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diff --git a/old/55952-0.txt b/old/55952-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 8085e6b..0000000 --- a/old/55952-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7695 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Memoirs of the Late War, Vol 1 (of 2), by -John Cooke and George Fitzclarence and John Moodie - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - -Title: Memoirs of the Late War, Vol 1 (of 2) - Comprising the Personal Narrative of Captain Cooke, of the - 43rd Regiment Light Infantry; the History of the Campaign - of 1809 in Portugal, by the Earl of Munster; and a Narrative - of the Campaign of 1814 in Holland, by Lieut. T. W. D. - Moodie, H. P. 21st FusileersVolume 1 (of 2) - -Author: John Cooke - George Fitzclarence - John Moodie - -Release Date: November 13, 2017 [EBook #55952] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMOIRS OF THE LATE WAR *** - - - - -Produced by Brian Coe, Larry B. Harrison, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - MEMOIRS - OF - THE LATE WAR. - - VOL. I. - - - - - The United Service Journal - AND - NAVAL AND MILITARY MAGAZINE. - - -This new and interesting miscellany is regularly published by Messrs. -COLBURN AND BENTLEY every month, price 3s 6d. The following opinion -will at once demonstrate its claims on the attention of the public. - - "The United Service Journal is confessedly one of the best - periodicals of its kind that have ever issued from the Public - Press. No Monthly Journal has yet appeared so devotedly attached - to the interests of the Army and Navy, or whose claims to the - patronage of both services are so strikingly conspicuous. It is - full of agreeable anecdote and useful information. In its pages we - find a faithful and most interesting record of past achievements, - whether on sea or land, diversified by many characteristic traits - of British heroism, and national gallantry, from the lowest to - the highest rank in the Service. New improvements in gunnery, - navigation, and the art of War, are exposed to view with the - commanding powers of a master hand, while no subject is omitted - which could by possibility involve the honour and welfare of our - Army and Navy. In fine, the Journal affords us a correct summary - of all changes in the station of Regiments and Ships of the line, - besides an authentic return of the Promotions in the Red and the - Blue. Independently of the attractions it has for a military man, - this periodical may be read with much pleasure by a civilian, - and we feel much gratification in stating that it enjoys a very - considerable patronage."—_Limerick Chronicle._ - -[asterism] The above Periodical is regularly supplied by all -Booksellers and Newsvenders, and may also be forwarded to friends and -relatives abroad, by giving orders, and making payment accordingly, -and those who may be desirous of obtaining it, are requested to give -their orders to any Bookseller or Newsman in their own immediate -neighbourhood. - - - LONDON: - G. SCHULZE, 13, POLAND STREET. - - - - - MEMOIRS - OF - THE LATE WAR: - COMPRISING - THE PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF - CAPTAIN COOKE, - OF THE 43rd REGIMENT LIGHT INFANTRY; - THE HISTORY OF THE CAMPAIGN OF 1809 - IN PORTUGAL, - BY THE EARL OF MUNSTER; - AND A NARRATIVE OF - THE CAMPAIGN OF 1814 IN HOLLAND, - BY LIEUT. T. W. D. MOODIE, H. P. 21ST FUSILEERS. - - IN TWO VOLUMES. - VOL. I. - - LONDON: - HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY, - NEW BURLINGTON STREET. - 1831. - - - - - CONTENTS - OF THE FIRST VOLUME. - - PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF CAPTAIN COOKE. - - - CHAPTER I. - - Page. - - Initiation into military life—State of the militia - force—Preparations against the expected invasion from - Boulogne—French prisoners—An accident—The author occupies - a dull post near Grimsby—An enlivening incident connected - with the tender passion—Love cooled by aqueous immersion, - and rekindled by bright eyes—Earl Fitzwilliam—Quarters - in Bristol—A fatal affray—Clifton—The author engaged in - an affair of honour—Anecdote—The author enters the - line—Return of the British army from the Peninsula—Severe - drilling. 1 - - - CHAPTER II. - - Scene of embarkation for foreign service at Deal—A - character—Force and objects of the expedition—Arrival off - Walcheren—Siege and capture of Flushing—Disastrous sickness - among the troops—Evacuation of Walcheren, with the author's - adventure on the occasion—The return to England—Napoleon's - situation at that period. 34 - - - CHAPTER III. - - Progress of distemper on the re-landing of the regiment in - England—Change of quarters—Amusements—Colchester—An - eventful water party—The author obtains leave to join the - detachment proceeding to Portugal—A Review—A tale of - dental dislocation—Embarkation at Spithead—Landing in - Portugal—Incidents of an evening—Amusements at Lisbon, and - departure from that city. 54 - - - CHAPTER IV. - - March to Santarem and Abrantes—Scenery and incidents at - Aronches—Junction with some other regiments—Military scene - in a wood—Anticipatory reflections on the fate of some of - the author's comrades—Quarters at Portalagre, Castello de - Vida and Marvao—Bridge of boats across the Tagus—Contiguous - scenery—Horrors of travelling for invalids in the Portuguese - cars. 71 - - - CHAPTER V. - - March continued—Wild and striking aspect of the - country—Excellence of discipline—Camp followers—Spanish - peasant girls and men—Plain of Fuente de Guinaldo—Reflections - on a soldier's life—A vegetable conflagration—Village of - Martiago—Difficulties of the French—Arrival in cantonments—The - paymaster's peculiarities. 85 - - - CHAPTER VI. - - The author is attacked by illness—Miseries of military - travelling in that condition—Quarters at Celorico—The - author's difficult recovery—Grievous sufferings endured - by the soldiers affected with fever in the sickly season—Death - of the Paymaster—The author rejoins his Division—Movements - of the French—A clerical case of disaster—The contested - mattress—A dance—Expensive celebration of Christmas—Story - of the German suttler—Village and neighbourhood of Fuente - de Guinaldo—Theatrical representations by the English - officers. 100 - - - CHAPTER VII. - - Preparations for the siege of Ciudad Rodrigo—A review of the - light Division by Lord Wellington—The fort and convent of - Saint Francisco taken—Storming the breach—Capture of the - place—Regulations for the prevention of plunder—Disorders - committed in the city—Remarks and anecdotes connected with - the siege—Burial of General Craufurd—Removal of quarters - to El Bodon—Vestiges of the previous engagement near that - place—Ciudad Rodrigo consigned to a Spanish garrison—March - towards Badajoz—Castello de Vida—Fortress of Elvas—An - accidental acquaintance. 114 - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - March from Elvas to Badajoz—Defences of that city—The - investment—A sortie—Operations of the batteries—Capture - of fort Picurina—Preparations for the grand assault—Advance - of the "forlorn hope"—Desperate encounter at the - breaches—Loss of life experienced by the British—The mode - of attack changed to escalade with success—The city sacked - by the British troops—Reflections respecting the conduct - of the siege—Incidental anecdotes. 133 - - - CHAPTER IX. - - Movements of the enemy after the fall of Badajoz—March of - the British light and third divisions towards Ciudad - Rodrigo—Dispositions for a fresh campaign—Excellent - marching arrangement of the light division—Occupation of - Salamanca by the British, and investment of the forts—Advance - of the French army—Skirmishing and cannonading—Surrender - of the forts by the French—English quarters at Rueda, and - amusements there—Movements of the author's division—A - breakfast party broken up—Personal escape of the - commander-in-chief—Active manœuvres of the contending - forces—Retrograde movement of the British towards - Salamanca—Relative position of the two armies—Battle of - Salamanca. 157 - - - CHAPTER X. - - Well-performed retreat of the French after the battle of - Salamanca—Progress of the English troops—Description of the - Spanish plains and towns—Custom of the Siesta—Movements of - Joseph Bonaparte—Bivouac at Olmedo, and ball given there by - Lord Wellington—Advance of the British army, and entry into - Valladolid—A swimming adventure—Illness of the author, and his - removal to the town of Cuellar—Timorous conduct of the Portuguese - dragoons—The English army enters Madrid—Incidents attending - the author's further removal as an invalid to Salamanca—General - position of affairs on the Continent—Operations of Sir R. - Hill—Re-capture of Valladolid—Unsuccessful siege of - Burgos—Various movements of the forces. 191 - - - CHAPTER XI. - - The author becomes convalescent, and proceeds to rejoin the - army—Guadarama mountains—Park and Palace of the Escurial—An - enthusiastic native—A Spanish bandit—British quarters in - Madrid, and description of the city—English theatricals—Renewed - activity of the contending armies—The British troops evacuate - Madrid—Romantic attachments—Alba de Tormes—Re-occupation of - Salamanca—Military discomforts—Skirmishing affairs—The French - obliged to desist from pursuit through fatigue—Various positions - of the British forces during the winter of 1812-13. 211 - - - CHAPTER XII. - - The light Division reviewed by the Commander-in-chief—Reinforcements - from England—The army again in motion—Encampment of the light - division between Rodrigo and Salamanca—The German hussars—March - to Salamanca, the French retreating—Scene in the Cathedral at - Salamanca—Crossing the Tormes, and progress of the march—Passage - of the Esla—Affair at Toro with the French heavy - horse—Concentration of the whole army, and march through Valencia - towards Burgos—An accommodating priest—Capture of French baggage - and prisoners—Details of the battle of Vittoria. 242 - - - CHAPTER XIII. - - Pursuit of the enemy after the battle of Vittoria—Curious - spectacle and adventure in a French bivouac—Advance towards - Pampeluna, and repulse of the French rear-guard—Retreat of - the main body of the enemy into France—Reflections on the policy - of King Joseph—Change of the British route, and encampment at - Sanguessa—A casual dance—Return to Pampeluna—Expulsion of the - French from the valley of Bastan—The Basque peasantry—Town of - Bera—Position for covering Pampeluna and St. Sebastian—Preparations - for the attack of the latter place—The command of the French - assumed by the Duke of Dalmatia—A family scene—Position of the - French army. 274 - - - CHAPTER XIV. - - Offensive operations of the Duke of Dalmatia—Partial retrogression - of the British—Ill success in the storming of the breaches at - St. Sebastian—Movements of the various divisions—Great extent - of the British line along the Pyrenees—Interesting domestic - scene attending the departure of the Author's Division from the - town of Bera—Battle of Pampeluna—Embarrassing situation of - the light division through an accidental separation from the - army—Successes obtained over the French, and their consequent - retreat—Active movements, and capture of the enemy's baggage—A - trait of character—Continued advantages gained over the French, - who are driven beyond the Pyrenees. 300 - - - - - PERSONAL NARRATIVE - OF - CAPTAIN COOKE. - - - - - MEMOIRS - OF - CAPTAIN COOKE. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - Initiation into military life—State of the militia - force—Preparations against the expected invasion from - Boulogne—French prisoners—An accident—The author occupies - a dull post near Grimsby—An enlivening incident connected - with the tender passion—Love cooled by aqueous immersion, - and rekindled by bright eyes—Earl Fitzwilliam—Quarters in - Bristol—A fatal affray—Clifton—The author engaged in an - affair of honour—Anecdote—The author enters the line—Return - of the British army from the Peninsula—Severe drilling. - - -On the 24th of January, 1805, I made my _début_ on the parade as -ensign in the first West York, powdered and equipped in full uniform, -with an artificial tail of considerable length tied round my neck, a -cocked hat square to the front and a sword five inches shorter than -the regulation, made in proportion to my height, being only four feet -eleven inches, and within one month of attaining my fourteenth year. - -My diminutive figure soon attracted the attention of the leading -company of the regiment, composed of gigantic Yorkshire grenadiers[1], -and excited so much merriment among them, and so encreased my previous -confusion, that my eyes became dim and my feet seemed scarcely to touch -the ground. However, some kind expressions from the officers who came -forward and surrounded me, and their gay appearance soon dispelled my -inquietude. - -A short time proved sufficient to instruct me in the duties required; -and the varied amusements caused the early months of my career to glide -rapidly on. Our uniform was plain, faced with green, but suddenly -altered owing to an officer of expensive habits, who ordered a new -coat to be made and covered with a profusion of gold lace, in which -he appeared at the mess table, and so captivated his companions by -his rich display, that a unanimous burst of admiration broke forth. -Although the lieutenant colonel was as much averse from any thing of -the sort as it was possible for any one to be, the new pattern was -carried by acclamation, and a tacit consent wrung from the commanding -officer, intermixed with his hearty execrations. Frequently, after the -alteration, he used to wear his old coat at the mess table by way of a -treat, when, to his extreme mortification, the very officer who caused -the change would throw out hints about officers being unregimentally -dressed. - -Such was the ingenuity of this individual, that on being refused leave -of absence, he waited personally on a general, and afterwards declared -that he had represented the necessity of his appearance at home in such -moving words, that he not only obtained double the time originally -asked for, but also drew tears of sympathy from the general's eyes. - -In the early part of the summer, General Sir John Moore inspected us -on our parade ground, and was pleased to pass his high encomiums on -the very fine appearance and steadiness of the men while under arms. -Indeed the militia at large were equal to the line[2], in the execution -of their evolutions and discipline, and were well adapted for the -defence of their native shores, at this epoch threatened with invasion -by the French. Had their services been required to repel such an -aggression,—led on by experienced generals, without doubt they would -have proved themselves equal to cope with any troops in the world; -and those who had an opportunity of judging at that time, will, I am -confident, fully coincide with me and join in just admiration at the -high state of perfection that national force had been brought to. - -During the summer the troops in the numerous towns and camps in Kent -were reviewed. Our brigade left Ashford and joined two battalions of -the rifle corps, 95th[3], at Bradbourne Lees and manœuvred before the -Duke of York. The 43rd and 52nd light infantry regiments were organised -under the immediate superintendence of Sir John Moore[4] (assisted by -Major General McKenzie) at Hythe, and Shorncliff camp, in the most -exemplary manner. Those corps were indeed the admiration of all, for -their discipline, and the rapidity of their light movements, all of -which being executed on the moveable pivot, by divisions, or sections, -formed columns, squares, lines, and echelon, without a halt, by merely -marking time. - -The moveable pivot preserved a regular cadence, handsome to the sight, -and of great utility. In course of time these useful evolutions -extended throughout the army, and, for aught I know, are still called -"NEW!" with perhaps a few alterations. - -The officers of these regiments wore a neat soldier-like uniform -of scarlet, facings white and buff, with a pair of small silver -epaulettes; and such was the similarity of costume of the two corps, -that, at a short distance, it was hardly possible to distinguish -one from the other; and, when formed in a line on the green sod at -Shorncliff, they presented a fine coup d'œil. The rifle corps wore dark -green with black lace, helmets and long green feathers[5]. - -It is a strange coincidence, that these corps should have been so near -each other, (almost within sight of Napoleon's grand camp at Boulogne) -for the purpose of joining their efforts to repel the threatened attack -on the coast, and that, in after years, they should be united in a -series of brilliant victories gained over the French legions, during -a period of service, which, in future ages, will create wonder at the -extraordinary rise and fall of Napoleon in the centre of civilised -Europe; whose legions like an overwhelming lava spread death and -destruction far and wide; drove all nature into mourning, and converted -Europe into an hospital. - -Napoleon at this period had formed at Boulogne and its vicinity a -powerful army, which he hoped to be enabled to throw across the -channel by the end of August and effect a landing in England under the -protection of the combined French and Spanish fleets, commanded by -Admiral Villeneuve, who was expected from the West Indies about that -time to concentrate the different fleets in the French and Spanish -ports, to be composed of sixty ships of war destined to cover the -numerous flotilla which was also to be crowded with soldiers inured to -war. - -Every effort on the part of this country was made to frustrate such a -design. Martello towers had been erected along the coast of Kent at -certain distances, and thousands of navigators and soldiers were hard -at work cutting the military canal twenty yards wide across Romney -Marsh. Beacons were placed on the tops of the highest hills, to light -up, and alarm the country in case of a sudden descent of the enemy. -Fortunately however the hostile movements of the Austrians obliged -Napoleon to break up his camp at Boulogne, and march to oppose them. -The latter part of this year produced extraordinary events; Napoleon -was again overwhelming the continent by his military achievements, and -Nelson in a like manner, by his naval exploits, was clearing all before -him. These great commanders seemed striving to outvie each other on -their peculiar elements, and each won a great battle[6], and within a -few months of each other. - -During the autumn, the regiment to which I belonged marched to -Chelmsford in Essex, and was stationed there a few weeks with other -corps, previously to our proceeding to Norman Cross for the purpose -of guarding some thousands of unhappy Frenchmen, cooped up at that -place, and clothed in yellow (the prison dress) to expiate their -revolutionary sins by many years' captivity and exile in a loathsome -prison, cut off from their relatives and friends. - -Their necessities forced them to exert their ingenuity in making -various curious toys, which they disposed of at a very low rate to -enable them to procure a few comforts, to alleviate their extreme -wretchedness, which was beyond description; for want of clothes many -of them suffered every privation rather than be clad in a conspicuous -and humiliating colour; others were in rags and almost in a state of -nudity, having lost their all by gambling; and to so great an extent -did the vice grow, that many would even stake their rations, and every -trifle given to them by strangers, until, by their half famished looks, -they bore a resemblance to skeletons. - -The exterior of the prison was enclosed by strong wooden railings, as -well as the four interior quadrangles, in the centre of which stood a -circular block house bristled with three pounders on swivels, their -muzzles peeping out of square apertures (similar to the ports of a -ship) to play on the prisoners in case of their becoming refractory. -Generals Boyer and Rochambeau were, for some reason or other, in close -confinement; one of them played and sang most delightfully on the guitar. - -The barracks stood about east and west, occupied by two regiments, with -two field pieces always placed at the gates, in readiness to fire if -necessary. The high north road ran within about two hundred yards of -the west barrack. A troop of the 7th light dragoons[7] were quartered -near at hand to pursue those Frenchmen who might attempt to effect -their escape, which many accomplished by the utmost danger, and the -most unaccountable perseverance; sometimes by working under ground for -months, to excavate a way out of prison. One man, absolutely wrapped -in straw bands, dropped himself into a night cart, (which he was aware -would be drawn away that night) and he was pitched out with the soil at -the usual place on the slope of a hill; but, in his haste to extricate -himself, he was discovered, and brought back half suffocated. - -Many of the poor prisoners gave lessons in fencing; and while I was -once displaying the proficiency I had made in that art to an amateur -by placing him in a defensive position to ward off my rapid attack, he -unfortunately guided the point of my cane up his own nostrils which -caused him forthwith to ungrasp his sword, and apply both hands to -the wounded part. Being much alarmed at the accident, I stood at -a respectful distance from my friend, until the pain had subsided; -fearing that, under such torment, he might take signal vengeance on my -slender frame. - -The winter passed heavily enough at this dull spot, and without doubt -the best hour of the day was that when the drum struck up the "Roast -Beef of old England," the certain announcement of a well supplied -board, covered with massive plate, and groaning under the weight of the -choicest viands the season afforded. - -Early in the spring the long wished for _route_ arrived for Hull in -Yorkshire. When we were on the march through Lincolnshire, a sudden -thunder storm came on, accompanied by heavy rain, and we saw a poor -girl at work in an adjoining field; but, before she was able to gain a -place of shelter from the rain, a flash of lightning struck her on the -forehead and killed her on the spot. Her lifeless body was conveyed to -the nearest town, to her unhappy relatives. After the expiration of -a few days we arrived at Barton, where we crossed the Humber (seven -miles down the river) in the regular passage-boats to the place of -our destination, having experienced the usual comforts of a march in -England: such as good breakfasts, dinners, and a comfortable feather -bed every night. - -Soon after our arrival a detachment was ordered to take charge of some -batteries on the right bank of the Humber in Lincolnshire, no great -distance from Grimsby; and, for the good of my morals, I was selected -for that duty, it being considered by excellent judges that so populous -a town as Hull afforded too many temptations for one so young as -myself. Every movement to me was a source of pleasure; already my new -abode was anticipated, and some highly romantic spot pictured to my -imagination. A fancied governor too, surrounded by the inhabitants of -the adjacent country looking up with that respect so flattering to one -placed in so responsible a situation! - -The hour of my departure was hailed with joy, and I eagerly jumped on -board a small packet procured for the transport of myself and party. -The sails being spread out, I felt a secret wish that my brother and -another officer had not been on board, so that I might have entered -into my important avocations without further delay. We had glided a -short way on our course, when the wind changed, and became adverse, -and, after a few tacks, I lost my vivacity, my countenance turned -pale, and my brother remarked that I was sea-sick. "How can that be," -faintly replied I, "when we are only in a river;" although it must be -acknowledged that, owing to its proximity to the sea, the water was -sufficiently agitated to cause some derangement in the stomach of a -landsman. - -At the expiration of a few hours' tossing, we anchored off a solitary -habitation, three sides of which were encompassed by a dreary marsh of -considerable extent, intersected with dykes. On landing, my companions -surveyed the surrounding prospect, casting significant looks towards -each other; and a half stifled laugh followed at my dejected amazement, -as I contemplated the prospect before me, wondering how the coming six -months were to be employed, or myself to be amused, in this swamp, -whitened by innumerable flocks of sea gulls. On entering the boat house -I sat down with little appetite to partake of some eggs and bacon, that -being the best fare to be procured. My companions made a hearty meal, -and, having swallowed a couple of tumblers of brandy and water, took -their departure with a fair wind, leaving me to make the best of my -way, over a pathless waste, in the direction of a small wooden building -rearing its chimnies just above an earth entrenchment decorated by four -heavy cannons mounted _en barbette_, and a bare pole in the centre by -way of a flag staff. The soldiers preceding me were a short way in -front. In vain I strained my eyes in search of a second habitation, -to cheer this monotonous scene; night was fast drawing to a close, and -the disagreeable Humber and its muddy banks disappearing from my view, -amidst a drizzling rain. - -On entering the room allotted for my use, I seated myself on my baggage -in no very cheerful mood, waiting the delivery of coals and candles, -while my servant was busily employed mopping the floor. In the morning -the men were placed at the guns, armed with rammers and handspikes, to -learn to load, elevate, and traverse, so as to fire in case any French -ships might enter the river, to disturb the whalers anchored off Hull. - -A printed board of orders nailed to the wall at the extremity of my -room shewed me the necessity of visiting another battery under my -charge (at stated periods) distant six miles up the river. I was -also informed that I had a horse at my service; but, when the animal -was brought forward, all hopes of a ride vanished, he proving lame -of a leg, very old, and his coat sticking up like the bristles of a -porcupine. - -My instructions also specified that every Sunday the detachment was to -attend divine service, at a church situated inland on a gentle rise, -shrouded by trees, about two miles from the battery, which was to be -left in charge of a corporal's guard. - -The sixth day happened to be the sabbath; the weather was propitious. -I therefore decorated myself in hopes of getting a glimpse of some -flowing drapery at the distant hamlet. On our arrival the bell -was tolling, and a few infirm individuals were creeping into the -old church. As the service had not begun, I squatted myself on a -hay-cock—for the grass of this church yard was turned to account, and, -as far as I could judge, was as fine a crop as any around. - -At length the bell ceased to reverberate, and I was about to enter -the decayed doors of the church, when on raising my eyes I beheld a -young lady of lovely face and form, stationary, with one foot placed -on the top of the style (leading into the church-yard) and with her -eyes apparently fixed in the direction of where I stood. She evinced an -animation, which I shall long remember; for my heart began to beat with -the most joyful anticipations. She passed close to me, while I remained -fixed, and gazing on her with transported admiration. I soon followed, -and was placed in a pew exactly opposite to her. Her raven tresses hung -carelessly from under a little blue silk hat. Her cheeks vied with the -roses, and the lustre of her sparkling black eyes pierced the inmost -recesses of my beating heart. Before the service was concluded, we were -both holding down our heads laughing; and the only excuse for such -indecorous conduct, (if any can be offered), was our youth—for she was -only sixteen, and I was half a year younger. - -Two days after, I wandered towards the village; the peasants had gone -forth to their daily labour. On looking about, I could see but one -house likely to contain the object of my secret regard. It was a large -old building encompassed by an extensive field in the shape of a park. -However, I fancied this was not her dwelling, as she had entered the -church yard from quite a contrary direction. Having wandered some -time without encountering a single person of whom I could make any -inquiries, I at last felt convinced that the fair object of my search -had come from a distant village, and that I should not again behold her -fascinating smiles. - -In retracing my steps from thence, the marsh became doubly odious to my -sight; however, on the following Sunday, I placed myself on the same -spot in the church yard, with my eyes steadfastly fixed on the style. -The bell ceased to toll, the church doors closed, the service had -begun, but my _belle_ did not appear; and I now in real earnest began -to consider myself a perfect exile, not having exchanged a syllable -with any one save my servant (or when giving some trifling orders) for -thirteen days. The next morning I started on foot to visit the other -fort (mounting two guns, with a garrison of one serjeant, a gunner, and -fourteen men,) to be assured that the lame horse had safely carried -their provisions, and to see that the defences had not been washed away -during the last spring tide. After a toilsome walk of no inconsiderable -distance, along a dyke, overrun with long grass nearly up to my middle, -I returned, well tired, and perfectly cooled in my governorship. - -The next day I made towards the hamlet, being determined to summon up -resolution, and make inquiries at some cottage, or to endeavour to find -out from whence came the sole object of my thoughts. On my accosting an -old woman, who very civilly answered all my inquiries, she communicated -that the young lady was a gentleman farmer's daughter; expatiating -upon her beauty and amiability, and concluded by remarking, that she -supposed by this time she must have returned to school beyond Lincoln, -as she had not seen her for some days. She then informed me that, when -at home, the young lady resided in the large mansion already described. -Having now gained the long wished information, I wandered towards the -spot, and espied a figure clad in white standing at the door of a -cottage, at no great distance from the large house. - -I instantly made my way across the field, full of doubts and fears, -and when, within a short distance, I could distinguish the same -figure, and the charming countenance I was in quest of,—I hesitated, -being fearful that the object of my search might vanish. At length -with a palpitating heart, and extremely confused, I found myself -opposite the _brunette_. I attempted to speak, but, alas! my words -were unintelligible; she smiled, and I was rooted to the spot,—she -retreated backwards; her eyes, acting like load stars, drew me forward. -I stumbled over the doorsill, and found myself in a small room in the -interior of the cottage. At the extremity of it sat an ancient dame -at her spinning wheel, who, looking through her spectacles at me, -regarded so small a figure, in a rich scarlet uniform, with a degree of -good-natured surprise. - -Some moments elapsed before any one of this trio broke silence. My -_incognita_ blushed and cast the kindest regards towards her old nurse, -who looked alternately towards us for some explanation; but, finding -little chance of any from our confusion, she broke the awkward silence -by requesting to know my pleasure? In reply, I stammered out, that I -had lost my way; she instantly arose, and offered the assistance of her -son, to conduct me into the right road; but my _chère amie_ now found -her voice, and stopped her short, by offering her services to point -out the way for me herself; and, almost in the same breath, asked me -if I did not feel considerably fatigued after so long a walk? Then, -entering into conversation, the hours flew away imperceptibly, until -the old dame reminded her of her unusually long absence from home, -which might induce her mamma to send some one in search of her; we -thereupon parted seemingly equally pleased with each other, and with -an agreement to continue our acquaintance. To my eyes the marsh now no -longer presented a dreary waste; my heart was as light as a feather; I -bounded over planks and ditches, for hedges there were none. Even the -odious twenty-four pounders I could have turned to use, by loading them -up to the muzzles with grape shot, against all pirates or rivals; and -I do verily believe that had it not been for the presence of an old -steady gunner, I should really have fired a salute on the occasion. - -I ordered tea to be prepared, and my fire made up. I then opened a -box filled with books that day forwarded to me from Hull with a note -from my brother, saying, that according to my wishes he had sent some -novels, and also a few volumes of the _Roman History_, with his strict -injunctions not to neglect the perusal of the latter in particular. - -The first book I extracted was a deep romance; and the pages were -eagerly devoured with all those transports so natural to youthful -minds. It was soon conveyed for the perusal of my _chère amie_; for in -truth the _Roman History_ had never entered my head. - -A fresh supply being soon necessary, the box was returned, and the -history kept as a reserve, and, like many other reserves, it was never -brought into action. After a short acquaintance, my little _belle_ -intimated to me, that I might expect an invitation when her papa (who -abominated the red coats, great and small) should make his annual -excursion. It struck me that a dark lantern might be of great utility -during such parties as I might chance to attend. I therefore begged of -my brother that one might be purchased for me, which was accordingly -done, although such a request somewhat excited his surprise; however, -on reflection, the extensive prospect he had previously surveyed the -day he conducted me to my lonely abode, soon convinced him that a -nightly tramp would be out of the question, and he set my request down -to the effect of the romances I had recently perused. At length the -time of papa's departure was announced to me, with an invitation from -mamma to take tea with her: and, on the appointed night, having secured -my barrack room door, I walked a short distance, and turned my dark -lantern, to enable me to explore my way over a path intersected by -numerous ditches. - -On my arrival near the gate at the end of an enclosure, leading to the -house, the rays of my lantern fell on a figure all in white. I made a -sudden stop, and opened my eyes to their full extent, to satisfy myself -what so strange an appearance could be, so late, and at so lonely a -spot; for various confused ideas crossed my mind, my fancy was worked -up to the highest state of excitement, and a cold chill ran through -my veins,—when suddenly the ground gave way, and I was immersed -above my middle in water in a ditch, the edge of which had given way. -During my alarm, while I was endeavouring to extricate myself from my -awkward situation, the figure moved towards me and I scrambled out of -the ditch, covered with duck weed. As a last resort I summoned up my -remaining courage, and demanded in a loud voice, or rather screech, -"What are you?" when a plaintive voice answered, "It is I." and the -speaker instantly vanished. - -After looking cautiously around, in apprehension of making another -false step and getting a second ducking, I explored my way with -considerable difficulty to the house, absolutely following the -direction of the supposed phantom. There I found my new friend waiting -for me at the door much alarmed, who informed me she had seen the -light of my lantern gradually approaching, and had ventured to meet me; -but the hearing the souse, and such a strange salute in total darkness, -had so terrified her, that a hasty flight had been the consequence. - -Her mamma had waited tea some time, and on entering the room I -perceived that she was in full dress and highly rouged; I was -introduced to her, wet through, and covered with a green weed, like -some sea monster. She laughed immoderately. What was to be done? A -change was necessary: the husband's clothes would not do. A huge -country girl being called in, while divesting me of my coat, suggested -that I should be attired in one of her young lady's dresses. This -proposal afforded mamma much diversion, who agreed to the proposal, -and I was led into the kitchen, to a rousing wood fire, blazing on the -hearth, under a spacious chimney. Here I was unceremoniously stripped -by the maid, who appropriated so much time to the adjustment of my -female attire, that her _jeune maîtresse_ demanded the reason of my -person being kept so long in custody by this Amazonian wench. My -toilette being arranged, tea and coffee were served up, and the time -passed in the most agreeable conversation. The night had far advanced, -when an unexpected rapping was heard, with the butt end of a riding -whip, heavily applied to the oaken doors, while a hoarse voice demanded -admittance in the well known key of papa: but to my ears the notes were -like the roaring of a lion. All lights were instantly extinguished, and -the back door was thrown open, out of which I was led into a poultry -yard, and from thence into a loft, where, seating myself on a truss -of hay, I waited in much suspense, while the heavy bars were removed -from the gate of the farm yard, to admit the squire and his horse. -His gruff voice soon died away; the gates were again closed and all -became quiet. Shortly afterwards a rustling noise and gentle footsteps -struck on my ear, when my _belle_ again made her appearance accompanied -by the before mentioned Amazonian _fille de chambre_, with my dried -_paraphernalia_ under her arm. - -Meanwhile mamma was left to conduct her bloated spouse grunting to -bed, quite overcome, after his devotions to Bacchus and the malt tub. -Soon after I had assumed the attire of my own sex, the crowing of the -feathered tribe announced the time for my departure, when, bidding -tender adieus, I rapidly stole across the meadow, and just before the -sun arose, I found myself once more within my camp bed—_minus_ my dark -lantern. - -I often bended my steps during these May days towards the peaceful -hamlet far removed from any neighbouring village, from whence a green -sod, hedged on each side, was the sole outlet or vestige of a road -winding into the interior, through a rich pasturage country; it was in -these rural shades, and unbeaten tracks, that my blooming companion -and I rambled at large, and, when fatigued, her old nurse would place -before us her best China service, and seem to participate in our -happiness. The summer months flew away, and my indescribable departure -was announced. I presented the hospitable old dame with a new pair of -spectacles, and she wiped her eyes. The Yorkshire-men buckled on their -knapsacks, the wind was fair, the bark cut through the water, the old -church vanished from my sight, and I again landed at the busy and -trafficing town of Hull. - -Here the merchants entertained the military with turtle, and such -feasts as their rapidly accumulated wealth enabled them to spread out -in gorgeous abundance. The card parties were crowded to excess, and -very high stakes played for; more particularly as many of the officers -were possessed of large landed property, and also displayed most -splendid equipages. - -The venerable Earl Fitzwilliam, who was the Colonel of the regiment, -was there, and when I was introduced to him, he asked me whether I -did not find the colours very heavy in my hands? My face instantly -coloured up; the fact was, I had been blown down, colours and all, -while at a field day at Ashford in Kent. The amiable nobleman, with his -characteristic kindness, took care that I should see my name in the -next gazette as a Lieutenant. - -After a very short stay at Hull, we were ordered to Whitby, Burlington, -and Scarboro', situated on the sea coast. I had the good fortune to -march to the latter town, with which I was much struck on entering. -It is compact, and situated in a valley, with the fine old castle -rising abruptly and commanding a bird's eye view of the town, and the -beautiful and extensive sands, which become so hard, that at low water -horse racing used to take place, and with great safety, as there is -hardly a pebble to be seen. - -This was a grand place of resort, where the healthy dames and their -daughters from the North, came to sip the spa, to flounder in the sea, -to see and be seen, and to listen to the mild sayings of strangers from -the south, while hurrying down fifty couple at Donna's rooms, with -rosy cheeks, and hair somewhat out of curl. One whole year passed at -this place in a continual round of amusements, such as balls, parties, -picnic excursions, gay promenades, and horse-racing. The band was -magnificently attired in green and gold; in fact, Earl Fitzwilliam gave -up the whole or the greater part of his pay for the benefit of the -regiment.—The volunteering into the line continued from time to time; -the greater portion of the men, being of large stature, entered the -foot guards, the artillery, and marines. - -The _route_ at length arrived; and on the morning of our departure the -band struck up, the bass drum beating the marching time, a signal for -windows to be hastily thrown open by many fair ladies _en déshabille_, -waving their white handkerchiefs and delicate hands, until a wind of -the road concealed them from our admiration. The sun shone brightly, -and, as we cast a lingering look behind, the venerable white turrets of -the castle and the sparkling blue sea foaming at its base receded from -our view. We had proceeded about ten miles over the bare wold, when, -our appetites becoming rather keen from the sea breezes, we began to -cast our longing eyes towards a small sequestered village, surrounded -by stone walls, and a few scattered trees, which proved a welcome -sight. On entering, we drew up opposite a small rustic inn, for the -purpose of taking breakfast:—the chubby cherry-cheeked maids flocked -around us, and became so elated at the sounds of the music, and at the -sight of the red coats, that in their hurry to lay before us such -provisions as the place afforded, they pushed and jostled their rustic -swains out of their way, who, while resting on their pitchforks looked -uneasy, as if doubting for the first time in their lives the true -constancy of their sweethearts. - -After partaking of a most excellent breakfast, we resumed our road, -and at the expiration of three days again entered Hull, when we soon -received an order to proceed to Bristol; we passed through Beverley to -Hull, then to Doncaster, Birmingham, Derby, Litchfield, Gloucester, and -Worcester, besides many towns of smaller note interspersed through this -highly cultivated country. Having accomplished a march of three hundred -miles, we reached Bristol. While passing through a town, an old woman -perceived the officer of the light company with a knapsack on his back: -she hobbled towards him, and addressed him by the familiar appellation -of "Sergeant;" he answered with a smile, "My good old lady, serjeants -do not carry knapsacks in this regiment," at the same time casting a -glance towards a few of that rank who had left theirs on the baggage -waggons:—the officer loaded himself in this way for the comfort of -a speedy change, on the march during wet weather. A number of French -prisoners were confined at Stapleton prison, about five miles from -Bristol. This duty we found unpleasant, having to tramp over a dirty -road in the winter, in white kerseymere breeches, for the purpose of -mounting guard. A most fatal affray happened here betwixt four French -prisoners, owing to a dispute which arose out of a trifling gambling -transaction. The two principals first engaged, having split a scissars -into two parts and tied the points to the end of canes, with which they -fought, one was soon killed, the seconds then engaged, when another -fell mortally wounded; in fact, both the friends on one side fell. - -We frequently visited the village of Clifton within a mile of Bristol. -It is beautifully situated, overlooking the river Avon, which -romantically winds at the base of steep declivities, decorated with -overhanging shrubs.—The promenades and balls were very fashionably -attended, and it was surprising to observe the superiority of manners, -costume, and dancing, compared with those of the company attending the -assemblies at Bristol. - -Early in the summer of 1808, we again moved, and passed through the -counties of Somerset and Devon to Plymouth, there to do duty over the -arsenals and more French prisoners. - -I had now reached my seventeenth year. One evening while rambling -about, I accidentally met an officer, and entered into conversation -with him, when I was not a little surprised at his making use of my -elder brother's name, in no very complimentary strain, and, as I was -aware that such sentiments could not be used unintentionally by a man -of the world, I made a suitable retort, and left him. On reaching my -brother's barrack room which was adjacent to mine, I found him poring -over a volume of Shakspeare, with his usual _theatrical_ delight, and, -not wishing to disturb his transporting meditations, I bade him good -night and retired to my bed, having given my servant directions to call -me the next morning early, which being duly executed, I sent a friend -with a message to the officer already alluded to, which he instantly -accepted; but, as the regiment was under arms much earlier than usual, -to fire ball cartridge at a target, it was agreed that we should manage -to get leave with our seconds, and fall out one at a time, so as not to -create any suspicion of our intentions. - -Our uniforms having been thrown aside, four of us proceeded some -distance before we could find a spot to suit our purpose. The usual -distance being measured, we tossed up for sides. I lost, and stood with -my face towards the sun, as no other level spot could be found at hand. -Having taken our ground, the usual distance (by word), we both fired -without effect: the pistols being re-loaded, a second discharge was -about to take place, when my adversary addressed me by my Christian -name, and said he wished the affair adjusted, so that all that had -passed between us should be forgotten, and that we might be the same -good friends as heretofore,—the seconds then interfered, and all was -amicably adjusted[8]. - -A general order appeared about this period, exploding hair-powder and -tails throughout the army. But, previously to its coming out, a most -ludicrous occurrence happened. An officer who possessed a very good -figure and a fine head of hair, had shown a great antipathy against -wearing powder, so much so, that it was only by a repetition of orders, -that he could be induced to use the puff, and even then it was so -sparingly put on his crown, as to be scarcely visible. One morning as -usual he appeared on the parade, with his head unwhitened; the captain -of his company not a little roused, at having so frequently reminded -him of his neglect of duty, again remarked that he was without powder; -when he carelessly answered, that he supposed a puff of wind must -have blown it out; which so incensed the captain that he forthwith -reported the circumstance. The whole of the officers being assembled -to the front, the culprit patiently heard the accusation against -him, and as coolly received the slight reprimand from the commanding -officer, who had no sooner finished what he had to say than the accused -officer fixed his eyes steadily on his captain, and, without uttering -a syllable lifted his cap slowly from his head at arm's length, -showing a head as white as snow, while his accuser stood petrified and -confounded, to the no small amusement of the surprised circle who burst -into an unrestrained laugh, joined in by the senior officers. The fact -was, that the rear of the company was close to the soldiers' barrack, -and, while the captain was in the act of reporting his junior officer, -the latter had run into one of the men's rooms, seized a flour tub -(used by the soldiers) and, with its contents, had covered his head, -leaving the side locks untouched as before. - -About this time, the expedition to Portugal put into Plymouth, and as -there appeared some probability of an opening for the British army on -terra firma, I felt an anxiety to enter the line. A commission was -promised me in a light infantry regiment, which I soon after obtained; -at this time Plymouth was crowded by Portuguese officers, that had fled -from their native country with the royal family of Portugal, who had -departed for the _New World_. Portugal being cleared of the _French_ -and _Spanish invaders_, the British entered Spain to threaten the right -flank of the French army under Napoleon, in the depth of winter, which -ended by Sir John Moore being killed, and the whole of the English army -re-embarking at Corunna. The different regiments landed in England in -the most deplorable condition, having been overtaken by a tempest, -which had scattered them over the face of the waters. - -The inhabitants of Plymouth received these troops with open arms, and -threw wide their doors for the benefit of the suffering officers; they -watched over their sick beds in the most assiduous manner, and supplied -them gratis with every comfort; such as shirts and shoes, and crowned -all this magnanimous hospitality, by advancing money to many of the -convalescent officers to enable them to reach their far distant homes, -in England, Ireland, and Scotland. But how different was the treatment -of the army (who had freed Portugal) elsewhere! A young and handsome -officer had landed at another port in a wretched state, bare-footed, -his feet tormented with gravel, suffering from a fever, and supporting -himself against a wall: then, creeping along in an exhausted state, he -was unnoticed by the passers by, until a sailor said, "Why, soldier -officer, you are aground, come lay hold of my arm: I will take care of -you." - -In March[9] 1809, I obtained my ensigncy in the line, and proceeded to -Colchester to join the second battalion of the 43rd light infantry. -When an officer entered this corps it was an invariable custom to -send him to drill with a squad, composed of peasants from the plough -tail, or other raw recruits, first learning the facings, marching, -and companies' evolutions. That being completed, the officer put -on cross belts and pouch, and learned the firelock exercise; then -again he marched with the same: and when it was considered that the -whole were perfect, with, and without arms, they began to skirmish in -extended files, and last of all learned the duties of a sentry, and to -fire ball cartridge at a target. The officer after all this was not -considered clear of the adjutant, until he could put a company through -the evolutions by word of command, which he had already practised in -the ranks. It generally took him six months in summer at four times a -day (an hour at each period) to perfect him in all he had to learn. -The drill was never kept more than an hour under arms, when, to a -minute, the time beater rolled his drum, the only one, (light infantry -regiments used bugles) in the corps; and the recruits were instantly -dismissed. - -The orderly officer of each company made out the daily morning state -with his own hand. Subalterns inspected squads on parade: the company -was then formed and given over to the captain, who, with the rest of -the officers, never quitted their company to lounge about, so long as -the soldiers continued under arms. The corps paraded twice a week in -heavy marching order, and the mess was equally well conducted, in a -system of style and economy happily blended. - -[Footnote 1: The grenadier company was composed of more than one -hundred men, and only contained _eleven men_ so _short_ as five feet -eleven inches.] - -[Footnote 2: Their code of military law, their pay, provisions, arms -and accoutrements were the same as in the line; and they often marched -three or four hundred miles at a sweep! In summer they went into camp, -or did garrison duty; and each company possessed a _bat-horse_ with a -pack-saddle, to carry the _iron camp kettles_.] - -[Footnote 3: Now the rifle-brigade.] - -[Footnote 4: Sir John Moore offered commissions to Lieutenants Booth, -Temple, and myself of the York. The two former joined the 52nd; but, -as my brother fancied that I was too young and as I was not my own -master, I was obliged to submit to his decision. Lieut. O-Reilly also -entered the rifle-corps and was subsequently killed on the river Coa -in Portugal; and Lieut. Booth was killed at the storming of Badajoz in -Spain.] - -[Footnote 5: The pelisse was subsequently introduced, and a soldier -clad in (green tartan) the highland costume, carried a small standard. -The three light regiments increased to seven battalions during the war; -43rd _two_; 52nd _two_; rifles _three_.] - -[Footnote 6: Trafalgar and Austerlitz.] - -[Footnote 7: Now hussars.] - -[Footnote 8: My brother and the same officer had a dispute eight -months after this affair. They met; and at the first fire my brother -received his adversary's hall through the upper part of his thigh, but -eventually recovered.] - -[Footnote 9: In that month the first battalion marched from Colchester -to Harwich to embark for Portugal with the 52nd and the Rifle corps, -under Major General R. Craufurd, and joined the army in Spain the