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| author | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-02-07 19:43:14 -0800 |
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| committer | nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> | 2025-02-07 19:43:14 -0800 |
| commit | ad10fbbc0b6af22a39e0d0f28b482b76720935bc (patch) | |
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| parent | 5dd1459a11c135925535e14586f3a0577e3cfd5b (diff) | |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2b2de78 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #56061 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/56061) diff --git a/old/56061-h.zip b/old/56061-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index e94ffee..0000000 --- a/old/56061-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/56061-h/56061-h.htm b/old/56061-h/56061-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 3baf644..0000000 --- a/old/56061-h/56061-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5385 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> - -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> - <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> - <title> - The Project Gutenberg eBook of In Tamal Land, by Helen Bingham. - </title> - <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - -h1 {text-align: center; - clear: both; - margin-top: 6em; -} - -h2 {text-align: center; - clear: both; - margin-top: 4em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - font-size: 1.2em; -} - -p { margin-top: .75em; - text-align: left; - margin-bottom: .75em; -} - -hr { - width: 33%; - margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - margin-left: 33%; - margin-right: auto; - clear: both; -} - -hr.l15 { width: 15%; - margin-left: 42%; } - -.center { text-align: center; } - -.smcap { font-variant: small-caps; } - -.caption { - font-weight: bold; - margin-left: 15%; - margin-right: 15%; - text-align: center; - margin-bottom: 2em; -} - -.figcenter { - margin: auto; - text-align: center; - clear: both; -} - -.figleft { - float: left; - clear: left; - margin-left: 0; - margin-bottom: 1em; - margin-top: 1em; - margin-right: 1em; - padding: 0; - text-align: center; -} - -.flright { float: right; } - -.poetry-container { text-align: center; } - -.poem { - display: inline-block; - font-size: 95%; - margin-bottom: 1em; - text-align: left; -} - -@media handheld { - .poem { - display: block; - margin-left: 5%; - margin-right: 10%; - } - .flright { float: right; } -} - -.poem .stanza { - margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em; -} - -.poem p { - margin: 0; - padding-left: 3em; - text-indent: -3em; } - -.poem p.i2 { margin-left: 2em; } -.poem p.i4 { margin-left: 4em; } -.poem p.i5 { margin-left: 5em; } - -.p4 {margin-top: 4em;} -.p6 {margin-top: 6em;} - -.i2 { margin-left: 2em; } -.i4 { margin-left: 4em; } - -.b15 {font-size:1.5em;} -.s08 {font-size:.8em;} - -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - empty-cells: show; -} - -td {padding-left: 1em; - padding-right: 1em; -} - -.tdr { text-align: right; } - -.tnbox { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - margin-bottom: 8em; - margin-top: auto; - text-align: center; - border: 1px solid; - padding: 1em; - color: black; - background-color: #f6f2f2; - width: 25em; -} - </style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of In Tamal Land, by Helen Bingham - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: In Tamal Land - -Author: Helen Bingham - -Release Date: November 27, 2017 [EBook #56061] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN TAMAL LAND *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class="tnbox"> -<p class="center"><b>Transcriber's Note:</b></p> -<p>Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. -Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation in the original -document have been preserved.</p> -</div> - -<h1> -In Tamal Land -</h1> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="frontispiece" id="frontispiece"></a> -<img src="images/i-004.jpg" width="550" height="343" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Approaching Marin's Shores.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p class="b15 center p6"> -In Tamal Land -</p> - -<p class="s08 center p4"> -BY -</p> -<p class="center"> -HELEN BINGHAM -</p> - -<p class="center s08 p4"> -THE CALKINS PUBLISHING HOUSE<br /> -<span class='smcap'>San Francisco, U. S. A.</span> -</p> - -<p class="center p6"> -<span class="s08"><i>Copyrighted, 1906</i>,</span><br /> -<span class='smcap'>By Helen Bingham</span></p> - -<hr class="l15" /> -<p class="center p4"><i>All Rights Reserved</i></p> - -<h2> -DEDICATION -</h2> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<p> -To the chum of my childhood, -</p> -<p> -The friend of my youth, -</p> -<p> -And my kindred soul— -</p> -<p class="i2"> - My Mother— -</p> -<p> -This volume is lovingly dedicated. -</p> -</div></div></div> - -<h2> -INTRODUCTION -</h2> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<p> -A secret nook in a pleasant land, -</p> -<p> -Whose groves the frolic fairies planned, -</p> -<p> -Where arches green, the livelong day, -</p> -<p> -Echo the blackbird's roundelay, -</p> -<p> -And vulgar feet have never trod -</p> -<p> -Spots that are sacred to thought and God. -</p> -<p class="flright"> -—<i>Emerson.</i> -</p> -</div></div></div> - -<h2> -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS -</h2> - -<table summary="List of Illustrations"> - <tr> - <td>Approaching Marin's Shores</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#frontispiece">Frontispiece</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Title sketch</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo1a">1</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>One of the Commodious Ferry-boats</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo1b">1</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Ferry Landing</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo2">2</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Main Street, Sausalito</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo3">3</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Sausalito Residences</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo4">4</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Club House, Sausalito</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo5">5</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Son of the Renowned Captain</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo7">7</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Typical Roadway</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo8">8</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Reminder of Rhineland</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo9">9</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Hillside Road</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo10">10</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Hillside Gardening</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo11">11</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>O'Connell's Seat</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo12">12</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Daniel O'Connell</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo13">13</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Windblown Tree</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo14">14</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Fissures of the Cliffs</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo15">15</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Nearing the Point</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo16">16</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Fishing Boats</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo17">17</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Derrick Wharf</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo19">19</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Point Bonita Lighthouse</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo20">20</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Overlooking the Fog</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo21">21</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The First Fog Signal</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo22">22</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Angel Island</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo23a">23</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Departing Day</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo23b">23</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Mt. Tamalpais from Mill Valley</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo25">25</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Powerhouse</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo27a">27</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>An Electric Train</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo27b">27</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Relic of the Past</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo28">28</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Mill Valley Depot</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo29">29</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Three Wells</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo30a">30</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Cascade</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo30b">30</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Old Mill</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo31">31</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Like the Mikado's Realm</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo33">33</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Reminder of the Toriis</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo34">34</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Some of the Quaint Lamps</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo35a">35</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Dining-room at Miyajima</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo35b">35</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Creek in Summer</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo36a">36</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>In the Hayfield</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo36b">36</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>"The Outdoor-Art Club"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo37">37</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>What the Club is Trying to Prevent</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo38">38</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Mountain Train</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo39a">39</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Through the Redwoods</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo39b">39</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Turning the Innumerable Curves</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo40">40</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>From the Crest of Mt. Tamalpais</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo41">41</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Marine Observatory</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo43a">43</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Tavern</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo43b">43</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Bow-Knot</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo44">44</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Wireless Telegraphy Station</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo45">45</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Bolinas Stage</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo46a">46</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Bolinas Bay</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo46b">46</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Glimpse of Bolinas</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo47">47</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Flag Staff Inn</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo48">48</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Sand Dunes</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo49a">49</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Breakers</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo49b">49</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Oil Well</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo50a">50</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Where Don Gregorio Died</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo50b">50</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Thad Welch's Cabin</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo51">51</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Duxbury Reef</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo53">53</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Lone Tree</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo54a">54</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Thad Welch at Work</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo54b">54</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Among the Redwoods</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo55">55</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Primal Solitudes</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo56">56</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>In the Canyon</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo57">57</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Angel Island from the Mainland</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo58">58</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Tiburon Depot</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo59">59</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>"The Tropic Bird"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo60">60</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>In the Cove</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo61">61</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Belvedere</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo63">63</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>An Artistic Church</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo64">64</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Unloading Codfish</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo65">65</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Drying Codfish</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo66">66</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>San Quentin</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo67">67</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Point San Quentin as seen from Mt. Tamalpais</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo68">68</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Lagunitas, San Rafael's Water Supply</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo69">69</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Trolling on the Lake</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo70">70</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Marin Landscape. (From the original by Thad Welch)</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo71">71</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Mt. Tamalpais from Ross Valley</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo73">73</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Home in Ross Valley</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo74">74</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Shaded Avenue</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo75">75</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Dress Parade, Hitchcock Military Academy</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo76">76</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Theological Seminary, San Anselmo</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo77a">77</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Dominican Convent</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo77b">77</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Court House, San Rafael</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo78">78</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Escalle Vineyard and Winery</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo79">79</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>"Fairhills"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo81">81</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Fourth Street, San Rafael</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo82">82</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Entrance to Hotel Rafael</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo83a">83</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Hotel Rafael</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo83b">83</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Late Owner of the Olompali</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo84">84</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Last of the Race</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo85">85</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Wood Interior</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo87a">87</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Summer in the Redwoods</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo87b">87</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Charming Drive</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo88">88</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Browsing</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo89">89</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Characteristic Stream</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo90">90</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Relics from a Shell Mound</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo91">91</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Haying Time</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo92">92</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Apple Picking in Marin</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo93">93</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Cheese Industry</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo95">95</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Young Heron</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo96">96</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>On the Marsh</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo97">97</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>R. H. Hotaling's Residence on "Sleepy Hollow Ranch"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo98">98</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Taxidermist of Marin</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo99">99</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Quail's Nest</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo100">100</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Humming Bird's Nest</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo101a">101</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Little Songsters</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo101b">101</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Sportsman</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo102">102</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Near to Nature's Heart</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo103">103</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Bend in the Road</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo105">105</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>One of the Sparkling Lakes</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo106">106</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Shafter Lake</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo107">107</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>On the Shore of Shafter Lake</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo108">108</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Entering Bear Valley</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo109a">109</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Country Club</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo109b">109</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Among the Ferns</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo110">110</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>At the Trough</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo111">111</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Nearing Tomales Bay</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo113">113</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Tomales Bay</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo114">114</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Church of the Assumption, Tomales</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo115">115</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Feeding Time</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo116">116</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Chicken Ranches in Marin</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo117">117</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Defacing Nature</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo119">119</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Dairying on the Edge of the Pacific</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo120">120</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>In the Pasture</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo121">121</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Going Home</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo122">122</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Marin Ranch</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo123">123</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Sir Francis Drake</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo125">125</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Bay of Solitude</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo126">126</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Drake's Bay</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo127">127</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Bit of Rocky Shore</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo128">128</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Marin Cows</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo129">129</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Drake's Cross</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo131">131</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>A Rugged Coast Line</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo132">132</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Point Reyes</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo133">133</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Point Reyes Life Saving Station</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo134">134</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Plowing in October</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo135">135</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>"The Warrior Queen"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo137">137</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Lighthouse</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo138a">138</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Cloud-Hosts</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo138b">138</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Where the Waves Break</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo139">139</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Glory of the Dying Day</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo140">140</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<div class="figcenter p6"><a name="illo1a" id="illo1a" /> -<img src="images/titlesketch.jpg" width="550" height="226" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><i>In Tamal Land</i> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -To the average tourist there are few states in the Union -which offer more attractions than California. -</p> - -<p> -Though its mild climate, fertile valleys, and scenic -beauties are counted among its chief assets, still they are not -its sole possessions, for, linked to the present great commercial -activity of the Pacific Coast is a chain of picturesque events, -clustered about its birth and infancy, which lends to the whole -a peculiar charm, giving it a distinct individuality. -</p> - -<div class="figleft"><a name="illo1b" id="illo1b" /> -<img src="images/i-015.jpg" width="300" height="221" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>One of the Commodious Ferry Boats.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -While the footsteps of the Spaniards grow fainter and -fainter as they glide away into the corridors of time, and their -traces become gradually assimilated by the progressive and oft-times -aggressive Yankee, nevertheless the echoes from that -former non-progressive splendor float back to us, and history re-animates -the -old adobes, -breathing into -a few secluded -valleys -the spirit of -the past. -</p> - -<p> -As the seat -of historic interest, -Monterey -has received -more -homage than any other county on the Slope. Tourists flock to -pay court to her old landmarks, writers eagerly pore over her -time-worn archives, and the wielders of the brush have congregated -in such numbers as to form an artists' colony. Though -Monterey is undoubtedly justified in carrying off the palm for -her many attractions, yet it is but fair that she should divide -the honors of the past with her sister counties, being content to -reign as Sovereign of the Coast. -</p> - -<p> -Skirting the Northern end of San Francisco Bay is one of -the smallest and most picturesque counties of California. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo2" id="illo2" /> -<img src="images/i-016.jpg" width="298" height="177" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Ferry Landing.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -As a tiny gem in a coronet appears insignificant when contrasted -with the other stones in point of size, but when viewed -alone is admired for the diversity of its coloring and rare -quality, so Marin, when measured by acres, appears insignificant, -but when estimated by the beauty and diversity of its -scenery stands unique, apart, alone. -</p> - -<p> -As we approach Marin's shores, after a half hour's ride -across the Bay on a commodious modern ferry-boat, our first -thought on nearing the land is its remarkable similarity to an -Italian settlement. For surely this town, situated on the steep -hillside, is a counterpart of many an Italian hamlet, which, -clinging to some abrupt cliff or bluff, seems to defy nature by -its occupancy. -</p> - -<p> -The clear blue of the California sky overhead but added -to the illusion, although upon closer approach it was gradually -dispelled by the modern American houses in place of quaint -Italian structures. -</p> - -<p> -Leaving the Depot we passed an attractive little park, well -kept and gay with flowers, and a walk of a few moments -brought us to the most historic part of Sausalito. -</p> - -<p> -Though not in the section designated "old Sausalito," still -it is the oldest in memories, for it was here that John Read, -the first English-speaking settler in the County, came in 1826, -erecting near the beach a crude board house. While waiting -for a land grant from the Mexican Government, Read lived -here. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo3" id="illo3" /> -<img src="images/i-017.jpg" width="331" height="252" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Main Street, Sausalito.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Being of an ingenious turn of mind and having a practical -nautical knowledge, Read set about constructing a sail boat, -which he subsequently plied between Sausalito and San Francisco, -carrying passengers. This was the first ferry boat on -the Bay and when we contrast the little sailboat making its -periodical trips across a solitary Bay with the present ferry -craft, passing on their route ships from every quarter of the -globe, a mere three score of years seems short for such a -change, and proves what can be accomplished by Anglo-Saxon -energy and enterprise. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo4" id="illo4" /> -<img src="images/i-018.jpg" width="332" height="189" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Sausalito Residences.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Upon receiving his grant for the Rancho Corte Madera del -Presidio, lying north of Sausalito, Mr. Read moved there in -1834. -</p> - -<p> -A few hundred yards back from the beach, in what is now -called "Wildwood Glen," was the first adobe house built in -Sausalito. Only a few stones now mark the spot on which it -stood, and a solitary pear-tree, gnarled and knotted with age -stands a living witness of peace and plenty and decay. For it -was in the bountiful days preceding the great influx into -California by the Americans that Captain William Antonio -Richardson, an Englishman but lately arrived on a whaling -vessel from "the Downs," made application, and was given a -grant to the Sausalito Rancho by the Mexican Government. He -soon began building his adobe house and with the aid of the -Indians it was rapidly completed. In the spring of 1836 he -brought his beautiful young wife, formerly the Senorita Maria -Antonia Martinez, to their new abode. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo5" id="illo5" /> -<img src="images/i-019.jpg" width="550" height="357" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Club House, Sausalito.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The Senora Maria Antonio was the daughter of Ygnacio -Martinez, for whom the present town of that name in Contra -Costa County was called. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo7" id="illo7" /> -<img src="images/i-021.jpg" width="246" height="303" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Son of the Renowned Captain.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Of all the -dreams of -happiness -and love -that filled -the minds of -the youthful -pair on that -fair spring -morning, as -in a small -boat they -were rowed -across the -Bay, by Indians, -to -their new -home, we can -not judge, -but I am sure -their dreams, -however fond, were realized, for it is recorded somewhere -that joy and peace reigned supreme in the little adobe. -</p> - -<p> -However this may be, a young orchard was set out, cattle -were bought and tended and the Senora's clever hands soon -had the walls laden with the sweetest of Castilian roses. A -stream flowed by the house on its way to the Bay, and on -many a bright morning the Indian women of the household -might be seen bending low over the stones washing the family -linen. The stream has long since disappeared, as also the -remnant of the race that washed in its waters—one through -an unaccountable law of nature, the other through the rapacious -greed and oppression of the Anglo-Saxon race. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo8" id="illo8" /> -<img src="images/i-022.jpg" width="327" height="275" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Typical Roadway.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Owing to the abundance of pure, fresh water found on the -Sausalito Rancho it was shipped to Yerba Buena and the -Presidio. The water was conducted by spouts to the beach, -thence into a tank on a scow, which conveyed it across the -Bay. This mode of supplying San Francisco with water -lasted for some time, until with the increase of population this -primitive means was abandoned. -</p> - -<p> -A tule boat operated by Indians regularly crossed the -Bay for the mail, many of the Indians evincing considerable -skill in navigation under the tutelage of their able master. -</p> - -<p> -Standing beside a heap of stones—historic stones because -the sole remnant of this abode of the past—my glance wandered -to the blue water of the Bay which laps the edge of the glen -and stretches over to the distant hills which descend in gentle -undulations to this beautiful shimmering sheet of blue. And -this Bay, too, speaks of the second settler of Marin, for it -bears his name. -</p> - -<p> -As my glance now fell on the enchanting little glen with its -tangled woodland and steep declivities, and then to the fair -stretches of land that -lay beyond, a sigh of -sadness escaped from -me unawares. I thought -how all this lovely region, -this Rancho Sausalito, -comprising 19,500 -acres, as varied and -beautiful as ever nature -put her seal to, -this land, which rightfully -belonged to Richardson -and his descendants, -had been -appropriated by others -through pretext of law -and what not, until the -heirs of the pioneer can -call but a small building -lot their own. Thus -we ever find that -"man's inhumanity to man makes countless thousands mourn." -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo9" id="illo9" /> -<img src="images/i-023.jpg" width="225" height="350" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Reminder of Rhineland.