a Hat with <i>beaver only</i>, the - answer is, there is not sufficient <i>stamina</i> or strength in it to - become a sound <i>felted</i> substance. It would be worse than building - a <i>brick</i> house without <i>mortar</i> or some sort of cement, to - bind the whole together. - </p> - </div> - <div class="footnote c019" id="f3"> - <p class="c020"> - <span class="label"><a href="#r3">3</a>. </span>Some have - payment <i>before</i>-hand, which brings out the following old, but very - foolish saying, "there are but <i>two</i> bad paymasters, <i>he</i> who - pays beforehand, and <i>he</i> who <i>never</i> pays." How the latter - can be a <i>paymaster</i> requires some little ingenuity to determine. - </p> - </div> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c000" /> - </div> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c008"> - <span class="small">THE</span> <br /> <br /> LAWS AND CUSTOMS <br /> <br /> - <span class="small">OF</span> <br /> <br /> JOURNEYMEN HATTERS. - </h2> - </div> - <div class="figcenter id003"> - <img src="images/decoration.jpg" alt="" class="ig001" /> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">To</span> enter <i>fully</i> into the various regulations - and forms that the "<i>trade</i>" have, from time to time, instituted and - acted upon, would of itself fill a volume; all that can be done then in - this small work will be to give the best possible outline of such matters - as are most likely to interest those who may wish for information on the - subject. The most important laws of this trade are these:- - </p> - <p class="c011"> - <i>First</i>-No man shall work as a <i>maker</i> or <i>finisher</i>, - unless he has served an apprenticeship of seven years to what is called a - "<i>fair master</i>." - </p> - <p class="c011"> - <i>Second</i>-To be a fair master, and entitled, according to the rules of - the trade, to take an apprentice, he must have manufactured his <i>own - Hats</i>, seven years prior to the <i>taking</i>, or otherwise have served - a fair seven years' apprenticeship himself to the trade. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - <i>Third</i>-Whether there be one, two, or more in a manufacturing firm, - that firm are not to have more than two apprentices at one time. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - <i>Fourth</i>-There are a number of masters who do not manufacture their - own "<i>stuff</i>," but are employed by "<i>Great Houses</i>," who, - although they have a right, by law, to take apprentices, yet those - apprentices, by reason of their masters not working their <i>own materials</i>, - are never admitted to stand by the side of <i>fair men</i>, on which - account they must ever continue <i>foul</i>, and debarred of the usual - privileges, or submit to a <i>second</i> apprenticeship. This is a case - that frequently occurs; indeed it is no uncommon thing to see a man with a - wife and half a dozen children, himself near thirty years old, serving a - second apprenticeship for a fair time; the hardship of this must be - admitted, inasmuch as it is punishing a man for a fault he never - committed. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - <i>Fifth</i>-A <i>foul man</i> is one that has not served his - apprenticeship agreeably to the rule of the trade, or has been guilty of - some act detrimental to the <i>supposed</i> interests of the journeymen in - general. These are called "<span class="fss">KNOBSTICKS</span>." - </p> - <p class="c011"> - <i>Sixth</i>-A fair man has the privilege of what is called "<i>turns upon - tramp</i>," that is, if he cannot obtain work in the town where he - resides, or has an inclination to <i>travel</i>, he may journey or <i>tramp</i> - to the next; should any of the <i>fraternity</i> be there, and he wishes - to get "<i>shopped</i>" he is "<i>asked for</i>" by one in that factory, - (no man being allowed to ask for himself), if unsuccessful, there are two - night's lodging for him, two pots of strong beer, bread and cheese, and a - shilling or two to forward him to the next town. The <i>money turn</i> in - London is five shillings, but no man is entitled to a <i>second</i> turn - in one place, until after the expiration of six months from his receiving - the first. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - <i>Seventh</i>-If a journeyman has, by his own act, become <i>foul</i>, - nothing can absolve him but submitting to a <i>fine</i>, and this is - measured according to the offence, which, in some <i>heinous</i> cases, - such as "<i>creeping</i>" into favour with the master, or going to work - when all the rest have struck for wages, is as high as ten guineas. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - There are three distinct courts for the examination and punishment of - offenders. The <i>first</i>, or High Court of <span class="sc">Congress</span>, - is a sort of general assembly, composed of either Makers or Finishers, - just as their separate interests may be concerned; but on all joint - questions these parties form a <i>junction</i>. In this court matters of - importance only are discussed; as, for instance, the <i>advance of prices</i>, - the abrogation of old laws, and the making of new ones, under the <i>operation</i> - of which, it sometimes happens that both men and masters, as well as the - law of the land, are alike the victims. The <i>fines</i> levied in this - court are appropriated to special and "<span class="fss">STRIKING</span>" - purposes, often tending to produce a "<span class="fss">COMBINATION</span>" - of interesting effects. The masters too are not wholly exempt from these - pretty little combinations, which, however, do not always realize or carry - their intended <i>point</i>; this is owing (it is thought) to the vast - affection journeymen bear towards their employers; indeed so much so, that - they cannot bear the <i>latter</i> should "<span class="fss">LOWER</span>" - themselves. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - There is a court below this, which is formed by taking one or two men from - the seven <i>nearest</i> shops. Their sitting, if not <i>public</i>, is - sure to be in a <i>public-house</i>, president, <i>Sir John Barleycorn</i>. - The matters chiefly brought here are those that relate to the misconduct - of journeymen towards each other in the same factory, and which cannot be - settled where they originated. This is called "<span class="fss">DOZENING</span>," - and their power of <span class="fss">FINE</span> extends to two guineas, - which is drank in good old stout by the whole seven shops; but as all <i>dry</i> - subjects are prohibited in this tribune, the extent of fine greatly - depends on the state of the weather; so that if it be a sultry summer's - day, the punishment of an offender is in proportion to the <i>sun's heat</i>. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - The third and lowest <i>court</i> is an assembly of shop-mates only, this - meeting is called a "<span class="fss">GARRET MATCH</span>," and may be - demanded for the punishment of an aggressor, by any aggrieved man in a - factory. Power of fine from two to ten shillings. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - I have before stated that there are in this trade <i>foul</i> men; in - point of number they constitute about one-sixth part of the whole; but - their earnings, or price of labour is the same as the fair trade. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - A journeyman finisher in full work will earn, on an average, from three to - four pounds a-week; while, on the contrary, a maker cannot get more than - <i>fifty shillings</i>. This is a subject of much jealousy and discontent; - nor is it likely to be otherwise, unless the latter can raise himself to - an equality with the former; against this there are many obstacles, one of - which is, the <i>increasing</i> foul trade, who would continue working, - even though the fair men had "<i>struck</i>." Another is, that they could - never obtain the co-operation of the finishers, who, being amply paid - themselves, think it best to leave well alone. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - These are the <i>principal regulations</i> which govern journeymen - hatters, whether they have a good or a bad tendency is questionable; there - are many in the <i>trade</i> who decidedly condemn them, giving as their - reasons, that they encourage idleness, tippling, and endless squabbles. <i>Idleness</i>-inasmuch - as when men are summoned to discuss the most trifling matters, even though - the meeting be at five o'clock in the morning, they seldom feel <i>disposed</i> - to return to their work that day. <i>Tippling</i>-for the reason that, as - <i>fines</i> are mostly spent in <i>drink</i>, the conviction of a - supposed offender is generally <i>thirsted</i> after; but as the quantum - levied seldom suffices, all further supplies for the remainder of the day - are met by individual subscription. In these cases there is no show of - niggardliness, as every succeeding gallon of the "<i>sparkling entire</i>," - is but an <i>internal</i> messenger, bearing the glad tidings of another - to come. <i>Squabbles</i>, because it is natural, when the <i>desire</i> - for a thing is once created, and the gratification of that desire (where - nothing of criminality attaches) can be indulged, by having recourse to a - little contrivance, that the opportunity of so doing should be more - frequently <i>made</i>, than suffered to approach accidentally; which will - account for the <i>trifling magnitudes</i> that are allowed to agitate - shops and factories in general. The arguments in <i>favour</i> of these - laws are, that without them, apprentices would be careless in serving out - their <i>time</i>, the trade over-run with bad workmen, hats greatly - deteriorated in the manufacture, the excellence of which is their chief - recommendation in a foreign market, and the surest guarantee of the - master's profits at home. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - Having given the <i>contending</i> opinions, in reference to the laws of - this trade, I shall say a word or two concerning the shape, and manner of - placing a hat on the head. - </p> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c000" /> - </div> - <div class="chapter"> - <h2 class="c008"> - <span class="small">ON THE</span> <br /> <br /> <span class="xxlarge">SHAPE - AND STYLE</span> <br /> <br /> <span class="small">OF</span> <br /> <br /> - <span class="xxlarge">WEARING A HAT</span>. - </h2> - </div> - <p class="c013"> - <span class="sc">There</span> is no part of a man's dress that <i>makes</i> - or <i>mars</i> his appearance so much as his hat; not that it is its - striking beauty when new, or a want of it when old, that is most - materially concerned in producing either of the above effects; the grand - point is the <span class="sc">form</span>, and the position which it is - made to assume on the head; yet how few there are who give the least - attention to either, except indeed military men, and they in general are - uncommonly tasty, affording the best example of the precise style in which - a hat should be worn. It is no less singular than true, that the same hat, - by being placed on the head in different positions, will give, in <i>appearance</i>, - as many distinct <i>characters</i> to the <i>same person</i> as the number - of those positions amount to. The most striking are as follows:-<i>sullenness</i>-<i>indolence</i>-<i>gravity</i>, - and <i>good humoured impudence</i>. To give the first, draw the brim of - the hat so far over the eyes that they shall be quite concealed. The - second is produced by the hat being thrown quite back. The third by a prim - <i>horizontal</i> set, covering equally all parts of the head; and the - fourth will not be easily mistaken wherever an <i>extravagant cock</i> on - either side is brought full into view. These are undoubtedly all <i>extreme</i> - habits, and seldom pushed to the extent here described; yet a slight - inclination to either position may, under circumstances, have a very good - effect. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - There is another bad custom that ought to be noticed, which I shall do by - first observing, that a hat was intended solely to keep the head <i>dry</i>-<span - class="fss">ON</span> which it should be worn; but many seem to differ - from this opinion, using it as a sort of <span class="fss">NIGHT-CAP</span> - wherein is thrust head, ears, and all. This is a most slovenly practice, - as well as a dangerous one, inasmuch as it tends to keep the head in a - continual and <i>forced</i> state of perspiration, rendering a liability - to "<i>take cold</i>," every time the hat is removed. Yet even this habit - is not so bad as sticking the hat on the <i>back</i> of the head, which, - of all others, is the most general, and carries with it the greatest - impropriety, because such a position not only destroys the shape, but by - lodging on the coat collar, the hind part, from <i>friction</i>, becomes - greasy, and the binding is always in a state of raggedness; added to these - disadvantages, a most ridiculous effect is produced by the practice, that - is, the head in <i>appearance</i> is converted into a sort of <i>peg</i>, - <span class="fss">AGAINST</span> which the hat seems to <i>hang</i>, - instead of being placed <i>upon</i>. A man who indulges in so bad a - custom, should at least preserve a <i>consistency</i> in his dress by - walking "slip shoed," breeches knees open, and without braces, stockings - down, waistcoat unbuttoned, cravat half tied, one arm only in his coat - sleeve, and at least a six months' uncombed crop of hair about his - pericranium; here he would be of a piece; and grotesque as such a figure - must appear, by a general adoption of these "captivating negligencies," - there is no greater inconsistency in the whole catalogue than that of - wearing a hat on the <i>back part</i> of the head. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - As to the <i>form</i> of a hat, and what is best for <i>this face</i> or - <i>that person</i>, there is more in it than what is generally supposed, - and a great deal might be said on the subject; but to talk of a <i>standard - fashion</i> is absurd in the extreme, in proof of which it need only be - observed, that if very large hats were adopted, a thin man of five feet - high, would, by the wearing, become as complete a caricature, as a twenty - stone man of six feet would by wearing a very small one. The best fashion - a man can follow in a hat is that which best becomes him, and various as - heads, faces, and persons may be, all things are now accomplished (so far - as a hat is concerned) that can either <i>fit</i> the one or ornament the - other, - </p> - <p class="c021"> - By the Head's sincere friend, - </p> - <p class="c022"> - and well-wisher, - </p> - <p class="c023"> - R. L. - </p> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c007" /> - </div> - <p class="c024"> - <span class="large"><i>Furs used in a Hat of fine quality, according to - the present improved system of making, their proportions, value, cost of - manufacture, &c. &c.</i></span> - </p> - <div class="nf-center-c0"> - <div class="nf-center c005"> - <div> - FOR THE BODY. - </div> - </div> - </div> - <table class="table0" summary=""> - <colgroup> - <col width="62%" /> - <col width="9%" /> - <col width="12%" /> - <col width="15%" /> - </colgroup> - <tr> - <th class="c025"></th> - <th class="c026"> - s. d. - </th> - <th class="c027"> - per oz. - </th> - <th class="c028"> - s. d. - </th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - 4 oz. of seasoned coney wool, - </td> - <td class="c026"> - 1 0 - </td> - <td class="c027"> - .. - </td> - <td class="c028"> - 4 0 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - ½ oz. red wool - </td> - <td class="c026"> - 2 4 - </td> - <td class="c027"> - .. - </td> - <td class="c028"> - 1 2 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - ¼ oz. of silk - </td> - <td class="c026"> - 0 9 - </td> - <td class="c027"> - .. - </td> - <td class="c028"> - 0 4½ - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <div class="nf-center-c0"> - <div class="nf-center c000"> - <div> - FOR THE COVERING. - </div> - </div> - </div> - <table class="table0" summary=""> - <colgroup> - <col width="62%" /> - <col width="9%" /> - <col width="12%" /> - <col width="15%" /> - </colgroup> - <tr> - <th class="c025"></th> - <th class="c026"> - s. d. - </th> - <th class="c027"> - per oz. - </th> - <th class="c028"> - s. d. - </th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - 1 oz. of prime seasoned beaver - </td> - <td class="c026"> - 8 6<a id="r4"></a><a href="#f4" class="c018"><sup>[4]</sup></a> - </td> - <td class="c027"> - .. - </td> - <td class="c028"> - 8 6 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - Journeyman's wages for making<a id="r5"></a><a href="#f5" class="c018"><sup>[5]</sup></a> - </td> - <td class="c026"> - - </td> - <td class="c027"> - - </td> - <td class="c028"> - 3 6 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - Dyeing - </td> - <td class="c026"> - - </td> - <td class="c027"> - - </td> - <td class="c028"> - 0 8 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - Stiffening, finishing, and picking - </td> - <td class="c026"> - - </td> - <td class="c027"> - - </td> - <td class="c028"> - 1 8 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - Cost of lining, finding, band, and box - </td> - <td class="c026"> - - </td> - <td class="c027"> - - </td> - <td class="c028"> - 2 6 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - Sewing in of ditto - </td> - <td class="c026"> - - </td> - <td class="c027"> - - </td> - <td class="c028"> - 0 6 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - - </td> - <td class="c026"> - - </td> - <td class="c027"> - - </td> - <td class="c028"> - ----- - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c025"> - - </td> - <td class="c026"> - - </td> - <td class="c027"> - - </td> - <td class="c028"> - £1 2 10½ - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <div class="footnote c019" id="f4"> - <p class="c020"> - <span class="label"><a href="#r4">4</a>. </span>No hat can be - good, or well covered, with less than one ounce of prime beaver; and, - small as the quantity is, there was a time when journeymen makers - (catching the custom of their betters, and by way of tythe) thought it - no sin to appropriate a part of this material to their <i>own use</i>; - but, for the credit of the <i>trade</i> be it said, the practice is long - since abolished, and a man attempting it at the present day would be - scouted from the factory where he worked, by every honest journeyman - therein. - </p> - </div> - <div class="footnote c019" id="f5"> - <p class="c020"> - <span class="label"><a href="#r5">5</a>. </span>The average - week's work of a <i>maker</i> is about ten hats; that of a <i>finisher</i>, - from five to six dozen. - </p> - </div> - <p class="c011"> - Such is the cost of materials and labour at the present period; it is true - that the above scale is drawn from "credit prices;" but let every part of - a manufacturing concern be carried on for money only, which is rarely the - case, still the deduction from the <i>whole</i> cannot be more than 7½ per - cent. All substitutes for the above <i>materials</i> are decidedly - condemned; nor can their <i>quantities</i>, as here stated, be lessened, - without injury to the remainder. Here then is sufficient evidence that a - fine hat must, under the most favourable circumstances, stand the - manufacturer in upwards of twenty-one shillings, yet many <i>assume</i> a - capability of <i>retailing</i> such an article at less even than the - charge of manufacture. - </p> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c000" /> - </div> - <p class="c029"> - <i>A General List of</i> Lloyd's <i>Fashionable Hats, invented, - manufactured, and sold by him, at his Warehouse, 92, Newgate-Street, - London.