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diff --git a/old/56061.txt b/old/56061.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 8874b0c..0000000 --- a/old/56061.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2802 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of In Tamal Land, by Helen Bingham - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: In Tamal Land - -Author: Helen Bingham - -Release Date: November 27, 2017 [EBook #56061] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN TAMAL LAND *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -Transcriber's Note: - - Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have - been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. - - Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. - - - - -In Tamal Land - - - - - [Illustration: Approaching Marin's Shores.] - - - - - In Tamal Land - - - BY - HELEN BINGHAM - - - THE CALKINS PUBLISHING HOUSE - SAN FRANCISCO, U. S. A. - - - - - _Copyrighted, 1906_, - By Helen Bingham - - - _All Rights Reserved_ - - - - -DEDICATION - - - To the chum of my childhood, - The friend of my youth, - And my kindred soul-- - My Mother-- - This volume is lovingly dedicated. - - - - -INTRODUCTION - - - A secret nook in a pleasant land, - Whose groves the frolic fairies planned, - Where arches green, the livelong day, - Echo the blackbird's roundelay, - And vulgar feet have never trod - Spots that are sacred to thought and God. - --_Emerson._ - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - Approaching Marin's Shores Frontispiece - Title sketch 1 - One of the Commodious Ferry-boats 1 - The Ferry Landing 2 - Main Street, Sausalito 3 - Sausalito Residences 4 - The Club House, Sausalito 5 - The Son of the Renowned Captain 7 - A Typical Roadway 8 - A Reminder of Rhineland 9 - A Hillside Road 10 - Hillside Gardening 11 - O'Connell's Seat 12 - Daniel O'Connell 13 - A Windblown Tree 14 - Fissures of the Cliffs 15 - Nearing the Point 16 - Fishing Boats 17 - The Derrick Wharf 19 - Point Bonita Lighthouse 20 - Overlooking the Fog 21 - The First Fog Signal 22 - Angel Island 23 - The Departing Day 23 - Mt. Tamalpais from Mill Valley 25 - The Powerhouse 27 - An Electric Train 27 - A Relic of the Past 28 - Mill Valley Depot 29 - The Three Wells 30 - The Cascade 30 - The Old Mill 31 - Like the Mikado's Realm 33 - A Reminder of the Toriis 34 - Some of the Quaint Lamps 35 - The Dining-room at Miyajima 35 - A Creek in Summer 36 - In the Hayfield 36 - "The Outdoor-Art Club" 37 - What the Club is Trying to Prevent 38 - The Mountain Train 39 - Through the Redwoods 39 - Turning the Innumerable Curves 40 - From the Crest of Mt. Tamalpais 41 - The Marine Observatory 43 - The Tavern 43 - The Bow-Knot 44 - A Wireless Telegraphy Station 45 - The Bolinas Stage 46 - Bolinas Bay 46 - A Glimpse of Bolinas 47 - Flag Staff Inn 48 - Sand Dunes 49 - The Breakers 49 - The Oil Well 50 - Where Don Gregorio Died 50 - Thad Welch's Cabin 51 - Duxbury Reef 53 - The Lone Tree 54 - Thad Welch at Work 54 - Among the Redwoods 55 - Primal Solitudes 56 - In the Canyon 57 - Angel Island from the Mainland 58 - The Tiburon Depot 59 - "The Tropic Bird" 60 - In the Cove 61 - Belvedere 63 - An Artistic Church 64 - Unloading Codfish 65 - Drying Codfish 66 - San Quentin 67 - Point San Quentin as seen from Mt. Tamalpais 68 - Lagunitas, San Rafael's Water Supply 69 - Trolling on the Lake 70 - A Marin Landscape. (From the original by Thad Welch) 71 - Mt. Tamalpais from Ross Valley 73 - A Home in Ross Valley 74 - A Shaded Avenue 75 - Dress Parade, Hitchcock Military Academy 76 - Theological Seminary, San Anselmo 77 - Dominican Convent 77 - Court House, San Rafael 78 - Escalle Vineyard and Winery 79 - "Fairhills" 81 - Fourth Street, San Rafael 82 - Entrance to Hotel Rafael 83 - Hotel Rafael 83 - The Late Owner of the Olompali 84 - The Last of the Race 85 - A Wood Interior 87 - Summer in the Redwoods 87 - A Charming Drive 88 - Browsing 89 - A Characteristic Stream 90 - Relics from a Shell Mound 91 - Haying Time 92 - Apple Picking in Marin 93 - Cheese Industry 95 - Young Heron 96 - On the Marsh 97 - R. H. Hotaling's Residence on "Sleepy Hollow Ranch" 98 - The Taxidermist of Marin 99 - A Quail's Nest 100 - A Humming Bird's Nest 101 - Little Songsters 101 - A Sportsman 102 - Near to Nature's Heart 103 - A Bend in the Road 105 - One of the Sparkling Lakes 106 - Shafter Lake 107 - On the Shore of Shafter Lake 108 - Entering Bear Valley 109 - The Country Club 109 - Among the Ferns 110 - At the Trough 111 - Nearing Tomales Bay 113 - Tomales Bay 114 - Church of the Assumption, Tomales 115 - Feeding Time 116 - Chicken Ranches in Marin 117 - Defacing Nature 119 - Dairying on the Edge of the Pacific 120 - In the Pasture 121 - Going Home 122 - A Marin Ranch 123 - Sir Francis Drake 125 - A Bay of Solitude 126 - Drake's Bay 127 - A Bit of Rocky Shore 128 - Marin Cows 129 - Drake's Cross 131 - A Rugged Coast Line 132 - Point Reyes 133 - Point Reyes Life Saving Station 134 - Plowing in October 135 - "The Warrior Queen" 137 - The Lighthouse 138 - Cloud-Hosts 138 - Where the Waves Break 139 - The Glory of the Dying Day 140 - - - - -In Tamal Land - - -To the average tourist there are few states in the Union which offer -more attractions than California. - -Though its mild climate, fertile valleys, and scenic beauties -are counted among its chief assets, still they are not its sole -possessions, for, linked to the present great commercial activity of -the Pacific Coast is a chain of picturesque events, clustered about its -birth and infancy, which lends to the whole a peculiar charm, giving it -a distinct individuality. - -While the footsteps of the Spaniards grow fainter and fainter as -they glide away into the corridors of time, and their traces become -gradually assimilated by the progressive and oft-times aggressive -Yankee, nevertheless the echoes from that former non-progressive -splendor float back to us, and history re-animates the old adobes, -breathing into a few secluded valleys the spirit of the past. - - [Illustration: One of the Commodious Ferry Boats.] - -As the seat of historic interest, Monterey has received more homage -than any other county on the Slope. Tourists flock to pay court to -her old landmarks, writers eagerly pore over her time-worn archives, -and the wielders of the brush have congregated in such numbers as to -form an artists' colony. Though Monterey is undoubtedly justified in -carrying off the palm for her many attractions, yet it is but fair -that she should divide the honors of the past with her sister counties, -being content to reign as Sovereign of the Coast. - -Skirting the Northern end of San Francisco Bay is one of the smallest -and most picturesque counties of California. - - [Illustration: The Ferry Landing.] - -As a tiny gem in a coronet appears insignificant when contrasted with -the other stones in point of size, but when viewed alone is admired for -the diversity of its coloring and rare quality, so Marin, when measured -by acres, appears insignificant, but when estimated by the beauty and -diversity of its scenery stands unique, apart, alone. - -As we approach Marin's shores, after a half hour's ride across the Bay -on a commodious modern ferry-boat, our first thought on nearing the -land is its remarkable similarity to an Italian settlement. For surely -this town, situated on the steep hillside, is a counterpart of many an -Italian hamlet, which, clinging to some abrupt cliff or bluff, seems to -defy nature by its occupancy. - -The clear blue of the California sky overhead but added to the -illusion, although upon closer approach it was gradually dispelled by -the modern American houses in place of quaint Italian structures. - -Leaving the Depot we passed an attractive little park, well kept and -gay with flowers, and a walk of a few moments brought us to the most -historic part of Sausalito. - -Though not in the section designated "old Sausalito," still it is -the oldest in memories, for it was here that John Read, the first -English-speaking settler in the County, came in 1826, erecting near -the beach a crude board house. While waiting for a land grant from the -Mexican Government, Read lived here. - - [Illustration: Main Street, Sausalito.] - -Being of an ingenious turn of mind and having a practical nautical -knowledge, Read set about constructing a sail boat, which he -subsequently plied between Sausalito and San Francisco, carrying -passengers. This was the first ferry boat on the Bay and when we -contrast the little sailboat making its periodical trips across a -solitary Bay with the present ferry craft, passing on their route -ships from every quarter of the globe, a mere three score of years -seems short for such a change, and proves what can be accomplished by -Anglo-Saxon energy and enterprise. - - [Illustration: Sausalito Residences.] - -Upon receiving his grant for the Rancho Corte Madera del Presidio, -lying north of Sausalito, Mr. Read moved there in 1834. - -A few hundred yards back from the beach, in what is now called -"Wildwood Glen," was the first adobe house built in Sausalito. Only -a few stones now mark the spot on which it stood, and a solitary -pear-tree, gnarled and knotted with age stands a living witness of -peace and plenty and decay. For it was in the bountiful days preceding -the great influx into California by the Americans that Captain William -Antonio Richardson, an Englishman but lately arrived on a whaling -vessel from "the Downs," made application, and was given a grant to the -Sausalito Rancho by the Mexican Government. He soon began building his -adobe house and with the aid of the Indians it was rapidly completed. -In the spring of 1836 he brought his beautiful young wife, formerly the -Senorita Maria Antonia Martinez, to their new abode. - - [Illustration: The Club House, Sausalito.] - -The Senora Maria Antonio was the daughter of Ygnacio Martinez, for whom -the present town of that name in Contra Costa County was called. - - [Illustration: The Son of the Renowned Captain.] - -Of all the dreams of happiness and love that filled the minds of the -youthful pair on that fair spring morning, as in a small boat they -were rowed across the Bay, by Indians, to their new home, we can not -judge, but I am sure their dreams, however fond, were realized, for it -is recorded somewhere that joy and peace reigned supreme in the little -adobe. - -However this may be, a young orchard was set out, cattle were bought -and tended and the Senora's clever hands soon had the walls laden with -the sweetest of Castilian roses. A stream flowed by the house on its -way to the Bay, and on many a bright morning the Indian women of the -household might be seen bending low over the stones washing the family -linen. The stream has long since disappeared, as also the remnant of -the race that washed in its waters--one through an unaccountable law -of nature, the other through the rapacious greed and oppression of the -Anglo-Saxon race. - - [Illustration: A Typical Roadway.] - -Owing to the abundance of pure, fresh water found on the Sausalito -Rancho it was shipped to Yerba Buena and the Presidio. The water was -conducted by spouts to the beach, thence into a tank on a scow, which -conveyed it across the Bay. This mode of supplying San Francisco with -water lasted for some time, until with the increase of population this -primitive means was abandoned. - -A tule boat operated by Indians regularly crossed the Bay for the mail, -many of the Indians evincing considerable skill in navigation under the -tutelage of their able master. - -Standing beside a heap of stones--historic stones because the sole -remnant of this abode of the past--my glance wandered to the blue water -of the Bay which laps the edge of the glen and stretches over to the -distant hills which descend in gentle undulations to this beautiful -shimmering sheet of blue. And this Bay, too, speaks of the second -settler of Marin, for it bears his name. - -As my glance now fell on the enchanting little glen with its tangled -woodland and steep declivities, and then to the fair stretches of land -that lay beyond, a sigh of sadness escaped from me unawares. I thought -how all this lovely region, this Rancho Sausalito, comprising 19,500 -acres, as varied and beautiful as ever nature put her seal to, this -land, which rightfully belonged to Richardson and his descendants, -had been appropriated by others through pretext of law and what not, -until the heirs of the pioneer can call but a small building lot their -own. Thus we ever find that "man's inhumanity to man makes countless -thousands mourn." - - [Illustration: A Reminder of Rhineland.] - -But the son of the renowned Captain, a hale, hearty old gentleman, with -a pleasant Spanish accent, speaks with calm equanimity of their loss of -fortune, showing not a vestige of ill-will toward the transgressors, -and practicing in full the true Christian spirit so often lauded but -rarely seen. - -"Sometimes, it is true, it makes me sad," he once replied, in answer to -my queries, "to think of all the Rancho being gone. As a boy I used to -ride, chasing the cattle, climbing the steep mountain sides followed -by our vaqueros ... and how wild it was then and so beautiful--so -beautiful!" Thus the heir to all these acres would extol their beauty -without more reproach than that it sometimes made him sad. - -Ascending the glen by a winding country road, shadowed by trees and -shrubs, it was not long before we reached a small, low shingled cottage -nestled deep in the shade of tall bays and buckeyes. A neat sign over -the door bearing the inscription "O'Connell Glen," met our gaze, and -then we knew that this little cottage, with its wealth of solitude