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -But the son of the renowned Captain, a hale, hearty old -gentleman, with a pleasant Spanish accent, speaks with calm -equanimity of their loss of fortune, showing not a vestige of -ill-will toward the transgressors, and practicing in full the true -Christian spirit so often lauded but rarely seen. -</p> - -<p> -"Sometimes, it is true, it makes me sad," he once replied, in -answer to my queries, "to think of all the Rancho being gone. -As a boy I used to ride, chasing the cattle, climbing the steep -mountain sides followed by our vaqueros ... and how wild it -was then and so beautiful—so beautiful!" Thus the heir to -all these acres would extol their beauty without more reproach -than that it sometimes made him sad. -</p> - -<p> -Ascending the glen by a winding country road, shadowed -by trees and shrubs, it was not long before we reached a small, -low shingled cottage nestled deep in the shade of tall bays -and buckeyes. A neat sign over the door bearing the inscription -"O'Connell Glen," met our gaze, and then we knew that -this little cottage, with its wealth of solitude and humble exterior, -was the former home of the poet, Daniel O'Connell. For -it was in this rural retreat that O'Connell, with his family, -spent many busy, imaginative years. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo10" id="illo10" /> -<img src="images/i-024.jpg" width="330" height="219" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Hillside Road.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -A bohemian of the truest kind, he delighted in what Marin -had to offer. With a stout stick, and accompanied by his -daughters, he would often be seen sallying forth from his rustic -lodge to tramp over hills and through canyons, exploring the -apparently inaccessible, viewing and absorbing the wondrous -beauty of woodland fastnesses, airy heights, and rugged cliffs. -Feeling the very pulse of nature, his poems were the embodiment -of all he had seen and felt, delighting the reader with their subtle -charm and graceful imagery, which were peculiarly the -author's own. -</p> - -<p> -Leaving his favorite retreat and last abode, for it was here -in 1899 that the poet breathed his last, a short walk around the -bend of the hill brought us to another spot, sacred to the -memory of the poet. This is the O'Connell monument which, -as the inscription tells us, was erected by his sorrowing friends. -The monument is in the form of a granite seat, some fifteen -feet in length, fashioned in a graceful, curving crescent. Placed -on the bank above the roadway, it is surrounded by great masses -of bright-colored flowers, and approached by a few stone steps. -The floor is of small, inlaid stones, in the center of which a three-leaf -Shamrock proclaims the nationality of the poet. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo11" id="illo11" /> -<img src="images/i-025.jpg" width="329" height="198" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Hillside Gardening.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Besides the name he made for himself, O'Connell came of -illustrious ancestors, being the son of a distinguished lawyer, -Charles O'Connell, and grand-nephew of the great Irish patriot, -Daniel O'Connell. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo12" id="illo12" /> -<img src="images/i-026.jpg" width="334" height="282" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>O'Connell's Seat.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -On the back of the seat are inscribed these lines, written by -the poet but ten days before his fatal illness, and prophetic of -the long journey he was so soon to take, where, away from the -cares and turmoil of this world, his soul could solve its -remaining problems: -</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<p> -I have a Castle of Silence, flanked by a lofty keep, -</p> -<p> -And across the drawbridge lieth the lovely chamber of sleep; -</p> -<p> -Its walls are draped in legends woven in threads of gold. -</p> -<p> -Legends beloved in dreamland, in the tranquil days of old. -</p> - -</div><div class="stanza"> -<p> -Here lies the Princess sleeping in the palace, solemn and still, -</p> -<p> -And knight and countess slumber; and even the noisy rill -</p> -<p> -That flowed by the ancient tower, has passed on its way to the sea, -</p> -<p> -And the deer are asleep in the forest, and the birds are asleep in the tree. -</p> - -</div><div class="stanza"> -<p> -And I in my Castle of Silence, in my chamber of sleep, lie down. -</p> -<p> -Like the far-off murmur of forests come the turbulent echoes of town. -</p> -<p> -And the wrangling tongues about me have now no power to keep -</p> -<p> -My soul from the solace exceeding the blessed Nirvana of sleep. -</p> - -</div><div class="stanza"> -<p> -Lower the portcullis softly, sentries, placed on the wall; -</p> -<p> -Let shadows of quiet and silence on all my palace fall; -</p> -<p> -Softly draw the curtains.... Let the world labor and weep— -</p> -<p> -My soul is safe environed by the walls of my chamber of sleep. -</p> -</div></div></div> - - -<p> -Turning from these verses to rest on the granite seat, we -were confronted with a view of surpassing loveliness. Our -attention had been so engrossed in examining this monument -to genius that, until then, we had failed to perceive the -commanding situation it held. -</p> - -<p> -Below us stretched the peaceful waters of the Bay; on the -left Angel Island -and the Berkeley -hills, with old Diablo -dimly seen in the -distance; in front, -Alcatraz with its -warlike aspect lay -basking in the sun; -while to the right -the City, with its -many hills and pall -of smoke, could be -plainly discerned. -Truly a fitting spot -for this memorial to -genius. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo13" id="illo13" /> -<img src="images/i-027.jpg" width="259" height="350" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Daniel O'Connell.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Another attractive -feature of Sausalito, -besides its superb -marine view, is its -abundance of flowers. These not only grow in thick -profusion in the quaint hillside gardens, but are planted -beside the roadways, covering many an erstwhile bare -and unsightly bank with trailing vines, gay nasturtiums -and bright geraniums. There is something in the spirit -of this hillside gardening, this planting of sweet blossoms -for the public at large, that is very appealing in these days of -monopolistic greed, when everything that is worth while has a -fence around it. Thus it is refreshing to find a little spot in this -dollar-mad America where the citizens disinterestedly beautify -the public streets for the enjoyment of each passer-by. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo14" id="illo14" /> -<img src="images/i-028.jpg" width="329" height="228" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Wind-Blown Tree.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Owing to the hilly surface of Sausalito, driving is rather a -precarious enjoyment, but there is one drive which, with its superb -marine vistas, amply compensates for the apparent lack -of level roads. With the intention of taking this drive we -procured a team and were soon driven rapidly along the -boulevard skirting the water front, past the San Francisco -Yacht Club, with its medley of white sailboats and smaller -craft bobbing about in the water, and then through old Sausalito -nestled in the gulch. Thence ascending the hill, the -road wound around bend after bend with the Bay ever below -us at a distance of a few hundred feet. -</p> - -<p> -Arriving at a small, shingled lodge beside a gate through -which we passed into the reservation, we soon came upon the -Fort Baker Barracks in the hollow of the hills. It seems as if -Nature, in anticipation of man's conflict with his brother man, -had formed these hills on purpose for a fortification, so well -adapted do they seem for their present use. -</p> - -<p> -Beyond the Barracks, at the base of a cliff, we spied some -small, white buildings clustered on the rocks extending out into -the water. This proved to be Lime Point, and the buildings we -were approaching belong to the Government, constituting a -lighthouse- and fog-signal station. We found it to be one of the -many smaller stations that are distributed along the Coast. -There is a diminutive white light, and a steam fog whistle is -kept ever ready to send out its note of warning at the slightest -approach of the milky vapor which is a terror to the seamen. -</p> - -<p> -Lime Point is directly opposite Fort Point, the distance -being but seven-eighths of a mile, and forms the Northern point -of Golden Gate Strait. While the view from these rocks is -expansive, still it could not be called commanding, as the -Point is too near the sea level to give the height and majesty -requisite for an enchanting -ocean vista. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo15" id="illo15" /> -<img src="images/i-029.jpg" width="186" height="307" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Fissures of the Cliffs.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -As a pass is required -before one can go -through the reservation -we retraced our steps to -the Barracks and upon -receiving the passport -from the Sergeant Major, -proceeded on our way -up the steep, winding -road which leads out of -the Valley. Reaching -the summit, the road -continues its circuitous -route; now in sight -of the Bay and City, and -again in among the bare, -rolling hills. -</p> - -<p> -While descending into -a little valley we were -stopped by a number of heavily laden teams, lined up in the -middle of the road. Before we could question as to the delay, -a volley of shots rang out, resounding again and again in the -silent canyons, and a flapping red flag near by plainly denoted -that the soldiers were engaged in target practice. -</p> - -<p> -In reply to our query as to the length of time we should be -required to halt, a soldier on the team in front informed us that -sometimes one had to wait an hour or an hour and a half. Other -teams having lined up behind, a retreat was impossible, and the -prospect of a long wait in the hot sun was not very agreeable. -We learned that a new barracks was in the course of construction -below, in the valley at the head of the Rodeo Lagoon, -and these teams were laden with provisions for the men -stationed there. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo16" id="illo16" /> -<img src="images/i-030.jpg" width="330" height="253" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Nearing the Point.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Just as we had composed ourselves for the inevitable, -a brisk waving of red flags was seen in the Valley, followed by -the moving of the cavalcade in front; and, much to our satisfaction, -we soon left our pessimistic informer far in the rear. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo17" id="illo17" /> -<img src="images/i-031.jpg" width="441" height="330" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Fishing Boats.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -On the most southerly point of Marin a narrow rocky neck -of land extends some distance into the Ocean. At the base are -jagged rocks over which the sea surges ceaselessly, cutting arches -and miniature caves in the fissures of the cliffs. From this -rocky headland, which formerly was a menace and terror to -navigators, now streams a steady light, and the point erstwhile -spelling destruction now proves a blessing to vessels which are -guided safely into port by the aid of its welcome light. -This is Point Bonita and the Bonita Light, which, as we approached, -stood out clear in the afternoon sun. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo19" id="illo19" /> -<img src="images/i-033.jpg" width="330" height="253" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Derrick Wharf.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Stopping at the lighthouse keeper's dwelling, we proceeded -on foot to the Point, accompanied by the keeper. Pausing in -the narrow pathway, he drew our attention to a small derrick-wharf -for the tender, at the base of the steep cliff on which -we stood. This he explained was where the boat, which touches -here three times a week, lands provisions, oil, and fuel. -</p> - -<p> -"But, how," I asked in astonishment as I gazed down the -dizzy depth, "do you get them up here?" -</p> - -<p> -"Oh, that is very simply done," he responded; "we start -up the engine and they are hauled up the bluff on a tram." -</p> - -<p> -Owing to the perilous windings of the path around an -almost perpendicular cliff a small tunnel has been cut through -the solid rock. As we emerged from this tunnel the Lighthouse -confronted us only a few yards away. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo20" id="illo20" /> -<img src="images/i-034.jpg" width="300" height="217" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Point Bonita Lighthouse.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The tower containing the light is a square, brick structure -twenty-one feet in height, situated at the edge of the Point -at an elevation -of -one hundred -and -twenty-four -feet. -The Bonita -Light, -although -of second-class -rating, -is so -advantageously -situated that its fixed, white rays are visible seventeen -miles at sea. -</p> - -<p> -The first lighthouse was established here in 1855, the light -being placed in the picturesque old tower still standing higher -up on an adjoining promontory and now serving as a day -signal. The location was unsurpassed, they say, in clear -weather; but when the fog rolled in it was quickly seen that -a great mistake had been made in elevating the lamp, for -often when the light was entirely obscured by a fog bank, -the bluff below would be quite clear, so in 1877 the light was -removed to its present location. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo21" id="illo21" /> -<img src="images/i-035.jpg" width="327" height="185" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Overlooking the Fog.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -An old gun, now rusty, lying beside its gun-carriage on -the bluff, was the first fog signal established on the Pacific -Coast by the government. In foggy weather it was discharged -every hour and a half during day and night. -</p> - -<p> -When we contrast the present steam sirens, blowing five -blasts every thirty-five seconds, with the former primitive -means, we realize a little what scientists and inventors have -been doing these fifty years. -</p> - -<p> -The genial keeper, who is a second cousin of the late Colonel -Robert G. Ingersoll, showed us every nook and cranny in the -place, from the boilers, the lamp, and its appurtenances down -to the neat store-rooms and paint lockers. -</p> - -<p> -Though I have visited many fog-stations before, this one -surpassed all others in its perfect order and scrupulous cleanliness, -reminding one of a well regulated ship. So exactly was -every corner and space utilized, that, as Dickens once remarked -of a steam-packet, "everything was something else -than what it pretended to be." -</p> - -<p> -All the appliances of the Station are in duplicate. Thus, -if one siren becomes disabled, another immediately takes its -place; so with the boilers, etc. -</p> - -<p> -Retracing our steps to the mainland, we noted on the edge -of the cliff near the keeper's dwelling the life-saving station -whose crew do much effective work about these jagged headlands. -Bidding good-bye to the keeper, we turned our backs -on Bonita and started homeward. We had been so engrossed -with the Point and its environs as to be unconscious of the -flight of time, and, noting with surprise the waning afternoon, -we urged our horses to a brisk pace and sped rapidly -along the elevated roadway. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo22" id="illo22" /> -<img src="images/i-036.jpg" width="328" height="189" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The First Fog Signal.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The sun was slowly approaching the edge of the horizon, -and Bonita, still visible in the West, stood out a silhouette -against a brilliant sky. At its feet lay outstretched the gorgeously -illumined sea; some fleecy golden cloudlets, floating -over the Gate, seemed a soft shower of petals from the State's -fair emblem; while the mellow light of the departing day -still rested lovingly on the loftiest hilltops, and over on the -city side occasional windows reflected his glory, as with a -spot of glistening gold. To the southward the blue misty -tones of the Santa Cruz Mountains began to merge into their -robes of approaching night. -</p> - -<p> -Suddenly out upon the still air rang a deep boom! boom! -Angel Island was rendering her last tribute to the god of day. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo23a" id="illo23a" /> -<img src="images/i-037a.jpg" width="357" height="189" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Angel Island.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo23b" id="illo23b" /> -<img src="images/i-037b.jpg" width="353" height="176" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Departing Day.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Then there came to me those beautiful lines of our own -poet, Lowell Otus Reese: -</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<p> -A touch of night on the hill-tops gray; -</p> -<p> -A dusky hush on the quivering Bay; -</p> -<p> -A calm moon mounting the silent East— -</p> -<p> -White slave the day-god has released; -</p> -<p class="i4"> - Small, scattered clouds -</p> -<p class="i5"> - That seemed to wait -</p> -<p class="i4"> - Like sheets of fire -</p> -<p class="i5"> - O'er the Golden Gate. -</p> -<p> -And under Bonita, growing dim, -</p> -<p> -With a seeming pause on the ocean's rim, -</p> -<p> -Like a weary lab'rer, sinks the sun -</p> -<p> -To the booming crash of the sunset gun. -</p> - - -</div><div class="stanza"> -<p> -All over the long slopes grown with green, -</p> -<p> -With the white tents scattering in between, -</p> -<p> -The flickering camp-fires start to glow -</p> -<p> -In the groves of the fair Presidio; -</p> -<p class="i4"> - While the solemn chord -</p> -<p class="i5"> - Of the evening hymn -</p> -<p class="i4"> - Rolls over the Bay -</p> -<p class="i5"> - Through the twilight dim -</p> -<p> -As the flag comes down to an anthem grand, -</p> -<p> -The brave, old song of our native land, -</p> -<p> -And Angel Isle, when the song is done, -</p> -<p> -Booms out "Amen!" with its sunset gun. -</p> -</div></div></div> - -<p> -Although Marin County was first opened up by the advent -of the North Pacific Coast Railroad in 1875, it was not until -the transfer to the North Shore that the road was operated in -its present modern system. -</p> - -<p> -With the exception of the extreme North and East where -the trains are run by steam, the County is traversed by well -appointed electric trains which combine easy riding with quick -transit. -</p> - -<p> -This was the first electric line in California to be operated by -the third rail system, and it has proved satisfactory in every detail. -Owing to the danger of contact with the third rail, the -road is fenced on both sides, and the rail is concealed at stations. -</p> - -<p> -At the head of Richardson's Bay, and but a short distance -from Mill Valley, is situated the North Shore Powerhouse. -Here the power, which is transmitted from Colgate, over 150 -miles away, is stored. Should there be any accident and stoppage -to the power, electricity is generated at the Powerhouse -by steam, which is always kept in readiness. -</p> - -<p> -As I gazed at the three switches, each in its separate vault -(in order to be kept fire-proof) it was difficult to realize that -in the small wires I beheld were centered power to operate -trains, illuminate and run machinery and countless other -utilities. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo25" id="illo25" /> -<img src="images/i-039.jpg" width="550" height="350" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Mt. Tamalpais From Mill Valley.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -As this, the greatest motive power in the world to-day, -was long unknown except as an element of destruction, until -the man came who harnessed the lightning and made it do -man's work, so there are still undoubtedly other forces of nature -which but await the master mind to discover their utility. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo27a" id="illo27a" /> -<img src="images/i-041a.jpg" width="372" height="198" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Powerhouse.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -A short distance west of the Powerhouse, on a slightly -elevated mound, is an old orchard whose gnarled trees have -sheltered for a generation and more the yellow adobe walls -of the first settler of Marin. -</p> - -<p> -But the elements of nature with relentless fingers -have played about this relic of the past, until but a small vestige -is left to remind us of what has been. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo27b" id="illo27b" /> -<img src="images/i-041b.jpg" width="305" height="178" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>An Electric Train.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -When a grant to the Corte Madera del Presidio Rancho was -given to John Read he began building his home, and in order -to construct a large, commodious adobe, he erected a sawmill -in the vicinity, and there the lumber for his home was whipsawed. -</p> - -<p> -Thus, it is this mill, which is still standing in undisturbed -repose these many years, which gave the surrounding valley -its name. -</p> - -<p> -Read had barely finished his adobe when he died, and the -place subsequently passed into the hands of the boldest bandit -of Marin. -</p> - -<p> -The terror of the surrounding counties—whose very name -sent a chill even to the bravest heart—was Barnardino Garcia, -otherwise called "Three-fingered Jack." He possessed all the -daring and bravery of a dauntless marauder, and the anecdotes -of his bloody adventures form many a weird and ghostly tale -when told by the flickering firelight of a winter's night, sending -the listener to bed inwardly quaking, with eyes peering into -dark corners. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo28" id="illo28" /> -<img src="images/i-042.jpg" width="367" height="290" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Relic of the Past.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The most widely known of his crimes was committed -shortly after the raising of the Bear Flag at Sonoma, which -proclaimed the Golden West to be the Republic of California. -</p> - -<p> -The Bear Flag party being short of ammunition and a -rumor gaining circulation to the effect that General Vallejo -had a cache of powder stored on the Sotoyome Rancho near -the present town of Healdsburg, it was decided to send men -to procure some. Cowie and Fowler volunteered to go, -although the journey was known to be a perilous one; but the -need was great, and these pioneers considered it no risk. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo29" id="illo29" /> -<img src="images/i-043.jpg" width="366" height="224" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Mill Valley Depot.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -They were warned, however, to avoid the way through -Santa Rosa, and to confine their paths to the hills out of the -ken of Garcia and his band. -</p> - -<p> -Whether the Americans failed to heed the warning, or -whether Garcia's men discovered them in the hills, will never -be known. They were taken prisoners, under a pledge that -their lives would be spared, but were finally murdered with -great cruelty. -</p> - -<p> -When Cowie and Fowler did not return to Sonoma within -a reasonable time, great anxiety was felt in the little garrison. -</p> - -<p> -Finally a searching party was sent out, but it soon returned -with news of the murder. -</p> - -<p> -The Bear -Flag leaders -swore -revenge on -the murderers, -and -eventually -captured a -number of -Garcia's -band, although -he -himself escaped. -A fugitive from justice, he journeyed south, becoming -lieutenant to the famous desperado, Joaquin Murietta, only -to be subsequently shot -in 1853 by Captain -Harry Love's Rangers. -His hand of three fingers -was sent as a trophy to -the commandant. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo30a" id="illo30a" /> -<img src="images/i-044a.jpg" width="300" height="213" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Three Wells.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Thus ended the career -of this bold adventurer. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo30b" id="illo30b" /> -<img src="images/i-044b.jpg" width="300" height="451" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Cascade.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Though there are -many towns in Marin -which command a more -expansive vista, and -offer by their marine -situation greater diversity -in out-door sports, -still Mill Valley, nestling -at the base of Tamalpais, -has proved a delightful -summer retreat and -home center; for, dotted in the wooded canyons, beside the -streams, or in some sunny exposure may be found many -artistic dwellings which, while possessing the advantages of the -country, are within easy access of the city. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo31" id="illo31" /> -<img src="images/i-045.jpg" width="343" height="554" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Old Mill.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The most notable among the attractive residences is the -home of Mr. George T. Marsh. -</p> - -<p> -Stepping within the odd wooden gate, which reminds one -of the "Toriis," or sacred gates of Nikko, the stranger feels -that he has indeed touched a fairy wand, and been transported -to the heart of the Mikado's realm. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo33" id="illo33" /> -<img src="images/i-047.jpg" width="361" height="216" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Like the Mikado's Realm.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Liquid streams, spanned by fantastic miniature bridges on -whose banks dwarf shrubs of various kind abound; fish ponds -and islands; quaint metal lamps beside the roadway on their -low posts, that are unique by daylight and when lit add all the -witchery and charm of the floral isle; these and numerous -other features of the Orient come unexpectedly upon the -enchanted visitor, until he forgets the busy commercial activity -of the outer world, and is in fancy again wandering in the -grand old dreamy groves of Miyajima. -</p> - -<p> -Another spot deserving the attention of the visitor is the -quaint Club-House of the Out-Door Art Club. This Club has -been organized by the ladies of Mill Valley for the purpose -of preserving the natural beauties of the town and vicinity -and staying, if possible, the hand of those primitive beings -who, with ruthless vandalism, cut down and otherwise destroy -the most prized of our rural possessions, our noble trees. -</p> - -<p> -Much credit is due these energetic ladies in their worthy -endeavor to teach those who have "eyes that see not" the -wondrous beauties of Nature. -</p> - -<p> -Besides its own unique features, the chief attraction which -draws to this little burg tourists and travelers from all parts, -as by a magnet, is the fact that it is the starting point of the -Mill Valley and Mt. Tamalpais Scenic Railway. -</p> - -<p> -Leaving the station, the mountain train winds through -redwood groves, beside streams and pools, passing on its -route the Hotel Blithedale, founded many years ago by Dr. -Cushing as a sanitarium, so propitious to health is this sheltered, -sunny exposure. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo34" id="illo34" /> -<img src="images/i-048.jpg" width="366" height="275" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Reminder of the Toriis.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo35a" id="illo35a" /> -<img src="images/i-049a.jpg" width="371" height="287" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Some of the Quaint Lamps.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo35b" id="illo35b" /> -<img src="images/i-049b.jpg" width="353" height="279" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Dining Room at Miyajima.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The train is operated by a steam-traction engine which -combines the ordinary cog system with an additional contrivance -appropriate for turning curves. As the train gradually -climbs in its serpentine route, and chaparral takes the place of -redwood, the country below begins to unfold; towns appear -in miniature, and hills which on close approach have -distinct characteristics now merge into one another, forming -an unbroken mass which stretches west to the Pacific, -on whose sapphire bosom may frequently be seen the dim -outline of the Farallon Islands, while to the southward Point -San Pedro and the City are visible, and San Francisco Bay -with intricate windings can be seen to join San Pablo and -Suisun bays on the east. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo36a" id="illo36a" /> -<img src="images/i-050a.jpg" width="374" height="279" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Creek in Summer.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo36b" id="illo36b" /> -<img src="images/i-050b.jpg" width="369" height="317" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>In the Hay Field.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo37" id="illo37" /> -<img src="images/i-051.jpg" width="366" height="212" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Out-door Art Club.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -It requires many trips to fully appreciate and comprehend -the marvelous diversity of views spread before one, while -the variety of superb effects to be witnessed from this mountain -cannot be found in a single visit. -</p> - -<p> -To watch the wonderful radiance of sunrise when Apollo -mounts in his chariot of fire above the Berkeley hills, or to -see a billowy floor of fog, outspread before one, obscuring -the lower world and leaving naught save this mountain peak -unwrapped by the fog-mantle; and then to witness the pale -light of the moon marking a silver pathway on the Bay, and -casting grotesque shadows on the landscape; and these are but -a few of the beauties garnered here. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo38" id="illo38" /> -<img src="images/i-052.jpg" width="368" height="312" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>What the Club is Trying to Prevent.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The road which is known as "the crookedest in the world," -turns innumerable sharp curves, finally twisting into a double -bow-knot and, extricating itself, continues winding its way -up, stopping a few moments at West Point, where passengers -for Bolinas take the stage. -</p> - -<p> -Arriving at the railroad's destination, the Tavern, the -passengers alight to luncheon in its well-appointed dining-room, -or lounge on the spacious veranda, enjoying at ease the -superb views revealed below. -</p> - -<p> -But if the traveller be something of a pedestrian he will -take the zigzag, cleated steps which lead from the Tavern -to the top. -</p> - -<p> -Here the San Francisco -Examiner's Marine -Observatory is located, -whose telescope -is said to sight ships -seventy miles at sea. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo39a" id="illo39a" /> -<img src="images/i-053a.jpg" width="258" height="350" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Mountain Train.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -But this is not the -only walk on the Mountain. -Many trails wind -about its sides disclosing -shady nooks, a delightful -cool spring and -countless other surprises, -which are easily -reached owing to the -guidance of artistic -little signs which appear -at short distances -apart, while location rods are placed at intervals on the path -circling the Mountain, enabling the visitor to find the various -points of interest without any difficulty. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo39b" id="illo39b" /> -<img src="images/i-053b.jpg" width="300" height="216" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Through the Redwoods.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -A few hundred feet from the Tavern is located a Government -Weather -Bureau, -and in its -proximity -is to be -placed the -seismograph -now -being -made in -Strasburg, -Germany, -by order of the Weather Bureau Department in Washington. -The instrument is said to be on a more elaborate -plan than any in this country except the one in Washington, -D. C., of which this will be a counterpart. Some time -is required for its completion, so, presumably it will not be -installed and ready to receive earthquakes until early next -year. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo40" id="illo40" /> -<img src="images/i-054.jpg" width="367" height="286" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Turning Innumerable Curves.