day -after the battle of Talavera de la Reyna, having made a forced march -in good order, in hopes of participating in that sanguinary battle, -where they found the remnant of those men who had been left sick or -wounded (in the battalion of detachments) in Portugal after Vimiera, -and who had been engaged at the passage of the Douro near Oporto, and -at Talavera. The 43rd had upwards of one hundred men killed in that -battle; and of officers, brigade Major Gardner killed, and Lieutenant -Brown wounded,—the latter now commanding the second battalion Rifle -brigade.] - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - Scene of embarkation for foreign service at Deal—A character—Force - and objects of the expedition—Arrival off Walcheren—Siege - and capture of Flushing—Disastrous sickness among the - troops—Evacuation of Walcheren, with the author's adventure on - the occasion—The return to England—Napoleon's situation at that - period. - - -In June 1809 we left Colchester with other corps, for the purpose of -embarkation; our route lay through Chelmsford, Gravesend, Maidstone, to -Shorncliff barracks (in Kent) placed on the summit of a hill extending -to the verge of the white cliffs overhanging the sea, and commanding a -clear view of the straits of Dover, and the opposite coast of France. - -On the 16th of July we marched through Dover to Deal, where innumerable -boats lined the shore for the purpose of conveying troops to the -various ships anchored in the Downs for their reception. Large bodies -of soldiers were pouring into the town by all the roads to join the -vast armament about to rendez-vous at this point. Hurrying into the -boats, the hardy sailors pulled away: the beach and the bay were -covered with thousands of soldiers, intermixed with the fair daughters -of Albion, who had come from afar to witness this brilliant spectacle. - -The army was in a fine state of discipline, and filled with enthusiasm, -while the ensigns of many naval victories floated in the breeze from -the mast heads of those men of war, that had for years swept the ocean, -opened the whole commerce of the world to this island, and filled the -coffers of England with almost inexhaustible resources. - -We had no sooner arrived on board the York seventy four, commanded by -Captain Barton, than the usual bustle prevailed on such occasions, -which had in some measure subsided, when a large fat man in a small -boat was seen making towards the ship, dressed in light fawn-coloured -breeches, white cotton stockings and shoes, with a loose coat, -evidently of provincial cut. Coming alongside, he eagerly demanded -the number of the regiment on board, which proved to be the identical -one he was in search of; he then mounted the side of the ship with -breathless exertion, and attempted to bustle through the crowd of -soldiers huddled together. However, the butt ends of some firelocks -falling heavily near his toes, formed a sufficient hint to arrest -his progress, and he was much confounded at finding himself jostled -amongst such a concourse of troops for the first time in his life. -After waiting some time with intense anxiety, he at length succeeded -in clearing the way, crying out in accents of one whose patience had -been quite exhausted by hopelessness of redress, "Will any man in this -ship have the goodness to point out the Paymaster's berth? for really, -gentlemen, I have striven in vain to obtain an answer of the many -persons whom I have already addressed." A voice from the crowd replied, -"Why, there is no such thing,"—at which unwelcome intelligence the -countenance of the applicant underwent a painful transition from hope -to despair. - -While at anchor in the Downs, the wind blew sufficiently strong to -cause the unpleasant motion of the ship which produces sea sickness, -and, being one of the junior officers, I was not so fortunate as the -Paymaster, who had secured a berth, for I wandered for three days into -different quarters of the ship, in a state unnecessary to describe -to those who have experienced the heaving of a ship at anchor. A -midshipman about my own age kindly offered to provide me with such -accommodation as the cock-pit afforded, which offer I thankfully -accepted, in hopes of at least getting into a quiet uninterrupted -corner. I had scarcely entered the hammock hung for my reception, when -I was assailed by quantities of cock chafers crawling over my face, and -under the blankets, (the ship having just returned from a cruise from -the West Indies.) - -The prodigious armament consisted of thirty-five ships of the line; -two of fifty guns, three of forty-four guns; and one hundred and -ninety-seven sloops, bombs, and other armed small craft,—with an -army of thirty-nine thousand, two hundred and nineteen men, including -officers, all assembled in the Downs on the 27th of July, 1809. The -whole were under the command of Rear-Adm. Sir R. Strachan and Gen. -the Earl of Chatham, in conjunction. These Commanders sailed in the -Venerable at daylight, on the 28th of July, and arrived in the East -Kapelle roads, off the island of Walcheren on that evening; but, owing -to the boisterous state of the weather, and contrary winds, a landing -could not be effected on the Domburg beach. The other two divisions -of the fleet followed in succession from the Downs. The object of the -expedition was, to capture or destroy the enemy's ships, building at -Antwerp and Flushing, or afloat in the Scheldt; also the destruction -of the arsenals and dock-yards at Antwerp, Ternuese, and Flushing; to -reduce the island of Walcheren, and render, if possible, the Scheldt no -longer navigable for ships of war; with directions to the commanders, -should they not be able to effect all these objects, that after the -reduction of Walcheren, (which was to be kept possession of, and a -force left for its protection,) the remainder of the troops were to be -re-embarked, and to return to England. - -The island of Walcheren is thirty-four miles in circumference, -including St. Jootsland, and is situated between the mouths of the East -and West Scheldt, inclosed by Cadzand on the south, South Beveland -and Wolfertsdyck on the east, and North Beveland on the north east. -Our division of the fleet sailed from the Downs at half-past ten -o'clock A. M. on the 30th, and came to anchor the next afternoon, in -the East-Kapelle roads off Walcheren, when we observed the mortar and -gun-vessels keeping up a heavy fire on the small town of Ter Veere, -whilst a small body of English troops were lying behind the sand-hills, -keeping watch on the road towards Middelburg, the capital of the -island. Part of the fleet had already entered the Veere Gat, and had -landed a large force, with three divisions of sailors (three hundred) -the day before, at half-past four in the afternoon, on the Bree-sand, -a little more than a mile west of Fort de Haak, the fire of which had -been previously silenced by the gun-boats and mortars. The peaceable -inhabitants sent a deputation from Middelburg to the head-quarters; -the army advanced the next day, the 1st of August, and took possession -of that place, drove the enemy into Flushing, and took from them some -field-pieces. - -Gen. Sir John Hope landed his divisions in South Beveland the same day, -and took possession of Ter Goes, the capital of the island, which is -thirty-five miles long. The French fleet had retired beyond the chain -which was drawn across the Scheldt near Fort Lillo. On the 3d, a few -vessels were observed leaving Flushing; some boats were sent in chase; -the weather was fine, the wind S.S.W., and the flood tide nearly down, -which gave every hope of their effecting a safe return. The Raven -sloop of war went to their protection, when the enemy's vessels again -retreated into Flushing. The wind suddenly flew west in a squall, first -blowing hard and then baffling. The boats got safe off, but the fire -continued on the sloop for four hours without intermission, round shot -passing through her from the Breskens batteries, and grape dropping on -board from the ramparts of Flushing. She suffered severely in the hull, -masts, and rigging, and had two guns dismounted, the top-mast shot away -above the lower caps, the main-mast, bowsprit, and main-boom, rendered -unserviceable, the sails and rigging completely cut in pieces, and her -Commander, Capt. Hanchett, and eight men, wounded. Night coming on, -she grounded on the Ellboog; at daybreak two brigs were sent to her -assistance, and at seven she floated. - -The enemy were very apprehensive lest our army should make an attempt -to pass the East Scheldt, near Zandvliet, opposite fort Bathz, which -they attacked on the 5th with twenty-eight gun-boats, but were driven -off by the batteries. The weather continued so bad until the 7th, -the wind blowing S.W. and S.S.W., that the sea blockade of Flushing -could not be accomplished, and the enemy continued to convey their -wounded soldiers to Cadzand, and also threw one thousand men across -the Scheldt, one mile and three-quarters, to reinforce the town. At -half-past five o'clock in the evening of the 7th the enemy made a -sortie on the right of the line from Flushing, but were repulsed and -pushed back at the point of the bayonet. While all these things were -going on, our regiment had been removed from the line-of-battle ship -into small craft, and anchored in the Sloe passage, between Walcheren -and South Beveland. On the morning of the 9th, ours, the light brigade, -composed of the second battalions of the 43rd, 52nd, and the Rifle -corps, part of Earl Rosslyn's division (two thousand and twenty-two -men) were under the command of Major Gen. Stewart. He considered, -from the nature of the service we were likely to be employed on, and -probably cut off from our baggage by dykes and rivers, that small black -knapsacks, with brown straps, would prove of essential service to the -officers: for these we had paid half-a-guinea each, previously to our -leaving England. However, subsequently, as he expected us to carry -them at brigade field-days, some little discussion arose on that head, -behind a wind-mill. - -A day's salt pork and biscuit being served out, and all the officers -with their knapsacks strapped on their backs, we began our march; -the day was extremely sultry, without a breath of air; the road was -perfectly flat, as well as the whole face of the country, which was -intersected with ditches, covered with a thick ooze or vegetable -substance, and high dykes rising on each side of the way. The Paymaster -had joined the column, as the place of the greatest security. As -guns from the gun-boats were sounding at intervals, in front and -rear, we persuaded him that it was probable we might become engaged -without any previous warning, by a front, flank, or rear attack, which -information, added to the heat of the atmosphere, put him into such -a state of perspiration, that when we halted, a liquid stream of hot -water poured from his forehead, such as I have never before, nor since -beheld; added to which, his tailor had fitted his corpulent sides to a -nicety, although equal praise could not be bestowed on his hatter, who -had manufactured his cap so large, that it fell over his face like an -extinguisher, and the worst of it was, both his hands were occupied; -in his right he held his wig and drenched pocket-handkerchief, while -his left was in momentary request to disentangle his sabre from betwixt -his legs. "Well," said he, with a good-tempered smile, "if ever I -knew any thing like this!" and, notwithstanding his uncomfortable -plight, he cracked his jokes, and proved himself a man of more ready -wit, and possessing a greater fund of anecdote and humorous stories, -than any one I ever met with, so that he became a general favourite -throughout the regiment: but such a figure in a light infantry -jacket! such skirts, with pockets large enough to have stowed away -half the striplings of the corps! When the brigade was put in motion, -he remained in the middle of the way, as they passed him right and -left, and waited for the light waggons carrying our baggage; then -stowing himself comfortably away in one of them, he was brought to our -cantonments perfectly sick of campaigning. - -As we passed along, we were much struck at the great cleanliness of -the cottages, and at the contented air of the well-dressed peasantry. -The females were decorated with silver or gold ornaments about their -persons, and many of them wore a plate of the same metal across their -foreheads. The little boys of five or six years old held pipes in their -mouths, smoking with all the gravity of men, and wore their hair long -behind, broad-brimmed hats, brown jackets, short breeches, shoes, and -silver buckles, precisely similar to the elders. We passed through -Ter-Goes, a fine old brick town, surrounded by earth ramparts and a wet -ditch; it opened its gates without making any resistance to Sir John -Hope's corps. - -Continuing our march half a league farther on, we arrived at the clean -village of Cloting, containing a good church, and a handsome house in -the centre of it, which was the residence of the Burgomaster; we took -up our quarters in the different houses, and the men in the spacious -handsome barns, painted green, such as may be seen near gentlemen's -houses in England. Five companies of our regiment were detached to -another village. The humble dwellings of the peasantry bore an air of -comfort, and the abundantly supplied dairies, paved with well washed -tiles, presented a freshness seldom exhibited among the poorer classes -of other countries.—A considerable flotilla proceeded to Bathz, -where they arrived on the 11th; the enemy attacked the fort with two -frigates, one bearing a Vice Admiral's flag, thirty brigs, eight -luggers, one schooner, and fourteen gun boats; at the expiration of a -smart firing, they were beaten off, leaving six gun boats aground, five -being destroyed, and one brought in. In the afternoon of the same day, -Capt. Lord W. Stuart, commanding the Lavinia and nine other frigates, -availed himself of a light breeze from the westward, (notwithstanding -the tide was against the proceeding,) sailed up the west Scheldt, and -passed the batteries between Cadzand and Flushing; the ships were under -the enemy's fire for nearly two hours, without any material accident, -with the exception of a shell striking the L'Aigle, and falling through -her decks into the bread-room, where it exploded: one man was killed -and four wounded, and her stern frame much shattered. The Amethyst got -aground after passing Flushing. - -On the 13th, the batteries before Flushing being completed, and some -frigates and bombs having taken their station, a fire was opened at -half past one P.M. from upwards of fifty pieces of heavy ordnance, -including mortars and howitzers, which was vigorously returned by the -enemy; an additional battery was finished during the night, of six -twenty-four-pounders, (worked by sailors,) and the whole continued -to play on the town; until late on the following day. At half-past -ten on the morning of the 14th, the following line of battle ships -(anchored in the Duerlo passage) got under weigh: the St. Domingo, -Blake, Repulse, Victorious, Denmark, Audacious, and Venerable,—and -ranged along the sea-front of the town, led in by Rear-Admiral Sir -R. Strachan; but before they had opened their fire, the wind came -more southerly, and the St. Domingo grounded inside the Dog-land; an -officer, not knowing her situation, passed inside of her, by which -means the Blake also grounded; the other ships were ordered to haul -off to anchor as at first intended. The Domingo was soon got off, -and the Blake became again afloat, and came to anchor with the rest -of the squadron; the ships continued to ply the enemy with a furious -cannonade until four in the afternoon, when the town presented a vast -conflagration, burning in all quarters. The firing having nearly -ceased from the ramparts, Gen. Monnet, the Governor was summoned -to surrender, but he having given an evasive answer, hostilities -recommenced and continued until two o'clock in the morning of the 15th, -when the enemy demanded a suspension of arms, and within an hour the -Governor surrendered the town, (when two detachments of the Royals -and 71st regiments took possession of its gates,) and the whole of -the garrison, prisoners of war, besides those already taken in the -different forts and islands of Walcheren, South Beveland, Shouwen, -Duivland, Brouwershaven, and Zierigkzee, with all the valuable stores -therein. The loss in killed, wounded, and missing of the British, during -the siege, was about seven hundred and twenty, including officers. - -From this moment offensive operations seemed at an end: we were -surrounded with abundance, our days were occupied in the sports of -the field, our evenings passed at each others' quarters in idle and -pleasant conversation, pay was issued almost to the day that it was -due. Provisions of all descriptions were offered for sale at a very -low rate: tea, sugar, and coffee, were not half the price of the same -in England; wines, brandy, hollands, and liqueurs, might be purchased -for a mere trifle; and fat fowls or ducks for tenpence the pair. In -this land of plenty we were lulled into a fatal security, for, about -the 20th, the soldiers fell ill, staggered, and dropped in the ranks, -seized by dreadful fevers[10], and with such rapidity did this malady -extend, that in fourteen days, twelve thousand and eighty six soldiers -were in hospital on board ship, or sent to England; the deaths were -numerous, and sometimes sudden; convalescence hardly ever secure; -the disorders ultimately destroying the constitution, and causing -eventually the destruction of thousands in far distant climes. - -The natives now became ill, and informed us that one-third of them -were confined to their beds every autumn until the frosty weather -set in, which checked the exhalations from the earth, and gave new -tone to their debilitated frames, and thereby stopped the progress -of the complaint. Independently of the records of the unhealthiness -of these islands, where every object depicts it in the most forcible -manner, the bottom of every canal that has communication with the sea -is thickly covered with an ooze, which, when the tide is out, emits a -most offensive effluvium; and every ditch that is filled with water, is -loaded with animal and vegetable substances. If persons living in these -islands from their infancy, who practise a cleanliness that cannot be -excelled, and live in good houses, cannot prevent the effects of the -climate, it may readily be supposed how much more a foreign army must -suffer. The inhabitants informed us, that in the preceding autumn, two -hundred French troops were quartered in the village, out of whom one -hundred and sixty had the fever, and seventy of them died. - -Our landing had excited a great sensation in the north of France; so -much so, that numerous corps of the national guards marched to the -succour of Antwerp, only garrisoned when we first made our descent on -the coast with three thousand men, besides the eight thousand sailors -on board the fleet, that had retired up the Scheldt. Many of the -national guards suffered from the climate, and shortly returned to -their families with ruined constitutions. - -The town of Flushing, after the siege, presented a deplorable -appearance, with many houses burnt down, and most of them unroofed, -and scarcely supplying sufficient covering for the sick soldiers, who -continued to increase so fast, that ten inhabitants to each regiment -were requested to assist as attendants in the hospitals; the medical -officers were extremely harrassed, numbers of them became incapable of -attending on their patients, being themselves seized by the same fatal -malady, so that, as the fever gained ground, the doctors diminished -in numbers. At one period, four hundred and ninety-eight soldiers -died in a fortnight in Walcheren, which place the Austrians were very -solicitous our troops should continue to occupy as long as any chance -remained for them against Napoleon, who was at this time in the very -heart of their empire. - -Early in September, while at dinner, a sudden order reached us to move -towards the coast, when we instantly packed up and reached the beach -in two hours, where the troops began their embarkation. The captain of -the company, with agitated looks, ran towards me, and told me that, in -the hurry of moving off, he had left the whole of his company's books -in the corner of the room we had occupied, and that the commanding -officer had most positively refused him permission to fetch them. Under -these circumstances, and at his urgent entreaties, and promises to have -a boat in waiting on my return, I undertook the unpleasant excursion, -and, rapidly retracing my steps, I re-entered the village at a quick -pace, in little more than an hour; it appeared quite tranquil, as if -no foreigners had ever been amongst them. One or two natives only were -looking from their windows. A sudden thought now struck me that I might -be seized and made prisoner, which caused me much uneasiness; but yet -to decamp without accomplishing my object, was sorely against the -grain with me. While assailed by such conjectures, I entered the door -of the house that we had previously occupied, which I found open, and -saw the contented inmates enjoying a comfortable meal, nor did they -evince the least surprise at my reappearance. Without uttering a word, -and passing into the inner apartment, I seized the books, (the dinner -was still untouched on the table exactly as we had left it,) and with -hasty strides repassed the room where the family were seated, making -a slight inclination of the head: they half rose at seeing me loaded; -but not a syllable was exchanged between us. Some of the inhabitants -had now come out of their houses, and regarded me with suspicious -looks: I feigned indifference; but no sooner cleared the village, -than I started almost at speed, and had made great progress, when I -espied at a distance the light waggons and fat hollow-backed horses, -with flowing manes and tails, returning from the beach at a trot; -and, being aware that the soldiers were not very ceremonious on these -occasions, I was apprehensive the drivers of these vehicles might be -disposed to treat me in the same manner, or probably take me back as a -hostage. I therefore concealed myself behind a bank until they should -have passed by. Night soon came on, but I could descry the lights in -the ships' tops, and, in my hurry to follow their direction, I took -the wrong road, which led me into a field where it ended. However, -with the hope that a short way farther would enable me to reach the -beach, I darted onwards, and found a broad ditch impeding my farther -progress. It was in vain I ran up and down in search of a narrow part; -in almost a fit of desperation, I hurled the books across, one after -the other, tried my footing, retired some paces, and, at a run, sprang -across it with the greatest exertion, while a momentary joy gleamed -over my countenance, on mounting a bank, to find myself at the water's -edge. The lights were still stationary, but not a boat to be seen. -Owing to my great exertions and haste in passing over fourteen miles -of ground, I was in a profuse perspiration, which was soon succeeded -by a cold shivering, such as I imagined was the disorder incidental to -this swampy country. I feared that I should be left to perish before I -could reach the ship; a heavy dew fell, and I was almost perishing with -cold, having no other covering than my light infantry jacket, sash, -and pantaloons, without drawers or a waistcoat of any sort. Frequently -I was forced to run up and down to keep my blood in circulation, -and my teeth from chattering. In this manner, alternately sitting, -running, or casting my eye towards the lights, which, at times, and -in the exuberance of my fancy, I thought were receding, I passed the -dreary hours of the night. At daybreak, some sailors pulling in shore, -discovered my flying pocket handkerchief, and came to my relief, and, -after a considerable pull, we found the regiment on board the Ganges. -Then, giving my last dollar to the sailors for grog, I mounted the -side of the ship, and descended into the ward-room, where I found -the officers scattered about, and lying on a main-sail, that had -been spread out for their accommodation. Delivering the books to the -owner, I was fully determined never again to volunteer such a Quixotic -excursion. The officer assured me that all his endeavours to procure a -boat had been unavailing. - -The next day two hundred sick soldiers and officers were removed on -board small craft to proceed to England, and, as I happened to be one -of those for detachment, we left the line-of-battle ship, went on board -a transport, and steered our course for the Downs, where we arrived in -two days, and cast anchor for forty-eight hours, then again got under -weigh, and buffeted about for four days more, between the Downs and -Harwich, where we landed our sick soldiers and officers. When we were -stepping on shore, a countryman, looking towards us, exclaimed, "There -goes the King's hard bargains." - -The evening we landed, a fine healthy-looking young serjeant brought -me the orderly-book,—and, on visiting the hospital at ten o'clock -the next morning, I heard he had been dead one hour. So much for the -Walcheren malady! In fact, the most fatal battle could hardly have made -such havock in our ranks. Thus, in the short space of seven months, -the English coast had been inundated with sick soldiers and scattered -regiments from the Land's-end to Yarmouth. Walcheren was finally -evacuated in the end of December. - -Napoleon had humbled his rivals, had ridden out the storm raised -against him, and repulsed all his enemies. Pope Pius the VIIth had -indeed thundered forth a spiritual excommunication against him and -his followers at the beginning of the Austrian campaign; but he had -unluckily fallen into the power of his temporal master, who, seated -in the saloon of the Palace of the Tuileries, was meditating new -conquests, and weaving silken cords for the Emperor of Austria's -daughter. - -[Footnote 10: The sailors on board ship did not suffer much from the -malady.] - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - Progress of distemper on the re-landing of the regiment in - England—Change of quarters—Amusements—Colchester—An - eventful water party—The author obtains leave to join the - detachment proceeding to Portugal—A Review—A tale of - dental dislocation—Embarkation at Spithead—Landing in - Portugal—Incidents of an evening—Amusements at Lisbon, and - departure from that city. - - -The regiment soon re-landed in England, and marched to Colchester, -where a vast number of the men died, of ours as well as all the other -corps, thereby keeping the clergy in constant requisition to repeat the -funeral service over the rudely-shaped coffins of the dead soldiers. -Nearly the whole of the corps to which I belonged were laid up with -ague and fever, to such a degree, that those able to walk and the few -fit for duty were removed to Sudbury, for the benefit of change of air. -This proved very beneficial and restored the strength of those who had -not been very badly affected with the malady. - -At the expiration of two months we were able to muster again about two -hundred, out of six, fit for duty. Those officers whose health was -sufficiently re-established frequented the balls at Bury St. Edmunds, -which were extremely well attended by the neighbouring families; added -to these, occasional jaunts and a few private parties made the time -pass pleasantly enough until we were ordered to Weeley Barracks, where -we spent a sombre winter, (with two other regiments) which passed -without any occurrence worth mentioning, except that of the garrison -being called out to fire a _feu de joie_ in celebration of George the -Third's having reigned over this country for fifty years. - -In the spring we shifted our quarters to Colchester, being perfectly -sickened of our rustic amusements of shooting larks, skating, or pacing -up and down a solitary barrack-square of great extent, and surrounded -by a rich grass country, without any thing worthy the appellation of a -village for a considerable distance. - -Soon afterwards myself and another officer went to Portsmouth to -receive volunteers. The officers of a regiment invited us to dine with -them at Gosport, and so plied us with peppered turkeys' legs, devilled -biscuits and port wine, that we were unable to beat a retreat until -two o'clock in the morning. On reaching the ferry, there was not a -boat to be seen; wherefore, from necessity, we were reduced to content -ourselves with a seat on some stone steps, and there to await the -rising sun, whose beams no sooner crimsoned the western hemisphere, -than we hailed the first morning ferry boat, and reached our lodging, -right glad to quaff a smoking cup of coffee in order to settle our -stomachs from the last night's debauch. In a few days we left the -rustic vicinity of Portsmouth, and reached the red-bricked town of -Colchester, where our time passed in such amusements as are usually -practised at a provincial quarter and are so well known to most of the -British army, who have had the honor of promenading up and down its -_pavé_. - -One day a water party was talked of, and no sooner proposed than put -into execution. A boat was procured and rowers selected—the rest of -the party being armed with fowling pieces for the destruction of gulls -and carrion crows, or such other birds as might chance to cross us -during our acquatic excursion on the river Colne. The boat being put -in motion, after an hour's hard pull, the river became considerably -wider, the tide was on the ebb, the weather propitious, and so much -way made, that we resolved to obtain a glimpse of the sea, which soon -being accomplished, we pulled in shore, made good our landing, and -selected the most rural spot to partake of those viands prepared for -the occasion, which, being spread out on nature's green carpet, were -speedily devoured by eight hungry young officers, and every bottle -of wine and brown stout emptied to the very dregs. The party, full -of hilarity, then returned to their slender bark; but great was our -surprise to find it high and dry, the tide nearly out, and only a -narrow stream remaining of the spacious Colne water we had quitted a -few hours before. A launch being necessary, our jackets and caps were -hurled into the boat, and, by the most strenuous exertions, it was -shoved through the mud, and again afloat; then rapidly plying our oars, -we made some progress, notwithstanding that the tide was still running -out; when at length the water entirely failed, leaving us aground, -amid channel, with extensive banks of mud rising to a considerable -height on each side of us,—the sight of which afforded much mirth -at the idea of our having rowed during high tide over hill and dale; -so much for our geographical knowledge and nautical skill! While in -this plight, one of the party was in the act of divesting himself of -superfluous dress, and tying the articles into a bundle, pleading in -excuse that an appointment with a _fair damsel_ obliged him to land. -A noisy debate ensued amongst us: by way of intimidating him at the -same time, a threat was added, that should he attempt to desert, some -small shot should be discharged at him. While we were loading the guns, -he sprang from the bark and scrambled some yards, assailed by the -vociferations of the party; but, before he had reached the prescribed -distance, twenty yards, his situation became most alarming: every -succeeding step, he sank deeper into the mire; and he was now up to -his middle, calling out for help, forty yards from us, and one hundred -from the shore. To return was impossible,—the fowling pieces dropped -from our hands, as we watched his motions in fearful anxiety, every -instant expecting to see him disappear. Despair gave him strength and -perseverance: but he became a mass of mud, and his features were no -longer distinguishable. I can truly assert, that at no period of my -life did I ever feel stronger feelings of commiseration; a hundred -weight seemed at my chest. In this way he continued his exertions, and, -from time to time, while resting, it could scarcely be ascertained -whether he was not gone altogether, so identified was he with the -mud. Again he moved, and at the expiration of half an hour's toil, he -emerged from his miry bed, presenting the appearance of an alligator, -after a wallowing immersion, more than any thing else! As he reached -the shore, the most unbounded expressions of joy on our part hailed his -deliverance from his perilous situation. Then, spreading out his bundle -of garments in a very dirty state, he put them on, waved his hand, and -speedily vanished from our view—whilst we, less adventurous, or not -being so particularly engaged on that evening, were left shivering and -lightly clothed, until some time after dark, when we had sufficient -depth of water to enable us to steer our course. When at length in -motion, the wind being astern, the only cloak amongst us was hoisted -by way of a sail, but it was long after midnight before we reached the -place from whence we had started. - -About this time (June 1, 1811), three hundred and twenty men of the -second battalion, with a proportionate number of officers, were ordered -to proceed to Portsmouth for embarkation to join the first battalion -in Portugal. On the morning of their departure the bugles sounded the -march. My mortification was extreme, for positively the last officer -was selected to accompany them, and two of my seniors stood by my side, -who of course had a prior claim to mine, and who could not succeed in -obtaining permission to go; so that all hope for me seemed now entirely -to vanish, and we were obliged to content ourselves by accompanying -them a short way on the road, until their first halt,—the merry notes -of the horns striking up "over the hills and far away," the signal for -wives to be torn from their husbands, children from their fathers, -friends from their companions,—many bidding a long and last farewell. -The detachment followed the broad path of their profession, while we, -through dire necessity, took that which led to peace and pasturage -amongst the Essex graziers; but no sooner had we reached our quiet -quarters, than another consultation took place, between Lieutenants -the Honourable Charles Gore, Wilkinson, and myself, wherein we pledged -ourselves, that the trio should not be separated for individual -interest, (and, as I was the junior officer, that point was of -consequence to me); then hastening to the house of the senior officer, -we assailed him _ensemble_ by entreaties and arguments, until, finding -we were bent on carrying our point, he consented to forward a memorial -to the Duke of York, penned by us, which he signed. That done, we ran -down to the post office, popped it into the box, and by return of post -a favourable answer was given. What a moment! Gore and myself rubbed -our hands and the little corporal Wilky (for that rank he had borne at -the Military College at Marlow, and still continued the title), fell -on his knees and returned thanks to Heaven, for his good fortune. Our -heavy baggage was crammed into the store, and ourselves, with light -hearts, that evening proceeded to London. - -Notwithstanding the usual hurry and preparation when going on foreign -service, I managed to find my way to Wimbledon Common, where, I heard, -a grand review was to take place on the 10th of June of the household -cavalry, a brigade of hussars, commanded by Lord Paget, (now Marquis of -Anglesea), a brigade of the foot guards, a battalion of foot artillery, -wearing cross belts and white pouches, armed with muskets, and a -multitude of volunteers, besides a proportionable train of artillery. -When the Prince Regent rode down the line, I was much struck at the -Duke of York's preceding him, dismounting in front of the two regiments -of foot guards, and standing with his sword across his body, while his -royal brother passed. This was an excellent example of discipline, so -like the prince, the soldier, and the gentleman. - -The next day, leaving the metropolis, we arrived at the place of -embarkation, and so managed as to meet the detachment about the same -distance from Portsmouth, that we had left them on the road from -Colchester; being not a little anxious to observe the astonishment -that our unexpected reappearance would create amongst them. - -My friend instantly ran towards me and expressed the happiness he felt -at meeting me in such a way; and, almost in the same breath, said, -"Oh! we have had such fun this morning!" On leaving Chichester at the -break of day, the head of the column had been thrown into the greatest -confusion by the assistant surgeon; "Halt! halt!" cried he, "stop, -pray stop; you are trampling on my teeth," at the same moment throwing -himself on the ground, and groping in the dust for four artificial -teeth that had dropped from his mouth. The officers and soldiers were -confounded at his exclamations, while the wondering circle encompassed -him in mute expectation. At length, having put several questions, -to which they only obtained confused and unintelligible answers, -an officer ordered the men to proceed; and several voices, joining -in chorus, exclaimed:—"Why, he's mad; the doctor's intellects are -impaired;"—for they did not fully comprehend his real loss, owing -to his wild incoherent and extraordinary gesticulations—nor did he -overtake the party or make his reappearance until they had halted at -the half-way house, where he found them seated round a smoking tea urn, -hot muffins, toast, chickens, ham, and all those little delicacies -so tempting after an early walk to those possessing youth, health, -and _good grinders_. The woe-begone countenance of the doctor, on his -entering the room, caused a momentary commiseration; but no sooner did -he open his mouth, and display the vacant orifice, which no longer left -any doubt of the nature of the loss he had sustained, than bursts of -merriment, and noisy pity, were the only consolation the unlucky and -crest-fallen _medico_ received—who merely vented his wrath in broken -monosyllables, no longer daring to trust his mouth with a laugh. - -The Monarch transport of three masts, and of considerable tonnage, was -lying at anchor at Spithead for our reception. Nearly the whole of us -being embarked, and the Blue Peter flying at the mast head on the 18th, -there was a sufficient warning to the few left on shore to hasten on -board. The sails being hoisted, and spreading their white bosoms to the -gale, we cut through the water, with a spanking breeze, cleared the -Needles, and, steering a prosperous course, in three days were brought -into the Bay of Biscay. The wind howled, the vessel heaved and cracked, -one instant on high, and the next moment hurried downwards as if about -to be ingulphed and buried in the mighty waters; the huge waves lashed -and beat against her sides with foaming violence, whilst every loose -article rattled about the cabin; the strife of pots and kettles being -only interrupted by the smashing of cups and saucers, and other brittle -utensils. During this combination of sounds I lay in my berth, with a -wash-hand basin betwixt my legs, ready at a moment's warning, and with -my eyes, half-closed, fixed on a solitary candle, sliding to and fro on -the table, and threatening to extinguish itself into one of the lower -berths. Thus stretched out, and sinking into a disturbed and feverish -slumber, I soon again awoke with my tongue parched, a horrible taste -in my mouth, and my lips glewed together, counting the tedious hours -of the coming morn, till I should be enabled to procure a refreshing -glass of water. At last the happy moment arrived, my trembling hand was -put forth to grasp the liquid stream—my mouth opened—but my nose gave -warning of that which smelt and tasted like the Harrowgate Spa, and was -any thing but _aqua pura_. The next evening I made an effort to gain -my sea legs, crept out of the cabin, mounted on the deck, and slipped -and staggered towards a poultry-coop, on which I sank in a reclining -position, to inhale the freshness of the air. The dark and broad clouds -flitted past, and at intervals veiled the moon, which seemed flying -away in the opposite direction, and smiling in derision at our clumsy -progress, (with double reefed topsails,) over the troubled waves. -Perpetual motion seemed at last accomplished, as the bows and stern of -the vessels rose alternately, and in rapid succession. In the morning -a thick haze hung over the atmosphere, through which we could discern -the outlines of the ponderous mountains of Spain, rising one above the -other, until their gloomy shadows were lost to view in the interior. - -On the tenth morning, with a gentle breeze, and spotless sky, we glided -along the rugged coast of Portugal, and observed a number of barks -making towards us, decorated with white flapping sails, and filled with -swarthy raggamuffin pilots, who were hallooing, pulling, and hauling at -each other in a confused way, which gave the frail bark the appearance -of being about to overturn keel uppermost, and leave its brown visaged -cocked-hatted navigators floundering and splashing for their existence -in the briny waves of the dark blue ocean. Shortly afterwards we -entered the sparkling waters of the Tagus, skirted by purple-capt -mountains, curling vines, fragrant orange groves, and a white city, -reflected in its glassy waters, canopied by an azure sky, a golden sun, -and a genial atmosphere. We dropped our anchor within a short distance -of Lisbon. - -The following day, the 28th, we landed, and the soldiers took up their -quarters at the Convento di Carmo. The interior of the city by no means -corresponds with the exterior, as viewed at a distance, owing to the -general narrowness of the streets that are choked up in some places -with heaps of filth, continually stirred up, and eagerly devoured by -packs of prowling and half-famished dogs. - -Towards evening a small piece of paper was handed to myself and friend, -with the name of a Portuguese inserted, at whose house we were to be -quartered. Having made the necessary inquiries of a bragging native, -he pointed out to us the direction we ought to take, and also made -motions, by way of intimating to us our good fortune in having so -spacious an abode for our accommodation. Having traversed over a great -portion of the town, in search of our billet, we at length came to a -large gloomy-looking mansion, the door of which we found open, and -ascended a dirty stone stair case, where at each landing-place we found -ponderous doors: but it was in vain we kicked, thumped, and called; the -echo of our own voices was the only answer returned. - -Night coming on, we again sallied forth into the streets, and, while -passing near a church, we met a procession following a deceased -nobleman for interment. Large wax tapers being offered to us, about -four feet long, and thick in proportion, we each grasped one, and -entered the church with others. The lid of the coffin being removed, we -beheld the pale corpse attired in a magnificent satin dress, and mantle -superbly embroidered with gold: the pantaloons were of white silk, and -full satin rosettes were attached to the velvet shoes. A full-dress -court sword lay by his side, and a black hat of velvet, with a nodding -plume of ostrich feathers, looped up with a brilliant stone, rested -at the head of the coffin. His costume, in short, was similar to that -worn by Don Juan on our own stage. The ceremony being concluded, a man -stepped forward with a basket filled with quick lime, which he threw -on the dead body in the presence of the spectators: that done, all the -by-standers instantly retired, and gave up their tapers to persons -waiting to receive them at the church door. - -Much fatigued, we returned, and reached the cloisters of the convent, -in search of our servants and baggage. While we were debating on the -best method of securing a place of rest for the night, an athletic -figure came stalking towards us, enveloped in the garments of a friar, -having a fine dark countenance, and jet black hair cut short and shaved -on the crown of his head, about two inches in diameter. He demanded how -it was that we seemed wandering about at so late an hour of the night. -We briefly informed him of our situation, when he most courteously -invited us to follow him and led us through several passages and up -many flights of stairs to a couple of small bed rooms at the very top -of the convent; then retired for a short time, and re-appeared, loaded -with wine and sweetmeats. My friend had previously been in the country, -and therefore could make himself understood; and, as he was acting -quarter-master (at eighteen) for the detachment, he was glad of this -opportunity which now offered to be near the men, to enable him to -superintend the serving out of rations early on the following morning. -Our host proved to be the abbot, and after a short conversation he -wished us a sound repose to follow our sea voyage, and retired. - -During our stay at Lisbon, we made a point of seeing the handsome -churches, the opera, the grand aqueduct and other curiosities. The -night previously to our quitting this place, the Consul gave a ball, to -which we were invited; and I was surprised to observe the Portuguese -gentlemen in coloured clothes, with pink and various-coloured silk -stockings. The costume of the ladies was gaudy, but their dresses were -ill made and worse put on. We only danced one set, and, some hours -having elapsed without any appearance of supper, (which was of serious -consideration to us, as we were ordered to be on the banks of the Tagus -the next morning at day light for the purpose of embarking in boats -for Villada, some distance up the river,) I explored a suite of rooms -at the extremity of which I espied on a sideboard a huge dish filled -with wafer cakes: but, not wishing to attack such a prize without an -ally, I hastened to my companion to communicate my good luck, who, -without further ado, assisted at their demolition. Although they -were the largest of the kind I had ever before seen, our young teeth -cracked them with an extraordinary rapidity; smash! smash! they went, -and two layers had now disappeared, when a Portuguese attendant out -of livery, observing such dreadful havoc, advanced to their rescue, -assuring us with solemn physiognomy that they were reserved for the -ladies. Hostilities ceased on their protector's consenting to procure -us a bottle of wine, two goblets of which we hastily swallowed, and -instantly sallied out into the odoriferous streets. "_Agua fresca, -agua fresca_" resounded from all quarters, while buckets of the most -nauseous contents fell with a splash from the upper stories of houses -into the space below—like the bursting of water spouts. "Conceal -yourself," cried my friend, "or you will be scented and sprinkled -all over." In this manner, running the gauntlet at every turning, we -proceeded until we reached the dark and narrow flight of stairs leading -to our heavenly apartments, where we had no sooner entered than I put -my foot on the body of a man, who lay stretched at full length across -the doorway. I hung back, and we regroping our way down into the court -yard, and alarming the guard, lights were procured: the rays of the -lamp fell on the face of my drunken snoring servant, encircled with -bottles—having emptied the contents into his own stomach. From the -effects of this he had scarcely recovered at the hour of our departure, -leaving me the agreeable task of packing up, and seeing my mule safe -off, as the baggage and animals were to cross the grand lines of Torres -Vedras, and meet us at the place of disembarkation. - -Passing through the principal streets, we entered the boats for our -conveyance (after a stay of eleven days at Lisbon) and landed in the -evening at Villada. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - March to Santarem and Abrantes—Scenery and incidents at - Aronches—Junction with some other regiments—Military scene in - a wood—Anticipatory reflections on the fate of some of the - author's comrades—Quarters at Portalagre, Castello de Vida and - Marvao—Bridge of boats across the Tagus—Contiguous - scenery—Horrors of travelling for invalids in the Portuguese cars. - - -Our animals and baggage having joined us the next day, we took the road -towards Santarem, and about dusk reached the causeway leading up a -steep hill into the town, where the French, previously to their retreat -under Marshal the Prince of Essling[11], had thrown the dead from their -hospitals into the wells,—the idea of which caused such horrible -thoughts, that we could scarcely summon up sufficient resolution to -drink while at that place. - -The excessive heat of the following day having somewhat subsided, -towards the cool of the evening we began our march, but, by some -unaccountable accident, took the wrong road for upwards of a league -before the mistake was found out. Retreading our steps, we at length -regained the identical spot from whence we had previously started -nearly three hours before; glancing my eye towards the battlements of -the town, a smile prophetic passed my countenance, that I should not -again behold its turrets. Turning our backs, and pursuing the right -road, we gaily tramped along toward Golegam; and, as the morning -dawned, I was loudly knocking for admittance at the door of a small -house, on the confines of the church-yard, that was strewed with skulls -which had been torn from the sepulchres and graves, in search of gold, -by the French soldiery. - -After the usual halt we pursued our march through Punhete to Abrantes, -where two of us were nearly carried away amongst the quicksands, while -bathing in the river Tagus, and only reached the shore by making the -greatest efforts. Various individuals had been drowned at this place by -the current. - -Having halted here one whole day, we crossed over the bridge of boats -to the southern province of the Alentejo, and entered Gaviao, where I -was billeted in a very poor house. At night I entered a recess, much -fatigued, and, upon quitting the mattrass in the morning, the bugs had -made such a feast on my right leg from the hip to the very sole of my -foot, so that I could scarcely walk, and was in a most dreadful state -of irritation. - -Passing onwards in our march, on the ninth day, we ascended a high hill -on the summit of which stood Aronches, commanding an extensive prospect -over a diversified sandy country, intersected with forests, vineyards, -rocks, and small fields of Indian corn, and encompassed by dilapidated -walls formed of loose stones carelessly heaped one on another without -mortar. The streets of the town were narrow, and almost deserted, with -huge shapeless rocks at every few yards, rearing their heads, and -blocking up the way, whilst a solitary Portuguese was seen striking -an old battered guitar with all his fingers (as on a tambourine) and -hallooing forth some ditty loud enough to be heard in the distant -valleys. The heat of the day was quite overpowering, the firmament was -of heavenly blue, while the sun shone forth in full splendour, forcing -us to retire to some shady spot from its scorching rays, and to take -some repose after the fatigues of the march. - -Towards the close of the evening we again stood on the ramparts to -inhale the cool and delicious air. The shades of night had scarcely -hidden the face of the country from our view, when the moon, rising in -all her grandeur, threw a pale light around, and tipped with silver -the battlements of those venerable towers built by the Moors, which -for centuries had endured, and had frowned defiance on the flitting -shadows of many generations, gliding by their grey walls unheeded -and forgotten. As we gazed in sweet contemplation on the surrounding -scenery, all nature seemed hushed, and the universe sunk into slumber, -when suddenly the bell of a monastery close at hand tolled loudly, -and in the gentle breeze, at intervals, we heard the solemn dirge -of a religious procession, which, by degrees, arose on the ear, and -gradually encreasing became louder, and swelled into such an awful -bass strain, as one might conceive to inspire reflection in the firm, -horrors in the nervous, and all the terrors of purgatory in the dying. -The long procession of monks passed us, wrapped in their sombre -drapery, as if they had emerged from the very bowels of the earth. The -scene was impressive. After we had retired, my slumbers were disturbed -by the horrors of the nightmare; and, when the merry rays of the sun -sparkled in at the windows the next morning, I felt as if delivered out -of some dungeon, longed for the camp, and hoped that, should fate cut -short my career, the sun and moon might alternately throw their rays -over my expiring body, rather than that I should die a lingering death, -surrounded by wax tapers and priest-craft, and then buried in satin -and gold, and finally extinguished by a basket of quick lime. - -On the 20th of July we descended into the valley, and, at the edge of -a wood, awaited the coming of the division, from an advanced camp on -their way to Castello de Vida. Every eye was on the stretch, and in the -distance we descried a cloud of dust rolling towards us, the bright -sparkling rays of the sun-beams playing on the soldiers' breast plates, -when suddenly the leading regiment of the light division burst forth; -their bronzed countenances and light knapsacks, and their order of -march, all united to inspire a conviction that their early discipline -had not only been maintained amidst privations, battles and camps, but -had become matured by experience. They had traversed mountains, and -forded rivers; the grim and icy hand of death had grasped many in the -unhealthy marshes of the Alentejo, and with sure effect had scattered -balls amidst their ranks without distinction: yet the remainder of -these veterans were still bent onwards, to gather fresh laurels in -the rugged and uncertain paths of fortune. Seven regiments of light -infantry and riflemen defiled before us with their thread-bare jackets, -their brawny necks loosened from their stocks, their wide and patched -trowsers of various colours, and brown-barrelled arms slung over -their shoulders, or carelessly held in their hands, whilst a joyous -buzz ran through the cross-belted ranks, as their soldier-like faces -glanced towards us to greet many of their old comrades now about to -join in their arduous toils after a long separation. A cloud of dust -alone marked their further progress as they receded from our view. -Following in succession, we brought up the rear. At the expiration of -an hour's march, we entered a wood, formed column, called the roll, -and the whole division was then dismissed. The assembled multitude of -voices, the tearing and cutting down of branches of trees, crackling -of fires, rattling of canteens, shooting of bullocks through the -head, and the hurrying of parties of soldiers for rum and biscuit for -rations, the neighing of horses, braying asses and rampant mules, all -resounded throughout the forest, giving new life and merry echoes to -its most intimate recesses. Groups of officers stood in circles; every -countenance seemed decked in smiles, and a hearty welcome greeted us -from all hands. - -Under the wide-spreading branches of a venerable cork-tree, decorated -with pack-saddles, accoutrements, and other military trappings, dinner -was served up and laid out on a pair of hampers, which served us -instead of a table. Beef, biscuit, tea, rum, and wine, composed our -fare, it being a usual custom to join breakfast and dinner, so as -to make one meal serve for the twenty-four hours, the troops merely -halting to cook and refresh themselves during the heat of the day. -A more happy meal, I can safely say, I never partook of; and with -infinite admiration did I regard the purple jackets and battered -epaulettes of my companions. Our small keg of wine being emptied, the -word passed to pack up and accoutre; and, in an incredibly short space -of time, the column re-formed. The "assembly" sounded (the signal of -march) threes, from the right of companies, the bands struck up, and at -the end of two hours' march, and towards nightfall, we entered another -wood. The same ceremony gone through as already described, the blankets -were spread out, the earth our bed, knapsacks our pillows, and the -overhanging trees our canopy; the busy hum of life no longer vibrated -through the bivouac, and thousands of soldiers slumbered and reposed -their weary limbs, lying scattered throughout the forest, or around the -dying embers of expiring fires. My companions insisted on stretching -themselves on each side of me, protesting that they ought to do thus, -as a protection against cold for the first two or three nights, since -a very heavy dew fell, so as almost to wet through the blankets, -notwithstanding the great heat of the weather by day. For some time I -was unable to close my eyes, owing to some insects flocking up my legs -in swarms, and creating much irritation. - -Let us, for a moment, withdraw the veil of futurity, and make a few -anticipations. On my right tranquilly slumbers a youthful warrior of -sixteen years old, and on my left unconsciously sleeps the other, one -year older. Lieutenant E. Freer is doomed to undergo two more years -of the toils of war, to suffer sickness and privation, and, at the -sanguinary assault of Badajoz, to receive a severe wound in the upper -part of the thigh; and lastly, at the age of nineteen, while in the -Pyrenees, a ball passes through his right arm, and enters his side: he -staggers, utters three words, and falls a lifeless corpse amid those -dreary regions! - -Lieutenant J. Considine, at the assault of Badajoz, receives a ball -through his body, and, stretched on the damp sod, enveloped in -darkness, bleeds inwardly. A light is held over his pale face, and -discovers the blood flowing from his mouth. Borne, however, to a place -of security, he recovers. The next year he is tormented by a malignant -fever, and afterwards, on the highest pinnacle of the Pyrenees, a ball -strikes him; his thigh-bone is broken near the hip: he cries for help. -I look down: he lies prostrate between my legs. The balls carry death -and destruction around: we are under the walls storming a fort, and -fighting hand to hand. Four soldiers attempt to carry him off, and, -not being aware of the place of his wound, hoist him up, and turn his -left foot outwards over his shoulder; by which means the thigh-bone is -completely broken asunder. His screams are dreadful, and two of the -soldiers fall dead, pierced with balls. The battle ended, he is carried -to a place of security, where he eventually recovers!