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diff --git a/old/56103-0.txt b/old/56103-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index eccd548..0000000 --- a/old/56103-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1633 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Lloyd's Treatise on Hats, by Robert Lloyd - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Lloyd's Treatise on Hats - With Twenty-Four Engravings; Containing Novel Delineations - of His Various Shapes, Shewing the Manner in Which They - Should Be Worn... - -Author: Robert Lloyd - -Release Date: December 2, 2017 [EBook #56103] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LLOYD'S TREATISE ON HATS *** - - - - -Produced by ellinora, Barry Abrahamsen and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - LLOYD’S - - _TREATISE ON HATS_, - - WITH - - TWENTY-FOUR ENGRAVINGS; - - CONTAINING - - NOVEL DELINEATIONS OF HIS VARIOUS SHAPES, SHEWING THE MANNER IN WHICH - THEY SHOULD BE WORN, THE SORT OF FACE AND PERSON BEST SUITED TO EACH - PARTICULAR HAT, AND RULES FOR THEIR PRESERVATION; TO WHICH IS ADDED, - THE WHOLE PROCESS OF HAT-MAKING; TOGETHER WITH THE CUSTOMS AND - REGULATIONS OF JOURNEYMEN HATTERS, AND OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION. - - - ---------------------------- - - _Dedicated, with Permission, to the Head._ - - ---------------------------- - - - SECOND EDITION. - - _LONDON_: - - PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR, - _By F. Thorowgood, 9, Addle-Street, Aldermanbury_. - - --- - - 1819. - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - PREFACE. - - ------- - - -TO what trifles do some men owe a perpetuation of their “_famous -memory_.” There is Nimrod, for instance, not but what he may have had -other and _greater_ merits, yet he is best known as a “_mighty hunter_,” -and one who “wore _boots_;” now, allowing the relation to be true, and -that he _did_ hunt, and he _did_ wear boots, is there anything -extraordinary attaching to either, unless indeed, it could be proved -that he had _wooden legs_, or that he was capable of sitting on the -backs of two or more animals at one time; and if such were not the case, -the simple fact of itself was never worth recording; as well may it be -said, a thousand years hence, that LLOYD _was a great Hatmaker, and -lived in a great City_. - -But possibly the hunting system of this _old gentleman_ differed -materially from the pastime of our modern _Tally-ho’s_, and instead of -running after _hares_, _snipes_, and _conies_, Nimrod’s sport was on the -_field of battle_; in whose days the most rational idea is, that all was -_game_ which caused pursuits, and all pursuits _hunting_: If it were not -so, and his majesty’s capability only extended to the _riding_ upon a -_horse’s back_, there is not a butcher’s boy, in any country village -between BERWICK and ST. IVES, that would not have ridden Nimrod’s _rump_ -off. But it may be asked by those whose inclinations and patience shall -lead them to hunt through the following pages, whether this is what it -professes to be, a PREFACE, which is supposed to explain, or prepare the -mind for something to come; the answer to which is as follows: A horse -that will not _go_ without another being led before him, is not worth -_riding_, and if what is herein written requires a Preface to render it -_intelligible_, it is not worth the _reading_. - - _May, 1819._ - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - JOHN BULL. - - -THE greatest difficulty a painter has professionally to encounter is to -produce a striking resemblance of a countenance where there are no -striking features: just so with the Hat called “JOHN BULL.” It has no -marked style of peculiarity in the formation; but, independent of the -_fine texture_, there is in it a combination of rare qualities not often -met with: for instance—it has in appearance strong marks of becoming -gravity—a bold but manly dignity—a pleasing diffidence, with a -conscious, yet unassuming importance—and is recommended to persons -somewhat robust in form, features full and round, with a complexion not -too dark. In wearing, it should neither be placed aside, thrown too far -back, nor brought particularly forward over the face, for the following -reasons—the first position would bespeak an air of _non challance_—the -second a sort of slovenly neglect in the person—and the third an -incommunicative sullenness of disposition. - - - THE WELLINGTON. - - -SO called from the great Hero; not for the popularity of the name alone, -but for the reason that such a Hat was actually worn by him; and, in -fact, it is a shape uncommonly well suited both to his face and person; -the former being a sort of _long oval_, and the latter without the least -appearance of _bulk_: indeed a ponderous body, tall or short, with a -round, or what is vulgarly termed a pudding face, cannot judiciously -shelter itself under a Wellington. This Hat is not only particularly -_becoming_ the _person_ of his Grace, but there is that in its -appearance which is strongly characteristic of his great mind; for, to -an excellently formed crown of about seven inches deep, overspreading an -inch at top, there is united a fine arched brim of small dimensions, -taking a smartish sweep of the fourth part of a circle, and when placed -on the head somewhat _a la Francais_, carries with it an uncommon degree -of brilliancy and fire: and the fore and hind parts terminating in a -close _point_, clearly shows that, whether _advancing_ or _retreating_, -this modern CÆSAR is always sure to _carry_ his point. - - - THE TANDEM. - - -This is a Hat wherein is displayed a good deal of what may be termed -_character;_ for which reason, its _becoming_ wearers, comparatively -speaking, will be few in number; but notwithstanding this _marked_ -peculiarity, there is a sort of _style_ in its general feature which is -uncommonly _striking;_ nor is there any form whatever, where so much of -that airy lightness is to be seen, as in the Tandem. Few persons over -_thirty_ become this Hat, and none under _twenty_, and even _between_ -those ages, if the head be more than twenty-two inches, or less than -twenty-one and a half in circumference, the whole effect is destroyed. -Shape of the face immaterial, provided the complexion is not _too_ -dingy; but, above all things, neither _overgrown_ or little _fat_ -gentlemen should wear the Tandem. To have the best effect when on the -head, it should be placed rather forward, inclining a little to one -side. - - - THE TALLY-HO. - - -A very comfortable and convenient hunting Hat, partaking in some degree -the natural formation of the head: has many advantages over the old -fashioned cap; is _light_, though strong—_porous_, which allows the heat -of the head, arising from exertion, to fly off—and _elastic_, the effect -of which is to sit close without pressure; but, above all, it has a most -gentlemanly appearance, which it never fails to communicate to the -wearer, particularly if he be a true sportsman. - - - THE SHALLOW. - - -A Hat more admired for the ease and simplicity of style than for any -peculiar character in its general appearance; being low in the crown, it -is worn to most advantage by tall thin gentlemen with very large heads; -and as the fore and hind part of the brim is _set_ nearly horizontal -from the base of the crown, it has two great advantages; the first of -which is, that it may be conveniently worn over a wig; and, secondly, if -worn _without_, the shirt collar is kept clean much longer than usual. -This Hat, to have its proper effect, should be placed on the head with a -strict _formality of set_, which in many