and -humble exterior, was the former home of the poet, Daniel O'Connell. -For it was in this rural retreat that O'Connell, with his family, spent -many busy, imaginative years. - - [Illustration: A Hillside Road.] - -A bohemian of the truest kind, he delighted in what Marin had to offer. -With a stout stick, and accompanied by his daughters, he would often -be seen sallying forth from his rustic lodge to tramp over hills and -through canyons, exploring the apparently inaccessible, viewing and -absorbing the wondrous beauty of woodland fastnesses, airy heights, -and rugged cliffs. Feeling the very pulse of nature, his poems were -the embodiment of all he had seen and felt, delighting the reader with -their subtle charm and graceful imagery, which were peculiarly the -author's own. - -Leaving his favorite retreat and last abode, for it was here in -1899 that the poet breathed his last, a short walk around the bend -of the hill brought us to another spot, sacred to the memory of the -poet. This is the O'Connell monument which, as the inscription tells -us, was erected by his sorrowing friends. The monument is in the -form of a granite seat, some fifteen feet in length, fashioned in a -graceful, curving crescent. Placed on the bank above the roadway, it is -surrounded by great masses of bright-colored flowers, and approached by -a few stone steps. The floor is of small, inlaid stones, in the center -of which a three-leaf Shamrock proclaims the nationality of the poet. - - [Illustration: Hillside Gardening.] - -Besides the name he made for himself, O'Connell came of illustrious -ancestors, being the son of a distinguished lawyer, Charles O'Connell, -and grand-nephew of the great Irish patriot, Daniel O'Connell. - - [Illustration: O'Connell's Seat.] - -On the back of the seat are inscribed these lines, written by the -poet but ten days before his fatal illness, and prophetic of the long -journey he was so soon to take, where, away from the cares and turmoil -of this world, his soul could solve its remaining problems: - - I have a Castle of Silence, flanked by a lofty keep, - And across the drawbridge lieth the lovely chamber of sleep; - Its walls are draped in legends woven in threads of gold. - Legends beloved in dreamland, in the tranquil days of old. - - Here lies the Princess sleeping in the palace, solemn and - still, - And knight and countess slumber; and even the noisy rill - That flowed by the ancient tower, has passed on its way to - the sea, - And the deer are asleep in the forest, and the birds are - asleep in the tree. - - And I in my Castle of Silence, in my chamber of sleep, lie - down. - Like the far-off murmur of forests come the turbulent echoes - of town. - And the wrangling tongues about me have now no power to keep - My soul from the solace exceeding the blessed Nirvana of - sleep. - - Lower the portcullis softly, sentries, placed on the wall; - Let shadows of quiet and silence on all my palace fall; - Softly draw the curtains.... Let the world labor and weep-- - My soul is safe environed by the walls of my chamber of - sleep. - -Turning from these verses to rest on the granite seat, we were -confronted with a view of surpassing loveliness. Our attention had been -so engrossed in examining this monument to genius that, until then, we -had failed to perceive the commanding situation it held. - -Below us stretched the peaceful waters of the Bay; on the left Angel -Island and the Berkeley hills, with old Diablo dimly seen in the -distance; in front, Alcatraz with its warlike aspect lay basking in -the sun; while to the right the City, with its many hills and pall -of smoke, could be plainly discerned. Truly a fitting spot for this -memorial to genius. - - [Illustration: Daniel O'Connell.] - -Another attractive feature of Sausalito, besides its superb marine -view, is its abundance of flowers. These not only grow in thick -profusion in the quaint hillside gardens, but are planted beside -the roadways, covering many an erstwhile bare and unsightly bank -with trailing vines, gay nasturtiums and bright geraniums. There is -something in the spirit of this hillside gardening, this planting of -sweet blossoms for the public at large, that is very appealing in these -days of monopolistic greed, when everything that is worth while has a -fence around it. Thus it is refreshing to find a little spot in this -dollar-mad America where the citizens disinterestedly beautify the -public streets for the enjoyment of each passer-by. - - [Illustration: A Wind-Blown Tree.] - -Owing to the hilly surface of Sausalito, driving is rather a precarious -enjoyment, but there is one drive which, with its superb marine vistas, -amply compensates for the apparent lack of level roads. With the -intention of taking this drive we procured a team and were soon driven -rapidly along the boulevard skirting the water front, past the San -Francisco Yacht Club, with its medley of white sailboats and smaller -craft bobbing about in the water, and then through old Sausalito -nestled in the gulch. Thence ascending the hill, the road wound around -bend after bend with the Bay ever below us at a distance of a few -hundred feet. - -Arriving at a small, shingled lodge beside a gate through which we -passed into the reservation, we soon came upon the Fort Baker Barracks -in the hollow of the hills. It seems as if Nature, in anticipation of -man's conflict with his brother man, had formed these hills on purpose -for a fortification, so well adapted do they seem for their present -use. - -Beyond the Barracks, at the base of a cliff, we spied some small, white -buildings clustered on the rocks extending out into the water. This -proved to be Lime Point, and the buildings we were approaching belong -to the Government, constituting a lighthouse- and fog-signal station. -We found it to be one of the many smaller stations that are distributed -along the Coast. There is a diminutive white light, and a steam fog -whistle is kept ever ready to send out its note of warning at the -slightest approach of the milky vapor which is a terror to the seamen. - -Lime Point is directly opposite Fort Point, the distance being but -seven-eighths of a mile, and forms the Northern point of Golden Gate -Strait. While the view from these rocks is expansive, still it could -not be called commanding, as the Point is too near the sea level to -give the height and majesty requisite for an enchanting ocean vista. - - [Illustration: Fissures of the Cliffs.] - -As a pass is required before one can go through the reservation we -retraced our steps to the Barracks and upon receiving the passport from -the Sergeant Major, proceeded on our way up the steep, winding road -which leads out of the Valley. Reaching the summit, the road continues -its circuitous route; now in sight of the Bay and City, and again in -among the bare, rolling hills. - -While descending into a little valley we were stopped by a number of -heavily laden teams, lined up in the middle of the road. Before we -could question as to the delay, a volley of shots rang out, resounding -again and again in the silent canyons, and a flapping red flag near by -plainly denoted that the soldiers were engaged in target practice. - -In reply to our query as to the length of time we should be required -to halt, a soldier on the team in front informed us that sometimes one -had to wait an hour or an hour and a half. Other teams having lined up -behind, a retreat was impossible, and the prospect of a long wait in -the hot sun was not very agreeable. We learned that a new barracks was -in the course of construction below, in the valley at the head of the -Rodeo Lagoon, and these teams were laden with provisions for the men -stationed there. - - [Illustration: Nearing the Point.] - -Just as we had composed ourselves for the inevitable, a brisk waving -of red flags was seen in the Valley, followed by the moving of the -cavalcade in front; and, much to our satisfaction, we soon left our -pessimistic informer far in the rear. - - [Illustration: Fishing Boats.] - -On the most southerly point of Marin a narrow rocky neck of land -extends some distance into the Ocean. At the base are jagged rocks -over which the sea surges ceaselessly, cutting arches and miniature -caves in the fissures of the cliffs. From this rocky headland, which -formerly was a menace and terror to navigators, now streams a steady -light, and the point erstwhile spelling destruction now proves a -blessing to vessels which are guided safely into port by the aid of its -welcome light. This is Point Bonita and the Bonita Light, which, as we -approached, stood out clear in the afternoon sun. - - [Illustration: The Derrick Wharf.] - -Stopping at the lighthouse keeper's dwelling, we proceeded on foot to -the Point, accompanied by the keeper. Pausing in the narrow pathway, he -drew our attention to a small derrick-wharf for the tender, at the base -of the steep cliff on which we stood. This he explained was where the -boat, which touches here three times a week, lands provisions, oil, and -fuel. - -"But, how," I asked in astonishment as I gazed down the dizzy depth, -"do you get them up here?" - -"Oh, that is very simply done," he responded; "we start up the engine -and they are hauled up the bluff on a tram." - -Owing to the perilous windings of the path around an almost -perpendicular cliff a small tunnel has been cut through the solid rock. -As we emerged from this tunnel the Lighthouse confronted us only a few -yards away. - - [Illustration: Point Bonita Lighthouse.] - -The tower containing the light is a square, brick structure twenty-one -feet in height, situated at the edge of the Point at an elevation -of one hundred and twenty-four feet. The Bonita Light, although of -second-class rating, is so advantageously situated that its fixed, -white rays are visible seventeen miles at sea. - -The first lighthouse was established here in 1855, the light being -placed in the picturesque old tower still standing higher up on an -adjoining promontory and now serving as a day signal. The location was -unsurpassed, they say, in clear weather; but when the fog rolled in it -was quickly seen that a great mistake had been made in elevating the -lamp, for often when the light was entirely obscured by a fog bank, the -bluff below would be quite clear, so in 1877 the light was removed to -its present location. - - [Illustration: Overlooking the Fog.] - -An old gun, now rusty, lying beside its gun-carriage on the bluff, -was the first fog signal established on the Pacific Coast by the -government. In foggy weather it was discharged every hour and a half -during day and night. - -When we contrast the present steam sirens, blowing five blasts every -thirty-five seconds, with the former primitive means, we realize a -little what scientists and inventors have been doing these fifty years. - -The genial keeper, who is a second cousin of the late Colonel Robert -G. Ingersoll, showed us every nook and cranny in the place, from the -boilers, the lamp, and its appurtenances down to the neat store-rooms -and paint lockers. - -Though I have visited many fog-stations before, this one surpassed -all others in its perfect order and scrupulous cleanliness, reminding -one of a well regulated ship. So exactly was every corner and space -utilized, that, as Dickens once remarked of a steam-packet, "everything -was something else than what it pretended to be." - -All the appliances of the Station are in duplicate. Thus, if one siren -becomes disabled, another immediately takes its place; so with the -boilers, etc. - -Retracing our steps to the mainland, we noted on the edge of the cliff -near the keeper's dwelling the life-saving station whose crew do much -effective work about these jagged headlands. Bidding good-bye to the -keeper, we turned our backs on Bonita and started homeward. We had been -so engrossed with the Point and its environs as to be unconscious of -the flight of time, and, noting with surprise the waning afternoon, we -urged our horses to a brisk pace and sped rapidly along the elevated -roadway. - - [Illustration: The First Fog Signal.] - -The sun was slowly approaching the edge of the horizon, and Bonita, -still visible in the West, stood out a silhouette against a brilliant -sky. At its feet lay outstretched the gorgeously illumined sea; some -fleecy golden cloudlets, floating over the Gate, seemed a soft shower -of petals from the State's fair emblem; while the mellow light of the -departing day still rested lovingly on the loftiest hilltops, and over -on the city side occasional windows reflected his glory, as with a spot -of glistening gold. To the southward the blue misty tones of the Santa -Cruz Mountains began to merge into their robes of approaching night. - -Suddenly out upon the still air rang a deep boom! boom! Angel Island -was rendering her last tribute to the god of day. - - [Illustration: Angel Island.] - - [Illustration: The Departing Day.] - -Then there came to me those beautiful lines of our own poet, Lowell -Otus Reese: - - A touch of night on the hill-tops gray; - A dusky hush on the quivering Bay; - A calm moon mounting the silent East-- - White slave the day-god has released; - Small, scattered clouds - That seemed to wait - Like sheets of fire - O'er the Golden Gate. - And under Bonita, growing dim, - With a seeming pause on the ocean's rim, - Like a weary lab'rer, sinks the sun - To the booming crash of the sunset gun. - - All over the long slopes grown with green, - With the white tents scattering in between, - The flickering camp-fires start to glow - In the groves of the fair Presidio; - While the solemn chord - Of the evening hymn - Rolls over the Bay - Through the twilight dim - As the flag comes down