—and he now -commands the 53d regiment. - -Early the next morning we were again on the road. The martial music -struck up, and continued to play for a short distance: the word -passed to march at ease: conversation then commenced. The soldiers -lighted their pipes; and, before the sun had reached its meridian, -we filed into Portalegre. The streets were marked off, in the first -instance, for different corps; then the houses, again, subdivided -amongst officers and soldiers; the latter portioned off according to -the size of the different dwellings; the butt ends of the soldiers' -firelocks serving as knockers, to rouse the sulky inmates, who would -fain plead ignorance of the arrival of so many guests. It was by no -means an uncommon occurrence for owners of houses to try all kinds of -expedients, by absence, paltry excuses, or otherwise, to drive away -the tired officers in disgust, who presented billets of lodgement. -One day, an officer on the staff had patiently waited some time at -a door without being able to gain admittance, until at length the -_patron_ walked up from the street and feigned civility, making a -low bow, and saying to the officer, "_Senhor_, I have no key;" when -the officer returned his salute, coolly lifted up his long leg, and -applied it to the door with such force that it flew open at the first -blow—then turning to the astonished Portuguese, said "_Senhor, tiengo -bon chave_"[12], and at a slow march and with clanking sabre, took -possession of the house. From that day he was known by the appellation -of _Bon chave_ throughout the army. - -Another division entered the town the same day. The army was composed -of eight divisions of infantry, besides cavalry and artillery; the -former force was known throughout the army by the following familiar -appellations: "the gentlemen's sons," "the surprisers," "the fighting -division," "the supporters," "the invisibles," "the never heard of," -"the all-sorts," and "the division:" but, before the end of this most -sanguinary war, they all fought again and again, covering themselves -with fame and lasting glory. - -The following day we proceeded to Castello de Vida, an ancient -fortified place within a league of Marvao. The first brigade entered -the town, and the second bivouacked in a grove without its walls. The -adjacent country presented a wild appearance; but more particularly the -latter town, which was perched on a rugged and stupendous mountain, -inaccessible on every side, save only one approach, and even that -impracticable for carriages, the road winding under the overhanging -shelving of rocks, others of which reared their rugged points in the -very middle of this (hardly to be so termed) pathway. A party of -us with difficulty ascended to this strange place, at a season of -the year when every particle of vegetation is parched and dried up. -The adjacent grey precipices presented a frightful wilderness,—the -hiding-place of innumerable wolves. The mind of the beholder on -surveying such a prospect became perplexed how so barren a spot, even -at the remotest period of antiquity, should have been fixed on for -any human habitation, far more for a fortification. Some cannon of -ancient construction were still on the ramparts, but few mounted, -and even the carriages of those mouldering to decay. Here and there -a few miserable Portuguese were observed basking in a sunny corner, -grouped and huddled together, and consisting of young and old women -with dark countenances, and still darker tresses, enveloped in shabby -blue cloth cloaks, and extracting _piochos_ from each other's heads; -that occupation being the greatest source of delight and amusement -amongst them. Their general food consisted of roasted chesnuts, washed -down with cold spring water—which caused their teeth to decay at a -very early age; and when they could procure a little dried fish, or -_sardines_, with black sour bread, they would consider it a point -of luxury. The extreme heat of the weather, and the exertions that -we had used to reach this spot, created excessive thirst; looking -round, therefore, in search of a house of entertainment, we espied a -leafless branch of a tree suspended over a doorway, which bespoke the -object of our search. On our entering and demanding wine, the corner -of a pig-skin was untied, out of which spouted the wine into a filthy -measure. It was strongly impregnated with the taste of the skin, about -milk warm, and exceedingly thick, owing to its having been recently -removed from a mule's back. These animals are usually loaded with -two dried pig-skins, sewed up and slung across a pack saddle for the -conveyance of wine from one place to the other—the muleteer being -astride in the middle, and, above all, singing a wild air, and beating -time with his heels against the bags. - -Quitting this isolated place, and returning to our quarters, we -remained there two or three days, and then resumed our march towards -the northern frontier. The first night we halted in a wood near -Niza. The next morning, an hour before day light, we started; and, -while passing over the summit of a high hill, as the morning dawned, -we observed a thick mist overspreading an extensive valley. As the -sun rose, its refulgent light pierced through the white fog, which -resembled a beautiful floating sea, out of which peeped forth the -tops of hills covered with investing shrubs. As the rolling mist -passed away, so these apparent islands enlarged, until nothing of this -enchanting illusion remained, except a bare country covered with _gum -cistus_, (a small tree,) producing a most sickly smell, and the more -particularly to those with empty stomachs. After a fatiguing weary -march, half suffocated by heat, added to which our eyes, nose, and -mouth, were filled with sand, we descended the pass of Villa Velha, -where we observed a number of vultures perched on the pinnacles -of inaccessible rocks, as if watching our motions, or waiting in -anticipation of more devoted victims. - -Crossing the Tagus by the bridge of boats, we bivouacked under the -agreeable shade of an olive grove. The surrounding scenery presented -every where a beautiful, romantic, and grand spectacle; the river -foamed over the rocks that had fallen into its dark stream from the -overhanging crags. The narrow road running at the base of the adjacent -mountains was filled with loose stones; woe, therefore, to the -sore-footed soldier who happened to stumble amongst them! Woe to the -sick or wounded to whose lot it fell to be placed in those Portuguese -cars, rudely constructed, with small solid wooden wheels, revolving on -an unoiled axletree, and causing an indescribable creeking noise to be -heard at a very considerable distance; sounds so horrible, that the -bigotted peasantry declare they frighten away the evil spirit of Old -Nick himself! - -The jolting of these vehicles frequently tore off the plasters, and -ripped open anew the wounds of the suffering soldiers; nor was it -at all unusual to behold the sick, wounded, and dying, with pallid -countenances expressive of unheard-of agonies, while these engines of -torture, drawn by a pair of bullocks, with their heads thrust under a -shapeless piece of wood, (for the purpose of yoking them together,) -rolled on their heavy way. The conductor guided them with a long pole, -with a piece of pointed iron at the end of it, which he poked into the -beasts' necks, and directed them by such sort of "sharp practice." - -[Footnote 11: Massena.] - -[Footnote 12: A jargon mixture of the Portuguese, Spanish, and -French languages was frequently resorted to in our anxiety to make -ourselves understood by the natives, and when one word failed another -was substituted. An officer who had just entered the country was -most anxious to procure an egg, and having failed to make himself -understood, as a last resource, he cut a piece of _pipe-clay_ into the -shape of an egg, and was instantly supplied.] - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - March continued—Wild and striking aspect of the country—Excellence - of discipline—Camp followers—Spanish peasant girls and - men—Plain of Fuente de Guinaldo—Reflections on a soldier's - life—A vegetable conflagration—Village of Martiago—Difficulties - of the French—Arrival in cantonments—The paymaster's - peculiarities. - - -Continuing our route through the town of Castello Branco and several -villages, we obtained to the left a view of the tremendous ridge of -snow-capt mountains of the Sierra d'Estrella. The barrier of bare and -rugged rocks towards the Spanish side, when gilded by the departing -glare of the setting sun, assumes the grandest appearance, and, in the -revellings of imagination, a thousand palaces of burnished gold may -be fancied amid these adamantine rocks, vieing with each, other in -height and endless variety of form. Afar off, an old monastery might -be descried, perched on the summit of bare and wild precipices; its -spiral turrets shooting on high, and encompassed by the immensity -of space; the frowning battlements overhanging the valley below, and -threatening to overwhelm the passing traveller with loose stones and -crumbling ruins—while the deep tones of the monastic bell chimed the -vesper hour. On a solitary eminence a lonely shepherd stood, tending -his flock, with a carbine slung across his shoulder, and a couple of -wolf-dogs crouching at his feet, their necks encircled by strong iron -collars bristling with long spikes, to protect them against the gripe -of the voracious wolves. All around seemed of other times in this -precipitous part of the country, composed principally of solid rock. -The rude hand of time had identified towns and villages with their -primitive stones; houses had fallen to decay, but nothing new had -arisen on the ruins; streets branched out, but it was no wise uncommon -to find huge rocks, of many tons weight, sticking up in the middle -of them, never having been removed, and leaving the traveller the -option of a choice of one of the two narrow roads round these natural -obstacles. - -As the division threaded its march over winding and difficult -roads, its horse-artillery might be heard rumbling in the rear, -while the winding notes of the bugle horns echoed in the distant -valleys. Major-General R. Craufurd commanded the light division. -His arrangements and regulations of march stood unrivalled: at the -expiration of every hour, the division formed close columns of -regiments, and halted for about ten minutes; the leading corps were -generally again marching off by the time the rear came up. When any -obstacles came across the line of route, each officer, commanding a -company, saw that they were closed up before he put them into the -regular marching pace, and that even if a break in the column happened -of fifty yards between each company. I have frequently witnessed the -whole division marching in this manner through a difficult country, by -which means they were always in hand, ready to engage by companies. If -a man found himself exhausted between the halts, the senior officer of -the company ordered him to have a ticket, which he was obliged to hand -over on his arrival in camp, or to shew to any one who questioned him -on the road as to his authority for being absent from his corps. - -The code of discipline was very strict; but every one knew exactly that -which was required of him, and, in the event of any irregularity even -on the line of route, amidst wilds and mountains, no matter where, the -column was closed up _instanter_, and a summary punishment inflicted -on the spot. This was far from harsh treatment: it was lenity in -the end; it preserved the health of the soldiers, by keeping them in -their ranks; it maintained discipline and concentration, the great -requisites in war; it prevented marauding on the inhabitants; soldiers -were debarred from coming to unpleasant collisions and assassin-like -encounters; and thus peace and harmony were established among those -whom we were bound to defend. The followers of the division (and of the -army) were composed of lank Barbary bulls and bullocks; mules loaded -with bags of biscuit, kegs of rum, kegs of ball cartridge, reserve -ammunition; a few hardy women (mistresses, or wives of soldiers) -mounted on strong and weak asses; Portuguese boys, drivers; officers' -milch goats; purveyors and medicine chests; and sometimes a few -suttlers, headed by a man better known by the name of _Tick_, owing to -his giving credit to officers in precarious times. This person, by the -bye, as a natural consequence, would lay on an enormous per centage for -small articles of luxury; disposing of bread itself at nine shillings a -four-pound loaf. Tea, sugar, and brandy in a proportionate ratio. - -On the 9th of August we emerged from Portugal, and passed Albergeria, -a village on the Spanish frontier. My astonishment and curiosity were -highly excited on observing the extraordinary difference between the -natives of Spain and Portugal, and that it could be possible, for -people living so near one another, to be so dissimilar in complexion, -costume, and manners,—even when inhabiting respectively the banks of -a narrow stream, which holds its course near the frontier of the two -kingdoms, being scarcely two yards wide, and only ankle deep. - -The merry Spanish peasant girls came forward with bold smiles and -strutting steps, greeting us in familiar terms, such as _Vivan los -Ingleses_; _vivan los Coluros, y Mil años a ustedes_; then pulling out -their castanets, jumping and saying, _den nosotros la musica: vivan -los Ingleses_. Others came running forward with pitchers, and, against -all rules, broke the ranks, insisting on supplying the soldiers with -water. Some of them were extremely pretty; their lively manner and -becoming costume made them appear to great advantage. Their complexions -generally are of a fine healthy brown, they have sparkling black eyes, -and dark hair combed back and tied in a knot with a bunch of black -ribbons, hanging down their backs; their jackets of brown or blue cloth -are laced up the front, and slit open at the sleeves, so as to display -a white chemise. Their petticoats are of various bright colours, -reaching just below the knee; and their stockings are red, blue, and -white, most fancifully worked up the middle of the calf of the leg; -their feet are remarkably small, with silver buckles in their shoes, -besides gold or silver ornaments in their ears and round their necks. -When going to church or visiting each other, they wear a black cloth -mantilla over the head, and held across the breast with both hands. -On entering a place of worship, they cross themselves quickly and -drop down on the pavement on both knees, looking very devout, unless -some object of attraction happens to catch their attention. The male -peasantry are hardy and well-made, but by far the shortest race of -men I ever saw in any other country, although their picturesque dress -gives them the deceptive appearance of a height which they really do -not possess. Their principal amusement out of doors is the game of -hand ball, or throwing an iron bar with the right hand a considerable -distance, and also pitching it betwixt their legs in various other -ways which may suit their fancy. On sundays and fête days they dance -_boleros_ with their village maids, who beat time with their castanets -and sing when music cannot be procured. That favorite dance is formed -by four or eight couple standing opposite one another, not unlike the -formation of a quadrille party. The male attire in the province of Leon -is a large _sombrero_, or broad-brimmed hat, with a wide black ribbon -tied round it; a brown jacket slit open at the sleeves; a blue or green -velveteen waistcoat decorated with two rows of long-shanked silver -buttons, and cut out at the breast, showing a white shirt, handsomely -plaited or worked, with a collar about half an inch wide, fastened -with a clasp. The belt round their waists is of durable leather, about -five inches broad. Their breeches are dark brown, stockings of similar -colour, with shoes and silver buckles. When they go out, or during -holidays, they envelope themselves in large brown cloaks, which they -throw gracefully over the shoulder, and conduct themselves with a -manner and deportment very far beyond the peasantry of other countries. -Their villages are built in a cluster round good churches, the body of -those edifices towering high above the small houses of one story high -that encircle them. The floor is usually composed of earth beat down to -a hard substance. There is no glass in the windows, which are merely -small square apertures, one foot by six inches, divided by an iron bar, -with a little shutter on hinges, which is closed at night. Their usual -furniture consists of a bedstead, wool or straw mattress, covered by -very coarse sheets and blankets, a table, two or three forms with backs -to them, a large chest with a partition for the double purpose for -stowing away flour and holiday apparel. Sometimes in winter a brass -pan with handles is used under the table, which they fill with hot -embers to keep their lower extremities warm. The only chimney in the -house is in the kitchen, where they use a small iron lamp filled with -_aziete_ or oil, and burn wood from their neighbouring forests; and -when afar removed from woods, and that article becomes scarce, charcoal -is substituted for cooking. Their usual food is sausages, garlic, and -chocolate, the latter made into cakes ready sweetened, but only used as -a luxury, and mixed so thick, that a tea spoon will stand upright in -it. The bread is extremely white, and compressed, without yeast, made -in the shape of a pancake, being ten inches in diameter, and about two -inches and a half thick, and weighing four pounds. - -The women wash by the side of streams, and continue to dip the articles -in the water, and then strike them on a large round stone, on which -they kneel, and, finally, lay them on the ground to dry; by which means -they bleach their linen very white. - -It is curious to observe a mother dressing a young child: after putting -on its petticoat, she rolls several yards of coarse cloth so tight -round the body of the infant, that a stranger would conceive it would -be unable to respire, as its little arms stick out horizontally. - -We continued our march over the plain of Fuente de Guinaldo, and within -half a league of that place took up our ground in a wood, where we -encamped, that is to say, cut down branches of trees, and constructed -huts; and although the canopy of heaven, or a rudely formed hut, for -months in succession, was the only shelter for the troops, the bivouac -resounded with merriment, and afforded frequent good cheer. For my own -part, I felt perfectly happy; my eyes and inclinations were directed -towards the front; I felt myself securely lodged on _terra firma_, and -no longer a sort of amphibious animal. I had escaped the dreadful fever -and mortality of Walcheren, nor could I well call to mind the having -ever experienced a day's serious illness. This was about the period -of the year when the sickly season commenced; but I flattered myself -that any impression on my unimpaired constitution was quite out of the -question; in fact, I never troubled myself with gloomy thoughts: a wide -field was now open, to which I looked forward with great anticipation, -little dreaming of the example that was about to be visited, in the -space of a short week, on my active limbs. - -What situation is superior to the camp? and what period of a soldier's -life is called to mind in such glowing colours as the days of youth, -when he was reclining under the shady branches of a forest oak, -surrounded by young companions in arms, with light pockets and still -lighter hearts, cheerfully talking to each other of glittering and -moving armies, and all the imposing grandeur and pomp of war?—or fancy -him nourishing the fonder feelings, and expatiating on the beauty of -some foreign damsel, by whose wit and graces all hearts are captivated; -while many another, more constant, indulges the fond hope of once more -clasping the native mistress of all his thoughts to his arms, on his -return to his own shores. - -Spain, of all countries, tends to produce in the mind the most romantic -thoughts, from the salubrity of its climate, its diversified scenery, -clear sky, and bright sun—a sun which shines throughout the summer -from morning till night, so that to those who sleep under the canopy of -heaven all days seem the same, and when summer closes and clouds darken -the atmosphere, the preceding season appears to the imagination as one -continued day. These and many other feelings are indelibly fixed on -the mind of a soldier, who closes his eyes on the highest mountains, -in the deepest vallies, in woods, in morasses, in dusty, parched, and -arid plains, or amid orange groves, luxuriant gardens, and beneath the -marble fountain; or amidst frost and snow—the inmate alike of the -palace, or of the peasant's menial hut—one night reposing on a bed -of down, enveloped by satin drapery, the next stretching his tired -limbs on the ground, or on a miserable bed filled with vermin—one hour -gazing on the sumptuous, light, flowing drapery and satin slipper of -the graceful _señora_, the next on the ruddy healthy cheek of the more -humble _muchacha_. All these opposite changes attend the soldiers' -career in rapid succession. - -But lo! dinner is served up and announced. A truce to reflections! -While we were employed handling our knives and forks, displaying a -hungry dexterity, and bolting morsels of unchewable ration beef, a -smoke was observed issuing from a valley, in the direction of our -outposts, a mile to the front, which continued to increase, and then -burst into a flame. A gentle wind blew towards our bivouac. The blaze -increasing, and extending with great velocity, the cry of "fire," -resounded from all quarters—"The camp's on fire." All was confusion; -officers and soldiers seizing their baggage, ammunition, and horses. In -the mean time, some tore large branches from the trees, and advanced -to check the devouring element, the dried corn burning and whizzing -towards us with the noise of a whirlwind; the heat was excessive; -opposition was useless; the trees of the forest blazing away like -a whisp of straw; and the whole brigade were _en déroute_, flying -to save their lives, by reaching the road, where the second brigade -had hastily formed, with boughs in their hands, as a last effort to -endeavour to repel this vast conflagration. Fortunately the wood here -ended, and the grass burnt itself out to the edge of the sandy road, -which was one of great width, such as are frequently met with in the -open parts of Spain. Had I not been an eye-witness to so quick and -extensive a devastation made in a short time, I could hardly have -pictured to my mind such a grand and awful spectacle. - -Taking up fresh ground for the night, we descended in the morning the -precipitous banks of the river Agueda, leading to the remote village -of Martiago, nearly at the base of the Sierra de Gata. On the night -we entered it, a pack of famished wolves devoured a donkey, and tore -the hind quarters of a horse away. The poor animal was found in the -morning, having crawled from his ferocious pursuers into the middle of -the village for refuge, in that miserable condition. - -Ciudad Rodrigo was to be reconnoitred. As convoys of stores and -provisions were expected from Salamanca, through the great forest, of -four days' march, between those places; and as Don Julien Sanches, -with his Guerillas, hovered about ready to cut off all small parties, -the French were under the necessity, with incalculable inconvenience, -to assemble their army, stretched over a great extent of country, to -keep the inhabitants under control, to protect their hospitals, levy -contributions, and to make perpetual countermarches in order to keep -open their line of communication. - -On the 11th of August, before daylight, our division was bending its -course over ravines, and almost impassable pathways, to show front -during a reconnoissance made by Lord Wellington, who usually wore in -the field, at this period, a small low-crowned cocked hat, a blue -pelisse coat, and a Hussar sash. - -The sun blazed forth as usual, (for not a drop of rain had fallen since -I had put my foot into the country), and biscuit and rum were served -out to refresh the exhausted soldiers; a humble refection which no one -would think of grudging to those who had been under arms for ten hours, -under a burning sun, and crowning the highest hills without a bush to -shelter them, or a drop of water to refresh their parched lips. - -With my rum in one hand, making a shallow appearance at the bottom of a -soldier's tin, and my mouldy biscuit in the other, I beheld an officer -approach me, in the act of drawing from his bosom an old ragged black -silk neck-handkerchief worn out in the service, and now converted into -a pocket-handkerchief. He fumbled it over for a whole corner to apply -his nose to; and during this operation, his eyes were fixed on my tin. -After a variety of hems, coughings, and such like indications, he took -courage to beg that I would permit him to dip his dry biscuit into -my shallow allowance of rum, to moisten his lips: his request being -granted, and thanks returned for the given relief, he told me that, -in the hurry to grasp his share, he had unfortunately upset it on the -ground, and had the additional mortification to see it dry up in an -instant. - -We were spread out rank entire within sight of the garrison, for the -governor to suppose our force stronger than it really was, so that he -might inform the Duke of Ragusa, and oblige him to bring up and deploy -his whole army, for the protection of his intended convoy. - -Late in the evening we reached our cantonments in good spirits, though -well tired, but not so much so as to prevent my making a good meal. -Turning into a small recess, and getting into bed for the first time -for weeks, after some hours I awoke rather feverish, went to the door -in my shirt to cool myself, and found the air so refreshing that I -continued stationary for a considerable time, certainly much longer -than my prudence ought to have dictated; however, I did not feel any -ill effects from it at the time. - -On the day following, our paymaster was encircled by a group of -officers, who were listening to his odd remarks, relative to warfare. -He declared that he hated _bullets_ and _swords_, but with fists he -flattered himself he was able to cope with, and would not turn his -back on any man. "Oh!" said he, "how I should like to see a fine -boiled leg of pork, and a pease pudding, smoking before me; why the -very thought makes me ravenous, and I could eat any thing, from a -gnat to an elephant; yes sir, I could eat an elephant stuffed with -militiamen!" Then with both hands, pulling his cheeks, his breeches and -his waistcoat, for in quarters he actually wore the identical dress he -had joined the regiment in; "Look at these," said he, "why they fitted -me as tight as a drum before I came to this cursed country; and look at -them now! Well, only let me get my wife on my knee by my comfortable -fire-side once more, and, if ever I leave old England again, may I -be ——! and as my poor brother _did die_, I wish he had taken his -departure before he ever persuaded me to enter the army!" - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - The author is attacked by illness—Miseries of military travelling - in that condition—Quarters at Celorico—The author's difficult - recovery—Grievous sufferings endured by the soldiers affected - with fever in the sickly season—Death of the Paymaster—The - author rejoins his Division—Movements of the French—A clerical - case of disaster—The contested mattress—A dance—Expensive - celebration of Christmas—Story of the German suttler—Village and - neighbourhood of Fuente de Guinaldo—Theatrical representations by - the English officers. - - -Three days after our long reconnoissance I became blind with -ophthalmia, was seized with violent rheumatic pains in the soles of -my feet, and took to my bed. My legs and knees swelled to an enormous -size, first turning red, then blue, and I was no longer able to move. - -Many other officers became sick, and were ordered to the rear. I for -one, mattress and all, was shoved into a Spanish car. Our feelings -during the passage of the Agueda were indescribable.—Ye invalids, -stretched on your beds of down! comfort yourselves; submit to your -pains with Christian philosophy, and bless your lucky stars that you -did not belong to the army of Portugal. Rejoice that your very lives -are not shaken out of you by such ups and downs; first over one rock, -then over another, and dragged along by bullocks sometimes forced -into a run, owing to the steepness of the adamantine roads. I could -no longer bear the terrible pain. In my shirt, with my legs enveloped -in bandages of the car, I begged and entreated to be lifted out, -being quite helpless and blind. To get on a mule's back was quite out -of the question, my legs and knees were so inflamed. At length some -sick soldiers offered to try and carry or rather drag me from rock to -rock. First I got a jolt on one side, then an unintentional bump on -the other; the men were exhausted; and I entreated them to hold up my -feet, (while my head lay in the road), for I could not bear them on the -ground. At the end of the second day's tormenting journey, we entered -Castel Nero. The cars were drawn round a stone fountain, and while -waiting for our billets from the _Juez de Fora_, the howling of wolves -was distinctly heard in all directions, amid the surrounding woods and -rocks. - -For five burning days we travelled from morning until nightfall at -the rate of a mile an hour. Each night I was dragged out of the car, -mattress and all, shoved into some horrible recess that was almost -alive with vermin, and replaced in my uneasy vehicle in the morning -for the continuation of the journey. On the fifth day, when within two -leagues of Celorico (the place of our destination), we drew up, as -Major Ellers of our regiment requested that he might rest for a short -time, since he could no longer bear the jolting of his vehicle; in a -few minutes however he expired, and his body was carried forward and -interred. - -The heat of the weather was almost past endurance. On our arrival -at Celorico, with an empty room for my quarter and the floor for -my resting place, I remained sixty days nearly immoveable, my only -covering a filthy blanket, which had been stained all over from my -mule's sore back. On the journey it had been placed under the animal's -pack saddle to save its back, by day, while in turn I had the benefit -of it as a covering by night. In this miserable plight, what with -bleeding and blistering, and long confinement, I had become a perfect -skeleton, and reduced to the most wretched condition. Five medical -officers came to hold a consultation at the foot of my mattress, and, -having examined my now lank legs, and big feet, they assured me, -that they could not hold out any hope of a speedy recovery, and even -doubted whether I should ever again be enabled to straighten my right -leg, the knee of which had become contracted during the pains of my -rough journey. The staff doctors held out every inducement to persuade -me to go to England, by first offering a spring waggon to convey me -to Lisbon. My suffering had been great, my arms hung nearly useless -by my side, my legs refused their office: yet I still cherished the -hope, that they would again, carry me forward. Doctor Mac Lean most -kindly pressed me to acquiesce in their advice, but without effect: -(poor gentleman—I understood he died a few days subsequently of a -fever!)—how could I leave the army, whom I found amongst mountains -feeding on hard biscuit and drinking rum impregnated with the -mosquitoes? A pretty warlike story to recount at home! The very thought -was frightful! More bleeding and blistering were therefore resorted -to, by which means, added to a good constitution, at the expiration of -another month I was enabled with the assistance of crutches to reach -my window, the trellis work of which being thrown open offered me -ineffable delight at once more enjoy the sight of a few living objects -in the street. - -The rain now fell in torrents for days together, and thousands of -British and Portuguese soldiers (now crowding the churches which -had been converted into hospitals) were dying by hundreds, of fever -produced by the sickly season. The excruciating torments, suffering -and privations of the common soldiers were such, that an adequate -description is impossible,—many of them lingering in raging fevers, -stretched out on the pavement, the straw that had been placed for their -comfort, having worked from under them during their agonies, while -hundreds of flies settled on and blackened their dying faces: and so -stationary did these tormentors become, that those who still maintained -sufficient power were obliged to tear them from off their faces, and -squeeze them to death in their hands. Cars piled up, and loaded with -the remains of these unfortunate victims to disease, daily passed -through the streets for the purpose of pitching their bodies into some -hole by way of interment. The medical officers were overpowered by the -numbers of sick, and also fell ill themselves, so that it was a total -impossibility, notwithstanding their strenuous efforts, to surmount -all difficulties, and to pay that attention to all that could have -been wished. The very hospital orderlies were exhausted by attending, -burying, and clearing away the dead. These scenes of misery cannot -be fancied: the sick pouring into the town, lining the streets, and -filling every house, set at nought all theoretical conception. - -Our paymaster entered the town with a raging fever. His hopes were not -realized: he never again beheld his wife or his comfortable fire side. -At the end of a few days' anguish he expired, and was buried with the -rest. - -Captain Poppleton was the commandant at this station. Officers of other -corps held similar commands (with certain privileges) at _Belem_, -_Santarem_, _Niza_, and other towns for the purpose of regulating -quarters for the sick and stragglers of the army. - -At the expiration of four unhappy months I became so far convalescent, -as to be enabled to proceed to join my corps. I counted every step -forward which carried me further from the hated and detestable _dépôt_, -where every surrounding object depicted misery, and where, when the -_lively_ army happened to be in motion, such gloomy reports were -spread, as to intimidate the sick and frighten the convalescents out -of the country. Having passed through Guarda, Sabugal, and several -miserable Portuguese villages, at the expiration of five days I -reached Fuente de Guinaldo, the head quarters of the division. It -is unnecessary to say that a hearty welcome hailed my arrival, and -various interesting incidents, which had occurred since I left, were -related by my companions, but none were more agreeable to my sanguine -mind, than to hear that the division had not fired a shot during the -time of my absence; so far dame Fortune had befriended me. - -The enemy, under the Duke of Ragusa, had advanced on the 25th of -September to throw provisions into Rodrigo, and had attacked the fourth -division at Adea de Ponte, and part of the third division, who had -distinguished themselves against the French cavalry on the heights near -El Bodon, they having made several vain efforts to break their little -squares for two leagues over firm charging ground; little, I repeat, -because the regiments composing the brigade were very weak in point of -numbers. - -The light division was stationed on the right bank of the Agueda, -hovering on the enemy's left flank; but, owing to the central attack, -it was obliged to march _à détour_, so as to accomplish a concentration -with the third division at Fuente de Guinaldo. This was done with the -loss of one man, and that was the _parson_ attached to the division, -who had entered a house and turned snugly into bed, while the soldiers -were shivering on the ploughed ground with keen appetites. During the -night, the troops retrograded a short distance, suffering all the while -from cold. The march was much impeded owing to a trifling stream in -the road, and other obstacles, which the soldiers could not at first -surmount, for the extreme darkness. By some accident the parson was -not aware of this movement. Towards morning, while wrapped in the arms -of Morpheus, he felt a gentle tap, and on opening his leaden eyelids, -he saw four French heavy dragoons wrapped in white cloaks, with -weather-beaten visages and huge mustachios, (crowned by brazen helmets, -surmounted with tyger skins,) hanging over him in deep consultation on -the best way of disposing of his person. The debate closed by their -allowing him to put on his sable garments, to be conveyed a prisoner -to the governor of Ciudad Rodrigo, who, on being informed of his -harmless pursuits, gave directions for his liberation, so that he might -go in search of the English army. On his being conducted to the gate -of the town, the French soldiers rudely divested him of his coat and -waistcoat, using their feet besides, in a most unceremonious manner, -and left him to pursue his journey in his shirt sleeves. - -Although the house occupied by the officers of the company was small, -they declared that I should not seek a bed elsewhere; and one of my -friends assured me that he would soon supply me with that article. -Without further ado he hastily retired, and in a few minutes we heard -a great uproar in the street, and, making for the door, we found my -friend running towards the house loaded with a mattress on his back, -and pursued by a woman out of whose house he had taken it. Rushing into -the room breathless and convulsed with laughter, he threw it on the -floor, which he had no sooner done than the furious owner burst in, -and, laying violent hands on it, began to tug away, showering forth a -string of Spanish imprecations, too numerous to mention, but easily to -be guessed at by those who have heard such refined salutations from an -enraged Spanish _muger_. It was not until her strength had entirely -failed her that she would admit of an explanation; but, on money being -offered her, she turned away indignantly; and as she had not shown any -relaxation of the muscles of her brown visage, and her large black eyes -continued to express unutterable things, the officer thought it better -to reload himself and return that which, in a frolicsome moment, he had -carried off with so much dexterity; but the woman pulled it from off -his shoulder, and, with all the natural generosity of the sex, gave him -the use of it, (as it was for a convalescent comrade,) as long as it -might be required. - -A dance was to take place that evening. The officers, therefore, put on -their best uniforms, and decorated themselves with all the precision -and care used when about to attend a ball of a more enlightened circle. - -On entering the room we observed the females decorated in their -best attire and trinkets. The band struck up a _bolero_; that being -concluded, the male peasantry retired, leaving their mistresses to hop -down our country dances, and to instruct us in those figures we had -attempted to teach them. Generals, and all ranks, mixed in these rustic -dances, where a variety of little coquetries were practised on the -half-enamoured swains. The smell of garlic was scarce tolerable; but -these were no times for niceties. - -Every effort was exerted to do ample justice to Christmas. The -different officers' messes dined alternately with each other, to -partake of lean roast beef and plumb pudding. Poultry was procured; in -fact, no expense was spared. A four pound loaf cost a dollar; moist -sugar three _pecetas_ a pound, and every other commodity equally -expensive; still the festive board was well supplied, and the evenings -most joyfully spent. - -One of the suttlers who had taken post with our division, to amass a -fortune, was a German of ordinary appearance with a pretty wife. Here -it so happened that our serjeant-major, a man of portly figure, was -possessed of more small talk than usually falls to the lot of men in -his station of life; and, being remarkably fond of good living, and -other amusements, proved a very losing customer at the above worthy -suttler's shop, who could not help seeing the decline of that stock -which he had brought from Lisbon at so much expense; besides other -annoyances which he _could not see_. He, therefore, in a fit of -extreme irritation, without his hat, made for the commanding officer's -quarters, where he entered unceremoniously, and then laid bare all his -wrongs. "_Sare_," said he, "_your serjeant major is a very bad man. He -drinky my wine. He eaty my sugar. He drinky my tea and my coffee. He -kissy my vife, and he kick * * *. Sare, your serjeant-major is a very -bad man._" - -Every morning the officers were engaged rehearsing their different -parts, or superintending the making of theatrical dresses, (as the -tragedy of Henry IV was to be performed by various officers,) and -scene painting. The latter was principally executed by Bell, (the -assistant quarter master general of the division,) in an old chapel, -within one hundred yards of the village, which had been gutted of its -ornaments by the French or the priests. - -The compact and small village of Fuente de Guinaldo stands on an -eminence in an open plain, encircled at a certain distance by a number -of stone crosses, said to have been placed there by the peasantry to -frighten away evil spirits. There are no enclosures, no out-barns, or -farm houses, in this part of Spain, which gives the plain during winter -a very lonely aspect, skirted as it is by a distant wood, and a ridge -of wild mountains on the summit of which is a monastery, which is only -to be seen on a clear day; for if the weather is at all hazy, it is -enveloped by clouds. The communication from one village to another, is -a sort of track beaten into the shape of a road by the footsteps and -small traffic of many generations. - -The natives of this part of the country form a little colony, unmixed -by a second order of society, as there is no resident beyond the rank -of a peasant, the principal holding the authority of _Alcalde_, and -completely governing the village in all judicial affairs. He exercises -his power with mildness, which is perceptible in the independent -manners of the people. - -The girls sing very pretty airs in praise of some renowned chieftain, -or of her who happens to be the acknowledged beauty. Maria Josepha, -of Fuentes de Onor, was the happy _Moza_ whose charms were extolled -at this period: but what most struck my attention was a song about -Marlborough's knowing how to make war, and sung to the same tune -as in England. The mothers lull their children to sleep by it; and -when bodies of troops enter towns, or the girls dance _boleros_, -this is a general tune. I inquired of a _muchacha_ where she learnt -it; she opened her eyes with a ludicrous surprise, and made answer, -in the quick witty manner usual amongst the Mozas, "Why, of my -grandmother,—_Que edad tiene V. M?_"[13]—by way of giving me a hint -not to consider myself the instructor. - -The long expected night of performance having arrived, written bills -of the play having been distributed throughout the village (which was -filled like a bee hive with officers who had come from a considerable -distance from other divisions of the army, with flowing camlet cloaks, -and mounted on _boricos_, mules, and ragged-mained stallions;) and -tickets being issued for pit and boxes, we moved in Bacchanalian groups -towards _el Teatro_ (or chapel). It was crammed to excess, as we had -not forgotten to reserve some room for _los soldados_. The curtain no -sooner drew up, than the wonder of the _Muchachas_ knew no bounds, and -they became so loquacious in admiration of the scenery and dresses, -and in disputing among themselves which was _el Principe_, and which -the various characters the officers were to personify, that it was -a considerable time before they could be so far tranquillized as to -permit the performance to proceed, which, however, went off with great -eclat. "Poins, and be hanged." Alas! no. Poor Poins was badly wounded, -and blown up a few days after! - -[Footnote 13: How old are you?] - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - Preparations for the siege of Ciudad Rodrigo—A review of the - light Division by Lord Wellington—The fort and convent of - Saint Francisco taken—Storming the breach—Capture of the - place—Regulations for the prevention of plunder—Disorders - committed in the city—Remarks and anecdotes connected with - the siege—Burial of General Craufurd—Removal of quarters - to El Bodon—Vestiges of the previous engagement near that - place—Ciudad Rodrigo consigned to a Spanish garrison—March - towards Badajoz—Castello de Vida—Fortress of Elvas—An - accidental acquaintance. - - -At the expiration of some months' travail by the engineer department, -in procuring stores from various places, active operations were -commenced to collect them near at hand,—such as the battering train, -cannon balls, ammunition, gabions, fascines, scaling-ladders, sand -bags, shovels, spades, pickaxes, &c.—for the purpose of laying -siege to Ciudad Rodrigo, (in the province of Leon,) which stands on -an eminence on the right bank of the river Agueda, surrounded by an -open country, and was garrisoned by two thousand French soldiers. The -walls of the fortress are rather more than a mile and a quarter in -circumference, enclosing monasteries, convents, and churches,—which -gives the city at a distance the appearance of an immense gothic castle. - -A few days previously to the siege, Lord Wellington reviewed the light -division on the plains of Guinaldo. He was dressed in full uniform, and -merely rode down the line, looking at the troops in a cheerful manner. -Just as his Lordship was leaving the ground, which was covered with -snow, General Craufurd appeared, and soon after the troops returned to -their quarters. The second brigade came from Martiago, and returned -that night—an immense march. A few days subsequently to this review, -the whole division was concentrated, the first brigade moving to La -Encina, the second to El Bodon. During this march a tremendous storm -of sleet and snow took place; the snow froze and adhered to the horses -hoofs, forming balls which raised them several inches from the ground. -Fortunately, the march was short, as fatigue-parties of soldiers were -obliged to return to prop up the weak and staggering baggage-animals, -that had suffered previously from bad provender. - -On the 8th of January, 1812, the light division crossed the Agueda, -_sans culotte_, (_a cooler!_) at a ford about four miles above Ciudad -Rodrigo. The day was fine, and, indeed, during the operations of the -siege, the atmosphere was mild for the season of the year, although -sometimes frosty of a morning. - -The division bivouacked for some hours two miles from the town. -When the darkness had set in, three hundred soldiers drawn from the -43d, 52d, and the rifle corps, moved under the command of Colonel -Colborne[14], to assault the fort of Francisco. The enemy fired about -two rounds; our good troops did not allow more time, and the fort was -taken. It was situated on a rising ground, six hundred yards from the -town, was of a square form, with two small howitzers, "_en barbette_," -and had a garrison of two officers and forty soldiers, who were made -prisoners. Six or eight others either were killed or escaped into the -town, where the drums began to beat to arms, and a furious fire of shot -and shell opened on us, while digging a parallel close to the captured -fort; the earth being thrown up on the town side. The land is arable, -and bestrewn with loose stones, which were flying on all sides from the -impulse given by the cannon balls, and the bursting of shells, which -were exploding on every side, killing and maiming many soldiers. - -The great convent of Saint Francisco, in the suburb, was carried a -few days before the storming of the town, and also the ruined convent -of Santa Cruz. On the morning of the 14th, about five hundred French -soldiers made a sortie from the city, and before they retired were -very nearly succeeding in entering the batteries, where the battering -cannon had been placed the night before. The twenty-four pounders were -of iron, mounted like field guns, on handsome carriages, painted lead -colour. - -An hour before dark on this day, the batteries opened within six -hundred yards of the ramparts for the purpose of battering in breach. -The first, third, fourth, and light divisions, employed in the siege -moved by turns from their cantonments, each taking a twenty-four hours' -spell.