persons will beget an air of -_importance_. N. B. The late Justice Addington generally wore a shallow. - - - THE COBURG. - - -FOR _style_ and _form_ has strong claims to favour; but, being rather -small in appearance, the wearer, to show to most advantage, should be -somewhat slender in his make, features not too prominent, and in stature -about five feet five to five feet ten, but neither _above_ nor _below_. -One great advantage attending this Hat is, that the shape of the -wearer’s _nose_ is not at all material, provided it be not of that class -known by the term “bottled.” It may be worn a little aside, but by no -means placed too far on the head, a failing very general among _country_ -gentlemen. - - - THE MARQUIS. - - -A well-proportioned Hat in every respect, and may, not inaptly, be -termed the _Universal_, as it becomes most persons who wear it; in point -of form, there is nothing of what may be called _character_ or -_singularity_ in its appearance, and has the rare property of giving to -the _wearer_ a sort of dignified affability, a courteous condescension, -together with an agreeable modesty, at least in _appearance_. It is -named after a certain nobleman, who has all the above qualities united, -although in the _prime of life_. To show to advantage on the head, this -Hat should not go lower than the tip of the ears, both of which it may -barely touch, unless the wearer has a short neck, in that case it must -be worn somewhat aside, touching one ear only, but by no means to be -_thrown back_. - - - THE ECCENTRIC. - - -_Unique_ in its way, strongly embodying the name in its _form_. This Hat -is particularly recommended to gentlemen (and many are to be found) who -hold their understandings libelled by acting, thinking, speaking, or -dressing like _other men_; but, it must be observed, that slender -persons with _dark_ countenances, and about the middle size, best become -these Hats: for, however eccentric a man would wish to appear, by -adopting any _peculiar_ mode of dress, he never can hope to succeed -unless nature has done a _little_ for him; it follows then of course, -that a tall or short man, if he be stout and well grown, with a fine -open florid countenance, cannot cleverly become an _Eccentric_; but an -_agreeable_ contorsion of the eye, a trifling disagreement in the -symmetry of the shoulders, or a slight _bias_ of the body _right_ or -_left_, are indescribable advantages in giving full effect to this Hat, -which may be worn a little on one side, with a gentle inclination over -the eyes, unless they are playing at cross purposes, in the event of -which it must be thrown quite back, to give effect to their _playful -humour_. - - - THE REGENT. - - -A finely-formed and most decidedly elegant Hat: is somewhat upon a large -scale, the crown being upwards of seven inches high, much yeoman, with -an excellently turned and corresponding brim, producing together a happy -union of the nicest proportions: It is worn to most advantage by persons -whose height and bulk are above the common stature; not that it is meant -to be understood, that every athletic or robust form would _become_ a -Regent; on the contrary, there is not a shape in the whole catalogue -that demands in the wearer a greater share of _external requisites_ than -this; even the very _gait_ is concerned, which, to strike, should be -stately and firm, though easy, each step measuring exactly half the -length of the whole body—more would become an absolute _stride_—and less -a mere _strut_; than which nothing can be farther removed from graceful -_carriage_: Be it understood, also, that the Regent is most becoming -when placed a little on the _right_ side, but by no means to come -_within_ half an inch of the ear—unless the latter should exceed its -fair dimensions—in that case it were best hid altogether; but then, to -do this, the Hat is forced beyond the proper position, and what was -intended as ornament, becomes the very reverse: So circumstanced, the -Noble Lord, the Shallow, or the John Bull, might be worn to most -advantage; but when Nature has been a little attentive to the minuter -parts, as well as the greater proportions of manly exterior, the Regent -cannot fail to give additional dignity to the wearer; creating thereby a -combination of elegancies that must render his appearance absolutely -IRRESISTIBLE. - - - THE KENT. - - -A very gentlemanly Hat, and although there is not the dignity of the -Regent about it, there is, notwithstanding, much to admire: Indeed, the -scale of proportions are very similar in both; the only _real_ -difference existing in the _crown_, which is about one-half of an inch -lower than the latter; and, in the _nautical phraseology_, may not -inaptly be termed a Regent cut down. It is very singular, and worth -remarking, that trifling as the Kent differs from the Regent in actual -measurement, the contrariety of effect, when on the head, is great and -striking; which unquestionably proves, that a very slight deviation from -a given rule will produce results more opposed to each other than the -deviation is to the rule itself. The style in which this Hat should be -worn is as follows:—if the head be of an _oval_ form, place it thereon, -as near as possible, in an horizontal position; but if a _round_ head -(which of all descriptions is most dreaded by a _castermonger_) let the -Hat be thrown a _little_ back, with a slight inclination on the side -most agreeable, which will tend to prevent its assuming that -_trencher_-like appearance too common from such causes. The _personal_ -requisites suitable to the Kent, may be found on referring to the -Cobourg; with this difference, that, as the brim is of larger -dimensions, the wearer, if he pleases, may be six feet high. - - - THE CUMBERLAND. - - -THIS Hat, in outline and symmetry, is highly prepossessing, and will -always have a number of admirers. The formation, dimensions, and style -of the brim, are similar to the Regent and the Kent; but the crown is -_taper_ and much _shallower_ than either. It should be worn as nearly -horizontal as possible; and, if the wearer be of the middle stature, or -above, his bulk or countenance is immaterial. - - - THE VIS-A-VIS. - - -A remarkably STYLISH HAT, possessing great and _peculiar_ advantages -over most others, on which account its claims to patronage are of the -highest order. The brim, before as well as behind, being brought down -quite square, and almost in a perpendicular line with the crown itself, -gives the wearer an opportunity of observing things _en passant_, by a -sort of side-glance, without being _seen_ so to do; thus, it is well -adapted for gentlemen who would fain indulge in the most exquisite -admiration of the beauteous _fair_: but by reason of their extreme -_modesty_, shrink from the trial: There is, also, another and a very -important consideration, which cannot be allowed to pass unnoticed—it is -a well-known truth, that there are certain situations in life where the -falling into is not at all times to be avoided; the result of which is, -to create in the imagination, a perpetual apprehension lest some -villainous intruder should, in defiance of eloquence or inclination, -_compel_ the _acceptance_ of his official or rather _officious_ -attendance: to counteract so dirty a custom, as well as to nip the -system in the very _bud_, this Hat is most admirably contrived—for by a -simple elevation of the hinder part, the front may be brought so far -over the face, as to form a complete shade for the countenance. Here -then is the attainment of two _great_ ends—modesty encouraged, and -impertinence restrained. Lastly, and not the least of its useful -purposes