to an anthem grand, - The brave, old song of our native land, - And Angel Isle, when the song is done, - Booms out "Amen!" with its sunset gun. - -Although Marin County was first opened up by the advent of the North -Pacific Coast Railroad in 1875, it was not until the transfer to the -North Shore that the road was operated in its present modern system. - -With the exception of the extreme North and East where the trains are -run by steam, the County is traversed by well appointed electric trains -which combine easy riding with quick transit. - -This was the first electric line in California to be operated by the -third rail system, and it has proved satisfactory in every detail. -Owing to the danger of contact with the third rail, the road is fenced -on both sides, and the rail is concealed at stations. - -At the head of Richardson's Bay, and but a short distance from Mill -Valley, is situated the North Shore Powerhouse. Here the power, -which is transmitted from Colgate, over 150 miles away, is stored. -Should there be any accident and stoppage to the power, electricity -is generated at the Powerhouse by steam, which is always kept in -readiness. - -As I gazed at the three switches, each in its separate vault (in order -to be kept fire-proof) it was difficult to realize that in the small -wires I beheld were centered power to operate trains, illuminate and -run machinery and countless other utilities. - - [Illustration: Mt. Tamalpais From Mill Valley.] - -As this, the greatest motive power in the world to-day, was long -unknown except as an element of destruction, until the man came who -harnessed the lightning and made it do man's work, so there are still -undoubtedly other forces of nature which but await the master mind to -discover their utility. - - [Illustration: The Powerhouse.] - -A short distance west of the Powerhouse, on a slightly elevated mound, -is an old orchard whose gnarled trees have sheltered for a generation -and more the yellow adobe walls of the first settler of Marin. - -But the elements of nature with relentless fingers have played about -this relic of the past, until but a small vestige is left to remind us -of what has been. - - [Illustration: An Electric Train.] - -When a grant to the Corte Madera del Presidio Rancho was given to John -Read he began building his home, and in order to construct a large, -commodious adobe, he erected a sawmill in the vicinity, and there the -lumber for his home was whipsawed. - -Thus, it is this mill, which is still standing in undisturbed repose -these many years, which gave the surrounding valley its name. - -Read had barely finished his adobe when he died, and the place -subsequently passed into the hands of the boldest bandit of Marin. - -The terror of the surrounding counties--whose very name sent a chill -even to the bravest heart--was Barnardino Garcia, otherwise called -"Three-fingered Jack." He possessed all the daring and bravery of a -dauntless marauder, and the anecdotes of his bloody adventures form -many a weird and ghostly tale when told by the flickering firelight of -a winter's night, sending the listener to bed inwardly quaking, with -eyes peering into dark corners. - - [Illustration: A Relic of the Past.] - -The most widely known of his crimes was committed shortly after the -raising of the Bear Flag at Sonoma, which proclaimed the Golden West to -be the Republic of California. - -The Bear Flag party being short of ammunition and a rumor gaining -circulation to the effect that General Vallejo had a cache of powder -stored on the Sotoyome Rancho near the present town of Healdsburg, it -was decided to send men to procure some. Cowie and Fowler volunteered -to go, although the journey was known to be a perilous one; but the -need was great, and these pioneers considered it no risk. - - [Illustration: Mill Valley Depot.] - -They were warned, however, to avoid the way through Santa Rosa, and to -confine their paths to the hills out of the ken of Garcia and his band. - -Whether the Americans failed to heed the warning, or whether Garcia's -men discovered them in the hills, will never be known. They were taken -prisoners, under a pledge that their lives would be spared, but were -finally murdered with great cruelty. - -When Cowie and Fowler did not return to Sonoma within a reasonable -time, great anxiety was felt in the little garrison. - -Finally a searching party was sent out, but it soon returned with news -of the murder. - -The Bear Flag leaders swore revenge on the murderers, and eventually -captured a number of Garcia's band, although he himself escaped. A -fugitive from justice, he journeyed south, becoming lieutenant to the -famous desperado, Joaquin Murietta, only to be subsequently shot in -1853 by Captain Harry Love's Rangers. His hand of three fingers was -sent as a trophy to the commandant. - - [Illustration: The Three Wells.] - -Thus ended the career of this bold adventurer. - - [Illustration: The Cascade.] - -Though there are many towns in Marin which command a more expansive -vista, and offer by their marine situation greater diversity in -out-door sports, still Mill Valley, nestling at the base of Tamalpais, -has proved a delightful summer retreat and home center; for, dotted in -the wooded canyons, beside the streams, or in some sunny exposure may -be found many artistic dwellings which, while possessing the advantages -of the country, are within easy access of the city. - - [Illustration: The Old Mill.] - -The most notable among the attractive residences is the home of Mr. -George T. Marsh. - -Stepping within the odd wooden gate, which reminds one of the "Toriis," -or sacred gates of Nikko, the stranger feels that he has indeed touched -a fairy wand, and been transported to the heart of the Mikado's realm. - - [Illustration: Like the Mikado's Realm.] - -Liquid streams, spanned by fantastic miniature bridges on whose banks -dwarf shrubs of various kind abound; fish ponds and islands; quaint -metal lamps beside the roadway on their low posts, that are unique -by daylight and when lit add all the witchery and charm of the floral -isle; these and numerous other features of the Orient come unexpectedly -upon the enchanted visitor, until he forgets the busy commercial -activity of the outer world, and is in fancy again wandering in the -grand old dreamy groves of Miyajima. - -Another spot deserving the attention of the visitor is the quaint -Club-House of the Out-Door Art Club. This Club has been organized by -the ladies of Mill Valley for the purpose of preserving the natural -beauties of the town and vicinity and staying, if possible, the hand -of those primitive beings who, with ruthless vandalism, cut down and -otherwise destroy the most prized of our rural possessions, our noble -trees. - -Much credit is due these energetic ladies in their worthy endeavor -to teach those who have "eyes that see not" the wondrous beauties of -Nature. - -Besides its own unique features, the chief attraction which draws to -this little burg tourists and travelers from all parts, as by a magnet, -is the fact that it is the starting point of the Mill Valley and Mt. -Tamalpais Scenic Railway. - -Leaving the station, the mountain train winds through redwood groves, -beside streams and pools, passing on its route the Hotel Blithedale, -founded many years ago by Dr. Cushing as a sanitarium, so propitious to -health is this sheltered, sunny exposure. - - [Illustration: A Reminder of the Toriis.] - - [Illustration: Some of the Quaint Lamps.] - - [Illustration: The Dining Room at Miyajima.] - -The train is operated by a steam-traction engine which combines the -ordinary cog system with an additional contrivance appropriate for -turning curves. As the train gradually climbs in its serpentine route, -and chaparral takes the place of redwood, the country below begins to -unfold; towns appear in miniature, and hills which on close approach -have distinct characteristics now merge into one another, forming an -unbroken mass which stretches west to the Pacific, on whose sapphire -bosom may frequently be seen the dim outline of the Farallon Islands, -while to the southward Point San Pedro and the City are visible, and -San Francisco Bay with intricate windings can be seen to join San Pablo -and Suisun bays on the east. - - [Illustration: A Creek in Summer.] - - [Illustration: In the Hay Field.] - - [Illustration: The Out-door Art Club.] - -It requires many trips to fully appreciate and comprehend the marvelous -diversity of views spread before one, while the variety of superb -effects to be witnessed from this mountain cannot be found in a single -visit. - -To watch the wonderful radiance of sunrise when Apollo mounts in his -chariot of fire above the Berkeley hills, or to see a billowy floor -of fog, outspread before one, obscuring the lower world and leaving -naught save this mountain peak unwrapped by the fog-mantle; and then to -witness the pale light of the moon marking a silver pathway on the Bay, -and casting grotesque shadows on the landscape; and these are but a few -of the beauties garnered here. - - [Illustration: What the Club is Trying to Prevent.] - -The road which is known as "the crookedest in the world," turns -innumerable sharp curves, finally twisting into a double bow-knot -and, extricating itself, continues winding its way up, stopping a few -moments at West Point, where passengers for Bolinas take the stage. - -Arriving at the railroad's destination, the Tavern, the passengers -alight to luncheon in its well-appointed dining-room, or lounge on the -spacious veranda, enjoying at ease the superb views revealed below. - -But if the traveller be something of a pedestrian he will take the -zigzag, cleated steps which lead from the Tavern to the top. - -Here the San Francisco Examiner's Marine Observatory is located, whose -telescope is said to sight ships seventy miles at sea. - - [Illustration: The Mountain Train.] - -But this is not the only walk on the Mountain. Many trails wind -about its sides disclosing shady nooks, a delightful cool spring and -countless other surprises, which are easily reached owing to the -guidance of artistic little signs which appear at short distances -apart, while location rods are placed at intervals on the path circling -the Mountain, enabling the visitor to find the various points of -interest without any difficulty. - - [Illustration: Through the Redwoods.] - -A few hundred feet from the Tavern is located a Government Weather -Bureau, and in its proximity is to be placed the seismograph now being -made in Strasburg, Germany, by order of the Weather Bureau Department -in Washington. The instrument is said to be on a more elaborate plan -than any in this country except the one in Washington, D. C., of which -this will be a counterpart. Some time is required for its completion, -so, presumably it will not be installed and ready to receive -earthquakes until early next year. - - [Illustration: Turning Innumerable Curves.] - -Descending the mountain on the train to West Point, we alighted and -after lunching at the Inn, mounted the stage which was bound for -Bolinas. - -The air on these mountain slopes is most exhilarating, and as we sped -along down the gradually descending roadway, the breath of azaleas was -wafted on the breeze from the canyons, while at each bend of the road -the salt zephyrs from the Ocean became more perceptible. - - [Illustration: From the Crest of Mt. Tamalpais.] - -Leaving the Monarch of Marin we soon came in sight of the white -sand-spit with Dipsea, the new resort on the beach, and the glorious -Pacific stretching thousands of miles beyond the horizon. - - [Illustration: The Tavern.] - -Alighting from the stage we embarked in a steam-launch which glided -rapidly across the Bolinas Lagoon. Steep, massive hills encircle the -Lagoon on the right, while on the left, becoming more apparent at each -glide of the launch, lies Bolinas, the town, and our destination. - - [Illustration: The Marine Observatory.] - -Owing to its small size and remote location we expected the usual -hardships which accrue from a country hotel and its numerous -incongruities; imagine our surprise therefore, when arriving at this -little town, which is a stranger as yet to railroads, to find a cozy -hostelry awaiting us. - -Though unpretentious in appearance, the Flag Staff Inn proved as -orderly and neat as any of its English prototypes. Whether it was due -to the landlord's being a Briton or not, I can not say, but there was -undoubtedly an English atmosphere about the place, and if honest Mrs. -Lupin or Mark Tapley had issued from the porch to welcome us, I should -not have been in the least surprised. - -West of the little settlement of Bolinas a neck of land extends for -a mile and a half out into the Ocean, the top forming a mesa. Owing -to the fogs abounding in this region, it is green almost the entire -year and makes splendid grazing, as in fact does all the land in the -vicinity. - - [Illustration: The Bow-Knot.] - -At the end of the mesa, some oil prospecting was being done, and at the -time of our visit there was one shaft sunk. Although there are numerous -deposits of oil to be found in and about these cliffs, the output thus -far has not exceeded a barrel a day. Yet who can tell what rich veins -may lie beneath this mesa. - -On Duxbury Reef, a succession of small rocks extending farther out into -the ocean, there is said to be found at low tide gas escaping from the -rocks, which, being ignited occasionally by fishermen, does not become -extinguished until the tide rises. - - [Illustration: A Wireless Telegraph Station.] - -At the other extremity of the town is to me the most interesting -section of Bolinas, for it was here that the first