[15] - -On the 19th of January, the light division was ordered to the assault -out of its turn. During the greater part of the day we remained cooking -behind the convent of the Norbortins, a most splendid ruin, with very -extensive cloisters, situated close on the right bank of the Agueda, -three miles S. E. of the town. Soon after three o'clock we moved -towards the ground occupied by the foot guards, who were halted one -mile and a half from the suburbs of Ciudad Rodrigo. These troops came -forward to wish us success, and our band struck up the _fall of Paris_. -The third division occupied the trenches, and the garrison must have -observed the march of the light division from the ramparts,—extra -troops! The governor should have pondered on it! If he had kept a sharp -look-out, he must have been expecting the assault. - -There were two breaches effected in the walls of this town. By the -small breach the large one was taken in reverse. - -At half-past six o'clock the light division was formed behind the -convent of Saint Francisco, near the suburb, and almost exactly -opposite to the small breach, and about four hundred yards from it. The -third division, under General Sir Thomas Picton, was also formed behind -the ruins of Santa Cruz, and in the trenches opposite the large breach. -All was silent, four or five shells excepted, which were thrown by the -enemy into our left battery, and fell not a great distance from our -column. Now, if the governor thought that the assault was preparing, he -ought not to have fired at all from the ramparts, as it prevented the -approach of the troops from being discovered by the ear. - -I heard the town-clock strike seven, and at the same time saw a match -lighted in one of the embrasures—(very awful!) at that moment the -"forlorn hope," headed by Lieut. Gurwood, of the 52d, and the storming -party (composed of three hundred soldiers, with a proportion of -officers) moved on, carrying a number of bags, filled with dried grass, -to lessen the depth of the _fausse braie_ and the ditch. In a few -minutes they were on the brink of the ditch, and the fire of the town -opened briskly on them. There was a sort of check, but no longer than -might be expected, as they had to scramble in and out of the _fausse -braie_, and then to jump into the dry ditch; but having gone too far -to the left, the advance got on the wrong side of the tower, which was -not breached, and the soldiers, for a few seconds, were knocking with -the butt-ends of their fire locks against the wall, crying out "Where's -the breach?" for although the enemy were firing rapidly from the top of -the wall, still the troops, on first descending to the bottom of the -ditch, were in total darkness. This state of suspense lasted, however, -a very short time, for two soldiers, stumbling on the loose rubbish, -called out "Here's the breach," and Lieut. Gurwood[16] led up it; but -the French swore they should not enter, and fought most desperately on -the crest of the breach, throwing down large stones and missiles, and -keeping up a most deadly fire. Here many brave officers and soldiers -fell. General Craufurd received a mortal wound, and fell into his -aide-de-camp's arms, on the glacis, while cheering on the main body -of the division. Major General Vandeleur and Colonel Colborne were -wounded. How the troops contrived to force the breach I know not: I can -only say that it was well done. The breach was exceedingly steep: about -five yards wide at the top, having a cannon, of heavy calibre, placed -sideways, to block up the passage; however, there was a clear yard from -the muzzle of the gun to the wall, a sufficient space for one or two -soldiers to enter at a time, besides those who could pass underneath -the muzzle of the gun, or over the wheels of the carriage. - -The moment the division entered, a number of soldiers rushed to the -right, along the ramparts, to the large breach (_one hundred and fifty -yards_), and then engaging those of the French who were still firing -on the third division, absolutely drove them over the breast-work, on -to the large breach. At this time a wooden spare magazine, placed on -the rampart, exploded, and blew up some French grenadiers, and many -of the light division. Lieutenant Pattenson, of the 43d, and Lieut. -Uniacke, of the rifle corps, were of the number. This occurred just -behind the traverse, which, on the enemy's right, confined and guarded -the great breach. - -On ascending the small breach, directly after it was carried, I found -myself with the crowd. Lieut.-Colonel M'Leod managed to collect, with -the assistance of some other officers, on the rampart about two hundred -soldiers of our regiment, and was exhorting them to keep together. At -this time there was not any firing on us, with the exception of a few -stray shots from the opposite buildings; but there was sharp musketry -still at the great breach. - -I ran towards the large breach, and met an officer slowly walking -between two soldiers of the rifle corps. I asked who it was, when he -faintly replied, "Uniacke[17]," and walked on. One of his eyes was -blown out, and the flesh was torn off his arms and legs. He had taken -chocolate, with our mess, an hour and a half before! - -The regiment was now formed, and Colonel M'Leod immediately detached -officers with guards, to take possession of all the stores they could -find, and to preserve order. These parties ultimately dissolved -themselves. If they had not done so, they would have been engaged in -the streets with our own troops. - -Colonel M'Leod caused Lieutenant Madden, of the 43d, to descend the -small breach with twenty-five men, ordering him to continue at the -foot of it during the night, and to prevent soldiers leaving the town -with plunder. At eleven o'clock I went to see him; he had no sinecure, -and had very judiciously made a large fire, which, of course, showed -the delinquents to perfection, who were attempting to quit the town -with plunder, in the garb of friars, nuns, or enveloped in silk -counterpanes, or loaded with silver forks, spoons, and church plate, -all of which was of course taken from them, and was piled up, to hand -over to the proper authorities on the following day. He told me that no -masquerade could, in point of costume and grotesque figures, rival the -characters he stripped that night. - -The fire was large, and surrounded by the dead bodies of those who fell -in the first onset at the foot of the breach. The troops must have -rushed up and taken the latter without hesitation: had the governor -of the town only placed a few obstacles on the crest of the breach, -he must have stopped the entrance of the light division altogether. -He had time, as the firing from our batteries ceased two hours before -the assault, and then from the rampart there was a gentle slope into -the town, leading into a narrow lane, which was blocked up with a cart -only, leaving a sufficient space for one person to pass at a time. The -Governor was most culpable! There was no musquetry from any part of -the ramparts until the head of the light division column was close to -the small breach.—Amongst others lay Captain Dobbs, of the 52d, on -his back, at the foot of the breach, and stripped of his uniform. An -officer at first thought he was a Frenchman, who had tumbled headlong -during the strife from the top of the breach; but, while he was holding -a piece of lighted wood, to contemplate, with admiration, his extremely -placid and handsome countenance, even in death, a captain of the 52d -knew it to be the body of poor Dobbs. On lifting him up, the blood -flowed copiously from his back, a musket ball having entered at the -breast, and passed through his body.—A soldier of the third division -came up to me and said, "Captain Hardyman, of the 45th, is killed!" for -although three generals and seventy other officers had fallen, yet the -soldiers fresh from the strife talked of him; and if a soldier's praise -can add to a man's fame, certainly no one had a greater share than -Hardyman; he was the real type of a soldier, and kind to every one. - -When the troops had sipped the wine and the Cogniac brandy in the -stores, the extreme disorders commenced. To restore order was -impossible; a whole division could not have done it. Three or four -large houses were on fire, two of them were in the market-place, and -the town was illuminated by the flames. The soldiers were drunk, and -many of them for amusement were firing from the windows into the -streets. I was talking to the regimental barber, private Evans, in the -square, when a ball passed through his head. This was at one o'clock -in the morning. He fell at my feet dead, and his brains lay on the -pavement. I then sought shelter, and found Colonel M'Leod with a few -officers in a large house, where we remained until daylight. I did not -enter any other house in Ciudad Rodrigo; and if I had not seen, I never -could have supposed that British soldiers would become so wild and -furious. It was quite alarming to meet groups of them in the streets, -flushed as they were with drink, and desperate in mischief. - -On the morning of the 20th the scene was dreary; the fires just going -out; and about the streets were lying the corpses of many men who had -met their death hours after the town had been taken. At eleven o'clock, -I went to look at the great breach. The ascent was not so steep as -that of the small one, but there was a traverse thrown up at each side -of it on the rampart; hence there was no way into the town, as the wall -was quite perpendicular behind the breach. When the third division -had gained the top of the rampart, they were in a manner enclosed and -hemmed in, and had no where to go, while the enemy continued to fire -upon them from some old ruined houses, only twenty yards distant. - -I counted more than sixty-three soldiers of the third division lying -dead on the _terre-plein_ of the rampart exactly between the traverses -I have already described. I did not see one dead soldier of that -division on the French side of those traverses; but I saw some of the -light division. - -I saw General M'Kinnon lying dead on his back, just under the rampart, -on the inside, that is, the town side. He was stripped of every thing -except his shirt and blue pantaloons; even his boots were taken off. -He was a tall thin man. There were no others dead near him, and he -was not on the French side of the traverse either, nor was there any -possibility of getting at the General without a ladder, or traversing -a considerable distance along the ramparts to descend into the town, -and then passing through several narrow lanes, ruined houses, and over -broken stone walls being a distance of at least a quarter of a mile, -and what no human being could have accomplished during the night. It is -said that he was blown up. I should say not. There was no appearance -indicating that such had been his fate. Neither the state of his skin -nor the posture in which he was lying, led me to think it. When a man -is blown up, his hands and face, I should think, could not escape. I -never saw any whose face was not scorched. M'Kinnon's was pale, and -free from the marks of fire. How strange, that with the exception -of the General, I did not see a soldier of the third division who -had been stripped! Neither was there any officer among the dead, or -else they had been carried away. I should not wonder, (if it is not -uncharitable,) that the General had been killed with all the others -between the traverses, and that some _tender-hearted_, follower of the -army had taken his clothes off, and then just given him a hand over the -wall, and so placed him in the position described. - -The two divisions attacked without knapsacks. The greater portion -of the light division lay at the foot of the _small breach_ in the -ditch; hence it was that they fought on the slope, and rolled down in -succession as they were killed; but, on gaining the ramparts (there -being no interior defences) they followed the French right and left, -who retreated, panic-struck, into the interior of the city, keeping -up, however, a running fire from the different streets, or the massive -stone buildings. - -The third division, at the first onset, were fired on from the parapets -of the ramparts, and assailed by missiles and live shells, which were -rolled from the summit of the wall: but the enemy did not stand on the -crest of the great breach to oppose their ascent; for, if they had, it -would have been impossible to escape behind their traverses. The enemy -had left a space for one man to pass at a time, on the left of the -right traverse, but expecting the attack, they had previously blocked -it up with barrels filled with earth, having placed others behind to -stand on for the purpose of firing over them. Before the morning, all -these barrels, except one, were thrown down the scarped wall. The -fact is, that the third division mounted to the _terre-plein_ with -facility; but when on the rampart, they were fired on in front and both -flanks, as before described, and in this small space, they suffered a -tremendous loss of nearly five hundred heroic officers and soldiers. -During the fighting, their dead and wounded were piled one on the top -of the other, crying out in agony as they were trampled upon, and -impeding the progress of others, who exerted themselves in vain amongst -such havoc to carry the traverses. - -The moment the wooden magazine blew up, all firing nearly ceased, -for the enemy literally jumped over the right entrenchment on to the -_terre-plein_ of the great breach, to save themselves from the bayonets -of the light division. A young Italian officer there seized Captain -Hopkins, of the 43rd, round the neck, and implored his life. - -At about eleven o'clock in the morning (of the 20th) the great -explosion took place a few yards to the right of the _small breach_, -blowing up the _terre-plein_ of the rampart, four yards in breadth -and ten in length. This fatal explosion (which was accidental, owing -to some sparks of fire igniting some barrels of gunpowder in a -casement,) happened while the French garrison were marching out of -the city by the _small breach_, which had become so hard, owing to -such numbers of soldiers walking up and down it, as to make the ascent -nearly impracticable. The French, as well as the British soldiers, -were carried up into the air, or jammed amongst the rubbish, some -with heads, arms, or legs sticking out of the earth. I saw one of the -unfortunate soldiers in a blanket, with his _face_, _head_, and _body_, -as black as a coal, and cased in a black substance like a shell; his -features were no longer distinguishable, and all the hair was singed -from off his head, but still the unfortunate man was alive. How long he -lived in this horrible situation I cannot say. - -A tall athletic soldier of the 52d lay amongst the dead at the foot of -the breach, on his back; his arms and legs being at their full extent. -The top of his head, from the forehead to the back part of his skull, -was split in twain, and the cavity of the head entirely emptied of the -brains, as if a hand-grenade had exploded within, and expanded the -skull, till it had forced it into a separation with the parts ragged -like a saw, leaving a gaping aperture nine inches in length, and four -in breadth. For a considerable time I looked on this horrible fracture, -to define, if possible, by what missile or instrument so wonderful a -wound could have been inflicted; but without being able to come to any -conclusion as to the probable cause. - -From this place I walked to the convent of Saint Francisco to see a -wounded friend. The interior was crowded with wounded soldiers lying on -the hard pavement. A soldier of the third division was sitting against -a pillar, his head bent forward, and his chin resting on his breast, -his eyes open, and an agreeable smile on his countenance. For half a -minute I stopped with surprise to observe him sitting in so contented -a posture, surrounded by the groans of his companions. At length, I -addressed him, but, no answer being returned, I called a doctor, under -the impression that the man was delirious. On the contrary, we found he -was quite dead. - -In the afternoon we returned to our quarters by regiments across the -stone bridge, having been relieved by the fifth division, which came -from the rear, and took charge of the city. - -A few days after the assault, most of the officers of the light -division attended General Craufurd's funeral. He was buried under the -wall near the small breach. - -In a few days we moved from La Encina to El Bodon, where our principal -amusement consisted in playing at rackets, with wooden bats, against -the side of the church, or riding about the country. - -One day we visited the heights about half a league from this place, -where, on the previous September, a brigade of the third division had -been engaged. Many skeletons of the French horses lay in deep ravines, -or on the shelvings of rocks, to the very summit of the ridge, on -the crest of which some of the Portuguese gunners were cut down; and -where for a short time the cannon remained in the hands of the enemy. -It must have been at this moment that the second battalion of the -fifth regiment retook them by charging in line, before the enemy's -cavalry had time to form. I rode up the ragged ground myself with -the utmost difficulty; the ground near the summit was so steep that -the Portuguese, while throwing balls into the valley, could not see -the advance of the French cavalry until quite upon them. Not that I -wish to detract from the deserts of the Portuguese; but, as it has -been stated that they stood to their guns to the last, I only wish to -demonstrate how it happened. The very print of the wheels of the cannon -were still indented in the ground, and showed, to an inch, where they -had stood. - -The whole of the dead French soldiers lying in the valley were -stripped, and in a perfect state of preservation, blanched like -parchment by the alternate rain and sunshine; and their skins had -become so hard, that the bodies on being touched sounded like a drum. -The vultures had picked the bones of the horses perfectly clean, but -had left the soldiers untouched; and, although _four months_ had -elapsed since they had fallen, their features were as perfect as on -the day they were killed. Some of these soldiers were gracefully -proportioned, and extended in every possible attitude. - -The rubbish of the breaches at Ciudad Rodrigo having been cleared away, -the parapets built up with gabions and fascines, all the trenches -filled up, and a garrison of Spanish soldiers left for its defence—at -the latter end of February we marched towards Badajoz, for the purpose -of laying siege to that fortress, a distance of one hundred and sixty -miles, the road more than half way lying through the rocky provinces -of Portugal, where the villages are generally built on the tops of the -highest mountains, with the remains of Moorish castles, or towers, -studding the wildest rocks and the most tremendous precipices. - -We remained a week at Castello de Vida, then resumed our march, and, -on the 16th of March, entered Elvas, the principal fortress on the -frontier of the Alentéjo, three leagues distant from Badajoz. It is -situated on a hill, flanked on the right by a fort or citadel, half a -mile without its walls, and on the left by the fort La Lippe, which -stands on a scarped hill, a mile from the town. - -While quartering off the soldiers, I observed a very pretty young lady -looking out of a casement, which occasioned her house to be selected -for our quarter. In the evening, myself and messmate were invited to -take chocolate and sweetmeats with the family; and, before retiring, -the good old _Senhora_ remarked our youthful appearance, and begged -that, should either of us be wounded, we would come to her house. My -companion was subsequently shot through the body, and, being conveyed -back to Elvas, the mother and daughter kindly watched over him until he -was perfectly recovered. - -[Footnote 14: Now Major General Sir John Colborne.] - -[Footnote 15: During the siege, the enemy threw a vast quantity of -shells. One night two mortars kept up an incessant discharge; and -the soldiers called out "Here comes a shell from _big Tom_; and here -comes another from _little Tom_." All the cannon shot that flew over -our trenches lodged on a hill one mile north of the town, at the base -of which was a _spring_, where I saw a soldier killed while stooping -down to fill his canteen with water. This hill, owing to its being -so ploughed up with balls, was familiarly named by the soldiers -_plumb-pudding hill_.] - -[Footnote 16: Lieutenant Gurwood took the governor of the fortress -prisoner.] - -[Footnote 17: He died in excruciating agony.] - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - March from Elvas to Badajoz—Defences of that city—The - investment—A sortie—Operations of the batteries—Capture of - fort Picurina—Preparations for the grand assault—Advance of the - "forlorn hope"—Desperate encounter at the breaches—Loss of life - experienced by the British—The mode of attack changed to escalade - with success—The city sacked by the British troops—Reflections - respecting the conduct of the siege—Incidental anecdotes. - - -On the morning of the 17th of March we formed contiguous columns, -outside the walls of Elvas, and entering a spacious plain, passed the -river Guadiana by a pontoon bridge, a few miles below Badajoz, which -was garrisoned by nearly five thousand French soldiers. It is situated -on the margin of the left bank of the Guadiana, in the province of -Estremadura, in Spain, and encompassed by an open country, without a -tree, a shrub, or even a hut to be seen without its walls. The ramparts -are about two miles in circumference, and were protected by the forts -San Cristoval, Napoleon, and the _Tête de Pont_, at the head of the -fine stone bridge, which communicates with the right bank of the -Guadiana. - -The fort Picurina, the outworks of Pardalaras, and the _lunette_ of -Saint Roque, constituted the general outworks of the city, on the left -bank of the river. - -As we drew near the ramparts of the fortress, we saw the flag of _three -colours_ majestically waving on the top of the great lofty square -tower, in the centre of the old castle, which stands on the summit of -a hill, whose frowning battlements overhang the town, and overlook the -adjacent plains for a considerable distance. - -The third, fourth, and light divisions invested the city on the left -bank of the Guadiana[18]. - -Our division bivouacked within one mile and a half S.S.W. of the town, -our position communicating in a manner with the bridge of boats. The -day was fine; but at six o'clock in the evening the rain began to fall -in torrents, and continued the whole night, which prevented the enemy -hearing the troops when they commenced the first parallel, and the -latter continued to work all night without being molested. - -Before daylight on the 18th, the parties fell in to relieve those of -our division who had first broke ground, a thousand yards S. E. of the -town; we had to make a quarter circle, which rendered the march nearly -three miles to the mouth of the trench, where we arrived at daybreak, -and I saw the first shot; it was fired from the Fort Picurina, and -killed two poor fellows in the covering party of the fourth division, -which was formed under the slope of a hill. In a few minutes the -round shot came up the road quite often enough to put our blood into -circulation; and we immediately took our station under a small natural -rise of ground, where we remained covering the workmen for twelve -hours. The cannonade was pretty regular during the day, both from the -town and from Fort Picurina. - -We returned to camp an hour after dark, and I was surprised to find the -division had been supplied with Portuguese tents. I found my friend -waiting in one for me, and the canteens laid out with all the affection -of a youthful soldier. I had been exposed in the rain for twenty-five -hours, and this was one of the happiest moments of my life. - -On the 19th, at mid-day, the firing from the town was very heavy; every -one in the best position for security, which it was not difficult to -obtain, as the trenches were well advanced, but every body cried "Keep -down," for which truly there was no occasion. Notwithstanding this -cry, Israel Wild, and another man of our regiment, who was afterwards -killed, (a splendid soldier,) got on the top of the trench. I caught -hold of Israel's[19] jacket, to pull him down, but he turned round, -and said, in a most furious manner, "We know what we are about;" then -looking forward for a moment, shouted, with an oath, that the French -were coming on, and instantly sprung out of the trench like a tiger, -following his comrade, just such another fine fellow. Two or three -French dragoons at that instant fired their pistols into the trenches, -having approached within a few yards without being perceived. We had -just entered the mouth of the first parallel, and all joined in a -simultaneous attack on the enemy's infantry, without regard to trenches -or any thing else. The French being beaten out of the advanced lines, -retired and formed line under the castle, having two field-pieces on -their left flank. I cannot say how they entered the town, there was so -much smoke covering them, when near the walls. _General Philippon knew -his business well._ Fourteen hundred men came out—two battalions. - -We had quite abandoned the trenches, and approached near to the castle. -I perceived two soldiers of another division, who were stretched -close to where I stood: one was quite dead, a round shot having -passed through his body; the other had lost a leg, his eyelids were -closed, and he was apparently dead. An adventurous Portuguese began to -disincumber him of his clothes. The poor soldier opened his eyes and -looked in the most imploring manner, while the villain had him by the -belts, lifting him up. I gave the humane Portuguese a blow with the -back of my sabre, that laid him prostrate for a time, by the side of -the soldier he was stripping. - -I know not what became of the wounded man, as my attention was -attracted by an extraordinary circumstance. I saw a heavy shot hopping -along, till it struck a soldier on the hip; down he went, motionless. I -felt confident that the wounded man was not dead, and begged that some -of his comrades would carry him off to the rear, (we were now retiring -under a heavy cannonade); my words were at first unheeded, but two -soldiers, at the risk of their lives, rushed back, and brought him in, -or he, with many others, would have been starved to death, between our -lines and the ramparts of the town. His hip was only grazed, and his -clothes untorn; but, of course, he was unable to walk, and seemed to -feel much pain, for he groaned heavily. - -The sortie took place about a quarter after twelve; (_military time, -quite correct_;) we were filing into the trenches. The day was fine, -and the time well selected by the governor, as he concluded that the -front parallel would be vacant while the relief was coming in; but -there was an order against that. - -The trenches were very extensive. The weather again became bad, and -our right battery was silenced; but when the great breaching battery -was completed, it fired salvos, which the enemy returned in a similar -manner from a battery just under the castle-gate, on a commanding -situation. One morning, at daylight, the enemy brought a light gun out -of the town to enfilade the right of the front parallel; but as the -relief came in at the time, I do not know the sequel of it. - -The left of our lines, previously to the escalade of Picurina, ran -within about a hundred yards parallel to it. One hundred of our -regiment were employed one night on the delightful job of carrying the -trenches across the Seville road. We commenced at the distance of one -hundred and fifty yards from the fort. The instant the enemy heard -the pickaxes striking on the hard road, they opened, when, strange to -relate, eleven rounds of grape were poured on us, and yet only one -officer was hit. The gunners could not depress their artillery so as to -cover the spot we were on. - -I was surprised that they used no musketry; but I imagine they had -orders not to do so at night, unless an attempt was made to escalade -the fort. - -Picurina was situated on a rising ground, without the least appearance -of strength. Three hundred of the enemy formed the garrison, and -latterly they were obliged to block up their embrasures with sand-bags, -to screen themselves from the musketry of our lines; now and then they -cleared away to fire grape shot. - -Towards the end of the siege the weather became beautiful. One day in -particular, the enemy scarcely fired a shot, all our troubles were -forgotten, and two or three of us amused ourselves by reading a novel -in the trenches. - -Lieutenant Wilkinson,[20] was among the wounded on that day. There was -a path across a field, which communicated with our grand battery, and -an order forbade any person to cross it in the day-time, as the French -were continually firing small arms whenever any lazy-fellow took that -road. Poor little Wilky's curiosity was excited; he made a start out of -fun, was just entering the battery, when alas! he fell, shot through -the thigh. - -On the night of the 25th, a part of the third division, and also one -hundred of the light division, carrying ladders, assailed Picurina, -directed by General Sir James Kempt, and for a long time without -success: no wonder! The ditch was terrifically deep, and narrow at the -bottom. The soldiers walked round the fort, prying into all corners, -and got upon the gate, which they broke down, and then entered, -bayonets in advance. The French grenadiers would not give in—a -desperate bayonetting took place, and much blood was spilt; already -five hundred French soldiers from the town were at hand. The struggle -continued with hard fighting, inside and outside of the fort. The enemy -wished to vie with their comrades who had defended Fort St. Christoval -at the former siege. Victory was some minutes doubtful; at length the -fort was taken, and the reinforcements were beaten back into the town. -I was sitting at the door of my tent, and witnessed all the firing. - -The garrison of Badajoz fired every morning, for a few days previously -to the grand assault, a certain number of rounds, as if for practice, -and to measure the ground. - -The first order for storming the breaches fixed it to take place on the -5th of April. I was informed that my turn for trench duty fell on that -evening, because the officer just preceding me was out of the way. I -resolved to play a like trick, and for a like reason, namely, not to -miss the assault. I therefore got a friend to persuade the Adjutant to -allow that the men should march off without me, promising to follow. This -anecdote I relate, because of the curious circumstance that it led to. - -When I was quite certain that the assault was not to take place that -night, I mounted my horse, and, riding to the entrance of the first -parallel, I gave the animal to my batman, and proceeded on foot. I had -just crossed the trench, and got into a field, taking a short cut, when -I observed two figures making towards me. There was not any firing; a -solemn silence reigned around. Coming up at a half run, I put my hand -to my sword, for the night was clear, and I saw they were not soldiers; -they soon closed on me, demanding boldly, and in Spanish, the way -out of the trenches: I pointed out the road to them, but, an instant -after, suspected they were not _Spaniards_, but spies. I noticed they -kept their hands behind them, and I thought it also very _civil_ of -them not to fire, for I am confident they were well armed. "_Buenas -noches, Señor_," said they, and hastily retired. When I reached the -great battery, and found every body in it asleep, I thought the place -bewitched. This was my last trip to the trenches. Thirteen times I -visited them during the siege. - -A long order was issued relative to the positions the troops were to -occupy. On the 6th of April, the day was fine, and all the soldiers in -good spirits, cleaning themselves as if for a review. About two o'clock -I saw Lieutenant Harvest of our regiment; he was sucking an orange, -and walking on a rising ground, alone, and very thoughtful. It gave me -pain, as I knew he was to lead the "forlorn hope". He observed, "My -mind is made up; I am sure to be killed[21]." - -At half-past eight o'clock that night the ranks were formed, and -the roll called in an under-tone. Lieutenant-Colonel M'Leod spoke -long and earnestly to the regiment before it joined the division, -expressing the utmost confidence in the result of the attack, and -finished by repeating, that he left it to the honour of all persons to -preserve discipline, and not to commit any cruelty on the defenceless -inhabitants of the town. - -The division drew up in the most profound silence behind the large -quarry, three hundred yards from the _three_ breaches, made in the -bastions of la Trinidad, and Santa Maria. A small stream separated -us from the fourth division. Suddenly, a voice was heard from that -direction, giving orders about ladders, so loud, that it might be -heard by the enemy on the ramparts. It was the only voice that broke -on the stillness of the moment; every body was indignant, and Colonel -M'Leod sent an officer to say that he would report the circumstance -to the General-in-Chief. I looked up the side of the quarry, fully -expecting to see the enemy come forth, and derange the plan of attack. -It was at half-past nine this happened, but, at a quarter before ten, -the ill-timed noise ceased, and nothing could be heard but the loud -croaking of the frogs. - -At ten a carcass was thrown from the town; this was a most beautiful -fire-work, and illuminated the ground for many hundred yards; two or -three fire-balls followed, and, falling in different directions, showed -a bright light, and remained burning. The stillness that followed was -the prelude to one of the strangest scenes that the imagination of man -can conceive. - -Soon after ten o'clock, a little whispering announced that "the forlorn -hope" were stealing forward, followed by the storming parties, composed -of three hundred men, (one hundred from each British regiment of -our division;) in two minutes the division followed[22]. One musket -shot, _no more_, was fired near the breaches by a French soldier, -who was on the look out. We gained ground leisurely—but silently; -there were no obstacles. The 52nd, 43rd, and part of the rifle corps, -closed gradually up to column of quarter distance, left in front; -all was hushed, and the town lay buried in gloom; the ladders were -placed on the edge of the ditch, when suddenly an explosion took -place at the foot of the breaches, and a burst of light disclosed the -whole scene:—the earth seemed to rock under us:—what a sight! The -ramparts crowded with the enemy—the French soldiers standing on the -parapets—the fourth division advancing rapidly in column of companies -on a quarter circle to our right, while the short-lived glare from the -barrels of powder and combustibles flying into the air, gave to friends -and foes a look as if both bodies of troops were laughing at each other. - -A tremendous firing now opened on us, and for an instant we were -stationary; but the troops were _no ways daunted_. The only three -ladders were placed down the scarp to descend into the ditch, and -were found exactly opposite the centre breach, and the whole division -rushed to the assault with amazing resolution. There was no check. The -soldiers flew down the ladders, and the cheering from both sides was -loud and full of confidence. - -While descending the ladders into the ditch, furious blows were -exchanged amongst the troops in their eagerness to get forward; at -the same time grape-shot and musketry tore open their ranks. The -first officer I happened to see down was Captain Fergusson, who had -led on our storming-party here, and at Rodrigo; he was lying to the -right of the ladders, with a wound on the head, and holding a bloody -handkerchief in his grasp[23]. I snatched it out of his hand, and tied -it round his head. The French were then handing over the fire-balls, -which produced a sort of revolving light. The ditch was very wide, -and when I arrived at the foot of the centre breach, eighty or ninety -men were formed. One cried out, "Who will lead?" This was the work of -a moment. Death, and the most dreadful sounds and cries encompassed -us. It was a volcano! Up we went; some killed, and others impaled on -the bayonets of their own comrades, or hurled headlong amongst the -outrageous crowd. - -The _chevaux-de-frise_ looked like innumerable bayonets. When within -a yard of the top, I fell from a blow that deprived me of sensation. -I only recollect feeling a soldier pulling me out of the water, where -so many men were drowned. I lost my cap, but still held my sword. On -recovering, I looked towards the breach. It was shining and empty! fire -balls were in plenty, and the French troops standing upon the walls, -taunting, and inviting our men to come up and try it again. - -Colonel M'Leod was killed while trying to force the left corner of the -large breach[24]. He received his mortal wound within three yards of -the enemy, just at the bottom of some nine-feet planks, studded with -nails, and hanging down the breach from under the _chevaux-de-frise_. - -At half-past eleven the firing slackened, and the French detached -soldiers from the breaches to repulse the other attacks, and to -endeavour to retake the castle. I heard the enemy calling out on the -ramparts in German, "All is well in Badajoz!" - -The British soldiers did as much as _men could do_. The wood-work -of the _chevaux-de-frise_ was ponderous, bristling with short stout -sword-blades fastened in it, and chained together. It was an obstacle -not to be removed, and the French soldiers stood close to it, killing -deliberately every man who approached it. The large breach was at one -time crowded with our brave troops; I mean the fourth division, the -heroes of many hard-fought victories and bloody fields. The light -division had recently been crowned with victory; but to remove such -obstacles was impracticable by living bodies, pushing against them up a -steep breach, and sinking to the knees every step in rubbish, while a -fearless enemy stood behind pushing down fragments of masonry and live -shells, and firing bullets, fixed on the top of pieces of wood, the -sides of which were indented with seven or eight _buck_ shot. - -Generals Picton, Colville, Kempt, Bowes, Hervey, Walker, Champlemond, -and almost every officer commanding regiments, besides more than three -hundred officers, and between four and five thousand gallant veteran -soldiers, fell around these walls. - -The left breach[25] had not been attempted at all until a quarter -before twelve o'clock, when Captain Shaw of our regiment[26], -collecting about seventy men of different regiments, and with great -difficulty, after such slaughter for two hours, made a desperate effort -to gain the top; but when half-way up, as if by enchantment, he stood -alone. Two rounds of grape and the musketry prevented any more trouble, -for almost the whole of the party lay stretched in various attitudes! - -Captain Nichols[27], of the Engineers, was of the number; he now showed -great courage; and when asked by Shaw, if he would try the left breach, -answered he would do any thing to succeed. A grape-shot went through -his lungs, and he died three days after. - -This attack was very daring. It was a forlorn hope, under accumulated -dangers; almost all the troops had retired[28], and, a few moments -before, a great alarm was excited by a cry from the heaps of wounded, -that the French were descending into the ditch. To exaggerate the -picture of this sanguinary strife is impossible:—the small groups -of soldiers seeking shelter from the cart-wheels, pieces of timber, -fire-balls, and other missiles hurled down upon them; the wounded -crawling past the fire-balls, many of them scorched and perfectly -black, and covered with mud, from having fallen into the _lunette_, -where three hundred soldiers were suffocated or drowned; and all this -time the French on the top of the parapets, jeering and cracking their -jokes, and deliberately picking off whom they chose. The troops lining -the glacis could not fire sufficiently, as they were terribly exposed, -and could scarcely live from the cross fire of grape-shot. - -Colonel Barnard[29] did all in his power to concentrate the different -attacks. It was in vain; the difficulties were too great. But Badajoz -was not the grave of the light division's valour, nor of the fourth -division's either. - -Philippon, the governor, a _Frenchman_, and our enemy, gave the full -particulars of this affair to a friend of mine, while travelling -in England; he said that he thought the great explosion would have -finished the business, but he was astonished at the resolution of the -British troops, who, he said, were fine fellows, and deserved a better -fate. - -The single musket-shot, fired just as the "forlorn hope" descended the -ditch, was a signal of their approach, which shows how determined the -French were to have a good blow-up, for not a ball was fired before -the explosion. The efforts of the garrison to preserve the place did -them much honour. Philippon was determined not to do as the governor -of Ciudad Rodrigo had done. Had not the Earl of Wellington planned the -two extreme attacks by escalade, on the castle, by the third division, -and on the south side of the town by part of the fifth division, and on -the Fort Pardalaras by the Portuguese, the result might have been very -serious. The Duke of Dalmatia was within a few leagues, and opposite -Generals Hill[30] and Graham[31]. The Duke of Ragusa had pushed his -advanced dragoons as far as the Bridge of Boats at Villa Velha, and -at length got entangled in the labyrinths of Portugal. I have heard -and read of sitting down before a town, _opening trenches, blowing up -the counterscarp, and all according to rule; but this was a crisis_, -time was precious, added to which the Guadiana ran in our rear, and -the pontoon bridge had been carried away once during the siege, by the -swelling of the river. - -When the French soldiers found that the town was falling by escalade -on the south side, and that the castle was lost to them, they made -an attempt to retake the latter by an old gate, leading towards the -town; that gate was pierced by their musketry in numberless places. -I never saw a target better covered with holes. The third division -had in return twice discharged a gun through it, which made two large -holes. An old handspike was placed under its breech to depress it, -and remained precisely in the same way three days afterwards. The -scaling-ladders were well placed, _five_ quite close together, against -an old round tower. Many slain soldiers had evidently been pushed from -off the parapet, and rolled nearly fifty yards down the hill; some lay -with heads battered to pieces, whilst others were doubled up, looking -scarcely human, and their broken limbs twisted in all directions. - -The third division had been obliged to cross the broken bridge over -the small river Revellas, rank entire, (amidst a shower of grape-shot, -bullets, and bursting of shells,) and during the work of death to -drag the unwieldy ladders up a rugged hill, to plant them against the -walls: their first effort failed; many of the enemy then, contrary to -General Philippon's orders, evacuated the Castle, and went to assist -at the breaches. At this moment, Lieutenant-Colonel Ridge of the fifth -regiment called on an officer of his corps, "There, you mount one -ladder, and I will lead up the other. Come on Fifth, I am sure that you -will follow your commanding officer." _He was killed; but the place was -carried!_ - -Let us pause and reflect that this act of heroism was executed after a -long and fearful struggle, high walls and defeat staring them in the -face. - -The third division then filled the castle, and there remained until day -light. On the south side of the town, General Walker's brigade of the -fifth division[32], hearing the rolling fire at the breaches, became -impatient, and, with a simultaneous rush, gained (by escalade) the -top of the walls, and even formed on the ramparts. On seeing a light, -the cry of a _mine_ was set up, and a short panic ensuing, the enemy -at the same time charging forward at a run with fixed bayonets and -shouting loudly, these troops were forced to give ground. An officer -informed me, that he had thrown himself over the ramparts to save the -colours of his corps, while nearly surrounded by French grenadiers. -This bold fellow had the choice of either being pinned to the wall, or -the risk of breaking his neck: he chose the latter. The rear regiment, -however, fortunately stood firm. Many of the enemy then precipitately -abandoned the town, accompanied by the Governor, crossed the bridge, -and shut themselves up in Fort St. Christoval, on the other side of the -Guadiana; and the next morning surrendered themselves prisoners of war. -This brigade continued to be _hotly_ engaged in the streets during the -_whole night_. Some even asserted, that many of the Spaniards fired -from their windows on our troops, and _held out lights_ to guide the -French; knowing that their property would fall a sacrifice, should the -town be taken. - -The place was eventually completely sacked by our troops; every atom -of furniture broken; mattresses ripped open in search of treasure; and -one street literally strewed with articles, knee-deep. A convent was in -flames, and the poor nuns in dishabille, striving to burrow themselves -into some place of security; however, that was impossible; the town was -alive, and every house filled with mad soldiers, from the cellar to the -once solitary garret. - -When I examined the three breaches by day, and witnessed the defences -the enemy had made for their protection, I was fully satisfied that -they were impregnable to men; and I do declare, most positively, that -I could not have surmounted the _chevaux-de-frise, even unopposed_, in -the day-time. - -Some _talk_ that grappling-irons would have moved them. Who would, -who could have done it? thousands of warlike French soldiers standing -firmly up to the points, not giving an inch, and ready for the fight. -They fought in the streets to the last, and tried to retake the -castle—_Que voulez-vous?_ - -The _chevaux-de-frise_ were fixed after dark. Round-shot alone could -have destroyed these defences, which were all chained together, and -not made in a temporary manner, as most military men imagine, but -strong and well finished; and the enemy, behind all, had made a deep -cut, over which they had thrown planks, communicating with the town, -besides three field-pieces to enfilade the centre breach, if the -_chevaux-de-frise_ should be seriously shaken. Had it not been for -this, the divisions would have entered like a swarm of bees. - -_One man only_ was at the top of the left breach (the heaps of -dead had, as a matter of course, rolled to the bottom), and that -was one of the rifle corps who had succeeded in getting under the -_chevaux-de-frise_. His head was battered to pieces, and his arms and -shoulders torn asunder with bayonet wounds. - -Our batteries did not play on the ramparts that night after dark; but -when the explosion took place, the whole of them opened with _blank -cartridge_ in our rear—probably to frighten the enemy, or to make them -keep down; but they were old soldiers, and not to be so done. - -Poor M'Leod, in his 27th year, was buried half a mile from the town, -on the south side, nearly opposite our camp, on the slope of a hill. -We did not like to take him to the miserable breach, where, from the -warmth of the weather, the dead soldiers had begun to turn, and their -blackened bodies had swollen enormously; we, therefore, laid him -amongst some young springing corn; and, with sorrowful hearts, six of -us (all that remained of the officers able to stand) saw him covered in -the earth. His cap, all muddy, was handed to me, I being without one, -with merely a handkerchief round my bruised head, one eye closed, and -also a slight wound in my leg. - -The country was open. The dead, the dying, and the wounded were -scattered abroad; some in tents, others exposed to the sun by day, -and the heavy dew at night. With considerable difficulty, I found at -length my friend, Lieutenant Madden, lying in a tent with his trowsers -on and his shirt off, covered with blood, bandaged across the body to -support his broken shoulder, laid on his back, and unable to move. He -asked for his brother.—"Why does he not come to see me?" I turned my -head away; for his gallant young brother (a captain of the 52nd) was -amongst the slain! - -Captain Merry, of the 52nd, was sitting on the ground sucking -an orange. He said, "How are you?—You see that _I_ am dying; a -mortification has ensued." A grape-shot had shattered his knee; and he -had told the doctor that he preferred death rather than to permit such -a _good leg_ to be amputated. Another officer had just breathed his -last between these two sufferers. - -The camp became a wilderness, some of the tents being thrown down, -others vacant, and flapping in the wind, while the musketry still -rattled in the town, announcing the wild rejoicing of our troops. - -[Footnote 18: Some Portuguese troops watched the right bank of the -river on the side of Portugal, but, during the latter end of the siege, -part of the fifth division under General Leith took that duty.] - -[Footnote 19: I have often been told, from undoubted authority, that -this soldier was one of the first who entered the small breach at -Rodrigo, and whose Stentorian voice rose above the din of arms.] - -[Footnote 20: He was mortally wounded at New Orleans, as Brigade-major, -while scrambling up the enemy's lines. His horse had been killed under -him. He was taken prisoner, and died raving mad from the agony of the -wound through his body.] - -[Footnote 21: He was killed; and his twin-brother, of the 52nd light -infantry, fell two years after at St. Sebastian, also at the head of -twenty-five volunteers from that regiment.] - -[Footnote 22: This was with the exception of the two regiments of -Portuguese Caçadores, who were left in reserve in the quarries; but -many of them afterwards came towards the breaches.] - -[Footnote 23: He had also two unhealed body wounds open, which he had -received at Rodrigo, and one in the trenches at Badajoz a few days -before. He now commands the 52nd regiment.] - -[Footnote 24: The right corner looking from the ramparts; but, as we -attacked, it was on the left.] - -[Footnote 25: There was a trench three feet wide and four deep, cut -between the centre and left breach, which was choked up with the dead -and wounded.] - -[Footnote 26: Now Lieut.