is, that should the introduction of the Vis-a-Vis become -general, those novel and graceful evolutions of the body, denominated -the _bend_, the _flutter_, and the _poke_, may be performed in a much -smaller space than usual, and without the least danger to the eyes, -which is greatly to be feared, when the distinguished votaries, in the -eager performance of these newly-imported civilities, are brought too -abruptly _face to face_. - -Although there is much of the _dash_ in this Hat, it has, -notwithstanding, a sort of _sombre_ appearance, which calls on the -wearer for a _figure_ and _countenance_ to correspond; it is therefore, -if _ornamentally_ considered, recommended to such only, whose complexion -is of a darkish hue, visage long, not over bulky in person, and _above_ -the middle size; but, if _usefully_ considered, all the nicer -distinctions must yield to imperious necessity. - - - THE PETERSHAM. - - -A connoisseur examining a fine painting, was asked by a bye-stander, -which part he most admired; his answer was, “_no part_.” “What!” -observed the other, “is it possible that so highly talented a production -as this is acknowledged to be, can have no merits in your estimation?” -To which the connoisseur replied—“Sir, a work so masterly in -execution—so striking in effect—so perfect in _all_ its parts, cannot be -truly estimated but as a _whole_.” Here, then, the _picture_ is the -_Petersham_—the _selection_ of beauties therein, the _difficulty_: To -get rid of which, be it sufficient to state, that the prominent feature -in this Hat is elegance of _style_, strongly visible in all its parts, -and each part in unison with the whole; which for _tonish_ and exquisite -_dash_ has no competitor. It will be seen, from what is here stated, -that, much as this Hat is capable of transfusing its _graces_ to the -wearer (and who can doubt it), some _little_ attention to _personal_ -requisites is necessary—which, in stature, should be over five feet -seven, and not too lusty; countenance or complexion is of little -consequence; but the visage should be oval, such corresponding -uncommonly well with the fine _arched_ brim, which forms nearly -two-fifths of a circle; and, when tastefully placed on the head, with a -slight inclination over the face, so as to bring the _fore_ point on a -line with the _tip_ of the nose, such will be the result, that, whatever -difficulty may attend a just description of its astonishing effects, the -advantages to a wearer will most assuredly be FELT. - - - THE TILBURY. - - -THIS Hat is bold in appearance, but full of _character_: Indeed, there -is so much of the _whip_ in its general outline, that it can never, with -propriety, be worn but as a _driving_ Hat. - - - THE BANG-UP. - - -WHAT a pleasing reflection it is, all things considered, that near as -the human _form_ may approach to perfection, still that form is capable -of being _improved_ by ingenuity; but then, the difficulty is to decide -on what really _are improvements_: for instance, some will admire a fine -slope in the coat _skirts_, tapering off like the tail of a goose; some -(whether or no to catch the manners of a _hoyden_) will put on the -_frock_; others, again, admire the _pantaloon_; and many give a decided -preference to _inexpressibles_. But the _Bang-up_, as a Hat, is the very -master-piece of inventive taste, wherein all admiration must of -necessity _centre_, having not only in its general appearance a bold and -manly _front_, but a pleasing harmony of parts, all tending to produce -an agreeable union of _taste_ and _utility_; who then would mount the -“_box_” without being decorated with its chiefest ornament? - - - THE CLERICUS. - - -A very CONTEMPLATIVE, SEDATE, PIOUS-LOOKING HAT, much worn by -Police-Officers, Quack-Doctors, and Clergymen; this, it may be said, is -a strange assemblage of _characters_ to bring under _one head_, and some -may hold the _association_ to be a reflection on the _latter_, when in -truth the very _opposite_ is intended; in proof of which it is only -necessary to observe that, where the attainment of an object depends on -_outward show_, such contrivances will be resorted to as are best -calculated to secure the object in view; and the very _assumption_ of -the habit here spoken of by the “traps” and “quacks” of the day, is -evidence of the habit itself being in the _highest possible estimation_. -If taken in an _ornamental_ point of view, it would be no easy task to -decide on its merits; but if _usefully_ considered, the conclusion is -plain and easy. It is an admitted fact, that an idea of dignity cannot -embody itself with _little things_, hence the custom of wearing _large -wigs_, for such doubtless these Hats were originally intended, and for -this reason, the hinder part being drawn up with loops in two places, no -peruke, however large its dimensions, can receive the least injury; in -short, it may be worn under this Hat with as little discomfiture to the -_intricate friz_ as though it were absolutely on the very block itself: -here then is produced what may be termed a happy union of wisdom and -piety, inasmuch as it is allowed, when speaking of high legal -characters, that the _wisdom_ is in the _wig_, and by the same rule -(when Clericus is worn by a Divine) the _piety_ must be in the _Hat_. -The style of putting on will greatly depend on the size of the _peruke_, -without which it should never be worn, particularly if the hair be _lank -and black_. - - - THE BON-TON. - - -IN point of form and fine proportions, this Hat cannot fail to rank high -in general estimation. Its appearance very much resembles the -Wellington, or rather it is between the Wellington and the Marquis; and, -like the latter, there is that becoming _style_, which not only -_harmonizes_, but gives a _peculiar grace_ to the majority of its -wearers. - - - THE BARONET. - - -THIS is a Hat highly respectable in appearance, and well suited to -gentlemen in the _decline_ of life; but as that is a state to which few -will acknowledge while there is a capability of _hobbling without a -crutch_, something definite had better be stated by giving the precise -age;—take it then at _fifty_, which will put all doubts at rest. The -reason for fixing on the Baronet, as suitable to those in declining -years, is its grave, reflecting, methodical cast, such as would seem to -say of the _wearer_—“Here is one that possesses a serenity of mind, an -easy indifference of disposition, a tranquillity of thought, which would -quietly disentangle itself from the vain, shadowy, fleeting desires of -this life, and leave no regret behind.” There are many other -recommendatory properties in this Hat, but those already particularized -are the most valuable; yes, _valuable_,—for it is a well-known fact, -that mankind are often made up of contrivance, that is, they frequently -give to _appearance_ the shape of _reality_;—and however strange the -doctrine may at first appear, it is nevertheless true, that the custom -is often attended with very _beneficial results_, inasmuch as by -_endeavouring_ to maintain an _apparent_ consistency between _habit_ and -_action_, the _propriety_ of doing right becomes so strongly impressed -on the mind, that the villainy of a bad practice is seen in its _worst -deformity_, and conscience, the unerring monitor of the mind, rides -triumphant over all. These are recommendations of no ordinary nature, -and such that will no doubt cause much inquiry after the _Baronet_. As -to growth or countenance, there is an old saying, that “beggars should -not be choosers;” and the wearer, if he becomes so from _necessity_, -will feel the propriety of leaving choice out of the question. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - -[Illustration: _Engraved for_ =Lloyd’s= _treatise on Hats._ - -_John Bull. The Cobourg. The Baron. Clericus. The New Dash. The Shallow. - -The Cumberland. The Viz-a-viz. The Eccentric. The Wellington. A Noble -Lord. The Tandem. - -The Marquis. The Tally-ho. The Bang-up. Baronet. The Paris Beau. The Bon -Ton. - -A bit of Blood. The Jolliffe. The Dandy. The Regent. The Irresistible. -The Petersham. - -Designed by R. Lloyd, Hat Maker, No. 92, Newgate-Street._] - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - THE JOLLIFFE. - - -A mind which is struck, through the medium of sight, with impressions of -sublimity, will have those impressions strengthened in proportion as the -_magnitude_ of the object viewed is the greater, and as all things are -but great or small _comparatively_, it follows, of course, that bodies -of the same class, description, or affinity, which are _less_ than the -_largest_, must suffer, when brought into the scale of comparison with -their superiors: agreeably to these rules, the JOLLIFFE, whose -dimensions exceed all others, comes forward with strong claims to -patronage, for besides the importance with which it never fails to -strike every beholder, it is sure to convey a corresponding importance -to the WEARER. Here then are considerations which should not be trifled -with, particularly as the _assumption_ of a thing is often taken for the -thing itself—nay, are there not situations in life where _appearances_ -become so vitally important that it would be little short of criminality -not to _put them on_? and where the attainment of great ends may be -insured by nothing more than a simple attention to the _formation_ of a -_Hat_, it would be worse than folly to neglect the means. Rightly taken, -what a multiplicity of persons might be benefitted by the above _hints_; -Princes, Peers, and Plenipotentiaries; Senators, State-ministers, or -Trading Politicians;—all—all may find their interest in the adoption of -the Jolliffe; and that these great personages may not plead ignorance as -to the manner in which it should be worn with the best effect, here -follow the proper instructions. - -If a PRINCE, let it be _lightly_ placed on the head, and a little -_aside_, which _bespeaks a sort of cheerful approving_ confidence in -one’s own actions.—If a PEER, it should be worn in a firm horizontal -position, just covering half the forehead; which gives the appearance of -a wise and steady determination where great questions are agitated, -particularly when they become _self_ interesting.—If an AMBASSADOR, it -may be thrown a _little back_, inclining somewhat aside; such position -indicating a bold and careless indifference to all around, which will be -taken for granted that such could not arise from any other cause than a -total disregard for the _result_ of his mission; a practice, although -not often hit on, may have many advantages. As to the three _latter_ -characters, their pursuits having all the same end—POPULARITY—let them -consult the style of the Prince, and remember that, in whomsoever -confidence has credit, popularity is sure to follow. - - -------------- - -⸪ As the Jolliffe is not likely to be worn unless for _special -purposes_, to give an idea who would best become it is unnecessary. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - THE FOUR-IN-HAND. - - A modern-styled _whip_, - Howe’er he may dip - Into fashion’s wide vortex his _pinions_, - To make a bold stand, - LLOYD’S prime _Four-in-Hand_ - Must cover his _upper dominions_. - - For ease, form, and _set_, - The like never yet - Was seen, at least so run opinions; - Then ye four-in-hand whips, - In your _jarvey_-like trips - Take care of your _upper dominions_. - - _DIMENSIONS_. - - It measures, by rule, - Near three inches full - In the brim, with a crown wide at top; - Nor is there a _face_ - But what it will _grace_, - If purchased at LLOYD’S _fancy shop_. - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - A BIT OF BLOOD. - - -The term itself naturally implies a something upon a _small_ scale, -which is the fact, and although there is nothing of that imposing -dignity of style in the above Hat, which characterizes the _Regent_, the -_Petersham_, &c. there is a _lively_, _animated_, and _vigorous_ fire in -all its features, that will not allow of any falling off in the general -comparison. To give a complete catalogue of the many VIRTUES belonging -to _a bit of blood_, would exceed the allotted limits; but it cannot be -amiss to detail a few of the more _prominent_, that all, whose -necessities may bear to the point, should be _benefitted_ by the -_wearing_: First then, it is admirably calculated for those who are -about to ask _favors_, such being more readily _granted_ when they seem -the _less wanted_, and no one could suppose that the _saucy_ animation -which would be so strongly visible under this Hat could make the -application from NECESSITY. Secondly, it will be of singular advantage -to _elderly gentlemen_ in pursuit of _young wives_, who nine times in -ten decide on the choice of a man from the _cock_—of his Hat. Thirdly, -(not that there is much need of it for such a purpose now-a-days) its -advantages for those that are tormented with _dunns_ are incalculable, -for, by being placed pretty firm on the head, inclining rather to one -side, at the same time assuming a sharp _erect_ position of the body, a -stern direction of the eye, and arms _a-kimbo_, the devil himself, in -the shape of a _creditor_, would hardly hazard the REPETITION OF A -VISIT. - -_N. B._ No service to gentlemen of the _learned_ profession. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - THE - - _PROCESS_ - - OF - - HAT-MAKING - - EXPLAINED, - - WITH PREFATORY REMARKS, &c. &c. - - ------- - - -TURKS are said to assign as a reason for not wearing Hats, that they are -put together by _witchcraft_. There is certainly a great deal of -ingenuity in the practice, and some _effects_ produced whose _causes_ -are as yet unexplained: but, with all due deference to these _turban -gentlemen_, it is presumed that they have objections beyond what is -above stated, some of which are as follows:—_First_, their country is -destitute of the most essential material—FUR. _Second_, the climate -being extremely sultry, stoves, irons, and scalding water are not likely -to become favourites. _Thirdly_, being compelled by their religion to -keep their heads _close shaved_, a Hat, above all human inventions, -would be the most ridiculous covering _they_ could adopt. - -There are many opinions as to the time Hats were first invented, and, -very probably, all equally erroneous. Some carry the date as far back as -the foundation of Christianity, attributing the merit to St. Luke, of -whom it is said, that he, having tender feet, put a layer of hair or fur -between them and his sandals, in which situation friction and moisture -caused such an interweaving of particles, that the whole became strongly -united, or (technically called) FELTED. Whether the story, as applied to -Luke, be true or false, is immaterial; but that such did happen with -some one, is very likely; nor is it at all unlikely, but that an -occurrence of this kind did really give the first idea of Hat-making. -Having remarked thus much, I shall next proceed to state, what is not -the less true than surprising, which is, that of the various branches of -manufacture which this country is so highly distinguished for, none are -less understood than Hat-making; nay, there is not one person in fifty -who, if he were asked the question, could tell whether a Hat was or was -not a _woven_ substance; nor is there