settlement was -made. The name Bolinas--then spelled Baulinas--is believed by some to -signify stormy and untamed, while others accredit it to be the name of -an Indian girl. - - [Illustration: The Bolinas Stage.] - -Which is correct may never be ascertained. Either is probable; owing -to its situation "stormy" may well apply, and as the Tamal Indians -formerly inhabited this region, and in fact spread over the entire -County, the last theory is equally feasible. To my mind they are both -correct, for might it not have been named for an Indian maiden called -Bolinas, whose nature was as stormy and untamed as the tempests which -often surge about these headlands? - - [Illustration: Bolinas Bay.] - -This Rancho Bolinas first belonged to Rafael Garcia, who disposed of -the grant to his brother-in-law, Gregorio Briones, of whom tradition -says there were few so honest, upright and brave as this dignified son -of Spain, who died respected and beloved by all who knew him. - -It was in the days before the "Gringo" came, when peace and plenty -reigned throughout this land, and hospitality was proverbial to every -household, that Gregorio Briones settled in Bolinas. - - [Illustration: A Glimpse of Bolinas.] - -To be a skillful horseman and expert vaquero was all that was then -required, for as cattle could live and thrive all the year round on -the hills, there was no necessity for making hay for winter feed, or -building stables for winter shelter; therefore, with little labor -requisite, the natural consequence was the easy, careless life -led by the Californians. Thus their spare energies were devoted to -horse-racing, dancing, gambling, and kindred amusements. - -Horses roamed the hills untethered and a caballero's first occupation -in the morning was to catch a horse, saddle and bridle it, and either -use or keep it tied up at his door during the day, ready for use at any -moment, as both young and old rarely went from one house to another, no -matter how short the distance, except on horseback. - - [Illustration: Flag Staff Inn.] - -As to the riders themselves, there were probably no better horsemen in -the world than the native Californians. - -On a fair spring morning in the month of May, 1850, a single horse, -with two riders, might have been seen threading its way up the steep -mountain trail leading from Bolinas to San Rafael. The bright, girlish -face of the first rider peered wistfully from beneath the soft folds -of her mantilla, while the young caballero, on the crupper behind, -whispered to her in those sweet, melodious tones unheard save from -a liquid Spanish tongue. Of the purport of their whispers we can but -judge, for on arriving at the Mission they were greeted by a joyous -peal of wedding bells. - -The groom was Francisco Sebrean, the bride the beautiful Senorita -Maria Briones, daughter of the pioneer. This was the first marriage in -Bolinas and the celebration which followed their return to the Rancho -was the most notable ever witnessed in that region. Dancing, feasting, -music and gayety continued until the gray dawn appeared to touch the -surrounding hilltops and proclaim the approach of another day. - - [Illustration: Sand Dunes.] - - [Illustration: The Breakers.] - -Stopping at the home of the only remaining daughter of Don Briones, -now a dignified, delightful, old lady, with the charming manners and -graces of a true descendant of old Spain, we procured directions and -soon found the oldest house in Bolinas. Although this was not the first -built there, it is the oldest standing, and was occupied by the Briones -family, Don Gregorio dying many years ago, while his wife, the Senora -Briones, lived there until 1903, reaching her one hundred and seventh -birthday--which goes to prove that it is the simple, natural life which -begets old age. - - [Illustration: The Oil Well.] - -If one is a good pedestrian and has a desire to get acquainted with -nature untamed "without her hair combed" he should take the Lone Tree -Trail leading from Bolinas over the hills, through the canyons and -along the ridges back to the starting point, Mill Valley. - - [Illustration: Where Don Gregorio Died.] - - [Illustration: Thad Welch's Cabin.] - -In a little "Steep Ravine" amid the high hills, and but a short -distance from the Ocean and Bolinas, stands the solitary cabin of the -man who by the magic of his brush first awoke the outer world to a -realization of the beauties and possibilities of this region. - - [Illustration: Duxbury Reef.] - -With the hand of a master, Thad Welch caught the rare effects abounding -here, which have delighted and won the admiration of all nature-lovers, -and linked his name inseparably with Marin. While at present residing -in another portion of the County, the cabin which he formerly occupied -here is in a state of neglect, but while his little abode may perish, -his pictures will live and be cherished in the ages yet to come. - -Some distance from the Steep Ravine the trail descends an abrupt, -wooded hillside, at the foot of which lies the Redwood Canyon. For this -forest of giant redwoods, comprising six hundred acres, negotiations -were pending toward making it a national reserve, but the efforts -proved unsuccessful. Though of smaller dimensions than the Calaveras -Big Trees, these redwoods gain by beauty of situation what they lack in -size. - -The Canyon runs diagonally with the sea coast and has its rise in one -of Tamalpais' western ribs, from which a railroad similar to the Mount -Tamalpais Railway is under course of construction, connecting the -Mountain with the Canyon. - - [Illustration: The Lone Tree.] - -Its present owners, Messrs. Kent & Cushing, intend to erect a hotel -at the terminus of the new road, and the building, on which it is said -will be expended some fifty or sixty thousand dollars, will be a fully -equipped, sumptuous modern hostelry. - - [Illustration: Thad Welch at Work.] - -It is to be hoped that the march of civilization, which so often leaves -nature's handiwork crushed, broken and even obliterated, will spare -this grand, majestic forest in which beauty now reigns supreme. - -Bending low over the little stream which winds through this canyon huge -sprays of azaleas filled the air with their delicate perfume; on the -banks lacy wood warriors and the hardy sword-ferns mingled in graceful -profusion, while the flickering sunlight filtering aslant through the -tree tops fell on the transparent hazel leaves lending a soft, green -glint to a neighboring pool which rippled every now and then by the -action of numerous trout catching flies on its surface. - - [Illustration: Among the Redwoods.] - -Wandering beneath these perennial columns, these huge monoliths of -whose birth there is no record, one feels as if treading the grandest -of cathedral aisles, and that in truth "The groves were God's first -temples" and "Solitude is the veritable audience chamber of the -Creator." - -No echo follows our footsteps on the soft needles and oxalis and save -for the murmuring of the little stream and the occasional calling of a -mourning dove in the tree tops above there is no sound. Here, alone in -these solitudes, the higher self--the soul--strikes off its shackles, -and expands to the very infinitude of things, through nature to the -Infinite. - -Near the southeastern shores of Marin lies the largest and most -picturesque of the three islands which adorn San Francisco Bay. Though -lawfully a portion of Marin County, Angel Island, separated from the -mainland by Raccoon Straits, besides being set aside as a Government -reserve, is therefore seldom classed with the County, and usually ranks -with her sister islands, Alcatraz and Yerba Buena. - - [Illustration: Primal Solitudes.] - -But a sketch of Marin, however cursory, would be incomplete without -her southern isle, for besides the United States Barracks, situated on -the western part of the Island, there is located in a northern cove -the Federal quarantine station, that most necessary adjunct of San -Francisco, which prevents contagion by quenching the pestilence often -brought to our shores from the Orient and South American ports. - -Besides its present significance the Island has another and far older -claim on our attention. - -In the summer of 1775, Juan de Ayala, a lieutenant of the Royal Spanish -Navy, was given a commission from Junipero Serra and Bucareli, the -Mexican Viceroy, to proceed to "the arm of the sea" lying north of -Monterey, which had been twice viewed by the padres from the land, to -ascertain if it were a canal or bay, and make a survey of it. - -Pursuant to these instructions Ayala cautiously crept up the Coast -and on the ninth day sighted the narrow passage which is now known the -world over as the Golden Gate. - - [Illustration: In the Canyon.] - -A crude launch was sent to explore the opening, which was found to be -deep and without obstructions. By the time the launch returned it had -grown dark, nevertheless Ayala headed for the Bay and on the night of -August 5, 1775, the San Carlos sailed in through the Strait, the first -ship that ever passed the pillared passage or entered what is now known -as the Bay of San Francisco. - -Having entered safely, Ayala moored his vessel just inside the Bay, and -the next morning, looking around him, selected an island not far from -the entrance as a convenient spot to make his headquarters. - - [Illustration: Angel Island from the Mainland.] - -Upon examination, he found a suitable place for mooring his vessel, -also wood and water in abundance. This Island was then named Nuestra -Senora de Los Angeles, the appellation which it still bears, though -shortened to Angel Island. - -On the mainland, directly across from the Island, lies Tiburon, the -ferry and terminus of the California Northwestern Railroad. Besides the -Company's shops, Tiburon consists mainly of stores--in short all that -is included in the usual "Water Front." - -The most interesting object in Tiburon is on the road between -that place and Belvedere. This is none other than the remains of a -remarkable old hulk, now beached and converted into a habitation. -Besides its unique appearance, there is an interesting tale connected -with the Tropic Bird which is something like the following: - -"Early in the year 1850 the good ship, Tropic Bird, Captain Homans -skipper, set sail from Gloucester, Mass., with a cargo of general -produce bound for the Golden Gate. On board was a mixed crew, seafaring -men and land lubbers, all having but one hope, one idea--the far-famed -gold fields of California. A good true ship was the Tropic Bird and a -good true man her skipper, who had with him his brother. - -"One day is very much like another on a long ocean voyage,--when the -wind holds good and the weather is fair; but there came a time when -ominous murmurings, gathering force each day, the echo of a mutinous -discontent, reached the quick ears of the young Captain and his -brother. - - [Illustration: The Tiburon Depot.] - -"The cargo was a valuable one. They were on the high seas. If the crew -stood together against the two men they were as nothing in their hands. - -"One night the cloud burst, there was a loud cry from the first mate, -and in a second every one was in the scrimmage. - -"The Captain rushed on deck. Though light, he was strong and a famous -wrestler. As soon as he appeared he was pounced upon by the leader of -the mutiny, called Dutch Dick, a big, heavy, slouching fellow. With -almost superhuman strength the gallant Captain disarmed and stunned his -foe after a heavy tussle. - -"Men were moaning, yelling, dying on all sides, when suddenly above -this howling, cursing, blood-thirsty mob, there was a bright, piercing -flash, the sharp battalion crack, crack of thunder. - -"The storm was on them. No time now for murder and rapine. It was -a battle against the elements. The Captain was up roaring orders to -his men. Those who could, obeyed and worked with a will in the common -danger. - - [Illustration: "The Tropic Bird."] - -"Battered, tempest-torn, thrown hither and thither, a mere cockle shell -in the hands of God's elements, the staunch ship, skilfully handled by -her skipper, just managed to reach the Golden Gate. - - [Illustration: In the Cove.] - -"Water-logged and mauled, the gallant Tropic Bird was then unfit to -further cope with the elements, and, after being converted into a -boarding house at the foot of Telegraph Hill by her courageous Captain, -she was later sold and beached at Tiburon, where she now rests, her -labors o'er, a worthy ship with a peaceful, useful old age." - - [Illustration: Belvedere.] - -Belvedere--beautiful Belvedere it is called, and with justice, too; -for who could view this thickly wooded hillside with its charming -villas without exclaiming Beautiful! These villas are interspersed with -graceful irregularity amid their leafy setting; the sparkling water at -their feet, gay in summer, with house-boats, launches, yachts and other -craft is resonant of one theme, united in one chord--the care-free, -happy, guileless merriment which does more to erase the worry lines -begotten of cities than all the lotions ever prepared. And this, in -truth, is the veritable home of the sportsman, for across the cove -on the Tiburon side is situated the Corinthian Yacht Club, famous in -yachting annals. - -However gay this little cove may appear by day it is by the pale -light of the moon that Belvedere, like Venice, is at her best; for the -harsher lines of fact are mellowed, and imagination gives the floating -habitations a fairy aspect, while the strains of the military band from -the Island but lend to the fantasy. - -On the opposite side of Belvedere is situated one of the most -prosperous