-Colonel Shaw.] - -[Footnote 27: The engineer officers suffered terribly in killed and -wounded during the siege, as they joined in all the desperate attacks.] - -[Footnote 28: The fourth and light divisions retired at midnight from -the breaches; but many of the soldiers did not leave the ditch, being -unable to ascend the ladders owing to the heaps of dead and wounded. -The fourth division descended opposite the large breach by only two -ladders.] - -[Footnote 29: Now General Sir A. Barnard.] - -[Footnote 30: Now Lord Hill, commander-in-chief of the British army.] - -[Footnote 31: Now Lord Lynedoch.] - -[Footnote 32: The fifth division took the city of Badajoz, and the -third division the castle.] - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - Movements of the enemy after the fall of Badajoz—March - of the British light and third divisions towards Ciudad - Rodrigo—Dispositions for a fresh campaign—Excellent marching - arrangement of the light division—Occupation of Salamanca by - the British, and investment of the forts—Advance of the French - army—Skirmishing and cannonading—Surrender of the forts by the - French—English quarters at Rueda, and amusements there—Movements - of the author's division—A breakfast party broken up—Personal - escape of the commander-in-chief—Active manœuvres of the - contending forces—Retrograde movement of the British towards - Salamanca—Relative position of the two armies—Battle of - Salamanca. - - -The Duke of Dalmatia, on hearing of the fall of Badajoz, retraced his -steps towards Seville, followed by the British cavalry, under General -Sir S. Cotton[33]. - -On the 11th of April, the light and third divisions crossed the -fine stone bridge to the right bank of the Guadiana, and entered -Campo-Mayor. The march of the troops presented the most warlike -appearance. Many of the soldiers' blood-stained and torn uniforms -were discoloured from explosions; numbers of the soldiers held their -arms in slings, and carried their firelocks and caps slung on their -knapsacks; whilst others were seen with bandaged heads, or lame from -contusions through wounds inflicted by the iron-crows' feet with which -the enemy had strewed the ditch of Badajoz. In this manner did all -those gallant soldiers, who were able to join their ranks, trudge along -for ten days, for the purpose of chasing out of the province of Beira -the Duke of Ragusa, who now blockaded and threatened the fortresses -of Almeida and Ciudad Rodrigo. Every morning before day light we were -creeping over the rough, flinty, and winding roads along the _Cordon_ -of Portugal, until we reached the neighbourhood of Ciudad Rodrigo, from -which place the enemy had retired on our approach. - -On the 19th of May, General Sir R. Hill, with the second division, -attacked, and carried by escalade, and destroyed the forts Napoleon, -Ragusa, and the _Tête de Pont_, which guarded the bridge of boats -thrown across the Tagus near Almaraz in Spanish Estremadura. As the -summer came on, officers and soldiers rejoined us with wounds scarcely -healed; others arrived from England to fill up the vacant ranks. A -fresh campaign was in contemplation, and the officers from various -divisions of the army flocked merrily into Ciudad Rodrigo. - -On the 12th of June, the army crossed the river Agueda, the light -division leading the centre column. The march of the light division -was worthy of notice. The men were not tormented by unnecessary -parades—the march was their parade; that over, the soldiers (except -those on duty) made themselves happy, while those with sore feet, by -such a system, had rest, which enabled them to be with their comrades, -when, by a mistaken notion of discipline, it would have been otherwise: -their equipment was regularly examined, nor were the men on any -pretence permitted to overload themselves—one of the most serious -afflictions to an army. A general may be endowed with transcendant -abilities, and by a forced march place himself in a situation to -overthrow his enemies; he may possess the number of divisions, and the -number of regiments, but through internal bad management, half his -army may be straggling in the rear. Again, nothing is so pernicious as -keeping the soldiers under arms, while the officers are rambling about: -it destroys all _esprit_, causing the officers to forget the sufferings -of the men after a weary march, and creating feelings of dislike -towards them in the breasts of the soldiers. Such a system did not -exist in the light division; and when a young officer fell in action, -the old soldiers proffered their services with parental care. - -The baggage followed the line of march in succession. The mules of each -company were tied together, and conducted by two batmen in rotation, -right or left in front, according to the order of march. Each regiment -found an officer, and each brigade a captain to superintend. The -alarm-post for them in camp was on the reverse flank of respective -regiments. When the enemy were at hand, the baggage was ordered to the -rear,—the distance according to circumstances. - -The army was four days clearing the forest, which was clothed with -verdure, and supplied the most delightful bivouacks. The Sierra de Gata -lay on the right hand, covered with snow, while a cloudless sky formed -our canopy, and the sunshine of hope and happiness was beaming on every -countenance, not excepting those of the growling surly batmen, who were -seen to smile at finding forage at hand for their animals. - -On the fourth day the division encamped within two leagues of -Salamanca, and quite clear of the wood. The German hussars had an -affair on that day with the enemy's cavalry. The officers of hussars -described it to us, and related the conversation that took place -between them and the French dragoons stationed on picquet in front of -Salamanca. The enemy requested the Germans not to charge; the hussars -replied, while advancing, that if the French fired, they would. The -enemy then fired their carbines to stop their progress. The hussars -charged, and cut most of them down. - -The next morning we advanced, and pushed a body of the rifle corps to -feel their way through a village, near Salamanca, which they found to -be unoccupied by the enemy. The division then brought up their left -shoulders, and passed in open column of companies within cannon range -of the forts, situated on the right bank of the Tormes, and within a -short distance of the north side of the town. The enemy stood on the -ramparts to see us pass; the whole plain was covered by our cavalry -and infantry, crowding towards the ford of Santa Martha, where we -all forded the river, and bivouacked a short distance from the town. -The French army had retired, leaving eight hundred men to garrison -the three forts of St. Vincente, Gayetano, and Merced, that were -constructed with the masonry extracted from the different handsome -convents, monasteries, and colleges, which had been pulled down to be -converted into bastions. - -The sixth division took possession of Salamanca, and invested the -forts. Soon after we had taken up our ground, most of the officers -hurried into the town; the inhabitants appeared much rejoiced to see -us, and, as I entered, two ladies ran towards me, each seizing a hand. -My Rozinante dropped her head in search of food, as I believe she had -not enjoyed a feed that day, while I looked right and left, and thought -such congratulations very romantic. The _Señoras_, in black silk, put -numerous questions, few of which I could understand, nor am I confident -whether they were civil or military, although, from the expression of -their eyes, I concluded that they were on a _civil_ subject. I much -admired the female peasantry; they were healthy, well-made, with black -eyes, red lips, little feet, and wore red, yellow, and blue petticoats. - -Soon after, I ascended to the top of the cathedral, to reconnoitre the -forts, when I had a full view into the interior of them, and saw that -musketry might have been applied with effect from this point. I then -descended, and entered into the festivities and pleasures of the place. - -In the evening the town was illuminated, and resounded with music, -while the merry Spanish _muchachas_ were dancing boleros, and striking -their castanets in the streets. The glare of light was reflected from -the bright arms piled in the great square, surrounded by soldiers of -the sixth division, many of whom were destined soon to fall within a -few hundred yards of the fascinating scene. - -Our division advanced the next day, and took up its ground a league and -a half in front of Salamanca. On the 20th a staff officer rode up to a -group of us, and said, "The enemy are advancing." I rode up the side -of the position of St. Christoval, and descried them afar off in the -vast plain. The division then fell in, and were ordered to crown the -heights, which they did; and at the same time some Spanish regiments -came in our rear, with two pieces of cannon: the mules became restive; -some went one way, and some another—every way but the right: they -became entangled in their harness; some kicking, and others feeding on -the uncut corn, and, finally, during this mutiny of the mules a gun was -upset, and, rolling over the bank into the road, quite deranged the -dignity of the Spanish march. - -The different divisions of the army were now ascending the heights of -St. Christoval at many points. The French army continued to advance, -and soon after began to debouche from the different roads in order of -battle. The view was not obstructed; the country was level, covered -with a sheet of corn, as far as the eye could reach. To those fond of -military evolutions, the scene was bold; to those of more tranquil -habits, time was given to pray for the good of their own souls, and, -if charitably inclined, for the rest of the army. - -At first our division deployed on the left of the front line; then -again moved, and took post in the centre of the second line; the whole -army were deployed in two lines, to oppose the enemy, the cavalry to -the right, and also some detached on the left, to scour the plain -between us and Salamanca, where part of the sixth division remained -to cover the forts of that place. The whole army present consisted -of seven divisions, besides cavalry, artillery, the before-mentioned -Spaniards, and some Portuguese infantry. - -At five o'clock in the afternoon the French cavalry approached by the -valley to the left of our position, where our light dragoons began to -skirmish with them, and showed some disinclination to give ground; the -enemy brought up six guns, and opened on our squadrons in reserve, when -the dispute ended. - -Towards evening the French made an attack on part of the seventh -division, occupying a village at the base, and on the right of our -position; after some sharp work, it was carried by the enemy. A brisk -cannonade then took place to our right between the two armies. Night -put an end to the firing. The whole army slept on their arms in order -of battle, and after dark the picquets were placed at the foot of our -position. - -An hour before daybreak, the troops stood to their arms, fully -expecting to be attacked. The dark shades dispersed; the sun rose; both -armies tranquil, notwithstanding their proximity; the enemy were full -in view, without a bush, or any obstacle to prevent close quarters. -Their right was thrown back in _échelon_ of divisions. I suppose our -General-in-chief wished them to come a little nearer, but the Duke of -Ragusa was now cautious, for his army was inferior in numbers. - -Our position was covered with uncut corn, which served the cavalry -for forage, and the infantry for beds. The contending armies caused -great devastation, and trampled down the ripe wheat for miles around. -The river Tormes ran about two miles in our rear, with two fords. Our -division was now withdrawn from the line, and placed as a column of -reserve in rear and centre of the army: it protected the fords in our -rear, and might be used as a moveable mass either to resist cavalry, or -assist where required. - -The Earl of Wellington was stationary from morning till night, watching -the enemy, generally alone and on foot, at the crest of the hill, and -in the centre of the position. His staff approached him one at a time -to receive orders. At night the Earl slept on the ground, wrapped in -his cloak. - -The troops were much inconvenienced for want of water, as the river -was at some distance, and only a few men could be spared, since it was -impossible to know at what moment the enemy might not attack. Some -Spanish ladies came from Salamanca, and walked through our lines. On -the third night the French retired; our division took ground to the -right, and were posted on the bare and conical hill of Cabrerizos. It -appeared necessary that the forts and the command of the bridge at -Salamanca should be secured before we made any forward movement. The -Duke of Ragusa evidently wished to gain time, and to continue in the -vicinity to succour the forts, also to infuse courage into the little -garrisons, until his reinforcements should arrive. - -The Earl of Wellington remained on the hill of Cabrerizos the whole -day. The sun shone with great brilliancy, and it was burning hot. -One of the soldiers of the 43d put up a blanket to keep the rays of -the sun from his lordship. Our bivouac presented a droll appearance, -as the whole division had hoisted blankets in a similar manner. A -Spanish _muchacha_, with sandy hair, named Agueda, from the _pueblo_ -of Fuente de Guinaldo, who preferred the sound of the bugle-horn to -her domestic occupations, was the sole female to be seen amid the -sun-burnt soldiers, and the brilliant masses, that now covered hill and -dale, ready at a moment to deploy in battle array. The breaches at the -forts were now considered practicable. At about nine o'clock at night -the attack commenced; but after some time the firing became slack, and -I saw three rockets thrown up from the forts; they were immediately -answered by several rounds of artillery from the French army, on a -rising ground two leagues to our right, which instantly satisfied me -that the assault had not succeeded, and that it was done as a signal -that they were still at hand. - -On the morning of the 25th, at daylight, we heard some firing on -the other side of the Tormes during a dense fog, which at first -prevented the force of the enemy from being ascertained. The Earl of -Wellington would not move. The soldiers laughed, and said, "Oh, they -are only shaking their blankets on the other side of the water;" for -in heavy weather musketry produced sounds such as I have described. As -the fog cleared away, a few rounds of artillery took place; and the -General-in-Chief sent a sufficient body of troops by the ford in rear -of St. Christoval to meet the enemy. When the atmosphere cleared, we -saw about a division of the French moving towards Salamanca. They were -opposed by our heavy cavalry, which had been placed there to secure the -flank and rear of our army. - -At seven that evening, the French re-crossed, unmolested, to the right -bank of the Tormes, by a ford a league to our right. I did not consider -the movement a serious one, but merely as intended to encourage the -soldiers in the forts to hold out. - -On the 27th, St. Vincente being in flames, the enemy permitted our -troops to ascend the breaches without opposition. It was a sort of half -assault and half surrender. The troops in the other forts also laid -down their arms, having suffered severely; and only marched out three -hundred out of eight, their original force, and many of those scorched -by the flames, or otherwise hurt. - -The army now moved forward. Our division supported the cavalry, and -advanced towards Ruêda. On the 2d of July, Captain Bull's horse -artillery and the cavalry overtook the enemy's rear guard near that -place. Although the country appeared open, it was unfit for cavalry, as -it was intersected with small vines, the size of gooseberry-bushes. On -entering the town, I observed five of the French killed from the fire -of the six-pounders. - -The division bivouacked round the town; and the next morning we -moved about two leagues in advance, and rather to the left, where an -interchange of shots took place between the left of our army and the -enemy, near Pollos, who had no idea of permitting us to cross the Douro -at that time, as the French Marshal wished to maintain his line on that -river for the base of his future operations. We then returned, and took -up our quarters in Ruêda. Pay was issued, all of which we spent in -gaieties and _iced wines_. The inhabitants had all returned to their -dwellings. The mayor was informed that the officers would give a ball; -when he procured _Señoritas_, according to custom. It was extremely -pleasant, with waltzing, and all the fascinating mazes of the Spanish -country-dance in perfection. The Marquis of Worcester, and others of -the Earl of Wellington's staff attended. - -On the evening of the 16th July our division was ordered to quit Ruêda, -and marched the whole night over a dusty and arid country; and towards -morning we took up our ground near Castréjon. During this day the -Valencians (commonly called the lemonade-men) came into our bivouac, -the sure harbingers of the approach of the enemy. These men wear a -spiral cap, of felt or leather, and have jet black ringlets hanging -down each side of their dark olive faces; and their fierce black eyes -give them a noble expression of countenance. A white linen jacket is -thrown over the shoulder, and a red sash encircles their loins; they -also wear a white linen kilt, like our Highland soldiers, reaching to -the cap of the knee; the white half stockings are gartered under the -knee, which is bare; and hempen sandals are tied round the feet. They -carry a long tin can, strapped on their backs, cased in the bark of the -cork-tree, which keeps cool the lemonade with which they are filled. -These men generally marched with the French columns, and acted as spies -to both parties. Just before nightfall, the company was ordered a -quarter of a league to the front on picquet; the country was open, and, -as the cavalry passed, I heard a staff-officer giving orders, which led -me to suspect that the enemy were at hand. - -At break of day on the 18th, a few shots were exchanged to our right; -the firing increased, and the cheering might be distinctly heard at -intervals, as the sun rose above the horizon. - -Our dragoons became visible while retiring before the enemy's horse and -light artillery, which at intervals were blazing away. The scene was -sublime and beautiful. An officer said to me, "There will be a row this -day; however, we had better get our breakfast, as God knows _when_ we -shall have any thing to eat, unless we take advantage of the present -moment." The tea service being laid out, and a stubble fire kindled, -to warm the bottom of the kettle, we suddenly espied some squadrons of -French heavy dragoons in a valley to our right, pushing for the main -road at full trot. An absurd and ludicrous scene now took place. The -crockery was thrown into the hampers; also the kettle, half filled with -hot water; another officer, who had come to _déjeûne_ with us, from the -rear, all the while vociferating, "God bless me! you will not desert my -mule and hampers; they are worth four hundred dollars." In fact, to get -off seemed impossible; the company, however, formed column of sections, -and fixed bayonets, fully determined to cover the old mule, who went -off with a rare clatter, and we after him, in double-quick time. The -enemy were now within two hundred yards of us, brandishing their -swords, and calling out, when they suddenly drew up on seeing some of -our cavalry hovering on their right flank. A rivulet, with steep banks, -ran parallel with the road; but we soon found a ford, where we drew up, -intending to dispute the passage. The right brigade of our division -had moved forward, and had deployed to the succour of our dragoons -first engaged, about half a mile to our right. Soon after this, two -squadrons of our light dragoons formed on a rising ground, two hundred -yards from us, with two pieces of horse artillery on their right, when -about an equal number of French heavy cavalry, handsomely dressed, with -large fur caps, made rapidly towards them, our guns throwing round -shot at them during their advance. When they had arrived within one -hundred yards of our squadrons, they drew up to get wind, our dragoons -remaining stationary[34]. - -A French officer, the chef d'escadron, advanced and invited our people -to charge, to beguile a few moments, while his squadrons obtained a -little breathing time. He then held his sword on high, crying aloud, -"_Vive l'Empereur! en avant, Français!_" and rushed on single-handed, -followed by his men, and overthrowing our light dragoons. The guns had -fortunately limbered up, and the horse-artillery fought round them -with great spirit, the enemy trying to cut the traces, while the poor -drivers held down their heads, sticking their spurs into the horses' -sides with all their might, and passed the ford under cover of our -picquet. The Earl of Wellington was in the thick of it, and only -escaped with difficulty. He also crossed the ford, with his straight -sword drawn, at full speed, and smiling. I did not see his lordship -when the charge first took place, but he had a most narrow escape; and, -when he passed us, he had not any of his staff near him, and was quite -alone, with a ravine in his rear. - -A few stragglers of each party still continued engaged, and this -part of the affray took place within twenty yards of us. One of our -dragoons came to the water with a frightful wound; his jaw was entirely -separated from the upper part of his face, and hung on his breast; the -poor fellow made an effort to drink in that wretched condition. - -The round shot now flew in various directions; one spun through a -cottage behind us, and the shepherd ran out in great terror. The light -division now commenced its retreat from the vicinity of Castréjon. The -French had crossed the river Douro with reinforcements, and had made an -amazing march to take us in flank. We had only retrograded a short way, -when we obtained a view of the bulk of the French army, pushing forward -on a ridge of hills to our left. The first false attack had been made -at daylight on our right and in front, merely to draw all our force -to that point, while the Duke of Ragusa executed this movement. The -fourth division were retiring in mass, within range of the enemy's -fire, being critically situated in the valley, while the French cannon -rolled on the crest of the hills above, and poured in their shot with -effect on their right flank. - -Our division was obliquely to the rear, in column of quarter distance, -with fixed bayonets, ready to form square,[35] surrounded by large -bodies of our cavalry. To avoid an action seemed impossible. The -enemy's infantry were almost on the run, and we were marching away from -them as hard as we could. While the round shot from a flank fire flew -over us, a French division came running to engage and detain us until -others came up, and obliged us to abandon the road, and trample down -a tract of wheat. The heavy German cavalry drew close round us. The -country was open, and a vast sheet of corn enveloped us for many miles. -The men became much distressed, owing to the rapidity of the movements -and heat of the day. We were again enabled to regain the road (owing to -our numerical superiority of cavalry), which made a curve down a gentle -descent; and the men descried, at a short distance, a dirty meandering -stream, called the Guarena, near Castrillo. A buzz ran through the -ranks that water was at hand, and the soldiers were impelled forward, -with their eyes staring and mouths open; and when within fifty yards -of the stream, a general rush was made. I never saw the troops during -my service so thirsty. The discipline of the division was such, that -I have seen them pass clear water, unbroken, in the hottest weather, -suffering under fatigue known only to those under the weight of a -knapsack and accoutrements. - -All this took place under a cannonade, which had continued, at -intervals, for more than ten miles. This was following up with a -vengeance. We had no sooner crossed the river than some squadrons of -the enemy's cavalry galloped up a hill immediately overlooking us. The -division now moved more leisurely; and every one was aware that had our -cavalry given way, the division must have halted to repulse charges, -which would have given time for the French infantry to come up; and had -that been the case, the struggle must have been very sanguinary. Our -reserves now being at hand, we soon halted on a round hill, and showed -front. The fourth division did the same; when a brigade of the enemy, -covered with dust, came in contact with an equal number of the fourth -division; who, firing a volley, charged with the bayonet, and overthrew -the French in good style, taking many prisoners. - -The French army had done their best to overtake us, but became glad -of a halt as well as ourselves, and the firing ceased. We remained -stationary during the day, when I fell asleep; and after some time, -I suddenly awoke, with my lips glued together, and my person almost -roasted by the scorching rays of the sun; and actually crawled some -distance before I knew where I was. Dry biscuit was served out; but -we could not get any water until eleven at night, when I obtained a -draught of dirty water out of my batman's canteen; however, it cooled -my inside; and I believe that many hundreds dreamed that night of -limpid streams. - -On the 19th the troops stood to their arms an hour before daybreak; -but the enemy continued stationary, and well they might, as they -had made the previous night and day an enormous march to cut us off -in detail, according to the Duke of Ragusa's favourite expression; -however, at four o'clock in the afternoon the Earl of Wellington rode -up to Lieutenant Wilkinson of the 43d, who was on picquet, and said, -"What are the enemy doing?" Wilkinson replied, "The French are in -motion." The dust was flying upwards from behind the ridge of hills -in our front. The General-in-chief said, "Yes—to the right now;" and -ordered the first brigade of our division to make a corresponding -movement, by crossing a valley, to prolong our right. We ascended a -high hill, and formed on our original front, when the French army -issued from behind the hills, presenting a martial appearance, and a -grand display of moving squadrons, with brazen helmets, and a great -body of infantry flanked by their cannon. - -The river Guarena was nearly dried up, and was the only obstacle -between the contending armies, as the face of the country still -continued bare and hilly, without even a tree to be seen. The Duke of -Ragusa entered the valley to reconnoitre, surrounded by a numerous -staff, when two guns of our horse-artillery opened, and a ball struck -on the ground, and knocked up the dust in the very centre of the group, -without killing any one: they took the hint, and shifted their ground. - -Eight of the enemy's guns instantly began a heavy firing on our -brigade: the first shot struck an officer of the horse-artillery on -the side of his helmet, and displaced him from his horse; after a -short time the brigade went to the right about, to get out of range. -At that moment the Spaniards[36] attached to us simultaneously started -from the left of each regiment, and I do not recollect ever seeing -them afterwards: it was most ludicrous to witness the flight of these -patriots, in disorder, while our troops retired sloping their arms with -the utmost _sang-froid_. We soon halted, and faced about; the enemy's -guns ceased to play, and a large force of our light dragoons mounted -the hill in our rear, with sloped swords. Night coming on, we formed -columns in case of accidents. An officer and myself then stole down -the hill on horseback, in search of water for ourselves and animals: -having passed our advanced posts some distance, and hearing strange -voices, we looked at each other, and whispered that to go further would -be indiscreet, wherefore, rejoining the column, we wrapped ourselves -in our cloaks, and fell into a profound slumber, out of which we were -awakened by a great bustle and the trampling of horses. Word passed -to stand to our arms, and the Portuguese Caçadores fired some shots, -but I was so overcome by drowsiness, that I continued in a squatting -position, rubbing my eyes, too lazy to move. The confusion was caused -by two or three mules breaking their ropes, and becoming lively; not -unusual amongst such animals. - -On the 20th our division concentrated soon after daylight, and -descended into the plain of Velesa, where we observed our whole army -formed in a dense phalanx, ready to deploy in order of battle. The -French army were not in sight; however, it was evident they intended -to avail themselves of the high ground; a brigade of our cavalry had -pushed half way up the ridge, to entice them to show front, and to -develope their movements, as it appeared during the night they had -moved on a quarter circle, round our extreme right flank, and were -now pushing on, and trying to cut off our communications. The Duke of -Ragusa would not accept battle as long as he could gain ground without -it, unless we attacked at a disadvantage, as he seemed to be a perfect -master of the localities of the country. - -Our army, under all these circumstances, broke up, and began to -retreat, the different divisions arranged in such a manner, that, -should it become necessary, by wheeling to the left, they could show -front, and be ready to engage, the more particularly as both armies -were again moving parallel to each other; and in this order they -continued some leagues, and bivouacked. It became necessary for the -troops to cook with fires of stubble, as there was not any wood in the -neighbourhood. A brigade of Portuguese cavalry happened to be left at -some distance in the rear, and, as it slowly retired in line, presented -such an imposing _front to their own rear_, that, by mistake, an -artillery officer ordered them to be saluted by a couple of shot, which -unfortunately did some execution. - -On the 21st, two hours before daylight, we began our march, branching -off towards Salamanca, and took up our ground in the valley, below St. -Christoval, the enemy having moved on Alba de Tormes and its vicinity. -Toward evening, we fell in, and crossed the Tormes by a ford, under -the hill of Cabrerizos, and marched in the direction of Salamanca, the -river being on our right hand. Night approached, and a German hussar -passed us at full speed, and said, "_She's co-ming_," meaning the -French dragoons, who had pushed forward to the village of Calbarasa de -Abaxo. - -The atmosphere became now overspread with an unusual darkness; the -thunder began to roll, the lightning was vivid, and the rain fell in -torrents. During the storm a whole troop of horses galloped past at -full speed, without their riders, having broke loose from fright, -caused by the loud claps of thunder. Continuing our march, we soon -bivouacked about two miles from Salamanca, our left wing resting on the -Tormes, and in vain attempted to screen ourselves from the pelting of -the storm. However, the morning of the 22d broke beautiful and serene; -and at six o'clock we heard to our right, and about two miles to the -front, a brisk fire of small arms, which continued for an hour, and -then died away. The enemy had attacked the seventh division, in a wood -near the heights of Nuestra Señora de la Pena, to ascertain whether -the Earl of Wellington intended to give up Salamanca. A young officer -was washing his shirt in the Tormes when the order came to fall in at -eleven o'clock, and was under the necessity of putting it on wringing -wet. - -The light division advanced, and took up the ground which the seventh -division had occupied in the morning; the wood extended a short way to -our front. The division was formed in open column, concealed from a -small body of the enemy, who were stationed in small force half a mile -to our front, with two pieces of cannon, on some rocks, round the old -_quinta_ of Nuestra Señora de la Pena. From our situation we formed a -corps of reserve, communicating with the third division placed on the -top of the conical hill of Cabrerizos, on our extreme left, and rather -in advance of us, on the right bank of the Tormes. - -We had no sooner piled arms, than I began to look about me. A _Table -Mountain_, or rather one of _Los dos Arapiles_, was a short way to the -right, and a mile to the front, with a very large mass of troops formed -behind it, in contiguous columns, with one red regiment presenting -their front towards the enemy in _line_ at the top of it. Large bodies -of cavalry, the first, fourth, fifth, sixth, and seventh divisions -of infantry, with a proportion of artillery, composed the right and -centre of the army in the plain, towards Las Torres; also a corps -of _Spanish Patriots_. Placed thus, who could have thought that the -General-in-Chief intended that day to retreat? I _never did_. Nor could -I see the reason for it: it seemed advisable to beat the French before -_El Rey_ Joseph coming from Madrid, and General Chauvel, who, with a -reinforcement of cavalry and horse-artillery, had crossed the Duoro, -near Pollos, should make their appearance with additional forces. - -The arrangement of our troops was inimitable; _years_ could not have -improved it. Our right had been fairly turned since the 20th; the army -were presenting a new front, so that the _first_ or _last_, whichever -it may be termed, of military movements was to be effected, that is for -the contending armies to _change places_. The French could not attack -our left that day; if they had, the right of their army must have been -either surrounded or cut to pieces. The third division would have hung -on their flank, the light division would have engaged them in front, -the masses behind the Table Mountain could have debouched on either -side, while our cavalry, artillery, and the rest of the army, could -have moved forward, and attacked the left of the French in the plain, -which must have advanced to support such a movement. The Table Mountain -is the mark of the French marshal's discomfiture. Military men say the -French ought to have taken possession of it: but was their army up and -strong enough to maintain it? The advance of the enemy at six o'clock -in the morning was not that of their whole force: I should say, that -it was merely a _reconnaissance_; half a dozen squadrons of cavalry -and a division of infantry must not be taken for a whole army. Nor had -the French soldiers wings; for in justice to them, more could not have -been done by legs. The Duke of Ragusa might have had his army in hand, -and could have placed a corps of observation where his centre stood; -then towards evening manœuvred with his main body at a greater distance -from our right flank, and threatened to cut us off from Rodrigo, (and -thereby change positions with us) until nightfall; at the same time -keeping his communications open with Alba de Tormes, in the event of -his not deeming it advisable to follow up such a movement the next day. -At all events, the French general would have gained time, which was -precious to him, as reinforcements were on the road to join him. The -fact was, the French marshal was completely out-generalled: the Table -Mountain puzzled him; and the third division descending from Cabrerizos -at twelve o'clock, and raising clouds of dust as they passed along the -rear of our army[37], caused the Duke of Ragusa to imagine that we -were drawing off, which I am confident led him to take hasty measures, -forgetting that he had been manœuvring only on _blank_ ground the four -previous days. The Earl of Wellington saw his over haste and his error; -knowing that to support such an extension of the left, the enemy ought -to have advanced in force on the village of the Arapiles, or that they -must expose their left to a flank attack, which they did. On the other -hand, had they advanced towards the Arapiles in the plain in force, our -right and centre would have become engaged, and the troops concealed -behind the Table Mountain could have debouched, and hovered on their -right flank. - -This was the first _general action_ fought on the Peninsula, where -the Earl of Wellington _attacked_; which led the French marshal still -farther from his reckoning. The General-in-Chief, of course, did not -wish to fritter away his army in useless skirmishes, and therefore only -waited for a _fit moment_ to bring it fairly in contact with the enemy, -to _finish_ well when once commenced; and as the Duke of Ragusa brought -himself to action within the precincts of Salamanca, the advantage was -ours, the wounded soldiers having speedy assistance, while those of -the enemy who managed to drag themselves far from the field, endured -the most distressing privations. The French were formed on the heights -behind the village of the Arapiles, with an extensive forest in their -rear. - -The field of battle generally was composed of light sand, with a few -straggling blades of parched grass. A very light breeze blew towards -the French, which gave them the benefit of the clouds of dust and -the volumes of smoke arising from the immense masses in motion, -notwithstanding the heavy rain on the preceding night. Near one P. M. -the third division were passing in rear of ours. I was strolling about, -here and there coming across a dead or wounded soldier of those who had -fallen in the morning, when a Portuguese caught my attention. He was -resting on his elbows with his legs extended, suffering indescribable -pain from a wound in his stomach; his face pale, his lips discoloured, -and stifled groans issuing from his nearly lifeless body, while an -almost tropical sun was shining on his uncovered head. - -Soon after the third division had reached its destination, a column -of French descended a hill _en masse_ on our extreme right, towards -the village of Miranda. Three eighteen-pounders opened on them, which -took full effect, and spoiled their regularity. The enemy hesitated, -while the discharges of our heavy ordnance were overthrowing all -opposition. They went to the right-about to get out of range. Our -columns, formed behind the Table Mountain, now debouched in double -time, showing the French Marshal that the long-expected crisis was at -hand. A sharp fire of musketry opened on some companies of the seventh -fusileers, supported by the light companies of the foot guards, as -they broke through the village of the Arapiles at half-past two. The -third division had already brought up their right shoulders, and were -pushing on very successfully, when the enemy's horse furiously charged -the grenadiers and right of the 5th regiment, while advancing in line, -which they repulsed and continued their movement. The fire gradually -increasing, at half-past four the armies were well in contact. The -musketry rolled without intermission, only interrupted by the still -louder artillery. The fourth division, breathless, amidst showers -of grape, musketry, and round-shot, had succeeded in planting their -standards on the crest of the enemy's position; but at that moment a -French division, in close column, and at a run, with fixed bayonets, -forced them down the hill, whilst others advanced on their left flank, -which was exposed, and carried the centre of the battle again into the -valley; but our heavy cavalry, in the right centre, were bearing down -all opposition, driving the left of the enemy before them, and putting -them into the greatest confusion. Major-General Le Marchant was killed -heading this charge. Marshal Beresford[38], Generals Leith, Cole, -and Alten, were wounded. On the part of the French that fell, were -the Duke of Ragusa, Generals Fercy, Thomieres, Desgraviers, Bonnet, -Clausel, and Menne, besides their losing numerous prisoners, standards, -and cannon. At six the battle was at the height—no cessation of -musketry, and the cannon of both armies thundering away as if there -were to be no end of it. The columns of smoke and dust were rolling up -in dense volumes, so that the atmosphere became dark above the bloody -scene; yet there was not a cloud to be descried, except those which -arose from the battle. A Spanish peasant was looking on with his arms -folded; I heard him exclaim, "_Que grandisimo mundo!_[39]" - -The inhabitants of Salamanca were crowding the places of public -worship, to offer up prayers for the success of our arms. _Apropos_, it -was Sunday. - -At half-past six, a brigade of Portuguese guns opened on the enemy, -in front of our division. At seven, the Prince of Orange, one of the -General-in-Chief's aides-de-camp rode up, and ordered our division to -move on the left to attack. We moved towards the Table Mountain, right -brigade in front, in open column; having passed it, we then closed -to column of quarter distance. The enemy's skirmishers soon advanced, -and opened a brisk fire. The shades of evening now approached, and -the flashes of cannon and small arms in the centre and on the heights -were still vivid, while the enemy were making their last struggle -for victory. An English officer of General Pack's brigade passed us, -covered with dust and perspiration; he complained of the rough usage -of the French. They allowed the Portuguese to approach nearly to the -summit of the point of attack, then charged them, and used the bayonet -without remorse, taking that part of the field under their especial -protection. - -The enemy's light infantry increased, and retired very deliberately; -the ascent was gentle. The first brigade deployed, supported by the -second; the first division was marching in reserve. - -Our skirmishers were obliged to give ground to the obstinacy of the -enemy; and nearly ceased firing. The line marched over them, dead and -alive. - -Appearances indicated a severe fight, for we were near the enemy's -reserves. The Earl of Wellington was within fifty yards of the front, -when the adverse lines commenced firing. The General-in-Chief ordered -us to halt within two hundred yards of the enemy. They gave us two -volleys with cheers, while our cavalry galloped forward to threaten -their right flank. At this time I heard that a musket-ball had -perforated the Earl's cloak, folded in front of his saddle. As we were -about to charge, the enemy disappeared, not being in sufficient force -to withstand the attack. This advance was beautifully executed. - -Night coming on, the firing died away. Thus ended a battle which bore -on the destinies of Europe, by showing the decline of French power in -Spain, and leaving the British army for the first time free to pursue -their enemy at pleasure. It lasted six hours.—Our line continued its -movement. A French cavalry picquet fired on us at ten; the _ruse de -guerre_ would not do[40]. We continued to advance until midnight; and -bivouacked round a village. - -The Duke of Ragusa was carried off the field by a company of French -grenadiers. He had manœuvred well, from the 19th till the battle, and -had moved round our flank on a half circle. - -As morning dawned on the 23rd, the light division advanced, supported -by the first division, and crossing the ford, near Huerta, formed -_en masse_ in a valley, while the heavy German dragoons ascended the -hill, moving on the left of the enemy. After some time we debouched. -The Germans made a brilliant charge, and broke the French rear guard, -formed on the side of a hill near La Serna. They suffered much. The -whole of the enemy had not formed square. I observed five hundred stand -of muskets on their left, lying on the ground in line, as if they had -been piled and knocked down, and the owners had shifted as well as they -could; the muskets were not grounded to the front, but lying sideways. -The enemy only formed two squares. I saw a man and horse dead, the -rider still in his saddle. They must have received their mortal wounds -at the same instant. - -On mounting the hill, the enemy's army were in full view, in one great -mass. Our horse artillery threw some shot into them. The troops soon -halted, and the enemy were seen no more. - -[Footnote 33: Now Lord Combermere.] - -[Footnote 34: The company was formed up, and fronting the right flank -of our dragoons. We, therefore, had an admirable view of the space -between the combatants. The soldiers of the company had made ready, -holding their firelocks horizontally, or rather at the charging -position, but to have fired would have been rather unchivalric, and -would probably have destroyed the valiant French officer, who, though -our enemy, was an honour to his country.] - -[Footnote 35: Six companies of the second battalion of rifles joined us -on the retreat, just arrived from England.] - -[Footnote 36: During this campaign only a few Spaniards were attached -to each British regiment in our division.] - -[Footnote 37: The third division did not pass through Salamanca, when -they descended from the hill of Cabrerizos. They forded the Tormes, and -passed within a mile in rear of us.] - -[Footnote 38: Now Lord Beresford.] - -[Footnote 39: He was the only peasant I ever saw in battle, except one -who offered his services at Vittoria, to conduct our division over -an unprotected bridge, when the second shot fired took off the poor -fellow's head.] - -[Footnote 40: It has been affirmed, that the firing of the French -picquet of dragoons in the forest caused us to go too much to the left. -On the contrary, we were moving directly towards the ford of Huerta, -on the Tormes, as it was supposed that the Spaniards left in the old -castle of Alba de Tormes would prevent the enemy crossing the bridge at -that place. These Spaniards, however, unknown to the General-in-Chief, -had surrendered the day before.] - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - Well-performed retreat of the French after the battle of - Salamanca—Progress of the English troops—Description of the - Spanish plains and towns—Custom of the _Siesta_—Movements of - Joseph Bonaparte—Bivouac at Olmedo, and ball given there by - Lord Wellington—Advance of the British army, and entry into - Valladolid—A swimming adventure—Illness of the author, and - his removal to the town of Cuellar—Timorous conduct of the - Portuguese dragoons—The English army enters Madrid—Incidents - attending the author's further removal as an invalid to - Salamanca—General position of affairs on the Continent—Operations - of Sir R. Hill—Re-capture of Valladolid—Unsuccessful siege of - Burgos—Various movements of the forces. - - -A great portion of the French army had marched more than twelve -leagues[41] in thirty-six hours, (advancing and retreating from the -field of battle,) and had also been engaged in hard-fighting six hours -out of that time; therefore, until the night of the 23d, they had -hardly made a halt for any considerable time during two days and a -night, and I think I may venture to assert, that the rapidity of their -movements, before and after the action, and their ultimate escape -under Gen. Clausel from the very jaws of destruction, are equally -astonishing. - -Early on the morning of the 24th of July, we passed Pena-Aranda, from -whence the inhabitants sallied out, loaded with bread, wine, and -liquors, and rent the air with their acclamations in praise of the -glorious victory that we had won over the French; and even the little -boys straddled out their legs and bent forward their heads in derision -of the enemy's soldiers, to represent to us to what a state of distress -and exhaustion they were reduced. As we passed onwards, numerous -objects of commiseration, lying by the side of the road, reminded us of -the miseries of war in all its horrors: many of the French soldiers lay -dead, exposed to the scorching rays of the sun, which had so blistered -their faces, and swelled their bodies, that they scarcely represented -human forms, and looked more like some huge and horrible monsters, of -gigantic dimensions, than any thing else. It is impossible to convey -an adequate idea of such spectacles, or of the sensations they must -have endured during their last agonies. These, now inanimate, objects -had marched over sandy plains, without a tree to shelter them, while -suffering from fatigue, sore feet, and want of water; then crowding -into the battle, covered with dust, and under a scorching sun, they -had received severe wounds, and were finally dragged, or carried -on rudely-constructed bearers, from the scene of action, during -excruciating torture, and ultimately left to perish by the side of the -roads, or on stubble land, with their parched tongues cleaving to the -roof of their mouths, and (to complete their miseries) before breathing -their last sigh, to behold, with glazed and half-closed eyes, the -uplifted hand of a Spanish assassin, armed with a knife, to put an end -to their existence. These dreadful fates awaited the defeated French -soldiers in Spain; it was impossible to gaze on the mutilated bodies -of these our enemies without feelings of deep commiseration for our -fellow-creatures, who, a day or two previously, had been alive like -ourselves, and perhaps the admiration of their comrades. - -The vast _campos_ in Leon, the two Castiles, and other parts of -Spain, are apparently interminable sandy plains, covered with corn or -small stumpy vines. In summer, many of the principal rivers become -very shallow, and numerous tributary streams are dried up, leaving -their winding beds, or indentures, filled with pebbles. In many parts -there is not a tree, a hedge, or a shrub to mark private or public -boundaries, nor a drop of water to be procured. The shapeless roads, or -beaten tracts, are ancle-deep in sand, and in some places fifty yards -wide; at other spots branching off into three or four paths, which -again join at a given point. During the excessive heat of the day a -solemn silence frequently pervades these immense plains; and the high -steeples of churches, or the venerable turrets of monasteries of _las -villas_, or _pueblos_, alone present a land-mark, and direct the weary -footsteps of the traveller. - -The towns are constructed of ancient massive buildings of stone or -dingy brick, (the lower windows barred with iron,) intermixed with -innumerable churches, convents, and religious edifices of the most -ancient construction. - -During the middle of the day all shops are closed by a pair of unwieldy -doors, and the inhabitants enjoy their middle sleep or _siesta_. -At this hour the streets may be traversed without meeting a single -person, and the great monastic edifices stand in solemn grandeur as -monuments of that superstition exercised by the monks at the time of -their foundation in the darker ages. As soon as the scorching heat has -somewhat subsided, the doors are thrown open, and towards evening the -streets are thronged by merry dancers and songstresses; the tinkling of -the guitar is heard from the casements, balconies, and verandas; the -servant maids go chatting and laughing to the fountains; the muleteers -lead their animals to water; the peasant girls bring in cans of goat's -milk, and the shopkeepers sit at their portals without coats, having -their shirt sleeves tucked up, and smoking cigars. - -On the 25th we made a halt to enable the stragglers and stores of the -army to come up. On the same day El Rey Joseph had arrived at Blasko -Sancho, near Arevalo, with a reinforcement, principally composed -of Spaniards, for the purpose of joining the Duke of Ragusa; but -on gaining intelligence of the defeat his troops had sustained at -Salamanca, he countermarched in the evening towards his capital, -leaving a picquet of cavalry behind at Blasko Sancho, who were all -taken prisoners, while carousing in a wine-house, by a corporal's party -of the 14th light horse. About this time General Sir R. Hill had moved -with the second division on Zafra, in Estremadura, to observe a French -force in that quarter. - -On the 28th our division bivouacked round the ancient town of Olmedo, -where the Earl of Wellington gave a ball, with a general _invite_ -to all those officers who liked to attend. The Alcalde selected the -different ladies as usual, whose merry hearts and supple forms were -always ready for the dance. - -The following morning, an hour before daylight, we advanced, and it was -a droll sight to see the officers sleeping as they rode along after -the fatigues of the previous night, still dressed in their ball attire, -such as crimson, light blue, or white trowsers, richly embroidered with -gold or silver, velvet and silk waistcoats of all colours, decorated -in a similar manner: dandies ready alike for the dance and the fight; -most of them had received a wound, and others more, nor can I call to -mind one of the officers present at this time, including the senior -officer, who had reached twenty-five years of age. Owing to the heat of -the weather, it was the fashion of the times to wear the jacket open, -which was the only particle of dress left to denote to what nation we -belonged; as to any other uniformity for the officers, it was quite -out of the question: the fantastical dresses of those days would have -confounded the most ancient or modern disciplinarians.