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Descending the mountain on the train to West Point, we -alighted and after lunching at the Inn, mounted the stage -which was bound for Bolinas. -</p> - -<p> -The air on these mountain slopes is most exhilarating, -and as we sped along down the gradually descending roadway, -the breath of azaleas was wafted on the breeze from the -canyons, while at each bend of the road the salt zephyrs from -the Ocean became more perceptible. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo41" id="illo41" /> -<img src="images/i-055.jpg" width="550" height="342" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>From the Crest of Mt. Tamalpais.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Leaving the Monarch of Marin we soon came in sight of -the white sand-spit with Dipsea, the new resort on the beach, -and the glorious Pacific stretching thousands of miles beyond -the horizon. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo43a" id="illo43a" /> -<img src="images/i-057a.jpg" width="368" height="219" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Tavern.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Alighting from the stage we embarked in a steam-launch -which glided rapidly across the Bolinas Lagoon. Steep, -massive hills encircle the Lagoon on the right, while on the -left, becoming more apparent at each glide of the launch, lies -Bolinas, the town, and our destination. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo43b" id="illo43b" /> -<img src="images/i-057b.jpg" width="300" height="206" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Marine Observatory.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Owing to its small size and remote location we -expected -the usual -hardships -which accrue -from -a country -hotel and -its numerous -incongruities; -imagine -our surprise -therefore, when arriving at this little town, which is a -stranger as yet to railroads, to find a cozy hostelry awaiting us. -</p> - -<p> -Though unpretentious in appearance, the Flag Staff Inn -proved as orderly and neat as -any of its English prototypes. -Whether it was due to the landlord's -being a Briton or not, I -can not say, but there was undoubtedly -an English atmosphere -about the place, and if -honest Mrs. Lupin or Mark -Tapley had issued from the -porch to welcome us, I should -not have been in the least surprised. -</p> - -<p> -West of the little settlement -of Bolinas a neck of land extends -for a mile and a half out -into the Ocean, the top forming -a mesa. Owing to the fogs -abounding in this region, it is -green almost the entire year and -makes splendid grazing, as in -fact does all the land in the -vicinity. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo44" id="illo44" /> -<img src="images/i-058.jpg" width="363" height="528" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Bow-Knot.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -At the end of the mesa, some oil prospecting was being -done, and at the time of our visit there was one shaft sunk. -Although there are numerous deposits of oil to be found in -and about these cliffs, the output thus far has not exceeded -a barrel a day. Yet who can tell what rich veins may lie -beneath this mesa. -</p> - -<p> -On Duxbury Reef, a succession of small rocks extending -farther out into the ocean, there is said to be found at low -tide gas escaping from the rocks, which, being ignited occasionally -by -fishermen, -does not become -extinguished -until -the tide rises. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo45" id="illo45" /> -<img src="images/i-059.jpg" width="279" height="423" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Wireless Telegraph Station.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -At the -other extremity -of -the town is -to me the -most interesting -section -of Bolinas, -for it -was here -that the first -settlement -was made. -The name -Bolinas—then -spelled -Baulinas—is -believed by -some to -signify -stormy -and untamed, -while others -accredit -it to -be the -name of -an Indian -girl. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo46a" id="illo46a" /> -<img src="images/i-060a.jpg" width="300" height="213" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Bolinas Stage.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Which is -correct -may never -be ascertained. Either is probable; owing to its situation -"stormy" may well apply, and as the Tamal Indians formerly -inhabited this region, and in fact spread over the entire -County, the last theory is equally feasible. To my mind they -are both correct, for might it not have been named for an -Indian maiden called Bolinas, whose nature was as stormy -and untamed as the tempests which often surge about these -headlands? -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo46b" id="illo46b" /> -<img src="images/i-060b.jpg" width="361" height="189" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Bolinas Bay.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -This Rancho Bolinas first belonged to Rafael Garcia, who -disposed of the grant to his brother-in-law, Gregorio Briones, -of whom tradition says there were few so honest, upright and -brave as this dignified son of Spain, who died respected and -beloved by all who knew him. -</p> - -<p> -It was in the days before the "Gringo" came, when peace -and plenty reigned throughout this land, and hospitality was -proverbial to every household, that Gregorio Briones settled -in Bolinas. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo47" id="illo47" /> -<img src="images/i-061.jpg" width="363" height="242" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Glimpse of Bolinas.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -To be a skillful horseman and expert vaquero was all that -was then required, for as cattle could live and thrive all the -year round on the hills, there was no necessity for making hay -for winter feed, or building stables for winter shelter; therefore, -with little labor requisite, the natural consequence was -the easy, careless life led by the Californians. Thus their -spare energies were devoted to horse-racing, dancing, gambling, -and kindred amusements. -</p> - -<p> -Horses roamed the hills untethered and a caballero's first -occupation in the morning was to catch a horse, saddle and -bridle it, and either use or keep it tied up at his door during -the day, ready for use at any moment, as both young and -old rarely went from one house to another, no matter how -short the distance, except on horseback. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo48" id="illo48" /> -<img src="images/i-062.jpg" width="367" height="295" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Flag Staff Inn.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -As to the riders themselves, there were probably no better -horsemen in the world than the native Californians. -</p> - -<p> -On a fair spring morning in the month of May, 1850, a -single horse, with two riders, might have been seen threading -its way up the steep mountain trail leading from Bolinas to -San Rafael. The bright, girlish face of the first rider peered -wistfully from beneath the soft folds of her mantilla, while -the young caballero, on the crupper behind, whispered to her -in those sweet, melodious tones unheard save from a liquid -Spanish tongue. Of the purport of their whispers we can but -judge, for on arriving at the Mission they were greeted by a -joyous peal of wedding bells. -</p> - -<p> -The groom was Francisco Sebrean, the bride the beautiful -Senorita Maria Briones, daughter of the pioneer. This was -the first marriage in Bolinas and the celebration which followed -their return to the Rancho was the most notable ever witnessed -in that region. Dancing, feasting, music and gayety continued -until the gray dawn appeared to touch the surrounding hilltops -and proclaim -the approach -of another -day. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo49a" id="illo49a" /> -<img src="images/i-063a.jpg" width="300" height="273" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Sand Dunes.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo49b" id="illo49b" /> -<img src="images/i-063b.jpg" width="368" height="217" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Breakers.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Stopping at -the home of -the only remaining -daughter of -Don Briones, -now a dignified, -delightful, -old lady, -with the -charming -manners and -graces of a true descendant of old Spain, we procured directions -and soon found the oldest house in Bolinas. Although this -was not the first built there, -it is the oldest standing, and -was occupied by the Briones -family, Don Gregorio dying -many years ago, while his -wife, the Senora Briones, -lived there until 1903, reaching -her one hundred and -seventh birthday—which -goes to prove that it is the -simple, natural life which -begets old age. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo50a" id="illo50a" /> -<img src="images/i-064a.jpg" width="250" height="339" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Oil Well.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -If one is a good pedestrian -and has a desire to get -acquainted with nature untamed -"without her hair -combed" he should take the -Lone Tree Trail leading from Bolinas over the hills, through -the canyons and along the ridges back to the starting point, -Mill Valley. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo50b" id="illo50b" /> -<img src="images/i-064b.jpg" width="373" height="220" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Where Don Gregorio Died.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo51" id="illo51" /> -<img src="images/i-065.jpg" width="348" height="546" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Thad Welch's Cabin.</span></p> -</div> - -<p> -In a little "Steep Ravine" amid the high hills, and but -a short distance from the Ocean and Bolinas, stands the solitary -cabin of the man who by the magic of his brush first -awoke the outer world to a realization of the beauties and -possibilities of this region. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo53" id="illo53" /> -<img src="images/i-067.jpg" width="371" height="220" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Duxbury Reef.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -With the hand of a master, Thad Welch caught the rare -effects abounding here, which have delighted and won the -admiration of all nature-lovers, and linked his name inseparably -with Marin. While at present residing in another -portion of the County, the cabin which he formerly occupied -here is in a state of neglect, but while his little abode may -perish, his pictures will live and be cherished in the ages -yet to come. -</p> - -<p> -Some distance from the Steep Ravine the trail descends -an abrupt, wooded hillside, at the foot of which lies the Redwood -Canyon. For this forest of giant redwoods, comprising -six hundred acres, negotiations were pending toward making -it a national reserve, but the efforts proved unsuccessful. Though -of smaller dimensions than the Calaveras Big Trees, these -redwoods gain by beauty of situation what they lack in size. -</p> - -<p> -The Canyon runs diagonally -with the sea coast and -has its rise in one of Tamalpais' -western ribs, from -which a railroad similar to -the Mount Tamalpais Railway -is under course of construction, -connecting the -Mountain with the Canyon. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo54a" id="illo54a" /> -<img src="images/i-068a.jpg" width="236" height="350" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Lone Tree.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Its present owners, -Messrs. Kent & Cushing, -intend to erect a hotel at -the terminus of the new -road, and the building, on -which it is said will be expended -some fifty or sixty -thousand dollars, will be -a fully -equipped, -sumptuous -modern -hostelry. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo54b" id="illo54b" /> -<img src="images/i-068b.jpg" width="300" height="297" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Thad Welch at Work.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -It is to -be hoped -that the -march of -civilization, -which -so often -leaves nature's -handiwork -crushed, -broken and -even obliterated, will spare this grand, majestic forest in which -beauty now reigns supreme. -</p> - -<p> -Bending low over the little stream which winds through this -canyon huge sprays of azaleas filled the air with their delicate -perfume; on the banks lacy wood warriors and the hardy -sword-ferns mingled in graceful profusion, while the flickering -sunlight filtering aslant through the tree tops fell on the transparent -hazel leaves lending a soft, green glint to a neighboring -pool which rippled every now and then by the action of numerous -trout -catching flies -on its surface. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo55" id="illo55" /> -<img src="images/i-069.jpg" width="300" height="290" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Among the Redwoods.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Wandering -beneath these -perennial -columns, -these huge -monoliths of -whose birth -there is no -record, one -feels as if -treading the -grandest of -cathedral -aisles, and that in truth "The groves were God's first temples" -and "Solitude is the veritable audience chamber of the -Creator." -</p> - -<p> -No echo follows our footsteps on the soft needles and oxalis -and save for the murmuring of the little stream and the occasional -calling of a mourning dove in the tree tops above there is -no sound. Here, alone in these solitudes, the higher self—the -soul—strikes off its shackles, and expands to the very infinitude -of things, through nature to the Infinite. -</p> - -<p> -Near the southeastern shores of Marin lies the largest and -most picturesque of the three islands which adorn San Francisco -Bay. Though lawfully a portion of Marin County, Angel -Island, separated from the mainland by Raccoon Straits, besides -being set aside as a Government reserve, is therefore seldom -classed with the County, and usually ranks with her sister -islands, Alcatraz and Yerba Buena. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo56" id="illo56" /> -<img src="images/i-070.jpg" width="332" height="450" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Primal Solitudes.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -But a sketch of Marin, however cursory, would be incomplete -without her southern isle, for besides the United States -Barracks, situated on the western part of the Island, there is -located in a northern cove the Federal quarantine station, that -most necessary adjunct of San Francisco, which prevents contagion -by quenching the pestilence often brought to our shores -from the Orient and South American ports. -</p> - -<p> -Besides its present significance the Island has another and -far older claim on our attention. -</p> - -<p> -In the summer of 1775, Juan de Ayala, a lieutenant of the -Royal Spanish Navy, was given a commission from Junipero -Serra and Bucareli, the Mexican Viceroy, to proceed to "the -arm of the sea" lying north of Monterey, which had been -twice viewed by the padres from the land, to ascertain if it were -a canal or bay, and make a survey of it. -</p> - -<p> -Pursuant to these instructions Ayala cautiously crept up -the Coast and on the ninth day sighted the narrow passage which -is now known the world over as the Golden Gate. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo57" id="illo57" /> -<img src="images/i-071.jpg" width="369" height="244" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>In the Canyon.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -A crude launch was sent to explore the opening, which was -found to be deep and without obstructions. By the time the -launch returned it had grown dark, nevertheless Ayala headed -for the Bay and on the night of August 5, 1775, the San Carlos -sailed in through the Strait, the first ship that ever passed the -pillared passage or entered what is now known as the Bay of -San Francisco. -</p> - -<p> -Having entered safely, Ayala moored his vessel just inside -the Bay, and the next morning, looking around him, selected an -island not far from the entrance as a convenient spot to make his -headquarters. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo58" id="illo58" /> -<img src="images/i-072.jpg" width="362" height="255" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Angel Island from the Mainland.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Upon examination, he found a suitable place for mooring -his vessel, also wood and water in abundance. This Island -was then named Nuestra Senora de Los Angeles, the appellation -which it still bears, though shortened to Angel -Island. -</p> - -<p> -On the mainland, directly across from the Island, lies -Tiburon, the ferry and terminus of the California Northwestern -Railroad. Besides the Company's shops, Tiburon consists -mainly of stores—in short all that is included in the usual -"Water Front." -</p> - -<p> -The most interesting object in Tiburon is on the road between -that place and Belvedere. This is none other than the remains -of a remarkable old hulk, now beached and converted into a -habitation. Besides its unique appearance, there is an interesting -tale connected with the Tropic Bird which is something -like the following: -</p> - -<p> -"Early in the year 1850 the good ship, Tropic Bird, Captain -Homans skipper, set sail from Gloucester, Mass., with a cargo -of general produce bound for the Golden Gate. On board was -a mixed crew, seafaring men and land lubbers, all having but -one hope, one idea—the far-famed gold fields of California. -A good true ship was the Tropic Bird and a good true man -her skipper, who had with him his brother. -</p> - -<p> -"One day is very much like another on a long ocean voyage,—when -the wind holds good and the weather is fair; but -there came a time when ominous murmurings, gathering force -each day, the echo of a mutinous discontent, reached the quick -ears of the young Captain and his brother. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo59" id="illo59" /> -<img src="images/i-073.jpg" width="368" height="229" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Tiburon Depot.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -"The cargo was a valuable one. They were on the high -seas. If the crew stood together against the two men they were -as nothing in their hands. -</p> - -<p> -"One night the cloud burst, there was a loud cry from the -first mate, and in a second every one was in the scrimmage. -</p> - -<p> -"The Captain rushed on deck. Though light, he was strong -and a famous wrestler. As soon as he appeared he was pounced -upon by the leader of the mutiny, called Dutch Dick, a big, -heavy, slouching fellow. With almost superhuman strength the -gallant Captain disarmed and stunned his foe after a heavy -tussle. -</p> - -<p> -"Men were moaning, yelling, dying on all sides, when suddenly -above this howling, cursing, blood-thirsty mob, there was a -bright, piercing flash, the sharp battalion crack, crack of -thunder. -</p> - -<p> -"The storm was on them. No time now for murder and -rapine. It was a battle against the elements. The Captain was -up roaring orders to his men. Those who could, obeyed and -worked with a will in the common danger. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo60" id="illo60" /> -<img src="images/i-074.jpg" width="366" height="222" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">"<span class='smcap'>The Tropic Bird.</span>" -</p> -</div> - -<p> -"Battered, tempest-torn, thrown hither and thither, a mere -cockle shell in the hands of God's elements, the staunch ship, -skilfully handled by her skipper, just managed to reach the -Golden Gate. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo61" id="illo61" /> -<img src="images/i-075.jpg" width="550" height="354" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>In the Cove.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -"Water-logged and mauled, the gallant Tropic Bird was -then unfit to further cope with the elements, and, after being -converted into a boarding house at the foot of Telegraph Hill -by her courageous Captain, she was later sold and beached at -Tiburon, where she now rests, her labors o'er, a worthy ship -with a peaceful, useful old age." -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo63" id="illo63" /> -<img src="images/i-077.jpg" width="371" height="284" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Belvedere.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Belvedere—beautiful Belvedere it is called, and with justice, -too; for who could view this thickly wooded hillside with its -charming villas without exclaiming Beautiful! These villas are -interspersed with graceful irregularity amid their leafy setting; -the sparkling water at their feet, gay in summer, with -house-boats, launches, yachts and other craft is resonant -of one theme, united in one chord—the care-free, happy, -guileless merriment which does more to erase the worry lines -begotten of cities than all the lotions ever prepared. And -this, in truth, is the veritable home of the sportsman, for across -the cove on the Tiburon side is situated the Corinthian Yacht -Club, famous in yachting annals. -</p> - -<p> -However gay this little cove may appear by day it is by -the pale light of the moon that Belvedere, like Venice, is -at her best; for the harsher lines of fact are mellowed, and -imagination gives the floating habitations a fairy aspect, while -the strains of the military band from the Island but lend to -the fantasy. -</p> - -<p> -On the opposite -side of Belvedere -is situated -one of the -most prosperous -industries conducted -in Marin -County. -</p> - -<p> -Nestling at -the base of the -cliffs on an extensive -wharf -built for the -purpose are the -buildings of the -Union Fish -Company. The -Company has -several fishing -stations in -Alaska, the -most extensive -of which are on the Shumagin and Popof Islands. A schooner -plying between the stations and this port brings the fish direct -to the fishery, where they are prepared for use. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo64" id="illo64" /> -<img src="images/i-078.jpg" width="300" height="428" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>An Artistic Church.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -At the time of our visit, the schooner, which had arrived -but a few days previously, was unloading and we were thus -fortunate enough to see the evolution of the codfish from the -time it leaves the hold of the ship until it is packed in neat -boxes ready for shipment. -</p> - -<p> -There were four hundred tons, or one hundred and seventy -thousand fish on the vessel. When one thinks that each fish -is caught by hook and line, the amount of work represented -seems enormous, but this is a mere bagatelle compared to the -process following. -</p> - -<p> -On leaving the hold they are first thrown into vats of brine -for rinsing, then loaded on small cars operated on a track and -run into the building; from thence they are laid on immense -racks in the sun to dry. If not for immediate shipment they -are stored in huge vats of brine. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo65" id="illo65" /> -<img src="images/i-079.jpg" width="371" height="300" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Unloading Codfish.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -In one large room there were many men at long tables, -engaged in skinning and boning the fish, and the celerity and -skill with which this was accomplished are marvelous to watch. -The refuse, which formerly was discarded as being useless, is now -utilized, the bones being made into a fertilizer, while the skins -are used for glue. -</p> - -<p> -There are seventy-five men employed in this establishment, -and the order and cleanliness of the place testify to its able -management. -</p> - -<p> -Owing to the inclemency of the weather during the winter -months, a steam-drying apparatus was in the course of construction -by which the fish can be dried with safety in the -rainy season. -</p> - -<p> -Leaving Tiburon, a short ride on the California Northwestern -Railway brought us to Greenbrae, a small station, uninteresting -in itself and unimportant save as the place from which -is reached that huge institution known as the state prison, San -Quentin. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo66" id="illo66" /> -<img src="images/i-080.jpg" width="372" height="296" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Drying Codfish.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Situated on Point San Quentin, which extends into upper -San Francisco Bay, with round guard towers perched on the -hill overlooking it, and a twenty-foot wall enclosing its eight -acres, the prison would seem impregnable and unpropitious -for an outbreak. -</p> - -<p> -The high somber buildings, which are of red brick, have been -added to and remodeled at intervals without any given plan, -and thus they form an irregular mass, interspersed with paved -courts and narrow cells. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo67" id="illo67" /> -<img src="images/i-081.jpg" width="366" height="241" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>San Quentin.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -A large, square plot is devoted to grass and flowers and -lends a cheering tone to the grim structures surrounding it. -One of these, a tall edifice with a succession of iron doors -opening on to small, long balconies, reached by narrow steps, is -called the Tanks. -</p> - -<p> -The average cell in this building is eight by twelve feet in -dimensions. In each of these five men are stowed—one could not -say accommodated for the narrow bunks placed in tiers, with a -still narrower passageway between, vividly suggested the over-crowded -lodging houses of Mulberry Bend, which Jacob Riis's -perseverance eradicated. -</p> - -<p> -In other buildings are cells, each of which is thirty by twenty-seven -feet, which contain twenty-six men, and one cell, of thirty-six -by twenty-one feet, lodges forty-eight convicts. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo68" id="illo68" /> -<img src="images/i-082.jpg" width="367" height="280" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Point San Quentin, as Seen from Mt. Tamalpais.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Though the system of ventilation is by means of flues -attached to the ceiling and door, still these rooms, in which are -herded individuals of all ages and classes, must become exceedingly -foul and unhealthful; while the opportunity which this -congregate system affords the prisoners for concocting plots -and outbreaks is undeniably assured. -</p> - -<p> -Of the prison industries the jute mill is of sole importance -to the outer world; all other products being consumed there. -Some eight hundred convicts labor at the mill, and five million -sacks are annually sent from the prison. -</p> - -<p> -There are paint and tin shops which supply all the tin-cups, -hand basins, pails, etc., used in the institution; tailor shops in -which are made all the clothes; carpenter shops for repairing -and furniture, while sixty pairs of shoes are turned out each -week from the boot shop. In the machine shops where are manufactured -all the needles used in sewing the jute bags half a -dozen excellent sewing machines were recently made. -</p> - -<p> -The extensive laundry where numerous Chinese convicts -are employed, is only one of the many evidences of cleanliness -witnessed in this institution, where order and system are apparent -to even the casual observer. But however orderly, systematic -and cleanly a prison may be kept, that is only one means -toward eliminating crime; for so long as we continue in -our congregate system of indiscriminate herding together of -all classes of offenders so long will our penitentiaries be hot-houses -for fostering crime. Instead of eliminating, we confirm; -instead of inciting decency and self-respect, we incite indecency -and rebellion. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo69" id="illo69" /> -<img src="images/i-083.jpg" width="368" height="216" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Lagunitas, San Rafael's Water Supply.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -At the time of our visit there were in San Quentin about -a dozen lads, the youngest but fourteen years of age, imprisoned -on charges of murder, who, had it not been for the supervision of -Warden Tompkins, would have been placed with the confirmed, -hardened criminals. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo70" id="illo70" /> -<img src="images/i-084.jpg" width="367" height="211" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Trolling on the Lake.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The State makes no provision for these offenders, and, unless -as in this instance they are separated by the individual action of -the Warden, they would ere now be proficient in the lore of crime. -</p> - -<p> -Crime is contagious, because thought is contagious. -</p> - -<p> -By this it is not meant that you and I, if we mix with criminals, -will become criminally inclined; because our ego—or -soul—not having any prenatal defect or susceptibility to crime -will be unresponsive to its influence. -</p> - -<p> -But to a criminal, whether he be a first offender or not, the -pernicious, indiscriminate companionship of fellow convicts who -suggest crime in its various distorted shapes to his abnormal, defective -mind, will plant seed-thoughts which thus sown thrive -and grow until we have the confirmed criminal. -</p> - -<p> -If a criminal is so receptive to suggestions of evil, and his -criminal capacity is so strengthened and fixed by the ideas and -emotions that he entertains, would not counter-suggestions have -just as potent an effect on the individual? -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo71" id="illo71" /> -<img src="images/i-085.jpg" width="550" height="336" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Marin Landscape.</span> -</p> - -<p class="caption"> -(From the Original by Thad Welch.) -</p> -</div> - -<p> -If, through -the channels -of thought, -he is susceptible -to maleficent -influences -will he -not be equally -responsive, -through the -same medium, -to the -beneficial? -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo73" id="illo73" /> -<img src="images/i-087.jpg" width="300" height="206" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Mt. Tamalpais from Ross Valley.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Granting this to be true, would it not be well to surround -the convict with all that stands for advancement, and through -intelligent education and suggestion awaken the latent good -which is in each individual, no matter how dormant and perverted -it may be? -</p> - -<p> -By education is not meant the rudimentary school education, -for many criminals are proficient in that, but the far more -important study of self-respect, honesty, veracity, industry, -unselfishness, and an appreciation and proper use of the things -that are. -</p> - -<p> -Methinks if with the contemplated enlargement to the prison -an educative, segregative, industrial system similar to that -adopted with such marked success in the Elmira Reformatory, -New York, were inculcated in our state prison there would be -less "recedivists"—fewer many-term offenders—and the fifteen -thousand dollars which it costs the State monthly to conduct -a prison would not be devoted to confirming criminals. -</p> - -<p> -Although Marin County is sparsely populated, owing to its -large tracts of hilly surface and consequent non-agricultural -facilities, still the towns within its borders are of average population, -the largest, San Rafael, comprising five thousand inhabitants. -</p> - -<p> -Besides being the county seat, San Rafael has the distinction -of having once been a mission settlement, and though the church -has long since mingled with the dust, the memory of its bygone -glory clings like the lichen of the remaining pear trees to the -spot which knew it in its prime; when to the clanging of the -mellow toned Spanish bells, the neofites, the children of the -soil, would kneel in meek devotion before the sacred altar -whose fires, like their lives, have long been quenched but appear -again, let us hope, in their successive higher spheres. -</p> - -<p> -Except in memories San Rafael is essentially modern. -</p> - -<p> -The factory and the loom form no part of its existence, and -with the exception of two brick kilns and a planing mill on -the outskirts, the town is without industries. -</p> - -<p> -Therefore, sheltered as it is by beautiful rolling hills on -three sides, with a mild climate and not even a street-car, as yet, -to disturb the stillness, San Rafael, like Ross Valley, is considered -an ideal spot for homes. -</p> - -<p> -Besides its handsome residences and long shaded avenues, -which afford much enjoyment for driving, San Rafael is noted -for its excellent schools. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo74" id="illo74" /> -<img src="images/i-088.jpg" width="355" height="241" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Home in Ross Valley.