one in 500 but what suppose that -the _skin_ of a hare or rabbit is worked with the fur _attached_ to it, -as in the natural state; and, to form a correct judgment of the external -material, when manufactured, whether it be hair, wool, or beaver, -although many pretend, none are really competent but those _experienced_ -in the _trade_. - -To show the absurd notions some entertain on this matter, I state as a -fact, that I do not know a manufacturer or seller in the trade but what -has been applied to, by some one or other, to have a _Beaver_ Hat made -from a _hare_’s skin. Nay, I remember once offending a very good -customer, and a man not wanting for sense either, by an involuntary -burst of laughter, on his presenting the skin of a _French lap-dog_ for -the very same purpose. - -It is no uncommon thing for persons who are on pretty good terms with -their capabilities to give opinions as to the _merits_ or _demerits_ of -a Hat; which opinions are as opposite to the true state of the case as -the sun’s rays to a state of darkness. I shall give an instance, -although a trifling one, of a very common error among persons who -_suppose_ themselves to have a knowledge of the subject, which is this, -if the picker has not a very good eye, some of the larger hairs will be -left in the Hat, and consequently the most _visible_; these are directly -termed “_grey hairs_,” when the truth is, that they are the _blackest_ -in the whole composition; but being thicker than the general mass, they -receive a greater portion of _light_, which is mistaken for a grey -colour: an easy method of proving the fact is to pull one of these _grey -hairs_ from the Hat, and place it on a piece of white paper, the -_contrast_ will decide the question. - -Again, whatever produces a glutinization of the NAP, is said to be the -effect of the stiffening; this is not true in every case, for it is -frequently owing to improper management in placing the Hat, when wet, -before a large fire, which should never be done; the better way is, if -very wet, to hang it up without brushing or wiping, and when dry it is -easily put to rights, by gently passing over a clothes brush: if only -slightly wet, wipe it with a handkerchief, and, when dry, it will brush -clean. But the great fault with most persons is to put on their Hats, -day after day, in the same _dirty state_ as when taken off at night; -from which it is natural to infer, that there must be a vast -accumulation of dirt; it is this dirt, when exposed to the rain, that -forms a sort of cement, or paste, having all the appearance of what is -commonly called “_gum_.” - -Another proof of erroneous judgment—Profuse perspiration of the head is -what many are subject to; by reason of which, from the frequency of -wearing, and the _porosity_ of the Hat, there is a continual absorption -of moisture going on until it becomes completely _saturated_, -particularly in front, the consequence is, that the nap lies buried in a -greasy matter, which matter is also, but very inappropriately termed -_gum_ or _stiffening_, when in point of fact it is _neither_, for the -very same effect would, under the like circumstances, be produced, and -in much less time, if the Hat were not stiffened at all. The best remedy -for this is a piece of thin flannel under the leather, and that -frequently changed. - -There is nothing so detrimental to a Hat as a severe exposure to rain on -the first, second, or even third time of wearing; for this reason, the -materials wherewith it is composed are in a manner quite _green_, and -require _seasoning_; to effect which it should be frequently put on in -dry weather. I have always found that a Hat, constantly worn for five or -six weeks _without being wet_, underwent every sort of hardship -afterwards with little or no injury, retaining at the same time its -beauty—form—and wearing _three times longer_ than it otherwise would -have done. It may be asked, why not, to prevent accidents, render the -Hat _water-proof_? that is, impervious to the action of either -atmosphere or rain. The thing is easy enough, I admit; but where there -is a choice of only _two evils_, it is always best to select the -_least_. We all know (or should know) that if a man were to enclose -himself, arms, legs, and body, in what is called an _oil-skin dress_, -and that drawn close round the neck, the whole tightly fitted to every -part of his person as a Hat is to the head, the most unpleasant -consequences would ensue; the cause why is obviously this, the -exhalations of the body, particularly in a state of exertion, would when -so _enclosed_, be either prevented from flying off, as nature requires, -or otherwise checked altogether; precisely so with the head if the -porosity of the Hat was destroyed, which it must be to resist -effectually the action of water. This deduction must be so clear and -self-evident that further reasoning is unnecessary. Another great -objection against water-proof _Hats_ is, that the ingredients made use -of for such purposes, when exposed to the sun’s heat, are so acted upon -as to cause a _decomposition_ of the colour, and nine times in ten, the -Hat, before it is half worn out, becomes any thing but what it was meant -to be. - -It is astonishing to hear the number of qualifications a Hat is _said_ -to have, and each as opposite to the other as it is possible for any two -things to be; some, for instance, maintain that it cannot be good unless -it is _light_, others again will decidedly condemn it for _being so_, -insisting that the chief recommendation is its being firm and _stout_. -All that is requisite to be observed on this, is that _weight_ has no -more to do with the _quality_ of a Hat, than the situation of prime -minister has to do with the cramming of turkies. A very inferior Hat may -be made _equally light_ with the most superior, and in both cases the -cost of manufacture will be less than if they were made _stout_. - -The length of the beaver too is another point on which the difference of -opinion is often experienced; many are for very _short naps_, declaring -all others to be outrageously vulgar; but the majority of wearers seem -best pleased with _long_ naps, which always _take_ and _retain_ the best -_black_, while, on the contrary those that are very short never do. A -medium between the two is the most preferable. - -Having stated thus much, I shall next proceed to explain in what way a -fine Hat is _made_, describing as accurately as possible the various -processes it undergoes, as also the materials with which it is composed, -the proportions of each as well as the quantity of work a man is capable -of doing, whether _maker_ or _finisher_, in a week, the amount of wages, -together with some of the curious regulations, by-laws, &c. &c. &c. - -In the first place, as I shall have occasion to mention a few of the -_implements_ by name, a short description of them may not be amiss. - -There is the BOW, which in form is not unlike what is used for playing -on a _double bass_, but in length and thickness is equal to a -constable’s staff; there is a bridge at each end, from one to the other -of which is tightly strung a stout line of _catgut_. - -The HURDLE is situate in what is called the bow garret, and is a sort of -_table_, on which the _fur_ is bowed, or mixed, having the farther end -and sides enclosed to prevent the material from being blown away. - -The BATTERY is somewhat like the hopper of a mill, in this is contained -the hot _liquor_, and is mostly constructed for eight men, _round_ which -they stand when _making_; the lower part is lead, the upper or working -part mahogany. All batteries are formed into divisions called