—The enemy still -continued their flight across the Douro through Valladolid, which city -the Marquis of Wellington entered on the 30th, at the head of a large -body of horse. The country on the banks of the Douro is remarkably -sandy, and highly cultivated with vines; we forded to the left bank -of the river on that day within two leagues of Valladolid. While -our baggage was crossing, a batman and pony got out of their depth, -and were carried down the stream a considerable distance; and so -determined was the soldier to hold on, that he disdained, at the risk -of his life, to quit his charge, and continued swimming until a rope -was thrown to him, by the assistance of which he conveyed the little -animal and his master's portmanteaus safe on shore. - -We had no sooner heard of the large town in the vicinity, than we -began to prepare for the visit; however, it struck me that it would be -very refreshing to enjoy a swim first, and also wishing my horse to -participate in the luxury, I stripped myself and mounted its back, and -together we plunged into the stream; but, as ill luck would have it, -for a moment, the provoking animal hardly made any exertion, so down -he went, and thinking there was no time to be lost, I sprang from his -back; but owing to his plunging I received a slanting kick on my chest, -such as most probably would have proved fatal, had the full weight of -the blow struck me direct. The animal, however, soon recovered itself, -and swimming with the current, it was with considerable difficulty I -succeeded in getting it on shore. - -Valladolid is a fine old city, (with a spacious square,) the -inhabitants of which were glad to see us, but evinced none of those -rapturous and warm expressions of delight displayed by those of -Salamanca. - -The next morning we crossed the river, and branched off in the -direction of Madrid. Having halted a day or two, we again became in -motion, and struck on an excellent road, leading to the capital. Many -exclaimed, "Is this the road to Madrid? are we really going to the -capital of Spain, the centre of romance"? My mind was filled with all -sorts of illusions, and various anticipations of pleasure; my rest -was disturbed, and my dreams were of Madrid; every day's march was -counted, every object brought something new, and I made up my mind to -dance every night when I should arrive. Continuing our route, we had -reached within two days' march of the city of Segovia, in the kingdom -of old Castile, and occupied a pine wood. On seeing an officer pass, -who was likely to give me every information relative to the movements -of the army, I issued from my small Portuguese tent, and entered into -conversation with him, which lasted a considerable time. Being without -my cap, I felt the top of my head extremely hot from the rays of the -sun, and was about to withdraw several times for a covering, which -unluckily I failed to do. When the dinner-hour arrived, composed of -rice and boiled beef, (without any bread or biscuit,) my appetite -failed, and I laid me down, in hopes that a few hours' sleep would -restore me. At daylight, the following morning, we were again _en -route_, and had just cleared the sandy wood, enveloped in dust, when -a sudden giddiness seized me, and I fell from my horse. On recovering -my senses, I found myself supported by an officer. There was no water -to be procured, and, on overtaking the division, I was advised to ride -gently on to avoid the dust. - -For the first time in Spain, I observed a Spanish grandee travelling -in a carriage drawn by eight mules, escorted by fourteen servants, -clothed in long yellow coats, with cocked hats, and all regularly -armed, like horse soldiers. The costume of the peasantry now became -somewhat different; one of that class was walking by my side, with a -sort of spiral cloth cap, and clad in dark brown, who asked me if I did -not admire a little girl passing on the road, whom he called a _Wappa -Chica_; she wore also a stiff spiral cap of cloth, perched on the top -of her head, with round balls of different colours up each side of -it: her hair was plaited on each side of her head, ending in a huge -pig-tail, about eight inches long, and precisely similar to those worn -by British sailors; the jacket was brown, laced up the front; a yellow -petticoat, reaching just below the knee, blue stockings, red clocks, -shoes, and silver buckles. Having travelled some leagues, I came to -a village, where I observed one of the commissaries of our division -standing at the door of a cottage, who remarked that I looked very -ill, and asked me where I was going. I told him "about half a league -farther on, when I intended to lie down under a tree until the troops -came up, as I concluded they would not proceed much farther that day." -He politely begged that I would partake of breakfast with him, as it -was already prepared, which offer I thankfully accepted. My fever -continued rapidly to increase, so that I could scarcely sit upright, -and I soon began to talk very incoherently, which induced him to put -me to bed; the division shortly afterwards filed through the village, -and bivouacked half a league in advance. In the evening, the two other -officers of the company with whom I messed, paid me a visit, and -said, "Why, what is the matter?" when I replied, "That the commissary -had used me very cruelly, and had been smothering me in blankets, to -prevent my going on to Madrid." The assistant-surgeon having felt my -pulse, asked whether I would permit him to throw some water on my head? -which I readily assented to, entreating him to do any thing to make -well. Then, being lifted out of bed, and divested of my linen garment, -I was placed in a chair, while the doctor, standing on a table, -emptied two pitchers of spring water on my crown; which produced a most -painful sensation. - -The following morning my companions assured me that I could not -be permitted to proceed; but that, as there was a station to be -established at the town of Cuellar, it would be necessary that I should -go thither, when they felt no doubt that I should speedily recover, so -as to be enabled soon to rejoin them. A car was accordingly procured, -drawn by two fine mules, with a blanket extended over the top as an -awning. - -At the expiration of two days' journey, I reached the entrance of -Cuellar, when a soldier came forward, and intimated that no sick could -enter the town until the commandant's permission was obtained; and -we were actually detained nearly two hours roasting in the mid-day -sun, before a free passage was granted us. Much exhausted, and -half suffocated, I at length obtained a most excellent billet in a -gentleman's house, where I received the greatest attention from an -assistant-surgeon belonging to one of the regiments quartered there; -being unable to quit my bed. - -At this time the army had possessed itself of the passes of Segovia and -the Guadarama, and had moved forward on the 11th of August towards -Madrid, having, in the course of their march, forced the enemy's -advanced guard of cavalry to retire; but in the afternoon these -again advanced from Malajahonda towards Rosas, to reconnoitre the -Portuguese dragoons, who were drawn up on a rising ground above the -latter village, and made a show of charging, but when they had arrived -sufficiently near to observe the hardened-looking visages of the sturdy -French heavy horse, who displayed their long shining weapons, with -brass hilts, like the Highland broadsword, with the exception of being -one-third longer—at such a sight these our allies simultaneously -wheeled about, and scampered off as fast as their Portuguese horses -could trot and gallop, followed by their unmerciful pursuers, stabbing -and hacking them down, and riding past three pieces of horse artillery -that had been overturned. The heavy dragoons of the King's German -Legion took to horse as speedily as possible, amidst the confusion, -and, after a good deal of savage sabring, the enemy retired, leaving -at night the captured guns behind them. El Rey Joseph had retired with -his followers behind the Tagus, and the following day our army entered -Madrid, where the French had injudiciously left a garrison in the Buen -Retiro, who surrendered themselves prisoners of war, just as part of -the third division, and some other detachments, were about to escalade -the works. A vast quantity of stores, powder, and ball, fell into our -hands, besides one hundred and ninety pieces of cannon, principally -dismounted. - -About the 20th of August, a detachment of our regiment, from England, -passed through Cuellar, but, as they had experienced a long march -during the hot months, an enormous number of them died, and the sick -continued to increase from the army in such a ratio, that most of us -were ordered to proceed to Salamanca. Accordingly, on the sixth day -after my arrival, I was placed in a car, drawn by bullocks, to begin -another tedious journey. The sixth division was on parade, having been -left at that station as a corps of observation, and to protect the sick -and the stores of the army. - -That night I travelled a short way, and was billeted on a very clean -house, where the _patron_ was most anxious to have all the particulars -of the late battle recounted to him; however, finding that I was not -a sufficient master of the Spanish language to satisfy his curiosity, -he was determined to make up for it by entering into the history of -his own country. It was in vain that I exerted all my patience, and -requested he would have the goodness to leave the room, pleading my -indisposition in excuse for my apparent rudeness. Having maintained -silence for a few minutes, he offered me every thing in his house, -inquired if I was better, and recommenced his volubility to such a -degree, that I almost became distracted, and was under the painful -necessity of calling in my servant, who, in half fun and half earnest, -turned him out of the room by the shoulders. - -The next day I reached Arevalo, where the market was filled with fresh -vegetables, a sight only to be appreciated by those who have travelled -over a dry country, devoid of vegetation. A smiling _muchacha_, who -sat by the side of a well-made young Spaniard, jumped up, and handed -me a large bunch of grapes, with a dignified air of affability and -frankness, so peculiar to the lower orders of that country. I obtained -a billet on a very handsome house, situated in a luxuriant garden; and, -on being supported out of the car, I was so weak that I fell down, and -continued in fainting fits for some time, my servant all the while -sousing me with water in imitation of _the Doctor_. The fascinating -_Señorita_ of the house, about seventeen years of age, very kindly -administered every attention; and at night, with a small lamp, remained -in a recess, in readiness to offer me liquids, for which I continually -inquired. My recollection did not entirely forsake me, but my head was -in a bad state, so that I fancied I saw groups of monkeys grinning at -the foot of my bed; and, as I was unable to endure the slender rays -of the lamp, I begged of the young lady to retire. At such a request -her countenance pourtrayed every mark of disappointment: whether she -considered me as one of the deliverers of her country, or whether so -young a girl, residing in so sequestered a spot, fancied me under -her especial protection, I know not; but I do know that her amiable -solicitude and her lovely eyes made such an impression, that she -continued the mistress of my thoughts, and heroine of my fancy, for a -long period afterwards. - -Taking my farewell on the following morning, and apologizing to the -little _Señorita_ for my want of gallantry, I proceeded on my journey, -and at the end of four hours reached the middle of an extensive plain, -when one of the bullocks became dead lame, and the enraged driver -declared vehemently that he would go no farther; my servant, therefore, -dismounted from my palfrey, and placed me on its back. We made for -the distant steeple, which skirted the horizon, as the point of our -destination. At the expiration of a toilsome ride, we reached the -_Pueblo_, and there sojourned until the next morning. In two more days -we reached Alba de Tormes; I was quartered at an _apothecary's shop_, -where I lay on the mattress for twelve hours in a sort of stupor; on -recovering, in some degree, my servant fancied that I was dying, and -proposed sending for the Spaniard, which I would by no means consent -to, from the apprehension that he would bleed me to death. - -The next day, while quietly passing through a wood, at a lonely spot, -my horse made a sudden start, and, on looking to the right, I observed -a dead man, perfectly naked, placed against a large piece of rock. -He had been killed at the battle of Salamanca. His hair was long and -grey; his beard had grown to a considerable length; and his arms and -legs had been placed in an extended position; in fact, he was in an -exact fencing attitude, in an extraordinary state of preservation, and -presenting, of course, a dreadful spectacle. - -I noticed during the period that I was in Spain, that those soldiers -killed in action, who were exposed to the rays of the sun, immediately -became a mass of corruption, but of those, on the contrary, who fell -under trees or in shady places, exposed to heavy dew or rain, the skin -became as hard as leather, and they would remain in that state for a -very considerable period, unless they were devoured by wild animals or -birds of prey. I have often seen vultures feeding on dead horses (that -had been killed in battle) so fat, that they could scarcely take wing, -or raise themselves from the ground. - -On reaching Salamanca, I obtained a billet, on presenting which, I -was treated with the greatest insolence by the man of the house, who -declared that I might enter, but that he had no accommodation for -my servant; under these circumstances, I was under the necessity of -sitting down in the street, until the soldier went to seek elsewhere -for better success. After some farther delay, he procured me another -on a public notary, where I was civilly received; but in the middle -of the day my _patron_, smelling of tobacco and garlic, came in to -take a _siesta_, in one of the two beds in a large recess. I asked him -if he intended to sleep there; he replied "_Si, Señor_." To such an -arrangement I objected; but he would not give up the point; a struggle -then ensued between us, which lasted some minutes, although eventually -I made him surrender. He was merely a diminutive old man; but I had -become weak from the effects of my fever; and the scene was so amusing, -that his own son, with a smiling countenance, was quietly looking on. - -A hospital mate being put in requisition, the first dose administered -to me was an _emetic_, and whenever I complained, the same dose was -repeated; therefore, whenever he visited me, I invariably declared -_that I was better_. - -Our army had now occupied the heart of Spain, and the enemy, with rapid -strides, were endeavouring to concentrate in the distant provinces -round our centre, blowing up magazines, and eating up all before -them, like a swarm of locusts. Napoleon was at this period traversing -the wilds of Russia with his grand army, and his magnificent and -highly-appointed Imperial guard. _The banners of Austria, Prussia, -Italy, and the Germanic States, were marching under his control._ -The _north_ and _south_ of Europe were in a blaze, and had become -the extreme points of contest, which were ultimately to decide this -mighty struggle for supremacy. The victory of Salamanca had shaken the -combinations of the enemy in all parts of Spain, and put the whole -of them in motion. On the 25th of August they destroyed their works -before Cadiz, leaving behind them stores, heavy artillery, and mortars, -many of the latter having been cast at Seville, by the order of the -Duke of Dalmatia, for the purpose of throwing shells into the town of -Cadiz.[42] Some Spaniards and British immediately advanced from the -lines, and took forcible possession of Seville. - -On the 29th of August, Sir R. Hill, with the second division, entered -Illerena, and pushed on to Ayllones, on the borders of Estremadura; -but, finding the French were retrograding on Cordova and Granada, -for the purpose of communicating with Joseph, who, in like manner, -was forming a junction with the Duke of Albufera, intending to make -Valencia the centre and the base of his future operations against -Madrid; Sir R. Hill, thereupon, by a flank movement, marched towards -the city of Medellin, on the left bank of the Guadiana, so as to be in -readiness to act wherever his presence might be required, or to open -his line with the third, fourth, and light divisions, cantoned in the -vicinity of Madrid. - -The General-in-Chief no sooner saw a probability of his right -flank being cleared of the enemy, than he set off from Madrid, and -concentrated the first, fifth, sixth, and seventh divisions round -Arevalo, (early in September,) with a force of cavalry and artillery, -passed the Douro, and retook Valladolid, which had been re-occupied by -the enemy for a short time. On the 19th he crossed the river Arlanzon, -and laid siege to the old castle of Burgos, bristled with cannon and -the bayonets of its hardy defenders. Various attempts by escalade, -mining, explosions, and breaching were tried for a month without -success, owing to the want of a sufficiency of battering artillery, -and to the obstinate defence made by the enemy, who firmly lined the -walls, and threw their balls and bullets with deadly aim against the -assailants. The enemy's vanguard was at Briviesca, and his main body -behind the river Ebro, during the greater part of the siege. - -In the mean time the second division had moved, in the middle of -September, across the river Guadiana, through Truxillo Jaraceijo, -towards Almaraz, and then crossed the Tagus by a pontoon bridge, and -continuing its movement on the right of that river, passed Talavera de -la Reyna, and arrived on the 30th at Toledo, occupying both banks of -the river Tagus. General Sir Rowland Hill pushed forward his advance -to Yepes and its vicinity, taking the command of the right wing of -the army, composed of the second, third, fourth, and light divisions, -besides cavalry and artillery stationed in the vicinity of Madrid. - -[Footnote 41: About forty-eight miles.] - -[Footnote 42: One of these mortars was brought to England, and is now -placed on the south side of St. James's Park.] - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - The author becomes convalescent, and proceeds to rejoin the - army—Guadarama mountains—Park and palace of the Escurial—An - enthusiastic native—A Spanish bandit—British quarters in - Madrid, and description of the city—English theatricals—Renewed - activity of the contending armies—The British troops evacuate - Madrid—Romantic attachments—Alba de Tormes—Re-occupation of - Salamanca—Military discomforts—Skirmishing affairs—The French - obliged to desist from pursuit through fatigue—Various positions - of the British forces during the winter of 1812-13. - - -For my part, I had no sooner contrived to get out of bed at Salamanca, -than I began to pace up and down the room, and in a very few days -gained sufficient strength to be enabled to inhale the fresh air in the -cool of the evening. While walking slowly along, I met one of the staff -doctors of our division, who expressed much regret that he had not -been aware of my being sick in that town, and offered every assistance -in his power; I expressed my thanks, but informed him that I intended -to join my regiment. He asked me if I were mad, and insisted on my -giving him a promise not to think of prosecuting so wild a scheme for -the present; which I was necessitated to acquiesce in, from a fear that -he would effectually stop my rambles: however, two days afterwards, -I presented myself to the medical board, which sat daily to examine -officers: the group of _medicos_ were seated round a table, and, -having eyed them particularly, I experienced great relief at finding -the worthy doctor did not form one of the party. I felt considerable -agitation, (from a fear that they would not sanction my departure,) -which gave me a colour; in fact, I reported myself in perfect health, -and obtained permission to proceed to rejoin the army with a strong -detachment, who were about to depart for that purpose. At five o'clock -next morning, the day before I was to recommence my journey, my servant -entered my quarter, and announced that my mule had been stolen, during -the night, out of the stable, and that my horse had been running about -loose, with the door wide open. This unwelcome intelligence caused me -to tremble so violently, that I sank down on the bed, nor do I ever -recollect being so agitated in my life, for I had no means left to -supply its place, and I could not have walked in my weak state half a -league. Fortunately an officer, who had just come from England to join -us, relieved my anxiety, by offering to carry my baggage on one of his -animals. - -At daylight the next morning we started. The spangled dew still hung -on the trees, the morning breeze refreshed my body and mind, and -with exhilarated spirits I felt as if new life and fresh vigour had -been conveyed throughout my frame. The dead French soldier was still -stationary in the wood, and in exactly the same position already -described. On re-entering Alba de Tormes, I passed the _apothecary's -shop_, with exultation, which only four weeks before I had entered in -such a miserable plight. When we passed through Arevalo, one of the -narrow streets leading to the Plaza was choked up with cars from the -city of Burgos, crammed to overloading with exhausted, speechless, and -wounded Highlanders, covered with hot sand, and many of them slumbering -unto death; their pallid countenances portended the speedy dissolution -of their lingering sufferings, while their sable plumes and torn -tartans hung loosely on the pointed stakes, which formed the temporary -sides of the rude vehicles. I searched in vain, through every narrow -avenue, and amongst the numerous convents and monasteries, for the -house of the young lady who had been so attentive to me in that town. -I well recollected the high walls of one of those fabrics inclosing -one side of the garden; I was, therefore, in hopes that in some spot of -difficult access, I should find the fair object of my solicitude. The -whole of the following day (during our halt) was passed, however, in -fruitless search. - -Continuing the march, our little column consisted of three hundred and -fifty men, and when within sight of the distant villages, which were -surrounded by extensive plains, the church bells rang merry peals. -Almost the whole of these places had been entrenched by temporary -works, and the churches loopholed by the French posts of communication, -to protect their small detachments from being destroyed or cut off by -the _guerillas_, or surprised by the infuriated peasantry. Shortly -before we reached the Guadarama mountains, we struck into the high road -to Madrid; for many miles there was scarcely a house to be seen. At -length we came to a _venta_, on the right of the road, but the house -had been thoroughly gutted, and it was impossible for the owners of it -to procure any thing for us to eat. The country bore a very solitary -aspect until we began to ascend the pass by a paved road, cut in a -zigzag direction up the face of the mountain, on the top of which -stands a marble fountain. The prospect from this point is very grand, -commanding a distant view of Madrid, of the palace of the Escurial, -and of the rugged mountains extending towards Segovia, which are -covered with snow during the greater portion of the year. The poor -village of the Guadarama is situated in a valley at the foot of the -grand pass, in the kingdom of new Castile. - -Towards evening, our horses being in some degree refreshed, we rode -into the park of the Escurial, which is of considerable extent, and -lies adjacent to the village, producing pretty good pasturage, but -infested by prowling wolves and wild boars. The trees are generally of -small growth, consisting of oak, carob, ash, and cork. The front of the -palace of the Escurial looks towards the mountains of the Guadarama, -and is built of a grey granite, in the shape of a gridiron. This -culinary utensil is represented in the books of mass, on the doors, and -in various parts of the building, which is perforated by innumerable -windows. The pantheon of the palace is octagon, composed of marble; -about fourteen niches are occupied by embalmed kings and queens; and -there are a variety of other curiosities worthy the observation of the -traveller. Returning towards the village, the old man of the house -assured us the effect of the extraordinary edifice we had explored -was nothing to the wonder and astonishment we should experience at -the grand bull fights of Spain. The tears rolled down his furrowed -cheeks as he ran about the room, (which was paved with red tiles,) -representing the wild Andalusian bull staring with surprise on first -entering the arena; and then, getting astride of a chair, showed us -how the _Picador_ received the bellowing bull on his lance, and the -way he was frequently tossed, mangled, and killed, by the infuriated -animal. Then again, he skipped and danced about the room to represent -the men insinuating the pointed darts and crackers into the animal's -neck; and finally gave us the _graceful Matador_, with a red cloak -slung over one arm, and a short sword in his hand, making his obeisance -with a profound bend to the _señoras_ and _caballeros_, who excite him -by countless _vivas_, and the waving of the white hands, and whiter -pocket-handkerchiefs, to dispatch the staggering bull at one thrust. -At length the ancient _caballero_ became so much exhausted by his -exertions and feelings, that he fell back motionless in his chair, -exclaiming, "_Oh, los ladrones Franceses!_ they have eaten up all -our Andalusian bulls, killed our poultry, corrupted all our _mozas_, -and knocked all our _Santa Marias_ from the altars, and out of their -_sacred niches_ by the road side." - -During this rhodomontade we remained quiet spectators, quaffing the -excellent wine which our host had extracted from a concealed deposit. - -Taking our departure the next morning, two of us being some short -distance behind the detachment, at a very lonely spot, we observed a -Spaniard of most ferocious aspect, with huge mustachios, a capacious -_sombrero_, and clad in a leathern jacket, like a cuirass, with a short -broad sword by his side, and a brace of pistols in his broad belt, -which was buckled round his waist. We were instantly convinced that he -was a robber on the look out, in the capacity of a spy, for his hidden -_camarados_; however, saluting him as we passed, which he returned by -a cold and distant bend of the head, the few baggage animals being in -sight, we thought it necessary to warn the soldiers in charge to be on -their guard, although, generally speaking, the British might pass all -over the country without danger; yet some robberies had been committed -in Spain and Portugal also by banditti. - -This day we halted at the village of Rosas, about two leagues from the -capital. The country is bare and hilly, and even when within half a -mile of Madrid, the traveller might fancy himself in a bare wilderness, -as the town stands isolated in the midst of a rugged plain, skirted on -the north side by distant mountains, and there is not the least sign -of traffic, with the exception of a few mules or asses loaded with -chopped straw, the usual forage (instead of hay) given to animals; all -other vegetation being parched up, and even the shallow river of the -Manzanares having at that time ceased to flow. - -After the short absence of seven weeks, having travelled, as already -described, more than two hundred and thirty miles, and nearly recovered -from the effects of my fever, I rejoined our first brigade quartered in -Madrid, as well as the third division; the second brigade was stationed -two leagues from the town, in support of those troops cantoned in the -line of the Tagus. Here I received the welcome information, that since -I had quitted the division they had not seen the enemy. The troops were -quartered in the various convents and monasteries, and the officers -were billeted on the most splendid houses; many of these had white -papers stuck on the windows, to denote that the former occupiers of -them had followed the fortunes and court of _El Rey Joseph_, thereby -deserting their country's cause. - -One of my friends, whom I had left under a tree, I found occupying -the house of a marquis, and decorating and perfuming himself before a -splendid toilette, previously to making his bow to the beautiful and -attractive object of all his desires, who had invited him to spend -that evening at her house. He described to me their proud entry into -Madrid as a conquering army; then the variegated drapery hanging from -the windows, the acclamations of the people, and all the beauty of the -place welcoming them, striking guitars, tambourines, and castanets, -with eyes beaming love and admiration in a manner indescribable, -known and felt only by those who have won the battle, after having -been wandering under the heaven's bright blue canopy for sixty days, -and traversing hundreds of miles over burning plains. Another officer -reposed his limbs on a bed of down, (enveloped by white satin curtains -edged with long gold bullion,) encompassed by mirrors, the whole -surmounted by a gilded helmet, adorned with a noble plume of ostrich -feathers. The rest of the furniture in this superb mansion was composed -of the most costly materials. - -Madrid is a compact town; the lower windows of all the monasteries and -houses are defended by iron bars; many of the streets are spacious, and -the whole of them are remarkably clean. The Plaza Major is a square of -lofty houses, many of them stained of various colours; the windows are -very close together, out of which hang mats and drapery of a variety -of striped patterns, to shade the rooms from the mid-day sun. Here -is the principal market for vegetables and other commodities, and it -invariably presents a bustling and busy scene. The Royal Palace is -of a square form, and surrounds an interior court-yard, which has -two gateways. The grand staircase rises out of the court-yard near -the principal entrance; it is a most splendid work, wide and lofty, -leading into the principal suite of rooms, magnificently furnished. As -we passed through them, I noticed the man in charge locking the doors -after us: when, therefore, the curiosity of the admiring spectators was -satisfied, we were ushered into another, and again made prisoners for -the time being. A picture, beautifully executed, represented Napoleon -in his younger days crossing the Alps, at the head of his bare-footed -army, and was considered, by those who had seen him, to be an exact -likeness; the face was extremely handsome. The Callé Major and Alcala -are the principal streets of the town; the latter is wide and spacious, -lined by large buildings, leading direct into the _Prádo_, which is -much admired for its broad walks, divided into avenues by rows of -trees, and running the whole length of one side of the town, being -terminated at each end by gates leading from it. On the north side -stands the Buén Retiro, encompassed by temporary works, (which had -been thrown up by the French,) gardens, and pleasure grounds. - -The fountains stand at certain distances from each other in the middle -of the walks, and are framed after antique models. The water from one -of them is esteemed the best in the town; the broad walk in the centre -is adorned by these cascades, and is crowded every evening by the best -company. It is here the stranger may examine, with advantage, the -costume, style, and gait of the Spanish ladies. Their dress is composed -of a mantilla or veil, gracefully thrown over the head, a long-waisted -satin body, black silk petticoats, fringed from the knee downwards, -white silk stockings, with open clocks, kid shoes, of white or black; -they carry a large fan in their little hands, which they open and shut -as they glide along; it serves to shade them from the sun, or to salute -their different acquaintances as they pass, which they do by shaking -the fan rapidly, and simpering an affable smile. - -At sunset the bells of the convents and churches give notice for -offering up the evening prayer to the Virgin; instantaneously the crowd -becomes stationary, the _Caballeros_ take off their hats and remove the -cigars from their mouths, the _Señoras_ cover their faces with their -fans, while they inwardly mutter a short prayer. At the expiration -of a few minutes, the profound silence is broken, when all again are -in motion. In this place, dedicated to pleasure, our time was so -divided as to be occupied night and day, either in dancing or at the -_tertúlias_; public balls were also held twice a week at the _Callé de -Baños_ and _el Principe_. - -The officers of our division were anxious to display their powers as -actors to their beloved _señoritas_; therefore, among other things, -they were occupied in ordering dresses, and studying their theatrical -parts. "The Revenge" was fixed upon as the tragedy to astonish the -Spaniards. Capt. Kent, of the rifle corps, played the part of Zanga, -in _El Teátro del Principe_, with due solemnity, and the piece went -off in silence, until he began to move backwards and forwards, like -the pendulum of a clock, his sinewy arm and clenched fist, cased in a -black silk stocking, or glove, encircled by a shining bracelet—which -caused the muleteers in the gallery to roar with laughter. The -_señoras_ tittered, and held their fans to their faces. During the -remainder of the evening poor _Zanga_ was treated more like a comic -than a tragic character, and whenever he raised his arm, which he had -frequent occasion to do, the same round of salutations greeted him on -all sides, such as "_Arré Múlo_," &c. &c. At the conclusion of the -piece, a Spaniard and a girl danced a _bolero_, in inimitable style: -both of them were habited in male attire; the black hair of the female -was clubbed up behind, and tied with a bunch of ribbons hanging down -her back; she wore a richly embroidered silk jacket, white kerseymere -breeches, fitting tight to the shape, white silk stockings, shoes, and -buckles. She rattled the _castanets_ exquisitely, and beat admirable -time with her pretty little feet. - -On the 21st of October our division was hastily concentrated, and -first moved to some lonely villages, and then to Alcala de Henarez, -one of the principal universities of Spain. On the night of the 21st -the Marquis of Wellington raised the siege of the castle of Burgos, -and slowly retired on the Douro, followed by Gen. Souham. Joseph and -the Duke of Dalmatia had also formed a junction, and were making -various demonstrations on the line of the Tagus. On the 22nd, the -second division was put in motion on that river to observe the enemy's -movements. On the 24th, the third division, which had continued in -Madrid, moved towards Pinto, on the road to Aranjuez, in support of the -fourth and second divisions. On the 26th, the second division crossed -to the right bank of the Tagus, and extended its left on the Jarama. -On the same day we marched four leagues and a half from Alcala, and -entered Arganda, which is situated on the high road from Valencia. -The enemy continued to make such a variety of movements, that it was -impossible to ascertain positively whether he would attempt his grand -push on the south or east side of Madrid, which obliged General Hill to -show front on two sides of a square, for the protection of the great -roads leading towards the capital, across the rivers Tagus, Jarama, and -Henarez. - -At ten o'clock at night (of the same day we had entered Arganda,) the -bugle-horns sounded the assembly, which never occurred without the -most urgent necessity, as it was not customary for the horns to sound -when manœuvring near the enemy, except under peculiar circumstances. -The orderlies usually passed round, and gave the word to _pack up and -accoutre_, no farther questions being asked either by officers or -soldiers, and all repaired to the alarm post, and patiently awaited -farther orders; and that so often without seeing an enemy, owing to -the variety of marches and countermarches in war, that such orders had -ceased to be a novelty or any surprise to us. The division soon fell -in: I had to precede the column on duty with another officer, who was -mounted on a sorry lank pony, which, on being touched on the near or -off side, kicked out with one leg at every mule that passed him, in the -most singular manner. I never recollect laughing more heartily; the -muleteers cursed and swore, and particularly one who received a severe -kick on the leg. - -This class of men wear a large hat, or a pocket-handkerchief of various -colours, tied tight round the head, with the corner hanging down their -backs, and a sort of red Moorish sash round the loins, dark blue, or -green velveteen breeches, open at the knee, and leather gaiters, (with -innumerable buttons up the sides,) open in the middle, so as to show -the calf of the leg to advantage. The mules are very gaily caparisoned, -with bells at the head, and the backs closely shaved; the tails tied -up in bunch, with red or other coloured worsted binding; and when they -are loaded, the men sit on the top astride, singing boisterously. They -usually bivouac in the woods, when the day's journey is finished, cover -themselves with a tarpauling, and allow their mules to browse about all -night. These muleteers robbed the English army of hundreds of mules -during the war. I lost two myself, and, during the time the light -division was quartered in Madrid, the _ladrones_ caused false keys to -be made to fit the stable-doors, and actually, in the middle of the -day, took the animals clear off, which were never afterwards heard of. - -At the end of a tedious night march, the division bivouacked in the -morning on a rising ground, about a mile from Alcala, watching the -right bank of the river Henarez, and the cross-road leading from -Arganda; the enemy, however, did not make their appearance, and at -night we entered the town. The troops lay on their arms under the -piazzas, which run through nearly all the principal streets; the -inhabitants were so fearful that we might become engaged in the -streets, that they illuminated the town for three successive nights. - -On the 30th we crossed the Jarama at a bridge near St. Fernando, which -was already mined to blow up, and continued our retreat on Madrid. -A slight affair also took place more to the right, at Puente Largo, -between the van of the enemy and our troops, who had formed a junction -with us from Cadiz. The General-in-chief, on the same day, made a -movement to his left towards Ruêda, on the left of the Douro, causing -the bridges to be destroyed, right and left, on that river, to guard -his flanks, to enable him to keep open his communication with his right -wing at Madrid, and to cover its rear and left flank while retrograding -from that place, through Arevalo to Salamanca. - -Towards nightfall, as we approached Madrid, a slight rain fell, -and when within a league of the town, the whole of the dismounted -cannon taken from the enemy in the _Buén Retiro_ were blown up with -a tremendous explosion, which quite convinced us that a retreat was -decided on. We hastily traversed, by column of companies, the long -walks of the _Prádo_, which reverberated with the tramping of the -soldiers' footsteps, and on passing the last gate of the town without a -halt, we observed the bright fires of a portion of our army in bivouac -on the distant hills, on the road leading to the Guadarama, which sight -completed the gloomy thoughts of many who had formed attachments, and -had, until this moment, cherished hopes of once again passing a short -time in the society of the fair objects who had captivated their hearts -in Madrid. We filed to the summit of the comfortless bleak hills, and -as our baggage did not reach us until two hours before daylight, we -passed a tolerably uncomfortable night. - -At nine o'clock in the morning, with gladdened hearts, we received -orders again to advance on Madrid, but our anticipations were of short -duration, as we merely halted without the walls to cover the troops who -had been marching all night from the direction of Arganda and Aranjuez. - -Many of the ladies came on the walks to take their last farewell, and -just as we were moving off, forming the rear guard, in the afternoon -of the 31st, a beautiful girl, lightly clothed, refused to leave her -lover, an English officer in the Portuguese Caçadores, who dismounted, -tied his silk handkerchief round her neck, and placed her sideways -on his horse. Towards evening the wind blew keenly, and I saw her -enveloped in a soldier's great-coat. Many females left their homes in a -similar manner with the French officers, and travelled about with the -army, on horseback, and astride, clad in uniform of the Polish lancers, -or hussars, splendidly embroidered, with crimson trowsers, made very -wide, in the Cossack fashion. The ladies of Spain frequently ride -astride, with pantaloons and hessian boots, with a habit buttoning up -before and behind, and, when they are on horseback, it is unfastened -and hangs down on each side, to conceal their legs from view. - -On the 1st of November we bivouacked in the park of the Escurial, where -two wild boars galloped through the lines, and caused great confusion; -a soldier of the 52d was overturned by one of them, which bounded over -him without doing any further damage. - -During the retreat the enemy did not press us, nor were our marches -unusually long; in fact, every thing went on so regularly, that -several days' march passed with merely the usual incidents. The whole -army from Burgos and Madrid were now in junction, the left marching on -the heights of St. Christoval, to cover Salamanca, and the right on -Alba de Tormes, to take up a line of defence on the right bank of the -Tormes. - -On the evening of the 7th, our division reached within a league -and a half of Alba, where it drew up until temporary defences were -constructed, to resist the enemy at that small town. The country -was perfectly open, without a house or tree to be seen, and I was -contemplating the dreary prospect, and regretting the loss of my -blanket, placed under the saddle of my horse, which I had sent to -the rear, sick, on the previous morning. As the night closed on us, -the rain began to pour down in torrents; we were without food, or a -particle of wood to light fires. - -Before daybreak we stood to our arms, looking out for the enemy: what -a moment for an engagement, our clothes completely soaked through! -At about eleven o'clock, the order came to retire, when we filed -through the narrow streets of Alba, and crossed the bridge, where we -found sappers hard at work, mining, and laying barrels of powder to -blow up the centre arch, if necessary. The river Tormes had swollen -considerably, owing to the torrents from the mountains: therefore the -fords became difficult and uncertain. Continuing our march on the left -of the river, we entered a dripping wood, half-way to Salamanca, when -we found our baggage waiting for us. The division being dismissed, all -the trees were filled with soldiers, cutting and tearing down huge -branches to build huts. - -In a short time great fires blazed up in every direction, while -the soldiers encircled them with joyful countenances. Having been -disencumbered of our drenched clothes, and rations having been served -out, we set to work making dumplings; before dark the canteens were -laid with smoking tea, rum, hot puddings, and beef. This was, indeed, -a relishing and luxurious meal. The whole of the spirits having been -exhausted, a heavy slumber (under a tottering hut) put an end to our -carousal. - -The next morning, before daylight, we were again under arms, and moved -towards Salamanca, to occupy that town with the first division and some -Spaniards. Every morning we assembled an hour before daybreak, without -its walls, waiting the approach of the enemy. I noticed the Spanish -officers invariably covering their mouths, before the sun had risen, -with their cloaks, and blowing the smoke of their cigars through their -noses. - -The Duke of Dalmatia moved slowly and with great caution, and evidently -wishing, if possible, to force us to retire without coming to blows. -His army had been collected at vast trouble, and by enormous marching; -many of his troops had marched, within the last three months and a -half, over seven or eight hundred miles of ground. On the 10th, the -enemy made a strong reconnoissance in front of Alba de Tormes, but, -after a heavy firing of artillery, they drew off at finding they could -make no impression. On the 12th, some musketry was distinctly heard -in the direction of the position of San Christoval. Our division had -been dismissed as usual early in the morning, but was again formed, and -ordered to crown those heights, where we remained the whole day, the -alarm having been occasioned by a few Spanish _guerillas_ firing at the -French cavalry. - -On the 14th, we all left Salamanca, and moved by the left bank of -the Tormes, on the road towards Alba de Tormes, the enemy having -crossed the river by some fords, two leagues above that town. As soon -as this movement was ascertained by the General-in-chief, he made a -reconnoissance under a fire of cannon, and found the enemy strongly -posted on the left of the Tormes, at Mozarbes; the second division -remained near Alba. In the evening our advance fell back, and the -whole army was collected in the neighbourhood of the Arapiles, and -showed front in the same direction as at the previous battle; it -was supposed during the night by every one, that a great action -would be fought on the following day. The country was illuminated -for miles around from the quantity of fires, which marked the line -of our bivouac. All hands caroused until nearly midnight, being -fully determined to make themselves happy previously to the supposed -approaching struggle; then, stretching themselves under the trees or -around the fires, they tranquilly slept until an hour before daybreak, -when we formed and stood to our arms, and were again dismissed. - -At noon the baggage animals were ordered to the rear, and soon after -we observed great masses of our army, moving in dense columns from the -right by echelon of divisions towards the great forest. The enemy had -laboured hard to strengthen Mozarbes, as a _point d'appui_, under cover -of which they continued to extend their left at a distance, to outflank -our right, and to threaten our communications with Ciudad Rodrigo. At -about two o'clock in the afternoon, our division followed the movements -of the army. The rain had begun at mid-day, and now fell in torrents, -and we passed a miserable night under the trees. As soon as the road -was distinguishable in the morning, we were again on the march, -ankle-deep in mud, which tore the shoes from off the soldiers' feet; -in this manner we trudged along the whole day; towards evening we saw -the enemy on our left[43] flank, when a little cannonading took place. -One hour after nightfall, we drew up under the trees, hungry, and in -the most miserable plight; the fires were kindled with difficulty, and -while roasting on one side, we were shivering and perishing on the -other, the rain still pouring down most unmercifully, as if the very -flood-gates of the heavens had opened on us; for we were literally -flooded. - -On the morning of the 17th, not having received any orders to move, we -were in groups roasting acorns to satisfy the cravings of hunger, when -an officer, who had ridden a short way to the left, came unexpectedly -on the French heavy horse, who were stealing through the wood, and -would have made a prisoner of him, had it not been for the speed of -his English horse, which was at full gallop as he passed us, calling -out, "The enemy's cavalry!" "Fall in!" "Join the ranks!" The division -were only waiting for orders to move off, and instantly seized their -arms and debouched from the wood, and formed contiguous columns, with -our horse-artillery filling up the intervals. A few of the enemy's -horse, with polished helmets, and covered with white cloaks, appeared -moving backwards and forwards amongst the trees, looking at us. Two -officers of infantry, mounted on English horses, went to reconnoitre -them, when the enemy tried to decoy them into the thicket. A troop of -light horse were formed on our left flank, with sloped swords, but -they did not throw out any skirmishers to feel the enemy in front. -After a short time, the division retired, and crossed a narrow rivulet, -and re-formed. One company of our regiment was left amongst some old -houses on the margin of the stream, when some French dragoons slowly -came forward to look at us; one in particular went to our right, as -if he intended to cross the stream, when a German hussar, (I believe -an orderly,) went towards him, and challenged the Frenchman to single -combat, provided he would cross the water. The Frenchman laughed, -and made a similar proposal to him, as he approached quite close to -the edge of the water: thereupon the German advanced, but instead of -fighting they entered into a jocular conversation, and parted very good -friends. Our division again went to the right about, and moved off -to the rear; fortunately the road continued very wide, which enabled -us to march in column of quarter distance, with screwed bayonets, -and ready to form squares. The soldiers of the division bore the wet -and privation with unexampled fortitude; nor did they lose their -organization. At three o'clock in the afternoon, things began to look -black; we heard that all the baggage had been captured, and that -Lieut.-Gen. Sir E. Paget was taken prisoner; all this having occurred -on the very road which it was absolutely necessary for us to traverse. - -The Marquis of Wellington at this time joined us, and continued riding -on the left flank, and quite close to our column, for he could not -well join the main body of his army, as the enemy's horse scoured -the road, and all our cavalry had retired. It was one of the chances -of war, and could not be wondered at in a forest of such an amazing -extent, that the army was three days passing through it. The French -heavy horse continued to accompany us on each flank amongst the trees, -and frequently spoke to the soldiers in the ranks. We made two halts, -to keep the men fresh, and in good order to engage, and then resumed -a quick march, but not so rapid as to cause any soldiers to be left -behind. The column preserved a profound silence; not a shot was -discharged, for, had we begun to fire, the noise would have brought -from all quarters the enemy, who could not be aware otherwise of our -isolated march. - -Just before we reached a break in the forest, at four o'clock, it -was absolutely necessary to detach a few skirmishers to prevent the -audacious French horse from almost mixing in our ranks. The enemy's -infantry were now coming up, mixed with their cavalry. Owing to the -reverberation in the wood and dense atmosphere, the report of each -musket sounded as loud as a three-pound mountain gun. The Marquis of -Wellington made a sweep round the column, to examine for the best -fighting ground, while a lively firing of musketry took place close -on the left, and in rear of our column, intermixed with the shouting -of our assailants and the whizzing of bullets. As we emerged from the -forest, to our surprise we were saluted on the left by a number of -the enemy's cannon, posted on a high hill just above San Muñoz. The -division broke into double time across the plain, about half a mile, -and made for the ford of the river Helebra. The second brigade branched -off to the right to cross elsewhere, to extend a line of defence behind -its banks. The seventh division was already formed in close columns on -the other side of the river, near San Muñoz, and suffering terribly -from the effect of the round shot. - -Two squadrons of our heavy dragoons came forward to protect us over the -valley. We had no sooner reached the river, than we plunged in up to -our middles in water, (under a sharp fire of artillery,) and we were -obliged to scramble up the steep bank, (having missed the ford,) by -which the troops were thrown into a momentary malformation. While we -were forming up in a hurried manner behind the horse-artillery, who -were drawn up to protect the ford, the Marquis of Wellington rode up in -front of the left of number one company, and looked placidly at them, -saying, "The enemy must not cross here." At this moment a round-shot -carried away one of our officer's legs, and knocked a German hussar -from his horse, leaving his hands hanging by a few shreds or sinews, -notwithstanding which he got up and walked off, with an agonized -countenance, and his head bent forward, resting on his breast. - -The three companies of our regiment who had been left in the opposite -wood, now issued out at full speed, pursued by the enemy, and were -obliged to run the gauntlet across the plain, with the round shot of -both armies flying over their heads. The second brigade, which had -already formed on our left, were keeping up a sharp fire of musketry, -to oppose the French crossing the river. A Portuguese regiment was -stationary, in close column, two hundred yards behind us. I saw three -cannon-balls strike in precisely the same spot, carrying away a number -of men each time. The firing of artillery and musketry continued until -after dark, and then gradually died away, when the soldiers of the -contending armies approached the river for water, and amicably chatted -to each other in their different languages. - -The French infantry wore broad-toed shoes, studded with nails, -wide trowsers of Spanish brown, a brown hairy knapsack, a broad -leather-topped cap, decorated with a ball, and shining scales, and -fronted by a brazen eagle, with extended wings. In action they usually -appeared in light grey great coats, decorated with red or green worsted -epaulettes, belts outside, without any breastplates, with short -sleeves, slashed at the cuff, to enable them to handle their arms, -and prime and load with facility. Their flints were excellent, but -the powder of their cartridges coarse; that of the British army was -remarkably fine, but their flints were indifferent. - -During this day the rain had held up for eight hours, but after dark -it again fell heavily. Beef was served out, without biscuit; our -cooking was speedily made, as we toasted it on ramrods. After another -wretched night, about two hours before daybreak, the soldiers began to -clean their arms, by the light of the fires, to prepare for the coming -morning. Day broke, but the enemy made no attempt to molest us, and -for two tedious hours we continued without any order to move, owing to -a stream, four hundred yards, behind us, which had detained the other -division some hours in crossing it. As we moved off, the dead and the -dying lay under the trees, (the trunks of many of them in flames,) pale -and shivering, with their bloody congealed bandages, imploring us not -to leave them in that horrible situation, in the middle of the forest -in the depth of winter. However, to attempt to afford them assistance -was impossible. Every individual had enough to do to drag himself -along, after three days' privation. The stream we had to cross was only -a few yards wide, but so deep that the soldiers were forced to cross it -by single files over a tree, which had been felled and thrown across; -had the enemy been aware of such an obstacle, we should have had a -terrible struggle at this point; but the French army had suffered so -much during the pursuit that they could no longer follow, and became -glad of a halt; and we equally glad to get rid of such disagreeable -neighbours. Numerous soldiers from the other divisions of the army, -(which retired in three columns,) fell out, and kept up a heavy firing, -right and left, in the wood at wild pigs, or any other animal they -could see. Many hundreds of these exhausted men fell into the hands of -the enemy, and when they arrived at Salamanca, _El Rey Joseph_ gave the -English prisoners a _pecéta_ each. - -During this day's march the weather was fine, but the road was -overflowed, and up to the men's knees for many miles. Two hours after -dark we drew up on a bare hill, clear of the forest; the atmosphere -became frosty, but there was scarcely any wood to be obtained, and we -spent another shivering night (without rations), gazing at the starry -heavens, and counting the dreary hours. - -Early on the 19th we moved off. The twentieth Portuguese regiment, -eight hundred strong, which had come from the south with Col. Skerret, -and had been attached to our division the morning we left Madrid, could -only now muster half that number of men in the ranks, owing to the cold -and not being accustomed to campaigning; and they were obliged to fall -out of the column of march to halt for their stragglers. The light -division still continued in wonderfully good order, and reached Rodrigo -on that day, and bivouacked a mile from the walls of the town, without -suffering scarcely any loss, except from the enemy's balls the day -they were engaged. - -Six divisions of the army entered Portugal for winter cantonments; the -second division crossed the Sierra de Gata, and took up its quarters -in the vicinity of Coria, in Spanish Estremadura, and the light -division remained near Rodrigo, on the left bank of the Agueda; the -head-quarters of the first brigade being at Gallegos, and those of the -second brigade at Fuente de Guinaldo. - -The Marquis of Wellington established his head-quarters at Frenada, in -Portugal, as usual. There Señor Fuentes, a good-looking Spaniard, used -to play on the guitar, and sing romances. One air in particular I well -remember hearing him sing at a dinner party at Gallegos; it was also -sung by the Spanish _muchachas_ in all the _puéblos_ and hamlets, soon -after the Duke of Ragusa's defeat at Salamanca. The conclusion of each -stanza was as follows:— - - Adónde vayas Marmont? Adónde vayas Marmont, - Tan tempráno de a mañana? Si te cogé Vellington; - Ah! Marmont, Marmont, Marmont! - -[Footnote 43: On the right as we were retiring, but, when we faced -about, on the left flank, _à la militaire_.] - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - - The light division reviewed by the Commander-in-chief—Reinforcements - from England—The army again in motion—Encampment of the light - division between Rodrigo and Salamanca—The German hussars—March - to Salamanca, the French retreating—Scene in the Cathedral at - Salamanca—Crossing the Tormes, and progress of the march—Passage - of the Esla—Affair at Toro with the French heavy - horse—Concentration of the whole army, and march through Valencia - towards Burgos—An accommodating priest—Capture of French baggage - and prisoners—Details of the battle of Vittoria. - - -Early in May, 1813, the light division, commanded by Major-Gen. Baron -C. Alten, formed line in the plain, near Gallegos, with one regiment of -the German hussars, and a brigade of horse artillery, for the purpose -of passing in review before the Marquis of Wellington, who appeared on -the ground encircled by a numerous and brilliant staff. - -During the winter we had remained cantoned by regiments on the Spanish -frontier, on the left of the Agueda, in the different villages, -during which period we, us well as the whole army, had received -various reinforcements from England, the greater proportion of whom -had continued in their quarters in Portugal, and near Coria, in -Estremadura. The 10th, 15th, and 18th hussars had recently landed at -Lisbon, and also the household brigade, consisting of two regiments of -Life Guards and the Royal Horse Guards. Every effort had been made by -the General-in-chief to make the infantry as effective as possible, and -the great depôt was removed from _Belem_ to _Santarem_. Previously to -our advance, the great coats belonging to the soldiers were delivered -into store, it being considered that the blanket was a sufficient -covering for them at night, the more particularly as tents were served -out for the use of the whole army, in the proportion of three to -each company, to be carried by the mules that had formerly conveyed -the iron camp-kettles for cooking;[44] instead of which a light tin -kettle, between every six men, was substituted, to be strapped on -their knapsacks, and carried alternately on the march. Each man was -provided with a reasonable supply of necessaries, including three pairs -of shoes, and an extra pair of soles and heels, in his knapsack. The -daily allowance of rations for soldiers and officers consisted of one -pound of beef, one of biscuit, and a small allowance of rum or wine; -the former was invariably preferred by the old soldiers, although -frequently much adulterated by the mischievous _capitras_.