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -These not only consist of the splendid public schools, but -of private institutions, notably the Hitchcock and Mt. Tamalpais -Military Academies for boys, and the excellent Dominican Convent -for girls, besides the St. Vincent and Presbyterian orphan -asylums in the vicinity procure for the town the name of an -educational center. -</p> - -<p> -A short time ago, Mr. Andrew Carnegie donated to Marin's -county seat the sum of twenty-five thousand dollars for a public -library, the plans of which are now under consideration. -</p> - -<p> -That her residents are not less generous than the famous -philanthropist was forcibly shown on April 29, 1905, when Mr. -and Mrs. John F. Boyd transferred to the town some seventy -acres for a memorial park. The occasion of its dedication was -marked by able addresses from the "Wizard of the Plant -World," Mr. Luther Burbank, United States Judge W. W. -Morrow, and Judge Thomas J. Lennon. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo75" id="illo75" /> -<img src="images/i-089.jpg" width="369" height="242" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Shaded Avenue.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Abounding in natural verdure, artistically embellished and -converted into a perpetual pleasure ground, the Boyd -Memorial Park seems a fitting testimonial to the memory of -the sons of its donators. -</p> - -<p> -While noted as an educational center, San Rafael also has -the unique distinction of being the Gretna Green of the Coast; -and the blushing brides and happy grooms united here exceed -in numbers those from the erstwhile famous European village. -</p> - -<p> -To this charming little northern settlement from all the surrounding -counties and various parts of the state they come to -plight their troth, averaging, it is said, five a day; "and the best -and most remarkable part of it all is," Marin's genial Judge -informed me, "they turn out all right," and, really, I suppose -he ought to know. -</p> - -<p> -Notable among the many charming residences in San Rafael -is Fairhills, a summer home of Mr. A. W. Foster. -</p> - -<p> -It is surrounded by a stately garden where the choicest -plants abound in graceful profusion, blending one with another -in a perfect harmony of colors, while the majestic trees, spreading -a deep shade over the sloping velvety lawn, are reminiscent -of a Warwickshire landscape. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo76" id="illo76" /> -<img src="images/i-090.jpg" width="366" height="245" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Dress Parade, Hitchcock Military Academy.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo77a" id="illo77a" /> -<img src="images/i-091a.jpg" width="300" height="210" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Theological Seminary, San Anselmo.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -To the -westward, -wooded -hills—truly -fair -hills—with -their -ever -changing, -hazy tones, -are visible -from the -spacious -veranda, and the perpetual calmness and majesty of their lofty -slopes would seem to impart some of themselves to the beholder, -for, as Rousseau says, "Our meditations gain a character of -sublimity and grandeur proportioned to the objects around us." -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo77b" id="illo77b" /> -<img src="images/i-091b.jpg" width="300" height="213" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Dominican Convent.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Although essentially a resident settlement, the tourist will -find ample accommodations at Hotel Rafael, sometimes called -the "Del Monte of the North." Though of smaller dimensions, -and with less sumptuous appointments and surroundings than -the southern hostelry, Hotel Rafael, within easy access of the -City, is -more convenient -for those -who enjoy -the country, -yet -never -leave their -business -for its -sake. -</p> - -<p> -While the Assyrians, Babylonians, Greeks and later Gauls -and Romans were weaving the first few threads of our planet's -history in the old world, the aborigines of America roamed our -trackless, primeval forests, boundless save for two shimmering -oceans and a blue canopy overhead. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo78" id="illo78" /> -<img src="images/i-092.jpg" width="484" height="370" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Court House, San Rafael.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Fearless, they plunged into the thickets, swam the streams, -hunted game, caught the bear and bison, trapped the fowl, and -dauntlessly lived on in fear of neither nature, beast nor man—primitive—just -a savage, but possessing the fundamental requisites -from which all civilizations, sects, isms, or communities -have been evolved—a human being with a soul. -</p> - -<p> -Therefore the red man is to America what the cave man is -to Europe—the father of his country. -</p> - -<p> -In the history of our State the aborigines played an all-important -part, as the founding of the missions by the Friars -was with the avowed intention of reclaiming these children of -the wilderness, to teach them civilization. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo79" id="illo79" /> -<img src="images/i-093.jpg" width="596" height="374" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Escalle Vineyard and Winery.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo81" id="illo81" /> -<img src="images/i-095.jpg" width="362" height="320" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">"<span class='smcap'>Fairhills.</span>" -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The first mention made of the Indians in Marin County is -found in an old legend which states that about the time of the -erection of the Mission at San Francisco a party of Spaniards -crossed the Straits at what is now known as Lime Point and -traveled northward. It was late in the season, and they found -no streams of running water until they arrived at Olompali, -so named from a great and powerful tribe of Indians who dwelt -at this place, the Olompalis. Here they were kindly received -by the natives, and all their wants were supplied as far as it lay -in their power. The party was so well entertained that the leaders -decided to remain a fortnight and recruit their horses and -become thoroughly rested, preparatory to proceeding on their -arduous journey. In return for the kindness received, they -taught the Indians how to make adobe brick and construct a -house. -</p> - -<p> -That history corroborates this legend is shown in an old -chronicle by the biographer of Junipero Serra, Father Palou, -which says that "in 1776, after the Presidio and before the -Mission (in San Francisco) were established, an exploration of -the interior was organized as usual by sea (the bay), and land." -</p> - -<p> -Thus, in the northeast corner of the County, near Novato, -was built the first adobe house north of San Francisco Bay, -on the Olompali Rancho, owned by the late Dr. Burdell. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo82" id="illo82" /> -<img src="images/i-096.jpg" width="367" height="297" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Fourth Street, San Rafael.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The first adobe has long since disappeared, the last mention -found of it being a remark of General Vallejo's when, some -thirty years ago, on passing the Olompali Rancho and pointing to -a crumbling adobe he remarked to a companion, "That is over a -hundred years old." -</p> - -<p> -But the adobe that concerns us, the long, low, rambling adobe, -is still standing in good condition and occupied by Dr. Burdell's -family. This -was supposedly -the second -built and -is accredited to -have been constructed -by the -last chief of -the tribe, Camillo -Ynitia. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo83a" id="illo83a" /> -<img src="images/i-097a.jpg" width="300" height="223" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Entrance to Hotel Rafael.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Camillo, after -obtaining -three successive patents for the Rancho, first from Spain, then -from Mexico, and lastly from the United States, sold it for five -thousand dollars, which he was believed to have buried in the -vicinity. Refusing to divide the proceeds of the Rancho, and -furthermore to disclose the spot where the gold was buried, -Camillo was subsequently murdered by his brother. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo83b" id="illo83b" /> -<img src="images/i-097b.jpg" width="366" height="257" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Hotel Rafael.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The Olompali Rancho is beautifully situated, lying as it does -at the base of Mt. Olompali which is believed to be an extinct -volcano. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo84" id="illo84" /> -<img src="images/i-098.jpg" width="366" height="275" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Late Owner of the Olompali.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Mortars found five feet under ground in the river bed, -together with sand, mud, gravel, pebbles, and cement strata -on the mountain side, testify to volcanic action. -</p> - -<p> -From this mountain which formerly, in unknown ages -emitted hot, sulphuric gases from its bosom, now runs a clear -and limpid stream, a perpetual penance to nature for the havoc -it once wrought. -</p> - -<p> -When the Spaniards first visited the County, there were -said to be thirty distinct tribes of Indians, each with its separate -chief; while their language or dialect differed materially. -</p> - -<p> -That they lived on mussels, sturgeon, and game from the -marshes, is evidenced by the remains found in the huge shell -mounds distributed throughout the County. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo85" id="illo85" /> -<img src="images/i-099.jpg" width="339" height="545" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Last of the Race.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -What these mounds are and how they became so, is merely -a matter of conjecture, although the scientists of the University -of California and -Stanford are revealing -additional clues -from time to time as -new deposits are discovered. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo87a" id="illo87a" /> -<img src="images/i-101a.jpg" width="300" height="303" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Wood Interior.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -In the Marin -mounds have been -found mortars and -pestles, queer old -pipes, beads of wampum, -oyster picks, -skulls, and in many -instances entire skeletons, -while the -arrow-points testify to certain warlike propensities, although -on the whole they were said to be peaceful tribes. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo87b" id="illo87b" /> -<img src="images/i-101b.jpg" width="368" height="254" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Summer in the Redwoods.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The bows which they used with such celerity and skill were -uniquely fashioned; the cord consisting of the nerves taken from -a deer's back. The Marin Indians and in fact all the California -tribes, dwelt in small huts built of willows with tules or rushes, -and formed by taking a few poles, placing them in a circle, -and finally weaving them together to a conical point, giving, -when completed, the appearance of inverted baskets. -</p> - -<p> -They were usually constructed on the banks of streams, and, -being small, were easily warmed in winter. -</p> - -<p> -The aborigines' knowledge of the proper treatment of disease -was very limited. Roots and herbs were sometimes used -as remedies -but the -"sweat-house" -(temescal) -was the -principal -reliance in -desperate -cases. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo88" id="illo88" /> -<img src="images/i-102.jpg" width="300" height="234" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Charming Drive.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -One of -these sweat-houses -was -found on -the Nicasio -Rancheria, just over the Olompali Mountains. -</p> - -<p> -It consisted of a large circular excavation, covered with a -roof of boughs, plastered with mud, having a hole on one side -for an entrance, another in the roof to serve as a chimney. -</p> - -<p> -A fire having been lit in the center, the sick were placed -there to undergo a sweat bath for many hours, to be succeeded -by a plunge in the ice-cold waters of a neighboring stream. -</p> - -<p> -This treatment was their cure-all, and whether it killed or -relieved the patient depended upon the nature of his disease -and his constitution. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo89" id="illo89" /> -<img src="images/i-103.jpg" width="369" height="280" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Browsing.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -It seems but fitting that this County, which formerly was a -favorite rendezvous of the Indians, should derive its name from -a famous chief of the Lacatuit Indians, who frequented the -southern part of the Peninsula. -</p> - -<p> -Between the years 1815 and 1824 Chief Marin, aided by his -people, is said to have vanquished the Spaniards in several skirmishes -for supremacy. Being finally captured by his enemies, -and making his escape, Marin took shelter on a tiny island in -upper San Francisco Bay. This island being subsequently called -after him, communicated its name to the adjacent mainland. -</p> - -<p> -Falling into the hands of his foes a second time, he barely -escaped being put to death through the interference of the -priests at the Mission San Rafael. -</p> - -<p> -While surveying the County several years ago, Mr. Jacob -Leese had with him as assistants the old Indian chief, Marin, -and some of his followers. It became necessary for the surveyor -to establish an initial point on the top of Mt. Tamalpais, -and he wished Marin and some others to go up with him. To -this they made strong objections, stating that the top of the -Mountain was inhabited by evil spirits, and no one could go up -there and come back alive. After vainly trying to persuade them -to accompany him, Mr. Leese, finally decided to go up alone, -which he did, the Indians -prophesying that -they never expected to -see him again. -</p> - -<p> -On reaching the top -and accomplishing his -purpose, he was puzzled -to know how he could -convince the redskins of -having reached the summit. -To do this he -placed a large limb -across an old dead tree, -thus forming a cross -which could be seen in -the Valley below. He -then descended and -directed the attention of -the Indians to the cross. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo90" id="illo90" /> -<img src="images/i-104.jpg" width="300" height="407" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Characteristic Stream.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Prior to this, Marin had been considered by his followers -as the bravest man in the world. He therefore found that it -would never do for him to be afraid to attempt what a white -man had accomplished. -</p> - -<p> -Marin then determined, against the most earnest entreaties -of his men, to go up where the white man had been. Tearing -himself from his men he ascended the Mountain alone and -when there had to study how he should convince his followers -of the fact. -</p> - -<p> -Unwinding his outer blanket he suspended it on the arm -of Mr. Leese's cross, having done which, he descended the -Mountain. -</p> - -<p> -On seeing him without his garment, his followers concluded -that he had been robbed by the Devil himself; but pointing -out to them his blanket waving upon the cross, much joy -was expressed over his restoration to them as the bravest of -the brave. -</p> - -<p> -The foregoing tale is only one of many which illustrate the -profound superstitions prevailing among the Indians. -</p> - -<p> -Certain rocks and mountains were regarded as sacred, while -the grizzly was held in superstitious awe, nothing inducing -them to eat its flesh. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo91" id="illo91" /> -<img src="images/i-105.jpg" width="368" height="245" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Relics From a Shell Mound.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo92" id="illo92" /> -<img src="images/i-106.jpg" width="362" height="244" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Haying Time.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The idea of a future state was universal among the California -Indians, for as they expressed it, "as the moon died and came -to life again so man came to life after death," and they believed -that "the hearts of good chiefs went up to the sky and -were changed into stars to keep watch over their tribes on earth." -</p> - -<p> -A short distance from the Olompali Rancho is Novato, a small -town which until a few years ago possessed the largest apple -orchard in the world. -</p> - -<p> -At the present time the New York and the Novato French -cheese factories are its only noteworthy industries. The latter, -which is representative of a thriving, modern cheese-factory, is -conveniently located beside the California Northwestern Railway -on whose cars the local shipments are made twice each day. -</p> - -<p> -But this local trade is by no means the factory's sole outlet, -for besides supplying the Coast and the East as far as Iowa -(where another branch is located), cheese is exported to the -Hawaiian Islands, Japan, China and other foreign countries. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo93" id="illo93" /> -<img src="images/i-107.jpg" width="550" height="344" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Apple Picking in Marin.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -In this unpretentious building, in which but twelve men are -employed, fifty thousand five-pound cases of cheese are manufactured -a year, or a little more than four thousand (cases) a -month. In the spring from twelve hundred to fourteen hundred -pounds of cheese are manufactured each day. -</p> - -<p> -Besides its famous Circle Brand Breakfast Cheese, the Novato -French Cheese Factory manufactures large quantities of Fromage -de Brie, Neufch, Sierra, Fromage de Chanembert, Schlosskase -and Kummelkase. -</p> - -<p> -On a tiny island amid the marshes in this, the extreme northeastern -corner of Marin, is located the Miramonte Club. A -sportsman's club in every particular, it is very advantageously -situated, for around these northern marshes the game is very -plentiful and the sportsman is usually rewarded for his labor. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo95" id="illo95" /> -<img src="images/i-109.jpg" width="365" height="277" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Cheese Industry.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Besides the fowl for the larder, there are many other birds -about the marshes. In summer redwinged blackbirds, each with -its scarlet shoulder-patch, may frequently be seen, while the -herons with their long, ungainly legs are often visible wading -in the pools, or standing on some lonely reef, like solitary sentinels. -</p> - -<p> -In the winter, great flocks of little sandpipers frequent this -region; their white breasts gleaming in the sun in the course -of their graceful evolutions. Then there are the slender beaked -curlews which, like the heron, wade about the pools in search -of food. -</p> - -<p> -In the fall and winter the salt-water marshes have a peculiar -charm not only for the sportsmen who delight in the abounding -bird-life, but for the humble excursionists who, gunless, admire -the marvelous diversity of coloring displayed in the grotesquely -shaped marshland. -</p> - -<p> -For no other weed, grass or vine assumes a greater variety -of tints than the marsh vegetation, which from the dull russet -of summer changes to a combination of olive, purple, magenta, -copper, and violet, so harmoniously blended that, besides charming -the observer, it lures many a local artist from his studio in -town. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo96" id="illo96" /> -<img src="images/i-110.jpg" width="365" height="219" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Young Herons.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo97" id="illo97" /> -<img src="images/i-111.jpg" width="368" height="459" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>On the Marsh.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -In Marin the feathered songsters hold a unique place, for, -as the county is sparsely populated, possessing many wild, -secluded valleys, and unnumbered rolling hills covered with -virgin forests, it is but natural that the birds should congregate -in great numbers, reveling in the solitude which man invariably -destroys. -</p> - -<p> -If the traveler is interested in these woodland tenants, and -would learn something of their haunts and life, he should visit -one who knows them as Thoreau knew all the wild and untamed -things of nature. -</p> - -<p> -A short distance from Fairfax the San Geronimo Valley, -nestling among the hills, is a fitting location for this naturalist -and bird-lover. -</p> - -<p> -Though a taxidermist of much skill, Mr. Charles Allen is more -widely known among ornithologists by that little fairy creature -which makes its appearance in the early spring, known as -Allen's Hummingbird. -</p> - -<p> -Although similar in point of size, it is in its coloring that -Allen's Hummer may be distinguished from other hummingbirds, -for its green back, ruffus-tail, streaked with black, dark-wings -and ruffus head, easily separate it from other varieties. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo98" id="illo98" /> -<img src="images/i-112.jpg" width="365" height="238" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>R. H. Hotaling's Residence on "Sleepy Hollow Ranch."</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -To a reflective mind there is no time of the year more joyous -than spring. All nature seems gay and full of promise. Hope -is vibrant in the air, and enters into the nature of the receptive -man through more senses than science has yet named or discovered—an -unnamed sense which is neither sight, nor sound, -nor touch, nor intuition, a vibrant unseen force which is current -throughout the universe, connecting man, unknowingly, to -every tree, shrub, and atom. Thus, in the spring one feels that: -</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<p> -"There's a chorus in the valleys and an anthem on the hills -</p> -<p> -There's an echo from the music which our inner being thrills -</p> -<p> -Till we long to journey outward where no other foot has trod, -</p> -<p> -And join in the song of worship at the shrine of Nature's God." -</p> -</div></div></div> - -<p> -Spring is synonymous with the return of the birds, and their -blythe little -songs are but -another -promise of -hope and expectation. -</p> - -<p> -Following -close upon -the return of -Allen's -Hummingbird -is the -little piliolated -warbler -with his -green back, -pale, sulphur -yellow -breast, and -tiny "pee -wit" call. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo99" id="illo99" /> -<img src="images/i-113.jpg" width="300" height="399" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Taxidermist of Marin.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -When the climbing roses are becoming gay with blossoms, -our old friends, the linnets, returning from their winter's -sojourn in lower California, begin to build their nests. -</p> - -<p> -A walk in the woods in the early morning or evening will -acquaint one with another spring bird, Vaux's Swift, invariably -seen about the streams. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo100" id="illo100" /> -<img src="images/i-114.jpg" width="300" height="398" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Quail's Nest.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -In our hasty glimpse of the birds, it is impossible to enumerate -all the feathered flock, and the renewal of a few old acquaintances -will have to suffice. A very characteristic summer inhabitant -of Marin's woodlands is the Red Shafted Flicker, a -large bird, -conspicuous -when flying -for its gay -plumage, and -often seen -about the -stumps of -rotten trees, -in the holes -of which -it makes -its nest. -While strolling -in the -woods we are -often startled -by a sharp -rat-tat-tat on -a neighboring -alder, -and on close -approach a flutter of wings -discloses a black-and-white -creature with a dash of -scarlet on his head. This is -Harris's Woodpecker which -makes the silent woods resound -to its noisy rapping. A -harsh, squawking call, a swift -flight of blue wings, and an -ensuing, noisy chatter announce -the saucy California -jay—the least lovable to my -mind of all the California -birds. He is the Rockefeller -of the bird-world, consuming and destroying the eggs of -his fellow birds, leaving destruction and ruin in his wake -in the shape of desolate, broken nests. A pleasing contrast to -this sharp, -unruly -bird, is the -large, -beautiful -orange -mottled -Bullock's -Oriole, -who fills -the air -near sundown, -with -his rich, -melodious warble, which he repeats with never-tiring zeal. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo101a" id="illo101a" /> -<img src="images/i-115a.jpg" width="300" height="353" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Humming Bird's Nest.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo101b" id="illo101b" /> -<img src="images/i-115b.jpg" width="300" height="248" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Little Songsters.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Of the fall birds, the crows and Brewer's Blackbirds are -the most notable. Though the former are with us the entire -year, it is in the fall, in flocking time, that their loud caw-caw-caw -is heard as -in bands they -circle above -the tree-tops; -while Brewer's -Blackbirds, -sleek, -glossy fellows, -after -foraging -throughout -the day in -the valleys, -soar to some -huge dead -pine tree and -chatter -through the -twilight -hours, flying -when night arrives, with one accord, to a patch of tules in some -pond where they settle for the night. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo102" id="illo102" /> -<img src="images/i-116.jpg" width="300" height="332" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Sportsman.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Of the non-migrating birds, the little dark brown Wren Tit, -inhabitant of thickets; the dull gray and white Titmouse, frequenter -of oaks; the friendly little California Chickadee; not -to mention the great horned Owls with their deep hoo-hoo-hoo, -the barn-owls with their treble screech, and lastly the beautiful -oft-abused Quail, are but a few of the interesting native inhabitants -of Marin. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo103" id="illo103" /> -<img src="images/i-117.jpg" width="550" height="343" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Near to Nature's Heart.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Owing to the widely scattered population in the northern -part of Marin County, this section is consequently more wild -and natural in appearance than the southern half. -</p> - -<p> -Lying at the base of a range of high hills which slope somewhat -abruptly to the Ocean are the most interesting natural -phenomena in this region. This is a chain of sparkling lakes, -three in number, which at first view on descending the precipitous -roadway seem to be connected with the Ocean so near its -edge do they appear. -</p> - -<p> -Upon close approach, however, we discovered them to be -of fresh water and at an elevation of nine hundred -feet above -sea level, but -their close -proximity to -the Ocean -and the cavernous -inlets -opening from -the sea would -intimate their -former connection. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo105" id="illo105" /> -<img src="images/i-119.jpg" width="300" height="402" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Bend in The Road.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -On the -shore of the -largest of -these, Shafter -Lake, is -located, amid -the luxuriant -copse wood, -the Point -Reyes Sportsmen's -Club House. As the lakes are stocked with black bass, -land-locked salmon, and various kinds of trout the angler -is a familiar figure in the vicinity; and the abounding deer, -quail, ducks, and snipe, attract the huntsman, while the beauty -of these unique lakes and their picturesque environs, though -little known to the general public, induce many a local pedestrian -to take the twelve-mile tramp from Olema, through the -forests over the steep ridges and down among the chemisal -and sagebrush to this Ocean retreat. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo106" id="illo106" /> -<img src="images/i-120.jpg" width="365" height="277" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>One of the Sparkling Lakes.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Some four miles northwest of the lakes a narrow valley, -lined by massive barren hills, winds its way to the Pacific. -Mammoth oaks adorn its wild and tangled glades, huge redwoods -lift their lofty tops to the sky, while ferns and trailing -vines festoon the banks and rocks with such luxuriance that the -whole seems a riot of contending greens. -</p> - -<p> -Winding in and out like a silver thread among the stately -trees and saplings is a little stream which fills the air with -freshness and the cadence of a song, while hanging in fantastic, -airy festoons from the trees which look in consequence like -bearded Druids, covering trunks and branches, spreading its -delicate traceries on the rocks, and abounding on every conceivable -object are such masses of vari-colored moss that one -would feign exclaim, "Surely this should be called Moss, not -Bear Valley!" for while the latter roving inhabitants have long -since disappeared, the former is and no doubt will remain, in -evidence until the forest is no more. -</p> - -<p> -It is necessary to see this Valley in order to comprehend its -beauty. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo107" id="illo107" /> -<img src="images/i-121.jpg" width="368" height="281" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Shafter Lake.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -One can drive through its cool depths on a finely graded road -amid thousands of majestic trees, while here and there an open -space reveals the sunlight and the blue sky overhead in contrast -with the dim, uncertain light pervading its woodland -stretches. -</p> - -<p> -No lover of the beautiful can regret a jaunt to this delightful -spot, for the charm and witchery of its unique beauty remain in -the memory long after the excursion is a thing of the past; even -as the perfume of a rose remains after the flower has faded. -</p> - -<p> -The sole habitation in Bear Valley, located in a charming -sunny exposure with imposing trees and garden surrounding it, -is the Country Club, famous in local circles. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo108" id="illo108" /> -<img src="images/i-122.jpg" width="368" height="258" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>On the Shore of Shafter Lake.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The deep baying of hounds from its extensive kennels -forms the only discordant note in the Valley, reminding one -that even near to nature's heart man's inherent primitiveness -asserts itself. If, when wandering in these woodland -fastnesses, he (man) would hunt the wild creatures with a camera -it would require greater patience, skill and acumen -than making -the ground -wet with the -blood of -fawns and -quail. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo109a" id="illo109a" /> -<img src="images/i-123a.jpg" width="300" height="404" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Entering Bear Valley.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -But "civilization -has -ever developed the -physical and -the intellectual -at the -expense of -the psychic, -the humane, -and the spiritual." -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo109b" id="illo109b" /> -<img src="images/i-123b.jpg" width="369" height="205" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Country Club.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Notwithstanding -its -small area, -numerable -excursions -offer themselves to the ambitious tourist in Marin, while the -diversity of its surface and climate, and the ease with which one -can explore its remaining primeval stretches, make this tiny -northern peninsula a necessary adjunct to San Francisco, -which, with its ever-increasing population, needs an outlet for -recreation, relaxation, and repose. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo110" id="illo110" /> -<img src="images/i-124.jpg" width="365" height="301" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Among the Ferns.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Moreover, as the other Bay counties are less rugged in -formation, more inhabited, and consequently more conventional -in appearance, true nature-lovers find an outing in -Marin a solace and an inspiration. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo111" id="illo111" /> -<img src="images/i-125.jpg" width="550" height="339" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>At the Trough.