industries conducted in Marin County. - -Nestling at the base of the cliffs on an extensive wharf built for the -purpose are the buildings of the Union Fish Company. The Company has -several fishing stations in Alaska, the most extensive of which are on -the Shumagin and Popof Islands. A schooner plying between the stations -and this port brings the fish direct to the fishery, where they are -prepared for use. - - [Illustration: An Artistic Church.] - -At the time of our visit, the schooner, which had arrived but a few -days previously, was unloading and we were thus fortunate enough to see -the evolution of the codfish from the time it leaves the hold of the -ship until it is packed in neat boxes ready for shipment. - -There were four hundred tons, or one hundred and seventy thousand fish -on the vessel. When one thinks that each fish is caught by hook and -line, the amount of work represented seems enormous, but this is a mere -bagatelle compared to the process following. - -On leaving the hold they are first thrown into vats of brine for -rinsing, then loaded on small cars operated on a track and run into the -building; from thence they are laid on immense racks in the sun to dry. -If not for immediate shipment they are stored in huge vats of brine. - - [Illustration: Unloading Codfish.] - -In one large room there were many men at long tables, engaged in -skinning and boning the fish, and the celerity and skill with which -this was accomplished are marvelous to watch. The refuse, which -formerly was discarded as being useless, is now utilized, the bones -being made into a fertilizer, while the skins are used for glue. - -There are seventy-five men employed in this establishment, and the -order and cleanliness of the place testify to its able management. - -Owing to the inclemency of the weather during the winter months, a -steam-drying apparatus was in the course of construction by which the -fish can be dried with safety in the rainy season. - -Leaving Tiburon, a short ride on the California Northwestern Railway -brought us to Greenbrae, a small station, uninteresting in itself -and unimportant save as the place from which is reached that huge -institution known as the state prison, San Quentin. - - [Illustration: Drying Codfish.] - -Situated on Point San Quentin, which extends into upper San Francisco -Bay, with round guard towers perched on the hill overlooking it, and -a twenty-foot wall enclosing its eight acres, the prison would seem -impregnable and unpropitious for an outbreak. - -The high somber buildings, which are of red brick, have been added to -and remodeled at intervals without any given plan, and thus they form -an irregular mass, interspersed with paved courts and narrow cells. - - [Illustration: San Quentin.] - -A large, square plot is devoted to grass and flowers and lends a -cheering tone to the grim structures surrounding it. One of these, a -tall edifice with a succession of iron doors opening on to small, long -balconies, reached by narrow steps, is called the Tanks. - -The average cell in this building is eight by twelve feet in -dimensions. In each of these five men are stowed--one could not -say accommodated for the narrow bunks placed in tiers, with a still -narrower passageway between, vividly suggested the over-crowded lodging -houses of Mulberry Bend, which Jacob Riis's perseverance eradicated. - -In other buildings are cells, each of which is thirty by twenty-seven -feet, which contain twenty-six men, and one cell, of thirty-six by -twenty-one feet, lodges forty-eight convicts. - - [Illustration: Point San Quentin, as Seen from Mt. Tamalpais.] - -Though the system of ventilation is by means of flues attached to the -ceiling and door, still these rooms, in which are herded individuals -of all ages and classes, must become exceedingly foul and unhealthful; -while the opportunity which this congregate system affords the -prisoners for concocting plots and outbreaks is undeniably assured. - -Of the prison industries the jute mill is of sole importance to the -outer world; all other products being consumed there. Some eight -hundred convicts labor at the mill, and five million sacks are annually -sent from the prison. - -There are paint and tin shops which supply all the tin-cups, hand -basins, pails, etc., used in the institution; tailor shops in which -are made all the clothes; carpenter shops for repairing and furniture, -while sixty pairs of shoes are turned out each week from the boot -shop. In the machine shops where are manufactured all the needles used -in sewing the jute bags half a dozen excellent sewing machines were -recently made. - -The extensive laundry where numerous Chinese convicts are employed, -is only one of the many evidences of cleanliness witnessed in this -institution, where order and system are apparent to even the casual -observer. But however orderly, systematic and cleanly a prison may be -kept, that is only one means toward eliminating crime; for so long -as we continue in our congregate system of indiscriminate herding -together of all classes of offenders so long will our penitentiaries -be hot-houses for fostering crime. Instead of eliminating, we confirm; -instead of inciting decency and self-respect, we incite indecency and -rebellion. - - [Illustration: Lagunitas, San Rafael's Water Supply.] - -At the time of our visit there were in San Quentin about a dozen -lads, the youngest but fourteen years of age, imprisoned on charges of -murder, who, had it not been for the supervision of Warden Tompkins, -would have been placed with the confirmed, hardened criminals. - - [Illustration: Trolling on the Lake.] - -The State makes no provision for these offenders, and, unless as -in this instance they are separated by the individual action of the -Warden, they would ere now be proficient in the lore of crime. - -Crime is contagious, because thought is contagious. - -By this it is not meant that you and I, if we mix with criminals, will -become criminally inclined; because our ego--or soul--not having any -prenatal defect or susceptibility to crime will be unresponsive to its -influence. - -But to a criminal, whether he be a first offender or not, the -pernicious, indiscriminate companionship of fellow convicts who suggest -crime in its various distorted shapes to his abnormal, defective mind, -will plant seed-thoughts which thus sown thrive and grow until we have -the confirmed criminal. - -If a criminal is so receptive to suggestions of evil, and his criminal -capacity is so strengthened and fixed by the ideas and emotions that he -entertains, would not counter-suggestions have just as potent an effect -on the individual? - - [Illustration: A Marin Landscape. - (From the Original by Thad Welch.)] - -If, through the channels of thought, he is susceptible to maleficent -influences will he not be equally responsive, through the same medium, -to the beneficial? - - [Illustration: Mt. Tamalpais from Ross Valley.] - -Granting this to be true, would it not be well to surround the convict -with all that stands for advancement, and through intelligent education -and suggestion awaken the latent good which is in each individual, no -matter how dormant and perverted it may be? - -By education is not meant the rudimentary school education, for many -criminals are proficient in that, but the far more important study -of self-respect, honesty, veracity, industry, unselfishness, and an -appreciation and proper use of the things that are. - -Methinks if with the contemplated enlargement to the prison an -educative, segregative, industrial system similar to that adopted -with such marked success in the Elmira Reformatory, New York, were -inculcated in our state prison there would be less "recedivists"--fewer -many-term offenders--and the fifteen thousand dollars which it -costs the State monthly to conduct a prison would not be devoted to -confirming criminals. - -Although Marin County is sparsely populated, owing to its large tracts -of hilly surface and consequent non-agricultural facilities, still the -towns within its borders are of average population, the largest, San -Rafael, comprising five thousand inhabitants. - -Besides being the county seat, San Rafael has the distinction of having -once been a mission settlement, and though the church has long since -mingled with the dust, the memory of its bygone glory clings like the -lichen of the remaining pear trees to the spot which knew it in its -prime; when to the clanging of the mellow toned Spanish bells, the -neofites, the children of the soil, would kneel in meek devotion before -the sacred altar whose fires, like their lives, have long been quenched -but appear again, let us hope, in their successive higher spheres. - -Except in memories San Rafael is essentially modern. - -The factory and the loom form no part of its existence, and with the -exception of two brick kilns and a planing mill on the outskirts, the -town is without industries. - -Therefore, sheltered as it is by beautiful rolling hills on three -sides, with a mild climate and not even a street-car, as yet, to -disturb the stillness, San Rafael, like Ross Valley, is considered an -ideal spot for homes. - -Besides its handsome residences and long shaded avenues, which afford -much enjoyment for driving, San Rafael is noted for its excellent -schools. - - [Illustration: A Home in Ross Valley.] - -These not only consist of the splendid public schools, but of private -institutions, notably the Hitchcock and Mt. Tamalpais Military -Academies for boys, and the excellent Dominican Convent for girls, -besides the St. Vincent and Presbyterian orphan asylums in the vicinity -procure for the town the name of an educational center. - -A short time ago, Mr. Andrew Carnegie donated to Marin's county seat -the sum of twenty-five thousand dollars for a public library, the plans -of which are now under consideration. - -That her residents are not less generous than the famous philanthropist -was forcibly shown on April 29, 1905, when Mr. and Mrs. John F. Boyd -transferred to the town some seventy acres for a memorial park. The -occasion of its dedication was marked by able addresses from the -"Wizard of the Plant World," Mr. Luther Burbank, United States Judge W. -W. Morrow, and Judge Thomas J. Lennon. - - [Illustration: A Shaded Avenue.] - -Abounding in natural verdure, artistically embellished and converted -into a perpetual pleasure ground, the Boyd Memorial Park seems a -fitting testimonial to the memory of the sons of its donators. - -While noted as an educational center, San Rafael also has the unique -distinction of being the Gretna Green of the Coast; and the blushing -brides and happy grooms united here exceed in numbers those from the -erstwhile famous European village. - -To this charming little northern settlement from all the surrounding -counties and various parts of the state they come to plight their -troth, averaging, it is said, five a day; "and the best and most -remarkable part of it all is," Marin's genial Judge informed me, "they -turn out all right," and, really, I suppose he ought to know. - -Notable among the many charming residences in San Rafael is Fairhills, -a summer home of Mr. A. W. Foster. - -It is surrounded by a stately garden where the choicest plants abound -in graceful profusion, blending one with another in a perfect harmony -of colors, while the majestic trees, spreading a deep shade over the -sloping velvety lawn, are reminiscent of a Warwickshire landscape. - - [Illustration: Dress Parade, Hitchcock Military Academy.] - - [Illustration: Theological Seminary, San Anselmo.] - -To the westward, wooded hills--truly fair hills--with their ever -changing, hazy tones, are visible from the spacious veranda, and the -perpetual calmness and majesty of their lofty slopes would seem to -impart some of themselves to the beholder, for, as Rousseau says, "Our -meditations gain a character of sublimity and grandeur proportioned to -the objects around us." - - [Illustration: Dominican Convent.] - -Although essentially a resident settlement, the tourist will find -ample accommodations at Hotel Rafael, sometimes called the "Del Monte -of the North." Though of smaller dimensions, and with less sumptuous -appointments and surroundings than the southern hostelry, Hotel Rafael, -within easy access of the City, is more convenient for those who enjoy -the country, yet never leave their business for its sake. - -While the Assyrians, Babylonians, Greeks and later Gauls and Romans -were weaving the first few threads of our planet's history in the -old world, the aborigines of America roamed our trackless, primeval -forests, boundless save for two shimmering oceans and a blue canopy -overhead. - - [Illustration: Court House, San Rafael.] - -Fearless, they plunged into the thickets, swam the streams, hunted -game, caught the bear and bison, trapped the fowl, and dauntlessly -lived on in fear of neither nature, beast nor man--primitive--just -a savage, but possessing the fundamental requisites from which all -civilizations, sects, isms, or communities have been evolved--a human -being with a soul. - -Therefore the red man is to America what the cave man is to Europe--the -father of his country. - -In the history of our State the aborigines played an all-important -part, as the founding of the missions by the Friars was with the avowed -intention of reclaiming these children of the wilderness, to teach them -civilization. - - [Illustration: Escalle Vineyard and Winery.] - - [Illustration: "Fairhills."] - -The first mention made of the Indians in Marin County is found in an -old legend which states that about the time of the erection of the -Mission at San Francisco a party of Spaniards crossed the