[45] - -The left of the army being already in motion from the interior of -Portugal, the second and light divisions concentrated on the 20th of -May; the former crossed the Sierra de Gata, near Baños, the following -morning, which brought it in communication with our right; our -division forded to the right bank of the Agueda the same day, and -encamped on the skirts of the extensive forest situated between Rodrigo -and Salamanca. The German hussars rode up, smoking their pipes, and -singing some delightful airs, their half squadrons at intervals joining -in chorus. We had heard that the hussar brigade was to supersede these -veterans, and to act with our division: the whole of us left our -canvas, and lined the road to greet our old friends and companions of -out-post duty. The hussars became so much affected by our cheering, -that tears rolled down many of their bronzed faces. "Oh!" said they, -"we are always glad to see the old _lighty division_, who will ever -live in our hearts." - -On the third day we had arrived near San Muñoz, and encamped on the -river Helebra. Many of the forest trees were covered with beautiful -blossoms, and the plumaged tribe hopped from branch to bough, while -here and there a solitary skeleton lay bleached, and reminded us -of those starved, drenched, and wounded victims, the recollection -of whose cries for help still rang in our ears, as we had marched -past them on our retreat from Burgos and Madrid the previous winter. -Now, how changed the scene! the inmost recesses of this extensive -wood resounded with many voices, and a long line of animated troops -continued to thread its mazes and winding roads. On this day the -household brigade of cavalry came up; their horses' backs were in a -very bad state, owing to the heat of the weather. In the evening, while -sitting at our tent-door, we observed one of the Germans making up his -fat horse for the night, and afterwards employing himself in sharpening -his sabre with a stone. "That man," remarked an officer, "seems to be -preparing for single combat." - -Early on the 26th we halted on the verge of the wood, within a short -distance of Salamanca; our cavalry and some guns pushed onwards, -and crossed to the right bank of the Tormes by two fords above the -town, where they found three thousand French infantry preparing to -retrograde. Our cavalry made a demonstration to charge them, but the -enemy presented so firm a front, and then retired in such good order, -that it was thought advisable not to attempt to break them, until a -few discharges of artillery should have shaken the resolution of these -veterans: which that course failed to accomplish. They at length formed -a junction with a part of the French troops retiring from Alba de -Tormes. - -Our dragoons were then drawn off, and the enemy continued to retreat -without farther molestation. In the afternoon our division moved -forward, and took up their ground in a wood immediately overlooking the -left bank of the Tonnes, a league below Salamanca. - -The next morning, as there had not been any order for the troops to -move, I mounted my horse, and, in company with some other officers, -rode into Salamanca. The inhabitants expressed their congratulations on -seeing us again, although our reception was not of that warm character -shown towards us in the preceding summer; and, indeed, it would have -been out of all reason to expect to find countenances decked with joy, -when contending armies had trampled down and destroyed their corn over -a fertile plain of many leagues in extent. - -On entering the great square, we observed the principal inhabitants, -full-dressed, flocking towards the cathedral, a very handsome stone -structure, where we alighted, and, following the crowd through the -grand entrance, found a great multitude waiting the arrival of the -Marquis of Wellington, who soon entered, escorted by a numerous -retinue of Spanish generals and other staff officers, in a variety -of uniforms magnificently embroidered. I was much struck with the -simplicity of the Marquis of Wellington's attire, who wore a very -light grey pelisse coat, single-breasted, without a sash, and a white -neck-handkerchief, with his sword buckled round his waist, underneath -the coat, the hilt merely protruding, and a cocked-hat under his arm. -He stood with his face towards the altar during the prayer offered up -for the success of our arms in the approaching struggle, (for during -this time the divisions of our centre were branching off and marching -over dusty plains towards Miranda de Douro, to support the extreme -left, under General Sir T. Graham, which had crossed to the right bank -of the Douro, east of Lamego, had passed through the defiles of Tras -os Montes, and was marching on the right of that river through Leon, -towards Carvajales and Tabara, to outflank the enemy;) the deep-toned -organ played some fine pieces during the ceremony; and at the -conclusion, the ladies, by way of a benediction, dipped their delicate -fingers into a marble basin at the door, _and sprinkled us with holy -water_. - -At daylight on the 28th, we forded the Tormes, and continued a forward -movement along a winding road, through a rich valley compassing the -base of a hill, on the summit of which stood a number of videttes -belonging to the household brigade; and although the men and horses -looked gigantic, and bore a fine appearance, still the idea of out-post -duty for the heavy cavalry caused much merriment in the ranks. At -the expiration of a long march, we encamped in the vicinity of Aldea -de Figueras, on the high road to Toro, where we halted four days; the -second division, under General Hill, besides Portuguese and Spanish -auxiliaries, were encamped half a league to our right, for the purpose -of keeping in check and watching the movements of the enemy stationed -on the right of the Douro, and also at Polios and Ruêda, situated about -two leagues from Tor-de-Sillas, on the left bank of the river, where -the French still remained in some force, hovering on our right flank. -Under all these circumstances, it became necessary to be vigilant, -as the left and centre of the army were now moving to pass the river -Esla, under the immediate orders of the General-in-chief, who had left -Salamanca to join them, and to superintend this delicate movement in -person, which he had caused to be executed for the purpose of turning -the enemy's right, and to threaten his northern line of communications. - -Owing to this manœuvre, the French army was thrown on two sides of a -square, and only possessed the chance of extending a line on the Esla, -by throwing their left forward against General Hill at the moment -when he was separated from the bulk of our army; (thereby making -Madrid the base of their operations). However, _El Rey Joseph_ had -not concentrated his army, and showed no inclination to keep open his -communication with that capital; and therefore he gave up the line of -the Esla and the Douro without a blow. - -The passage of the Esla having been effected on the 31st, without -opposition, the Marquis of Wellington moved on Toro, where he arrived -on the 2nd of June, and the hussar brigade fell in with a strong body -of the enemy's heavy horse between that town and Morales, where they -overthrew the French, after a very vigorous charge, and made upwards -of two hundred prisoners. Our division on this day made a forced -march over a bare country, halted to cook during the heat of the day, -then resumed its movement, and reached the vicinity of Toro in the -evening, where we encamped among some luxuriant, well-watered vegetable -gardens on the left bank of the Douro, the sight of which proved very -refreshing after a long, sultry, and weary march; and it was most -gratifying to observe with what zest and relish the officers and -soldiers devoured the raw cabbages, onions, and melons. - -The next morning our division crossed the fine stone bridge. The centre -arch of it had been blown up and entirely destroyed. The soldiers, -therefore, in the first instance, descended by ladders placed close -together, communicating by planks thrown across to the steps of the -opposite ladders, by which the men again ascended, thereby surmounting -the obstacle with little difficulty, and then marching through Toro, -which is situated on high ground on the right bank of the river, and -commands a fine prospect for some leagues over the surrounding country. - -The artillery and baggage forded one hundred yards above the bridge, -without difficulty; the water being only knee-deep at this season of -the year. We encamped half a league from the town. In the afternoon -I walked in to see the prisoners who had been taken by the English -hussars on the previous day, all of whom bore a very martial -appearance, and many of their countenances were so covered with hair, -that it was difficult to distinguish their features: one man, in -particular, had a long red beard which reached down to his middle; he -wore a brass helmet, surmounted with tiger's skin, with a bunch of -horse hair hanging down his back from the casque. One hundred of these -French dragoons, who had not been wounded, were assembled to march -to the rear. Their officer maintained a profound silence, and looked -angry and highly indignant, with a large stick over his shoulder, -stuck through the middle of a four-pound Spanish loaf. The whole of -the captured, raw-boned horses, were huddled together in a court-yard, -and bore evident marks of bad provender, escort duties, marches, and -countermarches; and nearly the whole of them had the most horrible sore -backs, almost frying in the sun, while innumerable flies settled on and -irritated the poor animals. A number of English medical officers were -busily employed dressing the wounds of the French cavalry; some of them -were of a most shocking description, from sabre cuts on their heads and -faces. A Frenchman, of enormous stature, lay extended with a dreadful -thrust from a pike, which had been inflicted by a cruel Guerilla, some -hours after he had surrendered himself a prisoner. A medical officer -was on his knees trying to bleed him, and held his wrist, moving his -arm gently, having made an incision in hopes of causing the blood to -flow; but every effort to save his life was useless; the dying soldier -nodded thanks to the doctor, and soon after expired. - -On the 4th, the whole army being concentrated[46], it moved in three -columns, the centre in the direction of Palencia. The country was -beautifully diversified, studded with castles of Moorish architecture, -realizing the descriptions given in the chivalric days of Ferdinand -and Isabella. The sun shone brilliantly, the sky was of heavenly blue, -and clouds of dust marked the line of march of glittering columns. -The joyous peasantry hailed our approach, and came dancing towards -us, singing and beating time on their small tambourines; and, when we -were passing through the principal street of Palencia, the nuns, from -the upper windows of a convent, showered down rose-leaves on our dusty -heads, and the inhabitants declared, by way of compliment, that the -Oxford Blues were nearly as fine as the Spanish royal horse guards. Our -division took up their ground close to the town, and on the exact spot -where the French had bivouacked the same morning. - -Continuing our advance towards Burgos on the 12th, the right of our -army made a demonstration to attack the enemy, who had taken post -there, while our division brought up its left shoulder, and hovered, -with the hussar-brigade, on their right flank; the left of our army -halted, until the effect of this movement was ascertained, by which -the enemy were again thrown on two sides of a square. The day was -remarkably cold and cloudy. - -Towards morning on the 13th, we heard a great noise, which we -considered distant thunder, but it was soon known that the enemy had -blown up part of the works of the Castle of Burgos, and had retreated. -The left of our army was now pushed on in echelon, to turn by a flank -movement the line of the Ebro, while our right and centre hung on the -enemy's rear, ready to engage them in support of this movement. The -country here was extremely wild and mountainous[47]. - -On the 15th we descended by a narrow pass, about a league in extent, -which had the appearance of being scarped; the road was extremely -rugged, and, winding suddenly, we found ourselves in the valley of the -Ebro, which extended some distance to our right. The beauty of the -scenery was far beyond description, and the rocks rose perpendicularly -on every side, without any visible opening to convey an idea of any -outlet. This enchanting valley is studded with picturesque hamlets, -orchards of cherry trees, and fruitful gardens, producing every -description of vegetation. We crossed the river by the Puente Arenas, -where we saw a number of sturdy, thick-legged women, loaded with fresh -butter, from the mountains of the Asturias. I had not tasted that -commodity for more than two years, therefore it will be unnecessary to -describe how readily I made a purchase, and carried the treasure in -front of my saddle, until we had encamped; but, as ill luck would have -it, there was not any biscuit served out on that day. - -The next morning we ascended by a most romantic winding road for a -league, and obtained a view of the tents of the fifth division, who -had made a _détour_ to outflank the enemy, and to secure the passage -of these narrow defiles. While passing a village, I asked several of -the inhabitants to sell me some bread; a shake of the head was the only -answer returned. I at last caught a glimpse of a priest, and, as I was -determined to have bread to eat with the fresh butter, I made towards -him, saluted him by a most gracious bend, pulled out a _pecéta_, -and requested he would procure me a loaf; he very good-naturedly -acquiesced, and soon again made his appearance with a three-pounder, -and also returned half my money: he seemed pleased, so was I, and, -more courteous salutes having been exchanged between us, I rejoined -the ranks. Travelling onwards, we perceived a large building on the -side of a hill, with something white waving at each window, which, on a -nearer view, we perceived to be a convent, and the nuns shaking their -white handkerchiefs to greet our approach. On taking up our ground for -the day, the baggage made its appearance, and ample justice was done to -the bread and butter by myself and companions. - -On the 18th, while we were advancing left in front, along a narrow -road, shrouded by overhanging woods and high mountains, a hussar -informed us that the enemy were at hand. On reaching a more open space, -we observed a brigade of the French drawn up behind a rivulet, and -their front covered by a few houses. Two battalions of the rifle corps, -supported by the 52nd, instantly attacked them, and, after some smart -firing, the enemy gave ground. During this skirmish our regiment turned -off the road to the left, and formed line on a hill, as a rallying -point, in case of need; when, to our astonishment, we observed the -head of another column of the French issuing, by a road parallel to -us, out of an opening between two perpendicular rocks, and in rear of -our second brigade, already engaged. The other regiments composing -our brigade scrambled over the rocks, to endeavour to attack their -left, which the enemy perceiving, turned off the road, and made for a -hill: the 52nd brought up its left shoulder, and actually formed line -facing to the rear, at a run, and encountered the enemy on the crest of -the hill, who, the moment they met that regiment, turned round, and, -throwing off their packs, fled to the mountains, keeping up a running -fight. The second brigade was now engaged front and rear. - -During this desultory _fusillade_, the baggage belonging to the French -division debouched from the already described outlet. The whole of the -enemy's escort huddled together, and made a most desperate resistance -amidst the rocks, while their affrighted animals ran loose, and were -seen on the highest pinnacles of precipices. Nearly the whole fell into -our hands, besides three hundred wounded and prisoners. The position of -the division became singular after the fight, with its centre at the -village St. Millan, and keeping a look-out to the front and rear. The -enemy had also attacked the left of our army, near Osma, in hopes that, -by causing such a delay, it would enable these two brigades, marching -from Frias, to form a junction with their main body. - -On the 19th we moved forward, and, at about ten o'clock in the morning, -part of the fourth division became engaged with the light troops of -the enemy. Our division then made a short _détour_, and turned the -left of the French, who precipitately retired towards Vittoria. The -next day we halted, and the army took up a line on the river Bayas, -after long and arduous marching. The Marquis of Wellington approached -the river Zadorra, which covered the enemy's position, for the purpose -of examining the ground they occupied, and pointing out to different -generals the various debouches, and their necessary line of attack, in -the event of the French continuing to occupy the same ground on the -following day. - -On the 21st, we stood to our arms, and moved forward in darkness, some -time before daybreak. A heavy shower of rain fell; but, as morning -dawned, the clouds dispersed, and the sun arose with fiery splendour. -A towering and steep ridge of mountains rose abruptly from the valley -on our right, which the Spaniards climbed early in the morning, at -first unopposed; the ascent was so steep, that, while moving up it, -they looked as if they were lying on their faces, or crawling. They -were supported, and soon followed across the river Zadorra, and through -the town of Puebla de Arlanzon, by part of the second division, for -the purpose of attacking the left of the enemy, who were posted on -the heights above Puebla de Arlanzon and Sabijana de Alava, where the -contest, at the former place, began at nine o'clock, amongst deep -ravines, rocks and precipices. The second division becoming heavily -engaged with the enemy, under all these disadvantages it could only -maintain the ground already won, and the firing seemed to die away -in that quarter. Our right centre, composed of the light and fourth -divisions, continued to advance, as also the great bulk of our cavalry. - -At about ten o'clock, on ascending a rising ground, we observed the -French army drawn out in order of battle, in two lines, their right -centre resting on a round hill, their left centre occupying a gentle -ascent, and their left hid from view on the heights of Puebla; the -river Zadorra ran at the foot of this formidable position, and then -took a sudden turn, embracing and running parallel to their right -flank, towards Vittoria. - -_El Rey Joseph_, surrounded by a numerous staff, was stationary on -the hill, overlooking his own right and centre. The French army was -unmasked, without a bush to prevent the sweeping of their artillery, -the charging of their cavalry, or the fire of their musketry from -acting with full effect on those who should attempt to pass the bridges -in their front, and which it was absolutely necessary to carry before -we could begin the action in the centre. When within a short distance -of the river, five of the French light horse advanced on the main road -to look out, and were overtaken by an equal number of our dragoons, -when they wheeled about and attempted to make off, without effect; -they were assailed on the near side, when three instantly fell from -their saddles, covered with sabre wounds, and their affrighted horses -galloped at random. - -The light division left the road when within one mile of the river, and -drew up in contiguous close columns behind some shelving rocks near -Olabarre, with the hussar brigade dismounted on the left; the fourth -division made a corresponding movement, by branching off to the right, -and took post opposite their intended point of attack; the greater -part of our heavy cavalry and dragoons remained in reserve, to succour -the central divisions, in case the enemy should advance before the -third and seventh divisions should have taken up their ground on the -enemy's right flank. The first and fifth divisions, with two brigades -of Portuguese, a Spanish division, and two brigades of dragoons, -were making a _détour_ from Murguia, to place themselves on the line -of the enemy's retreat, towards St. Sebastian; the sixth division -remained some leagues in the rear of our army to guard the stores at -Medina. Gen. Clausel's division was manœuvring on our right, but not -sufficiently near on this day to give much cause of apprehension. - -All the movements of our army required the nicest calculations, both -for the attack and defence; for at this time the four great columns -advancing were separated by difficult rocks and a rugged country, -interspersed with deep gulleys, narrow roads, and scattered hamlets. -The enemy were again under the painful necessity, for the third time in -one month, of manœuvring on two sides of a square; and the first cannon -fired by General Graham, at Abechucho and Gamarra Major,[48] must have -been to Joseph and Marshal Jourdan, (his Major-General,) like a shock -of electricity: all in an instant was riot and confusion in Vittoria; -the baggage stuck fast, blocking up all the roads, and even the fields. - -At half-past eleven o'clock the Marquis of Wellington led the way -by a hollow road, followed by the light division, which he placed -unobserved amongst some trees, exactly opposite the enemy's right -centre, and within two hundred yards of the bridge of Villoses, which -we understood was to be carried at the point of the bayonet. I felt -anxious to obtain a view, and, leisurely walking between the trees, I -found myself at the edge of the wood, and within a very short distance -of the enemy's cannon, planted with lighted matches ready to apply to -them. Had the attack begun here, the French never could have stood to -their guns so near the thicket; or at least the riflemen would have -annihilated them. The General-in-chief was now most anxiously looking -out for the third and seventh divisions to make their appearance. We -had remained some time in the wood, when a Spanish peasant told the -Marquis of Wellington that the enemy had left one of the bridges across -the Zadorra unprotected, and offered his services to lead us over it. -Our right brigade instantly moved to its left _by threes_, at a rapid -pace, along a very uneven and circuitous path, (which was concealed -from the observation of the French by high rocks,) and reached the -narrow bridge which crossed the river to Yruna. The 1st rifles led the -way, and the whole brigade following, passed at a run, with firelocks -and rifles ready cocked, and ascended a steep road of fifty yards, at -the top of which was an old chapel, which we had no sooner cleared, -than we observed a heavy column of French on the principal hill, and -commanding a bird's-eye view of us. However, fortunately, a convex -bank formed a sort of _tête de pont_, behind which the regiments -formed at full speed, without any word of command. Two round shots -came amongst us; the second severed the head from the body of our -bold guide, the Spanish peasant. The soldiers were so well concealed, -that the enemy ceased firing. Our post was most extraordinary, as we -were at the elbow of the French position, and isolated from the rest -of the army, within one hundred yards of the enemy's advance, and -absolutely occupying part of their position on the left of the river, -without any attempt being made by them to dislodge us; scarcely the -sound of a shot, from any direction, struck on the ear, and we were in -momentary expectation of being immolated; and, as I looked over the -bank, I could see _El Rey Joseph_, surrounded by at least five thousand -men, within eight hundred yards of us. The reason he did not attack -is inexplicable, and, I think, cannot be accounted for by the most -ingenious narrator. - -Gen. Sir James Kempt expressed much wonder at our critical position, -and our not being molested, and sent his aide-de-camp at speed across -the river for the 15th Hussars, who came forward singly, and at a -gallop, up the steep path, and dismounted in rear of our centre. The -French dragoons coolly, and at a very slow pace, came within fifty -yards to examine, if possible, the strength of our force, when a few -shots from the rifles induced them to decamp. I observed three bridges, -within a quarter of a mile of each other, at the elbow of the enemy's -position. We had crossed the centre one, while the other two, right and -left, where still occupied by the French artillery; at the latter, the -enemy had thrown up an earth entrenchment. - -We continued in this awkward state of suspense for half an hour, when -we observed the centre of the enemy drawing off by degrees towards -Vittoria, and also the head of the third division rapidly debouching -from some rocks on our left near the hamlet of Mendoza, when the -battery at Tres Puentes opened upon them, which was answered by two -guns from the horse artillery on the right of the river. Some companies -of the rifle corps sprang from the ground, where they lay concealed, -and darted forward, opening a galling fire on the left flank of the -enemy's gunners, at great risk to themselves of being driven into the -water, as the river ran on their immediate left, while the French -cavalry hovered on their right; however, so well did this gallant band -apply their loose balls, that the enemy limbered up their guns, and -hastily retired; and the third division, at a run, crossed the bridge -of Tres Puentes, cheering, but unopposed.[49] - -The enemy withdrew the artillery from the bridges in their centre at -two o'clock, P. M., and were forming across the high road to Vittoria. -The third division had no sooner closed up in contiguous columns, than -General Picton led them forward in very handsome style, in column, -by a flank movement, so as to place them exactly opposite the French -centre. The fourth division directly after crossed the river by the -bridge of Nanclara, and were hurrying forward to support the right -flank of the third division; the seventh division also crossed the -bridge of Tres Puentes, supported by the second brigade of the light -division, and faced the small village of Marganta. Our heavy horse and -dragoons had deployed into line, on the other side of the river, so as -to communicate with the rear of the second division, (in the event of -their being driven back from the mountains,) or to support the centre -of the army, in case of any disaster. They made a brilliant display of -golden helmets and sparkling swords, glittering in the rays of the sun. - -Three divisions being in motion, the centre and left supported by the -light division and the hussar brigade, the battle began by a terrible -discharge on the third division, while they were deploying into line. -We closed up to them, behind a bank; when, with loud huzzas, they -rushed from behind it, into the village of Ariyez, with fixed bayonets, -amidst flashing small arms and rolling artillery, and, after a bloody -struggle, carried it. The enemy's artillery was within two hundred -yards of us, ploughing up the ground in our rear: fortunately, the -bank nearly covered us, during the time it was necessary to remain -inactive, to support the front attack, if needful. A Portuguese -regiment, attached to our brigade, had been detached for a short time, -and rejoined in close column; but, just before they reached the cover, -some round shot tore open their centre, and knocked over many men; and -such was the alarm of a Portuguese officer, at the whizzing of balls -and bursting of field shells, that he fell into an officer's arms, -weeping bitterly. For ten minutes at this point, what with dust and -smoke, it was impossible to distinguish any objects in front, save the -shadows of the French artillerymen serving the guns, and the shouts -of troops while forcing their way into the village. The smoke had -no sooner cleared away, than we came on the bodies of many dead and -gasping soldiers, stretched in the dust. The sharp fire of musketry -and artillery in the centre, announced it to be the point of contest. -The "advance" of the second division had been severely handled on the -mountains to our right, but they were now getting on as speedily as the -nature of the ground would admit, it being composed of deep ravines, -and such natural obstacles, as almost to delay their progress unopposed. - -The first and fifth divisions were engaged at Gamarra Major and -Abechucho, in front of the bridges over the Zadorra. These villages -were carried after a smart action, by which a position was gained -threatening the enemy's line of retreat by the high road to France, -running N.E. some distance close on the left of the river. The bridge -was attempted, but was found to be impracticable, until our centre had -forced the enemy to give up Vittoria. The different divisions in the -centre were exposed to a desultory fire, while passing the villages -of Gomecha and Luazu de Alava, and over broken ground, forming lines, -columns, or threading the windings of difficult paths, according to -the nature of the country, or the opposition of the enemy. The fourth -division pushed back the left centre of the French, and were fighting -successfully, and performing prodigies of valour, among crags and -broken ground. The seventh division now came in contact with the -enemy's right centre, which resisted so desperately, and galled them -from a wood and the windows of houses with such showers of bullets, -that victory for a short time was doubtful; however, the second brigade -of the light division coming up fresh and with closed ranks, assisted -by the seventh division, broke through all opposition at a run, and -routed the enemy at the point of the bayonet. The four divisions of the -centre continued to gain ground, shooting forward alternately, leaving -the killed and wounded scattered over a great extent of country. At six -o'clock in the evening, by a sort of running fight, with hard contests -at certain points, the centre of the army had gained five miles in -this amphitheatre; for General Hill's corps was on the mountains, and -General Graham was still on the right of the Zadorra. - -The Marquis of Wellington was in the middle of the battle, vigorously -driving the enemy, to finish that which the wings had so well begun. -First, General Hill's movement in the morning had caused the enemy to -weaken his left centre; then General Graham's attack induced him to -give up the front line of the Zadorra, without a shot (hardly) being -fired. - -At half-past six we were within one mile of the city of Vittoria, the -capital of Alava, situated in a fruitful valley; but the French army -now drew up, and showed such an imposing array in front of the town, -that our left centre facing _Ali_ was completely kept at bay, owing to -the blazing of one hundred pieces of cannon vomiting forth death and -destruction to all who advanced against them. This roaring of artillery -continued for more than an hour on both sides, with unabated vigour: -the smoke rolled up in such clouds, that we could no longer distinguish -the white town of Vittoria; the liquid fire marked the activity of the -French gunners. During this momentous struggle, the left centre of -the French covered a bare hill, and continued for a considerable time -immoveable; while, pouring their musketry into the now-thinned ranks -of the third division, it was doubtful whether the latter would be -able to keep their ground, under such a deadly fire from very superior -numbers: however, they maintained this dangerous post with heroic -firmness, having led the van throughout the thick of the battle. - -At this period of the action, it was absolutely necessary to strain -every nerve to win it before nightfall. The fourth division, on our -right, shot forward against a sugar-loaf hill, and broke a French -division, who retired up it in a confused mass, firing over each -other's heads, without danger to themselves, owing to the steepness of -its ascent. I was laughing at this novel method of throwing bullets, -when one struck me on the sash, and fell at my feet, thereby cooling -my ardour for a short time: however, when a little recovered from the -pain, I picked it up, and put the precious bit of lead into my pocket. - -The scene that now presented itself was magnificently grand: the -valley resounded with confused sounds like those of a volcanic -eruption, and was crowded with red bodies of infantry and the smoking -artillery, while the cavalry eagerly looked for an opening to gallop -into the town. On one side of the field rose majestically the spiral -and purple-capped mountains, rearing their pinnacles on high; on the -other ran the glassy waters of the Zadorra: and the departing sun -threw his last beams to light up the efforts of those struggling in -dangerous strife for the deliverance of Spain. The enemy sacrificed all -their cannon, with the exception of eight pieces, while withdrawing -the right of their army behind the left wing, under cover of this -tremendous cannonade, which was the only chance yet left them to quit -the field in a compact body. This movement being executed in strange -confusion in and about Vittoria, their left wing retired by echelon of -divisions and brigades from the right, while delivering their fire; -and finally, their last division quitted the field with nearly empty -cartridge-boxes, and taking the road towards Pampeluna. The greater -portion of our army then brought up its left shoulder, or rather -wheeled the quarter circle to its right; which movement brought us on -the road to Pampeluna. The French managed to drag the eight pieces -of artillery across the fields for nearly a league; but, coming to -marshy ground, they stuck fast, and three of them rolled into a ditch, -with mules struggling to disentangle themselves from their harness. -Two pieces the enemy carried clear out of the action, leaving their -numerous cannon behind them, owing to the roads being so blocked up -with waggons. - -The dark shades of evening had already veiled the distant objects from -our view, and nothing of the battle remained, save the lightning -flashes of the enemy's small arms on our cavalry, who continued to -hover and threaten their rear guard. The road to Pampeluna was choked -up with many carriages, filled with imploring ladies, waggons loaded -with specie,[50] powder and ball, and wounded soldiers, intermixed with -droves of oxen, sheep, goats, mules, asses, _filles de chambre_, and -officers. In fact, such a jumble surely never was witnessed before; it -seemed as if all the domestic animals in the world had been brought to -this spot, with all the utensils of husbandry, and all the finery of -palaces, mixed up in one heterogeneous mass. - -Our brigade marched past this strange scene (I may well assert) of -domestic strife, in close column, nor did I see a soldier attempt to -quit the ranks, or show the most distant wish to do so; our second -brigade had not yet joined us, when we bivouacked a league from -Vittoria, on the road towards Pampeluna. The half-famished soldiers had -no sooner disencumbered themselves of their knapsacks, than they went -to forage; for even here the sheep and goats were running about in all -directions, and large bags of flour lay by the side of the road: in -fact, for miles round the town, the great wreck of military stores was -scattered in every direction. - -Night put an end to the contest: the growling of artillery ceased, -the enemy were flying in disorder, the British army bivouacked round -Vittoria, large fires were kindled and blazed up, and illumined the -country, over which were strewed the dead and suffering officers and -soldiers: strange sounds continued throughout the night, and passing -lights might be seen on the highest mountains and distant valleys. - -[Footnote 44: The iron kettles were very heavy, and were carried on -the backs of mules, one of which was attached to each company; but, -when near the enemy, and the baggage had been sent to the rear, these -unwieldy and capacious kettles were not at all times to be laid hold -of. Besides, it occupied the soldiers a considerable time to cook their -rations, particularly in the extensive plains, where only stubble -could be procured; and also during the rainy season, when the forest -trees were damp. I have often observed these ponderous kettles turned -bottom upwards, (at a time when there happened to be a scarcity of -provisions,) and encircled by ten or twelve weather-beaten soldiers, -who, with empty stomachs, stepped forward, one at a time, and each -of them in turn rubbing his blacking-brush on the sooty part of the -kettle, blacked his dusty shoes, cap-peak, canteen strap, and knapsack.] - -[Footnote 45: A muleteer, so called from having the charge of five -mules, for the use of which he received five dollars daily, and one -for himself. The biscuit, rum, and reserve ball-cartridge, were -carried by the mules;—under charge of the above men the lean Barbary -bulls and bullocks followed the different divisions on their line of -march—the whole originally provided by, and under the superintendence -of commissaries.] - -[Footnote 46: The British army was composed of eight divisions of -infantry, as usual. The first, of two brigades of Guards, with two of -the King's German Legion; the second, three brigades of British, and -three of Portuguese; the third, two of British, and one of Portuguese; -the fourth, fifth, sixth, and seventh, the same; the light division -of two brigades. Total, seventeen brigades of British infantry, two -of Germans, ten of Portuguese; besides other detachments. The cavalry -consisted of four brigades of Heavy, and four of Light Dragoons, and -two of Portuguese.] - -[Footnote 47: The enemy left in the Castle of Pancorbo, (which commands -the narrow and tremendous pass through which the high road runs towards -Miranda,) a small garrison, who soon afterwards surrendered themselves -prisoners to the Spaniards.] - -[Footnote 48: We could not see the extreme right of the enemy, -stationed near Arunnez, in front of Abechucho and Gamarra Major.] - -[Footnote 49: The French did not defend any of the seven bridges -across the Zadorra, except the two lying north and N.E. near Vittoria, -although it was their original intention to do so. The able manœuvres -of the General-in-chief threw the French generals into doubt: they -knew not whether to defend their left, their right, or their centre; -so they gave up one after the other, in conformity with the threatened -attacks of the Marquis of Wellington—which was exactly what he wished, -and most accommodating of his opponents, who thus left this intended -great battle without beginning or without end; for the French infantry -were not half beaten, before disjointed orders and crowds of baggage -blocking up the different roads, completed their confusion past all -remedy.] - -[Footnote 50: Some excesses were committed, although the greater part -of the booty, as usual, was bagged by the followers of the army.] - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - Pursuit of the enemy after the battle of Vittoria—Curious - spectacle and adventure in a French bivouac—Advance towards - Pampeluna, and repulse of the French rear-guard—Retreat of the - main body of the enemy into France—Reflections on the policy - of King Joseph—Change of the British route, and encampment - at Sanguessa—A casual dance—Return to Pampeluna—Expulsion - of the French from the valley of Bastan—The Basque - peasantry—Town of Bera—Position for covering Pampeluna and St. - Sebastian—Preparations for the attack of the latter place—The - command of the French assumed by the Duke of Dalmatia—A family - scene—Position of the French army. - - -On the morning of the 22d the atmosphere was overcast, and, being -without either cloaks or blankets to cover us, our uniforms were -very damp, owing to the heavy dew which had fallen during the night; -notwithstanding this, we arose from the ground exceedingly refreshed, -and gazed around, in mute amazement, at the prodigious wreck of -plundered Spain; for, beneath the French caissons, tumbrils, and brass -cannon, lay scattered _los doblones de oro, of the same virgin gold_ -which had been extracted in former times from the peaceful Incas -of the new world, by those vindictive Spanish adventurers, whose -avaricious veins boiled at that epoch with the hot blood of the Moors. - -At nine o'clock the rolling of the tenor and bass drums, and the clank -of cymbals, beating the marching time, announced that the leading -regiments of the division were in motion for the purpose of following -the enemy. During the rest of the day we marched through a valley, -enclosed by highlands, but did not overtake the enemy; the corn was -trampled down in many places, which showed they had moved in three -columns, whenever the ground would admit of it. Soon after dark, the -division bivouacked in a wood, a drizzling rain began to fall, and -we laid down under a tree to enjoy a nap, until the arrival of our -sumpter mules, heavily laden with flour and live stock, which we had -industriously scraped together from the refuse of Vittoria's field. -At midnight we were awakened, with keen appetites, by the well-known -neighing of the horses, and braying of donkeys; but none of the baggage -animals came our way, and during our anxious and broken slumbers the -night passed away, and the morning was ushered in by a sweeping rain, -which thoroughly saturated the troops before they began their march. -As I chanced to be for the duty of bringing up any stragglers who -might happen to lag behind, and my hungry messmate being also for the -baggage guard (of those who had come up), we journeyed together along -the sloppy road, when the conversation naturally turned on the splendid -victory gained over the French legions two days before, and we remarked -how gladdened the people of England would be on the receipt of such a -piece of glorious intelligence, while they would little imagine that -the greater portion of the victors would willingly lay down half their -laurels for a good breakfast. - -At the close of the evening we came to the remains of a French bivouac, -consisting of doors and window shutters torn from a neighbouring -village by the enemy, and propped up to screen them from the inclemency -of the weather. The sole person to be seen was a draggled-tailed old -woman, with a ragged petticoat, who, without noticing us, or once -raising her eyes, continued to pursue her interesting employment of -stirring up with a stick the mud (which was interspersed with fragments -of books and French novels,) or handling the broken fragments of -earthenware pots. Our curiosity was so much excited, that we reined in -our steeds to watch the progress of the wrinkled and copper-coloured -old dame, who, stretching out her bronzed and shrivelled arm, at last -laid hold of a whole utensil, and as she hastily splashed off, I caught -a glimpse of a chicken, resting on one leg, behind a shutter, which -somehow or other had escaped the ramrod of the enemy, and the hawk-eyed -soldiers of the pursuing column. Unsheathing my sabre, I jumped to the -ground, and sprang forward either to grasp or maim the destined prize; -however, the ground was in such a slimy state, that my speed availed -not; on the contrary it hastened my fall. My companion, disdaining to -take warning at my mishap, must needs himself begin a hot pursuit; -however, the practical experience convinced him of the slippery -obstacles; he soon lay sprawling on his face, plastered with mire: -suffice it, the bird escaped, and we resumed our wet saddles, in a -condition and appearance nowise enviable.—Soon after dark we came to a -river, but as the enemy had not sufficient time to blow up the bridge, -they had set fire to many of the houses in the main street of the town, -(which were still in flames,) in hopes of blocking up the way with the -burning rafters, which they had hurled from the roofs of the houses, in -expectation of preventing our artillery from passing through, and thus -harassing our retreat. The rain still falling in torrents, by degrees -extinguished the red embers of the smoking ruins, and prevented the -place from being entirely consumed to ashes. The soldiers of the -division crowded the houses, and huddled under cover wherever they -could find shelter. We were obliged to content ourselves by squeezing -into a small hovel, where the smoke found egress through the broken -roof; the floor was composed of slabs of rocks, in some places rearing -their primitive heads amid flints and loose stones. During the night -a ration of meat and six ounces of mouldy biscuit were served out, -which was greedily devoured by the victorious troops. It was in vain -that we scraped into a heap the stones of this macadamized lodge, for -the purpose of lying down; for bumps and holes only increased our -difficulties, and we were forced to ascend a broken ladder into a -wretched loft, swarming with vermin, to prick for a soft plank, whereon -to stretch our chilly limbs. - -At dawn, on the 24th, we were again on the road; the weather cleared -up, and the cheerful rays of the sun sparkled in the crystal drops, -which fell on our heads as we glided beneath the wet foliage. Having -advanced a few miles, we found the enemy's rear-guard posted at a bare -and steep pass, which covered the highroad, two leagues from Pampeluna. -The column having closed up, two battalions of the rifle corps -(supported by the horse artillery[51]) pushed forward, and, after a -sharp skirmish, they succeeded in pushing back the French rear-guard; -the guns then galloped up the road, and plied the round shot with -such effect, that they succeeded in dismounting one of the only two -cannon which the enemy had extricated from Vittoria's entangled field. -They had rolled the gun over a steep bank on the right of the paved -causeway, on which were regular league stones, and the first I had -noticed in Spain. One round shot had struck down seven of the enemy on -the left of the road; some of them were dead; others still alive, with -either legs or arms knocked off, or otherwise horribly mutilated, and -were crying out in extreme anguish, and imploring the soldiers to shoot -them, to put an end to their dreadful sufferings. A German hussar, in -our service, assured them that they would be kindly treated by our -medical officers. "No! no!" they vociferated, "we cannot bear to live. -Countryman, we are Germans, pray kill us, and shorten our miseries." - -Continuing onwards, we soon after drew up on the slope of a hill, -within sight of Pampeluna, the capital of Navarre; it is well -fortified, with a strong citadel, and situated near the banks of the -river Arga, in a fertile plain abounding with wheat, the ears of which -we rubbed between our hands to satisfy the cravings of hunger. Just -before our arrival, the enemy's scattered army had clustered beneath -the ramparts of the fortress, where they were in hopes of entering to -obtain rest and provisions; but the place was so scantily supplied, -that the gates were ordered to be barred against all intruders. From -this place an excellent road branches off in a north-westerly direction -to Tolosa; but as General Graham, with his corps, was marching direct -on that town, by the great road to France, it was of no avail to the -main body of the enemy, who were obliged to continue their retreat into -France, by Roncesvalles and other roads, merely leaving a rear-guard in -the valley of Bastan. - -The following morning we filed over a rugged and flinty mountain, -south-west of Pampeluna, from the summit of which we almost commanded -a bird's-eye view into the very heart of the town, garrisoned by four -thousand of the enemy. This place, well provisioned, should have -been fixed on for the grand base of Joseph's defensive and offensive -movements; for, had he made it the pivot of his operations, and opened -his line on Aragon, (and the strong holds in Catalonia, held by the -Duke of Albufera), his flanks would have been secured by the Ebro and -the Pyrenees, and would have thrown our army on two sides of a square, -and entangled it between two strong fortresses, and the labyrinths -of the Pyrenees. Most probably such a movement would have kept the -war from the immediate frontier of France, whence fresh troops, under -favourable circumstances, could debouch and attack our left face. From -political reasons, the time had not arrived for the decided invasion of -that country; besides, if it had, such an invasion could not have been -executed, so long as the enemy hovered in force on our right flank. - -Continuing our route, we crossed the river Arga, and entered the town -of Villalba: our baggage at last came up, and the Casa in which we were -quartered was enclosed by a good garden, well stocked with vegetables, -which was considered a piece of good fortune in those times. This -day, the 25th, General Graham overtook General Foy, retiring from the -vicinity of Bilboa, who, on hearing of the unhappy extent of the French -disasters at Vittoria, made an effort to block up the passage through -Tolosa, but the victorious English broke through all obstacles, and -continued to advance. In a few days the small garrison of Los Passages -surrendered themselves prisoners. Thus it was that the left wing of the -army had hardly halted since issuing from the _bowels of Portugal_, -until the precipitous bank of the river Bidassoa (which divided France -and Spain), put a stop for a time to its memorable march and victorious -career. - -On the 26th we had an idea that we should halt, but during the day we -were again under arms, (marching by an excellent road running S.S.E., -leading direct on Tafalla,) accompanied by the third and fourth -divisions, with a proportion of cavalry and artillery, to endeavour to -cut off General Clausel's corps, which had approached Vittoria the day -after the battle; but he also, being made acquainted with the total -route of _El Rey Joseph_, immediately countermarched on Logroño, and -thence to Tudella.