</i> - </p> - <table class="table1" summary=""> - <colgroup> - <col width="36%" /> - <col width="63%" /> - </colgroup> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The John Bull - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Bang-up - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Wellington - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Jolliffe - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Tandem - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - Clericus - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Tally-Ho - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Bon-Ton - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Shallow - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Baronet - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Coburg - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Four-in-Hand - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Marquis - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - A Bit of Blood - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Eccentric - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Baron - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Regent - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - A Noble Lord - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Kent - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The New Dash - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Cumberland - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - A Paris Beau - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Esquire - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Brutus - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Vis-a-Vis - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Exquisite - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Petersham - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Irresistible - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Tilbury - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Pic Nic - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Count - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - The Viscount - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="c030"> - The Medium - </td> - <td class="blt c031"> - And the Dandy. - </td> - </tr> - </table> - <div class="nf-center-c0"> - <div class="nf-center c005"> - <div> - CONCLUSION. - </div> - </div> - </div> - <p class="c011"> - If the foregoing treatise to be judged by the <i>letter</i> and not the <i>spirit</i>-have - mercy reader. - </p> - <p class="c011"> - <span class="sc">Rules for measuring a hat.</span>-Take the circumference - on the <i>outside</i>, where the band is fixed, in inches. The breadth of - brim and depth of crown as wanted. - </p> - <hr class="c032" /> - <div class="nf-center-c0"> - <div class="nf-center"> - <div> - <i><span class="large">Entered at Stationer's Hall.</span></i> - </div> - </div> - </div> - <hr class="c033" /> - <div class="pbb"> - <hr class="pb c007" /> - </div> - <ul class="ul_1 c007"> - <li> - Transcriber's Notes: - <ul class="ul_2"> - <li> - For the two tables outlining the expenses in making a new hat, the - shillings and pence abbreviations were moved to column headers to - fit line-width restrictions. - </li> - <li> - The original caption for the illustration of hat styles was almost - illegible. It was replaced in the illustration by typed-in text in a - similar typeface. - </li> - <li> - Missing or obscured punctuation was corrected. - </li> - <li> - Typographical errors were silently corrected. - </li> - <li> - Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when - a predominant form was found in this book. - </li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> -<pre xml:space="preserve"> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Lloyd's Treatise on Hats, by Robert Lloyd - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LLOYD'S TREATISE ON HATS *** - -***** This file should be named 56103-h.htm or 56103-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/6/1/0/56103/ - -Produced by ellinora, Barry Abrahamsen and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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