PLANKS, -one of which is allotted to each man. There are many other little things -used by makers, but these three are all that deserve particular notice. - -The first thing a maker looks for in the morning is the FUR, or raw -material, which is furnished to him by _weight_; the quantity being more -or less, according to the substance of the Hat required, and is in _two_ -parcels, one of which contains the BEAVER, or napping; the other the -BODY (a proportionate scale of both will be seen hereafter). Thus -provided he takes it to the BOW GARRET; the materials for the body are -first placed on the hurdle, and the bow being hung at the centre for -support, is held in the left hand horizontally, so that the catgut may -come in contact with the fur; in the _right_ hand is placed a small -piece of stick, with a _nut_ at the end, and in this position the work -begins after the following manner. The _catgut_ of the bow (being first -placed in the midst of the _fur_) is pulled or struck with the knotted -stick, which produces, from a quick repetition of the stroke, a -continued _vibration_, this _vibration_ it is that causes a separation -or _flitting_ of the fur, at the same time mixing and cleansing it. This -operation is continued until such ends are fully attained. It is next -divided into _halves_, one of which is laid aside, and the other again -bowed over. In this second operation the workman contrives, partly by -bowing, and partly by a slight _wicker frame_, to bring the material -into an oblong form, and equal in size to a large sheet of cartridge -paper; this is called a BAT, and when done it is gently _pressed down_ -by the _wicker_, after which a damp linen cloth is laid all over, and on -this again is placed a thick piece of dry HORSE HIDE; the workman now -begins to press hard on the hide for about five minutes; in the doing -this the fur adheres close to the damp cloth, into which it is _doubled -up_, and once more undergoes the pressure of the hand. Under this -operation (which is called BASONING) the _bat_ becomes _consolidated_, -and may be thrown, when taken out of the cloth, from one end of the -garret to the other without injury. The second half is next bowed, -formed into a _bat_, and _basoned_ as the first. This half _remains_ on -_the hurdle_, and a piece of _paper_, somewhat conical, is placed on it, -_over which_, and agreeable to the shape, the sides of the bat are -_doubled_. Here then is formed one half of the _body_, this is laid -aside, and the first bat is then put flat on the hurdle _on which_ the -one previously doubled is placed with its open part downwards; the lower -bat being transversely doubled over the top hat, forms a sort of -conical, or harlequin’s cap; in this state it is once more put into the -damp cloth, where it receives another hardening for the purpose of -uniting or _knitting_ both _bats_ together; after this it is folded into -the compass of _two hands_, ready for the _plank_. The next thing is the -_beaver_, or covering, which is bowed in _form_ to correspond with the -_body_, but has nothing to do with it in this stage. - -Matters being completed thus far, this is called the _first process of -Hat-making_. The second commences as follows:—The workman having gone -from the bow garret to the making shop, takes his stand at the battery, -under which is a FIRE, for the purpose of heating the liquor;[1] into -this hot liquor the _body_ is quickly _immersed_, where it remains till -soaked through; it is afterwards laid on the _plank_ to _drain_ and -_cool_; this done, it is unfolded, gently rolled, turned at short -intervals in every direction, to prevent the sides uniting together; and -as the _liquor_ becomes _cold_ and rolled out, it is continually -supplied with _hot_ and fresh, by the sprinkling of a _brush_, which is -dipped in the _kettle_ for that purpose; under this operation, assisted -by the astringency of the _vitriol_, the body _shrinks_, and begins to -assume a tough _substance_. When it has shrunk to a _certain size_ (say -three-fifths, if to be _double_ covered), it is laid flat on the -_plank_, and the _first_ coat of _beaver_, as it comes from the _bow_, -is laid quite over it; the _brush_ is now dipped into the hot liquor, -the contents of which is sprinkled all over the _beaver_, directly -afterwards it is gently _patted down_ with the hot brush; here the body -is put into a _hair-cloth_, rolled in hot liquor, turned inside out, -rolled again until the _beaver_, is completely worked into the body; -when this is effected, it is in a fit state to receive the _second_ -covering, which is put on as the first, the _working_, _turning_, -_patting_, and _rolling_ still continuing until it is reduced to a fit -dimension, the _beaver_ quite _clean_, and all together assuming a -closely _felted_, fine, solid piece of workmanship; after which it is -immediately _blocked_ in this same liquor, to the size wanted, and put -into a _stove_ to dry, from whence it is taken, and with a small fine -card the beaver is gently raised; without this, one half would lie -buried, and the beauty lost.—Here then is the complete PROCESS OF -HAT-MAKING. - -Footnote 1: - - The liquor, which is always kept up to _scalding_ heat, is nothing - more than clean soft water, with a wine glass of _vitriol_, and a - small quantity of beer dregs thrown in. The first is to _shrink_ the - body of the Hat in working; the other to destroy the _pernicious_ - effect of the vitriol. - -It is next sent to the DYER from whom it passes to the FINISHER, who, -after stiffening, blocking, and _half_ finishing, sends it to be picked, -which is performed by a woman, whose place it is to pull out the _kemps_ -or thick hairs, without injuring the beaver,[2] although that is not -always accomplished. From the _picker_ it returns to the finisher who, -by the IRON and velvet cushion, gives it those highly brilliant and -admired beauties that an English Hat is so pre-eminently distinguished -for. The shaper next takes it in hand, who is guided in his operations -by the _fancy_ of the wearer, if bespoke, which is sometimes a little -_whimsical_. After shaping, it goes to the _trimmer_, from whom it is -returned to the TIPPER OFF; he gets it ready for wearing; it is then -sent to its destination, when the master, if he is _fortunate_, puts the -amount into his pocket.[3] - -Footnote 2: - - It has frequently been asked, why not make a Hat with _beaver only_, - the answer is, there is not sufficient _stamina_ or strength in it to - become a sound _felted_ substance. It would be worse than building a - _brick_ house without _mortar_ or some sort of cement, to bind the - whole together. - -Footnote 3: - - Some have payment _before_-hand, which brings out the following old, - but very foolish saying, “there are but _two_ bad paymasters, _he_ who - pays beforehand, and _he_ who _never_ pays.” How the latter can be a - _paymaster_ requires some little ingenuity to determine. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - THE - - LAWS AND CUSTOMS - - OF - - JOURNEYMEN HATTERS. - - [Illustration: Decoration] - - -TO enter _fully_ into the various regulations and forms that the -“_trade_” have, from time to time, instituted and acted upon, would of -itself fill a volume; all that can be done then in this small work will -be to give the best possible outline of such matters as are most likely -to interest those who may wish for information on the subject. The most -important laws of this trade are these:— - -_First_—No man shall work as a _maker_ or _finisher_, unless he has -served an apprenticeship of seven years to what is called a “_fair -master_.” - -_Second_—To be a fair master, and entitled, according to the rules of -the trade, to take an apprentice, he must have manufactured his _own -Hats_, seven years prior to the _taking_, or otherwise have served a -fair seven years’ apprenticeship himself to the trade. - -_Third_—Whether there be one, two, or more in a manufacturing firm, that -firm are not to have more than two apprentices at one time. - -_Fourth_—There are a number of masters who do not manufacture their own -“_stuff_,” but are employed by “_Great Houses_,” who, although they have -a right, by law, to take apprentices, yet those apprentices, by reason -of their masters not working their _own materials_, are never admitted -to stand by the side of _fair men_, on which account they must ever -continue _foul_, and debarred of the usual privileges, or submit to a -_second_ apprenticeship. This is a case that frequently occurs; indeed -it is no uncommon thing to see a man with a wife and half a dozen -children, himself near thirty years old, serving a second apprenticeship -for a fair time; the hardship of this must be admitted, inasmuch as it -is punishing a man for a fault he never committed. - -_Fifth_—A _foul man_ is one that has not served his apprenticeship -agreeably to the rule of the trade, or has been guilty of some act -detrimental to the _supposed_ interests of the journeymen in general. -These are called “KNOBSTICKS.” - -_Sixth_—A fair man has the privilege of what is called “_turns upon -tramp_,” that is, if he cannot obtain work in the town where he resides, -or has an inclination to _travel_, he may journey or _tramp_ to the -next; should any of the _fraternity_ be there, and he wishes to get -“_shopped_” he is “_asked for_” by one in that factory, (no man being -allowed to ask for himself), if unsuccessful, there are two night’s -lodging for him, two pots of strong beer, bread and cheese, and a -shilling or two to forward him to the next town. The _money turn_ in -London is five shillings, but no man is entitled to a _second_ turn in -one place, until after the expiration of six months from his receiving -the first. - -_Seventh_—If a journeyman has, by his own act, become _foul_, nothing -can absolve him but submitting to a _fine_, and this is measured -according to the offence, which, in some _heinous_ cases, such as -“_creeping_” into favour with the master, or going to work when all the -rest have struck for wages, is as high as ten guineas. - -There are three distinct courts for the examination and punishment of -offenders. The _first_, or High Court of CONGRESS, is a sort of general -assembly, composed of either Makers or Finishers, just as their separate -interests may be concerned; but on all joint questions these parties -form a _junction_. In this court matters of importance only are -discussed; as, for instance, the _advance of prices_, the abrogation of -old laws, and the making of new ones, under the _operation_ of which, it -sometimes happens that both men and masters, as well as the law of the -land, are alike the victims. The _fines_ levied in this court are -appropriated to special and “STRIKING” purposes, often tending to -produce a “COMBINATION” of interesting effects. The masters too are not -wholly exempt from these pretty little combinations, which, however, do -not always realize or carry their intended _point_; this is owing (it is -thought) to the vast affection journeymen bear towards their employers; -indeed so much so, that they cannot bear the _latter_ should “LOWER” -themselves. - -There is a court below this, which is formed by taking one or two men -from the seven _nearest_ shops. Their sitting, if not _public_, is sure -to be in a _public-house_, president, _Sir John Barleycorn_. The matters -chiefly brought here are those that relate to the misconduct of -journeymen towards each other in the same factory, and which cannot be -settled where they originated. This is called “DOZENING,” and their -power of FINE extends to two guineas, which is drank in good old stout -by the whole seven shops; but as all _dry_ subjects are prohibited in -this tribune, the extent of fine greatly depends on the state of the -weather; so that if it be a sultry summer’s day, the punishment of an -offender is in proportion to the _sun’s heat_. - -The third and lowest _court_ is an assembly of shop-mates only, this -meeting is called a “GARRET MATCH,” and may be demanded for the -punishment of an aggressor, by any aggrieved man in a factory. Power of -fine from two to ten shillings. - -I have before stated that there are in this trade _foul_ men; in point -of number they constitute about one-sixth part of the whole; but their -earnings, or price of labour is the same as the fair trade. - -A journeyman finisher in full work will earn, on an average, from three -to four pounds a-week; while, on the contrary, a maker cannot get more -than _fifty shillings_. This is a subject of much jealousy and -discontent; nor is it likely to be otherwise, unless the latter can -raise himself to an equality with the former; against this there are -many obstacles, one of which is, the _increasing_ foul trade, who would -continue working, even though the fair men had “_struck_.” Another is, -that they could never obtain the co-operation of the finishers, who, -being amply paid themselves, think it best to leave well alone. - -These are the _principal regulations_ which govern journeymen hatters, -whether they have a good or a bad tendency is questionable; there are -many in the _trade_ who decidedly condemn them, giving as their reasons, -that they encourage idleness, tippling, and endless squabbles. -_Idleness_—inasmuch as when men are summoned to discuss the most -trifling matters, even though the meeting be at five o’clock in the -morning, they seldom feel _disposed_ to return to their work that day. -_Tippling_—for the reason that, as _fines_ are mostly spent in _drink_, -the conviction of a supposed offender is generally _thirsted_ after; but -as the quantum levied seldom suffices, all further supplies for the -remainder of the day are met by individual subscription. In these cases -there is no show of niggardliness, as every succeeding gallon of the -“_sparkling entire_,” is but an _internal_ messenger, bearing the glad -tidings of another to come. _Squabbles_, because it is natural, when the -_desire_ for a thing is once created, and the gratification of that -desire (where nothing of criminality attaches) can be indulged, by -having recourse to a little contrivance, that the opportunity of so -doing should be more frequently _made_, than suffered to approach -accidentally; which will account for the _trifling magnitudes_ that are -allowed to agitate shops and factories in general. The arguments in -_favour_ of these laws are, that without them, apprentices would be -careless in serving out their _time_, the trade over-run with bad -workmen, hats greatly deteriorated in the manufacture, the excellence of -which is their chief recommendation in a foreign market, and the surest -guarantee of the master’s profits at home. - -Having given the _contending_ opinions, in reference to the laws of this -trade, I shall say a word or two concerning the shape, and manner of -placing a hat on the head. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - ON THE - - SHAPE AND STYLE - - OF - - WEARING A HAT. - - -THERE is no part of a man’s dress that _makes_ or _mars_ his appearance -so much as his hat; not that it is its striking beauty when new, or a -want of it when old, that is most materially concerned in producing -either of the above effects; the grand point is the FORM, and the -position which it is made to assume on the head; yet how few there are -who give the least attention to either, except indeed military men, and -they in general are uncommonly tasty, affording the best example of the -precise style in which a hat should be worn. It is no less singular than -true, that the same hat, by being placed on the head in different -positions, will give, in _appearance_, as many distinct _characters_ to -the _same person_ as the number of those positions amount to. The most -striking are as follows:—_sullenness_—_indolence_—_gravity_, and _good -humoured impudence_. To give the first, draw the brim of the hat so far -over the eyes that they shall be quite concealed. The second is produced -by the hat being thrown quite back. The third by a prim _horizontal_ -set, covering equally all parts of the head; and the fourth will not be -easily mistaken wherever an _extravagant cock_ on either side is brought -full into view. These are undoubtedly all _extreme_ habits, and seldom -pushed to the extent here described; yet a slight inclination to either -position may, under circumstances, have a very good effect. - -There is another bad custom that ought to be noticed, which I shall do -by first observing, that a hat was intended solely to keep the head -_dry_—ON which it should be worn; but many seem to differ from this -opinion, using it as a sort of NIGHT-CAP wherein is thrust head, ears, -and all. This is a most slovenly practice, as well as a dangerous one, -inasmuch as it tends to keep the head in a continual and _forced_ state -of perspiration, rendering a liability to “_take cold_,” every time the -hat is removed. Yet even this habit is not so bad as sticking the hat on -the _back_ of the head, which, of all others, is the most general, and -carries with it the greatest impropriety, because such a position not -only destroys the shape, but by lodging on the coat collar, the hind -part, from _friction_, becomes greasy, and the binding is always in a -state of raggedness; added to these disadvantages, a most ridiculous -effect is produced by the practice, that is, the head in _appearance_ is -converted into a sort of _peg_, AGAINST which the hat seems to _hang_, -instead of being placed _upon_. A man who indulges in so bad a custom, -should at least preserve a _consistency_ in his dress by walking “slip -shoed,” breeches knees open, and without braces, stockings down, -waistcoat unbuttoned, cravat half tied, one arm only in his coat sleeve, -and at least a six months’ uncombed crop of hair about his pericranium; -here he would be of a piece; and grotesque as such a figure must appear, -by a general adoption of these “captivating negligencies,” there is no -greater inconsistency in the whole catalogue than that of wearing a hat -on the _back part_ of the head. - -As to the _form_ of a hat, and what is best for _this face_ or _that -person_, there is more in it than what is generally supposed, and a -great deal might be said on the subject; but to talk of a _standard -fashion_ is absurd in the extreme, in proof of which it need only be -observed, that if very large hats were adopted, a thin man of five feet -high, would, by the wearing, become as complete a caricature, as a -twenty stone man of six feet would by wearing a very small one. The best -fashion a man can follow in a hat is that which best becomes him, and -various as heads, faces, and persons may be, all things are now -accomplished (so far as a hat is concerned) that can either _fit_ the -one or ornament the other, - - By the Head’s sincere friend, - - and well-wisher, - - R. L. - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - _Furs used in a Hat of fine quality, according to the present improved - system of making, their proportions, value, cost of manufacture, &c. - &c._ - - - FOR THE BODY. - - s. d. per oz. s. d. - 4 oz. of seasoned coney wool, 1 0 .. 4 0 - ½ oz. red wool 2 4 .. 1 2 - ¼ oz. of silk 0 9 .. 0 4½ - - FOR THE COVERING. - - s. d. per oz. s. d. - 1 oz. of prime seasoned beaver 8 6[4] .. 8 6 - Journeyman’s wages for making[5] 3 6 - Dyeing 0 8 - Stiffening, finishing, and picking 1 8 - Cost of lining, finding, band, and box 2 6 - Sewing in of ditto 0 6 - ————— - £1 2 10½ - -Footnote 4: - - No hat can be good, or well covered, with less than one ounce of prime - beaver; and, small as the quantity is, there was a time when - journeymen makers (catching the custom of their betters, and by way of - tythe) thought it no sin to appropriate a part of this material to - their _own use_; but, for the credit of the _trade_ be it said, the - practice is long since abolished, and a man attempting it at the - present day would be scouted from the factory where he worked, by - every honest journeyman therein. - -Footnote 5: - - The average week’s work of a _maker_ is about ten hats; that of a - _finisher_, from five to six dozen. - -Such is the cost of materials and labour at the present period; it is -true that the above scale is drawn from “credit prices;” but let every -part of a manufacturing concern be carried on for money only, which is -rarely the case, still the deduction from the _whole_ cannot be more -than 7½ per cent. All substitutes for the above _materials_ are -decidedly condemned; nor can their _quantities_, as here stated, be -lessened, without injury to the remainder. Here then is sufficient -evidence that a fine hat must, under the most favourable circumstances, -stand the manufacturer in upwards of twenty-one shillings, yet many -_assume_ a capability of _retailing_ such an article at less even than -the charge of manufacture. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - -_A General List of_ Lloyd’s _Fashionable Hats, invented, manufactured, - and sold by him, at his Warehouse, 92, Newgate-Street, London._ - - The John Bull │ The Bang-up - The Wellington │ The Jolliffe - The Tandem │ Clericus - The Tally-Ho │ The Bon-Ton - The Shallow │ The Baronet - The Coburg │ The Four-in-Hand - The Marquis │ A Bit of Blood - The Eccentric │ The Baron - The Regent │ A Noble Lord - The Kent │ The New Dash - The Cumberland │ A Paris Beau - The Esquire │ The Brutus - The Vis-a-Vis │ The Exquisite - The Petersham │ The Irresistible - The Tilbury │ The Pic Nic - The Count │ The Viscount - The Medium │ And the Dandy. - - - CONCLUSION. - -If the foregoing treatise to be judged by the _letter_ and not the -_spirit_—have mercy reader. - -RULES FOR MEASURING A HAT.—Take the circumference on the _outside_, -where the band is fixed, in inches. The breadth of brim and depth of -crown as wanted. - - - ------------------------------------------------------ - - _Entered at Stationer’s Hall._ - - ------------------------------------------------------ - - - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - ● Transcriber’s Notes: - ○ The original caption for the illustration of hat styles was almost - illegible. It was replaced in the illustration by typed-in text in - a similar typeface. - ○ Missing or obscured punctuation was corrected. - ○ Typographical errors were silently corrected. - ○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only - when a predominant form was found in this book. - ○ Text in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_); text in - bold by “equal” signs (=bold=). - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Lloyd's Treatise on Hats, by Robert Lloyd - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LLOYD'S TREATISE ON HATS *** - -***** This file should be named 56103-0.txt or 56103-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/6/1/0/56103/ - -Produced by ellinora, Barry Abrahamsen and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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