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -A short distance from Bear Valley the road, after passing -a stretch of low marsh-land covered with tules, reeds, and -willows, comes suddenly to a sheet of water which at first -sight appears to be an inland lake, so peaceful and protected -are its waters. -</p> - -<p> -This is none other than Tomales Bay—a long, narrow inlet -from the Ocean. -</p> - -<p> -At the base of the range of lofty hills which shelter it -on the west is situated Inverness, the location of the tract of -three thousand and three hundred acres which was recently -sold, constituting, it is said, the largest single transaction in -suburban lands ever made in this part of California, or in -fact anywhere else in this State. It involved over half a -million dollars, and is reputed to be the beginning of a new -movement in Marin. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo113" id="illo113" /> -<img src="images/i-127.jpg" width="367" height="299" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Nearing Tomales Bay.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The land is to be divided for summer homes and cottages; -and as the nearest station is Point Reyes, it is planned to operate -a ferry across Tomales Bay, which would shorten the -distance to the railroad where a new station is to be erected. -</p> - -<p> -Extensive plans are also on foot to extend the electric road -from its present northern terminus at Fairfax to Inverness, -and once that is accomplished, the new summer resort and -suburban town will be brought within a little more than an -hour's ride of San Francisco. -</p> - -<p> -Besides its many rural attractions there are more than -six miles of sand beach at Inverness, and the tide on going -out exposes the sand to the sun, which warms the -water on its return, and insures delightful bathing during the -summer. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo114" id="illo114" /> -<img src="images/i-128.jpg" width="366" height="296" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Tomales Bay.</span> -</p> -</div> - - - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo115" id="illo115" /> -<img src="images/i-129.jpg" width="366" height="212" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Church of the Assumption, Tomales.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Unlike many of the counties of California, Marin, during -the gold period, attracted very little attention among the miners. -Her chief, and, in fact, only industry in those days was the -raising of stock. About the year 1860 the people in the -northern part of the County, especially in the Tomales district, -located on the eastern part of upper Tomales Bay, began -growing potatoes with such successful results that the County -soon gained the name of an unusually fertile potato-raising -region. -</p> - -<p> -Although stock, potato-raising, and dairying are still continued -in a small degree in the vicinity of Tomales, the chicken -industry is gradually superseding them, and the success -attending this latest departure portends well for the future -of this section. -</p> - -<p> -The small ranches, which formerly were most all incumbered -with one or more mortgages, are now being cleared, and -the general aspect for the small rancher is greatly improved. -</p> - -<p> -Poultry raising as conducted under the present modern system -is vastly superior to anything of its kind in former years. -</p> - -<p> -Some idea of the dimensions of this industry were gained -during a recent visit made by the author to one of these modern -poultry farms. The ranch was of average size, and in the neat -yards inclosed by high wire fences I saw some thirteen hundred -laying hens, while eight hundred pullets for the market, -all graded as to age, were in various yards. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo116" id="illo116" /> -<img src="images/i-130.jpg" width="366" height="303" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Feeding Time.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -From this ranch between five and six cases of eggs are -shipped every week, each case containing thirty-six dozen; -averaging two hundred and seventy-five cases or thirty thousand -eggs per year. -</p> - -<p> -In the laying season over seven hundred eggs are gathered -daily. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo117" id="illo117" /> -<img src="images/i-131.jpg" width="550" height="346" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Chicken Ranches in Marin.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The multitudinous, airy, white-washed hen houses in the -numerous, cleanly, sunny inclosures; the fields of grain raised -for the fowls' consumption; the incubator room and the adjoining -brooder; the granary, from which at stated periods the -food is measured, are all adjuncts of the modern poultry ranch. -</p> - -<p> -It is interesting to watch the great flocks of fowl, all -snowy white (the white leghorn being preferred), darting -noisily toward the attendant as he enters their enclosure at -feeding-time, and the -ensuing scramble for -wheat, and the continuous -pick-pick-pick verily -make the hen a definition -for perpetual -motion—in feeding-time, -at least. -</p> - -<p> -As but five acres of -ground are necessary to -carry on successfully a -moderate size chicken -ranch, it may be seen -how with less outlay -and incident expenses -the small rancher can -make better profits in -this industry than in -dairying. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo119" id="illo119" /> -<img src="images/i-133.jpg" width="300" height="521" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Defacing Nature.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -West of Tomales Bay -a long narrow neck of -land stretches far out -into the Pacific. Though -somewhat barren in appearance, owing to the dearth of trees -and the abundance of low, tangled sagebrush, the fact that -grass grows the entire year on its slopes makes Point Reyes -the famous dairying center of Marin. -</p> - -<p> -Ever since the early eighties dairying has been the leading -industry of the County, and, although carried on in all sections -of Marin, it is on Point Reyes that it assumes the most extensive -proportions. -</p> - -<p> -The ranches there are larger in extent, all owned by one -person, namely Mr. Webb Howard, and are rented yearly by -the tenants, the cattle being included with the land. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo120" id="illo120" /> -<img src="images/i-134.jpg" width="368" height="211" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Dairying on the Edge of the Pacific.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The average ranch on the Point contains about fourteen -hundred and fifty acres and one hundred and eighty cows; -the old stock being replenished as required. -</p> - -<p> -Great quantities of butter are shipped by schooner and -rail to the City where it finds a ready market, as the Marin -County butter is known to be of a superior quality. -</p> - -<p> -A trip to the Point by carriage cannot be made under -two days at the shortest, and as hotels and inns are unknown -in this region, the traveler is obliged to solicit shelter for the -night from one of the ranch houses which are scattered at -wide intervals. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo121" id="illo121" /> -<img src="images/i-135.jpg" width="367" height="459" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>In the Pasture.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -There are few places, save Ireland, where hospitality, the -real whole-souled, hearty, genuine hospitality, is so dispensed -without question to the stranger as in this tiny northwest -corner of Marin. -</p> - -<p> -Though loath to intrude, the hearty reception tendered -and the ensuing civilities received convince the wayfarer of -his welcome, and have earned a reputation for these good -people rivaling in proportion the Emerald Isle itself. -</p> - -<p> -After spending the night at one of these ranches we proceeded -on the following morning to the most interesting, -fascinating, and historical sheet of water in Marin County. -</p> - -<p> -In 1577, Sir Francis, then only Captain, Drake, already distinguished -as an experienced navigator, fitted out, with the -pecuniary aid of the court, a buccaneering expedition against -the Spaniards. -</p> - -<p> -After reaching the Pacific and intercepting several privateers, -he bethought himself of another object, that of finding -the much-talked-of northern passage from the Pacific to the -Atlantic. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo122" id="illo122" /> -<img src="images/i-136.jpg" width="356" height="182" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Going Home.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -If he could discover this passage, he would not only perform -a notable service to his country, but would have a comparatively -short and safe voyage homeward. But after a -run of nearly two months, he experienced such bitterly cold -weather, his people suffered so severely, and his heavily-laden -ship leaked so badly, that he deemed it prudent to abandon -any further search for a northern strait; and accordingly running -down the Coast in search of a stopping place, he passed -the long, projecting promontory of Point Reyes, and under its -lee discovered "a convenient and fit harbor" in which he -anchored on June 17th, 1579. At this place, which is now known -as Drake's Bay, he remained thirty-six days. During that -period, which was required to thoroughly repair and refit his -vessel, he had a number of interviews, and some remarkable -intercourse with the natives. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo123" id="illo123" /> -<img src="images/i-137.jpg" width="550" height="341" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Marin Ranch.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo125" id="illo125" /> -<img src="images/i-139.jpg" width="346" height="475" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Sir Francis Drake.</span>—From an old English Painting. -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Upon sailing into the harbor he found a wild, desolate -looking beach; but the next day Indians appeared in considerable -numbers. One of them paddled out in a canoe to -within hailing distance of the ship, where he made a long -oration, accompanied by violent gestures, after which he -returned to the shore. Approaching the ship a second time in the -same manner, he brought with him a head-dress of black feathers -tastefully arranged, and a small basket, neatly woven, filled with -an herb called "tabah." These he delivered to the English, and -with the exception of a hat could not be induced to accept any -of the presents offered him in return. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo126" id="illo126" /> -<img src="images/i-140.jpg" width="367" height="301" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Bay of Solitude.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -All his actions, as well as of the people on shore, indicated -respect and deference for the English, as if they were a -superior race of beings. -</p> - -<p> -In the course of a few days Drake, having carefully surveyed -the place, brought his ship to anchor near the shore -and landed his men with arms and provisions to set up tents -and build a barricade. The Indians at this collected on the -neighboring hills and looked down with wonder and amazement, -so much so, that the English supposed themselves taken -for gods; a supposition which proved correct, for, descending, -the male Indians brought ornaments, net-work, quivers, -skins, etc., intended for offerings, while the women performed -divers wild and violent dances, in which many of the participants -were cut and wounded. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo127" id="illo127" /> -<img src="images/i-141.jpg" width="366" height="299" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Drake's Bay.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -In order to prevent a repetition of this gruesome spectacle, -Drake ordered religious services to be performed in their -presence, thus indicating that they too were but creatures -of a God above. -</p> - -<p> -After prayers, psalms were sung which especially attracted -the attention of the Indians. -</p> - -<p> -Music was a language they could understand, being a universal -language intelligible to every human heart; and they were -so delighted -that at -every -pause they -testified -their -pleasure. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo128" id="illo128" /> -<img src="images/i-142.jpg" width="300" height="296" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Bit of Rocky Shore.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The business -of -repairing -and refitting -the -vessel being -at -length finished, -the -cargo re-embarked -and the -peaceful character of the Indians being now so well understood -that no trouble from them was apprehended, Drake, with a -number of his crew made a short excursion inland, which being -necessarily made on foot extended but a few miles, and did not -afford any wide or distant view; and the English, like the Spaniards -under Cabrillo, though within less than a day's travel of -the most spacious and magnificent bay in the world, had no -idea of its existence. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo129" id="illo129" /> -<img src="images/i-143.jpg" width="590" height="365" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Marin Cows.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -When ready to sail, Drake erected, by way of monument -and memorial of his having been there and taken possession -of the country, a large post, firmly planted, upon which he -caused to be nailed a plate of brass engraven with the name -of the English Queen, the day and date of his arrival, the -voluntary submission of the inhabitants to English sovereignty, -and beneath all, his own name. Fastened to the plate was -an English sixpence of recent coinage, so placed as to exhibit -Her Majesty's likeness. -</p> - -<p> -All of which goes to prove that Drake supposed himself to -be the discoverer of this region, and was not aware that -thirty-six years previously the Spaniards had passed the same -Coast and anticipated him. -</p> - -<p> -Having found no northern passage to the Atlantic, and -making up his mind that if one existed it was too far north -to be practical, Drake returned by the route pointed out by -Magellan in his circumnavigation of the globe. -</p> - -<p> -On July 23d, after many ceremonies of a religious character, -and taking an appropriate -farewell of the sorrowful -natives, he stood out to sea. -As his ship lessened in the -distance, following the sun -over the trackless waste of -waters, the Indians ran to the -tops of their hills to keep it -in view as long as possible, -and lighted fires, which indicated, -long after they themselves -could be distinguished -from the vessel, that they -were still watchful, and -doubtless turning their straining -eyes toward the departing -strangers. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo131" id="illo131" /> -<img src="images/i-145.jpg" width="300" height="441" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Drake's Cross.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The waves of three centuries have lapped these shores; countless -storms have swept over the promontories, and many tempests -have grappled with its cliffs since the year when Sir -Francis first dropped anchor in the Bay which ultimately bore -his name. -</p> - -<p> -Time has made few changes in this Ocean inlet, as man -has practically shunned it; for excepting a small cabin on the -beach, no habitation meets the eye. The schooner which touches -there three times a week to load with butter is the only keel -that rides its waves, and the aspect of the lofty white cliffs -which encircle this Bay of Solitude are unaltered since the time -when, attracting the English navigator to their shores, they -received, because of their resemblance to his native cliffs of -Dover, the appellation New Albion. -</p> - -<p> -It seems unjust and absurd that on the shores of this Bay, -which was the theater of Drake's actions in our State, no post, -stone or monument is placed whereon to commemorate his -landing, or inform the traveler of the history enacted there; -while in Golden Gate Park on a mound which his eyes never -saw, on soil which his feet never trod, a lofty granite cross rears -its solid strength in his commemoration; an illustration of the -inconsistencies of man. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo132" id="illo132" /> -<img src="images/i-146.jpg" width="366" height="278" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>A Rugged Coast Line.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo133" id="illo133" /> -<img src="images/i-147.jpg" width="368" height="278" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Point Reyes.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Point Reyes should be called the home of the meadowlark -for, while found in other parts of the County, it is on this -northern point that the larks congregate in such numbers that -the air is always vibrant with their cheerful, happy songs. -</p> - -<p> -Perched on the lichen-covered fences, these large, plump, -yellow-breasted fellows are invariably heard warbling their -rich, mellow notes with untiring energy, and making, to my -mind, the sweetest and most enchanting of all music. -</p> - -<p> -There is perhaps no more dangerous and uninviting extent -of coast line from Oregon to Mexico than that extending from -Point Reyes northward to the mouth of Tomales Bay. -</p> - -<p> -To go ashore at any point along this line is to go to certain -destruction, and the fact of its proximity to the harbor of San -Francisco renders it doubly dangerous, as vessels have gone -hard ashore under full sail, little dreaming that danger was -near and thinking that they were heading for the Golden Gate. -</p> - -<p> -Since the establishment, on the extreme point, of the lighthouse -in 1870, there have been few wrecks compared with -former years, while those imperiled on the Coast receive assistance -from the brave crew of the life-saving station located on -the beach. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo134" id="illo134" /> -<img src="images/i-148.jpg" width="364" height="291" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Point Reyes Life-Saving Station.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Near the close of a very murky, foggy day, in August, 1875, -a sailing vessel, the Warrior Queen, bound from Auckland, New -Zealand, to San Francisco, went ashore on the beach, about three -miles north of the Point. -</p> - -<p> -The sky had been so overcast with fog that her officers -had not been able to take any observations for ten days and -their "dead-reckoning" showed them to be many miles at sea. -</p> - -<p> -Suddenly they found themselves in the breakers going -ashore on a sand beach and by immediately casting anchor, the -vessel was held from going hard ashore, although she was later -driven far upon the beach. -</p> - -<p> -The men embarked in three boats and put to sea rather than -try to effect a landing in the surf, and reached San Francisco -safely the following day. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo135" id="illo135" /> -<img src="images/i-149.jpg" width="341" height="550" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Plowing in October.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -When the Warrior -Queen was discovered -by the settlers the -next morning after -she struck, there was -consequently no sign -of life on board, and -it became a matter of -conjecture to those -who had assembled -on the beach as to -what had become of -the crew. -</p> - -<p> -It was decided to -go on board and discover, -if possible, -something to show the -fate of the men, but -the difficulty which -confronted them was -how to communicate -with the ship. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo137" id="illo137" /> -<img src="images/i-151.jpg" width="300" height="476" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">"<span class='smcap'>The Warrior Queen.</span>" -</p> -</div> - -<p> -At last, Mr. Henry Claussen, a sea-faring man of much -experience (who still lives with his family on the Point), volunteered -to swim out to the vessel and take a line on board -with him. He performed the daring feat and was rewarded -by finding that all books and instruments were gone, hence -he knew that the men had put to sea. -</p> - -<p> -On a ranch but a short distance from the light-house the only -known relic of the wreck remains. This is none other than -the Warrior Queen herself-the figure-head of the vessel. Clad -in a suit of mail, a shield clenched tightly to her side, with head -upraised in proud defiance, the Warrior Queen seems still to -send a challenge to the elements; but now her battle is for life -itself—against rain and wind and the decay of time. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo138a" id="illo138a" /> -<img src="images/i-152a.jpg" width="368" height="208" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Lighthouse.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -While prolific in legends and memories, history is not the -only vivifying current in Marin, and though linked inseparably -with the past, she is not a worn and decrepit matron relying -on artifice solely to revive her charms, but a young and vigorous -maiden, in whom the ambitions, powers, and possibilities -are all centered but untried. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo138b" id="illo138b" /> -<img src="images/i-152b.jpg" width="368" height="247" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Cloud-Hosts.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -That a new era is awakening for this region is without doubt. -Large tracts of land formerly held intact are now being divided -into building lots, and the rapidity with which these are selling -portends a rapidly increasing population. -</p> - -<p> -Various railroads are contending for rights of way, and -countless rumors are in circulation, any of which means a -changed aspect for the County. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo139" id="illo139" /> -<img src="images/i-153.jpg" width="367" height="254" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>Where the Waves Break.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -The Marin Terminal is constructing a route from Petaluma -to Point San Pedro, and two railroad companies have filed -articles of incorporation for the avowed purpose of making -some points on Marin's shore the land terminus for railroads -from San Francisco to points in the northern part of the State. -</p> - -<p> -The recent purchase of Silva Island, in Richardson's Bay, -by the officials of the Western Pacific gives credence to a rumor -that, a long wharf being constructed from this Island, the company -would institute a terminus there. -</p> - -<p> -The facilities which this County offers for a railroad center -are undeniable; while the monopolistic control of the surrounding -Bay terminals renders another railroad outlet a practical -necessity, and its adjacency to San Francisco and the excellent -harbors which skirt its shores make Marin a natural and practical -center. -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo140" id="illo140" /> -<img src="images/i-154.jpg" width="367" height="318" alt="" /> -<p class="caption"><span class='smcap'>The Glory of the Dying Day.</span> -</p> -</div> - -<p> -Without doubt the ensuing years will witness many radical -changes for this northern peninsula. -</p> - -<p> -With the increase in population there is every probability -that a connection from Point San Pedro across to the Belt Line -on the Contra Costa shore will be consummated, linking the -Bay counties by a boat ride of scarce fifteen minutes. -</p> - -<p> -The new coaling station which the Government will erect -at California City, a small place near Tiburon, is another enterprise -in the County, which will call for the expenditure -of more than three hundred and fifty thousand dollars. It is -said that the Bureau of Equipment of the Navy Department has -already signed with a New York firm to begin on this. -</p> - -<p> -Having reached the limits of Marin's enterprises, and territory, -Point Reyes, from which westward stretches an apparent -infinitude of sea, to where the sun, now dipping on the verge of -the horizon, casts its refulgent beams, I gazed backward on -Marin which lay behind me glowing in the glory of the dying day. -</p> - -<p> -The indented shore, on whose cliffs nature has hung no -tapestry of verdure, now enshrouded in the lambent haze, no -longer looked as if composed of material objects, but rather -like its luminous wraith emerging from the sea. And as the -mists of evening veiled it gradually from my view I murmured: -</p> - -<p> -"There is a future as well as a past for this little County, -a future not painted in the dim tints of the fading day, but in -the bright, glorious radiance of the expectant morrow." -</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i-155.jpg" width="300" height="293" alt="" /> -</div> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of In Tamal Land, by Helen Bingham - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN TAMAL LAND *** - -***** This file should be named 56061-h.htm or 56061-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/6/0/6/56061/ - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. 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Gutenberg EBook of In Tamal Land, by Helen Bingham - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: In Tamal Land - -Author: Helen Bingham - -Release Date: November 27, 2017 [EBook #56061] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN TAMAL LAND *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -Transcriber's Note: - - Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have - been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. - - Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. - - - - -In Tamal Land - - - - - [Illustration: Approaching Marin's Shores.] - - - - - In Tamal Land - - - BY - HELEN BINGHAM - - - THE CALKINS PUBLISHING HOUSE - SAN FRANCISCO, U. S. A. - - - - - _Copyrighted, 1906_, - By Helen Bingham - - - _All Rights Reserved_ - - - - -DEDICATION - - - To the chum of my childhood, - The friend of my youth, - And my kindred soul-- - My Mother-- - This volume is lovingly dedicated. - - - - -INTRODUCTION - - - A secret nook in a pleasant land, - Whose groves the frolic fairies planned, - Where arches green, the livelong day, - Echo the blackbird's roundelay, - And vulgar feet have never trod - Spots that are sacred to thought and God. - --_Emerson._ - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - Approaching Marin's Shores Frontispiece - Title sketch 1 - One of the Commodious Ferry-boats 1 - The Ferry Landing 2 - Main Street, Sausalito 3 - Sausalito Residences 4 - The Club House, Sausalito 5 - The Son of the Renowned Captain 7 - A Typical Roadway 8 - A Reminder of Rhineland 9 - A Hillside Road 10 - Hillside Gardening 11 - O'Connell's Seat 12 - Daniel O'Connell 13 - A Windblown Tree 14 - Fissures of the Cliffs 15 - Nearing the Point 16 - Fishing Boats 17 - The Derrick Wharf 19 - Point Bonita Lighthouse 20 - Overlooking the Fog 21 - The First Fog Signal 22 - Angel Island 23 - The Departing Day 23 - Mt. Tamalpais from Mill Valley 25 - The Powerhouse 27 - An Electric Train 27 - A Relic of the Past 28 - Mill Valley Depot 29 - The Three Wells 30 - The Cascade 30 - The Old Mill 31 - Like the Mikado's Realm 33 - A Reminder of the Toriis 34 - Some of the Quaint Lamps 35 - The Dining-room at Miyajima 35 - A Creek in Summer 36 - In the Hayfield 36 - "The Outdoor-Art Club" 37 - What the Club is Trying to Prevent 38 - The Mountain Train 39 - Through the Redwoods 39 - Turning the Innumerable Curves 40 - From the Crest of Mt. Tamalpais 41 - The Marine Observatory 43 - The Tavern 43 - The Bow-Knot 44 - A Wireless Telegraphy Station 45 - The Bolinas Stage 46 - Bolinas Bay 46 - A Glimpse of Bolinas 47 - Flag Staff Inn 48 - Sand Dunes 49 - The Breakers 49 - The Oil Well 50 - Where Don Gregorio Died 50 - Thad Welch's Cabin 51 - Duxbury Reef 53 - The Lone Tree 54 - Thad Welch at Work 54 - Among the Redwoods 55 - Primal Solitudes 56 - In the Canyon 57 - Angel Island from the Mainland 58 - The Tiburon Depot 59 - "The Tropic Bird" 60 - In the Cove 61 - Belvedere 63 - An Artistic Church 64 - Unloading Codfish 65 - Drying Codfish 66 - San Quentin 67 - Point San Quentin as seen from Mt. Tamalpais 68 - Lagunitas, San Rafael's Water Supply 69 - Trolling on the Lake 70 - A Marin Landscape. (From the original by Thad Welch) 71 - Mt. Tamalpais from Ross Valley 73 - A Home in Ross Valley 74 - A Shaded Avenue 75 - Dress Parade, Hitchcock Military Academy 76 - Theological Seminary, San Anselmo 77 - Dominican Convent 77 - Court House, San Rafael 78 - Escalle Vineyard and Winery 79 - "Fairhills" 81 - Fourth Street, San Rafael 82 - Entrance to Hotel Rafael 83 - Hotel Rafael 83 - The Late Owner of the Olompali 84 - The Last of the Race 85 - A Wood Interior 87 - Summer in the Redwoods 87 - A Charming Drive 88 - Browsing 89 - A Characteristic Stream 90 - Relics from a Shell Mound 91 - Haying Time 92 - Apple Picking in Marin 93 - Cheese Industry 95 - Young Heron 96 - On the Marsh 97 - R. H. Hotaling's Residence on "Sleepy Hollow Ranch" 98 - The Taxidermist of Marin 99 - A Quail's Nest 100 - A Humming Bird's Nest 101 - Little Songsters 101 - A Sportsman 102 - Near to Nature's Heart 103 - A Bend in the Road 105 - One of the Sparkling Lakes 106 - Shafter Lake 107 - On the Shore of Shafter Lake 108 - Entering Bear Valley 109 - The Country Club 109 - Among the Ferns 110 - At the Trough 111 - Nearing Tomales Bay 113 - Tomales Bay 114 - Church of the Assumption, Tomales 115 - Feeding Time 116 - Chicken Ranches in Marin 117 - Defacing Nature 119 - Dairying on the Edge of the Pacific 120 - In the Pasture 121 - Going Home 122 - A Marin Ranch 123 - Sir Francis Drake 125 - A Bay of Solitude 126 - Drake's Bay 127 - A Bit of Rocky Shore 128 - Marin Cows 129 - Drake's Cross 131 - A Rugged Coast Line 132 - Point Reyes 133 - Point Reyes Life Saving Station 134 - Plowing in October 135 - "The Warrior Queen" 137 - The Lighthouse 138 - Cloud-Hosts 138 - Where the Waves Break 139 - The Glory of the Dying Day 140 - - - - -In Tamal Land - - -To the average tourist there are few states in the Union which offer -more attractions than California. - -Though its mild climate, fertile valleys, and scenic beauties -are counted among its chief assets, still they are not its sole -possessions, for, linked to the present great commercial activity of -the Pacific Coast is a chain of picturesque events, clustered about its -birth and infancy, which lends to the whole a peculiar charm, giving it -a distinct individuality. - -While the footsteps of the Spaniards grow fainter and fainter as -they glide away into the corridors of time, and their traces become -gradually assimilated by the progressive and oft-times aggressive -Yankee, nevertheless the echoes from that former non-progressive -splendor float back to us, and history re-animates the old adobes, -breathing into a few secluded valleys the spirit of the past. - - [Illustration: One of the Commodious Ferry Boats.] - -As the seat of historic interest, Monterey has received more homage -than any other county on the Slope. Tourists flock to pay court to -her old landmarks, writers eagerly pore over her time-worn archives, -and the wielders of the brush have congregated in such numbers as to -form an artists' colony. Though Monterey is undoubtedly justified in -carrying off the palm for her many attractions, yet it is but fair -that she should divide the honors of the past with her sister counties, -being content to reign as Sovereign of the Coast. - -Skirting the Northern end of San Francisco Bay is one of the smallest -and most picturesque counties of California. - - [Illustration: The Ferry Landing.] - -As a tiny gem in a coronet appears insignificant when contrasted with -the other stones in point of size, but when viewed alone is admired for -the diversity of its coloring and rare quality, so Marin, when measured -by acres, appears insignificant, but when estimated by the beauty and -diversity of its scenery stands unique, apart, alone. - -As we approach Marin's shores, after a half hour's ride across the Bay -on a commodious modern ferry-boat, our first thought on nearing the -land is its remarkable similarity to an Italian settlement. For surely -this town, situated on the steep hillside, is a counterpart of many an -Italian hamlet, which, clinging to some abrupt cliff or bluff, seems to -defy nature by its occupancy. - -The clear blue of the California sky overhead but added to the -illusion, although upon closer approach it was gradually dispelled by -the modern American houses in place of quaint Italian structures. - -Leaving the Depot we passed an attractive little park, well kept and -gay with flowers, and a walk of a few moments brought us to the most -historic part of Sausalito. - -Though not in the section designated "old Sausalito," still it is -the oldest in memories, for it was here that John Read, the first -English-speaking settler in the County, came in 1826, erecting near -the beach a crude board house. While waiting for a land grant from the -Mexican Government, Read lived here. - - [Illustration: Main Street, Sausalito.] - -Being of an ingenious turn of mind and