Straits at -what is now known as Lime Point and traveled northward. It was late -in the season, and they found no streams of running water until they -arrived at Olompali, so named from a great and powerful tribe of -Indians who dwelt at this place, the Olompalis. Here they were kindly -received by the natives, and all their wants were supplied as far as it -lay in their power. The party was so well entertained that the leaders -decided to remain a fortnight and recruit their horses and become -thoroughly rested, preparatory to proceeding on their arduous journey. -In return for the kindness received, they taught the Indians how to -make adobe brick and construct a house. - -That history corroborates this legend is shown in an old chronicle by -the biographer of Junipero Serra, Father Palou, which says that "in -1776, after the Presidio and before the Mission (in San Francisco) were -established, an exploration of the interior was organized as usual by -sea (the bay), and land." - -Thus, in the northeast corner of the County, near Novato, was built the -first adobe house north of San Francisco Bay, on the Olompali Rancho, -owned by the late Dr. Burdell. - - [Illustration: Fourth Street, San Rafael.] - -The first adobe has long since disappeared, the last mention found of -it being a remark of General Vallejo's when, some thirty years ago, -on passing the Olompali Rancho and pointing to a crumbling adobe he -remarked to a companion, "That is over a hundred years old." - -But the adobe that concerns us, the long, low, rambling adobe, is -still standing in good condition and occupied by Dr. Burdell's family. -This was supposedly the second built and is accredited to have been -constructed by the last chief of the tribe, Camillo Ynitia. - - [Illustration: Entrance to Hotel Rafael.] - -Camillo, after obtaining three successive patents for the Rancho, first -from Spain, then from Mexico, and lastly from the United States, sold -it for five thousand dollars, which he was believed to have buried -in the vicinity. Refusing to divide the proceeds of the Rancho, and -furthermore to disclose the spot where the gold was buried, Camillo was -subsequently murdered by his brother. - - [Illustration: Hotel Rafael.] - -The Olompali Rancho is beautifully situated, lying as it does at the -base of Mt. Olompali which is believed to be an extinct volcano. - - [Illustration: The Late Owner of the Olompali.] - -Mortars found five feet under ground in the river bed, together with -sand, mud, gravel, pebbles, and cement strata on the mountain side, -testify to volcanic action. - -From this mountain which formerly, in unknown ages emitted hot, -sulphuric gases from its bosom, now runs a clear and limpid stream, a -perpetual penance to nature for the havoc it once wrought. - -When the Spaniards first visited the County, there were said to be -thirty distinct tribes of Indians, each with its separate chief; while -their language or dialect differed materially. - -That they lived on mussels, sturgeon, and game from the marshes, is -evidenced by the remains found in the huge shell mounds distributed -throughout the County. - - [Illustration: The Last of the Race.] - -What these mounds are and how they became so, is merely a matter of -conjecture, although the scientists of the University of California -and Stanford are revealing additional clues from time to time as new -deposits are discovered. - - [Illustration: A Wood Interior.] - -In the Marin mounds have been found mortars and pestles, queer old -pipes, beads of wampum, oyster picks, skulls, and in many instances -entire skeletons, while the arrow-points testify to certain warlike -propensities, although on the whole they were said to be peaceful -tribes. - - [Illustration: Summer in the Redwoods.] - -The bows which they used with such celerity and skill were uniquely -fashioned; the cord consisting of the nerves taken from a deer's back. -The Marin Indians and in fact all the California tribes, dwelt in small -huts built of willows with tules or rushes, and formed by taking a few -poles, placing them in a circle, and finally weaving them together to -a conical point, giving, when completed, the appearance of inverted -baskets. - -They were usually constructed on the banks of streams, and, being -small, were easily warmed in winter. - -The aborigines' knowledge of the proper treatment of disease was -very limited. Roots and herbs were sometimes used as remedies but the -"sweat-house" (temescal) was the principal reliance in desperate cases. - - [Illustration: A Charming Drive.] - -One of these sweat-houses was found on the Nicasio Rancheria, just over -the Olompali Mountains. - -It consisted of a large circular excavation, covered with a roof of -boughs, plastered with mud, having a hole on one side for an entrance, -another in the roof to serve as a chimney. - -A fire having been lit in the center, the sick were placed there to -undergo a sweat bath for many hours, to be succeeded by a plunge in the -ice-cold waters of a neighboring stream. - -This treatment was their cure-all, and whether it killed or -relieved the patient depended upon the nature of his disease and his -constitution. - - [Illustration: Browsing.] - -It seems but fitting that this County, which formerly was a favorite -rendezvous of the Indians, should derive its name from a famous chief -of the Lacatuit Indians, who frequented the southern part of the -Peninsula. - -Between the years 1815 and 1824 Chief Marin, aided by his people, -is said to have vanquished the Spaniards in several skirmishes for -supremacy. Being finally captured by his enemies, and making his -escape, Marin took shelter on a tiny island in upper San Francisco Bay. -This island being subsequently called after him, communicated its name -to the adjacent mainland. - -Falling into the hands of his foes a second time, he barely escaped -being put to death through the interference of the priests at the -Mission San Rafael. - -While surveying the County several years ago, Mr. Jacob Leese had -with him as assistants the old Indian chief, Marin, and some of his -followers. It became necessary for the surveyor to establish an initial -point on the top of Mt. Tamalpais, and he wished Marin and some others -to go up with him. To this they made strong objections, stating that -the top of the Mountain was inhabited by evil spirits, and no one could -go up there and come back alive. After vainly trying to persuade them -to accompany him, Mr. Leese, finally decided to go up alone, which he -did, the Indians prophesying that they never expected to see him again. - -On reaching the top and accomplishing his purpose, he was puzzled to -know how he could convince the redskins of having reached the summit. -To do this he placed a large limb across an old dead tree, thus forming -a cross which could be seen in the Valley below. He then descended and -directed the attention of the Indians to the cross. - - [Illustration: A Characteristic Stream.] - -Prior to this, Marin had been considered by his followers as the -bravest man in the world. He therefore found that it would never do for -him to be afraid to attempt what a white man had accomplished. - -Marin then determined, against the most earnest entreaties of his men, -to go up where the white man had been. Tearing himself from his men he -ascended the Mountain alone and when there had to study how he should -convince his followers of the fact. - -Unwinding his outer blanket he suspended it on the arm of Mr. Leese's -cross, having done which, he descended the Mountain. - -On seeing him without his garment, his followers concluded that he had -been robbed by the Devil himself; but pointing out to them his blanket -waving upon the cross, much joy was expressed over his restoration to -them as the bravest of the brave. - -The foregoing tale is only one of many which illustrate the profound -superstitions prevailing among the Indians. - -Certain rocks and mountains were regarded as sacred, while the grizzly -was held in superstitious awe, nothing inducing them to eat its flesh. - - [Illustration: Relics From a Shell Mound.] - - [Illustration: Haying Time.] - -The idea of a future state was universal among the California Indians, -for as they expressed it, "as the moon died and came to life again -so man came to life after death," and they believed that "the hearts -of good chiefs went up to the sky and were changed into stars to keep -watch over their tribes on earth." - -A short distance from the Olompali Rancho is Novato, a small town which -until a few years ago possessed the largest apple orchard in the world. - -At the present time the New York and the Novato French cheese factories -are its only noteworthy industries. The latter, which is representative -of a thriving, modern cheese-factory, is conveniently located beside -the California Northwestern Railway on whose cars the local shipments -are made twice each day. - -But this local trade is by no means the factory's sole outlet, for -besides supplying the Coast and the East as far as Iowa (where another -branch is located), cheese is exported to the Hawaiian Islands, Japan, -China and other foreign countries. - - [Illustration: Apple Picking in Marin.] - -In this unpretentious building, in which but twelve men are employed, -fifty thousand five-pound cases of cheese are manufactured a year, or -a little more than four thousand (cases) a month. In the spring from -twelve hundred to fourteen hundred pounds of cheese are manufactured -each day. - -Besides its famous Circle Brand Breakfast Cheese, the Novato French -Cheese Factory manufactures large quantities of Fromage de Brie, -Neufch, Sierra, Fromage de Chanembert, Schlosskase and Kummelkase. - -On a tiny island amid the marshes in this, the extreme northeastern -corner of Marin, is located the Miramonte Club. A sportsman's club -in every particular, it is very advantageously situated, for around -these northern marshes the game is very plentiful and the sportsman is -usually rewarded for his labor. - - [Illustration: Cheese Industry.] - -Besides the fowl for the larder, there are many other birds about -the marshes. In summer redwinged blackbirds, each with its scarlet -shoulder-patch, may frequently be seen, while the herons with their -long, ungainly legs are often visible wading in the pools, or standing -on some lonely reef, like solitary sentinels. - -In the winter, great flocks of little sandpipers frequent this region; -their white breasts gleaming in the sun in the course of their graceful -evolutions. Then there are the slender beaked curlews which, like the -heron, wade about the pools in search of food. - -In the fall and winter the salt-water marshes have a peculiar charm not -only for the sportsmen who delight in the abounding bird-life, but for -the humble excursionists who, gunless, admire the marvelous diversity -of coloring displayed in the grotesquely shaped marshland. - -For no other weed, grass or vine assumes a greater variety of tints -than the marsh vegetation, which from the dull russet of summer changes -to a combination of olive, purple, magenta, copper, and violet, so -harmoniously blended that, besides charming the observer, it lures many -a local artist from his studio in town. - - [Illustration: Young Herons.] - - [Illustration: On the Marsh.] - -In Marin the feathered songsters hold a unique place, for, as the -county is sparsely populated, possessing many wild, secluded valleys, -and unnumbered rolling hills covered with virgin forests, it is but -natural that the birds should congregate in great numbers, reveling in -the solitude which man invariably destroys. - -If the traveler is interested in these woodland tenants, and would -learn something of their haunts and life, he should visit one who knows -them as Thoreau knew all the wild and untamed things of nature. - -A short distance from Fairfax the San Geronimo Valley, nestling among -the hills, is a fitting location for this naturalist and bird-lover. - -Though a taxidermist of much skill, Mr. Charles Allen is more widely -known among ornithologists by that little fairy creature which makes -its appearance in the early spring, known as Allen's Hummingbird. - -Although similar in point of size, it is in its coloring that Allen's -Hummer may be distinguished from other hummingbirds, for its green -back, ruffus-tail, streaked with black, dark-wings and ruffus head, -easily separate it from other varieties. - - [Illustration: R. H. Hotaling's Residence on "Sleepy Hollow Ranch."] - -To a reflective mind there is no time of the year more joyous than -spring. All nature seems gay and full of promise. Hope is vibrant in -the air, and enters into the nature of the receptive man through more -senses than science has yet named or discovered--an unnamed sense -which is neither sight, nor sound, nor touch, nor intuition, a vibrant -unseen force which is current throughout the universe, connecting man, -unknowingly, to every tree, shrub, and atom. Thus, in the spring one -feels that: - - "There's a chorus in the valleys and an anthem on the hills - There's an echo from the music which our inner being thrills - Till we long to journey outward where no other foot has trod, - And join in the song of worship at the shrine of Nature's - God." - -Spring is synonymous with the return of the birds, and their blythe -little songs are but another promise of hope and expectation. - -Following close upon the return of Allen's Hummingbird is the little -piliolated warbler with his green back, pale, sulphur yellow breast, -and tiny "pee wit" call. - - [Illustration: The Taxidermist of Marin.] - -When the climbing roses are becoming gay with blossoms, our old -friends, the linnets, returning from