[52] During the movements of the right and left wings -of the British army, General Hill, with the centre, showed front, and -_masked_ Pampeluna. - -The weather now cleared up, but continued variable during the whole -summer; the seasons here being totally different from the dry and -scorching heats in the more southern provinces, where the sun-burnt -mountains and vast plains, are covered, at this time of the year, with -a parched vegetation, or the remains of many cindered forests. - -Continuing our movement, we became once again extricated from the -mountainous regions, which had every where enclosed us for more than a -fortnight. The country was now open, and highly cultivated, with groups -of bold peasantry lining each side of the way, and greeting us by -crying _Vivan los Coluros, y viva el Réy Fernándo séptimo_; and, while -moving in the direction of Tudella, our enthusiastic hopes were raised -to the highest pitch, at the probability of reaching the venerable and -renowned city of Saragossa; but our line was all at once changed, and -by a forced march we entered the province of Aragon, passing through a -barbarous-looking country, barely peopled, (the forlorn _pueblos_ lying -wide asunder, the poor dwellings being mostly constructed of dried mud, -and plastered over with the same substance;) and at the expiration of -five days we reached Sanguessa, and encamped. - -Here we halted one day,[53] and, while promenading the town in the -evening, the soft notes of music floated in the air, and on a nearer -approach to the place whence the sounds issued, we were agreeably -saluted by the scraping and cheerful notes of violins. A crowd of -Spaniards had assembled round the door of the _Casa_, and on being -questioned by another officer and myself whether the ball was public, -"_Oh si señores_," answered they, "_es muy público_:" so, bustling up -the stone steps, and feeling our way along a dark passage, we found -ourselves, on opening a massive door, amongst many _señoritas_, with a -scarcity of _caballeros_. A staff-officer, who was the promoter of the -dance, expressed his gladness at so opportune an arrival. Although a -friend, we apologised to him for the apparent intrusion; but he was a -man of no ceremony, and declared it to be a lucky mistake; which turned -out to be the case, for we beat good waltz time during the whole night, -to the great satisfaction of the _señoritas_. - -On reaching the camp the following morning, the tents were already -struck, and the troops moving off on their return to Pampeluna. What -with the overpowering rays of the sun, the rising clouds of dust, and -our overnight's exertion, we were so overcome, that had it not been for -the kindly arms of the soldiers, we should have dropped from off our -horses, while fast asleep, dreaming of black-eyed _señoras, waltzing, -and precipices_! - -In two days we reached Pampeluna by a more direct road, but the men -began to flag, owing to irregular and poor feeding; besides which, we -had been marching for thirty-two days, with only two regular halts, -since quitting our camp between Toro and Salamanca; therefore, those -plagued and suffering from sore feet were under the painful necessity -(unless totally unable to proceed), of going on until they got well -again. I have often seen the blood soaking through the gaiters, and -over the heels of the soldiers' hard shoes, whitened with the dust. - -The general-in-chief having cleared his right flank, and again -condensed his right and centre round Pampeluna, debouched thence on -the 4th July, for the purpose of taking possession of the passes of -the western Pyrenees, and pushing the enemy's vanguard out of the -valley of Bastan into France; which was executed by part of the second -division, on the 7th. Our division, forming the left centre of the -army, flanked this movement. - -Our route at first lay through verdant and luxuriant valleys, -abounding with apple orchards, groves of chesnut trees, and small -fields of Indian corn; from thence we ascended by broken roads, over -rugged mountains, which were cracked in many places into vast chasms, -overhung with oak trees of enormous magnitude, whose ponderous and wide -spreading branches cast their dark shadows over the dried water-courses -and natural grottos, formed by the intricate mazes of the underwood, -entwining around the peaked and overhanging rocks, which in many places -were garnished with wild strawberries. - -The third day after leaving Pampeluna, we descended from the mountains -into the compact little town of St. Estevan, situated on the rocky -and woody bank of the clear stream of the Bidassoa, over which a good -stone bridge communicates with the opposite side of the river: here we -halted, with full leisure to explore the lovely scenery, which on every -side encircled this secluded valley. - -Our curiosity was much excited by the peculiar method of washing in -this part of the country, the women squatting, or rather sitting on -their bare heels, with their lower garments tightly pulled about them, -whilst others stood in the river rinsing the linen, with their only -petticoat tied in a knot very high up betwixt their legs, displaying -the most perfect symmetry; and it was morally impossible to refrain -from admiring the natural and graceful forms of these nymphs. - -The dress of the Basque peasantry is totally different from that of -other provinces, and many of the females possess very fair complexions -and are extremely beautiful, being a happy mixture of _las brunas y -las blondas_; their hair is combed back without any curls, and plaited -into a long tail, which hangs down below the hips; their jackets are -of blue or brown cloth, and pinned so exceedingly tight across the -breast, that the bosom seldom swells to any size; the woollen and only -petticoat worn by them is of a light or mixed colour, reaching to the -middle of the calf of the leg; and, with the exception of the bosom -being so compressed, they are divinely formed. They are also remarkably -nimble of foot, and always carry their little merchandize on the top of -the head; they seldom wear shoes or stockings, except on Sundays and -saints' days. The men go bare-necked, and wear a blue cap, or bonnet, -(precisely similar to those worn in the highlands of Scotland,) with -bushy hair hanging in ringlets on their shoulders. In hot weather -they usually carry the short blue, or brown jacket, slung over the -left shoulder, and with long and rapid strides, or at times, breaking -into a short run, they traverse the steep acclivities with their shoes -and stockings frequently slung on a long pole, which they either carry -sloped over the shoulder, or grasped in the middle like a javelin, and -use it for the purpose of assisting them in scaling or descending the -crags, or frightful precipices. Their waistcoats are double-breasted, -without a collar; the breeches are of brown cloth, or blue velveteen, -fitting tight over the hips, (without braces), and reaching to the cap -of the knee, where they are usually unbuttoned, to give full play to -the limbs; a red sash is twisted round the loins. They are a gaunt, -sinewy, and remarkably active race of men, of sallow complexions; their -limbs are admirably proportioned, and they are as upright as a dart. - -After a rest of two days, we marched towards Bera by a narrow road, -running parallel on the right bank of the river Bidassoa, the greater -part of the way being blocked up with large stones, or fragments of -rock, which had tumbled from the overhanging cliffs, that were rent in -many places into terrific chasms, partly choked with huge trunks or -roots of trees, through which overwhelming torrents gushed from the -mountains during the heavy rains and formed vast cataracts, often -swelling the river into a foaming and angry torrent. Its rocky bed is -fordable at this time of the year, and varies from thirty, to more -than a hundred yards in breadth. Owing to the badness of the road, a -number of infantry soldiers were employed in clearing away obstacles, -or lifting the wheels of the cannon, with handspikes, over the loose -fragments or projecting slabs of rock, which, at every few paces for -three leagues impeded their progress. - -During the march we passed near the bridges of Sunbilla, Yansi, and -Lazaca, which cross to the left bank of the river, where some Spanish -sentinels were posted on the cliffs, who called out to us, "_miren -ustedes, miren los Franceses_," and on casting our eyes upwards, we -observed three of the enemy's _chasseurs à cheval_, looking down on us -as if from the clouds. Part of the division had been already detached, -for the purpose of keeping a look out up the narrow road to the right -leading to the heights of Echalar. Just before we reached the mouth of -this contracted defile, a buzz from the head of the column proclaimed -the enemy's infantry to be at hand, and the musketry had no sooner -commenced, than an officer, who had been amusing himself by the perusal -of a volume of _Gil Blas_, hastily placed it under the breast of his -grey pelisse: almost at the same instant a musket ball buried itself -in the middle of the book, and displaced him from his horse, without -inflicting any further injury; it is a curious fact, that the exact -pattern of the silk braiding of the pelisse[54] was indented in the -leaden bullet. - -Our front being speedily cleared of the enemy's skirmishers, the firing -ceased, and we entered a pleasant valley, within half a mile of Bera, -which on this road is the frontier town of Spain, and is situated at -an elbow, on the right bank of the Bidassoa: it has a good church with -a lofty steeple, and consists of one long straggling street, a quarter -of a mile in length, and immediately at the foot of the mountain de -Comissari, over which a steep road, three yards broad, crosses the -summit, which is called the _puérta de Bera_, and leads N.N.E. to St. -Jean de Luz, in France; two other roads, if they may be so designated, -branch off right and left from Bera, the first running easterly along -the valley, (parallel with a small rivulet which empties itself into -the Bidassoa), and passes between the great rock of La Rhune and the -opposite mountain of St. Bernard, to St. Barbe and Sarré, into France; -at this point the rugged defile is very narrow, and almost causes a -complete _break or separation_ in the western Pyrenees: the other road -from Bera runs across the Bidassoa, over a narrow stone bridge, four -hundred yards from the town, to Salines, thence branching off through -gloomy forests and over steep mountains to Oyarzun, Passages, and Saint -Sebastian. - -From Salines there is also a narrow rugged pathway, which traverses -N.N.W. by the winding current, on the left bank of the Bidassoa; it is -intersected with loose stones, and in many places ascends the steep and -difficult acclivities over the naked rock, and finally enters the great -road beyond Irun, which leads across the Bidassoa (where the enemy had -broken down the bridge) into France, thence passing over the river -Nivelle to St. Jean de Luz, and on to Bayonne, a distance of about -twenty-four miles from Irun, which is the frontier town of Spain by -that route. - -The right of the enemy immediately opposed to us rested on a nearly -perpendicular rock, at an elbow of the Bidassoa, and overlooking the -small market place of Bera, so much so, that, if inclined, they might -have smashed the roofs of the houses, at the west end of the town, by -rolling down upon them huge fragments of rock. This post was decorated -with a variety of fancy flags, or strips of cloth, of various colours, -tied at the top of long poles while groups of French tirailleurs, who -encircled them, sounded their small shrill trumpets, _and jocosely -invited us to the attack_. - -Their centre or reserve, composed of black columns, crowned the heights -on each side of the _Puerta de Bera_, and also the wooded heights -extending to the base of the rock of La Rhune, on which their left was -stationed in an old ruin. - -The ground having been fully examined, and the picquets properly -placed, we re-entered the mouth of the pass, and, having cut down two -or three small fields of Indian corn, and stored it up as provender -for the animals, we encamped on the stubble close to the river. The -day was fine, but during the night the rain descended in torrents, and -continued to fall so heavily for two days, as to swamp the ground on -which our tents were pitched, and it was with the utmost exertion that -we could keep them upright, owing to the frequent gusts of wind tearing -the pegs out of the liquid mud. In these damp and chilly regions the -tents proved of incalculable service to the army. The weather again -clearing, our first brigade ascended the bare heights of Santa Barbara, -the second brigade occupied a rising ground to protect the entrance -of the defile leading to St. Estevan, and the picquets were pushed -into the town of Bera, (within half a stone's throw and beneath those -of the enemy), and into the farm houses in the valley, enclosed by -orchards.[55] - -The stupendous and lofty chain of the western Pyrenees being now taking -up for the purpose of covering Pampeluna and St. Sebastian, the second -division occupied the various rugged paths and passes winding Up the -steep sides of the mountains near Roncesvalles and Maya; the seventh -division those of Echalar; the light division the heights of Santa -Barbara, and the road leading to St. Estevan, opposite to Bera; and the -first division and Spaniards guarding the left bank of the Bidassoa -to the sea-coast. The latter troops helped to block up the numerous -_gaps_, all along the crest of the position, such as mountain paths, -goat tracts, and dried water-courses, as well as the numerous fords -across the Bidassoa. This extended position is about thirty-eight miles -in extent, as the crow flies, running north west from Roncesvalles -to the town of Fontarabia, (which is situated near the mouth of -the Bidassoa, where this river empties itself into the sea,) but -necessarily following the rugged and zigzag flinty roads, along the -winding or crooked valleys, or over difficult mountains, intersected -with deep glens, chasms, craggy defiles, tremendous precipices, and -through almost impenetrable forests. The distance may be fairly -calculated at sixty miles for troops to march from right to left. - -On the 13th, the Duke of Dalmatia came from the north for the -purpose of taking the command of the French army. The 15th being the -anniversary of Napoleon's birth-day, the enemy at night illuminated -their bivouac, by ingeniously festooning the branches of the trees with -thousands of paper lamps, which produced a very bright glare, and of -course presented a very novel appearance. - -Four days after this, the fifth division began to dig the trenches at -St. Sebastian, for the purpose of erecting batteries to batter _en -brêche_. The third and fourth divisions, which had been kept in the -neighbourhood of Pampeluna in reserve, and also to assist the Spaniards -in drawing a line of circumvallation round that place, for the purpose -of hemming in and starving the garrison into a surrender, now moved -forward (leaving a Spanish corps to guard the lines); the former went -to Olacque, and the latter to Biscarret; the sixth division was at -St. Estevan: _these three divisions being the reserve_, and ready to -succour at those points where their assistance might be required. The -cavalry and artillery were cantoned in rear of the centre and left of -the whole army. - -One evening, while reclining on the parched and sun-burnt turf at -the tent door, our milch goat nibbling particles of hard biscuit out -of my hand, on looking around, I was much struck with the beauty of -the scenery; the azure sky was reddened and glowing with a variety of -brilliant tints, reflected from the glare of the setting sun, whose -bright rays glided the rugged peaks of the towering and great bulging -mountains which every where inclosed us. A long line of grey-coated -French sentinels lined the opposite ridge, and one of their bands was -playing a lively French air. In the valley below us, the little active -Basque boys and girls were pelting each other with apples,[56] between -the hostile armies, while the straggling and half-starved Spanish -soldiers (who dared not pluck the fruit) pretending to enjoy the sport, -but in reality were picking up the apples, and carefully depositing -them in their small forage bags. In the back ground sat our tanned and -veteran batman,[57] employed in mending a pack-saddle, after a long -day's forage, and casting an eye of affection towards his animals, -which were tied round a stake, feeding, with ears turned back, on some -fresh heads of Indian corn. In the meanwhile my messmate was conversing -with, and drawing a caricature of, a dowdy woman,[58] (from the -Asturias,) loaded with an oblong basket of fresh butter, with her arms -akimbo, and her nut-brown knuckles resting on hips which supported no -less than four short coarse woollen petticoats; from underneath these -branched out a pair of straddling legs, of enormous circumference, the -feet being wrapped in brown hairy skins, by way of sandals. In this -position of things my contemplative mood was all at once interrupted -by an officer of the _rifle corps_ riding up, who, with a mysterious -air, whispered me, by way of a profound secret, that he had become -acquainted with a Spanish family, residing in the town of Bera, and -offered to introduce me, provided I would agree to limit my attentions -to the eldest daughter, _Maria Pepa_, who, he acknowledged, was endowed -with very ordinary attractions, whereas her sister, _Ventura_, of -seventeen, possessed charms of a far superior description. As a matter -of course, not wishing to throw any impediments in the way of so -liberal an offer, I readily acquiesced in the proposal, and forthwith -accompanied him to the _destined_ Casa, for as such I may justly -nominate it, as I may affirm that this introduction was subsequently -the means of the life of a wounded brother officer being preserved, -owing to the kind attention of its inmates, who watched over his -mattress night and day, until he was out of danger: his hurt in fact -was so severe, that when a doctor was asked how he found the patient, he -replied. "Pretty well, but no man can ever recover from such a wound." - -On alighting from our horses we entered the house, and having ascended -the staircase, we found _el Padre, la Madre, y las dos hijas_ seated in -a spacious apartment, with the casements open, and a French sentinel, -who was posted on a projecting grey rock, so thoroughly overlooking the -house, that we could almost fancy he could overhear the lamentations -of the anxious parents, who, devoutly crossing themselves, prayed that -the siege of St. Sebastian might be speedily brought to a conclusion, -to enable them to return to their house at that place, and secure the -valuable plate and property, which they had been forced to abandon in -great haste, to escape being confined in that town during the siege. -Having passed some hours with them in a very agreeable manner, we took -our departure, with a promise of shortly renewing our visit. - -The left and main body of the French army, being now concentrated, -formed a line at the foot of the Pyrenees, in the vicinity of Forage -and St. Jean Pied de Port, in France, with its right wing occupying the -mountains from the Rock of la Rhune to Bera, thence by the right of -the Bidassoa to Andaye, and flanked by the Bay of Biscay. This ridge -immediately covers the country in front of St. Jean de Luz and Bayonne. - -Preparatorily to offensive movements, the French marshal issued a -flaming proclamation to his troops, in which he reminded them that -the standards of Britain waved aloft, and that her army, from the -summits of the Pyrenees, proudly looked down on the fertile fields of -France,—an evil which he attributed to the want of decision in the -late French commanders. "Let us then," said the Marshal, "wipe off the -stain from our faded laurels, by chasing the English beyond Vittoria, -and there celebrate another triumph, to add to the many victories which -have so often decorated your brows, in all parts of Spain, _and on many -a hard-fought day_." - -[Footnote 51: Lieut.-Colonel Ross of the Horse Artillery, as usual, -commanded this troop.] - -[Footnote 52: There he gained information of our movements, which -forced him to follow the right bank of the Ebro, until he reached -Saragossa, where, crossing the river, and leaving a small garrison -behind, he moved towards the pass of Jaca, and entering France on the -1st of July, he at last succeeded, after a round-about march, with the -loss of the greater part of his _matériel_, in forming a junction with -the French army.] - -[Footnote 53: There was a great scarcity of wood in the neighbourhood -of this place, and as the third division followed ours, Sir Thomas -Picton cast his eye on a pile ready cut, and, as soon as he had -dismissed his division, sent a regular party, with a _val_, to secure -it, when, lo! it had all vanished!] - -[Footnote 54: Many of the officers of our corps wore red and grey -pelisses, similar to those of the Hussars. The bullet which I have -described was afterwards shown as a curiosity, and I examined it -myself; the silk braiding had been carried into the compressed leaves -of the book, and remained twisted tight round the ball.] - -[Footnote 55: These produce an abundance of small tart apples.] - -[Footnote 56: This was a usual pastime among them, throughout the -mountains, which abounded with vast quantities of apple trees. One -day another officer and myself were enjoying a rural walk, when we -met two of our friends, whom for amusement we pelted with apples, and -drove them at full speed out of the orchard. All of a sudden, we were -assailed by a number of the Basque boys, led on by a girl, who had -witnessed our sport at a distance, and, although we piqued ourselves on -being pretty good throwers, we found it a difficult matter to contend -with them, from their dexterity in dealing out such irritating blows -on our faces and legs; until, being ashamed to ask for quarter of -such diminutive and laughing antagonists, we made a last effort, and -succeeded in hitting one of their leaders on the bare heel, when they -all ran away, to our exceeding satisfaction. My companion had been a -Cadet at the Royal Military College at Marlow, and declared that he had -never experienced a warmer rencontre in his more juvenile affrays at -that place.] - -[Footnote 57: The batmen of the army were hard-working and privileged -characters, who, after unloading at the end of harassing marches were -obliged to go a great distance in search of forage, and armed with a -sickle ready to cut down even rushes, or any thing they could lay their -hands upon, for their famished animals. If all happened to be right, -after a long day's journey when questioned by the anxious officers (no -matter of what rank), they would negligently turn away, and scarcely -give any answer; but if one of their horses or mules happened to be -lame or suffering from a sore back, or had cast a shoe, they would -fret, fume, curse, swear, throw the ropes about, and give such a -catalogue of evils, as to terrify the master with the idea that all was -going to rack and ruin.] - -[Footnote 58: These hardy women are in the habit, thus heavily loaded, -of walking thirty or forty miles a day.] - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - Offensive operations of the Duke of Dalmatia—Partial retrogression - of the British—Ill success in the storming of the breaches at St. - Sebastian—Movements of the various divisions—Great extent of - the British line along the Pyrenees—Interesting domestic scene - attending the departure of the Author's Division from the town - of Bera—Battle of Pampeluna—Embarrasing situation of the light - division through an accidental separation from the army—Successes - obtained over the French, and their consequent retreat—Active - movements, and capture of the enemy's baggage—A trait of - character—Continued advantages gained over the French, who are - driven beyond the Pyrenees. - - -The Duke of Dalmatia, on the 25th of July, assaulted the passes in -the neighbourhood of Roncesvalles,[59] and the Count d'Erlon that of -Aretesque, four miles in front of Maya. The result of this day's combat -obliged Generals Cole, Byng, and the Spanish General Morillo, to fall -back from Roncesvalles; owing to which retrograde, the British army -were taken in reverse. The fifth division, at daybreak, had stormed -the breaches of St. Sebastian without success; two thousand men had -fallen, or were made prisoners, at the various points of contest; and -General Hill fell back, during the night, from the pass of Maya. So -far every thing seemed propitious to the views of the French marshal. -Under all these circumstances, General Campbell, (who was stationed -with a Portuguese brigade at the pass of Los Alduides,) finding his -flanks laid bare, retired from that post, and, during the 26th, formed -a junction with General Picton, who, by a flank movement to the right, -had marched from Olacque to Lizoain, for the purpose of succouring the -troops falling back from Roncesvalles. - -During these operations, General Hill had taken up a strong position at -Irrueta, sixteen miles from the pass of Aretesque, where he opposed, -for the time being, the farther progress of the Count d'Erlon. This -position covered the flank of General Picton's column, retrograding -from Zubiri, and prevented the Count d'Erlon from uniting with the -Duke of Dalmatia; and also enabled the sixth division to march direct -to the rear from San Estevan, and to unite at the well-arranged -point _d'appui_, five miles in front of Pampeluna, where, on the -27th, the general-in-chief joined those troops which had retired from -Zubiri, under the command of Generals Picton, Cole, Byng, Campbell, -and Morillo, and who were now drawn up on a strong ridge in front of -Pampeluna, and flanked by the rivers Arga and Lanz. General Picton was -in a manner thrown back on the left of the Arga, in front of Olaz, -and supported by General Cotton, with the cavalry in reserve, for the -purpose of preventing the enemy from taking the right of the army in -reverse by the road from Zubiri. The enemy, who had followed the march -of the troops by that road, had no sooner arrived opposite the third -division, than by an oblique prolongation to their right, they began -to extend their line across the front of the General-in-chief, under -a fire of small-arms,—by which manœuvre they succeeded in cutting -off General Hill's retreat by the Maya road, running through Ortiz; -he, therefore, having passed through Lanz, hedged off diagonally in -a westerly direction, and, by an oblique march, formed a junction -with the seventh division (from St. Estevan) at Lizasso, thence to -co-operate, if possible, with the left of the General-in-chief, -whose position in front of Pampeluna was about eighteen miles from -that place. During these various movements, General Graham, with -the first and fifth divisions, and a corps of Spaniards, remained -stationary on the left bank of the Bidassoa, for the double purpose -of covering St. Sebastian, (the siege of that place was now converted -into a blockade, and the battering train embarked at the port of los -Passages,) and watching General Villate. The latter lined the opposite -bank of the river, to be in readiness to assume the offensive, for the -purpose of raising the siege of St. Sebastian, or hanging on General -Graham's rear, in the event of the Duke of Dalmatia gaining a victory -at Pampeluna, or succeeding in cutting off in detail the various -divisions of the British army, now thrown into echelon, and extending -from the banks of the Bidassoa, in front of Irun, to seven miles in -an easterly direction beyond Pampeluna; a distance of at least sixty -miles for the army to unite to either flank, (between two fortresses, -whose ramparts were garnished with the cannon and small-arms of the -enemy,) on an irregular quarter circle: amid multifarious barren rocks, -towering mountains, and extensive forests, over whose inhospitable -regions it was necessary, amongst other things, to convey provisions, -ammunition, and biscuit bags, for the daily consumption of the -moveable divisions,—an operation attended with great difficulty under -such circumstances. - -Although the right of the army had been retiring for two days, the -light division still tranquilly remained unmolested in front of Bera; -but on the morning of the 27th, on finding that the seventh division -had quitted the heights of Echalar, and uncovered our right flank, the -first brigade quietly descended from the heights of Santa Barbara, -and the whole division concentrated behind the defile on the road to -Lazaca, the picquets being left to mask this movement, and form the -rear-guard. As soon as the division had got clear off, the picquets -evacuated the farm-houses in succession from the right; and lastly, -at ten o'clock, A. M., quitted the town of Bera within pistol-shot of -the enemy's sentinels, who pretended not to notice this retrograde, -probably being apprehensive of bringing on an action without being -able at this point to display a sufficient force to assume offensive -movements, and also conjecturing that the division might meet with -a reception little anticipated, on reaching the neighbourhood of -Pampeluna. The Duke of Dalmatia, at this moment, was still pursuing the -troops from Roncesvalles and Zubiri, and actually within a few hours -of the vicinity of Pampeluna, _two days' march behind the second and -seventh divisions, and three in rear of the light division_, and even -_threatening to intercept the sixth division_ from St. Estevan. - -As I was left with the picquets at Bera, I had a good opportunity -of witnessing the _sang froid_ of the French outposts. They made -no forward movement, and as I was loitering behind, within a short -distance of the bridge of Lazaca, over which the troops had crossed to -the left bank of the Bidassoa, I observed the Spanish family, (with -whom I had recently become acquainted,) with rapid strides trudging -along the flinty road, having rushed from their only dwelling through -fear of the French, the instant they perceived the sentries retiring -from their posts. They now presented real objects of commiseration, -clad in thin shoes and silk stockings; the glossy ringlets were blown -from off the forehead of _la Señorita Ventura_, and a tear from her -dark blue eye, (shaded with raven eye-lashes), rolled down her flushed -cheek, into the prettiest pouting lips to be imagined; a _mantilla_ -loosely hung across her arm, fluttering in the breeze, and a black -silk dress, hanging in graceful folds around her delicate form, gave -her, with all her troubles, a most enchanting appearance. _El Padre_ -accepted the offer of my horse, and, sticking his short legs into -the stirrup leathers, composedly smoked a cigar. The mother took -my arm, the other I offered to _Ventura_, who smilingly declined, -saying, "It is not the fashion for _las Señoritas_ to take the arm of -_los Caballeros_," but politely offered her hand. While crossing the -bridge, "Here," said the little heroine, "why do you not call back -_los soldados_, and tell them to _tirár las bálas a este puénte_?" I -endeavoured to explain that our flank was turned, and all the grand -manœuvres of an army; little to her satisfaction, for she could not -comprehend any other than the front attack. - -On entering the town, the family stopped at a large stone mansion of a -relation, where they intended to take up their abode for the present: -the parents urged my departure, through fear that I might fall into the -hands of the enemy. I then took my farewell of them, (as I thought, for -the last time), and galloping through the town, soon came within sight -of the division, threading its march up a steep defile, enclosed on all -sides by an extensive forest. Towards evening we encamped, one league -and a half W. N. W. of San Estevan, on the mountain of Santa Cruz, from -whence we still commanded a view of the French bivouac. Here we halted -during the night. - -On the following day, the battle of Pampeluna took place thirty -miles in our rear, but, being entangled amongst the mountains, we did -not hear of the event until three days afterwards. The combat began -in a singular manner: the sixth division, under Gen. Pack, while on -its march over a rough country, intersected by stone walls, within a -few miles of Pampeluna, suddenly encountered the grey-coated French -columns in full march, debouching from behind the village of Sauroren -for the purpose of outflanking the left of the fourth division. The -consequence of these two hostile bodies clashing was, that the enemy's -van were driven back by a hot fire of musketry. The French, being thus -foiled in this manœuvre, turned their grand efforts against the front -of the heights on which the fourth division was stationed, commanded by -Sir L. Cole. The valour of the red regiments shone transcendant, and -the Marquis of Wellington repeatedly thanked the various corps, while -they were recovering breath to renew fresh efforts with the bayonet, in -driving the enemy headlong from the crest of the rugged heights; thus -forcing them, after a most sanguinary and furious contest, to desist -from farther offensive movements on that position. - -The General-in-chief could only collect, at the end of three days, -two brigades of the second division, General Morillo's, and part of -the Count d'Abisbal's Spaniards, and the _three reserve divisions_, -to oppose the Duke of Dalmatia; which clearly demonstrates the great -difficulty of occupying such a vast and rugged range of country. The -_first_, _second_, _fifth_, _seventh_, and _light divisions_, were -too far distant to join in the action of the 28th; and even the third -division, only a few miles to the right of the field of action, could -not take part in it, as the enemy had a corps of observation opposite -General Picton, backed by a numerous train of artillery and a large -body of cavalry, in readiness to engage him, should the _sixth_ and -_fourth_ divisions lose the day. - -The light division continued in position at Santa Cruz during the -whole of the 28th, having completely lost all trace of the army; and, -during these doubtful conjectures, at sunset we began to descend a -rugged pass, leading W.S.W. near Zubieta, to endeavour to cut in upon -the high road between Pampeluna and Tolosa, as it was impossible to -know whether General Graham, by this time, was not even beyond the -latter town. To add to our difficulties, the night set in so extremely -dark that the soldiers could no longer see each other, and began to -tumble about in all directions; some became stationary on shelvings -of rocks, or so enveloped in the thicket, that they could no longer -extricate themselves from the trees and underwood. The rocks and the -forest resounded with many voices, while here and there a small fire -was kindled and flared up, as if lighted in the clouds by some magic -hand. For myself, I at length became so exhausted and out of temper, at -the toil of lugging along my unwilling steed, that in a fit of despair -I mounted, and keeping a tight rein, permitted the animal to pick its -own steps. The branches of the trees so continually twisted round my -head that I expected every minute to find myself suspended; at last the -trusty horse made a dead stop, having emerged from the forest into a -small hamlet, where I encountered a few harrassed soldiers, enquiring -of each other where the main body had vanished to, or what direction -to pursue, for they no longer knew whether they were advancing or -retiring; and, without farther ceremony, they began to batter with -the butt-end of their firelocks the strong and massive doors of the -slumbering inhabitants, demanding, with stentorian voices, if any -troops had passed that way?—a difficult question for people to answer -who had just risen from their mattresses, and now timidly opened their -doors, in considerable alarm, being apprehensive that we had come at -midnight hour to rob and plunder them. At last a resolute Spaniard[60] -threw a large capote over his shoulder, and, stepping forward, said, -"_Señores Caballeros_, only inform me whence you came or whither you -are going, and I will be your guide;" but we were so bewildered, owing -to the crooked path, and the intricate windings of the forest, that no -one could take upon himself to point towards the direction of the bleak -mountain we had come from, or the name of the place we were going to; -as a matter of expediency, therefore, we patiently awaited the coming -morn.[61] - -At daybreak, a scene of complete confusion presented itself, the -greater part of the division being scattered over the face of a steep -and woody mountain, and positively not half a league from whence they -had started on the previous evening. As soon as the various corps had -grouped together, they followed the only road in sight, and soon met -a mounted officer, who directed them towards Leyza: near that place -one-half of the division were already bivouacked, having reached the -valley before the pitchy darkness had set in. It was now the third -day since we had retired from Bera, and Gen. Baron C. Alten became so -uneasy, that he ordered some of the best-mounted regimental officers -to go in various directions to ascertain, if possible, some tidings of -the army, with which he had had no communication for three days, being -now isolated amongst the wilds of the Pyrenees, on the left of the -river Bidassoa, half-way between St. Sebastian and Pampeluna. At six -o'clock the same evening we again broke up and marched two leagues in -the direction of Arressa, and then bivouacked in a wood, with an order -not to light fires, thus to prevent any of the enemy's scouts or spies -ascertaining our route. Two hours after nightfall, the troops were -again put in motion, and I was left in the forest, with directions to -continue there all night, to bring off in the morning any baggage or -stragglers that might happen to go astray. At daylight on the 30th, -having collected together a few women (who dared not again encounter -another toilsome night-march along the verge of precipices); it was -a droll sight to see this noisy group defiling from the forest, many -dressed in soldiers' jackets, battered bonnets, and faded ribbons, -with dishevelled locks hanging over their weather-beaten features, as -they drove along their lazy _borricas_ with a thick stick; and, when -the terrific blows laid on ceased to produce the desired effect, they -squalled with sheer vexation, lest they might be overtaken, and fall -into the hands of the enemy's light horse. Having travelled for two -hours as a sort of guide to these poor women, I perceived an officer -at some distance in front, and, on my overtaking him, he expressed the -greatest joy at seeing me, and declared that he had been wandering for -some hours in the most agitated state of mind, not knowing whither to -bend his footsteps. The division had drawn up again during the night, -and he having, lain down on the flank of the column, had fallen into -a profound slumber, out of which he had awoke at broad daylight, with -the rays of the sun shining full on his face; and, when somewhat -recovering his bewildered recollections, he wildly gazed around for -the column which had vanished, and springing on his feet, hallooed -with all his might; but no answer was returned, a solemn silence -reigned around, save the fluttering of the birds amongst the luxuriant -foliage of the trees; the morning dew no longer bespangled the sod, -nor did the print of a single footstep remain to guide his course: at -length, in a fit of desperation, he hastily tore a passage through the -thicket, and luckily reached the road, and at random sauntered along -in no very pleasant mood, until I overtook him.—Soon after this we -heard to our left sounds like those of distant thunder; as the sky was -perfectly serene, we concluded that the noise must be caused by a heavy -firing of musketry.[62] On reaching Arriba, we found most of the doors -closed; however, we succeeded in purchasing a loaf, and then seated -ourselves on the margin of a clear mountain-stream, where we devoured -it, and forthwith solaced ourselves with a hearty draught of the -refreshing beverage. This stream looked so inviting, that we threw off -our clothes and plunged into it. Notwithstanding the cooling effects -of the bathe, the feet of my companion were so much swollen, owing to -previous fatigue, that with all his tugging he could not pull on his -boots again; fortunately mine were old and easy, so we readily effected -an exchange, and then followed the road across a high mountain, from -whose summit we saw the division bivouacked to the right of the broad -and well-paved road (near Lecumberri) which leads from Pampeluna to -Tolosa; from this position we could march to either of those places, -being half-way between them; here the division awaited the return of -its scouts the whole of the following day. - -The French army being completely worn out, and having suffered terribly -in killed and wounded, continued to retreat during the 31st, followed -by the five victorious divisions of the British in three columns, by -the roads of Roncesvalles, Maya, and Donna Maria. On the evening of -the same day, although obliquely to the rear of the pursuing columns, -we received orders, if possible, to overtake the enemy, and attack -them wherever they might be found. Accordingly, in the middle of the -night we got under arms and began our march. Towards the middle of the -following day, (the 1st of August), having already marched twenty-four -miles, we descended into a deep valley between Ituren and Elgoriaga, -where the division drew up in column to reconnoitre the right flank of -the enemy, who were still hovering in the neighbourhood of San Estevan. -After an hour's halt, we continued our movement on the left of the -Bidassoa, and for three hours ascended, or rather clambered, the rugged -asperities of a prodigious mountain, the by-path of which was composed -of overlapping slabs of rock, or stepping-stones. At four o'clock in -the afternoon a flying dust was descried, glistening with the bright -and vivid flashes of small-arms, to the right of the Bidassoa, and -in the valley of Lerin. A cry was instantly set up "the enemy!" the -worn soldiers raised their bent heads covered with dust and sweat: -we had nearly reached the summit of this tremendous mountain, but -nature was quite exhausted; many of the soldiers lagged behind, having -accomplished more than thirty miles over the rocky roads intersected -with loose stones; many fell heavily on the naked rocks, frothing at -the mouth, black in the face, and struggling in their last agonies; -whilst others, unable to drag one leg after the other, leaned on the -muzzles of their firelocks, looking pictures of despair, and muttering, -in disconsolate accents, that they had never "fallen out" before. - -The sun was shining in full vigour, but fortunately numerous clear -streams bubbled from the cavities and fissures of the rocks, -(which were clothed in many places by beautiful evergreens,) and -allayed the burning thirst of the fainting men. The hard work of an -infantry soldier at times is beyond all calculation, and death, by -the road-side, frequently puts an end to his sufferings,—but what -description can equal such an exit? - -At seven in the evening, the division having been in march nineteen -hours, and accomplished nearly forty miles, it was found absolutely -necessary to halt the second brigade near Aranaz, as a rallying -point. Being now parallel with the enemy, and some hours a-head of -the vanguard leading the left column of our army, our right brigade -still hobbled onwards; at twilight we overlooked the enemy within -stone's throw, and from the summit of a tremendous precipice: the -river separated us; but the French were wedged in a narrow road, with -inaccessible rocks enclosing them on one side, and the river on the -other: such confusion took place amongst them as is impossible to -describe; the wounded were thrown down during the rush, and trampled -upon, and their cavalry drew their swords, and endeavoured to charge -up the pass of Echalar, (the only opening on their right flank,) but -the infantry beat them back, and several of them, horses and all, were -precipitated into the river; others fired vertically at us, whilst the -wounded called out for quarter, and pointed to their numerous soldiers, -supported on the shoulders of their comrades in bearers, composed of -branches of trees, to which were suspended great coats, clotted with -gore, or blood-stained sheets, taken from various habitations, to carry -off their wounded, on whom we did not fire. - -Our attention was soon called from this melancholy spectacle to -support the rifle corps,[63] while they repulsed the enemy, who had -crossed over the bridge of Yanzi to attack us, to enable the tail of -their column to get off. Night closed on us, and the firing ceased; -but, owing to our seizing the bridge, we cut off the whole of their -baggage, which fell into the hands of the column of our army following -from St. Estevan. - -In this way ended the most trying day's march I ever remember. On the -following morning, soon after daylight, we filed across the bridge of -Yanzi, held by our pickets, and detached a small force to guard the -road towards Echalar, until the troops came up from the direction of -San Estevan, which had hung on the enemy's rear for the then three -previous days. Continuing our march, we once more debouched by the -defile opposite Bera, where the French sentinels were still posted, -as if rooted to the rocks on which they were stationed the day we had -taken our departure. - -As soon as the second brigade came up, we again ascended the heights -of Santa Barbara, where we found a French corporal, with a broken -leg, his head resting on a hairy knapsack, and supported in the arms -of a comrade, who generously remained behind to protect the life of -his friend from the _cuchillo_ of the Spaniards. As soon as he had -delivered him to the care of the English soldiers, he embraced the -corporal, saying, "_Au revoir, bon camarade Anglais_," and, throwing -his musket over his shoulder, with the butt-end _en l'air_, he -descended the mountain to rejoin the French army on the opposite -range of heights. Of course, no one offered to molest this _simple -soldat_, who easily effected his escape. As our picquets could not -enter the valley until our right was cleared, and the enemy pushed -from the mountain of Echalar, as soon as another division attacked -those heights, the 1st rifles moved on and clambered the mountain of -St. Bernard, supported by five companies of our regiment. The soldiers -had been for two days without any sustenance, and were so weak that -they could hardly stand; however, an excellent commissary had managed -to overtake us, and hastily served out half-a-pound of biscuit to each -individual, which the soldiery devoured while in the act of priming and -loading as they moved on to the attack. - -The summit of the mountain was wrapped in a dense fog: an invisible -firing commenced, and it was impossible to ascertain which party was -getting the best of the fight; the combatants were literally contending -in the clouds. When half-way up the side of the mountain, we found a -soldier of the rifles lying on his face, and bleeding so copiously -that his havresack was dyed in blood: we turned him over, and, being -somewhat recovered before he was carried off, he told us, in broken -monosyllables, that three Frenchmen had mistaken him for a Portuguese, -laid hold of him, thrust a bayonet through his thigh, smashed the stock -of his rifle, and then pushed him from off the ledge of the precipice -under which we discovered him. - -The second French light infantry were dislodged, before twilight, from -the top of this mountain; but the sparkling flashes of small-arms -continued after dark to wreath, with a crown of fire, the summits of -the various rocks about Echalar. - -Thus, after a series of difficult marches, amongst a chaotic jumble of -sterile mountains, the enemy were totally discomfited, with an enormous -loss, by a series of the most extraordinary and brilliant efforts that -had been made during the Peninsular War. For three days the French -indeed had the vantage ground, owing to their superiority of numbers at -a given point; but on the fourth day, the same divisions which had so -heroically fought while falling back, sustained, with their backs to a -hostile fortress, (whence the enemy sortied during the battle,) a most -desperate assault made by the Duke of Dalmatia, over whom the Marquis -of Wellington gained a memorable victory, and ceased not in turn to -pursue the French marshal, until he was glad to seek shelter from -whence he came. The standards of Britain again waved aloft, and flapped -in the gentle breeze over the fertile fields of France. - -[Footnote 59: Pampeluna is about thirty-five miles from the extremity -of the principal pass at Roncesvalles, forty-five from that of -Aretesque, in front of Maya, and fifty miles from the pass of Bera; all -these points it was necessary to occupy on the right of the Bidassoa; -which clearly demonstrates the advantage the enemy possessed by -attacking principally at Roncesvalles.] - -[Footnote 60: It was a frequent custom, when in want of a guide, -to employ a peasant, who received a dollar at the end of his day's -journey. These _Pizanos_, being accustomed to pastoral lives, were -well acquainted with every inch of ground or by-path for leagues -around their habitations, as well as the various fords across rivers -and tributary streams, the depth of which depends on the season of the -year, or the quantity of rain that might happen to fall at uncertain -periods on these mountains.] - -[Footnote 61: On the 29th, at the end of four days' fighting, both -Marshals desisted from hostilities in front of Pampeluna. The French -employed themselves in edging off to their right to assist the Count -d'Erlon, who had followed the march of General Hill by Lanz. The -Marquis of Wellington, on the other hand, was drawing in the seventh -division to insure a communication with General Hill, and also watching -his adversary's movements, to take advantage of what might accrue on -the morrow.] - -[Footnote 62: This firing was near Lizasso, where the enemy endeavoured -to turn General Hill's left flank by the road to Buenzu, and while -the Count d'Erlon was striving to execute this movement, the light -division, unknowingly, were marching on his right flank: however, -the General-in-chief being still in position in front of Pampeluna, -finding that the Duke of Dalmatia had weakened his left and centre, to -support the Count d'Erlon, immediately countermanœuvred, and attacked -the right of his opponent with the sixth and seventh divisions, under -Lord Dalhousie, and the left with the third division, and then pierced -the centre of the enemy with the fourth division and General Byng's -brigade of the second division, and thus before sunset pushed back -the enemy beyond Olacque. By this attack the left flank of the Count -d'Erlon became uncovered, which obliged him to fall back during the -night, towards the pass of Donna Maria, to avoid falling into the snare -originally intended for his adversary.] - -[Footnote 63: One of the first I saw wounded was Capt. Perceval, of the -rifle corps. "Well," said he, "I am a lucky fellow, with one arm maimed -and useless by my side from an old wound, and now unable to use the -other."] - - -END OF VOL. I. - - -LONDON: PRINTED BY G. SCHULZE, 13, POLAND STREET. - - - - - NAVAL AND MILITARY TALES, - LATELY PUBLISHED BY - MESSRS. COLBURN AND BENTLEY. - - -1. TALES OF A TAR. By one of the Authors of "The Naval Sketch Book." In -1 vol. post 8vo. - - CONTENTS:—The Breeze at Spithead—Jack a Biographer—Kind - Inquiries—Command O'Mind—Sailor Sal—Dreams at Sea—A Brush in - the Boats—A "Call" for the Cat. - - -2. SAILORS AND SAINTS. By the Authors of "The Naval Sketch Book." 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