having a practical nautical -knowledge, Read set about constructing a sail boat, which he -subsequently plied between Sausalito and San Francisco, carrying -passengers. This was the first ferry boat on the Bay and when we -contrast the little sailboat making its periodical trips across a -solitary Bay with the present ferry craft, passing on their route -ships from every quarter of the globe, a mere three score of years -seems short for such a change, and proves what can be accomplished by -Anglo-Saxon energy and enterprise. - - [Illustration: Sausalito Residences.] - -Upon receiving his grant for the Rancho Corte Madera del Presidio, -lying north of Sausalito, Mr. Read moved there in 1834. - -A few hundred yards back from the beach, in what is now called -"Wildwood Glen," was the first adobe house built in Sausalito. Only -a few stones now mark the spot on which it stood, and a solitary -pear-tree, gnarled and knotted with age stands a living witness of -peace and plenty and decay. For it was in the bountiful days preceding -the great influx into California by the Americans that Captain William -Antonio Richardson, an Englishman but lately arrived on a whaling -vessel from "the Downs," made application, and was given a grant to the -Sausalito Rancho by the Mexican Government. He soon began building his -adobe house and with the aid of the Indians it was rapidly completed. -In the spring of 1836 he brought his beautiful young wife, formerly the -Senorita Maria Antonia Martinez, to their new abode. - - [Illustration: The Club House, Sausalito.] - -The Senora Maria Antonio was the daughter of Ygnacio Martinez, for whom -the present town of that name in Contra Costa County was called. - - [Illustration: The Son of the Renowned Captain.] - -Of all the dreams of happiness and love that filled the minds of the -youthful pair on that fair spring morning, as in a small boat they -were rowed across the Bay, by Indians, to their new home, we can not -judge, but I am sure their dreams, however fond, were realized, for it -is recorded somewhere that joy and peace reigned supreme in the little -adobe. - -However this may be, a young orchard was set out, cattle were bought -and tended and the Senora's clever hands soon had the walls laden with -the sweetest of Castilian roses. A stream flowed by the house on its -way to the Bay, and on many a bright morning the Indian women of the -household might be seen bending low over the stones washing the family -linen. The stream has long since disappeared, as also the remnant of -the race that washed in its waters--one through an unaccountable law -of nature, the other through the rapacious greed and oppression of the -Anglo-Saxon race. - - [Illustration: A Typical Roadway.] - -Owing to the abundance of pure, fresh water found on the Sausalito -Rancho it was shipped to Yerba Buena and the Presidio. The water was -conducted by spouts to the beach, thence into a tank on a scow, which -conveyed it across the Bay. This mode of supplying San Francisco with -water lasted for some time, until with the increase of population this -primitive means was abandoned. - -A tule boat operated by Indians regularly crossed the Bay for the mail, -many of the Indians evincing considerable skill in navigation under the -tutelage of their able master. - -Standing beside a heap of stones--historic stones because the sole -remnant of this abode of the past--my glance wandered to the blue water -of the Bay which laps the edge of the glen and stretches over to the -distant hills which descend in gentle undulations to this beautiful -shimmering sheet of blue. And this Bay, too, speaks of the second -settler of Marin, for it bears his name. - -As my glance now fell on the enchanting little glen with its tangled -woodland and steep declivities, and then to the fair stretches of land -that lay beyond, a sigh of sadness escaped from me unawares. I thought -how all this lovely region, this Rancho Sausalito, comprising 19,500 -acres, as varied and beautiful as ever nature put her seal to, this -land, which rightfully belonged to Richardson and his descendants, -had been appropriated by others through pretext of law and what not, -until the heirs of the pioneer can call but a small building lot their -own. Thus we ever find that "man's inhumanity to man makes countless -thousands mourn." - - [Illustration: A Reminder of Rhineland.] - -But the son of the renowned Captain, a hale, hearty old gentleman, with -a pleasant Spanish accent, speaks with calm equanimity of their loss of -fortune, showing not a vestige of ill-will toward the transgressors, -and practicing in full the true Christian spirit so often lauded but -rarely seen. - -"Sometimes, it is true, it makes me sad," he once replied, in answer to -my queries, "to think of all the Rancho being gone. As a boy I used to -ride, chasing the cattle, climbing the steep mountain sides followed -by our vaqueros ... and how wild it was then and so beautiful--so -beautiful!" Thus the heir to all these acres would extol their beauty -without more reproach than that it sometimes made him sad. - -Ascending the glen by a winding country road, shadowed by trees and -shrubs, it was not long before we reached a small, low shingled cottage -nestled deep in the shade of tall bays and buckeyes. A neat sign over -the door bearing the inscription "O'Connell Glen," met our gaze, and -then we knew that this little cottage, with its wealth of solitude and -humble exterior, was the former home of the poet, Daniel O'Connell. -For it was in this rural retreat that O'Connell, with his family, spent -many busy, imaginative years. - - [Illustration: A Hillside Road.] - -A bohemian of the truest kind, he delighted in what Marin had to offer. -With a stout stick, and accompanied by his daughters, he would often -be seen sallying forth from his rustic lodge to tramp over hills and -through canyons, exploring the apparently inaccessible, viewing and -absorbing the wondrous beauty of woodland fastnesses, airy heights, -and rugged cliffs. Feeling the very pulse of nature, his poems were -the embodiment of all he had seen and felt, delighting the reader with -their subtle charm and graceful imagery, which were peculiarly the -author's own. - -Leaving his favorite retreat and last abode, for it was here in -1899 that the poet breathed his last, a short walk around the bend -of the hill brought us to another spot, sacred to the memory of the -poet. This is the O'Connell monument which, as the inscription tells -us, was erected by his sorrowing friends. The monument is in the -form of a granite seat, some fifteen feet in length, fashioned in a -graceful, curving crescent. Placed on the bank above the roadway, it is -surrounded by great masses of bright-colored flowers, and approached by -a few stone steps. The floor is of small, inlaid stones, in the center -of which a three-leaf Shamrock proclaims the nationality of the poet. - - [Illustration: Hillside Gardening.] - -Besides the name he made for himself, O'Connell came of illustrious -ancestors, being the son of a distinguished lawyer, Charles O'Connell, -and grand-nephew of the great Irish patriot, Daniel O'Connell. - - [Illustration: O'Connell's Seat.] - -On the back of the seat are inscribed these lines, written by the -poet but ten days before his fatal illness, and prophetic of the long -journey he was so soon to take, where, away from the cares and turmoil -of this world, his soul could solve its remaining problems: - - I have a Castle of Silence, flanked by a lofty keep, - And across the drawbridge lieth the lovely chamber of sleep; - Its walls are draped in legends woven in threads of gold. - Legends beloved in dreamland, in the tranquil days of old. - - Here lies the Princess sleeping in the palace, solemn and - still, - And knight and countess slumber; and even the noisy rill - That flowed by the ancient tower, has passed on its way to - the sea, - And the deer are asleep in the forest, and the birds are - asleep in the tree. - - And I in my Castle of Silence, in my chamber of sleep, lie - down. - Like the far-off murmur of forests come the turbulent echoes - of town. - And the wrangling tongues about me have now no power to keep - My soul from the solace exceeding the blessed Nirvana of - sleep. - - Lower the portcullis softly, sentries, placed on the wall; - Let shadows of quiet and silence on all my palace fall; - Softly draw the curtains.... Let the world labor and weep-- - My soul is safe environed by the walls of my chamber of - sleep. - -Turning from these verses to rest on the granite seat, we were -confronted with a view of surpassing loveliness. Our attention had been -so engrossed in examining this monument to genius that, until then, we -had failed to perceive the commanding situation it held. - -Below us stretched the peaceful waters of the Bay; on the left Angel -Island and the Berkeley hills, with old Diablo dimly seen in the -distance; in front, Alcatraz with its warlike aspect lay basking in -the sun; while to the right the City, with its many hills and pall -of smoke, could be plainly discerned. Truly a fitting spot for this -memorial to genius. - - [Illustration: Daniel O'Connell.] - -Another attractive feature of Sausalito, besides its superb marine -view, is its abundance of flowers. These not only grow in thick -profusion in the quaint hillside gardens, but are planted beside -the roadways, covering many an erstwhile bare and unsightly bank -with trailing vines, gay nasturtiums and bright geraniums. There is -something in the spirit of this hillside gardening, this planting of -sweet blossoms for the public at large, that is very appealing in these -days of monopolistic greed, when everything that is worth while has a -fence around it. Thus it is refreshing to find a little spot in this -dollar-mad America where the citizens disinterestedly beautify the -public streets for the enjoyment of each passer-by. - - [Illustration: A Wind-Blown Tree.] - -Owing to the hilly surface of Sausalito, driving is rather a precarious -enjoyment, but there is one drive which, with its superb marine vistas, -amply compensates for the apparent lack of level roads. With the -intention of taking this drive we procured a team and were soon driven -rapidly along the boulevard skirting the water front, past the San -Francisco Yacht Club, with its medley of white sailboats and smaller -craft bobbing about in the water, and then through old Sausalito -nestled in the gulch. Thence ascending the hill, the road wound around -bend after bend with the Bay ever below us at a distance of a few -hundred feet. - -Arriving at a small, shingled lodge beside a gate through which we -passed into the reservation, we soon came upon the Fort Baker Barracks -in the hollow of the hills. It seems as if Nature, in anticipation of -man's conflict with his brother man, had formed these hills on purpose -for a fortification, so well adapted do they seem for their present -use. - -Beyond the Barracks, at the base of a cliff, we spied some small, white -buildings clustered on the rocks extending out into the water. This -proved to be Lime Point, and the buildings we were approaching belong -to the Government, constituting a lighthouse- and fog-signal station. -We found it to be one of the many smaller stations that are distributed -along the Coast. There is a diminutive white light, and a steam fog -whistle is kept ever ready to send out its note of warning at the -slightest approach of the milky vapor which is a terror to the seamen. - -Lime Point is directly opposite Fort Point, the distance being but -seven-eighths of a mile, and forms the Northern point of Golden Gate -Strait. While the view from these rocks is expansive, still it could -not be called commanding, as the Point is too near the sea level to -give the height and majesty requisite for an enchanting ocean vista. - - [Illustration: Fissures of the Cliffs.] - -As a pass is required before one can go through the reservation we -retraced our steps to the Barracks and upon receiving the passport from -the Sergeant Major, proceeded on our way up the steep, winding road -which leads out of the Valley. Reaching the summit, the road continues -its circuitous route; now in sight of the Bay and City, and again in -among the bare, rolling hills. - -While descending into a little valley we were stopped by a number of -heavily laden teams, lined up in the middle of the road. Before we -could question as to the delay, a volley of shots rang out, resounding -again and again in the silent canyons, and a flapping red flag near by -plainly denoted that the soldiers were engaged in target practice. - -In reply to our query as to the length of time we should be required -to halt, a soldier on the team in front informed us that sometimes one -had to wait an hour or an hour and a half. Other teams having lined up -behind, a retreat was impossible, and the prospect of a long wait in -the hot sun was not very agreeable. We learned that a new barracks was -in the course of construction below, in the valley at the head of the -Rodeo Lagoon, and these teams were laden with provisions for the men -stationed there. - - [Illustration: Nearing the Point.] - -Just as we had composed ourselves for the inevitable, a brisk waving -of red flags was seen in the Valley, followed by the moving of the -cavalcade in front; and, much to our satisfaction, we soon left our -pessimistic informer far in the rear. - - [Illustration: Fishing Boats.] - -On the most southerly point of Marin a narrow rocky neck of land -extends some distance into the Ocean. At the base are jagged rocks -over which the sea surges ceaselessly, cutting arches and miniature -caves in the fissures of the cliffs. From this rocky headland, which -formerly was a menace and terror to navigators, now streams a steady -light, and the point erstwhile spelling destruction now proves a -blessing to vessels which are guided safely into port by the aid of its -welcome light. This is Point Bonita and the Bonita Light, which, as we -approached, stood out clear in the afternoon sun. - - [Illustration: The Derrick Wharf.] - -Stopping at the lighthouse keeper's dwelling, we proceeded on foot to -the Point, accompanied by the keeper. Pausing in the narrow pathway, he -drew our attention to a small derrick-wharf for the tender, at the base -of the steep cliff on which we stood. This he explained was where the -boat, which touches here three times a week, lands provisions, oil, and -fuel. - -"But, how," I asked in astonishment as I gazed down the dizzy depth, -"do you get them up here?" - -"Oh, that is very simply done," he responded; "we start up the engine -and they are hauled up the bluff on a tram." - -Owing to the perilous windings of the path around an almost -perpendicular cliff a small tunnel has been cut through the solid rock. -As we emerged from this tunnel the Lighthouse confronted us only a few -yards away. - - [Illustration: Point Bonita Lighthouse.] - -The tower containing the light is a square, brick structure twenty-one -feet in height, situated at the edge of the Point at an elevation -of one hundred and twenty-four feet. The Bonita Light, although of -second-class rating, is so advantageously situated that its fixed, -white rays are visible seventeen miles at sea. - -The first lighthouse was established here in 1855, the light being -placed in the picturesque old tower still standing higher up on an -adjoining promontory and now serving as a day signal. The location was -unsurpassed, they say, in clear weather; but when the fog rolled in it -was quickly seen that a great mistake had been made in elevating the -lamp, for often when the light was entirely obscured by a fog bank, the -bluff below would be quite clear, so in 1877 the light was removed to -its present location. - - [Illustration: Overlooking the Fog.] - -An old gun, now rusty, lying beside its gun-carriage on the bluff, -was the first fog signal established on the Pacific Coast by the -government. In foggy weather it was discharged every hour and a half -during day and night. - -When we contrast the present steam sirens, blowing five blasts every -thirty-five seconds, with the former primitive means, we realize a -little what scientists and inventors have been doing these fifty years. - -The genial keeper, who is a second cousin of the late Colonel Robert -G. Ingersoll, showed us every nook and cranny in the place, from the -boilers, the lamp, and its appurtenances down to the neat store-rooms -and paint lockers. - -Though I have visited many fog-stations before, this one surpassed -all others in its perfect order and scrupulous cleanliness, reminding -one of a well regulated ship. So exactly was every corner and space -utilized, that, as Dickens once remarked of a steam-packet, "everything -was something else than what it pretended to be." - -All the appliances of the Station are in duplicate. Thus, if one siren -becomes disabled, another immediately takes its place; so with the -boilers, etc. - -Retracing our steps to the mainland, we noted on the edge of the cliff -near the keeper's dwelling the life-saving station whose crew do much -effective work about these jagged headlands. Bidding good-bye to the -keeper, we turned our backs on Bonita and started homeward. We had been -so engrossed with the Point and its environs as to be unconscious of -the flight of time, and, noting with surprise the waning afternoon, we -urged our horses to a brisk pace and sped rapidly along the elevated -roadway. - - [Illustration: The First Fog Signal.] - -The sun was slowly approaching the edge of the horizon, and Bonita, -still visible in the West, stood out a silhouette against a brilliant -sky. At its feet lay outstretched the gorgeously illumined sea; some -fleecy golden cloudlets, floating over the Gate, seemed a soft shower -of petals from the State's fair emblem; while the mellow light of the -departing day still rested lovingly on the loftiest hilltops, and over -on the city side occasional windows reflected his glory, as with a spot -of glistening gold. To the southward the blue misty tones of the Santa -Cruz Mountains began to merge into their robes of approaching night. - -Suddenly out upon the still air rang a deep boom! boom! Angel Island -was rendering her last tribute to the god of day. - - [Illustration: Angel Island.] - - [Illustration: The Departing Day.] - -Then there came to me those beautiful lines of our own poet, Lowell -Otus Reese: - - A touch of night on the hill-tops gray; - A dusky hush on the quivering Bay; - A calm moon mounting the silent East-- - White slave the day-god has released; - Small, scattered clouds - That seemed to wait - Like sheets of fire - O'er the Golden Gate. - And under Bonita, growing dim, - With a seeming pause on the ocean's rim, - Like a weary lab'rer, sinks the sun - To the booming crash of the sunset gun. - - All over the long slopes grown with green, - With the white tents scattering in between, - The flickering camp-fires start to glow - In the groves of the fair Presidio; - While the solemn chord - Of the evening hymn - Rolls over the Bay - Through the twilight dim - As the flag comes down to an anthem grand, - The brave, old song of our native land, - And Angel Isle, when the song is done, - Booms out "Amen!" with its sunset gun. - -Although Marin County was first opened up by the advent of the North -Pacific Coast Railroad in 1875, it was not until the transfer to the -North Shore that the road was operated in its present modern system. - -With the exception of the extreme North and East where the trains are -run by steam, the County is traversed by well appointed electric trains -which combine easy riding with quick transit. - -This was the first electric line in California to be operated by the -third rail system, and it has proved satisfactory in every detail. -Owing to the danger of contact with the third rail, the road is fenced -on both sides, and the rail is concealed at stations. - -At the head of Richardson's Bay, and but a short distance from Mill -Valley, is situated the North Shore Powerhouse. Here the power, -which is transmitted from Colgate, over 150 miles away, is stored. -Should there be any accident and stoppage to the power, electricity -is generated at the Powerhouse by steam, which is always kept in -readiness. - -As I gazed at the three switches, each in its separate vault (in order -to be kept fire-proof) it was difficult to realize that in the small -wires I beheld were centered power to operate trains, illuminate and -run machinery and countless other utilities. - - [Illustration: Mt. Tamalpais From Mill Valley.] - -As this, the greatest motive power in the world to-day, was long -unknown except as an element of destruction, until the man came who -harnessed the lightning and made it do man's work, so there are still -undoubtedly other forces of nature which but await the master mind to -discover their utility. - - [Illustration: The Powerhouse.] - -A short distance west of the Powerhouse, on a slightly elevated mound, -is an old orchard whose gnarled trees have sheltered for a generation -and more the yellow adobe walls of the first settler of Marin. - -But the elements of nature with relentless fingers have played about -this relic of the past, until but a small vestige is left to remind us -of what has been. - - [Illustration: An Electric Train.] - -When a grant to the Corte Madera del Presidio Rancho was given to John -Read he began building his home, and in order to construct a large, -commodious adobe, he erected a sawmill in the vicinity, and there the -lumber for his home was whipsawed. - -Thus, it is this mill, which is still standing in undisturbed repose -these many years, which gave the surrounding valley its name. - -Read had barely finished his adobe when he died, and the place -subsequently passed into the hands of the boldest bandit of Marin. - -The terror of the surrounding counties--whose very name sent a chill -even to the bravest heart--was Barnardino Garcia, otherwise called -"Three-fingered Jack." He possessed all the daring and bravery of a -dauntless marauder, and the anecdotes of his bloody adventures form -many a weird and ghostly tale when told by the flickering firelight of -a winter's night, sending the listener to bed inwardly quaking, with -eyes peering into dark corners. - - [Illustration: A Relic of the Past.] - -The most widely known of his crimes was committed shortly after the -raising of the Bear Flag at Sonoma, which proclaimed the Golden West to -be the Republic of California. - -The Bear Flag party being short of ammunition and a rumor gaining -circulation to the effect that General Vallejo had a cache of powder -stored on the Sotoyome Rancho near the present town of Healdsburg, it -was decided to send men to procure some. Cowie and Fowler volunteered -to go, although the journey was known to be a perilous one; but the -need was great, and these pioneers considered it no risk. - - [Illustration: Mill Valley Depot.] - -They were warned, however, to avoid the way through Santa Rosa, and to -confine their paths to the hills out of the ken of Garcia and his band. - -Whether the Americans failed to heed the warning, or whether Garcia's -men discovered them in the hills, will never be known. They were taken -prisoners, under a pledge that their lives would be spared, but were -finally murdered with great cruelty. - -When Cowie and Fowler did not return to Sonoma within a reasonable -time, great anxiety was felt in the little garrison. - -Finally a searching party was sent out, but it soon returned with news -of the murder. - -The Bear Flag leaders swore revenge on the murderers, and eventually -captured a number of Garcia's band, although he himself escaped. A -fugitive from justice, he journeyed south, becoming lieutenant to the -famous desperado, Joaquin Murietta, only to be subsequently shot in -1853 by Captain Harry Love's Rangers. His hand of three fingers was -sent as a trophy to the commandant. - - [Illustration: The Three Wells.] - -Thus ended the career of this bold adventurer. - - [Illustration: The Cascade.] - -Though there are many towns in Marin which command a more expansive -vista, and offer by their marine situation greater diversity in -out-door sports, still Mill Valley, nestling at the base of Tamalpais, -has proved a delightful summer retreat and home center; for, dotted in -the wooded canyons, beside the streams, or in some sunny exposure may -be found many artistic dwellings which, while possessing the advantages -of the country, are within easy access of the city. - - [Illustration: The Old Mill.] - -The most notable among the attractive residences is the home of Mr. -George T. Marsh. - -Stepping within the odd wooden gate, which reminds one of the "Toriis," -or sacred gates of Nikko, the stranger feels that he has indeed touched -a fairy wand, and been transported to the heart of the Mikado's realm. - - [Illustration: Like the Mikado's Realm.] - -Liquid streams, spanned by fantastic miniature bridges on whose banks -dwarf shrubs of various kind abound; fish ponds and islands; quaint -metal lamps beside the roadway on their low posts, that are unique -by daylight and when lit add all the witchery and charm of the floral -isle; these and numerous other features of the Orient come unexpectedly -upon the enchanted visitor, until he forgets the busy commercial -activity of the outer world, and is in fancy again wandering in the -grand old dreamy groves of Miyajima. - -Another spot deserving the attention of the visitor is the quaint -Club-House of the Out-Door Art Club. This Club has been organized by -the ladies of Mill Valley for the purpose of preserving the natural -beauties of the town and vicinity and staying, if possible, the hand -of those primitive beings who, with ruthless vandalism, cut down and -otherwise destroy the most prized of our rural possessions, our noble -trees. - -Much credit is due these energetic ladies in their worthy endeavor -to teach those who have "eyes that see not" the wondrous beauties of -Nature. - -Besides its own unique features, the chief attraction which draws to -this little burg tourists and travelers from all parts, as by a magnet, -is the fact that it is the starting point of the Mill Valley and Mt. -Tamalpais Scenic Railway. - -Leaving the station, the mountain train winds through redwood groves, -beside streams and pools, passing on its route the Hotel Blithedale, -founded many years ago by Dr. Cushing as a sanitarium, so propitious to -health is this sheltered, sunny exposure. - - [Illustration: A Reminder of the Toriis.] - - [Illustration: Some of the Quaint Lamps.] - - [Illustration: The Dining Room at Miyajima.] - -The train is operated by a steam-traction engine which combines the -ordinary cog system with an additional contrivance appropriate for -turning curves. As the train gradually climbs in its serpentine route, -and chaparral takes the place of redwood, the country below begins to -unfold; towns appear in miniature, and hills which on close approach -have distinct characteristics now merge into one another, forming an -unbroken mass which stretches west to the Pacific, on whose sapphire -bosom may frequently be seen the dim outline of the Farallon Islands, -while to the southward Point San Pedro and the City are visible, and -San Francisco Bay with intricate windings can be seen to join San Pablo -and Suisun bays on the east. - - [Illustration: A Creek in Summer.] - - [Illustration: In the Hay Field.] - - [Illustration: The Out-door Art Club.] - -It requires many trips to fully appreciate and comprehend the marvelous -diversity of views spread before one, while the variety of superb -effects to be witnessed from this mountain cannot be found in a single -visit. - -To watch the wonderful radiance of sunrise when Apollo mounts in his -chariot of fire above the Berkeley hills, or to see a billowy floor -of fog, outspread before one, obscuring the lower world and leaving -naught save this mountain peak unwrapped by the fog-mantle; and then to -witness the pale light of the moon marking a silver pathway on the Bay, -and casting grotesque shadows on the landscape; and these are but a few -of the beauties garnered here. - - [Illustration: What the Club is Trying to Prevent.] - -The road which is known as "the crookedest in the world," turns -innumerable sharp curves, finally twisting into a double bow-knot -and, extricating itself, continues winding its way up, stopping a few -moments at West Point, where passengers for Bolinas take the stage. - -Arriving at the railroad's destination, the Tavern, the passengers -alight to luncheon in its well-appointed dining-room, or lounge on the -spacious veranda, enjoying at ease the superb views revealed below. - -But if the traveller be something of a pedestrian he will take the -zigzag, cleated steps which lead from the Tavern to the top. - -Here the San Francisco Examiner's Marine Observatory is located, whose -telescope is said to sight ships seventy miles at sea. - - [Illustration: The Mountain Train.] - -But this is not the only walk on the Mountain. Many trails wind -about its sides disclosing shady nooks, a delightful cool spring and -countless other surprises, which are easily reached owing to the -guidance of artistic little signs which appear at short distances -apart, while location rods are placed at intervals on the path circling -the Mountain, enabling the visitor to find the various points of -interest without any difficulty. - - [Illustration: Through the Redwoods.] - -A few hundred feet from the Tavern is located a Government Weather -Bureau, and in its proximity is to be placed the seismograph now being -made in Strasburg, Germany, by order of the Weather Bureau Department -in Washington. The instrument is said to be on a more elaborate plan -than any in this country except the one in Washington, D. C., of which -this will be a counterpart. Some time is required for its completion, -so, presumably it will not be installed and ready to receive -earthquakes until early next year. - - [Illustration: Turning Innumerable Curves.] - -Descending the mountain on the train to West Point, we alighted and -after lunching at the Inn, mounted the stage which was bound for -Bolinas. - -The air on these mountain slopes is most exhilarating, and as we sped -along down the gradually descending roadway, the breath of azaleas was -wafted on the breeze from the canyons, while at each bend of the road -the salt zephyrs from the Ocean became more perceptible. - - [Illustration: From the Crest of Mt. Tamalpais.] - -Leaving the Monarch of Marin we soon came in sight of the white -sand-spit with Dipsea, the new resort on the beach, and the glorious -Pacific stretching thousands of miles beyond the horizon. - - [Illustration: The Tavern.] - -Alighting from the stage we embarked in a steam-launch which glided -rapidly across the Bolinas Lagoon. Steep, massive hills encircle the -Lagoon on the right, while on the left, becoming more apparent at each -glide of the launch, lies Bolinas, the town, and our destination. - - [Illustration: The Marine Observatory.] - -Owing to its small size and remote location we expected the usual -hardships which accrue from a country hotel and its numerous -incongruities; imagine our surprise therefore, when arriving at this -little town, which is a stranger as yet to railroads, to find a cozy -hostelry awaiting us. - -Though unpretentious in appearance, the Flag Staff Inn proved as -orderly and neat as any of its English prototypes. Whether it was due -to the landlord's being a Briton or not, I can not say, but there was -undoubtedly an English atmosphere about the place, and if honest Mrs. -Lupin or Mark Tapley had issued from the porch to welcome us, I should -not have been in the least surprised. - -West of the little settlement of Bolinas a neck of land extends for -a mile and a half out into the Ocean, the top forming a mesa. Owing -to the fogs abounding in this region, it is green almost the entire -year and makes splendid grazing, as in fact does all the land in the -vicinity. - - [Illustration: The Bow-Knot.] - -At the end of the mesa, some oil prospecting was being done, and at the -time of our visit there was one shaft sunk. Although there are numerous -deposits of oil to be found in and about these cliffs, the output thus -far has not exceeded a barrel a day. Yet who can tell what rich veins -may lie beneath this mesa. - -On Duxbury Reef, a succession of small rocks extending farther out into -the ocean, there is said to be found at low tide gas escaping from the -rocks, which, being ignited occasionally by fishermen, does not become -extinguished until the tide rises. - - [Illustration: A Wireless Telegraph Station.] - -At the other extremity of the town is to me the most interesting -section of Bolinas, for it was here that the first settlement was -made. The name Bolinas--then spelled Baulinas--is believed by some to -signify stormy and untamed, while others accredit it to be the name of -an Indian girl. - - [Illustration: The Bolinas Stage.] - -Which is correct may never be ascertained. Either is probable; owing -to its situation "stormy" may well apply, and as the Tamal Indians -formerly inhabited this region, and in fact spread over the entire -County, the last theory is equally feasible. To my mind they are both -correct, for might it not have been named for an Indian maiden called -Bolinas, whose nature was as stormy and untamed as the tempests which -often surge about these headlands? - - [Illustration: Bolinas Bay.] - -This Rancho Bolinas first belonged to Rafael Garcia, who disposed of -the grant to his brother-in-law, Gregorio Briones, of whom tradition -says there were few so honest, upright and brave as this dignified son -of Spain, who died respected