their winter's sojourn in lower -California, begin to build their nests. - -A walk in the woods in the early morning or evening will acquaint -one with another spring bird, Vaux's Swift, invariably seen about the -streams. - - [Illustration: A Quail's Nest.] - -In our hasty glimpse of the birds, it is impossible to enumerate all -the feathered flock, and the renewal of a few old acquaintances will -have to suffice. A very characteristic summer inhabitant of Marin's -woodlands is the Red Shafted Flicker, a large bird, conspicuous when -flying for its gay plumage, and often seen about the stumps of rotten -trees, in the holes of which it makes its nest. While strolling -in the woods we are often startled by a sharp rat-tat-tat on a -neighboring alder, and on close approach a flutter of wings discloses -a black-and-white creature with a dash of scarlet on his head. This is -Harris's Woodpecker which makes the silent woods resound to its noisy -rapping. A harsh, squawking call, a swift flight of blue wings, and -an ensuing, noisy chatter announce the saucy California jay--the least -lovable to my mind of all the California birds. He is the Rockefeller -of the bird-world, consuming and destroying the eggs of his fellow -birds, leaving destruction and ruin in his wake in the shape of -desolate, broken nests. A pleasing contrast to this sharp, unruly bird, -is the large, beautiful orange mottled Bullock's Oriole, who fills the -air near sundown, with his rich, melodious warble, which he repeats -with never-tiring zeal. - - [Illustration: A Humming Bird's Nest.] - - [Illustration: Little Songsters.] - -Of the fall birds, the crows and Brewer's Blackbirds are the most -notable. Though the former are with us the entire year, it is in the -fall, in flocking time, that their loud caw-caw-caw is heard as in -bands they circle above the tree-tops; while Brewer's Blackbirds, -sleek, glossy fellows, after foraging throughout the day in the -valleys, soar to some huge dead pine tree and chatter through the -twilight hours, flying when night arrives, with one accord, to a patch -of tules in some pond where they settle for the night. - - [Illustration: A Sportsman.] - -Of the non-migrating birds, the little dark brown Wren Tit, inhabitant -of thickets; the dull gray and white Titmouse, frequenter of oaks; the -friendly little California Chickadee; not to mention the great horned -Owls with their deep hoo-hoo-hoo, the barn-owls with their treble -screech, and lastly the beautiful oft-abused Quail, are but a few of -the interesting native inhabitants of Marin. - - [Illustration: Near to Nature's Heart.] - -Owing to the widely scattered population in the northern part of -Marin County, this section is consequently more wild and natural in -appearance than the southern half. - -Lying at the base of a range of high hills which slope somewhat -abruptly to the Ocean are the most interesting natural phenomena in -this region. This is a chain of sparkling lakes, three in number, -which at first view on descending the precipitous roadway seem to be -connected with the Ocean so near its edge do they appear. - -Upon close approach, however, we discovered them to be of fresh water -and at an elevation of nine hundred feet above sea level, but their -close proximity to the Ocean and the cavernous inlets opening from the -sea would intimate their former connection. - - [Illustration: A Bend in The Road.] - -On the shore of the largest of these, Shafter Lake, is located, amid -the luxuriant copse wood, the Point Reyes Sportsmen's Club House. As -the lakes are stocked with black bass, land-locked salmon, and various -kinds of trout the angler is a familiar figure in the vicinity; and the -abounding deer, quail, ducks, and snipe, attract the huntsman, while -the beauty of these unique lakes and their picturesque environs, though -little known to the general public, induce many a local pedestrian to -take the twelve-mile tramp from Olema, through the forests over the -steep ridges and down among the chemisal and sagebrush to this Ocean -retreat. - - [Illustration: One of the Sparkling Lakes.] - -Some four miles northwest of the lakes a narrow valley, lined by -massive barren hills, winds its way to the Pacific. Mammoth oaks adorn -its wild and tangled glades, huge redwoods lift their lofty tops to the -sky, while ferns and trailing vines festoon the banks and rocks with -such luxuriance that the whole seems a riot of contending greens. - -Winding in and out like a silver thread among the stately trees and -saplings is a little stream which fills the air with freshness and the -cadence of a song, while hanging in fantastic, airy festoons from the -trees which look in consequence like bearded Druids, covering trunks -and branches, spreading its delicate traceries on the rocks, and -abounding on every conceivable object are such masses of vari-colored -moss that one would feign exclaim, "Surely this should be called Moss, -not Bear Valley!" for while the latter roving inhabitants have long -since disappeared, the former is and no doubt will remain, in evidence -until the forest is no more. - -It is necessary to see this Valley in order to comprehend its beauty. - - [Illustration: Shafter Lake.] - -One can drive through its cool depths on a finely graded road amid -thousands of majestic trees, while here and there an open space reveals -the sunlight and the blue sky overhead in contrast with the dim, -uncertain light pervading its woodland stretches. - -No lover of the beautiful can regret a jaunt to this delightful spot, -for the charm and witchery of its unique beauty remain in the memory -long after the excursion is a thing of the past; even as the perfume of -a rose remains after the flower has faded. - -The sole habitation in Bear Valley, located in a charming sunny -exposure with imposing trees and garden surrounding it, is the Country -Club, famous in local circles. - - [Illustration: On the Shore of Shafter Lake.] - -The deep baying of hounds from its extensive kennels forms the only -discordant note in the Valley, reminding one that even near to nature's -heart man's inherent primitiveness asserts itself. If, when wandering -in these woodland fastnesses, he (man) would hunt the wild creatures -with a camera it would require greater patience, skill and acumen than -making the ground wet with the blood of fawns and quail. - - [Illustration: Entering Bear Valley.] - -But "civilization has ever developed the physical and the intellectual -at the expense of the psychic, the humane, and the spiritual." - - [Illustration: The Country Club.] - -Notwithstanding its small area, numerable excursions offer themselves -to the ambitious tourist in Marin, while the diversity of its surface -and climate, and the ease with which one can explore its remaining -primeval stretches, make this tiny northern peninsula a necessary -adjunct to San Francisco, which, with its ever-increasing population, -needs an outlet for recreation, relaxation, and repose. - - [Illustration: Among the Ferns.] - -Moreover, as the other Bay counties are less rugged in formation, -more inhabited, and consequently more conventional in appearance, true -nature-lovers find an outing in Marin a solace and an inspiration. - - [Illustration: At the Trough.] - -A short distance from Bear Valley the road, after passing a stretch of -low marsh-land covered with tules, reeds, and willows, comes suddenly -to a sheet of water which at first sight appears to be an inland lake, -so peaceful and protected are its waters. - -This is none other than Tomales Bay--a long, narrow inlet from the -Ocean. - -At the base of the range of lofty hills which shelter it on the west -is situated Inverness, the location of the tract of three thousand and -three hundred acres which was recently sold, constituting, it is said, -the largest single transaction in suburban lands ever made in this part -of California, or in fact anywhere else in this State. It involved over -half a million dollars, and is reputed to be the beginning of a new -movement in Marin. - - [Illustration: Nearing Tomales Bay.] - -The land is to be divided for summer homes and cottages; and as the -nearest station is Point Reyes, it is planned to operate a ferry across -Tomales Bay, which would shorten the distance to the railroad where a -new station is to be erected. - -Extensive plans are also on foot to extend the electric road from its -present northern terminus at Fairfax to Inverness, and once that is -accomplished, the new summer resort and suburban town will be brought -within a little more than an hour's ride of San Francisco. - -Besides its many rural attractions there are more than six miles of -sand beach at Inverness, and the tide on going out exposes the sand to -the sun, which warms the water on its return, and insures delightful -bathing during the summer. - - [Illustration: Tomales Bay.] - - [Illustration: Church of the Assumption, Tomales.] - -Unlike many of the counties of California, Marin, during the gold -period, attracted very little attention among the miners. Her chief, -and, in fact, only industry in those days was the raising of stock. -About the year 1860 the people in the northern part of the County, -especially in the Tomales district, located on the eastern part -of upper Tomales Bay, began growing potatoes with such successful -results that the County soon gained the name of an unusually fertile -potato-raising region. - -Although stock, potato-raising, and dairying are still continued in -a small degree in the vicinity of Tomales, the chicken industry is -gradually superseding them, and the success attending this latest -departure portends well for the future of this section. - -The small ranches, which formerly were most all incumbered with one or -more mortgages, are now being cleared, and the general aspect for the -small rancher is greatly improved. - -Poultry raising as conducted under the present modern system is vastly -superior to anything of its kind in former years. - -Some idea of the dimensions of this industry were gained during a -recent visit made by the author to one of these modern poultry farms. -The ranch was of average size, and in the neat yards inclosed by -high wire fences I saw some thirteen hundred laying hens, while eight -hundred pullets for the market, all graded as to age, were in various -yards. - - [Illustration: Feeding Time.] - -From this ranch between five and six cases of eggs are shipped every -week, each case containing thirty-six dozen; averaging two hundred and -seventy-five cases or thirty thousand eggs per year. - -In the laying season over seven hundred eggs are gathered daily. - - [Illustration: Chicken Ranches in Marin.] - -The multitudinous, airy, white-washed hen houses in the numerous, -cleanly, sunny inclosures; the fields of grain raised for the fowls' -consumption; the incubator room and the adjoining brooder; the granary, -from which at stated periods the food is measured, are all adjuncts of -the modern poultry ranch. - -It is interesting to watch the great flocks of fowl, all snowy white -(the white leghorn being preferred), darting noisily toward the -attendant as he enters their enclosure at feeding-time, and the ensuing -scramble for wheat, and the continuous pick-pick-pick verily make the -hen a definition for perpetual motion--in feeding-time, at least. - -As but five acres of ground are necessary to carry on successfully a -moderate size chicken ranch, it may be seen how with less outlay and -incident expenses the small rancher can make better profits in this -industry than in dairying. - - [Illustration: Defacing Nature.] - -West of Tomales Bay a long narrow neck of land stretches far out into -the Pacific. Though somewhat barren in appearance, owing to the dearth -of trees and the abundance of low, tangled sagebrush, the fact that -grass grows the entire year on its slopes makes Point Reyes the famous -dairying center of Marin. - -Ever since the early eighties dairying has been the leading industry of -the County, and, although carried on in all sections of Marin, it is on -Point Reyes that it assumes the most extensive proportions. - -The ranches there are larger in extent, all owned by one person, namely -Mr. Webb Howard, and are rented yearly by the tenants, the cattle being -included with the land. - - [Illustration: Dairying on the Edge of the Pacific.] - -The average ranch on the Point contains about fourteen hundred and -fifty acres and one hundred and eighty cows; the old stock being -replenished as required. - -Great quantities of butter are shipped by schooner and rail to the City -where it finds a ready market, as the Marin County butter is known to -be of a superior quality. - -A trip to the Point by carriage cannot be made under two days at -the shortest, and as hotels and inns are unknown in this region, the -traveler is obliged to solicit shelter for the night from one of the -ranch houses which are scattered at wide intervals. - - [Illustration: In the Pasture.] - -There are few places, save Ireland, where hospitality, the real -whole-souled, hearty, genuine hospitality, is so dispensed without -question to the stranger as in this tiny northwest corner of Marin. - -Though loath to intrude, the hearty reception tendered and the ensuing -civilities received convince the wayfarer of his welcome, and have -earned a reputation for these good people rivaling in proportion the -Emerald Isle itself. - -After spending the night at one of these ranches we proceeded on the -following morning to the most interesting, fascinating, and historical -sheet of water in Marin County. - -In 1577, Sir Francis, then only Captain, Drake, already distinguished -as an experienced navigator, fitted out, with the pecuniary aid of the -court, a buccaneering expedition against the Spaniards. - -After reaching the Pacific and intercepting several privateers, he -bethought himself of another object, that of finding the much-talked-of -northern passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic. - - [Illustration: Going Home.] - -If he could discover this passage, he would not only perform a -notable service to his country, but would have a comparatively short -and safe voyage homeward. But after a run of nearly two months, -he experienced such bitterly cold weather, his people suffered so -severely, and his heavily-laden ship leaked so badly, that he deemed -it prudent to abandon any further search for a northern strait; and -accordingly running down the Coast in search of a stopping place, he -passed the long, projecting promontory of Point Reyes, and under its -lee discovered "a convenient and fit harbor" in which he anchored on -June 17th, 1579. At this place, which is now known as Drake's Bay, he -remained thirty-six days. During that period, which was required to -thoroughly repair and refit his vessel, he had a number of interviews, -and some remarkable intercourse with the natives. - - [Illustration: A Marin Ranch.] - - [Illustration: Sir Francis Drake.