and beloved by all who knew him. - -It was in the days before the "Gringo" came, when peace and plenty -reigned throughout this land, and hospitality was proverbial to every -household, that Gregorio Briones settled in Bolinas. - - [Illustration: A Glimpse of Bolinas.] - -To be a skillful horseman and expert vaquero was all that was then -required, for as cattle could live and thrive all the year round on -the hills, there was no necessity for making hay for winter feed, or -building stables for winter shelter; therefore, with little labor -requisite, the natural consequence was the easy, careless life -led by the Californians. Thus their spare energies were devoted to -horse-racing, dancing, gambling, and kindred amusements. - -Horses roamed the hills untethered and a caballero's first occupation -in the morning was to catch a horse, saddle and bridle it, and either -use or keep it tied up at his door during the day, ready for use at any -moment, as both young and old rarely went from one house to another, no -matter how short the distance, except on horseback. - - [Illustration: Flag Staff Inn.] - -As to the riders themselves, there were probably no better horsemen in -the world than the native Californians. - -On a fair spring morning in the month of May, 1850, a single horse, -with two riders, might have been seen threading its way up the steep -mountain trail leading from Bolinas to San Rafael. The bright, girlish -face of the first rider peered wistfully from beneath the soft folds -of her mantilla, while the young caballero, on the crupper behind, -whispered to her in those sweet, melodious tones unheard save from -a liquid Spanish tongue. Of the purport of their whispers we can but -judge, for on arriving at the Mission they were greeted by a joyous -peal of wedding bells. - -The groom was Francisco Sebrean, the bride the beautiful Senorita -Maria Briones, daughter of the pioneer. This was the first marriage in -Bolinas and the celebration which followed their return to the Rancho -was the most notable ever witnessed in that region. Dancing, feasting, -music and gayety continued until the gray dawn appeared to touch the -surrounding hilltops and proclaim the approach of another day. - - [Illustration: Sand Dunes.] - - [Illustration: The Breakers.] - -Stopping at the home of the only remaining daughter of Don Briones, -now a dignified, delightful, old lady, with the charming manners and -graces of a true descendant of old Spain, we procured directions and -soon found the oldest house in Bolinas. Although this was not the first -built there, it is the oldest standing, and was occupied by the Briones -family, Don Gregorio dying many years ago, while his wife, the Senora -Briones, lived there until 1903, reaching her one hundred and seventh -birthday--which goes to prove that it is the simple, natural life which -begets old age. - - [Illustration: The Oil Well.] - -If one is a good pedestrian and has a desire to get acquainted with -nature untamed "without her hair combed" he should take the Lone Tree -Trail leading from Bolinas over the hills, through the canyons and -along the ridges back to the starting point, Mill Valley. - - [Illustration: Where Don Gregorio Died.] - - [Illustration: Thad Welch's Cabin.] - -In a little "Steep Ravine" amid the high hills, and but a short -distance from the Ocean and Bolinas, stands the solitary cabin of the -man who by the magic of his brush first awoke the outer world to a -realization of the beauties and possibilities of this region. - - [Illustration: Duxbury Reef.] - -With the hand of a master, Thad Welch caught the rare effects abounding -here, which have delighted and won the admiration of all nature-lovers, -and linked his name inseparably with Marin. While at present residing -in another portion of the County, the cabin which he formerly occupied -here is in a state of neglect, but while his little abode may perish, -his pictures will live and be cherished in the ages yet to come. - -Some distance from the Steep Ravine the trail descends an abrupt, -wooded hillside, at the foot of which lies the Redwood Canyon. For this -forest of giant redwoods, comprising six hundred acres, negotiations -were pending toward making it a national reserve, but the efforts -proved unsuccessful. Though of smaller dimensions than the Calaveras -Big Trees, these redwoods gain by beauty of situation what they lack in -size. - -The Canyon runs diagonally with the sea coast and has its rise in one -of Tamalpais' western ribs, from which a railroad similar to the Mount -Tamalpais Railway is under course of construction, connecting the -Mountain with the Canyon. - - [Illustration: The Lone Tree.] - -Its present owners, Messrs. Kent & Cushing, intend to erect a hotel -at the terminus of the new road, and the building, on which it is said -will be expended some fifty or sixty thousand dollars, will be a fully -equipped, sumptuous modern hostelry. - - [Illustration: Thad Welch at Work.] - -It is to be hoped that the march of civilization, which so often leaves -nature's handiwork crushed, broken and even obliterated, will spare -this grand, majestic forest in which beauty now reigns supreme. - -Bending low over the little stream which winds through this canyon huge -sprays of azaleas filled the air with their delicate perfume; on the -banks lacy wood warriors and the hardy sword-ferns mingled in graceful -profusion, while the flickering sunlight filtering aslant through the -tree tops fell on the transparent hazel leaves lending a soft, green -glint to a neighboring pool which rippled every now and then by the -action of numerous trout catching flies on its surface. - - [Illustration: Among the Redwoods.] - -Wandering beneath these perennial columns, these huge monoliths of -whose birth there is no record, one feels as if treading the grandest -of cathedral aisles, and that in truth "The groves were God's first -temples" and "Solitude is the veritable audience chamber of the -Creator." - -No echo follows our footsteps on the soft needles and oxalis and save -for the murmuring of the little stream and the occasional calling of a -mourning dove in the tree tops above there is no sound. Here, alone in -these solitudes, the higher self--the soul--strikes off its shackles, -and expands to the very infinitude of things, through nature to the -Infinite. - -Near the southeastern shores of Marin lies the largest and most -picturesque of the three islands which adorn San Francisco Bay. Though -lawfully a portion of Marin County, Angel Island, separated from the -mainland by Raccoon Straits, besides being set aside as a Government -reserve, is therefore seldom classed with the County, and usually ranks -with her sister islands, Alcatraz and Yerba Buena. - - [Illustration: Primal Solitudes.] - -But a sketch of Marin, however cursory, would be incomplete without -her southern isle, for besides the United States Barracks, situated on -the western part of the Island, there is located in a northern cove -the Federal quarantine station, that most necessary adjunct of San -Francisco, which prevents contagion by quenching the pestilence often -brought to our shores from the Orient and South American ports. - -Besides its present significance the Island has another and far older -claim on our attention. - -In the summer of 1775, Juan de Ayala, a lieutenant of the Royal Spanish -Navy, was given a commission from Junipero Serra and Bucareli, the -Mexican Viceroy, to proceed to "the arm of the sea" lying north of -Monterey, which had been twice viewed by the padres from the land, to -ascertain if it were a canal or bay, and make a survey of it. - -Pursuant to these instructions Ayala cautiously crept up the Coast -and on the ninth day sighted the narrow passage which is now known the -world over as the Golden Gate. - - [Illustration: In the Canyon.] - -A crude launch was sent to explore the opening, which was found to be -deep and without obstructions. By the time the launch returned it had -grown dark, nevertheless Ayala headed for the Bay and on the night of -August 5, 1775, the San Carlos sailed in through the Strait, the first -ship that ever passed the pillared passage or entered what is now known -as the Bay of San Francisco. - -Having entered safely, Ayala moored his vessel just inside the Bay, and -the next morning, looking around him, selected an island not far from -the entrance as a convenient spot to make his headquarters. - - [Illustration: Angel Island from the Mainland.] - -Upon examination, he found a suitable place for mooring his vessel, -also wood and water in abundance. This Island was then named Nuestra -Senora de Los Angeles, the appellation which it still bears, though -shortened to Angel Island. - -On the mainland, directly across from the Island, lies Tiburon, the -ferry and terminus of the California Northwestern Railroad. Besides the -Company's shops, Tiburon consists mainly of stores--in short all that -is included in the usual "Water Front." - -The most interesting object in Tiburon is on the road between -that place and Belvedere. This is none other than the remains of a -remarkable old hulk, now beached and converted into a habitation. -Besides its unique appearance, there is an interesting tale connected -with the Tropic Bird which is something like the following: - -"Early in the year 1850 the good ship, Tropic Bird, Captain Homans -skipper, set sail from Gloucester, Mass., with a cargo of general -produce bound for the Golden Gate. On board was a mixed crew, seafaring -men and land lubbers, all having but one hope, one idea--the far-famed -gold fields of California. A good true ship was the Tropic Bird and a -good true man her skipper, who had with him his brother. - -"One day is very much like another on a long ocean voyage,--when the -wind holds good and the weather is fair; but there came a time when -ominous murmurings, gathering force each day, the echo of a mutinous -discontent, reached the quick ears of the young Captain and his -brother. - - [Illustration: The Tiburon Depot.] - -"The cargo was a valuable one. They were on the high seas. If the crew -stood together against the two men they were as nothing in their hands. - -"One night the cloud burst, there was a loud cry from the first mate, -and in a second every one was in the scrimmage. - -"The Captain rushed on deck. Though light, he was strong and a famous -wrestler. As soon as he appeared he was pounced upon by the leader of -the mutiny, called Dutch Dick, a big, heavy, slouching fellow. With -almost superhuman strength the gallant Captain disarmed and stunned his -foe after a heavy tussle. - -"Men were moaning, yelling, dying on all sides, when suddenly above -this howling, cursing, blood-thirsty mob, there was a bright, piercing -flash, the sharp battalion crack, crack of thunder. - -"The storm was on them. No time now for murder and rapine. It was -a battle against the elements. The Captain was up roaring orders to -his men. Those who could, obeyed and worked with a will in the common -danger. - - [Illustration: "The Tropic Bird."] - -"Battered, tempest-torn, thrown hither and thither, a mere cockle shell -in the hands of God's elements, the staunch ship, skilfully handled by -her skipper, just managed to reach the Golden Gate. - - [Illustration: In the Cove.] - -"Water-logged and mauled, the gallant Tropic Bird was then unfit to -further cope with the elements, and, after being converted into a -boarding house at the foot of Telegraph Hill by her courageous Captain, -she was later sold and beached at Tiburon, where she now rests, her -labors o'er, a worthy ship with a peaceful, useful old age." - - [Illustration: Belvedere.] - -Belvedere--beautiful Belvedere it is called, and with justice, too; -for who could view this thickly wooded hillside with its charming -villas without exclaiming Beautiful! These villas are interspersed with -graceful irregularity amid their leafy setting; the sparkling water at -their feet, gay in summer, with house-boats, launches, yachts and other -craft is resonant of one theme, united in one chord--the care-free, -happy, guileless merriment which does more to erase the worry lines -begotten of cities than all the lotions ever prepared. And this, in -truth, is the veritable home of the sportsman, for across the cove -on the Tiburon side is situated the Corinthian Yacht Club, famous in -yachting annals. - -However gay this little cove may appear by day it is by the pale -light of the moon that Belvedere, like Venice, is at her best; for the -harsher lines of fact are mellowed, and imagination gives the floating -habitations a fairy aspect, while the strains of the military band from -the Island but lend to the fantasy. - -On the opposite side of Belvedere is situated one of the most -prosperous industries conducted in Marin County. - -Nestling at the base of the cliffs on an extensive wharf built for the -purpose are the buildings of the Union Fish Company. The Company has -several fishing stations in Alaska, the most extensive of which are on -the Shumagin and Popof Islands. A schooner plying between the stations -and this port brings the fish direct to the fishery, where they are -prepared for use. - - [Illustration: An Artistic Church.] - -At the time of our visit, the schooner, which had arrived but a few -days previously, was unloading and we were thus fortunate enough to see -the evolution of the codfish from the time it leaves the hold of the -ship until it is packed in neat boxes ready for shipment. - -There were four hundred tons, or one hundred and seventy thousand fish -on the vessel. When one thinks that each fish is caught by hook and -line, the amount of work represented seems enormous, but this is a mere -bagatelle compared to the process following. - -On leaving the hold they are first thrown into vats of brine for -rinsing, then loaded on small cars operated on a track and run into the -building; from thence they are laid on immense racks in the sun to dry. -If not for immediate shipment they are stored in huge vats of brine. - - [Illustration: Unloading Codfish.] - -In one large room there were many men at long tables, engaged in -skinning and boning the fish, and the celerity and skill with which -this was accomplished are marvelous to watch. The refuse, which -formerly was discarded as being useless, is now utilized, the bones -being made into a fertilizer, while the skins are used for glue. - -There are seventy-five men employed in this establishment, and the -order and cleanliness of the place testify to its able management. - -Owing to the inclemency of the weather during the winter months, a -steam-drying apparatus was in the course of construction by which the -fish can be dried with safety in the rainy season. - -Leaving Tiburon, a short ride on the California Northwestern Railway -brought us to Greenbrae, a small station, uninteresting in itself -and unimportant save as the place from which is reached that huge -institution known as the state prison, San Quentin. - - [Illustration: Drying Codfish.] - -Situated on Point San Quentin, which extends into upper San Francisco -Bay, with round guard towers perched on the hill overlooking it, and -a twenty-foot wall enclosing its eight acres, the prison would seem -impregnable and unpropitious for an outbreak. - -The high somber buildings, which are of red brick, have been added to -and remodeled at intervals without any given plan, and thus they form -an irregular mass, interspersed with paved courts and narrow cells. - - [Illustration: San Quentin.] - -A large, square plot is devoted to grass and flowers and lends a -cheering tone to the grim structures surrounding it. One of these, a -tall edifice with a succession of iron doors opening on to small, long -balconies, reached by narrow steps, is called the Tanks. - -The average cell in this building is eight by twelve feet in -dimensions. In each of these five men are stowed--one could not -say accommodated for the narrow bunks placed in tiers, with a still -narrower passageway between, vividly suggested the over-crowded lodging -houses of Mulberry Bend, which Jacob Riis's perseverance eradicated. - -In other buildings are cells, each of which is thirty by twenty-seven -feet, which contain twenty-six men, and one cell, of thirty-six by -twenty-one feet, lodges forty-eight convicts. - - [Illustration: Point San Quentin, as Seen from Mt. Tamalpais.] - -Though the system of ventilation is by means of flues attached to the -ceiling and door, still these rooms, in which are herded individuals -of all ages and classes, must become exceedingly foul and unhealthful; -while the opportunity which this congregate system affords the -prisoners for concocting plots and outbreaks is undeniably assured. - -Of the prison industries the jute mill is of sole importance to the -outer world; all other products being consumed there. Some eight -hundred convicts labor at the mill, and five million sacks are annually -sent from the prison. - -There are paint and tin shops which supply all the tin-cups, hand -basins, pails, etc., used in the institution; tailor shops in which -are made all the clothes; carpenter shops for repairing and furniture, -while sixty pairs of shoes are turned out each week from the boot -shop. In the machine shops where are manufactured all the needles used -in sewing the jute bags half a dozen excellent sewing machines were -recently made. - -The extensive laundry where numerous Chinese convicts are employed, -is only one of the many evidences of cleanliness witnessed in this -institution, where order and system are apparent to even the casual -observer. But however orderly, systematic and cleanly a prison may be -kept, that is only one means toward eliminating crime; for so long -as we continue in our congregate system of indiscriminate herding -together of all classes of offenders so long will our penitentiaries -be hot-houses for fostering crime. Instead of eliminating, we confirm; -instead of inciting decency and self-respect, we incite indecency and -rebellion. - - [Illustration: Lagunitas, San Rafael's Water Supply.] - -At the time of our visit there were in San Quentin about a dozen -lads, the youngest but fourteen years of age, imprisoned on charges of -murder, who, had it not been for the supervision of Warden Tompkins, -would have been placed with the confirmed, hardened criminals. - - [Illustration: Trolling on the Lake.] - -The State makes no provision for these offenders, and, unless as -in this instance they are separated by the individual action of the -Warden, they would ere now be proficient in the lore of crime. - -Crime is contagious, because thought is contagious. - -By this it is not meant that you and I, if we mix with criminals, will -become criminally inclined; because our ego--or soul--not having any -prenatal defect or susceptibility to crime will be unresponsive to its -influence. - -But to a criminal, whether he be a first offender or not, the -pernicious, indiscriminate companionship of fellow convicts who suggest -crime in its various distorted shapes to his abnormal, defective mind, -will plant seed-thoughts which thus sown thrive and grow until we have -the confirmed criminal. - -If a criminal is so receptive to suggestions of evil, and his criminal -capacity is so strengthened and fixed by the ideas and emotions that he -entertains, would not counter-suggestions have just as potent an effect -on the individual? - - [Illustration: A Marin Landscape. - (From the Original by Thad Welch.)] - -If, through the channels of thought, he is susceptible to maleficent -influences will he not be equally responsive, through the same medium, -to the beneficial? - - [Illustration: Mt. Tamalpais from Ross Valley.] - -Granting this to be true, would it not be well to surround the convict -with all that stands for advancement, and through intelligent education -and suggestion awaken the latent good which is in each individual, no -matter how dormant and perverted it may be? - -By education is not meant the rudimentary school education, for many -criminals are proficient in that, but the far more important study -of self-respect, honesty, veracity, industry, unselfishness, and an -appreciation and proper use of the things that are. - -Methinks if with the contemplated enlargement to the prison an -educative, segregative, industrial system similar to that adopted -with such marked success in the Elmira Reformatory, New York, were -inculcated in our state prison there would be less "recedivists"--fewer -many-term offenders--and the fifteen thousand dollars which it -costs the State monthly to conduct a prison would not be devoted to -confirming criminals. - -Although Marin County is sparsely populated, owing to its large tracts -of hilly surface and consequent non-agricultural facilities, still the -towns within its borders are of average population, the largest, San -Rafael, comprising five thousand inhabitants. - -Besides being the county seat, San Rafael has the distinction of having -once been a mission settlement, and though the church has long since -mingled with the dust, the memory of its bygone glory clings like the -lichen of the remaining pear trees to the spot which knew it in its -prime; when to the clanging of the mellow toned Spanish bells, the -neofites, the children of the soil, would kneel in meek devotion before -the sacred altar whose fires, like their lives, have long been quenched -but appear again, let us hope, in their successive higher spheres. - -Except in memories San Rafael is essentially modern. - -The factory and the loom form no part of its existence, and with the -exception of two brick kilns and a planing mill on the outskirts, the -town is without industries. - -Therefore, sheltered as it is by beautiful rolling hills on three -sides, with a mild climate and not even a street-car, as yet, to -disturb the stillness, San Rafael, like Ross Valley, is considered an -ideal spot for homes. - -Besides its handsome residences and long shaded avenues, which afford -much enjoyment for driving, San Rafael is noted for its excellent -schools. - - [Illustration: A Home in Ross Valley.] - -These not only consist of the splendid public schools, but of private -institutions, notably the Hitchcock and Mt. Tamalpais Military -Academies for boys, and the excellent Dominican Convent for girls, -besides the St. Vincent and Presbyterian orphan asylums in the vicinity -procure for the town the name of an educational center. - -A short time ago, Mr. Andrew Carnegie donated to Marin's county seat -the sum of twenty-five thousand dollars for a public library, the plans -of which are now under consideration. - -That her residents are not less generous than the famous philanthropist -was forcibly shown on April 29, 1905, when Mr. and Mrs. John F. Boyd -transferred to the town some seventy acres for a memorial park. The -occasion of its dedication was marked by able addresses from the -"Wizard of the Plant World," Mr. Luther Burbank, United States Judge W. -W. Morrow, and Judge Thomas J. Lennon. - - [Illustration: A Shaded Avenue.] - -Abounding in natural verdure, artistically embellished and converted -into a perpetual pleasure ground, the Boyd Memorial Park seems a -fitting testimonial to the memory of the sons of its donators. - -While noted as an educational center, San Rafael also has the unique -distinction of being the Gretna Green of the Coast; and the blushing -brides and happy grooms united here exceed in numbers those from the -erstwhile famous European village. - -To this charming little northern settlement from all the surrounding -counties and various parts of the state they come to plight their -troth, averaging, it is said, five a day; "and the best and most -remarkable part of it all is," Marin's genial Judge informed me, "they -turn out all right," and, really, I suppose he ought to know. - -Notable among the many charming residences in San Rafael is Fairhills, -a summer home of Mr. A. W. Foster. - -It is surrounded by a stately garden where the choicest plants abound -in graceful profusion, blending one with another in a perfect harmony -of colors, while the majestic trees, spreading a deep shade over the -sloping velvety lawn, are reminiscent of a Warwickshire landscape. - - [Illustration: Dress Parade, Hitchcock Military Academy.] - - [Illustration: Theological Seminary, San Anselmo.] - -To the westward, wooded hills--truly fair hills--with their ever -changing, hazy tones, are visible from the spacious veranda, and the -perpetual calmness and majesty of their lofty slopes would seem to -impart some of themselves to the beholder, for, as Rousseau says, "Our -meditations gain a character of sublimity and grandeur proportioned to -the objects around us." - - [Illustration: Dominican Convent.] - -Although essentially a resident settlement, the tourist will find -ample accommodations at Hotel Rafael, sometimes called the "Del Monte -of the North." Though of smaller dimensions, and with less sumptuous -appointments and surroundings than the southern hostelry, Hotel Rafael, -within easy access of the City, is more convenient for those who enjoy -the country, yet never leave their business for its sake. - -While the Assyrians, Babylonians, Greeks and later Gauls and Romans -were weaving the first few threads of our planet's history in the -old world, the aborigines of America roamed our trackless, primeval -forests, boundless save for two shimmering oceans and a blue canopy -overhead. - - [Illustration: Court House, San Rafael.] - -Fearless, they plunged into the thickets, swam the streams, hunted -game, caught the bear and bison, trapped the fowl, and dauntlessly -lived on in fear of neither nature, beast nor man--primitive--just -a savage, but possessing the fundamental requisites from which all -civilizations, sects, isms, or communities have been evolved--a human -being with a soul. - -Therefore the red man is to America what the cave man is to Europe--the -father of his country. - -In the history of our State the aborigines played an all-important -part, as the founding of the missions by the Friars was with the avowed -intention of reclaiming these children of the wilderness, to teach them -civilization. - - [Illustration: Escalle Vineyard and Winery.] - - [Illustration: "Fairhills."] - -The first mention made of the Indians in Marin County is found in an -old legend which states that about the time of the erection of the -Mission at San Francisco a party of Spaniards crossed the Straits at -what is now known as Lime Point and traveled northward. It was late -in the season, and they found no streams of running water until they -arrived at Olompali, so named from a great and powerful tribe of -Indians who dwelt at this place, the Olompalis. Here they were kindly -received by the natives, and all their wants were supplied as far as it -lay in their power. The party was so well entertained that the leaders -decided to remain a fortnight and recruit their horses and become -thoroughly rested, preparatory to proceeding on their arduous journey. -In return for the kindness received, they taught the Indians how to -make adobe brick and construct a house. - -That history corroborates this legend is shown in an old chronicle by -the biographer of Junipero Serra, Father Palou, which says that "in -1776, after the Presidio and before the Mission (in San Francisco) were -established, an exploration of the interior was organized as usual by -sea (the bay), and land." - -Thus, in the northeast corner of the County, near Novato, was built the -first adobe house north of San Francisco Bay, on the Olompali Rancho, -owned by the late Dr. Burdell. - - [Illustration: Fourth Street, San Rafael.] - -The first adobe has long since disappeared, the last mention found of -it being a remark of General Vallejo's when, some thirty years ago, -on passing the Olompali Rancho and pointing to a crumbling adobe he -remarked to a companion, "That is over a hundred years old." - -But the adobe that concerns us, the long, low, rambling adobe, is -still standing in good condition and occupied by Dr. Burdell's family. -This was supposedly the second built and is accredited to have been -constructed by the last chief of the tribe, Camillo Ynitia. - - [Illustration: Entrance to Hotel Rafael.] - -Camillo, after obtaining three successive patents for the Rancho, first -from Spain, then from Mexico, and lastly from the United States, sold -it for five thousand dollars, which he was believed to have buried -in the vicinity. Refusing to divide the proceeds of the Rancho, and -furthermore to disclose the spot where the gold was buried, Camillo was -subsequently murdered by his brother. - - [Illustration: Hotel Rafael.] - -The Olompali Rancho is beautifully situated, lying as it does at the -base of Mt. Olompali which is believed to be an extinct volcano. - - [Illustration: The Late Owner of the Olompali.] - -Mortars found five feet under ground in the river bed, together with -sand, mud, gravel, pebbles, and cement strata on the mountain side, -testify to volcanic action. - -From this mountain which formerly, in unknown ages emitted hot, -sulphuric gases from its bosom, now runs a clear and limpid stream, a -perpetual penance to nature for the havoc it once wrought. - -When the Spaniards first visited the County, there were said to be -thirty distinct tribes of Indians, each with its separate chief; while -their language or dialect differed materially. - -That they lived on mussels, sturgeon, and game from the marshes, is -evidenced by the remains found in the huge shell mounds distributed -throughout the County. - - [Illustration: The Last of the Race.] - -What these mounds are and how they became so, is merely a matter of -conjecture, although the scientists of the University of California -and Stanford are revealing additional clues from time to time as new -deposits are discovered. - - [Illustration: A Wood Interior.] - -In the Marin mounds have been found mortars and pestles, queer old -pipes, beads of wampum, oyster picks, skulls, and in many instances -entire skeletons, while the arrow-points testify to certain warlike -propensities, although on the whole they were said to be peaceful -tribes. - - [Illustration: Summer in the Redwoods.] - -The bows which they used with such celerity and skill were uniquely -fashioned; the cord consisting of the nerves taken from a deer's back. -The Marin Indians and in fact all the California tribes, dwelt in small -huts built of willows with tules or rushes, and formed by taking a few -poles, placing them in a circle, and finally weaving them together to -a conical point, giving, when completed, the appearance of inverted -baskets. - -They were usually constructed on the banks of streams, and, being -small, were easily warmed in winter. - -The aborigines' knowledge of the proper treatment of disease was -very limited. Roots and herbs were sometimes used as remedies but the -"sweat-house" (temescal) was the principal reliance in desperate cases. - - [Illustration: A Charming Drive.] - -One of these sweat-houses was found on the Nicasio Rancheria, just over -the Olompali Mountains. - -It consisted of a large circular excavation, covered with a roof of -boughs, plastered with mud, having a hole on one side for an entrance, -another in the roof to serve as a chimney. - -A fire having been lit in the center, the sick were placed there to -undergo a sweat bath for many hours, to be succeeded by a plunge in the -ice-cold waters of a neighboring stream. - -This treatment was their cure-all, and whether it killed or -relieved the patient depended upon the nature of his disease and his -constitution. - - [Illustration: Browsing.] - -It seems but fitting that this County, which formerly was a favorite -rendezvous of the Indians, should derive its name from a famous chief -of the Lacatuit Indians, who frequented the southern part of the -Peninsula. - -Between the years 1815 and 1824 Chief Marin, aided by his people, -is said to have vanquished the Spaniards in several skirmishes for -supremacy. Being finally captured by his enemies, and making his -escape, Marin took shelter on a tiny island in upper San Francisco Bay. -This island being subsequently called after him, communicated its name -to the adjacent mainland. - -Falling into the hands of his foes a second time, he barely escaped -being put to death through the interference of the priests at the -Mission San Rafael. - -While surveying the County several years ago, Mr. Jacob Leese had -with him as assistants the old Indian chief, Marin, and some of his -followers. It became necessary for the surveyor to establish an initial -point on the top of Mt. Tamalpais, and he wished Marin and some others -to go up with him. To this they made strong objections, stating that -the top of the Mountain was inhabited by evil spirits, and no one could -go up there and come back alive. After vainly trying to persuade them -to accompany him, Mr. Leese, finally decided to go up alone, which he -did, the Indians prophesying that they never expected to see him again. - -On reaching the top and accomplishing his purpose, he was puzzled to -know how he could convince the redskins of having reached the summit. -To do this he placed a large limb across an old dead tree, thus forming -a cross which could be seen in the Valley below. He then descended and -directed the attention of the Indians to the cross. - - [Illustration: A Characteristic Stream.] - -Prior to this, Marin had been considered by his followers as the -bravest man in the world. He therefore found that it would never do for -him to be afraid to attempt what a white man had accomplished. - -Marin then determined, against the most earnest entreaties of his men, -to go up where the white man had been. Tearing himself from his men he -ascended the