--From an old English Painting.] - -Upon sailing into the harbor he found a wild, desolate looking beach; -but the next day Indians appeared in considerable numbers. One of them -paddled out in a canoe to within hailing distance of the ship, where he -made a long oration, accompanied by violent gestures, after which he -returned to the shore. Approaching the ship a second time in the same -manner, he brought with him a head-dress of black feathers tastefully -arranged, and a small basket, neatly woven, filled with an herb called -"tabah." These he delivered to the English, and with the exception of -a hat could not be induced to accept any of the presents offered him in -return. - - [Illustration: A Bay of Solitude.] - -All his actions, as well as of the people on shore, indicated respect -and deference for the English, as if they were a superior race of -beings. - -In the course of a few days Drake, having carefully surveyed the place, -brought his ship to anchor near the shore and landed his men with arms -and provisions to set up tents and build a barricade. The Indians at -this collected on the neighboring hills and looked down with wonder -and amazement, so much so, that the English supposed themselves taken -for gods; a supposition which proved correct, for, descending, the male -Indians brought ornaments, net-work, quivers, skins, etc., intended for -offerings, while the women performed divers wild and violent dances, in -which many of the participants were cut and wounded. - - [Illustration: Drake's Bay.] - -In order to prevent a repetition of this gruesome spectacle, Drake -ordered religious services to be performed in their presence, thus -indicating that they too were but creatures of a God above. - -After prayers, psalms were sung which especially attracted the -attention of the Indians. - -Music was a language they could understand, being a universal language -intelligible to every human heart; and they were so delighted that at -every pause they testified their pleasure. - - [Illustration: A Bit of Rocky Shore.] - -The business of repairing and refitting the vessel being at length -finished, the cargo re-embarked and the peaceful character of the -Indians being now so well understood that no trouble from them was -apprehended, Drake, with a number of his crew made a short excursion -inland, which being necessarily made on foot extended but a few miles, -and did not afford any wide or distant view; and the English, like the -Spaniards under Cabrillo, though within less than a day's travel of -the most spacious and magnificent bay in the world, had no idea of its -existence. - - [Illustration: Marin Cows.] - -When ready to sail, Drake erected, by way of monument and memorial of -his having been there and taken possession of the country, a large -post, firmly planted, upon which he caused to be nailed a plate of -brass engraven with the name of the English Queen, the day and date -of his arrival, the voluntary submission of the inhabitants to English -sovereignty, and beneath all, his own name. Fastened to the plate was -an English sixpence of recent coinage, so placed as to exhibit Her -Majesty's likeness. - -All of which goes to prove that Drake supposed himself to be the -discoverer of this region, and was not aware that thirty-six years -previously the Spaniards had passed the same Coast and anticipated him. - -Having found no northern passage to the Atlantic, and making up his -mind that if one existed it was too far north to be practical, Drake -returned by the route pointed out by Magellan in his circumnavigation -of the globe. - -On July 23d, after many ceremonies of a religious character, and -taking an appropriate farewell of the sorrowful natives, he stood out -to sea. As his ship lessened in the distance, following the sun over -the trackless waste of waters, the Indians ran to the tops of their -hills to keep it in view as long as possible, and lighted fires, which -indicated, long after they themselves could be distinguished from the -vessel, that they were still watchful, and doubtless turning their -straining eyes toward the departing strangers. - - [Illustration: Drake's Cross.] - -The waves of three centuries have lapped these shores; countless storms -have swept over the promontories, and many tempests have grappled with -its cliffs since the year when Sir Francis first dropped anchor in the -Bay which ultimately bore his name. - -Time has made few changes in this Ocean inlet, as man has practically -shunned it; for excepting a small cabin on the beach, no habitation -meets the eye. The schooner which touches there three times a week -to load with butter is the only keel that rides its waves, and the -aspect of the lofty white cliffs which encircle this Bay of Solitude -are unaltered since the time when, attracting the English navigator to -their shores, they received, because of their resemblance to his native -cliffs of Dover, the appellation New Albion. - -It seems unjust and absurd that on the shores of this Bay, which was -the theater of Drake's actions in our State, no post, stone or monument -is placed whereon to commemorate his landing, or inform the traveler of -the history enacted there; while in Golden Gate Park on a mound which -his eyes never saw, on soil which his feet never trod, a lofty granite -cross rears its solid strength in his commemoration; an illustration of -the inconsistencies of man. - - [Illustration: A Rugged Coast Line.] - - [Illustration: Point Reyes.] - -Point Reyes should be called the home of the meadowlark for, while -found in other parts of the County, it is on this northern point that -the larks congregate in such numbers that the air is always vibrant -with their cheerful, happy songs. - -Perched on the lichen-covered fences, these large, plump, -yellow-breasted fellows are invariably heard warbling their rich, -mellow notes with untiring energy, and making, to my mind, the sweetest -and most enchanting of all music. - -There is perhaps no more dangerous and uninviting extent of coast line -from Oregon to Mexico than that extending from Point Reyes northward to -the mouth of Tomales Bay. - -To go ashore at any point along this line is to go to certain -destruction, and the fact of its proximity to the harbor of San -Francisco renders it doubly dangerous, as vessels have gone hard ashore -under full sail, little dreaming that danger was near and thinking that -they were heading for the Golden Gate. - -Since the establishment, on the extreme point, of the lighthouse in -1870, there have been few wrecks compared with former years, while -those imperiled on the Coast receive assistance from the brave crew of -the life-saving station located on the beach. - - [Illustration: Point Reyes Life-Saving Station.] - -Near the close of a very murky, foggy day, in August, 1875, a sailing -vessel, the Warrior Queen, bound from Auckland, New Zealand, to San -Francisco, went ashore on the beach, about three miles north of the -Point. - -The sky had been so overcast with fog that her officers had not been -able to take any observations for ten days and their "dead-reckoning" -showed them to be many miles at sea. - -Suddenly they found themselves in the breakers going ashore on a sand -beach and by immediately casting anchor, the vessel was held from going -hard ashore, although she was later driven far upon the beach. - -The men embarked in three boats and put to sea rather than try to -effect a landing in the surf, and reached San Francisco safely the -following day. - - [Illustration: Plowing in October.] - -When the Warrior Queen was discovered by the settlers the next morning -after she struck, there was consequently no sign of life on board, -and it became a matter of conjecture to those who had assembled on the -beach as to what had become of the crew. - -It was decided to go on board and discover, if possible, something to -show the fate of the men, but the difficulty which confronted them was -how to communicate with the ship. - - [Illustration: "The Warrior Queen."] - -At last, Mr. Henry Claussen, a sea-faring man of much experience (who -still lives with his family on the Point), volunteered to swim out to -the vessel and take a line on board with him. He performed the daring -feat and was rewarded by finding that all books and instruments were -gone, hence he knew that the men had put to sea. - -On a ranch but a short distance from the light-house the only known -relic of the wreck remains. This is none other than the Warrior Queen -herself-the figure-head of the vessel. Clad in a suit of mail, a shield -clenched tightly to her side, with head upraised in proud defiance, the -Warrior Queen seems still to send a challenge to the elements; but now -her battle is for life itself--against rain and wind and the decay of -time. - - [Illustration: The Lighthouse.] - -While prolific in legends and memories, history is not the only -vivifying current in Marin, and though linked inseparably with the -past, she is not a worn and decrepit matron relying on artifice solely -to revive her charms, but a young and vigorous maiden, in whom the -ambitions, powers, and possibilities are all centered but untried. - - [Illustration: Cloud-Hosts.] - -That a new era is awakening for this region is without doubt. Large -tracts of land formerly held intact are now being divided into building -lots, and the rapidity with which these are selling portends a rapidly -increasing population. - -Various railroads are contending for rights of way, and countless -rumors are in circulation, any of which means a changed aspect for the -County. - - [Illustration: Where the Waves Break.] - -The Marin Terminal is constructing a route from Petaluma to Point San -Pedro, and two railroad companies have filed articles of incorporation -for the avowed purpose of making some points on Marin's shore the land -terminus for railroads from San Francisco to points in the northern -part of the State. - -The recent purchase of Silva Island, in Richardson's Bay, by the -officials of the Western Pacific gives credence to a rumor that, a long -wharf being constructed from this Island, the company would institute -a terminus there. - -The facilities which this County offers for a railroad center are -undeniable; while the monopolistic control of the surrounding Bay -terminals renders another railroad outlet a practical necessity, and -its adjacency to San Francisco and the excellent harbors which skirt -its shores make Marin a natural and practical center. - - [Illustration: The Glory of the Dying Day.] - -Without doubt the ensuing years will witness many radical changes for -this northern peninsula. - -With the increase in population there is every probability that a -connection from Point San Pedro across to the Belt Line on the Contra -Costa shore will be consummated, linking the Bay counties by a boat -ride of scarce fifteen minutes. - -The new coaling station which the Government will erect at California -City, a small place near Tiburon, is another enterprise in the County, -which will call for the expenditure of more than three hundred and -fifty thousand dollars. It is said that the Bureau of Equipment of the -Navy Department has already signed with a New York firm to begin on -this. - -Having reached the limits of Marin's enterprises, and territory, Point -Reyes, from which westward stretches an apparent infinitude of sea, -to where the sun, now dipping on the verge of the horizon, casts its -refulgent beams, I gazed backward on Marin which lay behind me glowing -in the glory of the dying day. - -The indented shore, on whose cliffs nature has hung no tapestry of -verdure, now enshrouded in the lambent haze, no longer looked as if -composed of material objects, but rather like its luminous wraith -emerging from the sea. And as the mists of evening veiled it gradually -from my view I murmured: - -"There is a future as well as a past for this little County, a future -not painted in the dim tints of the fading day, but in the bright, -glorious radiance of the expectant morrow." - - [Illustration] - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of In Tamal Land, by Helen Bingham - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN TAMAL LAND *** - -***** This file should be named 56061.txt or 56061.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/6/0/6/56061/ - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. 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