Mountain alone and when there had to study how he should -convince his followers of the fact. - -Unwinding his outer blanket he suspended it on the arm of Mr. Leese's -cross, having done which, he descended the Mountain. - -On seeing him without his garment, his followers concluded that he had -been robbed by the Devil himself; but pointing out to them his blanket -waving upon the cross, much joy was expressed over his restoration to -them as the bravest of the brave. - -The foregoing tale is only one of many which illustrate the profound -superstitions prevailing among the Indians. - -Certain rocks and mountains were regarded as sacred, while the grizzly -was held in superstitious awe, nothing inducing them to eat its flesh. - - [Illustration: Relics From a Shell Mound.] - - [Illustration: Haying Time.] - -The idea of a future state was universal among the California Indians, -for as they expressed it, "as the moon died and came to life again -so man came to life after death," and they believed that "the hearts -of good chiefs went up to the sky and were changed into stars to keep -watch over their tribes on earth." - -A short distance from the Olompali Rancho is Novato, a small town which -until a few years ago possessed the largest apple orchard in the world. - -At the present time the New York and the Novato French cheese factories -are its only noteworthy industries. The latter, which is representative -of a thriving, modern cheese-factory, is conveniently located beside -the California Northwestern Railway on whose cars the local shipments -are made twice each day. - -But this local trade is by no means the factory's sole outlet, for -besides supplying the Coast and the East as far as Iowa (where another -branch is located), cheese is exported to the Hawaiian Islands, Japan, -China and other foreign countries. - - [Illustration: Apple Picking in Marin.] - -In this unpretentious building, in which but twelve men are employed, -fifty thousand five-pound cases of cheese are manufactured a year, or -a little more than four thousand (cases) a month. In the spring from -twelve hundred to fourteen hundred pounds of cheese are manufactured -each day. - -Besides its famous Circle Brand Breakfast Cheese, the Novato French -Cheese Factory manufactures large quantities of Fromage de Brie, -Neufch, Sierra, Fromage de Chanembert, Schlosskase and Kummelkase. - -On a tiny island amid the marshes in this, the extreme northeastern -corner of Marin, is located the Miramonte Club. A sportsman's club -in every particular, it is very advantageously situated, for around -these northern marshes the game is very plentiful and the sportsman is -usually rewarded for his labor. - - [Illustration: Cheese Industry.] - -Besides the fowl for the larder, there are many other birds about -the marshes. In summer redwinged blackbirds, each with its scarlet -shoulder-patch, may frequently be seen, while the herons with their -long, ungainly legs are often visible wading in the pools, or standing -on some lonely reef, like solitary sentinels. - -In the winter, great flocks of little sandpipers frequent this region; -their white breasts gleaming in the sun in the course of their graceful -evolutions. Then there are the slender beaked curlews which, like the -heron, wade about the pools in search of food. - -In the fall and winter the salt-water marshes have a peculiar charm not -only for the sportsmen who delight in the abounding bird-life, but for -the humble excursionists who, gunless, admire the marvelous diversity -of coloring displayed in the grotesquely shaped marshland. - -For no other weed, grass or vine assumes a greater variety of tints -than the marsh vegetation, which from the dull russet of summer changes -to a combination of olive, purple, magenta, copper, and violet, so -harmoniously blended that, besides charming the observer, it lures many -a local artist from his studio in town. - - [Illustration: Young Herons.] - - [Illustration: On the Marsh.] - -In Marin the feathered songsters hold a unique place, for, as the -county is sparsely populated, possessing many wild, secluded valleys, -and unnumbered rolling hills covered with virgin forests, it is but -natural that the birds should congregate in great numbers, reveling in -the solitude which man invariably destroys. - -If the traveler is interested in these woodland tenants, and would -learn something of their haunts and life, he should visit one who knows -them as Thoreau knew all the wild and untamed things of nature. - -A short distance from Fairfax the San Geronimo Valley, nestling among -the hills, is a fitting location for this naturalist and bird-lover. - -Though a taxidermist of much skill, Mr. Charles Allen is more widely -known among ornithologists by that little fairy creature which makes -its appearance in the early spring, known as Allen's Hummingbird. - -Although similar in point of size, it is in its coloring that Allen's -Hummer may be distinguished from other hummingbirds, for its green -back, ruffus-tail, streaked with black, dark-wings and ruffus head, -easily separate it from other varieties. - - [Illustration: R. H. Hotaling's Residence on "Sleepy Hollow Ranch."] - -To a reflective mind there is no time of the year more joyous than -spring. All nature seems gay and full of promise. Hope is vibrant in -the air, and enters into the nature of the receptive man through more -senses than science has yet named or discovered--an unnamed sense -which is neither sight, nor sound, nor touch, nor intuition, a vibrant -unseen force which is current throughout the universe, connecting man, -unknowingly, to every tree, shrub, and atom. Thus, in the spring one -feels that: - - "There's a chorus in the valleys and an anthem on the hills - There's an echo from the music which our inner being thrills - Till we long to journey outward where no other foot has trod, - And join in the song of worship at the shrine of Nature's - God." - -Spring is synonymous with the return of the birds, and their blythe -little songs are but another promise of hope and expectation. - -Following close upon the return of Allen's Hummingbird is the little -piliolated warbler with his green back, pale, sulphur yellow breast, -and tiny "pee wit" call. - - [Illustration: The Taxidermist of Marin.] - -When the climbing roses are becoming gay with blossoms, our old -friends, the linnets, returning from their winter's sojourn in lower -California, begin to build their nests. - -A walk in the woods in the early morning or evening will acquaint -one with another spring bird, Vaux's Swift, invariably seen about the -streams. - - [Illustration: A Quail's Nest.] - -In our hasty glimpse of the birds, it is impossible to enumerate all -the feathered flock, and the renewal of a few old acquaintances will -have to suffice. A very characteristic summer inhabitant of Marin's -woodlands is the Red Shafted Flicker, a large bird, conspicuous when -flying for its gay plumage, and often seen about the stumps of rotten -trees, in the holes of which it makes its nest. While strolling -in the woods we are often startled by a sharp rat-tat-tat on a -neighboring alder, and on close approach a flutter of wings discloses -a black-and-white creature with a dash of scarlet on his head. This is -Harris's Woodpecker which makes the silent woods resound to its noisy -rapping. A harsh, squawking call, a swift flight of blue wings, and -an ensuing, noisy chatter announce the saucy California jay--the least -lovable to my mind of all the California birds. He is the Rockefeller -of the bird-world, consuming and destroying the eggs of his fellow -birds, leaving destruction and ruin in his wake in the shape of -desolate, broken nests. A pleasing contrast to this sharp, unruly bird, -is the large, beautiful orange mottled Bullock's Oriole, who fills the -air near sundown, with his rich, melodious warble, which he repeats -with never-tiring zeal. - - [Illustration: A Humming Bird's Nest.] - - [Illustration: Little Songsters.] - -Of the fall birds, the crows and Brewer's Blackbirds are the most -notable. Though the former are with us the entire year, it is in the -fall, in flocking time, that their loud caw-caw-caw is heard as in -bands they circle above the tree-tops; while Brewer's Blackbirds, -sleek, glossy fellows, after foraging throughout the day in the -valleys, soar to some huge dead pine tree and chatter through the -twilight hours, flying when night arrives, with one accord, to a patch -of tules in some pond where they settle for the night. - - [Illustration: A Sportsman.] - -Of the non-migrating birds, the little dark brown Wren Tit, inhabitant -of thickets; the dull gray and white Titmouse, frequenter of oaks; the -friendly little California Chickadee; not to mention the great horned -Owls with their deep hoo-hoo-hoo, the barn-owls with their treble -screech, and lastly the beautiful oft-abused Quail, are but a few of -the interesting native inhabitants of Marin. - - [Illustration: Near to Nature's Heart.] - -Owing to the widely scattered population in the northern part of -Marin County, this section is consequently more wild and natural in -appearance than the southern half. - -Lying at the base of a range of high hills which slope somewhat -abruptly to the Ocean are the most interesting natural phenomena in -this region. This is a chain of sparkling lakes, three in number, -which at first view on descending the precipitous roadway seem to be -connected with the Ocean so near its edge do they appear. - -Upon close approach, however, we discovered them to be of fresh water -and at an elevation of nine hundred feet above sea level, but their -close proximity to the Ocean and the cavernous inlets opening from the -sea would intimate their former connection. - - [Illustration: A Bend in The Road.] - -On the shore of the largest of these, Shafter Lake, is located, amid -the luxuriant copse wood, the Point Reyes Sportsmen's Club House. As -the lakes are stocked with black bass, land-locked salmon, and various -kinds of trout the angler is a familiar figure in the vicinity; and the -abounding deer, quail, ducks, and snipe, attract the huntsman, while -the beauty of these unique lakes and their picturesque environs, though -little known to the general public, induce many a local pedestrian to -take the twelve-mile tramp from Olema, through the forests over the -steep ridges and down among the chemisal and sagebrush to this Ocean -retreat. - - [Illustration: One of the Sparkling Lakes.] - -Some four miles northwest of the lakes a narrow valley, lined by -massive barren hills, winds its way to the Pacific. Mammoth oaks adorn -its wild and tangled glades, huge redwoods lift their lofty tops to the -sky, while ferns and trailing vines festoon the banks and rocks with -such luxuriance that the whole seems a riot of contending greens. - -Winding in and out like a silver thread among the stately trees and -saplings is a little stream which fills the air with freshness and the -cadence of a song, while hanging in fantastic, airy festoons from the -trees which look in consequence like bearded Druids, covering trunks -and branches, spreading its delicate traceries on the rocks, and -abounding on every conceivable object are such masses of vari-colored -moss that one would feign exclaim, "Surely this should be called Moss, -not Bear Valley!" for while the latter roving inhabitants have long -since disappeared, the former is and no doubt will remain, in evidence -until the forest is no more. - -It is necessary to see this Valley in order to comprehend its beauty. - - [Illustration: Shafter Lake.] - -One can drive through its cool depths on a finely graded road amid -thousands of majestic trees, while here and there an open space reveals -the sunlight and the blue sky overhead in contrast with the dim, -uncertain light pervading its woodland stretches. - -No lover of the beautiful can regret a jaunt to this delightful spot, -for the charm and witchery of its unique beauty remain in the memory -long after the excursion is a thing of the past; even as the perfume of -a rose remains after the flower has faded. - -The sole habitation in Bear Valley, located in a charming sunny -exposure with imposing trees and garden surrounding it, is the Country -Club, famous in local circles. - - [Illustration: On the Shore of Shafter Lake.] - -The deep baying of hounds from its extensive kennels forms the only -discordant note in the Valley, reminding one that even near to nature's -heart man's inherent primitiveness asserts itself. If, when wandering -in these woodland fastnesses, he (man) would hunt the wild creatures -with a camera it would require greater patience, skill and acumen than -making the ground wet with the blood of fawns and quail. - - [Illustration: Entering Bear Valley.] - -But "civilization has ever developed the physical and the intellectual -at the expense of the psychic, the humane, and the spiritual." - - [Illustration: The Country Club.] - -Notwithstanding its small area, numerable excursions offer themselves -to the ambitious tourist in Marin, while the diversity of its surface -and climate, and the ease with which one can explore its remaining -primeval stretches, make this tiny northern peninsula a necessary -adjunct to San Francisco, which, with its ever-increasing population, -needs an outlet for recreation, relaxation, and repose. - - [Illustration: Among the Ferns.] - -Moreover, as the other Bay counties are less rugged in formation, -more inhabited, and consequently more conventional in appearance, true -nature-lovers find an outing in Marin a solace and an inspiration. - - [Illustration: At the Trough.] - -A short distance from Bear Valley the road, after passing a stretch of -low marsh-land covered with tules, reeds, and willows, comes suddenly -to a sheet of water which at first sight appears to be an inland lake, -so peaceful and protected are its waters. - -This is none other than Tomales Bay--a long, narrow inlet from the -Ocean. - -At the base of the range of lofty hills which shelter it on the west -is situated Inverness, the location of the tract of three thousand and -three hundred acres which was recently sold, constituting, it is said, -the largest single transaction in suburban lands ever made in this part -of California, or in fact anywhere else in this State. It involved over -half a million dollars, and is reputed to be the beginning of a new -movement in Marin. - - [Illustration: Nearing Tomales Bay.] - -The land is to be divided for summer homes and cottages; and as the -nearest station is Point Reyes, it is planned to operate a ferry across -Tomales Bay, which would shorten the distance to the railroad where a -new station is to be erected. - -Extensive plans are also on foot to extend the electric road from its -present northern terminus at Fairfax to Inverness, and once that is -accomplished, the new summer resort and suburban town will be brought -within a little more than an hour's ride of San Francisco. - -Besides its many rural attractions there are more than six miles of -sand beach at Inverness, and the tide on going out exposes the sand to -the sun, which warms the water on its return, and insures delightful -bathing during the summer. - - [Illustration: Tomales Bay.] - - [Illustration: Church of the Assumption, Tomales.] - -Unlike many of the counties of California, Marin, during the gold -period, attracted very little attention among the miners. Her chief, -and, in fact, only industry in those days was the raising of stock. -About the year 1860 the people in the northern part of the County, -especially in the Tomales district, located on the eastern part -of upper Tomales Bay, began growing potatoes with such successful -results that the County soon gained the name of an unusually fertile -potato-raising region. - -Although stock, potato-raising, and dairying are still continued in -a small degree in the vicinity of Tomales, the chicken industry is -gradually superseding them, and the success attending this latest -departure portends well for the future of this section. - -The small ranches, which formerly were most all incumbered with one or -more mortgages, are now being cleared, and the general aspect for the -small rancher is greatly improved. - -Poultry raising as conducted under the present modern system is vastly -superior to anything of its kind in former years. - -Some idea of the dimensions of this industry were gained during a -recent visit made by the author to one of these modern poultry farms. -The ranch was of average size, and in the neat yards inclosed by -high wire fences I saw some thirteen hundred laying hens, while eight -hundred pullets for the market, all graded as to age, were in various -yards. - - [Illustration: Feeding Time.] - -From this ranch between five and six cases of eggs are shipped every -week, each case containing thirty-six dozen; averaging two hundred and -seventy-five cases or thirty thousand eggs per year. - -In the laying season over seven hundred eggs are gathered daily. - - [Illustration: Chicken Ranches in Marin.] - -The multitudinous, airy, white-washed hen houses in the numerous, -cleanly, sunny inclosures; the fields of grain raised for the fowls' -consumption; the incubator room and the adjoining brooder; the granary, -from which at stated periods the food is measured, are all adjuncts of -the modern poultry ranch. - -It is interesting to watch the great flocks of fowl, all snowy white -(the white leghorn being preferred), darting noisily toward the -attendant as he enters their enclosure at feeding-time, and the ensuing -scramble for wheat, and the continuous pick-pick-pick verily make the -hen a definition for perpetual motion--in feeding-time, at least. - -As but five acres of ground are necessary to carry on successfully a -moderate size chicken ranch, it may be seen how with less outlay and -incident expenses the small rancher can make better profits in this -industry than in dairying. - - [Illustration: Defacing Nature.] - -West of Tomales Bay a long narrow neck of land stretches far out into -the Pacific. Though somewhat barren in appearance, owing to the dearth -of trees and the abundance of low, tangled sagebrush, the fact that -grass grows the entire year on its slopes makes Point Reyes the famous -dairying center of Marin. - -Ever since the early eighties dairying has been the leading industry of -the County, and, although carried on in all sections of Marin, it is on -Point Reyes that it assumes the most extensive proportions. - -The ranches there are larger in extent, all owned by one person, namely -Mr. Webb Howard, and are rented yearly by the tenants, the cattle being -included with the land. - - [Illustration: Dairying on the Edge of the Pacific.] - -The average ranch on the Point contains about fourteen hundred and -fifty acres and one hundred and eighty cows; the old stock being -replenished as required. - -Great quantities of butter are shipped by schooner and rail to the City -where it finds a ready market, as the Marin County butter is known to -be of a superior quality. - -A trip to the Point by carriage cannot be made under two days at -the shortest, and as hotels and inns are unknown in this region, the -traveler is obliged to solicit shelter for the night from one of the -ranch houses which are scattered at wide intervals. - - [Illustration: In the Pasture.] - -There are few places, save Ireland, where hospitality, the real -whole-souled, hearty, genuine hospitality, is so dispensed without -question to the stranger as in this tiny northwest corner of Marin. - -Though loath to intrude, the hearty reception tendered and the ensuing -civilities received convince the wayfarer of his welcome, and have -earned a reputation for these good people rivaling in proportion the -Emerald Isle itself. - -After spending the night at one of these ranches we proceeded on the -following morning to the most interesting, fascinating, and historical -sheet of water in Marin County. - -In 1577, Sir Francis, then only Captain, Drake, already distinguished -as an experienced navigator, fitted out, with the pecuniary aid of the -court, a buccaneering expedition against the Spaniards. - -After reaching the Pacific and intercepting several privateers, he -bethought himself of another object, that of finding the much-talked-of -northern passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic. - - [Illustration: Going Home.] - -If he could discover this passage, he would not only perform a -notable service to his country, but would have a comparatively short -and safe voyage homeward. But after a run of nearly two months, -he experienced such bitterly cold weather, his people suffered so -severely, and his heavily-laden ship leaked so badly, that he deemed -it prudent to abandon any further search for a northern strait; and -accordingly running down the Coast in search of a stopping place, he -passed the long, projecting promontory of Point Reyes, and under its -lee discovered "a convenient and fit harbor" in which he anchored on -June 17th, 1579. At this place, which is now known as Drake's Bay, he -remained thirty-six days. During that period, which was required to -thoroughly repair and refit his vessel, he had a number of interviews, -and some remarkable intercourse with the natives. - - [Illustration: A Marin Ranch.] - - [Illustration: Sir Francis Drake.--From an old English Painting.] - -Upon sailing into the harbor he found a wild, desolate looking beach; -but the next day Indians appeared in considerable numbers. One of them -paddled out in a canoe to within hailing distance of the ship, where he -made a long oration, accompanied by violent gestures, after which he -returned to the shore. Approaching the ship a second time in the same -manner, he brought with him a head-dress of black feathers tastefully -arranged, and a small basket, neatly woven, filled with an herb called -"tabah." These he delivered to the English, and with the exception of -a hat could not be induced to accept any of the presents offered him in -return. - - [Illustration: A Bay of Solitude.] - -All his actions, as well as of the people on shore, indicated respect -and deference for the English, as if they were a superior race of -beings. - -In the course of a few days Drake, having carefully surveyed the place, -brought his ship to anchor near the shore and landed his men with arms -and provisions to set up tents and build a barricade. The Indians at -this collected on the neighboring hills and looked down with wonder -and amazement, so much so, that the English supposed themselves taken -for gods; a supposition which proved correct, for, descending, the male -Indians brought ornaments, net-work, quivers, skins, etc., intended for -offerings, while the women performed divers wild and violent dances, in -which many of the participants were cut and wounded. - - [Illustration: Drake's Bay.] - -In order to prevent a repetition of this gruesome spectacle, Drake -ordered religious services to be performed in their presence, thus -indicating that they too were but creatures of a God above. - -After prayers, psalms were sung which especially attracted the -attention of the Indians. - -Music was a language they could understand, being a universal language -intelligible to every human heart; and they were so delighted that at -every pause they testified their pleasure. - - [Illustration: A Bit of Rocky Shore.] - -The business of repairing and refitting the vessel being at length -finished, the cargo re-embarked and the peaceful character of the -Indians being now so well understood that no trouble from them was -apprehended, Drake, with a number of his crew made a short excursion -inland, which being necessarily made on foot extended but a few miles, -and did not afford any wide or distant view; and the English, like the -Spaniards under Cabrillo, though within less than a day's travel of -the most spacious and magnificent bay in the world, had no idea of its -existence. - - [Illustration: Marin Cows.] - -When ready to sail, Drake erected, by way of monument and memorial of -his having been there and taken possession of the country, a large -post, firmly planted, upon which he caused to be nailed a plate of -brass engraven with the name of the English Queen, the day and date -of his arrival, the voluntary submission of the inhabitants to English -sovereignty, and beneath all, his own name. Fastened to the plate was -an English sixpence of recent coinage, so placed as to exhibit Her -Majesty's likeness. - -All of which goes to prove that Drake supposed himself to be the -discoverer of this region, and was not aware that thirty-six years -previously the Spaniards had passed the same Coast and anticipated him. - -Having found no northern passage to the Atlantic, and making up his -mind that if one existed it was too far north to be practical, Drake -returned by the route pointed out by Magellan in his circumnavigation -of the globe. - -On July 23d, after many ceremonies of a religious character, and -taking an appropriate farewell of the sorrowful natives, he stood out -to sea. As his ship lessened in the distance, following the sun over -the trackless waste of waters, the Indians ran to the tops of their -hills to keep it in view as long as possible, and lighted fires, which -indicated, long after they themselves could be distinguished from the -vessel, that they were still watchful, and doubtless turning their -straining eyes toward the departing strangers. - - [Illustration: Drake's Cross.] - -The waves of three centuries have lapped these shores; countless storms -have swept over the promontories, and many tempests have grappled with -its cliffs since the year when Sir Francis first dropped anchor in the -Bay which ultimately bore his name. - -Time has made few changes in this Ocean inlet, as man has practically -shunned it; for excepting a small cabin on the beach, no habitation -meets the eye. The schooner which touches there three times a week -to load with butter is the only keel that rides its waves, and the -aspect of the lofty white cliffs which encircle this Bay of Solitude -are unaltered since the time when, attracting the English navigator to -their shores, they received, because of their resemblance to his native -cliffs of Dover, the appellation New Albion. - -It seems unjust and absurd that on the shores of this Bay, which was -the theater of Drake's actions in our State, no post, stone or monument -is placed whereon to commemorate his landing, or inform the traveler of -the history enacted there; while in Golden Gate Park on a mound which -his eyes never saw, on soil which his feet never trod, a lofty granite -cross rears its solid strength in his commemoration; an illustration of -the inconsistencies of man. - - [Illustration: A Rugged Coast Line.] - - [Illustration: Point Reyes.] - -Point Reyes should be called the home of the meadowlark for, while -found in other parts of the County, it is on this northern point that -the larks congregate in such numbers that the air is always vibrant -with their cheerful, happy songs. - -Perched on the lichen-covered fences, these large, plump, -yellow-breasted fellows are invariably heard warbling their rich, -mellow notes with untiring energy, and making, to my mind, the sweetest -and most enchanting of all music. - -There is perhaps no more dangerous and uninviting extent of coast line -from Oregon to Mexico than that extending from Point Reyes northward to -the mouth of Tomales Bay. - -To go ashore at any point along this line is to go to certain -destruction, and the fact of its proximity to the harbor of San -Francisco renders it doubly dangerous, as vessels have gone hard ashore -under full sail, little dreaming that danger was near and thinking that -they were heading for the Golden Gate. - -Since the establishment, on the extreme point, of the lighthouse in -1870, there have been few wrecks compared with former years, while -those imperiled on the Coast receive assistance from the brave crew of -the life-saving station located on the beach. - - [Illustration: Point Reyes Life-Saving Station.] - -Near the close of a very murky, foggy day, in August, 1875, a sailing -vessel, the Warrior Queen, bound from Auckland, New Zealand, to San -Francisco, went ashore on the beach, about three miles north of the -Point. - -The sky had been so overcast with fog that her officers had not been -able to take any observations for ten days and their "dead-reckoning" -showed them to be many miles at sea. - -Suddenly they found themselves in the breakers going ashore on a sand -beach and by immediately casting anchor, the vessel was held from going -hard ashore, although she was later driven far upon the beach. - -The men embarked in three boats and put to sea rather than try to -effect a landing in the surf, and reached San Francisco safely the -following day. - - [Illustration: Plowing in October.] - -When the Warrior Queen was discovered by the settlers the next morning -after she struck, there was consequently no sign of life on board, -and it became a matter of conjecture to those who had assembled on the -beach as to what had become of the crew. - -It was decided to go on board and discover, if possible, something to -show the fate of the men, but the difficulty which confronted them was -how to communicate with the ship. - - [Illustration: "The Warrior Queen."] - -At last, Mr. Henry Claussen, a sea-faring man of much experience (who -still lives with his family on the Point), volunteered to swim out to -the vessel and take a line on board with him. He performed the daring -feat and was rewarded by finding that all books and instruments were -gone, hence he knew that the men had put to sea. - -On a ranch but a short distance from the light-house the only known -relic of the wreck remains. This is none other than the Warrior Queen -herself-the figure-head of the vessel. Clad in a suit of mail, a shield -clenched tightly to her side, with head upraised in proud defiance, the -Warrior Queen seems still to send a challenge to the elements; but now -her battle is for life itself--against rain and wind and the decay of -time. - - [Illustration: The Lighthouse.] - -While prolific in legends and memories, history is not the only -vivifying current in Marin, and though linked inseparably with the -past, she is not a worn and decrepit matron relying on artifice solely -to revive her charms, but a young and vigorous maiden, in whom the -ambitions, powers, and possibilities are all centered but untried. - - [Illustration: Cloud-Hosts.] - -That a new era is awakening for this region is without doubt. Large -tracts of land formerly held intact are now being divided into building -lots, and the rapidity with which these are selling portends a rapidly -increasing population. - -Various railroads are contending for rights of way, and countless -rumors are in circulation, any of which means a changed aspect for the -County. - - [Illustration: Where the Waves Break.] - -The Marin Terminal is constructing a route from Petaluma to Point San -Pedro, and two railroad companies have filed articles of incorporation -for the avowed purpose of making some points on Marin's shore the land -terminus for railroads from San Francisco to points in the northern -part of the State. - -The recent purchase of Silva Island, in Richardson's Bay, by the -officials of the Western Pacific gives credence to a rumor that, a long -wharf being constructed from this Island, the company would institute -a terminus there. - -The facilities which this County offers for a railroad center are -undeniable; while the monopolistic control of the surrounding Bay -terminals renders another railroad outlet a practical necessity, and -its adjacency to San Francisco and the excellent harbors which skirt -its shores make Marin a natural and practical center. - - [Illustration: The Glory of the Dying Day.] - -Without doubt the ensuing years will witness many radical changes for -this northern peninsula. - -With the increase in population there is every probability that a -connection from Point San Pedro across to the Belt Line on the Contra -Costa shore will be consummated, linking the Bay counties by a boat -ride of scarce fifteen minutes. - -The new coaling station which the Government will erect at California -City, a small place near Tiburon, is another enterprise in the County, -which will call for the expenditure of more than three hundred and -fifty thousand dollars. It is said that the Bureau of Equipment of the -Navy Department has already signed with a New York firm to begin on -this. - -Having reached the limits of Marin's enterprises, and territory, Point -Reyes, from which westward stretches an apparent infinitude of sea, -to where the sun, now dipping on the verge of the horizon, casts its -refulgent beams, I gazed backward on Marin which lay behind me glowing -in the glory of the dying day. - -The indented shore, on whose cliffs nature has hung no tapestry of -verdure, now enshrouded in the lambent haze, no longer looked as if -composed of material objects, but rather like its luminous wraith -emerging from the sea. And as the mists of evening veiled it gradually -from my view I murmured: - -"There is a future as well as a past for this little County, a future -not painted in the dim tints of the fading day, but in the bright, -glorious radiance of the expectant morrow." - - [Illustration] - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of In Tamal Land, by Helen Bingham - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN TAMAL LAND *** - -***** This file should be named 56061.txt or 56061.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/6/0/6/56061/ - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. 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